From owner-glass Wed Apr  1 01:16:19 1998
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From: Yegnim <Yegnim@aol.com>
To: WhispyBlu@aol.com, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: testing
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 03:39:35 EST
Message-ID: <1998Apr1.83935.0>
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In response to Whispy Blu about shortage of bungi comments and all bungi
members who have not been on line during spring and summer:
It gets SLOW!  People are out gardening, doing family activities, etc.  The
mail tends to be at the slowest point on the weekend especially.  

However, I did receive more than 1 message yesterday, but not many.

Patrick, this is the best time of the year for the bios!  As long as you post
bios on the weekend, I can not see anyone squalking (sp.?) about them, even
increasing them from 2 to 3 per week.

Lenore
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From owner-glass Wed Apr  1 05:52:12 1998
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From: Ogeretla2 <Ogeretla2@aol.com>
To: GLASS@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Brand New & Improved...
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 08:32:42 EST
Message-ID: <1998Apr1.133242.0>
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I just found out and wanted to share this with you all...

A brand new FREE Windows 95 version of Glasseye: Internet Edition is now
available for download at 

http://www.dfly.com

This new version omits the necessity of opening each and every file to see
over 200 patterns now available for sale and free.  It takes about 5 minutes
to load the new browser feature, but the new browser allows for quick searches
by  shape, subject matter, artist, etc. Just click on the thumbnail view of a
pattern and see a larger version with option to view "properties" such as how
many pieces/sft of glass/inches of foil or lead. 

New easier ordering features make this a great new way to buy patterns and
enlarge them to your size in the convenience of your own home! AND 25 QUALITY
PATTERNS ARE FREE (most from CKE)!!  There are even more patterns for sale
than the previous version.

GO GET THIS GREAT NEW VERSION....WHY NOT?..IT'S FREE!!

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From owner-glass Wed Apr  1 07:55:00 1998
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From: Sheila <sheila_oh@yahoo.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: testing
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 05:36:41 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1998Mar31.213641.0>
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I only had 2 emails today  :(  Is everyone on vacation now???   If so
have a wonderful time!!!   If not....I am lost.....which isn't
unusual.....

Still Lurking in OH
Sheila








_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

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From owner-glass Wed Apr  1 09:31:22 1998
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From: "Kaye Sodt" <kaye@GSA-ORSP.CROWN.NWU.EDU>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Silence isn't Golden?
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 11:14:37 CST 6CDT
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Seems like it's feast or famine.  I thought about saying something 
provocative to stir folks up, but I doubt any of us is THAT desperate 
for e-mail.  So, how about something thought-provoking about glass 
:->?

We've done "favorite tool," "favorite glass....."

Hmmm.  How about "if I had a whole month to devote to stained glass 
for ME, I'd...(insert dream project/s here)?"

Personally, I'd spend some quality time learning to better use my 
Glass Eye software.  And some time ago I bought a pattern and the 
bevels for a large fushia window but just haven't been able to get 
around to it.  Taking a quick mental inventory, I also have a couple 
of panel lamps I want to make, a Worden lamp mold I got a "deal" on, 
an additional shape stepping stone mold for a brainstorm idea I want 
to try....ARGH!  (Bottom line--I gotta stop buying more stuff than I 
have time to complete.)

So, with a big chunk of spare time, what would you do?

Kaye


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From owner-glass Wed Apr  1 11:35:04 1998
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From: P D RUSS <PDRUSS@aol.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Silence isn't Golden?
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 14:00:13 EST
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In a message dated 98-04-01 12:33:22 EST, you write:

<< 
 Seems like it's feast or famine.  I thought about saying something 
 provocative to stir folks up, but I doubt any of us is THAT desperate 
 for e-mail.  So, how about something thought-provoking about glass 
 :->?
 
 We've done "favorite tool," "favorite glass....."
 
 Hmmm.  How about "if I had a whole month to devote to stained glass 
 for ME, I'd...(insert dream project/s here)?" >>



Ok, I'll bite. We are moving in a few days to a new house in a new state. I
want to make a fire place screen when I get there.

Any advice on contruction? I've never made anything that big. 

Dianne
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From owner-glass Wed Apr  1 13:14:18 1998
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X-Path: nwu.edu!alansing
From: Amy Lansing <alansing@nwu.edu>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Silence isn't Golden?
Date: Wed, 01 Apr 1998 14:27:22 -0600
Message-ID: <3.0.2.32.19980401142722.00a09cb8@merle.acns.nwu.edu>
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  Kaye, 
 
As one of my many projects you know of, I would really like to finally
start the 3 panel room divider (different types of clear glass & bevels). 

I can picture the oak frame and clean lines in my head.  I guess it will
stay "in my head" until AFTER I move to California.   

Oh well, back to my lamp.....

 
>>Seems like it's feast or famine.  I thought about saying something 
>>provocative to stir folks up, but I doubt any of us is THAT desperate 
>>for e-mail.  So, how about something thought-provoking about glass 
>>:->?
>>
>>We've done "favorite tool," "favorite glass....."
>>
>>Hmmm.  How about "if I had a whole month to devote to stained glass 
>>for ME, I'd...(insert dream project/s here)?"
>>
>>Personally, I'd spend some quality time learning to better use my 
>>Glass Eye software.  And some time ago I bought a pattern and the 
>>bevels for a large fushia window but just haven't been able to get 
>>around to it.  Taking a quick mental inventory, I also have a couple 
>>of panel lamps I want to make, a Worden lamp mold I got a "deal" on, 
>>an additional shape stepping stone mold for a brainstorm idea I want 
>>to try....ARGH!  (Bottom line--I gotta stop buying more stuff than I 
>>have time to complete.)
>>
>>So, with a big chunk of spare time, what would you do?
>>
>>Kaye

Amy Lansing
Deputy Project Coordinator
Psycho-Legal Studies
Northwestern University Medical School
710 N. Lake Shore Drive, Suite #900
Chicago, IL 60611

Office:  (312) 503-3500
FAX:     (312) 503-3535
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From owner-glass Wed Apr  1 13:31:20 1998
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X-Path: aries17.uwaterloo.ca!dmg
From: "Daniel M. German" <dmg@csg.uwaterloo.ca>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain;  charset=iso-8859-1
Subject: Just one more pattern
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 16:06:24 -0500
Message-ID: <199804012106.QAA05207@aries17.uwaterloo.ca>
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Hi SGers,

I have put a page with one of my own patterns. More to come as I have
time. A photo will be included in the future.

http://aries27.uwaterloo.ca:80/~dmg/glass/patterns/




--
Daniel M. German                  "When you have removed the impossible,
                                   whatever remains, however improbable,
   Arthur Conan Doyle ->           must be the truth."
http://csgwww.uwaterloo.ca/~dmg/home.html
dmg@csg.uwaterloo.ca

 
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From owner-glass Wed Apr  1 14:03:19 1998
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X-Path: mail.apple.com!karens
From: Karen Schroeder <karens@apple.com>
To: "Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>,
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: Home and Garden Show Advice
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 98 12:44:00 -0800
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On 3/27/98 7:16 AM Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo said:

>Is this an in-door or out-door show? This makes a
>difference in display techniques and booth set up.
>
It is an outdoor show. Our booth location is already set. Since I haven't 
seen it yet (and won't until the night before) I will try to bring along 
some lights, etc. in case it is dark or under a tree. Luckily the show is 
only 20 miles from home. So anything that seems to be missing during the 
set up can be taken along the days of the show.

Thanks,
Karen Schroeder
Hummingbird Designs

Windows 95: n.
32 bit extensions and a graphical shell for a 16 bit patch to an
8 bit operating system originally coded for a 4 bit microprocessor,
written by a 2 bit company, that can't stand 1 bit of competition.

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From owner-glass Wed Apr  1 14:46:15 1998
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From: Sue Reitmann <oddjob@scc.net>
To: "'Glasss Group'" <glass@bungi.com>
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Subject: Panel Lamp Question
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 15:52:51 -0600
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With help from my fellow bungians on the design I have now started the 
"wood duck" lamp. I am afraid it will be the lamp from he__. I enlarged the 
body of the worden mallard duck pattern and substituted a wood duck. 3 duck 
panels and 3 with rocks/water and grass/reed. Each panel measures  10 1/2 
 inches across the bottom.

I have made a lot of panel lamps but never one this large and have never 
made one with a "skirt". This lamp is to be a hanging type to be installed 
in a log home on a lake. Any tips on how to go about attaching it and the 
skirt or problems others have run into would be appreciated.

 Is any additional support ( running wire under the solder) needed? The 
pieces in the wood duck are far too small and too many for use of re-strip.
I will provide updates and level of frustration, as I go.
TIA
Sue Reitmann

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From owner-glass Wed Apr  1 16:08:22 1998
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From: Gloria & George <3hounds@usaor.net>
To: "'bungians'" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Silence is Golden
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 18:27:10 -0100
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 This was a nice "wish" topic to bring up.. I have many things that like =
everyone here, have even bought all the supplies for, but  am lacking =
that perfect piece of time..  I can  start with the violet panel, which =
I bought the wood frame for and the bevels, plus the "art" glass of that =
perfect purple ( and the colored copy sits in my office) ..  The =
terrerium, that would hang in my bathroom window,  that would keep, the =
"Wolf" cat from eating the leaves (don't worry, these are  safe edible =
cat plants) ,  the six garden stones that depict the Koi/lily pond, =
since the 6 dogs would not allow me to build the actual water garden..  =
But,  to my surprise, I will start to solder my bedroom lamp, which I =
designed and is a 6  panel, about 60 pieces per panel of hummingbirds =
with petunias in 1 continuous scene, that is to say that one panel flows =
into the other and no panel is alike..=20
So this is my list..
And Patrick, I hope to have my bios to you this weekend.
Take care, All
Gloria=20



   =20
                                                    =20
                                                 3hounds@usaor.net       =
=20
                                  
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From owner-glass Wed Apr  1 16:36:32 1998
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From: Family Account <shad@mail2.nai.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Not much mail/Glass Eye
Date: Wed, 01 Apr 1998 19:24:17 -0500
Message-ID: <1998Apr1.142417.0>
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Yes, I too was amazed by the lightness of the mail.  Then I remembered
that I think I said I'd tell people who learning Glass Eye went.  Guess
what -- I never touch it.  But my husband is busy taking all our
original patterns and putting them on Glass Eye.  It is amazing to watch
him whip through a pattern.  We have scanned our patterns and saved them
as bitmaps, so we can import them as background.  So here's a couple of
hints.
1.  Zoom in on a section so your can more easily follow the lines.  The
bigger the segments, the less difficult the fine hand movements
(especially if your mouse is not the best.)
2.  John likes to completely do one piece and then color it in.  He can
see where he is that way and can make sure the lines really meet.

I, on the other hand, am trying to learn Adobe Photoshop.  One of the
things I wanted to do was create an uncluttered picture of our
exhibit...get rid of people in the background, parts of neighboring
exhibits, etc.  (This year, everyone wants a picture of the exhibit!)
So I had to mark all that background stuff and replace it with
background color and found that I had to really zoom in, sometimes until
I could see the pixels!  But I could do even small spots this way.  This
is the really hard, tedious part.  Then I again selected all the same
parts (selected the single color parts), reversed the selection so the
exhibit was selected, and copied that selection to a new canvas.  That
made all the places that had been messy background now transparent.  I
created a new backgound layer and  and created a circular gardient of
mid-blue color to light blue color.  It's darkest in the middle right
and lightens out toward the edges.  Now...you want a picture of our
exhibit, I print it out!
But, boy, do I have so much to learn!  (I seriously fear I could be
developing a new addiction...)

Dorothy K

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From owner-glass Wed Apr  1 18:45:07 1998
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X-Path: compuserve.com!GreerStudios
From: "Michael J. Greer" <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: All <GLASS@BUNGI.COM>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Glass gossip
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 21:16:05 -0500
Message-ID: <1998Apr1.16165.0>
Precedence: bulk

Ran up to the wholesalers in Denver
this afternoon and learned a few =

things that might be of interest to
folks:

1.  Desag SA is history - the mouthblown
plant has been demolished.  GNA is still
available, though.

2.  The Yough stipple tank blew up, so if =

you like stipple, get it fast since it probably
won't be available for a while!

I don't know any of the details, so if anyone
else does, please share with the rest of us.

Best regards,

Dani Greer
Greer Gallery & Studios
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From owner-glass Wed Apr  1 19:11:53 1998
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From: CWWSLW <CWWSLW@aol.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Dream Project
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 21:49:10 EST
Message-ID: <1998Apr2.24910.0>
Precedence: bulk

Well,hmmm.. If I had the time. I would someday LOVE to do one of those round
top concrete patio tables with mosaic. I have LOTS of glass scarps and I
believe I could use most of these for that. And gee. why not do a matching
bird bath?
Susan
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From owner-glass Wed Apr  1 19:48:09 1998
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X-Path: aol.com!SGetty8396
From: SGetty8396 <SGetty8396@aol.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: from laurean
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 21:24:14 EST
Message-ID: <1998Apr2.22414.0>
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robin,
please call me collect at 712 724-6101
thanks, laurean

p.s.
laurean's modem is dead so she asked me to forward this message to you
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From owner-glass Wed Apr  1 20:15:41 1998
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X-Path: ComCAT.COM!suzy
From: "suzy@comcat.com" <bits@ComCAT.COM>
To: "All" <GLASS@BUNGI.COM>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: Glass gossip
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 98 22:47:09 -0500
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Dani wrote:>
>1.  Desag SA is history - the mouthblown
>plant has been demolished.  GNA is still
>available, though.
>
>2.  The Yough stipple tank blew up, so if =
>
>you like stipple, get it fast since it probably
>won't be available for a while!

Dani, please tell us this is an April Fool!

Suzanne
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From owner-glass Wed Apr  1 21:09:10 1998
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From: AATDJ <AATDJ@aol.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Hey, I'm hooked
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 23:42:33 EST
Message-ID: <1998Apr2.44233.0>
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Looking for patterns and tips.

Thanks,
Wendy
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From owner-glass Wed Apr  1 21:50:46 1998
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X-Path: gjr
From: gjr@bungi.com (Glenna Rand)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Stepping Stone
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 21:06:37 PST
Message-ID: <m0yKcD0-0000DkC@daver.bungi.com>
Precedence: bulk

Hi everyone,

Well just wanted to fill you in (pardon the pun) on how my first
stepping stone turned out.  I made a pattern 16" square on my Glass
Eye program and started cutting glass.  My mold arrived and I found
out my pattern was a bit too big for the mold...??  Apparently this 
Mosaic Art mold isn't the same as the Tiff. Gardens one.  I measured the
inside and it's 15 3/4".  I managed to jiggle things in a bit and made 
work.  The grout lines are alot narrower now but I think it looks okay.
I'll take some photos and get them upon the website soon.
One of 3 jewels slid abit,..I guess I didn't push it into
the sand well enough.  I will probably put another jewel over it.
I am happy with the diamond crete results too.  Very easy to work
with.  I think I like it so much I may just find a base and make a table
out of it!

Enjoy!



-- 
Glenna Rand
gjr@bungi.com
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From owner-glass Thu Apr  2 00:39:15 1998
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X-Path: magnet.mt!frank.g.mizzi
From: "Mizzi Frank at MITTS" <frank.g.mizzi@magnet.mt>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Putty
Date: Thu Apr  2 00:24:43 1998
Message-ID: <98Apr2.103507gmt+0100.19592@michelle.magnet.mt>
Precedence: bulk

Most of the work I do is using came.

A problem I just can't seem to get rid of is the drying out of my putty.

I keep it in a plastic bucket with a lid that snaps on so as to exclude air.

I DO NOT leave the bucket open for longer than I have to.

When I am finished I flatten the surface of the putty as much as possible and 
pour a small amount of white spirit over the top.

Unfortunately I find that the stuff at the bottom is ALWAYS rock hard and I must 
break off great chunks and knead them into the softer stuff.

Can I do anything else and is the addition of white spirit a problem??

Cheers

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From owner-glass Thu Apr  2 03:59:31 1998
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X-Path: citynet.net!zorprime
From: Zor Prime <zorprime@citynet.net>
To: "Daniel M. German" <dmg@csg.uwaterloo.ca>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Just one more pattern
Date: Thu, 02 Apr 1998 06:39:26 -0800
Message-ID: <1998Apr1.223926.0>
References: <<199804012106.QAA05207@aries17.uwaterloo.ca>>
Precedence: bulk

Daniel M. German wrote:
> 
> Hi SGers,
> 
> I have put a page with one of my own patterns. More to come as I have
> time. A photo will be included in the future.
> 

Daniel,

I checked out your vase pattern, and it's very nice. What software
program, if any, did you use to design with? Looking forward to the
photo.

Kathy
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From owner-glass Thu Apr  2 05:04:12 1998
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From: IMN2GLASS2 <IMN2GLASS2@aol.com>
To: gjr@bungi.com, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Stepping Stone
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 07:31:50 EST
Message-ID: <1998Apr2.123150.0>
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Congratulations, Glenna on your first Stone! Sounds great! can't wait to see
it...Judy
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From owner-glass Thu Apr  2 05:24:41 1998
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From: Richard LaVal <rlaval@sol.racsa.co.cr>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Subject: Gatewayed mail message
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 07:06:52 -0600 (CST)
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Precedence: bulk

Dear friends,
        Sorry I have been gone so long, between work pressures, and the
computor having breakdowns I haven't been on lately, and have a huge backlog
of messages to wade through..... and I must admit, it makes my heart sink to
realize that alot of those messages are yet another argument!  Among other
things we got another, bigger hard drive, so we were able to install windows
95  which I am not at all sure I like!  Having done this, all sorts of
things happened (bugs) which had to be worked out, and then my husband (the
worker outer) went on a field trip to Panama with his students and left me
without a printer, and with a mouse which freezes up every little bit....
having said all this, I will answer the question someone posed.

        I guess my next project for the house, would be to make a second
window for my husband.  We have some narrow 9"? by 18"? windows lying
horizontally above some bigger windows, and I am replacing them with stained
glass panels.  The first on is a setting sun (one of the first panels I
did) the second is already designed, is a sunset with gulf view (we live in
the mountains) with bats flying through it (my husband's specialty is bats).
Recently I drug out my old watercolors to show someone, and saw a few that
might be translatable into glass, and that peaked my curiosity... I may drag
them out sometime again....

Well, that's all for now....Meg
 REMEMBER: "Bats bite bugs best!"
    =BF?=BF?=BF?=BF?=BF?=BF?=BF?=BF?=BF?=BF?=BF?=BF?=BF?=BF?=BF?
  Richard LaVal and Meg Wallace
               apdo. 24-5655
       Monteverde, Puntarenas
               COSTA RICA
              phone 645 5052

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From owner-glass Thu Apr  2 06:33:49 1998
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X-Path: aol.com!Margaret41
From: Margaret41 <Margaret41@aol.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Not much mail/Glass Eye
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 08:56:55 EST
Message-ID: <1998Apr2.135655.0>
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thanks for info/hints on Glass Eye and Adobe...I'm moving towards the Glass
Eye and would appreciate any other hints that you can share. Thanks. Margaret
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From owner-glass Thu Apr  2 07:39:33 1998
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From: "Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Spare Time (ha!)
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 10:05:42 -0500
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Message text written by "Kaye Sodt"
>So, with a big chunk of spare time, what would you do?<

I'ld develop the five new lampshades I designed well over
2 years ago which I've never found the time to do.

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles, P.O.Box 903, Skippack, PA 19474-0903
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From owner-glass Thu Apr  2 08:07:18 1998
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X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: AATDJ <AATDJ@aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Hey, I'm hooked
Date: Thu, 02 Apr 1998 09:38:48 -0500
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AATDJ wrote:
> 
> Looking for patterns and tips.
> 
> Thanks,
> Wendy
> ----
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well, you can find tips on my page, as for patterns, i think i have some
links on my links page...

---Mike Savad
http://www.geocities.com/paris/1141
-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
2-2-98 New Pages Added: 22 New Stained Glass Links, 7 New Projects Added
and My Updated Shop Photo's
----
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From owner-glass Thu Apr  2 08:46:00 1998
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From: "Heather Newman" <newman@det-freepress.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Adding rebar to old lead/zinc
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 11:14:05 +0000
Message-ID: <1998Apr2.11145.0>
Organization: Detroit Free Press
Precedence: bulk

I've got leaded glass doors in my house -- okay, I think they're 
lead, but there's been some discussion about the prevalence of 
decorative zinc came in that era (mid-1930s) -- that used to have 
rebar on them.  Some well-meaning person apparently removed the rebar 
at some point, or they fell off, and now the door is starting to show 
signs of damage. (It's actually a pair of french doors, all glass 
with lead strips and a mahogany border.)

Anything special I should be aware of as I attempt to re-attach some 
rebar with a bit of extra solder?  I was planning on removing the 
doors, laying them flat, going over the joints with a wire brush and 
soldering away.

Heather
----------------------------------------
Heather Newman, Detroit Free Press
newman@det-freepress.com
313-223-3336
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From owner-glass Thu Apr  2 09:47:08 1998
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X-Path: vdot.net!shyguy
From: Carl Childers <shyguy@vdot.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Putty
Date: Thu, 02 Apr 1998 12:00:16 -0500
Message-ID: <1998Apr2.7016.0>
References: <<98Apr2.103507gmt+0100.19592@michelle.magnet.mt>>
Organization: Cox's Mower Service
Precedence: bulk

FWIW, I've always poured water on top - the putty/cement being oil based. The oil
and water don't mix, and the oil doesn't come into contact with any air. It's worked
so far for me.

Mizzi Frank at MITTS wrote:

> Most of the work I do is using came.
>
> A problem I just can't seem to get rid of is the drying out of my putty.
>
> I keep it in a plastic bucket with a lid that snaps on so as to exclude air.
>
> I DO NOT leave the bucket open for longer than I have to.
>
> When I am finished I flatten the surface of the putty as much as possible and
> pour a small amount of white spirit over the top.
>
> Unfortunately I find that the stuff at the bottom is ALWAYS rock hard and I must
> break off great chunks and knead them into the softer stuff.
>
> Can I do anything else and is the addition of white spirit a problem??
>
> Cheers
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass



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From owner-glass Thu Apr  2 13:51:45 1998
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X-Path: centuryinter.net!beelinesBG
From: "B Grantham" <beelinesBG@centuryinter.net>
To: "glenda" <glass@bungi.com>, "Heather Newman" <newman@det-freepress.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Re: Adding rebar to old lead/zinc
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 15:03:06 -0600
Message-ID: <199804022114.PAA13305@mail1.centuryinter.net>
Precedence: bulk

From: Bee Grantham <beelinesBG@centuryinter.net>
Date:  Thursday,  2 Apr  98

We work professionally on SG restoration & repair full-time.
Please describe 'damage'.  We assume you mean 'deflection' & make this
response based on this assumption.  We get our info from the SGAA
Guidelines for Restoration.

 Deflection is caused by many factors, not just 'lack of support bars'. 
Rule out these other possibilities before 'just adding' bars:  
1.Pattern of lead lines-some lead lines are more likely to deflect by
design, such as straight line 'hinge' joints, rows of diamonds set on
point, and concentric circles.
2. Panel fitted too tightly in frame-inhibits expansion/contraction cycles.
3. Use of hard-setting sealants-again inhibits expansion/contraction
cycles.
4. Use of lead cames with flat, thin leaf profiles-these are more subject
to bending than rounded profiles.
5. Use of soft alloy in came fabrication-again more subject to bending than
alloys containing 6-8% tin and antimony.
6.Yes, insufficient or poorly applied support bars also contribute to
deflection.  When adding bars, the most frequent problem we have observed
is bars not securely 'keyed' (notched with chisel) into the frame
rabet/rebate.  A portion of the bars MUST fit snug into the surrounding
frame (and NOT into the installation trim molding), otherwise the bars
'hang' off the panel, only adding weight, not support.  Hope this helps you
correctly identify the real source of the problem first!

----------
> From: Heather Newman <newman@det-freepress.com>
> To: glass@bungi.com
> Subject: Adding rebar to old lead/zinc
> Date: Thursday, April 02, 1998 5:14 AM
> 
> I've got leaded glass doors in my house -- okay, I think they're 
> lead, but there's been some discussion about the prevalence of 
> decorative zinc came in that era (mid-1930s) -- that used to have 
> rebar on them.  Some well-meaning person apparently removed the rebar 
> at some point, or they fell off, and now the door is starting to show 
> signs of damage. (It's actually a pair of french doors, all glass 
> with lead strips and a mahogany border.)
> 
> Anything special I should be aware of as I attempt to re-attach some 
> rebar with a bit of extra solder?  I was planning on removing the 
> doors, laying them flat, going over the joints with a wire brush and 
> soldering away.
> 
> Heather
> ----------------------------------------
> Heather Newman, Detroit Free Press
> newman@det-freepress.com
> 313-223-3336
> ----
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> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
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From owner-glass Thu Apr  2 14:53:57 1998
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From: Carl Childers <shyguy@vdot.net>
To: "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Tiffany article
Date: Thu, 02 Apr 1998 13:41:19 -0500
Message-ID: <1998Apr2.84119.0>
Organization: Cox's Mower Service
Precedence: bulk

Here on Lawn Guyland, the area newpaper is running a series of articles
on local history.
The following url leads to a copy of an article published this
Wednesday.
http://www.lihistory.com/6/hs617a.htm

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From owner-glass Thu Apr  2 16:20:23 1998
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From: "Michael J. Greer" <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: "Heather Newman" <newman@det-freepress.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Adding rebar to old lead/zinc
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 17:50:17 -0500
Message-ID: <1998Apr2.125017.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hi Heather-

Just remember there's no point
in adding rebar unless the rebar
extends into the frame of the door.
You probably already know this,
but you'd be amazed at how many
folks add rebar that's just soldered
onto the came and does nothing
more than add weight and speed
up the sagging process!

Best regards,

Dani Greer
Greer Gallery & Studios (who's up to her
ears in "The Last Enchantment" show and
will be working on little else for the next
two months - life's a dream!)
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From owner-glass Thu Apr  2 16:44:40 1998
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Spare Time (ha!)
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@pop3.nildram.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 3 Apr 1998 01:01:24 +0000
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Precedence: bulk

Sigh!

Finish my VAT accounts that were due on February 28th and my Inland 
Revenue accounts that were due on 31st January .
Elisdabeth 'n Toby in UK

 Message text written 
by "Kaye Sodt" >So, with a big chunk of spare time, what would you 
do?<

----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
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From owner-glass Thu Apr  2 16:49:55 1998
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From: "Heather Newman" <newman@det-freepress.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Adding rebar to old lead/zinc
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 17:17:44 +0000
Message-ID: <1998Apr2.171744.0>
Organization: Detroit Free Press
Precedence: bulk

Thanks, everyone, for your responses so far!  I neglected to mention 
in the original post that the slots in the mahogany frame where the 
rebar original was supported are still there, so it seems likely that 
someone removed the bars rather than having them just fall off by 
themselves.

The damage, which I should have specified, is a gradual cracking of 
some of the solder joints in the middle of the door, where stress 
(from opening and closing) seems to be strongest.  There are clear 
grooves in those solder joints where the rebar used to sit; I'm not 
sure what encouraged the past person to take it off.

Cheers,

Heather
----------------------------------------
Heather Newman, Detroit Free Press
newman@det-freepress.com
313-223-3336
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From owner-glass Thu Apr  2 19:24:33 1998
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From: cpesonen@bcinternet.net (Cindy Pesonen)
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Subject: Adding rebar to old lead/zinc
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 18:56:41 -0800 (PST)
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>X-From_: owner-glass@daver.bungi.com Thu Apr  2 16:25:15 1998
>Return-Path: owner-glass@daver.bungi.com
>X-Path: compuserve.com!GreerStudios
>From: "Michael J. Greer" <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
>To: "Heather Newman" <newman@det-freepress.com>
>Subject: Adding rebar to old lead/zinc
>Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 17:50:17 -0500
>Precedence: bulk

> Very good info, I know this isnt's the topic, but,...does that apply to
restrip used thru out a project? Or is it because restrip is used within the
glass that it's a strong union? I've wondered about how restrip actually
works and why.... what I've only come up with is that it allows the solder
lines to become stronger... like in a large lamp and allowing solder to flow
in between the glass pieces, hence it's the solder between the glass that's
giving strength not the solder sitting on top of the foil.
Cindy

>Hi Heather-
>
>Just remember there's no point
>in adding rebar unless the rebar
>extends into the frame of the door.
>You probably already know this,
>but you'd be amazed at how many
>folks add rebar that's just soldered
>onto the came and does nothing
>more than add weight and speed
>up the sagging process!
>
>Best regards,
>
>Dani Greer
>Greer Gallery & Studios (who's up to her
>ears in "The Last Enchantment" show and
>will be working on little else for the next
>two months - life's a dream!)
>----
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>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
>

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From owner-glass Fri Apr  3 07:39:02 1998
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: Cindy Pesonen <cpesonen@bcinternet.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Adding rebar to old lead/zinc
Date: Fri, 03 Apr 1998 10:12:56 -0500
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References: <<199804030256.SAA23881@ns2.vphos.net>>
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Cindy Pesonen wrote:
> 
> >X-From_: owner-glass@daver.bungi.com Thu Apr  2 16:25:15 1998
> >Return-Path: owner-glass@daver.bungi.com
> >X-Path: compuserve.com!GreerStudios
> >From: "Michael J. Greer" <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
> >To: "Heather Newman" <newman@det-freepress.com>
> >Subject: Adding rebar to old lead/zinc
> >Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 17:50:17 -0500
> >Precedence: bulk
> 
> > Very good info, I know this isnt's the topic, but,...does that apply to
> restrip used thru out a project? Or is it because restrip is used within the
> glass that it's a strong union? I've wondered about how restrip actually
> works and why.... what I've only come up with is that it allows the solder
> lines to become stronger... like in a large lamp and allowing solder to flow
> in between the glass pieces, hence it's the solder between the glass that's
> giving strength not the solder sitting on top of the foil.
> Cindy
> 

solder would flow there anyway. what it does is, it connects the panel
throughout. it's like having one larger piece of glass in the middle. it
does'nt do as good a job as regular rebar, but it still does a good
job... i personally like the braided kind.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
2-2-98 New Pages Added: 22 New Stained Glass Links, 7 New Projects Added
and My Updated Shop Photo's
----
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From owner-glass Fri Apr  3 09:42:50 1998
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From: Margaret41 <Margaret41@aol.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Oxidation Problem Corrected ?
Date: Fri, 3 Apr 1998 12:08:04 EST
Message-ID: <1998Apr3.1784.0>
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Thanks everyone for help on my oxidation problem(s). I've changed a few
things...changed solder brands
         ...for washing pieces, mixing joy, baking soda and water is now more
in PASTE form than a bowl full of water with stuff in it.
         ...still on the hunt for the lemon oil as described in a previous
post - will be back out checking this wkend.

Thanks!        Margaret
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From owner-glass Fri Apr  3 10:14:04 1998
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From: Margaret41 <Margaret41@aol.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: What is ????
Date: Fri, 3 Apr 1998 12:21:06 EST
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Hi - What is Bakers Solder Fluid ("for all soldering except around mirror
joints"...)
       What exactly is tallow candle (for use around mirror joints)

I've read these, but never have seen them in any of the retail stores I go to.
Do they go by different brand names or something. Where can they be purchased.
Thanks.  Margaret
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From owner-glass Fri Apr  3 11:23:59 1998
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X-Path: mars.ark.com!wmunro
From: wmunro@mars.ark.com (Wayne Munro)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Norm Dobbins Videos
Date: Fri, 3 Apr 1998 10:47:42 -0800
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Howdy gang...
Does anyone know if Professional Glass Consultants company has a web address
or e-mail address? I ordered the set of Glass Etching Videos in January of
this year and it is quickly turning out to be "the order from He--!"
Thanks....
Wayne 

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From owner-glass Fri Apr  3 13:23:59 1998
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From: "Tony Regan" <aareg@globalnet.co.uk>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: restoration 
Date: Fri, 3 Apr 1998 21:28:41 +0100
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Hi everyone

I need some help with a series of Victorian leaded panels I have been given.
They have been stored in the open [ in damp and misty Cornwall ] for several
years. The lead came has quite severe oxidation. I have built a pergola in
the garden and have put random panels around it, which gives a great effect
when the sun shines through.

How can I clean up the leadwork now that I have replaced the odd broken
bits? My experience is only with foil, but I have managed to prise open the
came to replace a few rondels and cracked areas but want to preserve them as
best as possible, especially now that they are fixed in an open environment
with the weather attacking both sides.

Kind regards

Tony Regan



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From owner-glass Fri Apr  3 14:55:40 1998
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Subject: Re: Spare Time (ha!)
Date: Fri, 03 Apr 1998 17:40:25 -0500
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Toby wrote:

> Sigh!
>
> Finish my VAT accounts that were due on February 28th and my Inland
> Revenue accounts that were due on 31st January .
> Elisdabeth 'n Toby in UK
>

Great sympathies, Elisabeth, in that it's time for us in the states to
get our act together and file our federal and state taxes.  I've checked
and re checked the business accounts and have to buckle down and do
those forms.  I'd rather be playing with Photoshop right now.  And my
local glass supplier is having her big April sale, so I'd rather be
shopping...

Dorothy K

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From owner-glass Sat Apr  4 00:27:31 1998
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From: goldpaws <gmanning@banet.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Re: Tacky Wax
Date: Sat, 04 Apr 1998 01:54:26 -0500
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to all who responded to my  question .
I really appreciate it as I have only been doing  stained  glass  for 10
mos.
Nice to have such a great  resource of knowledge.
The Goo-Gone worked the best for me for my tacky wax.
Next to the GA big thanks oo-Gone  at  Wal-Mart was De-Solv-It . It's
100% organic and citrus based.  (Maybe we could use it as flux?)
LOL  It worked well for cleaning up my shade . Yes, I am going to really
wash it!
Thanks again  from  the newbie glass lady.
Goldpaws
P.S. I have Many - Many more questions! Are You all Ready??

goldpaws wrote:



goldpaws wrote:

> Can anyone tell me a good way to remove tacky wax from my glass?
> It's on a lamp shade and I am having a awful time removing it.
> Thanks
> Goldpaws



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From owner-glass Sat Apr  4 04:28:20 1998
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From: Rick Lasita <pebble@fuse.net>
To: Tony Regan <aareg@globalnet.co.uk>
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Subject: Re: restoration
Date: Sat, 04 Apr 1998 07:04:14 -0500
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Tony, I would try to brass brush the exisiting lead came and apply a light
coating of oil.  I see nothing wrong with replacing pieces of came either, I
think you can do that without destroying the integrity of the panels.

Rick

hrrp://home.fuse.net/crafts/index.html

Tony Regan wrote:

> Hi everyone
>
> I need some help with a series of Victorian leaded panels I have been given.
> They have been stored in the open [ in damp and misty Cornwall ] for several
> years. The lead came has quite severe oxidation. I have built a pergola in
> the garden and have put random panels around it, which gives a great effect
> when the sun shines through.
>
> How can I clean up the leadwork now that I have replaced the odd broken
> bits? My experience is only with foil, but I have managed to prise open the
> came to replace a few rondels and cracked areas but want to preserve them as
> best as possible, especially now that they are fixed in an open environment
> with the weather attacking both sides.
>
> Kind regards
>
> Tony Regan
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass



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From owner-glass Sat Apr  4 04:41:26 1998
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Subject: Re: Tacky Wax
Date: Sat, 4 Apr 1998 07:06:59 EST
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Goldpaws,
Happy to hear that Goo Gone did the job of the wax romoval on the glass!  What
a nice feeling to complete a work that so much time, energy and $ was
allocated!!!  F.Y.I.  another product called Goof Off (sold at K-mart and home
improvement centers) works wonderfully also.  Unlike Goo Gone, Goof Off is
caustic and care must be taken to use it on hardy materials only. (it eats
plastic, yum-yum.)  
Lenore
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From owner-glass Sat Apr  4 07:05:00 1998
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X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
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Subject: Norm Dobbins Videos
Date: Sat, 4 Apr 1998 09:43:49 -0500
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Message text written by Wayne Munro
>Does anyone know if Professional Glass Consultants company has a web
address
or e-mail address?<

I don't have one for them.  But here's what I do have:

Professional Glass Consultants
Norm & Ruth Dobbins
2442  Cerrillos Road, Suite 350
Santa Fe, NM 87501
505-473-9203 fax 505-983-3302

Good luck with the order.
Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles, P.O.Box 903, Skippack, PA 19474-0903
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From owner-glass Sat Apr  4 07:33:20 1998
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From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@vgernet.net>
To: Rick Lasita <pebble@fuse.net>
Subject: Re: restoration
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@vgernet.net>
Date: Sat, 4 Apr 1998 10:24:06 +0000
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> Tony, I would try to brass brush the exisiting lead came and apply a light
> coating of oil.  I see nothing wrong with replacing pieces of came either, I
> think you can do that without destroying the integrity of the 
panels.

Actually, Rick, coating lead cames with anything does them a 
disservice. As Julie Sloan points out in "Conservation of Stained 
Glass in America" ( http://www.aiap.com/ ),

"Lead is very resistant to most forms of corrosion, because it forms 
a protective patina on its surface."

It's best to leave the surface of lead came open to the elements and 
not sealed away from them. Installed windows should be vented to 
allow interior or exterior air to move across the surface of the 
panels, thus removing moisture, which is the true villain in their 
deterioration.

Albert
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From owner-glass Sat Apr  4 10:05:09 1998
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From: Witchdoc3 <Witchdoc3@aol.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: A brief hello...
Date: Sat, 4 Apr 1998 12:34:30 EST
Message-ID: <1998Apr4.173430.0>
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Hi all. My name is CCW Sparks (people call me Sparks or Sparky or occasionally
Dr. Sparks, Witch Doctor <g>). I'm Christie Wood's sometime
assistant/apprentice/extra pair of hands/pain in the butt/problem child and
have recently started doing copperfoil work on my own. She's been talking up
this list for months. I finally followed her advice and signed on today.

'Nuff said... I'll be lurking....


Sparks
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From owner-glass Sat Apr  4 11:36:41 1998
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From: "studio@stainedglass.co.uk" <studio@stainedglass.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Glass help: UK, Japan, Portugal?
Date: Sat, 04 Apr 1998 20:05:11 +0100
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A long time ago V T Phelps wrote:
>Dear bungians et al,
>I just got this and thought that I might pass it on in hope that some of
>'our gang' might be able to help? 
>----
>Does somebody here uses materials / equipment from RSG -
>Resin Stained Glass (UK)  or Ueno (Japan) ?
>Or some other similar resin method?

I've finally rediscovered the website of the Glass & Glazing products magazine,
where I am sure I saw something mentioned about the Resin imitation stained
glass stuff. It is 
www.ggp.co.uk
email to Paul Thompson at directory@bigfoot.com
Unfortunately I have lost the original enquirers email address to respond
directly, so VT could you forward the info?
Thanks
Elizabeth & Sam Law (Bournemouth Stained Glass)
790 Wimborne Road Bournemouth Dorset BH9 2DX England
http://www.stainedglass.co.uk

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From owner-glass Sat Apr  4 13:09:13 1998
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
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Subject: Re: restoration
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Date: Sat, 4 Apr 1998 21:24:30 +0000
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Albert , Rick & Tony

I think  both Albert & Rick have slightly missed the point here; the 
panels that Tony is trying to restore have already taken some 
battering, the solder joints have cracked, and I dare say the lead 
has already turned to a colour of faint white.
Julie Sloan's recommendations are exemplary - taken in context.

>From Tony's description the lead has already become somewhat brittle 
and crumbly. It will only be a matter of time  until 
the rest of the joints start cracking up (a year or two) out of doors 
in wonderful Cornwall). Tony tells us he wants to repair/restore the 
panel/s  to form part of a kind of garden construction.

 If it's ONE thing that Cornwall gets plenty of it is salt , wind/ 
tail-ends of the French autumn "Mistral",  humid air and plenty of 
rain and wet in winter......

My advice (which is why I went quiet...) is to  trace out the design 
on paper,  strip off the old lead , clean the glass,  number the 
glass pieces,and re-lead with fresh lead (and - depending on the size 
and where placed in the Cornish weather - include some 
re-inforcements). A bit of hard sweat and elbow-grease, which is why 
I hesitated to comment.

Alternatively  ....   ;-)
You say that you are really a copper-foil person....
I can make you enthusiastic about lead (....I'm sure....!?)
Invite me (and Toby...?) to my absolute favourite part of UK for a 
week and I will help/show you how to do it and achieve it; and give 
you the basic skills how to progress from there. There is a fair 
amount of leaded lights/stained glass in North Devon & Cornwall, 
where the lead has been eaten away by the elements.Through my walks 
and wanderings in the area I have seen a fair amount of "tired" 
panels that would be perfectly OK for another 100 years and more, if 
lovingly and carefully re-leaded. Regretably, there seems to be a 
dearth of know-how and craftsmanship locally and so people "repair" 
their stained glass/leaded lights with the help of  wood-fillers, 
araldite,  mastic and upholstery  nails.... :-(

 Years ago, it was my dream to move down to the border area of 
Cornwall / North Devon to set up shop and work. I suppose I'll be 
stuck in Hertfordshire for now (Not a bad place to be either...).

My advice:  let's not "faff" about, strip it down and re-lead. You 
save time and tears in the long run....
Let me know how I can help...
Elisabeth 'n Toby in  Hertfordshire, UK

Rick wrote:
> Tony, I would try to brass brush the exisiting lead came and apply a light
> coating of oil.  I see nothing wrong with replacing pieces of came either, I
> think you can do that without destroying the integrity of the 
panels.

Albert replied:
Actually, Rick, coating lead cames with anything does them a 
disservice. As Julie Sloan points out in "Conservation of Stained 
Glass in America" ( http://www.aiap.com/ ),

"Lead is very resistant to most forms of corrosion, because it forms 
a protective patina on its surface."

It's best to leave the surface of lead came open to the elements and 
not sealed away from them. Installed windows should be vented to 
allow interior or exterior air to move across the surface of the 
panels, thus removing moisture, which is the true villain in their 
deterioration.

----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
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Subject: The Glass Eye
Date: Sat, 04 Apr 1998 16:21:03 -0500
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Hi bungians:
Was just wondering how many other folks had downloaded Internet Edition
2 of The Glass Eye. The first one was nice, the second one is great!!
Anyone else check it out?
Carolyn
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Yep....it's wonderful!!  IMHO, the New Internet Version of Glasseye is the new
"cutting edge" technology in purchasing stained glass patterns. The Books to
copier method may become outmoded in the next few years.  
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Christie,
What is Professional Glass Consultants?  Is it a supply house?  magazine?  Did
I miss something here?
Thanks in Advance,
Lenore
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Subject: Re: restoration
Date: Sat, 4 Apr 1998 18:33:16 EST
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Elizabeth 'n Toby 'n Tony 'n Bungies,

Great advice to "strip off" the old lead and relead the entire panel.  I did
that a short while ago to a piece that was in desperate shape (though I caught
it in time).  I felt such a sense of accomplishment with the idea that I was
SAVING or rescuing a piece from an untimely demise!  However, I punked out at
the end and foiled instead of leaded the piece.  

Next time I have a restoration, Elizabeth ' Toby, I know who to call.  The
U.S.A. isn't that far from Herdforshire (sp?) is it?!  <BG>  I am sure you
would enjoy a trip into Philadelphia, Pennsylvania too!    What a great
opportunity you are being offered Tony!  What a wonderful gesture on your part
to make, E ' T!!!

Lenore
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Date: Sat, 4 Apr 1998 18:37:14 EST
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Dear Sparks,
Welcome to Bungi!!!  from a neighbor (I live in Flourtown).  Hope you enjoy!
Lenore
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From owner-glass Sat Apr  4 17:57:31 1998
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Subject: Bios
Date: Sat, 4 Apr 1998 19:36:08 -0500
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Hey, Patrick-

Did I miss today's bios?  Isn't =

it Saturday?;'(

Best,

Dani Greer
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Subject: Bio#8 Cindy Pensonen
Date: Sat, 04 Apr 1998 21:14:54 -0600
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One day, long time in the past (1981) I got crazy for an idea.
Kitchen glass doors for my house.
The rest is history!!!!
But just for Elizabeth n' Toby in the UK, I'll go into details.
I took a course... deep in the bush in the Cariboo.(stained glass)
After 5 years my husband told to me if I didn't do something with it,
the
house would blow up.
I started to sell, then I started to teach. I taught myself out of a job
in
the Cariboo and looked for more. More... took me to sandblasting and a
year
later kiln work.
I love my glass and hope it loves me as I still try to learn everything
I
can. My finial wants and wishes is to blow the darn stuff.
Waiting for the old man to retire and then I can use him more!!!
I have done shows, can you tell I'm shy???
I'm afraid of people!! This works for me, I hate the paper work that a
business has also. You can tell I'm going far,eh??
I get crazy and no one understands but me, I get into my blasting room,
adorned with the outfit that most beauty magazines offer women of my age
and
just love it!! The abrasive flies all around me, like a crazy wind that
drives me and my art. I look to new ideas... and pen and paper do well
at my
side for the many thoughts I have. Luckily I don't wake up in my sleep
for
thoughts of it yet, but think I should, as I don't sleep anyhow!
If your looking for big shit (can I say that?) I've done small amounts,
hmmm, small amounts of big... sounds like I should not even mention. I
want
to get big, you betcha!! One day at a time. Like I say I'm crazy and
love
it...just have to find crazy to buy it all!!!
Looking for input and think everyone is just the best here. I wish to
apologized to whom ever I pissed off by my drunken comments when I first

started this line. I'm so very sorry and lost it, Daniel German, thank
you
for your accepting.
You do speak english,eh, ah shit, I got to be the dummies idiot, all the

best to you and my new family here at the bungi.
Love you all bunches, hey it's a Cindy thing!!!

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Subject: Bio#8 Mike Simpson
Date: Sat, 04 Apr 1998 21:19:06 -0600
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Do you want the short or the long version?

Short version:

        I came, I saw, I did glass
        (veni vidi vitri?)

Long version


Biography of Mike Simpson.

Born in the East end of London a year too late for the Second World
War and a day to late for April Fools day, I emigrated to Rhodesia at
the age of three.

My first encounter with Tiffany lamps was at the age of about
four. Like most children at that time I was taken every week for a
hair-cut at an Italian barbers where (according to family legend) I
refused to sit waiting for my turn to be shorn, but instead stared
endlessly at an old table lamp on the end of the counter. Only when I
got a copy of Neustadt's "The Lamps of Tiffany" did I recall this as I
recognized it instantly in the photograph of the Fish Lamp (fig. 147
in the Neustadt) and I even remember it in black and white. One
strange thing is that I even recall what I was thinking, something on
the lines of "gee wizz, isn't that ugly".  Fortunately my taste has
changed with time.

Also at a very tender age I learned a great respect for glass by
jumping bare footed from a wall into a pile of broken bottles, an
experience that still makes my feet cringe whenever I think about it
(as they are doing now.) I believe that this made for forty years of
total inability to cut glass even to replace a simple window pane - in
a life otherwise marked with a remarkable facility with any other
material.

My school years were a combination of great success and truly dismal
failure, I annoyed my maths and science teachers by putting in
faultless exam papers year after year while distressing the teachers
of History, Geography, Literature, Music and Physical Education by
establishing new low records in those subjects. The only subject where
I pleased the teacher by obtaining a suitably mediocre pass was Art.

After I left high school, deprived of a university education by my
under-achievement in Latin and a range of other subjects, I served an
apprenticeship as an aircraft electrician and instrument technician.
As Rhodesia was going through a bit of a contretemps with the rest of
the world at this time, I had to learn to work to high precision
making parts that in any other country could be got with nothing more
than money.

About this time I started taking occasional breaks in order to chase
after the things that any self respecting hippy was chasing after;
women, loud music, exotic but unkempt new hair-styles, alcohol and the
other requisites of that life. I think that many of my tastes were
formed during this time by the extravagantly dramatic scenery of
Africa, sunsets, tropical storms, the Victoria Falls and being chased
by a rogue bull elephant (second only to the Victoria Falls in drama)

In the late '70s I had perforce to spend much of my time in the
military forces and acquired a distinct dislike of being shot at by
people who would rather I wasn't there. Being only somewhat slow on
the uptake, I finally got the message and departed suddenly from
Rhodesia when I was supposed to present myself for another stint of
being a soldier, I guess this technically makes me a deserter.

When I got to England in 1979 I started working at Coventry University
as a sort of general Mr. Fixit for the Biology department and got
involved in supporting just about anything that wasn't actually
Biology.  It is one of the peculiarities of biologists, they believe
that the whole of knowledge is divided in two parts, Biology and the
rest. For this reason I had to be a mechanical/electrical/electronics
/carpentry/optical/physical/chemical technician, computer
programmer/expert, administrative assistant, manual laborer and
general dogs-body. This may sound like a bit of a drag, but they were
glorious years. I was able to achieve something that felt worthwhile
and was almost my own boss. Each day was different, sometimes on the
forefront of science, other times on the backside of science.

As the '80s drew to a close though, a chill wind of bureaucracy blew
through the universities. No longer could I work until midnight if I
was working on something that interested me; no more could I order the
parts needed for a project without the approval of a string of
managers; gone were the days of my recommendations being accepted -
replaced by a committee-kludge made by people who knew nothing more
than power games.

As time weighed heavily on my hands, I decided that I would have to
try something utterly impossible and stained glass fitted the bill -
being not just unachievable as I had found glass in the past but
something that is only done by the gods. My life partner, Sue, bought
me a glass cutter and a box full of glass for Christmas and I was set
on several weeks of frustration before the glass started doing more or
less what I wanted. To cut a long story short, while I still have "bad
cutting days", on a good cutting day I can cut glass with a banana. (I
haven't been able to prove this as science tells us that bananas and
good cutting days cannot occupy the same space and time)

At the end of 1996 I was offered, and took (or rather grabbed) early
retirement, intending to set up my own business. That business has not
flourished as I am more intent on enjoying myself than getting
rich. My fame has not spread to far fields, indeed it is restricted to
myself and the owner of a local gallery who proclaims that I am the
best in England (Oo! these marketing people are such fibbers)

Most of my output is in Tiffany Replicas although I am evolving my own
style based on my knowledge of mathematics, I can still torture an
equation into giving me aesthetically pleasing shapes that can be
created in glass. I am no great fan of what is known as "contemporary
styles" but most of my customers seem to regard my designs as
contemporary; I would rather think of them as sort of "Nouveau Art
Nouveau"

Well, that's it, my life in glass in a nutshell. If I was too humble I
crave your forgiveness. If I was too arrogant then !!!!!

Mike Simpson.

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From owner-glass Sat Apr  4 21:12:28 1998
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From: Carolyn Noel <glasscat@infinet.com>
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Subject: Re: The Glass Eye
Date: Sat, 04 Apr 1998 22:37:39 -0500
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References: <<1998Apr4.22144.0>>
Organization: The Stained Glass Place
Precedence: bulk

I know what you mean. Pattern books will be a thing of the past.
Although with alot of the patterns being priced "separately" it could
get kind of expensive. Some of them are really beautiful, though, and
well worth the price.
Carolyn
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From owner-glass Sun Apr  5 09:37:10 1998
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From: "Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
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Subject: The Glass Eye
Date: Sun, 5 Apr 1998 11:49:13 -0400
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Message text written by Carolyn Noel
>Was just wondering how many other folks had downloaded Internet Edition
2 of The Glass Eye. The first one was nice, the second one is great!!
Anyone else check it out?<

Not yet.  Plan on downloading the full upgrade product (I've owned
version 1 for over a year now and am very pleased) as soon as I get
through with my bungi reading/replies.

I just purchased my first color printer - an HP DeskJet 720C - specifical=
ly
to do project printouts for clients.  I did my first one, and will never
ever go back to hand water coloring again!  Love it!

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles, P.O.Box 903, Skippack, PA 19474-0903
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From owner-glass Sun Apr  5 14:51:37 1998
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To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: The Glass Eye: Internet Version 2
Date: Sun, 5 Apr 1998 16:55:38 EDT
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I find that with the old book/paper/enlargment method I'll often pay a lot for
a book and only use 1-2 patterns out of it.  Thus, when ya get right down
tuit...there isn't much difference when you divide book cost by patterns used.
The single pattern digital buying method of Glasseye may actually be cheaper
in the long run, since all the enlarging can be done to exact spec's and on
your OWN printer.  

Thanks for the ear...

AJ

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From: Tiffany-Glas@t-online.de (Herbert Luidolt)
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Subject: Re: Hey, I'm hooked
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1998 00:23:09 +0200
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AATDJ schrieb:
> Looking for patterns and tips.
>
> Thanks,
> Wendy
> ----
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Hi Wendy,
we also have some Pattern on our Page
Now a new for Pattern for Eastern.
(on the Main Page): http://www.bastelzauber.com
and on our Downloadpage: http://www.bastelzauber.com/load.htm
and on a Special Page: http://www.bastelzauber.com/fairy.htm
I hope there are something for you and other Readers,
herbert

You need the Acrobat Reader for printing the Pattern

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From: "Dianne G. Maddison" <artglass@flash.net>
To: bungi <glass@bungi.com>
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Subject: Glasseye
Date: Sun, 05 Apr 1998 17:54:42 -0500
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Just a comment on the new version of Dragon Software Glass Eye.  It is
great!!  Any of you who haven't downloaded it yet, please do so as you
are in for a treat.
Dianne Maddison

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From owner-glass Sun Apr  5 17:25:40 1998
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Subject: Sponges
Date: Sun, 05 Apr 1998 18:58:42 -0400
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Hello Fellow Bungians...
	My new question...  I remember a discussion not to long ago about sponges.
 Boiled down to "don't use cellulose (kitchen) sponges, buy the kind
designed to take the heat, stained glass sponges."
	OK... did that !!  I see sponges advertised in the W-C catalog, (page 95)
it says the sponges are made of cellulose.  What's up with that?
Perhaps I misunderstood the thread?

Thanks for you comments...

Barbara Snell
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From owner-glass Sun Apr  5 18:11:36 1998
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Subject: Re: Glasseye
Date: Sun, 5 Apr 1998 20:04:28 EDT
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Dianne

I have been reading so much about how everybody is so impressed with the
Glasseye....what is the url to get to it.

Doing patterns is one part of stained glass that I could do without.  I like
to see what my patterns will look like in color before I do them and I usually
stick to whatever colors I first have in mind.

I assume I am not the only one that would like to try it out and don't have
the internet address.

Margie
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From owner-glass Sun Apr  5 19:13:23 1998
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Subject: Re: Sponges
Date: Sat, 4 Apr 98 20:51:00 -0000
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Barbara wrote:
>	My new question...  I remember a discussion not to long ago about sponges.
> Boiled down to "don't use cellulose (kitchen) sponges, buy the kind
>designed to take the heat, stained glass sponges."
>	OK... did that !!  I see sponges advertised in the W-C catalog, (page 95)
>it says the sponges are made of cellulose.  What's up with that?
>Perhaps I misunderstood the thread?

I was wondering the same thing myself.
Howard? 



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From owner-glass Sun Apr  5 19:31:21 1998
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: Barbara <bjs10@cornell.edu>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Sponges
Date: Sun, 05 Apr 1998 20:55:55 -0400
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Barbara wrote:
> 
> Hello Fellow Bungians...
>         My new question...  I remember a discussion not to long ago about sponges.
>  Boiled down to "don't use cellulose (kitchen) sponges, buy the kind
> designed to take the heat, stained glass sponges."
>         OK... did that !!  I see sponges advertised in the W-C catalog, (page 95)
> it says the sponges are made of cellulose.  What's up with that?
> Perhaps I misunderstood the thread?
> 
> Thanks for you comments...
> 
> Barbara Snell
> ----
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i don't think it's the cellulose. i think it's the stuff in the sponge,
like sulfer, and other oddities. but i got this info from another
source, i don't know haw truley accurate it is. but i figure, i can
afford the buck it costs, if it will extend the life of my iron.

---Mike Savad

-- 
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http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
2-2-98 New Pages Added: 22 New Stained Glass Links, 7 New Projects Added
and My Updated Shop Photo's
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From owner-glass Sun Apr  5 22:43:53 1998
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From: Carolyn Noel <glasscat@infinet.com>
To: Romajoco <Romajoco@aol.com>
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Subject: Re: Glasseye
Date: Sun, 05 Apr 1998 22:40:44 -0400
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Organization: The Stained Glass Place
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For anyone wanting to check out Dragonfly and their new downloads (and
it's definitely worth the trip), the address is       
http://www.dfly.com 
Carolyn
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From owner-glass Sun Apr  5 23:56:33 1998
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From: Goldpaws <gmanning@banet.net>
To: Romajoco <Romajoco@aol.com>, glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Re: Glasseye
Date: Sun, 05 Apr 1998 23:59:01 -0400
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The new FREE Windows 95 version of Glasseye Internet Edition is now
available for download at http://www.dfly.com
Goldpaws

Romajoco wrote:

> Dianne
>
> I have been reading so much about how everybody is so impressed with the
> Glasseye....what is the url to get to it.
>
> Doing patterns is one part of stained glass that I could do without.  I like
> to see what my patterns will look like in color before I do them and I usually
> stick to whatever colors I first have in mind.
>
> I assume I am not the only one that would like to try it out and don't have
> the internet address.
>
> Margie
> ----
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From owner-glass Mon Apr  6 07:56:15 1998
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From: Jennifer Daniels <agw@digital.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Norm Dobbins Videos
Date: Mon, 06 Apr 1998 09:45:41 -0400
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Dear Wayne,

The web address for the Glass Library is
http://www.artglassworld.com/supply/library.  You can order books and
videos directly online.  Glass Craftsman is at
http://www.artglassworld.com/mag/gcraft.  From there you can contact them
by e-mail, read featured online articles and order their magazine directly
online.

Sincerely,
Jennifer

At 10:47 AM 4/3/98 -0800, you wrote:
>Howdy gang...
>Does anyone know if Professional Glass Consultants company has a web address
>or e-mail address? I ordered the set of Glass Etching Videos in January of
>this year and it is quickly turning out to be "the order from He--!"
>Thanks....
>Wayne 
>
>----
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>
>
===================================================================
Jennifer Daniels	agw@digital.net
Art Glass World		http://www.artglassworld.com
4002 W. State St.	phone: 813-348-0605
Tampa, FL  33609 USA	fax: 813-872-6288
===================================================================
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From owner-glass Mon Apr  6 10:14:27 1998
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From: "studio@stainedglass.co.uk" <studio@stainedglass.co.uk>
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Subject: South African Stained Glass Shops?
Date: Mon, 06 Apr 1998 17:48:09 +0100
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Do any of you know of any stained glass supplies shops - or even studios -
in or around Capetown, South Africa?
We have a student due to go there for a year or so who is hoping she wont
have to transport everything from UK to continue her hobby.
Thanks in advance
Elizabeth & Sam Law (Bournemouth Stained Glass)
790 Wimborne Road Bournemouth Dorset BH9 2DX England
http://www.stainedglass.co.uk

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From owner-glass Mon Apr  6 10:54:41 1998
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Subject: off again
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1998 13:10:58 EDT
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Hi,

Have we been turned off again?  I miss it very much and  being new I just
ignore the garbage dumping that has gone on.  Your tips help me a lot.  Please
bring it back.  Sincerely,  Irene      irenemerm@aol.com
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Subject: south african stained glass studios
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1998 11:12:14 -0700 (PDT)
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sorry, i dont know of any..if i come across any will
submit info..



_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

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From owner-glass Mon Apr  6 14:52:30 1998
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Subject: Re: South African Stained Glass Shops?
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1998 17:10:43 EDT
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If you know of any south african patterns - sure would be interested. Thanks
Margaret
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From owner-glass Mon Apr  6 16:20:07 1998
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: Irene Merm <IreneMerm@aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
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Date: Mon, 06 Apr 1998 18:40:57 -0400
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Irene Merm wrote:
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Have we been turned off again?  I miss it very much and  being new I just
> ignore the garbage dumping that has gone on.  Your tips help me a lot.  Please
> bring it back.  Sincerely,  Irene      irenemerm@aol.com
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


nope not off, just quiet.

---Mike Savad

-- 
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http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
2-2-98 New Pages Added: 22 New Stained Glass Links, 7 New Projects Added
and My Updated Shop Photo's
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From owner-glass Mon Apr  6 16:48:57 1998
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From: TifStyOrig <TifStyOrig@aol.com>
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Subject: Re: Bios
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1998 19:18:35 EDT
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Patrick,
A round of applause to you for doing such a great job organizing the
biographies (kind of like A&E's Biography ???!!!).  They are all such a
pleasure to read, and it brings a whole new, wonderful dimension to the group.
I'm enjoying "getting to know everyone".
Keep 'em coming.  For anyone who hasn't submitted one yet, please do!!

Diane Manchester
Tiffany Styled Originals
Delray Beach, FL
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From owner-glass Mon Apr  6 17:26:14 1998
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From: "Michael J. Greer" <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Re: South African Stained Glass Shops?
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1998 19:37:41 -0400
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Here's what's listed in Common Ground:Glass
(the IGGA magazine):

Under Republic of South Africa in Sandton -
Dan MacDonald
Victorian Stained Glass Works
PO Box 78056

And under South Africa in Witbank, Mpumalanga-
Conrad J. Grobbelaar
PO Box 4486 =

Phone (782 782) 457-0205 ( P.S. This looks incorrect to me.)
Fax (713) 592-8262
e-mail  conrad@pentapower.co.za =


Hope this helps someone!

Best regards,

Dani Greer
Greer Gallery & Studios

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From owner-glass Tue Apr  7 09:45:29 1998
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Subject: Re: Sponges
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1998 11:57:33 -0400 (EDT)
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On Sun, 5 Apr 1998, Barbara wrote:

> Hello Fellow Bungians...
> 	My new question...  I remember a discussion not to long ago about sponges.
>  Boiled down to "don't use cellulose (kitchen) sponges, buy the kind
> designed to take the heat, stained glass sponges."
> 	OK... did that !!  I see sponges advertised in the W-C catalog, (page 95)
> it says the sponges are made of cellulose.  What's up with that?
> Perhaps I misunderstood the thread?

