From owner-glass Tue Oct  1 08:17:41 1996
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From: "Peggy W. Johnsen" <edupjohn@slonet.org>
To: Toby <toby@northlights.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Indian chief design
Date: Tue, 1 Oct 1996 08:12:22 -0700 (PDT)
Message-ID: <1996Oct1.11222.0>
References: <<199610010112.CAA17710@linux.nildram.co.uk>>
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Hi Elizabeth and Toby:  You did give sufficient clues on how to handle the
client and get her input UP FRONT.  After asking you to provide more
clues, I can only say Thank You.  That was definitely better.  Peggy.

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From owner-glass Tue Oct  1 08:23:24 1996
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@mars.superlink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Indian chief design
Date: Tue, 01 Oct 1996 11:15:48 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct1.71548.0>
References: <<1996Sep30.184917.0>>
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Joyce Moran wrote:
> 
> Duh!  yes I finally thought about surfing and came up with several great
> pictures of good looking chiefs, as well as one sourpus chief with a
> great looking headdress, I'm getting my brother's copy of Dancing with
> Wolves, and am eagerly looking forward to receiving info from a few
> other sources.  The lady is vacationing in Fl for two weeks, so I have a
> while now to work on it.  I think this final drawing will be a composite
> of many different ideas taken from many different sources?  Is that
> still copyright infringement, Albert?  The photos I found on the net
> were taken in the 1800's of the actual chiefs, wouldn't that be public
> domain by now?
> 
> I will abide by the letter of the law, but am not expecting to make an
> exact copy of anything...just using these for inspiration.
> 
> So thanks for all your help...I think we can lay this one to rest for
> now.
> 
> Garden of Glass
> Joyce Moran
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

the way i feel about the copyrights is this. since your reproducing it
in a different medium it should'nt count. especialy since it is glass,
it would look nothing like the original photo. however if you were to do
the coke symbol and sell it i might worry then. here at home i have a
couple of file cabinets worth of pictures from magazines, (acually my
mothers, she paints), this is our refrence section when we need to find
a picture of something. and when i see a photo i never think of
copyrights, unless it's a famous place or picture, which anyone can
identify and prove it's thier own. so i say if you find a good picture
that you can use, use it, i don't think anyone would notice.

---Mike Savad

-- 
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http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
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From owner-glass Tue Oct  1 10:55:25 1996
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From: Linda Campbell <lcbell@memach.com>
To: "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Coke and Paint: was: Indian chief design
Date: Tue, 1 Oct 1996 13:55:24 -0400
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Mike said


the way i feel about the copyrights is this. since your reproducing it
in a different medium it should'nt count. especialy since it is glass,
it would look nothing like the original photo. however if you were to do
the coke symbol . . . . . .

Mike,Funny you should mention COKE! I just drew a Coke bottle last night, 
actural size so I can make my sister a Coke bottle night light. This one 
will be the old all green coke bottle with white paint for the lettering 
and the bottle will be empty.  Yes, even the "curvy" bottle is copyrighted. 
I was toying with the idea of making another for a collector here at the 
office with two layers, green glass over Rootbeer colored to get the effect 
of a full bottle. Guess I can give them away but I can't sell them, eh?

Does Anyone have any experience with the paints for use on glass? Can I get 
something opaque enough the do the Coca-Cola?

Linda Campbell

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From owner-glass Tue Oct  1 14:29:41 1996
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@mars.superlink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Coke and Paint: was: Indian chief design
Date: Tue, 01 Oct 1996 17:23:22 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct1.132322.0>
References: <<1996Oct1.95524.0>>
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Linda Campbell wrote:
> 
> Mike said
> 
> the way i feel about the copyrights is this. since your reproducing it
> in a different medium it should'nt count. especialy since it is glass,
> it would look nothing like the original photo. however if you were to do
> the coke symbol . . . . . .
> 
> Mike,Funny you should mention COKE! I just drew a Coke bottle last night,
> actural size so I can make my sister a Coke bottle night light. This one
> will be the old all green coke bottle with white paint for the lettering
> and the bottle will be empty.  Yes, even the "curvy" bottle is copyrighted.
> I was toying with the idea of making another for a collector here at the
> office with two layers, green glass over Rootbeer colored to get the effect
> of a full bottle. Guess I can give them away but I can't sell them, eh?
> 
> Does Anyone have any experience with the paints for use on glass? Can I get
> something opaque enough the do the Coca-Cola?
> 
> Linda Campbell
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

i guess you could sell it as long as you don't call it a coca-cola
bottle, or the person is'nt going to advertise for your with that
bottle. however i think (i'm not a legal expert) if you made the bottle
with the little coke wave they really can't prove it's their symbol.
kinda like O.J. simpson saying that an orange juice company stole his
name that he tried to copyright. 

---Mike Savad

-- 
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http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
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From owner-glass Tue Oct  1 15:57:30 1996
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Update 1 and Thanks 1 - MSDS sheets (Health)
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@mail.nildram.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 1 Oct 1996 23:31:09 +0000
Message-ID: <199610012255.XAA23321@linux.nildram.co.uk>
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Dear ALL,

Frustrated by British inertia, ignorance and "not-my-responsibility"- 
type attitude, I turned in desperation to ask for your help last 
April/May. .
My Problem: My friend, Susan, forcedto take early 
retirement  as Head of Art Department in a secondary 
school in UK, on grounds of ill health.
She contracted asthma and lung congestion in her work-place, because 
her  school - faced with a financial squeeze - decided that 
spending on computers was more  important than spending money 
on basic hygiene, cleaning and health and safety.Hence,  dust and irritants
accumulated in the Art Dept accumulated from one year to the next and
 nobody did anything about it; not even basic cleaning. In addition,  Art Dept staff 
was cut back person by person, year after year.
My friend Susan finally succumbed; I spent 2 years nursing her, carrying her up
and down stairs,and all else. 

Now 3 years on we are suing the school (and therefore the County)..
I am putting it all together, phrasing it and "smelling out where 
all the catches are. Susan has seen several specialists, had a number 
of tests at THE  Lung Hospital in the UK - The Brompton Hospital in London.
The long and the short of it is, the specialists and the lawyers have 
agreed that  provided we have documentation on all the substances used, 
there is a 95% certainty case. The school does not possess a single MSDS sheet 
on ANY material or substance used in the school by pupils and/or teachers. 
It's safety rep had no idea what's  expected of him; sorry - he said - I 
am only the safety rep, because nobody else wants the job. I am too 
busy teaching to get involved in these issues. I am only safety rep 
by "default". So no joy there.
So make a list of products used in "an Art Department" and then ask the
 manufacturers to supply the MSDS sheets.
 Easy, you think.....
It wasn't!

The ideas, suggestions, help, information, lists and goodness knows what else 
started pouring in from you all. With the weight of ALL you fed me with, I was
 able to "lean" a little more forcibly on the UK manufacturers and 
distributors (often of American produced products..)
This afternoon, September 30th, Susan and I finally sealed up a 
parcel of MSDS sheets (in UK called HASAWA-sheets) and posted it to the Union
 Lawyers. It measured 3 inches thick! The tabular,  tightly typed "Summary" sheet
 runs into 6 pages; of products still missing MSDS-sheets to 2 fully typed pages.
 It cost us $30 to send it 65 miles. 
It's been a marathon. I could not have achieved this without your help!
Thank You , Thank You, Thank You!
There is one particular person I would like to single out. She is 
usually up to her eye balls in work, work. She is pulled at from a 
multitude of directions. I have tried very hard to draw on her time 
as little as possible. 
Monona - it is you. Thank you. Thanks for  your ideas, encouragements and 
helpful suggestions.  I forwarded your "tongue-in-cheek" idea about preparing a 
" Press Pack" - adding no comment.   Let's see what happens.
YES, there will be more questions - I did say this would be a long 
business. Whatever questions come along, I  will deal with when 
they happen. I know I can depend on all of you, when I am stuck.

The bi-product of all of this: I have compiled a list of substances, 
producers and MSDS sheets used in an Art Department of a secondary 
school ( i.e. teaching children between 11-18). I have even listed 
frequency of usage. A lot of us teach, adults OR children.  I will be 
very happy to share my research with any of you, who may require it.
I know that my "angle" is British orientated, but the hazards are 
still the same.  (And I mean REAL hazards here - not the odd cut  
piece of flesh or the  amputated finger...).Over half of it, also shared 
with stained glass people, as I discovered.
So let me know, if this might be useful to you...

We probably won't hear a squeak out of the Union Lawyer (too busy recovering
 from the heart attack) for some time..  3 inches is a lot of paper to read through.......
In April/May I promised you to keep you up-dated. This is it.
The pre-amble is for you guys who weren't with us then.
Thanks - a thousand times Thanks. You are really a bunch of great 
people.
 Next progress report to follow probably next January....
Just Elisabeth
----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
----
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From owner-glass Tue Oct  1 15:57:32 1996
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Message only, non-stained glass
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@mail.nildram.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 1 Oct 1996 23:31:09 +0000
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Malcolm Spann,
Have tried to reply to your e-mail. Keeps on bouncing back as "user 
unknown". Had the same problem with you, before your travels, if you 
remember.. Will keep on trying.
Elisabeth 'n Toby
----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
----
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From owner-glass Tue Oct  1 18:24:23 1996
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From: ANLGlass@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: splash guard
Date: Tue, 1 Oct 1996 21:22:26 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct1.172226.0>
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My splash guard was made about 7 years when we renovated our kitchen.  The
new
appliances (dishwasher, trash compactor) came with 3 or 4 different colored
panels 
that could be used to customize the appliance.  I took 3 of the trash
compactor
panels and taped them together.  (Just had to replace the tape this year!)
 When they get gunky with glass dust I just spray them off.

Speaking of grinders, I had a problem recently grinding GNA.  The backs of
the pieces got really scratched.  I assume it was from moving them across the
grinder
surface where there must have been glass gunk.  Is this typical?  Are my
grinder-
cleaning habits too sloppy?  I do try to clean the surface before I start
grinding a
project, but I don't do it every day.

- Marilyn Kaminski
A New Light
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From owner-glass Tue Oct  1 18:27:00 1996
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From: ANLGlass@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Do stepping stones scratch?
Date: Tue, 1 Oct 1996 21:26:28 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct1.172628.0>
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I've gotten a lot of good feedback about the stepping stones I've made, but
the
universal question is:  "Don't they get scratched?"  (Actually this comes
right after
"Don't they break?")  I've come up with a good answer for the breaking
question, but the scratching question has me stumped.  (I've never had one
out long enough to see
how they wear.)  Do they scratch?  Is there some type of sealer to use that
prevents or minimizes it?  Or what's a good answer to the question?

- Marilyn Kaminski
A New Light
----
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From owner-glass Tue Oct  1 19:00:47 1996
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@mars.superlink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: splash guard
Date: Tue, 01 Oct 1996 21:55:54 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct1.175554.0>
References: <<1996Oct1.172226.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

ANLGlass@aol.com wrote:
> 
> My splash guard was made about 7 years when we renovated our kitchen.  The
> new
> appliances (dishwasher, trash compactor) came with 3 or 4 different colored
> panels
> that could be used to customize the appliance.  I took 3 of the trash
> compactor
> panels and taped them together.  (Just had to replace the tape this year!)
>  When they get gunky with glass dust I just spray them off.
> 
> Speaking of grinders, I had a problem recently grinding GNA.  The backs of
> the pieces got really scratched.  I assume it was from moving them across the
> grinder
> surface where there must have been glass gunk.  Is this typical?  Are my
> grinder-
> cleaning habits too sloppy?  I do try to clean the surface before I start
> grinding a
> project, but I don't do it every day.
> 
> - Marilyn Kaminski
> A New Light
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

yeah i have that problem too. that is just too soft, it may even be
happening as you grind. i guess if it was critical that no scratches
exist, (usally is) maybe if you put masking tape on the back of the
glass, like a resist (only cheaper). maybe that could work. i've tried
to clean the grinder but that usally does'nt help much.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
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From owner-glass Tue Oct  1 21:43:36 1996
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From: "Malcolm Spann" <M.SPANN@concentric.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject:       Re: Message only, non-stained glass
Summary: Authenticated sender is <MSPANN@POP3.CONCENTRIC.NET>
Date:          Tue, 1 Oct 1996 21:41:19 +0000
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To 'Toby' (& Elisabeth)

Hey there.  Don't know what the problem is with the messages 'bouncing 
back'.  The address should be:

                         MSPANN@CRIS.COM

or, perhaps:

                         MSPANN@POP3.CONCENTRIC.NET

Please try both.  I've sent messages to myself (kind of vain, don't 
you think?) at the first, and gets to me.  Don't know.

If all else fails, you can reach me at my CompuServe address, which 
is:

102515.2265@compuserve.com

Keep trying <G>.  And give Toby a bug hug for me!

Malcolm
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From owner-glass Wed Oct  2 01:51:23 1996
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From: jc@crosfield.co.uk (Jerry Cullingford)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Do stepping stones scratch?
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 09:50:20 +0100 (BST)
Message-ID: <9610020850.AA12895@crosfield.co.uk>
References: <<1996Oct1.172628.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

> 
> I've gotten a lot of good feedback about the stepping stones I've made, but
> the
> universal question is:  "Don't they get scratched?"
> Do they scratch?  Is there some type of sealer to use that
> prevents or minimizes it?  Or what's a good answer to the question?
> 
> - Marilyn Kaminski

Hmm. Can you scratch glass? Yes, you certainly can, as the inside of my
aquarium demonstrated when I got a bit of gravel caught in the algae
scrubber :-). Quartz (in various forms) is a fairly common rock, hardness
8 on the Mohs scale, and that's hard enough to scratch glass. Sealant is
unlikely to help, I suspect - it'd probably be softer and easier to scratch
than the glass. On the other hand, unless you're scraping a sharp pebble
across it, I'd *guess* that you're more likely to see gradual wear to a
semi-matt finish than deep scratches. That seems to be what's happening to
the glass inlay on a design in our local market. (It's a maze/picture of
Henry VIII, mainly brick, with occasional glass blocks for "jewels".)

-Jerry 


-- 
   _|_   Jerry Cullingford      jc@crosfield.co.uk      (Work)
  / |    Hemel Hempstead, UK    jc@selune.demon.co.uk   (Home)
  \_|_                          jerry@shell.portal.com  (alternate)
\__/                            www.selune.demon.co.uk  (soon)
----
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From owner-glass Wed Oct  2 02:05:07 1996
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From: jc@crosfield.co.uk (Jerry Cullingford)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Coke and Paint
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 10:04:06 +0100 (BST)
Message-ID: <9610020904.AA12989@crosfield.co.uk>
References: <<1996Oct1.95524.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Linda asked: 
> Does Anyone have any experience with the paints for use on glass? Can I get 
> something opaque enough the do the Coca-Cola?

You should be able to find something opaque - maybe enamel? that's certainly
opaque enough, but whether it adheres to glass...

On the other hand, while that would work for something lit from the front,
it'll show up black when lit from behind, which may not be what you want.
If you really want white and green when backlit, you may need to go for
clear glass with translucent white and translucent green paint, or white
opal glass with transparent green paint. (or a more complex white/green
multipiece glass design).

-- 
   _|_   Jerry Cullingford      jc@crosfield.co.uk      (Work)
  / |    Hemel Hempstead, UK    jc@selune.demon.co.uk   (Home)
  \_|_                          jerry@shell.portal.com  (alternate)
\__/                            www.selune.demon.co.uk  (soon)
----
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From owner-glass Wed Oct  2 03:45:08 1996
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From: "Albert Lewis [IGGA]" <70544.3642@CompuServe.COM>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: Coke and Paint: was:
Date: 02 Oct 96 06:42:29 EDT
Message-ID: <1996Oct2.104229.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


> the way i feel about the copyrights is this. since your reproducing it > in a
different medium it should'nt count. especialy since it is glass,

Hmm.  Not quite, methinks. <s>  Famous sculptor (have forgotten his name, but
he's very contemporary and married that Italian porn star who became an Italian
politician?) used as the basis for a sculpture a photograph taken by someone
else (a gaggle of puppies gathered up in someone's arms) and had his shorts sued
off.  Just because you produce a copyrighted, trademarked item in another medium
won't protect you from the allegation of infringement, although to be honest,
it's unlikely Coca-Cola's going to sue an individual for doing something on the
order you're discussing.  On the other hand, if you were to go into production,
manufacturing thousands of the item for sale throughout the U.S. and the world,
you betcha Coke'd sue. <s>

Albert
                __________________________________________
                Albert Lewis            Executive Director
                International Guild of Glass Artists, Inc.
                __________________________________________
                     http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/

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From owner-glass Wed Oct  2 05:29:48 1996
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From:         mail <HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu>
To:           glass@bungi.com
Subject:      Re: Coke and Paint: was: Indian chief design
Date:         Wed, 02 Oct 96 08:20:54 EDT
Message-ID:   <961002.082812.EDT.HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu>
References: <<1996Oct1.95524.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

When creating a stained glass work from a photo or a painting, I suspect
that what you are doing is creating a "derivative" work, which is still
covered by copyright...but if you aren't churning out hundreds to sell,
I wouldn't worry.  As for using several pictures in composite, I don't
know when it stops being derivative and simply becomes inspiration.
As for the Coke bottle, that I believe is covered under Trademark.
(So, here's a hypothetical...a client asks you to make Mickey Mouse
suncatcher.  Will pay, say, $40.  Do you even try to get permission
from Disney?)

--
Dorothy Kalahan, Interlibrary Loan  (860) 679-2940  FAX (860) 679-4046
UCONN Health Center Library, POB 4003, Farmington CT 06034-4003
HCLADM02@UConnVM.uconn.edu
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From owner-glass Wed Oct  2 05:58:20 1996
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From: delphigl@voyager.net (Delphi Stained Glass)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Coke and Paint: was: Indian chief design
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 08:57:57 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <199610021257.IAA07536@vixa.voyager.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

>When creating a stained glass work from a photo or a painting, I suspect
>that what you are doing is creating a "derivative" work, which is still
>covered by copyright...but if you aren't churning out hundreds to sell,
>I wouldn't worry.  As for using several pictures in composite, I don't
>know when it stops being derivative and simply becomes inspiration.
>As for the Coke bottle, that I believe is covered under Trademark.
>(So, here's a hypothetical...a client asks you to make Mickey Mouse
>suncatcher.  Will pay, say, $40.  Do you even try to get permission
>from Disney?)

In instances like this, you could always sell a copy of the book or pattern
along with it.  Not necessarily practical, but it does fall within the
letter of the copyright law.

Stephanie
______________________________________________________________________
Stephanie Braman       **  E-mail:  delphigl@voyager.net
Delphi Stained Glass   **  WWW:     http://www.voyager.net/delphiglass
2116 E. Michigan Ave.  **  Voice:   1-800-248-2048 (USA,Canada)
Lansing, MI  48912     **           1-517-482-2617 (International)
USA                    **  Fax:     1-800-748-0374 (USA,Canada)
                                    1-517-482-4028 (International)
_____________________________________________________________________

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From owner-glass Wed Oct  2 06:48:43 1996
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From: "Kristen Marie Wright" <wrightk5@pilot.msu.edu>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Do stepping stones scratch?
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 09:46:02 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <199610021346.JAA80931@pilot03.cl.msu.edu>
References: <<1996Oct1.172628.0>>
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> how they wear.)  Do they scratch?  Is there some type of sealer to use that
> prevents or minimizes it?  Or what's a good answer to the question?
>
Silicone sealer may help to prolong the life of the stone, but don't seal the
bottom so if water does get trapped it has a way to escape
kristen
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From owner-glass Wed Oct  2 07:06:46 1996
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From: Linda Campbell <lcbell@memach.com>
To: "',delphigl@voyager.net'" <,delphigl@voyager.net>,
Subject: RE: Coke and Paint: was: Indian chief design
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 10:06:59 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct2.6659.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Stephanie,

I'm not clear about what you are saying when you say sell a copy of the book or pattern with the object. How does this work?

Linda Campbell

	>When creating a stained glass work from a photo or a painting, I suspect
>that what you are doing is creating a "derivative" work, which is still
>covered by copyright...but if you aren't churning out hundreds to sell,
>I wouldn't worry.  As for using several pictures in composite, I don't
>know when it stops being derivative and simply becomes inspiration.
>As for the Coke bottle, that I believe is covered under Trademark.
>(So, here's a hypothetical...a client asks you to make Mickey Mouse
>suncatcher.  Will pay, say, $40.  Do you even try to get permission
>from Disney?)

In instances like this, you could always sell a copy of the book or pattern
along with it.  Not necessarily practical, but it does fall within the
letter of the copyright law.

Stephanie
______________________________________________________________________
Stephanie Braman       **  E-mail:  delphigl@voyager.net
Delphi Stained Glass   **  WWW:     http://www.voyager.net/delphiglass
2116 E. Michigan Ave.  **  Voice:   1-800-248-2048 (USA,Canada)
Lansing, MI  48912     **           1-517-482-2617 (International)
USA                    **  Fax:     1-800-748-0374 (USA,Canada)
                                    1-517-482-4028 (International)
_____________________________________________________________________

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From owner-glass Wed Oct  2 07:22:45 1996
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@mars.superlink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Coke and Paint: was: Indian chief design
Date: Wed, 02 Oct 1996 10:17:54 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct2.61754.0>
References: <<961002.082812.EDT.HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu>>
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mail wrote:
> 
> When creating a stained glass work from a photo or a painting, I suspect
> that what you are doing is creating a "derivative" work, which is still
> covered by copyright...but if you aren't churning out hundreds to sell,
> I wouldn't worry.  As for using several pictures in composite, I don't
> know when it stops being derivative and simply becomes inspiration.
> As for the Coke bottle, that I believe is covered under Trademark.
> (So, here's a hypothetical...a client asks you to make Mickey Mouse
> suncatcher.  Will pay, say, $40.  Do you even try to get permission
> from Disney?)
> 
> --
> Dorothy Kalahan, Interlibrary Loan  (860) 679-2940  FAX (860) 679-4046
> UCONN Health Center Library, POB 4003, Farmington CT 06034-4003
> HCLADM02@UConnVM.uconn.edu
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

yeah that question still bugs me. they have that disney dook of various
caracters, and it's ok to make them. does that mean that if i designed
my own disney thing, would that be ok or not. or if i modified the
existing pattern to something new, would that modified pattern be
covered by the book? i dunno....

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
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From owner-glass Wed Oct  2 07:33:37 1996
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From: mike  peck <summit-stained-glass@worldnet.att.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Sandblast resist
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 14:33:07 +0000
Message-ID: <1996Oct2.14337.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


we have a pretty good computer setup that allows us scan in any image, size
it to just about any dimensions and print it back out directly onto our
resist.  it even works well with Microsoft Word for nice messages in
different fonts, etc.  the big problem is that we still have to cut the
resist with knives.  well, one of our customers came a few weeks ago and
showed us some of his work on coffee mugs and it looked much better than
anything we could have done.  after some discussion, it seems that we have
similar computer equipment, but the customer also has a nice x-y plotter
that uses knives (rather than pens)and cuts the image out right on the
resist.  he says the plotter (an H-P) sells for about $5000.  we have
checked with all of our local used equipment dealers and no avial. anyone
have one of these Hewlett-Packard plotters for sale?  anything equivalent
(but cheaper)? any ideas or comments welcome.

Mike Peck
Summit Stained Glass
summit-stained-glass@worldnet.att.net

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From owner-glass Wed Oct  2 09:24:04 1996
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From:         mail <HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu>
To:           glass@bungi.com
Subject:      Re: Coke and Paint: was: Indian chief design (fwd)
Date:         Wed, 02 Oct 96 12:17:47 EDT
Message-ID:   <961002.122101.EDT.HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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--
Dorothy Kalahan, Interlibrary Loan  (860) 679-2940  FAX (860) 679-4046
UCONN Health Center Library, POB 4003, Farmington CT 06034-4003
HCLADM02@UConnVM.uconn.edu


----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>(So, here's a hypothetical...a client asks you to make Mickey Mouse
>suncatcher.  Will pay, say, $40.  Do you even try to get permission
>from Disney?)

In instances like this, you could always sell a copy of the book or pattern
along with it.  Not necessarily practical, but it does fall within the
letter of the copyright law.

Stephanie
______________________________________________________________________
Stephanie Braman       **  E-mail:  delphigl@voyager.net
Delphi Stained Glass   **  WWW:     http://www.voyager.net/delphiglass
2116 E. Michigan Ave.  **  Voice:   1-800-248-2048 (USA,Canada)
Lansing, MI  48912     **           1-517-482-2617 (International)
USA                    **  Fax:     1-800-748-0374 (USA,Canada)
                                    1-517-482-4028 (International)
_____________________________________________________________________

And if you've designed your own Mickey...just to carry this along?
(I suspect that if you tried to get permission, you'd NEVER hear
back, but if you did, the answer's be "NO")
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From owner-glass Wed Oct  2 09:59:32 1996
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From: "Patrick B. McGreevy" <MCGREEVP@volcano.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Sandblast resist
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 12:51:50 -0400
Message-ID: <199610021651.MAA18763@cozmo.nortel.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

... the big problem is that we still have to cut the
>resist with knives.  well, one of our customers came a few weeks ago and
>showed us some of his work on coffee mugs and it looked much better than
>anything we could have done.  after some discussion, it seems that we have
>similar computer equipment, but the customer also has a nice x-y plotter
>that uses knives (rather than pens)and cuts the image out right on the
>resist.  he says the plotter (an H-P) sells for about $5000. 
>Mike Peck
>Summit Stained Glass
>summit-stained-glass@worldnet.att.net

Don't settle for HP until you shop around.  My generic cadd program lists 20
different vendors.  Check with your local sign makers for opinions and local
sales reps for plotters that cut vinyl.  Also do a www search.  Prices range
from $5-10K.  We focused on Gerber (www.gerber.com) and Allen Datagraph
(search yahoo on allen datagraph) friction feed vinly cutters and bought an
Allen Datagraph, 800 series vinyl cutter, 30" which cost ($7,400).  We are
very pleased and cut both stain glass and sand blast patterns.  The quality
of our work improved dramatically!  It takes minutes to cut a perfect stencil!
Pat McGreevy @ Magali's Glass Art

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From owner-glass Wed Oct  2 11:20:14 1996
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From: mike  peck <summit-stained-glass@worldnet.att.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Sandblast resist
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 18:16:05 +0000
Message-ID: <1996Oct2.18165.0>
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Precedence: bulk

>From: "Peggy W. Johnsen" <edupjohn@slonet.org>
>To: mike peck <summit-stained-glass@worldnet.att.net>
>Subject: Re: Sandblast resist
>X-Sender: edupjohn@spork.callamer.com
>Date: Wed, 2 Oct 96 15:15:30 +0000
>
>Mike:  I am not interested in the HP equipment but I am very interested in
>being able to get pre-cut sandblast designs.  If this happens, let us
>know.  PJ from CA.
>
>

PJ,

Try Pre-Cut Patterns, 18 West 18th Street, Holland Michigan, 49423,
tel:1-616-392-4415.  I talked with a Lori Corbat-Appeldorn there about 3-4
months ago and she sent me a catalogue of some nice pre-cut patterns that
she does.  I tried a few, they were all 4 mil thick so you have to use fine
abrasive, but they worked very well.  But, I felt they were VERY pricy,
which is why I'm still looking for alternatives.

Good luck,

Mike

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From owner-glass Wed Oct  2 11:28:14 1996
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From: delphigl@voyager.net (Delphi Stained Glass)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Coke and Paint: was: Indian chief design (fwd)
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 14:27:36 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <199610021827.OAA25930@vixa.voyager.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

>>>(So, here's a hypothetical...a client asks you to make Mickey Mouse
>>>suncatcher.  Will pay, say, $40.  Do you even try to get permission
>>>from Disney?)
>>
>>In instances like this, you could always sell a copy of the book or pattern
>>along with it.  Not necessarily practical, but it does fall within the
>>letter of the copyright law.
>
>I'm not clear about what you are saying when you say sell a copy of the
book >or pattern with the object. How does this work?

I'm saying to sell an original of the pattern or book along with the
finished item.  Very much similar to having a customer select a pattern and
purchasing it, and then asking to make up this design for them.  The end
result is that only one stained glass piece has been made up for every
pattern purchased.  I'm not suggesting to split up any of the pattern books
or portfolios and parceling them out, but to sell the entire publication intact.

In the long run, it would probably be more inexpensive to contact the owner
of the copyright directly and coming to an agreement if you desire to mass
produce any of the designs.

>And if you've designed your own Mickey...just to carry this along?
>(I suspect that if you tried to get permission, you'd NEVER hear
>back, but if you did, the answer's be "NO")

If your original design of Mickey in anyway resembles the Disney's
copyrighted design, you will still need to "pay" for using their design.  I
heard of a horror story where someone was selling finished items which were
recognizable as Disney designs, and by law the Disney representative was
able to confiscate ALL of the offending items and also sued this individual.

I don't think that the answer from Disney would be no, but the royalty price
would be a very high one and wouldn't be able to justify making only a
couple of this particular piece.

Also referring to the Coke bottle, don't forget that the shape of the Coke
bottle is copyrighted, so using this shape is a copyright infringement if
the proper authorization hasn't been granted.

I would like to say in closing that I'm not an expert on copyright laws, but
this is a frequent question and I'm learning a little at a time.  If I am in
anyway incorrect, *please* let me know.

Stephanie
______________________________________________________________________
Stephanie Braman       **  E-mail:  delphigl@voyager.net
Delphi Stained Glass   **  WWW:     http://www.voyager.net/delphiglass
2116 E. Michigan Ave.  **  Voice:   1-800-248-2048 (USA,Canada)
Lansing, MI  48912     **           1-517-482-2617 (International)
USA                    **  Fax:     1-800-748-0374 (USA,Canada)
                                    1-517-482-4028 (International)
_____________________________________________________________________

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From owner-glass Wed Oct  2 12:38:24 1996
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From: "David J. Loundy" <David@Loundy.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Coke and Paint: was: Indian chief design
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 14:16:22 -0500
Message-ID: <v03007805ae786d7c72f5@[204.148.86.102]>
References: <<961002.082812.EDT.HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu>>>
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Precedence: bulk

At 10:17 AM -0400 10/2/96, Mike Savad wrote:


>yeah that question still bugs me. they have that disney dook of various
>caracters, and it's ok to make them. does that mean that if i designed
>my own disney thing, would that be ok or not. or if i modified the
>existing pattern to something new, would that modified pattern be
>covered by the book? i dunno....

I usually don't jump into discussions so soon after signing up for a new
list, but...

First, if the book is not put out by or licensed by Disney, it may be an
infringement in itself.

Second, if it is an authorized book of Disney patterns, a reasonable
interpretation is that there is an "implied license" to make the patterns
contained in the book.  (This would not be limited to a Disney book, but
would go for any pattern book.)  The argument is that by nature of the
copyrighted works being in a pattern book, the purpose of which is to
construct pieces of stained glass, the author is impliedly giving you
permission to make the copies necessary to carry out the purpose of the
book.

How far these implied licenses would extend is a tough question.  Implied
licenses are kind of a murky area of the law-- there is very little case
law that has addressed the issue.  Unfortunately, it is also becoming a
crucial area of copyright law, particularly in the computer context.
According to U.S. case law, in order to read this message, you had to make
at least one copy.  If not for a license implied by the act of sending this
note to a mailing list and all that entails, it might be an infringement to
even read this note.

--David--


____________________________________________________________________
David J. Loundy            | E-Mail: David@Loundy.com
                           | WWW: http://www.Loundy.com/
"I love deadlines.  I like | Phone: (847) 926-9744
 the whooshing sound they  | Listserv (for my Technology Law column):
   make as they fly by."   |  Send a message reading "subscribe"
   --Douglas Adams         |  to Loundy-request@netural.com
____________________________________________________________________


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From owner-glass Wed Oct  2 16:16:45 1996
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From: direct.ca!tonsper
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: splash guard
Date: Wed Oct  2 16:15:53 1996
Message-ID: <96Oct2.161457-0700pdt.30448-25257+2@orb.direct.ca>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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> I had a problem recently grinding GNA.  The backs of
>the pieces got really scratched.
>- Marilyn Kaminski
>A New Light
Marilyn,
I had this problem awhile ago.  With each pass of a piece
of glass grit does build up.  Now I am in the habit of holding
my glass up off the surface of the grinder.  This has solved
the scratching problem, as well as adjusting  the grinding
head up and down.  The downside is that sometimes  I may
not be perpendicular to the grinding head.  But then again I
do not claim to be perfect(:{). (How do you guys make this face
without a mustache?) Non Stained Glass Stuff.

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From owner-glass Wed Oct  2 16:32:06 1996
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From: direct.ca!tonsper
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: scratched glass
Date: Wed Oct  2 16:31:36 1996
Message-ID: <96Oct2.163019-0700pdt.270196-29807+35@aphex.direct.ca>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


> I had a problem recently grinding GNA.  The backs of
>the pieces got really scratched.
>- Marilyn Kaminski
>A New Light
Marilyn,
I had this problem awhile ago.  With each pass of a piece
of glass grit does build up.  Now I am in the habit of holding
my glass up off the surface of the grinder.  This has solved
the scratching problem, as well as adjusting  the grinding
head up and down.  The downside is that sometimes  I may
not be perpendicular to the grinding head.  But then again I
do not claim to be perfect(:{). (How do you guys make this face
without a mustache? Non Stained Glass Stuff.)
 
Talk about lack of  computer knowledge. I sent this message
once without signing it.

Debbie Alexander
Wild Rose Stained Glass Studio
 
P.S.  I have done some Home Page Visiting.  Well done
Steve, Mike, Elizabeth and Toby.  I enjoy seeing how other
people use glass to create works of art.  Makes me very 
humble about my own work.

P.S.S. I love your picture Toby!  I have two girls that would
love to meet you.

Thanks to everyone who contributes. Each day I can learn
something different or put a different spin to a problem.

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From owner-glass Wed Oct  2 17:09:57 1996
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From: "=?ISO-8859-2?Q?Grzegorz_Gier=B3owski?=" <michu-g@lodz.pdi.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: glass software comparison,beveling equipment and health care
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2096 23:58:24 +0100
Message-ID: <199610030009.BAA08407@gryzmak.lodz.pdi.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

For  April Paine

I would gladly share with you any feedback received if  I  had received =
any.
Up till now  no one  mentioned topics we both seek answers to  / is that =
correct English?/
Probably list of questions was too long or covering too wide area for =
single person to answer
which prevented one to speak-up.
Or it might be that products mentioned are not in use by our =
glass-group.
Is there anybody making  own bevels?
Will keep in touch when somebody responds.
It's interesting also to hear more on health-care and lung  illnesses =
prevention  in context
of soldering flux fumes.If one does a lot of soldering it might be =
really hazardous and problem
as far as I know, is neglected  by most of us.How do you April and the =
rest of the pack cope with it?
Best regards
Greg
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From owner-glass Wed Oct  2 17:39:24 1996
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From: madglass@usaor.net (Mary Ann Dulemba)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: my page 2
Date: Wed, 02 Oct 1996 20:35:51 -0400
Message-ID: <199610030051.UAA05776@gate.usaor.net>
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Hi Mike,

Just wanted to tell you I stopped by your page and it was wonderful!  I
really enjoy checking out other peoples ideas and creativity!

Mary Ann

>welp, if anyone is intrested i just updated my shop page. the pictures
>are a little smaller, but i was running out of space.
>
>---Mike Savad
>
>http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
>-- 
>Mike's Stained Glass
>http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
>----
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>
--
Registered ICC User
check out http://www.usefulware.com/~jfoltz


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From owner-glass Wed Oct  2 18:06:36 1996
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From: spinn@accesscomm.net (Stephen Pinn)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Sandblast resist
Date: Thu, 03 Oct 1996 01:05:16 GMT
Message-ID: <1996Oct3.1516.0>
References: <<1996Oct2.14337.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: PinnCorp.
Precedence: bulk

Mike, the device you speak of is a vinyl cutter.  These cutters are
used by almose every sign shop in the country to product sign images.
I bought mine used for $900.  Most plotter companies (Summagraphics,
Roland, IOline, etc.) sell these devices.  They do work great except
for fine lettering (less the 8 point) which is better left to
photoresists.

Hope this helps - Steve



On Wed, 2 Oct 1996 14:33:07 +0000, you wrote:

>
>we have a pretty good computer setup that allows us scan in any image, =
size
>it to just about any dimensions and print it back out directly onto our
>resist.  it even works well with Microsoft Word for nice messages in
>different fonts, etc.  the big problem is that we still have to cut the
>resist with knives.  well, one of our customers came a few weeks ago and
>showed us some of his work on coffee mugs and it looked much better than
>anything we could have done.  after some discussion, it seems that we =
have
>similar computer equipment, but the customer also has a nice x-y plotter
>that uses knives (rather than pens)and cuts the image out right on the
>resist.  he says the plotter (an H-P) sells for about $5000.  we have
>checked with all of our local used equipment dealers and no avial. =
anyone
>have one of these Hewlett-Packard plotters for sale?  anything =
equivalent
>(but cheaper)? any ideas or comments welcome.
>
>Mike Peck
>Summit Stained Glass
>summit-stained-glass@worldnet.att.net
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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>

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From owner-glass Wed Oct  2 18:11:00 1996
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From: spinn@accesscomm.net (Stephen Pinn)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Sandblast resist
Date: Thu, 03 Oct 1996 01:10:45 GMT
Message-ID: <1996Oct3.11045.0>
References: <<199610021651.MAA18763@cozmo.nortel.net>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: PinnCorp.
Precedence: bulk

Pat is correct, do shop around.  Roland's 950 is priced at about $2000
and is a good cutter.  For used equipment try www.signweb.com, they
maintain a classified area for sign making equipment.

Steve

On Wed, 2 Oct 1996 12:51:50 -0400, you wrote:

>... the big problem is that we still have to cut the
>>resist with knives.  well, one of our customers came a few weeks ago =
and
>>showed us some of his work on coffee mugs and it looked much better =
than
>>anything we could have done.  after some discussion, it seems that we =
have
>>similar computer equipment, but the customer also has a nice x-y =
plotter
>>that uses knives (rather than pens)and cuts the image out right on the
>>resist.  he says the plotter (an H-P) sells for about $5000.=20
>>Mike Peck
>>Summit Stained Glass
>>summit-stained-glass@worldnet.att.net
>
>Don't settle for HP until you shop around.  My generic cadd program =
lists 20
>different vendors.  Check with your local sign makers for opinions and =
local
>sales reps for plotters that cut vinyl.  Also do a www search.  Prices =
range
>from $5-10K.  We focused on Gerber (www.gerber.com) and Allen Datagraph
>(search yahoo on allen datagraph) friction feed vinly cutters and bought=
 an
>Allen Datagraph, 800 series vinyl cutter, 30" which cost ($7,400).  We =
are
>very pleased and cut both stain glass and sand blast patterns.  The =
quality
>of our work improved dramatically!  It takes minutes to cut a perfect =
stencil!
>Pat McGreevy @ Magali's Glass Art
>
>----
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>

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From owner-glass Wed Oct  2 19:02:20 1996
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From: Kay Allen <fullspec@scv.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Sandblast resist
Date: Wed, 02 Oct 1996 19:00:19 -0700
Message-ID: <1.5.4.32.19961003020019.00685c24@mail.scv.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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At 14:33 2-10-96 +0000, you wrote:
>
>. but the customer also has a nice x-y plotter
>that uses knives (rather than pens)and cuts the image out right on the
>resist.  he says the plotter (an H-P) sells for about $5000.  we have
>checked with all of our local used equipment dealers and no avial. anyone
>have one of these Hewlett-Packard plotters for sale?  anything equivalent
>(but cheaper)? any ideas or comments welcome.
>
>Mike Peck
>Summit Stained Glass
>summit-stained-glass@worldnet.att.net
>
.Mike,

Have you checked out GlasDesign Systems?  The brochure they sent me included
info on the Allen Datagraph series of plotters.  Their number is 800-850-9340.
>.
>

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From owner-glass Thu Oct  3 03:41:43 1996
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From: B J Snell <bjs10@cornell.edu>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: your experience with software & beveling equipment
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 06:41:19 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <2.2.16.19961003064127.18ff9e3a@postoffice.mail.cornell.edu>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

At , you wrote:
>Hi,
>Can anyone having experience or good knowledge of following topics =
>advice me
>about  choosing best products I'm about to buy?:
>1/ How do you compare S.G. designing computer software-Dragonfly's =
>"Glass eye"
>versus Micro  Glass Corp.'s "Glass magic" both for Windows 95 IBM  PC =
>standart.
>Knowing that first one is for flat pieces only while second has also =
>flat panel's
>lamps shades designing option I,m curious if second software can do all =
>that first can as far as flat
>pieces are concerned /size of your work and printing/plotting =
>facilities./
>How do they work practicaly in everyday use and if there are advantages =
>of one how does it stand against
>price difference if there is one /how much is "Glass magic"?/
>
      Greetings Greg:
              I purchased Glass Magic and had to get three sets of the discs
before I was able to install them.  The first two sets were defective.  When
I finally was able to work with the program I found the clip art to be limited.
The cost of the program runs around thirty dollars.  The program that I used
was for Windows 3.1 .... I do not have Windows 95... so I am not sure that
the programs are exactly the same.  I did not notice a designing option in
the Glass Magic software.  I took it off my hard drive and plan on donating
it to the high school for a beginners class if they choose to try one. If
you would like more information about Glass Magic, their internet address is
MicroGlass@aol.com.  
                You can get a lot of information about The Glass Eye at:
  glasseye@dfly.com   and     http://www.dfly.com.  At that sight you can
register with the firm, they will send you additional information about the
program.  The site also has a demonstration feature of The Glass Eye program.
I received my information from them just yesterday.  The program costs about
$150.00.   
                Hope this helps a little...

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From owner-glass Thu Oct  3 04:21:50 1996
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From: B J Snell <bjs10@cornell.edu>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Coke and Paint: was: Indian chief design
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 07:21:30 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <2.2.16.19961003072138.25aff776@postoffice.mail.cornell.edu>
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>Second, if it is an authorized book of Disney patterns, a reasonable
>interpretation is that there is an "implied license" to make the patterns
>contained in the book.  (This would not be limited to a Disney book, but
>would go for any pattern book.)  The argument is that by nature of the
>copyrighted works being in a pattern book, the purpose of which is to
>construct pieces of stained glass, the author is impliedly giving you
>permission to make the copies necessary to carry out the purpose of the
>book.

     Just a note:  When I took a pattern book to Kinko's for copies... they
informed me that as a result of a lawsuit they (employees) will no longer
make copies of patterns from a book with a copyright, however they will
allow YOU to do the copying...


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From owner-glass Thu Oct  3 05:08:22 1996
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From: Joyce Moran <joyce@bright.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: glass software comparison,beveling equipment and health care
Date: Thu, 03 Oct 1996 08:05:43 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct3.4543.0>
References: <<199610030009.BAA08407@gryzmak.lodz.pdi.net>>
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=?ISO-8859-2?Q?Grzegorz_Gier=B3owski?= wrote:
> 
> For  April Paine
> 
> I would gladly share with you any feedback received if  I  had received =
> any.
> Up till now  no one  mentioned topics we both seek answers to  / is that =
> correct English?/
> Probably list of questions was too long or covering too wide area for =
> single person to answer
> which prevented one to speak-up.
> Or it might be that products mentioned are not in use by our =
> glass-group.


I'm the one that originally posted the american bevel site url when 
coming home from the Nashville show, and I was so excited about seeing 
it there.  After the web site wasn't up, and I talked to my supplier 
about the program, they suggested to wait, because American Bevel is 
just a very slow provider.  My interest was in the glass chips that 
could be painted into the design once drawn, and now that you say only 8 
bevels are included, I'm even more disappointed.  So basically I don't 
have much to comment on the software.

I don't bevel my own bevels, so nothing to comment there.

As for fumes, I solder in a fairly large room, with 12 windows (some of 
which can be opened) and I have my lead levels checked.  I don't use a 
mask or fume collector or even have a fan drawing the fumes to the 
window.  So far my blood levels have been fine.  I don't get irritation 
in my nose, or any such thing, so I figure why change something that 
seems to be working.  I know a lot of people do have sensitivities, and 
they should try other methods....but for now I'm happy without all the 
contraptions.  (Btw, I do only copper foil work, no lead dust involved)

I hope this non response is better than no response at all!

Garden of Glass
Joyce Moran
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From owner-glass Thu Oct  3 06:23:14 1996
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From: Kay Allen <fullspec@scv.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: glass software comparison,beveling equipment and health
Date: Thu, 03 Oct 1996 06:20:27 -0700
Message-ID: <1.5.4.32.19961003132027.00688974@mail.scv.net>
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Joyce,

I purchased the AB software a few months ago.  Although I didn't know it was
an incomplete program at the time I had plenty of files with which to do the
tutorial.  He (Richard Ashoff) mentioned something at the time about
"glassifying" some more pieces to the program.  I guess it was the remaining
bevels, etc.  I have heard from him recently and he says he has completed
the drawings of the rest of the bevels and will ship them out in about two
weeks.  He also will have instructions on how to draw the flowers in the
tutorial.  I'm really anxious about those glass chips also.
Kay


From owner-glass Thu Oct  3 08:17:07 1996
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From: Constance Hall <75713.716@CompuServe.COM>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: air  compressors
Date: 03 Oct 96 11:14:32 EDT
Message-ID: <1996Oct3.151432.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Need a new air compressor and wonder if anyone has any opinions on good or bad
ones. Am going to sandblast with it and also run air to my hot shop. Also what
is the difference between single and two stage besides two stage being twice
the price? Thanks.

  E-mail from: Constance Hall, 03-Oct-1996


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From owner-glass Thu Oct  3 08:47:47 1996
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From: April Paine <vgplugs@primeline.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Bevels-Fumes
Date: Thu, 03 Oct 1996 11:50:50 -0700
Message-ID: <1996Oct3.45050.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Victorian Greenhouse & Stained Glass
Precedence: bulk

Greg>
> Is there anybody making own bevels?

> It's interesting also to hear more on health-care and lung  illnesses =
> prevention in the context of soldering flux fumes.If one does a lot of soldering it might be => really hazardous and problem. 

Hi Greg,

My computer has been in the shop waiting for a new hard drive.  I found 
130 bad clusters with the DOS surface scan.  The whole back of the visual
was lined with B's on a less than a month old drive.  I'm not experienced 
with computers.  I am thankful for the tip from Loveta that this once 
happened to her prior to a crash.  The shop replaced my drive free.

I haven't done any bevels but Charlie (my husband) is working on 
converting an old industral machine tool into a beveling one. He is in 
the research phase figuring out the mathematics to program it 
(differential geomentry) not my area. It's an old jig grinder.  He says 
he'll add a few computer-controlled motors and a tilting head.  If anyone 
already has done this and has any tips we would love to hear from you.

I am still looking for software. We have ordered the Glasseye from 
Dragonfly.  I decided Monday since we haven't gotten good reviews on the 
others and my Coreldraw 4 has a few bugs that it was worth having it 
consolidated in one program.  

I am for prevention.  I am also a RN and from a health prospective by the 
time you find out there is a problem with fumes damage has already taken 
place.  If you have children and work out of your home as I do, exhaust 
and periodic blood monitoring are a must.  Lead poisoning sypmtoms mimic 
the flu "colicky abdominal pain, headache, constipation and irritability.
Severe poisoning may cause coma and convulsions." Lead targets the 
nervous system, GI tract and the blood.  Chronic intoxication of children 
can cause learning disorders and motor problems.  You should tell your 
pediatrician so that it's noted in your kid's chart in the event signs 
and symptoms occur.  I chose not to solder during pregnancy.  However you 
should check with your M.D..   There is a federal law stating that 
workers with lead levels >60ug/dl must be removed from the site of 
exposure (data 1992).  

Just as an example I once new a man that worked in a muffler shop and 
he thought working with the garage doors open was enough exhaust. It 
wasn't and he spent alot of money and time having chelation treatments.  
This does not even address the potential long term effects.  I'm not 
claiming to be an authority on the subject but it is better to be safe 
than sorry. "Ounce of prevention..."                                   
                                       April
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From owner-glass Thu Oct  3 10:57:28 1996
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From: delphigl@voyager.net (Delphi Stained Glass)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Bevels-Fumes
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 13:56:36 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <199610031756.NAA01018@vixa.voyager.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

April,

>I am still looking for software. We have ordered the Glasseye from 
>Dragonfly.  I decided Monday since we haven't gotten good reviews on the 
>others and my Coreldraw 4 has a few bugs that it was worth having it 
>consolidated in one program.  

Have you received this software yet?  I have had mine for 3 weeks now and
for the most part have been very satisfied with results from this program.
After installation, I completed a small panel (less than 12" in diameter) in
less than 10 minutes of use and had a great time to boot!  The only thing
that I haven't been completely satisfied with is the fact the files are
saved as ".eye" and I really would rather have been able to save them as
".tif" or ".gif" and hopefully been able to use them with other programs.

Today, I have been playing with the demo version of the new software from
American Bevel.  It's pretty slick.  I really like the fact that there are
so many base bevel shapes available to create with.  This version only
contained 8 clusters, but someone here mentioned to me today that the most
recent "registered" version contains over 150 clusters.  Very impressed with
the possibility of "coloring" the finished design and that this program
recognizes ".gif", ".tif", ".jpg" formats.  Since Spectrum Glass now has an
established, and very well put together site now
(http://www.SpectrumGlass.com) and shows actual representations of some of
their glass, maybe they will consider making these files available to "plug"
into the the color palette for this program.  I realize that it's only one
manufacturer, but it would be a beginning.....

Just my two cents,
Stephanie
______________________________________________________________________
Stephanie Braman       **  E-mail:  delphigl@voyager.net
Delphi Stained Glass   **  WWW:     http://www.voyager.net/delphiglass
2116 E. Michigan Ave.  **  Voice:   1-800-248-2048 (USA,Canada)
Lansing, MI  48912     **           1-517-482-2617 (International)
USA                    **  Fax:     1-800-748-0374 (USA,Canada)
                                    1-517-482-4028 (International)
_____________________________________________________________________

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From owner-glass Thu Oct  3 14:26:10 1996
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From: "Albert Lewis [IGGA]" <70544.3642@CompuServe.COM>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Bevel cluster software
Date: 03 Oct 96 17:23:40 EDT
Message-ID: <1996Oct3.212340.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


   >I'm the one that originally posted the american bevel site url when
   >coming home from the Nashville show, and I was so excited about seeing
   >it there.  ... My interest was in the glass chips that
   >could be painted into the design once drawn, and now that you say only 8
   >bevels are included, I'm even more disappointed.

Joyce,

American Bevel's president, Dick Ashoff, sent us a copy of the just outta beta
program to review, but pointed out that the version he'd sent (like yours)
didn't include all of their bevel clusters ... only 10 of 'em ... but that all
of them *would be included as of that week ... his letter's dated September 24,
so I'd guess that they're included now.

The point AB's software, of course, is to sell AB's bevel clusters, which Ashoff
admits aren't the cheapest on the market, but I assume that the time you save
trying to plan doors, entries, transoms, etc. *without AB's software will more
than make up the difference in the clusters' cost. <s>

If you've already bought the software and need an update, so that all of the
clusters *are included, I suspect that they're ready to hear from you.  Write to
them at ab@americanbevel.com   Hope this helps.

Albert
                __________________________________________
                Albert Lewis            Executive Director
                International Guild of Glass Artists, Inc.
                __________________________________________
                     http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/

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From owner-glass Thu Oct  3 16:51:15 1996
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From: "=?ISO-8859-2?Q?Grzegorz_Gier=B3owski?=" <michu-g@lodz.pdi.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: how glass making relates to other arts- if it is an art -or is it just a craft
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2096 00:50:43 +0100
Message-ID: <199610032350.AAA09791@gryzmak.lodz.pdi.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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Today is a big day for cultural Poland.
Literature Nobel Prize 96 goes to  poet Wislawa Szymborska.
She's second polish poet awarded this prize these years.
First one ,in early 80's was Cz. Milosz ,literature profesor
at Berkeley.Ca.  =20
Being musician and glassman myself,I often am inspired by other branch'  =
art works.
Visual inspires musical and vice versa but also poetry is very "kicky".
What are your experiences with re-planting emotions felt while in =
contact
with other than visual art-works?
Sorry it's not strictly"technical glass oriented" but I believe it =
relates if  we are
not only craftsmen/persons/.

Greg on a virtual ,high-flying Pegasus / this time-instead of everyday's =
swearing beast
                                                                         =
                                     from savage East/
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From owner-glass Thu Oct  3 16:51:50 1996
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From: "=?ISO-8859-2?Q?Grzegorz_Gier=B3owski?=" <michu-g@lodz.pdi.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: your experience with software & beveling equipment
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2096 00:17:15 +0100
Message-ID: <199610032350.AAA09780@gryzmak.lodz.pdi.net>
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Thanks for sharing your experience with software
Seems that Glass Eye is a lot better than Glass Magic,if it only
was also for lamps.
Is there any 3D spherical software to design shades of half ball shape?
What a great idea to have glass samples in-build into designing software
What a tool it would be as for presentation to  ordering customer.

Greg

----------
> From: B J Snell <bjs10@cornell.edu>
> To: glass@bungi.com
> Subject: Re: your experience with software & beveling equipment
> Date: 3 pa=BCdziernika 1996 11:41
>=20
> At , you wrote:
> >Hi,
> >Can anyone having experience or good knowledge of following topics =
=3D
> >advice me
> >about  choosing best products I'm about to buy?:
> >1/ How do you compare S.G. designing computer software-Dragonfly's =
=3D
> >"Glass eye"
> >versus Micro  Glass Corp.'s "Glass magic" both for Windows 95 IBM  PC =
=3D
> >standart.
> >Knowing that first one is for flat pieces only while second has also =
=3D
> >flat panel's
> >lamps shades designing option I,m curious if second software can do =
all =3D
> >that first can as far as flat
> >pieces are concerned /size of your work and printing/plotting =3D
> >facilities./
> >How do they work practicaly in everyday use and if there are =
advantages =3D
> >of one how does it stand against
> >price difference if there is one /how much is "Glass magic"?/
> >
>       Greetings Greg:
>               I purchased Glass Magic and had to get three sets of the =
discs
> before I was able to install them.  The first two sets were defective. =
 When
> I finally was able to work with the program I found the clip art to be =
limited.
> The cost of the program runs around thirty dollars.  The program that =
I used
> was for Windows 3.1 .... I do not have Windows 95... so I am not sure =
that
> the programs are exactly the same.  I did not notice a designing =
option in
> the Glass Magic software.  I took it off my hard drive and plan on =
donating
> it to the high school for a beginners class if they choose to try one. =
If
> you would like more information about Glass Magic, their internet =
address is
> MicroGlass@aol.com. =20
>                 You can get a lot of information about The Glass Eye =
at:
>   glasseye@dfly.com   and     http://www.dfly.com.  At that sight you =
can
> register with the firm, they will send you additional information =
about the
> program.  The site also has a demonstration feature of The Glass Eye =
program.
> I received my information from them just yesterday.  The program costs =
about
> $150.00.  =20
>                 Hope this helps a little...
>=20
> ----
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From owner-glass Thu Oct  3 17:21:09 1996
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Bevels-Fumes....yes, and software
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@mail.nildram.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 1996 00:54:21 +0000
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Hi April,
Can't advise you about bevels, as regads fumes, see my earlier 
posting.
However, as regards "Glass Eye"  I have spent 3 months doing an 
evaluation for Dargonfly for the 3.1 version that  they had shelved 
in a drawer, thinking that everybody was "fighting to obtain Windows 
95", which is where they concentrated their main efforts.
My own computer system has evolved from an old 286 "machine" that I 
obtained for nothing out of a skip (I belive you in USA call it a 
dumpster). It was very efficient in doing my correspondence in  DOS 
Wordstar and filing and a primitive - but adequate - DTP package.
Enter White Knight Customer, who is a very senior Computer 
Consultant at a large international computer company (no NOT IBM),
who hi-jacks my entire system, rebuilds it, installs new and 
mysterious software.
Hey Presto, I am on the Internet.....!! Presented to me as a Birthday 
Present!
In the wake of this, comes the Dragonfly evaluation.
I am not one for fancy computer drawing tools. But I quite like this 
programme and will use it. I hear it is not compatible with some 
other computer systems (MacIntosh ??). It's got some lovely, neat features, which I 
was quite impressed with (the step-by-step-by-step delete feature - 
one of them, as the reverse restore). Available for Windows 95 and NOW for 
Windows 3.1   I myself have Windows 3.11 For Workgroups.
More than that, in my experience, Dragonfly is not a "Craig Hackney" 
outfit. Dragonfly delivers! I got answers 10 minutes after I asked 
the questions....
I'll be happy to share my evaluation experiences with those of you 
interested. Still have all my notes and correspondence with them.
On or off the Group...
Elisabeth 'n Toby
----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
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From owner-glass Thu Oct  3 17:21:14 1996
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: glass software comparison,beveling equipment and health car
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@mail.nildram.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 1996 00:54:21 +0000
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Hi Greg, April and all,

After so many years of teaching stained glass in colleges in several 
counties, I am now for the first time being presented with  Health 
and Safety Evaluation forms, for me to formally evaluate, putting my 
neck on the line and formally commit in writing.
Interesting that, considering the Health and Safety battle I am 
having for my friend, who has NEVER been confronted , asked, informed 
about these matters and who is now ill.
But all of a sudden, these Colleges want these written technical 
Evaluation reports, signed, sealed and delivered by YESTERDAY!!

Modifying a spare room in one's home into a  stained glass workshop, 
where dogs, cats, children run in and out, where the space is very 
possibly small and confined is a totally different matter to using a 
room that is perhaps 15 - 30 feet in height, designed to accommodate  
30 - 40 people at any one time, has got 2-3 doors and perhaps 10 - 15 
windows (each 5 ft x 6 ft) that all open ....; where there is no 
carpeting, but workshop/laboratory type flooring and where all the 
work benches are  purposebuilt; where industrial cleaners are 
employed .
I don't allow any of my students to do copper-foiling until they have 
produced at least 3-4 leaded panels. By then, they know the 
principles of soldering, the hazards. At coffee break/lunch-breaks I 
personally supervise them all washing their hands thouroughly, before 
allowing them anywhere near food or drink.
(Oh, yes, I am quite dictatorial and "bossy"!!)
For a leaded panel, soldering consumes  a relatively small percentage 
of the "creation process", so exposure to fumes are limited, within 
the given environment. Handling lead consumes a greater time. There 
again, by observing rigorous hygiene you can reduce risks and 
exposure. Most of the time, you are handling glass. That is where the 
concentration of health & safety training is directed. If you are 
trained how to handle the glass itself securely, confidently and 
safely, you will also have reduced the time when you have to handle 
lead (a knock-on effect; if you have cut a piece of glass badly, then 
you are going to have to spend much more time in making the lead 
fit...)
I too have my lead-level tested every 3 years or so. My philosophy 
must pay off, as I there isn't a "murmur" of any problem. I am also 
fast in my leading and soldering, not because this is an onerous 
task! If anything, it is my leading that actually creates my vision 
of the panel I am making. The glass has to be accurate first.
In the final analysis, it boils down to preparation.
Anyhow, I am now bombarded by these forms and "risk evaluation 
reports". To give a fair evaluation of the soldering aspecct, I 
intend to consult with Safety people at BBC tv engineering staff, who 
do nothing else all day and who have a strict health & safety 
criteria, before I commit my neck on paper.
If only Susan had had the benefit of this type of Health & Safety 
protection........
Will keep you posted.
Elisabeth 'n Toby
----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
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From owner-glass Fri Oct  4 00:42:37 1996
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From: mdcglas@rmplc.co.uk (mdc glasgow)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: software evaluation
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 1996 08:43:40 +0100
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Elizabeth wrote

..... <snip>

>I'll be happy to share my evaluation experiences with those of you
>interested. Still have all my notes and correspondence with them.
>On or off the Group...
>Elisabeth 'n Toby

I for one would be very interested in reading your evaluation of the
software in my dual roles as a computer support person {I wonder if I could
convince my boss that this software could be used for CAD in schools
mmm.... (g) } and glass artist

anything you could forward would be great

Thanks

Phil


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From owner-glass Fri Oct  4 01:36:18 1996
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From: jc@crosfield.co.uk (Jerry Cullingford)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: glass software comparison,beveling equipment and health car
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 1996 09:34:44 +0100 (BST)
Message-ID: <9610040834.AA25080@crosfield.co.uk>
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Elisabeth writes:
> I don't allow any of my students to do copper-foiling until they have 
> produced at least 3-4 leaded panels. By then, they know the 
> principles of soldering, the hazards. 

Interesting... I'd have thought that the whiting stage would be more
hazardous than soldering - but that may just be that I'm used to
soldering from electronics :-) and don't regard it as "dangerous".

-Jerry


-- 
   _|_   Jerry Cullingford      jc@crosfield.co.uk      (Work)
  / |    Hemel Hempstead, UK    jc@selune.demon.co.uk   (Home)
  \_|_                          jerry@shell.portal.com  (alternate)
\__/                            www.selune.demon.co.uk  (soon)
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From owner-glass Fri Oct  4 04:34:18 1996
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From owner-glass Fri Oct  4 04:35:19 1996
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From owner-glass Fri Oct  4 05:07:01 1996
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From: Linda Campbell <lcbell@memach.com>
To: "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: RE: PlastiCame
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 1996 07:25:19 -0400
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Sus said:

Hi All,
        I just got the new Glass Patterns Quarterly today and am curious
about the 'PlastiCame' that is advertised.  Does anybody know anything
about it?

Sue
1091@nethawk.com


Me too, Sue. I sent for information on the reader service card from Glass 
Patterns Quarterly and searched the web for anything about the plasticame 
but haven't found a thing. Anyone know anything about it?

Linda Campbell





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From owner-glass Fri Oct  4 05:09:58 1996
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From: llutz <llutz@tpgi.com.au>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: air  compressors
Date: Fri, 04 Oct 1996 22:03:08 +1100
Message-ID: <1996Oct5.938.0>
References: <<1996Oct3.151432.0>>
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Constance Hall wrote:
> 
> Need a new air compressor and wonder if anyone has any opinions on good or bad
> ones. Am going to sandblast with it and also run air to my hot shop. Also what
> is the difference between single and two stage besides two stage being twice
> the price? Thanks.
> 
>   E-mail from: Constance Hall, 03-Oct-1996
>Constance- a two stage compressor just compresses the gas part of the way in the first stage, then takes the partially compressed gas to the second stage to compress it to the final pressure. There are size and efficiency implications but I won't bore you with the details. Sorry I can't help with brand names as I doubt You would find Aust. ones there.
Larry from Minore 
> ----
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From owner-glass Fri Oct  4 05:10:04 1996
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From: llutz <llutz@tpgi.com.au>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: how glass making relates to other arts- if it is an art -or is it just a craft
Date: Fri, 04 Oct 1996 22:14:10 +1100
Message-ID: <1996Oct5.91410.0>
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=?ISO-8859-2?Q?Grzegorz_Gier=B3owski?= wrote:
> 
> Today is a big day for cultural Poland.
> Literature Nobel Prize 96 goes to  poet Wislawa Szymborska.
> She's second polish poet awarded this prize these years.
> First one ,in early 80's was Cz. Milosz ,literature profesor
> at Berkeley.Ca.  =20
> Being musician and glassman myself,I often am inspired by other branch'  =
> art works.
> Visual inspires musical and vice versa but also poetry is very "kicky".
> What are your experiences with re-planting emotions felt while in =
> contact
> with other than visual art-works?
> Sorry it's not strictly"technical glass oriented" but I believe it =
> relates if  we are
> not only craftsmen/persons/.
> 
> Greg on a virtual ,high-flying Pegasus / this time-instead of everyday's =
> swearing beast
>                                                                          =
>                                      from savage East/
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
Personally- I like to play something like Liszt, Mozart or similar while
I work- and turn the volume up (nearest neighbor is 1/2 mile away)- a
real luxury- Larry from Minore

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From owner-glass Fri Oct  4 05:15:10 1996
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From owner-glass Fri Oct  4 05:17:32 1996
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From owner-glass Fri Oct  4 08:38:56 1996
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From: "Peggy W. Johnsen" <edupjohn@slonet.org>
To: Linda Campbell <lcbell@memach.com>
Subject: RE: PlastiCame
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 1996 08:34:14 -0700 (PDT)
Message-ID: <1996Oct4.13414.0>
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Just guessing, but I suspect the plasticame is the product that is used by
the fold who make fake stained glass panels, i.e., using colored plastic
sheeting and then simulating lead lines with the PlasticCame.  I purchased
some several years back thinking it might be useful to use in repairs.  So
far, I haven't opened the package.  PJ from CA.

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From owner-glass Fri Oct  4 10:55:24 1996
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From: delphigl@voyager.net (Delphi Stained Glass)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: RE: PlastiCame
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 1996 13:53:33 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <199610041753.NAA09820@vixa.voyager.net>
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Hi All,

Well, now I've learned a bit more.  I found the ad in Glass Patterns
Quarterly and contacted the manufacturer.  They will be sending us a package
of more information so that we can make a better decision.  What I did find
out is that this came requires no soldering at all and I am still uncertain
if puttying is necessary or not; my guess is that it is.  Also a colored
matched glue is available which it squeezed into the joints and cures so
that you don't have to solder; and they mentioned that it will clean off
glass when still wet with a damp rag, or can be trimmed with a utility knife
when it has set up a bit.

Currently they have only 3 colors available:  white, black, and gray.  The
"H" channels are flexible and the outside "U" channels are rigid.  Currently
the sizes available are:  3/16" and 1/4" Round H, 3/8" Flat H, and 1/2" Flat
U.  The strips would come in 5 foot lengths (whereas lead is 6 feet).  Drat
it all; I forgot to ask if it can be cut with lead nippers or if it requires
a saw.  They did mention that their product line hasn't been firmed up since
they are still such a new company and they are awaiting ideas and
constructive criticism on their products.

When I have more information, I would be happy to give you my opinions on
this. I will admit up front that I am still skeptical because I don't think
plastics will hold up so well over time.  If a large panel is made, how will
support be added if you can't solder reinforcing bars or loops to insert the
bars through? Will the plastic look either too fake and devalue the finished
glass piece or detract (or distract) from the beauty of the glass?  This
inquiring mind wants to know, too.

Stephanie
______________________________________________________________________
Stephanie Braman       **  E-mail:  delphigl@voyager.net
Delphi Stained Glass   **  WWW:     http://www.voyager.net/delphiglass
2116 E. Michigan Ave.  **  Voice:   1-800-248-2048 (USA,Canada)
Lansing, MI  48912     **           1-517-482-2617 (International)
USA                    **  Fax:     1-800-748-0374 (USA,Canada)
                                    1-517-482-4028 (International)
_____________________________________________________________________

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From owner-glass Fri Oct  4 13:34:00 1996
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X-Path: newtech.net!frogfoot
From: FEFranks <frogfoot@newtech.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: doberman
Date: Fri, 04 Oct 1996 16:32:13 +0000
Message-ID: <1.5.4.32.19961004163213.00677c18@POP3.newtech.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Does anyone know where I can find a pattern of a doberman head. I've seen
other dogs but have been unable to find one of a doberman. Thanks

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From owner-glass Fri Oct  4 13:46:44 1996
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From: "=?ISO-8859-2?Q?Grzegorz_Gier=B3owski?=" <michu-g@lodz.pdi.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: Bevel cluster software
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2096 21:46:59 +0100
Message-ID: <199610042045.VAA04989@gryzmak.lodz.pdi.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk



----------
> From: Albert Lewis [IGGA] <70544.3642@CompuServe.COM>
> To: glass@bungi.com
> Subject: Bevel cluster software
> Date: 3 pa=BCdziernika 2096 22:23
>=20
>=20
>    >I'm the one that originally posted the american bevel site url =
when
>    >coming home from the Nashville show, and I was so excited about =
seeing
>    >it there.  ... My interest was in the glass chips that
>    >could be painted into the design once drawn, and now that you say =
only 8
>    >bevels are included, I'm even more disappointed.
>=20
> Joyce,
>=20
> American Bevel's president, Dick Ashoff, sent us a copy of the just =
outta beta
> program to review, but pointed out that the version he'd sent (like =
yours)
> didn't include all of their bevel clusters ... only 10 of 'em ... but =
that all
> of them *would be included as of that week ... his letter's dated =
September 24,
> so I'd guess that they're included now.
>=20
> The point AB's software, of course, is to sell AB's bevel clusters, =
which Ashoff
> admits aren't the cheapest on the market, but I assume that the time =
you save
> trying to plan doors, entries, transoms, etc. *without AB's software =
will more
> than make up the difference in the clusters' cost. <s>
>=20
> If you've already bought the software and need an update, so that all =
of the
> clusters *are included, I suspect that they're ready to hear from you. =
 Write to
> them at ab@americanbevel.com   Hope this helps.
>=20
> Albert
>                 __________________________________________
>                 Albert Lewis            Executive Director
>                 International Guild of Glass Artists, Inc.
>                 __________________________________________
>                      http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/
>=20
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
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From owner-glass Fri Oct  4 16:18:39 1996
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	id m0v9JVM-0000r2a; Fri, 4 Oct 96 16:18 PDT
X-Path: worldnet.att.net!summit-stained-glass
From: mike  peck <summit-stained-glass@worldnet.att.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: RE: PlastiCame
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 1996 23:17:51 +0000
Message-ID: <1996Oct4.231751.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Just curious, have you talked to anybody associated with Stained Glass
Overlay?  They should consider this a competitor product and, hopefully are
on top of its performance (relative to theirs).  Check with your local
franchisee.

Mike Peck
Summit Stained Glass (aka -- "no SGO here, thank you")


At 05:53 PM 10/4/96 +0000, you wrote:
>Hi All,
>
>Well, now I've learned a bit more.  I found the ad in Glass Patterns
>Quarterly and contacted the manufacturer.  They will be sending us a package
>of more information so that we can make a better decision.  What I did find
>out is that this came requires no soldering at all and I am still uncertain
>if puttying is necessary or not; my guess is that it is.  Also a colored
>matched glue is available which it squeezed into the joints and cures so
>that you don't have to solder; and they mentioned that it will clean off
>glass when still wet with a damp rag, or can be trimmed with a utility knife
>when it has set up a bit.
>
>Currently they have only 3 colors available:  white, black, and gray.  The
>"H" channels are flexible and the outside "U" channels are rigid.  Currently
>the sizes available are:  3/16" and 1/4" Round H, 3/8" Flat H, and 1/2" Flat
>U.  The strips would come in 5 foot lengths (whereas lead is 6 feet).  Drat
>it all; I forgot to ask if it can be cut with lead nippers or if it requires
>a saw.  They did mention that their product line hasn't been firmed up since
>they are still such a new company and they are awaiting ideas and
>constructive criticism on their products.
>
>When I have more information, I would be happy to give you my opinions on
>this. I will admit up front that I am still skeptical because I don't think
>plastics will hold up so well over time.  If a large panel is made, how will
>support be added if you can't solder reinforcing bars or loops to insert the
>bars through? Will the plastic look either too fake and devalue the finished
>glass piece or detract (or distract) from the beauty of the glass?  This
>inquiring mind wants to know, too.
>
>Stephanie
>______________________________________________________________________
>Stephanie Braman       **  E-mail:  delphigl@voyager.net
>Delphi Stained Glass   **  WWW:     http://www.voyager.net/delphiglass
>2116 E. Michigan Ave.  **  Voice:   1-800-248-2048 (USA,Canada)
>Lansing, MI  48912     **           1-517-482-2617 (International)
>USA                    **  Fax:     1-800-748-0374 (USA,Canada)
>                                    1-517-482-4028 (International)
>_____________________________________________________________________
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>

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From owner-glass Fri Oct  4 17:10:18 1996
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@mars.superlink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: crashes
Date: Fri, 04 Oct 1996 20:05:14 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct4.16514.0>
References: <<1996Oct4.231751.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

does anyone here use netscape 3.0? lately i've been having crashes from
certain mailings from this group. the address of michu-g@lodz.pdi.net
seems to be one of the one that's doing it most. there using Smail, but
others are also using Smail, so i'm not sure whats going on. the only
way i've been able to fix it, is to edit the file directly.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
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From owner-glass Fri Oct  4 17:17:08 1996
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	id m0v9KQB-0000Tca; Fri, 4 Oct 96 17:16 PDT
X-Path: mail.nildram.co.uk!glass
From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: doberman
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@mail.nildram.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 5 Oct 1996 00:50:46 +0000
Message-ID: <199610050015.BAA01879@linux.nildram.co.uk>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

FEFranks  - "frogfoot"
what a wonderful e-mail address!!! Welcome aboard! Glad to hear from 
you!

If all else fails, go along to your local vetinary clinic and / or
hospital and ask them for a  "dog chart", which - of course - should 
include the doberman. From this chart, you should then be able to 
create a suitable design. Splendid dogs they are. We have a number of 
Dobermans in my village, where I live "Across the Pond", my favorite 
is a  female  total "softie" called Tara.
I have made a number of stained glass dog panels, including a 
Pekinese. (the others were poodles, beagles, labradores, bloodhounds 
and Old English Sheepdogs). If I can help further, please let me know.
Elisabeth 'n Toby
----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
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From owner-glass Fri Oct  4 17:17:09 1996
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: RE: PlastiCame
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@mail.nildram.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 5 Oct 1996 00:50:46 +0000
Message-ID: <199610050015.BAA01834@linux.nildram.co.uk>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

>From Stepanie at Delphi on 4th oOctober, having ordered her first lot 
of plasticame.....

....Dunno here.... perhaps I'm just a bit old fashioned. Just don't 
like the sound of this.
Why just stop at  having plastic edging lead, let's go the "whole 
hog" and replace ALL lead with plastic and ALL glass with plastic 
panes  or coloured plastic adhesive films. 
Come BACK cheap. nasty, producers from the Far East; ALL is forgiven 
- AT LEAST you produce REAL glass and REAL lead!
I am not at all adverse to new ideas and new technology, far from it.
In a way I equate it with this analogy; when you sit down to dinner, 
what would you rather drink your red wine out of? A plastic mug or a 
hand-cut lead crystal glass??
And NO, I am not a snob,. give me an ordinary glass tumbler 
(preferably large) full of wine and I will devour it with immense 
gusto; but glass is glass, lead is lead and plastic is plastic. I 
design and make traditional stained glass leaded panels. I bow to and 
respect tradition and I work within that confines of tradition. To 
me, plastic has no place in that area - but it's great for use in the 
microwave and for picknicks and great for using in new automotive 
tecnology ( car), for medical/surgical applications and many, many 
other fields.  Some years ago, I got briefly involved with the 
plastic imitation "wave" of stained glass. Coloured plastic film was 
attached to double glazed panels, on top of which  adhesive 
strips of lead were "stuck" onto the glass and the plastic film. It 
became quite a "vogue" in the UK for a while and even spilled over 
into the DIY-industry.Then the adhesive lead got replaced by plastic 
"lead-effect" strips. It was AWFUL!
Plastic cames !!??
Please do think twice!!
Elisabeth ' Toby
----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
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From owner-glass Fri Oct  4 17:23:25 1996
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X-Path: aimnet.com!tcolson
From: Tom Colson <tcolson@aimnet.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: crashes
Date: Fri, 04 Oct 1996 17:20:04 -0700
Message-ID: <1996Oct4.10204.0>
References: <<1996Oct4.16514.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Tiles On The Web:  http://www.aimnet.com/~tcolson/webtiles.htm
Precedence: bulk

Hi Mike-

Same problem here. The only solution I've found is the same one you
have:  edit your "inbox" file in the mail directory and delete the
offending message.  I'm betting that the crashes are due to some
encoding snafu since the messages originate in Europe. May be a bug in
Netscape.

