From owner-glass Fri Mar  1 06:01:44 1996
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From: Laurie Hall <lbl@avery.med.virginia.edu>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: ATTN: Carol of Mike and Carol
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 1996 08:33:03 -0500
Message-ID: <199603011333.IAA175820@avery.med.Virginia.EDU>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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Status: O

At 08:22 PM 2/29/96 -0500, you wrote:

ATTN: Carol, of Mike and Carol.  Sorry, my mailer strips addresses, so I
don't know how to get this to you personally.  Hope the list will pardon my
post to everyone.

You wanted to know where I live in Virginia.  I'm in Ruckersville, a small
rural community about 15 miles north of Charlottesville.  Charlottesville,
in case you don't know, is the home of Thomas Jefferson's "Monticello", and
is about 70 miles to the west of Richmond.  So, your sis is in Williamsburg,
eh?  Very nice town, lots of history, of course.  I go there a couple of
times a year doing the "touristy" thing with friends and relatives.  By any
chance is your sister applying to med school at U.Va.? I work at U.Va. as
Grants Manager for Endocrinology.  Stained glass is a hobby for me, and I
generally give everything away to friends and family.  Laurie 

>>>>> ........So I have considered trying the Toyo pistol grip as an
>>>>> alternative to my Toyo straight cutter.
>>>>
>>>>FWIW, I use a pistol grip cutter for most things, but I find that I
>>>>like the old fashioned straight kind for tiny pieces.  The pistol type
>>>>is easier on your hands, I think.  Good luck.  Let us know how you
>>>>progress....       Peggy
>>
>>Laurie from Virginia here.  i developed a pain in the top of my hand near my
>>wrist when I first started working in glass about 3 years ago (it's a hobby
>>for me, not a money-making venture).  Someone suggested that I try a pistol
>>grip cutter.  I still occasionally have a twinge or two, but using the
>>pistol grip cutter has helped immensely.  
>>Laurie Hall	
>>E-mail: lbl@virginia.edu
>
>Laurie, this is Carol
>Where in VA are you?  My sister is in Williamburg at W&M working on her
>Master's. She will be trying for Med school soon.
>Plse e-mail back if you can
>*******************************************
>Mike and Carol Rumak
>Mississauga, Ontario
>Canada
>
>Visit Carols Stained Glass Gallery at:
>http://web.idirect.com/~studio
>*******************************************
>
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>
>
Laurie Hall	
E-mail: lbl@virginia.edu
 

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From owner-glass Sat Mar  2 07:52:27 1996
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From: izzy3@ix.netcom.com (Michael Smoucha )
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Glazing
Date: Sat, 2 Mar 1996 07:49:20 -0800
Message-ID: <199603021549.HAA00927@ix7.ix.netcom.com>
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You wrote: 
>
>I have been waiting(lurking) for more on this thread. I am opinionated 

>hence my lack of response. It's a controversial question. Putty.
>
>Andrea King wrote:



What do you mean by that?? What is the controversy?

ms

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From owner-glass Sat Mar  2 07:53:47 1996
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From: izzy3@ix.netcom.com (Michael Smoucha )
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Glazing
Date: Sat, 2 Mar 1996 07:51:57 -0800
Message-ID: <199603021551.HAA14609@ix10.ix.netcom.com>
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Status: O

You wrote: 
>
>> From:          Pristine <Pristine@gr.cns.net>
>
>> I have been waiting(lurking) for more on this thread. I am 
opinionated 
>> hence my lack of response. It's a controversial question. Putty.
>
>To clarify, I hope because I feel like a complete dummy
>
>To me glazing a window is to INSTALL it when it is completed or, to
>have a broken window replaced with a plain piece of glass, you call a
>Glazier to repair it.
>
>Glazing a window is what the process of leading up is called. Although 
you can also use the term for installation.

ms

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From owner-glass Sat Mar  2 07:58:45 1996
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From: izzy3@ix.netcom.com (Michael Smoucha )
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: lampshade for a kerosene style lamp
Date: Sat, 2 Mar 1996 07:56:12 -0800
Message-ID: <199603021556.HAA14917@ix14.ix.netcom.com>
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You wrote: 
>
>Hi. all.  I have been diverted from my stained glass projects by my 
new
>Shopsmith - actually a used one - but I am getting backl into glass 
finally.
>One of my neighbors has a tiffany lampshade seated on a glass shae of 
the sort
>used on kerosene lamps - I hope that creates the proper image for 
everyone.
>Since I don't know this neighbor welll enough to go ask, I was 
wondering if
>anyone could advise me about how to finisah the top of the shade 
tomake it
>strong enough to sit on a shade like that.  Is there any difference in 
fact
>between that kind of lampshe and the ones we usually make to carry a 
light
>bulb?  


Use wire to reinforce the rim. Tie it into the ribs of the shade, 
looping around the rim wire prior to fully soldering down. If it is 
realy large you can add wires around the circumference in other areas, 
and tha base. 
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From owner-glass Sat Mar  2 08:06:52 1996
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From: toprea19@eos.eos.net (Chris Christman)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: UN-SUBSCRIBE
Date: Sat, 2 Mar 1996 11:15:12 -0500
Message-ID: <v01510100ad5e246d75fd@[205.133.149.73]>
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PLEASE UNSUBSCRIBE ME FROM YOUR LIST!

CC


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From owner-glass Sat Mar  2 08:38:33 1996
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To: rglass-1
X-Path: direct.ca!kmccullo
From: direct.ca!kmccullo
Subject: reinforcing
Date: Sat Mar  2 08:36:34 1996
Message-ID: <96Mar2.083230-0800pdt.205096-28857+158@orb.direct.ca>
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Hi everyone, I'm kind of new to your e-mail group. I've being doing stained
glass for about 5 years & still have lots & lots to learn, but I just love it. 
I hope someone can help me. I am making a door & using came. length is about
67"x21". I have used reinforcing copper inside the came channel about 1/2
way up, but I am still concerned about stength. The door's I've seen in the
books all have reinforcing bars. I don't want my glass to end up on the
floor as soon as someone uses the door.  Help !

Thanks, Karin  

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From owner-glass Sat Mar  2 09:02:48 1996
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X-Path: direct.ca!kmccullo
From: direct.ca!kmccullo
Subject: reinforcing 
Date: Sat Mar  2 08:59:23 1996
Message-ID: <96Mar2.085455-0800pdt.205085-28856+215@orb.direct.ca>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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Status: O

Hi everyone, 
I am new to your e-mail group. I have been doing stained glass fro about 5
years, mainly copper foil. I have done some smaller piecies in lead came,
but now I am doing a door.67" x21" I have used reinforcing copper strip
inside the came about 1/2 way up, but I am still concerned about strength. I
wouldn't want all hard work to end up on the floor. I noticed that in all
the glass books they seen to use reinforcing bars behind the window, approx.
ever. 2 feet. 

Can any one help me ? Ppleeease. 

I am also interested in getting that recipe for the putty. I did buy some
commercial glass putty to which lampblack need to be added. 

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From owner-glass Sat Mar  2 15:42:58 1996
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From: CHRIS GRAHAM <cgraham@pc.jaring.my>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Copper Foil Loosing its Stickiness
Date: Sun, 3 Mar 1996 07:40:09 +0800 (MYT)
Message-ID: <199603022340.HAA05350@relay3.jaring.my>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O

In the stained glass group I belong to we are having problems getting our
copper foil to stick to the glass prior to soldering. This is despite
cleaning the glass thoroughly beforehand using methanol.

- Does the sticky side of copper foil loose its stickiness over time?
- Should we always keep the foil wrapped up in a sealed plastic bag (where
we live in Malaysia the climate is hot and humid so this could perhaps be a
reason for our problem)?

Grateful for advice from anyone on this.

Many thanks,

Penny Graham

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From owner-glass Sat Mar  2 17:25:53 1996
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From: Gordon.Newell@ibm.net
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Text in Glass
Date: Sun, 03 Mar 96 11:49:41
Message-ID: <199603030124.BAA100011@smtp-gw01.ny.us.ibm.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O

G'day All,

I'm very new to Leadlighting (Stained Glass). And have completed a
practice panel and a mirror. Soldering needs a bit of improvement. I tend
to put too much on!

Anyway, my inquiry. I would like to do a mirror for family members for
Xmas. But want to incorporate their family name. Playing with Corel Draw
(a graphics package for those not familiar) and putting lines where I
think the came and logical breaks should go.

Well, I can't seem to get the correct effect. Does anyone know of any
method for this, or could I be pointed to some samples with text in, on
the web.  

