From owner-glass Sat Nov  1 03:32:29 1997
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X-Path: juno.com!debbiesgarden
From: debbiesgarden@juno.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Frames
Date: Sat, 01 Nov 1997 06:30:57 EST
Message-ID: <1997Nov1.113057.0>
References: <<199710291132.GAA08530@ns.computer.net>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I am curious about how others frame their free-hanging panels. I've been
buying 6ft long stained glass framing wood and cutting them to size or
buying pre-cut pieces, but I'm getting bored with it. I've seen some
pretty picture frames, but I like my backs to look just like my fronts.
I've seen some really nice molding strips at the hardware store that I
would love to frame my work.  Any ideas?
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From owner-glass Sat Nov  1 04:39:33 1997
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X-Path: ComCAT.COM!suzy
From: suzanne albright <suzy@ComCAT.COM>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: Frames
Date: Sat, 1 Nov 97 07:41:05 -0400
Message-ID: <199711011238.HAA20948@uz.ComCAT.COM>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


Debbie,

I myself like the glass framed in a narrow strip of zinc or copper. It 
seems to keep the glass with a light and airy look rather than "framed." 
But that's only my personal opinion. 

Suzanne

>I am curious about how others frame their free-hanging panels. I've been
>buying 6ft long stained glass framing wood and cutting them to size or
>buying pre-cut pieces, but I'm getting bored with it. I've seen some
>pretty picture frames, but I like my backs to look just like my fronts.
>I've seen some really nice molding strips at the hardware store that I
>would love to frame my work.  Any ideas?
>


Suzanne Albright
suzydotcom
"A thing of beauty is a joy forever."



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From owner-glass Sat Nov  1 07:13:54 1997
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X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: "INTERNET:glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Frames
Date: Sat, 1 Nov 1997 10:12:22 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov1.51222.0>
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Precedence: bulk

I use Northern Hardwoods stained glass framing stock
in the 6' lengths, or their pre-cut and metered stock.  Very
nice.  But occasionally I reuse an old oak picture frame.
I add a piece of molding from a home improvement center
to finish off the back.  It looks very nice.  Just remember to
remove all UPC code labels from the molding prior to
installation.  I made the mistake of leaving one on once, and
it ended up showing through a yellow cathedral piece.
Bummer.

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
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From owner-glass Sat Nov  1 07:14:31 1997
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From: "Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
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Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Cutting glare on old panel
Date: Sat, 1 Nov 1997 10:12:26 -0500
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Thanks to all who responded to my inquiry about
cutting down on the glare through an old panel.
I will go with plating an extra layer of frosted glass
on the back.

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
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From owner-glass Sat Nov  1 07:22:04 1997
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X-Path: mail.island.net!seaspray
From: seaspray@mail.island.net (Carol Swann)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Frames
Date: Sat, 1 Nov 1997 07:21:03 -0800
Message-ID: <199711011521.HAA08785@norm.island.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

>I am curious about how others frame their free-hanging panels. I've been
>buying 6ft long stained glass framing wood and cutting them to size or
>buying pre-cut pieces, but I'm getting bored with it. I've seen some
>pretty picture frames, but I like my backs to look just like my fronts.
>I've seen some really nice molding strips at the hardware store that I
>would love to frame my work.  Any ideas?

You could try leaving them with zinc U channel frames exposed instead of
hiding them in the wood.  It gives a nice sleek edge to the piece and leaves
it is less defined than a wood frame.  In that case, pay attention to how
you design your border in as it's what the eye will see as the frame.  Or on
a piece without borders the zinc also can look great.

Or how about doing some free-form panels...I've done a lot of those and
either framed them in lead or left them exposed, depending on the piece.  

My storefront is in an artisan's co-op and we have some pretty awesome
woodworkers.  I've had wood milled up out of different woods, and with
different profiles to keep things interesting.  I'm also doing a bit of
experimentation with driftwood and glass.  Also see Bob Oddy's
website...he's in this month's Common Ground magazine and was discussed a
lot recently on the group (see the archives) as he uses bark sometimes for
frames and interest in the panels.

And just yesterday, I teamed up with a twig furniture maker to do a twig
frame for a smallish piece.  It looks great and we're going to do more
collaboration on this idea.

What about using black patina on the solder lines and finishing the piece in
bright brass U channel...could give a nice modern look.  My apologies to the
purists on the group...I like to experiment.

Let your imagination go hog wild and then figure out how to make it work!!

Cheers

Carol Swann
Synergy Glass & Creative

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From owner-glass Sat Nov  1 09:34:00 1997
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X-Path: ix.netcom.com!izzy3
From: izzy3@ix.netcom.com (Michael Smoucha)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Repairs
Date: Sat, 1 Nov 1997 11:19:59 -0600 (CST)
Message-ID: <199711011719.LAA28593@dfw-ix3.ix.netcom.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

You wrote: 
>
>W
>The right way: Remove all the glass and lead until you can get to the
>broken piece. Replace it, and all the rest of the lead. Re-putty the
>darn thing. You'll sleep better. If'n you have to have the money, then
>there's an alternative. Don't foil it in! You take a utility knife 
with
>a sharp blade and CAREFULLY cut away the top leaf of the lead that
>surrounds the entire broken piece.
>Then take the broken piece out. Now, using a razor blade, shave off 
the
>top off the channel until it is flush with the glass. Are you with me 
so
>far? If the panel has been grouted then make sure you remove all the
>grout. Then cut a piece of glass to fit back in. Simple. Don't foil 
it!
>And now you take a new piece of lead and using your trusty Stanton
>Stretcher, stretch it.
>Then you take the old utility knife with a sharp blade and CAREFULLY 
cut
>one of the leafs off.
>Bend the thing to fit where the old lead came off from. DON"T solder
>anything yet. Then apply a smidgen of clear 100% silicone to the back 
of
>the leaf of NEW lead. Stick it down. Resolder all the joints. Wait 24
>hours for the silicone to dry.
>Then putty up.
>I can't believe someone would want to foil in a piece for a leaded
>repair. Granted, foil and lead can provide an interesting duo. But for 
a
>repair?
>Look-you get paid to do a job. Do it right. Believe me, a half way job
>will come back to haunt you. If your customer doesn't want to pay you
>for your time to do the job right then send'em lookin' else where. And
>for all you kids just learnin'...there's lots a techniques, nothin'
>wrong with'em, good to know'em, learn'em. As long as they lead to the
>RIGHT results! Do that in everything you do.
>Cody
>
>"One of the best things about doin' the job right is standing back and
>saying to yourself..."Hey-I did the job right."
>


You can't be serious. Hope no one takes this advise.

ms

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From owner-glass Sat Nov  1 09:35:14 1997
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X-Path: prodigy.com!YWAH36A
From: YWAH36A@prodigy.com ( BOB   DUCHESNEAU)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Frames
Date: Sat,  1 Nov 1997 12:30:23, -0500
Message-ID: <199711011730.MAA14288@mime4.prodigy.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Debbie wrote:
I am curious about how others frame their free-hanging panels. I've 
been
buying 6ft long stained glass framing wood and cutting them to size 
or
buying pre-cut pieces, but I'm getting bored with it. I've seen some
pretty picture frames, but I like my backs to look just like my 
fronts.
I've seen some really nice molding strips at the hardware store that 
I
would love to frame my work.  Any ideas?

Bob writes,
  I also use a lot of wood frame stock. IMO a free hanging panel 
needs to have special attention to ensure that the frame has adequate 
physical strength to fully support the panel through the years. Also 
of importance is that the panel present a framed appearance to the 
eye. Many of my panels are framed in 1/2" or 3/4" brass U-CAP. This 
is strong stuff & IMO beats zinc as an exposed frame material. The 
visual framing can be accomplished, as necessary, by a simple rather 
dark border.
Better to strong than to weak, Bob 

____
Bob Duchesneau (stained glass, beveling, fusing & bending) Mountain 
Meadow Stained Glass, 26746 Mountain Meadow Road, Escondido, CA 92026 
Voice (760) 749-3966 FAX (760) 749-6427
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From owner-glass Sat Nov  1 09:56:43 1997
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X-Path: rocketmail.com!s_pinn
From: Stephen Pinn <s_pinn@rocketmail.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject:  Re: Coffe Mug supplier
Date: Sat, 1 Nov 1997 09:50:42 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov1.15042.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk



Happily Peggy, 

1) First I must say that I am hardly an expert at this, I have gilded
the background on 5 projects and it has worked well for me but I am
sure that there are better methods than mine so I would appreciate
anyones constructive input!

2) My reading about gilding regarding gilding indicates that one who
is skilled can control luster, shine, gloss, etc. by the types of size
the use.  If anyone has an issue with my technique, please see 1) above!

My requirements for gilding were fairly straight forward and helped me
decide what products to use.

1) I wanted to use a waterbase size
2) I did not want to use rabbit skin glue (purely from a perspective
of convenience)
3) I did not want to use a sealer coat
4) My work would not be located outdoors

Using these requirements I chose
  Rolco Aquasize as my sizing solution (Carlstadt NJ)
  22 to 25 karat gold leaf

Peggy as I'm sure you know the surfaces of material's like granite are
porous and tend to suck up liquids (such as the gild size).  For this
reason I often use 2 coats of sizing.  On glass 1 coat is sufficient.

So here goes.
	1) Blast away
	2) If you wish, remove the resist.  If you are using photoresist,
remove it now as using water to remove the resist in later steps will
wash away the sizing
	3)  Using an appropriate artist brush apply size to the area you wish
to gild and allow the size to set.
	4) Apply a second coat of size and allow to set
	5) Remove the resist (if you haven't already)
	6) Gild using gold leaf, apply with artist brushes, I use fairly
short bristle fairly stiff brushes to lay in the leaf.
	7) Admire with great pride!


Some books I found informative:
A Simple Guide to Gold Leafing by Lou Reed (615-865-2666)
Gold Leaf Techniques 3rd ed. by Kent H. Smith ST Publications
(513-421-2050)

Hope this helps and give it a try.  One technique I would love to
learn (if I had any sense of painting) would be to apply colors to
multi-level glass carving.

Take care and have fun - Steve
 


On Fri, 31 Oct 1997 08:18:25 -0800 (PST), you wrote:

>Hi Steve:  Gilding the background?  Can you tell us how you do this?  I
>have been playing around with sand etching but haven't done any gilding
>yet.  I am still in the practice stage of multi-carving.  PJ
>
>----






_____________________________________________________________________
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From owner-glass Sat Nov  1 11:05:08 1997
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From: Stephen Pinn <s_pinn@rocketmail.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject:  Re: Coffe Mug supplier
Date: Sat, 1 Nov 1997 09:50:42 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov1.15042.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk



Happily Peggy, 

1) First I must say that I am hardly an expert at this, I have gilded
the background on 5 projects and it has worked well for me but I am
sure that there are better methods than mine so I would appreciate
anyones constructive input!

2) My reading about gilding regarding gilding indicates that one who
is skilled can control luster, shine, gloss, etc. by the types of size
the use.  If anyone has an issue with my technique, please see 1) above!

My requirements for gilding were fairly straight forward and helped me
decide what products to use.

1) I wanted to use a waterbase size
2) I did not want to use rabbit skin glue (purely from a perspective
of convenience)
3) I did not want to use a sealer coat
4) My work would not be located outdoors

Using these requirements I chose
  Rolco Aquasize as my sizing solution (Carlstadt NJ)
  22 to 25 karat gold leaf

Peggy as I'm sure you know the surfaces of material's like granite are
porous and tend to suck up liquids (such as the gild size).  For this
reason I often use 2 coats of sizing.  On glass 1 coat is sufficient.

So here goes.
	1) Blast away
	2) If you wish, remove the resist.  If you are using photoresist,
remove it now as using water to remove the resist in later steps will
wash away the sizing
	3)  Using an appropriate artist brush apply size to the area you wish
to gild and allow the size to set.
	4) Apply a second coat of size and allow to set
	5) Remove the resist (if you haven't already)
	6) Gild using gold leaf, apply with artist brushes, I use fairly
short bristle fairly stiff brushes to lay in the leaf.
	7) Admire with great pride!


Some books I found informative:
A Simple Guide to Gold Leafing by Lou Reed (615-865-2666)
Gold Leaf Techniques 3rd ed. by Kent H. Smith ST Publications
(513-421-2050)

Hope this helps and give it a try.  One technique I would love to
learn (if I had any sense of painting) would be to apply colors to
multi-level glass carving.

Take care and have fun - Steve
 


On Fri, 31 Oct 1997 08:18:25 -0800 (PST), you wrote:

>Hi Steve:  Gilding the background?  Can you tell us how you do this?  I
>have been playing around with sand etching but haven't done any gilding
>yet.  I am still in the practice stage of multi-carving.  PJ
>
>----






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From owner-glass Sat Nov  1 11:46:44 1997
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X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: 2 hours - 2 pieces
Date: Sat, 01 Nov 1997 14:44:02 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov1.9442.0>
References: <<1.5.4.32.19971101034427.00694628@primary.matnet.com>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Tyler, Roger D. wrote:
> 
> Mike, what do you do that makes your foil stick so tight?  We frequently have trouble with our foil coming loose (which we find while polishing the piece).  I have been told that is frequently caused by too hot an iron.  Any ideas??
> 
> Rojean
> rogert@matnet.com
> 
> --------------
> At 05:27 PM 10/28/97 -0500, you wrote:
> >daver!telusplanet.net!dwightj wrote:
> >>
> >> Dear Scott and all,
> >>
> >> The project that I am working on dictates whether or not I cut all the
> >> pieces at once.  If I am foiling, a cut only a few pieces at a time, as I am
> >> such a perfectionist.  If I am leading, I cut the whole works out, as for
> >> some strange reason, I find lead more forgiving.
> >>
> >> I foil by hand because I have heard that the foilers are not as accurate.
> >> Do any of you, who use foilers, find this not to be the case?  I would sure
> >> be open to investing in one, as I find this part of the job extremely boring.
> >>
> >> Sincerely, Lorna
> >>
> >> ----
> >> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> >> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> >> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> >
> >
> >i would'nt mind having one. but i found that i'm pretty fast when it
> >comes to foiling. i have no idea how many miles i've foil i've used. i
> >would probably use it for boxes and such. large enough pieces with easy
> >curves. i would still rub it down by hand, nothing will really replace
> >that.
> >
> >when i'm done foiling, the only way to remove it is to use a razor blade
> >on all 3 sides. even then it's hard to do.
> >
> >---Mike Savad
> >
> >--
> >Mike's Stained Glass
> >http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
> > New Pages Added: 11 New Tip Pages, Including: Random Tips, Box Making
> >Tips, How to Fix Scratched Glass, Getting Pictures, How to Maintain
> >Tools and How Long They Last, Pictures of my Lamp Lit, 1 New Project,
> >Shopping Lists, and See My Bio with a picture of ME.
> >----
> >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> >To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> >
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


well.

1. all my glass is ground. 
2. everything is washed throughly and dried.
3. when i foil i try not to touch the sticky side too much. and my hands
she free of any oils and lotions. 
4. after pressing down, i rub it with the fid, fir the front, then the
back, then the edge.

if the iron is too hot some un-gluing can happen. but mostly by the
edges. if the glass is to thick and the foil to narrow the foil can
remove it self in the polishing process.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
 New Pages Added: 11 New Tip Pages, Including: Random Tips, Box Making
Tips, How to Fix Scratched Glass, Getting Pictures, How to Maintain
Tools and How Long They Last, Pictures of my Lamp Lit, 1 New Project,
Shopping Lists, and See My Bio with a picture of ME.
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From owner-glass Sat Nov  1 11:48:15 1997
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X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Frames
Date: Sat, 01 Nov 1997 14:45:22 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov1.94522.0>
References: <<1997Nov1.113057.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

debbiesgarden@juno.com wrote:
> 
> I am curious about how others frame their free-hanging panels. I've been
> buying 6ft long stained glass framing wood and cutting them to size or
> buying pre-cut pieces, but I'm getting bored with it. I've seen some
> pretty picture frames, but I like my backs to look just like my fronts.
> I've seen some really nice molding strips at the hardware store that I
> would love to frame my work.  Any ideas?
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


on my japanese garden panel, i used zinc border came. though it was a
pain to do i smeared solder on the surface of the came giving it a rough
bark texture.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
 New Pages Added: 11 New Tip Pages, Including: Random Tips, Box Making
Tips, How to Fix Scratched Glass, Getting Pictures, How to Maintain
Tools and How Long They Last, Pictures of my Lamp Lit, 1 New Project,
Shopping Lists, and See My Bio with a picture of ME.
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From owner-glass Sat Nov  1 11:55:04 1997
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X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Cutting glare on old panel
Date: Sat, 01 Nov 1997 14:46:45 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov1.94645.0>
References: <<1997Nov1.51226.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo wrote:
> 
> Thanks to all who responded to my inquiry about
> cutting down on the glare through an old panel.
> I will go with plating an extra layer of frosted glass
> on the back.
> 
> Christie A. Wood
> Art Glass Ensembles
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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make sure when you do put it in, the textured side goes on the inside.
if it's facing out it will get really dirty really quickly and be next
to impossible to clean.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
 New Pages Added: 11 New Tip Pages, Including: Random Tips, Box Making
Tips, How to Fix Scratched Glass, Getting Pictures, How to Maintain
Tools and How Long They Last, Pictures of my Lamp Lit, 1 New Project,
Shopping Lists, and See My Bio with a picture of ME.
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From owner-glass Sat Nov  1 13:31:14 1997
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	for rglass-42; Sat, 1 Nov 1997 13:30:32 -0800 (PST)
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X-Path: cornell.edu!bjs10
From: Barbara <bjs10@cornell.edu>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: problem store
Date: Sat, 1 Nov 1997 16:30:19 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <2.2.16.19971101163215.239728a0@postoffice.mail.cornell.edu>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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If he does not hear from you how you feel about his service, he will not
have an opportunity to make it "right"...  What he knows now is that he sold
a dozen pieces of zinc to you .... Sounds like his shop is more convienient
for you and has a better selection plus he knows a lot about glass.  These
are all good! No sense making it harder on yourself .... Before I spent the
money on the zinc, I think I might have asked again about the glass.  If
still not satisfied with the response, I would buy the zinc and glass elsewhere.

At 11:27 AM 10/31/97 -0500, you wrote:
>Ok who was the one that e-mailed me private a while back when I posted that
>my local store (ok its 35 miles away) was tooo "friendly" (and not the nice
>kind if you don't get my meaning) but his shop is HUGE and he knows a lot
>about glass.
>  Well here  is today's experience with him.... I was looking for a piece of
>glass to repair a window, the window is an old piece but the glass that was
>broken looked like fairly new glass so I started my hunt on a name for it
>before I had to do major changes in the window to replace with something
>else.  I found the glass in Delphi's catolog and had a name for it.  Polka
>Dot, its a clear texture, no company name.  So I called one shop that I had
>been to once in another direction, (also about 35 miles away) its a much
>smaller shop but very nice people there and helpful. I discribed the glass to
>her and she said she thinks she had some before but not now and she would be
>going to Houston soon if I wanted her to get some bring a sample.  again good
>people.
>    but I thought, well I am going in the direction of the first shop and he
>already has a huge selection maybe I will try there so to make it easier.  I
>brought in the piece and he said he thought he might have something similar
>but without the tiny texture on it.  I said let me look at it, it may work
>anyway.  I then (stupid me) told him that Delphi had called it Polka Dot and
>its new to them but maybe not a new glass.  The minute I said that he stopped
>looking and told me that I should just get it from them.
>   Maybe I am wrong but I thought I would give local businesses my business
>if I could, and was trying to be a little educated when asking for glass .  I
>bought a dozen pieces of zinc came and left.
>   As I was driving back I realized that the difference in price from the
>catolog and his I could have had it shipped including the shipping crate and
>costs and still been ahead.  I don't need his attitude and from now on I will
>either buy from the shop in the other direction or order through the mail (
>ordering over the web still has me a little scared)
>  Put my nose on straight if I am wrong I WANT to have a good working
>relationship with a shop I guess his just isn't doing it.  The other shop I
>found is one I will go to now but it is in a direction I rarely go and
>wouldn't be able to go there often except to buy glass and supplies
>deb
>
>----
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>
Barbara Snell
Cornell University

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From owner-glass Sat Nov  1 13:37:51 1997
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From: SSparks99@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Two questions
Date: Sat, 1 Nov 1997 16:37:16 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov1.113716.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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LM:  

I am new to this group, a beginner stained glass hobbyist and I have only
finished two pieces.  The second finshed piece was with copper foil.
 Unfortunately, after I finished the piece I realized that through the clear
glass I used you could see the underneath of the foil.  Just thought you
might like to hear a tip - even tho I am VERY new at this.  

I learned a lesson.  ;)

Keli V
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From owner-glass Sat Nov  1 13:49:06 1997
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	for rglass-42; Sat, 1 Nov 1997 13:48:27 -0800 (PST)
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X-Path: seaside.net!gspicer
From: "Glenn Spicer" <gspicer@seaside.net>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="---- =_NextPart_000_01BCE6CC.2675C320"
Subject: RE: Frames
Date: Sat, 1 Nov 1997 12:51:36 -0800
Message-ID: <1997Nov1.45136.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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------ =_NextPart_000_01BCE6CC.2675C320
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable



-----Original Message-----
From:	 BOB   DUCHESNEAU [SMTP:YWAH36A@prodigy.com]
Deb,
I do much as Bob. The size and shape of a piece and the needs of the =
client determine my approach.=20
1. On small sun catchers I use 18-16 gauge wire loops attached to a =
internal lead line, the larger the sun catcher, the deeper the wire =
attachment,=20
2. On small windows I run 14 gauge wire around the perimeter (starting =
and ending at the bottom) with loops at internal lead line points.
3. On small to medium size pieces I use metal U came and drill through =
the outer portion of the came and solder a double loop of 14 gauge wire =
through the hole.
4. On medium to large pieces I buy 2x2 finished wood (cedar  or oak is =
my preference), use a thin kerf table saw to remove about a 1" x1/2" =
(1/4" for narrower U came) strip. I then cut 1/4" off the 1" portion of =
the strip removed and use this as the stop trim. The advantage of this =
method is that if this frame is made to the size of the window that it =
is going into, it can be easily be removed if the owner sells the house =
to take with them. I generally discourage the client from taking a =
window with them as stained glass improves the salability of the house =
many times the worth of the stained glass piece, and they can easily =
afford to get another one made because of this.
5. Free hanging larger non-square pieces present a greater problem. =
Plywood can be cut to shape and paint finished or a professional =
woodworker can make one out of hardwood for you (add to price)
6. To add to an existing window, use a 1/2' x-section trim as a spacer =
from the existing window, place your window centering with a small dab =
of hot glue, silicone, or non-adhesive rubber, plastic, or wood spacers.
7. Allow 1/16th to 1/8th " space around the window for movement, don't =
make the mistake of fitting it tight!
8. Use caution by using a small headed hammer, nail set, and something =
between the glass and the nail that you are putting in the trim (like =
1/8th " ply), I have an air brad nailer and find this to be the ultimate =
in placing nails.
Debbie wrote:
I am curious about how others frame their free-hanging panels

Bob writes,
I also use a lot of wood frame stock. IMO a free hanging panel=20
needs to have special attention to ensure that the frame has adequate=20
physical strength to fully support the panel through the years. Also=20
of importance is that the panel present a framed appearance to the=20
eye. Many of my panels are framed in 1/2" or 3/4" brass U-CAP. This=20
is strong stuff & IMO beats zinc as an exposed frame material. The=20
visual framing can be accomplished, as necessary, by a simple rather=20
dark border.
Better to strong than to weak, Bob=20
----

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From owner-glass Sat Nov  1 13:49:32 1997
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	via smail with stdio
	id <m0xRlPS-0000gZa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Sat, 1 Nov 1997 13:48:46 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #8 built 1997-Jun-19)
X-Path: seaside.net!gspicer
From: "Glenn Spicer" <gspicer@seaside.net>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="---- =_NextPart_000_01BCE6CC.3111D3A0"
Subject: RE: Web pages...
Date: Sat, 1 Nov 1997 13:42:28 -0800
Message-ID: <1997Nov1.54228.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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------ =_NextPart_000_01BCE6CC.3111D3A0
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I understand the need of those who do not have the artistic ability to =
do original work to "need " pattern archives ( there ARE copious =
quantities of books out there with every conceivable level of glass =
work). BUT those of us who have the ability usually have a "need" to be =
paid for our work (it has taken us many years of practice and/or =
schooling to get to this point) which may be the reason that not many =
participated the last time this was tried. Now as a teacher, I do wish =
to help those working for their own enjoyment and not for profit, and =
would be willing to contribute, but for those wishing to profit from the =
work of others there is the rule of copyright. Fair is fair, and fear =
not, I would pursue anyone using my designs for profit without  my =
written permission (and usually remuneration). I hope I do not seem too =
hard, but my bread and butter comes from my time in designing. I hope I =
am not the only one feeling this way about archives.

Hi all,

>> I for one would LOVE a pattern archive....if someone could get this =
goin'
>> again, I'm there!!!


Stained Glass Biz would be happy to gather patterns from everyone and =
create
an online archive.  Storing the patterns is no problem, we'll need =
either
scans or photocopies (sent to us to scan).  If you're interested, let's =
get
the ball rolling!

Pete

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From owner-glass Sat Nov  1 13:59:37 1997
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Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m0xRlZZ-0000dDa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Sat, 1 Nov 1997 13:59:13 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #8 built 1997-Jun-19)
X-Path: seaside.net!gspicer
From: "Glenn Spicer" <gspicer@seaside.net>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="---- =_NextPart_000_01BCE6CC.2BAB6160"
Subject: RE: Repairs
Date: Sat, 1 Nov 1997 13:18:19 -0800
Message-ID: <1997Nov1.51819.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


------ =_NextPart_000_01BCE6CC.2BAB6160
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable


Cody (I think) said
>>The right way..... cut away the top leaf of the lead that
>surrounds the entire broken piece.....Then apply a smidgen of clear =
100%=20
>Then putty up. >I can't believe someone would want to foil in a piece =
for a leaded
>repair. Granted, foil and lead can provide an interesting duo. But for =
a
>repair? >Look-you get paid to do a job. Do it right>" One of the best =
things=20
about doin' the job right is standing back and >saying to =
yourself..."Hey-I did the job right.">
Michael Smoucha said
You can't be serious. Hope no one takes this advise.
My opinion is
Right way Cody?, I have my doubts, but each to their own. Mine the right =
way? I don't know, but it is just about as good as the original as I can =
see, other than deconstruction and rebuilding (which for other than =
restoration does not justify the time). I remove the offending piece of =
glass, remove the old lead that surrounded the removed piece, cut a new =
piece just ever so slightly smaller than the new came permits. I then =
cut the came to surround the new piece, using the fid to open it wider =
than normal, place the new came into place without soldering, then with =
all four hands, angle the came outwards from the window and fit the new =
piece in place. I then bend the new came back to it's normal opening, =
solder and putty. Voila, a little sweat and a job indistinguishable =
visually and structurally from the original. It does take a little =
practice, but what the hey, "I did the job right"
Glenn Spicer
The Studio Metamorphoses=20

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From owner-glass Sat Nov  1 14:05:40 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!SSparks99
From: SSparks99@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Different Glass Types
Date: Sat, 1 Nov 1997 17:04:46 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov1.12446.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Since I am new to this group . . . . I have another question - ONLY ONE this
time - Albert indicated I needed to be a little less demanding.  

Anyway - as I read the posts, I see that all kinds of glass names are being
thrown around.  

My question:  Because there are names like:  Scott Glass, Chicago ARt Glass,
Advance Opal Glass, Vietnamese Glass; Canadian Art Glass, Royal City Glass,
Merry Go Round Glass, Fisher Flashed Glass , Ruth Glass and Irridescent Glass
- to name a few - does this mean that each and every one of these glasses
have something in particular that separates the quality and appearance - or
JUST THAT there are so many names?

Just wondering - and I'm being polite too.

Keli
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From owner-glass Sat Nov  1 14:21:55 1997
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X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Different Glass Types
Date: Sat, 01 Nov 1997 17:19:22 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov1.121922.0>
References: <<1997Nov1.12446.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

SSparks99@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Since I am new to this group . . . . I have another question - ONLY ONE this
> time - Albert indicated I needed to be a little less demanding.
> 
> Anyway - as I read the posts, I see that all kinds of glass names are being
> thrown around.
> 
> My question:  Because there are names like:  Scott Glass, Chicago ARt Glass,
> Advance Opal Glass, Vietnamese Glass; Canadian Art Glass, Royal City Glass,
> Merry Go Round Glass, Fisher Flashed Glass , Ruth Glass and Irridescent Glass
> - to name a few - does this mean that each and every one of these glasses
> have something in particular that separates the quality and appearance - or
> JUST THAT there are so many names?
> 
> Just wondering - and I'm being polite too.
> 
> Keli
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


most of the names you listed are brand names, irridescent, however, is a
type. go to my glass type page at http://www.geocities.com/paris/1141
(in the tips section, i think). i listed all the popular types of glass
(the ones i can get my hands on anyway), and what they look like. 

like for example chicago art glass, is well, art glass. tiffany used a
glass like that, it has mottles, etc in the colors. it gives a more
natural, realistic look to the glass. 

spectrum on the other hand is more for basic work. work that does'nt
require depth, shadows, etc. i use it alot for my boxes, mainly becuase
i can always kind the same color that matches. and the glass is fairly
uniform in thickness.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
 New Pages Added: 11 New Tip Pages, Including: Random Tips, Box Making
Tips, How to Fix Scratched Glass, Getting Pictures, How to Maintain
Tools and How Long They Last, Pictures of my Lamp Lit, 1 New Project,
Shopping Lists, and See My Bio with a picture of ME.
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From owner-glass Sat Nov  1 15:53:48 1997
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X-Path: compuserve.com!GreerStudios
From: "Michael J. Greer" <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: "INTERNET:glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Different Glass Types
Date: Sat, 1 Nov 1997 18:52:00 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov1.13520.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi Keli-

Most of the names you mentioned are actually glass companies (some now
defunct) =

that made various glasses such as cathedrals, opalescents, irridescents,
etc.  It does
get rather confusing!  And each of those companies made glass that probab=
ly
had
a certain "look" to it.  When you say "Kokomo" to an old glass dawg, he c=
an
picture =

the exact glass in his mind.  In fact, Kokomo has a pretty decent video o=
ut
showing
how they make their glass... it's quite well done - several glass shops i=
n
our area
rent it out and perhaps one in your area does, too.  The best way to get =
to
know the
hundreds of different glasses readily available is to use them - and when=

you buy
them, be sure and get the names.  Your supplier should be able to tell yo=
u
that you're
buying, for example, Spectrum (company) waterglass (name of glass) or
Wissmach (company) amber granite (type of glass).  Once you've been at it=

long enough, you'll even be =

able to rattle off the stock numbers!

Hope I haven't confused the issue even more!

Best regards,

Dani Greer
Greer Gallery & Studios

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From owner-glass Sat Nov  1 15:53:52 1997
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X-Path: compuserve.com!GreerStudios
From: "Michael J. Greer" <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: "INTERNET:glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: RE: Repairs
Date: Sat, 1 Nov 1997 18:52:02 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov1.13522.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Glenn -

I think the key word is "solder" (the came in place) NOT silicone!

Best regards,

Dani Greer
Greer Gallery & Studios
http://eme.usa.net/greerstudios/
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From owner-glass Sat Nov  1 16:04:32 1997
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X-Path: prodigy.com!YWAH36A
From: YWAH36A@prodigy.com ( BOB   DUCHESNEAU)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Different Glass Types
Date: Sat,  1 Nov 1997 17:55:27, -0500
Message-ID: <199711012255.RAA21850@mime4.prodigy.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Keli wrote, in part:
My question:  Because there are names like:  Scott Glass, Chicago ARt 
Glass,
Advance Opal Glass, Vietnamese Glass; Canadian Art Glass, Royal City 
Glass,
Merry Go Round Glass, Fisher Flashed Glass , Ruth Glass and 
Irridescent Glass
- to name a few - does this mean that each and every one of these 
glasses
have something in particular that separates the quality and 
appearance - or
JUST THAT there are so many names?

Just wondering - and I'm being polite too.

Keli

Bob writes, in full,
  Welcome to the world of glass. Each manafacturers glass is 
different, most noticable in technique, texture and finish. If it is 
any consultation to you, there are several glasses listed above that 
I never heard of. Three or four of my favorites are missing, such as 
Spectrum, Desag, ST. Just, Weishmach, etc.
  Yes this is confusing at first and perhaps last. If you have a 
glass shop handy you can either see or ask the names. Have the seller 
mark the names on the glass you buy. Better yet get a catalog number 
if available. 
  Even the largest of wholesalers can not carry but a fraction of all 
the glass available in the world. Hollanders (Los Angeles) is perhaps 
the largest wholesaler and they freely state that they carry a 
selection and not a full product line from the glass makers they deal 
with. This is good for inventory control but can leave one hanging 
when a repair demands the exact color and texture as produced by ABC 
product #XXX. If you can stand a little more confusion, there are 
many glasses that vary quite a lot in a given sheet. Can make for a 
problem but sometimes brings a cry of thanks when just the right 
everything comes together and you have your hands on it. 
  For anyone interested I came by 22 sheets of Ruth Glass a few years 
ago. Just wonderful stuff but all gone now. I understand they went 
out of business about 25 years ago and were the only hand rolled 
glass makers ever in San Diego County, CA.
  My glass habit could send me to the poor house, Bob

____
Bob Duchesneau (stained glass, beveling, fusing & bending) Mountain 
Meadow Stained Glass, 26746 Mountain Meadow Road, Escondido, CA 92026 
Voice (760) 749-3966 FAX (760) 749-6427
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From owner-glass Sat Nov  1 18:21:32 1997
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X-Path: seaside.net!gspicer
From: "Glenn Spicer" <gspicer@seaside.net>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="---- =_NextPart_000_01BCE6F2.1BBBD520"
Subject: RE: Repairs
Date: Sat, 1 Nov 1997 18:03:19 -0800
Message-ID: <1997Nov1.10319.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


------ =_NextPart_000_01BCE6F2.1BBBD520
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable



-----Original Message-----
From:	Michael J. Greer [SMTP:GreerStudios@compuserve.com]
Sent:	Saturday, November 01, 1997 3:52 PM
To:	INTERNET:glass@bungi.com
Subject:	RE: Repairs

Glenn -

I think the key word is "solder" (the came in place) NOT silicone!

Best regards,

Dani Greer
Greer Gallery & Studios
http://eme.usa.net/greerstudios/
Dani
 I checked CODY'S original letter and I give you the quote from him =
(10/27/97 Cody "The Glass Guru" subject: Repairs
 " Bend the thing to fit where the old lead came off from. DON"T solder =
anything yet. Then apply a smidgen of clear 100% silicone to the back of =
the leaf of NEW lead. Stick it down. Re-solder all the joints. Wait 24 =
hours for the silicone to dry."
The only time in MY letters that I mentioned silicone was in the one =
regarding framing
"6.	To add to an existing window, use a 1/2' x-section trim as a spacer  =
from the existing window, place your window centering with a small dab  =
of hot glue, silicone, or non-adhesive rubber, plastic, or wood =
spacers." =20

This of course refers to the window in the frame and not repairs (and in =
this case I did mean silicone, and I did mean a small dab) but I must =
admit that I forgot to add ->=20
" and then place the finishing trim around the perimeter of the stained =
glass window."=20

I hope this clears up any misunderstanding that you may have had re =
silicone and my use of it. I definitely do NOT use it for repair, and =
very sparingly in centering a window in the frame. =20

Glenn Spicer
The Studio Metamorphoses

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From owner-glass Sat Nov  1 18:22:07 1997
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	for rglass-42; Sat, 1 Nov 1997 18:20:47 -0800 (PST)
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X-Path: seaside.net!gspicer
From: "Glenn Spicer" <gspicer@seaside.net>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="---- =_NextPart_000_01BCE6F2.334D2860"
Subject: RE: Different Glass Types
Date: Sat, 1 Nov 1997 18:13:21 -0800
Message-ID: <1997Nov1.101321.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


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-----Original Message-----
From:	Michael J. Greer [SMTP:GreerStudios@compuserve.com]
Sent:	Saturday, November 01, 1997 3:52 PM
To:	INTERNET:glass@bungi.com
Subject:	Different Glass Types

Hi Keli-
Kokomo has a pretty decent video out showing how they make their =
glass... it's quite well done - several glass shops in our area rent it =
out and perhaps one in your area does, too
Dani

Dani
I would like more info on this video (for my classes), where can one buy =
this video.
Glenn Spicer
The Studio Metamorphoses

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From owner-glass Sat Nov  1 18:33:38 1997
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X-Path: seaside.net!gspicer
From: "Glenn Spicer" <gspicer@seaside.net>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="---- =_NextPart_000_01BCE6F2.525F9080"
Subject: RE: Guilding
Date: Sat, 1 Nov 1997 18:16:40 -0800
Message-ID: <1997Nov1.101640.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


------ =_NextPart_000_01BCE6F2.525F9080
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Excellent reply and references on guilding, thanks Steve
Glenn Spicer
Studio Metamorphoses

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------ =_NextPart_000_01BCE6F2.525F9080--

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From owner-glass Sat Nov  1 19:02:42 1997
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Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m0xRqIq-0000nVa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Sat, 1 Nov 1997 19:02:16 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #8 built 1997-Jun-19)
X-Path: webtv.net!GlassGuru
From: GlassGuru@webtv.net
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; CHARSET=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Repairs
Date: Sat, 1 Nov 1997 19:02:10 -0800
Message-ID: <199711020302.TAA20083@mailtod-121.bryant.webtv.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Everybody missed the boat. I still stand by doin' something the right
way. Do I silicone anything-NO. Scabing something together? Well if you
want to do it that way go ahead. Now I know who does things that way.
Somebody said something about bending the leaf up...how about if your
usin' 1/8" HR or 3/16" HR?? I might understand flat H. 
So how you gonna repair a zinc or brass work?
Nobody seemed to want to comment on doin' it the right way!
Somebody else mentioned that scabbin" was to save time. Who's time?
As to the Kokoma video...great video. It's been out for a several years
now.
Cody

"Cease seeing with the mind,
and see with the vital spirit." -Chuang Tzu

The "GlassGuru"
The Ralph Nader of Glass
Crusader of truths & commentary.
".....and a really neat guy!"
See me at:
www.suresite.com/or/g/glassguru
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From owner-glass Sat Nov  1 19:22:53 1997
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	for rglass-42; Sat, 1 Nov 1997 19:22:18 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #8 built 1997-Jun-19)
X-Path: softcom.net!mthaxton
From: Melissa Thaxton <mthaxton@softcom.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Different Glass Types
Date: Sat, 01 Nov 1997 19:22:37 -0800
Message-ID: <1997Nov1.112237.0>
References: <<199711012255.RAA21850@mime4.prodigy.com>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

More like16 years ago I do believe.

>
>
>   For anyone interested I came by 22 sheets of Ruth Glass a few years
> ago. Just wonderful stuff but all gone now. I understand they went
> out of business about 25 years ago and were the only hand rolled
> glass makers ever in San Diego County, CA.
>   My glass habit could send me to the poor house, Bob



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From owner-glass Sat Nov  1 20:35:56 1997
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	for rglass-42; Sat, 1 Nov 1997 20:35:13 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #8 built 1997-Jun-19)
X-Path: seaside.net!gspicer
From: "Glenn Spicer" <gspicer@seaside.net>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="---- =_NextPart_000_01BCE704.E973D820"
Subject: RE: Pricing
Date: Sat, 1 Nov 1997 20:29:30 -0800
Message-ID: <1997Nov1.122930.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


------ =_NextPart_000_01BCE704.E973D820
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable



-----Original Message-----
From:	Michael J. Greer [SMTP:GreerStudios@compuserve.com]
Sent:	Wednesday, October 29, 1997 5:03 PM
To:	All
Subject:	Pricing

Thanks to  Mike Peck for his feedback on pricing.  We're right in the=20
Same ball park as you are.  Glenn's pricing seemed a little low to me, =
too,=20
But I guess it just depends on where you're located and what your market =
will
bear
Best regards,

Dani Greer
Greer Gallery & Studios

Well now, pricing
	Right now I am working on a window, 362pcs 22 bevels, and 3 sandblasted =
pieces, 8.4 sq. ft.. As I said when I gave my formula for pricing, the =
prices there were from a few years ago. Today, for this piece which is =
fairly complex, I would be charging $70/sq. ft., $5/sq. ft., plus the =
cost of the bevels, and the fee for sandblasting and designing. This =
comes to about $3042.71, or about $362/sq. ft.. This does not seem to me =
to be low, but maybe I SHOULD charge more if you think the market will =
bear it. Maybe I should consider selling in a different region, when I =
get my web page up this may be the answer to getting more money for my =
work. Thanks for the input.
Glenn Spicer
The Studio Metamorphoses
----

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Subject: RE: Pricing
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-----Original Message-----
From:	Michael J. Greer [SMTP:GreerStudios@compuserve.com]
Sent:	Wednesday, October 29, 1997 5:03 PM
To:	All
Subject:	Pricing

Thanks to  Mike Peck for his feedback on pricing.  We're right in the=20
Same ball park as you are.  Glenn's pricing seemed a little low to me, =
too,=20
But I guess it just depends on where you're located and what your market =
will
bear
Best regards,

Dani Greer
Greer Gallery & Studios

Well now, pricing
	Right now I am working on a window, 362pcs 22 bevels, and 3 sandblasted =
pieces, 8.4 sq. ft.. As I said when I gave my formula for pricing, the =
prices there were from a few years ago. Today, for this piece which is =
fairly complex, I would be charging $70/sq. ft., $5/sq. ft., plus the =
cost of the bevels, and the fee for sandblasting and designing. This =
comes to about $3042.71, or about $362/sq. ft.. This does not seem to me =
to be low, but maybe I SHOULD charge more if you think the market will =
bear it. Maybe I should consider selling in a different region, when I =
get my web page up this may be the answer to getting more money for my =
work. Thanks for the input.
Glenn Spicer
The Studio Metamorphoses
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From owner-glass Sat Nov  1 21:33:22 1997
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	for rglass-42; Sat, 1 Nov 1997 21:32:49 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #8 built 1997-Jun-19)
X-Path: seaside.net!gspicer
From: "Glenn Spicer" <gspicer@seaside.net>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="---- =_NextPart_000_01BCE70C.F73C9DE0"
Subject: RE: Repairs
Date: Sat, 1 Nov 1997 21:27:22 -0800
Message-ID: <1997Nov1.132722.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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------ =_NextPart_000_01BCE70C.F73C9DE0
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-----Original Message-----
From:	GlassGuru@webtv.net [SMTP:GlassGuru@webtv.net]
Sent:	Saturday, November 01, 1997 7:02 PM
To:	glass@bungi.com
Subject:	Re: Repairs

Everybody missed the boat. I still stand by doin' something the right
way. Do I silicone anything-NO. Scabing something together? Well if you
want to do it that way go ahead. Now I know who does things that way.
Somebody said something about bending the leaf up...how about if your
usin' 1/8" HR or 3/16" HR?? I might understand flat H.=20
So how you gonna repair a zinc or brass work?
Nobody seemed to want to comment on doin' it the right way!
Somebody else mentioned that scabbin" was to save time. Who's time?
As to the Kokoma video...great video. It's been out for a several years
now.
Cody

"Cease seeing with the mind,
and see with the vital spirit." -Chuang Tzu

The "GlassGuru"
The Ralph Nader of Glass
Crusader of truths & commentary.
".....and a really neat guy!"
See me at:
www.suresite.com/or/g/glassguru
----
Well, I can see that this talk about solder and broken glass is gonna =
lead to repairs.
Basically it's this way. There is only two ways to do any sort of =
repair. The right way, and the wrong way. Anybody who takes the shortcut =
is either trying to impress the other person or trying to make a fast =
buck.  Copper foil seems the easiest and it sounds like most seem to get =
the general idea. However, lead is a different tune. You don't wrap duct =
tape around that leaky radiator hose and head off across the desert. So =
why would anyone foil a piece of glass into a leaded panel for a repair? =
 The right way: Remove all the glass and lead until you can get to the =
broken piece. Replace it, and all the rest of the lead. Re-putty the =
darn thing. You'll sleep better. If'n you have to have the money, then =
there's an alternative. Don't foil it in! You take a utility knife with =
a sharp blade and CAREFULLY cut away the top leaf of the lead that =
surrounds the entire broken piece.
Then take the broken piece out. Now, using a razor blade, shave off the =
top off the channel until it is flush with the glass. Are you with me so =
far? If the panel has been grouted then make sure you remove all the =
grout. Then cut a piece of glass to fit back in. Simple. Don't foil it!  =
And now you take a new piece of lead and using your trusty Stanton =
Stretcher, stretch it.
Then you take the old utility knife with a sharp blade and CAREFULLY cut =
one of the leafs off.
Bend the thing to fit where the old lead came off from. DON"T solder =
anything yet. Then apply a smidgen of clear 100% silicone to the back of =
the leaf of NEW lead. Stick it down. Resolder all the joints. Wait 24 =
hours for the silicone to dry.
Then putty up.
I can't believe someone would want to foil in a piece for a leaded =
repair. Granted, foil and lead can provide an interesting duo. But for a =
repair?
Look-you get paid to do a job. Do it right. Believe me, a half way job =
will come back to haunt you. If your customer doesn't want to pay you =
for your time to do the job right then send'em lookin' else where. And =
for all you kids just learnin'...there's lots a techniques, nothin' =
wrong with'em, good to know'em, learn'em. As long as they lead to the =
RIGHT results! Do that in everything you do.
Cody
"One of the best things about doin' the job right is standing back and =
saying to yourself..."Hey-I did the job right."
The "GlassGuru"
The Ralph Nader of Glass
Crusader of truths & commentary.
".....and a really neat guy!"
See me at:

Cody
Both of these letters were apparently sent by you and I am a little =
confused by the apparent contradiction. Perhaps you can clarify, things =
aren't always clear in E mail.=20
As for repairing metal came I have yet to find a more satisfactory way =
of repairing other than from the outside inward, and I charge depending =
on how far in the broke piece is from the edge.
As for 1/8 or 3/16 HR, the channel is not deep enough to require bending =
and the free play of the unsoldered came is enough in most cases (not =
all), to allow the replacement piece to snap in. If this does not work =
then I usually go in from the edge and take out the pieces necessary to =
replace the broken piece, which can be costly to the client.
I am certainly interested in quality work and always have an ear open to =
learn and keep a record of many of the bungi letters, as I do like to do =
the job correctly.

Glenn Spicer
The Studio Metamorphoses


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From owner-glass Sat Nov  1 23:14:50 1997
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X-Path: seaside.net!gspicer
From: "Glenn Spicer" <gspicer@seaside.net>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: RE: Pricing
Date: Sat, 1 Nov 1997 21:33:01 -0800
Message-ID: <1997Nov1.13331.0>
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-----Original Message-----
From:	Michael J. Greer [SMTP:GreerStudios@compuserve.com]
Sent:	Wednesday, October 29, 1997 5:03 PM
To:	All
Subject:	Pricing

Thanks to  Mike Peck for his feedback on pricing.  We're right in the=20
Same ball park as you are.  Glenn's pricing seemed a little low to me, =
too,=20
But I guess it just depends on where you're located and what your market =
will
bear
Best regards,

Dani Greer
Greer Gallery & Studios

Well now, pricing
	Right now I am working on a window, 362pcs 22 bevels, and 3 sandblasted =
pieces, 8.4 sq. ft.. As I said when I gave my formula for pricing, the =
prices there were from a few years ago. Today, for this piece which is =
fairly complex, I would be charging $70/sq. ft., $5/sq. ft., plus the =
cost of the bevels, and the fee for sandblasting and designing. This =
comes to about $3042.71, or about $362/sq. ft.. This does not seem to me =
to be low, but maybe I SHOULD charge more if you think the market will =
bear it. Maybe I should consider selling in a different region, when I =
get my web page up this may be the answer to getting more money for my =
work. Thanks for the input.
Glenn Spicer
The Studio Metamorphoses
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From owner-glass Sun Nov  2 02:16:47 1997
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X-Path: stainedglass.co.uk!studio
From: "studio@stainedglass.co.uk" <studio@stainedglass.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Two questions
Date: Sun, 02 Nov 1997 10:15:11 +0000
Message-ID: <1997Nov2.101511.0>
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Keli, At 16:37 01/11/97 -0500, you wrote:

>I am new to this group, a beginner stained glass hobbyist and I have only
>finished two pieces.  The second finshed piece was with copper foil.
> Unfortunately, after I finished the piece I realized that through the clear
>glass I used you could see the underneath of the foil.  

You can disguise the copper showthrough by finishing off a piece with one of
the copper patinas.  If you've already patina-d it black however you will
have to remelt all the solder lines before applying copper patina.
Elizabeth
Bournemouth Stained Glass
http://www.stainedglass.co.uk

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From owner-glass Sun Nov  2 06:19:53 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!ItsAlison
From: ItsAlison@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: to pj and Paul on your Website and your work
Date: Sun, 2 Nov 1997 09:17:42 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov2.41742.0>
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I just visited your web site and was impressed by your beautiful work. I
recently attended a wedding at M'kor Shalom and i was just thunderstruck by
the magnificent stained glass windows........the colors were breathtaking! I
have never before seen such beautiful use of color and design!  Imagine
finding out that it was done by one of our Bungi contributors.....just wish
everyone here could see the windows! They are magnificent !!
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From owner-glass Sun Nov  2 06:43:54 1997
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X-Path: gjr
From: gjr@bungi.com (Glenna Rand)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Two questions
Date: Sun, 2 Nov 1997 06:43:21 PST
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[In the message entitled "Re: Two questions" on Nov  2, 10:15, "studio@stainedglass.co.uk" writes:]
> 
> Keli, At 16:37 01/11/97 -0500, you wrote:
> 
> >I am new to this group, a beginner stained glass hobbyist and I have only
> >finished two pieces.  The second finshed piece was with copper foil.
> > Unfortunately, after I finished the piece I realized that through the clear
> >glass I used you could see the underneath of the foil.  

If you are leaving solder seams silver,...you can use silver backed copper
foil.


-- 
Glenna Rand
gjr@bungi.com
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From owner-glass Sun Nov  2 10:29:08 1997
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X-Path: matnet.com!rogert
From: "Tyler, Roger D." <rogert@matnet.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: RE: Repairs
Date: Sun, 02 Nov 1997 09:16:41 -0800
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Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Fortunately there is more than one way to do any job!  I, for one, am greatful to ALL the bungi participants for sharing there ideas. While there may be times when we need 'perfection' there are certainly as many (maybe more!) times when we need and/or want to save the day, and our sanity, by a 'quick fix'.  Thanks to those who have shared their expertiese on the many ways of doing a job.

Rojean
-------------

At 09:27 PM 11/1/97 -0800, you wrote:
>
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>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From:	GlassGuru@webtv.net [SMTP:GlassGuru@webtv.net]
>Sent:	Saturday, November 01, 1997 7:02 PM
>To:	glass@bungi.com
>Subject:	Re: Repairs
>
>Everybody missed the boat. I still stand by doin' something the right
>way. Do I silicone anything-NO. Scabing something together? Well if you
>want to do it that way go ahead. Now I know who does things that way.
>Somebody said something about bending the leaf up...how about if your
>usin' 1/8" HR or 3/16" HR?? I might understand flat H.=20
>So how you gonna repair a zinc or brass work?
>Nobody seemed to want to comment on doin' it the right way!
>Somebody else mentioned that scabbin" was to save time. Who's time?
>As to the Kokoma video...great video. It's been out for a several years
>now.
>Cody
>
>"Cease seeing with the mind,
>and see with the vital spirit." -Chuang Tzu
>
>The "GlassGuru"
>The Ralph Nader of Glass
>Crusader of truths & commentary.
>".....and a really neat guy!"
>See me at:
>www.suresite.com/or/g/glassguru
>----
>Well, I can see that this talk about solder and broken glass is gonna =
>lead to repairs.
>Basically it's this way. There is only two ways to do any sort of =
>repair. The right way, and the wrong way. Anybody who takes the shortcut =
>is either trying to impress the other person or trying to make a fast =
>buck.  Copper foil seems the easiest and it sounds like most seem to get =
>the general idea. However, lead is a different tune. You don't wrap duct =
>tape around that leaky radiator hose and head off across the desert. So =
>why would anyone foil a piece of glass into a leaded panel for a repair? =
> The right way: Remove all the glass and lead until you can get to the =
>broken piece. Replace it, and all the rest of the lead. Re-putty the =
>darn thing. You'll sleep better. If'n you have to have the money, then =
>there's an alternative. Don't foil it in! You take a utility knife with =
>a sharp blade and CAREFULLY cut away the top leaf of the lead that =
>surrounds the entire broken piece.
>Then take the broken piece out. Now, using a razor blade, shave off the =
>top off the channel until it is flush with the glass. Are you with me so =
>far? If the panel has been grouted then make sure you remove all the =
>grout. Then cut a piece of glass to fit back in. Simple. Don't foil it!  =
>And now you take a new piece of lead and using your trusty Stanton =
>Stretcher, stretch it.
>Then you take the old utility knife with a sharp blade and CAREFULLY cut =
>one of the leafs off.
>Bend the thing to fit where the old lead came off from. DON"T solder =
>anything yet. Then apply a smidgen of clear 100% silicone to the back of =
>the leaf of NEW lead. Stick it down. Resolder all the joints. Wait 24 =
>hours for the silicone to dry.
>Then putty up.
>I can't believe someone would want to foil in a piece for a leaded =
>repair. Granted, foil and lead can provide an interesting duo. But for a =
>repair?
>Look-you get paid to do a job. Do it right. Believe me, a half way job =
>will come back to haunt you. If your customer doesn't want to pay you =
>for your time to do the job right then send'em lookin' else where. And =
>for all you kids just learnin'...there's lots a techniques, nothin' =
>wrong with'em, good to know'em, learn'em. As long as they lead to the =
>RIGHT results! Do that in everything you do.
>Cody
>"One of the best things about doin' the job right is standing back and =
>saying to yourself..."Hey-I did the job right."
>The "GlassGuru"
>The Ralph Nader of Glass
>Crusader of truths & commentary.
>".....and a really neat guy!"
>See me at:
>
>Cody
>Both of these letters were apparently sent by you and I am a little =
>confused by the apparent contradiction. Perhaps you can clarify, things =
>aren't always clear in E mail.=20
>As for repairing metal came I have yet to find a more satisfactory way =
>of repairing other than from the outside inward, and I charge depending =
>on how far in the broke piece is from the edge.
>As for 1/8 or 3/16 HR, the channel is not deep enough to require bending =
>and the free play of the unsoldered came is enough in most cases (not =
>all), to allow the replacement piece to snap in. If this does not work =
>then I usually go in from the edge and take out the pieces necessary to =
>replace the broken piece, which can be costly to the client.
>I am certainly interested in quality work and always have an ear open to =
>learn and keep a record of many of the bungi letters, as I do like to do =
>the job correctly.
>
>Glenn Spicer
>The Studio Metamorphoses
>
>
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>------ =_NextPart_000_01BCE70C.F73C9DE0--
>
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Archives would be terrific for those of us who are less artistically inclined.  It is a great way for all to see what can be done with experience.  Those who fear being copied (the highest form of flattery) need only keep their designs safely tucked away in the back room. 

Rojean
-------------------

At 01:42 PM 11/1/97 -0800, you wrote:
>
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>
>I understand the need of those who do not have the artistic ability to =
>do original work to "need " pattern archives ( there ARE copious =
>quantities of books out there with every conceivable level of glass =
>work). BUT those of us who have the ability usually have a "need" to be =
>paid for our work (it has taken us many years of practice and/or =
>schooling to get to this point) which may be the reason that not many =
>participated the last time this was tried. Now as a teacher, I do wish =
>to help those working for their own enjoyment and not for profit, and =
>would be willing to contribute, but for those wishing to profit from the =
>work of others there is the rule of copyright. Fair is fair, and fear =
>not, I would pursue anyone using my designs for profit without  my =
>written permission (and usually remuneration). I hope I do not seem too =
>hard, but my bread and butter comes from my time in designing. I hope I =
>am not the only one feeling this way about archives.
>
>Hi all,
>
>>> I for one would LOVE a pattern archive....if someone could get this =
>goin'
>>> again, I'm there!!!
>
>
>Stained Glass Biz would be happy to gather patterns from everyone and =
>create
>an online archive.  Storing the patterns is no problem, we'll need =
>either
>scans or photocopies (sent to us to scan).  If you're interested, let's =
>get
>the ball rolling!
>
>Pete
>
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>
>----
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>
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From owner-glass Sun Nov  2 11:08:53 1997
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X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: "INTERNET:glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Different Glass Types
Date: Sun, 2 Nov 1997 14:06:40 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov2.9640.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Keli;

Yes, you are very polite!

Anyway...some of those names are the manufacturers.  Some
refer to the type of glass, such as Flash glass.  Some indicate
a process which has been included in the glass manufacturing
which produces a specific effect, such as Irridized.  Some
refer to the way two or more colors of glass are combined,
such as Streaky.  Some refer to the texture on one or both sides
of the glass, such as Hammered.  So...it's not always clear to
someone as to just what it is we are talking about just by =

referring it the glass by name.

The best thing I did to educate myself on various types and
manufacturers of glass was to purchase sample sets from
the following manufacturers:  Spectrum, Youghiogheny, Kokomo,
Bullseye, Wissmach, Uroboros, and Armstrong.  Then I
purchased a sample set of glue chip glass (which is mostly
from Wissmach) and clear textured glass (various manufacturers)
from one of the distributors from whom I buy.

Well worth the investment, since now I can actually see and
touch the various types of glass.

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
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From owner-glass Sun Nov  2 11:28:12 1997
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X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: "INTERNET:glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Two questions
Date: Sun, 2 Nov 1997 14:06:34 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov2.9634.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Message text written byKeli V:
> Unfortunately, after I finished the piece I realized that through the
clear
glass I used you could see the underneath of the foil.  Just thought you
might like to hear a tip - even tho I am VERY new at this.  =

I learned a lesson.  ;)>

Yep.  That's why you have to choose whether to use regular
copper foil, black backed foil, or silver backed foil based on
the finished patina look, and glass selection.  So...I always
ask myself (or ask my students) what type of finished patina
they envision for the piece, PRIOR to doing any foiling.  This
way they (and I) select the right type of foil for the piece.

BTW, I use copper foil for copper and antique brass patinas.
I use black backed for regular un-patinaed solder and for
black and pewter finishes, and also for all mirror work regardless
of the patina.  Sometimes I use the silver backed foil for some
un-patinaed solder finish, but most of the time I find the black
backed foil look is just fine.  Besides, the silver backed foil
is expensive and I don't particularly like the adhesive used
with it.

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
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From owner-glass Sun Nov  2 11:37:18 1997
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X-Path: cape.com!sjb
From: "Susan Jordan Bennett" <sjb@cape.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: pattern paper
Date: Sun, 2 Nov 1997 14:26:38 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov2.92638.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0008_01BCE79B.650C8E00
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

When making a pattern I cut it from heavy craft paper. I've got a =
pattern design I would like to produce a number of times. Is anyone =
using a product for the patterns that can be reused -- thin plastic, =
etc?

Susan

------=_NextPart_000_0008_01BCE79B.650C8E00
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.71.1712.3"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>When making a pattern I cut it from heavy craft =
paper. I've=20
got a pattern design I would like to produce a number of times. Is =
anyone using=20
a product for the patterns that can be reused -- thin plastic, =
etc?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Susan</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-glass Sun Nov  2 11:41:15 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!IMN2GLASS2
From: IMN2GLASS2@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Help with picture taking...
Date: Sun, 2 Nov 1997 14:40:29 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov2.94029.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

In a message dated 97-11-02 04:59:00 EST, you write:

<<B TW.........I just acquired a new Sony Mavica digital camera.   And I am
 impressed. >>
 hi Pj just curious about the cost of your new camera?I would love to get one
,I saw your web site and the photography of your work was exceptional! thanks
,Judy
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From owner-glass Sun Nov  2 11:41:35 1997
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X-Path: prodigy.com!YWAH36A
From: YWAH36A@prodigy.com ( BOB   DUCHESNEAU)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: RE: Repairs
Date: Sun,  2 Nov 1997 14:37:59, -0500
Message-ID: <199711021938.OAA17646@mime4.prodigy.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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Roejean wrote:
Fortunately there is more than one way to do any job!  I, for one, am 
greatful to ALL the bungi participants for sharing there ideas. While 
there may be times when we need 'perfection' there are certainly as 
many (maybe more!) times when we need and/or want to save the day, 
and our sanity, by a 'quick fix'.  Thanks to those who have shared 
their expertiese on the many ways of doing a job.

Rojean

Bob writes,
  I fully agree with the above. Some repairs are just not worth doing 
in the "best" way. I have no problem with explaining to my clients 
the various options that are available to get their glass back to a 
worthwhile condition. To my way of thinking it is wrong to charge 
$400.00 for a repair in the "best" way and not advise of a $60.00 
repair that will serve the purpose well. To many of us are looking 
for what we want to do or the get righ quick job or the one that will 
at least make that next car payment and not thinking of basic honesty 
to the client. Many clients think that I am an expert and give me a 
trust along with their money. To me that means that I owe them good 
sound advice.
  On the other hand, there are not many weeks that go by before I 
refuse to accept a job, usually for safety or astethic reasons. I 
also will not take a task where the would be client sets a price that 
will not allow a repair that I can stand by.
  Putting on Nomex suit & goggles, Bob

____
Bob Duchesneau (stained glass, beveling, fusing & bending) Mountain 
Meadow Stained Glass, 26746 Mountain Meadow Road, Escondido, CA 92026 
Voice (760) 749-3966 FAX (760) 749-6427
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From owner-glass Sun Nov  2 11:45:28 1997
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X-Path: cyberramp.net!byronw
From: byronw@cyberramp.net
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Two questions
Summary: Authenticated sender is <byronw@cyberramp.net>
Date: Sun, 2 Nov 1997 13:44:56 +0000
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> From:          SSparks99@aol.com
> To:            glass@bungi.com
> Subject:       Two questions
> Date:          Sat, 1 Nov 1997 16:37:16 -0500 (EST)
> Reply-to:      glass@bungi.com

> LM:  
> 
> I am new to this group, a beginner stained glass hobbyist and I have only
> finished two pieces.  The second finshed piece was with copper foil.
>  Unfortunately, after I finished the piece I realized that through the clear
> glass I used you could see the underneath of the foil.  Just thought you
> might like to hear a tip - even tho I am VERY new at this.  
> 
> I learned a lesson.  ;)
> 
> Keli V


Hi Keli....

 Welcome to the group!

 Whenever you use clear glass just use Silver backed foil instead of 
the regular copper backed foil and ya wont see that anymore...
Byron...

Wells Glassworks
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From owner-glass Sun Nov  2 11:57:26 1997
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From: byronw@cyberramp.net
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Subject: Re: Different Glass Types
Summary: Authenticated sender is <byronw@cyberramp.net>
Date: Sun, 2 Nov 1997 13:56:51 +0000
Message-ID: <199711021956.NAA10416@mailhost.cyberramp.net>
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> From:          "Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
> To:            "INTERNET:glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
> Subject:       Different Glass Types
> Date:          Sun, 2 Nov 1997 14:06:40 -0500
> Reply-to:      glass@bungi.com


> 
> The best thing I did to educate myself on various types and
> manufacturers of glass was to purchase sample sets from
> the following manufacturers:  Spectrum, Youghiogheny, Kokomo,
> Bullseye, Wissmach, Uroboros, and Armstrong.  Then I
> purchased a sample set of glue chip glass (which is mostly
> from Wissmach) and clear textured glass (various manufacturers)
> from one of the distributors from whom I buy.
> 
> Well worth the investment, since now I can actually see and
> touch the various types of glass.


 Amen to those words of wisdom!

 If your going to do a lot of work with glass the sample sets are 
sure worth the investment....I've got sets of all glass brands/types 
I use... Heck of a lot easier to show a prospective customer a nice 
sample than to try and explain it or use a picture...

It also helps them and I visualize how the various glass 
colors/textures will work together if you can set pieces on thier 
design...

Byron...

Wells Glassworks
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From owner-glass Sun Nov  2 12:21:29 1997
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From: "Susan Jordan Bennett" <sjb@cape.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: pattern paper -- again
Date: Sun, 2 Nov 1997 15:09:14 -0500
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0022_01BCE7A1.47F4AEA0
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When making a pattern I cut it from heavy craft paper. I've got a =
pattern design I would like to produce a number of times. Is anyone =
using a product for the patterns that can be reused -- thin plastic, =
etc?
=20
Susan

------=_NextPart_000_0022_01BCE7A1.47F4AEA0
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.71.1712.3"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>When making a pattern I cut it from heavy craft =
paper. I've=20
got a pattern design I would like to produce a number of times. Is =
anyone using=20
a product for the patterns that can be reused -- thin plastic, =
etc?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Susan</FONT></DIV></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-glass Sun Nov  2 14:06:29 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!TifStyOrig
From: TifStyOrig@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: pattern paper
Date: Sun, 2 Nov 1997 17:04:24 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov2.12424.0>
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One thought I had for multiple pattern use, particularly if you're using
smaller patterns was to laminate each cut piece.  Naturally, you'd need a
laminating machine.   However, if you don't have a laminating machine, or are
using bigger pattern pieces, why not use clear, thin tranparency paper?  I
haven't tried it, but you'd be able to cut the pieces just like paper, and
you can even run them through your printer if you're using a software program
to design your pieces. PLUS, if you don't have a light table, you'd be able
to see the grain or pattern of the glass so you could place the piece just
where you want to on the sheet of glass.  Transparency sheets are more
expensive than paper, but are readibly available at any office supply store.
Just a thought..........I think I'll give it a try myself.

Diane Manchester
Tiffany Styled Originals
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From owner-glass Sun Nov  2 14:16:19 1997
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From: "Susan Jordan Bennett" <sjb@cape.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: pattern paper
Date: Sun, 2 Nov 1997 17:06:02 -0500
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Diane,

The transparency paper sounds like it's worth a try. It may be a bit pricy,
but I don't care if it saves me time from making duplicate patterns.

Thanks!
Susan


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From owner-glass Sun Nov  2 14:28:24 1997
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From: jroey@juno.com (Jerri M Roey)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Framing questions
Date: Sun, 2 Nov 1997 17:22:54 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov2.122254.0>
References: <<199711021938.OAA17646@mime4.prodigy.com>>
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Hi all,

	I know people were just talking about wood frames, and I've never
used them.  I was wondering which products people liked best.  I've been
looking at the "Oak Framing Stock" that Delphi sells that comes in 6'
lengths.  They also have some pre-cut oak, which looks like it would be
good too.  W/C has some called "Pop-Lock" which look relatively simple,
but I'm not sure I'd like them because the corners aren't mitred.  I
would love anyone's opinions on these products or any other wood frame
products.

	Also, what about the side mount chain hooks to eliminate " top
stress"?  Is it better for larger panels to be hung from the side rather
than the top?  What about small panels?  Does it matter?

Thanks,

Jerri
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From owner-glass Sun Nov  2 15:45:59 1997
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X-Path: gjr
From: gjr@bungi.com (Glenna Rand)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: pattern paper
Date: Sun, 2 Nov 1997 15:44:09 PST
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[In the message entitled "pattern paper" on Nov  2, 14:26, "Susan Jordan Bennett" writes:]
> This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

> When making a pattern I cut it from heavy craft paper. I've got a =
> pattern design I would like to produce a number of times. Is anyone =
> using a product for the patterns that can be reused -- thin plastic, =
> etc?

What about laminating a piece of cardboard for added durability..??..



-- 
Glenna Rand
gjr@bungi.com
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From owner-glass Sun Nov  2 16:38:04 1997
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X-Path: ComCAT.COM!suzy
From: suzanne albright <suzy@ComCAT.COM>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: pattern paper
Date: Sun, 2 Nov 97 19:38:27 -0400
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>When making a pattern I cut it from heavy craft paper. I've got a =
>pattern design I would like to produce a number of times. Is anyone =
>using a product for the patterns that can be reused -- thin plastic, =
>etc?

Susan, if your pattern is less than 11x17, you can easily find a printer 
(such as Sir Speedy, Budget, etc.) with a laminating machine. It doesn't 
cost much to have the whole thing laminated, then cut it out and use the 
laminated pieces as your template. Worked for me!
 

Suzanne Albright
suzydotcom
"A thing of beauty is a joy forever."



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From owner-glass Sun Nov  2 16:58:58 1997
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Subject: Re: Solder...63/37???
Date: Sun, 02 Nov 1997 20:00:47 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov2.15047.0>
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M.-J. wrote:
> 
> Dear Bob,
> 
> Thanks so much for a very informative post. I really learned a lot!
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> M.-J.
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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Hi MJ, glad I found your address on another thread. I did receive the
zip file you sent and I do appreciate it. Sorry to take so long to reply
but I deleted all my mail, yours included.
					Thanks again, paula
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From owner-glass Sun Nov  2 17:51:59 1997
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X-Path: cornell.edu!bjs10
From: Barbara <bjs10@cornell.edu>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: pattern paper
Date: Sun, 2 Nov 1997 20:48:54 -0500 (EST)
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At 07:38 PM 11/2/97 -0400, you wrote:

>Susan, if your pattern is less than 11x17, you can easily find a printer 
>(such as Sir Speedy, Budget, etc.) with a laminating machine. It doesn't 
>cost much to have the whole thing laminated, then cut it out and use the 
>laminated pieces as your template. Worked for me!
> 
>
>Suzanne Albright

        This is a good idea... what if I cut the pattern pieces out
carefully with an exacto knife and then used the template like a stencil....
tracing from the inside of the pieces instead of around the outside....
would this be asking for trouble?
>
Barbara Snell
Cornell University

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From owner-glass Sun Nov  2 17:52:34 1997
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From: Barbara <bjs10@cornell.edu>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Old Foil
Date: Sun, 2 Nov 1997 20:48:57 -0500 (EST)
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Hello List,
        I recently bought some glass, a grinder, a few tools and some
pattern books at a yard sale as a package deal... When I got all the goodies
home I also discovered several rolls of foil that were tucked into the box... 
        I remember during our conversation that the seller used to teach and
had been storing the stuff in her attic for about 11 years.
        Can I use the foil?  Is there a good way of refreshing the foil or
am I better off chucking it out...  Thanks for you thoughts...
Barbara Snell
Cornell University

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From owner-glass Sun Nov  2 18:40:00 1997
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Old Foil
Date: Sun, 02 Nov 1997 21:35:12 -0500
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Barbara wrote:
> 
> Hello List,
>         I recently bought some glass, a grinder, a few tools and some
> pattern books at a yard sale as a package deal... When I got all the goodies
> home I also discovered several rolls of foil that were tucked into the box...
>         I remember during our conversation that the seller used to teach and
> had been storing the stuff in her attic for about 11 years.
>         Can I use the foil?  Is there a good way of refreshing the foil or
> am I better off chucking it out...  Thanks for you thoughts...
> Barbara Snell
> Cornell University
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


personally i would'nt chance the foil. i have foil a few years old, and
it's no longer any good. the rest of the stuff should be good. if
anything, try a test, i would'nt use it on a good project though.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
 New Pages Added: 11 New Tip Pages, Including: Random Tips, Box Making
Tips, How to Fix Scratched Glass, Getting Pictures, How to Maintain
Tools and How Long They Last, Pictures of my Lamp Lit, 1 New Project,
Shopping Lists, and See My Bio with a picture of ME.
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From owner-glass Sun Nov  2 18:59:17 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!IMN2GLASS2
From: IMN2GLASS2@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: pattern paper
Date: Sun, 2 Nov 1997 21:56:15 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov2.165615.0>
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In a message dated 97-11-02 14:40:33 EST, you write:

<<  Is anyone =
 using a product for the patterns that can be reused -- thin plastic, =
 etc? >>
                    I use a product from Rubbermaid company ,Just plain ole
clear contact paper! It is easy to laminate your pieces with it and it seems
to keep water off your pieces and oils from the cutter. IMHO,i like it it is
not cheap but it does the trick.,Judy
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From owner-glass Sun Nov  2 19:43:44 1997
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X-Path: gjr
From: gjr@bungi.com (Glenna Rand)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: pattern paper
Date: Sun, 2 Nov 1997 19:41:50 PST
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[In the message entitled "Re: pattern paper" on Nov  2, 21:56, IMN2GLASS2@aol.com writes:]

>  using a product for the patterns that can be reused -- thin plastic, =
>  etc? >>
>                     I use a product from Rubbermaid company ,Just plain ole
> clear contact paper! It is easy to laminate your pieces with it and it seems
> to keep water off your pieces and oils from the cutter. IMHO,i like it it is
> not cheap but it does the trick.,Judy


Where did you get it?



-- 
Glenna Rand
gjr@bungi.com
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From owner-glass Sun Nov  2 21:31:43 1997
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X-Path: prodigy.com!YWAH36A
From: YWAH36A@prodigy.com ( BOB   DUCHESNEAU)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: pattern paper
Date: Mon,  3 Nov 1997 00:22:04, -0500
Message-ID: <199711030522.AAA10736@mime4.prodigy.com>
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Susan wrote in part:
<<  Is anyone  using a product for the patterns that can be reused -- 
thin plastic,  etc? >>

Bob suggests,
  Now is the time to check out the junk yard or recycling center. 
First gather up all your scrap lead and other metals. Second go to 
the place of your choosing and demand cash for your goodies. Third 
look aground. You may very well find some thin copper or aluminum 
sheet that will cut with scissors and make everlasting patterns. Also 
look around for copper wire of all gauges and buy plenty to share 
with your friends.
  Failing this, go to the local newspaper and see if they use thin 
aluminum sheet in their printing process. Most do these days and once 
used are scrap. 
  Getting money for scrap and finding real bargains in metal needs is 
a most satisfying experience.
  Need to go soon, Bob

____
Bob Duchesneau (stained glass, beveling, fusing & bending) Mountain 
Meadow Stained Glass, 26746 Mountain Meadow Road, Escondido, CA 92026 
Voice (760) 749-3966 FAX (760) 749-6427
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From owner-glass Mon Nov  3 03:27:49 1997
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X-Path: juno.com!debbiesgarden
From: debbiesgarden@juno.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: pattern paper
Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 06:26:32 EST
Message-ID: <1997Nov3.112632.0>
References: <<1997Nov2.92638.0>>
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On Sun, 2 Nov 1997 14:26:38 -0500 "Susan Jordan Bennett" <sjb@cape.com>
writes:
>
>When making a pattern I cut it from heavy craft paper. I've got a =
>pattern design I would like to produce a number of times. Is anyone =
>using a product for the patterns that can be reused -- thin plastic, =
>etc?
>
>Susan

I usually use a fine tip sharpie and go directly on the glass, but
sometimes I do need a pattern for repetition. My husband works in the
Radiology department of a hospital. They throw out tons of clear x-ray
film. When they open the boxes, the first several sheets at the beginning
of the film are exposed, making them clear, they are perfect and free.
They give it to anyone who asks for it. You can also buy a mylar type of
plastic at larger fabric stores that sell quilting supplies. They are
used for making stencils for quilting designs. I have also used clear
contact paper. You can buy contact paper at wal-mart. It's usually in the
section where they sell shelf paper for kitchen cabinets.
Debbie T
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From owner-glass Mon Nov  3 05:58:25 1997
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Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="------------F122A5C5A90"
Subject: [Fwd: Re: pattern paper]
Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 08:48:55 -0800
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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If the pattern is small enough or you want to tape pieces together you 
might try overhead transparencies through a regular copier.  It works 
great for patterns that you are going to need many copies of.  Pattern 
shears also cut it but you have to go very slowly.  They are alittle 
expensive but are really easy to use and worth it for the time you save.
Nancy

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From: FORWARDED@prodigy.com (Susan Jordan Bennett)
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Diane,

The transparency paper sounds like it's worth a try. It may be a bit pricy,
but I don't care if it saves me time from making duplicate patterns.

Thanks!
Susan


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From owner-glass Mon Nov  3 06:11:13 1997
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From: NGranger <NGranger@Prodigy.Net>
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Subject: Re: Multiple cuts w/bandsaw
Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 09:00:14 -0800
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GeeHaeb@aol.com wrote:
> =

> Message forwarded from Classic Prodigy=AE
> =

>     ---------------------------------------------------------------
> =

> Subject: Re: Re: Multiple cuts w/bandsaw
> Date: Fri, 31 Oct 1997 18:39:37 -0500 (EST)
> From: GeeHaeb@aol.com
> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
> To: glass@bungi.com
> =

> There is a kit available for repairing band saw blades.  It includes
> instructions, a jig, and a couple of clamps with a little silver solder, =
and
> you need a torch to do it. A tiny bit of solder does the job, and you
> probably will need to really file it down to keep the blade from "thumpin=
g"
> through the glass. Some folks seem to break quite a few blades, and other=
s
> never have a problem.  It seems to be more the type of use than the quali=
ty
> of the blade that makes the difference.  You really need to let the blade=
 do
> the work for you and take your time, especially with some of the smaller
> saws. Try to avoid twisting the blade, and remember that two or three rep=
airs
> on the same blade and it will be too short to fit your saw, as you cut a
> little out each time.
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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Thanks, its good information to have.  I'm not sure I'll try it with this =

one.  I found that the person I bought the saw from had the blade on it =

with tension for over four years.  Hoping that is what stressed the =

blade. I put a new one on. Will see how it goes, may end up needing the =

kit anyway.
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From owner-glass Mon Nov  3 07:34:34 1997
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From: "PREFERRED CUSTOMER" <jurab@email.msn.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Plating & Foiling Machines
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 10:30:41 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov3.53041.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Will someone direct me to a book that will explain plating?  Also I would
like to know which foiling machines are the most effecient.  I have Glastar
but I find it easier to foil by hand than use it.  



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From owner-glass Mon Nov  3 09:45:20 1997
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From: seaspray@mail.island.net (Carol Swann)
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Re: pattern paper
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 09:44:07 -0800
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For production work I make templates from thin card stock (about the weight
of many glass pattern book covers), marking the direction the glass grain
show go with an arrow.  I use these regardless of whether I'm using
cathedral or opaqua glass.  I keep each set in an envelope for future reuse.

Although I'm doing less production work now I've been able to trace dozens
of repeats before I need to recut the pattern piece.

I can't imagine how long it would take to stick down pattern pieces, cut,
remove the pattern, restick it and cut again.  That way you'd be able to cut
only one at a time, instead of 6 or 12 or whatever you decided to make.  It
speeds the process up considerably to be able to make a whole pile of cuts
before stopping to break the scores.

Cheers
Carol

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From owner-glass Mon Nov  3 10:00:38 1997
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X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: "INTERNET:glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Framing questions
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 12:58:02 -0500
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Message text written by Jerri:
>       I know people were just talking about wood frames, and I've never=

used them.  I was wondering which products people liked best.  I've been
looking at the "Oak Framing Stock" that Delphi sells that comes in 6'
lengths.  They also have some pre-cut oak, which looks like it would be
good too.  W/C has some called "Pop-Lock" which look relatively simple,
but I'm not sure I'd like them because the corners aren't mitred.  I
would love anyone's opinions on these products or any other wood frame
products.

        Also, what about the side mount chain hooks to eliminate " top
stress"?  Is it better for larger panels to be hung from the side rather
than the top?  What about small panels?  Does it matter?
Thanks,  Jerri<

Oh boy, did you ever ask some good questions!
Personally, I like to use the Northern Hardwoods oak framing stock.  This=

is probably the manufacturer that Delphi sells, as they come in both 6'
lengths which you cut yourself, or in various lengths already cut, mitere=
d
and drilled out for the screws.  In fact, I just ordered quite a few of
them
on Saturday for some up-coming projects.

I have never used the Pop-Lock system.  Anyone out there have any
opinions?

The side mount hooks are installed on the two sides of the frame.  By
installing them on the sides rather than on the top of the frame, you
spread the stress of weight bearing down the entire length of the side,
rather than at just two points at the top.  Whenever possible, use the
side-mounted hooks whether it's for a large or small framed panel.

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
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From owner-glass Mon Nov  3 10:08:21 1997
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X-Path: nwu.edu!alansing
From: Amy Lansing <alansing@nwu.edu>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: pattern paper
Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 12:05:24 -0600
Message-ID: <3.0.2.32.19971103120524.0104f958@merle.acns.nwu.edu>
References: <<1997Nov2.1262.0>>
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Precedence: bulk

I use clear contact paper attached to both sides of the pattern before I
cut out the pieces.  The contact paper is easy to remove before you cut the
pieces & it lasts forever.  You can also erase numbers & color codes on it
for the next time you use the pattern.  Amy 



At 05:06 PM 11/2/97 -0500, you wrote:
>Diane,
>
>The transparency paper sounds like it's worth a try. It may be a bit pricy,
>but I don't care if it saves me time from making duplicate patterns.
>
>Thanks!
>Susan
>
>
>----
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>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
>
Amy Lansing
Deputy Project Coordinator
Psycho-Legal Studies
Northwestern University Medical School
710 N. Lake Shore Drive, Suite #900
Chicago, IL 60611

Office:  (312) 503-3500
FAX:     (312) 503-3535
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From owner-glass Mon Nov  3 10:23:02 1997
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From: BettyTBoop@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: subscription removal
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 13:21:41 -0500 (EST)
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Please remove me from the list.
Bettytboop@aol.com
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From owner-glass Mon Nov  3 10:56:20 1997
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From: "Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: "INTERNET:glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: pattern paper
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 12:57:58 -0500
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Message text written by Susan:
>When making a pattern I cut it from heavy craft paper. I've got a =3D
pattern design I would like to produce a number of times. Is anyone =3D
using a product for the patterns that can be reused -- thin plastic, =3D
etc?<

Cut out the pattern as per normal.  Then place the pieces on clear
contact paper.  Then cover the other side with some more clear
contact paper.  Then cut out the pieces again with Exacto knife or
regular scissors.  This takes time, but you have a pattern which is
completely sealed and is impervious to water, flux, etc.  Can be
used indefinitely.

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
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From owner-glass Mon Nov  3 12:15:05 1997
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X-Path: worldnet.att.net!summit-stained-glass
From: mike peck <summit-stained-glass@worldnet.att.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Reducing glare on historic panel
Date: Sat, 01 Nov 1997 09:21:11 -0600
Message-ID: <1997Nov1.32111.0>
References: <<1997Oct31.123019.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

But what do I do with the
> clear and cathedral older glass in order to cut down on the glare?
> 
> I don't want to do anything to the older panel which someone else after
> me wouldn't be able to undo for conservation reasons.  So that rules out
> etching the glass.  Is there something like a film I can put on the back
> of the glass which would reduce the glare, and could be removed by
> a later restorer?  Or maybe I plate a second layer of lightly frosted gla=
> ss
> onto the back to the older panel?


Christie,

Just a thought, but there are clear polyurethanes (even in spray
cans)that have a semi gloss or even satin finish. Probably ought to try
it on some scrap glass first! 

Frankly, I think your idea of a sheet of non-glare glass in front of the
panel is the best idea.  The polyurethane is bound to dampen the effects
of even a clear cathedral.

Buy your customer a pair of cheap sunglasses and maybe they'll get the
hint!

Mike Peck
Summit Stained Glass
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From owner-glass Mon Nov  3 12:15:40 1997
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From: mike peck <summit-stained-glass@worldnet.att.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Glenna Rand
Date: Sat, 01 Nov 1997 16:11:41 -0600
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Glenna,

Can you send me your private email address, please?  

Mike Peck
Summit Stained Glass
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From owner-glass Mon Nov  3 12:16:15 1997
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From: mike peck <summit-stained-glass@worldnet.att.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Different Glass Types
Date: Sun, 02 Nov 1997 07:18:24 -0600
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References: <<1997Nov1.101321.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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> 
> Hi Keli-
> Kokomo has a pretty decent video out showing how they make their glass... it's quite well done - several glass shops in our area rent it out and perhaps one in your area does, too
> Dani
> 
> Dani
> I would like more info on this video (for my classes), where can one buy this video.
> Glenn Spicer
> The Studio Metamorphoses


Glenn,

The only place I know of that has it is Kokomo Opalescent Glass
Company.  I visited them about two years ago and picked up a copy of the
video from their Op Shop.  Call them (765)457-8139 and ask for the Op
Shop.  It cost $20 when I bought mine, and it is worth it!

Mike Peck
Summit Stained Glass
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From owner-glass Mon Nov  3 12:25:16 1997
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X-Path: juno.com!glass_artist
From: glass_artist@juno.com (Lori J Maas)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Web pages...
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 14:17:25 -0600
Message-ID: <1997Nov3.81725.0>
References: <<1997Oct30.34425.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk




>Stained Glass Biz would be happy to gather patterns from everyone and 
>create
>an online archive.  Storing the patterns is no problem, we'll need 
>either
>scans or photocopies (sent to us to scan).  If you're interested, 
>let's get
>the ball rolling!
>
>Pete

I think it's a great idea! I was just about to donate time and space to
making a bungi pattern website.

I have a degree in fine art and have the capability of drawing my own
patterns. Unfortunately not everyone can do this... that doesn't keep
them from enjoying creating stained glass.  I used pattern books, but
found out they're not worth my money because I can't re-sell the patterns
inside. It seemed a huge waste considering the price I paid for the book.
 As an artist, if I create a spectacular work that I wish to keep as my
creation only, then I will restrict people from it's reproduction. Right
now, I copyright my original designs, but only to prevent someone from
using it and saying, "look what I designed!" Without throwing credit my
way.  I was a contributor to the original bungi pattern archive and still
encourage people to use my patterns in reproduction. The gist of it
is...if I don't want it duplicated, I won't make it available...but,if I
can  throw a little help & enjoyment out there for the novice artists,
then so be it!
LJ



_____________________________________________________________________________
LJ Maas, artist & owner can be reached at:  artist@busprod.com

ART WITH ATTITUDE Stained Glass Design at
<http://www.art-with-attitude.com/glass/artglass.html>
handcrafted & unique stained glass gift items
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From owner-glass Mon Nov  3 12:39:30 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!IMN2GLASS2
From: IMN2GLASS2@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: pattern paper -- again
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 15:38:34 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov3.103834.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Glenna,I use rubbermaid ULTRA contact paper which can be purchased at any
department store that carries home goods and house wares.It cost about eight
to ten dollars a roll. hope this helps,Judy(imn2glass2)
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From owner-glass Mon Nov  3 13:14:31 1997
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: pattern paper
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 20:53:49 +0000
Message-ID: <1997Nov3.205349.0>
References: <<1997Nov3.75758.0@?>>
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In message <1997Nov3.75758.0@?>, Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo
<Ensembles@compuserve.com> writes
>Message text written by Susan:
>>When making a pattern I cut it from heavy craft paper. I've got a =3D
>pattern design I would like to produce a number of times. Is anyone =3D
>using a product for the patterns that can be reused -- thin plastic, =3D
>etc?<
Why not use sheets of clear acetate?  you can see through, need to cut
only once, lasts a long time.  Place flat acetate sheet on top of
drawing, pattern, etc. , then cut and if necessary break sheet on score
lines.
steve
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From owner-glass Mon Nov  3 13:28:50 1997
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X-Path: slonet.org!edupjohn
From: "Peggy W. Johnsen" <edupjohn@slonet.org>
To: PREFERRED CUSTOMER <jurab@email.msn.com>
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Plating & Foiling Machines
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 13:26:19 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov3.52619.0>
References: <<1997Nov3.53041.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi Preferred Customer.  What kind of plating?  There is the kind where you
add a layer of glass to the backside of a project and the kind where you
have the solder or came plated with a different kind of metal.  Plating of
the metal variety can usually be found in the library.  Of the other, see
the lastest issue of Common Ground and Robert Oddy.  

Foiling machines will take time and patience to use.  Have you tried the
little hand foiler?  That helps center the foil for you do do it by hand.
I actually find myself using the foiling machine to hold the foil and then
use the hand foiler as a matter of precision and convenience.  PJ

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From owner-glass Mon Nov  3 13:33:23 1997
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From: "Peggy W. Johnsen" <edupjohn@slonet.org>
To: Carol Swann <seaspray@mail.island.net>
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: pattern paper
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 13:30:29 -0800 (PST)
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References: <<199711031744.JAA23125@norm.island.net>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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Carol:  You talked about the time element involved in gluing pattern
pieces down...you are right.  However, I have found some of my students
prefer this because it gives them more security in getting the glass cut
"just right."  I usually give students a choice and explain there are
times when them trace or cut through clear (English method); trace around
a pattern template; and when they do, in fact, glue the pattern to the
glass.  Depends on how secure they are with their ability to cut glass is
the bottom line.  PJ

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From owner-glass Mon Nov  3 13:35:56 1997
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From: "Peggy W. Johnsen" <edupjohn@slonet.org>
To: "Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Framing questions
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 13:33:48 -0800 (PST)
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Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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Hi everyone.  Questions about framing include where to get them.  Actually
frames are quite expensive.  I have found garage sales one of my best
sources.  You can usually find some nice solid frames suitable for glass
panels.  Sometimes I have to refinish them but overall they do their job.
PJ

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From owner-glass Mon Nov  3 13:44:21 1997
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From: "Peggy W. Johnsen" <edupjohn@slonet.org>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Pattern Making
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 13:42:37 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov3.54237.0>
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Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

On the subject of pattern making:  I bought a box of self-sticking label
paper with the idea of running the pattern (8 x10) through a copier and
ten after I cut out the pattern all I had to do was to stick it on the
glass.  After a couple of years, I still have a nice box of the
do-it-yourself laser label paper...I can't find a reason to do it to
justify the cost of the laser label paper.  Usually find that card stock
is suitable for pattern shears and allows unlimited use of pattern
templates.  PJ

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From owner-glass Mon Nov  3 13:52:10 1997
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Reusche & Co
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 21:20:00 +0000
Message-ID: <1997Nov3.21200.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Does anyone have an e-mail address for Reusche & CO, 1299 H Street,
Greeley, CO 80631, USA?