I have been using cheap old kitch sponges for years.  As long as you keep 
them wet (notice I did not say damp) you should not have a problem.  I 
haven't.  I keep one that I cut up in an old tuna fish can.  Before each 
soldering session I make sure the can is is filled with warm water and 
then put the sponge back in once it is good and wet I pour out any excess 
water.  As you press down on the sponge some water will run out of it but 
it ramains wet for several hours.  Same sponge for over two years now.  
It is a little ragged.

Personally, I am more worried about all the other nasties involved (ie. - 
lead fumes and flux fumes).

Bob

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Subject: Re: Sponges
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1998 12:40:31 EDT
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In a message dated 98-04-05 22:32:24 EDT, you write:

<< 
 > Hello Fellow Bungians...
 >         My new question...  I remember a discussion not to long ago about
sponges.
 >  Boiled down to "don't use cellulose (kitchen) sponges, buy the kind
 > designed to take the heat, stained glass sponges."
 >         OK... did that !!  I see sponges advertised in the W-C catalog,
(page 95)
 > it says the sponges are made of cellulose.  What's up with that?
 > Perhaps I misunderstood the thread?
 > 
 > Thanks for you comments...
 > 
 > Barbara Snell >>


I'm new here. What is wrong with kitchen sponges?

Dianne  >^..^<



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From owner-glass Tue Apr  7 13:30:33 1998
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X-Path: vgernet.net!alewis
From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@vgernet.net>
To: DMR74 <DMR74@aol.com>
Subject: Re:was restoration.. now installation
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@vgernet.net>
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1998 15:52:32 +0000
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I was thinking "windows," when I made those comments, Deb, although 
moisture trapped 'twixt the sheet of glass you mention and the 
stained glass panel will fairly rapidly lead to problems. 
Condensation's guaranteed, since the stained glass panel isn't 
airtight, and water's the universal solvent, so it will attack the 
lead came and/or copper foil.

Vent it, though, to the inside or outside, allowing air to move 
across the space between protective glass and stained glass, and you 
also move the moisture away.  Myself, I don't think either protective 
glass covering or excessive reinforcement's necessary, only enough 
(in a door) to take into account the extra stress introduced by its 
banging shut all the time. Personally, I think more hazard's 
introduced by the protective glass (imagining someone's arm 
accidentally being thrust through it) than by the stained glass 
panel, which would more likely give due to its more plastic nature, 
and itself break only in a few places that could easily be repaired.

A few years ago, "everyone" was selling protective glazing like mad; 
now you can see churches everywhere with discolored, wavy, 
disintegrating plastic coverings. Since Julie Sloan began giving the 
industry advice she learned in the regular conservation and 
preservation world, beginning with her articles in the SGAA's 
quarterly magazine, "everyone" is saying that the indiscrimate use of 
protective glazing on all windows regardless was a bad idea 
and that, if protective glazing is absolutely required (tendency of 
neighborhood youths to toss baseball-sized rocks through windows, for 
instance), it must be properly vented.  Sloan's not always (okay, 
rarely) given credit for turning people in that direction, but then 
her aim has always been to preserve this country's heritage in 
stained glass, so at least that's being accomplished.

Each project is different, has its own particular needs, and there 
are no one-size-fits-all answers. Read the books, read the articles, 
talk to others ... then examine the project at hand, consult with the 
owners, think about it and come up with what you decide is the best 
situation right now for that particular window or door.

The right answer is the one you come up with after study and thought, 
although experience has a lot to do with it, too.  My 2c worth.

Albert


> Ok this takes me to the question I ask and get all sorts of
> different answers to.  Do I or don't I put a stained glass panel
> behind a sheet of glass when installing in a door or window???? 
> Some books say it is the way everyone is doing it now, to protect
> our works, but then others say it creates a moisture barrier and now
> you tell me that is also a bad thing.  Some responses PLEASE deb

> In a message dated 98-04-04 10:33:52 EST, you write:
> 
> > It's best to leave the surface of lead came open to the elements and 
> >  not sealed away from them. Installed windows should be vented to 
> >  allow interior or exterior air to move across the surface of the 
> >  panels, thus removing moisture, which is the true villain in their 
> >  deterioration.
> >  
> >  Albert

> 
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From owner-glass Tue Apr  7 15:32:12 1998
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Subject: Re: stepping stone stability
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1998 17:15:45 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <199804072115.RAA05254@dns.city-net.com>
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>Is anyone successful in making stepping stones that do not crack? I live
>in Pennsylvania and two stores I have tried to buy molds from in my area
>told me not to bother.  
I Live in Pgh and the first year I made stepping stones, a made 4 to test
with.  Two had the whole surface covered with glass (one 14 hexagon and a
smaller 9 inch circle) and two had just one design in the stone (ie just a
bird in a tree and the other with a butterfly).  I left one of the all glass
out all winter and one with only the design with no background out and
brought the other two in all winter.  Both of the ones left out had the
glass pushed up away from the stone but only one piece of glass actaully
cracked (BTW - this was a few years ago when we had a much fiercer winter).
The other two that were brought in are still fine but I do bring them in
during the winter.

Also I found out the hard way that although they are called 'stepping'
stones, it might not be a good idea to actually put them in a walkway.  The
glass gets very slippery when wet!

Theresa

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Subject: Re: stepping stone stability
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Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1998 15:54:27 +0000
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> >Is anyone successful in making stepping stones that do not crack? I live
> >in Pennsylvania and two stores I have tried to buy molds from in my area
> >told me not to bother.  
> I Live in Pgh and the first year I made stepping stones, a made 4 to test
> with.  Two had the whole surface covered with glass (one 14 hexagon and a
> smaller 9 inch circle) and two had just one design in the stone (ie just a
> bird in a tree and the other with a butterfly).  I left one of the all glass
> out all winter and one with only the design with no background out and
> brought the other two in all winter.  Both of the ones left out had the
> glass pushed up away from the stone but only one piece of glass actaully
> cracked (BTW - this was a few years ago when we had a much fiercer winter).
> The other two that were brought in are still fine but I do bring them in
> during the winter.

I left mine out for a Canadian winter (admittedly milder than usual) 
and had no problems at all.  Do you use any kind of reinforcing wire 
in your stones?  That's the only thing I can think of that might 
cause  a problem if not done.

Shiela
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Please add me back to your newsgroup.  Thanks

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From owner-glass Tue Apr  7 18:22:22 1998
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From: Melissa Thaxton <mthaxton@softcom.net>
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Subject: Mixing Soulder
Date: Tue, 07 Apr 1998 17:28:22 -0700
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Hi bungians!

        I have 50/50 solder and 60/40 Ultimate solder, I want to do some
creative textured overlay on a box.   I have never really used anything
but 50/50 throughout the years and I wondered if  50/50 and 60/40 mix
well or does it tend to make the finish dull?

Melissa


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From owner-glass Tue Apr  7 19:21:43 1998
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X-Path: juno.com!jroey
From: jroey@juno.com (jerri m Roey)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: stepping stone stability
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1998 20:55:49 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr7.165549.0>
References: <<199804072251.PAA12146@mail1.bctel.ca>>
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I've had some stones I made out in my yard for the past two winters, and
they're fine.  I do live in Georgia, but we do go below freezing here
some during the winter.  I used quikcrete and didn't use any reinforcing
wire.

Jerri


>I left mine out for a Canadian winter (admittedly milder than usual) 
>and had no problems at all.  Do you use any kind of reinforcing wire 
>in your stones?  That's the only thing I can think of that might 
>cause  a problem if not done.
>
>Shiela
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From owner-glass Tue Apr  7 20:01:30 1998
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Date: Tue, 07 Apr 1998 21:10:31 EDT
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Sorry if it inconvenienced anyone with getting returned mail from
my mailbox.  My modem died on me last Sunday, and I finally got
my new one today!   It was a LOOOONNNNNGGGG 9 days!

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From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: Melissa Thaxton <mthaxton@softcom.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Mixing Soulder
Date: Tue, 07 Apr 1998 22:01:54 -0400
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Melissa Thaxton wrote:
> 
> Hi bungians!
> 
>         I have 50/50 solder and 60/40 Ultimate solder, I want to do some
> creative textured overlay on a box.   I have never really used anything
> but 50/50 throughout the years and I wondered if  50/50 and 60/40 mix
> well or does it tend to make the finish dull?
> 
> Melissa
> 
> ----
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i always use that combo, however if your going to do alot of decorative
work, you should use ultimate solder. do a 50-50 base, then a 60-40 bead
(makes a smoother bead then 50-50). ultimate makes a great bead but
it's  a bit more expensive.

---Mike Savad

-- 
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2-2-98 New Pages Added: 22 New Stained Glass Links, 7 New Projects Added
and My Updated Shop Photo's
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From owner-glass Tue Apr  7 20:44:20 1998
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Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: stepping stone stability
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1998 22:07:24 EDT
Message-ID: <1998Apr8.2724.0>
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I too left my stones out during the winter in Chicago.  I did used reinforcing
wire in mine...no lifting, cracks and no broken pieces of glass.

Kathy
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From owner-glass Tue Apr  7 22:18:00 1998
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From: dodgestudio@juno.com
To: mthaxton@softcom.net
Subject: Re: Mixing Soulder
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 00:54:36 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr7.205436.0>
References: <<1998Apr7.102822.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Never had any problems with mixing solder.


Gary Dodge              Dodge Studio Designs

http://www.dodgestudio.com


>
>        I have 50/50 solder and 60/40 Ultimate solder, I want to do 
>some
>creative textured overlay on a box.   I have never really used 
>anything
>but 50/50 throughout the years and I wondered if  50/50 and 60/40 mix
>well or does it tend to make the finish dull?
>
>Melissa

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From owner-glass Wed Apr  8 04:10:30 1998
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Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: RE: Mixing Soulder
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 05:29:04 -0500
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<snip>I want to do some creative textured overlay on a box
Don't know what kind of decorative  work you are thinking about, but have 
you thought of trying "quick set" solder? I have used it in conjunction 
with 60/40 and never had any problems.

Sue Reitmann

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From owner-glass Wed Apr  8 05:55:08 1998
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From: "Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Re: stepping stone stability
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 08:24:16 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr8.42416.0>
Precedence: bulk

I did a piece last year in a 14" round mold, almost the
entire surface covered in small glass pieces with a few
larger pieces thrown in.  Used Quick-Crete with the
fiber, but did not use chicken wire reinforcement.
Poured the Quick-Crete rather thin.  I kept the stepping
stone inside the store throughout the winter.  I set
it outside last Saturday, just before my store's entry
door.  I think the first person who stepped on it
broke it.  :-(  I'm very unhappy with Quick-Crete.
My most successful ones do have the chicken wire
reinforced inside, and also have a good layer of concrete.
I've switched brands of concrete to "Rapid Set Concrete
Mix" (recommended by a concrete professional).  It's
used to patch airport runways, so I believe it's strong
enough to withstand foot traffic.  I'll let you know how
it turns out.

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles, P.O.Box 903, Skippack, PA 19474-0903
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From owner-glass Wed Apr  8 09:24:20 1998
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From: Margaret41 <Margaret41@aol.com>
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Subject: Re: stepping stone stability
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 11:44:24 EDT
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In a message dated 98-04-08 08:55:40 EDT, Ensembles@compuserve.com writes:

<< broke it.  :-(  I'm very unhappy with Quick-Crete.
 My most successful ones do have the chicken wire
 reinforced inside, and also have a good layer of concrete.
 I've switched brands of concrete to "Rapid Set Concrete
 Mix" (recommended by a concrete professional).  It's
 used to patch airport runways, so I believe it's strong
 enough to withstand foot traffic.  I'll let you know how
 it turns out.
 
 Christie A. Wood >>

Yes I'd be very interested to know how Rapid Set Concret Mix works compared
with the Quick-Crete. We have Quick-crete laying around the house, but may not
be worth the effort. Please Let us know how you make out.   Margaret
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From: Dave & Lynn Loda <dandl@crcwnet.com>
To: "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Rodeo Patterns
Date: Wed, 08 Apr 1998 09:17:40 -0700
Message-ID: <1998Apr8.21740.0>
Organization: Art Glass of Wenatchee
Precedence: bulk

A customer of ours is interested in a pattern which contains a cowboy
riding a bucking bull or horse.  Any suggestions?

dave & lynn

--
____________________

Dave & Lynn Loda
Art Glass of Wenatchee
http://artglassw.com
Stained Glass Gifts & Supplies


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From owner-glass Wed Apr  8 13:02:40 1998
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To: dandl@crcwnet.com, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Rodeo Patterns
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 15:02:52 EDT
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In a message dated 98-04-08 13:24:13 EDT, dandl@crcwnet.com writes:

<< A customer of ours is interested in a pattern which contains a cowboy
 riding a bucking bull or horse.  Any suggestions?
 
 dave & lynn
  >>

Hi - if a SG pattern doesn't exist, you may want to look at some of the
children's coloring books - the kind for the younger crowd - there usually is
not a whole lot of detail in those.  Just a suggestion.   Margaret
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From owner-glass Wed Apr  8 13:33:02 1998
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From: glasschic <joyce@mail.bright.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: stepping stone stability
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 15:09:04 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <3.0.16.19980408134532.191feddc@mail.bright.net>
Precedence: bulk

At 11:44 AM 4/8/98 EDT, Margaret41 wrote:
>In a message dated 98-04-08 08:55:40 EDT, Ensembles@compuserve.com writes:
>
><< broke it.  :-(  I'm very unhappy with Quick-Crete.
> My most successful ones do have the chicken wire
> reinforced inside, and also have a good layer of concrete.
> I've switched brands of concrete to "Rapid Set Concrete
> Mix" (recommended by a concrete professional).  It's
> used to patch airport runways, so I believe it's strong
> enough to withstand foot traffic.  I'll let you know how
> it turns out.
> 
> Christie A. Wood >>
>
>Yes I'd be very interested to know how Rapid Set Concret Mix works compared
>with the Quick-Crete. We have Quick-crete laying around the house, but may
not
>be worth the effort. Please Let us know how you make out.   Margaret

I'm interested too in knowing results of anyone using Diamond Tech's cement
mix.  I have some left and I'm very curious.

Garden of Glass
Joyce Moran
Bellefontaine, OH
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From: Family Account <shad@mail2.nai.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Rodeo Patterns
Date: Wed, 08 Apr 1998 17:20:29 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr8.132029.0>
References: <<1998Apr8.21740.0>>
Precedence: bulk

The July 92 Spectrum pattern is a cowboy on a horse (not bucking,
though).  Might be up on Spectrum's page....has anyone checked to see how
far back they go?)  The July pattern was published in the June 15, 1992
Score.

Dorothy

Dave & Lynn Loda wrote:

> A customer of ours is interested in a pattern which contains a cowboy
> riding a bucking bull or horse.  Any suggestions?
>
> dave & lynn
>
> --
> ____________________
>
> Dave & Lynn Loda
> Art Glass of Wenatchee
> http://artglassw.com
> Stained Glass Gifts & Supplies
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass



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X-Path: glasstreasures.com!sgt
From: Stephanie Hansen <sgt@glasstreasures.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Anyone in/near Connecticut?
Date: Wed, 08 Apr 1998 16:29:52 -0500
Message-ID: <3.0.5.32.19980408162952.007b7900@glasstreasures.com>
Precedence: bulk

Hi folks.  Had an inquiry from one of my sweepstakes entrants asking about
repairs, which I don't do.  She lives in Groton, CT (near Mystic) and has a
need for repairs on the following (in her own words): "A large 2.5 x 5'
panel that I designed (but didn't make) has a broken corner and needs
structural support added."  That's all I know.

Anyone in the area interested in contacting her to help with the repair?
(or anyone want to ship that large a panel back and forth from CT to your
neck of the woods?)  E-mail me off list and I'll send her all names of
whoever contacts me and let her handle the direct inquiries.

Thanks!

Steph ~


-----------------------------------
Stephanie Hansen - Stained Glass Treasures/Dallas, TX
Affordable stained glass pieces for gifts or personal use
Enter the sweepstakes to win a stained glass suncatcher!
<mailto:sgt@glasstreasures.com>   <http://glasstreasures.com/>
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From owner-glass Wed Apr  8 16:19:49 1998
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X-Path: flinet.com!kenneil
From: Ken Neil <kenneil@flinet.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: *HELP*small candle holders
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 18:09:35 -0500
Message-ID: <v03110700b151b2ebca9f@[208.14.26.71]>
Precedence: bulk

Hi everyone,
I have been doing stained glass for almost a year now and I have really
been bitten by the glass bug!!  I have not made any boxes or candle holders
yet and would like to make a couple for Easter as gifts.  Can anyone out
there put into simple beginner words on how to make a small candle holder.
I'm just basically talking about a square with mirror on the bottom and
four sides,  it will hold one of those small candles.  Would appreciate any
help!!  Love the group...just can't seem to keep up with reading all the
posts.  Thanks in advance..Brenda;-)

********************************************************************
		Been There........
				Done That!
Ken Neil
Jupiter, Florida
********************************************************************


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From owner-glass Wed Apr  8 16:49:30 1998
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From: Jackie Brooks <jbrooks@cgo.wave.ca>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Grozing Pliers
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 18:38:04 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr8.14384.0>
Precedence: bulk

To break glass using my grozing pliers, I have always used them with the 
round side on the bottom of the glass. I just read that the round side 
should be on top. Have I been using them incorrectly all this time? 
Confused.

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From owner-glass Wed Apr  8 17:45:26 1998
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X-Path: az.stratus.com!charlie
From: Charles Spitzer <charlie@az.stratus.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: Re: Grozing Pliers
Date: Wed,  8 Apr 98 16:55:05 -0700
Message-ID: <m0yN4gO-000LiCC@why.az.stratus.com>
References: <<1998Apr8.14384.0>>
Organization: Customer Assistance Center, Stratus Computer, Inc.
Precedence: bulk

You wrote:
> To break glass using my grozing pliers, I have always used them with the
> round side on the bottom of the glass. I just read that the round side
> should be on top. Have I been using them incorrectly all this time?

actually these are combination grozing and breaking pliers. true grozers are  
flat on both sides.

you should be using them to break with the flat side up and breaking  
downwards. you can hold them either way to do grozing.

---
Charles Spitzer
charlie@az.stratus.com
Phoenix, AZ
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From owner-glass Wed Apr  8 18:22:28 1998
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X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: Jackie Brooks <jbrooks@cgo.wave.ca>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Grozing Pliers
Date: Wed, 08 Apr 1998 20:11:58 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr8.161158.0>
References: <<1998Apr8.14384.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Jackie Brooks wrote:
> 
> To break glass using my grozing pliers, I have always used them with the
> round side on the bottom of the glass. I just read that the round side
> should be on top. Have I been using them incorrectly all this time?
> Confused.
> 
> ----
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generally the round part is on top. if it's on the bottom, then it's
used for grozing. there may be unwanted grozing with the curve at the
bottom. but if it works for you, then fine...

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
2-2-98 New Pages Added: 22 New Stained Glass Links, 7 New Projects Added
and My Updated Shop Photo's
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From owner-glass Wed Apr  8 18:42:55 1998
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X-Path: juno.com!jroey
From: jroey@juno.com (jerri m Roey)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: brittle glass?
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 19:51:38 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr8.155138.0>
Precedence: bulk

	I have a question about some glass that broke.  I'd made three
fused snowflakes.  Two were made out of clear Uroboros, and one was made
out of a clear gluechip.  I was experimenting with the gluechip and found
it to be a much harder glass, requiring a higher temperature (I think I
went 1500 degrees higher, and both soaked for 30m),  and even then, it
still didn't get as soft around the edges as the Uroboros did.

	I don't know if the above had anything to do with what happened,
but I had the three snowflakes wrapped in cloth and in a box, and took
them with me to show a friend.  The drive was about an hour away, so they
did get jostled a bit in the car.  Well, the gluechip snowflake broke
into several pieces. (sigh)  The other two are fine.  Does anyone have
any opinions as to why this happened? Is the gluechip a more brittle or
less stable glass?  Is it not for fusing?  Any ideas?

Thanks,
Jerri

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From owner-glass Wed Apr  8 18:56:53 1998
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X-Path: lisnet.net!karinal
From: Karina <karinal@lisnet.net>
To: Ken Neil <kenneil@flinet.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="------------073DE14E6D6F68353120E991"
Subject: Re: *HELP*small candle holders
Date: Wed, 08 Apr 1998 20:59:56 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr8.165956.0>
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Precedence: bulk


--------------073DE14E6D6F68353120E991
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit



Ken Neil wrote:

> Hi everyone,
> I have been doing stained glass for almost a year now and I have really
> been bitten by the glass bug!!  I have not made any boxes or candle holders
> yet and would like to make a couple for Easter as gifts.  Can anyone out
> there put into simple beginner words on how to make a small candle holder.
> I'm just basically talking about a square with mirror on the bottom and
> four sides,  it will hold one of those small candles.  Would appreciate any
> help!!  Love the group...just can't seem to keep up with reading all the
> posts.  Thanks in advance..Brenda;-)
>

  I've found that one of the best books on the market is Carolyn Kyle presents
"Stained Glass Boxes Simplified" by J. Floyd (provided it's still available).It
contains numerous 'formulas" for building 3-D projects. There are so many ways
to build boxes, etc...it's up to you how to do it. But one thing to remember is
that you have to 'seal' the sides of mirror once it is cut, or any flux, water
( when rinsing ) could be trapped withing the foil and the mirror....known as
"black spot". There are sprays  etc you can buy from your supplier, but what I
use is plain  clear nail polish ( cheap ) to cover the cut edge. You want to
make sure you seal the silver backing on the mirror...hope this
helps.....Karina

--------------073DE14E6D6F68353120E991
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<HTML>
&nbsp;

<P>Ken Neil wrote:
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE>Hi everyone,
<BR>I have been doing stained glass for almost a year now and I have really
<BR>been bitten by the glass bug!!&nbsp; I have not made any boxes or candle
holders
<BR>yet and would like to make a couple for Easter as gifts.&nbsp; Can
anyone out
<BR>there put into simple beginner words on how to make a small candle
holder.
<BR>I'm just basically talking about a square with mirror on the bottom
and
<BR>four sides,&nbsp; it will hold one of those small candles.&nbsp; Would
appreciate any
<BR>help!!&nbsp; Love the group...just can't seem to keep up with reading
all the
<BR>posts.&nbsp; Thanks in advance..Brenda;-)
<BR><A HREF="http://www.bungi.com/glass"></A>&nbsp;</BLOCKQUOTE>
&nbsp; I've found that one of the best books on the market is Carolyn Kyle
presents "Stained Glass Boxes Simplified" by J. Floyd (provided it's still
available).It contains numerous 'formulas" for building 3-D projects. There
are so many ways to build boxes, etc...it's up to you how to do it. But
one thing to remember is that you have to 'seal' the sides of mirror once
it is cut, or any flux, water ( when rinsing ) could be trapped withing
the foil and the mirror....known as "black spot". There are sprays&nbsp;
etc you can buy from your supplier, but what I use is plain&nbsp; clear
nail polish ( cheap ) to cover the cut edge. You want to make sure you
seal the silver backing on the mirror...hope this helps.....Karina</HTML>

--------------073DE14E6D6F68353120E991--

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From owner-glass Wed Apr  8 19:25:23 1998
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X-Path: aol.com!WhispyBlu
From: Whispy Blu <WhispyBlu@aol.com>
To: jbrooks@cgo.wave.ca, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Grozing Pliers
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 20:36:31 EDT
Message-ID: <1998Apr9.03631.0>
Precedence: bulk

In a message dated 4/8/98 6:50:35 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
jbrooks@cgo.wave.ca writes:

<< I just read that the round side 
 should be on top. >>

Where did you read this?  If you're wrong so am I for over 5 years.

Lu Ann
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From owner-glass Wed Apr  8 19:39:27 1998
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X-Path: juno.com!dodgestudio
From: dodgestudio@juno.com
To: jbrooks@cgo.wave.ca
Subject: Re: Grozing Pliers
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 20:32:01 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr8.16321.0>
References: <<1998Apr8.14384.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Jackie,

Use the flat jaw on top for breaking operations and the curved jaw on top
for grozing work.


Gary Dodge              Dodge Studio Designs

http://www.dodgestudio.com

On Wed, 8 Apr 1998 18:38:04 -0400 Jackie Brooks <jbrooks@cgo.wave.ca>
writes:
>To break glass using my grozing pliers, I have always used them with 
>the 
>round side on the bottom of the glass. I just read that the round side 
>
>should be on top. Have I been using them incorrectly all this time? 
>Confused.

_____________________________________________________________________
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From owner-glass Wed Apr  8 19:46:06 1998
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X-Path: lisnet.net!karinal
From: Karina <karinal@lisnet.net>
To: Jackie Brooks <jbrooks@cgo.wave.ca>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Grozing Pliers
Date: Wed, 08 Apr 1998 20:36:41 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr8.163641.0>
References: <<1998Apr8.14384.0>>
Precedence: bulk



Jackie Brooks wrote:

> To break glass using my grozing pliers, I have always used them with the
> round side on the bottom of the glass. I just read that the round side
> should be on top. Have I been using them incorrectly all this time?
> Confused.
>

I find using the round side of the pliers has always worked better for
me.....I find that side works as a fulcrum. I tell my students the same.
Whenever I find someone having problems with  breaking glass and they are
using the round side up, I mention to switch their pliers around....and
usually they say it works better for them....but then you have to find the
best way that works for you.

~Karina~

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From owner-glass Thu Apr  9 00:20:49 1998
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X-Path: teleport.com!weaver51
From: "Howard and Elaine Rubin" <weaver51@teleport.com>
To: "glass@ bungie.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Grozing Pliers
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 22:19:36 -0700
Message-ID: <1998Apr8.151936.0>
Precedence: bulk

Over the years I have tried, modified and worn out a few grozing pliers.

I have finally found a set I like and they DO work.

They will groze and or nibble and allow me to pull off thin straight pieces
as well as INSIDE deep curves (my meager skills also play a factor).

I matters not which way you hold them because the jaws are symmetrical, but
how far into or over your score line you are is the critical factor in their
breaking or grozing.

They were named "fishlips" by the company that was/is selling them.

I bought 24 of them just to have them should they disappear from production
(usually because they work too well and people stop buying the "newest" tool
because they like the old ones).

Note: this is not a solicitation, but I do have a few left!

enjoy, H

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From: Rick Lasita <pebble@fuse.net>
To: Jackie Brooks <jbrooks@cgo.wave.ca>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Grozing Pliers
Date: Thu, 09 Apr 1998 06:09:30 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr9.2930.0>
References: <<1998Apr8.14384.0>>
Organization: Window Art GLass Studio
Precedence: bulk

Jackie Brooks wrote:
> 
> To break glass using my grozing pliers, I have always used them with the
> round side on the bottom of the glass. 

Jackie,

Though I use breaking pliers, I understand that the rounded side is on
the bottom for grozinf, and on the top for breaking. For what it's
worth.

Rick
http://home.fuse.net/crafts/index.html
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From owner-glass Thu Apr  9 10:09:47 1998
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X-Path: teleport.com!weaver51
From: "Howard and Elaine Rubin" <weaver51@teleport.com>
To: "glass@ bungie.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: gone but missed
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1998 09:17:40 -0700
Message-ID: <1998Apr9.21740.0>
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I checked with one of the my suppliers who USED to have fishlips and they
have been DISCONTINUED!!!

Sorry for getting your collective checkbooks open.

I am will check and see if any other places have any left.

Enjoy, H

PS....perhaps the fish huggers banded together and stopped the use of lips
from a fish as a "tool", or at least by name without investigating what they
really were, or as I posted earlier, a good tool needs to be replaced with
inferior ones that need to be replaced with another one and so on!

Ever cynical...........H

weaver51@teleport.com
http://www.teleport.com/~cbs/howard
enmeshed in the internet
trapped in the world wide web


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X-Path: crcwnet.com!dandl
From: Dave & Lynn Loda <dandl@crcwnet.com>
To: Whispy Blu <WhispyBlu@aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Grozing Pliers
Date: Thu, 09 Apr 1998 09:21:32 -0700
Message-ID: <1998Apr9.22132.0>
References: <<1998Apr9.03631.0>>
Organization: Art Glass of Wenatchee
Precedence: bulk

As I said many times before when this question have been asked of me,
try it both ways and use the method which works for you.  Either that,
or throw away all you projects you made doing it the "wrong" way. :)

Dave

Whispy Blu wrote:

> In a message dated 4/8/98 6:50:35 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
> jbrooks@cgo.wave.ca writes:
>
> << I just read that the round side
>  should be on top. >>
>
> Where did you read this?  If you're wrong so am I for over 5 years.
>
> Lu Ann
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass



--
____________________

Dave & Lynn Loda
Art Glass of Wenatchee
http://artglassw.com
Stained Glass Gifts & Supplies


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From owner-glass Thu Apr  9 16:14:58 1998
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From: Susan Mankin <smankin@wscc.edu>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: labels
Date: Thu, 09 Apr 1998 16:55:59 -0700
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Precedence: bulk

Hi all, I have a question regarding product labels. I am trying to design a
catchy label for stained glass pieces and would like the groups input. I am
going to use a business card size area to work with and since I am new to
the field all help will be appreciated.. Thanks in advance.. Susan

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X-Path: bcinternet.net!cpesonen
From: cpesonen@bcinternet.net (Cindy Pesonen)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: brittle glass?
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1998 17:08:12 -0700 (PDT)
Message-ID: <199804100008.RAA26947@ns2.vphos.net>
Precedence: bulk

>To: jroey@juno.com (jerri m Roey)
>From: cpesonen@bcinternet.net (Cindy Pesonen)
>Subject: Re: brittle glass?
>
>Hi Jerri,
>I've never fused glue chip but I can't see what the problem would be unless
you had some other type of glass with it. Glue chip I believe would be
(window) float glass...I glue chip my own glass and that's what I use. It is
harder than stained glass. If it didn't round the edges is must not have
been finished.
>Sometimes if it's not a full fuse it can break. Had that happen to me once,
trying to fuse and slump at the same time!! (Good way to tell if something
is okay is, wrap it up in paper or a towel and put it in the freezer for
awhile, if it's not it'll crack).
Are you keeping a note book:)
Cindy



>>	I have a question about some glass that broke.  I'd made three
>>fused snowflakes.  Two were made out of clear Uroboros, and one was made
>>out of a clear gluechip.  I was experimenting with the gluechip and found
>>it to be a much harder glass, requiring a higher temperature (I think I
>>went 1500 degrees higher, and both soaked for 30m),  and even then, it
>>still didn't get as soft around the edges as the Uroboros did.
>>
>>	I don't know if the above had anything to do with what happened,
>>but I had the three snowflakes wrapped in cloth and in a box, and took
>>them with me to show a friend.  The drive was about an hour away, so they
>>did get jostled a bit in the car.  Well, the gluechip snowflake broke
>>into several pieces. (sigh)  The other two are fine.  Does anyone have
>>any opinions as to why this happened? Is the gluechip a more brittle or
>>less stable glass?  Is it not for fusing?  Any ideas?
>>
>>Thanks,
>>Jerri
>>
>>_____________________________________________________________________
>>You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
>>Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
>>Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
>>
>>----
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>>
>>

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From owner-glass Thu Apr  9 19:39:10 1998
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X-Path: eatumup.com!byronw
From: byronw@eatumup.com (Byron Wells)
To: "glass@ bungie.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Saw Dust
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1998 21:00:50 -0500
Message-ID: <1998Apr9.16050.0>
Precedence: bulk

Does anyone here use sawdust instead of whiting to clean lead panels?? I'm
wondering how well it works as I'm tired of the huge dusty mess from the
whiting all the time...

Byron...


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From owner-glass Thu Apr  9 20:02:21 1998
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From: byronw@eatumup.com (Byron Wells)
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Rodeo Patterns
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1998 20:58:32 -0500
Message-ID: <1998Apr9.155832.0>
Precedence: bulk

If you cant find what you need in a stained glass book try scrollsaw pattern
books... Ther are quite a few werstern scenes in them...

Byron...

-----Original Message-----
From: Dave & Lynn Loda <dandl@crcwnet.com>
To: glass@bungi.com <glass@bungi.com>
Date: Wednesday, April 08, 1998 4:00 AM
Subject: Rodeo Patterns


>A customer of ours is interested in a pattern which contains a cowboy
>riding a bucking bull or horse.  Any suggestions?
>
>dave & lynn
>
>--
>____________________
>
>Dave & Lynn Loda
>Art Glass of Wenatchee
>http://artglassw.com
>Stained Glass Gifts & Supplies
>
>
>----
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From owner-glass Thu Apr  9 21:12:12 1998
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From: Margaret41 <Margaret41@aol.com>
To: smankin@wscc.edu, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: labels
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1998 22:58:44 EDT
Message-ID: <1998Apr10.25844.0>
Precedence: bulk

just an fyi--you can purchase brass engraved solderable labels - i think i saw
it in the meredith catalog. i think they were about 1/4 inch tall. 
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From owner-glass Thu Apr  9 21:44:43 1998
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X-Path: bcinternet.net!cpesonen
From: cpesonen@bcinternet.net (Cindy Pesonen)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Saw Dust
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1998 21:08:23 -0700 (PDT)
Message-ID: <199804100408.VAA22984@ns2.vphos.net>
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>X-From_: owner-glass@daver.bungi.com Thu Apr  9 19:43:57 1998
>Return-Path: owner-glass@daver.bungi.com
>X-Path: eatumup.com!byronw
>From: byronw@eatumup.com (Byron Wells)
>To: "glass@ bungie.com" <glass@bungi.com>
>Subject: Saw Dust
>Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1998 21:00:50 -0500
>Precedence: bulk

>Hi Byron,
Sawdust is supposed to work, but whiting aids in the drying process of the
putty and it actually helps clean up the lead. How much of it do you use, I
try to use very little and work it around with a rag instead of a brush.
Cleanup isn't too bad, just wipe with my soft table brush and light vaccum.
Cindy 

>Does anyone here use sawdust instead of whiting to clean lead panels?? I'm
>wondering how well it works as I'm tired of the huge dusty mess from the
>whiting all the time...
>
>Byron...
>
>
>----
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>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
>

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From owner-glass Fri Apr 10 00:42:42 1998
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X-Path: netbridge.net!balloch
From: Shirley Balloch <balloch@netbridge.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: wholesale price
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1998 00:10:57 -0700
Message-ID: <1998Apr9.171057.0>
Organization: Maiden Concepts
Precedence: bulk

If your rule of thumb is to charge $1.50 per piece, then what would you
charge wholesale per peice and would you add the cost of the glass.  I
am talking about small items, suncatchers and castings esp.
Thanks in advance.
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From owner-glass Fri Apr 10 04:16:24 1998
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Jackie Brooks <jbrooks@cgo.wave.ca>
Subject: Re: Grozing Pliers
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1998 07:32:41 +0100
Message-ID: <1998Apr9.83241.0>
References: <<1998Apr8.14384.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk

Jackie,

Both ways work.  It depends on what you are doing, what gives clean
breaks, etc.  Often using the curved side up is the only way to get into
a deep inside curve to bread out the "fish scale" relief curves.  If it
works, use it.

I tend to use the round side up when holding the "waste" portion of the
glass, but the flat when holding the "wanted" portion, often with a
cloth in the jaws, especially when it is a thin sliver or wedge.

Steve
--------
In message <1998Apr8.14384.0@?>, Jackie Brooks <jbrooks@cgo.wave.ca>
writes
>To break glass using my grozing pliers, I have always used them with the 
>round side on the bottom of the glass. I just read that the round side 
>should be on top. Have I been using them incorrectly all this time? 
>Confused.
>
>----
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-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Fri Apr 10 05:50:42 1998
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X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: labels
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1998 08:20:20 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr10.42020.0>
Precedence: bulk

Message text written by Susan Mankin
>I am trying to design a
catchy label for stained glass pieces and would like the groups input. I =
am
going to use a business card size area to work with...<

I also use a business card-sized label for my own works.
I try to use a colorful card stock which sort of looks like
stained glass.  So I chose "Watercolors" pattern card stock
from Paper Direct.  They are a mail-order paper company
which carries well over 500 different beautiful card stock
designs which you can use in your computer printer.
Paper Direct can be reached at 1-800-APAPERS.

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles, P.O.Box 903, Skippack, PA 19474-0903
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From owner-glass Fri Apr 10 06:24:15 1998
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X-Path: sol.racsa.co.cr!rlaval
From: Richard LaVal <rlaval@sol.racsa.co.cr>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Subject: Re: Too much grinding Not enough cutting!
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1998 06:47:38 -0600 (CST)
Message-ID: <1.5.4.16.19980410065010.2ddffb78@sol.racsa.co.cr>
Precedence: bulk

YOU SAID;
 To see such a thing reduced to a mass
produced factory generated item does no service to our craft or to the
unfortunate workers who are in this assembly line situation and can never
master the entire process.  Ok, thats the end of my rant...I will leave my
soapbox now  <<G>>>

Yes, to the craft no.... but remember that this is the only way to scrabble
for a little food to stay alive, for most of these people, and they could
NEVER aspire to being a craftsman themselves, no matter they want too.
Those of us who have the education, and money to enable us to recognize and
purchase something better should want to do so, and not settle for something
second rate,  for those that can't tell the difference, maybe they wouldn't
pay the higher price for better quality anyway!!! Meg
 REMEMBER: "Bats bite bugs best!"
    =BF?=BF?=BF?=BF?=BF?=BF?=BF?=BF?=BF?=BF?=BF?=BF?=BF?=BF?=BF?
  Richard LaVal and Meg Wallace
               apdo. 24-5655
       Monteverde, Puntarenas
               COSTA RICA
              phone 645 5052

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From owner-glass Fri Apr 10 06:57:15 1998
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X-Path: aol.com!Margaret41
From: Margaret41 <Margaret41@aol.com>
To: Ensembles@compuserve.com, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: labels
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1998 09:15:25 EDT
Message-ID: <1998Apr10.131525.0>
Precedence: bulk

In a message dated 98-04-10 08:51:14 EDT, Ensembles@compuserve.com writes:

<< I also use a business card-sized label for my own works.
 I try to use a colorful card stock which sort of looks like
 stained glass.  So I chose "Watercolors" pattern card stock
 from Paper Direct.  They are a mail-order paper company
 which carries well over 500 different beautiful card stock
 designs which you can use in your computer printer.
 Paper Direct can be reached at 1-800-APAPERS.
 
 Christie A. Wood >>

Hi - I may be missing this thread or haven't read all - confused - do you
apply the business card to your sg piece...if so, with just regular glue?
Thanks
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From owner-glass Fri Apr 10 08:11:55 1998
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X-Path: thezone.net!robertcrane
From: Robert Crane <robertcrane@thezone.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: help with a little info
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1998 12:08:35 -0230
Message-ID: <1998Apr10.92035.0>
Organization: thezone
Precedence: bulk

I am one of these lurkers and have seen directions for making putty for
outside windows on bungi, but when I went to reread the directions, I
could not find them. Could someone help and tell me what month these
directions were posted on bungi? thanks in anticipation.

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From owner-glass Fri Apr 10 12:47:07 1998
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X-Path: infinet.com!glasscat
From: Carolyn Noel <glasscat@infinet.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: sealer
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1998 15:07:49 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr10.11749.0>
Organization: The Stained Glass Place
Precedence: bulk

Hi everyone:
A question: has anyone ever heard of using Butil (not sure of spelling)
for sealing windows together. It apparently was used until the early
'70's to seal or "glue" car windshields in place. Now I've heard that
it's being used as an adhesive for layering glass. As in:
         _____________________________________________
          
         -------------stained glass panel-------------
         _____________________________________________

The Butil is "taped" along the face of the zinc or lead (front and back)
of the stained glass panel then sandwiched between the protective sheets
of tempered or regular glass. From what I've heard, it makes a great
sealant. Anyone else know anything about it?
Carolyn
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From owner-glass Fri Apr 10 13:21:32 1998
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From: DMR74 <DMR74@aol.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: *HELP*small candle holders
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1998 15:40:45 EDT
Message-ID: <1998Apr10.194045.0>
Precedence: bulk

Ken,
since no one is exactly telling you how to do it I will try couse its easy.
first decide how big you want it , I got a votive candle holder and made the
bottom mirror slightly bigger and SQUARE.  now check for hight you also want
the top edge to be at least 3/4 inch talller.  so now cut 2 pieces for front
and back with these measurements and then 2 side pieces cut 1/4 of an inch
less.  This will let the side pieces fit inbetweeen the front and back.  After
foiling tin the edges cause they will show through on some sides and your
solder might not seep through at the seams.  Now assemble.  I use a wooden box
to assemble putting the mirror bottom down flat and then do each side rotating
to the corner for a good fit.
  Try using one different piece of glass for the back and then similar for the
sides and front  makes it a little interesting you may even use mirror on the
back to reflect even more light.  and Remember to vaccinate the edges of your
mirror to prevent your mirror from catching the creaping black goop disease
deb
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From owner-glass Fri Apr 10 13:40:17 1998
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X-Path: compuserve.com!GreerStudios
From: "Michael J. Greer" <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: help with a little info
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1998 15:31:35 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr10.113135.0>
Precedence: bulk

Robert-

Are you asking about the cement
recipe that is used on all came
windows?  I don't recall in the last
year a putty recipe to be used =

outside.

Best regards,

Dani Greer
Greer Gallery & Studios
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From owner-glass Fri Apr 10 13:49:01 1998
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X-Path: compuserve.com!GreerStudios
From: "Michael J. Greer" <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: All <GLASS@BUNGI.COM>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Whiting vs. Sawdust
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1998 15:31:27 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr10.113127.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hi!

We use sawdust in a pinch for =

cement clean-up, but I find that
the whiting polishes up the lead
a lot nicer.  You can't get that
fabulous burnish with sawdust.
Plus, we use the gray and used
whiting that's leftover to make the
next batch of cement.  Just my 2c
worth.  Also,  bought a 50 pound of
whiting at the local ceramic supplier
for $9!  A little tip I got from pj friend
a while back.

Best regards,

Dani Greer
Greer Gallery & Studios
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From owner-glass Fri Apr 10 14:08:05 1998
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X-Path: bcinternet.net!cpesonen
From: cpesonen@bcinternet.net (Cindy Pesonen)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: sealer
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1998 13:24:40 -0700 (PDT)
Message-ID: <199804102024.NAA11140@ns2.vphos.net>
Precedence: bulk

>X-From_: owner-glass@daver.bungi.com Fri Apr 10 12:54:13 1998
>Return-Path: owner-glass@daver.bungi.com
>X-Path: infinet.com!glasscat
>From: Carolyn Noel <glasscat@infinet.com>
>To: glass@bungi.com
>Subject: sealer
>Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1998 15:07:49 -0400
>Organization: The Stained Glass Place
>Precedence: bulk
> 
Hi Carolyn,
Yes, it called butyl tape, Soimaca makes it under the name "super seal", pti
calls it black butyl setting tape, Tremco it's tremsheild and 3M it's windo-weld
Cindy




>Hi everyone:
>A question: has anyone ever heard of using Butil (not sure of spelling)
>for sealing windows together. It apparently was used until the early
>'70's to seal or "glue" car windshields in place. Now I've heard that
>it's being used as an adhesive for layering glass. As in:
>         _____________________________________________
>          
>         -------------stained glass panel-------------
>         _____________________________________________
>
>The Butil is "taped" along the face of the zinc or lead (front and back)
>of the stained glass panel then sandwiched between the protective sheets
>of tempered or regular glass. From what I've heard, it makes a great
>sealant. Anyone else know anything about it?
>Carolyn
>----
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>
>

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From owner-glass Fri Apr 10 18:00:35 1998
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From: Kris <kristc@home.com>
To: DMR74 <DMR74@aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: *HELP*small candle holders
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1998 19:54:50 -0400
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Thanks for the instructions that I also found helpful. I don't know what
vaccinate means though. Could you explain? Thanks :)
Kris


  and Remember to vaccinate the edges of your
> mirror to prevent your mirror from catching the creaping black goop disease
> deb
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From owner-glass Fri Apr 10 23:05:07 1998
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From: Carl Childers <shyguy@vdot.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: *HELP*small candle holders
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1998 23:58:23 -0400
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You might want to try to find a pattern book called 'Candlelight Designs' from
Walrus publications. I found it a W/C, and  my local supplier. It's got some
simple ones made from bevels and globs, and more challenging designs with cut
pieces.
I am not affiliated with any of the above, but I made a slew of these for the last
holday season as gifts, and they got a great reception.
   --
'Every (person) must decide whether to walk in the light of creative
altruism or the darkness of selfishness. This is the judgement. Life's
most persistent and urgent question is "What are you doing for
others?' "Rev. Dr. Martin Luther King Jr.


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From owner-glass Sat Apr 11 03:34:07 1998
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: help with a little info
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@pop3.nildram.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 1998 10:41:36 +0000
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Hi Robert (et al) I

There was quite a lively debate on SG cement in May 97 .
Dani (Greer) finally compiled the various options in her posting on 
17th June 97, and included recommendations by Julie Sloan.
So have another look in the archives.
(Don't use Portland cement in your mix, though!!)

My computer is going to the "brain surgeon" for upgrading later today 
and so I won't be able to respond to any further questions you might 
have until end next week (Windows 95! Here we come!! <gulp>)
Happy Easter everybody!

Spent Good Friday attending Bach's St.Matthew Passion......
Elisabeth 'n Toby in UK


Robert wrote:
. am one of these lurkers and have seen directions for 
making putty for outside windows on bungi, but when I went to reread 
the directions, I could not find them. Could someone help and tell me 
what month these directions were posted on bungi? thanks in 
anticipation.

----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
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From owner-glass Sat Apr 11 07:05:18 1998
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X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Grozing Pliers
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 1998 09:44:48 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr11.54448.0>
Precedence: bulk

Jackie Brooks asked about which side to use on
grozing pliers.

I use the flat side up.
Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles, P.O.Box 903, Skippack, PA 19474-0903

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From owner-glass Sat Apr 11 10:06:11 1998
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Subject: Butyl
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 1998 12:35:46 -0400
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Thank you, everyone, for your input and info on Butyl! I really
appreciate it. It makes life a little easier knowing there are people
aren't there willing to share their ideas and information. The bungi
group has quite a "storehouse" of both!!
Carolyn
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From owner-glass Sat Apr 11 12:07:06 1998
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From: Stephanie Hansen <sgt@glasstreasures.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Old chemicals and foil
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 1998 13:41:48 -0500
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Precedence: bulk

Afternoon, everyone.  Does anyone know how long of a "shelf life" copper
foil has?  I recently bought a whole bunch of glass and old supplies from a
guy who hasn't even used his stuff in about 5 years.  There's about 15
rolls of various foils in unopened packages, could be anywhere from 5 years
to 9 years old.  I know opened packages can go "bad" (oxydize?) after a
period of time, but wasn't sure if there was an expiration date for
unopened packages.

There were also some chemicals (patina, stain remover and cutter oil) that
I don't even want to chance using, but I'm not sure how to dispose of them
safely.  Anyone know?

Thanks!

Steph ~


-----------------------------------
Stephanie Hansen - Stained Glass Treasures/Dallas, TX
Affordable stained glass pieces for gifts or personal use
Enter the sweepstakes to win a stained glass suncatcher!
<http://glasstreasures.com/>   <mailto:sgt@glasstreasures.com>

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From owner-glass Sat Apr 11 14:13:15 1998
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Subject: Bio #10 Valerie Tydings Phelps
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 1998 03:28:05 -0500
Message-ID: <1998Apr11.22285.0>
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Dear All,
I have 2 things to share, (well actually more but I'll try to limit it
to just two for now anyhow!)

1) I love how bungians are so experimental: Lemon Juice Flux, Soot & Wax

Patina, scoring and cutting practice on ice, hot & cold glass cutting,
Homemade Cement Recipes, Scrap Yard Light Tables,
'Down-to-the-Last-Tiny-Bit' Glass Use Ideas... Y'all are the greatest!!!

2) A little more about my background. I'm one of those addictive
personalities, i.e. "Hi my name is Valerie and I'm a glassaholic", OR
"Hi my name is Valerie and I'm a computerholic." These two things are
completely interchangable with me. I am completely and totally in love
with both. I developed the curriculum for, and teach Computer Resource
classes 3 days a week at a local private school to grades K-8. I teach
everything from graphics manipulation to presentation, word-processing
to spreadsheets, HTML and writing for the Web to desktop publishing for
the yearbook and school paper. I'm also crazy about children but can't
have any more. I'm thankful to have been blessed with a 16 year old son,

(most of the time!<BG>)  I have a wonderful husband who is a building
contractor, and he even built my studios for me when I went
professional! He bought my first grinder for me too, what a PEACH, eh?
We bought a 120 year old post-Civil War house (USA Civil War that is,)
to renovate and restore. (It still contains the original hand-cast glass

in 70-75 percent of the [32] 6-over-6 wood windows too! YUMMY!)

I started learning how to cut and work with glass when I was 12 and it
came so naturally that I took it for granted for a while. I eventually
began to realize that I could actually be artistic for the very first
time in my life. That only with wonderful glass, lead, solder, and my
own imagination, I could create something truly beautiful and carry that

translation over in such a way that almost anyone could see and
appreciate just what *I saw!! It was an incredible revelation for me. I
had always been able to see beauty and appreciate beauty which others
had the talent to create; but I had never been successful at trying to
create anything of beauty myself--until I got serious about stained
glass. It changed my life. It stretches me, encourages me, frees me,
limits me gently, grows me. Here's one of the loveliest things... I can
say those same things about bungi when it's at it's best. Wow. Thank you

all so much! Thanks for sharing, in my life, my enthusiasm, my
irritation(s), my befuddlement(s), and my glass work. I remain indebted
and indeed, grateful.

Always,
Valerie Tydings Phelps

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From owner-glass Sat Apr 11 14:26:57 1998
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From: Susan Mankin <smankin@wscc.edu>
To: Margaret41 <Margaret41@aol.com>,Ensembles@compuserve.com,glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: labels
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 1998 14:22:58 -0700
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The card would be attatched with gold thread through the chain or whatever
you attatch to hang it with. Susan







At 09:15 AM 4/10/98 EDT, Margaret41 wrote:
>In a message dated 98-04-10 08:51:14 EDT, Ensembles@compuserve.com writes:
>
><< I also use a business card-sized label for my own works.
> I try to use a colorful card stock which sort of looks like
> stained glass.  So I chose "Watercolors" pattern card stock
> from Paper Direct.  They are a mail-order paper company
> which carries well over 500 different beautiful card stock
> designs which you can use in your computer printer.
> Paper Direct can be reached at 1-800-APAPERS.
> 
> Christie A. Wood >>
>
>Hi - I may be missing this thread or haven't read all - confused - do you
>apply the business card to your sg piece...if so, with just regular glue?
>Thanks
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From owner-glass Sat Apr 11 14:39:33 1998
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Subject: Bio #11 Kathy Hupp
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 1998 03:36:08 -0500
Message-ID: <1998Apr11.22368.0>
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Hi All,

I'm Kathy Hupp. I live in Sandyville, WV. I've been married to my before

high school sweetheart, Jeff, for 19 years and have one 17 year old son,

Shane. Jeff does HVAC and Shane lives and breathes computers. Took me 5
years to catch Jeff. And a lot less than that to get Shane. Surprise!

Grew up in a small town in West Virginia. (There were twelve of us in
the 6th grade.)

School was lousey from junior high on up. Hated it. Kept a B average so
I wouldn't be grounded. Shane has been home schooled since the 6th grade

to
keep him from suffering the same fate.

At 19 I got married and Jeff and I built a house. Not the greatest house

but it's ours. We went to the woods, fell the trees and got them sawed
at a sawmill. I'd not advise building with green lumber, but it does
keep one from paying rent. And being able to afford your VERY OWN HOUSE
at the
tender age of 19. But a lot of problems at the age of 38. Warped boards,

you know.

Moved to Charlotte, NC in 1984. Came home in 1985. One year to the day
since I left. I had a deal with my husband to stay a year at least. That

was all he got. Came home and planted beans in August. They grew and I
had a crop before frost. Didn't expect one but I had to plant something.

I'm an avid gardner and I had been cut off for a year!

I have dabbled in woodworking. I got a Craftsman belt sander for
Christmas and was thrilled. So I got a router, jigsaw, bandsaw and kept
adding. Did woodworking for several years. I was a housewife then and
had
time to spare. But I also know how to build frames and such. Very handy
in the glass line.

I have tried crocheting and like it. Haven't made anything in years but
remember how. I've tried pen & ink, but seem to do only geese and
Dungeons and Dragons type stuff well. What a combo.

Spent the majority of my earlier years working as a clerk/cashier.
Followed Jeff and his work to Columbus, OH in 1991. Swore I'd never live

in a city again, and didn't go with him for 4 months. But I broke down
and went. We bought a wonderful house built in 1922 with leaded windows
all throughout the 1st floor. The OLD neighbors told me the stained
glass window in the livingroom was the only thing to ever be stolen from

it.
See, even thieves appreciate stained glass.

Spent 5 years there and wound up running the office for a chiropractor.
Ended up finding out he was a thief himself. I did his billing and it is

amazing what some doctors bill Medicade for. And Workers Comp and such.
So I confronted him with it, he didn't agree,... "everybody does it",...

and I quit on the spot. So much for the best paying job I've ever had.

One wonderful thing happened in Columbus. We got cable. Ooh, we don't
have cable in the country. I discovered Bob Ross on PBS. I can paint the

beautiful paintings that he did in 30 minutes in 3 hours. Sometimes 6
hours. But I use the big brushes and palette knifes and I CAN DO IT!!
One of my most sorrowful days was when I found he had died.

Even Jeff got tired of the city life and we moved home to our little ole

house with Shane kicking and screaming the whole way. I've been home
almost 2 years. I hatched chickens, grew a garden and things are pretty
much the way I like them.

Went to the garage to help my brother. He was studying to be a nurse and

couldn't do everything by himself. So I took over radiators. I can
repair and recore with the best of them, now. He totally abandoned the
shop so I took over everything. I now have a radiator and import auto
repair shop.
I grew up there since my Dad started it in 1963. If I get stuck I call
in the Master himself to help me out of a jam. He says something is
wrong with his childeren. His son is a nurse and his daughter is a
mechanic.
But he is lucky. His youngest daughter is assistant editor for NT
Solutins magazine, so all is not a loss.

Got into glass cause Jeff wanted to try it. I thought maybe I'd try to
do etching. I was sure I couldn't do glass. Surprise, surprise. I became

addicted. Now I have a glass setup on my enclosed porch and one at the
shop. I rented an extra room just for it, justifying it that I could
store used parts in it. There are a few, not many. I've finished maybe 8

panel lampshades, 2 windows for my porch, several panels, a dragon,
(it's my favorite) and etc. I've only done this for 6 months or so and
am extremely lucky to have found Bungi. I've learned an ocean worth from

you guys. Especially since I have purposely stuck myself out in the
sticks and am without many resourses.

I go to my first Arts and Crafts show in a month so have been kicking
butt trying to get ready. Hummingbirds, among other things. Lamps,
panels, stepping stones, anything I can thing of. I want to be ready.

I must say I get a double whammy from solder and flux since I am
involved with it during the day and the evening. Never gave it a thought

before. I mean after all, I've been seeing Dad so it since '63. But boy
does he harp at me. And now, after reading Bungi, I am very careful. You

won't catch me dredging through the radiator tank by hand anymore, anong

other things.

Maybe not the most exciting life in the world, but it's mine and I like
it. I don't mind getting up in the morning and seeing what the day
brings. (Usually!) Ha. And my father has helped me solder a lampshade
and is dabbling in stepping stones. My mother lives over an hour from
here and she is beginning lessons near her home in May. The art is
catching.
Even here.

P.S. I have 5 cats, Smooch, Smirk, Smiley, Snoop, and Snarf. All male.
Started out with one Josie that I picked up at a Go-Mart on the way to
work. Actually she picked me up. She beat me into the car.  I have one
9 year old goldfish, Flash. One 1 year old goldfish, Gordon. And 10
chickens. All hatched in an incubator by me. Am looking forward to
peacocks. But no dogs. The neighbors have 10 so I have plenty to visit
with. Since they seem to always be here.

Happy glassing,

Kathy

(Who being in the car business says HONDA, HONDA, HONDA. And yes thay
are made in America. In Marysville, OH. Tried taking the radiator off a
Corsica lately? Gag! Don't even allow them in my shop anymore.)

Sorry, thought I'd let a bit of my true self through. Not just my
keyboard image. Not nearly as nice as I my seem. Just ask Jeff or Shane.

But at least they say I'm not boring.



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From: Zane <sigglass@nb.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Fooled again
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 1998 17:04:19 -0500
Message-ID: <1998Apr11.12419.0>
References: <<3.0.5.32.19980411134148.007fe100@glasstreasures.com>>
Organization: Signature Glass Company
Precedence: bulk

Sorry, don't know if you people have heard yet, but the rumor about
Yough's stipple tank blowing up is bogus.  I just returned today from
Yough since I had to pick up a few things so I got the scoop straight
from the horses mouth.

Zane
Signature Glass
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From owner-glass Sat Apr 11 16:16:39 1998
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From: "suzy@comcat.com" <bits@ComCAT.COM>
To: "glass bungi line" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: Fooled again
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 98 18:39:57 +0100
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Zane said:
>Sorry, don't know if you people have heard yet, but the rumor about
>Yough's stipple tank blowing up is bogus.  I just returned today from
>Yough since I had to pick up a few things so I got the scoop straight
>from the horses mouth.

Thank God!
Thanks for telling us, Zane.
Suzanne





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From owner-glass Sat Apr 11 17:46:23 1998
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From: "Michael J. Greer" <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Fooled again
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 1998 19:57:18 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr11.155718.0>
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Hi Zane-

Thanks for straightening us out =

about Yough's stipple tank.  I'll =

call Artisans on Monday and tell
them to come up with a new =

marketing technique to sell stipple!

Happy Easter to all and LOVE =

those bios!  Thanks Patrick.

Best regards,

Dani Greer
Greer Gallery & Studios
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From owner-glass Sat Apr 11 18:02:10 1998
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From: Romajoco <Romajoco@aol.com>
To: bits@ComCAT.COM, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Fooled again
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 1998 20:16:30 EDT
Message-ID: <1998Apr12.01630.0>
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In a message dated 98-04-11 19:17:06 EDT, bits@ComCAT.COM writes:

<< the rumor about
 >Yough's stipple tank blowing up is bogus.   >>
Hi there.....that is one that I figured was an April Fools joke since it was
done on April 1st.

Margie
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From owner-glass Sat Apr 11 21:47:35 1998
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X-Path: home.com!kristc
From: Kris <kristc@home.com>
To: don@eve.corp.chescom.net
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: *HELP*small candle holders
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 1998 23:57:41 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr11.195741.0>
References: <<199804110824.DAA03316@eve.corp.chescom.net>>
Organization: @Home Network
Precedence: bulk

Sorry to bother the list, but email to the sender came back to me
undeliverable. 

Thanks for the info! I've had very good luck using electrical tape for
this sort of thing, but I'll have to experiment with chain, etc. in the
V. It sounds like I could do some cool things along this line. 

My question related to creeping black goop though, which sounds like
it's related to mirrors and can be prevented by vaccinating, and I don't
know what that is. 

Since I'm posting to the whole list I didn't edit the message in case
these instructions would also be helpful to someone else. I hope the
author doesn't mind and takes it as the compliment it is :)

Kris

don@eve.corp.chescom.net wrote:
> 
> Kris,
> 
> If you want your edges to be smooth and even, here's how I do it. (I
> can't claim to have thought of this myself, I got it from Dianna
> Barr).
> 
> Cut your four (or however many sides you want) the sizes you want.
> For a square, they should be equal.  Foil the edges.  Lay them flat,
> face UP.  Using vinyl electrical tape, put at least two strips of
> tape near the top and bottom of each piece sticking it to its
> naeghbor, and have two extra ready.  Make sure they are
> sticking tight and run nearly across the piece. (did I mention you
> need to be sure there is no oil, flux or other debris on the glass?)
> once those pieces are taped in place, raise up the top portion and
> gently form into the shape you want.  The tape will stretch a little
> making perfect angles with the inside of the glass touching, the
> outside will form a "V".  Tack solder the top and bottom of all
> joints, then turn the piece so that a seam is up and level. Remove
> the tape. Flux and fill the "V" with solder, smoothing well.  Raise a
> slight bead, turn and repeat for all corners. When done, set the
> piece upright on the glass you want to use for the bottom, using a
> sharpie pen or other felt marker, trace the inside and outside base.
> Cut between the lines, foil and attach.  Tin the top making sure to
> level the joins. This method produces a matrix that looks like the
> glass was inserted into it rather than looking like pieces of glass
> stuck together. I've also soldered ball chain into the "V"for a
> decorative edging, and I've twisted copper wire and inserted that,
> too.  The tape you use must be vinyl and allow for some stretching.
> 
> > From:          Kris <kristc@home.com>
> > To:            DMR74 <DMR74@aol.com>
> > Subject:       Re: *HELP*small candle holders
> > Date:          Fri, 10 Apr 1998 19:54:50 -0400
> > Organization:  @Home Network
> 
> > Thanks for the instructions that I also found helpful. I don't know what
> > vaccinate means though. Could you explain? Thanks :)
> > Kris
> >
> >
> >   and Remember to vaccinate the edges of your
> > > mirror to prevent your mirror from catching the creaping black goop disease
> > > deb
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> >
> 
> Don M. McDonald
> Director, Web Services
> Chesapeake Communications Corporation
> New Orleans, Louisiana
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From owner-glass Sat Apr 11 22:17:25 1998
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From: Goldpaws <gmanning@banet.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Easter Greeting for all & Toby
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 1998 00:55:38 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr11.205538.0>
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Happy Easter To all.
Goldpaws(Glass Nut)
Jim (Wonderful Hubby)
Megan & Nicholas (Golden Retrievers)
Mom said we might get in trouble for posting like this. Flamed- we love
BBQ
If she gets in trouble  we will  come after  you  and lick  and  kiss
you until you  are nice.
Hey we are Goldens.Watch It.
Just  want to say how much we learn  from bungi !
P.S. for Toby
Hope  you get great stuff in your Easter  basket!
Mom, said we were going to get stained glass eggs. Yuk- Yuk  We found
our baskets and sampled. We  just wanted to make sure there   were no
GLASS EGGS. We got really good stuff in ours, all edible .Hope you did
too.
Mom is  still  goo- goo over the goo-gone that got that sticky stuffy
off her  glass.



