From owner-glass Thu May  1 10:35:06 1997
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From: pom@netbistro.com (J. Smith)
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: soldering lessons
Date: Thu, 1 May 97 10:38 PDT
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Greetings to all ! How I admire all you talented and artistic peaple
out their!  Being a newcommer to stained glass, I  would like to learn
the proper methods of soldering. Iam not so fortunate as to have someone show
me first hand. I live in Prince George B.C Canada .
Which of the videos on soldering are the best teachers, I realize it
would take alot of practice as well!  Love stained glass so far as I
cant seem to read enough about the subject. Love all the comments from
all you bungi's. I know it will be a great learning experience .
Bye for now Jennifer         pom@netbistro.com

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From owner-glass Thu May  1 12:59:02 1997
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From: "Dave & Lynn Loda" <dloda@nwi.net>
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Subject: Re: soldering lessons
Date: Thu, 1 May 1997 13:00:47 -0700
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Hi Jennifer,

the best video I've seen for beginning soldering is Vicky Paines called I
believe the Art of Soldering.

Welcome to the world of Glass.  Have fun.

Dave Loda
Art Glass of Wenatchee 

----------
> From: J. Smith <pom@netbistro.com>
> To: glass@bungi.com
> Subject: soldering lessons
> Date: Thursday, May 01, 1997 10:00 AM
> 
> Greetings to all ! How I admire all you talented and artistic peaple
> out their!  Being a newcommer to stained glass, I  would like to learn
> the proper methods of soldering. Iam not so fortunate as to have someone
show
> me first hand. I live in Prince George B.C Canada .
> Which of the videos on soldering are the best teachers, I realize it
> would take alot of practice as well!  Love stained glass so far as I
> cant seem to read enough about the subject. Love all the comments from
> all you bungi's. I know it will be a great learning experience .
> Bye for now Jennifer         pom@netbistro.com
> 
> ----
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From owner-glass Fri May  2 05:22:02 1997
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From: artist@busprod.com (LJ Maas)
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Re: soldering lessons
Date: Fri, 02 May 1997 07:23:09 -0500
Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.19970502072309.006a82c0@busprod.com>
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>Being a newcomer to stained glass, I  would like to learn
>the proper methods of soldering. I am not so fortunate as to have someone
show
>me first hand. I live in Prince George B.C Canada .
>Which of the videos on soldering are the best teachers...

Jennifer...
Welcome to the world of glass...I hope you enjoy it as much as I do!

Do you have any glass shops, craft shops, or schools around you? I have to
say I've never viewed a video on soldering, but it only took a few moments
for a good teacher to "show" me her technique.

While I think there are a lot of decent videos available, it is so much
easier and faster to watch someone in person...ask a few pertinent
questions...and have them watch you at it. All of the above that I
mentioned would usually be more than happy to give you a start.
LJ
  ****************************************************************
LJ Maas: artist@busprod.com
ART WITH ATTITUDE Stained Glass Design
"Unique Stained Glass Creations"
<http://www.art-with-attitude.com/glass/artglass.html>

OVER THE RAINBOW Webpage Design & Consulting
<http://www.art-with-attitude.com/rainbow.html>
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From owner-glass Fri May  2 06:00:14 1997
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From: Richard LaVal <rlaval@sol.racsa.co.cr>
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Subject: Re: soldering lessons
Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 06:54:28 -0600 (CST)
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Hi Jennifer;
        I live in Costa Rica, and no one else does stained glass near to
me.... so I read books and tried and listened to conversations here, and
tried some more.  I think that I have it fairly well in hand now.... I would
think a video would be better than books, but not as good as a live
person... take heart it can be learned!!! Meg

At 10:38 AM 5/1/97 PDT, you wrote:
>Greetings to all ! How I admire all you talented and artistic peaple
>out their!  Being a newcommer to stained glass, I  would like to learn
>the proper methods of soldering. Iam not so fortunate as to have someone show
>me first hand. I live in Prince George B.C Canada .
>Which of the videos on soldering are the best teachers, I realize it
>would take alot of practice as well!  Love stained glass so far as I
>cant seem to read enough about the subject. Love all the comments from
>all you bungi's. I know it will be a great learning experience .
>Bye for now Jennifer         pom@netbistro.com
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
>
Richard and Meg LaVal
apdo. 24-5655
Monteverde
COSTA RICA
tel: 506 645 5052

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From owner-glass Fri May  2 06:26:49 1997
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Subject: soldering lessons
Date: Fri, 02 May 1997 09:28:45 -0700
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Organization: The Craft Nook, Inc.
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We use the Glass Giraffe Soldering Video in all our Basic classes..We
realy like these..You can contact them at.
http://www.glassgiraffe.com.
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From owner-glass Fri May  2 16:17:36 1997
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Subject: RE: German pattern shears
Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 18:14:33 -0500
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About 10 days ago somebody inquired about a "german pattern shears".I tried to do some checking but need a bit more info to follow through.
Do you know a brand name? Anything that could help point us in the right direction would be helpful.......
I "lost" the original post.
Hope to hear from whom ever sent it in.
Regards.
Sue Reitmann

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From owner-glass Sat May  3 05:56:09 1997
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From: Mike  Peck <summit-stained-glass@worldnet.att.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Re: new hobbyist
Date: Sat, 3 May 1997 12:54:31 +0000
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>
>that's ok this is what i want to here. i rather find out now then later.
>mainly i need a cermic, or a light weight, fast heating iron. currently
>i have ungar if the tip goes bad the heater has to be replaced too. i
>need an iron that not only does the above requirments but also has
>seperate tips; small, large, etc. 
>
>anyone else had any luck with such an iron? it seems instaheat is junk,
>as told to by others.
>
>---Mike Savad
>


Mike,

I have had good luck with Weller 100W and with Hakkos.  I don't even carry
the Inland line of irons in my store anymore because too many were being
returned.  Inland always worked very well with me to replace them defective
irons, but there were so many problems .......  BTW Inland can be reached at
1-800-521-8428, ask for Customer Service.

The Hakko 60W Super Pro has a ceramic heating tip so it works off a
rheostat.  It heats up quickly, holds a constant temp for hours on end, has
a good ergonomic feel, it's light, and it's dependable ...... and it's
priced retail around $45.  I put Hakkos and Wellers out for students to use
and more of them will migrate toward the Hakkos than the Wellers.

Hope this helps.


Mike Peck
Summit Stained Glass

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From owner-glass Sat May  3 06:00:12 1997
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From: Mike  Peck <summit-stained-glass@worldnet.att.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Re: slides of American stained glass
Date: Sat, 3 May 1997 12:59:12 +0000
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>Those slides are mostly of contemporary glass. Julie Sloan's thinking 
>of putting some of her thousands of slides into purchaseable sets, as 
>well. Hers are exclusively of stained glass created during the late 
>1800s and early 1900s in the U.S., although she has presented slide 
>shows of stained glass from the past 1,000 years. Would there be any 
>interest in sets of slides like that?
>
>Albert


Albert,  I might be interested in a compilation of these slides.  Please be
sure to announce their availability!

Mike Peck
Summit Stained Glass

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From owner-glass Sat May  3 06:45:17 1997
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From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@computer.net>
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Subject: Re: slides of American stained glass
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@computer.net>
Date: Sat, 3 May 1997 09:51:11 +0000
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> >interest in sets of slides like that?
> 
> Albert,  I might be interested in a compilation of these slides.  Please be
> sure to announce their availability!

Oh, you bet. <s> Thanks for your input.

Albert

Albert Lewis, Executive Director
International Guild of Glass Artists
A 501(c)(6) nonprofit organization
Tonetta Lake Road, Brewster NY 10509
(914) 278-2152   Fax: (914) 278-2481
_________________________________________________________
http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/ [home page]
http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/guide.htm [Sources Guide]
http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/links.htm [Members' Work]

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From owner-glass Sat May  3 08:07:44 1997
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Subject: Re: slides of American stained glass
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> >interest in sets of slides like that?
> 
> Albert,  I might be interested in a compilation of these slides.  Please be
> sure to announce their availability!

Oh, you bet. <s> Thanks for your input.

Albert

Albert Lewis, Executive Director
International Guild of Glass Artists
A 501(c)(6) nonprofit organization
Tonetta Lake Road, Brewster NY 10509
(914) 278-2152   Fax: (914) 278-2481
_________________________________________________________
http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/ [home page]
http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/guide.htm [Sources Guide]
http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/links.htm [Members' Work]

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From owner-glass Sat May  3 08:33:58 1997
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From: artglass@water.waterw.com (pj friend)
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Subject: Re: slides of American stained glass
Date: Sat, 3 May 1997 10:06:27 -0400 (EDT)
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Albert wrote,
>
>
>>Those slides are mostly of contemporary glass. Julie Sloan's thinking 
>>of putting some of her thousands of slides into purchaseable sets, as 
>>well. Hers are exclusively of stained glass created during the late 
>>1800s and early 1900s in the U.S., although she has presented slide 
>>shows of stained glass from the past 1,000 years. Would there be any 
>>interest in sets of slides like that?


Put us on your list....wow all those slides in one place.  You mean I won't
have to hunt for slides anymore????  



my best,
pj

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From owner-glass Sat May  3 08:56:11 1997
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Subject: Re: slides of American stained glass
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@computer.net>
Date: Sat, 3 May 1997 12:01:54 +0000
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> Put us on your list....wow all those slides in one place.  You mean I won't
> have to hunt for slides anymore???? 

You're on the list, pj. By the way, I'm sorry I haven't answered your 
question of the other day about where Julie's next lecturing, since 
you said you'd like to attend. Unfortunately, she just completed a 
string of lectures at the Queens Museum and other points around New 
York City. Wore her to a frazzle, you bet; she puts a lot of time and 
energy into preparing those. But the next one's scheduled for 
September in Buffalo, NY. Too bad it's so far away, but Buffalo's a 
nice town ... great chicken wings, I hear, so perhaps you and Paul 
will make the trip after all. <g>

She's lecturing next year in England and Scotland, which might be 
an even *more interesting trip for you. Leading a tour of British 
Arts&Crafts stained glass in July, lecturing beforehand near 
Edinburgh in May.

Albert

Albert Lewis, Executive Director
International Guild of Glass Artists
A 501(c)(6) nonprofit organization
Tonetta Lake Road, Brewster NY 10509
(914) 278-2152   Fax: (914) 278-2481
_________________________________________________________
http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/ [home page]
http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/guide.htm [Sources Guide]
http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/links.htm [Members' Work]

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From owner-glass Sat May  3 12:03:10 1997
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From: ItsAlison@aol.com
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Subject: Re: new hobbyist
Date: Sat, 3 May 1997 15:02:14 -0400 (EDT)
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Mike,
     I really like my Insta-Heat iron....I believe it is a ceramic iron.  It
heats up quiclky and you can interchange  soldering tips.
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From owner-glass Sat May  3 14:16:23 1997
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Subject: How to for wiring lamps, etc.
Date: Sat, 03 May 1997 17:16:16 -0400
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Hello, all,

Does anyone have any suggestions on books or web sites for lamp making ...
I mean the stuff other than the stained glass part?  I'd also be grateful
for any information on suppliers of parts ... on the web or off. 

Thanks in advance for your help! 

:D

M.-J.

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From owner-glass Sun May  4 07:12:23 1997
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To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Re: How to for wiring lamps, etc.
Date: Sun, 04 May 1997 10:07:54 -0400
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Hi M. J.
Try the suppliers links at 
http://www.artglassworld.com/Welcome.html
or
http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/guide.htm
or IGGA suppliers
Both Glass Crafters in Sarasota, and Delphi have complete lines of lamp
components in their catalogs.  If you haven't gone home  the Keys yet,
stop by Glass Crafters and pick some up on your way home.  The kits
(lamp parts, components) have complete instructions with them for wiring
etc.  Also if there is a "Home Depot" or "Lowes" anywhere near you, they
have complete lamp parts supplies too. If you decide to head for
Sarasota, e-mail me privately and we'll get together for lunch or dinner
while you are here.  Love to talk some 'glass' with you.

Lee  Boe
Rain-Boe's Creations

M.-J. wrote:
> 
> Hello, all,
> 
> Does anyone have any suggestions on books or web sites for lamp making ...
> I mean the stuff other than the stained glass part?  I'd also be grateful
> for any information on suppliers of parts ... on the web or off.
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From owner-glass Sun May  4 07:18:24 1997
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Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Where is everybody??? Plastic Came-----
Date: Sun, 04 May 1997 10:13:59 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May4.61359.0>
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This is the most quiet I've seen the bungi group in a long time-so here
is a 'spanner' in the works.  Last issue of Glass Patterns Quarterly had
an article with instr. and pics on using the new "plastic came",  has
anyone actually tried this stuff???  What kinds of projects ( other than
the box shown) might it be useful for???? No, I don't like the idea of
panels or windows done with it, but what about 'suncatchers' (no
soldering) boxes (shown), other 3D work???  Anyone on the list tried
it???  

That ought to get some discussion going.---

Lee Boe
Rain-Boe's Creations
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From owner-glass Sun May  4 07:36:40 1997
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From: wmunro@mars.ark.com (Wayne Munro)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: German Pattern Shears/Bird Pattern
Date: Sun, 4 May 1997 07:36:06 -0700
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>Howdy ... I don't recall the original post requesting these but I would try
"The Glass Place--Montreal, Canada  Phone & Fax-- 1-800-363-7855. They have
a number of shears listed, so maybe thats there.

> Also, I am looking for a fairly large (18x24)? or so 'Eagle or Owl'
showing both wings or just 1 from the side,  Pattern.

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From owner-glass Sun May  4 08:14:26 1997
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Re: Where is everybody??? Plastic Came-----
Date: Sun, 04 May 1997 11:10:43 -0400
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leestat7 wrote:
> 
> This is the most quiet I've seen the bungi group in a long time-so here
> is a 'spanner' in the works.  Last issue of Glass Patterns Quarterly had
> an article with instr. and pics on using the new "plastic came",  has
> anyone actually tried this stuff???  What kinds of projects ( other than
> the box shown) might it be useful for???? No, I don't like the idea of
> panels or windows done with it, but what about 'suncatchers' (no
> soldering) boxes (shown), other 3D work???  Anyone on the list tried
> it???
> 
> That ought to get some discussion going.---
> 
> Lee Boe
> Rain-Boe's Creations
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

i personally can't see it as being very strong. horizontally  it should
be strong enough, but vertically i can just see it now; the piece sags,
and all the pieces fall out. i guess it's good for beginners, and of
course it does come in a bunch of colors. 

anyway, soon i'll be done with my current project, it's 95% done, today
i have to make the lids. it came out just about exactly to plan about
95% of it. and after it's done, i have a mess of pages to make and put
up.. but of course that'll be announced later on.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141

New Pages Added:

 - New Instructional Guides Added!!!
 - The Creative Process
 - How to Find Patterns for Suncatchers
 - Picking Out Glass in the Store

 - Plus New Photos
 - 5 New Pictures in the 3-D Catagory
 - 2 New Pictures in the Panel Catagory
 - Updated Shots of The Heart of Atlantis, and Japanese Garden

 - But That's Not All!!!
 - My Links Page is UP!
 - And Awards Page Too
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From owner-glass Sun May  4 09:01:17 1997
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From: StndGlass1@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: How to for wiring lamps, etc.
Date: Sun, 4 May 1997 12:00:10 -0400 (EDT)
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In a message dated 97-05-03 17:18:44 EDT, you write:

<< Does anyone have any suggestions on books or web sites for lamp making >>

We carry a book by Joe Porcelli called "The Lampmaking Handbook" (BK340
$23.70).  In my opinion, if you are looking to make a Tiffany style lamp,
this is the best reference book out there!

Jenna Meredith
Meredith Stained Glass Center
www.meredithglass.com
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From owner-glass Sun May  4 09:06:23 1997
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From: StndGlass1@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Where is everybody??? Plastic Came-----
Date: Sun, 4 May 1997 12:05:08 -0400 (EDT)
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In a message dated 97-05-04 11:16:16 EDT, you write:

<< i personally can't see it as being very strong. horizontally  it should
 be strong enough, but vertically i can just see it now; the piece sags,
 and all the pieces fall out. i guess it's good for beginners, and of
 course it does come in a bunch of colors.  >>


It's not too bad actually.  My concerns were originally the same as yours,
but we got our distributors sample not to long ago, and it has a metal core
in it, which adds quite a bit of strength.  

I can see the plastic came having some beginner hobbyist applications, but
for my personal 2 cents worth, I don't think I will be working with it.  The
add shows a full array of colors as well.  Currently, I believe they said it
is only available in white and grey, the other colors of the rainbow soon to
follow.

Jenna Meredith
Meredith Stained Glass
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From owner-glass Sun May  4 10:06:33 1997
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From: "Michael J. Greer" <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: All <GLASS@BUNGI.COM>
Subject: Pattern shears
Date: Sun, 4 May 1997 13:04:19 -0400
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Hi Sue-

Glad to get some bungi mail - I was starting to go into withdrawal!  

I am looking for the West German pattern shears. Have tried all the
wholesalers including Bendheim and no luck - I don't think anybody carries
them anymore.   I'm hoping that somebody in the group has an old pair
stuffed in a drawer somewhere, or a European member might be able to give
me some tips on where to acquire a pair.  Thanks and I'm keeping my fingers
crossed!

Best regards,

Dani Greer
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From owner-glass Sun May  4 11:04:40 1997
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From: ItsAlison@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Where is everybody??? Plastic Came-----
Date: Sun, 4 May 1997 14:03:31 -0400 (EDT)
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Lee,
   I just picked up the Spring issue of Glass Patterns Quarterly last week. I
saw an ad for the  plastic came in the front of the magazine, but no article
with instructions for how to use it.  I am very interested ....if anyone out
there has used it or seen it demonstrated, let's start a discussion. I'd
really like to try it!  I'm interested in anything new out there thats on the
leading edge!  What issue contained the article on using it, Lee?  I'd like
to locate that issue.

                        Alison
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From owner-glass Sun May  4 11:13:37 1997
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From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@computer.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Where is everybody??? Plastic Came-----
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@computer.net>
Date: Sun, 4 May 1997 14:19:44 +0000
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> I can see the plastic came having some beginner hobbyist applications, but
> for my personal 2 cents worth, I don't think I will be working with it.  The
> add shows a full array of colors as well. 

I'm sorry ... plastic came? In an array of colors? Eeeyeuw!

Albert Lewis, Executive Director
International Guild of Glass Artists
A 501(c)(6) nonprofit organization
Tonetta Lake Road, Brewster NY 10509
(914) 278-2152   Fax: (914) 278-2481
_________________________________________________________
http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/ [home page]
http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/guide.htm [Sources Guide]
http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/links.htm [Members' Work]

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From owner-glass Sun May  4 11:32:11 1997
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From: suzanne albright <suzy@ComCAT.COM>
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Subject: Re: Where is everybody??? Plastic Came-----
Date: Sun, 4 May 97 14:33:43 -0400
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>I saw an ad for the  plastic came in the front of the magazine, but no
>article with instructions for how to use it.  I'm interested in anything new
>out there thats on the leading edge!

"leading edge" surely you jest. Sorry, couldn't resist!




suzanne albright<suzy@comcat.com>

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From owner-glass Sun May  4 11:40:19 1997
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From: Mark Wallace <erainbow2@pipeline.com>
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Subject: Re: pouring concrete:
Date: Sun, 4 May 1997 14:36:40 -0400 (EDT)
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 I've been reading a lot lately about "pouring cement" around a stepping
stone to incorporate it into a concrete slab.  This should not be a problem
if a few precautions are taken.  I'm assuming now that your stepping stone
is actually made of concrete and glass.  Note I said "concrete."  

If we're going to discuss this intelligently we should all understand the
terms. 

Cement is the powder you buy in a bag to mix with water to form a
cement/water paste.  This cement/water paste is the "glue" that holds
concrete together.

Concrete is the mixture of cement, water, sand, and gravel.  The sand and
gravel are simply cheap filler materials used to produce volume because
cement is very expensive compared to them. Notice that water is a necessary
ingredient.  It reacts chemically with the cement to make the "glue."

I'm also going to assume that your slab will be thicker than the stone.  You
can get your stepping stone to bond to the slab simply by soaking your stone
in water (for about an hour) before setting it in the slab concrete.  This
will prevent the stepping stone from absorbing the needed moisture from the
wet slab concrete and thus not permitting a zone of it to cure properly.
Will the slab concrete stick to the stepping stone?  Of course it will.
Look at all the rocks in the concrete.  Your stepping stone is just another
rock with a flat surface having some glass attached to it.  You will form an
incredibly tight bond along the sides and the bottom.  Will it pop out?
Only if the whole slab does.  It will go with it.

Just for information, some weeks ago I read a post where someone was talking
about the mortar (cement, fine sand, and water) not having as much strength
as concrete.  Not true. The cement/water paste that coats the surfaces of
all the sand particles and all the rocks is a lot stronger than the rocks.
If you ever look at a broken section of concrete slab, you will find (in
properly mixed concrete) that the rocks fractured through and did not pull
out of the cement/water paste.

I hope this helped somewhat. If you're wondering where I came up with all
this stuff it's because I'm a civil engineer.  We had to know a little about
concrete to graduate.  

One more pet peeve I have.  I keep reading books on stepping stones telling
you to put your reinforcement in the middle of the stone.  Bunk!  The
purpose of steel reinforcing bars in concrete is to carry tension loads
caused by the bending of the beam or slab. When a beam which is supported at
both ends is loaded midway between the supports, the beam bends down in the
middle.  The top of the beam is in compression (for which concrete is a
great material) while the bottom of the beam is in tension (for which
concrete isn't worth a hoot).  Thus the steel reinforcing bars are put close
to the bottom of the beam to carry the tension loads and to prevent the
concrete from cracking.  What's absurd about putting any reinforcement at
the middle of the beam is that the stress at the middle of the beam is zero.
It's the point where the stress changes from compression to tension.  If
your stone can be bent in the other direction (ie where the top is in
tension and the bottom is in compression) such as when an edge of the stone
sticks out beyond a support surface, it would be a good idea to add a layer
of reinforcement just underneath the glass too.

If you have any questions, feel free to ask.

Mark

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From owner-glass Sun May  4 11:42:07 1997
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From: leestat7 <leestat7@home.com>
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Subject: Re: Where is everybody??? Plastic Came-----
Date: Sun, 04 May 1997 14:37:37 -0400
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ItsAlison@aol.com wrote:
> 
Hi,

It is the spring issue, page 89-Jewelry Box Lid.  Instructions are
pretty complete.  In this use, white came was used-with White
Opalescent, #18S glass.  All in a pre-made Oak Box.  It actually looks
quite nice, in this instance.  The ad is page-6 same issue.

But I figured this is 'unusual' and 'controversial' enough to get some
comments going.  In a window or a 'panel' I don't think I would care for
it, prefering the more traditional lead or copper foil.  Which I think
would be stronger. But perhaps in some 3D work, suncatchers, and to be
unusual with lots of colors???????????/  Also, no worry with corrosion
of lead or copper foil lines?????????????????????????/
 Lee Boe

Rain-Boe's Creations

>Lee,
>    I just picked up the Spring issue of Glass Patterns Quarterly last week. I saw an ad for the  plastic came in the front of the magazine,  What issue contained the article on using it, Lee?  I'd like
> to locate that issue.
<snip>
> I am very interested ....if anyone out
> there has used it or seen it demonstrated, let's start a discussion. I'd
> really like to try it!  I'm interested in anything new out there thats on the
> leading edge!
>    Alison
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From owner-glass Sun May  4 12:18:38 1997
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From: suzanne albright <suzy@ComCAT.COM>
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Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: German Pattern Shears/Bird Pattern
Date: Sun, 4 May 97 15:20:16 -0400
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>> Also, I am looking for a fairly large (18x24)? or so 'Eagle or Owl'
>showing both wings or just 1 from the side,  Pattern.

Wayne, I did a quick look through my pattern books. Maybe one of these 
will help:

1. Judy Miller, House Tours, p. 78 Eagle
2. Mark & Susan Walton, 200 Design Ideas for Stained Glass, several 
eagles, one full-size at back of book inside an oval
3. Carolyn Relei, Bird Designs, Owl p. 30, Eagle p. 28,    
4. Judy Miller, Birds & Flowers, Owl p. 78
5. Allen Kenoyer Glass, Pattern Book 3, Eagle p. 35
6. Judy Miller, House Tours International, Eagle p. 97 
7. Art Glass Images, Thomas Morin,II, Owls p. 63 & 41, Eagles p. 38 & 39
8. Judy Miller, House Tours II, Eagle p. 40 
9. Gloria Fohr, Southwest Expressions, Eagle p.44
and last, but not least,
10. Renee Martig, Inspired by Nature, 3 Owls p.49, Owl p.40, Eagles p.12 
& 13


>----
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>


suzanne albright<suzy@comcat.com>

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From owner-glass Sun May  4 14:00:47 1997
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From: leestat7 <leestat7@home.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Bird Pattern
Date: Sun, 04 May 1997 16:56:39 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May4.125639.0>
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Thanks Suzanne,

I did not ask originally, but was needing some "bird" patterns for work
for one of the Wildlife Rehab stations here. Does anyone have any
suggestions not listed below for "Water or Wading Birds" ?????
BTW-the large panel "study in Blue' I am working on is a abstract
pattern by Allen Kenoyer

Lee  Boe
Rain-Boe's Creations

suzanne albright wrote:

> 1. Judy Miller, House Tours, p. 78 Eagle
> 2. Mark & Susan Walton, 200 Design Ideas for Stained Glass, several
> eagles, one full-size at back of book inside an oval
> 3. Carolyn Relei, Bird Designs, Owl p. 30, Eagle p. 28,
> 4. Judy Miller, Birds & Flowers, Owl p. 78
> 5. Allen Kenoyer Glass, Pattern Book 3, Eagle p. 35
> 6. Judy Miller, House Tours International, Eagle p. 97
> 7. Art Glass Images, Thomas Morin,II, Owls p. 63 & 41, Eagles p. 38 & 39
> 8. Judy Miller, House Tours II, Eagle p. 40
> 9. Gloria Fohr, Southwest Expressions, Eagle p.44
> and last, but not least,
> 10. Renee Martig, Inspired by Nature, 3 Owls p.49, Owl p.40, Eagles p.12
> & 13
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From owner-glass Sun May  4 14:18:13 1997
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From: "Michael J. Greer" <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: "INTERNET:glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: Where is everybody??? Plastic Came-----
Date: Sun, 4 May 1997 17:16:49 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May4.131649.0>
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Amen, Albert!  Sounds pretty yucky to me, too.  Michael's comment was " the
overlay people might go for it, but then again, it would probably be too
much work them".  I don't think this studio will be trying it anytime real
soon.

Best regards,

Dani Greer
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From owner-glass Sun May  4 14:30:47 1997
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From: artglass@water.waterw.com (pj friend)
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Re: Where is everybody??? Plastic Came-----
Date: Sun, 4 May 1997 17:30:20 -0400 (EDT)
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Albert wrote,
>

>
>I'm sorry ... plastic came? In an array of colors? Eeeyeuw!

I really wanted to order the pink....do you think it comes in pink??? That
happens to be my fav. color.  
>
>Albert Lewis, Executive Director
>International Guild of Glass Artists
>A 501(c)(6) nonprofit organization
>Tonetta Lake Road, Brewster NY 10509
>(914) 278-2152   Fax: (914) 278-2481
>_________________________________________________________
>http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/ [home page]
>http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/guide.htm [Sources Guide]
>http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/links.htm [Members' Work]
>
>----
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>
>

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From owner-glass Sun May  4 14:38:21 1997
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To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Where is everybody??? Plastic Came-----
Date: Sun, 4 May 1997 17:38:00 -0400 (EDT)
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>HI Albert,

>
>I'm sorry ... plastic came? In an array of colors? Eeeyeuw!
>

I'll bet Julie loves this one!!! Can you imagine, restorations in colored
came????

Or how about "lets repair those "Rose Windows" with some of that new plastic
came?"

What will they think of next????

Lead free lead??? Or how about Historic decals?"You too can create great
commission using our wonderful handpainted decals."
  Or maybe Stained Glass Overlay (oops sorry thats been done). Shrinky Dinks
for big bucks!!!


my best, (and sarcastic)
pj


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From: artglass@water.waterw.com (pj friend)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Where is everybody??? Plastic Came-----
Date: Sun, 4 May 1997 17:41:56 -0400 (EDT)
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Dani wrote,

>Amen, Albert!  Sounds pretty yucky to me, too.  Michael's comment was " the
>overlay people might go for it, but then again, it would probably be too
>much work them".  I don't think this studio will be trying it anytime real
>soon.
>
Do overlay people know how to do lead????? I tend to agree with Michael, way
to much work.  And all those little piece of GLASS!!!! 

(Sorry I couldn't resist)  Our local overlay person acutally lies to his
clients.....and I happily tell them the truth!!!  In fact we keep a panel
right here in the studio and SHOW everyone how easy the stuff comes apart.


my best,
pj ( must be the paint fumes getting to me)

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From owner-glass Sun May  4 15:24:23 1997
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From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@computer.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Where is everybody??? Plastic Came-----
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@computer.net>
Date: Sun, 4 May 1997 18:31:09 +0000
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> >" the
> >overlay people might go for it, but then again, it would probably be too
> >much work them".  I don't think this studio will be trying it anytime real
> >soon.

I missed that one. Fell onto the floor, laughing. <g>

> clients.....and I happily tell them the truth!!!  In fact we keep a panel
> right here in the studio and SHOW everyone how easy the stuff comes apart.

Oy! Don't get me started on SGO. They get way too defensive and have 
far too many attorneys.

Albert Lewis, Executive Director
International Guild of Glass Artists
A 501(c)(6) nonprofit organization
Tonetta Lake Road, Brewster NY 10509
(914) 278-2152   Fax: (914) 278-2481
_________________________________________________________
http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/ [home page]
http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/guide.htm [Sources Guide]
http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/links.htm [Members' Work]

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From owner-glass Sun May  4 15:41:17 1997
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Where is everybody??? Plastic Came-----
Date: Sun, 04 May 1997 18:38:42 -0400
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Albert Lewis wrote:
> 
> > I can see the plastic came having some beginner hobbyist applications, but
> > for my personal 2 cents worth, I don't think I will be working with it.  The
> > add shows a full array of colors as well.
> 
> I'm sorry ... plastic came? In an array of colors? Eeeyeuw!
> 
> Albert Lewis, Executive Director
> International Guild of Glass Artists
> A 501(c)(6) nonprofit organization
> Tonetta Lake Road, Brewster NY 10509
> (914) 278-2152   Fax: (914) 278-2481
> _________________________________________________________
> http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/ [home page]
> http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/guide.htm [Sources Guide]
> http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/links.htm [Members' Work]
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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well, it may not have the applications for say a church or something.
but i can see it being used in an architecutal sense, i've seen a alot
of weird things put together. and i guess some suncatchers. though if
used like that a good selling pint would be that it has no lead in it at
all. and as long as you welded the joints tight, it should hold up...but
as for me i'll stick with the foil...

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141

New Pages Added:

 - New Instructional Guides Added!!!
 - The Creative Process
 - How to Find Patterns for Suncatchers
 - Picking Out Glass in the Store

 - Plus New Photos
 - 5 New Pictures in the 3-D Catagory
 - 2 New Pictures in the Panel Catagory
 - Updated Shots of The Heart of Atlantis, and Japanese Garden

 - But That's Not All!!!
 - My Links Page is UP!
 - And Awards Page Too
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From owner-glass Sun May  4 15:59:57 1997
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To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Where is everybody??? Plastic Came-----
Date: Sun, 04 May 1997 18:55:55 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May4.145555.0>
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Organization: @Home Network
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Hi pj,

My thoughts exactly, ;-) but it got everyone chatting again :), However
for small unusual projects, it might have a place (in colors no less) 
Everyone look at the ad page 6 Spring Issue-Glass Patterns Quarterly,
and the project-Jewelry Box Lid page 89.  Design by Mark Waterbury,
Fabrication by Dave Burnett, Text by Marilyn Bryan.

SGO I have seen a couple of years after application,
yuuuukkkkkkyyyyy!!!!!!!!!

Anyway, since a lot of "hobbyist's" (in the best sense, not being
derogatory) (and many of our bungi members think of themselves as
hobbiest') see Glass Patterns Quarterly, Studios and Stores are going to
have questions on 'Plastic Came'. 

Lee Boe
Rain-Boe's Creations

pj wrote:
> I'll bet Julie loves this one!!! Can you imagine, restorations in colored
> came????
> 
> Or how about "lets repair those "Rose Windows" with some of that new plastic
> came?"
> 
> What will they think of next????
> 
> Lead free lead??? Or how about Historic decals?"You too can create great
> commission using our wonderful handpainted decals."
>   Or maybe Stained Glass Overlay (oops sorry thats been done). Shrinky Dinks
> for big bucks!!!
> 
> my best, (and sarcastic)
> pj
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From owner-glass Sun May  4 16:41:33 1997
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re:  Plastic Came-----hand-painted polka dots!
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@mail.nildram.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 4 May 1997 23:48:35 +0000
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Hi Albert, PJ, Dani et al,
Naahhh!
I'll go for the pink ones with red polka-dots, to create those happy 
personal touches in the village church restoration window!
Would sort of go nicely with the latest current affairs here in UK, 
where the fashion colour has turned rose-red and the fashion flower 
of today a red rose and where we have all  "seen red" from the last 6 
weeks election campaigns. New kid on the block! So pink plastic came 
with red polka dots for me please!!!
Lee - you get the "wooden spoon" prize!!!! Do you have that concept 
Across The Pond?? (How COULD you...? I am ashamed of you   ;-)
Tomorrow (Monday) is a bank holiday here, no computer college for me, 
no post, no customers, no phones. It will give me chance to catch up 
on lots of mail, replies and thank-you notes; looking at brochures 
from Sarasota, copperfoil curriculum and making the penultimate 
"push" to finishing the double panels for  the Methodist Church, 
before the 82-year old "girl" blows her top.
PLASTIC came! I ask you! What is the world coming to??
Elisabeth 'n Toby

You wrote:
... plastic came? In an array of colors? Eeeyeuw!

I'll bet Julie loves this one!!! Can you imagine, restorations in colored
came????

Or how about "lets repair those "Rose Windows" with some of that new plastic
came?"

What will they think of next????

Lead free lead??? Or how about Historic decals?"You too can create great
commission using our wonderful handpainted decals."
  Or maybe Stained Glass Overlay (oops sorry thats been done). Shrinky Dinks
for big bucks!!!


----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
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From owner-glass Sun May  4 16:42:08 1997
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
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Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Pattern Shears
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Date: Sun, 4 May 1997 23:48:35 +0000
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Sue Reitmann,
Thought that I would obviously be fairly close to the German source 
here, so have been looking through  all and everything to try and find out out 
the German manufacturer. What do I find? Pattern shears we get over 
here come from "Inland", so no use to you. On the other hand, as you 
are perhaps aware, pattern shears are not much used on the whole, as 
we tend to cut glass "The English Method"    ;-)
I did try  - sorry  :-(
Elisabeth 'n Toby
----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
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From owner-glass Sun May  4 16:51:48 1997
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From: artglass@water.waterw.com (pj friend)
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Re: Where is everybody??? Plastic Came-----
Date: Sun, 4 May 1997 19:51:31 -0400 (EDT)
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Mike wrote,

>
>well, it may not have the applications for say a church or something.
>but i can see it being used in an architecutal sense, i've seen a alot
>of weird things put together. and i guess some suncatchers. though if
>used like that a good selling pint would be that it has no lead in it at
>all. and as long as you welded the joints tight, it should hold up...but
>as for me i'll stick with the foil...
>
Well the enviornmentialist should love it......and those who think that the
lead should be taken out of lead, should love it.  Just think you could
market it as "child proof".  Lead-free suncatchers.......even your children
will be safe. 

And Mike, when they take the lead out of solder and make plastic
solder...what then???
(Only teasing...the coffee is kicking in).

pj

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From owner-glass Sun May  4 17:04:29 1997
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Where is everybody??? Plastic Came-----
Date: Sun, 04 May 1997 20:01:58 -0400
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pj friend wrote:
> 
> Mike wrote,
> 
> >
> >well, it may not have the applications for say a church or something.
> >but i can see it being used in an architecutal sense, i've seen a alot
> >of weird things put together. and i guess some suncatchers. though if
> >used like that a good selling pint would be that it has no lead in it at
> >all. and as long as you welded the joints tight, it should hold up...but
> >as for me i'll stick with the foil...
> >
> Well the enviornmentialist should love it......and those who think that the
> lead should be taken out of lead, should love it.  Just think you could
> market it as "child proof".  Lead-free suncatchers.......even your children
> will be safe.
> 
> And Mike, when they take the lead out of solder and make plastic
> solder...what then???
> (Only teasing...the coffee is kicking in).
> 
> pj
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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wehn they create something as good as solder, i'll think about it.
though i've always wanted copper or brass solder. as in copper it would
be nice, instead of a tin lead mixture, to have it start out at as a low
temp copper. some day i guess... it would take a green patina real easy
anyway. though i dunno how marketable it would be...


---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141

New Pages Added:

 - New Instructional Guides Added!!!
 - The Creative Process
 - How to Find Patterns for Suncatchers
 - Picking Out Glass in the Store

 - Plus New Photos
 - 5 New Pictures in the 3-D Catagory
 - 2 New Pictures in the Panel Catagory
 - Updated Shots of The Heart of Atlantis, and Japanese Garden

 - But That's Not All!!!
 - My Links Page is UP!
 - And Awards Page Too
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From owner-glass Sun May  4 18:12:38 1997
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From: Bubstah@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Where is everybody??? Plastic Came-----
Date: Sun, 4 May 1997 21:11:38 -0400 (EDT)
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I just read that article.  I don't think that it would be something that I
would like.  Seems to me (IMHO) that it would not do too well for a larger
project such as a window or even a smaller piece say 12 x 12".  It has a
center core of metal but I feel that it would not be strong enough for a
larger project other than a box or suncatcher.
Therefore, I don't think I would even try using it.

Looking forward to other opinions.
Thanks for the topic. I think it is an important one.
Bubstah

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From owner-glass Sun May  4 18:16:03 1997
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From: Bubstah@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Where is everybody??? Plastic Came-----
Date: Sun, 4 May 1997 21:15:28 -0400 (EDT)
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"Them's my sentiments.  DITTO"
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From owner-glass Sun May  4 18:25:36 1997
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From: suzanne albright <suzy@ComCAT.COM>
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Subject: Re: Where is everybody??? Plastic Came-----
Date: Sun, 4 May 97 21:27:46 -0400
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>I just read that article. .
<<snip>>Therefore, I don't think I would even try using it.
>Looking forward to other opinions..
>Bubstah

OK, here's my humble opinion:
Even if it were strong enough, do we *want to enclose our precious glass 
creations in *plastic? Particularly *colored plastic? Read Elisabeth 'n 
Toby's reply. She said it very eloquently! I agree with her 100%.

- Suzanne
>----
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>


suzanne albright<suzy@comcat.com>

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From owner-glass Sun May  4 19:56:19 1997
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From: "M.-J. Taylor" <athena@bridge.net>
To: glass@BUNGI.COM
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Pattern shears 
Date: Sun, 04 May 1997 23:00:51 -0400
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Hi, 

This is going to sound a little dumb, but I got mine from that wholesale
only place on the east coast of Florida about mid state ... think it's in
Vero Beach or somewhere close to that. 

I can't recall the name (obviously) but someone on list must know it ...

FWIW ... maybe not much!

Cheers,

M.-J.

At 01:04 PM 5/4/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Hi Sue-
>
>Glad to get some bungi mail - I was starting to go into withdrawal!  
>
>I am looking for the West German pattern shears. Have tried all the
>wholesalers including Bendheim and no luck - I don't think anybody carries
>them anymore.   I'm hoping that somebody in the group has an old pair
>stuffed in a drawer somewhere, or a European member might be able to give
>me some tips on where to acquire a pair.  Thanks and I'm keeping my fingers
>crossed!
>
>Best regards,
>
>Dani Greer
>----
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>
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From owner-glass Sun May  4 21:27:49 1997
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Subject: maillist
Date: Sun, 4 May 1997 21:25:20 -0700 (PDT)
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Finally spring has arrived in Northern British Columbia.  Gardening season,
so please delete me from the mail list.  See you in the fall.

Pat Eady

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From owner-glass Sun May  4 21:37:04 1997
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From: SusieHUs@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Pattern shears 
Date: Mon, 5 May 1997 00:36:29 -0400 (EDT)
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In a message dated 97-05-04 23:00:39 EDT, you write:

<< >I am looking for the West German pattern shears. >>


Why are you looking for them?  What is it that makes them special to you?

Susie
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From owner-glass Sun May  4 21:37:21 1997
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From: SusieHUs@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Where is everybody??? Plastic Came-----
Date: Mon, 5 May 1997 00:36:54 -0400 (EDT)
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In a message dated 97-05-04 19:53:38 EDT, you write:

<<  Lead-free suncatchers.......even your children  will be safe.  >>

This will only be an added value if your kids have a propensity for chewing
on stained glass work and only if you usually let them!

Being new at glass work altogether (in a class making my first piece - with
LEAD came, thank you very much), what boggles my mind is this:

What do they use to keep that stuff A)on the glass and B) together?

Since it's plastic, I'm assuming that soldering would be out.  Do they hold a
Bic lighter under it and wait til it melts together at the joints?

Susie
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From owner-glass Mon May  5 05:42:19 1997
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Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
Subject:      Re: How to for wiring lamps, etc.
Date:         Mon, 05 May 97 08:33:34 EDT
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I actually find that places such as Home Depot have rather limited
lampmaking supplies (although they do carry the basics).  Just try
to find a 6 inch harp through a hardware store (my local True Value
checked and didn't even have it in its catalog, probably because it
isn't in the Angelo catalog.) Yet the local stained glass store just
plucked one out of a box for me.
I am thinking about making some bases of oak and I am wondering if
adding a weight in the bottom might be a good idea...if I can
find appropriate weights.
Dorothy

--
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From owner-glass Mon May  5 05:52:51 1997
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Subject:      Re:  Plastic Came-----hand-painted polka dots!
Date:         Mon, 05 May 97 08:48:37 EDT
Message-ID:   <970505.085224.EDT.HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu>
References: <<199705042340.AAA19513@linux.nildram.co.uk>>
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Those of us who do craft fairs are going to find ourselves, one day,
down the row from someone who's used plastic came and it's going to
be flying off the rack and we're going to think..maybe it's not so
bad.  Then someone will want to special order one of our designs in
their livinig room colors, and BTW, can we use that blue stuff for the
lines?
(Elisabeth, only six-week election campaigns...we should be so lucky!
Lately it seems, the campaigning never stops.)

--
Dorothy Kalahan, Interlibrary Loan  (860) 679-2940  FAX (860) 679-4046
UCONN Health Center Library, POB 4003, Farmington CT 06034-4003
HCLADM02@UConnVM.uconn.edu
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From owner-glass Mon May  5 06:11:14 1997
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From: artglass@water.waterw.com (pj friend)
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Subject: Re: Where is everybody??? Plastic Came-----
Date: Mon, 5 May 1997 09:10:50 -0400 (EDT)
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Susie wrote,
>In a message dated 97-05-04 19:53:38 EDT, you write:
>
><<  Lead-free suncatchers.......even your children  will be safe.  >>
>
>This will only be an added value if your kids have a propensity for chewing
>on stained glass work and only if you usually let them!
>
Exactly what I meant!!!!

pj>

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From owner-glass Mon May  5 06:11:38 1997
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Subject: Re: How to for wiring lamps, etc.
Date: Mon, 05 May 1997 09:07:40 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May5.5740.0>
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Hi Dorothy,

My Home Depot here has a lot of lamp stuff, all sizes, but each store
may stock different supplies.

On the weighing of the lamp base-Lead fishing weights, and some Fitness
Supply shops sell lead by the pound. Less expensive than solder for this
purpose. If you have a torch, it is not hard to melt in small
quantities, and cast into the shape you want.  Use sand casting, or
something similar. If you need more info. e-mail me.  
Lee Boe
Rain-Boe's Creations

> I am thinking about making some bases of oak and I am wondering if
> adding a weight in the bottom might be a good idea...if I can
> find appropriate weights.
> Dorothy
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From owner-glass Mon May  5 06:19:54 1997
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From: artglass@water.waterw.com (pj friend)
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Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re:  Plastic Came-----hand-painted polka dots!
Date: Mon, 5 May 1997 09:19:17 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <199705051319.JAA27336@water.waterw.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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Dorothy wrote,

>Those of us who do craft fairs are going to find ourselves, one day,
>down the row from someone who's used plastic came and it's going to
>be flying off the rack and we're going to think..maybe it's not so
>bad.  Then someone will want to special order one of our designs in
>their livinig room colors, and BTW, can we use that blue stuff for the
>lines?


Well Dorothy, I don't think I would go so far to think it not so bad.  I
don't take responsibility for anyone else's bad taste. <BG>

They also make fimo.  And that stuff makes me cringe.

And now on a positive note..... .
Stained and leaded glass in the old world tradition is alive and well.  And
I do get my lead levels checked once a year!!!!


my best,
pj  

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From owner-glass Mon May  5 07:14:46 1997
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From: Dawn <dawnm@mail.fidnet.com>
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Subject: Re: Pattern shears
Date: Mon, 05 May 97 09:19:53 PDT
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I am also interested in what differences there are between the West Germa=
n pattern shears, and the shears that are sold in the U.S.  Can you tell =
us about them?

Dawn


> << >I am looking for the West German pattern shears. >>
> 
> 
> Why are you looking for them?  What is it that makes them special to =
you?

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From owner-glass Mon May  5 07:22:39 1997
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From: Martin Streng <mstreng@cenebank.nl>
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Subject: Re:  Plastic Came-----hand-painted polka dots!
Date: Mon, 05 May 1997 16:20:21 +0200
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Long hair!! Loud music!=20
Strange manners, why can=B4t they do it OUR WAY?

Sixties revisited?

Martin Streng
BTW: still in lead.

At 09:19 5-05-97 -0400, you wrote:

>Well Dorothy, I don't think I would go so far to think it not so bad.  I
>don't take responsibility for anyone else's bad taste. <BG>
>
>They also make fimo.  And that stuff makes me cringe.
>

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From owner-glass Mon May  5 07:23:46 1997
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Re: Where is everybody??? Plastic Came-----
Date: Mon, 05 May 1997 10:20:51 -0400
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SusieHUs@aol.com wrote:
> 
> In a message dated 97-05-04 19:53:38 EDT, you write:
> 
> <<  Lead-free suncatchers.......even your children  will be safe.  >>
> 
> This will only be an added value if your kids have a propensity for chewing
> on stained glass work and only if you usually let them!
> 
> Being new at glass work altogether (in a class making my first piece - with
> LEAD came, thank you very much), what boggles my mind is this:
> 
> What do they use to keep that stuff A)on the glass and B) together?
> 
> Since it's plastic, I'm assuming that soldering would be out.  Do they hold a
> Bic lighter under it and wait til it melts together at the joints?
> 
> Susie
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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they have a plastic soldering iron, i think it's like the autobody type.
and, yeah, you basically melt or add more plastic to the joints, from
what i can tell. though i can't really see it as being very strong
though. though if suncatchers a prone to popping off a window, and you
have a baby, they could wander into it's mouth. though if i baby could
tear an eye off a toy, they could probably rip this thing apart too.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141

New Pages Added:

 - New Instructional Guides Added!!!
 - The Creative Process
 - How to Find Patterns for Suncatchers
 - Picking Out Glass in the Store

 - Plus New Photos
 - 5 New Pictures in the 3-D Catagory
 - 2 New Pictures in the Panel Catagory
 - Updated Shots of The Heart of Atlantis, and Japanese Garden

 - But That's Not All!!!
 - My Links Page is UP!
 - And Awards Page Too
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From owner-glass Mon May  5 07:27:21 1997
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
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Subject: Re: How to for wiring lamps, etc.
Date: Mon, 05 May 1997 10:24:28 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May5.62428.0>
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mail wrote:
> 
> I actually find that places such as Home Depot have rather limited
> lampmaking supplies (although they do carry the basics).  Just try
> to find a 6 inch harp through a hardware store (my local True Value
> checked and didn't even have it in its catalog, probably because it
> isn't in the Angelo catalog.) Yet the local stained glass store just
> plucked one out of a box for me.
> I am thinking about making some bases of oak and I am wondering if
> adding a weight in the bottom might be a good idea...if I can
> find appropriate weights.
> 
> Dorothy
> 
> --

that depends on how tall the base is going to be. if it's a table lamp,
the bottom of the base should be on the wide side, but keeping in
proportion with the shade. if it's a floor lamp, then yeah, it'd
probably be a good idea. 

for supplies, basic stuff i get at a hardware, or a stained glass store.
but an electric supply store works even better. they usually have the
extra stuff, like angles, splitters, all different sizes of caps, etc.
that's where i got most of my hardware for my lamp.


---Mike Savad



-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141

New Pages Added:

 - New Instructional Guides Added!!!
 - The Creative Process
 - How to Find Patterns for Suncatchers
 - Picking Out Glass in the Store

 - Plus New Photos
 - 5 New Pictures in the 3-D Catagory
 - 2 New Pictures in the Panel Catagory
 - Updated Shots of The Heart of Atlantis, and Japanese Garden

 - But That's Not All!!!
 - My Links Page is UP!
 - And Awards Page Too
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From owner-glass Mon May  5 07:30:48 1997
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
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Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Plastic Came-----hand-painted polka dots!
Date: Mon, 05 May 1997 10:28:00 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May5.6280.0>
References: <<970505.085224.EDT.HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu>>
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mail wrote:
> 
> Those of us who do craft fairs are going to find ourselves, one day,
> down the row from someone who's used plastic came and it's going to
> be flying off the rack and we're going to think..maybe it's not so
> bad.  Then someone will want to special order one of our designs in
> their livinig room colors, and BTW, can we use that blue stuff for the
> lines?
> (Elisabeth, only six-week election campaigns...we should be so lucky!
> Lately it seems, the campaigning never stops.)
> 
> --


maybe, and probably, it's alot like the plastic stuff they pass off as
real stained glass. some little crafter, calling themselves a big shot,
will get some book designs, and use plasti-came, and make a bunch of
stuff. it's bound to happen, we'll just have to turn our noses up at it.
:) though this stuff is more limiting then metal came. at least in came
(metal), even in the ugliest suncatcher, you can have wire overlays, a
little 3-d, etc. and of course you still really can't make a descent
looking box with it.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141

New Pages Added:

 - New Instructional Guides Added!!!
 - The Creative Process
 - How to Find Patterns for Suncatchers
 - Picking Out Glass in the Store

 - Plus New Photos
 - 5 New Pictures in the 3-D Catagory
 - 2 New Pictures in the Panel Catagory
 - Updated Shots of The Heart of Atlantis, and Japanese Garden

 - But That's Not All!!!
 - My Links Page is UP!
 - And Awards Page Too
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From owner-glass Mon May  5 07:35:39 1997
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From: Dawn <dawnm@mail.fidnet.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; X-MAPIextension=".TXT"
Subject: Plastic Came
Date: Mon, 05 May 97 09:40:38 PDT
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Not too long ago someone wrote  to the group asking about the safety of =
involving her 9-year old daughter in the art of stained glass.  Of course=
, the consensus was that the lead would be harmful to a child.

Although I abhor the thought of plastic came, perhaps that is where their=
 marketing niche might be.  If the child is interested in working with =
the parent in stained glass, perhaps this would be a way to accomplish =
this, providing the parent cuts and grinds the glass for the child.  I =
think this would greatly diminish the risk to the child, while still lett=
ing the child experiment with other components, such as design, color, =
texture.  

While we might loathe the window done with the colored plastic came by =
the studio down the street, we would probably treasure the first piece =
of stained glass put together by our child, with plastic came and all. =
  

Dawn
 
> <<  Lead-free suncatchers.......even your children  will be safe.  >>

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From owner-glass Mon May  5 07:37:09 1997
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From: Dawn <dawnm@mail.fidnet.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Re: Plastic Came-----hand-painted polka dots!
Date: Mon, 05 May 97 09:42:13 PDT
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> They also make fimo.  And that stuff makes me cringe.

P.J.,

What is "fimo"?

Dawn
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From owner-glass Mon May  5 07:49:10 1997
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Re: Plastic Came
Date: Mon, 05 May 1997 10:46:24 -0400
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Dawn wrote:
> 
> Not too long ago someone wrote  to the group asking about the safety of =
> involving her 9-year old daughter in the art of stained glass.  Of course=
> , the consensus was that the lead would be harmful to a child.
> 
> Although I abhor the thought of plastic came, perhaps that is where their=
>  marketing niche might be.  If the child is interested in working with =
> the parent in stained glass, perhaps this would be a way to accomplish =
> this, providing the parent cuts and grinds the glass for the child.  I =
> think this would greatly diminish the risk to the child, while still lett=
> ing the child experiment with other components, such as design, color, =
> texture.
> 
> While we might loathe the window done with the colored plastic came by =
> the studio down the street, we would probably treasure the first piece =
> of stained glass put together by our child, with plastic came and all. =
> 
> 
> Dawn
> 
> > <<  Lead-free suncatchers.......even your children  will be safe.  >>
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


9 years old is ok, i was 9 when i first started well the 9-10 year
border anyway. lead was really never a huge concern for me, unless i
stuck it in my mouth. and besides half of the fun is cutting out the
glass. the only safe thing (sort of) for the kid to do is picking out
the glass. they usually won't know how to design something properly,
etc, etc. and they still have to weld the joints together, which means
istead of breathing a bit of lead and flux. they'd be sucking in the
fumes the plastic gave off.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141

New Pages Added:

 - New Instructional Guides Added!!!
 - The Creative Process
 - How to Find Patterns for Suncatchers
 - Picking Out Glass in the Store

 - Plus New Photos
 - 5 New Pictures in the 3-D Catagory
 - 2 New Pictures in the Panel Catagory
 - Updated Shots of The Heart of Atlantis, and Japanese Garden

 - But That's Not All!!!
 - My Links Page is UP!
 - And Awards Page Too
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From owner-glass Mon May  5 07:49:44 1997
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Plastic Came-----hand-painted polka dots!
Date: Mon, 05 May 1997 10:47:10 -0400
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Dawn wrote:
> 
> > They also make fimo.  And that stuff makes me cringe.
> 
> P.J.,
> 
> What is "fimo"?
> 
> Dawn
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


is'nt fimo that clay that hardens in the stove, used to make ugly beads
and things like that?

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141

New Pages Added:

 - New Instructional Guides Added!!!
 - The Creative Process
 - How to Find Patterns for Suncatchers
 - Picking Out Glass in the Store

 - Plus New Photos
 - 5 New Pictures in the 3-D Catagory
 - 2 New Pictures in the Panel Catagory
 - Updated Shots of The Heart of Atlantis, and Japanese Garden

 - But That's Not All!!!
 - My Links Page is UP!
 - And Awards Page Too
----
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From owner-glass Mon May  5 08:23:03 1997
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From: artglass@water.waterw.com (pj friend)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Plastic Came-----hand-painted polka dots!
Date: Mon, 5 May 1997 11:22:34 -0400 (EDT)
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Precedence: bulk

Mike wrote,

:is'nt fimo that clay that hardens in the stove, used to make ugly beads
>and things like that?
>> 
BINGO!!!!  You won the prize.

pj

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From: len alcamo <alcamoz@mwt.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Re: Where is everybody??? Plastic Came-----
Date: Mon, 5 May 1997 10:45:02 -0500 (CDT)
Message-ID: <199705051545.KAA15055@westbyserver.westby.mwt.net>
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>>I'm sorry ... plastic came? In an array of colors? Eeeyeuw!
>
>I really wanted to order the pink....do you think it comes in pink??? That
>happens to be my fav. color.  


Hi Bungists,

Back in the days when I used to make stained glass windows for a living, I
used painted came in two projects. One was a 16 foot long stylized  map of
the Mississippi River and it's tributaries. In that case I used blue painted
came to represent some of the smaller tributaries. Since this was a interior
partition using borrowed light,  I felt that the reflective value of the
painted came was appropriate. The second was an all pink underwater scene in
an all pink bathroom (PJ would love it) in that case I outlined the fish in
pink, a whimsical thing. I used opaque paint markers and it held up
suprisingly well

 I have seen other work with painted came exclusively in goemetric designs,
and I thought it looked okay... as a juxtiposed design element.

You professionals out there seem to spend all your energy trying to perfect
your skills,  us hobbyists on the other hand just want to have some fun and
try out new things so try and lighten up a little and don't be so smug and
arrogant for cryin' out loud.

Yes... I am trying to bait you  :-)

Len

--*** Builder of the world's largest stained glass loon (I think) 9 feet
long ***--
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From owner-glass Mon May  5 10:21:59 1997
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From: "Lerner, Frank M (NM75)" <frank.lerner@das.honeywell.com>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: RE: Plastic Came-----hand-painted polka dots!
Date: Mon, 5 May 1997 11:21:42 -0600
Message-ID: <1997May5.52142.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I thought it was called PENDO.

>----------
>From: 	artglass@water.waterw.com[SMTP:artglass@water.waterw.com]
>Sent: 	Monday, May 05, 1997 9:22AM
>To: 	glass@bungi.com
>Subject: 	Re: Plastic Came-----hand-painted polka dots!
>
>Mike wrote,
>
>:is'nt fimo that clay that hardens in the stove, used to make ugly beads
>>and things like that?
>>> 
>BINGO!!!!  You won the prize.
>
>pj
>
>----
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From owner-glass Mon May  5 10:34:56 1997
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From: "Michael J. Greer" <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: All <GLASS@BUNGI.COM>
Subject: Pattern shears
Date: Mon, 5 May 1997 13:33:31 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May5.93331.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Why do I want W. German shears?  Because they cut a narrower kerf;
consequently, the glass pieces are a hair larger resulting in a tighter fit
when building the window.  This can become important in a window with lots
of pieces.  If you're constantly fighting shrinkage while your building
(and I do!  Of course, It may be just fate - heaven forbid that we have too
much fun!), part of the problem may well be the shears you've used.  The
Japanese shears are close to the German ones, but not as well made.  The
German shears have a larger thumb hole and smoother action, too.  In
general, they're just a better tool.  When ya do it for a living, good
tools (and the right tools for the individual ) become very important. 
Sometimes finding just exactly the right piece of equipment becomes a
downright obsession! Thanks for all your interest and help :-)

Best regards,

Dani Greer
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From owner-glass Mon May  5 12:02:21 1997
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From: len alcamo <alcamoz@mwt.net>
To: glass@BUNGI.COM
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Pattern shears
Date: Mon, 5 May 1997 14:00:45 -0500 (CDT)
Message-ID: <199705051900.OAA22889@westbyserver.westby.mwt.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


 
>Japanese shears are close to the German ones, but not as well made.  The
>German shears have a larger thumb hole and smoother action, too.  In
>general, they're just a better tool.  

Hi Dani,

The best shears I've come across were made right here in the good old USA

They are square nose multi piece with handles of plated bronze with very
nice tool steel blades made by Accurate Machine and Mfg. St Louis Mo. Great
balance and ergos  IMHO

I don't know if they are still being made, I borrowed mine from a studio I
worked for  and forgot to return them.. darn...  pilferage? yeah, guilty as
charged  :-)

Len

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From owner-glass Mon May  5 14:29:25 1997
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X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Where is everybody??? Plastic Came-----
Date: Mon, 05 May 1997 17:26:28 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May5.132628.0>
References: <<199705051545.KAA15055@westbyserver.westby.mwt.net>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

len alcamo wrote:
> 
> >>I'm sorry ... plastic came? In an array of colors? Eeeyeuw!
> >
> >I really wanted to order the pink....do you think it comes in pink??? That
> >happens to be my fav. color.
> 
> Hi Bungists,
> 
> Back in the days when I used to make stained glass windows for a living, I
> used painted came in two projects. One was a 16 foot long stylized  map of
> the Mississippi River and it's tributaries. In that case I used blue painted
> came to represent some of the smaller tributaries. Since this was a interior
> partition using borrowed light,  I felt that the reflective value of the
> painted came was appropriate. The second was an all pink underwater scene in
> an all pink bathroom (PJ would love it) in that case I outlined the fish in
> pink, a whimsical thing. I used opaque paint markers and it held up
> suprisingly well
> 
>  I have seen other work with painted came exclusively in goemetric designs,
> and I thought it looked okay... as a juxtiposed design element.
> 
> You professionals out there seem to spend all your energy trying to perfect
> your skills,  us hobbyists on the other hand just want to have some fun and
> try out new things so try and lighten up a little and don't be so smug and
> arrogant for cryin' out loud.
> 
> Yes... I am trying to bait you  :-)
> 
> Len
> 
> --*** Builder of the world's largest stained glass loon (I think) 9 feet
> long ***--
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> ----
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> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


i think the colored came would be neat if it were just htat...colored.
like brass capped came, have it in colors, but make it solderable too
somehow. this way you can highlight sections in a piece, and still keep
it strong. the main think i don't like about the plastic stuff is, it
does'nt look very strong. (at least in window applications).

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141

New Pages Added:

 - New Instructional Guides Added!!!
 - The Creative Process
 - How to Find Patterns for Suncatchers
 - Picking Out Glass in the Store

 - Plus New Photos
 - 5 New Pictures in the 3-D Catagory
 - 2 New Pictures in the Panel Catagory
 - Updated Shots of The Heart of Atlantis, and Japanese Garden

 - But That's Not All!!!
 - My Links Page is UP!
 - And Awards Page Too
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From owner-glass Mon May  5 17:58:14 1997
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re:  Plastic Came-----hand-painted polka dots!
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@mail.nildram.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 01:04:45 +0000
Message-ID: <199705060057.BAA15415@linux.nildram.co.uk>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi Diorothy,
Your comments remind me of one hilarious incident at The british 
National Gallery in London, many years ago. Amongst many exhibits was 
a Piccasso painting called "Lady in Blue". A foreign tourist visiting 
the Gallery spent literally hours in front of it,  peering, staring, 
moving forward to see better, moving backwards to see better, 
side-ways one way and so on. I abandoned the spectacle with my 
friends and moved on to the other exhibits, but eventually caught 
sight of this foreign gentlemen again in the book/postcard/poster 
shop.
He had pulled out a poster of this painting, waved it in the air, 
moved towards the sales assistant and asked in a loud and penetrating 
voice:
"Excuse me Miss! Have you got this one in PINK??"