I'd like to communicate with them, but can't find them on the internet.

Thanks in advance.
-- 
Steve Richard
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From owner-glass Mon Nov  3 14:26:10 1997
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Web pages...
Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 17:23:49 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov3.122349.0>
References: <<1997Nov3.81725.0>>
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Lori J Maas wrote:
> 
> >Stained Glass Biz would be happy to gather patterns from everyone and
> >create
> >an online archive.  Storing the patterns is no problem, we'll need
> >either
> >scans or photocopies (sent to us to scan).  If you're interested,
> >let's get
> >the ball rolling!
> >
> >Pete
> 
> I think it's a great idea! I was just about to donate time and space to
> making a bungi pattern website.
> 
> I have a degree in fine art and have the capability of drawing my own
> patterns. Unfortunately not everyone can do this... that doesn't keep
> them from enjoying creating stained glass.  I used pattern books, but
> found out they're not worth my money because I can't re-sell the patterns
> inside. It seemed a huge waste considering the price I paid for the book.
>  As an artist, if I create a spectacular work that I wish to keep as my
> creation only, then I will restrict people from it's reproduction. Right
> now, I copyright my original designs, but only to prevent someone from
> using it and saying, "look what I designed!" Without throwing credit my
> way.  I was a contributor to the original bungi pattern archive and still
> encourage people to use my patterns in reproduction. The gist of it
> is...if I don't want it duplicated, I won't make it available...but,if I
> can  throw a little help & enjoyment out there for the novice artists,
> then so be it!
> LJ
> 
> _____________________________________________________________________________
> LJ Maas, artist & owner can be reached at:  artist@busprod.com
> 
> ART WITH ATTITUDE Stained Glass Design at
> <http://www.art-with-attitude.com/glass/artglass.html>
> handcrafted & unique stained glass gift items
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


how does someone go about copy righting work? and how much does it cost?

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
 New Pages Added: 11 New Tip Pages, Including: Random Tips, Box Making
Tips, How to Fix Scratched Glass, Getting Pictures, How to Maintain
Tools and How Long They Last, Pictures of my Lamp Lit, 1 New Project,
Shopping Lists, and See My Bio with a picture of ME.
----
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From owner-glass Mon Nov  3 14:32:40 1997
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: estimating a price
Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 17:30:48 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov3.123048.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

today a co-worker came up to me and asked if they could build a project
for them. although i heard all sorts of methods of pricing, estimating
something before it's built is a bit more tricky. i gave her a price of
$150.00. this is what the panel would be:

18" in diameter, it's a circle (the world). there are letters coming out
of it, like superman letters. it sticks out above the circle. 

the colors would probably be all spectrum. the colors i had in mind
would be blue water glass, aqua water glass, clear semi-ant, and white
boroque.

it's a free hanging panel, it's going in the window of a store. i figure
i may put some kind of stiff came around it, though that's still up in
the air.

based on this, what kind of price wuod you give? and does my price sound
too high or fair? 

generally all my stuff is pretty complex, and i really don't sell a ton
of stuff. i just hate being confronted for an estimate, and just looking
dumb...staring at the picture.

oh btw the pattern is pretty much done, i would need to add break lines.
and a few of the cuts would need a bandsaw for a neater appearence.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
 New Pages Added: 11 New Tip Pages, Including: Random Tips, Box Making
Tips, How to Fix Scratched Glass, Getting Pictures, How to Maintain
Tools and How Long They Last, Pictures of my Lamp Lit, 1 New Project,
Shopping Lists, and See My Bio with a picture of ME.
----
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From owner-glass Mon Nov  3 14:54:12 1997
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X-Path: ob1.kenobe.edu.on.ca!amesken
From: Ken Ames <amesken@ob1.kenobe.edu.on.ca>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: wolf picture or pattern
Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 16:50:56 -0600
Message-ID: <345E554F.FBACB62@ob1.kenobe.edu.on.ca>
References: <<199710261726.NAA17602@mime4.prodigy.com>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

We are trying to find a pattern of a wolf face or full body.  Have not
sent to this group before.  Hope I am doing things correctly.  Carol

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From owner-glass Mon Nov  3 14:58:28 1997
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X-Path: ComCAT.COM!suzy
From: suzanne albright <suzy@ComCAT.COM>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: pattern paper
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 97 18:00:33 -0400
Message-ID: <199711032257.RAA15601@uz.ComCAT.COM>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

           
>
>At 07:38 PM 11/2/97 -0400, you wrote:
>
>>Susan, if your pattern is less than 11x17, you can easily find a printer 
>>(such as Sir Speedy, Budget, etc.) with a laminating machine. It doesn't 
>>cost much to have the whole thing laminated, then cut it out and use the 
>>laminated pieces as your template. Worked for me!
>> 
>>
>>Suzanne Albright
>
>        This is a good idea... what if I cut the pattern pieces out
>carefully with an exacto knife and then used the template like a stencil....
>tracing from the inside of the pieces instead of around the outside....
>would this be asking for trouble?
>>
>Barbara Snell
>Cornell University


Susan, you would cut the laminated pattern apart with pattern shears the 
same as you would on regular pattern paper. No need to go through all the 
trouble of cutting with an exacto knife and tracing from the inside.  


Suzanne Albright
suzydotcom
"A thing of beauty is a joy forever."



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From owner-glass Mon Nov  3 15:06:39 1997
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From: Ken Ames <amesken@ob1.kenobe.edu.on.ca>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Paterns or picture of wolf
Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 17:03:25 -0600
Message-ID: <345E583D.8C3D61F1@ob1.kenobe.edu.on.ca>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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Hi :     From another lurker!
A little nervous about sending this request, as I am am quite computer
illiterate.  Would anyone know where I could find a wolf pattern that
could be done in copper foil?
Thanks in advance.      Carol

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From owner-glass Mon Nov  3 15:28:55 1997
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X-Path: matnet.com!rogert
From: "Tyler, Roger D." <rogert@matnet.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re:Copyright
Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 14:17:32 -0800
Message-ID: <1.5.4.32.19971103221732.006984e8@primary.matnet.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

There is no charge for copyrighting ones works.  One need only state in writing that the work is copyrighted, stating what it is protected against, use the circled c copyright sign, date it and it's a done deal. Usually detailed writing is found on paper, with only the circled c put on objects such as your glass objects. Info explaining this can be found in any public library.  I would guess it's also available on the net...  somewhere.  Trouble with copyright is enforcement of your rights.  You would have to press charges against someone you suspected of enfringing on your copyright. 
Good Luck
Rojean
rogert@matnet.com 
>
>
>how does someone go about copy righting work? and how much does it cost?
>
>---Mike Savad
>
>-- 
>Mike's Stained Glass
>http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
> New Pages Added: 11 New Tip Pages, Including: Random Tips, Box Making
>Tips, How to Fix Scratched Glass, Getting Pictures, How to Maintain
>Tools and How Long They Last, Pictures of my Lamp Lit, 1 New Project,
>Shopping Lists, and See My Bio with a picture of ME.
>----
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>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
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From owner-glass Mon Nov  3 15:31:01 1997
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X-Path: computer.net!alewis
From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@computer.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Reusche & Co
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@computer.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 18:23:47 +0000
Message-ID: <199711032316.SAA29629@ns.computer.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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> Does anyone have an e-mail address for Reusche & CO, 1299 H Street,
> Greeley, CO 80631, USA?
> I'd like to communicate with them, but can't find them on the 
internet.

They apparently don't have one, Steve. Of the 634 suppliers included 
in the Guild's online Sources Guide (see below), only 15% have email 
addresses.

Albert


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From owner-glass Mon Nov  3 15:41:17 1997
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: a site i found
Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 18:39:20 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov3.133920.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

i'll probably be putting this one on my links list. it has quite a bit
of stuff in it. i suggest to to the site map to navigate, it's a little
hard to find anything otherwise..

http://www.rainbow.co.nz/karal/Index.html

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
 New Pages Added: 11 New Tip Pages, Including: Random Tips, Box Making
Tips, How to Fix Scratched Glass, Getting Pictures, How to Maintain
Tools and How Long They Last, Pictures of my Lamp Lit, 1 New Project,
Shopping Lists, and See My Bio with a picture of ME.
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From owner-glass Mon Nov  3 16:27:44 1997
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X-Path: juno.com!debbiesgarden
From: debbiesgarden@juno.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Web pages...
Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 18:47:25 EST
Message-ID: <1997Nov3.234725.0>
References: <<1997Oct30.34425.0>>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


On Mon, 3 Nov 1997 14:17:25 -0600 glass_artist@juno.com (Lori J Maas)
writes:
>

,if I can  throw a little help & enjoyment out there for the novice
artists,
>then so be it!
>LJ
>
>Wow! I wish there were more people like you out there. Your ideas will
inspire others  to start their first piece. I know when I first started I
wasn't sure if I could do it. The price of the patterns nearly scared me
away. Thank you for being generous.
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From owner-glass Mon Nov  3 16:52:20 1997
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X-Path: juno.com!jroey
From: jroey@juno.com (Jerri M Roey)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: wolf picture or pattern
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 19:17:37 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov3.141737.0>
References: <<199710261726.NAA17602@mime4.prodigy.com>>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

There's a book called *Wildlife of the North* with a howling wolf on the
cover.  I can't remember if there's any more wolf patterns inside.  



On Mon, 03 Nov 1997 16:50:56 -0600 Ken Ames
<amesken@ob1.kenobe.edu.on.ca> writes:
>We are trying to find a pattern of a wolf face or full body.  Have not
>sent to this group before.  Hope I am doing things correctly.  Carol
>
>----
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>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
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From owner-glass Mon Nov  3 17:01:11 1997
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X-Path: matnet.com!rogert
From: "Tyler, Roger D." <rogert@matnet.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Reusche & Co
Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 15:49:39 -0800
Message-ID: <1.5.4.32.19971103234939.00697f3c@primary.matnet.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Reusche & Co.

Newark, NJ 07105 USA 
973-589-2040 
FAX: 973-589-0478

Ceramic Colors For Glass & Porcelain; Brushes.

Above is copied from the Thomas Register on line, it appears this may not be the one you are searching for.  At any rate, there is no E-mail address given.

Rojean
rogert@matnet.com
Alaska






At 06:23 PM 11/3/97 +0000, you wrote:
>
>> Does anyone have an e-mail address for Reusche & CO, 1299 H Street,
>> Greeley, CO 80631, USA?
>> I'd like to communicate with them, but can't find them on the 
>internet.
>
>They apparently don't have one, Steve. Of the 634 suppliers included 
>in the Guild's online Sources Guide (see below), only 15% have email 
>addresses.
>
>Albert
>
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
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From owner-glass Mon Nov  3 17:23:51 1997
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From: IMN2GLASS2@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Patterns or picture of wolf
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 20:22:44 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov3.152244.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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I just got a neat wolf pattern from glasdesign ,a german pattern company,it
has a lot of animal pics init meant for maosaic work but I don't see why it
can't be used as a copper foil panel.The pic of the pack of wolves in the
moonlight is just awesome!
the name of the pattern book is GlasDesign Wildlife.Check it out,Imn2glass2
----
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From owner-glass Mon Nov  3 17:51:20 1997
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	for rglass-42; Mon, 3 Nov 1997 17:50:36 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #8 built 1997-Jun-19)
X-Path: seaside.net!gspicer
From: "Glenn Spicer" <gspicer@seaside.net>
To: "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: $Patterns$
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 17:28:52 -0800
Message-ID: <1997Nov3.92852.0>
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Glenn wrote

I understand the need of those who do not have the artistic ability to =
do original work to "need " pattern archives ( there ARE copious =
quantities of books out there with every conceivable level of glass =
work). BUT those of us who have the ability usually have a "need" to be =
paid for our work (it has taken us many years of practice and/or =
schooling to get to this point) which may be the reason that not many =
participated the last time this was tried. Now as a teacher, I do wish =
to help those working for their own enjoyment and not for profit, and =
would be willing to contribute, but for those wishing to profit from the =
work of others there is the rule of copyright. Fair is fair, and fear =
not, I would pursue anyone using my designs for profit without  my =
written permission (and usually remuneration). I hope I do not seem too =
hard, but my bread and butter comes from my time in designing. I hope I =
am not the only one feeling this way about archives.


Tyler wrote
Archives would be terrific for those of us who are less artistically =
inclined.  It is a great way for all to see what can be done with =
experience.  Those who fear being copied (the highest form of flattery) =
need only keep their designs safely tucked away in the back room.=20
Lori J Maas wrote
I think it's a great idea! I was just about to donate time and space to =
making a bungi pattern website.
I have a degree in fine art and have the capability of drawing my own =
patterns. Unfortunately not everyone can do this... that doesn't keep =
them from enjoying creating stained glass.  I used pattern books, but =
found out they're not worth my money because I can't re-sell the =
patterns inside. It seemed a huge waste considering the price I paid for =
the book.  As an artist, if I create a spectacular work that I wish to =
keep as my creation only, then I will restrict people from it's =
reproduction. Right now, I copyright my original designs, but only to =
prevent someone from using it and saying, "look what I designed!" =
Without throwing credit my way.  I was a contributor to the original =
bungi pattern archive and still encourage people to use my patterns in =
reproduction. The gist of it is...if I don't want it duplicated, I won't =
make it available...but,if I can  throw a little help & enjoyment out =
there for the novice artists, then so be it!
LJ

Mike Savad wrote
how does someone go about copy righting work? and how much does it cost?
-----------------------------
I may have to repeat some of what I said in the beginning

Tyler:=20
"Those who fear being copied (the highest form of flattery) need only =
keep their designs safely tucked away in the back room. "
"those of us who are less artistically inclined." There are copyright =
free designs (if you are interested in selling and many more if you =
don't plan on making a profit) out there that are available for just =
these people. I don't go to my mechanic and say can you fix my car for =
free, I'm not mechanically inclined.
I don't "fear" being copied those copying non-copyright free without =
permission should do the fearing
"Flattery" I do not need, I feel quite comfortable with my ability
"the back room" is not necessary, that is what copyright law is for, to =
protect the designs I have made.

Lori J Mass

"I was just about to donate" and that is just what many artists, =
including myself extensively, do to help others along. The KEY word is =
donate, WE make the choice. That is why most books have in the =
introduction [no part of this publication may be reproduced.......in any =
form..... without prior permission of the copyright owners, with the =
exception .....for personal use only].

"if I don't want it duplicated, I won't make it available...but, if I =
can  throw a little help & enjoyment out there for the novice artists, =
then so be it!"     available is a relative term, by law it is not =
available unless the copyright owner says it is for public domain. =
Allowing the public to see your work does not make it available.=20
------------
Mike Savad
"how does someone go about copy righting work? and how much does it =
cost?"

Well Mike thinks have gotten much easier for the creative! The act of =
creating an original work of art is enough, by LAW, to give the creator =
copyright, the circled "c", the date, and the copyright owner's name is =
merely there to remind and warn those who seek to profit from another's =
work. It costs you nothing, but you can get forms from the copyright =
offices to formalize the copyright, or get a lawyer to do what is easily =
done by yourself (difference is you have to pay him). My lawyer said =
another simple way to give evidence of date of creation is to document =
your work, mail this document to yourself registered mail, and don't =
open it (your lawyer will do that in court if the need arises).

So let's get a few things straight, copyright free archives. I have no =
problem with, but there should be a release in the archives stating that =
these designs are available for personal use only (i.e. you cannot make =
profit) OR are copyright free and public domain (i.e. you can make =
profit). This will make it clear both to the giver and the receiver =
where they stand and no one will end up surprised one day. So I do not =
intend to put a damper on this, just play by the rules.

Glenn Spicer
The Studio Metamorphoses=20

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From owner-glass Mon Nov  3 17:51:55 1997
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X-Path: seaside.net!gspicer
From: "Glenn Spicer" <gspicer@seaside.net>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="---- =_NextPart_000_01BCE87D.FD721740"
Subject: RE: estimating a price
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 16:08:17 -0800
Message-ID: <1997Nov3.8817.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


------ =_NextPart_000_01BCE87D.FD721740
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable


-----Original Message-----
From:	M. Savad [SMTP:morn@nac.net]
Sent:	Monday, November 03, 1997 2:31 PM
To:	glass@bungi.com
Subject:	estimating a price

today a co-worker came up to me and asked if they could build a project
for them. although i heard all sorts of methods of pricing, estimating
something before it's built is a bit more tricky. i gave her a price of
$150.00. this is what the panel would be:

18" in diameter, it's a circle (the world). there are letters coming out
of it, like superman letters. it sticks out above the circle.=20

the colors would probably be all spectrum. the colors i had in mind
would be blue water glass, aqua water glass, clear semi-ant, and white
boroque.

it's a free hanging panel, it's going in the window of a store. i figure
i may put some kind of stiff came around it, though that's still up in
the air.

based on this, what kind of price wuod you give? and does my price sound
too high or fair?=20

generally all my stuff is pretty complex, and i really don't sell a ton
of stuff. i just hate being confronted for an estimate, and just looking
dumb...staring at the picture.

oh btw the pattern is pretty much done, i would need to add break lines.
and a few of the cuts would need a bandsaw for a neater appearence.

---Mike Savad

--=20
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
 New Pages Added: 11 New Tip Pages, Including: Random Tips, Box Making
Tips, How to Fix Scratched Glass, Getting Pictures, How to Maintain
Tools and How Long They Last, Pictures of my Lamp Lit, 1 New Project,
Shopping Lists, and See My Bio with a picture of ME.
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

Check my formula Mike, you know the area, the # of pieces, the type of =
Glass, I'm now charging $5 more in each sq.ft. category and $.50 more =
/pc in each category and if it fits between categories use the famous =
fudge factor
Glenn Spicer
Studio Metamorphoses

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From owner-glass Mon Nov  3 18:00:58 1997
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	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #8 built 1997-Jun-19)
X-Path: water.waterw.com!artglass
From: artglass@water.waterw.com (pj friend)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Reusche & Co
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 20:58:57 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <199711040158.UAA00600@water.waterw.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Rojean wrote,

>Reusche & Co.
>
>Newark, NJ 07105 USA 
>973-589-2040 
>FAX: 973-589-0478
>
>Ceramic Colors For Glass & Porcelain; Brushes.
>
>Above is copied from the Thomas Register on line, it appears this may not
be the one you are searching for.  At any rate, there is no E-mail address
given.
>
Well Reusche of newark moved to Colorado in  September of 1996.

Reusche & Co of TWS Inc.
1299 H Street
Greeley Colorado 80631
970.346.8577/phone
970.346.8575/fax


pj

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From owner-glass Mon Nov  3 18:36:40 1997
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X-Path: infinet.com!glasscat
From: Carolyn Noel <glasscat@infinet.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Framing questions
Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 21:29:57 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov3.162957.0>
References: <<1997Nov3.7582.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Carolyn's Creations
Precedence: bulk

I've used the Pop-Lock frames and haven't had a problem, although you do
need to glue the plugs in securely. One definite advantage is, it's
quick and easy. 
Carolyn
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From owner-glass Mon Nov  3 18:43:40 1997
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From: Carolyn Noel <glasscat@infinet.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Previous question
Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 21:37:11 -0500
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Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Carolyn's Creations
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Regarding changing patina on a piece, I've had really good luck with 000
or 0000 steel wool. Just rub it over the patinaed solder and re-patina.
Carolyn
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From owner-glass Mon Nov  3 19:08:12 1997
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X-Path: concentric.net!PMGoff
From: PMGoff <PMGoff@concentric.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: wolf pattern
Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 21:09:16 -0600
Message-ID: <1997Nov3.15916.0>
References: <<345E554F.FBACB62@ob1.kenobe.edu.on.ca>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

WILD ANIMALS Stained Glass Pattern Book by Connie Eaton (Dover, 1996;
$5.95) has a full-bodied pattern of a wolf howling.  Enlarge the pattern
after a few drawing improvements, and it would make a really nice panel.


=====================
Ken Ames wrote:
> 
> We are trying to find a pattern of a wolf face or full body.  Have not
> sent to this group before.  Hope I am doing things correctly.  Carol
> 
> ----
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From owner-glass Mon Nov  3 19:38:12 1997
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X-Path: computer.net!alewis
From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@computer.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Copyright of one's work
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@computer.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 22:44:36 +0000
Message-ID: <199711040337.WAA08151@ns.computer.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

This has been hashed and rehashed and, I guess, always will be. You 
can get the straight poop directly from the U.S. Copyright Office at 
http://lcweb.loc.gov/copyright/  Everything from beginning basics to 
more advanced questions is right at your fingertips, including:

Copyright Secured Automatically Upon Creation 

The way in which copyright protection is secured under the present law
is frequently misunderstood. No publication or registration or other
action in the Copyright Office is required to secure copyright.

Albert

International Guild of Glass Artists, Inc.
A 501(c)(6) not-for-profit association
Tonetta Lake Road, Brewster NY 10509
(914) 278-2152  Fax: (914) 278-2481
_____________________________________________
Home page http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/
Members' work http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/links.htm
Sources Guide http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/guide.htm
Guild Library  http://www.aiap.com/amazon/



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From owner-glass Mon Nov  3 21:16:57 1997
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X-Path: home.com!leestat7
From: leestat7 <leestat7@home.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Moved-Survived ?????
Date: Tue, 04 Nov 1997 00:14:07 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov3.19147.0>
References: <<1997Oct21.55430.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: @Home Network
Precedence: bulk

Hi All,

I have survived my move, (me, my studio, my birds) now to get unpacked. 
My mail must have bounced, and dropped me from the bungi.com list, while
my server was being re-routed.  All I'm getting is ArtMetal list.  So if
I missed anything interesting let me know.  I may have missed personal
mail also-so if a message to me bounced-I'm back on line.  Same e-mail
address, so send again.

leestat7@home.com

I just resubscribed using the 'auto-mailer' and that will get the list
mail going again. 

Best to all, and hope not to move again for a long, long time.  My
bruises have bruises.

Lee Boe
Rain-Boe's Creations
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From owner-glass Mon Nov  3 23:57:49 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!MsChatee
From: MsChatee@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Paterns or picture of wolf
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 02:56:54 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov3.215654.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I too have been unable to find a wolf pattern.  I'd like to know if anyone
finds one as well.
THanks
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From owner-glass Tue Nov  4 02:30:52 1997
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From: "studio@stainedglass.co.uk" <studio@stainedglass.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Help asked in identifying sg windows found in a train
Date: Tue, 04 Nov 1997 10:28:34 +0000
Message-ID: <1997Nov4.102834.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

At 20:43 03/11/97 -0800, "Mic and Jeni Novak" <micn@nwlink.com> wrote to us
in the UK:
>	We need to identify some stained glass windows we salvaged >from a old
train . The nearest we can figure, the car was made around >1840's. We have
found out that the car was remodeled in 1904 .
> 	There were four car's made. One was made for the President of >northern
pacific railroad. We are not certain of where the other >three are .
>	The car we are working on was decommissioned in 1928.
>	We need some help to identify the window's maker?
>
>					Thank you
>
>					Dave, Jeni & Mic   
Is there a Bungian out there who can help them?
Elizabeth
Bournemouth Stained Glass
http://www.stainedglass.co.uk

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From owner-glass Tue Nov  4 03:32:55 1997
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X-Path: computer.net!alewis
From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@computer.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Help asked in identifying sg windows found in a train
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@computer.net>
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 06:40:12 +0000
Message-ID: <199711041132.GAA15110@ns.computer.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

They should send a photo of the window to Julie Sloan, McKernan 
Satterlee Associates:

Julie Sloan
McKernan Satterlee Associates, Inc.
PO Box 480
North Adams MA 01247 - 0480

..........................Phone: ( 413 ) 664 - 2085
..........................Fax: (413) 664-6570
..........................Email: jsloan@vgernet.net
..........................Website: http://www.jlsloan.com/


She will probably be able to identify the maker.


> At 20:43 03/11/97 -0800, "Mic and Jeni Novak" <micn@nwlink.com> wrote to us
> in the UK:
> >	We need to identify some stained glass windows we salvaged >from a old
> train . The nearest we can figure, the car was made around >1840's. We have
> found out that the car was remodeled in 1904 .
> > 	There were four car's made. One was made for the President of >northern
> pacific railroad. We are not certain of where the other >three are .
> >	The car we are working on was decommissioned in 1928.
> >	We need some help to identify the window's maker?
> >
> >					Thank you
> >
> >					Dave, Jeni & Mic   
> Is there a Bungian out there who can help them?
> Elizabeth
> Bournemouth Stained Glass
> http://www.stainedglass.co.uk
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> 
> 

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From owner-glass Tue Nov  4 05:01:23 1997
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X-Path: juliet.stfx.ca!marchiba
From: Mary Archibald <marchiba@juliet.stfx.ca>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="------------4D8D6938CFF5DA6B421575D1"
Subject: Re: Crrrrraaaaaccccckkkk!!!
Date: Tue, 04 Nov 1997 08:51:42 -0400
Message-ID: <345F1A5E.3F0F4012@stfx.ca>
References: <<199710300155.TAA14093@mailhost.cyberramp.net>>
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Organization: St. Francis Xavier University
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--------------4D8D6938CFF5DA6B421575D1
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Yes, I like that one, am I correct in assuming
that the keyword is "useless" M.

byronw@cyberramp.net wrote:

> > From:          "bunzie" <bunzie@flash.net>
> > To:            <glass@bungi.com>
> > Subject:       Crrrrraaaaaccccckkkk!!!
> > Date:          Wed, 29 Oct 1997 07:10:01 -0500
>
> > Reply-to:      glass@bungi.com
>
> > Well I did it...
> >
> >   I just finished a beautiful butterfly panel
> when somehow during the
> > waxing I got a big ole running crack all the
> way across a good sized piece.
> > (about 5 inches across).
> >
> > This is the first time this has happened, so
> before I go hacking away at
> > the thing, could anyone give me some advice on
> how to repair it?  It's done
> > with foil, not lead.
> >
> > Thanks!  ~Lori
> > ----
>
>  While my advice may not be kosher with  some of
> the purists this is
> what I've done on a rather large foil  panel for
> my own home....  If
> I were selling the panel I would and have gone
> to the trouble of
> desoldering the piece and installing a new
> one...
>
> Anyway for my own panel what I did was ti stick
> a thin strip of foil
> on top of the crack on both sides and ran a bead
> of solder over
> them.. For a little more support you could also
> add a piece of thin
> wire on each side also...Like I said I would
> even try that on a sold
> piece but for my own it took a whole 5 minutes
> to repair the crack..
> The panel is in a  hardwood frame now (it
> cracked when I was cleaning
> the flux off it) and no one but me is the
> wiser...
>
> Byron...
>
> Wells Glassworks
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to:
> glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to:
> glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass



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From owner-glass Tue Nov  4 05:03:13 1997
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From: Mary Archibald <marchiba@juliet.stfx.ca>
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Re: Crrrrraaaaaccccckkkk!!!
Date: Tue, 04 Nov 1997 08:53:28 -0400
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I apologise for the previous post.  I mistakenly
sent it to the list.  Now know how easy it is to
do that.  Sorry.  Mary


byronw@cyberramp.net wrote:

> > From:          "bunzie" <bunzie@flash.net>
> > To:            <glass@bungi.com>
> > Subject:       Crrrrraaaaaccccckkkk!!!
> > Date:          Wed, 29 Oct 1997 07:10:01 -0500
>
> > Reply-to:      glass@bungi.com
>
> > Well I did it...
> >
> >   I just finished a beautiful butterfly panel
> when somehow during the
> > waxing I got a big ole running crack all the
> way across a good sized piece.
> > (about 5 inches across).
> >
> > This is the first time this has happened, so
> before I go hacking away at
> > the thing, could anyone give me some advice on
> how to repair it?  It's done
> > with foil, not lead.
> >
> > Thanks!  ~Lori
> > ----
>
>  While my advice may not be kosher with  some of
> the purists this is
> what I've done on a rather large foil  panel for
> my own home....  If
> I were selling the panel I would and have gone
> to the trouble of
> desoldering the piece and installing a new
> one...
>
> Anyway for my own panel what I did was ti stick
> a thin strip of foil
> on top of the crack on both sides and ran a bead
> of solder over
> them.. For a little more support you could also
> add a piece of thin
> wire on each side also...Like I said I would
> even try that on a sold
> piece but for my own it took a whole 5 minutes
> to repair the crack..
> The panel is in a  hardwood frame now (it
> cracked when I was cleaning
> the flux off it) and no one but me is the
> wiser...
>
> Byron...
>
> Wells Glassworks
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to:
> glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to:
> glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass



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From owner-glass Tue Nov  4 05:29:45 1997
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	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #8 built 1997-Jun-19)
X-Path: memach.com!lcbell
From: Linda Campbell <lcbell@memach.com>
To: "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Hello, anyone there?
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 08:29:55 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov4.32955.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Sorry for the empty post but I have not received any bungi mail since =
All Hallow's Eve.=20

Is every one working too hard to speak or am I off the list?

I worked on a lighthouse kaleidoscope last night. I'm trying to use a =
marble in the lamp area as the viewing object but by the time I put the =
roof on, it's dark in there. It may work if the viewer makes sure that =
light comes in from the side, rather than aiming the end at a light =
source.

The kaleidoscope is eigth-sided just like the Montauk Point lighthouse =
and I want to put a walkway all the way around close to the top. Any =
suggestions?=20

- glass (too heavy and bulky looking I think).=20
- wire (too many pieces to come loose - brackets and handrails and such)
- Maybe flat copper sheet cut to shape and tinned?

I'm out of ideas. Why oh why do I start projects I have no idea how they =
are going to finish?

Linda Campbell
=20

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From owner-glass Tue Nov  4 05:56:47 1997
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X-Path: worldnet.att.net!summit-stained-glass
From: mike peck <summit-stained-glass@worldnet.att.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: estimating a price
Date: Tue, 04 Nov 1997 07:58:24 -0600
Message-ID: <1997Nov4.15824.0>
References: <<1997Nov3.123048.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

M. Savad wrote:
> 
> today a co-worker came up to me and asked if they could build a project
> for them. although i heard all sorts of methods of pricing, estimating
> something before it's built is a bit more tricky. i gave her a price of
> $150.00. this is what the panel would be:

> 
> based on this, what kind of price wuod you give? and does my price sound
> too high or fair?
> 


Mike,

There have been a lot of comments on this already, as you know, so
rehashing the "per sq ft" method vs "what the market will bear" doesn't
make much sense.  So, how about this..... What did your customer do when
you told them $150?  Did they jump back and look at you like you were
crazy, or did they say "OK" without batting an eye?  If you got either
one of these reactions, you probably need to adjust your method for
preparing estimates accordingly.  If they simply winced, then asked if
the pattern could be simplified, or tried to negotiate, then you're
probably where you ought to be.

For an 18" diameter circle (with limited knowledge on the pattern) I
would give them a range of $150-$300, then start showing them where the
costs are coming from in the pattern, ie, intricut cuts, bevels, jewels,
etc.  If it's truly a labor intensive pattern (or has expensive glass,
etc), then hold your price toward the upper end.  If it's and easy
pattern using hobby glass, then cut them a better deal.

As far as pricing is concerned, it's mostly a matter of how hungary I
am.  If I have a good backlog, I price things kinda high and I figure if
I win at least half the bids that I put out there, then I'm doing OK. 
But, if it's been kinda slow, then I need to drop my prices a bit to
stay busy.

Sorry to be elusive here, Mike, but pricing isn't easy for anyone.  It
takes experience, and if you feel that you have bid something low, then
eat your pride, get the damn thing done and move on quickly as you can.

Hope this helps,

Mike Peck
Summit Stained Glass
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From owner-glass Tue Nov  4 06:16:20 1997
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From: Terry Bottrell <tbottrell@rrcc.mb.ca>
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Date: Tue, 04 Nov 1997 08:13:25 -0600
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Please remove me from your mailing list.  Thanks.

Terry Bottrell

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From owner-glass Tue Nov  4 06:54:59 1997
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X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Moved-Survived ?????
Date: Tue, 04 Nov 1997 09:53:14 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov4.45314.0>
References: <<1997Nov3.19147.0>>
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leestat7 wrote:
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> I have survived my move, (me, my studio, my birds) now to get unpacked.
> My mail must have bounced, and dropped me from the bungi.com list, while
> my server was being re-routed.  All I'm getting is ArtMetal list.  So if
> I missed anything interesting let me know.  I may have missed personal
> mail also-so if a message to me bounced-I'm back on line.  Same e-mail
> address, so send again.
> 
> leestat7@home.com
> 
> I just resubscribed using the 'auto-mailer' and that will get the list
> mail going again.
> 
> Best to all, and hope not to move again for a long, long time.  My
> bruises have bruises.
> 
> Lee Boe
> Rain-Boe's Creations
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


that was probably the cause for a those triple messages alot of people
were getting. i hav'nt recieved any in awhile so i guess that was it.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
 New Pages Added: 11 New Tip Pages, Including: Random Tips, Box Making
Tips, How to Fix Scratched Glass, Getting Pictures, How to Maintain
Tools and How Long They Last, Pictures of my Lamp Lit, 1 New Project,
Shopping Lists, and See My Bio with a picture of ME.
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From owner-glass Tue Nov  4 07:03:42 1997
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: estimating a price
Date: Tue, 04 Nov 1997 10:02:09 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov4.529.0>
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mike peck wrote:
> 
> M. Savad wrote:
> >
> > today a co-worker came up to me and asked if they could build a project
> > for them. although i heard all sorts of methods of pricing, estimating
> > something before it's built is a bit more tricky. i gave her a price of
> > $150.00. this is what the panel would be:
> 
> >
> > based on this, what kind of price wuod you give? and does my price sound
> > too high or fair?
> >
> 
> Mike,
> 
> There have been a lot of comments on this already, as you know, so
> rehashing the "per sq ft" method vs "what the market will bear" doesn't
> make much sense.  So, how about this..... What did your customer do when
> you told them $150?  Did they jump back and look at you like you were
> crazy, or did they say "OK" without batting an eye?  If you got either
> one of these reactions, you probably need to adjust your method for
> preparing estimates accordingly.  If they simply winced, then asked if
> the pattern could be simplified, or tried to negotiate, then you're
> probably where you ought to be.
> 
> For an 18" diameter circle (with limited knowledge on the pattern) I
> would give them a range of $150-$300, then start showing them where the
> costs are coming from in the pattern, ie, intricut cuts, bevels, jewels,
> etc.  If it's truly a labor intensive pattern (or has expensive glass,
> etc), then hold your price toward the upper end.  If it's and easy
> pattern using hobby glass, then cut them a better deal.
> 
> As far as pricing is concerned, it's mostly a matter of how hungary I
> am.  If I have a good backlog, I price things kinda high and I figure if
> I win at least half the bids that I put out there, then I'm doing OK.
> But, if it's been kinda slow, then I need to drop my prices a bit to
> stay busy.
> 
> Sorry to be elusive here, Mike, but pricing isn't easy for anyone.  It
> takes experience, and if you feel that you have bid something low, then
> eat your pride, get the damn thing done and move on quickly as you can.
> 
> Hope this helps,
> 
> Mike Peck
> Summit Stained Glass
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

i know pricing is a pain, but i don't do it on the fly much.

she does stained glass herself. she says for over 20 years, but on and
off. she figured i could get it done alot faster than she could, and
then panel is going in her sisters store front window. she did'nt seem
to jump at the price but accepted it. my guess is that she is'nt the one
paying for it. and since i work for a company that is constantly buying
$90 pens, and thousands of dollars worth of crystal, she may be able to
absorb the price more quickly. 

my pricing method was about $4 per piece, and the rounding it off. if
you can picture the panel, it looks like the US view of the world. with
the numbers 911 zooming out of it (it's a recycled materials store).
though since the countries are quite lumpy they would need the bandsaw
treatment. originally i was going to charge $120. but as i pulled out
the tape measure, that price did'nt seem relevant...

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
 New Pages Added: 11 New Tip Pages, Including: Random Tips, Box Making
Tips, How to Fix Scratched Glass, Getting Pictures, How to Maintain
Tools and How Long They Last, Pictures of my Lamp Lit, 1 New Project,
Shopping Lists, and See My Bio with a picture of ME.
----
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From owner-glass Tue Nov  4 07:20:38 1997
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X-Path: mfi.com!shaly
From: "Suzanne Haley"<shaly@mfi.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Patterns or picture of wolf        (head/shoulder view)
Date: Tue, 04 Nov 97 07:19:57 -0800
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Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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     Carol, 
     Contact Sherri Pierce, Pzaz Glass Studios, Petaluma, CA  (Phone: 707 
     763-6220). e-mail address: sherrip@iscweb.com
     Also has a web page:  http://www.artglassworld.com/studio/pzaz/
     Mary Ellen is her assistant.  Sherri has a pattern book available - 
     Expressions in Glass.  Recently has been doing quite a few designs re 
     endangered species.  I was in her shop last month when she had just 
     finished a stunning wolf (shoulder/head view). Eyes were amazing.  
     At that time she was going to send the pattern, picture of finished 
     work, etc. into Stain Glass Quarterly.  Give her a call, great artist, 
     great shop!  Suzanne Haley
     
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Paterns or picture of wolf
Author:  <glass@bungi.com> at Internet 
Date:    11/3/97 5:03 PM
     
     
Hi :     From another lurker!
A little nervous about sending this request, as I am am quite computer 
illiterate.  Would anyone know where I could find a wolf pattern that 
could be done in copper foil?
Thanks in advance.      Carol
     
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From owner-glass Tue Nov  4 07:31:35 1997
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X-Path: worldnet.att.net!summit-stained-glass
From: mike peck <summit-stained-glass@worldnet.att.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="------------300C2D2127F"
Subject: Website for Summit Stained Glass!
Date: Tue, 04 Nov 1997 09:33:11 -0600
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

--------------300C2D2127F
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Hi All,

I am most pleased to announce that after 2 years of procrastination,
combined with about 2 months of late night internet work, MY WEBSITE IS
UP! 

There are many graphics that take some time to download, as it seems
every stained glass related website is prone to, but if you have some
time, please stop by at:

			http://www.summitstudio.com/

I'd be happy to have your comments (even Albert's "critical review"
would be most welcome), and of course I'm anxious to link with other
stained glass related sites.

Thanks for visiting,

Mike Peck
Summit Stained Glass

--------------300C2D2127F
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; name="www.summitstudio.com"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline; filename="www.summitstudio.com"


                                Welcome
                                   To

                 [Image]

            [Image]

                     Full Line Stained Glass Service

                 Where Quality and Serivce always excel

            [Image]

                            657 SW 2nd Street
                      Lee's Summit, Missouri  64063

            [Image]

            This website describes the products and services
                             available from

                          Summit Stained Glass

           Also, presented is a company profile or history, a
      mini-portfolio and a Glass Link feature to take you to more
      sites.  This website is maintained by us, and all typos and
       missing links are a result of our zeal to get something on
      the internet, while trying to refine things on the fly.  Our
       site is still very much under construction, but it pretty
      much says everything we wanted to say.  We will continue to
     post new work as it is completed, so, please visit us often.
     Also, much of the content on the subsequent pages is graphics
     so the download time may be several minutes,  If you have the
     time, please stick around, otherwise, we'd be pleased to have
                       you back at a later time.

      If you like our website, please tell us, if you don't, well,
                       please tell us that, too!

            [Image]

     This half-round window, done in the nouveau style has
     Uroboros 50-29 Pink/White Ripple in the border, Spectrum 307
     Feather White in the primary field, Spectrum 523.2W Sea Green
     Waterglass for the whips and the jewels are 40mm Gold Pink
     cast roses.  The bevel cluster is from the Auburn Bevel
     Series, CK17.  The pattern was modified from Carolyn Kyle's
     Art Nouveau by adding the bevel cluster.

     [Image]                       Thanks for stopping by, we hope
                                         you enjoy the visit!

                 summit-stained-glass@worldnet.att.net.

      Company Profile  |  Services  |  Portfolio  |  Glass Links
                               |  Frames

--------------300C2D2127F--

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From owner-glass Tue Nov  4 07:43:22 1997
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X-Path: az.stratus.com!charlie
From: Charles Spitzer <charlie@az.stratus.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: Re: Hello, anyone there?
Date: Tue,  4 Nov 97 08:42:05 -0700
Message-ID: <m0xSl7I-000LiCC@why.az.stratus.com>
References: <<1997Nov4.32955.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Customer Assistance Center, Stratus Computer, Inc.
Precedence: bulk

You wrote:
> The kaleidoscope is eigth-sided just like the Montauk Point lighthouse =
> and I want to put a walkway all the way around close to the top. Any =
> suggestions?=20
>
> - glass (too heavy and bulky looking I think).=20
> - wire (too many pieces to come loose - brackets and handrails and such)
> - Maybe flat copper sheet cut to shape and tinned?
>
> I'm out of ideas. Why oh why do I start projects I have no idea how they =
> are going to finish?

i made a 3d house, and for the fence used 1/4" mesh chicken wire. how you cut  
the wires led to some realistic fence patterns.

---
Charles Spitzer
charlie@az.stratus.com
Customer Assistance Center
Stratus Computer, Inc.
Phoenix, AZ
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From owner-glass Tue Nov  4 08:20:06 1997
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X-Path: juno.com!glass_artist
From: glass_artist@juno.com (Lori J Maas)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Copyright (long info post)
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 10:11:26 -0600
Message-ID: <1997Nov4.41126.0>
References: <<1997Nov3.81725.0>>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk




>how does someone go about copy righting work? and how much does it 
>cost?
>
>---Mike Savad

Mike...
What everyone has said thus far is pretty much the truth re: the fact
that you don't "have" to register your work with the copyright office for
a copyright to be in effect. Copyright is secured automatically when the
work is created/published. Even the little copyright symbol is optional
on works created after 3/1/89...it's simply used to inform others of your
intention ("Innocent Infringement" can be claimed by someone if you don't
mark your work, however). Lastly, for works created after 1-1-78 the
copyright lasts for 50 years after the death of it's author.

Now, for what the others didn't tell you...

Registration of your copyright with the U.S. copyright office isn't a
requirement, but there are BIG advantages to doing so. The biggest reason
is that before you can file an infringement suit against anyone, your
work MUST be registered. Otherwise you cannot take court action against
them. Another perk is the fact that if you win your case, the "infringer"
must pay the court costs. There a number of other perks to registering,
but this is the biggest IMO. Please, don't try the "poor-man's" copyright
by mailing it to yourself...my lawyer recently told me it's not worth it
for anything you want to protect and it won't always hold up in court.

For stained glass patterns or works the cost is $20.00 per piece. I
usually use the form VA. I send the form, money, and color photos or
slides of the finished piece. I've copyrighted patterns by sending copies
of sketches and a finished drawing. It's rather a simple procedure.
Here is the info required to register a copyright...I scanned it directly
from their booklet:

"A. To register a work, send the following three elements in the same
envelope or package to the Register of Copyrights, Copyright Office,
Library of Congress, Washington, D.C. 20559: (see "Incomplete
Submissions," below, for what happens if the elements are sent
separately). 

   1.A properly completed application form; 
   2.A non refundable filing fee of $20* for each application [*For the
fee structure for application Form SE/GROUP and
     Form G/DN, see the instructions for these forms]; 
   3.A nonreturnable deposit of the work being registered. The deposit
requirements vary in particular situations. The       general
requirements follow. Also note the information under "Special Deposit
Requirements" immediately       following this section. 

     If the work is unpublished, one complete copy or phonorecord. 
     If the work was first published in the United States on or after
January 1, 1978, two complete copies or      phonorecords of the best
edition. 
     If the work was first published in the United States before January
1, 1978, two complete copies or phonorecords        of the work as first
published. 
     If the work was first published outside the United States, one
complete copy or phonorecord of the work as first
     published. 

B. To register a renewal, send: 

   1.A properly completed RE application form; and 
   2.A non refundable filing fee of $20 for each work. 

NOTE: COMPLETE THE APPLICATION FORM USING BLACK INK PEN OR TYPEWRITER.
You may photocopy
blank application forms: however, photocopied forms submitted to the
Copyright Office must be clear, legible, on a good grade of 8-1/2 inch by
11 inch white paper suitable for automatic feeding through a photocopier.
The forms should be printed preferably in black ink, head-to-head (so
that when you turn the sheet over, the top of page 2 is directly behind
the top of page1). Forms not meeting these requirements will be returned.


Special Deposit Requirements 

Special deposit requirements exist for many types of work. In some
instances, only one copy is required for published works, in other
instances only identifying material is required, and in still other
instances, the deposit requirement may be unique. The following are
prominent examples of exceptions to the general deposit requirements: 

     If the work is a motion picture, the deposit requirement is one
complete copy of the unpublished or published          motion picture and
a separate written description of its contents, such as a continuity,
press book, or synopsis. 

     If the work is a literary, dramatic or musical work published only
on phonorecord, the deposit requirement is one
     complete copy of the phonorecord. 

     If the work is an unpublished or published computer program, the
deposit requirement is one visually perceptible       copy in source code
of the first and last 25 pages of the program. For a program of fewer
than 50 pages, the              deposit is a copy of the entire program.
(For more information on computer program registration, including        
  deposits for revised programs and provisions for trade secrets, request
Circular 61.) 

     If the work is in a CD-ROM format, the deposit requirement is one
complete copy of the material, that is, the      CD-ROM, the operating
software, and any manual(s) accompanying it. If the identical work is
also available in print      or hard copy form, send one complete copy of
the print version and one complete copy of the CD-ROM version. 

     For information about group registration of serials, request
Circular 62. 

In the case of works reproduced in three-dimensional copies, identifying
material such as photographs or drawings is ordinarily required. Other
examples of special deposit requirements (but by no means an exhaustive
list) include many works of the visual arts, such as greeting cards,
toys, fabric, oversized material (request Circular 40a); video games and
other machine-readable audiovisual works (request Circular 61 and
ML-387); automated databases (request Circular 65); and contributions to
collective works. 

If you are unsure of the deposit requirement for your work, write or call
the Copyright Office and describe the work you wish to register."

 I can email anyone a copy of form VA in a pdf format or you can obtain
them (along with other forms) from the Copyright office's website. They
will even mail you some forms.
Hope all this helps,
LJ
________________________________________________________________________________________
LJ Maas, Owner & Artist can be reached at:  artist@busprod.com

ART WITH ATTITUDE Stained Glass Design
<http://www.art-with-attitude.com/glass/artglass.html>
Handcrafted & unique stained glass gift items
----
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From owner-glass Tue Nov  4 10:06:07 1997
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X-Path: craftnetwork.com!petem
From: "Pete Mitchell" <petem@craftnetwork.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Paterns or picture of wolf
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 13:03:40 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov4.8340.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk



>I too have been unable to find a wolf pattern.  I'd like to know if anyone
>finds one as well.
>THanks


Three wolf patterns found on the pattern search at www.stainedglassbiz.com
are:

Southwest Serenade (wolf, cactus, moon) by Suzanne Cooper in the book Bevel
Boutique.
There's a baying Wolf in the book Radiance and Reflections,
and a southwest style wolf by Gloria Fohr in the book Southwest Expressions
as well.

Hope this helps.

Pete



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From owner-glass Tue Nov  4 12:41:58 1997
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Web pages...
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 19:12:28 +0000
Message-ID: <1997Nov4.191228.0>
References: <<1997Nov3.122349.0@?>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

In message <1997Nov3.122349.0@?>, "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net> writes
>
>
>how does someone go about copy righting work? and how much does it cost?
>
>---Mike Savad
>
Mike,
 There is no cost to copyright work.  All you must do is sign and date
your designs in a way that cannot be altered (eg. ink) and store them.
They then are the record for any claims of infringement of copyright.

  Of course, someone can use your basic design and make some
alterations, acknowledge the original idea is yours, and they are ok
(subject to legal opinion, of course!)
Steve
-- 
Steve Richard
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From owner-glass Tue Nov  4 13:19:59 1997
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X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: "INTERNET:glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: estimating a price
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 16:18:21 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov4.111821.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Mike:

I would have guestimated $250 - 290 for that job with the
Superman-type letters.  I arrived at that price by estimating
the square inches, then multiplying that by an artistic 'fudge
factor' which runs from .75 for low-cost glass & straight cuts,
up to about 1.5 for bandsaw work, original complex designs,
etc.  Just my $.02 worth.

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
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From owner-glass Tue Nov  4 13:20:03 1997
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From: "Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: "INTERNET:glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: wolf picture or pattern
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 16:18:26 -0500
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Message text written by Carol:
>We are trying to find a pattern of a wolf face or full body.  Have not
sent to this group before.  Hope I am doing things correctly.  Carol<

Carol:

I have a wolf portrait (head & shoulders, face foreward) pattern I
drew a few years ago.  I've done it in both brown timber wolf and
white/grey Arctic wolf type glass, with and without borders.

Send a private email for more info:
Ensembles@compuserve.com

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
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From owner-glass Tue Nov  4 13:42:06 1997
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Hi Mike-

Thank's for the reply to Glenn - I hadn't gotten
the Kokomo info together yet because the school
usually just rents it from Royalty STained Glass
here in town.  Spectrum's video is pretty good,
too, though not quite as entertaining.  Bullseye's
video is THE worst!  All IMNSHO!

Best regards,

Dani Greer
Greer Gallery & Studios
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From owner-glass Tue Nov  4 13:42:41 1997
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Subject: Moved-Survived ?????
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 16:39:48 -0500
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Hi Lee!

Welcome back!  I was starting to
worry about you.  We've been
pretty active for the last ten
days or so here on bungi.  Have
fun getting reorganized and
join the conversation soon!:-)

Best regards,

Dani Greer
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From owner-glass Tue Nov  4 13:43:16 1997
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Subject: Re: Reusche & Co
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 16:40:04 -0500
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Rojean,

Reusche moved from New Jersey to
Greeley, CO, oh, about a year or so
ago.  Much to our delight since we
are in Colorado and specialize in
glass painting!

Best regards,

Dani Greer
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From owner-glass Tue Nov  4 13:56:13 1997
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From: artglass@water.waterw.com (pj friend)
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Subject: Re: to pj and Paul on your Website and your work
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 16:54:05 -0500 (EST)
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>I just visited your web site and was impressed by your beautiful work. I
>recently attended a wedding at M'kor Shalom and i was just thunderstruck by
>the magnificent stained glass windows........the colors were breathtaking! I
>have never before seen such beautiful use of color and design!  Imagine
>finding out that it was done by one of our Bungi contributors.....just wish
>everyone here could see the windows! They are magnificent !!
>----
Thanks for the wonderful comments.  "The Source" located at Congregation
M'Kor Shalom was a sheer pleasure to design and create.  Paul and I have
been quite blessed with some of the commissions we have been asked to create.
Mkor was one of them.  At a time when the congregation itself was going
through some pretty heady stuff............"The Source" became a strenghth .  
The main window and each of the fourteen side panels all were fabricated
with Lambert glass. (My personal favorite).  We added the dichroic in the
main panel as to add the every changing color .  People actually change
seats in the sanctuary just so they can view the work from all angles.  It
is never the same.

We have yet to complete another eight windows in the main and the main entryway.
Those are things to come.

The above comment is the reason we do the things we do.  And create the work
we do.  And most of all live the life we do.  And we are definitely greatful.

my best,
pj

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From owner-glass Tue Nov  4 14:03:14 1997
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From: artglass@water.waterw.com (pj friend)
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Re: estimating a price
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 17:00:05 -0500 (EST)
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Christie wrote,
>Mike:
>
>I would have guestimated $250 - 290 for that job with the
>Superman-type letters.  I arrived at that price by estimating
>the square inches, then multiplying that by an artistic 'fudge
>factor' which runs from .75 for low-cost glass & straight cuts,
>up to about 1.5 for bandsaw work, original complex designs,
>etc.  Just my $.02 worth.
>
I was wondering about the artistic 'fudge
factor' which runs from .75 for low-cost glass ..............was that for real?

I was just wondering?

my best,
pj

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From owner-glass Tue Nov  4 14:06:17 1997
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From: artglass@water.waterw.com (pj friend)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: a site i found
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 17:03:22 -0500 (EST)
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Mike wrote,
>i'll probably be putting this one on my links list. it has quite a bit
>of stuff in it. i suggest to to the site map to navigate, it's a little
>hard to find anything otherwise..
>
>http://www.rainbow.co.nz/karal/Index.html
>
Thanks for that one MIke....the metaphysical information was enlightening.

my best,
pj

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From owner-glass Tue Nov  4 15:48:31 1997
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From: ANLGlass@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: estimating a price
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 18:47:00 -0500 (EST)
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In a message dated 97-11-04 08:57:26 EST, you write:

<< If it's and easy
 pattern using hobby glass, then cut them a better deal. >>

Nothin' I like better than a good pun!  LOL ...

- Marilyn
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From owner-glass Tue Nov  4 16:34:17 1997
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
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Date: Wed, 5 Nov 1997 01:31:10 +0000
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Hi Mike (Savad)
Thanks for sharing this interesting site with us. 
John in  NZ sounds quite a guy!
Like PJ I was intrigued by the esoterical elements.
Hope we might hear more from him in Bungi Group
Elisabeth 'n Toby in UK

i'll probably be putting this one on my links list. it has quite a bit
of stuff in it. i suggest to to the site map to navigate, it's a little
hard to find anything otherwise..

http://www.rainbow.co.nz/karal/Index.html
----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
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From owner-glass Tue Nov  4 16:34:27 1997
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
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Mike & Christie,
 Having seen Mike's WEB-page, knowing the quality of his work, 
knowing what I could expect from him if I asked HIM to do a 
commission for me (in the way he is as a guy & artist); I TOTALLY 
agree with you Christie. Mike, you are underselling yourself!!! My 
guestimate (translated into UK currency) was almost identical with 
Christie's! 
Elisabeth 'n Toby in UK

Christie wrote:
I would have guestimated $250 - 290 for that job with the
Superman-type letters.  I arrived at that price by estimating
the square inches, then multiplying that by an artistic 'fudge
factor' which runs from .75 for low-cost glass & straight cuts,
up to about 1.5 for bandsaw work, original complex designs,
etc.  Just my $.02 worth.

----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
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From owner-glass Tue Nov  4 16:35:06 1997
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
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Subject: Re: Website for Summit Stained Glass!
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Well, Mike (Peck),
I think I was visitor no. 90!
Well done! Nice site. Didn't take as long time to down load as I 
feared it might.
Like it!
Elisabeth 'n Toby in UK



I am most pleased to announce that after 2 years of procrastination,
combined with about 2 months of late night internet work, MY WEBSITE IS
UP! 

There are many graphics that take some time to download, as it seems
every stained glass related website is prone to, but if you have some
time, please stop by at:

			http://www.summitstudio.com/

I'd be happy to have your comments (even Albert's "critical review"
would be most welcome), and of course I'm anxious to link with other
stained glass related sites.

Thanks for visiting,

----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
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From owner-glass Tue Nov  4 16:37:11 1997
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Hey, Lee, Laylah,

Welcome Back.
Sure missed you!
Tell us about your new set-up, new studio and all the bruises on 
bruises!!
Elisabeth 'n Toby in UK
 (who will talk to you off-group very soon!)
----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
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From owner-glass Tue Nov  4 16:51:41 1997
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> Hi All,
> 
> I am most pleased to announce that after 2 years of procrastination,
> combined with about 2 months of late night internet work, MY WEBSITE IS
> UP! 
> 
> There are many graphics that take some time to download, as it seems
> every stained glass related website is prone to, but if you have some
> time, please stop by at:
> 
> 			http://www.summitstudio.com/
> 
> I'd be happy to have your comments (even Albert's "critical review"
> would be most welcome), and of course I'm anxious to link with other
> stained glass related sites.
> 
> Thanks for visiting,
> 
> Mike Peck
> Summit Stained Glass


 Looks great to me Mike!  I've been trying to find time to do one 
myself... Why arent there just a few more hours in the year??


Byron...

Wells Glassworks
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From owner-glass Tue Nov  4 17:41:16 1997
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From: LByrne21@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: a site i found
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 20:40:07 -0500 (EST)
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Mike:  Tried that URL and couldn't get thru to the sight.....Lavergne
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From owner-glass Tue Nov  4 17:48:31 1997
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From: Beveler4@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: estimating a price
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 20:47:47 -0500 (EST)
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Mike, I totally agree with Christie and Toby, that you under estimate your
self and the value of your work. I have visited your site and your work is
excellent from what I can see and IMHO you need to take a closer look at your
time invested and your artistic value, bottom line you need to charge more
for your work.Beveler4@aol.com
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From owner-glass Tue Nov  4 18:13:21 1997
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From: Beveler4@aol.com
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Subject: Re: estimating a price
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 21:12:17 -0500 (EST)
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Hi again Mike,I just wanted to tell you that I visited that site from New
Zealand that you posted and was very impressed, He has accomplished much,
someone that can truely be looked  to for inspiration, not only for his
glassworks but also for his positive outlook on life. Beveler4@aol.com
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From owner-glass Tue Nov  4 18:44:18 1997
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
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Subject: Re: a site i found
Date: Tue, 04 Nov 1997 21:42:33 -0500
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LByrne21@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Mike:  Tried that URL and couldn't get thru to the sight.....Lavergne
> ----
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well, here it is again http://www.rainbow.co.nz/karal/Index.html maybe
it got messed up somewhere along the line...

---Mike Savad

-- 
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http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
 New Pages Added: 11 New Tip Pages, Including: Random Tips, Box Making
Tips, How to Fix Scratched Glass, Getting Pictures, How to Maintain
Tools and How Long They Last, Pictures of my Lamp Lit, 1 New Project,
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From owner-glass Tue Nov  4 18:45:25 1997
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X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: estimating a price
Date: Tue, 04 Nov 1997 21:43:50 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov4.164350.0>
References: <<1997Nov4.161217.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Beveler4@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Hi again Mike,I just wanted to tell you that I visited that site from New
> Zealand that you posted and was very impressed, He has accomplished much,
> someone that can truely be looked  to for inspiration, not only for his
> glassworks but also for his positive outlook on life. Beveler4@aol.com
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


so far out of the things i saw there, my favorites are the tiger, and
the battle chess board. though i never heard of battle chess before (or
at least not a board configured like that one).

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
 New Pages Added: 11 New Tip Pages, Including: Random Tips, Box Making
Tips, How to Fix Scratched Glass, Getting Pictures, How to Maintain
Tools and How Long They Last, Pictures of my Lamp Lit, 1 New Project,
Shopping Lists, and See My Bio with a picture of ME.
----
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From owner-glass Tue Nov  4 18:52:14 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!Beveler4
From: Beveler4@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Website for Summit Stained Glass!
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 21:51:26 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov4.165126.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Mike, I thoroughly enjoyed your web site. I think that you do some fine work
and am looking forward to your future updates to the site. I know that you
probably are wondering who I am, I have been a lurker on bungi for quite some
time and an occasional commentor,and I tend to agree with many of your
comments .Beveler4@aol.com
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From owner-glass Tue Nov  4 19:05:41 1997
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X-Path: ComCAT.COM!suzy
From: suzanne albright <suzy@ComCAT.COM>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Question about temperature
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 97 22:07:37 -0400
Message-ID: <199711050304.WAA10538@uz.ComCAT.COM>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi All,

One of my students has renovated a greenhouse on her property for working 
in glass and will be having trouble keeping it heated. 

Her initial thoughts were to heat it only when she's using it (maybe two 
or three times a week), since it's an electric heater and quite expensive.

She is wondering if the constant cold, with occasional heat, will damage 
her stored glass, and/or the projects she is working on. We are in 
Pennsylvania and it could get quite cold.

Can anyone help? Thanks!
 

Suzanne Albright
suzydotcom
"A thing of beauty is a joy forever."



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From owner-glass Tue Nov  4 19:31:29 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!Bubstah
From: Bubstah@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: pattern paper
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 22:29:31 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov4.172931.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hello Bungi group.  I have a wonderful way of making patterns (cartoons) for
my stained glass pieces.  Last year I went for a routine x-ray and asked the
technicion if she could give me her scrap x-rays that were to be discarded.
 Surprisingly she said yes.  I've been using scrap x-ray sheets ever since.
 some have some visual x-rays but you just ignore it and using a sharp pen,
trace your cartoon and cut it out with a scissors or a pattern scissors.
 These pieces seem to last indefinitely.  The film is thicker than what you
would purchase in a supply store and best yet, it's FREE.  
Some of the film is transparent which poses no problems but, other sheets are
opaque and then I use saral tracing paper and cut the pattern out.  Either
way, I use all of the different shades of film I receive from the radiology
office.

Hope this has been of some help to you, as for me it is a perfect solution
for making my pattern pieces.

Bubstah@aol.com
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From owner-glass Tue Nov  4 20:20:19 1997
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X-Path: matnet.com!rogert
From: "Tyler, Roger D." <rogert@matnet.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: a site i found
Date: Tue, 04 Nov 1997 19:08:37 -0800
Message-ID: <1.5.4.32.19971105030837.00689030@primary.matnet.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Just tried the site (for the second time), no problem at all.  You must have encountered a temporary problem.  Do try again, it's well worth the effort. 

Thanks Mike, for letting us know about this one.
Rojean
rogert@matnet.com
Alaska
----------------

At 09:42 PM 11/4/97 -0500, you wrote:
>LByrne21@aol.com wrote:
>> 
>> Mike:  Tried that URL and couldn't get thru to the sight.....Lavergne
>> ----
>> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
>
>well, here it is again http://www.rainbow.co.nz/karal/Index.html maybe
>it got messed up somewhere along the line...
>
>---Mike Savad
>
>-- 
>Mike's Stained Glass
>http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
> New Pages Added: 11 New Tip Pages, Including: Random Tips, Box Making
>Tips, How to Fix Scratched Glass, Getting Pictures, How to Maintain
>Tools and How Long They Last, Pictures of my Lamp Lit, 1 New Project,
>Shopping Lists, and See My Bio with a picture of ME.
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
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From owner-glass Tue Nov  4 20:32:15 1997
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From: "Glenn Spicer" <gspicer@seaside.net>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Suzanne re:hot & cold
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 20:25:04 -0800
Message-ID: <1997Nov4.12254.0>
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Precedence: bulk

Suzanne
	Re the greenhouse. Ordinary glass is very resistant to heat and cold =
under most conditions, and stained glass is fairly resistant, but it =
does have the factor of  varying degrees of annealing and composition =
that could make it vulnerable to the occasional stress crack from the =
hot and cold. The cold could make it more brittle, difficult to cut and =
break. The temperature change from cold to hot could cause stress =
related breaks in a project (especially copper foil) due to the tight =
fit of the pieces and expansion. My advice, if she must use this place =
under these conditions, that she maintain a temp of just above freezing, =
preheat the area and supplies before using the area so that the supplies =
reach room temperature before she uses them. A tarp over the greenhouse =
during colder weather could help keep the temp a little higher in the =
greenhouse when it is not in use. Projects I would think would fare =
better if brought inside for storage. These suggestions may error on the =
cautious side but I have never tried working under these conditions and =
maybe someone else can give advice from actual experience.

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From owner-glass Tue Nov  4 21:02:08 1997
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X-Path: prodigy.com!YWAH36A
From: YWAH36A@prodigy.com ( BOB   DUCHESNEAU)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Question about temperature
Date: Tue,  4 Nov 1997 23:58:25, -0500
Message-ID: <199711050458.XAA12814@mime4.prodigy.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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Susanne wrote:
Hi All,

One of my students has renovated a greenhouse on her property for 
working 
in glass and will be having trouble keeping it heated. 

Her initial thoughts were to heat it only when she's using it (maybe 
two 
or three times a week), since it's an electric heater and quite 
expensive.

She is wondering if the constant cold, with occasional heat, will 
damage 
her stored glass, and/or the projects she is working on. We are in 
Pennsylvania and it could get quite cold.
Can anyone help? Thanks!
 Suzanne Alright

Bob writes,
  The cold will have no effect on the composition of the glass as is 
demonstrated in very old glass that has been subjected to many 
seasons of temperature change. That's the good part.
  In my experience cold glass does not cut well. Glass even at 50'F 
seems to not reliably follow score lines. If I had my ideal all my 
glass would be heated through to about 100'F. Next, foil likes to be 
warm to stick well. Next, soldering cold glass is a good way to 
thermal shock it & breakage is far more likely. Next, I suspect that 
many common chemicals used in SG will not work well at lower 
temperatures. I like my patinas warm when using. Next, putty works 
into the leads better & sets up quicker when it is warm & the spirit 
can everaporate.
  Need I say more! A cold studio is not a suitable work place. If 
heated, it will be necessary to ensure that the above items have had 
time to come up to adequate temperature. In the case of glass this 
can take perhaps several hours.
  You can be sure that I look for reasons to run my kilns more in the 
cooler weather here in southern California and still run into 
problems cutting glass on some days. As a practical solution to the 
problem, a bit of forethought could have the necessary supplies for a 
days work stored overnight in a warm house and then transferred to 
the newly heated studio. 
Thankful for my geography, Bob

Overheard recently, *If the Pilgrims had landed in California, New 
England would still be a wilderness.* And me born & raised in Rhode 
Island.

____
Bob Duchesneau (stained glass, beveling, fusing & bending) Mountain 
Meadow Stained Glass, 26746 Mountain Meadow Road, Escondido, CA 92026 
Voice (760) 749-3966 FAX (760) 749-6427
----
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From owner-glass Wed Nov  5 02:18:13 1997
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Website for Summit Stained Glass!
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@mail.nildram.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 5 Nov 1997 11:16:38 +0000
Message-ID: <199711051017.KAA31931@pluto.nildram.co.uk>
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How modest of you Byron,
I am a "greedy-guts", I want at least another 24 hours to each DAY!  
;-)
Elisabeth 'n Toby in UK


 Looks great to me Mike!  I've been trying to find time to do one 
myself... Why arent there just a few more hours in the year??


----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
----
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From owner-glass Wed Nov  5 03:17:45 1997
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X-Path: p085.aone.net.au!allcrafts
From: Melanie Dunstan <allcrafts@p085.aone.net.au>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Window Caulking, cross-crafting
Date: Wed, 05 Nov 1997 11:52:24 +0800
Message-ID: <1997Nov5.195224.0>
References: <<1997Nov4.111821.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Allcrafts Goods & Services
Precedence: bulk

Gidday from Australia!

I'm on a candles list in USA (in fact, I create and maintain the FAQ for
the list) and recently a question has come up about 'window caulking'
which used to be utilised - in extremely small quantities - as a sealant
at the top of candle moulds, around the wick area, to prevent the hot
wax dripping out after pouring.

The enquirer said that this product doesn't seem to be available these
days (silicone is what she was offered instead - which won't do the
job). I'm just wondering - *is* window caulking still available?
Could/would it have to be made up in some way? All ideas and info much
appreciated!
-- TIA and Catcha
Melanie Dunstan, in Perth, Australia
Allcrafts for Unusual Crafts  http://www.ozemail.com.au/~allcraft
Psst! Ask about joining CraftsPages perpetual Craft Fair! Pass It On!


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From owner-glass Wed Nov  5 06:23:12 1997
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X-Path: worldnet.att.net!summit-stained-glass
From: mike peck <summit-stained-glass@worldnet.att.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Website for Summit Stained Glass!
Date: Wed, 05 Nov 1997 08:24:25 -0600
Message-ID: <1997Nov5.22425.0>
References: <<1997Nov4.165126.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Summit Stained Glass
Precedence: bulk

Beveler4@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Mike, I thoroughly enjoyed your web site. I think that you do some fine work
> and am looking forward to your future updates to the site. I know that you
> probably are wondering who I am, I have been a lurker on bungi for quite some
> time and an occasional commentor,and I tend to agree with many of your
> comments .Beveler4@aol.com
> ----

Thanks for your comments.  It's especially nice to see that something
was worthwhile enough to bring out comments from a "lurker".  Please
consider participating more often on the bungi line so we can get to
know you.

I first announced my website to the bungi group and, so far, I've gotten
almost 100 hits.  I've also received a lot of requests to link-up so I
think that is very positive. Just a few that don't like the black
background, but that's because they're artists, they want color!  Well,
I wanted color too, but I couldn't find anything (IMHO) that highlighted
the pictures better than the black, so ........ I WILL play with it some
more, but for now, the black stays! 

Thanks again for commmenting, and I hope to see some more of you on
bungi.

Mike
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From owner-glass Wed Nov  5 06:50:48 1997
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X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: "INTERNET:glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Re: estimating a price
Date: Wed, 5 Nov 1997 09:48:55 -0500
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Precedence: bulk

Message text written by pj:
>I was wondering about the artistic 'fudge
factor' which runs from .75 for low-cost glass ..............was that for=

real?
I was just wondering?<

For real?  Yes.  But not just for low-cost glass, as I might have implied=
=2E
It's more for pricing same size patterns which are simple versus
patterns which require quite a lot more time to do.

Sorry if I confused people with my 'artistic fudge factor'.

If you have a different pricing scheme, I would love to read about
it!
Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
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From owner-glass Wed Nov  5 06:51:05 1997
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From: "Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: "INTERNET:glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Question about temperature
Date: Wed, 5 Nov 1997 09:49:02 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov5.4492.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I wouldn't think the temperature changes would effect
glass storage.  However, try cutting cold Tiffany reproduction
glass, such as Youghiogeny, and you can end up with
lots of wasted $$$ on the floor.  Make sure she warms up
the glass prior to cutting.  When I was doing my glass work
in the basement (and I also live in Pennsylvania) I had a
portable oil-filled electric radiant heater.  I would lay the
glass atop or leaning up against it (size dependant) to warm
it up just prior to cutting.  This made all the difference in
the world during winter.

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
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From owner-glass Wed Nov  5 06:54:29 1997
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X-Path: inspace.net!herba
From: "Herb Adler" <herba@inspace.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Question about temperature
Date: Wed, 5 Nov 1997 09:51:50 -0500
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-----Original Message-----
From: suzanne albright <suzy@ComCAT.COM>
To: glass@bungi.com <glass@bungi.com>
Date: Tuesday, November 04, 1997 10:28 PM
Subject: Question about temperature


>Hi All,
>
>One of my students has renovated a greenhouse on her property for working
>in glass and will be having trouble keeping it heated.
>
>Her initial thoughts were to heat it only when she's using it (maybe two
>or three times a week), since it's an electric heater and quite expensive.


Bob's answer was succinct and to the point!

My engineering based reaction would be to carry the renovation farther by
insulating the walls and roof (especially the roof). This may entail some
structural changes but the cost would be partially offset by savings in
heating cost. Other than that, the choice looks like working only when the
weather permits!

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From owner-glass Wed Nov  5 07:01:23 1997
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X-Path: inspace.net!herba
From: "Herb Adler" <herba@inspace.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Website for Summit Stained Glass!
Date: Wed, 5 Nov 1997 09:59:22 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov5.45922.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


-----Original Message-----
From: mike peck <summit-stained-glass@worldnet.att.net>
To: glass@bungi.com <glass@bungi.com>
Date: Wednesday, November 05, 1997 9:32 AM
Subject: Re: Website for Summit Stained Glass!


>Beveler4@aol.com wrote:
>>
>> Mike, I thoroughly enjoyed your web site. I think that you do some fine
work
>> and am looking forward to your future updates to the site. I know that
you
>> probably are wondering who I am, I have been a lurker on bungi for quite
some
>> time and an occasional commentor,and I tend to agree with many of your
>> comments .Beveler4@aol.com
>> ----
>
>Thanks for your comments.  It's especially nice to see that something
>was worthwhile enough to bring out comments from a "lurker".  Please
>consider participating more often on the bungi line so we can get to
>know you.
>
This lurker also enjoyed your site. Very impressive! Since I am only a
hobbyist (but dedicated), it's good to see what those who make a living with
the art really do. IMHO, I would like to see some indication of the size of
the works pictured. Thanks for the site which I have bookmarked.
Herb Adler

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From owner-glass Wed Nov  5 08:02:01 1997
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: pattern paper
Date: Wed, 05 Nov 1997 10:59:07 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov5.5597.0>
References: <<1997Nov4.172931.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Bubstah@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Hello Bungi group.  I have a wonderful way of making patterns (cartoons) for
> my stained glass pieces.  Last year I went for a routine x-ray and asked the
> technicion if she could give me her scrap x-rays that were to be discarded.
>  Surprisingly she said yes.  I've been using scrap x-ray sheets ever since.
>  some have some visual x-rays but you just ignore it and using a sharp pen,
> trace your cartoon and cut it out with a scissors or a pattern scissors.
>  These pieces seem to last indefinitely.  The film is thicker than what you
> would purchase in a supply store and best yet, it's FREE.
> Some of the film is transparent which poses no problems but, other sheets are
> opaque and then I use saral tracing paper and cut the pattern out.  Either
> way, I use all of the different shades of film I receive from the radiology
> office.
> 
> Hope this has been of some help to you, as for me it is a perfect solution
> for making my pattern pieces.
> 
> Bubstah@aol.com
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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i've used 3-M transparency sheets and cover sheets. every so often they
send me some free samples, along with a card for more free samples, and
it's kind of endless... anyway, i've used the things (acetate
basically), for covering my paper pattern so it does'nt get wet. and
for  the odd pattern as well.

---Mike Savad

-- 
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http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
 New Pages Added: 11 New Tip Pages, Including: Random Tips, Box Making
Tips, How to Fix Scratched Glass, Getting Pictures, How to Maintain
Tools and How Long They Last, Pictures of my Lamp Lit, 1 New Project,
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From owner-glass Wed Nov  5 08:04:22 1997
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: a site i found - another one
Date: Wed, 05 Nov 1997 11:01:12 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov5.6112.0>
References: <<1.5.4.32.19971105030837.00689030@primary.matnet.com>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Tyler, Roger D. wrote:
> 
> Just tried the site (for the second time), no problem at all.  You must have encountered a temporary problem.  Do try again, it's well worth the effort.
> 
> Thanks Mike, for letting us know about this one.
> Rojean
> rogert@matnet.com
> Alaska
> ----------------
> 
> At 09:42 PM 11/4/97 -0500, you wrote:
> >LByrne21@aol.com wrote:
> >>
> >> Mike:  Tried that URL and couldn't get thru to the sight.....Lavergne
> >> ----
> >> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> >> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> >> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> >
> >
> >well, here it is again http://www.rainbow.co.nz/karal/Index.html maybe
> >it got messed up somewhere along the line...
> >
> >---Mike Savad
> >
> >--
> >Mike's Stained Glass
> >http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
> > New Pages Added: 11 New Tip Pages, Including: Random Tips, Box Making
> >Tips, How to Fix Scratched Glass, Getting Pictures, How to Maintain
> >Tools and How Long They Last, Pictures of my Lamp Lit, 1 New Project,
> >Shopping Lists, and See My Bio with a picture of ME.
> >----
> >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> >To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> >
> ----
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> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


i have another one.
http://www.frontpagenow.com/stainedglass/indexpag.htm he has nice work,
but the photo's are quite huge and need editing. but the work is pretty
good. BTW the site is really slow do to the giagantic graphics, all
interlased all above 120k a piece.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
 New Pages Added: 11 New Tip Pages, Including: Random Tips, Box Making
Tips, How to Fix Scratched Glass, Getting Pictures, How to Maintain
Tools and How Long They Last, Pictures of my Lamp Lit, 1 New Project,
Shopping Lists, and See My Bio with a picture of ME.
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From owner-glass Wed Nov  5 08:08:20 1997
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Window Caulking, cross-crafting
Date: Wed, 05 Nov 1997 11:05:32 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov5.6532.0>
References: <<1997Nov5.195224.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Melanie Dunstan wrote:
> 
> Gidday from Australia!
> 
> I'm on a candles list in USA (in fact, I create and maintain the FAQ for
> the list) and recently a question has come up about 'window caulking'
> which used to be utilised - in extremely small quantities - as a sealant
> at the top of candle moulds, around the wick area, to prevent the hot
> wax dripping out after pouring.
> 
> The enquirer said that this product doesn't seem to be available these
> days (silicone is what she was offered instead - which won't do the
> job). I'm just wondering - *is* window caulking still available?
> Could/would it have to be made up in some way? All ideas and info much
> appreciated!
> -- TIA and Catcha
> Melanie Dunstan, in Perth, Australia
> Allcrafts for Unusual Crafts  http://www.ozemail.com.au/~allcraft
> Psst! Ask about joining CraftsPages perpetual Craft Fair! Pass It On!
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


there's are quite a few caulks out there. i don't think it's called
window caulk. try looking for Phenoseal i think that's the right
spelling. phenoseal flexes with hot and cold and does'nt dry out as
fast. you could also try bathroom and tile caulk, roof caulk, driveway
caulk, and i think there's even a sidewalk caulk, along with the type
for pools, and fire protection (elasomeric caulk, it's red and stains
everything).

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
 New Pages Added: 11 New Tip Pages, Including: Random Tips, Box Making
Tips, How to Fix Scratched Glass, Getting Pictures, How to Maintain
Tools and How Long They Last, Pictures of my Lamp Lit, 1 New Project,
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From owner-glass Wed Nov  5 08:11:01 1997
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Website for Summit Stained Glass!
Date: Wed, 05 Nov 1997 11:09:19 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov5.6919.0>
References: <<1997Nov5.22425.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

mike peck wrote:
> 
> Beveler4@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > Mike, I thoroughly enjoyed your web site. I think that you do some fine work
> > and am looking forward to your future updates to the site. I know that you
> > probably are wondering who I am, I have been a lurker on bungi for quite some
> > time and an occasional commentor,and I tend to agree with many of your
> > comments .Beveler4@aol.com
> > ----
> 
> Thanks for your comments.  It's especially nice to see that something
> was worthwhile enough to bring out comments from a "lurker".  Please
> consider participating more often on the bungi line so we can get to
> know you.
> 
> I first announced my website to the bungi group and, so far, I've gotten
> almost 100 hits.  I've also received a lot of requests to link-up so I
> think that is very positive. Just a few that don't like the black
> background, but that's because they're artists, they want color!  Well,
> I wanted color too, but I couldn't find anything (IMHO) that highlighted
> the pictures better than the black, so ........ I WILL play with it some
> more, but for now, the black stays!
> 
> Thanks again for commmenting, and I hope to see some more of you on
> bungi.
> 
> Mike
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


the other thing about a black backround is this: in order for the words
to show up they have to be white. but if someone wants to print
something, at least in netscape anyway, the words stay white. which
means blank paper comes out...

besides i never liked very colorfull backgrounds anyway, on some you
could never read anything, because it tends to be distracting.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
 New Pages Added: 11 New Tip Pages, Including: Random Tips, Box Making
Tips, How to Fix Scratched Glass, Getting Pictures, How to Maintain
Tools and How Long They Last, Pictures of my Lamp Lit, 1 New Project,
Shopping Lists, and See My Bio with a picture of ME.
----
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From owner-glass Wed Nov  5 08:48:47 1997
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X-Path: iamerica.net!flowers
From: Mike Barr <flowers@iamerica.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: pattern paper
Date: Wed, 05 Nov 1997 10:42:23 -0600
Message-ID: <1997Nov5.44223.0>
References: <<1997Nov4.172931.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Flowers Etc
Precedence: bulk

Most art supply stores have mylar sheet used mostly for drafting. It 
works great for patterns you want to use again and again, I've never 
worn one out. 
	Mike Barr
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From owner-glass Wed Nov  5 09:28:14 1997
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From: Steve Matthies <SteveM@tillamook.k12.or.us>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: looking for info
Date: Wed, 05 Nov 1997 09:27:53 -0800
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I took a tiffany reproduction lamp in for repairs, something had fallen on it
during storage and about 1/3 of it has to be rebuilt. It is not dated, but it is
tagged as being done by "Sun Studios, Santa Barbara Ca." Evidently they
are no longer in business, at least in that area,as all my searches have
come up empty. Has anyone ever heard of them ? I have been able to
match most all the glass except a light green opal. It is rather thick, and
has a texture/pattern of corduroy. No one here that has seen it can
identify it, nor have I seen anything in a catalog or such that is even
close.
Any ideas / suggestions ?

Thanks :}

Steve Matthies
North Coast Glassworks
Tillamook, OR
Stevem@Tillamook.k12.or.us
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From owner-glass Wed Nov  5 11:12:08 1997
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X-Path: prodigy.com!YWAH36A
From: YWAH36A@prodigy.com ( BOB   DUCHESNEAU)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: looking for info
Date: Wed,  5 Nov 1997 14:07:17, -0500
Message-ID: <199711051907.OAA19432@mime4.prodigy.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Mike Matthies writes in part:
I have been able to match most all the glass except a light green 
opal. It is rather thick, and
has a texture/pattern of corduroy. No one here that has seen it can
identify it, nor have I seen anything in a catalog or such that is 
even
close.
Any ideas / suggestions ?

Thanks :}

Bob writes,
I am not sure how extensive your search has been. Have you sent a 
sample to a major glass retailer? Could it be Uroboros ripple 51-78, 
light green with spring green? 
  Once you have exhausted your search, you might try this. Match the 
color and opacity & then have a glass studio that does kiln work add 
the texture. A mold or plaster of paris impression is made of the old 
glass & your new glass slumped onto it to achieve the texture. Should 
cost a few bucks but may be necessary as a final resort.
Bob

____
Bob Duchesneau (stained glass, beveling, fusing & bending) Mountain 
Meadow Stained Glass, 26746 Mountain Meadow Road, Escondido, CA 92026 
Voice (760) 749-3966 FAX (760) 749-6427
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From owner-glass Wed Nov  5 11:52:58 1997
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From: "Glenn Spicer" <gspicer@seaside.net>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Green corduroy
Date: Wed, 5 Nov 1997 10:29:22 -0800
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Precedence: bulk

I have a light even green opal, older stuff, that I would call more a =
ripple? than corduroy (but not drapery), can you give a more precise =
description?
Glenn Spicer
The Studio Metamorphoses=20

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From owner-glass Wed Nov  5 13:17:15 1997
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From: "Don McDonald" <don@ccti.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: pattern paper
Summary: Authenticated sender is <don@eve.corp.ccti.net>
Date: Wed, 5 Nov 1997 15:13:20 +0000
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> i've used 3-M transparency sheets and cover sheets. every so often they
> send me some free samples, along with a card for more free samples, and
> it's kind of endless... anyway, i've used the things (acetate
> basically), for covering my paper pattern so it does'nt get wet. and
> for  the odd pattern as well.

I also use 3M transparency sheets, but I use the ones for overhead 
projectors that can be printed on with a bubble jet printer.  Coupled 
with a neat shareware program called DeltaCAD, I can design my 
pattern on my computer screen, print it any size that I want by 
adjusting the settings in the print dialog and then print 2 copies, 
one on plain paper for my cartoon, one on the transparency sheets for 
my pattern pieces.  This program is good at spanning multiple pages 
automatically and having the lines match up.  Sometimes you have to 
do a little assembly with tape or rubber cement when the edge of a 
sheet occurs in the middle of a piece. 

Don M. McDonald
Web Design
Corporate Communications Technology
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From owner-glass Wed Nov  5 15:52:33 1997
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Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="---- =_NextPart_000_01BCEA13.9D367000"
Subject: RE: Question about temperature
Date: Wed, 5 Nov 1997 17:52:10 -0600
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------ =_NextPart_000_01BCEA13.9D367000
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
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<snip>wondering if the constant cold, with occasional heat, will damage=20
her stored glass, and/or the projects she is working on. We are in=20
Pennsylvania and it could get quite cold.

Having just completed "winterizing" my studio ( which is a separate =
building with sky lights) I might share some of the things I was told to =
consider. Living in Minnesota the temps are probably more severe than in =
PA. but I was told to pick a heating system that would be efficent to =
run at a minimum of 52 degrees, warming to room temp when in use, as a =
rapid increase in temp. would cause considerable condensation problems. =
This concerned me as I wouldn't want my expensive tools being exposed to =
rust problems, to say nothing of the grinders,saws,etc being exposed to =
any kind of freezing being that they are used with water.

We have snow on the ground already but no below zero temps yet and so =
far so good....no condensation. I am also using it as a place to =
"winter" all of my geraniums and it is in itself a mini-greenhouse. Sure =
perks one up on a dreary, dark day.
Just my $.02 worth:
Sue Reitmann







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From owner-glass Wed Nov  5 16:09:37 1997
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X-Path: computer.net!alewis
From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@computer.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Website for Summit Stained Glass!
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@computer.net>
Date: Wed, 5 Nov 1997 19:15:29 +0000
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> I am most pleased to announce that after 2 years of procrastination,
> combined with about 2 months of late night internet work, MY WEBSITE IS
> UP! 
> I'd be happy to have your comments (even Albert's "critical review"
> would be most welcome), and of course I'm anxious to link with other
> stained glass related sites.

Albert critical? Moi? <s> No, I only say nice things any more and I 
check my facts thrice before inserting foot into mouth.

Albert


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From owner-glass Wed Nov  5 16:09:51 1997
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X-Path: computer.net!alewis
From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@computer.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Ulp! Big error on my part
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@computer.net>
Date: Wed, 5 Nov 1997 19:15:29 +0000
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Hi, all:

It's been pointed out to me that I was wrong, wrong, wrong both in 
attitude and fact on my recent glib trashing of Art Glass World, 
saying that its most recent supporter, Gemini Saw, was 
also owned by the owner of Art Glass World.

It wasn't true and Gemini's owner, Jessy Cogswell, is owed an 
apology, too. Apologies all round, in fact. Next time I'll check my 
facts before shooting off my mouth. <blush>

Albert

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From owner-glass Wed Nov  5 16:30:09 1997
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X-Path: computer.net!alewis
From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@computer.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Website for Summit Stained Glass!
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@computer.net>
Date: Wed, 5 Nov 1997 19:36:45 +0000
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> I wanted color too, but I couldn't find anything (IMHO) that highlighted
> the pictures better than the black, so ........ I WILL play with it some
> more, but for now, the black stays! 

Yes, that's what I decided, too, when I started putting together the 
Architectural Art Glass Light Show online. To my way of thinking, 
black is a non-color that doesn't conflict with the glass colors. 
Anyway, that's my opinion, which happens to match yours, Mike.

Albert

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From owner-glass Wed Nov  5 16:51:00 1997
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X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: looking for info
Date: Wed, 05 Nov 1997 19:49:01 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov5.14491.0>
References: <<s4603c36.022@tillamook.k12.or.us>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Steve Matthies wrote:
> 
> I took a tiffany reproduction lamp in for repairs, something had fallen on it
> during storage and about 1/3 of it has to be rebuilt. It is not dated, but it is
> tagged as being done by "Sun Studios, Santa Barbara Ca." Evidently they
> are no longer in business, at least in that area,as all my searches have
> come up empty. Has anyone ever heard of them ? I have been able to
> match most all the glass except a light green opal. It is rather thick, and
> has a texture/pattern of corduroy. No one here that has seen it can
> identify it, nor have I seen anything in a catalog or such that is even
> close.
> Any ideas / suggestions ?
> 
> Thanks :}
> 
> Steve Matthies
> North Coast Glassworks
> Tillamook, OR
> Stevem@Tillamook.k12.or.us
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


that glass sounds like fabricque, a tiffany glass that has a rippled
texture. it's like cloth scrunched up onto itself. the only place that i
can think of to replace it is Uroboros. they have hand rolled ripples,
that could match...

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
 New Pages Added: 11 New Tip Pages, Including: Random Tips, Box Making
Tips, How to Fix Scratched Glass, Getting Pictures, How to Maintain
Tools and How Long They Last, Pictures of my Lamp Lit, 1 New Project,
Shopping Lists, and See My Bio with a picture of ME.
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From owner-glass Wed Nov  5 17:02:28 1997
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Website for Summit Stained Glass!
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@mail.nildram.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 6 Nov 1997 01:59:46 +0000
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Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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Actually Herb,

You have a very valid point. I know many of us have just been 
visiting Mike Peck's site (Loooong overdue!!), but  only a small 
handful of us actually give the measurements to our glass (and I am 
the FIRST Sinner!!) 
One of my own largest panels (not yet on my WEB-site) measures 12 
ft x 8 ft in a triangle and ALL in one piece (for an indoor 
swimming-pool) . It took me about a year to complete and we 
needed a special truck and scaffolding to instal it. When I took 
photos of it, an internal beam obscured it so that I had to take 
the photo in 5 different sections, perched & roped up to  bits of 
scaffolding about 25 feet up. (Howzat for a young girl of 50!!??) 
Later the customer got the architect back in to remove the 
offending beam.....
However, it took me a year to complete, because of the amount of 
structural and "civil" engineering I had to consume & digest to 
make sure that this one-piece-monster was properly  
constructed, supported and mounted to stand the test of time.. 
Seeing it in a photo without the sizes,   gives no clue about the 
complexity of all these considerations.....
Even a small panel can often give the illusions of being quite 
substantial in size, when photographically reproduced, so that it 
does not truly reflect the intricacies and skills of small 
details.
Thanks for rubbing my nose in this quite important fact. Will now 
myself try and correct this on my own web-site.
Please do let us hear from you again, Herb.
Kind Regards
Elisabeth 'n Toby in UK


This lurker also 
enjoyed your site. Very impressive! Since I am only a hobbyist (but 
dedicated), it's good to see what those who make a living with the 
art really do. IMHO, I would like to see some indication of the size 
of the works pictured. Thanks for the site which I have bookmarked. 


----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
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From owner-glass Wed Nov  5 17:03:03 1997
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
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Subject: Re: Website for Summit Stained Glass!
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Date: Thu, 6 Nov 1997 01:59:46 +0000
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Dear Mike (Peck)

True to form.... ever gracious. You are a real delight.
I for one would feel privileged to "link" up with you.
Will put you on my own link page.
Elisabeth 'n Toby in UK


Thanks for your comments.  It's especially nice to see that something
was worthwhile enough to bring out comments from a "lurker".  Please
consider participating more often on the bungi line so we can get to
know you.


Thanks again for commmenting, and I hope to see some more of you on
bungi.