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From owner-glass Sat Apr 11 22:45:20 1998
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X-Path: uleth.ca!dustlm
From: "Lyndsay Dustan" <dustlm@uleth.ca>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: flower stems
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 1998 23:23:28 -0700
Message-ID: <1998Apr11.162328.0>
Organization: University of Lethbridge 
Precedence: bulk

Hi. I am making flowers out of glass and am having problems
finding wire that is appropriate for a stem. I have been
all over - craft stores, hardware stores etc. but everything seems to be

either too thin or ribbed (I want a plain/ smooth finish on it).
This time around I resorted to thinner wire - I just twisted it to make
it
look thick, but it's not very visible when hanging in the window. Also,
I
had problems souldering the craft wire to my project.
Any suggestions? I imagine that there is some sort of special wire for
glassing - what is it called and what is the gauge??
Thanks
Lyndsay

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From owner-glass Sun Apr 12 06:44:46 1998
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From: Garry  & Linda   McKenna <mnvve3@kwic.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: flower stems
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 1998 09:06:18 -0400
Message-ID: <1.5.4.32.19980412130618.00666898@mail.kwic.com>
Precedence: bulk

Well, Lyndsay, I use 20 ga. copper wire, 2 strands twisted together and
tinned.  If you want a smooth finish you could try 16 ga. and also tinned.
This is available at your stained glass supplier but is much cheaper at
hardware stores. 
BTW Happy Easter to all at Bungi !!
Linda
 at 11:23 PM 11/4/98 -0700, you wrote:
>Hi. I am making flowers out of glass and am having problems
>finding wire that is appropriate for a stem. I have been
>all over - craft stores, hardware stores etc. but everything seems to be
>
>either too thin or ribbed (I want a plain/ smooth finish on it).
>This time around I resorted to thinner wire - I just twisted it to make
>it
>look thick, but it's not very visible when hanging in the window. Also,
>I
>had problems souldering the craft wire to my project.
>Any suggestions? I imagine that there is some sort of special wire for
>glassing - what is it called and what is the gauge??
>Thanks
>Lyndsay
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
>
GARRY & LINDA McKENNA
  TILLSONBURG ONT CANADA
   519 842-9909
  
 LINDA'S HOBBY: STAINED GLASS
 GARRY'S HOBBY:  AMATURE RADIO CALL VE3MNV

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From owner-glass Sun Apr 12 08:16:10 1998
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X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: Stephanie Hansen <sgt@glasstreasures.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Old chemicals and foil
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 1998 10:36:10 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr12.63610.0>
References: <<3.0.5.32.19980411134148.007fe100@glasstreasures.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Stephanie Hansen wrote:
> 
> Afternoon, everyone.  Does anyone know how long of a "shelf life" copper
> foil has?  I recently bought a whole bunch of glass and old supplies from a
> guy who hasn't even used his stuff in about 5 years.  There's about 15
> rolls of various foils in unopened packages, could be anywhere from 5 years
> to 9 years old.  I know opened packages can go "bad" (oxydize?) after a
> period of time, but wasn't sure if there was an expiration date for
> unopened packages.
> 
> There were also some chemicals (patina, stain remover and cutter oil) that
> I don't even want to chance using, but I'm not sure how to dispose of them
> safely.  Anyone know?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Steph ~
> 

well, let's see... the foil should be easy to find out, see if it sticks
to the glass. if it does'nt stick then it's bad. or if the outside of
the foil is'nt shiny, or is'nt smooth then it's also bad. and by smooth,
if you rub your finger across the surface it does'nt feel like a chalk
board.

i would still give the chemicals a try, the cutter oil should be fine,
it's just a type of oil. unless there's junk inside the bottle, it
should be ok. the patina, should also be ok. i still have my original
bootles of patina when i first started, that was around 16 years ago,
and there still working fine. as for the stain remover, again try it. i
never got the new stuff to do anything, so the aged one... who knows...


---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
2-2-98 New Pages Added: 22 New Stained Glass Links, 7 New Projects Added
and My Updated Shop Photo's
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From owner-glass Sun Apr 12 08:28:18 1998
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: Kris <kristc@home.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: *HELP*small candle holders
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 1998 10:57:52 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr12.65752.0>
References: <<1998Apr11.195741.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Kris wrote:
> 
> Sorry to bother the list, but email to the sender came back to me
> undeliverable.
> 
> Thanks for the info! I've had very good luck using electrical tape for
> this sort of thing, but I'll have to experiment with chain, etc. in the
> V. It sounds like I could do some cool things along this line.
> 
> My question related to creeping black goop though, which sounds like
> it's related to mirrors and can be prevented by vaccinating, and I don't
> know what that is.
> 
> Since I'm posting to the whole list I didn't edit the message in case
> these instructions would also be helpful to someone else. I hope the
> author doesn't mind and takes it as the compliment it is :)
> 
> Kris
> 

there's alot of different names for it, but primarily it's caused by
flux or other acids. the silver get's eaten, and what's left is either a
black or brown stain, depending on the color of the mirror backing. it
can be prevented mainly by not grinding the mirror. i found that leaving
it smooth prevents it... 

other methods are to use mirror flux, or mirror spray on the back and
edges of the glass. or nail polish on the edges also work, though it's
difficult to do.

---Mike Savad

-- 
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http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
2-2-98 New Pages Added: 22 New Stained Glass Links, 7 New Projects Added
and My Updated Shop Photo's
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From owner-glass Sun Apr 12 08:49:59 1998
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X-Path: fast.net!charles
From: Charles <charles@fast.net>
To: Garry & Linda McKenna <mnvve3@kwic.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: flower stems
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 1998 10:54:31 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr12.65431.0>
References: <<1.5.4.32.19980412130618.00666898@mail.kwic.com>>
Precedence: bulk

> Well, Lyndsay, I use 20 ga. copper wire, 2
strands twisted
> together and tinned.  If you want a smooth
finish you could
> try 16 ga. and also tinned.  This is available
at your
> stained glass supplier but is much cheaper at
hardware stores.

I encourge customers to shop around, however some
items are less expensive at stained glass
retailers than at hardware stores.  Many times I
have been impressed by the prices hardware stores
charge for staples like ball chain (.50 per foot
and up), jack chain, rubber feet, felt pads etc.

On page 97 of our full color catalog we list bare
copper wire 14 gauge to 24 gauge for as low as
$1.35 per spool.  Pretinned copper wire for $6.95
for a one pound spool, $3.95 for a 1/4 pound
spool.

Charles Warner
Warner-Crivellaro

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From owner-glass Sun Apr 12 09:04:31 1998
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: Lyndsay Dustan <dustlm@uleth.ca>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: flower stems
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 1998 11:03:28 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr12.7328.0>
References: <<1998Apr11.162328.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Lyndsay Dustan wrote:
> 
> Hi. I am making flowers out of glass and am having problems
> finding wire that is appropriate for a stem. I have been
> all over - craft stores, hardware stores etc. but everything seems to be
> 
> either too thin or ribbed (I want a plain/ smooth finish on it).
> This time around I resorted to thinner wire - I just twisted it to make
> it
> look thick, but it's not very visible when hanging in the window. Also,
> I
> had problems souldering the craft wire to my project.
> Any suggestions? I imagine that there is some sort of special wire for
> glassing - what is it called and what is the gauge??
> Thanks
> Lyndsay
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


for a good stem, foil is usally used, (cutting the glass where the them
is going and using a thicker foil there). copper reinforcement could
work, though it does'nt have alot of sideways give. if you want a nice
fat round stem try getting thick grounding wire. you should be able to
find it in a good hardware store, home depot has it. it's a thick solid
copper wire. sold by the foot, i have some in a draw right not, it's
about 3/16" thick, and i think they make it thicker. just be sure to get
the solid type, they will probably also sell the insulated type with the
strands of wire... this is probably the closest thing anyway.

---Mike Savad

-- 
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http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
2-2-98 New Pages Added: 22 New Stained Glass Links, 7 New Projects Added
and My Updated Shop Photo's
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From owner-glass Sun Apr 12 09:54:07 1998
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From: Elsie Turqman <ElsieTurqman@worldnet.att.net>
To: "Lyndsay Dustan" <dustlm@uleth.ca>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: flower stems
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 1998 16:06:35 +0000
Message-ID: <1998Apr12.16635.0>
Precedence: bulk

Lyndsay

I haven't made any flowers recently, but when I did back in the 1970"s, I
used a pre tinned copper wire purchased from an electronics supply house. I
don't know if its still available.  The best guage seemed to be the #14.  A
number #12 would be thicker and #16 thinner, these are american ratings.  If
you can't find the pretinned, you can use any copper wire and tin it
yourself.  I used all kinds of left over wire from various electrical
projects and stripped off the insulation.

Elsie


At 11:23 PM 4/11/98 -0700, you wrote:
>Hi. I am making flowers out of glass and am having problems
>finding wire that is appropriate for a stem. I have been
>all over - craft stores, hardware stores etc. but everything seems to be
>
>either too thin or ribbed (I want a plain/ smooth finish on it).
>This time around I resorted to thinner wire - I just twisted it to make
>it
>look thick, but it's not very visible when hanging in the window. Also,
>I
>had problems souldering the craft wire to my project.
>Any suggestions? I imagine that there is some sort of special wire for
>glassing - what is it called and what is the gauge??
>Thanks
>Lyndsay
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>

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From owner-glass Sun Apr 12 10:09:24 1998
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From: Family Account <shad@mail2.nai.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: flower stems
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 1998 12:06:45 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr12.8645.0>
References: <<1.5.4.32.19980412130618.00666898@mail.kwic.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Hard as it may be to believe, I have, on occasion, found it difficult to get
copper wire at local hardware store.  When I needed a really big gauge, I had
to strip it out of house wiring.

Dorothy

Garry & Linda McKenna wrote:

> Well, Lyndsay, I use 20 ga. copper wire, 2 strands twisted together and
> tinned.  If you want a smooth finish you could try 16 ga. and also tinned.
> This is available at your stained glass supplier but is much cheaper at
> hardware stores.
> BTW Happy Easter to all at Bungi !!
> Linda
>
>



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From owner-glass Sun Apr 12 10:27:16 1998
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From: Yegnim <Yegnim@aol.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: color version of catalog
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 1998 12:52:11 EDT
Message-ID: <1998Apr12.165211.0>
Precedence: bulk

Charles,
Love your new color catalog!  It is so much more motivational than black and
white cats.  I have gotten many more ideas for projects by just looking at the
new version.  Bungians-FYI-it is worth a look.
Lenore
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From owner-glass Sun Apr 12 10:42:01 1998
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From: Yegnim <Yegnim@aol.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: flower stems
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 1998 12:57:33 EDT
Message-ID: <1998Apr12.165733.0>
Precedence: bulk

For a thicker, more easily attachable stem you could try a rod (from the rod
and hinge set that stained glass dealers sell) if you do not intend to shape
it much.  If you pretin the rod it should solder easily into your piece.  Hope
this helps a bit.
Lenore
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From owner-glass Sun Apr 12 13:59:48 1998
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Subject: Bio #11 Don McDonald
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1998 03:14:35 -0500
Message-ID: <1998Apr12.221435.0>
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Bio for Don McDonald
Home: New Orleans, Louisiana, USA
Profession 1: Director, Web Services, Chesapeake Communications
Corporation (pays the bills)
Profession 2: Minister/Music Director, Vieux Carre Community Church
(like the retirement plan)
Profession 3: Glass Artist (preferred occupation, if I didn't like to
eat so much)

Type of glass work I do:
Windows, Panels, Suncatchers, Wall Art
Lead and Foil

History:
Born is Southern USA 1956
Educated in private schools run by Incarnate Word Sisters until High
School, then Christian Brothers.
Entered monastery in 1975.
Received Master's Degree (Liturgical Arts) 1981
Received Diploma as a Registered Nurse 1986

Apprenticed in Stained Glass under the direction of Brother Albert,
an old monk in our community, beginning in 1977, didn't know there was
any other method than lead then.  Tools consisted of a green glass
cutter that had to be dipped in oil, two pairs of standard pliers, a
"whetstone", a lead knife, a dowel sharpened in a pencil sharpener, a
brush, a mallet, one electric soldering iron and one that had to be
heated with a torch. Mud was mixed from 2 parts portland cement and 1
part plaster of paris.  Whiting was stolen from the flour bin in the
kitchen when the cook wasn't looking.

In 1982 completed the altar for our new chapel, "Our Lady of the Rio
Grande" for which the bishop sent me a binding instruction in writing
that "<he> doesn't care what kind of archetecture or design the chapel
is in as long as the front of the altar is made of marble." The chapel
was of a modern wood and glass design and marble would have looked
like something was purchased at the local thrift shop.  Altar was
built from cherry wood.  The front was made of a 1" deep box filled
with white portland cement into which 2800 cat eye marbles were
pressed.  It met the requirement for a "marble front".  While waiting
for the beginning of the dedication service, the bishop, standing in
the back of the church commented, "The chapel is beautiful, I
particularly like the way the altar seems to glow and pick up the
light and color from the room.  Hey, didn't I order you to make the
altar front of marble?"  I responded, "It is, 2800 cat eye marbles."

Also featured in this chapel was a window behind the main altar, 5
feet wide and 20 feet high, named "Our Lady of the Rio Grande" but
called "Our Lady of the Size 47 Foot."  It was impressive, even if I
do say so, and created a particularly impressive shower of hues of
blue during a May thunderstorm as it came crashing in on the
worshippers.  Lesson learned: reinforcement is very very important
Unfortunately Brother Albert was dead by this time and couldn't also
learn the lesson.

Continued making windows for local religious establishments until
1989.  Then took a break from glass until 1997 when I got addicted all
over again thanks to  Mike and Dianna Barr, who you see on the list
from time to time.

Left the monastery and the Catholic Church in 1993.

Other interests:
Music--church organist
Pilot--light aircraft (Cessna 172 is my fav)
Wood working
Avoiding the practice of nursing at all costs
A dog
A cat
Bicycle as a primary form of transportation
Computers, especially HTML coding and cgi programming in PERL and
C++
Travel
Gardening
Sewing
Candlemaking
Cooking

Marital Status: Married (sort of)
Spouse's Name: Trenton del rey Gallowglass
Children: None (unless you count the dog and cat)



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From owner-glass Sun Apr 12 14:29:33 1998
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X-Path: home.com!leestat7
From: leestat7 <leestat7@home.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Mirror Vacine
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 1998 13:04:06 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr12.946.0>
Organization: @Home Network
Precedence: bulk

When using mirrors, you need to 'seal' the back and edges with something
to prevent flux from contacting the silvering of the mirror.  Some,
paint on clear nail polish, some, use a special mirror sealant
(moderately expensive) I use Krylon brand Clear Acrylic Spray.  It
sprays on evenly, coats the back and sides well, and prevents 'black
rot' or 'mirror rot'.  Place the piece of mirror (before foiling, but
after cutting) face side down on a flat piece of newspaper, outside is
best, and lightly spray the back and all sides.  If a little spray gets
on the face (front) of the mirror it is easy to razor off, but is faster
not to get it on in the first place.  Krylon dries in a few minutes
(15-20) then foil and proceed to assemble your candle holder, box,
whatever.  Hope this helps.

Lee Boe
Rain-Boe's Creations
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From owner-glass Mon Apr 13 08:58:13 1998
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X-Path: flash.net!artglass
From: "Dianne G. Maddison" <artglass@flash.net>
To: bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Butyl
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1998 10:18:13 -0500
Message-ID: <1998Apr13.51813.0>
Organization: The Ivory Express
Precedence: bulk

Hi Carolyn and All,
Just a 1 1/2 cent worth of a comment from me on the butyl.  I have had
several clients ask for triple paned panels for front doors.  I take my
panel to a window company for triple glazing.  They put a metal frame
around the panel (the same that is used for storm doors).  All three
panels are then vacuum sealed together with heated butyl around the
edges for a sealant.  This is not something that I would recommend that
you do yourself  because we not usually equipped with the facilities for
vacuum sealing glass to prevent condensation.  It would be nice though.
My best to all.
Dianne Maddison

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From owner-glass Mon Apr 13 09:55:55 1998
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X-Path: tillamook.k12.or.us!SteveM
From: "Steve Matthies" <SteveM@tillamook.k12.or.us>
To: glass@bungi.com, dustlm@uleth.ca
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: flower stems
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1998 09:10:15 -0700
Message-ID: <s531d699.005@tillamook.k12.or.us>
Precedence: bulk

I have had good results using welding rod. It comes in several different =
sizes and materials. Using the smaller diameters, clip to lenghth, and put =
2 or 3 in a bench vise, clamp the other ends with vise grips and twist =
them together. Most auto parts stores carry these (as well as welding =
suppliers) and they are sold in 3 foot lenghths and cheap compared to the =
same product sold in a hardware store in a 1 foot piece.

>>> "Lyndsay Dustan" <dustlm@uleth.ca> 04/11 11:23 PM >>>
Hi. I am making flowers out of glass and am having problems
finding wire that is appropriate for a stem. I have been
all over - craft stores, hardware stores etc. but everything seems to be

either too thin or ribbed (I want a plain/ smooth finish on it).
This time around I resorted to thinner wire - I just twisted it to make
it
look thick, but it's not very visible when hanging in the window. Also,
I
had problems souldering the craft wire to my project.
Any suggestions? I imagine that there is some sort of special wire for
glassing - what is it called and what is the gauge??
Thanks
Lyndsay

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From owner-glass Mon Apr 13 10:19:23 1998
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From: "Steve Matthies" <SteveM@tillamook.k12.or.us>
To: glass@bungi.com, dustlm@uleth.ca
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: flower stems
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1998 09:10:15 -0700
Message-ID: <s531d699.004@tillamook.k12.or.us>
Precedence: bulk

I have had good results using welding rod. It comes in several different =
sizes and materials. Using the smaller diameters, clip to lenghth, and put =
2 or 3 in a bench vise, clamp the other ends with vise grips and twist =
them together. Most auto parts stores carry these (as well as welding =
suppliers) and they are sold in 3 foot lenghths and cheap compared to the =
same product sold in a hardware store in a 1 foot piece.

>>> "Lyndsay Dustan" <dustlm@uleth.ca> 04/11 11:23 PM >>>
Hi. I am making flowers out of glass and am having problems
finding wire that is appropriate for a stem. I have been
all over - craft stores, hardware stores etc. but everything seems to be

either too thin or ribbed (I want a plain/ smooth finish on it).
This time around I resorted to thinner wire - I just twisted it to make
it
look thick, but it's not very visible when hanging in the window. Also,
I
had problems souldering the craft wire to my project.
Any suggestions? I imagine that there is some sort of special wire for
glassing - what is it called and what is the gauge??
Thanks
Lyndsay

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From owner-glass Mon Apr 13 11:23:13 1998
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X-Path: vdot.net!shyguy
From: Carl Childers <shyguy@vdot.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: flower stems
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1998 13:26:22 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr13.92622.0>
References: <<s531d699.005@tillamook.k12.or.us>>
Organization: Cox's Mower Service
Precedence: bulk

Just an FYI - in some areas this is known as 'brazing rod'. Around here welding
rod is about 14" long and covered in it's own type of flux.
Steve Matthies wrote:

> I have had good results using welding rod. It comes in several different =
> sizes and materials. Using the smaller diameters, clip to lenghth, and put =
> 2 or 3 in a bench vise, clamp the other ends with vise grips and twist =
> them together. Most auto parts stores carry these (as well as welding =
> suppliers) and they are sold in 3 foot lenghths and cheap compared to the =
> same product sold in a hardware store in a 1 foot piece.
>
> >>> "Lyndsay Dustan" <dustlm@uleth.ca> 04/11 11:23 PM >>>
> Hi. I am making flowers out of glass and am having problems
> finding wire that is appropriate for a stem. I have been
> all over - craft stores, hardware stores etc. but everything seems to be
>
> either too thin or ribbed (I want a plain/ smooth finish on it).
> This time around I resorted to thinner wire - I just twisted it to make
> it
> look thick, but it's not very visible when hanging in the window. Also,
> I
> had problems souldering the craft wire to my project.
> Any suggestions? I imagine that there is some sort of special wire for
> glassing - what is it called and what is the gauge??
> Thanks
> Lyndsay
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com=20
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com=20
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
> ----
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From owner-glass Mon Apr 13 11:58:35 1998
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From: DMR74 <DMR74@aol.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: *HELP*small candle holders
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1998 14:12:25 EDT
Message-ID: <1998Apr13.181225.0>
Precedence: bulk

In a message dated 98-04-10 19:58:23 EDT, you write:

> and Remember to vaccinate the edges of your
>  > mirror to prevent your mirror from catching the creaping black goop 
> disease
>  > deb
LOL sorry I  it was a little joke, I guess you are learning too and I don't
want you to have to learn the hard way.  If you use mirror you always have to
treat the edges so that the mirror doesn't get eroded away from water or flux,
it doesn't always show up right away could be a day could be weeks or months
but inevitably it will start turning black and splotchy.  there are various
ways I have tried the spray "mirror sealant" but for me (I donno I might be
doing it wrong or am too lazy to have to tape up everything) it was too messy
and sticky.  I have come to like nail polish but you will find a lot of help
on this subject from our fellow bungians.  Problem is I have found that it
might take a while to know if something truley works.
deb
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From owner-glass Mon Apr 13 15:54:58 1998
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X-Path: aol.com!LByrne21
From: LByrne21 <LByrne21@aol.com>
To: Yegnim@aol.com, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: color version of catalog
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1998 18:10:32 EDT
Message-ID: <1998Apr13.221032.0>
Precedence: bulk

Not only is the W-C catalog sensational to look at (because of it's colors and
ideas)...it also, has the best prices around.  THE "Wish Book For Glass
Things" can make it become a reality for you.  The only thing better is a trip
in person to W-C, if possible.
                                          
                                              Lavergne (the lurker)
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From owner-glass Mon Apr 13 16:24:55 1998
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From: Kris <kristc@home.com>
To: DMR74 <DMR74@aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: *HELP*small candle holders
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1998 18:41:36 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr13.144136.0>
References: <<1998Apr13.181225.0>>
Organization: @Home Network
Precedence: bulk

Thanks SO much to you all for info on this! I didn't know a thing about
this potential problem. So far all I have done with mirror is a couple
box bottoms (they look fine so far) but in the future I will take
precautions to see things keep looking fine. Yes, I am learning, and I
can't begin to tell you how much I have learned from all of you on this
list. Thanks!

Kris



> > and Remember to vaccinate the edges of your
> >  > mirror to prevent your mirror from catching the creaping black goop
> > disease
> >  > deb
> LOL sorry I  it was a little joke, I guess you are learning too and I don't
> want you to have to learn the hard way.  If you use mirror you always have to
> treat the edges so that the mirror doesn't get eroded away from water or flux,
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From owner-glass Mon Apr 13 17:55:22 1998
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: (Fwd) Re: Bio #10 Valerie Tydings Phelps
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@pop3.nildram.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 01:11:43 +0000
Message-ID: <199804140013.BAA32532@saturn.nildram.co.uk>
Precedence: bulk


Dear All,
It's amazing what a couple of days or so can do to your e-mail 
box.....
I now have an EXTRA 200 messages .....
A brief general posting/reply, before I get my teeth into details 
(and individual replies);

Valerie's bio posted twice... and I'm still trying to figure out the 
UK connection..??
Toby want's to know about the Beagle next door......

Goldenpaws": Toby says thank you for your kind thoughts!
He prefers marrowbones to stained glass, although the latter does pay 
for the former. For his birthday (and Easter) he received a HUGE one.
Haircut not yet accomplished, because we have had floods, frost and 
snow in UK this last week!).

Michael Wilks: Glasseye 95 successfully loaded on my spanking new 
W95, yet also retained in our earlier 3.11 to run in tandem (Thanks 
to Kris!) . Most of my students have W3, only a few have W95. Will 
get back to you once I have passed the painful learning curve.....
Have designed specific subject-related OWN workshops, of which 
Glasseye features. Will need to inform & consult with you shortly.
(I STILL think I prefer 3.11 though.... Less "faffy".)

Glad to see Don's Bio ... didn't realize he was such a young 'un!

Who was looking for SG cement in the archives?? I remember giving 
date of Dani's input... Any Progress?? Success??

I owe a number of people replies... please bear with me...
Lavergne, that includes you - picked up your message....

Anyone with any observations / comments about PaintshopPro Version 4?
(Version 5 to be released shortly) I have been using V3 on my old 
3.11 system, have now V4 on my W95 
??
Back to leading.....
Elisabeth 'n Toby in UK
----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
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From owner-glass Mon Apr 13 21:02:06 1998
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X-Path: juno.com!dodgestudio
From: dodgestudio@juno.com
To: leestat7@home.com
Subject: Re: Mirror Vacine
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1998 23:30:14 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr13.193014.0>
References: <<1998Apr12.946.0>>
Precedence: bulk

I have found that cleaning the cut edges of the mirror with a cotton swab
dampened with alcohol helps.  We then cover the back with contact paper
and being careful not to touch the edges, trim the contact flush with the
mirror.  We hold the exacto knife at an angle to bevel the contact paper
so that none protrudes past the mirror.  Then we foil it, still being
careful not to touch the edges with our fingers, (finger oil is a prime
cause of black edge), and press the foil firmly against the contact paper
to create a moisture seal.  Solder using the least flux possible.

The contact paper also protects the mirror back from scratching.

Gary Dodge              Dodge Studio Designs

http://www.dodgestudio.com

On Sun, 12 Apr 1998 13:04:06 -0400 leestat7 <leestat7@home.com> writes:
>When using mirrors, you need to 'seal' the back and edges with 
>something
>to prevent flux from contacting the silvering of the mirror.  Some,
>paint on clear nail polish, some, use a special mirror sealant
>(moderately expensive) I use Krylon brand Clear Acrylic Spray.  It
>sprays on evenly, coats the back and sides well, and prevents 'black
>rot' or 'mirror rot'.  Place the piece of mirror (before foiling, but
>after cutting) face side down on a flat piece of newspaper, outside is
>best, and lightly spray the back and all sides.  If a little spray 
>gets
>on the face (front) of the mirror it is easy to razor off, but is 
>faster
>not to get it on in the first place.  Krylon dries in a few minutes
>(15-20) then foil and proceed to assemble your candle holder, box,
>whatever.  Hope this helps.
>
>Lee Boe
>Rain-Boe's Creations
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>

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Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
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From owner-glass Mon Apr 13 21:31:22 1998
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X-Path: juno.com!dodgestudio
From: dodgestudio@juno.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Old chemicals and foil
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1998 23:24:08 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr13.19248.0>
References: <<3.0.5.32.19980411134148.007fe100@glasstreasures.com>>>
Precedence: bulk

Someone once submitted a tip (which is posted on our website in the
archives)  about using an electric frypan to heat up old copper foil to
revitalize the adhesive.

Gary Dodge

>Stephanie Hansen wrote:
>> 
>> Afternoon, everyone.  Does anyone know how long of a "shelf life" 
>copper
>> foil has?  
>> 
>
>well, let's see... the foil should be easy to find out, see if it 
>sticks
>to the glass. if it does'nt stick then it's bad.

Gary Dodge              Dodge Studio Designs

http://www.dodgestudio.com


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From owner-glass Tue Apr 14 02:35:39 1998
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From: Rick Lasita <pebble@fuse.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Dolphin pattern
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 05:08:49 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr14.1849.0>
Organization: Window Art GLass Studio
Precedence: bulk

Anyone direct me to a web page or book where I can find a dolphin
pattern?

Thanks

Rick
http://home.fuse.net/crafts/index.html
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From owner-glass Tue Apr 14 03:36:08 1998
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From: Romajoco <Romajoco@aol.com>
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Subject: Re: Dolphin pattern
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 05:53:36 EDT
Message-ID: <1998Apr14.95336.0>
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Rick,

When I was looking at the GlassEye program...I noticed that it had a dolphin
pattern in it.  I recently downloaded the GlassEye Internet program FREE at
http://www.dfly.com

Hope this helps.

Margie
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From owner-glass Tue Apr 14 04:38:30 1998
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From: Elsie Turqman <ElsieTurqman@worldnet.att.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Slightly off glass subject
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 10:56:13 +0000
Message-ID: <1998Apr14.105613.0>
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We are selling the contents of a house that belonges to an elderly relative
who is now in a nursing home.  I am trying to find out the value of a old
(not quite antique) lamp.

The lamp shade is a curved casting with six panels as is of base metal with
gilt paint.each panel has a filigree flower motif at the bottom and the top.
The six curved glass inserts are white/golden yellow/green opaque.  The lamp
base is also base metal with gilt paint and has the markings "EM & Co" and
"1106"

If anyone can help point me in the right direction, I would appreciate it.

I have pictures of the lamp on a computer disc, but I don't know how to post
them to the list.  My computer bogged down when my daughter sent me pictures
via Email, so I hesitate to send them out without informing the recipient.

Thanks to all                Elsie

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From owner-glass Tue Apr 14 04:52:59 1998
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From: Yegnim <Yegnim@aol.com>
To: katz9@idt.net, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: color version of catalog
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 06:58:27 EDT
Message-ID: <1998Apr14.105827.0>
Precedence: bulk

Dear Kathryn and Glass Newbies,
The phone # to call for the Warner-Crivellaro catalogue is: 1--800-523-4242.
Web site is:  http://www.warner-criv.com    As stated before, the new '98-'99
catalog is in color.  Lenore
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From owner-glass Tue Apr 14 05:08:35 1998
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X-Path: memach.com!lcbell
From: Linda Campbell <lcbell@memach.com>
To: "'dodgestudio@juno.com'" <dodgestudio@juno.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: RE: Mirror Vacine
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 07:00:50 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr14.3050.0>
Precedence: bulk

Gary, sounds like a great method of handling mirror. What sort of =
contact paper do you use? Clear? And does soldering harm the contact =
paper?



Linda Campbell


I have found that cleaning the cut edges of the mirror with a cotton =
swab
dampened with alcohol helps.  We then cover the back with contact paper
and being careful not to touch the edges, trim the contact flush with =
the
mirror.  We hold the exacto knife at an angle to bevel the contact paper
so that none protrudes past the mirror.  Then we foil it, still being
careful not to touch the edges with our fingers, (finger oil is a prime
cause of black edge), and press the foil firmly against the contact =
paper
to create a moisture seal.  Solder using the least flux possible.

The contact paper also protects the mirror back from scratching.

Gary Dodge              Dodge Studio Designs


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From owner-glass Tue Apr 14 05:11:24 1998
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From: Linda Campbell <lcbell@memach.com>
To: "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: RE: color version of catalog
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 07:06:41 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr14.3641.0>
Precedence: bulk

Yes, yes, great catalog. NOt just an idea book...I can tell more about =
the things I want to but because the depth of color is there. For =
instance, WC will be hearing from me for an order for clock parts as =
well as glass. Soon.

Linda Campbell

Back from the hospital. Those nasty hives and the asthma that was =
involved with the pollen count two weeks ago landed me in the bed for =
yet more IV's. Tubing and bags to share with a friend for her grinder =
and saw. All better now and glad to be back to the computer. Did a =
couple of hand drawn designs while I was in. Panels for a valance over =
my kitchen window, a stand-about of the Hatteras Light House for a =
friend and a humming bird panel for my bath. 
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From owner-glass Tue Apr 14 05:23:20 1998
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From: Yegnim <Yegnim@aol.com>
To: artglass@flash.net, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Butyl
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 07:03:19 EDT
Message-ID: <1998Apr14.11319.0>
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Care to share with us the average cost of having a piece of stained glass
triple-paned with the metal stripping attached so it can be used in a storm
door?   Sounds like it could be a hefty fee!  Have you heard any complaints of
the seal breaking and moisture getting trapped between the panes?
Lenore
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From owner-glass Tue Apr 14 07:11:31 1998
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From: "Michael Minchelli" <lsg@jerseycape.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Re: Butyl / Triple glazing
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 09:14:04 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr14.5144.0>
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I have quite a few pieces of my work put between the thermal pane. Most
companies do not actually vacuum seal the units any more, they use what is
called a "Desiccant" filler. It is a substance that absorbs moisture and is
goes in that metal stripping.
As far as cost... there are a few variables. I am in the state of New
Jersey; here anything within 6 feet of a door must have tempered glass or
safety glass, this is more expensive.
For example: I just had a door and 2 sidelights done. The door was 23 X 37
and cost $84, the sidelights were 10 X 65 and cost $60 each. $204 total,
they come to my shop and pick up the inserts, create the thermal panes and
deliver them back to my shop, the whole process usually takes a week.
I have seen prices really range so if your numbers don't look like these I
would shop around.
Michael Minchelli


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From owner-glass Tue Apr 14 07:40:53 1998
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From: cpesonen@bcinternet.net (Cindy Pesonen)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Butyl; pricing insulated units and Tri sodium phosphate
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 06:53:56 -0700 (PDT)
Message-ID: <199804141353.GAA19325@ns2.vphos.net>
Precedence: bulk

>X-From_: owner-glass@daver.bungi.com Tue Apr 14 05:24:52 1998
>Return-Path: owner-glass@daver.bungi.com
>X-Path: aol.com!Yegnim
>From: Yegnim <Yegnim@aol.com>
>To: artglass@flash.net, glass@bungi.com
>Subject: Re: Butyl; pricing insulated units and tri sodium phosphate
>Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 07:03:19 EDT
>Precedence: bulk
> 

Hi Lenore,
Insulated units are not as bad as you may think, but you'd have to check
with your local company. The pricing and whether or not it's a tempered
piece and size of the unit come in to play. For example for me up to 3.99
sq.ft in 3mm clear temp with clear annealed would cost $27.60.
But consider cleaning as once it's sealed that's it. 
Animal fats-greases,lubricating oils-mineral greases should be cleaned
separately. Caustic soap like in Joy will attack the aninmal fats, but TSP
will address the other. Best to clean the mineral grease first and then the
animal fat.
TSP also neutralizes the zinc chloride found in most fluxes, whcih
eliminates the chance of white particles found later. TSP is not
environmentally safe.
Smiles and chuckles, Cindy


>Care to share with us the average cost of having a piece of stained glass
>triple-paned with the metal stripping attached so it can be used in a storm
>door?   Sounds like it could be a hefty fee!  Have you heard any complaints of
>the seal breaking and moisture getting trapped between the panes?
>Lenore
>----
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>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
>

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From owner-glass Tue Apr 14 10:11:38 1998
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X-Path: az.stratus.com!charlie
From: Charles Spitzer <charlie@az.stratus.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: Re: Mirror Vaccine
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 98 08:30:54 -0700
Message-ID: <m0yP7fl-000LiCC@why.az.stratus.com>
References: <<1998Apr13.193014.0>>
Organization: Customer Assistance Center, Stratus Computer, Inc.
Precedence: bulk

You wrote:
> I have found that cleaning the cut edges of the mirror with a cotton swab
> dampened with alcohol helps.  We then cover the back with contact paper
> and being careful not to touch the edges, trim the contact flush with the
> mirror.  We hold the exacto knife at an angle to bevel the contact paper
> so that none protrudes past the mirror.  Then we foil it, still being
> careful not to touch the edges with our fingers, (finger oil is a prime
> cause of black edge), and press the foil firmly against the contact paper
> to create a moisture seal.  Solder using the least flux possible.
>
> The contact paper also protects the mirror back from scratching.
>
> Gary Dodge              Dodge Studio Designs
>

i've found that the 1/4" mirror at home depot has a plastic coating on the  
back that seems to protect it pretty well. it's the 1' mirror squares that are  
used for making a mirrored wall. the coating holds up to soldering well, and  
isn't affected by flux at all.

a little krylon on the edges, and i've never had mirror rot. however, when  
i've gotten mirror at either stained glass or window glass stores, that has  
rotted over time.
---
Charles Spitzer
charlie@az.stratus.com
Phoenix, AZ
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From owner-glass Tue Apr 14 10:41:53 1998
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From: Margaret41 <Margaret41@aol.com>
To: cpesonen@bcinternet.net, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Butyl; pricing insulated units and Tri sodium phosphate
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 12:34:35 EDT
Message-ID: <1998Apr14.163435.0>
Precedence: bulk

In a message dated 98-04-14 10:41:27 EDT, cpesonen@bcinternet.net writes:

<< TSP also neutralizes the zinc chloride found in most fluxes, whcih
 eliminates the chance of white particles found later. TSP is not
 environmentally safe.
 Smiles and chuckles, Cindy >>

Hi all - has anyone tried this to get rid of oxidation? did the solder/lead
react? We have boxes of this stuff around in the house. Thanks.   Margaret
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From owner-glass Tue Apr 14 11:05:15 1998
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X-Path: home.com!leestat7
From: leestat7 <leestat7@home.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Mirror Vacine
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 12:23:46 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr14.82346.0>
References: <<19980413.233014.3814.1.dodgestudio@juno.com>>
Organization: @Home Network
Precedence: bulk

Cool tip, would never have thought of this, will try it on the next box
or candle holder I do.

Thanks Gary!!

Lee Boe
Rain-Boe's Creations

dodgestudio@juno.com wrote:
> 
> I have found that cleaning the cut edges of the mirror with a cotton swab
> dampened with alcohol helps.  We then cover the back with contact paper
> and being careful not to touch the edges, trim the contact flush with the
> mirror.  We hold the exacto knife at an angle to bevel the contact paper
> so that none protrudes past the mirror.  Then we foil it, still being
> careful not to touch the edges with our fingers, (finger oil is a prime
> cause of black edge), and press the foil firmly against the contact paper
> to create a moisture seal.  Solder using the least flux possible.
> 
> The contact paper also protects the mirror back from scratching.
> 
> Gary Dodge              Dodge Studio Designs
> 
> http://www.dodgestudio.com
> 
> On Sun, 12 Apr 1998 13:04:06 -0400 leestat7 <leestat7@home.com> writes:
> >When using mirrors, you need to 'seal' the back and edges with
> >something
> >to prevent flux from contacting the silvering of the mirror.  Some,
> >paint on clear nail polish, some, use a special mirror sealant
> >(moderately expensive) I use Krylon brand Clear Acrylic Spray.  It
> >sprays on evenly, coats the back and sides well, and prevents 'black
> >rot' or 'mirror rot'.  Place the piece of mirror (before foiling, but
> >after cutting) face side down on a flat piece of newspaper, outside is
> >best, and lightly spray the back and all sides.  If a little spray
> >gets
> >on the face (front) of the mirror it is easy to razor off, but is
> >faster
> >not to get it on in the first place.  Krylon dries in a few minutes
> >(15-20) then foil and proceed to assemble your candle holder, box,
> >whatever.  Hope this helps.
> >
> >Lee Boe
> >Rain-Boe's Creations
> >----
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From owner-glass Tue Apr 14 11:41:42 1998
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X-Path: mars.ark.com!wmunro
From: wmunro@mars.ark.com (Wayne Munro)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Sand vs Pressure Blasters
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 03:10:27 -0700
Message-ID: <199804141010.DAA01132@ark.com>
Precedence: bulk

Hi Gang...Does anyone out there use sand in their pressure blaster? I just
got a new pressure blaster and don't have any silicon carbide or aluminum
oxide (quickly) available and was wondering if sand would be OK. I am
presently using sand in my blast cabinet with the siphon system.
What kind of problems are there with switching 'back and forth'?
Thanks.......Wayne


Wayne Munro 'Snail mail' address
2960 Suffield Road,
Courtenay, B.C. Canada   V9N-3V5

ICQ # 2762376
Phone and Fax-- (250) 338-5507  
 "Call before sending a fax so setup is complete"

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From owner-glass Tue Apr 14 16:18:54 1998
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X-Path: usaor.net!3hounds
From: Gloria & George <3hounds@usaor.net>
To: "'a1a84211@mail1.bctel.ca'" <a1a84211@mail1.bctel.ca>,
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: RE: stepping stone stability
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 18:40:16 -0100
Message-ID: <1998Apr14.174016.0>
Precedence: bulk



First sorry for the delay to this reply, gardening chores have begun..=20
I live in Pgh. also.. I left my stepping stone out all winter, it is =
almost all glass, like a hexagon glass panel, I have no problem, used =
mainly Wismach glass.. I followed Shirley's concrete mixture recipe from =
last year (except for vibrating the mixture for air bubbles, just shook =
it many times) , added chicken wire and place the hexagon on 2 inches of =
sand..  The dogs even run over it.. If I can help you any way, leave me =
know..
Gloria

-----Original Message-----
From:	a1a84211@mail1.bctel.ca [SMTP:a1a84211@mail1.bctel.ca]
Sent:	Tuesday, April 07, 1998 1:54 PM
To:	glass@bungi.com; Theresa Smith
Subject:	Re: stepping stone stability

> >Is anyone successful in making stepping stones that do not crack? I =
live
> >in Pennsylvania and two stores I have tried to buy molds from in my =
area
> >told me not to bother. =20
> I Live in Pgh and the first year I made stepping stones, a made 4 to =
test
> with.  Two had the whole surface covered with glass (one 14 hexagon =
and a
> smaller 9 inch circle) and two had just one design in the stone (ie =
just a
> bird in a tree and the other with a butterfly).  I left one of the all =
glass
> out all winter and one with only the design with no background out and
> brought the other two in all winter.  Both of the ones left out had =
the
> glass pushed up away from the stone but only one piece of glass =
actaully
> cracked (BTW - this was a few years ago when we had a much fiercer =
winter).
> The other two that were brought in are still fine but I do bring them =
in
> during the winter.

I left mine out for a Canadian winter (admittedly milder than usual)=20
and had no problems at all.  Do you use any kind of reinforcing wire=20
in your stones?  That's the only thing I can think of that might=20
cause  a problem if not done.

Shiela
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From owner-glass Tue Apr 14 16:47:52 1998
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From: Gloria & George <3hounds@usaor.net>
To: "'Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo'" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>,
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: RE: labels
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 18:29:48 -0100
Message-ID: <1998Apr14.172948.0>
Precedence: bulk



With a catchy label, do you mean words with art work.. I always liked =
and used, "Handcrafted with pride in the U.S.A." Sorry for our members =
in Britain and elsewhere, just trying to tell the local mall goers that =
it is American made and not  3rd world ...
Gloria

-----Original Message-----
From:	Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo [SMTP:Ensembles@compuserve.com]
Sent:	Friday, April 10, 1998 10:20 AM
To:	Bungi
Subject:	labels

Message text written by Susan Mankin
>I am trying to design a
catchy label for stained glass pieces and would like the groups input. I =
=3D
am
going to use a business card size area to work with...<

I also use a business card-sized label for my own works.
I try to use a colorful card stock which sort of looks like
stained glass.  So I chose "Watercolors" pattern card stock
from Paper Direct.  They are a mail-order paper company
which carries well over 500 different beautiful card stock
designs which you can use in your computer printer.
Paper Direct can be reached at 1-800-APAPERS.

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles, P.O.Box 903, Skippack, PA 19474-0903
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From owner-glass Tue Apr 14 16:53:30 1998
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From: Gloria & George <3hounds@usaor.net>
To: "'LByrne21'" <LByrne21@aol.com>, "Yegnim@aol.com" <Yegnim@aol.com>,
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: RE: color version of catalog
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 18:20:50 -0100
Message-ID: <1998Apr14.172050.0>
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A few other things, not is it a great catalog, but also a nice source =
for reasonable priced bevels (roses, birds, fish and my favorite the =
partride in the pear tree, oh wait, tis not Christmas,yet)  and the =
telephone workers are so nice.

Gloria

-----Original Message-----
From:	LByrne21 [SMTP:LByrne21@aol.com]
Sent:	Monday, April 13, 1998 8:11 PM
To:	Yegnim@aol.com; glass@bungi.com
Subject:	Re: color version of catalog

Not only is the W-C catalog sensational to look at (because of it's =
colors and
ideas)...it also, has the best prices around.  THE "Wish Book For Glass
Things" can make it become a reality for you.  The only thing better is =
a trip
in person to W-C, if possible.
                                         =20
                                              Lavergne (the lurker)
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From owner-glass Tue Apr 14 17:53:05 1998
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From: Nadine Beth Schneider <nadinesfolly@erols.com>
To: Margaret41 <Margaret41@aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Butyl; pricing insulated units and Tri sodium phosphate
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 17:29:32 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr14.132932.0>
References: <<1998Apr14.163435.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Where do you find TSP and in what form?  It may be just what I've been
looking for. . .or is there a down side, like your fingers fall off ;-\
?

> In a message dated 98-04-14 10:41:27 EDT, cpesonen@bcinternet.net
> writes:
>
> << TSP also neutralizes the zinc chloride found in most fluxes, whcih
>  eliminates the chance of white particles found later. TSP is not
>  environmentally safe.
>  Smiles and chuckles, Cindy >>
>
> Hi all - has anyone tried this to get rid of oxidation? did the
> solder/lead
> react? We have boxes of this stuff around in the house. Thanks.
> Margaret
> ----
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From owner-glass Tue Apr 14 19:27:25 1998
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From: cpesonen@bcinternet.net (Cindy Pesonen)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: TSP
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 18:52:35 -0700 (PDT)
Message-ID: <199804150152.SAA24490@ns2.vphos.net>
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Hi Guys,
Just got inside to read the messages, tsp. is a cleaner for many useages.
Common useage...cleaning the walls. It's not something I'd use without
rubber gloves and if you run a septic field and use biodegradeable, it's not
so hot.
It's like one of those things talked about before... neutrilizers. (One can
buy the name brand stuff called for stained glass---or---- one could use
baking soda wash. Tsp. is good cause it addresses the cleaning process with
mineral oils and not animal fats.
Try it use it and see what you think. Useage can be many.
Smiles and chuckles, Cindy

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From owner-glass Tue Apr 14 19:56:31 1998
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X-Path: juno.com!dodgestudio
From: dodgestudio@juno.com
To: lcbell@memach.com
Subject: Re: Mirror Vacine
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 22:15:41 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr14.181541.0>
References: <<01BD6773.0FE1D400@mmc043.memach.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Linda,

You have to be careful not to let the solder bulge out over the contact
paper or it will blister.

As for color, I usually try to use something attractive that matches the
tone of the work.  (Why shouldn't the back be pretty too?)

For country type things sometimes I use paper that looks like a checkered
table cloth.  For classy stuff maybe a burled walnut pattern, etc.

Gary Dodge              Dodge Studio Designs

http://www.dodgestudio.com


>Gary, sounds like a great method of handling mirror. What sort of =
>contact paper do you use? Clear? And does soldering harm the contact =
>paper?
>
>
>
>Linda Campbell
>
>
>I have found that cleaning the cut edges of the mirror with a cotton =
>swab
>dampened with alcohol helps.  We then cover the back with contact 
>paper
>and being careful not to touch the edges, trim the contact flush with 
>=
>the
>mirror.  We hold the exacto knife at an angle to bevel the contact 
>paper
>so that none protrudes past the mirror.  Then we foil it, still being
>careful not to touch the edges with our fingers, (finger oil is a 
>prime
>cause of black edge), and press the foil firmly against the contact =
>paper
>to create a moisture seal.  Solder using the least flux possible.
>
>The contact paper also protects the mirror back from scratching.
>
>Gary Dodge              Dodge Studio Designs
>
>
>

_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

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From owner-glass Tue Apr 14 20:23:16 1998
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From: dodgestudio@juno.com
To: charlie@az.stratus.com
Subject: Re: Mirror Vaccine
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 22:11:39 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr14.181139.0>
References: <<1998Apr13.193014.0>>>
Precedence: bulk

Charles,

Do you really mean 1/4" mirror?  

Gary Dodge              Dodge Studio Designs

http://www.dodgestudio.com


>
>i've found that the 1/4" mirror at home depot has a plastic coating on 
>the  
>back that seems to protect it pretty well. it's the 1' mirror squares 
>that are  
>used for making a mirrored wall. the coating holds up to soldering 
>well, and  
>isn't affected by flux at all.
>

>Charles Spitzer

_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

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From owner-glass Tue Apr 14 20:27:58 1998
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X-Path: aol.com!PDRUSS
From: P D RUSS <PDRUSS@aol.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Dolphin pattern
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 22:36:28 EDT
Message-ID: <1998Apr15.23628.0>
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In a message dated 98-04-14 06:36:29 EDT, you write:

<< 
 Rick,
 
 When I was looking at the GlassEye program...I noticed that it had a dolphin
 pattern in it.  I recently downloaded the GlassEye Internet program FREE at
 http://www.dfly.com
 
 Hope this helps.
 
 Margie >>



Hi Everyone, 

I downloaded the first Glass Eye program a few months ago but haven't found
time to learn to use it. Now the second one it out. Should I learn the first
one then the second or just move on to the second one and delete the first?

Dianne >^..^<


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From owner-glass Wed Apr 15 05:13:12 1998
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From: MsSOPHIA <MsSOPHIA@aol.com>
To: PDRUSS@aol.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Dolphin pattern
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 07:28:01 EDT
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In a message dated 98-04-14 23:30:46 EDT, you write:

<< 
 I downloaded the first Glass Eye program a few months ago but haven't found
 time to learn to use it. Now the second one it out. Should I learn the first
 one then the second or just move on to the second one and delete the first?
 
 Dianne >^..^<
  >>

Yes, delete the first and download the second....much easier to use....no
learning needed!!

Enjoy...

msh
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From owner-glass Wed Apr 15 05:39:00 1998
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From: Ogeretla2 <Ogeretla2@aol.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Need that calculation...
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 07:35:49 EDT
Message-ID: <1998Apr15.113549.0>
Precedence: bulk

Anyone know the calculation for lampshade height to base height?  ie.  if the
panel lampshade is 13" long the lamp base should be ____ with a ____" harp.

Thanks much,

AJ
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From owner-glass Wed Apr 15 06:19:52 1998
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From: cpesonen@bcinternet.net (Cindy Pesonen)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Sand vs Pressure Blasters
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 05:35:53 -0700 (PDT)
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>To: wmunro@mars.ark.com (Wayne Munro)
>From: cpesonen@bcinternet.net (Cindy Pesonen)
>Subject: Re: Sand vs Pressure Blasters
>
>Hi Wayne,
>You shouldn't have any troubles switching. I just found that when using
glass beads for metal cleaning I had to be careful as it contaminated the
abrasive for photo resist and I had to get it all out. Luckliy I tried it on
a demo piece as I was ready to blast an art award trophy and would have
ruined it.
>Sand is not healthy, brown sand and white crystal silica sand contains free
silica and considered a hazardous material. It has a med. slow etching speed
and recycles only twice.
>Normally as your abrasive wears down, one just keeps filling the pot. Most
of what is dust goes the dust collector and that do can be recycled, but not
much.
>Smiles and chuckles, Cindy
>
>
>>Hi Gang...Does anyone out there use sand in their pressure blaster? I just
>>got a new pressure blaster and don't have any silicon carbide or aluminum
>>oxide (quickly) available and was wondering if sand would be OK. I am
>>presently using sand in my blast cabinet with the siphon system.
>>What kind of problems are there with switching 'back and forth'?
>>Thanks.......Wayne
>>
>>
>>Wayne Munro 'Snail mail' address
>>2960 Suffield Road,
>>Courtenay, B.C. Canada   V9N-3V5
>>
>>ICQ # 2762376
>>Phone and Fax-- (250) 338-5507  
>> "Call before sending a fax so setup is complete"
>>
>>----
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>>
>>

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From owner-glass Wed Apr 15 06:48:42 1998
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From: Witchdoc3 <Witchdoc3@aol.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Tri sodium phosphate
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 09:12:07 EDT
Message-ID: <1998Apr15.13127.0>
Precedence: bulk

Margaret asked:

> Where do you find TSP and in what form?

It's a crystalline salt that usually comes in boxes (about 5 lbs). House
painters have used it forever to clean surfaces for painting and to soak old
stiff "heel-hardened" brushes and get the dried paint out.

> or is there a down side, like your fingers fall off ;-\ ?

As for the "environmental thang": It is a phosphate and obviously it will go
down your drain and eventually into the water supply. But way back (about 3
lifetimes ago <shudder> and <vbg> simultaneously) when I was a chemical
engineering student thinking about going into some kind of environmental
field, I ran across an interesting tidbit of information:

The phosphates the government was scrambling so hard to ban in household
detergents, etc. never amounted to more than 3 to 5% of the total phosphate
load (and most of that goes back into the water supply via commercial sewage
treatment plants, so at least some of it gets removed).

By far the largest phosphate load comes from commercial agricultural
fertilizers, which (again obviously) go straight on the ground and run off
directly into the water supply!

So I wouldn't worry too much about using a little TSP for a tough cleaning
job. I would wear gloves though, because it's alkaline and will dry out your
hands like nobody's business, and avoid breathing the powder from it - the
usual routine safety stuff that we all do without thinking about it <g>

Hope this helps, sorry it's a little long. Happy glass, everyone!


Sparks
crawling back under my rock to finish my taxes >-P
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From owner-glass Wed Apr 15 07:22:41 1998
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X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: Ogeretla2 <Ogeretla2@aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Need that calculation...
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 09:32:41 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr15.53241.0>
References: <<1998Apr15.113549.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Ogeretla2 wrote:
> 
> Anyone know the calculation for lampshade height to base height?  ie.  if the
> panel lampshade is 13" long the lamp base should be ____ with a ____" harp.
> 
> Thanks much,
> 
> AJ
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


well, the harp height should reflect the shade height and maybe be a
little bit longer. i found for proper proportions the base should either
be the height of the shade. or the width of the shade.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
2-2-98 New Pages Added: 22 New Stained Glass Links, 7 New Projects Added
and My Updated Shop Photo's
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From owner-glass Wed Apr 15 07:51:23 1998
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X-Path: az.stratus.com!charlie
From: Charles Spitzer <charlie@az.stratus.com>
To: dodgestudio@juno.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: Re: Mirror Vaccine
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 98 07:02:27 -0700
Message-ID: <m0yPSlm-000LiCC@why.az.stratus.com>
References: <<m0yP7fl-000LiCC@why.az.stratus.com>>
Organization: Customer Assistance Center, Stratus Computer, Inc.
Precedence: bulk

You wrote:
> Charles,
>
> Do you really mean 1/4" mirror?
>
> Gary Dodge              Dodge Studio Designs
>
> <http://www.dodgestudio.com

sorry, brain fart. you're right, it's 1/8" mirror.
---
Charles Spitzer
charlie@az.stratus.com
Phoenix, AZ
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From owner-glass Wed Apr 15 08:23:47 1998
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X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: Witchdoc3 <Witchdoc3@aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Tri sodium phosphate
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 10:10:48 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr15.61048.0>
References: <<1998Apr15.13127.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Witchdoc3 wrote:
> 
> Margaret asked:
> 
> > Where do you find TSP and in what form?
> 
> It's a crystalline salt that usually comes in boxes (about 5 lbs). House
> painters have used it forever to clean surfaces for painting and to soak old
> stiff "heel-hardened" brushes and get the dried paint out.
> 
> > or is there a down side, like your fingers fall off ;-\ ?
> 
> As for the "environmental thang": It is a phosphate and obviously it will go
> down your drain and eventually into the water supply. But way back (about 3
> lifetimes ago <shudder> and <vbg> simultaneously) when I was a chemical
> engineering student thinking about going into some kind of environmental
> field, I ran across an interesting tidbit of information:
> 
> The phosphates the government was scrambling so hard to ban in household
> detergents, etc. never amounted to more than 3 to 5% of the total phosphate
> load (and most of that goes back into the water supply via commercial sewage
> treatment plants, so at least some of it gets removed).
> 
> By far the largest phosphate load comes from commercial agricultural
> fertilizers, which (again obviously) go straight on the ground and run off
> directly into the water supply!
> 
> So I wouldn't worry too much about using a little TSP for a tough cleaning
> job. I would wear gloves though, because it's alkaline and will dry out your
> hands like nobody's business, and avoid breathing the powder from it - the
> usual routine safety stuff that we all do without thinking about it <g>
> 
> Hope this helps, sorry it's a little long. Happy glass, everyone!
> 
> Sparks
> crawling back under my rock to finish my taxes >-P
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

plus they make phosphate free tsp. don't ask my they still call it
tri-sodium phosphate after that though...

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
2-2-98 New Pages Added: 22 New Stained Glass Links, 7 New Projects Added
and My Updated Shop Photo's
----
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From owner-glass Wed Apr 15 08:24:00 1998
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From: DMR74 <DMR74@aol.com>
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Subject: Re: Butyl; pricing insulated units and Tri sodium phosphate
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 10:22:29 EDT
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In a message dated 98-04-14 20:53:47 EDT, you write:

> Where do you find TSP and in what form?  It may be just what I've been
>  looking for. . .or is there a down side, like your fingers fall off ;-\
>  ?
>  
TSP is found in most hardware stores I just bought some to wash my cabinets
down with I understand now though they took out the P I think(but its still
called TSP) and made it a little safer.  It comes in a plastic bucket and is a
dry powder that you mix with water 
deb
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From owner-glass Wed Apr 15 12:02:36 1998
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From: Carl Childers <shyguy@vdot.net>
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Subject: Glass Lover's Weekend
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 14:22:29 -0400
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The big trip is this coming weekend. Any bungians wearing their favorite
elastic product to aid identification?.
Does my foggy memory recall someone making up some fused pins?

And yes, Charles (sorry for the late reply), I'm bringing 3 other people
who like to laugh (and don't get puzzled over my eclectic sense of
humor)
Seat us accordingly.

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From owner-glass Wed Apr 15 13:05:12 1998
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From: Linda Campbell <lcbell@memach.com>
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Subject: WHEW, got out of that one!
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 15:32:05 -0400
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A friend's wife bought a "Tiffany" swag lamp at the Home Emporium. Only =
paid $35 for it and it was "genuine" leaded glue chip and grey cloud =
glass. Well, she probably would have been happy with it except it fell =
during installation and I was asked to look at it to see if I could fix =
it. Well, I went thru the drill of taking it home and inspecting it. I =
was leaded, like a suncatcher. All of the shade' skirt were held in by =
one piece scalloped came and half of the skirt panels were broken out. I =
told them it would be easier to make a new shade than to save this one. =
They are going back to Home Emporium to get another.  Whew.

Linda Campbell

 
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From owner-glass Wed Apr 15 18:49:17 1998
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From: Romajoco <Romajoco@aol.com>
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Subject: Re: Zinc frame
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 20:52:18 EDT
Message-ID: <1998Apr16.05218.0>
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I have seen stained glass at craft shows done by another person and all of her
zinc frames are really black. To me it looks like the frame is painted instead
of patina....has anybody heard of this and if you do it; how does it hold up.

Thanks,

Margie
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From owner-glass Wed Apr 15 19:48:14 1998
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Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 18:58:54 +0000
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Hi Wayne!
I have asked my husband about the sand they use at  his body shop!!. 
He suggests....'' do not to  use sand, as its a good way to plug up 
your machine, also regular sand is dirty.''  He said that silica sand 
is readily available at Cement and Concrete Suppliers.    I have a 
good size bucket here that I use for drying flowers in and I would be 
glad to send it to you but its not like the weight of the wonderful 
video you sent me Wayne......besides what would I use to press 
flowers in????I know..I know I owe you big time!......

ciber-pal
Jen
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From owner-glass Wed Apr 15 20:06:46 1998
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Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 18:52:01 -0500
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You know, somes days it doesn't pay to get out of bed. I set out to make
a small suncatcher type piece, only had 20 pieces, and I couldn't seem
to cut anything with out breaking it. Finally just quite and left my
glass shop. When I went back today the glass cut like butter. Does this
happen to others or just me?

I'm still a 'beginner' and have only completed a couple of leaded panel
but quite a few foiled pieces. Learning from a book has it's drawbacks
but this group has helped me a lot.

Is it necessary to tin foiled pieces? This is my least favorite part of
stained glass. I always seem to burn my fingers or manage to drop the
piece if I try to use pliers. Maybe there is a better way to do this.
Any suggestions?
Nelda

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From owner-glass Wed Apr 15 20:20:20 1998
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From: Elaine <wmagdycz@k12s.phast.umass.edu>
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Re: Zinc frame
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 22:32:13 -0700
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Romajoco wrote:
> 
> I have seen stained glass at craft shows done by another person and all of her
> zinc frames are really black. To me it looks like the frame is painted instead
> of patina....has anybody heard of this and if you do it; how does it hold up.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Margie
> ----
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Hi Margie. The owner of the studio that I frequent has tried paint on
zinc framework because the black patina for zinc doesn't look that
great. She isn't happy with the paint because she said that the paint
has a tendency to chip, but it looks better that patina. Elaine
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From owner-glass Wed Apr 15 21:59:52 1998
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From: "Daniel M. German" <dmg@csg.uwaterloo.ca>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain;  charset=iso-8859-1
Subject: Do-it-yourself spherical lamp patterns
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 00:05:25 -0400
Message-ID: <199804160405.AAA00596@ppp04.uwaterloo.ca>
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Hi SG'ers,

My most recent endeavor featuring glass took me searching for
Styrofoam spheres for a while (I favor spherical shades over panel
ones). I finally found two semi-spheres: one is 21 cm in diameter and
the other is 34 cm. My goal is to make two "Tiffany style lamps" using
these semi-spheres as molds. They look adequate to me and they cost me
less than one dollar each (compared to the commercial molds which are
ridiculously expensive).