 Hooray for pink cames with hand-painted red polka 
dots!!!
P.S. Everything "sags" with age.....   ;-) 
Elisabeth 'n Toby

Dorothy wrote:
  Then someone will want to special order one of our designs in
their livinig room colors, and BTW, can we use that blue stuff
 for the lines?
(Elisabeth, only six-week election campaigns...we should be so lucky!
Lately it seems, the campaigning never stops.)
----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
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From owner-glass Tue May  6 05:03:07 1997
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From: "M. Cooper" <shmfcoop@concentric.net>
To: glass@bungi.com.
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Swan pattern
Date: Tue, 06 May 1997 08:04:53 -0700
Message-ID: <1997May6.1453.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi, I'm usually just a lurker here, but anyone advise me where I can
find a nice pattern of a swan?  Thanks, Meigan
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From owner-glass Tue May  6 05:51:26 1997
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From: "last name: Anthony" <panthony@mail.bcpl.lib.md.us>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=koi8-r
Subject: glass cutting, water, etc
Date: Tue, 06 May 1997 08:51:14 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May6.45114.0>
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Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Apropos of the discussionn about why use oil or water to run a score,
and Mike's references to cutting glass underwater with a scissors, see
this on Spectrum's site:
http://www.spectrumglass.com/Library/ScoreArticles/NoFishStory.html
--SB
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From owner-glass Tue May  6 06:12:12 1997
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From: "Paula Nelson" <pjnjril@ngai.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: some glass i got
Summary: Authenticated sender is <pjnjril@mailp.starnetinc.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 20:05:53 +0000
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Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: vom Uitland rottz at the Glass Dog Studio
Precedence: bulk

> Bullseye - opalescent, ring mottled orange with yellow mottles on the
> back. it's about 20"x30" i payed $15.00.

I think that's a VERY good price for a sheet that large... one of 
the places I go to frequently (but don't buy from unless I REALLY 
gotta have it ;) has Bullseye mottled for $15 for 12x12! 


Paula
____________________________________________________________

Paula Nelson
pjnjril@ngai.com
http://pwp.starnetinc.com/pjnjril/uitland.htm

The Glass Dog Studio - featuring Rottweilers in Glass
(708) 399-6791 VoiceMail Pager

"Life is too short to work weak dogs"
____________________________________________________________
"No slack - but that doesn't make us bad people" SCPCC 13-96







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From owner-glass Tue May  6 06:16:29 1997
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From: Reitmann <oddjob@scc.net>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: cost for lessons
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 08:13:51 -0500
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Precedence: bulk

I was appproached by someone (unkown to me) requesting private one on =
one lessons. She requested using all of my tools and equipment for these =
lessons.
She would like to learn the basics of both lead and foil,doing one =
project each.
My questions:
1. is this a reasonable request
2. how many lessons should this encompass
3. how much to charge
I know time is an important factor here and right now I am caught up on =
my commissions and these lessons wouldn't interfer.  I have just opened =
my studio and am trying to build up my business. All input greatly =
appreciated.
Thanks in advance:
Sue Reitmann ( oddjob@scc.net )
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From owner-glass Tue May  6 06:25:40 1997
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X-Path: busprod.com!artist
From: artist@busprod.com (LJ Maas)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Swan pattern
Date: Tue, 06 May 1997 08:28:39 -0500
Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.19970506082839.0069c4e8@busprod.com>
References: <<1997May6.1453.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

>Hi, I'm usually just a lurker here, but anyone advise me where I can
>find a nice pattern of a swan?  Thanks, Meigan

Meigan...There's a nice swan among the reeds in a pattern book called: "200
Design Ideas For Stained Glass," by Mark & Susan Walton. CKE Publications.
I've never been a "swan lover," but this pattern has a certain serenity to
it. Hope this helps...LJ

  ****************************************************************
LJ Maas: artist@busprod.com
ART WITH ATTITUDE Stained Glass Design
"Unique Stained Glass Creations"
<http://www.art-with-attitude.com/glass/artglass.html>

OVER THE RAINBOW Webpage Design & Consulting
<http://www.art-with-attitude.com/rainbow.html>
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From owner-glass Tue May  6 06:36:33 1997
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From: artist@busprod.com (LJ Maas)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: shipping stained glass
Date: Tue, 06 May 1997 08:39:23 -0500
Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.19970506083923.006a8a50@busprod.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Ok, I don't know if this ever went thru for me the other day...if it did,
ignore it and bear with me. I really could use some input, however...

I was curious if others out there shipped their work to customers? I use 2
day priority mail for all of my gift items (I've had 2 packages lost in the
past 6 months due to UPS!), but I'm doing a window for a customer in
another state (I'm in Oklahoma, he's in Arizona.)...a sidelight approx. 1
ft. x 5ft.

any thoughts as to shipping the piece? UPS, USPS, Fed Ex, etc...? Any other
brainstorms as to how to package/crate it? Do I crate it myself, or rely on
the shipping company? I'd appreciate the info.
thanks, LJ
  ****************************************************************
LJ Maas: artist@busprod.com
ART WITH ATTITUDE Stained Glass Design
"Unique Stained Glass Creations"
<http://www.art-with-attitude.com/glass/artglass.html>

OVER THE RAINBOW Webpage Design & Consulting
<http://www.art-with-attitude.com/rainbow.html>
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From owner-glass Tue May  6 06:56:56 1997
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From: KrissyMar@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: cost for lessons
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 09:56:21 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <1997May6.55621.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I am not sure what you should charge for lessons, but I would advise you to
have the person get her own cutter. If you use a cutter wrong, you can ruin
it in one swipe.      Krissy
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From owner-glass Tue May  6 07:43:20 1997
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From: artist@busprod.com (LJ Maas)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: cost for lessons
Date: Tue, 06 May 1997 09:46:23 -0500
Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.19970506094623.006a84f8@busprod.com>
References: <<1997May6.31351.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

>I was appproached by someone (unkown to me) requesting private one on 
>one lessons. She requested using all of my tools and equipment for these 
>lessons.
>My questions:
>1. is this a reasonable request
>2. how many lessons should this encompass
>3. how much to charge


Sue...
There are a number of things to consider. Perhaps you should give yourself
a chance to see if there is are a number of people and run a class if you
have the time and space necessary. I was approached with much the same
notion by a couple of gals (friends of a friend). I put out a flyer and
some word of mouth and I had a class of 6 for my first go! More people were
interested than I had thought. 

I came up with some prices for the classes by researching what adult ed
classes at local schools were charging. A syllabus of sorts and materials
sheet were mailed to students 2 weeks before classes started so they would
have time to shop for supplies. This way they were prepared to dive in on
the first evening. 

Do you run a retail shop along with your studio? Friends of mine in
Illinois offer special prices and packages to their students. Since I do
not run a retail store along with my studio, I found my local shop was more
than willing to offer a small discount to my students...after all, they
hope the students stay with the craft and shop there!

I used a book called, "Introduction To Stained Glass: A Teaching Manual"
from Wardell Publications. It was the perfect starter manual. It starts
with the basics in lead & copper foil and goes to advanced projects like
lamps and boxes. Nothing overly in depth, but enough info to get going...it
also has patterns for a number of projects included. Hopefully it's still
available!

I've run on, but I would choose this way again rather than having a newbie
use my tools...sounds possesive, I know!
LJ
  ****************************************************************
LJ Maas: artist@busprod.com
ART WITH ATTITUDE Stained Glass Design
"Unique Stained Glass Creations"
<http://www.art-with-attitude.com/glass/artglass.html>

OVER THE RAINBOW Webpage Design & Consulting
<http://www.art-with-attitude.com/rainbow.html>
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From owner-glass Tue May  6 08:40:36 1997
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: some glass i got
Date: Tue, 06 May 1997 11:36:47 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May6.73647.0>
References: <<199705061313.IAA24734@email6.starnetinc.com>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Paula Nelson wrote:
> 
> > Bullseye - opalescent, ring mottled orange with yellow mottles on the
> > back. it's about 20"x30" i payed $15.00.
> 
> I think that's a VERY good price for a sheet that large... one of
> the places I go to frequently (but don't buy from unless I REALLY
> gotta have it ;) has Bullseye mottled for $15 for 12x12!
> 
> Paula
> ____________________________________________________________
> 
> Paula Nelson
> pjnjril@ngai.com
> http://pwp.starnetinc.com/pjnjril/uitland.htm
> 
> The Glass Dog Studio - featuring Rottweilers in Glass
> (708) 399-6791 VoiceMail Pager
> 
> "Life is too short to work weak dogs"
> ____________________________________________________________
> "No slack - but that doesn't make us bad people" SCPCC 13-96
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


yeah alot of the glass was at least 1/2 off, but by now she's probably
moved away, but i wanted to see how good a bargain i got for what i
bought. usally i always say to myself and others "always take advantage
of a good deal". when it comes time to it, i never follow that, usually
at a store i'll spend around $100 and i'll get basic supplies and a
couple sheets of glass. but when i'm not in a store enviroment, it's
more penetrating when i see the money go. but i figure i got around
$500-$700 worth of glass if i bought it retail, and i paid around $250
for it all. and there was still quite a bit of glass left. youg. was
$5.00 a sheet (12x16), urobors around $4.00 for the same size. that
fibroid for $2.00 8x12, though i'm still looking for that one price
wise, it had a date going back to the 80's.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141

New Pages Added:

 - New Instructional Guides Added!!!
 - The Creative Process
 - How to Find Patterns for Suncatchers
 - Picking Out Glass in the Store

 - Plus New Photos
 - 5 New Pictures in the 3-D Catagory
 - 2 New Pictures in the Panel Catagory
 - Updated Shots of The Heart of Atlantis, and Japanese Garden

 - But That's Not All!!!
 - My Links Page is UP!
 - And Awards Page Too
----
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From owner-glass Tue May  6 08:43:42 1997
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: cost for lessons
Date: Tue, 06 May 1997 11:39:50 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May6.73950.0>
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Reitmann wrote:
> 
> I was appproached by someone (unkown to me) requesting private one on =
> one lessons. She requested using all of my tools and equipment for these =
> lessons.
> She would like to learn the basics of both lead and foil,doing one =
> project each.
> My questions:
> 1. is this a reasonable request
> 2. how many lessons should this encompass
> 3. how much to charge
> I know time is an important factor here and right now I am caught up on =
> my commissions and these lessons wouldn't interfer.  I have just opened =
> my studio and am trying to build up my business. All input greatly =
> appreciated.
> Thanks in advance:
> Sue Reitmann ( oddjob@scc.net )
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


i'm not sure what to charge, but i'd first give her a list of the
equipment she needs to buy. other wise your well treated tools may get
hurt. normally in a class situation, the only things of yours that are
or should be used by students, are: the tables, maybe a fid, the
grinder, sink, bandaids, and maybe some pencils and stuff. otherwise
she'll get a cheap lesson, and you'll end up with abused tools.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141

New Pages Added:

 - New Instructional Guides Added!!!
 - The Creative Process
 - How to Find Patterns for Suncatchers
 - Picking Out Glass in the Store

 - Plus New Photos
 - 5 New Pictures in the 3-D Catagory
 - 2 New Pictures in the Panel Catagory
 - Updated Shots of The Heart of Atlantis, and Japanese Garden

 - But That's Not All!!!
 - My Links Page is UP!
 - And Awards Page Too
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From owner-glass Tue May  6 08:47:25 1997
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Re: shipping stained glass
Date: Tue, 06 May 1997 11:44:41 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May6.74441.0>
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LJ Maas wrote:
> 
> Ok, I don't know if this ever went thru for me the other day...if it did,
> ignore it and bear with me. I really could use some input, however...
> 
> I was curious if others out there shipped their work to customers? I use 2
> day priority mail for all of my gift items (I've had 2 packages lost in the
> past 6 months due to UPS!), but I'm doing a window for a customer in
> another state (I'm in Oklahoma, he's in Arizona.)...a sidelight approx. 1
> ft. x 5ft.
> 
> any thoughts as to shipping the piece? UPS, USPS, Fed Ex, etc...? Any other
> brainstorms as to how to package/crate it? Do I crate it myself, or rely on
> the shipping company? I'd appreciate the info.
> thanks, LJ
>   ****************************************************************
> LJ Maas: artist@busprod.com
> ART WITH ATTITUDE Stained Glass Design
> "Unique Stained Glass Creations"
> <http://www.art-with-attitude.com/glass/artglass.html>
> 
> OVER THE RAINBOW Webpage Design & Consulting
> <http://www.art-with-attitude.com/rainbow.html>
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well if you rely on a shipping company to pack it for you, they may be
able to insure that it does'nt break, then pay you if it does (i'm just
guessing here). i would'nt do it throught the mail. i use UPS for
everything, there would be an extra charge if it is'nt in a box, i'd
probably overnight it (add shipping to your final costs), this way there
would be less handling of it. fed-ex may work as well, they have less
restriction of how big something is, unlike UPS. but they either have
over night or 2-day. you may also want to put signiture required so it's
not left on the door step, fed-ex; it's built in to the form. UPS they
charge around a 1.00 or so. it mainly protects from bad weather, and
thieves.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141

New Pages Added:

 - New Instructional Guides Added!!!
 - The Creative Process
 - How to Find Patterns for Suncatchers
 - Picking Out Glass in the Store

 - Plus New Photos
 - 5 New Pictures in the 3-D Catagory
 - 2 New Pictures in the Panel Catagory
 - Updated Shots of The Heart of Atlantis, and Japanese Garden

 - But That's Not All!!!
 - My Links Page is UP!
 - And Awards Page Too
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From owner-glass Tue May  6 10:35:03 1997
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Subject: Re: cost for lessons
Date: Tue, 06 May 1997 13:33:07 -0700
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Reitmann wrote:
> 
> I was appproached by someone (unkown to me) requesting private one on =
> one lessons. She requested using all of my tools and equipment for these =
> lessons.
> She would like to learn the basics of both lead and foil,doing one =
> project each.
> My questions:
> 1. is this a reasonable request
That depends on what YOU are comfortable doing. The sceptical(sp) part
of me wonders why no investment in tools- does she just want two panels,
and this is a cheaper way of getting them?
> 2. how many lessons should this encompass 
that depends on their learning curve
> 3. how much to charge
The person I learned from had figured out what an evenings time was
worth to him if he was doing revenue producing work, then divided by the
desired class size. He hadn't given a lead class in years, cuz he
couldn't get a minimum enrolement. We worked out that he work the cost
per student X tuition = his income. We what if we paid 4 X Y instead of
6 X Z, and you get the same $$ - so that's how I learned lead. It cost
me a few bucks more, but otherwise one of us might have retired before
the next lead class.
> I know time is an important factor here and right now I am caught up on =
> my commissions and these lessons wouldn't interfer.  I have just opened =
> my studio and am trying to build up my business. All input greatly =
> appreciated.
What's your business plan ? Commission work, selling supplies to new
students, or giving classes? 
> Thanks in advance:
> Sue Reitmann ( oddjob@scc.net )
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
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From owner-glass Tue May  6 11:18:26 1997
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From: "Robert E. Jones" <rejones@CapAccess.org>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Where is everybody??? Plastic Came-----
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 14:22:51 -0400 (EDT)
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On the plastic came front......

Do they happen to mention if this is fade resistent in the presence of UV?

Most plastic is NOT.  If it isn't, then it probably isn't any good for 
suncatchers.

Next thing you know they will develop "art plexiglass"


Bob Jones                        rejones@capaccess.org

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From owner-glass Tue May  6 11:40:13 1997
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From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@computer.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Where is everybody??? Plastic Came-----
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Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 14:46:55 +0000
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> Next thing you know they will develop "art plexiglass"

They've been there, Bob ... and they've done that.

Albert

Albert Lewis, Executive Director
International Guild of Glass Artists
A 501(c)(6) nonprofit organization
Tonetta Lake Road, Brewster NY 10509
(914) 278-2152   Fax: (914) 278-2481
_________________________________________________________
http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/ [home page]
http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/guide.htm [Sources Guide]
http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/links.htm [Members' Work]

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From owner-glass Tue May  6 15:00:42 1997
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From: Bubstah@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: cost for lessons
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 18:00:07 -0400 (EDT)
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In South Jersey area I've paid about 5.00 to 8.00 for classes and a minimum
of six. Also, I've also taken  classes at a minimal charge and was charged
for glass, flux, solder, and use of the teachers grinder.  Had to have my own
glass cutter and breakers tho.  Couldn't use the teachers.  She had an
inferior (old) soldering iron that I used also but disliked and bought my
own.

Hope I was able to help you a bit.

Bubstah
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From owner-glass Tue May  6 15:23:48 1997
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From: Mike  Peck <summit-stained-glass@worldnet.att.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Re: Pattern shears
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 22:09:26 +0000
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At 05:33 PM 5/5/97 +0000, you wrote:
>Why do I want W. German shears?  Because they cut a narrower kerf;
>consequently, the glass pieces are a hair larger resulting in a tighter fit
>when building the window. 
>
>Best regards,
>
>Dani Greer
>----


Dani ---  Just a quick note ...... I like shears that cut thinner kerf as
well and I have found that the MIKA Combination Two-In-One shears do exactly
that.  And, for the money ... about $20 retail, they're pretty good quality.
Check them out .....

Mike Peck
Summit Stained Glass

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From owner-glass Tue May  6 16:01:06 1997
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From: artglass@water.waterw.com (pj friend)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: cost for lessons
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 19:00:36 -0400 (EDT)
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Bubstah wrote,
>In South Jersey area I've paid about 5.00 to 8.00 for classes and a minimum
>of six. Also, I've also taken  classes at a minimal charge and was charged
>for glass, flux, solder, and use of the teachers grinder.  Had to have my own
>glass cutter and breakers tho.  Couldn't use the teachers.  She had an
>inferior (old) soldering iron that I used also but disliked and bought my
>own.>>
We are also in South Jersey and have taught for about 20 some years....

Depending on the type of class we taught....for a beginner lead course we
usually charged 175.00 materials not included.  You'd better have your own
cutter and all the necessities.....cause you just don't learn glass in the
classroom.  It was a must for most of our sutdents to do work at home. Our
students did have access to three grinders.  But we also let them use stones
if the wanted to (hehehe). The majority of our beginner students left the
class with a few significant pieces.  We did not teach suncatchers.

We have also done advanced classes $225.00 for 8 weeks.  Hour runs alittle
longer.
Most advanced students had major projects in mind when they came.

We have taught designing courses, business courses and painting and fusing
courses.
Depending on the length of time the class runs, we charged accordingly.

my best,
pj



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From owner-glass Tue May  6 16:02:12 1997
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On Tue, 6 May 1997 18:36:34 -0400 Mail Delivery Subsystem
<postoffice@staff.juno.com> writes:
>This is a MIME-encapsulated message
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>from eldondo1@juno.com
>
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>	id SpF09208; Tue, 06 May 1997 18:34:28 EDT
>To: glass@bungi, com@juno.com
>Subject: new mosaic pattern book
>Message-ID: <19970506.162124.5143.0.eldondo1@juno.com>
>X-Mailer: Juno 1.15
>X-Juno-Line-Breaks: 26
>From: eldondo1@juno.com
>Date: Tue, 06 May 1997 18:34:28 EDT
>
>i am really excited about the new book that will be out the end of
>June.The title is Mosaics Made Easy by Nancy Willimon.                 
>  
>                                                                       
>It
>will include 10 patterns=general instructions and guidelines-Also each
>pattern has individual instructions and hints for building that
>particular pattern.                        INcludes Oriental Pine
>Tree(like a silk screen)  24 by 30 ..                                  
>  
>                                Tropical Fish (with jewels) 18 by 
>30...  
>                                                                       
>  
>            Art Deco Water Wave 16 by 44...                            
>  
>                                                                  
>Peacock
>1/2 round 30 " base...                                                 
>  
>                                               Floral           16 by
>24...                                                                  
>  
>                                              Giraffes (Mom and Baby) 
>24
>by 36...                                                               
>  
>                         Southwest Geometric (table Top) 18 by 24...   
>  
>                                                                     
>Sun/Moon&Stars (in mirror) 30 by 30...                                 
>  
>                                                   Window in a Window
>(With Pots) 16 by 24,,,                                                
>  
>                        San Francisco Row Homes ( 15 by 20)            
>  
>                                                          See your 
>retail
>dealer or call (314) 356 7740  St Louis Stained Glass Studio ...    
>You
>may e-mail me for other info at eldondo 1 @juno.com  Don DeVoto        
>  
>              so all the Bunginians won't have to delete the extra
>mail!!!!!!
>
>--SAA22403.862958194/m3.boston.juno.com--
>
>
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From owner-glass Tue May  6 16:32:47 1997
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Albert Lewis:  Help i cannot seem to send mail to the Bunginians
(eldondo1@juno.com) Don DeVoto Thanks.......
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From owner-glass Tue May  6 17:17:35 1997
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> Albert Lewis:  Help i cannot seem to send mail to the Bunginians
> (eldondo1@juno.com) Don DeVoto Thanks.......

To send to the list, email to: glass@bungi.com, Don, which is, I
guess, what you've been doing.   It just seems kind of busy out there
right now.  By the way, I'm just another bungi participant like you
... I know no more and no less than you do and must often keep trying
myself. <s>

Albert
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From owner-glass Tue May  6 20:15:47 1997
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From: eldondo1@juno.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Mosaic Book
Date: Tue, 06 May 1997 23:13:29 EDT
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Mosaics Made Easy-By Nancy Willimon                                      
                                                        10
patterns=general instructions and guidelines-also each pattern has
individual instructions and hints for building that particular pattern,
It includes  Oriental Pine tree (like a silk screen)24 by 32'",Tropical
Fish (with jewels) 18 by 30".Art Deco Water Wave 16 by 24",Peacock  !/2
round 30" base, Floral  16 by 24", Giraffes(Mom and Baby) 24 by
36",Southwest Geometric (Table Top),18 by 24",Sun/Moon and Stars (in
mirror) 30 by 30 ",Window in a window (with pots)16 by 24),San Francisco
Row Homes 15 by 40" ..... Available end of June ,see your local retailer.
If you want to keep other Bunginians happy and have a need for more info
,you can e-mail me at " eldondo1@juno.com" or call (314) 256 7740 St.
Louis Stained Glass Studio..   Don DeVoto
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From owner-glass Tue May  6 20:19:42 1997
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From: eldondo1@juno.com
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Subject: Mosaic Book
Date: Tue, 06 May 1997 23:14:42 EDT
Message-ID: <1997May7.31442.0>
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Mosaics Made Easy-By Nancy Willimon                                      
                                                        10
patterns=general instructions and guidelines-also each pattern has
individual instructions and hints for building that particular pattern,
It includes  Oriental Pine tree (like a silk screen)24 by 32'",Tropical
Fish (with jewels) 18 by 30".Art Deco Water Wave 16 by 24",Peacock  !/2
round 30" base, Floral  16 by 24", Giraffes(Mom and Baby) 24 by
36",Southwest Geometric (Table Top),18 by 24",Sun/Moon and Stars (in
mirror) 30 by 30 ",Window in a window (with pots)16 by 24),San Francisco
Row Homes 15 by 40" ..... Available end of June ,see your local retailer.
If you want to keep other Bunginians happy and have a need for more info
,you can e-mail me at " eldondo1@juno.com" or call (314) 256 7740 St.
Louis Stained Glass Studio..   Don DeVoto
----
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From owner-glass Tue May  6 21:12:26 1997
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Check out my web page for Stained glass. We make original stained glass
crafts.
http://www.netcom.com/jacuz/crafts.html 

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Subject: Re: [Fwd: Stained glass]
Date: Wed, 07 May 1997 00:14:11 -0400
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> http://www.netcom.com/jacuz/crafts.html
Sorry, that URL doesn't work.
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From owner-glass Wed May  7 05:50:52 1997
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From: "Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Green patina help
Date: Wed, 7 May 1997 08:50:06 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May7.4506.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi all Bungians.  Maybe someone here can help me with a problem.  I
recently purchased some Jax Green Patina, and am not at all satisfied with
the results.  I am trying it out on a copper foil piece, which has plain
(i.e. non-patinaed) solder lines.  When I try using it like other patina
chemicals (i.e. put chemical on with a sponge, then wash off), it just
turns the solder line junky.  When I try to let the Jax patina air dry on
the solder prior to washing, it still looks yucky.  No green.  I then tried
a doulbe patina on the other side of the piece, whereby I first did a
copper patina on the solder line, then the Jax green.  Now I'm getting some
very, very spotty yucky green or blueish-green, but in no way is this even
remotely consistent.  I mean, I really hate what this patina has done (or
not done).

Anyone have any experience using Jax Green Patina successfully?  Anyone
know what I'm doing wrong, and can offer suggestions for helping me
accomplish a nice verdigris finish?

Thanks for all...Christie
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From owner-glass Wed May  7 07:23:32 1997
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Green patina help
Date: Wed, 07 May 1997 10:20:35 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May7.62035.0>
References: <<1997May7.4506.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo wrote:
> 
> Hi all Bungians.  Maybe someone here can help me with a problem.  I
> recently purchased some Jax Green Patina, and am not at all satisfied with
> the results.  I am trying it out on a copper foil piece, which has plain
> (i.e. non-patinaed) solder lines.  When I try using it like other patina
> chemicals (i.e. put chemical on with a sponge, then wash off), it just
> turns the solder line junky.  When I try to let the Jax patina air dry on
> the solder prior to washing, it still looks yucky.  No green.  I then tried
> a doulbe patina on the other side of the piece, whereby I first did a
> copper patina on the solder line, then the Jax green.  Now I'm getting some
> very, very spotty yucky green or blueish-green, but in no way is this even
> remotely consistent.  I mean, I really hate what this patina has done (or
> not done).
> 
> Anyone have any experience using Jax Green Patina successfully?  Anyone
> know what I'm doing wrong, and can offer suggestions for helping me
> accomplish a nice verdigris finish?
> 
> Thanks for all...Christie
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


well i have the stuff, same thing happened. when io asked about it, they
said it only works on copper, not copper patinaed, not even the stuff
they sell. you can make a green finish on real copper, or if you plated
the solder copper. Jax copper works real well, but it's hard to apply,
but the end result is very nice. it stays copper colored for a real long
time.

i found this out when doing the japanese garden, i must have applied
that stuff 6 times before giving up, i got a white'ish finsh in spots,
which i kept, giving it a antique look of it's own.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141

New Pages Added:

 - New Instructional Guides Added!!!
 - The Creative Process
 - How to Find Patterns for Suncatchers
 - Picking Out Glass in the Store

 - Plus New Photos
 - 5 New Pictures in the 3-D Catagory
 - 2 New Pictures in the Panel Catagory
 - Updated Shots of The Heart of Atlantis, and Japanese Garden

 - But That's Not All!!!
 - My Links Page is UP!
 - And Awards Page Too
----
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From owner-glass Wed May  7 07:43:20 1997
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From: gjr@bungi.com (Glenna Rand)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Subscriptions, etc.
Date: Wed, 7 May 1997 07:42:51 PDT
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Hi everyone,

Just a short note to let you all know I am not going to be here
till Monday morning.  Any subscription changes will have to wait till
then.  I am off to Canada for a family funeral.


-- 
Glenna Rand
gjr@bungi.com
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From owner-glass Wed May  7 08:30:49 1997
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From: Paula Nelson <pjnjril@ngai.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Green patina help
Date: Mon, 07 Apr 1997 10:02:44 -0500
Message-ID: <199705071531.KAA23726@email6.starnetinc.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

At 08:50 AM 5/7/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Hi all Bungians.  Maybe someone here can help me with a problem.  I
>recently purchased some Jax Green Patina, and am not at all satisfied with
>the results. 

I was under the impression that both the green and the brown *didn't* work
on solder... only onccopper or brass. Haven't used it or heard anything
else, sorry.


Paula
pjnjril@ngai.com
____________________
The Glass Dog Studio

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From owner-glass Wed May  7 08:58:29 1997
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From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@computer.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: About that Frank Lloyd Wright Conference
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@computer.net>
Date: Wed, 7 May 1997 12:04:31 +0000
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Ah, finally got the URL for the conference:

http://www.swcp.com/FLW/buffaloconf.html

All the info's there.

Albert

Albert Lewis, Executive Director
International Guild of Glass Artists
A 501(c)(6) nonprofit organization
Tonetta Lake Road, Brewster NY 10509
(914) 278-2152   Fax: (914) 278-2481
_________________________________________________________
http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/ [home page]
http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/guide.htm [Sources Guide]
http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/links.htm [Members' Work]

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From owner-glass Wed May  7 09:34:53 1997
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From: Paul Deutsch <beermug@snowcrest.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Re: cost for lessons
Date: Wed, 7 May 1997 09:33:39 -0700 (PDT)
Message-ID: <199705071633.JAA04251@mtshasta.snowcrest.net>
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Sue-our local shop charges a one-time $45 fee, for initial instruction in
cutting, fitting, and grinding for foil project, then $15 per month studio
fee plus $1 an hour shop use fee. No materials are included, but studio
tools are used for first project, except grinder head, student buys their
own.  All the tools the students use are kept just for students.  The studio
is basicallly a teaching studio and is open for students all the time.
----

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From owner-glass Wed May  7 09:59:19 1997
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From: charlie@az.stratus.com (Charles Spitzer)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: weights for lamps
Date: Wed, 7 May 97 9:58:42 MST
Message-ID: <m0wPA38-000LiCC@why.az.stratus.com>
References: <<1997May5.5740.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

'leestat7'
> 
> Hi Dorothy,
> 
> On the weighing of the lamp base-Lead fishing weights, and some Fitness
> Supply shops sell lead by the pound. Less expensive than solder for this
> purpose.

i needed some lead for my boat and found plenty at a local salvage yard. it
was about $.30/lb. you can probably find these in your local yellow pages.

-- 
Charles Spitzer
charlie@az.stratus.com
Customer Assistance Center
Stratus Computer, Inc.
Phoenix, AZ
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From owner-glass Wed May  7 10:03:05 1997
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From: Richard LaVal <rlaval@sol.racsa.co.cr>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: packing
Date: Wed, 7 May 1997 10:57:30 -0600 (CST)
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Dear Bungians;
        Someone recently asked about packing. (I am on another computor).
there was a very good article on this in the Summer '95 Stained Glass
Quarterly of the SGAA.  Meg

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From owner-glass Thu May  8 05:30:42 1997
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From: "Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: "INTERNET:glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: Green patina help
Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 08:02:01 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May8.421.0>
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Thanks for the info, Mike.  I thought I was doing something wrong.  Too bad
I bought two bottles of the stuff.
...Christie
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From owner-glass Thu May  8 06:02:51 1997
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From: leestat7 <leestat7@home.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Green patina help
Date: Thu, 08 May 1997 08:57:47 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May8.45747.0>
References: <<1997May8.421.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: @Home Network
Precedence: bulk

Hi Christie.

I just got some Jax Chemicals,also, this is what I plan to do to
experiment:
Construct a small copper foil panel for a 'test' subject.  About 8" x
8"to 10" small enough to be placed in the bottom of a flat Tupperware(or
similar) plastic container.  Don't have to be fancy, just 6-8 solder
lines, great use of 'scrap' glass too.

Clean panel well, soak in water/baking soda sol. to neutralize any flux
residue, rinse well and finish rinsing in distilled water.  Dry , and
then lay flat, use your blow dryer to finish drying each side.  Place
test
panel in bottom of plastic container.  While still hot from the blow
dryer, pour a little Jax Copper Plating solution over panel, enough to
cover whole panel with solution.  Take a dry bristle brush and brush
both sides.  (remember to wear rubber gloves) and ventilate.  (Read
ingred-this is not stuff you want to breath) 

 Remove test panel after it
has turned the color you want(it is now copper plated), rinse.  Dry and
finish
with blow dryer.  Pour remainder of sol. in separate clean plastic or
glass bottle (don't contaminate new sol.) Label(dangerous).  Now clean
and
dry plastic flat pan(plastic)or use a new one,preferably, put dry (and
still hot from blow dryer) panel back in, and pour over test panel the
Green Patina. Rub in with a dry bristle brush.  The inst. say the Green
Patina works only on copper, brass, and bronze. Also it contains Copper
Sulfate and Ammonium Chloride.  Both are nasty stuff-don't breath, get
on skin, etc.  Wear rubber gloves, and rubber apron, respirator would be
a good idea too. Put a heavy cream on your face and any exposed skin
areas, and wear splash goggles. 

Jax Copper plating Solutions says it
works on Iron, Steel, Brass, and solders. It has Copper Sulfate and
Sulfuric Acid in it (even more nasty). I also got the Silver Plating
solution, and the gold (imitation) plating sol. The Silver Plating sol.
works on copper, brass, bronze and silver. It also has Thiosulfate.  The
Gold finish solution works on brass, silver, and aluminum.  It contains
Sodium Hydroxide and Potassium Permanganate.  I suggest you visit
Mononna's pages (links from bungi.com Igga pages)at :

http://www.caseweb.com/acts/ 

and get some complete lessons on chemical safety handling procedures
before you try any of this.  My background is silver and goldsmithing,
and casting gold, silver, and some alloys,   so have some limited
knowledge in handling dangerous chemicals.  Caution, caution, caution.

>I recently purchased some Jax Green Patina, and am not at all satisfied with
> the results.  I am trying it out on a copper foil piece, which has plain
> (i.e. non-patinaed) solder lines. 
> 
> Anyone have any experience using Jax Green Patina successfully?  Anyone
> know what I'm doing wrong, and can offer suggestions for helping me
> accomplish a nice verdigris finish?

I always do a test panel (small) when testing new solutions, and often
construct a 'prototype' of a new 3D design I expect to make several of,
to work out the engineering kinks.

It will save a lot of time and frustration later.

Hope this helps you Christie, and any others out there that are trying
new chemicals.

Lee  Boe
Rain-Boe's Creations
----
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From owner-glass Thu May  8 07:24:47 1997
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From: Paula Nelson <pjnjril@ngai.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Sandblasting/etching
Date: Thu, 08 May 1997 08:55:46 -0500
Message-ID: <199705081425.JAA23505@email6.starnetinc.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I just found a shop near where I work that offers Sandblasting/Etching
classes, so I signed up. I got a taste of acid etching in a college course
that turned me against etching cremes (spotty coverage), but the potential
has pushed me towards blast etching ;) 

The class is 5 weeks for $75, and in asking, the shop has rental hours on
the blaster of $10 for 30 minutes. Is this a fairly competative rate; I
think I've heard this amount mentioned before... 


Paula
pjnjril@ngai.com
________________
The Glass Dog Studio

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From owner-glass Thu May  8 08:13:35 1997
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X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Green patina help
Date: Thu, 08 May 1997 11:09:45 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May8.7945.0>
References: <<1997May8.421.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo wrote:
> 
> Thanks for the info, Mike.  I thought I was doing something wrong.  Too bad
> I bought two bottles of the stuff.
> ...Christie
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


yeah i know..i applied it, waited, did it again, let it turn hazy, i
must have done it 6 times vefore giving up. it's decieving reall, the
copper says it'll plate some how with out electricity. and the green
says it will stick to copper plate, but i guess in this case it just
does'nt work. oh well. i suppose if you wanted to you can make a bunch
of weathered things. or you can by that expensive copper paint, the one
they sell in kit forms. you can paint over stuff, it seems to have a
copper suspension in it. they have alot of patina colors that go with
it, i'm tempted to by some and try out on my projects, but it's kind of
pricey. the bottles are about the same size as, say, novacan, but with
the price of Jax.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141

New Pages Added:

 - New Instructional Guides Added!!!
 - The Creative Process
 - How to Find Patterns for Suncatchers
 - Picking Out Glass in the Store

 - Plus New Photos
 - 5 New Pictures in the 3-D Catagory
 - 2 New Pictures in the Panel Catagory
 - Updated Shots of The Heart of Atlantis, and Japanese Garden

 - But That's Not All!!!
 - My Links Page is UP!
 - And Awards Page Too
----
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To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
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From owner-glass Thu May  8 08:16:59 1997
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Green patina help
Date: Thu, 08 May 1997 11:12:54 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May8.71254.0>
References: <<1997May8.45747.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

leestat7 wrote:
> 
> Hi Christie.
> 
> I just got some Jax Chemicals,also, this is what I plan to do to
> experiment:
> Construct a small copper foil panel for a 'test' subject.  About 8" x
> 8"to 10" small enough to be placed in the bottom of a flat Tupperware(or
> similar) plastic container.  Don't have to be fancy, just 6-8 solder
> lines, great use of 'scrap' glass too.
> 
> Clean panel well, soak in water/baking soda sol. to neutralize any flux
> residue, rinse well and finish rinsing in distilled water.  Dry , and
> then lay flat, use your blow dryer to finish drying each side.  Place
> test
> panel in bottom of plastic container.  While still hot from the blow
> dryer, pour a little Jax Copper Plating solution over panel, enough to
> cover whole panel with solution.  Take a dry bristle brush and brush
> both sides.  (remember to wear rubber gloves) and ventilate.  (Read
> ingred-this is not stuff you want to breath)
> 
>  Remove test panel after it
> has turned the color you want(it is now copper plated), rinse.  Dry and
> finish
> with blow dryer.  Pour remainder of sol. in separate clean plastic or
> glass bottle (don't contaminate new sol.) Label(dangerous).  Now clean
> and
> dry plastic flat pan(plastic)or use a new one,preferably, put dry (and
> still hot from blow dryer) panel back in, and pour over test panel the
> Green Patina. Rub in with a dry bristle brush.  The inst. say the Green
> Patina works only on copper, brass, and bronze. Also it contains Copper
> Sulfate and Ammonium Chloride.  Both are nasty stuff-don't breath, get
> on skin, etc.  Wear rubber gloves, and rubber apron, respirator would be
> a good idea too. Put a heavy cream on your face and any exposed skin
> areas, and wear splash goggles.
> 
> Jax Copper plating Solutions says it
> works on Iron, Steel, Brass, and solders. It has Copper Sulfate and
> Sulfuric Acid in it (even more nasty). I also got the Silver Plating
> solution, and the gold (imitation) plating sol. The Silver Plating sol.
> works on copper, brass, bronze and silver. It also has Thiosulfate.  The
> Gold finish solution works on brass, silver, and aluminum.  It contains
> Sodium Hydroxide and Potassium Permanganate.  I suggest you visit
> Mononna's pages (links from bungi.com Igga pages)at :
> 
> http://www.caseweb.com/acts/
> 
> and get some complete lessons on chemical safety handling procedures
> before you try any of this.  My background is silver and goldsmithing,
> and casting gold, silver, and some alloys,   so have some limited
> knowledge in handling dangerous chemicals.  Caution, caution, caution.
> 
> >I recently purchased some Jax Green Patina, and am not at all satisfied with
> > the results.  I am trying it out on a copper foil piece, which has plain
> > (i.e. non-patinaed) solder lines.
> >
> > Anyone have any experience using Jax Green Patina successfully?  Anyone
> > know what I'm doing wrong, and can offer suggestions for helping me
> > accomplish a nice verdigris finish?
> 
> I always do a test panel (small) when testing new solutions, and often
> construct a 'prototype' of a new 3D design I expect to make several of,
> to work out the engineering kinks.
> 
> It will save a lot of time and frustration later.
> 
> Hope this helps you Christie, and any others out there that are trying
> new chemicals.
> 
> Lee  Boe
> Rain-Boe's Creations
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


i found that if you clean the solder with denatured alcohol it leaves
the surface much cleaner, then soap. the copper came out real shiny just
by wiping the surface down first with the alchohol.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141

New Pages Added:

 - New Instructional Guides Added!!!
 - The Creative Process
 - How to Find Patterns for Suncatchers
 - Picking Out Glass in the Store

 - Plus New Photos
 - 5 New Pictures in the 3-D Catagory
 - 2 New Pictures in the Panel Catagory
 - Updated Shots of The Heart of Atlantis, and Japanese Garden

 - But That's Not All!!!
 - My Links Page is UP!
 - And Awards Page Too
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Thu May  8 08:20:46 1997
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	for rglass-42; Thu, 8 May 1997 08:18:49 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #7 built 1997-May-7)
X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: mail failed, returning to sender
Date: Thu, 08 May 1997 11:16:16 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May8.71616.0>
References: <<m0wPMdo-0000pKC@daver.bungi.com>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

> Charles Spitzer wrote:
> >
> > 'leestat7'
> > >
> > > Hi Dorothy,
> > >
> > > On the weighing of the lamp base-Lead fishing weights, and some Fitness
> > > Supply shops sell lead by the pound. Less expensive than solder for this
> > > purpose.
> >
> > i needed some lead for my boat and found plenty at a local salvage yard. it
> > was about $.30/lb. you can probably find these in your local yellow pages.
> >
> > --
> > Charles Spitzer
> > charlie@az.stratus.com
> > Customer Assistance Center
> > Stratus Computer, Inc.
> > Phoenix, AZ
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> 
> or maybe a stained glass shop, that deals with restorations. i know a
> friend of mine that has a bucket full of it due to all the lead he
> replace. i'm not sure why he has it, i'm assuming it has to do to the
> toxic side and recycling. you can try one of those shops for some,
> though it's is'nt all that pure; oxidation, and glazing cement.
> 
> ---Mike Savad
> 


i wrote the above in the response of the above, though i don't know if
it got into the list, so ignore it if you've read this. and if you
hav'nt ignore the first quote lines...


-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141

New Pages Added:

 - New Instructional Guides Added!!!
 - The Creative Process
 - How to Find Patterns for Suncatchers
 - Picking Out Glass in the Store

 - Plus New Photos
 - 5 New Pictures in the 3-D Catagory
 - 2 New Pictures in the Panel Catagory
 - Updated Shots of The Heart of Atlantis, and Japanese Garden

 - But That's Not All!!!
 - My Links Page is UP!
 - And Awards Page Too
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Thu May  8 08:20:58 1997
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	for rglass-42; Thu, 8 May 1997 08:19:22 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #7 built 1997-May-7)
X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: mail failed, returning to sender
Date: Thu, 08 May 1997 11:16:55 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May8.71655.0>
References: <<m0wPMde-00023XC@daver.bungi.com>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

MAILER-DAEMON@daver.bungi.com wrote:
> 
> |------------------------- Message log follows: -------------------------|
>  no valid recipients were found for this message
> |------------------------- Failed addresses follow: ---------------------|
>  <glass@bungi.com> ... unknown user
> |------------------------- Message text follows: ------------------------|
> Received: from othello(really [207.99.2.2]) by daver.bungi.com
>         via sendmail with smtp
>         id <m0wPE8w-00022TC@daver.bungi.com>
>         for <unknown>; Wed, 7 May 1997 14:20:58 -0700 (PDT)
>         (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #6 built 1997-May-7)
> Received: from [207.99.52.46] by othello (NTMail 3.02.13) with ESMTP id na570141 for <glass@bungi.com>; Wed, 7 May 1997 17:20:52 -0400
> Message-ID: <3370F1AC.38C7@nac.net>
> Date: Wed, 07 May 1997 17:18:36 -0400
> From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
> Reply-To: morn@nac.net
> X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.01 (Win95; I)
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> To: glass@bungi.com
> Subject: Re: Green patina help
> References: <199705071531.KAA23726@email6.starnetinc.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
> 
> Paula Nelson wrote:
> >
> > At 08:50 AM 5/7/97 -0400, you wrote:
> > >Hi all Bungians.  Maybe someone here can help me with a problem.  I
> > >recently purchased some Jax Green Patina, and am not at all satisfied with
> > >the results.
> >
> > I was under the impression that both the green and the brown *didn't* work
> > on solder... only onccopper or brass. Haven't used it or heard anything
> > else, sorry.
> >
> > Paula
> > pjnjril@ngai.com
> > ____________________
> > The Glass Dog Studio
> >
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> 
> brown patina does work on the copper patina they make, however it
> does'nt stick very well. like it'll turn sort of brown, more like a
> copper brown, and if you put tape on it, say to place a lid, the patina
> may flake off in spots.
> 
> ---Mike Savad


i wrote the above in the response of the above, though i don't know if
it got into the list, so ignore it if you've read this. and if you
hav'nt ignore the first quote lines...

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141

New Pages Added:

 - New Instructional Guides Added!!!
 - The Creative Process
 - How to Find Patterns for Suncatchers
 - Picking Out Glass in the Store

 - Plus New Photos
 - 5 New Pictures in the 3-D Catagory
 - 2 New Pictures in the Panel Catagory
 - Updated Shots of The Heart of Atlantis, and Japanese Garden

 - But That's Not All!!!
 - My Links Page is UP!
 - And Awards Page Too
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Thu May  8 08:37:26 1997
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	for rglass-42; Thu, 8 May 1997 05:25:26 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #7 built 1997-May-7)
X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: "INTERNET:glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: Green patina help
Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 08:02:01 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May8.421.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Thanks for the info, Mike.  I thought I was doing something wrong.  Too bad
I bought two bottles of the stuff.
...Christie
----
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To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Thu May  8 08:43:07 1997
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	for rglass-42; Thu, 8 May 1997 06:01:29 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #7 built 1997-May-7)
X-Path: home.com!leestat7
From: leestat7 <leestat7@home.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Green patina help
Date: Thu, 08 May 1997 08:57:47 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May8.45747.0>
References: <<1997May8.421.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: @Home Network
Precedence: bulk

Hi Christie.

I just got some Jax Chemicals,also, this is what I plan to do to
experiment:
Construct a small copper foil panel for a 'test' subject.  About 8" x
8"to 10" small enough to be placed in the bottom of a flat Tupperware(or
similar) plastic container.  Don't have to be fancy, just 6-8 solder
lines, great use of 'scrap' glass too.

Clean panel well, soak in water/baking soda sol. to neutralize any flux
residue, rinse well and finish rinsing in distilled water.  Dry , and
then lay flat, use your blow dryer to finish drying each side.  Place
test
panel in bottom of plastic container.  While still hot from the blow
dryer, pour a little Jax Copper Plating solution over panel, enough to
cover whole panel with solution.  Take a dry bristle brush and brush
both sides.  (remember to wear rubber gloves) and ventilate.  (Read
ingred-this is not stuff you want to breath) 

 Remove test panel after it
has turned the color you want(it is now copper plated), rinse.  Dry and
finish
with blow dryer.  Pour remainder of sol. in separate clean plastic or
glass bottle (don't contaminate new sol.) Label(dangerous).  Now clean
and
dry plastic flat pan(plastic)or use a new one,preferably, put dry (and
still hot from blow dryer) panel back in, and pour over test panel the
Green Patina. Rub in with a dry bristle brush.  The inst. say the Green
Patina works only on copper, brass, and bronze. Also it contains Copper
Sulfate and Ammonium Chloride.  Both are nasty stuff-don't breath, get
on skin, etc.  Wear rubber gloves, and rubber apron, respirator would be
a good idea too. Put a heavy cream on your face and any exposed skin
areas, and wear splash goggles. 

Jax Copper plating Solutions says it
works on Iron, Steel, Brass, and solders. It has Copper Sulfate and
Sulfuric Acid in it (even more nasty). I also got the Silver Plating
solution, and the gold (imitation) plating sol. The Silver Plating sol.
works on copper, brass, bronze and silver. It also has Thiosulfate.  The
Gold finish solution works on brass, silver, and aluminum.  It contains
Sodium Hydroxide and Potassium Permanganate.  I suggest you visit
Mononna's pages (links from bungi.com Igga pages)at :

http://www.caseweb.com/acts/ 

and get some complete lessons on chemical safety handling procedures
before you try any of this.  My background is silver and goldsmithing,
and casting gold, silver, and some alloys,   so have some limited
knowledge in handling dangerous chemicals.  Caution, caution, caution.

>I recently purchased some Jax Green Patina, and am not at all satisfied with
> the results.  I am trying it out on a copper foil piece, which has plain
> (i.e. non-patinaed) solder lines. 
> 
> Anyone have any experience using Jax Green Patina successfully?  Anyone
> know what I'm doing wrong, and can offer suggestions for helping me
> accomplish a nice verdigris finish?

I always do a test panel (small) when testing new solutions, and often
construct a 'prototype' of a new 3D design I expect to make several of,
to work out the engineering kinks.

It will save a lot of time and frustration later.

Hope this helps you Christie, and any others out there that are trying
new chemicals.

Lee  Boe
Rain-Boe's Creations
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Thu May  8 09:01:08 1997
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	for rglass-42; Thu, 8 May 1997 07:23:12 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #7 built 1997-May-7)
X-Path: ngai.com!pjnjril
From: Paula Nelson <pjnjril@ngai.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Sandblasting/etching
Date: Thu, 08 May 1997 08:55:46 -0500
Message-ID: <199705081425.JAA23505@email6.starnetinc.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I just found a shop near where I work that offers Sandblasting/Etching
classes, so I signed up. I got a taste of acid etching in a college course
that turned me against etching cremes (spotty coverage), but the potential
has pushed me towards blast etching ;) 

The class is 5 weeks for $75, and in asking, the shop has rental hours on
the blaster of $10 for 30 minutes. Is this a fairly competative rate; I
think I've heard this amount mentioned before... 


Paula
pjnjril@ngai.com
________________
The Glass Dog Studio

----
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To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Thu May  8 09:10:53 1997
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	for rglass-42; Thu, 8 May 1997 08:12:08 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #7 built 1997-May-7)
X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Green patina help
Date: Thu, 08 May 1997 11:09:45 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May8.7945.0>
References: <<1997May8.421.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo wrote:
> 
> Thanks for the info, Mike.  I thought I was doing something wrong.  Too bad
> I bought two bottles of the stuff.
> ...Christie
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


yeah i know..i applied it, waited, did it again, let it turn hazy, i
must have done it 6 times vefore giving up. it's decieving reall, the
copper says it'll plate some how with out electricity. and the green
says it will stick to copper plate, but i guess in this case it just
does'nt work. oh well. i suppose if you wanted to you can make a bunch
of weathered things. or you can by that expensive copper paint, the one
they sell in kit forms. you can paint over stuff, it seems to have a
copper suspension in it. they have alot of patina colors that go with
it, i'm tempted to by some and try out on my projects, but it's kind of
pricey. the bottles are about the same size as, say, novacan, but with
the price of Jax.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141

New Pages Added:

 - New Instructional Guides Added!!!
 - The Creative Process
 - How to Find Patterns for Suncatchers
 - Picking Out Glass in the Store

 - Plus New Photos
 - 5 New Pictures in the 3-D Catagory
 - 2 New Pictures in the Panel Catagory
 - Updated Shots of The Heart of Atlantis, and Japanese Garden

 - But That's Not All!!!
 - My Links Page is UP!
 - And Awards Page Too
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Thu May  8 09:22:42 1997
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	for rglass-42; Thu, 8 May 1997 08:15:24 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #7 built 1997-May-7)
X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Green patina help
Date: Thu, 08 May 1997 11:12:54 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May8.71254.0>
References: <<1997May8.45747.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

leestat7 wrote:
> 
> Hi Christie.
> 
> I just got some Jax Chemicals,also, this is what I plan to do to
> experiment:
> Construct a small copper foil panel for a 'test' subject.  About 8" x
> 8"to 10" small enough to be placed in the bottom of a flat Tupperware(or
> similar) plastic container.  Don't have to be fancy, just 6-8 solder
> lines, great use of 'scrap' glass too.
> 
> Clean panel well, soak in water/baking soda sol. to neutralize any flux
> residue, rinse well and finish rinsing in distilled water.  Dry , and
> then lay flat, use your blow dryer to finish drying each side.  Place
> test
> panel in bottom of plastic container.  While still hot from the blow
> dryer, pour a little Jax Copper Plating solution over panel, enough to
> cover whole panel with solution.  Take a dry bristle brush and brush
> both sides.  (remember to wear rubber gloves) and ventilate.  (Read
> ingred-this is not stuff you want to breath)
> 
>  Remove test panel after it
> has turned the color you want(it is now copper plated), rinse.  Dry and
> finish
> with blow dryer.  Pour remainder of sol. in separate clean plastic or
> glass bottle (don't contaminate new sol.) Label(dangerous).  Now clean
> and
> dry plastic flat pan(plastic)or use a new one,preferably, put dry (and
> still hot from blow dryer) panel back in, and pour over test panel the
> Green Patina. Rub in with a dry bristle brush.  The inst. say the Green
> Patina works only on copper, brass, and bronze. Also it contains Copper
> Sulfate and Ammonium Chloride.  Both are nasty stuff-don't breath, get
> on skin, etc.  Wear rubber gloves, and rubber apron, respirator would be
> a good idea too. Put a heavy cream on your face and any exposed skin
> areas, and wear splash goggles.
> 
> Jax Copper plating Solutions says it
> works on Iron, Steel, Brass, and solders. It has Copper Sulfate and
> Sulfuric Acid in it (even more nasty). I also got the Silver Plating
> solution, and the gold (imitation) plating sol. The Silver Plating sol.
> works on copper, brass, bronze and silver. It also has Thiosulfate.  The
> Gold finish solution works on brass, silver, and aluminum.  It contains
> Sodium Hydroxide and Potassium Permanganate.  I suggest you visit
> Mononna's pages (links from bungi.com Igga pages)at :
> 
> http://www.caseweb.com/acts/
> 
> and get some complete lessons on chemical safety handling procedures
> before you try any of this.  My background is silver and goldsmithing,
> and casting gold, silver, and some alloys,   so have some limited
> knowledge in handling dangerous chemicals.  Caution, caution, caution.
> 
> >I recently purchased some Jax Green Patina, and am not at all satisfied with
> > the results.  I am trying it out on a copper foil piece, which has plain
> > (i.e. non-patinaed) solder lines.
> >
> > Anyone have any experience using Jax Green Patina successfully?  Anyone
> > know what I'm doing wrong, and can offer suggestions for helping me
> > accomplish a nice verdigris finish?
> 
> I always do a test panel (small) when testing new solutions, and often
> construct a 'prototype' of a new 3D design I expect to make several of,
> to work out the engineering kinks.
> 
> It will save a lot of time and frustration later.
> 
> Hope this helps you Christie, and any others out there that are trying
> new chemicals.
> 
> Lee  Boe
> Rain-Boe's Creations
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


i found that if you clean the solder with denatured alcohol it leaves
the surface much cleaner, then soap. the copper came out real shiny just
by wiping the surface down first with the alchohol.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141

New Pages Added:

 - New Instructional Guides Added!!!
 - The Creative Process
 - How to Find Patterns for Suncatchers
 - Picking Out Glass in the Store

 - Plus New Photos
 - 5 New Pictures in the 3-D Catagory
 - 2 New Pictures in the Panel Catagory
 - Updated Shots of The Heart of Atlantis, and Japanese Garden

 - But That's Not All!!!
 - My Links Page is UP!
 - And Awards Page Too
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Thu May  8 09:24:28 1997
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Received: by daver.bungi.com
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	for rglass-42; Thu, 8 May 1997 08:18:49 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #7 built 1997-May-7)
X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: mail failed, returning to sender
Date: Thu, 08 May 1997 11:16:16 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May8.71616.0>
References: <<m0wPMdo-0000pKC@daver.bungi.com>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

> Charles Spitzer wrote:
> >
> > 'leestat7'
> > >
> > > Hi Dorothy,
> > >
> > > On the weighing of the lamp base-Lead fishing weights, and some Fitness
> > > Supply shops sell lead by the pound. Less expensive than solder for this
> > > purpose.
> >
> > i needed some lead for my boat and found plenty at a local salvage yard. it
> > was about $.30/lb. you can probably find these in your local yellow pages.
> >
> > --
> > Charles Spitzer
> > charlie@az.stratus.com
> > Customer Assistance Center
> > Stratus Computer, Inc.
> > Phoenix, AZ
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> 
> or maybe a stained glass shop, that deals with restorations. i know a
> friend of mine that has a bucket full of it due to all the lead he
> replace. i'm not sure why he has it, i'm assuming it has to do to the
> toxic side and recycling. you can try one of those shops for some,
> though it's is'nt all that pure; oxidation, and glazing cement.
> 
> ---Mike Savad
> 


i wrote the above in the response of the above, though i don't know if
it got into the list, so ignore it if you've read this. and if you
hav'nt ignore the first quote lines...


-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141

New Pages Added:

 - New Instructional Guides Added!!!
 - The Creative Process
 - How to Find Patterns for Suncatchers
 - Picking Out Glass in the Store

 - Plus New Photos
 - 5 New Pictures in the 3-D Catagory
 - 2 New Pictures in the Panel Catagory
 - Updated Shots of The Heart of Atlantis, and Japanese Garden

 - But That's Not All!!!
 - My Links Page is UP!
 - And Awards Page Too
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Thu May  8 09:30:43 1997
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Received: by daver.bungi.com
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	for rglass-42; Thu, 8 May 1997 08:19:22 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #7 built 1997-May-7)
X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
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Date: Thu, 08 May 1997 11:16:55 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May8.71655.0>
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MAILER-DAEMON@daver.bungi.com wrote:
> 
> |------------------------- Message log follows: -------------------------|
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> Date: Wed, 07 May 1997 17:18:36 -0400
> From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
> Reply-To: morn@nac.net
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> To: glass@bungi.com
> Subject: Re: Green patina help
> References: <199705071531.KAA23726@email6.starnetinc.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
> 
> Paula Nelson wrote:
> >
> > At 08:50 AM 5/7/97 -0400, you wrote:
> > >Hi all Bungians.  Maybe someone here can help me with a problem.  I
> > >recently purchased some Jax Green Patina, and am not at all satisfied with
> > >the results.
> >
> > I was under the impression that both the green and the brown *didn't* work
> > on solder... only onccopper or brass. Haven't used it or heard anything
> > else, sorry.
> >
> > Paula
> > pjnjril@ngai.com
> > ____________________
> > The Glass Dog Studio
> >
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> 
> brown patina does work on the copper patina they make, however it
> does'nt stick very well. like it'll turn sort of brown, more like a
> copper brown, and if you put tape on it, say to place a lid, the patina
> may flake off in spots.
> 
> ---Mike Savad


i wrote the above in the response of the above, though i don't know if
it got into the list, so ignore it if you've read this. and if you
hav'nt ignore the first quote lines...

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141

New Pages Added:

 - New Instructional Guides Added!!!
 - The Creative Process
 - How to Find Patterns for Suncatchers
 - Picking Out Glass in the Store

 - Plus New Photos
 - 5 New Pictures in the 3-D Catagory
 - 2 New Pictures in the Panel Catagory
 - Updated Shots of The Heart of Atlantis, and Japanese Garden

 - But That's Not All!!!
 - My Links Page is UP!
 - And Awards Page Too
----
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From owner-glass Thu May  8 13:47:21 1997
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From: George & Gloria <3hounds@usaor.net>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
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Subject: Mail Failures
Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 16:48:54 -0100
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Is anyone else experiencing mail failures.. Tried to send to yesterday =
5/7 but was returned.. Well, anyways this is what I asked.
On 5/16 we are going to Rodger's Flea Market.. Are there any bungians =
who have a retail store or who would recommend a Stained Glass store in =
the area.. This is located close to East Liverpool, Ohio, on Route 7..  =
Would enjoy seeing a new store outside of my Butler, PA location..

Also, do you know if they make 5/32 copper foil backed in silver and/or =
black... I have the copper, but would still like to stay with the others =
for final finishing purposes.. Did not want to take the time to trim  =
3/16.. Doing very small pieces and the glass is slightly thinner than =
the usual.
Thanks,
Gloria

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From owner-glass Thu May  8 14:08:05 1997
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From: George & Gloria <3hounds@usaor.net>
To: "'LJ Maas'" <artist@busprod.com>, "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: RE: Swan pattern
Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 16:55:37 -0100
Message-ID: <1997May8.155537.0>
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Hi,
Also there is a nice swan pattern from Delphi.. It is a swan with a lily pad with flower.. They have a colored picture in their catalog.
Gloria

----------
From:  LJ Maas[SMTP:artist@busprod.com]
Sent:  Tuesday, May 06, 1997 12:29 PM
To:  glass@bungi.com
Subject:  Re: Swan pattern

>Hi, I'm usually just a lurker here, but anyone advise me where I can
>find a nice pattern of a swan?  Thanks, Meigan

Meigan...There's a nice swan among the reeds in a pattern book called: "200
Design Ideas For Stained Glass," by Mark & Susan Walton. CKE Publications.
I've never been a "swan lover," but this pattern has a certain serenity to
it. Hope this helps...LJ

  ****************************************************************
LJ Maas: artist@busprod.com
ART WITH ATTITUDE Stained Glass Design
"Unique Stained Glass Creations"
<http://www.art-with-attitude.com/glass/artglass.html>

OVER THE RAINBOW Webpage Design & Consulting
<http://www.art-with-attitude.com/rainbow.html>
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From owner-glass Thu May  8 14:27:41 1997
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Mail Failures
Date: Thu, 08 May 1997 17:22:20 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May8.132220.0>
References: <<1997May8.154854.0>>
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George & Gloria wrote:
> 
> Is anyone else experiencing mail failures.. Tried to send to yesterday =
> 5/7 but was returned.. Well, anyways this is what I asked.
> On 5/16 we are going to Rodger's Flea Market.. Are there any bungians =
> who have a retail store or who would recommend a Stained Glass store in =
> the area.. This is located close to East Liverpool, Ohio, on Route 7..  =
> Would enjoy seeing a new store outside of my Butler, PA location..
> 
> Also, do you know if they make 5/32 copper foil backed in silver and/or =
> black... I have the copper, but would still like to stay with the others =
> for final finishing purposes.. Did not want to take the time to trim  =
> 3/16.. Doing very small pieces and the glass is slightly thinner than =
> the usual.
> Thanks,
> Gloria
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


yeah i'm having a bunch of mail problems too... and for the foil, i
think they make a size in every color..

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141

New Pages Added:

 - New Instructional Guides Added!!!
 - The Creative Process
 - How to Find Patterns for Suncatchers
 - Picking Out Glass in the Store

 - Plus New Photos
 - 5 New Pictures in the 3-D Catagory
 - 2 New Pictures in the Panel Catagory
 - Updated Shots of The Heart of Atlantis, and Japanese Garden

 - But That's Not All!!!
 - My Links Page is UP!
 - And Awards Page Too
----
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To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Thu May  8 15:48:04 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!ItsAlison
From: ItsAlison@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Mail Failures
Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 18:47:11 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <1997May8.144711.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I have only seen both black-backed  and silver-backed copper foil in the 3/32
width.
Have you checked with Warner-Crivellaro or Delphi...who both mail order
supplies?
They have web sites on the internet (not sure of the addresses)
----
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From owner-glass Thu May  8 17:16:20 1997
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X-Path: mail.nildram.co.uk!glass
From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: An interesting request
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@mail.nildram.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 9 May 1997 00:21:50 +0000
Message-ID: <199705090014.BAA26634@linux.nildram.co.uk>
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Hi all Bunginians,

In my e-mail mailbag recently, I received below request. It intrigued 
me. I responded a couple of time, pointing out that I was actually 
located in UK and was I the right person to help.  The replies I 
received were very friendly and apologetic.  The whole tone of the 
correspondence made me feel confident in turning to the wonderful 
resources of my friends at Bungi:
Any suggestions in response to the below please, other than sources I 
can offer in Europe.....??????
Here goes:

Hello, I am an editor with the Salvation Army, and I am searching for a
picture of stained glass that I can use for a cover of the magazine for which
I work. I am looking for a stained glass art that shows beautiful refractions
of light, and suggesting a sense of cubism as that light streams forth. We
want to superimpose on this glass a side view of a simple creche, indicating
that the "King to a manger borne," that is, Christ was born in humble
beginnings but has a great destiny. 