Regards,

Tom


M. Savad wrote:
> 
> does anyone here use netscape 3.0? lately i've been having crashes from
> certain mailings from this group. the address of michu-g@lodz.pdi.net
> seems to be one of the one that's doing it most. there using Smail, but
> others are also using Smail, so i'm not sure whats going on. the only
> way i've been able to fix it, is to edit the file directly.
> 
> ---Mike Savad

-- 
Tom Colson
tcolson@aimnet.com
Tiles On The Web: http://www.aimnet.com/~tcolson/webtiles.htm
The web site for handmade tiles.

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From owner-glass Fri Oct  4 19:07:38 1996
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X-Path: newtech.net!frogfoot
From: FEFranks <frogfoot@newtech.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: crashes
Date: Fri, 04 Oct 1996 22:05:49 +0000
Message-ID: <1.5.4.32.19961004220549.0066b054@POP3.newtech.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

At 05:20 PM 10/4/96 -0700, you wrote:
>Hi Mike-
>
>Same problem here. The only solution I've found is the same one you
>have:  edit your "inbox" file in the mail directory and delete the
>offending message.  I'm betting that the crashes are due to some
>encoding snafu since the messages originate in Europe. May be a bug in
>Netscape.
>
>Regards,
>
>Tom
>
>
>M. Savad wrote:
>> 
>> does anyone here use netscape 3.0? lately i've been having crashes from
>> certain mailings from this group. the address of michu-g@lodz.pdi.net
>> seems to be one of the one that's doing it most. there using Smail, but
>> others are also using Smail, so i'm not sure whats going on. the only
>> way i've been able to fix it, is to edit the file directly.
>> 
>> ---Mike Savad
>
>-- 
>Tom Colson
>tcolson@aimnet.com
>Tiles On The Web: http://www.aimnet.com/~tcolson/webtiles.htm
>The web site for handmade tiles.
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
>I recently dl'd Netscape 3.0 and have been unable to use the mail part of
the program also. I think it is a bug in the program. I switched to Eudora
light and  have not had any further problems.

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From owner-glass Fri Oct  4 19:24:52 1996
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	id m0v9MPj-000175a; Fri, 4 Oct 96 19:24 PDT
X-Path: macnet.com!jhendershott
From: "J. Hendershott" <jhendershott@macnet.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: crashes
Date: Fri, 04 Oct 1996 19:27:46 -0700
Message-ID: <1996Oct4.122746.0>
References: <<1.5.4.32.19961004220549.0066b054@POP3.newtech.net>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

> >Same problem here. The only solution I've found is the same one you
> >have:  edit your "inbox" file in the mail directory and delete the
> >offending message.  I'm betting that the crashes are due to some
> >encoding snafu since the messages originate in Europe. May be a bug in
> >Netscape.

> >> does anyone here use netscape 3.0? lately i've been having crashes from
> >> certain mailings from this group. the address of michu-g@lodz.pdi.net
> >> seems to be one of the one that's doing it most. there using Smail, but
> >> others are also using Smail, so i'm not sure whats going on. the only
> >> way i've been able to fix it, is to edit the file directly.

> >I recently dl'd Netscape 3.0 and have been unable to use the mail part of
> the program also. I think it is a bug in the program. I switched to Eudora
> light and  have not had any further problems.

Add me to the list too. My Netscape 3.0 crashes when I am retrieving
messages. I haven't noticed if any specific message brings it down,
because I can't read them after the crash. Sounds like a netscape bug.
Janie
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From owner-glass Fri Oct  4 19:43:07 1996
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From: "J. Hendershott" <jhendershott@macnet.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Inbox Bug
Date: Fri, 04 Oct 1996 19:46:20 -0700
Message-ID: <1996Oct4.124620.0>
References: <<1996Oct4.122746.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

> Add me to the list too. My Netscape 3.0 crashes when I am retrieving
> messages. I haven't noticed if any specific message brings it down,
> because I can't read them after the crash. Sounds like a netscape bug.

I just checked out the netscape usergroup and found the answer to the
problem. It is a bug in netscape related to the date on a message. Go to
the Netscape usergroup and look for the messages on "INBOX BUG". Now I
have to see if I can figure out what they're talking about.
Janie
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From owner-glass Fri Oct  4 20:00:28 1996
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Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6)
	id m0v9MyE-0000GOa; Fri, 4 Oct 96 20:00 PDT
X-Path: arn.net!loveta
From: "Loveta" <loveta@arn.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: crashes
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 1996 22:00:35 -0500
Message-ID: <199610050257.VAA24654@arnet.arn.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I have had so many crashes I gave up.  I am now using microsoft, with no
mail problems.

Loveta

----------
> From: M. Savad <morn@mars.superlink.net>
> To: glass@bungi.com
> Subject: crashes
> Date: Friday, October 04, 1996 7:05 PM
> 
> does anyone here use netscape 3.0? lately i've been having crashes from
> certain mailings from this group. the address of michu-g@lodz.pdi.net
> seems to be one of the one that's doing it most. there using Smail, but
> others are also using Smail, so i'm not sure whats going on. the only
> way i've been able to fix it, is to edit the file directly.
> 
> ---Mike Savad
> 
> -- 
> Mike's Stained Glass
> http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
----
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From owner-glass Fri Oct  4 20:01:16 1996
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6)
	id m0v9Mz5-0000VCa; Fri, 4 Oct 96 20:00 PDT
X-Path: intrastar.net!ssuter
From: Shirley Suter <ssuter@intrastar.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: RE:  Crashes
Date: Fri, 04 Oct 1996 21:52:35 -0500
Message-ID: <1996Oct4.165235.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Suter's Stained Glass - (409) 687-3841
Precedence: bulk

NOT GLASS RELATED!

Hi there Crashed Mail Folks!!!

If you are using Netscape 3.0 (I'm using it with no problems, knock on
wood), there are several other options to consider.

For you Windows 95 people, you can use Explorer available for
downloading at  http://www.microsoft.com/ie/ 

For the users of Windows 3.1, you can use Eudora available for
downloading at  http://www.eudora.com

If you need any further assistance, please contact me personally at:
ssuter@intrastar.net and I will help any way I can.

Professional Stained Glass Artist 
and Internet Service Provider,
Shirley Suter
Grapeland, Tx.
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From owner-glass Fri Oct  4 20:39:11 1996
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Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6)
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X-Path: tpgi.com.au!llutz
From: llutz <llutz@tpgi.com.au>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: crashes
Date: Sat, 05 Oct 1996 13:38:13 +1100
Message-ID: <1996Oct6.03813.0>
References: <<1996Oct4.16514.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

M. Savad wrote:
> 
> does anyone here use netscape 3.0? lately i've been having crashes from
> certain mailings from this group. the address of michu-g@lodz.pdi.net
> seems to be one of the one that's doing it most. there using Smail, but
> others are also using Smail, so i'm not sure whats going on. the only
> way i've been able to fix it, is to edit the file directly.
> 
> ---Mike Savad
> 
> --
> Mike's Stained Glass
> http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
I too have crashed Netscape 3.0 twice in the last day. I had just
composed an email to a site unrelated to glass- clicked send and was
informed that an illegal operation had taken place- when I restarted- of
course the email was lost- However- I can't associate it with the glass
list.
Larry from Minore

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From owner-glass Fri Oct  4 21:30:32 1996
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X-Path: arn.net!loveta
From: "Loveta" <loveta@arn.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: Crashes
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 1996 23:29:49 -0500
Message-ID: <199610050426.XAA00776@arnet.arn.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Evidently you have not had the problems, we have had.  It gets so bad it
even freezes up my new computer.

Loveta

----------
> From: Shirley Suter <ssuter@intrastar.net>
> To: glass@bungi.com
> Subject: RE:  Crashes
> Date: Friday, October 04, 1996 9:52 PM
> 
> NOT GLASS RELATED!
> 
> Hi there Crashed Mail Folks!!!
> 
> If you are using Netscape 3.0 (I'm using it with no problems, knock on
> wood), there are several other options to consider.
> 
> For you Windows 95 people, you can use Explorer available for
> downloading at  http://www.microsoft.com/ie/ 
> 
> For the users of Windows 3.1, you can use Eudora available for
> downloading at  http://www.eudora.com
> 
> If you need any further assistance, please contact me personally at:
> ssuter@intrastar.net and I will help any way I can.
> 
> Professional Stained Glass Artist 
> and Internet Service Provider,
> Shirley Suter
> Grapeland, Tx.
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
----
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From owner-glass Sat Oct  5 02:56:58 1996
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	id m0v9TT9-0000csa; Sat, 5 Oct 96 02:56 PDT
X-Path: source.com.au!aking
From: Andrea King <aking@source.com.au>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Dragonfly
Date: Fri, 04 Oct 1996 19:57:20 -0700
Message-ID: <1996Oct4.125720.0>
References: <<199610040018.BAA23223@linux.nildram.co.uk>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Elizabeth wrote:
> 

> I'll be happy to share my evaluation experiences with those of you
> interested. Still have all my notes and correspondence with them.
> On or off the Group...

Elizabeth,

I'd love to hear your views, on or off the group.  I am thinking about 
acquiring the Dragonfly program while I'm in the USA in December.  How is 
that I'm of to USA soooooon, and getting very  excited.

Andrea
Melb, Australia

----
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From owner-glass Sat Oct  5 04:51:18 1996
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Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6)
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X-Path: lodz.pdi.net!michu-g
From: "=?ISO-8859-2?Q?Grzegorz_Gier=B3owski?=" <michu-g@lodz.pdi.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: crushes
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2096 12:50:41 +0100
Message-ID: <199610051150.MAA09003@gryzmak.lodz.pdi.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Here at michu-g@lodz.pdi.net we are using Microsoft Internet Explorer
for Windows 95.As you know there's soft-war between the two
/Netscape the other oponent/ - maybe this plus time difference
couses problems althou we never had any.
As for european trouble-makers:-SHOOT THEM FIRST THAN look for bugs
in your software!

Greg

----------
> From: Andrea King <aking@source.com.au>
> To: glass@bungi.com
> Subject: Dragonfly
> Date: 5 pa=BCdziernika 1996 03:57
>=20
> Elizabeth wrote:
> >=20
>=20
> > I'll be happy to share my evaluation experiences with those of you
> > interested. Still have all my notes and correspondence with them.
> > On or off the Group...
>=20
> Elizabeth,
>=20
> I'd love to hear your views, on or off the group.  I am thinking about =

> acquiring the Dragonfly program while I'm in the USA in December.  How =
is=20
> that I'm of to USA soooooon, and getting very  excited.
>=20
> Andrea
> Melb, Australia
>=20
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
----
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From owner-glass Sat Oct  5 06:42:56 1996
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6)
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X-Path: lodz.pdi.net!michu-g
From: "=?ISO-8859-2?Q?Grzegorz_Gier=B3owski?=" <michu-g@lodz.pdi.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: your experience with software & beveling equipment
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2096 14:25:16 +0100
Message-ID: <199610051342.OAA11594@gryzmak.lodz.pdi.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi,
Thanks for sharing your experience on software.
Is there a program to do designing for half-ball shaped
lamp-shades or flat panels' shades?
Best regards
Greg
----------
> From: B J Snell <bjs10@cornell.edu>
> To: glass@bungi.com
> Subject: Re: your experience with software & beveling equipment
> Date: 3 pa=BCdziernika 1996 11:41
>=20
> At , you wrote:
> >Hi,
> >Can anyone having experience or good knowledge of following topics =
=3D
> >advice me
> >about  choosing best products I'm about to buy?:
> >1/ How do you compare S.G. designing computer software-Dragonfly's =
=3D
> >"Glass eye"
> >versus Micro  Glass Corp.'s "Glass magic" both for Windows 95 IBM  PC =
=3D
> >standart.
> >Knowing that first one is for flat pieces only while second has also =
=3D
> >flat panel's
> >lamps shades designing option I,m curious if second software can do =
all =3D
> >that first can as far as flat
> >pieces are concerned /size of your work and printing/plotting =3D
> >facilities./
> >How do they work practicaly in everyday use and if there are =
advantages =3D
> >of one how does it stand against
> >price difference if there is one /how much is "Glass magic"?/
> >
>       Greetings Greg:
>               I purchased Glass Magic and had to get three sets of the =
discs
> before I was able to install them.  The first two sets were defective. =
 When
> I finally was able to work with the program I found the clip art to be =
limited.
> The cost of the program runs around thirty dollars.  The program that =
I used
> was for Windows 3.1 .... I do not have Windows 95... so I am not sure =
that
> the programs are exactly the same.  I did not notice a designing =
option in
> the Glass Magic software.  I took it off my hard drive and plan on =
donating
> it to the high school for a beginners class if they choose to try one. =
If
> you would like more information about Glass Magic, their internet =
address is
> MicroGlass@aol.com. =20
>                 You can get a lot of information about The Glass Eye =
at:
>   glasseye@dfly.com   and     http://www.dfly.com.  At that sight you =
can
> register with the firm, they will send you additional information =
about the
> program.  The site also has a demonstration feature of The Glass Eye =
program.
> I received my information from them just yesterday.  The program costs =
about
> $150.00.  =20
>                 Hope this helps a little...
>=20
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
----
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From owner-glass Sat Oct  5 07:05:24 1996
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X-Path: aristotle.net!rwsmith
From: Rebecca Smith <rwsmith@aristotle.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Crashs
Date: Sat, 5 Oct 1996 09:41:56 -0500
Message-ID: <2.2.16.19961005090810.300704d8@aristotle.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi All:

We had problems with Netscape 3.0 crashing while on the Net. We have always
used Eudora Light and now Eudora Pro and have not had any mail problems at
all. When we started having problems on the Net we just switched back to
2.02. All problems solved.

Rebecca Smith (rwsmith@aristotle.net)

----
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From owner-glass Sat Oct  5 07:21:25 1996
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X-Path: lodz.pdi.net!michu-g
From: "=?ISO-8859-2?Q?Grzegorz_Gier=B3owski?=" <michu-g@lodz.pdi.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: PlastiCame
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2096 15:21:01 +0100
Message-ID: <199610051420.PAA13455@gryzmak.lodz.pdi.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

What a great idea to prevent soldering  health hazards.
Let's switch to plastic panels and shades-additional
advantage is that we could get high on plastic's adhesives.
While working on that ," a must" is to listen to Plastic Ono Band.
Results guaranteed. /J.Lennon please forgive -it was her influence/
Greg - your plastic surgeon
----------
> From: Toby <toby@northlights.co.uk>
> To: glass@bungi.com
> Subject: RE: PlastiCame
> Date: 5 pa=BCdziernika 1996 01:50
>=20
> >From Stepanie at Delphi on 4th oOctober, having ordered her first lot =

> of plasticame.....
>=20
> ....Dunno here.... perhaps I'm just a bit old fashioned. Just don't=20
> like the sound of this.
> Why just stop at  having plastic edging lead, let's go the "whole=20
> hog" and replace ALL lead with plastic and ALL glass with plastic=20
> panes  or coloured plastic adhesive films.=20
> Come BACK cheap. nasty, producers from the Far East; ALL is forgiven=20
> - AT LEAST you produce REAL glass and REAL lead!
> I am not at all adverse to new ideas and new technology, far from it.
> In a way I equate it with this analogy; when you sit down to dinner,=20
> what would you rather drink your red wine out of? A plastic mug or a=20
> hand-cut lead crystal glass??
> And NO, I am not a snob,. give me an ordinary glass tumbler=20
> (preferably large) full of wine and I will devour it with immense=20
> gusto; but glass is glass, lead is lead and plastic is plastic. I=20
> design and make traditional stained glass leaded panels. I bow to and=20
> respect tradition and I work within that confines of tradition. To=20
> me, plastic has no place in that area - but it's great for use in the=20
> microwave and for picknicks and great for using in new automotive=20
> tecnology ( car), for medical/surgical applications and many, many=20
> other fields.  Some years ago, I got briefly involved with the=20
> plastic imitation "wave" of stained glass. Coloured plastic film was=20
> attached to double glazed panels, on top of which  adhesive=20
> strips of lead were "stuck" onto the glass and the plastic film. It=20
> became quite a "vogue" in the UK for a while and even spilled over=20
> into the DIY-industry.Then the adhesive lead got replaced by plastic=20
> "lead-effect" strips. It was AWFUL!
> Plastic cames !!??
> Please do think twice!!
> Elisabeth ' Toby
> ----
> As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
> North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
> http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm=20
> ----
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
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----
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From owner-glass Sat Oct  5 07:56:55 1996
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@mars.superlink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: crashes
Date: Sat, 05 Oct 1996 10:50:49 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct5.65049.0>
References: <<1.5.4.32.19961004220549.0066b054@POP3.newtech.net>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

FEFranks wrote:
> 
> At 05:20 PM 10/4/96 -0700, you wrote:
> >Hi Mike-
> >
> >Same problem here. The only solution I've found is the same one you
> >have:  edit your "inbox" file in the mail directory and delete the
> >offending message.  I'm betting that the crashes are due to some
> >encoding snafu since the messages originate in Europe. May be a bug in
> >Netscape.
> >
> >Regards,
> >
> >Tom
> >
> >
> >M. Savad wrote:
> >>
> >> does anyone here use netscape 3.0? lately i've been having crashes from
> >> certain mailings from this group. the address of michu-g@lodz.pdi.net
> >> seems to be one of the one that's doing it most. there using Smail, but
> >> others are also using Smail, so i'm not sure whats going on. the only
> >> way i've been able to fix it, is to edit the file directly.
> >>
> >> ---Mike Savad
> >
> >--
> >Tom Colson
> >tcolson@aimnet.com
> >Tiles On The Web: http://www.aimnet.com/~tcolson/webtiles.htm
> >The web site for handmade tiles.
> >
> >----
> >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> >To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> >
> >I recently dl'd Netscape 3.0 and have been unable to use the mail part of
> the program also. I think it is a bug in the program. I switched to Eudora
> light and  have not had any further problems.
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

the main problem is, is that it just started to happen, i've had
netscape 3.0 since beta 2, and never had this particular problem, so
whatever is happening, it's that one persons' mailers' fault.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
----
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From owner-glass Sat Oct  5 07:58:29 1996
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@mars.superlink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: crashes
Date: Sat, 05 Oct 1996 10:53:39 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct5.65339.0>
References: <<1996Oct4.122746.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

J. Hendershott wrote:
> 
> > >Same problem here. The only solution I've found is the same one you
> > >have:  edit your "inbox" file in the mail directory and delete the
> > >offending message.  I'm betting that the crashes are due to some
> > >encoding snafu since the messages originate in Europe. May be a bug in
> > >Netscape.
> 
> > >> does anyone here use netscape 3.0? lately i've been having crashes from
> > >> certain mailings from this group. the address of michu-g@lodz.pdi.net
> > >> seems to be one of the one that's doing it most. there using Smail, but
> > >> others are also using Smail, so i'm not sure whats going on. the only
> > >> way i've been able to fix it, is to edit the file directly.
> 
> > >I recently dl'd Netscape 3.0 and have been unable to use the mail part of
> > the program also. I think it is a bug in the program. I switched to Eudora
> > light and  have not had any further problems.
> 
> Add me to the list too. My Netscape 3.0 crashes when I am retrieving
> messages. I haven't noticed if any specific message brings it down,
> because I can't read them after the crash. Sounds like a netscape bug.
> Janie
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

well, either way, netscape still crashes because of one person, now i
don't want to make one person feel bad, i just want that person to stop
using what their using and go back to what they were using before.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
----
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From owner-glass Sat Oct  5 08:01:31 1996
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@mars.superlink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Inbox Bug
Date: Sat, 05 Oct 1996 10:56:45 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct5.65645.0>
References: <<1996Oct4.124620.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

J. Hendershott wrote:
> 
> > Add me to the list too. My Netscape 3.0 crashes when I am retrieving
> > messages. I haven't noticed if any specific message brings it down,
> > because I can't read them after the crash. Sounds like a netscape bug.
> 
> I just checked out the netscape usergroup and found the answer to the
> problem. It is a bug in netscape related to the date on a message. Go to
> the Netscape usergroup and look for the messages on "INBOX BUG". Now I
> have to see if I can figure out what they're talking about.
> Janie
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

what is the name of the newsgroup?  the date thing sounds right when i
edited the file i noticed where it was supposed to say date, (using
Smail) instead it said =?iso-...something and did'nt say date at all.
though even after  fixing that it still crashed.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
----
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From owner-glass Sat Oct  5 08:05:33 1996
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@mars.superlink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: crashes
Date: Sat, 05 Oct 1996 10:59:32 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct5.65932.0>
References: <<199610050257.VAA24654@arnet.arn.net>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Loveta wrote:
> 
> I have had so many crashes I gave up.  I am now using microsoft, with no
> mail problems.
> 
> Loveta
> 
> ----------
> > From: M. Savad <morn@mars.superlink.net>
> > To: glass@bungi.com
> > Subject: crashes
> > Date: Friday, October 04, 1996 7:05 PM
> >
> > does anyone here use netscape 3.0? lately i've been having crashes from
> > certain mailings from this group. the address of michu-g@lodz.pdi.net
> > seems to be one of the one that's doing it most. there using Smail, but
> > others are also using Smail, so i'm not sure whats going on. the only
> > way i've been able to fix it, is to edit the file directly.
> >
> > ---Mike Savad
> >
> > --
> > Mike's Stained Glass
> > http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

is that the new microsoft that has the big bug in it, where it allows
the other side to break into your computer?

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
----
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From owner-glass Sat Oct  5 08:21:10 1996
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@mars.superlink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Crashes
Date: Sat, 05 Oct 1996 11:16:20 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct5.71620.0>
References: <<199610050426.XAA00776@arnet.arn.net>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Loveta wrote:
> 
> Evidently you have not had the problems, we have had.  It gets so bad it
> even freezes up my new computer.
> 
> Loveta
> 
> ----------
> > From: Shirley Suter <ssuter@intrastar.net>
> > To: glass@bungi.com
> > Subject: RE:  Crashes
> > Date: Friday, October 04, 1996 9:52 PM
> >
> > NOT GLASS RELATED!
> >
> > Hi there Crashed Mail Folks!!!
> >
> > If you are using Netscape 3.0 (I'm using it with no problems, knock on
> > wood), there are several other options to consider.
> >
> > For you Windows 95 people, you can use Explorer available for
> > downloading at  http://www.microsoft.com/ie/
> >
> > For the users of Windows 3.1, you can use Eudora available for
> > downloading at  http://www.eudora.com
> >
> > If you need any further assistance, please contact me personally at:
> > ssuter@intrastar.net and I will help any way I can.
> >
> > Professional Stained Glass Artist
> > and Internet Service Provider,
> > Shirley Suter
> > Grapeland, Tx.
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

yeah i know, now i know it's not glass related, but i don't want to
remove my self from the list. ok this part of the message is for the
e-mail address i posted earlier, for greg, try posting a few messages
with something else. it's just weird netscape crashes on only your
messages, i just delated yours from the inbox and from the mail cache,
and everything works fine now. the strange part is other people are also
using Smail and it's working just fine, the only difference is that
yours has =?iso-8859 etc before your name, and that seems to be crashing
everything. what it could be is either a bug on your side, or where you
put your name in it's says that iso thing. could you check on that, or
try to re-install it..thanks... it's jsut that it's crashing everyone.
and for all we know maybe you have a virus on your system that dissolved
a part of your mailer.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
----
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From owner-glass Sat Oct  5 08:31:20 1996
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X-Path: bright.net!joyce
From: Joyce Moran <joyce@bright.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: cutter caps and archives
Date: Sat, 05 Oct 1996 11:28:42 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct5.72842.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I'm interested in carrying the cutter caps in my retail store.  Someone 
described them a while back and at the time, I wasn't planning on buying 
them, so didn't save the post.  However today I went to the archives to 
try to retrieve the info....and got totally lost.  Is this post in there 
somewhere?  Is there an easy way to find it?  Or would it just be easier 
to post to the group?  I'm totally confused, and would like input on the 
achives, as well as my question about the source for cutter caps.

Thanks
Garden of Glass
Joyce Moran
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From owner-glass Sat Oct  5 08:32:57 1996
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From: "J. Hendershott" <jhendershott@macnet.com>
To: Glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: crashes
Date: Sat, 05 Oct 1996 08:36:08 -0700
Message-ID: <1996Oct5.1368.0>
References: <<199610051150.MAA09003@gryzmak.lodz.pdi.net>>
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=?ISO-8859-2?Q?Grzegorz_Gier=B3owski?= wrote:
> 
> Here at michu-g@lodz.pdi.net we are using Microsoft Internet Explorer
> for Windows 95.As you know there's soft-war between the two
> /Netscape the other oponent/ - maybe this plus time difference
> couses problems althou we never had any.
> As for european trouble-makers:-SHOOT THEM FIRST THAN look for bugs
> in your software!
> 
> Greg

Well Greg,
You had better duck the bullet, because according to my research, the
date on your posts is the problem bringing the netscape users down. The
dates on your posts are dated the year of 2096. This evidently can be
caused by two reasons. 
1. you system is set wrong, or
2. You are using a unix system that interprets the seconds of the time
as a formula that translates to 2096.
As soon as I change the date on your posts with a text editor to 1996
everything works fine. Darn ol netscape, I hope they fix it soon.
Information is available from the Netscape users news group listed under
"inbox bugs". If you can't locate it e-mail me back and I will send you
a copy of it.
By the way, I'm not complaining, just advising ;-)

Janie Hendershott
Portland Or
jhendershott@macnet.com
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From owner-glass Sat Oct  5 09:09:44 1996
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From: "J. Hendershott" <jhendershott@macnet.com>
To: "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: [Fwd: Re: E-mail Freezes]
Date: Sat, 05 Oct 1996 09:10:31 -0700
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

--------------466875577A04
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Here is the response I got from the news group. I reached the news group
from the Netscape home page. Near the bottom there is a link to tech
support, newsgroup and it is the navigator group.

Janie
jhendershott@macnet.com

--------------466875577A04
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Date: Fri, 04 Oct 1996 20:34:31 -0700
From: hb <hb@hevanet.com>
Reply-To: hb@hevanet.com
Organization: Hevanet
X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.0 (Win95; U; 16bit)
MIME-Version: 1.0
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J. Hendershott wrote:
> 
> I'm running Netscape 3.0 with Windows 3.1. Lately when I download my
> e-mail I get an error message "general protection fault Netscape.exe at
> 002D:10D3. I am forced to leave netscape and log back on. I can use the
> browser but not email or I get the same message again. If I go in and
> empty or delete my mail files using file manager, I can then use e-mail
> again. My entire mail directory is usually under 1 meg. What's going on
> here? I want to keep some of my e-mail.

It's recently been noted that certain mail message dates are corrupting
the file.  Open INBOX with NOTEPAD and copy/paste any mail you want
to save.  Mail folders are text files.

If you see a message date in INBOX that's above the year 2038, change
it to 1996 and save.  Or simply rename the file to INBOX.BAK as your
archive.  Netscape will built a new INBOX next time mail is received.

-- 
No expertise claimed.  Corrections welcomed.  Please post to the group.


--------------466875577A04--


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From owner-glass Sat Oct  5 09:30:26 1996
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From: leestat <leestat@gte.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: crashes
Date: Sat, 05 Oct 1996 12:27:59 -0700
Message-ID: <1996Oct5.52759.0>
References: <<1996Oct4.16514.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Lee Boe
Precedence: bulk

M. Savad wrote:
> 
> does anyone here use netscape 3.0? lately i've been having crashes from
> certain mailings from this group. the address of michu-g@lodz.pdi.net
> seems to be one of the one that's doing it most. 
<snip>

Yes, I have crashed a couple of times-all the way out to c:/ prompt,
when receiving mail from this group-but I had no idea why.  

Lee Boe
Rain-Boe's Creations
>
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From owner-glass Sat Oct  5 10:15:52 1996
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From: B J Snell <bjs10@cornell.edu>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: crashes
Date: Sat, 5 Oct 1996 13:15:12 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <2.2.16.19961005131523.23dfbefc@postoffice.mail.cornell.edu>
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At 12:27 PM 10/5/96 -0700, you wrote:
>M. Savad wrote:
>> 
>> does anyone here use netscape 3.0? lately i've been having crashes from
>> certain mailings from this group. the address of michu-g@lodz.pdi.net
>> seems to be one of the one that's doing it most. 
        
                This is very odd,  I have netscape mail also and have had no
problems at all..... except it runs slow.

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From owner-glass Sat Oct  5 10:26:15 1996
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From: Lew Waldeck <lwaldeck@internexus.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: crashes
Date: Sat, 05 Oct 1996 12:48:18 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct5.84818.0>
References: <<1996Oct4.16514.0>>
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M. Savad wrote:
> 
> does anyone here use netscape 3.0? lately i've been having crashes from
> certain mailings from this group. the address of michu-g@lodz.pdi.net
> seems to be one of the one that's doing it most. there using Smail, but
> others are also using Smail, so i'm not sure whats going on. the only
> way i've been able to fix it, is to edit the file directly.
> 
> ---Mike Savad
> 
> --
> Mike's Stained Glass
> http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
Yes, I've had the same problems and thought iot was my system or perhaps
my net provider.  I don't know what it is cause I can't find a way to
see the messages other than reading the inbox files directly. Nothing
seems wrong, but then I don't know what the files are supposed to look
like.

Lew Waldeck

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From owner-glass Sat Oct  5 10:28:09 1996
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From: maruca@netaxs.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Crashes
Date: Sat, 5 Oct 1996 13:27:23 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <1996Oct5.92723.0>
References: <<1996Oct5.71620.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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Dear Mike, 

I have reproduced below for the sake of those just entering this
discussion. Readers who are familiar with the crashes should skip the
quoted material.

You are incorrect in stating that Greg "crashes everyone." Unix with Pine
is the internet cross I bear, yet it has no problems at all with his
posts. So please, be a little less universal in your assertions. Not
everyone has a problem simply because you do. 

Do you suppose that the real problem is that Netscape is xenophobic and
unable to read anything but ASCII? I know Pine gives me a notice that some
ISO characters maybe displayed incorrectly, but at least it toddles along,
throwing something on the screen.

Mary


On Sat, 5 Oct 1996, M. Savad wrote:


> 
> yeah i know, now i know it's not glass related, but i don't want to
> remove my self from the list. ok this part of the message is for the
> e-mail address i posted earlier, for greg, try posting a few messages
> with something else. it's just weird netscape crashes on only your
> messages, i just delated yours from the inbox and from the mail cache,
> and everything works fine now. the strange part is other people are also
> using Smail and it's working just fine, the only difference is that
> yours has =?iso-8859 etc before your name, and that seems to be crashing
> everything. what it could be is either a bug on your side, or where you
> put your name in it's says that iso thing. could you check on that, or
> try to re-install it..thanks... it's jsut that it's crashing everyone.
> and for all we know maybe you have a virus on your system that dissolved
> a part of your mailer.
> 
> ---Mike Savad
> 

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From owner-glass Sat Oct  5 10:34:07 1996
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From: gjr@bungi.com (Glenna Rand)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Crashes
Date: Sat, 5 Oct 1996 10:33:41 PDT
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> I have reproduced below for the sake of those just entering this
> discussion. Readers who are familiar with the crashes should skip the

Please send crash messages to individuals who care and not to the
whole list.  Thank you.....


-- 
Glenna Rand
gjr@bungi.com
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From owner-glass Sat Oct  5 10:51:33 1996
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From: Shirley Suter <ssuter@intrastar.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re:  PlastiCame
Date: Sat, 05 Oct 1996 12:42:55 -0500
Message-ID: <1996Oct5.74255.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Suter's Stained Glass - (409) 687-3841
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I'm sure that PlastiCame will have its place......I plan to use it
myself on the next entryway and tub surround order I get for Barbie and
Ken's Dreamhouse.

Your Plastic Pal You Love To Be With,
Gumby and Pokey :)
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From owner-glass Sat Oct  5 10:52:57 1996
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From: cubacigrco@juno.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Toxic fumes
Date: Sat, 5 Oct 1996 12:12:04 PST
Message-ID: <1996Oct5.20124.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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Hi all,
Just read April's message. I am 4 months pregnant and was told the
lead-free solder I was usiing was ok. Now, I'm beginning to wonder and
am also questioning the fumes from anything else, like flux, etc. And no, I won't get near came until  the baby is no longer nursing. Any comments?
Michele
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From owner-glass Sat Oct  5 11:03:48 1996
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From: Linda Campbell <lcbell@memach.com>
To: "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: RE: PlastiCame
Date: Sat, 5 Oct 1996 14:04:28 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct5.10428.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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Here, here, Shirley. I love a good rollicking thread - besides the thread 
on the crashes, this is the only thing that has kept me sane today, on this 
non-work day and I'm in here slaving away. Well, back to the drawing board. 
I want to get out of here early.

Linda


----------
From: 	Shirley Suter[SMTP:ssuter@intrastar.net]
Sent: 	Saturday, October 05, 1996 1:42 PM
To: 	glass@bungi.com
Subject: 	Re:  PlastiCame

I'm sure that PlastiCame will have its place......I plan to use it
myself on the next entryway and tub surround order I get for Barbie and
Ken's Dreamhouse.

Your Plastic Pal You Love To Be With,
Gumby and Pokey :)
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From owner-glass Sat Oct  5 11:15:33 1996
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From: "J. Hendershott" <jhendershott@macnet.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Crashes
Date: Sat, 05 Oct 1996 11:18:32 -0700
Message-ID: <1996Oct5.41832.0>
References: <<m0v9abe-0000L5C@daver.bungi.com>>
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Glenna Rand wrote:
> 
> > I have reproduced below for the sake of those just entering this
> > discussion. Readers who are familiar with the crashes should skip the
> 
> Please send crash messages to individuals who care and not to the
> whole list.  Thank you.....
> 
> --
> Glenna Rand
> gjr@bungi.com
	
Glenna

I would have thought that as the moderator of this list that YOU "would
care" if many of the subscribers were having major problems with their
entire e-mail due to the postings of one individual. I realize Greg has
nothing to do personally with the problem, however the way in which his
program or system interacts with those using netscape 3.0, which is
quite a few, does appear to be the problem. We were simply trouble
shooting and since there is no way for anyone to know who is running
Netscape 3.0, the list is the appropriate place to post the solution.
All messages were clearly marked crashes and could have been deleted by
those not effected. 
I find it quite interesting that this is the only topic you have chosen
to censor.

Janie
jhendershott@macnet.com
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From owner-glass Sat Oct  5 13:18:19 1996
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: crashes
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@mail.nildram.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 5 Oct 1996 20:51:35 +0000
Message-ID: <199610052016.VAA20070@linux.nildram.co.uk>
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Crashes due to Netscape 3? Originating in Europe?
Hi Mike,
I am using Netscape 2, so hope it's not me...
Elisabeth 'n Toby
----
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http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
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From owner-glass Sat Oct  5 13:18:20 1996
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Dragonfly
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@mail.nildram.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 5 Oct 1996 20:51:35 +0000
Message-ID: <199610052016.VAA20035@linux.nildram.co.uk>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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OK, Guys, 
Would help if you asked me specific questions about "how does it do 
so-and-so"; I have already mentioned one rather neat feature, e.g. 
the step-by-step-by-step "undo" and likewhise " restore".
One thing my version does not do (yet): the programme cannot receive 
external images from a scanner or scanning device (I use a little 
conversion box attached to my fax machine), but Michael Wilkes tells 
me that this is planned for the next up-date of the programme. 
You can make your drawings using hair-line lines, to "heart" widths 
lines, using only lead width lines or using heart and lead width 
lines in combination. That feature too is quite neat. You can even 
design 3d copper-foil projects; my first attempt was a bat. Michael 
Wilk was quite "polite" about it, but suggested  several ways how 
to improve my computer techniques with his programme. Another thing I 
found I couln't do, was to add captions/text to the drawings within 
the Dragonfly programme.  (e.g. as short explanations to customer). 
However,  I was probably being too "picky". In any case, I had a 
visitor a couple of weeks ago, who is a recent retired Chair of a  a University 
Faculty of  Computer Technology. He spent a couple of hours playing 
with the programme in my study. When he finally emerged downstairs to 
join the rest of us, he told me he thought the programme was very 
good. The Dragonfly also uses another feature called "spline"; it 
took my UK "computer guru" (and me) a little while to  really 
understand the meaning of this; but my overseas visitor just nooded 
his head sagely in approval.....
The colour palette, by the way,  contains 16 million possible 
variations..... Phew...!
I have tried all sorts of other CAD programmes on other peoples' 
systems, but never got to grip with any of them; I have followed 
comments and findings of other people about programmes like or 
similar to the Corel-Draw series, and always been put off. I am 
basically a total "computer nerd"; I can't even get to grips with the 
accounting programme my accountant installed for me (to make HIS work 
easier!).  So I was pleasantly surprised to find that I could 
actually get my head round Dragonfly. And yes, Michael didn't let me 
down. I don't think you will have any problem with "after sales 
support" there.
Your questions please!
Elisabeth 'n Toby
----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
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From owner-glass Sat Oct  5 13:51:07 1996
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re:  PlastiCame
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@mail.nildram.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 5 Oct 1996 21:23:45 +0000
Message-ID: <199610052048.VAA22883@linux.nildram.co.uk>
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Shirley Suter: Plasticame has its place...

Ok, Shirley, I know I sounded sceptical. That doesn't stop me from 
waiting to hear with great interest how you got on with your project.
Keep us posted.
Elisabeth 'n Toby
----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
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From owner-glass Sat Oct  5 16:31:47 1996
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From: "Albert Lewis [IGGA]" <70544.3642@CompuServe.COM>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Infinite loop?
Date: 05 Oct 96 19:29:39 EDT
Message-ID: <1996Oct5.232939.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


Mike,

I sympathize with your mail/crashing problem ... could you tell me if there's a
way (I may have asked this before) for you (and others?) to respond to messages
on the group without repeating the message you're replying to?

Oftentimes, the previous message also contains *your previous ... and your
previous contains *their previous, sort of like an infinite Russian doll.  I
find myself hitting the spacebar again and again, hoping to eventually see your
short message after pages and pages of previous messages.

Don't get me wrong ... I'm not angry, just hoping for a cleaner, leaner thread.
<s>

Albert

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From owner-glass Sat Oct  5 16:31:49 1996
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From: "Albert Lewis [IGGA]" <70544.3642@CompuServe.COM>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re:  PlastiCame
Date: 05 Oct 96 19:29:46 EDT
Message-ID: <1996Oct5.232946.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


   >the next entryway and tub surround order I get for Barbie and
   >Ken's Dreamhouse.

ROFL!

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From owner-glass Sat Oct  5 16:31:49 1996
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From: "Albert Lewis [IGGA]" <70544.3642@CompuServe.COM>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: crashes
Date: 05 Oct 96 19:29:40 EDT
Message-ID: <1996Oct5.232940.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


Janie,

Just by way of input, I haven't had any crashes at all on the date field. I'm
running TapCIS via CIS ... an offline reader over CompuServe.

Albert

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From owner-glass Sat Oct  5 16:32:22 1996
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From: "Albert Lewis [IGGA]" <70544.3642@CompuServe.COM>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: Bevels-Fumes
Date: 05 Oct 96 19:29:49 EDT
Message-ID: <1996Oct5.232949.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


   >The only thing that I haven't been completely satisfied with is the fact
   >the files are saved as ".eye" and I really would rather have been able to
   >save them as ".tif" or ".gif" and hopefully been able to use them with
   >other programs.

If it's like most other programs, you should be able to go FILE | SAVE AS and be
presented with a list of options, including .GIF and .TIF  ... the other
possibility is that you might be able to FILE | EXPORT AS either (or more) of
those file types.  (FILE should be at the left-hand end of the tool bar along
the top, although I'll admit I haven't *seen the program, but am assuming that
it's set up similar to most others.)

   >American Bevel.  ... recent "registered" version contains over 150
   >clusters.

Wow!  I really *do have to load the disk that's at my left hand.  I do! <g>

Albert

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From owner-glass Sat Oct  5 18:06:29 1996
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X-Path: primeline.com!vgplugs
From: April Paine <vgplugs@primeline.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Toxic Fumes
Date: Sat, 05 Oct 1996 21:10:04 -0700
Message-ID: <1996Oct5.14104.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Victorian Greenhouse & Stained Glass
Precedence: bulk

Hi Michele,

Congrats! You should be able to feel him/her kick soon.  When you are in 
doubt about the safety of something during pregnancy "don't do it".  Do 
some research and ask your M.D. make an informed choice.  Ask the company 
of the product in question for the MSDS sheet(material safety & data 
sheet). This can give you more info than is on the bottle.  You can also 
take this with you to the M.D. so that there is no confusion on what you 
are asking about.  You can also request info from OSHA (Occupational 
Safety & Health Administration). If you happen to live in a large area
a perinatologist is an excellent resource to get answers.    April
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From owner-glass Sat Oct  5 18:07:32 1996
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X-Path: mars.superlink.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@mars.superlink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: crashes
Date: Sat, 05 Oct 1996 21:02:40 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct5.17240.0>
References: <<1996Oct5.84818.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Lew Waldeck wrote:
> 
> M. Savad wrote:
> >
> > does anyone here use netscape 3.0? lately i've been having crashes from
> > certain mailings from this group. the address of michu-g@lodz.pdi.net
> > seems to be one of the one that's doing it most. there using Smail, but
> > others are also using Smail, so i'm not sure whats going on. the only
> > way i've been able to fix it, is to edit the file directly.
> >
> > ---Mike Savad
> >
> > --
> > Mike's Stained Glass
> > http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> Yes, I've had the same problems and thought iot was my system or perhaps
> my net provider.  I don't know what it is cause I can't find a way to
> see the messages other than reading the inbox files directly. Nothing
> seems wrong, but then I don't know what the files are supposed to look
> like.
> 
> Lew Waldeck
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

yeah thats the main reason i decided to clog up this group. i just want
this little problem fixed.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
----
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From owner-glass Sat Oct  5 18:11:15 1996
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@mars.superlink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Crashes
Date: Sat, 05 Oct 1996 21:05:06 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct5.1756.0>
References: <<1996Oct5.92723.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

maruca@netaxs.com wrote:
> 
> Dear Mike,
> 
> I have reproduced below for the sake of those just entering this
> discussion. Readers who are familiar with the crashes should skip the
> quoted material.
> 
> You are incorrect in stating that Greg "crashes everyone." Unix with Pine
> is the internet cross I bear, yet it has no problems at all with his
> posts. So please, be a little less universal in your assertions. Not
> everyone has a problem simply because you do.
> 
> Do you suppose that the real problem is that Netscape is xenophobic and
> unable to read anything but ASCII? I know Pine gives me a notice that some
> ISO characters maybe displayed incorrectly, but at least it toddles along,
> throwing something on the screen.
> 
> Mary
> 
> On Sat, 5 Oct 1996, M. Savad wrote:
> 
> >
> > yeah i know, now i know it's not glass related, but i don't want to
> > remove my self from the list. ok this part of the message is for the
> > e-mail address i posted earlier, for greg, try posting a few messages
> > with something else. it's just weird netscape crashes on only your
> > messages, i just delated yours from the inbox and from the mail cache,
> > and everything works fine now. the strange part is other people are also
> > using Smail and it's working just fine, the only difference is that
> > yours has =?iso-8859 etc before your name, and that seems to be crashing
> > everything. what it could be is either a bug on your side, or where you
> > put your name in it's says that iso thing. could you check on that, or
> > try to re-install it..thanks... it's jsut that it's crashing everyone.
> > and for all we know maybe you have a virus on your system that dissolved
> > a part of your mailer.
> >
> > ---Mike Savad
> >
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

when i said "everyone" i was referring to everyone who posted they were
having a problem too. but it seems to be a strange bug to crash netscape
over a date.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
----
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From owner-glass Sat Oct  5 18:18:34 1996
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@mars.superlink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: crashes
Date: Sat, 05 Oct 1996 21:13:35 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct5.171335.0>
References: <<199610052016.VAA20070@linux.nildram.co.uk>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Toby wrote:
> 
> Crashes due to Netscape 3? Originating in Europe?
> Hi Mike,
> I am using Netscape 2, so hope it's not me...
> Elisabeth 'n Toby
> ----
> As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
> North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
> http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm
> ----
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

that's ok it seems to be that one person greg. if your reading this
greg, change your date back to 1996, and post again, i want to find out
if thats the whole problem, so we can stop this crash topic.

---Mike Savad

-- 
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http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
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From owner-glass Sat Oct  5 18:23:06 1996
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@mars.superlink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Infinite loop?
Date: Sat, 05 Oct 1996 21:18:10 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct5.171810.0>
References: <<1996Oct5.232939.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Albert Lewis [IGGA] wrote:
> 
> Mike,
> 
> I sympathize with your mail/crashing problem ... could you tell me if there's a
> way (I may have asked this before) for you (and others?) to respond to messages
> on the group without repeating the message you're replying to?
> 
> Oftentimes, the previous message also contains *your previous ... and your
> previous contains *their previous, sort of like an infinite Russian doll.  I
> find myself hitting the spacebar again and again, hoping to eventually see your
> short message after pages and pages of previous messages.
> 
> Don't get me wrong ... I'm not angry, just hoping for a cleaner, leaner thread.
> <s>
> 
> Albert
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

in the option panel there is an auto quote feature, that does that
repeat thing. i personally like having it on, sometimes people write to
me with an answer and i don't know what the question was, so i write
back asking what the question was, and the other person does'nt
remember. thats why i quote things, so people have a refrence to what we
were talking about. if it's too long i just edit it down a bit. except
that can be annoying too. but....oh well....


---Mike Savad


-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
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From owner-glass Sat Oct  5 18:56:24 1996
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X-Path: CompuServe.COM!75054.2542
From: Monona Rossol <75054.2542@CompuServe.COM>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Toxic fumes
Date: 05 Oct 96 21:54:26 EDT
Message-ID: <1996Oct6.15426.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


Michele wrote,

> I am 4 months pregnant and was told the lead-free solder I was usiing was 
> ok. Now, I'm beginning to wonder and am also questioning the fumes from 
> anything else, like flux, etc. And no, I won't get near came until  the 
> baby is no longer nursing. Any comments? Michele ----

Good thinking.  There is so much we don't know about chemical exposure and 
the fetus that it is always good to err on the side of caution.

If the flux is a fluoride, we know that this element crosses the placental 
barrier and excess amounts can cause bone and tooth defects.  The 
composition of the solder is also important.  If it contains antimony, this 
metal is known to have reproductive effects and to be very toxic.   In any 
case, we should supplement our minerals by eating a good diet rather 
than inhaling them as flux fumes.

Staying away from came is also a good idea.  For a hundred years we 
assumed that getting lead oxide on the skin from touching lead was not a 
problem.  Then in 1991, a study financed by the Australian Government showed 
that lead dust, lead oxide, and lead nitrate skin absorb readily.  


Once lead is in the body--from skin absorption, ingestion or inhalation--the 
body can't tell the difference between the lead and calcium.  As a result, we 
deposit lead in our bones.  During pregnancy a woman mobilizes this stored 
lead and it can redeposit in the baby.  To prevent this, it is important to 
keep calcium intake up so the baby will take up far more calcium than lead.


Careful stained glass workers can expect to deliver perfectly normal babies. 
Lead at the low levels found in most stained glass workers are not likely to 
cause birth defects or obvious problems.  What lead does at low levels is to 
reduce mental acuity.  The I.Q.s of young children whose blood lead is 10 
micrograms per deciliter have been shown to be lowered by lead.  Since the 
fetus is even more susceptible, we assume that this effect occurs at even 
lower levels in the fetus.


Congratulations on your pregnancy and my compliments on the care you are 
taking to give your baby the very best start. 


Monona Rossol, industrial hygienist
Arts, Crafts and Theater Safety  
Board IGGA  
181 Thompson St., #23
New York, NY 10012-2586

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From owner-glass Sat Oct  5 20:04:20 1996
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X-Path: intrastar.net!ssuter
From: Shirley Suter <ssuter@intrastar.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Re: PlastiCame
Date: Sat, 05 Oct 1996 21:53:58 -0500
Message-ID: <1996Oct5.165358.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Suter's Stained Glass - (409) 687-3841
Precedence: bulk

Elisabeth 'n Toby wrote:
I know I sounded sceptical. That doesn't stop me from waiting to hear
with great interest how you got on with your project.

Hi Elisabeth, Bow-wow Toby!

Oh please sound skeptical!!!!!  I HATE PLASTIC!!!!!  Quite frankly, I
drink my wine from a wide-mouth canning jar (quart size, 100% glass)!!!
The posting referring to the Barbie and Ken Dreamhouse was a joke that
was evidently lost to those of you "beyond the great pond".

Barbie and Ken are "horribly American" plastic dolls that have a pukey
pink "Dreamhouse"....the entire line of products is enough to make a
maggot gag!  Evidently, this is one of the few "American Ass Warts" that
happily has not made it to your neck of the woods.  Consider yourself
lucky in this respect.

I too, am a traditionalist (when it comes to stained glass, but quite
rebellous in other areas) and have already posted a sign in my studio
stating that I will not work with plastic and will not repair any
plastic-containing panels.  I am afraid that the plasticame crap will be
on our studio doorsteps in a few years with customers demanding them to
be rebuilt in traditional lead came.  I, for one, am not looking forward
to seeing the faces of these customers when I quote the prices it will
take to turn "these sows ears" into works of art.

I would like to take this opportunity to thank you for your postings. 
Frankly, I look forward to them.  You seem to know your business and
your own mind, and I always enjoy your knowledge, wisdom and wit. 
Please keep it flowing in this direction! :)

Let us know if you are able to visit our young country.  I'd damned near
pay money for the opportunity to meet you.

Sipping from my quart jar in your honor!
Shirley Suter
Grapeland, Tx.

P.S.  Pitts, Hieroglyphics, Grey Dog, Chester (my cats) and Dildo (my
armadillo) send their best to Toby!!!  :)
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From owner-glass Sat Oct  5 21:33:55 1996
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X-Path: c031.aone.net.au!Gordon.Newell
From: Gordon.Newell@c031.aone.net.au
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: RE:  Crashes (Not Glass Related)
Date: Sat, 05 Oct 96 15:02:46 +1100
Message-ID: <199610060431.OAA17541@mail.mel.aone.net.au>
References: <<1996Oct4.165235.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

In <1996Oct4.165235.0>, on 10/04/96 at 09:52 PM,
   Shirley Suter <ssuter@intrastar.net> said:

>NOT GLASS RELATED!

>Hi there Crashed Mail Folks!!!

>If you are using Netscape 3.0 (I'm using it with no problems, knock on
>wood), there are several other options to consider.

>For you Windows 95 people, you can use Explorer available for downloading
>at  http://www.microsoft.com/ie/ 

>For the users of Windows 3.1, you can use Eudora available for
>downloading at  http://www.eudora.com

And for those that use a REAL operating system, OS/2 includes WebExplorer
. . . 

Sorry, I couldn't help myself :)

~'-._.-'~'-._.-'~'-._.-'~'-._.-'~'-._.-'~'-._.-'~'-._.-'~'-._.-'~'-._.-'~'-._.-'-._.-'~
Gordon Newell, Chalcot Micro Systems
Telephone: +61 3 9708 0134, Fax: +61 3 9222 1124, Mobile: 041 111 6636 
OS/2 is D.E.A.D (Definitely Efficient And Durable)                               
 ~'-._.-'~'-._.-'~'-._.-'~'-._.-'~'-._.-'~'-._.-'~'-._.-'~'-._.-'~'-._.-'~'-._.-'-._.-'~

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From owner-glass Sat Oct  5 22:24:26 1996
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X-Path: tpgi.com.au!llutz
From: llutz <llutz@tpgi.com.au>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Infinite loop?
Date: Sun, 06 Oct 1996 15:17:06 +1100
Message-ID: <1996Oct7.2176.0>
References: <<1996Oct5.232939.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Albert Lewis [IGGA] wrote:
> 
> Mike,
> 
> I sympathize with your mail/crashing problem ... could you tell me if there's a
> way (I may have asked this before) for you (and others?) to respond to messages
Yes- just leave enough of the message to know what it is about- then cut 
the rest out and start typing- at least it works on Netscape 3
Larry from minore


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From owner-glass Sun Oct  6 09:12:58 1996
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X-Path: ix.netcom.com!izzy3
From: izzy3@ix.netcom.com (Michael Smoucha )
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Infinite loop?
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 1996 09:12:33 -0700
Message-ID: <199610061612.JAA14244@dfw-ix9.ix.netcom.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

You wrote: 
>
>Albert Lewis [IGGA] wrote:
>> 
>> Mike,
>> 
>> I sympathize with your mail/crashing problem ... could you tell me 
if there's a
>> way (I may have asked this before) for you (and others?) to respond 
to messages
>> on the group without repeating the message you're replying to?
>> 
>> O
>> Don't get me wrong ... I'm not angry, just hoping for a cleaner, 
leaner thread.
>> <s>

>
>in the option panel there is an auto quote feature, that does that
>repeat thing. i personally like having it on, sometimes people write 
to
 if it's too long i just edit it down a bit. except
>that can be annoying too. but....oh well....
>
>
>-
At the very least edit down the extranious info such as all the 
signature text. I think leaving the salient part of the question is 
enough. 
ms

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From owner-glass Sun Oct  6 09:37:18 1996
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From: April Paine <vgplugs@primeline.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Glasseye exporting 
Date: Sun, 06 Oct 1996 12:41:17 -0700
Message-ID: <1996Oct6.54117.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Victorian Greenhouse & Stained Glass
Precedence: bulk

April Paine wrote: Will you be adding export features?
  
> Dragonfly Software wrote: you can copy your design onto the Windows
> Clipboard, and then paste .  The product you see today will be quite
> another thing in a few months!
> >
> > -Michael Wilk
> >  wilk@dfly.com

Upgrades available in future.
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From owner-glass Sun Oct  6 10:06:27 1996
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From: April Paine <vgplugs@primeline.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Waterwheel 
Date: Sun, 06 Oct 1996 13:09:50 -0700
Message-ID: <1996Oct6.6950.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Victorian Greenhouse & Stained Glass
Precedence: bulk

Hi all,

I am looking for any information on stained glass waterwheels. I'm 
working on a project now for a garden (about 5 feet).  I need support 
information on the skeleton.   Has anyone seen this done before? 
Any large 3-D info would be helpful (3 feet or larger).     April
----
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From owner-glass Sun Oct  6 10:16:48 1996
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@mars.superlink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Waterwheel
Date: Sun, 06 Oct 1996 13:10:42 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct6.91042.0>
References: <<1996Oct6.6950.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

April Paine wrote:
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I am looking for any information on stained glass waterwheels. I'm
> working on a project now for a garden (about 5 feet).  I need support
> information on the skeleton.   Has anyone seen this done before?
> Any large 3-D info would be helpful (3 feet or larger).     April
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

the only thing i can think of right now is to either make or buy a
wooden wheel of the size you want and cover it in glass, just make sure
the glass is securly attached to the wood.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
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From owner-glass Sun Oct  6 10:28:13 1996
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From: "Albert Lewis [IGGA]" <70544.3642@CompuServe.COM>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Where's SpectrumGlass?
Date: 06 Oct 96 13:26:20 EDT
Message-ID: <1996Oct6.172620.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


I tried to take a look at http://www.SpectrumGlass.com (spelled
case-sensitively, that way, as well as all lower case) and got a "No DNS Server
for that address" message.

Any ideas?

Albert

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From owner-glass Sun Oct  6 12:25:04 1996
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@mars.superlink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Where's SpectrumGlass?
Date: Sun, 06 Oct 1996 15:18:46 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct6.111846.0>
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Albert Lewis [IGGA] wrote:
> 
> I tried to take a look at http://www.SpectrumGlass.com (spelled
> case-sensitively, that way, as well as all lower case) and got a "No DNS Server
> for that address" message.
> 
> Any ideas?
> 
> Albert
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glas

just tried it right now, worked fine for me.

---Mike Savad


-- 
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http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
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From owner-glass Sun Oct  6 13:12:11 1996
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From: Delphi Stained Glass <delphigl@voyager.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Where's SpectrumGlass?
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 1996 16:10:52 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <199610062010.QAA10202@vixa.voyager.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Albert,

>I tried to take a look at http://www.SpectrumGlass.com (spelled
>case-sensitively, that way, as well as all lower case) and got a "No DNS Server
>for that address" message.

I noticed several comments similar to yours in rec.crafts.glass and Jim
Matthews of Spectrum followed up with:

>My tech support says your problem is a DNS server problem on your end, 
>and he wants to know if it is still happening.  Try to email me, or 
>answer here.  Also, try to get around the problem by using the IP 
>address: 206.63.62.43 instead of the URL http://www.SpectrumGlass.com.
>
>PS:  some PC users using Netscape v1.2 are having difficulty, no 
>accessing the site, but using the imagemap on the home page.  Upgrade!  
>Download for free via Netscape home page.

If you are still having difficulties using this address, Spectrum's address
is artglass@SpectrumGlass.com

Hope this info is helpful.

Stephanie

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From owner-glass Sun Oct  6 13:50:53 1996
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From: "=?Windows-1250?Q?Grzegorz_Gier=B3owski?=" <michu-g@lodz.pdi.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: crashes
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 1996 22:48:10 +0100
Message-ID: <199610062049.VAA23051@gryzmak.lodz.pdi.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


O.K. Changed my date .
Does it help?
Greg
----------
> From: M. Savad <morn@mars.superlink.net>
> To: glass@bungi.com
> Subject: Re: crashes
> Date: 6 pa=9Fdziernika 1996 02:13
>=20
> Toby wrote:
> >=20
> > Crashes due to Netscape 3? Originating in Europe?
> > Hi Mike,
> > I am using Netscape 2, so hope it's not me...
> > Elisabeth 'n Toby
> > ----
> > As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
> > North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
> > http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm
> > ----
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>=20
> that's ok it seems to be that one person greg. if your reading this
> greg, change your date back to 1996, and post again, i want to find =
out
> if thats the whole problem, so we can stop this crash topic.
>=20
> ---Mike Savad
>=20
> --=20
> Mike's Stained Glass
> http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
----
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From owner-glass Sun Oct  6 14:29:26 1996
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@mars.superlink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: crashes
Date: Sun, 06 Oct 1996 17:23:32 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct6.132332.0>
References: <<199610062049.VAA23051@gryzmak.lodz.pdi.net>>
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=?Windows-1250?Q?Grzegorz_Gier=B3owski?= wrote:
> 
> O.K. Changed my date .
> Does it help?
> Greg
> ----------
> > From: M. Savad <morn@mars.superlink.net>
> > To: glass@bungi.com
> > Subject: Re: crashes
> > Date: 6 pa=9Fdziernika 1996 02:13
> >=20
> > Toby wrote:
> > >=20
> > > Crashes due to Netscape 3? Originating in Europe?
> > > Hi Mike,
> > > I am using Netscape 2, so hope it's not me...
> > > Elisabeth 'n Toby
> > > ----
> > > As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
> > > North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
> > > http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm
> > > ----
> > > ----
> > > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> >=20
> > that's ok it seems to be that one person greg. if your reading this
> > greg, change your date back to 1996, and post again, i want to find =
> out
> > if thats the whole problem, so we can stop this crash topic.
> >=20
> > ---Mike Savad
> >=20
> > --=20
> > Mike's Stained Glass
> > http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

yeah i got it without it crashing, changing the date helped. your from:
is still a little messy looking. but other than that, that silly little
date bug, was the problem.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
----
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From owner-glass Sun Oct  6 15:36:11 1996
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From: "J. Hendershott" <jhendershott@macnet.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: crashes
Date: Sun, 06 Oct 1996 15:38:54 -0700
Message-ID: <1996Oct6.83854.0>
References: <<199610062049.VAA23051@gryzmak.lodz.pdi.net>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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> O.K. Changed my date .
> Does it help?
> Greg

Wow Greg, received your message with no problem. That seems to have
fixed the problem on my end.  Thanks for your efforts. Now I REALLY want
to here from you! :-)

Janie
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From owner-glass Sun Oct  6 16:56:18 1996
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From: "Albert Lewis [IGGA]" <70544.3642@CompuServe.COM>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: Where's SpectrumGlas
Date: 06 Oct 96 19:53:45 EDT
Message-ID: <1996Oct6.235345.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


   >I noticed several comments similar to yours in rec.crafts.glass and Jim
   >Matthews of Spectrum followed up with:

Well, *my problem turned out to be fingers much too speedy ... I entered the url
without the www <blush>  What *was I thinking?

Nice site, though, isn't it?  I'm looking forward to their photos of all of
their glass.  (I just had to see what they'd done with "clear" glass ... very,
very nice work.)

albert

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From owner-glass Sun Oct  6 17:11:08 1996
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From: Shirley Suter <ssuter@intrastar.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re:  Where's SpectrumGlas
Date: Sun, 06 Oct 1996 19:00:55 -0500
Message-ID: <1996Oct6.14055.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Suter's Stained Glass - (409) 687-3841
Precedence: bulk

Hey Albert and all!!!

I too, was impressed with the job that Spectrum Glass did on their web
page.  This will be a wonderful tool for my out-of-town and -state
customers to be more involved in the selection of glass for their
projects.

I just hope the rest of the glass manufacturers will follow suit!!! 
This could eliminate my sending glass samples to those "most picky"
customers who enjoy being VERY involved with the creation of their
stained glass commissions. 

Also, the timing couldn't be better.  My wholesaler is running Spectrum
on sale this month.....Definite inspiration to rush out and purchase
more glass! 

THANK YOU SPECTRUM!!!!!

Shirley Suter
Grapeland, Tx.
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From owner-glass Sun Oct  6 17:50:50 1996
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X-Path: waterw.com!artglass
From: artglass@waterw.com (pj friend)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re:  Where's SpectrumGlas
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 1996 20:49:35 -0400
Message-ID: <9610070049.AA29892@water.waterw.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

>you wrote:Hey Albert and all!!!
>
>I too, was impressed with the job that Spectrum Glass did on their web
>page.  This will be a wonderful tool for my out-of-town and -state
>customers to be more involved in the selection of glass for their
>projects.>>
>I just wish I could view it.........................
I am having a major problem getting to view this site.
Since Albert forgot the www. i double check everything.  I have the URL
right but 
when it goes to load it freezes up my system.  Funny no other site does this.
I am using Netscape 3.0.  Any suggestions???

my best,
pj
frozin in time

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From owner-glass Sun Oct  6 19:00:38 1996
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From: Kay Allen <fullspec@scv.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re:  Where's SpectrumGlas
Date: Sun, 06 Oct 1996 18:58:19 -0700
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From owner-glass Sun Oct  6 20:03:43 1996
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X-Path: InterAccess.com!David
From: "David J. Loundy" <David@InterAccess.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Where's SpectrumGlas
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 1996 20:39:53 -0500
Message-ID: <v03007805ae7e0eb1a149@[204.149.98.225]>
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Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

At 7:53 PM -0400 10/6/96, you wrote:


>   >I noticed several comments similar to yours in rec.crafts.glass and Jim
>   >Matthews of Spectrum followed up with:
>
>Well, *my problem turned out to be fingers much too speedy ... I entered
>the url
>without the www <blush>  What *was I thinking?
>
>Nice site, though, isn't it?  I'm looking forward to their photos of all of
>their glass.  (I just had to see what they'd done with "clear" glass ... very,
>very nice work.)

As an aside, one neat thing about fairly recent versions of netscape, is
that you can leave out the "http://www" and the ".com" and Netscape will
add it for you.  For instance, if you type "Loundy" into the location box,
it'll pull up my web page.  Same thing for "Spectrumglass" or "yahoo" or
"Apple" and the like.

--David--


_______________________________________________________________________
David J. Loundy              | E-Mail: David@Loundy.com
                             | WWW: http://www.Loundy.com/
"Don't forget:Apple and Honda| Phone: (847) 926-9744
 have the same size market   | Listserv (for my Technology Law column):
 share in their respective   |  Send a message reading "subscribe"
 businesses"  --G. Kawasaki  |  to Loundy-request@netural.com
_______________________________________________________________________


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From owner-glass Sun Oct  6 20:03:47 1996
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From: "David J. Loundy" <David@InterAccess.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Coke and Paint: was: Indian chief design (fwd)
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 1996 21:10:50 -0500
Message-ID: <v03007806ae7e100cf2e8@[204.149.98.225]>
References: <<199610021827.OAA25930@vixa.voyager.net>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Sorry about the delay in responding...

Mandatory disclaimer to make my liability insurance provider happy:
The following is not legal advice, see a lawyer to discuss your particular
situation, the following does not create any attorney/client relationship,
your milage may vary, contents may have settled during shipping.

At 2:27 PM -0400 10/2/96, Stephanie Braman wrote:

>>>>(So, here's a hypothetical...a client asks you to make Mickey Mouse
>>>>suncatcher.  Will pay, say, $40.  Do you even try to get permission
>>>>from Disney?)
>>>
>>>In instances like this, you could always sell a copy of the book or pattern
>>>along with it.  Not necessarily practical, but it does fall within the
>>>letter of the copyright law.
>>
>>I'm not clear about what you are saying when you say sell a copy of the
>book >or pattern with the object. How does this work?
>
>I'm saying to sell an original of the pattern or book along with the
>finished item.  Very much similar to having a customer select a pattern and
>purchasing it, and then asking to make up this design for them.  The end
>result is that only one stained glass piece has been made up for every
>pattern purchased.  I'm not suggesting to split up any of the pattern books
>or portfolios and parceling them out, but to sell the entire publication
>intact.

The argument here is that by selling a copy of the book along with the
piece, there is no displaced sale of the licensed book-- the copyright
holder is therefore not loosing a sale.  This would work to support one of
the "fair use" factors of the U.S. copyright law.

As to the sale of the book along with the suncatcher, it does not clearly
fall within the letter of the law-- as I mentioned in my last post on the
topic, the law is not all that clear.

If the book is initially an infringement (a possibility) than anything made
from the book would probably also be an infringement, regardless of whether
you also sold a copy of the (infringing) book along with the glass.

If the book is appropriately authorized, then we are back to the issue of
implied licenses-- presumably by selling a pattern book, you are impliedly
being given permission to use the pattern book for the purpose for which it
was intended, making the glass pieces for which there are patterns in the
book.  _If_ the implied license is that you can only make one piece from
each pattern, then yes, transferring the book makes sense.  The next
question is, how much further can you take this-- is there some type of
limitation on whether you can make pieces to sell, or only for personal
consumption?  Who knows!  But, if the permission is implied to make the
piece to sell, and there is no implied "one pattern, ane piece" limitation,
then transferring a copy of the book as well would be irrelevant.

Yep, lots of "ifs."

>In the long run, it would probably be more inexpensive to contact the owner
>of the copyright directly and coming to an agreement if you desire to mass
>produce any of the designs.

If the alternative is buying a copy of the book each time-- probably.

>>And if you've designed your own Mickey...just to carry this along?
>>(I suspect that if you tried to get permission, you'd NEVER hear
>>back, but if you did, the answer's be "NO")
>
>If your original design of Mickey in anyway resembles the Disney's
>copyrighted design, you will still need to "pay" for using their design.  I
>heard of a horror story where someone was selling finished items which were
>recognizable as Disney designs, and by law the Disney representative was
>able to confiscate ALL of the offending items and also sued this individual.

Disney is particularly litigious.  Part of the problem is not so much the
copyright, but the trademark in the designs.  If you do not police your
trademarks, you can lose your trademarks.  Instead of letting this happen,
they just make photocopies of their cease and desist letters on their Xerox
brand photocopiers, while blotting the tears from their eyes with Kleenex
brand tissues while soothing their tension headaches with a Bayer aspirin.

>I don't think that the answer from Disney would be no, but the royalty price
>would be a very high one and wouldn't be able to justify making only a
>couple of this particular piece.

You never know until you ask.

>I would like to say in closing that I'm not an expert on copyright laws, but
>this is a frequent question and I'm learning a little at a time.  If I am in
>anyway incorrect, *please* let me know.

I am trying to be!  ;-)  I hope this answer helps a bit-- it is really a
fairly complex subject.  As my copyright professor in law school put it,
"Copyright laws are the one set of laws people violate on a regular basis
without even knowing it."

--David--


_______________________________________________________________________
David J. Loundy              | E-Mail: David@Loundy.com
                             | WWW: http://www.Loundy.com/
"Don't forget:Apple and Honda| Phone: (847) 926-9744
 have the same size market   | Listserv (for my Technology Law column):
 share in their respective   |  Send a message reading "subscribe"
 businesses"  --G. Kawasaki  |  to Loundy-request@netural.com
_______________________________________________________________________


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From owner-glass Sun Oct  6 22:22:51 1996
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From: leestat <leestat@gte.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: crashes
Date: Mon, 07 Oct 1996 01:19:29 -0700
Message-ID: <1996Oct6.181929.0>
References: <<199610062049.VAA23051@gryzmak.lodz.pdi.net>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Lee Boe
Precedence: bulk

=?Windows-1250?Q?Grzegorz_Gier=B3owski?= wrote:
> 
> O.K. Changed my date .
> Does it help?
> Greg

That seems to have fixed it, wonder what all the computers and programs
are going to do on Jan 2, 2000???????????/

By the way, I don't have any sample sets, does anyone know of a
"Turqouise" colored opal or whispy???
Let me know name of maker and # if you have it.  Thanks

Lee Boe
Rain-Boe's Creations
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From owner-glass Mon Oct  7 02:59:51 1996
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From: mhooper@vladmire.voiceisp.net (Mark Hooper)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re:  Where's SpectrumGlas
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 05:55:15 -0400
Message-ID: <v01540b00ae7e4c8cb694@[206.31.230.125]>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

At 8:49 PM 10/6/96, pj friend wrote:
>>you wrote:Hey Albert and all!!!
>>
>>I too, was impressed with the job that Spectrum Glass did on their web
>>page.  This will be a wonderful tool for my out-of-town and -state
>>customers to be more involved in the selection of glass for their
>>projects.>>
>>I just wish I could view it.........................
>I am having a major problem getting to view this site.
>Since Albert forgot the www. i double check everything.  I have the URL
>right but
>when it goes to load it freezes up my system.  Funny no other site does this.
>I am using Netscape 3.0.  Any suggestions???
>
>my best,
>pj
>frozin in time

Gee I'm glad to hear that someone else is having the same problem as
I...Starting to think it was a Mac problem!

Anyone have ANY ideas on this?

                                    _____   O o
                                   [_/-\_] o
                                     (0)======
                              --ooO--------Ooo-- Mark


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From owner-glass Mon Oct  7 03:31:50 1996
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	id m0vACxf-00016Ka; Mon, 7 Oct 96 03:30 PDT
X-Path: nethawk.com!1091
From: 1091@nethawk.com (Sue Eiszler)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re:  Where's SpectrumGlas
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 06:35:48 -0500
Message-ID: <v01530500ae7e9b648c45@[206.97.200.42]>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

>
>Gee I'm glad to hear that someone else is having the same problem as
>I...Starting to think it was a Mac problem!
>
>Anyone have ANY ideas on this?

I'm using a Mac and had no problems.

Sue
1091@nethawk.com






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From owner-glass Mon Oct  7 04:10:48 1996
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X-Path: CompuServe.COM!70544.3642
From: "Albert Lewis [IGGA]" <70544.3642@CompuServe.COM>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Copyright
Date: 07 Oct 96 07:08:15 EDT
Message-ID: <1996Oct7.11815.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


   >Disney is particularly litigious.  Part of the problem is not so much the
   >copyright, but the trademark in the designs.  If you do not police your
   >trademarks, you can lose your trademarks.

This may be an old wives' tale (sorry, old wives), but as I understand it,
Kleenex did *not take Disney's stance and now you can refer to a tissue as a
"klennex" with impunity.

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From owner-glass Mon Oct  7 04:42:53 1996
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	id m0vAE4V-0000eHa; Mon, 7 Oct 96 04:42 PDT
X-Path: bright.net!joyce
From: Joyce Moran <joyce@bright.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Bevels-Fumes
Date: Mon, 07 Oct 1996 07:39:45 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct7.33945.0>
References: <<199610031756.NAA01018@vixa.voyager.net>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Delphi Stained Glass wrote:
> 
> April,
> 
> >I am still looking for software. We have ordered the Glasseye from
> >Dragonfly.  I decided Monday since we haven't gotten good reviews on the
> >others and my Coreldraw 4 has a few bugs that it was worth having it
> >consolidated in one program.
> 
> Have you received this software yet?  I have had mine for 3 weeks now and
> for the most part have been very satisfied with results from this program.
> After installation, I completed a small panel (less than 12" in diameter) in
> less than 10 minutes of use and had a great time to boot!  The only thing
> that I haven't been completely satisfied with is the fact the files are
> saved as ".eye" and I really would rather have been able to save them as
> ".tif" or ".gif" and hopefully been able to use them with other programs.
> 
> Today, I have been playing with the demo version of the new software from
> American Bevel.  It's pretty slick.  I really like the fact that there are
> so many base bevel shapes available to create with.  This version only
> contained 8 clusters, but someone here mentioned to me today that the most
> recent "registered" version contains over 150 clusters.  Very impressed with
> the possibility of "coloring" the finished design and that this program
> recognizes ".gif", ".tif", ".jpg" formats.  Since Spectrum Glass now has an
> established, and very well put together site now
> (http://www.SpectrumGlass.com) and shows actual representations of some of
> their glass, maybe they will consider making these files available to "plug"
> into the the color palette for this program.  I realize that it's only one
> manufacturer, but it would be a beginning.....
> 


Stephanie,

That was the whole idea why I was so excited after the Nashville Show, 
Richard said that all of the manufacturers had agreed to provide samples 
 of their glass to plug into this program.  Looks like Spectrum is the 
only one making any progress toward that goal.  I will wait until the 
color chips are included with the program, that was the main attraction 
for me.  Right now I have other means of computer design that do use 
.jpg, pcx, and other formats.


Garden of Glass
Joyce Moran
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From owner-glass Mon Oct  7 05:22:54 1996
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	id m0vAEgS-0000pUa; Mon, 7 Oct 96 05:21 PDT
X-Path: bright.net!joyce
From: Joyce Moran <joyce@bright.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: doberman
Date: Mon, 07 Oct 1996 08:19:00 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct7.4190.0>
References: <<1.5.4.32.19961004163213.00677c18@POP3.newtech.net>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

FEFranks wrote:
> 
> Does anyone know where I can find a pattern of a doberman head. I've seen
> other dogs but have been unable to find one of a doberman. Thanks


I have a catalog that lists a pattern for a doberman from Animal Images 
from Dick Keane Studios, this was in a Hudson Stained Glass catalog from 
several years ago, and you would have to contact them to see if it is 
still available....product number at that time was 935 0002...800# is 
800-431-2964

Joyce Moran
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From owner-glass Mon Oct  7 05:43:18 1996
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X-Path: UCONNVM.UCONN.EDU!HCLADM02
From:         mail <HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu>
To:           glass@bungi.com
Subject:      Re:  Where's SpectrumGlas
Date:         Mon, 07 Oct 96 08:38:51 EDT
Message-ID:   <961007.084034.EDT.HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu>
References: <<v01540b00ae7e4c8cb694@[206.31.230.125]>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I found the Spectrum pages to be extememly slow.  Who can wait five
minutes to see a picture of a sheet of glass?  Could have been the
traffic, the time of day...What I saw looked good, but didn't see enough.
I'll try again when I have time.