Now the next goal is to try to come out with a design for my lamp
--which I considered to be part of the fun.

My question is, has anybody done any design on a semi-spherical
surface? What can anybody suggest?=20

I am thinking about covering the surface with some sort of material
and then draw on top of it. Peel it off and then make the pattern
based on it. I have the feeling that computer software will not be of
much help since it is not tailored towards three dimensional or curve
surfaces.

I am going to start with the small one.=20

One of my questions is whether the depicted objects on a round lamp
are design to be visually correct (in terms of perspective) when seen
from the side (zero degrees), from an angle (45 degrees) or from the
top (90 degrees); or maybe only the object perpendicular to the
tangent is visually correct. Since I have no lamp to check this, I
have to resort to photographs of some lamps with do not totally answer
this question.


Any ideas will be greatly appreciated.


--
Daniel M. German                  "A coin symbolizes our free will"
                                   El Zah=EDr, Jorge Luis Borges
http://csgwww.uwaterloo.ca/~dmg/home.html
dmg@csg.uwaterloo.ca

=20
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From owner-glass Wed Apr 15 22:17:24 1998
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Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 22:57:21 -0500
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430 messages when I got back from Florida, none since?????(10 DAYS)
Don <eldondo1@juno.com>

_____________________________________________________________________
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From owner-glass Wed Apr 15 23:30:01 1998
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From: dodgestudio@juno.com
To: fibers@wcnet.net
Subject: Re: (no subject)
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 01:36:11 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr15.213611.0>
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Bad Days?

Went through that occasionally for the first few years of doing glass. 
After you reach a certain point that goes away forever.

Gary Dodge              Dodge Studio Designs

http://www.dodgestudio.com

On Wed, 15 Apr 1998 18:52:01 -0500 fibers@wcnet.net (fibers) writes:
>You know, somes days it doesn't pay to get out of bed. I set out to 
>make
>a small suncatcher type piece, only had 20 pieces, and I couldn't seem
>to cut anything with out breaking it. Finally just quite and left my
>glass shop. When I went back today the glass cut like butter. Does 
>this
>happen to others or just me?
>
>I'm still a 'beginner' and have only completed a couple of leaded 
>panel
>but quite a few foiled pieces. Learning from a book has it's drawbacks
>but this group has helped me a lot.
>
>Is it necessary to tin foiled pieces? This is my least favorite part 
>of
>stained glass. I always seem to burn my fingers or manage to drop the
>piece if I try to use pliers. Maybe there is a better way to do this.
>Any suggestions?
>Nelda
>

_____________________________________________________________________
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From owner-glass Thu Apr 16 03:56:27 1998
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From: Linda Campbell <lcbell@memach.com>
To: "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>,
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: RE: Do-it-yourself spherical lamp patterns
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 06:20:03 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr16.2203.0>
Precedence: bulk

I have not done a spherical lamp but I am an engineer/draftsman type. I =
would think that you would make your design ignoring any distortion that =
may be seen on the sides. I think our eyes/brain is quite capable of =
recognizing the foreshortening and adjust out perception of the pattern =
without any adjustment. Besides, as you moved around the lamp, you would =
have to have adjusted some other area.

Just my 2 cents of course.

Linda Campbell





Daniel said:

One of my questions is whether the depicted objects on a round lamp
are design to be visually correct (in terms of perspective) when seen
from the side (zero degrees), from an angle (45 degrees) or from the
top (90 degrees); or maybe only the object perpendicular to the
tangent is visually correct. Since I have no lamp to check this, I
have to resort to photographs of some lamps with do not totally answer
this question.


Any ideas will be greatly appreciated.



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From owner-glass Thu Apr 16 05:01:03 1998
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From: glasschic <joyce@mail.bright.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Re: Need that calculation...
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 07:22:07 -0400
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At 07:35 AM 4/15/98 EDT, Ogeretla2 wrote:
>Anyone know the calculation for lampshade height to base height?  ie.  if the
>panel lampshade is 13" long the lamp base should be ____ with a ____" harp.
>
>Thanks much,


It all depends......some 13" lamps have a lot of slope to them and they
actually hang down farther than others with less slope.  So, I have found
there really is no set formula for these things.  I really advise my
students to make the shade they love first and go to a well stocked store
and try it on a variety of sizes of bases and see what works the best.
Remember too that harps can be changed and risers can be used for bases
that are fine, but maybe just not quite right.

Garden of Glass
Joyce Moran

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From owner-glass Thu Apr 16 07:05:12 1998
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From: P D RUSS <PDRUSS@aol.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Zinc frame
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 09:42:25 EDT
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In a message dated 98-04-15 21:50:03 EDT, you write:

<< 
 I have seen stained glass at craft shows done by another person and all of
her
 zinc frames are really black. To me it looks like the frame is painted
instead
 of patina....has anybody heard of this and if you do it; how does it hold up.
 
 Thanks,
 
 Margie >>




You tape off the inside glass area with newpaper and masking tape and spray
paint the frame.

Dianne
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From owner-glass Thu Apr 16 07:31:07 1998
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From: "Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: to Tin or not to Tin...
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 09:41:19 -0400
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Message text written by Nelda:
>Is it necessary to tin foiled pieces? This is my least favorite part of
stained glass. I always seem to burn my fingers or manage to drop the
piece if I try to use pliers. Maybe there is a better way to do this.
Any suggestions?<

Using your 20-piece suncatcher as an example, it is not necessary
to tin each piece prior to soldering the whole thing together.
Just layout the suncatcher, secure it to your soldering surface (I
use a cork bulletin board and push pens), then solder away.

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles, P.O.Box 903, Skippack, PA 19474-0903
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From owner-glass Thu Apr 16 07:33:44 1998
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From: "Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Do-it-yourself spherical lamp patterns
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 09:41:24 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr16.54124.0>
Precedence: bulk

Message text written by "Daniel M. German"
>My question is, has anybody done any design on a semi-spherical
surface? What can anybody suggest?=3D20

I am thinking about covering the surface with some sort of material
and then draw on top of it. Peel it off and then make the pattern
based on it. I have the feeling that computer software will not be of
much help since it is not tailored towards three dimensional or curve
surfaces.<

Cover the surface with masking tape layed in vertical overlapping
strips.  Draw your pattern on this.  Carefully cut a "join line" from
top to bottom.  Peel away the masking tape from the mold.

Oh, heck...buy the book, "The Lampmaking Handbook" by
Joe Porcelli.  It gives complete instructions on how to build
your own lamp pattern using spherical molds.  It's a great book
and gives detailed photos as well of all the steps.  Well worth
the $$.

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles, P.O.Box 903, Skippack, PA 19474-0903
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From owner-glass Thu Apr 16 08:09:36 1998
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: fibers <fibers@wcnet.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: (no subject)
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 10:23:58 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr16.62358.0>
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Precedence: bulk

fibers wrote:
> 
> You know, somes days it doesn't pay to get out of bed. I set out to make
> a small suncatcher type piece, only had 20 pieces, and I couldn't seem
> to cut anything with out breaking it. Finally just quite and left my
> glass shop. When I went back today the glass cut like butter. Does this
> happen to others or just me?
> 
> I'm still a 'beginner' and have only completed a couple of leaded panel
> but quite a few foiled pieces. Learning from a book has it's drawbacks
> but this group has helped me a lot.
> 
> Is it necessary to tin foiled pieces? This is my least favorite part of
> stained glass. I always seem to burn my fingers or manage to drop the
> piece if I try to use pliers. Maybe there is a better way to do this.
> Any suggestions?
> Nelda
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


cutting: it depends what the colors were. each color and company cut's
differently. like the colors you may have been using when the breaks
were occuring could have been kokomo, which does'nt score very well. or
armstrong, which somtimes tends to stray. when you came back the next
piece could have been spectrum, which cuts and breaks well... i give a
brief description of the glass companies on my page.

tinning: the only time to tin is after the project is soldered together.
some places say you should tin everything before hand, but that wastes
time, and you may get solder peaks etc. tinning is considered a last
step. when you do go to tin, keep the piece over the table, at an angle
(the angle like pouring water from a pitcher). and tin downward. top to
bottom. keeping your fingers away from the heat...

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
2-2-98 New Pages Added: 22 New Stained Glass Links, 7 New Projects Added
and My Updated Shop Photo's
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From owner-glass Thu Apr 16 08:41:29 1998
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From: cpesonen@bcinternet.net (Cindy Pesonen)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Zinc frame
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 07:41:07 -0700 (PDT)
Message-ID: <199804161441.HAA21029@ns2.vphos.net>
Precedence: bulk

>Hi guys,
I've never tried this product, and I don't know if this has been mentioned
as being used. Novacan makes a black patina for zinc.
The instructions go like this
1. remove all oxidization with 00 steel wool (no metal product)
2. clean surface with vinegar (this allows for a more uniform/dark color)
3. rinse with water
4. wipe chemical on zinc with plastic handle brush, q-tip, paper towel, etc.
5. let patina sit on zinc for desired color tone
6. gently remove excess with clean cloth
7.
let chemical air dry/hard


PS I've found out that most patina's are a chemical tarnish, causing an
oxidized surface, which is why they can be polished off.
Also found out that copper patina's actually brush plate. With lead being a
postive conductor and there is a chemical change.
(just little notes I've collected over the past that I found interesting to
save)
Smiles, Cindy 
>
>
>----
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>
>

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From owner-glass Thu Apr 16 09:19:14 1998
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From: "Lyndsay Dustan" <dustlm@uleth.ca>
To: LByrne21 <LByrne21@aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: color version of catalog
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 09:49:43 -0700
Message-ID: <1998Apr16.24943.0>
References: <<1998Apr13.221032.0>>
Organization: University of Lethbridge 
Precedence: bulk

So How does one acquire the catalog?? Is it free? What is the address?

LByrne21 wrote:

> Not only is the W-C catalog sensational to look at (because of it's colors and
> ideas)...it also, has the best prices around.  THE "Wish Book For Glass
> Things" can make it become a reality for you.  The only thing better is a trip
> in person to W-C, if possible.
>
>                                               Lavergne (the lurker)
> ----
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> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass



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From owner-glass Thu Apr 16 09:43:05 1998
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X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: "Daniel M. German" <dmg@csg.uwaterloo.ca>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Do-it-yourself spherical lamp patterns
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 10:29:43 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr16.62943.0>
References: <<199804160405.AAA00596@ppp04.uwaterloo.ca>>
Precedence: bulk

Daniel M. German wrote:
> 
> Hi SG'ers,
> 
> My most recent endeavor featuring glass took me searching for
> Styrofoam spheres for a while (I favor spherical shades over panel
> ones). I finally found two semi-spheres: one is 21 cm in diameter and
> the other is 34 cm. My goal is to make two "Tiffany style lamps" using
> these semi-spheres as molds. They look adequate to me and they cost me
> less than one dollar each (compared to the commercial molds which are
> ridiculously expensive).
> 
> Now the next goal is to try to come out with a design for my lamp
> --which I considered to be part of the fun.
> 
> My question is, has anybody done any design on a semi-spherical
> surface? What can anybody suggest?=20
> 
> I am thinking about covering the surface with some sort of material
> and then draw on top of it. Peel it off and then make the pattern
> based on it. I have the feeling that computer software will not be of
> much help since it is not tailored towards three dimensional or curve
> surfaces.
> 
> I am going to start with the small one.=20
> 
> One of my questions is whether the depicted objects on a round lamp
> are design to be visually correct (in terms of perspective) when seen
> from the side (zero degrees), from an angle (45 degrees) or from the
> top (90 degrees); or maybe only the object perpendicular to the
> tangent is visually correct. Since I have no lamp to check this, I
> have to resort to photographs of some lamps with do not totally answer
> this question.
> 
> Any ideas will be greatly appreciated.
> 
> --
> Daniel M. German                  "A coin symbolizes our free will"
>                                    El Zah=EDr, Jorge Luis Borges
> http://csgwww.uwaterloo.ca/~dmg/home.html
> dmg@csg.uwaterloo.ca
> 
> =20
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


first of all, i was wondering where you got the styrofoam from, i've
been looking around for large sizes like that.... 

as for design... currently i'm working on skycity, in wich the center is
round, it's going to have a sunset and tree's... though it will go with
the rest of the theme.

it's hard to say what you would like. since you have a 360 degree form
now, you don't have to break it up in sections. so butterflies in
flight, roses, flowers etc., can be used. as for transfer, i'm still not
sure. when i go to transfer my thing, i may use plastic wrap, and do
several transfers...

check out my tips section, and look for "my adventures with mold
making", since i used styrofoam before, and i explained what i did.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
2-2-98 New Pages Added: 22 New Stained Glass Links, 7 New Projects Added
and My Updated Shop Photo's
----
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From owner-glass Thu Apr 16 11:20:23 1998
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From: Witchdoc3 <Witchdoc3@aol.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Zinc frame
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 13:40:13 EDT
Message-ID: <1998Apr16.174013.0>
Precedence: bulk

> You tape off the inside glass area with newpaper and
> masking tape and spray paint the frame. 
> 
> Dianne

Seems to me you'd want to use something that dries very hard like Krylon, or
automotive touch-up paint, and put several coats on. And some kind of good
metal primer first wouldn't hurt, either.


Sparks
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From owner-glass Thu Apr 16 11:44:42 1998
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X-Path: az.stratus.com!charlie
From: Charles Spitzer <charlie@az.stratus.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: Re: Do-it-yourself spherical lamp patterns
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 98 09:54:45 -0700
Message-ID: <m0yPrvz-000LiCC@why.az.stratus.com>
References: <<199804160405.AAA00596@ppp04.uwaterloo.ca>>
Organization: Customer Assistance Center, Stratus Computer, Inc.
Precedence: bulk

You wrote:
> Hi SG'ers,
>
> My most recent endeavor featuring glass took me searching for
> Styrofoam spheres for a while (I favor spherical shades over panel
> ones). I finally found two semi-spheres: one is 21 cm in diameter and
> the other is 34 cm. My goal is to make two "Tiffany style lamps" using
> these semi-spheres as molds. They look adequate to me and they cost me
> less than one dollar each (compared to the commercial molds which are
> ridiculously expensive).
>
> Now the next goal is to try to come out with a design for my lamp
> --which I considered to be part of the fun.
>
> My question is, has anybody done any design on a semi-spherical
> surface? What can anybody suggest?=20

see http://www.enol.com/~bbassett/globe/index.html for a good idea with pictures.

>
> I am thinking about covering the surface with some sort of material
> and then draw on top of it. Peel it off and then make the pattern
> based on it. I have the feeling that computer software will not be of
> much help since it is not tailored towards three dimensional or curve
> surfaces.

if i were to try this, i'd try that heat shrink wrap that they use at places  
for tying boxes together. you might even make it flat on the sphere without  
folds by using a hair dryer.

>
> One of my questions is whether the depicted objects on a round lamp
> are design to be visually correct (in terms of perspective) when seen
> from the side (zero degrees), from an angle (45 degrees) or from the
> top (90 degrees); or maybe only the object perpendicular to the
> tangent is visually correct. Since I have no lamp to check this, I
> have to resort to photographs of some lamps with do not totally answer
> this question.

if it's only going to be visible from one side, then you want to make it be  
perspectively correct from that side. if it's going to be visible from all  
sides, then how do you plan on making it correct when the viewer moves around  
it? i'd do it so that viewing it straight on would be correct, and your mind  
would correct the picture if you look at it off center.

of course, if you're going to make a ceiling light (inverted 1/2 sphere) then  
you have to make it be perspectively correct from directly underneath. see  
some michelangelo ceilings for examples. the sides have a different  
perspective closeup and viewed dead on at the same level as opposed to from  
the floor underneath them.

---
Charles Spitzer
charlie@az.stratus.com
Customer Assistance Center
Stratus Computer, Inc.
Phoenix, AZ
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From owner-glass Thu Apr 16 12:17:32 1998
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X-Path: compuserve.com!GreerStudios
From: "Michael J. Greer" <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: All <GLASS@BUNGI.COM>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: English Muffle
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 14:52:41 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr16.105241.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hi all-

I'm having a heck of a time getting
English Muffle from our two whole-
salers in Colorado.  Is anyone else
experiencing  this problem?  I also
heard a while back that an American
manufacturer had acquired the company
that made muffle - can any of our
Australian friends comment on that?
Sure would hate to be without Midnight
Blue for the rest of my days!

Best regards,

Dani Greer
Greer Gallery & Studios
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From owner-glass Thu Apr 16 12:46:27 1998
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From: "Daniel M. German" <dmg@csg.uwaterloo.ca>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain;  charset=iso-8859-1
Subject: Re: Do-it-yourself spherical lamp patterns
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 15:15:59 -0400
Message-ID: <199804161915.PAA00485@csgpppproxy2.uwaterloo.ca>
References: <<199804160405.AAA00596@ppp04.uwaterloo.ca>>
Precedence: bulk


M Savad twistes the bytes to say:

First of all, thanks to those who have and will answer to my
message. As usual, this list is omniscient when it comes to glass. 

 M> first of all, i was wondering where you got the styrofoam from, i've
 M> been looking around for large sizes like that.... 

I got them from downtown Mexico City where I was in a fast trip last
week. They had three large sizes for semi-spherical: 31cm, something
around 50cm and 25cm and the largest spherical was 21cm, which I split
in halves.

--
Daniel M. German                  "Compared to the real life, 
                                   even the best on-line "virtual spaces"
    The Economist ->                are cartoons"
http://csgwww.uwaterloo.ca/~dmg/home.html
dmg@csg.uwaterloo.ca

 
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From owner-glass Thu Apr 16 13:17:29 1998
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From: "Laurean E. Clover" <vlclover@rconnect.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Robin
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 15:01:15 -0700
Message-ID: <1998Apr16.8115.0>
Organization: Lone Tree Homeschool
Precedence: bulk

Robin,
could you please email me your snail mail.
I can't find the envelope with your address.
Thanks!

Laurean
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From owner-glass Thu Apr 16 13:36:23 1998
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From: Hi imLaura <HiimLaura@aol.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: color version of catalog
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 16:02:17 EDT
Message-ID: <1998Apr16.20217.0>
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I think the catalog is free if you spend $50. If not, I think it is $5.  Their
number is
1-800-523-4242.

Laura in Allentown
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From owner-glass Thu Apr 16 13:44:19 1998
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X-Path: teleport.com!weaver51
From: "Howard and Elaine Rubin" <weaver51@teleport.com>
To: "Charles Spitzer" <charlie@az.stratus.com>, <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: judgement
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 12:29:11 -0700
Message-ID: <1998Apr16.52911.0>
Precedence: bulk

Spend some time looking at the originals....a book store or a library may
have books of the original Tiffanies, if you do not have of your own.

See what you like and do not like, look a color
phasing/background/flower/leaf/filigree/ and over all appearance. They
(Tiffanies) are STILL "in vogue" and certainly have appreciated in value
over the years.

A full, no repeat scene can only be viewed at about a third of the shade.

You can do a multiple repeat shade and vary the colors and pattern pieces to
be flowers, leaves or background. I am doing a 16" hydrangea and it is good
example of varying pieces and their treatment.

If you intend to view up-side down (inverted) the over-all flow of the shade
is MORE critical as you WILL see it in its entirety.

Lots of ways to "build a dome...EVEN on the inside of a large (or whatever
size) bowl....Tacky wax will hold the pieces on....use a clear bowl so you
can "see" the colors as they go on.

MAKE sure you anticipate the hardware requirements BEFORE you start!!!!!!

enjoy, H

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From owner-glass Thu Apr 16 14:19:59 1998
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X-Path: pobox.com!Northernlights
From: "Northernlights (Tracy Reitmann)" <Northernlights@pobox.com>
To: glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: wood frames
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 15:54:18 -0500
Message-ID: <1998Apr16.105418.0>
Organization: http://members.tripod.com/~Northernlights/index.html
Precedence: bulk

A while back (I think there was still quite a bit of snow on the ground 
yet), someone posted that he was making wood frames for panels.  
Unfortunately I've been too thorough in my "computer cleaning" and don't 
have that e-mail anymore.  Anybody remember who that was and could point 
me in the right direction???  Thanks!!!

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From owner-glass Thu Apr 16 15:49:21 1998
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From: Yegnim <Yegnim@aol.com>
To: Northernlights@pobox.com, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: wood frames
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 18:22:59 EDT
Message-ID: <1998Apr16.222259.0>
Precedence: bulk

For very good prices on wooden frames e-mail:  johnnyc@mercury.net
If you send him your snail mail address, he will send you a price list.
Lenore
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From owner-glass Thu Apr 16 16:21:14 1998
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From: CWWSLW <CWWSLW@aol.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: tinning
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 19:01:22 EDT
Message-ID: <1998Apr16.23122.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hi Nelda,
   I know I sometimes have days when glass just won't break the way I want it
to. Yes, its sometimes best to just walk away for a while. The more frustrated
you get, the worse your problem.  Besides, stained glass is a way for me to
RELAX.
  As far as tinning goes.. I have never tinned the edges of each piece before
I put it all together. Is this what your'e talking about? I just put all
pieces together and tack solder in a few places to keep it from moving around.
  Another note....
Bungi pals, please keep those poor folks in B'ham in your prayers. I live
about 75 mles north of them. We had trees blown over and other slight damage
from last weeks storms, but nothing like the devistation down there. You never
know how blessed you are till something like this occurs.

 Thanks,
Susan
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From owner-glass Thu Apr 16 18:27:37 1998
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X-Path: compuserve.com!GreerStudios
From: "Michael J. Greer" <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: "Davis, Denise F" <dfdavis@ou.edu>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: RE: English Muffle
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 20:43:09 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr16.16439.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hi Denise-

I don't have much luck getting =

Wissmach here in Colorado.  In
fact, I had a special order in with
them (thru D&L) and after over a year of not
being able to get the glass, I went
to Plan B and cancelled the order.
I've also heard that Wissmach is
a distributor for English Muffle and
that doesn't fill me with much hope!
I think Paul Wissmach is so busy
shipping glass to China, he isn't =

paying much attention to his accounts
in America!  Doesn't make ME feel
very loyal.

Best regards,

Dani Greer
Greer Gallery & Studios
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From owner-glass Thu Apr 16 20:02:37 1998
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X-Path: eagle.ca!glass
From: glass@eagle.ca (Sarah)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Zinc frame
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 22:36:08 -0400
Message-ID: <v01530501b15c6ee6d946@[206.186.242.87]>
Precedence: bulk

If you want to get a really jet black finish on your zinc, scrub the
daylights out of it with a brass brush (steel wool will work too, but could
scratch the glass) just before you apply the patina. Of course, be sure
that all traces of flux have been removed. Also, Classique brand patinas
work much better than Novocan.

Sarah


>Romajoco wrote:
>>
>> I have seen stained glass at craft shows done by another person and all
>>of her
>> zinc frames are really black. To me it looks like the frame is painted
>>instead
>> of patina....has anybody heard of this and if you do it; how does it hold up.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Margie
>> ----
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>
>Hi Margie. The owner of the studio that I frequent has tried paint on
>zinc framework because the black patina for zinc doesn't look that
>great. She isn't happy with the paint because she said that the paint
>has a tendency to chip, but it looks better that patina. Elaine
>----
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From owner-glass Thu Apr 16 21:04:16 1998
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X-Path: juno.com!dodgestudio
From: dodgestudio@juno.com
To: joyce@mail.bright.net
Subject: Re: Need that calculation...
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 23:19:37 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr16.191937.0>
References: <<3.0.32.19980416072157.00687ed8@mail.bright.net>>
Precedence: bulk

I agree about the trying on thing, but when checking the bases be sure to
take into account where the lamp will be placed.  A base that looks good
when the lamp is placed on a dresser may look rediculous if you place the
lamp down low on a coffee table.


Gary Dodge              Dodge Studio Designs

http://www.dodgestudio.com

,
>
>
>It all depends......some 13" lamps have a lot of slope to them and 
>they
>actually hang down farther than others with less slope.  So, I have 
>found
>there really is no set formula for these things.  I really advise my
>students to make the shade they love first and go to a well stocked 
>store
>and try it on a variety of sizes of bases and see what works the best.
>Remember too that harps can be changed and risers can be used for 
>bases
>that are fine, but maybe just not quite right.
>
>Garden of Glass
>Joyce Moran
>
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>

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From owner-glass Thu Apr 16 21:19:39 1998
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X-Path: juno.com!dodgestudio
From: dodgestudio@juno.com
To: GreerStudios@compuserve.com
Subject: Re: English Muffle
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 23:24:27 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr16.192427.0>
References: <<1998Apr16.105241.0>>
Precedence: bulk

I was just over at Bendheim today and went to pick out some muffle and
most of the racks were empty.  And yes, they only say English Muffle on
the gold tags on the sheest, but the glass comes from Paden City, West
Virginia.  Kinda like a misrepresentaton or sumpthin'  eh?

It's not really an acquisition, but a reproduction thing.


Gary Dodge              Dodge Studio Designs

http://www.dodgestudio.com

On Thu, 16 Apr 1998 14:52:41 -0400 "Michael J. Greer"
<GreerStudios@compuserve.com> writes:
>Hi all-
>
>I'm having a heck of a time getting
>English Muffle from our two whole-
>salers in Colorado.  Is anyone else
>experiencing  this problem?  I also
>heard a while back that an American
>manufacturer had acquired the company
>that made muffle - can any of our
>Australian friends comment on that?
>Sure would hate to be without Midnight
>Blue for the rest of my days!
>
>Best regards,
>
>Dani Greer
>Greer Gallery & Studios

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From owner-glass Thu Apr 16 21:36:09 1998
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From: dodgestudio@juno.com
To: charlie@az.stratus.com
Subject: Re: Do-it-yourself spherical lamp patterns
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 23:09:16 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr16.19916.0>
References: <<199804160405.AAA00596@ppp04.uwaterloo.ca>>>
Precedence: bulk

Charlie!

Back in 73' I worked at  a place where we used the shrink wrap packing
machines for just that purpose.  We'd shrink wrap the old wooden lamp
forms and draw the designs right on them, then cut the plastic up for
patterns.  I forgot all about it until I read your post!


Gary Dodge              Dodge Studio Designs

http://www.dodgestudio.com

On Thu, 16 Apr 98 09:54:45 -0700 Charles Spitzer <charlie@az.stratus.com>
writes:


>see http://www.enol.com/~bbassett/globe/index.html for a good idea 

>
>if i were to try this, i'd try that heat shrink wrap that they use at 
>places  
>for tying boxes together. you might even make it flat on the sphere 
>without  
>folds by using a hair dryer.
>

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From owner-glass Fri Apr 17 03:45:33 1998
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From: Yegnim <Yegnim@aol.com>
To: CWWSLW@aol.com, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: tinning/glass cutting
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 06:22:23 EDT
Message-ID: <1998Apr17.102223.0>
Precedence: bulk

Nelda,
Tinning is usually not required before assembly.  One case where it would be
necessary is if you were making a box with a mirror bottom with clear or
whispy glass and it would be dependent on the assembly of the sides.  With
certain assemblies you can see thru the glass and the copper colored foil is
obvious.  I always wear gloves especially for tinning.  Hold the piece with
your fingers upright.  Tin around the top of the entire piece.  Then lay the
piece down and tin the foil that is on the front and back of the piece. You
should not burn your fingers if you tin this way.  Hope this makes sense.  Let
me know privately if it doesn't and I will send you a sketch describing the
above method.  Hope this helps.
You are doing the best thing possible!  when you cannot break the glass, just
walk away, do something else and go back to it later.(only strategy to use)
There is glass out there which has not been properly annealed (the cool down
time was not done properly) and it will not cut the right way for you.  You
can tell yourself that possibly it is the glass too!  So when you go back,
start out with a different glass (if you can).  There have been times when I
just placed the remainder of the glass sheet back in the rack and chose an
alternate piece.  This can work wonders for your cutting abilities.  Sometimes
it REALLY is the glass.  Good Luck!

Lenore
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From owner-glass Fri Apr 17 06:22:18 1998
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From: "Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: wood frames
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 09:00:06 -0400
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Here's the info Tracy requested:

West, Jonny & Janice
1951 SE 52 ST
Ocala, FL 34480
352-622-8303
email: johnnyc@mercury.net
member: bungi.com
custom wood frames for stained glass

Reasonable prices.
Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles, P.O.Box 903, Skippack, PA 19474-0903
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From owner-glass Fri Apr 17 07:17:56 1998
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From: "Don McDonald" <don@chescom.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Storm Doors
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 08:20:52 +0000
Message-ID: <199804170756.CAA01286@eve.corp.chescom.net>
Precedence: bulk

Has anyone ever made a panel for the top part of an aluminum storm 
door, the kind with the lower panel that raises?  I've had someone 
ask about this and am concerned that the aluminum frame would not 
support the weight of a panel.  Any ideas?

Don M. McDonald
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From owner-glass Fri Apr 17 07:51:16 1998
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: Don McDonald <don@chescom.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Storm Doors
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 10:34:27 -0400
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Don McDonald wrote:
> 
> Has anyone ever made a panel for the top part of an aluminum storm
> door, the kind with the lower panel that raises?  I've had someone
> ask about this and am concerned that the aluminum frame would not
> support the weight of a panel.  Any ideas?
> 
> Don M. McDonald
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


i'd probably be more concerned with the constant closing of the door,
along with the flexibility of the door.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
2-2-98 New Pages Added: 22 New Stained Glass Links, 7 New Projects Added
and My Updated Shop Photo's
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From owner-glass Fri Apr 17 10:57:45 1998
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From: Gloria & George <3hounds@usaor.net>
To: "'Peggy W. Johnsen'" <edupjohn@slonet.org>,
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Subject: RE: stepping stone stability
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 11:53:08 -0100
Message-ID: <1998Apr17.10538.0>
Precedence: bulk


Hi Peggy,
Glad I am able to get back to you..  I used the brand name Sakrete =
(cement) ..    Bought at any hardware store.. Before getting started, I =
build a seive (spelling).. Used 2 by 4, (why are they called 2 by 4 =
since their size is much smaller)  made a square frame 2 feet x 2 feet =
and the sales person sold me the nylon netting instead of the  aluminum =
screening, and this worked very well..  Took the Sakcrete and sieved the =
stones out of it ( save the stones, they can be used with sand for the =
stone to be placed on - the 2 inches for drainage/ freezing in the yard) =
 I seived enough for a 16 inch hexagon that I thought would cover about =
1/2 inch of the hexegon mold, believe this, this measurement came from =
what I thought  the constinticy with water would cover that demension if =
I was icing a cake ( also it has to be a thick soup texture, like mud =
more that soup) ..   Since I wanted my stone to be black, I added liquid =
Ritz dye (black).. Did not add the whole package, but to this day, the =
stone is still charcoal deep grey in color ( did want to try other dyes, =
and remember the grey of the cement + the color of the dye will be =
darker than the color of the dye unless you can bleach white the =
cement). Once I reached the 1/2 inch I mixed more Sakcrete not seived..  =
The mold was 2 inches...  I placed another 1/2 inch of concrete  and =
than placed the chicken wire which was pre cut to the 16 inch hexagon =
mold.. ( would like to try the other reinforcement- the stuff they used =
in repairing car   bodies)  I forced it into the the cement and than =
added the last inch of concrete..The garden stone I left in the mold for =
a week.. and than placed in the garden..=20

Also remember to vibrate the air bubbles out.. I just kept shaking the =
mold..=20

Also at the first stage when the cement was like icing, I forced  it =
through   the glass pieces that that were about 1/16 inches  between the =
pieces..  Used a scraper and really forced it into the seam...   The =
glass was placed over contact paper that held the pieces in places..  =
This acted like a grouting ( the icing type constincy  without stone =
Sakcrete) ,  so when the  garden stone was removed from the mold, no =
additional grouting was required..  Hope this helps.
Take care..

Also, I did not wish to offend the women or men  who worked so hard to =
craft glass and I believe the people who craft  deserve all the hard =
earned income they receive from their labours.. When referring to 3rd =
world,  I was referring to the pay limitations to our standards which =
make it harder for  our craftsman/artists to compete in our markets, at =
a barely living  make the bill payment wage..=20
I do never want to offend any of God's children.. Life is too short.
Take care,
Gloria and my three hounds

-----Original Message-----
From:	Peggy W. Johnsen [SMTP:edupjohn@slonet.org]
Sent:	Wednesday, April 15, 1998 1:13 PM
To:	Gloria & George
Subject:	RE: stepping stone stability

Gloria:

How much concrete did you use.  Was it the regular or quick type.  Do =
you
have the recipe that you used?  Am getting ready to pour a stone and =
have
lots of questions.  Peggy


=00=00
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From owner-glass Fri Apr 17 15:03:35 1998
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: "Michael J. Greer" <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: English Muffle
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 22:14:47 +0100
Message-ID: <1998Apr17.231447.0>
References: <<1998Apr16.105241.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk

Well, I just as well exhibit my ignorance to all.

I thought English muffle was made by Wissmach in the USA.

Who does make it?
Steve
#
In message <1998Apr16.105241.0@?>, "Michael J. Greer"
<GreerStudios@compuserve.com> writes
>Hi all-
>
>I'm having a heck of a time getting
>English Muffle from our two whole-
>salers in Colorado.  Is anyone else
>experiencing  this problem?  I also
>heard a while back that an American
>manufacturer had acquired the company
>that made muffle - can any of our
>Australian friends comment on that?
>Sure would hate to be without Midnight
>Blue for the rest of my days!
>
>Best regards,
>
>Dani Greer
>Greer Gallery & Studios
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Fri Apr 17 15:33:05 1998
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: "Daniel M. German" <dmg@csg.uwaterloo.ca>
Subject: Re: Do-it-yourself spherical lamp patterns
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 21:54:12 +0100
Message-ID: <1998Apr17.225412.0>
References: <<199804160405.AAA00596@ppp04.uwaterloo.ca>>
Precedence: bulk

Daniel,

I'm sure you willget lots of responses to this, but....

A number of your questions are answered by Joe Procelli's book "The
Lampmaking Handbook"

Get a copy from your bookseller or library, because it will tellyou alot
about designing lamps.

In message <199804160405.AAA00596@ppp04.uwaterloo.ca>, "Daniel M.
German" <dmg@csg.uwaterloo.ca> writes
>
>Hi SG'ers,
>
>
>My question is, has anybody done any design on a semi-spherical
>surface? What can anybody suggest?=20
>
I made a lamp from papier mache (it took a long time to dry, but was
exactly the shape I wanted).  
Then covered it with several layers of masking tape.  put the design
onto the mould (in five repeats)  That is, i did the design once, but in
a size to require four more copies to go all the way round.  
Then I cut the masking tape on the inscribed lines and put them onto
clear plastic, giving me accurate templates from which to cut.

........
>
>One of my questions is whether the depicted objects on a round lamp
>are design to be visually correct (in terms of perspective) when seen
>from the side (zero degrees), from an angle (45 degrees) or from the
>top (90 degrees); or maybe only the object perpendicular to the
>tangent is visually correct. Since I have no lamp to check this, I
>have to resort to photographs of some lamps with do not totally answer
>this question.
>
I think you have to use a bit of stylisation.. Don't try for the
realistic image, as it has many potential view points.  Go for colour,
form and line.
>
>Any ideas will be greatly appreciated.
>

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Fri Apr 17 15:42:13 1998
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From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Elaine <wmagdycz@k12s.phast.umass.edu>
Subject: Re: Zinc frame
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 21:57:32 +0100
Message-ID: <1998Apr17.225732.0>
References: <<1998Apr15.153213.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk

In message <1998Apr15.153213.0@?>, Elaine <wmagdycz@k12s.phast.umass.edu
> writes
>Romajoco wrote:
>> 
>> I have seen stained glass at craft shows done by another person and all of her
>> zinc frames are really black. To me it looks like the frame is painted instead
>> of patina....has anybody heard of this and if you do it; how does it hold up.
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> Margie
>> ----
>> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
>Hi Margie. The owner of the studio that I frequent has tried paint on
>zinc framework because the black patina for zinc doesn't look that
>great. She isn't happy with the paint because she said that the paint
>has a tendency to chip, but it looks better that patina. Elaine
>----

Lead perimeter came takes up a dark patina through the cementing
process.  No extra work painting, and it lasts and doesn't chip

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Fri Apr 17 16:02:08 1998
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: to Tin or not to Tin...
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 22:03:10 +0100
Message-ID: <1998Apr17.23310.0>
References: <<1998Apr16.54119.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk

In message <1998Apr16.54119.0@?>, Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo
<Ensembles@compuserve.com> writes
>Message text written by Nelda:
>>Is it necessary to tin foiled pieces? This is my least favorite part of
>stained glass. I always seem to burn my fingers or manage to drop the
>piece if I try to use pliers. Maybe there is a better way to do this.
>Any suggestions?<
>
>Using your 20-piece suncatcher as an example, it is not necessary
>to tin each piece prior to soldering the whole thing together.
>Just layout the suncatcher, secure it to your soldering surface (I
>use a cork bulletin board and push pens), then solder away.
>
>Christie A. Wood
>Art Glass Ensembles, P.O.Box 903, Skippack, PA 19474-0903
>----
Christie,
I'm not trying to contradict you, but I find that tinning pieces for 3-D
projects is almost essential.
When tinning, I use one of two (or a combination of them) methods:
1)  place piece flat, tin upper edge; turn over, tin edge now uppermost.
Turn on edge and use the exess to tin the remaining edge..   If it is
small I use method 2  -

2) I use a rubber jawed table vice which has a ball joint as well as the
vice jaws.  this allows the piece to be held with the edge horizontal
(by small movements as you progress along the piece)


-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Fri Apr 17 16:45:13 1998
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X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: English Muffle
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 19:00:22 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr17.15022.0>
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Steve Richard wrote:
> 
> Well, I just as well exhibit my ignorance to all.
> 
> I thought English muffle was made by Wissmach in the USA.
> 
> Who does make it?
> Steve
> #
> In message <1998Apr16.105241.0@?>, "Michael J. Greer"
> <GreerStudios@compuserve.com> writes
> >Hi all-
> >
> >I'm having a heck of a time getting
> >English Muffle from our two whole-
> >salers in Colorado.  Is anyone else
> >experiencing  this problem?  I also
> >heard a while back that an American
> >manufacturer had acquired the company
> >that made muffle - can any of our
> >Australian friends comment on that?
> >Sure would hate to be without Midnight
> >Blue for the rest of my days!
> >

i thought armstrong made it... but then again i don't use english muffle
alot.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
2-2-98 New Pages Added: 22 New Stained Glass Links, 7 New Projects Added
and My Updated Shop Photo's
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From owner-glass Fri Apr 17 17:02:38 1998
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X-Path: p085.aone.net.au!allcrafts
From: Melanie Dunstan <allcrafts@p085.aone.net.au>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Do-it-yourself spherical lamp patterns
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 09:57:49 +0800
Message-ID: <1998Apr17.175749.0>
Organization: Allcrafts Goods & Services
Precedence: bulk

Further to the post by Charles Spitzer; Shrink wrap you can obtain at
Michaels, so I'm told; it is sold in packets. You can use sticky tape to
hold it together before shrinking; a hairdryer will do the job but it
will be slow - a heat gun is faster, however you need to be careful not
to blow 'holes' in the wrap. If the tape lifts in the heat, simply stick
it back down again. From my own experiments, the edges need to be folded
in and sealed with tape for the shrink-effect to work.

If you can't find any at Michaels, look for a large department store
that uses shrink wrapping as part of it's in-house packaging - they may
be able to sell (give? swap?) you some. The reason for this suggestion
is that shrinkwrap is generally sold in heavy, long rolls - and it isn't
particularly cheap. 

If you have a silver tongue, you may be able to talk the sellers of
shrinkwrap into giving you a length to 'test'.... go for a heavier gauge
of wrap where possible, as this will be more resistant to blowing holes
in it. HTH.

-- Good luck
Melanie Dunstan, in Perth, Australia
Allcrafts for Unusual Crafts  http://www.ozemail.com.au/~allcraft
Psst! Ask about joining CraftsPages perpetual Craft Fair! Pass It On!


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From owner-glass Fri Apr 17 17:38:39 1998
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X-Path: aol.com!MsSOPHIA
From: MsSOPHIA <MsSOPHIA@aol.com>
To: s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Zinc frame
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 19:46:15 EDT
Message-ID: <1998Apr17.234615.0>
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Hmmm...I, quite by accident found that "antique bronze" patina puts a nice
black on a zinc frame.  Be sure to use steel wool on zinc frame before
applying the patina.  Test a pc. see what you think...

msh
Paned Expressions Studios
http://members.aol.com/pestudio.html
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From owner-glass Fri Apr 17 18:39:10 1998
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X-Path: compuserve.com!GreerStudios
From: "Michael J. Greer" <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: "INTERNET:allcrafts@p085.aone.net.au" <allcrafts@p085.aone.net.au>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: English Muffle
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 20:44:15 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr17.164415.0>
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Hi Melanie!

Well, it's turned into an interesting
mystery!  I thought English Muffle
was manufactured in Australia, but
now I'm hearing that Wissmach has
the license to manufacture it.  It seems
the retail shops are well-stocked with
Wissmach and English Muffle, but the
wholesalers aren't getting either one!
What do you suppose that indicates?
At any rate, thanks for all the referrals -
I guess, if I really get desperate, I can
buy retail;-) !

Best regards,

Dani Greer
Greer Gallery & Studios
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From owner-glass Fri Apr 17 21:01:56 1998
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Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 23:13:06 -0400
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M. Savad wrote:

> fibers wrote:
> (snip)
> > Is it necessary to tin foiled pieces? This is my least favorite part of
> > stained glass. I always seem to burn my fingers or manage to drop the
> > piece if I try to use pliers. Maybe there is a better way to do this.
> > Any suggestions?
> > Nelda
> >
> ...(snip)..tinning: the only time to tin is after the project is soldered
> together.
> some places say you should tin everything before hand, but that wastes
> time, and you may get solder peaks etc. tinning is considered a last
> step. when you do go to tin, keep the piece over the table, at an angle
> (the angle like pouring water from a pitcher). and tin downward. top to
> bottom. keeping your fingers away from the heat...
>
> ---Mike Savad
>
> --
> Mike's Stained Glass
> http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
>

  I'm not sure Mike's answer was clear...don't bother tinning each piece. Snug
them up together, tack solder them (I find it generally useful to tack solder
all the outside pieces at the least), ten solder front and back.  That leaves
only the edges to be tinned.  I often hold suncatchers in a paper towel when I
tin, since the glass does tend to get warm.

Dorothy

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From owner-glass Fri Apr 17 21:31:27 1998
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From: Whispy Blu <WhispyBlu@aol.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: saddle bronco
Date: Sat, 18 Apr 1998 00:01:02 EDT
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Hi - I have been unable to find the e-mail/bungi posting for the person who
was searchng for the cowboy and bucking horse.  I have found 2 patterns
through Patterns Your Way.  

11-105 Saddle Bronco - Paula Zan, Mythling Studio, Hyndman, PA

25-661 Rodeo Cowboy - Aurora Publications, Cal Studio, San Jose, CA

Lu Ann <Whispy Blu@aol.com>
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From owner-glass Fri Apr 17 21:58:05 1998
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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In a message dated 4/17/98 11:01:11 PM US Eastern Standard Time, MAILER-
DAEMON@aol.com writes:

<< Hi - I have been unable to find the e-mail/bungi posting for the person who
 was searchng for the cowboy and bucking horse.  I have found 2 patterns
 through Patterns Your Way.  
 
 11-105 Saddle Bronco - Paula Zan, Mythling Studio, Hyndman, PA
 
 25-661 Rodeo Cowboy - Aurora Publications, Cal Studio, San Jose, CA
 
 Lu Ann <Whispy Blu@aol.com>
 
  >>


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Hi - I have been unable to find the e-mail/bungi posting for the person who
was searchng for the cowboy and bucking horse.  I have found 2 patterns
through Patterns Your Way.  

11-105 Saddle Bronco - Paula Zan, Mythling Studio, Hyndman, PA

25-661 Rodeo Cowboy - Aurora Publications, Cal Studio, San Jose, CA

Lu Ann <Whispy Blu@aol.com>


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From owner-glass Fri Apr 17 22:05:25 1998
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X-Path: softcom.net!mthaxton
From: Melissa Thaxton <mthaxton@softcom.net>
To: "Daniel M. German" <dmg@csg.uwaterloo.ca>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Do-it-yourself spherical lamp patterns
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 21:36:59 -0700
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References: <<199804161915.PAA00485@csgpppproxy2.uwaterloo.ca>>
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I was wondering if any of you have ever tried making a mold with paper
mashie, you could make a spherical one if you used a balloon.  just a thought

Melissa

Daniel M. German wrote:

> M Savad twistes the bytes to say:
>
> First of all, thanks to those who have and will answer to my
> message. As usual, this list is omniscient when it comes to glass.
>
>  M> first of all, i was wondering where you got the styrofoam from, i've
>  M> been looking around for large sizes like that....
>
> I got them from downtown Mexico City where I was in a fast trip last
> week. They had three large sizes for semi-spherical: 31cm, something
> around 50cm and 25cm and the largest spherical was 21cm, which I split
> in halves.
>
> --
> Daniel M. German                  "Compared to the real life,
>                                    even the best on-line "virtual spaces"
>     The Economist ->                are cartoons"
> http://csgwww.uwaterloo.ca/~dmg/home.html
> dmg@csg.uwaterloo.ca
>
>
> ----
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From owner-glass Fri Apr 17 23:07:26 1998
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Subject: Re: Do-it-yourself spherical lamp patterns
Date: Sat, 18 Apr 1998 01:19:28 -0400
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Melissa Thaxton twistes the bytes to say:


 Melissa> I was wondering if any of you have ever tried making a mold wit=
h paper
 Melissa> mashie, you could make a spherical one if you used a balloon.  =
just a thought

I certainly have, but not for stained glass purposes. Almost any
Mexican child gets to build a pi=F1ata of papier mache using
balloons. THe problem is that balloons are not spherical. A better
option will be a football (soccer ball), a basketball or something
alike.


 Melissa> Melissa




--
Daniel M. German
http://csgwww.uwaterloo.ca/~dmg/home.html
dmg@csg.uwaterloo.ca

=20
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From owner-glass Sat Apr 18 07:00:52 1998
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From: Rick Lasita <pebble@fuse.net>
To: fibers <fibers@wcnet.net>
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Date: Sat, 18 Apr 1998 09:50:07 -0400
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Organization: Window Art GLass Studio
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fibers wrote:
> 
>  
>  Finally just quite and left my
> glass shop. When I went back today the glass cut like butter. Does this
> happen to others or just me?
> 
 It's not just you <smile> There have been days when I wondered why I
ever took up this craft. Some days, not many, I'll just put the glass
cutter down and go play golf. Either one is better than a bad day in the
office though. 

Rick
http://home.fuse.net/crafts/index.html
updated 4-18-98
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From owner-glass Sat Apr 18 07:31:25 1998
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From: cpesonen@bcinternet.net (Cindy Pesonen)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Do-it-yourself spherical lamp patterns...paper mache
Date: Sat, 18 Apr 1998 06:56:27 -0700 (PDT)
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>
> 
Hi Melissa,
I think that's neat idea, I know of a lady glasser in Australia who is doing
that very thing. There could be endless ideas for shapes,... my friend is
building a half sphere from a bowl. Mainly because the molds are rather
expensive down there.

Does any one have any input on the subject that I may tell her? How many
layers would one need and would a nice layer of silcone smoothen it all out
and protect like in foam molds.
I guess horseshoe nails are out of the question, or would they be?
Would it hold up to the weight  of the glass or should you reinforce with
wire prior to?
Smiles, Cindy

Melissa has said:
>I was wondering if any of you have ever tried making a mold with paper
>mashie, you could make a spherical one if you used a balloon.  just a thought
>
>Melissa
>
>
>> 
>>
>> ----
>> 
>
>----
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>
>

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From owner-glass Sat Apr 18 10:31:31 1998
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From: fibers@wcnet.net (fibers)
To: "glass@ bungie.com" <glass@bungi.com>
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Subject: tinning
Date: Sat, 18 Apr 1998 12:01:15 -0500
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Thank you for taking the time to offer suggestions on  tinning.
Hence forth I will tin only when the edge might shop later.
It is nice to know that others have the same "bad glass day" as I. When
all else fails, I just quit and go dream over my new issue of Warner
Crivellaro color catalogue.
Thanks agsain,
Nelda

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X-Path: n-link.com!pkelly
From: pkelly <pkelly@n-link.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Subject: Bio # 12 (approx) Nadine Beth Schneider
Date: Sat, 18 Apr 1998 12:27:31 -0500
Message-ID: <1998Apr18.72731.0>
Precedence: bulk

Biography:  Nadine Beth Schneider


I always knew I wanted to be an artist of some sort.  I started taking
lessons when  I  was very young. I was born and lived in New York City ,
so I had lots of opportunities to learn all about the arts.  When I went
away to school, the University of Bridgeport, I was a fine arts major,
hoping to be a portrait artist   But I didn=92t last too long because my
father=92s business went belly up- and I returned to New York and got som=
e
free lance work as an illustrator, but a full time job as a copywriter.
I spent the next eight years as a writer (I wrote the first three books
on the Beatles in this country), mostly doing public relations and
entertainment stuff.

When Larry and I got married in 1969 he said to think of it as a
scholarship=97I wouldn=92t
have to write for money, I could concentrate on the great American
novel. So. . .I had two
children and have spent the last twenty-nine years writing. . .checks!

But I did use my =93scholarship=94 to study stained glass. Actually, Larr=
y
was the one who wanted to learn, but his schedule was impossible and so
I took the class. The first day we cut glass=97plain old window type=97I
cried. . .because the sound it made just scared me to death!
Of course, that was 1980, a very long time ago.  Since that time I have
been bitten by the bug=97or is it bugs because there are so many facets t=
o
glass. . .hot and cold.

When I decided to go into =93business=94 in 1985 I thought about an
appropriate name.
One of the definitions I found for folly was =93 an elaborate and an
extravagant, but nonetheless, unprofitable venture=94.  I thought that wa=
s
probably right for me since
when  I  figured out the cost of materials and all the time I spent on
my first projects
I was convinced I=92d never make any money.  That turned out not to be
true in the end
 because after a lot of  years and  satisfied customers the business did
pretty well.

And then we moved it five states away! And so now I am back to square
one, sort of,
and starting anew in Northern Virginia. Between moving houses and
studios, planning a wedding for my daughter and trying to do my own
stained glass windows for this new house
I really haven=92t had a lot of time to concentrate on the business part
of Nadine=92s Folly.  I do have the best of intentions, however, and you
know what they say about the road and =93good
intentions=94.


When I do get to work in my studio, I do flat panels as well as slumped
bouquets and I
make crystal tip magic wand pins and wrapped glass jewelry.  I also do
sandblasting
and wish I knew more about sandcarving.  I took Norm Dobbins class a few
years ago
but never had the time to just practice and play .  Maybe next year.

I really enjoy being a part of the bungi list.  I learn an awful lot
plus all those annoying
questions  that crop up in the middle of the night now have a way to get
answered.
If  I could only master my erratic computer now, I=92d be happy. I have a
new website I=92d love for you to visit=97www.nadinesfolly.com


----
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From owner-glass Sat Apr 18 11:27:48 1998
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From: pkelly <pkelly@n-link.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Bio# 13 Irene Mermelstein
Date: Sat, 18 Apr 1998 12:32:50 -0500
Message-ID: <1998Apr18.73250.0>
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Dear Patrick,

Hi,  My name is Irene Mermelstein.  I am a novice at this wonderful art
form.
I was given my stained glass equipment by my children and carried all of
the
stuff back with me from Connecticut to California at the end of
December.  You
have never seen such an hysterical sight.  While with the kids, my
daughter in
law gave me a three hour crash course in foiling.  She is new to this
herself.

I am 53 years old, happily married for 32 years to a Parole Agent named
Michael, the mother of two grown children and wonderful daughter in
law,  Ken,
Catherine (DIL) and Jodi.  We have two Grandchildren.  Allison will be 6
in
May and our newest little one, Kevin will be 4 months old.  He was born
just
before Thanksgiving.    We are a close knit family and are fortunate to
still
have 3 of our 4 parents living.  We try to get together as often as
possible.
It is hard to have our married children across the country from us and
if
anyone knows how to come into lots of money without doing any work, let
me
know.  I need it to pay for my airline tickets.

As a couple,  Michael and I are active in a wonderful organization
called
National Marriage Encounter.  We are both executive couple and team
members
for our local Sacramento area.  This couple enriching group has helped
many
many people renew their relationships.  It is a crash course in
communication
and available in most areas of the world.  We went on our first Marriage

Encounter weekend in 1975 and have been active participants for most of
these
last 23 years.

Individually,  I am a retired teacher.  I owned and operated the Bunch
Preschool in south Sacramento for 10 years.  They were fun filled times
in a
challenging profession.  I am glad to say though that I was able to
retire to
pursue other interests 4 years ago.  Shortly after my retirement I began

taking lessons in oil painting.  I am still at it and love the art very
much.
So far it is still amateur hour but my work is appreciated by those that

receive it and they actually have them framed and hung.  (I have
checked at
odd hours and times and the works I have created are actually still
there.
They haven't shipped them to the attic yet.)  I think that I could sell
my
work if I could stop doing requests for family members.

I started doing suncatchers in January and have progressed to 4 panels.
My
newest one was a pattern I actually created myself.  It is a 48 piece
panel of
Moses on the mountain receiving the tablets which contained the ten
commandments (needless ot say mine are blank.)  There are clouds, sun
with
loooonnnnnnnggggg rays (hard to cut but I managed) that reach the ground
and
of course Moses and the mountain.  I loved the whole process from start
to
finish.  I have now completed about 17 projects.  I do them in between
my
painting, work with Marriage encounter, playing on the computer, family
gatherings, house cleaning and general living.  I really love it and am
so
appreciative of my kids for getting me started.

Since  I have discovered Bungi, many of the questions that plagued me
have
been answered.  Your organization is wonderful and I have appreciated it
even
though I usually lurk inthe fringes.  Thanks for letting me share my
life with
all of you.

Sincerely,  Irene Mermelstein, (Irenemerm@aol.com)

----
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From owner-glass Sat Apr 18 13:59:11 1998
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X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: youghiogeny burn off rates
Date: Sat, 18 Apr 1998 16:37:30 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr18.123730.0>
References: <<m0yPrvz-000LiCC@why.az.stratus.com>>
Precedence: bulk

i was wondering what the highest temerature i could have with
irridescent? i tried a few experiments, which came out. but a few
other's that did'nt, all the irr. burned off. and i can't figure out
why, the color i was using was rootbeer (that's what it looks like
anyway).

i tried e-mailing them direct but the mail bounced... can whoever,
that's at the stained glass biz's site, check into this? this is the
second time it happened (with about a 1-2 month overlap).

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
2-2-98 New Pages Added: 22 New Stained Glass Links, 7 New Projects Added
and My Updated Shop Photo's
----
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From owner-glass Sat Apr 18 20:02:51 1998
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X-Path: aol.com!SSparks99
From: SSparks99 <SSparks99@aol.com>
To: bdhill@swbell.net, copypro@bellsouth.com, LADYCBY@aol.com, glass@bungi.com,
Content-Type: multipart/mixed;
Subject: A True Story FW: from TVA
Date: Sat, 18 Apr 1998 22:25:25 EDT
Message-ID: <1998Apr19.22525.0>
Precedence: bulk

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

--part0_892952725_boundary
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Hey, read this!  Pretty scarry.  Believe this story was on 60 minutes or 20/20
recently also.  

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From: "Sparks, John L." <jlsparks@tva.gov>
To: SSparks99@aol.com
Subject: FW: a true story 
Date: Sat, 18 Apr 1998 16:50:55 -0400
Return-Receipt-To: "Sparks, John L." <jlsparks@tva.gov>
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Remember that movie we watched?  If this is to be believed, it is not
just the stuff of fictiion.  

Scary huh? 

John Lee Sparks

> ----------
> From: =09Cooke, Albert E.
> Sent: =09Saturday, April 18, 1998 1:46 PM
> To: =09Driskell, Charles E.; Pratt, Clarence W. Jr.; Robinson, F.
> Suzette; Nilsen, Frederick J.; Hodges, Harold E.; Walls, Harold A.;
> 'Jace Sargent'; Turner, James Lin; Elmerick, John A.; Sparks, John L.;
> Whisenant, Johnny W.; 'Lee Tucker'; Heck, Paul S.; Gilbert, Philip L.;
> Beck, Ronald K.; Willard, Stephen C.; 'Travis Tucker'
> Subject: =09FW: a true story 
> 
> The story you are about to read is true.
> Albert E. Cooke
> 
> ----------
> From: =09Marston, Michael R.
> Sent: =09Saturday, April 18, 1998 7:43 AM
> To: =09Widick, Randy K.; Snoddy, Cathy C.; Cooke, Albert E.; Endsley,
> Brian N.; Condra, Charles; Kerr, Thomas W.; Rogers, Ron H.
> Cc: =09Snoddy, Cathy C.
> Subject: =09FW: a true story 
> 
> 
> Subject: =09FW:  a true story 
> 
>  Appeared in "DailyTexan" - the University of Texas
>  newspaper. Apparently it occurred during Fall Premier -- a UT
> tradition
>  that is a celebration of the end of midterms. 
>   
>  "Reason not to party anymore"
>   
>  This guy went out last Saturday night to a party.  He was having a
> good
>  time, had a couple of beers and some girl seemed to like him and
> invited
>  him to go to another party.  He quickly agreed and decided to go
> along
>  with her.
>   
>  She took him to a party in some apartment and they continued to
> drink,
>  and even got involved with some other drugs (unknown which). 
>   
>  The next thing he knew, he woke up completely naked in a bathtub
> filled
>  with ice.  He was still feeling the effects of the drugs, but looked
> around
>  to see he was alone. He looked down at his chest, which had "CALL
>  911 OR YOU WILL DIE" written on it in lipstick. He saw a phone was on
> a
>  stand next to the tub, so he picked it up and dialed. 
>   
>  He explained to the EMS operator what the situation was and that he
>  didn't know where he was, what he took, or why he was really calling.
>   
>  She advised him to get out of the tub. He did, and she asked him to 
>  look himself over in the mirror.
>   
>  He did, and appeared normal, so she told him to check his back. 
>  
>  He did, only to find two 9 inch slits on his lower back. She told him
> 
>  to get back in the tub immediately, and they sent a rescue team over.
> 
>   
>  Apparently, after being examined, he found out more of what had
> happened.
>   
>  His kidneys were stolen.
>   
>  They are worth 10,000 dollars each on the black market. (I was
> unaware
>  this even existed.) Several guesses are in order: The second party
> was
>  a sham, the people involved had to be at least medical students, and
> it
>  was not just recreational drugs he was given.
>  
>  Regardless, he is currently in the hospital on life support, awaiting
> a
>  spare kidney. The University of Texas in conjunction with Baylor
>  University Medical Center is conducting tissue research to match the
>  sophomore student with a donor.
>  
>  I wish to warn you about a new crime ring that is targeting business
>  travelers. This ring is well organized, well funded, has very skilled
>  personnel, and is currently in most major cities and recently very 
>  active in New Orleans.
>  
>  The crime begins when a business traveler goes to a lounge for a
> drink
>  at the end of the work day.  A person in the bar walks up as they sit
>  alone and offers to buy them a drink. The last thing the traveler
>  remembers until they wake up in a hotel room bath tub, their body
>  submerged to their neck in ice, is sipping that drink. There is a
> note 
>  taped to the wall instructing them not to move and to call 911.  A
> phone is 
>  on a small table next to the bathtub for them to call.
>  
>  The business traveler calls 911 who have become quite familiar with
> this
>  crime.  The business traveler is instructed by the 911 operator to
> very
>  slowly and carefully reach behind them and feel if there is a tube
>  protruding from their lower back.  The business traveler finds the
> tube
>  and answers, "Yes."  The 911 operator tells them to remain still,
> having
>  already sent paramedics to help. The operator knows that both of the
>  business traveler's kidneys have been harvested. This is not a scam
> or
>  out of a science fiction novel, it is real. It is documented and
> confirmable. 
>  If you travel or someone close to you travels, please be careful.
>  
>  Sadly, this is very true.  My husband is a Houston Firefighter/EMT
> and
>  they have received alerts regarding this crime ring.  It is to be
> taken very
>  seriously. The daughter of a friend of a fellow firefighter had this
> happen
>  to her. Skilled doctor's are performing these crimes! (which, by the
> way
>  have been highly noted in the Las Vegas area). Additionally, the
> military
>  has received alerts regarding this.
>  
>  This story blew me away.  I really want as many people to see this as
>  possible so please bounce this to whoever you can. 
>   
>  Michele Shafer - DML/Lab Administration
>  
>  Medical Manager Research & Development 
>  15151 N.W. 99th Street
>  Alachua, Florida  32615
>  Tel. (904) 462-2148
>  Fax (904) 462-1505
>  
>  Is this not one of the scariest things you have ever heard of? 
>  PLEASE forward this to everyone you know.
>  
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 


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From owner-glass Sat Apr 18 23:06:06 1998
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X-Path: juno.com!dodgestudio
From: dodgestudio@juno.com
To: GreerStudios@compuserve.com
Subject: Re: English Muffle
Date: Sun, 19 Apr 1998 01:23:13 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr18.212313.0>
References: <<199804181640_MC2-3A52-DA36@compuserve.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Dani,

No can't say that I know who was making the muffle before Wissmach, but
it's not the only Wissmach glass that I miss!

I don't know if you were into glass back then, but Wissmach went through
one of these crunches back in the early seventies.  Order times on a
crate of Wissmach went up to 18 months or so.  The place I was working at
at the time took to buying a little commodity known as Saigon glass, from
Vietnam.  Really nasty stuff to work with, and really ugly too.  Surface
was so hard that it ate up carbide cutters for breakfast.