Do you have anything that might apply. I realize this is a strange request,
but if you do not have anything, can you recommend a source?

thanks

Jeff McDonald
Managing Editor
Salvation Army National Publications USA

END OF QUOTE
On/Off Group replies and suggestions very welcome.
Elisabeth 'n Toby
----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
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From owner-glass Thu May  8 17:16:55 1997
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: UPDATE - HEALTH & SAFETY
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@mail.nildram.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 9 May 1997 00:21:50 +0000
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Dear Bunginians.

I think it must have been November 1996 when I promised you an 
up-date in "early" 1997 about my  campaign for justice and 
compensation for my friend Susan - who had to take early retirement 
on grounds of ill health as Head of Arts in an English Secondary 
School. Some of you have actually met her in person. She has been 
instrumental in helping me to over-come my "fear" of drawing.
The School where she worked was very haphazard in  making HER working 
onditions safe and healthy. In the last 3 yers of her working career, 
she was so ill that I had to physically carry her up and down to her 
bedroom, prepare liquidized food for her twice every day, sit with 
her all night because she couldn't breathe and was frightened.
Life was pure Hell for her, it was also hell for me.
Her salvation was her living in this village a few doors away from me 
and her chocolate-brown enormous poodle  puppy "Rupert" who forced 
her out into the country-side walking.
Elisabeth, being Elisabeth, got the "bit" between her teeth and 
decided that "someone" was responsible for all of this.

Through the immense warmth, well-wishes, suggestions, help and NOT 
least the guidance of Monona,  Bunginians rose to the occasions and 
poured in with help, advice and guidance about Health & Safety. I 
have accummulated MSDS-Sheets amounting to 3 inches in thickness of 
all the obnoxious substances that could/would/did make Susan so ill  
that she could no longer carry on her work - to which she made great 
contributions and to which she had dedicated her life.
Since I last posted information into the Group about the 
developments, Susan has been appearing in front of one Government 
Medical Examination Board after another, ALL producing voluminous 
written reports about their findings.  The conclusion IS, that her 
working environment has positively and definitely CAUSED her illness.
The National Union of Teachers in UK has taken on her cause and is 
paying the bill. THEY have decided that her cause is a fair, just and 
real one. To persuade THEM is quite a monumental achievement.

So what is the situation TODAY???
It is,  that in the next few days that Susann's old School will be 
served a summons to appear before Court to answer a very carefully 
researched and documented case of Health & Safety negligence. In the 
last few days I have been working on legal papers that have been very 
searching, attempting to "cross all the 'tees' and dotting all the 
'is'. The School is now officially sued for compensation. Susan will 
probably have to appear for even MORE medical examinations, demanded 
by the School (though from now on, she is well rehearsed....). My aim 
is to get a financial compensation for her amounting to 15 years of 
residual salary + annual increments, + compensation for possible 
loss of promotion + damage to physical health etc.
On the whole, in UK, people just accept, lie down and die. WHO can 
argue with the establishment??          I DO and I WILL.

It's quite comforting to take onboard the fact that the UK National Union of 
Teachers agree with me and are willing to put their hands in their 
pocket to prove it. I would not have got THIS far, had it not been 
for the immense support, guidance, advice and encouragement from you 
LOT!! Thank you!
I have filled in a little bit for the benefit of "new" Bunginians. To 
The Old Brigade - again Thank You!!!
A Writ is being served in these next few days on the School.
What is a difference between a solicitor and a barrister..... and so 
on. I will answer these questions too to each of you.  I am a 
foreigner here too.
The daggers are now drawn. I do not intend for Susan to lose.
I will let you All know, when I have a next development.
So far, so good.
Thank you - once more.
Elisabeth 'n Toby
----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
----
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From owner-glass Thu May  8 20:14:05 1997
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X-Path: juno.com!dariece
From: dariece@juno.com (Dariece G. McClure)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Dariece: Fireplace Screen Dollar Value
Date: Thu, 08 May 1997 23:09:40 EDT
Message-ID: <1997May9.3940.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


Hi there, I am new to this sight and fairly new to stained glass. I am
getting ready to make a fireplace screen for someone. I was wondering if
anyone could give me a minimum amount($) I should ask. I know that there
are a lot of variables involved. The screen will be a single screen, no
side panels. They are still trying to decide on a design, but I don't
foresee anything too complicated from what they have told me so far.
Thanks for your help. 

Dariece

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From owner-glass Thu May  8 23:01:31 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!JJKIRBY
From: JJKIRBY@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: pouring concrete:
Date: Fri, 9 May 1997 02:00:38 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <1997May8.22038.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

In a message dated 97-05-04 15:54:33 EDT, you write:

<< When a beam which is supported at
both ends is loaded midway between the supports, 
the beam bends down in the
 middle >>

I was thinking about a glass concrete project where 
I would make a celtic cross.   I was intending to 
use reinforcing bars for strength particularly in the
arms.  I think one problem with rebar is rust and 
water causing the concrete to degrade.

suggestion?



 
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From owner-glass Fri May  9 01:59:25 1997
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X-Path: computer.net!alewis
From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@computer.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: UPDATE - HEALTH & SAFETY
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@computer.net>
Date: Fri, 9 May 1997 05:04:00 +0000
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> The daggers are now drawn. 

Bully for you, Elisabeth, and cheers!

Albert

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From owner-glass Fri May  9 05:24:48 1997
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X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: "Dariece G. McClure" <dariece@juno.com>, Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Dariece: Fireplace Screen Dollar Value
Date: Fri, 9 May 1997 08:23:06 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May9.4236.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

At a wholesale show I attended, some stained glass fireplace screens being
offered for sale were going for $500 - $2500.  That's wholesale prices.  So
double the figure for retail price.  Now, mind you, these were absolutely
beautiful screens made with very expensive glass, bevel clusters, and high
workmanship, with everything beautifully done.  In fact, they won best of
show in the professional crafts competition, even beating out jewelry and
silks and ceramics.  But this can give you an idea of what high-end
fireplace screens are going for.  I've also seen a couple for sale in
high-end retail gift stores in tourist places, where a single screen was
going for $1050 retail.  Again, it was very, very nice design with
beautiful glass.
...Christie
----
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From owner-glass Fri May  9 05:24:48 1997
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From: "Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: leestat7 <leestat7@home.com>, "[unknown]" <GLASS@BUNGI.COM>
Subject: Re: Green patina help
Date: Fri, 9 May 1997 08:23:03 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May9.4233.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Message text written by leestat7
>Jax Copper Plating solution<

Lee;

Thanks for the detailed info.  I didn't know about using the Jax Copper
Plating solution.  I shall purchase some and try out your directions for a
test.  I do have a respirator and rubber gloves and will use them when
doing this experiment.

...Christie
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From owner-glass Fri May  9 05:53:58 1997
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From: "M.-J. Taylor" <athena@bridge.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: pouring concrete:
Date: Fri, 09 May 1997 08:57:40 -0400
Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.19970509085740.006a3764@pop.bridge.net>
References: <<1997May8.22038.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


If rebar is put into concrete before there is rust on it, it's very
unlikely to rust as long as water and air can't get to it. So, a
waterproofing sealer should be applied to the finished project. For added
insurance, rebar can be coated with an epoxy.

M.-J.


Previous post:

><< When a beam which is supported at
>both ends is loaded midway between the supports, 
>the beam bends down in the
> middle >>
>
>I was thinking about a glass concrete project where 
>I would make a celtic cross.   I was intending to 
>use reinforcing bars for strength particularly in the
>arms.  I think one problem with rebar is rust and 
>water causing the concrete to degrade.
>
>suggestion?
>
>
>
> 
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
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>
>
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From owner-glass Fri May  9 06:19:58 1997
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X-Path: memach.com!lcbell
From: Linda Campbell <lcbell@memach.com>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="---- =_NextPart_000_01BC5C5A.1AF66A60"
Subject: RE: pouring concrete:
Date: Fri, 9 May 1997 09:19:30 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May9.51930.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


------ =_NextPart_000_01BC5C5A.1AF66A60
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Uh, I'm not a civil engineer but I have some experience with reinforced =
concrete blocks for docking ships. It's my understanding that the rust =
or oxidation on the rebar actually helps to meld the concrete to the =
rebar and strengthens it. You do NOT want to put epoxy coating on the =
rebar. Ever see them put rebar in roadway beds? That stuff is orange =
with a coat of oxidation, on purpose. If you rebar is imbedded in the =
concrete the rust that may occur internally will never show unless you =
develope hairline cracks, in which case you have a problem anyway, =
either with overloading or with the method of mixing and curing the =
cement.

Linda Campbell=20

If rebar is put into concrete before there is rust on it, it's very
unlikely to rust as long as water and air can't get to it. So, a
waterproofing sealer should be applied to the finished project. For =
added
insurance, rebar can be coated with an epoxy.

M.-J.

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From owner-glass Fri May  9 08:04:36 1997
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X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: pouring concrete:
Date: Fri, 09 May 1997 11:00:24 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May9.7024.0>
References: <<1997May8.22038.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

JJKIRBY@aol.com wrote:
> 
> In a message dated 97-05-04 15:54:33 EDT, you write:
> 
> << When a beam which is supported at
> both ends is loaded midway between the supports,
> the beam bends down in the
>  middle >>
> 
> I was thinking about a glass concrete project where
> I would make a celtic cross.   I was intending to
> use reinforcing bars for strength particularly in the
> arms.  I think one problem with rebar is rust and
> water causing the concrete to degrade.
> 
> suggestion?
> 
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

re-bar should be fine. you may want to get a basic book on masonry to
show you what the proper way to install it though.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141

New Pages Added:

 - New Instructional Guides Added!!!
 - The Creative Process
 - How to Find Patterns for Suncatchers
 - Picking Out Glass in the Store

 - Plus New Photos
 - 5 New Pictures in the 3-D Catagory
 - 2 New Pictures in the Panel Catagory
 - Updated Shots of The Heart of Atlantis, and Japanese Garden

 - But That's Not All!!!
 - My Links Page is UP!
 - And Awards Page Too
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From owner-glass Fri May  9 08:10:17 1997
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X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: pouring concrete:
Date: Fri, 09 May 1997 11:06:20 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May9.7620.0>
References: <<1997May9.51930.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Linda Campbell wrote:
> 
> Uh, I'm not a civil engineer but I have some experience with reinforced concrete blocks for docking ships. It's my understanding that the rust or oxidation on the rebar actually helps to meld the concrete to the rebar and strengthens it. You do NOT want to put epoxy coating on the rebar. Ever see them put rebar in roadway beds? That stuff is orange with a coat of oxidation, on purpose. If you rebar is imbedded in the concrete the rust that may occur internally will never show unless you develope
> 


it's only rusted bucause they left it out in the rain, it would be to
expensive to coat all the rebar. when they make footings for beach fron
property, they stick in thick rebar with a plastic coating to prevent
rusting. the little bumps that stick out of the bar hold it in place.
generall if the bar rust the cement could start breaking down.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141

New Pages Added:

 - New Instructional Guides Added!!!
 - The Creative Process
 - How to Find Patterns for Suncatchers
 - Picking Out Glass in the Store

 - Plus New Photos
 - 5 New Pictures in the 3-D Catagory
 - 2 New Pictures in the Panel Catagory
 - Updated Shots of The Heart of Atlantis, and Japanese Garden

 - But That's Not All!!!
 - My Links Page is UP!
 - And Awards Page Too
----
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From owner-glass Fri May  9 08:14:53 1997
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X-Path: bridge.net!athena
From: "M.-J. Taylor" <athena@bridge.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: RE: pouring concrete:
Date: Fri, 09 May 1997 11:18:36 -0400
Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.19970509111836.006c68e4@pop.bridge.net>
References: <<1997May9.51930.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Gee, I think this is a matter of opinion, not fact. My husband, who builds
houses for a living, says it's done both ways. Some oxidation does
facilitate the bond between concrete and rebar ... but also increases the
likelihood that the rebar will continue to rust and eventually create more
problems ... so some concrete builders *do* coat the rebar with epoxy. 

We just had three walls rebuilt in our house and we discussed, at length,
whether we wanted to take the time and money to do just that ...we decided
against it, for cost purposes ... opting instead to time the delivery of
the rebar with the pouring of the concrete so that oxidation would not occur.

Just a different way of doing things ... all these are options ... not hard
and fast rules ... 

>Uh, I'm not a civil engineer but I have some experience with reinforced =
>concrete blocks for docking ships. It's my understanding that the rust =
>or oxidation on the rebar actually helps to meld the concrete to the =
>rebar and strengthens it. You do NOT want to put epoxy coating on the =
>rebar. Ever see them put rebar in roadway beds? That stuff is orange =
>with a coat of oxidation, on purpose. If you rebar is imbedded in the =
>concrete the rust that may occur internally will never show unless you =
>develope hairline cracks, in which case you have a problem anyway, =
>either with overloading or with the method of mixing and curing the =
>cement.
>
>Linda Campbell=20
>
>If rebar is put into concrete before there is rust on it, it's very
>unlikely to rust as long as water and air can't get to it. So, a
>waterproofing sealer should be applied to the finished project. For =
>added
>insurance, rebar can be coated with an epoxy.
>
>
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From owner-glass Fri May  9 08:21:13 1997
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X-Path: memach.com!lcbell
From: Linda Campbell <lcbell@memach.com>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Just a Test
Date: Fri, 9 May 1997 11:18:53 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May9.71853.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Just a test folks to see if my sysop has solved the problem of getting =
rid of all the gibberish I was sending. Thanks for the patience. Linda

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From owner-glass Fri May  9 08:33:58 1997
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X-Path: nortel.ca!rstoker
From: "Richard Stoker" <rstoker@nortel.ca>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: re:Green patina help?
Date: 09 May 1997 11:29 EDT
Message-ID: <m0wPrel-0000dGC@daver.bungi.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

The only suggestion I can offer is that Joe Porcelli (he of Glass 
Craftsman and lampmaking fame) has a video out wherin he uses the Jax 
stuff to produce the classic green patina on a lamp.  His "secret" (which 
I have never tried to duplicate) is that he uses a "special" Copper 
patina which actually deposits copper onto the lead line (so he says).  
Now, where one gets this special copper patina is the big mystery. 
Perhaps it comes from JAX as well, though I have had a devil of a time 
trying to locate a wholesaler who stocks the stuff. (Even Ed Hoys, who 
claims to have every stained glass item known to mankind does not have it 
listed in their catalog).  To be frank, I have never contacted JAX 
directly, given that I do not have an immediate need for the stuff.  

Perhaps someone else (or even Joe himself, as he has been known to peruse 
these pages from time to time) might explain just what the "special" 
copper patina is, so the rest of us might thereby have access to the 
bronze-brown finishes that Tiffany and others employed so well. Any 
takers?

Regards,
Richard Stoker
Turtle Bay Studios
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From owner-glass Fri May  9 09:28:13 1997
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X-Path: pilot.msu.edu!wrightk5
From: kristen <wrightk5@pilot.msu.edu>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Green patina help?
Date: Fri, 09 May 1997 11:31:22 -0700
Message-ID: <1997May9.43122.0>
References: <<m0wPrel-0000dGC@daver.bungi.com>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

If you go to a creaf store (
michales here has it), they have a finish that is like the finish from
oddsey where you first turn the project copper then brown then green.
The difference is the price is lower for the "craft patina" and you only
turn the project copper then green. Check the area that has patinas for
turning picture frames a patina green. Be careful because ther is also a
similar product that is a paint and not a patina. I make no clame fo
rthe copper topper because I have not used it, however when I have used
the patina green is has worked about the same as Jax green patina.
The official priduct names are 
Copper Topper and Patina Green
by Mondern options
2325 third street S.F., CA 94107

-- 
[ Kristen                                                      ]       
[ wrightk5@pilot.msu.edu                                       ]
[                                                              ]
[ I speak for my self and only represent everything that I am. ]
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From owner-glass Fri May  9 10:39:41 1997
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	for rglass-42; Fri, 9 May 1997 10:37:46 -0700 (PDT)
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X-Path: compuserve.com!GreerStudios
From: "Michael J. Greer" <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: All <GLASS@BUNGI.COM>
Subject: Copy of: Dariece: Fireplace Screen Dollar Value
Date: Fri, 9 May 1997 13:36:33 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May9.93633.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


---------- Forwarded Message ----------

From:   Michael J. Greer, 105715,1412
TO:     Dariece G. McClure, INTERNET:dariece@juno.com
DATE:   5/9/97 11:21 AM

RE:     Copy of: Dariece: Fireplace Screen Dollar Value

Hi Dariece-

Will this be a "summer" screen to mask the fireplace when it's not being
used?  We've always been really leery of doing glass screens, just because
of the liability - what happens if it sits in front of a really good hot
fire for a few hours and it decides to explode?  We had a colleague who did
lovely sand-carved screens, sold them like hotcakes for $600-900, until one
blew.  No one was hurt, no one sued, but....  just something to consider.
Anyone else had any experiences with this situation?

Best regards,

Dani Greer

Greer Gallery & Studios
603 W. Colorado Ave.
Colorado Springs, CO  80905

Phone (719)444-0409
E-mail  GreerStudios@compuserve.com
Website  http://eme.usa.net/greerstudios/ 
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From owner-glass Fri May  9 11:50:46 1997
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X-Path: home.com!leestat7
From: leestat7 <leestat7@home.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Just a Test
Date: Fri, 09 May 1997 14:46:32 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May9.104632.0>
References: <<1997May9.71853.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: @Home Network
Precedence: bulk

Hi Linda,
May have worked, did not get the winmail.dat file along with the below
this time.  Thanks 

Lee Boe

Linda Campbell wrote:
> 
> Just a test folks to see if my sysop has solved the problem of getting =
> rid of all the gibberish I was sending. Thanks for the patience. Linda
----
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From owner-glass Fri May  9 12:03:57 1997
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From: leestat7 <leestat7@home.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Green patina help?
Date: Fri, 09 May 1997 15:00:00 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May9.1100.0>
References: <<m0wPrel-0000dGC@daver.bungi.com>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: @Home Network
Precedence: bulk

Hi,

See my prior message, JAX sells direct, In fact when I ordered, Jacques
Simons himself answered the phone and took the order.  It was lunch time
there when I called.   He was most helpful,and said to call if I needed
help.  The instructions on the bottles are very complete.  Use the
copper plating (plating-not patina) solution (which adheers to the
lead/tin solder). Then the green patina which works on the copper
plating.  JAX is 1-914-668-1818 in Mt. Vernon, NY- you will have to do
some experimenting to get this just what you want.  The advantage of
finding it at your local store is lower shipping for quantity..  Has to
ship UPS ground,  with the hazardous package surcharge. And looking at
their price list they have the Jax Brown that works on copper too-I did
not order that.

Lee Boe
Rain-Boe's Creations


Richard Stoker wrote:
> 
> The only suggestion I can offer is that Joe Porcelli (he of Glass
> Craftsman and lampmaking fame) has a video out wherin he uses the Jax
> stuff to produce the classic green patina on a lamp.  His "secret" (which
> I have never tried to duplicate) is that he uses a "special" Copper
> patina which actually deposits copper onto the lead line (so he says).
> Now, where one gets this special copper patina is the big mystery.
> Perhaps it comes from JAX as well, though I have had a devil of a time
> trying to locate a wholesaler who stocks the stuff. (Even Ed Hoys, who
> claims to have every stained glass item known to mankind does not have it
> listed in their catalog).  To be frank, I have never contacted JAX
> directly, given that I do not have an immediate need for the stuff.
> 
> Perhaps someone else (or even Joe himself, as he has been known to peruse
> these pages from time to time) might explain just what the "special"
> copper patina is, so the rest of us might thereby have access to the
> bronze-brown finishes that Tiffany and others employed so well. Any
> takers?
> 
> Regards,
> Richard Stoker
> Turtle Bay Studios
----
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From owner-glass Fri May  9 15:05:30 1997
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X-Path: ComCAT.COM!suzy
From: suzanne albright <suzy@ComCAT.COM>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Green Patina Help
Date: Fri, 9 May 97 18:07:15 -0400
Message-ID: <199705092204.SAA13915@uz.comcat.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


Subject: Re: Green patina help
Date: Wed, 7 May 97 22:11:30 -0400
From: suzanne albright <suzy@ComCAT.COM>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"


>Hi all Bungians.  Maybe someone here can help me with a problem.  I
>recently purchased some Jax Green Patina, and am not at all satisfied with
>the results. 

Hi - I don't have the answer to your problem but I know who probably 
does. It is 
Joe Porcelli, the editor of Glass Craftsman magazine.

Try him at http://www.gcmagazine@aol.com

or, Arts & Media Inc., PO Box 678, Richboro, PA 18954-0678.
TEL. (215) 860-9947. FAX (215) 860-1812.



suzanne albright<suzy@comcat.com>




suzanne albright<suzy@comcat.com>

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From owner-glass Fri May  9 15:13:43 1997
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X-Path: net-magic.net!tcn
From: tcn@net-magic.net (Boatwright, W.L.)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Morton System
Date: Fri, 09 May 1997 18:15:53 -0700
Message-ID: <1997May9.111553.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: The Craft Nook, Inc.
Precedence: bulk

To A. Fernandez..sorry bungi group but need to contack A.F.Having
trouble sending mail.... Call us at 904-321-1601
Thanks
Walter

Sorry Bungi group
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From owner-glass Fri May  9 15:27:45 1997
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X-Path: computer.net!alewis
From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@computer.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: RE: pouring concrete:
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@computer.net>
Date: Fri, 9 May 1997 18:33:41 +0000
Message-ID: <199705092227.SAA07047@ns.computer.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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> or oxidation on the rebar actually helps to meld the concrete to the =
> rebar and strengthens it. 

Same thing with lead in came ... it oxidizes on the surface and that 
helps prolong its life.

Albert
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From owner-glass Fri May  9 18:19:30 1997
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X-Path: beachaccess.com!marrex
From: "MARGARET ETHERIDGE" <marrex@beachaccess.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: subscribe
Date: Fri, 9 May 1997 21:14:26
Message-ID: <1997May10.41426.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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Please add me to your mailing list 

marrex@beachaccess.com

thanks a lot.


 * JDS Mail & News

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From owner-glass Fri May  9 20:40:37 1997
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X-Path: voicenet.com!hilary
From: "Hilary A. Bobker" <hilary@voicenet.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Attn Philly Area Bungians
Date: Fri, 09 May 1997 22:41:16 +0000
Message-ID: <1997May9.224116.0>
References: <<199703231539.KAA10302@ns.computer.net>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: HABit Fashion Services
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Hello!

We are tentatively scheduling a field trip to Warner-Crivellaro on May
31st. Angelo has said that he will demonstrate some of the overlay
techniques that R.N. Oddy has used in his incredible pieces. Wanna play
with us? Know anybody else who wants to play with us? Respond here or to
my e-mail address: hilary@voicenet.com so we can figure out if
carpooling is possible and when to meet.

Take care,
Hilary
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From owner-glass Sat May 10 07:04:28 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!Bubstah
From: Bubstah@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Attn Philly Area Bungians
Date: Sat, 10 May 1997 10:03:49 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <1997May10.6349.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Where is Warner-Crivelaro located?  If it isn't too terribly far from South
Jersey area, I would love to join you.  The reason being, I have a dog that
needs attention.  Cannot leave him  as an all day affair unless I get a
sitter.  Thanks for your input. Looking to joining you on May 3l.
Bubstah
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From owner-glass Sat May 10 09:52:15 1997
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From: George & Gloria <3hounds@usaor.net>
To: "'bungians'" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Bird Patterns
Date: Sat, 10 May 1997 12:53:06 -0100
Message-ID: <1997May10.11536.0>
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For Wayne Munro.. There is a flying owl pattern on the winter issue of =
Glass Pattern Quarterly ( Winter 93/94) . This was when the full size =
patterns came with the magazine you purchased.. The owl is interesting =
since it is flying straight at you with the wings extended.. GPQ does =
sell back issues.


Also, there are nice birds in the Glas Designs Wildlife  by Verlag =
EvaMarie Vlokmann KG.. The one that interested me was the cranes in a =
water scene with waterlilies, pods and leaves.. This book also has =
penguins, and sand pipers also..
Gloria

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From owner-glass Sat May 10 12:56:54 1997
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X-Path: epix.net!winola
From: winola@epix.net
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Attn Philly Area Bungians
Date: Fri, 09 May 1997 12:23:09 -0700
Message-ID: <1997May9.5239.0>
References: <<1997May9.224116.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hilary A. Bobker wrote:
> 
> Hello!
> 
> We are tentatively scheduling a field trip to Warner-Crivellaro on May
> 31st. Angelo has said that he will demonstrate some of the overlay
> techniques that R.N. Oddy has used in his incredible pieces. Wanna play
> with us? Know anybody else who wants to play with us? Respond here or to
> my e-mail address: hilary@voicenet.com so we can figure out if
> carpooling is possible and when to meet.
> 
> Take care,
> Hilary
> ----
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From owner-glass Sat May 10 13:54:00 1997
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X-Path: kwic.com!mnvve3
From: Garry McKenna <mnvve3@kwic.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: swan pattern
Date: Sat, 10 May 1997 16:52:25 -0400
Message-ID: <1.5.4.32.19970510205225.0067d4bc@mail.kwic.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi.
I usually am a lurker here.  First I want to Congratulate Elisabeth on her
fight for her friend Susan.  What a lucky gal she is to have you as a friend
in her corner! I am certainly cheering for you and will wait for further news.
In the matter of a swan pattern, I happened to come across one this morning.
It is quite nice, an oval approx. 8 x 12 inches, quite simple really. Just
the swan, water and some cattails.  If you are interested, you could let me
know. I happen to have 2 copies and would be pleased to send you one.

Linda.

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From owner-glass Sat May 10 14:21:09 1997
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From: "Hilary A. Bobker" <hilary@voicenet.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Attn Philly Area Bungians
Date: Sat, 10 May 1997 16:21:49 +0000
Message-ID: <1997May10.162149.0>
References: <<1997May10.6349.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: HABit Fashion Services
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> Where is Warner-Crivelaro located?

Hi, Bubstah,

My blessed husband stays home with our dawgies while I go play at W-C.
One trip to W-C is worth two trips to Home Depot. Ain't marriage grand?

W-C is located in Allentown. It is a straight shot up the Blue Route
(476) and then the Northeast extension of the PA turnpike, then turn
right for about 10 minutes. I'm in the close suburbs of Philly on the SW
side and it takes me about 1 hour and 15 minutes to get there.

Our previous field trips have meant arriving at W-C sometime between 10
and 11, shopping, watching Angelo, lunching, shopping, watching Angelo,
shopping, giving the house and the first born to W-C and then leaving
sometime between 2 and 4. Angelo starts his demos at 11. Lunching is
optional, also. W-C usually has coffee and donuts for the "watchers."

Does this help you set the time frame?

This is turning into a real party! There are at least eight of us so
far!
Let me know if you can make it!

Take care,
Hilary
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From owner-glass Sat May 10 15:13:47 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!Mosfunland
From: Mosfunland@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Attn Philly Area Bungians
Date: Sat, 10 May 1997 18:12:43 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <1997May10.141243.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi Hilary, count me in!   Wow what a great time.....hey if someone comes a
long distance they can "bungee" jump down into the place....

Maureen.
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From owner-glass Sat May 10 16:56:27 1997
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X-Path: epix.net!winola
From: winola@epix.net
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Attn Philly Area Bungians
Date: Sat, 10 May 1997 19:53:14 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May10.155314.0>
References: <<1997May9.5239.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

winola@epix.net wrote:
> 
> Hilary A. Bobker wrote:
> >
> > Hello!
> >
> > We are tentatively scheduling a field trip to Warner-Crivellaro on May
> > 31st. Angelo has said that he will demonstrate some of the overlay
> > techniques that R.N. Oddy has used in his incredible pieces. Wanna play
> > with us? Know anybody else who wants to play with us? Respond here or to
> > my e-mail address: hilary@voicenet.com so we can figure out if
> > carpooling is possible and when to meet.
> >
> > Take care,
> > Hilary
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> 
> ----
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hi I was there today. spent the first born . so i still have the house ,
sure i'll play. jean    winola@epix.net
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From owner-glass Sat May 10 20:23:11 1997
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X-Path: voicenet.com!hilary
From: "Hilary A. Bobker" <hilary@voicenet.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Attn Philly Area Bungians
Date: Sat, 10 May 1997 22:22:45 +0000
Message-ID: <1997May10.222245.0>
References: <<1997May10.141243.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: HABit Fashion Services
Precedence: bulk

> Hi Hilary, count me in!   Wow what a great time.....hey if someone comes a
> long distance they can "bungee" jump down into the place....

Hi back! Maureen,

This is turning into a BIG party. Counting my friends from work, there
are at least 11 of us!

Where do you live? Do you want to carpool? Do you want to ride or drive?

Take care,
Hilary
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From owner-glass Sat May 10 21:27:20 1997
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X-Path: concentric.net!shmfcoop
From: "M. Cooper" <shmfcoop@concentric.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: swan pattern
Date: Sun, 11 May 1997 00:27:54 -0700
Message-ID: <1997May10.172754.0>
References: <<1.5.4.32.19970510205225.0067d4bc@mail.kwic.com>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Linda,

	I would really appreciate the swan pattern.  The glass swan will be for
my 87 year-old grandmother, who loves the swans that frequent the pond
near her home.  Meigan
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From owner-glass Sat May 10 21:56:19 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!Mosfunland
From: Mosfunland@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Attn Philly Area Bungians
Date: Sun, 11 May 1997 00:54:51 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <1997May10.205451.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi Hilary, I live in Philadelphia, Northeasty kinda territory.  I can do what
ever needs to be done.    Figure I will go our awhoring for the next couple
weeks to finance the bill.....lol


maureen   


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From: Mosfunland@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Attn Philly Area Bungians
Date: Sun, 11 May 1997 01:02:48 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <1997May10.21248.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

YIKES!!!!! that last note from me  was supposed to go to Hilary....not the
whole dag gum list, including those armed with flame
throwers.....sorry....sheesh....
maureen

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From owner-glass Sun May 11 14:28:22 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!ANLGlass
From: ANLGlass@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: "Saguaro Sunset" pattern
Date: Sun, 11 May 1997 17:27:26 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <1997May11.132726.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Does anyone know who makes this pattern?  It's in the Delphi catalog.  I need
to
get a copy.

(So why don't I just order it from Delphi?  I'd rather get it from my local 
wholesaler if I can ... I'm short of making the minimum for the year!)

Thanks ...

Marilyn Kaminski
A New Light
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From owner-glass Mon May 12 05:49:08 1997
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X-Path: imcnet.net!hotel
From: Murray R Maxon <hotel@imcnet.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: tiffany restoration
Date: Sun, 11 May 1997 08:43:45 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May11.44345.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Ontario Place Hotel
Precedence: bulk

we have three tiffany windows in our church that need restoration.  Do
you recommend restoring in place or removal.  we are reluctant to
remove. have estimates from several craftsman, some say take out others
say leave in.  what do you say?
your answer will be greatly appreciated.

murray maxon.
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From owner-glass Mon May 12 06:26:19 1997
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X-Path: juno.com!eldondo1
From: eldondo1@juno.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: tiffany restoration
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 09:23:21 EDT
Message-ID: <1997May12.132321.0>
References: <<1997May11.44345.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I'm on the side of the take out group, the cost will be higher, but the
results and the ease of the work will improve. Don DeVoto
On Sun, 11 May 1997 08:43:45 -0400 Murray R Maxon <hotel@imcnet.net>
writes:
>we have three tiffany windows in our church that need restoration.  Do
>you recommend restoring in place or removal.  we are reluctant to
>remove. have estimates from several craftsman, some say take out 
>others
>say leave in.  what do you say?
>your answer will be greatly appreciated.
>
>murray maxon.
>----
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From owner-glass Mon May 12 07:49:00 1997
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From: mcFrenzy <pristine@gr.cns.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: tiffany restoration
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 10:39:23 -0400
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If it's restoration then there is no question about their removal.


Murray R Maxon wrote:
> 
> we have three tiffany windows in our church that need restoration.  Do
> you recommend restoring in place or removal.  we are reluctant to
> remove. have estimates from several craftsman, some say take out others
> say leave in.  what do you say?
> your answer will be greatly appreciated.
> 
> murray maxon.
> ----
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From owner-glass Mon May 12 08:05:04 1997
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X-Path: UCONNVM.UCONN.EDU!HCLADM02
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To:           glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
Subject:      Re: Attn Philly Area Bungians
Date:         Mon, 12 May 97 11:01:08 EDT
Message-ID:   <970512.110335.EDT.HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu>
References: <<1997May10.155314.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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...and then you will describe those overlay techniques for those of us
for whom the trip is a LITTLE too long, right?  Take good notes and
have fun.  (re:WC fieldtrip)

--
Dorothy Kalahan, Interlibrary Loan  (860) 679-2940  FAX (860) 679-4046
UCONN Health Center Library, POB 4003, Farmington CT 06034-4003
HCLADM02@UConnVM.uconn.edu
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From owner-glass Mon May 12 08:07:23 1997
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X-Path: az.stratus.com!charlie
From: Charles Spitzer <charlie@az.stratus.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: Re: "Saguaro Sunset" pattern
Date: Mon, 12 May 97 08:05:47 -0700
Message-ID: <m0wQwfc-000LiCC@why.az.stratus.com>
References: <<1997May11.132726.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Customer Assistance Center, Stratus Computer, Inc.
Precedence: bulk

You wrote:
> Does anyone know who makes this pattern? It's in the Delphi catalog. I need
> to get a copy.
>
> (So why don't I just order it from Delphi?  I'd rather get it from my local 
> wholesaler if I can ... I'm short of making the minimum for the year!)
>
> Thanks ...
>
> Marilyn Kaminski
> A New Light
if you have access to a xerox machine and a small picture of it, you can  
make it yourself.  you can buy clear sheets of acetate that can go through  
the copier. just copy it, then use an overhead projector to show it on a  
wall, and you can make it any size you want.

---
Charles Spitzer
charlie@az.stratus.com
Customer Assistance Center
Stratus Computer, Inc.
Phoenix, AZ
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From owner-glass Mon May 12 08:28:07 1997
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X-Path: memach.com!lcbell
From: Linda Campbell <lcbell@memach.com>
To: "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>,
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: RE: "Saguaro Sunset" pattern
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 11:26:41 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May12.72641.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

While I'm not sure of the legalities of this, I tried it once. The end =
product was distorted verrrry badly. The small line drawing looked fine =
but when enlarged the circle turned into an egg, off by as much as 1/2 =
inch. Ugh, I bought the pattern.

Linda Campbell

----------
From:  Charles Spitzer[SMTP:charlie@az.stratus.com]

if you have access to a xerox machine and a small picture of it, you can =
=20
make it yourself.  you can buy clear sheets of acetate that can go =
through =20
the copier. just copy it, then use an overhead projector to show it on a =
=20
wall, and you can make it any size you want.



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From owner-glass Mon May 12 14:15:50 1997
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X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: "Saguaro Sunset" pattern
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 17:11:45 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May12.131145.0>
References: <<1997May12.72641.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Linda Campbell wrote:
> 
> While I'm not sure of the legalities of this, I tried it once. The end =
> product was distorted verrrry badly. The small line drawing looked fine =
> but when enlarged the circle turned into an egg, off by as much as 1/2 =
> inch. Ugh, I bought the pattern.
> 
> Linda Campbell
> 
> ----------
> From:  Charles Spitzer[SMTP:charlie@az.stratus.com]
> 
> if you have access to a xerox machine and a small picture of it, you can =
> =20
> make it yourself.  you can buy clear sheets of acetate that can go =
> through =20
> the copier. just copy it, then use an overhead projector to show it on a =
> =20
> wall, and you can make it any size you want.
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

i've always blown my images up by hand with an opaque projector.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141

New Pages Added:

 - New Instructional Guides Added!!!
 - The Creative Process
 - How to Find Patterns for Suncatchers
 - Picking Out Glass in the Store

 - Plus New Photos
 - 5 New Pictures in the 3-D Catagory
 - 2 New Pictures in the Panel Catagory
 - Updated Shots of The Heart of Atlantis, and Japanese Garden

 - But That's Not All!!!
 - My Links Page is UP!
 - And Awards Page Too
----
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From owner-glass Mon May 12 14:37:12 1997
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X-Path: ComCAT.COM!suzy
From: suzanne albright <suzy@ComCAT.COM>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: "Saguaro Sunset" pattern
Date: Mon, 12 May 97 17:39:13 -0400
Message-ID: <199705122136.RAA19234@uz.comcat.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk



>Does anyone know who makes this pattern?  It's in the Delphi catalog.  I need
>to
>get a copy.

>
>Marilyn Kaminski
>A New Light


Hi Marilyn, the pattern is in a book called "Southwest Designs II" by 
Jennifer Cole. A picture of it is on the back cover, and the pattern is 
on p. 25.
If you don't want to deal with blowing it up, you can order it from 
Expressions Art Glass, 602-886-7720. It is their pattern No. JC-39. Their 
pattern is 32 x 22 and it costs $9.00.

Good Luck,
Suzanne Albright

>


suzanne albright<suzy@comcat.com>

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From owner-glass Mon May 12 18:33:38 1997
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X-Path: nobleco.net!glass
From: "Paul Wallace" <Paul Wallace>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: tiffany restoration
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@nobleco.net>
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 20:41:45 +0000
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Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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> From:          Murray R Maxon <hotel@imcnet.net>
> To:            glass@bungi.com
> Subject:       tiffany restoration
> Date:          Sun, 11 May 1997 08:43:45 -0400
> Reply-to:      glass@bungi.com
> Organization:  Ontario Place Hotel

> we have three tiffany windows in our church that need restoration.  Do
> you recommend restoring in place or removal.  we are reluctant to
> remove. have estimates from several craftsman, some say take out others
> say leave in.  what do you say?
> your answer will be greatly appreciated.



If they are real tiffany windows let one of the big companies with 
$$$ in insurance handle them.


Paul
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From owner-glass Mon May 12 20:42:38 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!Bubstah
From: Bubstah@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Attn Philly Area Bungians
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 23:41:42 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <1997May12.194142.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I think I will have to catch you another time when you may go to WC for the
day.. It would be almost impossible for me to get there that early and leave
my four legged buddy for that many hours.  I live near Atlantic City and it
would be at least 2 1/2 hours for me in travel time.  Maybe longer if I hit
any traffic.  To get to the Tacony Bridge it takes me about 1 hour l5 minutes
or for that matter, any bridge would be that or a   bit more time depending
on traffic.
Have fun and enjoy the day.
Bubstah
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From owner-glass Tue May 13 05:06:25 1997
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From: Linda Campbell <lcbell@memach.com>
To: "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: What you can do with patterns
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 07:45:21 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May13.34521.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk



I just bought a pattern book for coastal lighthouses and inside it says =
I can use the pattern for family and friends but that I can't make =
anything for resale by their patterns. Anyone else heard of this. Can =
they really enforce this? I've been talking to a consignment craft shop =
that will take anything I can do with lighthouses. Seems to me that once =
I change the pattern to suit me, it's mine.

Linda Campbell
Suffolk, VA
On the perimeter of the Great Dismal Swamp

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From owner-glass Tue May 13 07:12:55 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!ScottSGN
From: ScottSGN@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: What you can do with patterns
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 10:11:50 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <1997May13.61150.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Linda Campbell wrote:

>I just bought a pattern book for coastal lighthouses and inside it says 
>I can use the pattern for family and friends but that I can't make 
>anything for resale by their patterns. 

Actually, it *doesn't* say that you "can't make anything for resale." It says
that if you plan to build these projects for resale or commercial use, you
will need to write to the publisher for permission.

>Anyone else heard of this.

I have. But then, I'm the publisher of that book.

>Can they really enforce this? I've been talking to a consignment craft shop
>that will take anything I can do with lighthouses.

Since the patterns are copyrighted material, we *can* enforce it, but we'd
rather not. We'd rather people simply do what it says... write to us for
permission. If you'd like to do that, we'll send you a letter explaining that
if you are making a few of these projects for consignment shops (or craft
fairs or whatever), that's fine with us. If, on the other hand, you are
making larger quanitites of one particular project for resale (perhaps
through a catalog)
we assume that a small part of the reason the project is continuing to sell
for you is because it was made from a nice design. Therefore, we also expect
to start receiving a small part of the income, which involves a small royalty
fee.

>Seems to me that once I change the pattern to suit me, it's mine.

If you change the pattern as to be not recognizable as the original (the
simplest legal explanation), you can do whatever you want with it.

Like most publishers in our industry, we're actually very reasonable folks.
But a few of us have run into isolated cases of copyright abuse, so we have
to cover ourselves with statements like the one you referred to in the front
of our book.

We're glad you like the book and hope you have fun making, and selling,
projects from it.

Scott
SGN Publishing

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From owner-glass Tue May 13 07:36:45 1997
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X-Path: memach.com!lcbell
From: Linda Campbell <lcbell@memach.com>
To: "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>,
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: RE: What you can do with patterns
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 10:35:21 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May13.63521.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Scott,=20

So nice to hear from the voice of reason. Maybe I got myself all wound =
up for nothing. I assumed that permission also involved money, but it =
sounds like in my case (small consignment sales) it may not. Please send =
me the letter you spoke of with permission or directions on how to get =
permission. By the way, the Coastal Lighthouses is a very nice book with =
nice designs and lots of options on size and shape - and something we =
have been talking about here at bungi - overlays of glass for special =
effects. It came to my local shop at a time when I had been asked for =
just such designs, especially the Hatteras Lighthouse since the shop is =
in North Carolina. This will be my first attempt at having my work in a =
craft shop and I'm really excited about the prospects. Thanks again for =
the explanation, Scott.

Linda Campbell
Suffolk, VA
On the perimeter of the Great Dismal Swamp
I don't speak for Metro Machine nor they for me.

----------
From:  ScottSGN@aol.com[SMTP:ScottSGN@aol.com]
>I just bought a pattern book for coastal lighthouses and inside it says =

>I can use the pattern for family and friends but that I can't make=20
>anything for resale by their patterns.=20

Actually, it *doesn't* say that you "can't make anything for resale." It =
says
that if you plan to build these projects for resale or commercial use, =
you
will need to write to the publisher for permission.



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From owner-glass Tue May 13 08:36:11 1997
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From: pom@netbistro.com (J. Smith)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Pricing Pieces
Date: Tue, 13 May 97 08:41 PDT
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Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

P.S Thanx Wayne for the advice , I will keep that in mind! 

Hi to all!  I know this is probably a subject beaten to death.....
but...how do you price your pieces????? No Algebra please as I was
never good at it! My neighbour is wanting to buy a piece I have hanging
in the window (It's a one square ft.piece with about 25 pieces , tulips
and leaves , with an irradecent border Oh It's copper foiled..........
Mostly water glass. I'm sure this is difficult and maybee the begining
stages of Becoming A Professional (just excited today)!!!.......

Thanx in advance
Jennifer the newbie

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From owner-glass Tue May 13 08:45:31 1997
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X-Path: westbyserver.westby.mwt.net!alcamoz
From: len alcamo <alcamoz@mwt.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: tiffany restoration
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 10:40:35 -0500 (CDT)
Message-ID: <199705131540.KAA24851@westbyserver.westby.mwt.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

At 08:43 AM 5/11/97 -0400, Murray R Maxon wrote:
>we have three tiffany windows in our church that need restoration.  Do
>you recommend restoring in place or removal.  we are reluctant to
>remove. have estimates from several craftsman, some say take out others
>say leave in.  what do you say?
>your answer will be greatly appreciated.


>
>murray maxon.


Hi Murry,

Its difficult to give an opinion based on the amount of information you
provided.

I would think by now you have received private email from members of this
list soliciting  your business. In any case I'll try and provide a little
info although its difficult sight unseen.

Take bids only from established concerns that can provide proper credentials
and referrels from customers who have had similiar work done. Avoid instant
experts, anybody can read a book and talk a good game. Very few local glass
shops can take on this type of work without jepordizing your priceless windows

Unless you have unlimited funding you will have to decide on the DEGREE of
repair you should have done at THIS TIME. Some companies will attempt to put
you on a guilt trip if you don't agree to a complete restoration right now,
conversely avoid the quicky fix hit and run artist. If there are financial
constrants, set up a schedule of repair based on priority. Fix one properly
now, one in the next year or two. 

If your windows are indeed authenticated Tiffanys they deserve the best
possible treatment that you can realistically afford.

 There are very few situations when windows should not be removed for
repair,  if the window required rebracing or if the window needed minor
repairs and is puttyed into stone tracery, would be a couple of examples. If
the windows need restoration (ambiguous term) but does not require a
complete relead, I recommend using a company that will do the work ON SITE
as opposed to carting them off somewhere. Many studios are equipped and
experienced to perform work in this manner. The work will get done faster,
safer and it gives you opportunity to have the work scrutinized in progress.

Good Luck!

Len

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From: len alcamo <alcamoz@mwt.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: tiffany restoration
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 10:40:32 -0500 (CDT)
Message-ID: <199705131540.KAA24849@westbyserver.westby.mwt.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

At 08:43 AM 5/11/97 -0400, Murray R Maxon wrote:
>we have three tiffany windows in our church that need restoration.  Do
>you recommend restoring in place or removal.  we are reluctant to
>remove. have estimates from several craftsman, some say take out others
>say leave in.  what do you say?
>your answer will be greatly appreciated.


>
>murray maxon.


Hi Murry,

Its difficult to give an opinion based on the amount of information you
provided.

I would think by now you have received private email from members of this
list soliciting  your business. In any case I'll try and provide a little
info although its difficult sight unseen.

Take bids only from established concerns that can provide proper credentials
and referrels from customers who have had similiar work done. Avoid instant
experts, anybody can read a book and talk a good game. Very few local glass
shops can take on this type of work without jepordizing your priceless windows

Unless you have unlimited funding you will have to decide on the DEGREE of
repair you should have done at THIS TIME. Some companies will attempt to put
you on a guilt trip if you don't agree to a complete restoration right now,
conversely avoid the quicky fix hit and run artist. If there are financial
constrants, set up a schedule of repair based on priority. Fix one properly
now, one in the next year or two. 

If your windows are indeed authenticated Tiffanys they deserve the best
possible treatment that you can realistically afford.

 There are very few situations when windows should not be removed for
repair,  if the window required rebracing or if the window needed minor
repairs and is puttyed into stone tracery, would be a couple of examples. If
the windows need restoration (ambiguous term) but does not require a
complete relead, I recommend using a company that will do the work ON SITE
as opposed to carting them off somewhere. Many studios are equipped and
experienced to perform work in this manner. The work will get done faster,
safer and it gives you opportunity to have the work scrutinized in progress.

Good Luck!

Len

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From owner-glass Tue May 13 09:07:56 1997
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: What you can do with patterns
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 09:54:58 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May13.55458.0>
References: <<1997May13.34521.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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Linda Campbell wrote:
> 
> I just bought a pattern book for coastal lighthouses and inside it says =
> I can use the pattern for family and friends but that I can't make =
> anything for resale by their patterns. Anyone else heard of this. Can =
> they really enforce this? I've been talking to a consignment craft shop =
> that will take anything I can do with lighthouses. Seems to me that once =
> I change the pattern to suit me, it's mine.
> 
> Linda Campbell
> Suffolk, VA
> On the perimeter of the Great Dismal Swamp
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

i really can't see how they can enforce this. even if you coose a
slighlty different color of glass, you can use it against them. besides
who's gonna know? what are the chances that the person of the book is
going to come, then reconize it. but you never know...

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141

New Pages Added:

 - New Instructional Guides Added!!!
 - The Creative Process
 - How to Find Patterns for Suncatchers
 - Picking Out Glass in the Store

 - Plus New Photos
 - 5 New Pictures in the 3-D Catagory
 - 2 New Pictures in the Panel Catagory
 - Updated Shots of The Heart of Atlantis, and Japanese Garden

 - But That's Not All!!!
 - My Links Page is UP!
 - And Awards Page Too
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From owner-glass Tue May 13 09:07:57 1997
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From: Garry McKenna <mnvve3@kwic.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: swan pattern
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 10:00:44 -0400
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Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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Bonnie
No problem - your pattern will be in the mail today.
Meigan
Your Grandmother will love this patter - however - I need an address for you
in order to send it off.  If you wish, you could reach me privately and it
will be in the mail ASAP.
By the way your Philly-bound people?  I am pea green with envy, enjoy and
come home and tell us all about it!   Linda

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From: len alcamo <alcamoz@mwt.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: tiffany restoration
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 08:36:51 -0500 (CDT)
Message-ID: <199705131336.IAA19760@westbyserver.westby.mwt.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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At 08:43 AM 5/11/97 -0400, Murray R Maxon wrote:
>we have three tiffany windows in our church that need restoration.  Do
>you recommend restoring in place or removal.  we are reluctant to
>remove. have estimates from several craftsman, some say take out others
>say leave in.  what do you say?
>your answer will be greatly appreciated.


>
>murray maxon.


Hi Murry,

Its difficult to give an opinion based on the amount of information you
provided.

I would think by now you have received private email from members of this
list soliciting  your business. In any case I'll try and provide a little
info although its difficult sight unseen.

Take bids only from established concerns that can provide proper credentials
and referrels from customers who have had similiar work done. Avoid instant
experts, anybody can read a book and talk a good game. Very few local glass
shops can take on this type of work without jepordizing your priceless windows

Unless you have unlimited funding you will have to decide on the DEGREE of
repair you should have done at THIS TIME. Some companies will attempt to put
you on a guilt trip if you don't agree to a complete restoration right now,
conversely avoid the quicky fix hit and run artist. If there are financial
constrants, set up a schedule of repair based on priority. Fix one properly
now, one in the next year or two. 

If your windows are indeed authenticated Tiffanys they deserve the best
possible treatment that you can realistically afford.

 There are very few situations when windows should not be removed for
repair,  if the window required rebracing or if the window needed minor
repairs and is puttyed into stone tracery, would be a couple of examples. If
the windows need restoration (ambiguous term) but does not require a
complete relead, I recommend using a company that will do the work ON SITE
as opposed to carting them off somewhere. Many studios are equipped and
experienced to perform work in this manner. The work will get done faster,
safer and it gives you opportunity to have the work scrutinized in progress.

Good Luck!

Len

----
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From owner-glass Tue May 13 09:08:08 1997
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X-Path: computer.net!alewis
From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@computer.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: What you can do with patterns
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@computer.net>
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 08:21:05 +0000
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Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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> I just bought a pattern book for coastal lighthouses and inside it says =
> I can use the pattern for family and friends but that I can't make =
> anything for resale by their patterns. Anyone else heard of this. Can =
> they really enforce this?

The copyright would keep you from re-publishing their designs in 
another pattern book ... or even copying any of them for someone 
else, but it would be very difficult for them to keep you from *using 
the patterns to produce stained glass pieces for resale, since that's 
why they published the book. You can relax about that.

Albert Lewis, Executive Director
International Guild of Glass Artists
A 501(c)(6) nonprofit organization
Tonetta Lake Road, Brewster NY 10509
(914) 278-2152   Fax: (914) 278-2481
_________________________________________________________
http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/ [home page]
http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/guide.htm [Sources Guide]
http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/links.htm [Members' Work]

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From owner-glass Tue May 13 10:14:35 1997
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From: "Michael J. Greer" <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: All <GLASS@BUNGI.COM>
Subject: What you can do with patterns
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 13:10:30 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May13.91030.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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Nice explanation from Scott at SGN Publishing.  Copyright is an important
issue for anyone selling work - another good source of basic information is
"The Artists' Market", available at most bookstores and libraries. The laws
very heavily favor the original artist and it's important to know and
understand them.  There are aspects of the law that can be very annoying
depending on which side of the fence you're on.  For example, if I sell you
a custom-designed window for your business, I can still use that original
image for my own purposes without your permission.  However, you cannot use
the image to promote your business (on brochures, for example) unless you
get my permission, no matter how much the window cost - not unless I have
specifically sold the reproduction rights to you.  Seems like that should
be common knowledge, but it's not.  In fact, most folks are surprised.  

Best regards,

Dani Greer
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From owner-glass Tue May 13 11:46:08 1997
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From: len alcamo <alcamoz@mwt.net>
To: glass@BUNGI.COM
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: What you can do with patterns
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 13:43:43 -0500 (CDT)
Message-ID: <199705131843.NAA02785@westbyserver.westby.mwt.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

  For example, if I sell you
>a custom-designed window for your business, I can still use that original
>image for my own purposes without your permission.  However, you cannot use
>the image to promote your business (on brochures, for example) unless you
>get my permission, no matter how much the window cost - not unless I have
>specifically sold the reproduction rights to you.  

Boy, someones going to splash your work all over the place in a brochure and
your going to squeeze them for a reproduction right fee? I dunno. How about
just a credit on the printed material? Seems more neighborly. 

Len

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From owner-glass Tue May 13 14:27:34 1997
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X-Path: compuserve.com!GreerStudios
From: "Michael J. Greer" <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: All <GLASS@Bungi.com>
Subject: What you can do with patterns
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 16:32:14 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May13.123214.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Credit on the printed material is usually fine, Len, but many times artists
don't get even that!  The point is - it's neighborly to ASK especially when
someone has a printed "permission" clause on their material.  And if the
artist says "no", that needs to be honored.  Otherwise, you're pirating
their work and that's neither nice nor ethical nor legal.  Of course, we do
only original and one-of-a-kind work and don't sell or publish our patterns
for anyone else's use, so copyright is pretty clear.  I agree with Albert
that publication of designs creates somewhat of a gray area. 

Having said all that, I'll also share with you how I came to be a member of
this group.  pj Friend stumbled upon our website and was kind enough to
e-mail me with some nice compliments and a tip that I should have a
copyright notice on our work!  Still haven't gotten to it, but it's on my
list of things to get to before the end of the decade.

Best regards,

Dani Greer 
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From owner-glass Tue May 13 15:12:50 1997
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From: Charles <charles@fast.net>
To: glass@BUNGI.COM
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: What you can do with patterns
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 18:04:40 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May13.14440.0>
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Recently we asked for bids on some photo work and were surprised
that at least one photographer had conditions such as:
	we could only use the photos for two years, beyond that 
		there was an additional royalty charge,
	only one use of the photos was permitted such as in a brochure 
		(catalog use was prohibited)

The bid was for photos of exciting things like a bottle of flux.

This was the first bid we threw out.  Anyone can put limits on
their work but you don't have to accept them.  Look at the large 
number of reasonably priced copyright free art books Dover publishes.

Charles Warner
> 
> Boy, someones going to splash your work all over the place in a brochure and
> your going to squeeze them for a reproduction right fee? I dunno. How about
> just a credit on the printed material? Seems more neighborly.
> 
> Len
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From owner-glass Tue May 13 15:33:19 1997
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X-Path: usaor.net!3hounds
From: George & Gloria <3hounds@usaor.net>
To: "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>,
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: RE: What you can do with patterns
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 18:30:34 -0100
Message-ID: <1997May13.173034.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk



ps.  Where did you purchase the patternbook.. I would like to buy a copy.

Thanks
Gloria

----------
From:  Linda Campbell[SMTP:lcbell@memach.com]
Sent:  Tuesday, May 13, 1997 1:35 PM
To:  glass@bungi.com
Subject:  RE: What you can do with patterns

Scott,=20

So nice to hear from the voice of reason. Maybe I got myself all wound =
up for nothing. I assumed that permission also involved money, but it =
sounds like in my case (small consignment sales) it may not. Please send =
me the letter you spoke of with permission or directions on how to get =
permission. By the way, the Coastal Lighthouses is a very nice book with =
nice designs and lots of options on size and shape - and something we =
have been talking about here at bungi - overlays of glass for special =
effects. It came to my local shop at a time when I had been asked for =
just such designs, especially the Hatteras Lighthouse since the shop is =
in North Carolina. This will be my first attempt at having my work in a =
craft shop and I'm really excited about the prospects. Thanks again for =
the explanation, Scott.

Linda Campbell
Suffolk, VA
On the perimeter of the Great Dismal Swamp
I don't speak for Metro Machine nor they for me.

----------
From:  ScottSGN@aol.com[SMTP:ScottSGN@aol.com]
>I just bought a pattern book for coastal lighthouses and inside it says =

>I can use the pattern for family and friends but that I can't make=20
>anything for resale by their patterns.=20

Actually, it *doesn't* say that you "can't make anything for resale." It =
says
that if you plan to build these projects for resale or commercial use, =
you
will need to write to the publisher for permission.



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From owner-glass Tue May 13 15:33:54 1997
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From: George & Gloria <3hounds@usaor.net>
To: "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>,
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: RE: What you can do with patterns
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 18:27:24 -0100
Message-ID: <1997May13.172724.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk



I live very close to Mr. Molchany and I have purchased  finished =
products and glass from him.. Rich is the designer of the Molchany Rose  =
lamp shade  or now the new name Sweetheart Rose that the glass =
reproduction companies (?)  do for the likes of Eric Lighting , or =
Mexican ware,  Chinese ware, or any of the  outside (?)    craftsmen =
do.. Because  they change 1 or 2 pattern cuts, he lost his copyright / =
royalties  on this pattern, believe me, they are not rich people and =
just earn a living from a retail glass studio and their own talent..   =
Put yourself in their position.. I know that maybe this lighthouse =
pattern company  may not want you to  sell thousands, a few might be =
okay, but they want to deter their designs from the should I say the =
foreign mass produced market.. You may from courtesy, write to them and =
ask if limited  ( 1 to how many pieces) might be appropriate..  that is =
why I did not reply to the bungi Glass Atlas patterns.. For now I have =
been selling from an adaptation of other patterns and I feel that =
putting my name on that piece distracts from the rights of the original =
artist. I am only adapting one piece and that is not mass producing.. =
and as others say, that is my 2  cents.
Gloria at 3 Hounds=20

----------
From:  Linda Campbell[SMTP:lcbell@memach.com]
Sent:  Tuesday, May 13, 1997 10:45 AM
To:  glass@bungi.com
Subject:  What you can do with patterns



I just bought a pattern book for coastal lighthouses and inside it says =
=3D
I can use the pattern for family and friends but that I can't make =3D
anything for resale by their patterns. Anyone else heard of this. Can =
=3D
they really enforce this? I've been talking to a consignment craft shop =
=3D
that will take anything I can do with lighthouses. Seems to me that once =
=3D
I change the pattern to suit me, it's mine.

Linda Campbell
Suffolk, VA
On the perimeter of the Great Dismal Swamp

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From owner-glass Tue May 13 15:44:59 1997
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From: George & Gloria <3hounds@usaor.net>
To: All <GLASS@Bungi.com>,
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: RE: What you can do with patterns
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 18:46:17 -0100
Message-ID: <1997May13.174617.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk



 What should I say, Great for you..    I have been on this  bungi news =
line for some time, and maybe you are appreciating that I am not PC =
friendly and could not reply to some messages, but please remember, that =
our designs take many hours of time and  thought, that should entitle  =
us from enabling the foreign  (?) to mass produce..

Hey, Bungians,
Let's come up with a title for the Chinese ware, Mexican ware ect.. that =
we can use..=20
PET PIEVE.
Gloria @ 3 Hounds

----------
From:  Michael J. Greer[SMTP:GreerStudios@compuserve.com]
Sent:  Tuesday, May 13, 1997 7:32 PM
To:  All
Subject:  What you can do with patterns

Credit on the printed material is usually fine, Len, but many times =
artists
don't get even that!  The point is - it's neighborly to ASK especially =
when
someone has a printed "permission" clause on their material.  And if the
artist says "no", that needs to be honored.  Otherwise, you're pirating
their work and that's neither nice nor ethical nor legal.  Of course, we =
do
only original and one-of-a-kind work and don't sell or publish our =
patterns
for anyone else's use, so copyright is pretty clear.  I agree with =
Albert
that publication of designs creates somewhat of a gray area.=20

Having said all that, I'll also share with you how I came to be a member =
of
this group.  pj Friend stumbled upon our website and was kind enough to
e-mail me with some nice compliments and a tip that I should have a
copyright notice on our work!  Still haven't gotten to it, but it's on =
my
list of things to get to before the end of the decade.

Best regards,

Dani Greer=20
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From owner-glass Tue May 13 16:06:25 1997
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From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@computer.net>
To: glass@BUNGI.COM
Subject: Re: What you can do with patterns
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@computer.net>
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 19:09:44 +0000
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> Boy, someones going to splash your work all over the place in a brochure and
> your going to squeeze them for a reproduction right fee? I dunno. How about
> just a credit on the printed material? Seems more neighborly. 

Of course, if the photo's used on the cover of PhotographyToday and 
the owner of the window is paid $10,000 by the magazine for the right 
to republish the photo of your work, you might feel less neighborly. 

albert
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From owner-glass Tue May 13 16:06:29 1997
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From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@computer.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: tiffany restoration
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@computer.net>
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 19:09:44 +0000
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Len, with some of what you've said I would agree, with other comments 
I would take issue. Restoration of stained glass as it's being 
increasingly practiced these days (meaning that it's being done in 
the manner that Europeans have long since adopted) is, as you 
indicate, a combination of technical know-how and an ethical 
philosophy.  "Philosophy?" you ask. Yep, deciding whether t'is nobler 
to remove and risk damage in the removal or to leave in place and 
hazard continued damage being caused by whatever requires careful 
thinking and a reasoned argument for whatever decision's finally 
made. My 2c worth and 1c or 2c more to follow. <s>

> Take bids only from established concerns that can provide proper credentials
> and referrels from customers who have had similiar work done. 

Excellent advice.

> Unless you have unlimited funding you will have to decide on the DEGREE of
> repair you should have done at THIS TIME. 

Also good advice. Scheduling good work by experienced craftspeople 
over a period of time means that those entrusted with windows (as are 
their owners, since they're preserving them for those who come after 
them) can also schedule fund raising to meet the necessarily high 
costs of good, thoughtful, careful restoration. Of primary importance 
is the well-being of the windows, not whether studio A or studio B 
gets the job and can buy that boat this year.

>  There are very few situations when windows should not be removed for
> repair,  if the window required rebracing or if the window needed minor
> repairs and is puttyed into stone tracery, would be a couple of examples.