--
Dorothy Kalahan, Interlibrary Loan  (860) 679-2940  FAX (860) 679-4046
UCONN Health Center Library, POB 4003, Farmington CT 06034-4003
HCLADM02@UConnVM.uconn.edu
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From owner-glass Mon Oct  7 06:00:50 1996
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	id m0vAFH2-00016Ya; Mon, 7 Oct 96 05:59 PDT
X-Path: sol.racsa.co.cr!rlaval
From: Richard LaVal <rlaval@sol.racsa.co.cr>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: eudora
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 06:55:51 -0600
Message-ID: <1.5.4.16.19961006200511.225714f4@sol.racsa.co.cr>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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Hi;
        I highly reccomend Eudora.... you can download Eudora Light off the
net.  It is much nicer than netscape for email!!!  My two cents worth.  Meg

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From owner-glass Mon Oct  7 07:34:58 1996
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X-Path: worldnet.att.net!summit-stained-glass
From: mike  peck <summit-stained-glass@worldnet.att.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: crashes
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 14:33:59 +0000
Message-ID: <1996Oct7.143359.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

At 08:19 AM 10/7/96 +0000, you wrote:
>=?Windows-1250?Q?Grzegorz_Gier=B3owski?= wrote:
>> 
>> O.K. Changed my date .
>> Does it help?
>> Greg
>
>That seems to have fixed it, wonder what all the computers and programs
>are going to do on Jan 2, 2000???????????/
>
>By the way, I don't have any sample sets, does anyone know of a
>"Turqouise" colored opal or whispy???
>Let me know name of maker and # if you have it.  Thanks
>
>Lee Boe
>Rain-Boe's Creations
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

the best turquoise i know of is bullseye 0116, nice catspaw texture. also
wissmach makes a 250-D that is a tourquois/white wisspy.

good luck

mike peck
summit stained glass 

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From owner-glass Mon Oct  7 08:24:02 1996
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	id m0vAHWW-0000lSa; Mon, 7 Oct 96 08:23 PDT
X-Path: pilot.msu.edu!wrightk5
From: Kristen Wright <wrightk5@pilot.msu.edu>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Where's SpectrumGlass?
Date: Mon, 07 Oct 1996 11:26:05 -0700
Message-ID: <1996Oct7.4265.0>
References: <<1996Oct6.172620.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Albert Lewis [IGGA] wrote:
> 
> I tried to take a look at http://www.SpectrumGlass.com 

try http://www.spectrumglass.com/ for  Spectrum Glass 

two other glass manufacturers that I have found are

Wissmach glass "http://www.artglassworld.com/supply/wissmach/home.html" 
and Kokomo Opalescent Glass  at  "http://www.kog.com/"
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From owner-glass Mon Oct  7 08:28:15 1996
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From: Kristen Wright <wrightk5@pilot.msu.edu>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Where's SpectrumGlass?
Date: Mon, 07 Oct 1996 11:29:51 -0700
Message-ID: <1996Oct7.42951.0>
References: <<199610062010.QAA10202@vixa.voyager.net>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

"No DNS Server" errors sometimes mean that too many people are on the 
server. All you need to do is keep trying until you are able to get in.

Kristen
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From owner-glass Mon Oct  7 08:51:29 1996
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From: Kristen Wright <wrightk5@pilot.msu.edu>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Where's SpectrumGlas
Date: Mon, 07 Oct 1996 11:53:30 -0700
Message-ID: <1996Oct7.45330.0>
References: <<v01540b00ae7e4c8cb694@[206.31.230.125]>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

> >>I just wish I could view it.........................
> >I am having a major problem getting to view this site.

> >when it goes to load it freezes up my system.  Funny no other site does this.

Have you cleaned your caches lately?

Spectrum has many pictures and if you don't have enough RAM, the 
churnning of your hard drive may cause the system to freezebecause the 
memory is used up.

Some suggestion are 
	1 make sure that netscape is the only  program running when you 
view sites with lots and lots of pictures.  By no other program running, 
I mean programs like Word that are always auto doing something that is 
taking up RAM space. 
	2. You may need to clean your memory cache before you use these 
sites. Remember, pictures take up more memory than normal text.
	3. If this does happen clean your cache first thing when you open 
netscape.

Finally, don't think this is only happening to you. I have used several 
computeres throughout the university and have experienced similar 
problems. It seems that no one knows how to clean up the cache.

Kristen
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From owner-glass Mon Oct  7 09:07:30 1996
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From: Kristen <wrightk5@pilot.msu.edu>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Where's SpectrumGlas
Date: Mon, 07 Oct 1996 12:08:06 -0700
Message-ID: <1996Oct7.586.0>
References: <<961007.084034.EDT.HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

mail wrote:
> 
> I found the Spectrum pages to be extememly slow.  

My personal computer is rather slow and does not have enough memory, So 
to  solve this problem I turn the option off for loading pictures. I even 
turn this option off when I use the super fast university computers.
When I want to view a picture I just click on it.

I want patience and I want it now.

Kristen
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From owner-glass Mon Oct  7 09:47:43 1996
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X-Path: ucdavis.edu!krmcdonald
From: krmcdonald@ucdavis.edu (Kathe R. McDonald)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: For Andrea
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 09:47:16 -0700 (PDT)
Message-ID: <199610071647.JAA16338@peseta.ucdavis.edu>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Andrea, don't forget to pack for "winter" when you come over. Your summer
is our winter. I always have a hard time figuring out what to wear when I
go "down under."

Kathe R. McDonald
Office of Curricular Support
"Aint no time to hate." J. Garcia 1995


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From owner-glass Mon Oct  7 13:33:26 1996
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From: RTMEMT@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Infinite loop?
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 16:27:25 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct7.122725.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi Mike,

I also agree with Albert:

>I sympathize with your mail/crashing problem ... could you tell me if
there's a
>way (I may have asked this before) for you (and others?) to respond to
messages
>on the group without repeating the message you're replying to?

I like to efficiently zip thru my messages, and am always tempted to
completely skip yours  (and some others) because you don't bother to be
succinct.  Sorry to offend...none intended....just frustrated re-reading same
messages over and over.  Thanks in advance for being considerate of the
group.

Rita
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From owner-glass Mon Oct  7 13:56:24 1996
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From: "Albert Lewis [IGGA]" <70544.3642@CompuServe.COM>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: It's not "klennex"!
Date: 07 Oct 96 16:54:40 EDT
Message-ID: <1996Oct7.205440.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


   >Kleenex did *not take Disney's stance and now you can refer to a tissue
   >as a "klennex" with impunity.

Oh, you know what I meant! <sigh>

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From owner-glass Mon Oct  7 13:57:31 1996
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From: "Albert Lewis [IGGA]" <70544.3642@CompuServe.COM>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Emptying caches quickly
Date: 07 Oct 96 16:54:43 EDT
Message-ID: <1996Oct7.205443.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


   >It seems that no one knows how to clean up the cache.

Kristen,

Since I run two versions of Netscape, CompuServe's Mosaic, AmericaOnLine's 
browser, I'd very quickly run into space problems, so I wrote a batch file 
that's run from the DOS prompt to clean up the disk in a couple of 
nanoseconds:

cd\netscape
deltree /y cache
del *.hst
md cache
cd\aol30
deltree /y cache
md cache
cd\cserve\mosaic
deltree /y cache
md cache
cd\tap
del xfer.log
cd\
cls

I called it NOC.BAT (for "no caches") and put it in my PATH.  You doubtlessly 
know how to do that, but I'd be happy to tell anyone else who wants to know.

Albert

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From owner-glass Mon Oct  7 14:24:10 1996
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Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6)
	id m0vAN9K-0001ICa; Mon, 7 Oct 96 14:23 PDT
X-Path: interserv.com!ebsousa
From: ebsousa@interserv.com
To: Glass@bungi.com
Subject: Plasticame
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 14:22:56 -0700
Message-ID: <199610072122.AA28523@relay.interserv.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

 I for one am interested in learning more about plasticame, not for my own work 
but as a potentially safe way to introduce my 8 year old to Stained Glass. 
Perhaps even go to the school art class to show the kids, something I definetly 
wouldn't do with soldering.
	
	Donna S. 
	Avalon Stained Glass
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From owner-glass Mon Oct  7 15:40:16 1996
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X-Path: mars.superlink.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@mars.superlink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: crashes
Date: Mon, 07 Oct 1996 18:33:59 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct7.143359.0>
References: <<1996Oct6.181929.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

leestat wrote:
> 
> =?Windows-1250?Q?Grzegorz_Gier=B3owski?= wrote:
> >
> > O.K. Changed my date .
> > Does it help?
> > Greg
> 
> That seems to have fixed it, wonder what all the computers and programs
> are going to do on Jan 2, 2000???????????/
> 
> By the way, I don't have any sample sets, does anyone know of a
> "Turqouise" colored opal or whispy???
> Let me know name of maker and # if you have it.  Thanks
> 
> Lee Boe
> Rain-Boe's Creations
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

spectrum has a turqouise or teal whispy. you'll have to check thier site
http://www.spectrumglass.com 

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
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From owner-glass Mon Oct  7 15:52:49 1996
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@mars.superlink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Where's SpectrumGlas
Date: Mon, 07 Oct 1996 18:47:36 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct7.144736.0>
References: <<9610070049.AA29892@water.waterw.com>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

pj friend wrote:
> 
> >you wrote:Hey Albert and all!!!
> >
> >I too, was impressed with the job that Spectrum Glass did on their web
> >page.  This will be a wonderful tool for my out-of-town and -state
> >customers to be more involved in the selection of glass for their
> >projects.>>
> >I just wish I could view it.........................
> I am having a major problem getting to view this site.
> Since Albert forgot the www. i double check everything.  I have the URL
> right but
> when it goes to load it freezes up my system.  Funny no other site does this.
> I am using Netscape 3.0.  Any suggestions???
> 
> my best,
> pj
> frozin in time
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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are you using any type of plugin that interfere's with the graphics?
that's usally the first thing i check into. try also to erase the cache
in netscape, maybe there's some bad graphic in there.

---Mike Savad

-- 
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From owner-glass Mon Oct  7 16:00:30 1996
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@mars.superlink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Copyright
Date: Mon, 07 Oct 1996 18:55:21 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct7.145521.0>
References: <<1996Oct7.11815.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Albert Lewis [IGGA] wrote:
> 
>    >Disney is particularly litigious.  Part of the problem is not so much the
>    >copyright, but the trademark in the designs.  If you do not police your
>    >trademarks, you can lose your trademarks.
> 
> This may be an old wives' tale (sorry, old wives), but as I understand it,
> Kleenex did *not take Disney's stance and now you can refer to a tissue as a
> "klennex" with impunity.
> 
> ----
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maybe... but that is a common thing, it not like i would go out and say
i'm going out disney'ing or something like that when i have a good
expensive time ;). it's like calling a PC and IBM everyone knows what
your talking about, but there are alot more companies then just IBM. or
something like that.

---Mike Savad

-- 
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From owner-glass Mon Oct  7 16:10:03 1996
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@mars.superlink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Infinite loop?
Date: Mon, 07 Oct 1996 19:03:52 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct7.15352.0>
References: <<1996Oct7.122725.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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RTMEMT@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Hi Mike,
> 
> I also agree with Albert:
> 
> >I sympathize with your mail/crashing problem ... could you tell me if
> there's a
> >way (I may have asked this before) for you (and others?) to respond to
> messages
> >on the group without repeating the message you're replying to?
> 
> I like to efficiently zip thru my messages, and am always tempted to
> completely skip yours  (and some others) because you don't bother to be
> succinct.  Sorry to offend...none intended....just frustrated re-reading same
> messages over and over.  Thanks in advance for being considerate of the
> group.
> 
> Rita
> ----
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personnaly i don't care either way if you read it or not, that's up to
you, just don't re-read those parts, make the quoted parts bold, i don't
like it when people don't quote the message and i have no idea at all
what their talking about.

---Mike Savad

-- 
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From owner-glass Mon Oct  7 17:11:06 1996
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From: "Albert Lewis [IGGA]" <70544.3642@CompuServe.COM>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: Infinite loop?
Date: 07 Oct 96 20:08:14 EDT
Message-ID: <1996Oct8.0814.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


   >personnaly i don't care either way if you read it or not, that's up to
   >you, just don't re-read those parts, make the quoted parts bold, i don't
   >like it when people don't quote the message and i have no idea at all
   >what their talking about.

I guess there's not much one can say to you, Mike, given that kind of an
attitude on your part.  Ask for a little courtesy, a little thoughtfulness, and
whaddya get?  A slap inna face.  Nice.  Very nice.

That's enough for me, thank you.

Albert

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From owner-glass Mon Oct  7 18:31:03 1996
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X-Path: mail.nildram.co.uk!glass
From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: was plasticame - thanks for the "Rose"
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@mail.nildram.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1996 02:04:09 +0000
Message-ID: <199610080129.CAA03948@linux.nildram.co.uk>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Shirley (Suter) your posting to Group of 5 Oct:., 
Thanks for your "Rose".
Am sometimes worried that my comments & observations might get up 
somebody's nose.... It's never intended. 
Often kick myself and think I ought to be cutting glass in my 
solitude  instead....
Yes, the "Barbie & Ken " joke was in deed lost "in translation", 
though the "Barbie-Doll" did cross my mind. Even funnier though, was 
the mental picture of a "maggot gagging". That really made my day! 
Got the picture, loud & clear!  :-))

If any of you have visited my WEB-page recently, you may have noticed 
that at the bottom of the "Award" page is a listing of some of my 
teaching venues and more importantly "On The Drawing Board" is the 
proposed visit to CHARTRES in France next Easter.... Having a Meeting 
with the Co-Ordinating College later on this month to discuss the 
matter  in greater detail. Will report back. "Kris", my Computer 
Guru" is also searching for an appropriate more detailed NET-site for 
Chartres Cathedral to include to my "Links".

Mike (Savad), paid a visit to your site last night. Loved the cars! 
Also thought your approach to explaining the various copper-foils & 
their uses very thoughtful and comprehensive. 
Dear Hobbyists & Learners!:  Pay his site a visit!

As regards "infinite loops", must admit I agree with Albert..... Your 
quotes do tend to be v-e-r-y  long. ( My own tend perhaps to be too 
short, I am told). 

As regards visiting the "Young Country"; I am green with envy at 
Andrea's imminent departure - I am working on it!! It won't be next 
Easter, that's for sure. I will be "ruminating" on the thought for a 
while and might yet surprise you, after all....
Would I get a visa for a start!!??
 (and yes, Andrea!! HEED Kathe's advice re 
winter!!  - BUT, where, oh where are the details of YOUR 2 Aussies' UK 
programmes!! I am still waiting)

Stick to the Quart Jar Glass, Shirley!  A girl to my own heart!!
Salut!!  (A few further "Off-Group" comments I will make to you directly...)
Elisabeth 'nToby
  
----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
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From owner-glass Mon Oct  7 21:06:38 1996
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From: "H. Taylor Buckner" <taylor_buckner@sympatico.ca>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: no messages
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1996 00:05:47 -0400
Message-ID: <199610080405.AAA22480@smtp1.sympatico.ca>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

        I haven't seen any new posting to the bungi list since late last
week. Is there a problem or has everyone run dry at the same time?  Jennifer

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From owner-glass Mon Oct  7 21:47:39 1996
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X-Path: mars.ark.com!ggjcon
From: ggjcon@mars.ark.com (Gordon Conway)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: glass
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 21:47:09 -0700
Message-ID: <199610080447.VAA20620@mars.ark.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Thank you for adding me to your list, I have recieved all the information I
need for now, so could you please remove me from the stained glass list
until further notice.
                                                        Thank You
                                                        Sincerely,
                                                        Georgena Conway

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From owner-glass Tue Oct  8 01:37:50 1996
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X-Path: juno.com!roadrunner47
From: roadrunner47@juno.com (Jacque E Smith)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Indian chief design
Date: Tue, 08 Oct 1996 04:03:41 EDT
Message-ID: <1996Oct8.8341.0>
References: <<199609280559.AAA19698@westbyserver.westby.mwt.net>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Indian chief body shot ...in Southwest expressions (first book) by Gloria
Fohr
Indian chief portrait (panel) Southwest expressions book 2 by Gloria Fohr

I am sure there are a lot of others out there..might look thru the delphi
catalog at the pattern section. Roadrunner..
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From owner-glass Tue Oct  8 02:38:26 1996
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From: jroey@juno.com (Jerri M Roey)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Brass Came
Date: Mon, 07 Oct 1996 23:05:25 EDT
Message-ID: <1996Oct8.3525.0>
References: <<1996Oct6.235345.0>>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi,

	I've never worked with brass came.  Is there anything special to
know about it?  Does it tarnish like zinc?  Is there something special
you put on it after it's finished (like say, to frame a panel)?

Thanks,  Jerri
	
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From owner-glass Tue Oct  8 05:51:21 1996
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From: GlasCrafts@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: ??????????
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1996 08:50:53 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct8.45053.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

maybe... but that is a common thing, it not like i would go out and say
i'm going out disney'ing or something like that when i have a good
expensive time ;). it's like calling a PC and IBM everyone knows what
your talking about, but there are alot more companies then just IBM. or
something like that.

---Mike Savad

What ARE you talking about??????
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From owner-glass Tue Oct  8 06:11:23 1996
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From: mike  peck <summit-stained-glass@worldnet.att.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Brass Came
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1996 13:10:56 +0000
Message-ID: <1996Oct8.131056.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

At 03:05 AM 10/8/96 +0000, you wrote:
>Hi,
>
>	I've never worked with brass came.  Is there anything special to
>know about it?  Does it tarnish like zinc?  Is there something special
>you put on it after it's finished (like say, to frame a panel)?
>
>Thanks,  Jerri
>	

all hard cames,( ie brass, copper and zinc) work pretty similar.  i think
copper is a littler harder metal than the others so it tends to be more
tenacious.  it helps to have a cutoff saw like jarmac or gryphon, a miter
block and hacksaw will wear you down eventually.  also a good came bender is
worth the investment, but if your short on cash, cut a round "wheel" from
1/8" plywood using a hole saw, then wrap the heart of the came around the
wheel to get the arc you want.  it's a little slow, but i did it that way
for years before i broke down and bought a came bender. if you don't use
something to butt up with the channel heart, the came will roll to one side
while you bend it and will be unusable. try to cut any corners with a 45
degree miter, don't just butt the end of one to the side of the other, sure
sign of an amature.  when soldering, use a hot iron, ie 800-900 degrees.
this will get the came hot much quicker and allow the solder to flow
completely into the joint ........ but move quickly because if you heat
brass or copper too high, it will discolor, so try soldering a few scrape
pieces of came first.

good luck, and i'll be interested to see others reply to this one.

mike peck
summit stained glass


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>

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From owner-glass Tue Oct  8 07:05:43 1996
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@mars.superlink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Infinite loop?
Date: Tue, 08 Oct 1996 10:00:39 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct8.6039.0>
References: <<1996Oct8.0814.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Albert Lewis [IGGA] wrote:
> 
>    >personnaly i don't care either way if you read it or not, that's up to
>    >you, just don't re-read those parts, make the quoted parts bold, i don't
>    >like it when people don't quote the message and i have no idea at all
>    >what their talking about.
> 
> I guess there's not much one can say to you, Mike, given that kind of an
> attitude on your part.  Ask for a little courtesy, a little thoughtfulness, and
> whaddya get?  A slap inna face.  Nice.  Very nice.
> 
> That's enough for me, thank you.
> 
> Albert
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

you know i've been getting other e-mail about the subject, don't get me
wrong or anything, i'm not NEGATIVE or anything. basically everyone is
telling me that i should waste my time editing down a text, when other's
don't do it either, i don't see the problem just scroll down to the
bottom of the screen, and if your reader does'nt do that, get another
reader. but don't take that the wrong way.

---Mike Savad

-- 
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http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
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From owner-glass Tue Oct  8 07:14:08 1996
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From: April Paine <vgplugs@primeline.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Brass Came
Date: Tue, 08 Oct 1996 10:18:29 -0700
Message-ID: <1996Oct8.31829.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Victorian Greenhouse & Stained Glass
Precedence: bulk

Mike Peck wrote:
> 
> Jerri asked,
> >       I've never worked with brass came.  Is there anything special when working with brass came?.
 
Mike answered,
 It helps to have a cutoff saw like jarmac or gryphon, a miter block and 
hacksaw will wear you down eventually.  also a good came bender is worth 
the investment.

April asked,

Which saw do you like?  What is the best came bender anyone knows of?
What solder did you use with the brass came? Will the solder points 
tarnish like brass if outside (that would be desirable)?
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From owner-glass Tue Oct  8 07:20:07 1996
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@mars.superlink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: ??????????
Date: Tue, 08 Oct 1996 10:15:11 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct8.61511.0>
References: <<1996Oct8.45053.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

GlasCrafts@aol.com wrote:
> 
> maybe... but that is a common thing, it not like i would go out and say
> i'm going out disney'ing or something like that when i have a good
> expensive time ;). it's like calling a PC and IBM everyone knows what
> your talking about, but there are alot more companies then just IBM. or
> something like that.
> 
> ---Mike Savad
> 
> What ARE you talking about??????
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

what do mean what am i talking about, i was replying to another text, it
should have quoted, and if it did'nt , then i guess in this form it just
does'nt make any sense at all, does it?

---Mike Savad

-- 
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http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
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From owner-glass Tue Oct  8 07:40:38 1996
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@mars.superlink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Brass Came
Date: Tue, 08 Oct 1996 10:34:22 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct8.63422.0>
References: <<1996Oct8.31829.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

April Paine wrote:
> 
> Mike Peck wrote:
> >
> > Jerri asked,
> > >       I've never worked with brass came.  Is there anything special when working with brass came?.
> 
> Mike answered,
>  It helps to have a cutoff saw like jarmac or gryphon, a miter block and
> hacksaw will wear you down eventually.  also a good came bender is worth
> the investment.
> 
> April asked,
> 
> Which saw do you like?  What is the best came bender anyone knows of?
> What solder did you use with the brass came? Will the solder points
> tarnish like brass if outside (that would be desirable)?

this is what i have: for cutting came and other small thin metal items i
use the Glasscor Mini Miter II that's a great tool to have, the first on
was kind of a pain to use because the blade was directly driven which
meant the motor was in the way if you tried to miter a certain
direction, the new one does'nt. anyway, the came bender i have (though
don't use very often, it just another toy for my collection :) ) is the
Cascade Came Bender, which i think is the only came bender that's
around, or atleast that i know of. i don't think it makes a big
difference which solder you use. i would probably use 50-50 for it's
strength and cheapness. if your worried about whitning, try (after
cleaning) coating the points of solder with nail polish, then with a
brass marker, so the solder will blend better. and as for brass
tarnishing, hmmm... i wonder what door manufactures do? there came stays
shiny for a long time, i guess they use laquer or something, but that
would'nt solder too well, i would probably just use my chem-o-pro glass
wax, that should be fine.

---Mike Savad



-- 
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http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
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From owner-glass Tue Oct  8 07:46:46 1996
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From: RTMEMT@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Back to SG?
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1996 10:45:11 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct8.64511.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Albert,

>I guess there's not much one can say to you, Mike, given that kind of an
>attitude on your part.  Ask for a little courtesy, a little thoughtfulness,
and
>whaddya get?  A slap inna face.  Nice.  Very nice.

I like your style; always so diplomatic.  I prefer the high road myself.  But
my partner is trying to teach me Irish Diplomacy:  Tell someone where to go
in such a way as they enjoy the trip.  I haven't quite perfected it yet.
 Glenna has already stated the obvious:  some people just don't get it.
 "Salient" must be a foreign word.  In this case I think it's just laziness
hiding behind a bad memory.  Oh well, we all have our strengths and
weaknesses.  Mom always said: don't beat a dead horse, our time is too
precious.  So for those of us with full schedules, it appears the only
effective answer is a few  keystrokes on that delete button.  (Sorry,
couldn't help myself.)  End of story.

Back to SG, which I think used to be the topic of this list.  I'm designing a
prairie style window for a customer now using Youghiogheny Stipple.  It's a
great joy because both style and glass are my personal favorites.  No cranky
customer or artisan here!

...But I have promises to keep and miles to go before I sleep, and miles to
go before I sleep.

Rita
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From owner-glass Tue Oct  8 09:04:54 1996
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From: jroey@juno.com (Jerri M Roey)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Brass Came and Brass Markers?
Date: Tue, 08 Oct 1996 11:52:53 EDT
Message-ID: <1996Oct8.155253.0>
References: <<1996Oct8.31829.0>>>
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Thanks Mike and Mike for the help.  Where do you find the brass markers? 
I've heard of them, but never seen one.  Maybe I've overlooked them in my
catalogs.

Jerri
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From owner-glass Tue Oct  8 09:17:48 1996
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From: mike  peck <summit-stained-glass@worldnet.att.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Brass Came
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1996 16:14:00 +0000
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>
>April asked,
>
>Which saw do you like?  What is the best came bender anyone knows of?
>What solder did you use with the brass came? Will the solder points 
>tarnish like brass if outside (that would be desirable)?
>----
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>
i just read mike savad's reply to this and must agree with his assessment of
the smaller came saws.  we originally bought a jarmac and it worked fine,
but it is difficlut to use on small cuts because the table is so small that
you need another person on the end of a six foot piece of came in order to
handle it SAFELY!   the jarmac seems to be real durable, and the blades have
a good lifetime, but it is akward at best because it is so small.  the
gryphon is a good saw, but you can't see the mark on your came when your
trying to cut to a specific length because the plastic housing hangs over
too far.  you have to get on your knees to see underneath the housing.  my
other complaint is that the blades do not last long at all, we use 2-3 per
month, and they are not cheap, and only available from gryphon (imagine
that!).  i like the "chop saw" design much better than the "table tops", but
i think there are still improvements that could be made to the gryphon.  

brass is brass and as long as it is exposed to oxygen, it will tarnish.
door manufacturers that use the brass came will usually sandwich the piece
between two tempered sheets of clear plate, then flood the inside with argon
or nitrogen to flush out the oxygen. other than that, i have heard of some
coating with polyurethane or a good coat of carnuba wax that seems to retard
the tarnish, but you should plan on a good cleaning every 1-2 years.  brass,
and copper is high maintenance material, zinc and lead are no maintenance
........ that argument in itself tends to sway my customers! 

mike peck

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From owner-glass Tue Oct  8 10:37:39 1996
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From: len alcamo <alcamoz@mwt.net>
To: glass@bungi.com, glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Brass Came
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1996 12:33:26 -0500
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At 11:05 PM 10/7/96 EDT, Jerri M Roey wrote:
>Hi,
>
>	I've never worked with brass came.  Is there anything special to
>know about it?  Does it tarnish like zinc?  Is there something special
>you put on it after it's finished (like say, to frame a panel)?
>
>Thanks,  Jerri
 
Hi Jerri,

The first piece I did was with brass *crowned* came that is brass over lead
which I think is a little easier to work with...it doesn't kink as easily
and the lead heart cushions the glass.  Brass came will facet your glass on
occasion when you insert it in the came. These panels were installed in door
transoms in 1984 they now look pretty crappy the brass is all tarnished with
green streaks the gold marker is gone off the solder joints. They were just
installed against the existing glass from the inside. Ofcourse all it would
take to renew them would be to take them down buff out the brass and repaint
the solder joints. So I guess 10-12 years aint too bad.

 To Mike S,

Most of the commercial brass camed panels are installed inside of
thermopanes, and are pretty much immune to moisture. I think thats why they
hold up. We'll see what happens to them after time when they are in a *leaker*. 
----------------------------------------------------
I personally do not care for brass camed panels 

It is a material that has been adopted by commercial door and window
manufacturers who produce a lot of mediocre designs

It's a pain to work with... always charge a substantial premiun if you do
use it...its a real time sucker if your doing alot of curves

I can hardly think of one good reason why one would want the matrix of a SG
panel to be highly reflective

I will continue to steer clients away from it as best I can. Although it
seems like more folks are asking after it. 

The only brass panels I have done that I can say that I really liked were a
set of kitchen cabinet panels all straight line 20's looking geometrics in
deep green, amber and red textured cathedrals against mahogoney stained
frames. That application held some appeal for me.

Len

OBTW.. if you don't have a came saw and you have a table saw you can take an
old fine tooth plywood blade put it in backwards (teeth to the rear) and cut
hard came with it in a pinch ...BE CAREFUL! 

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From owner-glass Tue Oct  8 14:34:22 1996
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@mars.superlink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Brass Came and Brass Markers?
Date: Tue, 08 Oct 1996 17:20:13 -0400
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Jerri M Roey wrote:
> 
> Thanks Mike and Mike for the help.  Where do you find the brass markers?
> I've heard of them, but never seen one.  Maybe I've overlooked them in my
> catalogs.
> 
> Jerri
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


welp, i've gotten mine at pearl paint and at a local craft store,
however you can probably find it in a good stationary and office supply
store. they run about 2-3 bucks.

---Mike Savad

oh yeah choose ex fine, so you can use it to mark on dark glass.


-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
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From owner-glass Tue Oct  8 15:15:50 1996
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From: "Albert Lewis [IGGA]" <70544.3642@CompuServe.COM>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Back to SG?
Date: 08 Oct 96 18:13:16 EDT
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   >Mom always said: don't beat a dead horse, our time is too precious.

Yes.  Personally, I always liked "Never try to teach a pig to sing.  It wastes
your time, and annoys the pig."  O'course, I'm talking about one made of glass.
<g>

Albert
                __________________________________________
                Albert Lewis            Executive Director
                International Guild of Glass Artists, Inc.
                __________________________________________
                     http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/

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From owner-glass Tue Oct  8 15:16:26 1996
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From: "Albert Lewis [IGGA]" <70544.3642@CompuServe.COM>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: Brass Came
Date: 08 Oct 96 18:13:15 EDT
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   >I can hardly think of one good reason why one would want the matrix of a
   >SG panel to be highly reflective

Len, I bite my lip *all the time to keep from saying anything about all of the
interest in bright, shiny cames.  Yours is the first comment I've seen (or that
I can remember, senility to one side) that actually comes down on the side of
patinated leads.  Good for you.

I keep having this vision of Chartres or Notre Dame (or, closer to home, St.
Patrick's Cathedral in NYC) with shiny cames.  Ouch!

Of course, it's a matter of taste and mine just doesn't happen to run toward
shininess.  Others' do, obviously, and that's fine.

Albert

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From owner-glass Tue Oct  8 16:12:00 1996
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From: artglass@waterw.com (pj friend)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Where's SpectrumGlas
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1996 19:11:29 -0400
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Mike wrote:
>
>are you using any type of plugin that interfere's with the graphics?
>that's usally the first thing i check into. try also to erase the cache
>in netscape, maybe there's some bad graphic in there.
>
>---Mike Savad
>
Mike,

I clear my caches always...thats not the problem.

I have no poblems at any other site but this one.  And I view some pretty
heavy sites!! Got a few thing I need to check out.  Thanks all for your
suggestions.

my best,
pj>

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From owner-glass Tue Oct  8 16:59:18 1996
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Brass Came: Shine on or off?
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@mail.nildram.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 00:32:21 +0000
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Len, Mike Peck and Albert;
Shiny, reflective cames??? YUK!! Imagine "li'lle Ole England" with 
low-slung cottages, village churches,; Canterbury, St.Paul's, Ely, 
Liverpool, Coventry & York Cathedral with bright, shiny, reflective 
cames!!!

Come to that, what a nightmare to photograph!!

This "trend" has not yet quite reached us Across the Pond, although I 
have seen the first "murmurs" of it. Will make sure I get into heavy 
boots  to "stamp it out".
Now and then, strangely enough, my students express a preference for 
"shiny" reflective lead-came on their work.  I get quite  horrible 
and brutal and promptly tell tem that Mother Nature prefers that lead 
oxidizes and unless they are prepared to scrub, polish, wirewool 
their lead every 5 minutes (and eventually wear the lead out [at 
least- that's what I tell them]), they are far better to work WITH 
Mother Nature and help/control the oxidizing process along....
When  the dirty word "brass-cames" is mentioned in class, I remind my 
students that we are not a bunch of double-glazing merchants, 
but Artists & Craftsmen of lead (and copperfoil) and glass.....
That soon shuts them up...........   :-)
In any case, I don't use chemical "patinas" to  clean/polish my lead, 
but use an old fashioned black stove polishing cream; used for old cast 
iron wood-stoves. It gives the lead that georgeous old mellow 
"sheen", that I have never found that modern liquid patinas can 
achieve. I am sure you have your own equivalents "Over There".
(If in doubt, ask Grannie!)

I just KNOW what will happen now..... someone will tell me off and 
point out that Brass Came has "its role and place"...
I agree that it does, but I'd sooner avoid it, if I possibly can.
>From this corner you will not find any "shine" or  mirror 
reflections; only a "mellow glow".  (Like me, really...?   ;-)    )
Elisabeth 'n Toby
----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
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From owner-glass Tue Oct  8 16:59:53 1996
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
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Subject: Re: Back to SG?
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Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 00:32:21 +0000
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From:          "Albert Lewis [IGGA]" <70544.3642@CompuServe.COM>
To:            <glass@bungi.com>
Subject:       Back to SG?
Date:          08 Oct 96 18:13:16 EDT
Reply-to:      glass@bungi.com


   >Mom always said: don't beat a dead horse, our time is too precious.

Yes.  Personally, I always liked "Never try to teach a pig to sing.  It wastes
your time, and annoys the pig."  O'course, I'm talking about one made of glass.
<g>

Albert


..... A stained glass pig, Albert??!! Of course, that's what you mean !!
>From Across the Pond, comes another expression.... and Pigs may fly....   
;-))
Elisabeth 'n Toby

----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
----
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From owner-glass Tue Oct  8 17:11:25 1996
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@mars.superlink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Where's SpectrumGlas
Date: Tue, 08 Oct 1996 20:06:24 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct8.16624.0>
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pj friend wrote:
> 
> Mike wrote:
> >
> >are you using any type of plugin that interfere's with the graphics?
> >that's usally the first thing i check into. try also to erase the cache
> >in netscape, maybe there's some bad graphic in there.
> >
> >---Mike Savad
> >
> Mike,
> 
> I clear my caches always...thats not the problem.
> 
> I have no poblems at any other site but this one.  And I view some pretty
> heavy sites!! Got a few thing I need to check out.  Thanks all for your
> suggestions.
> 
> my best,
> pj>
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

does it crash at a particular point on the page, at a certain graphic,
it could be a pluggin conflict, maybe it can't read a particular code in
one of the gifs. how big is your netscape's cache? i set mine to 12
megs, it helps a bit. i also set the memory cache to 600k. 

try the memory size adjustments, and if those don't work, i'll try to
dig through my brain and figure something out. 

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
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From owner-glass Tue Oct  8 17:57:51 1996
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From: mhooper@vladmire.voiceisp.net (Mark Hooper)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Brass Came and Brass Markers?
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1996 20:54:33 -0400
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At 5:20 PM 10/8/96, M. Savad wrote:
>Jerri M Roey wrote:
>>
>> Thanks Mike and Mike for the help.  Where do you find the brass markers?
>> I've heard of them, but never seen one.  Maybe I've overlooked them in my
>> catalogs.
>>
>> Jerri

>
>
>welp, i've gotten mine at pearl paint and at a local craft store,
>however you can probably find it in a good stationary and office supply
>store. they run about 2-3 bucks.
>
>---Mike Savad
If wou have a wholesale account Brass "Unipaint Markers" can be had from
The Glass Emporium North Wales, PA...can't recall the number just now, if
interested let me know, I'll look it up.


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From owner-glass Tue Oct  8 21:40:57 1996
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From: Dave Loda <dloda@fbo.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: scratched glass
Date: Tue, 08 Oct 1996 21:47:26 -0700
Message-ID: <1996Oct8.144726.0>
References: <<96Oct2.163019-0700pdt.270196-29807+35@aphex.direct.ca>>
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daver!direct.ca!tonsper wrote:
> 
> > I had a problem recently grinding GNA.  The backs of
> >the pieces got really scratched.
> >- Marilyn Kaminski
> >A New Light

> I had this problem awhile ago.  With each pass of a piece
> of glass grit does build up.  Now I am in the habit of holding
> my glass up off the surface of the grinder.  This has solved
> the scratching problem, as well as adjusting  the grinding
> head up and down.  

Debbie,

I hope you take precautions when you are grinding like this.  Glass dust
is not something you want to get into your lungs.  I have met a lady who 
did dry grinding and was in the hospital for over 6 months.  

Dave
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From owner-glass Tue Oct  8 22:53:49 1996
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From: "Christie A. Wood" <104344.622@CompuServe.COM>
To: "bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Glass Emporium in North Wales, PA
Date: 09 Oct 96 01:45:36 EDT
Message-ID: <1996Oct9.54536.0>
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Mark Hooper wrote:
<If wou have a wholesale account Brass "Unipaint Markers" can be had from
The Glass Emporium North Wales, PA...can't recall the number just now, if
interested let me know, I'll look it up.>

The Glass Emporium
322 S. Pennsylvania
North Wales, PA 19454
215-699-7007

***Caution***  This place has very strict rules about who it deals with, since
it is a wholesale only supplier.  I know...I live in North Wales, PA and Glass
Emporium is only 9 blocks from my house/studio, and I can't get on their list
since I don't own a store front even though I meet all the other wholesale
purchase criteria.

...Christie

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From owner-glass Wed Oct  9 02:42:20 1996
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From: Andrea King <aking@source.com.au>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: For Andrea
Date: Wed, 09 Oct 1996 18:50:13 -0700
Message-ID: <1996Oct9.115013.0>
References: <<199610071647.JAA16338@peseta.ucdavis.edu>>
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Kathe R. McDonald wrote:
> 
> Andrea, don't forget to pack for "winter" when you come over. Your summer
> is our winter. 

Thanks Kathy, I'm terrified as I don't know just how cold it will be and 
brrrrrrrrrr I hate the cold.  My biggest worry is when I visit Stephanie 
in Lansing.  Then I'm heading for Charlotte in North Carolina and I don't 
think it will be as cold there (at least I'm praying).

Andrea


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From owner-glass Wed Oct  9 02:42:42 1996
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From: Andrea King <aking@source.com.au>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Brass Came: Shine on or off?
Date: Wed, 09 Oct 1996 19:38:09 -0700
Message-ID: <1996Oct9.12389.0>
References: <<199610082357.AAA21209@linux.nildram.co.uk>>
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Toby wrote:

> In any case, I don't use chemical "patinas" to  clean/polish my lead,
> but use an old fashioned black stove polishing cream; used for old cast
> iron wood-stoves. It gives the lead that georgeous old mellow
> "sheen"

I also use stove polish on lead came and it give a lovely mellow sheen.

About brass came, I have not used it as yet and am surprised to hear it 
is used in a double glazed process.  I would have thought it would have 
been used on its own for its strength therefore eliminating double 
glazing.  I personally don't think it compares to the look of lead came 
but as Elizabeth said, it probably has its place.  Anyway I'll not rush 
to experiment with it, particularly if its a b@#$!%! to work with. 

Andrea
Melb, Aust

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From owner-glass Wed Oct  9 05:44:21 1996
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From: "Kristen Marie Wright" <wrightk5@pilot.msu.edu>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Brass Came
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 08:43:16 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <199610091243.IAA41525@pilot02.cl.msu.edu>
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> What solder did you use with the brass came? Will the solder points

Don't forget that brass is a hard metal. A way to get around this hardness is
to buy capped lead. It has a greater flexability and looks just like brass or
whatever metal is capped over the lead. depending on that ammount of cash you
want to spend on gadgets, this can be the cheapest way around the hard metals

kristen
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From owner-glass Wed Oct  9 07:44:02 1996
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From: April Paine <vgplugs@primeline.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Brass Came 
Date: Wed, 09 Oct 1996 10:48:17 -0700
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Organization: Victorian Greenhouse & Stained Glass
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> April asked,
> 
> Which saw do you like?  What is the best came bender anyone knows of?
> What solder did you use with the brass came? Will the solder points
> tarnish like brass if outside (that would be desirable)?


I think you guys misunderstood what I was asking.  I make a line of 
garden art (windmills, waterfalls, birdhouses, etc..) and this old green 
tarnished look is what you want but you also want the solder points to 
match so what is used.          April
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From owner-glass Wed Oct  9 07:47:43 1996
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From: len alcamo <alcamoz@mwt.net>
To: glass@bungi.com, <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: Brass Came
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 09:42:41 -0500
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>
>Of course, it's a matter of taste and mine just doesn't happen to run toward
>shininess.  Others' do, obviously, and that's fine.


 I really don't visit too many glass shops/studios/retailers but the people
that I do know are not making any attempt to encourage the use of brass
came, for several valid reasons, and I've yet to see one as a display panel
in a storefront studio. 

Most of that brass stuff is installed in entries... pro... alot more folks
are exposed to SG...con...they are conditioned to think that the brass look
is in so they ask for it

 Why have commercial outfits decided on brass as the standard?;

That's what everybody's doing?.......

It makes for a very stiff panel that requires no bracing or cement (true,
from personal experience).........

It's a conspiracy... flood the market with a product that's in most cases
impractical to reproduce at your friendly local SG shop.......

It nicely matches the doorknob and porch ceiling fixture........

Whatever, it's out there hopefully it will run it's course. There have been
several good points brought up on how to deal with folks who ask about it
and I'll add all of them to my arsenal in the war on brass  :-)

 All of the above is IMHO

Len

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From owner-glass Wed Oct  9 07:49:25 1996
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From: len alcamo <alcamoz@mwt.net>
To: glass@bungi.com, glass@bungi.com
Subject: black stove polish was Re: Brass Came: Shine on or off?
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 09:45:14 -0500
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>In any case, I don't use chemical "patinas" to  clean/polish my lead, 
>but use an old fashioned black stove polishing cream; used for old cast 
>iron wood-stoves. It gives the lead that georgeous old mellow 
>"sheen", that I have never found that modern liquid patinas can 
>achieve. I am sure you have your own equivalents "Over There".

Hi Elisabeth,

Since you finish off with stove polish can I assume that your cement is
either the white stuff or it does not have any blackening or polishing
properties in the formula or is it just another step in the finishing
process? Just curious.
 I'm going to look around for black stove polishing cream.  It's that time
of year to fire up the ol' wood stove ( Jotul 602 ) and it can use some
spiffing up. I'll try it on the lead came too.
 I agree with you on the chem patina on lead thing too. Although I do
occasionaly use black patina on solder joints that get shiney from the way
the panel is handled, being slid on a table before or after flipping usually.

Len

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From owner-glass Wed Oct  9 08:09:45 1996
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@mars.superlink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Brass Came
Date: Wed, 09 Oct 1996 11:03:06 -0400
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len alcamo wrote:
> 
> 
> >
> >Of course, it's a matter of taste and mine just doesn't happen to run toward
> >shininess.  Others' do, obviously, and that's fine.
> 
>  I really don't visit too many glass shops/studios/retailers but the people
> that I do know are not making any attempt to encourage the use of brass
> came, for several valid reasons, and I've yet to see one as a display panel
> in a storefront studio.
> 
> Most of that brass stuff is installed in entries... pro... alot more folks
> are exposed to SG...con...they are conditioned to think that the brass look
> is in so they ask for it
> 
>  Why have commercial outfits decided on brass as the standard?;
> 
> That's what everybody's doing?.......
> 
> It makes for a very stiff panel that requires no bracing or cement (true,
> from personal experience).........
> 
> It's a conspiracy... flood the market with a product that's in most cases
> impractical to reproduce at your friendly local SG shop.......
> 
> It nicely matches the doorknob and porch ceiling fixture........
> 
> Whatever, it's out there hopefully it will run it's course. There have been
> several good points brought up on how to deal with folks who ask about it
> and I'll add all of them to my arsenal in the war on brass  :-)
> 
>  All of the above is IMHO
> 
> Len
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


i think the brass look is in because people like bright shiny things. it
gives a house more class. which would you rather see: scenerio a mansion
typr house, double door entry: bevels with dull lead came, or bevels
with shiny brass. i would probably chose brass (as the owner). lead
just  kind of depicts old, old churches, etc. and of course the lead
threat to people (the consumer might be afraid because there is another
source of lead in the house) where as we the glass person knows the
exposure is fairly minimal, unless you lick the panel.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
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From owner-glass Wed Oct  9 09:35:02 1996
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From: mike  peck <summit-stained-glass@worldnet.att.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Brass Came: Shine on or off?
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 13:17:42 +0000
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>
>About brass came, I have not used it as yet and am surprised to hear it 
>is used in a double glazed process.  I would have thought it would have 
>been used on its own for its strength therefore eliminating double 
>glazing.  I personally don't think it compares to the look of lead came 
>but as Elizabeth said, it probably has its place.  Anyway I'll not rush 
>to experiment with it, particularly if its a b@#$!%! to work with. 
>
>Andrea
>Melb, Aust
>

Andrea, just a point to clarify.  as part of our local building codes
(midwest usa), builders are REQUIRED to place any kind of multi-paned window
that will exist within an exterior door, sandwiched in a triple glazed unit
using tempered glass.  there are a lot of older homes, (ie, 20 plus years)
that went up before this code came into effect, but the new code has
presented quite a boon to us. people still love that leaded and beveled
glass look in their entryways and are willing to pay the extra price for the
triple glazed inserts.  the brass and beveled glass look is also popular,
but not as much as lead.  personnaly, i agree with the lady from the UK on
brass, YUK, but if the customer really wants it, i'll brass it out rather
than send them down the road!  also a point of interest, another area where
people want natural light with privacy are the bathrooms.  local building
codes require triple glazed units here also for any installation within 60
inches of a drain (greatest risk for slippery floors).   

mike peck
midwest, usa

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From owner-glass Wed Oct  9 10:39:38 1996
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From: len alcamo <alcamoz@mwt.net>
To: glass@bungi.com, glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Brass Came
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 12:35:34 -0500
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>i think the brass look is in because people like bright shiny things. it
>gives a house more class. which would you rather see: scenerio a mansion
>typr house, double door entry: bevels with dull lead came, or bevels
>with shiny brass. i would probably chose brass (as the owner). lead
>just  kind of depicts old, old churches, etc. and of course the lead
>threat to people (the consumer might be afraid because there is another
>source of lead in the house) where as we the glass person knows the
>exposure is fairly minimal, unless you lick the panel.
>
>---Mike Savad


Your probably right Mike, I'm reading too much into this thing. This stuff
is popular because people like the way it looks. These same folks might
never have considered commissioning a window from a glass studio but are
willing to pick out a design (like picking out wallpaper or carpeting) no
fuss, no muss, boom!, there it is, new door and glass the whole enchalada.
They were able to successfully mainstream SG in spite of all our efforts to
do the same. Great bit of marketing. But if look back into the history of SG
in this country there was an movement by an outfit called the National
Ornamental Glass Manufacturers Association that attempted to standardize
designs and mass market mediocre SG. It proved to be a dismal failure in the
long haul and almost buried residential SG. I worry what effect this stuff
will have on the smaller operators who depend on window commissions for
their income.

You can call me old fashioned but I always thought that the lead was there
to hold together the glass, apparently the case now is that the glass is
there to hold together the brass. ;-)

Len

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From owner-glass Wed Oct  9 10:42:42 1996
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From: roadrunner47@juno.com (Jacque E Smith)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Brass Came: Shine on or off?
Date: Wed, 09 Oct 1996 13:41:54 EDT
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How do you apply and remove excess stove black.. I think that is a
terrific idea and would like to try it..Does it have anything that will
weaken the foil or the adhesive in stove black. Thanks for the idea 
..Roadrunner
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From owner-glass Wed Oct  9 14:32:07 1996
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@mars.superlink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Brass Came
Date: Wed, 09 Oct 1996 17:26:47 -0400
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April Paine wrote:
> 
> > April asked,
> >
> > Which saw do you like?  What is the best came bender anyone knows of?
> > What solder did you use with the brass came? Will the solder points
> > tarnish like brass if outside (that would be desirable)?
> 
> I think you guys misunderstood what I was asking.  I make a line of
> garden art (windmills, waterfalls, birdhouses, etc..) and this old green
> tarnished look is what you want but you also want the solder points to
> match so what is used.          April
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

so basically your asking what you use to make the solder look green,
without electroplating it, i'd suggest you try verre de gree (spelling?)
paint. either the type that you use copper paint then green patina, or
just go for green paint to match.

---Mike Savad

-- 
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http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
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From owner-glass Wed Oct  9 14:36:05 1996
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@mars.superlink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Brass Came
Date: Wed, 09 Oct 1996 17:30:57 -0400
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len alcamo wrote:
> 
> >i think the brass look is in because people like bright shiny things. it
> >gives a house more class. which would you rather see: scenerio a mansion
> >typr house, double door entry: bevels with dull lead came, or bevels
> >with shiny brass. i would probably chose brass (as the owner). lead
> >just  kind of depicts old, old churches, etc. and of course the lead
> >threat to people (the consumer might be afraid because there is another
> >source of lead in the house) where as we the glass person knows the
> >exposure is fairly minimal, unless you lick the panel.
> >
> >---Mike Savad
> 
> Your probably right Mike, I'm reading too much into this thing. This stuff
> is popular because people like the way it looks. These same folks might
> never have considered commissioning a window from a glass studio but are
> willing to pick out a design (like picking out wallpaper or carpeting) no
> fuss, no muss, boom!, there it is, new door and glass the whole enchalada.
> They were able to successfully mainstream SG in spite of all our efforts to
> do the same. Great bit of marketing. But if look back into the history of SG
> in this country there was an movement by an outfit called the National
> Ornamental Glass Manufacturers Association that attempted to standardize
> designs and mass market mediocre SG. It proved to be a dismal failure in the
> long haul and almost buried residential SG. I worry what effect this stuff
> will have on the smaller operators who depend on window commissions for
> their income.
> 
> You can call me old fashioned but I always thought that the lead was there
> to hold together the glass, apparently the case now is that the glass is
> there to hold together the brass. ;-)
> 
> Len
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

yeah pretty much, the 'coomon' people who don't do stained glass,
generally don't know what goes into stained glass, and as long as it
goes well inside the house, then that's ok by them. what people could
do, to get out of working with brass, is to have a different price range
for solid brass, brass capped, zinc, lead, etc. giving you a little more
money in the pocket, and they feel (maybe) it's a little better, because
it's (solid brass), kind of a show off point. even though the strenth is
around the same if you putty it.

---Mike Savad

-- 
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http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
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From owner-glass Wed Oct  9 14:47:47 1996
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From: "Albert Lewis [IGGA]" <70544.3642@CompuServe.COM>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: Brass Came
Date: 09 Oct 96 17:45:56 EDT
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   >These same folks might never have considered commissioning a window from
   >a glass studio but are willing to pick out a design (like picking out
   >wallpaper or carpeting) no fuss, no muss, boom!, there it is, new door and
   >glass the whole enchalada. They were able to successfully mainstream SG in
   >spite of all our efforts to do the same. Great bit of marketing.

Sears Roebuck's catalog was carrying stained glass by the yard a hundred years
ago, believe it or don't. <s>  It was all the rage.  But like all "fads" of
taste and decoration, people's interests moved on to other things
.. just as they will eventually these days, too.

   >But if look back into the history of SG in this country there was an
   >movement by an outfit called the National Ornamental Glass Manufacturers
   >Association that attempted to standardize designs and mass market
   >mediocre SG. It proved to be a dismal failure in the long haul and almost
   >buried residential SG.

That's what the Stained Glass Association of America (SGAA) was originally
called; it was formed primarily to combat the imported European stained glass by
doing everything they could to have tariffs imposed, etc.

Albert
                __________________________________________
                Albert Lewis            Executive Director
                International Guild of Glass Artists, Inc.
                __________________________________________
                     http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/

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From owner-glass Wed Oct  9 17:08:10 1996
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Subject: Re: scratched glass
Date: Wed Oct  9 17:07:35 1996
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>I hope you take precautions when you are grinding like this.  Glass dust
>is not something you want to get into your lungs.  I have met a lady who 
>did dry grinding and was in the hospital for over 6 months.  
Dave
I guess that I was not specific enough.  Although I am holding the glass
off the surface of the grinder, the grinding head is constantly being wet
by a sponge.  I also dip my glass pieces in a bucket of water, a bit of dish
soap, and sponges, that I keep to the side of my grinder.  I have the greatest
of respect for glass dust and do not wish to injure myself in any way.  The
worst that I do is usually paper like cuts from my copper foil or the odd nick,
when I am not paying attention, from a piece of glass.  That is when it is 
time for a cup of tea.  
Thanks for the warning though.  We sometimes cannot be too careful.
Debbie Alexander

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From owner-glass Wed Oct  9 17:26:17 1996
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Brass Came: Shine on or off?
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@mail.nildram.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 00:58:45 +0000
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Hi Roadrunner,
How to apply stove black and remove excesses?

Over here we buy it in tubes. I apply it mainly on leaded panels, but 
suppose it should work fine on copperfoil also.
Gentle squeeze and dab in small quantities only (and I mean small!) 
onto the solder joints of a leaded panel. Then I just simply brush it 
in with a large soft shoebrush and kepp on polishing - in a way just 
like shoes.... The favorite brush I have , is quite large and looks 
rather like an old fashined horse brush, with a bowed piece of wood 
added to the back of the brush for extra grip when holding. It not 
only polishes the lead, but also cleans the glass a real treat.

As regards damaging the copperfoil, I would think that it does less 
damage than a chemical patina. Assuming however, that you have got a 
nice rounded solder "beading" on to your copper work, then the copper 
and solder will have bonded into one. The adhesive on the copperfoil 
is at that time on the whole redundant, as the solder should do the 
job. With a soft brush, you are doing no more (really) than what you 
would do in a general domestic situation, i.e. cleaning & polishing 
the objects around you. If my copperfoil work cannot stand up to general 
domestic dusting & cleaning, then I haven't done them right.

Hope this helpful...
Elisabeth 'n Toby 
----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
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From owner-glass Wed Oct  9 17:26:19 1996
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
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Subject: Re: Brass Came
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Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 00:58:45 +0000
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Mike to Len : Agree with you Mike! To "Joe Public" Brass Equals 
Class, he thinks, without the faintest idea of what traditional 
stained glass is all about.

Making solder "green" to match brass (...when green), your e-mail 
addressed to April:
"verre de gree" (spelling?) - try: verre de gris
Elisabeth 'n Toby
----
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http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
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From owner-glass Wed Oct  9 17:26:19 1996
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Brass Came
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@mail.nildram.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 00:58:45 +0000
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Hi Len,

"Now the glass is there to hold together the brass..."
Nicely put and interesting comment altogether.
And I agree wholeheartedly. But then, perhaps I am old-fashioned too.
(So much for the image of a radical Swede... sigh... !)
Elisabeth 'n Toby
----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
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From owner-glass Wed Oct  9 17:26:20 1996
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Brass Came: .....OLD...???
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@mail.nildram.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 00:58:45 +0000
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Hi Mike Peck,
Interesting how cultural differences with us folks who speak the same 
language creep up again and again. (Quite fun too!)
...Older house (i.e. those bult 20 years or so),  you said.
That is OLD?? In UK this would be a modern house (i.e. new)
What in YOUR eyes would my little 250 year old cottage be??
And if you are taller than about 5'9", you'll have to duck, to avoid 
banging your head...
TRIPLE glazing! WOW!! ( Here it's REALLY modern to have 
DOUBLE-glazing....) I haven't even got THAT!   :-(
Mind you, I get up some mornings and feel 250 years old too...
Elisabeth 'n Toby
----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
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From owner-glass Wed Oct  9 17:26:21 1996
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Brass Came
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@mail.nildram.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 00:58:45 +0000
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Hi Albert,
You said,

That's what the Stained Glass Association of America (SGAA) was originally
called; it was formed primarily to combat the imported European stained glass by
doing everything they could to have tariffs imposed, etc.

Wonderful!!   We Europeans get it in the neck again :-(
Elisabeth 'n Toby



----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
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From owner-glass Wed Oct  9 17:26:24 1996
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: black stove polish was Re: Brass Came: Shine on or off?
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@mail.nildram.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 00:58:45 +0000
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Hi Len,
"Do I use white cement or one that does don have any "polishing 
agent" in it?"
Neither is the best answer,
The cement I use is  itself black, not at all like any other "putty" 
I have seen and certainly does not resemble "glaziers' putty in the 
remotest. Nor does it polish - if anything, it does everything BUT 
polish. It's horrible, grungy, "gooey" and floats about in linseedoil 
that you have to mix back in again. You try and cement your panels 
using gloves, the gloves (whatever material you use) end up being 
shredded, so I have given up using gloves Brushes, hm... but unless 
you spend a good while afterwards cleaning them (which still gets the 
grunge underneath your fingernails and everywhere else...) they go 
stiff, clogged up and un-useable.... So you end up using your bare 
hands in the end. My hands and fingernails are in a dreadful state as 
a result.
For the "dainty ladies" , of which there are always one or two in my 
classes, I recommend using an old toothbrush (and tell them to clean 
it carefully after use, ready for the night's oblutions.... :-)   ).
If ever I get an apprentice (sigh... and pigs may fly...), apart from 
cleaning the floor, making the tea, cementing would be the most 
important job for him/her to do (i.e. the one I like doing myself the 
least).
Why not use silicone sealant?, asked one of my students once. Hmm, 
certainly got me thinking. God, I MUST love stained glass to subject 
myself to the torture of the cementing process....
The stove polish is the very last, final touch the cherry on the 
cake, for me. It also highlights very cleary the odd spot of black 
cement still stuck on the glass that I will then need to "pick" off.
Mind you, I DO occasionally use chemical patina. Occasionally I get 
the odd solder joint that just WILL NOT blend in with the stove 
polish, It stubbornly refuses to lose its white shine (often for the 
very reasons you mentioned). I dab it with 
a little bit of black patina, leave it for a while and then repolish 
with stove polish. That usually does it.
Elisabeth 'n Toby
----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
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From owner-glass Wed Oct  9 17:38:19 1996
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@mars.superlink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Brass Came
Date: Wed, 09 Oct 1996 20:31:57 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct9.163157.0>
References: <<199610100023.BAA30120@linux.nildram.co.uk>>
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Toby wrote:
> 
> Mike to Len : Agree with you Mike! To "Joe Public" Brass Equals
> Class, he thinks, without the faintest idea of what traditional
> stained glass is all about.
> 
> Making solder "green" to match brass (...when green), your e-mail
> addressed to April:
> "verre de gree" (spelling?) - try: verre de gris
> Elisabeth 'n Toby
> ----
> As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
> North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
> http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm
> ----
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

i was close...:) but you knew what i was talking about at least.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
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From owner-glass Wed Oct  9 19:05:19 1996
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From: mike  peck <summit-stained-glass@worldnet.att.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Brass Came: .....OLD...???
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 02:04:43 +0000
Message-ID: <1996Oct10.2443.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

At 12:58 AM 10/10/96 +0000, you wrote:
>Hi Mike Peck,
>Interesting how cultural differences with us folks who speak the same 
>language creep up again and again. (Quite fun too!)
>...Older house (i.e. those bult 20 years or so),  you said.
>That is OLD?? In UK this would be a modern house (i.e. new)
>What in YOUR eyes would my little 250 year old cottage be??
>And if you are taller than about 5'9", you'll have to duck, to avoid 
>banging your head...
>TRIPLE glazing! WOW!! ( Here it's REALLY modern to have 
>DOUBLE-glazing....) I haven't even got THAT!   :-(
>Mind you, I get up some mornings and feel 250 years old too...
>Elisabeth 'n Toby
>

Hi Toby,

I put that comment in parens because I knew that people from Europe were
looking in on this group.  Yes, old in our neck of the woods is 25 years and
a house 50 years old is probably ready to be razed to make room for the new
shopping center, or whatever.  A house 250 years old might be called .......
a teepee!

I do enjoy the cultural differences and exchanges!  Hope to get to know you
better!

Mike

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From owner-glass Thu Oct 10 00:34:09 1996
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From: roadrunner47@juno.com (Jacque E Smith)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Brass Came: Shine on or off?
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 03:10:14 EDT
Message-ID: <1996Oct10.71014.0>
References: <<199610100023.BAA30114@linux.nildram.co.uk>>
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Thanks very much for the clear and concise explaination on using the
stove black..I will give it a try..especially on my leaded panel. I
really don't care for the look of patinas on my foil pieces, but do use
it as it makes some of the features of the glass come alive. I am into
doing, southwestern pieces and always looking for new ways to finish
them..Thanks again. Roadrunner
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From owner-glass Thu Oct 10 01:11:16 1996
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From: llutz <llutz@tpgi.com.au>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Brass Came: .....OLD...???
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 18:13:41 +1100
Message-ID: <1996Oct11.51341.0>
References: <<199610100023.BAA30108@linux.nildram.co.uk>>
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Toby wrote:
> 
> Hi Mike Peck,

> TRIPLE glazing! WOW!! ( Here it's REALLY modern to have
> DOUBLE-glazing....) I haven't even got THAT!   :-(
> Mind you, I get up some mornings and feel 250 years old too...
> Elisabeth 'n Toby
> ----
> As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
> North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
> http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm
Out here in sunny Australia- a majority of houses don't even have
insulation in the house walls- much less double glazing. Our winter days
are usually about 20 degrees C (about 65-75 degrees F) and we would only
get 10 or 12 decent frosts over winter- and never snow where I live. We
have a single wood heater for the entire house and it does a good job
too. The brass came is popular for front doors here- but it is only a
single thickness panel.
Larry from Minore

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From owner-glass Thu Oct 10 03:20:14 1996
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From: Andrea King <aking@source.com.au>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Brass Came: .....OLD...???
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 20:09:31 -0700
Message-ID: <1996Oct10.13931.0>
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llutz wrote:
> 

> Out here in sunny Australia- Our winter days
> are usually about 20 degrees C (about 65-75 degrees F) 

Hi Larry,

Try moving down to Melbourne for winter, try 12-13 degrees C, I think 
I'll move up your way next winter!!

Andrea
Melb


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From owner-glass Thu Oct 10 03:20:15 1996
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From: Andrea King <aking@source.com.au>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Brass Came: Shine on or off?
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 19:43:00 -0700
Message-ID: <1996Oct10.12430.0>
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mike peck wrote:
>just a point to clarify.  as part of our local building codes
>(midwest usa), builders are REQUIRED to place any kind of multi-paned 
>window that will exist within an exterior door, sandwiched in a triple 
>glazed unit using tempered glass. 

Mike thanks for the clarification.  It is interesting and I can 
understand the safety aspects.  By triple glazing doors, does this stop 
the possibility of damage to the leadlight (I do realise people's safety 
come first, but I hate to see a beautiful panel damaged).  Doors take a 
bit of a pounding and sometimes result in a crack in the leadlight panel 
here or there.

I also can understand, what the custsomer wants....  The reason I was 
going to put it into my door was for strength and secutiry, but I love 
the look of lead and the way it weathers over time.  I'll just design a 
panel that will lend itself to lots of reinforcement.  I might even think 
of double glazing.

Andrea


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From owner-glass Thu Oct 10 06:21:41 1996
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From: "David J. Loundy" <David@Loundy.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Brass Came: .....OLD...???
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 08:19:34 -0500
Message-ID: <v03007800ae82a7ac0249@[204.149.98.194]>
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At 6:13 PM +1100 10/10/96, Larry from Minore wrote:

>Out here in sunny Australia- a majority of houses don't even have
>insulation in the house walls- much less double glazing. Our winter days
>are usually about 20 degrees C (about 65-75 degrees F) and we would only
>get 10 or 12 decent frosts over winter- and never snow where I live. We
>have a single wood heater for the entire house and it does a good job
>too. The brass came is popular for front doors here- but it is only a
>single thickness panel.
>Larry from Minore

I recently had to repair a piece that was put directly into a window
without panes on either side (against my recommendation).  It cracked from
the cold.

Gotta love those 80 below zero (F) wind-chills here in the midwest...
(This was in Iowa.)

--David--



_______________________________________________________________________
David J. Loundy              | E-Mail: David@Loundy.com
                             | WWW: http://www.Loundy.com/
"Don't forget:Apple and Honda| Phone: (847) 926-9744
 have the same size market   | Listserv (for my Technology Law column):
 share in their respective   |  Send a message reading "subscribe"
 businesses"  --G. Kawasaki  |  to Loundy-request@netural.com
_______________________________________________________________________


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From owner-glass Thu Oct 10 06:31:54 1996
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From: "James R. Laws" <jlaws@indy.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Mail Problems
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 08:31:33 -0500
Message-ID: <1996Oct10.33133.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I know this was already discussed, but I am using Navigator Gold Beta
and some of the correspondence from this group has caused my mail to
freeze.  I have reported the problem to Netscape.  Unfortunately, I had
to totally reload my program to be able to read my mail and I lost all
of the discussion on the problem without being able to read it.  Was
there any conclusion?  Thanks!
----
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From owner-glass Thu Oct 10 07:23:36 1996
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From: David Cogen <cogen@ll.mit.edu>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: How to repair foiled stained glass?
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 96 10:15:10 -0400
Message-ID: <9610101015.AA00983@LL.MIT.EDU>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


Hi everyone. I am new to the list, and an amateur stained glass maker. 

I have made several pieces, but have never had to repair one yet. I am
wondering: If I have a piece made from foiled glass, how to I remove a broken
pane? It would seem that I would have to simultaneously melt all the solder
surrounding the pane, so that I can remove the broken pane while the solder is
melted. Obviously a soldering iron will not do that; it only melts near where
the iron is at that instant. How is this done?

-- David.

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From owner-glass Thu Oct 10 07:42:55 1996
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@mars.superlink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Mail Problems
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 10:37:50 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct10.63750.0>
References: <<1996Oct10.33133.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

James R. Laws wrote:
> 
> I know this was already discussed, but I am using Navigator Gold Beta
> and some of the correspondence from this group has caused my mail to
> freeze.  I have reported the problem to Netscape.  Unfortunately, I had
> to totally reload my program to be able to read my mail and I lost all
> of the discussion on the problem without being able to read it.  Was
> there any conclusion?  Thanks!
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

welp, number one download the final version of gold. 
the problem was the date on gregs side, it was 2096, it turns out
there's a bug in netscape that won't allow the date to be above 2038, so
it crashes. the only way to fix it it to either edit the inbox, or erase
it all together. but greg fixed the date, and every thing is working
fine now.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
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From owner-glass Thu Oct 10 07:54:03 1996
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@mars.superlink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: How to repair foiled stained glass?
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 10:49:03 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct10.6493.0>
References: <<9610101015.AA00983@LL.MIT.EDU>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

David Cogen wrote:
> 
> Hi everyone. I am new to the list, and an amateur stained glass maker.
> 
> I have made several pieces, but have never had to repair one yet. I am
> wondering: If I have a piece made from foiled glass, how to I remove a broken
> pane? It would seem that I would have to simultaneously melt all the solder
> surrounding the pane, so that I can remove the broken pane while the solder is
> melted. Obviously a soldering iron will not do that; it only melts near where
> the iron is at that instant. How is this done?
> 
> -- David.
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

ok it's a little difficult to describe by typing, but i'll try.

1. clean the project off, just to get any gunk off.

2. score the broken piece like crazy, criss cross in a grid across the
piece.

3. tap on the back of the piece, with the ball, to crack out the lines.

4. carefully poke out the pieces with a needlenose pliers, be carefull
though you might bend the project.

5. try to remove as much of the glass as you can, though don't force any
of it out.

6. heat up your iron.

7. apply alot of flux to both sides of the project, where the outline of
the piece was.

8. melt the joint out with the iron, using the iron like a putty knife,
'walk' the iron under the foil so it lifts away. becarefull in this
step, because you could cause the surrounding pieces to crack, the
opposite foil to lift out or rip.

9. continue doing this until all the old foil and glass is removed. it
might be difficult and smelly at first if the piece was patinaed.

10. reflux the opening, and melt out any execess solder, just be sure
the opening is smooth.

11. clean the project off, remove flux, dry, etc. then sweep off your
bench, you don't have to turn off your iron, unless the piece is going
to take a while to cut.

12. put your new glass under the project, trace the opening onto the
glass (so you have a tight fit later).

13. cut, grind (and be sure that it's going to fit), and foil the piece.

14. stick it in the opening, and solder as usual, the only tricky part
is that the piece will be lower, depending on the height of the solder
on the back of the project.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
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From owner-glass Thu Oct 10 09:09:21 1996
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	id m0vBNeq-00011Ma; Thu, 10 Oct 96 09:08 PDT
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From: Charles Spitzer <charlie@az.stratus.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Brass Came: Shine on or off?
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 96 09:08:10 -0700
Message-ID: <m0vBNee-000LiKC@why.az.stratus.com>
References: <<1996Oct10.71014.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Customer Assistance Center, Stratus Computer, Inc.
Precedence: bulk

Does anyone have a contact place, or type of place to look, to purchase  
stove black in the US? There aren't that many old stoves around anymore,  
especially in Phoenix, that this is a common grocery store item.

adthanksvance
---
Charles Spitzer
charlie@az.stratus.com
Customer Assistance Center
Stratus Computer, Inc.
Phoenix, AZ
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From owner-glass Thu Oct 10 10:32:55 1996
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	id m0vBOyC-0001MDa; Thu, 10 Oct 96 10:32 PDT
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From: RTMEMT@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: How to repair foiled stained glass?
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 13:32:19 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct10.93219.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Mike,

Nice explanation. Since there are infinite ways to skin a cat,  I'd like to
offer an option to one of your steps:

>8. melt the joint out with the iron, using the iron like a putty knife,
>'walk' the iron under the foil so it lifts away. becarefull in this
>step, because you could cause the surrounding pieces to crack, the
>opposite foil to lift out or rip.

I do this a little differently, for the following reasons.  One, too much
risk of damage to glass, soldering tip (if too aggressive) and  individual
(more exposure to fumes than necessary.  Having manufactured radioactive
drugs for 20 years incredibly safely, my best advice is to limit your
exposure to the nasties whenever you can.  Working with radioactivity is one
of the best ways to understand how seemingly insignificant techniques can
easily cause contamination; because it is so easy to detect.)  Two, soldering
out the lead takes too long and is very awkward.  Since labor is the highest
cost component of SG, I try to reduce labor costs as much as possible
allowing my pricing to be more competitive.

So, I  perform radical surgery.  After popping out offending piece as Mike
described, I use my grozing pliers and lead knife (or triangular file) to
remove solder and foil from edge of adjacent "good" glass. ( If the spirit
moves me, I'll leave about 1/4 inch at joints for an overlap with new
foil...tho this isn't entirely necessary.  If you do it's best then to remove
as much solder with your iron as you can to get a better foil to foil
contact...tho this presents the same issues as noted above, but to a lesser
extent.)  I refoil these edges, getting as close to existing solder as
possible.  Then proceed as Mike described.

>14. stick it in the opening, and solder as usual, the only tricky part
>is that the piece will be lower, depending on the height of the solder
>on the back of the project.

You can raise this piece by placing something handy underneath it, like
washers, popsicle sticks, cardboard, nails;  be creative.

Just another way to skin the cat.  Do what you're comfortable with.

Rita
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From owner-glass Thu Oct 10 11:43:52 1996
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From: mike  peck <summit-stained-glass@worldnet.att.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Brass Came: Shine on or off?
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 18:37:27 +0000
Message-ID: <1996Oct10.183727.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

At 04:08 PM 10/10/96 +0000, you wrote:
>Does anyone have a contact place, or type of place to look, to purchase  
>stove black in the US? There aren't that many old stoves around anymore,  
>especially in Phoenix, that this is a common grocery store item.
>
>adthanksvance
>---
>Charles Spitzer


there's a small shop down the street from us that says they have it:

Hearth and Home Specialties
555 NW Blue Pkwy
Lee's Summit, Mo 64063
(816)524-7492

mike peck

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From owner-glass Thu Oct 10 14:20:35 1996
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	id m0vBSWT-0000z9a; Thu, 10 Oct 96 14:20 PDT
X-Path: Loundy.com!David
From: "David J. Loundy" <David@Loundy.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: How to repair foiled stained glass?
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 16:13:38 -0500
Message-ID: <v03007803ae8316d01e83@[204.148.86.87]>
References: <<9610101015.AA00983@LL.MIT.EDU>>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

At 10:49 AM -0400 10/10/96, Mike Savad wrote:

>13. cut, grind (and be sure that it's going to fit), and foil the piece.
>
>14. stick it in the opening, and solder as usual, the only tricky part
>is that the piece will be lower, depending on the height of the solder
>on the back of the project.
>

I find that by holding the piece in place with something like packing tape
you can adjust the height of the piece you are inserting and thus solder it
in level.  It also helps contain any solder that runs through.

--David--



____________________________________________________________________
David J. Loundy            | E-Mail: David@Loundy.com
                           | WWW: http://www.Loundy.com/
"I love deadlines.  I like | Phone: (847) 926-9744
 the whooshing sound they  | Listserv (for my Technology Law column):
   make as they fly by."   |  Send a message reading "subscribe"
   --Douglas Adams         |  to Loundy-request@netural.com
____________________________________________________________________


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From owner-glass Thu Oct 10 17:13:19 1996
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	id m0vBVDo-0000xia; Thu, 10 Oct 96 17:13 PDT
X-Path: ix.netcom.com!izzy3
From: izzy3@ix.netcom.com (Michael Smoucha )
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Infinite loop?
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 17:12:52 -0700
Message-ID: <199610110012.RAA20412@dfw-ix7.ix.netcom.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Mike wrote: 
>
>
>   >personnaly i don't care either way if you read it or not, that's 
up to
>

Albert wrote   >
>I guess there's not much one can say to you, Mike, given that kind of 
an
>attitude on your part. 
>
>Albert
>
>----

I agree with Albert and Rita. A little pruneing of the previous 
messages is not to much to ask. I also tend to delete most of your and 
some others responses for lack of time. Please try to help all of use 
our time eficiently, as you often have interesting things to say, 
things that may be lost to those of us to busy to hassle with lazy 
responses.

ms

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From owner-glass Thu Oct 10 17:40:19 1996
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	id m0vBVdz-0000ypa; Thu, 10 Oct 96 17:40 PDT
X-Path: ix.netcom.com!izzy3
From: izzy3@ix.netcom.com (Michael Smoucha )
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Brass Came
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 17:39:54 -0700
Message-ID: <199610110039.RAA28449@dfw-ix3.ix.netcom.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

You wrote: 
>
>
>   >I can hardly think of one good reason why one would want the 
matrix of a
>   >SG panel to be highly reflective
>
>Len, I bite my lip *all the time to keep from saying anything about 
all of the
>interest in bright, shiny cames.  Yours is the first comment I've seen 
(or that
>I can remember, senility to one side) that actually comes down on the 
side of
>patinated leads.  Good for you.
>
>
The other part of Len's reply is also of interest. That is brass as the 
other "hard" cames are are REAL pain to work in. They also do not hold 
up the way lead does. I have seen copper, brass and zinc panels that 
are 30 to 40 years old and well beyond repair. On the other hand I've 
seen leaded panels from the 12th century where the came is still 
viable. In truth in a proper installation all the cames become black 
lines anyway.

ms
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From owner-glass Thu Oct 10 18:49:19 1996
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	id m0vBWii-0000fsa; Thu, 10 Oct 96 18:49 PDT
X-Path: nz1.netzone.com!lorley
From: "Lorley L. Oneyear" <lorley@netzone.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: fishin line
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 18:51:23 -0600
Message-ID: <2.2.32.19961011005123.006775b4@mail.netzone.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Just finished two small suncatchers.. approx 6" sq and 10" sq .. wondering
what size/kind of fishing line I'll need to buy to hang em.. (didn't know
there were so many sizes to choose from!!!)   Thanks.