-------------------------------------------------------- 
Gordon.Newell@ibm.net         Telephone: +61 3 9708 0134
Melbourne.                    Mobile: 041 111 6636 
Australia.                    Fax: +61 3 9221 3958
--------------------------------------------------------


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From owner-glass Sat Mar  2 17:57:08 1996
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From: Meghan E Donovan <mdonovan@gas.uug.arizona.edu>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: 50/50 solder
Date: Sat, 2 Mar 1996 18:51:21 -0700 (MST)
Message-ID: <1996Mar2.115121.0>
References: <<1996Feb29.222627.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O

Well, I had been doing just the opposite of you for a long time.  I was 
using 50/50 before I switched over to a 60/40.  The one thing I have 
noticed is that I need a HOTTER iron for 50/50 than 60/40.  I use a 
regulator on my iron, so I can usually run a fluid bead of 60/40 around 
70% of full heat while 50/50 melts around 75%.  I have never had the 
success with the Glastar flux that you have though, it's always seemed 
to make the solder very gummy in texture when I soldered with it.  If you 
have a regulator, I give the heat difference a shot, if not, I don't 
know.  Could it be possible that Glastar flux doesn't work well with 50/50? 

On Fri, 1 Mar 1996 BLFstar@aol.com wrote:

> Hi all!
> For the first time today I tried using 50/50 solder and had some troubling
> results.  Let me describe what else I'm using.  Hakko iron, Glastar flux and
> Canfield's 50/50.  Had a great deal of trouble keeping my iron tip tinned -
> had lots of smoke and almost immediately the iron got dirty again.  
> 
> Since I've never used 50/50 before, I'm unsure if I've got a bad batch, my
> iron is too hot or what's going on.  I regularly use the Hakko, Glastar flux
> and Canfield's other solders with good results.  
> 
> In trying to clean the iron, I tried sal ammoniac, the Hakko tip cleaner and
> the Glastar sponge.  The sponge kept it cleanest the longest.  
> 
> What do you think was going on here?  Thanks!  Barbara
> ----
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> 
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From owner-glass Sat Mar  2 19:33:37 1996
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From: BLFstar@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: UN-SUBSCRIBE
Date: Sat, 2 Mar 1996 22:31:24 -0500
Message-ID: <1996Mar2.173124.0>
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Status: O

To anyone wishing to unsubscribe, it would be helpful if you read the
instructions on how to do so and not bore the rest of us with your inability
to deal with cyber space.  

The request should go to the same place you sent the subscription request -
not to the mailing list.  We can't help you, they can.  Again, see the
instructions that follows EVERY message.
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From owner-glass Sat Mar  2 19:38:18 1996
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From: BLFstar@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: 50/50 solder
Date: Sat, 2 Mar 1996 22:38:05 -0500
Message-ID: <1996Mar2.17385.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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Status: O

In a message dated 96-03-01 03:28:21 EST, you write:

>
>Hi all!
>For the first time today I tried using 50/50 solder and had some troubling
>results.  Let me describe what else I'm using.  Hakko iron, Glastar flux and
>Canfield's 50/50.  Had a great deal of trouble keeping my iron tip tinned -
>had lots of smoke and almost immediately the iron got dirty again.  
>
>Since I've never used 50/50 before, I'm unsure if I've got a bad batch, my
>iron is too hot or what's going on.  I regularly use the Hakko, Glastar flux
>and Canfield's other solders with good results.  
>
>In trying to clean the iron, I tried sal ammoniac, the Hakko tip cleaner and
>the Glastar sponge.  The sponge kept it cleanest the longest.  
>
>What do you think was going on here?  Thanks!  Barbara

I should add I AM using a reostat - the one made by Glastar.  Started it at
@60, which is what I set it at for 60/40 and kept reducing it.  Oh - and this
is a copper foil project.  Thanks again!!
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From owner-glass Sat Mar  2 21:51:38 1996
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X-Path: teleport.com!weaver51
From: Elaine & Howard Rubin <weaver51@teleport.com>
To: Glass list <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Solder
Date: Sat, 02 Mar 96 21:50:06 -0500
Message-ID: <199603030549.VAA04389@desiree.teleport.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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Status: O

-- [ From: Elaine & Howard Rubin * EMC.Ver #2.5.02 ] --

Hi all, Howard here....For all my finishing work on 50/50 solder I use a 1,
100 Ungar heater, and run it at full heat. For tacking and tinning I use the
1,000 heater, and again at full.
IMHO, the hotter the better as the goal is to melt solder and get it to run
smoothly. 
If it spits, use a bit less flux.
If you are worried about cracking glass from the heat, work faster or let
the bead cool and go over it again.
You should be able to feel the seams of the glass pieces where they join. 
If the solder looks layered or peaky like merangue, you have not melted all
the way to the foil.
Refutations are welcome, as well as other comments...enjoy
--
Elaine and Howard, mastering technology one byte at a time!
E-Mail address is...weaver51@teleport.com
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From owner-glass Sun Mar  3 04:34:18 1996
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From: MPGP79B@prodigy.com (PEGGY M PALM)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: 50/50 solder
Date: Sat, 02 Mar 1996 07:28:35 EST
Message-ID: <096.02612241.MPGP79B@prodigy.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O

This identical question came up on another bb some months ago.  It
caused great debate about the relative merits of brands and types of 
irons, solder , flux, etc.  In the end, the preson who posted the
question went back to the store the solder came from, and was told it
was indeed a bad batch of solder!  A new roll solved her problem.  Good
luck!   Peggy

> > Canfield's 50/50.  Had a great deal of trouble keeping my iron tip
> tinned -
> > had lots of smoke and almost immediately the iron got dirty again. 


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From owner-glass Sun Mar  3 07:22:12 1996
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X-Path: mail.gardencitynet.co.uk!kris
From: "Kris" <kris@gardencitynet.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Text in Glass
Summary: Authenticated sender is <kris@mail.gardencitynet.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 2 Mar 1996 15:09:01 +0000
Message-ID: <199603031524.PAA13530@linux.nildram.co.uk>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O

 
> Anyway, my inquiry. I would like to do a mirror for family members for
> Xmas. But want to incorporate their family name. Playing with Corel Draw
> (a graphics package for those not familiar) and putting lines where I
> think the came and logical breaks should go.
> 
> Well, I can't seem to get the correct effect. Does anyone know of any
> method for this, or could I be pointed to some samples with text in, on
> the web.  
> 

Are there any computer packages for stained glass work? I'm 
currently writing something  on the PC to take care of some of the chores
( but not the soldering or cleaning!)
If it works out OK I'll probably put it out as Shareware. What 
facilities would you like?
Currently proposed:
1)  scaling of image to produce full size paper templates
2) allowance for foil or came clearances
3) overscaled paper templates for automatic cutter work

Possibly later:
4) coloured "artists impressions"

Does anyone put out sheet glass catalogues as PC files or CD-ROM?

                                                                    Kris
--
email: kris@gardencitynet.co.uk
"Everything in life is transient; including life itself"
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From owner-glass Sun Mar  3 09:34:09 1996
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X-Path: iconnect.net!rustyt
From: rustyt@iconnect.net
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Text in Glass
Date: Sun, 3 Mar 96 11:31 CST
Message-ID: <m0ttHdP-001VvcC@sashimi.wwa.com>
References: <<199603031524.PAA13530@linux.nildram.co.uk>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O

I have been searching the Net for the past few days... looking for a software 
package that will allow me to create designs in 1/4 inch scales.  The closest 
thing I've found is in the metric system.  I tried using Corel Draw and even 
MS-Word (creating a table with 1/4 inch cells but while the width was ok, the 
heighth was off).  

If anyone knows of such a package, PLEASE let me know!  

Thanks!
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From owner-glass Sun Mar  3 10:38:40 1996
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To: rglass-1
X-Path: direct.ca!kmccullo
From: direct.ca!kmccullo
Subject: Re: Copper Foil Loosing its Stickiness
Date: Sun Mar  3 10:37:30 1996
Message-ID: <96Mar3.103313-0800pdt.205215-24292+29@orb.direct.ca>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O

I live in a cool, wet climate and I still ave problems on occassion with the
foil not sticking to the glass. But, I have found that sometimes it's the
manufacturer of the foil that is the problem. Not enough glue applied to the
foil. I also keep my foil in the house in a sealed plastic bag, as the cold
in my work shop did destroy the stickiness of the foil. I would try another
brand of foil.
Karin.
 