----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
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From owner-glass Wed Nov  5 17:07:53 1997
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From: John Keller <jeksac@earthlink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Question about temperature
Date: Wed, 05 Nov 1997 19:10:51 -0600
Message-ID: <1997Nov5.131051.0>
References: <<199711050458.XAA12814@mime4.prodigy.com>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Admin Kit Investigator
Precedence: bulk

> Susanne wrote:
> Hi All,
> 
> One of my students has renovated a greenhouse on her property for
> working
> in glass and will be having trouble keeping it heated.
> 
>   <snip>

Hi!
A possible suggestion for heating - instead of an electric heater,
perhaps she could check with someone having a greenhouse for plants in
her locality and find out how much a greenhouse heater would cost to buy
and operate, keeping it at a certain min. temp; also there are a number
of ways to run a layer or two (far better) of plastic over the glass
that keep it much warmer - one such, spring and latch is easy and
inexpensive.  She might want to try that even if she decides to stay
with the elec. heater - it will certainly help with the temp regardless
ofhow she adds it.  There are lots of orchid societies in PA - would
suggest she talk with someone near her who has a greenhouse for
suggestions for heating - they might have additional ideas - or she can
contact me.  Linn
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From owner-glass Wed Nov  5 17:29:03 1997
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X-Path: water.waterw.com!artglass
From: artglass@water.waterw.com (pj friend)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Website for Summit Stained Glass!
Date: Wed, 5 Nov 1997 19:55:52 -0500 (EST)
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>Albert wrote,

>
>Albert critical? Moi? <s> No, I only say nice things any more and I 
>check my facts thrice before inserting foot into mouth.
>
But Albert,

What fun is that???? And besides it always nice to know that someone does it
too!!!

my best,
pj

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From owner-glass Wed Nov  5 17:53:05 1997
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X-Path: ComCAT.COM!suzy
From: suzanne albright <suzy@ComCAT.COM>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: Question about temperature
Date: Wed, 5 Nov 97 20:54:58 -0400
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Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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To Christie, Herb, Bob, Sue, Glenn:

Thanks for all your responses about greenhouse temperature. I have 
forwarded them to my student and she appreciates the advice, 
tremendously. As do I.

I'll let you know in January  how it's going!!


----

Suzanne Albright
suzydotcom
"A thing of beauty is a joy forever."



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From owner-glass Wed Nov  5 18:36:11 1997
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X-Path: computer.net!alewis
From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@computer.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Website for Summit Stained Glass!
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@computer.net>
Date: Wed, 5 Nov 1997 21:43:16 +0000
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Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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> >check my facts thrice before inserting foot into mouth.
> >
> But Albert,
> 
> What fun is that???? 

Hmm. Wonder how I can type the "sound" of trying to talk with a size 
13 in my mouth.  I guess the classic: "Hmmmmfgf!"

Albert

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From owner-glass Wed Nov  5 22:08:45 1997
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X-Path: beachaccess.com!ncscoutr
From: "VALERIE PHELPS" <ncscoutr@beachaccess.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: re:most important aspect of glass
Date: Thu, 6 Nov 1997 00:53:42
Message-ID: <1997Nov6.85342.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Beach Access BBS
Precedence: bulk

>Hi everyone,
>
>Maybe those MOST critical of others SHOULD go first!  Then for some like
>myself who might want to ask a question about stepping stones, which all of
>the REAL stained glass artists found so amusing, can figure out where the
>REAL experts of this art are coming from.  
>
>If I had to wince following the submission of a comment, I would reconsider
>my motive.
>
>I believe there has been a fair challenge (by the Guru man) here to put
>one's money where their mouth is! Then I can fairly evaluate whether this
>group is out of my league. Time to cough up the credentials.
>
>Sincerely,
>
>Lorna
>
>----

I'm awfully sorry folks...  (I'm apologizing ahead of time!)  I feel
absolutely COMPELLED to speak now, as my delete finger has finally worn
out with a blister on the tip from this Vicki Payne>& subsequent
threads.

I have had quite enough and would like to see this subject die a
natural, (or unnatural and immediate!) death.  I'm more than ready to
hear all these wonderfully talented and incredibly knowledgeable
bungians get back onto the subject of GLASS.  Right Glenna?

I dearly miss the usual flow, and the unity of the subject seems to have
been skewed until it appears that our postings are interspersed with
sniping and griping.  It can be a bit of a turn-off after a while.  I
thank you all for your forthrightness, and ability to communicate your
opinions and information, but may we please just leave Vicki grouted
into the past for now?

Gently and affectionately yours, 
V T Phelps

Shoreline Glassworks, Ltd.
Wanchese, NC
                    _______
"We have this       |     |
 treasure in       (       )
 jars of clay..."  (       )
 2cor4.7niv        (_______)


 * JDS Mail & News

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From owner-glass Thu Nov  6 00:50:29 1997
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	for rglass-42; Thu, 6 Nov 1997 00:49:20 -0800 (PST)
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X-Path: computer.net!alewis
From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@computer.net>
To: Int'l.Guild.of.Glass.Artists@ns.computer.net
Subject: Neon anyone?
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@computer.net>
Date: Thu, 6 Nov 1997 03:52:27 +0000
Message-ID: <199711060845.DAA20964@ns.computer.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

The IGGA's newest Supporting Supplier, offering a 10% discount to 
members on all neon-working supplies, is Savage Neon in Ellicott 
City,  Maryland.  Haley Ryane is the chief high mucky-muck there and 
boy! does she put together a terrific set of workshops and stuff!

The workshops are listed at http://www.stainedglassbiz.com under 
"Events," where they appear in order by date, along with everything 
else that's going on. So, if you've been thinking about adding neon 
techniques to your arts and crafts palette, check that out, as well 
as Save Neon's web site at http://www.savageneon.com/  Ask for a copy 
of their brochure ... pretty darn cool, if you ask me.

Discounts on glassworking tools, equipment and supplies are now being 
offered by 55 different companies. Check 'em out at 
http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/suppsupp.htm  There is no charge for 
this service of the Guild, just benefits for the Guild's members. 
Enjoy!

Albert Lewis
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From owner-glass Thu Nov  6 02:55:57 1997
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X-Path: computer.net!alewis
From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@computer.net>
To: Int'l.Guild.of.Glass.Artists@ns.computer.net
Subject: Oops! Yet another Supporting Supplier
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@computer.net>
Date: Thu, 6 Nov 1997 05:56:52 +0000
Message-ID: <199711061049.FAA22190@ns.computer.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Wouldn't you know? As soon as we'd sent you the info about Savage 
Neon, the very next envelope contained a committment from Stained 
Glass Warehouse in Jacksonville, Florida.

Cliff Rawson, SGW's prez, very kindly offered a 10% discount to Guild 
members on his full line of supplies ... which covers quite a 
spectrum. Not only are neon supplies available, but also what you 
need for acid etching, books of all kinds, cutters and fusing 
supplies, restoration and soldering stuff, beadmaking, came, foil, 
doors, etching suppies, glass paint and what you need to do it, 
tools, chemicals, frames, patterns, sandblasting supplies ... and 
instructional workshops and so forth to learn how to use any and all 
of it ... whether you're new to glass or quite experienced.

Check out Stained Glass Warehouse on 
http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/guides.htm where they're hot-linked 
to the Supporting Supplier page at 
http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/suppsupp.htm and, very soon, you'll 
be able to go directly to their web site at 
http://www.stainedglasswarehouse.com/  At the moment it's under heavy 
construction and you can't get past the barricades. <s>

Thanks, Cliff!  We appreciate your support.

Albert Lewis, Exec. Director
International Guild of Glass Artists
http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/

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From owner-glass Thu Nov  6 07:04:51 1997
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X-Path: az.stratus.com!charlie
From: Charles Spitzer <charlie@az.stratus.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: Re: Question about temperature
Date: Thu,  6 Nov 97 08:03:42 -0700
Message-ID: <m0xTTTE-000LiCC@why.az.stratus.com>
References: <<1997Nov5.131051.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Customer Assistance Center, Stratus Computer, Inc.
Precedence: bulk

You wrote:
> Susanne wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> One of my students has renovated a greenhouse on her property for
> working
> in glass and will be having trouble keeping it heated.
>
> <snip>
>
> Hi!
> A possible suggestion for heating - instead of an electric heater,
> perhaps she could check with someone having a greenhouse for plants in
> her locality and find out how much a greenhouse heater would cost to buy
> and operate, keeping it at a certain min. temp; also there are a number
> of ways to run a layer or two (far better) of plastic over the glass
> that keep it much warmer - one such, spring and latch is easy and
> inexpensive.  She might want to try that even if she decides to stay
> with the elec. heater - it will certainly help with the temp regardless
> ofhow she adds it.  There are lots of orchid societies in PA - would
> suggest she talk with someone near her who has a greenhouse for
> suggestions for heating - they might have additional ideas - or she can
> contact me.  Linn
> ----

it is, after all, a greenhouse. one of the major benefits of a greenhouse is  
that it gets warm, and should be, given a decent amount of sun, pretty warm  
already.

my parents live just outside of philadelphia and have a greenhouse (and  
growing orchids). if you contact me off bungi, i'll put you in touch with  
them. they have an automatic heating/cooling system that is computer  
controlled and they'd more than likely be willing to discuss it.

or you could move to phoenix. we have an abundance of sun and heat! it'll be  
85F here today.
---
Charles Spitzer
charlie@az.stratus.com
Customer Assistance Center
Stratus Computer, Inc.
Phoenix, AZ
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From owner-glass Thu Nov  6 08:56:15 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!Beveler4
From: Beveler4@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Question about temperature
Date: Thu, 6 Nov 1997 11:55:14 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov6.65514.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

This does not actually relate to the greenhouse situation as much as it is
just an experience that I had with a very cold winter some years ago in my
studio. First let me explain that my studio is a pole barn built just for
glass work, concrete floor running water and full electric facilities. I
heated at that time with a kerosene heater that was sufficient while it was
operating, that being the problem . One night the temp dropped to well below
zero and the heater had run out of fuel trying to keep up, I was tucked
comfortably under the covers. The next morning I went to the shop to find
that it was freezing inside and the extreme cold had Cracked my Newcastle
stone (a large stone used for smoothing in the beveling process)A very
expensive lesson. I now heat with a propane furnace which so far has not
given me any trouble,crossing my fingers.Beveler4@aol.com
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From owner-glass Thu Nov  6 17:24:19 1997
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X-Path: netcom.ca!mfig
From: Mikey Figgy <mfig@netcom.ca>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: new video
Date: Thu, 06 Nov 1997 20:23:59 -0500
Message-ID: <1.5.4.32.19971107012359.0066c86c@netcom.ca>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Just got in the other day a great new video called Walls of Light by a
fellow called Ben Hafey, recently retired big shot at Canada's own Canadian
Broadcasting Corporation (the peoples' network). This video covers the
entire history of leaded and stained glass from its beginnings in the Middle
East to the present day. It runs an hour and a half and is chock full of
unexpected segments, subjects and gems from all the masters- Tiffany, La
Farge, FL Wright and Morris to name just a few. My own personal favourite
(Canadian spelling, ok?!) involves the inside shots and video of the
removal, restoration and replacement of a magnificent Tiffany Studio Celtic
Cross from the St. Hubert Chapel (also built by Tiffany) This is the window
and chapel that was recently highlighted in SGAA's Stained Glass Quarterly
magazine. I don't want this to sound as if it is a commercial for the video,
but it is about time that our craft/artform be shown and covered in a proper
light. This can do nothing but help promote stained glass as it should be,
and become the antithesis of the Vickie Payne approach to our craft. Unlike
instructional videos that often get viewed once and then filed away forever
I can see this as one you will watch repeatedly. Check it out!

Mikey
Fantasy In Glass Glassworks, 703 The Queensway, Toronto Canada M8Y 1L2
Canada's first and still its only officially sanctioned stained glass supplier.

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From owner-glass Thu Nov  6 18:41:19 1997
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X-Path: televar.com!fishbait
From: Fishbait <fishbait@televar.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: People Like Stained Glass
Date: Thu, 06 Nov 1997 18:41:59 -0800
Message-ID: <1997Nov6.104159.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Just bought an Amish Country Cookbook from one of my bowling friends and
found this in amongst the sayings throughout  the book and though it
might interest someone else.

People are like stained glass windows; they sparkle and shine when the
sun is out, but when the darkness sets in their true beauty is revealed
only if there is a light within.

Bonnie Clark

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From owner-glass Thu Nov  6 19:47:47 1997
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X-Path: erols.com!jkeane
From: Hee Sun Stained Glass <jkeane@erols.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Advertising Budgets
Date: Thu, 06 Nov 1997 22:47:33 -0500
Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.19971106224733.0069d284@pop.erols.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Well I just figured that perhaps it was time that I figured out how much I
should be
spending on advertising.  So I thought that maybe those of you who spend money
on advertising could let me know what would seem reasonable to budget in for
advertising, and what I should expect to get for this money.  Any help on
this topic would be greatly appreciated.



	 
Robert & Jeanne 	
Hee Sun Stained Glass
P.O Box 322 
Glyndon , MD 21071	
jkeane@erols.com	
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From owner-glass Thu Nov  6 20:47:28 1997
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X-Path: telusplanet.net!dwightj
From: telusplanet.net!dwightj
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: re: people like stained glass
Date: Thu Nov  6 20:46:36 1997
Message-ID: <2.2.32.19971101123456.0068af64@mail.telusplanet.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Dear Bonnie,

What a wonderful metaphor!  Sometimes this group gets pretty hot, but after
all is said and done, the light continues to flicker.  Maybe we should adopt
it as our motto.  Thanks for sharing.

Sincerely,

Lorna

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From owner-glass Thu Nov  6 21:22:10 1997
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X-Path: beachaccess.com!ncscoutr
From: "VALERIE PHELPS" <ncscoutr@beachaccess.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: What's in a name/
Date: Fri, 7 Nov 1997 00:04:05
Message-ID: <1997Nov7.845.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Beach Access BBS
Precedence: bulk


<Snip>
>>LIns glass you mean? I sell their stuff today. But I just gotta one up ya
>>on the try, tho'- here we go; how 'bout Ruthglass? Ever heard about them?
>>How 'bout Canadian Art Glass? Or even Royal City (another great Canadian
>>stained glass manufacturer)?

<<Snippity-snip>>
>Wow that could be amazing since the Lin company went out of business about
>thirty years ago.  Is it the Lin company that was in Penna. that
>manufactures the glass you sell?
>
>Nope never heard of Ruthglass.............how about Chicago Art Glass?
>
>my best,
>pj
>
>----

I know absolutely for sure that the w/sale distributor in Naperville,
Illinois known as "Ed Hoy's International" currently carries over 70
colors of "Lins Glass" as part of their standard stock in their most
recent (1996) catalog.  I believe that Hollander East carries it also,
but there may be severe brain fade on my end regarding Hollander's...
uh, duh..!  :-&

Ciao for now--
V T Phelps
Shoreline Glassworks, Ltd.
                               _______
"But we have this treasure     |     |
 in jars of clay..."          (       )
    2cor4.7niv                (       )
                              (_______)


 * JDS Mail & News

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From owner-glass Thu Nov  6 21:39:04 1997
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From: "VALERIE PHELPS" <ncscoutr@beachaccess.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: What's in a name/MERRY GO ROUND
Date: Fri, 7 Nov 1997 00:25:36
Message-ID: <1997Nov7.82536.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Beach Access BBS
Precedence: bulk

>I won $1000.00 in Reno once, I bought 25 pounds of solder,bought a
$465.00 light
>table and around $300.00 in Fisher flashed glass.  I still haven't used it yet.
>Lots of colors too.  I really miss them!
>Melissa
>
>pj friend wrote:
>
>> Elizabeth wrote,
>>
>> >Yes Sam & I too mourn the demise of merry-go-round, and treasure the ever
>> >dwindling pieces we have - down to a few inches square of some colours :-(
>>
>> Yes we have some merry go round.....................and what about fisher?
>> I happened to reside with the hoarder of all time.  If there is a glass out
>> there
>> that was made and not in existence any more?  Don't fear we have it.
>>-----

Glass, including flashed and crackles by A.C. Fischer Antique is
currently avaialable from Ed Hoy's.

Does anyone have a bit of an shade of 'turtle-green' crackle glass that
they might be willing to share or part with??  I'm developing a project
which really needs 'exactly that' kinda glass... (Does THAT sound
familiar to anyone else out there??)  ;-D 

V T Phelps
Shoreline Glassworks, Ltd.

"Blessed are the censors...
 for they shall inhibit the earth!"


 * JDS Mail & News

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From owner-glass Thu Nov  6 22:40:27 1997
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X-Path: netrox.net!athena
From: "M.-J. Taylor" <athena@netrox.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: re: people like stained glass
Date: Fri, 07 Nov 1997 01:41:30 -0500
Message-ID: <3.0.5.32.19971107014130.007fe4e0@netrox.net>
References: <<2.2.32.19971101123456.0068af64@mail.telusplanet.net>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Lorna wrote: 
>Dear Bonnie,
>
>What a wonderful metaphor!  Sometimes this group gets pretty hot, but after
>all is said and done, the light continues to flicker.  Maybe we should adopt
>it as our motto.  Thanks for sharing.

What a pretty thought! I second the suggestion!

M.-J.
no sig file, I 'm on the road ...
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From owner-glass Fri Nov  7 01:48:53 1997
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X-Path: stainedglass.co.uk!studio
From: "studio@stainedglass.co.uk" <studio@stainedglass.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: new video
Date: Fri, 07 Nov 1997 09:46:15 +0000
Message-ID: <1997Nov7.94615.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

At 20:23 06/11/97 -0500, Mikey wrote:
>Just got in the other day a great new video called Walls of Light by a
>fellow called Ben Hafey. Check it out!
Sounds great, Mikey, but you don't say where it came from.
Have you an address or phone number please for the distributor?
Thanks
Elizabeth
Bournemouth Stained Glass
http://www.stainedglass.co.uk

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From owner-glass Fri Nov  7 02:28:44 1997
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X-Path: computer.net!alewis
From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@computer.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: new video
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@computer.net>
Date: Fri, 7 Nov 1997 05:34:40 +0000
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> From:          Mikey Figgy <mfig@netcom.ca>
> To:            glass@bungi.com
> Subject:       new video
> Date:          Thu, 06 Nov 1997 20:23:59 -0500
> Reply-to:      glass@bungi.com

> Just got in the other day a great new video called Walls of Light

Sounds great!  Good review, too! <s>  Where can one get a copy of the 
tape?

Albert

> Fantasy In Glass Glassworks, 703 The Queensway, Toronto Canada M8Y 1L2
> Canada's first and still its only officially sanctioned stained glass supplier.

I'm curious: "officially sanctioned" by which officials? <g>

A

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From owner-glass Fri Nov  7 02:30:37 1997
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From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@computer.net>
To: Int'l.Guild.of.Glass.Artists@ns.computer.net
Subject: IGGA Online Memo
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@computer.net>
Date: Fri, 7 Nov 1997 05:34:44 +0000
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Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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Two bits of glass news:

Nordic Art Glass, in conjunction with Orrefors Crystal, is sponsoring
a glass intensive trip to Sweden during August 1998 as part of the
100th anniversary of Orrefors Crystal. Visit their web site at
http://co.nbci.net/crystal or contact Bill Geary at Nordic Art Glass,
P.O. Box 2247, Colorado Springs, CO 80901 or call (719) 527-0810 for a
brochure. Email: NordGlass@aol.com  The deadline for reserving a spot
is November 15, 1997 (!) so hurry!

The director of the Stained Glass Craft and Fine Arts College (Sion,
Switzerland), Mr. Pierre Louy, will be in New-York during the
Christmas holidays, more exactly from December 17th though January
6th.  He invites anyone who would be interested in meeting him to get
information about the School to make an appointment with him.  You can
contact him immediately at the School or, call him in New-York at
(212) 262-2949 during his visit.  For more information, write to him: 
P. Louy, Director, Ecole Superieure de Vitrail et de Creation Stained
Glass Craft and Fine Arts College, Route du Manege, 51 1950 SION 4,
Champsec CP 4107 Valais, Switzerland. The telephone number is (+41)
027/203 24 00. Fax: (+41) 027/203 20 76. Their web site:
http://www.esvc.vsnet.ch  E-mail: plouy@bluewin.ch 

Albert Lewis, Exec. Dir.
International Guild of Glass Artists
http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/
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From owner-glass Fri Nov  7 03:52:42 1997
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From: Tunkster97@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Remove me
Date: Fri, 7 Nov 1997 06:51:50 -0500 (EST)
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Please remove me from the list.

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From owner-glass Fri Nov  7 05:32:53 1997
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X-Path: ibm.net!merri.wells
From: "Merri Wells" <merri.wells@ibm.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: People Like Stained Glass
Date: Fri, 7 Nov 1997 07:30:42 -0600
Message-ID: <1997Nov7.13042.0>
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It's beautiful!!  Will definitely be using this message in my home
somewhere.   Thanks, Bonnie!
-----Original Message-----
From: Fishbait <fishbait@televar.com>
To: glass@bungi.com <glass@bungi.com>
Date: Thursday, November 06, 1997 8:47 PM
Subject: People Like Stained Glass


>Just bought an Amish Country Cookbook from one of my bowling friends and
>found this in amongst the sayings throughout  the book and though it
>might interest someone else.
>
>People are like stained glass windows; they sparkle and shine when the
>sun is out, but when the darkness sets in their true beauty is revealed
>only if there is a light within.
>
>Bonnie Clark
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>

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From owner-glass Fri Nov  7 05:45:44 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!StndGlass1
From: StndGlass1@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: new video
Date: Fri, 7 Nov 1997 08:45:12 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov7.34512.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

We're carrying that new video, Walls of Light.  Whoever brought it up is
right, this is a pretty incredible video on the history of stained glass.
 Normal retail is $29.95.  We are doing an intro special at $25.00 through
November 15th!

Jenna Meredith-Sanders
Meredith Stained Glass
www.meredithglass.com
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From owner-glass Fri Nov  7 06:40:59 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!GlasCrafts
From: GlasCrafts@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Walls Of Light Video
Date: Fri, 7 Nov 1997 09:25:52 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov7.42552.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

For those of you who have expressed an interest in the new "Walls of Light"
video, Glass Crafters sells it for $29.95 plus $3.00 priority mail anywhere
in the US.  Quantity prices for resale are also available to dealers. Please
email us directly. Thank You.
Glass Crafters Stained Glass, Inc.
398 Interstate Ct.
Sarasota, FL 34240
1-800-422-4552
1-941-379-8333
FAX: 1-941-379-8827
GlasCrafts@aol.com
http://www.glasscrafters.com
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From owner-glass Fri Nov  7 06:45:36 1997
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X-Path: p085.aone.net.au!allcrafts
From: Melanie Dunstan <allcrafts@p085.aone.net.au>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Window Caulking, cross-crafting
Date: Fri, 07 Nov 1997 20:25:58 +0800
Message-ID: <1997Nov8.42558.0>
References: <<1997Nov5.6532.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Allcrafts Goods & Services
Precedence: bulk

M. Savad wrote:
>  
> there's are quite a few caulks out there. i don't think it's called
> window caulk. try looking for Phenoseal i think that's the right
> spelling. phenoseal flexes with hot and cold and does'nt dry out as
> fast. you could also try bathroom and tile caulk, roof caulk, driveway
> caulk, and i think there's even a sidewalk caulk, along with the type
> for pools, and fire protection (elasomeric caulk, it's red and stains
> everything).
> 
> ---Mike Savad
> 
> --
Thanks very much, Mike, I passed the info along. Take it easy
-- Catcha
Melanie Dunstan, in Perth, Australia
Allcrafts for Unusual Crafts  http://www.ozemail.com.au/~allcraft
Psst! Ask about joining CraftsPages perpetual Craft Fair! Pass It On!


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From owner-glass Fri Nov  7 08:17:35 1997
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X-Path: tillamook.k12.or.us!SteveM
From: Steve Matthies <SteveM@tillamook.k12.or.us>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: Re: looking for info -Reply
Date: Fri, 07 Nov 1997 08:17:08 -0800
Message-ID: <s462ce97.069@tillamook.k12.or.us>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Thanks to all who responded to my plea. Mike Savad said it sounded like
fabricque, a tiffany glass that has a rippled texture, like a cloth
scrunched up.......bingo !  It is hard to describe exactly, slight wavy
texture with rather deep rounded grooves and may have been a
concoction of the studio that made it. One thing I forgot to mention was
that the lamp is a waterlily repro.and this glass was used for the lily
pads. It gives a striking appearance. Bullseye and Uroboros are up here
in my neck of the woods. My next time over there I,ll take a sample and
see if they can do me any good.

Thanks again :}

Steve Matthies
North Coast Glassworks
stevem@Tillamook.k12.or.us
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From owner-glass Fri Nov  7 08:18:03 1997
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X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: "INTERNET:glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Advertising Budgets
Date: Fri, 7 Nov 1997 11:16:58 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov7.61658.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I spend $16.50 per month on Yellow Pages advertising,
$32.00 per month on two Yellow Book ads (localized
Yellow Pages).  I do some spot advertising in local newspapers
which are running special sections and direct mailouts
covering Holiday Happenings, since my shop is located
in a historic town which has become somewhat of a
tourist destination.  This newspaper advertising for the
months of November and December comes to about
$150 for 3 newspapers with full-color ads, including them
sending out their photographer.

Hope this helps.  BTW, I'm a newbie at this retail business
stuff.  The best responses I've gotten (when I remember to
ask people where they learned about my store), are:
1.) My sign along the road (it's on a busy commuter route)
2.) Yellow Pages ad
3.) recommendations from friends who've purchased from me
4.) Newspaper/County Calendar ad
5.) Yellow Book ad

Have fun!
Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
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From owner-glass Fri Nov  7 08:23:21 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!DMR74
From: DMR74@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: mail????
Date: Fri, 7 Nov 1997 11:22:39 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov7.62239.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I haven't gotten mail from bungi in days.... is everyone quieted down or is
my mail messed up?
deb
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From owner-glass Fri Nov  7 08:37:39 1997
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From: Lori <bunzie@flash.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: mail????
Date: Fri, 07 Nov 1997 23:36:48 -0800
Message-ID: <1997Nov7.153648.0>
References: <<1997Nov7.62239.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I think it's YOUR mail hun....I've got Bungi mail comin' out my ears!!!

~Lori
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From owner-glass Fri Nov  7 09:29:34 1997
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X-Path: juno.com!kdeck
From: kdeck@juno.com (k a s)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Question about temperature
Date: Fri, 07 Nov 1997 12:21:52 EST
Message-ID: <1997Nov7.172152.0>
References: <<199711050458.XAA12814@mime4.prodigy.com>>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

> Susanne wrote:
> Hi All,
> 
> One of my students has renovated a greenhouse on her property for
> working
> in glass and will be having trouble keeping it heated.
> 
Hi,
Hit close to home on this one...  Heating is the big problem.  Our
greenhouses were large spaces, running about 100x20 and found the heating
costs to be prohibitive despite taking preventive heat loss measures. 
Due to the structure itself,  we had to keep a constant eye on the
temperature, looking up frequently for snow melt, ice dams in accordance
with the weather.   Put snow or cold air, on a warm glass structure, add
some sun=condensation.  Fans would help, but couldn't avoid the
moisture...that was part of having a greenhouse.  Even with careful
monitoring, a rite of spring was replacing some glass. There are
guidelines that deal with outside temperature ratios to thickness of
glass to inside temperatures allowing her to compute the cost of heating
the space.  Due to the size, converting to solar heat wasn't cost
effective but with a smaller space...??   Perhaps a cacti/tropical grower
could steer her in in the right direction.

smudge pottingly,
Karen

oops...no offense to those that have suggested orchid growers...just
thinking of the humidity factor...







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From owner-glass Fri Nov  7 11:21:49 1997
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X-Path: inspace.net!herba
From: "Herb Adler" <herba@inspace.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Website for Summit Stained Glass!
Date: Fri, 7 Nov 1997 14:09:59 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov7.9959.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Thanks for your kind comments. Since you're one of my favorite bungi
writers, it was welcome indeed.
-----Original Message-----
From: Toby <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com <glass@bungi.com>
Date: Wednesday, November 05, 1997 8:11 PM
Subject: Re: Website for Summit Stained Glass!


>
>
>
>Actually Herb,
>
>You have a very valid point. I know many of us have just been
>visiting Mike Peck's site (Loooong overdue!!), but  only a small
>handful of us actually give the measurements to our glass (and I am
>the FIRST Sinner!!)
>One of my own largest panels (not yet on my WEB-site) measures 12
>ft x 8 ft in a triangle and ALL in one piece (for an indoor
>swimming-pool) . It took me about a year to complete and we
>needed a special truck and scaffolding to instal it. When I took
>photos of it, an internal beam obscured it so that I had to take
>the photo in 5 different sections, perched & roped up to  bits of
>scaffolding about 25 feet up. (Howzat for a young girl of 50!!??)
>Later the customer got the architect back in to remove the
>offending beam.....
>However, it took me a year to complete, because of the amount of
>structural and "civil" engineering I had to consume & digest to
>make sure that this one-piece-monster was properly
>constructed, supported and mounted to stand the test of time..
>Seeing it in a photo without the sizes,   gives no clue about the
>complexity of all these considerations.....
>Even a small panel can often give the illusions of being quite
>substantial in size, when photographically reproduced, so that it
>does not truly reflect the intricacies and skills of small
>details.
>Thanks for rubbing my nose in this quite important fact. Will now
>myself try and correct this on my own web-site.
>Please do let us hear from you again, Herb.
>Kind Regards
>Elisabeth 'n Toby in UK
>
>
>This lurker also
>enjoyed your site. Very impressive! Since I am only a hobbyist (but
>dedicated), it's good to see what those who make a living with the
>art really do. IMHO, I would like to see some indication of the size
>of the works pictured. Thanks for the site which I have bookmarked.
>
>
>----
>As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
>North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
>http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm
>----
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>

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From owner-glass Fri Nov  7 11:21:53 1997
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X-Path: inspace.net!herba
From: "Herb Adler" <herba@inspace.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: new video
Date: Fri, 7 Nov 1997 14:06:01 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov7.961.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I have mentioned this b4 but in light of Mikey's review, it's worth a
repeat. The Morse Museum in Winter Park (Orlando, FL) has one of the finest
Tiffany Collections anywhere. They are in the process of expanding the
museum so that they can display even more of their 4-6000 pieces and
specifically a chapel. I can't remember the details but if you're in the
Orlando area, try to budget at least 1/2 day to visit this outstanding
museum. As far as  I know, they do not have a web page yet.
-----Original Message-----
From: Mikey Figgy <mfig@netcom.ca>
To: glass@bungi.com <glass@bungi.com>
Date: Thursday, November 06, 1997 8:37 PM
Subject: new video


>Just got in the other day a great new video called Walls of Light by a
>fellow called Ben Hafey, recently retired big shot at Canada's own Canadian
>Broadcasting Corporation (the peoples' network). This video covers the
>entire history of leaded and stained glass from its beginnings in the
Middle
>East to the present day. It runs an hour and a half and is chock full of
>unexpected segments, subjects and gems from all the masters- Tiffany, La
>Farge, FL Wright and Morris to name just a few. My own personal favourite
>(Canadian spelling, ok?!) involves the inside shots and video of the
>removal, restoration and replacement of a magnificent Tiffany Studio Celtic
>Cross from the St. Hubert Chapel (also built by Tiffany) This is the window
>and chapel that was recently highlighted in SGAA's Stained Glass Quarterly
>magazine. I don't want this to sound as if it is a commercial for the
video,
>but it is about time that our craft/artform be shown and covered in a
proper
>light. This can do nothing but help promote stained glass as it should be,
>and become the antithesis of the Vickie Payne approach to our craft. Unlike
>instructional videos that often get viewed once and then filed away forever
>I can see this as one you will watch repeatedly. Check it out!
>
>Mikey
>Fantasy In Glass Glassworks, 703 The Queensway, Toronto Canada M8Y 1L2
>Canada's first and still its only officially sanctioned stained glass
supplier.
>
>----
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>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>

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From owner-glass Fri Nov  7 11:57:06 1997
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X-Path: netcom.ca!mfig
From: "mikey friggy" <mfig@netcom.ca>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Re: new video
Date: Fri, 7 Nov 1997 14:45:17 -0500
Message-ID: <199711071955.OAA11184@tor-srs1.netcom.ca>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Exactly.
Fantasy In Glass, 703 The Queensway, Toronto, Canada (Tel:416-252-6868)
Canada's first and still only officially sanctioned stained glass supplier.

----------
From: Albert Lewis <alewis@computer.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: new video
Date: Friday, November 07, 1997 12:34 AM

> From:          Mikey Figgy <mfig@netcom.ca>
> To:            glass@bungi.com
> Subject:       new video
> Date:          Thu, 06 Nov 1997 20:23:59 -0500
> Reply-to:      glass@bungi.com

> Just got in the other day a great new video called Walls of Light

Sounds great!  Good review, too! <s>  Where can one get a copy of the 
tape?

Albert

> Fantasy In Glass Glassworks, 703 The Queensway, Toronto Canada M8Y 1L2
> Canada's first and still its only officially sanctioned stained glass
supplier.

I'm curious: "officially sanctioned" by which officials? <g>

A

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From owner-glass Fri Nov  7 11:57:10 1997
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From: "mikey friggy" <mfig@netcom.ca>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Re: new video
Date: Fri, 7 Nov 1997 14:53:36 -0500
Message-ID: <199711071955.OAA11197@tor-srs1.netcom.ca>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

While I brought the video "Walls of Light' to the attention of the Bungi
group, I did not feel it proper to mention myself as an outlet to obtain
the video. I would prefer the video stand on its own merit without anyone
thinking it was only worthy because I/someone had something to gain from
its mention in this forum.
In the U.S. anyone that carries CKE Publications books should be carrying
it soon (it is a Canadian product hence its availability a little earlier
here in Canada) as they will be handling distribution there. Canadian
customers can get it from any reputable retailer here of which we are just
one of many.
 Fantasy In Glass, 703 The Queensway, Toronto, Canada (Tel:416-252-6868)
Canada's first and still only officially sanctioned stained glass supplier.

----------
From: studio@stainedglass.co.uk
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: new video
Date: Friday, November 07, 1997 4:46 AM

At 20:23 06/11/97 -0500, Mikey wrote:
>Just got in the other day a great new video called Walls of Light by a
>fellow called Ben Hafey. Check it out!
Sounds great, Mikey, but you don't say where it came from.
Have you an address or phone number please for the distributor?
Thanks
Elizabeth
Bournemouth Stained Glass
http://www.stainedglass.co.uk

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From owner-glass Fri Nov  7 12:31:23 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!Margaret41
From: Margaret41@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: chat mail
Date: Fri, 7 Nov 1997 15:30:13 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov7.103013.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

is chat mail still in existence? i was on the list but notice i haven't rec'd
anything in a while. thanks
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From owner-glass Fri Nov  7 14:36:04 1997
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X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Advertising Budgets
Date: Fri, 07 Nov 1997 17:33:29 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov7.123329.0>
References: <<1997Nov7.61658.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo wrote:
> 
> I spend $16.50 per month on Yellow Pages advertising,
> $32.00 per month on two Yellow Book ads (localized
> Yellow Pages).  I do some spot advertising in local newspapers
> which are running special sections and direct mailouts
> covering Holiday Happenings, since my shop is located
> in a historic town which has become somewhat of a
> tourist destination.  This newspaper advertising for the
> months of November and December comes to about
> $150 for 3 newspapers with full-color ads, including them
> sending out their photographer.
> 
> Hope this helps.  BTW, I'm a newbie at this retail business
> stuff.  The best responses I've gotten (when I remember to
> ask people where they learned about my store), are:
> 1.) My sign along the road (it's on a busy commuter route)
> 2.) Yellow Pages ad
> 3.) recommendations from friends who've purchased from me
> 4.) Newspaper/County Calendar ad
> 5.) Yellow Book ad
> 
> Have fun!
> Christie A. Wood
> Art Glass Ensembles
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


and of course you can't forget about being online. a good homepage,
really costs nothing, for the large amount of people who could see it.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
 New Pages Added: 11 New Tip Pages, Including: Random Tips, Box Making
Tips, How to Fix Scratched Glass, Getting Pictures, How to Maintain
Tools and How Long They Last, Pictures of my Lamp Lit, 1 New Project,
Shopping Lists, and See My Bio with a picture of ME.
----
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From owner-glass Fri Nov  7 14:36:58 1997
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	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #8 built 1997-Jun-19)
X-Path: juno.com!jroey
From: jroey@juno.com (Jerri M Roey)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Morse Museum
Date: Fri, 7 Nov 1997 17:02:28 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov7.12228.0>
References: <<1997Nov7.961.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


	I got to stop at the Morse Museum when we were in Fla. for a few
days last month. It was wonderful.  A couple of pieces even had his
original drawings, then a model, then the real piece.   It either makes
me want to try harder or give it up.  Very humbling.  If my daughter
hadn't been there, I could have spent hours.  The volunteers were very
knowledgeable and eager to share what they knew.  Definitely worth the $3
admission.  If you are in the area, don't miss it.

Jerri





On Fri, 7 Nov 1997 14:06:01 -0500 "Herb Adler" <herba@inspace.net>
writes:
>I have mentioned this b4 but in light of Mikey's review, it's worth a
>repeat. The Morse Museum in Winter Park (Orlando, FL) has one of the 
>finest
>Tiffany Collections anywhere. They are in the process of expanding the
>museum so that they can display even more of their 4-6000 pieces and
>specifically a chapel. I can't remember the details but if you're in 
>the
>Orlando area, try to budget at least 1/2 day to visit this outstanding
>museum. As far as  I know, they do not have a web page yet.
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Mikey Figgy <mfig@netcom.ca>
>To: glass@bungi.com <glass@bungi.com>
>Date: Thursday, November 06, 1997 8:37 PM
>Subject: new video
----
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From owner-glass Fri Nov  7 14:40:55 1997
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Hello, anyone there?
Date: Fri, 07 Nov 1997 17:37:35 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov7.123735.0>
References: <<1997Nov4.32955.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Linda Campbell wrote:
> 
> Sorry for the empty post but I have not received any bungi mail since =
> All Hallow's Eve.=20
> 
> Is every one working too hard to speak or am I off the list?
> 
> I worked on a lighthouse kaleidoscope last night. I'm trying to use a =
> marble in the lamp area as the viewing object but by the time I put the =
> roof on, it's dark in there. It may work if the viewer makes sure that =
> light comes in from the side, rather than aiming the end at a light =
> source.
> 
> The kaleidoscope is eigth-sided just like the Montauk Point lighthouse =
> and I want to put a walkway all the way around close to the top. Any =
> suggestions?=20
> 
> - glass (too heavy and bulky looking I think).=20
> - wire (too many pieces to come loose - brackets and handrails and such)
> - Maybe flat copper sheet cut to shape and tinned?
> 
> I'm out of ideas. Why oh why do I start projects I have no idea how they =
> are going to finish?
> 
> Linda Campbell
> =20
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


well, i'm having problems visualizing the marble part. but how about
this for the stairs. you would need to line the side pieces up to form a
spiral (up the sides of the lighthouse). then using layers of glass,
stack them up like stairs, up the spiral of solder. the stairs should
roughly be in scale, and still be strong enough for handling. just be
sure to make the stairs short, 3/8" - 1/2" long. use a heavy guage wire
for the rail and put supports evey few inches.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
 New Pages Added: 11 New Tip Pages, Including: Random Tips, Box Making
Tips, How to Fix Scratched Glass, Getting Pictures, How to Maintain
Tools and How Long They Last, Pictures of my Lamp Lit, 1 New Project,
Shopping Lists, and See My Bio with a picture of ME.
----
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From owner-glass Fri Nov  7 14:40:56 1997
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: new video
Date: Fri, 07 Nov 1997 17:38:44 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov7.123844.0>
References: <<1997Nov7.961.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Herb Adler wrote:
> 
> I have mentioned this b4 but in light of Mikey's review, it's worth a
> repeat. The Morse Museum in Winter Park (Orlando, FL) has one of the finest
> Tiffany Collections anywhere. They are in the process of expanding the
> museum so that they can display even more of their 4-6000 pieces and
> specifically a chapel. I can't remember the details but if you're in the
> Orlando area, try to budget at least 1/2 day to visit this outstanding
> museum. As far as  I know, they do not have a web page yet.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mikey Figgy <mfig@netcom.ca>
> To: glass@bungi.com <glass@bungi.com>
> Date: Thursday, November 06, 1997 8:37 PM
> Subject: new video
> 
> >Just got in the other day a great new video called Walls of Light by a
> >fellow called Ben Hafey, recently retired big shot at Canada's own Canadian
> >Broadcasting Corporation (the peoples' network). This video covers the
> >entire history of leaded and stained glass from its beginnings in the
> Middle
> >East to the present day. It runs an hour and a half and is chock full of
> >unexpected segments, subjects and gems from all the masters- Tiffany, La
> >Farge, FL Wright and Morris to name just a few. My own personal favourite
> >(Canadian spelling, ok?!) involves the inside shots and video of the
> >removal, restoration and replacement of a magnificent Tiffany Studio Celtic
> >Cross from the St. Hubert Chapel (also built by Tiffany) This is the window
> >and chapel that was recently highlighted in SGAA's Stained Glass Quarterly
> >magazine. I don't want this to sound as if it is a commercial for the
> video,
> >but it is about time that our craft/artform be shown and covered in a
> proper
> >light. This can do nothing but help promote stained glass as it should be,
> >and become the antithesis of the Vickie Payne approach to our craft. Unlike
> >instructional videos that often get viewed once and then filed away forever
> >I can see this as one you will watch repeatedly. Check it out!
> >
> >Mikey
> >Fantasy In Glass Glassworks, 703 The Queensway, Toronto Canada M8Y 1L2
> >Canada's first and still its only officially sanctioned stained glass
> supplier.
> >
> >----
> >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> >To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> >
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


it's not an official homepage, but here's extra info anyway
http://www.goflorida.com/central/orlando/see/museum/morse.html

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
 New Pages Added: 11 New Tip Pages, Including: Random Tips, Box Making
Tips, How to Fix Scratched Glass, Getting Pictures, How to Maintain
Tools and How Long They Last, Pictures of my Lamp Lit, 1 New Project,
Shopping Lists, and See My Bio with a picture of ME.
----
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From owner-glass Fri Nov  7 15:07:53 1997
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X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Morse Museum
Date: Fri, 07 Nov 1997 18:05:16 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov7.13516.0>
References: <<1997Nov7.12228.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Jerri M Roey wrote:
> 
>         I got to stop at the Morse Museum when we were in Fla. for a few
> days last month. It was wonderful.  A couple of pieces even had his
> original drawings, then a model, then the real piece.   It either makes
> me want to try harder or give it up.  Very humbling.  If my daughter
> hadn't been there, I could have spent hours.  The volunteers were very
> knowledgeable and eager to share what they knew.  Definitely worth the $3
> admission.  If you are in the area, don't miss it.
> 
> Jerri
> 
> On Fri, 7 Nov 1997 14:06:01 -0500 "Herb Adler" <herba@inspace.net>
> writes:
> >I have mentioned this b4 but in light of Mikey's review, it's worth a
> >repeat. The Morse Museum in Winter Park (Orlando, FL) has one of the
> >finest
> >Tiffany Collections anywhere. They are in the process of expanding the
> >museum so that they can display even more of their 4-6000 pieces and
> >specifically a chapel. I can't remember the details but if you're in
> >the
> >Orlando area, try to budget at least 1/2 day to visit this outstanding
> >museum. As far as  I know, they do not have a web page yet.
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: Mikey Figgy <mfig@netcom.ca>
> >To: glass@bungi.com <glass@bungi.com>
> >Date: Thursday, November 06, 1997 8:37 PM
> >Subject: new video
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

do you or anyone know if they allow pictures? someday when i happen to
be in florida i'll take a roll or two or three...

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
 New Pages Added: 11 New Tip Pages, Including: Random Tips, Box Making
Tips, How to Fix Scratched Glass, Getting Pictures, How to Maintain
Tools and How Long They Last, Pictures of my Lamp Lit, 1 New Project,
Shopping Lists, and See My Bio with a picture of ME.
----
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To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Fri Nov  7 17:32:28 1997
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From: Reitmann <oddjob@scc.net>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="---- =_NextPart_000_01BCEBB3.EC0D4FE0"
Subject: RE: Morse Museum
Date: Fri, 7 Nov 1997 19:32:37 -0600
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------ =_NextPart_000_01BCEBB3.EC0D4FE0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<snip>
do you or anyone know if they allow pictures? someday when i happen to
be in florida i'll take a roll or two or three...

The last time I was there, about 1 1/2 yrs. ago (before they moved into =
the new location) NO pictures were allowed. They sold alot of photos =
etc, pattern books, in the gift shop however.
Definately a place to stop while in Florida. Gave me the same "humble" =
feelings!!
Sue Reitmann


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From owner-glass Sat Nov  8 00:01:56 1997
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X-Path: beachaccess.com!ncscoutr
From: "VALERIE PHELPS" <ncscoutr@beachaccess.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Message rejected by system
Date: Sat, 8 Nov 1997 02:48:05
Message-ID: <1997Nov8.10485.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Beach Access BBS
Precedence: bulk


Just a quick sorta-glass-related-by-association question...
How many of us are registered with ICQ and would like to do some
occassional, deliberate, live chat 
meetings or have an ICQ User's List for "stained glass" available on a
web page?

I will ask that for the sake of not cluttering the bungi list too much
you might consider e-mailing me 
privately... 

Ciao for now!
V T Phelps
Shoreline Glassworks, Ltd
-----				 ________
"But we have this treasure	 |      |   "Blessed are the censors
in jars of clay..."		(        )    for they shall
				(        )    inhibit the earth!"
2cor4.7niv			(________)





 * JDS Mail & News

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From owner-glass Sat Nov  8 04:51:01 1997
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X-Path: juno.com!jroey
From: jroey@juno.com (Jerri M Roey)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Morse Museum
Date: Sat, 8 Nov 1997 07:48:18 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov8.24818.0>
References: <<1997Nov7.12228.0>>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk



>
>do you or anyone know if they allow pictures? someday when i happen to
>be in florida i'll take a roll or two or three...
>
>---Mike Savad


The policy said "no pictures", but it seems like I overheard one of the
volunteers talking to a visitor, and it sounded like they might let you. 
Maybe it depends on who you ask.  I'd call ahead and ask.  

Jerri
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From owner-glass Sat Nov  8 05:26:28 1997
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X-Path: exoticauctions.com!mail
From: mail@exoticauctions.com
To: mail@exoticauctions.com
Subject: Exotic Animal Auction
Date: Sat,  8 Nov 97 08:35:25 EST
Message-ID: <m0xUAsj-0000IoC@daver.bungi.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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Visit http://www.exoticauctions.com to visit a whole new angle on the exotic animal market.

If you have any animals or animal related products that you would like to sell... 
or if you would like to aquire animals or animal related products... of any size or type,
just visit http://www.exoticauctions.com.   Exotic Auctions is an Auction House for
DOMESTIC and EXOTIC animals.
 
///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
If you wish to be removed from this advertiser's future mailings, please reply 
with the subject "Remove" and this software will automatically block you 
from their future mailings.
////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

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To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Exotic Animal Auction
Date: Sat, 08 Nov 1997 10:40:15 -0330
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Organization: thezone
Precedence: bulk

mail@exoticauctions.com wrote:
> 
> Visit http://www.exoticauctions.com to visit a whole new angle on the exotic animal market.
> 
> If you have any animals or animal related products that you would like to sell...
> or if you would like to aquire animals or animal related products... of any size or type,
> just visit http://www.exoticauctions.com.   Exotic Auctions is an Auction House for
> DOMESTIC and EXOTIC animals.
> 
> ///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
> If you wish to be removed from this advertiser's future mailings, please reply
> with the subject "Remove" and this software will automatically block you
> from their future mailings.
> ////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
> 
> ----
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> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glassremove
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From owner-glass Sat Nov  8 06:36:21 1997
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From: GeeHaeb@aol.com
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Subject: Re:  Re: Exotic Animal Auction
Date: Sat, 8 Nov 1997 09:34:53 -0500 (EST)
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Remove
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From owner-glass Sat Nov  8 09:21:19 1997
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>Visit http://www.exoticauctions.com to visit a whole new angle on the
exotic animal market.
>
>If you have any animals or animal related products that you would like to
sell...=A0
>or if you would like to aquire animals or animal related products... of any
size or type,
>just visit http://www.exoticauctions.com.=A0=A0 Exotic Auctions is an=
 Auction
House for
>DOMESTIC and EXOTIC animals.
>=A0
>///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////=
////
>If you wish to be removed from this advertiser's future mailings, please=
 reply=20
>with the subject "Remove" and this software will automatically block you=20
>from their future mailings.
>///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/////
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
>
>

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From owner-glass Sat Nov  8 09:28:43 1997
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X-Path: ee.net!pucky
From: Sheba <pucky@ee.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Remove
Date: Sat, 08 Nov 1997 12:35:41 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov8.73541.0>
References: <<m0xUAsj-0000IoC@daver.bungi.com>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Thanks!

mail@exoticauctions.com wrote:

> Visit http://www.exoticauctions.com to visit a whole new angle on the exotic animal market.
>
> If you have any animals or animal related products that you would like to sell...
> or if you would like to aquire animals or animal related products... of any size or type,
> just visit http://www.exoticauctions.com.   Exotic Auctions is an Auction House for
> DOMESTIC and EXOTIC animals.
>
> ///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
> If you wish to be removed from this advertiser's future mailings, please reply
> with the subject "Remove" and this software will automatically block you
> from their future mailings.
> ////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass



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From owner-glass Sat Nov  8 09:54:50 1997
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X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Remove
Date: Sat, 08 Nov 1997 12:51:46 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov8.75146.0>
References: <<199711081720.MAA12753@arthur.INS.CWRU.Edu>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Theodore P. Hasenstaub wrote:
> 
> >Visit http://www.exoticauctions.com to visit a whole new angle on the
> exotic animal market.
> >
> >If you have any animals or animal related products that you would like to
> sell...=A0
> >or if you would like to aquire animals or animal related products... of any
> size or type,
> >just visit http://www.exoticauctions.com.=A0=A0 Exotic Auctions is an=
>  Auction
> House for
> >DOMESTIC and EXOTIC animals.
> >=A0
> >///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////=
> ////
> >If you wish to be removed from this advertiser's future mailings, please=
>  reply=20
> >with the subject "Remove" and this software will automatically block you=20
> >from their future mailings.
> >///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
> /////
> >
> >----
> >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> >To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> >
> >
> >
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass



you all have to be carefull what you say, or you may remove yourself
from the bungi list without realizing it.

---Mike Savad



-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
 New Pages Added: 11 New Tip Pages, Including: Random Tips, Box Making
Tips, How to Fix Scratched Glass, Getting Pictures, How to Maintain
Tools and How Long They Last, Pictures of my Lamp Lit, 1 New Project,
Shopping Lists, and See My Bio with a picture of ME.
----
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From owner-glass Sat Nov  8 13:52:56 1997
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X-Path: telusplanet.net!dwightj
From: telusplanet.net!dwightj
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: remove
Date: Sat Nov  8 13:50:56 1997
Message-ID: <2.2.32.19971107130427.006bba00@mail.telusplanet.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

         Please remove.  Thank you.  Lorna

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From owner-glass Sat Nov  8 13:57:13 1997
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X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: venting lamps
Date: Sat, 08 Nov 1997 15:08:22 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov8.10822.0>
References: <<1997Nov8.75146.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

does anyone here know if you really have to vent a lamp. i'm working on
a design, that is kind of tall, 14" to maybe 20" tall at the highest
point. the bottom will be fairly open. but i was thinking last night,
that it might need a vent put in it somewhere. but i don't know if it's
that important to vent the lamp.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
 New Pages Added: 11 New Tip Pages, Including: Random Tips, Box Making
Tips, How to Fix Scratched Glass, Getting Pictures, How to Maintain
Tools and How Long They Last, Pictures of my Lamp Lit, 1 New Project,
Shopping Lists, and See My Bio with a picture of ME.
----
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From owner-glass Sat Nov  8 13:59:38 1997
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Exotic Animal Auction
Date: Sat, 8 Nov 1997 20:09:35 +0000
Message-ID: <1997Nov8.20935.0>
References: <<1997Nov8.43453.0@?>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

In message <1997Nov8.43453.0@?>, GeeHaeb@aol.com writes
>Remove
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
 
It has been suggested to me by a knowledgeable computer service person
that replying to be taken off a junk mail list does exactly the opposite
of what is wanted.  It registers your address with the originator of the
(in this case exotic animal site) message.  I know this stuff is
irritating, etc.  but I'm not going to take the chance of giving them my
address.

-- 
Steve Richard
----
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From owner-glass Sat Nov  8 14:01:02 1997
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X-Path: hotmail.com!lisacarroll
From: "Lisa Carroll" <lisacarroll@hotmail.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: Remove
Date: Sat, 08 Nov 1997 12:11:15 PST
Message-ID: <1997Nov8.201115.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
----
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From owner-glass Sat Nov  8 14:23:01 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!MsChatee
From: MsChatee@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: looking for info
Date: Sat, 8 Nov 1997 15:47:01 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov8.10471.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Well I just spent the past 2 hours (it's Saturday afternoon) at Mike's
WEBSITE.  I was reading these emails when I saw his URL and decided to check
it out.  Mike you are a creative Genius (with maybe a touch of OCD:-) ).  I
can't imagine in a lifetime being able to produce what you do, you are an
inspiration and motivator for me.  I can't wait to get back in the basement
and start working (and to think I was just reading my mail).
For any of you who haven't checked it out you MUST!
THanks Mike!
----
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From owner-glass Sat Nov  8 15:28:30 1997
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X-Path: mfi.net!jcampbell
From: "jcampbell" <jcampbell@mfi.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1"; X-MAPIextension=".TXT"
Subject: craft shows
Date: Sat, 08 Nov 97 18:10:55 PST
Message-ID: <1997Nov9.21055.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Does anyone out there have information on up-coming craft shows in the =
central Florida area?  We do Tiffany Reproduction lamps and other stained=
 glass work and would like to go to some shows.  Would appreciate any inf=
o anyone can give us.

jc

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From owner-glass Sat Nov  8 16:44:35 1997
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X-Path: worldnet.att.net!summit-stained-glass
From: mike peck <summit-stained-glass@worldnet.att.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Exotic Animal Auction
Date: Sat, 08 Nov 1997 18:45:51 -0600
Message-ID: <1997Nov8.124551.0>
References: <<1997Nov8.20935.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Summit Stained Glass
Precedence: bulk

Steve Richard wrote:
> 
> In message <1997Nov8.43453.0@?>, GeeHaeb@aol.com writes
> >Remove
> >----
> >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> >To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> 
> It has been suggested to me by a knowledgeable computer service person
> that replying to be taken off a junk mail list does exactly the opposite
> of what is wanted.  It registers your address with the originator of the
> (in this case exotic animal site) message.  I know this stuff is
> irritating, etc.  but I'm not going to take the chance of giving them my
> address.
> 
> --
> Steve Richard


Besides that, this thing came into bungi ..... it didn't come into us! 
Glenna has to "remove"!

Mike Peck
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From owner-glass Sat Nov  8 16:54:08 1997
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X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: looking for info
Date: Sat, 08 Nov 1997 19:52:13 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov8.145213.0>
References: <<1997Nov8.10471.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

MsChatee@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Well I just spent the past 2 hours (it's Saturday afternoon) at Mike's
> WEBSITE.  I was reading these emails when I saw his URL and decided to check
> it out.  Mike you are a creative Genius (with maybe a touch of OCD:-) ).  I
> can't imagine in a lifetime being able to produce what you do, you are an
> inspiration and motivator for me.  I can't wait to get back in the basement
> and start working (and to think I was just reading my mail).
> For any of you who haven't checked it out you MUST!
> THanks Mike!
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


hey, thanks, very, very soon i'll be uploading the new sections. one is
setting up a shop, the other my aliens section. i've also added 40
links.  i'll anounce it of course.... when it's all done...

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
 New Pages Added: 11 New Tip Pages, Including: Random Tips, Box Making
Tips, How to Fix Scratched Glass, Getting Pictures, How to Maintain
Tools and How Long They Last, Pictures of my Lamp Lit, 1 New Project,
Shopping Lists, and See My Bio with a picture of ME.
----
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To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Sat Nov  8 18:23:03 1997
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X-Path: mail.nildram.co.uk!glass
From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Swedish Glass
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@mail.nildram.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 9 Nov 1997 03:21:25 +0000
Message-ID: <199711090222.CAA14363@pluto.nildram.co.uk>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Dear Albert,

I bet you sat there going teehee and fully expected me to creep out 
from the woodwork again.....
Being totally dependable - but NEVER predictable.... here I am!
Being the ''token Swede'' , albeit in exile  :-(    , I just had to 
comment.  (It's winter.... it's dark.... I'm home-sick.... and the UK 
government has just stolen another hour of day-light!!  Life 
just is NOT fair!!)
While your e-mail rolled off my screen, I clicked 
on the site you gave on Orrefors and found it titillating in its 
brevity and mouth-watering in its prospects. Even I would have loved 
to go on this trip - for old time's sake. As a youngster in Sweden, 
we were taught about the Swedish glass industry and its proud 
history. Part of the school outings were 2-3 long day visits to the 
''glass-huts'' in the deep forrests, in the back of beyond.Translated 
into English, the name ''Orrefors'' meansThe Brook of the Grouse.
The main glass-huts are mainly concentrated in the  middle of South 
Sweden, in a county called Smaland. There are others elsewhere, but 
this is really the HEART of Swedish glass-making.

Orrefors is mainly known for its fabulous crystal glass although it 
also makes other glass. Although Orrefors celebrates 100 years as an 
amalgamated share-holding company next year (it has 2 large glass 
making sites in different locations), that doesn't mean that Orrefors 
as a well-established glassmaking community is only 100 years old. 
It's history dates much further back than that. My price possession 
from Orrefors is a smokey-grey lead-crystal vase, with the most 
exquisite engraving of a nude girl on it (very 1920-style). It is 
signed by the artist and there were ever only 2 of them made.  They 
were both given to my grand-mother by my grand-father as a wedding 
anniversary present. Each of them weigh approx 3.75 kg. My aunt has 
the other one. In my early 20's I started collecting liqueur and 
sherry glasses from Orrefors. They were so expensive I could only 
afford to buy one at a time. I now have about 9 of them.

Then there is Kosta Glasbruk (also in Smaland) It's history  as a 
Company dates back to 1741 ( not forgetting that glass-making there 
went on long before then) They are mainly known for their art-glass  
and decorative glass nowadays. My other price possession comes from 
Kosta. It consists of the remains of the family lead crystal glass 
collection dating from about 1775, and which originally started out 
as a set of 24 glasses of every kind , size and description you could 
possibly imagine, including large tumblers, small tumblers, champagne 
glasses, white wine flutes, small red wine goblets, large red wine 
goblets and so on and so on, all hand-blown and hand-cut. I think 
there must have originally been about 9 or 10 different types of 
glasses in the collection.Left to me are  about 6 different types of 
glasses in complete sets of 7-8 of each, plus numerous odd other 
ones, which has enabled me to reasonably guestimate the  various 
types.  In my childhood these glasses were used  when my family was 
required to entertain ''officially'' and special staff used to be 
hired to deal with the glasses alone.If one broke, it was almost a 
''national tragedy''.....Funny to think that these days, what cannot 
be fitted into my  glass cabinet in the dining-room, is now packed in 
old Swedish newspapers upstairs in the attic....... And I have broken 
one or two myself.....

Boda Glasbruk is located in the southern part of Smaland in a small 
village with perhaps the grand total of 500 - 600 inhabitants.  It 
has been far more aggressive in its 20th centurry international 
marketing and exporting than either Orrefors or Kosta (which both 
have really only recently caught up). Boda never specialized in 
lead-crystal in the same way as  Orrefors and Kosta, but went for 
innovative, experimental and ''fun'' glass with a more universal 
appeal. Into their glass-making they weave a certain amount of Nordic 
and Viking popular myths, themes and legends that work quite well and 
has traditionally always been very popular in Europe.

By the way, Albert, you don't happen to know the SWEDISH web-address 
for any of these three??

Just thought you might like to know the ''Swedish Side'' of me also.
If not... sorry if I have been ranting on. Just press the ''delete'' 
button..   Whooosh... Gone!
Elisabeth 'n Toby in UK

Albert wrote;
 Nordic Art Glass, in conjunction with Orrefors Crystal, is 
sponsoring a glass intensive trip to Sweden during August 1998 as 
part of the 100th anniversary of Orrefors Crystal. Visit their web 
site at http://co.nbci.net/crystal or contact Bill Geary at Nordic 
Art Glass, P.O. Box 2247, Colorado Springs, CO 80901 or call (719) 
527-0810 for a brochure. Email: NordGlass@aol.com  The deadline for 
reserving a spot is November 15, 1997 (!) so hurry!

----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
----
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From owner-glass Sat Nov  8 18:23:38 1997
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X-Path: mail.nildram.co.uk!glass
From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: REMOVE  the funny monkeys
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@mail.nildram.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 9 Nov 1997 03:21:25 +0000
Message-ID: <199711090222.CAA14371@pluto.nildram.co.uk>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Mike (Savad)  ... and all

VERY valid point, Mike. In fact, that's what I think LORNA has just 
done, without realizing it.
I was quite surprised to see a very curt one word message from her 
into the Group.
Bet you, we will soon have some wailing from her.... unless our 
mindful, hawk-eyed Glenna has already spotted this rather nasty spam.

Just press DELETE folks, do not ''remove'', or  we might lose you  
:-(

Elisabeth 'n Toby in UK

Mike wrote:
> >///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////=
> ////
> >If you wish to be removed from this advertiser's future mailings, please=
>  reply=20
> >with the subject "Remove" and this software will automatically block you=20
> >from their future mailings.
> >///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
> /////




you all have to be carefull what you say, or you may remove yourself
from the bungi list without realizing it.



----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
----
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From owner-glass Sat Nov  8 19:06:50 1997
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X-Path: sws.nb.ca!montgomery
From: Montgomery <montgomery@sws.nb.ca>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: REMOVE  the funny monkeys
Date: Sat, 8 Nov 1997 19:06:14 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <m0xUNhW-0000cqC@daver.bungi.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

At 03:21 09/11/97 +0000, you wrote:
>Mike (Savad)  ... and all
>
>VERY valid point, Mike. In fact, that's what I think LORNA has just 
>done, without realizing it.
>I was quite surprised to see a very curt one word message from her 
>into the Group.
>Bet you, we will soon have some wailing from her.... unless our 
>mindful, hawk-eyed Glenna has already spotted this rather nasty spam.
>
>Just press DELETE folks, do not ''remove'', or  we might lose you  
>:-(
>
>Elisabeth 'n Toby in UK
>
>Mike wrote:
>> >///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////=
>> ////
>> >If you wish to be removed from this advertiser's future mailings, please=
>>  reply=20
>> >with the subject "Remove" and this software will automatically block you=20
>> >from their future mailings.
>> >///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
>> /////
>
>
>
>
>you all have to be carefull what you say, or you may remove yourself
>from the bungi list without realizing it.
>
>

     Forgive me for being blunt, but what does the above message have to do
with glass?  With all due respect, please send things like this to the ones
who read them.  It's this kind of thing that fills up people's mail boxes,
so they have to go through the list deleting them all.

- Jonathan
<-> <-> <-> <-> <-> <-> <-> <-> <-> <-> <-> <-> <-> <-> <-> <-> <-> <-> <-> <->

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From owner-glass Sat Nov  8 20:42:55 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!DGlswrks
From: DGlswrks@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Exotic Animal Auction
Date: Sat, 8 Nov 1997 23:42:10 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov8.184210.0>
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remove
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From owner-glass Sat Nov  8 20:56:47 1997
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X-Path: p085.aone.net.au!allcrafts
From: Melanie Dunstan <allcrafts@p085.aone.net.au>
To: "Well, naturally!" <wellnat@sure.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Potpourri: Stones: cross-crafting
Date: Sun, 09 Nov 1997 02:42:53 +0800
Message-ID: <1997Nov9.104253.0>
References: <<02041115568650@sure.net>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Allcrafts Goods & Services
Precedence: bulk

Debbie Evans Braun wrote:
>  
> The same company that made the stone set I saw made another set
> with that "sea glass" stuff. I think it's just sand-blasted or
> tumbled glass shards (green, blue, clear) that looks like glass
> that's been weathered at the beach. They were selling about 1/4
> cup of glass or stones with about 1/2 oz. of fragrance and a 3"
> diameter dish to put it in for about $35.
> 
> You can buy a bag of sea glass at shops like Bed,Bath and
> Beyond, etc... Some people use it to "mulch" a house plant, but
> I think it could be used as I saw it.
> 
-----------
Gidday Y'all on both lists; I'm copying this to the glass list because
there may be someone on the glass list who is willing to supply
sandblasted glass shards w/sale or retail to the potpourri list members
at a reasonable price rather than the obvious daylight robbery that Deb
saw. Hope I'm not committing a netiquette blunder in so doing.

Deb, those prices are shocking. We are talking about little bits of
glass that would otherwise go in the bin, here, I believe. Bungi
listmembers, the potpourri list members use the sandblasted glass as one
of the elements in the decorative mix; fragranced oils are poured on the
sandblasted surface, and left to scent the air, looking mighty
attractive in the process.

Now I've completed the introductions, I'll fade.... but if anyone is
interested and unable to reach members of the other list, please feel
free to email me.
-- Catcha
Melanie Dunstan, in Perth, Australia
Allcrafts for Unusual Crafts  http://www.ozemail.com.au/~allcraft
Psst! Ask about joining CraftsPages perpetual Craft Fair! Pass It On!


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From owner-glass Sat Nov  8 22:19:18 1997
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X-Path: prodigy.com!YWAH36A
From: YWAH36A@prodigy.com ( BOB   DUCHESNEAU)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: venting lamps
Date: Sun,  9 Nov 1997 01:16:13, -0500
Message-ID: <199711090616.BAA19762@mime4.prodigy.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Mike wrote:
does anyone here know if you really have to vent a lamp. i'm working 
on
a design, that is kind of tall, 14" to maybe 20" tall at the highest
point. the bottom will be fairly open. but i was thinking last night,

that it might need a vent put in it somewhere. but i don't know if 
it's
that important to vent the lamp.

---Mike Savad
Bob thinks & writes,
  The reason for venting a lamp is to provide a way for heat to 
escape. To much heat & the glass will crack. While many lamp bases 
call for a max of 60 watt bulbs it is a good bet that a lamp built to 
handle a 100 watt bulb is better in the hands of the public. 
  The laws of physics call for heat to rise & so a lamp shade is a 
good trap for heat unless venting at the top is provided.
  The shape of the lamp shade, distance from the bulb, color of glass 
& no doubt several other factors make firm rules of venting hard to 
figure. To my way of thinking, the only way to know if it is 
necessary to vent a lamp is to build one & see if it survives a 100 
watt bulb when lighted in a cold room. Just tack & seal the unvented 
heat cap on & if it proves unsatisfactory it should not be to hard to 
substitute a vented cap. Of course, biting the bullet and using a 
spider & perhaps a crown makes heat not a likely problem.
Bob
 

____
Bob Duchesneau (You've got to be smarter than the gear you're working 
with.) Mountain Meadow Stained Glass, 26746 Mountain Meadow Road, 
Escondido, CA 92026 Voice (760) 749-3966 FAX (760) 749-6427
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From owner-glass Sat Nov  8 23:02:18 1997
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X-Path: seaside.net!gspicer
From: "Glenn Spicer" <gspicer@seaside.net>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: waxing
Date: Sat, 8 Nov 1997 21:14:21 -0800
Message-ID: <1997Nov8.131421.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

There has been mention at various times of waxing in finishing and I =
would like to know how others do their finishing and the products they =
have used, their pros and cons. I used to use a product by Kleenrite =
called Metalclean which had a physical quality much like saddle soap but =
was a mild metal polish combined with a light wax. It gave a nice =
highlight to a patina, kept the polish of a copper finish, and protected =
the piece from oxidation. If anyone can tell me where I can get more of =
this, if is still available, I would appreciate it.
Glenn Spicer
The Studio Metamorphoses

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From owner-glass Sat Nov  8 23:32:23 1997
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X-Path: vdot.net!shyguy
From: Gilgore Trout <shyguy@vdot.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Hopefully Helpful email tips was Re: remove
Date: Sun, 09 Nov 1997 02:19:12 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov8.211912.0>
References: <<2.2.32.19971107130427.006bba00@mail.telusplanet.net>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Dresden Slaughter House
Precedence: bulk

After getting a lot of these remove requests, I think some people masy
not understand their web software. Depending what people are using,
hitting reply doesn't lways get you where you want to go. Before you
press 'send', check the address in the outgoing mail. Netscape and
others take the last sender as  the 'reply to' address. Lorna sent this,
but when I 'reply'ed, bungi was the recipient, not Lorna, There for,
when Lorna thought she was getting off a mailing list by sending the
'rem*ve' message, to the original sender.
Another bigger issue is the way we get junk mail. There is software out
there that can, once pointed to a valid domain name, will replicate
email to ALL id's on that server. If you look at the 'To' name, most
likely it's NOT you. You have been found by a SPAM mailer. Also DO NOT
reply to any message that says you can be taken off the list. This is
another SCAM. The person who receives your mail then collects your
valid id, and sells it to marketing people. VALID ids are worth $$$$$,
and the more junk mail you reply to will create more junk mail.
Depending how technically astute you are, you can find who, and how the
mail got to you. You have to look at the detailed message headers. AND,
there is software that can 'SPOOF' the header, so you never know who
sent it. If you find a true 'FROM' address, with a valid domain name
(the part after the 'at' sign i.e. @greed.com, and you  want to combat
junk mail, forward the mail to 'root@........ Most isps frown on
spamers, and will usually boot the offender of the system.
There is anti-spam software available from -
http://www.compulink.co.uk/~net-services/spam/
daver!telusplanet.net!dwightj wrote:

>          Please remove.  Thank you.  Lorna
>
> -

'Every (person) must decide whether to walk in the light of creative
altruism or the darkness of selfishness. This is the judgement. Life's
most persistent and urgent question is "What are you doing for
others?' "Rev. Dr. Martin Luther King Jr.


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From owner-glass Sun Nov  9 01:47:55 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!Yegnim
From: Yegnim@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Exotic Animal Auction
Date: Sun, 9 Nov 1997 04:46:26 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov8.234626.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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REMOVE PLEASE.
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From owner-glass Sun Nov  9 04:44:32 1997
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X-Path: inspace.net!herba
From: "Herb Adler" <herba@inspace.net>
To: "Stained Glass" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Cement viscosity
Date: Sun, 9 Nov 1997 07:42:33 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov9.24233.0>
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I'm curious - I've read all the cement recipes but what should the
consistency be upon application. Like sour cream or like peanut butter or
somewhere in-between?
Herb Adler

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From owner-glass Sun Nov  9 05:40:34 1997
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X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: venting lamps
Date: Sun, 09 Nov 1997 08:38:38 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov9.33838.0>
References: <<199711090616.BAA19762@mime4.prodigy.com>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

BOB DUCHESNEAU wrote:
> 
> Mike wrote:
> does anyone here know if you really have to vent a lamp. i'm working
> on
> a design, that is kind of tall, 14" to maybe 20" tall at the highest
> point. the bottom will be fairly open. but i was thinking last night,
> 
> that it might need a vent put in it somewhere. but i don't know if
> it's
> that important to vent the lamp.
> 
> ---Mike Savad
> Bob thinks & writes,
>   The reason for venting a lamp is to provide a way for heat to
> escape. To much heat & the glass will crack. While many lamp bases
> call for a max of 60 watt bulbs it is a good bet that a lamp built to
> handle a 100 watt bulb is better in the hands of the public.
>   The laws of physics call for heat to rise & so a lamp shade is a
> good trap for heat unless venting at the top is provided.
>   The shape of the lamp shade, distance from the bulb, color of glass
> & no doubt several other factors make firm rules of venting hard to
> figure. To my way of thinking, the only way to know if it is
> necessary to vent a lamp is to build one & see if it survives a 100
> watt bulb when lighted in a cold room. Just tack & seal the unvented
> heat cap on & if it proves unsatisfactory it should not be to hard to
> substitute a vented cap. Of course, biting the bullet and using a
> spider & perhaps a crown makes heat not a likely problem.
> Bob
> 


now would it be important to have the vent at the very top, or close to
the top? if you could imagine a dome, with a smaller dome on the top
(like a roof). the smaller dome comes up kind of like a mushroom (it has
smaller walls around the bottom, and is sunken in). one of the locations
for the vents would be there, under the "roof" section of the dome. the
heat would rise, and have to go through about 4" to escape. i'm
wondering if that would be enough ventilation...

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
 New Pages Added: 11 New Tip Pages, Including: Random Tips, Box Making
Tips, How to Fix Scratched Glass, Getting Pictures, How to Maintain
Tools and How Long They Last, Pictures of my Lamp Lit, 1 New Project,
Shopping Lists, and See My Bio with a picture of ME.
----
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From owner-glass Sun Nov  9 08:15:42 1997
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X-Path: water.waterw.com!artglass
From: artglass@water.waterw.com (pj friend)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Cement viscosity
Date: Sun, 9 Nov 1997 11:13:48 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <199711091613.LAA17959@water.waterw.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Herb wrote,
>I'm curious - I've read all the cement recipes but what should the
>consistency be upon application. Like sour cream or like peanut butter or
>somewhere in-between?

Hi Herb......ah food products!!!!

Its Honey Herb.  And I am not being fresh.  Thats the consistency.

my best.
pj

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From owner-glass Sun Nov  9 08:28:24 1997
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X-Path: mail.island.net!seaspray
From: seaspray@mail.island.net (Carol Swann)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: waxing
Date: Sun, 9 Nov 1997 08:27:47 -0800
Message-ID: <199711091627.IAA03654@norm.island.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

>There has been mention at various times of waxing in finishing and I =
>would like to know how others do their finishing and the products they =
>have used, their pros and cons. I used to use a product by Kleenrite =
>called Metalclean which had a physical quality much like saddle soap but =
>was a mild metal polish combined with a light wax. It gave a nice =
>highlight to a patina, kept the polish of a copper finish, and protected =
>the piece from oxidation. If anyone can tell me where I can get more of =
>this, if is still available, I would appreciate it.
>Glenn Spicer
>The Studio Metamorphoses

Hey Glenn,

I don't know where to get the stuff you've been using but I switched to
Kem-o-Pro about a year ago...seems to hold a finish well and also helps
polish and bring out the shine while doing your final finishing.  Also
removes easily from the glass so you're not stuck with too much fiddle work
around the lead lines.  It's reasonably cheap by the gallon...and I provide
clients who express an interest in keeping it shiny with a small
bottle...with "compliments of..." on it :-)

Maybe talk to a company in Vancouver like A & M Non-Ferrous Metals
1-800-563-5686 and see if they have any idea where to get the polish you're
talking about.

Good luck

Carol

PS Still have the ICQ stuff in the back of my mind. :-)h

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From owner-glass Sun Nov  9 09:01:02 1997
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X-Path: flash.net!bunzie
From: Lori <bunzie@flash.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: ~~Oh ,she's got taxidermy eyes...~~
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 12:00:54 -0800
Message-ID: <1997Nov10.4054.0>
References: <<1997Oct25.14113.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi guys...
  A while back, someone posted a link to a taxidermy site that sold
eyes.  I stashed it away safely so I could visit and maybe order some
for my glass projects, but apparently I stashed a little too
well...can't find it.  Could whoever gave the URL send it again?  Thanx
a ton!

~Lor
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From owner-glass Sun Nov  9 09:25:14 1997
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X-Path: seaside.net!gspicer
From: "Glenn Spicer" <gspicer@seaside.net>
To: "'Glass@bungi.com'" <Glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Subject: Venting
Date: Sun, 9 Nov 1997 09:18:24 -0800
Message-ID: <1997Nov9.11824.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Mike wrote
does anyone here know if you really have to vent a lamp. I'm working on =
a design, that is kind of tall, 14" to maybe 20" tall at the highest =
point. the bottom will be fairly open. but I was thinking last night, =
that it might need a vent put in it somewhere. but I don't know if it's =
that important to vent the lamp.
---Mike Saved

Mike,=20
Venting of a lamp depends on the wattage, the angle of the lamp panels, =
the type of bulb, the size of the shade and the proximity of the bulb to =
the shade.
Wattage - there higher the wattage (in the same type of bulb) the more =
heat is produced and the greater the need for auxiliary venting at the =
top.
Angle of panels - The steeper the and longer the panels are, the more =
heat will be built up in the inside of the shade.
Type of bulb - a florescent bulb will produce less heat than an =
incandescent bulb, which produces less heat than a halide bulb.
Size of shade - a large open shade will withstand more heat buildup than =
a small closed in shade.
Proximity of the  bulb to the shade  - the closer the bulb is physically =
to the shade the greater the localized heat buildup will be on the =
shade.

One must look at these as they relate to each other, the greater number =
of options that lead to heat buildup, the greater need for more top =
venting. If the shade gets too hot to put your hand on I would consider =
lowering the wattage, changing the type of bulb, and/or increasing =
venting etc. You never said what the type of bulb was or the wattage so =
I will leave this for you to ponder and hope that I was some help.
And by the way of an aside did you ever get the Email I sent you some =
time ago direct re our commonalties?

Glenn Spicer
The Studio Metamorphoses
=00
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From owner-glass Sun Nov  9 10:19:36 1997
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From: "Glenn Spicer" <gspicer@seaside.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: venting mushrooms
Date: Sun, 9 Nov 1997 10:13:33 -0800
Message-ID: <19971109101313.050b2ba0.in@seaside.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Mike wrote
now would it be important to have the vent at the very top, or close to the
top? if you could imagine a dome, with a smaller dome on the top (like a
roof). the smaller dome comes up kind of like a mushroom (it has smaller
walls around the bottom, and is sunken in). one of the locations for the
vents would be there, under the "roof" section of the dome. the heat would
rise, and have to go through about 4" to escape. i'm wondering if that
would be enough ventilation...
---Mike Savad

Mike
	If you imagine a cross section of your lamp and draw arrows that indicate
the path that the heat will take from the source, the venting is best if it
is above the top of the bulb, an the further to the top of the shade , the
better. But the most important facto is the air flow because this brings
the cool air from the opening of the shade to displace the hotter air above
it. If the vents are not large enough and/or numerous enough then heat will
start to build up. The more the heat builds up the faster the air will flow
through the vent holes until it reaches an equilibrium with the "pressure"
of the rising air vs. the resistance of the size of the vent. In more
direct response to this specific lamp, The vents in the location where you
suggested should be fine if they are large enough and numerous enough. How
many and how large? That depends on the wattage of the bulb and other
factors that I mentioned in my previous letter (that I had thot been sent a
day or more ago, but found had not been sent, and so will be just ahead of
this one). So in the end, if the top of the lamp gets too hot to touch,
then increase the venting or reduce the wattage.

Glenn Spicer
The Studio Metamorphoses

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From owner-glass Sun Nov  9 11:28:41 1997
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X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Venting
Date: Sun, 09 Nov 1997 14:26:43 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov9.92643.0>
References: <<1997Nov9.11824.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Glenn Spicer wrote:
> 
> Mike wrote
> does anyone here know if you really have to vent a lamp. I'm working on =
> a design, that is kind of tall, 14" to maybe 20" tall at the highest =
> point. the bottom will be fairly open. but I was thinking last night, =
> that it might need a vent put in it somewhere. but I don't know if it's =
> that important to vent the lamp.
> ---Mike Saved
> 
> Mike,=20
> Venting of a lamp depends on the wattage, the angle of the lamp panels, =
> the type of bulb, the size of the shade and the proximity of the bulb to =
> the shade.
> Wattage - there higher the wattage (in the same type of bulb) the more =
> heat is produced and the greater the need for auxiliary venting at the =
> top.
> Angle of panels - The steeper the and longer the panels are, the more =
> heat will be built up in the inside of the shade.
> Type of bulb - a florescent bulb will produce less heat than an =
> incandescent bulb, which produces less heat than a halide bulb.
> Size of shade - a large open shade will withstand more heat buildup than =
> a small closed in shade.
> Proximity of the  bulb to the shade  - the closer the bulb is physically =
> to the shade the greater the localized heat buildup will be on the =
> shade.
> 
> One must look at these as they relate to each other, the greater number =
> of options that lead to heat buildup, the greater need for more top =
> venting. If the shade gets too hot to put your hand on I would consider =
> lowering the wattage, changing the type of bulb, and/or increasing =
> venting etc. You never said what the type of bulb was or the wattage so =
> I will leave this for you to ponder and hope that I was some help.
> And by the way of an aside did you ever get the Email I sent you some =
> time ago direct re our commonalties?
> 
> Glenn Spicer
> The Studio Metamorphoses
> =00
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


i really hav'nt decided on the bulbs. i know that there will be 2 i
think in a globe type shape, i guess about 3" in diameter. i hav'nt
decided on wattage, but it would'nt be greater than 60w each, maybe 40w.
the shape of the lamp will ultimitly look like a half of a globe. but
since i don't know the details myself yet, i really could say more.

if the email your refereing to was about ICQ. i did get it, and an
trying to install it. but when i got up to the registering part, it said
it could'nt do it and i would have to check the firewall settings. the
problem is, is that it did'nt install it right and i can't get to those
settings. 

eventually i go on. currently i'm trying to get my page uploaded, and
out of a matter of coincedence, geocities moved to a new server in the
middle of my upload. and now it won't let me upload anything at this
time. so now some of the pages have the right graphics and buttons. and
the others have the new stuff... it's all rather annoying...

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
 New Pages Added: 11 New Tip Pages, Including: Random Tips, Box Making
Tips, How to Fix Scratched Glass, Getting Pictures, How to Maintain
Tools and How Long They Last, Pictures of my Lamp Lit, 1 New Project,
Shopping Lists, and See My Bio with a picture of ME.
----
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From owner-glass Sun Nov  9 11:35:05 1997
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: venting mushrooms
Date: Sun, 09 Nov 1997 14:33:17 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov9.93317.0>
References: <<19971109101313.050b2ba0.in@seaside.net>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Glenn Spicer wrote:
> 
> Mike wrote
> now would it be important to have the vent at the very top, or close to the
> top? if you could imagine a dome, with a smaller dome on the top (like a
> roof). the smaller dome comes up kind of like a mushroom (it has smaller
> walls around the bottom, and is sunken in). one of the locations for the
> vents would be there, under the "roof" section of the dome. the heat would
> rise, and have to go through about 4" to escape. i'm wondering if that
> would be enough ventilation...
> ---Mike Savad
> 
> Mike
>         If you imagine a cross section of your lamp and draw arrows that indicate
> the path that the heat will take from the source, the venting is best if it
> is above the top of the bulb, an the further to the top of the shade , the
> better. But the most important facto is the air flow because this brings
> the cool air from the opening of the shade to displace the hotter air above
> it. If the vents are not large enough and/or numerous enough then heat will
> start to build up. The more the heat builds up the faster the air will flow
> through the vent holes until it reaches an equilibrium with the "pressure"
> of the rising air vs. the resistance of the size of the vent. In more
> direct response to this specific lamp, The vents in the location where you
> suggested should be fine if they are large enough and numerous enough. How
> many and how large? That depends on the wattage of the bulb and other
> factors that I mentioned in my previous letter (that I had thot been sent a
> day or more ago, but found had not been sent, and so will be just ahead of
> this one). So in the end, if the top of the lamp gets too hot to touch,
> then increase the venting or reduce the wattage.
> 
> Glenn Spicer
> The Studio Metamorphoses
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


i figure the spacing from the top of the bulb to the top of the lamp
shade will be between 6-8" (just a guess). however the vent would be
about 3-4" below that.

the mini roof on the shade will be something like a cupola (sp?) on a
gazebo. the vents would be in the eve's. the shade portion of the lamp
will look like a building. the upper roof dome thing, will look like it
has a veranda with rails and pillars. 

what i'm designing in my head now is: do i put vents in the eve's of the
small roof? or (along with that), add some sort of "natural" holes in
the top, using glass. i'm hoping at the very top that i can make a
polished glass oblisk shaped piece of glass. if done right it should
light up like a beacon.

if your wondering, this lamps main theme is going to be that it has no
center support. the base will provide proof that there is'nt a center
support. so basically i'm re-engineering the lamp...

---Mike Savad
 
-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
 New Pages Added: 11 New Tip Pages, Including: Random Tips, Box Making
Tips, How to Fix Scratched Glass, Getting Pictures, How to Maintain
Tools and How Long They Last, Pictures of my Lamp Lit, 1 New Project,
Shopping Lists, and See My Bio with a picture of ME.
----
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From owner-glass Sun Nov  9 16:11:02 1997
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X-Path: ix.netcom.com!pstark
From: pstark@ix.netcom.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Exotic Animal Auction
Date: Sun, 09 Nov 1997 19:03:15 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov9.14315.0>
References: <<m0xUAsj-0000IoC@daver.bungi.com>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

mail@exoticauctions.com wrote:
> 
> Visit http://www.exoticauctions.com to visit a whole new angle on the exotic animal market.
> 
> If you have any animals or animal related products that you would like to sell...
> or if you would like to aquire animals or animal related products... of any size or type,
> just visit http://www.exoticauctions.com.   Exotic Auctions is an Auction House for
> DOMESTIC and EXOTIC animals.
> 
> ///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
> If you wish to be removed from this advertiser's future mailings, please reply
> with the subject "Remove" and this software will automatically block you
> from their future mailings.
> ////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
remove
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From owner-glass Sun Nov  9 16:39:45 1997
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X-Path: compuserve.com!GreerStudios
From: "Michael J. Greer" <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: "INTERNET:glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Cement viscosity
Date: Sun, 9 Nov 1997 19:38:44 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov9.143844.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Consistency of the cement should be
like thick, gooey oil sludge, Herb.  In
fact, it looks more like a by-product
of the petroleum industry than something
you would want to glop on that beautiful
stained glass window! ;-)

Best regards,

Dani Greer
Greer Gallery & Studios
http://eme.usa.net/greerstudios/
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From owner-glass Sun Nov  9 17:47:32 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!LEE1W
From: LEE1W@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Art history of our Church Windows
Date: Sun, 9 Nov 1997 20:45:35 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov9.154535.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Our church will celebrate its 75th anniversary beginning in June of l998, and
we are writing a church history.  We are blessed with stained glass windows
with  Christian symbols and the names of the givers.  Some kind of black
paint has been used to draw on the glass providing images of Christian
symbols, and shading each piece of glass, giving value to the work.  The
church cornerstone reads 1925.  I am trying to find  biographical resources
of people or who can help me understand the art history style, and perhaps
the name of the studio.  Some where in church records we ought to be able to
learn more about these early members of our congregation.  The research I
uncover will be included in an article on the windows for our church history.
 Can you or anyone you know provide a reference on church stained glass
history, or can you recommend a library with a good collection, particularly
in the Delaware Valley.  
----
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From owner-glass Mon Nov 10 05:48:48 1997
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X-Path: sgi.net!mindwarp
From: mindwarp <mindwarp@sgi.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: ~~Oh ,she's got taxidermy eyes...~~
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 08:40:40 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov10.34040.0>
References: <<1997Nov10.4054.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Lori wrote:
> 
> Hi guys...
>   A while back, someone posted a link to a taxidermy site that sold
> eyes.  I stashed it away safely so I could visit and maybe order some
> for my glass projects, but apparently I stashed a little too
> well...can't find it.  Could whoever gave the URL send it again?  Thanx
> a ton!
> 
> ~Lor

Here is the address for the taxidermy supply page......

http://www.taxidermy.net/suppliers/web.html

I received catalogs from a couple of these companies... They have some
REALLY neat glass eyes available....however, owl eyes(in which I am
looking for) don't seem to be in their inventory.  

Sandi
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From owner-glass Mon Nov 10 05:49:23 1997
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From: Rosemary Holmstrom <rholmstr@daemen.edu>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Subject: Re: Exotic Animal Auction -- Remove
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 08:49:09 -0400
Message-ID: <l03010d03b08cb33b0297@[205.232.33.29]>
References: <<m0xUAsj-0000IoC@daver.bungi.com>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

>Visit http://www.exoticauctions.com to visit a whole new angle on the
>exotic animal market.
>
>If you have any animals or animal related products that you would like to
>sell...=DD
>or if you would like to aquire animals or animal related products... of
>any size or type,
>just visit http://www.exoticauctions.com.=DD=DD Exotic Auctions is an Aucti=
on
>House for
>DOMESTIC and EXOTIC animals.
>=DD
>///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////=
////
>If you wish to be removed from this advertiser's future mailings, please
>reply
>with the subject "Remove" and this software will automatically block you
>from their future mailings.
>///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////=
////
>/
>
>----
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From owner-glass Mon Nov 10 05:57:57 1997
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X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: "INTERNET:glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Art history of our Church Windows
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 08:56:57 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov10.35657.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

LEE1 wrote about researching church window history for
churches in the Delaware Valley.  The is a good probability
that the windows were done by Willet Studios in Philadelphia.
They are still in business (in fact, are very successful).  Look
all around the windows and try to find a signature piece of
glass or a brass engraving which states the studio name.
This is frequently done.  In Willet windows, their signature
tends to be painted/fired onto a thin strip of red or bright
cobalt blue glass worked into the border of one of the pieces.

If you do find the name somewhere, post a message and I'll
see if I know who they are.