Lorley in Arizona

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From owner-glass Thu Oct 10 21:26:49 1996
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	id m0vBZB8-0001Dga; Thu, 10 Oct 96 21:26 PDT
X-Path: juno.com!jroey
From: jroey@juno.com (Jerri M Roey)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Warner Crivellaro Problems?
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 23:27:34 EDT
Message-ID: <1996Oct11.32734.0>
References: <<1996Oct10.183727.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi Everybody

	Thanks for all the responses to my little brass came question. 
I've enjoyed all the reading.  Next question:

	Has anyone had problems with returning items or broken glass to
Warner Crivellaro?  I recently placed my first order with this company. 
One of the things I ordered was the patchwork pattern bevels with the
brass came frames (that's where my question came from).  Having no
experience with bevels or brass came, it seemed like a way to be
introduced to both.  It turned out that the patten was bigger than the
frame, and after I cut it down, I noticed the patterns were very poorly
drawn.  They are simple patterns that should have been easily done with a
ruler and protractor, but lines on the simple geometric shapes that
should have been parallel weren't and the pattern should have been mirror
image when folded in half, but pieces that should have been the same
size, weren't.  I faxed WC a message over a week ago and asked them to
send me a new pattern if this problem had been corrected, but I have not
heard from them.  

	Also, I placed my order over five weeks ago and received no
information about an item that was backordered until my husband called to
check on it the other day.  ("Uhhhhh, maybe in a couple of weeks.")  I
guess I'm used to companies that either give a backorder date, or say it
will be out within 30 days and then notify me if it's not.  All this
after waiting 5 months for a catalog.

	So far I'm not real impressed with the company, but they have a
great catalog with items I've never seen anywhere else.  I live in a
rural area and the nearest glass shop is over an hour away, so I do
everything via mail, BUT I'm very excited to say a brave couple is
opening a store about 10 miles from where I live.  As I don't even know
another person (other than you all) that does glass, I'm thrilled.

	I just wondered about anyone else's experience with Warner
Crivellaro.  I was wondering about returning broken glass.  Their catalog
says to notify the shipper re: damages, but my local UPSer tells me that
UPS will tell me to notify the company. WC says they don't send
replacements until the receive the damaged items.  UPS also said they may
not want to return broken glass. (I know how UPS treats things: I clerked
for them in college, many years ago.  I also married one of them.)  I
guess I'm used to  Delphi, where when I've had breakage, I just call them
up and they send a replacement right away.  I was getting ready to place
a large (for me, anyway) glass order.  While WC's prices are considerably
better, I'm not sure I want to order through them.

	Thanks for any comments.

Jerri
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From owner-glass Fri Oct 11 03:37:42 1996
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X-Path: bright.net!joyce
From: glasschic <joyce@bright.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: stove black source
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 1996 06:35:05 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct11.2355.0>
References: <<1996Oct10.183727.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

mike peck wrote:
> 
> At 04:08 PM 10/10/96 +0000, you wrote:
> >Does anyone have a contact place, or type of place to look, to purchase
> >stove black in the US? There aren't that many old stoves around anymore,

> there's a small shop down the street from us that says they have it:
> 
> Hearth and Home Specialties
> 555 NW Blue Pkwy
> Lee's Summit, Mo 64063
> (816)524-7492
> 


Is this the same thing as lamp black that you can add to putty to make 
it black?  Been looking for that stuff for years!  If not, can anyone 
give me a source?  BTW still need a wholesale source for cutter caps.

Garden of Glass
Joyce Moran
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From owner-glass Fri Oct 11 03:44:18 1996
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From: glasschic <joyce@bright.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: How to repair foiled stained glass?
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 1996 06:41:45 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct11.24145.0>
References: <<1996Oct10.6493.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

> 
> 14. stick it in the opening, and solder as usual, the only tricky part
> is that the piece will be lower, depending on the height of the solder
> on the back of the project.
> 
> ---Mike Savad
> 

I use popsicle sticks to lay under the new piece of glass to support it 
to the height of the old glass.  (And for anyone who doesn't 
know....popsicle sticks are about 1/16 of an inch thick wooden sticks 
about 4" long.)  If that's not exactly the right thickness, I use layers 
of light cardboard cut to fit smaller than the repair piece and use as 
many as necessary to make it the desired thickness.

Garden of Glass
Joyce Moran
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From owner-glass Fri Oct 11 03:51:51 1996
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From: glasschic <joyce@bright.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: fishin line
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 1996 06:49:20 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct11.24920.0>
References: <<2.2.32.19961011005123.006775b4@mail.netzone.com>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Lorley L. Oneyear wrote:
> 
> Just finished two small suncatchers.. approx 6" sq and 10" sq .. wondering what size/kind of fishing line I'll need to buy to hang em.. 
>(didn't know there were so many sizes to choose from!!!)   Thanks.

> Lorley in Arizona


I personally like fishing line, but just a note, my customers won't buy 
anything with fishing line, they want chain!  I only use the jewelry 
chain for box lids, and use the med jack chain for all suncatchers, for 
anything heavier, I put a wood frame around and use heavy duty chain.

Garden of Glass
Joyce Moran
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From owner-glass Fri Oct 11 05:06:49 1996
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X-Path: memach.com!lcbell
From: Linda Campbell <lcbell@memach.com>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: RE: How to repair foiled stained glass?
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 1996 08:07:40 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct11.4740.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Mike says:

8. melt the joint out with the iron, using the iron like a putty knife,
'walk' the iron under the foil so it lifts away. becarefull in this
step, because you could cause the surrounding pieces to crack, the
opposite foil to lift out or rip.

I'm new but a friend of mine cuts aluminum cola cans into strips. She 
forces the corner of the strip in between the two foiled pieces as she is 
melting the solder with the iron. this keep it from flowing back together 
as she slides it along all around the piece. Primative but it seems to 
work.

Linda


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`
end

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From owner-glass Fri Oct 11 06:00:45 1996
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From: elgarber@falcon.cc.ukans.edu (Ellen Garber)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Photographs
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 1996 08:00:14 -0500
Message-ID: <9610111300.AA09801@falcon.cc.ukans.edu>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I know this was discussed sometime back, but too long ago for me to recall.
I need some tips on taking photographs of my work.  How do I take a picture
of a window without getting a background, or flash glare, with transparent
glass?
Ellen
 
 

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From owner-glass Fri Oct 11 06:58:03 1996
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	id m0vBi4Y-0000ZSa; Fri, 11 Oct 96 06:56 PDT
X-Path: scv.net!fullspec
From: Kay Allen <fullspec@scv.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Pricing a Beveled Window
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 1996 06:54:56 -0700
Message-ID: <1.5.4.32.19961011135456.006a2618@mail.scv.net>
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Hi all,

A while back I read alot of good info on how to price our work by the sq.ft,
etc.  But how does one arrive at a price when rather expensive bevel
clusters are included in the design?  The panel totals about eleven sq.ft
and has approx. 130 pieces with a central cluster and two lesser clusters on
each side.  TIA

Kay

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From owner-glass Fri Oct 11 07:25:44 1996
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From: RTMEMT@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Photographs
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 1996 10:24:04 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct11.6244.0>
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Ellen,

> How do I take a picture of a window without getting a background, or flash
glare, with >transparent glass?

This is a difficult question to answer simply in this venue.  Glass is one of
the most difficult items to photo correctly, even for many pros.  Explanation
also depends on how much you know about photography and light and what
equipment you have.  

If you don't have a lot ofequipment, you can jerry rig a few things which
will produce a result without the problems you mentioned above.  Some
suggestions:  

1. To eliminate background:  tape transparent mylar (aka polyester drafting
film) or tracing paper to back of window.

2.  To eliminate glare:  glare is caused by angle of light reflecting from
glass surface back to lens and also harshness of light.   You will need to
experiment a lot depending on your equipment. Your window should be both
backlit thru mylar and front lit in a way to reduce glare.  Without making
major investments, use natural light (sunlight) for backlighting.  Hopefully
you have a non-automatic 35mm camera, so you can manually bracket different
exposures.  If you don't, this will be an arduous experimentation task.  If
you have one, a light meter at the glass will help position your light
sources and help with bracketing exposure settings. For front lighting, don't
use flash attached to camera.  If you have detachable flash, try bouncing it
off a light colored ceiling or large white cardboard (there will still be
some glare with this).  Better still, use 2 floodlights (reasonably
inexpensive via mailorder photo ) with 3200 degrees K bulbs (approx. natrual
light) at 45 degree angles to window on right and left.  Also, better to
diffuse this lighting in a number of different ways.  It can be bounced like
the flash.  Mylar or white sheets can be placed a non-flammable distance away
between light and window.  Baffles of white cardboard can be set up to filter
and bounce light (this is too complicated to explain here......check some
photog books at library).  

I haven't tried this, but you could try to take window (if not installed)
outside on a overcast day (no direct sunlight).  Unroll mylar  (or white
sheet) so it is both behind window and rolls underneath and in foreground of
window.  This would probably be the least expensive option.

I photo my own work because I've had a lot of photo classwork.  But I know
several glass artists who don't bother and take their work to a pro who is
knowledgable in glass photography (not all are, or are willing to do set-up).
 If you want pro quality photo, you need some special equipment to do that.
 Hope this helps.  If you have more specific questions, I'll try to help
further.  It would help to know what equipment you have.

Rita
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From owner-glass Fri Oct 11 07:29:22 1996
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@mars.superlink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Infinite loop?
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 1996 10:24:23 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct11.62423.0>
References: <<199610110012.RAA20412@dfw-ix7.ix.netcom.com>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Michael Smoucha wrote:
> 
> Mike wrote:
> >
> >
> >   >personnaly i don't care either way if you read it or not, that's
> up to
> >
> 
> Albert wrote   >
> >I guess there's not much one can say to you, Mike, given that kind of
> an
> >attitude on your part.
> >
> >Albert
> >
> >----
> 
> I agree with Albert and Rita. A little pruneing of the previous
> messages is not to much to ask. I also tend to delete most of your and
> some others responses for lack of time. Please try to help all of use
> our time eficiently, as you often have interesting things to say,
> things that may be lost to those of us to busy to hassle with lazy
> responses.
> 
> ms
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

you see i see it the other way. #1 are people that lazy they can't move
the scroll bar down a noth or two? #2 i find it more convient when the
original messages are in there. when someone replies to me with out
quoting, i have know idea what there replying about. usally i just
ignore the quote, but on occasion i had to refresh myself, and the only
way i could do that was to look into my trash folder, if i did'nt erase
it already.

---Mike Savad

-- 
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From owner-glass Fri Oct 11 07:34:16 1996
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@mars.superlink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: fishin line
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 1996 10:27:16 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct11.62716.0>
References: <<2.2.32.19961011005123.006775b4@mail.netzone.com>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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Lorley L. Oneyear wrote:
> 
> Just finished two small suncatchers.. approx 6" sq and 10" sq .. wondering
> what size/kind of fishing line I'll need to buy to hang em.. (didn't know
> there were so many sizes to choose from!!!)   Thanks.
> 
> Lorley in Arizona
> 
> ----
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generally i go with the heaviest that i can tie in a knot. i found 20lb
works pretty well, just be sure to give it a good knot, and pull on it
while you do it, you would'nt want it to untie on you.

---Mike Savad

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From owner-glass Fri Oct 11 07:36:00 1996
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@mars.superlink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: How to repair foiled stained glass?
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 1996 10:31:02 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct11.6312.0>
References: <<1996Oct11.24145.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

glasschic wrote:
> 
> >
> > 14. stick it in the opening, and solder as usual, the only tricky part
> > is that the piece will be lower, depending on the height of the solder
> > on the back of the project.
> >
> > ---Mike Savad
> >
> 
> I use popsicle sticks to lay under the new piece of glass to support it
> to the height of the old glass.  (And for anyone who doesn't
> know....popsicle sticks are about 1/16 of an inch thick wooden sticks
> about 4" long.)  If that's not exactly the right thickness, I use layers
> of light cardboard cut to fit smaller than the repair piece and use as
> many as necessary to make it the desired thickness.
> 
> Garden of Glass
> Joyce Moran
> ----
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in general i just use tape or my fingers. though i've used popsicle
sticks for spacers, on complex lid's and bases, for boxes.

---Mike Savad

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From owner-glass Fri Oct 11 07:38:38 1996
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@mars.superlink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: How to repair foiled stained glass?
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 1996 10:33:40 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct11.63340.0>
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Linda Campbell wrote:
> 
> Mike says:
> 
> 8. melt the joint out with the iron, using the iron like a putty knife,
> 'walk' the iron under the foil so it lifts away. becarefull in this
> step, because you could cause the surrounding pieces to crack, the
> opposite foil to lift out or rip.
> 
> I'm new but a friend of mine cuts aluminum cola cans into strips. She
> forces the corner of the strip in between the two foiled pieces as she is
> melting the solder with the iron. this keep it from flowing back together
> as she slides it along all around the piece. Primative but it seems to
> work.
> 
> Linda
> 
>                    Name: WINMAIL.DAT
>     Part 1.2       Type: unspecified type (application/octet-stream)
>                Encoding: x-uuencode
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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whatever works, generally i found my iron would melt the can. i will
also use a pair of small pliers, to carefully pull at the foil while
it's melting. which ever way works, there are lots of ways to do
something, but fixing stained glass, is a pain regardless of what method
you choose.

---Mike Savad

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From owner-glass Fri Oct 11 07:42:31 1996
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@mars.superlink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Pricing a Beveled Window
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 1996 10:37:35 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct11.63735.0>
References: <<1.5.4.32.19961011135456.006a2618@mail.scv.net>>
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Kay Allen wrote:
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> A while back I read alot of good info on how to price our work by the sq.ft,
> etc.  But how does one arrive at a price when rather expensive bevel
> clusters are included in the design?  The panel totals about eleven sq.ft
> and has approx. 130 pieces with a central cluster and two lesser clusters on
> each side.  TIA
> 
> Kay
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

what i would first do is to add the price of the clusters in. then i'd
choose the other methods discussed. because basically it's the same,
just because you did'nt cut out have the panel, does'nt mean it was less
work.

---Mike Savad

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From owner-glass Fri Oct 11 07:42:49 1996
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@mars.superlink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Photographs
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 1996 10:35:45 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct11.63545.0>
References: <<9610111300.AA09801@falcon.cc.ukans.edu>>
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Ellen Garber wrote:
> 
> I know this was discussed sometime back, but too long ago for me to recall.
> I need some tips on taking photographs of my work.  How do I take a picture
> of a window without getting a background, or flash glare, with transparent
> glass?
> Ellen
> 
> 
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


although i'm no expert, and i'm courious on the subject too. i heard if
you use a etched piece of glass or gluechip for a background it maybe
diffused enough. latley i've been bringing my stuff outside, putting it
on an off white sheet, and taking them in direct strong sunlight. this
method works prettywell for most stuff.

---Mike Savad

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From owner-glass Fri Oct 11 08:06:28 1996
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From: mike  peck <summit-stained-glass@worldnet.att.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Warner Crivellaro Problems?
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 1996 15:06:01 +0000
Message-ID: <1996Oct11.1561.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

At 03:27 AM 10/11/96 +0000, you wrote:

> I live in a
>rural area and the nearest glass shop is over an hour away, so I do
>everything via mail, BUT I'm very excited to say a brave couple is
>opening a store about 10 miles from where I live.  As I don't even know
>another person (other than you all) that does glass, I'm thrilled.
>
>	I just wondered about anyone else's experience with Warner
>Crivellaro.  I was wondering about returning broken glass.  Their catalog
>says to notify the shipper re: damages, but my local UPSer tells me that
>UPS will tell me to notify the company. WC says they don't send
>replacements until the receive the damaged items.  UPS also said they may
>not want to return broken glass. (I know how UPS treats things: I clerked
>for them in college, many years ago.  I also married one of them.)  I
>guess I'm used to  Delphi, where when I've had breakage, I just call them
>up and they send a replacement right away.  I was getting ready to place
>a large (for me, anyway) glass order.  While WC's prices are considerably
>better, I'm not sure I want to order through them.
>
>

sorry to hear of your troubles, but delighted to hear that it was with a
cataloge dealer!  being in the retail business myself these catalogue
businesses  tend to be difficult at best to deal with.  the couple you refer
to that are opening a shop nearby are indeed very brave.  do everything you
can to support them and you should get some much better deals, not to
mention service, in the long run.

regarding my experiences, obviously i don't do any business with the
catalogues, but i know the reputable wholesalers will take merchandise back.
however, there are some "special" arrangements on small shipments of glass
where they will send up to four sheets, cut in half (about 24"x24") in a box
at your risk.  and i ask for such shipments all the time and have never
received a single broken sheet.  

the unfortunate side of the retail story is that we can't get the margins
that catalogue houses have because we don't have the volume.  so when you're
dealing with a retailer, you're going to pay more, but the good retailers
are going to make it up in service.

blah, blah, blah ........ sorry, i didn't intend to jump on the soapbox that
quickly.  just delighted to hear of frustrations dealing with catalogue
businesses.  i'll be sure to keep your comments handy for the next customer
that says "How much for that?!!!  Man, I know where I can get it for a lot
less!", or how bout this one, "Hey, I bought this thing out of a catalogue
and they sent me the wrong size, color, whatever.  Could I just exchange it
with you?"



mike peck  

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From owner-glass Fri Oct 11 08:10:41 1996
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From: artglass@waterw.com (pj friend)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Warner Crivellaro Problems?
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 1996 11:10:16 -0400
Message-ID: <9610111510.AA13303@water.waterw.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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Jerri wrote:
>	Has anyone had problems with returning items or broken glass to
>Warner Crivellaro? >>

All I can say is....How long did it take you to get your cat?????? Most
people tell me it takes them months.  Why would you order from someone like
this?????


my best,
pj
>	

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From owner-glass Fri Oct 11 08:15:45 1996
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From: jroey@juno.com (Jerri M Roey)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Fishing line for light catchers
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 1996 11:12:12 EDT
Message-ID: <1996Oct11.151212.0>
References: <<1996Oct11.6244.0>>
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Hi Lorley,

	In 8th grade Home Ec. (I only lasted two weeks, but I did learn
something.) we made beaded jewelry using fishing line.  The teacher
showed us, after the project was completed, how to melt the ends of the
line with a match to melt the knot into a glob or melt the ends into
globs to keep the knot from coming undone.  You have to be careful not to
go to far, but I've done this for lightcathchers too.

Jerri
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From owner-glass Fri Oct 11 08:16:36 1996
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From: artglass@waterw.com (pj friend)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Infinite loop?
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 1996 11:15:05 -0400
Message-ID: <9610111515.AA13507@water.waterw.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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Mike,:
>> 
>> Mike wrote:
>> >
>> >you see i see it the other way. #1 are people that lazy they can't move
>the scroll bar down a noth or two? #2 i find it more convient when the
>original messages are in there. when someone replies to me with out
>quoting, i have know idea what there replying about. usally i just
>ignore the quote, but on occasion i had to refresh myself, and the only
>way i could do that was to look into my trash folder, if i did'nt erase
>it already.>>

I agree with Mike...if there is not some context of what the original
message was the thought gets lost.  And if people are to lazy or not
interested in it...well delete it.  Geezzz how much easier could it get?????

my best,
pj

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From owner-glass Fri Oct 11 08:38:48 1996
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From: "Peggy W. Johnsen" <edupjohn@slonet.org>
To: glasschic <joyce@bright.net>
Subject: Re: stove black source
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 1996 08:31:57 -0700 (PDT)
Message-ID: <1996Oct11.13157.0>
References: <<1996Oct11.2355.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

re:  places to get lamp black.  If lamp black and stove black is the same,
then the lamp black is available at most hardware stores that carry tile
grout and/or paint.  At least that is where I have found it in CA.  PJ.

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From owner-glass Fri Oct 11 09:10:34 1996
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From: mike  peck <summit-stained-glass@worldnet.att.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Brass Came: Shine on or off?
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 1996 16:09:44 +0000
Message-ID: <1996Oct11.16944.0>
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>
  By triple glazing doors, does this stop 
>the possibility of damage to the leadlight (I do realise people's safety 
>come first, but I hate to see a beautiful panel damaged).  Doors take a 
>bit of a pounding and sometimes result in a crack in the leadlight panel 
>here or there.

the triple glazed units that we have put together have been VERY rugged to
abuse so it certainly reduces the amount of repairs we get calls for.  but
you know, the oldest triple glazed units that are out there are probably
only ten years old at best.  so, already, we have seen that some seals have
failed allowing the argon or nitrogen to escape and the unit fills with
condensate every time the humidity goes up, and many of the brassy ones are
tarnishing out very badly.   so now we sandwich the unit between tempered
plate glass, then line the perimeter with a dessicated band to soak up any
moisture, then seal it up with butyl rubber.  i know the seals that we use
today are much more durable than those we used only a few years ago, but
sooner or later the butyl rubber will deteriorate and the dessicant will
become saturated, then the unit will fill with condensate, etc.

most of the residential jobs we get will have some double glazed window in
place (two sheets of clear plate sealed with dessicant) and we work with
whatever mouldings the trim man left us to mount a leaded window on the
interior of the home.  we use clips to mount the leaded window so it will be
removable for cleaning, etc.  from the inside of the home, the leaded window
will be in full brilliance, but from the outside of the home, the leaded
window seems very subdued.  it's a trade off, but if (or when!) the seal
fails on the glazed window, the plate glass fogs up and there is no damage
to the leaded window, it's much cheaper to repair, etc.

 
>I also can understand, what the customer wants....  The reason I was 
>going to put it into my door was for strength and secutiry, but I love 
>the look of lead and the way it weathers over time.  I'll just design a 
>panel that will lend itself to lots of reinforcement.  I might even think 
>of double glazing.
>
>Andrea

in a commercial setting, i would encourage you to look at triple glazing
simply for the strength and safety.  but, residential is not as prone to
abuse, so a pattern affording good reinforcement might be all that is
necessary.  if you want to look at triple glazing, then i am NOT an advocate
of sealing the unit up (per our local codes) rather i think a sandwich
between tempered plate with some kind of venting top and bottom might be
more durable.  even double glazed should be vented.

hope this helps,  any other comments on this one?

Mike Peck

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From owner-glass Fri Oct 11 12:28:38 1996
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From: April Paine <vgplugs@primeline.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Greek /Crashes(not glass related)
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 1996 15:31:14 -0700
Message-ID: <1996Oct11.83114.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Victorian Greenhouse & Stained Glass
Precedence: bulk

Hi,

Has anyone been crashing today due to bungi mail? I noticed some mail 
showing up in Greek before you go to"next" why?  Is this common?

                                                April
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From owner-glass Fri Oct 11 13:10:04 1996
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From: Philip McRae <phil7@tiac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Infinite loop?
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 1996 14:53:14 -0700
Message-ID: <1996Oct11.75314.0>
References: <<199610110012.RAA20412@dfw-ix7.ix.netcom.com>>
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Michael Smoucha wrote:
> 
> Mike wrote:
> >
> >
> >   >personnaly i don't care either way if you read it or not, that's
> up to
> >
> 
> Albert wrote   >
> >I guess there's not much one can say to you, Mike, given that kind of
> an
> >attitude on your part.
> >
> >Albert
> >
> >----
> 
> I agree with Albert and Rita. A little pruneing of the previous
> messages is not to much to ask. I also tend to delete most of your and
> some others responses for lack of time. Please try to help all of use
> our time eficiently, as you often have interesting things to say,
> things that may be lost to those of us to busy to hassle with lazy
> responses.
> 
> ms
> 
> ----
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Hey Mike;

Talk about lazy? Ever hear, or use, the shift key?

Lazy Phil.
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From owner-glass Fri Oct 11 13:52:08 1996
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: stove black source
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@mail.nildram.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 1996 21:24:14 +0000
Message-ID: <199610112049.VAA28213@linux.nildram.co.uk>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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Hi Joyce,

.....is stove black same as lamp black....? you ask.
To the best of my knowledge, don't think it is.. Stove black is 
literally an old fashioned polish for old-fashioned cast iron stoves.
But the black dye used in it, is so strong and powerful, you could 
experiment at adding it to your cement mixture.

In UK it used to be called "Zebrite", but was renamed to "Zebo" a few 
years ago. Here it is produced by  Reckitt & Colman Products Ltd., 
Dansom Lane, Hull, UK, They do export, as they have their own export 
Division Reckitt & Colman (Overseas) Ltd. The product description 
reads:
"Restores the appearance of cast iron. Polishes and protects cast 
iron, steel, objects such as grates, firebacks, barbecues, stoves 
boilers and pipes".
I haven't used it on boilers & pipes, but it does a very good job on 
lead...
Hope this helpful.
Elisabeth 'n Toby
----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
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From owner-glass Fri Oct 11 14:29:38 1996
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@mars.superlink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Greek /Crashes(not glass related)
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 1996 17:24:26 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct11.132426.0>
References: <<1996Oct11.83114.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

April Paine wrote:
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Has anyone been crashing today due to bungi mail? I noticed some mail
> showing up in Greek before you go to"next" why?  Is this common?
> 
>                                                 April
> ----
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> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


welp, the only crashing we had was because of the date thing. never seen
any in greek yet, unless it has'nt come yet.

---Mike Savad

-- 
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http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
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From owner-glass Fri Oct 11 14:34:28 1996
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@mars.superlink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Infinite loop?
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 1996 17:28:12 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct11.132812.0>
References: <<1996Oct11.75314.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Philip McRae wrote:
> 
> Michael Smoucha wrote:
> >
> > Mike wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > >   >personnaly i don't care either way if you read it or not, that's
> > up to
> > >
> >
> > Albert wrote   >
> > >I guess there's not much one can say to you, Mike, given that kind of
> > an
> > >attitude on your part.
> > >
> > >Albert
> > >
> > >----
> >
> > I agree with Albert and Rita. A little pruneing of the previous
> > messages is not to much to ask. I also tend to delete most of your and
> > some others responses for lack of time. Please try to help all of use
> > our time eficiently, as you often have interesting things to say,
> > things that may be lost to those of us to busy to hassle with lazy
> > responses.
> >
> > ms
> >
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> 
> Hey Mike;
> 
> Talk about lazy? Ever hear, or use, the shift key?
> 
> Lazy Phil.
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

dont' mean to sound rude or anything...but what the HELL are you talking
about??

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
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From owner-glass Fri Oct 11 15:03:20 1996
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From: GlasCrafts@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Warner Crivellaro Problems?
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 1996 18:01:58 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct11.14158.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Mike Peck,
Your implication that Warner-Crivellaro is "not reputable" because they are a
cataloger is completely out of line.  Why is it the responsibility of W-C to
replace glass (presumably at no charge) that is broken by UPS?  Particularly
in light of the statement "I know how UPS treats things....."  Obviously
Delphi can afford to replace glass if their prices are "considerably more".
 That is Delphi's business choice.  As you said, you have to pay extra for
extra service from a retailer, why would it be different for a cataloger?
 You completely miss the fact that you are accepting the same terms from your
"reputable" wholesaler.  By your own admission you accept special box
shipments of glass cut in half AT YOUR OWN RISK!  Mr Peck, that means if you
do get breakage, it is not going to be replaced at no charge.  

If you sold a couple of sheets of glass to a customer and they walk outside
your store and drop them......would you replace their glass at no charge?
 Would the customer who dropped the glass expect to have it replaced at no
charge?  
If the answers are no, then why is the cataloger responsible for free
replacement of glass when it is broken in shipment?

Ultimately, each problem must be resolved individually, to the satisfaction
of all parties involved.  If each party is realistic and reasonable in their
expectations, then this is usually not difficult - whether you are a
retailer, cataloger, or customer.
Glass Crafters Stained Glass, Inc.
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From owner-glass Fri Oct 11 16:28:44 1996
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From: "Albert Lewis [IGGA]" <70544.3642@CompuServe.COM>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Greek /Crashes(not glass
Date: 11 Oct 96 18:24:21 EDT
Message-ID: <1996Oct11.222421.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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   >Has anyone been crashing today due to bungi mail? I noticed some mail
   >showing up in Greek before you go to"next" why?  Is this common?

April

Only in Greece (just foolin') <s>

What are you using for reader software?

Albert

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From owner-glass Fri Oct 11 16:28:45 1996
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From: "Albert Lewis [IGGA]" <70544.3642@CompuServe.COM>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Photographs
Date: 11 Oct 96 18:24:10 EDT
Message-ID: <1996Oct11.222410.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


   >How do I take a picture of a window without getting a background, or
   >flash glare, with transparent glass?

Ellen

Having done a little glass photography myself, I'd say having no background when
photographing transparent glass is not a good idea.  You can't see the glass ...
that is, you can't see its character.

If you use a narrow focal length (low F-stop number), bushes and trees in the
background are out of focus, but because the *glass is in focus, those items are
distorted by its texture and give life to the image.  Take a look at Spectrum's
great shots on their site (www.spectrumglass.com) and you'll see what I mean.

Of course, kids' trikes and bikes and passing cabs are another story altogether.

Albert
                __________________________________________
                Albert Lewis            Executive Director
                International Guild of Glass Artists, Inc.
                __________________________________________
                     http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/

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From owner-glass Fri Oct 11 16:28:46 1996
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From: "Albert Lewis [IGGA]" <70544.3642@CompuServe.COM>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: Infinite loop?
Date: 11 Oct 96 18:24:18 EDT
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   >I agree with Mike...if there is not some context of what the original
   >message was the thought gets lost.  And if people are to lazy or not
   >interested in it...well delete it.

pj

The concern that's been expressed is that it's not thoughful to lazily hit
"Reply" and retransmit 50 lines of previous message(s) in order to respond,
instead of echoing only part the message ... as I have done above.

More disturbing than the lack of thoughtfulness, though, has been the
in-your-face truculance that reminds me more of my 14-year-old boy than another
adult.

What's interesting is that I've had several private notes agreeing with my
surprise at the lack of thoughtfulness.  An example:

  Just a note to let you know that I thought Mike took a cheap
  shot but to be honest it doesn't surprise me. I for one hate they
  way they print out the entire previous message and then add
  "thanks" at the bottom as their answer. I totally support you
  request and wanted you to know that. I for one lately when I see,
  "M. Savad" I click on it and drag it to the trash unread. Then
  "dump the trash" often. ...  Others have dropped me notes, too,
  saying they agreed, that   they'd written to Mike and gotten flames back
  from him. He's a wee bit defensive, methinks.


Albert

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From owner-glass Fri Oct 11 16:28:47 1996
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From: "Albert Lewis [IGGA]" <70544.3642@CompuServe.COM>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Pricing a Beveled Window
Date: 11 Oct 96 18:24:12 EDT
Message-ID: <1996Oct11.222412.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


   >But how does one arrive at a price when rather expensive bevel
   >clusters are included in the design?  

Kay

Size and number of pieces have nothing to do with the formula:

   Your cost of materials
+  The value of your time and labor
+  Profit Margin
=  Retail price

So if the materials are expensive, the retail price is higher; if it's taken 
you a long time to build the piece ("there's 18,572 pieces in that panel!"), 
the retail price is higher; if you need a fat margin, the price is higher.

Of course, I know of a glass artist whose windows for a while had only three 
pieces of glass in them ... and he *still commmanded very high prices.  (They 
were the *right three pieces of glass, you see.) <s>

Albert

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From owner-glass Fri Oct 11 17:31:40 1996
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@mars.superlink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Infinite loop?
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 1996 20:26:37 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct11.162637.0>
References: <<1996Oct11.222418.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Albert Lewis [IGGA] wrote:
> 
>    >I agree with Mike...if there is not some context of what the original
>    >message was the thought gets lost.  And if people are to lazy or not
>    >interested in it...well delete it.
> 
> pj
> 
> The concern that's been expressed is that it's not thoughful to lazily hit
> "Reply" and retransmit 50 lines of previous message(s) in order to respond,
> instead of echoing only part the message ... as I have done above.
> 
> More disturbing than the lack of thoughtfulness, though, has been the
> in-your-face truculance that reminds me more of my 14-year-old boy than another
> adult.
> 
> What's interesting is that I've had several private notes agreeing with my
> surprise at the lack of thoughtfulness.  An example:
> 
>   Just a note to let you know that I thought Mike took a cheap
>   shot but to be honest it doesn't surprise me. I for one hate they
>   way they print out the entire previous message and then add
>   "thanks" at the bottom as their answer. I totally support you
>   request and wanted you to know that. I for one lately when I see,
>   "M. Savad" I click on it and drag it to the trash unread. Then
>   "dump the trash" often. ...  Others have dropped me notes, too,
>   saying they agreed, that   they'd written to Mike and gotten flames back
>   from him. He's a wee bit defensive, methinks.
> 
> Albert
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


ok i think this is getting a wee bit out of hand, alot of you are
righting me and agreeing with me, and we're all agreed that the people
who keep posting about this topic is a bit hyper sensitive to this
little thing. it's not a big deal. if you want to delete fine, miss out
on the wisdom that i'm dispensing. i flamed the people who wrote to me,
because they type it out in such a way, that i had too. it's not like
i'm cursing everyone out, sending out subjects that don't relate
anything to glass (like this one), or anything like that. your saying
that i'm lazy for not deleting lines, i say your lazy for not pushing
scroll down. basically it's scroll, read, delete, not very hard. and
besides i'm not the only one who does this. and by the way, i'm not
going to change either, why should i?

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
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From owner-glass Fri Oct 11 17:36:57 1996
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From: "H. Taylor Buckner" <taylor_buckner@sympatico.ca>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Warner Crivellaro problems
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 1996 20:36:03 -0400
Message-ID: <199610120036.UAA04324@smtp1.sympatico.ca>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

        I, too, am running out of patience with the people at W-C.  On Aug
16 I placed orders with both Delphi and Warner Crivellaro.  The Delphi order
arrived within 7 - 10 days.  Two subsequent orders to Delphi have been
filled promptly.  After the middle of Sept. when the order from W-C had not
arrived, I called to see what the problem was.  I was told that the came
bender I'd ordered had been on back order but was in that day, the rest of
my order (patterns) was ready and that the parcel would be going out the
next day.  I called AGAIN on Oct 9 to find out that, yes the came benders
were indeed in but that several of my patterns were on back order and would
I like to wait until the whole order was together before they sent it?  I am
to say the least underwhelmed  by these folks and yes, I'm willing to pay
the extra that Delphi charges for the assurance that I will get what I order
in reasonable time.  And, to reassure Mike Peck and other retailers, I do
give my local supplier (in my case local means 85 kilometres away) enough
business that he recently started giving me a significant discount. Jennifer

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From owner-glass Fri Oct 11 19:16:18 1996
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From: Kay Allen <fullspec@scv.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Mike Savad
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 1996 19:14:40 -0700
Message-ID: <1.5.4.32.19961012021440.006a6b3c@mail.scv.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

NOT GLASS RELATED

Hello all,

I would like to pitch my two cents in regarding  whats going on with this
list and Mike Savad.

It's not easy to do but a very important lesson to learn in life is that all
people are DIFFERENT.
.  We cannot expect everyone to do as we do.  We will always be disappointed.

I understand the frustration of those that wish to archive the list
responses but please remember that Mike is usually the first one to jump in
and reply to someone's question.  I tend to focus on this part of his
personality rather than on his lack of typing or editing skills.

Kay Allen

 




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From owner-glass Fri Oct 11 20:09:50 1996
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From: Kay Allen <fullspec@scv.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Pricing a Beveled Window
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 1996 20:08:09 -0700
Message-ID: <1.5.4.32.19961012030809.00667bb4@mail.scv.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


From owner-glass Fri Oct 11 20:25:30 1996
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From: "KARL L. PREISACH" <karlp@cetlink.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: CAUTION!!  NOT GLASS RELATED
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 1996 23:18:06 -0400
Message-ID: <199610120322.XAA06822@moltar.cetlink.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hello everyone,
     I  noticed from some of the postings that a few people are having
problems with crashes, gibberish, etc. Since I personally have had no
problems, might I humbly suggest using Microsoft Mail & News. As I am sure
most of you know, this software is free form MS homepage along with
Internet Explorer 3.0. No problems with either one.

Just my 2 cents,
Karl
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From owner-glass Fri Oct 11 20:27:58 1996
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X-Path: primeline.com!vgplugs
From: April Paine <vgplugs@primeline.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: W C Problems?
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 1996 23:32:21 -0700
Message-ID: <1996Oct11.163221.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Victorian Greenhouse & Stained Glass
Precedence: bulk

Jerri M Roey wrote:
     Their catalog says to notify the shipper re: damages, but my local 
UPSer tells me that UPS will tell me to notify the company. WC says they 
don't send replacements until the receive the damaged items.  UPS also 
said they may not want to return broken glass. (I know how UPS treats 
things: I clerked for them in college, many years ago.  I also married 
one of them.)
> Jerri


Hi Jerri, Mike and ...Glass, Inc.


This is my opinion. Hope it helps.
  
1. Never let UPS leave until you check the package.  If something is 
damaged request a inspection report for damaged delivered goods.  They 
may call it something else in different areas but you get the idea.

2. If they say there is no such report refuse to sign for it and ask for 
their supervisor's name and number. (Everyone should know this drill)
Don't except the shipment. 

3. Call the supervisor make a complaint back it up in writing. Send a fax 
to ... Glass Inc, request timely replacement attach copies of damage 
report and your complaint to UPS.  Follow with phone conversation.  

4. If you don't receive response in 2-4 weeks fax again your request and 
notice of plans to file with the Better Business Bureau.  Follow up with 
phone.

5. No response. File a complaint with BBB let them resolve it.  In the 
future if it takes this long to get a catalog a red flag should go off.

6.  If you plan to do more than $100 or what you are willing to lose to a 
mailorder business check them out call BBB in there area ask if they have 
resolved or unresolved claims. (I've went so far as to call the local 
police department to verify a questionable business)

7. Don't do business with mailorder catalogs that say they are not 
responsible for damaged goods.  The nature of their business (mailorder)
is for you to get undamaged goods.  It is the responsibility of the ... 
Glass, Inc. to establish a responsible relationship with their deliverer.

8. It is a poor business practice to do otherwise.  They have lost 
potential customers.  It is a small amount of money to fix a problem
like a broken piece of glass. It costs a lot of money to fix a bad 
reputation. 

9. The money spent fixing "broken glass" generates more sells ie..  
Delphi. 

10. There is nothing like being able to look at your glass in person with 
someone you enjoy seeing.  It maybe worth more than you know.

                                                          April
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From owner-glass Fri Oct 11 20:36:05 1996
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Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6)
	id m0vBura-0001Ada; Fri, 11 Oct 96 20:35 PDT
X-Path: nz1.netzone.com!lorley
From: "Lorley L. Oneyear" <lorley@netzone.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: W/C
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 1996 20:36:25 -0600
Message-ID: <2.2.32.19961012023625.0068c0fc@mail.netzone.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi Jeri.

I too am under whelmed w/ Warner Crivellero.. I placed an order and received
a booklet that I did not order.  I called customer service before 6 am on a
Saturday and left a message for a return call.  No one called back.  I
called  Monday morning and did get through to a rep and was told they don't
have customer service on the weekend. Their phone message did not state
this, however. It took almost 3 weeks but I did get the correct booklet in
the mail.

Another thing.. they were out of stock for one of my items..I thought it
would be back ordered, but she said I would actually have to reorder the
item. Well.. I did.. I ordered it from Delphi...

Just my observation.. Lorley

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From owner-glass Fri Oct 11 21:15:17 1996
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Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6)
	id m0vBvTQ-0000sxa; Fri, 11 Oct 96 21:14 PDT
X-Path: tpgi.com.au!llutz
From: llutz <llutz@tpgi.com.au>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Warner Crivellaro problems
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 1996 14:21:16 +1100
Message-ID: <1996Oct13.12116.0>
References: <<199610120036.UAA04324@smtp1.sympatico.ca>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

H. Taylor Buckner wrote:
> 
>         I, too, am running out of patience with the people at W-C.  On Aug
> 16 I placed orders with both Delphi and Warner Crivellaro.  The Delphi order
> arrived within 7 - 10 days. 
I'm glad I chose to order from Delphi- it reached me in inland Australia
in 10 days and the 2 boxes were in perfect condition. I would find it
very difficult to deal with W-C. Having to phone anyone about an order
would drive the cost up too much- (we can't use your freecall numbers
from Australia). I know where I will continue to order from.
Larry from Minore

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From owner-glass Fri Oct 11 21:28:21 1996
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X-Path: juno.com!jroey
From: jroey@juno.com (Jerri M Roey)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Warner Crivellaro Problems?
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 1996 23:44:54 EDT
Message-ID: <1996Oct12.34454.0>
References: <<1996Oct11.1561.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


On Fri, 11 Oct 1996 15:06:01 +0000 mike  peck
<summit-stained-glass@worldnet.att.net> writes:

regarding my experiences, obviously i don't do any business with the
>catalogues, but i know the reputable wholesalers will take merchandise 
>back.
>however, there are some "special" arrangements on small shipments of 
>glass
>where they will send up to four sheets, cut in half (about 24"x24") in 
>a box
>at your risk.  and i ask for such shipments all the time and have 
>never
>received a single broken sheet.  



Hi Mike,

	Thanks for your comments.  Maybe I'm just unlucky, but it seems
like I've had at least one piece of glass broken with every order, even
though they were packed very well.  I've had some breakage that I didn't
call about because I could still use the glass as I had planned.  I had
one box of 12 sheetes that looked like it'd been dropped off a 10 story
building, but the pieces in the middle were fine.  The outer six sheets
must have been in 500 pieces and a lot of crumbs.  Delphi was great about
it.

	I guess I'll stick with the "good guys".  And YES I plan to
support my local shop.  I'm so afraid they won't make it, I want to do
all I can to help.  I've already met one of the owners and told him I
want to take all his classes.  He was great and gave me my first lesson
in reinforcing while we stood there talking (something I want to learn
about).  I've only had one class in copper foil, and that was several
years ago.  If they don't hurry it up, I'm going to go down and help them
get the store in order (just kidding).  It's just a shell of a store
right now, and they're working on getting their shelve's built.  The
husband is doing most of the work himself.

	Jerri





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From owner-glass Sat Oct 12 07:02:59 1996
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Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6)
	id m0vC4eJ-0000Mqa; Sat, 12 Oct 96 07:02 PDT
X-Path: voyager.net!delphigl
From: Stephanie Braman <delphigl@voyager.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: What's this group coming to?
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 1996 10:02:34 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <199610121402.KAA26119@vixa.voyager.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I am really becoming very distressed at the lack of courtesy within our
group of late.  The verbal sparring and gutter-sniping has really become too
much.  What has happened to everyone?  The majority of the posts lately
haven't been related to glass and when the topic is glass, individuals who
have generally lurked come out swinging.  Sure isn't very productive and
leaves a bad taste in one's mouth. 

Until the past several weeks, I would open up my mail with anticipation and
now it's just dread.  This isn't fun or interesting anymore.  Can't we
lighten up and starting sharing glass questions and ideas again?

Stephanie

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From owner-glass Sat Oct 12 07:07:47 1996
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Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6)
	id m0vC4iy-0000Qra; Sat, 12 Oct 96 07:07 PDT
X-Path: mail.bcpl.lib.md.us!panthony
From: "last name: Anthony" <panthony@mail.bcpl.lib.md.us>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Warner Crivellaro Problems?misaddressed
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 1996 10:05:12 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct12.6512.0>
References: <<1996Oct12.34454.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Jerri M Roey wrote:
> 
> On Fri, 11 Oct 1996 15:06:01 +0000 mike  peck
> <summit-stained-glass@worldnet.att.net> writes:
> 
> regarding my experiences, obviously i don't do any business with the
> >catalogues, but i know the reputable wholesalers will take merchandise
> >back.
> >however, there are some "special" arrangements on small shipments of
> >glass
> >where they will send up to four sheets, cut in half (about 24"x24") in
> >a box
> >at your risk.  and i ask for such shipments all the time and have
> >never
> >received a single broken sheet.
> 
> Hi Mike,
> 
>         Thanks for your comments.  Maybe I'm just unlucky, but it seems
> like I've had at least one piece of glass broken with every order, even
> though they were packed very well.  I've had some breakage that I didn't
> call about because I could still use the glass as I had planned.  I had
> one box of 12 sheetes that looked like it'd been dropped off a 10 story
> building, but the pieces in the middle were fine.  The outer six sheets
> must have been in 500 pieces and a lot of crumbs.  Delphi was great about
> it.
> 
>         I guess I'll stick with the "good guys".  And YES I plan to
> support my local shop.  I'm so afraid they won't make it, I want to do
> all I can to help.  I've already met one of the owners and told him I
> want to take all his classes.  He was great and gave me my first lesson
> in reinforcing while we stood there talking (something I want to learn
> about).  I've only had one class in copper foil, and that was several
> years ago.  If they don't hurry it up, I'm going to go down and help them
> get the store in order (just kidding).  It's just a shell of a store
> right now, and they're working on getting their shelve's built.  The
> husband is doing most of the work himself.
> 
>         Jerri
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
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From owner-glass Sat Oct 12 12:08:25 1996
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	id m0vC9Pv-0000hVa; Sat, 12 Oct 96 12:08 PDT
X-Path: CompuServe.COM!70544.3642
From: "Albert Lewis [IGGA]" <70544.3642@CompuServe.COM>
To: BlindCopyReceiver:;@compuserve,.com
Subject: IGGA ONLINE 10/12/96
Date: 12 Oct 96 15:05:49 EDT
Message-ID: <1996Oct12.19549.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


----------------------------------------------------------------- IGGA Online
News Memo!                         October 12, 1996
-----------------------------------------------------------------
    Random glass info passed along after being compiled by the
            International Guild of Glass Artists, Inc.
-----------------------------------------------------------------

Two new web sites of interest

Perhaps you're interested in the restoration of stained glass? Then you should
check out Julie Sloan's site at http://www.jlsloan.com She showcases
restoration work  done at  St. Columba's in Newport, Rhode Island;  at Judson
Memorial Church in New York; and at Grace Church in that city.
    She  includes a  large feature on the glass work of Frank Lloyd Wright --
photographs are being added to the site at the moment, so it's going  to get
even richer -- and the Owner's Manual of Stained Glass Conservation  for free
downloading.   Pass it along to those responsible for  your local  churches  and
public  buildings  that include glass. It's packed with useful information.

Art in  Architecture Press'  new site  features  her  award-winning book,
"Conservation  of Stained  Glass in  America," as well as the celebratory 125th
anniversary edition,  "Kunst  aus  Glas  in  der Architektur"  (that's  "Glass
Art  in  Architecture")  from  Derix Studios; it  features tons  of photographs
of stunning  work  from around the  world. They've  also got  Otto Rigan's
"Palace Doors of Abu Dhabi," the sumptuous recounting of the design and
installation of Hubbel's  fantastic work in Saudi Arabia.  Art in Architecture's
site is at http://www.aiap.com

================================================================= Do you like
receiving this online news memo?

  Don't do anything; we'll send it to you whenever we get around to it, which
might be fairly often. Or not. It depends on how busy the
               Exec. Dir., Albert Lewis, might be that day or week.

You don't like it?
                              If this is addressed to you DIRECTLY,
                          simply reply to 70544.3642@compuserve.com
                    saying UNSUBSCRIBE in the text of your message.
              If you receive it via a NEWSGROUP with a glass focus,
               you'll have to UNSUBSCRIBE from the newsgroup, alas.

   If you're receiving TWO copies, that's because you get it direct
           at your email address AND via the NEWSGROUP. Let us know
   in a note to 70544.3642@compuserve.com and we'll set the program
                                   to eliminate the duplicate copy.
=================================================================

 Our Mission: To facilitate communication among glass artists, to
   encourage education and promote excellence in the glass arts.
           __________________________________________
           International Guild of Glass Artists, Inc.
           Tonetta Lake Road  ***   Brewster NY 10509
           (914) 278-2152 [msg]   Fax: (914) 278-2481
           __________________________________________
           Web site: http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/
           Membership info: 70544.3642@compuserve.com

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From owner-glass Sat Oct 12 12:25:55 1996
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Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6)
	id m0vC9gm-0000vRa; Sat, 12 Oct 96 12:25 PDT
X-Path: usaor.net!madglass
From: madglass@usaor.net (Mary Ann Dulemba)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: What's this group coming to?
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 1996 15:22:22 -0400
Message-ID: <199610121928.PAA25019@gate.usaor.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Bravo Stephanie!

I must agree.  As one of the new 'lurkers' to this newsgroup. 

>I am really becoming very distressed at the lack of courtesy within our
>group of late.  The verbal sparring and gutter-sniping has really become too
>much.  <snip>

It makes a newcomer to the group sit back and wonder if anything they have
to add will not be a  *good enough*  addition, solution or helpful hint for
everyone.  Remarks lead to me believe only a few have all the right answers.
I have often thought about unsubscribing.  

Yes, I have found interesting little tidbits and helpful hints, but I must
agree with Stephanie.  In fact, Stephanie was the one who introduced me to
this group and I was pleased with the comments, suggestions and tidbits. 

Thanks for letting me vent and to the many of who you have taken the time to
help someone or offer assistance, even the occasional pat on the back, I
applaud you. 
--
Registered ICC User
check out http://www.usefulware.com/~jfoltz


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From owner-glass Sat Oct 12 13:14:28 1996
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X-Path: juno.com!jroey
From: jroey@juno.com (Jerri M Roey)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: W C Problems?
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 1996 16:13:47 EDT
Message-ID: <1996Oct12.201347.0>
References: <<1996Oct11.163221.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


>1. Never let UPS leave until you check the package.  If something is 
>damaged request a inspection report for damaged delivered goods.  They 
>
>may call it something else in different areas but you get the idea.
>
>2. If they say there is no such report refuse to sign for it and ask 
>for 
>their supervisor's name and number. (Everyone should know this drill)
>Don't acccept the shipment. 



Hi April,

	The only problem I see with this is that where I live, UPS does
not require a signature.  They do require signatures for apartments and
businesses, but not in residential areas where they feel it's safe to
leave a package.  I usually am not home, and find a UPS package at my
door.  My driver tells me that they will not stand and wait for you to
inspect a package unless the package is apparently damaged.  If there's
damage, they'll tell you to contact the shipper. Also, the shipper is
UPS's customer, not the recipient.  UPS replaces the loss to the shipper,
not the recipient.  I'm not worried about UPS.  They're a great company
and very customer oriented.  I really just wanted to hear about anyone's
experience returning broken glass to WC.  It sounds like a big pain, but
maybe it's not, AND yes I realize waiting 5 months for a catalog should
have sent up a red flag.  It did, but not having access to shops locally,
I have to do everything via mail order, and I was willing to risk it.  WC
does carry a lot of things I haven't seen in any other catalogs.  

Jerri     
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From owner-glass Sat Oct 12 14:32:03 1996
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Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6)
	id m0vCBes-0000q7a; Sat, 12 Oct 96 14:31 PDT
X-Path: lodz.pdi.net!michu-g
From: "=?Windows-1250?Q?Grzegorz_Gier=B3owski?=" <michu-g@lodz.pdi.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: Brass Came: Shine on or off?
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 1996 01:24:26 +0100
Message-ID: <199610122128.WAA10492@gryzmak.lodz.pdi.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Lately we got in for repair German-made front door triple glazed panel =
/means 3 layers of glass
plus SG done in foil and lead-heavy as hell/.It was sealed with butyl =
and tiocol rubbers.
Sealants lost their sealing properties due to flood.Not much damage to =
SG seen yet due
probably to absorbent used in inside alu distance frames.What is visible =
is rainbowy fog
on the inside of front float glass which side-effect is considered  as =
damage by client
and  curiously beautifull adornment by us 'couse it resembles iri effect =
done on purpose
by some glass-makers.If this is not removable we'll have a patent for =
home-iridising.
Probably it'll go off,only a matter of proper chemical-on the other hand =
I wonder how come
it developed.Got to delay delivery much to have chance to experiment =
more.
Greg

----------
> From: mike  peck <summit-stained-glass@worldnet.att.net>
> To: glass@bungi.com
> Subject: Re: Brass Came: Shine on or off?
> Date: 11 pa=9Fdziernika 1996 17:09
>=20
>=20
> >
>   By triple glazing doors, does this stop=20
> >the possibility of damage to the leadlight (I do realise people's =
safety=20
> >come first, but I hate to see a beautiful panel damaged).  Doors take =
a=20
> >bit of a pounding and sometimes result in a crack in the leadlight =
panel=20
> >here or there.
>=20
> the triple glazed units that we have put together have been VERY =
rugged to
> abuse so it certainly reduces the amount of repairs we get calls for.  =
but
> you know, the oldest triple glazed units that are out there are =
probably
> only ten years old at best.  so, already, we have seen that some seals =
have
> failed allowing the argon or nitrogen to escape and the unit fills =
with
> condensate every time the humidity goes up, and many of the brassy =
ones are
> tarnishing out very badly.   so now we sandwich the unit between =
tempered
> plate glass, then line the perimeter with a dessicated band to soak up =
any
> moisture, then seal it up with butyl rubber.  i know the seals that we =
use
> today are much more durable than those we used only a few years ago, =
but
> sooner or later the butyl rubber will deteriorate and the dessicant =
will
> become saturated, then the unit will fill with condensate, etc.
>=20
> most of the residential jobs we get will have some double glazed =
window in
> place (two sheets of clear plate sealed with dessicant) and we work =
with
> whatever mouldings the trim man left us to mount a leaded window on =
the
> interior of the home.  we use clips to mount the leaded window so it =
will be
> removable for cleaning, etc.  from the inside of the home, the leaded =
window
> will be in full brilliance, but from the outside of the home, the =
leaded
> window seems very subdued.  it's a trade off, but if (or when!) the =
seal
> fails on the glazed window, the plate glass fogs up and there is no =
damage
> to the leaded window, it's much cheaper to repair, etc.
>=20
> =20
> >I also can understand, what the customer wants....  The reason I was=20
> >going to put it into my door was for strength and secutiry, but I =
love=20
> >the look of lead and the way it weathers over time.  I'll just design =
a=20
> >panel that will lend itself to lots of reinforcement.  I might even =
think=20
> >of double glazing.
> >
> >Andrea
>=20
> in a commercial setting, i would encourage you to look at triple =
glazing
> simply for the strength and safety.  but, residential is not as prone =
to
> abuse, so a pattern affording good reinforcement might be all that is
> necessary.  if you want to look at triple glazing, then i am NOT an =
advocate
> of sealing the unit up (per our local codes) rather i think a sandwich
> between tempered plate with some kind of venting top and bottom might =
be
> more durable.  even double glazed should be vented.
>=20
> hope this helps,  any other comments on this one?
>=20
> Mike Peck
>=20
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
----
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From owner-glass Sat Oct 12 14:44:29 1996
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6)
	id m0vCBqt-0000rra; Sat, 12 Oct 96 14:44 PDT
X-Path: cetlink.net!karlp
From: "KARL L. PREISACH" <karlp@cetlink.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: First "Large" Panel
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 1996 17:40:05 -0400
Message-ID: <199610122144.RAA25617@moltar.cetlink.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hello Everyone,
     I am starting my first project of any size and could use some advice
as to it's construction. The finished size is 27" square. Looks to contain
app. 100 to 125 pieces. It is a copper foiled panel,and I plan to frame it
when done. As to questions;
     1) Should the panel be reinforced? If so, with rods or that flat
flexible stuff on a roll that goes between the pieces?
     2) If I use the flat stuff, does it go around every piece or just in
some areas?
     3) As to framing; should I use the "U" shaped framing stock or is
standard framing with glazier points strong enough?
     4) The panel will be hung on a white painted wall with two recessed
"eyeball" ceiling spotlights shining on it. Should there be any
consideration made as to glass color? That is, should I use relatively
light colored glass so that the light reflects off the wall or does it
matter?
     5) What would be the best way to hang it? A small cable like a
conventional picture or a chain that would be visible?
     I realize that this a lot if information to ask, but I know of no
better source. 
Many TIA
Karl
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From owner-glass Sat Oct 12 15:41:48 1996
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Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6)
	id m0vCCkP-000165a; Sat, 12 Oct 96 15:41 PDT
X-Path: calhoun.lakes.com!oddjob
From: "Edward W. Reitmann" <oddjob@calhoun.lakes.com>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: RE: Another Stove Black Source
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 1996 17:39:29 -0500
Message-ID: <1996Oct12.123929.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I was able to pick up Stove Black at my local "True Value Hardware =
Store".  Manufactured by MEECO, Seattle Washington..1-800-426-9393 , Red =
Devil Black Stove and Iron Polish. 8 oz.bottle, $ 3.39. The lable claims =
" it is for use on stoves and cast iron. Non-toxic water based =
combination of high quality waxes and black pigment.Buffed to a high =
luster it adds life and beauty to surfaces while protecting against rust =
and corrosion."
I have yet to try it but will report when I do.
Being non-toxic and water soluble would be a plus over the current =
comercial black patina.
There seems to be a lot of interest in this subject. I am curious to =
know if manufacturers "here across the pond" as Toby says, will wonder =
why there is all of a sudden a demand for a product that is basically =
for use on items that are not being used anymore by the average =
household.( ie: cast iron cookware and wood stoves <G>.
Sue Reitmann
Artistry In Glass
Shorewood, MN
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From owner-glass Sat Oct 12 16:35:08 1996
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From: Stephanie Braman <delphigl@voyager.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Fireplace Screens
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 1996 19:34:34 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <199610122334.TAA03494@vixa.voyager.net>
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Precedence: bulk

Lately, I have been receiving many inquiries about fireplace screens.  Does
anyone have any idea what the standard dimensions of the 3 pieces would be?  
There are several beautiful examples in a new book "Stained Glass Basics" by
Chris Rich with my personal favorite being a Victorian design done with
clear textures, teal blues and purples.  I especially liked the creative use
of a bevel cluster in this design.  Instead of the cluster being closely
grouped it has been spread out into the design in a "burst" type of pattern.
It's very lovely.

Thanks for any assistance.
Stephanie

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From owner-glass Sat Oct 12 16:52:21 1996
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Mike Savad
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@mail.nildram.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 1996 23:40:04 +0000
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To Kay Allen
You wrote: ... Mike Savad is usually the first one to jump in....

Yes you are absolutely dead right, a point I have put on record many 
times. He is quite magnificent in that respect. But "even" the great 
minds must be "tamed" on the odd occasion.....
It's precisely BECAUSE I don't wish people to miss his message, that 
I am pleading with him to help us focussing...
Elisabeth 'n Toby
----
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From owner-glass Sat Oct 12 16:52:23 1996
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Warner Crivellaro Problems?
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@mail.nildram.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 1996 23:40:04 +0000
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To Glass Crafters and general Info:

You wrote: ...Why is Cataloger responsible for free replacement of 
glass, when it is broken in shipment? ....

Simple, my friend, .... and not wishing to make "heavy weather" out 
of this issue: If "seller" appoints "shipper", then they are jointly 
responsible for shipment until  it has been accepted by "buyer" 
as received in tact. THEY should argue it out between them (e.g. 
badly packed by "seller", carelessly shipped by "shipper" etc, etc). 
"Buyer" should have and DOES have redress, and should not even have 
to get involved.

But until "buyer" has received goods and received them in tact, HE is 
NOT responsible for what happens until the moment he unpacks goods 
and inspects them.
Hence, your analogy of handing something over in a shop - where buyer 
has had the opportunity of inspecting goods before accepting them - 
is not valid.
Perhaps you might like to check up on your International Shipping 
Regulations, which is acceptable standard world-wide.....
Elisabeth 'n Toby
----
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From owner-glass Sat Oct 12 16:52:23 1996
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Infinite loop?
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Date: Sat, 12 Oct 1996 23:40:04 +0000
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 Dear Mike (Savad),
Go and have a nice, refreshing,  c-o-o-o-l  beer;
We all love you really....
You have so much to contribute; I am often impressed by your sharp 
and comprehensive guidance.
But could you edit just a tiny, little, weeny bit....
Just a tiny touch;   ... like "top and tail" vegetables (like getting 
rid of too many titles and too many signatures)   ;-)
Elisabeth 'n Toby
----
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From owner-glass Sat Oct 12 17:44:03 1996
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Brass Came
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Date: Sun, 13 Oct 1996 01:16:42 +0000
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From:          "M. Savad" <morn@mars.superlink.net>
To:            glass@bungi.com
Subject:       Re: Brass Came
Date:          Wed, 09 Oct 1996 20:31:57 -0400
Reply-to:      glass@bungi.com

Toby wrote:
> 
> Mike to Len : Agree with you Mike! To "Joe Public" Brass Equals
> Class, he thinks, without the faintest idea of what traditional
> stained glass is all about.
> 
> Making solder "green" to match brass (...when green), your e-mail
> addressed to April:
> "verre de gree" (spelling?) - try: verre de gris
> Elisabeth 'n Toby

i was close...:) but you knew what i was talking about at least.

---Mike Savad

Yes Mike, You were very close. I myself have been "corrected" by 
Mary. The term should be verdigris - one word -, and apparently it 
is a term referring to the greenish patina on copper, brass or 
bronze. 
The oracle has spoken, and I am quite happy to stand corrected.
Keep smiling
Elisabeth 'n Toby

----
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http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
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From owner-glass Sat Oct 12 17:54:18 1996
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From: ScottSGN@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: [WARNING: LONG POST] Re: photographing glass
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 1996 20:52:45 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct12.165245.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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I noticed a question about photographing stained glass a couple of days ago.
Here's a column that Randy Wardell wrote for an issue of Stained Glass News
that was published last April. Hope you find it useful:

***********************************
Spring is here (or at least should be by the time you read this) and it's a
great time to dust off the camera and take some pictures. Photographs, that
is, of your finished glass projects. I don't know how many times I've heard
someone say "I did a beautiful stained glass (fill in any subject matter
here) a couple of years ago but I didn't take a picture of it to show you."
(Truth is, I've heard myself say that.) Barb from Oregon asks: "I have a good
35mm camera with focus and light adjustments. Would it be best to take the
picture (of a panel) in an east window after the sun has passed over? Do I
use a flash? Any advice would be appreciated." And Harold from California
says "I am having problems taking pictures that show true colors. I need an
article on this." Thanks for the questions and the suggestion for the
article.

I have been taking photographs of stained glass for more than 18 years. Some
of the images are very impressive with dramatic lighting and saturated colors
and some, quite frankly, are odoriferous and that is the nature of the beast.
Taking good photographs of stained glass is difficult and involves a proper
setup, perfect lighting (either natural or artificial or both), the right
equipment and film, and a bit (or a lot) of luck. The fact is, Barb, there is
no easy answer for the "best way" and as for Harold's achieving "true
colors," that's a doctoral thesis in itself. There are some basics that we
can make sure are in place and some tips and tricks to try.

First, equipment. Barb has a 35mm camera with manual controls and that can be
a big help. However, you can get excellent results with one of the fully
automatic "point and shoot" cameras as well. Depending on the subject matter,
you may need supplemental lighting. I like to use tungsten lights which are
standard bulb type lights (as opposed to flash or professional strobe
lights). I prefer the tungsten lights because I feel they let me see my
lighting setup a little better. You can purchase a metal cone & socket lamp
with a spring clip mount at most department stores, but you will need to go
to a photography supply shop to get the special "tungsten blue-photo bulbs."
 You will also need a "scrim," which is simply a backdrop on a movable frame.
A bed sheet hung from a makeshift frame can work for this. When photographing
windows, especially if they contain bevels, you will need a large silk plant
(or a fake Christmas tree in a pinch). Finally, I want to recommend a tripod.
It will make the setup process a lot easier and more reliable. If you have a
manual 35mm camera that can be set for long exposures, it is essential.

So let's set up a typical photographic scenario. You have installed a new
entry door panel and sidelight combination. The panels contain some color in
the borders, clear textures in the background and a bevel cluster in the
center. The entry faces east and has a porch roof overhang that partially
shades the top part of the windows. This photograph can be set up in two
different ways-from the inside using natural light and from the outside at
dusk using tungsten lights inside.

First, take the photograph from the inside of the house. Set your camera on a
tripod and frame the shot, centering the entire entryway or perhaps even
include a bit of the house interior if possible to give a feeling of how the
stained glass fits into its environment. Now here's a major tip: Look
carefully through the lens and observe every little thing. Look for glare or
hot spots, look for harsh shadows (especially shadows from objects that are
not in the photo), check that the light is even across the glass (subject)
and on the frame or any other items you may want to include in the
photograph. Decide if you need any supplemental lighting. Usually, you will
need at least one fill light above and to one side of the camera. This will
give definition to interior details (the door, frame etc.) and avoid making
the stained glass look as if it's installed in a black hole. Add the tungsten
lights and look through the lens again to check for glare. Move the light
until the glare disappears.

Now look through the lens and then through the window panels and observe what
is on the other side. If you have bevels and clear textures, chances are they
are almost flat looking with no bevel edge definition and little texture.
Here's where the silk plant comes in. Place the plant about 2 or 3 feet from
the window on the outside. Position it so it's centered in the window, while
looking through the lensx are you sensing a prevailing theme here? You will
notice that the plant allows the bevel and texture to bend and break the
light and gives them a frame of reference. (This is a photographic trade
secret-use it often.) With luck, it will be a partly cloudy day, so I can
take photos both with full sun and with no direct sun. If it's overcast, you
could add some lights or if it's not cloudy at all, you just have to wait
until the sun has moved past the window completely. The idea is to take
photos in all these conditions because you never know for sure which one will
be the "keeper."

The second setup will be from the outside at dusk (or even after dark)
looking toward the entryway. Set up the camera and tripod, and frame the
photograph the way you want it. Be sure to look through the lens and through
the glass window to see what is beyond the door. Very often there will be
something undesirable (for the photo) that can be moved or covered up, like a
painting on the wall or some dark colored furniture. Move these items or use
the bed sheet you brought to cover up and kill this distraction. Now add your
tungsten lights. Another tip: don't shine the lights at the window, shine
them on the objects just behind the window. The wall, the ceiling or if these
are too far away, you will need to set up the scrim we talked about earlier.
Finally place the silk plant behind the window to give it a frame of
reference and definition.

To sum up: take lots of pictures. If you have a manual camera, use the light
meter to get an average reading and "bracket" your shots on either side of
this average. (Take at least two photos with slower exposures, one at the
average setting and two at faster exposures.) If you have an automatic
camera, turn off the flash and take a photo. Then turn the flash on and cover
the flash with your finger (or put some black tape over it) to prevent it
from putting glare on the glass. By turning on the flash, you fool the
automatic camera into thinking it is in a low light situation and it adjusts
the exposure a little bit slower. If you have a manual focus camera, focus
often and always re-focus just before you shoot. And now, at last, I will
answer Harold's "true colors" question. You are probably using the wrong type
of film for the light you are in (daylight vs. tungsten film). You may need
to use some color correcting filters or a different film. Color problems can
be confusing and I would suggest that you take your photos to a pro-camera
shop and get some individual advice.

I hope this helps. Please do always take photos of your work. However they
turn out, they're better than nothing. 

Until next timex

(c) 1996 Stained Glass News
************************************

Scott
Stained Glass News
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From owner-glass Sat Oct 12 18:07:12 1996
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: W C Problems?
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@mail.nildram.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 1996 23:40:04 +0000
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April Payne on 11 Oct.: Your 10 Point Rules on Damaged Goods:

Well said April!!!
Don't forget that there is also a point of Law, that many ordinary 
consumers  are oblivious of.   As a rule, ordering from mail order 
catalogue houses, it is THEY who contract shipper and insurance 
coverage; it's THEIR responsibility to ensure that the goods are 
received by you in tact AND HASSLE-FREE. If  YOU are incurring costs 
for handling, returning and communicating about damaged goods, then 
you are entitled to financial recompense from the SELLER.
Make sure that you are paying for "free delivered address", i.e. you 
have paid the SELEER for freight, insurance and costs. The Seller 
then contracts HIS shipper, HIS insurers and any subsequent damage 
arguement should be between Seller and HIS contractors and NOT between 
you  & Shipper, you & Insurer and  you & Seller.
So don't allow yourself to get browbeaten and intimidated by some 
bu&88%sh+=A3$* !!! However, Sellers all too often try and "pass the 
Buck" and often play on peoples' ignorance.
End your purchase orders to these high & mighty Mail Order Houses 
with a phrase (in writing) something like "Failure to replace damaged 
goods within 7 working days without extra costs of any kind to 
ourselves, directly 
or indirectly,, will automatically result in Court Proceedings being 
taken against you".   Something outrageous. If nothing else, it will 
certainly make them sit up and take notice and be evvvver so careful 
how they handle you....  and write it in LARGE RED LETTERS.
YOU are the customer, after all - so call the tune Don't be afraid to 
call a spade a shovel!
Elisabeth 'n Toby. 
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North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
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From owner-glass Sat Oct 12 18:42:02 1996
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: RE: Another Stove Black Source
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@mail.nildram.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 1996 02:13:38 +0000
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Sue Reitman: Another black stove polish source.....

<I have yet to try it but will report when I do
Sue, I will be inntrigued to hear your report.....
<. I am curious to know if manufacturers "here across the pond" as Toby says
, will wonder why there is all of a sudden a demand for a product 
that is basically for use on items that are not being used anymore by 
the average household.( ie: cast iron cookware and wood stoves <G>.

Yes, Sue : .... and so WHAT... Let's keep the Manufacturers on their 
toes.... I buy my "stove black polish" from an old market town 
hardware shop that has been established for over 150 years. They too 
are quite puzzled why the sudden demand in old black stove polish, 
when I appear to buy 20 -30 tubes for my students. I just smile 
sweetly and say something like - "ain't Life funny and strange", pays 
,me money, get my tubes wrapped and depart wickedly with  a silly grin
on my face.....
They are doing a grand job in keeping up with me.....
Don't worry, it's not YOUR job informing the manufacturers of what 
you want; it's THEIR job supplying what you want to buy......:-) 
Let's keep them guessing!!
The Wicked Witch from the Wicked Forest of Europe
Elisabeth 'n Toby (who stirs the cauldron...)
  
----
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North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
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From owner-glass Sat Oct 12 18:42:03 1996
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: software evaluation
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@mail.nildram.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 1996 02:13:38 +0000
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From:          mdcglas@rmplc.co.uk (mdc glasgow)
To:            glass@bungi.com
Subject:       Re: software evaluation
Date:          Fri, 4 Oct 1996 08:43:40 +0100
Reply-to:      glass@bungi.com

Elizabeth wrote

..... <snip>

>I'll be happy to share my evaluation experiences with those of you
>interested. Still have all my notes and correspondence with them.
>On or off the Group...
>Elisabeth 'n Toby

I for one would be very interested in reading your evaluation of the
software in my dual roles as a computer support person {I wonder if I could
convince my boss that this software could be used for CAD in schools
mmm.... (g) } and glass artist

anything you could forward would be great

Thanks

Phil


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Yes Phil,
Still waiting for your input. Would be quite happy to help, bu I too 
need to rationalize on time spent between earning a living anbd time 
answering questions. Hence would welcome focussed questions that I 
could get my teeth around...   Fire ahead...
Elisabeth 'n Toby.
----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
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From owner-glass Sat Oct 12 20:05:44 1996
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From: llutz <llutz@tpgi.com.au>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Fireplace Screens
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 1996 13:02:06 +1100
Message-ID: <1996Oct14.026.0>
References: <<199610122334.TAA03494@vixa.voyager.net>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Stephanie Braman wrote:
> 
> Lately, I have been receiving many inquiries about fireplace screens.  Does
> anyone have any idea what the standard dimensions of the 3 pieces would be?
>From what I have seen- fireplace sizes vary a lot- I'm sure there are
some reasonably standard screen sizes- However, I feel that if you put
labour into a project like this, aim for something that suits the
individual fireplace and don't worry if it isn't a standard size. I
couldn't have one here- the cats wouldn't have their place to stretch
out and stay warm.
Larry from Minore

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From owner-glass Sat Oct 12 20:06:05 1996
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From: Phil Taylor <chip3@montana.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: First "Large" Panel
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 1996 20:42:39 -0700
Message-ID: <1996Oct12.134239.0>
References: <<199610122144.RAA25617@moltar.cetlink.net>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Chip3 Video
Precedence: bulk

KARL L. PREISACH wrote:
> 
> Hello Everyone,
>      I am starting my first project of any size and could use some advice
> as to it's construction. The finished size is 27" square. Looks to contain
> app. 100 to 125 pieces. It is a copper foiled panel,and I plan to frame it
> when done. As to questions;
>      1) Should the panel be reinforced? If so, with rods or that flat
> flexible stuff on a roll that goes between the pieces?
>      2) If I use the flat stuff, does it go around every piece or just in
> some areas?
>      3) As to framing; should I use the "U" shaped framing stock or is
> standard framing with glazier points strong enough?
>      4) The panel will be hung on a white painted wall with two recessed
> "eyeball" ceiling spotlights shining on it. Should there be any
> consideration made as to glass color? That is, should I use relatively
> light colored glass so that the light reflects off the wall or does it
> matter?
>      5) What would be the best way to hang it? A small cable like a
> conventional picture or a chain that would be visible?
>      I realize that this a lot if information to ask, but I know of no
> better source.
> Many TIA
> Karl
> ----
> Hi, Yes, that's a lot of questions.  They're good ones though and I'm anxious to hear the responses as I too would like to know several of the 
points you've asked about.  T.
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From owner-glass Sat Oct 12 20:16:33 1996
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From: Phil Taylor <chip3@montana.com>
To: Stained Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Soldering Irons
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 1996 20:53:05 -0700
Message-ID: <1996Oct12.13535.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Chip3 Video
Precedence: bulk

Hi, I would like some info on soldering irons.  I've been using an 
older Weller 100, put a new 1/4" No.7 tip on about 6 months ago and two 
days ago the tip became corroded, won't hold solder.  The iron also 
heats inconsistently, sometimes causing the iron tip, solder and lead 
joint to all become One; it takes 2 to 3 seconds for the iron to heat 
enough to disengage the above.
I'm thinking I need a new iron.  Agree?  
Do I need different irons or tips for lead than for copper foil?
Is there a place to mail order a Weller 100 at a reasonable price?
Do you recommend another brand of iron?  If so, which brand and what are 
the advantages?  Please respond to: chip3@montana.com -- Thanks, T.
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From owner-glass Sat Oct 12 20:19:05 1996
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From: Phil Taylor <chip3@montana.com>
To: Stained Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Copper came
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 1996 20:56:14 -0700
Message-ID: <1996Oct12.135614.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Chip3 Video
Precedence: bulk

I'm looking for any advice on soldering copper came.  I incoporated some 
in a leaded piece and had a battle trying to do it justice.  Either the 
solder wouldn't stick, or the glob of solder looked like I was 
practicing, a novice (though I'm relatively new at this).  In other 
words, the copper came joints were a real mess after I tried to solder 
them.  I cleaned the copper well with 0000 steel wool before assembling 
the pieces into the leaded piece.  I used a regular amount of flux, but 
the copper seemed to "wick" away so much heat from the iron that I 
couldn't get a decent joint.  Any advice?  Please respond to: 
chip3@montana.com -- Thanks, T.
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From owner-glass Sun Oct 13 04:23:42 1996
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From: llutz <llutz@tpgi.com.au>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Copper came
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 1996 21:22:13 +1100
Message-ID: <1996Oct14.82213.0>
References: <<1996Oct12.135614.0>>
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Precedence: bulk

Phil Taylor wrote:
> 
> I'm looking for any advice on soldering copper came.  I incoporated some
> in a leaded piece and had a battle trying to do it justice.  Either the
> solder wouldn't stick, or the glob of solder looked like I was
> practicing, a novice (though I'm relatively new at this).  In other
> words, the copper came joints were a real mess after I tried to solder
> them.  I cleaned the copper well with 0000 steel wool before assembling
> the pieces into the leaded piece.  I used a regular amount of flux, but
> the copper seemed to "wick" away so much heat from the iron that I
> couldn't get a decent joint.  Any advice?  Please respond to:

I would make sure of a close fit & if the joint is pulling the heat out
of the iron too quickley- use an iron with more mass (in other words-
bigger) but not necessarily hotter- 
Larry from Minore

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From owner-glass Sun Oct 13 04:23:44 1996
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From: llutz <llutz@tpgi.com.au>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Soldering Irons
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 1996 21:14:05 +1100
Message-ID: <1996Oct14.8145.0>
References: <<1996Oct12.13535.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Phil Taylor wrote:
> 
> Hi, I would like some info on soldering irons.  I've been using an
> older Weller 100, put a new 1/4" No.7 tip on about 6 months ago and two
> days ago the tip became corroded, won't hold solder.  The iron also
> heats inconsistently, sometimes causing the iron tip, solder and lead
> joint to all become One; it takes 2 to 3 seconds for the iron to heat
> enough to disengage the above.
> I'm thinking I need a new iron.  Agree?
> Do I need different irons or tips for lead than for copper foil?
> Is there a place to mail order a Weller 100 at a reasonable price?
> Do you recommend another brand of iron?  If so, which brand and what are
> the advantages?  Please respond to: chip3@montana.com -- Thanks, T.