>In the stained glass group I belong to we are having problems getting our
>copper foil to stick to the glass prior to soldering. This is despite
>cleaning the glass thoroughly beforehand using methanol.
>
>- Does the sticky side of copper foil loose its stickiness over time?
>- Should we always keep the foil wrapped up in a sealed plastic bag (where
>we live in Malaysia the climate is hot and humid so this could perhaps be a
>reason for our problem)?
>
>Grateful for advice from anyone on this.
>
>Many thanks,
>
>Penny Graham
>
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>
>

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From owner-glass Sun Mar  3 15:19:45 1996
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	id m0ttN1u-0000ONa; Sun, 3 Mar 96 15:17 PST
X-Path: swin.edu.au!andreaking
From: "Andrea King" <andreaking@swin.edu.au>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: putty recipe
Summary: Authenticated sender is <andreaking@gpo.swin.edu.au>
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 1996 10:17:21 +0000
Message-ID: <199603032317.AA25079@lucy.swin.edu.au>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Swinburne University
Precedence: bulk
Status: O

 
> Please post your receipe for all of us to enjoy.  Thanks!..  Barbara

Ok pleased to and I have given a run down on the process I use as 
well.

The reason I make my own putty is because I hate pushing in the
prepared putty which is quite stiff (I always end up with sore finger
tips) and is a lot more expensive.  This way I can keep all the
ingredients seperately and make any quantity I want and is very cheap.

4 parts whiting powder (available from SG stores)
2 parts plaster of paris (available hardware store)
1 part cement power (ditto)
1 1/2 parts turpentine (available hardware/supermarket)
1 part boiled sinseed oil (available hardware store)
cement colouring (available hardware store) (I use black and add a
little or a lot depending on depth of colour I want)

RUBBER GLOVES

You will need to work fairly quickly from  now on as it doesn't take
long to set (one of the reasons I like using it).

Mix together to cake batter consistency (quite sloppy).
It will take a while to get the quantity right for the job you are
doing but I would rather mix up too much than not have enough for the
job at hand.  I quite often lead up several projects and putty and
finish in one go.

You need a couple of nail brushes (natural fibre ones, again most
supermarkets and hardware stores have them and a nail brush is easy to
use)

1. Pour on a decent amount of your "batter" and using a curcular
motion push "batter"  under the came thoroughly.  Remove excess with
the brush making sure you don't drag any out from under the came.

2. Sprinkle with extra whiting powder and using the same brush, scrub
with a circular motion.  Once the moisure is absorbed push off excess
powder.

3. Using a craftstick (I use a pointed bamboo skewer available from 
supermarkets) loosen edges, just sort of trace around ALL the came to
remove excess putty.

4. Using a clean brush and more whiting powder, scrub and brush off
excess powder, repeat "skewer" to get edges and corners clean.

Repeat 4. again if necessary, and this depends on how much putty you
have used, how thin, and the temperature at the time.

At this stage I turn my work over and repeat on the other side as
this side has now set enough for it not to ooze out.

I finish my project with black stove polish on both sides.  Just brush
it all over the came and polish off using a stiff brush or one
attached to my electric drill.  This I do very carefully, I do not
want to break anything at this stage.

I have found this putty to be very secure as nearly all  my panels are
external windows and are exposed to all the weather thats thrown at
them and this putty holds up very well.

OK, have I explained this well or not!!  Probably not so just contact
me if I have not made things clear.

You asked for it!!!!

Andrea
 
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From owner-glass Sun Mar  3 15:38:24 1996
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X-Path: ibm.net!Gordon.Newell
From: Gordon.Newell@ibm.net
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Text in Glass
Date: Mon, 04 Mar 96 10:27:24
Message-ID: <199603032336.XAA65854@smtp-gw01.ny.us.ibm.net>
References: <<m0ttHdP-001VvcC@sashimi.wwa.com>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O

In <m0ttHdP-001VvcC@sashimi.wwa.com>, on 03/03/96 at 11:31 AM,
   rustyt@iconnect.net said:

>I have been searching the Net for the past few days... looking for a
>software  package that will allow me to create designs in 1/4 inch
>scales.  The closest  thing I've found is in the metric system.  I tried
>using Corel Draw and even  MS-Word (creating a table with 1/4 inch cells
>but while the width was ok, the  heighth was off).  

Corel does exactly what you want. Under LAYOUT > Grid & Scale Setup. You
can set up the drawing scale. Page distance relative to World distance can
be set to 1:4. Just what you asked for.

You can also set up a gride under Corel, and have this grid set at each
1/4". 

Or use the metric one you found, just think in 10's - it really is easy

--------------------------------------------------------- 
Gordon.Newell@ibm.net          Telephone: +61 3 9708 0134
Melbourne                      Mobile: 041 111 6636 
                               Fax: +61 3 9221 3958
---------------------------------------------------------


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From owner-glass Sun Mar  3 15:38:25 1996
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X-Path: ibm.net!Gordon.Newell
From: Gordon.Newell@ibm.net
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Proposed Computer package
Date: Mon, 04 Mar 96 10:13:21
Message-ID: <199603032336.XAA61509@smtp-gw01.ny.us.ibm.net>
References: <<199603031524.PAA13530@linux.nildram.co.uk>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O

In <199603031524.PAA13530@linux.nildram.co.uk>, on 03/02/96 at 03:09 PM,
   "Kris" <kris@gardencitynet.co.uk> said:

>Are there any computer packages for stained glass work? I'm  currently
>writing something  on the PC to take care of some of the chores ( but not
>the soldering or cleaning!)
>If it works out OK I'll probably put it out as Shareware. What 
>facilities would you like?
>Currently proposed:
>1)  scaling of image to produce full size paper templates
>2) allowance for foil or came clearances
>3) overscaled paper templates for automatic cutter work

>Possibly later:
>4) coloured "artists impressions"

Kris,
All of this is already available with packages such as Corel Draw. And
maybe some of the existing shareware out there.

Some of the feature I use: (Corel)

1. Line width (for came allowance), can be set and if image scaled,
doesn't change. 2. Scale stretch image.
3. Flip image. Useful for glass that has to be cut on back side. 4. Trace
function.
5. Prints large image on multiple sheets for those large projects.  6.
Guides. Allow accuracte placement of came lines.
7. Layers. Guides on one, bitmap on another, other sections on other
layers.

--------------------------------------------------------- 
Gordon.Newell@ibm.net          Telephone: +61 3 9708 0134
Melbourne.                     Mobile: 041 111 6636 
Australia.                     Fax: +61 3 9221 3958
---------------------------------------------------------


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From owner-glass Sun Mar  3 17:50:12 1996
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X-Path: mail.gardencitynet.co.uk!kris
From: "Kris" <kris@gardencitynet.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Proposed Computer package
Summary: Authenticated sender is <kris@mail.gardencitynet.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 3 Mar 1996 01:36:16 +0000
Message-ID: <199603040151.BAA28039@linux.nildram.co.uk>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O

> From:          Gordon.Newell@ibm.net
> Kris

> All of this is already available with packages such as Corel Draw. And
> maybe some of the existing shareware out there.
> 

Thanks Gordon - I'll check out the Corel features. I did a Web trawl for 
Shareware but came up blank. I might still put something together as 
a learning exercise in PC graphics - Corel isn't exactly the cheapest 
of packages. Nothing like prototyping a package yourself to give the 
insights for a reasoned assessment of a commercial package.

I don't actually do glass work myself - I've just commissioned some panels
and decided that there had to be ways a PC could help the artist spend less
time on the 'boring' bits! ...but without putting her into a lot of 
expensive upgrades to her PC ...you all know the luxurious life style 
that glass artists maintain on their profits. :-)
                                          Kris
--
email: kris@gardencitynet.co.uk
"Everything in life is transient; including life itself"
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From owner-glass Sun Mar  3 19:39:43 1996
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X-Path: iconnect.net!rustyt
From: rustyt@iconnect.net
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Text in Glass
Date: Sun, 3 Mar 96 21:37 CST
Message-ID: <m0ttR5e-001VwKC@sashimi.wwa.com>
References: <<199603032336.XAA65854@smtp-gw01.ny.us.ibm.net>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O

Thanks,  I will try the corel again.  My problem using the metric system is that 
I am using one pre-cut/pre-fabbed etched piece on the project that I'm working 
on and it is a square 4 inches. 