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
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From owner-glass Mon Nov 10 06:07:31 1997
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X-Path: computer.net!alewis
From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@computer.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Art history of our Church Windows
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@computer.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 09:14:45 +0000
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> From:          LEE1W@aol.com
> To:            glass@bungi.com
> Subject:       Art history of our Church Windows
> Date:          Sun, 9 Nov 1997 20:45:35 -0500 (EST)
> Reply-to:      glass@bungi.com

> Our church will celebrate its 75th anniversary beginning in June of l998, and
> we are writing a church history.  We are blessed with stained glass windows
> with  Christian symbols and the names of the givers.  Some kind of black
> paint has been used to draw on the glass 

That's the usual method for delineating stained glass. The "paint" 
is fired into the surface of the glass and it's glass itself, 
actually. As for historical sources, you might contact Julie L. Sloan 
of McKernan Satterlee Associates at jlsloan@vgernet.net (that's her 
email address). She wrote the book on the restoration (and history) 
of American stained glass, so should be able to point you in the 
right direction.

Albert

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From owner-glass Mon Nov 10 06:24:55 1997
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X-Path: water.waterw.com!artglass
From: artglass@water.waterw.com (pj friend)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Art history of our Church Windows
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 09:24:21 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <199711101424.JAA25278@water.waterw.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Lee wrote,

>Our church will celebrate its 75th anniversary beginning in June of l998, and
>we are writing a church history.  We are blessed with stained glass windows
>with  Christian symbols and the names of the givers.  Some kind of black
>paint has been used to draw on the glass providing images of Christian
>symbols, and shading each piece of glass, giving value to the work.  The
>church cornerstone reads 1925.  I am trying to find  biographical resources
>of people or who can help me understand the art history style, and perhaps
>the name of the studio.  Some where in church records we ought to be able to
>learn more about these early members of our congregation.  The research I
>uncover will be included in an article on the windows for our church history.
> Can you or anyone you know provide a reference on church stained glass
>history, or can you recommend a library with a good collection, particularly
>in the Delaware Valley.  
>----
If you let me know the name and location of the church.  I may to be able to
help you locate the studio who fabricated the windows.

my best,
pj>

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From owner-glass Mon Nov 10 06:38:47 1997
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From: Margaret41@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Pewter sculptures
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 09:38:14 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov10.43814.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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dont know if you received any help yet, but check warner-criveliaro in
allentown, pa - 1-800-523-4242. they seem to have everything.
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From owner-glass Mon Nov 10 06:41:40 1997
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From: mike peck <summit-stained-glass@worldnet.att.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="------------59753F0333DF"
Subject: Re: Art history of our Church Windows
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 08:43:22 -0600
Message-ID: <1997Nov10.24322.0>
References: <<1997Nov9.154535.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Summit Stained Glass
Precedence: bulk

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

--------------59753F0333DF
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
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>  Can you or anyone you know provide a reference on church stained glass
> history, or can you recommend a library with a good collection, particularly
> in the Delaware Valley.


I recently had to research some work for a restoration job and was
connected to Julie Sloan (via Albert Lewis).  Julie was INCREDIBLY
helpful and knowledgable.  She can be contacted at
http://www.jlsloan.com/

BTW-  This is a totally unsolicited comment ....... her book,
Conservation Of Stained Glass, is well worth the $25.  Also available
through Amazon (go the IGGA website for more details).


Mike Peck
Summit Stained Glass

--------------59753F0333DF
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<BASE HREF="http://www.jlsloan.com/">

<HTML>
<HEAD>
<TITLE>McKernan Satterlee Associates, Inc. | Stained Glass Restoration & Conservation</TITLE>
<META name="description" content="McKernan Satterlee Associates and its principal, Julie L. Sloan, have extensive experience with stained glass in buildings of all kinds: private homes to museum collections, churches to statehouses.">
<META name="keywords" content="stained glass, stained glass, stained glass, stained glass, stained glass, stained glass, church, church, church, church, church, church, restoration, restoration, restoration, restoration, restoration, restoration, conservation, conservation, conservation, conservation, conservation, conservation, preservation, preservation, preservation, preservation, preservation, preservation, repair, repair, repair, repair, repair, repair, Frank Lloyd Wright, Frank Lloyd Wright, Frank Lloyd Wright, Frank Lloyd Wright, Frank Lloyd Wright, Frank Lloyd Wright, John La Farge, John La Farge, John La Farge, John La Farge, John La Farge, John La Farge">
</HEAD>
<BODY BGCOLOR="#FFFFFF">
<img align=left src="msalion.gif" width=75 height=75 alt="MSA logo"><p>
<font size="-1">McKernan Satterlee Associates, Inc.<BR>
Consultants in Stained Glass Conservation & Project Managers<BR>
P.O. Box 480, North Adams, Mass. 01247-0480 <br>
(413) 664-2085 Fax: (413) 664-6570 - <a href="mailto:stglst@aol.com">e-mail</a>: stglst@aol.com<br>
<img align=left vspace=5 width=400 src="blueline.gif"><br><br>

<p align=left><strong>Julie L. Sloan, President </p>
</font></strong><p>
<table border=0 width=500 cellpadding=5 cellspacing=5>
<tr valign=top><td>
<center><a href="edu.htm">Education</a> | <a href="grants.htm">Grants & Awards</a> | <a href="prof.htm">Professional Affiliations</a><br>
<a href="proj.htm">Projects</a> | <a href="consult.htm">Consultations</a> | <a href="churches.htm">Churches</a> | <a href="other.htm">Other Buildings</a><br>
<a href="pubs.htm">Publications</a> | <a href="books.htm">Books</a> | <a href="articles.htm">Articles</a> | <a href="lectures.htm">Lectures</a> <br>
<br>
<a href="care.htm"><i>The Care, Restoration and Conservation <br>
of American Stained Glass Windows</a></p>
<p>
<a href="ownerman.htm">Owner's Manual of Stained Glass Conservation </i></a><br>
<font size="-2">A free guide to the restoration and repair of stained glass windows. 
<hr size 4 width=200 height=200>
<font size="0">F.U.L.L.Y...I.N.S.U.R.E.D <br>
N.E.W...Y.O.R.K...S.T.A.T.E...C.E.R.T.I.F.I.E.D...W.O.M.A.N.-.O.W.N.E.D...B.U.S.I.N.E.S.S


<hr width=88 height=22>
Designed and maintained by <a href="http://www.alldesigncom.com">Albert Lewis</a></font></center></p>
</td></tr></table>
</BODY>
</HTML>

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From owner-glass Mon Nov 10 06:52:06 1997
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X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: My page is finally updated!!!
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 09:50:13 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov10.45013.0>
References: <<1997Nov10.34040.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

i finally got all my new pages up. 

How to set up a shop. 

over 40 new links

and, My adventures with the aliens. if you like sci-fi, i think you'll
like this. the story may not be the strongest, but you really have to
see the pictures. (which i made myself of course.)

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
 New Pages Added: Over 40 new stained glass links, Tips: How To Set Up A
Shop, and My adventures with the Aliens.
----
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From owner-glass Mon Nov 10 07:28:00 1997
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From: Tiffany Allesina <TIFFANYA@Attachmate.com>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
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Subject: remove
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 07:22:12 -0800
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-----Original Message-----
From:	mail@exoticauctions.com [SMTP:mail@exoticauctions.com]
Sent:	Saturday, November 08, 1997 5:35 AM
To:	mail@exoticauctions.com
Subject:	Exotic Animal Auction

Visit http://www.exoticauctions.com to visit a whole new angle on the 
exotic animal market.

If you have any animals or animal related products that you would like 
to sell...
or if you would like to aquire animals or animal related products... 
of any size or type,
just visit http://www.exoticauctions.com.   Exotic Auctions is an 
Auction House for
DOMESTIC and EXOTIC animals.

///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////  
////////
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please reply
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you
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From owner-glass Mon Nov 10 08:34:13 1997
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From: "L. Spangler" <lynice@ideal.jf.intel.com>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: remove
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 08:30:23 -0000
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On Saturday, November 08, 1997 1:35 PM, mail@exoticauctions.com [SMTP:mail@exoticauctions.com] wrote:
> Visit http://www.exoticauctions.com to visit a whole new angle on the exotic animal market.
> 
> If you have any animals or animal related products that you would like to sell... 
> or if you would like to aquire animals or animal related products... of any size or type,
> just visit http://www.exoticauctions.com.   Exotic Auctions is an Auction House for
> DOMESTIC and EXOTIC animals.
>  
> ///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
> If you wish to be removed from this advertiser's future mailings, please reply 
> with the subject "Remove" and this software will automatically block you 
> from their future mailings.
> ////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
> 
> ----
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> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> 
----
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From owner-glass Mon Nov 10 13:49:08 1997
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X-Path: matnet.com!rogert
From: "Tyler, Roger D." <rogert@matnet.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: My page is finally updated!!!
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 08:58:57 -0800
Message-ID: <1.5.4.32.19971110165857.00677598@primary.matnet.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Mike, visited you updated site yesterday and read your Adventures With The Aliens. Great! You have a natural gift for fantasy. Enjoyed the brevity of each page as well as the graphics, which are great.  Only problem we experienced was with the graphics.  Some pages were great, others did not download, and a couple loaded only half the picture and the bottom half was all green (or whatever). All-in-all, only about 55-60% of the pictures loaded (we use Explorer). Could not get to the links, but then you had warned that Geocities was changing, so will try again today. Especially like the addition of the update notification service/page.
Rojean
rogert@matnet.com
-------------------------


At 09:50 AM 11/10/97 -0500, you wrote:
>i finally got all my new pages up. 
>
>How to set up a shop. 
>
>over 40 new links
>
>and, My adventures with the aliens. if you like sci-fi, i think you'll
>like this. the story may not be the strongest, but you really have to
>see the pictures. (which i made myself of course.)
>
>---Mike Savad
>
>-- 
>Mike's Stained Glass
>http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
> New Pages Added: Over 40 new stained glass links, Tips: How To Set Up A
>Shop, and My adventures with the Aliens.
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
----
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From owner-glass Mon Nov 10 14:32:53 1997
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	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #8 built 1997-Jun-19)
X-Path: computer.net!alewis
From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@computer.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Swedish Glass
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@computer.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 17:39:36 +0000
Message-ID: <199711102232.RAA26268@ns.computer.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

> From:          "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
> To:            glass@bungi.com
> Subject:       Swedish Glass
> Date:          Sun, 9 Nov 1997 03:21:25 +0000
> Reply-to:      glass@bungi.com

> Dear Albert,
> 
> I bet you sat there going teehee and fully expected me to creep out 
> from the woodwork again.....
> Being totally dependable - but NEVER predictable.... here I am!

Oh, I've seen you commenting from time to time on stuff going on in 
the bungi forum. <g> I knew you were around, but busy, so it's doubly 
nice to hear from you directly.

Glad you liked the post about the Orrefors tour. I don't know the 
people who are putting it together, but since my wife and I are 
connected to the tour in England next year (so far, not much 
response) I was interested to see how much less the Swedish tour was 
costing in comparison to what the tour organizer had put together for 
England! Over 4 thousand dollars, not including airfare, for England; 
just over 3 thousand but *with airfare for the Swedish thing. Hmm.

> on the site you gave on Orrefors and found it titillating in its 
> brevity and mouth-watering in its prospects. 

Loved your long response to the post. Can we consider it for the 
newsletter? I think you turned down an "opportunity" before, so I'll 
understand if you still feel that way, but it certainly was fun to 
read, especially the bit where you say what "Orrefors" means. <s>

> By the way, Albert, you don't happen to know the SWEDISH web-address 
> for any of these three??

Not offhand. I'd have to do a search for them. Time being as short as 
it is, I can't do that, but if you turn them up, I'd certainly be 
interested in taking a quick peek at them.

Albert

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From owner-glass Mon Nov 10 14:38:45 1997
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From: "L. Spangler" <lynice@ideal.jf.intel.com>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: remove
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 08:30:23 -0000
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Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk



On Saturday, November 08, 1997 1:35 PM, mail@exoticauctions.com [SMTP:mail@exoticauctions.com] wrote:
> Visit http://www.exoticauctions.com to visit a whole new angle on the exotic animal market.
> 
> If you have any animals or animal related products that you would like to sell... 
> or if you would like to aquire animals or animal related products... of any size or type,
> just visit http://www.exoticauctions.com.   Exotic Auctions is an Auction House for
> DOMESTIC and EXOTIC animals.
>  
> ///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
> If you wish to be removed from this advertiser's future mailings, please reply 
> with the subject "Remove" and this software will automatically block you 
> from their future mailings.
> ////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> 
----
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From owner-glass Mon Nov 10 14:39:08 1997
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X-Path: juno.com!jroey
From: jroey@juno.com (Jerri M Roey)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: inside curves
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 17:27:54 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov10.122754.0>
References: <<1997Nov10.4054.0>>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi all,

	A friend wants me to make her a frog suncatcher as a gift for her
mom.  I found two great patterns on Spectrum's site, but they have some
bad curves on the feet (tree frogs).  One of them would have to be done
with a saw or else change the curves so they're not so deep. When I have
a piece with a bad curve, I usually start my foiling at that spot and can
manage to keep from splitting.  In other cases, I've gone back and
patched the splits with foil before soldering.  In this case, one foot is
one piece and has three deep curves.  Does anyone have any suggestions? 
The worst of these patterns has 11 pretty bad curves.  I have a feeling
that's the one my friend will want. 

Thanks,

Jerri

 
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From owner-glass Mon Nov 10 14:40:22 1997
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X-Path: crcwnet.com!dandl
From: David Loda <dandl@crcwnet.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="------------BF150C177D8CDD1CA8BEB4C4"
Subject: [Fwd: Photo Resist]
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 14:46:41 -0800
Message-ID: <1997Nov10.64641.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Art Glass of Wenatchee
Precedence: bulk

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--------------BF150C177D8CDD1CA8BEB4C4
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit



--------------BF150C177D8CDD1CA8BEB4C4
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Content-Disposition: inline

Message-ID: <3467598A.5CF7C7@crcwnet.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 10:59:22 -0800
From: David Loda <dandl@crcwnet.com>
Reply-To: dandl@crcwnet.com
Organization: Art Glass of Wenatchee
X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.02 [en]C-DIAL  (Win95; U)
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: Glass@bungi.com
Subject: Photo Resist
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

I'm in the process of getting a sandblasting unit and I need imput on
the UV Letralite kits available thru both Rayzist and Photobrasive.
Anyone out there have any working knowledge with them?  Since they are a
10th of the price of the full size exposing equipment are they a 10th of
the worth.  If you wish to take this off line, you can email me at
dandl@crcwnet.com

thanks in advance

Dave


--------------BF150C177D8CDD1CA8BEB4C4--

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From owner-glass Mon Nov 10 15:41:53 1997
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X-Path: computer.net!alewis
From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@computer.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Art history of our Church Windows
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@computer.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 18:48:37 +0000
Message-ID: <199711102341.SAA28459@ns.computer.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


> I recently had to research some work for a restoration job and was
> connected to Julie Sloan (via Albert Lewis).  Julie was INCREDIBLY
> helpful and knowledgable.  She can be contacted at
> http://www.jlsloan.com/

Glad my tip paid off for you, Mike.

> BTW-  This is a totally unsolicited comment ....... her book,
> Conservation Of Stained Glass, is well worth the $25.  Also available
> through Amazon (go the IGGA website for more details).

Of course, it's also available from the publisher (and they like you 
to order it from them directly, naturally, because then they 
don't have to pay a discount to anyone). <g>  Art in Architecture 
Press is at http://www.aiap.com/

Albert

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From owner-glass Mon Nov 10 15:44:52 1997
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	for rglass-42; Mon, 10 Nov 1997 15:43:07 -0800 (PST)
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X-Path: computer.net!alewis
From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@computer.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Oops! Apologies.
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@computer.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 18:50:57 +0000
Message-ID: <199711102343.SAA28520@ns.computer.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Sorry ... thought that note to Toby was from her directly, rather 
than from the group. Thought I checked, but obviously not. My 
apologies.

Albert

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From owner-glass Mon Nov 10 15:56:54 1997
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X-Path: pobox.alaska.net!wildewk
From: Wildeworks <wildewk@pobox.alaska.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: [Fwd: Photo Resist]
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 14:54:13 -0900
Message-ID: <1997Nov10.55413.0>
References: <<1997Nov10.64641.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

David;
    We use a Letralite uv unit with our Paragrave Sandblaster. We hsve had this unit for 2 yrs now and had no trouble with it
.It works great for small things, but anything over 11 by 14 would have to done on a bigger light. We use paragrave resist
with it.
  Hope this helps.

    Wildeworks
    Designs in Glass
    www.alaska.net/~rsully/
    wildewk@pobox.alaska.net

David Loda wrote:

>                                                   ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Subject: Photo Resist
> Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 10:59:22 -0800
> From: David Loda <dandl@crcwnet.com>
> Organization: Art Glass of Wenatchee
> To: Glass@bungi.com
>
> I'm in the process of getting a sandblasting unit and I need imput on
> the UV Letralite kits available thru both Rayzist and Photobrasive.
> Anyone out there have any working knowledge with them?  Since they are a
> 10th of the price of the full size exposing equipment are they a 10th of
> the worth.  If you wish to take this off line, you can email me at
> dandl@crcwnet.com
>
> thanks in advance
>
> Dave



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From owner-glass Mon Nov 10 16:02:56 1997
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X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: My page is finally updated!!!
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 18:59:28 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov10.135928.0>
References: <<1.5.4.32.19971110165857.00677598@primary.matnet.com>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Tyler, Roger D. wrote:
> 
> Mike, visited you updated site yesterday and read your Adventures With The Aliens. Great! You have a natural gift for fantasy. Enjoyed the brevity of each page as well as the graphics, which are great.  Only problem we experienced was with the graphics.  Some pages were great, others did not download, and a couple loaded only half the picture and the bottom half was all green (or whatever). All-in-all, only about 55-60% of the pictures loaded (we use Explorer). Could not get to the links, but th
> Rojean
> rogert@matnet.com
> -------------------------
> 
> At 09:50 AM 11/10/97 -0500, you wrote:
> >i finally got all my new pages up.
> >
> >How to set up a shop.
> >
> >over 40 new links
> >
> >and, My adventures with the aliens. if you like sci-fi, i think you'll
> >like this. the story may not be the strongest, but you really have to
> >see the pictures. (which i made myself of course.)
> >
> >---Mike Savad
> >
> >--
> >Mike's Stained Glass
> >http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
> > New Pages Added: Over 40 new stained glass links, Tips: How To Set Up A
> >Shop, and My adventures with the Aliens.
> >----
> >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> >To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> >
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


yeah geocities is having some problems. sometimes pages won't load, some
graphics will be broken, etc. i found (for now anyway), if you reload
the page it will be ok. last night and this morning, i spent a few hours
going over everything, to fix stuff. mainly because, i think i corrupted
some files when i first tried uploading. it's was just just remarably
bad timing. i started uploading, just as they were shutting down. at
first i thought this was related to me in someway. but everything seems
to be running more or less ok.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
 New Pages Added: Over 40 new stained glass links, Tips: How To Set Up A
Shop, and My adventures with the Aliens.
----
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From owner-glass Mon Nov 10 16:13:51 1997
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: inside curves
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 19:10:18 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov10.141018.0>
References: <<1997Nov10.122754.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Jerri M Roey wrote:
> 
> Hi all,
> 
>         A friend wants me to make her a frog suncatcher as a gift for her
> mom.  I found two great patterns on Spectrum's site, but they have some
> bad curves on the feet (tree frogs).  One of them would have to be done
> with a saw or else change the curves so they're not so deep. When I have
> a piece with a bad curve, I usually start my foiling at that spot and can
> manage to keep from splitting.  In other cases, I've gone back and
> patched the splits with foil before soldering.  In this case, one foot is
> one piece and has three deep curves.  Does anyone have any suggestions?
> The worst of these patterns has 11 pretty bad curves.  I have a feeling
> that's the one my friend will want.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Jerri
> 
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


you could always break up the curves. in the center of each curve, cut
it in half, it would have broken there anyway. after awhile you'll get
better at doing curves. for now though, make 2 pieces instead of 1.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
 New Pages Added: Over 40 new stained glass links, Tips: How To Set Up A
Shop, and My adventures with the Aliens.
----
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From owner-glass Mon Nov 10 16:25:02 1997
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Re: Swedish Glass
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@mail.nildram.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 01:22:24 +0000
Message-ID: <199711110023.AAA13205@pluto.nildram.co.uk>
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Dear Albert,
Am so glad you have not totally forgotten me..... ;-)
Yes, it's true - I am busy - keeping one step ahead of the Bank 
Manager......

Oh, I've seen you commenting from time to time on stuff going on in 
the bungi forum. <g> I knew you were around, but busy, so it's doubly 
nice to hear from you directly.

Does the following quote from you mean that you two will come over 
here??? If you are, I would never, ever forgive you if  you you 
passed within a 100 miles of me without giving me the opportunity to 
cook you both a Swedish meal. .....
Another thing is, I am trying to work out a plan whereby myself and 
some of my students could "hop-on-board" the party, once you are over 
here. There would be quite a respectful little handful that would be 
very interested...... Mind you,  neither them nor I could possibly 
conceive to spend USD4,000 for joining up.  And again, I also wonder 
whether along similar lines, this could be of interest to Elizabeth 
in Bournemouth (UK) and HER students.   ???? What a wonderful 
opportunity for "Across The Pond  Fertilization" ... and all that....
(Elizabeth [with a ZZed] - are you there??) I also have quite a 
little handful of requests from you bunch in USA to repeat the 
Chartres trip in France. We are working on it!  It WILL happen again! 
We are also planning other trips to Europe, e.g. Augsburg in Germany. 
I also welcome ideas from you "Across the Pond". My own aim is to 
organize such trips that really are affordable and without costly 
and unnecessary "frills", yet comfortable and cosy.
In Judith Robinson I have a wonderful champion for this 
cross-atlantic venture. She is American and both her daughters are 
living and working in USA. She is a bubbly little fire-ball; Adult 
Education Manager and the Deputy Principal of one of the colleges 
where I teach stained glass. She went out on a limb to get support 
for the trip to Chartres . She managed to get quite a lot of 
financial  backing from the local government education authority
so that the trip succeeded to become a reality - and.... I might add, 
a total success. And - of course - the people from USA, from Bungi 
that came to stay with me as my guests have become my friends for 
Life. (Including the ONE who missed the flight!!!) If you are in 
favour of me (and Judith) to continue to try and get more trips like 
this one off the ground, up and running do let me know. But just as 
important let JUDITH know; she is on e-mail too: Her e-mail address 
is:


 Glad you liked the post about the Orrefors tour. I 
don't know the people who are putting it together, but since my wife 
and I are connected to the tour in England next year (so far, not 
much response)

No, the difference in cost doesn't entirely surprise me. To start 
with, accommodation in UK is  horrendeously expensive. The proposed 
trip includes a number of town/city centres and a lot of the money 
you pay out for is a pair of sheets, a space for the night and a bed. 
Hotel-costs in UK  are pretty high. Don't forget, UK is a small, much 
over-crowded little island with about 60 million inhabitants. Sweden 
- geographically- is twice the size of Great Britain and Northern 
Ireland put together and has a population of 8 million (small but 
select....;-)  )   Space is no problem, hence hotels are cheaper.. 
Sweden (again geographically speaking) is the 3rd largest country in 
Europe. Not only that, but I also suspect that Orrefors is itself 
sponsoring this trip to some extent and there may even be some 
government money involved. Glass is big business in Sweden - not so 
(anymore) in UK. Hartley-Wood by the way has just ceased to exist in 
UK. It went bankrupt about 2 weeks ago..... Enormously sad.... For UK 
stained glass production a total tragedy.....

 I was interested to see how much less the Swedish tour was costing 
in comparison to what the tour organizer had put together for 
England! Over 4 thousand dollars, not including airfare, for England; 
just over 3 thousand but *with airfare for the Swedish thing. Hmm.

Hang on a minute, when did I ever "turn down an opportunity", as you 
put it??? I am totally nonplussed.... Feel free - and if of any value 
- feel free to use in print -. I would obviously appreciate a 
"credit" and also a hard-copy of the issue in which my words 
appear.... but other than that , you are most welcome. Melanie in 
Australia has just asked me if she could use my posting about "how to 
select a stained glass teacher", to which I responded - but yes - of 
course, if she feels I have made a good and relevant point worth 
wider circulation..
I think I have established a reputarion as being a bit of a 
missionary; sure,  I want to make a living creating stained glass as 
I see it and interpret it, but I also want to teach, to promote 
awareness of stained glass. I have no fear of passing on what I know 
and I also have no fear of admitting that I am inexperienced in any 
one particular aspect of stained glass, but so-and-so might be able 
to  help/teach further. I am not a copper-foil person, but I soak up 
all the info I get from copper-foil Bungi people, store it and use it 
to help my students who feel that THEY want to concentrate on 
copper-foil . I don't mind WHAT they do, as long as they do it 
WELL, as long as they follow my basic teaching of pride, quality 
and craftsmanship.
Loved your long response to the post. Can we 
consider it for the newsletter? I think you turned down an 
"opportunity" before, so I'll understand if you still feel that way, 
but it certainly was fun to read, especially the bit where you say 
what "Orrefors" means. <s>

Ok, will keep on trawling.....
> By the way, Albert, you don't happen to know the SWEDISH web-address 
> for any of these three??
Not offhand. I'd have to do a search for them. Time being as short as 
it is, I can't do that, but if you turn them up, I'd certainly be 
interested in taking a quick peek at them.

Delighted in your detailed response. Hope this is of interest to all 
the rest of you also......
My Very Best
Elisabeth 'n Toby in UK
----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
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From owner-glass Mon Nov 10 16:43:14 1997
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
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Subject: .... UK e-mail, sorry forgot
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Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 01:40:26 +0000
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Dear Albert and Bunginians,

Sorry I forgot to complete Judith's e-mail address, regarding further 
stained glass trips in Europe.
Judith's e-mail address is

judy@wensumlodge.demon.co.uk

Thanks for your patience & understanding
Elisabeth 'n Toby in UK
----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
----
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From owner-glass Mon Nov 10 17:14:04 1997
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From: Montgomery <montgomery@sws.nb.ca>
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Subject: Re: Remove 
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 17:13:36 -0800 (PST)
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At 08:35 08/11/97 EST, you wrote:
>Visit http://www.exoticauctions.com to visit a whole new angle on the
exotic animal market.
>
>If you have any animals or animal related products that you would like to
sell... 
>or if you would like to aquire animals or animal related products... of any
size or type,
>just visit http://www.exoticauctions.com.   Exotic Auctions is an Auction
House for
>DOMESTIC and EXOTIC animals.
> 
>///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
>If you wish to be removed from this advertiser's future mailings, please reply 
>with the subject "Remove" and this software will automatically block you 
>from their future mailings.
>///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/////
>
>----
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>
<-> <-> <-> <-> <-> <-> <-> <-> <-> <-> <-> <-> <-> <-> <-> <-> <-> <-> <-> <->

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From owner-glass Mon Nov 10 18:08:44 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!Dudley246
From: Dudley246@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: buying glass off the net!!
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 21:07:28 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov10.16728.0>
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Does anybody have any addresses for buying glass off the internet?? And does
it save you any money,instead of buying it from local stained glass stores??
I've found one site,it's Warner-Crivellaro,Inc.They seem to have better
prices than my local,but not for sure how much it cost to ship it! Thanks
alot,Damon
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From owner-glass Mon Nov 10 18:50:28 1997
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From: David Loda <dandl@crcwnet.com>
To: Glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Photo Resist
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 10:59:22 -0800
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Organization: Art Glass of Wenatchee
Precedence: bulk

I'm in the process of getting a sandblasting unit and I need imput on
the UV Letralite kits available thru both Rayzist and Photobrasive.
Anyone out there have any working knowledge with them?  Since they are a
10th of the price of the full size exposing equipment are they a 10th of
the worth.  If you wish to take this off line, you can email me at
dandl@crcwnet.com

thanks in advance

Dave

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From owner-glass Mon Nov 10 19:37:32 1997
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X-Path: juno.com!jroey
From: jroey@juno.com (Jerri M Roey)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: inside curves
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 21:52:51 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov10.165251.0>
References: <<1997Nov10.122754.0>>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk



>you could always break up the curves. in the center of each curve, cut
>it in half, it would have broken there anyway. after awhile you'll get
>better at doing curves. for now though, make 2 pieces instead of 1.
>
>---Mike Savad

	I've done that on some things, but that won't work on the frog's
feet. It just wouldn't look good. I just wondered if split foil is
something you have to live with sometimes, although patching has worked
well when I've done it.

Jerri


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From owner-glass Mon Nov 10 20:16:10 1997
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From: Lori <bunzie@flash.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Owl eyes...
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 23:15:53 -0800
Message-ID: <1997Nov11.151553.0>
References: <<1997Nov10.34040.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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Sandi,

I found owl eyes at this site called Tohickon Glass eyes.  Check it
out.  You'll have to do a search 'cause I lost the URL...

~Lori
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From owner-glass Mon Nov 10 20:18:19 1997
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From: Lori <bunzie@flash.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: buying glass off the net!!
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 23:18:19 -0800
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Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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Damon,

   There's TONS of glass suppliers on the net...Just do a search, and
you'll find lots of free catalogues too.

~Lori
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From owner-glass Mon Nov 10 22:12:28 1997
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From: Shirley Suter <ssuter@intrastar.net>
To: "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re:  Inside Curves
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 00:11:12 -0600
Message-ID: <1997Nov10.181112.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Intrastellar Internet Service
Precedence: bulk

Hi Jerri,

Yes, split foil is a fact to live with on tight inside curves...but, if
you figure you have to live with it, why not take a little control over
the situation.

The way I deal with split foil (which makes it APPEAR that I don't have
the problem at all) is to decide BEFORE foiling a glass piece just where
I think the foil NEEDS to split to make the foil fit the curve
smoothly.  On those spots, I place "band-aids, (1/2" strips of foil)
perpendicular around the edge of the glass.  Burnish , then foil as
usual.  Before folding the foil around the edges, split it where the
"band-aids" are installed (controlled splitting?!).  Burnish the foil. 
Using an X-acto knife, cut and clean away the excess of the "band-aid". 
Voila!  No visible splits and the slickest solder beads this side of
Slocum, TX!

I know all this may not seem clear (much easier to show than to
explain).  If you don't understand (understandably!) or you wish to see
this technique, just e-mail me directly and I will scan a few pieces of
glass to show this technique in a little more detail.  (Make sure your
e-mail account allows attachments).

Shirley, the possums, the cows and the deer
Grapeland, Tx.
ssuter@intrastar.net
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From owner-glass Mon Nov 10 23:12:45 1997
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X-Path: prodigy.com!YWAH36A
From: YWAH36A@prodigy.com ( BOB   DUCHESNEAU)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Internet Message 
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 02:11:24, -0500
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t 20:43 03/11/97 -0800, "Mic and Jeni Novak" <micn@nwlink.com> wrote 
to us
in the UK: We need to identify some stained glass windows we salvaged 
>from a old train . The nearest we can figure, the car was made 
around >1840's. We have found out that the car was remodeled in 1904 .
There were four car's made. One was made for the President of 
northern pacific railroad. We are not certain of where the other 
three are The car we are working on was decommissioned in 1928. We 
need some help to identify the window's maker?
>					Thank you
>					Dave, Jeni & Mic   
Is there a Bungian out there who can help them?
Elizabeth
Bournemouth Stained Glass
http://www.stained glass.co.uk

Bob writes,
  Contact the train museum at Balboa Park in San Diego, CA, USA. They 
have a wealth of information on trains of all sorts. Sorry I do not 
have their phone number but I bet you can find an internet address if 
you look hard.
  It seems to me the SG windows would have been part of the 1904 
remodel. You can be pretty sure that they are not from 1840 if they 
have bevels, gluechip or sandblasting as these techniques had not 
been discovered for glass use at that time.
Bob

____
Bob Duchesneau (You've got to be smarter than the gear you're working 
with.) Mountain Meadow Stained Glass, 26746 Mountain Meadow Road, 
Escondido, CA 92026 Voice (760) 749-3966 FAX (760) 749-6427
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From owner-glass Tue Nov 11 02:07:48 1997
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X-Path: computer.net!alewis
From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@computer.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Swedish Glass
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@computer.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 05:14:47 +0000
Message-ID: <199711111007.FAA11677@ns.computer.net>
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> Does the following quote from you mean that you two will come over 
> here??? If you are, I would never, ever forgive you if  you you 
> passed within a 100 miles of me without giving me the opportunity to 
> cook you both a Swedish meal. .....

Now you're talkin'! <s> We'll come if the tour works out. And that'll 
happen only if 10-12 people have signed up by February or so. The 
outfit that's organized the tour has been doing Arts & Crafts tours 
in England for years, but this is the first one with a stained glass 
focus. They asked Julie to plan it, which she did in her usual 
inimitably thorough fashion, but their usual clientele is older, 
retired folks with time and money on their hands, a taste for fine 
food and excellent lodgings, etc., which means the cost is awfully 
high (I think). But if, as you say, lodging and meals are expensive 
in England no matter *what you do, perhaps it couldn't be done more 
cheaply in any case. I'm not a member of the "older, retired" set 
(yet) and certainly not one with time and/or money on my hands, but 
at the same time, I've done with the youth hostel approach. <g>

> Another thing is, I am trying to work out a plan whereby myself and 
> some of my students could "hop-on-board" the party, once you are over 
> here. There would be quite a respectful little handful that would be 
> very interested...... Mind you,  neither them nor I could possibly 
> conceive to spend USD4,000 for joining up. 

Well, that's the thing. The price is "from London," so that's what 
the tour organizer would expect. Pretty much unworkable, I'd guess, 
for your group or Elizabeth's. Airfare isn't included, so that'd be 
the price. So far a few people (not enough yet) have said they plan 
on signing up; one woman in Mexico City plans to be in England 
anyway; others have said pretty much the same thing. We'll see.

> We are also planning other trips to Europe, e.g. Augsburg in Germany. 
> I also welcome ideas from you "Across the Pond". My own aim is to 
> organize such trips that really are affordable and without costly 
> and unnecessary "frills", yet comfortable and cosy.

Keep us posted on those. If they gel and we can be helpful in 
promoting them, we'd be glad to do so.

> I think I have established a reputarion as being a bit of a 
> missionary; sure,  I want to make a living creating stained glass as 
> I see it and interpret it, but I also want to teach, to promote 
> awareness of stained glass. 

Yes, that's been pretty much my motivation for the past 25 years, 
too.

Albert


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From owner-glass Tue Nov 11 04:56:40 1997
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Subject: Re: inside curves
Date: 11 Nov 97 07:56:46 EST
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I have a friend with a lizard sun catcher with the same feet - instead of 
cutting them out of glass they are cut out of foil.  Looks pretty good - 
you can see the distinction of the toes, and that's what makes the 
pattern!







Betty, Internal Audit, Ext. 4160

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From owner-glass Tue Nov 11 04:59:30 1997
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X-Path: juno.com!jroey
From: jroey@juno.com (Jerri M Roey)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Inside Curves
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 07:56:31 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov11.25631.0>
References: <<1997Nov10.181112.0>>
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Hi Shirley,

	Thank you, thank you thank you.  Just what I wanted to know. 
Your "bandaids" sound exactly like what I call "patching", so I
understood perfectly.  I was wondering, with all these curves, if there
was a way to avoid splitting.  I'm glad to know it's a fact of glass
life, and not just me!  (Thought there was some secret I may have
missed.)

	I have a feeling this tree frog is going to have lots of bandaids
on these little toes.  Well, I'll give it a try.  It's a cute pattern.  

Jerri



On Tue, 11 Nov 1997 00:11:12 -0600 Shirley Suter <ssuter@intrastar.net>
writes:
>Hi Jerri,
>
>Yes, split foil is a fact to live with on tight inside curves...but, 
>if
>you figure you have to live with it, why not take a little control 
>over
>the situation.
>
>The way I deal with split foil (which makes it APPEAR that I don't 
>have
>the problem at all) is to decide BEFORE foiling a glass piece just 
>where
>I think the foil NEEDS to split to make the foil fit the curve
>smoothly.  On those spots, I place "band-aids, (1/2" strips of foil)
>perpendicular around the edge of the glass.  Burnish , then foil as
>usual.  Before folding the foil around the edges, split it where the
>"band-aids" are installed (controlled splitting?!).  Burnish the foil. 
>
>Using an X-acto knife, cut and clean away the excess of the 
>"band-aid". 
>Voila!  No visible splits and the slickest solder beads this side of
>Slocum, TX!
>
>I know all this may not seem clear (much easier to show than to
>explain).  If you don't understand (understandably!) or you wish to 
>see
>this technique, just e-mail me directly and I will scan a few pieces 
>of
>glass to show this technique in a little more detail.  (Make sure your
>e-mail account allows attachments).
>
>Shirley, the possums, the cows and the deer
>Grapeland, Tx.
>ssuter@intrastar.net
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
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From owner-glass Tue Nov 11 05:29:34 1997
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To:           glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
Subject:      Wedding invitations
Date:         Tue, 11 Nov 97 08:21:35 EST
Message-ID:   <971111.082804.EST.HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Well, you see, I've never framed an wedding invitation and never even
looked too closely at how one was done, but a friend has asked me to
frame her daughter's invitation with the pressed flowers and all.  Now,
I'll talk to my supplier when I go up to get the stuff, but I thought I
would pick the bungi brains, too, since some of you have superior ideas.
Now I think the ones I have seen are mostly the invitation and pressed
flowers sandwiched between clear glass and glue chip (Sometimes other backing
glass).  How do you get the flowers and invitation to stay put?  I would guess
you need to leave small openings between the two pieces of glass or you
can get condensation between the ieces of glass, so how do you foil and
solder?  How do you hang?  Etc, etc?  Anyone have any tips or ideas they
wish to share?
TIA
Dorothy K

--
Dorothy Kalahan, Interlibrary Loan  (860) 679-2940  FAX (860) 679-4046
UCONN Health Center Library, POB 4003, Farmington CT 06034-4003
HCLADM02@UConnVM.uconn.edu
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From owner-glass Tue Nov 11 05:52:02 1997
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From: TifStyOrig@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Inside Curves
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 08:51:26 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov11.35126.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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The curve-splitting problem, like the curve ball, is a bit tricky.  However,
I have found a method that works for me - I wrap my piece with the foil, and
I then use my finger to burnish/press the foil down on each side, EXCEPT
around the curve.  Then, I use my fid (which is a penny), and I press the
edge of the glass flat, and when I get to the curve, I gently burnish the
edge first, and then along the "edge of the edge", gently pressing the foil
on both side of the curve (but still not completely flat).  Finally, I
burnish/flatten the sides of the piece, including the curve, and by this
time, the foil is adequately streched to avoid the split.  I've been
practicing this on alot of different curves, and it seems to be working 99%
of the time.
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From owner-glass Tue Nov 11 05:52:18 1997
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X-Path: computer.net!alewis
From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@computer.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: inside curves
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@computer.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 08:59:39 +0000
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> I have a friend with a lizard sun catcher with the same feet - instead of 
> cutting them out of glass they are cut out of foil.  Looks pretty good - 
> you can see the distinction of the toes, and that's what makes the

The same thing's often (actually, usually) done with glass paint. By 
putting dark paint on the glass where the separation between the toes 
should be, those areas "disappear," letting light through only the 
glass that represents the toes.  

Albert

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From owner-glass Tue Nov 11 06:02:44 1997
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X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: inside curves
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 08:59:54 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov11.35954.0>
References: <<1997Nov10.165251.0>>
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Jerri M Roey wrote:
> 
> >you could always break up the curves. in the center of each curve, cut
> >it in half, it would have broken there anyway. after awhile you'll get
> >better at doing curves. for now though, make 2 pieces instead of 1.
> >
> >---Mike Savad
> 
>         I've done that on some things, but that won't work on the frog's
> feet. It just wouldn't look good. I just wondered if split foil is
> something you have to live with sometimes, although patching has worked
> well when I've done it.
> 
> Jerri
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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sure patching works, but the glass may break in the future. since it is
the feet, a line going from the inside to the back of the piece would be
best. i think i remember the pattern, sometimes it's just needs to be
done that way. and (i believe you said it was fro your friend), if your
friend does'nt do stained glass, he may not know the difference between
the pattern and the finished piece...

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
 New Pages Added: Over 40 new stained glass links, Tips: How To Set Up A
Shop, and My adventures with the Aliens.
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From owner-glass Tue Nov 11 06:14:58 1997
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Inside Curves
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 09:12:21 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov11.41221.0>
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Jerri M Roey wrote:
> 
> Hi Shirley,
> 
>         Thank you, thank you thank you.  Just what I wanted to know.
> Your "bandaids" sound exactly like what I call "patching", so I
> understood perfectly.  I was wondering, with all these curves, if there
> was a way to avoid splitting.  I'm glad to know it's a fact of glass
> life, and not just me!  (Thought there was some secret I may have
> missed.)
> 
>         I have a feeling this tree frog is going to have lots of bandaids
> on these little toes.  Well, I'll give it a try.  It's a cute pattern.
> 
> Jerri
> 
> On Tue, 11 Nov 1997 00:11:12 -0600 Shirley Suter <ssuter@intrastar.net>
> writes:
> >Hi Jerri,
> >
> >Yes, split foil is a fact to live with on tight inside curves...but,
> >if
> >you figure you have to live with it, why not take a little control
> >over
> >the situation.
> >
> >The way I deal with split foil (which makes it APPEAR that I don't
> >have
> >the problem at all) is to decide BEFORE foiling a glass piece just
> >where
> >I think the foil NEEDS to split to make the foil fit the curve
> >smoothly.  On those spots, I place "band-aids, (1/2" strips of foil)
> >perpendicular around the edge of the glass.  Burnish , then foil as
> >usual.  Before folding the foil around the edges, split it where the
> >"band-aids" are installed (controlled splitting?!).  Burnish the foil.
> >
> >Using an X-acto knife, cut and clean away the excess of the
> >"band-aid".
> >Voila!  No visible splits and the slickest solder beads this side of
> >Slocum, TX!
> >
> >I know all this may not seem clear (much easier to show than to
> >explain).  If you don't understand (understandably!) or you wish to
> >see
> >this technique, just e-mail me directly and I will scan a few pieces
> >of
> >glass to show this technique in a little more detail.  (Make sure your
> >e-mail account allows attachments).
> >
> >Shirley, the possums, the cows and the deer
> >Grapeland, Tx.
> >ssuter@intrastar.net
> >----
> >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> >To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> >
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


i give a bunch of foiling tips on my page
http://www.geocities.com/paris/1141 under the tips section. but mainly,
i use the fid start on the edge of the piece and begin rubbing. for the
deep curves i don't pich it down, i let the fid do the work. as i start
to rub, i tilt the fid into the edge, and go through the entire inner
curve. 

this rubbing allows the foil to stretch some, and works about 90% of the
time.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
 New Pages Added: Over 40 new stained glass links, Tips: How To Set Up A
Shop, and My adventures with the Aliens.
----
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From owner-glass Tue Nov 11 06:22:20 1997
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Wedding invitations
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 09:20:20 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov11.42020.0>
References: <<971111.082804.EST.HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

mail wrote:
> 
> Well, you see, I've never framed an wedding invitation and never even
> looked too closely at how one was done, but a friend has asked me to
> frame her daughter's invitation with the pressed flowers and all.  Now,
> I'll talk to my supplier when I go up to get the stuff, but I thought I
> would pick the bungi brains, too, since some of you have superior ideas.
> Now I think the ones I have seen are mostly the invitation and pressed
> flowers sandwiched between clear glass and glue chip (Sometimes other backing
> glass).  How do you get the flowers and invitation to stay put?  I would guess
> you need to leave small openings between the two pieces of glass or you
> can get condensation between the ieces of glass, so how do you foil and
> solder?  How do you hang?  Etc, etc?  Anyone have any tips or ideas they
> wish to share?
> TIA
> Dorothy K
> 
> --
> Dorothy Kalahan, Interlibrary Loan  (860) 679-2940  FAX (860) 679-4046
> UCONN Health Center Library, POB 4003, Farmington CT 06034-4003
> HCLADM02@UConnVM.uconn.edu
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


basically, you could just leave them in place. however when i saw vicki
payne, she used a tiny touch of rubber cement. she place the cap/brush
on the table facing up, and touched the flower on the tip, then layed it
down. 

make sure the glass is very clean, no dirt, or fingerprints. buy some
1/2" foil. sandwich the two pieces, making sure they are exactly the
same size each. and foil. i like using 1/2" instead of 3/8" (depending
on the thickness of glass), becuase i can draw a bead on the face, and
it's a bit more ridged. 

you should'nt leave an opening, if done right there won't be any water
in it. don't wash it in the sink. use alcohol and some glass spray to
clean it. or else water will seep in, and destroy the card inside. also
see if you can get more then one invitation in case this does happen.
and watch the flux and the amount of heat you use.

to hang it, you can solder loops down the side of the piece, or a chain.
make sure you solder it on bother the top edge and the side. like a
corner that sticks out. or you could make a stained glass frame and hand
it as usual. 

just make sure the foil is lined up really well, and rubed down very
well. and that you use only dried flowers, fresh ones, get moldy in the
glass.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
 New Pages Added: Over 40 new stained glass links, Tips: How To Set Up A
Shop, and My adventures with the Aliens.
----
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From owner-glass Tue Nov 11 06:39:08 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!SSparks99
From: SSparks99@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Stained Glass Web Sites
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 09:38:37 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov11.43837.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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>From the postings to this stained glass site, I've gathered several site
addresses - I am a real organizer of information by nature.  I hope they're
correct.  Please let me know if there are any typos.  

I haven't visited all of them - so I assume they are all related to glass,
patterns, and information.  Enjoy!

www.aiap.com/amazon (Int'l Guild of Glass Artists, Inc.)
www.artglassworld.com
www.bungi.com/glass/igga/guide.htm (books, magazines) 
www.bungi.com/glass/igga/suppsupp.htm
www.bungi.com/glass/patterns
www.dodgestudio.com
www.geocites.com/paris/1141/links.htm
www.glasscrafters.com
www.glasspaterns.com
www.hotglass.com/links.html
www.islandnet.com/~jbrooks/dilhtm
www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm
www.rainbow.co.nz/karal/Index.html
www.rec.crafts.glass
www.spectrumglass.com
www.stainedglassbiz.com
www.stainedglasswarehouse.com/
www.summitstudio.com
www.suresite.com/or/g/glassguri
www.voyager.net/delphiglass
www.warner-criv.too

Keli 






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From owner-glass Tue Nov 11 06:44:50 1997
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X-Path: juno.com!jroey
From: jroey@juno.com (Jerri M Roey)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: inside curves
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 09:36:06 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov11.4366.0>
References: <<199711111352.IAA14501@ns.computer.net>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Thanks.  That's a neat idea too.  Since I have to paint the eyes anyway,
a little paint ont the toes would probably look pretty good with it.  I
guess I'll experiment until I get the results I'm happy with.  This must
be the reason I'm a hobbiest.  If someone brought me this pattern and
wanted me to make them a lightcatcher, I'd say, "Sure.  That'll be $75." 
:}


>The same thing's often (actually, usually) done with glass paint. By 
>putting dark paint on the glass where the separation between the toes 
>should be, those areas "disappear," letting light through only the 
>glass that represents the toes.  
>
>Albert
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
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From owner-glass Tue Nov 11 06:50:06 1997
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From: mike peck <summit-stained-glass@worldnet.att.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Inside Curves
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 08:51:45 -0600
Message-ID: <1997Nov11.25145.0>
References: <<1997Nov10.181112.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Summit Stained Glass
Precedence: bulk

Shirley Suter wrote:
Using an X-acto knife, cut and clean away the excess of the "band-aid".
> Voila!  No visible splits and the slickest solder beads this side of
> Slocum, TX!
> 
> I know all this may not seem clear (much easier to show than to
> explain).  If you don't understand (understandably!) or you wish to see
> this technique, just e-mail me directly and I will scan a few pieces of
> glass to show this technique in a little more detail.  (Make sure your
> e-mail account allows attachments).
> 
> Shirley, the possums, the cows and the deer
> Grapeland, Tx.
> ssuter@intrastar.net

Shirley,

Just wanted to send you a quick note ....... "slickest solder beads this
side of Slocum,TX!"  I just love your posts.  I still remember your
rendition of how to precisely calculate how tall a lampshade base should
be!  And, I use it from time to time when one of my students asks.

For those that missed it (about a year ago), check out the archives, it
was truly a bungi classic!


Mike Peck
----
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From owner-glass Tue Nov 11 06:51:27 1997
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Re: Swedish Glass
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@mail.nildram.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 14:48:31 +0000
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Precedence: bulk

Dear Albert,

Wow! That IS expensive. For that price I would have expected a 
champagne flight on Concorde.......   ;-) Not a chance for either 
myself or my students, sadly.

However, by pure coincidence, Charles asked me what the average cost 
was for the trip to Chartres (not forgetting that the Americans came 
and joined the party here in UK first and that we all went together 
out to France and back again). Very  roughly for the 3 weeks I have 
guestimated that the Americans had to pay (excluding ''spending 
money'', but including flight cost based on UK priced cheap return 
flight to N.Y.) approx. UK Sterling 500.
The price included the hire of a private coach to take us to France 
and back, it also included the cost of the return ferry-crossing and 
the skills of the coach driver Ken, as he negotiated his way past the 
houses in the village of the Loire studio, with about 1 cm to spare 
before knocking the walls down..... The whole village gathered to 
watch the spectacle as about 7-8 of us, a driver and a coach as 
large as a house itself negotiated through the village.
''Mais, alors.... ils sont foux cettes Anglaises!!'' accompanied by 
much Gallic head-shakes... Good fun though!! The Loire family had 
already heard about our somewhat dramatic arrival, through the 
village grape-vine...

 In France we stayed at a 2-star hotel which wasn't luxurious, but 
comfortable, clean , with ensuite baths/showers and located 500 
metres from the cathedral itself.  The breakfast was included in the 
price and you could eat as much as you liked. Some of us even made an 
additional ''packed lunch'' for the day. For dinner, you did your own 
thing, spent as much as your wallet allowed or your culinary 
preferences dictated. It was a free and easy schedule, devoid of 
being ''goose-marched'' around from site to site.

I can now much better understand the concept of Julie's trip and the 
the people likely to be interested.Another interesting point, if you 
or anyone remembers - about 8-9 months ago, yourself or Julie posted 
a message into Bungi asking for info about renting a house/flat in UK 
for next year for some period of time around the proposed stained 
glass trip. I contacted her off-group and asked what she had in mind 
and could I help.Other than Glasgow (where I can't help much), the 
area she had in mind is right in the middle where I myself am based; 
close to Cambridge, Oxford, London, East Anglia region; Liverpool & 
Coventry about 90 minutes away by car. However, I haven't heard from 
her since, but perhaps she is ''sorted'' by now.
Any trip I am likely to plan in the future is primaraly aimed at my 
stained glass students and the emphasis will be placed on  
affordability to the ''ordinary pocket''. Anyone joining us from 
abroad will be taken up by me/us as part of the family. Since it has 
worked so well before, I see no reason why it shouldn't do so again.


Now you're talkin'! <s> We'll come if the tour works out. And that'll 
happen only if 10-12 people have signed up by February or so. The 
outfit that's organized the tour has been doing Arts & Crafts tours 
in England for years, but this is the first one with a stained glass 
focus. They asked Julie to plan it, which she did in her usual 
inimitably thorough fashion, but their usual clientele is older, 
retired folks with time and money on their hands, a taste for fine 
food and excellent lodgings, etc., which means the cost is awfully 
high (I think). But if, as you say, lodging and meals are expensive 
in England no matter *what you do, perhaps it couldn't be done more 
cheaply in any case.

Well, yes and no... It's often a question of knowing where to go and 
what your expectations are. A hotel-room in central London would cost 
you between UK Sterling 70 - 120 pp/p.night, and more if you expect 
crystal chandeliers in your room. An ''haute-cuisine dinner'' can 
easily set you back UK Sterling 100 for 2.  ....Elisabeth's 
home-cooking comes for free....  ;-)  ) But a perfectly adequate, 
simple, clean double room (with ensuite bathroom & shower) with one 
of the chain motels costs you UK Sterling 20 per ROOM/night. Private 
Bed & Breakfast, now about the same, but p.p. A lot of pubs and inns 
in UK are also run as hotels and can be delightful places to stay, as 
they often tend to be ''oldie-worldlie'' and quaint. This info might 
be helpful for anyone out there planning to do their own stained 
glass trip to UK.

 I'm not a member of the 
"older, retired" set (yet) and certainly not one with time and/or 
money on my hands, but at the same time, I've done with the youth 
hostel approach. <g>
....Hmmm, yes... me too.

Well, that's the thing. The price is "from London," so that's what 
the tour organizer would expect. Pretty much unworkable, I'd guess, 
for your group or Elizabeth's. Airfare isn't included, so that'd be 
the price. So far a few people (not enough yet) have said they plan 
on signing up; one woman in Mexico City plans to be in England 
anyway; others have said pretty much the same thing. We'll see.

Great, if you have that sort of money! Current rate of exchange is 
approx USD 1.7 to the Pound, that makes the cost about UK Sterling 
2,350 plus getting here.  A 16-day all inclusive luxury tour to China 
from UK would cost me UK Sterling 1,650....... (including the fare).


> We are also planning other trips to Europe, e.g. Augsburg in Germany. 
> I also welcome ideas from you "Across the Pond". My own aim is to 
> organize such trips that really are affordable and without costly 
> and unnecessary "frills", yet comfortable and cosy.

Keep us posted on those. If they gel and we can be helpful in 
promoting them, we'd be glad to do so.
I will!
Take care now & get saving folks! Would love to see you over here!
Elisabeth 'n Toby in UK
----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
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From owner-glass Tue Nov 11 07:13:57 1997
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From: mike peck <summit-stained-glass@worldnet.att.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Wedding invitations
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 09:14:21 -0600
Message-ID: <1997Nov11.31421.0>
References: <<971111.082804.EST.HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Summit Stained Glass
Precedence: bulk

mail wrote:
> 
> Well, you see, I've never framed an wedding invitation and never even
> looked too closely at how one was done, but a friend has asked me to
> frame her daughter's invitation with the pressed flowers and all.  Now,
> I'll talk to my supplier when I go up to get the stuff, but I thought I
> would pick the bungi brains, too, since some of you have superior ideas.
> Now I think the ones I have seen are mostly the invitation and pressed
> flowers sandwiched between clear glass and glue chip (Sometimes other backing
> glass).  How do you get the flowers and invitation to stay put?  I would guess
> you need to leave small openings between the two pieces of glass or you
> can get condensation between the ieces of glass, so how do you foil and
> solder?  How do you hang?  Etc, etc?  Anyone have any tips or ideas they
> wish to share?
> TIA
> Dorothy K


Dorothy,

I've done a number of these.  First get a piece of single strength clear
plate glass and cut it to the size of the invitation, plus a little
extra for a nice 1" or so border.  Cut another piece of glass for the
backside, something softly textured like glue chip. Clean both pieces of
glass, then clean the pieces of glass again, and make sure that both
pieces of glass are CLEAN.  Then set the invitation down, face side up
on the textured glass and carefully place the clear glass on top. 
Squeeze the glass panes together and use masking tape on two sides, draw
the tape across the top glass, squeeze the sandwich together, then run
it across the back glass.  Do this at least on two sides.  Then run a
SMALL quantity of clear silicon caulk around the seam and let it set up
overnight.  Then pull the tape off, more caulk over the seamed area
under the tape, let it set up for a few hours, then clean off the excess
caulk with a razor blade.  Foil it up and make a nice border.

Note:  If you don't seal the edge of the sandwich, you'll see flux soak
right into the sandwich while you're soldering it up.  Or, water will
soak into the sandwich when you're cleaning it off.  And, if none of
that happens, then you'll get condensation inside it after you've
already given to the newly weds (ouchhhhhhhh).

Variations:  consider a nice piece of clear GNA for the front glass,
rather than the clear plate, but the sandwich will be noticably thicker,
looks OK with bevels around the border.

Good Luck,

Mike Peck
Summit Stained Glass
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From owner-glass Tue Nov 11 07:20:59 1997
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X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Inside Curves
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 10:17:15 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov11.51715.0>
References: <<1997Nov11.25145.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

mike peck wrote:
> 
> Shirley Suter wrote:
> Using an X-acto knife, cut and clean away the excess of the "band-aid".
> > Voila!  No visible splits and the slickest solder beads this side of
> > Slocum, TX!
> >
> > I know all this may not seem clear (much easier to show than to
> > explain).  If you don't understand (understandably!) or you wish to see
> > this technique, just e-mail me directly and I will scan a few pieces of
> > glass to show this technique in a little more detail.  (Make sure your
> > e-mail account allows attachments).
> >
> > Shirley, the possums, the cows and the deer
> > Grapeland, Tx.
> > ssuter@intrastar.net
> 
> Shirley,
> 
> Just wanted to send you a quick note ....... "slickest solder beads this
> side of Slocum,TX!"  I just love your posts.  I still remember your
> rendition of how to precisely calculate how tall a lampshade base should
> be!  And, I use it from time to time when one of my students asks.
> 
> For those that missed it (about a year ago), check out the archives, it
> was truly a bungi classic!
> 
> Mike Peck
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


i could'nt find it, and don't really remember it, could you repeat it,
or paraphrase it.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
 New Pages Added: Over 40 new stained glass links, Tips: How To Set Up A
Shop, and My adventures with the Aliens.
----
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From owner-glass Tue Nov 11 07:33:10 1997
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From: "Sheila" <pucky@ee.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Two Questions
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 10:40:01 -0500
Message-ID: <199711111534.KAA00714@ee.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk



I guess you could call me a lurker also.....I have been on the bungi email list for about a month
now and have found it very helpful and the sites I have visited are wonderful.  
  Now for my first question.....I am just starting in sandblasting and I am looking at a 40lb 
sandblaster system....it is a 10 gallon tank size for around $140.00...I am not sure of the Brand
name...does it sound like a good size sandblaster....not too small?
   Next question is this if I put my work in a Consignment Shop.....as I said I am a
beginner...what is a good percentage like 75/25....80/20?  Right now I just want to get my work out
there to be seen.  I live in the  Ohio area.   

Thanks for any input!
  Sheba
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From owner-glass Tue Nov 11 08:11:06 1997
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From: BETTY_HALL@RJF2.RJF.COM (BETTY HALL)
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Re: Two Questions
Date: 11 Nov 97 11:11:08 EST
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I live in the Tampa area, and have some of my things in a local Gallery.  
The split there is 60/40.  I have the benefit for her advertising, 
experience, clientele and the variety of art she has that attracts 
customers.  Well worth the spilt to me!







Betty, Internal Audit, Ext. 4160

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From owner-glass Tue Nov 11 08:21:32 1997
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X-Path: intrastar.net!ssuter
From: Shirley Suter <ssuter@intrastar.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Inside Curves
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 10:20:05 -0600
Message-ID: <1997Nov11.4205.0>
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Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Intrastellar Internet Service
Precedence: bulk

mike peck wrote:
> Shirley,
> 
> Just wanted to send you a quick note ....... "slickest solder beads this
> side of Slocum,TX!"  I just love your posts.

Hi Mike,

Thanks.  Been a long time since I've blushed....WHAT A RUSH!!!

S.
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From owner-glass Tue Nov 11 08:30:04 1997
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From: mike peck <summit-stained-glass@worldnet.att.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Inside Curves
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 10:31:41 -0600
Message-ID: <1997Nov11.43141.0>
References: <<1997Nov11.51715.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Summit Stained Glass
Precedence: bulk

M. Savad wrote:
> 
> mike peck wrote:
> >
> > Shirley Suter wrote:
> > Using an X-acto knife, cut and clean away the excess of the "band-aid".
> > > Voila!  No visible splits and the slickest solder beads this side of
> > > Slocum, TX!
> > >
> > > I know all this may not seem clear (much easier to show than to
> > > explain).  If you don't understand (understandably!) or you wish to see
> > > this technique, just e-mail me directly and I will scan a few pieces of
> > > glass to show this technique in a little more detail.  (Make sure your
> > > e-mail account allows attachments).
> > >
> > > Shirley, the possums, the cows and the deer
> > > Grapeland, Tx.
> > > ssuter@intrastar.net
> >
> > Shirley,
> >
> > Just wanted to send you a quick note ....... "slickest solder beads this
> > side of Slocum,TX!"  I just love your posts.  I still remember your
> > rendition of how to precisely calculate how tall a lampshade base should
> > be!  And, I use it from time to time when one of my students asks.
> >
> > For those that missed it (about a year ago), check out the archives, it
> > was truly a bungi classic!
> >
> > Mike Peck
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> 
> i could'nt find it, and don't really remember it, could you repeat it,
> or paraphrase it.
> 
> ---Mike Savad
> 



I certainly couldn't mimick that wonderful Texas flavor that Shirley
adds to her posts, but in essence, she said to place several sizes of
bases on a table and have someone (with a large insurance policy and you
as the benefactor) hold the shade above each one while you look at them
from a distance.  The one that looks just right has got to be the one
you want.

Seems like everyone has some formula for determining the precise hieght
of a base to support a certain diameter of shade, but ultimately I think
Shirley's answer was the most useful.

Mike Peck
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From owner-glass Tue Nov 11 08:33:03 1997
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From: Shirley Suter <ssuter@intrastar.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Inside Curves
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 10:32:13 -0600
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Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Intrastellar Internet Service
Precedence: bulk

M. Savad quoted volumes, then wrote:

> i could'nt find it, and don't really remember it, could you repeat it,
> or paraphrase it.
> 
> ---Mike Savad


Sorry, M.S., no can do.  Learned a long time ago that an "Encore
Performance" is simply a chance for the audience to AIM BETTER.

Shirley
Grapeland, Tx.
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From owner-glass Tue Nov 11 08:45:22 1997
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X-Path: crcwnet.com!dandl
From: David Loda <dandl@crcwnet.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: [Fwd: Photo Resist]
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 08:51:56 -0800
Message-ID: <1997Nov11.05156.0>
References: <<1997Nov10.55413.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Art Glass of Wenatchee
Precedence: bulk

Thanks for your information, 11x14 is just fine for the things I want to get done. Maybe in a few years I'll upgrade to the full
size photo resist or a knife plotter.

Once again, thanks

Wildeworks wrote:

> David;
>     We use a Letralite uv unit with our Paragrave Sandblaster. We hsve had this unit for 2 yrs now and had no trouble with it
> .It works great for small things, but anything over 11 by 14 would have to done on a bigger light. We use paragrave resist
> with it.
>   Hope this helps.
>
>     Wildeworks
>     Designs in Glass
>     www.alaska.net/~rsully/
>     wildewk@pobox.alaska.net
>
> David Loda wrote:
>
> >                                                   ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> >
> > Subject: Photo Resist
> > Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 10:59:22 -0800
> > From: David Loda <dandl@crcwnet.com>
> > Organization: Art Glass of Wenatchee
> > To: Glass@bungi.com
> >
> > I'm in the process of getting a sandblasting unit and I need imput on
> > the UV Letralite kits available thru both Rayzist and Photobrasive.
> > Anyone out there have any working knowledge with them?  Since they are a
> > 10th of the price of the full size exposing equipment are they a 10th of
> > the worth.  If you wish to take this off line, you can email me at
> > dandl@crcwnet.com
> >
> > thanks in advance
> >
> > Dave
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass



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X-Path: aol.com!StndGlass1
From: StndGlass1@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Wedding invitations
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 12:18:37 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov11.71837.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Another trick with soldering of wedding invitations in glass (I just got
married in September and made a keepsake for my husband and myself) is to use
a new product that came out recently, the flux pen.

The flux pen contains a liquid flux which you can apply to foil or lead in
controlled amounts.  If you use the flux pen, there is next to no possibility
of flux seeping into your piece.  Additionally, the cleanup with alcohol
afterwards is made very easy since there is very little greasy flux to
remove!

Jenna Meredith-Sanders
Meredith Stained Glass
http://www.meredithglass.com
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From owner-glass Tue Nov 11 09:59:02 1997
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X-Path: prodigy.com!YWAH36A
From: YWAH36A@prodigy.com ( BOB   DUCHESNEAU)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Swedish Glass
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 12:36:58, -0500
Message-ID: <199711111736.MAA23458@mime4.prodigy.com>
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Toby wrote:
> We are also planning other trips to Europe, e.g. Augsburg in 
Germany. 
> I also welcome ideas from you "Across the Pond". My own aim is to 
> organize such trips that really are affordable and without costly 
> and unnecessary "frills", yet comfortable and cosy.

Bob writes,
  Exactly my idea for a tour I would like to go on. Some of us that 
work with our hands & hearts simply do not want to or can not spend 
big bucks for a few days enjoyment when we have the lost wages & 
expenses of being away from our chosen work. I love fine food & did 
some in last night. I got to choose the time, place & type of food. 
Just want to eat the local food on a tour to live & not live to eat. 
Same with the logging. Must be clean, comfortable & realitively 
secure. Nothing more. When I am through with a day of touring I 
expect to go to sleep to get ready for the next day & not spend time 
admiring the woodwork. 
  When it comes to seeing glass I am very serious & want to see it 
all.
Just a few free thoughts, Bob

____
Bob Duchesneau (You've got to be smarter than the gear you're working 
with.) Mountain Meadow Stained Glass, 26746 Mountain Meadow Road, 
Escondido, CA 92026 Voice (760) 749-3966 FAX (760) 749-6427
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From owner-glass Tue Nov 11 11:24:46 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!TifStyOrig
From: TifStyOrig@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Two Questions
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 14:23:29 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov11.92329.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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As for an answer to question two:  I live in Delray Beach, FL and I have my
pieces in a local stained glass shop for a 25% commission fee.  That works
great for my larger pieces, but bites into my profit on the smaller pieces.
 Instead, I do local shows, home shows and "word of mouth" to sell the
smaller pieces, which is necessary bread & butter money.  I am a home-bound
Glassartisan (my humble, self-imposed knickname for glass crafter/artisan), I
don't have the manpower yet to open my own shop, and the local market affords
me the opportunity to stay "in touch" with my love for glass, while making a
little pin money!  :>)

Diane Manchester
Tiffany Styled Originals
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From owner-glass Tue Nov 11 12:01:55 1997
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X-Path: compuserve.com!GreerStudios
From: "Michael J. Greer" <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: All <GLASS@BUNGI.COM>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Stained Glass Trips
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 14:59:59 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov11.95959.0>
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Dear Albert & Elisabeth!

All this talk about stained glass
trips is making me yearn!  When
I read about the UK trip, Albert,
I was ready to hop on the plane
in a hearbeat... until I got to the
price... sadly, it's a bit rich for my
blood... so frustrating since the
Pre-Raphaelites are my faves...
and tea at the Red House...sigh.

But, thanks to Elisabeth, I'm
not so depressed anymore!  I
have no idea how we'll get away
during the summer, but just =

dreaming about it makes me
drool.  And I love the frugal-
but-not-too-cheap approach...
just my style!

As far as the Swedish tour, I know
the organizer... we live in the same
town.  Contact me off-bungi for more
info.

Best regards,

Dani Greer
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From owner-glass Tue Nov 11 12:01:56 1997
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From: "Michael J. Greer" <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: "INTERNET:glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Re: Wedding invitations
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 15:00:05 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov11.1005.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Congratulations, Jenna! :-)

Best regards,

Dani Greer
Greer Gallery & Studios

http://eme.usa.net/greerstudios/
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From owner-glass Tue Nov 11 12:38:42 1997
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X-Path: juno.com!jroey
From: jroey@juno.com (Jerri M Roey)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Wedding invitations--an added touch
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 15:09:32 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov11.10932.0>
References: <<971111.082804.EST.HCLADM02@uconnvm.uconn.edu>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

	I've never made one, but there's a nice one in my local
retailer's shop that someone made for him and his wife.  They used an
irridized pink/white glass for the background, the dried flowers, and put
down a fine lace or trim before they put down the announcement so that
the lace made a frame around it.  It looks really nice.

Jerri



On Tue, 11 Nov 97 08:21:35 EST mail <HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu> writes:
>Well, you see, I've never framed an wedding invitation and never even
>looked too closely at how one was done, but a friend has asked me to
>frame her daughter's invitation with the pressed flowers and all.  
>Now,
>I'll talk to my supplier when I go up to get the stuff, but I thought 
>I
>would pick the bungi brains, too, since some of you have superior 
>ideas.
>Now I think the ones I have seen are mostly the invitation and pressed
>flowers sandwiched between clear glass and glue chip (Sometimes other 
>backing
>glass).  How do you get the flowers and invitation to stay put?  I 
>would guess
>you need to leave small openings between the two pieces of glass or 
>you
>can get condensation between the ieces of glass, so how do you foil 
>and
>solder?  How do you hang?  Etc, etc?  Anyone have any tips or ideas 
>they
>wish to share?
>TIA
>Dorothy K
>
>--
>Dorothy Kalahan, Interlibrary Loan  (860) 679-2940  FAX (860) 679-4046
>UCONN Health Center Library, POB 4003, Farmington CT 06034-4003
>HCLADM02@UConnVM.uconn.edu
>----
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>
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From owner-glass Tue Nov 11 12:42:18 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!LElsbury
From: LElsbury@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Swedish Glass
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 15:39:52 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov11.103952.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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I would be interested in information regarding stained glass trips/tours for
the "affordable" pocketbook.  Please e-mail me at LElsbury@aol.com.  Thanks!
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From owner-glass Tue Nov 11 12:55:45 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!Bubstah
From: Bubstah@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Morse Museum
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 15:53:48 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov11.105348.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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About this museum, where in Florida is it located.  I would like to see it
when I go to Florida this winter. 
Thank you in advance
Bubstah@aol.com
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From owner-glass Tue Nov 11 14:41:13 1997
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From: LElsbury@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: remove
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 17:37:52 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov11.123752.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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please remove my name from this companies mailing list.  
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From owner-glass Tue Nov 11 15:39:30 1997
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X-Path: slonet.org!edupjohn
From: "Peggy W. Johnsen" <edupjohn@slonet.org>
To: "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re:  Inside Curves
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 15:36:18 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov11.73618.0>
References: <<1997Nov10.181112.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Dear Jerri:

You can do inside curves without the foil splinting!  When wrapping the
foil start in the middle of the curve and wrap around.  Then take a stylus
and gently begin to burnish the curved area allowing it to "stretch" as
you go.  If you take your time, you will find it easy to eliminate the
split foil.  PJ

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From owner-glass Tue Nov 11 15:55:13 1997
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X-Path: inspace.net!herba
From: "Herb Adler" <herba@inspace.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Morse Museum
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 18:24:45 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov11.132445.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

The Morse Museum is in Winter Park which is just NE of Orlando, about a 15
minute drive from downtown Orlando or 30 minutes from Sea World,  a bit
longer from the Disney Hotels. It is located off of Interstate-4, exit at
Fairview Ave East to Park Ave, left or north on Park about 1 mile.
If you're in a hurry, you can go through it in 2 hours. Depending on your
interest, it could take longer. The docents are very knowledgeable and be
sure to ask for one to fully learn about the pieces on display.
They do not have their own web page yet but an article written by a local
arts reviewer on the Museum can be seen at
http://www.goflorida.com/central/orlando/see/museum/morse.html
Hope you enjoy it. I go back often and always find more that fascinates me.
-----Original Message-----
From: Bubstah@aol.com <Bubstah@aol.com>
To: glass@bungi.com <glass@bungi.com>
Date: Tuesday, November 11, 1997 4:11 PM
Subject: Re: Morse Museum


>About this museum, where in Florida is it located.  I would like to see it
>when I go to Florida this winter.
>Thank you in advance
>Bubstah@aol.com
>----
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>

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From owner-glass Tue Nov 11 16:42:56 1997
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X-Path: erols.com!jkeane
From: Hee Sun Stained Glass <jkeane@erols.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Stained Glass Book
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 19:41:53 -0500
Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.19971111194153.006ab570@pop.erols.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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Has anyone read or used the SGAA Reference and Technical Manual, if so how
would you rate it and was it worth the money.  I found it the other night
while chasing a bunch of stained glass links.  I'm a sucker for a good book
and I can usually get over the cost if the book contains good relevant
information and advice. Thanks .
Robert Keane 

rkeane3@erols.com

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From owner-glass Tue Nov 11 16:52:31 1997
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X-Path: netrox.net!athena
From: "M.-J. Taylor" <athena@netrox.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Looking for a patterns ... free, of course ;\
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 18:44:49 -0500
Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.19971111184449.00761e5c@pop.netrox.net>
References: <<1997Nov10.4054.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


>	A friend wants me to make her a frog suncatcher as a gift for her
>mom. 

That reminds me, I've been trying to find a gecko pattern for a mosaic I
want to make ... a stained glass pattern will work equally well. Indeed, I
probably will make a couple of stepping stones to match as well. 

I've drawn a couple and I just don't love how they're coming out ... the
curve of the body is giving me trouble! :\ Any help would be greatly
appreciated!

Thanks!

M.-J.
****What I write is just what *I* think. Take what *you* like and leave the
rest.****

M.-J. Taylor 
<athena@bridge.net> 

Although we cannot change the direction of the wind,
              we can adjust our sails. (Unknown)

 
                                              |\                ( )
 _____________________________________________|_\_____________________
                                              -----             -_-_
                                                               -- - -
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From owner-glass Tue Nov 11 16:53:06 1997
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X-Path: netrox.net!athena
From: "M.-J. Taylor" <athena@netrox.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Owl eyes...
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 19:51:51 -0500
Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.19971111195151.0076a0d4@pop.netrox.net>
References: <<1997Nov10.34040.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

http://www.tohickonglasseyes.com/

very cool!!

Thanks.

M.-J.

At 11:15 PM 11/11/97 -0800, you wrote:
>Sandi,
>
>I found owl eyes at this site called Tohickon Glass eyes.  Check it
>out.  You'll have to do a search 'cause I lost the URL...
>
****What I write is just what *I* think. Take what *you* like and leave the
rest.****

M.-J. Taylor 
<athena@bridge.net> 

Although we cannot change the direction of the wind,
              we can adjust our sails. (Unknown)

 
                                              |\                ( )
 _____________________________________________|_\_____________________
                                              -----             -_-_
                                                               -- - -
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From owner-glass Tue Nov 11 17:20:58 1997
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X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: 3-d squiggles
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 20:17:56 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov11.151756.0>
References: <<3.0.1.32.19971111195151.0076a0d4@pop.netrox.net>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

here's an odd request, but maybe someone here might know of a site. i
need 3-d squiggles. i need to get ideas for the project i'm working on,
i need some inspiration. the shape would be simaler to soft speggetti on
it's end. i'm just having problems visualizing it. 

i could even use, maybe a geometetry shape page.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
 New Pages Added: Over 40 new stained glass links, Tips: How To Set Up A
Shop, and My adventures with the Aliens.
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From owner-glass Tue Nov 11 18:02:13 1997
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X-Path: io.com!dsj
From: dsj@io.com (Diane Jacobs)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: pattern paper
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 20:07:47 -0600
Message-ID: <v01530501b08eb90a769d@[206.224.81.176]>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


>i've used 3-M transparency sheets and cover sheets. every so often they
>send me some free samples, along with a card for more free samples, and
>it's kind of endless... anyway, i've used the things (acetate
>basically), for covering my paper pattern so it does'nt get wet. and
>for  the odd pattern as well.
>
>---Mike Savad
>

Mike, how did you get on that mailing list?


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From owner-glass Tue Nov 11 18:18:27 1997
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From: dsj@io.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject:  Numerous posts
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 20:24:07 -0600
Message-ID: <v01530506b08ec29ab5da@[206.224.81.73]>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I enjoy this newsgroup, and don't want to discourage any of the wonderful
discussion, but posit the following for your consideration:  I work all
day, come home, check my e-mail, and recently have been finding 50+
messages only from bungi.  Most of which I never get to, because there just
isn't time.

Please keep this in mind as you post; if even a few people could cut back
from six or eight postings a day to two or three, even if they consolidate,
I'd be able to keep up & enjoy all this.

As it is, I'm on the verge of unsubscribing, due to critical mass.
Thanks for your time.


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From owner-glass Tue Nov 11 19:09:45 1997
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X-Path: abelink.com!rbaker
From: Di Baker <rbaker@abelink.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Postings (((:
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 21:06:21 -0500
Message-ID: <v03007807b08ebe9761d9@[206.29.84.136]>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi All of you wonderful glass artists!

Please don't cut back on the postings! I am thrilled that this list has
really become quite active & really enjoy reading everyone's posts...even
if I don't get time to post that often. Maybe the solution is to allow
those who wish a digest form of the list? Then you would only receive 1
email for the day & you could browse / print out at your leisure. Several
of the lists I am on have this option.

A special big thank you to what a wonderful creative addition Mike is to
this list..he always makes me smile & I really appreciate all of his hard
work on his web site. If you haven't had a chance to check it out please
do. Whimsical & fun!

Get cutting!

Di

~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~*~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~*
                _ |\_
                \` ..\   Di Baker       <rbaker@abelink.com>
           __,.-" =__Y=  Kitties--Bogie Blue, Chanel Blue, Sarah,
   jgs   ."        )              Tornado, Cagney
   _    /   ,    \/\_    Wanna see how cute we are? Visit us at:
  ((____|    )_-\ \_-`   http://www.islandnet.com/~jbrooks/di1.htm
  `-----'`-----` `--`
~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~*~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* 


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From owner-glass Tue Nov 11 19:12:34 1997
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X-Path: abelink.com!rbaker
From: Di Baker <rbaker@abelink.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Taurus II ring saw
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 21:09:29 -0500
Message-ID: <v03007808b08ebfa8a202@[206.29.84.136]>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Whoops! My new Taurus ring saw arrived late last night & I am so thrilled
with this purchase. I also love to handcut alot of my glass but am glad to
see that I now have this option when I need to do thos e more difficult
cuts that I don't feel comfortable with as yet (((:

So I read the instructions...nothing about CLEANING )): Did I overlook? How
often do I have to change water? Do you really need ice all the time on the
left hand side? Is it safe to dump the water down the loo?

I know alot of questions. Thank you Glass Crafters for such wonderful fast
service!

Thanks,

~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~*~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~*
                _ |\_
                \` ..\   Di Baker       <rbaker@abelink.com>
           __,.-" =__Y=  Kitties--Bogie Blue, Chanel Blue, Sarah,
   jgs   ."        )              Tornado, Cagney
   _    /   ,    \/\_    Wanna see how cute we are? Visit us at:
  ((____|    )_-\ \_-`   http://www.islandnet.com/~jbrooks/di1.htm
  `-----'`-----` `--`
~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~*~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* 


----
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From owner-glass Tue Nov 11 20:31:17 1997
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X-Path: sgi.net!mindwarp
From: mindwarp <mindwarp@sgi.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Owl eyes...
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 23:21:29 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov11.182129.0>
References: <<3.0.1.32.19971111195151.0076a0d4@pop.netrox.net>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Thank you for posting this site............They have the eyes I need...

M.-J. Taylor wrote:
> 
> http://www.tohickonglasseyes.com/
> 
> very cool!!
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> M.-J.
> 
> At 11:15 PM 11/11/97 -0800, you wrote:
> >Sandi,
> >
> >I found owl eyes at this site called Tohickon Glass eyes.  Check it
> >out.  You'll have to do a search 'cause I lost the URL...
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From owner-glass Wed Nov 12 00:44:59 1997
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X-Path: computer.net!alewis
From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@computer.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Stained Glass Book
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@computer.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 03:52:00 +0000
Message-ID: <199711120845.DAA15546@ns.computer.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


> Has anyone read or used the SGAA Reference and Technical Manual, if so how
> would you rate it and was it worth the money. 

There was a long review of it in Professional Stained Glass magazine, 
June 1989, shortly after the book was published. The reviewers, 
myself, Gene Mallard, Rachel Mesrahi, Joe Porcelli, Monona Rossol, 
and Julie L. Sloan, had quite a bit to say about it.

You can find that at http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/sgaa.htm

Albert

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From owner-glass Wed Nov 12 05:09:21 1997
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X-Path: computer.net!alewis
From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@computer.net>
To: Int'l.Guild.of.Glass.Artists@ns.computer.net
Subject: Orrefors glass trip redux
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@computer.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 08:12:05 +0000
Message-ID: <199711121305.IAA18370@ns.computer.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

The organizers of the trip to the Orrefors glass factory in Sweden 
just sent us a note that the deadline for applying for a spot on the 
tour has been pushed back two weeks. So if you've been thinking about 
it, change your calendar to show the deadline on December 1st. Here's 
the updated info, as it appears on http://www.stainedglassbiz.com 
under "Events," along with a lot of other upcoming stuff:

Nordic Art Glass, in conjunction with Orrefors Crystal, is sponsoring
a glass intensive trip to Sweden during August 1998 as part of the
100th anniversary of Orrefors Crystal. Visit their web site at
http://co.nbci.net/crystal/ or contact Bill Geary at Nordic Art Glass,
P.O. Box 2247, Colorado Springs, CO 80901 or call (719) 527-0810 for a
brochure. Email: NordGlass@aol.com  The deadline for reserving a spot
is December 1, 1997 (!) so hurry!

Albert Lewis, Executive Director

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From owner-glass Wed Nov 12 05:36:37 1997
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X-Path: erols.com!jkeane
From: Robert & Jeanne Keane <jkeane@erols.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Stained Glass Book
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 08:35:49 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov12.33549.0>
References: <<199711120845.DAA15546@ns.computer.net>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Hee Sun Stained Glass
Precedence: bulk

Albert ,
As usual thanks for the excellent information. I checked out the review
of the book and I am glad I haven't yet ordered it, by the way the price
for the book is up to $225.00 and the number of pages is 816 according
to the description on their web page.  So I think I'll wait on this
until a better book is recommended.



Robert & Jeanne 
Hee Sun Stained Glass
jkeane@erols.com
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From owner-glass Wed Nov 12 06:01:50 1997
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From: "Sheila" <pucky@ee.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Thanks
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 09:08:20 -0500
Message-ID: <199711121403.JAA29027@ee.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

THANKS to all who responded to my two questions!!!!  All the responses were a big help!
Keep those posting coming!  They are very informative!  Thanks again!  

Sheba
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From owner-glass Wed Nov 12 06:07:00 1997
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X-Path: memach.com!lcbell
From: Linda Campbell <lcbell@memach.com>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: RE: Looking for a patterns ... free, of course ;\
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 09:08:06 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov12.486.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Gecko, huh? Isn't that similar to a lizzard?
One of my Glass Patterns Quarterlys has a nice pattern. I'll look at it =
tonight. It you need just the issue number or a xerox copy, let me know =
and I'll send it along.

Linda

----------
From: 	M.-J. Taylor[SMTP:athena@netrox.net]
Sent: 	Tuesday, November 11, 1997 6:44 PM
To: 	glass@bungi.com
Subject: 	Looking for a patterns ... free, of course ;\


>	A friend wants me to make her a frog suncatcher as a gift for her
>mom.=20

That reminds me, I've been trying to find a gecko pattern for a mosaic I
want to make ... a stained glass pattern will work equally well. Indeed, =
I
probably will make a couple of stepping stones to match as well.=20

I've drawn a couple and I just don't love how they're coming out ... the
curve of the body is giving me trouble! :\ Any help would be greatly
appreciated!

Thanks!

M.-J.
****What I write is just what *I* think. Take what *you* like and leave =
the
rest.****

M.-J. Taylor=20
<athena@bridge.net>=20

Although we cannot change the direction of the wind,
              we can adjust our sails. (Unknown)

=20
                                              |\                ( )
 _____________________________________________|_\_____________________
                                              -----             -_-_
                                                               -- - -
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From owner-glass Wed Nov 12 06:10:19 1997
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X-Path: memach.com!lcbell
From: Linda Campbell <lcbell@memach.com>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: RE: 3-d squiggles
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 09:11:22 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov12.41122.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Try turning your search engine to knots, knot tying, and celtic knots. =
Somewhere I saw a nice page with computer generated knots and such. Just =
a thought.

Linda

P.s. Thanks for the advice about the lighthouse platform.=20

----------
From: 	M. Savad[SMTP:morn@nac.net]
Sent: 	Tuesday, November 11, 1997 8:17 PM
To: 	glass@bungi.com
Subject: 	3-d squiggles

here's an odd request, but maybe someone here might know of a site. i
need 3-d squiggles. i need to get ideas for the project i'm working on,
i need some inspiration. the shape would be simaler to soft speggetti on
it's end. i'm just having problems visualizing it.=20

i could even use, maybe a geometetry shape page.

---Mike Savad

--=20
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
 New Pages Added: Over 40 new stained glass links, Tips: How To Set Up A
Shop, and My adventures with the Aliens.
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From owner-glass Wed Nov 12 06:21:03 1997
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X-Path: memach.com!lcbell
From: Linda Campbell <lcbell@memach.com>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: RE: Numerous posts
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 09:21:23 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov12.42123.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Every one in favor of this, raise your left finger - OFF the mouse =
button. I for one have been on a list for weaving. Everything came once =
a day and it was a day before you got response to your questions. It was =
overwelming to me and I did not get the same since of <now> and =
conversation that I get from bungi the way it is right now. I vote keep =
it like it is.

Linda Campbell

----------
From: 	dsj@io.com[SMTP:dsj@io.com]
Sent: 	Tuesday, November 11, 1997 9:24 PM
To: 	glass@bungi.com
Subject: 	Numerous posts

I enjoy this newsgroup, and don't want to discourage any of the =
wonderful
discussion, but posit the following for your consideration:  I work all
day, come home, check my e-mail, and recently have been finding 50+
messages only from bungi.  Most of which I never get to, because there =
just
isn't time.

Please keep this in mind as you post; if even a few people could cut =
back
from six or eight postings a day to two or three, even if they =
consolidate,
I'd be able to keep up & enjoy all this.

As it is, I'm on the verge of unsubscribing, due to critical mass.
Thanks for your time.


----
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From owner-glass Wed Nov 12 06:48:30 1997
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X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: pattern paper
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 09:34:52 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov12.43452.0>
References: <<v01530501b08eb90a769d@[206.224.81.176]>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Diane Jacobs wrote:
> 
> >i've used 3-M transparency sheets and cover sheets. every so often they
> >send me some free samples, along with a card for more free samples, and
> >it's kind of endless... anyway, i've used the things (acetate
> >basically), for covering my paper pattern so it does'nt get wet. and
> >for  the odd pattern as well.
> >
> >---Mike Savad
> >
> 
> Mike, how did you get on that mailing list?
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


http://www.mmm.com i believe is their address. a while ago they offered
a bunch of free samples. i so often, sometimes under different names.
apparently they don't check their database, and i get 2-5 sets of
samples every now and then. everything from post-it notes, to flags, to
those plastic sheets. i would cruise there, and see if you can get a
catalog or something from them, maybe that wuold work.

---Mike Savad

or try http://www.3m.com 


-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
 New Pages Added: Over 40 new stained glass links, Tips: How To Set Up A
Shop, and My adventures with the Aliens.
----
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From owner-glass Wed Nov 12 06:48:53 1997
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X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Taurus II ring saw
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 09:42:53 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov12.44253.0>
References: <<v03007808b08ebfa8a202@[206.29.84.136]>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Di Baker wrote:
> 
> Whoops! My new Taurus ring saw arrived late last night & I am so thrilled
> with this purchase. I also love to handcut alot of my glass but am glad to
> see that I now have this option when I need to do thos e more difficult
> cuts that I don't feel comfortable with as yet (((:
> 
> So I read the instructions...nothing about CLEANING )): Did I overlook? How
> often do I have to change water? Do you really need ice all the time on the
> left hand side? Is it safe to dump the water down the loo?
> 
> I know alot of questions. Thank you Glass Crafters for such wonderful fast
> service!
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~*~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~*
>                 _ |\_
>                 \` ..\   Di Baker       <rbaker@abelink.com>
>            __,.-" =__Y=  Kitties--Bogie Blue, Chanel Blue, Sarah,
>    jgs   ."        )              Tornado, Cagney
>    _    /   ,    \/\_    Wanna see how cute we are? Visit us at:
>   ((____|    )_-\ \_-`   http://www.islandnet.com/~jbrooks/di1.htm
>   `-----'`-----` `--`
> ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~*~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~*
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


i hav'nt had it for a long time, but here's what i know:

1. the ice is only meant if your going to do alot of cutting. i think
the cold water keeps the blade slightly tighter, and supposley cuts
better. i personally hav'nt tried this yet.

2. to clean, you need to unplug it, remove the grid, and dump out the
water. a vagetable type sprayer (the hose on your sink), works pretty
well in washing any slime out. just make sure to fill up to that line
with water again.

3. i just dump my water down the drain. a toilet may fill to quickly.
but i also don't have a septic system, and there may be different rules
for that.

and taurus has a web site http://www.geminisaw.com/ they could answer
the questions you might have. i've already met jesse the inventor of the
saw he's a nice guy...

---Mike Savad


-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
 New Pages Added: Over 40 new stained glass links, Tips: How To Set Up A
Shop, and My adventures with the Aliens.
----
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From owner-glass Wed Nov 12 07:41:50 1997
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X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Numerous posts
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 10:38:54 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov12.53854.0>
References: <<1997Nov12.42123.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
 New Pages Added: Over 40 new stained glass links, Tips: How To Set Up A
Shop, and My adventures with the Aliens.
Linda Campbell wrote:
> 
> Every one in favor of this, raise your left finger - OFF the mouse =
> button. I for one have been on a list for weaving. Everything came once =
> a day and it was a day before you got response to your questions. It was =
> overwelming to me and I did not get the same since of <now> and =
> conversation that I get from bungi the way it is right now. I vote keep =
> it like it is.
> 
> Linda Campbell
> 
> ----------
> From:   dsj@io.com[SMTP:dsj@io.com]
> Sent:   Tuesday, November 11, 1997 9:24 PM
> To:     glass@bungi.com
> Subject:        Numerous posts
> 
> I enjoy this newsgroup, and don't want to discourage any of the =
> wonderful
> discussion, but posit the following for your consideration:  I work all
> day, come home, check my e-mail, and recently have been finding 50+
> messages only from bungi.  Most of which I never get to, because there =
> just
> isn't time.
> 
> Please keep this in mind as you post; if even a few people could cut =
> back
> from six or eight postings a day to two or three, even if they =
> consolidate,
> I'd be able to keep up & enjoy all this.
> 
> As it is, I'm on the verge of unsubscribing, due to critical mass.
> Thanks for your time.
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> 
> ----
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> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


by left finger, do you mead middle finger?... :)  anyway, i was'nt
planning on changing my format. ya read, what ya can read...