I'm not sure what a Weller 100 is but suspect it has a plated tip- I use
an iron with a right angle bend (my favorite- at least). It does not
have a plated tip and is copper and replaceable- so can be gotten after
with a big file when it starts getting pitted. The footprint is a
circle. I have some chisel pointed ones too, but prefer the right angle
one- I have an 80 watt & 120 watt- I use a home made reostat to control
the temperature as there is no inbuilt heat controller- very similar to
a dimmer switch for lights. Both can be used on foil or lead work- One
other feature of my soldering irons- they have wooden handles- some of
the irons with plastic handles can get a bit warm after awhile.
I know this wasn't exactly the answer you were looking for but hope it
gives you a different perspective on choosing a new iron.
Larry from Minore


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From owner-glass Sun Oct 13 06:30:02 1996
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From: mike  peck <summit-stained-glass@worldnet.att.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Copper came
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 1996 13:29:35 +0000
Message-ID: <1996Oct13.132935.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

At 03:56 AM 10/13/96 +0000, you wrote:
>I'm looking for any advice on soldering copper came.  I incoporated some 
>in a leaded piece and had a battle trying to do it justice.  Either the 
>solder wouldn't stick, or the glob of solder looked like I was 
>practicing, a novice (though I'm relatively new at this).  In other 
>words, the copper came joints were a real mess after I tried to solder 
>them.  I cleaned the copper well with 0000 steel wool before assembling 
>the pieces into the leaded piece.  I used a regular amount of flux, but 
>the copper seemed to "wick" away so much heat from the iron that I 
>couldn't get a decent joint.  Any advice?  Please respond to: 
>chip3@montana.com -- Thanks, T.


Copper is a tremendous heat sink so your right that the came "wicks" away
the heat from your iron.  I use a hotter iron 800-900 degrees (F) for all
hard cames, but for copper you might try 900-950.  Also use a smaller tip
because the came will discolor if you stay on it with a hot iron very long
.... a larger tip will apply so much heat to the surroundings that you will
get discoloration very easily, or worse, yet, get some heat cracks in your
glass.  Your tip should be a smaller one, about 1/8" works best for me, use
a liberal amount of WATER BASED flux, and 63/37 solder (because it has the
lowest melting point).    

I know it's tough to determine the tip temperature of your iron, but
basically you should start with some scrap came and turn your rheostat full
tilt and let it reach max temp.  Experiment with the scrap came using the
tip, flux and solder I suggested above to see if your getting a good flow of
solder into the joint.  If so, then back your rheostat off about 10%, give
it a few minutes to equilibrate, then try another joint.  Keep going until
you see the copper is sucking your heat too quickly for the solder to soak
in before freezing, then turn it up another 10% and that's your setting.
This should give you max temperature to melt your solder into the joint and
minimize potential for discoloration.  Generally, with an iron rated at max
temperature of 1000 degrees, a rheostat setting of 85-95 seems to work best
on hard cames, I'm estimating this to be 850-950 degrees. 

Good Luck,

Mike Peck

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From owner-glass Sun Oct 13 07:15:43 1996
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From: Stephanie Braman <delphigl@voyager.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: First "Large" Panel
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 1996 10:15:00 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <199610131415.KAA25159@vixa.voyager.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Morning, Karl,

>The finished size is 27" square. Looks to contain
>app. 100 to 125 pieces. It is a copper foiled panel,and I plan to frame it
>when done. As to questions;
>     1) Should the panel be reinforced? If so, with rods or that flat
>flexible stuff on a roll that goes between the pieces?

Reinforcement never hurts and for a piece this size you can use whichever
you prefer, but personally I would send to lean more toward the flexible
reinforcing strips.

>     2) If I use the flat stuff, does it go around every piece or just in
>some areas?

When using the flexible strip, it doesn't need to go around every single
piece, only in one or two lines continuous strips horizontally from side to
side.  Plan the route on your paper pattern in advance before you even begin
to cut out the pattern pieces and either indicate its route with a wider
darkened line or with a bright highlighter.  By doing this, you don't have
to remember the route you selected and you can also accommodate this area by
leaving a slightly wider gap between the glass pieces so that there is
enough room for the restrip.

>     3) As to framing; should I use the "U" shaped framing stock or is
>standard framing with glazier points strong enough?

Again, this is your preference.  The "U" framing allows for a bit of
flexibility with design.  By this I mean that if your piece either shrinks
or grows a tad, you can wait until it is finished and remeasure and adjust
accordingly.  I would advise that you consider using a came channel around
the edges of your piece, because some of your design will be lost behind the
framing otherwise.

Standard Framing would also work.  You know, I don't like to use glazier
points because I have split a frame or two before.  Instead, I secure my
panels with silicone glue and use a wooden reed on the back side to cover
this area and give it a more professional looking touch.

>     4) The panel will be hung on a white painted wall with two recessed
>"eyeball" ceiling spotlights shining on it. Should there be any
>consideration made as to glass color? That is, should I use relatively
>light colored glass so that the light reflects off the wall or does it
>matter?

No to color, but to opacity.  This is a situation that I would tend to use
more opaque or dense opal glasses because the coloring you see on the
surface will be the look of the piece when it is on the wall.  If you decide
to use any mirror at all, then pass out sunglasses so you don't blind the
viewer. <g>

>     5) What would be the best way to hang it? A small cable like a
>conventional picture or a chain that would be visible?

You could use hangars on the back of the frame so that they are in effect
"hidden".  For a piece this size, I would recommend finding the studs in the
wall, for extra hanging strength and measuring the distance between them to
determine where to place the hangars on the back of the frame.  Also, always
mount your hardware *before* putting the glass in it.

Hope this is helpful.

Stephanie

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From owner-glass Sun Oct 13 07:40:10 1996
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X-Path: CompuServe.COM!104344.622
From: "Christie A. Wood" <104344.622@CompuServe.COM>
To: "bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Wierd glass rod lamp advice
Date: 13 Oct 96 10:35:49 EDT
Message-ID: <1996Oct13.143549.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi all.  I need some advice on a possible work I might be doing (how's that for
being non-committal?).

An artist friend and I are trying to design a unique lamp/sculpture.  The base
is to be one of those very large champagne bottles (Nebukinezer, Jerhebohim,
sorry about the terrible spelling).  And out of this bottle the champagne is
supposed to be spewing and bubbling, with the cork at the top of the whole
thing.

We want to make the "spewing champagne" out of something that transmits light
and looks like champagne and won't look bad after a decade or two.  We were
thinking bent glass rods and optic fibers combined with clear glass nuggets.
The "cork" at the top could have a light bulb hidden in it to shine light down
through the "champagne", as well as the bottle having a light bulb in it to
provide light from the bottom up.  This objective requires hiding the wires up
to the light bulb in the "cork", possibly through a hollow glass rod.

Any thoughts on this?  Ever seen anything remotely like it?  Any comments will
be greatly appreciated.

...Christie

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From owner-glass Sun Oct 13 07:41:48 1996
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From: "Christie A. Wood" <104344.622@CompuServe.COM>
To: "\"KARL L. PREISACH\"" <karlp@cetlink.net>
Subject: Re: First "Large" Panel
Date: 13 Oct 96 10:35:52 EDT
Message-ID: <1996Oct13.143552.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi there Karl.  Excellent questions.  Here's my humble take on them.

1) Should the panel be reinforced? If so, with rods or that flat
flexible stuff on a roll that goes between the pieces?

Seems that the size (27" square) does dictate reinforcement.  I like to use the
flat flexible reinforcing tape for my copper foil pieces.  In fact, it is the
only type of reinforcing I CAN use in some of my very wierd, very irregular
pieces.  I have found it works well and is completely invisible in the finished
product.

2) If I use the flat stuff, does it go around every piece or just in
some areas?

Just use it in some areas.  I try to find the longest horizontal continuous line
through the panel, and include the reinforcing that there.  This way more than
one individual piece of stained glass is connected to others along the line.  I
like to first layout the horizontal reinforcement lines, then go back and add
additional vertical reinforcing lines as dictated by the pattern.  You can bend
the reinforcing tape around even the most ackward angles and curves by using
some needlenose plyers.

I layout the reinforcing lines during panel assembly prior to soldering.  In
most cases you can slip (wedge) the reinforcing tape between the copper-foiled
pieces without sacrificing dimensions.  But sometimes you might have to allow
for the extra width of the reinforcing tape, if your dimensions are particularly
critical.  I have never had to do this though.

The largest panel I've done using the reinforcing tape is a 6 feet horizontal by
3 1/2 feet vertical panel.  I've got lots of reinforcing tape throughout the
whole structure.  The panel is inside a zinc U channel frame, which is then
inside an oak external frame.

3) As to framing; should I use the "U" shaped framing stock or is
standard framing with glazier points strong enough?

I like framing with zinc U channels.  If the piece requires the formality of
wooden frames, I go with Northern Hardwood's frames for copper foil panels.

4) The panel will be hung on a white painted wall with two recessed
"eyeball" ceiling spotlights shining on it. Should there be any
consideration made as to glass color? That is, should I use relatively
light colored glass so that the light reflects off the wall or does it
matter?

When working with direct lighting being the primary light source for a stained
glass panel, rather than light shining through the panel, I choose opaque glass
rather than clear cathedral glass.  The darker colors do tend to all look dark
brown or black, so a more pastel color pallet works best for me.  The baroque
streaky glass also shows up very well against a wall.  But you have to be
careful in using it so that the swirls in the streaky glass don't overwhelm your
overall design.

5) What would be the best way to hang it? A small cable like a
conventional picture or a chain that would be visible?

I think the client might be able to help you here.  Perhaps they have a
preference.  Sometimes on my abstract pieces which cannot be framed I just
solder hanging loops into the structure and let the client hang it on the wall
from nails.

Hope this helps.  Keep us posted on your progress!
...Christie

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From owner-glass Sun Oct 13 07:55:59 1996
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From: mike  peck <summit-stained-glass@worldnet.att.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Soldering Irons
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 1996 14:55:27 +0000
Message-ID: <1996Oct13.145527.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

At 10:14 AM 10/13/96 +0000, you wrote:
>Phil Taylor wrote:
>> 
>> Hi, I would like some info on soldering irons.  I've been using an
>> older Weller 100, put a new 1/4" No.7 tip on about 6 months ago and two
>> days ago the tip became corroded, won't hold solder.  The iron also
>> heats inconsistently, sometimes causing the iron tip, solder and lead
>> joint to all become One; it takes 2 to 3 seconds for the iron to heat
>> enough to disengage the above.
>> I'm thinking I need a new iron.  Agree?
>> Do I need different irons or tips for lead than for copper foil?
>> Is there a place to mail order a Weller 100 at a reasonable price?
>> Do you recommend another brand of iron?  If so, which brand and what are
>> the advantages?  Please respond to: chip3@montana.com -- Thanks, T.

Dear T.

I have two Weller 100's that are both over ten years old.  I find it to be
one of the most rugged on the market, but not one of the most versatile
because it does not work on a rheostat (ie, you must change the tip to vary
the temperature).  Wellers work on a bimetal expansion principle so you need
full power for it to operate properly.  Thus, the problem of sticking to the
pieces sounds like it is not running at full power.  

Tip maintinance  is easy, first of all, NEVER take a file to your tip.  Get
a salammoniac bar and rub the fully heated tip over it for several seconds
with a small glob of melted solder (the molten solder will gently flow back
and forth across the tip as you rub).  The salammoniac bar will catalyze
transfer of the tin from the molten solder to your tip. If your tip is badly
corroded, then you may spend several minutes rubbing and turning your iron
over the salammoniac bar, but it will re-tin.  Have a wet sponge handy so
you can quickly wipe away any crust that develops ......... and try to have
some kind of ventilation going that will pull the vapors away from your face
because it will smoke like hell!

An artist came into my store one day complaining that her Weller 100 would
not heat up enough to melt the solder.  I took it over to my bench, plugged
it into the wall and let it heat for a few minutes, then pulled out some
solder and tried it out.  It melted everything I tried, even solid lead when
I held it for a full minute or so.  Well, of course, I wasn't surprised, but
she was.  My first question was whether or not she was using a rheostat.
No, she wasn't. Did it work before?  Yes, it worked fine until her husband
moved her studio from one end of the house to the other.  Oh, maybe you need
an electrician to see if your getting full power to the wall outlets at your
new location.  There where no wall outlets at the new location, so her
husband ran three 25 foot extension cords in tandem from one end of the
house to the other, through the rafters, around the water pipes and dangled
it down over her bench.  AHA!  As it turned out, there was enough resistance
in 75 feet of extension cord to drop the power to her iron just enough to
interfere with normal operation of the iron.  The moral here is that Wellers
must have full power in order to operate properly, and it is sensitive to
even slight reductions in power.

Like I said earlier, the Wellers are certainly rugged, but not very
versatile.  I also like the Hakkos because they operate by a ceramic heating
element that allows them to be used on a rheostat.  You can dial in abouvt
any temperature you like between 500 - 1000 degrees, and its idling
temperature range is very narrow (maybe +/-25degrees) so it maintains very
constant temp.  I don't have any old Hakkos so can't speeak for their
ruggness, but I like what I have seen so far.  

Don't give up on your Weller 100.  Try the salammoniac bar on your tip.  If
you have already taken a file to it, pitch it and buy yourself a new tip.
The tips come in 600 degree (#6) tip for decorative soldering, 700 degrees
(#7) for foil and lead work, and 800 degrees (#8) for hard cames.  1/4" is
most common, but I prefer to use a smaller tip (ie, 1/8") when decorating,
or when using a #8 tip on hard cames.

Good Luck,

Mike Peck 

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From owner-glass Sun Oct 13 07:56:34 1996
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From: mike  peck <summit-stained-glass@worldnet.att.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Soldering Irons
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 1996 14:55:31 +0000
Message-ID: <1996Oct13.145531.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

At 10:14 AM 10/13/96 +0000, you wrote:
>Phil Taylor wrote:
>> 
>> Hi, I would like some info on soldering irons.  I've been using an
>> older Weller 100, put a new 1/4" No.7 tip on about 6 months ago and two
>> days ago the tip became corroded, won't hold solder.  The iron also
>> heats inconsistently, sometimes causing the iron tip, solder and lead
>> joint to all become One; it takes 2 to 3 seconds for the iron to heat
>> enough to disengage the above.
>> I'm thinking I need a new iron.  Agree?
>> Do I need different irons or tips for lead than for copper foil?
>> Is there a place to mail order a Weller 100 at a reasonable price?
>> Do you recommend another brand of iron?  If so, which brand and what are
>> the advantages?  Please respond to: chip3@montana.com -- Thanks, T.

Dear T.,

My first question is whether or not you are using a rheostat.  Weller 100s
do not work on a rheostat because they operate on a bimetal expansion
principle.  They must receive full power before they will maintain idling
temperature, otherwise they will run cool and stick to your foil or lead, as
you note is your problem.  

I have two Weller 100s that are both over ten years old and they are still
running just fine.  I think they are among the most rugged on the market,
but certainly not the most versatile because you cannot run them on a
rheostat.  To change temp, you must change the tip.  A 600 degree tip (#6)
is used for decorative work, a 700 degree tip (#7) is used for lead and
foil, and an 800 degree (#8) tip is used for hard cames.  Also, a
salammoniac bar is a must for retinning your tip (NEVER use a file on your
tip!).  Just heat your iron to full temp, put a small glob of fresh solder
on the tip and rub it (hard, back and forth) across a salammonic bar.  Keep
a wet spong handy to wipe away any crust that develops and keep rubbing
until you see a nice shiny tip.  Also, leave a glob of solder coated on your
tip when you store it as the solder coat will prevent any oxidation from
happening at the tip surface. Also, try to have a slight cross-wind going
while you're rubbing the tip out on the salammoniac bar as it will smoke
like hell!

An artist came into my shop one day complaining that her Weller 100 did not
heat up.  I took it over to my bench and plugged it into the wall and tried
it out.  It melted every type of solder I tried, including pure lead when I
held it for a full minute or so.  Well, I wasn't surprised, but she was.  My
first question was whether or not she was using a rheostat.  No.  Did it
work OK before?  Well, yes, until her husband moved her studio to another
part of her house.  Well, maybe you need an electrician to check out your
wall outlets on that side of the house.  Well, there were no wall outlets
over there, so her husband ran three 25 ft extension cords in tandem,
through the rafters, around the heating ducts and water pipes and dangled it
down over her bench.  AHA! .................  As it turned out, there was
enough resistence in the extension cords to drop her overall power to the
iron sufficiently to interfere with normal operation of the iron.  The moral
here is that Weller 100s need FULL power to run properly and are suseptible
to even slight decreases in power.   

Don't give up on that Weller.  If you have already filed on the tip, throw
it away and get a new one.  I like a 1/4" for general purpose soldering and
I like a 1/8" tip when using a hot tip (#8) on hard cames, or when using a
cold tip (#6) for decorative work.  

Also, I like the Hakkos.  The 60 Watt general purpose iron works great on a
rheostat, it dials in a specific temperature nicely, has a good idling range
(rated at +/-25 degrees), and has a good ergonomic design and weight. I
can't speak for its longevity as have only used it for a couple of years,
but so far so good.

Hope this helps.

Mike Peck

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From owner-glass Sun Oct 13 08:20:18 1996
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From: mike  peck <summit-stained-glass@worldnet.att.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: First "Large" Panel
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 1996 15:19:54 +0000
Message-ID: <1996Oct13.151954.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

At 03:42 AM 10/13/96 +0000, you wrote:
>KARL L. PREISACH wrote:
>> 
>> Hello Everyone,
>>      I am starting my first project of any size and could use some advice
>> as to it's construction. The finished size is 27" square. Looks to contain
>> app. 100 to 125 pieces. It is a copper foiled panel,and I plan to frame it
>> when done. As to questions;
>>      1) Should the panel be reinforced? If so, with rods or that flat
>> flexible stuff on a roll that goes between the pieces?

I usually recommend that you have some reinforcement every 18" or so through
your panel.  Since yours will have 100-125 pieces, it sounds kindda busy so
not much chance you planned a straight break across the pattern to
accommodate some rebar on the backside?  If not, the "Strong Line" is a
pretty good option.

>>      2) If I use the flat stuff, does it go around every piece or just in
>> some areas?

Looking at your pattern, try to find a good series of breaks across the
middle left to right, or top to bottom.  Then, fit the Strong Line (flat
stuff) in between these breaks by cutting and bending to the contours of
your glass.  Try to over lap the Strong Line so that when you come to a
junction in your pattern where you cannot go on, drop down a few inches to
one side or the other and look for another series of breaks that works it
way to the edge of the panel. This will give your panel a "line of strength"
through the middle.

>>      3) As to framing; should I use the "U" shaped framing stock or is
>> standard framing with glazier points strong enough?

I use both.  First, I run zinc U came around the piece (for something 27"
square I'd use 1/2" U), then I frame it in wood so that the dado in the wood
just covers the U channel.  This is slightly over-built, but that's my choice.

>>      4) The panel will be hung on a white painted wall with two recessed
>> "eyeball" ceiling spotlights shining on it. Should there be any
>> consideration made as to glass color? That is, should I use relatively
>> light colored glass so that the light reflects off the wall or does it
>> matter?

Interesting approach, but i don't think your going to get much transmitted
light through.  I would suggest strong opals or even rough textured glass,
I'd stay away from cathedrals completely.  In fact, I think the rough
textures would be much more interesting in this type of display because the
viewer will get a broken reflection from the eyeball lights, rather than a
sharp flash type of reflection.  I'll be interested to see others reply to
this type of display.

>>      5) What would be the best way to hang it? A small cable like a
>> conventional picture or a chain that would be visible?

This depends on the glass you choose, with solid opals, I don't think you
will get any (or much) transmitted light so a cable across the back (ala
picture hanging) would be fine.  But, if you do go with some cathedrals,
you'll see the cable through the glass so the traditional chain hanging
might work better.


Mike Peck

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From owner-glass Sun Oct 13 08:41:54 1996
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From: mike  peck <summit-stained-glass@worldnet.att.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Wierd glass rod lamp advice
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 1996 15:41:28 +0000
Message-ID: <1996Oct13.154128.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

At 02:35 PM 10/13/96 +0000, you wrote:
>Hi all.  I need some advice on a possible work I might be doing (how's that for
>being non-committal?).
>
>An artist friend and I are trying to design a unique lamp/sculpture.  The base
>is to be one of those very large champagne bottles (Nebukinezer, Jerhebohim,
>sorry about the terrible spelling).  And out of this bottle the champagne is
>supposed to be spewing and bubbling, with the cork at the top of the whole
>thing.
>
>We want to make the "spewing champagne" out of something that transmits light
>and looks like champagne and won't look bad after a decade or two.  We were
>thinking bent glass rods and optic fibers combined with clear glass nuggets.
>The "cork" at the top could have a light bulb hidden in it to shine light down
>through the "champagne", as well as the bottle having a light bulb in it to
>provide light from the bottom up.  This objective requires hiding the wires up
>to the light bulb in the "cork", possibly through a hollow glass rod.

This sounds like a great idea, but over the years, light bulbs become
discontinued, electrical parts wear out, etc.  I have seen some incredible
sandblasted panels that mimik a foamy sea.  In fact, Rebecca Marvel just
described a technique that she has using liquid lead to get a foamy sea
appearance.  Look at some of the past issues of Common Ground magazine at
70544.3642@compuserve.com, or she can be reached directly at RAMARVEL@aol.com.


Mike Peck

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From owner-glass Sun Oct 13 08:48:41 1996
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From: mike  peck <summit-stained-glass@worldnet.att.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: First "Large" Panel
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 1996 15:48:19 +0000
Message-ID: <1996Oct13.154819.0>
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Precedence: bulk

At 02:15 PM 10/13/96 +0000, you wrote:
>Morning, Karl,

>Standard Framing would also work.  You know, I don't like to use glazier
>points because I have split a frame or two before.  Instead, I secure my
>panels with silicone glue and use a wooden reed on the back side to cover
>this area and give it a more professional looking touch.
>
Stephanie,

Just curious on your coment regarding a wooden reed.  Do you mean that it
borders the U came somehow.  What is it?  A thin strip of wood?  How thick?

More details please,

Mike Peck


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From owner-glass Sun Oct 13 08:57:13 1996
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From: "KARL L. PREISACH" <karlp@cetlink.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Large Panel
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 1996 11:53:18 -0400
Message-ID: <199610131556.LAA12942@moltar.cetlink.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Many thanks to Christie and Stephanie for the advice. I feel much more
confident that my project will be a success. The pattern I am using is from
the Delphi catalog- "Admiring the Peonies" on page 33 of the new catalog.
     Well, looks like it's time to fill out another order to Delphi.
Excellent people, products and service!

Karl
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From owner-glass Sun Oct 13 09:27:56 1996
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From: Stephanie Braman <delphigl@voyager.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: First "Large" Panel
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 1996 12:27:21 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <199610131627.MAA09116@vixa.voyager.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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Mike,

>Just curious on your coment regarding a wooden reed.  Do you mean that it
>borders the U came somehow.  What is it?  A thin strip of wood?  How thick?
>
>More details please,

For the reed, imagine a circular piece of wood like a dowel that has been
quartered.  Generally the reeds are approx 3/8" - 1/2" wide.  Cut the
lengths of reed to the necessary dimensions for the openning in the back of
the frame, also remember to mitre the reed so that it will fit snugly and
give the backside of the frame a finished look. Place the frame face side
down and position the glass panel in the openning face down.  After
positioning the glass, glue the panel in place with silicone, then finish
off the edges over the silicone with the wooden reed.  Silicone seems to be
the best answer for framing, because if it is necessary to repair the glass
panel as a later date, it is fairly simple to cut through and remove the
silicone without destroying the frame.

Does this explanation make more sense, Mike?

Stephanie

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From owner-glass Sun Oct 13 10:06:23 1996
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From: Richard LaVal <rlaval@sol.racsa.co.cr>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: How to repair foiled stained glass?
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 1996 11:02:44 -0600
Message-ID: <1.5.4.16.19961013001142.18ef7268@sol.racsa.co.cr>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Thanks from me too... the directions seem very clear and reasonable..... I
used a coin to hold the glass at the level of the old glass on something I
did recently.  Meg


At 10:49 AM 10/10/96 -0400, you wrote:
>David Cogen wrote:
>> 
>> Hi everyone. I am new to the list, and an amateur stained glass maker.
>> 
>> I have made several pieces, but have never had to repair one yet. I am
>> wondering: If I have a piece made from foiled glass, how to I remove a broken
>> pane? It would seem that I would have to simultaneously melt all the solder
>> surrounding the pane, so that I can remove the broken pane while the
solder is
>> melted. Obviously a soldering iron will not do that; it only melts near where
>> the iron is at that instant. How is this done?
>> 
>> -- David.
>> 
>> ----
>> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
>ok it's a little difficult to describe by typing, but i'll try.
>
>1. clean the project off, just to get any gunk off.
>
>2. score the broken piece like crazy, criss cross in a grid across the
>piece.
>
>3. tap on the back of the piece, with the ball, to crack out the lines.
>
>4. carefully poke out the pieces with a needlenose pliers, be carefull
>though you might bend the project.
>
>5. try to remove as much of the glass as you can, though don't force any
>of it out.
>
>6. heat up your iron.
>
>7. apply alot of flux to both sides of the project, where the outline of
>the piece was.
>
>8. melt the joint out with the iron, using the iron like a putty knife,
>'walk' the iron under the foil so it lifts away. becarefull in this
>step, because you could cause the surrounding pieces to crack, the
>opposite foil to lift out or rip.
>
>9. continue doing this until all the old foil and glass is removed. it
>might be difficult and smelly at first if the piece was patinaed.
>
>10. reflux the opening, and melt out any execess solder, just be sure
>the opening is smooth.
>
>11. clean the project off, remove flux, dry, etc. then sweep off your
>bench, you don't have to turn off your iron, unless the piece is going
>to take a while to cut.
>
>12. put your new glass under the project, trace the opening onto the
>glass (so you have a tight fit later).
>
>13. cut, grind (and be sure that it's going to fit), and foil the piece.
>
>14. stick it in the opening, and solder as usual, the only tricky part
>is that the piece will be lower, depending on the height of the solder
>on the back of the project.
>
>---Mike Savad
>
>-- 
>Mike's Stained Glass
>http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
>----
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>
>

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From owner-glass Sun Oct 13 10:20:56 1996
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From: "KARL L. PREISACH" <karlp@cetlink.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Thanks, Mike
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 1996 13:17:07 -0400
Message-ID: <199610131720.NAA14546@moltar.cetlink.net>
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     Thanks to you also, Mike. I wouldn't want to leave anybody out! All of
the advice I have received is very helpful and much appreciated.

Karl 
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From owner-glass Sun Oct 13 10:32:44 1996
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From: mike  peck <summit-stained-glass@worldnet.att.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: First "Large" Panel
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 1996 17:32:20 +0000
Message-ID: <1996Oct13.173220.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

At 04:27 PM 10/13/96 +0000, you wrote:
>Mike,
>
>>Just curious on your coment regarding a wooden reed.  Do you mean that it
>>borders the U came somehow.  What is it?  A thin strip of wood?  How thick?
>>
>>More details please,
>
>For the reed, imagine a circular piece of wood like a dowel that has been
>quartered.  Generally the reeds are approx 3/8" - 1/2" wide.  Cut the
>lengths of reed to the necessary dimensions for the openning in the back of
>the frame, also remember to mitre the reed so that it will fit snugly and
>give the backside of the frame a finished look. Place the frame face side
>down and position the glass panel in the openning face down.  After
>positioning the glass, glue the panel in place with silicone, then finish
>off the edges over the silicone with the wooden reed.  Silicone seems to be
>the best answer for framing, because if it is necessary to repair the glass
>panel as a later date, it is fairly simple to cut through and remove the
>silicone without destroying the frame.
>
>Does this explanation make more sense, Mike?
>
>Stephanie
>
Yep, makes sense now, thanks for your reply.  Sounds like your using a
wooden frame with a profile similar to a picture frame (ie, rabbet groove on
the back side).  I have also thought of using such frames, but generally the
depth of the rabbet is not deep enough to take your U came and a wooden
reed.  So, I opt to use frame stock with a dado wide and deep enough for the
U, then I miter the corners and use countersunk screws on the ends to hold
it together.  That way i can take it apart for repairs if necessary.  Where
are you getting your frame stock?  Or, do you supply it?  (from your email
address, may I assume you are with Delphi).

Mike

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From owner-glass Sun Oct 13 10:55:54 1996
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From: jroey@juno.com (Jerri M Roey)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: First "Large" Panel
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 1996 13:54:12 EDT
Message-ID: <1996Oct13.175412.0>
References: <<199610131415.KAA25159@vixa.voyager.net>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi Stephanie,

	I was wondering about when you were talking about reinforcing the
panel from side to side?  Do you also reinforce top to bottom?  For
example, say you had a large rectangular panel.  I know I've heard you
don't want the panel to buckle, so I wasn't sure if your reinforce both
ways.  I've been trying to learn about reinforcing too.  I've never done
it.

	Thanks to Christie and MIke too.  I'm saving your advice to keep
on reference.

Jerri
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From owner-glass Sun Oct 13 11:19:41 1996
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From: Stephanie Braman <delphigl@voyager.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: First "Large" Panel
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 1996 14:19:18 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <199610131819.OAA21098@vixa.voyager.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Mike,


> <snip>Where
>are you getting your frame stock?  Or, do you supply it?  (from your email
>address, may I assume you are with Delphi).

Looks as thought I've been found out. <g>  Yes, I am with Delphi and have
been doing glass for 10+ yrs.  We supply ready to use wood frames that are
have rabbets that are deep enough for both the glass and the reed.  They are
manufactured by McNeil Woodworks.

Stephanie

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From owner-glass Sun Oct 13 11:30:18 1996
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From: Stephanie Braman <delphigl@voyager.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: First "Large" Panel
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 1996 14:29:50 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <199610131829.OAA22066@vixa.voyager.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi Jerri,

>	I was wondering about when you were talking about reinforcing the
>panel from side to side?  Do you also reinforce top to bottom?  For
>example, say you had a large rectangular panel.  I know I've heard you
>don't want the panel to buckle, so I wasn't sure if your reinforce both
>ways.  I've been trying to learn about reinforcing too.  I've never done
>it.

It's possible to reinforce either horizontally or vertically.  Generally
it's the shortest path, and I definitely agree with Mike to do so
approximately every 18".  In Karl's example of a 27" square, he can go
either direction.  If I were to use the external reinforcing bar, I would
probably install is horizontally to help support the weight of the glass.

Months ago, I read another tip in the "Stained Glass News" that suggests if
you are using the Adjustable "U" channel, that has a hollow portion, to
insert a dowel into this openning on the bottom piece to help support the
glass before soldering it into place.  The idea behind this is to keep the
glass from forcing its way through the channel into the hollow area and
again, keep the piece from buckling.

I'm sure that there are others in our group who have their own methods of
reinforcement and I for one would be very interested in hearing from them as
well.

Stephanie 

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From owner-glass Sun Oct 13 14:23:01 1996
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@mars.superlink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: First "Large" Panel
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 1996 17:17:48 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct13.131748.0>
References: <<199610122144.RAA25617@moltar.cetlink.net>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

KARL L. PREISACH wrote:
> 
> Hello Everyone,
>      I am starting my first project of any size and could use some advice
> as to it's construction. The finished size is 27" square. Looks to contain
> app. 100 to 125 pieces. It is a copper foiled panel,and I plan to frame it
> when done. As to questions;
>      1) Should the panel be reinforced? If so, with rods or that flat
> flexible stuff on a roll that goes between the pieces?
>      2) If I use the flat stuff, does it go around every piece or just in
> some areas?
>      3) As to framing; should I use the "U" shaped framing stock or is
> standard framing with glazier points strong enough?
>      4) The panel will be hung on a white painted wall with two recessed
> "eyeball" ceiling spotlights shining on it. Should there be any
> consideration made as to glass color? That is, should I use relatively
> light colored glass so that the light reflects off the wall or does it
> matter?
>      5) What would be the best way to hang it? A small cable like a
> conventional picture or a chain that would be visible?
>      I realize that this a lot if information to ask, but I know of no
> better source.
> Many TIA
> Karl
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


1 & 2. it all depends on what the panel look s like, to know if you
should reinforce. that newish reinforcing tape works pretty well. round
bar, although strong, you may see from the front. that flat kind (i
would choose brass) does'nt have to go over every piece just the
flexible ones. but it's hard to work with because of all the bends, and
then it's difficult to frame.

3. it all depends on what look your going for, as to what framing method
should be used. i would first border it with 1/2" zinc border came, and
then go with a hard wood fram of some kind. even if you were going to
put it in an exterior wall, i probably would'nt glaze it (or at least
not with points, just not stong enough) instead i would fram wood
around  it and sandwhich it in.

4. choosing color is up to you, and what the pattern is. these are my
suggestions: choose opal's and light clear colors, the white behind it
will show through. since your going to have reflected light as well, put
in textured glass, that faces you not the wall. also irridesents may
look good in the panel.

5. to hang: cable may not be strong enough (or at least the contacts
won't be) it all depends on how heavy it is. if you choose a zinc (or
simaler) border, make two hooks by using two old keychain rings, tin
them and solder them in the two top corners. just be sure to solder them
on both the top and side cames. 
  
  another method would be to use a frame like a painting has, or if you
use a hard wood frame, try using sash chain to hang it.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
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From owner-glass Sun Oct 13 14:49:25 1996
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@mars.superlink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Soldering Irons
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 1996 17:44:21 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct13.134421.0>
References: <<1996Oct12.13535.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Phil Taylor wrote:
> 
> Hi, I would like some info on soldering irons.  I've been using an
> older Weller 100, put a new 1/4" No.7 tip on about 6 months ago and two
> days ago the tip became corroded, won't hold solder.  The iron also
> heats inconsistently, sometimes causing the iron tip, solder and lead
> joint to all become One; it takes 2 to 3 seconds for the iron to heat
> enough to disengage the above.
> I'm thinking I need a new iron.  Agree?
> Do I need different irons or tips for lead than for copper foil?
> Is there a place to mail order a Weller 100 at a reasonable price?
> Do you recommend another brand of iron?  If so, which brand and what are
> the advantages?  Please respond to: chip3@montana.com -- Thanks, T.



i've used weller's before, they make good irons, so does hexacon (though
a bit heavy). as long as you have a reostat it does'nt make much
difference which iron you choose (as long as it's hot enough). have you
tried tinning the tip with a sal amoniac block? that's usally one of the
first things done on an iron, (it works suppringly well). but tips do
burn out. basically the irons i've used are these:

1. UNGAR - with screw on heater unit.
CONS: expensive, if the tip burns out but not the heater you'll need a
new heater unit. the other type with the screw on heaters (the kind with
the changable tips, don't get hot enough.

PROS: very light weight, heats up in under a minute, cools down in
around five. cord is flexible. and the handle stays completly cool.

2. HEXACON -  i have several very large ones, 300w and a 550w.
CONS: (at least mine anyway) are very heavy to hold. the 550w for
example has a 1" dia tip, it takes 15-20 mins just to heat up and over
an hour or more to cool. other's i've used (the type with the wood
handle.) this type also has steam vents, and i've burned my self more
than once on these. also the handles tend to get on the warm side.

PROS: it has alot of 'torque' if you will, it stays hot under quite a
bit of abuse.

3. INLAND - i had the one with the tips that went on with a collet.
CONS: the first one i had, the collet corroded away. the cord has a mind
of it's own, it's very thick, and moves the iron in the holder (and the
holder is the big kind too).

PROS: you can get a nice small tip for it cheaply (unlike unger which
even if they had a smaller tip you would have to fork out another $40 to
get it.) the handle stays pretty cool.

4. WELLER - i've had used ones, never really new ones. (i don't think
anyway)
CONS: i found the tips are harder to remove, alot come with a little set
screw that corrodes to nothing in a little while. the tip tends to lock
it self in barrel, and if you twist the bit to remove it, a burr might
occur, and it may never come out.

PROS: it's a good iron for the money, they may have improved it since i
had one. it's light waeight and easy to use. it's a good beginners iron.

---Mike Savad

-- 
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http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
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From owner-glass Sun Oct 13 14:53:51 1996
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@mars.superlink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Copper came
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 1996 17:48:42 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct13.134842.0>
References: <<1996Oct12.135614.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Phil Taylor wrote:
> 
> I'm looking for any advice on soldering copper came.  I incoporated some
> in a leaded piece and had a battle trying to do it justice.  Either the
> solder wouldn't stick, or the glob of solder looked like I was
> practicing, a novice (though I'm relatively new at this).  In other
> words, the copper came joints were a real mess after I tried to solder
> them.  I cleaned the copper well with 0000 steel wool before assembling
> the pieces into the leaded piece.  I used a regular amount of flux, but
> the copper seemed to "wick" away so much heat from the iron that I
> couldn't get a decent joint.  Any advice?  Please respond to:
> chip3@montana.com -- Thanks, T.
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

well, the came might have a clear coat on it, try using a solvent to
clean it. try using a courser steel wool or a small clean wire brush.
put more flux on, the worst that can happen is splattering. the iron
might not be hot enough. or you can experiment on a seperate project for
this one. try putting flux on the joint, apply heat to the joint put
more flux on, then solder it. maybe a paste flux will work better. or
once the solder it on the joint (regardless of how bad it looks), apply
more flux, then let the iron sit there on the joint for a few seconds,
and let the joint absorb the solder.

---Mike Savad

-- 
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http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
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From owner-glass Sun Oct 13 15:00:42 1996
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@mars.superlink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Wierd glass rod lamp advice
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 1996 17:55:29 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct13.135529.0>
References: <<1996Oct13.143549.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Christie A. Wood wrote:
> 
> Hi all.  I need some advice on a possible work I might be doing (how's that for
> being non-committal?).
> 
> An artist friend and I are trying to design a unique lamp/sculpture.  The base
> is to be one of those very large champagne bottles (Nebukinezer, Jerhebohim,
> sorry about the terrible spelling).  And out of this bottle the champagne is
> supposed to be spewing and bubbling, with the cork at the top of the whole
> thing.
> 
> We want to make the "spewing champagne" out of something that transmits light
> and looks like champagne and won't look bad after a decade or two.  We were
> thinking bent glass rods and optic fibers combined with clear glass nuggets.
> The "cork" at the top could have a light bulb hidden in it to shine light down
> through the "champagne", as well as the bottle having a light bulb in it to
> provide light from the bottom up.  This objective requires hiding the wires up
> to the light bulb in the "cork", possibly through a hollow glass rod.
> 
> Any thoughts on this?  Ever seen anything remotely like it?  Any comments will
> be greatly appreciated.
> 
> ...Christie
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

well i'm having a hard time picturing it, but i sort of see an image in
my head. if you go the way of using flat glass, try using a wickedly
bubbly piece of pink cathedral. also you could try using Youg. white
stipple (looks like fresca) that should desperse the light enout to hide
wires. if your going to go with fiber optics (which should work) another
idea might be to use white LED's and use a this wire. or even to hide
the wires, if you going to have an edge anywhere (foiled) carefull
attach or solder a small tube to conceal the wires...anyway it's food
for thought.

---Mike Savad

-- 
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From owner-glass Mon Oct 14 04:55:31 1996
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X-Path: bright.net!joyce
From: Joyce Moran <joyce@bright.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: First "Large" Panel
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 1996 07:52:44 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct14.35244.0>
References: <<1996Oct13.154819.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

> Just curious on your coment regarding a wooden reed.  Do you mean that it
> borders the U came somehow.  What is it?  A thin strip of wood?  How thick?
> 
> More details please,
> 
> Mike Peck
> 

I get my reed from caning suppliers. (The ones that do caning chairs)  
It comes in a variety of sizes and thicknesses.  This is helpful if you 
are doing something that is not the standard size that McNeil makes, and 
most stained glass suppliers will not sell just the reed, because they 
have only enough to supply with their frames.  However to get it 
shipped, I had to buy a quantity of it, and it will last me many years! 
 Hopefully you can find someone locally.


Garden of Glass
Joyce Moran
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From owner-glass Mon Oct 14 05:50:14 1996
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From:         mail <HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu>
To:           glass@bungi.com
Subject:      Caution
Date:         Mon, 14 Oct 96 08:44:36 EDT
Message-ID:   <961014.084847.EDT.HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Well, after 10 years or so of making stained glass, I finally did it.
In a moment of inattention, my soldering iron slipped in my right hand
and I automatically grabbed for it with my left hand.  Fortunately, the
burns are minor.  I feel rather stupid, but thought I ought to remind
all of us that lead's not the only danger!
Also had to finally replace my ancient Glastar grinder this past week, too.

Three bandaged fingers and still foiling...

--
Dorothy Kalahan, Interlibrary Loan  (860) 679-2940  FAX (860) 679-4046
UCONN Health Center Library, POB 4003, Farmington CT 06034-4003
HCLADM02@UConnVM.uconn.edu
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From owner-glass Mon Oct 14 05:51:56 1996
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From: elgarber@falcon.cc.ukans.edu (Ellen Garber)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: WC problems
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 1996 07:51:39 -0500
Message-ID: <9610141251.AA02201@falcon.cc.ukans.edu>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I have ordered from Warner C for a number of years and have never had any
problems.  They are a good deal slower than Delphi, but they are less money.
I was impressed with the very personal attention I received from Delphi and
do order from them more now, even though it is more costly.  I can usually
get exactly what I want in glass, whereas from Warner C its a guessing game.
Ellen
 
 

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From owner-glass Mon Oct 14 06:26:26 1996
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@mars.superlink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Caution
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 1996 09:21:16 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct14.52116.0>
References: <<961014.084847.EDT.HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

mail wrote:
> 
> Well, after 10 years or so of making stained glass, I finally did it.
> In a moment of inattention, my soldering iron slipped in my right hand
> and I automatically grabbed for it with my left hand.  Fortunately, the
> burns are minor.  I feel rather stupid, but thought I ought to remind
> all of us that lead's not the only danger!
> Also had to finally replace my ancient Glastar grinder this past week, too.
> 
> Three bandaged fingers and still foiling...
> 
> --
> Dorothy Kalahan, Interlibrary Loan  (860) 679-2940  FAX (860) 679-4046
> UCONN Health Center Library, POB 4003, Farmington CT 06034-4003
> HCLADM02@UConnVM.uconn.edu
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


i did something simaler once only i was'nt looking and grabbed the wrong
end. or of course the time i dripped molten solder in my hand...that was
fun ;).

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
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From owner-glass Mon Oct 14 07:42:35 1996
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From: "H. Taylor Buckner" <taylor_buckner@sympatico.ca>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: First large Panel
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 1996 10:41:58 -0400
Message-ID: <199610141441.KAA22900@smtp1.sympatico.ca>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

        Karl,
        If you plan to frame your project in zinc "U" channel and hang it
like that, you might think about inserting some strong braided picture wire
into the hollow portion of the sides and around the bottom of your frame.
Drill a tiny hole in each corner of the top section and pull the braided
wire out through these holes before soldering the corner joints.  Once the
joints are soldered, pull the wire tight and form the ends into small rings
or loops for chain or whatever you choose to hang the panel with.  This
method gives the whole panel support constantly but obviously should be used
in conjunction with reinforcing wire throughout the glass.  Jennifer

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From owner-glass Mon Oct 14 08:33:32 1996
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From: Roseanne Campbell <knowitall@worldnet.att.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: mosaics
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 1996 15:33:05 +0000
Message-ID: <1996Oct14.15335.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi,

Does anyone make the mosaic stepping stones as in Tiffany Gardens?  What, if
anything, so you put on them to preserve them-i. e. make them more weather
resistant?  I have made several and hesitate to spray them with something
that will change their color or the affect the glass.  

Also, does anyone have any idea where to get some nice patterns for mosaics
other than stepping stones?  I don't like them to look like miscellaneous
shards of glass-I cut out a stained glass picture and set it in cement-any
new ideas,techniques or books would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Roseanne

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From owner-glass Mon Oct 14 08:41:00 1996
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Mainly for Albert - lead sources
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@mail.nildram.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 1996 16:13:23 +0000
Message-ID: <199610141538.QAA21743@linux.nildram.co.uk>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Sorry Albert,   :-(
Better late than never....
Promised you Stilleman's address etc absolutely ages ago. Hadn't 
forgotten.
Here goes:

Stillemans S.A.
Rue Jean Tieboutstraat
1730 ASSE (Zellik)
Belgium

Tel:  +00-32-2-4660466
Fax:  +00-32-2-4666352
telex: 2577 STIPLO B

Best Regards
Elisabeth 'n Toby
----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
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From owner-glass Mon Oct 14 08:50:51 1996
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From: Laura Bettingen <labette@sprynet.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Safety
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 1996 08:28:51 -0700
Message-ID: <1996Oct14.12851.0>
References: <<1996Oct14.52116.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

This must be the season for accidental burns.  I just burned the entire
first joint on my index finger -- but on a glue gun.  It was jammed up
and when it unjammed a glob of glue burst forth and jumped about six
inches to my other hand.  It happens, I guess, but I have renewed my
resolve to keep a bowl of ice water next to my work area when I am
soldering glue bunning, etc.  Hope you all do too.

Dorothy -- watch out for secondary infection, which can be common for
severe burns.  Hope you heal soon.  Laura Bettingen


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From owner-glass Mon Oct 14 12:35:52 1996
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From: mike  peck <summit-stained-glass@worldnet.att.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Dalle de verre
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 1996 19:34:55 +0000
Message-ID: <1996Oct14.193455.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Anyone familiar with slab glass?  We have done some small jobs using dalles,
but have an opportunity to bid on a small commercial job and wonder if there
is a good "per sq ft" type estimate that we can guage our figures on.
Basically, we are looking at COGS + Labor + Profit Margin, but wonder if
we're in the ballpark, low, high, etc.  Any input appreciated.

Thanks

Mike Peck

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From owner-glass Mon Oct 14 12:38:16 1996
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From: April Paine <vgplugs@primeline.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Take a Break
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 1996 15:41:41 -0700
Message-ID: <1996Oct14.84141.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Victorian Greenhouse & Stained Glass
Precedence: bulk

STAINED GLASS  

   
                  STAINED GLASS WINDOWS
                    SPARKLE AND SHINE
                  BROKEN PIECES ENTWINED
               DARKEN COLORS THROUGH WHICH
                      LIGHT SHINES
                    A PEACEFUL GLOW
                 CATCHING THE SUNSHINE
                   SENDING THE BEAMS
                     DEEP WITHIN
                       MY SOUL
                   BEAUTY TO BRING
                    HOPE TO RENEW
                 WARMING MY THOUGHTS
               WHILE I SIT IN THE STILL
              CAUGHT IN A MYSTICAL SPELL
                    CARRIED AWAY
                  SURROUNDED BY THE
              WARMTH IN THE REFLECTIONS
                     OF THE DAY
                 COLORS FADING AWAY
                     AS THE SUN
            SLOWLY SLIPS BEHIND THE CLOUDS
                   JUST AS MY LIFE
                      CHANGES
                 FROM BLUE TO GRAY


                                 J. MOORE
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From owner-glass Mon Oct 14 12:58:40 1996
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From: mike  peck <summit-stained-glass@worldnet.att.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: mosaics
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 1996 19:54:46 +0000
Message-ID: <1996Oct14.195446.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

At 03:33 PM 10/14/96 +0000, you wrote:
>Hi,
>
>Does anyone make the mosaic stepping stones as in Tiffany Gardens?  What, if
>anything, so you put on them to preserve them-i. e. make them more weather
>resistant? 

We use Thompson's Waterseal, doesn't change any colors, repels water just
fine.  Be sure to dig a hole about 8-10 inches deep where you want to put
the stone, then fill it with medium size gravel and put your stone on top.
This will provide some drainage so the stone is not in standing water.  Take
it in during freezing weather.  I know the book says it's not necessary, but
I am not optimistic that they will survive freeze/thaw for many years.


Mike Peck

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From owner-glass Mon Oct 14 13:53:55 1996
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From: "KARL L. PREISACH" <karlp@cetlink.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: April's Posting
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 1996 16:48:37 -0400
Message-ID: <199610142053.QAA13955@moltar.cetlink.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

April,
     Thanks so much for sharing that with us. What a lovely thought!

Karl
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From owner-glass Mon Oct 14 14:30:21 1996
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@mars.superlink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: glass bottle lamp thing
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 1996 17:25:07 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct14.13257.0>
References: <<199610142053.QAA13955@moltar.cetlink.net>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

i forget who posted that bottle overflowing thing, but i have another
idea. what if you were to find an oil or something that bubbles in heat.
what you do is: fill the bottle with the liquid, and put a lamp under
the bottle (like a lava lamp). then if you can, make the overflow a
sandcarving. and be sure the overflow piece fits in the neck of the
bottle. then when the light heats up it will make the fluid bubble, and
light up the top, using the bottle like a fiber optic.

---Mike Savad

Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
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From owner-glass Mon Oct 14 17:35:29 1996
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From: "H. Taylor Buckner" <taylor_buckner@sympatico.ca>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: mosaics
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 1996 20:34:23 -0400
Message-ID: <199610150034.UAA21475@smtp1.sympatico.ca>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

        Roseanne
        You'll find a number of interesting mosaic patterns for
floors,jewellery,tabletops etc. in a book called "The MOSAIC BOOK Ideas,
Projects and Techniques" by Peggy Vance & Celia Goodrick-Clarke, published
by Conran Octopus Ltd.  It can be ordered from Delphi.  Jennifer

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From owner-glass Mon Oct 14 21:20:44 1996
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From: Phil Taylor <chip3@montana.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: WC problems
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 1996 21:56:34 -0700
Message-ID: <1996Oct14.145634.0>
References: <<9610141251.AA02201@falcon.cc.ukans.edu>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Chip3 Video
Precedence: bulk

Ellen Garber wrote:
> 
> I have ordered from Warner C for a number of years and have never had any
> problems.  They are a good deal slower than Delphi, but they are less money.
> I was impressed with the very personal attention I received from Delphi and
> do order from them more now, even though it is more costly.  I can usually
> get exactly what I want in glass, whereas from Warner C its a guessing game.
> Ellen
> 
> 
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glassHi Ellen,
If you order within a short period of time after Delphi issues a new 
catalog, you can get 25% off any item in the catalog (except the 
start-up kit) when you use the enclosed coupon.  Then the price drops 
down into the neighborhood of Warner-Crivellaro's, and you can still 
have that wonderful service that makes Delphi so nice to deal with.    
T.
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From owner-glass Mon Oct 14 21:25:18 1996
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From: izzy3@ix.netcom.com (Michael Smoucha )
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Soldering Irons
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 1996 21:24:05 -0700
Message-ID: <199610150424.VAA26938@dfw-ix10.ix.netcom.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

You wrote: 
>
>Hi, I would like some info on soldering irons.  I've been using an 
>older Weller 100, put a new 1/4" No.7 tip on about 6 months ago and 
two 
>days ago the tip became corroded, won't hold solder. 


Sounds as if you are not tinning your iron. Tinning and cleaning need 
to be an ongoing process. At this point you may need to clean your tip 
with a little more vigor than usual. Try course steel wool to clean, 
then re tin by alternatly fluxing and applying solder to the hot tip. 
If this proves to solve your problem you will need to clean and tin 
your iron on a regular basis. Keep it shiny. 
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From owner-glass Mon Oct 14 21:28:26 1996
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From: izzy3@ix.netcom.com (Michael Smoucha )
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Copper came
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 1996 21:27:09 -0700
Message-ID: <199610150427.VAA19153@dfw-ix9.ix.netcom.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

You wrote: 
>
>I'm looking for any advice on soldering copper came.    Either the 
>solder wouldn't stick, or the glob of solder looked like I was 
>practicing, a novice (though I'm relatively new at this).  I cleaned 
the copper well with 0000 steel wool before assembling 
>the pieces into the leaded piece.  I used a regular amount of flux, 
but 
>the copper seemed to "wick" away so much heat from the iron that I 
>couldn't get a decent joint. 

You need to tin the copper prior to soldering it. It is also possible 
that you may need to use a different flux. flux for lead and flux for 
zinc/copper et.al. is different.
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From owner-glass Mon Oct 14 21:38:23 1996
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From: izzy3@ix.netcom.com (Michael Smoucha )
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: First "Large" Panel
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 1996 21:36:56 -0700
Message-ID: <199610150436.VAA27859@dfw-ix7.ix.netcom.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

You wrote: 
>
>Hi Jerri,
>
>>	
>
>
>
>Months ago, I read another tip in the "Stained Glass News" that 
suggests if
>you are using the Adjustable "U" channel, that has a hollow portion, 
to
>insert a dowel into this openning on the bottom piece to help support 
the
>glass before soldering it into place.  The idea behind this is to keep 
the
>glass from forcing its way through the channel into the hollow area 
and
>again, keep the piece from buckling.
>
>
This is a very good point. I have seen many a window in zinc came where 
every piece on the bottom has fallen in to the hollow of the came.

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From owner-glass Mon Oct 14 21:46:03 1996
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From: izzy3@ix.netcom.com (Michael Smoucha )
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: First "Large" Panel
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 1996 21:44:37 -0700
Message-ID: <199610150444.VAA18041@dfw-ix12.ix.netcom.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

You wrote: 
>
>KARL L. PREISACH wrote:
>> 
>>
>>      5) What would be the best way to hang it? A small cable like a
>> conventional picture or a chain that would be visible?
>>      I realize that this a lot if information to ask, but I know of 
no
>>
>
>5. to hang: cable may not be strong enough (or at least the contacts
>won't be) it all depends on how heavy it is. if you choose a zinc (or
>simaler) border, make two hooks by using two old keychain rings, tin
>them and solder them in the two top corners. just be sure to solder 
them
>on both the top and side cames. 
>  
>  another method would be to use a frame like a painting has, or if 
you
>use a hard wood frame, try using sash chain to hang it.
>
>---Mike Savad
>
>-- I would avoid using rings soldered onto the perimeter chanels on a 
window this size. They are bound to fail. An alternate method is to run 
a galvanized re- bar along the top and 1/4 down the sides attached to 
the back of the panel. Solder these bars in as many spots as practical 
at exsisting joints but at least 4-6 places  on a panel this size. 
drill holes in the corners and hang from the holes. This method helps 
to distribute the weight of the panel over more of the surface.


ms
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From owner-glass Tue Oct 15 03:05:05 1996
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From: 1091@nethawk.com (Sue Eiszler)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: soldering iron problem
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 06:09:57 -0500
Message-ID: <v01530500ae8920195fba@[206.97.200.65]>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

>>Hi, I would like some info on soldering irons.  I've been using an
>>older Weller 100, put a new 1/4" No.7 tip on about 6 months ago and
>>two

I discovered last night that I have a problem at the other end of the tip.
My number 8 tip, about 4 years old, has deteriorated at the end with the 8
stamped on it.  Part of the end is gone and another part looks like it has
been mashed in.  I keep the other tips really well cleaned, etc. but am I
supposed to be doing something to the other end? My other tip ends don't
look like that.  Why is this tip eroding away?  Is it safe to use?  Thanks
in advance for any suggestions.

Sue
1091@nethawk.com






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From owner-glass Tue Oct 15 04:37:47 1996
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From: Joyce Moran <joyce@bright.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: mosaics
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 07:34:54 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct15.33454.0>
References: <<1996Oct14.195446.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

mike peck wrote:
> 
> At 03:33 PM 10/14/96 +0000, you wrote:
> >Hi,
> >
> >Does anyone make the mosaic stepping stones as in Tiffany Gardens?  What, if
> >anything, so you put on them to preserve them-i. e. make them more weather
> >resistant?
> 
> We use Thompson's Waterseal, doesn't change any colors, repels water just
> fine.  Be sure to dig a hole about 8-10 inches deep where you want to put
> the stone, then fill it with medium size gravel and put your stone on top.
> This will provide some drainage so the stone is not in standing water.  Take
> it in during freezing weather.  I know the book says it's not necessary, but
> I am not optimistic that they will survive freeze/thaw for many years.
> 


Last winter, several people from Michigan and Wisconsin or Montana 
commented that their stones held up just fine in up to -30 degrees F 
weather.  I'd say that should be good enough for most of us in the rest 
of the US as a test.

Garden of Glass
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From owner-glass Tue Oct 15 05:42:08 1996
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@mars.superlink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: First "Large" Panel
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 08:36:49 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct15.43649.0>
References: <<199610150444.VAA18041@dfw-ix12.ix.netcom.com>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Michael Smoucha wrote:
> 
> You wrote:
> >
> >KARL L. PREISACH wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>      5) What would be the best way to hang it? A small cable like a
> >> conventional picture or a chain that would be visible?
> >>      I realize that this a lot if information to ask, but I know of
> no
> >>
> >
> >5. to hang: cable may not be strong enough (or at least the contacts
> >won't be) it all depends on how heavy it is. if you choose a zinc (or
> >simaler) border, make two hooks by using two old keychain rings, tin
> >them and solder them in the two top corners. just be sure to solder
> them
> >on both the top and side cames.
> >
> >  another method would be to use a frame like a painting has, or if
> you
> >use a hard wood frame, try using sash chain to hang it.
> >
> >---Mike Savad
> >
> >-- I would avoid using rings soldered onto the perimeter chanels on a
> window this size. They are bound to fail. An alternate method is to run
> a galvanized re- bar along the top and 1/4 down the sides attached to
> the back of the panel. Solder these bars in as many spots as practical
> at exsisting joints but at least 4-6 places  on a panel this size.
> drill holes in the corners and hang from the holes. This method helps
> to distribute the weight of the panel over more of the surface.
> 
> ms
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

welp, my method is best used for lighter panels, nothing larger than
16x20". now i thought that solder does'nt stick to galvanized metal. how
do you get the solder to stick to it? in time galvanic action will occur
causing it to seperate from the solder. brass rebar i can see.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
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From owner-glass Tue Oct 15 05:43:33 1996
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@mars.superlink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: soldering iron problem
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 08:38:22 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct15.43822.0>
References: <<v01530500ae8920195fba@[206.97.200.65]>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Sue Eiszler wrote:
> 
> >>Hi, I would like some info on soldering irons.  I've been using an
> >>older Weller 100, put a new 1/4" No.7 tip on about 6 months ago and
> >>two
> 
> I discovered last night that I have a problem at the other end of the tip.
> My number 8 tip, about 4 years old, has deteriorated at the end with the 8
> stamped on it.  Part of the end is gone and another part looks like it has
> been mashed in.  I keep the other tips really well cleaned, etc. but am I
> supposed to be doing something to the other end? My other tip ends don't
> look like that.  Why is this tip eroding away?  Is it safe to use?  Thanks
> in advance for any suggestions.
> 
> Sue
> 1091@nethawk.com
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

it may just be time for a new tip, 4 yeears a pretty long time for a tip
to last, mine last only about a year (though i do use it quite often).

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
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From owner-glass Tue Oct 15 05:46:21 1996
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@mars.superlink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: hinges
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 08:41:12 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct15.44112.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

i'd like to know from anyone who knows (or the people that tun
catalogs), i need hinges. the hinges i need have to be brass and a 1/4"
wide. the only place i've seen them (and it's an old catalog) is WC but
i have to pay the 5 bucks, etc, etc. does anyone know if Delphi carries
those type's of higes? i'd be buying in bulk definetly at least a gross
(depending on cost). 

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
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From owner-glass Tue Oct 15 06:13:14 1996
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From: "Christie A. Wood" <104344.622@CompuServe.COM>
To: "\"M. Savad\"" <morn@mars.superlink.net>
Subject: Re: glass bottle lamp thing
Date: 15 Oct 96 09:08:04 EDT
Message-ID: <1996Oct15.1384.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Mike;

I'm the person with the wierd glass bottle lamp thing.  Thanks so much for your
suggestions!  I hadn't thought of the "lava lamp" type design, but it just might
work.

Thanks to everyone for the comments and suggestions.

...Christie

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From owner-glass Tue Oct 15 06:14:36 1996
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From: "Christie A. Wood" <104344.622@CompuServe.COM>
To: Stephanie Braman <delphigl@voyager.net>
Subject: Re: Silicone removal
Date: 15 Oct 96 09:08:05 EDT
Message-ID: <1996Oct15.1385.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Does anyone know of an easy and (hopefully) quick way to remove GE Silicone Gel
from glass?  It sure likes to bond with the glass!
...Christie

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From owner-glass Tue Oct 15 06:17:10 1996
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From: delphigl@voyager.net (Delphi Stained Glass)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: hinges
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 09:16:40 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <199610151316.JAA06001@vixa.voyager.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Mike,

>does anyone know if Delphi carries
>those type's of higes? i'd be buying in bulk definetly at least a gross
>(depending on cost). 

We don't carry this type of hinge.  We have the small bent nail and tube
version, and also the separate hinge tube and rod.  To purchase hinges of
this nature, I'm sure that you could find them either at a local hardware or
I've seen many woodworking catalogs which contain all sort of small findings
like hinges, great hangers for frames and the like.

Stephanie
______________________________________________________________________
Stephanie Braman       **  E-mail:  delphigl@voyager.net
Delphi Stained Glass   **  WWW:     http://www.voyager.net/delphiglass
2116 E. Michigan Ave.  **  Voice:   1-800-248-2048 (USA,Canada)
Lansing, MI  48912     **           1-517-482-2617 (International)
USA                    **  Fax:     1-800-748-0374 (USA,Canada)
                                    1-517-482-4028 (International)
_____________________________________________________________________

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From owner-glass Tue Oct 15 06:42:33 1996
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From: delphigl@voyager.net (Delphi Stained Glass)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: soldering iron problem
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 09:41:34 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <199610151341.JAA09900@vixa.voyager.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hey Sue!

>I discovered last night that I have a problem at the other end of the tip.
>My number 8 tip, about 4 years old, has deteriorated at the end with the 8
>stamped on it.  Part of the end is gone and another part looks like it has
>been mashed in.  I keep the other tips really well cleaned, etc. but am I
>supposed to be doing something to the other end? My other tip ends don't
>look like that.  Why is this tip eroding away?  Is it safe to use?  Thanks
>in advance for any suggestions.

The tips erode inside the barrel because flux fumes do rise and enter the
barrel and will corrode both the threading of the collar holding the tip in
place and inside the barrel.  I strongly recommend that after using an iron,
unplug it and let cool down.  When cool, go back and loosen the collar (nut,
screw, etc) so that you keep the threaded portion operational.  If this
isn't done, then over time, the metals will become "bonded" together and
there is nothing you can do replace the tip, short of purchasing a new iron.
Also, I would suggest that you use an antifreeze compound just for the
threads as this will further protect these joints and make it to screw and
unscrew these parts *and* can help protect them from flux fumes.  I'm still
using the same Weller 100, which is 10 years old, and looks very battle
worn, especially the cord which has only been melted a couple of times and
has been carefully bandaged with electrical tape. <g>

For longevity of your soldering iron tip, Weller has tips for caring for the
soldering iron tips.

*Remove tip and clean with suitable cleaner for flux used.  The frequency of
cleaning will depend on the type of work and usage.  Tips in constant use
should be cleaned at least once a week.

*Don't try to clean tip with abrasive materials and never file tip, to do so
will greatly reduce tip life.

*Don't remove excess solder from heated tip before storing.  The excess
solder will prevent oxidation of the wettable surface when tip is reheated.

*Don't use anti-seize compounds on tips, they have been plated for oxidation
protection.


Stephanie
______________________________________________________________________
Stephanie Braman       **  E-mail:  delphigl@voyager.net
Delphi Stained Glass   **  WWW:     http://www.voyager.net/delphiglass
2116 E. Michigan Ave.  **  Voice:   1-800-248-2048 (USA,Canada)
Lansing, MI  48912     **           1-517-482-2617 (International)
USA                    **  Fax:     1-800-748-0374 (USA,Canada)
                                    1-517-482-4028 (International)
_____________________________________________________________________

----
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From owner-glass Tue Oct 15 06:53:21 1996
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From: mike  peck <summit-stained-glass@worldnet.att.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Silicone removal
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 13:52:44 +0000
Message-ID: <1996Oct15.135244.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

At 01:08 PM 10/15/96 +0000, you wrote:
>Does anyone know of an easy and (hopefully) quick way to remove GE Silicone Gel
>from glass?  It sure likes to bond with the glass!
>...Christie
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


Try straight ammonia.  We sandblasted a cabinet door panel with a light
frosting background, then got sloppy with the silicon caulk when putting it
in the door frame.  Ammonia straight out of the bottle took the caulk off
the sandblasted surface just fine.  But, keep the ammonia off any finished
wood surface ........... unfortunately we found that out the hard way!

Mike Peck

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From owner-glass Tue Oct 15 07:39:28 1996
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X-Path: gjr
From: gjr@bungi.com (Glenna Rand)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Silicone removal
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 07:38:59 PDT
Message-ID: <m0vDAe3-0000bwC@daver.bungi.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

[In the message entitled "Re: Silicone removal" on Oct 15,  9:08, "Christie A. Wood" writes:]
> Does anyone know of an easy and (hopefully) quick way to remove GE Silicone Gel
> from glass?  It sure likes to bond with the glass!

Hi Christie,

Try take a razor blade (in a holder) and gently scrape.....it should come off
with ease if your glass is a smooth texture.

-- 
Glenna Rand
gjr@bungi.com
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From owner-glass Tue Oct 15 08:08:26 1996
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X-Path: voyager.net!delphigl
From: delphigl@voyager.net (Delphi Stained Glass)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Silicone removal
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 11:06:59 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <199610151506.LAA23259@vixa.voyager.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Mike,

>Try straight ammonia.  We sandblasted a cabinet door panel with a light
>frosting background, then got sloppy with the silicon caulk when putting it
>in the door frame.  Ammonia straight out of the bottle took the caulk off
>the sandblasted surface just fine.  But, keep the ammonia off any finished
>wood surface ........... unfortunately we found that out the hard way!

Great tip!  And to think all these years, I've just been using a razor blade
and and some elbow grease.

Stephanie
______________________________________________________________________
Stephanie Braman       **  E-mail:  delphigl@voyager.net
Delphi Stained Glass   **  WWW:     http://www.voyager.net/delphiglass
2116 E. Michigan Ave.  **  Voice:   1-800-248-2048 (USA,Canada)
Lansing, MI  48912     **           1-517-482-2617 (International)
USA                    **  Fax:     1-800-748-0374 (USA,Canada)
                                    1-517-482-4028 (International)
_____________________________________________________________________

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From owner-glass Tue Oct 15 08:10:13 1996
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X-Path: slonet.org!edupjohn
From: "Peggy W. Johnsen" <edupjohn@slonet.org>
To: Michael Smoucha <izzy3@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Copper came
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 08:05:19 -0700 (PDT)
Message-ID: <1996Oct15.1519.0>
References: <<199610150427.VAA19153@dfw-ix9.ix.netcom.com>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi Michael.  You say the flux for lead is different than for zinc and
copper?  Would you tell us more.  What flux do you use for zinc and
copper? 

Thanks, PJ from CA

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From owner-glass Tue Oct 15 08:15:37 1996
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From: "Peggy W. Johnsen" <edupjohn@slonet.org>
To: "M. Savad" <morn@mars.superlink.net>
Subject: Re: hinges
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 08:10:40 -0700 (PDT)
Message-ID: <1996Oct15.11040.0>
References: <<1996Oct15.44112.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi Mike:  You asked where to get hinges.  I see brass hinges at art and
craft stores all the time.  We have a chain store, Artlandish, that
carries the little brass hinges.  Good Luck.  PJ from CA.

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From owner-glass Tue Oct 15 09:27:06 1996
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X-Path: az.stratus.com!charlie
From: Charles Spitzer <charlie@az.stratus.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Silicone removal
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 96 09:26:19 -0700
Message-ID: <m0vDCJz-000LiGC@why.az.stratus.com>
References: <<1996Oct15.1385.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Customer Assistance Center, Stratus Computer, Inc.
Precedence: bulk

You wrote:
> Does anyone know of an easy and (hopefully) quick way to remove GE Silicone
> Gel from glass?  It sure likes to bond with the glass!
> ...Christie

from my use of this on aquariums, i can say that there isn't anything that  
will dissolve it off of anything once it has cured. about the only thing you  
can do is use a straightedge razor blade to scrape it off.

---
Charles Spitzer
charlie@az.stratus.com
Customer Assistance Center
Stratus Computer, Inc.
Phoenix, AZ
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From owner-glass Tue Oct 15 09:53:44 1996
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X-Path: snowcrest.net!beermug
From: beermug@snowcrest.net (Paul Deutsch)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: hinges
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 09:53:07 -0700
Message-ID: <199610151653.JAA27690@mtshasta.snowcrest.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Mike-If you can't find hinges in your area, try contacting J. Floyd at:
Designers In Stained Glass
Sparks, Nevada
(702) 359-4527
Fax  (702) 359-7288

I get mine from Joanne all the time, plus an assortment of other brass 
items.  Happy hunting!

Sherry  

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From owner-glass Tue Oct 15 11:21:33 1996
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From: len alcamo <alcamoz@mwt.net>
To: glass@bungi.com, glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Silicone removal
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 13:17:17 -0500
Message-ID: <199610151817.NAA15380@westbyserver.westby.mwt.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


>
>from my use of this on aquariums, i can say that there isn't anything that  
>will dissolve it off of anything once it has cured. about the only thing you  
>can do is use a straightedge razor blade to scrape it off.
>
>---
>Charles Spitzer
>

I've had success using Acetone on cured silicone, it does brake it down
enough so you can rub it off unsmooth glass. I will check out ammonia next
time, it would be great if it works as advertised! I've never tried to
remove uncured silicone because of the smear factor. 

Len

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From owner-glass Tue Oct 15 11:33:05 1996
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From: len alcamo <alcamoz@mwt.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: FW: [Fwd: Virus Notice]
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 13:28:54 -0500
Message-ID: <199610151828.NAA15510@westbyserver.westby.mwt.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Can this really happen???? Or just another hoax? Sorry about the bandwidth.

Len

>>SUBJECT:  New and Dangerous 'E-mail' Virus For your information...
>>>>>
>>>>>         Please pass on this information to your colleagues.
>>>>>
>>>>>         There is a computer virus that is being sent across the 
>>Internet.
>>If
>>>>> you receive an email message with the subject line "Good  Times", DO
>>>>> NOT  read the message, DELETE it immediately.  Please read the messages
>>>>> below. Some miscreant is sending  email under the title
>>>>> "Good Times" nationwide, if you get anything like this, DON'T DOWNLOAD
>>>>> THE FILE!  It has a virus that rewrites your hard drive, obliterating
>>>>> anything on it.  Please be careful and forward this mail to anyone you
>>>>> care about.
>>>>>
>>>>>         The FCC released a warning last Wednesday concerning a matter of
>>>>> major importance to any regular user  of the Internet. Apparently a new
>>>>> computer virus has been engineered by a user of AMERICA ON LINE that is
>>>>> unparalleled in its destructive capability. Other more well-known
>>>>> viruses such as "Stoned", "Airwolf" and "Michaelangelo" pale in
>>>>> comparison to the prospects of this newest creation by a warped
>>>>> mentality. What makes this virus so terrifying, said the FCC, is the
>>>>> fact that no program needs to be exchanged for a new computer to be
>>>>> infected.  It can be spread through the existing email systems of the
>>>>> Internet.
>>>>>
>>>>>         Once a Computer is infected, one of several things can happen. 
>>If
>>>>> the
>>>>> computer contains a hard drive, that will most likely be
>>>>> destroyed.  If the program is not stopped, the computer's processor
>>>>> will be placed in an nth-complexity infinite binary loop-which can
>>>>> severely damage the processor if left running that way too long.
>>>>>
>>>>>         Unfortunately, most novice computer users will not realize what
>>is
>>>>> happening until it is far too late.  Luckily, there is one sure means
>>>>> of detecting what is now known as the "Good Times" virus.  It always
>>>>> travels to new computers the same way in a text email message with the
>>>>> subject line reading "Good Times".  Avoiding infection is easy once the
>>>>> file has been received simply by NOT READING IT!  The act of loading the
>>>>> file into the mail server's ASCII buffer causes the "Good Times"
>>>>> mainline program to initialize and execute.
>>>>>
>>>>>         The program is highly intelligent- it will send copies of itself
>>to
>>>>> everyone whose email address is contained in a receive-mail file or
>>>>> a sent-mail file, if it can find one.  It will then proceed to trash the
>>>>> computer it is running on.
>>>>>
>>>>>         The bottom line is:  - if you receive a file with the subject
>>line
>>>>> "Good Times", delete it immediately!  Do not read it"  Rest assured
>>>>> that whoever's name was on the  "From" line was surely struck by the
>>>>> virus.  Warn your friends and  local system users of this newest threat
>>>>> to the Internet!  It could save them a lot of time and money.
>>>>>
>>>>>         Could you pass this along to your global mailing list as well?
>>>>>
>>
>><< end of forwarded material >>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>Andrew Phillips	
>Secretary Senior
>WSU Coop. Ext. Clallam County
>223 East 4th Street
>Port Angeles, WA  98362
>Off # (360) 417-2279
>Fax # (360) 417-2414
>
>

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From owner-glass Tue Oct 15 12:20:24 1996
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From: len alcamo <alcamoz@mwt.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: FW: [Fwd: Virus Notice]
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 14:15:04 -0500
Message-ID: <199610151915.OAA16238@westbyserver.westby.mwt.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

At 11:40 AM 10/15/96 -0700, Charles Spitzer wrote:
>no. this is an urban legend and has been debunked years ago. i wish it would  
>not keep getting resurrected.


Hi Charles,

Sorry I started this, just the nervous naivete of a computer newbie.

A response to the list of origin put it quite succinctly;

Quote

 *The *virus* is the sending of the notice itself, the *damage* is the time
it takes you to read the notice and try to figure it out and the time it
takes for people like me to tell you it is a fake*

I apologize for being a little too quick on the trigger

Len


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From owner-glass Tue Oct 15 15:17:52 1996
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From: 1091@nethawk.com (Sue Eiszler)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: soldering iron problem
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 18:22:35 -0500
Message-ID: <v01530500ae89cd139df6@[206.97.200.74]>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hey Stephanie,
        Thanks for the info.  See you in a month at Delphi.

Sue
1091@nethawk.com






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From owner-glass Tue Oct 15 15:55:07 1996
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From: leestat <leestat@gte.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: hinges
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 18:51:03 -0700
Message-ID: <1996Oct15.11513.0>
References: <<1996Oct15.11040.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Lee Boe
Precedence: bulk

Hi all,
Try the Glass Crafters Catalog-I saw some in there. Page 16  has both
the 1/4" and 7/16 inch tiny hinges.  1-800-422-4552,  8 cents each in
100 quant.  
Lee Boe
Rain-Boe's Creations
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From owner-glass Tue Oct 15 16:13:10 1996
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@mars.superlink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Silicone removal
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 19:07:14 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct15.15714.0>
References: <<1996Oct15.1385.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Christie A. Wood wrote:
> 
> Does anyone know of an easy and (hopefully) quick way to remove GE Silicone Gel
> from glass?  It sure likes to bond with the glass!
> ...Christie
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

try scraping the silicone off with a new razor, then clean the glass
with denatured alchohol.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
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From owner-glass Tue Oct 15 16:19:58 1996
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@mars.superlink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: FW: [Fwd: Virus Notice]
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 19:14:45 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct15.151445.0>
References: <<199610151828.NAA15510@westbyserver.westby.mwt.net>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

len alcamo wrote:
> 
> Can this really happen???? Or just another hoax? Sorry about the bandwidth.
> 
> Len


the Good Times virus is a hoax. it's just a e-mail chain letter, it
does'nt do anything. the hare virus on the other hand is real and very
bad.