Thanks for the info!  I will re-visit corel draw!  :)

Rusty

On Mon, 04 Mar 96, Gordon.Newell@ibm.net wrote:
>In <m0ttHdP-001VvcC@sashimi.wwa.com>, on 03/03/96 at 11:31 AM,
>   rustyt@iconnect.net said:
>
>>I have been searching the Net for the past few days... looking for a
>>software  package that will allow me to create designs in 1/4 inch
>>scales.  The closest  thing I've found is in the metric system.  I tried
>>using Corel Draw and even  MS-Word (creating a table with 1/4 inch cells
>>but while the width was ok, the  heighth was off).  
>
>Corel does exactly what you want. Under LAYOUT > Grid & Scale Setup. You
>can set up the drawing scale. Page distance relative to World distance can
>be set to 1:4. Just what you asked for.
>
>You can also set up a gride under Corel, and have this grid set at each
>1/4". 
>
>Or use the metric one you found, just think in 10's - it really is easy
>
>--------------------------------------------------------- 
>Gordon.Newell@ibm.net          Telephone: +61 3 9708 0134
>Melbourne                      Mobile: 041 111 6636 
>                               Fax: +61 3 9221 3958
>---------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>----
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>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
>
>
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From owner-glass Sun Mar  3 21:22:05 1996
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X-Path: paw.montana.com!arl3205
From: Tom and Lana Philips <arl3205@paw.montana.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Text in Glass
Date: Sun, 3 Mar 1996 22:17:55 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1996Mar3.141755.0>
References: <<199603032336.XAA65854@smtp-gw01.ny.us.ibm.net>>
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Status: O

Please un suscribe me from your list.  Thanks
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From owner-glass Mon Mar  4 06:07:27 1996
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X-Path: mail.utexas.edu!kgbryant
From: kgbryant@mail.utexas.edu (Kelly Bryant)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Text in Glass
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 1996 08:04:33 -0600
Message-ID: <v01530501ad605393bbec@[128.83.166.106]>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O

>G'day All,

>
>Anyway, my inquiry. I would like to do a mirror for family members for
>Xmas. But want to incorporate their family name. Playing with Corel Draw
>(a graphics package for those not familiar) and putting lines where I
>think the came and logical breaks should go.
>
>Well, I can't seem to get the correct effect. Does anyone know of any
>method for this, or could I be pointed to some samples with text in, on
>the web.


I have seen several pattern books out there that have stained glass
alphabet patterns.  Sorry I don't have any other information.  I just
remember seeing the book and think I needed to get it one day.  You might
try Glass Crafters they have a site on the Web.

Kelly


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From owner-glass Mon Mar  4 13:53:08 1996
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X-Path: ccinet.ab.ca!kgreenwell
From: kgreenwell@ccinet.ab.ca (Pat Greenwell)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Source for Kaleidoscope Parts
Date: Sun, 3 Mar 1996 14:48:10 -0700
Message-ID: <9603032148.AA21396@bach.ccinet.ab.ca>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O

I make a lot of kaleidoscopes and want make my own axle assemblies.I can
buy the 1/8" brass rod in 3 foot lengths, but I need to find a place to buy
brass balls, preferrably threaded, to put on the end of 1/8" brass rods.
Anybody know where or what to look for??
Pat


kgreenwell@ccinet.ab.ca
Pat Greenwel
5302 57th St.,
Ponoka,Alberta,Canada
T4J 1M4



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From owner-glass Mon Mar  4 15:57:14 1996
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X-Path: ix.netcom.com!izzy3
From: izzy3@ix.netcom.com (Michael Smoucha )
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: reinforcing
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 1996 15:55:25 -0800
Message-ID: <199603042355.PAA15355@ix3.ix.netcom.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O

You wrote: 
>
>Hi everyone, I'm kind of new to your e-mail group. I've being doing 
stained
>glass for about 5 years & still have lots & lots to learn, but I just 
love it. 
>I hope someone can help me. I am making a door & using came. length is 
about
>67"x21". I have used reinforcing copper inside the came channel about 
1/2
>way up, but I am still concerned about stength. The door's I've seen 
in the
>books all have reinforcing bars. I don't want my glass to end up on 
the
>floor as soon as someone uses the door.  Help !
>
Ansolutely use rebar. 3/8 x 1/8 run horizontaly every 8" - 16" 
following a lead line if possible. Make sure that you run the bars just 
under full size of the panel and notch the moldings around the bars to 
help support the panel

ms

>

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From owner-glass Mon Mar  4 16:01:01 1996
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X-Path: ix.netcom.com!izzy3
From: izzy3@ix.netcom.com (Michael Smoucha )
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Solder
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 1996 15:58:52 -0800
Message-ID: <199603042358.PAA04997@ix2.ix.netcom.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O

You wrote: 
>
>-- [ From: Elaine & Howard Rubin * EMC.Ver #2.5.02 ] --
>
>Hi all, Howard here....For all my finishing work on 50/50 solder I use 
a 1,
>100 Ungar heater, and run it at full heat. For tacking and tinning I 
use the
>1,000 heater, and again at full.
>IMHO, the hotter the better as the goal is to melt solder and get it 
to run
>smoothly. 
>If it spits, use a bit less flux.
>If you are worried about cracking glass from the heat, work faster or 
let
>the bead cool and go over it again.
>You should be able to feel the seams of the glass pieces where they 
join. 
>If the solder looks layered or peaky like merangue, you have not 
melted all
>the way to the foil.
>Refutations are welcome, as well as other comments...enjoy
>--
>It is best to run your iron along the foil and fed the solder nito the 
iron.


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From owner-glass Mon Mar  4 18:10:44 1996
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X-Path: prodigy.com!MPGP79B
From: MPGP79B@prodigy.com (PEGGY M PALM)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Text in Glass
Date: Sun, 03 Mar 1996 20:47:20 EST
Message-ID: <096.02744360.MPGP79B@prodigy.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O

Kelly responds:
> I have seen several pattern books out there that have stained glass
> alphabet patterns. 

One good one is Classic Alphabets by Tammie Martin (ISBN. 0-919985-13-0)
.  It gives samples of 6 alphabets in several styles as well as fairly
complete instructions for creating projects.  [c. 1987 by Wardell
Publications, PO box 40131, Houston , TX  77240-0131, and most likely
still available from most SG mail order catalogs.]

Advice from the above source:

"The major steps in completing a full-size working drawing for a panel
containing word and/or numbers are as follows:

1.  Draw the outside dimension lines and borders.
2.  Assemble the required words on individual layout sheets.
3.  Determine the location and size of the words on the panel.
4.  Position the word on the full-size drawing.
5.  Add pictorial elements to the background.
6.  Connect the letters.
7.  Divide the background."

In general, one way of tying in text is to connect lower case letters
to each other at top and bottom, and use the ascending or descending
portions of letters such as b, g, h, l, y, etc. as "jumping off" points
for breaking up the background.  Sometimes, a simple background of a
grid of diamond or square shapes works also.  

Hope this is enough to get you started.  Good luck on your project. 
Peggy

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From owner-glass Mon Mar  4 20:24:00 1996
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X-Path: swin.edu.au!andreaking
From: "Andrea King" <andreaking@swin.edu.au>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Text in Glass
Summary: Authenticated sender is <andreaking@gpo.swin.edu.au>
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 15:21:57 +0000
Message-ID: <199603050421.AA25865@lucy.swin.edu.au>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Swinburne University
Precedence: bulk
Status: O



Try your local library!!  I have seen several books on text in glass 
(can't think of names at the moment but could find out), one book was 
at least 20 years old but had some great text.  Most libraries are very good, 
and you can always visit the university libraries and photocopy the 
pages you require without infringing any copyright ( I think you can 
copy 10% for your own use.  University libraries are 
good particularly ones that cater for the Arts.  

Also you can browse lots of Uni libraries via the internet.  Worth a try anyway.

Andrea
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From owner-glass Mon Mar  4 20:40:52 1996
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X-Path: mbay.net!drno
From: "Joseph D. Noble" <drno@mbay.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Text in Glass
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 1996 20:39:26 -0800
Message-ID: <199603050439.UAA19279@otter.mbay.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O

>Are there any computer packages for stained glass work? I'm 
>currently writing something  on the PC to take care of some of the chores
>( but not the soldering or cleaning!)
>If it works out OK I'll probably put it out as Shareware. What 
>facilities would you like?
>Currently proposed:
>1)  scaling of image to produce full size paper templates
>2) allowance for foil or came clearances
>3) overscaled paper templates for automatic cutter work
>
>Possibly later:
>4) coloured "artists impressions"
>
>Does anyone put out sheet glass catalogues as PC files or CD-ROM?
>
>                                                                    Kris
>--
>email: kris@gardencitynet.co.uk

Well, I for one would be very interested in such a program if you would like
to test out a beta version or anything just attach it as a file and I'll let
you know what I think.  I would imagine you could use one of the programs
already made for drawing to save alot of progaramming work though and then
just adapt it to a stained glass pattern allowing spacing for lead.
DR NO
Monterey, CA

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From owner-glass Tue Mar  5 03:12:59 1996
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X-Path: alpha.netaccess.on.ca!tchivers
From: "Kathy Chivers" <tchivers@netaccess.on.ca>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject:       RE:text 
Date:          Tue, 5 Mar 1996 06:00:01 +0000
Message-ID: <199603051059.FAA03528@alpha.netaccess.on.ca>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O