Okay, Len, I'm with you so far if I understand you correctly: you're 
saying that it's a rare thing for windows being restored to *not be 
removed, right? I'd agree with that.

> If the windows need restoration (ambiguous term) but does not require a
> complete relead, I recommend using a company that will do the work ON SITE
> as opposed to carting them off somewhere. Many studios are equipped and
> experienced to perform work in this manner. The work will get done faster,
> safer and it gives you opportunity to have the work scrutinized in 
progress.

But here I have to take exception. Apart from the most minor repair 
work, windows being restored should be removed, crated, taken to the 
studio and worked on flat. To do otherwise may save the client money 
in the short run, but the hazards to the windows are greatly 
increased. The client will be glad of the money saved today, but the 
windows will *not be better off for not having been handled properly.

Gosh, it was more like 10c worth. Sorry.

Albert
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From owner-glass Tue May 13 16:09:31 1997
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X-Path: computer.net!alewis
From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@computer.net>
To: glass@Bungi.com
Subject: Re: What you can do with patterns
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@computer.net>
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 19:09:44 +0000
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> I agree with Albert
> that publication of designs creates somewhat of a gray area. 

Oh, sorry. I wasn't clear: it's black and white ... you can't 
republish the patterns in any way *as *patterns. So you couldn't buy 
"Lighthouses I Have Known and Loved" and reprint them as "Lighthouses 
I Have Known and Loved, Too."  That would violate the copyright. But 
since the patterns have been published as patterns to use in the 
creation of stained glass, the finished stained glass panel is yours 
to do with as you like, keep or sell to anyone, although the pattern 
isn't yours.

> Having said all that, I'll also share with you how I came to be a member of
> this group.  pj Friend stumbled upon our website and was kind enough to
> e-mail me with some nice compliments and a tip that I should have a
> copyright notice on our work!  Still haven't gotten to it, but it's on my
> list of things to get to before the end of the decade.

There's nothing wrong with putting the notice on your site, Dani, but 
it's not strictly necessary. These days, as soon as something's 
written, drawn, painted or otherwise created in any way/shape/form or 
fashion, it's immediately copyrighted. (Which doesn't mean that I 
don't put the notice on things; I do!) <s>

Albert
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From owner-glass Tue May 13 16:10:21 1997
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From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@computer.net>
To: glass@BUNGI.COM
Subject: Re: What you can do with patterns
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@computer.net>
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 19:16:01 +0000
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> Recently we asked for bids on some photo work and were surprised
> that at least one photographer had conditions such as:
> 	we could only use the photos for two years, beyond that 
> 		there was an additional royalty charge,
> 	only one use of the photos was permitted such as in a brochure 
> 		(catalog use was prohibited)

Oh, Charles, I think I *know that photographer! <s> Was his name 
"Wayne"? I could tell you a story about 4x5 shots we paid for in 
Illinois, flying the photographer there, putting him up, paying an 
outlandish daily rate (well, he is a good photographer), then a Scene 
At The Airport, where he refused to allow airline folks take a look 
at his "black bag" without explaining that it was all exposed, 
unprocessed film in there (this was just after the Lockerbie bombing 
and everyone was very nervous). Then he wanted to hold us up for 
thousands of dollars for "anguish and pressure," or something like 
that. We told him to "go fish."

Albert
----
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From owner-glass Tue May 13 16:24:58 1997
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X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Pricing Pieces
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 19:21:53 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May13.152153.0>
References: <<m0wRJhj-000LcbC@netbistro.com>>
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J. Smith wrote:
> 
> P.S Thanx Wayne for the advice , I will keep that in mind!
> 
> Hi to all!  I know this is probably a subject beaten to death.....
> but...how do you price your pieces????? No Algebra please as I was
> never good at it! My neighbour is wanting to buy a piece I have hanging
> in the window (It's a one square ft.piece with about 25 pieces , tulips
> and leaves , with an irradecent border Oh It's copper foiled..........
> Mostly water glass. I'm sure this is difficult and maybee the begining
> stages of Becoming A Professional (just excited today)!!!.......
> 
> Thanx in advance
> Jennifer the newbie
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

if you charged around $2.00 $2.50 per piece, that should be ok. you can
add a little extra if they are hard to cut.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141

New Pages Added:

 - New Instructional Guides Added!!!
 - The Creative Process
 - How to Find Patterns for Suncatchers
 - Picking Out Glass in the Store

 - Plus New Photos
 - 5 New Pictures in the 3-D Catagory
 - 2 New Pictures in the Panel Catagory
 - Updated Shots of The Heart of Atlantis, and Japanese Garden

 - But That's Not All!!!
 - My Links Page is UP!
 - And Awards Page Too
----
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From owner-glass Tue May 13 18:31:40 1997
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Did I  get "zapped" ????
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@mail.nildram.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 01:36:47 +0000
Message-ID: <199705140130.CAA07609@linux.nildram.co.uk>
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Hi Bunginians,
On 9th May I posted a serious request that I wanted feed-back from 
all of you. Not a single reply came forth. Dd I get "zapped" ???
I repeat the request again, just in case....
Elisabeth 'n Toby

qoute:
Hi all Bunginians,

In my e-mail mailbag recently, I received below request. It intrigued 
me. I responded a couple of time, pointing out that I was actually 
located in UK and was I the right person to help.  The replies I 
received were very friendly and apologetic.  The whole tone of the 
correspondence made me feel confident in turning to the wonderful 
resources of my friends at Bungi:
Any suggestions in response to the below please, other than sources I 
can offer in Europe.....??????
Here goes:

Hello, I am an editor with the Salvation Army, and I am searching for a
picture of stained glass that I can use for a cover of the magazine for which
I work. I am looking for a stained glass art that shows beautiful refractions
of light, and suggesting a sense of cubism as that light streams forth. We
want to superimpose on this glass a side view of a simple creche, indicating
that the "King to a manger borne," that is, Christ was born in humble
beginnings but has a great destiny. 

Do you have anything that might apply. I realize this is a strange request,
but if you do not have anything, can you recommend a source?

thanks

Jeff McDonald
Managing Editor
Salvation Army National Publications USA

END OF QUOTE
On/Off Group replies and suggestions very welcome.
Elisabeth 'n Toby
----
----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
----
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From owner-glass Tue May 13 18:56:39 1997
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Did I  get "zapped" ????
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 21:53:28 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May13.175328.0>
References: <<199705140130.CAA07609@linux.nildram.co.uk>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Toby wrote:
> 
> Hi Bunginians,
> On 9th May I posted a serious request that I wanted feed-back from
> all of you. Not a single reply came forth. Dd I get "zapped" ???
> I repeat the request again, just in case....
> Elisabeth 'n Toby
> 
> qoute:
> Hi all Bunginians,
> 
> In my e-mail mailbag recently, I received below request. It intrigued
> me. I responded a couple of time, pointing out that I was actually
> located in UK and was I the right person to help.  The replies I
> received were very friendly and apologetic.  The whole tone of the
> correspondence made me feel confident in turning to the wonderful
> resources of my friends at Bungi:
> Any suggestions in response to the below please, other than sources I
> can offer in Europe.....??????
> Here goes:
> 
> Hello, I am an editor with the Salvation Army, and I am searching for a
> picture of stained glass that I can use for a cover of the magazine for which
> I work. I am looking for a stained glass art that shows beautiful refractions
> of light, and suggesting a sense of cubism as that light streams forth. We
> want to superimpose on this glass a side view of a simple creche, indicating
> that the "King to a manger borne," that is, Christ was born in humble
> beginnings but has a great destiny.
> 
> Do you have anything that might apply. I realize this is a strange request,
> but if you do not have anything, can you recommend a source?
> 
> thanks
> 
> Jeff McDonald
> Managing Editor
> Salvation Army National Publications USA
> 
> END OF QUOTE
> On/Off Group replies and suggestions very welcome.
> Elisabeth 'n Toby
> ----
> ----
> As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
> North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
> http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm
> ----
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

i personally could'nt think of anything, it sounds a bit artsy/religousy
so i could'nt really help.

but on the lighter side i finished my project, and am starting to write
more pages for my site...

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141

New Pages Added:

 - New Instructional Guides Added!!!
 - The Creative Process
 - How to Find Patterns for Suncatchers
 - Picking Out Glass in the Store

 - Plus New Photos
 - 5 New Pictures in the 3-D Catagory
 - 2 New Pictures in the Panel Catagory
 - Updated Shots of The Heart of Atlantis, and Japanese Garden

 - But That's Not All!!!
 - My Links Page is UP!
 - And Awards Page Too
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
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From owner-glass Tue May 13 19:01:09 1997
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X-Path: voicenet.com!hilary
From: "Hilary A. Bobker" <hilary@voicenet.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: "Saguaro Sunset" pattern
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 21:03:10 +0000
Message-ID: <1997May13.21310.0>
References: <<m0wQwfc-000LiCC@why.az.stratus.com>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: HABit Fashion Services
Precedence: bulk

> if you have access to a xerox machine and a small picture of it, you can
> make it yourself. 

Geezzee, Charles,

Marilyn is asking where to buy this pattern and you tell her to rip it
off with a xerox machine. What's the difference between that and
pirating software? Please rethink your position.

Hilary
----
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From owner-glass Tue May 13 19:08:55 1997
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From: "Hilary A. Bobker" <hilary@voicenet.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Attn Philly Area Bungians
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 21:11:06 +0000
Message-ID: <1997May13.21116.0>
References: <<1997May12.194142.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: HABit Fashion Services
Precedence: bulk

> day.. It would be almost impossible for me to get there that early and leave
> my four legged buddy for that many hours.

Bubstah,

Sorry you can't make it, but I totally understand. I can only go 'cause
the "furry tornado" is being left with hubby.

I'll try and post a note with info etc.

Take care,
Hilary
----
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From owner-glass Tue May 13 19:49:26 1997
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X-Path: ComCAT.COM!suzy
From: suzanne albright <suzy@ComCAT.COM>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: Pricing Pieces
Date: Tue, 13 May 97 22:50:31 -0400
Message-ID: <199705140247.WAA16336@uz.comcat.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk



Jennifer the newbie wrote: 
>> Hi to all!  I know this is probably a subject beaten to death.....
>> but...how do you price your pieces????? 

Jennifer, there are two ways to look at it: Your time plus materials.
Materials are pretty cut and dried. Then assign yourself an hourly rate 
that you are willing to accept, multiply that by the number of hours you 
took to make the piece, add the materials, and that's the price.

Another way to check that is, $50 per square foot, plus $1 per piece of 
glass cut. With me it comes out somewhat the same.

A third way would be, a straight fee per square foot. I have been told 
that ranges from $75 to $100. Or Mike Savad's way of $2, $2.50 per piece. 
They all work out relatively the same.

Good luck, I remember the feeling of selling my first pieces. Elation!!

Suzanne Albright
>> 
>> Thanx in advance
>> Jennifer the newbie
>> 
>> ----
>> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
>if you charged around $2.00 $2.50 per piece, that should be ok. you can
>add a little extra if they are hard to cut.
>
>---Mike Savad
>
>-- 
>Mike's Stained Glass
>http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
>
>New Pages Added:
>
> - New Instructional Guides Added!!!
> - The Creative Process
> - How to Find Patterns for Suncatchers
> - Picking Out Glass in the Store
>
> - Plus New Photos
> - 5 New Pictures in the 3-D Catagory
> - 2 New Pictures in the Panel Catagory
> - Updated Shots of The Heart of Atlantis, and Japanese Garden
>
> - But That's Not All!!!
> - My Links Page is UP!
> - And Awards Page Too
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>


suzy dot com
<suzy@comcat.com>

----
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From owner-glass Wed May 14 05:37:23 1997
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X-Path: water.waterw.com!artglass
From: artglass@water.waterw.com (pj friend)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Request for photos!!From Elisabeth!!!
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 08:36:41 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <199705141236.IAA13300@water.waterw.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Elisabeth,
No you didn't get zapped here....

Sorry I didn't respond to your request...I might have some photos of work
that just might work for this gentlemen.  If you take a look at our site you
might see something there or I have a zillion others.

The url is http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/artglass.

How and where do the photos need to be sent?  I apologize again for missing
the request. We are moving into a new studio and well.....I must admit I did
overlook it.

Just let me know.
my best,
pj


----
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From owner-glass Wed May 14 06:18:41 1997
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X-Path: digital.net!agw
From: Jennifer Daniels <agw@digital.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Art Glass World Update
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 09:18:04 -0400 (GMT)
Message-ID: <199705141318.JAA01607@ddi.digital.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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--Art Glass World Update--

New Members--

Glass Art Magazine
Glass Art features successful artists, full color reproduction of the
nation's finest glass works, practical and easy-to-read information on
all forms of glass art, business articles for the professional, the latest
information in the industry, and much more. Subscribe online before
June 30th and save 25%.  Visit at http://www.artglassworld.com/mag/glassart.
	
Featured Articles: 
	Restoration- by Arthur Femenella 
Femenella traces the steps involved in the restoration of windows for
St. Paul's Episcopal Church on Nantucket. 
	Cappy Thompson: Narrative, Mythopesis and the Vessel Form
- by Shawn Waggoner
Using a process for painting stained glass windows developed in the
Middle Ages, Seattle artist Thompson creates intelligent "picture
poems" which marry mythology, folk styles and self-expression.

Warner-Crivellaro
Since 1971, Warner-Crivellaro has dedicated itself to offering its
customers the most complete selection of stained glass products and
supplies. Our extensive inventory and well-stocked showrooms provide
a mecca for stained glass hobbyists from all over the United States,
Canada, and abroad.  Visit by clicking on WC's name from 
http://www.artglassworld.com/members.html.
================================================================
Jennifer Daniels                    agw@digital.net
Art Glass World                     http://www.artglassworld.com
4002 W. State Street                phone: 813-348-0605
Tampa, FL  33609  USA               fax: 813-872-6288
================================================================

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From owner-glass Wed May 14 06:23:40 1997
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X-Path: nortel.ca!rstoker
From: "Richard Stoker" <rstoker@nortel.ca>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Help: Anyone have B&W streamer glass??
Date: 14 May 1997 09:18 EDT
Message-ID: <m0wRe1P-0000IWC@daver.bungi.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I need a largish piece of B&W streamer (no fractures) on clear made by 
Bullseye.  I made a piece several years ago using this glass and now the 
client wants a companion piece....I require approx 4 sq ft.  and it is no 
longer in production according to all my usual sources of supply.  Does 
anyone happen to have a piece out there they would be willing to part 
with?  

Regards,
Richard Stoker
Turtle Bay Studios
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From owner-glass Wed May 14 08:29:03 1997
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X-Path: westbyserver.westby.mwt.net!alcamoz
From: len alcamo <alcamoz@mwt.net>
To: glass@BUNGI.COM
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: What you can do with patterns
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 10:27:17 -0500 (CDT)
Message-ID: <199705141527.KAA19172@westbyserver.westby.mwt.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

At 07:09 PM 5/13/97 +0000, Albert Lewis wrote:
> 
>> Boy, someones going to splash your work all over the place in a brochure and
>> your going to squeeze them for a reproduction right fee? I dunno. How about
>> just a credit on the printed material? Seems more neighborly. 
>
>Of course, if the photo's used on the cover of PhotographyToday and 
>the owner of the window is paid $10,000 by the magazine for the right 
>to republish the photo of your work, you might feel less neighborly. 
>
>albert


Albert, if one of my *pieces* made the the cover of a national magazine I
would venture to guess that it would be worth far more then 10 thou in
potential commissions. Ofcourse  ideally it would be great to have the 10
thou and the value of this type of exposure, which takes me back to my
original statement in which I was attemping to say that the exposure and
publicity generated by having your work featured in an ad or brochure etc.
as long as you received proper credit in print, is more valuable then what?
a couple of hundred for the rights. Realistically how much would someone
pony up before they said the heck with it and use something else in their
layout? I love this hypothetical stuff :-)

Len

  

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From owner-glass Wed May 14 10:06:20 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!MARGEM
From: MARGEM@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: What you can do with patterns
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 13:05:19 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <1997May14.9519.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Just a couple thoughts on copyrights, to clarify a couple of points:

Linda Campbell wrote:

"Seems to me that once I change the pattern to suite me, it's mine."

You would have to change the pattern so much that no one could recognize that
it was based on the original. 

Mike Savad wrote:

"I really can't see how they can enforce this, even if you choose a slightly
different color of glass, you can use it against them, besides who's gonna
know? What are the changes that the person of the book is going to come, then
recognize it."

Choosing a different color of glass doesn't make a bit of difference. You
would still have a copyright violation. As far as enforcing it, sorry Mike,
that part's easy.

As far as who's gonna know, you wouldn't believe how may calls we get from
people all over the world (even Europe) informing us of copyright violations.
Actually, there's a very good chance the artist will know. People call me all
the time telling me who's copying or selling our patterns or panels made from
our patterns. Lots of the calls I get are from retail shops complaining about
other retail shops!

You know, the easiest way to take care of the whole issue is, if you want to
use a design to sell some finished panels, call the artist and ask for
permission. Why second guess whether what you want to do is legal or not.

Many times the artist will just grant you permission to use the design to
make panels to sell at craft shows and small shops. If someone wants to
produce and sell on a grander scale, you may have to enter into a licensing
agreement where you return a small percentage of the sales back to the
artist. 

I would much rather talk to someone about what they want to do with our
designs rather than have to write unpleasant letters to people about
copyright violations. So, please, communicate with the artist . . . you may
be pleasantly surprised with the answer you get.

Marge
CKE Publications
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From owner-glass Wed May 14 10:06:55 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!MARGEM
From: MARGEM@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: What you can do with patterns
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 13:05:23 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <1997May14.9523.0>
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Sorry Albert,

Copyright does cover items produced from the patterns. There's no question
about that.

Marge
CKE Publications
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From owner-glass Wed May 14 10:15:51 1997
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X-Path: westbyserver.westby.mwt.net!alcamoz
From: len alcamo <alcamoz@mwt.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: tiffany restoration (long)
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 12:14:00 -0500 (CDT)
Message-ID: <199705141714.MAA24764@westbyserver.westby.mwt.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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>
>>  There are very few situations when windows should not be removed for
>> repair,  if the window required rebracing or if the window needed minor
>> repairs and is puttyed into stone tracery, would be a couple of examples.
>
>Okay, Len, I'm with you so far if I understand you correctly: you're 
>saying that it's a rare thing for windows being restored to *not be 
>removed, right? I'd agree with that.

Yes Albert thats what I was trying to say. I'll write that paragraph off as my 
*Savadism*  of the week ;-)

>
>> If the windows need restoration (ambiguous term) but does not require a
>> complete relead, I recommend using a company that will do the work ON SITE
>> as opposed to carting them off somewhere. Many studios are equipped and
>> experienced to perform work in this manner. The work will get done faster,
>> safer and it gives you opportunity to have the work scrutinized in 
>progress.
>
>But here I have to take exception. Apart from the most minor repair 
>work, windows being restored should be removed, crated, taken to the 
>studio and worked on flat. To do otherwise may save the client money 
>in the short run, but the hazards to the windows are greatly 
>increased. The client will be glad of the money saved today, but the 
>windows will *not be better off for not having been handled properly.

 I'm sorry Albert but I have never been able to see a clear advantage to
taking windows off site, a relead being the major exception.   

Why?

The number of times the windows have to be handled for one

--- taken down
--- more likely to be removed from sash (high potential for additional damage)
--- crated
--- shipped by? common carrier ...yikes!  studio vechicle? what if.. god
forbid a         roll-over on an icey road?
--- uncrated at studio by who? *Herman, ace restorer from Germany* I'm sure
he'll drop       everything and run to the loading dock or *klutz jr. the
bookkeeper's kid who started     last week? 
--- then reverse the process and do it again

Back to the site... how much additional time will be required? a week at
minimum, a month what do you do with the window openings in the mean time?
cut and fit plywood? lot of additional hours and expense. Staple up plastic?
nice.

On site..
--- priliminary leg work completed repair glass matched and on site
--- painted work done and on site.
--- fully equipped self-contained crew shows up
--- work station set up in building
--- window taken down, glass replaced, bulges taken out, lead joints
resoldered etc. etc.
--- window reinstalled

How can it get any better then that? There are no proceedures that can be
done any better in the studio. There are a lot of roadies out there that
know their stuff

I'm sorry Albert but this notion that all restoration work has to be done in
the studio to me is basically a high end marketing gimmick, and a big money
maker, perpatrated by the so called conservators. Reminds me of that old TV
commercial where the guy is driving around looking to get a new muffler and
he stops at this one place and a gent comes out wearing a white lab coat
holding a clipboard and says with a european accent "Yes we can do it but it
will take three weeks and you have to leave the car!"

Obviously I've slanted the scenarios in my favor ;-)  but I do have strong
feeling about this issue. If in-studio restoration becomes the norm a lot of
windows will be neglected because institutions will be scared off by the costs.

My .20 worth :-)

Len
 

  


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From owner-glass Wed May 14 12:23:19 1997
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From: "Dave & Lynn Loda" <dloda@nwi.net>
To: "bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Pansy pattern
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 12:28:35 -0700
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Precedence: bulk

I'm in need of locating a large pattern incorporating pansies.  If anyone
has seen a onen in the many floral pattern books out there, I would
appreciate if you would drop me a line either on bungi or e-mail. 
dloda@nwi.net

Thanks

Dave 
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From owner-glass Wed May 14 14:19:19 1997
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X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: What you can do with patterns
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 17:15:53 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May14.131553.0>
References: <<1997May14.9519.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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MARGEM@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Just a couple thoughts on copyrights, to clarify a couple of points:
> 
> Linda Campbell wrote:
> 
> "Seems to me that once I change the pattern to suite me, it's mine."
> 
> You would have to change the pattern so much that no one could recognize that
> it was based on the original.
> 
> Mike Savad wrote:
> 
> "I really can't see how they can enforce this, even if you choose a slightly
> different color of glass, you can use it against them, besides who's gonna
> know? What are the changes that the person of the book is going to come, then
> recognize it."
> 
> Choosing a different color of glass doesn't make a bit of difference. You
> would still have a copyright violation. As far as enforcing it, sorry Mike,
> that part's easy.
> 
> As far as who's gonna know, you wouldn't believe how may calls we get from
> people all over the world (even Europe) informing us of copyright violations.
> Actually, there's a very good chance the artist will know. People call me all
> the time telling me who's copying or selling our patterns or panels made from
> our patterns. Lots of the calls I get are from retail shops complaining about
> other retail shops!
> 
> You know, the easiest way to take care of the whole issue is, if you want to
> use a design to sell some finished panels, call the artist and ask for
> permission. Why second guess whether what you want to do is legal or not.
> 
> Many times the artist will just grant you permission to use the design to
> make panels to sell at craft shows and small shops. If someone wants to
> produce and sell on a grander scale, you may have to enter into a licensing
> agreement where you return a small percentage of the sales back to the
> artist.
> 
> I would much rather talk to someone about what they want to do with our
> designs rather than have to write unpleasant letters to people about
> copyright violations. So, please, communicate with the artist . . . you may
> be pleasantly surprised with the answer you get.
> 
> Marge
> CKE Publications
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


well, in either case it really would'nt apply to me too much. since i
always try to do my own patterns.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141

New Pages Added:

 - New Instructional Guides Added!!!
 - The Creative Process
 - How to Find Patterns for Suncatchers
 - Picking Out Glass in the Store

 - Plus New Photos
 - 5 New Pictures in the 3-D Catagory
 - 2 New Pictures in the Panel Catagory
 - Updated Shots of The Heart of Atlantis, and Japanese Garden

 - But That's Not All!!!
 - My Links Page is UP!
 - And Awards Page Too
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From owner-glass Wed May 14 14:26:18 1997
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X-Path: compuserve.com!GreerStudios
From: "Michael J. Greer" <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: All <GLASS@BUNGI.COM>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: What you can do with....
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 17:24:07 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May14.13247.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Albert-

What I really want to put on my web site is "Member - International Guild=

of Glass Artists".  Do I get anything from the Guild after I join up to l=
et
me know it's official?  Or can I add that to my site any time?  Thanks. =


Best regards,

Dani Greer
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From owner-glass Wed May 14 14:28:25 1997
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X-Path: tvutel.com!jandj
From: jandj@tvutel.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Did I  get "zapped" ????
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 16:29:32 -0500
Message-ID: <1997May14.112932.0>
References: <<199705140130.CAA07609@linux.nildram.co.uk>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Toby wrote:
> 
> Hi Bunginians,
> On 9th May I posted a serious request that I wanted feed-back from
> all of you. Not a single reply came forth. Dd I get "zapped" ???
> I repeat the request again, just in case....
> Elisabeth 'n Toby
> 
> qoute:
> Hi all Bunginians,
> 
> In my e-mail mailbag recently, I received below request. It intrigued
> me. I responded a couple of time, pointing out that I was actually
> located in UK and was I the right person to help.  The replies I
> received were very friendly and apologetic.  The whole tone of the
> correspondence made me feel confident in turning to the wonderful
> resources of my friends at Bungi:
> Any suggestions in response to the below please, other than sources I
> can offer in Europe.....??????
> Here goes:
> 
> Hello, I am an editor with the Salvation Army, and I am searching for a
> picture of stained glass that I can use for a cover of the magazine for which
> I work. I am looking for a stained glass art that shows beautiful refractions
> of light, and suggesting a sense of cubism as that light streams forth. We
> want to superimpose on this glass a side view of a simple creche, indicating
> that the "King to a manger borne," that is, Christ was born in humble
> beginnings but has a great destiny.
> 
> Do you have anything that might apply. I realize this is a strange request,
> but if you do not have anything, can you recommend a source?
> 
> thanks
> 
> Jeff McDonald
> Managing Editor
> Salvation Army National Publications USA
> 
> END OF QUOTE
> On/Off Group replies and suggestions very welcome.
> Elisabeth 'n Toby
> ----
> ----
> As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
> North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
> http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm
> ----
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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I tried to send this to you yesterday but could'nt send i'll try again. 
I think that the best photos would be closeups (under a microscope) of a
gem stone that will give the best refraction of light.  I am a prcision
gem cutter and have seen what that person is talking about.  Photos can
be obtained through various gem publications like Keystone and the
lapidary Journal.  Also the smithsonium in DC has had some real great
ones for superimposing.
hope this helps and gets through
Jackie
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X-Path: computer.net!alewis
From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@computer.net>
To: glass@BUNGI.COM
Subject: Re: What you can do with....
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@computer.net>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 18:15:59 +0000
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> What I really want to put on my web site is "Member - International 
> Guild of Glass Artists".  

Absolutely all right. In fact, we'll tell you where to get a logo 
online and how to link it to your site. Do you have a web address 
yet? You know you get a free page as a member, don't you?

> Do I get anything from the Guild after I join up to l et
> me know it's official?  Or can I add that to my site any time?  

Yes, there's a membership kit being packed for you right now. It 
includes logos for letterhead, checks, etc.

Albert
Albert Lewis, Executive Director
International Guild of Glass Artists
A 501(c)(6) nonprofit organization
Tonetta Lake Road, Brewster NY 10509
(914) 278-2152   Fax: (914) 278-2481
_________________________________________________________
http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/ [home page]
http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/guide.htm [Sources Guide]
http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/links.htm [Members' Work]

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From owner-glass Wed May 14 15:09:25 1997
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From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@computer.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: tiffany restoration (long)
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@computer.net>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 18:15:59 +0000
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>  I'm sorry Albert but I have never been able to see a clear advantage to
> taking windows off site, a relead being the major exception. 

I'll try to keep my to a mere 1c worth, continuing your 
muffler-replacement analogy: I'd rather have my car fixed in the 
garage where they have the parts and the equipment to do the job 
right, than have them come out and fix it in my driveway.

I don't think the mechanics are running a scam on me by requiring 
that my car be left in their shop any more than serious restoration 
studios are running one for doing the job right. Of course, you and I 
can disagree about any of this, because this is such a great country.

Albert
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From owner-glass Wed May 14 15:09:34 1997
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From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@computer.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: What you can do with patterns
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@computer.net>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 18:15:59 +0000
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> Copyright does cover items produced from the patterns. There's no question
> about that.

There's no doubt about the fact that the pattern itself is 
copyrighted and I wouldn't say anything else. But are you saying that 
nobody can sell a piece of work created with a copyrighted pattern? 
Do you know of any instances in which that's been enforced? 
Personally, I'd be very surprised to hear that it could be.

Albert
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From owner-glass Wed May 14 15:36:23 1997
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From: George & Gloria <3hounds@usaor.net>
To: "'Dave & Lynn Loda'" <dloda@nwi.net>, bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: RE: Pansy pattern
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 18:22:41 -0100
Message-ID: <1997May14.172241.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk



There is a nice pansy pattern in The Tiffany Mosiac Pattern Book..  I =
believe it might  be the first book.. But it is three pansies with stems =
and leaves..

Good luck,
Gloria

----------
From:  Dave & Lynn Loda[SMTP:dloda@nwi.net]
Sent:  Wednesday, May 14, 1997 6:29 PM
To:  bungi
Subject:  Pansy pattern

I'm in need of locating a large pattern incorporating pansies.  If =
anyone
has seen a onen in the many floral pattern books out there, I would
appreciate if you would drop me a line either on bungi or e-mail.=20
dloda@nwi.net

Thanks

Dave=20
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From: George & Gloria <3hounds@usaor.net>
To: "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>,
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: RE: Attn Philly Area Bungians
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 18:31:45 -0100
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Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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Also, if any new techniques  are offered could you pass along.. =
Appreciated the spray paint on the back of cathedral glass for stepping =
stones from the last trip..
Thanks
Gloria

----------
From:  Hilary A. Bobker[SMTP:hilary@voicenet.com]
Sent:  Tuesday, May 13, 1997 8:11 PM
To:  glass@bungi.com
Subject:  Re: Attn Philly Area Bungians

> day.. It would be almost impossible for me to get there that early and =
leave
> my four legged buddy for that many hours.

Bubstah,

Sorry you can't make it, but I totally understand. I can only go 'cause
the "furry tornado" is being left with hubby.

I'll try and post a note with info etc.

Take care,
Hilary
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From owner-glass Wed May 14 16:59:42 1997
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From: Garry McKenna <mnvve3@kwic.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Swan pattern
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 19:57:54 -0400
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At 11:24 PM 13/5/97 -0700, you wrote:
>Linda,
>
>	My address is 19 Lynn Drive, Jeffersonville, PA 19403.  BTW, don't you
>want me to reimburse you for the pattern?  If so, how much?  And thanks
>very much!  Meigan Cooper
>
>
Meigan
   Nah!  Not to worry. I'm glad to be able to do something for a fellow
glass artist! It will be in the mail tomorrow.

Linda

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From: Delphi Stained Glass <delphigl@voyager.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: What you can do with patterns
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 20:06:20 -0400 (EDT)
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Albert,

>There's no doubt about the fact that the pattern itself is 
>copyrighted and I wouldn't say anything else. But are you saying that 
>nobody can sell a piece of work created with a copyrighted pattern? 
>Do you know of any instances in which that's been enforced? 
>Personally, I'd be very surprised to hear that it could be.

We've heard several horror stories from customers who have tried to sell
pieces made from the book "Mickey and Friends" at craft shows.  The finished
pieces are seized and worse.

Stephanie

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From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@computer.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: What you can do with patterns
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@computer.net>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 20:32:49 +0000
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> >Do you know of any instances in which that's been enforced? 
> >Personally, I'd be very surprised to hear that it could be.
> 
> We've heard several horror stories from customers who have tried to sell
> pieces made from the book "Mickey and Friends" at craft shows.  The finished
> pieces are seized and worse.

Well, I meant legally, of course, through court enforcement, not 
800-pound gorillas working for Michael Eisner. Handling it that way, 
they don't have to turn to the courts and thus force the craftsperson 
to sue *them instead.  I'll have to give the copyright specialist I 
know a call to see what he says about this.

What does "and worse" mean? Thugs with sledgehammers?

Albert
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From: "Michael J. Greer" <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: All <GLASS@BUNGI.COM>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Reading materials?
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 20:53:09 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May14.16539.0>
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Hi All-

I'm just getting my "suggested reading" list together for my class, and
rather than just my old standards, I thought I'd ask you all to each send=

me your favorite stained glass book title, your favorite glass magazine,
and in ten words or less why they're your favorites.  It's a college clas=
s,
but a short one so I'll have hobbyists as well as art students - I'd like=

to provide some good reading material for everyone, and something that wi=
ll
be beneficial to each in the long run.  Thanks for the help!

Best regards,

Dani Greer
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From owner-glass Wed May 14 18:21:53 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!SusieHUs
From: SusieHUs@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Attn Philly Area Bungians
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 21:20:54 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <1997May14.172054.0>
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Gloria,

Just curious... did you try that spray paint idea?  I've been considering it
myself.  What kind of paint did you use?  Any pointers?

Thanks,
Susie
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X-Path: juno.com!jroey
From: jroey@juno.com (Jerri M Roey)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Spray paint
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 22:33:45 EDT
Message-ID: <1997May15.23345.0>
References: <<1997May14.172054.0>>
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Hi,

	I tried the spray paint.  I didn't have any bumper paint (keep
meaning to get some), but I had some metallic silver enamel and used it
on a red cathedral in a stone.  It worked great.

Jerri



On Wed, 14 May 1997 21:20:54 -0400 (EDT) SusieHUs@aol.com writes:
>Gloria,
>
>Just curious... did you try that spray paint idea?  I've been 
>considering it
>myself.  What kind of paint did you use?  Any pointers?
>
>Thanks,
>Susie
>----
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From owner-glass Wed May 14 19:41:49 1997
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From: "Peggy W. Johnsen" <edupjohn@slonet.org>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Attn Philly Area Bungians
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 19:36:06 -0700 (PDT)
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Susie:  I am not Gloria but I did try the spray paint idea and love it.
Found out that the bumper paint is good for the cool colors and a gold
tone paint is good for the warm colors.  My students loved it.  Peggy

On Wed, 14 May 1997 SusieHUs@aol.com wrote:

> Gloria,
> 
> Just curious... did you try that spray paint idea?  I've been considering it
> myself.  What kind of paint did you use?  Any pointers?
> 
> Thanks,
> Susie
> ----
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> 

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From: "Hilary A. Bobker" <hilary@voicenet.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Attn Philly Area Bungians
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 21:43:20 +0000
Message-ID: <1997May14.214320.0>
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> Also, if any new techniques  are offered could you pass along.. =
> Appreciated the spray paint on the back of cathedral glass for stepping =
> stones from the last trip..

Hi, Gloria and everybody who's asked...

I will try to post a note about what Angelo shows us. This is assuming
that I understand it enough to try and describe it! <g>

Hilary
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Subject: Re: Attn Philly Area Bungians
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 22:59:05 -0400
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Great, look forward to your post, Philly is too far for me to go from
Florida-  :-)  ;)  

Lee Boe
> 
> Hi, Gloria and everybody who's asked...
> 
> I will try to post a note about what Angelo shows us. This is assuming
> that I understand it enough to try and describe it! <g>
> 
> Hilary
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From: "M.-J. Taylor" <athena@bridge.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: What you can do with patterns
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 23:32:46 -0400
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In response to Mike Savad, Marge of CKE Publications wrote:

>>As far as enforcing it, sorry Mike, that part's easy.<<

Okay, it's easy to enforce, but how often do you really enforce (sue)
someone? I'd be interested to know how many times you follow up those leads
and send a letter asking (demanding) they stop selling products made from
your patterns without permission. How often have you sued someone?

I'd guess the cost of suing for copyright infringement is not worth the
cost of filing the suit.

Just curious.

M.-J.

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From owner-glass Wed May 14 20:50:34 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!StnGlsTres
From: StnGlsTres@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Reading materials?
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 23:49:48 -0400 (EDT)
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In a message dated 97-05-14 22:08:42 EDT, Dani wrote:

<< I'm just getting my "suggested reading" list together for my class >>

Umm.....don't have a favorite book I can think of, don't have many stained
glass books yet besides pattern books......but my favorite magazine is
Stained Glass News because I always get a lot of information from it (now if
they'd ONLY do subscriptions....and come out once a month.....or every two
weeks......heehee).  (sorry, Albert, I just joined IGGA so haven't read
Common Ground Glass enough yet to say much about it.....)

Once you get your list together, Dani, I'd love to get a copy of it....and
I'm sure others would as well, perhaps you could post it here?

Steph ~
Stephanie Hansen
Stained Glass Treasures
http://members.aol.com/StnGlsTres
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From owner-glass Wed May 14 20:57:18 1997
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From: SUGR5@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Reading materials?
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 23:56:16 -0400 (EDT)
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  >>>>       I thought I'd ask you all to each send=

me your favorite stained glass book title, your favorite glass magazine,
and in ten words or less why they're your favorites. 


anyone sending info to Dani, I would like a copy of your list too>

Thanks
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From owner-glass Wed May 14 21:48:38 1997
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From: "M. Cooper" <shmfcoop@concentric.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Swan pattern
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 00:50:33 -0700
Message-ID: <1997May14.175033.0>
References: <<1.5.4.32.19970514235754.0068f734@mail.kwic.com>>
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Linda,

	That's very generous of you - thanks again!  I'm really looking forward
to completing this project, after all, my grandmother's in good health,
but she is 87!  Thank you!  Meigan
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From owner-glass Wed May 14 22:54:10 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!SusieHUs
From: SusieHUs@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Reading materials?
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 01:53:34 -0400 (EDT)
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Hi Dani,

I like Stained Glass Secrets because it's concise, covers a lot, has photos
to help see what's going on and is clear enough for a beginner like me!

I have several pattern books that I like but I don't think that that's what
you're looking for, right?  

Susie
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From owner-glass Thu May 15 03:57:50 1997
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From: "last name: Anthony" <panthony@mail.bcpl.lib.md.us>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=koi8-r
Subject: Re: Spray paint mosaic glass
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 06:57:08 -0400
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I have used WHITE spray paint (cheapo hardware store brand) on blue
cathedral and it worked beautifully. Tried putting mirror behind it to
guage effect of chrome paint -- it was too "sharp" (?) visually for what
I was doing, but an interesting effect to try another day.
--SB
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From owner-glass Thu May 15 05:06:42 1997
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At 08:53 PM 5/14/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Hi All-
>
>I'm just getting my "suggested reading" list together for my class, and
>rather than just my old standards, I thought I'd ask you all to each send=
>
>me your favorite stained glass book title, your favorite glass magazine,
>and in ten words or less why they're your favorites.  

My favorite book is Decorative Doorways Stained Glass Pattern Book by
Carolyn Relei.  This book is my favorite because quite simply I've used
more patterns from that book than any other single book.

Garden of Glass
Joyce Moran


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From owner-glass Thu May 15 05:27:10 1997
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Subject:      Re: What you can do with patterns
Date:         Thu, 15 May 97 08:24:26 EDT
Message-ID:   <970515.082616.EDT.HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu>
References: <<199705150006.UAA10401@vixb.voyager.net>>
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Re "mickey and Friends"...I assume that is Mickey Mouse.  There you
are also running up against Disney trademarks, and Disney is zealous
(for good reason, too) in protecting their property and its value.

--
Dorothy Kalahan, Interlibrary Loan  (860) 679-2940  FAX (860) 679-4046
UCONN Health Center Library, POB 4003, Farmington CT 06034-4003
HCLADM02@UConnVM.uconn.edu
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From owner-glass Thu May 15 06:39:20 1997
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From: Paula Nelson <pjnjril@ngai.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: What you can do with patterns
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 08:11:00 -0500
Message-ID: <199705151340.IAA29218@email6.starnetinc.com>
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Scott wrote:

>for you is because it was made from a nice design. Therefore, we also 
>expect to start receiving a small part of the income, which involves a
small >royalty fee.

I'm curious ;), how much would be the royalty fee (in percentage) that you
would use? I've always wondered just how to do this. Thanks in advance.


Paula
glasdawg@ngai.com
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
The Glass Dog Studio

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From owner-glass Thu May 15 07:02:24 1997
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From: JesJason@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: 5/15/97
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 10:01:36 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <1997May15.6136.0>
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McFrenzy,

Can you tell me how to cut a concave 90 degree angle on one piece of glass? I
am working on a mosaic brick and it would be much better looking and easier
if I could make the corner one piece of glass instead of two.

Thanks

jesse
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From owner-glass Thu May 15 07:26:13 1997
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From: mcFrenzy <pristine@gr.cns.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: 5/15/97
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 10:17:26 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May15.61726.0>
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For the tightest possible inside corner try drilling a hole at the next
to the point where two lines meet. then score and break the glass up to
the hole.
Note that in many cases the lead is manipulated to look like a 90 degree
angle whereas the glass is actually cut to a tight radius.

This is a risky practice. It produces a seemingly weak spot. Handle with
care.

JesJason@aol.com wrote:
> 
> McFrenzy,
> 
> Can you tell me how to cut a concave 90 degree angle on one piece of glass? I
> am working on a mosaic brick and it would be much better looking and easier
> if I could make the corner one piece of glass instead of two.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> jesse
> ----
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From owner-glass Thu May 15 07:32:14 1997
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: 5/15/97
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 10:29:00 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May15.6290.0>
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JesJason@aol.com wrote:
> 
> McFrenzy,
> 
> Can you tell me how to cut a concave 90 degree angle on one piece of glass? I
> am working on a mosaic brick and it would be much better looking and easier
> if I could make the corner one piece of glass instead of two.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> jesse
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


unless you use a bandsaw, you wont be able to do that. you may be
allowed to use the one in your stained glass store, if they let you. i
did it once with out a saw, alot of tapping was involved and there was
still a hairline crack in the corner. another possible method would be
to make a cut as deep as possible. then grind the rest with a small
diameter bit.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141

New Pages Added:

 - New Instructional Guides Added!!!
 - The Creative Process
 - How to Find Patterns for Suncatchers
 - Picking Out Glass in the Store

 - Plus New Photos
 - 5 New Pictures in the 3-D Catagory
 - 2 New Pictures in the Panel Catagory
 - Updated Shots of The Heart of Atlantis, and Japanese Garden

 - But That's Not All!!!
 - My Links Page is UP!
 - And Awards Page Too
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From owner-glass Thu May 15 08:42:46 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!MARGEM
From: MARGEM@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: What you can do with patterns
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 11:41:48 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <1997May15.74148.0>
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M.-J. writes:

"How often do you really enforce (sue) someone? . . . how many times you
follow up those leads and send a letter asking (demanding) they stop selling
products made from your patterns without permission?"

I don't want to leave the impression that my copyright attorney is on
speed-dial No. 1 and I sit here just waiting to hammer someone with a
lawsuit. I believe we have only gone beyond the letter asking people to stop
twice. Certainly, lawsuits are very expensive and you must decide whether the
infringement is worth pursuing.

Additionally, I am not trying to stop every mom and pop basement studio from
selling suncatchers at craft fairs. I also realize people use our designs for
commission pieces all the time . . . that doesn't bother me. What bothers me
is when we find people mass-producing product from our designs. Then, I would
much rather enter into a licensing agreement than sue.

Marge
CKE
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From owner-glass Thu May 15 08:43:21 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!MARGEM
From: MARGEM@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: What you can do with patterns
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 11:41:34 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <1997May15.74134.0>
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Albert asks:

"Are you saying that nobody can sell a piece of work created with a
copyrighted pattern? . . . Do You know of any instances in which that's been
enforced?

Yes.

If you want to sell a piece of work created with a copyrighted pattern,
legally you must have permission from the copyright owner.

Has it been enforced?

Yes, many times.

One instance was when we discovered someone mass-producing pieces from one of
our designs and selling them through a mail order catalog. We contacted our
copyright attorney and nipped that one right in the bud. (By the way, if that
person had requested permission to use the pattern, we would have granted
permission subject to a small royalty being returned to the artist for every
piece sold.)

Marge
CKE Pubs
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From owner-glass Thu May 15 10:20:34 1997
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From: len alcamo <alcamoz@mwt.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: tiffany restoration (long)
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 12:18:24 -0500 (CDT)
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At 06:15 PM 5/14/97 +0000, Albert Lewis wrote:
>
>>  I'm sorry Albert but I have never been able to see a clear advantage to
>> taking windows off site, a relead being the major exception. 
>
>I'll try to keep my to a mere 1c worth, continuing your 
>muffler-replacement analogy: I'd rather have my car fixed in the 
>garage where they have the parts and the equipment to do the job 
>right, than have them come out and fix it in my driveway.

Albert, bungi buddy extraordinaire and fellow Dumpster Club charter member
:-) since you have decided not to specifically address any of the points I
raised and since these restoration threads generate about as much interest
as watching submarine races, I'll close my end out by taking the muffler
replacement analogy and applying my point of view by saying why not in the
driveway?  pro installer shows up with OEM muffler, pipes and clamps, proper
jacks, cutting torch, portable compressor, misc tools installs muffler, on
his way. Beats having a tow truck show up and winch your car up on a flat
bed and drive off to be seen again who knows when.  
>
>I don't think the mechanics are running a scam on me by requiring 
>that my car be left in their shop any more than serious restoration 
>studios are running one for doing the job right. Of course, you and I 
>can disagree about any of this, because this is such a great country.
>
>Albert

Never said it was a scam, I said it was a marketing gimmick, high end
conservators do a fabulous job and have introduced methods that have
elevated the industry standard, all the better for everyone. They have also
shot down the work of many fine artisans by vigorously implying that if you
repair a window and it doesn't last 300 years your doing the job wrong.
These folks know that they are not going to get that *Vatican Gig* but they
go out and do first rate work often at small churches with very limited
resources and the windows will last a mere 75 years..is that the wrong way?
Please do not take offense Albert but it should be clear for the record that
you do have a vested interest in supporting the opposing view. I have
nothing to gain and I'm just offering  information that is correct to the
best of my knowledge based on my own experience.

Your friend,

Len


 
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>
>

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From owner-glass Thu May 15 10:41:19 1997
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From: len alcamo <alcamoz@mwt.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Help: Anyone have B&W streamer glass??
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 12:39:38 -0500 (CDT)
Message-ID: <199705151739.MAA20488@westbyserver.westby.mwt.net>
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At 09:18 AM 5/14/97 EDT, Richard Stoker wrote:
>I need a largish piece of B&W streamer (no fractures) on clear made by 
>Bullseye.  I made a piece several years ago using this glass and now the 
>client wants a companion piece....I require approx 4 sq ft.  and it is no 
>longer in production according to all my usual sources of supply.  Does 
>anyone happen to have a piece out there they would be willing to part 
>with?

Sorry I can't help with the glass Richard, but I think black streamers on
clear might still be in production, maybe, as I believe its fusable, you can
pull some white rod and fuse it there by making up your own?..... Dumb idea?
Just a thought.

Len


>Regards,
>Richard Stoker
>Turtle Bay Studios
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>

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From owner-glass Thu May 15 10:45:03 1997
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From: "Michael J. Greer" <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: All <GLASS@BUNGI.COM>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Reading Materials?
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 13:44:05 -0400
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I will be glad to post a list of stained glass books and magazines when I=

get a good list together.  Haven't gotten very many faves, so start
sendin'! (Anything from beginner to pro).  Thanks!

Best regards,

Dani Greer

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From owner-glass Thu May 15 11:05:00 1997
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From: leestat7 <leestat7@home.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: What you can do with patterns
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 14:00:51 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May15.10051.0>
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Organization: @Home Network
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Hi Marge,

I, and I'm sure many others on the list, really appreciate yours and
Scott's explanation on small quantities of work produced with 'book
patterns'.  Several times I have not done a piece that I really liked,
which I would have sold at an Art Show, because I did not want to
infringe on a copyright.  (I'm talking 3-6 pieces of one pattern, done
in different colors, for example).  I will be happy now, to drop the
Book authors or publishers a line, expressing interest, and asking
permission to do a few pieces of one of their patterns.

CKE is one of the largest publishers of good pattern books I know of,
and with this reassurance will be much more inclined to buy more pattern
books for my Art and Craft fair work.  Since I have had to drop off to 
6-10 shows a year, (health reasons) it will be a time saver to include
in my small inventory.  

Thank You again,

Lee Boe
Rain-Boe's Creations


> I don't want to leave the impression that my copyright attorney is on
> speed-dial No. 1 and I sit here just waiting to hammer someone with a
> lawsuit. I believe we have only gone beyond the letter asking people to stop
> twice. Certainly, lawsuits are very expensive and you must decide whether the
> infringement is worth pursuing.
> 
> Additionally, I am not trying to stop every mom and pop basement studio from
> selling suncatchers at craft fairs. I also realize people use our designs for
> commission pieces all the time . . . that doesn't bother me. What bothers me
> is when we find people mass-producing product from our designs. Then, I would
> much rather enter into a licensing agreement than sue.
> 
> Marge
> CKE
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From owner-glass Thu May 15 11:50:24 1997
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From: "Robert E. Jones" <rejones@CapAccess.org>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: What you can do with patterns
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 14:54:34 -0400 (EDT)
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References: <<199705142208.SAA13931@ns.computer.net>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

> > Copyright does cover items produced from the patterns. There's no question
> > about that.

If this is actually the case, then no one but the creator of the design 
can sell the piece without the actual written permission of the creator 
of the design.  That would make a lot of stained glass pieces throw aways 
because they could not be resold.

Bob

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From owner-glass Thu May 15 11:56:19 1997
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From: "Robert E. Jones" <rejones@CapAccess.org>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: What you can do with patterns
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 15:00:43 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <1997May15.11043.0>
References: <<199705150025.UAA01597@ns.computer.net>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

> We've heard several horror stories from customers who have tried to sell
> pieces made from the book "Mickey and Friends" at craft shows.  The finished
> pieces are seized and worse.

There is a difference between copyright and trademark infractions.

The latter is much more serious to these people.  All of the characters' 
likenesses are trademarked by Disney (as well as copyrighted).  If you 
did an original design (aand I mean original sketch of Mickey, no tracing 
or looking at another picture, etc.) you would get the same treatment.

Do not mess with a trademark.

Bob

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From owner-glass Thu May 15 12:38:04 1997
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X-Path: nwi.net!dloda
From: "Dave & Lynn Loda" <dloda@nwi.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Re: Pansy pattern
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 12:42:10 -0700
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Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Gloria;

Thanks for responding to my request.  I was aware of the Tiffany Gardens
book & should have posted that.  Question fo you,  you sent my two posts,
the first I received came over fine without = signs. The second as you can
see has the ==
Any idea what causes this.

Thanks again

Dave & Lynn
Art Glass of Wenatchee

----------
> From: George & Gloria <3hounds@usaor.net>
> To: 'Dave & Lynn Loda' <dloda@nwi.net>; bungi <glass@bungi.com>
> Subject: RE: Pansy pattern
> Date: Wednesday, May 14, 1997 12:22 PM
> 
> 
> 
> There is a nice pansy pattern in The Tiffany Mosiac Pattern Book..  I =
> believe it might  be the first book.. But it is three pansies with stems
=
> and leaves..
> 
> Good luck,
> Gloria
> 
> ----------
> From:  Dave & Lynn Loda[SMTP:dloda@nwi.net]
> Sent:  Wednesday, May 14, 1997 6:29 PM
> To:  bungi
> Subject:  Pansy pattern
> 
> I'm in need of locating a large pattern incorporating pansies.  If =
> anyone
> has seen a onen in the many floral pattern books out there, I would
> appreciate if you would drop me a line either on bungi or e-mail.=20
> dloda@nwi.net
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Dave=20
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> 
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From owner-glass Thu May 15 12:51:05 1997
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From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@computer.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: (Fwd) Re: Quick copyright question
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Here's what my copyright attorney had to say about the question 
before us ... which I pass along for you to enjoy while I eat crow. 
<s>  He said:

"There mght be some chance there is protection to the copyright owner
under the "derivative works" doctrine.  But overall, copyright only
protectes the expression of the idea in one meadium of expression. 
Thus while a glass creation using a copyrighted pattern might be an
"infringement" (thus opening the issue to statutory damages, etc.),
it's rather disingenuous to infer someone can infringe so long a they
pay a royalty and ask permission."

Munch, munch.

Albert


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Subject: Re: Reading materials?
Date: Thu, 15 May 97 10:02:01 PDT
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Dani,

I would also like a copy of your reading list, and would 
second the suggestion that  you post it to the group.  Would 
definitely appreciate it!

Dawn


> Once you get your list together, Dani, I'd love to get a copy of it....and
> I'm sure others would as well, perhaps you could post it here?
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From owner-glass Thu May 15 13:53:07 1997
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From: suzanne albright <suzy@ComCAT.COM>
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Subject: Re: (Fwd) Re: Quick copyright question
Date: Thu, 15 May 97 16:54:05 -0400
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>
>"There mght be some chance there is protection to the copyright owner
>under the "derivative works" doctrine.  But overall, copyright only
>protectes the expression of the idea in one meadium of expression. 
>Thus while a glass creation using a copyrighted pattern might be an
>"infringement" (thus opening the issue to statutory damages, etc.),
>it's rather disingenuous to infer someone can infringe so long a they
>pay a royalty and ask permission."

Hey Albert,

This sounds like "lawyerese" to me. Disingenuous? Where does that leave 
me?
*s*



suzy dot com
<suzy@comcat.com>

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From owner-glass Thu May 15 14:08:55 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!StndGlass1
From: StndGlass1@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: What you can do with patterns
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 17:08:17 -0400 (EDT)
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<< If this is actually the case, then no one but the creator of the design 
 can sell the piece without the actual written permission of the creator 
 of the design.  That would make a lot of stained glass pieces throw aways 
 because they could not be resold. >>

They are not throw aways.  The point is that they can be resold!  No one is
saying that you can never take a pattern from a book, make it and sell it.
 All that is being said, and it is the law, is that you must ask first.

I'm not too sure what all of the confusion is about.  It seems only fair to
me.  If you designed a pattern, would you not want someone to ask before they
duplicated it and sold it?

Jenna Meredith
Meredith Stained Glass
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From owner-glass Thu May 15 15:48:55 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!ScottSGN
From: ScottSGN@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: What you can do with patterns
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 18:47:55 -0400 (EDT)
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Paula wrote:

>I'm curious ;), how much would be the royalty fee (in percentage) that you
>would use? I've always wondered just how to do this. Thanks in advance.

Since this was a response to something I posted, I'll respond. But keep in
mind I'm only speaking for SGN Publishing. Each publisher probably has a
different way of figuring royalty payments.

As I mentioned previously, if you're selling a few projects from this book
and a few from that book at craft fairs or consignment shops, that's fine
with us. We're glad that you like our patterns and have found places to sell
them.

However, if you're selling one particular project over and over, we assume
that a *small* part of the reason for this is because it was made from an
attractive design. Therefore, we expect to be able to compensate the designer
by receiving a *small* royalty fee.

We don't expect a royalty until someone has sold 10 or more projects made
from the same pattern. And what's the royalty percentage? Well, that can vary
a little depending on the situation. For example, you may be selling
wholesale and have to keep your selling price as low as possible so the
retailer you sell to can mark it up and make money, too. In this case, the
royalty would probably be lower than if you were selling to the consumer at
full "retail." Due to these (and other) variables, there isn't a single flat
percentage that we use. (This is why we ask you to contact us!) But,
regardless of the situation, the royalty never exceeds 10% of your selling
price.

Hope this helps,

Scott
SGN Publishing
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From owner-glass Thu May 15 16:06:28 1997
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From: Chris Orowitz <glashack@iglou.com>
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Subject: Re: What you can do with patterns
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 19:04:39 -0400
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MARGEM@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Additionally, I am not trying to stop every mom and pop basement studio from
> selling suncatchers at craft fairs. I also realize people use our designs for
> commission pieces all the time . . . that doesn't bother me. What bothers me
> is when we find people mass-producing product from our designs. Then, I would
> much rather enter into a licensing agreement than sue.


Hi All, 
I have been a lurker for quite a while on this list and overall have
found it to be very enjoyable.  This year I have finally decided to do
some craft fairs and consignments.  With all the talk about copyrights
over the course of time I was a bit afraid to make designs out of the
pattern books for fear of being sued.  I went through the books I had
and picked out my favorites and sat down and wrote some letters for
permission.  With the exception of one person that I wrote to all were
extremely nice and gave me permission to use their patterns. Marge was
one the exceptionally nice people to communicate with. Overall, I was
surprised at the number of pieces they allowed to be made.  It really
isn't hard all it takes is a little time, plus I think it is only fair.
I know I would not want my patterns duplicated without giving my
permission.

I too would be interested to know the average percentage being charged
for royalties.
I seriously doubt I'd ever get that big to have to worry about it, but
you never know.

Chris Orowitz
glashack@iglou.com
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From owner-glass Thu May 15 17:31:57 1997
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Subject: Re: What you can do with patterns
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 20:36:12 -0400 (EDT)
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On Thu, 15 May 1997 StndGlass1@aol.com wrote:

> They are not throw aways.  The point is that they can be resold!  No one is
> saying that you can never take a pattern from a book, make it and sell it.
>  All that is being said, and it is the law, is that you must ask first.
> 
> I'm not too sure what all of the confusion is about.  It seems only fair to
> me.  If you designed a pattern, would you not want someone to ask before they
> duplicated it and sold it?

Jenna,

We have not been talking about duping and selling the pattern.  We are 
now discussing whether or not a finished piece, based on a design needs 
to have a royalty paid because it was done from some one's pattern.

There are some who are saying that if YOU (Jenna) creates and publishes a 
pattern, others that complete a piece from that pattern and sell the 
finished piece have to pay you a royalty.

My point was, if I create a piece from your pattern and sell it (with 
your permission) to a customer, then if that customer wants to sell it 
some years later, they must also get your permission.  If you don't give 
it, they're screwed.  And a bigger problem, what if they sell it as part 
of a piece of furniture or their house, do you still need your permission?

I totally agree that copyrights have to be protected.  If you publish a 
pattern and sell it, when I buy the pattern, whether in a book or 
individually, I assume that I have your permission to make that piece and 
do with it as I please.  If I make more than one, then again I should 
probably pay you some more money (since I used the pattern again).

Whoa!  These things make me think too much.  When that happens, it makes 
my head hurt. ;-}

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From owner-glass Thu May 15 17:33:59 1997
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From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@computer.net>
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Subject: Re: What you can do with patterns
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> I'm not too sure what all of the confusion is about.  It seems only fair to
> me.  If you designed a pattern, would you not want someone to ask before they
> duplicated it and sold it?

The confusion for me, Jenna, arose from my understanding that the
pattern's copyright prevents anyone else from reprinting the *pattern
and reselling it as a pattern, but it was being said that not only the
pattern's protected, any item produced with the pattern is
protected, too!  I didn't know that.

If someone publishes a pattern in a pattern book, the buyer buys it 
with the understanding that the patterns will be used to produce 
items, some of them possibly for resale. I think it's understandable 
that the buyer of the book can't reproduce the *book or any single 
patterns for resale (nor even copy a single page and *give it to 
anyone else) without violating the copyright.  I didn't know (and 
have had my understanding corrected) that the work product itself is 
also protected by the copyright.

I think the publishers and designers of patterns who've spoken up 
here have made some good points, are justifiably concerned about huge 
numbers of pieces being made from what was (obviously) a good design 
without some sort of remuneration coming back to them, as well.  
"Good attitude" abounds in those comments, understanding of the 
situation faced by the makers of the products and certainly no 
hostile tactics (a la Disney) have been suggested.

It seems to me, though (and correct me if I'm wrong) that this all 
has yet to be tested. In the Art World, too, painters (for instance) 
have also tried to "participate" in resales of their work.  I think 
it was Jackson Pollack who sold a painting for (let's say) $10,000 in 
the 60s, but who wanted a piece of the action when it sold (let's 
say) for $1,000,000 in the 90s.  I think the current owner of the 
painting, as well as the new buyer, told him to "go fish." (On 
second thought, it wasn't Jackson Pollack, but someone else just as 
well known).

Albert
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From owner-glass Thu May 15 17:34:03 1997
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From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@computer.net>
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Subject: Re: (Fwd) Re: Quick copyright question
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> This sounds like "lawyerese" to me. Disingenuous? Where does that leave 
> me?

Well, copyright is legalese, so it's only natural that comments 
on legal stuff sound legalistic. <s>  Where does it leave you?  You 
can buy patterns and use them to create work, but neither the work 
created with a copyrighted pattern nor the pattern itself "belongs" to 
you in the sense that you own the pattern in print or in glass.

But you can sell the work created with the pattern or give it away, 
even though you can't sell the paper pattern or give *that away.  
That is, you can sell the work, as long as you don't make more than 
(vague number) of them.  If you make more than (vague number) of 
them, you have to ask permission, which will (apparently) be given. 
If you want to make (huge number) of them, you'll get permission to 
do so at a price that the publisher deems fair and to which you will 
agree because it *is fair.

What's happening is that the publishers and designers of the patterns 
are giving you tacit (that is, "unspoken") permission to create and 
sell (vague number) finished pieces based on their patterns, as 
long as you will ask them if you make more than (vague number) or 
as long as you will pay them a royalty if you want to make (huge 
number) of them.

If my tongue seems to be shoved ever so slightly into my cheek, it 
is, 'tis. <s>  But I think the facts of the matter are right.

Albert
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From owner-glass Thu May 15 17:37:16 1997
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From: wmunro@mars.ark.com (Wayne Munro)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: What to do with the patterns
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 17:35:17 -0700
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Greetings to all: 

..Sounds like a bunch of lawyers about to get rich again. They will sue you
for anything including 'your dog stepped on my side of the street!' Of
course, they don't care, they get paid win or lose. Ask one if he/she will
take the case but only get paid if they win-- and see what the answer is!!

..It would seem to me that the person who designed the pattern in the first
place, gave up their right to copyright when they in fact 'published' the
pattern and in fact--'sold that pattern and book to you'.  If they wished to
keep it, they should not have sold it, published it or sold it! I would
suggest you have more rights to that "Pattern" if you can show that it was
in fact offered for sale and you 'legally' purchased it.

..The charge you make on selling of the pattern is in fact false. You are
selling the artwork, glass and labour for the project---not the pattern!
The "Pattern" is the only thing under copyright--not the artwork around it.
Just don't reproduce and sell the "Pattern"!!

..Go ahead and sell the darn thing!! 

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From owner-glass Thu May 15 19:38:02 1997
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X-Path: netins.net!sae
From: Scott Evans <sae@netins.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Cutting by hand?
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 21:36:21 -0500 (CDT)
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I'm in the process of designing a stained-glass piece that has some edges
that would be impossible to grind, due to some internal points on the
pieces.  Is there a recommended way of cutting pieces like this?  Obviously
a glass band saw would be ideal, but since I currently lack the resources to
purchase one of these, is there a way of sawing a piece like this by hand
(say with a hacksaw or a keyhole saw and a special blade??