I think that they have been in business so long just because they refuse
to increase production no matter what the demand.  They've seen it all
before.  Back then, just after the fall of Saigon Scott glass opened to
fill the void, but when demand dropped, they folded.  Just as they were
really learning to make nice glass too.

Gary Dodge              Dodge Studio Designs

http://www.dodgestudio.com

On Sat, 18 Apr 1998 16:40:11 -0400 "Michael J. Greer"
<GreerStudios@compuserve.com> writes:
>Hi Gary-
>
>It's the darndest thing about Wissmach-
>I keep hearing that everyone is due for
>big deliveries in a few weeks, but nothing
>ever shows up!  Not Wissmach, not Muffle!
>I think they're shipping everything they
>manufacture to China - though, Charles
>Warner tells me China has started
>manufacturing their own glass now!  I
>imagine that'll effect  Wissmach's business
>at some point.  Do you remember who
>made English Muffle before Wissmach got
>the license?  I think it was a firm in Australia-
>might have been called just English Muffle. =
>
>No one seems to remember.  It's a shame
>not to have it available - it certainly had its
>uses.
>
>Hope business is great!  Tax returns were
>due on April 15th here so now all hell breaks
>loose - we'll be pretty swamped until Christmas.
>
>Best regards,
>
>Dani Greer
>Greer Gallery & Studios
>

_____________________________________________________________________
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From owner-glass Sat Apr 18 23:18:02 1998
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X-Path: juno.com!dodgestudio
From: dodgestudio@juno.com
To: shad@mail2.nai.net
Subject: Re: (no subject)
Date: Sun, 19 Apr 1998 01:31:37 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr18.213137.0>
References: <<1998Apr16.62358.0>>>
Precedence: bulk

Hi guys,

Just thought I'd throw in my two cents.

First I agree with not tinning before soldering a regular solder bead,
and I do tin the edges around a suncatcher or unframed small panel, but
in my opinion, tinning should only be a first step.

A tinned edge has no structural strength and is only held on by the foil
adhesive.  If someone tosses the piece into hot soapy water and washes it
vigorously with a sponge, tinned foil will pull off.  After the tinning
you must build solder up on the piece so that the edge is encased in a
substantial mass of metal.

I never regard the adhesive as anything more than a temporary helper to
hold my foil in place before soldering.
Gary Dodge              Dodge Studio Designs

http://www.dodgestudio.com


>
>M. Savad wrote:
>
>> fibers wrote:
>> (snip)
>> > Is it necessary to tin foiled pieces? This is my least favorite 
>part of
>> > stained glass. I always seem to burn my fingers or manage to drop 
>the
>> > piece if I try to use pliers. Maybe there is a better way to do 
>this.
>> > Any suggestions?
>> > Nelda
>> >
>> ...(snip)..tinning: the only time to tin is after the project is 
>soldered
>> together.
>> some places say you should tin everything before hand, but that 
>wastes
>> time, and you may get solder peaks etc. tinning is considered a last
>> step. when you do go to tin, keep the piece over the table, at an 
>angle
>> (the angle like pouring water from a pitcher). and tin downward. top 
>to
>> bottom. keeping your fingers away from the heat...
>>
>> ---Mike Savad
>>
>> --
>> Mike's Stained Glass
>> http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
>>
>
>  I'm not sure Mike's answer was clear...don't bother tinning each 
>piece. Snug
>them up together, tack solder them (I find it generally useful to tack 
>solder
>all the outside pieces at the least), ten solder front and back.  That 
>leaves
>only the edges to be tinned.  I often hold suncatchers in a paper 
>towel when I
>tin, since the glass does tend to get warm.
>
>Dorothy

_____________________________________________________________________
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From owner-glass Sun Apr 19 07:35:15 1998
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X-Path: eatumup.com!byronw
From: byronw@eatumup.com (Byron Wells)
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Storm Doors
Date: Sun, 19 Apr 1998 09:25:13 -0500
Message-ID: <1998Apr19.42513.0>
Precedence: bulk

I would also be concerned about the door slamming from kids and wind...
Those hydraulic/air cylinders they use to slowly close the door do go
out...Would also be a lot more flex in that type of door...
Byron..
-----Original Message-----
From: Don McDonald <don@chescom.net>
To: glass@bungi.com <glass@bungi.com>
Date: Friday, April 17, 1998 1:23 AM
Subject: Storm Doors


>Has anyone ever made a panel for the top part of an aluminum storm
>door, the kind with the lower panel that raises?  I've had someone
>ask about this and am concerned that the aluminum frame would not
>support the weight of a panel.  Any ideas?
>
>Don M. McDonald
>----
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From owner-glass Sun Apr 19 13:12:33 1998
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X-Path: flinet.com!kenneil
From: Ken Neil <kenneil@flinet.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Clear glass with roses**HELP**
Date: Sun, 19 Apr 1998 15:44:39 -0500
Message-ID: <v03110700b16010a32a22@[208.14.24.149]>
Precedence: bulk

Hi everyone!!  I was at a great art and craft street fair this weekend and
there were several Stained glass vendors which all had just fantastic
stuff.  One of the vendors had made a panel using a clear glass that had
roses in the glass.  The roses were impressed in the glass and white, not
red or anything.  The glass was similar to the clear glass that you have
seen or at least I have seen in the catalogs that has daisies, leaves etc.
If anyone knows who makes it or where I can purchase it please let me know.
I would really like to make a panel using that glass.  By the way I did ask
the vendor where he got but he couldn't tell me, just that he bought it
wholesale and that it was a very thick glass and 1/4 copper foil just about
went around it.  Thanks for your Help!!
Brenda;-)

********************************************************************
		Been There........
				Done That!
Ken Neil
Jupiter, Florida
********************************************************************


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From owner-glass Sun Apr 19 13:42:04 1998
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From: "Tony Regan" <aareg@globalnet.co.uk>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: cutting wine bottles
Date: Sun, 19 Apr 1998 20:56:19 +0100
Message-ID: <1998Apr19.215619.0>
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BD6BD5.9A3F7CE0
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Good Day to all from the UK

Its a bizarre thought that you are all having beakfast while we watch =
the sun go over the yardarm, but the after effects of that, namely empty =
wine bottles, some of which are worth preserving as objects, I find =
exceedingly difficult to cut.

I am trying to cut off the tops, especially some nice blue Rhine =
bottles, but with little sucess.

How is it done? Someone in Bungiland must know!!

Regards

Tony & Barbara Regan
"Glass Act" Cornwall UK

------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BD6BD5.9A3F7CE0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.71.1712.3"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Good Day to all from the =
UK</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Its a bizarre thought that you are =
all having=20
beakfast while we watch the sun go over the yardarm, but the after =
effects of=20
that, namely empty wine bottles, some of which are worth preserving as =
objects,=20
I find exceedingly difficult to cut.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I am trying to cut off the tops, =
especially some=20
nice blue Rhine bottles, but with little sucess.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>How is it done? Someone in Bungiland =
must=20
know!!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Regards</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Tony &amp; Barbara =
Regan</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&quot;Glass Act&quot; Cornwall=20
UK</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BD6BD5.9A3F7CE0--

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From owner-glass Sun Apr 19 14:48:46 1998
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X-Path: water.waterw.com!artglass
From: artglass@water.waterw.com (pj friend)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Clear glass with roses**HELP**
Date: Sun, 19 Apr 1998 17:15:25 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <199804192115.RAA29918@water.waterw.com>
Precedence: bulk

Hi Ken,

Hope this helps...........

There is a new product on the market
called BrillaLux or BrillaMat.  It is etched decorated glass.  Hollander
carries it.

The glass with the roses is called rosas .  They also have natural, africa,
caribe, jardin, cosmics, fantasia, and triana.

Hollander can be reached at 800.221.6207.

And boohoo on the guy who couldn't (or is that wouldn't) tell you from where
the glass came.

my best,
pj




>Hi everyone!!  I was at a great art and craft street fair this weekend and
>there were several Stained glass vendors which all had just fantastic
>stuff.  One of the vendors had made a panel using a clear glass that had
>roses in the glass.  The roses were impressed in the glass and white, not
>red or anything.  The glass was similar to the clear glass that you have
>seen or at least I have seen in the catalogs that has daisies, leaves etc.
>If anyone knows who makes it or where I can purchase it please let me know.
>I would really like to make a panel using that glass.  By the way I did ask
>the vendor where he got but he couldn't tell me, just that he bought it
>wholesale and that it was a very thick glass and 1/4 copper foil just about
>went around it.  Thanks for your Help!!
>Brenda;-)
>
>********************************************************************
>		Been There........
>				Done That!
>Ken Neil
>Jupiter, Florida
>********************************************************************
>
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
>

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From owner-glass Sun Apr 19 18:22:01 1998
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: ....As a Teacher....?
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@pop3.nildram.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 02:04:53 +0000
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Hi Bunginians,

May I address the Teachers amongst you....

I would like to introduce Louise and Ian to you.
A young couple in their mid-twenties. Bright-eyed and bushy tailed.
They are overe here in UK on secondment from their employers in 
Australia. 
In the last 3 years they have "done" the UK north to south. In 
November this year they intend to return to Australia to get married 
(to each other),  and to make a life for themselves in Australia. 
Both of them very "earthy", Ian is a capenter by training;  Lousie is 
a multi-faceted talent. The feeling I get is that they will then kiss 
their current employers good-bye and go out there to "their own 
thing" They have DISCOVERED stained glass.
They are total beginners and I am their FIRST teacher. They have 
opted in a most curious - yet imaginative way - to work as a team..

Their enthusiasm, get-up-and-go attitude caught me right from the 
start. Between them they drew, designed and developed a quite 
complicated Celtic circular design as their very first "learning 
panel". The ONE panel to be done by BOTH of them. Against my better 
judgement, I agreed.
I would never (and HAVE never) agreed to an intricate Celtic design 
for a complete beginner before. Crazy!!
The course is 16 weeks. I told them from the start that they would 
not be able to complete the design in that time. They accepted that 
and are now signed up to join another course I run elsewhere. 
Over the Easter holiday they have beavered away at working on THEIR 
panel and they have already been knocking on my door twice to ask for 
more lead..
This week I have asked them to come to me WITH their panel for me to 
look at and check out as a condition of me giving them more lead. (Am 
I being autocratic??? Bolshie??) .I told them I would spend 2-3 hours 
with their panel, to check it out, to guide them, before next start 
of term....

They have not yet even learnt how to solder. Yet, they are hassling 
me for learning how to to do larger projects that need re-inforcement 
and rebars and other structural considerations.. I feel awful in 
having to rein them in, trying to persuade them "how about learning 
how to walk, before you learn how to run"...... The enthusiasm is 
TOTAL. But in a way, they are searching for a "quick-fix" way of 
spending 5 minutes in absorbing a 5-second "How-To"  idiot-proof 
instructions; assimilate 1000's of years knowledge into a 
cram-session of a few minutes.
There is no way I  can send them back to Australia as MYstudents , 
with MY name attached to their initial learning process.
Yet I don't want to hold them back......

I received an e-mail from them tonight.
As a work to take back to Australia with them (in addition to the 
Celtic panel) they have designed a 3m long crocodile ( how WIDE, they 
didn't say....). Could they bring the design to me for me to 
"peruse".....??
GULP.... at That size... I think IT might be quite keen to peruse 
ME.... !!
Assuming this Beast is in parts perhaps at LEAST 18 inches 
wide. we are talking about 12 sq.ft. as a SECOND ever leaded  
panel....
 I LOVE enthusiasm...., but am I humouring enthusiasm  just that bit 
too far????
Ultimately, I will need to hand these two souls over to stained glass 
teachers in Australia.....
What WILL they think of me....?
I have been trying to a considerable extent to teach these two 
live-wires that it would benefit them in the long run to know how to 
walk, before they start attempting to run....
Any "tactful" suggestions???
(I have already advise Ian & Louise about the practicalities of 
manhandline a 3 m long stained glass leaded Croc to and from 
Class...... They don't seem to care.
I have also asked them about cost of shipping, containers, 
likelyhood of breakage and so on... and so on. They seem 
undeterred........ (Employer pays freight... after all...)

 Aussies in Queensland and/or N.S.W.????   H.E.L.P.   ! ! !

Elisabeth
 (about  to go to bed dreaming about Crocs with sharp 
shiny teeth.... 3 meter long....)
NO Toby, he's absconded into a safe corner.....
----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
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From owner-glass Sun Apr 19 20:28:53 1998
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From: "Michael J. Greer" <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
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Subject: Copy of: ....As a Teacher....?
Date: Sun, 19 Apr 1998 23:00:49 -0400
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---------- Forwarded Message ----------

From:   Michael J. Greer, 105715,1412
TO:     "Toby", INTERNET:toby@northlights.co.uk
DATE:   4/19/98 8:54 PM

RE:     Copy of: ....As a Teacher....?

Dear, dear Elisabeth-

Not to worry!  My immediate response
to the situation is:  "Some people have
to learn the hard way."  Let them learn.
Michael adds that honesty is the best
policy - tell them what you think and
if they insist on doing things their own
way, well you can always remind them
of what the teacher said some time ago!
It's also been my experience in life that
the loudest firecrackers fizzle out the
fastest, as a rule.  And don't even get
me started on married couples working
on the same pieces together - give that
approach a few years to develop and,
oh my, you may really see some fire-
crackers!  As far as the FIRST teacher
thing - do you remember all your first
teachers?  I don't mine.  I remember
my first real art teacher, but not my first
music teacher.  I loved art, but I hated
the instrument my parents tried to make
me play.  If they stick with glass, they'll
love you forever; if not, they'll forget about
it and move on.  I would give them what
I give any other student, let them do
with it what they will, and then let it go.
How much will it matter a year from now?
Too pragmatic?  Well, that's me.  I take
most things in life with a grain of salt,
especially myself.  =


Best regards,

Dani Greer
Greer Gallery & Studios
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From owner-glass Sun Apr 19 21:56:25 1998
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Subject: Re: Copy of: ....As a Teacher....?
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 00:26:15 EDT
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Well, I agree with Dani.
    I can remember when I first started glass. I didn't care for the simple
little projects. I wanted to design windows fit for the White House !!! If I
were you, tell them what you feel. But I imagine they are strong willed and
will do whatever no matter what you say. Let them live and learn from their
mistakes. You, however will have a clear conscience if you tell them in the
beginning how you feel. Just be carefull not to discourage them. Excitement is
wonderful, but they must learn to crawl before they can walk !!

Susan
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From owner-glass Sun Apr 19 22:31:08 1998
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Subject: As a Teacher?
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 00:12:31 -0500
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Toby, et al

Ahhhh .... the exuberance of youth. As a teacher I enjoy students that
tax my patience and my brain. They seem to think that tried and true
methods are not correct. They will experience a brain cramp when the
mistakes they make cost them in some way. At this point they will think
..... so that's what my teacher was talking about. They always think
they know a faster, smarter way of doing things and sometimes ( damn it)
they do.

A case in point. Recently, one of my computer science students decided
that he knew a better program to do his projects. About 3/4th  of the
way through (9 weeks of work) he got into some problems. He then asked
my counsel, to which I replied " I don't teach that program in this
course ". However, if you use the required program I will be happy to
answer and all questions. He is now almost caught up with the rest of
the class after about 12 days of 13 hours worth of programing each day.
" Will he be a good computer programmer?"...  probably not,  because he
forgot the very basics and instead opted to use the so called short-cut.

I realize you think you have your  reputation as a SG instructor at
stake, but relax. Sell them the supplies they need, give them advice and
love. Cherish your time with them, it is coming to a close.

Remember:

In those days he was wiser than he is now - he used frequently to take
my advise.
                                                        - Winston
Churchill

Patrick
Roses and Rainbows

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From owner-glass Mon Apr 20 05:09:40 1998
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From: "studio@stainedglass.co.uk" <studio@stainedglass.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Re: ....As a Teacher....?
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 12:23:34 +0100
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At 02:04 20/04/98 +0000, EliSabeth told us of her dilemma concerning her
Australian students - I quote in part :
>.. I feel awful in 
>having to rein them in, trying to persuade them "how about learning 
>how to walk, before you learn how to run"...... The enthusiasm is 
>TOTAL. But in a way, they are searching for a "quick-fix" way of 
>spending 5 minutes in absorbing a 5-second "How-To"  idiot-proof 
>instructions; assimilate 1000's of years knowledge into a 
>cram-session of a few minutes.
>There is no way I  can send them back to Australia as MYstudents , 
>with MY name attached to their initial learning process.
>Yet I don't want to hold them back......<snip>
> I LOVE enthusiasm...., but am I humouring enthusiasm just that bit 
>too far????
<snip>
>Any "tactful" suggestions???

This is an awkward situation, which over the years Sam and I try to handle
by only running structured courses where the students know from the start
that they will follow a set course of projects, which allow for artistic
input and design work while keeping them on small projects where they go
through the whole process at least three times in their first ten sessions.
We try to get them to realise that by designing and making several small
panels in succession, into the design of which we introduce several special
problems which will eventually crop up in everyones path during the first
few projects anyway, they will be able not only to learn the principles of
each technique and skill but practise it as well. 
Our students have to accept from the outset that we will not expect them in
the lessons to be making large panels or anything requiring an understanding
of reinforcement before we have covered the principles governing
reinforcement and what is possible/necessary during the course - usually
around the 13th 2-hour session.
By this time most of them have made four or five windows no larger than a
couple of square foot in area and have improved their skills of cutting,
leading, soldering etc to a good standard before they tackle their front
door panel.  How many of us can look at the very first leaded panel we made
without cringing at either the accuracy of cutting glass or lead, or being
appalled at the lumpy soldering or gaps where we missed with the cementing
process?
We know that we do upset some potential students who leave our studio or put
the phone down to go elsewhere to learn the craft, but feel happier in
ensuring that each student on our courses has a good grounding in the craft.
Several local studios run more casual courses where (after one session being
shown the basic techniques) each student then designs and eventually makes
full sized leaded windows from the start.  One lady artist even manages to
keep her students returning to her studio at 8 pounds a session over several
years while they slowly under her supervision make several panels.  But we
have had a number of her ex-students join our advanced classes unable to cut
glass with any accuracy, and ignorant of the existence of any lead profile
other than 12mm (1/2 inch) flat and 6mm (1/4 inch) oval.
With our 20/24 week Adult Education classes we aim that by the end of the
course all students will have made several small and at least one large
project, learnt about repairing work and reinforcement, and be capable of
designing and making windows without further tuition - though many like the
comfort of being able to carry out future work under our wing at advanced
classes.
As you can see, we are much more autocratic than you, Elisabeth, and we
think you have done an admirable job with these students.  You have told
them that you dont think their way of going about learning this craft is the
right way, but you are trying your best to help them achieve a worthwhile
end result - even giving them extra out of class help and advice.
With such students determined to go racing ahead before they have practised
and improved their skills to a competent level, there is not much more you
could have done - and I am sure with your guidance as a basis they will end
up as skilled enthusiasts. Hopefully once back in Australia they will be
able to link up with a teacher who can help them build on what they remember
of what you have taught them.
So take the credit of having encouraged them to make progress into this
wonderful artistic world of stained glass that we all enjoy.
I will now step down off my soap box, apologise for boring all you bungians
with an excerpt of my philosophy of teaching, and get out my fireproof suit
in case I get flamed.
Elizabeth
Bournemouth Stained Glass
http://www.stainedglass.co.uk

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From owner-glass Mon Apr 20 06:06:24 1998
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From: "Laurean E. Clover" <vlclover@rconnect.com>
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Subject: Re: As a Teacher?
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 07:33:04 -0700
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I agree with everyones advice and comments on your students.

You always have the option of wishing them on your worst enemy!
<g>.

Laurean
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From owner-glass Mon Apr 20 06:23:01 1998
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From: Barbara <bjs10@cornell.edu>
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Subject: Re: cutting wine bottles
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 08:30:25 -0400
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References: <<1998Apr19.215619.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Hello Tony .....
	There are cutters that are especially designed to cut wine bottles.  If
you cannot find them through your glass supply shop, try a craft store or
supplier... perhaps a industrial glass shop.  
	The tool looks like a coller with pins and clamps for sizing and then you
score around the bottle with an attached cutting wheel...
	Cuts bottles in a wink.........
Barbara.........


At 08:56 PM 4/19/98 +0100, Tony Regan wrote:
>This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
>
>------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BD6BD5.9A3F7CE0
>Content-Type: text/plain;
>	charset="iso-8859-1"
>Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
>
>Good Day to all from the UK
>
>Its a bizarre thought that you are all having beakfast while we watch =
>the sun go over the yardarm, but the after effects of that, namely empty =
>wine bottles, some of which are worth preserving as objects, I find =
>exceedingly difficult to cut.
>
>I am trying to cut off the tops, especially some nice blue Rhine =
>bottles, but with little sucess.
>
>How is it done? Someone in Bungiland must know!!
>
>Regards
>
>Tony & Barbara Regan
>"Glass Act" Cornwall UK
>
>------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BD6BD5.9A3F7CE0
>Content-Type: text/html;
>	charset="iso-8859-1"
>Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
>
><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
><HTML>
><HEAD>
>
><META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
>http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
><META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.71.1712.3"' name=3DGENERATOR>
></HEAD>
><BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
><DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Good Day to all from the =
>UK</FONT></DIV>
><DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
><DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Its a bizarre thought that you are =
>all having=20
>beakfast while we watch the sun go over the yardarm, but the after =
>effects of=20
>that, namely empty wine bottles, some of which are worth preserving as =
>objects,=20
>I find exceedingly difficult to cut.</FONT></DIV>
><DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
><DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I am trying to cut off the tops, =
>especially some=20
>nice blue Rhine bottles, but with little sucess.</FONT></DIV>
><DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
><DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>How is it done? Someone in Bungiland =
>must=20

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From owner-glass Mon Apr 20 07:48:54 1998
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X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: As a Teacher?
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 10:05:54 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr20.6554.0>
References: <<1998Apr19.191231.0>>
Precedence: bulk

pkelly wrote:
> 
> Toby, et al
> 
> Ahhhh .... the exuberance of youth. As a teacher I enjoy students that
> tax my patience and my brain. They seem to think that tried and true
> methods are not correct. They will experience a brain cramp when the
> mistakes they make cost them in some way. At this point they will think
> ..... so that's what my teacher was talking about. They always think
> they know a faster, smarter way of doing things and sometimes ( damn it)
> they do.
> 
> A case in point. Recently, one of my computer science students decided
> that he knew a better program to do his projects. About 3/4th  of the
> way through (9 weeks of work) he got into some problems. He then asked
> my counsel, to which I replied " I don't teach that program in this
> course ". However, if you use the required program I will be happy to
> answer and all questions. He is now almost caught up with the rest of
> the class after about 12 days of 13 hours worth of programing each day.
> " Will he be a good computer programmer?"...  probably not,  because he
> forgot the very basics and instead opted to use the so called short-cut.
> 
> I realize you think you have your  reputation as a SG instructor at
> stake, but relax. Sell them the supplies they need, give them advice and
> love. Cherish your time with them, it is coming to a close.
> 
> Remember:
> 
> In those days he was wiser than he is now - he used frequently to take
> my advise.
>                                                         - Winston
> Churchill
> 
> Patrick
> Roses and Rainbows

there's also a real good side to having a naturally advanced student,
you could take pictures of their work, and show them to other students,
saying your the one who taught them that....

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
2-2-98 New Pages Added: 22 New Stained Glass Links, 7 New Projects Added
and My Updated Shop Photo's
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From owner-glass Mon Apr 20 09:56:15 1998
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X-Path: p085.aone.net.au!allcrafts
From: Melanie Dunstan <allcrafts@p085.aone.net.au>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Cutting Wine Bottles
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 23:21:42 +0800
Message-ID: <1998Apr21.72142.0>
Organization: Allcrafts Goods & Services
Precedence: bulk

Gidday Y'all - I often get requests for a wine bottle cutter here in Oz
- the only one I've ever seen, both in the flesh and advertised - was in
UK! I saw it at Woburn craft fair I believe (April and October) and I've
seen it advertised in (I think) the craftsman magazine also in Popular
Crafts - or a similar type of magazine. It's usually a black and white
ad, single column but long-ish say up to half a page, the pic is
actually a line drawing. Sorry I can't remember more - going back five
years now. Hope you find one!
-- Catcha
Melanie Dunstan, in Perth, Australia
Allcrafts for Unusual Crafts  http://www.ozemail.com.au/~allcraft
Psst! Ask about joining CraftsPages perpetual Craft Fair! Pass It On!


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From owner-glass Mon Apr 20 10:19:28 1998
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From: DMR74 <DMR74@aol.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: ....As a Teacher....?
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 12:38:17 EDT
Message-ID: <1998Apr20.163817.0>
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I guess I am a little puzzled by all this are you a teacher of stained glass
or running an apprenticeship?  I don't mean to be strong on this point but
they want to learn and get as much from you in a short amount of time.  ie
they are trying to move forward rapidly and you don't want them to, yes they
have not yet perfected their talents but they have time and years to do that.
They sound refreshing to me, not afraid to jump in and try, so what if it
doesn't work out right they are not concerned why should you be.  I can't
believe that you would think of not selling them supplies just to keep them
from moving on.  They can go elsewhere to buy if you refuse to sell to them.
And think of it this way I'm sure you have had a few students over the years
that NEVER mastered the art but can still say you were their teacher what is
the difference in that.  And after 16 weeks and you still have not showed them
how to solder??   I guess cause I was self taught mostly and had to learn from
my mistakes and a lot of mistakes of others by asking questions I don't see
why you should be so concerned.  Again they are not apprentices they are
students, let them grow at their own pace and maybe you couldn't work with
someone on a panel but others can,  I understand many of the old works have
been done by quite a few people (someone on bungi explained that about a
churches panels in mexico each doing a part that they were good at)
 Another thought just look at the celtic panel they drew, the way you explain
it it is very good so maybe they are able to learn more rapidly than you are
allowing them to.
Ok I'm done just my point of view
deb
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From owner-glass Mon Apr 20 11:21:42 1998
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X-Path: memach.com!lcbell
From: Linda Campbell <lcbell@memach.com>
To: "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: RE: Cutting Wine Bottles
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 13:39:36 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr20.93936.0>
Precedence: bulk

=09
I paid $30 for a bottle cutter from Distlefink. It was a piece of =
plastic trash. The plastic is not sturdy enough to push against to score =
the glass. You need 4 hands to operate it and all of the tightening =
screws were plastic and broke off. Distlefink no longer makes them.=20

I have not seen the one made by Armour so I cannot comment. It can be =
found via a search of the web.

My solution has been to make my own jig. Just a tow sided wooden affair =
that cradles the bottle laying on it's side. That way I can rotate the =
bottle while holding my Fletcher cutter against the side to get a good =
score. The trick I have  found in getting a decent break at the score is =
to not be too anxious and tap gently from the inside of the bottle until =
the score is pretty much cracked before I twist the two halves apart.=20

Caution is advised.=20

LInda Campbell
----------
From: 	Melanie Dunstan[SMTP:allcrafts@p085.aone.net.au]
Sent: 	Monday, April 20, 1998 11:21 AM
To: 	glass@bungi.com
Subject: 	Re: Cutting Wine Bottles

Gidday Y'all - I often get requests for a wine bottle cutter here in Oz
- the only one I've ever seen, both in the flesh and advertised - was in
UK! I saw it at Woburn craft fair I believe (April and October) and I've
seen it advertised in (I think) the craftsman magazine also in Popular
Crafts - or a similar type of magazine. It's usually a black and white
ad, single column but long-ish say up to half a page, the pic is
actually a line drawing. Sorry I can't remember more - going back five
years now. Hope you find one!
-- Catcha
Melanie Dunstan, in Perth, Australia
Allcrafts for Unusual Crafts  http://www.ozemail.com.au/~allcraft
Psst! Ask about joining CraftsPages perpetual Craft Fair! Pass It On!


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From owner-glass Mon Apr 20 11:55:32 1998
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From: Margaret41 <Margaret41@aol.com>
To: WhispyBlu@aol.com, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: saddle bronco
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 13:35:50 EDT
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Precedence: bulk

In a message dated 98-04-18 00:32:30 EDT, WhispyBlu@aol.com writes:

<< through Patterns Your Way.  
 
 11-105 Saddle Bronco - Paula Zan, Mythling Studio, Hyndman, PA
 
 25-661 Rodeo Cowboy - Aurora Publications, Cal Studio, San Jose, CA
 
 Lu Ann <Whispy Blu@aol.com> >>

Hi - is Patterns Your Way a service?....a book?....on-line....? Can someone
clarify. Thanks.             Margaret
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From owner-glass Mon Apr 20 14:32:13 1998
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From: "Daniel M. German" <dmg@csg.uwaterloo.ca>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain;  charset=iso-8859-1
Subject: as a teacher... let them know
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 16:47:37 -0400
Message-ID: <199804202047.QAA01339@csgpppproxy2.uwaterloo.ca>
Precedence: bulk


Hi Elisabeth,

Don't be cruel with them. And don't let me think that you're more
worried about your reputation than about helping people
learn. Teachers suppose to be guides.

Even if they make mistakes --and they know they can make them, and
they'll very likely make them-- the experience will be worthwhile for
them. Remember Gauss? He has been arguably the smartest mathematician
in our World. When he was asked to count from 1 to 100 --at age 5-- he
did not do it in the classical way: we develop and equation that took
him seconds to do the calculation. Imagine a teacher that would have
said: "no, no no... it's wrong, go back and count one by
one...". Might he be frustrated and his skills perished? Who knows.  I
am not saying that your students are the next Tiffanys. Some people
are gifted, others are just overachievers, others tend to bend the
rules.

They buy their own material, they put their own time; don't hold them
back, you have no right to do it --IMHO. If you think they can make
mistakes, be their guide, offer information, suggest books. Not
everybody has to move at the same pace, or at the one you think it is
the best.


And with regard to Patrick's comment, I know people that they can do
it: they can learn a new language and at the same time go through
difficult computer science courses _without_ any help from the
instructor. Those are the great minds that are and will be in the
frontline of the armies of programmers of today's great software
companies.


Of course, all these is IMHO.


dmg



--
Daniel M. German                  "I see no good reason why the
                                   views given in this volume
                                   should shock the religious
   Charles Darwin ->               feelings of anyone."
http://csgwww.uwaterloo.ca/~dmg/home.html
dmg@csg.uwaterloo.ca

 

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From owner-glass Mon Apr 20 14:59:02 1998
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From: "Steve Matthies" <SteveM@tillamook.k12.or.us>
To: glass@bungi.com, aareg@globalnet.co.uk
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: cutting wine bottles
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 13:14:53 -0700
Message-ID: <s53b4a69.050@tillamook.k12.or.us>
Precedence: bulk

The last delphi sales flyer I recieved a week or so ago had a bottle =
cutter in it, one of their new items..somewhere around $20.00 wholesale =
and if I remember correctly after scoring, the directions were to heat the =
score then ice it. It' the first one Ive seen commercially maybe it is on =
their web site.

>>> "Tony Regan" <aareg@globalnet.co.uk> 04/19 12:56 PM >>>
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=3D_NextPart_000_0004_01BD6BD5.9A3F7CE0
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset=3D"iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Good Day to all from the UK

Its a bizarre thought that you are all having beakfast while we watch =3D
the sun go over the yardarm, but the after effects of that, namely empty =
=3D
wine bottles, some of which are worth preserving as objects, I find =3D
exceedingly difficult to cut.

I am trying to cut off the tops, especially some nice blue Rhine =3D
bottles, but with little sucess.

How is it done? Someone in Bungiland must know!!

Regards

Tony & Barbara Regan
"Glass Act" Cornwall UK

------=3D_NextPart_000_0004_01BD6BD5.9A3F7CE0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset=3D"iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3D3Dtext/html;charset=3D3Diso-8859-1 =3D
http-equiv=3D3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D3D'"MSHTML 4.71.1712.3"' name=3D3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D3D#000000 size=3D3D2>Good Day to all from the =3D
UK</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D3D#000000 size=3D3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D3D#000000 size=3D3D2>Its a bizarre thought that you are =
=3D
all having=3D20
beakfast while we watch the sun go over the yardarm, but the after =3D
effects of=3D20
that, namely empty wine bottles, some of which are worth preserving as =3D
objects,=3D20
I find exceedingly difficult to cut.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D3D#000000 size=3D3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D3D#000000 size=3D3D2>I am trying to cut off the tops, =
=3D
especially some=3D20
nice blue Rhine bottles, but with little sucess.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D3D#000000 size=3D3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D3D#000000 size=3D3D2>How is it done? Someone in =
Bungiland =3D
must=3D20
know!!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D3D#000000 size=3D3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D3D#000000 size=3D3D2>Regards</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D3D#000000 size=3D3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D3D#000000 size=3D3D2>Tony &amp; Barbara =3D
Regan</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D3D#000000 size=3D3D2>&quot;Glass Act&quot; Cornwall=3D20=

UK</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=3D_NextPart_000_0004_01BD6BD5.9A3F7CE0--

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From owner-glass Mon Apr 20 16:28:21 1998
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X-Path: az.stratus.com!charlie
From: Charles Spitzer <charlie@az.stratus.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: Re: cutting wine bottles
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 98 15:09:40 -0700
Message-ID: <m0yROkw-000LiCC@why.az.stratus.com>
References: <<s53b4a69.050@tillamook.k12.or.us>>
Organization: Customer Assistance Center, Stratus Computer, Inc.
Precedence: bulk

You wrote:
> The last delphi sales flyer I recieved a week or so ago had a bottle =
> cutter in it, one of their new items..somewhere around $20.00 wholesale =
> and if I remember correctly after scoring, the directions were to heat the =
> score then ice it. It' the first one Ive seen commercially maybe it is on =
> their web site.
word on rec.crafts.glass this doesn't work very well.

2 ways that i know of to do this easily. they both work on the same principle:

a) fill with cold water. tie a string around it at the place you want it to  
break. soak string with lighter fluid. light. stand back.

b) fill with cold water. wrap bottle with nichrome wire. hook up to a dc  
power generator. stand back quickly.

disclaimer: do this at your own risk, under supervision of adults, yada yada yada...

---
Charles Spitzer
charlie@az.stratus.com
Phoenix, AZ
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From owner-glass Mon Apr 20 16:58:04 1998
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X-Path: az.stratus.com!charlie
From: Charles Spitzer <charlie@az.stratus.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: Re: teaching
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 98 15:14:33 -0700
Message-ID: <m0yROpg-000LiCC@why.az.stratus.com>
References: <<199804202047.QAA01339@csgpppproxy2.uwaterloo.ca>>
Organization: Customer Assistance Center, Stratus Computer, Inc.
Precedence: bulk

i liken your problem to raising kids. sometimes you have to let them do it  
the hard way for them to learn what they can and cannot do, protecting them  
from actual harm along the way.

sometimes they surprise us, sometimes they fail and sometimes they shine. one  
often learns more from failures than successes.

charlie
---
Charles Spitzer
charlie@az.stratus.com
Phoenix, AZ
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From owner-glass Mon Apr 20 18:04:15 1998
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From: Family Account <shad@mail2.nai.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: tinning
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 20:11:39 -0400
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References: <<1998Apr18.7115.0>>
Precedence: bulk



fibers wrote:

> T<snip>
> It is nice to know that others have the same "bad glass day" as I. When
> all else fails, I just quit and go dream over my new issue of Warner
> Crivellaro color catalogue.
> Thanks agsain,
> Nelda

  Actually, I was having one of those days last night, and have the nicks
on my fingers to prove it.  I had one piece left to cut on a pretty fan
lamp and some of the glass was difficult.  Five tries to get that one
piece...and did it with a few inches of glass to spare.  I did leave it for
a couple of hours, but I wanted to get it foiled while watching X-Files.

just got a new table saw and have lots of ideas...of course, there's lots
of learning to do, but my husband is a contractor's son....

Dorothy K

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To: Toby <toby@northlights.co.uk>
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Subject: Re: ....As a Teacher....?
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 19:40:43 -0400
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Hi Elisabeth,

Wow-just do the best you can, a lot of us are self-taught, and learn by
just getting the stuff and 'doing'  after a few mistakes, a video or
couple of books, usually work it out.  In the very brief SG course I
took, 10 weeks, once a week, I missed two classes, I did two panels
(copper foil) and 2- 3D glass boxes while everyone else was laboring
away still trying to cut glass.  I am about to 'go get a hot head torch'
and teach my self 'hot glass' lampworking this summer.  So not all are
suited to the 'usual' way off learning.  BTW, glass cutting was never my
problem, but I don't do double s-curves by hand either.  This couple
will (I predict, IMHO) surprise you very much, if they stick with
'glass' .  I basically taught myself jewelry work too,
and casting gold and silver, so torch working is not that foreign to
me.  Used to use oxyacetylene and a centrifugal caster.  Not hard if you
are careful, and observe the basic safety precautions.

Good luck and don't let the crocodile out.  :-)

Lee Boe
Rain-Boe's Creations

Toby wrote:
> 
> Hi Bunginians,
> 
> May I address the Teachers amongst you....
> 
> I would like to introduce Louise and Ian to you.
> A young couple in their mid-twenties. Bright-eyed and bushy tailed.
> They are overe here in UK on secondment from their employers in
> Australia.
> In the last 3 years they have "done" the UK north to south. In
> November this year they intend to return to Australia to get married
> (to each other),  and to make a life for themselves in Australia.
> Both of them very "earthy", Ian is a capenter by training;  Lousie is
> a multi-faceted talent. The feeling I get is that they will then kiss
> their current employers good-bye and go out there to "their own
> thing" They have DISCOVERED stained glass.
> They are total beginners and I am their FIRST teacher. They have
> opted in a most curious - yet imaginative way - to work as a team..
> 
> Their enthusiasm, get-up-and-go attitude caught me right from the
> start. Between them they drew, designed and developed a quite
> complicated Celtic circular design as their very first "learning
> panel". The ONE panel to be done by BOTH of them. Against my better
> judgement, I agreed.
> I would never (and HAVE never) agreed to an intricate Celtic design
> for a complete beginner before. Crazy!!
> The course is 16 weeks. I told them from the start that they would
> not be able to complete the design in that time. They accepted that
> and are now signed up to join another course I run elsewhere.
> Over the Easter holiday they have beavered away at working on THEIR
> panel and they have already been knocking on my door twice to ask for
> more lead..
> This week I have asked them to come to me WITH their panel for me to
> look at and check out as a condition of me giving them more lead. (Am
> I being autocratic??? Bolshie??) .I told them I would spend 2-3 hours
> with their panel, to check it out, to guide them, before next start
> of term....
> 
> They have not yet even learnt how to solder. Yet, they are hassling
> me for learning how to to do larger projects that need re-inforcement
> and rebars and other structural considerations.. I feel awful in
> having to rein them in, trying to persuade them "how about learning
> how to walk, before you learn how to run"...... The enthusiasm is
> TOTAL. But in a way, they are searching for a "quick-fix" way of
> spending 5 minutes in absorbing a 5-second "How-To"  idiot-proof
> instructions; assimilate 1000's of years knowledge into a
> cram-session of a few minutes.
> There is no way I  can send them back to Australia as MYstudents ,
> with MY name attached to their initial learning process.
> Yet I don't want to hold them back......
> 
> I received an e-mail from them tonight.
> As a work to take back to Australia with them (in addition to the
> Celtic panel) they have designed a 3m long crocodile ( how WIDE, they
> didn't say....). Could they bring the design to me for me to
> "peruse".....??
> GULP.... at That size... I think IT might be quite keen to peruse
> ME.... !!
> Assuming this Beast is in parts perhaps at LEAST 18 inches
> wide. we are talking about 12 sq.ft. as a SECOND ever leaded
> panel....
>  I LOVE enthusiasm...., but am I humouring enthusiasm  just that bit
> too far????
> Ultimately, I will need to hand these two souls over to stained glass
> teachers in Australia.....
> What WILL they think of me....?
> I have been trying to a considerable extent to teach these two
> live-wires that it would benefit them in the long run to know how to
> walk, before they start attempting to run....
> Any "tactful" suggestions???
> (I have already advise Ian & Louise about the practicalities of
> manhandline a 3 m long stained glass leaded Croc to and from
> Class...... They don't seem to care.
> I have also asked them about cost of shipping, containers,
> likelyhood of breakage and so on... and so on. They seem
> undeterred........ (Employer pays freight... after all...)
> 
>  Aussies in Queensland and/or N.S.W.????   H.E.L.P.   ! ! !
> 
> Elisabeth
>  (about  to go to bed dreaming about Crocs with sharp
> shiny teeth.... 3 meter long....)
> NO Toby, he's absconded into a safe corner.....
> ----
> As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
> North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
> http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm
> ----
> ----
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From owner-glass Mon Apr 20 18:57:22 1998
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
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Subject: ...As a Teacher... Conclusion
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Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 01:32:41 +0000
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Thanks Everybody,

It's been a very interesting sound-board (... and there may perhaps 
be more reactions to arrive...)

On the whole, EliZabeth in Bournemouth  appears to know what I am 
doing and where I "am at".

I run very "structured" courses, with a specific end-goal at the end. 
There IS the opportunity for further progression in subsequent 
"Improvers" and "Advanced" courses. As I remember having already said 
in Bungi Group before, I have been teaching for 10 years + and  have 
trained up fully blown professionals, as well as sent 3 people to 
gain university qualifications. Universities in UK frequently ask for 
my opinions about an applicant. For my students who so wish, they 
can apply to acquire a nationally recognized qualification, for which 
they have to satisfy certain criteria. developments and progression, 
which all have to be assessed, graded and judged.  I do therefore 
have a reputation as a teacher beyond the boundaries of  the County 
where I live......

My "Beginners course" is of 16 duration, at the end of which the 
student will have produced a leaded panel ( more likely than not of a 
prescribed design) of approx. 12 x 12 inches..
The second panel I will require them to make a far greater input from 
themselves as regards design and the panel can be somewhat larger (up 
to about 18 x 18 inches - roughly) The third panel must be wholly 
their own design and will then incorporate a "make-to-fit" element.
After which they (as a rule) are ready to want to attempt 3-objects, 
lamps, clocks, copper-foil.

I am well aware that in USA the tendency is to start with copper-foil 
FIRST. It is the reverse in UK. People's taste and inclinations in UK 
are a little bit more "robust" than perhaps in USA.

This is setting the scene...
EliZabeth in Bournemouth (also involved in teaching) knows the 
"scene" and hence comments very valuable .

The comments right across the board from teacher, to learner to 
anyone who has an opinion has been very interesting Thank you all for 
the input.
It's not the first time I have given a relatively long "noose" to a 
student. I  always explain both verbally and in the written course 
curriculum extactly what the end-goal is to be. But you always have 
people who push against boundaries and against their own limitations 
as well. So it's not a question of dampening someone's enthusiasm, 
but knowing where to rein them in for the sake of them achieveing a 
result.
Daniel; I do hope you don't really think I am "cruel". I have invited 
these 2 students to come to my home with their panel, off-term, free 
of charge in MY time, to give of MY time several hours of help, 
guidance and possible correction to keep their project alive and 
feasible. They have already come to me twice already and I have 
already dedicated several hours of my own, away from my own work to 
help them.

 The materials my students use are to a considerable extent 
subsidized by myself; and only when they get to making their 3rd 
panel do they pay for all their materials themselves (often a rude 
awakening in UK...).
Deb,.... you are quite right; these 2 students have not yet learnt 
soldering. The reason for that is that they have got embroiled in 
cutting several hundred peices of glass for a knotted Celtic circular 
design measuring approx. 2. feet in diameter - as total beginners. 
Some of the curves are really quite hairy. The tools they choose to 
work with are less than ideal... despite my offer of getting them at 
least a grozier plier, they chose to work with a rather 
strange selection of "implements".
Whereas the other 20 students or so in the same class
have taken my guide-lines and are well on line in starting to solder 
their own beginner's panels of approx. 12 x 12 inches. Much more 
simple in design - yes sure, but structured to be "achievable" in the 
time-limitation of the Beginner's Course.
Ian and Louise have  rather a lot of intricate leading to complete 
before they can even think to start soldering. All of it has to be 
mitred; the design calls for 3 different thickness of lead (not 
something I would normally introduce a beginner to...).
You see Deb, as a teacher, you tread  a fine line very often.
A few years ago I had a lady on my beginners course, who already 
"knew it all". SAhe had x number of arts degrees and there was 
nothing anyone could teach her about ART - never mind CRAFTS. 
She rejected all my recommendations, suggestions, guide-lines of a 
First Panel. She had made her mind up to create and produce  a
medevial jestor's design for her son's front door. She created 
crate-fuls of scrap glass, demanded special treatment, special glass 
galore. All ended up in the trashcan. She choose to cut her lead with 
a pair of kitchen scissors, rejecting my offer of lending her more 
suitable tools. She arrived with a 500W soldering iron inherited from 
her grand-father (she was in her 60's herself..), which had seen 
better days, was rusted up. She rejected my offer of helping her out 
with a more managagable iron. In the end, towards the end of the 
course, all the other students became involved in the race of trying 
to plug up the holes in her panel, rescuing her glass, minimizing the 
ever-growing crates of her abandoned broken glass. She protested 
loudly that her panel certainly did not contain that amount of 
material to warrant the flat fee for materials I charged her - and 
everybody else. She left my course with comments that are 
unprintable.
You know as well as I do, that "muck sticks".
But she left a bitter taste both for me and for the other students.
She was an extreme... yes I know..... But there can be degrees of the 
same syndrome.
...And I was addressing myself to the Teachers amongst us. I am very 
well aware what a Learner wants.... I am still a Learner myself.... 
even after 25 years.... As I said before, one treads a fine line....  
Deb...I think you missed the point somewhere. I hope you don't mind 
me saying that.

My own very first panel has miraculously survived after all these 
years. I bring it to my Beginners to show them. I don't foist my own 
work on them that I do today. I show them where I myself came from.
Mike Savad has a good point, that I have already followed up. My own 
portfolio contains a special section - photographs of the work of my 
own students. I have pages and pages of photographs of my students' 
work. That is something I would prefer to show my Beginners 
initially. I also invite my "Imps" ( = Improvers) and "ADS" (Advanced 
Students) to drop in during the Beginners Course to show their work
Both my "imps" and "Ads" really enjoy this and they always come.
It gives the Beginners a chance to have a quiet "natter" about The 
Old Ratbag" (=ME) and my Imps and Ads feel valued and flattered by 
the Ohhs and Ahhs of their work.
 2-3-4 times a year we all join forces and have a slap-up meal and a 
good "booze-up".
Dani... yeh... I know what you say about married couples working on 
the same piece... I am stuck with it now.. They are - luckily - very 
good-natured kids - sooo - I just make sure that neither of them 
monopolizes any one particular aspect. They BOTH do their share...
MY  F I R S T stained glass teacher? Unfortunately - I   D O  
remember, with a vengance!! MY first teacher is the very reason I 
make absolutely sure I do not practice the same techniques!!!!

MELANIE in "Aussie-Land" Hey there!!  G'day!!! You just posted 
something about something totally different!
A: Hope you haven't forgotten about my "hard-copy"....
B: How about helping me out with some rather enthusiastic, live-wire 
Australian kids coming YOUR way in 6 months time!!
I am looking for a tender, loving teacher onto whom I  can pass 
2 Australian "chickens"  that  I am currently teaching. They 
have ambitions miles beyond their knowledge and experience.
They have not even yet completed their first Learner's panel.... they 
want to design and create a 3 meter long crocodile as a leaded panel 
for their house in Australia......
They have got numerous other projects too.....
I would so much like to be able to pass them on into "good hands"....

It was very helpful and useful to bounce this around. My conclusion 
is that I am probably too soft within the perimeter & restrictions of 
a quite structured scenario. I allow my own empathy and emotions 
responding to enthusiasm too much room......
Spercial thanks to EliZabeth & Sam  in Bournemouth...
Thank you all.
Elisabeth 'n Toby in UK


----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
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From owner-glass Mon Apr 20 19:06:50 1998
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To: Charles Spitzer <charlie@az.stratus.com>
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Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 21:13:19 -0400
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PS,


One the teaching thing-just reminded of "Robert Oddy's" work, that we
all oaaahhhed and wowed about a while back.  His bio on his web site
says he is essentially self taught.

Lee Boe
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From owner-glass Mon Apr 20 19:41:53 1998
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From: leestat7 <leestat7@home.com>
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Subject: Re: cutting wine bottles
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 21:34:34 -0400
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Thanks Charles,

Just the simple instructions I was also looking for-bless you ,

Lee Boe
Rain-Boe's Creations

Charles Spitzer wrote:


> 
> 2 ways that i know of to do this easily. they both work on the same principle:
> 
> a) fill with cold water. tie a string around it at the place you want it to
> break. soak string with lighter fluid. light. stand back.
> 
> b) fill with cold water. wrap bottle with nichrome wire. hook up to a dc
> power generator. stand back quickly.
> 
> disclaimer: do this at your own risk, under supervision of adults, yada yada yada...
> 
> ---
> Charles Spitzer
> charlie@az.stratus.com
> Phoenix, AZ
> ----
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From owner-glass Mon Apr 20 21:19:54 1998
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From: "Howard and Elaine Rubin" <weaver51@teleport.com>
To: "glass@ bungie.com" <glass@bungi.com>
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Subject: bottle cutting
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 17:37:59 -0700
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I have another method when I have the need or urge to play with bottles.
I have a 6" diamond trim saw (primarily for destroying rocks that were
millions of years in the making ) that is good for a circumference score.

I can either hand hold the bottle or set up a jig and gently apply the
bottle to the diamond saw blade as they both turn.

Works fine..........and usually leaves a frosty and non-sharp edge on the
bottle parts.



enjoy, H

weaver51@teleport.com
http://www.teleport.com/~cbs/howard
enmeshed in the internet
trapped in the world wide web


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From owner-glass Tue Apr 21 08:54:56 1998
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Subject: Re: cutting wine bottles
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In a message dated 98-04-20 22:42:36 EDT, you write:

> Just the simple instructions I was also looking for-bless you ,
sorry but I had to laugh and then comment here, BLOWING UP BOTTLES IS THE
SIMPLE WAY??? Ok I guess it works but I think the part about standing back
made it a little scary.
'deb
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From owner-glass Tue Apr 21 10:53:54 1998
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Date: Tue, 21 Apr 98 09:11:02 -0700
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You wrote:
> sorry but I had to laugh and then comment here, BLOWING UP BOTTLES IS THE
> SIMPLE WAY??? Ok I guess it works but I think the part about standing back
> made it a little scary.

they don't blow up. these techniques work on the heat differential and just  
crack off. however, they could give off some chips, thus the comments on  
standing back. you don't want to be holding something that's going to crack on  
it's own without any warning.

---
Charles Spitzer
charlie@az.stratus.com
Phoenix, AZ
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From owner-glass Tue Apr 21 13:38:03 1998
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From: "Tony Regan" <aareg@globalnet.co.uk>
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Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 20:22:41 +0100
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Thanks to all for your responses

I must apologise for sending in html. I had just reloaded win95 after yet
another crash and forgot to click on plain text

Regards
Tony

"Glass Act" Cornwall UK

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From owner-glass Tue Apr 21 14:39:49 1998
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Actually, we got a wood saw...do got with the router and drill press and....
It's for household things, like bookcases, putting in a new closet, etc., but we
also want to create our own fan lamp bases, we're building our own stepping stone
molds, learn some framing, etc..  Am I going to be busy, you bet.  in fact, have
to go solder that dratted fan lamp now.  (I did get it foiled during X-Files).

Dorothy

fibers wrote:

> Dorothy,
> I've been considering a saw for glass also. What brand do you have?
> Nelda
>
> Family Account wrote:
>
>
> >
> > just got a new table saw and have lots of ideas...of course, there's lots
> > of learning to do, but my husband is a contractor's son....
> >
> > Dorothy K
> >
> > ----



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From owner-glass Tue Apr 21 15:05:34 1998
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From: "Laurean E. Clover" <vlclover@rconnect.com>
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Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 16:42:42 -0700
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I am wondering where one draws the line on your work being too
perfect.  I know this sounds like a dumb question, but it seems
this window I am working on is taking an extraordinary amount of
time because I am being nitpicky,  It's really driving me insane!
This window isn't a comission, just something in my spare time.

Laurean 

p.s,

Hi Debbie, looks like today I have had time to work on my glass! :-)
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From owner-glass Tue Apr 21 17:07:08 1998
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: perfectionism
Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 19:43:48 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr21.154348.0>
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Laurean E. Clover wrote:
> 
> I am wondering where one draws the line on your work being too
> perfect.  I know this sounds like a dumb question, but it seems
> this window I am working on is taking an extraordinary amount of
> time because I am being nitpicky,  It's really driving me insane!
> This window isn't a comission, just something in my spare time.
> 
> Laurean
> 
> p.s,
> 
> Hi Debbie, looks like today I have had time to work on my glass! :-)
> ----
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you should see what i'm going through with the sky city project.
basically the top looks like an ancient building (that could be a high
tech/modern city). and i find myself, "inside" the lamp, as if i was a
sky city person. worrying about scale, the size of the bricks, windows,
ballasters, etc. making sure that it's architecturly possible (if it
were real). 

i'm trying to go for a complex, real detail look. i've been working on
it a little each night about 1-1/2 hours. currently i have about 30-40
hours into it, and the shade design is only about half done. i still
have to design the base. i hav'nt figured out how many pieces it will be
yet, but i think i'm over 1000 now, the grand total will probably be
around 2000 - 2500 maybe a little more. 

it's just difficult on the brain to visualize the entire project in your
head. along with building it in your head, needing to figure out the
molds needed. i still have'nt totally figured out all the colors yet...

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
2-2-98 New Pages Added: 22 New Stained Glass Links, 7 New Projects Added
and My Updated Shop Photo's
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From owner-glass Tue Apr 21 18:43:05 1998
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From: "Laurean E. Clover" <vlclover@rconnect.com>
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Subject: Re: perfectionism
Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 20:05:24 -0700
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Wow Mike,
	 I am no where near the 2500 pc. mark.  This one is about
100.  So is this lampshade something your going to sell or keep?

Laurean
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From owner-glass Tue Apr 21 19:45:05 1998
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: "Laurean E. Clover" <vlclover@rconnect.com>
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Subject: Re: perfectionism
Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 22:00:12 -0400
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Laurean E. Clover wrote:
> 
> Wow Mike,
>          I am no where near the 2500 pc. mark.  This one is about
> 100.  So is this lampshade something your going to sell or keep?
> 
> Laurean
> ----
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this is a keep, unless of course someone wants to buy it. in which i
would sell it, and replace it with another new lamp. the one thing i
know for certain, it's going to weigh a ton...

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
2-2-98 New Pages Added: 22 New Stained Glass Links, 7 New Projects Added
and My Updated Shop Photo's
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From owner-glass Tue Apr 21 20:16:51 1998
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From: "suzy@comcat.com" <bits@ComCAT.COM>
To: "Laurean E. Clover" <vlclover@rconnect.com>,
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: perfectionism
Date: Tue, 21 Apr 98 22:18:02 -0400
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>I am wondering where one draws the line on your work being too
>perfect.  I know this sounds like a dumb question, but it seems
>this window I am working on is taking an extraordinary amount of
>time because I am being nitpicky,  It's really driving me insane!
>This window isn't a comission, just something in my spare time.
>
>Laurean 

Greetings Laurean,

I feel that there's nothing perfect about stained glass, and that's the 
way it should be. A good part of the beauty of the glass itself, is that 
it's not perfect. In fact I go out of my way to use parts of glass that 
aren't "perfect."

As far as the craftsmanship part goes, I always give that my best shot. 
If the work is for sale, I would not let it go with a broken piece or a 
badly-soldered seam.

Sometimes when a piece is finished, I'm not happy with a certain glass 
selection; that's part of the learning process and I'll file that away 
for the future. Another valuable thing to consider is that what you may 
not like, somebody out there somewhere, will! If you don't take risks, 
then you'll never know what works and what doesn't.

Bottom line: If the piece is for yourself, fix what you know will drive 
you crazy; but don't drive yourself crazy trying to be "perfect." My two 
cents worth!

Suzanne


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From owner-glass Tue Apr 21 21:23:27 1998
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From: Carl Childers <shyguy@vdot.net>
To: "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
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Subject: Glass Lovers Weekend Pt1 (long)
Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 23:40:19 -0400
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I was going to post his Sunday night, but got back from PA after 1 in
the morning. I was surprised none of our fellow travelers posted since,
so here goes -
Arrived in Allentown Friday night, stayed at the the airport Sheraton,
since it's down the block from W/C. Unfortunately, The friend I brought
didn't get much sleep, as the housekeeping crew was setting up for a
wedding the next day. (no fault of W/C, I booked this myself). But it
pays to b*tch, cuz my vocal friend complained, and didn't get charged
for the room.
Anyway, we got up at 4:00 am to make a 5:00 am bus. As I'm walking to
the front desk, I'm thinking 'Jeez, I must be the only idiot that would
get up this early to go look at glass'. As I turned the corner, I see a
line of people checking out - Ah, company!
Well it seems that the 'computer was doing an audit', and they couldn't
give us a receipt to check us out. Well, that sure changes my opinion of
the Sheraton chain.
So we pull into the parking lot, load up the luggage, and climb aboard.
while waiting to leave, I was joking around about 'Hey charles, what
about our coffee and bacon and eggs?'  It's hard to find breakfast at
4:30 am in an industrial park in Allentown. So our designated den mother
Marianne chimes up 'We have breakfast', and proceeds to dole out juice,
muffins and cake for all and any.
We take off heading west, and I find out that our own Maureen
(mosfunland) is sitting behind us. so we have someone else to talk ears
off besides the one people I brought along. Many caught up on sleep
missed by getting up before dawn Half way to Yough, we get a rest stop.
BTW, we had two busloads. The factory can't handle 100+ visitors, so one
bus went to the Yough train station store, and we went to see the glass
guys.
The building is not impressive, and looks like it might not last till
next winter, but the glass the make is still amazing. They took people
into the 'hot' room about 10 at a time. There are about 7 ovens/kilns in
the room, with 3 -5 going at any one time. Gets to be above 120 deg F in
the summer.
So in the middle of the room is this strange machine, with all kinds of
wires and hoses attached. There is a platform where a number of people
empty large ladles of molten glass (the number depending on how many
colors are to be in a sheet. They dip the ladles into the oven, removing
a load of glass. The ladles are of different sizes, depending what color
is the 'base, and what color is the 'accent'. So these guys arrive at
the same time, dumping their load together on this platform. The 'main
mixer' then swirls the glass around with a steel bar, making the swirls
in the glass. He can tell what he's doing, but it looked like a big pile
of orange glowing stuff to me.
Then the pile of glass, which looks like REALLY HOT taffy, is slid off
the platform, into two rotating rollers, kind of looks like a mangle on
it's side (to those of you old enuff to know what  a mangle is). Below
this, where the glass comes out, is a traveling table, which receives
the sheet of glass. The table and the rollers are trimmed to move in
sync, so the glass just lays flat, after being rolled. Then another guy
pushed the sheet into an annealing oven, where the glass is cooled over
a period of 25 minutes. It is then trimmed, and prepared to ship. We the
went to the mixing room where the magic alchemy takes place. Lots of
nasty toxic stuff goes into the making of the stuff we love to work
with. Al around the entrance, are 55 gallon drums of scrap glass, which
is sold to a recycler. he were some useful pieces, and some of the more
creative of us scrounged all we could carry. There were also drums of
rock sized chunks of glass left over from a color run. When they are
done making a run, the ovens are shut off, allowed to cool. This leaves
a solid mass of glass in the bottom of the kiln. They then break it up,
and this leaves a pile of  chunks. I got about a dozen interesting paper
weights out of that.
We then bussed off to the train station, which is Yough's retail outlet.
Housed in a 'National Register of Historic Places' restored train
station. Before shopping, we had this great BBQ, put out by the people
at Yough. Chicken, burgers, sausage, salads, cake cookies, even BEER and
WINE. Music to keep us entertained. Great folks - we were made to feel
REALLY welcome.
 Yough had an unbelievable sale, prices on full sheets, you wouldn't
believe. There is a glass blowing area, with craftsmen showing off their
skills. They even had the blown glass stuff on sale.
Well, it's getting late, so I'll do part two tomorrow, where we will
detail the creative navigating by our driver Ray, Terry's tribulations
of getting from Seattle (long distance award) to Allentown, and the
fabulous facilities at Nemacolin

--
'Every (person) must decide whether to walk in the light of creative
altruism or the darkness of selfishness. This is the judgement. Life's
most persistent and urgent question is "What are you doing for
others?' "Rev. Dr. Martin Luther King Jr.


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From owner-glass Tue Apr 21 22:24:44 1998
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X-Path: juno.com!dodgestudio
From: dodgestudio@juno.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: perfectionism
Date: Wed, 22 Apr 1998 00:44:12 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr21.204412.0>
References: <<199804220216.WAA09627@uz.comcat.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Two points I thought I'd add,

First one most of you know already, and that is that if you get the glass
too tight, solder can't flow between the pieces resulting in a weak
panel.  (Assuming we're talking foil here.)

Second..........(Illustrated in a story)..............I was working on
some windows for the chapel in a local convent.  A priest and his
minister friend were visiting the studio to choose the colors for the
windows.  Virtually everything here is our own work, but they became
fixed on looking at  a lamp done by a former employer of mine.  
About 25 years ago someone had dropped this large (about 30" diameter) 
cone shaped lamp on the floor at the place where I was working at the
time.  The boss had made this one himself as a prototype.   The damage
was extensive and he said I could take it home if I wanted it.  I carried
this broken lamp with me as we moved from home to home, and finally fixed
it about 6 years ago.
I have always rushed to point out that it is not our work when I see
someone looking at it.  I feel embarrassed by the wide spaces between the
pieces, break lines where I wouldn't put them, and poor color choices.  
So as usual I pointed out that it was not our work and began appologising
for the poor quality.  To my surprise, they both agreed that these flaws
were the charm of the lamp.  Something they referred to as "the hand of
man".