Hi All
     There are currently 2 books of  alphabet  for stained glass out on 
the market that I have seen. One was mentioned the other day(can't 
recall the title) and the other is Ed SibbettJr's Decorative 
Alphabets Stained Glass Pattern Book.It includes ,I believe 7 
different font styles as well as their corresponding numbers 0-9.
     There is also a software program out called Glass Magic 1.0 and 
the update version 2.0 The original program has only 1 alphabet and 
the 2.0 version has 3 font styles.The letters' sizes can be 
manipulated in size between 4-6" only .You are able to print out the 
letters but you can not string them together in the program and print 
out your word.
       The program was a great idea but no very sophisticated.Back to the 
drawing board,I would think!
        Hope this info helps.
        Kathy
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From owner-glass Tue Mar  5 05:39:20 1996
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X-Path: iconnect.net!rustyt
From: rustyt@iconnect.net
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Text in Glass
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 96 07:36 CST
Message-ID: <m0ttwv6-001WBFC@sashimi.wwa.com>
References: <<199603050439.UAA19279@otter.mbay.net>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O

I received a catalog from Delphi Glass Company out of Lansing, Michigan 
yesterday.  They have a product for Windows 3.1 or higher that they say will 
assist us in designing glass projects on a computer.  I will most likely 
purchase it and give it a try.  Of course, if it will not print over multiple 
pages, I will also return it.  :)

I did try Corel Draw and it was fine for a single 8.5 x 11 project but mine are 
larger than that.  I couldn't see any feature that would allow me to span 
multiple pages for a single drawing which I consider to be a draw back.

Additionally, a friend of mine (who is an architect and also does stained glass) 
is going to give me an older version of auto-cad to try out.

I will let y'all know how it all goes.

Russ
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From owner-glass Tue Mar  5 05:42:03 1996
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X-Path: iconnect.net!rustyt
From: rustyt@iconnect.net
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: RE:text 
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 96 07:39 CST
Message-ID: <m0ttwxM-001WBJC@sashimi.wwa.com>
References: <<199603051059.FAA03528@alpha.netaccess.on.ca>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O

I just responded to a previous message about the computer program, Glass Magic. 
 

Did you purchase it/see it for yourself?  I'm not concerned about doing text in 
glass as opposed to designing larger projects via a computer.  Did this product 
allow one to print designs larger than 8.5 x 11 on multiple pages?  That is my 
dilema.

Thanks for the response!

Russ
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From owner-glass Tue Mar  5 08:32:38 1996
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From: Kim Wiese <musician@mcs.net>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Large Images in Corel
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 10:13:15 -0600
Message-ID: <1996Mar5.41315.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O

Hello, List!

I find CorelDraw and Corel PhotoPaint indispensable for stained glass.

This is the process I've found to print larger images with PhotoPaint. 
 After scanning or creating your image, select Print from the File options 
menu.

Select the Options box from the Print menu screen.

Under the Layout tab, click on the "Print tile pages" option, and then 
choose the percentage enlargement desired.

Select OK.  Corel will automatically break your image into as many pages as 
necessary to print the enlargement.  This process can take awhile!

There are also subtleties to allow you to position the image, etc. but this 
is the basic process.  Another way is to choose a large paper size when 
creating the image file, and then selecting various parts of the image and 
saving them as individual files (helpful to avoid awkward page breaks).

Hope this helps.

Kim Wiese


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From owner-glass Tue Mar  5 10:39:24 1996
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X-Path: mail.gardencitynet.co.uk!kris
From: "Kris" <kris@gardencitynet.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: RE:Glass PC programs
Summary: Authenticated sender is <kris@mail.gardencitynet.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 18:37:13 +0000
Message-ID: <199603051842.SAA08104@linux.nildram.co.uk>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O

> Russ said
> Did you purchase it/see it for yourself?  I'm not concerned about doing text in 
> glass as opposed to designing larger projects via a computer.  Did this product 
> allow one to print designs larger than 8.5 x 11 on multiple pages?  That is my 
> dilema.

What PC and printer do you have Russ? I'm well on my way to producing the 
first prototype of my scaling program. It will work on the basis that 
you tell it the final  size (inches/centimetres) you want the image printed.
It will be a useful application for all those old 8pin pinters with 
tractor feed; the idea being that it is easier to stick a few 
vertical strips together. The design requirement from my glass artist 
is to scale from A4 to her maximum working size of 8feet x 5feet.
The DOS batch program will require a 386 PC with min 2Mbyte memory.
Images will need to be .BMP format B&W.
 
                             Kris
--
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"Everything in life is transient; including life itself"
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From owner-glass Tue Mar  5 10:44:48 1996
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X-Path: mail.gardencitynet.co.uk!kris
From: "Kris" <kris@gardencitynet.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Text in Glass
Summary: Authenticated sender is <kris@mail.gardencitynet.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 18:42:37 +0000
Message-ID: <199603051847.SAA08530@linux.nildram.co.uk>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O

> Russ said:
> Additionally, a friend of mine (who is an architect and also does stained glass) 
> is going to give me an older version of auto-cad to try out.

I trawled the Web for suitable 'cheap' packages that would run under 
DOS. The best I've found so far is NEOPAINT. I've played with a real 
glass design and it was useful to be able to flood fill with a colour 
or even fill the area with the texture from a photo. Distinct 
possibilities there - although it also seemed to have a few drawbacks 
as well!

Kris
--
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"Everything in life is transient; including life itself"
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From owner-glass Tue Mar  5 10:52:18 1996
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X-Path: alpha.netaccess.on.ca!tchivers
From: "Kathy Chivers" <tchivers@netaccess.on.ca>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject:       re:glass magic1.0
Date:          Tue, 5 Mar 1996 13:50:42 +0000
Message-ID: <199603051850.NAA19855@alpha.netaccess.on.ca>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O

Hi Russ,
     Yes I got my  copy of glass magic1.0 as a xmas gift.It is very,very 
simplistic with 1 alphabet,70 pieces of clip art and lamp 
patterns.The lamp portion allows you input the style and dimensions 
of the lamp you wish to make .It will then calculate the sizes of 
each piece and print the pattern pieces.
      You can't print any of the clip art larger than 6x6.The 
graphics are so basic.Iwish I had seen a copy before I put it on my 
Christmas list.I can't say what the 2..0 version is like except it 
helps you to design boxes and allows you to do some cut and 
paste(which you are unable to do with 1.0)
      I don't feel this program is  all its cracked up to be but 
hopefully it will open the door for more advanced programs sometime 
in the really near future!
      Kathy
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From owner-glass Tue Mar  5 12:45:15 1996
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X-Path: detroit.freenet.org!ae479
From: ae479@detroit.freenet.org (Sue Becker)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: cement
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 15:43:03 -0500
Message-ID: <199603052043.PAA09609@detroit.freenet.org>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O


Have been using the same formula as Andrea's successfully for many years.

A small addenda - since I use it in teaching a leading class, we mix a
large batch of the dry ingredients only, including lamp black which is
a personal preference, and then each student makes up enough for their
own project.  

Dry material, at least 1 cup for a small project and then add Lindseed
oil to make a very stiff, shiny batter.  Add Turpentine in very small
amounts til mix is similar to oozy mud.  Proceed as directed.

We allow at least 24 hours for the cement to "set"  and then point
the edges for the final cleaning.

Never have tried stove polish - it sounds like a great idea.  Thanks. 

Reply-To: ae479@detroit.freenet.org

--

p
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From owner-glass Tue Mar  5 13:26:34 1996
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X-Path: cornell.edu!pah8
From: "Patricia A. Homer" <pah8@cornell.edu>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: glass magic 2.0
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 16:24:55 -0500
Message-ID: <199603052124.QAA18939@postoffice4.mail.cornell.edu>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O

I bought this a few months ago.  The clip art is still primitive as is the
font feature.  As for the lamps-  It is great to have the calculations and
sizes computed for you.  there are three different designs that you can
arrange in a variety of ways.  I haven't made anythinh from it yet but it is
fun to play with.  The box feature is also a great idea- many variations
available for this also!    
The biggest problem for me is my printer has a color depth greater than
required for the  program so I have to reset and I loose alot of resolution

                                                                
Patricia Homer, VT		  
CVM at Cornell U.		         
pah8@cornell.edu		     
			     

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From owner-glass Tue Mar  5 14:58:54 1996
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X-Path: alpha.netaccess.on.ca!tchivers
From: "Kathy Chivers" <tchivers@netaccess.on.ca>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject:       Re: glass magic 2.0
Date:          Tue, 5 Mar 1996 17:57:32 +0000
Message-ID: <199603052257.RAA01087@alpha.netaccess.on.ca>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O