---Mike Savad
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From owner-glass Wed Nov 12 07:44:19 1997
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X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: 3-d squiggles
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 10:42:19 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov12.54219.0>
References: <<1997Nov12.41122.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Linda Campbell wrote:
> 
> Try turning your search engine to knots, knot tying, and celtic knots. =
> Somewhere I saw a nice page with computer generated knots and such. Just =
> a thought.
> 
> Linda
> 
> P.s. Thanks for the advice about the lighthouse platform.=20
> 
> ----------
> From:   M. Savad[SMTP:morn@nac.net]
> Sent:   Tuesday, November 11, 1997 8:17 PM
> To:     glass@bungi.com
> Subject:        3-d squiggles
> 
> here's an odd request, but maybe someone here might know of a site. i
> need 3-d squiggles. i need to get ideas for the project i'm working on,
> i need some inspiration. the shape would be simaler to soft speggetti on
> it's end. i'm just having problems visualizing it.=20
> 
> i could even use, maybe a geometetry shape page.
> 
> ---Mike Savad
> 
> --=20
> Mike's Stained Glass
> http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
>  New Pages Added: Over 40 new stained glass links, Tips: How To Set Up A
> Shop, and My adventures with the Aliens.
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> 
> ----
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> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


knots, and celtic knots, was an idea i had in mind. basically i keep
seeing "dancing speggetti". these are going to be armaturs, that will be
on the lower part of the lamp base (which will hold the whole lamp up.
basically i need bent pillars, they have to look good, look like they
belong, and be strong enough to support the entire lamp. 

the whole lamp will have an "ancient-future" look. kind of like when
someone makes a picture of atlantis, though it has flying cars, the
basic construction is shown as giant blocks.

i have about a dozen ideas in my head right now for this section....

---Mike Savad

-- 
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http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
 New Pages Added: Over 40 new stained glass links, Tips: How To Set Up A
Shop, and My adventures with the Aliens.
----
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From owner-glass Wed Nov 12 07:47:42 1997
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X-Path: webtv.net!GlassGuru
From: GlassGuru@webtv.net
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; CHARSET=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Taurus II ring saw/sludge
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 07:46:58 -0800
Message-ID: <199711121546.HAA28046@mailtod-121.bryant.webtv.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Dumping the water from your grinder or saw down the sink? Glass sludge
will settle and become somewhat hard even in water. The same holds true
for washing your project in the sink and having any little tiny solder
balls go down the drain. If you don't mind the plumber making trips to
your house then go ahead.
Otherwise, rinse your grinder or saw out in a container and dispose of
the sludge to the landfill or garbage, not down the drain or even
outside. The last thing you'd want is your pet licking up water that has
glass sludge in it.
Cody

The "GlassGuru"
The Ralph Nader of Glass
Crusader of truths & commentary.
".....and a really neat guy!"
See me at:
www.suresite.com/or/g/glassguru
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From owner-glass Wed Nov 12 08:13:19 1997
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X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Taurus II ring saw/sludge
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 11:11:08 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov12.6118.0>
References: <<199711121546.HAA28046@mailtod-121.bryant.webtv.net>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

GlassGuru@webtv.net wrote:
> 
> Dumping the water from your grinder or saw down the sink? Glass sludge
> will settle and become somewhat hard even in water. The same holds true
> for washing your project in the sink and having any little tiny solder
> balls go down the drain. If you don't mind the plumber making trips to
> your house then go ahead.
> Otherwise, rinse your grinder or saw out in a container and dispose of
> the sludge to the landfill or garbage, not down the drain or even
> outside. The last thing you'd want is your pet licking up water that has
> glass sludge in it.
> Cody
> 
> The "GlassGuru"
> The Ralph Nader of Glass
> Crusader of truths & commentary.
> ".....and a really neat guy!"
> See me at:
> www.suresite.com/or/g/glassguru
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

wehn i empty my grinder, i always scrape up as much as the goop as i
can, then sponge the rest out. generally i dpn't have enough glass goo
in the bandsaw to worry about stuff like that. usually i put my spray
head on high, and blast the drain with water, after dumping anything.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
 New Pages Added: Over 40 new stained glass links, Tips: How To Set Up A
Shop, and My adventures with the Aliens.
----
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From owner-glass Wed Nov 12 09:37:26 1997
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X-Path: netrox.net!athena
From: "M.-J. Taylor" <athena@netrox.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Numerous posts (offtopic)
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 12:37:34 -0500
Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.19971112123734.00714d30@pop.netrox.net>
References: <<v01530506b08ec29ab5da@[206.224.81.73]>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

dsj@io.com wrote an unsigned message which suggested the traffic is too
heavy around bungi.com ...

Dear dsj,

I appreciate your concern, but I get so much out of this list ... I would
be sorry to see the messages abate at all, even the ones that are slightly
or very off-topic.

I belong to about 6 lists on various topics, some have more some have less
traffic than this list. I make judicious use of the Delete button and I use
filters so I can read mail on glass or whatever only when convenient. I
know not everyone can filter their email ... but Pegasus is free for those
who have regular Internet access and don't want to spring for Eudora Pro
(which is a dream email client). I've used Pegasus, too, and it's a
terrific program, too.

AOLers get five user names and could devote one user name to the list or
lists ...so that list mail isn't mixed in the same InBox as personal mail. 

Just a suggestion or two for those who find the traffic hard to manage.

At 08:24 PM 11/11/97 -0600, you wrote:
>I enjoy this newsgroup, and don't want to discourage any of the wonderful
>discussion, but ... recently have been finding 50+
>messages only from bungi.  Most of which I never get to, because there just
>isn't time....




****What I write is just what *I* think. Take what *you* like and leave the
rest.****

M.-J. Taylor 
<athena@bridge.net> 

Although we cannot change the direction of the wind,
              we can adjust our sails. (Unknown)

 
                                              |\                ( )
 _____________________________________________|_\_____________________
                                              -----             -_-_
                                                               -- - -
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From owner-glass Wed Nov 12 09:46:42 1997
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X-Path: computer.net!alewis
From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@computer.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Stained Glass Book
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@computer.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 12:53:34 +0000
Message-ID: <199711121746.MAA24842@ns.computer.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


> Albert ,
> As usual thanks for the excellent information. I checked out the review
> of the book and I am glad I haven't yet ordered it, by the way the price
> for the book is up to $225.00 and the number of pages is 816 

Hmm. Well, the big binder full of stuff that was reviewed had a 
different page count, I guess. And I *thought the price seemed low 
compared to what I'd remembered seeing recently. Perhaps they pulled 
a bunch of stuff (the beauty of binders) and upped the price. Who 
knows?

Albert

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From owner-glass Wed Nov 12 10:41:28 1997
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X-Path: remc7.k12.mi.us!slamb
From: Sally Lamb <slamb@remc7.k12.mi.us>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Numerous Posts
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 13:38:35 -0500
Message-ID: <199711121839.NAA02016@server.remc7.k12.mi.us>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I'm happy with the way things are now. Please don't change!

Sally
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From owner-glass Wed Nov 12 10:53:02 1997
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X-Path: net-magic.net!tcn
From: tcn@net-magic.net (Boatwright, Walter)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Frogs
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 13:42:01 -0800
Message-ID: <1997Nov12.5421.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: The Glass Safari
Precedence: bulk

Try the Spectrum Site they had several while back.	
Walter
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From owner-glass Wed Nov 12 13:33:12 1997
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X-Path: juno.com!jroey
From: jroey@juno.com (Jerri M Roey)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Pebeo paints
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 16:21:29 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov12.112129.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi,

	Today's my first attempt at painting on glass with the paints
that bake on the glass in the oven.  Nothing too complicated, just frog
eyes.  Has anyone tried the plastic tubes with the metal tips for
outlining?  I think Pebeo makes them too.  Since I can't seem to get a
real steady line, I was wondering if these work very well.  I always like
to ask before buying a "gadget".

thanks,
Jerri
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From owner-glass Wed Nov 12 14:00:45 1997
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X-Path: netrox.net!athena
From: "M.-J. Taylor" <athena@netrox.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Mirror
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 17:00:23 -0500
Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.19971112170023.0071f278@pop.netrox.net>
References: <<1997Nov12.5421.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hello all,

I'm having a frustrating day ... working on a mosaic mirror frame and using
mirror as 'tessarae' -- when I pulled the clear adhesive tape back, many of
the tessarae came, too! I've never had this happen with tile -- :(. I
assume the problem has to do with how smooth the back of mirror is compared
with tile.

I didn't do this stepping stone style -- because I want to grout between
the mirror tessarae -- so I made a form around hardibacker, poured cement
and pressed my assembled pattern gently onto the cement. FWIW, I also
learned not to use mirror with a thickness less than 1/8" -- I've had to
scrape cement from between the tessarae to make room for grout.

Any feedback and ideas for the next round are more than welcome! I plan to
make a couple of these for Christmas presents.

Thanks!

M.-J.


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From owner-glass Wed Nov 12 15:34:55 1997
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X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: "INTERNET:glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Two Questions
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 18:33:06 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov12.13336.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Message text written by Sheba:
>   Next question is this if I put my work in a Consignment Shop.....as I=

said I am a
beginner...what is a good percentage like 75/25....80/20?  Right now I ju=
st
want to get my work out
there to be seen.  I live in the  Ohio area.   <

Can't help you with the sandblasting question, but sure can
with the consignment question.

What do you mean by "Consignment Shop"?  If it's an art gallery
where stained glass compliments other artworks, you can expect
to get 60% and the gallery owner receives 40%.  Some galleries
do 50/50, but I would rather do wholesale for that small of a percent.

Now, if by "Consignment Shop" you mean those craft malls whereby
you rent a space and place your goods inside and the craft mall
takes a percentage to cover advertising, credit card processing,
etc....  Then don't agree to more than 10% for them.  Remember,
they're already making money by charging you rent, so they shouldn't
also get too much of your 'cut' of the money.

I started with the craft malls, and rapidly realized by type of
contemporary stained glass looked real out-of-place next to
the crows-on-a-stick wooden crafts and knitted-pink-ketchup-bottle-
covers.  Country and contemporary should not be mixed.  It
does nothing for either style.  So, research your market prior to
shelling out cash for the rent in a place which is not suited to
your product line.  Been there, done that.  Am making a heck of
a lot more $$ by going with up-scale art galleries.

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
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From owner-glass Wed Nov 12 15:35:30 1997
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X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: "INTERNET:glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Froggy inside curves
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 18:32:55 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov12.133255.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Yea, that tree frog pattern from Spectrum is a good one.  You can =

'fudge' the design a bit and make the inside curves less steep.
Make sure you choose nice, friendly glass like green cathedral
to make the cutting more predictable, and warm the glass prior
to cutting.
Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
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From owner-glass Wed Nov 12 16:25:40 1997
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X-Path: voicenet.com!hilary
From: "Hilary A. Bobker" <hilary@voicenet.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: sorry
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 19:25:04 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov12.14254.0>
References: <<1997Nov11.43837.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: HABit Fashion Services
Precedence: bulk

Please forgive me for posting yet another misguided REMOVE note to the
list. In a fit of pique, I replied without thinking...hummmm, replying
without thinking is my second favorite hobby! :-)

Hilary
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From owner-glass Wed Nov 12 16:26:28 1997
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From: "Hilary A. Bobker" <hilary@voicenet.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Subscribe
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 19:26:14 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov12.142614.0>
References: <<1997Nov9.24233.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: HABit Fashion Services
Precedence: bulk

Glenna, if I got removed, would you please put me back on the list?
Thanks,
Hilary
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From owner-glass Wed Nov 12 17:44:16 1997
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X-Path: netcom.ca!mfig
From: "mikey friggy" <mfig@netcom.ca>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Re: Froggy inside curves
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 20:44:01 -0500
Message-ID: <199711130142.UAA24101@tor-srs1.netcom.ca>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Glad you enjoyed the frog pattern. If you dig deeper at the Spectrum site
you'll find several more that we have contributed over the years (yes, I
have a special affinity for frogs- 12 year old scotch as well but that's
another story) As for your colour selection for the frog, I think the use
of a ring mottle from Bullseye (6000 series) or Uroboros would be more
suitable.
Fantasy In Glass, 703 The Queensway, Toronto, Canada (Tel:416-252-6868)
Canada's first and still only officially sanctioned stained glass supplier.

----------
From: Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: INTERNET:glass@bungi.com
Subject: Froggy inside curves
Date: Wednesday, November 12, 1997 6:32 PM

Yea, that tree frog pattern from Spectrum is a good one.  You can =

'fudge' the design a bit and make the inside curves less steep.
Make sure you choose nice, friendly glass like green cathedral
to make the cutting more predictable, and warm the glass prior
to cutting.
Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
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From owner-glass Wed Nov 12 18:21:37 1997
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From: "Tyler, Roger D." <rogert@matnet.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: %'age Consignment
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 17:19:30 -0800
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Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


At 06:33 PM 11/12/97 -0500, you wrote:
>Message text written by Sheba:
>>   Next question is this if I put my work in a Consignment Shop.....as I=
>said I am a beginner...what is a good percentage like 75/25....80/20?  Right now I 
>just want to get my work out there to be seen.  I live in the  Ohio area.   <
>

I think you'll find each area of the states slightly different.  Here in Alaska I have paid from 30% to 35% for consignm't in st'glass shops. Sometimes the percentage changes depending on the size (and therefore price) of the items.  Some stained glass shops will give you a higher pecentage if you take it in 'trade' rather than cash, not a bad deal if you buy from them anyway. I'd suggest asking at all the local stained glass shops, gift shops, art galaries, flower shops, or whatever you are interested in. There shouldn't be a lot of diff. in them (here in Alaska I have found the 'gift' shops charge the most).  If there is, go with the one that gives you the best deal (just be sure that they can sell the glass. I agree with Christie, I would not go for 50/50 (or even 60/40!) but I guess it depends on how badly you want to sell your stuff. Good Luck.

Rojean,
Alaska
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From owner-glass Wed Nov 12 18:33:39 1997
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X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: sorry
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 21:31:23 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov12.163123.0>
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Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hilary A. Bobker wrote:
> 
> Please forgive me for posting yet another misguided REMOVE note to the
> list. In a fit of pique, I replied without thinking...hummmm, replying
> without thinking is my second favorite hobby! :-)
> 
> Hilary
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


yeah, slowly eveyone who unsubscribed about a dozen or so by my count,
will soon relize there accident, and will be coming back on... :) but
for those who may have left before the annoucement, my page is updated
again http://www.geocities.com/paris/1141

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
 New Pages Added: Over 40 new stained glass links, Tips: How To Set Up A
Shop, and My adventures with the Aliens.
----
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From owner-glass Wed Nov 12 18:51:07 1997
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From: byronw@cyberramp.net
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Looking for a patterns ... free, of course ;\
Summary: Authenticated sender is <byronw@cyberramp.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 20:50:30 +0000
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> From:          "M.-J. Taylor" <athena@netrox.net>
> To:            glass@bungi.com
> Subject:       Looking for a patterns ... free, of course ;\
> Date:          Tue, 11 Nov 1997 18:44:49 -0500
> Reply-to:      glass@bungi.com

> 
> >	A friend wants me to make her a frog suncatcher as a gift for her
> >mom. 
> 
> That reminds me, I've been trying to find a gecko pattern for a mosaic I
> want to make ... a stained glass pattern will work equally well. Indeed, I
> probably will make a couple of stepping stones to match as well. 
> 
> I've drawn a couple and I just don't love how they're coming out ... the
> curve of the body is giving me trouble! :\ Any help would be greatly
> appreciated!
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> M.-J.

Check out the Spectrum Glass site M.J... They had several frogs in 
thier free patterns area...
 
Byron...

Wells Glassworks
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From owner-glass Wed Nov 12 20:46:28 1997
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From: clipper1@erols.com
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Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Looking for a patterns ... free, of course ;\
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 23:51:51 -0500 (EST)
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Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


I don't know  if they are quite geckos, but I've always liked the Escher
lizards - you might find a picture and use thta as a starting point for tracing
the outline of a gecko pattern.

Carol

At 06:44 PM 11/11/97 -0500, you wrote:
>
>>	A friend wants me to make her a frog suncatcher as a gift for her
>>mom. 
>
>That reminds me, I've been trying to find a gecko pattern for a mosaic I
>want to make ... a stained glass pattern will work equally well. Indeed, I
>probably will make a couple of stepping stones to match as well. 
>
>I've drawn a couple and I just don't love how they're coming out ... the
>curve of the body is giving me trouble! :\ Any help would be greatly
>appreciated!
>
>Thanks!
>
>M.-J.
>****What I write is just what *I* think. Take what *you* like and leave the
>rest.****
>
>M.-J. Taylor 
><athena@bridge.net> 
>
>Although we cannot change the direction of the wind,
>              we can adjust our sails. (Unknown)
>
> 
>                                              |\                ( )
> _____________________________________________|_\_____________________
>                                              -----             -_-_
>                                                               -- - -
>----
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>
>
>

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From owner-glass Thu Nov 13 06:06:51 1997
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X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: "INTERNET:glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Re: Froggy inside curves
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 1997 09:03:40 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov13.4340.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

>As for your colour selection for the frog, I think the use
of a ring mottle from Bullseye (6000 series) or Uroboros would be more
suitable.<

Yes, I agree with using ring mottle or Uroboros glass would be more
suitable,
but the question was not one of color, but of help in cutting and foiling=

tight
inside curves.  Therefore my suggestion of a nice, friendly cutting glass=

like
a cathedral.  Ring mottle and most thick opaque glass is not terribly
friendly
to deep inside cuts, particularly when there might be 4 of these on one
piece.

Just my $.02 worth.  BTW, there are some really nice tree frog patterns i=
n
the
"Australian Bush Babies" pattern book!
Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
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From owner-glass Thu Nov 13 06:30:25 1997
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From: CColdfeet@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Exotic Animal Auction
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 1997 09:29:29 -0500 (EST)
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Please "remove" me from your mailing list.
Thank you
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From owner-glass Thu Nov 13 06:59:20 1997
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From: "M.-J. Taylor" <athena@netrox.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Tips on Spectrum site search, please
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 1997 09:59:21 -0500
Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.19971113095921.006dec0c@pop.netrox.net>
References: <<199711130142.UAA24101@tor-srs1.netcom.ca>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

At 08:44 PM 11/12/97 -0500, you wrote:
>Glad you enjoyed the frog pattern. If you dig deeper at the Spectrum site
>you'll find several more that we have contributed over the years 


I guess I need some special tutoring. I can find very few patterns on
Spectrum ... and would love to have some help or tips on searching the site.

Thanks!

M.-J.


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From owner-glass Thu Nov 13 07:25:38 1997
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X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Tips on Spectrum site search, please
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 1997 10:23:03 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov13.5233.0>
References: <<3.0.1.32.19971113095921.006dec0c@pop.netrox.net>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

M.-J. Taylor wrote:
> 
> At 08:44 PM 11/12/97 -0500, you wrote:
> >Glad you enjoyed the frog pattern. If you dig deeper at the Spectrum site
> >you'll find several more that we have contributed over the years
> 
> I guess I need some special tutoring. I can find very few patterns on
> Spectrum ... and would love to have some help or tips on searching the site.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> M.-J.
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


i think it's just all under pattens in the side menu.

---Mike Savad

-- 
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http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
 New Pages Added: Over 40 new stained glass links, Tips: How To Set Up A
Shop, and My adventures with the Aliens.
----
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From owner-glass Thu Nov 13 07:55:45 1997
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X-Path: juno.com!glass_artist
From: glass_artist@juno.com (Lori J Maas)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re:Numerous Posts...an idea
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 1997 09:49:48 -0600
Message-ID: <1997Nov13.34948.0>
References: <<02041115568650@sure.net>>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


Here's an idea for the folks who might not want to be overwhelmed by
bungi posts at the end of the day:
I have a free, stand-alone mail program called Juno. There are even a lot
of free web based email sites available now. The only thing I use this
site for is my mail lists. That way if I'm unable to sign on for a couple
of days all of the Bungi posts won't be all mixed in with emails that I
need to be reading right away or orders from my web page.

It won't stop the number of posts, but it makes it a little easier to
organize.
Hope it helps,
LJ

________________________________________________________________________________________

LJ Maas, owner & artist can be reached at:  artist@busprod.com
ART WITH ATTITUDE Stained Glass Design :
<http://www.art-with-attitude.com/glass/artglass.html>
"Unique & handcrafted gift items"
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From owner-glass Thu Nov 13 10:30:00 1997
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X-Path: prodigy.com!YWAH36A
From: YWAH36A@prodigy.com ( BOB   DUCHESNEAU)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Froggy inside curves
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 1997 13:24:37, -0500
Message-ID: <199711131824.NAA08464@mime4.prodigy.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Doing something like a frogs foot in stained glass is a real problem. 
My solution is to cut the several pieces, overlap them slightly and 
then fuse them in a kiln. Several small fused pieces in a window can 
add much interest and realism as well as value. Stained glass studios 
with a kiln will be (or at least should be) glad to fire these pieces 
for a small fee. There are kilns available that have firing chambers 
as small as three inches that can do the work for pennies.
Bob

____
Bob Duchesneau (You've got to be smarter than the gear you're working 
with.) Mountain Meadow Stained Glass, 26746 Mountain Meadow Road, 
Escondido, CA 92026 Voice (760) 749-3966 FAX (760) 749-6427
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From owner-glass Thu Nov 13 11:39:52 1997
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X-Path: matnet.com!rogert
From: "Tyler, Roger D." <rogert@matnet.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Tips on Spectrum site/reply
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 1997 10:36:49 -0800
Message-ID: <1.5.4.32.19971113183649.0067a444@primary.matnet.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi M.- J.

There are a total of 98 patterns on the Spectrum site.  Use the slider in the left frame of the site, there will be numbers 1 thru 11 below the word 'PATTERNS', click on these numbers to bring up one page at a time. Each page shows 9 pattern pictures.  To download the patterns you will need to download Adobe Acrobat first (if you don't aleady have it). I glanced thru the pages (which I have printed out for quick ref) and found five frog patterns.

Good Luck

Rojean
Alaska
----------------

At 09:59 AM 11/13/97 -0500, you wrote:
>At 08:44 PM 11/12/97 -0500, you wrote:
>>Glad you enjoyed the frog pattern. If you dig deeper at the Spectrum site
>>you'll find several more that we have contributed over the years 
>
>
>I guess I need some special tutoring. I can find very few patterns on
>Spectrum ... and would love to have some help or tips on searching the site.
>
>Thanks!
>
>M.-J.
>
>
>----
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>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
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From owner-glass Thu Nov 13 12:40:47 1997
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X-Path: juno.com!jroey
From: jroey@juno.com (Jerri M Roey)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Froggy inside curves
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 1997 15:33:15 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov13.103315.0>
References: <<199711131824.NAA08464@mime4.prodigy.com>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

	My retailer just opened up last year, and just last month got a
couple of kilns and will be offering a fusing class in Jan.   I'm really
excited about learning about this and incorporating in into projects.  He
wasn't sure what he's going to do about renting kiln time, but I sure
hope he comes up with something so I can use it once in a while.  For
now, I'm just going to do the best I can on the frog feet.  (I got the
head done, but haven't gotten to the feet yet.)

Jerri


On Thu, 13 Nov 1997 13:24:37, -0500 YWAH36A@prodigy.com ( BOB  
DUCHESNEAU) writes:
>Doing something like a frogs foot in stained glass is a real problem. 
>My solution is to cut the several pieces, overlap them slightly and 
>then fuse them in a kiln. Several small fused pieces in a window can 
>add much interest and realism as well as value. Stained glass studios 
>with a kiln will be (or at least should be) glad to fire these pieces 
>for a small fee. There are kilns available that have firing chambers 
>as small as three inches that can do the work for pennies.
>Bob
>
>____
>Bob Duchesneau (You've got to be smarter than the gear you're working 
>with.) Mountain Meadow Stained Glass, 26746 Mountain Meadow Road, 
>Escondido, CA 92026 Voice (760) 749-3966 FAX (760) 749-6427
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
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X-Path: aol.com!AlexG2
From: AlexG2@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Morse Museum (location info)
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 1997 17:02:56 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov13.12256.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hello,

Gee its nice to be able to contribute.  I'm learning so much from you guys.
 I was in Orlando last week and we plan to go back next month.  I plan to
visit the Morse Museum next month!

According to the phone book, the Morse Museum is located at 133 E. Welbourne
Ave. Winter Park, FL.  phone: 407-645-5311.

Alex Gacic

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From owner-glass Thu Nov 13 14:27:52 1997
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X-Path: inspace.net!herba
From: "Herb Adler" <herba@inspace.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Morse Museum (location info)
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 1997 17:26:15 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov13.122615.0>
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Precedence: bulk

Let's hear from you after your visit for your opinion on the museum!
-----Original Message-----
From: AlexG2@aol.com <AlexG2@aol.com>
To: glass@bungi.com <glass@bungi.com>
Date: Thursday, November 13, 1997 5:23 PM
Subject: Re: Morse Museum (location info)


>Hello,
>
>Gee its nice to be able to contribute.  I'm learning so much from you guys.
> I was in Orlando last week and we plan to go back next month.  I plan to
>visit the Morse Museum next month!
>
>According to the phone book, the Morse Museum is located at 133 E.
Welbourne
>Ave. Winter Park, FL.  phone: 407-645-5311.
>
>Alex Gacic
>
>----
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>

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From owner-glass Thu Nov 13 16:09:16 1997
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X-Path: mwt.net!alcamoz
From: "len alcamo" <alcamoz@mwt.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: back on list 
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 1997 18:17:25 -0600
Message-ID: <1997Nov13.121725.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0040_01BCF060.64ACBCA0
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

For some mysterious reason I found myself at the current bungi =
archive.... can't explain it.... kinda like a=20
Ouije board thing.

Anyway, after reading through some posts with familiar names (and some =
interesting posts with new names)  it turns out that  gosh darn it, I  =
missed you guys   :-)

Looking forward to making a positive contribution.=20


Len


=20





------=_NextPart_000_0040_01BCF060.64ACBCA0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.71.1712.3"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>For some mysterious reason I found myself at the =
current bungi=20
archive.... can't explain it.... kinda like a </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Ouije board thing.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Anyway, after reading through some =
posts with=20
familiar names (and some interesting posts with new names)&nbsp; it =
turns out=20
that&nbsp; gosh darn it, I&nbsp; missed you guys</FONT>&nbsp;&nbsp; =
:-)</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Looking forward to making a positive =

contribution. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Len</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp;</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0040_01BCF060.64ACBCA0--

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From owner-glass Thu Nov 13 17:48:54 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!JAnder9073
From: JAnder9073@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Tips on Spectrum site search, please
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 1997 20:46:46 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov13.154646.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

In a message dated 97-11-13 10:56:21 EST, you write:

<< Reply >>
I am just learning how to use aol. I did not view any glass things.  I
clicked on them, but nothing happened.  I don't know how I got this message
from you or who you are for sure.  I would love to get some stained glass
patterns and learn more.

Janer
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From owner-glass Thu Nov 13 18:20:29 1997
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X-Path: ebtech.net!proffire
From: "Doug Scale" <proffire@ebtech.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Re: Froggy inside curves
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 1997 21:13:21 -0500
Message-ID: <199711140222.VAA16340@sleepy.ebtech.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk



----------
> From: mikey friggy <mfig@netcom.ca>
> To: glass@bungi.com
> Subject: Re: Froggy inside curves
> Date: Wednesday, November 12, 1997 8:44 PM
> 
> .
> Fantasy In Glass, 703 The Queensway, Toronto, Canada
(Tel:416-252-6868)
> Canada's first and still only officially sanctioned stained glass
supplier.
> 
> ----------
> 
Mike,

Awhile back Albert asked about the "official sanctioned" status on
your signature.

Can't recall seeing an explanation.  What gives?  I'm sure other
Canadians on this list would like to know too.

Thanks,

Doug Scale
Fire Creations in Glass
Sarnia, Ontario
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From owner-glass Thu Nov 13 23:30:00 1997
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X-Path: flash.net!bunzie
From: Lori <bunzie@flash.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Vickie Paynes web site...
Date: Sat, 15 Nov 1997 02:27:18 -0800
Message-ID: <1997Nov14.182718.0>
References: <<1997Nov13.121725.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi all...

  At the risk of starting a virtual riot here with the whole Vickie
Payne thing again  <<ducking>>, I just visited her web site, and was
very disappointed.  It hasn't been updated since May, and there only TWO
projects in her whole "archive"...

  What's up with that?

~Lori
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From owner-glass Fri Nov 14 03:59:42 1997
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X-Path: net-magic.net!tcn
From: tcn@net-magic.net (Boatwright, Walter)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Vickie Paynes web site...
Date: Fri, 14 Nov 1997 06:57:47 -0800
Message-ID: <1997Nov13.225747.0>
References: <<1997Nov14.182718.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: The Glass Safari
Precedence: bulk

yes we bought some of her videos for resale and are very very unhappy with
them..Would not recommend them to any one....Walter

Lori wrote:

> Hi all...
>
>   At the risk of starting a virtual riot here with the whole Vickie
> Payne thing again  <<ducking>>, I just visited her web site, and was
> very disappointed.  It hasn't been updated since May, and there only TWO
> projects in her whole "archive"...
>
>   What's up with that?
>
> ~Lori
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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From owner-glass Fri Nov 14 10:43:02 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!MsChatee
From: MsChatee@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Temperature of Shop
Date: Fri, 14 Nov 1997 13:39:29 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov14.83929.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Right now I have my glass workshop set up in my basement.  Well I live in
Central NY and it's cold already.  The temperature today down there is 53
degrees,  I assume this is too cold to cut glass.  I brought up the pieces
I'll be cutting today, do I need to do this on a regular basis and what is
the lowest temperature that won't affect the glass.   Also will the cold
temperatures affect anything else like the Flux, polish, etc.  I don't have
any other place to set up and I prefer not to use a space heater since I'm
working not too far from the gas furnace.  Thanks for your input, any
feedback will be appreciated.

Caren
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From owner-glass Fri Nov 14 11:08:28 1997
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X-Path: compuserve.com!GreerStudios
From: "Michael J. Greer" <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: "INTERNET:glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: back on list
Date: Fri, 14 Nov 1997 14:05:42 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov14.9542.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Welcome back, Len!
Wondered if you'd dropped
off the planet.  We could
have used your considered
opinion in some recent
lively discussions!  Also,
the Chartres talk is starting
up again.

Best regards,

Dani Greer
Greer Gallery & Studios
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From owner-glass Fri Nov 14 11:19:08 1997
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X-Path: netrox.net!athena
From: "M.-J. Taylor" <athena@netrox.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Tips on Spectrum site/reply
Date: Fri, 14 Nov 1997 14:19:55 -0500
Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.19971114141955.006f2548@pop.netrox.net>
References: <<1.5.4.32.19971113183649.0067a444@primary.matnet.com>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Thanks!!! That's helpful ... I'll go try that now ... and it's geckos I'm
looking for, actually ... thanks to all those who have replied privately.
What a wonderful group this is!

Thanks, Glenna, for providing it!

Cheers,

M.-J.

At 10:36 AM 11/13/97 -0800, you wrote:
>Hi M.- J.
>
>There are a total of 98 patterns on the Spectrum site.  Use the slider in
the left frame of the site, there will be numbers 1 thru 11 below the word
'PATTERNS', click on these numbers to bring up one page at a time. Each
page shows 9 pattern pictures.  To download the patterns you will need to
download Adobe Acrobat first (if you don't aleady have it). I glanced thru
the pages (which I have printed out for quick ref) and found five frog
patterns.
>
>Good Luck
>
>Rojean
>Alaska


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From owner-glass Fri Nov 14 11:44:20 1997
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X-Path: lrkimball.com!cimerz
From: "Workstation483" <cimerz@lrkimball.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Re: Temperature of Shop
Date: Fri, 14 Nov 1997 14:43:10 -0500
Message-ID: <199711141941.OAA24088@lrklinux.lrkimball.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi, your friendly retailer here.  As to the temperature of glass, glass
cuts pretty well at most temperatures.  I suggest room temp. just because
it is what I am used to, but I have had success even in the cold (down to
about 40 degrees).

I wouldn't advise trying to foil until glass is room temp.

Flux will definitely react to cold and to humidity.  Humidity gives you
really terrible results - also, remember that flux has a shelf life.  I
suggest investing some time and a little money and buy several different
types of flux and try them.

My favorites are still Old Masters and Canfield Blue (for acid based) and I
like Fry's gel flux (Classicgel or whatever the name is).  Ruby fluid is
okay.

I don't recommend any other normal brands.  There is one other brand that
the name escapes me - it is really expensive comparitively, but is supposed
to be the best on the market.  After some more trial runs, will try to let
you know about it.

Polish is also something that should be done at room temp., better if it is
not too humid.  I prefer to let it dry overnight, anyway, so it works okay
in most weather conditions.

----------
> From: MsChatee@aol.com
> To: glass@bungi.com
> Subject: Temperature of Shop
> Date: Friday, November 14, 1997 1:39 PM
> 
> Right now I have my glass workshop set up in my basement.  Well I live in
> Central NY and it's cold already.  The temperature today down there is 53
> degrees,  I assume this is too cold to cut glass.  I brought up the
pieces
> I'll be cutting today, do I need to do this on a regular basis and what
is
> the lowest temperature that won't affect the glass.   Also will the cold
> temperatures affect anything else like the Flux, polish, etc.  I don't
have
> any other place to set up and I prefer not to use a space heater since
I'm
> working not too far from the gas furnace.  Thanks for your input, any
> feedback will be appreciated.
> 
> Caren
> ----
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From owner-glass Fri Nov 14 14:40:48 1997
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X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Temperature of Shop
Date: Fri, 14 Nov 1997 17:37:10 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov14.123710.0>
References: <<1997Nov14.83929.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

MsChatee@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Right now I have my glass workshop set up in my basement.  Well I live in
> Central NY and it's cold already.  The temperature today down there is 53
> degrees,  I assume this is too cold to cut glass.  I brought up the pieces
> I'll be cutting today, do I need to do this on a regular basis and what is
> the lowest temperature that won't affect the glass.   Also will the cold
> temperatures affect anything else like the Flux, polish, etc.  I don't have
> any other place to set up and I prefer not to use a space heater since I'm
> working not too far from the gas furnace.  Thanks for your input, any
> feedback will be appreciated.
> 
> Caren
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


the cold really should affect the glass to badly. even though glass
tends to cut better when warm. the main problem (besides shivering),
would be the foiling sticking to the glass. and the off chancce of the
glass going into thermal shock when soldering. but i can only see that
happening if the glass just came out of the snow.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
 New Pages Added: Over 40 new stained glass links, Tips: How To Set Up A
Shop, and My adventures with the Aliens.
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From owner-glass Fri Nov 14 16:13:08 1997
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	for rglass-42; Fri, 14 Nov 1997 16:11:44 -0800 (PST)
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X-Path: televar.com!fishbait
From: Fishbait <fishbait@televar.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Frozen Flux
Date: Fri, 14 Nov 1997 16:09:00 -0800
Message-ID: <1997Nov14.890.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I purchased some  liquid flux by mail order last winter and when it
arrived it was froze solid.  Thawed it out and it worked fine.  Plus my
glass room is out in the barn and is unheated unless I go out and turn
the heat on and so far haven't had a problem with any of the other
liquid products either.  Since I am in Washington State on the east side
of the mountains it gets down to about twenty below here at times so I
am sure the other things have froze and refroze numberous times too.  So
far it is all still working.
Bonnie Clark

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From owner-glass Fri Nov 14 17:59:46 1997
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	for rglass-42; Fri, 14 Nov 1997 17:58:50 -0800 (PST)
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X-Path: erols.com!jkeane
From: Hee Sun Stained Glass <jkeane@erols.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: bradley base lamps
Date: Fri, 14 Nov 1997 20:57:40 -0500
Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.19971114205740.0069f7e8@pop.erols.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

got a customer who wants a bradley base. can anyone tell me specifics on
the bases? ie: height of base, avg sq ft of glass needed, how long man
hours to complete? any tricks or tips would be helpful 

thanks!
Hee Sun Stained Glass
Robert & Jeanne Keane 	
(410) 833-3007
jkeane@erols.com

Jeanne L. Keane

O, Wind,
If Winter comes, can spring be far behind?
Percy Bysshe Shelley

A good farmer is nothing more nor less than a handy man with a good sense
of humus.
E.B. White

A woman is like a teabag--only in hot water do you realize how strong she is.
Nancy Reagan

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From owner-glass Fri Nov 14 20:16:24 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!Bubstah
From: Bubstah@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: pattern paper
Date: Fri, 14 Nov 1997 23:13:53 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov14.181353.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Really sounded to good to be true.  I tried http://www.mmm.com.  Not a
avialbe url at this time.  Sorry, would have loved to get some FREE samples
as I am sure most everyone else would.

Thanks for the info tho.

Bubstah@aol.com
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From owner-glass Fri Nov 14 21:11:54 1997
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X-Path: prodigy.com!YWAH36A
From: YWAH36A@prodigy.com ( BOB   DUCHESNEAU)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: 3M site
Date: Sat, 15 Nov 1997 00:09:23, -0500
Message-ID: <199711150509.AAA19926@mime4.prodigy.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

  Try http//www.3m.com to get to the start of the 3M site. AT: 
http://www.mmm.com/market/consumer/photogard/saleserv.html you will 
find a form to request product info. Does not say anything about 
samples but this must be it. Also you can go th the 3M POST-IT site 
from the first address and request product info. I use and like 3M 
products but do not need any free samples at this time.
  Did you know that in WIN95 you can go to the edit menu & copy the 
address off a screen & then paste it into your request for access? 
Makes going to long addresses a snap. You can try it with the second 
address above.
On most days I learn something, Bob
  

____
Bob Duchesneau (You've got to be smarter than the gear you're working 
with.) Mountain Meadow Stained Glass, 26746 Mountain Meadow Road, 
Escondido, CA 92026 Voice (760) 749-3966 FAX (760) 749-6427
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From owner-glass Sat Nov 15 04:19:47 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!IMN2GLASS2
From: IMN2GLASS2@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Vickie Paynes web site...
Date: Sat, 15 Nov 1997 07:17:43 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov15.21743.0>
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I gather that Vicki Payne is arather busy woman these days Lori.I also
noticed Suzanne Cooper's website hasn't been updated since...July! So I have
to guess that they are both very busy doing what they do best! Judy
(imn2glass2)
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From owner-glass Sat Nov 15 07:30:36 1997
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: pattern paper
Date: Sat, 15 Nov 1997 10:27:57 -0500
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Bubstah@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Really sounded to good to be true.  I tried http://www.mmm.com.  Not a
> avialbe url at this time.  Sorry, would have loved to get some FREE samples
> as I am sure most everyone else would.
> 
> Thanks for the info tho.
> 
> Bubstah@aol.com
> ----
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that's odd, worked today, also try http://www.3m.com it does'nt say free
samples, i don't think. but there is a survey there, that has a address
entry, maybe that will bring you in.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
 New Pages Added: Over 40 new stained glass links, Tips: How To Set Up A
Shop, and My adventures with the Aliens.
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From owner-glass Sat Nov 15 08:38:29 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!DMR74
From: DMR74@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Vickie Paynes web site...
Date: Sat, 15 Nov 1997 11:37:34 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov15.63734.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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Lori, 
you can't give just here a hard time about updateing,  MANY glsss sites don't
get updated often I get tired of going back sometimes.
deb
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From owner-glass Sat Nov 15 11:34:37 1997
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X-Path: infinet.com!glasscat
From: Carolyn Noel <glasscat@infinet.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: looking for info
Date: Sat, 15 Nov 1997 14:27:13 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov15.92713.0>
References: <<1997Nov5.14491.0>>
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Organization: Carolyn's Creations
Precedence: bulk

Could the "corduroy" glass be the Uroboros "fibroid"? That kind of
reminds me of corduroy. It comes in an evergreen shade and another shade
of green....can't remember right off hand. 
C Noel
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From owner-glass Sat Nov 15 11:50:16 1997
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From: Carolyn Noel <glasscat@infinet.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Re: Two Questions
Date: Sat, 15 Nov 1997 14:43:22 -0500
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I'm in a gallery in Dayton, OH, and the commission is 60/40.
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From owner-glass Sat Nov 15 14:31:31 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!AlexG2
From: AlexG2@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: An interesting glass ad
Date: Sat, 15 Nov 1997 17:29:09 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov15.12299.0>
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Hello everyone,

I recently ran across an ad in the UU World magazine which read:  1872
Universalist Stained Glass windows,  Church demolished, national register,
Norwalk, Ohio, Twelve windows, rose, double trinity, top condition, excellent
exterior, interior artifacts, photographs available.  Reasonable price, need
loving home.  Call 419-474-7084.

I just thought I would pass this along to anyone interested who may be in
that area.

Alex Gacic
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From owner-glass Sat Nov 15 16:05:18 1997
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Stained Glass Web Sites
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@mail.nildram.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 16 Nov 1997 01:01:07 +0000
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Keli,

I don't think anyone so far has commented on your painstaking efforts 
of  extrapolating our websites and putting them all down on ONE list.
You have got MINE quite right for a start!
Well done!
And... Thank you!
On reading comments that so-and-so's web-site hasn't been updated 
since May or June, I blush, because I don't think that my own has 
been ''properly'' updated since last year. The day has ONLY got sooo 
many hours. Right now I am  virtually on my hands and knees; beehave 
been teaching ALL week, EVERY day, got home at about 11 pm, thrown 
some food at Toby and ''snacked'' myself. Thursday night a small 
business in the village wanted me to do some computer work for them. 
THAT kept me up until 5 in the morning. Up again at 8, then teaching 
in the evening on Friday, got home at 10 pm, spent 2 hours packing 
the car for a workshop on Saturday  and crashed to bed; up at 6.30 to 
finish the packing, , arrived at the college at 8.30 to set up a full 
1-day workshop. Finished at 5 pm, cleaned up and arrived home at 6 
pm, not having sat down all day for even 5 minutes. I didn't even 
have time to change into another pair of shoes that I brought with me 
specially for the purpose. It's now 11 pm over here, my feet are 
killing me, I and Toby have only just finished eating and I fully 
intend to have a LATE Sunday  mornining, collect the Sunday Times 
from the village shop and just "blob".......
Time to clean up my photos  with my new ''baby'' cd-rom system to put 
more pixs on my web-site....... Somehow,  on a wet, misty, foggy AND 
wet Sunday morning, I feel  my big swivel/rocking chair by the fire, 
putting my poor feet up (high) with a glass of wine and the Sunday 
Times totally irresistable..... Sorry guys... I am terribly 
weak-minded and have NO back-bone!!!! Fire and Sunday Times will win 
hands over.....
Sigh.....
On Monday.... the whole circus starts all over again....
 Double sigh....

By the way, a snippet of interesting statistics from ''Ye Olde  
Country'' As of this month, according to a BBC research survey,  only 
26 per cent of the population in UK have computer at home..... That's 
about 25 per cent more than 18 months ago.... (my reckoning...)
 Elisabeth 'n Toby in UK
----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
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From owner-glass Sat Nov 15 16:06:09 1997
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: ''Sanctioned''
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@mail.nildram.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 16 Nov 1997 01:01:07 +0000
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 Well actually.... (blush)
So would a curious Swede stuck in the middle of rural UK...??? Gee 
whizz, , I wish I could say that for myself in UK.....
Would LOVe to know....



> Fantasy In Glass, 703 The Queensway, Toronto, Canada
(Tel:416-252-6868)
> Canada's first and still only officially sanctioned stained glass
supplier.
> 
> ----------
> 
Mike,

Awhile back Albert asked about the "official sanctioned" status on
your signature.

Can't recall seeing an explanation.  What gives?  I'm sure other
Canadians on this list would like to know too.

Thanks,

Doug Scale
Fire Creations in Glass
Sarnia, Ontario
....
and Elisabeth 'n Toby in UK
----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
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From owner-glass Sat Nov 15 16:08:36 1997
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
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Subject: Re: back on list 
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Date: Sun, 16 Nov 1997 01:01:07 +0000
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Oh Len, (flutter...flutter...)
Missed you dreadfully!
Glad you are back.
I am busy ''raising old ghosts'' again
Had an interesting cost comparison about stained glass trips .
Sart saving, want to get you over here...
Elisabeth 'n Toby in UK

 some mysterious reason I found myself 
at the current bungi =archive.... can't explain it.... kinda like 
a=20 Ouije board thing.

Anyway, after reading through some posts with familiar names (and some =
interesting posts with new names)  it turns out that  gosh darn it, I  =
missed you guys   :-)

Looking forward to making a positive contribution.=20


Len


=20





----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
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From owner-glass Sat Nov 15 16:09:11 1997
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
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Date: Sun, 16 Nov 1997 01:01:07 +0000
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Dear Albert - but not ONLY.....

(yep Dani, ... as you said to Len... this whole Chartres business is 
waking up again!!)
 After the interesting cost comparison on stained 
glass  trips to UK ( and Europe), I think we can safely assume that  
a feasible, realistic costing for the REAL stained glass afficionados 
doesn't necessarily  equate to having to sell your grandmother!!

I asked for an input from YOU guys;
WHERE ARE THEY????

When I first came to UK, I was young and innocent and terribly 
unsophisticated; i.e. if someone said something - I believed it...
So I got exposed to what I later called '' come-round for 
tea-sometime-syndrome''
What does this mean?
It means, that  I so often met people who would smile sweetly at me 
and literally say THAT; ''Oh, but you MUST come round for tea''.
When I took them at their word, groped in my handbag for my diary 
and  innocently produced an array of alternative dates for what I 
understood to be a sincere invitation, , people backed off and I got 
variations of "don't call us - we'll call you'' .....
That would never happen in Sweden... or.... or..... or
That was many, many years ago, but I have never forgotten the lesson.
How does that relate to stained glass?
Wwwwellllll....
To put it bluntly; if you want to join the train then make 
a positive move to stop it to get on it!
first: I need inp[ut from you guys where you want to go and why.
In order of popularity, these are the sites I will pick in descending 
order. 
These are not ''day-dream'' trips, they will be very much designed 
from all angles to  be affordable and fun. You won't pay for  luxury 
hotels, nor will you ever be dumped in a Youth Hostel (Albert!). But 
you WILL be absorbed in a Home environment and experience 
down-to-earth English way of life. (.... and Tuesday is YOU turn to 
do the washing-up!) I think there is a tremendeous potential for this 
kind of exchange. It isn't just a theory, we have DONE it and I would 
like to get the already rolling ball rolling on............
I will continue with these trips from UK regardless of you folks, but 
not to include you, not to try to involve you, not for YOU to get 
involved and join in, would be a tragic punitive loss and depravation 
for both you ''Across The Pond'' as well as for me/us.
That's all!
Favorite places list,  please!!!  
Financial problems, considerations 
planning, budgetting or other problems.... OFF-GROUP in private 
e-mails to me - that too will help me plan you IN....
 Elisabeth 'n Toby in UK
----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
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From owner-glass Sat Nov 15 21:58:01 1997
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From: Classydad@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: remove
Date: Sun, 16 Nov 1997 00:56:00 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov15.19560.0>
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Remove
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From owner-glass Sun Nov 16 03:11:29 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!LElsbury
From: LElsbury@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Vickie Paynes web site...
Date: Sun, 16 Nov 1997 06:09:31 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov16.1931.0>
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Precedence: bulk

I'm in total agreement on this issue.  If someone is going to have a web page
then be responsible for doing updates.  Since 3 out of 4 shops in my area
mail out monthly newsletters then it appears reasonable that web pages get
updated on a monthly basis.      LElsbury@aol.com
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From owner-glass Sun Nov 16 03:50:12 1997
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X-Path: ccti.net!don
From: "Don McDonald" <don@ccti.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Vickie Paynes web site...
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Date: Sun, 16 Nov 1997 05:49:33 +0000
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Does anybody have the url for the Vickie Payne web site?

Don M. McDonald
Web Design
Corporate Communications Technology
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From owner-glass Sun Nov 16 07:09:42 1997
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X-Path: shell.mpsi.net!terry-l
From: Terry <terry-l@shell.mpsi.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/enriched; charset="iso-8859-1"
Subject: Re: Vickie Paynes web site...
Date: Sun, 16 Nov 1997 09:12:21 -0800
Message-ID: <3.0.3.32.19971116091221.006a6940@mail.mpsi.net>
References: <<1997Nov16.1931.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

>I'm in total agreement on this issue.  If someone is going to have a web=
 page

>then be responsible for doing updates.  Since 3 out of 4 shops in my area

>mail out monthly newsletters then it appears reasonable that web pages get

>updated on a monthly basis.      LElsbury@aol.com


I know it would be nice if people would regularly update their web pages -=
 but you have to remember that for most people it is just something that=
 starts out as a fun prodject - and then usually they get busy with=
 something else, and forget about their page.  Besides they are not making=
 money or getting paid for having a web page - so just have to remember the=
 net was designed to be free - so you can't always get what you would like=
 for free.  Just my thoughts on the subject..=20

<color><param>ffff,0000,0000</param>          __                        =20
    ___   __        .ama     ,

       ,d888a                          ,d88888888888ba.  ,88"I)   d

      a88']8i                         a88".8"8)   `"8888:88  " _a8'

    .d8P' PP                        .d8P'.8  d)      "8:88:baad8P' =A9

   ,d8P' ,ama,   .aa,  .ama.g ,mmm  d8P' 8  .8'        88):888P'

  ,d88' d8[ "8..a8"88 ,8I"88[ I88' d88   ]IaI"        d8[

  a88' ]P "bm8mP8'(8'.8I  8[      d88'    `"         .88           =20
</color><color><param>0000,0000,ffff</param>Because it's

</color><color><param>ffff,0000,0000</param> ,88I ]P[  .I'.8     88' ,8'
I[  ,88P ,ama    ,ama,  d8[  .ama.g=20

 [88' I8, .I' ]8,  ,88B ,d8 aI   (88',88"8)  d8[ "8. 88 ,8I"88[        =20
</color><color><param>0000,0000,ffff</param>GOOD

</color><color><param>ffff,0000,0000</param> ]88  `8888"  '8888" "88P"8m"
   I88 88[ 8[ ]P "bm8m88[.8I  8[

 ]88,          _,,aaaaaa,_       I88 8"  8 ]P[  .I' 88 88' ,8' I[    =20
</color><color><param>0000,0000,ffff</param>For you!

</color><color><param>ffff,0000,0000</param> `888a,.=20
,aadd88888888888bma.   )88,  ,]I I8, .I' )88a8B ,d8 aI

   "888888PP"'        `8""""""8   "888PP'  `8888"  `88P"88P"8m"</color>
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From owner-glass Sun Nov 16 07:55:48 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!LElsbury
From: LElsbury@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Vickie Paynes web site...
Date: Sun, 16 Nov 1997 10:52:07 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov16.5527.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Your points are well taken.  I certainly know how people can get busy.  I
work full time and have a custom work studio that I work in evenings and
weekends (which I had the luxury of doing only glass)
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From owner-glass Sun Nov 16 08:05:05 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!LElsbury
From: LElsbury@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Vickie Paynes web site...
Date: Sun, 16 Nov 1997 11:03:39 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov16.6339.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I opologize for the error is sending the last note incomplete (finder slipped
and sent it before it was complete).  As I was saying........All of this
started out as a fun thing to do for me also.  I now have a custom shop "on
the side".  It continues to grow and I have limited time, if any, to play on
the computer.  As I said it the mis-sent note - your points are well taken.
 Maybe monthly is not reasonable for the companies with web pages but they
are commercial companies.  I certainly am not singling out Vicki Payne, or
any other company.  I just would like to see more current information.  I
would like to see the "professionals" give their opinion on new products,
Tauraus for example.  There are always new products, glass, etc.... to
discuss.  My appreciation goes out to Bungi for their page.   
----
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From owner-glass Sun Nov 16 08:09:05 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!LElsbury
From: LElsbury@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Fwd: Vickie Paynes web site...
Date: Sun, 16 Nov 1997 11:07:26 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov16.6726.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


---------------------
Forwarded message:
From:	LElsbury@aol.com
Reply-to:	glass@bungi.com
To:	glass@bungi.com
Date: 97-11-16 11:05:56 EST

I opologize for the error is sending the last note incomplete (finder slipped
and sent it before it was complete).  As I was saying........All of this
started out as a fun thing to do for me also.  I now have a custom shop "on
the side".  It continues to grow and I have limited time, if any, to play on
the computer.  As I said it the mis-sent note - your points are well taken.
 Maybe monthly is not reasonable for the companies with web pages but they
are commercial companies.  I certainly am not singling out Vicki Payne, or
any other company.  I just would like to see more current information.  I
would like to see the "professionals" give their opinion on new products,
Tauraus for example.  There are always new products, glass, etc.... to
discuss.  My appreciation goes out to Bungi for their page.   
----
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----
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From owner-glass Sun Nov 16 08:17:46 1997
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X-Path: pobox.com!Northernlights
From: Northernlights <Northernlights@pobox.com>
To: glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: unsubscribe - til the new modem gets in
Date: Sun, 16 Nov 1997 10:18:01 -0600
Message-ID: <1997Nov16.4181.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

wish me luck (never put in a new modem before)....I'll let you know when
i'm back on-line.  Thanks!
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From owner-glass Sun Nov 16 08:21:35 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!LElsbury
From: LElsbury@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: unsubscribe - til the new modem gets in
Date: Sun, 16 Nov 1997 11:19:50 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov16.61950.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

GOODLUCK1
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From owner-glass Sun Nov 16 09:50:07 1997
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X-Path: pobox.com!Northernlights
From: Northernlights <Northernlights@pobox.com>
To: glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: subscribe!!!
Date: Sun, 16 Nov 1997 11:20:02 -0600
Message-ID: <1997Nov16.5202.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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back up and running!!!  didn't take too long after all!
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From owner-glass Sun Nov 16 12:09:52 1997
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X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: "INTERNET:glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: bradley base lamps
Date: Sun, 16 Nov 1997 15:00:48 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov16.10048.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

While I have never made a Bradley Base, I have a friend who has.  The maj=
or
complaint he had was that the patterns sometimes don't fit the base form.=
 =

So be REAL careful to double check that the pattern selected does fit the=

form prior to cutting the pattern.  In his case the pattern was too small=

for the form and he ended up having to re-size several pieces.  The
problems he ran into could have been avoided by double checking the patte=
rn
fit on the form, first.

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
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From owner-glass Sun Nov 16 12:49:56 1997
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From: "Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: "INTERNET:glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: An interesting glass ad
Date: Sun, 16 Nov 1997 15:00:54 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov16.10054.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Oh man, Alec, that sure is tempting!
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From owner-glass Sun Nov 16 17:14:12 1997
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X-Path: flash.net!bunzie
From: Lori <bunzie@flash.net>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="---- =_NextPart_000_01BCF395.53A30300"
Subject: RE: Vickie Paynes web site...
Date: Mon, 17 Nov 1997 20:05:35 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov17.15535.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


------ =_NextPart_000_01BCF395.53A30300
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

It's www.foryourhome.com

----------
From: 	Don McDonald[SMTP:don@ccti.net]
Sent: 	Sunday, November 16, 1997 12:49 AM
To: 	glass@bungi.com
Subject: 	Re: Vickie Paynes web site...

Does anybody have the url for the Vickie Payne web site?

Don M. McDonald
Web Design
Corporate Communications Technology
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From owner-glass Sun Nov 16 18:37:27 1997
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X-Path: flash.net!bunzie
From: Lori <bunzie@flash.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Banding...
Date: Mon, 17 Nov 1997 21:37:17 -0800
Message-ID: <1997Nov17.133717.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi everyone.  

I made a beautiful round panel that's a little on the big size.  I
initially planned to frame it in wood 'til I found out it was gonna cost
75 big ones to do it.  I guess it's about 2 feet across. 

 I ended up buying brass "banding" with a pretty scalloped edge to frame
it with, but I'm kinda worried about sturdiness.  It's very flimsy, as
the brass is thin, and is this going to be strong enough when I go to
hang it?  Also, I was told to just attach it to the panel by soldering
the joint.  How is this going to keep it securely attached all the way
around the panel?  I'd prefer to have it completely attached to the
glass all he way around, and I was thinking about using some type of
silicone that dries clear or something.  Any one have any ideas? 
Thanks, I'd appreciate any help!

~Lori
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From owner-glass Sun Nov 16 19:57:28 1997
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X-Path: mmaildirect.com!webtech
From: webtech@mmaildirect.com
To: webtech@mmaildirect.com
Subject: SAVE A FORTUNE! EARN A FORTUNE!
Date: Sun, 16 Nov 1997 21:55:00 -0600 (CST)
Message-ID: <199711170355.VAA04543@dfw-ix9.ix.netcom.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

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From owner-glass Sun Nov 16 20:00:13 1997
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X-Path: ComCAT.COM!suzy
From: suzanne albright <suzy@ComCAT.COM>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: My page is finally updated!!!
Date: Sun, 16 Nov 97 23:02:02 -0400
Message-ID: <199711170359.WAA23385@uz.ComCAT.COM>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi Mike,

Just went to your web site to check out your Alien Story.

What an imagination you have! And I loved the pictures too, all full of 
subliminal and not-so-subliminal stained glass along with the aliens. 
Thanks for the treat!



Suzanne Albright
suzydotcom
"A thing of beauty is a joy forever."



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From owner-glass Mon Nov 17 04:17:25 1997
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X-Path: fast.net!charles
From: charles - Warner-Crivellaro <charles@fast.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Banding...
Date: Mon, 17 Nov 1997 07:17:05 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov17.2175.0>
References: <<1997Nov17.133717.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

> I made a beautiful round panel that's a little on the big size.  I
> initially planned to frame it in wood 'til I found out it was gonna
> cost 75 big ones to do it.  I guess it's about 2 feet across.
> 
>  I ended up buying brass "banding" with a pretty scalloped edge to
> frame
> it with, but I'm kinda worried about sturdiness.  It's very flimsy, as
> the brass is thin, and is this going to be strong enough when I go to
> hang it?  Also, I was told to just attach it to the panel by soldering
> the joint.  How is this going to keep it securely attached all the way
> around the panel?  I'd prefer to have it completely attached to the
> glass all he way around, and I was thinking about using some type of
> silicone that dries clear or something.  Any one have any ideas?
> Thanks, I'd appreciate any help!

Lori:

Lots of simple things can be done.  If you like the scalloped edge use 
a large size of ball chain such as 3/8" (ball) this sells for about 
$1.69 per foot.  A less expensive alternative is twisting any size lead 
came in a drill (slooowly), then wrapping the panel with it and 
soldering them together.  Variations can be made by using different
sizes 
and types of came.  If your panel is wrapped in "H" came you could put 
jack chain (or large size wire) into that and crimp the channel shut 
except at the top where the hook would be located.  If the edge of the 
panel is thin enough it could be wrapped in "ladder chain", this is 
about $1.29 per foot.  Ladder chain is commonly used as a frame around
etched bevels.

The ball chain and the twisted came ideas must be soldered all the way 
around the panel.  These will give the greatest rigidity.

Almost anything that can be soldered will work to give both an 
interesting frame and a structure that will support your panel.  I 
always wanted to use copper tubing for free formed panels but never 
had the time.

BTW a round oak frame for a 24" panel sells for $65.95

Charles Warner
http://www.warner-criv.com/
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From owner-glass Mon Nov 17 05:38:55 1997
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X-Path: ll.mit.edu!cogen
From: David Cogen <cogen@ll.mit.edu>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Temperature of Shop
Date: Mon, 17 Nov 97 08:36:52 -0500
Message-ID: <9711170836.AA17624@LL.MIT.EDU>
References: <<1997Nov14.83929.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


> Central NY and it's cold already.  The temperature today down there is 53
> degrees,  I assume this is too cold to cut glass.  I brought up the pieces

It may be colder than optimal, but certainly doable. My shop can get to the
low 50's too. I have no undue problems with glass cutting or other aspects.

-- David
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From owner-glass Mon Nov 17 07:26:25 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!LElsbury
From: LElsbury@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Vickie Paynes web site...
Date: Mon, 17 Nov 1997 10:22:49 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov17.52249.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Vickie's company is Cutters Productions--I don't have the URL but hope this
helps.
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From owner-glass Mon Nov 17 09:00:20 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!Margaret41
From: Margaret41@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Stained Glass Web Sites
Date: Mon, 17 Nov 1997 11:58:21 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov17.65821.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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Could you pls. repost this single listing of SG web sites?  Thanks

Also, I will be going to Florence, Italy shortly - does anyone know of any
stained glass supply stores in that country? Thanks again.
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From owner-glass Mon Nov 17 10:34:48 1997
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X-Path: netrox.net!athena
From: "M.-J. Taylor" <athena@netrox.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Here are URLs for Vicki Payne's Web Site
Date: Mon, 17 Nov 1997 13:33:50 -0500
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Someone wanted the URLs for Vicki Payne's Web Site:

http://foryourhome.com/Additions/news.htm
http://www.foryourhome.com/vikswindow.htm

She also chats live on Wed. at 2pm:

http://www.foryourhome.com/coffee/topchat1.htm
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From owner-glass Mon Nov 17 13:43:40 1997
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From: "studio@stainedglass.co.uk" <studio@stainedglass.co.uk>
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Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Stained Glass Web Sites
Date: Mon, 17 Nov 1997 21:37:16 +0000
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At 11:58 17/11/97 -0500, Margaret41 wrote (in part):
>Also, I will be going to Florence, Italy shortly - does anyone know of any
>stained glass supply stores in that country? 
Well, I don't know of any stained glass supplies shops in Italy, but I did
find a nice web site at http://www.tintorettoglass.it of a company in Venice
who make glass rods and millefiori for kiln work. We are about to order some
for a bit of fun, but I'd love to go round the factory and see it made.
Maybe next year.
Elizabeth
Bournemouth Stained Glass
http://www.stainedglass.co.uk

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From owner-glass Mon Nov 17 13:43:41 1997
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X-Path: juno.com!jroey
From: jroey@juno.com (Jerri M Roey)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Morton Safety Break System
Date: Mon, 17 Nov 1997 16:37:09 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov17.11379.0>
References: <<1997Nov17.133717.0>>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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Has anyone tried the Morton Safety Bread System?  I'd like any opinions
on it.

Thanks,

Jerri
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From owner-glass Mon Nov 17 13:43:49 1997
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Subject: Re: looking for info -Reply
Date: Mon, 17 Nov 1997 13:41:19 -0800
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>>> Carolyn Noel <glasscat@infinet.com> 11/15/97 11:27am >>>
Could the "corduroy" glass be the Uroboros "fibroid"? That kind of
reminds me of corduroy. It comes in an evergreen shade and another
shade
of green....can't remember right off hand. 
C Noel
----
No, the fibroid was one of the first I looked into. I went over to the
Uroboros factory last week and showed them a sample piece taken out
of the lamp. The lady that helped initially immediately identified it as  theirs,
but it was discontinued long ago. She felt she could find a close match,
and it was found in their herringbone granite ripple. Needless to say, I'm
elated !  I was impressed by their setup, and helpfulness. The icing on
the cake was being given some gloves, and free range access to all
those beautiful  bins of glass. Although they do not sell direct there,
arrangements are made to purchase through a local glass company and
leave with your purchase(s).( Ironically, the company I paid for the glass
was the first place I started my search at this last summer !) If anyone
gets a chance to visit their studios , I recommend it highly.

Steve Matthies
North Coast Glassworks
stevem@Tillamook.k12.or.us

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From owner-glass Mon Nov 17 13:54:33 1997
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From: Lori <bunzie@flash.net>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="---- =_NextPart_000_01BCF442.A0600F00"
Subject: RE: Banding...
Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 16:53:47 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov18.115347.0>
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------ =_NextPart_000_01BCF442.A0600F00
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Wow!!!  Thanks.....great ideas!!  Maybe I'll try one of them.  Still =
tho'....no one touched on my question about using silicone to "tack" the =
banding all away around the panel.  is this possible?   Thanx again!   =
~Lori

----------
From: 	charles - Warner-Crivellaro[SMTP:charles@fast.net]
Sent: 	Monday, November 17, 1997 7:17 AM
To: 	glass@bungi.com
Subject: 	Re: Banding...

> I made a beautiful round panel that's a little on the big size.  I
> initially planned to frame it in wood 'til I found out it was gonna
> cost 75 big ones to do it.  I guess it's about 2 feet across.
>=20
>  I ended up buying brass "banding" with a pretty scalloped edge to
> frame
> it with, but I'm kinda worried about sturdiness.  It's very flimsy, as
> the brass is thin, and is this going to be strong enough when I go to
> hang it?  Also, I was told to just attach it to the panel by soldering
> the joint.  How is this going to keep it securely attached all the way
> around the panel?  I'd prefer to have it completely attached to the
> glass all he way around, and I was thinking about using some type of
> silicone that dries clear or something.  Any one have any ideas?
> Thanks, I'd appreciate any help!

Lori:

Lots of simple things can be done.  If you like the scalloped edge use=20
a large size of ball chain such as 3/8" (ball) this sells for about=20
$1.69 per foot.  A less expensive alternative is twisting any size lead=20
came in a drill (slooowly), then wrapping the panel with it and=20
soldering them together.  Variations can be made by using different
sizes=20
and types of came.  If your panel is wrapped in "H" came you could put=20
jack chain (or large size wire) into that and crimp the channel shut=20
except at the top where the hook would be located.  If the edge of the=20
panel is thin enough it could be wrapped in "ladder chain", this is=20
about $1.29 per foot.  Ladder chain is commonly used as a frame around
etched bevels.

The ball chain and the twisted came ideas must be soldered all the way=20
around the panel.  These will give the greatest rigidity.

Almost anything that can be soldered will work to give both an=20
interesting frame and a structure that will support your panel.  I=20
always wanted to use copper tubing for free formed panels but never=20
had the time.

BTW a round oak frame for a 24" panel sells for $65.95

Charles Warner
http://www.warner-criv.com/
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From owner-glass Mon Nov 17 14:15:42 1997
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X-Path: mail.abelink.com!rbaker
From: Di Baker <rbaker@mail.abelink.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Morton Safety Break System
Date: Mon, 17 Nov 1997 16:20:04
Message-ID: <3.0.1.16.19971117162004.38bf38a0@mail.abelink.com>
References: <<1997Nov17.133717.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi Wonderful Glass Artists!

In reply to Jerri's question about the Morton Safety Break System -- I use
it & love it. It really helped me learn how to handle the glass safely when
I was a newbie & helps you to get good clean breaks. I would recommend it. 

The grid is wonderful to catch all of those little nasty slivers safely
until you can dispose of them. 

Di Baker



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From owner-glass Mon Nov 17 14:27:49 1997
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X-Path: net-magic.net!tcn
From: tcn@net-magic.net (Boatwright, Walter)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Morton Safety Break System
Date: Mon, 17 Nov 1997 17:26:56 -0800
Message-ID: <1997Nov17.92656.0>
References: <<1997Nov17.11379.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: The Glass Safari
Precedence: bulk

The Morton system is the very best.. also get the Video...a great help.
The Glass Safari
1-800-458-6292

Jerri M Roey wrote:

> Has anyone tried the Morton Safety Bread System?  I'd like any opinions
> on it.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jerri
> ----
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From owner-glass Mon Nov 17 15:26:53 1997
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X-Path: matnet.com!rogert
From: "Tyler, Roger D." <rogert@matnet.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Morse Museum
Date: Mon, 17 Nov 1997 14:16:15 -0800
Message-ID: <1.5.4.32.19971117221615.00674960@primary.matnet.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Morse Museum is located at 133 E. Welbourne Ave. Winter Park, FL.  
 phone: 407-645-5311.

http://www.goflorida.com/central/orlando/see/museum/morse.html

The Morse Museum is in Winter Park which is just NE of Orlando, about a 15
minute drive from downtown Orlando or 30 minutes from Sea World,  a bit
longer from the Disney Hotels. It is located off of Interstate-4, exit at
Fairview Ave East to Park Ave, left or north on Park about 1 mile.
If you're in a hurry, you can go through it in 2 hours. Depending on your
interest, it could take longer. The docents are very knowledgeable and be
sure to ask for one to fully learn about the pieces on display.
They do not have their own web page yet but an article written by a local
arts reviewer on the Museum can be seen at
http://www.goflorida.com/central/orlando/see/museum/morse.html
Hope you enjoy it. I go back often and always find more that fascinates me.

At 06:05 PM 11/7/97 -0500, you wrote:
>Jerri M Roey wrote:
>> 
>>         I got to stop at the Morse Museum when we were in Fla. for a few
>> days last month. It was wonderful.  A couple of pieces even had his
>> original drawings, then a model, then the real piece.   It either makes
>> me want to try harder or give it up.  Very humbling.  If my daughter
>> hadn't been there, I could have spent hours.  The volunteers were very
>> knowledgeable and eager to share what they knew.  Definitely worth the $3
>> admission.  If you are in the area, don't miss it.
>> 
>> Jerri
>> 
>> On Fri, 7 Nov 1997 14:06:01 -0500 "Herb Adler" <herba@inspace.net>
>> writes:
>I have mentioned this b4 but in light of Mikey's review, it's worth a
>repeat. The Morse Museum in Winter Park (Orlando, FL) has one of the
>finest Tiffany Collections anywhere. They are in the process of expanding the museum so that they can display even more of their 4-6000 pieces and specifically a chapel. I can't remember the details but if you're in>the >Orlando area, try to budget at least 1/2 day to visit this outstanding >museum. As far as  I know, they do not have a web page yet.
>
>-- 
>Mike's Stained Glass
>http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141

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From owner-glass Mon Nov 17 15:30:34 1997
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X-Path: ucdavis.edu!krmcdonald
From: "McDonald, Kathe R." <krmcdonald@ucdavis.edu>
To: glass <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: For Italy trip
Date: Mon, 17 Nov 97 15:22:00 PST
Message-ID: <1997Nov17.23220.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


For the person visitingItaly, be sure to go to Vence. From Venice, you can 
catch a little boat that takes you to Murano, where they do glasswork. Years 
ago when I visited, it was one of the highlights of Italy, and worth the 
trek to Venice if you have an extra day or two. Sorry, I don't have any 
leads on supplies.
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From owner-glass Mon Nov 17 15:41:39 1997
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X-Path: matnet.com!rogert
From: "Tyler, Roger D." <rogert@matnet.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: GlassHints/Frames-11/17
Date: Mon, 17 Nov 1997 14:35:48 -0800
Message-ID: <1.5.4.32.19971117223548.0067c540@primary.matnet.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


I use Northern Hardwoods stained glass framing stock
in the 6' lengths, or their pre-cut and metered stock.  Very
nice.  But occasionally I reuse an old oak picture frame.
I add a piece of molding from a home improvement center
to finish off the back.  It looks very nice.  Just remember to
remove all UPC code labels from the molding prior to
installation.  I made the mistake of leaving one on once, and
it ended up showing through a yellow cathedral piece.
Bummer.

Christie A. Wood

>Message text written by Jerri:
>>       I know people were just talking about wood frames, and I've never>
>used them.  I was wondering which products people liked best.  I've been
>looking at the "Oak Framing Stock" that Delphi sells that comes in 6'
>lengths.  They also have some pre-cut oak, which looks like it would be
>good too.  W/C has some called "Pop-Lock" which look relatively simple,
>but I'm not sure I'd like them because the corners aren't mitred.  I
>would love anyone's opinions on these products or any other wood frame
>products.
>
>        Also, what about the side mount chain hooks to eliminate " top
>stress"?  Is it better for larger panels to be hung from the side rather
>than the top?  What about small panels?  Does it matter?
>Thanks,  Jerri<
>
>Personally, I like to use the Northern Hardwoods oak framing stock.  This>
>is probably the manufacturer that Delphi sells, as they come in both 6'
>lengths which you cut yourself, or in various lengths already cut, mitere>d
>and drilled out for the screws.  In fact, I just ordered quite a few of
>them on Saturday for some up-coming projects.
>
>I have never used the Pop-Lock system.  Anyone out there have any
>opinions?
>
>The side mount hooks are installed on the two sides of the frame.  By
>installing them on the sides rather than on the top of the frame, you
>spread the stress of weight bearing down the entire length of the side,
>rather than at just two points at the top.  Whenever possible, use the
>side-mounted hooks whether it's for a large or small framed panel.
>
>Christie A. Wood
>Art Glass Ensembles


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From owner-glass Mon Nov 17 16:12:45 1997
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X-Path: prodigy.com!YWAH36A
From: YWAH36A@prodigy.com ( BOB   DUCHESNEAU)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: RE: Banding...
Date: Mon, 17 Nov 1997 19:10:39, -0500
Message-ID: <199711180010.TAA18534@mime4.prodigy.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Lori writes:
Wow!!!  Thanks.....great ideas!!  Maybe I'll try one of them.  Still 

tho'....no one touched on my question about using silicone to "tack" 
the 
banding all away around the panel.  is this possible?   Thanx again!  
 
~Lori

Bob writes,
  I wonder about the strength of the banding you have and do not like 
the idea of using silicon for ataching it to a two foot diameter 
circle. My way would be to use a piece of 1/2" brass U-CAP. You need 
the Cascade came bender to bend the brass into a circle. Many studios 
have this handy machine and should be happy to spin up a circle for 
you. I charge two dollars and think I am making out, Bob

____
Bob Duchesneau (You've got to be smarter than the gear you're working 
with.) Mountain Meadow Stained Glass, 26746 Mountain Meadow Road, 
Escondido, CA 92026 Voice (760) 749-3966 FAX (760) 749-6427
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From owner-glass Mon Nov 17 17:12:52 1997
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X-Path: wiredweb.com!croch
From: "Carol J. Rochnowski" <croch@wiredweb.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Light Table
Date: Mon, 17 Nov 1997 17:14:14 -0800
Message-ID: <17113973809151@WIREDWEB.COM>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Finally decided I need a light table - and am not one capable of "building
it" myself - Delphi has one on sale for $120 (down from $150) for 24"x16"
plexiglass surface with "color-corrected lights" ...  Any and all advice
warmly welcomed!  Christmas is coming and my family might pitch in ...
namaste'  carol

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From owner-glass Mon Nov 17 19:18:24 1997
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X-Path: mail.nildram.co.uk!glass
From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Venice , Italy
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@mail.nildram.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 04:15:28 +0000
Message-ID: <199711180316.DAA16666@pluto.nildram.co.uk>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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My Dear Bunginians,

Over here,  it's Tuesday morning at about 2 am; I survived 8 hours 
without a break on my feet last Saturday running a copper-foil 
workshop (Peggy! I wished you could have been there!!) I even managed 
to hold my temper with a very officious and rude care-taker at the 
College - but only just. Yesterday I just blobbed and didn't check my 
e-mail -, even once. Today I have teaching again. 
A couple of threads caught my attention......
Venice in Italy
Tell me, is that a venue you out there would like me to include in my 
deliberations for a glass trip/ stained glass trip????
I noted the comment by EliZabeth in Bournemouth (UK). Venetian glass, 
is - of course - historically world-famous. Venice itself is a 
fairy-tale (even though it has suffered from appalling pollution in 
the past). It would be an ambitious project, but not impossible. It 
would probably take 12-18 months to research and put together. From 
my own point of view, Venice has often been a stop-over for me in my
past life on business, but I have never had a REAL chance to explore 
it.  Never mind exploring the delights of Venetian glass.
It occurs to me that if this is something that might turn you on, 
then I will try and organize it with my exceedingly enterprising 
College that realized the Chartres trip. But how about ALL of us 
doing a bit of research in the meantime, so that we can get a 
programme together of what people really want to see when there.....
The ethos and finance of the project still very much in line with 
what I have done before. ALL of you should know my philosophy by now.
But for a project like this to succeed, it is going to  mean 
patience, a bit of work and some  tenacity &''staying-power''.

Another point; since I sent my last posting about organizing future 
trips in Europe, I have had a number of private e-mails from you 
"Across The Pond" registering positive interest, but worries about 
TIMINGS.
I will repeat into the Group what I have already replied privately to 
those people; there is NO rigid once only time for these future 
plans. They can be anytime in the year. But what I do use as a 
criteria is the school-holidays in Great Britain, e.g.  from mid-May 
to end-August, approx. 2/3rd week in October (Autumn half-term), the 
week AFTER Easter and/or the Spring half-term . I do no not plan any 
trips for Christmas time. First; I am ''On Parade'' for my English 
Family to provide a full-blown Swedish Christmas. I have done so for 
the last 20 years or so, and don't expect I can escape it now; 
Secondly; December is too darned cold/wet to enjoy such a trip in 
Europe. And thirdly; Everything that lives and crawls tries to get 
away at Christmas, so it will be  expensive. (Finance and 
affordability being  a very important consideration - as I have bored 
you with by now....)
Keep it coming.......
Elisabeth 'n Toby in UK

 At 11:58 17/11/97 -0500, 
Margaret41 wrote (in part): >Also, I will be going to Florence, Italy 
shortly - does anyone know of any >stained glass supply stores in 
that country? 
----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
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From owner-glass Tue Nov 18 01:06:22 1997
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X-Path: seaside.net!gspicer
From: "Glenn Spicer" <gspicer@seaside.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Re: Light Table
Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 00:59:00 -0800
Message-ID: <19971118005839.3166d622.in@seaside.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

If the size and price are right for you then go for it but first check to
see if the plexiglass is thick enough not to bend under pressure, I prefer
to use 1/4" plate glass for the work surface, as it gives a good support
and at that size is very strong ( to diffuse the light a thin plexiglass is
good or I find even better is that thin white foam paper used for packing
as it diffuses the light and has just the right amount of give to deal with
the irregularities in the stained glass surface and is easy to clear of
glass fragments)
Glenn Spicer
The Studio Metamorphoses

----------
> From: Carol J. Rochnowski <croch@wiredweb.com>
> To: glass@bungi.com
> Subject: Light Table
> Date: November 17, 1997 5:14 PM
> 
> Finally decided I need a light table - and am not one capable of
"building
> it" myself - Delphi has one on sale for $120 (down from $150) for 24"x16"
> plexiglass surface with "color-corrected lights" ...  Any and all advice
> warmly welcomed!  Christmas is coming and my family might pitch in ...
> namaste'  carol
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> 
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From owner-glass Tue Nov 18 03:32:58 1997
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X-Path: mwt.net!alcamoz
From: "len alcamo" <alcamoz@mwt.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: making adjustments
Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 05:41:30 -0600
Message-ID: <199711181129.FAA26691@westbyserver.westby.mwt.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi,

Thanks to all who wrote welcoming me back to bungi!

If you recall I had quit business as a SG commission artist because of  a
cronic overuse problem in my hand that  made it impossible to for me to
continue to be productive ....as in produce enough work to make a living.

After the dust settled I realized of course that SG is in my blood and
always will be.

I am doing some work  for myself and bartering with other artist friends
.........keeps me on my toes creatively.

adjustments......

Changed my cutting style from thumb forward pushing to a vertical draw style
with most of the cutting pressure coming from my palm pushing against the
cutter's ball.

Spend more time at the grinder

 use soft flat came ....much easier to work with then the high alloy round
that I preferred in the past.

I have compensated for the reduction in strength by tinning all the came. I
have used this technique in the past on certain projects where the panels
were viewed from close up. I like the look , the only problem is that the
solder does not buff up as nicely as  lead does and with cemented windows
which always leave residue on the came,  it's very difficult to use a patina
to finish off ....... any suggestions would be appreciated.

I can now get in a couple hours a day of glass work which gives me great
pleasure. I wax nostalgic for those 14  hour glass cutting marathons
though...... I loved being in that zone!


Len

OBTW..... would the person who posted about Ruth Glass please p-mail me, I
knew David Ruth years ago. If you have any scraps I'd like to work something
out





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From owner-glass Tue Nov 18 04:04:30 1997
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X-Path: memach.com!lcbell
From: Linda Campbell <lcbell@memach.com>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: RE: Morton Safety Break System
Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 07:05:40 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov18.2540.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I have the Morton board and I find it hard to cut on the grid. It's nice =
that the little slivers are supposed to fall in the grid but making  =
cutting out small pieces is a bear.=20

I bought the Emerald Rainbow Scoreboard. It has a smoothe surface and to =
me is much easier to use. The price is cheaper (under $50) and is sold =
by Delphi. Yeah, my slivers have no place to go but I keep a drafting =
brush on my work bench and just cleanup every once in a while.

Just my 2 cnets.


Linda

----------
From: 	Jerri M Roey[SMTP:jroey@juno.com]
Sent: 	Monday, November 17, 1997 4:37 PM
To: 	glass@bungi.com
Subject: 	Morton Safety Break System

Has anyone tried the Morton Safety Bread System?  I'd like any opinions
on it.

Thanks,

Jerri
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From owner-glass Tue Nov 18 04:23:04 1997
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From: Linda Campbell <lcbell@memach.com>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Pricing Worksheet
Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 07:24:09 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov18.2249.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Several folks have asked about pricing your work. I found this pricing =
worksheet at Riordan Artistry. You may remember he has the =
rec.crafts.glass FAQ at his site. Anyway, is this guide in line with =
prices you charge? =20

http://www.riordanartistry.com//htm/pricessg.htm

Riordan's home page is:
http://www.riordanartistry.com

Linda Campbell
On the Edge of the Great Dismal Swamp
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From owner-glass Tue Nov 18 05:38:16 1997
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X-Path: Wittenberg.EDU!CUTLER
From: cutler@Wittenberg.EDU
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Riordan Artistry URL
Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 08:37:25 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov18.33725.0>
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Precedence: bulk


I just tried the address posted (http://www.riordanartistry.com) and was
told by Netscape that the address does not have a registerd domain name.

On another theme: I am planning a move to Arizona next summer and I am
facing the task of packing up my workshop.  Any suggestions for making the
move efficient/painless as possible?

cutler

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From owner-glass Tue Nov 18 05:57:14 1997
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From: Linda Campbell <lcbell@memach.com>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: RE: Riordan Artistry URL
Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 08:58:21 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov18.35821.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I was there and cut the address straight from the page. I just tried it again and it worked. Perhaps there is a problem with your browser.

Linda

----------
From: 	cutler@Wittenberg.EDU[SMTP:cutler@Wittenberg.EDU]
Sent: 	Tuesday, November 18, 1997 3:37 AM
To: 	glass@bungi.com
Subject: 	Riordan Artistry URL


I just tried the address posted (http://www.riordanartistry.com) and was
told by Netscape that the address does not have a registerd domain name.

On another theme: I am planning a move to Arizona next summer and I am
facing the task of packing up my workshop.  Any suggestions for making the
move efficient/painless as possible?

cutler

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From owner-glass Tue Nov 18 06:18:02 1997
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X-Path: juno.com!jroey
From: jroey@juno.com (Jerri M Roey)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Morton Safety Break System
Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 08:56:23 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov18.35623.0>
References: <<1997Nov18.2540.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi Linda,

	I already have the Morton System.  I don't like to cut on it
either, but use it for repetitive geometiric pieces.  From what I've
heard, I wish I had gotten the Scoreboard because I've heard it's easier
to use.  I have a lot of trouble figuring out angles.  I just wondered
about that little button-like piece in the saftey break system.  I was
watching my retailer use it, and I tried it once and was impressed.  I
thought I was pretty good with the running pliers, but this thing was
really breaking some curvy pieces in a snap.

Thanks so much for your input.

Jerri


On Tue, 18 Nov 1997 07:05:40 -0500 Linda Campbell <lcbell@memach.com>
writes:
>I have the Morton board and I find it hard to cut on the grid. It's 
>nice =
>that the little slivers are supposed to fall in the grid but making  =
>cutting out small pieces is a bear.=20
>
>I bought the Emerald Rainbow Scoreboard. It has a smoothe surface and 
>to =
>me is much easier to use. The price is cheaper (under $50) and is sold 
>=
>by Delphi. Yeah, my slivers have no place to go but I keep a drafting 
>=
>brush on my work bench and just cleanup every once in a while.
>
>Just my 2 cnets.
>
>
>Linda
>
>----------
>From: 	Jerri M Roey[SMTP:jroey@juno.com]
>Sent: 	Monday, November 17, 1997 4:37 PM
>To: 	glass@bungi.com
>Subject: 	Morton Safety Break System
>
>Has anyone tried the Morton Safety Bread System?  I'd like any 
>opinions
>on it.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Jerri
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
>
>
>----
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From owner-glass Tue Nov 18 06:44:48 1997
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X-Path: memach.com!lcbell
From: Linda Campbell <lcbell@memach.com>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: RE: Morton Safety Break System
Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 09:44:37 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov18.44437.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hey Jerri,

Yes, I am very satisfied with the scoreboard coming from a drafting =
background it works jsut like a T-square and triagles. In fact I don't =
cut out my pattern pieces, I just fold them and lay them against the =
bottom rule, match the angle with the vertical rule and cut away.=20

Others may know about the little button thingie. I haven't used it. I =
bought the pliers that I think Mike Savad recommended. They are Glastar =
running pliers and instead of the usual jaws, they have a fulcrum point =
on the bottom jaw and a soft circular ring on the top jaw. They offer so =
much control in breaking curves that I swear you could pop a circle out =
of the middle of a piece of glass without shattering it if your were =
patient.

Linda
----------
From: 	Jerri M Roey[SMTP:jroey@juno.com]
Sent: 	Tuesday, November 18, 1997 8:56 AM
To: 	glass@bungi.com
Subject: 	Re: Morton Safety Break System

Hi Linda,

	I already have the Morton System.  I don't like to cut on it
either, but use it for repetitive geometiric pieces.  From what I've
heard, I wish I had gotten the Scoreboard because I've heard it's easier
to use.  I have a lot of trouble figuring out angles.  I just wondered
about that little button-like piece in the saftey break system.  I was
watching my retailer use it, and I tried it once and was impressed.  I
thought I was pretty good with the running pliers, but this thing was
really breaking some curvy pieces in a snap.

Thanks so much for your input.

Jerri


On Tue, 18 Nov 1997 07:05:40 -0500 Linda Campbell <lcbell@memach.com>
writes:
>I have the Morton board and I find it hard to cut on the grid. It's=20
>nice =3D
>that the little slivers are supposed to fall in the grid but making  =
=3D
>cutting out small pieces is a bear.=3D20
>
>I bought the Emerald Rainbow Scoreboard. It has a smoothe surface and=20
>to =3D
>me is much easier to use. The price is cheaper (under $50) and is sold=20
>=3D
>by Delphi. Yeah, my slivers have no place to go but I keep a drafting=20
>=3D
>brush on my work bench and just cleanup every once in a while.
>
>Just my 2 cnets.
>
>
>Linda
>
>----------
>From: 	Jerri M Roey[SMTP:jroey@juno.com]
>Sent: 	Monday, November 17, 1997 4:37 PM
>To: 	glass@bungi.com
>Subject: 	Morton Safety Break System
>
>Has anyone tried the Morton Safety Bread System?  I'd like any=20
>opinions
>on it.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Jerri
>----
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>
>
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From owner-glass Tue Nov 18 07:03:38 1997
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From: Sally Lamb <slamb@remc7.k12.mi.us>
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Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="Next_Part_2962692118_186249_MS_Mac_IMN"
Subject: Cutting Surface
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> THIS MESSAGE IS IN MIME FORMAT. Since your mail reader does not understand
this format, some or all of this message may not be legible.

--Next_Part_2962692118_186249_MS_Mac_IMN
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Other than the Morton System and the Scoreboard, what are some of the other
cutting surfaces of choice. I usually use a few layers of newspapers but the
little slivers get stuck in the newspaper (we all know what can happen
then). I've looked at the Morton System, but it looked like just another
gadget to me plus cutting small pieces would be difficult. Your input would
be appreciated.

Sally

--Next_Part_2962692118_186249_MS_Mac_IMN
Content-type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"
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<HTML>
<HEAD>
<TITLE>Cutting Surface</TITLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY BGCOLOR="#FFFFFF">
Other than the <I>Morton System</I> and the <I>Scoreboard</I>, what are some of the other cutting surfaces of choice. I usually use a few layers of newspapers but the little slivers get stuck in the newspaper (we all know what can happen then). I've looked at the Morton System, but it looked like just another gadget to me plus cutting small pieces would be difficult. Your input would be appreciated.<BR>
<BR>
Sally
</BODY>
</HTML>

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From owner-glass Tue Nov 18 07:17:33 1997
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X-Path: stainedglass.co.uk!studio
From: "studio@stainedglass.co.uk" <studio@stainedglass.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: making adjustments
Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 15:11:09 +0000
Message-ID: <1997Nov18.15119.0>
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Precedence: bulk

At 05:41 18/11/97 -0600, Len wrote (in part):

>If you recall I had quit business as a SG commission artist because of  a
>cronic overuse problem in my hand that  made it impossible to for me to
>continue to be productive ....as in produce enough work to make a living.

>adjustments......
>
>Changed my cutting style from thumb forward pushing to a vertical draw style
>with most of the cutting pressure coming from my palm pushing against the
>cutter's ball.