Gary Dodge              Dodge Studio Designs

http://www.dodgestudio.com

On Tue, 21 Apr 98 22:18:02 -0400 "suzy@comcat.com" <bits@ComCAT.COM>
writes:
>>I am wondering where one draws the line on your work being too
>>perfect.  I know this sounds like a dumb question, but it seems
>>this window I am working on is taking an extraordinary amount of
>>time because I am being nitpicky,  It's really driving me insane!
>>This window isn't a comission, just something in my spare time.
>>
>>Laurean 
>
>Greetings Laurean,
>
>I feel that there's nothing perfect about stained glass, and that's 
>the 
>way it should be. A good part of the beauty of the glass itself, is 
>that 
>it's not perfect. In fact I go out of my way to use parts of glass 
>that 
>aren't "perfect."
>
>As far as the craftsmanship part goes, I always give that my best 
>shot. 
>If the work is for sale, I would not let it go with a broken piece or 
>a 
>badly-soldered seam.
>
>Sometimes when a piece is finished, I'm not happy with a certain glass 
>
>selection; that's part of the learning process and I'll file that away 
>
>for the future. Another valuable thing to consider is that what you 
>may 
>not like, somebody out there somewhere, will! If you don't take risks, 
>
>then you'll never know what works and what doesn't.
>
>Bottom line: If the piece is for yourself, fix what you know will 
>drive 
>you crazy; but don't drive yourself crazy trying to be "perfect." My 
>two 
>cents worth!
>
>Suzanne

_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
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From owner-glass Tue Apr 21 22:55:44 1998
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From: Mosfunland <Mosfunland@aol.com>
To: shyguy@vdot.net, glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Glass Lovers Weekend/mos version.....
Date: Wed, 22 Apr 1998 01:03:20 EDT
Message-ID: <1998Apr22.5320.0>
Precedence: bulk

Well, here goes my version........lol....I picked up my girlfriend and we
drove up the turnpike and stayed at the Fairfield which adjoins Applebys by a
parkinglot....good to know when you plan to drink and walk......  It was a
fairly nice place with clean new soap, as opposed to the Sheratons repacked
"2nd".

The Warners packed a breakfast of juices, snacks, applecake, tiny little
cakes...napkins, wipes.....more snacks....and their ever present hospitality.
We had a long road ahead of us, and the woman behind me talked the entire 4.5
hour drive......sheesh.....  The guy ahead of me....(yes you carl) was great
fun and they were a welcome relief from the jabbering behind me....lol....
Youghighenny was an interesting place, I think a strong wind might take it
away, I guess I pictured "catwalks" and danger signs and OSHA regs posted
everywhere.....but boy is their glass beautiful!  The guys working there were
pleasant and answered numerous questions and worked right through our
"interruptions".  The Trainstation was beautifully restored and the staff was
overwhelmed by the number of people that descended upon it.....They did a
fantastic job!  The folks had a barbecue set up for us and it was great fun
also!  Hospitality and smiles were everywhere (not on my face during my wait
in line.....just a frown)....  The store had provided nice discounts on the
glass, but I was afraid to transport it back on the bottom of the bus, we had
enough shrapnel in the bus after our visit to the factory and store to have
killed us all in a "fenderbender".   I guess coming from Phila, where the
biggest hills are probably in Manayunk, I was totally unprepared for the hills
and valleys of western PA.....When we returned to the hotel, my friend waited
in line, while I relaxed.....and surveyed the large group of fraternity
members who were trooping down into a wing of the hotel....I grabbed my friend
and told her..."get a room AWAY from the party"....this is probably the first
time in my life I ever said anything like that to anyone!!!    We were beat
from getting up at 3 am, and were too busy looking out the window on the way
out to sleep....we ordered dinner via roomservice, where I discovered my
friend was actually a food critic in disguise....before we checked out she
filled out the "customer satisfaction" survey and critiqued the portabello
mushrooms' preparation and made suggestions to improve them.....I was just
happy we had unused soap.......   
  Saturday night we went up to Nemacolin resort......a huge white monolithic
beacon in the country night, shining from the top of one of these
mountains......but thats another story and will have to wait till tomorrow....
   Tomorrow:  Eight? tiffany lamps and Joe Porcelli........harrowing mountain
ride and 1/2......Fallingwater.

maureen
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From owner-glass Wed Apr 22 01:57:43 1998
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X-Path: fuse.net!pebble
From: Rick Lasita <pebble@fuse.net>
To: "Laurean E. Clover" <vlclover@rconnect.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: perfectionism
Date: Wed, 22 Apr 1998 04:17:42 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr22.01742.0>
References: <<1998Apr21.94242.0>>
Organization: Window Art GLass Studio
Precedence: bulk

Laurean E. Clover wrote:
> 
> I am wondering where one draws the line on your work being too
> perfect.  

Laurean,

I think "perfection", like beauty, is in the eye of the beholder. I'm
currently worrking on a Tiffany reproduction landscape panel, 590
pieces, that most of us would probably have done in foil, but noooooooo,
I had to do it in lead came. As with your project, this is not a
commision, just something I wanted to do because it presents a
challange. Though it is coming along just fine, I'm beginning to wonder
if it will "look right" when it is completed. I think most of us are our
own worst critic, and i bet what your working on now would look perfect
to everyone who sees it.
The important thing is that you are happy with the work when it is
completed.

Rick

http://home.fuse.net/crafts/index.html
updated 4/18/98
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From owner-glass Wed Apr 22 07:23:43 1998
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X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: perfectionism
Date: Wed, 22 Apr 1998 09:58:39 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr22.55839.0>
References: <<1998Apr21.204412.0>>
Precedence: bulk

dodgestudio@juno.com wrote:
> 
> Two points I thought I'd add,
> 
> First one most of you know already, and that is that if you get the glass
> too tight, solder can't flow between the pieces resulting in a weak
> panel.  (Assuming we're talking foil here.)
> 

that's not totally true. the solder will get it's self in there through
capillary action. like when you solder 2 copper pipes together, you
can't get a hair through the joint, but solder just sucks itself in
there.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
2-2-98 New Pages Added: 22 New Stained Glass Links, 7 New Projects Added
and My Updated Shop Photo's
----
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From owner-glass Wed Apr 22 08:26:53 1998
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From: Carl Childers <shyguy@vdot.net>
To: "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="------------B93BA7AB588F31CBA403548B"
Subject: Re:perfectionism]
Date: Wed, 22 Apr 1998 10:38:09 -0400
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--------------B93BA7AB588F31CBA403548B
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Having the opportunity to see, and touch real Tiiffany works at
Nemacolin, I realize that there is a point of 'good enough' - some of
the solder work on these treasures is far from perfect.

--------------B93BA7AB588F31CBA403548B
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Subject: Re: perfectionism
Date: Wed, 22 Apr 1998 04:17:42 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr22.01742.0>
References: <<1998Apr21.94242.0>>
Organization: Window Art GLass Studio
Precedence: bulk

Laurean E. Clover wrote:
> 
> I am wondering where one draws the line on your work being too
> perfect.  

Laurean,

I think "perfection", like beauty, is in the eye of the beholder. I'm
currently worrking on a Tiffany reproduction landscape panel, 590
pieces, that most of us would probably have done in foil, but noooooooo,
I had to do it in lead came. As with your project, this is not a
commision, just something I wanted to do because it presents a
challange. Though it is coming along just fine, I'm beginning to wonder
if it will "look right" when it is completed. I think most of us are our
own worst critic, and i bet what your working on now would look perfect
to everyone who sees it.
The important thing is that you are happy with the work when it is
completed.

Rick

http://home.fuse.net/crafts/index.html
updated 4/18/98
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From owner-glass Wed Apr 22 08:57:36 1998
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Subject: youg. tour
Date: Wed, 22 Apr 1998 10:37:30 -0400
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does anyone know if youg. gives tours to the "common people" if i were
to go down there myself and get a tour. and maybe go through some of
those glass bins myself? 

or do have to call first and make an appointment?

also is there a discount on the glass they make? and do they sell it to
the public? and if they do sell, how much less is it?

---Mike Savad

-- 
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http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
2-2-98 New Pages Added: 22 New Stained Glass Links, 7 New Projects Added
and My Updated Shop Photo's
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From owner-glass Wed Apr 22 13:01:15 1998
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Subject: Re: youg. tour
Date: Wed, 22 Apr 1998 15:35:44 -0400
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At 10:37 AM 4/22/98 -0400, M. Savad wrote:
>does anyone know if youg. gives tours to the "common people" if i were
>to go down there myself and get a tour. and maybe go through some of
>those glass bins myself? 
>
>or do have to call first and make an appointment?
>
>also is there a discount on the glass they make? and do they sell it to
>the public? and if they do sell, how much less is it?
>
>---Mike Savad
>
>-- 
Yes they do give tours to  common people.  And it is just as they described
it...a very small place really.  I did call ahead so they were expecting
me.  And I also asked for a wholesale discount which they wouldn't give to
me but the prices at the station shop were pretty good anyway.

Garden of Glass
Joyce Moran
Bellefontaine, OH

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From owner-glass Wed Apr 22 13:30:54 1998
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Subject: Glass Lovers Weekend
Date: Wed, 22 Apr 1998 15:55:39 EDT
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It TRULY was a Glass Lovers Weekend.....the trip sponsored by W-C... a visit
to the Youghiogheny glass factory, and to "Falling Water", (a  Frank Lloyd
Wright  designed home) and  to "Nemacolin Woodlands Resort".

Bungians, let me first say, I am not a paid employee of W-C. Normallly, just a
lurker within this interesting group.  And now ,with that being said, I can go
on with the accolades.

People came from all over the country for this tour...California, Seattle, the
East Coast and places in between.  They were  from all aspects of the stained-
glass industry......
novice, expert, artist, teacher, student,  retailer and wholesaler.

What was so striking about the trip, was that W-C arranged to share  with us,
their  supplier of this most beautiful glass, and , great discounts were
offered,  direct from the manufacturer,  to us, for this one day.  It doesn't
take a brain surgeon to realize that, with this opportunity of buying direct
from Youghiogheny, and not from W-C, some profits were being  lost here.  But,
what W-C gained from this trip,  will be returned two-fold.  Their image has
certainly been enlarged, again, according to  our two bussloads of individuals
who had a great time.

John Triggs, from Youghiogheny, is a gracious man, whose company, as you all
know, puts out that gorgeous "stuff".  The viewing of his
operation,......conducted by himself and his  staff...... was totally
unrehearsed, friendly, warm (no pun intended with those hot ovens bellowing),
and informative.  We witnessed sheets of gold being tossed into the hot
furnaces,  removed,  and  then,  deftly mixed into the molten mass of glass,
pressed, and annealed .  What emerged  were sheets of sumptuous, colored,
gorgeous, glass.  It was awesome! 

After touring the factory and exploring the restored "Train Station" (by
Youghiogheny) and,  buying,  "to die for"  glass, at,   "can you believe it "
prices, John Triggs arranged a great (and unexpected) barbeque for us which
was enjoyed under the tent-top on the grounds of the "Train Station".  (By-
the-way....the "Train Station" is filled with beautiful finished pieces  of
glass....original tiffany lamps, windows, etc., etc.,etc.)

The Nemacolin Hotel is, rightly,  a five-star...not only for its gracious
rooms,  the many huge, magnificent, chrystal chandeliers,  original  paintings
on the walls,  the beautiful stained glass  lamps and panels, but, also for
its' restaurants, that several of us had an opportunity to sample....staying a
little bit longer than  anticipated.

"Falling Water", the Frank Lloyd Wright house,  is  built  into   several
layers, atop a waterful , amongst large rocks ( which were  incorporated into
the  design of the floor,  in front of a huge fireplace in the main room). The
natural setting for this house is beautiful and should be enjoyed by a walk
(hike) in the surrounding woodlands.  

The trip was not , however, without  its' glitches.... (bus schedules, etc.)
but some of the little inconveniences did not mar the experience, and
certainly did  make it more memorable.  Meeting glass lovers, expressing all
points of views within an industry , that is going thru so much change, was
refreshing.  Speaking with a studio owner, from Seattle and hearing his ideas
for small glass shops in his area, was enlightening.  

So...pack your bag, your sense of humor, your anticipation, your sense of
adventure and hurry over to sign on for any trips W-C may offer in the future.

Kudos to Charles, Maryann and Chris for the time and effort they put into
making this such a memorable "happening".
                                                    
                                                           Lavergne (the
lurker)







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From owner-glass Wed Apr 22 13:53:06 1998
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From: jroey@juno.com (jerri m Roey)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Glass Lovers Weekend/mos version.....
Date: Wed, 22 Apr 1998 15:33:39 -0400
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Thanks to Carl and Maureen for sharing your stories.  I'm totally green
with envy, and looking forward to the next installment.

Jerri

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From owner-glass Wed Apr 22 14:02:34 1998
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Subject: Re: youg. tour
Date: Wed, 22 Apr 1998 16:27:37 EDT
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Mike:     I don;t know for sure about Youghiogheny giving tours to the
"common" folk.  But an educated guess would be that they do not.  I say that
because of the layout of their manufacturing facility.  Individual tours would
be quite disruptive, as they are not set up to accommodate that kind of
viewing.

They do not have a discount store located at the factory itself.  The glass
that was made available to us, was brought down from the factory to the "Train
Station" for this particular day, and, the discount given to W-C group for the
one day only, was done as a courtesy from Youghiogheny.

Now, this is only my perception, filled in by little bits and comments heard
throught the day.  (There actually was a sign posted saying that, discounts
were only for W-C tour for this one day).  However, my view is not the
official view, and the best way to get that, would be to go to the source and
call Youghiogheny.

                                         Lavergne
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From owner-glass Wed Apr 22 15:30:04 1998
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Subject: Re: youg. tour
Date: Wed, 22 Apr 1998 17:36:44 -0400
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glasschic wrote:

> >--
> Yes they do give tours to  common people.  And it is just as they described
> it...a very small place really.  I did call ahead so they were expecting
> me.  And I also asked for a wholesale discount which they wouldn't give to
> me but the prices at the station shop were pretty good anyway.
>
> Garden of Glass
> Joyce Moran
> Bellefontaine, OH
>
> ----

Well, that's good to hear.  We're kind of thinking of a week + in August
something like this...Start at Saratoga Springs for the races (one of my other
passions), then head across NY, maybe stopping at Ithaca or Corning, down into
PA to visit Youghigheny, then maybe into WV for Wissmach (?) in Paden City,
then back across PA to Allentown to W-C.  Obviously plans are not concrete yet
and I fear there will be little room in the car for our tent come time to go
home!  I had originally proposed this for combining with a longer trip to
Kentucky (Kentucky Horse Park) including a stop in Ohio at the Rock and Roll
Hall of Fame.  So, we'll do Kentucky some other time.  Lots of driving, lots of
putting up the tent.  Ought to be fun -- or insanity.

Dorothy K from Connecticut

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From owner-glass Wed Apr 22 17:03:51 1998
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To: "Family Account" <shad@mail2.nai.net>,
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Subject: Re: youg. tour
Date: Wed, 22 Apr 98 19:31:44 -0400
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Dorothy wrote:
>Well, that's good to hear.  We're kind of thinking of a week + in August
>something like this...Start at Saratoga Springs for the races (one of my 
>other
>passions), then head across NY, maybe stopping at Ithaca or Corning, down 
>into
>PA to visit Youghigheny, then maybe into WV for Wissmach (?) in Paden City,
>then back across PA to Allentown to W-C.

Dorothy, if you haven't been to Corning I highly recommend it. Was there 
two or three years ago and really enjoyed it!



PLEASE CHECK THIS ADDRESS AGAINST YOUR FILES
email should be:
suzy@comcat.com
Thanks


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From owner-glass Wed Apr 22 17:35:16 1998
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From: Gloria & George <3hounds@usaor.net>
To: "'LByrne21'" <LByrne21@aol.com>, "morn@nac.net" <morn@nac.net>,
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Subject: RE: youg. tour
Date: Wed, 22 Apr 1998 18:18:25 -0100
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Mike and  others,
I live within 45 minutes of Yough, and in the past year have been out =
there 4 times and I intend to have many more visits there..  I started =
to go to Yough about 6 years ago, before they opened the train station.. =
And since the train station opened, I believe they have improved.. =
Before their retail shop (the train station) you could go to the the =
factory, which is a beautiful pole building with dirt floors, and the =
best bargain was their misc. sample boxes (surprise boxes at $10 per =
box, size 4  x 6  and say 5 pounds of glass- do not hold me to the =
specifics, please). The last trip I did was early Dec. at the train =
station .. The reg. glass was $1.50 for a hobby sheet, say 8 x 10.. The =
stipple glass was $2.50 for that size..     For the last 2 tries through =
Whittmore Durgin I tried to order their Neodymuim (please spelling) =
blue.. This glass is light blue unlit, and with a light it become a soft =
pink/gold..  The last 2 orders from Whitmore, they sent me a white like =
icecle glass.. I was able to buy a whole half sheet, my choice of side =
of the glass for $1.50 per  the hobby sheet size  ..  Whittmore was at =
least $6 per pound.. The last time I was there, the factory just sent =
down a few crates, and I did pig out.. Irrid. whites with gold hint, . =
ruby red cathedrals,  blues you would not believe..   Also, I believe =
they have the cheapest prices on copper wire..=20
=20
And one of the most redeeming qualities, they are opened  Sunday  (I =
think from 12 to 4)  So George and I could visit the local drive in flea =
market ( for GF) and I could do my glass shopping..=20
Take care
Gloria
-----Original Message-----
From:	LByrne21 [SMTP:LByrne21@aol.com]
Sent:	Wednesday, April 22, 1998 6:28 PM
To:	morn@nac.net; glass@bungi.com
Subject:	Re: youg. tour

Mike:     I don;t know for sure about Youghiogheny giving tours to the
"common" folk.  But an educated guess would be that they do not.  I say =
that
because of the layout of their manufacturing facility.  Individual tours =
would
be quite disruptive, as they are not set up to accommodate that kind of
viewing.

They do not have a discount store located at the factory itself.  The =
glass
that was made available to us, was brought down from the factory to the =
"Train
Station" for this particular day, and, the discount given to W-C group =
for the
one day only, was done as a courtesy from Youghiogheny.

Now, this is only my perception, filled in by little bits and comments =
heard
throught the day.  (There actually was a sign posted saying that, =
discounts
were only for W-C tour for this one day).  However, my view is not the
official view, and the best way to get that, would be to go to the =
source and
call Youghiogheny.

                                         Lavergne
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From owner-glass Wed Apr 22 19:05:21 1998
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Subject: Re: Glass Lovers Weekend Pt1 (long)
Date: Wed, 22 Apr 1998 21:19:54 EDT
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Carl,
You write a wonderful story......I feel like I was there......thanks so much
for sharing this......
Diane Manchester
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From owner-glass Wed Apr 22 21:10:38 1998
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From: dodgestudio@juno.com
To: morn@nac.net
Subject: Re: perfectionism
Date: Wed, 22 Apr 1998 23:20:42 -0400
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References: <<1998Apr21.204412.0>>>
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Mike,

Sure, capillary action will draw as much solder as will fit in, assuming
that the joint gets hot enough, just like sweating pipes.  However, just
as tinned foil is essentially no stronger that just plain foil, the tiny
coating of solder that can squeak in between really tightly fitted glass
is just about irrelevant.

Gary Dodge              Dodge Studio Designs

http://www.dodgestudio.com

On Wed, 22 Apr 1998 09:58:39 -0400 "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net> writes:
>dodgestudio@juno.com wrote:
>> 
>> Two points I thought I'd add,
>> 
>> First one most of you know already, and that is that if you get the 
>glass
>> too tight, solder can't flow between the pieces resulting in a weak
>> panel.  (Assuming we're talking foil here.)
>> 
>
>that's not totally true. the solder will get it's self in there 
>through
>capillary action. like when you solder 2 copper pipes together, you
>can't get a hair through the joint, but solder just sucks itself in
>there.
>
>---Mike Savad
>
>-- 

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From owner-glass Thu Apr 23 07:32:29 1998
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
Subject: Re: youghiogeny burn off rates
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 1998 08:21:27 +0100
Message-ID: <1998Apr23.92127.0>
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In message <1998Apr18.123730.0@?>, "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net> writes
>i was wondering what the highest temerature i could have with
>irridescent? i tried a few experiments, which came out. but a few
>other's that did'nt, all the irr. burned off. and i can't figure out
>why

I don't know why the irridescence burns off (except that it is a
microscopic layer on the top of the glass?),  but I know that if you
fire the glass with the irridescence down, it does not fire off at
slumping temperatures.  Another choice is to place a clear sheet over
the irridescent glass.  This seems to work too.


-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Thu Apr 23 08:15:28 1998
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From: "Laurean E. Clover" <vlclover@rconnect.com>
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Subject: pefectionism
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 1998 08:10:10 -0700
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Thanks to all of you for your insights! 
I have yet to get back in to work on my
glass.. but I am again looking forward
to it instead of dreading it.

Laurean


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From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: perfectionism
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 1998 08:59:48 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr23.45948.0>
References: <<1998Apr21.204412.0>>>
Precedence: bulk

dodgestudio@juno.com wrote:
> 
> Mike,
> 
> Sure, capillary action will draw as much solder as will fit in, assuming
> that the joint gets hot enough, just like sweating pipes.  However, just
> as tinned foil is essentially no stronger that just plain foil, the tiny
> coating of solder that can squeak in between really tightly fitted glass
> is just about irrelevant.
> 
> Gary Dodge              Dodge Studio Designs
> 
> http://www.dodgestudio.com
> 
> On Wed, 22 Apr 1998 09:58:39 -0400 "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net> writes:
> >dodgestudio@juno.com wrote:
> >>
> >> Two points I thought I'd add,
> >>
> >> First one most of you know already, and that is that if you get the
> >glass
> >> too tight, solder can't flow between the pieces resulting in a weak
> >> panel.  (Assuming we're talking foil here.)
> >>
> >
> >that's not totally true. the solder will get it's self in there
> >through
> >capillary action. like when you solder 2 copper pipes together, you
> >can't get a hair through the joint, but solder just sucks itself in
> >there.
> >
> >---Mike Savad
> >
> >--
> 
> _____________________________________________________________________
> You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
> Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
> Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]


what it really boils down to is: how strong the foil is to the glass.
you can have a cubic yard of solder between joints, but the joint can
still fail due to the weakness of the grip of the foil. or if the joint
is strait and is allowed to flex, then it really does'nt matter how much
solder is in there, nor the foil grip.

---Mike Savad

-- 
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2-2-98 New Pages Added: 22 New Stained Glass Links, 7 New Projects Added
and My Updated Shop Photo's
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From owner-glass Thu Apr 23 12:27:05 1998
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From: shaley@mfi.com (Suzanne Haley)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="IMA.Boundary.8076533980"
Subject: Re[2]: youghiogeny burn off rates (YOUGHIOGHENY)
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 1998 11:37:48 -0700
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     Youghiogheny has a website.  http//www.stainedglassbiz.com From the 
     menu on the left hand side choose "links" then Youghiogheny.  Lisa 
     at Yoghiogheny is great.  You can email her direct with your 
     questions at:   youghart@juno.com
     
     Suggest also looking at the Spectrum Glass website.  
     http://www.spectrumglass.com
     
     From the menu, go into "FUSING".  See detail "Using Iridescent Glass". 
     Uroboros has Spectrum-compatible Iridescent glass available that will 
     not burn off, even at full-fuse temperatures.
     
     You can also download their firing guide.
     
     Good luck.
     Suzanne Haley
     Koi Glass Studio, California
     
     
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: youghiogeny burn off rates
Author:  Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk> at Internet 
Date:    4/23/1998 8:21 AM
     
     
In message <1998Apr18.123730.0@?>, "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net> writes 
>i was wondering what the highest temerature i could have with 
>irridescent? i tried a few experiments, which came out. but a few 
>other's that did'nt, all the irr. burned off. and i can't figure out 
>why
     
I don't know why the irridescence burns off (except that it is a 
microscopic layer on the top of the glass?),  but I know that if you 
fire the glass with the irridescence down, it does not fire off at 
slumping temperatures.  Another choice is to place a clear sheet over 
the irridescent glass.  This seems to work too.
     
     
-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk 
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From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
Subject: Re: youghiogeny burn off rates
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 1998 08:21:27 +0100
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From owner-glass Thu Apr 23 14:32:08 1998
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: youghiogeny burn off rates
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 1998 09:04:54 -0400
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Steve Richard wrote:
> 
> In message <1998Apr18.123730.0@?>, "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net> writes
> >i was wondering what the highest temerature i could have with
> >irridescent? i tried a few experiments, which came out. but a few
> >other's that did'nt, all the irr. burned off. and i can't figure out
> >why
> 
> I don't know why the irridescence burns off (except that it is a
> microscopic layer on the top of the glass?),  but I know that if you
> fire the glass with the irridescence down, it does not fire off at
> slumping temperatures.  Another choice is to place a clear sheet over
> the irridescent glass.  This seems to work too.
> 
> --
> Steve Richard
> Verrier Art Glass Ltd
> s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk


this is what i'm doing, i'm slumping glass in home made molds, to make
my own jewel like things. i probably should have used black bullseye
irr, becuase it can stand up to the heat and not burn off at all. i've
been using 1600 to 1700 temps. high enough to get the detail, i've done
this about 3 time successfully, and 3 times not. i think i have enough
of them for my project, but right now it's more of a mystery of why some
burn off and other's dont.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
2-2-98 New Pages Added: 22 New Stained Glass Links, 7 New Projects Added
and My Updated Shop Photo's
----
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From owner-glass Thu Apr 23 15:52:59 1998
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From: "Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Foil & Soldering
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 1998 16:48:07 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr23.12487.0>
Precedence: bulk

Message text written by "M. Savad"
>what it really boils down to is: how strong the foil is to the glass.
you can have a cubic yard of solder between joints, but the joint can
still fail due to the weakness of the grip of the foil. or if the joint
is strait and is allowed to flex, then it really does'nt matter how much
solder is in there, nor the foil grip.<

So...does this imply that a wider foil, say 1/4" makes a better
constructed solder channel than a 7/32" , since there is more
of the foil overlapped on top of the glass?  If this is true,
(which I suspect it is), then the question of strength versus
beauty comes into play.  For, to my mind, the thinner the
solder line (and the more glass showing), the better.  But this
may not be the best for long-term construction.

So...is there any sort of advice you can give on which width of
foil to use in which circumstance?  For instance, with Spectrum
Waterglass (a slightly thinner glass than normal), I prefer to use
3/16" or 7/32".  But with highly textured glass, the 1/4" is my
preferred.  Is there a size to be used for lamp construction versus
panel construction?  Or is it more just a function of how much
overlap is there on the top of the glass?

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles, P.O.Box 903, Skippack, PA 19474-0903
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From owner-glass Thu Apr 23 16:14:21 1998
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From: "Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Dale Tiffany, Inc. anyone?
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 1998 17:54:06 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr23.13546.0>
Precedence: bulk

I'm repairing a little dragonfly "Tiffany" style lampshade
which has a brass plate inscribed "Dale Tiffany, Inc."
soldered to the inside of the lampshade.  Can anyone
tell me something about the Dale Tiffany, Inc. company?
It's obviously a modern piece.  Any info would be
appreciated.

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles, P.O.Box 903, Skippack, PA 19474-0903
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From owner-glass Thu Apr 23 16:20:42 1998
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X-Path: teleport.com!weaver51
From: "Howard and Elaine Rubin" <weaver51@teleport.com>
To: "glass@ bungie.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: perfectionism
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 1998 09:17:20 -0700
Message-ID: <1998Apr23.21720.0>
Precedence: bulk

Over the years I have had more than 200 students to attempt to impart my
knowledge and skills to.
Some have followed my dictums to the letter, others thought they knew more
than I did.
A short case in point, one of my students was a retired craftsman and a VERY
meticulous worker.
He also suffered from EXTREME frugality....His work was as close to flawless
as possible, BUT very poor choices of glass, based on PRICE alone caused
people to glance quickly at it and then study and gush over much lesser
quality craftsmanship that "looked good".

Technical skills can be evaluated, but ART is certainly subjective.

I strive to be as technically clean and accurate as I can without spending
countless (I do count all my hours) hours on things that will not over-all
effect the finished product.

How it looks is the first criteria that will catch anyone's eye. The
technical expertise will be evident to anyone who knows what they are
seeing, the others who have no clue buy 3rd world product(s) on price alone.

You need to do the BEST you can, and always look to improve the skills you
have and use them on your next project.
I  am working on unit #1,044 which is my 4th hydrangea and this one will be
better (IMHO) than the other ones from the color standpoint.

It is getting more difficult to be SURE my next shade will be better, as I
have done a few over the years that I have been very pleased with. Next
shades are either a pair of 16" poppies or a pair of 18" Turban peonies.

I may comment later on letting students proceed without the basic skills.
enjoy, H

weaver51@teleport.com
http://www.teleport.com/~cbs/howard
enmeshed in the internet
trapped in the world wide web


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From owner-glass Thu Apr 23 16:44:50 1998
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From: Gloria & George <3hounds@usaor.net>
To: "'M. Savad'" <morn@nac.net>, "'bungians'" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: RE: youghiogeny burn off rates
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 1998 18:10:38 -0100
Message-ID: <1998Apr23.171038.0>
Precedence: bulk



Mike,
Is the yough glass fusible or able to take the reheat..   I slump some =
unknown glass,  foiled it and soldered it and than the fision took =
place.. All the flower petals developed tiny crack lines.. So watch your =
glass.. Once I read if you heated the glass, you could wrap it in =
newspapeer and place it in the freezer for a few days, and see if it =
cracks.
Gloria

-----Original Message-----
From:	M. Savad [SMTP:morn@nac.net]
Sent:	Thursday, April 23, 1998 11:05 AM
To:	Steve Richard
Subject:	Re: youghiogeny burn off rates

Steve Richard wrote:
>=20
> In message <1998Apr18.123730.0@?>, "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net> writes
> >i was wondering what the highest temerature i could have with
> >irridescent? i tried a few experiments, which came out. but a few
> >other's that did'nt, all the irr. burned off. and i can't figure out
> >why
>=20
> I don't know why the irridescence burns off (except that it is a
> microscopic layer on the top of the glass?),  but I know that if you
> fire the glass with the irridescence down, it does not fire off at
> slumping temperatures.  Another choice is to place a clear sheet over
> the irridescent glass.  This seems to work too.
>=20
> --
> Steve Richard
> Verrier Art Glass Ltd
> s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk


this is what i'm doing, i'm slumping glass in home made molds, to make
my own jewel like things. i probably should have used black bullseye
irr, becuase it can stand up to the heat and not burn off at all. i've
been using 1600 to 1700 temps. high enough to get the detail, i've done
this about 3 time successfully, and 3 times not. i think i have enough
of them for my project, but right now it's more of a mystery of why some
burn off and other's dont.

---Mike Savad

--=20
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
2-2-98 New Pages Added: 22 New Stained Glass Links, 7 New Projects Added
and My Updated Shop Photo's
----
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From owner-glass Thu Apr 23 17:17:36 1998
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Subject: Corning Was -Re: youg. tour
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 1998 19:30:24 -0400
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suzy@comcat.com wrote:

>
>
> Dorothy, if you haven't been to Corning I highly recommend it. Was there
> two or three years ago and really enjoyed it!
>
> PLEASE CHECK THIS ADDRESS AGAINST YOUR FILES
> email should be:
> suzy@comcat.com
> Thanks
>
>

  Actually, we went to Corning a couple of years ago.  Drove over on Saturday,
went to the museum on Sunday, home on monday.  The museum was fascinating (but
the teenage daughter was bored out of her mind), but we didn't have time to see
much of downtown.  We did end up having a fascinating visit with a glass blower.

However, I lived on the outskirts of Ithaca as a child (went to school in
Freeville), and I kind of want to go back and see if the real gorges are as
"gorgeous" (Could I resist?) as I remember from over 30 years ago.  Gee, maybe
there's stained glass windows in some of the old Cornell buildings...

Dorothy K

--------------3FB66D26300D780237A11271
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<HTML>
&nbsp;

<P>suzy@comcat.com wrote:
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE>&nbsp;

<P>Dorothy, if you haven't been to Corning I highly recommend it. Was there
<BR>two or three years ago and really enjoyed it!

<P>PLEASE CHECK THIS ADDRESS AGAINST YOUR FILES
<BR>email should be:
<BR>suzy@comcat.com
<BR>Thanks
<BR>&nbsp;
<BR><A HREF="http://www.bungi.com/glass"></A>&nbsp;</BLOCKQUOTE>
&nbsp; Actually, we went to Corning a couple of years ago.&nbsp; Drove
over on Saturday, went to the museum on Sunday, home on monday.&nbsp; The
museum was fascinating (but the teenage daughter was bored out of her mind),
but we didn't have time to see much of downtown.&nbsp; We did end up having
a fascinating visit with a glass blower.
<BR>However, I lived on the outskirts of Ithaca as a child (went to school
in Freeville), and I kind of want to go back and see if the real gorges
are as "gorgeous" (Could I resist?) as I remember from over 30 years ago.&nbsp;
Gee, maybe there's stained glass windows in some of the old Cornell buildings...

<P>Dorothy K</HTML>

--------------3FB66D26300D780237A11271--

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From owner-glass Thu Apr 23 17:50:14 1998
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X-Path: netcom.ca!mfig
From: "Mike Figgy" <mfig@netcom.ca>
To: "Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Dale Tiffany, Inc. anyone?
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 1998 20:03:47 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr23.16347.0>
Precedence: bulk

A company that manufactures Tiffany style shades as well as solid brass
sandcast bases. They manufacture off shore, but have a showroom in New
Jersey and California. They have several 'quality' lines ranging from shades
using machine rolled glass such as Wissmach (some even proprietary- meaning
it's made just for them- usually regular opal colours but rolled with their
flemish texture, something not in their normal production cycle).  Their
market is lighting and gift shops. We used to be a distributor of their
bases only until they decided they'd rather sell them with their shades
only.
Fantasy In Glass, 703 The Queensway, Toronto, Canada, M8Y 1L2
(Tel:416-252-6868)
Canada's first and still its only officially sanctioned stained glass
supplier.

-----Original Message-----
From: Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Date: April 23, 1998 7:38 PM
Subject: Dale Tiffany, Inc. anyone?


>I'm repairing a little dragonfly "Tiffany" style lampshade
>which has a brass plate inscribed "Dale Tiffany, Inc."
>soldered to the inside of the lampshade.  Can anyone
>tell me something about the Dale Tiffany, Inc. company?
>It's obviously a modern piece.  Any info would be
>appreciated.
>
>Christie A. Wood
>Art Glass Ensembles, P.O.Box 903, Skippack, PA 19474-0903
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>

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From owner-glass Thu Apr 23 18:24:17 1998
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From: CWWSLW <CWWSLW@aol.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Dale Tiffany, Inc. anyone?
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 1998 20:57:46 EDT
Message-ID: <1998Apr24.05746.0>
Precedence: bulk

   My boss gave me 4 catalogs from this co. She saw them at a gift market in
Atlanta.
I use them as a reference tool to choose colors and get ideas. They do
everything, photo frames, lamps, candle holders, mosaics, boxes, almost
anything you can think of. Some of the lamps have the mosaic base. Just
gorgeous !!!
   It doesn't say if Dale is related to THE Tiffany, so I'd doubt it.  It just
says that all products are assembled in the USA. I wish you could see some of
the pictures in this book !!! 

Susan
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From owner-glass Thu Apr 23 19:26:56 1998
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
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Subject: Re: Foil & Soldering
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 1998 21:49:04 -0400
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Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo wrote:
> 
> Message text written by "M. Savad"
> >what it really boils down to is: how strong the foil is to the glass.
> you can have a cubic yard of solder between joints, but the joint can
> still fail due to the weakness of the grip of the foil. or if the joint
> is strait and is allowed to flex, then it really does'nt matter how much
> solder is in there, nor the foil grip.<
> 
> So...does this imply that a wider foil, say 1/4" makes a better
> constructed solder channel than a 7/32" , since there is more
> of the foil overlapped on top of the glass?  If this is true,
> (which I suspect it is), then the question of strength versus
> beauty comes into play.  For, to my mind, the thinner the
> solder line (and the more glass showing), the better.  But this
> may not be the best for long-term construction.
> 
> So...is there any sort of advice you can give on which width of
> foil to use in which circumstance?  For instance, with Spectrum
> Waterglass (a slightly thinner glass than normal), I prefer to use
> 3/16" or 7/32".  But with highly textured glass, the 1/4" is my
> preferred.  Is there a size to be used for lamp construction versus
> panel construction?  Or is it more just a function of how much
> overlap is there on the top of the glass?
> 
> Christie A. Wood
> Art Glass Ensembles, P.O.Box 903, Skippack, PA 19474-0903
> ----
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primarily i use 3/16". it's mainly weak if the design is weak. the foil
width could make a difference in some cases (providing the foil is
really stuck onto the glass well. more solder in between is actually
worse because it can act as a fulcrum and help tear off the foil. 

for thicker glass a wider foil should be used. there should'nt be any
less then a 1/16" of foil overlaping (or there abouts). ripple is a pain
because flux can get into the nooks and may help the solder to get
white, and unstick the foil though it's a pain i try to tuck the foil
down inside the lines. you also get a neater bead doing it in this
manner. though it takes 3 times longer to do that.

mainly what makes a panel strong, is a strong design. there should'nt be
any lines that go straight across the panel. it should be strengthened
with a background piece or rebar or strongline, etc. so the pieces will
help each other out.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
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2-2-98 New Pages Added: 22 New Stained Glass Links, 7 New Projects Added
and My Updated Shop Photo's
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From owner-glass Thu Apr 23 20:04:47 1998
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From: "Howard and Elaine Rubin" <weaver51@teleport.com>
To: "Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Foil & Soldering
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 1998 17:42:35 -0700
Message-ID: <1998Apr23.104235.0>
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IMHO (not so very H) the lamp style ( panel or small piece dome) makes a
difference as well as the thickness of the glass.

When I used to do 8 panel production shades (using Spectrum), I ALWAYS used
7/32 foil. My nephew and his father as well as my son, took great enjoyment
in shooting out the glass of the non-saleable shades (due to a crack). The
solder covered foil remained as a skeleton after the glass had been totally
removed. The major failure of panel lamps can be related to no or little
grinding, poor cleaning prior to soldering and poor soldering techniques.

I usually use 3/16 foil for dome type lamps if the glass is as thin or
thinner than Spectrum (1/8").
Someone (blamed on movers) put a chair leg through a 20" dragonfly of mine
with about 60 pieces that had to be replaced. The curvature of the lamp
remained intact and it was structurally solid. By the way, one has to figure
at least DOUBLE the labor for the replacement of the pieces as you have to
TAKE OUT pieces before you can put pieces BACK IN! (but that is another
story).

Hope it helps,
enjoy, H

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From owner-glass Thu Apr 23 20:23:30 1998
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From: "Howard and Elaine Rubin" <weaver51@teleport.com>
To: "Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
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Subject: Re: Dale Tiffany, Inc. anyone?
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 1998 17:32:32 -0700
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Hi Christie,

Dale Tiffany is an ASSUMED name...The gentleman who owns the IMPORT company
is of Asian origin, and to best of my knowledge is NOT related to the
Tiffany family.
Due to the name, it is a "work" of Tiffany (dale).

I have an address some where in my files, Moonachie, NJ rings a bell.

Like most work produced where the cost of labor is not very high, the pieces
tend to be rather poor and hurriedly done.
>From earlier posts, you may have ascertained that I am not REAL forgiving of
imported shades.
Price of those is not a factor, however, as I have a simple equation to get
a price from me when one compares their price....ADD a zero immediately to
the left of the decimal point and multiply by 1.5.

CHARGE a lot for the repair...may be able to offset the low price of the
original purchase!

I have seen a few import companies' shades at some of the wholesale gift
shows, and so far quality is NOT evident. I do enjoy seeing the prices drop
as a company figures out to do it cheaper and or cut corners.
With the current problems in alot of the Asian countries, is it only a
matter of time until they PAY US to take their products?

sorry (not really) for the diatribe!

enjoy, H





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From owner-glass Thu Apr 23 21:05:57 1998
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Subject: Re: perfectionism
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 1998 23:30:34 -0400
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M Savad twistes the bytes to say:

 M> what it really boils down to is: how strong the foil is to the glass.
 M> you can have a cubic yard of solder between joints, but the joint can
 M> still fail due to the weakness of the grip of the foil. or if the joint
 M> is strait and is allowed to flex, then it really does'nt matter how much
 M> solder is in there, nor the foil grip.

I don't understand something...

If the solder surrounds the glass from each side (in a shape similar
to a H came), why is the foil's glue important after the piece has
been solder? The solder should serve as an enclosing and since it is
sufficiently hard, this "came" does not bend easily.



--
Daniel M. German                  "Cyberspace. A consensual hallucination
                                   experienced daily by billions
   William Gibson ->               of legitimate operators in every nation"
http://csgwww.uwaterloo.ca/~dmg/home.html
dmg@csg.uwaterloo.ca

 
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From owner-glass Thu Apr 23 21:54:10 1998
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Subject: Re: Dale Tiffany, Inc. anyone?
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 1998 21:34:40 -0700 (PDT)
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Christie:  I believe Dale Tiffany works out of New York and Los Angles.  I
have heard the glass is cut in New York and sent to Los Angles to send to
Mexico for assembly.  Some of their work is quite lovely.  They do have
beautiful bases and sell to a medium priced market.  They mainly sell to
lighting stores.  The lamps look quite nice...some not such good
workmanship.  However, they do use good lamp glass.  Peggy

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From owner-glass Thu Apr 23 22:27:22 1998
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Subject: Re: Dale Tiffany, Inc. anyone?
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 1998 21:21:37 -0700
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As for the assembled in the USA, anyone want to speculate if they are made
here.

Best guess MADE in an Asian country and shipped separately (shades and
bases) and then ASSEMBLED here, like, yes we put the shades on the bases
here.

enjoy, H



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From owner-glass Fri Apr 24 01:11:50 1998
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Subject: Yough Trip Pt2 (Longer)
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 1998 03:36:10 -0400
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Where were we? Oh yes, leaving the train station. Our lead bus driver,
Ray, was about to demonstrate his keen navigational skills. The road to
the factory was at a 5 way intersection, where we took a 'soft right'.
We got this info after a few cellular phone calls on the road. But the
directions to the hotel must have not beeen so definitive, cuz we were
ambling down this country lane for a while, when 'Wrong Way' Ray hooks a
U turn into the parking lot of a sawmill. A number of cows in a field
next to the mill and the mill workers smiled in unison as these two 60
foot long behemoths went off roading through their dirt parking lot.
Some of the mill workers waved. I wonder if tour buses often get lost
down their way.
After the false start, we made our way to the Holiday in in beautiful
downtown Uniontown. As we overwhelmed the checkin clerks, a few of the
people who made it through to their rooms re-appeared claiming the halls
were full of Valley girls, doing their best to ruin their livers a 5:00
in the afternoon. Seems we were sharing the facilities with a Gamma
Epsilon Yadda Yadda sorority convention. after some re-arranging,
everyone got settled in. Meanwhile it starts raining pretty good. Some
nap, some eat, but we all queue  up at 7:30 to bus it to Nemacolin. This
ride consists of Ray going down rte 40 or something, coming to rte 119
and going straight, according to directions, but facing a decision to go
left or right, East or West. He chose well this time. Rolling along we
approach a BIG hill, with beaucoup warning signs, and a guard rail that
doesn't look like it could constrain a shopping cart, let alone a bus.
Crawling up the hill, at walking speeds, we wondered who was going to
have to get out and push. Prayers of various denominations echo through
the bus.
Finally, we get to where we want to be, the driveway of Nemacolin.
Impressive is the word. New addition, HUGE entrance. You walk inside,
and there are these HUGE crystal chandeliers, must be 15 - 20 feet high,
way over head. 40 ft ceilings? Fluted columns on green marble bases. We
met our leader, start walking through the halls - paintings on the
walls. Lautrec? Picasso? Originals? YES - right out there to touch,
drool over. NO glass barriers, no showcases. Get as close as you want.
Then we start to come to the lamps. Floor lamps, table lamps. Sitting on
the floor. Perched atop a table. I don't know if I have ever seen a
real, documented Tiffany before, let alone touch one. But here we are,
close enough to smell it. Our resident expert, Joe Porcelli is
discussing the merits of this viburnium? laburniun? floor lamp.
Extolling the virtues of the hand made base. Looking under the shade,
cuz It looks like - YES plating - there was such a quality to he light,
I couldn't believe even Tiffany could get that effect. Well he did, by
using two layers of glass in spots, on the inside surface. There are (I
think) 7 lamps to ogle. Go a bit further down the hall, and there's a 3
section panel. a little further, there's a 'sun room, with this HUGE
overhead piece, which needs someone to lie on the floor to photograph
(yes, I did). This place is full of treasures, all in the open, with a
few exceptions. There was a vase under a 'bell jar', don't remember the
artist, but was quoted a value of US$ 7,000,000.00. Ouch.
The rest of the facility was great, there's a cigar bar, richly
furnished in leather couches and chairs, with a great list of Ports,
Brandies and Cognacs. all the way up to Louis XII, as $90 a snifter.
The buses were due to leave at 10, nd 11 pm. Good old Ray took the first
busload, while the rest of us wandered. The other bus started loading a
little later, with the crew rounding up stragglers. Back to the Holiday
inn. We get there, no Ray, or his bus. We go to the bar. The other
driver asks if we have seen the other passengers. Nope. Twenty minutes
later, they start coming in. It seems Ray went the wrong way (again),
and to add to the fun, decided to make a U-turn halfway down this same
mountain road, in the rain.Additional deities were petitioned.
So, it seems the straggler search party missed a few (right Lavergne?),
and good ol' Ray hd to make another trip up Bald mountain to retrieve
the missing sheep.
The next morning, we checked out, and boarded the buses again, off to
Falling Water. Ray took us some narrow counrty roads, and I wondered if
we were going to sit through one of his renowned U-turns again. But no,
we were actually going the right way. We arrived in the rain again.
Luckily, the waiting area to get on the tour is covered. We broke up
into seven groups, as they will only take groups of up to 15 at a time.
My group was last, so we wandered through the gift shop, and cafe, till
our number was called. You go through ths wooded path to get to the
house. The first view is incredible. Mr. Wright got it right. The house
seems to grow out of the earth. The tour starts in the common room, and
wends it's way upward to the bedrooms. The detail in design is amazing.
The tour guides are well informed, and very helpful. There were many
anecdotes about the disagreements between Wright, and the owner (pardon
me but I forgot the family name. I'm writing this at 3 am, waiting to go
to the airport. Car service not due to 4.)
A glass related factoid - there is an original Tiffany Lotus Lamp in the
house.
The building is in need of a major renovation. If you don't know what to
do with your tax return, think about making a donation to the Western
Pennsylvania Conservancy. You can earmark your donation to be channeled
to the house renovation.
The bus ride back to Allentown was uneventful but LOOOOOONG.
I think the people who arranged this trip deserve a BIG THANK YOU for
arranging this gig, and for perservereing through all the hiccups. One
person mentioned that ths was the first bus tour that he had been on
where he had to load his own luggage.
I don't think of this as being a bus tour, but an expedition by a group
of glass lovers that travelled by bus.
Many thanks to Charles, Marianne and Chris from W/C, Joe Porcelli, and
yes, even RAY. If they do this again, book your tickets early.  It's a
great trip with a bunch of great people.
PS, I'm getting brain dead. I promised to tell of the travails of
getting from Seattle to Allentown, but our long distance prize winner
will have to share that with you all.
PPS - I think W/C takes what they do a lot further than just running a
business- they give something back. The specials at the train station
were below what W/C could sell glass for, and even though their taking
people there prolly cost them business, they took them there anyway.
PPPS I don't do PS's
--
'Every (person) must decide whether to walk in the light of creative
altruism or the darkness of selfishness. This is the judgement. Life's
most persistent and urgent question is "What are you doing for
others?' "Rev. Dr. Martin Luther King Jr.


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From owner-glass Fri Apr 24 01:31:25 1998
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Subject: We're on Vacation
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 1998 03:41:01 -0400
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I'm leaving for a week in Aruba in a few hours, and have dropped from
the list while I'm gone. Be back on the air 5/4. so if you want me to
see something, send it directly to me, not the group I will reply when I
get back

--
'Every (person) must decide whether to walk in the light of creative
altruism or the darkness of selfishness. This is the judgement. Life's
most persistent and urgent question is "What are you doing for
others?' "Rev. Dr. Martin Luther King Jr.


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From owner-glass Fri Apr 24 07:25:47 1998
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: perfectionism
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 1998 09:57:33 -0400
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Daniel M. German wrote:
> 
> M Savad twistes the bytes to say:
> 
>  M> what it really boils down to is: how strong the foil is to the glass.
>  M> you can have a cubic yard of solder between joints, but the joint can
>  M> still fail due to the weakness of the grip of the foil. or if the joint
>  M> is strait and is allowed to flex, then it really does'nt matter how much
>  M> solder is in there, nor the foil grip.
> 
> I don't understand something...
> 
> If the solder surrounds the glass from each side (in a shape similar
> to a H came), why is the foil's glue important after the piece has
> been solder? The solder should serve as an enclosing and since it is
> sufficiently hard, this "came" does not bend easily.
> 
> --
> Daniel M. German                  "Cyberspace. A consensual hallucination
>                                    experienced daily by billions
>    William Gibson ->               of legitimate operators in every nation"
> http://csgwww.uwaterloo.ca/~dmg/home.html
> dmg@csg.uwaterloo.ca
> 
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


the solder does surround it, but it just keeps the foil in place. it's
like to boards glued together (to form a shelf). they can be strong, but
if you put a big tv on the seam it would eventually fail (if not
immediately). the only way the seam could hold the weight longer, would
be to but a frame around the shelf (like two strips of wood), it would
strengthen the shelf, the forces of the tv would be spread out on a
solid piece of wood. 

foil looks alot like came after it's been soldered, and like came, it
allows flexibility. this is why it's so important to do a very good job
foiling. it's what keeps the project together, you can have a lousy foil
job and still cover it in solder. but the project would probably fall
apart, because the foil let go. 

but if the glass is surrounded by more glass, and the seams don't line
up, then that will make the project stronger.... though currently we're
talking about windows here. 3-d stuff is generally much stronger.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
2-2-98 New Pages Added: 22 New Stained Glass Links, 7 New Projects Added
and My Updated Shop Photo's
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From owner-glass Fri Apr 24 09:53:39 1998
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From: "Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
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Subject: Re: Foil & Soldering
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Message text written by "Howard and Elaine Rubin"
>By the way, one has to figure
at least DOUBLE the labor for the replacement of the pieces as you have t=
o
TAKE OUT pieces before you can put pieces BACK IN! (but that is another
story).<

Bless you for being the person that finally gave me a
wonderfully simple, yet effective measure on how to
charge for repair!

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles, P.O.Box 903, Skippack, PA 19474-0903
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From owner-glass Fri Apr 24 16:38:07 1998
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Subject: RE: Foil & Soldering
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 1998 18:48:08 -0100
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Also, to add to this line.. I always tried to get the tightest fit =
between the glass pieces, that is why you use foil shears.. This line of =
conversations leads me to think that gaps between pieces are necesary.. =
What are your replies?.
Gloria

-----Original Message-----
From:	Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo [SMTP:Ensembles@compuserve.com]
Sent:	Thursday, April 23, 1998 6:48 PM
To:	Bungi
Subject:	Foil & Soldering

Message text written by "M. Savad"
>what it really boils down to is: how strong the foil is to the glass.
you can have a cubic yard of solder between joints, but the joint can
still fail due to the weakness of the grip of the foil. or if the joint
is strait and is allowed to flex, then it really does'nt matter how much
solder is in there, nor the foil grip.<

So...does this imply that a wider foil, say 1/4" makes a better
constructed solder channel than a 7/32" , since there is more
of the foil overlapped on top of the glass?  If this is true,
(which I suspect it is), then the question of strength versus
beauty comes into play.  For, to my mind, the thinner the
solder line (and the more glass showing), the better.  But this
may not be the best for long-term construction.

So...is there any sort of advice you can give on which width of
foil to use in which circumstance?  For instance, with Spectrum
Waterglass (a slightly thinner glass than normal), I prefer to use
3/16" or 7/32".  But with highly textured glass, the 1/4" is my
preferred.  Is there a size to be used for lamp construction versus
panel construction?  Or is it more just a function of how much
overlap is there on the top of the glass?

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles, P.O.Box 903, Skippack, PA 19474-0903
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From owner-glass Fri Apr 24 17:37:34 1998
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X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Foil & Soldering
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 1998 20:02:59 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr24.16259.0>
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Gloria & George wrote:
> 
> Also, to add to this line.. I always tried to get the tightest fit =
> between the glass pieces, that is why you use foil shears.. This line of =
> conversations leads me to think that gaps between pieces are necesary.. =
> What are your replies?.
> Gloria

whether there's gaps or not, the strength should be about the same. it's
mainly the foil holding power that's at stake. the only main difference
between a tight fitting panel and a loose one, is the loose on will be
heavier. more gaps, the more solder, the more weight, the more money.
gaps or no gaps, the main thing is the overall strength of the design.
you could use 3/8" foil, with 4" of solder in between, and the joint is
no stronger. becuase the weakest point is at the foil to glass line. 

if you were to make 2 squares and solder them together, it would most
likely bend at that seam regardles off solder/foil. but put a border
piece, or wire around the object an it will strengthen it quite a bit.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
2-2-98 New Pages Added: 22 New Stained Glass Links, 7 New Projects Added
and My Updated Shop Photo's
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From owner-glass Fri Apr 24 18:04:32 1998
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X-Path: az.stratus.com!charlie
From: Charles Spitzer <charlie@az.stratus.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: Re: Foil & Soldering
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 98 16:50:06 -0700
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References: <<1998Apr24.17488.0>>
Organization: Customer Assistance Center, Stratus Computer, Inc.
Precedence: bulk

You wrote:
> Also, to add to this line.. I always tried to get the tightest fit =
> between the glass pieces, that is why you use foil shears.. This line of =
> conversations leads me to think that gaps between pieces are necesary.. =
> What are your replies?.

the reason to use foil shears is so that patterns don't grow when you foil  
the glass, as there's some thickness to the 2 edges of foil multiplied by the  
number of foil lines across the panel.

i always thought that i was 'making' H shaped lead with the solder. if none  
gets between the pieces of glass, then one is depending upon the adhesive to  
hold it together (for panels). i somehow doubt that the adhesive is going to  
be ok after 30 years.

---
Charles Spitzer
charlie@az.stratus.com
Phoenix, AZ
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From owner-glass Fri Apr 24 18:38:55 1998
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Glass Lovers Weekend Pt1 (long)
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@pop3.nildram.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 25 Apr 1998 01:43:41 +0000
Message-ID: <199804250043.BAA16199@pluto.nildram.co.uk>
Precedence: bulk

Dear Bunginians,

I have enjoyed every single account of this trip, drooled at every 
detail, sat in the bus through all the u-turns with Ray, been green 
with envy, felt pretty sick at the  wonderful 
chance-in-a-lifetime-prices!!!
Thanks for sharing! Made my day!
Big round of applause to Charles and Marianne!! 
??  
 (Charles called it so very modestly "Bus Tour" in a e-mail to 
me). Thanks all for this cheery experience (albeit second-hand) in 
wet, rainy, soggy, muddy UK (wettest for 100 years, we are told!), 
where I have been glaring at a blown-up micro-wave (it just went 
BANG! and then the kitchen started to stink!!), tv that's gone 
"pphhhuittt", then dead;  hi-fi that's gone "kaputt" and I'm still 
smarting after the horrendeous car repair bill some weeks ago.
Crocodile tears in frustration over soldering I have made a real mess 
of (I wouldn't even allow my Beginners to get away with!!) .
Why ME???
Pick on someone your OWN size, You Up There!!!

Talking about Crocodiles... that's another story -  .. more to 
follow.... It's 10 feet long and 3 feet wide.....  (yeah, the story 
too :->  )
Take care!
Elisabeth 'n Toby (sporting his new Spring Hair-Cut!!)

----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
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From owner-glass Fri Apr 24 19:09:25 1998
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From: Stnglsgrn <Stnglsgrn@aol.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Foil & Soldering
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 1998 21:26:44 EDT
Message-ID: <1998Apr25.12644.0>
Precedence: bulk

It's always been my understanding the the adhesive was only to hold the foil
to the glass until the pieces where soldered together. It is the solder and
fit that gives foil projects there limited strength and  it is limited. For
shades I would think the dome shape adds more strength then the solder ever
could. With good soldering technique I don't think a foil joint could be made
tight enough so solder would not pass through. 
By the way craftsmen at Tiffany Studio's used bees wax to hold the foil to the
glass.
Don  
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From owner-glass Fri Apr 24 22:20:19 1998
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WE ARE EXCEPTIONALLY TIRED OF RECEIVING MESSAGES FOR YOU AT OUR
MAILBOX.....46 JUST THIS EVENING.  PLEASE RECTIFY THIS PROBLEM.

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From owner-glass Sat Apr 25 03:09:57 1998
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X-Path: juno.com!dodgestudio
From: dodgestudio@juno.com
To: morn@nac.net
Subject: Re: Foil & Soldering
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 1998 21:28:24 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr24.172824.0>
References: <<1998Apr24.17488.0>>>
Precedence: bulk

Mike, 

I'm really not trying to start a war, but if you take this to it's
logical conclusion, you could just tin over the tops of all of your foil
without building a bead at all and have a strong panel, just as long as
the foil has good glue.  In reality any stress on such a panel would tear
the foil and fail.  The metal mass is an important structural
consideration.  
Of course if  the glass pieces in your compostiton are small,  it takes
less metal thickness around each one to add up to adequate support.

Gary Dodge              Dodge Studio Designs

http://www.dodgestudio.com

On Fri, 24 Apr 1998 20:02:59 -0400 "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net> writes:
>Gloria & George wrote:
>> 
>> Also, to add to this line.. I always tried to get the tightest fit =
>> between the glass pieces, that is why you use foil shears.. This 
>line of =
>> conversations leads me to think that gaps between pieces are 
>necesary.. =
>> What are your replies?.
>> Gloria
>
>whether there's gaps or not, the strength should be about the same. 
>it's
>mainly the foil holding power that's at stake. the only main 
>difference
>between a tight fitting panel and a loose one, is the loose on will be
>heavier. more gaps, the more solder, the more weight, the more money.
>gaps or no gaps, the main thing is the overall strength of the design.
>you could use 3/8" foil, with 4" of solder in between, and the joint 
>is
>no stronger. becuase the weakest point is at the foil to glass line. 
>
>if you were to make 2 squares and solder them together, it would most
>likely bend at that seam regardles off solder/foil. but put a border
>piece, or wire around the object an it will strengthen it quite a bit.
>
>---Mike Savad
>
>-- 
>Mike's Stained Glass
>http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
>2-2-98 New Pages Added: 22 New Stained Glass Links, 7 New Projects 
>Added
>and My Updated Shop Photo's
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>

_____________________________________________________________________
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From owner-glass Sat Apr 25 03:19:38 1998
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X-Path: juno.com!dodgestudio
From: dodgestudio@juno.com
To: dmg@csg.uwaterloo.ca
Subject: Re: perfectionism
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 1998 21:21:22 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr24.172122.0>
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Daniel,

You are correct.  The "cames" formed by the copper foil method are
considerably stronger per unit mass than any pure lead came could ever
be.  There are some who push the limits of the materials by depending on
the adhesive of the foil for structural strength.  These works will not
stand up to the test of time.  If you have ever restored older foiled
works, often the adhesive is no longer sticky.  Had these pieces 
depended on that adhesive, there would be little left of them.

Gary Dodge              Dodge Studio Designs

http://www.dodgestudio.com


>
>I don't understand something...
>
>If the solder surrounds the glass from each side (in a shape similar
>to a H came), why is the foil's glue important after the piece has
>been solder? The solder should serve as an enclosing and since it is
>sufficiently hard, this "came" does not bend easily.
>
>
>
>--
>Daniel M. German                  "Cyberspace. A consensual 
>hallucination
>                                   experienced daily by billions
>   William Gibson ->               of legitimate operators in every 
>nation"
>http://csgwww.uwaterloo.ca/~dmg/home.html
>dmg@csg.uwaterloo.ca
>
> 
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>

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From owner-glass Sat Apr 25 09:46:58 1998
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X-Path: n-link.com!pkelly
From: pkelly <pkelly@n-link.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Subject: Bio# 14 Carol J. Rochnowski
Date: Sat, 25 Apr 1998 11:20:04 -0500
Message-ID: <1998Apr25.6204.0>
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Name:  Carol J. Rochnowski ( an absorbed lurker and faithful daily
reader who now has binders of ideas for reference from you all)

Home: Lake Stevens, WA.

Status: single, with cat (Hallie)
            middle aged in body (but don't know when I got here)
            but well in touch with my =93inner child=94

"Real Job": Assistant Vice President, Senior Financial Consultant,
Certified
Financial Planner at Merrill Lynch (17 years now in financial services
world)
I absolutely love working with my clients.  Most all of them have become
dear friends and have sat at the kitchen table at one time or another. I
know how much =93richer=94 their lives are having worked with me. It=92s =
heart
warming to be able to tell the 70yo widow that she can go to the Holy
Land on her dream trip.

Past Life:  Special Education Teacher and Elementary School Counselor
worked in that field for 20 years taught in Goose Bay, Labrador, Canada,
for two years and in Germany for another 12 years had midlife career
change (Totally Unplanned)

=93Real Description": Vertically and horizontially challenged,
Silver-haired, and Polish
  with quick self-deprecating humor

Pet Peeves: intolerance and small minds
(both of which I, of course, can be accused of at times)

Other Life Changes:  major health scare 2 years ago
Results: add more creative/right-brained activities to my daily life say
=93No=94 more took a stained glass class

More Results:  totally hooked on every aspect of the stained glass
process  I work slowly, not caring if it takes months to finish a
piece.Working on: 20" circular underwater fishes, turtle, and seaweed
scene for a young friend's graduation gift
Also working on: cleaning downstairs from broken water heater  sodden
books, tax files, Christmas decorations, family photos

Also calling my name: pulling weeds remodeling plans plans for a trip on
the coastal steamer in Norway in Sept . Thinking about: my first lamp
project (coming up next)
Wondering: why it is impossible for me to "do a pattern/recipe/plan"
without immediately thinking about how I could change it.