From:          "Patricia A. Homer" <pah8@cornell.edu>
To:            glass@bungi.com
Subject:       glass magic 2.0
Date:          Tue, 5 Mar 1996 16:24:55 -0500
Reply-to:      glass@bungi.com

I bought this a few months ago.  The clip art is still primitive as is the
font feature.  As for the lamps-  It is great to have the calculations and
sizes computed for you.  there are three different designs that you can
arrange in a variety of ways.  I haven't made anythinh from it yet but it is
fun to play with.  The box feature is also a great idea- many variations
available for this also!    
The biggest problem for me is my printer has a color depth greater than
required for the  program so I have to reset and I loose alot of resolution

                                                                
Patricia Homer, VT		  
CVM at Cornell U.		         
pah8@cornell.edu		     
			     

----
Hi Patricia,
     Have you seen glass magic 1.0? I was wondering if they have 
added different clip art  or have they it just add the box patterns to the existing 
program?
You are right it was fun to play with! 
      Kathy
----
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From owner-glass Tue Mar  5 18:22:02 1996
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X-Path: iconnect.net!rustyt
From: rustyt@iconnect.net
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: RE:Glass PC programs
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 96 20:20 CST
Message-ID: <m0tu8qG-001VxTC@sashimi.wwa.com>
References: <<199603051842.SAA08104@linux.nildram.co.uk>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O

I've got a 486 using Win95 and a laser jet printer (I think it should span 
multiple page prints... it's done it with other graphics that I've printed that 
were larger than 8.5 x 11).

I sure hope you get it working!!  :)

Russ
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From owner-glass Tue Mar  5 18:23:54 1996
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From: rustyt@iconnect.net
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: glass magic 2.0
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 96 20:22 CST
Message-ID: <m0tu8s2-001VxdC@sashimi.wwa.com>
References: <<199603052124.QAA18939@postoffice4.mail.cornell.edu>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O

Well, I think I will still go ahead and buy the newer version.  Delphi Glass 
said they would accept a return if I'm not fully satisfied with the product.  
Can't beat that!
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From owner-glass Tue Mar  5 18:28:28 1996
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From: rustyt@iconnect.net
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: re:glass magic1.0
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 96 20:25 CST
Message-ID: <m0tu8v5-001VxZC@sashimi.wwa.com>
References: <<199603051850.NAA19855@alpha.netaccess.on.ca>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O

Thanks Kathy,

I'm more into designing and making my own panels (I haven't even thought of 
attempting something like a lamp yet!!  I've only been at this for about 5 
months).  I create F.L. Wright style panels for windows or window coverings 
which is why I'm interested in getting the measurements just right with the 
right kind of software.

Thanks for the info!

Russ Taylor
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From owner-glass Tue Mar  5 19:31:29 1996
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X-Path: ix.netcom.com!izzy3
From: izzy3@ix.netcom.com (Michael Smoucha )
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Text in Glass
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 19:29:24 -0800
Message-ID: <199603060329.TAA25772@ix2.ix.netcom.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O

You wrote: 
>

>
>I did try Corel Draw and it was fine for a single 8.5 x 11 project but 
mine are 
>larger than that.  I couldn't see any feature that would allow me to 
span 
>multiple pages for a single drawing which I consider to be a draw 
back.

There is a check box in the printer settings that allows you to tile in 
corell draw. The max size for drawings in corell is 30 x 30 I have 
tiled sucessfully. If you have a lot of time and interest autocad is by 
far the absolute best program for drawing art glass. I've done a 
project 120' x 14' (yes that is feet!) comprised of 28 panels, 1/2 @65" 
x 63" I was able to print them out full size at my local printer.

The only drawback to autocad is the learning curve which is quite 
steep. You need to be truly dedicated to learn the program.

>
>Additionally, a friend of mine (who is an architect and also does 
stained glass) 
>is going to give me an older version of auto-cad to try out.
>
>I will let y'all know how it all goes.
>
>Russ
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>

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From owner-glass Tue Mar  5 20:25:52 1996
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X-Path: iconnect.net!rustyt
From: rustyt@iconnect.net
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Text in Glass
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 96 22:23 CST
Message-ID: <m0tuAkq-001VwsC@sashimi.wwa.com>
References: <<199603060329.TAA25772@ix2.ix.netcom.com>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O

Well, in as much as my "day job" is a Sr. Programmer/Analyst (AS400 platform 
which is why I'm P.C./Programmer inable) I can understand and cope with long 
learning curves.  Heck, some of my best software takes at least 20 days to fully 
understand.  hehehe


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From owner-glass Tue Mar  5 20:42:10 1996
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X-Path: cdsnet.net!hackney
From: hackney@cdsnet.net (Craig Hackney)
To: Glass@bungi.com
Subject: RE:  glass software questions
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 20:40:16 -0800
Message-ID: <199603060440.UAA26546@mail.cdsnet.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O

Dear Kris:

In response to your questions about stained glass patterns on computer disk,
our company offers the following titles on 3.5 disks-$5.99 each; 3/$15.00;
or 6/$25.00:

*NITELIGHTS-a collection of flowers, animals, and angels, and child related
*TROPICAL BIRDS-a collection of macaws, toucans, cockatiels, cockatoos, love
birds, parakeets, parrots
*WILD BIRDS-a collection of eagles, humming birds, ducks, peacocks, penquin,
geese, seagulls, swans, bluejays, cardinals
*FLOWERS-a collection of iris', roses, orchids, calla lillies, gardenias,
tulips, pansies, poppies
MARINE ANIMALS-a collection of whales, seals, starfish, sharks, clownfish,
dolphin, sea horses, swordfish, walrus, sea turtles
NAUTICAL SCENES-a collection of sailboats,power boats, lighthouses,
mermaids, sea shells, anchors
2-D PROJECTS-a collection of humming birds, humming birds with flower
standing, standing butterfly lady, standing angels, candle holders, pencil
holders, business card holders
PANEL LAMP PATTERNS-a collection of panel lamp patterns for 4 sides, 6
sides, and 8 sides with information on vase caps, harps, and lamp bases
WILD LIFE-a collection of deer, tiger, lion, squirrel, raccoon, skunk
FARM ANIMALS-a collection of horses, pigs, cows, chickens, and farm related
scenes
CATS-a collection of domestic cats, calicos, siamese, persian
SUNCATCHERS I-animal suncatchers including butterflies
SUNCATCHERS II-flowers
SUNCATCHERS III-misc. such as rainbows, hearts, balloons, etc.
MYTHICAL-a collection of dragons, wizards, castles, unicors, pegasus, angels
SCENIC-a collection of mountain scenes, wine/cheese scenes or wine related,
desert scenes, tree scenes, water scenes

All patterns are in the .BMP format.  They can be used in any drawing or
paint program that recognizes the .BMP format such as Paintshop Pro,
Paintbrush, ASL Paint, Image & Bits, Microsoft Desktop Publishing, Leadview
Pro, and many, many others, all of which can be downloaded for free on the Web.

Just some of the manipulations you can do with these shareware programs are:

*Size up or down to any size you want
*Flip (to cut out pattern on back)
*Rotate
*Add straight lines, arcs, circles, and free form shapes in many various widths
*Cut & paste (sections or whole image)
*Scale
*Color pixel by pixel, with different brushes or with one touch of a button
with a paint 
 roller, or add patterns and textures to any piece or all pieces
*combine parts of images to others images
*print unlimited copies (if your pattern is larger than 8.5 by 11,
paintbrush will print
 multiple pages that you can tape together
*add text (for pattern piece numbering)

If you use Leadview 3.0 for Windows (3.1, 3.X, Windows 95), there are many
more manipulations available, too numerous to list.

IBM, IBM Compatibles/386, 486, or Pentium/Windows 3.1, 3.X, and Windows 95

Apple version available soon.

To order:  Email us at hackney@cdsnet.net

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From owner-glass Wed Mar  6 05:50:11 1996
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X-Path: aol.com!GCmagazine
From: GCmagazine@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: glass software questions
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 1996 08:48:43 -0500
Message-ID: <1996Mar6.34843.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O

Dear Craig.
This is Joe Porcelli of Glass Craftsman Magazine. Would you please give me a
call at (215) 860-9947. (EST) I'd like to talk to you about the artwork you
supply for computer use. It sounds like something I'd like to let our readers
know about. 