Thanks!
Scott

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From owner-glass Thu May 15 20:10:59 1997
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X-Path: ComCAT.COM!suzy
From: suzanne albright <suzy@ComCAT.COM>
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Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: (Fwd) Re: Quick copyright question
Date: Thu, 15 May 97 23:13:00 -0400
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Albert Lewis wrote:
>What's happening is that the publishers and designers of the patterns 
>are giving you tacit (that is, "unspoken") permission to create and 
>sell (vague number) finished pieces based on their patterns, as 
>long as you will ask them if you make more than (vague number) or 
>as long as you will pay them a royalty if you want to make (huge 
>number) of them.
>
>If my tongue seems to be shoved ever so slightly into my cheek, it 
>is, 'tis. <s>  But I think the facts of the matter are right.

Thank you Albert, for clarifying the copyright matter in layman's terms.
Though your tongue was in your cheek, to me it's no longer Greek! *s*

Suzanne


Suzanne Albright
<suzy@comcat.com>

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From owner-glass Thu May 15 20:29:03 1997
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Subject: Re: Cutting by hand?
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 23:24:54 -0400
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Hi ,

You might try a 'Jeweler's Saw" with a very fine blade.  A basic saw and
packet of blades is not teribly expensive, and might do the job.  You
would drip oil or water on the piece you are cutting.  Hope the pieces
are very small, as this is a slow process.  The silver or gold sheets or
castings this is usually used for are quite small in comparason to
glass.  This is just speculation, as I have not tried it.  If no one
else has a better idea, I'll try this myself and give you a report on
how (or if) it worked.  I have the saw and blades, and plenty of scrap
glass to try.  Give me an idea of what kind of glass (water glass,
cathedral, etc) and will try it for you.  Better idea, if you are close
to a retail store that you could use a 'demo' band saw or ring saw.  A
jewelers saw is a type of keyhole saw, and the blades are about 6 inches
long.  You'll bust lots of blades while learning the process, they are
usually sold by the 'pack' of about a dozen. A 'bench pin' to steady the
work is easy to rig.  Be happy to explain further if you want.

Lee Boe
Rain-Boe's Creations



Scott Evans wrote:
> 
> I'm in the process of designing a stained-glass piece that has some edges
> that would be impossible to grind, due to some internal points on the
> pieces.  Is there a recommended way of cutting pieces like this?  Obviously
> a glass band saw would be ideal, but since I currently lack the resources to
> purchase one of these, is there a way of sawing a piece like this by hand
> (say with a hacksaw or a keyhole saw and a special blade??
> 
> Thanks!
> Scott
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From owner-glass Thu May 15 20:43:59 1997
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X-Path: arn.net!loveta
From: Loveta Elmore <loveta@arn.net>
To: "'glass@BUNGI.COM'" <glass@BUNGI.COM>
Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="---- =_NextPart_000_01BC6181.09249880"
Subject: RE: Dani and Michael /  class room instruction and reading materials
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 22:04:10 -0500
Message-ID: <1997May15.17410.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


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After teaching at the local university for years, the most valuable =
reading material was mine.  After every class I would spend 15 minutes =
writing notes.  I would list everything I thought was successful,  all =
the frustrations the students seemed to be having with that particular =
class and what I could do or have my Instructors do to help. =20

This was the most valuable time I spent.   Most instruction books a =
geared toward helping the beginner at home, which is great.  But =
teaching in the classroom is very different and your students expect a =
great deal more.  I am  in the process of writing  a book for teaching =
in the classroom. =20

Would love any feed back.  Was this helpful?

Loveta



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From owner-glass Thu May 15 20:44:34 1997
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	for rglass-42; Thu, 15 May 1997 20:43:10 -0700 (PDT)
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X-Path: arn.net!loveta
From: Loveta Elmore <loveta@arn.net>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="---- =_NextPart_000_01BC6181.0D122660"
Subject: RE: copy right patterns and what can happen
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 22:38:42 -0500
Message-ID: <1997May15.173842.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


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Seems to be so much interest and confusion  in designs and copy rights.=20

 Just want to share a story.  Many years ago, back in the days before I =
went professional, I was involved in many craft shows.  At that time =
there was a well known artist in my area named  Betsy Clark, who did =
really sentimental drawings of children,  maybe adults also, I don't =
remember.  Anyway, a giant craft show is going on, and several of my =
friends have done things like purses, plaques, etc with Betsy Clark =
designs on them.

On the second day these lawyers from New York show up and approach  all =
the people who have Betsy Clark designs on their crafts and tell them =
they are in violation of copy right laws.  Two of my friends were =
married to lawyers.  The next day after phone calls going on most of the =
night, everyone with copies of Betsy Clark designs  pulled out after =
realizing what could happen.

People don't realize how liable they are if they a caught.  Copy right =
laws were written for a reason.

The biggest confusion seems to be understanding that an original  design =
that is copy righted does have rights.

And it can be costly if violated.

Loveta

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From owner-glass Thu May 15 21:07:07 1997
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Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m0wSEHx-0000BOa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Thu, 15 May 1997 21:06:41 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #7 built 1997-May-7)
X-Path: arn.net!loveta
From: Loveta Elmore <loveta@arn.net>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="---- =_NextPart_000_01BC6184.35249AE0"
Subject: RE: Using copy right patterns/ following Scott SGN advice.
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 23:03:15 -0500
Message-ID: <1997May15.18315.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


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 I didn't mention in my previous  message,  I have used copy righted =
designs in my business.  I always called and discussed what my plans =
were, and many times I was not charged anything, but the important thing =
was : I did it the right way.  That is all the artist asks. =20

Loveta

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From owner-glass Thu May 15 21:21:30 1997
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X-Path: sagelink.net!pkelly
From: "Pat Kelly" <pkelly@sagelink.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Re: Help: Anyone have B&W streamer glass??
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 23:19:39 -0500
Message-ID: <199705160429.XAA22803@sage.sagelink.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Richard asked for B&W streamer glass. I think I've found some. I'll attempt
to describe it to make sure it is what he wants. It is Bullseye Glass,
black thread like streamers running through a clear background,
additionally it contains a white confetti like substance about 1/2"
squares. This glass was purchased wholesale by a local dealer from
Mid-America Stained Glass. Currently thats all I know. If anyone needs more
information; i.e., phone number, address of wholesaler, etc. Just post or
e-mail me. E-mail is pkelly@sagelink.net.

As a last resort I'll purchase it and make arrangements with Richard for
shipping.

Roses and Rainbows to all

Pat Kelly



----------
> From: Richard Stoker <rstoker@nortel.ca>
> To: glass@bungi.com
> Subject: Help: Anyone have B&W streamer glass??
> Date: Wednesday, May 14, 1997 8:00 AM
> 
> I need a largish piece of B&W streamer (no fractures) on clear made by 
> Bullseye.  I made a piece several years ago using this glass and now the 
> client wants a companion piece....I require approx 4 sq ft.  and it is no

> longer in production according to all my usual sources of supply.  Does 
> anyone happen to have a piece out there they would be willing to part 
> with?  
> 
> Regards,
> Richard Stoker
> Turtle Bay Studios
> ----
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From owner-glass Thu May 15 22:20:52 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!StndGlass1
From: StndGlass1@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: What you can do with patterns
Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 01:18:02 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <1997May15.21182.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I see what you are saying.  However, when I pay $15 for a book, I personally
don't think that gives me the right to make thousands of dollars off of a
pattern inside.  The artists gear the books MAINLY towards hobbyists, who are
making for gifts and for personal enjoyment.  It makes perfect sense to me
that if you want to make a whole bunch of something, and then sell it and
make a lot of money, then the artist who made the design you used is entitled
to more than the small amount of your original $15 investment that made it
back to their pockets.  Just my 2 cents.

Jenna Meredith
Meredith Stained Glass 
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From owner-glass Fri May 16 03:50:34 1997
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X-Path: computer.net!alewis
From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@computer.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: What you can do with patterns
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@computer.net>
Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 06:56:51 +0000
Message-ID: <199705161049.GAA03134@ns.computer.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

> that if you want to make a whole bunch of something, and then sell it and
> make a lot of money, then the artist who made the design you used is entitled
> to more than the small amount of your original $15 investment that made it
> back to their pockets. 

That makes sense to me, too. All of the confusion and questions on 
this point could be easily resolved if the pattern publishers would 
include a note on their publications to the effect that purchase of 
the pattern (or pattern book) includes license to make as many as ten 
(for example) pieces of finished work from each of the patterns as 
gifts or for resale, but that permission must be requested for 
production of more than that. Then give the address of the Royalties 
and Permissions Department for making that request of the designer or 
publisher to re-use their pattern(s) more than the automatic license 
requires.

Seems to me that that would make everything crystal clear.

Albert
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From owner-glass Fri May 16 03:51:09 1997
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X-Path: computer.net!alewis
From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@computer.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: What to do with the patterns
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@computer.net>
Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 06:56:51 +0000
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> ..It would seem to me that the person who designed the pattern in the first
> place, gave up their right to copyright when they in fact 'published' the
> pattern and in fact--'sold that pattern and book to you'.  If they wished to
> keep it, they should not have sold it, published it or sold it! I would
> suggest you have more rights to that "Pattern" if you can show that it was
> in fact offered for sale and you 'legally' purchased it.

Not! They don't give up their rights at all. If you'll look at the 
response from the copyright attorney I consulted you'll see quite 
clearly that they own the pattern whether in print or incorporated 
into the piece you've created from the pattern. Selling the pattern 
doesn't invalidate the copyright any more than Norman Mailer's books 
lose their copyrights when they're published and you buy them.
 
> ..The charge you make on selling of the pattern is in fact false. You are
> selling the artwork, glass and labour for the project---not the pattern!
> The "Pattern" is the only thing under copyright--not the artwork
> around it. Just don't reproduce and sell the "Pattern"!! Go ahead
> and sell the darn thing!! 

Nope, it's not false. Your attitude on this is exactly what mine was 
until a couple of days ago. Asking the copyright attorney to explain 
the ground rules on this question clarified it in my mind and I hope 
you'll understand, as well. And of course you can go ahead and "sell 
the darn thing!" <g> Even the publishers and designers of patterns 
who've participated in this discussion say you can "sell the darn 
thing." It's only when you sell a gazillion of the "darn thing" that 
they are going to want part of the action.

Think of it this way: you're a two-person studio ... you, the 
fabricator of the work, and the designer, the creator of the pattern 
for the work you're fabricating. They agree to produce twenty 
patterns and bind them into a booklet for you to use to create 
finished work. For that they agree to be paid $15 as long as you 
build no more than (say) ten of each of the patterns. Pretty cheap. 
But, says the designer, if you create more than ten of any of them, I 
should get a percentage of the profit, since it was my patterns that 
made it possible for you to sell those hundreds of reproductions.

If you want to keep all of the profits, design your own patterns. 
It's not really that hard.

Albert
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From owner-glass Fri May 16 04:25:28 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!Yegnim
From: Yegnim@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Dani and Michael / class room instruction and reading materials
Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 07:25:02 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <1997May16.3252.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

From:  Eleanor (yegnim@aol.com)
> am in the process of writing a book for teaching in the classroom.
>Would love any feed back.

This sounds great!!!  I would be first in line to make a purchase!
Would this include design elements also?  I would love to have my designs
personally, and with a class, critiqued.  Since this is not possible,
anything on design would be an extra asset.
Good luck with your project!
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From owner-glass Fri May 16 05:47:46 1997
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	for rglass-42; Fri, 16 May 1997 05:47:09 -0700 (PDT)
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X-Path: busprod.com!artist
From: artist@busprod.com (LJ Maas)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: copyright melee
Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 07:51:37 -0500
Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.19970516075137.0069d5b0@busprod.com>
References: <<199705160035.RAA19536@mars.ark.com>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Just a couple of points to add my thoughts to all of this...
To play devil's advocate on the matter of pattern reproduction; I
definitely understand where everyone(designer, publisher, and customer) is
coming from here, but let me ask a question to simply ponder. I agree that
mass production of someone else's design is simply wrong without
permission, but to have to request permission when I use a pattern from a
book that I paid for, for the few pieces I sell, strikes me as odd. Isn't a
pattern book produced so that others may reproduce the item(s)? Do clothing
patterns come under the same such copyrights?

Secondly, just to let you know what it can be like from the other side...I
quit a job as an Art Director for a magazine to move to Oklahoma. I created
and did the artwork for the logo that still resides on the cover of the
mag. This was a project close to my heart so I made up a contract giving
the logo to the company with provisions...that I retain the right to use
the artwork if I so desired without "re-selling" it as a logo and also that
the only compensation I would require would be recognition as the artist
printed in the mag.

When I left the job, the next issue neglected to run my name giving me
credit for the artwork. I mentioned it to the publisher and they fixed that
on the next issue. A number of issues had no aknowledgement at all. With
the most recent issue, not only is my name NOT there, but it gives credit
for "cover design & artwork" to the new Art Director!

So, what do you do? It's not worth anything for me to sue and becomes time
consuming to constantly write letters. I have to give up for the time being
and tell myself that I know who did the artwork.
Stuff to ponder...LJ
  ****************************************************************
LJ Maas: artist@busprod.com
ART WITH ATTITUDE Stained Glass Design
"Unique Stained Glass Creations"
<http://www.art-with-attitude.com/glass/artglass.html>

OVER THE RAINBOW Webpage Design & Consulting
<http://www.art-with-attitude.com/rainbow.html>
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From owner-glass Fri May 16 06:14:16 1997
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X-Path: memach.com!lcbell
From: Linda Campbell <lcbell@memach.com>
To: "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>, "'LJ Maas'" <artist@busprod.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: RE: copyright melee
Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 09:13:47 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May16.51347.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Oooh, interesting parallel. I've never seen anything mentioning McCalls, =
Simplicity or Butterick requiring you to ask permission before you use =
their patterns for cloths or for crafts for resale.=20

I did get a very nice e-mail from Scott at SGN and I intend to ask for =
his permission to use the patterns to make items for resale in a small =
craft shop. It is doubtful that I will make enough to require me to pay =
royalties (more than 10 of any pattern) mainly because I am easily bored =
and can't see myself making the same item over and over.

Linda Campbell


----------
From:  LJ Maas[SMTP:artist@busprod.com]

Isn't a pattern book produced so that others may reproduce the item(s)? =
Do clothing
patterns come under the same such copyrights?



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From owner-glass Fri May 16 07:01:52 1997
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X-Path: televar.com!fishbait
From: Bonnie Clark <fishbait@televar.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Patterns
Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 07:00:37 -0700
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Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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So do patterns for say crocheted and knitted items that are often also
seen at craft shows also fall in this category?  Certainly those pattern
books must be sold with the intention of someone making the items and
possibly selling them.  
Bonnie Clark
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From owner-glass Fri May 16 07:11:20 1997
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X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Cutting by hand?
Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 10:07:59 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May16.6759.0>
References: <<199705160236.VAA30092@insosf1.netins.net>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Scott Evans wrote:
> 
> I'm in the process of designing a stained-glass piece that has some edges
> that would be impossible to grind, due to some internal points on the
> pieces.  Is there a recommended way of cutting pieces like this?  Obviously
> a glass band saw would be ideal, but since I currently lack the resources to
> purchase one of these, is there a way of sawing a piece like this by hand
> (say with a hacksaw or a keyhole saw and a special blade??
> 
> Thanks!
> Scott
> 
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no the glass would probably shatter weither when cutting or during
soldering because of micro-fractures. also note, if it's going to be
difficult to grind it will be difficult to foil...unless were still
talking about the mosiac.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141

New Pages Added:

 - New Instructional Guides Added!!!
 - The Creative Process
 - How to Find Patterns for Suncatchers
 - Picking Out Glass in the Store

 - Plus New Photos
 - 5 New Pictures in the 3-D Catagory
 - 2 New Pictures in the Panel Catagory
 - Updated Shots of The Heart of Atlantis, and Japanese Garden

 - But That's Not All!!!
 - My Links Page is UP!
 - And Awards Page Too
----
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From owner-glass Fri May 16 12:22:50 1997
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X-Path: compuserve.com!GreerStudios
From: "Michael J. Greer" <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: All <GLASS@BUNGI.COM>
Subject: pattern melee
Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 15:21:08 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May16.11218.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Albert writes, "If you want to keep all of the profits, design your own
patterns.  It's not really that hard.

It's true - after you've built a few dozen pieces using a canned pattern,
you get enough sense of the medium to know what it can do... and can't do. 
Just pick something around you and draw it - the simpler, the better. 
Then, look at the drawing as though you're seeing a pattern.  You'll know
what adjustments to make.  Everyone of you has the ability inside of you to
create your own designs.  Just try it - you'll amaze yourselves.  Start
looking at things around you, start drawing (where all good art begins) and
soon you'll have more pattern ideas than you'll be able to build in a
lifetime.               
Best regards,

Dani Greer
----
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From owner-glass Fri May 16 12:23:06 1997
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X-Path: compuserve.com!GreerStudios
From: "Michael J. Greer" <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: All <GLASS@BUNGI.COM>
Subject: copyright melle
Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 15:21:20 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May16.112120.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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LJ Maas writes "I quit my job as an Art Director..." 

Now you're getting into another arena --- work-for-hire, and the rules are
slightly different.  We have a similar experience.  Michael, in his twenty
plus years in glass art, has worked for two other studios as designer. 
He's had his own studio for nine years.  The other two studios still have
Michael's designs in their portfolios - they are essentially competing with
us using our own work!  Recently, we had a customer stop in to price check
a design that turned out to be Michael's from umpteen years ago and the
other studio was charging 70% more than we would charge today! You might
say that those situations really gripe my glass!  But, there isn't anything
we can do about it, because he was a paid employee (even though in one case
the ownership has changed hands). That's life and all you can do is leave
the past behind and knock their socks off with your latest work.... which
"they" don't have in their portfolios!

Best regards,

Dani Greer
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From owner-glass Fri May 16 12:23:25 1997
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X-Path: compuserve.com!GreerStudios
From: "Michael J. Greer" <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: All <GLASS@BUNGI.COM>
Subject: Reading materials/classes
Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 15:21:01 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May16.11211.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Eleanor writes, "am in the process of writing a book for teaching in the
classroom".

I say " GREAT", too.  I'm sure I'm not the only teacher pulling bits and
pieces from countless books in order to end up with a concise and
relatively modern handbook of stained glass, theoretical and practical. 
I've yet to find one that has everything I want - 

1.) a brief, concise history 

2.a)working with copper foil  2.b) working with lead - both with nice,
clear line drawings re: cutting, breaking, moving panels, etc. 

3.) Designing and pattern-making 

4.) Glass painting 

5.) Repair/restoration and Installation

 ... and all of the above using tools that one might actually buy today (!)
and illustrated with really GOOD examples of art glass, from traditional to
contemporary.  Now is that too much to ask??  I'm sure I've forgotten a few
chapters!       

Best regards,

Dani Greer
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From owner-glass Fri May 16 13:03:48 1997
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From: RThaxton@ix.netcom.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: What you can do with patterns
Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 13:01:22 -0700
Message-ID: <1997May16.6122.0>
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Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

> > I just bought a pattern book for coastal lighthouses and inside it says =
> > I can use the pattern for family and friends but that I can't make =
> > anything for resale by their patterns. Anyone else heard of this. Can =
> > they really enforce this? I've been talking to a consignment craft shop =
> > that will take anything I can do with lighthouses. Seems to me that once =
> > I change the pattern to suit me, it's mine.
> >
> > Linda Campbell

Now you got me thinking, hum.... If someone takes a picture of your
stained glass window at an art show, and then reproduces it, can you get
them for infringing on your pattern?  I did not want a window I had
entered in a show to be copied, but the majority of the people looking
were taking pictures of my work.  Was I suposed to say DON"T TAKE
PICTURES!!!  I am certain someone reproduced it.  I just hope not.
Just another point to ponder...
Melissa

***Hind sight is better to have before hand.
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From owner-glass Fri May 16 13:07:21 1997
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From: "Dave & Lynn Loda" <dloda@nwi.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Re: What you can do with patterns
Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 13:13:04 -0700
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Albert

You hit the nail on the head with this one.  It would be simple if the
publishers would go along with it. We know CKE is in this forum.  What do
they think about this?  Only problem I see is that it would too simple for
the attorneys to screw up. <G> 

Dave
Art Glass of Wenatchee

-----
. All of the confusion and questions on 
> this point could be easily resolved if the pattern publishers would 
> include a note on their publications to the effect that purchase of 
> the pattern (or pattern book) includes license to make as many as ten 
> (for example) pieces of finished work from each of the patterns as 
> gifts or for resale, but that permission must be requested for 
> production of more than that. Then give the address of the Royalties 
> and Permissions Department for making that request of the designer or 
> publisher to re-use their pattern(s) more than the automatic license 
> requires.
> 
> Seems to me that that would make everything crystal clear.
> 
> Albert
> ----

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From owner-glass Fri May 16 16:49:04 1997
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From: Richard LaVal <rlaval@sol.racsa.co.cr>
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Gatewayed mail message
Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 17:42:58 -0600 (CST)
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Dani;
        I would like a copy of the reading list too, if  you don't just post
it.  Meg
Richard and Meg LaVal
apdo. 24-5655
Monteverde
COSTA RICA
tel: 506 645 5052

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From owner-glass Fri May 16 16:49:39 1997
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From: Richard LaVal <rlaval@sol.racsa.co.cr>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: What you can do with patterns
Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 17:43:06 -0600 (CST)
Message-ID: <1.5.4.16.19970512041742.132f729e@sol.racsa.co.cr>
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Precedence: bulk

I have been watching these copyright  things fly by.....no  I wouldn't
expect any one to ask my permission, if I had first published it for this
purpose!!!  I thought long and hard about which pattern i would share with
the glass atlas, and have gotten it all copied (not mailed yet :() I don't
expect every one to write me if they decide they want to use it!!!  Thats
why I am putting it there!   IF publishers DO expect this, why aren't they
more specific, and include a pull out form letter, with all they require???
If someone took a picture of my stained glass window, and reprinted it as
postcards without my permission, I would get upset... (like your ex. of the
artwork used in a craft sale) but if you have SOLD the patterns for patterns??? 


<Albert said:  Think of it this way: you're a two-person studio ... you, the 
<fabricator of the work, and the designer, the creator of the pattern 
<for the work you're fabricating. They agree to produce twenty 
<patterns and bind them into a booklet for you to use to create 
<finished work. For that they agree to be paid $15 as long as you 
<build no more than (say) ten of each of the patterns. Pretty cheap. 
<But, says the designer, if you create more than ten of any of them, I 
<should get a percentage of the profit, since it was my patterns that 
<made it possible for you to sell those hundreds of reproductions.

<If you want to keep all of the profits, design your own patterns. 
<It's not really that hard.




Then why don't the publishers publish this paragraph from Albert in the
front of their book???? Excuse me, but from my Costa Rican perspective,
copyrighting and sueing etc... has  gone a little far in the USA!!!!  Meg

>
>I'm not too sure what all of the confusion is about.  It seems only fair to
>me.  If you designed a pattern, would you not want someone to ask before they
>duplicated it and sold it?
>
>Jenna Meredith
>Meredith Stained Glass
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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>
>
Richard and Meg LaVal
apdo. 24-5655
Monteverde
COSTA RICA
tel: 506 645 5052

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From owner-glass Fri May 16 17:09:32 1997
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From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@computer.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: What you can do with patterns
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@computer.net>
Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 20:16:18 +0000
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> Now you got me thinking, hum.... If someone takes a picture of your
> stained glass window at an art show, and then reproduces it, can you get
> them for infringing on your pattern?  I did not want a window I had
> entered in a show to be copied, but the majority of the people looking
> were taking pictures of my work.  Was I suposed to say DON"T TAKE
> PICTURES!!!  I am certain someone reproduced it.  

I see nothing wrong with posting a small sign asking that photographs 
not be taken. In fact, I've *seen such signs at craft shows. At 
least, having done that, you have every right to walk up to offenders 
and ask nicely (the first time) that they not photograph your work.

Albert

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From owner-glass Fri May 16 17:57:42 1997
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X-Path: pipeline.com!erainbow2
From: Mark Wallace <erainbow2@pipeline.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: What's happened?
Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 20:57:03 -0400 (EDT)
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 Did I do something wrong? I haven't received any bungi mail in over one
week. Help!

Mark

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From owner-glass Fri May 16 18:24:56 1997
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X-Path: ComCAT.COM!suzy
From: suzanne albright <suzy@ComCAT.COM>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: What's happened?
Date: Fri, 16 May 97 21:26:53 -0400
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>Subject:     What's happened?
>Sent:        5/16/97 8:57 PM
>Received:    5/16/97 9:01 PM
>From:        Mark Wallace, erainbow2@pipeline.com
>Reply-To:    glass@bungi.com
>To:          glass@bungi.com
>
> Did I do something wrong? I haven't received any bungi mail in over one
>week. Help!

I don't know Mark, it's been hot and heavy around here. The discussion 
has been mainly about copyrighting. Guess you'd better check with Glenna, 
or maybe your server?

How about letting us know if you got this message?



Suzanne Albright
<suzy@comcat.com>

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From owner-glass Fri May 16 18:47:29 1997
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X-Path: sagelink.net!pkelly
From: "Pat Kelly" <pkelly@sagelink.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Streamer Glass
Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 20:45:34 -0500
Message-ID: <199705170155.UAA00282@sage.sagelink.net>
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Precedence: bulk

Did some more research on the Bullseye B&W Streamer glass. It was purchased
from a company called Mid-America, Kansas City, Kansas, 1-800-255-6631. It
was Bullseye the orange and black logo was still attached. I copied some
numbers from the glass and assume they are the inventory numbers. There are
two different kinds:

1.)  black streamer with white squares (approx 1/4'') scattered throughout
resembling torn paper or confetti, Number is 235 (white marker number) or
560 (blue marker number).

2.)  black streamer with smaller black squares (approx 1/8") scattered
throughout resembling torn paper or confetti, number is 234 or 254
(couldn't read the handwriting very well).

This glass was sold to Apache Craft Shop, Ft Hood, TX, time frame unknown.
Additionally, they also received white streamer w/white confetti.

Hope this helps someone ... especially Richard. If nothing else another
source for SG supplies. 



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From owner-glass Fri May 16 22:38:10 1997
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X-Path: juno.com!dariece
From: dariece@juno.com (Dariece G. McClure)
To: glass@BUNGI.COM
Subject: Re: pattern melee
Date: Sat, 17 May 1997 01:35:35 EDT
Message-ID: <1997May17.53535.0>
References: <<1997May16.11218.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Dani,

Thanks for the inspiration! 

Dariece 

On Fri, 16 May 1997 15:21:08 -0400 "Michael J. Greer"
<GreerStudios@compuserve.com> writes:
>Albert writes, "If you want to keep all of the profits, design your 
>own
>patterns.  It's not really that hard.
>
>It's true - after you've built a few dozen pieces using a canned 
>pattern,
>you get enough sense of the medium to know what it can do... and can't 
>do. 
>Just pick something around you and draw it - the simpler, the better. 
>Then, look at the drawing as though you're seeing a pattern.  You'll 
>know
>what adjustments to make.  Everyone of you has the ability inside of 
>you to
>create your own designs.  Just try it - you'll amaze yourselves.  
>Start
>looking at things around you, start drawing (where all good art 
>begins) and
>soon you'll have more pattern ideas than you'll be able to build in a
>lifetime.               
>Best regards,
>
>Dani Greer
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
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From owner-glass Sat May 17 05:40:52 1997
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From: Charles <charles@fast.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: What you can do with patterns
Date: Sat, 17 May 1997 08:31:22 -0400
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Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

> I see nothing wrong with posting a small sign asking that photographs
> not be taken. 

We have hundreds of made up lamps, panels, candle holders and gift 
items in our store for inspiration to the customer.  All samples, 
we don't sell made up items or do custom work anymore.

I don't remember any customers taking photos with first asking 
permission.  The artist is also generally respected on this 
in outdoor shows IF they put up a sign like Albert suggested.

BTW we love it when customers like things enough to take pictures.

Mariannes' job is new product design and development.  Most of her 
time is spent drawing patterns that we hope are used to promote 
stained glass through sales of completed items.  

Charles Warner
Warner-Crivellaro
http://www.warner-criv.com
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From owner-glass Sat May 17 07:56:46 1997
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X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: What you can do with patterns
Date: Sat, 17 May 1997 10:52:48 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May17.65248.0>
References: <<1.5.4.16.19970512041742.132f729e@sol.racsa.co.cr>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

here's another question about copyrights. if you did sue some one (say
they were selling them on a home shopping channel of some kind), who
would get the money, if that's what you were sueing over. being that the
publisher would do the sueing, and it's mainly the artist who was'nt
asked in the first place. who gets the money and in what percentage?

---Mike Savad


-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141

New Pages Added:

 - New Instructional Guides Added!!!
 - The Creative Process
 - How to Find Patterns for Suncatchers
 - Picking Out Glass in the Store

 - Plus New Photos
 - 5 New Pictures in the 3-D Catagory
 - 2 New Pictures in the Panel Catagory
 - Updated Shots of The Heart of Atlantis, and Japanese Garden

 - But That's Not All!!!
 - My Links Page is UP!
 - And Awards Page Too
----
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From owner-glass Sat May 17 08:04:01 1997
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X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: What you can do with patterns
Date: Sat, 17 May 1997 11:00:47 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May17.7047.0>
References: <<1997May17.43122.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Charles wrote:
> 
> > I see nothing wrong with posting a small sign asking that photographs
> > not be taken.
> 
> We have hundreds of made up lamps, panels, candle holders and gift
> items in our store for inspiration to the customer.  All samples,
> we don't sell made up items or do custom work anymore.
> 
> I don't remember any customers taking photos with first asking
> permission.  The artist is also generally respected on this
> in outdoor shows IF they put up a sign like Albert suggested.
> 
> BTW we love it when customers like things enough to take pictures.
> 
> Mariannes' job is new product design and development.  Most of her
> time is spent drawing patterns that we hope are used to promote
> stained glass through sales of completed items.
> 
> Charles Warner
> Warner-Crivellaro
> http://www.warner-criv.com
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

i personally always try to get pictures of other peoples work. i never
really plan to make any of them, i only use them for refrence or
inspiration. generally i take a shot from the distance, but if i think
the work is good enough, i'll generally ask first. i usually tell them
it's just for refrence, which it is. the only time's i won't ask is if
they stepped away from the booth. i'll also ask a store owner if i could
take pictures of any stained glass stuff, if there is any there.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141

New Pages Added:

 - New Instructional Guides Added!!!
 - The Creative Process
 - How to Find Patterns for Suncatchers
 - Picking Out Glass in the Store

 - Plus New Photos
 - 5 New Pictures in the 3-D Catagory
 - 2 New Pictures in the Panel Catagory
 - Updated Shots of The Heart of Atlantis, and Japanese Garden

 - But That's Not All!!!
 - My Links Page is UP!
 - And Awards Page Too
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From owner-glass Sat May 17 09:23:13 1997
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From: "Myrddn" <exotic@mail.lobo.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Hi I'm back
Summary: Authenticated sender is <exotic@mail.lobo.net>
Date: Sat, 17 May 1997 10:29:18 +0000
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Hi, I am back. Was very ill for a couple of week, got back to the 
computer and found myself with over 300 messages to read through,  So 
if my replies appear to be coming out of nowhere, its because it am 
doing catch  up

Blessed Be

Myrddn
Bring your heart when you come, and they will come!

Nothing happens by chance. All is serendipity!


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From owner-glass Sat May 17 09:24:00 1997
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From: "Myrddn" <exotic@mail.lobo.net>
To: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@computer.net>,
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Incorporating glass with pottery
Summary: Authenticated sender is <exotic@mail.lobo.net>
Date: Sat, 17 May 1997 10:30:28 +0000
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> If you used a bead of
> dark-colored sealant to put them into a dark-colored piece of
> pottery, they'd likely be watertight, but not useable for food, as
> you rightly guess. I'll confess, though, that the idea of using
> silicone caulk or adhesive to join glass and ceramic at that stage
> is repugnant to me. <g>


Actually Albert, using silicon is perfectly safe for human use, once 
it has thoroughly dried.  I have an old mexican water crock, probably 
50 years old.  Since they used lead in their glazes and it was 
cracked inside, is put a thin layer of silicon caulking over the 
entire inner surface, let it dry for a week, washed it and have been 
unsing it safely for over ten years.  It saved a beautiful piece of 
crockware.

Certainly you could use that techique for goblets, vases, and sho 
pieces like a drum base or the like. I think I'll talk to my potter 
friend.
Blessed Be

Myrddn
Bring your heart when you come, and they will come!

Nothing happens by chance. All is serendipity!


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From owner-glass Sat May 17 13:27:39 1997
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X-Path: kwic.com!mnvve3
From: Garry McKenna <mnvve3@kwic.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Required Reading
Date: Sat, 17 May 1997 16:25:51 -0400
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Dani - 

In response to your request for a list of books for required reading.  I
have an excellent book called How To Work In Stained Glass, second edition.
by Anita & Seymour Isenberg and published by the Chilton Book Company,
Radnor, Pennsylvania. It has absolutely everything you ever wanted to know
about Stained Glass, all stated clearly and concisely and with many pictures
and illustrations. A highly recommended book!!

Linda .

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From owner-glass Sat May 17 13:30:45 1997
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From: Garry McKenna <mnvve3@kwic.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Required Reading
Date: Sat, 17 May 1997 16:29:15 -0400
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Dani - 

In response to your request for a list of books for required reading.  I
have an excellent book called How To Work In Stained Glass, second edition.
by Anita & Seymour Isenberg and published by the Chilton Book Company,
Radnor, Pennsylvania. It has absolutely everything you ever wanted to know
about Stained Glass, all stated clearly and concisely and with many pictures
and illustrations. A highly recommended book!!

Linda .

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From owner-glass Sat May 17 16:41:04 1997
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From: leestat7 <leestat7@home.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Re: Hi I'm back
Date: Sat, 17 May 1997 19:36:46 -0400
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Hi Myrddn,
Glad you are back, you have my sympathy, I suffer from serious recurring
back problems from a fall.  Just thankful I can walk again.  Hope you
are well on the mend, and have a great summer.

Lee Boe
Rain-Boe's Creations

Myrddn wrote:
> 
> Hi, I am back. Was very ill for a couple of week, got back to the
> computer and found myself with over 300 messages to read through,  So
> if my replies appear to be coming out of nowhere, its because it am
> doing catch  up
----
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From owner-glass Sat May 17 16:46:53 1997
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X-Path: mail.nildram.co.uk!glass
From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Request for photos!!From Elisabeth!!!
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@mail.nildram.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 17 May 1997 23:52:20 +0000
Message-ID: <199705172346.AAA11465@linux.nildram.co.uk>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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Hi PJ,
Thanks very much for your e-mail and suggestions - in the face of you 
being frantically busy with the move - very much appreciated. 
The Salvation Army guy; I sent you a copy of the reply I sent to him. 
Hope that is OK. Let me know if you hear anything more from him....
In the process, I of course had a closer look at your web-site 
myself. Quite impressive. You certainly seem to have sorted out the 
photography side of things (which is what I have struggled with, 
especially since I have to be my own photographer...)

There was another question you asked; in UK, what's the difference 
between a "solicitor" and a "barrister".? In essence, the solicitor 
does all the foot-work and the barrister does all the "glamour" work, 
and a barrister costs a heck of a great deal more. You, as a private 
individual, cannot contact a barrister directly, it has to be done through a 
solicitor, who first has to spend time, effort (& money) ensuring 
that your case is worthy of a barrister's attention
So in the long run, a barrister is only as good as the information he 
is fed with from the solicitor, who -in turn - is only as good as the 
information and guidance that YOU feed him/her with.........
It all boils down to you, in the end. Which means, that you have to 
do more legal foot-work  yourself than any of them put together, in 
order for your case to be presented even 50% in the way you want it 
to the Court and Jury......
A cynical definition, perhaps. But quite close to the truth, 
nevertheless.I'm sure there were more things I wanted to talk to you 
about, but my head is totally empty at the moment....
Talk to you soon again.
Take care.
Elisabeth  'n Toby


you wrote
No you didn't get zapped here....

Sorry I didn't respond to your request...I might have some photos of work
that just might work for this gentlemen.  If you take a look at our site you
might see something there or I have a zillion others.

The url is http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/artglass.

How and where do the photos need to be sent?  I apologize again for missing
the request. We are moving into a new studio and well.....I must admit I did
overlook it.

Just let me know.
my best,
pj


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----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
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From owner-glass Sat May 17 18:18:38 1997
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From: "Michael J. Greer" <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: All <GLASS@BUNGI.COM>
Subject: Reading Materials
Date: Sat, 17 May 1997 21:17:32 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May17.171732.0>
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Linda- 

I'm familiar with the Isenberg books and already have them on the reading
list.  Overall, they are pretty concise, but just between you, me, and 300
other Bungi members, I hate the photos. Many (if not most) of the examples
of stained glass are just plain bad from an artistic stand-point.       

Best regards,

Dani Greer
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From owner-glass Sun May 18 03:23:16 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!Yegnim
From: Yegnim@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Required Reading
Date: Sun, 18 May 1997 06:21:55 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <1997May18.22155.0>
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Ditto to what Linda said re: Anita and Seymour Isenberg's book,"How To Work
In Stained Glass", second edition.  It is like no other book I have ever
found in that it is sooo comprehensive and is like a text book as opposed to
those "light reading how-to books" with patterns included.
Eleanor  (yegnim@aol.com)
P.S.  For reading about techniques used before 1940, "Stained Glass Craft" by
J.A.F. Divine G. Blachford is very informative.  Dover Publications
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From owner-glass Sun May 18 08:14:03 1997
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X-Path: prodigy.com!JXGS20A
From: JXGS20A@prodigy.com (MR JOHN H MILNE)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Large Panel Reinforcement
Date: Sun, 18 May 1997 11:04:26, -0500
Message-ID: <199705181504.LAA26682@mime4.prodigy.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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I am interested in any info on reinforcing, framing, and installing 
large stained glass panels for operating doors and windows as well as 
stationary windows and skylights.
  Thanks, Peter Gehring
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From owner-glass Sun May 18 12:54:52 1997
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From: robert crane <robertcrane@thezone.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: upcomming events in Vermont
Date: Sun, 18 May 1997 17:34:09 -0230
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Hi:
I am travelling in Vermont the first week in July and was wondering if 
all you bungi people knew of any interesting shows etc that I could 
visit on my trek. Will be going from the north west to the south east 
and back again. A workshop here or there would be nice. Thanks!
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From owner-glass Sun May 18 17:05:41 1997
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From: ETCHNGLASS@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: upcomming events in Vermont
Date: Sun, 18 May 1997 20:04:55 -0400 (EDT)
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ok Im here ... wont be for long but will talk to you from work if I aint here

RMM
YR
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From owner-glass Sun May 18 18:34:23 1997
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From: "Wallace, Paul" <glass@nobleco.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: What you can do with patterns
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Date: Sun, 18 May 1997 21:33:20 +0000
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Sounds very reasonable.  We were asked by a consignment shop at a 
local university to do suncatchers of a paw print (the school logo) 
as the previous artist had quit.  Knowing that the school watched for 
knockoffs very closley we wrote to request permission to manufacture 
these items. We expected to make less than 50 per year.  Because 
it was a simple design about 6 pcs. and the store told us they wanted 
something they could retail for about $10 or less, we decided to sell 
them in the $6 to $7 price range.  When the man called from the 
school's trademark licencing agent, we were informed that the minimum 
they required was a $500 per year payment and 15% of retail sales.   
needless to say we didn't  produce them!

Paul
> 
> >I'm curious ;), how much would be the royalty fee (in percentage) that you
> >would use? I've always wondered just how to do this. Thanks in advance.
> 
> Since this was a response to something I posted, I'll respond. But keep in
> mind I'm only speaking for SGN Publishing. Each publisher probably has a
> different way of figuring royalty payments.
> 
> As I mentioned previously, if you're selling a few projects from this book
> and a few from that book at craft fairs or consignment shops, that's fine
> with us. We're glad that you like our patterns and have found places to sell
> them.
> 
> However, if you're selling one particular project over and over, we assume
> that a *small* part of the reason for this is because it was made from an
> attractive design. Therefore, we expect to be able to compensate the designer
> by receiving a *small* royalty fee.
> 
> We don't expect a royalty until someone has sold 10 or more projects made
> from the same pattern. And what's the royalty percentage? Well, that can vary
> a little depending on the situation. For example, you may be selling
> wholesale and have to keep your selling price as low as possible so the
> retailer you sell to can mark it up and make money, too. In this case, the
> royalty would probably be lower than if you were selling to the consumer at
> full "retail." Due to these (and other) variables, there isn't a single flat
> percentage that we use. (This is why we ask you to contact us!) But,
> regardless of the situation, the royalty never exceeds 10% of your selling
> price.
> 
> Hope this helps,
> 
> Scott
> SGN Publishing
> ----
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> 
> 
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From owner-glass Sun May 18 18:53:43 1997
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X-Path: ComCAT.COM!suzy
From: suzanne albright <suzy@ComCAT.COM>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: Large Panel Reinforcement
Date: Sun, 18 May 97 21:54:55 -0400
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Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk



>I am interested in any info on reinforcing, framing, and installing 
>large stained glass panels for operating doors and windows as well as 
>stationary windows and skylights.
>  Thanks, Peter Gehring

Peter, there is a standing column in "Stained Glass News" which you can 
get only at retail stores. The column is devoted to making and 
reinforcing large panels and has a lot of good info. I can't remember the 
name of it but the columnist keeps saying, "Design it Right and Build it 
Strong!" It's a small newspaper but full of great tips.





Suzanne Albright
<suzy@comcat.com>

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From owner-glass Sun May 18 19:03:01 1997
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X-Path: juno.com!studioone1
From: studioone1@juno.com (Dee l Plott)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: cleaning
Date: Sun, 18 May 1997 21:58:10 EDT
Message-ID: <1997May19.15810.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Help, I'm new on bungi.com so any help would be appreciated.   I have
been doing glass for many years and never had any major problems with
oxidizing on the solder lines.  Recently, however, after thorough
cleaning the solder is getting cloudy and dirty after only a few days.  
Any thoughts on what is happening and how to solve this problem?  The
solder is new and so are the chemicals, I tried those two things right
off......thanks   dee    studioone1@Juno.com
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From owner-glass Sun May 18 19:08:27 1997
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From: studioone1@juno.com (Dee l Plott)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: wholesaling
Date: Sun, 18 May 1997 22:04:37 EDT
Message-ID: <1997May19.2437.0>
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Hi,

Has anyone done much wholesaling with their glass?   Most of the people
I've spoken to say they have been told they need to give a 50% discount
to the shops that order.   My prices are pretty decent and not overly
high as it is, there is no way I could discount that much.   I could use
some imput on this because if this is the going rate then I can't see why
wholesaling would be a good deal for anyone.

dee
studioone1@Juno.com
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From owner-glass Sun May 18 19:27:50 1997
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From: Sean Lally <slally@crl.com>
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Subject: Re: Reading Materials
Date: Sun, 18 May 97 19:26:19 -0700
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>Many (if not most) of the examples
>of stained glass are just plain bad from an artistic stand-point. 

Howdy, first post here; I've been lurking for a little while...

I just wanted to second your opinion on the examples in that book.  It 
was the first book I ever picked up on the subject and those pictures 
almost discouraged me from pursuing the hobby.  I thought if that's the 
best hobbyists can do then I don't know if I even want to give it a try.  
I wonder if the pieces were just a product of their time?  That was my 
rationalization anyhow and I forged on.

Sean
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From owner-glass Sun May 18 20:09:34 1997
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From: "Paula Nelson" <glasdawg@ngai.com>
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Subject: Re: What you can do with patterns
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Organization: vom Uitland Rottz of the Glass Dog Studio
Precedence: bulk

Scott wrote:

> regardless of the situation, the royalty never exceeds 10% of your selling
> price.

Scott, thank you for the answer; as I said I've always been curious. 
I find this thread extremely interesting and informative, and the 
ramifications of using non-original art is coming home 'real quick'  
(boy, am I glad my parents graced me with the ability to do my own!)

I wondered specifically because I do design my own work and always 
wondered what I could do if I saw my designs being reproduced (I do 
dog and dog sport related work)...

Thanks again. 
Paula
glasdawg@ngai.com

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
The Glass Dog Studio
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From owner-glass Sun May 18 20:59:58 1997
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X-Path: ComCAT.COM!suzy
From: suzanne albright <suzy@ComCAT.COM>
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Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: cleaning
Date: Mon, 19 May 97 00:01:47 -0400
Message-ID: <199705190359.XAA26154@uz.comcat.com>
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>I have
>been doing glass for many years and never had any major problems with
>oxidizing on the solder lines.  Recently, however, after thorough
>cleaning the solder is getting cloudy and dirty after only a few days.  
>Any thoughts on what is happening and how to solve this problem?  The
>solder is new and so are the chemicals, I tried those two things right
>off......thanks   dee    studioone1@Juno.com

Dee, yes I had that same problem two years ago in the summer when we had 
a draught. We have well water and somebody suggested there were too many 
minerals in the water. I bought distilled water to clean with and it 
solved the problem. Used the distilled water for about a year, then 
gingerly went back to my own well water. Haven't had a problem since, at 
least not a really serious one like you're describing. To clean it up on 
the ones already done, I scrubbed with 000 steel wool, then covered with 
clear fingernail polish. Good luck!



Suzanne Albright
<suzy@comcat.com>

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From owner-glass Mon May 19 03:09:56 1997
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From: Yegnim@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: wholesaling
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 06:09:15 -0400 (EDT)
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From:  Eleanor  (yegnim@aol.com)

Hi dee,
I haven't really done consignment sales but have inquired about it.  I have
been informed of the average 20% commission charge, though told that it can
go as high as 50%.  You could try some other shops to find a better % or you
could just request a fair price for your work, add on the 50% and see if they
sell.
Recently at a wholesale show I was amazed at the high cost of completed
wholesale stained glass items.  I realized at the time that my prices were
really wholesale (to friends and family) as opposed to retail.  Perhaps your
prices are too low as mine were.
Good Luck!
Eleanor
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From owner-glass Mon May 19 04:14:20 1997
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From: Phil Speedwell <mdcglas@hawk.rmplc.co.uk>
To: "Bugi" <glass@bungi.com>
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Subject: My First Site
Date: Mon, 19 May 97 12:14:25 +0100
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Hi all,

I'm in the process of putting together my web site thought I would ask 
you fellow bunginians for comments before I go any further.

For those of you with long memories the round panel with the gluechip 
border is the one I asked for help on when I was trying to keep it round 
while I was leading it.

the URL is  http://www.essglasgow.org.uk/ssghome/ssghome.html
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From owner-glass Mon May 19 04:44:37 1997
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From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@computer.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: wholesaling
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@computer.net>
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 07:51:17 +0000
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> Has anyone done much wholesaling with their glass?   Most of the people
> I've spoken to say they have been told they need to give a 50% discount
> to the shops that order.   

Just raise your prices, Dee. The expectation when you sell at 
wholesale is that you'll sell more ... so they have to order more. 
That's the quid pro quo (which translates to "you scratch my back, 
I'll scratch yours," roughly).

If you have a 100-piece minimum, for example, you can introduce 
certain efficiencies (doing all the cutting at once, buying larger 
quantities of supplies, thus reducing your costs, etc.), that make it 
possible. A wholesale buyer takes certain risks (your work might not 
sell quickly enough to provide the cash flow necessary to keep their 
doors open, for example; their overhead must be covered just as yours 
must be; they have to insure your work and that of others, the 
expense of which comes right out of whatever your work sells for; if 
they have employees, those employees have to be paid, insured, taxed, 
FICA paid, etc.), so there must be enough room for them to be able to 
do all of that (and more) and still realize a profit.

Fifty percent is low, actually. In my experience, sixty percent is 
more common. If you can't give a discount like that, my personal 
reaction is that you are under-valuing the worth of your work. No 
offense; that's a common thing, too. Perhaps you should re-assess 
what your costs actually are, what your time is worth, how much each 
finished work costs you. Be realistic and be brave. "The laborer is 
worth his hire," says the Old Testament (or was it the New?). That 
was true then and it's true now.

When you've figured out your actual cost to produce each 
item in your line, multiply that cost times five: that's your retail 
price.

Retail price less 60%, then, is 40% of retail to you and you've
doubled your actual cost at that level. If the item has cost you $5 
to produce, you receive $10. Half of that is your own money being 
returned to you; it's not profit. The other half -- $5 -- is your 
gross profit. Out of that you have to pay your rent, utilities, 
salary, taxes, insurance, etc., and put whatever's left (the actual 
net profit on your time and effort) into the bank or back into the 
business. Even if you're working out of your house, you have to think 
of pricing this way, otherwise you'll end up selling work for less 
than it actually cost you to make (which seems to be what you're 
indicating when you say you couldn't afford to give a fifty percent 
discount).

Of course, if you sell quite a bit of your work at your new retail 
level, you'll be getting a healthy return on your investment in time 
and money. Then you will be able to afford a second home in Aspen and 
you can invite the entire bungi crowd up for the weekend. <g>

My 2c worth,

Albert
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From owner-glass Mon May 19 04:45:12 1997
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From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@computer.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: What you can do with patterns
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@computer.net>
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 07:51:17 +0000
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> them in the $6 to $7 price range.  When the man called from the 
> school's trademark licencing agent, we were informed that the minimum 
> they required was a $500 per year payment and 15% of retail sales.   
> needless to say we didn't  produce them!

You should have asked how many they would expect to buy themselves. 
Five hundred dollars a year and fifteen percent wouldn't be bad if 
you were cranking a thousand of them a week. <s>

Albert
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From owner-glass Mon May 19 05:34:42 1997
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Subject:      Re: wholesaling
Date:         Mon, 19 May 97 08:23:34 EDT
Message-ID:   <970519.083404.EDT.HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu>
References: <<1997May19.2437.0>>
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I am often amazed at the prices on stained glass in stores in tourist
areas.  Sometimes three times what I could get for a piece at a craft
fair ten miles away.  (Areas such as Mystic, CT or craft stores in
Burlington VT)  Speaking of VT, I don't know what craft shows can be
found, but be sure you get a look across lake Champlain at the
Adirondacks at sunset.  Drive up Mt. Mansfield if you have a car that
can handle steep hills.  Check out Quechee Gorge (although it's become
a bit of a tourist trap).  There's lots of inspiration to be found.
If you are going through Massachusetts, take a couple of hours to
check out the stores in Northampton (there were some wonderful glass
blown pieces last time I was there).
Back to tourist prices....always much higher than resident prices, but I
doubt if the crafter really makes much more.  Once the store does its
markup....

--
Dorothy Kalahan, Interlibrary Loan  (860) 679-2940  FAX (860) 679-4046
UCONN Health Center Library, POB 4003, Farmington CT 06034-4003
HCLADM02@UConnVM.uconn.edu
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From owner-glass Mon May 19 06:00:33 1997
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X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: cleaning
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 08:56:41 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May19.45641.0>
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Dee l Plott wrote:
> 
> Help, I'm new on bungi.com so any help would be appreciated.   I have
> been doing glass for many years and never had any major problems with
> oxidizing on the solder lines.  Recently, however, after thorough
> cleaning the solder is getting cloudy and dirty after only a few days.
> Any thoughts on what is happening and how to solve this problem?  The
> solder is new and so are the chemicals, I tried those two things right
> off......thanks   dee    studioone1@Juno.com
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


well it could be a change in water maybe more minerals, so the soap and
flux may not be washing off completly. i use joy and baking soda to
clean my stuff off with. the final step involves glass wax, which works
fine for me. although you mentioned the solder and flux, is the flux a
different brand then other types you used? not sure if i can think of
anything else...

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141

New Pages Added:

 - New Instructional Guides Added!!!
 - The Creative Process
 - How to Find Patterns for Suncatchers
 - Picking Out Glass in the Store

 - Plus New Photos
 - 5 New Pictures in the 3-D Catagory
 - 2 New Pictures in the Panel Catagory
 - Updated Shots of The Heart of Atlantis, and Japanese Garden

 - But That's Not All!!!
 - My Links Page is UP!
 - And Awards Page Too
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From owner-glass Mon May 19 06:02:39 1997
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: wholesaling
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 08:59:07 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May19.4597.0>
References: <<1997May19.2437.0>>
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Precedence: bulk

Dee l Plott wrote:
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Has anyone done much wholesaling with their glass?   Most of the people
> I've spoken to say they have been told they need to give a 50% discount
> to the shops that order.   My prices are pretty decent and not overly
> high as it is, there is no way I could discount that much.   I could use
> some imput on this because if this is the going rate then I can't see why
> wholesaling would be a good deal for anyone.
> 
> dee
> studioone1@Juno.com
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


personally i never believed in wholesaleing art. it's pretty much
letting everyone know that you will accept a 50% discount. you could
charge your full price, what they do then is double your price that you
were asking. which will probably make it not sell, but it depends on the
area your in.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141

New Pages Added:

 - New Instructional Guides Added!!!
 - The Creative Process
 - How to Find Patterns for Suncatchers
 - Picking Out Glass in the Store

 - Plus New Photos
 - 5 New Pictures in the 3-D Catagory
 - 2 New Pictures in the Panel Catagory
 - Updated Shots of The Heart of Atlantis, and Japanese Garden

 - But That's Not All!!!
 - My Links Page is UP!
 - And Awards Page Too
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From owner-glass Mon May 19 07:17:49 1997
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X-Path: worldnet.att.net!summit-stained-glass
From: Mike  Peck <summit-stained-glass@worldnet.att.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Help: Anyone have B&W streamer glass??
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 14:16:59 +0000
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Pat,

I have one sheet of black streamer glass, no white confetti, and it's
Bullseye.  I don't recall seeing anything with white confetti, are you sure
it's catalogue glass?  (vs "Saturday Glass").  The number on mine is 4100F.
I only ask because I know that Mid America sold a lot of Bullseye Saturday
Glass, Spectrum T glass, Uroboros "uncat" glass, etc.  I've had some
difficulty getting matched glass from them in the past.

Call me (toll free) at 1-888-270-0037 if you want more info.

Mike Peck
Summit Stained Glass



>From: "Pat Kelly" <pkelly@sagelink.net>
>To: <glass@bungi.com>
>Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
>Subject: Re: Help: Anyone have B&W streamer glass??
>X-Path: sagelink.net!pkelly
>Date: Fri, 16 May 97 04:19:39 +0000
>
>Richard asked for B&W streamer glass. I think I've found some. I'll attempt
>to describe it to make sure it is what he wants. It is Bullseye Glass,
>black thread like streamers running through a clear background,
>additionally it contains a white confetti like substance about 1/2"
>squares. This glass was purchased wholesale by a local dealer from
>Mid-America Stained Glass. Currently thats all I know. If anyone needs more
>information; i.e., phone number, address of wholesaler, etc. Just post or
>e-mail me. E-mail is pkelly@sagelink.net.
>
>As a last resort I'll purchase it and make arrangements with Richard for
>shipping.
>
>Roses and Rainbows to all
>
>Pat Kelly
>
>
>
>----------
>> From: Richard Stoker <rstoker@nortel.ca>
>> To: glass@bungi.com
>> Subject: Help: Anyone have B&W streamer glass??
>> Date: Wednesday, May 14, 1997 8:00 AM
>> 
>> I need a largish piece of B&W streamer (no fractures) on clear made by 
>> Bullseye.  I made a piece several years ago using this glass and now the 
>> client wants a companion piece....I require approx 4 sq ft.  and it is no
>
>> longer in production according to all my usual sources of supply.  Does 
>> anyone happen to have a piece out there they would be willing to part 
>> with?  
>> 
>> Regards,
>> Richard Stoker
>> Turtle Bay Studios
>> ----
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>----
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>

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From owner-glass Mon May 19 07:41:30 1997
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X-Path: gjr
From: gjr@bungi.com (Glenna Rand)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: My First Site
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 07:40:08 PDT
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[In the message entitled "My First Site" on May 19, 12:14, Phil Speedwell writes:]

> I'm in the process of putting together my web site thought I would ask 
> you fellow bunginians for comments before I go any further.
> 
> For those of you with long memories the round panel with the gluechip 
> border is the one I asked for help on when I was trying to keep it round 
> while I was leading it.

Very nice.  I especially liked the round panel with the blue flowers.
Was the line vertical panel done in lead or copper foil?



-- 
Glenna Rand
gjr@bungi.com
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From owner-glass Mon May 19 07:56:30 1997
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From: MARGEM@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: What you can do with patterns
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 10:55:55 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <1997May19.65555.0>
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CKE did put in their two-cents worth all last week. Check out the posts
signed by MargeM.
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From owner-glass Mon May 19 08:00:14 1997
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X-Path: worldnet.att.net!summit-stained-glass
From: Mike  Peck <summit-stained-glass@worldnet.att.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: tiffany restoration (long)
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 14:59:30 +0000
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> I'm sorry Albert but I have never been able to see a clear advantage to
>taking windows off site, a relead being the major exception.   
>
>Why?
>
>The number of times the windows have to be handled for one
>
>--- taken down
>--- more likely to be removed from sash (high potential for additional damage)
>--- crated
>--- shipped by? common carrier ...yikes!  studio vechicle? what if.. god
>forbid a         roll-over on an icey road?
>--- uncrated at studio by who? *Herman, ace restorer from Germany* I'm sure
>he'll drop       everything and run to the loading dock or *klutz jr. the
>bookkeeper's kid who started     last week? 
>--- then reverse the process and do it again
>
>Back to the site... how much additional time will be required? a week at
>minimum, a month what do you do with the window openings in the mean time?
>cut and fit plywood? lot of additional hours and expense. Staple up plastic?
>nice.
>
>On site..
>--- priliminary leg work completed repair glass matched and on site
>--- painted work done and on site.
>--- fully equipped self-contained crew shows up
>--- work station set up in building
>--- window taken down, glass replaced, bulges taken out, lead joints
>resoldered etc. etc.
>--- window reinstalled
>
>How can it get any better then that? There are no proceedures that can be
>done any better in the studio. There are a lot of roadies out there that
>know their stuff
>
>I'm sorry Albert but this notion that all restoration work has to be done in
>the studio to me is basically a high end marketing gimmick, and a big money
>maker, perpatrated by the so called conservators. Reminds me of that old TV
>commercial where the guy is driving around looking to get a new muffler and
>he stops at this one place and a gent comes out wearing a white lab coat
>holding a clipboard and says with a european accent "Yes we can do it but it
>will take three weeks and you have to leave the car!"
>
>Obviously I've slanted the scenarios in my favor ;-)  but I do have strong
>feeling about this issue. If in-studio restoration becomes the norm a lot of
>windows will be neglected because institutions will be scared off by the costs.
>
>My .20 worth :-)
>
>Len
> 


Len,

My added $0.02 ......... I couldn't agree more that many more repairs and
restorations can be done on-site than crating them off to some studio.  We
always try to repair on site, except as you point out, in the case of a
major re-lead.  And, the main reason is simply to minimize potential for
further damage to the windows. 

And, what's the main reward .......... all that money you're making, NO!
It's the lights in the eyes of the congregation as they parade past your
work space to view your progress.  You mentioned a "high end marketing
gimmick" in hauling windows off to the studio .... I think the inadvertent
advertising your doing by working in front of a couple hundred people is
worth mentioning!  I know we capture many subsequent jobs by simply
encouraging people to watch us work and by taking time to answer questions.
When you factor in this kind of potential advertising, you can afford to be
even more competitive in your initial bid.

Repair on-site vs repair in the studio .......  I think it boils down to two
things ....... what will produce the highest quality in the shortest period
of time (and that includes any further repairs needed because you broke
something), and what is in the best interests of the customer.

Mike Peck
Summit Stained Glass

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From owner-glass Mon May 19 08:39:18 1997
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X-Path: slonet.org!edupjohn
From: "Peggy W. Johnsen" <edupjohn@slonet.org>
To: Dee l Plott <studioone1@juno.com>
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: wholesaling
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 08:33:26 -0700 (PDT)
Message-ID: <1997May19.13326.0>
References: <<1997May19.2437.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi Dee:

I started  out paying the shop owner a percentage of consignment sales.
We got along much better when I asked my price and told them they could
sell my work at whatever they wanted.  Now, when they sell it, they write
me a check and I never even know what they received for it.  
Good Luck,
Peggy

On Sun, 18 May 1997, Dee l Plott wrote:

> Hi,
> 
> Has anyone done much wholesaling with their glass?   Most of the people
> I've spoken to say they have been told they need to give a 50% discount
> to the shops that order.   My prices are pretty decent and not overly
> high as it is, there is no way I could discount that much.   I could use
> some imput on this because if this is the going rate then I can't see why
> wholesaling would be a good deal for anyone.
> 
> dee
> studioone1@Juno.com
> ----
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> 

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From owner-glass Mon May 19 09:42:43 1997
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X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: "INTERNET:glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: cleaning
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 12:36:29 -0400
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Message text written by INTERNET:glass@bungi.com
>Recently, however, after thorough
cleaning the solder is getting cloudy and dirty after only a few days.  
Any thoughts on what is happening and how to solve this problem?  The
solder is new and so are the chemicals, I tried those two things right
off......thanks   dee    studioone1@Juno.com<

Do you immediately apply a sealant/polisher such as Kem-O-Pro to your
finished project after final cleaning?  I find that layer of Kem-O-Pro
polish really helps keep the solder stable.
...Christie
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From owner-glass Mon May 19 11:17:13 1997
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X-Path: compuserve.com!GreerStudios
From: "Michael J. Greer" <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: All <GLASS@BUNGI.COM>
Subject: Wholesaling
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 14:15:15 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May19.101515.0>
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Albert -
Re:  your 2c worth on the subject of wholesale prices - your advice is
worth at least 10c - you're underpricing yourself.

Best regards,

Dani Greer
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From owner-glass Mon May 19 11:25:56 1997
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X-Path: compuserve.com!GreerStudios
From: "Michael J. Greer" <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: All <GLASS@BUNGI.COM>
Subject: Reading Materials
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 14:15:01 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May19.10151.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Sean-

Re: the Isenberg stained glass books, you might be right about them being a
"product of the times"!  Anyone who thinks the 16th century was bad ought
to take a look at the sixties.  

I did some further searching over the weekend at bookstores and didn't find
very much except pattern books. Several of the stores, though, had very
recent publications by Lynnette Wrigley and Marc Gerstein that IMNSHO were
very good especially for beginners and especially dealing with copper foil.
 What impressed me most was the quality of the photography and of the
designs -- even the suncatchers were quite nice.( Elisabeth, I think these
folks are working in the UK - have you heard of them?)  These are the types
of books that will inspire a newcomer, not turn them off.  I'll include
them on the reading list which I'll be glad to post in a week or so since
quite a few of you have requested copies.  It's still a pretty sparse list,
but I haven't given up the search.  The trouble is, I keep finding good art
history books as I search, and it's starting to hurt my pocketbook!