 How it is I got to the age when my peers (and dear friends) are dying

Other Passions:  reading every night (nightstand has on it as I write
this =96 Cloister Walk, Life+Death in Shanghai, Talk Before Sleep,
Paradise, Just a Corpse at Twilight, A Woman=92s World =96 Tales of Life =
on
the Road

Playing/working on my computers =96 although I think they can be great
time bandits, I do love the time I spend on them.   (I am a surfer, a
lurker, but not a game player.)
Amazed at: how many neato-ka-cheato folks there are in the world how I
tend to forget that when we are bombarded with all the news about the
stinkers

Thanks to: you all for coming up with the bio idea
Patrick for making it possible

Carol


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From owner-glass Sat Apr 25 09:59:39 1998
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To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Bio#15 Wayne Munro
Date: Sat, 25 Apr 1998 11:30:42 -0500
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I am not really sure where to start with this, so I will start from the
beginning and work up and everyone can delete what they don't want.

I was born and raised in the beautiful Comox Valley, on Vancouver Island
on
the beautiful west coast of Canada on May 18, 1950. (That makes me 29!)
I
started grade 1 here in the Valley and at the age of 7, moved to Knight
Inlet on the West Coast to live where my father was employed as a Faller
in
the Forest Industry. There were not many people there, only the one's
that
worked there. Maybe 20 people at most. Only 1 other person sorta my age
to
play with. Worked out good tho, (Except having your mother as  your
teacher--couldn't lie about 'what went on at school that day!) as I took

correspondence for schooling for the next 5 years before moving to
another
logging camp farther up the coast in Smith/ Rivers Inlet. There at the
age
of 12--13, was where I learned the 'finer' things in life. Again, only
one
other person my age---'Fuzzy'. There we would work on weekends fueling
machines etc. to earn money. (About $11.00 a day if I remember right). I

spent my money on the normal things kids spent there money on, guns,
boat,
etc. (The nearest store was 300 miles away.) That was my pride and
joy---a
12 foot Sangstercraft boat with a 45 West Bend outboard!! The outboard
was
definitly too big for the boat as my Dad couldn't use it as it would
fill
with water when he went to start it because of the weight of the motor.
Didn't have to worry about outrunning the killer whales with that
puppy!!
(That's another story)

The boss also had a airplane. (Cessna 172 on floats) We lived on a float

camp) and that was where I developed my love of flying. I was his 'chief

fueler-upper'. We used to drive my mother nuts! I, sitting there doing
my
school work and he would come banging on the kitchen door to get me to
help
with fuel-up, next thing we knew, we would have to 'head out in the
plane to
'do stuff'. My mother watching out the window as we disappeared.  Seems
to
me, didn't get much school work done!

Grade 7 took me to Vancouver B.C. to Va ncouver Tech to 'continue my
education'. I stayed with my Aunt and Uncle and went to school. Well,
that
lasted 1 whole year! Just didn't like the city--no boat -- nothing!
Hardly
worth going there!! Back to camp and correspondence for grade 8. And
then
Grade 9-- Went to Ocean Falls. 1963/1964. For those of you that
remember,
that was when the 'big' landslide came down. Most people were at the
basketball game, casualties were minimum. That wasn't the only disaster
to
happen that year! Didn't like the school, the people I lived with,
(Couldn't
handle pancakes 3 times a day!!!) Learned to smoke cigarettes, and
yep--you
guessed it--NO BOAT!! God had obviously meant for people to go fishing/
hunting etc. when they felt like it--not 'on a goofy schedule or 'when
they
were allowed'!!) Hence--my second year of grade 9, I took in Cumberland
B.C.
(The famous coal mining area of the early 1900's. (My family had moved
to
the Valley by then) After completing grade 10, I left school and went to

work in the forest industry. I have worked all my life in that industry
and
have done the 'rigging' jobs as well as drive logging truck and run log
loader.
I learned to fly in 1976 and continued to enjoy that pastime until 1990,

when the local flying club moved out of the area. This was a political
move
and it made me mad so I never flew again---sure showed them!  (Now I am
not
healthy enough to hold my license, so I can just 'look up and dream'!
Most of the time, we moved from camp to camp just because you got bored.

(There were hundreds of jobs back then and you just had to show up at a
worksite and start work---one was never out of work unless I wanted to
be. I
have been  a member and involved in the IWA union since I started in the

industry. (That makes me a member for 34 years. (Looking forward to that

pension!) I have spent the past 18 years as an officer holding many
positions from recording secretary to 2nd and 3rd Vice-president. (I
left
them positions in December of last year because of health reasons) and
now
will go back to logging in Gold River where I have been for the past 28
years, as soon as health allows it.

I am married with 4 children....all girls! (GOD!!!) Oldest one is 30 and

lives in Radium B.C. next one is 26 and lives in MacKenzie B.C. #3 is
presently in Psych. Nursing in Capilano College in Vancouver, while #4
is
here in Courtenay expecting their 1st child any day. (Her other
occupation
is driving me nuts--and she should get more money as she is real good at
her
job!) I have 4 +(1/2) grandchilden. The best part of grandchildren is
you
can send them home when they start to bug you. My wife says that if she
would of known that grand kids were so much fun, she would of had them
first!

OH yeh...glass...I have always enjoyed stained glass. I have done a
large
number of hobbies, Woodworking (which I still do) model R/C Planes, Oil
Painting, raced stock cars, rug weaving. Never really stuck with
anything
too long. However, I was off work one winter, 3 years ago, when I went
into
a local stained glass shop. Well, I convinced myself that was the thing
to
do. I worked away and on the road, so I was unable to take lessons, so I

learned from the books I could find and from asking questions at the
local
glass shop. (They were real good considering I never could get to take
any
of the courses they put on). I now enjoy doing mostly clocks, lamps and
mirror panels. I am starting to teach myself etching and sandcarving
from
Norm Dobbins videos. It is going OK, but I am 1 tape short!! (More on
this
to the group later if they don't get me a replacement!)

I had a heart attack in April of last year which kinda slowed me down a
bit.
The doctors here said it was a minor blockage and diet etc. would fix it
up.
Low and behold, I had another MI in January 98. I ended up with another
doctor who sent me to Victoria where the specialists are, and they found
3
totally blocked arteries!! Well they kept me there and did triple bypass
on
Feb. 4. I am still a bit sore, but am on the mend. I am just getting
back
into my glass now and am starting an overhead lamp. A friend wants a
oval
door so I will be back at it soon.

I also enjoy camping (27 foot motorhome) and fishing. Most of the time
only
salmon although trout fishing is good here too. The first 'big' camping
trip
is Easter--looking forward to it.


Wayne Munro 'Snail mail' address
2960 Suffield Road,
Courtenay, B.C. Canada   V9N-3V5

ICQ # 2762376
Phone and Fax-- (250) 338-5507
 "Call before sending a fax so setup is complete"

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From owner-glass Sat Apr 25 13:14:59 1998
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X-Path: aol.com!Mosfunland
From: Mosfunland <Mosfunland@aol.com>
To: Glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Its Alison
Date: Sat, 25 Apr 1998 15:36:05 EDT
Message-ID: <1998Apr25.19365.0>
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I haven't seen my friend Alison on line in our glass room, nor has she emptied
her mail box which is full, I haven't seen any posts on bungi either.  Has
anyone on the list heard from her, if so, please respond privately to me, I
don't want to bog down the list with replies...  
Maureen
mosfunland@aol.com
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From owner-glass Sat Apr 25 13:33:33 1998
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X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Foil & Soldering
Date: Sat, 25 Apr 1998 14:00:47 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr25.10047.0>
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Stnglsgrn wrote:
> 
> It's always been my understanding the the adhesive was only to hold the foil
> to the glass until the pieces where soldered together. It is the solder and
> fit that gives foil projects there limited strength and  it is limited. For
> shades I would think the dome shape adds more strength then the solder ever
> could. With good soldering technique I don't think a foil joint could be made
> tight enough so solder would not pass through.
> By the way craftsmen at Tiffany Studio's used bees wax to hold the foil to the
> glass.
> Don
> ----


i though he used bees wax to hold the glass to the glass easel for
plating placement.

primarily it's all based on the design of your project. i think when
tiffany made up the foil method, it did'nt come sticky. even as a
professional you'll have some gaps. though the most important thing to
prevent 'fall apart' is a well designed project. what i'm curious is,
does the sunlight help bake the glue onto the glass? the soldering iron
melt's it took quickly and it burns. but the sunlight (i guess), help
secure it better? kind of like sticky tar tabs on roof shingles... just
a thought anyway.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
2-2-98 New Pages Added: 22 New Stained Glass Links, 7 New Projects Added
and My Updated Shop Photo's
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From owner-glass Sat Apr 25 13:46:09 1998
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: dodgestudio@juno.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Foil & Soldering
Date: Sat, 25 Apr 1998 14:06:34 -0400
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dodgestudio@juno.com wrote:
> 
> Mike,
> 
> I'm really not trying to start a war, but if you take this to it's
> logical conclusion, you could just tin over the tops of all of your foil
> without building a bead at all and have a strong panel, just as long as
> the foil has good glue.  In reality any stress on such a panel would tear
> the foil and fail.  The metal mass is an important structural
> consideration.
> Of course if  the glass pieces in your compostiton are small,  it takes
> less metal thickness around each one to add up to adequate support.
> 
> Gary Dodge              Dodge Studio Designs
> 
> http://www.dodgestudio.com
> 
> On Fri, 24 Apr 1998 20:02:59 -0400 "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net> writes:
> >Gloria & George wrote:
> >>
> >> Also, to add to this line.. I always tried to get the tightest fit =
> >> between the glass pieces, that is why you use foil shears.. This
> >line of =
> >> conversations leads me to think that gaps between pieces are
> >necesary.. =
> >> What are your replies?.
> >> Gloria
> >
> >whether there's gaps or not, the strength should be about the same.
> >it's
> >mainly the foil holding power that's at stake. the only main
> >difference
> >between a tight fitting panel and a loose one, is the loose on will be
> >heavier. more gaps, the more solder, the more weight, the more money.
> >gaps or no gaps, the main thing is the overall strength of the design.
> >you could use 3/8" foil, with 4" of solder in between, and the joint
> >is
> >no stronger. becuase the weakest point is at the foil to glass line.
> >
> >if you were to make 2 squares and solder them together, it would most
> >likely bend at that seam regardles off solder/foil. but put a border
> >piece, or wire around the object an it will strengthen it quite a bit.
> >
> >---Mike Savad


oh i'm not starting a war, it's hard to emphasize (sp?) or not, in
e-mail... it's both metal mass and foil and design that are all
important. a flat soldered panel is much weaker then a beaded panel.
some of the flex is absorbed into the beads. though if it's a weak point
it would flex and break off regardless of how much foil/solder is used.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
2-2-98 New Pages Added: 22 New Stained Glass Links, 7 New Projects Added
and My Updated Shop Photo's
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From owner-glass Sat Apr 25 21:57:01 1998
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X-Path: ppp10.uwaterloo.ca!dmg
From: "Daniel M. German" <dmg@csg.uwaterloo.ca>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain;  charset=iso-8859-1
Subject: Re: Foil & Soldering
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 00:35:12 -0400
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M Savad twistes the bytes to say:


 M> oh i'm not starting a war, it's hard to emphasize (sp?) or not, in
 M> e-mail... it's both metal mass and foil and design that are all
 M> important. a flat soldered panel is much weaker then a beaded panel.
 M> some of the flex is absorbed into the beads. though if it's a weak point
 M> it would flex and break off regardless of how much foil/solder is used.

(I am going to say plenty of things that probably most of you already
know, so please bear with me)

Yes, Mike, it is metal mass and foil. But the stickiness of the foil
should not be a factor. And you're also right that design is
important.

The glass does not bend. If the window is exposed to stress, it will
tend to bend in the seam. If the seem runs from side to side of the
window, it will naturally break in it; or at least, bend. 

There is also a point in which the strength of a solder seam is
maximized (depending on factors such as length of the seam, distance
between glass, tightness, and distance that it reaches above the
glass):

For instance, if the seam is too wide, it will be weak, if it is too
narrow, it will also be weak. The most important factor seems to be
the characteristics of the bead. The bead gives structural strength to
the seam because it tends to avoid that the glass moves in an axis
perpendicular to the seam. If the seam is too bulky, then it adds
extra weight to itself and makes it non-optimal.  The bead is not only
aesthetic purposes, it is to make the flat part of the H round and to
increase its strength. The foil determines its characteristics. We
have learnt that good fooling  is the key to resistent panels. Why?
Because it determines the size of the seam and second because a
uniform foil --without breaks-- makes a uniform seam. A break in the
foil means a break in the seam and it makes it less strong.

My belief is that a tight fit between the foil and the glass is very
important to achieve a tight fit between the solder and the glass. THe
tighter the fit the more monolithical the work will become. And a very
important, and often forgotten part --from my instructors point of
view-- is to bead the exterior of the work. A good, solid bead will
give it a tight surrounding, with no space for the glass to move and
to overstress any seam, specially if the work is a sun catcher, that
has no place to stand in order to support the weight of the glass. A
framed window panel will greatly gain structurally from the frame,
where is can support "its own weight". The same happens with panels
that are surrounded by zinc came. THe came is more difficult to bend
than the solder, leaving a more resistant panel than with plain
solder.

Otherwise the design is depending on the effectiveness of the
glue --as it was pointed out before-- and that seems to be too
dangerous.

Somebody mentioned in a private mail that she had learned the
importance of the glue when she washed the work and the pieces started
to fall apart. I wonder if it was a lack of a good surrounding bead
that created this problem.

The solder should have a threshold point in which it can not withstand
any more stress --as any other material does. THe solder is malleable
as we very well know and therefore there is a limit that we have to
observe in order to create "resistant" panels. 

I guess that knowing this limit comes with years of experience and
good judgment. A good, experienced artisan knows when a project is
getting into "dangerous" territories and suggests modifications.

Think about it as cathedral building. For years many were built --and
many collapsed. BUt the good architects were the ones that turn the
beauties that we can still admire. I am sure there is math that can
solve our --my?-- questions, but wonder if somebody has taken the time
to investigate the issue. 


I tried to find some information on the subject in our library, but I
was not lucky to find any.





 M> ---Mike Savad

 M> -- 
 M> Mike's Stained Glass
 M> http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
 M> 2-2-98 New Pages Added: 22 New Stained Glass Links, 7 New Projects Added
 M> and My Updated Shop Photo's
 M> ----
 M> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
 M> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
 M> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


--
Daniel M. German                  "In science, read, by preference, 
                                   the newest works; in literature,
   Georges Leclerc Buffon ->       the oldest."
http://csgwww.uwaterloo.ca/~dmg/home.html
dmg@csg.uwaterloo.ca

 
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From owner-glass Sat Apr 25 22:27:37 1998
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From: "Daniel M. German" <dmg@csg.uwaterloo.ca>
To: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
Content-Type: text/plain;  charset=iso-8859-1
Subject: Re: perfectionism
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 00:43:33 -0400
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M Savad twistes the bytes to say:

 M> the solder does surround it, but it just keeps the foil in place. it's
 M> like to boards glued together (to form a shelf). they can be strong, but
 M> if you put a big tv on the seam it would eventually fail (if not
 M> immediately). the only way the seam could hold the weight longer, would
 M> be to but a frame around the shelf (like two strips of wood), it would
 M> strengthen the shelf, the forces of the tv would be spread out on a
 M> solid piece of wood. 

As any good woodworker will tell you: the a well glued joint is
stronger than the grain of most woods. The shelf will break along the
grain but not along the joint.

I understand your analogy. Thought it is not totally adequate. glass
is beaded, adding strength is all directions. It will break, but it
will break easier if it does not have a bead at all. 

 M> foil looks alot like came after it's been soldered, and like came, it
 M> allows flexibility. this is why it's so important to do a very good job
 M> foiling. it's what keeps the project together, you can have a lousy foil
 M> job and still cover it in solder. but the project would probably fall
 M> apart, because the foil let go. 

Yeap.

 M> but if the glass is surrounded by more glass, and the seams don't line
 M> up, then that will make the project stronger.... though currently we're

totally agreed.

 M> talking about windows here. 3-d stuff is generally much stronger.



--
Daniel M. German                  "The first man of science was he who
                                   looked into a thing, not to learn
                                   whether it furnished him with food, or
                                   shelter, or weapons, or tools, or
                                   armaments, or playwiths; but who sought
                                   to know it for the gratification of
   Samuel Taylor Coleridge ->      knowing."
http://csgwww.uwaterloo.ca/~dmg/home.html
dmg@csg.uwaterloo.ca

 
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From owner-glass Sun Apr 26 00:07:47 1998
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From: "Howard and Elaine Rubin" <weaver51@teleport.com>
To: "glass@ bungie.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Carol Rochnowski
Date: Sat, 25 Apr 1998 22:22:22 -0700
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Hi Carol, 

did not have an address to send to privately, so...........

e-mail me, some of your bio intrigued me.

enjoy,H
weaver51@teleport.com
http://www.teleport.com/~cbs/howard
enmeshed in the internet
trapped in the world wide web


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From owner-glass Sun Apr 26 07:40:05 1998
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X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: perfectionism
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 09:48:16 -0400
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Daniel M. German wrote:
> 
> M Savad twistes the bytes to say:
> 
>  M> the solder does surround it, but it just keeps the foil in place. it's
>  M> like to boards glued together (to form a shelf). they can be strong, but
>  M> if you put a big tv on the seam it would eventually fail (if not
>  M> immediately). the only way the seam could hold the weight longer, would
>  M> be to but a frame around the shelf (like two strips of wood), it would
>  M> strengthen the shelf, the forces of the tv would be spread out on a
>  M> solid piece of wood.
> 
> As any good woodworker will tell you: the a well glued joint is
> stronger than the grain of most woods. The shelf will break along the
> grain but not along the joint.
> 
> I understand your analogy. Thought it is not totally adequate. glass
> is beaded, adding strength is all directions. It will break, but it
> will break easier if it does not have a bead at all.
> 
>  M> foil looks alot like came after it's been soldered, and like came, it
>  M> allows flexibility. this is why it's so important to do a very good job
>  M> foiling. it's what keeps the project together, you can have a lousy foil
>  M> job and still cover it in solder. but the project would probably fall
>  M> apart, because the foil let go.
> 
> Yeap.
> 
>  M> but if the glass is surrounded by more glass, and the seams don't line
>  M> up, then that will make the project stronger.... though currently we're
> 
> totally agreed.
> 
>  M> talking about windows here. 3-d stuff is generally much stronger.
> 

actually i thought of a better anology. a checkerboard design will fail
becuase the lines go straight across the panel and there is'nt anything
from keeping it to bend. a flower (petals around a center), is far
stonger if you go to bend it, you'll be fighting against all the other
pieces, where as the checker board, will bend off at the solder
line/foil line.

---Mike Savad




-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
2-2-98 New Pages Added: 22 New Stained Glass Links, 7 New Projects Added
and My Updated Shop Photo's
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From owner-glass Sun Apr 26 11:14:48 1998
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From: "Robert E. Jones" <rejones@CapAccess.org>
To: "Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Dale Tiffany, Inc. anyone?
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 13:37:51 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <1998Apr26.93751.0>
References: <<1998Apr23.13546.0>>
Precedence: bulk

On Thu, 23 Apr 1998, Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo wrote:

> which has a brass plate inscribed "Dale Tiffany, Inc."
> soldered to the inside of the lampshade.  Can anyone
> tell me something about the Dale Tiffany, Inc. company?

They do LL Bean's stained glass.  I have seen these at their outlet in 
Rehobeth Beach, DE.  Mostly prairie design for LL Bean.

OK quality, but nothing to get excited about.


On a related note, in an antique and collectible store near where I work, 
there is a glass panel of foil construction.  It measures about 2.5 ft by 
3.5 ft.  Geometric pattern with a very old wood frame about.  The glass 
is definitely rolled, but the solder appears to have some wear on it.  
They are asking $350 for it.  The strange thing is, they are advertising 
it as an original Tiffany.  I asked about this and they "assured" me that 
it was in fact a Louis Comfort Tiffany piece.  When I told them that it 
would be worth substantially more they said they can't even get $350 for it.

I then asked if they could prove that it was an original Tiffany, they 
said I would have to talk to the person who had it on consignment.  So I 
did.  He said he bought it at an estate auction with about 100 other 
pieces of stained glass work and was told that most were from a 
collection of original Tiffanys, but he never had anything appraised or 
anthenicated.

Never believe what you  you are told>


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From owner-glass Sun Apr 26 14:48:24 1998
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X-Path: cornell.edu!bjs10
From: Barbara <bjs10@cornell.edu>
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Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Corning Was -Re: youg. tour
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 16:29:50 -0400
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References: <<199804222329.TAA23945@uz.ComCAT.COM>>
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Hi Dorothy....
	I work at Cornell..... lots of stained glass here, especially worth the
visit is Sage Chapel, it is breathtaking.    
	The gorges are really gorgeous, especially in the spring.  Ithaca has
changed considerable in the past 30 years.....  but still centrally
isolated upstate NY.  I am sure you would enjoy a visit,  Cornell, Cayuga
Lake, the parks, the Wine Trail.   If you do decide to come to Ithaca, be
sure to let me know.... I would love to show you around,,,
	Where are you living now?


At 07:30 PM 4/23/98 -0400, Family Account wrote:
>However, I lived on the outskirts of Ithaca as a child (went to school in
>Freeville), and I kind of want to go back and see if the real gorges are as
>"gorgeous" (Could I resist?) as I remember from over 30 years ago.  Gee,
maybe
>there's stained glass windows in some of the old Cornell buildings...
>
>Dorothy K
>

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From owner-glass Sun Apr 26 16:54:02 1998
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To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Tiffany
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 19:18:19 EDT
Message-ID: <1998Apr26.231819.0>
Precedence: bulk

<<On a related note, in an antique and collectible store near where I work, 
there is a glass panel of foil construction.  It measures about 2.5 ft by 
3.5 ft.  Geometric pattern with a very old wood frame about.  The glass 
is definitely rolled, but the solder appears to have some wear on it.  
They are asking $350 for it.  The strange thing is, they are advertising 
it as an original Tiffany.  I asked about this and they "assured" me that 
it was in fact a Louis Comfort Tiffany piece.  When I told them that it 
would be worth substantially more they said they can't even get $350 for it.

I then asked if they could prove that it was an original Tiffany, they 
said I would have to talk to the person who had it on consignment.  So I 
did.  He said he bought it at an estate auction with about 100 other 
pieces of stained glass work and was told that most were from a 
collection of original Tiffanys, but he never had anything appraised or 
anthenicated.

Never believe what you  you are told>>>

 Talking about Tiffany originals..
  The other night,on the home and garden channel, they had a program called
Antique Road Show. This is a show where people bring in all kinds of antiques
to get info and apprasels. Two ladies brought in this beautiful stained glass
lamp that had been in their family for eons. Turns out it was a genuine
Tiffany. The shade had a fish pattern on it. Never saw one like it before. The
appraser said it was worth about 
$ 100,000.  They about passed out, they had no idea what they had.
     I could just imagine this lamp at their house, sitting on a small rickity
table with one leg supported by a book ! Sometimes you just never know what
you have.

Susan
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From owner-glass Sun Apr 26 18:23:20 1998
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From: Stnglsgrn <Stnglsgrn@aol.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Tiffany
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 20:43:49 EDT
Message-ID: <1998Apr27.04349.0>
Precedence: bulk

A church in my area is closing. They have a Tiffany window VALUED at $500,000.
They would gladly sell it $200,000 if  they could only find a buyer. And they
have looked. Unfortunately value and selling price are two different things. 
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From owner-glass Sun Apr 26 19:30:09 1998
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X-Path: juno.com!dodgestudio
From: dodgestudio@juno.com
To: morn@nac.net
Subject: Re: Foil & Soldering
Date: Sat, 25 Apr 1998 23:12:25 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr25.191225.0>
References: <<1998Apr25.12644.0>>>
Precedence: bulk

Mike,

I don't know if this will add any information that will answer your
question, but at least as a point of interest........ I used to work for
a real old timer way back when, (circa 1973).  He still had (and gave me,
some of which I still have)  6" wide rolls of fairly heavy weight foil
from the old days before the stained glass people discovered the adhesive
backed foil that was originally made for electrical shielding. 

He used to paint an adhesive from a formula of his own, onto the back of
the foil and cut strips out to foil with.  I think this stuff had a
fairly short sticky life to it and probably did have some bees wax and
turpentine, etc.

Gary Dodge              Dodge Studio Designs

http://www.dodgestudio.com

On Sat, 25 Apr 1998 14:00:47 -0400 "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net> writes:
>Stnglsgrn wrote:
>> 
>> It's always been my understanding the the adhesive was only to hold 
>the foil
>> to the glass until the pieces where soldered together. It is the 
>solder and
>> fit that gives foil projects there limited strength and  it is 
>limited. For
>> shades I would think the dome shape adds more strength then the 
>solder ever
>> could. With good soldering technique I don't think a foil joint 
>could be made
>> tight enough so solder would not pass through.
>> By the way craftsmen at Tiffany Studio's used bees wax to hold the 
>foil to the
>> glass.
>> Don
>> ----
>
>
>i though he used bees wax to hold the glass to the glass easel for
>plating placement.
>
>primarily it's all based on the design of your project. i think when
>tiffany made up the foil method, it did'nt come sticky. even as a
>professional you'll have some gaps. though the most important thing to
>prevent 'fall apart' is a well designed project. what i'm curious is,
>does the sunlight help bake the glue onto the glass? the soldering 
>iron
>melt's it took quickly and it burns. but the sunlight (i guess), help
>secure it better? kind of like sticky tar tabs on roof shingles... 
>just
>a thought anyway.
>
>---Mike Savad
>

_____________________________________________________________________
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From owner-glass Sun Apr 26 19:56:58 1998
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From: fibers@wcnet.net (fibers)
To: "glass@ bungie.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: glue chip
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 21:18:43 -0500
Message-ID: <1998Apr26.161843.0>
Precedence: bulk

I have a problem, can't decide which way is right.
I am working on an inset for a cabinet door using two diamond and one
oval bevel, surrounded with clear glue chip. I am in a quandry trying to
decide which side of the glue chip should be on the outside. The
housewife in me says it should be the smooth side since that will be
eaiser to keep clean. ( The door will be located near a cook top) Whot
would you do?
Nelda

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From owner-glass Sun Apr 26 20:54:16 1998
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X-Path: slonet.org!edupjohn
From: "Peggy W. Johnsen" <edupjohn@slonet.org>
To: Stnglsgrn <Stnglsgrn@aol.com>
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Tiffany
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 20:23:55 -0700 (PDT)
Message-ID: <1998Apr26.132355.0>
References: <<1998Apr27.04349.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Where are you located? and What size is the Tiffany Window.  May be
worthwhile to check this out if it truly a Tiffany built window.  Peggy

On Sun, 26 Apr 1998, Stnglsgrn wrote:

> A church in my area is closing. They have a Tiffany window VALUED at $500,000.
> They would gladly sell it $200,000 if  they could only find a buyer. And they
> have looked. Unfortunately value and selling price are two different things. 
> ----
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> 

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From owner-glass Sun Apr 26 21:08:59 1998
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From: CWWSLW <CWWSLW@aol.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: glue chip
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 23:35:19 EDT
Message-ID: <1998Apr27.33519.0>
Precedence: bulk

Well, from one housewife (domestic engineer) to another.. I wouldn't think
that it would make a big difference which side you put facing out.  Isn't the
other side just smooth? Would that not cause a glare from your kitchen light?
I don't think the gluechip would be that much harder to clean... So, my vote
is gluechip side facing out.

Susan
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From owner-glass Sun Apr 26 21:28:06 1998
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From: "Peggy W. Johnsen" <edupjohn@slonet.org>
To: fibers <fibers@wcnet.net>
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: glue chip
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 20:49:25 -0700 (PDT)
Message-ID: <1998Apr26.134925.0>
References: <<1998Apr26.161843.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Definitely smooth side of glue chip on the outside...makes for easier
cleaning.  Peggy

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From owner-glass Sun Apr 26 21:43:32 1998
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From: Karina <karinal@lisnet.net>
To: fibers <fibers@wcnet.net>, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="------------42266566E29BE395A7A03985"
Subject: Re: glue chip
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 00:02:25 -0400
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--------------42266566E29BE395A7A03985
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit



fibers wrote:

> I have a problem, can't decide which way is right.
> I am working on an inset for a cabinet door using two diamond and one
> oval bevel, surrounded with clear glue chip. I am in a quandry trying to
> decide which side of the glue chip should be on the outside. The
> housewife in me says it should be the smooth side since that will be
> eaiser to keep clean. ( The door will be located near a cook top) Whot
> would you do?
> Nelda
>
>

Always keep the smoooth side of  any glass you use on the outside when
dealing with kitchen cabinets...I go by that rule....much easier to
clean...also keep in mind what you have inside your cabinet when using glass
like that. Do you want ppl to see inside?...do you have a light
installed?..... a lot to think about when using clear glue chip in kitchen
cabinets.....Karina

--------------42266566E29BE395A7A03985
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<HTML>
&nbsp;

<P>fibers wrote:
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE>I have a problem, can't decide which way is right.
<BR>I am working on an inset for a cabinet door using two diamond and one
<BR>oval bevel, surrounded with clear glue chip. I am in a quandry trying
to
<BR>decide which side of the glue chip should be on the outside. The
<BR>housewife in me says it should be the smooth side since that will be
<BR>eaiser to keep clean. ( The door will be located near a cook top) Whot
<BR>would you do?
<BR>Nelda
<BR>&nbsp;
<BR><A HREF="http://www.bungi.com/glass"></A>&nbsp;</BLOCKQUOTE>
Always keep the smoooth side of&nbsp; any glass you use on the outside
when dealing with kitchen cabinets...I go by that rule....much easier to
clean...also keep in mind what you have inside your cabinet when using
glass like that. Do you want ppl to see inside?...do you have a light installed?.....
a lot to think about when using clear glue chip in kitchen cabinets.....Karina&nbsp;</HTML>

--------------42266566E29BE395A7A03985--

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From owner-glass Sun Apr 26 22:11:08 1998
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X-Path: prodigy.com!YWAH36A
From: YWAH36A@prodigy.com ( BOB   DUCHESNEAU)
To: glass@bungi.com, rejones@CapAccess.org
Subject: Re: Dale Tiffany, Inc. anyone?
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 00:37:10, -0500
Message-ID: <199804270437.AAA13924@mime3.prodigy.com>
Precedence: bulk

>On a related note, in an antique and collectible store near where I 
work, 
there is a glass panel of foil construction.  It measures about 2.5 
ft by 
3.5 ft.  Geometric pattern with a very old wood frame about.  The 
glass 
is definitely rolled, but the solder appears to have some wear on it. 
 
They are asking $350 for it.  The strange thing is, they are 
advertising 
it as an original Tiffany.  I asked about this and they "assured" me 
that 
it was in fact a Louis Comfort Tiffany piece.  When I told them that 
it 
would be worth substantially more they said they can't even get $350 
for it.<

Tiffany windows were done in lead to the best of my knowledge. Foil 
was for lamps. Bob

____
Bob Duchesneau Mountain Meadow Stained Glass, Escondido, CA, 92026 
*Capt'n! The spellchecker kinna take this abuse!*
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From owner-glass Sun Apr 26 22:11:09 1998
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From: "Daniel M. German" <dmg@csg.uwaterloo.ca>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain;  charset=iso-8859-1
Subject: Re: Tiffany
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 00:46:29 -0400
Message-ID: <199804270446.AAA00933@ppp11.uwaterloo.ca>
References: <<1998Apr27.04349.0>>
Precedence: bulk


Stnglsgrn  twistes the bytes to say:

 Stnglsgrn> A church in my area is closing. They have a Tiffany window VALUED at $500,000.
 Stnglsgrn> They would gladly sell it $200,000 if  they could only find a buyer. And they

How an antique can be prized at a value bigger than what people are
willing to pay for it (and certainly above its manufacturing cost)
beats me. 


--
Daniel M. German
http://csgwww.uwaterloo.ca/~dmg/home.html
dmg@csg.uwaterloo.ca

 
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From owner-glass Mon Apr 27 02:34:08 1998
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From: Rick Lasita <pebble@fuse.net>
To: CWWSLW <CWWSLW@aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: glue chip
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 04:55:13 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr27.05513.0>
References: <<1998Apr27.33519.0>>
Organization: Window Art GLass Studio
Precedence: bulk

I agree. I think the panel would look much nicer chip side out.

Rick
http://home.fuse.net/crafts/index.html
updated 4/18/98
> 
> CWWSLW wrote: 
> I don't think the gluechip would be that much harder to clean... So, my vote
> is gluechip side facing out.
> 
> Susan
> ----
>
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From owner-glass Mon Apr 27 03:59:29 1998
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From: Hi imLaura <HiimLaura@aol.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Glass on Antiques Roadshow
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 06:37:12 EDT
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For anyone who is interested, Antiques Roadshow has a webpage. The address is:
          
        http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/pages/roadshow/

On the webpage go to "Appraise it Yourself." Here you will find the
aforementioned lamp, and you can go through a series of quesions that you
answer to determine it's authenticity and value: fun and interesting.

Laura P (AR junkie)
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From owner-glass Mon Apr 27 04:31:20 1998
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From: "Laurean E. Clover" <vlclover@rconnect.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: glue chip
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 05:47:42 -0700
Message-ID: <1998Apr26.224742.0>
References: <<1998Apr27.05513.0>>
Organization: Lone Tree Homeschool
Precedence: bulk

I have a panel hanging in my kitchen that has glue chip in it.
I have had things splash up onto it, kids pressing their dirty
noses to it, and a fly squashed on it (which gave this mom a heart
attack!).  No problems cleaning it.

In all fairness, I have to say it is about twelve feet away from
my stove.  I would think if you have a vent over your stove, it
might not be a problem.

Laurean


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From owner-glass Mon Apr 27 06:30:06 1998
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Subject: remove
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 08:57:33 -0400
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Please remove my name temorarily from this list.
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From owner-glass Mon Apr 27 07:24:09 1998
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From: "Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: glue chip
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 09:44:10 -0400
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Message text written by Nelda:
>I am working on an inset for a cabinet door using two diamond and one
oval bevel, surrounded with clear glue chip. I am in a quandry trying to
decide which side of the glue chip should be on the outside. The
housewife in me says it should be the smooth side since that will be
eaiser to keep clean. ( The door will be located near a cook top) Whot
would you do?<

Smooth side out.

Christie A. Wood, Art Glass Ensembles
4013 Skippack Pike, P.O.Box 903, Skippack, PA 19474-0903
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From owner-glass Mon Apr 27 07:50:09 1998
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: fibers <fibers@wcnet.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: glue chip
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 09:51:57 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr27.55157.0>
References: <<1998Apr26.161843.0>>
Precedence: bulk

fibers wrote:
> 
> I have a problem, can't decide which way is right.
> I am working on an inset for a cabinet door using two diamond and one
> oval bevel, surrounded with clear glue chip. I am in a quandry trying to
> decide which side of the glue chip should be on the outside. The
> housewife in me says it should be the smooth side since that will be
> eaiser to keep clean. ( The door will be located near a cook top) Whot
> would you do?
> Nelda
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

if it's for your self, the chip on the inside would be the easiest to
clean. on the outside, it will give good surface reflection. i guess you
could try cleaning a piece of glue chip to see how easy it would be to
clean. do it as you would with what ever you use, to make sure you don't
scratch it.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
2-2-98 New Pages Added: 22 New Stained Glass Links, 7 New Projects Added
and My Updated Shop Photo's
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From owner-glass Mon Apr 27 10:15:00 1998
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From: Mosfunland <Mosfunland@aol.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: missing part two
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 12:35:18 EDT
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This post was sent but never came through to me, so sorry if you folks already
received it......

   Well maybe I forgot to say that Ray got the biggest kick out of yough.
glass company.  (Ray being our driver with a compass imbedded in his
head.....from some irate drivee more than likely)...  He got the tour of the
plant too, and like myself, never got to see glass made.....I however,  have
SOME sense of direction and humor,  which came in handy when I sensed I was
going to die on the mountain.....but I digress......     Most of us came away
from the plant with chunks of bizarre looking glass, which while looking
strangely interesting, it had the darndest little slivers of glass filaments
which embedded themselves just as nicely as a few cactii I have had the
displeasure to run into......
     but back to the story....
One thing about this neck of the woods was that we were surely an attraction,
like my co-traveler described.  We drove up a long winding hill with people
lookin at us with peculiar expressions....(I imagined they were
thinking....."what in blazes is a tour group doing up here, biggest attraction
is the lumber mill......")  After the road twisted a few more times, Ray,
(wrong-way-ray  as he is known in some circles), Ray made the judicious
decision to turn the bus around, in the aforementioned lumber mill.....They
guys at the mill...shaking their heads....waved vigourously to us, and we
waved back....we should make the local paper.  We sent enough dust into the
air to cause another ice age as the two busses turned a giant arc and went
down the hill......no mistake it rained for the next 24 hours....
  My friend and I  took glass classes together 7 years ago, when she decided
we needed to find a "relaxing hobby" and the local art center was giving
classes, run by a terrific woman, Barb Smith and her husband Bob.)  So here we
were out in the hill and valley side of Pennsylvania....in search of glass.
The bus to Nemacolin resort headed out like any normal tour bus would....with
happy go lucky people....honest to pete we drove past houses and a couple
still had christmas trees in their windows....I am not sure what this was
about, the air is thinner up there.   So up the mountain we begin....errr-
errr-errr-errr-errr I think I can I think I can....rain trying to ruin our
fun.....after about 10 minutes I looked out to the top of this mountain and
saw this white shining thing at the top, little did I know it was Nemacolin,
which, when I stepped off the bus,  it made me think "redrum redrum
redrum"....The Shining...
  The place was such a visual treat, It was filled with treasures which I
never would have come into contact with.  Ever.   One of the greatest treats
for me, was looking thought the original Audubon plate book, and in the same
area were two Tiffany lamps!  There were overstuffed leather chairs and game
tables set up so you could enjoy a quiet game or read a book....and this room
was just one of the nooks and crannies in this "motel".  I could never have
imagined those crystal chandeliers, and the ballroom was fantastic.  We spent
a couple hours wandering the halls, nooks and crannies, sitting spots,
beverage areas,  drooling (figuratively) over and under the lamps and panels
by Tiffany.  Where the heck else could a couple of ordinary city folk see
these wonders?  You can visit it on the web   http://www.nwlr.com/
   Now after a couple double shots of Baileys on ice I was into the total mind
relax thing......and then we boarded the bus.
   Of course it was pouring rain, and it certainly felt like a 30 degree
grade....and we passed several "runnaway truck stops"....which in Philadelphia
amounts to a trash truck rolling down the hill and plowing into some parked
cars while its trashmen are in the local refreshment center....but I digress
again....  After the first "RTS" I felt beads of sweat on my formerly relaxed
farhead....(Oh I forgot to mention the smell of burning rubber).....we
trundled onward, down down down....tempting fate with Ray in command.   And
Fate, being the ever loving jokester, spoke to Ray.  Actually the entire bus
was speaking to Ray......YO RAY YOU ARE GOING BACK UP THE MOUNTAIN.. you see
Ray in his infinte wisdom did not have his oars in the water.....and a block
before our hotel he just sort of took the wrong exit....  These chants weren't
lost on me.  I had realized 3/4 of the way DOWN the mountain that the beads of
sweat do eventually drip down your face ....
I hoped they were kidding until I saw that daggum Christmas tree up in a
certain attic window again, at that point I wanted to grip the overhead bars
and scream STOP the bus, I want to get off!!!!!   But the woman next to me
engaged me in conversation of which I have no recall......   Halfway up the
mountain the finger of God had removed one of the cement road dividers and Ray
seeing his moment of chance made a U-turn...of course I was sure we were going
to back up OFF the mountain.  And just as we were perpendicular to the road, I
imagined a huge truck coming down the mountain, never expecting a renegade
tour bus to be smack accross the road.  But then I realized, no trucker in his
right mind would be on this hill.......So we made it down and when it was time
for Ray to make a right turn, the fine citizens of Uniontown could hear a
bright blue tour bus hollering in unison: "Make a right Ray"....and he
did....and we cheered!
   Meanwhile, back at the Holiday Inn, the fraternity/sorority party was going
strong I guess somewhere.....but I just washed my sweatless face and hit the
sheets....
   Tommorrow...Fallingwater.....   I am sorry if this is long and winded...hey
I never say much on the list....appologies to any offended...
Maureen 
 (who has a shirt that says "I drove with Ray") and may even cross out the
"Saint Christopher" from the bottom of the statue and write "RAY"
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From owner-glass Mon Apr 27 10:28:07 1998
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From: cpesonen@bcinternet.net (Cindy Pesonen)
To: GLASS@BUNGI.COM
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Subject: glue chip
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 09:11:22 -0700 (PDT)
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Precedence: bulk

>X-From_: owner-glass@daver.bungi.com Sun Apr 26 20:01:54 1998
>Return-Path: owner-glass@daver.bungi.com
>X-Path: wcnet.net!fibers
>From: fibers@wcnet.net (fibers)
>To: "glass@ bungie.com" <glass@bungi.com>
>Subject: glue chip
>Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 21:18:43 -0500
>Precedence: bulk
>  

Here's another opinion.
I'd keep the texture side out, I have it in 5 cupboard doors in my own
kitchen and it's not a problem to clean. I find looking at it the other way
makes me feel it's in there backwards and that bothers me awhole lot more.
What I have found worse...is when baking and the flour mixture kinda finds
it's way to any part of the glass whether sg or glue chip and dries there,
one almost needs a chiesel to pry it off. 
Another kitchen bummer is the large sg. lamp across from the stove above our
table, it seems to get more grease on it than above the stove.
Smiles, Cindy

Nelda wrote:
>I have a problem, can't decide which way is right.
>I am working on an inset for a cabinet door using two diamond and one
>oval bevel, surrounded with clear glue chip. I am in a quandry trying to
>decide which side of the glue chip should be on the outside. The
>housewife in me says it should be the smooth side since that will be
>eaiser to keep clean. ( The door will be located near a cook top) Whot
>would you do?
>Nelda
>
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>

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From owner-glass Mon Apr 27 11:09:09 1998
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From: Sherri Pierce <sherrip@iscweb.com>
To: Sherri Pierce <sherrip@iscweb.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: [Fwd: Re: Patterns or picture of wolf        (head/shoulder view)]
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 10:33:14 -0700
Message-ID: <1998Apr27.33314.0>
References: <<34D91859.522C@iscweb.com>>
Organization: Pzaz Stained Glass
Precedence: bulk

Sherri Pierce wrote:
> 
> Hi there,
>         Just got your message about the wolf pattern.  If you will call
> me with your address or E-mail, I will send you a color photo.  I did a
> round about 18" and a large piece - 3'....Thanks to Suzan Haley for your
> request.  The small pattern is 5.95 plus $1.00 ship/hand.  The large one
> is $25.00 plus 3.00 ship/hand.  I do not get to play with this computer
> much...I'm not too literate either.  But I peck away at it.
> 
> Sherri
> 
>     ---------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Subject: Re: Patterns or picture of wolf (head/shoulder view)
> Date: Tue, 04 Nov 97 07:19:57 -0800
> From: "Suzanne Haley"<shaly@mfi.com>
> To: <glass@bungi.com>
> 
>      Carol,
>      Contact Sherri Pierce, Pzaz Glass Studios, Petaluma, CA  (Phone: 707
>      763-6220). e-mail address: sherrip@iscweb.com
>      Also has a web page:  http://www.artglassworld.com/studio/pzaz/
>      Mary Ellen is her assistant.  Sherri has a pattern book available -
>      Expressions in Glass.  Recently has been doing quite a few designs re
>      endangered species.  I was in her shop last month when she had just
>      finished a stunning wolf (shoulder/head view). Eyes were amazing.
>      At that time she was going to send the pattern, picture of finished
>      work, etc. into Stain Glass Quarterly.  Give her a call, great artist,
>      great shop!  Suzanne Haley
> 
> ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
> Subject: Paterns or picture of wolf
> Author:  <glass@bungi.com> at Internet
> Date:    11/3/97 5:03 PM
> 
> 
> Hi :     From another lurker!
> A little nervous about sending this request, as I am am quite computer
> illiterate.  Would anyone know where I could find a wolf pattern that
> could be done in copper foil?
> Thanks in advance.      Carol
> 
> ----
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> Hello Carol,  I said I wouldn't waste my day at this computer when it is 
so nice outside and I have so much work to do.  But you have been waiting 
a long time for this answer.  I have a wonderful wolf head, 18" round or 
what ever size you wish it to be.  I also developed it into a 3' square 
in a southwest theme.  It is not on the market but will be offered to 
Stained Glass Quarterly soon.  How soon, don't ask.  Personal designs not 
published as yet run around $10.00 plus shipping and the large one is 
$25.00  Naturally I cannot send you a copy to view. If your local outlet 
carries my book, Expressions In Glass, you will see the quality of my 
work.  I also have manufactured the PZ6 Luster Brush that you may have 
seen on the net.  It is used on a 3/8" drill an polishes your leaded and 
foiled work to a high shine without chemicals. Send me your address for 
more info. Pzaz is a small retail shop in Petaluma, Ca. in business for 
19 years.  We specialize in custom designs, classes, repairs, and sell 
retail supplies.  If I can be of further help let me know.  I'll look for 
your response.

Sherri Pierce - owner
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From owner-glass Mon Apr 27 11:32:07 1998
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X-Path: CapAccess.org!rejones
From: "Robert E. Jones" <rejones@CapAccess.org>
To: BOB DUCHESNEAU <YWAH36A@prodigy.com>
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Dale Tiffany, Inc. anyone?
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 14:04:00 -0400 (EDT)
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References: <<199804270437.AAA13924@mime3.prodigy.com>>
Precedence: bulk

On Mon, 27 Apr 1998, BOB DUCHESNEAU wrote:

> They are asking $350 for it.  The strange thing is, they are 
> advertising 
> it as an original Tiffany.  I asked about this and they "assured" me 
> that 
> it was in fact a Louis Comfort Tiffany piece.  When I told them that 


I was there again today.  They have no stained glass panels left.  When I 
asked what happened to them they said a guy came in amd made them an 
offer for all the panels (28 panels).  He owned a company that salvages 
old stained glass and waarehouses the pieces for later use.

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From owner-glass Mon Apr 27 12:30:53 1998
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From: "Kaye Sodt" <kaye@GSA-ORSP.CROWN.NWU.EDU>
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Glue-chip
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 13:50:46 CST 6CDT
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Nelda:

Sounds like there's no consensus of opinion on your question, but 
interesting reasons for both sides (of the question and of the 
glass).  Let us know what you decide--and why!

Kaye

(Going back to the shadows where I'm kicking myself for not going on 
the Yough tour!)
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From owner-glass Mon Apr 27 12:59:58 1998
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From: "wibich" <wibich@junction.net>
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Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 12:19:06 -0600
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hi looking for information and stain glass suppliers...as well as just
discussing techniques and processes

ciya wibich
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From owner-glass Mon Apr 27 14:26:36 1998
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From: "Laurean E. Clover" <vlclover@rconnect.com>
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Subject: Harley pattern
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 15:52:12 -0700
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I have a customer in the making who is a faithful Harley
 lover.  I on the other hand know nil about them.
 
 I am wondering if any of you know of a pattern or pattern
 book on the market with the logo or a motorcycle? Or maybe
 can direct me in this venture?
 
 Thanks alot!
 
 Laurean

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From owner-glass Mon Apr 27 16:37:29 1998
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Subject: glue chip
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 17:47:37 -0500
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No longer in a quandry. I believe the general opnion is "suit yourself".

It is going in my son's new kitchen, no back lighting, and since it will
be near the cook top , I've decided to put the smooth side out. Even
though they have a good venting sytem, getting grease off, can be a
chore neither his wife or I like to think about.  The cabinet will hold
a set of pretty glasses on a lazy susan and should be easy to keep neat.

Thank you all for your very thoughtful advice.
Nelda

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From owner-glass Mon Apr 27 17:05:42 1998
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Subject: Hand tool
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 18:28:44 -0500
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The discussions on this group is so interesting  and informative that I
would like to ask another question.

What is your most valuable handtool. Not in $'s but rather in
usefullness. If it is adapted , please tell us how, if it's made, please
tell us that too. If it was bought, where?
Looking forward to the next posts.
Nelda

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From owner-glass Mon Apr 27 18:09:09 1998
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Subject: Re: Hand tool
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 98 20:31:56 -0400
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>What is your most valuable handtool. Not in $'s but rather in
>usefullness. If it is adapted , please tell us how, if it's made, please
>tell us that too. If it was bought, where?
>Looking forward to the next posts.

Nelda, I would have to nominate the Morton grid system with its studio 
bar for cutting straight lines and right angles. Don't know how I'd live 
without it!

Suzanne
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From owner-glass Mon Apr 27 18:27:50 1998
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From: "Laurean E. Clover" <vlclover@rconnect.com>
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Subject: Re: Hand tool
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 19:30:53 -0700
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Organization: Lone Tree Homeschool
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one of my most valuable tools is my permanant marker.
I use it to trace my pattern pieces, mark measurements. 
drawing my pattern, and to burnish foil to the glass.

Laurean
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From owner-glass Mon Apr 27 18:33:08 1998
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Subject: New helpful tip
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 19:48:40 -0500
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Don't know if we ever discussed this before or not.
Ran into a great find today while browsing through the dollar store.

I have my grinder placed inside an aquarium to help prevent splash and 
protect eyes.
Having almost reached the "golden Senior years" my eye sight isn't as sharp 
as it was and sometimes I have difficulty seeing the pattern lines on those 
itty-bitty pieces.
Found what is called a magnifying sheet. It is a flat 8" x11"sheet  ( of 
some kind of clear plastic) that I placed on top of the aquarium. Works 
like a charm and it only cost a buck!! Magnifies without distortion and 
WOW..I can see!
Sue Reitmann

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From owner-glass Mon Apr 27 19:08:01 1998
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From: "Daniel M. German" <dmg@csg.uwaterloo.ca>
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Subject: Re: Hand tool
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 21:31:45 -0400
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 >> What is your most valuable handtool. Not in $'s but rather in
 >> usefullness. If it is adapted , please tell us how, if it's made, please
 >> tell us that too. If it was bought, where?
 >> Looking forward to the next posts.


Can anything be more valuable than my glass cutter? (No matter how
cheapy, ugly, old it might be). The cutter and the iron make my work
possible. Everything else are luxuries.
 

--
Daniel M. German                  "I still have to see a problem,
                                   however complicated, which, when
                                    you looked at it in the right way
   Poul Anderson ->                did not become still more complicated"
http://csgwww.uwaterloo.ca/~dmg/home.html
dmg@csg.uwaterloo.ca

 
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From owner-glass Mon Apr 27 19:21:46 1998
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
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Subject: Re: Hand tool
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 21:38:49 -0400
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fibers wrote:
> 
> The discussions on this group is so interesting  and informative that I
> would like to ask another question.
> 
> What is your most valuable handtool. Not in $'s but rather in
> usefullness. If it is adapted , please tell us how, if it's made, please
> tell us that too. If it was bought, where?
> Looking forward to the next posts.
> Nelda
> 
> ----

not quite a hand tool, but i'd have to say my brain, it's come quite in
handy from time to time. the second tool is my hands.... :)

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
2-2-98 New Pages Added: 22 New Stained Glass Links, 7 New Projects Added
and My Updated Shop Photo's
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From owner-glass Mon Apr 27 20:05:50 1998
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Subject: Re: Glue-chip
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 22:44:50 EDT
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I put glue chip in 9 cabinet doors (until I can make panels for them at a
later date).  And I placed them smooth side out.  Eight of them are in two
cabinets over an island and have doors on both sides so light shines through
them and I can see the texture very well eventhough it faces inward.  They are
right over my stove and a very active grill and I have no trouble cleaning
them this way.  

Susie
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From owner-glass Mon Apr 27 20:40:22 1998
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Subject: Re: Hand tool
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 23:18:25 EDT
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    My favorite tool is this little plastic thingy that crimps my foil for me.
(I only do copperfoil work) I've had it for years, does a great job. I think
it is called a kwik-crimp. Sells for about $6.00. 

Susan
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From owner-glass Mon Apr 27 21:08:23 1998
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From: Goldpaws <gmanning@banet.net>
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Subject: Gold tone patina finish
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 22:43:14 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr27.184314.0>
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I need advice on how to get a gold tone finish on my Impatience with
filigree lamp shade.
( used quick set solder)
I used antique brass patina on two projects. One looked goldish and the
other was antique looking.
Just like the bottle said. LOL
What I am looking for is a  gold or brass finish.
What do you folks use?
Any help would be greatly appreciated, as I fairly new to stained glass.

TIA
Goldpaws


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From owner-glass Mon Apr 27 21:22:38 1998
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From: "Howard and Elaine Rubin" <weaver51@teleport.com>
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Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Hand tool
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 18:45:26 -0700
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For straight line and repetitive cutting MORTON.

For grozing fishlip pliers....still looking for some to sell to you (all).

Have you tried to do a major project without a grinder?

Not needed tools????? start this thread as well.

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From owner-glass Mon Apr 27 21:35:56 1998
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To: Sue Reitmann <oddjob@scc.net>
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Subject: Re: New helpful tip
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 22:20:06 -0500
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I'm picturing myself peering so close to what I'm grinding that I leave
smudge marks from my face on the glass of the aquarium!!!  Glad you
finally found that manifying thing since I know you've been looking for
one for almost a year now.  Where'd you find it?  Seems my eyes have
been getting REALLY bad what with all the work I've been doing on the
computer of late and once I get my new shop set up I'll be needing one!
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From owner-glass Mon Apr 27 21:36:52 1998
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From: "Howard and Elaine Rubin" <weaver51@teleport.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: 28 panels and value?
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 18:43:02 -0700
Message-ID: <1998Apr27.11432.0>
Precedence: bulk

Do you think anyone who could amass 28 panels would not know what they were?

How do think 28 Tiffany panels would be together in one place.

If all the Tiffany projects purported to be REAL, were....the factory would
still be churning out pieces just to keep up with the numbers so people
could think they were Tiffanies.

Very rare to see a "new" one appear for sale with out any documentation. let
alone 28 panels.

I have a few auction books and prices realized, as well as documentation of
existing ones.

As an aside, I turned down $950.00 for one of my auction books....cost
$45.00 RETAIL when it was published.

Any item is only worth what one can get for it!   The raw materials used is
irrelevant to the final cost and the demand. CASE in point....I buy and sell
BEANIE-BABIES...I will not pay over $7.00 for one, but have had high offers
on some...same raw material, same imported crap, but COLLECTABLE and sought
after by those who WANT them.....It is called SUPPLY and DEMAND!!!!!

Even some of my earlier shades have gone up for local auction and have sold
for more than the original cost to the estate and I am still (marginally)
alive!

enjoy, H

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From owner-glass Mon Apr 27 21:48:31 1998
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From: Mosfunland <Mosfunland@aol.com>
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Subject: Re: Hand tool
Date: Tue, 28 Apr 1998 00:14:08 EDT
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Gotta be my credit card........it functions as a straight edge.....inables my
dreams to come true.....fits in any pocket....

runner up number two......my square, I use it all the time with glass.

Maureen
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From owner-glass Mon Apr 27 23:09:16 1998
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From: Goldpaws <gmanning@banet.net>
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Subject: Not needed tools
Date: Tue, 28 Apr 1998 01:46:26 -0400
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Not Needed, but wonderful to have for me:
Stenciling  that I did on the white walls.
So I also stenciled the floor that  has solder drips on it.
Hey, I am new. LOL
Just love getting  those up.
Boom box that plays my favorite music soft  romantic music
Yankee candles burning for a wonderful scent
Speaker phone when people call and I can still work
New faucet & sprayer  that is up high over the double antique soapstone
sink
Never new our basement would look so good- not all of it it, but I am
expanding.
Truly NOT NEEDED
M-80  Breaker, for me I can crush any piece of glass to 100's of pieces
with it!!
Goldpaws


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From owner-glass Mon Apr 27 23:38:23 1998
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Subject: Not needed tools????? start this thread as well.
Date: Tue, 28 Apr 1998 00:41:37 -0400 (EDT)
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How about foilers. I find them clumsy and slow.

Mary


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From owner-glass Tue Apr 28 00:39:22 1998
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Subject: mos part 2 of Rays Great Adventure
Date: Sat, 25 Apr 1998 00:47:10 EDT
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   Well maybe I forgot to say that Ray got the biggest kick out of yough.
glass company.  (Ray being our driver with a compass imbedded in his
head.....from some irate drivee more than likely)...  He got the tour of the
plant too, and like myself, never got to see glass made.....I however,  have
SOME sense of direction and humor,  which came in handy when I sensed I was
going to die on the mountain.....but I digress......     Most of us came away
from the plant with chunks of bizarre looking glass, which while looking
strangely interesting, it had the darndest little slivers of glass filaments
which embedded themselves just as nicely as a few cactii I have had the
displeasure to run into......
     but back to the story....
One thing about this neck of the woods was that we were surely an attraction,
like my co-traveler described.  We drove up a long winding hill with people
lookin at us with peculiar expressions....(I imagined they were
thinking....."what in blazes is a tour group doing up here, biggest attraction
is the lumber mill......")  After the road twisted a few more times, Ray,
(wrong-way-ray  as he is known in some circles), Ray made the judicious
decision to turn the bus around, in the aforementioned lumber mill.....They
guys at the mill...shaking their heads....waved vigourously to us, and we
waved back....we should make the local paper.  We sent enough dust into the
air to cause another ice age as the two busses turned a giant arc and went
down the hill......no mistake it rained for the next 24 hours....
  My friend and I  took glass classes together 7 years ago, when she decided
we needed to find a "relaxing hobby" and the local art center was giving
classes, run by a terrific woman, Barb Smith and her husband Bob.)  So here we
were out in the hill and valley side of Pennsylvania....in search of glass.
The bus to Nemacolin resort headed out like any normal tour bus would....with
happy go lucky people....honest to pete we drove past houses and a couple
still had christmas trees in their windows....I am not sure what this was
about, the air is thinner up there.   So up the mountain we begin....errr-
errr-errr-errr-errr I think I can I think I can....rain trying to ruin our
fun.....after about 10 minutes I looked out to the top of this mountain and
saw this white shining thing at the top, little did I know it was Nemacolin,
which, when I stepped off the bus,  it made me think "redrum redrum
redrum"....The Shining...
  The place was such a visual treat, It was filled with treasures which I
never would have come into contact with.  Ever.   One of the greatest treats
for me, was looking thought the original Audubon plate book, and in the same
area were two Tiffany lamps!  There were overstuffed leather chairs and game
tables set up so you could enjoy a quiet game or read a book....and this room
was just one of the nooks and crannies in this "motel".  I could never have
imagined those crystal chandeliers, and the ballroom was fantastic.  We spent
a couple hours wandering the halls, nooks and crannies, sitting spots,
beverage areas,  drooling (figuratively) over and under the lamps and panels
by Tiffany.  Where the heck else could a couple of ordinary city folk see
these wonders?  You can visit it on the web   http://www.nwlr.com/
   Now after a couple double shots of Baileys on ice I was into the total mind
relax thing......and then we boarded the bus.
   Of course it was pouring rain, and it certainly felt like a 30 degree
grade....and we passed several "runnaway truck stops"....which in Philadelphia
amounts to a trash truck rolling down the hill and plowing into some parked
cars while its trashmen are in the local refreshment center....but I digress
again....  After the first "RTS" I felt beads of sweat on my formerly relaxed
farhead....(Oh I forgot to mention the smell of burning rubber).....we
trundled onward, down down down....tempting fate with Ray in command.   And
Fate, being the ever loving jokester, spoke to Ray.  Actually the entire bus
was speaking to Ray......YO RAY YOU ARE GOING BACK UP THE MOUNTAIN.. you see
Ray in his infinte wisdom did not have his oars in the water.....and a block
before our hotel he just sort of took the wrong exit....  These chants weren't
lost on me.  I had realized 3/4 of the way DOWN the mountain that the beads of
sweat do eventually drip down your face ....
I hoped they were kidding until I saw that daggum Christmas tree up in a
certain attic window again, at that point I wanted to grip the overhead bars
and scream STOP the bus, I want to get off!!!!!   But the woman next to me
engaged me in conversation of which I have no recall......   Halfway up the
mountain the finger of God had removed one of the cement road dividers and Ray
seeing his moment of chance made a U-turn...of course I was sure we were going
to back up OFF the mountain.  And just as we were perpendicular to the road, I
imagined a huge truck coming down the mountain, never expecting a renegade
tour bus to be smack accross the road.  But then I realized, no trucker in his
right mind would be on this hill.......So we made it down and when it was time
for Ray to make a right turn, the fine citizens of Uniontown could hear a
bright blue tour bus hollering in unison: "Make a right Ray"....and he
did....and we cheered!
   Meanwhile, back at the Holiday Inn, the fraternity/sorority party was going
strong I guess somewhere.....but I just washed my sweatless face and hit the
sheets....
   Tommorrow...Fallingwater.....   I am sorry if this is long and winded...hey
I never say much on the list....appologies to any offended...
Maureen 
 (who has a shirt that says "I drove with Ray") and may even cross out the
"Saint Christopher" from the bottom of the statue and write "RAY"
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From owner-glass Tue Apr 28 01:13:00 1998
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From: Rick Lasita <pebble@fuse.net>
To: fibers <fibers@wcnet.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Hand tool
Date: Tue, 28 Apr 1998 03:46:41 -0400
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Organization: Window Art GLass Studio
Precedence: bulk

> What is your most valuable handtool. 