Sincerely,

Joe Porcelli/Publisher
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From owner-glass Wed Mar  6 08:03:39 1996
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X-Path: eos.ncsu.edu!jbbrauer
From: "James Bartley Brauer" <jbbrauer@eos.ncsu.edu>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Computer Assisted Glass Projects
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 1996 11:00:08 -0500
Message-ID: <9603061100.ZM10233@eos.ncsu.edu>
References: <<199603050439.UAA19279@otter.mbay.net>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O

I have been following the discussion on computer assisted glass design and
would like to offer a suggestion, which has worked for me-

Try the Paint program, which is part of Windows 3.1.
Here are some of the things it will do:

- You can design a pattern on the screen, save it, then experiment with the
color fill feautre.  This is implemented by selecting the paint roller icon,
clicking on the color you want, then clicking in the bounded region you want to
fill with color.

- Drawings can be enlarged to cover multiple pages.  This is accomplished by
choosing the print, from the file menu, then increasing the scaling percentage
in the print options.  Be sure to use fine lines for your small drawing, as the
scaled print will enlarge these lines.  Also, it may be necessary use the
shrink/grow option to adjust the aspect ratio.  The aspect ratio of a printer
is what causes a circle on screen, to be printed as an oval.

- For those who have a scanner, most scanner programs have the option to save
files as a .bmp, the format Paint uses.  By scanning a pattern, then opening
the scanned image with Paint, it may be resized, colored, or changed.

Most of the programs I have seen discussed on this news-group are capable of
these features, and some of the programs designed specifically for stained
glass work sound very interesting.  But, I have found MS-Paint to be a cheap,
easy solution.

Thanks,
James B. Brauer
----
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From owner-glass Wed Mar  6 12:39:05 1996
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Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6)
	id m0tuPxq-0000w5a; Wed, 6 Mar 96 12:37 PST
X-Path: ccinet.ab.ca!kgreenwell
From: kgreenwell@ccinet.ab.ca (Pat Greenwell)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: RE:  glass software questions
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 13:33:11 -0700
Message-ID: <9603052033.AA09699@bach.ccinet.ab.ca>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O

Hi Craig:
Sound like a great assortment of software. Please hurry with the MAC
version and e-mail me or post generally when it is available.
Thanks-Pat


kgreenwell@ccinet.ab.ca
Pat Greenwel
5302 57th St.,
Ponoka,Alberta,Canada
T4J 1M4



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From owner-glass Wed Mar  6 16:32:06 1996
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	id m0tuTbV-0000qfa; Wed, 6 Mar 96 16:30 PST
X-Path: aol.com!ROGER0044
From: ROGER0044@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: glass software questions
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 1996 19:30:40 -0500
Message-ID: <1996Mar6.143040.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O

Mr. Porcelli

  Could you please provide information on subscription opportunities for your
publication.  I have been crafting with glass for approx. 15 years, and am
always looking for new avenues for glass information and ideas.

  By the way I am looking forward to meeting you in Las Vegas at the end of
the month.

  Thank You for any info you may provide.

Roger Granbois
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From owner-glass Wed Mar  6 16:41:37 1996
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	id m0tuTlO-0000xoa; Wed, 6 Mar 96 16:41 PST
X-Path: ibm.net!Gordon.Newell
From: Gordon.Newell@ibm.net
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Text in Glass
Date: Wed, 06 Mar 96 12:37:44
Message-ID: <199603070040.AAA60740@smtp-gw01.ny.us.ibm.net>
References: <<m0ttwv6-001WBFC@sashimi.wwa.com>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O

In <m0ttwv6-001WBFC@sashimi.wwa.com>, on 03/05/96 at 07:36 AM,
   rustyt@iconnect.net said:

Text deleted .....

>I did try Corel Draw and it was fine for a single 8.5 x 11 project but
>mine are  larger than that.  I couldn't see any feature that would allow
>me to span  multiple pages for a single drawing which I consider to be a
>draw back.

Text deleted ...

>Russ

Russ,

In version 5.0 and maybe in the previous versions, under PRINT then
OPTIONS, there is a check box for PRINT TILED PAGES. I have used this to
output a design that was 580mm x 800mm. It consisted of 9 A4 size (210mm x
297mm) pages that I taped together. Worked fine.

Corel also allows you to export your file in DXF format that can be read
by Autocad etc. Then if you have access to a large plotter, you can have
the cartoon printed in one piece.

---------------------------------------------------------- 
Gordon Newell                  Telephone: +61 3 9708 0134
Chalcot Micro Systems          Mobile: 041 111 6636 
                               Fax: +61 3 9221 3958
---------------------------------------------------------


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From owner-glass Wed Mar  6 18:10:18 1996
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	id m0tuV8k-0000rJa; Wed, 6 Mar 96 18:09 PST
X-Path: swin.edu.au!andreaking
From: "Andrea King" <andreaking@swin.edu.au>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Glass Software
Summary: Authenticated sender is <andreaking@gpo.swin.edu.au>
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 1996 09:32:24 +0000
Message-ID: <199603070207.AA28315@lucy.swin.edu.au>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Swinburne University
Precedence: bulk
Status: O

Craig,

The patterns available on disk sound great and I would like to know 
where to access the 'free' drawings on the Web!!  Also can anyone 
give me a few clues as to how to download graphics files.  I use 
Netscape and the programs I have are MS Publisher, Painshop and Corel 
Draw operating with Windows 3.1.

Thanks

Andrea
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From owner-glass Wed Mar  6 21:59:13 1996
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Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6)
	id m0tuYgK-0000Z9a; Wed, 6 Mar 96 21:56 PST
X-Path: aol.com!BLFstar
From: BLFstar@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Source for Kaleidoscope Parts
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 1996 00:55:55 -0500
Message-ID: <1996Mar6.195555.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O

The axle assemblies are available through most catalogs, particularly
wholesale.  If you are not buying wholesale, ask your retailer to order for
you from their supplier.  If you haven't one available, write back and I'll
provide you with more info.  Barbara
----
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From owner-glass Thu Mar  7 08:16:06 1996
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	id m0tui0c-0000Ira; Thu, 7 Mar 96 07:53 PST
X-Path: aol.com!GCmagazine
From: GCmagazine@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: glass software questions
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 1996 08:19:32 -0500
Message-ID: <960307081930_343736515@emout04.mail.aol.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O

Roger,
Las Vegas should be great. Be sure to stop by the Glass Craftsman/Glass
Library booth to say hello. If you'd like info about the mag, talk to Krista
at (215)860-9947. Let her know you're from AOL. She 'll have a special offer
for you.

Regards,

Joe Porcelli
----
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From owner-glass Fri Mar  8 07:25:40 1996
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	id m0tv3zj-0000G8a; Fri, 8 Mar 96 07:22 PST
X-Path: aristotle.net!rwsmith
From: Rebecca Smith <rwsmith@aristotle.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: no mail
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 1996 09:32:51 -0600
Message-ID: <199603081532.JAA12200@aristotle.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O

Is anyone still out there? I have not had any glass associated mail come
across for a couple of days now. 


Rebecca Smith (rwsmith@aristotle.net)

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From owner-glass Fri Mar  8 07:53:06 1996
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	id m0tv4Rd-00010ca; Fri, 8 Mar 96 07:51 PST
X-Path: mail.utexas.edu!kgbryant
From: kgbryant@mail.utexas.edu (Kelly Bryant)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: no mail
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 1996 09:50:49 -0600
Message-ID: <v01530520ad65b2e38143@[128.83.166.106]>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O

I am out here Rebecca!  I have just been so busy with my new panel and
trying to finish one that I've been working on forever.  This weekend is
suppose to be and nice pretty so I am looking forward to getting tons of
glass done.  Have fun glassing people!  Talk to you later
Kelly

>Is anyone still out there? I have not had any glass associated mail come
>across for a couple of days now.
>
>
>Rebecca Smith (rwsmith@aristotle.net)
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass



===================================================================
Kelly Bryant
Placement Coordinator
Department of Geological Sciences
The University of Texas at Austin

(512)471-4486
(512)471-9425 FAX
kgbryant@mail.utexas.edu
===================================================================


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From owner-glass Fri Mar  8 08:22:46 1996
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	id m0tv4uy-0000ina; Fri, 8 Mar 96 08:21 PST
X-Path: airmail.net!bad
From: bad@airmail.net (Beckie Decker)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: An introduction
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 1996 10:21:13 -0600 (CST)
Message-ID: <199603081621.KAA20950@server.iadfw.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O

Hi all,

Carol Rumak visited my web site and told me about the list.  I signed on a
few days ago and think it's time I introduce myself. 

I'm Beckie Decker near Dallas.  I did my first piece of stained glass over
15 years ago.  I only became 'official' 7 years ago, when I took over my
husbands drafting shop behind our house.  I seem to  be specializing in dogs
in glass!  I never expected my work to take that direction. I'm mostly self
taught and really look forward to learning more from this group. 