Best regards,

Dani Greer
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From owner-glass Mon May 19 13:10:35 1997
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X-Path: compuserve.com!GreerStudios
From: "Michael J. Greer" <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: "MIME:glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Large Panel Reinforcement
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 16:09:26 -0400
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RE:  large panel reinforcement, Peter, here are two good reference books =
if
you can find them somewhere - unfortunately, I think they are both out of=

print:

"The Technique of Stained Glass" by Patrick Reyntiens

"Making Stained Glass: A Handbook for the Amateur and Professional" by
Robert & Gertrude Metcalf  =


Perhaps your library has them, or can transfer them in from another
library.  You'll end up with a good written description as well as some
good drawings to illustrate the procedures.  Just a written description
could get rather confusing!

Best regards,

Dani Greer

Greer Gallery & Studios
603 W. Colorado Ave.
Colorado Springs, CO  80905

Website   http://eme.usa.net/greerstudios/


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From owner-glass Mon May 19 14:32:20 1997
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X-Path: computer.net!alewis
From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@computer.net>
To: glass@BUNGI.COM
Subject: Re: Wholesaling
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@computer.net>
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 17:38:42 +0000
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> Re:  your 2c worth on the subject of wholesale prices - your advice is
> worth at least 10c - you're underpricing yourself.

You mean I gotta practice what I preach, Dani? <s>

Albert
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From owner-glass Mon May 19 15:11:30 1997
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X-Path: mail.bcpl.lib.md.us!spanthony
From: "last name: Anthony" <spanthony@mail.bcpl.lib.md.us>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=koi8-r
Subject: Re: Large Panel Reinforcement
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 18:10:36 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May19.141036.0>
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Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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Michael J. Greer wrote:
> 
> RE:  large panel reinforcement, Peter, here are two good reference books =
> if
> you can find them somewhere - unfortunately, I think they are both out of=
> 
> print:
> 
> "The Technique of Stained Glass" by Patrick Reyntiens
> 
> "Making Stained Glass: A Handbook for the Amateur and Professional" by
> Robert & Gertrude Metcalf  =
> <snip>
> 
> Best regards,
> 
> Dani Greer>

Group, I was able to find a used copy of Reyntiens book at Powell's
http://www.powells.com/cgi-bin/mk-search.pl

I think they have another, but I'm not sure. I haven't checked for the
Metcalf book. Another good online bookstore is Amazon
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/subst/index2.html/2058-4811418-101054

--SB
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From owner-glass Mon May 19 16:13:02 1997
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X-Path: compuserve.com!GreerStudios
From: "Michael J. Greer" <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: All <GLASS@BUNGI.COM>
Subject: Reading Materials
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 19:11:12 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May19.151112.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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Stephanie-

Another good source of used and out-of-print books is Whitehouse-books.com
(formerly the Book Exchange) in Corning, NY.  Call them at 1-800-935-8536
for a catalog.  They specialize in glass books and if you really want to
drop some money, here's the place to do it!  Be patient, though; they don't
seem terribly organized most of the time.

Best regards,

Dani Greer
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From owner-glass Tue May 20 00:14:22 1997
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X-Path: hawk.rmplc.co.uk!mdcglas
From: Phil Speedwell <mdcglas@hawk.rmplc.co.uk>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: My First Site
Date: Tue, 20 May 97 08:14:33 +0100
Message-ID: <199705200713.HAA31725@mx0.rmplc.co.uk>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Glenna you said
>
>Very nice.  I especially liked the round panel with the blue flowers.
>Was the line vertical panel done in lead or copper foil?
>

Thanks 

The long panel was leaded, it was one of a series of three for a woman 
customer who had a large picture window and didn't want to have the whole 
window covered, so the compromise was three panels so her window was 
split into five strips panel, clear, panel etc. the pattern was based on 
a design by Charles Rennie Mackintosh as she was a great fan of his style.

Phil
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From owner-glass Tue May 20 06:29:01 1997
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X-Path: p085.aone.net.au!allcrafts
From: Melanie Dunstan <allcrafts@p085.aone.net.au>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: supplies and costs
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 11:55:01 +0800
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References: <<199705190359.XAA26154@uz.comcat.com>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Allcrafts Goods & Services
Precedence: bulk

Hi there anyone from Australia? I've been thinking about teaching a -
really basic - stained glass course at a local craft centre, and been
put off by the number of people who worriedly tell me that stained glass
supplies are REALLY expensive here. Anyone with any ideas or comments
please? Much appreciated. Regards Melanie Dunstan

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From owner-glass Tue May 20 14:30:13 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!StnGlsTres
From: StnGlsTres@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: textured cathedrals
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 17:29:10 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <1997May20.132910.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I have what is probably a very basic question.....but hey, a question is a
question, right?   I've just started working more with textured cathedral
glasses, I mostly worked with opals or plan cathedrals before.  My question
is: Does the texture go to the back or to the front??  I have some iridescent
clear crystal ice - I would think the iridescent side would go to the front,
making the texture go to the back, which is how I've used it so far.  But is
that always true?  Is there any "hard-and-fast rule" ??  Seems to me the
texture is usually meant to be the back side, looking at some of the sample
glass boxes I have.

(My other thought was that it was better to put the texture to the back just
so the dusting/cleaning of the piece is easier for the customer.... <g>  )

Thanks for any input!

Steph
============================
Stephanie Hansen
Stained Glass Treasures
http://members.aol.com/StnGlsTres
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From owner-glass Tue May 20 14:46:44 1997
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X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: textured cathedrals
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 17:43:19 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May20.134319.0>
References: <<1997May20.132910.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

StnGlsTres@aol.com wrote:
> 
> I have what is probably a very basic question.....but hey, a question is a
> question, right?   I've just started working more with textured cathedral
> glasses, I mostly worked with opals or plan cathedrals before.  My question
> is: Does the texture go to the back or to the front??  I have some iridescent
> clear crystal ice - I would think the iridescent side would go to the front,
> making the texture go to the back, which is how I've used it so far.  But is
> that always true?  Is there any "hard-and-fast rule" ??  Seems to me the
> texture is usually meant to be the back side, looking at some of the sample
> glass boxes I have.
> 
> (My other thought was that it was better to put the texture to the back just
> so the dusting/cleaning of the piece is easier for the customer.... <g>  )
> 
> Thanks for any input!
> 
> Steph
> ============================
> Stephanie Hansen
> Stained Glass Treasures
> http://members.aol.com/StnGlsTres
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


it all depends on what you want to see at an angle. if you looked at
your piece at an angle what would you want to see more, the texture, or
the irridescent? try it out both ways, to see what you like best.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
 New Pages Added:
 - New Instructional Guides Added!!!
 - The Creative Process
 - How to Find Patterns for Suncatchers
 - Picking Out Glass in the Store
 - 5 New Pictures in the 3-D Catagory
 - 2 New Pictures in the Panel Catagory
 - Updated Shots of The Heart of Atlantis, and Japanese Garden
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From owner-glass Tue May 20 15:38:34 1997
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From: George & Gloria <3hounds@usaor.net>
To: "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>,
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: RE: textured cathedrals
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 18:37:45 -0100
Message-ID: <1997May20.173745.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk



Hi Stephanie,=20
I have used iridized textured cathedrals and other textured cathedrals.  =
Recently, I finished a coyote panel. For the starlight perimeter I used =
Spectrum Iridized Granite, it reminded me of a evening starlit sky,  and =
had the textured side as the facing side.. On the cactus, I used =
hammered green cathedral and kept the texture as the back side.. My rule =
of thumb is, if the side you want as the facing side has a finished, =
glossy texture use it  either way.. For poinsettias,  I like to use =
Wismach Red Flemish with the textured side as the front..=20
As long as it is not scratched  or dirty/marred looking I think that is =
up to the designer/artist using it..=20
Gloria

----------
From:  StnGlsTres@aol.com[SMTP:StnGlsTres@aol.com]
Sent:  Tuesday, May 20, 1997 4:29 PM
To:  glass@bungi.com
Subject:  textured cathedrals

I have what is probably a very basic question.....but hey, a question is =
a
question, right?   I've just started working more with textured =
cathedral
glasses, I mostly worked with opals or plan cathedrals before.  My =
question
is: Does the texture go to the back or to the front??  I have some =
iridescent
clear crystal ice - I would think the iridescent side would go to the =
front,
making the texture go to the back, which is how I've used it so far.  =
But is
that always true?  Is there any "hard-and-fast rule" ??  Seems to me the
texture is usually meant to be the back side, looking at some of the =
sample
glass boxes I have.

(My other thought was that it was better to put the texture to the back =
just
so the dusting/cleaning of the piece is easier for the customer.... <g>  =
)

Thanks for any input!

Steph
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D
Stephanie Hansen
Stained Glass Treasures
http://members.aol.com/StnGlsTres
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From owner-glass Tue May 20 15:57:46 1997
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From: George & Gloria <3hounds@usaor.net>
To: "'bungians'" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: spray painting mosaics
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 18:59:32 -0100
Message-ID: <1997May20.175932.0>
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I am just getting back to the PC. In reply to Susie and spray painting =
the back of mosaics, I used the chrome bumper spray paint.. I found the =
most interesting pattern on the rough side of glue chip..  It =
highlighted the color of the glue ship and  brought more detail to the =
piece.. Hope this helps,=20
Gloria

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From owner-glass Tue May 20 15:57:58 1997
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From: "Hilary A. Bobker" <hilary@voicenet.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: My First Site
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 17:59:04 +0000
Message-ID: <1997May20.17594.0>
References: <<199705191113.LAA01572@mx0.rmplc.co.uk>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: HABit Fashion Services
Precedence: bulk

> I'm in the process of putting together my web site thought I would ask
> you fellow bunginians for comments before I go any further.

Hi, Phil,

Very nice page. I love your background. The long geometric panel is
wonderful, though I really like the blue flowers piece, too. Could you
include comments on who or what the pieces were for and how big they
are? Can you make the page load faster?

Take care,
Hilary
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From: George & Gloria <3hounds@usaor.net>
To: "'bungians'" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: reply to Dave and Lynn
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 18:59:40 -0100
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Dave and Lynn,
You asked why some of my  replied messages came back  with =3D=3D=3D=3D =
signs,
really I do not  know.. I am new to this technology and at times it =
scares me.. Give a cutter and grinder any time.. Shyguy, out there, do =
you know why..=20
I am thinking that some times I reply as a returned message but like =
tonight, I read your message at the office and I am replying to the =
bungi group as a new message..  I replied earlier to Stephanie as a =
reply so let's see what happens.
Gloria

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From owner-glass Tue May 20 16:25:26 1997
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X-Path: water.waterw.com!artglass
From: artglass@water.waterw.com (pj friend)
To: glass@BUNGI.COM
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Reading Materials
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 19:24:47 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <199705202324.TAA21678@water.waterw.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Dani wrote,

<< I'll include
>them on the reading list which I'll be glad to post in a week or so since
>quite a few of you have requested copies.  It's still a pretty sparse list,
>but I haven't given up the search.  The trouble is, I keep finding good art
>history books as I search, and it's starting to hurt my pocketbook!>>


Well I am sort of back......a reading list? hmmmm......well our library
really diverse.
But one of my favorites i a book called "Stained Glass". Lawrence Lee,
George Sedden and Frances Stephen.  Crown Publishers .  This is not an
instruction book.  
  In fact we liked it so much we brought three. Just in case.  
Our library to date has too many books to mention...And too many to dust
anymore.

I also like the NEW book Pate de Verre and kiln Casting of Glass by Jim
Kervin and Dan Fenton.  A real instruction book with loads of good instruction.

In our collection we have quite a few french books that we have acquired on
our annual trip.  I could list them but most are in french and probably
would not be of any use to anyone unless they are fluent in french. <BG>

my best,
pj

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From owner-glass Tue May 20 16:36:18 1997
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From: artglass@water.waterw.com (pj friend)
To: GLASS@BUNGI.COM
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Kilns.
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 19:35:42 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <199705202335.TAA22688@water.waterw.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

To the bungi group....

Had an interesting chat this weekend with a friend who does alot of glass
painting.
Seems there is a kiln made in Germany (I think thats where he said)  that
fires glass paints in seven minutes...you heard me right......7 count them,
seven minutes.  I gotta find one.......I want one.......I need one.......

And................here's the other wondeful thing.....it is small enough
that you could use it on site
if you had to.

Has anyone out there heard of this kiln??? And if you have I need to find
where to order one right away.  It is an infared (spelling??) heat unit.
Coils are all in the top of a dome shaped lid..  

Thanks!!

my best,
pj



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From owner-glass Tue May 20 16:41:53 1997
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From: jmccourt <jmccourt@neo.lrun.com>
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Subject: Re: My First Site 
Date: Tue, 20 May 97 19:40:22    
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> I'm in the process of putting together my web site thought 
I would ask
> you fellow bunginians for comments before I go any further.

I missed the address!  What was that again?

Thanks,

Judy

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From owner-glass Tue May 20 17:59:42 1997
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X-Path: ComCAT.COM!suzy
From: suzanne albright <suzy@ComCAT.COM>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: textured cathedrals
Date: Tue, 20 May 97 21:01:35 -0400
Message-ID: <199705210058.UAA17732@uz.comcat.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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For Stephanie Hansen:

I don't think there are any hard and fast rules. Put the texture wherever 
you want it for the best effect. 
If you put the iridescent part on the back, it will appear a little bit 
more subtle than if you put it on the front.

Another effect I have tried and like, is "plating" a piece of iridescent 
glass on the back of certain pieces of non-iridized glass, or even a 
whole section of a window. The iridescence doesn't show in the daytime, 
but does at night with reflected light. The only problem with that is, 
the plated piece of glass  "sticks out" on the back side of the panel.

Have fun!
Suzanne






Suzanne Albright
<suzy@comcat.com>

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From owner-glass Tue May 20 18:54:16 1997
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X-Path: computer.net!alewis
From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@computer.net>
To: glass@BUNGI.COM
Subject: Re: Kilns.
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@computer.net>
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 22:00:54 +0000
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> Seems there is a kiln made in Germany (I think thats where he said)  that
> fires glass paints in seven minutes

I can't imagine you could create a true bond between the glass paint 
and the underlying glass in that amount of time.  The glass wouldn't 
get hot enough.  Sounds like the glass paint gets hot enough to stick 
(sort of), but it wouldn't be durable.  Or would it?

It'll be interesting to see what you find out, pj.

Albert
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From owner-glass Tue May 20 20:02:54 1997
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X-Path: carol.net!ellison
From: Mark Ellison <ellison@carol.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Making Bevels on the Bevel Max
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 23:04:49 -0700
Message-ID: <1997May20.16449.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Does anyone have experience in making bevels on Diamond Tech's Bevel
Max? The Bevel Max is the standard Diamond Tech grinder, with some
additional disks.

I'm interested in trying to make a relatively small quantity of bevels. 
However, I don't see how the Bevel Max could bevel any kind of inside
curve.  

Is anyone familiar with any other "non-industrial" beveling equipment? 
(I recall, several years ago, seeing a light-weight machine that used
felt and cork wheels and cones to make bevels.)

I am interested in purchasing beveling equipment for my own personal
use; I don't want to go into the beveling business.  I am interested in
using large clusters in some projects; and I would like to purchase
equipment that would let me make my own custom clusters, in lieu of
purchasing ready-made clusters.  I would be willing to spend up to $500
for equipment that would allow me to attempt to do this. 

I would also be interested in any "How To" or instruction manuals about
beveling.  In addition, I would consider building the equipment myself
if I could obtain plans to do so.

If anyone could help with any of the above concerns, I would appreciate
hearing from you.
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From owner-glass Tue May 20 21:39:23 1997
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From: Redware1@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: grinder question
Date: Wed, 21 May 1997 00:38:29 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <1997May20.203829.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I am just starting to use my Gladstar All-star grinder.  I am using red/white
cathedral spectrum.  Along the edge where I am grinding, there are small
chips.  I am using this for mosaic, and I am afraid the edge will show
somewhat.  Is this due to the glass I am using, or am I doing something
wrong?

Diane
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From owner-glass Tue May 20 23:08:32 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!BarbaraBGS
From: BarbaraBGS@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Streamer Glass
Date: Wed, 21 May 1997 02:07:48 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <1997May20.22748.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Pat - Those 234 and 235 numbers in white you referred to are the sheet
numbers as they come through the lehr.  Bullseye and other manufacturers
number the sheets for inventory purposes.  There is no relation to the
catalog number of the glass at all.

Richard - if all else fails, you could fuse the matching glass yourself.
 Wouldn't be very difficult, since it's only fractures and streamers you need
included.  Ed Hoy lists white fractures with black streamers on a clear base
in his current catalog.  It's pricey though.  Barbara
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From owner-glass Tue May 20 23:37:01 1997
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From: BarbaraBGS@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Kilns.
Date: Wed, 21 May 1997 02:36:19 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <1997May20.223619.0>
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That kiln is on sale at Delphi now for under $200.  Barbara
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From owner-glass Tue May 20 23:40:03 1997
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From: "Myrddn" <exotic@mail.lobo.net>
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Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 13:23:38 +0000
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On 16 May 97, StndGlass1@aol.com wrote:

>.  Just my 2 cents.
> 
> Jenna Meredith
> Meredith Stained Glass 

Jenna, your comments are always worth more the 2 cents
Blessed Be

Myrddn
Bring your heart when you come, and they will come!

Nothing happens by chance. All is serendipity!


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From owner-glass Wed May 21 04:34:45 1997
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Subject: Kilns
Date: Wed, 21 May 1997 06:34:53 -0500
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pj,
Sounds like Paragon's Quikfire mini-kiln to me. It will fire up to 2000
degrees and can only hold a 5 inch square shelf.

Sandy
Creations In Glass
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From owner-glass Wed May 21 05:50:43 1997
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From: melinton@alison.sbc.edu
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Subject: bevels and light
Date: Wed, 21 May 1997 08:51:24 -0400
Message-ID: <l03020700afa89fb1c8ef@[198.28.38.107]>
References: <<1997May20.203829.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

The question about textured cathedrals made me remember to ask about
bevels. If the piece has bevels in it should the beveled side hang toward
the light or the flat side? I'm guessing the beveled side should be toward
the light. Thanks for any help clearing this up.
--Liz

Patience is everything.
		--R.M. Rilke


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From owner-glass Wed May 21 06:25:16 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!KrissyMar
From: KrissyMar@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: grinder question
Date: Wed, 21 May 1997 09:24:15 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <1997May21.52415.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Check for one of the following: 
     Are you using enough water or coolant to keep the bit wet?
     Are you applying too much pressure to the glass?
     Are you grinding so that the glass is touching another part of the bit
other than the daimond surface?
     Is there a flaw in the diamond surface? 
     You may want to adjust the bit up or down a little to see if that helps,
and check to make sure that the bit is plenty wet during grinding, and be
careful about not using too much pressure when grinding as all these factors
could cause chipping at the edges.   Good luck, I hope this helps.   Kris
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From owner-glass Wed May 21 06:29:33 1997
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Making Bevels on the Bevel Max
Date: Wed, 21 May 1997 09:25:07 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May21.5257.0>
References: <<1997May20.16449.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Mark Ellison wrote:
> 
> Does anyone have experience in making bevels on Diamond Tech's Bevel
> Max? The Bevel Max is the standard Diamond Tech grinder, with some
> additional disks.
> 
> I'm interested in trying to make a relatively small quantity of bevels.
> However, I don't see how the Bevel Max could bevel any kind of inside
> curve.
> 
> Is anyone familiar with any other "non-industrial" beveling equipment?
> (I recall, several years ago, seeing a light-weight machine that used
> felt and cork wheels and cones to make bevels.)
> 
> I am interested in purchasing beveling equipment for my own personal
> use; I don't want to go into the beveling business.  I am interested in
> using large clusters in some projects; and I would like to purchase
> equipment that would let me make my own custom clusters, in lieu of
> purchasing ready-made clusters.  I would be willing to spend up to $500
> for equipment that would allow me to attempt to do this.
> 
> I would also be interested in any "How To" or instruction manuals about
> beveling.  In addition, I would consider building the equipment myself
> if I could obtain plans to do so.
> 
> If anyone could help with any of the above concerns, I would appreciate
> hearing from you.
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


i have the bevel max, it's ok i suppose. i personally never could get a
smooth bevel. and if i use it with the angle guide they supplied it
scratches up the face of the glass. if you don't line up the glass just
right on the paper, the paper explodes and is rendered useless. when it
comes time to polish it, there is never enough water on the pad, so the
glass crasks do to heat. and if you apply alot of water all the
polishing compund washes off, not that it matters any because when you
turn it on most of the polish sprays off anyway. there is'nt a good
water catching system, most of lands on you and the table. the video
they supplied, stunk. it showed a grinder that did'nt match yours
completly, and they were'nt very descriptive.

i mainly got the thing because i wanted to polish my own agates. i ask
them if this thing could handle it, they said yes. i could almost do all
the steps (though a little hard to grip onto the thing), except i
could'nt do the final sanding, the paper would usally move.

all in all i would'nt recomend it if you want to make bevels, though it
it a powerfull machine, more powerful then an inland from what i can
tell. it would make a good edge grinder. oh yeah it does'nt do inside
curves, they claim their working on that. 

i think glasstar came out with one, with magnetic disks that are also
larger. they also have more professional equipment, so check them out.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
 New Pages Added:
 - New Instructional Guides Added!!!
 - The Creative Process
 - How to Find Patterns for Suncatchers
 - Picking Out Glass in the Store
 - 5 New Pictures in the 3-D Catagory
 - 2 New Pictures in the Panel Catagory
 - Updated Shots of The Heart of Atlantis, and Japanese Garden
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From owner-glass Wed May 21 06:31:36 1997
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: grinder question
Date: Wed, 21 May 1997 09:26:32 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May21.52632.0>
References: <<1997May20.203829.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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Redware1@aol.com wrote:
> 
> I am just starting to use my Gladstar All-star grinder.  I am using red/white
> cathedral spectrum.  Along the edge where I am grinding, there are small
> chips.  I am using this for mosaic, and I am afraid the edge will show
> somewhat.  Is this due to the glass I am using, or am I doing something
> wrong?
> 
> Diane
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

that usally caused becuase the tip is either new, or is too course. to
get a chip free surface you'll have to get a fine tip instead of a
standard tip a grinder comes with.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
 New Pages Added:
 - New Instructional Guides Added!!!
 - The Creative Process
 - How to Find Patterns for Suncatchers
 - Picking Out Glass in the Store
 - 5 New Pictures in the 3-D Catagory
 - 2 New Pictures in the Panel Catagory
 - Updated Shots of The Heart of Atlantis, and Japanese Garden
----
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From owner-glass Wed May 21 06:32:24 1997
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From: artglass@water.waterw.com (pj friend)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Kilns.
Date: Wed, 21 May 1997 09:31:16 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <199705211331.JAA27767@water.waterw.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Barbara wrote,


>That kiln is on sale at Delphi now for under $200.  Barbara>>

Sorry Barb thats not the one...the kiln I speak of retails for over $5000.00.

my best,
pj

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From owner-glass Wed May 21 06:34:21 1997
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From: artglass@water.waterw.com (pj friend)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Kilns
Date: Wed, 21 May 1997 09:33:32 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <199705211333.JAA27994@water.waterw.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Sandy wrote,
>Sounds like Paragon's Quikfire mini-kiln to me. It will fire up to 2000
>degrees and can only hold a 5 inch square shelf.>
>

The kiln is not made in this country.  And is probably about 24 x 45 inchs.
Not a mini kiln.
I am still searching.  Thanks

my best,
pj


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From owner-glass Wed May 21 06:34:51 1997
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	for rglass-42; Wed, 21 May 1997 06:33:58 -0700 (PDT)
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X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: bevels and light
Date: Wed, 21 May 1997 09:30:57 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May21.53057.0>
References: <<l03020700afa89fb1c8ef@[198.28.38.107]>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

melinton@alison.sbc.edu wrote:
> 
> The question about textured cathedrals made me remember to ask about
> bevels. If the piece has bevels in it should the beveled side hang toward
> the light or the flat side? I'm guessing the beveled side should be toward
> the light. Thanks for any help clearing this up.
> --Liz
> 
> Patience is everything.
>                 --R.M. Rilke
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


you may get a more prismatic effect if the flat side is towards you. but
you may loose some of the distorting effect it has. i usally point the
bevel toward me, for a few reasons.

1. it's alot easier to solder.
2. when looking at the front, it gives a more 3-dimensional quality to
it.
3. it also lends it self to be more elegant looking.

though usally in a box setting (like if you side the sides), the bevel
may be better if turned in.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
 New Pages Added:
 - New Instructional Guides Added!!!
 - The Creative Process
 - How to Find Patterns for Suncatchers
 - Picking Out Glass in the Store
 - 5 New Pictures in the 3-D Catagory
 - 2 New Pictures in the Panel Catagory
 - Updated Shots of The Heart of Atlantis, and Japanese Garden
----
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From owner-glass Wed May 21 06:40:30 1997
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	for rglass-42; Wed, 21 May 1997 06:39:39 -0700 (PDT)
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X-Path: digital.net!agw
From: Jennifer Daniels <agw@digital.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Making Bevels on the Bevel Max
Date: Wed, 21 May 1997 09:39:26 -0400 (GMT)
Message-ID: <199705211339.JAA28004@ddi.digital.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Thanks for your interest in the Bevel Max.  For years our customers have
asked us for an affordable beveler and after months of research and design
we developed the Bevel Max Studio Beveling System (suggested retail $299).
Since its introduction last fall it has been one of our top sellers.  The
base is the same on all of our Max grinders which make them convertible for
additional grinding functions (ie: you can start with the Diamond Max or
Power Max and convert it into the Bevel Max or start with the Bevel Max and
convert it into a grinder).  All bases have the most powerful grinder motors
in stained glass and all tools come with a 5 year warranty.

The Bevel Max is a four step process which takes about 5 minutes per side.
The system includes diamond disk, two grit laps, polishing pad, compound,
spalsh guard booth with water bottle and instructional video.  Your finished
result is a clear, polished bevel.  The process is quick and easy to do
(when we do demos people with no beveling experience quickly create their
own bevels).  The response to the tool has been very positive.  At the AGSA
show this spring we will introduce a disk to make inside curves.  Please
call DTI at 800-937-9593 if you have any questions or to find the dealer
nearest you.

Jennifer Daniels
Diamond Tech International

At 11:04 PM 5/20/97 -0700, you wrote:
>Does anyone have experience in making bevels on Diamond Tech's Bevel
>Max? The Bevel Max is the standard Diamond Tech grinder, with some
>additional disks.
>
>I'm interested in trying to make a relatively small quantity of bevels. 
>However, I don't see how the Bevel Max could bevel any kind of inside
>curve.  
>
>Is anyone familiar with any other "non-industrial" beveling equipment? 
>(I recall, several years ago, seeing a light-weight machine that used
>felt and cork wheels and cones to make bevels.)
>
>I am interested in purchasing beveling equipment for my own personal
>use; I don't want to go into the beveling business.  I am interested in
>using large clusters in some projects; and I would like to purchase
>equipment that would let me make my own custom clusters, in lieu of
>purchasing ready-made clusters.  I would be willing to spend up to $500
>for equipment that would allow me to attempt to do this. 
>
>I would also be interested in any "How To" or instruction manuals about
>beveling.  In addition, I would consider building the equipment myself
>if I could obtain plans to do so.
>
>If anyone could help with any of the above concerns, I would appreciate
>hearing from you.
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
>

----
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From owner-glass Wed May 21 06:43:30 1997
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X-Path: water.waterw.com!artglass
From: artglass@water.waterw.com (pj friend)
To: glass@BUNGI.COM
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Kilns.
Date: Wed, 21 May 1997 09:42:36 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <199705211342.JAA28853@water.waterw.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Albert wrote,
I can't imagine you could create a true bond between the glass paint 
>and the underlying glass in that amount of time.  The glass wouldn't 
>get hot enough.  Sounds like the glass paint gets hot enough to stick 
>(sort of), but it wouldn't be durable.  Or would it?>>

Well its suppose to fire high enough to do more than that!!!!  With infared
heat.  I have never had any experience with that kind of heat so I don't know.

It sounds amazing and I am serachiing, searching searching.......I heard
that Joe Mirlano has one.  Do you know of him.  He does alot of restoration
work.  So now I am in search of him.

Also does anyone know of a school that teaches glasswork in Barcalona?   

Is anyone going to "GlassLovers Weekend" at Wheaton in June?????  You
shouldn't miss it.  Chihuily will be lecturing and Lino (I can never spell
his last name right) will be giving the demos.  And millions of dollars
worth of glass.  Amazing to see it all.

my best,
pj

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From owner-glass Wed May 21 06:46:55 1997
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X-Path: iamerica.net!flowers
From: Mike Barr <flowers@iAmerica.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: grinder question
Date: Wed, 21 May 1997 08:42:34 -0500
Message-ID: <1997May21.34234.0>
References: <<1997May20.203829.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Flowers Etc
Precedence: bulk

Diane, you probably should look at the grinder head. Either it 
is a speed bit for fast grinding( heavy grit) or it may be damaged & the 
grit not evenly applied. For what you are describing I would use a fine 
grit bit around 200 
		Mike Barr
		Flowers Etc
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From owner-glass Wed May 21 06:48:17 1997
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X-Path: water.waterw.com!artglass
From: artglass@water.waterw.com (pj friend)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: bevels and light
Date: Wed, 21 May 1997 09:47:14 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <199705211347.JAA29317@water.waterw.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

R>M> wrote,
>The question about textured cathedrals made me remember to ask about
>bevels. If the piece has bevels in it should the beveled side hang toward
>the light or the flat side? I'm guessing the beveled side should be toward
>the light. Thanks for any help clearing this up.
>--Liz
Right side...wrong side???/

We have a rule.....that can be broken when elected to.

The right side is the side that the clients wants to see.
The right side is the way we designed it.
The right side is the side that enhances the glass.
And the right side is the way I say is right.


my best,
pj (who is always right)

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From owner-glass Wed May 21 07:07:41 1997
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From: artglass@water.waterw.com (pj friend)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: grinder question
Date: Wed, 21 May 1997 10:06:32 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <199705211406.KAA01349@water.waterw.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

>Redware1@aol.com wrote:
>> 
>> I am just starting to use my Gladstar All-star grinder.  I am using red/white
>> cathedral spectrum.  Along the edge where I am grinding, there are small
>> chips.  I am using this for mosaic, and I am afraid the edge will show
>> somewhat.  Is this due to the glass I am using, or am I doing something
>> wrong?
>> 
I would say that the bit you are using is not right for cathedral glass.

One bit is not used for all glass!!!!  

I wouldn't worry about the edges showing in the mosaic.  Whatever you fill
in with will settle in those small lines. probably will not notice it.  But,
I would change the bit and see if that does it for you first.

my best,
pj


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From owner-glass Wed May 21 07:19:13 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!StnGlsTres
From: StnGlsTres@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: right side/wrong side
Date: Wed, 21 May 1997 10:18:15 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <1997May21.61815.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


<< The right side is the side that the clients wants to see.
 The right side is the way we designed it.
 The right side is the side that enhances the glass.
 And the right side is the way I say is right.
 
 my best,
 pj (who is always right)
  >>

Love it, pj!!

Thanks to everyone for the responses to my textured cathedrals question -
sounds like the consensus is essentially in line with "pj's rule" !!

Steph
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From owner-glass Wed May 21 07:37:04 1997
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From: bashful <shyguy@vdot.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: reply to Dave and Lynn
Date: Wed, 21 May 1997 10:34:26 -0700
Message-ID: <1997May21.33426.0>
References: <<1997May20.175940.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Heretics United
Precedence: bulk

George & Gloria wrote:
> 
> Dave and Lynn,
> You asked why some of my  replied messages came back  with =3D=3D=3D=3D =
> signs,
> really I do not  know.. I am new to this technology and at times it =
> scares me.. Give a cutter and grinder any time.. Shyguy, out there, do =
> you know why..=20
It may be what you are using on either end of this thing we call the
Net. Everything that gets sent  or received is converted to BINARY - go
back to High School math - a series of 0's or 1's - this is the common
language all computers can understand - the Esperanto of microchips. The
computer comverts the binary data to another version - either ASCII or
EBCIDIC - a human interface so you don't have to understand what all
those 0's and 1's mean. some word processors and mail readers use
SPECIAL characters, that do not translate to an alphnumeric charcter
i.e. 0-9, A-Z. the 'special' characters control the 'typewriter'
functions, such as TABS, INDENTS, Carriage Return, etc. I hit a hard
return here ---->

   Depending on the software you use to read the message, you might get
the ASCII or EBCIDIC data, or whatever the '=3D' converts to with the
software you are using. At the end of each line of the original message
I am replying to, I see a '=', and a the effect of a carriage return.
The software that created that message most likely imbedded a 'hard' or
'soft' carriage return, that is either the line was going to wrap, or
the 'return' or 'enter' key was pushed. the last line has an '=20',
which I would guess the author hit a 'hard' return, to form a new
paragraph.    

Given there are not a lot of standards in the industry, it's amazing
that we can exhange data at all. There is amil that can come from a MAC,
or PC/clone, being read by either, with software ranging from MS
Explorer, Netscape, Eudora, PINE, AOL, Compuserve etc. 
So now that I've bored you all with computer Basics 101, the bottom line
is the extra 'junk' you may find in your mail is caused by your computer
not completely understanding what its trying to read, or ' something
gets lost in the translation'.
If anyone wants clarification, or explanations of computer basics, feel
free to email me direct, so we don't tie up the bandwidth for the rest
of the group.
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From owner-glass Wed May 21 07:46:44 1997
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From: Melanie Dunstan <allcrafts@p085.aone.net.au>
To: glass@BUNGI.COM
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Kilns.
Date: Wed, 21 May 1997 15:39:50 +0800
Message-ID: <1997May21.233950.0>
References: <<199705202335.TAA22688@water.waterw.com>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Allcrafts Goods & Services
Precedence: bulk

pj friend wrote:
> 
> To the bungi group....
> 
> Had an interesting chat this weekend with a friend who does alot of glass
> painting.
> Seems there is a kiln made in Germany (I think thats where he said)  that
> fires glass paints in seven minutes...you heard me right......7 count them,
> seven minutes.  I gotta find one.......I want one.......I need one.......
> 
> And................here's the other wondeful thing.....it is small enough
> that you could use it on site
> if you had to.
> 
> Has anyone out there heard of this kiln??? And if you have I need to find
> where to order one right away.  It is an infared (spelling??) heat unit.
> Coils are all in the top of a dome shaped lid..
> 
> Thanks!!
> 
> my best,
> pj
> 
> ----
me too, me toooo, me toooooooo - please? Thanks, Melanie Dunstan


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From owner-glass Wed May 21 07:47:19 1997
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From: Melanie Dunstan <allcrafts@p085.aone.net.au>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Kilns.
Date: Wed, 21 May 1997 17:16:23 +0800
Message-ID: <1997May22.11623.0>
References: <<1997May20.223619.0>>
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BarbaraBGS@aol.com wrote:
> 
> That kiln is on sale at Delphi now for under $200.  Barbara
> ----
Delphi? As in Greece? Please enlighten an ingorant Australian! I would
be happy to import direct from manufacturers Germany if appropriate, or
USA - or Greece, or wherever... but Albert Lewis raised a doubt about
the permanency of the paint... so I would need to find out about that.
Do you have any advice as to where I could get this info please? Thanks
and regards Melanie Dunstan


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From owner-glass Wed May 21 08:25:34 1997
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X-Path: busprod.com!artist
From: artist@busprod.com (LJ Maas)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Kilns
Date: Wed, 21 May 1997 10:31:12 -0500
Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.19970521103112.006ac1a4@busprod.com>
References: <<199705211333.JAA27994@water.waterw.com>>
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>The kiln is not made in this country.  And is probably about 24 x 45 inchs.
>Not a mini kiln.


pj...you might try someone at Arrow Springs. They may be able to tell you
where to purchase one if they don't actually carry it since they specialize
in hot glass. They have a web page at:
<http://www.innercite.com/~flameon/>
you can also call...it's in CA at: (916) 677-9482

good luck...LJ
  ****************************************************************
LJ Maas: artist@busprod.com
ART WITH ATTITUDE Stained Glass Design
"Unique Stained Glass Creations"
<http://www.art-with-attitude.com/glass/artglass.html>

OVER THE RAINBOW Webpage Design & Consulting
<http://www.art-with-attitude.com/rainbow.html>
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From owner-glass Wed May 21 09:09:23 1997
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From: BarbaraBGS@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Kilns.
Date: Wed, 21 May 1997 12:08:12 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <1997May21.8812.0>
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There are some glass paints (like Deka) which only need to be fired to around
300 degrees F.  However, the enamels (glass, really) all need to be fired
above 1100 degrees.  The dome shaped kiln you describe sounds like the
Evenheat or Paragon quick fire.  There is also a kiln which lifts apart and
is made by both Evenheat and AIM.  It's described in one of Bullseye's fact
sheets and used with three of them stacked to created special effects.
 Barbara
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From owner-glass Wed May 21 10:24:51 1997
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From: yj3673@sunams.usma.army.mil (McLaughlin John COL)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Kilns.
Date: Wed May 21 13:07:54 1997
Message-ID: <9705211707.AA27100@sunams.usma.army.mil>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I use a Paragon Quick Fire - it takes a little longer than 7 min - about 5 min 
to pre heat at 400-500 then about 8 min t get to 1300-1400 then I turn it off.
Seems to work and the paint stays on.  Only has a 6X6 in chamber - OK for 
little pieces.

John
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From owner-glass Wed May 21 12:57:32 1997
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From: "Michael J. Greer" <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: "INTERNET:glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: grinder question
Date: Wed, 21 May 1997 15:52:02 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May21.11522.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Also, try tilting your glass as you grind it - as though you're grinding a
slight bevel on each side.  That sometimes does the trick, too.

Best regards,

Dani Greer
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From owner-glass Wed May 21 12:57:36 1997
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From: "Michael J. Greer" <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: "INTERNET:glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: bevels and light
Date: Wed, 21 May 1997 15:51:55 -0400
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Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Or as Michael, my delightful husband would say to ME, "When I married Ms.
Right, I didn't know I was marrying Ms.  ALWAYS Right"!!  And on that note,
I prefer the bevel to the inside because with or without light, the glass
looks thicker and richer.

Best regards,

Dani Greer
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From owner-glass Wed May 21 12:58:11 1997
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From: "Michael J. Greer" <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: All <GLASS@BUNGI.COM>
Subject: Kilns
Date: Wed, 21 May 1997 15:51:48 -0400
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Michael wants to know how you keep the glass from breaking in a kiln that
fires in seven minutes.  
And then I got a little lecture on how most better kilns use infra-red
anyway - I usually tune-out early on when things get technical and so I
can't pass on any more, but if anyone is really interested, I'll listen
better the second time!:-)

Best regards,

Dani Greer
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From owner-glass Wed May 21 13:25:25 1997
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From: artglass@water.waterw.com (pj friend)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Kilns.
Date: Wed, 21 May 1997 16:24:10 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <199705212024.QAA06417@water.waterw.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Barbara wrote,
>There are some glass paints (like Deka) which only need to be fired to around
>300 degrees F.  However, the enamels (glass, really) all need to be fired
>above 1100 degrees. >>

Thanks for the info.  We don't use Deka on our painting mostly Reusche. 
I am familiar with all the kilns that have been mentioned and thanks for all
the info.
But this kiln is a infared heat.  Not the usual coils.

Thanks again....my search continues.

my best,
pj
 

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From owner-glass Wed May 21 13:27:06 1997
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From: artglass@water.waterw.com (pj friend)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Kilns.
Date: Wed, 21 May 1997 16:26:09 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <199705212026.QAA06594@water.waterw.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

John wrote,
>I use a Paragon Quick Fire - it takes a little longer than 7 min - about 5 min 
>to pre heat at 400-500 then about 8 min t get to 1300-1400 then I turn it off.
>Seems to work and the paint stays on.  Only has a 6X6 in chamber - OK for 
>little pieces.
>
Thanks for your info John.  Still not THE kiln.  Those kilns are not as
pricey as the one I am in serach of. And are quite a bit smaller. Wish they
would work.  

my best,
pj

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From owner-glass Wed May 21 13:31:57 1997
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From: artglass@water.waterw.com (pj friend)
To: glass@BUNGI.COM
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Kilns
Date: Wed, 21 May 1997 16:31:21 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <199705212031.QAA07073@water.waterw.com>
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Dani wrote,
>Michael wants to know how you keep the glass from breaking in a kiln that
>fires in seven minutes.  
>And then I got a little lecture on how most better kilns use infra-red
>anyway - I usually tune-out early on when things get technical and so I
>can't pass on any more, but if anyone is really interested, I'll listen
>better the second time!:-)
>
When I find this kiln...and purchase it I will tell the world!!!!! And
Michael will be first on my list.

my best,
pj (who is now on a MISSION...oh I just love it!!!)

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From owner-glass Wed May 21 13:32:57 1997
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From: artglass@water.waterw.com (pj friend)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: grinder question
Date: Wed, 21 May 1997 16:32:16 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <199705212032.QAA07145@water.waterw.com>
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Dani wrote,
>Also, try tilting your glass as you grind it - as though you're grinding a
>slight bevel on each side.  That sometimes does the trick, too.
>
There is also a bit that will put a bevel on the edge if you want.

my best,
pj>

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From owner-glass Wed May 21 13:34:11 1997
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From: artglass@water.waterw.com (pj friend)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: bevels and light
Date: Wed, 21 May 1997 16:33:34 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <199705212033.QAA07279@water.waterw.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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Dani wrote,
>Or as Michael, my delightful husband would say to ME, "When I married Ms.
>Right, I didn't know I was marrying Ms.  ALWAYS Right"!!  And on that note,
>I prefer the bevel to the inside because with or without light, the glass
>looks thicker and richer.
>
I get this strange feeling that Dani is my other self living and working in
Colorado.

And I am sure she is RIGHT!!! Always.


my best,
pj

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From owner-glass Wed May 21 13:46:55 1997
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From: len alcamo <alcamoz@mwt.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: bevels and light
Date: Wed, 21 May 1997 15:45:03 -0500 (CDT)
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Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

A!  And on that note,
>I prefer the bevel to the inside because with or without light, the glass
>looks thicker and richer.

I would tend to agree Dani, the bevel side should generally face the
direction the panel is usually viewed from. Although, most entry systems
have the bevels on the outside which I guess would be the side you would
want to project the best face to.

I had an encounter with a double bevel window in a Fl. restuarant, it was a
nice straight line goemetric assembled with wide heart lead, each back to
back sandwich was slighty *out of register* for lack of a better term, and
there was some interesting prismatic light play and neat magnification stuff
going on. Anybody else ever seen one?

Len

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From owner-glass Wed May 21 14:01:57 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!Bubstah
From: Bubstah@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Kilns.
Date: Wed, 21 May 1997 17:00:14 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <1997May21.13014.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Haven't heard about Glass Lovers Weekend at Wheaton.  Is that in N.J.  There
is a Wheaton Glass about 25 miles from me.  If that is the correct place,
please advise when in June this is to take place. I would love to go since it
is close by.
Thanks for any info you may have.
Bubstah
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From owner-glass Wed May 21 16:39:33 1997
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
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Subject: Re: My First Site
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@mail.nildram.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 22 May 1997 00:38:49 +0000
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Hi Phil,
Have earmarked your WEB-site and will have a look asap.
As far as I know, that makes 3 of us in the UK in Bungi.
Can't be bad. Hang in there
All the Best
Elisabeth 'n Toby

Phil wrote:
> I'm in the process of putting together my web site thought I would ask
> you fellow bunginians for comments before I go any further.

----
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http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
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From owner-glass Wed May 21 16:39:37 1997
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Date: Thu, 22 May 1997 00:38:49 +0000
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Hi Dani (et al),
I completely agree with PJ Friend about the title "Stained Glass", by 
Lawrence Lee, George Seddon, Francis Stephens. It is a wonderful 
reference book. It was First published in UK in 1976 by Mitchell 
Beazley Publishers Ltd. MY particular edition DOES have a 
comprehensive instruction of "How to make a stained glass panel" and 
"How to restore a stained glass panel". It is quite a substantial 
sized book (about A3 size). The photography is excellent. It is quite 
pricey. I also warmly recommend the Patrick Reytniens book, which PJ 
also mentioned 
In fact, BOTH books I have myself recommended on a number of 
occasions into the Group in the past...
PJ:  Do let me know some of the books in French you might be able to 
recommend (... ahem... just one or two of us might have a modest 
command of the lingo to struggle through....)
Again - for the "Pilgrims to Chartres" (new AND old), may I recommend
Chartres Cathedral by Malcolm Miller ( an English scholar who has 
dedicated almost 40 years to living and studying the glass at the 
Cathedral there). The photography is as good  as in "Stained Glass" 
(not surprising since the main photographer in both cases is Sonia 
Halliday & Laura Lushington). There is a second edition of "Chartres 
Cathedral" just out. ISBN No. is 0 85372 7376 for the hard-back   and
                                                  0 75372 7929 for 
the soft-back.

Sorry I have bee so quiet lately (thank God! say some!!....) Have 
just installed a heavy-artillary soft-ware programme which has JUST 
the spread-sheets I have been thirsting for, for the last 3 years....
Which is JUST in time, since the UK Tax-Man is after my tail again 
(it's THAT time of year). I am also doing a computer course for about 
3 months. In the little "windows of time" left over, I am trying to 
keep little 82-year old widows happy......   ;-)
PJ again: very impressed with your web-site.Did you hear more from 
the Salvation Army guy??
.... in haste....
Elisabeth 'n Toby

Dani wrote,

<< I'll include
>them on the reading list which I'll be glad to post in a week or so since
>quite a few of you have requested copies.  It's still a pretty sparse list,
>but I haven't given up the search.  The trouble is, I keep finding good art
>history books as I search, and it's starting to hurt my pocketbook!>>

PJ wrote:
Well I am sort of back......a reading list? hmmmm......well our library
really diverse.
But one of my favorites i a book called "Stained Glass". Lawrence Lee,
George Sedden and Frances Stephen.  Crown Publishers .  This is not an
instruction book.  
  In fact we liked it so much we brought three. Just in case.  
Our library to date has too many books to mention...And too many to dust
anymore.
UNQUOTE
I also like the NEW book Pate de Verre and kiln Casting of Glass by Jim
Kervin and Dan Fenton.  A real instruction book with loads of good instruction.

In our collection we have quite a few french books that we have acquired on
our annual trip.  I could list them but most are in french and probably
would not be of any use to anyone unless they are fluent in french. <BG>

----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
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From owner-glass Wed May 21 16:59:11 1997
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X-Path: swin.edu.au!aking
From: aking@swin.edu.au
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Delphi
Summary: Authenticated sender is <aking@gpo.swin.edu.au>
Date: Thu, 22 May 1997 10:00:04 +0000
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Melanie

Enough with the ignorant Australian bit.  I'm an Aussie....

Delphi is an outlet of supplies for glass artists  in US and 
very good I might add, I have purchased from them with no problems.  
Also had the pleasure of meeting the staff and especially Stephanie 
while I was in Michigan in December 96.  They have a web site you can 
visit also.

Also Melanie, where are you from?  If you are going to teach glass 
in Aust you must have been doing glasswork and would surely know the 
prices we have to pay here?  Or are you moving here from other parts 
of the world.   If I can help with some details I surely will.

Andrea

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From owner-glass Wed May 21 17:23:18 1997
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X-Path: kwic.com!mnvve3
From: Garry McKenna <mnvve3@kwic.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: kilns
Date: Wed, 21 May 1997 20:21:40 -0400
Message-ID: <1.5.4.32.19970522002140.00672d3c@mail.kwic.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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Hi, Linda here:

I don't quite know why you want to paint on glass, or rather how involved
you want to get.  But there is a new product on the market that claims to be
a new air-dry formula for glass and ceramics and more.  It is claimed that
it drys in 1 hour and can be washed after 6 days, and also claimed that it
is oven-safe and dishwasher-safe.  Don't know if this is what you are
looking for, and don't know how true the claims are. It is from a company
called Delta Technical Coatings, Inc.  in California.  If you are interested
I can give you the rest of the information I have.  I bought some a month or
so ago and have not gotten around to using it yet.  

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From owner-glass Wed May 21 17:49:35 1997
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X-Path: compuserve.com!GreerStudios
From: "Michael J. Greer" <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: All <GLASS@BUNGI.COM>
Subject: Reading materials
Date: Wed, 21 May 1997 20:48:36 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May21.164836.0>
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Hi Elisabeth -

Thanks for the feedback - already have 'em on the list.  Too bad so many of
the oldies but goodies are out-of-print, though.  Every glass artist ought
to have copies of those for reference. I sent a letter to Dover suggesting
they publish "Stained Glass" (there's an original title!) and the Reytiens
book (Technique of Stained Glass - another inspiring title).  I'd also love
to get my hands on any of Lewis F. Day's books, if anyone out there has any
spares lying around!

Oh, and congratulations on your certification.  I don't think we have
anything like that here in the U.S.... or maybe we do (?)  Maybe Albert
knows - how do glass artists officially become "masters" over here?  Or,
unofficially for that matter.  Is it the same path as becoming a
"world-renowned" tattoo artist?  (I have one up the street from me, no
kidding!) I think it would enhance the validity of this old and fine craft
if we had a serious apprentice/journeyman/master certification program. 
Isn't that what guilds are for, in part?

Best regards,

Dani Greer
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From owner-glass Wed May 21 18:07:57 1997
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From: robert crane <robertcrane@thezone.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Sale of used reference material
Date: Wed, 21 May 1997 22:47:08 -0230
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Hi:-
oft times we resell books that are no longer of use to us but does the 
same hold true for videos? Would it be crass, illegial or any way bad 
taste to inquire if anyone has videos which they might want to sell?
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From owner-glass Wed May 21 18:14:14 1997
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From: robert crane <robertcrane@thezone.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Resale of used material
Date: Wed, 21 May 1997 22:53:58 -0230
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Organization: thezone
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Hi:
We oft times sell books which are of little use to us, but does the same 
hold true for videos? Would it be crass,illegal or otherwise bad taste 
to inquire if any body had "how to videos" which were no longer of any 
use to you? And are they for resale?
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From owner-glass Wed May 21 18:36:37 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!AlexG2
From: AlexG2@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Getting Started in the Glass Business
Date: Wed, 21 May 1997 21:35:42 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <1997May21.173542.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

This is a great mail list.  Its great to have found such a active list of
people sharing their glass experiences.

I took my first stained glass class a little over a year ago and have been
hooked ever since.  I've pretty much been doing construction management and a
little architecture since getting out of college about 14 years ago and also
support a wife, two kids, and two cats.

I've been looking for information about starting a retail glass business,
 about all I've found so far is a book by Loretta Radeschi entitled 'This
Business of Glass'.  I was hoping to find more information about
understanding the glass business and how to develop a business plan.  I was
also looking for information on understanding regional  demographics as it
related to the glass business.

Any leads would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
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From owner-glass Wed May 21 19:11:28 1997
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X-Path: compuserve.com!GreerStudios
From: "Michael J. Greer" <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: "INTERNET:glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: kilns
Date: Wed, 21 May 1997 22:10:23 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May21.181023.0>
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Hi Linda -
We do a lot of figurative work especially for churches and traditionally,
at least the faces, hands, and feet are painted.  We use the good
old-fashioned (and very expensive) glass paints that you have to high-fire
- that's so our work will last 1,000 years, too (or at least the rest of MY
lifetime!)

Best regards,

Dani Greer

Greer Gallery & Studios
http://eme.usa.net/greerstudios/ 
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From owner-glass Wed May 21 21:36:13 1997
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X-Path: msn.com!jazzykid
From: "Jill Medlyn" <jazzykid@msn.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: RE: Sale of used reference material
Date: Thu, 22 May 97 04:33:44 UT
Message-ID: <UPMAIL13.199705220434320865@msn.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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Robert Crane...I will trade you I have 2 videos...email me jazzykid@msn.com...

----------
From: 	robert crane
Sent: 	Wednesday, May 21, 1997 9:17 PM
To: 	glass@bungi.com
Subject: 	Sale of used reference material

Hi:-
oft times we resell books that are no longer of use to us but does the 
same hold true for videos? Would it be crass, illegial or any way bad 
taste to inquire if anyone has videos which they might want to sell?
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From owner-glass Wed May 21 21:46:32 1997
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X-Path: gunnison.com!debbi
From: Debi Overton <debbi@gunnison.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Sale of used reference material
Date: Wed, 21 May 1997 22:49:39 -0600
Message-ID: <1997May21.164939.0>
References: <<UPMAIL13.199705220434320865@msn.com>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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I would also be interested in 'how-to' videos.  Thanks. 
debbi@gunnison.com
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From: "Jill Medlyn" <jazzykid@msn.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: RE: Sale of used reference material
Date: Thu, 22 May 97 06:15:55 UT
Message-ID: <UPMAIL13.199705220622380146@msn.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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What do you have to trade related to stain glass?


----------
From: 	Debi Overton
Sent: 	Thursday, May 22, 1997 12:49 AM
To: 	glass@bungi.com
Subject: 	Re: Sale of used reference material

I would also be interested in 'how-to' videos.  Thanks. 
debbi@gunnison.com
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From owner-glass Thu May 22 04:33:56 1997
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X-Path: juno.com!studioone1
From: studioone1@juno.com (Dee l Plott)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: textured cathedrals
Date: Thu, 22 May 1997 07:31:48 EDT
Message-ID: <1997May22.113148.0>
References: <<1997May20.132910.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi,

Textured glass can be a challenge if you try to cut on the rough side. 
Usually the texture is in the back.  When I was teaching glass I used to
tell my students there was no right or wrong side to glass, which really
there isn't.  However, there is any easier side and a harder side to cut.
 In regular translucent or opague glass the shinier side is most often
the front but sometimes there is a much prettier swirl of color in the
back, so I use it instead.  There's no one to say you can't use whatever
side you wish. This is no right or wrong.                 Hope this
helped.   dee
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From owner-glass Thu May 22 07:12:23 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!KrissyMar
From: KrissyMar@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Sale of used reference material
Date: Thu, 22 May 1997 10:10:52 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <1997May22.61052.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

When I was in NH a couple weeks back, I meandered into the Stained Glass shop
I used to frequent. There had been a fairly recent change in ownership and I
was impressed by  all the changes that had taken place.
 
     Well to make it short- They had some videos, of which I inquired about
 purchasing, only to discover that they RENT, not sell them! I was just
floored, I thought it was such a good thing to do. So for a $1.50 per nigh
you can watch a how- to video on a variety of subjects and learn soooooo
much! They really had a good selection of topics and different artists, etc.
Now if only a local shop here would do it!   Krissy
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From owner-glass Thu May 22 07:15:56 1997
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X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: another pricing question
Date: Thu, 22 May 1997 10:12:14 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May22.61214.0>
References: <<1997May21.20558.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

ok i know we all discussed how to priced a finish piece. but does anyone
here have a technique on how to guesstimate a price before it's even
been designed. some sort of method for panels, boxes and lamps. usaully
i can give a good price, but it's difficult to give a good guess.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
 New Pages Added:
 - New Instructional Guides Added!!!
 - The Creative Process
 - How to Find Patterns for Suncatchers
 - Picking Out Glass in the Store
 - 5 New Pictures in the 3-D Catagory
 - 2 New Pictures in the Panel Catagory
 - Updated Shots of The Heart of Atlantis, and Japanese Garden
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From owner-glass Thu May 22 08:29:36 1997
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X-Path: p085.aone.net.au!allcrafts
From: Melanie Dunstan <allcrafts@p085.aone.net.au>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Delphi
Date: Thu, 22 May 1997 11:19:12 +0800
Message-ID: <1997May22.191912.0>
References: <<199705212358.AA27449@lucy.swin.edu.au>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Allcrafts Goods & Services
Precedence: bulk

Hi Andrea, thanks for your message
> 
> Also Melanie, where are you from?  If you are going to teach glass
> in Aust you must have been doing glasswork and would surely know the
> prices we have to pay here?  Or are you moving here from other parts
> of the world.   If I can help with some details I surely will.
> 
Was taught in UK and moved here to Perth Australa 3 years ago. Didn't
think about glass for a while (had lots of supplies that I'd bought in
UK to last me for ages) Recently my local craft group indicated they
wanted someone to teach... which was where this all started...

You said that Delphi have a web site - do you know the URL please?
Thanks in advance Regards Melanie Dunstan
> 
> ----
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From owner-glass Thu May 22 08:37:34 1997
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From: leestat7 <leestat7@home.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Sale of used reference material
Date: Thu, 22 May 1997 11:33:22 -0400
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Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: @Home Network
Precedence: bulk

Yes,

If anyone has video's they would like to resell-please e-mail me a
list.  There are several I am interested in-
Thanks
Lee Boe
leestat7@home.com
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From owner-glass Thu May 22 08:43:18 1997
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From: leestat7 <leestat7@home.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Glass shop video rentals
Date: Thu, 22 May 1997 11:39:16 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May22.73916.0>
References: <<1997May22.61214.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: @Home Network
Precedence: bulk

Great idea,

Glass Crafters and others that are on line here!! How about setting up a
rental sections, like a library check out.  Small deposit, refundable on
return-about $1.50 per day rental.  Then you could try a video you were
thinking of buying.  Might sell more videos-with the try plan.  There
are some that I would like to have for reference and would buy after
watching the rental one.

Lee Boe
Rain-Boe's Creations
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From owner-glass Thu May 22 09:32:55 1997
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From: Melanie Dunstan <allcrafts@p085.aone.net.au>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Sale of used reference material
Date: Fri, 23 May 1997 00:21:32 +0800
Message-ID: <1997May23.82132.0>
References: <<1997May22.61052.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Allcrafts Goods & Services
Precedence: bulk

KrissyMar@aol.com wrote:
> 
> When I was in NH a couple weeks back, I meandered into the Stained Glass shop
> I used to frequent. There had been a fairly recent change in ownership and I
> was impressed by  all the changes that had taken place.
> 
-------------
Hi Krissy could you send me their snail please? Thanks and regards
Melanie Dunstan


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From: StndGlass1@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Glass shop video rentals
Date: Thu, 22 May 1997 13:04:15 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <1997May22.9415.0>
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We have a rental program in our store.  We rent videos, studio space,
grinders (to take home), Odyssey lamp forms, and came benders.  We've found
that there are a lot of people out there who can't afford to buy the
machinery themselves.  That doesn't mean they shouldn't have a chance to use
it!

Jenna Meredith
Meredith Stained Glass

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From owner-glass Thu May 22 10:14:40 1997
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From: Sean Lally <slally@crl.com>
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Subject: Re: Delphi
Date: Thu, 22 May 1997 10:05:31 -0700 (PDT)
Message-ID: <Pine.SUN.3.91.970522100446.16266A-100000@crl.crl.com>
References: <<1997May22.191912.0>>
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On Thu, 22 May 1997, Melanie Dunstan wrote:

> You said that Delphi have a web site - do you know the URL please?

Try http://search.yahoo.com/bin/search?p=delphi+glass

Sean
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From owner-glass Thu May 22 10:23:42 1997
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Subject: Re: Delphi
Date: Thu, 22 May 1997 13:23:15 -0400 (EDT)
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Delphi actually has several web sites, but the one on their catalog is:

http://www.voyager.net/delphiglass


Steph
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From owner-glass Thu May 22 11:39:25 1997
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From: wmunro@mars.ark.com (Wayne Munro)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Glass shop video rentals
Date: Thu, 22 May 1997 10:39:11 -0700
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This sounds like a GREAT IDEA! Keep us posted. Only thing would be is the
$1.50 per day. It would cost a fortune just in the shipping time. (Not
complaining-- just sending back to the drawing board for considerations.)
Any other ideas?? 
....Wayne

>Great idea,
>
>Glass Crafters and others that are on line here!! How about setting up a
>rental sections, like a library check out.  Small deposit, refundable on
>return-about $1.50 per day rental.  ................
>


Wayne Munro 'Snail-Mail'-2960 Suffield Road, Courtenay, B.C. Canada, V9N-3V5
E-Mail Address--wmunro@mars.ark.com
Phone and Fax--(250) 338-5507
Cell--(250) 720-7175


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From owner-glass Thu May 22 12:46:12 1997
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From: suzanne albright <suzy@ComCAT.COM>
To: "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: ATTN: All Philly-Area Bungians
Date: Thu, 22 May 97 15:47:59 -0400
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Hi All,

Please help me, I have forgotten whether the demonstration on plating at 
Warner Crivellaro is this Saturday, May 24, or next Saturday, May 31!

Suzanne


Suzanne Albright
<suzy@comcat.com>

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From owner-glass Thu May 22 13:36:12 1997
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From: Yegnim@aol.com
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Subject: Re: Sale of used reference material
Date: Thu, 22 May 1997 16:35:27 -0400 (EDT)
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From:  Eleanor (yegnim@aol.com)

Please place me on the list also.  Thanks!
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From owner-glass Thu May 22 13:49:41 1997
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From: Yegnim@aol.com
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Subject: Re: Getting Started in the Glass Business
Date: Thu, 22 May 1997 16:48:53 -0400 (EDT)
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Alex,
In response to your question re:  other materials on the glass business, you
might be interested in a 3 part series: video, tape and book entitled," How
to Start a Successful Stained Glass Business" published by The Editors of
Income Opportunity.  They are located in N.Y., NY. Their phone is
212-642-0600.  I think that Sunshine Glassworks carries it also.  Their # is
800-828-7159.  Good Luck!
Eleanor
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From owner-glass Thu May 22 14:48:52 1997
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X-Path: az.stratus.com!charlie
From: Charles Spitzer <charlie@az.stratus.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: glass deterioration
Date: Thu, 22 May 97 14:47:59 -0700
Message-ID: <m0wUfiK-000LiCC@why.az.stratus.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Customer Assistance Center, Stratus Computer, Inc.
Precedence: bulk

an interesting set of posts that were published in rec.crafts.glass that i  
thought would be interesting here.

From: glassguy <glassguy@lamar.ColoState.EDU>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.glass
Subject: glass deterioration
Date: Thu, 22 May 1997 10:46:54 -0600

Steve Adams wrote:

> I'm at work discussing antique glass with a co-worker.  He has the idea
> that glass gets weaker and more brittle with the passage of time.  Also
> that color can be leeched out of glass in sunlight.  I've worked in
> stained glass for about 5 years and hot glass for about 3 and I
> disagree, however I can neither prove nor disprove him.  Does anyone
> have input on this subject?