Hi, Len, have you tried the pistol grip type cutter?  We've had success with
several arthritic students who would otherwise have had to give up glass
cutting.  They can be used one or two handed and don't need much pressure
from you.  They are not widely used this side of the pond (though we sell
more of these than the "ordinary" supercutter), but I imagine that they are
easy to get hold of in the US.
Regards
Elizabeth 
Bournemouth Stained Glass
http:/www.stainedglass.co.uk

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From owner-glass Tue Nov 18 07:19:00 1997
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X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Light Table
Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 10:15:39 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov18.51539.0>
References: <<17113973809151@WIREDWEB.COM>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Carol J. Rochnowski wrote:
> 
> Finally decided I need a light table - and am not one capable of "building
> it" myself - Delphi has one on sale for $120 (down from $150) for 24"x16"
> plexiglass surface with "color-corrected lights" ...  Any and all advice
> warmly welcomed!  Christmas is coming and my family might pitch in ...
> namaste'  carol
> 
> ----
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you could probably get one cheaper from an art store, or a drafting
supply store. if it's not cheaper, it should be bigger. though it may
not have that color corect thing.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
 New Pages Added: Over 40 new stained glass links, Tips: How To Set Up A
Shop, and My adventures with the Aliens.
----
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From owner-glass Tue Nov 18 07:28:21 1997
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Cutting Surface
Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 10:25:07 -0500
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References: <<199711181502.KAA16617@server.remc7.k12.mi.us>>
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Precedence: bulk

Sally Lamb wrote:
> 
> Other than the Morton System and the Scoreboard, what are some of the
> other cutting surfaces of choice. I usually use a few layers of
> newspapers but the little slivers get stuck in the newspaper (we all
> know what can happen then). I've looked at the Morton System, but it
> looked like just another gadget to me plus cutting small pieces would
> be difficult. Your input would be appreciated.
> 
> Sally


i prefer the score board myself. i got mine before they had a company. i
never liked the morton board, mainly, because your stuck with the size
that it is. and you would need a vaccuum or a really wide garbage can to
remove the slivers. and as it was said before it is'nt good for small
pieces, which i have alot of. 

i do like the feature of angeling the guides in any posistion. and it
looks like it has a more stable circle cutter. but so far (unless i get
a free morton system), i still like the score board. though morton has
other tools that i use all the time, like those little aluminum strips,
for borders...you know those corner shaped things.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
 New Pages Added: Over 40 new stained glass links, Tips: How To Set Up A
Shop, and My adventures with the Aliens.
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From owner-glass Tue Nov 18 07:38:55 1997
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: making adjustments
Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 10:36:31 -0500
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studio@stainedglass.co.uk wrote:
> 
> At 05:41 18/11/97 -0600, Len wrote (in part):
> 
> >If you recall I had quit business as a SG commission artist because of  a
> >cronic overuse problem in my hand that  made it impossible to for me to
> >continue to be productive ....as in produce enough work to make a living.
> 
> >adjustments......
> >
> >Changed my cutting style from thumb forward pushing to a vertical draw style
> >with most of the cutting pressure coming from my palm pushing against the
> >cutter's ball.
> 
> Hi, Len, have you tried the pistol grip type cutter?  We've had success with
> several arthritic students who would otherwise have had to give up glass
> cutting.  They can be used one or two handed and don't need much pressure
> from you.  They are not widely used this side of the pond (though we sell
> more of these than the "ordinary" supercutter), but I imagine that they are
> easy to get hold of in the US.
> Regards
> Elizabeth
> Bournemouth Stained Glass
> http:/www.stainedglass.co.uk
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


there's also that new, though very expensive, cutter. it has a heavy
weight at the end of the cutter, and a free flowing arm. never tried it,
but it looks pretty easy to use. and it does'nt require too much
pressure from you.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
 New Pages Added: Over 40 new stained glass links, Tips: How To Set Up A
Shop, and My adventures with the Aliens.
----
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From owner-glass Tue Nov 18 08:11:22 1997
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X-Path: UCONNVM.UCONN.EDU!HCLADM02
From:         mail <HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu>
To:           glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
Subject:      Re: Morton Safety Break System
Date:         Tue, 18 Nov 97 11:00:21 EST
Message-ID:   <971118.110951.EST.HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu>
References: <<1997Nov18.35623.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I have a semi-Morton system.  I've got the thing for cutting staight lines
and angles, but it is set into a ceiling grid.  If I have small pieces to cut,
I do them on the table beside the grid.  I do like having the grid for the
small pieces to fall into...(also sometimes these little glass pieces
stick in my grozing pliers-the oil perhaps?-and I scrap them off on the grid.
I also have this button breaker thing for difficult inside curves, and it
works...but feels awkward in my hands, so I don't particularly like it.
i try to take care of that problem in the design stage!  This breaker
thing has a grid base with a button on it and the top curves over on a
piece of metal and has the other button on that.  You put your score on
the button and squeeze top and bottom together, moving along the score line
for every squeeze.  You'll hear the score run and the glass will come
apart.  It is poorly balanced and I never have a feel for how much pressure to
put on the squeeze..but it does work.

Dorothy k who needs to sweep under her grid tonight, now that i think of it.

--
Dorothy Kalahan, Interlibrary Loan  (860) 679-2940  FAX (860) 679-4046
UCONN Health Center Library, POB 4003, Farmington CT 06034-4003
HCLADM02@UConnVM.uconn.edu
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From owner-glass Tue Nov 18 08:11:23 1997
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X-Path: az.stratus.com!charlie
From: Charles Spitzer <charlie@az.stratus.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: Re: Morton Safety Break System
Date: Tue, 18 Nov 97 09:09:25 -0700
Message-ID: <m0xXqDP-000LiCC@why.az.stratus.com>
References: <<1997Nov17.133717.0>>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Customer Assistance Center, Stratus Computer, Inc.
Precedence: bulk

You wrote:
> The grid is wonderful to catch all of those little nasty slivers safely
> until you can dispose of them.

i found that if you go to home depot, you can get a 2x4' sheet of a similar  
grid for about $7. it's in the lighting dept and used for overhead  
florescent(sp?) lights. it can be easily cut with wire snips, and i just lay a  
piece of it over my wooden cutting board.
---
Charles Spitzer
charlie@az.stratus.com
Phoenix, AZ
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From owner-glass Tue Nov 18 08:30:25 1997
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X-Path: juno.com!debbiesgarden
From: debbiesgarden@juno.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Cutting Surface
Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 11:28:54 EST
Message-ID: <1997Nov18.162854.0>
References: <<199711181502.KAA16617@server.remc7.k12.mi.us>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


>
>Other than the Morton System and the Scoreboard, what are some of the 
>other
>cutting surfaces of choice. I usually use a few layers of newspapers 
>but the
>little slivers get stuck in the newspaper (we all know what can happen
>then). I've looked at the Morton System, but it looked like just 
>another
>gadget to me plus cutting small pieces would be difficult. Your input 
>would
>be appreciated.
>
>Sally
>

I have the morton system but I don't hardly use it. I have a piece of
hard wood about 9"x9" square that I cut my glass on. Before I put another
sheet to be cut on it, I dust it off with a flat paint brush. The chips
fall in the morton cubicles. I also use this piece of wood to lay the
copperfoiled glass on to burnish it. I usually use a flat wall paper
roller to do the burnishing.  The wood is portable. I can foil and
burnish while spending time with my family. Works for me.
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From owner-glass Tue Nov 18 09:13:59 1997
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X-Path: ccti.net!don
From: "Don McDonald" <don@ccti.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: making adjustments
Summary: Authenticated sender is <don@eve.corp.ccti.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 11:13:45 +0000
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> >adjustments......
> >
> >Changed my cutting style from thumb forward pushing to a vertical draw style
> >with most of the cutting pressure coming from my palm pushing against the
> >cutter's ball.
> 
I guess I have an odd way of holding the cutter...
My cutter is one of those clear body-pencil grip types that you put 
cutting oil in.   I hold it with my right hand like I hold a pencil, 
guiding it with my right hand.  I place my left hand on top of right 
hand with my thumb wrapping around the end of the cutter. My left 
hand stabilizes it and provides pressure.  My hands don't get 
fatigued, and my cuts are more accurate. 

Don M. McDonald
Web Design
Corporate Communications Technology
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From owner-glass Tue Nov 18 09:17:12 1997
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X-Path: mail.abelink.com!rbaker
From: Di Baker <rbaker@mail.abelink.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Handheld foiler
Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 11:20:57
Message-ID: <3.0.1.16.19971118112057.29ef8472@mail.abelink.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi everyone...

I bought the glasstar hand held foiler to help me center the foil & speed
up the foiling process but I cannot figure out for the life of me the
correct way to load the foil. The instructions on the back of the package
leave alot to be desired <g> especially if you are left handed like I am. I
tried to reverse everything & finally gave up.

Any suggestions / directions would be appreciated.

Thanks!

Di Baker

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From owner-glass Tue Nov 18 09:22:38 1997
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X-Path: juno.com!debbiesgarden
From: debbiesgarden@juno.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Cutting Surface
Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 11:51:30 EST
Message-ID: <1997Nov18.165130.0>
References: <<199711181502.KAA16617@server.remc7.k12.mi.us>>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

>morton has
>other tools that i use all the time, like those little aluminum strips,
>for borders...you know those corner shaped things.

I use a ceiling tile to lay the cartoon and glass on. I use carpet
firring strips cut to size to make the frame to hold the glass in while
working on it. The carpet strips already have little tacks in them.  
Debbie T
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From owner-glass Tue Nov 18 09:51:11 1997
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From: "The Banker's House" <bankers@ictc.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Re: Handheld foiler
Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 11:52:12 -0600
Message-ID: <199711181755.LAA23648@ns.ictc.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Di-
	I love the handheld foiler!  I have worn out several, and will never do
foil work without one. I recommended them to my local supply shop too, but
they can't figure out how to use them either.  It is simple really.... foil
with backing attached goes in the slot on the far end.  Then remove a
little of the paper backing, and send it (just the backing) through the
next slot...right near the far end. (this removes the backing from the foil
automatically as you work....although it does sometimes get hung up, and
needs a little persuading)  Unbacked foil is now pulled to the working
end... the one with the little roller, and I usually crimp it onto itself
to make it easier to push under the roller, cut off the crimp and it is
ready to go!

The foiler is not always perfect at centering the foil on the glass.... but
never really far off, and I view the time savings as well worth a little
imperfection!

Hope this helps... it took me a little while to figure out how to use it,
but I think you will really like it once you do.

Dale Bentley <bankers@ictc.com>

----------
> From: Di Baker <rbaker@wideload.abelink.com>
> To: glass@bungi.com
> Subject: Handheld foiler
> Date: Tuesday, November 18, 1997 5:20 AM
> 
> Hi everyone...
> 
> I bought the glasstar hand held foiler to help me center the foil & speed
> up the foiling process but I cannot figure out for the life of me the
> correct way to load the foil. The instructions on the back of the package
> leave alot to be desired <g> especially if you are left handed like I am.
I
> tried to reverse everything & finally gave up.
> 
> Any suggestions / directions would be appreciated.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Di Baker
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
----
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From owner-glass Tue Nov 18 10:37:13 1997
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X-Path: matnet.com!rogert
From: "Tyler, Roger D." <rogert@matnet.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Handheld foiler/Reply
Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 09:33:53 -0800
Message-ID: <1.5.4.32.19971118173353.00680ad8@primary.matnet.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi Di,
  You're right, the directions leave a lot to be desired!  Try this: Lay the foiler on the table in front of you, roller/slit end on your left,long slotted side up or away from you. Copper of foil away from you, paper towards you. Feed foil in from right end; paper peels off at the first hole, foil continues (sticky side down!) along the slotted lengthwise side (away from you (or on top if you turn it to see it).  When foil approaches the left, slotted/roller end, do the folding like the directions tell you (end into a point so it can be fed thru/under the roller).  This aids in getting the sticky foil thru the end slot and under the roller. 

Foil will be sticky side DOWN in the lengthwise slotted side and will slightly wrap around the roller. Paper backing peels off at the opening at the right hand end (as it lays on the table in front of you.

Care must be taken to prevent the unused foil from twisting as it unwinds from the roll and enters the foiler (happens easily!).  I NEVER take all the foil out of the foiler for fear of forgetting the magic formula for threading it thru.  I have found this foiler a great help, and I have all the different sizes.  It does take a little practice to get used to though, be patient. Be sure that the foilcovered roller ROLES over the glass as you wrap. Being left-handed should not be a problem with this foiler.
 Good luck :-)
    Jean


At 11:20 AM 11/18/97, you wrote:
>Hi everyone...
>
>I bought the glasstar hand held foiler to help me center the foil & speed
>up the foiling process but I cannot figure out for the life of me the
>correct way to load the foil. The instructions on the back of the package
>leave alot to be desired <g> especially if you are left handed like I am. I
>tried to reverse everything & finally gave up.
>
>Any suggestions / directions would be appreciated.
>
>Thanks!
>
>Di Baker
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
----
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From owner-glass Tue Nov 18 10:53:34 1997
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X-Path: vdot.net!shyguy
From: Kilgore Trout <shyguy@vdot.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="------------2B69F2C3946526278AECA640"
Subject: Not glass but, Internet Access is slow because ...]
Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 13:44:02 -0800
Message-ID: <1997Nov18.5442.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Cats Cradle Inc
Precedence: bulk

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--------------2B69F2C3946526278AECA640
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

This was sent to me by the TechSupt people at my office. It evidently
affects people in the NE US, or anyone trying to pass through a router
or server up this way

> We are experiencing slow internet response because of a router problem
> in PSI NET:
>
> Location:       NorthEastern Region
> Problem:        Intermittent connectivity to a core router in New York
> City
> Affects:          All traffic routed through the affected region is
> subject to
>                         high amounts of packet loss and routing
> instability.
>                        This includes many frame-relay customers in New
> York City, as well
>                         as all ISDN and analog dialup customers
> connected in NYC.
> Status:         PSINet Network Operations is working in conjunction
> with
>                         our Network Engineers to determine the source
> of the
>                      problem.
>                         Several routers in the NorthEast region were
> upgraded with
>                         new code during last night's maintenance
> window. Whether or
>                         not the new code is causing the instability
> has not yet been
>                         determined.
>         Began:          11/18/97 09:45 EST
>         ETR:            Unknown at this time.
>         Ticket:         net-45735




--
'Every (person) must decide whether to walk in the light of creative
altruism or the darkness of selfishness. This is the judgement. Life's
most persistent and urgent question is "What are you doing for
others?'"Rev. Dr. Martin Luther King Jr.


--------------2B69F2C3946526278AECA640
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From: "VanValen, Bob" <VanValen@FTINTL.COM>
To: "'me@vdot.net '" <shyguy@vdot.net>
Subject: FW: Internet Access is slow because ...
Date: Tue, 18 Nov 97 13:27:00 PST
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Encoding: 36 TEXT
X-Mailer: Microsoft Mail V3.0



 ----------
From: Geslani, Nestor
To: FTI
Subject: Internet Access is slow because ...
Date: Tuesday, November 18, 1997 11:20AM

We are experiencing slow internet response because of a router problem in 
PSI NET:

Location:       NorthEastern Region
        Problem:        Intermittent connectivity to a core router in New 
York City
        Affects:        All traffic routed through the affected region is 
subject to
                        high amounts of packet loss and routing instability. 
This
                        includes many frame-relay customers in New York 
City, as well
                        as all ISDN and analog dialup customers connected in 
NYC.
        Status:         PSINet Network Operations is working in conjunction 
with
                        our Network Engineers to determine the source of the 
problem.
                        Several routers in the NorthEast region were 
upgraded with
                        new code during last night's maintenance window. 
 Whether or
                        not the new code is causing the instability has not 
yet been
                        determined.
        Began:          11/18/97 09:45 EST
        ETR:            Unknown at this time.
        Ticket:         net-45735

--------------2B69F2C3946526278AECA640--

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From owner-glass Tue Nov 18 11:59:45 1997
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X-Path: shell.mpsi.net!terry-l
From: Terry <terry-l@shell.mpsi.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/enriched; charset="iso-8859-1"
Subject: Re: Light Table
Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 14:03:18 -0800
Message-ID: <3.0.3.32.19971118140318.006abd94@mail.mpsi.net>
References: <<17113973809151@WIREDWEB.COM>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

>> Finally decided I need a light table - and am not one capable of=
 "building

>> it" myself - Delphi has one on sale for $120 (down from $150) for 24"x16"

>> plexiglass surface with "color-corrected lights" ...  Any and all advice

>> warmly welcomed!  Christmas is coming and my family might pitch in ...

>> namaste'  carol


Just curious as to why the color correction lights would be an advantage?=
 You just need to be able to see the pattern through the backside of the=
 glass right?  Just woundering as I am new to this.  Thanks

<color><param>ffff,0000,0000</param>          __                        =20
    ___   __        .ama     ,

       ,d888a                          ,d88888888888ba.  ,88"I)   d

      a88']8i                         a88".8"8)   `"8888:88  " _a8'

    .d8P' PP                        .d8P'.8  d)      "8:88:baad8P' =A9

   ,d8P' ,ama,   .aa,  .ama.g ,mmm  d8P' 8  .8'        88):888P'

  ,d88' d8[ "8..a8"88 ,8I"88[ I88' d88   ]IaI"        d8[

  a88' ]P "bm8mP8'(8'.8I  8[      d88'    `"         .88           =20
</color><color><param>0000,0000,ffff</param>Because it's

</color><color><param>ffff,0000,0000</param> ,88I ]P[  .I'.8     88' ,8'
I[  ,88P ,ama    ,ama,  d8[  .ama.g=20

 [88' I8, .I' ]8,  ,88B ,d8 aI   (88',88"8)  d8[ "8. 88 ,8I"88[        =20
</color><color><param>0000,0000,ffff</param>GOOD

</color><color><param>ffff,0000,0000</param> ]88  `8888"  '8888" "88P"8m"
   I88 88[ 8[ ]P "bm8m88[.8I  8[

 ]88,          _,,aaaaaa,_       I88 8"  8 ]P[  .I' 88 88' ,8' I[    =20
</color><color><param>0000,0000,ffff</param>For you!

</color><color><param>ffff,0000,0000</param> `888a,.=20
,aadd88888888888bma.   )88,  ,]I I8, .I' )88a8B ,d8 aI

   "888888PP"'        `8""""""8   "888PP'  `8888"  `88P"88P"8m"</color>
----
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From owner-glass Tue Nov 18 12:00:47 1997
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X-Path: mail.abelink.com!rbaker
From: Di Baker <rbaker@mail.abelink.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Handheld foiler
Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 14:05:17
Message-ID: <3.0.1.16.19971118140517.4d173c02@mail.abelink.com>
References: <<199711181755.LAA23648@ns.ictc.com>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi Dale...

Thanks for sending such great instructions! I have the Inland Foiler also &
don't really care for it so I thought I would try the hand held. I will
attempt to get the foil fed correctly tonight.

Purrs,

Di

At 11:52 AM 11/18/97 -0600, you wrote:
>Di-
>	I love the handheld foiler!  I have worn out several, and will never do
>foil work without one. I recommended them to my local supply shop too, but
>they can't figure out how to use them either.  It is simple really.... foil
>with backing attached goes in the slot on the far end.  Then remove a
>little of the paper backing, and send it (just the backing) through the
>next slot...right near the far end. (this removes the backing from the foil
>automatically as you work....although it does sometimes get hung up, and
>needs a little persuading)  Unbacked foil is now pulled to the working
>end... the one with the little roller, and I usually crimp it onto itself
>to make it easier to push under the roller, cut off the crimp and it is
>ready to go!
>
>The foiler is not always perfect at centering the foil on the glass.... but
>never really far off, and I view the time savings as well worth a little
>imperfection!
>
>Hope this helps... it took me a little while to figure out how to use it,
>but I think you will really like it once you do.
>
>Dale Bentley <bankers@ictc.com>
>
>----------
>> From: Di Baker <rbaker@wideload.abelink.com>
>> To: glass@bungi.com
>> Subject: Handheld foiler
>> Date: Tuesday, November 18, 1997 5:20 AM
>> 
>> Hi everyone...
>> 
>> I bought the glasstar hand held foiler to help me center the foil & speed
>> up the foiling process but I cannot figure out for the life of me the
>> correct way to load the foil. The instructions on the back of the package
>> leave alot to be desired <g> especially if you are left handed like I am.
>I
>> tried to reverse everything & finally gave up.
>> 
>> Any suggestions / directions would be appreciated.
>> 
>> Thanks!
>> 
>> Di Baker
>> 
>> ----
>> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>

----
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From owner-glass Tue Nov 18 12:19:19 1997
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X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: "INTERNET:glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Morton Safety Break System
Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 15:17:43 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov18.101743.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Message text written by Jerri:
=2E..>Morton Safety Bread System...<

Pretty funny faux pax.  I kinda like it the way you said it!


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From owner-glass Tue Nov 18 12:19:54 1997
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X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: "INTERNET:glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Riordan Artistry URL
Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 15:17:31 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov18.101731.0>
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Precedence: bulk

Message text written by INTERNET:glass@bungi.com
>On another theme: I am planning a move to Arizona next summer and I am
facing the task of packing up my workshop.  Any suggestions for making th=
e
move efficient/painless as possible?<

Oh man, I had to move my workshop 3 times last year.
Definitely not pleasant!  My best tips are:
- Mark all boxes with contents clearly labeled on the outside
- Don't try to stuff too many pieces of glass in the same box.
  It makes the box too heavy to handle safely.
- Don't bother wrapping all the little piece of glass up in
  paper.  Just put them in small boxes (not too heavy) &
  then add newspaper filler to keep the glass from
  shifting around during transport.
- Coffee cans with lids make great storage jars for small
  pieces of glass or supplies.
- Pink insulation board which comes in fan-fold sheets from
  your local hardware or home improvement store, make very
  good packing for large glass sheet and finished pieces.
- Buy lots of masking tape.

Good luck!
Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
----
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From owner-glass Tue Nov 18 13:12:20 1997
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X-Path: inspace.net!herba
From: "Herb Adler" <herba@inspace.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: Re: Cutting Surface
Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 16:07:48 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov18.11748.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0032_01BCF43C.1DDEFF60
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

"Homosote" board available at Building Supply Stores is firmer than =
ceiling tile and can take more abuse. Also takes heat well and can be =
used when soldering as a backing board. Usually comes in 4 ft x 8 ft =
size. Cut to size as needed.
-----Original Message-----
    From: Sally Lamb <slamb@remc7.k12.mi.us>
    To: glass@bungi.com <glass@bungi.com>
    Date: Tuesday, November 18, 1997 10:12 AM
    Subject: Cutting Surface
   =20
   =20
    Other than the Morton System and the Scoreboard, what are some of =
the other cutting surfaces of choice. I usually use a few layers of =
newspapers but the little slivers get stuck in the newspaper (we all =
know what can happen then). I've looked at the Morton System, but it =
looked like just another gadget to me plus cutting small pieces would be =
difficult. Your input would be appreciated.
   =20
    Sally=20

------=_NextPart_000_0032_01BCF43C.1DDEFF60
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type><TITLE>Cutting Surface</TITLE>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.71.1712.3"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&quot;Homosote&quot; board available =
at Building=20
Supply Stores is firmer than ceiling tile and can take more abuse. Also =
takes=20
heat well and can be used when soldering as a backing board. Usually =
comes in 4=20
ft x 8 ft size. Cut to size as needed.</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: =
5px">
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><B>-----Original =
Message-----</B><BR><B>From:=20
    </B>Sally Lamb &lt;<A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:slamb@remc7.k12.mi.us">slamb@remc7.k12.mi.us</A>&gt;<BR><B=
>To:=20
    </B><A href=3D"mailto:glass@bungi.com">glass@bungi.com</A> &lt;<A=20
    href=3D"mailto:glass@bungi.com">glass@bungi.com</A>&gt;<BR><B>Date:=20
    </B>Tuesday, November 18, 1997 10:12 AM<BR><B>Subject: </B>Cutting=20
    Surface<BR><BR></DIV></FONT>Other than the <I>Morton System</I> and =
the=20
    <I>Scoreboard</I>, what are some of the other cutting surfaces of =
choice. I=20
    usually use a few layers of newspapers but the little slivers get =
stuck in=20
    the newspaper (we all know what can happen then). I've looked at the =
Morton=20
    System, but it looked like just another gadget to me plus cutting =
small=20
    pieces would be difficult. Your input would be =
appreciated.<BR><BR>Sally=20
</BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0032_01BCF43C.1DDEFF60--

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From owner-glass Tue Nov 18 13:36:03 1997
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Light Table
Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 21:14:34 +0000
Message-ID: <1997Nov18.211434.0>
References: <<1997Nov18.51539.0@?>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

In message <1997Nov18.51539.0@?>, "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net> writes
>Carol J. Rochnowski wrote:
>> 
>> Finally decided I need a light table - and am not one capable of "building
>> it" myself - Delphi has one on sale for $120 (down from $150) for 24"x16"
>> plexiglass surface with "color-corrected lights" ...  Any and all advice
>> warmly welcomed!  Christmas is coming and my family might pitch in ...
>> namaste'  carol
>> 
>> ----
>> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
>
>you could probably get one cheaper from an art store, or a drafting
>supply store. if it's not cheaper, it should be bigger. though it may
>not have that color corect thing.
>
>---Mike Savad
>
Also check out your local photographic supply store.  They will probably
have light tables (used for checking negatives, etc.).  One person I
know got a second hand x-ray viewing light source from their local
hospital.  It is excellent & and I am very envious.
Steve
-- 
Steve Richard
----
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From owner-glass Tue Nov 18 14:01:31 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!LElsbury
From: LElsbury@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Morton Safety Break System
Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 16:58:58 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov18.115858.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I flip my morton board over when doing small pieces, as I too find the grid a
problem when doing small pieces.  What material is the Rainbow board made
from? 
LElsbury@aol.com
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From owner-glass Tue Nov 18 14:56:32 1997
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Cutting Surface
Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 21:11:50 +0000
Message-ID: <1997Nov18.211150.0>
References: <<199711181502.KAA16617@server.remc7.k12.mi.us>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Sally, et al.
   I too think these patented systems are gadgets which have a place for
some limited purposes.  The surface I normally use is the work bench
which is covered with 1/8 inch plywood attached at the edges of the
bench, giving some accommodation for "warped" and irregular glass.  I
also use a bench with a large table cloth on it for cutting down the
stock sheets.  The best surface is probably a soft rubber sheet placed
on the bench, as used by glaziers.  This is easy to clean, with brush or
mop.  It costs less and is versatile.  It does not lend itself to
repititious cutting of the same shapes, of course.

Steve

In message <199711181502.KAA16617@server.remc7.k12.mi.us>, Sally Lamb
<slamb@remc7.k12.mi.us> writes
>Other than the Morton System and the Scoreboard, what are some of the other
>cutting surfaces of choice. I usually use a few layers of newspapers but the
>little slivers get stuck in the newspaper (we all know what can happen
>then). I've looked at the Morton System, but it looked like just another
>gadget to me plus cutting small pieces would be difficult. Your input would
>be appreciated.
>
>Sally

-- 
Steve Richard
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From owner-glass Tue Nov 18 15:12:43 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!Beveler4
From: Beveler4@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Banding...
Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 18:12:03 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov18.13123.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

For a panel as large as the one that you described you could, like Charles
said use copper tubing, Ihave done this and it works well and you can form it
to some pretty wild shapes and as far as strenght you can't beat it . It
takes to solder very well also.Just a suggestion, definitely worth a try.
Beveler4@aol.com
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From owner-glass Tue Nov 18 15:23:17 1997
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X-Path: az.stratus.com!charlie
From: Charles Spitzer <charlie@az.stratus.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: Re: Banding...
Date: Tue, 18 Nov 97 16:22:27 -0700
Message-ID: <m0xXwyT-000LiCC@why.az.stratus.com>
References: <<1997Nov18.13123.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Customer Assistance Center, Stratus Computer, Inc.
Precedence: bulk

You wrote:
> For a panel as large as the one that you described you could, like Charles
> said use copper tubing, Ihave done this and it works well and you can form it
> to some pretty wild shapes and as far as strenght you can't beat it . It
> takes to solder very well also.Just a suggestion, definitely worth a try.
> Beveler4@aol.com

what size tubing do you recommend? 1/4" is pretty easy to bend, but would  
that hold up and be strong enough over a longish time period? it's not much  
stronger than 1/4" h lead, and not as resistent to bending as 1/2" h lead.

1/2" or larger is pretty hard to bend to follow irregular pieces without a  
pipe bender, although i can see using it for straight edges. what do you do at  
the corners?

---
Charles Spitzer
charlie@az.stratus.com
Customer Assistance Center
Stratus Computer, Inc.
Phoenix, AZ
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From owner-glass Tue Nov 18 15:41:49 1997
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X-Path: cyberramp.net!byronw
From: byronw@cyberramp.net
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: GlassHints/Frames-11/17
Summary: Authenticated sender is <byronw@cyberramp.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 17:43:45 +0000
Message-ID: <199711182340.RAA23875@mailhost.cyberramp.net>
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> From:          "Tyler, Roger D." <rogert@matnet.com>
> To:            glass@bungi.com
> Subject:       GlassHints/Frames-11/17
> Date:          Mon, 17 Nov 1997 14:35:48 -0800
> Reply-to:      glass@bungi.com

>
> 
> >Message text written by Jerri:
> >>       I know people were just talking about wood frames, and I've never>
> >used them.  I was wondering which products people liked best.  I've been
> >looking at the "Oak Framing Stock" that Delphi sells that comes in 6'
> >lengths.  They also have some pre-cut oak, which looks like it would be
> >good too.  W/C has some called "Pop-Lock" which look relatively simple,
> >but I'm not sure I'd like them because the corners aren't mitred.  I
> >would love anyone's opinions on these products or any other wood frame
> >products.
> >
> >        Also, what about the side mount chain hooks to eliminate " top
> >stress"?  Is it better for larger panels to be hung from the side rather
> >than the top?  What about small panels?  Does it matter?
> >Thanks,  Jerri<

I dont use any of the commercial frame stuff... Being a woodworker 
before getting into glass I make my own frames out of red oak and 
ash.. I also use some rought western red cedar on occaison if its a 
southwestern type panel...

All it takes is a table saw and router to make some nice frames at a 
fraction of the cost of  commercial stuff...

Someone else was posting about having trouble framing a large 
circular panel... A circular frame can be easily made from good 
plywood using a bandsaw...

You might try trading a local woodworker some glasswork for some 
frames...

  
Byron...

Wells Glassworks
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From owner-glass Tue Nov 18 16:24:42 1997
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X-Path: mfi.net!jcampbell
From: "jcampbell" <jcampbell@mfi.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1"; X-MAPIextension=".TXT"
Subject: Re: Light Table
Date: Tue, 18 Nov 97 16:25:39 PST
Message-ID: <1997Nov19.02539.0>
References: <<1997Nov18.51539.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Before you buy try True Color Light Box  by Diamond Tec.  We use it and =
working with art glass for lamps I find it does deserve it's name True =
Color, and is less than $100.00.

----------
>
> Carol J. Rochnowski wrote:
> >
> > Finally decided I need a light table - and am not one capable of "bui=
lding
> > it" myself - Delphi has one on sale for $120 (down from $150) for 24"=
x16"
> > plexiglass surface with "color-corrected lights" ...  Any and all adv=
ice
> > warmly welcomed!  Christmas is coming and my family might pitch in =
...
> > namaste'  carol
> >
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
>
> you could probably get one cheaper from an art store, or a drafting
> supply store. if it's not cheaper, it should be bigger. though it may
> not have that color corect thing.
>
> ---Mike Savad
>
> --
> Mike's Stained Glass
> http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
>  New Pages Added: Over 40 new stained glass links, Tips: How To Set Up =
A
> Shop, and My adventures with the Aliens.
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


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From owner-glass Tue Nov 18 16:36:14 1997
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X-Path: ob1.kenobe.edu.on.ca!amesken
From: Ken Ames <amesken@ob1.kenobe.edu.on.ca>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Handheld foiler
Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 18:33:02 -0600
Message-ID: <347233BD.F21C751E@ob1.kenobe.edu.on.ca>
References: <<3.0.1.16.19971118112057.29ef8472@mail.abelink.com>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Di:   I also have used the hand foiler in the same manner as described
by Dale Bentley.
Instead of crimping the foil I use a plastic twist tie.  Sticking the
copper glue side to the twist tie you can thread it down the foiler and
under the roller.  Cut twist tie off and reuse.
Just as suggestion.
Carol

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From owner-glass Tue Nov 18 16:55:56 1997
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X-Path: juno.com!jroey
From: jroey@juno.com (Jerri M Roey)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: GlassHints/Frames-11/17
Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 19:44:09 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov18.14449.0>
References: <<199711182340.RAA23875@mailhost.cyberramp.net>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


	Well, my husband does woodworking as a hobby.  He'd promised to
make me some frames for about 2 years now, so I finally went the other
day and bought a 6ft piece of the Northern Hardwoods.  I think this was
enough to motivate him.  (Maybe I should have done it sooner ;)

Jerri


>I dont use any of the commercial frame stuff... Being a woodworker 
>before getting into glass I make my own frames out of red oak and 
>ash.. I also use some rought western red cedar on occaison if its a 
>southwestern type panel...
>
>All it takes is a table saw and router to make some nice frames at a 
>fraction of the cost of  commercial stuff...
>
>Someone else was posting about having trouble framing a large 
>circular panel... A circular frame can be easily made from good 
>plywood using a bandsaw...
>
>You might try trading a local woodworker some glasswork for some 
>frames...
>
>  
>Byron...
>
>Wells Glassworks
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
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From owner-glass Tue Nov 18 16:56:00 1997
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X-Path: juno.com!jroey
From: jroey@juno.com (Jerri M Roey)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Banding...
Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 19:48:59 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov18.144859.0>
References: <<1997Nov17.133717.0>>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

	Has anyone seen the Poppy pattern that was in SGN an issue or so
ago?  I really liked it, but wanted to make it much bigger.  You wouldn't
be able to put a zinc border around it because one corner is not there. 
Would the twisted lead came work for a border around most of the piece,
leaving that one corner open?  This is really hard to explain, but if
you've seen the picture, you know what I'm talking about.

Jerri





>Lots of simple things can be done.  If you like the scalloped edge use 
>
>a large size of ball chain such as 3/8" (ball) this sells for about 
>$1.69 per foot.  A less expensive alternative is twisting any size 
>lead 
>came in a drill (slooowly), then wrapping the panel with it and 
>soldering them together.  Variations can be made by using different
>sizes 
>and types of came.  If your panel is wrapped in "H" came you could put 
>
>jack chain (or large size wire) into that and crimp the channel shut 
>except at the top where the hook would be located.  If the edge of the 
>
>panel is thin enough it could be wrapped in "ladder chain", this is 
>about $1.29 per foot.  Ladder chain is commonly used as a frame around
>etched bevels.
>
>The ball chain and the twisted came ideas must be soldered all the way 
>
>around the panel.  These will give the greatest rigidity.
>
>Almost anything that can be soldered will work to give both an 
>interesting frame and a structure that will support your panel.  I 
>always wanted to use copper tubing for free formed panels but never 
>had the time.
>
>BTW a round oak frame for a 24" panel sells for $65.95
>
>Charles Warner
>http://www.warner-criv.com/
>----
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>
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From owner-glass Tue Nov 18 18:18:57 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!Beveler4
From: Beveler4@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Two Questions
Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 21:17:29 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov18.161729.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Glasscat, What gallery are your works shown at in Dayton . I would love to
see them sometime as I do not live to far from Dayton and have some close
relatives in that area that I visit with often. Beveler4@aol.com
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From owner-glass Tue Nov 18 18:30:09 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!DGlswrks
From: DGlswrks@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Fellow Bungian Get Well!
Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 21:28:34 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov18.162834.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Anyone wishing to send Carolyn, a fellow bungian, an internet "Get Well", can
address it to:

 glasscat@infinet.com

To make a long story short, she tripped over one of her cats while running
through her house and caused herself some eye problems.

Make sure that you don't tell her that I told you though!

Dione


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From owner-glass Tue Nov 18 19:17:52 1997
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X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Light Table
Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 22:14:56 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov18.171456.0>
References: <<3.0.3.32.19971118140318.006abd94@mail.mpsi.net>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Terry wrote:
> 
> >> Finally decided I need a light table - and am not one capable of=
> "building
> >> it" myself - Delphi has one on sale for $120 (down from $150) for
> 24"x16"
> >> plexiglass surface with "color-corrected lights" ... Any and all
> advice
> >> warmly welcomed! Christmas is coming and my family might pitch in
> ...
> >> namaste' carol
> 
> Just curious as to why the color correction lights would be an
> advantage?= You just need to be able to see the pattern through the
> backside of the= glass right? Just woundering as I am new to this.
> Thanks
> __ =20 ___ __ .ama ,
> ,d888a ,d88888888888ba. ,88"I) d
> a88']8i a88".8"8) `"8888:88 " _a8'
> .d8P' PP .d8P'.8 d) "8:88:baad8P' =A9
> ,d8P' ,ama, .aa, .ama.g ,mmm d8P' 8 .8' 88):888P'
> ,d88' d8[ "8..a8"88 ,8I"88[ I88' d88 ]IaI" d8[
> a88' ]P "bm8mP8'(8'.8I 8[ d88' `" .88 =20 Because it's
> ,88I ]P[ .I'.8 88' ,8' I[ ,88P ,ama ,ama, d8[ .ama.g=20
> [88' I8, .I' ]8, ,88B ,d8 aI (88',88"8) d8[ "8. 88 ,8I"88[ =20 GOOD
> ]88 `8888" '8888" "88P"8m" I88 88[ 8[ ]P "bm8m88[.8I 8[
> ]88, _,,aaaaaa,_ I88 8" 8 ]P[ .I' 88 88' ,8' I[ =20 For you!
> `888a,.=20 ,aadd88888888888bma. )88, ,]I I8, .I' )88a8B ,d8 aI
> "888888PP"' `8""""""8 "888PP' `8888" `88P"88P"8m" ---- For
> subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send
> to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at
> http://www.bungi.com/glass


it's for seeing how the glass will look through a "sunlight like" bulb.
i just stick mine up to a incadescent laight, or the window.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
 New Pages Added: Over 40 new stained glass links, Tips: How To Set Up A
Shop, and My adventures with the Aliens.
----
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From owner-glass Wed Nov 19 01:10:07 1997
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X-Path: pobox.alaska.net!wildewk
From: Wildeworks <wildewk@pobox.alaska.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Light Table
Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 00:07:59 -0900
Message-ID: <1997Nov18.15759.0>
References: <<1997Nov18.211434.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

An easy light table is get a Morton Portable Glass Shop, then turn the board
over, put some light under it  and you have a nice light table. Works great for
me.
Dick
wildewk@pobox.alaska.net
Wildeworks
Glass Design
Fairbanks,AK

Steve Richard wrote:

> In message <1997Nov18.51539.0@?>, "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net> writes
> >Carol J. Rochnowski wrote:
> >>
> >> Finally decided I need a light table - and am not one capable of "building
> >> it" myself - Delphi has one on sale for $120 (down from $150) for 24"x16"
> >> plexiglass surface with "color-corrected lights" ...  Any and all advice
> >> warmly welcomed!  Christmas is coming and my family might pitch in ...
> >> namaste'  carol
> >>
> >> ----
> >> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> >> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> >> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> >
> >
> >you could probably get one cheaper from an art store, or a drafting
> >supply store. if it's not cheaper, it should be bigger. though it may
> >not have that color corect thing.
> >
> >---Mike Savad
> >
> Also check out your local photographic supply store.  They will probably
> have light tables (used for checking negatives, etc.).  One person I
> know got a second hand x-ray viewing light source from their local
> hospital.  It is excellent & and I am very envious.
> Steve
> --
> Steve Richard
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass



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From owner-glass Wed Nov 19 04:23:02 1997
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X-Path: memach.com!lcbell
From: Linda Campbell <lcbell@memach.com>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: RE: Morton Safety Break System
Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 07:24:01 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov19.2241.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Scoreboard is a hard surface like thin formica or enamel. The thing is =
only 1/4 to 5/16 inches thick so it's imperative that it be placed on a =
smoothe flat surface to give it strength.

Linda

----------
From: 	LElsbury@aol.com[SMTP:LElsbury@aol.com]
Sent: 	Tuesday, November 18, 1997 11:58 AM
To: 	glass@bungi.com
Subject: 	Re: Morton Safety Break System

I flip my morton board over when doing small pieces, as I too find the =
grid a
problem when doing small pieces.  What material is the Rainbow board =
made
from?=20
LElsbury@aol.com
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From owner-glass Wed Nov 19 04:25:22 1997
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From: Linda Campbell <lcbell@memach.com>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: RE: Cutting Surface
Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 07:26:34 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov19.22634.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I agree that a home made surgace and jig is the best but for those of us =
who don't have a permanent workshop area, somethimes the gadget just =
have to do. I have to put my sewing machine away and use the top of my =
sewing cabinet for a work surface. The scoreboard works for cutting and =
then I replace it with a piece of homosote (sp) when soldering.=20

Linda

----------
From: 	Steve Richard[SMTP:s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk]
Sent: 	Tuesday, November 18, 1997 4:11 PM
To: 	glass@bungi.com
Subject: 	Re: Cutting Surface

Sally, et al.
   I too think these patented systems are gadgets which have a place for
some limited purposes.  The surface I normally use is the work bench
which is covered with 1/8 inch plywood attached at the edges of the
bench, giving some accommodation for "warped" and irregular glass.  I
also use a bench with a large table cloth on it for cutting down the
stock sheets.  The best surface is probably a soft rubber sheet placed
on the bench, as used by glaziers.  This is easy to clean, with brush or
mop.  It costs less and is versatile.  It does not lend itself to
repititious cutting of the same shapes, of course.

Steve

In message <199711181502.KAA16617@server.remc7.k12.mi.us>, Sally Lamb
<slamb@remc7.k12.mi.us> writes
>Other than the Morton System and the Scoreboard, what are some of the =
other
>cutting surfaces of choice. I usually use a few layers of newspapers =
but the
>little slivers get stuck in the newspaper (we all know what can happen
>then). I've looked at the Morton System, but it looked like just =
another
>gadget to me plus cutting small pieces would be difficult. Your input =
would
>be appreciated.
>
>Sally

--=20
Steve Richard
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From owner-glass Wed Nov 19 07:00:34 1997
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X-Path: vdot.net!shyguy
From: Kilgore Trout <shyguy@vdot.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Cutting Surface
Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 09:49:48 -0800
Message-ID: <1997Nov19.14948.0>
References: <<1997Nov19.22634.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Cats Cradle Inc
Precedence: bulk

I use the Morton stuff for repetative, regular shapes, rectangles,
triangles etc. I use Homasote for most of the process, cutting, layup
(foiled), and solder. The Homasote seems more forgiving when I've missed
some glass chips or splinters. If cutting on wood, I've broken some
glass while scoring, if there are pieces of glass between the glass and
wood surface. I keep two workbench brushes on the table, (so I can't use
the excuse 'I can't find the brush') but don't always clear the area
well/often enuf. The guy who demo'd the Morton System at the W/C Glass
expo ( I think he was the owner of Morton), had two of their  light
table/tool boxes connected together, so the large Morton surface fit on
top.This looked neat, had storage space below, an could be lifted off
the table, so you could use the space for something else (like serve
dinner, if anyone else started out like I did).
Linda Campbell wrote:
<snip>

> . The scoreboard works for cutting and =
> then I replace it with a piece of homosote (sp) when soldering.=20
>
> Linda
>

'Every (person) must decide whether to walk in the light of creative
altruism or the darkness of selfishness. This is the judgement. Life's
most persistent and urgent question is "What are you doing for
others?'"Rev. Dr. Martin Luther King Jr.


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From owner-glass Wed Nov 19 08:17:38 1997
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X-Path: slonet.org!edupjohn
From: "Peggy W. Johnsen" <edupjohn@slonet.org>
To: Di Baker <rbaker@wideload.abelink.com>
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Handheld foiler
Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 08:14:39 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov19.01439.0>
References: <<3.0.1.16.19971118112057.29ef8472@mail.abelink.com>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi Di:

Threading the handheld foiler is fairly easy.  I usually separate the foil
from the backing leaving about an inch to serve to guide the tip.  With
the foil groove up and the slit at the end to the right, thread the tip of
the foil roll being sure the paper separates as it enters the groove.
Bring the foil along the groove and thread the tip through the little
casters at the left end of the foiler  (sometimes a pair of tweezers helps
to pull the foil through.

Not sure I have been clear on the directions, but the only other thing you
want to watch is to avoid twisting the foil because it will break and you
will end up having to re-thread it which is annoying.  Using the hand
foiler helps center the foil but it still requires guidance by the user.
PJ

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From owner-glass Wed Nov 19 08:40:09 1997
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X-Path: ee.net!pucky
From: "Sheila" <pucky@ee.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Re: Cutting Surface
Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 11:43:30 -0500
Message-ID: <199711191639.LAA13576@ee.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I too know that not everyone has a large working area.  My husband built me a 4x8
work bench in our basement.  On the top is Homasote <sp>.  It is fantastic.  I do everything on it
and it is very forgiving!  I use a small  hose type vaccum to pick up all my slivers of glass. 
This seems to work well for me.  

Sheila

----------
> From: Kilgore Trout <shyguy@vdot.net>
> To: glass@bungi.com
> Subject: Re: Cutting Surface
> Date: Wednesday, November 19, 1997 12:49 PM
> 
> I use the Morton stuff for repetative, regular shapes, rectangles,
> triangles etc. I use Homasote for most of the process, cutting, layup
> (foiled), and solder. The Homasote seems more forgiving when I've missed
> some glass chips or splinters. If cutting on wood, I've broken some
> glass while scoring, if there are pieces of glass between the glass and
> wood surface. I keep two workbench brushes on the table, (so I can't use
> the excuse 'I can't find the brush') but don't always clear the area
> well/often enuf. The guy who demo'd the Morton System at the W/C Glass
> expo ( I think he was the owner of Morton), had two of their  light
> table/tool boxes connected together, so the large Morton surface fit on
> top.This looked neat, had storage space below, an could be lifted off
> the table, so you could use the space for something else (like serve
> dinner, if anyone else started out like I did).
> Linda Campbell wrote:
> <snip>
> 
> > . The scoreboard works for cutting and =
> > then I replace it with a piece of homosote (sp) when soldering.=20
> >
> > Linda
> >
> 
> 'Every (person) must decide whether to walk in the light of creative
> altruism or the darkness of selfishness. This is the judgement. Life's
> most persistent and urgent question is "What are you doing for
> others?'"Rev. Dr. Martin Luther King Jr.
> 
> 
> ----
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> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
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From owner-glass Wed Nov 19 08:42:21 1997
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X-Path: remc7.k12.mi.us!slamb
From: Sally Lamb <slamb@remc7.k12.mi.us>
To: Stained Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Cutting surface
Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 11:40:18 -0500
Message-ID: <199711191641.LAA00756@server.remc7.k12.mi.us>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Thanks to all your suggestions of glass cutting surfaces. I think I'll try
that "Homosote" stuff.
Sal
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From owner-glass Wed Nov 19 09:13:28 1997
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From: BETTY_HALL@RJF2.RJF.COM (BETTY HALL)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: <None>
Date: 19 Nov 97 12:13:59 EST
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Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I'm looking for a pattern with Gargoyles - any suggestions?



Thanks in advance.



Betty

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From owner-glass Wed Nov 19 11:08:41 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!DMR74
From: DMR74@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Cutting surface
Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 14:07:37 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov19.9737.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

WELL Sal when you find homosote let me know I have shopped all the big lumber
hardware stores and still have not found it let alone someone who even knows
what it is.  Maybe someone can tell us what the real use for this is
deb
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From owner-glass Wed Nov 19 11:11:21 1997
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X-Path: juno.com!eldondo1
From: eldondo1@juno.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Handheld foiler
Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 11:37:38 -0600
Message-ID: <1997Nov19.53738.0>
References: <<3.0.1.16.19971118112057.29ef8472@mail.abelink.com>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

My PC crashed so I had 94 messages to read,The answers to your question
were fine except perhaps you would like to try my method,I put the foil
through the hand foiler paper side up, but i take the foil all the way
through and a little more than the length of the foiler(I have stopped
the sticking ) and now I separate the paper ,pull the foil back to the
end of the paper and then just be sure the paper peels up (from the
end)Also I do not use it as a HAND foiler , I c-clamp it to my bench and
stand ,or sit, and use Two hands to foil .This is my way ,any way you
find effective is great....More than one way to skin a cat.....OK?
Don DeVoto<eldondo1@juno.com> <eldondo@usroute66.net>

On Tue, 18 Nov 1997 11:20:57 Di Baker <rbaker@wideload.abelink.com>
writes:
>Hi everyone...
>
>I bought the glasstar hand held foiler to help me center the foil & 
>speed
>up the foiling process but I cannot figure out for the life of me the
>correct way to load the foil. The instructions on the back of the 
>package
>leave alot to be desired <g> especially if you are left handed like I 
>am. I
>tried to reverse everything & finally gave up.
>
>Any suggestions / directions would be appreciated.
>
>Thanks!
>
>Di Baker
>
>----
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>
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From owner-glass Wed Nov 19 11:21:59 1997
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X-Path: infinet.com!glasscat
From: Carolyn Noel <glasscat@infinet.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Two Questions
Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 14:12:59 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov19.91259.0>
References: <<1997Nov18.161729.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Carolyn's Creations
Precedence: bulk

Dear Beveler4:
I'm in The Rutledge Gallery on Main Street near the Upper Krust (I think
that's how they spell it). Really super people! Jeff Rutledge is a
well-known sculptor/painter. Haven't been doing much glass lately--laid
up with a detached retina. Bah humbug! Lousy time of year for something
like that. Anyway, the exact address is: 1964 N. Main 
Hope you're able to stop in--really nice place.
Carolyn
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From owner-glass Wed Nov 19 11:24:53 1997
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X-Path: ime.net!dplummer
From: Tina & Dave Plummer <dplummer@ime.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Homosote board
Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 14:22:04 -0500
Message-ID: <3.0.5.32.19971119142204.007a84f0@ime.net>
References: <<1997Nov19.9737.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

A person at a hardware store told me homosote is used as a soundproofing
material for walls.

Tina Plummer
dplummer@ime.net






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From owner-glass Wed Nov 19 11:36:19 1997
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X-Path: erols.com!jkeane
From: Robert & Jeanne <jkeane@erols.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Cutting surface
Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 14:35:09 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov19.9359.0>
References: <<1997Nov19.9737.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Hee Sun Stained Glass
Precedence: bulk

DMR74@aol.com wrote:
> 
> WELL Sal when you find homosote let me know I have shopped all the big lumber
> hardware stores and still have not found it let alone someone who even knows
> what it is.  Maybe someone can tell us what the real use for this is
> deb
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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Just did a search and found these results, perhaps they can locate a
supplier near you.  Hope this helps.




     Homasote Company
     Box 7240
     West Trenton, NJ 08628
     800-257-9491

Robert & Jeanne 
Hee Sun Stained Glass
"Bestows Pleasure"
jkeane@erols.com
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From owner-glass Wed Nov 19 11:36:23 1997
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X-Path: ll.mit.edu!cogen
From: David Cogen <cogen@ll.mit.edu>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Cutting surface
Date: Wed, 19 Nov 97 14:30:25 -0500
Message-ID: <9711191430.AA12219@LL.MIT.EDU>
References: <<1997Nov19.9737.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


> WELL Sal when you find homosote let me know I have shopped all the big lumber
> hardware stores and still have not found it let alone someone who even knows
> what it is.  Maybe someone can tell us what the real use for this is
> deb

I think I saw it in Home Depot being marketed as sound deadening panels. But
I'm not sure about that. I bought my 4x8 sheet several years ago and still
have more than I need.

Although homosote is a trademark, I think it's a common name, and it's rather
disturbing, the ignorance of so-called salespeople, that they didn't know what
it is, or to try harder to understand from you what it is that you wanted.

Good luck in your search. It is definitely available. Find a store that would
consider ordering it for you if they don't carry it.

-- David
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From owner-glass Wed Nov 19 11:52:26 1997
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X-Path: mail1.ciwemb.edu!jewell
From: "Connie Jewell" <jewell@mail1.ciwemb.edu>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Cutting surface
Date: 19 Nov 1997 14:50:08 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov19.9508.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

                      RE>>Cutting surface                          11/19/97

  I bought my at Home Depot, it came in a 4x8 sheet and the gentleman there
cut it down for me. So I have several different size pieces. It's also in my
lab at work, it covers the back side of a partition wall and we us it as a
bulletin board, sticking push pins in to hold things.

Jewell
jewell@mail1.ciwemb.edu


--------------------------------------
Date: 11/19/97 2:26 PM
To: Connie Jewell
From: glass@bungi.com
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From: DMR74@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Cutting surface
Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 14:07:37 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov19.9737.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

WELL Sal when you find homosote let me know I have shopped all the big lumber
hardware stores and still have not found it let alone someone who even knows
what it is.  Maybe someone can tell us what the real use for this is
deb
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From owner-glass Wed Nov 19 12:40:29 1997
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X-Path: juno.com!eldondo1
From: eldondo1@juno.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Cutting surface
Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 14:02:04 -0600
Message-ID: <1997Nov19.824.0>
References: <<1997Nov19.9737.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Homosote in St.Louis. Is sold ,sometimes, as bed board,The local Hardware
is Hill-Behan, perhaps I could ask them who the distributer is and be of
some help.....
Don DeVoto<eldondo1@juno.com> <eldondo@usroute66.net>

On Wed, 19 Nov 1997 14:07:37 -0500 (EST) DMR74@aol.com writes:
>WELL Sal when you find homosote let me know I have shopped all the big 
>lumber
>hardware stores and still have not found it let alone someone who even 
>knows
>what it is.  Maybe someone can tell us what the real use for this is
>deb
>----
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From owner-glass Wed Nov 19 12:43:30 1997
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X-Path: juno.com!jroey
From: jroey@juno.com (Jerri M Roey)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Cutting surface
Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 14:11:05 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov19.9115.0>
References: <<199711191641.LAA00756@server.remc7.k12.mi.us>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Another vote for Homosote.  I cut repetitive geometrics on the Morton,
but do everything else on the homosote.  Before soldering, I lay down a
piece of white butcher paper to work on, and then put my project on it. 
I also keep a brush close by and frequently wipe of the homosote when I'm
cutting.

Jerri
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From owner-glass Wed Nov 19 13:14:56 1997
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X-Path: juno.com!eldondo1
From: eldondo1@juno.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Handheld foiler
Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 14:11:19 -0600
Message-ID: <1997Nov19.81119.0>
References: <<3.0.1.16.19971118112057.29ef8472@mail.abelink.com>>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Just noticed error!!!Sorry  when I said separate,I meant to say ,cut the
paper,after separating  from the foil and then pull the foil back to
where you have cut the paper off and let it peel up from the
end............................etc. Sorry for poor explanation...        
                                   Don DeVoto<eldondo1@juno.com>
<eldondo@usroute66.net>

On Wed, 19 Nov 1997 11:37:38 -0600 eldondo1@juno.com writes:
>My PC crashed so I had 94 messages to read,The answers to your 
>question
>were fine except perhaps you would like to try my method,I put the 
>foil
>through the hand foiler paper side up, but i take the foil all the way
>through and a little more than the length of the foiler(I have stopped
>the sticking ) and now I separate the paper ,pull the foil back to the
>end of the paper and then just be sure the paper peels up (from the
>end)Also I do not use it as a HAND foiler , I c-clamp it to my bench 
>and
>stand ,or sit, and use Two hands to foil .This is my way ,any way you
>find effective is great....More than one way to skin a cat.....OK?
>Don DeVoto<eldondo1@juno.com> <eldondo@usroute66.net>
>
>On Tue, 18 Nov 1997 11:20:57 Di Baker <rbaker@wideload.abelink.com>
>writes:
>>Hi everyone...
>>
>>I bought the glasstar hand held foiler to help me center the foil & 
>>speed
>>up the foiling process but I cannot figure out for the life of me the
>>correct way to load the foil. The instructions on the back of the 
>>package
>>leave alot to be desired <g> especially if you are left handed like I 
>
>>am. I
>>tried to reverse everything & finally gave up.
>>
>>Any suggestions / directions would be appreciated.
>>
>>Thanks!
>>
>>Di Baker
>>
>>----
>>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>>
>----
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>
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From owner-glass Wed Nov 19 13:20:25 1997
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X-Path: inspace.net!herba
From: "Herb Adler" <herba@inspace.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Homosote board
Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 16:16:01 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov19.11161.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

The person at the hdwe store is wrong. It probably has some soundproofing
qualities but that is not its primary purpose. Anyway, what it's used for in
the building trade is not important. It's great for laying out pieces and
soldering them on top of it. It is quite rigid and has excellent heat
resistant properties. I don't think it will burn at very high temperatures.
I'll try to get more information on the product.
-----Original Message-----
From: Tina & Dave Plummer <dplummer@ime.net>
To: glass@bungi.com <glass@bungi.com>
Date: Wednesday, November 19, 1997 2:44 PM
Subject: Homosote board


>A person at a hardware store told me homosote is used as a soundproofing
>material for walls.
>
>Tina Plummer
>dplummer@ime.net
>
>
>
>
>
>
>----
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>

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From owner-glass Wed Nov 19 13:22:10 1997
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From: "Suzanne Haley"<shaley@mfi.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re[2]: Cutting surface   -- homosote board
Date: Wed, 19 Nov 97 12:23:37 -0800
Message-ID: <9711198799.AA879972704@sf-mail.mfi.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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     Went wandering on the web--found an article by Martha Stewart 
     (http://www.detnew.com/homestyl/9602/martha/martha.html)
     Says Homosote (which is the name of the manufacturer) board is 
     relatively lightweight pressed board (1/2 inch thick) made from 
     recycled newspapers.  Hard, rigid material is easily penetrated by 
     tacks, nails or staples.  Can be found in lumberyards, in 4-by-8foot 
     sheets for about $17 to $22 a sheet.
     
     I called our local outlet in Northern California, they had it.  It is 
     gray in color, used for sound absorbing features and pin up boards. 
     Suzanne Haley
     
     
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: Cutting surface 
Author:  <glass@bungi.com > at Internet 
Date:    11/19/97 2:07 PM
     
     
WELL Sal when you find homosote let me know I have shopped all the big lumber 
hardware stores and still have not found it let alone someone who even knows 
what it is.  Maybe someone can tell us what the real use for this is
deb
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From owner-glass Wed Nov 19 13:44:55 1997
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X-Path: matnet.com!rogert
From: "Tyler, Roger D." <rogert@matnet.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Location: City/State
Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 12:41:49 -0800
Message-ID: <1.5.4.32.19971119204149.0068ae24@primary.matnet.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi Carolyn,
Sorry to hear about your detached retina, a real bummer. Hope you are on the mend. Nice to know where you are located... now if we only knew what city, or better yet, what STATE you were in...

Some of the bungi people seem to know each other and perhaps already know where others are located. For us newbies though, it sure would be nice if each writer could note their location following their name/signature.  Some already do and it's great! How about the rest of you?  Wouldn't it be nice to know WHERE all these comments/questions are coming from?
Rojean
Anchorage, Alaska

At 02:12 PM 11/19/97 -0500, you wrote:
>Dear Beveler4:
>I'm in The Rutledge Gallery on Main Street near the Upper Krust (I think
>that's how they spell it). Really super people! Jeff Rutledge is a
>well-known sculptor/painter. Haven't been doing much glass lately--laid
>up with a detached retina. Bah humbug! Lousy time of year for something
>like that. Anyway, the exact address is: 1964 N. Main 
>Hope you're able to stop in--really nice place.
>Carolyn
>----
>
----
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From owner-glass Wed Nov 19 13:48:25 1997
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From: "Tyler, Roger D." <rogert@matnet.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Handheld foiler
Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 12:46:04 -0800
Message-ID: <1.5.4.32.19971119204604.00680800@primary.matnet.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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Hi Don,  your suggestion for threading the foil thru the foiler sounds great, I (for one) certainly plan to try it.  I also would like to try C-clamping it to bench top.  Can you describe how you do this?  I can't seem to figure it out.  Sounds like it would be great.
Rojean
Anchorage, Alaska

At 11:37 AM 11/19/97 -0600, you wrote:
>My PC crashed so I had 94 messages to read,The answers to your question
>were fine except perhaps you would like to try my method,I put the foil
>through the hand foiler paper side up, but i take the foil all the way
>through and a little more than the length of the foiler(I have stopped
>the sticking ) and now I separate the paper ,pull the foil back to the
>end of the paper and then just be sure the paper peels up (from the
>end)Also I do not use it as a HAND foiler , I c-clamp it to my bench and
>stand ,or sit, and use Two hands to foil .This is my way ,any way you
>find effective is great....More than one way to skin a cat.....OK?
>Don DeVoto<eldondo1@juno.com> <eldondo@usroute66.net>
>
>On Tue, 18 Nov 1997 11:20:57 Di Baker <rbaker@wideload.abelink.com>
>writes:
>>Hi everyone...
>>
>>I bought the glasstar hand held foiler to help me center the foil & 
>>speed
>>up the foiling process but I cannot figure out for the life of me the
>>correct way to load the foil. The instructions on the back of the 
>>package
>>leave alot to be desired <g> especially if you are left handed like I 
>>am. I
>>tried to reverse everything & finally gave up.
>>
>>Any suggestions / directions would be appreciated.
>>
>>Thanks!
>>
>>Di Baker
>>
----
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From owner-glass Wed Nov 19 14:06:43 1997
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X-Path: intrastar.net!ssuter
From: Shirley Suter <ssuter@intrastar.net>
To: "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Homosote board
Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 04:05:59 -0600
Message-ID: <1997Nov18.22559.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Intrastellar Internet Service & Suter's Stained Glass
Precedence: bulk

> Can be found in lumberyards, in 4-by-8foot sheets for about $17 > to $22 a sheet.

OUCH!!!  This explains why I use sheetrock (gypsum board) instead!  It
seems to offer the same properties (takes tacks, nails, staples and
pushpins well, is lightweight and heat resistant), but the price is
sooooo much cheaper (or often FREE, if you don't mind dumpster-diving!).

Shirley
Grapeland, Tx.
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From owner-glass Wed Nov 19 14:33:56 1997
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X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Cutting surface
Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 17:30:58 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov19.123058.0>
References: <<1997Nov19.9737.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

DMR74@aol.com wrote:
> 
> WELL Sal when you find homosote let me know I have shopped all the big lumber
> hardware stores and still have not found it let alone someone who even knows
> what it is.  Maybe someone can tell us what the real use for this is
> deb
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


it can be used as a buliten board, or a super large dart board. i think
sometimes it's used as an underlay material to deaden sound. the
material is grey in color, and has no splinters, just dust.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
 New Pages Added: Over 40 new stained glass links, Tips: How To Set Up A
Shop, and My adventures with the Aliens.
----
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From owner-glass Wed Nov 19 15:30:37 1997
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From: leestat7 <leestat7@home.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Cutting Surface
Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 18:26:59 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov19.132659.0>
References: <<1997Nov19.14948.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: @Home Network
Precedence: bulk

I've found 'ceiling tiles' , available at stores like Lowes and Home
Depot a cheap and disposable soldering board solution.  They are not as
durable as homosote, but work just fine for 3-5 projects, then when they
are gummed up with flux or whatever, send them to the recycler.  They
take pins, and are  heat proof.  Use the gray (back) side to work on. 
Plus, they come in sheets that are about 2' x 4', and easily to score
and cut/break to use just the size you need.  I just put it over my
Morton light box, or straight on the work table.  Price is about $1.50
US.  

Lee Boe
Rain-Boe's Creations

> . The scoreboard works for cutting and =
> then I replace it with a piece of homosote (sp) when soldering.=20
>
> Linda
>
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From owner-glass Wed Nov 19 15:50:40 1997
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From: byronw@cyberramp.net
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: GlassHints/Frames-11/17
Summary: Authenticated sender is <byronw@cyberramp.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 17:50:05 +0000
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> From:          jroey@juno.com (Jerri M Roey)
> To:            glass@bungi.com
> Subject:       Re: GlassHints/Frames-11/17
> Date:          Tue, 18 Nov 1997 19:44:09 -0500
> Reply-to:      glass@bungi.com

> 
> 	Well, my husband does woodworking as a hobby.  He'd promised to
> make me some frames for about 2 years now, so I finally went the other
> day and bought a 6ft piece of the Northern Hardwoods.  I think this was
> enough to motivate him.  (Maybe I should have done it sooner ;)
> 
> Jerri


 Hehehe... My wife knows that feeling about me getting around to 
things......Took me almost 6 months to finally finish my glass panel 
for our reef tank topper...


Byron...

Wells Glassworks
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From owner-glass Wed Nov 19 17:13:46 1997
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X-Path: juno.com!jroey
From: jroey@juno.com (Jerri M Roey)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Homosote board
Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 17:52:28 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov19.125228.0>
References: <<1997Nov19.11161.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


Forgot to mention that my piece of homosote came from Home Depot for just
a few dollars.  It's been a while, but I think it was about $3.  One end
was damaged so the price was marked way down, but after cutting off a
foot or so, it still left more than I could fit on my worktable, so I've
got the extra aside for when this wears out.

Jerri
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From owner-glass Wed Nov 19 18:10:25 1997
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X-Path: inspace.net!herba
From: "Herb Adler" <herba@inspace.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Homosote board
Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 21:05:24 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov19.16524.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I found the Web Page for Homasote. It has been made since the early 1900's
from recycled waste paper. I don't know what they add to it but it is great.
To learn more http://www.pakline.com/index2.html.
-----Original Message-----
From: Shirley Suter <ssuter@intrastar.net>
To: glass@bungi.com <glass@bungi.com>
Date: Wednesday, November 19, 1997 5:25 PM
Subject: Re: Homosote board


>> Can be found in lumberyards, in 4-by-8foot sheets for about $17 > to $22
a sheet.
>
>OUCH!!!  This explains why I use sheetrock (gypsum board) instead!  It
>seems to offer the same properties (takes tacks, nails, staples and
>pushpins well, is lightweight and heat resistant), but the price is
>sooooo much cheaper (or often FREE, if you don't mind dumpster-diving!).
>
>Shirley
>Grapeland, Tx.
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>

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From owner-glass Wed Nov 19 19:18:31 1997
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X-Path: juno.com!kdeck
From: kdeck@juno.com (k a s)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Cutting surface
Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 22:15:55 EST
Message-ID: <1997Nov20.31555.0>
References: <<1997Nov19.9737.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

>>when you find homosote let me know I have shopped all the big lumber
hardware stores and still have knows what it is.  Maybe someone can tell
us what the real use for this is
deb<<

Try asking for beaverboard.  Popular in the '40's for interior walls.

Hope this helps,
Karen
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From owner-glass Wed Nov 19 20:03:50 1997
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X-Path: juno.com!eldondo1
From: eldondo1@juno.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Handheld foiler
Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 21:53:42 -0600
Message-ID: <1997Nov19.155342.0>
References: <<1.5.4.32.19971119204604.00680800@primary.matnet.com>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Thanks, If you mean how do I handle the foil work after i c-clamp it to
the bench,Its just letting an inch or so of the foil out of the foiler
and press on to the glass with thumb and forefinger so it doesn't slip 
off,then pressing the glass against the plastic wheel and rotating the
glass as needed,keeping it against the wheel as much as possible, at your
overlap pull it away slightly and cut the foil and then everything is the
same as hand holding (the foiler that is ) Ha Ha. As they say ,try it,
you'll like it...I hope this is a help to some who wish to try it I have
been doing glass for 19 years and foiling this way for 9.Oh yes I get to
sit down too......
Don DeVoto<eldondo1@juno.com> <eldondo@usroute66.net>

On Wed, 19 Nov 1997 12:46:04 -0800 "Tyler, Roger D." <rogert@matnet.com>
writes:
>Hi Don,  your suggestion for threading the foil thru the foiler sounds 
>great, I (for one) certainly plan to try it.  I also would like to try 
>C-clamping it to bench top.  Can you describe how you do this?  I 
>can't seem to figure it out.  Sounds like it would be great.
>Rojean
>Anchorage, Alaska
>
>At 11:37 AM 11/19/97 -0600, you wrote:
>>My PC crashed so I had 94 messages to read,The answers to your 
>question
>>were fine except perhaps you would like to try my method,I put the 
>foil
>>through the hand foiler paper side up, but i take the foil all the 
>way
>>through and a little more than the length of the foiler(I have 
>stopped
>>the sticking ) and now I separate the paper ,pull the foil back to 
>the
>>end of the paper and then just be sure the paper peels up (from the
>>end)Also I do not use it as a HAND foiler , I c-clamp it to my bench 
>and
>>stand ,or sit, and use Two hands to foil .This is my way ,any way you
>>find effective is great....More than one way to skin a cat.....OK?
>>Don DeVoto<eldondo1@juno.com> <eldondo@usroute66.net>
>>
>>On Tue, 18 Nov 1997 11:20:57 Di Baker <rbaker@wideload.abelink.com>
>>writes:
>>>Hi everyone...
>>>
>>>I bought the glasstar hand held foiler to help me center the foil & 
>>>speed
>>>up the foiling process but I cannot figure out for the life of me 
>the
>>>correct way to load the foil. The instructions on the back of the 
>>>package
>>>leave alot to be desired <g> especially if you are left handed like 
>I 
>>>am. I
>>>tried to reverse everything & finally gave up.
>>>
>>>Any suggestions / directions would be appreciated.
>>>
>>>Thanks!
>>>
>>>Di Baker
>>>
>----
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>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
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From owner-glass Thu Nov 20 05:11:35 1997
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X-Path: remc7.k12.mi.us!slamb
From: Sally Lamb <slamb@remc7.k12.mi.us>
To: Stained Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: My Location
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997 08:06:47 -0500
Message-ID: <199711201308.IAA00256@server.remc7.k12.mi.us>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hello All,
This is Sally Lamb. I'm in Holland, Michigan. My E-mail address is my place
of employment which is Zeeland Public Schools in Zeeland, MI where I'm the
Admin. Asst. to the Superintendent (but I'd rather be home doing glass
work).

Sal
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From owner-glass Thu Nov 20 05:44:11 1997
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X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: "INTERNET:glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Using a light table for color
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997 08:43:15 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov20.34315.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I use my light table primarily for color selection.
When my clients come in to select the glass to go
into the pattern (if I am not going out to the site for
glass selection), then the light table is invaluable.
This way we can lay the glass samples out together
on the light table, and see what the glass will look
like with sunlight coming through.  So I can do color
selection and consultation safely (no holding up of
sheets of glass overhead) and after the sun has
gone down.  The clients like it.

Also, I have a very large light table in the middle
of my studio.  I will frequently leave a completed
piece laying on it, with the lights turned on, while I am
working on something else.  It's a very effective
marketing tool.  The light shining through the stained
glass really draws in a customer's attention.

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
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From owner-glass Thu Nov 20 05:46:32 1997
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X-Path: juno.com!diamonds
From: diamonds@juno.com (Mary J Austin)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Cutting surface
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997 08:31:10 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov20.33110.0>
References: <<1997Nov19.9737.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

It's used for flooring and it can be found at all Carter Lee Building
stores. You can order it if need be.
Mary



On Wed, 19 Nov 1997 14:07:37 -0500 (EST) DMR74@aol.com writes:
>WELL Sal when you find homosote let me know I have shopped all the big 
>lumber
>hardware stores and still have not found it let alone someone who even 
>knows
>what it is.  Maybe someone can tell us what the real use for this is
>deb
>----
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>
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From owner-glass Thu Nov 20 06:45:13 1997
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X-Path: ll.mit.edu!cogen
From: David Cogen <cogen@ll.mit.edu>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Homosote board
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 97 09:41:08 -0500
Message-ID: <9711200941.AA24435@LL.MIT.EDU>
References: <<1997Nov18.22559.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


> OUCH!!!  This explains why I use sheetrock (gypsum board) instead!  It
> seems to offer the same properties (takes tacks, nails, staples and
> pushpins well, is lightweight and heat resistant), but the price is
> sooooo much cheaper (or often FREE, if you don't mind dumpster-diving!).

"OUCH" ???

Considering that a single sheet should last a lifetime, the price seems
trivial.

By the way, I wonder what 32 square feet of glass might cost; a couple hundred
dollars, I'd guess.

-- David
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From owner-glass Thu Nov 20 07:35:43 1997
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X-Path: intrastar.net!ssuter
From: Shirley Suter <ssuter@intrastar.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Homosote board
Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 21:33:12 -0600
Message-ID: <1997Nov19.153312.0>
References: <<9711200941.AA24435@LL.MIT.EDU>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Intrastellar Internet Service & Suter's Stained Glass
Precedence: bulk

David Cogen wrote:
> 
> > OUCH!!!  This explains why I use sheetrock (gypsum board) instead!  It
> > seems to offer the same properties (takes tacks, nails, staples and
> > pushpins well, is lightweight and heat resistant), but the price is
> > sooooo much cheaper (or often FREE, if you don't mind dumpster-diving!).

> "OUCH" ???
> Considering that a single sheet should last a lifetime, the price seems
> trivial.
> By the way, I wonder what 32 square feet of glass might cost; a couple hundred
> dollars, I'd guess.

Exactly $21.12 if we are talking about the glue-chip I recently
purchased This is where I spent the bucks instead of purchasing
homosote.

I've used homosote in the past and like it as much as sheetrock.  It
didn't last a lifetime, but that's probably my fault.

Shirley
Grapeland, Tx.

Shirley
Grapeland, Tx.
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From owner-glass Thu Nov 20 07:42:06 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!DMR74
From: DMR74@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Cutting surface
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997 10:40:46 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov20.54046.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

been to Home Depot in TX and they don't even know what it is there
(Homosote).  They just opened in our area this month maybe I will find
someone who knows something soon.
deb
Buna, TX
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From owner-glass Thu Nov 20 08:27:13 1997
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X-Path: abelink.com!rbaker
From: Di Baker <rbaker@abelink.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Location
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997 10:08:01 -0500
Message-ID: <v03007802b09a01ef19f7@[206.29.84.161]>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Great idea to see where everyone is located. We might want to hold a get
together sometime?

I live in Lincoln IL -- center of the state pretty much. The only town in
USA named after Abe before he became President. He used to lawyer in these
parts. Hence why my e-mail address is abelink.com <g>.

On another list we have groups & try to meet yearly...such as Midwestern
group. Anyone interested?

Have a wonderful day!

Di

~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~*~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~*
                _ |\_
                \` ..\   Di Baker       <rbaker@abelink.com>
           __,.-" =__Y=  Kitties--Bogie Blue, Chanel Blue, Sarah,
   jgs   ."        )              Tornado, Cagney
   _    /   ,    \/\_    Wanna see how cute we are? Visit us at:
  ((____|    )_-\ \_-`   http://www.islandnet.com/~jbrooks/di1.htm
  `-----'`-----` `--`
~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~*~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* 


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From owner-glass Thu Nov 20 08:29:48 1997
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X-Path: ll.mit.edu!cogen
From: David Cogen <cogen@ll.mit.edu>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Cutting surface
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 97 11:19:31 -0500
Message-ID: <9711201119.AA02832@LL.MIT.EDU>
References: <<1997Nov20.54046.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


> been to Home Depot in TX and they don't even know what it is there
> (Homosote).  They just opened in our area this month maybe I will find
> someone who knows something soon.

I wonder if it's a northern thing?


I've been quiet in the discussion on cutting surfaces. Here's what I do:

I use homosote underneath. This is soft, so it protects the cutter if I slip
off the glass. On top of the homosote I spread several layers of
newspaper. Every few cuts I pick up the front edge of the newspaper, causing
most of the shards to fall towards the back. Some do remain, being slightly
embedded in the newspaper. So after a while I simply discard the top layer of
newspaper, exposing a clean sheet underneath.

I don't like the brushing idea, feeling that this might cause too much
airborne glass dust. Of course it could be misted with a water sprayer to keep
the dust down though.

I don't claim that's the best solution, but it seems to work OK for me.


On my earlier claim that homosote would last a lifetime: please permit me to
retract that hastily made statement. I doubt that it would. But I do feel that
it is a reasonable, fairly inexpensive solution.


-- David
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From owner-glass Thu Nov 20 09:12:25 1997
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X-Path: mail.nildram.co.uk!glass
From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: APRIL  98 IN HOLLAND, EUROPE !!
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@mail.nildram.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997 18:09:08 +0000
Message-ID: <199711201710.RAA16966@pluto.nildram.co.uk>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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Dear Bunginians,

Following the successful trip in April 97 to Cratres in France, 
Judith Robinson of Samuel Whitbread College, Bedfordshire, UK and 
Elisabeth of North Lights Stained Glass in UK are NOW putting 
together another trip, this time to Holland.
What sparked this off (in preference to Glasgow, UK) was the fact 
that a "flower arranging class" at Samuel Whitbread wants to go and 
see the Bulbs in Bloom in Holland.

What could be more inspiring for the stained glass artist (or the 
painter!) than the spectacular colours of fresh flowers, fresh tulips 
in full bloom, field after field of them, bless their cotton 
socks....!

So this time around Judith and Elisabeth are planning a 6-7 day trip, 
again leaving from UK AROUND 26/7 APRIL 1998.
We are hoping to cover Antwerp, The Bulb Fields and Amsterdam.
In Amsterdam, the focus must surely be the Van Gogh Museum and the 
Rijksmuseum, and - perhaps for the braver ones - a forray into the 
"Other (in)famous District of Amsterdam....    ;-)

Financing VERY much in line with previous trip (i.e. as economical as 
possible, yet comfortable and affordable to the common pocket).
For our lovely visitors from "Across The Big Pond", Judith and 
Elisabeth will make special arrangements while you are here in UK.
Programme, exact dates and exact costs to be advised ASAP. (Very much 
in line with the UK Sterling costs of last trip, but since there will 
be another day or two extra to the trip, you will need to take this 
into account)


(Martin Streng in Antwerp; If you are still "lurking", I am hoping to 
make contact with you in a  couple of days or so....)

 REGISTER YOUR INTEREST   N O W   !!!!
 
Initially with Elisabeth at e-mail: toby@northlights.co.uk and/ or 
with Judith      at e-mail  judy@wenslumlodge.demon.co.uk


....AND, don't tell me I don't work fast!!!
;-o
My Very Best to you ALL!
Elisabeth 'n Toby in UK
----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
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From owner-glass Thu Nov 20 09:13:00 1997
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X-Path: mail.fidnet.com!dawnm
From: Dawn <dawnm@mail.fidnet.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; X-MAPIextension=".TXT"
Subject: Filigree for Miniature Stained Glass Houses
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 97 11:11:16 PST
Message-ID: <1997Nov20.191116.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi Everyone,

This is Dawn.  I have been on a stained glass hiatus for the last 5 month=
s and just resubscribed to the group.  It's definitely good to "hear" fro=
m everyone again.

I wanted to throw something out to the group for some suggestions.  I am =
making some miniature houses/buildings, etc. and am currently looking at =
purchasing the filigree refills for the "Deelightful Heirlooms" collectio=
n.  My question is, "Is there a way I could make the filigree myself?"

Does anyone know what kind of metal, weight, etc. the filigree is made =
of?
Is it possible to buy sheets of this and cut out your own filigree?
What would cut out the intricate shapes?

If anyone has any experience with the filigree for these miniatures I wou=
ld definitely appreciate any advice you can give me.

Dawn
In the Ozark Mountains of Missouri

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From owner-glass Thu Nov 20 09:26:27 1997
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X-Path: ee.net!pucky
From: "Sheila" <pucky@ee.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Re: Cutting surface
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997 12:30:38 -0500
Message-ID: <199711201726.MAA11903@ee.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

not knowing where Buna TX is...I lived in Bastrop TX. and got my homosote at a lumberyard in
Austin. I can't remember the name of the lumberyard but you may try calling Austin Stain Glass as
they were the ones that told me where I could by it. I do remember it being in northern Austin. 
And yes I was a fool to leave that warm climate and move to Ohio! <g>.  Hope that can be of some
help.

Sheila :)

----------
> From: DMR74@aol.com
> To: glass@bungi.com
> Subject: Re: Cutting surface
> Date: Thursday, November 20, 1997 10:40 AM
> 
> been to Home Depot in TX and they don't even know what it is there
> (Homosote).  They just opened in our area this month maybe I will find
> someone who knows something soon.
> deb
> Buna, TX
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
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From owner-glass Thu Nov 20 09:59:44 1997
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X-Path: matnet.com!rogert
From: "Tyler, Roger D." <rogert@matnet.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Cutting surface
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997 08:57:27 -0800
Message-ID: <1.5.4.32.19971120165727.00688a4c@primary.matnet.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Mary, I may be the only one, but I have never heard of 'Carter Lee Bldg'. Where is it?


At 08:31 AM 11/20/97 -0500, you wrote:
>It's used for flooring and it can be found at all Carter Lee Building
>stores. You can order it if need be.
>Mary
>
>
>
>On Wed, 19 Nov 1997 14:07:37 -0500 (EST) DMR74@aol.com writes:
>>WELL Sal when you find homosote let me know I have shopped all the big 
>>lumber
>>hardware stores and still have not found it let alone someone who even 
>>knows
>>what it is.  Maybe someone can tell us what the real use for this is
>>deb
>>----
>>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>>
>----
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>
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From owner-glass Thu Nov 20 11:03:09 1997
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From: The Crew <pristine@gr.cns.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: My Location
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997 13:56:47 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov20.85647.0>
References: <<199711201308.IAA00256@server.remc7.k12.mi.us>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Pristine Glass Co.
Precedence: bulk

Hi sally et al. I'm in Grand Rapids, MI. Ther are a lot of glass people
in michigan. I can think of four on the web. 
Sally Lamb wrote:
> 
> Hello All,
> This is Sally Lamb. I'm in Holland, Michigan.
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From owner-glass Thu Nov 20 11:43:12 1997
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X-Path: computer.net!alewis
From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@vgernet.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Temperature of Shop
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@computer.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997 14:47:43 +0000
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> > Central NY and it's cold already.  The temperature today down there is 53
> > degrees,  I assume this is too cold to cut glass.  I brought up the pieces

There is no connection of any kind between the temperature of your 
shop, the temperature of the glass being cut, and the ability of the 
glass to be cut.  I've heard people say that they warm their glass up 
to make it "cut more easily" ... whatever.

Warming the glass might make working with it more comfortable for you 
as the cutter of the glass, but it has nothing to do with whether the 
glass itself will cut better, faster, or more easily.  Sorry.

Albert Lewis

International Guild of Glass Artists, Inc.
A 501(c)(6) not-for-profit association
Tonetta Lake Road, Brewster NY 10509
(413) 663-5512  ... fax line to come soon
_____________________________________________
Home page http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/
Members' work http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/links.htm
Sources Guide http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/guide.htm
Guild Library  http://www.aiap.com/amazon/



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From owner-glass Thu Nov 20 11:43:12 1997
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X-Path: computer.net!alewis
From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@vgernet.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Riordan Artistry URL
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@computer.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997 14:47:42 +0000
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> I just tried the address posted (http://www.riordanartistry.com) and was
> told by Netscape that the address does not have a registerd domain name.

That's just the web's way of giving you a "busy signal."  Try again.

I get that message sometimes on web sites that I own myself or manage 
for others.  I *know they exist and that they have DNS entries, yet I 
get the splash telling me they don't exist and don't have entries. 
Ignore the message and try again.  If you continue to get it, you 
might have a spelling error in the URL. Check that, too.

Albert


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From owner-glass Thu Nov 20 12:10:07 1997
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X-Path: flash.net!bunzie
From: Lori <bunzie@flash.net>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="---- =_NextPart_000_01BCF5C6.2C46D2E0"
Subject: RE: Temperature of Shop
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997 15:08:01 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov20.1081.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


------ =_NextPart_000_01BCF5C6.2C46D2E0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Albert...I thought the same thing, but being fairly new to this, I =
didn't wanna open mouth and insert foot.  Why would warming glass make =
it cut easier?  Good thing you posted that  before I tried to cram a =
sheet in my microwave!!! Ha ha!    Happy cuttin' (warm or not) =
everybody!!

~Lori
Southeastern Michigan

----------
From: 	Albert Lewis[SMTP:alewis@vgernet.net]
Sent: 	Thursday, November 20, 1997 9:47 AM
To: 	glass@bungi.com
Subject: 	Re: Temperature of Shop


> > Central NY and it's cold already.  The temperature today down there =
is 53
> > degrees,  I assume this is too cold to cut glass.  I brought up the =
pieces

There is no connection of any kind between the temperature of your=20
shop, the temperature of the glass being cut, and the ability of the=20
glass to be cut.  I've heard people say that they warm their glass up=20
to make it "cut more easily" ... whatever.

Warming the glass might make working with it more comfortable for you=20
as the cutter of the glass, but it has nothing to do with whether the=20
glass itself will cut better, faster, or more easily.  Sorry.

Albert Lewis

International Guild of Glass Artists, Inc.
A 501(c)(6) not-for-profit association
Tonetta Lake Road, Brewster NY 10509
(413) 663-5512  ... fax line to come soon
_____________________________________________
Home page http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/
Members' work http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/links.htm
Sources Guide http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/guide.htm
Guild Library  http://www.aiap.com/amazon/



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From owner-glass Thu Nov 20 12:11:16 1997
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X-Path: usaor.net!3hounds
From: Gloria <3hounds@usaor.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Filigree for Miniature Stained Glass Houses
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997 15:10:41 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov20.101041.0>
References: <<1997Nov20.191116.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Dawn, I don't know if this will help, but last year I bought 
the Wordon's Bass Fan Lamp that also has filigrees for the 
fins.. I did receive 1 set of fins.. I bought a sheet of 
copper foil (from local retailer) and I traced the fins on 
the foil.. I than  cut the blank spaces out with  a fine 
point x-acto knife.. I burnished this to my clean glass and 
than wrapped it normally with copper foil.. When I finished 
soldering it, it was completely raised up and looked quite 
nice.. (and I still have the original filigree for more bass 
lamps.  So if you have one filigree you might be able to do 
the same thing..

Gloria, from Gibsonia, PA, just north of Pittsburgh



Dawn wrote:
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> This is Dawn.  I have been on a stained glass hiatus for the last 5 month=
> s and just resubscribed to the group.  It's definitely good to "hear" fro=
> m everyone again.
> 
> I wanted to throw something out to the group for some suggestions.  I am =
> making some miniature houses/buildings, etc. and am currently looking at =
> purchasing the filigree refills for the "Deelightful Heirlooms" collectio=
> n.  My question is, "Is there a way I could make the filigree myself?"
> 
> Does anyone know what kind of metal, weight, etc. the filigree is made =
> of?
> Is it possible to buy sheets of this and cut out your own filigree?
> What would cut out the intricate shapes?
> 
> If anyone has any experience with the filigree for these miniatures I wou=
> ld definitely appreciate any advice you can give me.
> 
> Dawn
> In the Ozark Mountains of Missouri
> 
> ----
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From owner-glass Thu Nov 20 13:18:01 1997
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X-Path: Wittenberg.EDU!CUTLER
From: cutler@Wittenberg.EDU
To: Albert Lewis <alewis@vgernet.net>
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Riordan Artistry URL
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997 16:16:34 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov20.111634.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


Thanks for the advice.  I tried the URL again and sure enough it appeared
in all its glory.  Beautiful work.  Worth the wait.
Bob Cutler

On Thu, 20 Nov 1997, Albert Lewis wrote:

> 
> I get that message sometimes on web sites that I own myself or manage 
> for others.  I *know they exist and that they have DNS entries, yet I 
> get the splash telling me they don't exist and don't have entries. 
> Ignore the message and try again.  If you continue to get it, you 
> might have a spelling error in the URL. Check that, too.
> 
> Albert
> 
> 
> ----
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> 

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From owner-glass Thu Nov 20 13:29:19 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!Margaret41
From: Margaret41@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Venice , Italy
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997 16:28:11 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov20.112811.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Thank you for the info on Venice, Italy...we leave for Florence on Monday -
hopefully we will have time for this side trip...I'm new to stained glass and
have been obsessed with it!...the threads i have read have been informative,
enlightening, and sometimes, quite funny!  will be logged back on when we
return...ciao!!!
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From owner-glass Thu Nov 20 13:35:52 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!Margaret41
From: Margaret41@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Cutting surface
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997 16:34:44 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov20.113444.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Try Home Depot...it should be the the dry wall, etc. section. A 4x8' size
board is about $15.00 (USA$$).  Some of the more well stocked stained glass
stores sell them also.
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From owner-glass Thu Nov 20 13:43:39 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!LElsbury
From: LElsbury@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Cutting surface
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997 16:42:27 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov20.114227.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Regarding homosote - I was told it use to be used in flooring, and I guess
still is to some extent.  I have found it at Menards and Carter Lumber in
Indianapolis, IN.  I thought Menards was a national chain but maybe not.  I'm
not sure about Carter Lumber.  Hope this helps.
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From owner-glass Thu Nov 20 13:55:46 1997
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X-Path: computer.net!alewis
From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@computer.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: RE: Temperature of Shop
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@computer.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997 17:02:27 +0000
Message-ID: <199711202155.QAA19853@ns.computer.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


> Albert...I thought the same thing, but being fairly new to this, I =
> didn't wanna open mouth and insert foot.  Why would warming glass make =
> it cut easier? 

Lori,

Aw, go ahead and insert foot. I do it often enough myself, but I 
doublechecked the facts on the cuttability of glass with regard to 
its temperature and confirmed what I've long understood.

The "other myth" of stained glass cutting is that once you've scored 
it you have to break it pretty soon. Otherwise, the score will begin 
to "heal" and you won't be able to break along it.

That happens to be correct.  When you score glass, what you're 
actually doing is breaking the surface tension of the glass (as you 
would with a liquid ... remember "glass is a supercooled liquid"? 
Well, that happens to be correct, too. If you don't run the score, 
the surface tension begins to reassert itself and the score's no 
good, in the sense that you won't be able to use it as a break line.