---Mike Savad


-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
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From owner-glass Tue Oct 15 16:38:37 1996
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Silicone removal
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@mail.nildram.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 1996 00:10:48 +0000
Message-ID: <199610152336.AAA25708@linux.nildram.co.uk>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Christie Wrote,

Does anyone know of an easy and (hopefully) quick way to remove GE Silicone Gel
from glass?  It sure likes to bond with the glass!

Hi Christie,
The surest way I know of is using a rzor blade and then to clean with 
white spirit.
Elisabeth 'n Toby
----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
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From owner-glass Tue Oct 15 17:30:09 1996
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From: "Christie A. Wood" <104344.622@CompuServe.COM>
To: "bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: Silicon removal techniques
Date: 15 Oct 96 20:25:27 EDT
Message-ID: <1996Oct16.02527.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Man!  Everyone at bungi.com is quick on the uptake!  Thanks for all the replies
and suggestions.  Since the glass in question is smooth, I think I'll do the
razor trick.  I certainly appreciate everyone's quick replies.

...Christie

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From owner-glass Tue Oct 15 18:18:22 1996
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From: madglass@usaor.net (Mary Ann Dulemba)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: FW: [Fwd: Virus Notice]
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 21:14:38 -0400
Message-ID: <199610160122.VAA00744@gate.usaor.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Okay - so I must have had my head in the ground.  Someone care to inform me
about the hare virus?

>len alcamo wrote:
>> 
>> Can this really happen???? Or just another hoax? Sorry about the bandwidth.
>> 
>> Len
>
>
>the Good Times virus is a hoax. it's just a e-mail chain letter, it
>does'nt do anything. the hare virus on the other hand is real and very
>bad.
>
>---Mike Savad
>
>
>-- 
>Mike's Stained Glass
>http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
>
--
Registered ICC User
check out http://www.usefulware.com/~jfoltz


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From owner-glass Tue Oct 15 18:37:45 1996
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From: "Kathy Sagy" <reflections@brinet.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: Fireplace Screens
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 21:34:10 -0600
Message-ID: <199610160140.VAA12547@bones.brinet.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

The fireplace screens in the "Stained Glass Basics" book are great, they
are made by a couple of women who have a shop in Virginia.  My husband made
a screen a couple of yrs. ago for my parents, measured the opening and went
to a fireplace shop to check on the size of the screen needed.  Keep in
mind that the ladies in VA are billing these screens as usuable, we will
sell ours for beauty only, not to be used w/heat I don't think they will
stand up to the heat.  You may want to talk with Marti the feature artist
in "Stained Glass Basics"  she works out of  "A Touch of Glass" in
Asheville, NC, and by the way is an excellent instructor, t/p 704 258-2749.

----------
> From: Stephanie Braman <delphigl@voyager.net>
> To: glass@bungi.com
> Subject: Fireplace Screens
> Date: Saturday, October 12, 1996 5:34 PM
> 
> Lately, I have been receiving many inquiries about fireplace screens. 
Does
> anyone have any idea what the standard dimensions of the 3 pieces would
be?  
> There are several beautiful examples in a new book "Stained Glass Basics"
by
> Chris Rich with my personal favorite being a Victorian design done with
> clear textures, teal blues and purples.  I especially liked the creative
use
> of a bevel cluster in this design.  Instead of the cluster being closely
> grouped it has been spread out into the design in a "burst" type of
pattern.
> It's very lovely.
> 
> Thanks for any assistance.
> Stephanie
> 
> ----
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From owner-glass Tue Oct 15 18:43:48 1996
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X-Path: montana.com!chip3
From: Phil Taylor <chip3@montana.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: soldering iron problem
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 19:20:39 -0700
Message-ID: <1996Oct15.122039.0>
References: <<v01530500ae8920195fba@[206.97.200.65]>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Chip3 Video
Precedence: bulk

Sue Eiszler wrote:
> 
> >>Hi, I would like some info on soldering irons.  I've been using an
> >>older Weller 100, put a new 1/4" No.7 tip on about 6 months ago and
> >>two
> 
> I discovered last night that I have a problem at the other end of the tip.
> My number 8 tip, about 4 years old, has deteriorated at the end with the 8
> stamped on it.  Part of the end is gone and another part looks like it has
> been mashed in.  I keep the other tips really well cleaned, etc. but am I
> supposed to be doing something to the other end? My other tip ends don't
> look like that.  Why is this tip eroding away?  Is it safe to use?  Thanks
> in advance for any suggestions.
> 
> Sue
> 1091@nethawk.com
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glassHi Sue,
Seems like the season for soldering iron questions.  A No. 8 tip will 
achieve 800 degrees when heated, hotter than is needed for lead or foil 
soldering.  Could be a couple things going on.  Don't leave your iron on 
longer than you need to be using it.  Also, sounds like maybe you should 
have the amount of electricity going to your iron checked.  I've been 
told that a Weller needs full power, no more and no less, to work 
correctly.  You didn't say what brand you're using, but am passing along 
what I know.  Also, tips aren't made to last forever and yours may just 
be at the end of its usefulness.  Contact the manufacturer, or there's a 
soldering iron company on the net that has a technical section for such 
questions.  They've been most helpful to me even though their irons are 
designed for electrical soldering, on circuit boards and such.  Good 
luck, T.
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From owner-glass Tue Oct 15 19:29:09 1996
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X-Path: netaxs.com!maruca
From: maruca@netaxs.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Jersey glass expo
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 22:28:16 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <1996Oct15.182816.0>
References: <<199610160140.VAA12547@bones.brinet.com>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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A while back Albert tempted us with a tease of a conference alleged to be
coming at the end of this month to New Jersey. I eagerly called the number
he included requested more details. 

Nothing.

Does anybody have anything solid?

Mary


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From owner-glass Wed Oct 16 00:46:01 1996
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X-Path: source.com.au!aking
From: Andrea King <aking@source.com.au>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Take a Break
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 22:39:02 -0700
Message-ID: <1996Oct15.15392.0>
References: <<1996Oct14.84141.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

April Paine wrote:
> 
> STAINED GLASS
> 
> Thanks for sharing hat April, just what I needed after an evening of 
classes.

Andrea
Melb, Aust


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From owner-glass Wed Oct 16 01:56:36 1996
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X-Path: crosfield.co.uk!jc
From: jc@crosfield.co.uk (Jerry Cullingford)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: soldering iron problem
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 1996 09:55:15 +0100 (BST)
Message-ID: <9610160855.AA12294@crosfield.co.uk>
References: <<1996Oct15.122039.0>>
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> > I discovered last night that I have a problem at the other end of the tip.
> > My number 8 tip, about 4 years old, has deteriorated at the end with the 8
> > stamped on it.  Part of the end is gone and another part looks like it has
> > been mashed in.  I keep the other tips really well cleaned, etc. but am I
> > supposed to be doing something to the other end? My other tip ends don't
> > look like that.  Why is this tip eroding away?  Is it safe to use?  Thanks
> > in advance for any suggestions.

As far as I know, weller tips use a magnetically switched thermostat to
control the temperature; I believe the back end of the tip (that goes into
the iron) contains a compound/alloy or whatever that changes its magnetic
characteristics at a particular temperature, and so switches the power off
when the tip gets hot enough - if that's correct, then you may find that
damage to the back could affect the temperature regulation, and you probably
don't want it shedding bits inside the iron :-). 



-- 
   _|_   Jerry Cullingford      jc@crosfield.co.uk      (Work)
  / |    Hemel Hempstead, UK    jc@selune.demon.co.uk   (Home)
  \_|_                          jerry@shell.portal.com  (alternate)
\__/                            www.selune.demon.co.uk  (soon)
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From owner-glass Wed Oct 16 05:27:21 1996
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X-Path: CompuServe.COM!70544.3642
From: "Albert Lewis [IGGA]" <70544.3642@CompuServe.COM>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Jersey glass expo
Date: 16 Oct 96 08:25:49 EDT
Message-ID: <1996Oct16.122549.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


   >A while back Albert tempted us with a tease of a conference alleged to be
   >coming at the end of this month to New Jersey. I eagerly called the number
   >he included requested more details.
   >Nothing.

Mary

I can't remember exactly where that info came from ... an inbound fax with info?
Maybe.  Anyway, it's being run by the following people; try them, unless it was
them you tried to reach ... in which case, I'm at a loss.

  Shirley  Harvey
   Las Vegas Management
   2408 Chapman Drive
   Las Vegas NV 89104 3455   (800) 217-4527

1996-1997 ... the Glass Craft Conference at the Clarion Hotel in Mt. Laurel, NJ
from October 31-November 4, 1996 then Glass Craft Expo '97 at Cashman Field
Convention Center in Las Vegas, NV March 13-16, 1997. In New Jersey, the
regional conference will offer an optional tour to Wheaton Village, a variety of
stained glass and hot glass workshops presented by popular instructors, plus a
product display area. Special events include a reception hosted by Joe Porcelli
of Glass Craftsman magazine and a glass harmonica concert. In Las Vegas, a
consumer show open to the public will feature more than 100 classes in all
categories of art glass design, techniques, and marketing presented by
well-known instructors from across the nation. A trade show open March 14-16
will feature new products and services, manufacturers' demonstrations and an art
glass gallery. The show's primary objective is education, the secondary aim is
for everyone to have fun and achieve success. If you missed it before, don't
miss it this year.


Albert
                __________________________________________
                Albert Lewis            Executive Director
                International Guild of Glass Artists, Inc.
                Tonetta Lake Road  ***   Brewster NY 10509
                (914) 278-2152 [msg]   Fax: (914) 278-2481
                __________________________________________
                     http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/

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From owner-glass Wed Oct 16 08:26:51 1996
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X-Path: memach.com!lcbell
From: Linda Campbell <lcbell@memach.com>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: I found a Glass Glue Recipe
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 1996 11:27:10 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct16.72710.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Just thought I'd share this with you. I found it at:
http://www.dfc.com/scouts/craft059.htm for those of you with access. I haven't tried it yout but it sure sounds promising.

Waterproof or Glass Glue



2 packets (1/2 ounce) unflavoured gelatin
2 tbls. cold water
3 tbls. skim milk
several drops oil of cloves (optional)

1. In a small bowl, sprinkle gelatin over cold water. Set aside to soften. 

2. Heat milk to boiling point and pour into softened gelatin. Stir until gelatin is dissolved. 

3. Add oil of cloves as preservative if glue is to be kept for more than a day. 

Makes about 1/3 cup 

How to use it: While the glue is still warm, brush a thin layer on the objects to be glued. 

This is the best glue to use for projects in which glass must be adhered to glass. For gluing decorations
on glass jars, it is best to use the glue in its liquid state. For gluing marbles together or gluing metal
ornaments to metal cans, use the glue in its gelled state. This glue is waterproof and can be used to mend
china, to glue labels on home-canned foods and jellies, or to glue wood to wood. 

Store glue in a screw-capped jar. It will gel as it cools, but this will not affect its adhesiveness. Set jar in
a pan of hot water to soften glue for reuse.
___________

Hey, if it will glue marbles together it will do ANYYHING.


Linda

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From owner-glass Wed Oct 16 08:55:55 1996
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X-Path: sympatico.ca!taylor_buckner
From: "H. Taylor Buckner" <taylor_buckner@sympatico.ca>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Band Saw
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 1996 11:55:00 -0400
Message-ID: <199610161555.LAA08803@smtp1.sympatico.ca>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

        After waiting almost four years, I finally bought a band saw last
month.  It's a Diamond Tech Laser 3000 and I'm really excited with the
possibilities, but I'm getting pretty desperate about some difficulty I'm
having with it.  Every time I cut, the water (which I know is necessary)
floods the glass and, since it contains glass powder, it covers the pattern
line totally, preventing me from seeing where I'm cutting.  I think I've
spoiled more glass with the band saw than I ever did when I was first
learning to cut by hand. 
         I called the customer service rep. at the company, who was very
obliging and gave me several suggestions (such as turning the top water feed
off, and changing the sponge in the bottom reservoir to one with a coarser
grain), but these really don't improve matters to a point where I want to
cut more glass on the saw. 
        Having spent a considerable sum of money on the saw, and having had
my local retailer, who sold it to me, tell me that it wasn't returnable, I
am, as you can understand, anxious to make a go of it.   Does anyone on this
list have a Laser 3000, and if so, do you have the same problem?  How do you
cope with it?  Any constructive suggestions and advice would be appreciated.
Jennifer

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From owner-glass Wed Oct 16 10:20:01 1996
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X-Path: indy.net!jlaws
From: "James R. Laws" <jlaws@indy.net>
To: "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Newsgroup
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 1996 12:17:59 -0500
Message-ID: <1996Oct16.71759.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Is there a stained glass newsgroup?  How do I find it?  Thanks.
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From owner-glass Wed Oct 16 10:25:16 1996
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From: "James R. Laws" <jlaws@indy.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Band Saw
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 1996 12:23:12 -0500
Message-ID: <1996Oct16.72312.0>
References: <<199610161555.LAA08803@smtp1.sympatico.ca>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

H. Taylor Buckner wrote:
> 
>         After waiting almost four years, I finally bought a band saw last
> month.  It's a Diamond Tech Laser 3000 and I'm really excited with the
> possibilities, but I'm getting pretty desperate about some difficulty I'm
> having with it.  Every time I cut, the water (which I know is necessary)
> floods the glass and, since it contains glass powder, it covers the pattern
> line totally, preventing me from seeing where I'm cutting.  I think I've
> spoiled more glass with the band saw than I ever did when I was first
> learning to cut by hand.
>          I called the customer service rep. at the company, who was very
> obliging and gave me several suggestions (such as turning the top water feed
> off, and changing the sponge in the bottom reservoir to one with a coarser
> grain), but these really don't improve matters to a point where I want to
> cut more glass on the saw.
>         Having spent a considerable sum of money on the saw, and having had
> my local retailer, who sold it to me, tell me that it wasn't returnable, I
> am, as you can understand, anxious to make a go of it.   Does anyone on this
> list have a Laser 3000, and if so, do you have the same problem?  How do you
> cope with it?  Any constructive suggestions and advice would be appreciated.
> Jennifer
>

I would push the issue with the retailer.  I bought the saw and returned
it after three days.  It was difficult to clean and nothing I did would
keep the saw from flooding my work and my entire work bench.  I bought a
Taurus II ring saw and I love it.  I also tried a Gripon band saw and
liked it.  Sorry if I offend anyone but the laser 3000 is garbage.
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From owner-glass Wed Oct 16 10:48:23 1996
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X-Path: mail.smu.edu!gshultz
From: gshultz@mail.smu.edu (Gary Shultz)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Newsgroup
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 1996 12:46:10 -0600
Message-ID: <v01530506ae8addd6691a@[129.119.37.12]>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

The Stained Glass Newsgroup is at rec.crafts.glass

=Gary


>Is there a stained glass newsgroup?  How do I find it?  Thanks.
>----
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      ~(~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~)~
    ~~~) Gary Shultz - SMU News and Information (~~~
  ~~~~~( Tele. 214-768-7665   Fax: 214-768-7663 )~~~~~
~~~~~~~) ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~(~~~~~~~


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From owner-glass Wed Oct 16 11:16:27 1996
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X-Path: california.com!cmcmurdo
From: Chris McMurdo <cmcmurdo@california.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: How to repair foiled stained glass?
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 1996 14:30:52 +0000
Message-ID: <1996Oct11.143052.0>
References: <<1996Oct10.6493.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: St. Rose Hospital
Precedence: bulk

Thanks, Mike, for that nice,concise, step-by-step procedure on repairing 
stained glass.  I'm also new to stained glass and bungled my first 
attempt to repair a piece. Does anyone know of a good, comprehensive 
book on stained glass making, covering the basics and more advanced 
techniques?  I've taken a basic class in stained glass, but other than 
taking more classes or learning through trial and error, it would be 
nice to have such a book to refer to.

Chris McMurdo
San Mateo, CA



M. Savad wrote:

> ok it's a little difficult to describe by typing, but i'll try.
> 
> 1. clean the project off, just to get any gunk off.
> 
> 2. score the broken piece like crazy, criss cross in a grid across the
> piece.
> 
> 3. tap on the back of the piece, with the ball, to crack out the lines.
> 
> 4. carefully poke out the pieces with a needlenose pliers, be carefull
> though you might bend the project.
> 
> 5. try to remove as much of the glass as you can, though don't force any
> of it out.
> 
> 6. heat up your iron.
> 
> 7. apply alot of flux to both sides of the project, where the outline of
> the piece was.
> 
> 8. melt the joint out with the iron, using the iron like a putty knife,
> 'walk' the iron under the foil so it lifts away. becarefull in this
> step, because you could cause the surrounding pieces to crack, the
> opposite foil to lift out or rip.
> 
> 9. continue doing this until all the old foil and glass is removed. it
> might be difficult and smelly at first if the piece was patinaed.
> 
> 10. reflux the opening, and melt out any execess solder, just be sure
> the opening is smooth.
> 
> 11. clean the project off, remove flux, dry, etc. then sweep off your
> bench, you don't have to turn off your iron, unless the piece is going
> to take a while to cut.
> 
> 12. put your new glass under the project, trace the opening onto the
> glass (so you have a tight fit later).
> 
> 13. cut, grind (and be sure that it's going to fit), and foil the piece.
> 
> 14. stick it in the opening, and solder as usual, the only tricky part
> is that the piece will be lower, depending on the height of the solder
> on the back of the project.
> 
> ---Mike Savad
> 
> --
> Mike's Stained Glass
> http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

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From owner-glass Wed Oct 16 11:25:16 1996
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From: Steve Abbe <ABBES@VKM.COM>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Band Saw
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 1996 13:12:00 -0500 (CDT)
Message-ID: <1996Oct16.8120.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


Hi,

<-- snip -->

>Does anyone on this
> list have a Laser 3000, and if so, do you have the same problem?  How do you
> cope with it?  Any constructive suggestions and advice would be appreciated.
> Jennifer

I recently (6 monthes ago) got one of these saws.  The first thing I did was
remove the rubber stopper from the bottom water pan and attached a hose running
to a bucket on the floor. (i used a combination of a plumbing fitting, silicone
glue, and a rubber hose)  This had the effect of keeping a lower water level in
the water resevoir, but still keeping the sponge moist. and the blade wet.
After standing a while (several days) the sponge dries out, but in that case I
just pour a little water on the sponge first.

Also, I don't turn the water bottle value on full, just about 1/2 way.
Just enough to trickle a little on the blade.

Using these two methods I don't have a problem with over abundance of water,
nor do I have a problem with build up of glass dust on the glass being cut.

Over all I am please with the saw.

hope this helps
Steve A.

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From owner-glass Wed Oct 16 13:28:34 1996
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X-Path: voyager.net!delphigl
From: delphigl@voyager.net (Delphi Stained Glass)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: How to repair foiled stained glass?
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 1996 16:27:07 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <199610162027.QAA28977@vixa.voyager.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Chris,

>Does anyone know of a good, comprehensive 
>book on stained glass making, covering the basics and more advanced 
>techniques?  I've taken a basic class in stained glass, but other than 
>taking more classes or learning through trial and error, it would be 
>nice to have such a book to refer to.

Two books come to mind.  "Stained Glass Basics" by Chris Rich has very good
instruction for both construction and repair along with some very beautiful
and inspiring photos of stained glass works.  Also, "Stained Glass Projects
and Patterns" by George Shannon & Pat Torlen is a wonderful beginning book
as it has many step-by-step photos of works in progress.  Both are winners
for anyone's stained glass library.

Stephanie

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From owner-glass Wed Oct 16 14:38:16 1996
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X-Path: montana.com!chip3
From: Phil Taylor <chip3@montana.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Stained Glass Reference Book
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 1996 15:14:04 -0700
Message-ID: <1996Oct16.8144.0>
References: <<1996Oct11.143052.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Chip3 Video
Precedence: bulk

Chris McMurdo wrote:
> 
> Thanks, Mike, for that nice,concise, step-by-step procedure on repairing
> stained glass.  I'm also new to stained glass and bungled my first
> attempt to repair a piece. Does anyone know of a good, comprehensive
> book on stained glass making, covering the basics and more advanced
> techniques?  I've taken a basic class in stained glass, but other than
> taking more classes or learning through trial and error, it would be
> nice to have such a book to refer to.
> 
> Chris McMurdo
> San Mateo, CA
> 
> M. Savad wrote:
> 
> > ok it's a little difficult to describe by typing, but i'll try.
> >
> > 1. clean the project off, just to get any gunk off.
> >
> > 2. score the broken piece like crazy, criss cross in a grid across the
> > piece.
> >
> > 3. tap on the back of the piece, with the ball, to crack out the lines.
> >
> > 4. carefully poke out the pieces with a needlenose pliers, be carefull
> > though you might bend the project.
> >
> > 5. try to remove as much of the glass as you can, though don't force any
> > of it out.
> >
> > 6. heat up your iron.
> >
> > 7. apply alot of flux to both sides of the project, where the outline of
> > the piece was.
> >
> > 8. melt the joint out with the iron, using the iron like a putty knife,
> > 'walk' the iron under the foil so it lifts away. becarefull in this
> > step, because you could cause the surrounding pieces to crack, the
> > opposite foil to lift out or rip.
> >
> > 9. continue doing this until all the old foil and glass is removed. it
> > might be difficult and smelly at first if the piece was patinaed.
> >
> > 10. reflux the opening, and melt out any execess solder, just be sure
> > the opening is smooth.
> >
> > 11. clean the project off, remove flux, dry, etc. then sweep off your
> > bench, you don't have to turn off your iron, unless the piece is going
> > to take a while to cut.
> >
> > 12. put your new glass under the project, trace the opening onto the
> > glass (so you have a tight fit later).
> >
> > 13. cut, grind (and be sure that it's going to fit), and foil the piece.
> >
> > 14. stick it in the opening, and solder as usual, the only tricky part
> > is that the piece will be lower, depending on the height of the solder
> > on the back of the project.
> >
> > ---Mike Savad
> >
> > --
> > Mike's Stained Glass
> > http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glassHi,
It was passed along to me and I'll pass it along to you.  No matter what 
level of stained glass work, the best shelf reference I've been told 
about (and have also purchased) is a book titled, Stained Glass Projects 
& Patterns, by George Shannon & Pat Torlen.  It's well illustrated, good 
photos, lots of technical explanations, a must for any SG studio.  
Enjoy, T.
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From owner-glass Wed Oct 16 14:45:39 1996
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X-Path: montana.com!chip3
From: Phil Taylor <chip3@montana.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Band Saw
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 1996 15:22:21 -0700
Message-ID: <1996Oct16.82221.0>
References: <<199610161555.LAA08803@smtp1.sympatico.ca>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Chip3 Video
Precedence: bulk

H. Taylor Buckner wrote:
> 
>         After waiting almost four years, I finally bought a band saw last
> month.  It's a Diamond Tech Laser 3000 and I'm really excited with the
> possibilities, but I'm getting pretty desperate about some difficulty I'm
> having with it.  Every time I cut, the water (which I know is necessary)
> floods the glass and, since it contains glass powder, it covers the pattern
> line totally, preventing me from seeing where I'm cutting.  I think I've
> spoiled more glass with the band saw than I ever did when I was first
> learning to cut by hand.
>          I called the customer service rep. at the company, who was very
> obliging and gave me several suggestions (such as turning the top water feed
> off, and changing the sponge in the bottom reservoir to one with a coarser
> grain), but these really don't improve matters to a point where I want to
> cut more glass on the saw.
>         Having spent a considerable sum of money on the saw, and having had
> my local retailer, who sold it to me, tell me that it wasn't returnable, I
> am, as you can understand, anxious to make a go of it.   Does anyone on this
> list have a Laser 3000, and if so, do you have the same problem?  How do you
> cope with it?  Any constructive suggestions and advice would be appreciated.
> Jennifer
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glassHi Jennifer,
I too have a band saw, about 1/4" blade.  I don't put water in the top 
bottle at all.  I merely put about 1/2" water in the bottom catch 
reservoir and placed a sponge diagonally in the reservoir (I cut a large 
sponge in half so that it's about 2-/12"X4") so that the sponge soaks up 
the water in the bottom yet is partially wedged against the saw blade.  
It works well for me, I don't get a lot of water on the working surface, 
just enough for the blade to do its job.  Give this a try and let me 
know how it worked for you.    Good luck, T.
----
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From owner-glass Wed Oct 16 14:51:09 1996
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@mars.superlink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Band Saw
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 1996 17:45:56 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct16.134556.0>
References: <<199610161555.LAA08803@smtp1.sympatico.ca>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

H. Taylor Buckner wrote:
> 
>         After waiting almost four years, I finally bought a band saw last
> month.  It's a Diamond Tech Laser 3000 and I'm really excited with the
> possibilities, but I'm getting pretty desperate about some difficulty I'm
> having with it.  Every time I cut, the water (which I know is necessary)
> floods the glass and, since it contains glass powder, it covers the pattern
> line totally, preventing me from seeing where I'm cutting.  I think I've
> spoiled more glass with the band saw than I ever did when I was first
> learning to cut by hand.
>          I called the customer service rep. at the company, who was very
> obliging and gave me several suggestions (such as turning the top water feed
> off, and changing the sponge in the bottom reservoir to one with a coarser
> grain), but these really don't improve matters to a point where I want to
> cut more glass on the saw.
>         Having spent a considerable sum of money on the saw, and having had
> my local retailer, who sold it to me, tell me that it wasn't returnable, I
> am, as you can understand, anxious to make a go of it.   Does anyone on this
> list have a Laser 3000, and if so, do you have the same problem?  How do you
> cope with it?  Any constructive suggestions and advice would be appreciated.
> Jennifer
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


well, i have the diamond laser 1000, same problems there too, the water
landing on the glass is a good thing, unfornutally the white residue is
going to be there. i would use the top feeder to wash away the grit at
the blade. also i found if i blow on the glass while working with it
will move the water out of the way so i can see what i'm doing.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
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From owner-glass Wed Oct 16 15:16:09 1996
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From: "Rund, Sharen" <Rund#m#_Sharen@MMAC.IS.LMSC.LOCKHEED.COM>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: OOF: RE: Stained Glass Reference Book
Date: 16 Oct 1996 15:20:20 U
Message-ID: <1996Oct16.72020.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hello, I'm away from the office but will be returning on 10/28/96 - please
see Mike Fabel for any questions, etc.
----
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From owner-glass Wed Oct 16 16:09:46 1996
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Fireplace Screens
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@mail.nildram.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 1996 23:40:41 +0000
Message-ID: <199610162306.AAA15092@linux.nildram.co.uk>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi Stephanie, et al,

Ain't life funny; about 2 weeks ago, a black-smith contacted me. He 
had rescued some rather fabulous, genuine wroght iron Victorian fire 
screen from a back yard somewhere, bought them for peanuts, cleaned 
them up and renovated them. Now he wants me to  make the stained 
glass to go into them. As it makes a nice change for me (normally 
doing buildings), I was delighted to accept. In any case, I want to 
"befriend" an old fashioned blacksmith (NO! Don't get the WRONG idea, 
here!!), as I have designs of my own for his skills (in wrought iron, 
silly!!).
For the first screen, he had already his own design idea. He had been to the 
Library. When I saw the design I groaned.... It was so 
unmistakeable... it was so awful. WHERE did it come from????
Sure enough, my "pet-hate" Ed Sibbett Junior....
No giggles PLEASE!!
Needless to say, I drew a  deep breath and told him I wouldn't do it 
that way.
He agreed (Thank God!).
I am looking forward to it.
Elisabeth 'n Toby
----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
----
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From owner-glass Wed Oct 16 16:09:49 1996
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: I found a Glass Glue Recipe
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@mail.nildram.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 1996 23:40:41 +0000
Message-ID: <199610162306.AAA15095@linux.nildram.co.uk>
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Linda (Campbell)
Many thanks for sharing your glass glue recipe with us. What a great 
idea.

;-)) sounds delicious ;-)
Elisabeth 'n Toby
----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
----
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From owner-glass Wed Oct 16 16:09:50 1996
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: soldering iron problem
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@mail.nildram.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 1996 23:40:41 +0000
Message-ID: <199610162306.AAA15098@linux.nildram.co.uk>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Sue (Eiszler),
4 years is a very long time for a tip. Mine last MAX about a year, 
and that is with careful maintenance.
It's nothing so frustrating using a tip that  is "pitted and refuse 
to melt the solder.
Pension off your old one and invest in a new (over here approx. $7.00 
- so not yet a "fortune").
Elisabeth 'n Toby
----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
----
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From owner-glass Wed Oct 16 16:29:16 1996
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From: len alcamo <alcamoz@mwt.net>
To: glass@bungi.com, "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: I found a Glass Glue Recipe
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 1996 18:24:04 -0500
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Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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>
>Hey, if it will glue marbles together it will do ANYYHING.
>
>
>Linda
>

Sounds like a good breath freshener or a quick snack to boot   ;-)

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From owner-glass Wed Oct 16 16:50:06 1996
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@mars.superlink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Fireplace Screens
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 1996 19:43:54 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct16.154354.0>
References: <<199610162306.AAA15092@linux.nildram.co.uk>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Toby wrote:
> 
> Hi Stephanie, et al,
> 
> Ain't life funny; about 2 weeks ago, a black-smith contacted me. He
> had rescued some rather fabulous, genuine wroght iron Victorian fire
> screen from a back yard somewhere, bought them for peanuts, cleaned
> them up and renovated them. Now he wants me to  make the stained
> glass to go into them. As it makes a nice change for me (normally
> doing buildings), I was delighted to accept. In any case, I want to
> "befriend" an old fashioned blacksmith (NO! Don't get the WRONG idea,
> here!!), as I have designs of my own for his skills (in wrought iron,
> silly!!).
> For the first screen, he had already his own design idea. He had been to the
> Library. When I saw the design I groaned.... It was so
> unmistakeable... it was so awful. WHERE did it come from????
> Sure enough, my "pet-hate" Ed Sibbett Junior....
> No giggles PLEASE!!
> Needless to say, I drew a  deep breath and told him I wouldn't do it
> that way.
> He agreed (Thank God!).
> I am looking forward to it.
> Elisabeth 'n Toby
> ----
> As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
> North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
> http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm
> ----
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

i dunno something about fire place screens and art nuvo (i spelled how i
pronounced it), always seem to go together, even though it's real ugly.
something to think about is to do what tiffany did. he did all the
pieces in a wide came, then doubled or tripled up the came (stacked) to
give it a look of wrought iron. 

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
----
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From owner-glass Wed Oct 16 19:41:15 1996
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	id m0vDiNT-00011pa; Wed, 16 Oct 96 19:40 PDT
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From: Brian Morgan <bmorgan@qni.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: soldering iron problem
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 1996 09:41:04 -0500
Message-ID: <3264F400.708@qni.com>
References: <<199610162306.AAA15098@linux.nildram.co.uk>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Toby wrote:
> 
> Sue (Eiszler),
> 4 years is a very long time for a tip. Mine last MAX about a year,
> and that is with careful maintenance.
> It's nothing so frustrating using a tip that  is "pitted and refuse
> to melt the solder.
> Pension off your old one and invest in a new (over here approx. $7.00
> - so not yet a "fortune").
> Elisabeth 'n Toby
> ----
> As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
> North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
> http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm
> ----
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

If you own a Weller and really want to save money.  DON'T BUY YOUR TIP
FROM THE STAINED GLASS OR HOBBY STORE!!!  Take it from a buyer, purchase
your iron accesories from a local electronics supplier or catalouge such
as Marshall, Newark ect...  I can buy tips for $4.50 at my local
supplier

Brian Morgan 
Kansas City, Mo
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From owner-glass Wed Oct 16 19:59:18 1996
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From: izzy3@ix.netcom.com (Michael Smoucha )
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: First "Large" Panel
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 1996 19:58:02 -0700
Message-ID: <199610170258.TAA21505@dfw-ix12.ix.netcom.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

You wrote: 
>
>Michael Smoucha wrote:
>> 
>>
>> >
>> 
>> >
>> >-- I would avoid using rings soldered onto the perimeter chanels on 
a
>> window this size. They are bound to fail. An alternate method is to 
run
>> a galvanized re- bar along the top and 1/4 down the sides attached 
to
>> the back of the panel. Solder these bars in as many spots as 
practical
>> at exsisting joints but at least 4-6 places  on a panel this size.
>> drill holes in the corners and hang from the holes. This method 
helps
>> to distribute the weight of the panel over more of the surface.
>> 
>> ms
>> ----

>
>welp, my method is best used for lighter panels, nothing larger than
>16x20". now i thought that solder does'nt stick to galvanized metal. 
how
>do you get the solder to stick to it? in time galvanic action will 
occur
>causing it to seperate from the solder. brass rebar i can see.
>
>---Mike Savad
>
>-- 

Hot diped galvanized rebar is a standard in the industry. The 
galvanizing process is a method of zinc coating steel bars. getting 
solder to stick to the zinc is no problem. These bars ( we use 1/8 x 
3/8 or 1/8 x 1/2 on realy large projects) can be bent to follow the 
lead lines. When used properly and coupled with proper installation you 
can count on them to last for decades or more ( our company offers a 50 
year warrenty on new work.)

To tell the truth we advise against rings soldered directly on the 
perimeter came even on small (12 x 12) panels. I personaly have seen to 
many panels come in for restoration due to a fall from even "properly 
installed" rings. It simply is'nt worth the risk. 
----
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From owner-glass Wed Oct 16 20:04:22 1996
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	id m0vDijm-0000dNa; Wed, 16 Oct 96 20:03 PDT
X-Path: ix.netcom.com!izzy3
From: izzy3@ix.netcom.com (Michael Smoucha )
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Silicone removal
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 1996 20:03:05 -0700
Message-ID: <199610170303.UAA28448@dfw-ix1.ix.netcom.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

You wrote: 
>
>Does anyone know of an easy and (hopefully) quick way to remove GE 
Silicone Gel
>from glass?  It sure likes to bond with the glass!
>...Christie
>
>----
>The only way is a razor blade (and lots of care). My inquirerys with 
the local G.E. rep ended with this solution because I was told that 
there is no solvent for silicone. This is one of it's strengths, until 
you are trying to remove it ( rather tenacious adhesion).If anyone has 
any contrary information I would be very interested.
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From owner-glass Wed Oct 16 20:07:59 1996
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X-Path: ix.netcom.com!izzy3
From: izzy3@ix.netcom.com (Michael Smoucha )
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Silicone removal
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 1996 20:06:41 -0700
Message-ID: <199610170306.UAA03664@dfw-ix10.ix.netcom.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

You wrote: 

>
>Try straight ammonia.  We sandblasted a cabinet door panel with a 
light
>frosting background, then got sloppy with the silicon caulk when 
putting it
>in the door frame.  Ammonia straight out of the bottle took the caulk 
off
>the sandblasted surface just fine. 


Was this cured silicone? Was it 100% silicone or siliconized latex 
caulk?
----
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From owner-glass Wed Oct 16 20:34:55 1996
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From: izzy3@ix.netcom.com (Michael Smoucha )
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Band Saw
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 1996 20:34:25 -0700
Message-ID: <199610170334.UAA06070@dfw-ix10.ix.netcom.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

You wrote: 
>
>      I finally bought a band saw last
>month.  Every time I cut, the water (which I know is necessary)
>floods the glass and, since it contains glass powder, it covers the 
pattern
>line totally, preventing me from seeing where I'm cutting.


This is a problem with any cutting or drilling process on glass. Even 
"waterproof" markers do not stay on long enough. There are a couple of 
posible solutions, depending on your skill, patience etc. One way to 
cope is to use adhesive vinyl for your patterns. Make sure the glass is 
clean then apply the vinyl to the glass and cut away. Another option if 
the glass is transparent and light in color is to draw on the back of 
the glass and cover the ink with tape. If you feel confident in your 
cutting you can try scoring the pattern on the glass then cutting to 
this line (though this can be a little risky). As you not the water is 
indespensible. It is also important to have plenty of it. 

Good luck.
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From owner-glass Wed Oct 16 20:55:08 1996
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	id m0vDjXo-00012Pa; Wed, 16 Oct 96 20:54 PDT
X-Path: montana.com!chip3
From: Phil Taylor <chip3@montana.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: soldering iron problem
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 1996 21:32:00 -0700
Message-ID: <1996Oct16.14320.0>
References: <<3264F400.708@qni.com>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Chip3 Video
Precedence: bulk

Brian Morgan wrote:
> 
> Toby wrote:
> >
> > Sue (Eiszler),
> > 4 years is a very long time for a tip. Mine last MAX about a year,
> > and that is with careful maintenance.
> > It's nothing so frustrating using a tip that  is "pitted and refuse
> > to melt the solder.
> > Pension off your old one and invest in a new (over here approx. $7.00
> > - so not yet a "fortune").
> > Elisabeth 'n Toby
> > ----
> > As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
> > North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
> > http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm
> > ----
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> 
> If you own a Weller and really want to save money.  DON'T BUY YOUR TIP
> FROM THE STAINED GLASS OR HOBBY STORE!!!  Take it from a buyer, purchase
> your iron accesories from a local electronics supplier or catalouge such
> as Marshall, Newark ect...  I can buy tips for $4.50 at my local
> supplier
> 
> Brian Morgan
> Kansas City, Mo
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glassHi Brian, got any addresses for the catalogs you mentioned for buying 
electronic stuff, like soldering iron tips?  If so, how about passing 
the addresses along?  Would appreciate it.  Thanks for the info -- T.
----
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From owner-glass Thu Oct 17 01:18:37 1996
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X-Path: juno.com!jroey
From: jroey@juno.com (Jerri M Roey)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Glass Magazines
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 01:01:46 EDT
Message-ID: <1996Oct17.5146.0>
References: <<199610162306.AAA15092@linux.nildram.co.uk>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi everybody,

	I've been getting Glass Patterns Quarterly and like some things
about it, but not others.  I'm not crazy about the book review column
because each review ends with "Run out and buy it today!".  Not too
objective.  I do enjoy reading the articles and patterns.  Even if it's
not something I intend to make, a lot of times I pick something I didn't
know.  I like the ads and reading about new products.  Since I'm not into
hot glass (yet, anyway), or sandblasting, I'm not interested in those
parts.
	
	I know there's another glass magazine out there that is primarily
stained glass, but can't remember the name.  Could someone tell me the
name and phone #?  If there's anyone out there who gets it, I'd like to
hear some comments.  How do you like it?  I love Stained Glass News and
can't wait until our glass retailer opens, so I won't miss an issue.

Thanks for any comments.

Jerri
----
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From owner-glass Thu Oct 17 02:11:28 1996
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From: "Albert Lewis [IGGA]" <70544.3642@CompuServe.COM>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Glass Magazines
Date: 17 Oct 96 05:09:44 EDT
Message-ID: <1996Oct17.9944.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


   >I know there's another glass magazine out there that is primarily
   >stained glass, but can't remember the name.

Jerri

There's Glass Craftsman at (215) 860-9947.  But its book reviews are the same.
On the other hand, no trade magazine is the New York Times Book Review ... the
style is really more on the order of a recommendation, rather than a review. If
they don't like a book, they don't review it, IMHO.

Albert
                __________________________________________
                Albert Lewis            Executive Director
                International Guild of Glass Artists, Inc.
                __________________________________________
                     http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/

----
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From owner-glass Thu Oct 17 03:39:26 1996
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X-Path: nethawk.com!1091
From: 1091@nethawk.com (Sue Eiszler)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: soldering iron problem
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 06:44:27 -0500
Message-ID: <v01530507ae8bcbf505af@[206.97.200.43]>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Brian,
        Color me ignorant...could you supply addresses please. I just
bought a new tip for $12 last night and would love to have addresses of
Marshall and Newark for the future.  When you say local supplier, do you
mean a Radio Shack type place?

>If you own a Weller and really want to save money.  DON'T BUY YOUR TIP
>FROM THE STAINED GLASS OR HOBBY STORE!!!  Take it from a buyer, purchase
>your iron accesories from a local electronics supplier or catalouge such
>as Marshall, Newark ect...  I can buy tips for $4.50 at my local
>supplier

Sue
1091@nethawk.com






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From owner-glass Thu Oct 17 05:21:18 1996
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	id m0vDrQn-000191a; Thu, 17 Oct 96 05:20 PDT
X-Path: bright.net!joyce
From: Joyce Moran <joyce@bright.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: How to repair foiled stained glass?
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 08:17:27 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct17.41727.0>
References: <<1996Oct11.143052.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Chris McMurdo wrote:
> 
> Thanks, Mike, for that nice,concise, step-by-step procedure on repairing
> stained glass.  I'm also new to stained glass and bungled my first
> attempt to repair a piece. Does anyone know of a good, comprehensive
> book on stained glass making, covering the basics and more advanced
> techniques?  I've taken a basic class in stained glass, but other than
> taking more classes or learning through trial and error, it would be
> nice to have such a book to refer to.
> 
> Chris McMurdo
> San Mateo, CA
> 


I also suggest getting as many back issues of possible of Stained Glass 
News, they not only have articles on technique and products, they have 
tips from people who actually have tried out unusual procedures that 
really work.  I really think Stained Glass News is a plus for anyone 
starting out in Stained Glass.  Stained Glass News should be available 
at your local retailer.

Garden of Glass
Joyce Moran

P.S.  I am not involved in Stained Glass News in any way.
----
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From owner-glass Thu Oct 17 06:10:45 1996
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From: Roseanne Campbell <knowitall@worldnet.att.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: mosaics
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 13:10:19 +0000
Message-ID: <1996Oct17.131019.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

At 12:34 AM 10/15/1996 +0000, you wrote:
>        Roseanne
>        
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>Dear Jennifer,

Thanks for information on mosaics.

Roseanne


----
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From owner-glass Thu Oct 17 06:11:07 1996
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	id m0vDsDt-00015ya; Thu, 17 Oct 96 06:10 PDT
X-Path: aol.com!GCmagazine
From: GCmagazine@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Jersey glass expo
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 09:09:35 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct17.5935.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Dear Maruca,
The Glass Craft Conference Autumn 96 will be held Nov. 1,2 3, 1996 at the
Clarion Hotel in Mt. Laurel, NJ. It has a full schedule of how-to workshops
and glass related festivities including a trip to Wheaton Village on October
31. Instructors include Phil teefy, Tommy "G" Giambusso, Linda Abbot and John
Smith, Hugh Naggar, Joe Porcelli, Rachel Martin, Norm and Ruth Dobbins,
Darlene Johnson and Judy Lee, Linda Huneycutt-LeGrand and Steve Belle and
others. Call 800-217-4527  or 702-734-0070 for details. If you have any
problems getting through, call the Glass Craftsman magazine office and maybe
we'll be able to help you. It promises to be a great weekend, hope to see you
there.

Glass Craftsman Magazine
GCMAGAZINE@ aol.com
----
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From owner-glass Thu Oct 17 06:58:06 1996
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	id m0vDsxM-0000Zua; Thu, 17 Oct 96 06:57 PDT
X-Path: primeline.com!vgplugs
From: April Paine <vgplugs@primeline.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Stained Glass Reference Book
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 10:02:33 -0700
Message-ID: <1996Oct17.3233.0>
References: <<1996Oct16.8144.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Victorian Greenhouse & Stained Glass
Precedence: bulk

Phil Taylor wrote:
> 
> Chris McMurdo wrote:, the best shelf reference I've been told about (and have also purchased) 
is a book titled, Stained Glass Projects & Patterns, by George Shannon & 
Pat Torlen.  It's well illustrated, good

Hi,

My choice is "How To Work In Stained Glass" by Anita & Seymour Isenberg
ISBN 0-8019-7355-4  334 pages B&W 16 color pages. I'm task oriented and 
the text is concise.  It's not glittery like "Stained Glass Projects & 
Patterns" George Shannon & Pat Torlen ISBN 1-895569-40-0 128 pages color, 
a lot of illus. but its meaty.  I'de get both of them. 
                                    April
----
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From owner-glass Thu Oct 17 07:26:33 1996
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	id m0vDtOr-0001Cfa; Thu, 17 Oct 96 07:26 PDT
X-Path: netaxs.com!maruca
From: maruca@netaxs.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Jersey glass expo
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 10:25:57 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <1996Oct17.62557.0>
References: <<1996Oct17.5935.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Thanks for the info! That 800 number is the same one that failed me last
time, so I believe I'll give you a call. 

What I really want are the detailed times/teachers/titles for various
classes, so I can register before all the good stuff is booked up!


On Thu, 17 Oct 1996 GCmagazine@aol.com wrote:

> Dear Maruca,
> The Glass Craft Conference Autumn 96 will be held Nov. 1,2 3, 1996 at the
> Clarion Hotel in Mt. Laurel, NJ. It has a full schedule of how-to workshops
> and glass related festivities including a trip to Wheaton Village on October
> 31. Instructors include Phil teefy, Tommy "G" Giambusso, Linda Abbot and John
> Smith, Hugh Naggar, Joe Porcelli, Rachel Martin, Norm and Ruth Dobbins,
> Darlene Johnson and Judy Lee, Linda Huneycutt-LeGrand and Steve Belle and
> others. Call 800-217-4527  or 702-734-0070 for details. If you have any
> problems getting through, call the Glass Craftsman magazine office and maybe
> we'll be able to help you. It promises to be a great weekend, hope to see you
> there.
> 
> Glass Craftsman Magazine
> GCMAGAZINE@ aol.com
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> 

----
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From owner-glass Thu Oct 17 07:36:00 1996
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	id m0vDtXu-0000V0a; Thu, 17 Oct 96 07:35 PDT
X-Path: aol.com!RTMEMT
From: RTMEMT@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: First "Large" Panel
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 10:35:30 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct17.63530.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

>To tell the truth we advise against rings soldered directly on the 
>perimeter came even on small (12 x 12) panels. I personaly have seen to 
>many panels come in for restoration due to a fall from even "properly 
>installed" rings. It simply is'nt worth the risk. 

Agreed.  I've repaired several myself.  Try to distribute the weight of the
panel over as much support system as is practical.  Remember solder is very
soft and the weight of the panel can easily pull out hangers from the solder.
 If you've had a physics course, think about vector forces, and tackling
reinforcing and installation will make more sense.  Someone mentioned
planning this out in the design stage....excellent advice.  It won't end up
being an afterthought and structurally unsound.

Rita
----
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From owner-glass Thu Oct 17 09:03:06 1996
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X-Path: az.stratus.com!charlie
From: Charles Spitzer <charlie@az.stratus.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Fireplace Screens
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 96 09:02:25 -0700
Message-ID: <m0vDutv-000LhzC@why.az.stratus.com>
References: <<1996Oct16.154354.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Customer Assistance Center, Stratus Computer, Inc.
Precedence: bulk

The last 2 issues (aug/sept and oct/nov 96) of Glass Craftsman magazine had  
a 2 part article on designing and building a fireplace screen.

---
Charles Spitzer
charlie@az.stratus.com
Customer Assistance Center
Stratus Computer, Inc.
Phoenix, AZ
----
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From owner-glass Thu Oct 17 09:12:11 1996
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Fireplace Screens
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@mail.nildram.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 16:44:04 +0000
Message-ID: <199610171609.RAA15087@linux.nildram.co.uk>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi Mike (Savad); You replied:
> ----
> ----

i dunno something about fire place screens and art nuvo (i spelled how i
pronounced it), always seem to go together, even though it's real ugly.
something to think about is to do what tiffany did. he did all the
pieces in a wide came, then doubled or tripled up the came (stacked) to
give it a look of wrought iron. 


Interesting idea which I hadn't thought of before.
But, yes.. of course....!
Will try it out next time.
Many thanks Mike!
Elisabeth 'n Toby

----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
----
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From owner-glass Thu Oct 17 09:12:16 1996
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Stained Glass Reference Book
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@mail.nildram.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 16:44:04 +0000
Message-ID: <199610171609.RAA15084@linux.nildram.co.uk>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi April, Phil, et al,
Unusually for me,  I re-quote the last 2 quotes in full, I found relevant. 
April's suggestion of the "Isenberg" book is an excellent one and I 
agree with her comments,  The same team has also written a further 
book "Stained Glass - Advanced techniques and Projects", which is 
equally excellent. ISBN No. 0-8019-6194-7, or for its paperback issue
0-8019-6195-5 pbk. Not "glitzy", but down to earth practical and 
"easy" to read.
Elisabeth 'n Toby

Phil Taylor wrote:
> 
> Chris McMurdo wrote:, the best shelf reference I've been told about (and have also purchased) 
is a book titled, Stained Glass Projects & Patterns, by George Shannon & 
Pat Torlen.  It's well illustrated, good

Hi,

My choice is "How To Work In Stained Glass" by Anita & Seymour Isenberg
ISBN 0-8019-7355-4  334 pages B&W 16 color pages. I'm task oriented and 
the text is concise.  It's not glittery like "Stained Glass Projects & 
Patterns" George Shannon & Pat Torlen ISBN 1-895569-40-0 128 pages color, 
a lot of illus. but its meaty.  I'de get both of them. 
                                    April


----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
----
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From owner-glass Thu Oct 17 09:19:37 1996
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	id m0vDv9X-0000e7a; Thu, 17 Oct 96 09:18 PDT
X-Path: az.stratus.com!charlie
From: Charles Spitzer <charlie@az.stratus.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: soldering iron problem
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 96 09:18:23 -0700
Message-ID: <m0vDv9Q-000LhzC@why.az.stratus.com>
References: <<199610162306.AAA15098@linux.nildram.co.uk>>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Customer Assistance Center, Stratus Computer, Inc.
Precedence: bulk

You wrote:
> If you own a Weller and really want to save money.  DON'T BUY YOUR TIP
> FROM THE STAINED GLASS OR HOBBY STORE!!!  Take it from a buyer, purchase
> your iron accesories from a local electronics supplier or catalouge such
> as Marshall, Newark ect...  I can buy tips for $4.50 at my local
> supplier

not only that, but my local home depot carries weller irons and tips.

---
Charles Spitzer
charlie@az.stratus.com
Customer Assistance Center
Stratus Computer, Inc.
Phoenix, AZ
----
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From owner-glass Thu Oct 17 10:24:31 1996
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X-Path: mail.nildram.co.uk!glass
From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Easter Visit to Chartres in France - UPDATE
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@mail.nildram.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 17:56:32 +0000
Message-ID: <199610171722.SAA00217@linux.nildram.co.uk>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi Evereybody,

There is a special file in my e-mail system called "Cartres 97", 
where all e-mails from/to individuals have been stored, for reply.
Our "fantasies" now firming up to something realistic and realizable.
The following is an e-mail copy of  a News Release gone out to 3 
Colleges yesterday (17.10.96) and to a number of other interested 
people. 
In short, it looks as if the trip is ON!!
Here goes:

EASTER 1997 VISIT TO CHARTRES IN FRANCE
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
THE CATHEDRAL OF THE WORLD'S MOST FAMOUS &
 BEAUTIFUL STAINED GLASS.

                 4-5 days trip by coach (from UK)
                 3 nights accommodation in Chartres
         WEDNESDAY 2nd - SATURDAY 5th APRIL 1997

Preliminary Estimate of cost UK=A3150.00 per person
                (single's supplement approx. UK=A3 50).

This includes: 1) Departure by coach from regional point in UK
                          and return journey to/from ferry.
                       2) Ferry crossing to/from France
                       3) Return coach journey to/from Chartres
                        4) Use of coach + driver in/around Chartres 
                           (excursions etc.). The driver is part of 
                           "the team" and speaks fluent French.
                        5) Bed and Breakfast accommodation in Central
                            City of Chartres (i.e. NOT out in the 
                            "sticks"). The accommodation is 2* - 
                              rated.

THIS TRIP is aimed MAINLY at Stained Glass Enthusiasts, but we also
welcome:
                           "Glass@ Bungi" visitors
                            Photographers
                             Painters/Sketchers
                             French Learners (Adults)
                             Wine Tasters
                             Church Members
                             Spouses/Partners & Friends

PLEASE REGISTER YOUR INTEREST   N O W , SO WE CAN KEEP YOU INFORMED 
AND GIVE YOU FURTHER DETAILS AS/WHEN AVAILABLE.

Full Name, address,telephone/fax number (or e-mail address).

The coach company is  a reputable company who has done many similar 
trips to France before. They are deliberately planning "free space" 
in the coach (for alcoholics and souvenir hunters...).
More presice costings will emerge soon.

Payment details for "glass@Bungi visitors" we will work out by New 
Year. There is likely to be a non-refundable deposit and the balance 
to be paid some time in February. (I am working on setting up US$ 
payment to be set up for you).
As regards fares to get to UK, I have numerous ideas sent to me from 
you about "Air Miles/Frequent Fliers Points", as well as Delta 
Airways "Starvers' " Deals. All of which I hope to bring out into the 
open now.

Accommodation in UK: I am located about 40 miles north of London. Do 
not book LONDON Hotels!!!! Good, "country" accommodation at a 
fraction of the price is available locally around the area where I 
live. If you smile sweetly enough, I might even throw the odd Swedish 
dinner at you (Vegetarian or otherwise...) If any of you care to pick 
up the odd little bit from Delphi for me, I might even stretch it to 
an extra lunch......     :-)) 

The "Underwriting"/Organizing organization for this this trip is:
Samuel Whitbread Community College
Shefford Road
Clifton
Bedfordshire SG17 5QS
United Kingdom
tel: 00-44-1462-811997
fax:00-44-1462-851200
Mrs. Judith Robinson (pint-sized American who - I think - is joining 
us)
... In a Meeting only this afternoon, above pint-sized "Judy" said to 
the Director of a prestigeous Crafts College; "Elisabeth wants to go 
to Chartres, so we are organizing this trip....."
I have a lot of time for her AND her College, they are a rural 
Further Education College with a lot of "get up and go". I think I 
already mentioned that they sponsored me financially last year for 
the Hungarian Exhibition. It wasn't a lot, but it was an act of 
faith.  
...
and myself as "liaison";  name and contact as already infamously known:
Elisabeth 'n Toby 
----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
----
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From owner-glass Thu Oct 17 10:51:07 1996
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	id m0vDwak-0000oya; Thu, 17 Oct 96 10:50 PDT
X-Path: voyager.net!delphigl
From: delphigl@voyager.net (Delphi Stained Glass)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Fireplace Screens
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 13:50:30 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <199610171750.NAA16430@vixa.voyager.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

>The last 2 issues (aug/sept and oct/nov 96) of Glass Craftsman magazine had  
>a 2 part article on designing and building a fireplace screen.

Just a little correction:

First article is in the June/July 96 and the second in the Oct/Nov 96.

Stephanie
______________________________________________________________________
Stephanie Braman       **  E-mail:  delphigl@voyager.net
Delphi Stained Glass   **  WWW:     http://www.voyager.net/delphiglass
2116 E. Michigan Ave.  **  Voice:   1-800-248-2048 (USA,Canada)
Lansing, MI  48912     **           1-517-482-2617 (International)
USA                    **  Fax:     1-800-748-0374 (USA,Canada)
                                    1-517-482-4028 (International)
_____________________________________________________________________

----
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From owner-glass Thu Oct 17 13:56:10 1996
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Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6)
	id m0vDzTp-0000GMa; Thu, 17 Oct 96 13:55 PDT
X-Path: lodz.pdi.net!michu-g
From: "=?Windows-1250?Q?Grzegorz_Gier=B3owski?=" <michu-g@lodz.pdi.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: Take a Break
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 1996 02:35:34 +0100
Message-ID: <199610172055.VAA00765@gryzmak.lodz.pdi.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Bravo April and thanks for such wonderful break.
Translated into music this would be Gary Burton/vib/+Chick Corea/piano/
on album Cristal Silence released some years back.Worth listening =
especialy
while designing.
Is there more poetry,music  or prose devoted to S.G.?
Greg
----------
> From: April Paine <vgplugs@primeline.com>
> To: glass@bungi.com
> Subject: Take a Break
> Date: 14 pa=9Fdziernika 1996 23:41
>=20
> STAINED GLASS =20
>=20
>   =20
>                   STAINED GLASS WINDOWS
>                     SPARKLE AND SHINE
>                   BROKEN PIECES ENTWINED
>                DARKEN COLORS THROUGH WHICH
>                       LIGHT SHINES
>                     A PEACEFUL GLOW
>                  CATCHING THE SUNSHINE
>                    SENDING THE BEAMS
>                      DEEP WITHIN
>                        MY SOUL
>                    BEAUTY TO BRING
>                     HOPE TO RENEW
>                  WARMING MY THOUGHTS
>                WHILE I SIT IN THE STILL
>               CAUGHT IN A MYSTICAL SPELL
>                     CARRIED AWAY
>                   SURROUNDED BY THE
>               WARMTH IN THE REFLECTIONS
>                      OF THE DAY
>                  COLORS FADING AWAY
>                      AS THE SUN
>             SLOWLY SLIPS BEHIND THE CLOUDS
>                    JUST AS MY LIFE
>                       CHANGES
>                  FROM BLUE TO GRAY
>=20
>=20
>                                  J. MOORE
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
----
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From owner-glass Thu Oct 17 13:56:18 1996
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From: "=?Windows-1250?Q?Grzegorz_Gier=B3owski?=" <michu-g@lodz.pdi.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: mosaics
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 1996 02:45:27 +0100
Message-ID: <199610172055.VAA00769@gryzmak.lodz.pdi.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Is mosaics ,especialy steping stones for garden and alikes, such hot =
item nowadays in US
as we hear of here in Europe.What  are the prices/how do you price it?
How about "slipery when wet" problem.
Greg /and europeans of  only 4 months a year gardening season./
----------
> From: Joyce Moran <joyce@bright.net>
> To: glass@bungi.com
> Subject: Re: mosaics
> Date: 15 pa=9Fdziernika 1996 12:34
>=20
> mike peck wrote:
> >=20
> > At 03:33 PM 10/14/96 +0000, you wrote:
> > >Hi,
> > >
> > >Does anyone make the mosaic stepping stones as in Tiffany Gardens?  =
What, if
> > >anything, so you put on them to preserve them-i. e. make them more =
weather
> > >resistant?
> >=20
> > We use Thompson's Waterseal, doesn't change any colors, repels water =
just
> > fine.  Be sure to dig a hole about 8-10 inches deep where you want =
to put
> > the stone, then fill it with medium size gravel and put your stone =
on top.
> > This will provide some drainage so the stone is not in standing =
water.  Take
> > it in during freezing weather.  I know the book says it's not =
necessary, but
> > I am not optimistic that they will survive freeze/thaw for many =
years.
> >=20
>=20
>=20
> Last winter, several people from Michigan and Wisconsin or Montana=20
> commented that their stones held up just fine in up to -30 degrees F=20
> weather.  I'd say that should be good enough for most of us in the =
rest=20
> of the US as a test.
>=20
> Garden of Glass
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
----
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From owner-glass Thu Oct 17 14:22:44 1996
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X-Path: worldnet.att.net!summit-stained-glass
From: mike  peck <summit-stained-glass@worldnet.att.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Silicone removal
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 21:22:17 +0000
Message-ID: <1996Oct17.212217.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

At 03:06 AM 10/17/96 +0000, you wrote:
>You wrote: 
>
>>
>>Try straight ammonia.  We sandblasted a cabinet door panel with a 
>light
>>frosting background, then got sloppy with the silicon caulk when 
>putting it
>>in the door frame.  Ammonia straight out of the bottle took the caulk 
>off
>>the sandblasted surface just fine. 
>
>
>Was this cured silicone? Was it 100% silicone or siliconized latex 
>caulk?



I just read the label, looks like it was acrylic latex w/silicon.  Mfr is
macklanburg-Duncan.  It goes on white, but cures to clear over 2-3 days.
The caulk had cured for about 3 days when we hit it with the ammonia.  We
took a cotton ball and saturated it with ammonia then swabbed the area, then
threw the cotton ball away, swabbed it again with a fresh cotton ball, threw
it away, etc.  It wicked the caulk right up. I saw that the other replies to
this recommended scraping, but we didn't want to do that because we didn't
want to scratch a sandblasted surface.  If there are "no solvents" for the
other type of caulk, I suggest you look into this stuff, it has a 35 year
guarantee and holds glass to wood surfaces as good as anything we've seen.

Mike Peck

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From owner-glass Thu Oct 17 14:36:02 1996
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X-Path: mail.nildram.co.uk!glass
From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Easter Visit to Chartres in France - UPDATE
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@mail.nildram.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 22:08:05 +0000
Message-ID: <199610172133.WAA19670@linux.nildram.co.uk>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

CORRECTION!!!!
                               To our e-mail sent on 17.10.96 at 
17.56:32 hrs

1) the " =3D".......... was supposed to be underlining. Looked fine on my 
screen, but when received back, looked anything but...
2) UK prices. Just dunno why my perfectly adjusted internationally
    accepting key-board and screen wouldn't return a UK Pound 
Sterling symbol. Again, it was OK on my screen but when posted, came up 
as "UK=A3..." This should read UK Pound Sterling 150.00 and UK Pound 
Sterling 50.
Sorry about confusion. This hasn't happened before.... Don't 
understand why now....
Elisabeth 'n Toby
----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
----
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From owner-glass Thu Oct 17 15:22:33 1996
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	id m0vE0pI-0001Aha; Thu, 17 Oct 96 15:22 PDT
X-Path: waterw.com!artglass
From: artglass@waterw.com (pj friend)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Easter Visit to Chartres in France - UPDATE
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 18:21:55 -0400
Message-ID: <9610172221.AA21979@water.waterw.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

>
>EASTER 1997 VISIT TO CHARTRES IN FRANCE>>

I am leaving for Paris on Thursday. We will be in Chartes on the 26th and
meeting with the people from the internationle ecole du vitrail.   We were
there the year before last 
and spoke to a number of the students and teachers.  I am looking forward to
our trip.
One of the most magnificent glass installations in Paris is Sante Chappelle.
If you get the chance to stop there it is a must.

Any information I can get for you while I am there just let me know.

my best,
pj



>

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From owner-glass Thu Oct 17 15:25:34 1996
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X-Path: waterw.com!artglass
From: artglass@waterw.com (pj friend)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Jersey glass expo
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 18:25:03 -0400
Message-ID: <9610172225.AA22148@water.waterw.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


>

>
>> Dear Maruca,

We are about five minutes from the Clarion Hotel.  If yourself or anyone
else who will be attending the conference nneds information about the area
just let me know.
We will probably be there on November 12th I am not sure about the rest of
the dates as yet..  But would be glad to help anyone!!!


my best,
pj




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From owner-glass Thu Oct 17 15:56:44 1996
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	id m0vE1MN-000196a; Thu, 17 Oct 96 15:56 PDT
X-Path: qni.com!bmorgan
From: Brian Morgan <bmorgan@qni.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: soldering iron problem
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 05:57:03 -0500
Message-ID: <326610FF.2DB1@qni.com>
References: <<v01530507ae8bcbf505af@[206.97.200.43]>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Sue Eiszler wrote:
> 
> Brian,
>         Color me ignorant...could you supply addresses please. I just
> bought a new tip for $12 last night and would love to have addresses of
> Marshall and Newark for the future.  When you say local supplier, do you
> mean a Radio Shack type place?
> 
> >If you own a Weller and really want to save money.  DON'T BUY YOUR TIP
> >FROM THE STAINED GLASS OR HOBBY STORE!!!  Take it from a buyer, purchase
> >your iron accesories from a local electronics supplier or catalouge such
> >as Marshall, Newark ect...  I can buy tips for $4.50 at my local
> >supplier
> 
> Sue
> 1091@nethawk.com
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
I will get the address and current cost from some of the larger
suppliers.  Radio Shack isn't the knid of place I'm talking about.  They
need to be a tool supplier to the electronis industry that individuals
can also buy from.  

Brian
----
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From owner-glass Thu Oct 17 16:18:42 1996
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X-Path: primeline.com!vgplugs
From: April Paine <vgplugs@primeline.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Stepping stone pricing?
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 19:22:54 -0700
Message-ID: <1996Oct17.122254.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Victorian Greenhouse & Stained Glass
Precedence: bulk

Hi,

I went to a herb festival last Saturaday and they had simple stepping 
stones for $35-$40 with messages like "My Herb Patch" 12"x12".  We charge 
$10-$20 in case you want to step more than once. ha! ha! Actually, that's 
what we do with scrap glass you can't do anthing else with.  
                                                             April
----
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From owner-glass Thu Oct 17 16:27:44 1996
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X-Path: primeline.com!vgplugs
From: April Paine <vgplugs@primeline.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Take a Break
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 19:31:50 -0700
Message-ID: <1996Oct17.123150.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Victorian Greenhouse & Stained Glass
Precedence: bulk

Hi,

Author of poem resumed maiden name now is Joni Hensly not J. Moore.  She 
also wrote "Kaleidoscope" won award from Library of Congress.
                                                               April
----
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From owner-glass Thu Oct 17 19:19:58 1996
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X-Path: sympatico.ca!taylor_buckner
From: "H. Taylor Buckner" <taylor_buckner@sympatico.ca>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Band Saw
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 22:18:07 -0400
Message-ID: <199610180218.WAA05495@smtp1.sympatico.ca>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

        Many many thanks to all of you who took the time and trouble to
respond to my queries about the band saw.  I'll try each and every one of
your suggestions and see where they take me.  Mike Savad, I did try blowing
the "sludge" away but I got so dizzy I had to stop cutting!  Jennifer

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From owner-glass Thu Oct 17 21:28:45 1996
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From: beermug@snowcrest.net (Paul Deutsch)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Take a break
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 21:28:09 -0700
Message-ID: <199610180428.VAA24318@mtshasta.snowcrest.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

One day a group of us "glassies" were sitting around trying to figure out 
what kind of glue was best to use to glue overlay eyes on a suncatcher, my 
husband popped up with this:

What kind of glue do glass globs use
When glass won't glue to the glass?
Any kind of glue that glues glass globs
Will help the glass globs stick like glue.

By the time we all tried to say that, we were rolling on the floor laughing.

Sherry

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From owner-glass Fri Oct 18 07:19:10 1996
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X-Path: mars.superlink.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@mars.superlink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Band Saw
Date: Fri, 18 Oct 1996 10:13:08 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct18.6138.0>
References: <<199610180218.WAA05495@smtp1.sympatico.ca>>
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H. Taylor Buckner wrote:
> 
>         Many many thanks to all of you who took the time and trouble to
> respond to my queries about the band saw.  I'll try each and every one of
> your suggestions and see where they take me.  Mike Savad, I did try blowing
> the "sludge" away but I got so dizzy I had to stop cutting!  Jennifer
> 
> ----
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yeah i know that's the only week spot of the whole idea. usaully i blow
and memorize the next part. an idea that might work is to have a air
compressor with a small nozzle at the end, blowing at the work. it's a
little more complicated and noisy, but should work.

---Mike Savad

-- 
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http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
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From owner-glass Fri Oct 18 23:53:48 1996
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From: shyguy <shyguy@vdot.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Band Saw
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 1996 01:49:17 -0700
Message-ID: <1996Oct20.184917.0>
References: <<199610161555.LAA08803@smtp1.sympatico.ca>>
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H. Taylor Buckner wrote:
> 
>   Does anyone on this
> list have a Laser 3000, and if so, do you have the same problem?  How do you
> cope with it?  Any constructive suggestions and advice would be appreciated.
> Jennifer
>
I have a Gryphon, and have the same problem, but to a lesser degree, as
I can see the lines, but I use many different colors of markers to
maximize conrast to the pattern line vs. the glass. some one I know uses
a cheap aquarium air pump, with a piece of hose that points the air flow
on the glass in front of the blade. Rather than resrict the water, it
gets moved out of the way. Cheap fix for $15 or 20$, or free if you are
an ex-fish hobbiest. Since I'm pushing 50, and my eyes are not getting
better with age, I may be hooking something like this up in the near
future.
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From owner-glass Sat Oct 19 09:48:29 1996
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From: jroey@juno.com (Jerri M Roey)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Warner Crivellaro Problems
Date: Sat, 19 Oct 1996 12:46:59 EDT
Message-ID: <1996Oct19.164659.0>
References: <<199610180428.VAA24318@mtshasta.snowcrest.net>>
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Hi,

	Thanks to all those who responded about WC problems.  I'm glad
I'm not the only one.  After waiting 6-7 weeks for a back ordered sample
set of Kokomo, we called again to ask about it.  Finally someone told us
that they only get those sets once a year from Kokomo and they have no
idea when they'll be getting more.  The first time we called about it, we
were told "about 2 weeks." We canceled that order and put in an order to
Delphi.  Since we're finally getting a retailer in the area, I'm not as
interested anyway.  Funny thing was, two items I wanted from Delphi were
back ordered and they let me know right then how long they were
backordered and asked if I still wanted them.  It's a shame WC has such a
nice catalog.  I hope Delphi will start carrying a lot of the things in
there.  Maybe we should start a fan club.  Think we could get a group
discount?

Jerri
	-hoping our BRAVES will win the series, even though I'm not a big
baseball fan, it's fun to see everyone around here so excited. 
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From owner-glass Sat Oct 19 18:10:25 1996
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From: April Paine <vgplugs@primeline.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Waterglass
Date: Sat, 19 Oct 1996 21:14:28 -0700
Message-ID: <1996Oct19.141428.0>
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Organization: Victorian Greenhouse & Stained Glass
Precedence: bulk

Who has the best price on waterglass?
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From owner-glass Sat Oct 19 18:20:49 1996
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@mars.superlink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Waterglass
Date: Sat, 19 Oct 1996 21:15:22 -0400
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April Paine wrote:
> 
> Who has the best price on waterglass?
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

off hand i really don't know, i only buy glass from local stores. i
don't like dealing with catalogs for glass because of breakage, but
mainly i like to see the glass i'm getting.

---Mike Savad

-- 
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http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
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From owner-glass Sat Oct 19 19:43:55 1996
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From: jroey@juno.com (Jerri M Roey)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Waterglass
Date: Sat, 19 Oct 1996 22:42:44 EDT
Message-ID: <1996Oct20.24244.0>
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On Sat, 19 Oct 1996 21:15:22 -0400 "M. Savad" <morn@mars.superlink.net>
writes:
>April Paine wrote:
>> 
>> Who has the best price on waterglass?
>> ----

Hi April,

	Looking at my catalogs, I picked out the lowest priced sheets
(most of the glass is in the lower price):  
                Delphi           16x18"              $10.45    2 sq ft.
                 WC              24x24"              $14.70
         Glass Crafters       $4.95 sq ft or $4.20 sq ft. if you buy an
8-9' sheet

	Whittemore Durgin sells by the pound.  Too confusing for me. 
I've never bought from them.

	It looks like WC has the best price, but I've never ordered glass
from them.  They substitute if they don't have what you want in stock, so
be sure to specify if you don't want them to.  I received a post from
someone who told me they never knew what they were going to get,
glass-wise, when the ordered from WC.

Hope this helps.

Jerri
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From owner-glass Sun Oct 20 05:39:35 1996
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From: Joyce Moran <joyce@bright.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Waterglass
Date: Sun, 20 Oct 1996 08:34:04 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct20.4344.0>
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April Paine wrote:
> 
> Who has the best price on waterglass?
> ----


My prices run from $4.99/sf to $6.49/sf depending on the color, of 
course that doesn't include shipping.  I agree, when picking out glass, 
it is best to see the actual piece you are getting BEFORE you buy it, 
many have defects, that you may or may not be able to use.  Buy from 
your local retailer!

Garden of Glass
Joyce Moran
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From owner-glass Sun Oct 20 06:14:32 1996
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From: April Paine <vgplugs@primeline.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Waterglass
Date: Sun, 20 Oct 1996 09:18:37 -0700
Message-ID: <1996Oct20.21837.0>
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Organization: Victorian Greenhouse & Stained Glass
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Joyce Moran wrote:
> 
> April Paine wrote:
> >
> > Who has the best price on waterglass?
> > ----
> 
> My prices run from $4.99/sf to $6.49/sf depending on the color, of
> course that doesn't include shipping.  I agree, when picking out glass,
> it is best to see the actual piece you are getting BEFORE you buy it,
> many have defects, that you may or may not be able to use.  Buy from
> your local retailer!
> 
> Garden of Glass
> Joyce Moran

Hi,

Does anyone buy bulk wholesale waterglass?  Best price or quality 
manufacturer?
                            April
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From owner-glass Sun Oct 20 14:29:14 1996
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From: "James R. Laws" <jlaws@indy.net>
To: "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Black Patina
Date: Sun, 20 Oct 1996 16:26:08 -0500
Message-ID: <1996Oct20.11268.0>
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I just completed a job with a wide zinc frame.  When I applied the black
patina it went onto the solder lines perfectly but looks very splotchy
on the frame.  I steel wooled the fram before applying the patina.  Did
I do something wrong?  Any suggestions?  Will a zinc frame hold a black
enamel?  Help!
----
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From owner-glass Sun Oct 20 19:54:11 1996
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From: Phil Taylor <chip3@montana.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Black Patina
Date: Sun, 20 Oct 1996 20:30:03 -0700
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James R. Laws wrote:
> 
> I just completed a job with a wide zinc frame.  When I applied the black
> patina it went onto the solder lines perfectly but looks very splotchy
> on the frame.  I steel wooled the fram before applying the patina.  Did
> I do something wrong?  Any suggestions?  Will a zinc frame hold a black
> enamel?  Help!
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glassHi James,
There may be a couple of things you can do.  First, the black patina may 
be for solder and not zinc.  Even though the black patina for solder 
will turn the zinc black, it will look splotchy and will rub off easily. 
 I recommend that you use the patina just for zinc.

The other term you used, "enamel" -- I assume that you meant patina.

Anyway, using steel wool on zinc doesn't do that much because it doesn't 
oxidize quickly like lead, zinc and copper.  You do need to make sure 
that the zinc is clean.  I recommend you wipe it with rubbing alcohol to 
remove hand oils and such.  Wish you well  -  T.
----
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From owner-glass Sun Oct 20 23:19:26 1996
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From: jroey@juno.com (Jerri M Roey)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Black Patina
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 1996 01:47:23 EDT
Message-ID: <1996Oct21.54723.0>
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On Sun, 20 Oct 1996 16:26:08 -0500 "James R. Laws" <jlaws@indy.net>
writes:
>I just completed a job with a wide zinc frame.  When I applied the 
>black
>patina it went onto the solder lines perfectly but looks very splotchy
>on the frame.  I steel wooled the fram before applying the patina.  
>Did
>I do something wrong?  Any suggestions?  Will a zinc frame hold a 
>black
>enamel?  Help!

Hi,

	I've used black patina for zinc and it's terrible.  A couple of
us had the same question a while back and no one seems to get good
results using patina on zinc.  I did tin the zinc on one panel and then
patinaed it.  The tinning didn't go on smoothly, more like a textured
look, but it came out looking nice for that panel.  I've given up on
patina for zinc.