First a comment about 'proof':  the word 'proof' is reserved exclusively
to the realm of mathematics.  An objective scientist will empirically
'demonstrate' something by experiment, and the demonstration will be
associated with a calculable degree of certainty, but with the exception
of working with mathematical theorems, an empiricist cannot 'prove'
anything.  To contradict this is to resort to dogma, the shallowest of all
epistemological wells.

LEACHING OF GLASS

The physical characteristics of glass (including brittleness) are a
function of its intrinsic structure and composition, neither of which can
be altered in a 'finished piece' without applied heat or alteration of its
chemistry (which would, by definition, be a surface phenomenon).

What is however observed by glaziers is that 'old' sheet glass is more
difficult to successfully break along a score line than fresh glass.  This
is the result of three phenomena, surface hydration and leaching, surface
scratches, and (for lack of a better term) grime.

Hydration: The scoring process crushes the surface of the glass, forming
unstable (high-energy) singly-bonded glass-matrix oxygen atoms.  Water
will hydrogen-bond to these oxygens, stabilizing them, and reducing the
tensional forces which would otherwise additively combine with the applied
flexural force during break-out.  The result is a crack that 'wanders' off
the score line -- a bad break.  Is this the result of 'deterioration'?
Yes.  Has the glass become more brittle?  The micro-layer of deteriorated
glass is probably more brittle than the bulk, but this effect upon the
physical characteristics of the underlying glass is negligable.  Has the
glass become weaker?  If, by weakness, is meant a tendency to resist
fracture, then curiously it has become *stonger*!  You may have noticed
that you must apply more force to break-out old glass.

Surface scratches: Glass requires two things for fracture propagation, a
surface defect and tension.  The score line is a surface defect, but so
are the miscellaneous surface scratches on old glass.  Especially if a
surface scratch intersects the score line at about a 50 degree angle
relative to the axis of fracture propagation, it's likely that the
fracture will leave the score line.

Grime: The cutter will ride up and over grime particles creating scoreline
discontinuities (gaps).  Upon break-out, the fracture will continue along
the score-line to a discontinuity, and then veer off at an approximately
50 degree angle from the perpendicular of the score line (i.e. it
'mysteriously' wanders off to one side).

Leaching of color: Color can be either in or on glass.  Applied pigments
(as pate du verre)  can be dissolved and degraded upon extended exposure
to solvents (including water). Pigmented varnishes are very succeptible to
removal. Pigment beneath the surface is effectively 'locked' into the
structure of the glass and cannot be leached-out.  It can however be
altered by the activation of color centers (covered in part three).

Deterioration: Glass 'deteriorates' typically by one of three methods:
leaching of the alkaline metal flux ions (alkali attack, as by submersion
in water), corrosion of the glassy matrix (acid attack, as by HF) and
devitrification (covered in part two).

Alkalai attack: Leaching is a surface phenomenon commonly seen in old
pieces dug up from the ground or retrieved from bodies of water.  It may
appear as either a milky surface layer or as an irridescent sheen.  Unless
kept in a continuously damp environment, it tends not to occur on, for
example, windows.  Intrinsically an ion-exchange process, the leachant
must be continuously rinsed away and replaced for the process to continue
to any extent.  Continuous bombardment by rain may result in apparent
leaching, but upon closer examination it may be seen actually to be a
milky coating *on* the glass, and not true leaching.

Acid attack: If exposed to an acidic reagent capable of breaking the
silica (Si-O) bond, the glass is said to be corroded.  In practice,
hydrofluoric acid (HF) is used for this purpose.  There has recently been
some work indicating that the humic acids (found in soil) are also capable
of corroding glass, but this last work is tentative and not fully accepted
as being rigorously demonstrated.

DEVITRIFICATION: what is it, and how does it happen?


A glass is by definition a liquid at all temperatures.  Compositionally a
typical glass consists of the 'glass (or network) formers'  (SiO2 and
B2O3), fluxes (also called alkaline metals, K2O and Na2O), and the network
(or matrix) modifying alkaline earths (CaO, BaO, PbO, ZnO).

Other oxides capable of glass network formation include GeO2, P2O5, As2O5,
As2O3, Sb2O3, and to a limited degree V2O5, ZrO2 and Bi2O3.  The oxides of
Ti, Zn, Pb, Al, Th and Be can be included in varying concentrations, but
will not on their own, yield a glass.  These, and other oxides that will
not form a glass (including Sc, La, Y, Sn, Ga, In, Mg, Li, Sr, Cd, Rb, Hg,
and Cs) are used as network modifiers.

Within the glassy matrix there are bridging oxygen ions and non-bridging
oxygen ions (which ionically bond to Li+, Na+, K+ or Ca++ in a typical
glass).  Technically, glass is a metal oxide polymer with SiO2 being the
principal monomer of all commercial glasses.  In three dimensions, this
polymer can be depicted as a random 'cobweb' of silicon ions each bonded
to either three or four oxygen atoms.  Progressing along any branch of the
polymer chain we see Si-O-Si-O-Si-O-Si-O with an occasional matrix
modifier ion (as Pb, lead) substituting for a Si.  Branching from each Si
will be another similar chain of O-Si-O-Si-etc.  Occasionally, a chain
will terminate at a non-bridging oxygen, which has a strong negative
charge.  This oxygen will be protruding into a microscopic cavity in the
glassy matrix within which resides a counterbalancing, positively charged
alkaline metal flux ion (as Na, sodium).

A pure SiO2 glass is called fused quartz.  It can be manufactured from
rock quartz crystals, and has no flux nor matrix modifiers within it.
Because of the uninterrupted strength of the Si-O bonds it yields a very
high temperature softening ('hard') glass.  Occasional interruptions of
the Si-O matrix with modifying ions (with weaker metal-O bonds) will lower
the viscosity profile of ('soften') the glass.  The more alkaline earth
oxides added to the glass, the more the viscosity profile is depressed.

This is glass when everything 'goes right'.  When glass devitrifies, it
doesn't necessarily revert to its former, solid, crystalline constituents.
In many instances a devitrified glass will not be chemically altered, but
rather it will crystallize into its ceramic analogue.

ACTIVATION OF COLOR CENTERS


Why do some pieces of glass change color over time?  In a word, it's
called 'activation of color centers'. The details are quite complex, but
it has to do with an alteration of the orbital distribution of
specifically the valence (outermost) electrons which causes the atom to
absorb photons of a different frequency (color)  after the process than
before.

What we call the reflected and transmitted (as opposed to emitted)
'color' of something is the result of the outermost shell of electrons,
called the valence shell of electrons, which surround atoms.  'White'
light is actually a mixture of photons of many different colors.  Color is
a function of wavelength which is a description of the energy of a photon.
The valence shell of an atom, although conventionally considered as
composed of up to eight electrons, actually behaves as a singular 'thing',
and thus can resonate with phota of certain energies.  This interaction or
resonance is often described as 'absorption' of the photon by an atom,
which causes the valence shell to become 'pumped' to a higher energy
'level'.

Let's work with an example:  Let's assume that we have a 'white' light
beam composed of red, blue and yellow phota (the primary colors). Direct
this beam onto a puddle of red anthracine dye.  Anthracine dyes in general
have tri-cyclic 'aromatic' structures which are capable of resonating with
many discreet spectra of frequencies, which is to say that by slight
modifications of their molecular structures the valence shells of their
constituent carbon atoms can be altered, which results in the different
anthracine dyes appearing as different colors.  Let's select a red one.
In this example the blue and yellow photons are captured by the dye
molecule, and the red photons are scattered (reflected), some of which
come to our eyes, and we see the puddle of dye as 'red'.  If we put the
puddle of dye on a clear film, the red photons will also be seen to have
passed through (transmitted).

Now, let's apply this to a chunk of glass.  The materials which are added
to glass as pigments are selected because their valence shell electrons
are able of slectively absorbing photons of certain frequencies (colors).
Cobaltic oxide, for example, will absorb red and yellow, but not blue,
thus cobalt glass is blue.  Transparent glasses in general are a mixture
of alkaline and transition metal oxides, most of which are selected
precisely because they *won't* interact with visible light.  Put such a
glass in either a high neutron-flux or a high energy X-ray environment,
and they will 'become colored'.  This is because the glass has been
fundamentally altered.  Let's take these processes one at a time.

Neutron capture:

An atom consists of a nucleus composed of protons and neutrons, surrounded
by one or more shells of electrons.  The outermost of these is called the
valence shell, and is responsible for what are loosely called the
'dielectric' characteristics of a material.  Two characteristics of note
here are the interatomic bonding of atoms, and the absorption of photons.
As will be seen, these two characteristics are causitive of some pretty
far-reaching and seemingly unrelated effects.

If you put a material, in this case a piece of clear glass, into a high
neutron flux environment, some of the neutrons will be of a low enough
energy (what is called 'attenuated', which is a description of their
kinetic energy -- their 'speed') that one or more of them will be captured
by (they will 'stick to') the nucleus of an atom.  This is how 'isotopes'
are created.  In some cases what is created is a 'stable' isotope which
will have no effect upon the dielectric properties in question.  In other
cases, a 'metastable' or 'unstable' isotope is created, in which case the
isotope will 'decay', usually by a process called 'beta decay', although
'alpha decay' is also possible.

To understand these processes, it will be necessary to understand that
there is a big difference between what is 'seen' and what has 'happened'.
What is seen (in a 'cloud chamber') is that things (alpha and beta
particles) have come whizzing out of the target material.  What has
happened is that the target material has undergone 'transmutation', which
is to say that it has actually turned into some different 'stuff'.  What
we're talking about here is the nature of what is commonly called
'radioactivity'.  The beta particle is actually an electron, and the alpha
particle is two protons and two neutrons in a cluster; what is otherwise
known as a helium nucleus (this is, by the way, where almost *all* helium
in the earth comes from, the alpha decay of uranium and thorium).  In
alpha decay, a 'hunk' of the nucleus 'breaks' away and goes flying off. In
beta decay, a single neutron will 'crack' apart into a proton and an
electron (and a neutrino).  The proton stays with the target atom, but the
electron (and the neutrino) go whizzing off.  In both of these decays, the
target atom has been transmuted into a completely different element, with
completely different dielectric characteristics, one of which may be what
we call color.

X-ray activation:

An X-ray is a very short wavelength, very high energy photon, which can so
excite an atom's valence electrons that electrons are completely stripped
away.  This 'pumping' effect is significant enough that the spectrum of
incident phota with which the valence shell interacts changes.  In the
case of clear glass, the change is from non-interactive to interactive,
thus the glass becomes 'colored'.  What usually happens is that the
irridiated atom becomes a radical (a chemical as opposed to a nuclear
change) and will absorb phota.  The liberated electron is also liable to
capture by some other atom, making yet another radical.

It's worth noting that this radical formation process by electron capture
also can occur with the beta particle (an electron) in the nuclear process
described above.

Now that the process of color center activation has been described, its
reversal can be discussed.

Glass, even at room temperature, is a liquid.  The interatomic bonds are
weak and constantly breaking and reforming.  These bonds are, in effect,
an interaction of (or, sharing of) the valence electrons of adjacent atoms
(for example, in a length of copper wire, the individual electrons at one
end of the wire will, in theory, eventually migrate to the other end of
the wire, even without the application of an outside force).  The
*structure* of a material (the interatomic bonding) places physical
constraints upon the valence electrons.  Therefore, if you activate a
color center (by any means) the alteration in the valence shell will be
either stable (unchanging with time) or metastable (will change gradually
with time). The stronger the interatomic structure (or 'lattice' in the
case of a true crystal which is a solid) the more stable the change.  The
change can, however, be reversed by weakening the interatomic bonds which
will allow the formation of new, lower energy bonds (atoms will break
their initial bonds and reform bonds with other neighbors).  This is done
by the application of heat.  In practice, the temperature which an
amorphous material (such as a glass) must reach to achieve this is
*defined* as its annealing temperature.  Therefore, simply annealing a
piece of glass will deactivate the color centers.

Having worked extensively with researchers who conduct experiments which
activate color centers by both of these means, I have frequently had to
deactivate color centers.  The unexpected consequence I mentioned is that
the activation of color centers also results in the formation of strained
interatomic bonds in the piece, and unless the piece is annealed, it will
fracture!  As a rule, the more the piece is colored, the more strain the
piece is under, and the more it needs to be relieved by annealing.  Note
that the color doesn't 'cause' the strain, they are two entirely separate
issues sharing the same cause.

Finally, it's worth pointing out that this color center activation is now
so well understood that unusually colored gemstones are created by the
process.  In some cases, semiprecious irridiated materials are then sold
as precious stones, and the difference can only be distinguished by a
professional gemologist.


Michael Olsen
Senior Scientific Glassblower

Copyright 1997, Michael Olsen <RDGLASS@juno.com.us>
Reproduced here with the permission of the author.
Unauthorized replication for profit is prohibited.

---
Charles Spitzer
charlie@az.stratus.com
Customer Assistance Center
Stratus Computer, Inc.
Phoenix, AZ
----
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X-Path: mars.ark.com!wmunro
From: wmunro@mars.ark.com (Wayne Munro)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Glass shop video rentals
Date: Thu, 22 May 1997 14:53:39 -0700
Message-ID: <199705222153.OAA26708@mars.ark.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Jenna.....Could you please E-mail me the costs etc. Is it possible to rent
the forms etc. living in Canada?......thanks a bunch....Wayne

>We have a rental program in our store.  We rent videos, studio space,
>grinders (to take home), Odyssey lamp forms, and came benders. 
...Jenna Meredith
>Meredith Stained Glass
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>

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X-Path: gunnison.com!debbi
From: Debi Overton <debbi@gunnison.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Glass shop video rentals
Date: Thu, 22 May 1997 18:43:58 -0600
Message-ID: <1997May22.124358.0>
References: <<1997May22.73916.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

leestat7 wrote:
> 
> Great idea,
> 
> Glass Crafters and others that are on line here!! How about setting up a
> rental sections, like a library check out.  Small deposit, refundable on
> return-about $1.50 per day rental. 

I think this is a GREAT idea.  Living in the boonies as I do, this would
be a great help!

-Debi
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From: Chris Orowitz <glashack@iglou.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: ATTN: All Philly-Area Bungians
Date: Thu, 22 May 1997 20:51:46 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May22.165146.0>
References: <<199705221945.PAA02642@uz.comcat.com>>
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Organization: The Glass Shack
Precedence: bulk

Yes, please I would also like more info on this.  What type of plating
are we talking about? I am planning on being in that area between June
13-23 and always make a point of going there.  Spend way to much money
though.  Is there anyway to get a list of the demos that will be going
on?
Chris Orowitz
glashack@iglou.com


suzanne albright wrote:
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> Please help me, I have forgotten whether the demonstration on plating at
> Warner Crivellaro is this Saturday, May 24, or next Saturday, May 31!
> 
> Suzanne
> 
> Suzanne Albright
> <suzy@comcat.com>
> 
> ----
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From owner-glass Thu May 22 18:32:42 1997
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From: "Hilary A. Bobker" <hilary@voicenet.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Re: ATTN: All Philly-Area Bungians
Date: Thu, 22 May 1997 20:33:40 +0000
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> Please help me, I have forgotten whether the demonstration on plating at
> Warner Crivellaro is this Saturday, May 24, or next Saturday, May 31!


Hi, Suzanne,

The demo on overlay is May 31, next Saturday. W-C is interested in a
head count so that they can be prepared for us. Can you let me know how
many of you are going so I can get a total to them? Thanks.

See you sooooon!
Hilary
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From owner-glass Thu May 22 18:51:38 1997
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From: "Hilary A. Bobker" <hilary@voicenet.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: ATTN: All Philly-Area Bungians
Date: Thu, 22 May 1997 20:52:57 +0000
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Organization: HABit Fashion Services
Precedence: bulk

> Yes, please I would also like more info on this.  What type of plating
> are we talking about? I am planning on being in that area between June
> 13-23 and always make a point of going there....

Hi, Chris,

May 31st Angelo is going to demo overlay techniques such as the ones
used by R.N. Oddy ( http://www.servtech.com/public/rnoddy/index.html ).
Every Saturday from 11 to 4 he will answer any question and/or demo any
machine that is possible. The "topic of the day" doesn't seem to have a
schedule, and we only know about the 31st because we asked for it in
advance and a bunch of us are going to Allentown special for that demo.

Whatever Angelo is into the day you go will be informative and
entertaining. Allow extra time for hanging out in the warehouse to
watch!

As for spending money at W-C, it seems to be the consensous that it is
appropriate to bring the papers for the house and the first born. There
is just way too much "must have" stuff there.<g>

Sorry you won't be there on the 31st.
Take care,
Hilary
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From owner-glass Thu May 22 19:19:32 1997
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From: Chris Orowitz <glashack@iglou.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: ATTN: All Philly-Area Bungians
Date: Thu, 22 May 1997 22:18:16 -0400
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Hilary A. Bobker wrote:
> 
> Whatever Angelo is into the day you go will be informative and
> entertaining. Allow extra time for hanging out in the warehouse to
> watch!
> As for spending money at W-C, it seems to be the consensous that it is
> appropriate to bring the papers for the house and the first born. There
> is just way too much "must have" stuff there.<g>
> 
> Sorry you won't be there on the 31st.
> Take care,
> Hilary

Hi Hilary,
Boy do I know what you are saying!!! Usually when we (husband goes too)
go to W-C it takes the whole day.  To many things to see and then you
have to decide what you can afford to buy and what has to wait till next
time.  Everytime I leave there my checkbook is empty.

Wish I could be there for the overlay demo. I would like to know how it
is done.  Please take lots of notes.
Chris
glashack@iglou.com
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From owner-glass Fri May 23 03:56:18 1997
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From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@computer.net>
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> an interesting set of posts that were published in rec.crafts.glass that i  
> thought would be interesting here.

Very interesting material. Thanks for posting it.

Albert
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From owner-glass Fri May 23 05:08:48 1997
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From: artist@busprod.com (LJ Maas)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: W-C field trip
Date: Fri, 23 May 1997 07:14:58 -0500
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Hilary...
First of all, I think you people are incredibly lucky to live that close to
Warner's! Secondly, Will someone make a mini report to the rest of the
group (those of us left behind)on the techniques described? I know it may
be hard to translate it all into words, but it would be great to have in
the archives!
thanks, LJ
  ****************************************************************
LJ Maas: artist@busprod.com
ART WITH ATTITUDE Stained Glass Design
"Unique Stained Glass Creations"
<http://www.art-with-attitude.com/glass/artglass.html>

OVER THE RAINBOW Webpage Design & Consulting
<http://www.art-with-attitude.com/rainbow.html>
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From owner-glass Fri May 23 05:54:10 1997
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X-Path: artisticglassusa.com!studio
From: studio@artisticglassusa.com (Artistic Glass of Atlanta)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: another pricing question
Date: Fri, 23 May 1997 08:57:46 -0400
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At 10:12 AM 22/5/97, M. Savad wrote:
>ok i know we all discussed how to priced a finish piece. but does anyone
>here have a technique on how to guesstimate a price before it's even
>been designed. some sort of method for panels, boxes and lamps. usaully
>i can give a good price, but it's difficult to give a good guess.
>
>---Mike Savad

Mike,

        I have had great success with using a square footage pricing system
for panels.  You have to uses your own judgement on what you want to charge
per square foot.  I normally get about $55 a square foot on simple straight
line designed stuff.  I get up to $500 a square foot for very detailed work
like the columneddesigned window on my website at:
www.artisticglassusa.com.
        For lamps I find it hard to command the same value, even thought
they often represent more work.  I guess it comes from the percieved value
of the customer on the physical size of the project.  They sometimes
percieve that smaller sized items should cost less than a large window,
although in many cases the time to produce it is the same.
        A good guess on estimating the cost for small things like boxes and
lamps should come from the time it takes to produce it.  If you take time
on current projects to keep a log sheet for each project and clock in and
out whenever you work on it, this will give you great information.  After a
few projects, you can compare notes and get a good estimate of the time
factor involved with each one.
        Then comes the big question, what do you personally consider your
time worth?  (Don't forget to add in material costs too).
        I hope this helps.  Best of luck to you !

                                Sincerely,

                                Michael Delaware

www.artisticglassusa.com
Studio@artisticglassusa.com
Atlanta, Georgia USA
Phone: (770) 992-2900
Fax: (770) 518-8686


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From owner-glass Fri May 23 06:07:19 1997
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From: artist@busprod.com (LJ Maas)
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Re: Getting Started in the Glass Business
Date: Fri, 23 May 1997 08:13:44 -0500
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>Alex,
>In response to your question re:  other materials on the glass business, you
>might be interested in a 3 part series: video, tape and book entitled," How
>to Start a Successful Stained Glass Business" published by The Editors of
>Income Opportunity.  They are located in N.Y., NY. Their phone is
>212-642-0600.  I think that Sunshine Glassworks carries it also.  Their # is
>800-828-7159.  Good Luck!
>Eleanor

Sunshine Glassworks does carry this series! A 60 minute video, audio
casette, and 50 page book are $19.95 plus shipping and handling. It's
available via their webpage at:
<http://www.sunshineglass.com>

hope this helps, LJ
  ****************************************************************
LJ Maas: artist@busprod.com
ART WITH ATTITUDE Stained Glass Design
"Unique Stained Glass Creations"
<http://www.art-with-attitude.com/glass/artglass.html>

OVER THE RAINBOW Webpage Design & Consulting
<http://www.art-with-attitude.com/rainbow.html>
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From owner-glass Fri May 23 06:14:50 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!StndGlass1
From: StndGlass1@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Glass shop video rentals
Date: Fri, 23 May 1997 09:14:16 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <1997May23.51416.0>
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The rental costs are different by item.  If you let me know what you are
interested in, I'd be happy to e-mail them to you.  

You can rent from anywhere, however if you aren't local, you would need to
pay for shipping costs.

Jenna Meredith
Meredith Stained Glass
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From owner-glass Fri May 23 06:50:27 1997
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X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: "INTERNET:glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Re: Making Bevels on the Bevel Max
Date: Fri, 23 May 1997 09:49:32 -0400
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Message text written by INTERNET:glass@bungi.com
>The process is quick and easy to do
(when we do demos people with no beveling experience quickly create their=

own bevels).<

I was one of those people with no beveling experience who tried this Beve=
l
Max at a demo.  Diamond Tech is right...I was able to create my own small=

square bevel in about 8 minutes using the four different grits.  I was
pretty impressed at how nice and smooth the finished polished sides turne=
d
out.   It was pretty wet work though.  Water going everywhere, but I gues=
s
that's the nature of the beast.  No inside curve bevels.  Not bad for
making your own bevels, but I'll probably stick to purchasing bevel sets.=


=2E..Christie
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From owner-glass Fri May 23 06:51:09 1997
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From: "Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: "[unknown]" <GLASS@BUNGI.COM>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: textured cathedrals
Date: Fri, 23 May 1997 09:49:27 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May23.54927.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

You can use the front or the back of any type of glass, depending upon th=
e
effect you are trying to achieve.  I also love to use that textured clear=

"ice" or the irridized version, for lots of my work.  I've used it mostly=

with the texture towards the back, so that you get more of a 3-D effect
with the texture as you look through the glass.  But my students love to
flip the glass around and use the textured side towards the viewer.  Just=

remember to reverse the pattern when you are cutting out the piece when y=
ou
want to have the 'back' side showing towards the viewer.

=2E..Christie
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From: "Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: "[unknown]" <GLASS@BUNGI.COM>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Re: Delphi
Date: Fri, 23 May 1997 09:49:40 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May23.54940.0>
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Message text written by Melanie Dunstan
>You said that Delphi have a web site - do you know the URL please?
Thanks in advance Regards Melanie Dunstan<

Try one of these:
http://www.voyager.net/delphiglass
http://www.delphiglass.com

=2E..Christie
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From owner-glass Fri May 23 06:51:12 1997
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From: "Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: "INTERNET:glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Getting Started in the Glass Business
Date: Fri, 23 May 1997 09:49:38 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May23.54938.0>
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Precedence: bulk

Message text written by INTERNET:glass@bungi.com
>I was hoping to find more information about
understanding the glass business and how to develop a business plan.<

I purchased a set of word processing templates called (how's this for
originality?) "Business Planner".  Loaded them into my WordPerfect softwa=
re
package, and then just filled out the information inside the template. =

Took some time, but it was very thorough and helped me focus on what I
wanted to do.  You might want to do the same.  I got this package through=

shareware on CompuServe, but I'm sure there are other shareware places on=

the INTERNET you can go.

I also purchased that "This Business of Glass" book, and it has proved ve=
ry
helpful, particularly in the legal area about getting all set up with the=

business license, tax resale license, incorporation, etc.

=2E..Christie
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From owner-glass Fri May 23 06:51:13 1997
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From: "Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: "INTERNET:glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Re: Kilns.
Date: Fri, 23 May 1997 09:49:35 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May23.54935.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Message text written by INTERNET:glass@bungi.com
>Haven't heard about Glass Lovers Weekend at Wheaton.  Is that in N.J. =

There
is a Wheaton Glass about 25 miles from me.  If that is the correct place,=

please advise when in June this is to take place. I would love to go sinc=
e
it
is close by.
Thanks for any info you may have.
Bubstah<

Wheaton Village: 1501 Glasstown Rd., Millville, NJ 08332 1-800-998-4552 o=
r
(609) 852-6800
http://www.wheatonvillage.org   email: mail@wheatonvillage.org

Don't know about this Glass Lovers Weekend in June, but do know abuot the=

Aug 8-10 Wheaton Village Craft Fair.

=2E..Christie
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From owner-glass Fri May 23 09:07:09 1997
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X-Path: tchden.org!gonzales.teresa
From: "Gonzales, Diane" <gonzales.teresa@tchden.org>
To: bungi group <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Pricing
Date: Fri, 23 May 1997 10:05:00 -0600
Message-ID: <1997May23.450.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Another question for you all regarding pricing.

Does anyone add in anything for tool usage.  I'm think this would need
to be a small $ figure.  I myself have only been using my grinder and
soldering iron for 1 year so I really have no idea how long they'll keep
going.  I guess that's another question for you  "long-timers."  The
iron and the grinder are the only costly tools I have right now, but I
would eventually like to have a Bevel-Max and  a few other things.

Thanks everyone for the very useful info I read here everyday.  I
really enjoy it.

My best to all for a great summer!

Diane Gonzales
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From owner-glass Fri May 23 09:25:49 1997
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X-Path: mars.ark.com!wmunro
From: wmunro@mars.ark.com (Wayne Munro)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Making Bevels on the Bevel Max
Date: Fri, 23 May 1997 08:25:56 -0700
Message-ID: <199705231525.IAA10027@mars.ark.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Sounds very interesting. How much are they and where can they be
'mail-ordered' from?
Also, any comments on the Glastar Project-o-scope? Good, Bad, indifferent.
(I'me looking for something to help with patterns but don't want to spend
'big bucks' as I probably wouldn't use it enough to justify large expenditure.
Please post on board or 'E-mail' me directly. Thanks in advance..Wayne


Message text written by INTERNET:glass@bungi.com
>>The process is quick and easy to do
>(when we do demos people with no beveling experience quickly create their=
>
>own bevels).<
>
>I was one of those people with no beveling experience who tried this Beve=
>l
>Max at a demo.  Diamond Tech is right...........


Wayne Munro 'Snail-Mail'-2960 Suffield Road, Courtenay, B.C. Canada, V9N-3V5
E-Mail Address--wmunro@mars.ark.com
Phone and Fax--(250) 338-5507
Cell--(250) 720-7175


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From owner-glass Fri May 23 10:52:18 1997
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X-Path: westinghouse.com!draggj
From: "Drag, Gloria J." <draggj@westinghouse.com>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: Those who a Warner C. bound..
Date: Fri, 23 May 1997 13:44:31 -0400
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Hi,
Could I impose and maybe  ask you to ask Angelo  a question  on plating
for me.. When  tried to plate, I would at times have moisture build up
between the plating.. I tried the slightness amount of flux, because I
thought too much flux would cause it.. 
Thanks in advance 
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From owner-glass Fri May 23 13:38:16 1997
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X-Path: sol.racsa.co.cr!rlaval
From: Richard LaVal <rlaval@sol.racsa.co.cr>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: another pricing question
Date: Fri, 23 May 1997 14:32:20 -0600 (CST)
Message-ID: <1.5.4.16.19970519015433.261f4112@sol.racsa.co.cr>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Mike;
        I started keeping a log, and that helped alot!  Now I can pretty
closely calculate the real cost of materials, add 25% for hard to calculate
stuff like electricity and new soldering tips etc...  Then I know more or
less how many pieces i can do an hour, and by then I usually have a pretty
good idea of what the customer wants as a design.  Then at this point, I
have them sign the contract, mine has a ball park figure of between ________
and ________ to be firmed up as soon as the design is approved.  They then
pay me a little and I design it.  As soon as the design is approved, I ask
for the remaining $ to make it up to 50% of the total which I now tell them
exactly.  I know how much I expect to earn an hour, which I didn't to begin
with.  Most of my  contracts have been with friends, so this both helps and
hinders.... Anyway, so far this has worked for me.  Hope it helps you.  If
you want a copy of my  contract, give a "yell" although it is  very much
like one that was shared awhile ago online.  Meg


At 10:12 AM 5/22/97 -0400, you wrote:
>ok i know we all discussed how to priced a finish piece. but does anyone
>here have a technique on how to guesstimate a price before it's even
>been designed. some sort of method for panels, boxes and lamps. usaully
>i can give a good price, but it's difficult to give a good guess.

Richard and Meg LaVal
apdo. 24-5655
Monteverde
COSTA RICA
tel: 506 645 5052

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From owner-glass Fri May 23 19:19:35 1997
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X-Path: voicenet.com!hilary
From: "Hilary A. Bobker" <hilary@voicenet.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: W-C field trip
Date: Fri, 23 May 1997 21:20:38 +0000
Message-ID: <1997May23.212038.0>
References: <<3.0.1.32.19970523071458.006ad648@busprod.com>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: HABit Fashion Services
Precedence: bulk

> ...Will someone make a mini report to the rest of the
> group (those of us left behind)on the techniques described? 

I'm going to try my best to do so, and maybe with the help of everyone
who is going along, we might be able to get some of it right!<g>

Hilary
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From owner-glass Sat May 24 02:03:37 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!Yegnim
From: Yegnim@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: another pricing question
Date: Sat, 24 May 1997 05:02:52 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <1997May24.1252.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Meg,
I have only been on-line a couple of months.  Your written estimate sounds
good to me.  Tell me, how much of a variation is there between the $______and
$_______  in your estimates?  Just a ballpark figure would be nice to know.
 Also, could you e-mail me a copy of your contract?
Eleanor
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From owner-glass Sat May 24 02:10:00 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!Yegnim
From: Yegnim@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: W-C field trip
Date: Sat, 24 May 1997 05:09:32 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <1997May24.1932.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hilary,
Due to the many requests for precise info you have gotten re: W-C trip,
perhaps you should consider taping the session if you own a small tape
recorder.  When networking for business I took notes and taped parts of the
session.  I was amazed at the "gaps" the tape filled in, when compiling my
notes.  Just thought you might want to consider this possibility.
Have fun!
Eleanor
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From owner-glass Sat May 24 04:13:28 1997
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From: "Hilary A. Bobker" <hilary@voicenet.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: W-C field trip
Date: Sat, 24 May 1997 06:14:57 +0000
Message-ID: <1997May24.61457.0>
References: <<1997May24.1932.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: HABit Fashion Services
Precedence: bulk

> perhaps you should consider taping the session...

Eleanor-

Good idea. I'll have to root around and see if I can find a tape
recorder. I already got permission to take pictures, which should help
the explaination process.

Are you sure you can't switch days with someone and come with us? sigh.

Hilary
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From owner-glass Sat May 24 05:39:44 1997
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X-Path: juno.com!kdeck
From: kdeck@juno.com (k a s)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Sale of used reference material
Date: Sat, 24 May 1997 08:19:47 PST
Message-ID: <1997May24.161947.0>
References: <<UPMAIL13.199705220434320865@msn.com>>>
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I'm another who would be interseted in used 'how-to' videos.  
Regards,
kdeck@juno.com
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From owner-glass Sat May 24 06:10:04 1997
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X-Path: sol.racsa.co.cr!rlaval
From: Richard LaVal <rlaval@sol.racsa.co.cr>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Pricing
Date: Sat, 24 May 1997 07:04:27 -0600 (CST)
Message-ID: <1.5.4.16.19970523055536.1b9fb7e8@sol.racsa.co.cr>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi Diane,
        I am relatively new also, but what I do is cost out everything that
I can, and then add 25%  for the iron and grinder and things.  Actually I
think that soon I will have a feel for how long a grinder bit lasts me.
        Incidentally folks, the glass place in San Jose, Costa Rica, had a
100 W iron, made in Taiwan was all it said, no brand.  Only cost $12 so
decided to risk it.  I love it!  Maybe it is just that it heats hotter,
having only used 80W ones, and had to switch back and forth between two to
keep them hot....  Meg

At 10:05 AM 5/23/97 -0600, you wrote:
>Another question for you all regarding pricing.
>
>Does anyone add in anything for tool usage.  I'm think this would need
>to be a small $ figure.  I myself have only been using my grinder and
>soldering iron for 1 year so I really have no idea how long they'll keep
>going.  I guess that's another question for you  "long-timers."  The
>iron and the grinder are the only costly tools I have right now, but I
>would eventually like to have a Bevel-Max and  a few other things.
>
>Thanks everyone for the very useful info I read here everyday.  I
>really enjoy it.
>
>My best to all for a great summer!
>
>Diane Gonzales
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
>
Richard and Meg LaVal
apdo. 24-5655
Monteverde
COSTA RICA
tel: 506 645 5052

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From owner-glass Sat May 24 07:18:20 1997
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X-Path: kwic.com!mnvve3
From: Garry McKenna <mnvve3@kwic.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: kilns
Date: Sat, 24 May 1997 10:16:30 -0400
Message-ID: <1.5.4.32.19970524141630.0067f044@mail.kwic.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Melanie:

Yes, I can see where you could have some fun with this paint, I originally
thought of jazzing up some blah bathroom tiles but havn't gotten around to
it yet. It won't last 1000 years but there are a lot of fun applications.  I
bought it in Micheal's in Canada, this is a big chain of hobby/craft
supplies on both sides of the border.  I don't know where that would leave
you but you could write them. The stuff comes in 45 different colours in 2
oz. bottles and it sample kits of 8 colours in tiny 5ml. containers.  It is
called Delta CeramDecor PermEnamel Paint.  They can be reached at PermEnamel
Projects, Delta,  2550 Pellissier Place,  Whittier, CA  90601 - 1505.
If you end up having problems, just get in touch with me, I wouldn't mind
shipping some off to you.

Linda

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From owner-glass Sat May 24 07:45:15 1997
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X-Path: mail.island.net!seaspray
From: seaspray@mail.island.net (Carol Swann)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: W-C field trip
Date: Sat, 24 May 1997 07:44:46 -0700
Message-ID: <199705241444.HAA22112@norm.island.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

>Due to the many requests for precise info you have gotten re: W-C trip,

Hilary...

I wonder if you could approach W-C about posting a fact sheet or something
to the group on the techniques they present??

Cheers

Carol
Synergy Glass & Creative

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From owner-glass Sat May 24 10:04:38 1997
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X-Path: worldnet.att.net!summit-stained-glass
From: Mike  Peck <summit-stained-glass@worldnet.att.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Pat Kelley, Ft Hood, Tx
Date: Sat, 24 May 1997 17:03:22 +0000
Message-ID: <1997May24.17322.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Pat,

Thanks for your phone call yesterday.  I found some literature from the
glass manfrs that has more info on Saturday glass, uncat and T glass.  Send
your fax number and I'll send you a copy.

Mike Peck
Summit Stained Glass

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From owner-glass Sat May 24 10:16:45 1997
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From: Garry McKenna <mnvve3@kwic.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: swan
Date: Sat, 24 May 1997 13:15:03 -0400
Message-ID: <1.5.4.32.19970524171503.00667d30@mail.kwic.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Bonnie!

Glad you received the pattern in good time. I have no idea where it came
from or how long I've had it, but after looking at it for a couple of days,
I decided that it was certainly worth making, so I spent part of the
week-end making it. It turned out very well!
I wouldn't mind a trade - how about a stepping stone pattern?  I have been
doing some and am always looking for new ideas.
Have a good holiday week-end,  ours was last week-end and the weather was lousy!
Linda

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From owner-glass Sat May 24 10:43:55 1997
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X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Hakko Soldering Irons
Date: Sat, 24 May 1997 13:39:54 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May24.93954.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

ok i've finally decided on what iron i'm going to get. though i have a
question to any of you who either own or sell Hakko irons. 

there are 2 irons the first is:

Hakko 85 watt, it's the more expensive of the two, it says that it idles
at 799 degrees.

Hakko 60 watt, a bit cheaper and it has a 1000 degree tip. 

now the question is, why is the top one more expensive then the one that
get's hotter? i guess it has something to do with the heat regulator but
i'm not sure. i'll probably go with the higher wattage one, they both
look like ceramic element irons. also how does the tip work? the screw
on section looks like it's in the back of the iron. is the tip seperate
from the heater unit? or is it one solid piece like the unger? 

i'll probably get it from delphi, or a local store depending on who can
give the lowest price (since my first time buyer of the year certifacate
expired a while ago). 

also why is the 60 w iron grounded, but the other iron is'nt? i never
heard, really, of any iron needing to be grounded.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
 New Pages Added:
 - New Instructional Guides Added!!!
 - The Creative Process
 - How to Find Patterns for Suncatchers
 - Picking Out Glass in the Store
 - 5 New Pictures in the 3-D Catagory
 - 2 New Pictures in the Panel Catagory
 - Updated Shots of The Heart of Atlantis, and Japanese Garden
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From owner-glass Sat May 24 10:44:42 1997
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X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Pricing
Date: Sat, 24 May 1997 13:27:22 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May24.92722.0>
References: <<1.5.4.16.19970523055536.1b9fb7e8@sol.racsa.co.cr>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Richard LaVal wrote:
> 
> Hi Diane,
>         I am relatively new also, but what I do is cost out everything that
> I can, and then add 25%  for the iron and grinder and things.  Actually I
> think that soon I will have a feel for how long a grinder bit lasts me.
>         Incidentally folks, the glass place in San Jose, Costa Rica, had a
> 100 W iron, made in Taiwan was all it said, no brand.  Only cost $12 so
> decided to risk it.  I love it!  Maybe it is just that it heats hotter,
> having only used 80W ones, and had to switch back and forth between two to
> keep them hot....  Meg
> 
> At 10:05 AM 5/23/97 -0600, you wrote:
> >Another question for you all regarding pricing.
> >
> >Does anyone add in anything for tool usage.  I'm think this would need
> >to be a small $ figure.  I myself have only been using my grinder and
> >soldering iron for 1 year so I really have no idea how long they'll keep
> >going.  I guess that's another question for you  "long-timers."  The
> >iron and the grinder are the only costly tools I have right now, but I
> >would eventually like to have a Bevel-Max and  a few other things.
> >
> >Thanks everyone for the very useful info I read here everyday.  I
> >really enjoy it.
> >
> >My best to all for a great summer!
> >
> >Diane Gonzales
> >----
> >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> >To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> >
> >
> Richard and Meg LaVal
> apdo. 24-5655
> Monteverde
> COSTA RICA
> tel: 506 645 5052
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


i wonder if it's one of those mika irons, i noticed there pretty low in
price compared to the others. but knowing what i do with them i'd
probably kill it in a month.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
 New Pages Added:
 - New Instructional Guides Added!!!
 - The Creative Process
 - How to Find Patterns for Suncatchers
 - Picking Out Glass in the Store
 - 5 New Pictures in the 3-D Catagory
 - 2 New Pictures in the Panel Catagory
 - Updated Shots of The Heart of Atlantis, and Japanese Garden

----
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From owner-glass Sat May 24 11:09:44 1997
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X-Path: juno.com!dariece
From: dariece@juno.com (Dariece G. McClure)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: another pricing question
Date: Sat, 24 May 1997 14:07:39 EDT
Message-ID: <1997May24.18739.0>
References: <<1.5.4.16.19970519015433.261f4112@sol.racsa.co.cr>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Meg, could you please post a copy of your contract. I am new to the bungi
group and have not yet seen it. Thanks for your help.

Dariece

> If
>you want a copy of my  contract, give a "yell" although it is  very 
>much
>like one that was shared awhile ago online.  Meg
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From owner-glass Sat May 24 11:10:19 1997
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X-Path: juno.com!dariece
From: dariece@juno.com (Dariece G. McClure)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Making Bevels on the Bevel Max
Date: Sat, 24 May 1997 14:07:39 EDT
Message-ID: <1997May24.18739.0>
References: <<199705231525.IAA10027@mars.ark.com>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hello Wayne,

In regards to the project-o-scope there are a couple of possibilities
that might be useful for you. You can check with your local library to
see if they have overhead projectors that you can check out. The
libraries in my area used to do this, buy not any more. Also check with
local craft stores to see if they carry projectors. I have seen them at a
craft store here and they were only $19 or $29.99 ( I can't remember). 

Hope this helps.

Dariece

On Fri, 23 May 1997 08:25:56 -0700 wmunro@mars.ark.com (Wayne Munro)
writes:
>Sounds very interesting. How much are they and where can they be
>'mail-ordered' from?
>Also, any comments on the Glastar Project-o-scope? Good, Bad, 
>indifferent.
>(I'me looking for something to help with patterns but don't want to 
>spend
>'big bucks' as I probably wouldn't use it enough to justify large 
>expenditure.
>Please post on board or 'E-mail' me directly. Thanks in advance..Wayne
>
>Wayne Munro 'Snail-Mail'-2960 Suffield Road, Courtenay, B.C. Canada, 
>V9N-3V5
>E-Mail Address--wmunro@mars.ark.com
>Phone and Fax--(250) 338-5507
>Cell--(250) 720-7175
>
>
>----
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>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
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From owner-glass Sat May 24 12:59:33 1997
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X-Path: email8.starnetinc.com!glasdawg
From: "Paula Nelson" <glasdawg@ngai.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Hakko Soldering Irons
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glasdawg@mailg.starnetinc.com>
Date: Thu, 21 May 1998 15:04:46 +0000
Message-ID: <199705241955.OAA29322@email8.starnetinc.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: vom Uitland Rottz of the Glass Dog Studio
Precedence: bulk

> on section looks like it's in the back of the iron. is the tip seperate
> from the heater unit? or is it one solid piece like the unger? 

Ceramic, yes and separate, slips off the element like a sleeve. Of 
the ones I own and use - it's my favorite iron ;)
Paula
glasdawg@ngai.com

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
The Glass Dog Studio
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From owner-glass Sat May 24 15:24:35 1997
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X-Path: voicenet.com!hilary
From: "Hilary A. Bobker" <hilary@voicenet.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: W-C field trip
Date: Sat, 24 May 1997 17:24:40 +0000
Message-ID: <1997May24.172440.0>
References: <<199705241444.HAA22112@norm.island.net>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: HABit Fashion Services
Precedence: bulk

> I wonder if you could approach W-C about posting a fact sheet or something
> to the group on the techniques they present??

Hi, Carol,

Yes, I can, but you just have. The folks at W-C read this list
regularly. You can also go to their web site: 
http://www.warner-criv.com/
and leave them messages directly. 

I'm going to try and take notes. While they may be more complete and
accurate from someone who actually knows what they are doing, I'm gonna
try my best!<g>

Take care,
Hilary
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From owner-glass Sun May 25 07:28:37 1997
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X-Path: sol.racsa.co.cr!rlaval
From: Richard LaVal <rlaval@sol.racsa.co.cr>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Pricing
Date: Sun, 25 May 1997 08:22:22 -0600 (CST)
Message-ID: <1.5.4.16.19970523100738.1aaf6a40@sol.racsa.co.cr>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

 Dear Mike;
        Could be, although it doesn't have any manufacturer's name anywhere.
What do you know about the Mika irons???  I bought mine as an experiment,
will let  you know in a few months.... Meg

        Incidentally folks, the glass place in San Jose, Costa Rica, had a
>> 100 W iron, made in Taiwan was all it said, no brand.  Only cost $12 so
>> decided to risk it.  I love it!  Maybe it is just that it heats hotter,
>> having only used 80W ones, and had to switch back and forth between two to
>> keep them hot....  Meg
>> 
>
>i wonder if it's one of those mika irons, i noticed there pretty low in
>price compared to the others. but knowing what i do with them i'd
>probably kill it in a month.
>
>---Mike Savad
>
Richard and Meg LaVal
apdo. 24-5655
Monteverde
COSTA RICA
tel: 506 645 5052

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From owner-glass Sun May 25 08:01:42 1997
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X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Pricing
Date: Sun, 25 May 1997 10:57:43 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May25.65743.0>
References: <<1.5.4.16.19970523100738.1aaf6a40@sol.racsa.co.cr>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Richard LaVal wrote:
> 
>  Dear Mike;
>         Could be, although it doesn't have any manufacturer's name anywhere.
> What do you know about the Mika irons???  I bought mine as an experiment,
> will let  you know in a few months.... Meg
> 
>         Incidentally folks, the glass place in San Jose, Costa Rica, had a
> >> 100 W iron, made in Taiwan was all it said, no brand.  Only cost $12 so
> >> decided to risk it.  I love it!  Maybe it is just that it heats hotter,
> >> having only used 80W ones, and had to switch back and forth between two to
> >> keep them hot....  Meg
> >>
> >
> >i wonder if it's one of those mika irons, i noticed there pretty low in
> >price compared to the others. but knowing what i do with them i'd
> >probably kill it in a month.
> >
> >---Mike Savad
> >
> Richard and Meg LaVal
> apdo. 24-5655
> Monteverde
> COSTA RICA
> tel: 506 645 5052
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

i don't know much about them. the other day i was searching for the
right iron for me and noticed i high powered iron for not much money. so
your's could be a mika, or a high powered electricians iron.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
 New Pages Added:
 - New Instructional Guides Added!!!
 - The Creative Process
 - How to Find Patterns for Suncatchers
 - Picking Out Glass in the Store
 - 5 New Pictures in the 3-D Catagory
 - 2 New Pictures in the Panel Catagory
 - Updated Shots of The Heart of Atlantis, and Japanese Garden
----
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From owner-glass Sun May 25 09:13:03 1997
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X-Path: p085.aone.net.au!allcrafts
From: Melanie Dunstan <allcrafts@p085.aone.net.au>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: kilns
Date: Sun, 25 May 1997 21:41:12 +0800
Message-ID: <1997May26.54112.0>
References: <<1.5.4.32.19970524141630.0067f044@mail.kwic.com>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Allcrafts Goods & Services
Precedence: bulk

Garry McKenna wrote:
> 
> Melanie:
> 
> Yes, I can see where you could have some fun with this paint, I originally
> thought of jazzing up some blah bathroom tiles but havn't gotten around to
> it yet. It won't last 1000 years but there are a lot of fun applications.  I
> bought it in Micheal's in Canada, this is a big chain of hobby/craft
> supplies on both sides of the border.  I don't know where that would leave
> you but you could write them. The stuff comes in 45 different colours in 2
> oz. bottles and it sample kits of 8 colours in tiny 5ml. containers.  It is
> called Delta CeramDecor PermEnamel Paint.  They can be reached at PermEnamel
> Projects, Delta,  2550 Pellissier Place,  Whittier, CA  90601 - 1505.
> If you end up having problems, just get in touch with me, I wouldn't mind
> shipping some off to you.
> 
> Linda
> 
> ----
Hi Linda and many thanks for all the info. I'll get ahold of them and
see if I can import direct. Much appreciated! Regards Melanie Dunstan


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From owner-glass Sun May 25 15:14:18 1997
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X-Path: ebtech.net!proffire
From: Doug Scale <proffire@ebtech.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Circle and/or Octagon bevels
Date: Sun, 25 May 1997 18:11:15 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May25.141115.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I'm working on a pattern from the book "New Dimensions" by Terra and
would like to find a supplier of either the 1 1/2" octagon or circle
bevels for the designs shown on the cover.  Have checked several
catalogues i have here and none of them show these special bevels. Do
they have to be special ordered and if so from what company.

Thanks,


Doug Scale
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From owner-glass Sun May 25 15:46:50 1997
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X-Path: XAVIER.XU.EDU!CRABLE
From: "Elaine Crable, 745-2029" <CRABLE@XAVIER.XU.EDU>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; CHARSET=US-ASCII
Subject: Going on Vacation
Date: Sun, 25 May 1997 18:44:42 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <1997May25.144442.0>
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Precedence: bulk

Would your please deactivate  me until I return from vacation.  I will
notify you when I return.
Bye
Elaine
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From owner-glass Sun May 25 19:33:52 1997
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X-Path: juno.com!studioone1
From: studioone1@juno.com (Dee l Plott)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: photographing
Date: Sun, 25 May 1997 22:31:55 EDT
Message-ID: <1997May26.23155.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi,
I have taken alot of pics over the years that came out okay.  What I'd
really like is to take really good pictures.  Any hints on how to take
pictures of panels as well as smaller items?  What is the best speed
film, lighting, etc?  Are outside or inside shots better?  Has anybody
made their own brochure or catalog?  I have been working on mine and
could use any suggestions or helpful hints. Thanks, dee
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From owner-glass Mon May 26 02:03:41 1997
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X-Path: OzEmail.com.au!JanASGLA
From: Albion Glass <JanASGLA@ozemail.com.au>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="---- =_NextPart_000_01BC6A07.E449FA20"
Subject: RE: supplies and costs
Date: Mon, 26 May 1997 19:04:28 +-1000
Message-ID: <1997May26.9428.0>
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------ =_NextPart_000_01BC6A07.E449FA20
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hi Melanie,

I teach stained glass, we have a retail shop in Brisbane.  We have had =
classes=20
for 14 years.  I guess some things are more expensive here, but we have =
found that folk accept it and pay the price.  I have been involved with =
the Art Glass Suppliers Association for 6-7 years and have been to a =
number of shops in the states, as well as wholesalers.  I purchase quite =
a number of items from U.S.A.
I stock a large range of books, that are sometimes not available here.  =
One wholesaler in the states has my complete book order for the year so =
we always have the most recent.  BTW Carolyn Kyle is coming to Oz next =
year.  I am involved in organizing some of the workshops.  =20

I am not sure where you live, but if you need more information please =
contact me.

I would say go for it and teach.

                                               Best wishes Jan Barnard
----------
From: 	Melanie Dunstan[SMTP:allcrafts@p085.aone.net.au]
Sent: 	Tuesday, May 20, 1997 1:55 PM
To: 	glass@bungi.com
Subject: 	Re: supplies and costs

Hi there anyone from Australia? I've been thinking about teaching a -
really basic - stained glass course at a local craft centre, and been
put off by the number of people who worriedly tell me that stained glass
supplies are REALLY expensive here. Anyone with any ideas or comments
please? Much appreciated. Regards Melanie Dunstan

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cDov1C93lkAuaucvgdqXf19xz3LfWJIKhRUxAJwAAAMAEBAAAAAAAwAREAAAAABAAAcwIGLTerJp
vAFAAAgwIGLTerJpvAEeAD0AAQAAAAUAAABSRTogAAAAAAwF

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From owner-glass Mon May 26 05:12:11 1997
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X-Path: cyberramp.net!byronw
From: byronw@cyberramp.net
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Exhaust or Filter
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Date: Mon, 26 May 1997 07:13:08 +0000
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Hi All...

I've been getting and reading this list for a few months now and have 
enjoyed it a lot!

I'm moving my stained glass stuff out of my woodshop into this spare 
room because of overcrouding in the woodshop...In the woodshop I 
would simply open the door and windows and turn a fan on when 
soldering...Now that I'm in the house with A/C bills and such would 
it be better to use some sort of recycling filter to clean the air or 
should I use exhaust vent fans?? I have 2 really good bath exhaust 
fans still in the boxes here I can use (not the el cheapo kind) but 
didnt know if I would be better with a filter of some sort....

I do use a filter in the den to keep dust from my birds to a minimum 
but I dont think it would be good enough to filter out lead/flux 
vapor...

Thanks in advance!

Byron...

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From owner-glass Mon May 26 06:06:34 1997
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X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Dee l Plott <studioone1@juno.com>, "[unknown]" <GLASS@BUNGI.COM>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: photographing
Date: Mon, 26 May 1997 09:04:55 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May26.5455.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I recommend you purchase the book, "Photographing Your Craftwork: A
Hands-on Guide for Craftspeople" by Steve Meltzer.  Steve is on the staff=

of "The Crafts Report" magazine, and is a professional photographer.  The=

book has a chapter devoted to photographing glass, including how to rig u=
p
photographing stained glass panels and mirrors.

I also took a private lesson with a professional photographer (after
reading through Steve Meltzer's book so I would be able to understand the=

lingo).  The 2 hour lesson was specific on how to photograph stained glas=
s
- which speed/manufacturer of film works best for slides and prints -
whether to use blue tungsten flashbulbs and film versus full-spectrum fil=
m
and outdoor settings - how to minimize distracting elements in the
composition - setting up an indoor photography studio in one corner of my=

stained glass studio, etc.  The money and time were well spent.

=2E..Christie
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From owner-glass Mon May 26 06:28:39 1997
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X-Path: p085.aone.net.au!allcrafts
From: Melanie Dunstan <allcrafts@p085.aone.net.au>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: supplies and costs
Date: Mon, 26 May 1997 21:16:47 +0800
Message-ID: <1997May27.51647.0>
References: <<1997May26.9428.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Allcrafts Goods & Services
Precedence: bulk

Albion Glass wrote:
> 
> Hi Melanie,
> 
> I teach stained glass, we have a retail shop in Brisbane.  We have had classes
> for 14 years.  I guess some things are more expensive here, but we have found that folk accept it and pay the price.  I have been involved with the Art Glass Suppliers Association for 6-7 years and have been to a number of shops in the states, as well as wholesalers.  I purchase quite a number of items from U.S.A.
> I stock a large range of books, that are sometimes not available here.  One wholesaler in the states has my complete book order for the year so we always have the most recent.  BTW Carolyn Kyle is coming to Oz next year.  I am involved in organizing some of the workshops.
> 
> I am not sure where you live, but if you need more information please contact me.
> 
> I would say go for it and teach.
> 
>                                                Best wishes Jan Barnard
> ----------
Hi Jan very many thanks for your info. I'm in Perth and guess what I
just found a glass Manufacturer (!) round the corner in Kardinya called
HiGlass who have the most *amazing supplies of glass for leadwork,
slumping, fusing etc. Signing up for a course at the end of June. URL is
http://www.wt.com.au/~rdeint/higlass.htm and some of those pictures are
really neat!

After that I think I'll be offering a small suncatcher as a workshop
rather than a ful-blown 'how-to' course - feedback I've been getting
from other sources and other craft media teachers indicates that the
buying public is happy to pay for a 'short' project but unwilling to lay
out for a lengthy course that will teach all the basics to enable them
to do *whatever they want to. Some punters just need guidance I guess.
Once again thanks for your help - I know who to call when I need
up-to-date references!

Would be intersted in the itinerary for Carolyn - is Perth a likelihood?
Thanks again Melanie Dunstan


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From owner-glass Mon May 26 08:44:46 1997
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From: leestat7 <leestat7@home.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Exhaust or Filter
Date: Mon, 26 May 1997 11:40:18 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May26.74018.0>
References: <<199705261211.HAA10633@mailhost.cyberramp.net>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: @Home Network
Precedence: bulk

Hi Byron

I have my studio in a spare bedroom too, and since Florida is hot and
humid most of the year, have worked out a system.  When soldering, I
keep the door to the rest of the house closed.  I have an Inland Fume
trap that goes right next to the soldering iron, and a HEPA Air Filter
by Holmes.  The Holms filter is rated for a 16 x 20 room, so does fine
with the 12 x 14 bedroom.  Run on High when soldering, low or medium
when doing other work.  Also have a carpet remnant 8 x 10 over the floor
work area, that gets replaced every other month.  I get the remnants
free, sometimes the color is rather wild :-) but it works by keeping
glass slivers out of the rest of the house.  I also carefully trap all
the solder bits so they don't go into the rug.  This keeps the A/C bill
tolerable, and it is fairly comfortable to work in there.  I solder in
20 -30 minute sessions, and then take a sit-down break in another room.
The two birds I have are not allowed in the studio, nor would other pets
or children be, if I had them. I am on a 'sit break' right now, messing
with the computer.  So, it is  back to work.

Lee Boe
Rain-Boe's Creations

byronw@cyberramp.net wrote:

> 
> I'm moving my stained glass stuff out of my woodshop into this spare
> room because of overcrouding in the woodshop...In the woodshop I
> would simply open the door and windows and turn a fan on when
> soldering...Now that I'm in the house with A/C bills and such would
> it be better to use some sort of recycling filter to clean the air or
> should I use exhaust vent fans?? 
> I do use a filter in the den to keep dust from my birds to a minimum
> but I dont think it would be good enough to filter out lead/flux
> vapor...
>
----
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From owner-glass Mon May 26 13:34:12 1997
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X-Path: computer.net!alewis
From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@computer.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Exhaust or Filter
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@computer.net>
Date: Mon, 26 May 1997 16:40:38 +0000
Message-ID: <199705262033.QAA12106@ns.computer.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


> soldering...Now that I'm in the house with A/C bills and such would 
> it be better to use some sort of recycling filter to clean the air or 
> should I use exhaust vent fans??

Check with Monona Rossol, Arts Crafts & Theater Safety, at 
http://www.caseweb.com/acts/  

Albert

Albert Lewis, Executive Director
International Guild of Glass Artists
A 501(c)(6) nonprofit organization
Tonetta Lake Road, Brewster NY 10509
(914) 278-2152   Fax: (914) 278-2481
_________________________________________________________
http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/ [home page]
http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/guide.htm [Sources Guide]
http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/links.htm [Members' Work]

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From owner-glass Mon May 26 17:08:12 1997
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X-Path: telusplanet.net!dwightj
From: telusplanet.net!dwightj
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: a little personal history
Date: Mon May 26 17:06:55 1997
Message-ID: <1997May27.144155.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Dear Glenna,  Thanks for getting back to me so quickly.  I live in sunny
southern Alberta, Lethbridge to be exact.  I've been doing stained glass
for several years now and have done everything from french doors to
mosaic stepping stones.  This winter I made 20 stones and designed most
of my own patterns.  Weather permitting, 10 will be installed into a
patio that we're working on.  I do most of my own designs and have one
piece of art that I'm very proud of.  I built a window for my dining
room to hold a glass house where I keep my miniature crystals.  When the
sun hits it is incredibily spectacular.  I work as a psychiatric nurse
at a community mental health clinic and find glass to be an excellent
stress reducer.  Unfortunately, I have run out of exterior windows in my
home but a few holes in the walls has solved that problem.  This winter
my husband finally finished my stained glass room and I have a great
work space where I can get lost for hours.  I very much appreciate your
dedication to the art of stained glass and follow the net closely.  If
you get a minute, fill me in on your progress this winter.  I'd love to
hear from you.  Sincerely, Lorna from Canada.
----
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From owner-glass Mon May 26 21:08:29 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!SUGR5
From: SUGR5@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: need out of print book
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 00:07:48 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <1997May26.20748.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi All,
    I'm looking a pattern book called "Bears on Parade" published by CKE in
1987.
In paticular, I'm looking for the pattern of the bear in a tub.  If you can
help, please e-mail at Sugr5@aol.com

TIA
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From owner-glass Tue May 27 02:57:57 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!Yegnim
From: Yegnim@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: a little personal history
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 05:57:16 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <1997May27.15716.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Lorna,
I am very intrigued by the "glass house" you built where you keep your
crystals.  Is the house 3-d or flat?  It sounds breathtaking when the sun
hits.  Could you explain the house in detail to me?  Have any photos of it?
 Tried to e-mail your address but it came back unmailed due to an address
problem.
Eleanor
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From owner-glass Tue May 27 05:21:28 1997
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From: The Anthonys <panthony@mail.bcpl.lib.md.us>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=koi8-r
Subject: Re: need out of print book
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 08:20:30 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May27.42030.0>
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Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

CKE has a web page and will send you a free catalog of their books. If
it's not still in print, they might have old copies. ?
--S B

SUGR5@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Hi All,
>     I'm looking a pattern book called "Bears on Parade" published by CKE in
> 1987.
> In paticular, I'm looking for the pattern of the bear in a tub.  If you can
> help, please e-mail at Sugr5@aol.com
> 
> TIA
>
----
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From owner-glass Tue May 27 05:57:16 1997
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X-Path: digital.net!agw
From: Jennifer Daniels <agw@digital.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: need out of print book
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 08:56:39 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <199705271256.IAA22888@ddi.digital.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

CKE's e-mail address is CKEpubs@aol.com.  You can check out their web site
at http://www.artglassworld.com/supply/cke.

Jennifer

At 12:07 AM 5/27/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Hi All,
>    I'm looking a pattern book called "Bears on Parade" published by CKE in
>1987.
>In paticular, I'm looking for the pattern of the bear in a tub.  If you can
>help, please e-mail at Sugr5@aol.com
>
>TIA
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
>
================================================================
Jennifer Daniels                    agw@digital.net
Art Glass World                     http://www.artglassworld.com
4002 W. State Street                phone: 813-348-0605
Tampa, FL  33609  USA               fax: 813-872-6288
================================================================

----
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From owner-glass Tue May 27 07:04:57 1997
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X-Path: busprod.com!artist
From: artist@busprod.com (LJ Maas)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: need out of print book
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 09:06:39 -0500
Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.19970527090639.006959cc@busprod.com>
References: <<199705271256.IAA22888@ddi.digital.net>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

>>    I'm looking a pattern book called "Bears on Parade" published by CKE in
>>1987.
>>In paticular, I'm looking for the pattern of the bear in a tub.  If you can
>>help, please e-mail at Sugr5@aol.com
>>TIA

I have 3  resources for pattern material. I have ordered new and used
pattern books from all three places and have always received prompt and
accurate assistance.
Powell's Bookstore: <http://www.powells.com>
Amazon.Com: <http://www.amazon.com>
Hard-To-Find Needlework Books (she really does have stained glass stuff):
<http://www.needleworkbooks.com/stained.html>

hope this helps...LJ
  ****************************************************************
LJ Maas: artist@busprod.com
ART WITH ATTITUDE Stained Glass Design
"Unique Stained Glass Creations"
<http://www.art-with-attitude.com/glass/artglass.html>

OVER THE RAINBOW Webpage Design & Consulting
<http://www.art-with-attitude.com/rainbow.html>
----
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From owner-glass Tue May 27 08:30:09 1997
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X-Path: az.stratus.com!charlie
From: Charles Spitzer <charlie@az.stratus.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: Re: need out of print book
Date: Tue, 27 May 97 08:28:54 -0700
Message-ID: <m0wWOBD-000LiCC@why.az.stratus.com>
References: <<1997May26.20748.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Customer Assistance Center, Stratus Computer, Inc.
Precedence: bulk

You wrote:
> Hi All,
> I'm looking a pattern book called "Bears on Parade" published by CKE in
> 1987.
> In paticular, I'm looking for the pattern of the bear in a tub.  If you can
> help, please e-mail at Sugr5@aol.com
>

i'm pretty sure i have this book at home.