It's just more of what makes glass such an interesting and intriguing 
material. <s>

Albert

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From owner-glass Thu Nov 20 14:03:12 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!DMR74
From: DMR74@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Homosote board
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997 17:01:41 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov20.12141.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

boy am I glad you all didn't first recomend sheet rock, :) I have done way
too much sheet rock work in the last several years and you don't want to be
around me when I can feel that horrible sheet rock dust or mud.  I will
continue my hunt for a place that sells homosote around here.  I am narrowing
it down to maybe an acoustics place like drywallers for comercial businesses.
deb
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From owner-glass Thu Nov 20 14:03:16 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!DMR74
From: DMR74@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: My Location
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997 17:01:37 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov20.12137.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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Welcome aboard Sal just wait till you get all these e-mails at work
deb
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From owner-glass Thu Nov 20 14:18:19 1997
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X-Path: netrox.net!athena
From: "M.-J. Taylor" <athena@netrox.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Riordan Artistry URL
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997 17:17:49 -0500
Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.19971120171749.006f2bec@pop.netrox.net>
References: <<199711201942.OAA16128@ns.computer.net>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

At 02:47 PM 11/20/97 +0000, you wrote:
> 
>> I just tried the address posted (http://www.riordanartistry.com) and was
>> told by Netscape that the address does not have a registerd domain name.
>
>That's just the web's way of giving you a "busy signal."  Try again.
>
>I get that message sometimes on web sites that I own myself or manage 
>for others.  I *know they exist and that they have DNS entries, yet I 
>get the splash telling me they don't exist and don't have entries. 
>Ignore the message and try again.  If you continue to get it, you 
>might have a spelling error in the URL. Check that, too.


Or you might not be connected to the Internet ... sometimes I try to browse
when I'm offline and the same error message is displayed ...

M.-J.
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From owner-glass Thu Nov 20 14:18:54 1997
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X-Path: netrox.net!athena
From: "M.-J. Taylor" <athena@netrox.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Welcome Home, Dawn
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997 17:15:28 -0500
Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.19971120171528.006e00c8@pop.netrox.net>
References: <<1997Nov20.191116.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Welcome Back, Dawn!

You've been missed around here!

Cheers,

M.-J.

At 11:11 AM 11/20/97 PST, you wrote:
>Hi Everyone,
>
>This is Dawn.  I have been on a stained glass hiatus for the last 5 month=
>s and just resubscribed to the group.  It's definitely good to "hear" fro=
>m everyone again.


*%*%*%*%*%*%*%*%*%*%*%*%*%*%*%*%*%*%*%*%*%*%*%*%*%*%*%*%*%*%*%*%*%*%*%*%*%*%
*%*

M.-J. Taylor
athena@netrox.net

When you talk about your troubles, your ailments, your diseases, your
hurts, you give longer life to what makes you unhappy. Talking about your
grievances merely adds to those grievances.  Give recognition only to what
you desire.  Think and talk only aout the good things that add to your
enjoyment of your work and life.  If you don't talk about your grievances,
you'll be delighted to find them disappearing quickly.      
                                            (Or so says Thomas Dreier)

*%*%*%*%*%*%*%*%*%*%*%*%*%*%*%*%*%*%*%*%*%*%*%*%*%*%*%*%*%*%*%*%*%*%*%*%*%*%*%*
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From owner-glass Thu Nov 20 14:30:20 1997
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X-Path: netrox.net!athena
From: "M.-J. Taylor" <athena@netrox.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: My Location
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997 17:26:58 -0500
Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.19971120172658.006f152c@pop.netrox.net>
References: <<199711201308.IAA00256@server.remc7.k12.mi.us>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Well, I'm happy as a clam down here in the Florida Keys ... 

that's why they say: location, location, location!

;D

M.-J.

At 08:06 AM 11/20/97 -0500, you wrote:
>Hello All,
>This is Sally Lamb. I'm in Holland, Michigan. My E-mail address is my place
>of employment which is Zeeland Public Schools in Zeeland, MI where I'm the
>Admin. Asst. to the Superintendent (but I'd rather be home doing glass
>work).
>
>Sal
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
>


****What I write is just what *I* think. Take what *you* like and leave the
rest.****

M.-J. Taylor 
<athena@bridge.net> 

Although we cannot change the direction of the wind,
              we can adjust our sails. (Unknown)

 
                                              |\                ( )
 _____________________________________________|_\_____________________
                                              -----             -_-_
                                                               -- - -
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From owner-glass Thu Nov 20 15:42:49 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!ncscoutr
From: NC Scouter <ncscoutr@aol.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-2
Subject: Re: My Location
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997 19:20:11 -0800
Message-ID: <1997Nov20.112011.0>
References: <<3.0.1.32.19971120172658.006f152c@pop.netrox.net>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Shoreline Glassworks, Ltd.
Precedence: bulk

> At 08:06 AM 11/20/97 -0500, you wrote:
> >Hello All,
> >This is Sally Lamb. I'm in Holland, Michigan. My E-mail address is my place
> >of employment which is Zeeland Public Schools in Zeeland, MI where I'm the
> >Admin. Asst. to the Superintendent (but I'd rather be home doing glass
> >work).
> >
> >Sal
> >----
> >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> >To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> >
> >
M.-J. Taylor wrote:
> 
> Well, I'm happy as a clam down here in the Florida Keys ...
> that's why they say: location, location, location!
> 
> ;D
> 
> M.-J.
> 
> ****What I write is just what *I* think. Take what *you* like and leave the
> rest.****
> 
> M.-J. Taylor
> <athena@bridge.net>
> 
> Although we cannot change the direction of the wind,
>               we can adjust our sails. (Unknown)
>                                               |\                ( )
>  _____________________________________________|_\_____________________
>                                               -----             -_-_
>                                                                -- - -
> ----

Hello to y'all too!

I can see the light!!!!  (The Cape Hatteras Light that is...)  I'm stuck
here in the middle of the East Coast on the Outer Banks of North
Carolina, aka the "graveyard of the Atlantic", "playground of the East
Coast", "home of the 'Lost Colony'", hurricane central, etc., etc.,
etc...  It's beautiful, the folks are the greatest, and the winters are
MILD!  Lotsa opportunities for glass too! ;-D

V T Phelps
Shoreline Glassworks, Ltd.
Wanchese, North Carolina


--				 ________
"But we have this treasure	 |      |
in jars of clay..."		(        )
			        (        )
2cor4.7niv			(________)

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From owner-glass Thu Nov 20 16:02:40 1997
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X-Path: erols.com!jkeane
From: Hee Sun Stained Glass <jkeane@erols.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: My location
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997 19:02:34 -0500
Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.19971120190234.00697e54@pop.erols.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


Well since all are jumping in I figured I'd join in.
We're located just outside good old Baltimore, Maryland in Reisterstown.
Although the Outer Banks of North Carolina sure sounds good right about now.

Robert &  Jeanne 
Hee Sun Stained Glass 
"Bestow Pleasure"


jkeane@erols.com

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From owner-glass Thu Nov 20 16:20:57 1997
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	for rglass-42; Thu, 20 Nov 1997 16:20:17 -0800 (PST)
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X-Path: vdot.net!shyguy
From: Kilgore Trout <shyguy@vdot.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
Subject: url in 50 words or less was Re: Riordan Artistry URL
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997 19:11:37 -0800
Message-ID: <1997Nov20.111137.0>
References: <<3.0.1.32.19971120171749.006f2bec@pop.netrox.net>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Cats Cradle Inc
Precedence: bulk

<HTML>
URLS are a human oriented interface to the Net. A web site has what's called
an IP address which goes something like 205.999.0.999. This is the absolute
routing directions to a server. www.bungi.com is a readily readable alias
that is easier for humans to remember. When you hit enter or click on a
URL, a message is sent to a server that interprets the url into an IP address.
If the servers near to you are down, or busy, you don't get a valid ip
address, and the message you get back&nbsp; from your browser is accurate,
but not always useful. As suggested, try again later.&nbsp;&nbsp;
<BR>M.-J. Taylor wrote:
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE>At 02:47 PM 11/20/97 +0000, you wrote:
<BR>>
<BR>>> I just tried the address posted (<A HREF="http://www.riordanartistry.com">http://www.riordanartistry.com</A>)
and was
<BR>>> told by Netscape that the address does not have a registerd domain
name.
<BR>>
<BR>>Or you might not be connected to the Internet ... sometimes I try
to browse
<BR>when I'm offline and the same error message is displayed ...

<P>M.-J.
<BR><A HREF="http://www.bungi.com/glass"></A>&nbsp;</BLOCKQUOTE>
&nbsp;

<P>--
<BR>'Every (person) must decide whether to walk in the light of creative
altruism or the darkness of selfishness. This is the judgement. Life's
most persistent and urgent question is "What are you doing for others?'"Rev.
Dr. Martin Luther King Jr.
<BR>&nbsp;</HTML>

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From owner-glass Thu Nov 20 16:35:14 1997
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X-Path: az.stratus.com!charlie
From: Charles Spitzer <charlie@az.stratus.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: Re: IP addresses in URL's was Re: url in 50 words or less
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 97 17:33:46 -0700
Message-ID: <m0xYh2b-000LiCC@why.az.stratus.com>
References: <<3.0.1.32.19971120171749.006f2bec@pop.netrox.net>>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Customer Assistance Center, Stratus Computer, Inc.
Precedence: bulk

You wrote:
> URLS are a human oriented interface to the Net. A web site has what's called
> an IP address which goes something like 205.999.0.999. This is the absolute
> routing directions to a server. www.bungi.com is a readily readable alias
> that is easier for humans to remember. When you hit enter or click on a
> URL, a message is sent to a server that interprets the url into an IP
> address. If the servers near to you are down, or busy, you don't get a valid
> ip address, and the message you get back&nbsp; from your browser is accurate,
> but not always useful. As suggested, try again later.

and for the techno-geeks, this is how you find out the ip address of any site name:

nslookup bungi.com
Server:  nitro.ts.stratus.com
Address:  134.111.18.9

res_mkquery(0, bungi.com, 1, 1)
------------
Got answer:
    HEADER:
        opcode = QUERY, id = 4, rcode = NOERROR
        header flags:  response, want recursion, recursion avail.
        questions = 1,  answers = 2,  authority records = 4,  additional = 7

    QUESTIONS:
        bungi.com, type = A, class = IN
    ANSWERS:
    ->  bungi.com
        internet address = 206.14.228.2
        ttl = 21515 (5 hours 58 mins 35 secs)
    ->  bungi.com
        internet address = 207.126.97.2
        ttl = 21515 (5 hours 58 mins 35 secs)
    AUTHORITY RECORDS:
    ->  bungi.com
        nameserver = DAVER.bungi.com
        ttl = 134337 (1 day 13 hours 18 mins 57 secs)
    ->  bungi.com
        nameserver = UUCP-GW-1.PA.DEC.COM
        ttl = 134337 (1 day 13 hours 18 mins 57 secs)
    ->  bungi.com
        nameserver = UUCP-GW-2.PA.DEC.COM
        ttl = 134337 (1 day 13 hours 18 mins 57 secs)
    ->  bungi.com
        nameserver = NS.NOVELL.COM
        ttl = 134337 (1 day 13 hours 18 mins 57 secs)
    ADDITIONAL RECORDS:
    ->  DAVER.bungi.com
        internet address = 207.126.97.2
        ttl = 172726 (1 day 23 hours 58 mins 46 secs)
    ->  DAVER.bungi.com
        internet address = 206.14.228.2
        ttl = 172726 (1 day 23 hours 58 mins 46 secs)
    ->  UUCP-GW-1.PA.DEC.COM
        internet address = 204.123.2.18
        ttl = 169113 (1 day 22 hours 58 mins 33 secs)
    ->  UUCP-GW-1.PA.DEC.COM
        internet address = 16.1.0.18
        ttl = 169113 (1 day 22 hours 58 mins 33 secs)
    ->  UUCP-GW-2.PA.DEC.COM
        internet address = 16.1.0.19
        ttl = 169113 (1 day 22 hours 58 mins 33 secs)
    ->  NS.NOVELL.COM
        internet address = 137.65.1.1
        ttl = 134337 (1 day 13 hours 18 mins 57 secs)
    ->  NS.NOVELL.COM
        internet address = 137.65.4.1
        ttl = 5085 (1 hour 24 mins 45 secs)

------------
Non-authoritative answer:
Name:    bungi.com
Addresses:  206.14.228.2, 207.126.97.2
------------

if you then use the ip numeric address instead of the sitename in your url,  
you can then get there without having to do the dns lookup. since lookup  
daemons are frequently busy, this means you can usually get to the site  
without any problems at all.

regards,
charlie
---
Charles Spitzer
charlie@az.stratus.com
Customer Assistance Center
Stratus Computer, Inc.
Phoenix, AZ
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From owner-glass Thu Nov 20 16:50:58 1997
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From: pansy <pansy@concentric.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: unscribe
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997 19:04:30 -0500
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References: <<1997Nov19.153312.0>>
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unscribe
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From owner-glass Thu Nov 20 17:06:03 1997
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X-Path: home.com!leestat7
From: leestat7 <leestat7@home.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Location
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997 20:02:53 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov20.15253.0>
References: <<v03007802b09a01ef19f7@[206.29.84.161]>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: @Home Network
Precedence: bulk

I am here in Sarasota, Florida, sometimes known as the 'Arts Capital' of
Florida.  Weather is usually great, lots of flora and fauna.  My
home/office/studio overlooks a small lake, and have set up my computer
by the back window so I can look out at the lake when on the computer. 
I owe a bunch of e-mail to folks here who welcomed me back after my
move, and will get to them shortly (or longly as the case may be?) So is
anyone else on bungi.com in driving distance to Sarasota?  (about 1 hour
south of Tampa, on the Gulf Coast)  Would love to meet and 'coffee
chat'.  Elisabeth, owe you several msgs and I do others, but not yet
unpacked.  I am interested in the Europe trips, and hope for a good
winter show season so I can afford it.  Will e-mail everyone privately.

Best Wishes to All,

Lee Boe

Di Baker wrote:
> 
> Great idea to see where everyone is located. We might want to hold a get
> together sometime?
> 
> I live in Lincoln IL -- center of the state pretty much. The only town in
> USA named after Abe before he became President. He used to lawyer in these
> parts. Hence why my e-mail address is abelink.com <g>.
> 
> On another list we have groups & try to meet yearly...such as Midwestern
> group. Anyone interested?
> 
> Have a wonderful day!
> 
> Di
> 
> ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~*~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~*
>                 _ |\_
>                 \` ..\   Di Baker       <rbaker@abelink.com>
>            __,.-" =__Y=  Kitties--Bogie Blue, Chanel Blue, Sarah,
>    jgs   ."        )              Tornado, Cagney
>    _    /   ,    \/\_    Wanna see how cute we are? Visit us at:
>   ((____|    )_-\ \_-`   http://www.islandnet.com/~jbrooks/di1.htm
>   `-----'`-----` `--`
> ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~*~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~*
> 
> ----
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> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
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From owner-glass Thu Nov 20 17:13:48 1997
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X-Path: home.com!leestat7
From: leestat7 <leestat7@home.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Temperature of Shop
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997 20:10:18 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov20.151018.0>
References: <<199711201942.OAA16135@ns.computer.net>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: @Home Network
Precedence: bulk

My limited experience with difficult cutting glass seems to contradict
this, Albert.  By warming (with a light) a piece of 'drapery' or bulls
eye, it really does cut better.  Even if it is just 'in my head' I will
continue, as I rarely get a 'bad break' if the glass is hot (just pretty
warm to the touch)  I have a movable arm 100 watt lamp right over the
cutting area, and just pull it down to about 6 inches above the glass
for a few minutes. 

Ducking before the MSG's fly-------
Lee Boe
Rain-Boe's Creations

PS just found my Membership billing, and sent it in today, Albert,
Thanks


Albert Lewis wrote:
> 
> > > Central NY and it's cold already.  The temperature today down there is 53
> > > degrees,  I assume this is too cold to cut glass.  I brought up the pieces
> 
> There is no connection of any kind between the temperature of your
> shop, the temperature of the glass being cut, and the ability of the
> glass to be cut.  I've heard people say that they warm their glass up
> to make it "cut more easily" ... whatever.
> 
> Warming the glass might make working with it more comfortable for you
> as the cutter of the glass, but it has nothing to do with whether the
> glass itself will cut better, faster, or more easily.  Sorry.
> 
> Albert Lewis
> 
> International Guild of Glass Artists, Inc.
> A 501(c)(6) not-for-profit association
> Tonetta Lake Road, Brewster NY 10509
> (413) 663-5512  ... fax line to come soon
> _____________________________________________
> Home page http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/
> Members' work http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/links.htm
> Sources Guide http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/guide.htm
> Guild Library  http://www.aiap.com/amazon/
> 
> ----
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From owner-glass Thu Nov 20 17:33:10 1997
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X-Path: earthlink.net!jeksac
From: John Keller <jeksac@earthlink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: IP addresses in URL's was Re: url in 50 words or less
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997 19:35:04 -0600
Message-ID: <1997Nov20.13354.0>
References: <<m0xYh2b-000LiCC@why.az.stratus.com>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Admin Kit Investigator
Precedence: bulk

Charlie,
I, for one, am impressed - i think i'll be better off staying a museum
director (but now i know who to email for H-E-L-P.....
Linn

Charles Spitzer wrote:
> 
> You wrote:
> > URLS are a human oriented interface to the Net. A web site has what's called
> > an IP address which goes something like 205.999.0.999. This is the absolute
> > routing directions to a server. www.bungi.com is a readily readable alias
> > that is easier for humans to remember. When you hit enter or click on a
> > URL, a message is sent to a server that interprets the url into an IP
> > address. If the servers near to you are down, or busy, you don't get a valid
> > ip address, and the message you get back&nbsp; from your browser is accurate,
> > but not always useful. As suggested, try again later.
> 
> and for the techno-geeks, this is how you find out the ip address of any site name:
> 
> nslookup bungi.com
> Server:  nitro.ts.stratus.com
> Address:  134.111.18.9
> 
> res_mkquery(0, bungi.com, 1, 1)
> ------------
> Got answer:
>     HEADER:
>         opcode = QUERY, id = 4, rcode = NOERROR
>         header flags:  response, want recursion, recursion avail.
>         questions = 1,  answers = 2,  authority records = 4,  additional = 7
> 
>     QUESTIONS:
>         bungi.com, type = A, class = IN
>     ANSWERS:
>     ->  bungi.com
>         internet address = 206.14.228.2
>         ttl = 21515 (5 hours 58 mins 35 secs)
>     ->  bungi.com
>         internet address = 207.126.97.2
>         ttl = 21515 (5 hours 58 mins 35 secs)
>     AUTHORITY RECORDS:
>     ->  bungi.com
>         nameserver = DAVER.bungi.com
>         ttl = 134337 (1 day 13 hours 18 mins 57 secs)
>     ->  bungi.com
>         nameserver = UUCP-GW-1.PA.DEC.COM
>         ttl = 134337 (1 day 13 hours 18 mins 57 secs)
>     ->  bungi.com
>         nameserver = UUCP-GW-2.PA.DEC.COM
>         ttl = 134337 (1 day 13 hours 18 mins 57 secs)
>     ->  bungi.com
>         nameserver = NS.NOVELL.COM
>         ttl = 134337 (1 day 13 hours 18 mins 57 secs)
>     ADDITIONAL RECORDS:
>     ->  DAVER.bungi.com
>         internet address = 207.126.97.2
>         ttl = 172726 (1 day 23 hours 58 mins 46 secs)
>     ->  DAVER.bungi.com
>         internet address = 206.14.228.2
>         ttl = 172726 (1 day 23 hours 58 mins 46 secs)
>     ->  UUCP-GW-1.PA.DEC.COM
>         internet address = 204.123.2.18
>         ttl = 169113 (1 day 22 hours 58 mins 33 secs)
>     ->  UUCP-GW-1.PA.DEC.COM
>         internet address = 16.1.0.18
>         ttl = 169113 (1 day 22 hours 58 mins 33 secs)
>     ->  UUCP-GW-2.PA.DEC.COM
>         internet address = 16.1.0.19
>         ttl = 169113 (1 day 22 hours 58 mins 33 secs)
>     ->  NS.NOVELL.COM
>         internet address = 137.65.1.1
>         ttl = 134337 (1 day 13 hours 18 mins 57 secs)
>     ->  NS.NOVELL.COM
>         internet address = 137.65.4.1
>         ttl = 5085 (1 hour 24 mins 45 secs)
> 
> ------------
> Non-authoritative answer:
> Name:    bungi.com
> Addresses:  206.14.228.2, 207.126.97.2
> ------------
> 
> if you then use the ip numeric address instead of the sitename in your url,
> you can then get there without having to do the dns lookup. since lookup
> daemons are frequently busy, this means you can usually get to the site
> without any problems at all.
> 
> regards,
> charlie
> ---
> Charles Spitzer
> charlie@az.stratus.com
> Customer Assistance Center
> Stratus Computer, Inc.
> Phoenix, AZ
> ----
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From owner-glass Thu Nov 20 17:45:54 1997
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X-Path: mssb.net!Tperri
From: Tperri@mssb.net
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re:Location
Date: 20 Nov 1997 20:48:20 EDT
Message-ID: <m0xYi8r-0000vWC@daver.bungi.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi All!

I am new to stained glass, the internet,  and to this group.  I have
learned so much already from all your great input.  I am from Toronto,
Canada. It's a wonderful place with excellent stained glass stores.

Thanks for all the tips!

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From owner-glass Thu Nov 20 18:33:02 1997
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X-Path: pobox.com!Northernlights
From: Northernlights <Northernlights@pobox.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: My Location
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997 20:34:37 -0600
Message-ID: <1997Nov20.143437.0>
References: <<199711201308.IAA00256@server.remc7.k12.mi.us>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Quiet one here -- I'm in St. Paul, Minnesota, otherwise known as the
Great White North.  I really appreciate all the tips I've been reading
-- I'm new to stained glass and reading all the e-mails has helped in
more than a couple of areas.  Thanks again everyone!
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From owner-glass Thu Nov 20 18:47:10 1997
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X-Path: juno.com!jroey
From: jroey@juno.com (Jerri M Roey)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Sun catcher prices
Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 21:07:04 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov18.1674.0>
References: <<1997Nov18.35623.0>>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


	I haven't been to a craft show in quite a while, and I'm a
hobbiest with no plans of trying to turn this into an income right now,
but can someone give me an idea of what to charge for a suncatcher.  I
was really doing this as a favor for a friend (it's to be a gift for her
mom).  It was that frog that everyone gave me so much helpful information
on the inside curves.  It was 12 pieces, not the easiest darn light
catcher, but it came out looking really good.  It seems like from what I
remember seeing, people wouldn't pay more than $10 or $15 for something
anyway, and that's why you see the really simple things out there.  Well,
I was going to just ask for the cost of materials and barter some
babysitting time (which is worth more to me than money), but my friend
insisted on paying me $20.  Does this seem reasonable?  I don't think I
like doing business with friends because I feel like I'm taking
advantage, but I did put some time into this little frog.

Obviously not a good businesswoman,

Jerri
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From owner-glass Thu Nov 20 18:54:55 1997
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X-Path: mfi.net!jcampbell
From: "jcampbell" <jcampbell@mfi.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1"; X-MAPIextension=".TXT"
Subject: Site for Carol Conti
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 97 22:42:12 PST
Message-ID: <1997Nov21.64212.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Does anyone out there have info on Carol Conti and is she on the net?  =
Would like to contact her regarding one of her lamp designs.  Appreciate =
any info any of you have.

jc

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From owner-glass Thu Nov 20 19:22:37 1997
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X-Path: matnet.com!rogert
From: "Tyler, Roger D." <rogert@matnet.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Sun catcher prices
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997 18:20:14 -0800
Message-ID: <1.5.4.32.19971121022014.006f2e34@primary.matnet.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi Jerri,
Glad to hear your frog came out so well.  Yes, I agree, it's hardest to do work for 'friends'.  I have done craft sales for 4 yrs now, in Alaska and So. Calif.  I usually figure roughly $2/piece, more or less(depending on the complication, trim,etc). That would be for suncatchers with from 2 to 24 or so pieces. Shops charge more, so consignment stuff can be priced higher.  I have never had trouble selling tons of suncatchers at these prices. For friends, I too, tend to chop off a few dollars. It'll be interesting to see what others say, remembering there is a difference in shop, craft fairs, and personal prices.

Rojean
Alaska


At 09:07 PM 11/18/97 -0500, you wrote:
>
>	I haven't been to a craft show in quite a while, and I'm a
>hobbiest with no plans of trying to turn this into an income right now,
>but can someone give me an idea of what to charge for a suncatcher.  I
>was really doing this as a favor for a friend (it's to be a gift for her
>mom).  It was that frog that everyone gave me so much helpful information
>on the inside curves.  It was 12 pieces, not the easiest darn light
>catcher, but it came out looking really good.  It seems like from what I
>remember seeing, people wouldn't pay more than $10 or $15 for something
>anyway, and that's why you see the really simple things out there.  Well,
>I was going to just ask for the cost of materials and barter some
>babysitting time (which is worth more to me than money), but my friend
>insisted on paying me $20.  Does this seem reasonable?  I don't think I
>like doing business with friends because I feel like I'm taking
>advantage, but I did put some time into this little frog.
>
>Obviously not a good businesswoman,
>
>Jerri
>----
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>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
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From owner-glass Fri Nov 21 01:57:26 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!LElsbury
From: LElsbury@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: <None>
Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 04:55:43 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov20.235543.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

You might want to look in coloring books, comic books, boxes from gargoyle
figurines(sic)., etc......  Goodluck!
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From owner-glass Fri Nov 21 03:38:54 1997
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X-Path: computer.net!alewis
From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@computer.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Site for Carol Conti
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@computer.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 06:45:27 +0000
Message-ID: <199711211138.GAA07372@ns.computer.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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> Does anyone out there have info on Carol Conti and is she on the net?  =
> Would like to contact her regarding one of her lamp designs.  Appreciate =
> any info any of you have.

Yes, she's the head of ASGLA (Associated Stained Glass Lamp Artists) 
and can be contacted at asgla@wa.net

Albert

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From owner-glass Fri Nov 21 03:39:29 1997
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X-Path: computer.net!alewis
From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@computer.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Temperature of Shop
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@computer.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 06:45:27 +0000
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> eye, it really does cut better.  Even if it is just 'in my head' I will
> continue, as I rarely get a 'bad break' if the glass is hot

Perfectly all right, Lee ... whatever works. <s>  Heck, I do 
superstitious things myself, even though doing them doesn't mean that 
I'm guaranteed the outcome I'm looking for.

Albert

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From owner-glass Fri Nov 21 03:49:09 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!LElsbury
From: LElsbury@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Sun catcher prices
Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 06:46:05 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov21.1465.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I think pricing items is the most difficult part of the stained glass
business.  If you overprice obviously people won't pay it, but if you
underprice you aren't being fair to yourself.  I have yet to find a "formula"
that works everytime.  I too would be interested in how other people price
things or what formula they use to determine prices.  I do think that areas
of the country, and possibly local areas, have an inpact on prices that will
sell items.   LElsbury@aol.com <Indpls., IN>
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From owner-glass Fri Nov 21 04:16:34 1997
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X-Path: jackel.demon.co.uk!mike
From: Mike Simpson <mike@jackel.demon.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Filigree for Miniature Stained Glass Houses
Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 10:55:31 +0000 (GMT)
Message-ID: <199711211055.KAA00317@jackel.demon.co.uk>
References: <<1997Nov20.191116.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Filigrees can be made in the same way that printed circuit boards are made
for electronic equipment. The procedure that I use for one-offs is as
follows:-

Use brass sheet of between 0.005 and 0.010 inch thickness, cover one side
with parcel tape or other waterproof tape and clean the uncovered side with
fine wire-wool or other abrasive. Draw the pattern of the filigree on the
cleaned surface with a resist pen - Decon Dalo from Tandy electronic shops
is good for this, I believe that Radio Shack in the USA is the same company.

Prepare an etching solution by disolving ferric chloride in water until no 
more will disolve and then dilute it with as much water again to give a
50 percent solution. Pour some of this into a suitable tray (Plastic or
glass) and drop the prepared brass into it for a few seconds, remove and
check that there is an even pink surface and that it is wetted throughout.
While it is still wet carefully put it upside down (parcel tape up) on the
surface of the liquid - is should float. It takes from 20 minutes to about
8 hours to etch away all of the brass that hasn't been coverd by the resist
ink.

Odd notes:-

Other waterproof pens seem to work poorly, seeming not only to let through 
the etching solution in places but also to contaminate the solution so that
etching is poor.

While ferric chloride is fairly innocuous on the scale of chemicals, the 
by-product of the etching contains a number of other metalic salts and is
quite nasty - handle with care and gloves!!

The reason for putting the brass upside-down on the surface is to let the
powdery precipitate - which I think is metalic iron - fall from the surface.
you can also put it the right way up in the bottom of the tray and agitate
it continuously. This is quicker, 10 mins to half an hour but needs to be
agitated all this time.

You can use the same method to etch brass part way through to make
solder-on name tags etc..

There are many improvements available to give better and quicker etching
including bubble tanks, photographic resists etc..


Mike Simpson 

> 
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> This is Dawn.  I have been on a stained glass hiatus for the last 5 month=
> s and just resubscribed to the group.  It's definitely good to "hear" fro=
> m everyone again.
> 
> I wanted to throw something out to the group for some suggestions.  I am =
> making some miniature houses/buildings, etc. and am currently looking at =
> purchasing the filigree refills for the "Deelightful Heirlooms" collectio=
> n.  My question is, "Is there a way I could make the filigree myself?"
> 
> Does anyone know what kind of metal, weight, etc. the filigree is made =
> of?
> Is it possible to buy sheets of this and cut out your own filigree?
> What would cut out the intricate shapes?
> 
> If anyone has any experience with the filigree for these miniatures I wou=
> ld definitely appreciate any advice you can give me.
> 
> Dawn
> In the Ozark Mountains of Missouri
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> 

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From owner-glass Fri Nov 21 05:50:46 1997
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X-Path: mail1.ciwemb.edu!jewell
From: "Connie Jewell" <jewell@mail1.ciwemb.edu>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: My location
Date: 21 Nov 1997 08:47:16 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov21.34716.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

                      RE>>My location                              11/21/97

   So looks like I'm not the only bungi in Baltimore. And as for the outer
banks, "anything further south sounds good to me this time of year.
Jewell

--------------------------------------
Date: 11/20/97 7:20 PM
To: Connie Jewell
From: glass@bungi.com
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X-Path: erols.com!jkeane
From: Hee Sun Stained Glass <jkeane@erols.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: My location
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997 19:02:34 -0500
Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.19971120190234.00697e54@pop.erols.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


Well since all are jumping in I figured I'd join in.
We're located just outside good old Baltimore, Maryland in Reisterstown.
Although the Outer Banks of North Carolina sure sounds good right about now.

Robert &  Jeanne 
Hee Sun Stained Glass 
"Bestow Pleasure"


jkeane@erols.com

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From owner-glass Fri Nov 21 06:02:53 1997
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From: "jcampbell" <jcampbell@mfi.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1"; X-MAPIextension=".TXT"
Subject: Re: Location
Date: Fri, 21 Nov 97 09:48:54 PST
Message-ID: <1997Nov21.174854.0>
References: <<1997Nov20.15253.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I am in the Ocala area.  Glad to see Floridians around.  Would be interes=
ted in the shows you will be at.  We hope some day to go to shows with =
our work.

jc

----------
>
> I am here in Sarasota, Florida, sometimes known as the 'Arts Capital' =
of
> Florida.  Weather is usually great, lots of flora and fauna.  My
> home/office/studio overlooks a small lake, and have set up my computer
> by the back window so I can look out at the lake when on the computer. =

> I owe a bunch of e-mail to folks here who welcomed me back after my
> move, and will get to them shortly (or longly as the case may be?) So =
is
> anyone else on bungi.com in driving distance to Sarasota?  (about 1 hou=
r
> south of Tampa, on the Gulf Coast)  Would love to meet and 'coffee
> chat'.  Elisabeth, owe you several msgs and I do others, but not yet
> unpacked.  I am interested in the Europe trips, and hope for a good
> winter show season so I can afford it.  Will e-mail everyone privately.
>
> Best Wishes to All,
>
> Lee Boe

>
> Di Baker wrote:
> >
> > Great idea to see where everyone is located. We might want to hold =
a get
> > together sometime?
> >
> > I live in Lincoln IL -- center of the state pretty much. The only tow=
n in
> > USA named after Abe before he became President. He used to lawyer in =
these
> > parts. Hence why my e-mail address is abelink.com <g>.
> >
> > On another list we have groups & try to meet yearly...such as Midwest=
ern
> > group. Anyone interested?
> >
> > Have a wonderful day!
> >
> > Di
> >
> > ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~*~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~*
> >                 _ |\_
> >                 \` ..\   Di Baker       <rbaker@abelink.com>
> >            __,.-" =3D__Y=3D  Kitties--Bogie Blue, Chanel Blue, Sarah,
> >    jgs   ."        )              Tornado, Cagney
> >    _    /   ,    \/\_    Wanna see how cute we are? Visit us at:
> >   ((____|    )_-\ \_-`   http://www.islandnet.com/~jbrooks/di1.htm
> >   `-----'`-----` `--`
> > ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~*~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~*
> >
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


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From owner-glass Fri Nov 21 06:10:23 1997
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X-Path: mail1.ciwemb.edu!jewell
From: "Connie Jewell" <jewell@mail1.ciwemb.edu>
To: "  bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Cutting Mirror Glass
Date: 21 Nov 1997 09:04:42 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov21.4442.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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     I have to cut some Mirror glass, does this glass need to be treated
differently than any other glass to prevent the coating on the back from being
damaged? I know you have to seal the back before soldering mirror. Any tips or
info. on dealing with mirror glass would be appreciated.
Thanks
Jewell
jewell@mail1.ciwemb.edu

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From owner-glass Fri Nov 21 06:39:05 1997
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X-Path: sgi.net!mindwarp
From: mindwarp <mindwarp@sgi.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Location
Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 09:26:23 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov21.42623.0>
References: <<m0xYi8r-0000vWC@daver.bungi.com>>
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Tperri@mssb.net wrote:
> 
> Hi All!
> 
> I am new to stained glass, the internet,  and to this group.  I have
> learned so much already from all your great input.  I am from Toronto,
> Canada. It's a wonderful place with excellent stained glass stores.


I am also rather new to the group.... more of a lurker and learner...
with an occasional post...

I'm from Pittsburgh, PA 

Sandi
;-)
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From owner-glass Fri Nov 21 07:01:18 1997
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X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Sun catcher prices
Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 09:58:47 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov21.45847.0>
References: <<1997Nov18.1674.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Jerri M Roey wrote:
> 
>         I haven't been to a craft show in quite a while, and I'm a
> hobbiest with no plans of trying to turn this into an income right now,
> but can someone give me an idea of what to charge for a suncatcher.  I
> was really doing this as a favor for a friend (it's to be a gift for her
> mom).  It was that frog that everyone gave me so much helpful information
> on the inside curves.  It was 12 pieces, not the easiest darn light
> catcher, but it came out looking really good.  It seems like from what I
> remember seeing, people wouldn't pay more than $10 or $15 for something
> anyway, and that's why you see the really simple things out there.  Well,
> I was going to just ask for the cost of materials and barter some
> babysitting time (which is worth more to me than money), but my friend
> insisted on paying me $20.  Does this seem reasonable?  I don't think I
> like doing business with friends because I feel like I'm taking
> advantage, but I did put some time into this little frog.
> 
> Obviously not a good businesswoman,
> 
> Jerri
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


that sounds ok to me. that's something i would have charged. my guess it
was probably easier to her to give you 20 bucks, instead of baby sitting
:). 

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
 New Pages Added: Over 40 new stained glass links, Tips: How To Set Up A
Shop, and My adventures with the Aliens.
----
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From owner-glass Fri Nov 21 07:09:01 1997
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Cutting Mirror Glass
Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 10:05:38 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov21.5538.0>
References: <<1997Nov21.4442.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Connie Jewell wrote:
> 
>      I have to cut some Mirror glass, does this glass need to be treated
> differently than any other glass to prevent the coating on the back from being
> damaged? I know you have to seal the back before soldering mirror. Any tips or
> info. on dealing with mirror glass would be appreciated.
> Thanks
> Jewell
> jewell@mail1.ciwemb.edu
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


i have a bunch of mirror tips on my page
http://www.geocities.com/paris/1141 in the tips section... but anyway,
mirror is cut like normal glass (on the glass side). you don't want to
grind it, otherwise it could blacken quicker. you can use mirror spray,
spray polyurethane could probably also work. nail polish i hear does a
good job, you nned to coat the edges and part of the back. but it's a
pain to apply neatly. and don't use too much flux. generally it's the
flux that does it, but i mainly think it's the grinding. 

my first box is over 15 years old, used a mirror, tons of flux, lots of
heat, and bad foiling. and there is no blackening. i made a mirror, and
within 2-4 months time, it had sections of a 1/2" deep, because i ground
it. 

and also watch for scratches on the back of the mirror. flux can creep
into these and destroy the silver as well.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
 New Pages Added: Over 40 new stained glass links, Tips: How To Set Up A
Shop, and My adventures with the Aliens.
----
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From owner-glass Fri Nov 21 07:09:43 1997
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Location
Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 10:06:33 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov21.5633.0>
References: <<1997Nov21.42623.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

mindwarp wrote:
> 
> Tperri@mssb.net wrote:
> >
> > Hi All!
> >
> > I am new to stained glass, the internet,  and to this group.  I have
> > learned so much already from all your great input.  I am from Toronto,
> > Canada. It's a wonderful place with excellent stained glass stores.
> 
> I am also rather new to the group.... more of a lurker and learner...
> with an occasional post...
> 
> I'm from Pittsburgh, PA
> 
> Sandi
> ;-)
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


although it says it on my bio, i'll say it here to. 

location: Westfield, New Jersey.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
 New Pages Added: Over 40 new stained glass links, Tips: How To Set Up A
Shop, and My adventures with the Aliens.
----
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From owner-glass Fri Nov 21 07:28:27 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!DMR74
From: DMR74@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Homosote board
Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 10:27:11 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov21.52711.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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In a message dated 97-11-21 04:12:02 EST, you write:

> Anyway, what it's used for in
>  the building trade is not important. 
Herb,
I just thought if I was more educated in what Homosote is I might be able to
get someone to help me locate it.
deb
SE  TX
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From owner-glass Fri Nov 21 07:30:27 1997
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From: DMR74@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: <None>Gargoyles
Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 10:29:48 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov21.52948.0>
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Betty,
I almost deleted that e-mail before opening because of the subject line.
 Please but something a little more discriptive in subject line for those of
us that sort junk mail out before opening anything. :)
deb
SE TX
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From owner-glass Fri Nov 21 07:39:39 1997
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X-Path: mfi.com!shaley
From: "Suzanne Haley"<shaley@mfi.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re[2]: Sun catcher prices 
Date: Fri, 21 Nov 97 07:35:55 -0800
Message-ID: <9711218801.AA880126574@sf-mail.mfi.com>
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     Since she is your friend and the $20 will cover the cost of the glass, 
     my suggestion is take it.  NEXT TIME--agree upfront.
     Suzanne Haley
     Location: Santa Rosa, CA (50 files north of San Francisco)


______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: Sun catcher prices 
Author:  <glass@bungi.com > at Internet
Date:    11/21/97 9:58 AM


Jerri M Roey wrote:
> 
>         I haven't been to a craft show in quite a while, and I'm a
> hobbiest with no plans of trying to turn this into an income right now, 
> but can someone give me an idea of what to charge for a suncatcher.  I
> was really doing this as a favor for a friend (it's to be a gift for her 
> mom).  It was that frog that everyone gave me so much helpful information 
> on the inside curves.  It was 12 pieces, not the easiest darn light
> catcher, but it came out looking really good.  It seems like from what I 
> remember seeing, people wouldn't pay more than $10 or $15 for something
> anyway, and that's why you see the really simple things out there.  Well, 
> I was going to just ask for the cost of materials and barter some
> babysitting time (which is worth more to me than money), but my friend 
> insisted on paying me $20.  Does this seem reasonable?  I don't think I 
> like doing business with friends because I feel like I'm taking
> advantage, but I did put some time into this little frog. 
> 
> Obviously not a good businesswoman, 
> 
> Jerri
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com 
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
     
     
that sounds ok to me. that's something i would have charged. my guess it 
was probably easier to her to give you 20 bucks, instead of baby sitting 
:). 
     
---Mike Savad
     
-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
 New Pages Added: Over 40 new stained glass links, Tips: How To Set Up A
Shop, and My adventures with the Aliens. 
----
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From owner-glass Fri Nov 21 07:59:19 1997
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X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: <None>Gargoyles
Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 10:56:50 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov21.55650.0>
References: <<1997Nov21.52948.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

DMR74@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Betty,
> I almost deleted that e-mail before opening because of the subject line.
>  Please but something a little more discriptive in subject line for those of
> us that sort junk mail out before opening anything. :)
> deb
> SE TX
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


i must have missed the message too. if you need gargoyle pictures, get
the toscano catalog. http://www.aaweb.com/toscano/ they may have
something.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
 New Pages Added: Over 40 new stained glass links, Tips: How To Set Up A
Shop, and My adventures with the Aliens.
----
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From owner-glass Fri Nov 21 08:19:51 1997
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X-Path: city-net.com!dany
From: "Daniela Birkelbach" <dany@city-net.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Re: Location
Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 11:11:53 -0500
Message-ID: <199711211611.LAA16855@dns.city-net.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi everyone!

I am a newbie as well (just about a year in Stained Glass) and live in
Pittsburgh, PA. (Bethel Park).    Born in Cologne, Germany.  I put a couple
of my projects onto my webpage below. Check it out!. 
http://www.city-net.com/~dany/pictures.html#sunflower

I am enjoying this list very much!  Thanks to everyone!

Dany


Daniela Birkelbach
Software Consultant
dany@city-net.com             http://www.city-net.com/~dany
***********************************************************************
"640K ought to be enough for anybody."
     -- Bill Gates, 1981


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From owner-glass Fri Nov 21 08:31:12 1997
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X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: "INTERNET:glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Sun catcher prices
Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 11:29:24 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov21.62924.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Some of the more complex suncatchers I make, like those
with more than 5 pieces, or ones with difficult-to-cut pieces,
I price at $25 - $30.  For custom suncatchers (like a rooster
I recently did), I charged $30.  I charge $30 for a turtle suncatcher
that has 15 pieces.  I charge $20 for an angel blowing a trumpet
suncatcher, and always run out of these.

These are all copper foiled pieces, fully finished including
patina on most of them.

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles, North Wales, PA
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From owner-glass Fri Nov 21 09:19:11 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!Margaret41
From: Margaret41@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Stained Glass Web Sites-HELP!
Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 12:18:02 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov21.7182.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

HELP!!! I tried to access web site:   http://www.tintorettoglass.com  to take
a look at a company in Venice Italy. Doesnt seem retrievable...could I pls.
get the address verified? desparate to see if I can arrange a tour, etc.
while in italy next week? can anyone help? Thanks much!
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From owner-glass Fri Nov 21 10:05:43 1997
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X-Path: juno.com!jroey
From: jroey@juno.com (Jerri M Roey)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Sun catcher prices
Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 12:58:44 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov21.75844.0>
References: <<1997Nov18.1674.0>>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


Thanks Mike.  Well, actually she wanted to babysit too, but since she
paid me, I don't feel like I can ask. Our kids play together frequently,
and we often help each other out, so she thought she'd be taking
advantage if she "paid me in babysitting".  I guess it's one of those
things where we both don't want the other to think one's taking
advantage. Funny how I had no trouble telling another neighbor, who's
more of an acquaintance than a friend, that I'd make her some garden
stones, but not for less than $40 each.  I think this other neighbor was
trying to get a "deal" and I didn't really care if she wanted them or
not.

Jerri
in the (usually) sunny south-----GA.




>
>that sounds ok to me. that's something i would have charged. my guess 
>it
>was probably easier to her to give you 20 bucks, instead of baby 
>sitting
>:). 
>
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From owner-glass Fri Nov 21 10:06:18 1997
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X-Path: juno.com!jroey
From: jroey@juno.com (Jerri M Roey)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Sun catcher prices 
Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 12:52:07 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov21.7527.0>
References: <<9711218801.AA880126574@sf-mail.mfi.com>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Good Point.  I'm sure I'll do that next time.  I just wasn't sure how
much time it would take, so I didn't want to do that.

Jerri



On Fri, 21 Nov 97 07:35:55 -0800 "Suzanne Haley"<shaley@mfi.com> writes:
>
>     Since she is your friend and the $20 will cover the cost of the 
>glass, 
>     my suggestion is take it.  NEXT TIME--agree upfront.
>     Suzanne Haley
>     Location: Santa Rosa, CA (50 files north of San Francisco)
>
>
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From owner-glass Fri Nov 21 10:36:16 1997
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X-Path: az.stratus.com!charlie
From: Charles Spitzer <charlie@az.stratus.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: Re: Sun catcher prices
Date: Fri, 21 Nov 97 11:34:40 -0700
Message-ID: <m0xYxuc-000LiCC@why.az.stratus.com>
References: <<1997Nov21.75844.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Customer Assistance Center, Stratus Computer, Inc.
Precedence: bulk

You wrote:
> Thanks Mike.  Well, actually she wanted to babysit too, but since she
> paid me, I don't feel like I can ask. Our kids play together frequently,
> and we often help each other out, so she thought she'd be taking
> advantage if she "paid me in babysitting".  I guess it's one of those
> things where we both don't want the other to think one's taking
> advantage. Funny how I had no trouble telling another neighbor, who's
> more of an acquaintance than a friend, that I'd make her some garden
> stones, but not for less than $40 each.  I think this other neighbor was
> trying to get a "deal" and I didn't really care if she wanted them or
> not.
>
> Jerri
> in the (usually) sunny south-----GA.
don't underestimate what your art can get you.

i've used trading glass with home contractors a lot; from electrical and  
plumbing, to remodeling my kitchen cabinets, to even an artist to paint a  
mural on the side of my house. you have to come up with an mutually agreeable  
trade though; you can trade off just hours with each paying the other's  
materials to the whole project.

uncle sam doesn't like this because, at least now, it can't easily get its'  
fingers into the agreement.

charlie
---
Charles Spitzer
charlie@az.stratus.com
Phoenix, AZ
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From owner-glass Fri Nov 21 10:55:06 1997
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X-Path: tillamook.k12.or.us!SteveM
From: Steve Matthies <SteveM@tillamook.k12.or.us>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: Re: Stained Glass Web Sites-HELP! -Reply
Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 10:53:30 -0800
Message-ID: <s475687f.052@tillamook.k12.or.us>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

The correct address is http://www.tintorettoglass.it    not.com
hope it works for you, as I can get through fine.

Steve Matthies
North Coast Glassworks
Tillamook, Oregon

>>> <Margaret41@aol.com> 11/21/97 09:18am >>>
HELP!!! I tried to access web site:   http://www.tintorettoglass.com  to
take
a look at a company in Venice Italy. Doesnt seem retrievable...could I pls.
get the address verified? desparate to see if I can arrange a tour, etc.
while in italy next week? can anyone help? Thanks much!
----
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From owner-glass Fri Nov 21 11:33:21 1997
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X-Path: ssimicro.com!xkellych
From: KC <xkellych@ssimicro.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re:Location
Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 12:32:07
Message-ID: <3.0.1.16.19971121123207.40176b42@smtp.ssimicro.com>
References: <<m0xYi8r-0000vWC@daver.bungi.com>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi, welcome to the list.

Are there any good stained glass supplies stores
in Markham/Scarborough area?  I will be going
down to Toronto in Dec. and hoping to get some supplies.

Thanks in advance.

Kelly
Yellowknife, NT
Canada

At 08:48 PM 11/20/97 EDT, you wrote:

>I am new to stained glass, the internet,  and to this group.  I have
>learned so much already from all your great input.  I am from Toronto,
>Canada. It's a wonderful place with excellent stained glass stores.
>

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From owner-glass Fri Nov 21 11:34:41 1997
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X-Path: stainedglass.co.uk!studio
From: "studio@stainedglass.co.uk" <studio@stainedglass.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Location
Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 19:28:14 +0000
Message-ID: <1997Nov21.192814.0>
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Precedence: bulk

Thought I'd join in - Sam and I are in the south of England in Bournemouth
(on the mainland west of the Isle of Wight which is the diamond shaped
island at about the middle of the south coast)
We've been in stained glass for about 19 years starting as a hobby for Sam
to get him out from under my feet. ;)
Now we have a retail shop for supplies with a studio out back where we do
commissioned work, mainly traditional leaded and stained glass and
sandblasted glass engraving, and we run courses in both leaded windows and
copper foil & solder techniques.  At present I am teaching 4 evenings at
local schools.
But I still try to find time to keep our web site updated and read all the
interesting (and the not so) messages from the group.
Elizabeth
Bournemouth Stained Glass
http://www.stainedglass.co.uk

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From owner-glass Fri Nov 21 11:34:43 1997
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From: "studio@stainedglass.co.uk" <studio@stainedglass.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Stained Glass Web Sites-HELP!
Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 19:28:06 +0000
Message-ID: <1997Nov21.19286.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

At 12:18 21/11/97 -0500, Margaret41 wrote:
>HELP!!! I tried to access web site:   http://www.tintorettoglass.com  to take
>a look at a company in Venice Italy. Doesnt seem retrievable...could I pls.
>get the address verified? 


Hi, Margaret - it's http://www.tintorettoglass.it (not com) - all non USA
sites have letter coding for each country unless they are using AOL or one
of the other US companies to access the net.
Good luck - wish we could join you.
Elizabeth
Bournemouth Stained Glass
http://www.stainedglass.co.uk

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From owner-glass Fri Nov 21 11:56:47 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!Margaret41
From: Margaret41@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Fwd: Stained Glass Web Sites-HELP!
Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 14:55:45 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov21.95545.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

In a message dated 97-11-21 14:30:39 EST, Margaret41@AOL.com writes:


Please ignore the attached mailitem i previously sent.  user error!!!! as we
say in the technology business. 
<< glass@bungi.com >>


---------------------
Forwarded message:
From:	Margaret41@AOL.com
Reply-to:	glass@bungi.com
To:	glass@bungi.com
Date: 97-11-21 14:30:39 EST

HELP!!! I tried to access web site:   http://www.tintorettoglass.com  to take
a look at a company in Venice Italy. Doesnt seem retrievable...could I pls.
get the address verified? desparate to see if I can arrange a tour, etc.
while in italy next week? can anyone help? Thanks much!
----
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----
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From owner-glass Fri Nov 21 12:26:57 1997
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X-Path: mail.fidnet.com!dawnm
From: Dawn <dawnm@mail.fidnet.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; X-MAPIextension=".TXT"
Subject: Re: Filigree for Miniature Stained Glass Houses
Date: Fri, 21 Nov 97 14:28:22 PST
Message-ID: <1997Nov21.222822.0>
References: <<199711211055.KAA00317@jackel.demon.co.uk>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Mike,

Thank you for your instructions on making filigrees.  They were excellent=
.  But, I have a few more questions because of my complete and total lack=
 of knowledge in this area:

Can this process be done using another type of metal????  From 
messages I have read on bungi in the past,  my understanding is that 
it's darn near impossible to patina brass with adequate results.  Would =
some sort of sheets or cooper or tin work?  Anyone have any ideas on wher=
e you would buy sheets?  Hardware stores???

Where do you purchase ferric chloride?  Photography supply store, hardwar=
e supply store, electronic supply warehouses?

Also, my local Radio Shack had no idea what a Decon Dalo resist pen is? =
 Is this something most electronic stores would carry?

Could I cover the front with the tape as well and just x-acto knife out =
the intricate detail that I would want dissolved away?

Like I said, I'm completely clueless on this and really appreciate the =
help.
Dawn

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From owner-glass Fri Nov 21 12:31:12 1997
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X-Path: nwu.edu!alansing
From: Amy Lansing <alansing@nwu.edu>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: location
Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 14:28:24 -0600
Message-ID: <3.0.2.32.19971121142824.00754a04@merle.acns.nwu.edu>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I'm new to the group, but have gotten a lot of great tips on how to make a
lamp base more stable for a stained glass shade and on where to locate
frames for stained glass room dividers.

I'm a displaced Texan currently living in Chicago (Displaced by 5 years in
Chicago, 2 years in New York, 1 year in South Africa & a year in Denmark).

I'm going to be moving in 6 months depending on where I get my residency
(AZ, FL, VA, NC, NY, TX, OK, or CA).  Soon, I'll be asking about stained
glass resources in whatever town/state I wind up in.

Thanks to everyone for such GREAT information!  Amy 


Amy Lansing
Deputy Project Coordinator
Psycho-Legal Studies
Northwestern University Medical School
710 N. Lake Shore Drive, Suite #900
Chicago, IL 60611

Office:  (312) 503-3500
FAX:     (312) 503-3535
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From owner-glass Fri Nov 21 12:31:59 1997
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From: Dawn <dawnm@mail.fidnet.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; X-MAPIextension=".TXT"
Subject: Re: Filigree for Miniature Stained Glass Houses
Date: Fri, 21 Nov 97 14:33:47 PST
Message-ID: <1997Nov21.223347.0>
References: <<1997Nov20.101041.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi Gloria,

Thank you for your suggestion to use the copper foil sheets.  I was
worried about if they would stick to the glass adequately over time, 
especially when they were dusted or cleaned.  Have you had any
problems with it wanting to come off?

I know that some time back on the group someone suggested putting
the glass piece on a damp washcloth when doing designs with a lot of
solder so that the glass won't heat  to the point of cracking.  I suppose
that is what I would need to do in this instance, wouldn't I?

Thanks for the help,
Dawn
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From owner-glass Fri Nov 21 14:13:19 1997
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X-Path: mssb.net!Tperri
From: Tperri@mssb.net
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: glass cutters
Date: 21 Nov 1997 17:16:02 EDT
Message-ID: <m0xZ1In-0000wHC@daver.bungi.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi all again!!

I'm new to stained glass and started using a regular glass cutter, which
is shaped like a pen. I find it difficult to hold and cut with. Someone
recommended a pistol grip glass cutter. I tried using it and it seemed
to be quite easy to use. I haven't purchased one yet and would like to
get some tips, advise or comments about the pistol grip cutter.


Thanking you in advance for your assistance.

Tiffanie

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From owner-glass Fri Nov 21 14:40:15 1997
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X-Path: city-net.com!dany
From: "Daniela Birkelbach" <dany@city-net.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Re: glass cutters
Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 17:33:26 -0500
Message-ID: <199711212232.RAA09162@dns.city-net.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I find the pistol grip cutter extremely easy to use.  I've tried the
regular cutters and had a hard time directing the cutter the way I wanted
it to go.  I can only say positive things about it.  The cutter oil
reservoir is nice too.

Daniela Birkelbach
Software Consultant
dany@city-net.com             http://www.city-net.com/~dany
***********************************************************************
"640K ought to be enough for anybody."
     -- Bill Gates, 1981

----------
> From: Tperri@mssb.net
> To: glass@bungi.com
> Subject: glass cutters
> Date: Friday, November 21, 1997 4:16 PM
> 
> Hi all again!!
> 
> I'm new to stained glass and started using a regular glass cutter, which
> is shaped like a pen. I find it difficult to hold and cut with. Someone
> recommended a pistol grip glass cutter. I tried using it and it seemed
> to be quite easy to use. I haven't purchased one yet and would like to
> get some tips, advise or comments about the pistol grip cutter.
> 
> 
> Thanking you in advance for your assistance.
> 
> Tiffanie
> 
> ----
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> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
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From owner-glass Fri Nov 21 15:39:34 1997
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X-Path: mssb.net!Tperri
From: Tperri@mssb.net
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re:Location
Date: 21 Nov 1997 18:12:30 EDT
Message-ID: <m0xZ2ed-000066C@daver.bungi.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

GL>Hi, welcome to the list.

GL>Are there any good stained glass supplies stores
GL>in Markham/Scarborough area?  I will be going
GL>down to Toronto in Dec. and hoping to get some supplies.

GL>Thanks in advance.

GL>Kelly
GL>Yellowknife, NT
GL>Canada

GL>At 08:48 PM 11/20/97 EDT, you wrote:

GL>>I am new to stained glass, the internet,  and to this group.  I have
GL>>learned so much already from all your great input.  I am from Toronto,
GL>>Canada. It's a wonderful place with excellent stained glass stores.
GL>>

GL>----
GL>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
GL>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
GL>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

Hi Kelly:

There is a stained glass store in Thornhill, Ontario called "Glowing
Panes". Great name, don't you think?? The address is 11 Glen Cameron
Road Unit 12. It is off Yonge Street, a few blocks north of Steeles
Avenue, if that means anything to you. The phone number there is
905-889-6858.

Another stained glass store I know of is in south end of Toronto
(Etobicoke), which is farther south than what you are asking for but it
is definitely a place to check out. I really love the place. It is
called Fantasy In Glass. The address is 703 The Queensway. The phone
number is 416-252-6868.

The staff at both places are great. You'll really enjoy your visits
there. I hope you have a great time in Toronto.

Teri

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From owner-glass Fri Nov 21 16:05:25 1997
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X-Path: juno.com!eldondo1
From: eldondo1@juno.com
To: Glass@bungi.com
Subject: Paraffin remover
Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 17:59:51 -0600
Message-ID: <1997Nov21.115951.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

We have been doing more full form lamps recently and have not found the
correct solution,chemical or whatever, to easily!!  clean the wax off the
inside of the lamp,I know this has been written about before and I had it
in my stained glass folders when I crashed . Thanks in advance....
Don DeVoto<eldondo1@juno.com> <eldondo@usroute66.net>
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From owner-glass Fri Nov 21 16:43:05 1997
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X-Path: compuserve.com!GreerStudios
From: "Michael J. Greer" <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: "INTERNET:glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Re: Temperature of Shop
Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 19:41:31 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov21.144131.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi Albert and Lee-

Michael and I had a long discussion
about the warmed glass issue and we
both agree that temperature doesn't
seem to affect how well glass cuts.  Nor
does Michael think the age of the glass
affects how difficult it is to cut ( remember
we had a thread about that some six
months ago) in his experience.  Having
said all that, we both agree, however,
that the person's state of mind and
beliefs about glass definitely affect how
well the glass will be cut and, consequently,
how it breaks!  So, go ahead, warm the
glass and make nice cuts and breaks.... if =

it works for you, do it. :-)

Best regards,

Dani Greer
Greer Gallery & Studios

Location:
603 W. Colorado Avenue
Colorado Springs, CO  80905

http://eme.usa.net/greerstudios/
----
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From owner-glass Fri Nov 21 16:43:09 1997
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X-Path: compuserve.com!GreerStudios
From: "Michael J. Greer" <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: "INTERNET:glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Sun catcher prices
Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 19:41:22 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov21.144122.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Jerri-

Don't feel one bit guilty -
$20 was probably a real
steal!

Best regards,

Dani Greer
----
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From owner-glass Fri Nov 21 16:43:49 1997
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X-Path: net-magic.net!tcn
From: tcn@net-magic.net (Boatwright, Walter)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Location
Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 19:43:29 -0800
Message-ID: <1997Nov21.114329.0>
References: <<1997Nov21.174854.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: The Glass Safari
Precedence: bulk

Hello... If you are ever back in the Fernandina Bch. area drop in and chat..
Walter and Rhonda

jcampbell wrote:

> I am in the Ocala area.  Glad to see Floridians around.  Would be interes=
> ted in the shows you will be at.  We hope some day to go to shows with =
> our work.
>
> jc
>
> ----------
> >
> > I am here in Sarasota, Florida, sometimes known as the 'Arts Capital' =
> of
> > Florida.  Weather is usually great, lots of flora and fauna.  My
> > home/office/studio overlooks a small lake, and have set up my computer
> > by the back window so I can look out at the lake when on the computer. =
>
> > I owe a bunch of e-mail to folks here who welcomed me back after my
> > move, and will get to them shortly (or longly as the case may be?) So =
> is
> > anyone else on bungi.com in driving distance to Sarasota?  (about 1 hou=
> r
> > south of Tampa, on the Gulf Coast)  Would love to meet and 'coffee
> > chat'.  Elisabeth, owe you several msgs and I do others, but not yet
> > unpacked.  I am interested in the Europe trips, and hope for a good
> > winter show season so I can afford it.  Will e-mail everyone privately.
> >
> > Best Wishes to All,
> >
> > Lee Boe
>
> >
> > Di Baker wrote:
> > >
> > > Great idea to see where everyone is located. We might want to hold =
> a get
> > > together sometime?
> > >
> > > I live in Lincoln IL -- center of the state pretty much. The only tow=
> n in
> > > USA named after Abe before he became President. He used to lawyer in =
> these
> > > parts. Hence why my e-mail address is abelink.com <g>.
> > >
> > > On another list we have groups & try to meet yearly...such as Midwest=
> ern
> > > group. Anyone interested?
> > >
> > > Have a wonderful day!
> > >
> > > Di
> > >
> > > ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~*~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~*
> > >                 _ |\_
> > >                 \` ..\   Di Baker       <rbaker@abelink.com>
> > >            __,.-" =3D__Y=3D  Kitties--Bogie Blue, Chanel Blue, Sarah,
> > >    jgs   ."        )              Tornado, Cagney
> > >    _    /   ,    \/\_    Wanna see how cute we are? Visit us at:
> > >   ((____|    )_-\ \_-`   http://www.islandnet.com/~jbrooks/di1.htm
> > >   `-----'`-----` `--`
> > > ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~*~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~*
> > >
> > > ----
> > > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass



----
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From owner-glass Fri Nov 21 17:35:21 1997
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X-Path: worldnet.att.net!elsamayer
From: elsa mayer <elsamayer@worldnet.att.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Location
Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 21:23:30 -0800
Message-ID: <1997Nov21.132330.0>
References: <<m0xZ2ed-000066C@daver.bungi.com>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Tperri@mssb.net wrote:
> 
> GL>Hi, welcome to the list.
> 
> GL>Are there any good stained glass supplies stores
> GL>in Markham/Scarborough area?  I will be going
> GL>down to Toronto in Dec. and hoping to get some supplies.
> 
> GL>Thanks in advance.
> 
> GL>Kelly
> GL>Yellowknife, NT
> GL>Canada
> 
> GL>At 08:48 PM 11/20/97 EDT, you wrote:
> 
> GL>>I am new to stained glass, the internet,  and to this group.  I have
> GL>>learned so much already from all your great input.  I am from Toronto,
> GL>>Canada. It's a wonderful place with excellent stained glass stores.
> GL>>
> 
> GL>----
> GL>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> GL>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> GL>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> 
> Hi Kelly:
> 
> There is a stained glass store in Thornhill, Ontario called "Glowing
> Panes". Great name, don't you think?? The address is 11 Glen Cameron
> Road Unit 12. It is off Yonge Street, a few blocks north of Steeles
> Avenue, if that means anything to you. The phone number there is
> 905-889-6858.
> 
> Another stained glass store I know of is in south end of Toronto
> (Etobicoke), which is farther south than what you are asking for but it
> is definitely a place to check out. I really love the place. It is
> called Fantasy In Glass. The address is 703 The Queensway. The phone
> number is 416-252-6868.
> 
> The staff at both places are great. You'll really enjoy your visits
> there. I hope you have a great time in Toronto.
> 
> Teri
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
HELLO from Asheville, NC. up in the mountains.  A great place to live
and even better for craftspeople.
----
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From owner-glass Fri Nov 21 18:30:20 1997
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	for rglass-42; Fri, 21 Nov 1997 18:29:22 -0800 (PST)
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X-Path: gjr
From: gjr@bungi.com (Glenna Rand)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Glass Expo
Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 18:29:14 PST
Message-ID: <m0xZ5Jr-00004ZC@daver.bungi.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi everyone,

I just got my catalogue for the Glass Craft Expo '98 in Las Vegas
March 12-15.  Anyone going?  I can't miss this this time.  Last year
I waited for the show to come to San Francisco and it got cancelled.
Unfortunately it was after the Vegas show and I was out of luck.
I really want to take a class on reinforcing.
See you there!


-- 
Glenna Rand
gjr@bungi.com
----
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From owner-glass Fri Nov 21 18:44:47 1997
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X-Path: inspace.net!herba
From: "Herb Adler" <herba@inspace.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: My Location
Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 21:40:38 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov21.164038.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Okay, there seems to be a lot of Floridians on this list so I'll add Orlando
to the group.
-----Original Message-----
From: M.-J. Taylor <athena@netrox.net>
To: glass@bungi.com <glass@bungi.com>
Date: Thursday, November 20, 1997 5:41 PM
Subject: Re: My Location


>Well, I'm happy as a clam down here in the Florida Keys ...
>
>that's why they say: location, location, location!
>
>;D
>
>M.-J.
>
>At 08:06 AM 11/20/97 -0500, you wrote:
>>Hello All,
>>This is Sally Lamb. I'm in Holland, Michigan. My E-mail address is my
place
>>of employment which is Zeeland Public Schools in Zeeland, MI where I'm the
>>Admin. Asst. to the Superintendent (but I'd rather be home doing glass
>>work).
>>
>>Sal
>>----
>>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>>
>>
>
>
>****What I write is just what *I* think. Take what *you* like and leave the
>rest.****
>
>M.-J. Taylor
><athena@bridge.net>
>
>Although we cannot change the direction of the wind,
>              we can adjust our sails. (Unknown)
>
>
>                                              |\                ( )
> _____________________________________________|_\_____________________
>                                              -----             -_-_
>                                                               -- - -
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>

----
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From owner-glass Fri Nov 21 18:54:31 1997
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X-Path: juno.com!jroey
From: jroey@juno.com (Jerri M Roey)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Banding.......  (Take 2)
Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 21:51:01 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov21.16511.0>
References: <<3.0.1.32.19971120172658.006f152c@pop.netrox.net>>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


Hi all,

	I'm sending this message a second time, so if I'm redundant,
please forgive me.  When I sent the message about suncather prices, it
took two days to show up.  At first I thought it must have showed and I
just deleted my own message like usual, so maybe no one had a comment. 
Didn't think I was really being snubbed. ;)

	Anyway, what I wanted to ask was about the pattern of the Poppy
that was in the Sept. SGN.  I really like it and was thinking about
making it, but wanted to make it much bigger.  This is hard to describe,
but I'm sure a lot of you saw it.  The pattern is like a rectangle panel
with one corner of the background left out.  I was wondering what to put
around the panel, since I don't really like copper foil panels without
some sort of frame, zinc, wood whatever.  Would twisting the lead came,
as Charles described, and soldering that around it, but not on the open
part, seem like a good idea?  Any other ideas?  

Jerri
----
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From owner-glass Fri Nov 21 19:12:59 1997
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X-Path: shell.mpsi.net!terry-l
From: Terry <terry-l@shell.mpsi.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Solder/Flux cleanup
Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 21:16:54 -0800
Message-ID: <3.0.3.32.19971121211654.006a549c@mail.mpsi.net>
References: <<1997Nov21.174854.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi there,  I was woundering if anyone could tell me a good way to clean the
flux or brownish/black material that is left on the solder  after you have
soldered glass together... I am not sure why it is so hard to get off - I
have used Mineral Spirits and it comes off really easy - however it seems
to go in under the edges of the soldered foil, and then the black glue
kinda comes off the foil, and then everything REALLY seems to get sticky...
Any ideas?  Could this be junky solder that is causing the problems?  I
have no idea - the solder is 60/40 but I did not buy it at a glass
supplier, but had it laying around from way back before I got into the
glass stuff so I thought I would use it up... Any comments/suggestions
would be GREATLY appreciated.  Thanks in advance :)

							Terry,
----
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From owner-glass Fri Nov 21 20:20:07 1997
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X-Path: sagelink.net!pkelly
From: patkelly <pkelly@sagelink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: <None>
Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 22:15:39 -0800
Message-ID: <1997Nov21.141539.0>
References: <<29F67234015D3179@-SMF->>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

CorelDraw7 has Medevial Designs that can be modified in numerous ways.
If you like I will send them to you in any graphic format you need.

Roses & Rainbows to all

Pat

BETTY HALL wrote:

> I'm looking for a pattern with Gargoyles - any suggestions?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Betty
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass



----
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From owner-glass Fri Nov 21 21:34:31 1997
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X-Path: prodigy.com!YWAH36A
From: YWAH36A@prodigy.com ( BOB   DUCHESNEAU)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Solder/Flux cleanup
Date: Sat, 22 Nov 1997 00:24:06, -0500
Message-ID: <199711220524.AAA08636@mime4.prodigy.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Terry wrote:
Hi there,  I was woundering if anyone could tell me a good way to 
clean the
flux or brownish/black material that is left on the solder  after you 
have
soldered glass together... I am not sure why it is so hard to get off 
- I
have used Mineral Spirits and it comes off really easy - however it 
seems
to go in under the edges of the soldered foil, and then the black 
glue
kinda comes off the foil, and then everything REALLY seems to get 
sticky...
Any ideas?  Could this be junky solder that is causing the problems?  
I
have no idea - the solder is 60/40 but I did not buy it at a glass
supplier, but had it laying around from way back before I got into 
the
glass stuff so I thought I would use it up... Any 
comments/suggestions
would be GREATLY appreciated.  Thanks in advance :) Terry

Bob writes,
  The cleanup problems you describe seem like they may be caused by 
the flux. The easy answer is to buy a pound of solder & some flux 
from a stained glass source & try a new project. The flux used in 
stained glass work is acid based & not rosin based as is commanly 
used for home electrical repairs. Just buying from a stained glass 
source should provide the right products.
  Using mineral spirits to clean the project does not seem to be a 
good idea. You most likely will dissolve the adhesive on the foil as 
well as leave a residue that will interfear with patina. 
  There are lots of ways to clean a project. One way is to use dish 
washing detergent, hot water & a synthetic scrub pad (not to be used 
for other purposes). After scrubbing under running water the project 
may be dried by buffing with paper towels. Clean up should take only 
a couple of minutes for a small project. A couple of more keys to 
success are to clean up immediately after soldering & patina 
immediately thereafter.
Stay clean, Bob

____
Bob Duchesneau (You've got to be smarter than the gear you're working 
with.) Mountain Meadow Stained Glass, 26746 Mountain Meadow Road, 
Escondido, CA 92026 Voice (760) 749-3966 FAX (760) 749-6427
----
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From owner-glass Fri Nov 21 21:42:50 1997
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X-Path: sagelink.net!pkelly
From: patkelly <pkelly@sagelink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: <None>
Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 22:15:39 -0800
Message-ID: <1997Nov21.141539.0>
References: <<29F67234015D3179@-SMF->>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

CorelDraw7 has Medevial Designs that can be modified in numerous ways.
If you like I will send them to you in any graphic format you need.

Roses & Rainbows to all

Pat

BETTY HALL wrote:

> I'm looking for a pattern with Gargoyles - any suggestions?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Betty
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass



----
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From owner-glass Fri Nov 21 22:16:23 1997
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X-Path: tir.com!jazzykid
From: "jazzykid" <jazzykid@tir.com>
To: "bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: Dani Greer is a great philospher
Date: Sat, 22 Nov 1997 01:16:00 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov21.20160.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_003D_01BCF6E4.31B122C0
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

"...the person's state of mind and
beliefs about glass definitely affect how
well the glass will be cut and, consequently,
how it breaks! ..."  IMHO
Thanks Dani
                                    Jill Medlyn   =20
Lake Orion Michigan



------=_NextPart_000_003D_01BCF6E4.31B122C0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.71.2016.0"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&quot;...<FONT size=3D5>the person's =
state of mind=20
and<BR>beliefs about glass definitely affect how<BR>well the glass will =
be cut=20
and, consequently,<BR>how it breaks! ...&quot;&nbsp;=20
IMHO</FONT></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2><FONT size=3D5></FONT></FONT><FONT =
size=3D5>Thanks=20
Dani</FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D5></FONT><FONT color=3D#000000=20
size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbs=
p;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp=
;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=
=20
<FONT size=3D5>Jill Medlyn&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; </FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2><FONT size=3D5></FONT></FONT><FONT =
size=3D5>Lake=20
Orion Michigan</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_003D_01BCF6E4.31B122C0--

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X-Path: tir.com!jazzykid
From: "jazzykid" <jazzykid@tir.com>
To: "bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: Dani Greer is a Great philospher
Date: Sat, 22 Nov 1997 02:07:41 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov21.21741.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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Sorry folks,
    I copy and pasted and it didn't take...IMHO  "...the person's state =
of mind and beliefs about glass definitely affect how well the glass =
will cut and, consequently how it breaks!! ..."  applaud applaud =
applaud...Thank you Dani Greer
        Jill Medlyn
Rochester Michigan=20



------=_NextPart_000_0087_01BCF6EB.6A283A60
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.71.2016.0"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Sorry folks,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; I copy and pasted =
and it=20
didn't take...IMHO&nbsp; &quot;...the person's state of mind and beliefs =
about=20
glass definitely affect how well the glass will cut and, consequently =
how it=20
breaks!! ...&quot;&nbsp; applaud applaud applaud...Thank you Dani=20
Greer</FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 =
size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jill=20
Medlyn</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Rochester =
Michigan&nbsp;</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0087_01BCF6EB.6A283A60--

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From owner-glass Sat Nov 22 04:14:47 1997
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From: "studio@stainedglass.co.uk" <studio@stainedglass.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Temperature of Shop
Date: Sat, 22 Nov 1997 12:10:11 +0000
Message-ID: <1997Nov22.121011.0>
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At 19:41 21/11/97 -0500, Dani Greer wrote:
> the person's state of mind and
>beliefs about glass definitely affect how
>well the glass will be cut and, consequently,
>how it breaks!  So, go ahead, warm the
>glass and make nice cuts and breaks.... if
>it works for you, do it. :-)

We agree, Sam and I always tell our students that glass cutting is 10
percent skill and 90 percent courage.
Elizabeth
Bournemouth Stained Glass
http://www.stainedglass.co.uk

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From owner-glass Sat Nov 22 06:15:30 1997
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From: Mike Barr <flowers@iamerica.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: glass cutters
Date: Sat, 22 Nov 1997 07:28:58 -0600
Message-ID: <1997Nov22.12858.0>
References: <<m0xZ1In-0000wHC@daver.bungi.com>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Flowers Etc
Precedence: bulk

Someone
recommended a pistol grip glass cutter. I tried using it and it seemed
to be quite easy to use. I haven't purchased one yet and would like to
get some tips, advise or comments about the pistol grip cutter

Tiffanie, find a good shop in your area where you can try the different 
cutters out. My favorite is the thomas grip, to me it is easier to guide 
and takes very little pressure, but I'm in the minority on that. 
Probably if you look, many glass shops have tools available for 
customers to try out. 
	Mike Barr
	Metairie, La.


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From owner-glass Sat Nov 22 06:34:14 1997
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From: Zor Prime <hupp@citynet.net>
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Subject: 40/60 solder
Date: Sat, 22 Nov 1997 10:28:50 -0800
Message-ID: <1997Nov22.22850.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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Precedence: bulk

Hi Everyone,

I'm wondering if anyone has ever used 40/60 solder on a project. I run a
radiator repair shop and carry my projects back and forth from home to
the shop. I was at the shop working on a large lampshade and ran out of
60/40 solder so I helped myself to my radiator solder and it seemed to
work just fine. The melting temperature was a little higher, but my end
product looks just as good as anything else I've done. My only worry is
whether this will be strong enough to hold up over time. I don't know
enough about metals in general to be sure. Any suggestions?

If this turns out to be ok, it's a lot cheaper for me to buy than 60/40
or even 50/50. You can get a 25lb. spool for $55 from radiator
suppliers.

Thanks in advance for any input.

Kathy
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From owner-glass Sat Nov 22 07:44:08 1997
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X-Path: mwt.net!alcamoz
From: "len alcamo" <alcamoz@mwt.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: Temperature of Shop
Date: Sat, 22 Nov 1997 09:52:52 -0600
Message-ID: <199711221541.JAA17714@westbyserver.westby.mwt.net>
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-----Original Message-----
From: Michael J. Greer <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: INTERNET:glass@bungi.com <glass@bungi.com>
Date: Friday, November 21, 1997 6:59 PM
Subject: Re: Temperature of Shop


>Hi Albert and Lee-
>
>Michael and I had a long discussion
>about the warmed glass issue and we
>both agree that temperature doesn't
>seem to affect how well glass cuts.

I recall the warm glass thread.... It's always been my opinion that the temp
has no effect  although the majority  at the time  agreed that it did

  Nor
>does Michael think the age of the glass
>affects how difficult it is to cut ( remember
>we had a thread about that some six
>months ago) in his experience.

I agree here also....an exception being old glass that has been exposed to
the elements for any  lenght of time..... it can be very uncooperative....
in my experience

  Having
>said all that, we both agree, however,
>that the person's state of mind and
>beliefs about glass definitely affect how
>well the glass will be cut and, consequently,
>how it breaks!

No doubt about it  ..... I have always had *good days* and *bad days*
cutting glass.  What ever was behind it was very elusive because I could
rarely turn a *bad day* into a *good day*  usually wrote it off to cosmic
alignment or something like that   :-)


Len


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From owner-glass Sat Nov 22 10:19:49 1997
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X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: "INTERNET:glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Banding.......  (Take 2)
Date: Sat, 22 Nov 1997 13:13:14 -0500
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Precedence: bulk

I have that poppy pattern with the one corner left un-framed.
I would frame the three "square" sides with zinc U channel
and then leave the forth side un-framed, or framed using
18 gauge copper wire which is tucked into the zinc channel.

This should give you the strength and finished look you seek.
Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles, North Wales, PA
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From owner-glass Sat Nov 22 11:08:29 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!DMR74
From: DMR74@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Cutting surface
Date: Sat, 22 Nov 1997 14:07:33 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov22.9733.0>
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Robert & Jeanne,
thank you thankyou for the phone # I guess maybe the biggest problem is that
everyone spells it wrong.  i did a web search ...HOMOSOTE and came up with
alot of  sites but no real useful info. (and in all of them they spelt it
wrong) I'll make the phone call on Monday!!!
deb
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From owner-glass Sat Nov 22 11:09:04 1997
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From: DMR74@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Homosote board
Date: Sat, 22 Nov 1997 14:07:33 -0500 (EST)
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Jerri,  you lucky dog, I can't even get them at homedepot to acknowledge that
this even exists.  I did go to the Home depot web site and sent an e-mail to
them
deb
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From owner-glass Sat Nov 22 11:33:24 1997
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X-Path: io.com!dsj
From: dsj@io.com (Diane Jacobs)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Cutting surface
Date: Sat, 22 Nov 1997 13:39:49 -0600
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Not a northern thing -- I live in Austin, Texas, and a glass shop here
sells homosote (albeit already bonded to a sheet of doubleply). so they've
gotta be buying it locally.  e-mail  me privately if you want more info.



At 10:19 AM 11/20/97, David Cogen wrote:>> been to Home Depot in TX and
they don't even know what it is there
>> (Homosote).  They just opened in our area this month maybe I will find
>> someone who knows something soon.
>
>I wonder if it's a northern thing?
>
>
>I've been quiet in the discussion on cutting surfaces. Here's what I do:
>
>I use homosote underneath. This is soft, so it protects the cutter if I slip
>off the glass. On top of the homosote I spread several layers of
>newspaper. Every few cuts I pick up the front edge of the newspaper, causing
>most of the shards to fall towards the back. Some do remain, being slightly
>embedded in the newspaper. So after a while I simply discard the top layer of
>newspaper, exposing a clean sheet underneath.
>
>I don't like the brushing idea, feeling that this might cause too much
>airborne glass dust. Of course it could be misted with a water sprayer to keep
>the dust down though.
>
>I don't claim that's the best solution, but it seems to work OK for me.
>
>
>On my earlier claim that homosote would last a lifetime: please permit me to
>retract that hastily made statement. I doubt that it would. But I do feel that
>it is a reasonable, fairly inexpensive solution.
>
>
>-- David
>----
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From owner-glass Sat Nov 22 12:00:37 1997
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From: "Michael J. Greer" <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: "INTERNET:glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Dani Greer is a Great philospher
Date: Sat, 22 Nov 1997 14:59:07 -0500
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Okay, Jill, let me respond
in true Albert style:

"Aw, shucks, 'twas nuthin' <blush>"  !!

Just proves the statement "even a fool =

can teach a wise thing".

;-D

Best regards,

Dani Greer
Greer Gallery & Studios
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From owner-glass Sat Nov 22 12:01:29 1997
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Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: 40/60 solder
Date: Sat, 22 Nov 1997 14:59:00 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov22.9590.0>
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Kathy-

We'd sure be interested in
knowing if 40/60 is okay to use-
Two bucks a pound is pretty
darn cheap!  Seems like it
would be okay for copper
foil... maybe a problem for
lead because of the melting
point.  Some advice from
the experts would be appreciated.

Best regards,

Dani Greer
Greer Gallery & Studios
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From owner-glass Sat Nov 22 12:01:48 1997
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From: "Michael J. Greer" <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: All <GLASS@BUNGI.COM>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Glass site update
Date: Sat, 22 Nov 1997 14:58:45 -0500
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Hi All-

Just got a note from pj friend who
informs me that our glass site has
some new pictures on it - guess our
web meister has been at work!

Haven't seen it yet myself, but
check it out and let me know
what you think!

http://eme.usa.net/greerstudios/

Best regards,

Dani Greer
Greer Gallery & Studios
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From owner-glass Sat Nov 22 12:06:05 1997
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From: artglass@water.waterw.com (pj friend)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Temperature of Shop
Date: Sat, 22 Nov 1997 15:05:26 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <199711222005.PAA21423@water.waterw.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

len wrote,

>No doubt about it  ..... I have always had *good days* and *bad days*
>cutting glass.  What ever was behind it was very elusive because I could
>rarely turn a *bad day* into a *good day*  usually wrote it off to cosmic
>alignment or something like that   :-)
>
That retrograde will get you everytime!!!!!

my best,
pj

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From owner-glass Sat Nov 22 12:25:09 1997
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From: Gilgore Trout <shyguy@vdot.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Location
Date: Sat, 22 Nov 1997 15:10:42 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov22.101042.0>
References: <<1997Nov21.132330.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Dresden Slaughter House
Precedence: bulk

Are you up by Penland? I was just on vacation in NC this summer - great area,
not just for crafts, great BBQ too!

elsa mayer wrote:

> HELLO from Asheville, NC. up in the mountains.  A great place to live
> and even better for craftspeople.



--
'Every (person) must decide whether to walk in the light of creative
altruism or the darkness of selfishness. This is the judgement. Life's
most persistent and urgent question is "What are you doing for
others?' "Rev. Dr. Martin Luther King Jr.


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From owner-glass Sat Nov 22 12:39:45 1997
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From: "jazzykid" <jazzykid@tir.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: 40/60 solder
Date: Sat, 22 Nov 1997 15:39:59 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov22.103959.0>
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Precedence: bulk

Kathy,
    My stained glass instructor taught using radiator soldier from the
beginning.  I found that it was a dirtier soldier, but if you use a little
flux and new foil and clean your "object de art" right away..using Mike's
"special cleaning formula" (Joy dishsoap.. etc. ) and patina and/or polish
Right away.  It works real well.
            Jill
-----Original Message-----
From: Zor Prime <hupp@citynet.net>
To: glass@bungi.com <glass@bungi.com>
Date: Saturday, November 22, 1997 9:48 AM
Subject: 40/60 solder


>Hi Everyone,
>
>I'm wondering if anyone has ever used 40/60 solder on a project. I run a
>radiator repair shop and carry my projects back and forth from home to
>the shop. I was at the shop working on a large lampshade and ran out of
>60/40 solder so I helped myself to my radiator solder and it seemed to
>work just fine. The melting temperature was a little higher, but my end
>product looks just as good as anything else I've done. My only worry is
>whether this will be strong enough to hold up over time. I don't know
>enough about metals in general to be sure. Any suggestions?
>
>If this turns out to be ok, it's a lot cheaper for me to buy than 60/40
>or even 50/50. You can get a 25lb. spool for $55 from radiator
>suppliers.
>
>Thanks in advance for any input.
>
>Kathy
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>

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To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Using a light table for color
Date: Sat, 22 Nov 1997 15:49:05 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov22.10495.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Just received a catalog from Fidelity  graphic products  1-800-326-7555 and
have alot of light boxes, various sizes and prices.
-----Original Message-----
From: Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: INTERNET:glass@bungi.com <glass@bungi.com>
Date: Thursday, November 20, 1997 8:58 AM
Subject: Using a light table for color


>I use my light table primarily for color selection.
>When my clients come in to select the glass to go
>into the pattern (if I am not going out to the site for
>glass selection), then the light table is invaluable.
>This way we can lay the glass samples out together
>on the light table, and see what the glass will look
>like with sunlight coming through.  So I can do color
>selection and consultation safely (no holding up of
>sheets of glass overhead) and after the sun has
>gone down.  The clients like it.
>
>Also, I have a very large light table in the middle
>of my studio.  I will frequently leave a completed
>piece laying on it, with the lights turned on, while I am
>working on something else.  It's a very effective
>marketing tool.  The light shining through the stained
>glass really draws in a customer's attention.
>
>Christie A. Wood
>Art Glass Ensembles
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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>

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From owner-glass Sat Nov 22 13:27:13 1997
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From: Beveler4@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Banding...
Date: Sat, 22 Nov 1997 16:26:36 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov22.112636.0>
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I have never used the copper on a piece that was a square or rectangle, so I
didn't have to worry about the corners. I've always used it on unusual shaped
pieces. I have used 1/2 in with no problem and I've even used 3/4 in, this
was used on a very large unusual shaped piece for a client and was hung on a
stand in front of a stationary window.Beveler4@aol.com
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From owner-glass Sat Nov 22 14:18:54 1997
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From: cmspecialty.com@isd.net
To: cmspecialty.com@isd.net
Subject: GIFTS AND MORE
Date: Sun, 23 Nov 1997 16:16:25 -0600
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GRAND OPENING!!!!!!

Our online store is full of gift ideas and much more, there is somethig for everyone.

To reach us on line see our web site at http://www.cmspecialty.com

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From owner-glass Sat Nov 22 15:24:53 1997
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From: "Herb Adler" <herba@inspace.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Cutting surface
Date: Sat, 22 Nov 1997 18:17:11 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov22.131711.0>
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Hi, the correct spelling is Homasote and their web page is
http://www.pakline.com/about/index.html
-----Original Message-----
From: DMR74@aol.com <DMR74@aol.com>
To: glass@bungi.com <glass@bungi.com>
Date: Saturday, November 22, 1997 2:16 PM
Subject: Re: Cutting surface


>Robert & Jeanne,
>thank you thankyou for the phone # I guess maybe the biggest problem is
that
>everyone spells it wrong.  i did a web search ...HOMOSOTE and came up with
>alot of  sites but no real useful info. (and in all of them they spelt it
>wrong) I'll make the phone call on Monday!!!
>deb
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From owner-glass Sat Nov 22 15:35:19 1997
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From: "Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
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Subject: Banding.......  (Take 2)
Date: Sat, 22 Nov 1997 13:13:14 -0500
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I have that poppy pattern with the one corner left un-framed.
I would frame the three "square" sides with zinc U channel
and then leave the forth side un-framed, or framed using
18 gauge copper wire which is tucked into the zinc channel.

This should give you the strength and finished look you seek.
Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles, North Wales, PA
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From owner-glass Sat Nov 22 16:04:34 1997
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X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Solder/Flux cleanup
Date: Sat, 22 Nov 1997 19:02:01 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov22.1421.0>
References: <<3.0.3.32.19971121211654.006a549c@mail.mpsi.net>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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Terry wrote:
> 
> Hi there,  I was woundering if anyone could tell me a good way to clean the
> flux or brownish/black material that is left on the solder  after you have
> soldered glass together... I am not sure why it is so hard to get off - I
> have used Mineral Spirits and it comes off really easy - however it seems
> to go in under the edges of the soldered foil, and then the black glue
> kinda comes off the foil, and then everything REALLY seems to get sticky...
> Any ideas?  Could this be junky solder that is causing the problems?  I
> have no idea - the solder is 60/40 but I did not buy it at a glass
> supplier, but had it laying around from way back before I got into the
> glass stuff so I thought I would use it up... Any comments/suggestions
> would be GREATLY appreciated.  Thanks in advance :)
> 
>                                                         Terry,
> ----
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the solder is mainly to blame. the solder you get at a stained glass
store is virgin solder. cheap solder, re-melts old crusty solder, and
the slag that should have been skimmed was'nt. so when you melt it in,
the slag is now embedded in the solder. after you solder the bead should
be a shiney silver. 

the sticky stuff is the glue coming off the foil. which usually means
your iron is to hot, your moving to slow, or your re-melting the solder
more than it need to be.

---Mike Savad

-- 
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 New Pages Added: Over 40 new stained glass links, Tips: How To Set Up A
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From owner-glass Sat Nov 22 16:14:00 1997
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Homosote board
Date: Sat, 22 Nov 1997 19:11:34 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov22.141134.0>
References: <<1997Nov22.9733.0>>
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DMR74@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Jerri,  you lucky dog, I can't even get them at homedepot to acknowledge that
> this even exists.  I did go to the Home depot web site and sent an e-mail to
> them
> deb
> ----
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i would ask a couple of people. the guy you asked may have been a
doofus.