Jerri
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From owner-glass Mon Oct 21 05:57:52 1996
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From: delphigl@voyager.net (Delphi Stained Glass)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Fireplace Screens
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 1996 08:57:00 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <199610211257.IAA03865@vixa.voyager.net>
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Kathy,

>The fireplace screens in the "Stained Glass Basics" book are great, they
>are made by a couple of women who have a shop in Virginia.  My husband made
>a screen a couple of yrs. ago for my parents, measured the opening and went
>to a fireplace shop to check on the size of the screen needed.  Keep in
>mind that the ladies in VA are billing these screens as usuable, we will
>sell ours for beauty only, not to be used w/heat I don't think they will
>stand up to the heat.  You may want to talk with Marti the feature artist
>in "Stained Glass Basics"  she works out of  "A Touch of Glass" in
>Asheville, NC, and by the way is an excellent instructor, t/p 704 258-2749.

Thank you very much for this information!  I imagine that I will be in
contact with Marti soon!

Thanks again!
Stephanie
______________________________________________________________________
Stephanie Braman       **  E-mail:  delphigl@voyager.net
Delphi Stained Glass   **  WWW:     http://www.voyager.net/delphiglass
2116 E. Michigan Ave.  **  Voice:   1-800-248-2048 (USA,Canada)
Lansing, MI  48912     **           1-517-482-2617 (International)
USA                    **  Fax:     1-800-748-0374 (USA,Canada)
                                    1-517-482-4028 (International)
_____________________________________________________________________

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From owner-glass Mon Oct 21 06:32:30 1996
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@mars.superlink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Black Patina
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 1996 09:27:04 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct21.5274.0>
References: <<1996Oct20.11268.0>>
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James R. Laws wrote:
> 
> I just completed a job with a wide zinc frame.  When I applied the black
> patina it went onto the solder lines perfectly but looks very splotchy
> on the frame.  I steel wooled the fram before applying the patina.  Did
> I do something wrong?  Any suggestions?  Will a zinc frame hold a black
> enamel?  Help!
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

you'll need a patina that can stick to zinc. reg. black will go on but
also wipe right off. JAX pewter works pretty well. paint should stick
(as long as all the oxides are off, and maybe seal it first with shellac
or something), but may not match the solder.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
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From owner-glass Mon Oct 21 06:36:39 1996
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@mars.superlink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Black Patina
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 1996 09:31:19 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct21.53119.0>
References: <<1996Oct21.54723.0>>
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Jerri M Roey wrote:
> 
> On Sun, 20 Oct 1996 16:26:08 -0500 "James R. Laws" <jlaws@indy.net>
> writes:
> >I just completed a job with a wide zinc frame.  When I applied the
> >black
> >patina it went onto the solder lines perfectly but looks very splotchy
> >on the frame.  I steel wooled the fram before applying the patina.
> >Did
> >I do something wrong?  Any suggestions?  Will a zinc frame hold a
> >black
> >enamel?  Help!
> 
> Hi,
> 
>         I've used black patina for zinc and it's terrible.  A couple of
> us had the same question a while back and no one seems to get good
> results using patina on zinc.  I did tin the zinc on one panel and then
> patinaed it.  The tinning didn't go on smoothly, more like a textured
> look, but it came out looking nice for that panel.  I've given up on
> patina for zinc.
> 
> Jerri
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

since i've had simaler problems usally if the came is visable, i'll but
a semi-rough sponge texture on it. in which you drop hot solder blobs on
the zinc, then quickly, with a wet sponge, sploosh it down, splattering
the solder giving it a neat "semi-industrial, antiquey" look. al little
hard to polish though, theis methos is a modified use of grape vine
decorative soldering.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
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From owner-glass Mon Oct 21 08:06:25 1996
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From: Guitarshop@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Black Patina
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 1996 11:04:35 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct21.7435.0>
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Hello James:

      This is an on-going problem.  I wrote to  the group eariler asking the
same question.  The best results that I got involved a 2-part process.  Start
off by making sure the zinc is clean.  steel wool the zinc with 4-0 steel
wool. Clean the zinc again (rubbing alchol) to remove any residual oil left
 by the steel wool.  Next, apply a LEAD patina.  Wash off the piece
immediately.  When you wash the piece, most of the zinc patina will come off.
 Not to worry.  Dry the piece.  Next, apply the Zinc-Specific patina.  I
usually use a paint brush.  For some reason, applying the lead patina first
seems to pre-etch the zinc.  When the zinc patina is applied, it seems to
take better.  We just recently completed a project consisting of 36 12"x12"
panels, all of which we used the above described technique with mostly good
results.  Admittedly, some zinc strips just refuse to take a patina, no
matter what you do.  If you decide to use this technique, please let me know
how things turn out.

     Michael & Donna
     Shattered Images Studio
     Houston,TX.
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From owner-glass Mon Oct 21 09:43:57 1996
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Health and Safety - To Monona
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@mail.nildram.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 1996 17:15:22 +0000
Message-ID: <199610211641.RAA09399@linux.nildram.co.uk>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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Dear Monona,
Posting my appreciation and thanks for all to see.
Thank you for your invaluable Health & Safety Info re stained glass 
teaching, received in snail-mail this morning.
That was quite a package!
Believe it or not,  the conclusions I have reached during very recent 
travels around my own and neighbouring regions, talking/discussing to 
other stained glass teachers, is that there simply is NO such thing 
as a real Health & Safety implementation. What I hope to set up in my 
courses, will probably be the most extensive, comprehensive practice 
in the UK.
It is very clear, from initial first "scanning through", that rules & 
permissable practices are far stricter in USA than they are in UK.
It may come as a surprise to you, that "how I do things" , would 
probably have closed down my classes had they been in the USA, over 
here, other Colleges  are looking to ME as an example of implementing 
UK Health & Safety rules....No other stained glass instructor, for 
example, is a qualified First Aider. I make a point of emphasizing 
that I am and I also make a point of keeping my First Aid training 
up-to-date (That means a full-time 1-week's course every 2 years, for 
which I/my business pays). I also carry heavy-duty gloves and safety 
goggles for my courses. In UK for vocational courses, you can inform, 
provide and encourage use of "personal" safety accessories, but you 
cannot dictate. I think this is the subtle differences between our 
Continents.
About 15 years ago I was asked to act as an official interpreter for 
a Swedish Trade Union Delegation visiting the main Ford Car Factory 
in the UK. We spent about 3 solid days exploring the factory 
buildings, facilities, machinery and staff conditions. It was the 
height of fashion for young men to have long hair, they turned up at 
work with long shoulder-length hair. The young men stood over  super 
high-revolving machinery with their locks flowing. Their hair got 
caught up in the macchinery and there was quite a number of young men 
having their hair caught up in the machinery and being literally 
totally "descalped".  When the number of "descalped" young men became 
so large tha it became an embarrassement to the Company, they 
provided Company "hair-nets" for these young men. They stopped short 
of making it a "condition of employment". With the result that these 
macho chaps would neither cut their locks, but nor did they want to 
be seen "dead" wearing a hair-net.....
The Swedish Trade Union delegation ahhpen to arrive a week or so just 
after one such incident, where a young lad was recovering in 
hospital.
The Swedes were absolutely horrified and totally speechless, the 
Brits were embarrassed and tried evry which way to "dilute" the issue 
I was caught in the middle, because on the one hand, the Brits paid 
me, but on the other hand I myself horrified to see the what was 
going on in the "conveyor belt industry".
This little  eye-opener (and a number of others subsequently), AFTER 
my employment at Du Pont de Nemours in UK, where I had signed on the 
dotted line that I would be dismissed instantly without redress or 
recourse if I violated ANY of the Company's Health & Safety Rules.
My health screening, before I was allowed to be hired was so 
comprehensive, thorough and detailed, that it caused total 
incredulity amongst my family & friends in UK.  I was medically 
examined from toe nails to hair roots by London Harley Street 
Specialists, underwent x-rays after x-rays, tests after tests, that 
was totally unthinkable in the UK.  I went through a mandatory 
"health-screening" every 2 years; Du Pont paid for me to have private 
medical insurance (in UK in those days - virtually unheard of). They 
wern't satisfied that I had a UK driving licence, they  paid for me 
to have "Advanced Driving Tuition"; they even sent me on a special 
course run for  Police Drivers.
I know this was now some years ago, but even though  we advance a 
little bit, the RATIO  doesn't seem to change that much.
Du Pont educated me extremely well as regards Health & Safety .
College authorites in Further Education just simply have no idea 
whatsoever. Now they are beginning to "panic".
Many thanks, will come back to you directly for specific points.
Elisabeth
----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
----
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From owner-glass Mon Oct 21 15:44:23 1996
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X-Path: sympatico.ca!taylor_buckner
From: "H. Taylor Buckner" <taylor_buckner@sympatico.ca>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Black Patina
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 1996 18:43:32 -0400
Message-ID: <199610212243.SAA14322@smtp1.sympatico.ca>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

        Mike Savad,
        I was intrigued by your reference to "grape vine" decorative
soldering.  Could you expand on that technique a bit more?  And, by the way,
when you talk about the sponge-like texture being difficult to polish -- try
using an old tooth brush.  It's a bit tedious but it does get into all the
little grooves and dips.  Jennifer

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From owner-glass Mon Oct 21 17:55:41 1996
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X-Path: mars.superlink.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@mars.superlink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Black Patina
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 1996 20:50:11 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct21.165011.0>
References: <<199610212243.SAA14322@smtp1.sympatico.ca>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

H. Taylor Buckner wrote:
> 
>         Mike Savad,
>         I was intrigued by your reference to "grape vine" decorative
> soldering.  Could you expand on that technique a bit more?  And, by the way,
> when you talk about the sponge-like texture being difficult to polish -- try
> using an old tooth brush.  It's a bit tedious but it does get into all the
> little grooves and dips.  Jennifer
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


grape vine is my most favorite of decorative solderings. first put some
flux on the line, then get a hot blob of solder and place it on the
joint. while the solder is still in it's molton state press it quickly
with a wet sponge. the sponge sould be just wet enough to be able to
squeeze water out of it. the result is a rough looking splattered solder
look, and depending on where you push the solder it kind of looks like
hanging grapes. i like this one because it hides the most ugliest of
beads, and i was able to hide a very irregular joint with it. the tricky
part is polishing, the final shiny polish because it grabs the towel.
another thing to be carefull of is sharp peaks, you'll have to carefully
run your finger over the solder too feel for pointy spots. the feel
should be rough, and it should'nt bite. :)

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
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From owner-glass Tue Oct 22 04:52:09 1996
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	id m0vFfJ9-0000Lya; Tue, 22 Oct 96 04:47 PDT
X-Path: vladmire.voiceisp.net!mhooper
From: mhooper@vladmire.voiceisp.net (Mark Hooper)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Black Patina
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 1996 07:42:59 -0400
Message-ID: <v01540b00ae922c6bbd7d@[206.31.230.150]>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

At 4:26 PM 10/20/96, James R. Laws wrote:
>I just completed a job with a wide zinc frame.  When I applied the black
>patina it went onto the solder lines perfectly but looks very splotchy
>on the frame.  I steel wooled the fram before applying the patina.  Did
>I do something wrong?  Any suggestions?  Will a zinc frame hold a black
>enamel?  Help!

Hi James,
        Try mixing a teaspoon or a tablespoon (I can't recall) of salt with
8oz patina.

Apply, rinse, and let dry for a day...Hope this helps
Mark

|  The Tiffany Touch            |       mhooper@vladmire.voiceisp.net |
|                               |                                     |
|                               |
|
|  Altoona PA                   |                                     |


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From owner-glass Tue Oct 22 05:44:17 1996
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	id m0vFg85-0000m9a; Tue, 22 Oct 96 05:40 PDT
X-Path: sol.racsa.co.cr!rlaval
From: Richard LaVal <rlaval@sol.racsa.co.cr>
To: glass@bungi.com, medplant@sol.racsa.co.cr, amasters@sol.racsa.co.cr,
Subject: *** IMPORTANT ***
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 1996 06:36:25 -0600
Message-ID: <1.5.4.16.19961022061752.2f47b316@sol.racsa.co.cr>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

>Return-Path: <jlowther@seraph1.sewanee.edu>
>Date: Mon, 21 Oct 1996 18:07:17 -0500
>To: carl@dpilink.com, epbowman@ro.com, jhudsone@inreach.com,
>        102045.2210@CompuServe.COM, Ikoniclast@aol.com,
>        SYBIL TERRES GILMAR <73024.2035@CompuServe.COM>, costatravl@aol.com
>From: jlowther@seraph1.sewanee.edu (Jan Drake-Lowther)
>Subject: *** IMPORTANT ***
>Cc: rlaval@sol.racsa.co.cr, mlawton@ro.com, lowther@abs.net,
>        schne-l@arch.buffalo.edu, moyetoy@aol.com, MYB@cu220.nslsilus.org
>
>This message comes from a reliable source. Thought you might want to see it.
>
>Best,
>
>
>Jan
>
>
>
>>Date: Mon, 21 Oct 1996 15:20:13 -0400 (EDT)
>>X-Sender: jbaron@pop.interport.net
>>Mime-Version: 1.0
>>To: friedman@stevens-tech.edu, bmcgrath@stevens-tech.edu,
>>        pdonnell@stevens-tech.edu, icharisc@stevens-tech.edu,
>>        caddison@injersey.com, bsran@admin.nj.devry.edu,
>>        pjurkat@stevens-tech.edu, msteranc@stevens-tech.edu,
>>        carroll@rucs-admin.rutgers.edu
>>From: jbaron@interport.net (Joshua D. Baron)
>>Subject: *** IMPORTANT ***
>>Cc: lostow@unitedmedia.com, krotem@susie.ecs.umass.edu, LKlein13@aol.com,
>>        charlson@juno.com, zimbo@inlink.com, ctmead@connectinc.com,
>>        jmbaron@pipeline.com
>>
>>Hello all-
>>
>>        Thought everybody should read about this...FYI --> josh
>>
>>
>>>>X-Status:
>>>>
>>>>Guys, please read this message thoroughly. It could save you
>>>>a lot of money.
>>>>
>>>>Kirk
>>>>
>>>>V----------------------------------------------------------V
>>>>
>>>>******* SPECIAL ALERT *******
>>>>
>>>>===========================================================
>>>> SCAM:
>>>>
>>>> Don't Respond To Emails, Phone Calls, Or Pages Which Tell You
>>>> To Call An "809" Phone Number
>>>>===========================================================
>>>>
>>>>This is a very important issue of Internet ScamBusters! because
>>>>it alerts you to a scam that is spreading *extremely* quickly,
>>>>can easily cost you $100 or more, and is difficult to avoid
>>>>unless you are aware of it. We'd like to thank Paul Bruemmer and
>>>>Brian Stains for bringing this scam to our attention - both will
>>>>receive Internet ScamBusters! tee shirts.  This scam has also
>>>>been identified by the National Fraud Information Center and is
>>>>costing victims a lot of money.
>>>>
>>>>There are lots of different permutations of this scam, but here
>>>>is how it works:
>>>>
>>>>Permutation #1: Internet Based Phone Scam Via Email You receive
>>>>an email, typically with a subject line of "*ALERT*" or "Unpaid
>>>>account."  The message, which is being spammed across the net,
>>>>says:
>>>>
>>>>----------------------------------------------------------
>>>>I am writing to give you a final 24hrs to settle your outstanding
>>>>account. If I have not received the settlement in full, I will
>>>>commence legal proceedings without further delay. If you would
>>>>like to discuss this matter to avoid court action, call Mike
>>>>Murray at Global Communications on +1 809 496 2700.
>>>>----------------------------------------------------------
>>>>
>>>>Permutation #2: Phone Or Pager Scam You receive a message on your
>>>>answering machine or your pager which asks you to call a number
>>>>beginning with area code 809.  The reason to you're asked to call
>>>>varies: it can be  to receive information about a family member
>>>>who has been ill, to tell you someone has been arrested, died, to
>>>>let you know you have won a wonderful prize, etc.  In each case,
>>>>you're told to call the 809 number right away.
>>>>
>>>>Since there are so many new area codes these days, people
>>>>unknowingly return these calls.  If you call from the US, you
>>>>will apparently be charged $25 per-minute!  Sometimes the person
>>>>who answers the phone will speak broken English and pretend not
>>>>to understand you.  Other times, you'll just get a long recorded
>>>>message. The point is, they will try to keep you on the phone as
>>>>long as possible to increase the charges.  Unfortunately, when
>>>>you get your phone bill, you'll often be charged more than
>>>>$100.00.
>>>>
>>>>Here's why it works:  The 809 area code is located in the British
>>>>Virgin Islands (the Bahamas). The 809 area code can be used as a
>>>>"pay-per-call" number, similar to 900 numbers in the US.  Since
>>>>809 is not in the US, it is not covered by US regulations of 900
>>>>numbers, which require that you be notified and warned of charges
>>>>and rates involved when you call a "pay-per-call" number. There
>>>>is also no requirement that the company  provide a time period
>>>>during which you may terminate the call without being charged.
>>>>Further, whereas many US phones have 900 number blocking (to
>>>>avoid these kinds of charges), 900 number blocking will not
>>>>prevent calls to the 809 area code.
>>>>
>>>>We recommend that no matter how you get the message, if you are
>>>>asked to call a number with an 809 area code that you don't
>>>>recognize, investigate further and/or disregard the message.  Be
>>>>*very* wary of email or calls asking you to call an 809 area code
>>>>number.
>>>>
>>>>It's important to prevent becoming a victim of this scam, since
>>>>trying to fight the charges afterwards can become a real
>>>>nightmare. That's because you did actually make the call.  If you
>>>>complain, both our local phone company and your long distance
>>>>carrier will not want to get involved and will most likely tell
>>>>you that they are simply providing the billing for the foreign
>>>>company.  You'll end up dealing with a foreign company that
>>>>argues they have done nothing wrong.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>Please forward this entire issue of Internet ScamBusters! to your
>>>>friends, family and colleagues to help them become aware of this
>>>>scam so they don't get ripped off.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>Anne Douglas Milburn
>>>>Senior Producer
>>>>Time Warner Electronic Publishing
>>>>http://pathfinder.com/twep
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>-----------------------------------------------
>>Joshua D. Baron
>>Internet Curriculum Coordinator
>>Stevens Institute of Technology
>>Center for Improved Engineering and Science Education
>>Castle Point on Hudson
>>Hoboken, New Jersey  07030
>>URL: http://njnie.dl.stevens-tech.edu/~jbaron
>>Email: jbaron@interport.net
>>Voice: (201)216-8070  Fax: (201) 216-8069  Pager: (917) 738-9262
>>
>
>
>
>
Richard and Meg LaVal
apdo. 24-5655
Monteverde
COSTA RICA
tel: 506 645 5052

----
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From owner-glass Tue Oct 22 06:38:58 1996
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From: Roseanne Campbell <knowitall@worldnet.att.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: oval frames
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 1996 13:34:40 +0000
Message-ID: <1996Oct22.133440.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi,

Does anyone have a suggestion for a source for odd size oval frames? I'm
making the Madonna and Child picture that was in a 1981 Judy Miller
Christmas pattern book.  The picture itself is 153/8" by 203/8" and the
nearest standard frame is 16 by 20 inches.  I hate to recut half the glass
to make it fit this other frame and am not sure about the allowances on the
edges-if I do the edge in copper foil it won't change much but if I do the
edge in lead I'm not sure how to go about it or what the measurements would
be.  I've done this before but was able to find someone to make a frame to
fit and have moved away from my source.  Please help-this is for my Mom for
Christmas.                                                              

Thanks in advance for any help.  Also, I really appreciated all the replys
to my mosaic questions.

Roseanne

----
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From owner-glass Tue Oct 22 07:49:51 1996
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X-Path: mars.superlink.net!morn
From: "M. Savad" <morn@mars.superlink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: oval frames
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 1996 10:40:43 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct22.64043.0>
References: <<1996Oct22.133440.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Roseanne Campbell wrote:
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Does anyone have a suggestion for a source for odd size oval frames? I'm
> making the Madonna and Child picture that was in a 1981 Judy Miller
> Christmas pattern book.  The picture itself is 153/8" by 203/8" and the
> nearest standard frame is 16 by 20 inches.  I hate to recut half the glass
> to make it fit this other frame and am not sure about the allowances on the
> edges-if I do the edge in copper foil it won't change much but if I do the
> edge in lead I'm not sure how to go about it or what the measurements would
> be.  I've done this before but was able to find someone to make a frame to
> fit and have moved away from my source.  Please help-this is for my Mom for
> Christmas.
> 
> Thanks in advance for any help.  Also, I really appreciated all the replys
> to my mosaic questions.
> 
> Roseanne
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


well, lets see, if you go up a frame size larger, you can put an
adaptable glass border around it so it will fit the frame. and acually
that's all i can think of for the moment, to keep the piece "neat"
looking.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
----
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From owner-glass Wed Oct 23 04:48:51 1996
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Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6)
	id m0vG1n7-0001Ega; Wed, 23 Oct 96 04:48 PDT
X-Path: bright.net!joyce
From: Joyce Moran <joyce@bright.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: oval frames
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 1996 16:30:53 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct22.123053.0>
References: <<1996Oct22.133440.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Roseanne Campbell wrote:
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Does anyone have a suggestion for a source for odd size oval frames? I'm
> making the Madonna and Child picture that was in a 1981 Judy Miller
> Christmas pattern book.  The picture itself is 153/8" by 203/8" and the
> nearest standard frame is 16 by 20 inches.  I hate to recut half the glass
> to make it fit this other frame and am not sure about the allowances on the
> edges-if I do the edge in copper foil it won't change much but if I do the
> edge in lead I'm not sure how to go about it or what the measurements would
> be.  I've done this before but was able to find someone to make a frame to
> fit and have moved away from my source.  Please help-this is for my Mom for
> Christmas.
> 
> Thanks in advance for any help.  Also, I really appreciated all the replys
> to my mosaic questions.
> 
> Roseanne
> 


I have a local carpenter make mine.  He was able to make any oval, if 
you draw around the finished item, to give him a template.  He charges 
about $40.00 for a large oval frame, but that doesn't include the spline 
to hold it into place.  Where are you, and is shipping a concern?

Garden of Glass
Joyce Moran

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From owner-glass Wed Oct 23 06:43:33 1996
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	id m0vG3Yl-0000zba; Wed, 23 Oct 96 06:41 PDT
X-Path: aol.com!Guitarshop
From: Guitarshop@aol.com
To: Glass@bungi.com
Subject: New Webpage Info
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 1996 09:41:23 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct23.54123.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hello to All:

     Well I finally did it!  I finally set up our webpage.  I would
appreciate you all looking at it and giving me some feedback.  Please be
gentle, since this is my first time (for setting up a webpage). |;-)....

Michael & Donna
Shattered Images Studio
----
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From owner-glass Wed Oct 23 06:59:26 1996
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X-Path: intran.xerox.com!liz
From: liz@intran.xerox.com (Liz Lynch)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: New Webpage Info
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 1996 07:01:22 PDT
Message-ID: <9610231401.AA00913@moose.intran.xerox.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

First recommendation I have is to let us know the website address :)
(Or remind us if it's been sent before).

* 
* Hello to All:
* 
*      Well I finally did it!  I finally set up our webpage.  I would
* appreciate you all looking at it and giving me some feedback.  Please be
* gentle, since this is my first time (for setting up a webpage). |;-)....
* 
* Michael & Donna
* Shattered Images Studio
* ----
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From owner-glass Wed Oct 23 12:30:17 1996
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Newsgroup
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@mail.nildram.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 1996 20:01:11 +0000
Message-ID: <199610231927.UAA28803@linux.nildram.co.uk>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

From:          gshultz@post.cis.smu.edu (Gary Shultz)
To:            glass@bungi.com
Subject:       Re: Newsgroup
Date:          Wed, 16 Oct 1996 12:46:10 -0600
Reply-to:      glass@bungi.com

The Stained Glass Newsgroup is at rec.crafts.glass

=Gary

Thanks Gary,
for "computer nerds" like myself, could you please give the complete 
address......
Thanks
Elisabeth 'n Toby
>Is there a stained glass newsgroup?  How do I find it?  Thanks.
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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      ~(~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~)~
    ~~~) Gary Shultz - SMU News and Information (~~~
  ~~~~~( Tele. 214-768-7665   Fax: 214-768-7663 )~~~~~
~~~~~~~) ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~(~~~~~~~


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----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
----
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From owner-glass Wed Oct 23 12:30:19 1996
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: New Webpage Info
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@mail.nildram.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 1996 20:01:11 +0000
Message-ID: <199610231927.UAA28798@linux.nildram.co.uk>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi Donna,
Love to have a look at your new WEB-Site!!
But WHERE, oh WHERE?????
Elisabeth 'n Toby
----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
----
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From owner-glass Wed Oct 23 15:16:44 1996
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From: Jerry Cullingford <jc@selune.demon.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Newsgroup
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 1996 23:02:14 +0100 (BST)
Message-ID: <199610232202.XAA00949@gond.selune.demon.co.uk>
References: <<199610231927.UAA28803@linux.nildram.co.uk>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Elisabeth asked:
> The Stained Glass Newsgroup is at rec.crafts.glass
> 
> =Gary
> 
> Thanks Gary,
> for "computer nerds" like myself, could you please give the complete 
> address......
> Thanks
> Elisabeth 'n Toby

Er.. that *is* the complete adress. sort of :-).  You could try
"news:rec.crafts.glass" which might work, but most likely you'll
need to set up some newsreading software - netscape has a seperate
window for reading news (have a hunt through the menus); not sure
what/if microsoft internet explorer does.

In both cases, you probably need to tell the software where to find
a news server to get the articles from; unlike websites, where there's
a single source with a fixed address, news works like mail - copies
of the articles are passed from site to site; each site may have
different articles at any given instant, but they should eventually
get passed around to everywhere that's interested - whenever the
different news servers talk to each other, they exchange messages that
the other site hasn't seen; sometimes replies can show up before the
original article, if the reply travels by a faster route...

Usually, your internet service provider will provide access to a
news server as part of the service they provide, in the same sort
of way they provide a mail service. in the case of demon, my home
ISP, they have two servers - news.demon.co.uk for subscribers, and
pubnews.demon.co.uk for non-subscribers - but you'd probably do
best by checking with your service provider or technical guru :-).

-Jerry
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From owner-glass Thu Oct 24 07:13:51 1996
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X-Path: aol.com!Guitarshop
From: Guitarshop@aol.com
To: Glass@bungi.com
Subject: Well Duh!!!!
Date: Thu, 24 Oct 1996 10:11:07 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct24.6117.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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Sorry to All:

     I guess that I was so excited about finally getting the page to look
just right that I forgot to include the URL.  The URL is:

     HTTP://members.gnn.com/guitarshop

     Please don't hold my stupid omission against me.....

Michael & Donna
Shattered Images Studio
Houston,TX.
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From owner-glass Thu Oct 24 10:47:05 1996
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From: Philip McRae <phil7@tiac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: looking just right
Date: Thu, 24 Oct 1996 12:31:13 -0700
Message-ID: <1996Oct24.53113.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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Hey Michael & Donna

Wow, great work on your site. The large images are very clear, and large 
to boot.  Howard's should be as good.  Nice work on your projects, 
especially the 2 dollar base.

Your selection of projects shows concern for final pricing.  Not way, way
out in left field.  You are commended for a fine craft site.  Perhaps Al 
will recommend you be added to the Glass Line web site for a new link.

I've bookmarked you and will return often.

Phil7
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From owner-glass Thu Oct 24 11:26:25 1996
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From: Liz Linton <melinton@alison.sbc.edu>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Newsgroup
Date: Thu, 24 Oct 1996 14:22:20 -0500
Message-ID: <1996Oct24.92220.0>
References: <<199610232202.XAA00949@gond.selune.demon.co.uk>>
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Organization: Sweet Briar College Library
Precedence: bulk

> > for "computer nerds" like myself, could you please give the complete
> > address......
> > Thanks
> > Elisabeth 'n Toby

If you have access to the world wide web you can read all the newsgroups
at:
http://www.zippo.com/

The "naughty" groups (alt.) are restricted to Zippo members who pay--I
think the fee is $12 per year. But groups like rec.crafts.glass you can
read for free.
--Liz in central VA
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From owner-glass Thu Oct 24 12:37:40 1996
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From: "J. Hendershott" <jhendershott@macnet.com>
To: "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: No dumb llamas here
Date: Thu, 24 Oct 1996 12:44:09 -0700
Message-ID: <1996Oct24.5449.0>
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Just dumb owners. It's started to rain and she brought him right up to
the barn. They always come in during the day when it rains. She let
Lalique in the barn but Tawny isn't allowed in? Mom and baby are kushed
in the door watching the world go by. I turned off the florescent light,
and they seem to like that better. Maybe it makes a noise I can't hear?
No one came in the barn yesterday, even to eat hay (the light has been
on day and night since tuesday). Humm, interesting. Even Lew stayed out
yesterday, and now is in the barn, on his side. I'll have to test this
theory. Maybe I'll have to switch light fixtures.

I guess I'll just let them be llamas...they have brains enough to come
in out of the rain even if I don't. ;-)

Janie
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From owner-glass Thu Oct 24 13:33:33 1996
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From: "J. Hendershott" <jhendershott@macnet.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Boy did I get a wrong address
Date: Thu, 24 Oct 1996 13:39:19 -0700
Message-ID: <1996Oct24.63919.0>
References: <<1996Oct24.5449.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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Sorry about that gang, I guess you all can guess that I raise llamas in
addition to doing stained glass.  Stained glass llamas anyone? :-)

Janie

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From owner-glass Thu Oct 24 15:11:24 1996
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From: Guitarshop@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: looking just right
Date: Thu, 24 Oct 1996 18:09:46 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct24.14946.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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Hello Phillip:

     Thanks for the complements!  As I said, this is my first attempt at
setting up a web page.  I have been building, trouble-shooting, selling, and
repairing P.C.'s for about 8 yrs now.  I really felt dumb when I realized
that I had not included my URL for my web page.  We have only been doing
glass since Feb. '96, and I am glad to hear that we seem to be doing the
right things.  I decided not to price anything on my page.  I figure that if
someone is interested in purchasing something from us, they can Email the
request to me.

Thanks again for the complements,

Michael & Donna
Shattered Images Studio
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From owner-glass Thu Oct 24 19:55:41 1996
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X-Path: pilot.msu.edu!wrightk5
From: Kristen <wrightk5@pilot.msu.edu>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: glass blowing seminar/ courses
Date: Thu, 24 Oct 1996 22:58:01 -0700
Message-ID: <1996Oct24.15581.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Check out this site for a glass blowing class and several GOOD sites for
glassblowing.

http://www-personal.engin.umich.edu/%7Eeberhart/

it's a bit expensive for a college student and it is at that other
school, but i still may con the parental units into allowing me to
"further my education"

http://www.science.wayne.edu/~ddaenzer

is the site of a course offered at Wayne State University in the heart
of Detroit for the winter term 1997.

there may be more courses offered that can be found at the URL

http://www-personal.engin.umich.edu/%7Eeberhart/
 but I didn't check them out because their to far away for me.

Happy hunting,
-- 
[ Kristen                                                      ]       
[ wrightk5@pilot.msu.edu                                       ]
[                                                              ]
[ I speak for my self and only represent everything that I am. ]
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From owner-glass Fri Oct 25 02:58:03 1996
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From: Andrea King <aking@source.com.au>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Well Duh!!!!
Date: Fri, 25 Oct 1996 19:54:07 -0700
Message-ID: <1996Oct25.12547.0>
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Guitarshop@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Sorry to All:
> 


Michael and Donna

Visisted your site and enjoyed it immensly.  You did a great job of your 
only leaded panel.

Andrea
Melb, Aust

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From owner-glass Fri Oct 25 04:30:32 1996
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From: B J Snell <bjs10@cornell.edu>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Newsgroup
Date: Fri, 25 Oct 1996 07:28:55 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <2.2.16.19961025072932.34479d46@postoffice.mail.cornell.edu>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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>
>Thanks Gary,
>for "computer nerds" like myself, could you please give the complete 
>address......
>Thanks
>Elisabeth 'n Toby
                                        Elizabeth,  (and Toby)

                Try this if you have Netscape (2.01)  
                                Select "Window " from the Menu, then select
"Netscape
News".
                                In "Netscape News" select "File" , then "Add
Newsgroup"
Type in "rec.crafts.glass and select the "open" button.
                                Netscape will open this news group for
you.... trusting that your server subscribes to this group...... if not
follow the advise sent by
Jerry...... Hope this works.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Barbara J. Snell
Jansen's Dining, Cornell University
255-5960
bjs10@cornell.edu

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From owner-glass Fri Oct 25 07:07:59 1996
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From: Guitarshop@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Well Duh!!!!
Date: Fri, 25 Oct 1996 10:06:01 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct25.661.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Good-day Andrea:

     I've always wanted to say that to somebody..  I know, too much Crocodile
Dundee here <BG>.  Thank you for visiting our web site.  Like I said, it's my
first attempt at one.  I have been making a living for the past 8 years
repairing, building, and selling computers.  I apologize for not including my
URL in my announcement.  We have only been doing glass since Feb. '96.  I got
laid off from my last job (on Dec. 22nd) and needed something to occupy my
time.  I decided to take a class at a local glass shop.  It was supposed to
be a 6 week course, but after the first class, I decided that I could take it
from there.  I never went back for the other 5 classes.  I taught my wife
Donna, how to do stained glass.  She cut most of the backround glass for the
Tiffany Dragonfly lamp.  We used Youghagany glass to get as close to the
origional as possible.  I had a very hard time cutting that stuff.  I was
only able to get 2 of the 7 repeats done myself.  After that, every piece
that I tried to cut would shatter in my hands.  Donna asked if she could try
cutting it, and I gladly agreed.  She was able to cut out the 5 remaining
repeats in about 3 days. Well, gotta go for now.  I've always wanted a
"Global - Pen - Pal" down under.  I have always wanted to come over there and
visit you beautiful country.  Some day......

Thanks again for the complements, keep in touch,

Michael & Donna McGrew
Shattered Images Studio
Houston,TX.
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From owner-glass Fri Oct 25 08:09:31 1996
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From: April Paine <vgplugs@primeline.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Music to Work By
Date: Fri, 25 Oct 1996 11:13:22 -0700
Message-ID: <1996Oct25.41322.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Victorian Greenhouse & Stained Glass
Precedence: bulk

Personally- I like to play something like Liszt, Mozart or similar while 
I work- and turn the volume up (nearest neighbor is 1/2 mile away)-
a real luxury- Larry from Minore


Hi all,
 
Do you remember what you were listening to when you made your favorite 
stained glass piece?              April
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From owner-glass Fri Oct 25 11:51:01 1996
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From: Terry Biegler <tbiegler@OnlineToday.Com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Music to Work By
Date: Fri, 25 Oct 1996 13:50:38 -0500 (CDT)
Message-ID: <199610251850.NAA23981@online.OnlineToday.Com>
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At 11:13 AM 10/25/96 -0700, you wrote:
>Personally- I like to play something like Liszt, Mozart or similar while 
>I work- and turn the volume up (nearest neighbor is 1/2 mile away)-
>a real luxury- Larry from Minore
>
>
>Hi all,
> 
>Do you remember what you were listening to when you made your favorite 
>stained glass piece?              April
>----
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>
I always listen to Pink Floyd when working. It inspires me like no other
music, especially my Wish You Were Here cd, Shine On You Crazy Diamond in
particular.

Terry

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From owner-glass Fri Oct 25 14:13:45 1996
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From: krmcdonald@ucdavis.edu (Kathe R. McDonald)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Music to Work By
Date: Fri, 25 Oct 1996 14:11:55 -0700 (PDT)
Message-ID: <199610252111.OAA12122@peseta.ucdavis.edu>
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I'm sure I'm in the minority, but I like listening to the Dead.  I was a
child of the 60's....I too appreciate Pink Floyd cranked up and classical
as well.

Kathe R. McDonald
Office of Curricular Support
"Aint no time to hate." J. Garcia 1995


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From owner-glass Fri Oct 25 14:59:06 1996
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From: Shirley Suter <ssuter@intrastar.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re:  Music To Work By
Date: Fri, 25 Oct 1996 16:50:55 -0500
Message-ID: <1996Oct25.115055.0>
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Another child of the 60's here!!!!  Turn up the Floyd!!!  Crank up The
Dead loud enough for Jerry G. to hear it in heaven!!!  Today is a
Genesis, Eric Clapton and Bob Marley Day.  If I'm not dancing while I'm
working, the glass ain't happy!!!

My theory:  If the music's too loud....you're too darned old!!!!

Dancing with the glass and the cows,
Shirley Suter :)
Grapeland, Tx.
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From owner-glass Fri Oct 25 15:07:43 1996
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From: "Albert Lewis [IGGA]" <70544.3642@CompuServe.COM>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: Music to Drive By
Date: 25 Oct 96 18:05:00 EDT
Message-ID: <1996Oct25.2250.0>
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   >I always listen to Pink Floyd when working. It inspires me like no other
   >music, especially my Wish You Were Here cd, Shine On You Crazy Diamond in
   >particular.

Terry,

Play "The Wall" and I'll come visit.  I pop the CD into the player if I'm doing
any long distance driving and crank it up!  Wish I had a multi-CD player,
though, since it's two disks. <sigh>  Mahler's "Kindertotenlieder" is another
fave ... or Mozart's "Requiem,"  also loud.  Guess my tastes are kinda across
the map, eh? <g>

Albert
                __________________________________________
                Albert Lewis            Executive Director
                International Guild of Glass Artists, Inc.
                __________________________________________
                     http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/

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From owner-glass Fri Oct 25 15:52:35 1996
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From: "KARL L. PREISACH" <karlp@cetlink.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Music to work by...
Date: Fri, 25 Oct 1996 18:43:49 -0400
Message-ID: <199610252251.SAA13493@moltar.cetlink.net>
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Hi Yuns (a Pittsburgh expression),
     Also a child of the 60's. I enjoy the Beatles White Album, Jethro Tull
(Benefit or Aqualung) and anything by Emerson Lake and Palmer (First album,
Trilogy or Brain Salad Surgery). And of course most anything by Joplin or
Hendrix. If the music is rockin', don't come knockin'! 
"Have you ever been experienced? Well I am"

Karl P in SC

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From owner-glass Fri Oct 25 18:56:30 1996
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Music to Work By
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@mail.nildram.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 26 Oct 1996 02:26:55 +0000
Message-ID: <199610260153.CAA25386@linux.nildram.co.uk>
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Personally- I like to play something like Liszt, Mozart or similar while 
I work- and turn the volume up (nearest neighbor is 1/2 mile away)-
a real luxury- Larry from Minore


Hi all,
 
Do you remember what you were listening to when you made your favorite 
stained glass piece?              April
----
When I made the Dolphin (the one on my WEB-page), my loudspeakers 
were blaring out Vivaldi's guitarconcerto; when I made 6 panels in a 
chapel of a Catholic boarding school to commemorate a rather 
excentric benefactress, but one who had been quite a remarkable lady 
in her time, I played One of Vivaldi's Glorias. Shostakovich's Piano 
Concertos Nos 1 & 2 are also firm favourites of mine. The slow 
movements from both of these totally "sends" me.
When I'm experimenting, I dip back into my Swedish roots for musical 
"help". "Fiddly" bits and akward cuts are greatly helped by Bach, who 
also helps me when I'm sitting staring at a design that I have just 
started or am not happy with.
...my 2 cents worth....
Elisabetth 'n Toby

----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
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From owner-glass Fri Oct 25 18:56:30 1996
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Newsgroup
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@mail.nildram.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 26 Oct 1996 02:26:54 +0000
Message-ID: <199610260153.CAA25383@linux.nildram.co.uk>
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Wow!!!
Thanks everybody for  helping this "computer nerd" find her way 
through the Internet.
...And no... don't think I'll bother with the "naughty" sites, ... 
thanks all the same (Someone must obviously had had a "peep", if they 
could actually come up with membership fees for me!! ;-) ...No Names! )
Got dragged off by some friends tonight to a Greek Taverna. The food 
was great, but Jeez, you should have seen the belly-dancer who 
appeared at about midnight.  She made us really cringe so much, we 
just ended up laughing. 
Phew, what a way to earn a living - especially if you can't dance...
I think I'll stick to stained glass....
Elisabeth 'n Toby
----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
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From owner-glass Fri Oct 25 22:32:47 1996
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From: jroey@juno.com (Jerri M Roey)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Cutting irridized glass
Date: Sat, 26 Oct 1996 00:47:13 EDT
Message-ID: <1996Oct26.44713.0>
References: <<199610260153.CAA25386@linux.nildram.co.uk>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi,

	I have a question about cutting irridized glass.  I think I
remember reading not to cut on the irridized side, but what do you do
with a textured piece such as an irridized granite?  I don't want to
damage my cutter.  Isn't glass always irridized on the smooth side? 
Thought I'd better ask before I get some.

Thanks,  Jerri
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From owner-glass Fri Oct 25 23:33:48 1996
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From: Shirley Suter <ssuter@intrastar.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re:  Cutting irridized glass
Date: Sat, 26 Oct 1996 01:26:12 -0500
Message-ID: <1996Oct25.202612.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Intrastellar Internet Service & Suter's Stained Glass
Precedence: bulk

Hi Jerri & the rest of the gang!

I have personally cut at least a zillion miles of irridized glass on the
irridized side and have had absolutely no problems with it damaging my
cutter.

I do have one suggestion if you are new to irridized.  When grinding it,
use a worn portion of your grinder head.  If you have recently
re-positioned your grinder head and it is fresh and sharp, it will tend
to chip away the irridized edge of the glass and looks unsightly if you
are using a thin foil on the project.  I do this same thing when I am
grinding dichroic glass!

Have a day!
Shirley Suter
Grapeland, Tx.
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From owner-glass Sat Oct 26 06:30:16 1996
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From: mike  peck <summit-stained-glass@worldnet.att.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Music to Work By
Date: Sat, 26 Oct 1996 13:29:38 +0000
Message-ID: <1996Oct26.132938.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

At 09:11 PM 10/25/96 +0000, you wrote:
>I'm sure I'm in the minority, but I like listening to the Dead.  I was a
>child of the 60's....I too appreciate Pink Floyd cranked up and classical
>as well.
>
>Kathe R. McDonald


My two cents worth:  60's ROCK!  Doors, Dead, Hendrix, JJ, Beatles and
Stones, Clapton, any of these guys.  But, because I'm trying to run a
respectable retail operation, I have to keep the volume down.  

Later artists also worth mentioning:  Stevie Ray Vaughn, Led Zepplin,
Eagles,  ........... and even Hootie!

Mike Peck

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From owner-glass Sat Oct 26 06:58:00 1996
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From: "Hilary A. Bobker" <hilary@voicenet.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: WC problems
Date: Sat, 26 Oct 1996 08:22:39 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct26.42239.0>
References: <<9610141251.AA02201@falcon.cc.ukans.edu>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: HABit Fashion Services
Precedence: bulk

I have never had to mail order from WC because we live close enough to 
drive up whenever is necessary, so I can't reply to that. As a 
**store** they are great! Everything is displayed so that it is easy 
to see/find. The help is pleasant and after one visit remembered me by 
name! But the winner item of the store is the way the hobby sheets are 
displayed. They are in bookshelf like arrangements with each kind of 
glass in its own compartment. Above each compartment is about a 3"x 5" 
sample of the glass with a light behind it!! And they are arranged 
mostly by color. So everybody's reds are together, and everybody's 
greens, etc. It makes choosing a glass really easy...well, if you can 
get past the choice overload matter...;-} They also have an amazing 
collection of things/panels/lamps/suncatchers/everything under the sun 
on display. They have several TV's around with comfortable chairs and 
it is very easy to arrange to be able to watch a video from their 
collection for no charge!

It doesn't help the people outside the area, but if you live within 
driving distance of Allentown, it is worth the trip.

Hilary
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From owner-glass Sat Oct 26 07:50:53 1996
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From: "Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo" <104344.622@CompuServe.COM>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Music to work to
Date: 26 Oct 96 10:45:49 EDT
Message-ID: <1996Oct26.144549.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Depends on my mood, but some of the stuff I listen to:

Classical music: almost anything but particularly choral works like Gregorian
chant, Chanticleer, Kronos Quartet, J.S. Bach, Ralph V. Williams, Alan
Hovahness, John Adams, etc.  And even my own CD - "Gregorian Heritage" recorded
by the group I sing with, Voces Novae Et Antiquae (shameless plus).  And of
course, Philip Glass (sorry, I just couldn't resist this pun).

Pop: k.d. lang, Seal, Clannad (lots of Clannad), Joni Mitchell, the Police,
Beatles, Peter Gabriel

Jazz: Billie Holiday, Saturday Night Live Band, Sharri Winston

Enjoy!...Christie

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From owner-glass Sat Oct 26 10:02:35 1996
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X-Path: montana.com!chip3
From: Phil Taylor <chip3@montana.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Music to Work By
Date: Sat, 26 Oct 1996 10:36:41 -0700
Message-ID: <1996Oct26.33641.0>
References: <<1996Oct25.41322.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Chip3 Video
Precedence: bulk

April Paine wrote:
> 
> Personally- I like to play something like Liszt, Mozart or similar while
> I work- and turn the volume up (nearest neighbor is 1/2 mile away)-
> a real luxury- Larry from Minore
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> Do you remember what you were listening to when you made your favorite
> stained glass piece?              April
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glassHi,
I was listening to "Middle Aged Woman Blues" by Sapphire.  I highly 
recommend their album (Alligator label).  Mostly, though, I tune into 
our local NPR station and their programs are ususally what I want to 
listen to, from classic to jazz to native.  Thanks for asking, T. in 
Montana
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From owner-glass Sat Oct 26 11:09:36 1996
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@mars.superlink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Cutting irridized glass
Date: Sat, 26 Oct 1996 14:07:52 -0400
Message-ID: <1996Oct26.10752.0>
References: <<1996Oct26.44713.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Jerri M Roey wrote:
> 
> Hi,
> 
>         I have a question about cutting irridized glass.  I think I
> remember reading not to cut on the irridized side, but what do you do
> with a textured piece such as an irridized granite?  I don't want to
> damage my cutter.  Isn't glass always irridized on the smooth side?
> Thought I'd better ask before I get some.
> 
> Thanks,  Jerri
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


just cut it on the smoothest side, irridized stuff won't hurt the
cutter, i think they may have said that because there's always a
possibilty that you may chip the glass, but that mostly happens when
grinding. sometimes i wish they did coat it on the rough side, for
certain effects.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
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From owner-glass Sat Oct 26 14:53:40 1996
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From: 1091@nethawk.com (Sue Eiszler)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: The Case of the Cracking Glass
Date: Sat, 26 Oct 1996 17:52:35 -0400
Message-ID: <v01530500ae9835862881@[206.97.200.45]>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi All,
        I need your expertise.  I just finished two 'Old English Lanterns'
from the Lanterns for Home and Garden pattern book.  For those of you who
haven't seen the pattern, each side or door consists of 5 pieces: a 1"
border of 4 pieces surrounding a 3 x 7.5" clear piece.  The pattern calls
for initial assembly of the sides and door and then addition of cross
hatching on the clear center glass for decoration which is done with 7/32
black backed copper foil.  All went well and looked terrific  I used green
and clear waterglass on one and blue glue chip and clear waterglass on the
other.  After final assembly, while doing the initial cleaning, I realized
that several of the clear pieces had cracks running basically along the
lines of the cross hatching.  I also previously made another lantern of the
same pattern but did not use cross hatching decor and there was no cracked
glass.
        Did the heat from final assembly transfer somehow to the cross
hatching???  Before you wonder if I allowed everything to cool down before
cleaning, yes, I did <g>. Also, the pieces were not forced together in any
way.  I really do like the cross hatch effect but sure don't want to
construct another until I know what caused my problem.
        Thanks in advance.


Sue
1091@nethawk.com






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From owner-glass Sat Oct 26 19:55:15 1996
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From: "H. Taylor Buckner" <taylor_buckner@sympatico.ca>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Band Saw
Date: Sat, 26 Oct 1996 22:54:20 -0400
Message-ID: <199610270254.WAA23421@smtp1.sympatico.ca>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

        Here's a follow-up to my problem with the band saw that threw so
much water and glass powder onto the glass surface that I couldn't see where
I was cutting.  Shyguy posted a suggestion to use an aquarium air pump to
blow the water out of the way.  I bought one on sale for $40.00 Cdn. and
hooked it up.  IT WORKS!!  Thanks a million!  Jennifer

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From owner-glass Sun Oct 27 07:11:20 1996
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From: April Paine <vgplugs@primeline.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Music to work by
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 1996 11:14:18 -0800
Message-ID: <1996Oct27.31418.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Victorian Greenhouse & Stained Glass
Precedence: bulk

Hi all,

Thanks for all the feedback on "music to work by" seems like we all have 
something in common.  Pink Folyd could possibly achieve the same state as 
Gregorian Chants.  I also listen to James Taylor, Valvaldi and Baroque 
music.                                                      April
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From owner-glass Sun Oct 27 07:11:55 1996
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From: April Paine <vgplugs@primeline.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Terrarium patterns/came supplier
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 1996 11:15:35 -0800
Message-ID: <1996Oct27.31535.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Victorian Greenhouse & Stained Glass
Precedence: bulk

Hi all,

  
Does anyone know of a pattern book for terrariums? I'm also looking for a 
bulk supplier for came?     April
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From owner-glass Sun Oct 27 08:16:33 1996
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X-Path: cornell.edu!bjs10
From: "B. J. Snell" <bjs10@cornell.edu>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: soldering iron problem
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 1996 11:15:56 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <2.2.16.19961027112226.090fa28a@postoffice.mail.cornell.edu>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


, or there's a 
>soldering iron company on the net that has a technical section for such 
>questions.  They've been most helpful to me even though their irons are 
>designed for electrical soldering, on circuit boards and such.  Good 
>luck, T.
                       Dear T.
        Thanks for this information,   can you tell me what the net address
is for the soldering iron company that you referred to?   TIA
Barbara J. Snell
bjs10@cornell.edu

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From owner-glass Sun Oct 27 08:28:28 1996
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From: vnunit1@ix.netcom.com (RICK D VAUGHN)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Music to work by...
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 1996 08:27:53 -0800
Message-ID: <199610271627.IAA03243@dfw-ix4.ix.netcom.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I'm a west coast kid...Give me some of the local band HEART (the good 
old stuff from before the Bebe le Strange album) and I'm in fat city!  
Also do the classics- the Cannon in D Major by Pachabel preformed by 
the Canadian Brass up loud is one of my f
favorites! (makes the neighbors wonder)

My favorite story for all time has got to be the day that my teenage 
(16) daughter came down and told me to turn down the stereo...the music 
was too loud!

Teresa V
Color It Glass!
"Baracuda" by Heart 
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From owner-glass Sun Oct 27 08:35:53 1996
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From: vnunit1@ix.netcom.com (RICK D VAUGHN)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Cutting irridized glass
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 1996 08:35:23 -0800
Message-ID: <199610271635.IAA07138@dfw-ix11.ix.netcom.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

You wrote: 
>
>Hi,
>
>	I have a question about cutting irridized glass.  I think I
>remember reading not to cut on the irridized side, but what do you do
>with a textured piece such as an irridized granite?  I don't want to
>damage my cutter.  Isn't glass always irridized on the smooth side? 
>Thought I'd better ask before I get some.
>
>Thanks,  Jerri

The reason people are told not to cut on the irridized side is that it 
is more difficult to control the cutting process and the score is not 
as clean. However,the biggest problem with marking and cutting on the 
irridized side is that many of the markers used for transferring the 
pattern to the glass destroy the irridized finish.

Teresa V
Color It Glass!

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From owner-glass Sun Oct 27 08:41:06 1996
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From: "=?Windows-1250?Q?Grzegorz_Gier=B3owski?=" <michu-g@lodz.pdi.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: Music To Work By
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 1996 18:36:22 +0100
Message-ID: <199610271639.RAA30659@gryzmak.lodz.pdi.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Another child of  60's but with a twist towards jazz.
Rock is fine while working with glass-groups like Blood Sweat & Tears,
Chicago and alikes suites me well played loud especialy while grinding.
Oposite with designing-than it's more inspiring jazz-Coltrane,M.Davies,
Keith Jarret and classic like Chopin,Tschaikovski and other "moodies".
For glass choosing  there's nothing better than Ch.Corea-G.Burton
"Cristal silence".
How many faces one can have? How about  reverse ,inside sides of each?

Greg=20


----------
> From: Shirley Suter <ssuter@intrastar.net>
> To: glass@bungi.com
> Subject: Re:  Music To Work By
> Date: 25 pa=9Fdziernika 1996 22:50
>=20
> Another child of the 60's here!!!!  Turn up the Floyd!!!  Crank up The
> Dead loud enough for Jerry G. to hear it in heaven!!!  Today is a
> Genesis, Eric Clapton and Bob Marley Day.  If I'm not dancing while =
I'm
> working, the glass ain't happy!!!
>=20
> My theory:  If the music's too loud....you're too darned old!!!!
>=20
> Dancing with the glass and the cows,
> Shirley Suter :)
> Grapeland, Tx.
> ----
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From owner-glass Sun Oct 27 09:07:43 1996
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From: mike  peck <summit-stained-glass@worldnet.att.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Looking for Peep-Hole Material
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 1996 17:07:14 +0000
Message-ID: <1996Oct27.17714.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi All,

I have a request to do a door insert panel with a peep hole.  The pattern is
ala Frank Lloyd Wright with contrasting clear textures so I can design it to
accommodate a peep hole in some unobtrusive location.  But, I am wondering
if there is some material, other than the traditional peep hole from the
local hardware, that would be less obvious.  I have looked at a number of
jewels, but all seem to provide two-way viewing.  Two-way mirror would allow
someone outside to look into the house when the lights are on and the
customer wants total privacy.  Any ideas?

One thought I have is to use 3 or 4 peep holes in the pattern ..... like
jewels.  My thinking is that one peep hole may be obvious, but several (if
placed asthetically in the pattern) may not be so obvious.  Any comments on
this approach?

Mike Peck

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From owner-glass Sun Oct 27 10:00:17 1996
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From: Curt & Karen Shawkey <kshawkey@execpc.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Diegel Foiler
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 1996 12:00:19 -0600
Message-ID: <2.2.32.19961027180019.006829c4@mail.execpc.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I saw advertised in the "Stained Glass News" #33 on page 16, the Diegel
Foiler.  My glass shop does not handle it nor is it in any of their
catalogs.  Does anyone out there know where I can get one and how much do
they cost?  My friend has one and says its so much better than any other
type of foilers.  I welcome anyones thoughts and information on this.  The
ad says its made by Hoevel Manufacturing.

Karen

Check out the webpage for "The Westport Squares"
http://www.execpc.com/~kshawkey/

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From owner-glass Sun Oct 27 10:11:46 1996
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From: Joyce Moran <joyce@bright.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Diegel Foiler/Inland Foiler
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 1996 13:08:53 -0500
Message-ID: <1996Oct27.8853.0>
References: <<2.2.32.19961027180019.006829c4@mail.execpc.com>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Curt & Karen Shawkey wrote:
> 
> I saw advertised in the "Stained Glass News" #33 on page 16, the Diegel
> Foiler.  My glass shop does not handle it nor is it in any of their
> catalogs.  Does anyone out there know where I can get one and how much do
> they cost?  My friend has one and says its so much better than any other
> type of foilers.  I welcome anyones thoughts and information on this.  The
> ad says its made by Hoevel Manufacturing.
> I used this foiler at the convention in June, and was not impressed with 
it's features..the quality may be better than Inland's but Inland's 
foiler does another step by pushing the foil up on the sides.  You still 
have to burnish, but it eliminates me from slicing my finger on the foil 
edge the way I used to.  And the difference in the price is 
astronomical!  Around $55.00 for the Hoevel, or $20.00 for the Inland.  
I do not usually like Inland products, but in this case I believe that 
the additional features and the lower price are really an incentive to 
use this particular model.  As with all Inland products, it takes a 
little adjusting to get the wheels rolling smoothly, and practice to get 
the foil centered,  but I LOVE my Inland foiler.

Garden of Glass
Joyce Moran
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From owner-glass Sun Oct 27 11:13:10 1996
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From: "James R. Laws" <jlaws@indy.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Looking for Peep-Hole Material
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 1996 14:10:54 -0500
Message-ID: <1996Oct27.91054.0>
References: <<1996Oct27.17714.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

mike peck wrote:
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> I have a request to do a door insert panel with a peep hole.  The pattern is
> ala Frank Lloyd Wright with contrasting clear textures so I can design it to
> accommodate a peep hole in some unobtrusive location.  But, I am wondering
> if there is some material, other than the traditional peep hole from the
> local hardware, that would be less obvious.  I have looked at a number of
> jewels, but all seem to provide two-way viewing.  Two-way mirror would allow
> someone outside to look into the house when the lights are on and the
> customer wants total privacy.  Any ideas?
> 
> One thought I have is to use 3 or 4 peep holes in the pattern ..... like
> jewels.  My thinking is that one peep hole may be obvious, but several (if
> placed asthetically in the pattern) may not be so obvious.  Any comments on
> this approach?
> 
> Mike Peck
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

Sorry I can't help Mike but you did give me a bit of a shock.  When my
mail was listed in Netscape Mail your subject was shortened to read
"Looking for Peep-Hole Mate.."  I thought the group had suddenly taken a
whole new turn while I was on vacation.
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From owner-glass Sun Oct 27 11:22:24 1996
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From: "James R. Laws" <jlaws@indy.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Music to Work By
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 1996 14:20:03 -0500
Message-ID: <1996Oct27.9203.0>
References: <<1996Oct25.41322.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

April Paine wrote:
> 
> Personally- I like to play something like Liszt, Mozart or similar while
> I work- and turn the volume up (nearest neighbor is 1/2 mile away)-
> a real luxury- Larry from Minore
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> Do you remember what you were listening to when you made your favorite
> stained glass piece?              April
> ----

I frequently put on classical when I work but one of the wonderful
things about stained glass is that I don't hear anything while I am
working.  I have been doing glass as a hobby for about ten years.  I
have a very high stress job and I do stained glass because I have to
concentrate so hard that I can't think of anything else.  I am able to
shut out the world and just enjoy.
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From owner-glass Sun Oct 27 12:10:49 1996
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From: "Peggy W. Johnsen" <edupjohn@slonet.org>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Music to Work By
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 1996 12:06:31 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1996Oct27.4631.0>
References: <<1996Oct27.9203.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi Everyone.  Is no one going to 'fess up to County and Western?  What
about, "You can't have your Edith and Kate to?" or something more of a
concern such as, "Does your Bubble Gum lose its Flavor After Being on the
Bedpost Overnight?"  No, I am not serious.  Just thinking I enjoy reading
books to listening to 60's music.  Or was the whole play to find out if
stained glass folk were of class or a certain age group?  PJ from CA.

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From owner-glass Sun Oct 27 12:19:26 1996
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X-Path: CompuServe.COM!70544.3642
From: "Albert Lewis [IGGA]" <70544.3642@CompuServe.COM>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Buying bulk came
Date: 27 Oct 96 13:51:17 EST
Message-ID: <1996Oct27.185117.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


   >Does anyone know of a pattern book for terrariums? I'm also looking for a
   >bulk supplier for came?

April

I'm not sure what you mean by "bulk" (a ton at a time?), but you could try
buying direct from the manufacturer ... I know several large studios that buy
their came that way.  Here are some numbers:


 Mayfield Manufacturing               Canada Metal Company Limited
 P.O. Box 19397                       721 Eastern Avenue
 Birmingham AL 35219                  Toronto ON M4M 1E6
                                      Canada
 ......Phone: (205) 942-4242 in Alab  ......Phone: (416) 465-4684
 ......F ax: (205) 945-8704            ......F ax: (416) 465-8053

 Canfield Quality Solder              Cascade Lead Products, Ltd.
 1000 Brighton Street                 1614 West 75th Avenue
 Union NJ 07083                       Vancouver BC V6P 6G2
                                      Canada
 ......Phone: (908) 688-5050          ......Phone: (604) 261-8884
 ......F ax: (908) 688-6438            ......F ax:

 Chicago Metallic                     Coran-Sholes Industries
 4849 S. Austin Avenue                509 E. 2nd Street
 Chicago IL 60638                     Boston MA 02127

 ......Phone: (708) 563-4600          ......Phone: (617) 268-3780
 ......F ax: (708) 563-4552            ......F ax: (617) 268-0344

 DHD Metals, Inc.                     Fry Metals, Inc.
 1607-C General Arts Rd./PO Box 165   6th Avenue at 41st Street
 Conyers GA 30207                     Altoona PA 16602

 ......Phone: (404) 760-9404          ......Phone: (814) 946-1611
 ......F ax: (404) 760-9032            ......F ax: (814) 944-8094

 G.A. Avril Lead Products             Gardiner Solder Company
 PO Box 12050                         PO Box 488
 Cincinnati OH 45212                  Western Springs IL 60558

 ......Phone: (513) 731-5133          ......Phone: (312) 847-0100
 ......F ax: (513) 731-5135            ......F ax: (312) 847-2314

 Hondo Lead Manufacturing Company     Prism Glassworks, Inc.
 1018 E. Libra                        PO Box 482
 Tempe AZ 85283                       McFarland WI 53558

 ......Phone: (602) 894-3460          ......Phone: (608) 838-9878
 ......F ax:                           ......F ax: (608) 838-6061

 R. Lang Company                      Taracorp Industries Inc.
 8521 Thys Court                      1200 16th Street
 Sacramento CA 95828                  Granite City IL 62040

 ......Phone: (916) 387-1073          ......Phone: (800) 851-3300
 ......F ax: (916) 387-0767            ......F ax: (618) 451-9310

 Victory White Metal Company          Wensley Metal Products Co.
 6100 Roland Avenue                   1445 Osage Street
 Cleveland OH 44127                   Denver CO 80204

 ......Phone: (216) 271-1400          ......Phone: (303) 623-1341
 ......F ax:                           ......F ax: (303) 623-1341

 White Metal Rolling & Stamping       Willard Industries
 4501 Circle 75 Pky NW #F6300         101 New Bern St., PO Box 11815
 Atlanta GA 30339                     Charlotte NC 28220

 ......Phone: (603) 445-5511          ......Phone: (704) 523-1230
 ......F ax: (603) 445-2153            ......F ax: (704) 527-8580

 Beveldine/Camecraft
 12282 Monarch
 Garden Grove CA 92641

 ......Phone: (714) 379-9072
 ......F ax: (714) 379-9075

Hope that's helpful.

Albert
                __________________________________________
                Albert Lewis            Executive Director
                International Guild of Glass Artists, Inc.
                __________________________________________
                     http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/

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From owner-glass Sun Oct 27 13:14:33 1996
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From: April Paine <vgplugs@primeline.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Glass Wholesale Suppliers/manufacturers
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 1996 16:18:05 -0800
Message-ID: <1996Oct27.8185.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Victorian Greenhouse & Stained Glass
Precedence: bulk

Thanks Albert! You wouldn't happen to have a ready made list where 
all you have to do is push the button like that for glass too? Wouldn't
want to put you to any trouble but I'm looking for whsle glass suppliers
too.  April
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From owner-glass Sun Oct 27 14:01:57 1996
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X-Path: erols.com!stndglas
From: stndglas@erols.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Dragonfly software
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 1996 18:05:21 -0800
Message-ID: <1996Oct27.10521.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I'm thinking of buying the glass design software from Dragonfly.Has
anyone used it? Does it do what it claims? Would you recommend it?
Thanks.
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From owner-glass Sun Oct 27 14:54:29 1996
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From: "James R. Laws" <jlaws@indy.net>
To: "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Electro Plating
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 1996 17:52:18 -0500
Message-ID: <1996Oct27.125218.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I frequently see sun catchers that have been electro plated.  Where do
you find such equipment?  What does it cost.  Can anyone describe the
process?  Thanks
----
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From owner-glass Sun Oct 27 15:19:32 1996
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From: Kay Allen <fullspec@scv.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Terrarium patterns/came supplier
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 1996 15:17:35 -0800
Message-ID: <1.5.4.32.19961027231735.006bd824@mail.scv.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi April,
I found this book listed in one of my catalogs:  Patterns for Terrariums and
Planters by Wardell.  Hope this helps.  
Kay
>
>  
>Does anyone know of a pattern book for terrariums? I'm also looking for a 
>bulk supplier for came?     April
>----
>

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From owner-glass Sun Oct 27 16:07:51 1996
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From: April Paine <vgplugs@primeline.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Dragonfly software
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 1996 19:12:14 -0800
Message-ID: <1996Oct27.111214.0>
References: <<1996Oct27.10521.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Victorian Greenhouse & Stained Glass
Precedence: bulk

stndglas@erols.com wrote:
> 
> I'm thinking of buying the glass design software from Dragonfly.Has
> anyone used it? Does it do what it claims? Would you recommend it?

Hi,

Check out the posts over the last month.  I bought it.  I love it and 
would highly recommend it.  The tutorial is very easy to follow.  The 
program is designed so you don't have to be a rocket scientist to use it. 
It's application to stained glass is the best I've found.  The company 
plans to upgrade on it's shortcomings ie..exporting, importing.  The 
owner is prompt in responding to questions and is there for techinical 
support.    April
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From owner-glass Sun Oct 27 16:11:08 1996
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From: leestat <leestat@sm1.gte.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Cutting tip
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 1996 20:08:19 -0800
Message-ID: <1996Oct27.12819.0>
References: <<1996Oct27.125218.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Lee Boe
Precedence: bulk

Just a tip on cutting-I have a movable lamp w/100 watt bulb above my
cutting table.  Position the lamp a few inches above the glass surface
to warm the glass, then move lamp to cut.  The warm glass scores and
breaks much better, even fancy cuts.
Lee Boe
Rain-Boe's Creations
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From owner-glass Sun Oct 27 16:13:00 1996
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From: rodrigue dagenais <dagenais@limestone.kosone.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Electro Plating
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 1996 07:20:23 -0800
Message-ID: <1996Oct26.232023.0>
References: <<1996Oct27.125218.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: student
Precedence: bulk

James R. Laws wrote:
> 
> I frequently see sun catchers that have been electro plated.  Where do
> you find such equipment?  What does it cost.  Can anyone describe the
> process?  Thanks
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glassI'm not too sure for the process or equipment but try STEVE 
SCHAEFER<staingls@dware.net 
he should be able to help you.
keep me inform on your finding

-- 
Rod Dagenais.
napanee,ontario
canada
dagenais@limestone.kosone.com
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From owner-glass Sun Oct 27 16:48:38 1996
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From: Phil Taylor <chip3@montana.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: soldering iron problem
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 1996 17:13:49 -0700
Message-ID: <1996Oct27.101349.0>
References: <<2.2.16.19961027112226.090fa28a@postoffice.mail.cornell.edu>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Chip3 Video
Precedence: bulk

B. J. Snell wrote:

Dear T.
>         Thanks for this information,   can you tell me what the net address
> is for the soldering iron company that you referred to?   TIA
> Barbara J. Snell
> bjs10@cornell.edu
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

Hi Barbara,
The notation I have on the top of a document titled, "Metcal Technical 
Note: Extending Soldering Iron Tip Life" by Edwin OH, Product Manager 
and Doug Wilkerson, Tech. Svcs. Mgr. is --
	http://www.metcal.com/tchnotes/tipliftx.html
Hope that helps,  T. in Montana

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From owner-glass Sun Oct 27 17:13:03 1996
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@mars.superlink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: The Case of the Cracking Glass
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 1996 20:12:07 -0500
Message-ID: <1996Oct27.15127.0>
References: <<v01530500ae9835862881@[206.97.200.45]>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Sue Eiszler wrote:
> 
> Hi All,
>         I need your expertise.  I just finished two 'Old English Lanterns'
> from the Lanterns for Home and Garden pattern book.  For those of you who
> haven't seen the pattern, each side or door consists of 5 pieces: a 1"
> border of 4 pieces surrounding a 3 x 7.5" clear piece.  The pattern calls
> for initial assembly of the sides and door and then addition of cross
> hatching on the clear center glass for decoration which is done with 7/32
> black backed copper foil.  All went well and looked terrific  I used green
> and clear waterglass on one and blue glue chip and clear waterglass on the
> other.  After final assembly, while doing the initial cleaning, I realized
> that several of the clear pieces had cracks running basically along the
> lines of the cross hatching.  I also previously made another lantern of the
> same pattern but did not use cross hatching decor and there was no cracked
> glass.
>         Did the heat from final assembly transfer somehow to the cross
> hatching???  Before you wonder if I allowed everything to cool down before
> cleaning, yes, I did <g>. Also, the pieces were not forced together in any
> way.  I really do like the cross hatch effect but sure don't want to
> construct another until I know what caused my problem.
>         Thanks in advance.
> 
> Sue
> 1091@nethawk.com
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


my guess it would be thermal shock. since you did an overlay, the heat
is too much and could crack the glass. if it was only one line it could
be prevented, but since there was probably quite a few lines, there was
simply too much heat. next time, either do one line at a line carefully,
letting each line cool before doing the next. or cut seperate pieces.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
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From owner-glass Sun Oct 27 17:22:16 1996
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@mars.superlink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Looking for Peep-Hole Material
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 1996 20:21:18 -0500
Message-ID: <1996Oct27.152118.0>
References: <<1996Oct27.17714.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

mike peck wrote:
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> I have a request to do a door insert panel with a peep hole.  The pattern is
> ala Frank Lloyd Wright with contrasting clear textures so I can design it to
> accommodate a peep hole in some unobtrusive location.  But, I am wondering
> if there is some material, other than the traditional peep hole from the
> local hardware, that would be less obvious.  I have looked at a number of
> jewels, but all seem to provide two-way viewing.  Two-way mirror would allow
> someone outside to look into the house when the lights are on and the
> customer wants total privacy.  Any ideas?
> 
> One thought I have is to use 3 or 4 peep holes in the pattern ..... like
> jewels.  My thinking is that one peep hole may be obvious, but several (if
> placed asthetically in the pattern) may not be so obvious.  Any comments on
> this approach?
> 
> Mike Peck
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

i suppose one idea is to do a double panel (if it's small), because the
peep hole is so long. maybe you can pop out the lens and use that. or
use normal glass, and put a small door on it which would be opened from
the viewers side.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
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From owner-glass Sun Oct 27 17:30:20 1996
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@mars.superlink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Electro Plating
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 1996 20:29:22 -0500
Message-ID: <1996Oct27.152922.0>
References: <<1996Oct27.125218.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

James R. Laws wrote:
> 
> I frequently see sun catchers that have been electro plated.  Where do
> you find such equipment?  What does it cost.  Can anyone describe the
> process?  Thanks
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


i looked into it, it's easier to get it professionally done. the problem
lies when you have to coat it with copper and the only one that will
stick to solder is cyanide based, so it's pretty hazardas to work with.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
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From owner-glass Sun Oct 27 17:43:24 1996
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Music to Work By
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@mail.nildram.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 02:13:52 +0000
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 Oh Honestly Peggy!!    :-))

"Does your Bubble Gum lose its Flavor After Being on the
Bedpost Overnight?"
How about:
"I'm gonna wash that lamp right out of my hair!
or
"Flux gets in my eyes"
or
"Stand by your fan"
I myself may be "ancient" (old enough NOT to care!!),  but realized 
that there was an awful lot of music I forgot to include myself, 
(traditional jazz [Billy Halliday, Ella, Duke Ellington ,Satchmo et 
al), Rag,  Scott Joplin, soul, soft soul and much, much else).
So much Music that is "musical".....
I think one's musical tastes and development is not so much 
conditioned to "age", as it is to one's early musical exposure.
The same is true - I believe - as regards one's visual tastes and 
development. In my own stained glass, I am obsessed with 1) light, 2) 
colours and 3) simplicity , function and fluidity of line. All of 
this,  I can directly find explanations for from my Swedish 
back-ground and upbringing. I may live to be  100 (God forbid! - Yet 
my grandmother lived until she was 104!!), and I will probably NEVER 
lose my Swedish perspectives or frame of references...... (Oh 
Elisabeth!! , say my friends in sheer frustration; you are so  
SWEDISH!!!)
My musical development is therefore also a product of my own early 
exposure. It has nothing to do with "age".
In Britain we have a radio programme called "Dessert Island Discs". 
It's been running for about 40 years, and still going strong.  The 
idea is, that a "public figure" chooses 10 discs to take with them to 
a dessert island and  with which they may have to survive for the rest of 
their lives, ( + 1 book in addition to the Bible and the complete 
works of Shakespeare + 1 single luxury [which is restricted so as 
not to aid and abet escape]).
At 50+ that I now am, I know exactly what music would set me 
thinking, would set me dreaming, would set me creating, would set me 
singing, would set me meditating and would set me tripping the light 
fantastic across the sandy beaches...... (and what a silly sight THAT 
would be!)
But AGE??? Oh no, not ME!!
I think I must have managed to cram 4 life-times into my 50+ years and 
I don't regret ANY of them; if anything, I am probably "younger" than 
most of the teenagers growing up around me.
Age is the question of "mind over matter";
If you don't mind - it doesn't matter!!!
..... And if Music be the food of Love..... PLEASE play on......
Howzat Peggy....?    :-)
Elisabeth 'n Toby
----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
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From owner-glass Sun Oct 27 17:43:25 1996
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Looking for Peep-Hole Material
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@mail.nildram.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 02:13:52 +0000
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Hi James,

Please, may I be your "Peep-Hole Mate"  ...?    ;-)
Sorry, just couldn't resist....
What with belly-dancers, "naughty" sites and belly-dancers, what is 
the stained glass world coming to!!  ...??
Elisabeth ('n definitely NOT Toby... he wouldnt approve!)
----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
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From owner-glass Sun Oct 27 17:43:43 1996
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Dragonfly software
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@mail.nildram.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 02:13:53 +0000
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Hi,
Who are you, and what are you looking for from a dedicated stained 
glass soft-ware design programme?
Dragonfly have developed a design software programme specifically for 
 stained glass. As such, it has some rather helpful and "neat" 
features.  They are also excellent in providing "user guidance" and 
"after-sales guidance". Initially, their software was designed for 
use with Microsoft Windows 95; in the last 6 months they revived a 
project of a version for Windows 3.....
I am located in the UK and was requested to "evaluate" this last 
mentioned version. I run Windows 3.11 for Work Groups" .
I am a complete and utter "Computer nerd",  know about stained glass, 
but not a lot about computers, software or computer "drawing 
software".
>From April 96 until 31 August 96  I must have spent about 3-4 hours 
daily "nit-picking" with Dragonfly and making their life pretty 
tough. I had every question answered within  maximum 12 hours, hence 
on communication level  - in my  grading - they score 10 out of 10.
They DO have their limitations, but - from my own experience and   of 
such reported back to me by other stained glass people - Dragonfly is 
totally up-front about these, with  open and above board proposals 
and plans for the future.  Their approach to stained glass is really 
a stained glass approach - rather than a universal DRAWING approach 
(e.g. Corel.....)