Other than my trusty cutter, couldn't get along without my breaking
pliers. 

Rick
http://home.fuse.net/crafts/
updated 4/27/98
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From owner-glass Tue Apr 28 03:52:48 1998
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From: Linda Campbell <lcbell@memach.com>
To: "glass@ bungie.com" <glass@bungi.com>
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Subject: RE: Hand tool
Date: Tue, 28 Apr 1998 06:15:23 -0400
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Seriously, it would have to be my Glastar running pliers. These allow me =
to make near impossible breaks. I can almost make right angle breaks =
with no trouble at all. Now if I could just keep my cutter perpendicular =
to the glass all the way through the score.

Linda Campbell


----------
What is your most valuable handtool. Not in $'s but rather in
usefullness. If it is adapted , please tell us how, if it's made, please
tell us that too. If it was bought, where?
Looking forward to the next posts.
Nelda


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From owner-glass Tue Apr 28 05:57:21 1998
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: Goldpaws <gmanning@banet.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Gold tone patina finish
Date: Tue, 28 Apr 1998 08:18:33 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr28.41833.0>
References: <<1998Apr27.184314.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Goldpaws wrote:
> 
> I need advice on how to get a gold tone finish on my Impatience with
> filigree lamp shade.
> ( used quick set solder)
> I used antique brass patina on two projects. One looked goldish and the
> other was antique looking.
> Just like the bottle said. LOL
> What I am looking for is a  gold or brass finish.
> What do you folks use?
> Any help would be greatly appreciated, as I fairly new to stained glass.
> 

there's only a few things that can be done. brass patina barely works.
it only works if the solder is clean, and if you polish it. after
polishing it will sort of look like brass, only fairly faint. copper is
shinier, but it's copper. the other method is electro plating, but
that's expensive.

i would either make it copper, tin the filligree. or make the solder
black, and polish the filligree for more contrast.

---Mike Savad

-- 
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http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
2-2-98 New Pages Added: 22 New Stained Glass Links, 7 New Projects Added
and My Updated Shop Photo's
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From owner-glass Tue Apr 28 07:50:59 1998
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From: "Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Gold tone patina finish
Date: Tue, 28 Apr 1998 10:05:58 -0400
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Message text written by Goldpaws
>I need advice on how to get a gold tone finish on my Impatience with
filigree lamp shade.  I used antique brass patina on two projects. One
looked goldish and the
other was antique looking.  Just like the bottle said. LOL
What I am looking for is a  gold or brass finish.
What do you folks use?<

I use the Antique Bronze patina by Inland.  If you only do
a quick setting of the patina, it is a dull bronze color.  But
if you continue to polish the patina onto the solder line,
it brightens up considerably.  Not as red and coppery as
regular Brite Copper patina, but a more ?mellow? brass
color.  That's the closest I've come to gold or brass.  Have
you considered using real brass came, or brass-coated lead
came, instead of foil?

Christie A. Wood, Art Glass Ensembles
4013 Skippack Pike, P.O.Box 903, Skippack, PA 19474-0903
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From owner-glass Tue Apr 28 08:20:03 1998
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From: "Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
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Subject: Hand tool
Date: Tue, 28 Apr 1998 10:05:55 -0400
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Message text written by Nelda:
>What is your most valuable handtool. Not in $'s but rather in
usefullness.<

Exacto knife and my dull knife.  Oh so useful for cutting, taking
foil off glass for repairs, removing excess grout/cement on mosaics,
trimming patterns, trimming up overlap on foiled pieces, etc.  The
Exacto knife you can purchase anywhere, but my dad made me
the dull knife about 20 years ago and I would not trade it for
anything.  Well, maybe for a beveling system, but not for anything
less than that!

Christie A. Wood, Art Glass Ensembles
4013 Skippack Pike, P.O.Box 903, Skippack, PA 19474-0903
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From owner-glass Tue Apr 28 08:24:38 1998
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From: TifStyOrig <TifStyOrig@aol.com>
To: gmanning@banet.net, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Gold tone patina finish
Date: Tue, 28 Apr 1998 10:11:29 EDT
Message-ID: <1998Apr28.141129.0>
Precedence: bulk

What I find works to bring out a shiny brass finish is SimiChrome polish and a
good buffing.  Of course, that is after I have thoroughly cleaned the piece
after soldering.
However, over time, the brass shine may "soften" so you may have to do a
periodic polish.
Diane Manchester
Tiffany Styled Originals
Delray Beach, FL
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From owner-glass Tue Apr 28 08:43:10 1998
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From: "Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Harley pattern
Date: Tue, 28 Apr 1998 10:05:52 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr28.6552.0>
Precedence: bulk

Message text written by "Laurean E. Clover"
>I have a customer in the making who is a faithful Harley
 lover.  I on the other hand know nil about them.
 =

 I am wondering if any of you know of a pattern or pattern
 book on the market with the logo or a motorcycle? Or maybe
 can direct me in this venture?<

Oh, Lauren.  How funny.  My brother is a Harley rider, and
years ago I did a stained glass portrait of his 'baby'.  I still have
the pattern.  It's just of a Harley - nothing else to distract from
the bike.  I did the chrome in mirror, and the black leather
using rubbly textured black glass.  It turned out well.  You
want a copy?  Email me privately.

Christie A. Wood, Art Glass Ensembles
4013 Skippack Pike, P.O.Box 903, Skippack, PA 19474-0903
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From owner-glass Tue Apr 28 08:46:53 1998
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From: P D RUSS <PDRUSS@aol.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Hand tool
Date: Tue, 28 Apr 1998 10:12:27 EDT
Message-ID: <1998Apr28.141227.0>
Precedence: bulk

In a message dated 98-04-27 23:42:40 EDT, you write:

<< 
     My favorite tool is this little plastic thingy that crimps my foil for
me.
 (I only do copperfoil work) I've had it for years, does a great job. I think
 it is called a kwik-crimp. Sells for about $6.00. 
 
 Susan >>



I just bought one for the first time a few months ago hoping to save my poor
fingers. But I find I still have to hand crimp after using this thing. Am I
doing something wrong?

Dianne  >^..^<
pdruss@aol.com
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From owner-glass Tue Apr 28 08:59:37 1998
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From: DMR74 <DMR74@aol.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: 28 panels and value?
Date: Tue, 28 Apr 1998 10:55:36 EDT
Message-ID: <1998Apr28.145536.0>
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In a message dated 98-04-28 00:37:12 EDT, you write:

> Any item is only worth what one can get for it!   The raw materials used is
>  irrelevant to the final cost and the demand. CASE in point....I buy and
sell
>  BEANIE-BABIES...I will not pay over $7.00 for one, but have had high offers
>  on some...same raw material, same imported crap, but COLLECTABLE and sought
>  after by those who WANT them.....It is called SUPPLY and DEMAND!!!!!
>  
Howard, YOU collect beanie babies LOL I knew there was a soft side to you LOL
Ok so I know there must be money to be made at this time for those silly
little things 
OOps sorry off topic 
deb
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From owner-glass Tue Apr 28 09:11:18 1998
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From: "Laurean E. Clover" <vlclover@rconnect.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: New helpful tip
Date: Tue, 28 Apr 1998 08:30:43 -0700
Message-ID: <1998Apr28.13043.0>
References: <<1998Apr27.17206.0>>
Organization: Lone Tree Homeschool
Precedence: bulk

Where'd you find it?  Seems my eyes have
> been getting REALLY bad what with all the work I've been doing on the
> computer of late and once I get my new shop set up I'll be needing one!

I know most pharmacies have those magnifier strips.

Laurean
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From owner-glass Tue Apr 28 09:25:36 1998
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From: "Howard and Elaine Rubin" <weaver51@teleport.com>
To: "Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Gold tone patina finish
Date: Tue, 28 Apr 1998 08:38:57 -0700
Message-ID: <1998Apr28.13857.0>
Precedence: bulk

Ask a metal plater (look up in yellow pages or on computer) about plating
the lead with a metal that will take a gold finish. Be sure to mention it is
a stained glass piece and ask if the chemicals  or electrolysis process will
effect the colors of the glass. TRY a few test pieces and ask if a "new"
batch of chemicals can used first for your piece. Generally a plating of a
metal compatible with lead is applied and then another metal is applied
(formed) that is compatible with the plated lead. NOTE: this is not a
technical dissertation, but a remembrance of the process told to me many
years ago.
I had asked a palter in Eugene Or about plating a shade for me, and he said
he had done a few and no harm to the glass, but wanted the shade for a few
weeks, so when he changed the tank chemicals, my shade would be first in the
new bath.

enjoy, H



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From owner-glass Tue Apr 28 09:36:23 1998
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From: DMR74 <DMR74@aol.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: ...As a Teacher... Conclusion, not yet
Date: Tue, 28 Apr 1998 11:35:40 EDT
Message-ID: <1998Apr28.153540.0>
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In a message dated 98-04-20 21:58:18 EDT, you write:

> ..And I was addressing myself to the Teachers amongst us. I am very 
>  well aware what a Learner wants.... I am still a Learner myself.... 
>  even after 25 years.... As I said before, one treads a fine line....  

 
Well your first letter didn't address JUST the teachers amongst us, it seems
you addressed to ALL of bungi for OUR oppinions.  I gave mine and I think
others felt the same way but were afraid to say so.  
>  Deb...I think you missed the point somewhere. I hope you don't mind 
>  me saying that.
 SWOOSH !! I guess I must have.
deb who thought about just going back to lurk but wants to show others that we
are not forced to lurk just because we think others will not like our
oppinions and make us feel inferior because oppinions are what most of us will
learn by
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From owner-glass Tue Apr 28 11:01:03 1998
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X-Path: post.queensu.ca!seguinr
From: Rachelle Seguin <seguinr@post.queensu.ca>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: brass patina
Date: Tue, 28 Apr 1998 11:26:17 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr28.72617.0>
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Hello

I am very new to the list and to stained glass. I have made a prairie =
lamp and have an antiqued brass base that I purchased for it. I have =
been following the discussion regarding patina. My instructor suggested =
that I mix black patina and copper patina in equal parts to achieve a =
brass finish but I have not yet tried this. Does anyone have any =
experience with doing this?

Rachelle Seguin 
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From owner-glass Tue Apr 28 11:30:20 1998
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From: "Laurean E. Clover" <vlclover@rconnect.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: 28 panels and value?
Date: Tue, 28 Apr 1998 11:31:09 -0700
Message-ID: <1998Apr28.4319.0>
References: <<1998Apr28.145536.0>>
Organization: Lone Tree Homeschool
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The beanie baby thing threw me too! <g>
Laurean
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From owner-glass Tue Apr 28 11:36:16 1998
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From: "Howard and Elaine Rubin" <weaver51@teleport.com>
To: "DMR74" <DMR74@aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: soft side (was 28 panels) now diversion
Date: Tue, 28 Apr 1998 10:26:15 -0700
Message-ID: <1998Apr28.32615.0>
Precedence: bulk

Gradual diversion from the glass topic.....

I collect Beanies primarily for re-sale!

Because I DO NOT have to own any specific one, I am content to buy for price
and re-sell.

I do have a lot of collectibles, phones, clocks, firearms, Lenox (old), lamp
bases, stamps, coins and so forth.
I have come to grips with not being able to take anything with me and I do
not think there will be a u-haul attached to the hearse, either. From what I
have seen, no pockets in a shroud, too.

I have SLOWLY been liquidating some of my "stuff" for a lot more than I paid
to acquire them.

Dumping money into the stockmarket....and even winning a few times.

not morbid, just a realist!!!!!

enjoy, H



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From owner-glass Tue Apr 28 13:08:21 1998
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From: Babs <babs@moonlightstudio.com>
To: "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Help please.. 1800's window
Date: Tue, 28 Apr 1998 14:08:54 -0500
Message-ID: <1998Apr28.9854.0>
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Hi..
Am still fairly new to this group and have appreicated all the advice I
have seen posted back and forth among folks..
I have been asked to take apart and re-lead an early 1800's window..
The glass is in absolutely lovely pristine condition.. the lead however
is not.
It is going to go into my sister's  new house above the front door.
I am still pretty new to restoration.. Have done some limited work..
What I am wondering.. what do I use to take off the putty, or
whatever had been used.. and to begin to take off the old lead so
that it can be reworked.. etc..
Advice would be appreciated.. Thank you..
Barb
babs@moonlightstudio.com

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From owner-glass Tue Apr 28 14:11:33 1998
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X-Path: az.stratus.com!charlie
From: Charles Spitzer <charlie@az.stratus.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: Re: Help please.. 1800's window
Date: Tue, 28 Apr 98 13:17:40 -0700
Message-ID: <m0yUGoy-000LiCC@why.az.stratus.com>
References: <<1998Apr28.9854.0>>
Organization: Customer Assistance Center, Stratus Computer, Inc.
Precedence: bulk

You wrote:
> Hi..
> Am still fairly new to this group and have appreicated all the advice I
> have seen posted back and forth among folks..
> I have been asked to take apart and re-lead an early 1800's window..
> The glass is in absolutely lovely pristine condition.. the lead however
> is not.
> It is going to go into my sister's  new house above the front door.
> I am still pretty new to restoration.. Have done some limited work..
> What I am wondering.. what do I use to take off the putty, or
> whatever had been used.. and to begin to take off the old lead so
> that it can be reworked.. etc..
> Advice would be appreciated.. Thank you..
> Barb
> babs@moonlightstudio.com

there was an article a couple of months ago in 'glass craftsman' about a  
restoration of old leaded windows on a riverboat that was being restored.

basically, what they did is soak the windows in a CLR solution for about 6  
hours, which removed lots of the crud and loosened the putty enough to get all  
the glass out. CLR shouldn't affect the glass, although if it were me i'd do  
some testing first.

regards,
charlie
---
Charles Spitzer
charlie@az.stratus.com
Phoenix, AZ
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From owner-glass Tue Apr 28 18:41:50 1998
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From: NCScoutr <NCScoutr@aol.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: NON-glass to Carol R.
Date: Tue, 28 Apr 1998 21:14:33 EDT
Message-ID: <1998Apr29.11433.0>
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From:                 Self <NCScoutr>
To:               glass-request@bungi.com
Subject:          NON-GLASS to: Carol J. Rochnowski
Send reply to:    ncscoutr@beachaccess.com
Date sent:        Sat, 25 Apr 1998 22:41:47 -5

Dear Carol J. Rochnowski,
Will you please e-mail me your e-mail address?? I would love to get 
in touch with you offline!

V T Phelps
Shoreline Glassworks, Ltd.
* Email <shorelineglassworks@unforgettable.com>
* ICQ#:4862021
* WWPager <http://wwp.mirabilis.com/4862021>
* EmailExpress <4862021@pager.mirabilis.com>

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From owner-glass Tue Apr 28 19:08:15 1998
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From: CWWSLW <CWWSLW@aol.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Hand tool
Date: Tue, 28 Apr 1998 21:31:21 EDT
Message-ID: <1998Apr29.13121.0>
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   Well, when I first tried to use my qwik crimp, it was too tight for glass
to go in!!! So I took a small piece of glass with unground edges, no foil on
it, and forced it in. Then I pulled it in and out to shave off a little bit of
the plastic.  Then it was perfect. Since I have been using it, my foil is
burnished to perfection.
  I also have one of glastars foiling machines. I have not been able to get
the hang of this thing. Anyone had luck with these?

Susan
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From owner-glass Tue Apr 28 19:35:52 1998
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From: "Daniel M. German" <dmg@csg.uwaterloo.ca>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain;  charset=iso-8859-1
Subject: Re:soft side (was 28 panels) now diversion
Date: Tue, 28 Apr 1998 20:17:30 -0400
Message-ID: <199804290017.UAA00275@violeta.uwaterloo.ca>
References: <<1998Apr28.32615.0>>
Precedence: bulk


Howard and Elaine Rubin twistes the bytes to say:


 Howard> Because I DO NOT have to own any specific one, I am content to buy for price
 Howard> and re-sell.

Lord Kaynes used to say that the issue is not whether someone is
stupid enough to buy stock at a high price, but whether he or she can
find somebody more stupid who is willing to pay a higher price for
it. I guess that is the secret to be able to succeed in the
collectibles market.


--
Daniel M. German                  "Science can be esoteric
    The Economist ->               technology has to be pragmatic"
http://csgwww.uwaterloo.ca/~dmg/home.html
dmg@csg.uwaterloo.ca

 
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From owner-glass Tue Apr 28 19:44:59 1998
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From: Tim Byrnes <tbyrnes@snet.net>
To: "'glass  list'" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="---- =_NextPart_000_01BD72F0.DAD2AF80"
Subject: Air Brush
Date: Tue, 28 Apr 1998 21:58:23 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr28.175823.0>
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------ =_NextPart_000_01BD72F0.DAD2AF80
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hi Folks,

 Does anyone know where I can purchase, an inexpensive Airbrush that is =
powered by canned Air. I throught I read about one here on the list =
about 6 months ago. =20

 Thank you in advance,
  Tim Byrnes
                   =20
                     
------ =_NextPart_000_01BD72F0.DAD2AF80
Content-Type: application/ms-tnef
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vQEeAD0AAQAAAAEAAAAAAAAA06M=

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From owner-glass Tue Apr 28 20:16:43 1998
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From: byronw@eatumup.com (Byron Wells)
To: "glass@ bungie.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Hand tool
Date: Tue, 28 Apr 1998 19:37:28 -0500
Message-ID: <1998Apr28.143728.0>
Precedence: bulk

I'd have to say my Toyo pistol grip cutter... Anything else is either an
accessory or a luxury... You work at your cutting skill and ya wont need
many other tools..

Byron...

-----Original Message-----
From: fibers <fibers@wcnet.net>
To: glass@ bungie.com <glass@bungi.com>
Date: Monday, April 27, 1998 11:11 AM
Subject: Hand tool


>The discussions on this group is so interesting  and informative that I
>would like to ask another question.
>
>What is your most valuable handtool. Not in $'s but rather in
>usefullness. If it is adapted , please tell us how, if it's made, please
>tell us that too. If it was bought, where?
>Looking forward to the next posts.
>Nelda
>
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From owner-glass Tue Apr 28 21:46:00 1998
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From: pkelly <pkelly@n-link.com>
To: Glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: RE: Airbrush
Date: Tue, 28 Apr 1998 23:19:53 -0500
Message-ID: <1998Apr28.181953.0>
Precedence: bulk

I saw the airbrush Tim  is  referring to in the Hobby Lobby chain store.

Patrick
Roses and Rainbows

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From owner-glass Wed Apr 29 02:30:41 1998
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From: Rick Lasita <pebble@fuse.net>
To: Tim Byrnes <tbyrnes@snet.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Air Brush
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 03:57:43 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr28.235743.0>
References: <<1998Apr28.175823.0>>
Organization: Window Art GLass Studio
Precedence: bulk

Tim Byrnes wrote:
> 
> Hi Folks,
> 
>  Does anyone know where I can purchase, an inexpensive Airbrush that is powered by canned Air. I throught I read about one here on the list about 6 months ago.
> 
>  Thank you in advance,
>   Tim Byrnes
> 
> 
> Tim, you ought to be able to find what you are looking for at any hobby/model shop in your area, and I bet Walmart probably has them too.

Rick
http://home.fuse.net/crafts/
>     ---------------------------------------------------------------
> 
>                 Part 1.2       Type: application/ms-tnef
>                            Encoding: base64
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From owner-glass Wed Apr 29 02:48:49 1998
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From: "studio@stainedglass.co.uk" <studio@stainedglass.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: RE: Airbrush
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 08:44:17 +0100
Message-ID: <1998Apr29.94417.0>
Precedence: bulk

In UK we recommend the abrasive air brush kit made by Badger wchich comes
with a can of propellant and can also be run from a mini compressor.  I
think Badger is a North American company, so the same model is probably
available through any airbrush supplies shop if your stained glass retailer
does not carry it.
Elizabeth & Sam Law (Bournemouth Stained Glass)
790 Wimborne Road Bournemouth Dorset BH9 2DX England
http://www.stainedglass.co.uk

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From owner-glass Wed Apr 29 03:00:22 1998
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From: Rick Lasita <pebble@fuse.net>
To: Babs <babs@moonlightstudio.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Help please.. 1800's window
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 04:10:18 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr29.01018.0>
References: <<1998Apr28.9854.0>>
Organization: Window Art GLass Studio
Precedence: bulk

Barb,

Don't forget to make a rubbing of what you are taking apart before you
do so (learned the hard way here). Clean the panel to remove as much as
the dirt and grime as you can from the panel, and you can use a solvent
such as acetone to soften the solvent. Be sure to wear gloves, and work
in a well ventalated area when using this stuff. Depending on the size,
you can soak it in warm water, this could takea day or two again
depending the the age of the putty. Scrape the putty out from under the
came using a wood or metal pick. I have used old dental tools for this
and it works great. Becareful not to scratch the glass when scraping the
putty out.  Good luck, 
Rick
http://home.fuse.net/crafts/

Babs wrote:
> > I have been asked to take apart and re-lead an early 1800's window..
> The glass is in absolutely lovely pristine condition.. the lead however
> is not.
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From owner-glass Wed Apr 29 08:16:20 1998
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From: Witchdoc3 <Witchdoc3@aol.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re:  Air Brush
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 09:08:56 EDT
Message-ID: <1998Apr29.13856.0>
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Tim Byrnes's enquiring mind wants to know:

>  Does anyone know where I can purchase, an inexpensive
> Airbrush that is powered by canned Air. I throught I read
> about one here on the list about 6 months ago.

First place I'd try would be a hobby shop that specializes in model trains,
airplanes, etc. That's where I got one for my ex a skillion years ago; it was
made by Badger. (Or if you know someone who's a "serious" model railroader and
has the Walthers catalog - the Warner-Crivelaro of model railroading - you
should be able to mail order the thing for a lot less than you'll find it in a
store.)

They can be kind of tricky to use, though - the sprayer head clogs up pretty
easily. The number of new words I learned from hearing my ex cuss it out was
pretty surprising, and I'm no stranger to "colorful language" <g> The thing
spent more time soaking in various paint thinners than it did in actual use.


Sparks
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From owner-glass Wed Apr 29 08:36:22 1998
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From: DMR74 <DMR74@aol.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Last word..as a Teacher...
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 11:00:34 EDT
Message-ID: <1998Apr29.15034.0>
Precedence: bulk

In a message dated 98-04-28 19:59:01 EDT, you write:

> "May I address the Teachers amongst you..."
>  Unquote.
  When I read this I was believeing that you were asking All of us to respond
as the Teachers within our personas, maybe it is our wording as I would have
said, if I only wanted to address professional teachers, 'may I address
teachers on this group only'.  And being on an open group I would have thought
that you might want honest oppinions, not just a narrow view of your problem
and solution.  I felt that maybe you could be more open to the artistic growth
in your student, that of exploreing their ablities and reaching for more.   If
a student, who we all are, doesn't strive for more then we can't grow and
reach higher and higher.  I felt like maybe you were being narrow minded and
not looking at it from your students view.  I also thought that you were more
open to other points of view, I thought that I learned that about you, and
maybe factor in other views to help in your problem.  To me that's what
problem solving involves, listening to all sides and coming to a compromise.  
  Maybe my wording is not delicate, that is not me, but I thought more of you
as a person open for suggestions and views.  When you stated your problem I
put myself in the students shoes and answered.  That is the way the teacher in
me tries to do things.
   I still have both of your letters, the first and your answer to some of the
replies so I don't need to check the archives.  I still don't know what point
I missed.
deb
.....Elisabeth wrote and I'm not sure whether it was private mail or bungi:
I am a bit surprised how this  e-mail came about....
I don't normally get drawn into a pointless argument and rarely do I 
rise to provocation.
But I don't like to be misquoted and then have a tirade based on a 
misunderstanding.

When I raised the subject of my particular problem, in my e-mail 
dated 20th April at 02.04 am, I stated quite specifically in my 
opening statement
QUOTE:
"May I address the Teachers amongst you..."
Unquote.
Check it out for yourself. (Either in Bungi archives, or I can 
re-send you my original e-mail off-group). It pays occasionally to 
read a message thoroughly, before jumping to conclusions; as my old 
boss used to say: "The Devil Sits In the Details"

There are not only newbies, beginners and hobbyists on this list, and 
the odd one out with an axe to grind,  but ALSO professionals and 
teachers. Which is precisely why I qualified my request.

I have had loads of e-mails, suggestions, recommendations and 
constructive ideas (and funny sympathetic thoughts) from people at 
Bungi, including from Australia. I have only had one other person 
telling me what a "cruel" person I am, but who very quickly realized 
exactly what I am about and sent me the most charming and 
irresistable "mea culpa" e-mail. If anyone wants to "flame" me for 
anything I say, then I am only a button away, no lack of courage or 
timidity need to stand in the way. Nobody needs to be afraid. I 
operate an Open House, as most Bunginians know.
I do now have the suggestions and advise I needed, from the people 
able and qualified to give it. Can we now lay this matter to rest.

I'd much rather hear the Adventures of Ray....;-)
Elisabeth 'n Toby in UK


 From:          DMR74 <DMR74@aol.com> To:            
glass@bungi.com Subject:       Re: ...As a Teacher... Conclusion, not 
yet Date:          Tue, 28 Apr 1998 11:35:40 EDT

In a message dated 98-04-20 21:58:18 EDT, you write:

> ..And I was addressing myself to the Teachers amongst us. I am very 
>  well aware what a Learner wants.... I am still a Learner myself.... 
>  even after 25 years.... As I said before, one treads a fine line....  

 
Well your first letter didn't address JUST the teachers amongst us, it seems
you addressed to ALL of bungi for OUR oppinions.  I gave mine and I think
others felt the same way but were afraid to say so.  
>  Deb...I think you missed the point somewhere. I hope you don't mind 
>  me saying that.
 SWOOSH !! I guess I must have.
deb who thought about just going back to lurk but wants to show others that we
are not forced to lurk just because we think others will not like our
oppinions and make us feel inferior because oppinions are what most of us will
learn by
----
----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
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From owner-glass Wed Apr 29 09:10:25 1998
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From: "Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Foiling machines
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 09:45:59 -0400
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Message text written by Susan:
>  I also have one of glastars foiling machines. I have not been able to
get
the hang of this thing. Anyone had luck with these?<

I've had one for 5 years and love it.  I can't do without it.
My assistant hates it.  Won't use it to save her life.  Just
goes to show you different strokes for different folks!

Christie A. Wood, Art Glass Ensembles
4013 Skippack Pike, P.O.Box 903, Skippack, PA 19474-0903
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From owner-glass Wed Apr 29 09:14:30 1998
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From: Witchdoc3 <Witchdoc3@aol.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Hand tool
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 09:09:02 EDT
Message-ID: <1998Apr29.1392.0>
Precedence: bulk

Nelda's enquiring mind wants to know:

> What is your most valuable handtool. Not in $'s but rather in
> usefullness. If it is adapted , please tell us how, if it's made,
> please tell us that too. If it was bought, where?
> Looking forward to the next posts.

Well... I haven't been at this long enough to single out *one* specific hand
tool I can't do without, but other than the basic glass-cutting tools, the
contents of my scrap-wood bin have to be a serious contender (not only for
glass work but for just about everything else my pathologically handy but too-
poor-to-buy-the-right-tool soul gets into).

The foot-long piece that's a 45 degree right triangle cross-section provided
the perfect solution recently when I was grinding some HIGHLY textured glass
for a copperfoil project. I just set the glass up on the angle and ground
those awful ridgies back. That's one scrap that didn't go back into the scrap
bin - it's now got a place of honor in my toolbox!

Other than that, I guess the hand tool I can't live without is usually "the
one I just saw in the hardware store" that I don't have... so much hardware,
so little time... <g>


Sparks
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From owner-glass Wed Apr 29 10:11:59 1998
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From: cpesonen@bcinternet.net (Cindy Pesonen)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re:  Air Brush
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 09:52:31 -0700 (PDT)
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Precedence: bulk

>
>

>Sparks makes some very good comments here:

>They can be kind of tricky to use, though - the sprayer head clogs up pretty
>easily. The thing spent more time soaking in various paint thinners than it
did in actual use.

>Cindy would like to add:
>I've been looking into airbrushes myself and it may pay to pay a wee bit
more for that reason. They can be changed for different mixtures: thin,
thick and thicker?
Also there's dual action and single action, best to get a brush suitable for
the work being done. And I believe most of them can be hooked up to canned air.
IMHO,Cindy
>
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>
>

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From owner-glass Wed Apr 29 12:02:49 1998
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X-Path: az.stratus.com!charlie
From: Charles Spitzer <charlie@az.stratus.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Air Brush
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 98 10:24:07 -0700
Message-ID: <m0yUaaX-000LiCC@why.az.stratus.com>
References: <<1998Apr29.13856.0>>
Organization: Customer Assistance Center, Stratus Computer, Inc.
Precedence: bulk

just happened to be perusing my new catalog (#116) from american science and =
surplus (http://www.sciplus.com) and they have one. p 12. item #23025 for =
$17.50. adaptor #23026 (for connecting to a minicompressor) $1.75.

lots of other goodies in here. how about a roll of white paper, 24"x200' for =
$3.50? rock tumbler, 3lb, for $90? diamond bits(10) for a dremel for $7.50? =
flux brushes(10) for $2.00?

having ordered from them before, they tend to run out of popular stuff, and =
since it's surplus, they don't get any more.

regards,
charlie
---
Charles Spitzer
charlie@az.stratus.com
Phoenix, AZ
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From owner-glass Wed Apr 29 12:15:35 1998
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From: fibers@wcnet.net (fibers)
To: "glass@ bungie.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: hand tools and ?
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 12:19:18 -0500
Message-ID: <1998Apr29.71918.0>
Precedence: bulk

Gee! I've learned a lot from the posts on "your favorite hand tools". I
have a  question  though.
Foiler/crimper:  I have one and do use it sometimes but getting the darn
thing loaded with foil always taxes my patience. Is there an easy way?

Glass cutter:  I have a pistol Toyo but I like the one that has the
'saddle' rest on top. I think it's called "Thomas Grip".

My woodworker husband  gave me a suggestion about increasing the life of
my grinder head. When it begins to wear raise the height of your glass
with a 1/4" wood lath to avoid gring in the same place.

Any one ever used a Fletcher commercial glass cutter? I have one that
will handle glass sizes up to 48X60".
It came used so no instructions were included. Someone told me that they
cut best on the 'up stroke'.
Any suggestions?
TIA
Nelda

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From owner-glass Wed Apr 29 12:31:15 1998
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X-Path: teleport.com!weaver51
From: "Howard and Elaine Rubin" <weaver51@teleport.com>
To: "glass@ bungie.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: lurking/teaching
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 10:04:48 -0700
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If I felt that others not liking and or not agreeing with my opinions, would
relegate me to not saying something/anything, the archives would be a "bit"
smaller!!!

It is too easy to separate segments and not fully read and comprehend what
some else may be trying to relate and take it personally. Once things
degenerate into a personal sparring match, the knowledge originally intended
tends to get lost. Did we not have a bit of friction generated a few months
ago that sorta stemmed from the same type of disagreement of
interpretations?

I do teach, sell, build, negotiate, do shows (one this June in Pebble Beach)
and have been messing around with this CRAFT for about 18 years.
I  feel that each person (teacher) and their students have different needs
and methods of filling those needs (glass of course).
It is not possible to generalize a method to handle all students and their
skills or lack of same, their intent, their tenacity and over-all attitude
to learning. The depth of their financial recklessness is also a
consideration I have to contend with, as we do NO suncatchers or filler
projects from scraps.
I have had handicapped students, young students (right off I explain I am
not a baby-sitter), mature students, ones with attitudes, meek ones and so
forth. I do not gush and stroke for the sake of stroking, but do try to find
a positive comment or aspect of each student's work. I usually bring a few
pieces to show and explain that their first piece will PROBABLY not be quite
as good as mine. I also know that not every student is going to make a
career out of glass and or give up their day job to do this full time. One
of my prior students (middle school a few years ago) is still deeply
involved and is actually doing some glass for money. He, at this point
thinks he will NEVER stop playing with glass....Who knows?

I have not offered any classes for this session and I do miss the glint in a
beginners eye when a piece of glass does what they had intended it to
do...From cradle age until they get to me, they have been warned to stay
away from glass, glass will hurt you, and that it is to be feared. That is a
hard memory to over come.

Enough for now, as I have to break a few pieces of glass.

enjoy, H







weaver51@teleport.com
http://www.teleport.com/~cbs/howard
enmeshed in the internet
trapped in the world wide web


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From owner-glass Wed Apr 29 12:42:03 1998
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From: glasschic <joyce@mail.bright.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Hand tool
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 06:32:45 -0400
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At 09:31 PM 4/28/98 EDT, CWWSLW wrote:
>   Well, when I first tried to use my qwik crimp, it was too tight for glass
>to go in!!! So I took a small piece of glass with unground edges, no foil on
>it, and forced it in. Then I pulled it in and out to shave off a little
bit of
>the plastic.  Then it was perfect. Since I have been using it, my foil is
>burnished to perfection.
>  I also have one of glastars foiling machines. I have not been able to get
>the hang of this thing. Anyone had luck with these?
>
>Susan

It amazes me that one manufacturer can make the same tool as another and
they will both work a little differently and entice a different group of
people to use it.  I started with the Glastar foiling machine, and could
never quite figure out the thrill of it, so I gave it away.  Later I bought
the Inland foiler, and I love it and use it all the time!  I have
recommended it to my students also, and a lot of them have it sitting on a
shelf somewhere, never being used. I think part of the problem with the
gadgets, is that you have to figure them out, and lots of people don't want
to take that time.  But once you have done that.....whew!!!  it is amazing
what they can do for you!

Garden of Glass
Joyce Moran


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From owner-glass Wed Apr 29 12:43:23 1998
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X-Path: indiana.edu!dfdavis
From: donald f davis <dfdavis@indiana.edu>
To: Byron Wells <byronw@eatumup.com>
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Hand tool
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 13:43:06 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1998Apr29.8436.0>
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Tool Related question.....
Is anyone using one of the home/hobbiest type of beveling machine.  I know
inland and diamond tech makes one.  I am interested in making some
non-standard beveled pieces.  

Don.....

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From owner-glass Wed Apr 29 13:00:55 1998
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X-Path: CapAccess.org!rejones
From: "Robert E. Jones" <rejones@CapAccess.org>
To: "Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Foiling machines
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 14:52:39 -0400 (EDT)
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References: <<1998Apr29.54559.0>>
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On Wed, 29 Apr 1998, Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo wrote:

> Message text written by Susan:
> >  I also have one of glastars foiling machines. I have not been able to
> get
> the hang of this thing. Anyone had luck with these?<
> 
> I've had one for 5 years and love it.  I can't do without it.
> My assistant hates it.  Won't use it to save her life.  Just
> goes to show you different strokes for different folks!

I was taking a class when introduced to the foiling machine.  The 
instructor told us that when he first started using it he hated it.  Then 
one day something clicked and he can't do without it.

I got one and it took several projects before I got it.  Then all of a 
sudden I love it.

Stick with it.  You will probably start to get it.  I does make things go 
faster.

Bob

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From owner-glass Wed Apr 29 13:04:42 1998
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From: cpesonen@bcinternet.net (Cindy Pesonen)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: glass combing
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 09:38:43 -0700 (PDT)
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Hi Guys,
After 5 years (or slightly more) of owning my kiln I did some glass combing
at 1700' with Spectrum, two layers thick. And just like in G.Reynolds book:)
But I had a couple of holes; one in the top and one in the bottom, about
1.25" dia. Not bubbles...complete holes. I'm assuming it was gas build up
underneath with nowhere to go but up, but there was no mention of cutting
the bottom glass for that reason. Also the red (it was red and white) seems
to change color at 1700', but does not at 1500'. Hmmm, kinda a bummer, but
the whole process was real neat. We had made a hook for combing with a blunt
end like a flat screw driver (like mentioned) but it should have a small
point because I ended up with a blob of melted glass at the end of my
combing, instead of coming to a nice crisp edge. What surprized me was the
red never crystalized (red has alot of lead in it??) The white sort of lost
it's shine, but I was expecting to sandblast it afterwards.
Really hot work...especially on the face, but it was relatively easy for a
chicken like me!!
It's too bad Spectrum doesn't make thinner glass, haven't figured out what
to do with this piece, maybe an anchor for a small boat?
Cindy 

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From owner-glass Wed Apr 29 13:33:25 1998
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X-Path: ll.mit.edu!cogen
From: David Cogen <cogen@ll.mit.edu>
To: fibers@wcnet.net
Subject: Re: hand tools and ?
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 98 15:59:15 -0400
Message-ID: <9804291559.AA16480@LL.MIT.EDU>
References: <<1998Apr29.71918.0>>
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> My woodworker husband  gave me a suggestion about increasing the life of
> my grinder head. When it begins to wear raise the height of your glass
> with a 1/4" wood lath to avoid gring in the same place.
 
I believe that's not necessary on most grinders. Most grinders permit the head
to be loostened and moved up or down to a new position.
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From owner-glass Wed Apr 29 14:59:00 1998
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From: Family Account <shad@mail2.nai.net>
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Subject: Hey, Howard
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 16:57:43 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr29.125743.0>
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So, i'm talking to the owner of a local store.  She's telling me about
her new computer, but she isn't online yet.  She said that one of her
students showed her a print out of some pages with beautiful lamps on
them.  "Some man out west, Washington or Oregon."  So I said, "Oh,
yeah.  That's Howard Rubin." and she said, That's it!"  So, Howard, I
want you to know that your fame is spreading (and work is appreciated).

Dorothy K

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From owner-glass Wed Apr 29 15:24:40 1998
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From: "Michael J. Greer" <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Re: Hand tool
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 17:43:25 -0400
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Hi Byron-

What about a soldering iron?;-)

Best,

Dani Greer
Greer Gallery & Studios
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From owner-glass Wed Apr 29 15:54:40 1998
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From: Whispy Blu <WhispyBlu@aol.com>
To: fibers@wcnet.net, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: hand tools and ?
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 18:15:09 EDT
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In a message dated 4/29/98 2:16:32 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
fibers@wcnet.net writes:

<<  increasing the life of
 my grinder head. When it begins to wear raise the height of your glass
 with a 1/4" wood lath to avoid gring in the same place. >>

Why not adjust your grinding head up or down, rather than raising the
glass????

Lu Ann <Whispy Blu@aol.com>
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From owner-glass Wed Apr 29 16:28:29 1998
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Lead free solder
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 23:06:56 +0100
Message-ID: <1998Apr30.0656.0>
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Can anyone help?
Lead free solder is supposed to be safer than ordinary.  But, what does
lead free solder have in it?  Are the metals any safer than lead?
Steve
-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Wed Apr 29 16:48:00 1998
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From: Mosfunland <Mosfunland@aol.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: hand tools and ?
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 19:10:33 EDT
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Once upon a time I had to raise my grinder head.......not knowing it would
eventually take a crowbar and soft tapping equidistantly around that puppy to
get it to budge....

So I guess i could add a crowbar to my handiest tools.....

Maureen
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From owner-glass Wed Apr 29 16:57:18 1998
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From: Mosfunland <Mosfunland@aol.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Fallingwater......the last part of the trilogy
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 19:08:04 EDT
Message-ID: <1998Apr29.2384.0>
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     Actually Fallingwater was exactly the description for the weather after
we stirred up the lower atmospheres with dust from the lumbermill........  We
awakened to an uncertain forecast on Sunday.  Since the design of the Holiday
Inn prevented us from looking anywhere but outside, we just assumed
(correctly) that it was still raining.  This Holiday Inn was built with all of
the rooms opening out into a courtyard of sorts, with a lovely pool and
whirlpool, eatting area, pool table all viewable from our front door, with the
backdoor opening into the hallway.  The entire sheeebang was enclosed by a
concrete roof, with occasional skylights, thus,  figuring out the weather for
the day was dependent upon where the skylight was in relation to your
room....or who had control of the remote control for the weather channel....
      We were fully recovered from the trip up-down-up1/2-down1/2 the
mountain.  In fact while I was worrying that we might just die on that
mountain, my roomate was only worried about getting the roomservice order for
our breakfast out on the doornob...  We enjoyed our wonderfully high
cholesterol breakfast, which was delivered intact excepting someone's teabags
which was unforgiveable....prompting the roomservice youngster to deliver
another set....it was becomming enjoyable actually having these young men
bring nice things to our room.....lol.... She took great delight in writing
her critique of the portebello mushrooms,  even offering preparation tips for
the chef.  I figure those mushrooms were probably growing in the basement
somewhere, just waiting for someone to order them....and not counting on the
kid dropping them on the way to our room, the chef scrambled to prepare new
ones...or washed and reassembled the old ones....
       Ray appeared to have fully recouped his sense of direction that
morning.  I guess since he covered about every street in Uniontown by this
time, he knew his way around...and out of Uniontown.  And we were accompanied
by the ever present rain.  I had only seen pictures of Frank Lloyds Wrights
Fallingwater, so I was totally unprepared for this treat.  You see this
incredibly financially fortunate family hired him to build them a vacation
home, keeping their favorite waterfall in mind.  He being a man of great
vision built it onto the falls.  I had to keep reminding myself that these
"digs" went up in the '30s.  Some of today's architects must have skipped the
class on good design keeping with the enviornment, but thats just my citywize
opinion.  The rockbed is accessible directly from the living room down steps
which deposit you directly into the stream.  There are two pools on the
property fed by natural spring water.  The interior is constructed to allow
visualization of the beautiful rhods and mountain laurels which surround the
building.  Frank didn't care for screens...the family and him had a discussion
about that at one point...seems the flow of nature became too much....   Have
a look at this website:
http://i31www.ira.uka.de/~rweber/architecture/flw_fallingw.html

just highlight, copy and paste to your browser directional finder thing.....

     We wandered about the house, with an ever watchful guide, we were not to
touch anything....you see the son, left the house to the Conservancy to take
care of the house and property, just as the family had left it.  Books are
out, dishes, a piano, even the woods he used in the building scream out to be
touched, but thats a no-no.

     On the trek back up the hill to the bus, I wondered if Ray had a wench to
pull me back up the path.....being as physically unfit as I have ever been in
my life....
      The rain was gentle at this point, and it just seems to make this
wonderful place all the more interesting. Memories of walking with my
grandfather through the Wissahickon woods came to mind.  Great memories of
childhood summers spent on grand walks throughout their neighborhood and into
Manayunk.  We were the last group to tour the building, we quickly grabbed
some mementos (two small bells to hang in my garden)...and we were on our way
back home.  However the road OUT of the Fallingwater tourist center was only
wide enough for one bus, so when another bus was headed toward us, Ray became
quite animated, and I wondered who would blink first.  (they backed up).

  I have had the pleasure to spend my weekend with a great group of people,
with diverse backgrounds, dayjobs, and personal stories.  No different than
any of us encounter I suppose, but special in a fleeting way.  I had a
welcomed relief from the grind back here in Philadelphia.  The rain came home
with us....  The Warners allowed us to pitstop at their facility, we thanked
them once again for their wonderful hospitality,  we were soaking wet, tired,
but filled with great memories.  Oh yeah, we hit the local WA-WA ,  filled up
our carcups with coffee and drove down the turnpike to the music of the
windshield wipers and soft jazz.....

Maureen
           its all dedicated to anyone who has been lost at one time or
another...
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From owner-glass Wed Apr 29 17:28:49 1998
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From: Whispy Blu <WhispyBlu@aol.com>
To: Mosfunland@aol.com, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: hand tools and ?
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 19:54:43 EDT
Message-ID: <1998Apr29.235443.0>
Precedence: bulk

In a message dated 4/29/98 6:49:05 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
Mosfunland@aol.com writes:

<< not knowing it would
 eventually take a crowbar and soft tapping equidistantly around that puppy to
 get it to budge.... >>

A little vaseline  around the shank and in the heads opening does wonders for
keeping it from sticking.

Lu Ann<Whispy Blu@aol.com>
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From owner-glass Wed Apr 29 17:47:04 1998
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From: CWWSLW <CWWSLW@aol.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: hand tools and ?
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 20:04:16 EDT
Message-ID: <1998Apr30.0416.0>
Precedence: bulk

    I work at a custom frame shop. We use a Fletcher cutter 48 x 60. I've
always cut from top to bottom. Never even thought of bottom to top !! We use
carbide wheels to score with.

Susan


Any one ever used a Fletcher commercial glass cutter? I have one that
will handle glass sizes up to 48X60".
It came used so no instructions were included. Someone told me that they
cut best on the 'up stroke'.
Any suggestions?
TIA
Nelda
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From owner-glass Wed Apr 29 18:08:17 1998
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From: Hi imLaura <HiimLaura@aol.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: hand tools and ?
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 19:50:56 EDT
Message-ID: <1998Apr29.235056.0>
Precedence: bulk

I found out that my grinder head was adjustable when it came loose one day
when I was grinding and I freaked out. Hadta be there, I guess.

Laura
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From owner-glass Wed Apr 29 18:42:30 1998
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Lead free solder
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@pop3.nildram.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 01:59:18 +0000
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Hi Steve,

Safer?
No not really,  Tin-poisoning...!? Who knows??
Non-lead solder used mainly for soldering materials in direct 
contact with skin or ingestion ( taste-buds).
Supposed to delay us from getting "ga-ga" that much quicker.....
Remember the days of aluminium sauce-pans...?
Apparently, aluminium  is a main source for giving us Alzheimers.
Now we are told that  smokers  contract Alzheimers far less than 
non-smokers.....
Common sense and moderation in all,  probably 
the best policy in the long run......
Whatever we do in life, we are bound to be poisoned - one way or
another - no matter what or by what. 
In any case, I find non-lead solder a "pig" to work with....

My 2 irreverant cents worth
Elisabeth 'n Toby in UK

Steve wrote:
Can anyone help? Lead free 
solder is supposed to be safer than ordinary.  But, what does lead 
free solder have in it?  Are the metals any safer than lead? Steve
-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
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From owner-glass Wed Apr 29 19:02:46 1998
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From: Gloria & George <3hounds@usaor.net>
To: "'bungians'" <glass@bungi.com>
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Subject: subscribers of @netchannel 
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 21:09:08 -0100
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Hi guys,
At Christmas I bought 2  RCA units for the Internet.. These were  units, =
the box was the size of a large book, that attached to your TV and =
enabled your TV to access the Internet with the proper access charge and =
a telephone line with a keyless remote keyboard..  One of the owners of  =
my present called today, and told me  that RCA was cancelling this =
program as of May 1..   Are any of the bungi experiencing the same =
problem.. when I bought the RCA, Sony  and Phillips Magnavox had the =
same /similar units..  I had only seen one advertisement in the States =
back in the November.. I read an ad that Japan was installing this big =
time..   I was always thinking this was a great access to e mail and the =
WEB.
Thanks
Gloria.
Sorry, I know this is not glass related, but it may affect many of the =
subscribers of the bungi group.. and therefore, the help of many =
members.
   =20
                                                     
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From owner-glass Wed Apr 29 19:51:03 1998
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From: fibers@wcnet.net (fibers)
To: "glass@ bungie.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: grinder head
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 20:10:09 -0500
Message-ID: <1998Apr29.15109.0>
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I told you folks that I was a newbie at stained glass. Now I guess
you'll believe me. I didn't even know there was a set screw. Thanks for
the info.
Nelda

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From owner-glass Wed Apr 29 21:26:17 1998
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From: cpesonen@bcinternet.net (Cindy Pesonen)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: hand tools and ?
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 19:17:39 -0700 (PDT)
Message-ID: <199804300217.TAA14198@ns2.vphos.net>
Precedence: bulk

>
Maureen tells a tale sad and true, it's happened to me, hope it doesn't
happen to you!

Yep, was I bewildered as I thought my grinder head was stuck there forever.
Aleast Maureen, you were calm and cool about it, I got kinda worried and
smacked it silly with a BIG hammer.
I'm kinda fond of that hammer, seems when all else fails my hammer works for me.
(if I've blasted something and don't like it, hammer is the best tool)
Crowbar sounds pretty cool, one can only imagine what else it can do...
crimper-burnisher for the extra large foiling jobs??
Smiles, Cindy
>
Maureen had said:

>Once upon a time I had to raise my grinder head.......not knowing it would
>eventually take a crowbar and soft tapping equidistantly around that puppy to
>get it to budge....
>So I guess i could add a crowbar to my handiest tools.....
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>
>

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From owner-glass Wed Apr 29 21:34:15 1998
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X-Path: juno.com!dodgestudio
From: dodgestudio@juno.com
To: s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
Subject: Re: Lead free solder
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 22:05:15 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr29.18515.0>
References: <<1998Apr30.0656.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Steve,

Formulations vary, but typical is 95% tin, 4% copper and 1% silver.  Some
have 1/2 of a % antimony thrown in, etc.

(I've heard that antimony is not the best stuff for you, but it's in some
of the lead solder as well, and in quantities of less than 1%, they don't
even list it on the label.


Gary Dodge              Dodge Studio Designs

http://www.dodgestudio.com

 Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk> writes:
>Can anyone help?
>Lead free solder is supposed to be safer than ordinary.  But, what 
>does
>lead free solder have in it?  Are the metals any safer than lead?
>Steve
>-- 
>Steve Richard
>Verrier Art Glass Ltd
>s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk

_____________________________________________________________________
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From owner-glass Wed Apr 29 21:43:27 1998
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From: dodgestudio@juno.com
To: fibers@wcnet.net
Subject: Re: hand tools and ?
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 22:09:03 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr29.1893.0>
References: <<1998Apr29.71918.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Nelda,

I don't remember if this is what it says on the package, but I double the
last inch or so of  the foil against itself to make it stiffer, then I
cut it to a point so that it slips easily past the rollers.


Gary Dodge              Dodge Studio Designs

http://www.dodgestudio.com

>I
>have a  question  though.
>Foiler/crimper:  I have one and do use it sometimes but getting the 
>darn
>thing loaded with foil always taxes my patience. Is there an easy way?
>
>

_____________________________________________________________________
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From owner-glass Wed Apr 29 21:44:50 1998
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From: dodgestudio@juno.com
To: Mosfunland@aol.com
Subject: Re: hand tools and ?
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 22:02:11 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr29.18211.0>
References: <<1998Apr29.231033.0>>
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Maureen,

Someone submitted a tip to our website about using soldering iron tip
anti-seize compound on the grinder head shaft and screw to prevent it
from seizing up.


Gary Dodge              Dodge Studio Designs

http://www.dodgestudio.com

On Wed, 29 Apr 1998 19:10:33 EDT Mosfunland <Mosfunland@aol.com> writes:
>Once upon a time I had to raise my grinder head.......not knowing it 
>would
>eventually take a crowbar and soft tapping equidistantly around that 
>puppy to
>get it to budge....
>
>So I guess i could add a crowbar to my handiest tools.....
>
>Maureen

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From owner-glass Wed Apr 29 21:56:15 1998
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Subject: Re: grinder head
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 22:59:36 EDT
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In a message dated 4/29/98 9:51:31 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
fibers@wcnet.net writes:

<< I told you folks that I was a newbie at stained glass. Now I guess
 you'll believe me. I didn't even know there was a set screw. Thanks for
 the info.
 Nelda >>

Hang in there Nelda!!!!  At some point all of us have been "there".  Isn't it
great to have a place like bungi to get help!!!!  Keep sharing and asking
questions......we all learn from each other.

Lu Ann <Whispy Blu@aol.com>
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From owner-glass Thu Apr 30 02:32:45 1998
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
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Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Hand tool
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@pop3.nildram.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 10:06:21 +0000
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Weellll, Dani,
I define hand-tool as something that - at a pinch - I could make 
myself.
A soldering iron....?
I am not an electrician, nor a gas-trician ( if there was such a 
word)..
I could possibly collect a piece of iron roughly at a triangular 
shape; encase it into a fire-proof heavy-duty wire and push a piece 
of wood at the end to force it into the service of a crude soldering 
iron (given the hot-hot charcoal fire to  get it going).
But even I am NOT that stone-age.
But I couldn't possibly MAKE my own 20th century soldering iron.
Hence - to me - that's hardly a "hand-tool". It's a piece of 20th 
century electrical engineering
Thank God! Couldn't do without it.
A hand tool to me is something that has nothing to do with 
computers, electrics or electronics. It's a very basic, crude even,  
bit of a piece that does the work 100 times better than some "clever 
clog's thinga-me-jig",  marketed at several  1000 times the actual
cost......

Ducking.... waiting for the deluge...
Elisabeth 'n Toby in Stone-Age (?) UK

Dani wrote:
What about a soldering iron?;-)

----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
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From owner-glass Thu Apr 30 06:38:24 1998
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Hand tool
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 09:26:13 -0400
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donald f davis wrote:
> 
> Tool Related question.....
> Is anyone using one of the home/hobbiest type of beveling machine.  I know
> inland and diamond tech makes one.  I am interested in making some
> non-standard beveled pieces.
> 
> Don.....
> 
> ----

i have the diamond tech one. for me, it's difficult to use, it tends to
really scratch up the glass. plus the paper sometimes explodes if it
even get's a microtear. though some people have good luck with it.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
2-2-98 New Pages Added: 22 New Stained Glass Links, 7 New Projects Added
and My Updated Shop Photo's
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From owner-glass Thu Apr 30 07:06:24 1998
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From: "Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: glass combing
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 09:27:09 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr30.5279.0>
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Message text written by Cindy Pesonen
>It's too bad Spectrum doesn't make thinner glass, haven't figured out wh=
at
to do with this piece, maybe an anchor for a small boat?<

How about creating an abstract panel using the combed piece
as the focal point?  Maybe add in a sliced agate or two.

Christie A. Wood, Art Glass Ensembles
4013 Skippack Pike, P.O.Box 903, Skippack, PA 19474-0903
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From owner-glass Thu Apr 30 07:30:53 1998
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From: "Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
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Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Re: Lead free solder
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 09:27:11 -0400
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Message text written by Elisabeth:
>In any case, I find non-lead solder a "pig" to work with....<

Me too.  Yuck.  Very sticky.

Christie A. Wood, Art Glass Ensembles
4013 Skippack Pike, P.O.Box 903, Skippack, PA 19474-0903
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From owner-glass Thu Apr 30 07:45:29 1998
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To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: hand tools and ?
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 09:33:14 -0400
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Precedence: bulk

Mosfunland wrote:
> 
> Once upon a time I had to raise my grinder head.......not knowing it would
> eventually take a crowbar and soft tapping equidistantly around that puppy to
> get it to budge....
> 
> So I guess i could add a crowbar to my handiest tools.....
> 
> Maureen
> ----

that's why you need to put the antifreeze compound on it. also removing
it from time to time, also helps.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
2-2-98 New Pages Added: 22 New Stained Glass Links, 7 New Projects Added
and My Updated Shop Photo's
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From owner-glass Thu Apr 30 08:41:12 1998
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From: DMR74 <DMR74@aol.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: hand tools and ?
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 11:07:19 EDT
Message-ID: <1998Apr30.15719.0>
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In a message dated 98-04-30 00:45:23 EDT, you write:

> Someone submitted a tip to our website about using soldering iron tip
>  anti-seize compound on the grinder head shaft and screw to prevent it
>  from seizing up.
>  
you just got me in reverse... I put the "anti-seive" (another brand) on my
grinder but never thought of it for the iron guess I will have to do that next
deb
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From owner-glass Thu Apr 30 08:56:48 1998
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From: Linda Campbell <lcbell@memach.com>
To: "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>,
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: RE: glass combing
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 11:22:17 -0400
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 I didn't understand much of this post (hot owrk related) except that it =
would be nice if Spectrum made thinner glass. When I was at Blenko in =
West Virginia I bought Antique Water glass sheets that are hand blown =
and rolled. It is much thinner than Spectrum in fact I had to use 1/8" =
foil when I used it. I don't know what properites you are lookin for but =
it is beautiful glass.

Linda Campbell

It's too bad Spectrum doesn't make thinner glass, haven't figured out =
what
to do with this piece, maybe an anchor for a small boat?
Cindy=20

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From owner-glass Thu Apr 30 10:12:33 1998
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To: "Glass" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Hand Tools
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 08:43:00 -0700
Message-ID: <1998Apr30.1430.0>
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Have Loved this thread - my favorite hand tools are my fingers!  They seem
to do most everything for me - sometimes with an implement, sometimes
without.  I also couldn't do much without a pencil and paper as I'm always
changing something and of course my cutter!
Namaste'    Carol

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From owner-glass Thu Apr 30 11:46:52 1998
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From: "Michael J. Greer" <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: "INTERNET:alewis@vgernet.net" <alewis@vgernet.net>
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Subject: IGGA News Memo
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 14:01:18 -0400
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Hi All-

Thanks, Albert, for the great job
on our new guild web site!  Wish =

I'd gotten this done a year ago.
Took me that long to get photos
to Albert, then it took him less
than a week for our page and
that includes mailing time!  Now
that's service!!:-)

Best regards,

Dani Greer
Greer Gallery & Studios
http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/greer/
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From owner-glass Thu Apr 30 14:50:14 1998
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Re: hand tools and ?
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 17:20:08 -0400
Message-ID: <1998Apr30.13208.0>
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DMR74 wrote:
> 
> In a message dated 98-04-30 00:45:23 EDT, you write:
> 
> > Someone submitted a tip to our website about using soldering iron tip
> >  anti-seize compound on the grinder head shaft and screw to prevent it
> >  from seizing up.
> >
> you just got me in reverse... I put the "anti-seive" (another brand) on my
> grinder but never thought of it for the iron guess I will have to do that next
> deb
> ----


i personally never liked putting anti-seize on the iron, it smoked to
much for me (even the heat proof stuff).

---Mike Savad

-- 
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http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
2-2-98 New Pages Added: 22 New Stained Glass Links, 7 New Projects Added
and My Updated Shop Photo's
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From owner-glass Thu Apr 30 18:17:17 1998
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From: byronw@eatumup.com (Byron Wells)
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Hand tool
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 19:57:00 -0500
Message-ID: <1998Apr30.14570.0>
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He,he... Ya got me there Dani! Could cut a thousand feet of glass and would
have nothing to tie it all together..

-----Original Message-----
From: Michael J. Greer <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: glass@bungi.com <glass@bungi.com>
Date: Wednesday, April 29, 1998 9:33 AM
Subject: Re: Hand tool


>Hi Byron-
>
>What about a soldering iron?;-)
>
>Best,
>
>Dani Greer
>Greer Gallery & Studios
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From owner-glass Thu Apr 30 19:17:55 1998
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Subject: Re: Hand tool
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 21:43:23 EDT
Message-ID: <1998May1.14323.0>
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Yep. Sounds like the same thing as my glastar. I've never been able to get the
hang of it. Any tips you can give on using it would be appreciated.
Susan
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From owner-glass Thu Apr 30 19:36:54 1998
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From: byronw@eatumup.com (Byron Wells)
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Home Beveling Machine,Was Re: Hand tool
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 20:15:39 -0500
Message-ID: <1998Apr30.151539.0>
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Ive got one of those add-on beveling kits that fits an Inland Twin Spin...
Seems to work fine but since it is small it is a bit slow... It comes with 2
diamond coated heads that are already the right angle for standard bevels
and it will put a 1/2" wide bevel 3/16 or 1/4 inch glass.. It comes with a
flat polishing head so if you plan to do inside curves you have to buy an
optional polishing head for those. I just use my Gemstone polisher
instead... Like I said it works fine if you arent in a hurry and dont have a
lot to bevel.. I mainly use it to modify stock bevels and do repairs...
Large jobs I form out to a large local flat glass company and just add in
the cost to the job.. I just subbed out a 1000" job to them last
week..Figgured it would take me several years with my little beveler..

Some day when I have much more money and room I'll get some real bevelers..

Byron...
Wells Glassworks


-----Original Message-----
From: donald f davis <dfdavis@indiana.edu>
To: Byron Wells <byronw@eatumup.com>
Cc: glass@ bungie.com <glass@bungi.com>
Date: Wednesday, April 29, 1998 5:45 AM
Subject: Re: Hand tool


>Tool Related question.....
>Is anyone using one of the home/hobbiest type of beveling machine.  I know
>inland and diamond tech makes one.  I am interested in making some
>non-standard beveled pieces.
>
>Don.....
>

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From owner-glass Thu Apr 30 20:24:33 1998
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From: cpesonen@bcinternet.net (Cindy Pesonen)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: RE: glass combing
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 19:45:43 -0700 (PDT)
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>Thanks Linda,
I was fusing some glass together and taking a hook thru it to pull the glass
in a certain direction. It looks pretty neat, the colors get dragged
downwards. Not really combing, cos a comb has many teeth, but that's what
they call it.
Must be pretty darn nice to pop into Blenko and look over some glass!!
Wasser makes thin glass for fusing and Bullseye, but I hadn't tried any yet.
Usually I just slump float glass (window glass) after I've carved my design.
Cindy
PS Christie got my brain rolling this morning and I'm working on her idea:)
Back to fusing tomorrow!!!!
Thanks for all the input.
>
>Linda had said:
> I didn't understand much of this post (hot owrk related) except that it =
>would be nice if Spectrum made thinner glass. When I was at Blenko in =
>West Virginia I bought Antique Water glass sheets that are hand blown =
>and rolled. It is much thinner than Spectrum in fact I had to use 1/8" =
>foil when I used it. I don't know what properites you are lookin for but =
>it is beautiful glass.
>
>
>
>
>
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>
>
>
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>
>

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From owner-glass Thu Apr 30 21:54:21 1998
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From: PUZZY KATZ <PUZZYKATZ@aol.com>
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Subject: Re: Hand tool
Date: Fri, 1 May 1998 00:13:46 EDT
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i saw a beveling grinder bit in the delphi catolog pg 112
 
hope this helps 

Puzzy
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