---Mike Savad

-- 
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 New Pages Added: Over 40 new stained glass links, Tips: How To Set Up A
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From owner-glass Sat Nov 22 16:18:12 1997
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: 40/60 solder
Date: Sat, 22 Nov 1997 19:09:12 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov22.14912.0>
References: <<1997Nov22.22850.0>>
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Zor Prime wrote:
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> I'm wondering if anyone has ever used 40/60 solder on a project. I run a
> radiator repair shop and carry my projects back and forth from home to
> the shop. I was at the shop working on a large lampshade and ran out of
> 60/40 solder so I helped myself to my radiator solder and it seemed to
> work just fine. The melting temperature was a little higher, but my end
> product looks just as good as anything else I've done. My only worry is
> whether this will be strong enough to hold up over time. I don't know
> enough about metals in general to be sure. Any suggestions?
> 
> If this turns out to be ok, it's a lot cheaper for me to buy than 60/40
> or even 50/50. You can get a 25lb. spool for $55 from radiator
> suppliers.
> 
> Thanks in advance for any input.
> 
> Kathy
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


chances are, it will melt ok, but it may not take a patina. and it may
not be as shiny. i would recommend using it on the back of panels,
lamps, and maybe for a filler. 

i've always wanted to get those huge rolls of solder for myself. but as
far as i know they don't sell those large rolls of 50/50 since plumbers
changed their solder to 95/5

---Mike Savad


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 New Pages Added: Over 40 new stained glass links, Tips: How To Set Up A
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From owner-glass Sat Nov 22 16:34:18 1997
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: 40/60 solder
Date: Sat, 22 Nov 1997 19:09:12 -0500
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Zor Prime wrote:
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> I'm wondering if anyone has ever used 40/60 solder on a project. I run a
> radiator repair shop and carry my projects back and forth from home to
> the shop. I was at the shop working on a large lampshade and ran out of
> 60/40 solder so I helped myself to my radiator solder and it seemed to
> work just fine. The melting temperature was a little higher, but my end
> product looks just as good as anything else I've done. My only worry is
> whether this will be strong enough to hold up over time. I don't know
> enough about metals in general to be sure. Any suggestions?
> 
> If this turns out to be ok, it's a lot cheaper for me to buy than 60/40
> or even 50/50. You can get a 25lb. spool for $55 from radiator
> suppliers.
> 
> Thanks in advance for any input.
> 
> Kathy
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


chances are, it will melt ok, but it may not take a patina. and it may
not be as shiny. i would recommend using it on the back of panels,
lamps, and maybe for a filler. 

i've always wanted to get those huge rolls of solder for myself. but as
far as i know they don't sell those large rolls of 50/50 since plumbers
changed their solder to 95/5

---Mike Savad


-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
 New Pages Added: Over 40 new stained glass links, Tips: How To Set Up A
Shop, and My adventures with the Aliens.
----
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From owner-glass Sat Nov 22 16:52:19 1997
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From: dsj@io.com (Diane Jacobs)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Cutting surface
Date: Sat, 22 Nov 1997 13:39:49 -0600
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Not a northern thing -- I live in Austin, Texas, and a glass shop here
sells homosote (albeit already bonded to a sheet of doubleply). so they've
gotta be buying it locally.  e-mail  me privately if you want more info.



At 10:19 AM 11/20/97, David Cogen wrote:>> been to Home Depot in TX and
they don't even know what it is there
>> (Homosote).  They just opened in our area this month maybe I will find
>> someone who knows something soon.
>
>I wonder if it's a northern thing?
>
>
>I've been quiet in the discussion on cutting surfaces. Here's what I do:
>
>I use homosote underneath. This is soft, so it protects the cutter if I slip
>off the glass. On top of the homosote I spread several layers of
>newspaper. Every few cuts I pick up the front edge of the newspaper, causing
>most of the shards to fall towards the back. Some do remain, being slightly
>embedded in the newspaper. So after a while I simply discard the top layer of
>newspaper, exposing a clean sheet underneath.
>
>I don't like the brushing idea, feeling that this might cause too much
>airborne glass dust. Of course it could be misted with a water sprayer to keep
>the dust down though.
>
>I don't claim that's the best solution, but it seems to work OK for me.
>
>
>On my earlier claim that homosote would last a lifetime: please permit me to
>retract that hastily made statement. I doubt that it would. But I do feel that
>it is a reasonable, fairly inexpensive solution.
>
>
>-- David
>----
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From owner-glass Sat Nov 22 17:01:23 1997
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From: jroey@juno.com (Jerri M Roey)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Homosote board
Date: Sat, 22 Nov 1997 19:32:48 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov22.143248.0>
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deb,

	I was right, it was Home Depot.  Look in the ceiling tile
section.  I know a lot of times, the people who work there (if it's like
it is here) aren't necessarily the most knowledgable.

Jerri
arf, arf
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From owner-glass Sat Nov 22 17:11:51 1997
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From: Fishbait <fishbait@televar.com>
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Subject: Homosote Board
Date: Sat, 22 Nov 1997 17:09:32 -0800
Message-ID: <1997Nov22.9932.0>
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Went out of town today and stopped at the big Eagle Hardware store and
didn't find anything called Homosote Board----did some looking around
and found something
gray colored called carpet board is that by chance what I am looking
for?
Bonnie Clark
Washington State

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From owner-glass Sat Nov 22 17:30:33 1997
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X-Path: crcwnet.com!dandl
From: David Loda <dandl@crcwnet.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Homosote Board
Date: Sat, 22 Nov 1997 17:38:06 -0800
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Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Art Glass of Wenatchee
Precedence: bulk

Bonnie,
    That's what they call it at Eagle's, but it is what you are looking
for

Dave Loda
Wenatchee WA
GO Coug's

Fishbait wrote:

> Went out of town today and stopped at the big Eagle Hardware store and
> didn't find anything called Homosote Board----did some looking around
> and found something
> gray colored called carpet board is that by chance what I am looking
> for?
> Bonnie Clark
> Washington State
>
> ----
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From owner-glass Sat Nov 22 17:38:43 1997
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X-Path: vdot.net!shyguy
From: Gilgore Trout <shyguy@vdot.net>
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Subject: Re: Location
Date: Sat, 22 Nov 1997 15:10:42 -0500
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Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Dresden Slaughter House
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Are you up by Penland? I was just on vacation in NC this summer - great area,
not just for crafts, great BBQ too!

elsa mayer wrote:

> HELLO from Asheville, NC. up in the mountains.  A great place to live
> and even better for craftspeople.



--
'Every (person) must decide whether to walk in the light of creative
altruism or the darkness of selfishness. This is the judgement. Life's
most persistent and urgent question is "What are you doing for
others?' "Rev. Dr. Martin Luther King Jr.


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From owner-glass Sat Nov 22 17:53:27 1997
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X-Path: nowhere.net!Randy
From: Randy@nowhere.net
To: InternetUser@The.Net
Subject: Check it out...
Summary: Authenticated sender is <Randy@nowhere.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Nov 97 19:38:28 EST
Message-ID: <1997Nov23.03828.0>
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Thank You.

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From owner-glass Sat Nov 22 18:45:29 1997
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From: Johnny West <johnnyc@mercury.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Frames ??
Date: Sat, 22 Nov 1997 21:47:18 -0800
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I have been doing woodworking for years and after retirement I have 
added stained glass to my interest. I am amazed at the cost of wood 
frames. I have made several for friends for their projects as well 
as my peices. I am thinking about, after the holidays, of stocking 
up my supply of lumber and offering them to other glass enthusiast.

I would like to know if there is an interest and what size and 
shapes would be most popular??  They would certainly be less 
expensive than the ones I have seen.

J.West in Florida.....Hi Judy.
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From owner-glass Sat Nov 22 19:09:07 1997
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X-Path: shell.mpsi.net!terry-l
From: Terry <terry-l@shell.mpsi.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: patina
Date: Sat, 22 Nov 1997 21:13:39 -0800
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References: <<9711228802.AA880244983@sf-mail.mfi.com>>
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I am quite new the the stained glass scene - even though I've made a few
things already (which turned out quite nice) I have heard the term 'patina'
quite a few times now though this feed - what is this?  Thanks, and sorry
for the elementry question.
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From owner-glass Sat Nov 22 20:00:51 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!LElsbury
From: LElsbury@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Remove
Date: Sat, 22 Nov 1997 22:59:56 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov22.175956.0>
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Thank you!
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From owner-glass Sat Nov 22 20:03:58 1997
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From: LElsbury@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Solder/Flux cleanup
Date: Sat, 22 Nov 1997 23:03:14 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov22.18314.0>
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You might try a very fine steel wool pad.  I use this alot for various things
in stained glass.  If I can't get something off the glass or solder, metal
framing, etc... I pull out the steel wool - works everytime.  Be sure and use
a extra fine one so not to scratch anything.   LElsbury@aol.com from Indpls.,
IN
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From owner-glass Sat Nov 22 20:26:06 1997
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From: IMN2GLASS2@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Glass Expo
Date: Sat, 22 Nov 1997 23:25:13 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov22.182513.0>
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glenna,do you know which hotel in vegas that the expo will be held at?? I
also want to attend but I am in boston so i need more info.Thanks Judy
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From owner-glass Sat Nov 22 22:05:04 1997
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Solder/Flux cleanup
Date: Sat, 22 Nov 1997 19:02:01 -0500
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References: <<3.0.3.32.19971121211654.006a549c@mail.mpsi.net>>
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Terry wrote:
> 
> Hi there,  I was woundering if anyone could tell me a good way to clean the
> flux or brownish/black material that is left on the solder  after you have
> soldered glass together... I am not sure why it is so hard to get off - I
> have used Mineral Spirits and it comes off really easy - however it seems
> to go in under the edges of the soldered foil, and then the black glue
> kinda comes off the foil, and then everything REALLY seems to get sticky...
> Any ideas?  Could this be junky solder that is causing the problems?  I
> have no idea - the solder is 60/40 but I did not buy it at a glass
> supplier, but had it laying around from way back before I got into the
> glass stuff so I thought I would use it up... Any comments/suggestions
> would be GREATLY appreciated.  Thanks in advance :)
> 
>                                                         Terry,
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


the solder is mainly to blame. the solder you get at a stained glass
store is virgin solder. cheap solder, re-melts old crusty solder, and
the slag that should have been skimmed was'nt. so when you melt it in,
the slag is now embedded in the solder. after you solder the bead should
be a shiney silver. 

the sticky stuff is the glue coming off the foil. which usually means
your iron is to hot, your moving to slow, or your re-melting the solder
more than it need to be.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
 New Pages Added: Over 40 new stained glass links, Tips: How To Set Up A
Shop, and My adventures with the Aliens.
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From owner-glass Sun Nov 23 01:45:20 1997
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X-Path: matnet.com!rogert
From: "Tyler, Roger D." <rogert@matnet.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Glass Expo
Date: Sun, 23 Nov 1997 00:40:49 -0900
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Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Glenda,
What info do you have on the Glass Craft Expo?  We would like to plan to attend but had not heard about it.  More info would be appreciated.
Thx,
Rojean
Alaska
------------------

At 06:29 PM 11/21/97 PST, you wrote:
>Hi everyone,
>
>I just got my catalogue for the Glass Craft Expo '98 in Las Vegas
>March 12-15.  Anyone going?  I can't miss this this time.  Last year
>I waited for the show to come to San Francisco and it got cancelled.
>Unfortunately it was after the Vegas show and I was out of luck.
>I really want to take a class on reinforcing.
>See you there!
>
>
>-- 
>Glenna Rand
>gjr@bungi.com
>----
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>
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From owner-glass Sun Nov 23 05:32:17 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!MsChatee
From: MsChatee@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Glass site update
Date: Sun, 23 Nov 1997 08:31:30 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov23.33130.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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Dani,
The pictures are Beautiful!!!!
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From owner-glass Sun Nov 23 06:05:33 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!LElsbury
From: LElsbury@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: patina
Date: Sun, 23 Nov 1997 09:04:58 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov23.4458.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Patina is a chemical used on solder to change the silver color to copper,
black, antique, etc...   The "rule of thumb"  I was taught was to use the
color of foil that you are going to patina with----copper back foil, black
back foil, etc....
You should be able to find it at any glass shop or through mail order
catalogs.
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From owner-glass Sun Nov 23 06:21:27 1997
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From: IMN2GLASS2@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Glass site update
Date: Sun, 23 Nov 1997 09:20:50 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov23.42050.0>
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In a message dated 97-11-23 07:37:38 EST, you write:

<< http://eme.usa.net/greerstudios/ >>
                                        Just Checked out your web site Dani!!
It is spectacular,the pics are wonderful! Great Job,Judy
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From owner-glass Sun Nov 23 07:01:04 1997
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
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Date: Sun, 23 Nov 1997 15:58:34 +0000
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Hey Folks,
Just what I ALWAYS wanted!!!!!!!     :-D
How did that one slip in??
Elisabeth 'n Toby in UK


Quote:

\\\\\\
 O O
(   > )
  \ 0  "Come See Hard Boys"
 /   \

>>>The Internet's Premier Adult Gay Web Site<<<



You can see LIVE NUDE MALE DANCERS...

24 HOURS A DAY>>>  On your computer screen!

----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
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From owner-glass Sun Nov 23 07:01:15 1997
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From: Glasangels@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject:  Glass mosaic question
Date: Sun, 23 Nov 1997 10:00:25 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov23.5025.0>
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Precedence: bulk

"Okay, there seems to be a lot of Floridians on this list so I'll add Orlando
to the group."
      Me too, Herb,   Orlando, Florida
Coming out of lurk mode to ask a question.  Haven't posted much because I
seem to have more questions than answers....and I usually find the answers
here....but here's another one for you...I'm just getting into glass mosaic
and wondered about using mirror tesserae.  What kind of adhesive can be used
that won't erode the back of the mirror surface, and will regular grout
affect it??? should I use some sort of protective agent on the back of the
mirror?????     Anyone have experience with this?
Thanks so much in advance.   I really appreciate all the hints I've found on
this board.
Marilyn
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From owner-glass Sun Nov 23 07:01:39 1997
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X-Path: mail.nildram.co.uk!glass
From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: 40/60 solder
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@mail.nildram.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 23 Nov 1997 15:58:34 +0000
Message-ID: <199711231459.OAA16564@pluto.nildram.co.uk>
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Precedence: bulk


Hi Dani & Kathy,
I very often use 40/60 solder on lead too,  It works fine, you just 
need to know what you are doing and work reasonably fast.
Again, I teach my students using 40/60 for several reasons (economy 
being one of them). It sure makes them respect the lead and also 
makes them realize that lead CAN melt. Nothing like teaching them the 
HARD way..... ;-) Over here, 40/60 solder is approx USD11 / kg, 
whereas 60/40 nearer USD20 / kg. 40/60 solder is also more readily 
available in hardware and plumbing stores (who - for some reason- 
sell it cheaper than the stained glass suppliers) and cheaper than 
having to go  perhaps 80 miles or so to your nearest stained glass 
supplier.  That makes good sense to the hobbyist here and makes good 
sense for me therefore to teach them the use of 40/60. Provided you 
are scrupulous in cleaning your copper-foil project after soldering, 
I find that it will take patina too. Very occasionally it gets a 
little patchy; but using very fine wire-wool and re-patina usually 
does the trick. 
Elisabeth 'n Toby in UK

Dani wrote:
We'd sure be interested in
knowing if 40/60 is okay to use-
Two bucks a pound is pretty
darn cheap!  Seems like it
would be okay for copper
foil... maybe a problem for
lead because of the melting
point.  Some advice from
the experts would be appreciated.
----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
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From owner-glass Sun Nov 23 07:02:14 1997
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: glass cutters
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@mail.nildram.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 23 Nov 1997 15:58:34 +0000
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Hi all,
We have had this discussion on pistol-grip cutters before. The 
general consensus was that most people found that they are proned to 
leak.
In fact, that has been my experience too.
I do keep one or two spare for students with artheritis or other hand 
problems, but I never really use them mnyself. Have not yet tried the 
"Tomas Grip", though that looks quite promising.  When I see one over 
here, will get one to try out..
Elisabeth 'n Toby in UK


Mike Barr wrote:
 Someone recommended a pistol grip 
glass cutter. I tried using it and it seemed to be quite easy to use. 
I haven't purchased one yet and would like to get some tips, advise 
or comments about the pistol grip cutter

Tiffanie, find a good shop in your area where you can try the different 
cutters out. My favorite is the thomas grip, to me it is easier to guide 
and takes very little pressure, but I'm in the minority on that. 
Probably if you look, many glass shops have tools available for 
customers to try out. 
	

----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
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From: "M.-J. Taylor" <athena@netrox.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Check it out...
Date: Sun, 23 Nov 1997 10:32:37 -0500
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References: <<199711231459.OAA16568@pluto.nildram.co.uk>>
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I got this spam, too! I'm not as interested as Elisabeth, though. ;;;;D

At 03:58 PM 11/23/97 +0000, you wrote:
>Hey Folks,
>Just what I ALWAYS wanted!!!!!!!     :-D
>How did that one slip in??
>Elisabeth 'n Toby in UK
>
>
>Quote:
>
>\\\\\\
> O O
>(   > )
>  \ 0  "Come See Hard Boys"
> /   \
>
>>>>The Internet's Premier Adult Gay Web Site<<<
>
>
>
>You can see LIVE NUDE MALE DANCERS...
>
>24 HOURS A DAY>>>  On your computer screen!
>
>----
>As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
>North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
>http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
>----
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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>
>
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From owner-glass Sun Nov 23 07:52:29 1997
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From: "M.-J. Taylor" <athena@netrox.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Glass mosaic question
Date: Sun, 23 Nov 1997 10:43:51 -0500
Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.19971123104351.006e157c@pop.netrox.net>
References: <<1997Nov23.5025.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I coat the back of mirror tessarae with clear acrylic spray ( as I would
for stained glass), and I use both thinset and mastic as adhesives. So far,
so good, but I've only been at this for a couple of years now. I haven't
had a problem with grout.

I have also read extensively and have found no caution.

Cheers,

M.-J.

Marilyn wrote: ...I'm just getting into glass mosaic
>and wondered about using mirror tesserae.  What kind of adhesive can be used
>that won't erode the back of the mirror surface, and will regular grout
>affect it??? should I use some sort of protective agent on the back of the
>mirror?????     Anyone have experience with this?
----
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From owner-glass Sun Nov 23 08:00:21 1997
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X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: "INTERNET:glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: patina
Date: Sun, 23 Nov 1997 10:59:20 -0500
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Message text written by INTERNET:glass@bungi.com
>I have heard the term 'patina'
quite a few times now though this feed - what is this?<

Patina is a chemical solution applied to solder lines or
other metal, to change the color of the metal.  The most
common patinas used in stained glass are black, =

bright copper, antique bronze and green.  There are
several manufacturers of patinas.  All these chemicals
should be treated with respect...obtain the Material
Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) for each and follow their
safety precautions.  The results are beautiful.  I personally
use the black, bright copper and antique brass patinas
all the time.

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles, North Wales, PA
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From owner-glass Sun Nov 23 08:00:25 1997
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From: "Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: "INTERNET:glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Frames ??
Date: Sun, 23 Nov 1997 10:59:16 -0500
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Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

J.West in Florida was asking about frames.

I know 12" x 16" ovals would be my first choice
for a ready-made frame.  Can you do those?

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles, North Wales, PA

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To: "INTERNET:glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Glass mosaic question
Date: Sun, 23 Nov 1997 10:59:25 -0500
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Message text written by Marilyn:
>I'm just getting into glass mosaic
and wondered about using mirror tesserae.  What kind of adhesive can be
used
that won't erode the back of the mirror surface, and will regular grout
affect it??? should I use some sort of protective agent on the back of th=
e
mirror?????     Anyone have experience with this?<

I have used mirror in my stained glass mosaic works.
If you want to stop mirror 'black' then get some of the =

Mirror Sealant spray and seal up the back of the mirror
pieces prior to setting in the mosaic.  On the pieces I've
done the grout didn't seem to adversely effect the mirror.
As to adhesive, I use Red Devil clear for large mosaic
works, and GE Silicon II clear for smaller works.  Both
work well with either mirror or regular stained glass.

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles, North Wales, PA
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From owner-glass Sun Nov 23 08:13:48 1997
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X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Homosote Board
Date: Sun, 23 Nov 1997 11:11:38 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov23.61138.0>
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Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Fishbait wrote:
> 
> Went out of town today and stopped at the big Eagle Hardware store and
> didn't find anything called Homosote Board----did some looking around
> and found something
> gray colored called carpet board is that by chance what I am looking
> for?
> Bonnie Clark
> Washington State
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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that's probably it. that's at least one of it's uses. i guess that's
what they call it.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
 New Pages Added: Over 40 new stained glass links, Tips: How To Set Up A
Shop, and My adventures with the Aliens.
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From owner-glass Sun Nov 23 08:18:27 1997
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: patina
Date: Sun, 23 Nov 1997 11:16:12 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov23.61612.0>
References: <<3.0.3.32.19971122211339.006a1658@mail.mpsi.net>>
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Terry wrote:
> 
> I am quite new the the stained glass scene - even though I've made a few
> things already (which turned out quite nice) I have heard the term 'patina'
> quite a few times now though this feed - what is this?  Thanks, and sorry
> for the elementry question.
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


patina (in the world of stained glass), is the coloring of the solder.
copper, grey, black, pewter, green and brown, are the colors. the copper
and black are the most popular. generally patina is the overall finish.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
 New Pages Added: Over 40 new stained glass links, Tips: How To Set Up A
Shop, and My adventures with the Aliens.
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From owner-glass Sun Nov 23 08:39:36 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!LElsbury
From: LElsbury@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Homosote Board
Date: Sun, 23 Nov 1997 11:39:04 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov23.6394.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Bungi was the first place I heard of it being used for soundproofing.  I was
told from the beginning it was used in flooring.  You probably have the
correct thing.
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From owner-glass Sun Nov 23 08:44:04 1997
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From: LElsbury@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Greer Studio
Date: Sun, 23 Nov 1997 11:43:36 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov23.64336.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I have tried several version of the URL for Greer Gallery and Studios,
starting with the one posted in bungi.  I have not been able to locate it
yet.  Can any of you help me?  Thanks in advance!  LElsbury@aol.com
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From owner-glass Sun Nov 23 08:48:50 1997
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X-Path: email.msn.com!jurab
From: "PREFERRED CUSTOMER" <jurab@email.msn.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Fireplace Screen
Date: Sun, 23 Nov 1997 11:42:00 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov23.6420.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I have commission for a fireplace screen and was wondering if someone could
fill me in on details such as framing, hinges, and safety of use.  Will the
glass break from the heat?  Can I use copper foil construction or do I have
to use lead came?  Thanks for any help!!




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From owner-glass Sun Nov 23 08:57:30 1997
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X-Path: gjr
From: gjr@bungi.com (Glenna Rand)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Glass Expo
Date: Sun, 23 Nov 1997 08:56:54 PST
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[In the message entitled "Re: Glass Expo" on Nov 22, 23:25, IMN2GLASS2@aol.com writes:]
> glenna,do you know which hotel in vegas that the expo will be held at?? I
> also want to attend but I am in boston so i need more info.Thanks Judy

At the Cashman Field Convention Centre  850 Las Vegas Blvd. North



-- 
Glenna Rand
gjr@bungi.com
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From: gjr@bungi.com (Glenna Rand)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Glass Expo
Date: Sun, 23 Nov 1997 08:59:19 PST
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[In the message entitled "Re: Glass Expo" on Nov 23,  0:40, "Tyler, Roger D." writes:]
> Glenda,
> What info do you have on the Glass Craft Expo?  We would like to plan to attend but had not heard about it.  More info would be appreciated.

That's Glenna....

Call Las Vegas Management  1-800-217-4527   or 1 (702) 734-0070
They'll send you a catalogue



-- 
Glenna Rand
gjr@bungi.com
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From owner-glass Sun Nov 23 09:52:12 1997
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X-Path: erols.com!jkeane
From: Hee Sun Stained Glass <jkeane@erols.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Greer Studio
Date: Sun, 23 Nov 1997 12:19:54 -0500
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References: <<1997Nov23.64336.0>>
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At 11:43 AM 11/23/97 -0500, you wrote:
>I have tried several version of the URL for Greer Gallery and Studios,
>starting with the one posted in bungi.  I have not been able to locate it
>yet.  Can any of you help me?  Thanks in advance!  LElsbury@aol.com
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
>



I just got done looking at their site and used the URL below.

http://eme.usa.net/greerstudios/


Reallly nice.  The shots are great .
Robert &  Jeanne Keane
Hee Sun Stained Glass 
"Bestow Pleasure"
410-833-3007

jkeane@erols.com

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From owner-glass Sun Nov 23 11:08:42 1997
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From: "Tyler, Roger D." <rogert@matnet.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: glass cutters/reply
Date: Sun, 23 Nov 1997 10:06:04 -0900
Message-ID: <1.5.4.32.19971123190604.00692924@primary.matnet.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I love the pistal grip cutter, wouldn't us anything else! BUT... it does leak! Always has, in spite of all efforts to prevent this (I was hoping someone out there could tell me what to do to prevent the leaking. No, tightening the screw does NOT help). 

Note:  Good to read where everyone is located, keep it up.

Rojean
Alaska

At 03:58 PM 11/23/97 +0000, you wrote:
>Hi all,
>We have had this discussion on pistol-grip cutters before. The 
>general consensus was that most people found that they are proned to 
>leak.
>In fact, that has been my experience too.
>I do keep one or two spare for students with artheritis or other hand 
>problems, but I never really use them mnyself. Have not yet tried the 
>"Tomas Grip", though that looks quite promising.  When I see one over 
>here, will get one to try out..
>Elisabeth 'n Toby in UK
>
>
>Mike Barr wrote:
> Someone recommended a pistol grip 
>glass cutter. I tried using it and it seemed to be quite easy to use. 
>I haven't purchased one yet and would like to get some tips, advise 
>or comments about the pistol grip cutter
>
>Tiffanie, find a good shop in your area where you can try the different 
>cutters out. My favorite is the thomas grip, to me it is easier to guide 
>and takes very little pressure, but I'm in the minority on that. 
>Probably if you look, many glass shops have tools available for 
>customers to try out. 
>	
>
>----
>As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
>North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
>http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
>----
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
----
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From owner-glass Sun Nov 23 11:29:56 1997
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X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: glass cutters/reply
Date: Sun, 23 Nov 1997 14:27:14 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov23.92714.0>
References: <<1.5.4.32.19971123190604.00692924@primary.matnet.com>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Tyler, Roger D. wrote:
> 
> I love the pistal grip cutter, wouldn't us anything else! BUT... it does leak! Always has, in spite of all efforts to prevent this (I was hoping someone out there could tell me what to do to prevent the leaking. No, tightening the screw does NOT help).
> 
> Note:  Good to read where everyone is located, keep it up.
> 
> Rojean
> Alaska
> 
> At 03:58 PM 11/23/97 +0000, you wrote:
> >Hi all,
> >We have had this discussion on pistol-grip cutters before. The
> >general consensus was that most people found that they are proned to
> >leak.
> >In fact, that has been my experience too.
> >I do keep one or two spare for students with artheritis or other hand
> >problems, but I never really use them mnyself. Have not yet tried the
> >"Tomas Grip", though that looks quite promising.  When I see one over
> >here, will get one to try out..
> >Elisabeth 'n Toby in UK
> >
> >
> >Mike Barr wrote:
> > Someone recommended a pistol grip
> >glass cutter. I tried using it and it seemed to be quite easy to use.
> >I haven't purchased one yet and would like to get some tips, advise
> >or comments about the pistol grip cutter
> >
> >Tiffanie, find a good shop in your area where you can try the different
> >cutters out. My favorite is the thomas grip, to me it is easier to guide
> >and takes very little pressure, but I'm in the minority on that.
> >Probably if you look, many glass shops have tools available for
> >customers to try out.
> >
> >
> >----
> >As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
> >North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
> >http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm
> >----
> >----
> >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> >To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> >
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


is it a Toyo? i have a toyo, it leaks too. i think i filled it completly
twice, before i caught on. now i fill it a little bit, and only when i
need to use it. but i really don't use it much. mainly i don't like the
swivel head, i find it gives me less control.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
 New Pages Added: Over 40 new stained glass links, Tips: How To Set Up A
Shop, and My adventures with the Aliens.
----
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From owner-glass Sun Nov 23 11:37:38 1997
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X-Path: juno.com!jroey
From: jroey@juno.com (Jerri M Roey)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: glass cutters/reply
Date: Sun, 23 Nov 1997 14:35:48 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov23.93548.0>
References: <<1.5.4.32.19971123190604.00692924@primary.matnet.com>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

	I guess I'm one of the lucky ones.  I've had a Toyo pistol grip
for years, and it doesn't leak.  I've always been very happy with it.

Jerri




On Sun, 23 Nov 1997 10:06:04 -0900 "Tyler, Roger D." <rogert@matnet.com>
writes:
>I love the pistal grip cutter, wouldn't us anything else! BUT... it 
>does leak! Always has, in spite of all efforts to prevent this (I was 
>hoping someone out there could tell me what to do to prevent the 
>leaking. No, tightening the screw does NOT help). 
>
----
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From owner-glass Sun Nov 23 12:08:27 1997
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X-Path: matnet.com!rogert
From: "Tyler, Roger D." <rogert@matnet.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: glass cutters/reply2
Date: Sun, 23 Nov 1997 10:56:27 -0900
Message-ID: <1.5.4.32.19971123195627.00691898@primary.matnet.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Yes, Mike, it's a Toyo.  I too found an entire tube emptied a couple times B/4 I learned to only put in enuff for that days use. Live & learn. Swivel head takes a little getting used to but I like it now.
Rojean
Alaska
----------

At 02:27 PM 11/23/97 -0500, you wrote:
>Tyler, Roger D. wrote:
>> 
>> I love the pistal grip cutter, wouldn't us anything else! BUT... it does leak! Always has, in spite of all efforts to prevent this (I was hoping someone out there could tell me what to do to prevent the leaking. No, tightening the screw does NOT help).
>> 
>> Note:  Good to read where everyone is located, keep it up.
>> 
>> Rojean
>> Alaska
>> 
>> At 03:58 PM 11/23/97 +0000, you wrote:
>> >Hi all,
>> >We have had this discussion on pistol-grip cutters before. The
>> >general consensus was that most people found that they are proned to
>> >leak.
>> >In fact, that has been my experience too.
>> >I do keep one or two spare for students with artheritis or other hand
>> >problems, but I never really use them mnyself. Have not yet tried the
>> >"Tomas Grip", though that looks quite promising.  When I see one over
>> >here, will get one to try out..
>> >Elisabeth 'n Toby in UK
>> >
>> >
>> >Mike Barr wrote:
>> > Someone recommended a pistol grip
>> >glass cutter. I tried using it and it seemed to be quite easy to use.
>> >I haven't purchased one yet and would like to get some tips, advise
>> >or comments about the pistol grip cutter
>> >
>> >Tiffanie, find a good shop in your area where you can try the different
>> >cutters out. My favorite is the thomas grip, to me it is easier to guide
>> >and takes very little pressure, but I'm in the minority on that.
>> >Probably if you look, many glass shops have tools available for
>> >customers to try out.
>> >
>> >
>> >----
>> >As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
>> >North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
>> >http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm
>> >----
>> >----
>> >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>> >To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>> >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>> >
>> ----
>> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
>
>is it a Toyo? i have a toyo, it leaks too. i think i filled it completly
>twice, before i caught on. now i fill it a little bit, and only when i
>need to use it. but i really don't use it much. mainly i don't like the
>swivel head, i find it gives me less control.
>
>---Mike Savad
>
>-- 
>Mike's Stained Glass
>http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
> New Pages Added: Over 40 new stained glass links, Tips: How To Set Up A
>Shop, and My adventures with the Aliens.
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
----
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From owner-glass Sun Nov 23 12:34:08 1997
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X-Path: yahoo.com!jeanor_ak
From: Jean <jeanor_ak@yahoo.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Toyo Cutter
Date: Sun, 23 Nov 1997 12:31:52 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov23.43152.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I too use, and like, the Toyo pistol grip cutter. Like Mike and
Rojean, mine also leaks constantly! Solution? Don't fill it more than
one days use. Sure would be good if we could get a response from Toyo
about this common (apperently) problem.

Jean
So. Cal.




__________________________________________________________________
Sent by Yahoo! Mail. Get your free e-mail at http://mail.yahoo.com

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From owner-glass Sun Nov 23 12:35:47 1997
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X-Path: erols.com!jkeane
From: Hee Sun Stained Glass <jkeane@erols.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: glass cutters/reply2
Date: Sun, 23 Nov 1997 15:35:24 -0500
Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.19971123153524.006948d4@pop.erols.com>
References: <<1.5.4.32.19971123195627.00691898@primary.matnet.com>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

We too have found our Toyo completely empty and have also learned (The hard
way ) to only fill the resevoir only enough to use in a days time.  Too bad
because my wife really enjoys the pistol grip, I  however, must remember
not too apply too much pressure, the pistol grip makes it kinda easy to do
this.  Still waiting for my little Thompson Grip Supercutter.  Well back to
work.



At 10:56 AM 11/23/97 -0900, you wrote:
>Yes, Mike, it's a Toyo.  I too found an entire tube emptied a couple times
B/4 I learned to only put in enuff for that days use. Live & learn. Swivel
head takes a little getting used to but I like it now.
>Rojean
>Alaska
>----------
>
>At 02:27 PM 11/23/97 -0500, you wrote:
>>Tyler, Roger D. wrote:
>>> 
>>> I love the pistal grip cutter, wouldn't us anything else! BUT... it
does leak! Always has, in spite of all efforts to prevent this (I was
hoping someone out there could tell me what to do to prevent the leaking.
No, tightening the screw does NOT help).
>>> 
>>> Note:  Good to read where everyone is located, keep it up.
>>> 
>>> Rojean
>>> Alaska
>>> 
>>> At 03:58 PM 11/23/97 +0000, you wrote:
>>> >Hi all,
>>> >We have had this discussion on pistol-grip cutters before. The
>>> >general consensus was that most people found that they are proned to
>>> >leak.
>>> >In fact, that has been my experience too.
>>> >I do keep one or two spare for students with artheritis or other hand
>>> >problems, but I never really use them mnyself. Have not yet tried the
>>> >"Tomas Grip", though that looks quite promising.  When I see one over
>>> >here, will get one to try out..
>>> >Elisabeth 'n Toby in UK
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >Mike Barr wrote:
>>> > Someone recommended a pistol grip
>>> >glass cutter. I tried using it and it seemed to be quite easy to use.
>>> >I haven't purchased one yet and would like to get some tips, advise
>>> >or comments about the pistol grip cutter
>>> >
>>> >Tiffanie, find a good shop in your area where you can try the different
>>> >cutters out. My favorite is the thomas grip, to me it is easier to guide
>>> >and takes very little pressure, but I'm in the minority on that.
>>> >Probably if you look, many glass shops have tools available for
>>> >customers to try out.
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >----
>>> >As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
>>> >North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
>>> >http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm
>>> >----
>>> >----
>>> >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>>> >To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>>> >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>>> >
>>> ----
>>> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>>> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>>> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>>
>>
>>is it a Toyo? i have a toyo, it leaks too. i think i filled it completly
>>twice, before i caught on. now i fill it a little bit, and only when i
>>need to use it. but i really don't use it much. mainly i don't like the
>>swivel head, i find it gives me less control.
>>
>>---Mike Savad
>>
>>-- 
>>Mike's Stained Glass
>>http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
>> New Pages Added: Over 40 new stained glass links, Tips: How To Set Up A
>>Shop, and My adventures with the Aliens.
>>----
>>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
>
Robert &  Jeanne Keane
Hee Sun Stained Glass 
"Bestow Pleasure"
410-833-3007

jkeane@erols.com

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From owner-glass Sun Nov 23 13:09:28 1997
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From: GeeHaeb@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: remove
Date: Sun, 23 Nov 1997 16:08:38 -0500 (EST)
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From owner-glass Sun Nov 23 13:10:22 1997
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X-Path: intrastar.net!ssuter
From: Shirley Suter <ssuter@intrastar.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: glass cutters/reply
Date: Sun, 23 Nov 1997 15:10:01 -0600
Message-ID: <1997Nov23.9101.0>
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Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Intrastellar Internet Service & Suter's Stained Glass
Precedence: bulk

Jerri M Roey wrote:
> 
>         I guess I'm one of the lucky ones.  I've had a Toyo pistol grip
> for years, and it doesn't leak.  I've always been very happy with it.

Me too, me too, Jerri.  I have two of them that don't leak.  The first I
purchased new from a glass supplier for full retail price...the second,
I purchased at a garage sale for 25 cents.  The lady at the sale
complained that it leaked, but I got it home and adjusted the "wick",
filled it with oil and tightened the filler-hole screw.  It works
perfectly without leaks.

By tightening the tiny Philips screw on the cutter head, one can adjust
the swivel (or lack thereof).  I have cut many, many miles of scores
with these two Toyo cutters and am completely satisfied with their
service.

Shirley
Grapeland, Tx.
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From owner-glass Sun Nov 23 13:48:01 1997
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X-Path: water.waterw.com!artglass
From: artglass@water.waterw.com (pj friend)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Fireplace Screen
Date: Sun, 23 Nov 1997 16:46:47 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <199711232146.QAA01469@water.waterw.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Perferred customer wrote:

>I have commission for a fireplace screen and was wondering if someone could
>fill me in on details such as framing, hinges, and safety of use.  Will the
>glass break from the heat?  Can I use copper foil construction or do I have
>to use lead came?  Thanks for any help!!

Well let me break it to you gently...fireplace screens created in stained
glass are called
decorative screens.  Ah, I would let your client know up front that it is
just that...decoration.  Not to keep the burning embers out of the room!!

Ok now that I burst the bubble....we happen to have done quite a number of
them them. 
And never (she says with fingers crossed!!!) have we had one explode, break
or melt.

There are many ways to frame ....we have done numerous ones in brass came
with brass hinges......stainless clasps that can be found in C&R loo catalog
these are just attached to the side panels and tightened in place and even
some that were designed with carved wooden bases.  There are probably just
as many ways to finish and support these as there are designs.  The
simpliest being just to attach hinges to the frames of the completed panels. 

Now to the copper foil question......ah............ personally we just don't
do copper foil.
So the answer would be really biased and if you would like to get into the
foil vs.  lead debate I would be delighted!!!

my best,
pj


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From owner-glass Sun Nov 23 13:48:05 1997
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X-Path: teleport.com!weaver51
From: weaver51@teleport.com (H. Rubin...)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: H. Rubin panel lamp shades direct
Date: Sun, 23 Nov 1997 13:46:55 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <199711232146.NAA18948@mail1.teleport.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

This maybe of interest to you who have public access shops and or studios.
I can supply you with 8 panel 8 or 16 or 24 piece production shades on a 
wholesale level with no minimum purchase.
My production shades can be duplicated exactly from the numbers engraved 
on each shade (signed and numbered).

For more information e-mail me privately.

Sincerely, Howard

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From owner-glass Sun Nov 23 13:50:35 1997
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From: "jcampbell" <jcampbell@mfi.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1"; X-MAPIextension=".TXT"
Subject: Re: Frames ??
Date: Sun, 23 Nov 97 17:37:47 PST
Message-ID: <1997Nov24.13747.0>
References: <<1997Nov22.134718.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi John!.  Saw your message.  Is your question the reason I'v got 48 mess=
ages today?
Hope you have some good interest.

jc

----------
>
> I have been doing woodworking for years and after retirement I have
> added stained glass to my interest. I am amazed at the cost of wood
> frames. I have made several for friends for their projects as well
> as my peices. I am thinking about, after the holidays, of stocking
> up my supply of lumber and offering them to other glass enthusiast.
>
> I would like to know if there is an interest and what size and
> shapes would be most popular??  They would certainly be less
> expensive than the ones I have seen.
>
> J.West in Florida.....Hi Judy.
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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From owner-glass Sun Nov 23 14:35:01 1997
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From: Lori <bunzie@flash.net>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
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Subject: RE: Fireplace Screen
Date: Sun, 23 Nov 1997 17:28:18 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov23.122818.0>
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------ =_NextPart_000_01BCF835.D1E60880
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
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PJ,

I've been DYING to see completed firescreens.  Any chance I can view yours somewhere on the web?  Thanks!

~Lori
Southeastern Michigan

----------
From: 	pj friend[SMTP:artglass@water.waterw.com]
Sent: 	Sunday, November 23, 1997 11:46 AM
To: 	glass@bungi.com
Subject: 	Re: Fireplace Screen

Perferred customer wrote:

>I have commission for a fireplace screen and was wondering if someone could
>fill me in on details such as framing, hinges, and safety of use.  Will the
>glass break from the heat?  Can I use copper foil construction or do I have
>to use lead came?  Thanks for any help!!

Well let me break it to you gently...fireplace screens created in stained
glass are called
decorative screens.  Ah, I would let your client know up front that it is
just that...decoration.  Not to keep the burning embers out of the room!!

Ok now that I burst the bubble....we happen to have done quite a number of
them them. 
And never (she says with fingers crossed!!!) have we had one explode, break
or melt.

There are many ways to frame ....we have done numerous ones in brass came
with brass hinges......stainless clasps that can be found in C&R loo catalog
these are just attached to the side panels and tightened in place and even
some that were designed with carved wooden bases.  There are probably just
as many ways to finish and support these as there are designs.  The
simpliest being just to attach hinges to the frames of the completed panels. 

Now to the copper foil question......ah............ personally we just don't
do copper foil.
So the answer would be really biased and if you would like to get into the
foil vs.  lead debate I would be delighted!!!

my best,
pj


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From owner-glass Sun Nov 23 14:40:39 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!Beveler4
From: Beveler4@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Glass Expo
Date: Sun, 23 Nov 1997 17:39:51 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov23.123951.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Yes I am planning on going to the show in Vegas. Does anyone know which
hotels would be the closest to the convention center? Are we going to wear
bungi's to identify ourselves? I haven't recieved any info yet but am looking
forward to the show and going to some classes. Just have to stay away from
the one armed bandits they eat the change right out of your pockets!!
Beveler4@aol.com
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From owner-glass Sun Nov 23 15:30:51 1997
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From: Carolyn Duncan <chick@cyberg8t.com>
To: newsgroup <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Las Vegas
Date: Sun, 23 Nov 1997 15:28:00 -0800
Message-ID: <1997Nov23.7280.0>
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Precedence: bulk

I plan to go to the LV Expo.  I have gone the past 3 yrs. and have
enjoyed it.  I stay at the Four Queens and there has been a shuttle
provided in the past to Cashman Field.  Not sure about this year.  I
live in LaVerne CA.  Are there any others near?  Carolyn
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From owner-glass Sun Nov 23 15:34:38 1997
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X-Path: snowcrest.net!beermug
From: Paul Deutsch <beermug@snowcrest.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: glass cutters
Date: Sun, 23 Nov 1997 15:33:56 -0800 (PST)
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I don't worry about the pistol grip leaking oil, I don't put it in the
handle.  I use a small jar with a sponge in the bottom and soak the sponge
with cutting oil, or WD 40, just push cutting head into the sponge every few
cuts and it keeps the cutting edge lubricated without putting oil on the glass.

Sherry
Northern Ca.

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From owner-glass Sun Nov 23 19:42:35 1997
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X-Path: juno.com!g.j.white.gowings
From: g.j.white.gowings@juno.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Glass Expo
Date: Sun, 23 Nov 1997 13:34:07 -0700
Message-ID: <1997Nov23.6347.0>
References: <<1997Nov23.123951.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I was just there, and the Las Vegas Hilton was right next door...
hope that helps...
Jeanne

On Sun, 23 Nov 1997 17:39:51 -0500 (EST) Beveler4@aol.com writes:
>Yes I am planning on going to the show in Vegas. Does anyone know 
>which
>hotels would be the closest to the convention center? Are we going to 
>wear
>bungi's to identify ourselves? I haven't recieved any info yet but am 
>looking
>forward to the show and going to some classes. Just have to stay away 
>from
>the one armed bandits they eat the change right out of your pockets!!
>Beveler4@aol.com
>----
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>
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From owner-glass Sun Nov 23 20:05:48 1997
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X-Path: sgi.net!mindwarp
From: mindwarp <mindwarp@sgi.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Location
Date: Sun, 23 Nov 1997 22:50:56 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov23.175056.0>
References: <<199711211611.LAA16855@dns.city-net.com>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Daniela Birkelbach wrote:
> 
> Hi everyone!
> 
> I am a newbie as well (just about a year in Stained Glass) and live in
> Pittsburgh, PA. (Bethel Park).    Born in Cologne, Germany.  I put a couple
> of my projects onto my webpage below. Check it out!.
> http://www.city-net.com/~dany/pictures.html#sunflower
> 
> I am enjoying this list very much!  Thanks to everyone!
> 
> Dany
> 


I don't live too far from you Dany.... I live in Baldwin, 10 minutes
from Century III Mall.

Sandi
;-)
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From owner-glass Sun Nov 23 21:09:33 1997
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From: Carolyn Duncan <chick@cyberg8t.com>
To: newsgroup <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Las Vegas
Date: Sun, 23 Nov 1997 21:04:45 -0800
Message-ID: <1997Nov23.13445.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

The Glass Expo is at Cashman Field not the Las Vegas Convention Center. 
The Hilton is adjacent to the Las Vegas Convention Center.  I checked
the pamphlet and they will have shuttles leaving from the Four Queen's
and Golden Nugget which are downtown.  Boulder Station Hotel on the
outskirts of Vegas.  I hope this helps.  Carolyn
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From owner-glass Sun Nov 23 21:27:13 1997
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X-Path: yahoo.com!jeanor_ak
From: Jean <jeanor_ak@yahoo.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Glass Expo
Date: Sun, 23 Nov 1997 21:24:21 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov23.132421.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I would like to plan to attend too. Does someone have all the info on
this? Like exact dates it's running?
Thx
Jean
So. Cal



---Glenna Rand <gjr@bungi.com> wrote:
>
> [In the message entitled "Re: Glass Expo" on Nov 22, 23:25,
IMN2GLASS2@aol.com writes:]
> > glenna,do you know which hotel in vegas that the expo will be held
at?? I
> > also want to attend but I am in boston so i need more info.Thanks
Judy
> 
> At the Cashman Field Convention Centre  850 Las Vegas Blvd. North
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Glenna Rand
> gjr@bungi.com
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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> 

__________________________________________________________________
Sent by Yahoo! Mail. Get your free e-mail at http://mail.yahoo.com

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From owner-glass Mon Nov 24 04:27:03 1997
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X-Path: memach.com!lcbell
From: Linda Campbell <lcbell@memach.com>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: RE: Temperature of Shop
Date: Mon, 24 Nov 1997 07:25:12 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov24.22512.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I'm not so superstitious but after living in a old farm house with poor =
heat it seems to me glass scores and breaks easier if warmed. Actually, =
I got it almost hot by placing it on a kerosine heater for a minute or =
two. Maybe it's one of those things that works but nobody knows why?

Linda in Suffolk, Virginia

----------
From: 	Albert Lewis[SMTP:alewis@computer.net]
Sent: 	Friday, November 21, 1997 1:45 AM
To: 	glass@bungi.com
Subject: 	Re: Temperature of Shop


> eye, it really does cut better.  Even if it is just 'in my head' I =
will
> continue, as I rarely get a 'bad break' if the glass is hot

Perfectly all right, Lee ... whatever works. <s>  Heck, I do=20
superstitious things myself, even though doing them doesn't mean that=20
I'm guaranteed the outcome I'm looking for.

Albert

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From owner-glass Mon Nov 24 04:58:15 1997
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From: BETTY_HALL@RJF2.RJF.COM (BETTY HALL)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: <None>
Date: 24 Nov 97 07:57:13 EST
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Pat,



That would be wonderful!  You could send them to me directly at 
BettyH@rjf2.rjf.com.  I thank you in advance!







Betty, Internal Audit, Ext. 4160

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From owner-glass Mon Nov 24 05:24:30 1997
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X-Path: pobox.com!Northernlights
From: Northernlights <Northernlights@pobox.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Frames ??
Date: Mon, 24 Nov 1997 07:25:58 -0600
Message-ID: <1997Nov24.12558.0>
References: <<1997Nov22.134718.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I know I could use some wood frames -- basic sizes in squares and
rectangles.  I'm working on a design for a medicine wheel though and
wonder if it's possible to get a round wood frame approximately 18" to
20" in diameter.  Definitely put me on your list of people to contact
when you start doing this.  Thanks!
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From owner-glass Mon Nov 24 06:45:43 1997
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From: SSparks99@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Solder/Flux cleanup
Date: Mon, 24 Nov 1997 09:43:48 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov24.44348.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Mr. Savad -

I notice you say that your solder shoud be shiny silver.  Mine is shiny
silver in some places and not in others.  What am I doing wrong?  

I am a big beginner.

Keli
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From owner-glass Mon Nov 24 06:46:31 1997
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From: SSparks99@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Glass Expo
Date: Mon, 24 Nov 1997 09:45:10 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov24.44510.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Does the Glass Craft Expo '98 only come to one city?  I live in Alabama and
would go to one closer - Atlanta, Birmingham, Nashville, Memphis.  

Or - are there ever any other types or kinds of shows this size that make it
around the nation?

Keli
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From owner-glass Mon Nov 24 06:50:19 1997
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From: SSparks99@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Alabama Location
Date: Mon, 24 Nov 1997 09:48:54 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov24.44854.0>
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I am in the north Alabama location - halfway between Nashville, Tennessee and
Birmingham, Alabama.  Born in Wichita, Kansas and raised in Seattle,
Washington.  Here for eleven years.  

Anybody e-mailing from the south?  

Keli
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From owner-glass Mon Nov 24 06:51:15 1997
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X-Path: mfi.com!shaley
From: "Suzanne Haley"<shaley@mfi.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Re[2]: Homosote Board 
Date: Mon, 24 Nov 97 06:38:21 -0800
Message-ID: <9711248803.AA880383053@sf-mail.mfi.com>
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Bonnie -- it is called carpet board -- made out of recycled newspapers.  Hate to
have a water leak or such.  I purchased a sheet at Home Depot this week.  
Customer service said they had never heard of it--did not look up on computer.  
Went searching behind the insulation and there it was.  Sign said "new item". 
(By the way, went back by way of customer service!)

Cost was $18.49.  Covered one of our tables with it.  Cutting glass last 
night--really liked cutting on the board...much better than wood or the Morton 
System. Suzanne Haley, Koi Glass Studio, Santa Rosa, CA

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: Homosote Board 
Author:  <glass@bungi.com > at Internet
Date:    11/23/97 11:11 AM


Fishbait wrote:
> 
> Went out of town today and stopped at the big Eagle Hardware store and 
> didn't find anything called Homosote Board----did some looking around 
> and found something
> gray colored called carpet board is that by chance what I am looking 
> for?
> Bonnie Clark
> Washington State
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com 
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that's probably it. that's at least one of it's uses. i guess that's 
what they call it.
     
---Mike Savad
     
-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
 New Pages Added: Over 40 new stained glass links, Tips: How To Set Up A
Shop, and My adventures with the Aliens. 
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From owner-glass Mon Nov 24 06:55:51 1997
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From: SSparks99@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Decorative Solder
Date: Mon, 24 Nov 1997 09:54:20 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov24.45420.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I am a beginner and I am already interested in decorative solder.  I have a
great interest in adding a special touch to my own work, though very easy and
small.  

I have a few questions - all kind of intermingled:  
- Does decorative solder have to be silver?  
- How many kinds of soldering iron tips are available?  
- When you do decorative solder, do you do it on the project itself, or do
you do it to    
      the side and solder it to the project later?  
- Should I wait until I am in a more advanced level?  

Decorative solder looks like it will add so much to a project, though I
really haven't seen it - I have seen the solder decorations but they were in
a book on doing it.  

Keli
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From owner-glass Mon Nov 24 07:18:36 1997
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X-Path: vgernet.net!alewis
From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@vgernet.net>
To: Int'l, Guild, of, Glass, Artists
Subject: New IGGA address
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@vgernet.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Nov 1997 10:23:07 +0000
Message-ID: <m0xa0Fl-0000MLC@daver.bungi.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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Hello there.  The offices of the International Guild of Glass Artists 
have moved. Please update your address books.  Thanks.

International Guild of Glass Artists
54 Cherry Street, P.O. Box 1809
North Adams, MA 01247-1809

(413) 633-5512
Fax: (413) 633-7167 (effective Wed., 11/26)
email: alewis@vgernet.net

The web site has already been updated as far as I know ... but if you 
stumble across the old address info on any of the 244 pages you find 
there, I'd appreciate hearing about it.

Thanks again,

Albert Lewis, Executive Director
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From owner-glass Mon Nov 24 07:37:11 1997
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From: "Hilary A. Bobker" <hilary@voicenet.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Glass Expo
Date: Mon, 24 Nov 1997 10:35:22 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov24.53522.0>
References: <<m0xZ5Jr-00004ZC@daver.bungi.com>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: HABit Fashion Services
Precedence: bulk

Hi, Glenna,

We are really going to try to go this year. It depends on whether my
"day job" will let me have off the weekdays. It would really be great if
all of us could get together for dinner or drinks or something!

Hilary

> I just got my catalogue for the Glass Craft Expo '98 in Las Vegas
> March 12-15.  Anyone going?
----
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From owner-glass Mon Nov 24 07:48:48 1997
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X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Decorative Solder
Date: Mon, 24 Nov 1997 10:45:59 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov24.54559.0>
References: <<1997Nov24.45420.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

SSparks99@aol.com wrote:
> 
> I am a beginner and I am already interested in decorative solder.  I have a
> great interest in adding a special touch to my own work, though very easy and
> small.
> 
> I have a few questions - all kind of intermingled:
> - Does decorative solder have to be silver?
> - How many kinds of soldering iron tips are available?
> - When you do decorative solder, do you do it on the project itself, or do
> you do it to
>       the side and solder it to the project later?
> - Should I wait until I am in a more advanced level?
> 
> Decorative solder looks like it will add so much to a project, though I
> really haven't seen it - I have seen the solder decorations but they were in
> a book on doing it.
> 
> Keli
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

for beginners, it takes alot of practice, and patience. it's difficult
to control the solder the same way each time. 

1. the decorative solder can be any color, it's still solder. but you
might even want to paint it a different color with a glass paint.

2. there can be many tips and no tips available. most iorons will have a
small size 1/8"-1/4". 

3. decorative soldering has to be done on the project, but in some cases
it can be done next to it. like if you make solder letters, that
should'nt be done on the project or the glass could crack.

4. it mainly takes practice. i would learn how to make a good qaulity
bead before attempting some of the dec. work. a begginer can do
hammered, ball, grape vine, and maybe bamboo (depending on quality of
the bead.)

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
 New Pages Added: Over 40 new stained glass links, Tips: How To Set Up A
Shop, and My adventures with the Aliens.
----
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From owner-glass Mon Nov 24 07:53:26 1997
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Solder/Flux cleanup
Date: Mon, 24 Nov 1997 10:50:53 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov24.55053.0>
References: <<1997Nov24.44348.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

SSparks99@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Mr. Savad -
> 
> I notice you say that your solder shoud be shiny silver.  Mine is shiny
> silver in some places and not in others.  What am I doing wrong?
> 
> I am a big beginner.
> 
> Keli
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


it could be a number of things:

1. your iron could be dirty
2. the solder could be a low quality, go with canfield, dutchboy,
hirshfield (sp?), willard, classique, and i think a few others. these
are meant for stained glass work.
3. the foil may have some kind of contamination on it. always try to use
new foil, not foil that's been laying around for a few years unused.
4. it could be the flux your using, but that's kind of slim.

mostly, most of my solder is shiny, occasinally it will be a matt color
at times. to make it shiny use the joy - baking soda mix to wash it off.
only use more baking soda. or use steel wool and a polish, or just use a
polish.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
 New Pages Added: Over 40 new stained glass links, Tips: How To Set Up A
Shop, and My adventures with the Aliens.
----
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From owner-glass Mon Nov 24 08:13:46 1997
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X-Path: vgernet.net!alewis
From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@vgernet.net>
To: Noelle Backer <nbacker@craftsreport.com>
Subject: Re: IGGA's new address
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@vgernet.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Nov 1997 11:20:28 +0000
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> Albert: I just received a forwarded message about the International Guild
> of Glass Artists' change in address ... Here is the new info. I received:
> 
> International Guild of Glass Artists
> >54 Cherry Street, P.O. Box 1809
> >North Adams, MA 01247-1809
> >
> >(413) 633-5512
> >Fax: (413) 633-7167 (effective Wed., 11/26)
> >email: alewis@vgernet.net

Aw, leave it to someone as careful as those who put out The Crafts 
Report to notice that I don't even know my own phone number.  Well, 
we *did just move!  I have 'em written down in front of me, but I 
gave them to you wrong.  They should be:

(413) 663-5512 phone
(413) 663-7167 fax (to be installed Wednesday a.m.)
email: alewis@vgernet.net

Sorry about the error.  Forty lashes for me.

Albert Lewis, Executive Director
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From owner-glass Mon Nov 24 08:17:07 1997
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From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@vgernet.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: RE: Temperature of Shop
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@vgernet.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Nov 1997 11:24:28 +0000
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> Maybe it's one of those things that works but nobody knows why?

It's more like "it's one of those things that work for you, but 
nobody knows why you do it." <g>  Again, the temperature of the glass 
has nothing to do with whether it cuts, whether it cuts easily, or 
whether it'll follow the score line you thought it would. (Whoops!)

Most things work better, it seems, if we *think whatever we're doing 
will make them work better, so by all means, if warming the glass 
makes cutting it easier for you, go ahead and do it. <s>  It isn't 
really necessary, though.

Albert

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From owner-glass Mon Nov 24 08:30:04 1997
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X-Path: snowcrest.net!beermug
From: Paul Deutsch <beermug@snowcrest.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Frames ??
Date: Mon, 24 Nov 1997 08:29:02 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <199711241629.IAA24440@snowcrest.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Check with Mike Peck at Summit Stained Glass, I think the E address is 
summit-stained-glass@worldnet.att.net


At 07:25 AM 11/24/97 -0600, you wrote:
>I know I could use some wood frames -- basic sizes in squares and
>rectangles.  I'm working on a design for a medicine wheel though and
>wonder if it's possible to get a round wood frame approximately 18" to
>20" in diameter.  Definitely put me on your list of people to contact
>when you start doing this.  Thanks!


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From owner-glass Mon Nov 24 08:39:24 1997
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Date: Mon, 24 Nov 1997 11:40:04 -0500
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_01BCF8CD.B4DE8F80
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Sorry, I need you to remove me from list - too many messages are causing my
email to gum up the server and not work properly.

Thanks.

cimerz@lrkimball.com
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<html><head></head><BODY bgcolor=3D"#FFFFFF"><p><font size=3D2 =
color=3D"#000000" face=3D"Arial"><br>Sorry, I need you to remove me from =
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From owner-glass Mon Nov 24 09:10:33 1997
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From: "Suzanne Haley"<shaley@mfi.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Re[2]: Glass Expo   Who is going???? Get together???
Date: Mon, 24 Nov 97 08:44:15 -0800
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     Glenna and Hilary,
     We will be going.  Offered earlier name tags with small bungi cord 
     (free) -- if you are going and want one (or anyone else) -- email me 
     at shaley@mfi.com and I will make one up for you.  Suzanne & George 
     Haley, KOI GLASS STUDIO, Santa Rosa, CA


______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: Glass Expo 
Author:  <glass@bungi.com > at Internet
Date:    11/24/97 10:35 AM


Hi, Glenna,
     
We are really going to try to go this year. It depends on whether my 
"day job" will let me have off the weekdays. It would really be great if 
all of us could get together for dinner or drinks or something!
     
Hilary
     
> I just got my catalogue for the Glass Craft Expo '98 in Las Vegas 
> March 12-15.  Anyone going?
----
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From owner-glass Mon Nov 24 09:23:24 1997
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X-Path: remc7.k12.mi.us!slamb
From: Sally Lamb <slamb@remc7.k12.mi.us>
To: Stained Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: A Sticky Tip
Date: Mon, 24 Nov 1997 12:21:46 -0500
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Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

For those of you who trace a paper pattern onto your glass (like I do), I
found something that helps me. "Post-it" glue, which comes in a  stick-form
(kinda like a lipstick tupe), works great. It keeps the pattern from
slipping around and wipes right off. Like "Post-it" notes, it's not a
permanent glue, but just tacky enough to hold a paper pattern in place.

Sal
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From owner-glass Mon Nov 24 10:50:57 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!DMR74
From: DMR74@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Homasote board UPDATE
Date: Mon, 24 Nov 1997 13:49:33 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov24.84933.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Ok thankyou everyone, 
but here is my update... called Homasote in NJ asked them where locally I
could purchase a sheet...Hmmm I also asked what the uses of Homasote were so
that I could give a more accurate discription of what I needed... they said
it has many uses... but they did tell me that it is made out of recycled
newspaper.  they gave me a # in Austin  (5hours away) Zimmermans... who gave
me 3 locations in Houston (3hours away) Camerons, Warehouser, and Builders
Square.  Ok so the next trip to Houston will probably find me there.  
BUT... I called back Home Depot and asked for them to do a product search, no
luck asked if they had carpet board NOPE.
Called many acoustic places , one actually knew what it was, and finally got
a small lumber yard to check about special order... He wanted to know what
size I wanted and if I wanted it finished on one side or both sides or what
<ARG> like there is really that many choices.  Called him about an hour ago
Hmm phone hasn't rung back yet.  If this stuff really does come in different
finishes please let me know what I'm supposed to get.  This is like I'm on a
mission now LOL
deb
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From owner-glass Mon Nov 24 11:38:45 1997
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From: DMR74@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Location
Date: Mon, 24 Nov 1997 14:34:49 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov24.93449.0>
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Thought I'd add a little about my location,
I am in South East Texas very very close to the LA border.  town called Buna
but Beaumont is what most people know its about 40 miles from here and I'm 40
miles from LA too.
been here 16 years but am originally from LI NY (lived there 20 years and
been many other places in between.
Dad lives in Orlando and I go there 2X per year.
deb
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From owner-glass Mon Nov 24 11:44:23 1997
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X-Path: memach.com!lcbell
From: Linda Campbell <lcbell@memach.com>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: RE: Temperature of Shop
Date: Mon, 24 Nov 1997 14:45:27 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov24.94527.0>
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Albert,=20

You can always make me smile, even if it is only in my own mind. <BG> =
Hey, I'd touch my tongue to the end of my nose if I thought it would =
help me cut glass. Opps, when my concentration is right, maybe I do. =
Maybe after I think about this a while, I'll feel foolish and stop dong =
it.=20

Keep us all straight now, ya hear!


Smiling impishly, even here at work....Linda
Hope no body sees me.....


----------
From: 	Albert Lewis[SMTP:alewis@vgernet.net]
Sent: 	Monday, November 24, 1997 6:24 AM
To: 	glass@bungi.com
Subject: 	RE: Temperature of Shop


> Maybe it's one of those things that works but nobody knows why?

It's more like "it's one of those things that work for you, but=20
nobody knows why you do it." <g>  Again, the temperature of the glass=20
has nothing to do with whether it cuts, whether it cuts easily, or=20
whether it'll follow the score line you thought it would. (Whoops!)

Most things work better, it seems, if we *think whatever we're doing=20
will make them work better, so by all means, if warming the glass=20
makes cutting it easier for you, go ahead and do it. <s>  It isn't=20
really necessary, though.

Albert

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From owner-glass Mon Nov 24 12:43:11 1997
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From: Carolyn364@aol.com
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Subject: Remove
Date: Mon, 24 Nov 1997 15:40:15 -0500 (EST)
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Please remove
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From owner-glass Mon Nov 24 13:25:12 1997
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From: KC <xkellych@ssimicro.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re:Location
Date: Mon, 24 Nov 1997 14:24:24
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Hi Teri,

"Glowing Panes" is actually just about 15 min. away from where I will be
staying.
I'll check it out for sure.  Thanks for the info.

Kelly

At 06:12 PM 11/21/97 EDT, you wrote:

>There is a stained glass store in Thornhill, Ontario called "Glowing
>Panes". Great name, don't you think?? The address is 11 Glen Cameron
>Road Unit 12. It is off Yonge Street, a few blocks north of Steeles
>Avenue, if that means anything to you. The phone number there is
>905-889-6858.
>
>Another stained glass store I know of is in south end of Toronto
>(Etobicoke), which is farther south than what you are asking for but it
>is definitely a place to check out. I really love the place. It is
>called Fantasy In Glass. The address is 703 The Queensway. The phone
>number is 416-252-6868.
>
>The staff at both places are great. You'll really enjoy your visits
>there. I hope you have a great time in Toronto.
>
>Teri
>

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From owner-glass Mon Nov 24 15:04:22 1997
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From: kittyr@pinn.net (Kitty Randall)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: location & intro
Date: Mon, 24 Nov 1997 18:02:53 -0500 (EST)
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Well, since I didn't see a post from anyone around here I thought I'd post
my location and introduce myself as well.  I'm in Hampton, VA (between VA
Beach & Williamsburg).  I've been doing stained glass for about two years
now and have recently gotten into applications with vitreous stains and
enamels.  I really enjoy this list!

ttfn
-Kitty 

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From owner-glass Mon Nov 24 15:51:14 1997
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Please remove.

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From owner-glass Mon Nov 24 19:07:16 1997
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From: Zor Prime <hupp@citynet.net>
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Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Homasote board UPDATE
Date: Mon, 24 Nov 1997 23:00:23 -0800
Message-ID: <1997Nov24.15023.0>
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Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Gamma Force
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DMR74@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Ok thankyou everyone,
> but here is my update... called Homasote in NJ asked them where locally I
> could purchase a sheet...Hmmm I also asked what the uses of Homasote were so
> that I could give a more accurate discription of what I needed... they said
> it has many uses... but they did tell me that it is made out of recycled
> newspaper.  they gave me a # in Austin  (5hours away) Zimmermans... who gave
> me 3 locations in Houston (3hours away) Camerons, Warehouser, and Builders
> Square.  Ok so the next trip to Houston will probably find me there.
> BUT... I called back Home Depot and asked for them to do a product search, no
> luck asked if they had carpet board NOPE.
> Called many acoustic places , one actually knew what it was, and finally got
> a small lumber yard to check about special order... He wanted to know what
> size I wanted and if I wanted it finished on one side or both sides or what
> <ARG> like there is really that many choices.  Called him about an hour ago
> Hmm phone hasn't rung back yet.  If this stuff really does come in different
> finishes please let me know what I'm supposed to get.  This is like I'm on a
> mission now LOL
> deb
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

Deb,

In case you have no luck, homasote board can be purchased by mail from
the Stained Glass Workshop. Phone #800-669-7151. That's where I got
mine.

Kathy
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From owner-glass Mon Nov 24 21:50:10 1997
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X-Path: abelink.com!rbaker
From: Di Baker <rbaker@abelink.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Hand held foiler
Date: Mon, 24 Nov 1997 23:48:52 -0500
Message-ID: <v03007803b0a0083ee687@[206.29.84.158]>
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Hi Everyone!

I got the handheld foiler finally working thanks to all of your wonderful
instructions. Thank you! This is great & really speeds up the foiling
process. I also have an Inland foiler but just can't get the hang of it &
now I'm wondering if I have it fed backwards also <g>. Ya know us
lefties...try to reverse everything.

I also just got the Ringstar glass pliers & just can't believe how much
easier it is to get a good break fast & easy. If you haven't seen these go
try out a pair. I was worried when they came since they are so big <g> --
but they are very lightweight & they do a great job. Great investment.

So any other goodies I should stock up on to make this easier?

Thanks,

Di Baker

~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~*~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~*
                _ |\_
                \` ..\   Di Baker       <rbaker@abelink.com>
           __,.-" =__Y=  Kitties--Bogie Blue, Chanel Blue, Sarah,
   jgs   ."        )              Tornado, Cagney
   _    /   ,    \/\_    Wanna see how cute we are? Visit us at:
  ((____|    )_-\ \_-`   http://www.islandnet.com/~jbrooks/di1.htm
  `-----'`-----` `--`
~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~*~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* ~* 


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From owner-glass Mon Nov 24 22:16:29 1997
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X-Path: home.com!leestat7
From: leestat7 <leestat7@home.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: glass cutters/reply
Date: Tue, 25 Nov 1997 01:11:52 -0500
Message-ID: <1997Nov24.201152.0>
References: <<1997Nov23.93548.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: @Home Network
Precedence: bulk

My Toyo pistol grip doesn't leak either, and I keep it in a glass jar
with papertoweling on the bottom.  I poured extra oil on the toweling,
and it works fine.  

Lee Boe
Rain-Boe's Creations
Sarasota, Florida

Jerri M Roey wrote:
> 
>         I guess I'm one of the lucky ones.  I've had a Toyo pistol grip
> for years, and it doesn't leak.  I've always been very happy with it.
> 
> Jerri
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From owner-glass Mon Nov 24 22:50:59 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!Bubstah
From: Bubstah@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: My Location
Date: Tue, 25 Nov 1997 01:50:11 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov24.205011.0>
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Where in the Florida keys?  I not too far from you but I am on the west coast
of Florida, Naples to be more explicit.   Maybe we could "do lunch"
:>))
Bubstah@aol.com
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From owner-glass Mon Nov 24 23:19:49 1997
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X-Path: direct.ca!kmccullo
From: kmccullo@direct.ca
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: location & intro (Kitty)
Date: Mon, 24 Nov 1997 23:21:17 -0800
Message-ID: <E0xaFGx-0002kf-00@jack.direct.ca>
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Welcome aboard Kitty ! This is a great list isn't it ! 

Karin, (Vancouver, Canada) well not really Vancouver, but you will probably
know more where that is than the suburbs of our fair & rather rainy city.


>Well, since I didn't see a post from anyone around here I thought I'd post
>my location and introduce myself as well.  I'm in Hampton, VA (between VA
>Beach & Williamsburg).  I've been doing stained glass for about two years
>now and have recently gotten into applications with vitreous stains and
>enamels.  I really enjoy this list!
>
>ttfn
>-Kitty 
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
>

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From owner-glass Mon Nov 24 23:39:27 1997
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X-Path: direct.ca!kmccullo
From: kmccullo@direct.ca
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re:Location
Date: Mon, 24 Nov 1997 23:37:33 -0800
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Precedence: bulk

Hello, and nice to see more of us Canadians on this list. 

Karin

And I suppose I should remove the rest of the conversation, as in the past
some get their Knickers in a Knot if there is too much reading to do. 

You wrote:

>Hi, welcome to the list.
>
>Are there any good stained glass supplies stores
>in Markham/Scarborough area?  I will be going
>down to Toronto in Dec. and hoping to get some supplies.
>
>Thanks in advance.
>
>Kelly
>Yellowknife, NT
>Canada
>
>>>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
>

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From owner-glass Mon Nov 24 23:44:38 1997
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X-Path: direct.ca!kmccullo
From: kmccullo@direct.ca
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Location
Date: Mon, 24 Nov 1997 23:45:39 -0800
Message-ID: <E0xaFeX-0007fN-00@edam.direct.ca>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Welcome Dany, I was originally from Germany also, Koblenz. Do you still
speak the language ? I still do a little, however, with an English accent.
Actually, people tell me that I sound like I'm from Boston. Anyway, a friend
was in Europe a few years ago & he took a picture of a church in Straussburg
that has a huemungus (very large) stained glass window, have you ever seen
any of the works there?

Karin
 
You wrote:

>Hi everyone!
>
>I am a newbie as well (just about a year in Stained Glass) and live in
>Pittsburgh, PA. (Bethel Park).    Born in Cologne, Germany.  I put a couple
>of my projects onto my webpage below. Check it out!. 
>http://www.city-net.com/~dany/pictures.html#sunflower
>
>I am enjoying this list very much!  Thanks to everyone!
>
>Dany
>
>
>Daniela Birkelbach
>Software Consultant
>dany@city-net.com             http://www.city-net.com/~dany
>***********************************************************************
>"640K ought to be enough for anybody."
>     -- Bill Gates, 1981
>
>
>----
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>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
>

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From owner-glass Tue Nov 25 02:39:13 1997
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X-Path: worldnet.att.net!ElsieTurqman
From: Elsie Turqman <ElsieTurqman@worldnet.att.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Homasote board UPDATE
Date: Tue, 25 Nov 1997 10:38:11 +0000
Message-ID: <1997Nov25.103811.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Its grey, about 12/ to 3/4 inch thick and looks like compress paper.

At 06:49 PM 11/24/97 +0000, you wrote:
>Ok thankyou everyone, 
>but here is my update... called Homasote in NJ asked them where locally I
>could purchase a sheet...Hmmm I also asked what the uses of Homasote were so
>that I could give a more accurate discription of what I needed... they said
>it has many uses... but they did tell me that it is made out of recycled
>newspaper.  they gave me a # in Austin  (5hours away) Zimmermans... who gave
>me 3 locations in Houston (3hours away) Camerons, Warehouser, and Builders
>Square.  Ok so the next trip to Houston will probably find me there.  
>BUT... I called back Home Depot and asked for them to do a product search, no
>luck asked if they had carpet board NOPE.
>Called many acoustic places , one actually knew what it was, and finally got
>a small lumber yard to check about special order... He wanted to know what
>size I wanted and if I wanted it finished on one side or both sides or what
><ARG> like there is really that many choices.  Called him about an hour ago
>Hmm phone hasn't rung back yet.  If this stuff really does come in different
>finishes please let me know what I'm supposed to get.  This is like I'm on a
>mission now LOL
>deb
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>

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From owner-glass Tue Nov 25 03:31:11 1997
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X-Path: jackel.demon.co.uk!mike
From: Mike Simpson <mike@jackel.demon.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Filigree for Miniature Stained Glass Houses
Date: Tue, 25 Nov 1997 10:12:23 +0000 (GMT)
Message-ID: <199711251012.KAA00307@jackel.demon.co.uk>
References: <<1997Nov21.222822.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Dawn,
	I am sorry that I havn't replied earlier but my computer was under
the surgeons knife for a RAM transplant. I will answer your questions as
best I can
> 
> Mike,
> 
> Thank you for your instructions on making filigrees.  They were excellent=
> .  But, I have a few more questions because of my complete and total lack=
>  of knowledge in this area:
> 
> Can this process be done using another type of metal????  From 

With ferric chloride I think that you can etch most alloys containing a 
fair percentage of copper including copper itself, brass, bronze, german
silver and monel. It may also work with alloys containing tin or zinc but
I would not think that it will work with iron (and steel including tinplate)
or aluminium.

> messages I have read on bungi in the past,  my understanding is that 
> it's darn near impossible to patina brass with adequate results.  Would =

The normal method of patinaing brass it to tin it with solder first and
then to patina the tinned surface but I have found that brass can be patinaed
to give a hard blue/black finish using the normal "blackit" type patinas
by the following method.

Using a blowlamp, heat the brass to a dull red heat (as viewed in subdued
light) and allow it to cool until it is at a temperature where the patinaing 
solution will hiss when brushed on, this will give a patchy, powdery finish
of black and brown. Wash in cold water and wipe with a soft tissue. Reheat,
this time to just hot enough to cause the patina to hiss when applied. This
should give a nice and very robust finish.

Notes on this:
Do this only in a well ventilated place as the patinaing solution will throw
an aerosol containing copper and possibly selenium salts into the air. Also
be sure to position yourself away from fising fumes.

This works very well on the "bayonet" lampholders used in the U.K. but on
some older or cheaper types may cause the brass to soften unacceptably so
check for softening before patinaing a dozen of them.

If something patinaed by this method is soldered on and the soldered part
is patinaed there may be a silver or wbite line between the two types of
patina. For this reason it is best used for parts that are not intended to
be soldered on such as setatchable vase caps etc..

> some sort of sheets or cooper or tin work?  Anyone have any ideas on wher=
> e you would buy sheets?  Hardware stores???

In the U.K. the type of model/hobby shops that cater to the engineering
enthusiasts wil usualy keep a wide range of types.

> 
> Where do you purchase ferric chloride?  Photography supply store, hardwar=
> e supply store, electronic supply warehouses?

Electronic supply businesses which service the prototype and hobby end
of the market should have ferric chloride and als resist pens.


> 
> Also, my local Radio Shack had no idea what a Decon Dalo resist pen is? =
>  Is this something most electronic stores would carry?
> 
I have been told that the Steadler Lumocolor permanent 315 pen does a good 
job but have not tried it myself.


> Could I cover the front with the tape as well and just x-acto knife out =
> the intricate detail that I would want dissolved away?
> 
This rather depends on the tape but in principle it should work wuite well.
You could try cutting thin strips of parcel tape and appying them to the
surface making sure that there are no voids or bubbles under the tape. 
There are a number of the "rub-down" type of transfers that work well
including "Letraset" and ones that are made for printed circuit boards.

> Like I said, I'm completely clueless on this and really appreciate the =
> help.
> Dawn
> 
> ----

Best of luck with finding the ingredients,

Mike Simpson.

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From owner-glass Tue Nov 25 03:31:44 1997
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X-Path: vgernet.net!alewis
From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@vgernet.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Location
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@vgernet.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Nov 1997 06:39:20 +0000
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> Welcome Dany, I was originally from Germany also, Koblenz. Do you still
> speak the language ? I still do a little, however, with an English accent.
> Actually, people tell me that I sound like I'm from Boston. 

Sorry for butting in, but I had to laugh when you mentioned speaking 
German with a "Boston" accent.  I lived in Berlin for three years in 
the early 60s and used to just crack the Germans up by speaking 
German with a "Southern" or "Texas" accent.  They thought it was a 
stitch! <s>  I also had a number of people tell me to stop "faking" 
an American accent ... I guess I got pretty good at the language. 
(Well, I'd had three years of it before I went, then lived there for 
three years interacting very little with English speakers, so that'd 
be understandable, I guess.  T'was funny to have them tell me I was 
faking, though.)

Albert

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From owner-glass Tue Nov 25 04:31:02 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!IMN2GLASS2
From: IMN2GLASS2@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Location
Date: Tue, 25 Nov 1997 07:29:57 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov25.22957.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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In a message dated 97-11-25 02:40:14 EST, you write:

<< some get their Knickers in a Knot if there is too much reading to do. >>
                   IS THIS ANYTHING LIKE GETTING YOUR PANTIES IN A
TWIST????lol  This cracked me up! nice to hear how people from different
places 
have neat ways of putting things! Judy
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From owner-glass Tue Nov 25 06:31:58 1997
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X-Path: mfi.com!shaley
From: "Suzanne Haley"<shaley@mfi.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Re[2]: Homasote  Board--Home Depot SKU #98056 11005
Date: Tue, 25 Nov 97 06:31:55 -0800
Message-ID: <9711258804.AA880468336@sf-mail.mfi.com>
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     Home Depot SKU # is 98056 11005. Called HOMASOTE 440, 1/2" thick, 4' x 
     8".  Need a heavy duty cutter to cut.  Very dense. Cost $18.00+/-.
     
     As to your question re finished sides--they only had one type and it 
     works great. Suzanne Haley, Koi Glass Studio, Santa Rosa, CA


______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: Homasote board UPDATE 
Author:  <glass@bungi.com > at Internet
Date:    11/24/97 11:00 PM


DMR74@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Ok thankyou everyone,
> but here is my update... called Homasote in NJ asked them where locally I
> could purchase a sheet...Hmmm I also asked what the uses of Homasote were so 
> that I could give a more accurate discription of what I needed... they said 
> it has many uses... but they did tell me that it is made out of recycled
> newspaper.  they gave me a # in Austin  (5hours away) Zimmermans... who gave 
> me 3 locations in Houston (3hours away) Camerons, Warehouser, and Builders
> Square.  Ok so the next trip to Houston will probably find me there.
> BUT... I called back Home Depot and asked for them to do a product search, no 
> luck asked if they had carpet board NOPE.
> Called many acoustic places , one actually knew what it was, and finally got 

> a small lumber yard to check about special order... He wanted to know what 
> size I wanted and if I wanted it finished on one side or both sides or what 
> <ARG> like there is really that many choices.  Called him about an hour ago 
> Hmm phone hasn't rung back yet.  If this stuff really does come in different 
> finishes please let me know what I'm supposed to get.  This is like I'm on a 
> mission now LOL
> deb
> ----
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> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
     
Deb,
     
In case you have no luck, homasote board can be purchased by mail from 
the Stained Glass Workshop. Phone #800-669-7151. That's where I got 
mine.
     
Kathy
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From owner-glass Tue Nov 25 06:41:05 1997
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X-Path: mfi.com!shaley
From: "Suzanne Haley"<shaley@mfi.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Glass Expo   Who is going? Do you want bungi name card?
Date: Tue, 25 Nov 97 06:40:29 -0800
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     If you want a name card--please let me know the name or names and if a 
     shop name also, please provide.  ALSO YOU EMAIL ADDRESS if possible.
     
     Example:
     Suzanne Haley              George Haley
     KOI GLASS STUDI0           KOI GLASS STUDIO
     shaley@mfi.com             
     
     There is no charge--please make sure you plan going to the show.
     Thanks.  Suzanne
     
     


______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re[2]: Glass Expo   Who is going???? Get together??? 
Author:  <glass@bungi.com > at Internet
Date:    11/24/97 8:44 AM


     
     Glenna and Hilary,
     We will be going.  Offered earlier name tags with small bungi cord 
     (free) -- if you are going and want one (or anyone else) -- email me 
     at shaley@mfi.com and I will make one up for you.  Suzanne & George 
     Haley, KOI GLASS STUDIO, Santa Rosa, CA
     
     
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: Glass Expo 
Author:  <glass@bungi.com > at Internet 
Date:    11/24/97 10:35 AM
     
     
Hi, Glenna,
     
We are really going to try to go this year. It depends on whether my 
"day job" will let me have off the weekdays. It would really be great if 
all of us could get together for dinner or drinks or something!
     
Hilary
     
> I just got my catalogue for the Glass Craft Expo '98 in Las Vegas 
> March 12-15.  Anyone going?
----
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From owner-glass Tue Nov 25 06:42:42 1997
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X-Path: worldnet.att.net!summit-stained-glass
From: mike peck <summit-stained-glass@worldnet.att.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Frames ??
Date: Tue, 25 Nov 1997 08:44:33 -0600
Message-ID: <1997Nov25.24433.0>
References: <<199711241629.IAA24440@snowcrest.net>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Summit Stained Glass
Precedence: bulk

Paul Deutsch wrote:
> 
> Check with Mike Peck at Summit Stained Glass, I think the E address is
> summit-stained-glass@worldnet.att.net
> 
> At 07:25 AM 11/24/97 -0600, you wrote:
> >I know I could use some wood frames -- basic sizes in squares and
> >rectangles.  I'm working on a design for a medicine wheel though and
> >wonder if it's possible to get a round wood frame approximately 18" to
> >20" in diameter.  Definitely put me on your list of people to contact
> >when you start doing this.  Thanks!
> 


Well, of course, I've been following this whole "frame thread" with
self-served interest.  But I chose not to comment because I DO NOT think
we need to commercialize bungi.  We have a good flow of communciations
going on bungi and I hope that manufacturers can respect that, and can
keep their advertising to other media.

But, since my name has been mentioned, let me just say briefly that when
it all boils down to basic supply and demand ..... all customers really
want are three things ..... we want GOOD products, we want them FAST and
we want them CHEAP.  You can't have all three ....... think about it. 
It might be a GOOD product and it might be FAST, but it ain't going to
be CHEAP ...... it might be a CHEAP product and it might be FAST, but it
ain't going to be GOOD, it might be a GOOD product and it might be
CHEAP, but it ain't going to be FAST.

I know this old addage has been around for a while, just thought I'd
throw it out as a subtle reminder to those of us that forget once in a
while.

I think anyone with a tablesaw and a router can produce some pretty good
frame stock, but when the order quantities go up, your equipment needs
will go up, then you'll need a helper or two, your overhead goes up,
blah, blah, blah.  My advise is that if this guy down in Florida can
produce GOOD and CHEAP, buy it FAST.


Mike Peck
Summit Stained Glass
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From owner-glass Tue Nov 25 07:59:31 1997
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From: Dawn <dawnm@mail.fidnet.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; X-MAPIextension=".TXT"
Subject: Archives for the Months of September & October
Date: Tue, 25 Nov 97 10:01:51 PST
Message-ID: <1997Nov25.18151.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi Glenna,

I cannot locate the archives for the months of September & October.  When=
 I view the list of files, the  August messages are the last ones, other =
than the current diigest for the month of November.  It does not show any=
 text for the digest-9710 or digest-9711 files.  Have these just not been=
 posted yet, or do I need to look somewhere else for them?

Since I was not in touch with the group for some time I just wanted to =
scan them to gather all that wisdom that shot through the bandwidth in =
my absence.  Thanks!

Dawn

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From owner-glass Tue Nov 25 09:25:50 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!SGibson7
From: SGibson7@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: H. Rubin panel lamp shades direct
Date: Tue, 25 Nov 1997 12:24:52 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov25.72452.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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please send more info on your lamp shades
thanks
Sara Gibson
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From owner-glass Tue Nov 25 09:59:04 1997
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From: "jcampbell" <jcampbell@mfi.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1"; X-MAPIextension=".TXT"
Subject: Frames--Message from John West
Date: Tue, 25 Nov 97 13:45:30 PST
Message-ID: <1997Nov25.214530.0>
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Joh n just called me --his PC is ailing and so he will be down for a few =
days.  Anyone wanting to inquire or suggest sizes of frames they would =
be interested in can go ahead and post your messages to John and I will =
be his eyes and relay your message to him until he gets back on the air.

jcampbell

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From owner-glass Tue Nov 25 10:31:29 1997
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X-Path: vdot.net!shyguy
From: Kilgore Trout <shyguy@vdot.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Location
Date: Tue, 25 Nov 1997 13:21:36 -0800
Message-ID: <1997Nov25.52136.0>
References: <<1997Nov24.93449.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Cats Cradle Inc
Precedence: bulk

DMR74@aol.com wrote:

> been here 16 years but am originally from LI NY (lived there 20 years
> and
> been many other places in between.

You should spell it out for those who know it Lawn Guyland (where I live
now, origininally a City boy from the lower East side). Where on Lawn
Guyland?

--
'Every (person) must decide whether to walk in the light of creative
altruism or the darkness of selfishness. This is the judgement. Life's
most persistent and urgent question is "What are you doing for
others?'"Rev. Dr. Martin Luther King Jr.


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From owner-glass Tue Nov 25 11:47:44 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!TifStyOrig
From: TifStyOrig@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Success Stories
Date: Tue, 25 Nov 1997 14:44:15 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1997Nov25.94415.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

This group embodies such a wonderful array of glass artisans, with a world
full of experience and knowledge; I have a question, and would appreciate
hearing about your successful ventures.

I am an at-home mother who has quit the day job to be home with my child, AND
to direct my glass skills to an at-home/studio business.  I have done the
local craft show circuit, and have several of my larger pieces in a local
glass shop on consignment.

Here's my question:  For those of you who have developed an at-home/studio
glass business - how did you do it?

Specifically, besides owning a retail shop which is not in the cards right
now - what steps did you take to establish your glass business?  What worked
for you?  I would love to hear about your success story!  

Diane Manchester
Tiffany Styled Originals
Delray Beach, Florida

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From owner-glass Tue Nov 25 11:48:19 1997
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X-Path: city-net.com!dany
From: "Daniela Birkelbach" <dany@city-net.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Re: Location for Sandi
Date: Tue, 25 Nov 1997 14:36:24 -0500
Message-ID: <199711251939.OAA21821@dns.city-net.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Sandi,

which stores do you frequent?  I go  to Signature Glass in Peters Township
and Williams Stained Glass in Bethel.

Are there any in your part of town?

Dany

----------
> From: mindwarp <mindwarp@sgi.net>
> To: glass@bungi.com
> Subject: Re: Location
> Date: Sunday, November 23, 1997 10:50 PM
> 
> Daniela Birkelbach wrote:
> > 
> > Hi everyone!
> > 
> > I am a newbie as well (just about a year in Stained Glass) and live in
> > Pittsburgh, PA. (Bethel Park).    Born in Cologne, Germany.  I put a
couple
> > of my projects onto my webpage below. Check it out!.
> > http://www.city-net.com/~dany/pictures.html#sunflower
> > 
> > I am enjoying this list very much!  Thanks to everyone!
> > 
> > Dany
> > 
> 
> 
> I don't live too far from you Dany.... I live in Baldwin, 10 minutes
> from Century III Mall.
> 
> Sandi
> ;-)
> ----
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From owner-glass Tue Nov 25 11:48:54 1997
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From: "Daniela Birkelbach" <dany@city-net.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Re: Location for Karin
Date: Tue, 25 Nov 1997 14:39:48 -0500
Message-ID: <199711251939.OAA21827@dns.city-net.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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Karin,

ja, meine ganze Familie lebt noch in Koeln (Erftstadt).  To be nice, I'll
continue in English... It now comes a lot easier anyway.  I actually have
never been to Straussburg.  In fact, I didn't get into Stained Glass until
last year, and I've lived in the States for the last 10 years.  I get to
get to go back to visit my folks at least once a year.  How about you?  Do
you miss a good glass of Koelsch every now and then?

Dany

----------
> From: kmccullo@direct.ca
> To: glass@bungi.com
> Subject: Re: Location
> Date: Tuesday, November 25, 1997 2:45 AM
> 
> Welcome Dany, I was originally from Germany also, Koblenz. Do you still
> speak the language ? I still do a little, however, with an English
accent.
> Actually, people tell me that I sound like I'm from Boston. Anyway, a
friend
> was in Europe a few years ago & he took a picture of a church in
Straussburg
> that has a huemungus (very large) stained glass window, have you ever
seen
> any of the works there?
> 
> Karin
>  
> You wrote:
> 
> >Hi everyone!
> >
> >I am a newbie as well (just about a year in Stained Glass) and live in
> >Pittsburgh, PA. (Bethel Park).    Born in Cologne, Germany.  I put a
couple
> >of my projects onto my webpage below. Check it out!. 
> >http://www.city-net.com/~dany/pictures.html#sunflower
> >
> >I am enjoying this list very much!  Thanks to everyone!
> >
> >Dany
> >
> >
> >Daniela Birkelbach
> >Software Consultant
> >dany@city-net.com             http://www.city-net.com/~dany
> >***********************************************************************
> >"640K ought to be enough for anybody."
> >     -- Bill Gates, 1981
> >
> >
> >----
> >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> >To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> >
> >
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
----
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From owner-glass Tue Nov 25 12:02:18 1997
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From: dlr@bungi.com (Dave Rand)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Archives for the Months of September & October
Date: Tue, 25 Nov 1997 12:01:03 PST
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[In the message entitled "Archives for the Months of September & October" on Nov 25, 10:01, Dawn writes:]
> 
> I cannot locate the archives for the months of September & October.  When=
>  I view the list of files, the  August messages are the last ones, other =
> than the current diigest for the month of November.  It does not show any=
>  text for the digest-9710 or digest-9711 files.  Have these just not been=
>  posted yet, or do I need to look somewhere else for them?
> 

There was a glitch that prevented these from showing up.  I'll try to
put them back.


-- 
Dave Rand
dlr@bungi.com
http://www.bungi.com
----
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