Dragonfly is a bunch of computer specialists who have happened to 
fall in love with stained glass and decided to concentrate their 
soft-ware to be dedicated to the unique aspects of  stained glass 
designing. The POTENTIAL of such software is enormous, though - from 
their point of view - initially not desperately commercial.Their 
prices are very reasoonable, hence I  feel it's not a wasted 
investment. Their ONE weakness is that you cannot copy your own 
sketches, drawings onto the programme. But even this, they say they 
are working on to change..
As previously  posted, I have my notes & correspondence filed and 
"pull-out-able". If you have specific questions, spell them out to 
me and I will endeavour to answer or make Dragonfly answer.
I am known as a bit of a cynic and a Devil's Advocate.
I also call a spade a shovel.
Yet, I have been impressed with Dragonfly.
Let me know how you get on.
Let me know how else I can help...
Elisabeth 'n Toby
----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
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From owner-glass Sun Oct 27 17:43:47 1996
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Looking for Peep-Hole Material
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@mail.nildram.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 02:13:52 +0000
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Hi Mike (Peck),
Interestingly enough, I have found some iridized glass providing this 
1-way only view. There is also an iridized "clear" glass (can't 
remember who makes it...). 
It may be worth your while to experiment with this type of glass.
Let me know how you get on, as it is an interesting problem/idea...
Elisabeth 'n Toby
----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
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From owner-glass Sun Oct 27 17:55:18 1996
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@mars.superlink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Looking for Peep-Hole Material
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 1996 20:54:24 -0500
Message-ID: <1996Oct27.155424.0>
References: <<199610280140.BAA29997@linux.nildram.co.uk>>
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Toby wrote:
> 
> Hi Mike (Peck),
> Interestingly enough, I have found some iridized glass providing this
> 1-way only view. There is also an iridized "clear" glass (can't
> remember who makes it...).
> It may be worth your while to experiment with this type of glass.
> Let me know how you get on, as it is an interesting problem/idea...
> Elisabeth 'n Toby
> ----
> As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
> North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
> http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm
> ----
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

the iridized i think you might be thinking of might be bullseye matt
iridesent. as long as you get it in clear that is.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
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From owner-glass Sun Oct 27 18:17:27 1996
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: The Case of the Cracking Glass
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@mail.nildram.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 02:35:53 +0000
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Could be thermal shock. since you did an overlay, the heat
is too much and could crack the glass. if it was only one line it could
be prevented, but since there was probably quite a few lines, there was
simply too much heat. next time, either do one line at a line carefully,
letting each line cool before doing the next. or cut seperate pieces.

---Mike Savad
Yes Mike,
As so very often happens - you have taken the very words from  my 
mouth....
Elisabeth 'n Toby
----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
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From owner-glass Sun Oct 27 22:20:18 1996
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From: "H. Taylor Buckner" <taylor_buckner@sympatico.ca>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Terrariums
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 01:19:28 -0500
Message-ID: <199610280619.BAA14049@smtp1.sympatico.ca>
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        April,
        In addition to the "Patterns for Terrariums & Plants" by Randy &
Judy Wardell, which Kay Allen mentioned, there is also "Stained Glass for
Plants" by Luciano & Don Malmstrom, pub. by Hidden House, Palo Alto, Ca. In
the back of this book there is a list of other books published by Hidden
House including "Stained Glass Lamps & Terrariums", "Terrariums &
Aquariums", and "The 29.95 Greenhouse".  The Malmstrom book was published in
1977 so I'm not sure if you can still get it, or if Hidden House is still in
existence.  Good luck.  Jennifer

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From owner-glass Mon Oct 28 04:41:16 1996
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From: llutz <llutz@tpgi.com.au>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Music To Work By
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 22:41:20 +1000
Message-ID: <1996Oct29.84120.0>
References: <<199610271639.RAA30659@gryzmak.lodz.pdi.net>>
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> Another child of  60's but with a twist towards jazz.
> Rock is fine while working with glass-groups like Blood Sweat & Tears,
> Chicago and alikes suites me well played loud especialy while grinding.
> Oposite with designing-than it's more inspiring jazz-Coltrane,M.Davies,
> Keith Jarret and classic like Chopin,Tschaikovski and other "moodies".
> For glass choosing  there's nothing better than Ch.Corea-G.Burton
> "Cristal silence".
Not to make this too long- I'm a day late on all this- I like a lot of
the music mentioned (but not a jazz fan). However, if I put on something
like the Beatles, I find the words start distracting me at times.
Larry from Minore

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From owner-glass Mon Oct 28 04:42:41 1996
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From: "Albert Lewis [IGGA]" <70544.3642@CompuServe.COM>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Glass Wholesale Supplier
Date: 28 Oct 96 07:39:58 EST
Message-ID: <1996Oct28.123958.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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   >Thanks Albert! You wouldn't happen to have a ready made list where
   >all you have to do is push the button like that for glass too? Wouldn't
   >want to put you to any trouble but I'm looking for whsle glass suppliers
   >too.  April

April, set your browser to http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/ and click on
"Resources," about halfway down the page.  You'll find suppliers of glass in the
listings.

Albert
                __________________________________________
                Albert Lewis            Executive Director
                International Guild of Glass Artists, Inc.
                __________________________________________
                     http://www.bungi.com/glass/igga/

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From owner-glass Mon Oct 28 05:33:47 1996
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From:         mail <HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu>
To:           glass@bungi.com
Subject:      Re: Music to Work By
Date:         Mon, 28 Oct 96 08:27:12 EST
Message-ID:   <961028.083121.EST.HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu>
References: <<1996Oct25.41322.0>>
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And what do your fluxy fingers do to your tapes, cds and players?  I
just like to put on an oldies station on the radio.  Besides, my
favorite music is mostly on record (I'm a 60's folkie) and the record
player is in the dining room.
By the way, after soldering, what leaves your fingers feeling fresh
and clean when you wash up?

--
Dorothy Kalahan, Interlibrary Loan  (860) 679-2940  FAX (860) 679-4046
UCONN Health Center Library, POB 4003, Farmington CT 06034-4003
HCLADM02@UConnVM.uconn.edu
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From owner-glass Mon Oct 28 05:44:43 1996
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From: jc@crosfield.co.uk (Jerry Cullingford)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Looking for Peep-Hole Material
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 13:43:12 +0000 (GMT)
Message-ID: <9610281343.AA02220@crosfield.co.uk>
References: <<1996Oct27.17714.0>>
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Precedence: bulk

> I have a request to do a door insert panel with a peep hole.  [snip]
>  Two-way mirror would allow
> someone outside to look into the house when the lights are on and the
> customer wants total privacy.  Any ideas?

Basic optical theory: there's no such thing as one way glass/mirrors;
if light can pass through in one direction, it can pass through just
as esily in the other - so most so-called "one way" systems rely on the
fact that the viewers side is dark while the other side is lit, with a
very dark glass or (usually) semi-silvered mirror. That way, a small ammount
of light passes from the lit side to the dark side, which is enough for
someone on the dark side to see what's happening on the lit side, while
from the lit side, any light coming through from the dark side is hidden
by reflections from the lit side.

Unfortunately, this works in reverse for a peephole where the inside is
lit and the outside isn't - and in any case, there's no easy way to prevent
people noticing a shadow on (or lights coming on behind) a backlit piece of
glass.

Two possible suggestions: either (1) arrange for the outside to be brightly
lit (perhaps one of the PIR movement sensor security lights) and don't light
the interior - then semisilvered or iridised glass might work, as in a
normal "one way" system,

or (2) Look for alternatives to a human peephole - for example, you can get
some pretty small CCD video security cameras; these can be mounted externally
or possibly behind a clear glass section at the edge of the panel. I've seen
one with Infrared illumination built in (some IR LEDS, like a TV remote)
that even works in total darkness (B&W picture) - I'm not sure how well
glass transmits IR, so you might need to check that, but it should probably
be OK.   

-Jerry
-- 
   _|_   Jerry Cullingford      jc@crosfield.co.uk      (Work)
  / |    Hemel Hempstead, UK    jc@selune.demon.co.uk   (Home)
  \_|_                          jerry@shell.portal.com  (alternate)
\__/                            www.selune.demon.co.uk  (soon)
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From owner-glass Mon Oct 28 06:12:37 1996
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From: "Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo" <104344.622@CompuServe.COM>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>, "IGGA (Albert Lewis)" <70544.3642@CompuServe.COM>
Subject: Re: Dragonfly software review
Date: 28 Oct 96 09:07:43 EST
Message-ID: <1996Oct28.14743.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I purchased Dragonfly software and have used it sporatically in the past two
months.

Here's some pros/cons I've gathered from my own experiences, as well as others
on bungi.com and in the CompuServe Handcrafts/Glass forum who have also used it:

Pros:

o This software is specifically a stained glass drawing package, not a general
drawing package like Corel Draw or Harvard Graphics.  All features and functions
are based on stained glass drawing requirements.

o Good documentation.  Clear, easy to understand manual and good on-line support
through Dragonfly's web page.  Questions are answered usually within the day.
The support/development staff are very helpful.

o Good tutorial.

o Intuitive drawing features.  A few basic shapes to learn and then you're off
and designing.

o The program automatically stretches/contracts joints and supporting lines when
you reposition a part of the design.

o Lines can be set to show different came thicknesses, etc.

o Excellent grid.  This works really well when you have to design to specific
dimensions.  You can have the grid positions in inches or milimeters, and the
grid coordinates can be displayed all the time or hidden.  You can place points
at specific coordinates or by 'eyeballing' it.

o You can draw your design at any size (good zoom features) and print it out at
any size.  The print drivers are excellent.  If the design is larger than your
paper size, it automatically splits the design so that all you have to do is
tape it together.

o Affordable pricing (around $149 US).

Cons:

o There are some important features not included.  These are:
	- Text is non-existent.  So you cannot include pattern letters, or layout
signage with text.
	- Textures of glass (i.e. streaky, water, bubbles, etc.) not supported.
	- Does not support dashed, dotted, etc. line types.  Only supports
hairline type in solid mode.  It would be more useful if you could have
dashed/dotted lines to use as non-cutting reference lines (i.e. for text
placement, multi-sheet placement guides for fusing, etch lines, etc.).
	- Cannot save file as standard graphic format types (i.e. .bmg, .jpg,
.gif, etc.) for export into other graphic packages.  However, you can insert the
design by doing an "Edit", "Select All", "Copy" action, and then doing an
"Edit", "Paste Special" function in another package (like MicroSoft Works in my
case).
	- Only supports design of 2-D objects.  No boxes, lamps, etc. can be
designed, as far as I can tell.  Maybe someone has had better luck with this.

Next release:

o I've heard Dragonfly is working on the problem on import/export standard
graphic file formats.  To me, this is its weakest point.  I will be happy to see
this included.

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From owner-glass Mon Oct 28 08:27:25 1996
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From: Rebecca Smith <rwsmith@aristotle.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Music to Work By
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 11:09:11 -0600
Message-ID: <2.2.16.19961028112922.22e759de@aristotle.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi all:
I like reading the different types of Music that makes the world go round. I
turn on 50 and 60's Rock n' Roll. (Motown, Paul Revire and the Raiders,
Creedence Clear Water Revival, Steppenwolf, John Sebastian and last be
certainly not least the good ole downhome Blues.) Boy couldn't we all have a
major jam session!

Rebecca Smith (rwsmith@aristotle.net)

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From owner-glass Mon Oct 28 08:38:30 1996
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From: mike  peck <summit-stained-glass@worldnet.att.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Looking for Peep-Hole Material
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 16:18:22 +0000
Message-ID: <1996Oct28.161822.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


>Sorry I can't help Mike but you did give me a bit of a shock.  When my
>mail was listed in Netscape Mail your subject was shortened to read
>"Looking for Peep-Hole Mate.."  I thought the group had suddenly taken a
>whole new turn while I was on vacation.


Well, that certainly wasn't planned, but always happy to put a smile on your
face!

Mike (not Savad, I'm the other Mike) Peck

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From owner-glass Mon Oct 28 08:43:12 1996
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From: Kristen <wrightk5@pilot.msu.edu>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Music to work to
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 12:44:39 -0800
Message-ID: <1996Oct28.44439.0>
References: <<1996Oct26.144549.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

My music taste for any type of working situation is a random assortment
of Irish/Scottish, Jazz, Blues, swing,  hard rock or what ever mood
music I need. I my put in the Blues Brothers, Swing Kids, Ashley
MacIsaac (Scottish/Pop fiddle music), Irish Rovers, Aero Smith, Eric
Clapton, and Louis Armstrong. Then I hit Random and get just the right
blend of music I need. Even though I'm not a member of the 60's or 70's
generation I even listen to the tunes of the previous times. I can't
listen to too much of one type of music or I put it away for a bit
before I can listen to it again.

I, however, do not hear the music as I work, but when I take I break I
like to hear music. Maybe I need the music to subconsciously motivate
me.

-- 
[ Kristen                                                      ]       
[ wrightk5@pilot.msu.edu                                       ]
[                                                              ]
[ I speak for my self and only represent everything that I am. ]
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From owner-glass Mon Oct 28 08:50:08 1996
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From: Kristen <wrightk5@pilot.msu.edu>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: thank you
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 12:50:46 -0800
Message-ID: <1996Oct28.45046.0>
References: <<1996Oct9.54536.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Thank you for the suppliesrs addresses in you area. My dad only went to
W-c and didn't bring my niece because he has no patience to hold her
hand the hole time ( she is a rather active 3 year old).

He did like going to w-c again. It is a change from the glass and
supplies that we have here at Delphi ( I live in East Lansing).
-- 
[ Kristen                                                      ]       
[ wrightk5@pilot.msu.edu                                       ]
[                                                              ]
[ I speak for my self and only represent everything that I am. ]
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From owner-glass Mon Oct 28 08:59:59 1996
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From: "Peggy W. Johnsen" <edupjohn@slonet.org>
To: Toby <toby@northlights.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Music to Work By
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 08:53:57 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1996Oct28.05357.0>
References: <<199610280140.BAA29982@linux.nildram.co.uk>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi Toby:  Good chuckle from "your" Country Western Titles.  Are there
others?  I'll search out my old music and see what I can come up with.  I
do prefer to listen to audio books simply because working in SG and
listening/reading are my ideal ways to spend life.  PJ from CA.

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From owner-glass Mon Oct 28 09:00:36 1996
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From: mike  peck <summit-stained-glass@worldnet.att.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: The Case of the Cracking Glass
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 16:27:24 +0000
Message-ID: <1996Oct28.162724.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

At 01:12 AM 10/28/96 +0000, you wrote:
>Sue Eiszler wrote:
>> 
>> Hi All,
>>         I need your expertise.  I just finished two 'Old English Lanterns'
>> from the Lanterns for Home and Garden pattern book.  For those of you who
>> haven't seen the pattern, each side or door consists of 5 pieces: a 1"
>> border of 4 pieces surrounding a 3 x 7.5" clear piece.  The pattern calls
>> for initial assembly of the sides and door and then addition of cross
>> hatching on the clear center glass for decoration which is done with 7/32
>> black backed copper foil.  All went well and looked terrific  I used green
>> and clear waterglass on one and blue glue chip and clear waterglass on the
>> other.  After final assembly, while doing the initial cleaning, I realized
>> that several of the clear pieces had cracks running basically along the
>> lines of the cross hatching.  I also previously made another lantern of the
>> same pattern but did not use cross hatching decor and there was no cracked
>> glass.
>>         Did the heat from final assembly transfer somehow to the cross
>> hatching???  Before you wonder if I allowed everything to cool down before
>> cleaning, yes, I did <g>. Also, the pieces were not forced together in any
>> way.  I really do like the cross hatch effect but sure don't want to
>> construct another until I know what caused my problem.
>>         Thanks in advance.
>> 
>> Sue
>> 1091@nethawk.com

>
>my guess it would be thermal shock. since you did an overlay, the heat
>is too much and could crack the glass. if it was only one line it could
>be prevented, but since there was probably quite a few lines, there was
>simply too much heat. next time, either do one line at a line carefully,
>letting each line cool before doing the next. or cut seperate pieces.
>
>---Mike Savad
>
Also, a cold, wet sponge underneath the piece while you solder will act as a
heat sink and keep the glass a little cooler.

Mike Peck

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From owner-glass Mon Oct 28 09:27:46 1996
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X-Path: primeline.com!vgplugs
From: April Paine <vgplugs@primeline.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Dragonfly Stained  Glass Software Update
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 12:31:16 -0800
Message-ID: <1996Oct28.43116.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Victorian Greenhouse & Stained Glass
Precedence: bulk

Hi all,

I noticed an update on the Dragonfly site. They have now included the 
ability to use scanned images.  Check it out http://www.dfly.com 

                                        April
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From owner-glass Mon Oct 28 11:28:21 1996
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From: "Christie Wood & George D'Ascenzo" <104344.622@CompuServe.COM>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: Clean fingers
Date: 28 Oct 96 14:22:05 EST
Message-ID: <1996Oct28.19225.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Dorothy Kalahan asked <By the way, after soldering, what leaves your fingers
feeling fresh and clean when you wash up?>

I like Sunshine dishwashing liquid.  Cuts the grease, washes the glass, and gets
my fingers really clean.

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From owner-glass Mon Oct 28 13:49:46 1996
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From: jroey@juno.com (Jerri M Roey)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Music to Work By  and  hand cleaner
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 16:03:25 EST
Message-ID: <1996Oct28.21325.0>
References: <<1996Oct25.41322.0>>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi,

	I guess I'm the only one who listens to the baby monitor.  



>By the way, after soldering, what leaves your fingers feeling fresh
>and clean when you wash up?


	I really like "Fast Orange".  It comes in a gallon pump container
for about $8.00 at SAM's.

Jerri
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From owner-glass Mon Oct 28 15:09:25 1996
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Dragonfly software review
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@mail.nildram.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 23:39:59 +0000
Message-ID: <199610282306.XAA20667@linux.nildram.co.uk>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi all, especially Christie Wood
Christie, you did an excellent job on your summary review!!
My experience with other makes of drawing programmes is very limited, 
which made it difficult for me to make any kind of comparisons.

Interestingly enough, I brought up the subject with Dragonfly in 
June/July about not being able to  print text into the drawings. But 
I don't know if this is something they will be working on. On the 
whole, I know it won't be a disaster, if I haven't got it.

I find that I can use the "hairline" for outlining 3D-designs and 
using a slightly thicker line for the front lines that you can see.

I have as late as this evening received an e-mail from Dragonfly, 
telling me that their scanning facility will be released this or next 
week and that CURRENT customers will receive a free up-date.
I call that service..... That was the ONE only thing that "bugged" me 
about the Dragonfly package, as I am often out and about with a 
sketch-pad - or doodle on the back of damask serviettes..... ;-)
As I have said before, I like the package and am glad that you have 
"crystallized" so eloquently its pros and cons.
Elisabeth 'n Toby
----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
----
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From owner-glass Mon Oct 28 16:54:20 1996
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From: 1091@nethawk.com (Sue Eiszler)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: The Case of the Cracking Glass
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 19:52:43 -0500
Message-ID: <v01530503ae9b04db1e9c@[206.97.200.41]>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

>>my guess it would be thermal shock. since you did an overlay, the heat
>>is too much and could crack the glass. if it was only one line it could
>>be prevented, but since there was probably quite a few lines, there was
>>simply too much heat. next time, either do one line at a line carefully,
>>letting each line cool before doing the next. or cut seperate pieces.
>>
>Also, a cold, wet sponge underneath the piece while you solder will act as a
>heat sink and keep the glass a little cooler.

Someone suggested today that the waterglass might be the problem...if I had
used an even-surfaced glass, I might not have had the cracking????  The
only trouble is that I really life the effect of the candle flickering on
the waterglass...

Anyway, thanks for all the suggestions.  I'll let you know what works.

Sue
1091@nethawk.com






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From owner-glass Mon Oct 28 17:15:40 1996
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@mars.superlink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Music to Work By
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 20:13:42 -0500
Message-ID: <1996Oct28.151342.0>
References: <<961028.083121.EST.HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

mail wrote:
> 
> And what do your fluxy fingers do to your tapes, cds and players?  I
> just like to put on an oldies station on the radio.  Besides, my
> favorite music is mostly on record (I'm a 60's folkie) and the record
> player is in the dining room.
> By the way, after soldering, what leaves your fingers feeling fresh
> and clean when you wash up?
> 
> --
> Dorothy Kalahan, Interlibrary Loan  (860) 679-2940  FAX (860) 679-4046
> UCONN Health Center Library, POB 4003, Farmington CT 06034-4003
> HCLADM02@UConnVM.uconn.edu
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


i use rubber gloves when soldering, so i don't get flux on my hands.
normal soap should clean flux off of any other part of your body flux
lands on...hands, face, and the like. flux is just iritating stuff.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
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From owner-glass Mon Oct 28 17:28:43 1996
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@mars.superlink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: The Case of the Cracking Glass
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 20:26:38 -0500
Message-ID: <1996Oct28.152638.0>
References: <<v01530503ae9b04db1e9c@[206.97.200.41]>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Sue Eiszler wrote:
> 
> >>my guess it would be thermal shock. since you did an overlay, the heat
> >>is too much and could crack the glass. if it was only one line it could
> >>be prevented, but since there was probably quite a few lines, there was
> >>simply too much heat. next time, either do one line at a line carefully,
> >>letting each line cool before doing the next. or cut seperate pieces.
> >>
> >Also, a cold, wet sponge underneath the piece while you solder will act as a
> >heat sink and keep the glass a little cooler.
> 
> Someone suggested today that the waterglass might be the problem...if I had
> used an even-surfaced glass, I might not have had the cracking????  The
> only trouble is that I really life the effect of the candle flickering on
> the waterglass...
> 
> Anyway, thanks for all the suggestions.  I'll let you know what works.
> 
> Sue
> 1091@nethawk.com
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

water glass is'nt all that fragile (as glass goes anyway), however if
there was an internal flaw ithat could account for something, but not
likley seeing that it was spectrum.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
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From owner-glass Mon Oct 28 18:20:16 1996
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X-Path: montana.com!chip3
From: Phil Taylor <chip3@montana.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Dragonfly software
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 18:35:23 -0700
Message-ID: <1996Oct28.113523.0>
References: <<199610280140.BAA29988@linux.nildram.co.uk>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Chip3 Video
Precedence: bulk

Toby wrote:
> 
> Hi,
> Who are you, and what are you looking for from a dedicated stained
> glass soft-ware design programme?
> Dragonfly have developed a design software programme specifically for
>  stained glass. As such, it has some rather helpful and "neat"
> features.  They are also excellent in providing "user guidance" and
> "after-sales guidance". Initially, their software was designed for
> use with Microsoft Windows 95; in the last 6 months they revived a
> project of a version for Windows 3.....
> I am located in the UK and was requested to "evaluate" this last
> mentioned version. I run Windows 3.11 for Work Groups" .
> I am a complete and utter "Computer nerd",  know about stained glass,
> but not a lot about computers, software or computer "drawing
> software".
> >From April 96 until 31 August 96  I must have spent about 3-4 hours
> daily "nit-picking" with Dragonfly and making their life pretty
> tough. I had every question answered within  maximum 12 hours, hence
> on communication level  - in my  grading - they score 10 out of 10.
> They DO have their limitations, but - from my own experience and   of
> such reported back to me by other stained glass people - Dragonfly is
> totally up-front about these, with  open and above board proposals
> and plans for the future.  Their approach to stained glass is really
> a stained glass approach - rather than a universal DRAWING approach
> (e.g. Corel.....)
> 
> Dragonfly is a bunch of computer specialists who have happened to
> fall in love with stained glass and decided to concentrate their
> soft-ware to be dedicated to the unique aspects of  stained glass
> designing. The POTENTIAL of such software is enormous, though - from
> their point of view - initially not desperately commercial.Their
> prices are very reasoonable, hence I  feel it's not a wasted
> investment. Their ONE weakness is that you cannot copy your own
> sketches, drawings onto the programme. But even this, they say they
> are working on to change..
> As previously  posted, I have my notes & correspondence filed and
> "pull-out-able". If you have specific questions, spell them out to
> me and I will endeavour to answer or make Dragonfly answer.
> I am known as a bit of a cynic and a Devil's Advocate.
> I also call a spade a shovel.
> Yet, I have been impressed with Dragonfly.
> Let me know how you get on.
> Let me know how else I can help...
> Elisabeth 'n Toby
> ----
> As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
> North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
> http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm
> ----
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glassHi Elisabeth 'n Toby!
	Yes, I have a question or two about Dragonfly software.  I have 
their literature and am still mulling over a purchase.  For rectilinear 
designs, are the corners truly square?  Is the design the same dimension 
 top to bottom?  If I have to fit a piece into a predetermined size 
opening (i.e. a window, or cabinet door), can I adapt the design I like 
to fit these dimensions?  Does the follow-up tech support cost?
	Would appreciate your responses.  Thanks, T. in Montana


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From owner-glass Mon Oct 28 18:20:51 1996
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From: Phil Taylor <chip3@montana.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: After Soldering
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 18:45:20 -0700
Message-ID: <1996Oct28.114520.0>
References: <<961028.083121.EST.HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Chip3 Video
Precedence: bulk

mail wrote:
> 
> And what do your fluxy fingers do to your tapes, cds and players?  I
> just like to put on an oldies station on the radio.  Besides, my
> favorite music is mostly on record (I'm a 60's folkie) and the record
> player is in the dining room.
> By the way, after soldering, what leaves your fingers feeling fresh
> and clean when you wash up?
> 
> --
> Dorothy Kalahan, Interlibrary Loan  (860) 679-2940  FAX (860) 679-4046
> UCONN Health Center Library, POB 4003, Farmington CT 06034-4003
> HCLADM02@UConnVM.uconn.edu
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glassHi,
While soldering, I always wear disposable rubber gloves which I buy 
(cheaply) by the box from my local veterinarian.  I used to not wear the 
gloves, and even though I washed frequently and immediately after 
soldering, the flux, being an acid, made my hands rough.  It can't be 
avoided.  The rubber gloves I buy are cheap enough that if I want to 
remove one of them to change the stereo, then throwing one glove away is 
no big deal.   T. in Montana

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From owner-glass Mon Oct 28 19:51:58 1996
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From: leestat <leestat@gte.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: The Case of the Cracking Glass
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 23:48:56 -0800
Message-ID: <1996Oct28.154856.0>
References: <<v01530500ae9835862881@[206.97.200.45]>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Lee Boe
Precedence: bulk

Sue Eiszler wrote:
> 
> Hi All,
>         I need your expertise.  I just finished two 'Old English Lanterns'
> from the Lanterns for Home and Garden pattern book.  For those of you who
> haven't seen the pattern, each side or door consists of 5 pieces: a 1"
> border of 4 pieces surrounding a 3 x 7.5" clear piece.  The pattern calls
> for initial assembly of the sides and door and then addition of cross

I am interested in the solution too, am right in the middle of doing
this lantern myself-

If none other appears-I will use wet wash cloth underneath-and put on
the lines at the same time I solder the parts of each side, instead of
after assembly.  I'll let you know how this turns out.

Lee Boe
Rain-Boe's Creations
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From owner-glass Mon Oct 28 23:39:33 1996
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From: Shirley Suter <ssuter@intrastar.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re:  The Case of the Cracking Glass
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 01:32:30 -0600
Message-ID: <1996Oct28.193230.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Intrastellar Internet Service & Suter's Stained Glass
Precedence: bulk

Hey Sue, Hey Lee, Hey All!!!

In doing my kaleidoscope decorative soldering, I too had problems with
glass cracking from heat.  I have learned a trick that works
wonderfully.  I'm sure it will work on the lanterns too!

Rush right out to your friendly neighborhood craft store (Michael's,
Hobby Lobby, Crafts Etc.) and purchase a package of "Easy Solder Tin
Sheet". I found it in the model train department at Crafts Etc. and it
set me back a whopping $1.19 for a 4" x 6" sheet.  Grab your trusty tin
snips and cut a few strips the length that you need for your project. 
Careful, this stuff is sharper than glass!!

Flux the strips and build a nice solder bead on them.  If you have
problems with the solder trying to run to the backside of the strips,
before fluxing, coat the back of them with typewriter "White Out".  Tack
solder these strips on your assembled lantern.

Voila!!!  Works like magic!  ;)

Shirley Suter
Grapeland, Tx.
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From owner-glass Tue Oct 29 05:23:38 1996
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	id m0vIE8N-0000IZa; Tue, 29 Oct 96 05:23 PST
X-Path: UCONNVM.UCONN.EDU!HCLADM02
From:         mail <HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu>
To:           glass@bungi.com
Subject:      Re: Dragonfly software review
Date:         Tue, 29 Oct 96 08:19:20 EST
Message-ID:   <961029.082255.EST.HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu>
References: <<199610282306.XAA20667@linux.nildram.co.uk>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

A question...does it print "true" on standard printers?  My husband
has tried designing with another program (and my mind just went
blank), but it's really designed for printing on a plotter, so on
our printer, it only prints true in one direction, so that
circles become ovals...(ah, AutoCad Lite) (Our printer is a
Panasonic dot=matrix)

--
Dorothy Kalahan, Interlibrary Loan  (860) 679-2940  FAX (860) 679-4046
UCONN Health Center Library, POB 4003, Farmington CT 06034-4003
HCLADM02@UConnVM.uconn.edu
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From owner-glass Tue Oct 29 05:26:20 1996
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From:         mail <HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu>
To:           glass@bungi.com
Subject:      Re: The Case of the Cracking Glass
Date:         Tue, 29 Oct 96 08:24:03 EST
Message-ID:   <961029.082545.EST.HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu>
References: <<v01530503ae9b04db1e9c@[206.97.200.41]>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

How about making your overlay of pre-tinned twisted wire?  It'll
be different look, but still attractive.

--
Dorothy Kalahan, Interlibrary Loan  (860) 679-2940  FAX (860) 679-4046
UCONN Health Center Library, POB 4003, Farmington CT 06034-4003
HCLADM02@UConnVM.uconn.edu
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From owner-glass Tue Oct 29 06:01:27 1996
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X-Path: memach.com!lcbell
From: Linda Campbell <lcbell@memach.com>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: The BEST Music Ever
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 09:02:19 -0500
Message-ID: <1996Oct29.4219.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


The most relaxing, creative, thought provoking music I have ever listened 
to is Ray Lynch's "Deep Breakfast", specifically the tune called "Celestial 
Soda Pop". He has several other albums out, but this is by far his best. I 
swear, even before I even thought of doing stained glass I could listen to 
his music and my mind's eye would see splashes of colors changing like a 
kaliedoscope. Nope, never done drugs, just music.

Linda Campbell

begin 600 WINMAIL.DAT
M>)\^(AH.`0:0" `$```````!``$``0>0!@`(````Y 0```````#H``$-@ 0`
M`@````(``@`!!) &``@!```!````# ````,``# #````"P`/#@`````"`?\/
M`0```#T`````````@2L?I+ZC$!F=;@#=`0]4`@````!G;&%S<T!B=6YG:2YC
M;VT`4TU44 !G;&%S<T!B=6YG:2YC;VT`````'@`", $````%````4TU44 ``
M```>``,P`0```! ```!G;&%S<T!B=6YG:2YC;VT``P`5# $````#`/X/!@``
M`!X``3 !````$@```"=G;&%S<T!B=6YG:2YC;VTG`````@$+, $````5````
M4TU44#I'3$%34T!"54Y'22Y#3TT``````P``.0`````+`$ Z`0````(!]@\!
M````! ````````-\*P$(@ <`& ```$E032Y-:6-R;W-O9G0@36%I;"Y.;W1E
M`#$(`02 `0`4````5&AE($)%4U0@375S:6,@179E<@!"!@$%@ ,`#@```,P'
M"@`=``D``@`3``(`&@$!(( #``X```#,!PH`'0`(`#H`%P`"`%4!`0F `0`A
M````-#0U-CA$1C0U0S,Q1# Q,4)"13 P,$1$,#$Q-3DU0S@`# <!`Y &`(P#
M```2````"P`C```````#`"8```````L`*0```````P`V``````! `#D`(#7(
MS*'%NP$>`' ``0```!0```!4:&4@0D535"!-=7-I8R!%=F5R``(!<0`!````
M%@````&[Q:',O_2-5D4Q7!'0N^ `W0$5E<@``!X`'@P!````!0```%--5% `
M````'@`?# $````2````;&-B96QL0&UE;6%C:"YC;VT````#``80; MO2 ,`
M!Q!E`0``'@`($ $```!E````5$A%34]35%)%3$%824Y'+$-214%4259%+%1(
M3U5'2%104D]63TM)3D=-55-)0TE(059%159%4DQ)4U1%3D5$5$])4U)!64Q9
M3D-(4R)$14500E)%04M&05-4(BQ34$5#249)0P`````"`0D0`0```!D"```5
M`@``M (``$Q:1G6#>_)1_P`*`0\"%0*H!>L"@P!0`O()`@!C: K <V5T,C<&
M``;#`H,R`\4"`'!R0G$1XG-T96T"@S-W`N0'$P* ?0J ",\)V3OQ%@\R-34"
M@ J!#;$+8.!N9S$P,Q10"PH4414+\F,`0" *A51H9;8@!& 3P" 6$ M@> N 
M"&<L( 4`96%T:21V91QP=&@(8&=HPP5 $U!O=F]K'$$;D,)U`)!C($D@$8 <
M\&P@91SP!<!L! `3T&XS"8 =(&\@! `'\&%Y4"!,>6X1<"<$("(B1 G@<"!"
M'*%K9LIA$\ B''!S< 60!I ['H '0&P@@!TP&X!T=<\?P!R (L$?T2)#' `'
MD \<T = !@`$<&$@4&_@<"(N($@;@!& !"!W$; ?,221;R,1!< '0&+L=6T$
M( A@=!QP)N %0/<=," Q(#%B(( AT 7 )]*^8B11)5 >L /@'+!R''#_'R$#
MH"CP`A 6$!ZA*>,=-N!O9B!D;QX2$\ +<3T?T6<+8 01'K %H'5L?Q_@'W0?
M\B?2'E0`<!_@;94@@&T+@&0@\65Y&X#^=RTS$; ;@") ++$;<"<1?RN@%8,$
M(!%Q&1 >$A]P:_L;@"3P:P= ") KP 3P)2#Z92503C-!'' ?P!\R*\"I(W%D
M<AU@<QQP:AY@VP5 'E,N"H4*A4PO023P\$-A;7 H\"+0"H45,0(`.# ````#
M`! 0``````,`$1 `````0 `'," $R#^AQ;L!0 `(," $R#^AQ;L!'@`]``$`
,```!`````````(WP
`
end

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From owner-glass Tue Oct 29 06:13:16 1996
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X-Path: aol.com!Guitarshop
From: Guitarshop@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Music to work by
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 09:12:37 -0500
Message-ID: <1996Oct29.41237.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hello To All:

    I know I'm a little late in responding to the questionaire but,  my
favorite "glassic" music ranges from Lynyrd Skynyrd, Jeff Beck, Atlanta
Rythtm Section, Tower of Power, and Blood, Sweat, and Tears.  Being a
musician, my musical tastes range to both ends of the spectrum.

Michael & Donna
Shattered Images Studio
Houston,TX.
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From owner-glass Tue Oct 29 06:13:51 1996
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From: Guitarshop@aol.com
To: Glass@bungi.com
Subject: Thanks To All!!!!
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 09:12:37 -0500
Message-ID: <1996Oct29.41237.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

     Just wanted to take a moment to thank all of you that have taken the
time to visit our web site.  Thanks for all of the nice complements.  I have
tried to respond to all those who contacted us directly.  If I have missed
responding you personally, I apologize.  I will be adding some new photos to
the site in the next few weeks, so feel free to visit often.

Thanks Again,

Michael & Donna 
Shattered Images Studio
Houston,TX.
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From owner-glass Tue Oct 29 06:54:00 1996
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@mars.superlink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: The Case of the Cracking Glass
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 09:52:56 -0500
Message-ID: <1996Oct29.45256.0>
References: <<1996Oct28.154856.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

leestat wrote:
> 
> Sue Eiszler wrote:
> >
> > Hi All,
> >         I need your expertise.  I just finished two 'Old English Lanterns'
> > from the Lanterns for Home and Garden pattern book.  For those of you who
> > haven't seen the pattern, each side or door consists of 5 pieces: a 1"
> > border of 4 pieces surrounding a 3 x 7.5" clear piece.  The pattern calls
> > for initial assembly of the sides and door and then addition of cross
> 
> I am interested in the solution too, am right in the middle of doing
> this lantern myself-
> 
> If none other appears-I will use wet wash cloth underneath-and put on
> the lines at the same time I solder the parts of each side, instead of
> after assembly.  I'll let you know how this turns out.
> 
> Lee Boe
> Rain-Boe's Creations
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

that may not work either, it's because of the size and the amount of
solder you have to put on the glass is the problem. even if the glass
remained cool with a cloth on the bottom, the glass may still crack do
to thermal shock, only this time it maybe more localized to right under
the line. in the other case where the glass broke, their could have been
a hairline crack in the edge, due to a number of reasons, and the heat
just helped it along. when doing your lines it would'nt hurt if you used
a quick setting solder, like quickset, or ultimate. the problem lies
when the solder is sitting on the glass "wet", if it set up faster it
may help.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
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From owner-glass Tue Oct 29 07:19:07 1996
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X-Path: MMAC.IS.LMSC.LOCKHEED.COM!Rund#m#_Sharen
From: "Rund, Sharen" <Rund#m#_Sharen@MMAC.IS.LMSC.LOCKHEED.COM>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: OOF: RE: The Case of the Cracking Glass
Date: 29 Oct 1996 07:22:30 U
Message-ID: <1996Oct28.232230.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hello, I'm away from the office but will be returning on 11/4/96

If you have any questions or problems, please contact Mike Fabel
----
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From owner-glass Tue Oct 29 08:34:26 1996
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From: UURESPES@ECUVM.CIS.ECU.EDU
To: Glass@bungi.com
Subject: First stitches
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 11:34:48 -0500
Message-ID: <1996Oct29.63448.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Sniff, sniff.  I have just experienced my first eight stitches as a result in working 
with glass for over two years now.....

I pulled a sheet of glass off the counter and it sliced my knee big time! Ouch!
I was lucky this time.  If it wasn't for dumb luck........
----
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From owner-glass Tue Oct 29 09:56:40 1996
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X-Path: intrastar.net!ssuter
From: Shirley Suter <ssuter@intrastar.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: First stitches
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 11:49:27 -0600
Message-ID: <1996Oct29.54927.0>
References: <<1996Oct29.63448.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Intrastellar Internet Service & Suter's Stained Glass
Precedence: bulk

UURESPES@ECUVM.CIS.ECU.EDU wrote:
> 
> Sniff, sniff.  I have just experienced my first eight stitches...

OUCH!!!  Sending cyber-kisses to your boo-boo!!! <kiss, kiss>

Shirley
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From owner-glass Tue Oct 29 09:58:16 1996
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X-Path: ucdavis.edu!krmcdonald
From: krmcdonald@ucdavis.edu (Kathe R. McDonald)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Easter Visit to Chartres in France - UPDATE
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 09:57:49 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <199610291757.JAA27996@peseta.ucdavis.edu>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi Elizabeth. I did book my tickets for Easter, but I guess I need to
change them. I booked RT to DeGaulle. I didn't realize we'd start in
England. Course I could land there and then head west and hook up with you
guys.  Also, I guess I need to change my dates.  I arrive 3/19 and depart
4/1. Sounds like I need to move it forward a couple of weeks.  I thought
I'd give myself a few days to check out some wineries and look around a
bit.  Maybe I'll try to reschedule my arrival around 3/25 and depart France
after the 5th.  You asked for our intentions....
Kathe McDonald, 9613 Old Bridle Ct. Sacramento, CA 95827 USA Phone 916)
366-8731  Work fax: 916) 734-7958
E-mail: krmcdonald@ucdavis.edu

Kathe R. McDonald
Office of Curricular Support
"Aint no time to hate." J. Garcia 1995


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From owner-glass Tue Oct 29 13:38:40 1996
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X-Path: nethawk.com!1091
From: 1091@nethawk.com (Sue Eiszler)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: First stitches
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 16:38:13 -0500
Message-ID: <v01530501ae9c282de459@[206.97.200.55]>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

>Sniff, sniff.  I have just experienced my first eight stitches as a result
>in working
>with glass for over two years now.....
>
Ooooh, sorry.

After you are all healed up, why don't you get a tatoo which looks like a
stained glass project you particularly liked making - that way you can
cover the stitch marks and scar <g>.  It certainly would be a unique knee.

Sue
1091@nethawk.com






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From owner-glass Tue Oct 29 14:27:11 1996
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@mars.superlink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: First stitches
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 17:25:51 -0500
Message-ID: <1996Oct29.122551.0>
References: <<1996Oct29.63448.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

UURESPES@ECUVM.CIS.ECU.EDU wrote:
> 
> Sniff, sniff.  I have just experienced my first eight stitches as a result in working
> with glass for over two years now.....
> 
> I pulled a sheet of glass off the counter and it sliced my knee big time! Ouch!
> I was lucky this time.  If it wasn't for dumb luck........
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


ewww i guess that was a little messy...i know of someone who reached
into the glass bin, only to find out that the corner of the sheet nearly
went through her hand.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
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From owner-glass Tue Oct 29 17:05:57 1996
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X-Path: tznet.com!DIACCA
From: Topp Shop & Gallery <DIACCA@tznet.com>
To: Glass@bungi.com
Subject: Listening? here's what!
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 19:04:30 -0600
Message-ID: <1.5.4.32.19961030010430.0067f5c0@mail.tznet.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

HI!  I know I have been lurking again.  Murphy's Law has been presiding over
the residence AND shop!  Still trying to catch up.  BUT!  I really feel
sorry for you all listening to RECORDS?  We here in Wisconsin listen to
Wisc. Public Radio, the oldest public radio in the nation.  We have two
services here abouts, one with Classical Music and News and the other
Information network and News.  I listen to the Information Network most of
the time,  everything from cooking (our passionate field) to Astophysics!
But! Now with the election so close to hand, I defer to CD's mostly Marion
McPartland!  Some Brubeck, and some old Smithsonian recordings of old stuff.
My Favorite!  Erskine Hawkins and "After Hours!"  Real down and
dirty...........Pat

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From owner-glass Tue Oct 29 17:10:30 1996
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X-Path: mail.nildram.co.uk!glass
From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: OOF: RE: The Case of the Cracking Glass
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@mail.nildram.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 01:40:33 +0000
Message-ID: <199610300107.BAA32529@linux.nildram.co.uk>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

From:          "Rund, Sharen" <Rund#m#_Sharen@MMAC.IS.LMSC.LOCKHEED.COM>
To:            glass@bungi.com
Subject:       OOF: RE: The Case of the Cracking Glass
Date:          29 Oct 1996 07:22:30 U
Reply-to:      glass@bungi.com

Hello, I'm away from the office but will be returning on 11/4/96

If you have any questions or problems, please contact Mike Fabel
----
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..I think you have missed the boat.... 11/4/96 was a long time ago.
Anyhow, what is your message supposed to mean.....??
Elisabeth 'n Toby
----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
----
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From owner-glass Tue Oct 29 17:10:31 1996
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Thanks To All!!!!
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@mail.nildram.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 01:40:32 +0000
Message-ID: <199610300107.BAA32523@linux.nildram.co.uk>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi Michael & Donna,
I too have visited your new WEB site. Like the fact that you kept it 
nice and simple. Very straight forward and easy photography. Liked 
the little details complementing your pictures. As a "lead"-person 
liked your balloon panel; also liked the fact that you gave 
dimesnions (which I freely admit, is lacking in my own....) 
I will look very much forward to seeing your next  all-lead panel.....
Well Done!!
Elisabeth 'n Toby
----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
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From owner-glass Tue Oct 29 17:10:32 1996
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: First stitches
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@mail.nildram.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 01:40:33 +0000
Message-ID: <199610300107.BAA32532@linux.nildram.co.uk>
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Precedence: bulk

.  I have just experienced my first eight stitches as a result in working 
with glass for over two years now.....

I pulled a sheet of glass off the counter and it sliced my knee big time! Ouch!
I was lucky this time.  If it wasn't for dumb luck........
----
Yep!!!
That is what glass will do!
Never, Ever get complacent about GLASS. It can KILL.
I look at my own hands, I have already received (loving) lectures 
from "Glass@Bungi" people in how badly I treat my own person.
I have cuts & grazes on my hands, but - so far - even I respect glass 
sufficiently to avoid those "first stitches".
Let's hope Monona is asleep or away.....
OUCH, in deed!!            (Are you OK??).
Please learn from this experience and TEACH caution. When I FINALLY 
get myself across to USA, I want celebration parties - not 
funerals....!
Thank you for sharing this with us.
Elisabeth 'n Toby

----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
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From owner-glass Tue Oct 29 17:10:34 1996
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re:  The Case of the Cracking Glass
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@mail.nildram.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 01:40:33 +0000
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Hi Shirley (Suter),

 <"Model Train Department....">

Watching from "Across the Pond" as I do,  I often have quick 
solutions to problems posed, but which are totally useless to you 
folks "over there". (Hence I more often than not keep quiet).

How delighted I then feel, when I see  inventiveness, imagination and 
improvisation ideas put forward, that really IS universal. What a 
lovely example you posted of improvisation and using what youv'e got 
around you, if you can't get the real (?) thing.
Congratulations Shirley!
.... and I thought that I had imagination...!!! Thank you for your 
input.
Elisabeth 'n Toby
----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
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From owner-glass Tue Oct 29 17:10:34 1996
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Easter Visit to Chartres in France - UPDATE
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@mail.nildram.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 01:40:33 +0000
Message-ID: <199610300107.BAA32542@linux.nildram.co.uk>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi Kathe,
Delighted to hear from you.
Can't wait to meet up with you!!!
Yep, you will need to change the dates.
But whether or not you wish to make  your "base" France or not, I 
must leave entirely to you. But then, in France, I can't help you 
that much. You are not alone from the "Glass@Bungi" Group from the 
USA coming over, by the way. So far, there are another 3-4 people 
who have actually bought their tickets. There are another 2-3 people 
"balancing their finances" in anticipation. 
Easter is one big vacation period in Europe. Easter next year falls 
into the  the last days of March. Against this had to be balanced 
religious pilgrims from Europe and elsewhere who will/would/might 
pour into Chartres. Hence the  period for OUR journey there has been 
fixed for the week immediately AFTER the Easter Days. Price-whise, 
people-whise, weather-whise, holiday-whise that was the most 
advantageous compromise. 
I was aware of the fact that you were considering joining us from 
France. From your money point-of-view, I would have no control over 
what you  would be charged for accommodation in France. If you chose 
to join us here in the UK, I have a better chance of making sure you 
get a good deal.
Thank you for your address. Noted and wil be dealt with.
As I have said before, the "under-writing" body of this journey is a 
college  in my area, where I teach stained glass. The Adult Education 
Manager of this College is a pint-sized, but dynamic American woman, 
called Judy Robinson. She's "The Boss"..
She and I will be discussing the next stage of this Project within the 
next 10 days. 
The probable result will be that each interested person will be asked 
to put down a deposit on/around Christmas time. That deposit is 
likely to be in the range of UK=A3.50.oo.
We have the transport, route and accommodation already sorted. We can 
make arrangements to pick you up in France, but it would be greater 
fun to have you with us from the starting post......
Develop your plans and let me know your details as and when you 
fix them up....
Elisabeth
----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
----
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From owner-glass Tue Oct 29 17:15:08 1996
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From: "Kathy Sagy" <reflections@brinet.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: Boy did I get a wrong address
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 21:11:11 -0600
Message-ID: <199610300217.VAA05282@bones.brinet.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I'll be happy to have my spouse commission a Stain Glass llamas, Just give
us a call!!

----------
> From: J. Hendershott <jhendershott@macnet.com>
> To: glass@bungi.com
> Subject: Boy did I get a wrong address
> Date: Thursday, October 24, 1996 2:39 PM
> 
> Sorry about that gang, I guess you all can guess that I raise llamas in
> addition to doing stained glass.  Stained glass llamas anyone? :-)
> 
> Janie
> 
> ----
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From owner-glass Tue Oct 29 17:22:54 1996
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From: "Kathy Sagy" <reflections@brinet.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: Diegel Foiler
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 21:18:55 -0600
Message-ID: <199610300225.VAA05312@bones.brinet.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Check w/Glass Giraffe, 704-456-6665, they also have a toll free # not sure
what it is, they ship anywhere and are also producing a stain glass video
series that is great.  Tell Jeff that Kathy & Todd sent you, wait till
after the 8th to call, he's gone to NY to produce the series.

----------
> From: Curt & Karen Shawkey <kshawkey@execpc.com>
> To: glass@bungi.com
> Subject: Diegel Foiler
> Date: Sunday, October 27, 1996 12:00 PM
> 
> I saw advertised in the "Stained Glass News" #33 on page 16, the Diegel
> Foiler.  My glass shop does not handle it nor is it in any of their
> catalogs.  Does anyone out there know where I can get one and how much do
> they cost?  My friend has one and says its so much better than any other
> type of foilers.  I welcome anyones thoughts and information on this. 
The
> ad says its made by Hoevel Manufacturing.
> 
> Karen
> 
> Check out the webpage for "The Westport Squares"
> http://www.execpc.com/~kshawkey/
> 
> ----
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From owner-glass Tue Oct 29 17:30:06 1996
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From: "David J. Loundy" <David@Loundy.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: First stitches
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 19:27:33 -0500
Message-ID: <v03007801ae9c511fa67b@[204.148.86.107]>
References: <<199610300107.BAA32532@linux.nildram.co.uk>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

At 1:40 AM +0000 10/30/96, you wrote:


>.  I have just experienced my first eight stitches as a result in working
>with glass for over two years now.....
>
>I pulled a sheet of glass off the counter and it sliced my knee big time!
>Ouch!
>I was lucky this time.  If it wasn't for dumb luck........
>----

I seem to remember reading somewhere the very true statement that "with
stained glass everything you use is either hot, sharp, or toxic."

--David--



____________________________________________________________________
David J. Loundy            | E-Mail: David@Loundy.com
                           | WWW: http://www.Loundy.com/
  "The moving walkway is   | Phone: (847) 926-9744
   about to end.  Please   | Listserv (for my Technology Law column):
        look down."        |  Send a message reading "subscribe"
        --Anon.            |  to Loundy-request@netural.com
____________________________________________________________________


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From owner-glass Tue Oct 29 18:26:31 1996
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From: maruca@netaxs.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: OOF: RE: The Case of the Cracking Glass
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 21:25:46 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1996Oct29.162546.0>
References: <<199610300107.BAA32529@linux.nildram.co.uk>>
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11/4 is November 11th  en los EEUU.

M


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From owner-glass Tue Oct 29 19:56:07 1996
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From: Monona Rossol <75054.2542@CompuServe.COM>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Jerri's hand cleaner
Date: 29 Oct 96 22:54:03 EST
Message-ID: <1996Oct30.3543.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk



> I really like "Fast Orange".  It comes in a gallon pump container > for about
$8.00 at SAM's. <

I recommend against the use of this product.  It contains d-limonene a solvent
extracted from citrus rinds that is very toxic.  It has an EPA pesticide
registration as a fly killer and EPA has proposed to remove from its current use
in small amounts as a flavor in food because it is ucsually ontaminated with
pesticides from the spraying of the citrus fruit--especially the pesticide
imazalil.

A few years ago, the American Industrial Hygiene Association set a workplace
environmental air quality (WEEL) standard for it because OSHA is not doing
anything about it.  Here's where it fits in terms toxicity by inhalation of
other solvents--the smaller the number, the less is considered safe to inhale by
healthy adult workers.



SOLVENT...............standard in parts/million....Agency ethyl
alcohol..................1000 ppm............OSHA
acetone.........................750................OSHA odorless paint
thinner..........300................OSHA Turpentine, xylene,
etc.........100................OSHA Toluene, n-hexane,
etc...........50................OSHA
d-limonene.......................30................AIHA


When Fast Orange first came out it was 25 % d-limonene.  I sent the MSDS to FDA
and filed a formal complaint.  I believe the product now contains about 10 % and
whether that was because of the complaint or not, I don't know.

I especially don't like d-limonene in a hand cleaner because it is a skin
irritant and sensitizer, especially when it gets old and oxidizes.

As for cleaning--it sure will do a good job of that!  Its even used in paint
strippers.

Monona Rossol

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From owner-glass Tue Oct 29 20:17:11 1996
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From: "H. Taylor Buckner" <taylor_buckner@sympatico.ca>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Date
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 23:16:13 -0500
Message-ID: <199610300416.XAA08017@smtp1.sympatico.ca>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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                11/4/96 is neither April 11th nor November 11th, but
November 4th!!

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From owner-glass Wed Oct 30 05:21:53 1996
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From: maruca@netaxs.com
To: "H. Taylor Buckner" <taylor_buckner@sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Date
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 08:21:01 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1996Oct30.3211.0>
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On Tue, 29 Oct 1996, H. Taylor Buckner wrote:

>                 
>                 11/4/96 is neither April 11th nor November 11th, but
> November 4th!!
> 

Right you are! That's what I get for hitting the send key without looking!
I'd meant only to make a little private tease to Elisabeth and instead
made a hasty public mistake.

Mea culpa, mea culpa, mea maxima culpa (accompanied to much beating of
chest).

Mary


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From owner-glass Wed Oct 30 05:27:02 1996
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From:         mail <HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu>
To:           glass@bungi.com
Subject:      Re: First stitches
Date:         Wed, 30 Oct 96 08:21:51 EST
Message-ID:   <961030.082625.EST.HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu>
References: <<1996Oct29.63448.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

OUCH!!!
I once was rushing to leave to a craft show, reached for something on
a shelf and caught my knuckle on a corner of glass.  It bled like
crazy.  I --had-- to leave, so washed up, wrapped clean towels
around my hand, grabbed bandages, and left.  (Fortunately, my husband
drove, so I could apply pressure to the cut and get the bleeding to stop.)
I have a lovely scar now.  I am much more careful now!  But I am sure
that somewhere there's another stupid accident waiting ...

--
Dorothy Kalahan, Interlibrary Loan  (860) 679-2940  FAX (860) 679-4046
UCONN Health Center Library, POB 4003, Farmington CT 06034-4003
HCLADM02@UConnVM.uconn.edu
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From owner-glass Wed Oct 30 05:48:06 1996
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From: April Paine <vgplugs@primeline.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Exhaust
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 08:52:30 -0800
Message-ID: <1996Oct30.05230.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Victorian Greenhouse & Stained Glass
Precedence: bulk

Hi all,

Now that it's getting colder I have to bring more soldering work in to 
the house one room low ceiling wide came single glazed windows. Need 
suggestions for exhaust hood or table exhaust fan vented outside. I have 
8 month old baby and 3 lb molly dog.  Fume trap on the market is not good 
enough the sml 6"x6" inland. I also make my wood frames, sawdust etc..
                                                April
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From owner-glass Wed Oct 30 05:59:35 1996
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To:           glass@bungi.com
Subject:      Re: Jerri's hand cleaner
Date:         Wed, 30 Oct 96 08:57:26 EST
Message-ID:   <961030.085852.EST.HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu>
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Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Wow, thank you, Monona.
How many people have this stuff around their bathrooms and garages
for cleanup after tinkering with the engine, etc.
I'm posting a copy of this at work.

--
Dorothy Kalahan, Interlibrary Loan  (860) 679-2940  FAX (860) 679-4046
UCONN Health Center Library, POB 4003, Farmington CT 06034-4003
HCLADM02@UConnVM.uconn.edu
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From owner-glass Wed Oct 30 07:42:33 1996
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@mars.superlink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Exhaust
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 10:41:03 -0500
Message-ID: <1996Oct30.5413.0>
References: <<1996Oct30.05230.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

April Paine wrote:
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> Now that it's getting colder I have to bring more soldering work in to
> the house one room low ceiling wide came single glazed windows. Need
> suggestions for exhaust hood or table exhaust fan vented outside. I have
> 8 month old baby and 3 lb molly dog.  Fume trap on the market is not good
> enough the sml 6"x6" inland. I also make my wood frames, sawdust etc..
>                                                 April
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

the best thing i can think of is to get a room air filter with a hepa
filter. they are expensive but worth it, exspecialy if you can't open
any windows. get the kind with a large front intake, with the exhaust
going out the top. then put the whole thing right on your table, that
should work.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
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From owner-glass Wed Oct 30 08:32:54 1996
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From: "Peggy W. Johnsen" <edupjohn@slonet.org>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: First stitches
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 08:28:40 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1996Oct30.02840.0>
References: <<1996Oct29.63448.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Sorry about those stitches.  I had different stitches occur while carrying
a sheet of glass.  I really didn't think I had a problem but I looked down
and saw a 12 inch slash in a pair of new $60 slacks I had worn to the
supplier.  Actually had no indication that the glass had sliced my slacks.
So....beware.  I now stay with denims while transferring glass.  PJ from
CA

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From owner-glass Wed Oct 30 08:52:29 1996
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From: April Paine <vgplugs@primeline.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Exhaust
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 11:56:50 -0800
Message-ID: <1996Oct30.35650.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Victorian Greenhouse & Stained Glass
Precedence: bulk

> 
> Hi Monona and all,
> 
> Any ideas on venting to the outside.  It has been suggested that the
> reverse pull of a fan attached to a dryer vent could be used to vent out through the window.  What do you think? We already have floor model
> hepa & charcoal filter. I wanted some table top exhaust that could pull
> fumes as I work. Squirrel cage fan? Don't they already sell something
> like this?   In the greenhouse you know the CFM but in the house? Room size 8' x 30' x 20'.                 April
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From owner-glass Wed Oct 30 10:49:09 1996
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From: Terry Biegler <tbiegler@OnlineToday.Com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: First stitches
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 12:48:44 -0600 (CST)
Message-ID: <199610301848.MAA20384@online.OnlineToday.Com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

At 05:25 PM 10/29/96 -0500, you wrote:
>UURESPES@ECUVM.CIS.ECU.EDU wrote:
>> 
>> Sniff, sniff.  I have just experienced my first eight stitches as a
result in working
>> with glass for over two years now.....
>> 
>> I pulled a sheet of glass off the counter and it sliced my knee big time!
Ouch!
>> I was lucky this time.  If it wasn't for dumb luck........
>> ----
>> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
>
>ewww i guess that was a little messy...i know of someone who reached
>into the glass bin, only to find out that the corner of the sheet nearly
>went through her hand.
>
>---Mike Savad
>
>-- 
>Mike's Stained Glass
>http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
>----
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>
Sometime I don't even know I've cut myself until I see blood somewhere!
Luckily I have never cut myself too badly.

Terry

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From owner-glass Wed Oct 30 12:17:38 1996
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From:         mail <HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu>
To:           glass@bungi.com
Subject:      Re: First stitches
Date:         Wed, 30 Oct 96 15:11:06 EST
Message-ID:   <961030.151624.EST.HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu>
References: <<199610301848.MAA20384@online.OnlineToday.Com>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I have noticed that after working for years with stained glass, I hardly
notice the small cuts on my hands.  I just try to keep the blood off
stuff and keep the cut clean.  There is no  such thing as too much
Neosporin and too many bandages!  (NEVER had an infection, BTW.
Now I knock on wood.)

--
Dorothy Kalahan, Interlibrary Loan  (860) 679-2940  FAX (860) 679-4046
UCONN Health Center Library, POB 4003, Farmington CT 06034-4003
HCLADM02@UConnVM.uconn.edu
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From owner-glass Wed Oct 30 14:47:03 1996
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@mars.superlink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: First stitches
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 17:45:43 -0500
Message-ID: <1996Oct30.124543.0>
References: <<961030.151624.EST.HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

mail wrote:
> 
> I have noticed that after working for years with stained glass, I hardly
> notice the small cuts on my hands.  I just try to keep the blood off
> stuff and keep the cut clean.  There is no  such thing as too much
> Neosporin and too many bandages!  (NEVER had an infection, BTW.
> Now I knock on wood.)
> 
> --
> Dorothy Kalahan, Interlibrary Loan  (860) 679-2940  FAX (860) 679-4046
> UCONN Health Center Library, POB 4003, Farmington CT 06034-4003
> HCLADM02@UConnVM.uconn.edu
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

yeah generally that's what most people that's been doing stained glass
for while says. i don't care if i get cut, generally i don't even notice
it, until i see blood getting on the glass. i only hate it when i get
blood on the pattern or the foil. personnaly i can't wear bandaids on
any of my fingers, no grip. i just let it bleed out, unless of course
it's a real bleeder, then it'll take a bit longer. usally the main
places i get cut is my pushing thumb (for grining), or the pointer
finger of my left hand, when breaking glass. and of course the little
"fun" bits that are around.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
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From owner-glass Wed Oct 30 14:53:37 1996
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From: mhooper@vladmire.voiceisp.net (Mark Hooper)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: The Case of the Cracking Glass
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 17:52:19 -0500
Message-ID: <v01540b01ae9d8bfd266c@[206.31.230.152]>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

At 11:48 PM 10/28/96, leestat wrote:
>Sue Eiszler wrote:
>>
>> Hi All,
>>         I need your expertise.  I just finished two 'Old English Lanterns'
>> from the Lanterns for Home and Garden pattern book.  For those of you who
>> haven't seen the pattern, each side or door consists of 5 pieces: a 1"
>> border of 4 pieces surrounding a 3 x 7.5" clear piece.  The pattern calls
>> for initial assembly of the sides and door and then addition of cross
>
>I am interested in the solution too, am right in the middle of doing
>this lantern myself-
>
>If none other appears-I will use wet wash cloth underneath-and put on
>the lines at the same time I solder the parts of each side, instead of
>after assembly.  I'll let you know how this turns out.
>
>Lee Boe
>Rain-Boe's Creations

Just a thought:
        How about using wire in place of foil, or cut the face off H came
and soldering the ends?

|  The Tiffany Touch            |       mhooper@vladmire.voiceisp.net |
|                               |                                     |
|                               |
|
|  Altoona PA                   |                                     |


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From owner-glass Wed Oct 30 15:09:15 1996
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From: Brian Morgan <bmorgan@qni.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Music to Work By
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 16:09:29 -0600
Message-ID: <1996Oct30.10929.0>
References: <<1996Oct26.132938.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

mike peck wrote:
> 
> At 09:11 PM 10/25/96 +0000, you wrote:
> >I'm sure I'm in the minority, but I like listening to the Dead.  I was a
> >child of the 60's....I too appreciate Pink Floyd cranked up and classical
> >as well.
> >
> >Kathe R. McDonald
> 
> My two cents worth:  60's ROCK!  Doors, Dead, Hendrix, JJ, Beatles and
> Stones, Clapton, any of these guys.  But, because I'm trying to run a
> respectable retail operation, I have to keep the volume down.
> 
> Later artists also worth mentioning:  Stevie Ray Vaughn, Led Zepplin,
> Eagles,  ........... and even Hootie!
> 
> Mike Peck
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
Hey Mike,
We will let you turn it up in the classes you teach if you ask nicely. 
I would perfer S.R. Vaughn or a little Thorogood.

Brian Morgan
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From owner-glass Wed Oct 30 15:54:15 1996
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From: len alcamo <alcamoz@mwt.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: First stitches
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 17:48:28 -0600
Message-ID: <199610302348.RAA17898@westbyserver.westby.mwt.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

At 03:11 PM 10/30/96 EST, mail wrote:
>I have noticed that after working for years with stained glass, I hardly
>notice the small cuts on my hands.  I just try to keep the blood off
>stuff and keep the cut clean.  There is no  such thing as too much
>Neosporin and too many bandages!  (NEVER had an infection, BTW.
>Now I knock on wood.)
>

Nor have I ever gotten an infection from a glass cut 

Since I'm a lead person the tips of my fingers are all cross-hatched with
little cuts, worse on the right hand since I have callouses from guitar
strings on my left which just need to be sanded occasionally :-)

Getting the skin peeled off my knuckles from reaching into glass bins irks
me the most, reminds me of a guy slicing salami at the deli

When I handle a large sheet of glass I always hold it by the edge out in
front of me and give it a little shake to find out if its got a run in it.
This safety prceedure has saved me from sure disaster on more then one
occasion. I've seen sheets come apart in peoples hands and you don't wanna
know the gory details.

Len

listening to classical on public radio most of the time when working ....
current CD favorites Los Lobos, Greg Brown, Lyle Lovett, Robert Cray....
alltime favorite **The Band**

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From owner-glass Wed Oct 30 16:36:04 1996
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Date
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@mail.nildram.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 1996 01:06:26 +0000
Message-ID: <199610310033.AAA14210@linux.nildram.co.uk>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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On Tue, 29 Oct 1996, H. Taylor Buckner wrote:

>                 
>                 11/4/96 is neither April 11th nor November 11th, but
> November 4th!!
> 

Right you are! That's what I get for hitting the send key without looking!
I'd meant only to make a little private tease to Elisabeth and instead
made a hasty public mistake.

Mea culpa, mea culpa, mea maxima culpa (accompanied to much beating of
chest).

Mary

Hi,
;-))
Serves you right for teasing a little innocent girl, like me!!
Elisabeth 'n Toby

----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
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From owner-glass Wed Oct 30 19:32:17 1996
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From: Steve Schaefer <staingls@dwave.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Exhaust
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 21:28:57 -0600
Message-ID: <199610310328.VAA06688@home.dwave.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I use an kitchen exhaust fan over my workbench.  I then have a light over my
soldering table and a two speed fan for exhaust...  I had to cut a hole in
the wall, but it works great..  I did extend the intake of the fan down to
the table so the fumes would be pulled out before they went past my face.

Steve>

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From owner-glass Wed Oct 30 23:41:55 1996
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From: Shirley Suter <ssuter@intrastar.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re:  Jerri's hand cleaner
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 1996 01:35:44 -0600
Message-ID: <1996Oct30.193544.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Intrastellar Internet Service & Suter's Stained Glass
Precedence: bulk

Hi Ho Gang!!!

Condensed version of what COULD be a long story:  Just talked to the
lady that makes my custom soap for me.  Since I, too, have some
experience in soapmaking, we discussed the use of "handmade" soap and
fluxy, acid-coated hands that occur in stained glass work.

GREAT NEWS FOLKS!!!  She has promised to start TONIGHT developing a soap
especially made for "creative" hands!  Since flux is an acid and her
soap is alkaline, it seems to be a perfect solution!  She has promised
to include some ground oatmeal (makes your skin feel luscious) to work
as a "scrubbing" agent.  She has committed to have the test bars ready
in 10-12 days for my hands to try (Can you say "guinea pig"?).  The
finished bars should be ready in four weeks.  All her soaps are soooo
wonderful, that I am sure these bars will be magical on "working" hands.

I will let you know how it works.  She hopes to make it available for
sale to anyone that may be interested.

If you gotta have a day, make it a special one!!!
Shirley Suter
Grapeland, Tx.
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From owner-glass Thu Oct 31 00:49:11 1996
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From: jroey@juno.com (Jerri M Roey)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re:  hand cleaner
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 1996 02:25:14 EST
Message-ID: <1996Oct31.72514.0>
References: <<1996Oct30.3543.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi Monona,

	Wow.  Thanks for the input.  You mentioned the danger of
inhaling, what about as far as absorbption through the skin?  Is there
any danger?

>I especially don't like d-limonene in a hand cleaner because it is a 
>skin
>irritant and sensitizer, especially when it gets old and oxidizes.
>

	I was also wondering how long before it gets old an oxidizes?  I
was really surprised because I've seen this cleaner around so much. 
Anything from workshops to mechanics.  I'm sure going to look a little
closer at what I buy.

Thanks,  Jerri
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From owner-glass Thu Oct 31 03:58:59 1996
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From: llutz <llutz@tpgi.com.au>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Exhaust
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 1996 22:57:58 +1000
Message-ID: <1996Nov1.85758.0>
References: <<1996Oct30.05230.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

April Paine wrote:
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> Now that it's getting colder I have to bring more soldering work in to
> the house one room low ceiling wide came single glazed windows. Need
> suggestions for exhaust hood or table exhaust fan vented outside. I have
> 8 month old baby and 3 lb molly dog.  Fume trap on the market is not good
> enough the sml 6"x6" inland. I also make my wood frames, sawdust etc..
>                                                 April
My own solution would be to take a pane of glass out and re-frame the
window area to fit in an exhaust fan. If it's one larger pane- have it
divided into equal rectangular bits- one of them large enough for the
fan and the rest could be made into a stained glass window perhaps. I'm
lucky in having a farm workshop- I just custom built a room inside the
workshop with heaps of lights, electrical outlets, glass racks, kitchen
sink etc. Hope you find a solution- I am much more conscious of fumes
after reading everyones comments- I put an exhaust fan in the ceiling
when I built it and have now started using a small portable fan to blow
air across the work area to keep them out of my face.
Larry from Minore

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From owner-glass Thu Oct 31 06:35:50 1996
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From: "M. Savad" <morn@mars.superlink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: hand cleaner
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 1996 09:34:30 -0500
Message-ID: <1996Oct31.43430.0>
References: <<1996Oct31.72514.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Jerri M Roey wrote:
> 
> Hi Monona,
> 
>         Wow.  Thanks for the input.  You mentioned the danger of
> inhaling, what about as far as absorbption through the skin?  Is there
> any danger?
> 
> >I especially don't like d-limonene in a hand cleaner because it is a
> >skin
> >irritant and sensitizer, especially when it gets old and oxidizes.
> >
> 
>         I was also wondering how long before it gets old an oxidizes?  I
> was really surprised because I've seen this cleaner around so much.
> Anything from workshops to mechanics.  I'm sure going to look a little
> closer at what I buy.
> 
> Thanks,  Jerri
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


though i personnaly don't mind what's in it. it's alot better than
cleaning your hands with gasoline. and other greese fighters (though not
for your hands) contains lie. i just don't like using it because it's a
waterless hand cleaner, and does'nt wash off real easy, kind of greasy.

---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
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From owner-glass Thu Oct 31 07:52:22 1996
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Dragonfly software
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@mail.nildram.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 1996 16:22:34 +0000
Message-ID: <199610311549.PAA02340@linux.nildram.co.uk>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi All,
Especially Phil Taylor and Dorothy Kalahan

For others out there I am  re-quoting selectively the correspondence 
about Dragonfly stained glass software.

Through my own evaluation, I used a succession of about 4 printers, a 
Canon Bubble-jet and 3 HP printers (all HP also "evaluating"). My own 
feelings about printing "true" told me that this would depend on the 
printer itself more than on the software (i.e. Dragonfly). Personally 
I have never experienced any problem with this aspect whatsoever, in 
fact,  even to the extent that I hadn't even  expected the printing 
anything OTHER than "true". I have no experience with dot-matrix 
printers, , hence I checked back with Dragonfly.
They responded:
1. Glass Eye definitely tells Windows to print "true"
2. However, the printer driver software must be done correctly
3. Mechanism of the printer must in itself be accurate.
Dragonfly has only ever experienced one problem and in that case , they 
found that the  printer itself was physically unable to print a 
design over multiple pages accurately.
I have myself had no problems with the 4 different printers that I 
have used.This answers the first question  

(snip) < A question... does it print true" on standard printers? My 
husband has tried designing with another program (Auto-Cad Lite), but it's really 
designed for printing on a plotter, so on our printer it only prints 
true in one direction, so that circles become ovals. Our printer is a 
Panasonic dot-matrix> (snip).. Dorothy Kalahan

Question No. 2 From:          Phil Taylor <chip3@montana.com>
Subject:       Re: Dragonfly software
Date:          Mon, 28 Oct 1996 18:35:23 -0700
Toby wrote:
>> Hi,
Dragonfly have developed a design software programme specifically for
>  stained glass. As such, it has some rather helpful and "neat"
> features.  They are also excellent in providing "user guidance" and
> "after-sales guidance".(snip)> Let me know how else I can help...
> Elisabeth 'n Toby
 Toby!
<( snip)	Yes, I have a question or two about Dragonfly software.  I have 
their literature and am still mulling over a purchase.  For rectilinear 
designs, are the corners truly square?  Is the design the same dimension 
 top to bottom?  If I have to fit a piece into a predetermined size 
opening (i.e. a window, or cabinet door), can I adapt the design I like 
to fit these dimensions?  Does the follow-up tech support cost?
	Would appreciate your responses.  Thanks, T. in Montana


Again, I myself have never experienced any problems with this. I have 
found my designs exactly as I want them from top to bottom, more 
over,  I found no difficulties whatsoever in getting my measurements 
absolute exact (don't forget - I work almost exclusively to fit my 
stained glass into pre-determined "holes". Accuracy for me is 
paramount!)
However, I bounced your questions back at Dragonfly, had a reply back 
from them overnight (i.e. within 8 hours).
Fast in itself!
Then they tell me: Hey Elisabeth, you've missed the boat! We have 
already replied directly to  Phil Taylor!
This is what we said...
<snip- 1. Rectilinear designs can be made with superb precision; 
corners will be perfectly square;
2. You can draw a square as your frame - your design will then have 
identical height & length. Or you can make a rectangle, Or you can 
make ANY shape you want...
3. ...you can resize your design in an instant to any dimension you 
choose. So you can design to fit an opening exactly as you want.
4. There is NO cost for tech. support...> snip.
This is in essence their reply to you.
It is also my own experience.

But I thought it worth putting into the Group for anyone else who has 
been waiting for these answers.
Other than above, I once more must  refer back to Christie Wood's 
excellent review. It was very fair and objective.

I am now eagerly awaiting my "scanning update" from Dragonfly.

I do hope the above is helpful!
Elisabeth 'n Toby
----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
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From owner-glass Thu Oct 31 16:38:28 1996
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From: madglass@usaor.net (Mary Ann Dulemba)
To: Glass@bungi.com
Subject: Sidelights - Pussy Willow Design
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 1996 19:33:45 -0500
Message-ID: <199611010043.TAA02196@gate.usaor.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Does anyone remember seeing such a pattern?  Any help would be appreciated!
I can't even give you a clue more than I have!

Thanks

mad
--
Registered ICC User
check out http://www.usefulware.com/~jfoltz


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From owner-glass Thu Oct 31 17:03:03 1996
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From: artglass@waterw.com (pj friend)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Easter Visit to Chartres in France - UPDATE
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 1996 20:02:25 -0500
Message-ID: <9611010102.AA13022@water.waterw.com>
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To the Easter Tour to Chartres Group...

Just returned from a wonderful trip to Paris.  Spent two days at Chartres .
If you get the chance take Mr. Miller's English tour (I hope he is there
when you go) what a really 
enchanting man.  Also he just published a book and will autograph it for you..
Stop in at the Centre and if you get a chance talk with Sylvie, she is the
teacher there
(you will have to be able to speak french......she doesn't do English).
There are quite a few good hotels in the area.  We looked at one for a
future visit .  The Chatelet.  Even has parking if you are thinking of
driving from the airport.   Or if you are doing the train
it is really close to the snfc station.   
I don't know how much time you plan to spend there but we have been there
five or six times and never spend enough time there.

If you are going to Paris I hope that Nortre Dame will be reopened.  I don't
know how long it has been closed but renovations are quite extensive this time.

The is also a church across from the back of the Louve that is under
renovations.  There are some wonderful pieces there also.

And then there's Sainte Chappelle........need I say more.

Anything I can help with just let me know...sorry I can't join you at Easter
as I will be in St. Tropez.


my best,
pj

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From owner-glass Thu Oct 31 17:19:15 1996
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Easter Visit to Chartres in France - UPDATE
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Date: Fri, 1 Nov 1996 01:49:19 +0000
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Hi Peggy,

Forgive me for my language and approach, but I feel a l;ittle bit 
with you that I am navigating in unchartred water.....
I get the #feeling that I would look to you for teaching me a thing 
or to about Chartres - especially since this would be MY first 
trip....
I have lived in France, studied and worked in France, I speak French 
and have family connections in France. Yet - somewhere along the 
lines, I think you have "stolen a march" on me as regards Chartres. 
This - for me will be a first stained glass pilgrimmage to Chartres.  I get the 
feeling,  you would have many things to teach and show me - much, much 
more than you have been letting on.
Is there any way I could possibly persuade you to join me/us next 
Easter???
You didn't say yes at the time, but you didn't say no either....
Please tell me more about San Chapelle.......
I would enjoy immensely meeting up with you and introduce you to Swedish 
hospitality in England.....
How might I tempt you... ??
Elisabeth
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As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
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From owner-glass Thu Oct 31 17:27:00 1996
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Easter Visit to Chartres in France - UPDATE
Summary: Authenticated sender is <glass@mail.nildram.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 1 Nov 1996 01:57:13 +0000
Message-ID: <199611010124.BAA00521@linux.nildram.co.uk>
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Hi Peggy,
Talk about telepathy!!!!
Your message crossed mine...
Will respond tomorrow.
Am heading for bed right now - desperately tired...
Elisabeth
----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
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