---
Charles Spitzer
charlie@az.stratus.com
Customer Assistance Center
Stratus Computer, Inc.
Phoenix, AZ
----
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From owner-glass Tue May 27 09:51:23 1997
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X-Path: digital.net!agw
From: Jennifer Daniels <agw@digital.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Art Glass World Update
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 12:50:26 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <199705271650.MAA26143@ddi.digital.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

--Art  Glass World Visitor Update--

Diamond Tech International Update
DTI has updated their web site with new products, including mosaic forms,
patterns, and instructional videos. While you're there see how you can receive
free MosaicArt Coaster forms and patterns. Site also includes two FREE
MosaicArt patterns available to download. Online catalog provides complete
product information on DTI tools and accessories. Visit the online info request
to receive product and dealer information.   Visit at
http://www.artglassworld.com/supply/dti.

Retailer Directory
Looking to get started in stained glass? Need to find classes and supplies?
Check out what's in your area with the retailer directory. Over 90 stores just
added. If you have a retail supply store learn how to be added to the directory.
Brought to you by the Stained Glass News.  Visit at
http://www.artglassworld.com/dlist.html.

Free New Patterns
Free new patterns are available for download. Create mosaic coasters with new
Victorian and Daisy patterns. These are great fun and easy projects which make
beautiful gifts. These patterns are an online AGW exclusive from the new
MosaicArt Book One pattern book. Brought to you by Diamond Tech
International.   Visit at http://www.artglassworld.com/pattern.html.

Visitors Gallery
Check out what's hanging up in the gallery from our talented Art Glass World
visitors. While you're there learn how you can have your own artwork up for
the world to see.  Visit at http://www.artglassworld.com/gallery.
================================================================
Jennifer Daniels                    agw@digital.net
Art Glass World                     http://www.artglassworld.com
4002 W. State Street                phone: 813-348-0605
Tampa, FL  33609  USA               fax: 813-872-6288
================================================================

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From owner-glass Tue May 27 10:33:12 1997
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From: Deborah Harasen <harasend@air.on.ca>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: another pricing question
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 13:27:12 -0700
Message-ID: <1997May27.62712.0>
References: <<1997May24.1252.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Yegnim@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Meg,
> I have only been on-line a couple of months.  Your written estimate sounds
> good to me.  Tell me, how much of a variation is there between the $______and
> $_______  in your estimates?  Just a ballpark figure would be nice to know.
>  Also, could you e-mail me a copy of your contract?
> Eleanor
> ----
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Sorry, I think you sent this to the wrong address. :-)
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From owner-glass Tue May 27 10:34:26 1997
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X-Path: air.on.ca!harasend
From: Deborah Harasen <harasend@air.on.ca>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: need out of print book
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 13:29:16 -0700
Message-ID: <1997May27.62916.0>
References: <<3.0.1.32.19970527090639.006959cc@busprod.com>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

LJ Maas wrote:
> 
> >>    I'm looking a pattern book called "Bears on Parade" published by CKE in
> >>1987.
> >>In paticular, I'm looking for the pattern of the bear in a tub.  If you can
> >>help, please e-mail at Sugr5@aol.com
> >>TIA
> 
> I have 3  resources for pattern material. I have ordered new and used
> pattern books from all three places and have always received prompt and
> accurate assistance.
> Powell's Bookstore: <http://www.powells.com>
> Amazon.Com: <http://www.amazon.com>
> Hard-To-Find Needlework Books (she really does have stained glass stuff):
> <http://www.needleworkbooks.com/stained.html>
> 
> hope this helps...LJ
>   ****************************************************************
> LJ Maas: artist@busprod.com
> ART WITH ATTITUDE Stained Glass Design
> "Unique Stained Glass Creations"
> <http://www.art-with-attitude.com/glass/artglass.html>
> 
> OVER THE RAINBOW Webpage Design & Consulting
> <http://www.art-with-attitude.com/rainbow.html>
> ----
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Sorry, I don't know how I got this mail, but I don't think you meant to
send it to me. :-)
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From owner-glass Tue May 27 10:37:02 1997
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From: Deborah Harasen <harasend@air.on.ca>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: need out of print book
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 13:31:32 -0700
Message-ID: <1997May27.63132.0>
References: <<m0wWOBD-000LiCC@why.az.stratus.com>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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Charles Spitzer wrote:
> 
> You wrote:
> > Hi All,
> > I'm looking a pattern book called "Bears on Parade" published by CKE in
> > 1987.
> > In paticular, I'm looking for the pattern of the bear in a tub.  If you can
> > help, please e-mail at Sugr5@aol.com
> >
> 
> i'm pretty sure i have this book at home.
> 
> ---
> Charles Spitzer
> charlie@az.stratus.com
> Customer Assistance Center
> Stratus Computer, Inc.
> Phoenix, AZ
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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I have no idea why I got this mail.  :-)
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From owner-glass Tue May 27 11:16:15 1997
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X-Path: fast.net!warnerc
From: Warner-Crivellaro <warnerc@fast.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Those who a Warner C. bound..
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 14:13:40 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May27.101340.0>
References: <<m0wUyTR-0000FEC@daver.bungi.com>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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Drag, Gloria J. wrote:
> 
> Hi,
> Could I impose and maybe  ask you to ask Angelo  a question  on plating
> for me.. When  tried to plate, I would at times have moisture build up
> between the plating.. I tried the slightness amount of flux, because I
> thought too much flux would cause it..
> Thanks in advance
> ----
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> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
What you need to do is vent both the top and bottom of your panel. For
example, with vaseline. When you solder, it will create a small hole
allowing air to flow through and thus your panel will dry. Let me know
if I can be of further assistance to you. 
Thank you,
Angelo
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From owner-glass Tue May 27 11:16:44 1997
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X-Path: juno.com!diamonds
From: diamonds@juno.com (Mary J Austin)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Exhaust or Filter
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 13:12:01 PST
Message-ID: <1997May27.21121.0>
References: <<199705262033.QAA12106@ns.computer.net>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I'm in need of a pattern of the golfer. If anyone has it and would be
knid enough to fax it to 317-888-2548 I'd appreciate it. I need it as
soon as possible, Thanks I appreicate all your help
Mary   diamonds@juno.com



On Mon, 26 May 1997 16:40:38 +0000 "Albert Lewis" <alewis@computer.net>
writes:
>
>> soldering...Now that I'm in the house with A/C bills and such would 
>> it be better to use some sort of recycling filter to clean the air 
>or 
>> should I use exhaust vent fans??
>
>Check with Monona Rossol, Arts Crafts & Theater Safety, at 
>http://www.caseweb.com/acts/  
>
>Albert
>
>Albert Lewis, Executive Director
>International Guild of Glass Artists
>A 501(c)(6) nonprofit organization
>Tonetta Lake Road, Brewster NY 10509
>(914) 278-2152   Fax: (914) 278-2481
>_________________________________________________________
>http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/ [home page]
>http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/guide.htm [Sources Guide]
>http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/links.htm [Members' Work]
>
>----
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>
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From owner-glass Tue May 27 13:09:27 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!SUGR5
From: SUGR5@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: bears on parade pattern request
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 16:08:37 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <1997May27.12837.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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Thanks all who responded so promtly to my request.
Several of you offered to send the pattern, including Marge at CKE.  Since
they published it in the first place, I will get it from her.
Thanks again,
Susan
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From owner-glass Tue May 27 17:45:21 1997
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X-Path: telusplanet.net!dwightj
From: telusplanet.net!dwightj
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: glass house
Date: Tue May 27 17:44:05 1997
Message-ID: <1997May28.15195.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Dear Eleanor,  I purchased a "display" glass house (yes, it is 3-D and
measures about 10 inches by 9 inches).  I removed the mirror back and
centered it on my pattern.  I surrounded the house with 7-2x3 bevels
across the bottom and used 5-3 inch diagonal bevels along each side of
the house.  The house is capped with a bevel flower cluster and has 4-3
inch diagonal bevels which join into the side bevels.  The rest of the
window is made out of clear antique, barogue, and sparkelit and I have
picked up the bevel patterns throughout.  I did this one in lead.  The
total window measures 3.5x2 feet.  I am sure that this is as clear as
mud.  I do have pictures and if you'd like one, please let me know.    
I also used mirror in my mosaic stepping stones.  Out of Tiffany
Stepping Stones, I used mirror to surround that marvelous sun.  It
turned out excellent.  The mirror did not scratch and it catches the sun
very nicely.  My correct e mail address is
dwightj@telusplanet.net               Sincerely, Lorna from Canada
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From owner-glass Wed May 28 07:31:13 1997
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: fake lamp
Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 10:26:30 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May28.62630.0>
References: <<1997May28.15195.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

welp, i've seen everything now. the other day i went into a store in the
mall where people set up there craft. in the back i noticed a descent
sized lamp, the price said $170.00 i thought, "that's allfully low for a
lamp that sized". the lamp was the hardware store type, when i too a
better look at it, i noticed something was wrong with the coloring of
the glass. although the the pieces were seperate, the glass was clear,
and it had a photo of the glass adhered to the back. if you looked
carefully at it, it was dithered (like a newspaper). ...very sad...


---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
 New Pages Added:
 - New Instructional Guides Added!!!
 - The Creative Process
 - How to Find Patterns for Suncatchers
 - Picking Out Glass in the Store
 - 5 New Pictures in the 3-D Catagory
 - 2 New Pictures in the Panel Catagory
 - Updated Shots of The Heart of Atlantis, and Japanese Garden
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From owner-glass Wed May 28 09:14:05 1997
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From: SUGR5@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: a joke
Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 12:13:10 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <1997May28.81310.0>
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What's greasy, crumpled, and brown and lives in a bell-tower?
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From owner-glass Wed May 28 09:14:29 1997
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From: SUGR5@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: a joke
Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 12:13:53 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <1997May28.81353.0>
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The Lunchbag of NotreDame.
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From owner-glass Wed May 28 16:58:14 1997
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X-Path: fast.net!warnerc
From: Warner-Crivellaro <warnerc@fast.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: w-c field trip May 31st
Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 19:55:29 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May28.155529.0>
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To all of you who will be joining us Saturday at Warner-Crivellaro, I
have some exciting news for you! The man himself, Robert Oddy, will be
there to answer all your questions first hand! He is absolutely
delighted to know that he has such a fan club and is very excited to
meet all of you and answer anything you want about the techniques he
uses. He will be bringing samples of his work and photos that aren't on
his site. By the way, for those who are new to bungi his web site
address is: www.servtech.com/public/rnoddy. His work is fantastic and we
look forward to spending a fun day with everyone. It's still not too
late to hop on the bandwagon!
See you Saturday!
Elenie
Warner-Crivellaro Stained Glass
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From owner-glass Wed May 28 17:19:13 1997
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X-Path: voicenet.com!hilary
From: "Hilary A. Bobker" <hilary@voicenet.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Attn Philly Area Bungians
Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 19:20:43 +0000
Message-ID: <1997May28.192043.0>
References: <<1997May9.224116.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: HABit Fashion Services
Precedence: bulk

Ok, Bungians, remember when we had a discussion about what the perfect
stained glass store was and I voted for Warner-Crivellaro? And remember
how we have been drumming up a little field trip to Allentown to see
Angelo demostrate some of the techniques that Robert Oddy uses in his
incredible pieces? Well, if you combine the two, you get a stained glass
store that is actually going to have Robert Oddy himself demonstrating
his techniques on Saturday!!!! That's this Saturday, May 31st. So, if
you were deciding not to go 'cause you had to wash your hair/car/lawn,
you might want to reconsider that decision!

I am still hyperventillating! 

Three deep breaths. 

W-C is asking for a head count, so if you change your mind and decide to
go with us on Saturday, please let me know so that I can give them a
total.

Three deep breaths isn't enough.
Hilary
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From owner-glass Wed May 28 17:56:09 1997
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X-Path: mail.bright.net!joyce
From: glasschic <joyce@mail.bright.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: bending zinc
Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 20:54:48 -0400
Message-ID: <3.0.32.19970528203300.006a0dec@mail.bright.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I just finished a new project for a client, and I thought I'd try something
new and different and use rounded edges for the corners.  I have a came
bender and I used it, but I'm not real happy with the results.  Anyone have
a short lesson on the in's and out's of bending 1/2" zinc?  Two of the
corners came out just fine, the exact curve I needed, but the other two
came out with a microscopic difference in the curve causing a small piece
of the curve not covering the glass edge.  I fussed and fussed with the
zinc for a long time, but still could not get that curve to be exactly what
I needed.  Some help please!?!

Garden of Glass
Joyce Moran

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From owner-glass Thu May 29 03:30:29 1997
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X-Path: worldnet.att.net!ElsieTurqman
From: Elsie Turqman <ElsieTurqman@worldnet.att.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Attn Philly Area Bungians
Date: Thu, 29 May 1997 10:29:38 +0000
Message-ID: <1997May29.102938.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hilary

Unless there is a last minute problem, I will be joining the group at W-C on
Sat.  What time is the demo and when do we meet.  Is everyone  going to wear
a bungi cord as identification?

Elsie from NJ

At 07:20 PM 5/28/97 +0000, you wrote:
>Ok, Bungians, remember when we had a discussion about what the perfect
>stained glass store was and I voted for Warner-Crivellaro? And remember
>how we have been drumming up a little field trip to Allentown to see
>Angelo demostrate some of the techniques that Robert Oddy uses in his
>incredible pieces? Well, if you combine the two, you get a stained glass
>store that is actually going to have Robert Oddy himself demonstrating
>his techniques on Saturday!!!! That's this Saturday, May 31st. So, if
>you were deciding not to go 'cause you had to wash your hair/car/lawn,
>you might want to reconsider that decision!
>
>I am still hyperventillating! 
>
>Three deep breaths. 
>
>W-C is asking for a head count, so if you change your mind and decide to
>go with us on Saturday, please let me know so that I can give them a
>total.
>
>Three deep breaths isn't enough.
>Hilary
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>

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From owner-glass Thu May 29 04:32:12 1997
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From: "Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: "INTERNET:glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: w-c field trip May 31st
Date: Thu, 29 May 1997 07:31:25 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May29.33125.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Cool, cool, cool that Mr. Robert Oddy will be there with some of his othe=
r
glass works.  I am looking foreward to seeing everyone there.  We will
probably be hitting W-C around 10:15 or so.  When will Mr. Oddy be there?=


=2E..Christie
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From owner-glass Thu May 29 05:37:15 1997
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X-Path: epix.net!winola
From: winola@epix.net
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Attn Philly Area Bungians
Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 20:21:55 -0700
Message-ID: <1997May28.132155.0>
References: <<1997May28.192043.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hilary A. Bobker , hi , thanks for all the info. There will be 2 comming 
from scranton.  see you all soon! wondered if cam recorder would be ok?I 
could set up on tripod maybe? get all the scoop and oh maybe try to share 
w/others that can't come? 
Jeanne







wrote:
> 
> Ok, Bungians, remember when we had a discussion about what the perfect
> stained glass store was and I voted for Warner-Crivellaro? And remember
> how we have been drumming up a little field trip to Allentown to see
> Angelo demostrate some of the techniques that Robert Oddy uses in his
> incredible pieces? Well, if you combine the two, you get a stained glass
> store that is actually going to have Robert Oddy himself demonstrating
> his techniques on Saturday!!!! That's this Saturday, May 31st. So, if
> you were deciding not to go 'cause you had to wash your hair/car/lawn,
> you might want to reconsider that decision!
> 
> I am still hyperventillating!
> 
> Three deep breaths.
> 
> W-C is asking for a head count, so if you change your mind and decide to
> go with us on Saturday, please let me know so that I can give them a
> total.
> 
> Three deep breaths isn't enough.
> Hilary
> ----
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From owner-glass Thu May 29 07:06:11 1997
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X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: bending zinc
Date: Thu, 29 May 1997 10:01:55 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May29.6155.0>
References: <<3.0.32.19970528203300.006a0dec@mail.bright.net>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

glasschic wrote:
> 
> I just finished a new project for a client, and I thought I'd try something
> new and different and use rounded edges for the corners.  I have a came
> bender and I used it, but I'm not real happy with the results.  Anyone have
> a short lesson on the in's and out's of bending 1/2" zinc?  Two of the
> corners came out just fine, the exact curve I needed, but the other two
> came out with a microscopic difference in the curve causing a small piece
> of the curve not covering the glass edge.  I fussed and fussed with the
> zinc for a long time, but still could not get that curve to be exactly what
> I needed.  Some help please!?!
> 
> Garden of Glass
> Joyce Moran
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


i'm assuming your using border came, in which a came bender tends to
mangalizes. i would try removing little slices of metal (relief cuts),
with a dremel; then try bending it by hand.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
 New Pages Added:
 - New Instructional Guides Added!!!
 - The Creative Process
 - How to Find Patterns for Suncatchers
 - Picking Out Glass in the Store
 - 5 New Pictures in the 3-D Catagory
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From owner-glass Thu May 29 07:27:04 1997
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X-Path: mail.island.net!seaspray
From: seaspray@mail.island.net (Carol Swann)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: video of WC trip
Date: Thu, 29 May 1997 07:26:31 -0700
Message-ID: <199705291426.HAA22523@norm.island.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

>Hilary A. Bobker , hi , thanks for all the info. There will be 2 comming 
>from scranton.  see you all soon! wondered if cam recorder would be ok?I 
>could set up on tripod maybe? get all the scoop and oh maybe try to share 
>w/others that can't come? 
>Jeanne

What a great idea!!! I'd love to get a copy...make sure all the bungians
identify themselves at the beginning so we can put faces to some of the
bungians.
I hope this works out.  

Cheers

Carol
Synergy Glass & Creative

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From owner-glass Thu May 29 07:53:07 1997
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X-Path: telusplanet.net!dwightj
From: telusplanet.net!dwightj
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: From chandaliers to peacocks:  jewels
Date: Thu May 29 07:51:29 1997
Message-ID: <1997May30.52629.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi everyone!  I'm into my recycling mode again.  I have a very ugly
chandalier with some very nice double sided jewels.  I want to use the
jewels to make a fireplace screen and have designed, in my mind, a
peacock.  I want to use the jewels in the tail feathers.  This is my
problem.  The jewels are different sizes and depths.  I will not be able
to work this project flat.  Does anyone have any ideas or experience on
how to assemble this creature, then solder?  Thanking you in advance. 
Sincerely, Lorna from Canada    e mail dwightj@telusplanet.net
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From owner-glass Thu May 29 07:56:44 1997
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X-Path: telusplanet.net!dwightj
From: telusplanet.net!dwightj
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: WC video
Date: Thu May 29 07:56:19 1997
Message-ID: <1997May30.53119.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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Hi everyone, I also would love a copy of any video re: this
presentation.  I am green with envy.  We Canadians are fairly resource
poor.  Please let me know if this is going to fly and what cost will be
attached.  Thanking you in advance.  Sincerely, Lorna from Canada   e
mail dwightj@telusplanet.net
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From owner-glass Thu May 29 08:25:26 1997
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X-Path: busprod.com!artist
From: artist@busprod.com (LJ Maas)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: video of WC trip
Date: Thu, 29 May 1997 10:28:16 -0500
Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.19970529102816.00697d78@busprod.com>
References: <<199705291426.HAA22523@norm.island.net>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

>>see you all soon! wondered if cam recorder would be ok?I 
>>could set up on tripod maybe? get all the scoop and oh maybe try to share 
>>w/others that can't come? 
>>Jeanne

I'm only wishing that Oklahoma weren't so far away! I'm all for paying the
cost and postage if you are able to get a good tape, Jeanne. The USPS has
some great video mailers for Priority Mail. Let us know if it's feasible
and what the cost would be, I'll definitely take a copy.
LJ
  ****************************************************************
LJ Maas: artist@busprod.com
ART WITH ATTITUDE Stained Glass Design
"Unique Stained Glass Creations"
<http://www.art-with-attitude.com/glass/artglass.html>

OVER THE RAINBOW Webpage Design & Consulting
<http://www.art-with-attitude.com/rainbow.html>
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From owner-glass Thu May 29 08:46:29 1997
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X-Path: az.stratus.com!charlie
From: charlie@az.stratus.com (Charles Spitzer)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: From chandaliers to peacocks:  jewels
Date: Thu, 29 May 97 8:45:43 MST
Message-ID: <m0wX7OZ-000LiCC@why.az.stratus.com>
References: <<1997May30.52629.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

'daver!telusplanet.net!dwightj@uunet.uu.net has written'
> 
> Hi everyone!  I'm into my recycling mode again.  I have a very ugly
> chandalier with some very nice double sided jewels.  I want to use the
> jewels to make a fireplace screen and have designed, in my mind, a
> peacock.  I want to use the jewels in the tail feathers.  This is my
> problem.  The jewels are different sizes and depths.  I will not be able
> to work this project flat.  Does anyone have any ideas or experience on
> how to assemble this creature, then solder?  Thanking you in advance. 
> Sincerely, Lorna from Canada    e mail dwightj@telusplanet.net

i've made some similar flat panels with shells. basically i've found 2 ways. 
the first is to make the panel completely without the jewels, and add them
last. the second is to make a board that has cutouts where the jewels go,
build the panel completely, and place small (sponges, rags, newspaper, etc)
under the jewels to hold them at the proper level. of course, you need two
boards; one a mirror image of the other, for when you flip the panel.

-- 
Charles Spitzer
charlie@az.stratus.com
Phoenix, AZ
----
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From owner-glass Thu May 29 09:01:56 1997
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X-Path: home.com!leestat7
From: leestat7 <leestat7@home.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: w-c field trip May 31st
Date: Thu, 29 May 1997 11:57:38 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May29.75738.0>
References: <<1997May29.33125.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: @Home Network
Precedence: bulk

Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo wrote:
> 
> Cool, cool, cool that Mr. Robert Oddy will be there with some of his othe=
> r
> glass works. 

PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE, post as much of Mr. Oddy's techniques as you can
for all of us in the hinterlands who can't join you.

Lee  Boe
Rain-Boe's Creations
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From owner-glass Thu May 29 09:30:11 1997
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X-Path: prodigy.com!TPSD52A
From: TPSD52A@prodigy.com (MRS CAROLYN M TAYLOR)
To: Glass@bungi.com
Subject: W C Video
Date: Thu, 29 May 1997 12:28:59, -0500
Message-ID: <199705291628.MAB64712@mime4.prodigy.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi Everyone! Would love to be there on Saturday but Florida is more 
than a skip and a jump. Please 
let me know if a video will be available  and the cost. Would be 
delighted to have a copy.
                                           
                                                                      
                      Carolyn
                                                                      
                       TPSD52A@Prodigy.com





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From owner-glass Thu May 29 10:52:26 1997
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X-Path: mars.ark.com!wmunro
From: wmunro@mars.ark.com (Wayne Munro)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Help please!
Date: Thu, 29 May 1997 10:51:30 -0700
Message-ID: <199705291751.KAA27494@mars.ark.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

 Dear fellow 'Bungians'....

  I am trying to do a lamp from "Charles Knapp--Designs for lamps" and he
says I need a 'Harp Size--4" '. How do I measure for this? Is it 'high' or
'wide'?
Also, I would like to mount it on a ceramic base, are there any problems
with this?

.......Wayne

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From owner-glass Thu May 29 11:02:13 1997
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X-Path: mars.ark.com!wmunro
From: wmunro@mars.ark.com (Wayne Munro)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: WC video
Date: Thu, 29 May 1997 11:01:07 -0700
Message-ID: <199705291801.LAA27997@mars.ark.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Me too. Send us the particulars on the group......Wayne

>Hi everyone, I also would love a copy of any video re: this
>presentation.  I am green with envy.  We Canadians are fairly resource
>poor.  Please let me know if this is going to fly and what cost will be
>attached.  Thanking you in advance.  Sincerely, Lorna from Canada   e
>mail dwightj@telusplanet.net
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>

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From owner-glass Thu May 29 11:02:48 1997
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X-Path: mars.ark.com!wmunro
From: wmunro@mars.ark.com (Wayne Munro)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: From chandaliers to peacocks:  jewels
Date: Thu, 29 May 1997 11:01:06 -0700
Message-ID: <199705291801.LAA27994@mars.ark.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Lorna..I am going to take a shot in the dark here but could you not treat
them as 'Joiner pieces' and put them in later? I have never done this with
these type of jewels but opens up a different idea.  Any comments from the
more experienced crafters there?
...Wayne

>Hi everyone!  I'm into my recycling mode again.  I have a very ugly
>chandalier with some very nice double sided jewels.  I want to use the
>jewels to make a fireplace screen and have designed,....

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From owner-glass Thu May 29 11:16:18 1997
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X-Path: home.com!leestat7
From: leestat7 <leestat7@home.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: W C Video
Date: Thu, 29 May 1997 14:12:18 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May29.101218.0>
References: <<199705291628.MAB64712@mime4.prodigy.com>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: @Home Network
Precedence: bulk

MRS CAROLYN M TAYLOR wrote:
> 
> Hi Everyone! Would love to be there on Saturday but Florida is more
> than a skip and a jump. Please
> let me know if a video will be available  and the cost. Would be
> delighted to have a copy.

I would like to get a copy also, great idea-
Lee Boe
Rain-Boe's Creations
>
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From owner-glass Thu May 29 11:36:46 1997
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X-Path: westbyserver.westby.mwt.net!alcamoz
From: len alcamo <alcamoz@mwt.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: From chandaliers to peacocks:  jewels
Date: Thu, 29 May 1997 13:35:02 -0500 (CDT)
Message-ID: <199705291835.NAA21976@westbyserver.westby.mwt.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

 The jewels are different sizes and depths.  I will not be able
>to work this project flat.  Does anyone have any ideas or experience on
>how to assemble this creature, then solder?  Thanking you in advance. 
>Sincerely, Lorna from Canada    e mail dwightj@telusplanet.net


Hi Lorna,

Your foiling right? I've never done any work like you describe but I do have
an idea that you might want to experiment with. Kind of an adaptation from
dalle de verre...  build a frame maybe 1 inch high fill with clean dry fine
sand, glass beads (blasting type) kitty litter or some other non-flammible
medium  get it level and then do the layout,  adjusting the height of the
pieces by gently pressing them into the medium, if it works then the flip
side would be a breeze. This is just a rough idea but maybe it can be
refined to work or maybe its totally dumb but it doesn't matter either way
cause I'm not selling anything :-)

Len 

I also enjoy working with recycled materials not originally intended for S.G.

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From owner-glass Thu May 29 12:36:29 1997
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X-Path: westbyserver.westby.mwt.net!alcamoz
From: len alcamo <alcamoz@mwt.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: From chandaliers to peacocks:  jewels
Date: Thu, 29 May 1997 13:35:02 -0500 (CDT)
Message-ID: <199705291835.NAA21976@westbyserver.westby.mwt.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

 The jewels are different sizes and depths.  I will not be able
>to work this project flat.  Does anyone have any ideas or experience on
>how to assemble this creature, then solder?  Thanking you in advance. 
>Sincerely, Lorna from Canada    e mail dwightj@telusplanet.net


Hi Lorna,

Your foiling right? I've never done any work like you describe but I do have
an idea that you might want to experiment with. Kind of an adaptation from
dalle de verre...  build a frame maybe 1 inch high fill with clean dry fine
sand, glass beads (blasting type) kitty litter or some other non-flammible
medium  get it level and then do the layout,  adjusting the height of the
pieces by gently pressing them into the medium, if it works then the flip
side would be a breeze. This is just a rough idea but maybe it can be
refined to work or maybe its totally dumb but it doesn't matter either way
cause I'm not selling anything :-)

Len 

I also enjoy working with recycled materials not originally intended for S.G.

----
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From owner-glass Thu May 29 13:29:19 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!SusieHUs
From: SusieHUs@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: W C Video
Date: Thu, 29 May 1997 16:27:20 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <1997May29.122720.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Count me in too, please.  I would really LOVE to see this on a video!

Susie
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From owner-glass Thu May 29 14:21:45 1997
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From: "Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: "INTERNET:dwightj@telusplanet.net" <dwightj@telusplanet.net>,
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: From chandaliers to peacocks:  jewels
Date: Thu, 29 May 1997 17:19:23 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May29.131923.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Sounds beautiful already.  May I suggest you leave a small section of eac=
h
tail feather open
(i.e. no glass) and hang the jewels from the apex of each openning.
=2E..Christie

Message text written by INTERNET:dwightj@telusplanet.net
>Hi everyone!  I'm into my recycling mode again.  I have a very ugly
chandalier with some very nice double sided jewels.  I want to use the
jewels to make a fireplace screen and have designed, in my mind, a
peacock.  I want to use the jewels in the tail feathers.  This is my
problem.  The jewels are different sizes and depths.  I will not be able
to work this project flat.  Does anyone have any ideas or experience on
how to assemble this creature, then solder?  Thanking you in advance. =

Sincerely, Lorna from Canada <
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From owner-glass Thu May 29 15:44:22 1997
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From: "Hilary A. Bobker" <hilary@voicenet.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Attn Philly Area Bungians
Date: Thu, 29 May 1997 17:43:59 +0000
Message-ID: <1997May29.174359.0>
References: <<1997May29.102938.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: HABit Fashion Services
Precedence: bulk

Hi, Elsie,

Glad you can join us! The demo starts at 11:00 and we are meeting
between 10:30 and 10:45 in the warehouse. There has been talk of
nametags so we know who is who, and I certainly will sport one.
Questions about how "conventioneer" a name tag is have been set aside
with the rule that there are no rules about what the name tag has to
look like!!

I'm still hyperventillating.

See you Saturday!

Hilary
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From owner-glass Thu May 29 17:09:43 1997
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X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: From chandaliers to peacocks:  jewels
Date: Thu, 29 May 1997 20:05:31 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May29.16531.0>
References: <<1997May30.52629.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

daver!telusplanet.net!dwightj wrote:
> 
> Hi everyone!  I'm into my recycling mode again.  I have a very ugly
> chandalier with some very nice double sided jewels.  I want to use the
> jewels to make a fireplace screen and have designed, in my mind, a
> peacock.  I want to use the jewels in the tail feathers.  This is my
> problem.  The jewels are different sizes and depths.  I will not be able
> to work this project flat.  Does anyone have any ideas or experience on
> how to assemble this creature, then solder?  Thanking you in advance.
> Sincerely, Lorna from Canada    e mail dwightj@telusplanet.net
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


well there are a few ways. the first is to raise the finished panel
(minus the jewels), up a little bit then solder the jewels in that way.
or hold each jewel in place and tack them in. either way it may get a
little frustrating.


---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
 New Pages Added:
 - New Instructional Guides Added!!!
 - The Creative Process
 - How to Find Patterns for Suncatchers
 - Picking Out Glass in the Store
 - 5 New Pictures in the 3-D Catagory
 - 2 New Pictures in the Panel Catagory
 - Updated Shots of The Heart of Atlantis, and Japanese Garden
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From owner-glass Thu May 29 17:56:28 1997
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X-Path: sol.racsa.co.cr!rlaval
From: Richard LaVal <rlaval@sol.racsa.co.cr>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: video of WC trip
Date: Thu, 29 May 1997 18:50:27 -0600 (CST)
Message-ID: <1.5.4.16.19970528051007.19272e6c@sol.racsa.co.cr>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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Me too!!!!!  That would be lovely!!!!  Meg

]At 10:28 AM 5/29/97 -0500, you wrote:
>>>see you all soon! wondered if cam recorder would be ok?I 
>>>could set up on tripod maybe? get all the scoop and oh maybe try to share 
>>>w/others that can't come? 
>>>Jeanne
>
>I'm only wishing that Oklahoma weren't so far away! I'm all for paying the
>cost and postage if you are able to get a good tape, Jeanne. The USPS has
>some great video mailers for Priority Mail. Let us know if it's feasible
>and what the cost would be, I'll definitely take a copy.
>LJ
>  ****************************************************************
>LJ Maas: artist@busprod.com
>ART WITH ATTITUDE Stained Glass Design
>"Unique Stained Glass Creations"
><http://www.art-with-attitude.com/glass/artglass.html>
>
>OVER THE RAINBOW Webpage Design & Consulting
><http://www.art-with-attitude.com/rainbow.html>
>----
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>
>
Richard and Meg LaVal
apdo. 24-5655
Monteverde
COSTA RICA
tel: 506 645 5052

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From owner-glass Thu May 29 19:06:21 1997
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From: "Mary Ann Dulemba" <madglass@usaor.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Re: video of WC trip
Date: Thu, 29 May 1997 22:02:05 -0400
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Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Please count me in too!

Thanks
Mary Ann

----------
> From: Richard LaVal <rlaval@sol.racsa.co.cr>
> To: glass@bungi.com
> Subject: Re: video of WC trip
> Date: Thursday, May 29, 1997 8:50 PM
> 
> Me too!!!!!  That would be lovely!!!!  Meg
> 
> ]At 10:28 AM 5/29/97 -0500, you wrote:
> >>>see you all soon! wondered if cam recorder would be ok?I 
> >>>could set up on tripod maybe? get all the scoop and oh maybe try to
share 
> >>>w/others that can't come? 
> >>>Jeanne
> >
> >I'm only wishing that Oklahoma weren't so far away! I'm all for paying
the
> >cost and postage if you are able to get a good tape, Jeanne. The USPS
has
> >some great video mailers for Priority Mail. Let us know if it's
feasible
> >and what the cost would be, I'll definitely take a copy.
> >LJ
> >  ****************************************************************
> >LJ Maas: artist@busprod.com
> >ART WITH ATTITUDE Stained Glass Design
> >"Unique Stained Glass Creations"
> ><http://www.art-with-attitude.com/glass/artglass.html>
> >
> >OVER THE RAINBOW Webpage Design & Consulting
> ><http://www.art-with-attitude.com/rainbow.html>
> >----
> >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> >To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> >
> >
> Richard and Meg LaVal
> apdo. 24-5655
> Monteverde
> COSTA RICA
> tel: 506 645 5052
> 
> ----
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From owner-glass Thu May 29 19:26:23 1997
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X-Path: telusplanet.net!dwightj
From: telusplanet.net!dwightj
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: pennies between panels
Date: Thu May 29 19:25:54 1997
Message-ID: <1997May30.17054.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi everyone,  Well, no question is a stupid one.  I was looking through
the archives and Howard suggested that when assembling a lamp, to put
pennies, top and bottom, between the panels.  Can someone explain why? 
Thanking you in advance, Lorna from Canada   e mail
dwightj@telusplanet.net
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From owner-glass Fri May 30 03:12:57 1997
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X-Path: juno.com!studioone1
From: studioone1@juno.com (Dee l Plott)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: display
Date: Fri, 30 May 1997 06:11:53 EDT
Message-ID: <1997May30.101153.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi,
I was wondering if anyone could offer suggestions.   I have done shows
for many years and am always looking to change and improve my displays. 
Does anyone have any ideas for  unusual setups they'd be willing to
share?  Also I wish the conventions would come a little closer to Florida
so we Southerners could get in on the excitement too.  PS  I am a
transplanted New Yorker out of Long Island.  Thanks for any help you can
give.

			dee 
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From owner-glass Fri May 30 04:02:47 1997
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X-Path: worldnet.att.net!ElsieTurqman
From: Elsie Turqman <ElsieTurqman@worldnet.att.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: pennies between panels
Date: Fri, 30 May 1997 11:02:18 +0000
Message-ID: <1997May30.11218.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I think these instructions are for soldering a shade without a form.  The
pennies give you the necessary space to shape the lamp.

The pennnies are inserted between the glass panels when they are lying flat
on your work table.  then you tape the panels and lift the lamp and tape the
open ends together to make the circle. You should have the correct diameter
circle drawn on you worktable.  Then you tack solder on the outside, then
solder the inside.

I have always been told that no question is stupid, just a request for help.

Elsie

At 07:25 PM 5/29/97 +0000, you wrote:
>Hi everyone,  Well, no question is a stupid one.  I was looking through
>the archives and Howard suggested that when assembling a lamp, to put
>pennies, top and bottom, between the panels.  Can someone explain why? 
>Thanking you in advance, Lorna from Canada   e mail
>dwightj@telusplanet.net
>----
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>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>

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From owner-glass Fri May 30 05:27:06 1997
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X-Path: mail.bright.net!joyce
From: glasschic <joyce@mail.bright.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: display
Date: Fri, 30 May 1997 08:26:05 -0400
Message-ID: <3.0.32.19970530082559.00688034@mail.bright.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

At 06:11 AM 5/30/97 EDT, you wrote:
>Hi,
>I was wondering if anyone could offer suggestions.   I have done shows
>for many years and am always looking to change and improve my displays. 
>Does anyone have any ideas for  unusual setups they'd be willing to
>share?  Also I wish the conventions would come a little closer to Florida
>so we Southerners could get in on the excitement too.  PS  I am a
>transplanted New Yorker out of Long Island.  Thanks for any help you can
>give.

I had a special rack made for my suncatchers that has worked rather well
over the years.  I used two sizes of lightweight galvanized conduit, had
the corner pieces welded, so I had 90 degree angles with 3 legs coming out.
 I then slide the smaller size conduit into these and form a large box.
Mine is 5 feet tall and usually about 3 feet wide, and 4 feet deep, but for
different shows, I just used different lengths of conduit.  I then cover
the top and two sides with wire fencing, and use wire to hold this into
place on the frame.  I can then hang hundreds of suncatchers on the two
ends, and I hang my larger pieces in the open spaces on the sides.  I use S
hooks to hang the suncatchers and just wire the larger pieces on.  I even
can hang some pieces from the wire across the top.  This has proved very
versatile, and when taken apart, the biggest piece is the rolled up
fencing.  I have spray painted mine gold to give it a little class.

My other display was a flea market find.  It was originally a small plant
stand with removable shelves, (all wire, not pressed metal), and the sides
folded in to make it travel flat.  It has three shelves that are at
different levels.  I used to make lots of pressed flower suncatchers and
hang them from the bottom of the wire shelves, with a light positioned
behind them.  This was a show stopping attraction, the light shining
through all those bevels!  I always put that on the isle or on the corner
if I had a corner booth.  You have to make sure to lay carpet or something
over the cord to your light source!

If you are interested in my displays, I can send you a drawing.  Please let
me know.  And happy crafting!

Garden of Glass
Joyce Moran

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From owner-glass Fri May 30 06:44:43 1997
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X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: pennies between panels
Date: Fri, 30 May 1997 09:40:52 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May30.54052.0>
References: <<1997May30.17054.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

daver!telusplanet.net!dwightj wrote:
> 
> Hi everyone,  Well, no question is a stupid one.  I was looking through
> the archives and Howard suggested that when assembling a lamp, to put
> pennies, top and bottom, between the panels.  Can someone explain why?
> Thanking you in advance, Lorna from Canada   e mail
> dwightj@telusplanet.net
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


my guess would be to mark the date of when the panel was made. imagine
having your piece last over a hundred years, besides having a priceless
piece of art, you would also have an antique penny. besides it would
make the piece a little more unique, though i would get a new penny, the
laquer it so it does'nt turn green.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
 New Pages Added:
 - New Instructional Guides Added!!!
 - The Creative Process
 - How to Find Patterns for Suncatchers
 - Picking Out Glass in the Store
 - 5 New Pictures in the 3-D Catagory
 - 2 New Pictures in the Panel Catagory
 - Updated Shots of The Heart of Atlantis, and Japanese Garden
----
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From owner-glass Fri May 30 06:48:51 1997
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X-Path: nac.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@nac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: display
Date: Fri, 30 May 1997 09:45:14 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May30.54514.0>
References: <<1997May30.101153.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Dee l Plott wrote:
> 
> Hi,
> I was wondering if anyone could offer suggestions.   I have done shows
> for many years and am always looking to change and improve my displays.
> Does anyone have any ideas for  unusual setups they'd be willing to
> share?  Also I wish the conventions would come a little closer to Florida
> so we Southerners could get in on the excitement too.  PS  I am a
> transplanted New Yorker out of Long Island.  Thanks for any help you can
> give.
> 
>                         dee
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


well, you did'nt mention what you use now. but when i was going to
artshows for a short while. i used a 2'x3' wooden box with 1/2" wire
mesh attached to the back. there were two of these that folded up like a
book. the suncatchers hung from paperclips. though if i were to hang
them now, i'd probably hang them with saftey pins, so people won't grab
them and hold them up to the light (then drop them). 

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
 New Pages Added:
 - New Instructional Guides Added!!!
 - The Creative Process
 - How to Find Patterns for Suncatchers
 - Picking Out Glass in the Store
 - 5 New Pictures in the 3-D Catagory
 - 2 New Pictures in the Panel Catagory
 - Updated Shots of The Heart of Atlantis, and Japanese Garden
----
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From owner-glass Fri May 30 08:08:17 1997
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X-Path: boffo.com!barb
From: "Barbara A. Roman" <barb@boffo.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Tiffany exhibits in D.C.
Date: Fri, 30 May 1997 11:09:49 -0400
Message-ID: <1997May30.7949.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Boffo Games, Inc.
Precedence: bulk

Hello everyone,

I'm heading to Washington D.C. this weekend and I'm planning to do lots
of museum-hopping.  Does anyone know which museums have Tiffany glass
exhibits?  Most of the photos I've seen credit "Smithsonian Collection"
or something like that, which doesn't help me find which particular
museum it's in, or if they have more than that one piece on display.

Thanks for your help,
barb
barb@boffo.com
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From owner-glass Fri May 30 08:44:40 1997
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X-Path: aol.com!StndGlass1
From: StndGlass1@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Tiffany exhibits in D.C.
Date: Fri, 30 May 1997 11:44:05 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <1997May30.7445.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

The Smithsonian's around here occasionally have Tiffany exhibits, but we are
not aware of any standing Tiffany shows in the area (Baltimore, Washington
Metro area).  What we do have are some churches that have Tiffany windows in
them.  If you would like, I'll see what I can do about getting together a
rough list of them for you.  We are doing a studio commission right now to
put new windows next to existing Tiffany windows in one area church.

Jenna Meredith
Meredith Stained Glass
www.meredithglass.com
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From owner-glass Fri May 30 09:09:46 1997
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From: seaspray@mail.island.net (Carol Swann)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: display
Date: Fri, 30 May 1997 09:08:40 -0700
Message-ID: <199705301608.JAA28090@norm.island.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

>I then cover
>the top and two sides with wire fencing, and use wire to hold this into
>place on the frame.  I can then hang hundreds of suncatchers on the two
>ends, and I hang my larger pieces in the open spaces on the sides.  I use S
>hooks to hang the suncatchers and just wire the larger pieces on.  I even
>can hang some pieces from the wire across the top.  This has proved very
>versatile, and when taken apart, the biggest piece is the rolled up
>fencing.  I have spray painted mine gold to give it a little class.

So Joyce, I'm making something similar only using invisible gillnet mesh
instead of wire...I want my catchers to essentially float.  What I'm curious
about is whether you had fish line attached to the suncatchers...did you
hang them from their line or directly from the catcher???

It seems to me that hanging direct would be more secure, but then there's
all those odd hanging lines looking like spaghetti???

Please clarify. TIA

Carol 
Synergy Glass & Creative

PS I have been using an interesting tree branch sprayed black to provide a
3-D display for my small suncatchers...again I run into the spaghetti thing.


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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
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Subject: Re: From chandaliers to peacocks:  jewels
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Hi Lorna (and All)
YES! I am back again.... Have done my tax return (phew!); am on the 
tail-end of my computer course and am in the middle of recovering from 
constipation due to over-eating for a whole week (it was my birthday 
yesterday.... and I have one dinner-invitation after another...)
Chandeliers - hmm well, I brought one back from Sweden some years ago 
left to me by my dearly departed Papa (and left to him by HIS Papa, 
who had been left it by HIS..... and so on); it had about 250 crystal 
pieces in it, I wrapped them all up individually in toilet paper and 
then the whole "shebang" in one of his old bath robes and planted it 
onto the front passenger seat of my car. When I arrived at Customs in 
UK and they asked me what was in the front seat, I answered totally 
honestly "An 18th Century Crystal chandelier, Officer" - they didn't believe 
me !!!!  With the result that I got it into UK and sold it  through Christies 
Auction Rooms a while later.  In total it measured about 3 feet from 
top to bottom. Had I even attempted to install it in my low-slung 
cottage in UK (where everyone taller than 5'10" would have to "duck" 
to avoid hitting the top of the door beams), it would have brought my 
 ceiling down with a crash through the sheer weight of the beast.......

Peacocks.... now that  IS a different matter! I have used both jewels 
and circles I have cut out within the same panel. Have a look on my 
WEB-page for 2 rather large and magnificent beasts, spread over 4 
panels.  I am currently also supervising one of my students who is 
making another peacock (on a much smaller scale). I used excatly the 
same technique that Mike Savad suggested and it worked fine with me.
Go for it, says I...!!!
Good Luck!
Let me know if I can help!
Elisabeth 'n Toby

Lorna wrote:
 I have a very ugly
> chandalier with some very nice double sided jewels.  I want to use the
> jewels to make a fireplace screen and have designed, in my mind, a
> peacock.  I want to use the jewels in the tail feathers.  This is my
> problem.  The jewels are different sizes and depths.  I will not be able
> to work this project flat.  Does anyone have any ideas or experience on
> how to assemble this creature, then solder?  Thanking you in advance.
Mike Savad wrote:
well there are a few ways. the first is to raise the finished panel
(minus the jewels), up a little bit then solder the jewels in that way.
or hold each jewel in place and tack them in. either way it may get a
little frustrating.


----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
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Hi Dani,
Thank you so much for your delightful e-mail. Please forgive me for 
the delay in replying.... The "cyperspace" is so quick it often 
doesn't give me time enough to "mull things over".
"Master's Certificate", hhmmm, well yes,.... compare this with old 
age. Old age means a bit of pain. Take that pain and compare it what 
it must feel like to deliver up your backside to the mercy of a 
tattoo artist. Probably comparable (I think!!!)
I visualize myself in the hands of a "world-renowned tattoo artist 
delivering up my back-side to be delicately inscribed with "I LOVE 
Manchester United Football Club"
OUCCHHHH!!!!
I think I might think the matter over again!
Much Love
Elisabeth 'n Toby (who has no tattoo - he doesn't subscribe to 
PAIN!!)

you wrote:

Thanks for the feedback - already have 'em on the list.  Too bad so many of
the oldies but goodies are out-of-print, though.  Every glass artist ought
to have copies of those for reference. I sent a letter to Dover suggesting
they publish "Stained Glass" (there's an original title!) and the Reytiens
book (Technique of Stained Glass - another inspiring title).  I'd also love
to get my hands on any of Lewis F. Day's books, if anyone out there has any
spares lying around!

Oh, and congratulations on your certification.  I don't think we have
anything like that here in the U.S.... or maybe we do (?)  Maybe Albert
knows - how do glass artists officially become "masters" over here?  Or,
unofficially for that matter.  Is it the same path as becoming a
"world-renowned" tattoo artist?  (I have one up the street from me, no
kidding!) I think it would enhance the validity of this old and fine craft
if we had a serious apprentice/journeyman/master certification program. 
Isn't that what guilds are for, in part?

----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
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From owner-glass Fri May 30 09:54:46 1997
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
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Subject: Re: Reading Materials - Isenberg books
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Hi Dani (and all)
Please forgive me again for taking such long time in replying to mail 
. I have had rather a "plate-ful" these last 2 weeks.
YES, I have several of the Isenberg books.... Can I help???
You are right about questionning them. Nevertheless, yes, they are a 
"product of their time" and valid on that score. I have used them as 
back-ground material in my own teaching, as the enthusiasm DOES come 
across to beginners who still struggle with trying to cut ANY shape 
out of a sheet of clear "greenhouse glass".
It's interesting that you should echo "across the Pond" what I have 
felt so very much about the 60's over here. I went to Cambridge the 
other day and spent an hour or so on my knees "rummaging" in the 
largets art book shop there for further reading materials in stained 
glass. (.... and oh YES, the inevitable Ed Sibbett Jr. book on 
Victorian stained glass was there......    :-(     ).
There ARE one or two NEW books  written and published over here, one 
by Sarah Brown ( who is a senior member of the British Society of 
Master Glass Painters). But the whole thing is, whatever is written and 
published NOW seem to be poor "echoes" of  previous  authoritative 
books - in particular THE one I have mentioned so many times before 
"Stained Glass" by Lawrence Lee, George Seddon, Francis Stephens. 
This book to me, will remain the most authoritative modern "Bible" 
for stained glass. For medevial history, you just cannot beat 
Theophilus "On Divers Arts".
my 2 cents worth......
Elisabeth 'n Toby (newly clipped and COOOOOOL)

Dani wrote:
Sean-

Re: the Isenberg stained glass books, you might be right about them being a
"product of the times"!  Anyone who thinks the 16th century was bad ought
to take a look at the sixties.  

I did some further searching over the weekend at bookstores and didn't find
very much except pattern books. Several of the stores, though, had very
recent publications by Lynnette Wrigley and Marc Gerstein that IMNSHO were
very good especially for beginners and especially dealing with copper foil.
 What impressed me most was the quality of the photography and of the
designs -- even the suncatchers were quite nice.( Elisabeth, I think these
folks are working in the UK - have you heard of them?)  These are the types
of books that will inspire a newcomer, not turn them off.  I'll include
them on the reading list which I'll be glad to post in a week or so since
quite a few of you have requested copies.  It's still a pretty sparse list,
but I haven't given up the search.  The trouble is, I keep finding good art
history books as I search, and it's starting to hurt my pocketbook!

----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
----
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From owner-glass Fri May 30 09:55:20 1997
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
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Dani,
Yes true, the photos are not all that, but they do make it up with 
enthusiasm.......
What's to stop you using that and taking your OWN photos.....
Elisabeth 'n Toby

Dani wrote:
I'm familiar with the Isenberg books and already have them on the reading
list.  Overall, they are pretty concise, but just between you, me, and 300
other Bungi members, I hate the photos. Many (if not most) of the examples
of stained glass are just plain bad from an artistic stand-point.       


----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
----
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From owner-glass Fri May 30 10:27:38 1997
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Subject: Re: a little personal history 
Date: Fri, 30 May 1997 10:26:07 -0700
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Yegnim@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Lorna,
> I am very intrigued by the "glass house" you built where you keep your
> crystals.  Is the house 3-d or flat?  It sounds breathtaking when the sun
> hits.  Could you explain the house in detail to me?  Have any photos of it?
>  Tried to e-mail your address but it came back unmailed due to an address
> problem.
> Eleanor
> ----
Hi,
I too am interested in your creation. Please e-mail me too! 
Melissa
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From owner-glass Fri May 30 14:16:10 1997
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From: glasschic <joyce@mail.bright.net>
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Subject: Re: display
Date: Fri, 30 May 1997 17:14:45 -0400
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>So Joyce, I'm making something similar only using invisible gillnet mesh
>instead of wire...I want my catchers to essentially float.  What I'm curious
>about is whether you had fish line attached to the suncatchers...did you
>hang them from their line or directly from the catcher???

I hung them directly from the suncatcher.  In my area, I've heard not so
nice comments when I use any kind of fish line.  People here want chain,
chain, chain!!!

>It seems to me that hanging direct would be more secure, but then there's
>all those odd hanging lines looking like spaghetti???

Since the suncatchers hand directly on the fencing, I don't have that
effect.  And when I hang my larger pieces from the two other sides, I use
chain.

>PS I have been using an interesting tree branch sprayed black to provide a
>3-D display for my small suncatchers...again I run into the spaghetti thing.


Hmmm that would be interesting.  But why not attach the suncatchers
directly to the branches, with either large S hooks, or the large Safety
pins Mike was suggesting.

Garden of Glass
Joyce Moran

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From owner-glass Fri May 30 15:39:16 1997
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X-Path: juno.com!studioone1
From: studioone1@juno.com (Dee l Plott)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: display
Date: Fri, 30 May 1997 18:36:29 EDT
Message-ID: <1997May30.223629.0>
References: <<3.0.32.19970530082559.00688034@mail.bright.net>>
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Hi Joyce,
I would love to see a pic of your display.  It sounds unique and very eye
catching. I really appreciate your response.  My address is Throught the
Looking Glass, 10776 Knottingby Court, Jacksonville, Florida  32257.  
Thanks again.     dee
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From owner-glass Fri May 30 15:40:09 1997
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X-Path: telusplanet.net!dwightj
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Subject: a little personal history
Date: Fri May 30 15:38:43 1997
Message-ID: <1997May31.131343.0>
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Hi Melissa and everyone,  Please e mail me your mailing address and I'll
send a picture of the glass house also.  I don't have an operable
scanner.  I have had several requests for photos.  I'm having prints of
the negatives made now and anticipate they'll be in the mail by
Tuesday.  If you decide to make a similiar window, the only thing that I
ask is that you send me a photo of your creation!  Sincerely, Lorna from
Canada   correct e mail address is: dwightj@telusplanet.net
----
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From owner-glass Fri May 30 15:50:18 1997
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Subject: display
Date: Fri May 30 15:49:51 1997
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Hi everyone,  The nicest display that I have seen for hanging
suncatchers was an antique china cabinet that had a mirror back and
lighting added.  The suncatchers were hung with fishing line.  The doors
of the cabinet were made out of bevels and clear glass.  The only
problem with this display was the difficulty moving it, as it was the
size of the Incredible Hulk.  Sincerely, Lorna from Canada  e mail: 
dwightj@telusplanet.net
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From owner-glass Fri May 30 18:53:39 1997
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From: seaspray@mail.island.net (Carol Swann)
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Re: display
Date: Fri, 30 May 1997 18:52:42 -0700
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>I hung them directly from the suncatcher.  In my area, I've heard not so
>nice comments when I use any kind of fish line.  People here want chain,
>chain, chain!!!

Yes, I always use chain for my larger pieces, anything that's larger than
about 8-10", but you know the bread and butter stuff, the small
suncatchers... do you sell these without anything to hang them then?  Around
here they always seem to come with fish line attached for hanging. 

I'd love to not have them on fish line, just use hooks (or safety
pins)...much easier for transport and display, but don't people want the
line???? or is this just somehow the norm in my area.

I'd love to hear more about how this.

Cheers
Carol


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From owner-glass Fri May 30 19:23:10 1997
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From: "Wallace, Paul" <glass@nobleco.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
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dows in
> them.  If you would like, I'll see what I can do about getting together a
> rough list of them for you.  We are doing a studio commission right now to
> put new windows next to existing Tiffany windows in one area church.
> 

Why not everybody contribute is you know where there are tiffany 
windows. Perhaps a list could by put together for travelers.

My Contributions are:

The  Old Blanford Church in Petersburg Va.  (well worth the visit 
they have about 12 or 14 windows)

The Putnam United Presbyterian Church in Zanesville, Ohio  has one.

  

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From owner-glass Fri May 30 20:46:06 1997
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From: glasschic <joyce@mail.bright.net>
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Subject: Re: display
Date: Fri, 30 May 1997 23:45:03 -0400
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Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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>Yes, I always use chain for my larger pieces, anything that's larger than
>about 8-10", but you know the bread and butter stuff, the small
>suncatchers... do you sell these without anything to hang them then?  Around
>here they always seem to come with fish line attached for hanging. 
>
>I'd love to not have them on fish line, just use hooks (or safety
>pins)...much easier for transport and display, but don't people want the
>line???? or is this just somehow the norm in my area.

Sorry, but I've never been able to sell stuff with fishing line attached.
I've always used chain.  Even for the small stuff.

Garden of Glass
Joyce Moran

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From owner-glass Sat May 31 00:33:28 1997
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From: David Cansler <dcans@earthlink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Help Please
Date: Thu, 29 May 1997 17:33:28 -0400
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Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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Hi a friend, who is not on-line, is in bad need of some Wissmach
W3M901L: Large White Mottle Opal.
She is trying to repair a really large light fixture and can't find any.
If anyone has any they would be willing to sell or if you know where she
can get some please e-mail:
dcans@earthlink.net
She can't get it from Wissmach because they have a contract with someone
in China for all they can produce.

Thanks a lot,
David Cansler
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From owner-glass Sat May 31 01:32:37 1997
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From: David Cansler <dcans@earthlink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Some Help Please
Date: Fri, 30 May 1997 08:44:00 -0400
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Hi a friend, who is not on-line, is in bad need of some Wissmach
W3M901L: Large White Mottle Opal.
She is trying to repair a really large light fixture and can't find any.
If anyone has any they would be willing to sell or if you know where she
can get some please e-mail:
dcans@earthlink.net
She can't get it from Wissmach because they have a contract with someone
in China for all they can produce.

Thanks a lot,
David Cansler
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From owner-glass Sat May 31 06:40:24 1997
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Subject:      Re: display
Date:         Sat, 31 May 97 09:35:23 EDT
Message-ID:   <970531.093941.EDT.HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu>
References: <<199705310152.SAA25324@norm.island.net>>
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i thik that chain on a small piece is overwhelming...and no matter what
length of chain you put on, it's always the wrong length.  So I make my pices
with sturdy loops that will hold fishline or chain.  I generally carry
some chain with me (and pliers) and will attach whatever the customer
wants.

      Dorothy

--
Dorothy Kalahan, Interlibrary Loan  (860) 679-2940  FAX (860) 679-4046
UCONN Health Center Library, POB 4003, Farmington CT 06034-4003
HCLADM02@UConnVM.uconn.edu
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From owner-glass Sat May 31 07:20:08 1997
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From: Vafi5@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: grinder question
Date: Sat, 31 May 1997 10:19:42 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <1997May31.61942.0>
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Hi I'm quite new to stained glass and so  I was interested to hear that
different types of glass required a different bit. Could you tell me what
glass needs what bit or would it be hard to list? Even ifyou could give me a
few  I'd be very happy.Thanks.VAFI5@AOL.COM.
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From owner-glass Sat May 31 07:36:37 1997
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From: Vafi5@aol.com
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Subject: Re: kilns
Date: Sat, 31 May 1997 10:36:10 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <1997May31.63610.0>
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         Hi,
        I would like to get more info. on that product
too.Thanks.VAFI5@AOL.COM
  
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From owner-glass Sat May 31 07:47:19 1997
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From: Vafi5@aol.com
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Subject: Re: Sale of used reference material
Date: Sat, 31 May 1997 10:46:50 -0400 (EDT)
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           Me too.Thanks.VAFI5@AOL.COM.
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From owner-glass Sat May 31 07:51:15 1997
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From: Vafi5@aol.com
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Subject: Re: Glass shop video rentals
Date: Sat, 31 May 1997 10:50:52 -0400 (EDT)
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Could you send me more info. about the rates etc.Thanks.VAFI5@AOL.COM
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From owner-glass Sat May 31 18:56:28 1997
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From: "Hilary A. Bobker" <hilary@voicenet.com>
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Subject: What A Day!
Date: Sat, 31 May 1997 20:57:30 +0000
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Hi, Everybody,

Whew, where to start? Our trip to Warner-Crivellaro was toooooo good!!
Robert Oddy in person is astounding, the guy has no idea how brilliant
he is. Marianne and Charles welcomed us like we were friends coming over
to their house. They had cakes and bagels and fruit! Angelo was totally
entertaining, but that's a whole 'nother story.

Christie is going to write up a real organized article, but it's going
to take longer than a minute to do that, so in the meantime, my
meanderings are going to have to do.

Mr. Oddy brought along his serpent panel. If you go over to his web page
and take a look to refresh your memory, some of this will probably make
more sense. The bark edges have been sealed and saturated with Elmer's
glue. The back has been trimmed flat and  flat board has been put behind
it with the edge routed out to create the U-shaped frame needed to hold
the glass. When you have multiple layers of glass, standard framing
rarely does the job!

Looking at the panel straight on with light behind it, one has the sense
that it is flat with some sort of mystical depth built in. Getting
close, one can see the multiple layers that make up the piece. There is
no area in the panel that has more than three layers, however. The
leaves on the tree are on top and behind. The shadow on the serpant's
body is layers of glass. The bark on the tree is pieces that do not lay
flat but are slightly raised off one plane to create depth. Angelo
called it faceted. Mr. Oddy called it "ragtime!"

Why to use layers?
...to bleed out a lead line.  When you see a lead line in his or
Tiffany's work that is not hard, it is because it is behind another
layer of glass which softens the line.
...add shading and shadow. See above about serpent's body.
...to mix colors. Looking for just the right green and can't find it?
Try putting one color over another to vary the shade.
...superimposing an image. If you want one image to float on another
one, try layers.
...sculptural effects. By shading an object with layers of glass, you
can give it dimension.

Some of the problems you are going to need to cope with:
...starting with a completely designed piece is virtually impossible.
Start with the main image and build out from there.
...moisture build up between layers.
...layers on top of each other must be cut very accurately.
...foil on back pieces needs to be thinner than top layer.
...everything must be spotlessly clean and dry before assembly.
...flux and lead spitting between layers.
...the piece will not lay flat on the table, so you have to watch
bowing.
...the weight of the different layers is not carried directly thru the
piece and support will have to be provided.
...framing is a problem.
...interior patina needs to be applied while the surface is still
exposed as after it is buried it will be impossible to get to.
...the back is going to be ugly if you are used to a nice beaded back.

Speaking of beading, don't. Not until all the layers are assembled.
Otherwise the layers are not going to lay flat on one another.

I can't say too much about Mr. Oddy and the folks at W-C. They were all
incredible. And he will be back. I trust I am not talking out of line,
but since they announced it today, I'll take the ball and run. The
weekend of Aug 23-24, W-C is having an expo to make up for all of us who
weren't allowed into the Baltimore show. They are getting all the
manufacturers to come and show us their new stuff and glass. They are
also going to get artists to come and show their stuff and Mr. Oddy is
on that list. If Angelo has anything to say about it there will be a hot
air balloon. If Charles' voice of reason prevails, there won't be.
Details will be announced and posted here and on the W-C website.
http://www.warner-criv.com/

Angelo is going to be on Ricki Lake. Ask him about the story. I've
already heard it 7 times!;-}

And last but not least, bungi.com was well represented and it was great
to have faces to go with names. There wasn't one stinker in the
bunch!<g> Lucille won the longest distance traveled prize (110 miles)!
And there were several people there who didn't know about the list but
took the address to sign up!

I'm out of breath. Someone else who was there best take over.

Take care,
Hilary

p.s. no one asked how to clean the panel.
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