You can visit my site at;  http://web2.airmail.net/~bad/sunlit.htm

Bye for now,

Beckie

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From owner-glass Fri Mar  8 09:28:28 1996
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	id m0tv5vj-0000u8a; Fri, 8 Mar 96 09:26 PST
X-Path: pig.net!chicago
From: carole pearson <chicago@pig.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: no mail
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 1996 12:27:36 -0500
Message-ID: <199603081727.AA13745@pig.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O

At 09:32 AM 3/8/96 -0600, you wrote:
>Is anyone still out there? I have not had any glass associated mail come
>across for a couple of days now. 
>
>
>Rebecca Smith (rwsmith@aristotle.net)
>
>----
Hi Rebecca, 
I also have not had any mail from glass@bungi.com in about 2 or 3 days. I
was wondering if the group went kapoot or something. I've sure missed the
posts. I need all the inspiration I can get.

Carole Pearson freezing in North Central Florida (no kidding!!!)
chicago@pig,net
>

----
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From owner-glass Fri Mar  8 12:46:23 1996
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	id m0tv92U-0000ura; Fri, 8 Mar 96 12:45 PST
X-Path: aristotle.net!rwsmith
From: Rebecca Smith <rwsmith@aristotle.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: thanks all
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 1996 14:55:52 -0600
Message-ID: <199603082055.OAA22372@aristotle.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O

Thanks to all who replyed that we are all still here. Enjoy the list to much
to lose it.


Rebecca Smith (rwsmith@aristotle.net)

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From owner-glass Fri Mar  8 13:55:25 1996
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X-Path: camadm.Camosun.BC.CA!COOPERD
From: cooperd@camadm.Camosun.BC.CA
To: "GLASS@BUNGI.COM" <GLASS@BUNGI.COM>
Subject: tape
Date: Fri, 08 Mar 1996 13:53:43 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1996Mar8.55343.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O

Hi, everyone! I've be very busy making simple lamps, I would like to 
try some more complicated ones but the last one I made I had quite a 
problem with keeping it together while standing it up ready to solder,
what is the best kind of tape to use? I am using black electrical tape
now. My other question is what's the best way to put on the skirt, piece
by piece or in one piece all together?  The books I have give you both ways.
                                                                   Donna!!! 
 
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From owner-glass Fri Mar  8 18:09:34 1996
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	id m0tvE4q-0000ZJa; Fri, 8 Mar 96 18:08 PST
X-Path: macnet.com!jhendershott
From: jhendershott@macnet.com (Janie Hendershott)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: An introduction
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 1996 17:38:21 -0800
Message-ID: <199603090138.RAA11355@jack.macnet.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O

>Hi all,
>
>Carol Rumak visited my web site and told me about the list.  I signed on a
>few days ago and think it's time I introduce myself. 
>
>I'm Beckie Decker near Dallas.  I did my first piece of stained glass over
>15 years ago.  I only became 'official' 7 years ago, when I took over my
>husbands drafting shop behind our house.  I seem to  be specializing in dogs
>in glass!  I never expected my work to take that direction. I'm mostly self
>taught and really look forward to learning more from this group. 
>
>You can visit my site at;  http://web2.airmail.net/~bad/sunlit.htm

I to find several glass dogs hanging in my windows.  I have raised Dobermans
for many many years, so it seemed only natural when I started doing glass
about 2 years ago, that I do some glass dobes.  What breeds do you find
emerging from your glass?
I just recently sent one of my flesh and blood type dobie pups to your area,
to Ft. Worth to be exact.  I would be interested in seeing some of what your
doing.

Welcome to the list, there seems to be a lot of useful information in
addition to some great comments flowing through. 

Janie Hendershott
jhendershott@macnet.com

----
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From owner-glass Fri Mar  8 18:54:25 1996
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6)
	id m0tvEm7-0000tGa; Fri, 8 Mar 96 18:52 PST
X-Path: idirect.com!mrum
From: mrum@idirect.com (mike & carol)
To: glass@BUNGI.COM
Subject: Re: tape
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 1996 21:51:45 -0500
Message-ID: <199603090251.VAA00200@lucid.idirect.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O

>Hi, everyone! I've be very busy making simple lamps, I would like to 
>try some more complicated ones but the last one I made I had quite a 
>problem with keeping it together while standing it up ready to solder,
>what is the best kind of tape to use? I am using black electrical tape
>now. My other question is what's the best way to put on the skirt, piece
>by piece or in one piece all together?  The books I have give you both ways.
>                                                                   Donna!!! 
Hi Donna, this is Carol
I also use black electrical tape, lots of it!  So much so, that there is
barely room to tack solder each seam in about 3 places before having to
start peeling it very carefully off.  Part of the problem may be too much
flux because other than solder, I don't know anything that adheres to flux.

As to skirt pieces, I put them on piece by piece.  That way I can make sure
each piece is properly lined up.  And then you can always ease in the last
piece or trim it down as needed.  The best way?  IMHO, whatever you are
comfortable with is my suggestion.

Its been so {expletive deleted} cold here in southern Ontario, that I am
huddled over either the soldering iron or computer to keep warm!  Is anyone
else getting ready for the ubiquitous spring craft shows?  

*******************************************
Mike and Carol Rumak
Mississauga, Ontario
Canada

Visit Carols Stained Glass Gallery at:
http://web.idirect.com/~studio
*******************************************

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From owner-glass Fri Mar  8 19:30:46 1996
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6)
	id m0tvFKz-0000LQa; Fri, 8 Mar 96 19:28 PST
X-Path: airmail.net!bad
From: bad@airmail.net (Beckie Decker)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: An introduction
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 1996 21:28:39 -0600 (CST)
Message-ID: <199603090328.VAA09994@server.iadfw.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O

>I to find several glass dogs hanging in my windows.  I have raised Dobermans
>for many many years, so it seemed only natural when I started doing glass
>about 2 years ago, that I do some glass dobes.  What breeds do you find
>emerging from your glass?
>I just recently sent one of my flesh and blood type dobie pups to your area,
>to Ft. Worth to be exact.  I would be interested in seeing some of what your
>doing.
>
>Welcome to the list, there seems to be a lot of useful information in
>addition to some great comments flowing through. 
>
>Janie Hendershott
>jhendershott@macnet.com

*** Janie, I do big, old drooling bloodhounds.  They have great, deep folds
that lend themselves to stained glass design.  I'm looking to expand to more
breeds, and will be doing the BIS award for um...a Kennel club in New Jersey
(have forgotten the name) the end of this month. I have no idea what breed
will win.  Should be fun!  I'm hoping it not a fuzzy chow.  Folds I can
do...fuzz? I may be asking for advise on textures. 

Thanks for the warm welcome,

Beckie
bad@airmail.net
http://web2.airmail.net/~bad/

             Mama to: Nate the Gentleman Hound
  @-->-->--        Myrtle the Good Dane        --<--<--@
           and the two-leggers, Laura and Sarah

The one thing I know for sure; never shave your legs when you have chill bumps.

----
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From owner-glass Fri Mar  8 20:04:54 1996
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6)
	id m0tvFs3-0000xqa; Fri, 8 Mar 96 20:03 PST
X-Path: ix.netcom.com!glaslite
From: glaslite@ix.netcom.com (Fred Sorg )
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: tape
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 1996 20:02:58 -0800
Message-ID: <199603090402.UAA00961@ix6.ix.netcom.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O

You wrote: 
>
>Hi, everyone! I've be very busy making simple lamps, I would like to 
>try some more complicated ones but the last one I made I had quite a 
>problem with keeping it together while standing it up ready to solder,
>what is the best kind of tape to use? I am using black electrical tape
>now. My other question is what's the best way to put on the skirt, 
piece
>by piece or in one piece all together?  The books I have give you both 
ways.
>                                                                   
Donna!!! 
> 

Hi Donna,
Although the following sounds like an advertisement or that I have a 
stake in the company - its not and I don't. I just like to support 
products that work!
I found the most useful item yet for holding my lamp panels together - 
its called the "Lamp Clamp", and its manufactured by 'The Emerald 
Rainbow' out of Clearwater, Fl. Their number is: 813-532-9001.
You can say goodby to tape, tack solder or tacky wax. This Lamp Clamp
really works & you don't have to have 6 hands. Also, you should ask 
them about their "lamp wedgie". You can either speak to Mark or Pamela 
Wallace. Mark is a wiz at designing items to help the stained glass 
artist.
When you talk to them, tell them Fred from Boca says hello!
Good luck in your work & have fun!
Fred
 
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>

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From owner-glass Fri Mar  8 23:00:54 1996
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Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6)
	id m0tvIbD-0000J7a; Fri, 8 Mar 96 22:57 PST
X-Path: mbay.net!drno
From: "Joseph D. Noble" <drno@mbay.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: no mail
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 1996 22:57:45 -0800
Message-ID: <199603090657.WAA07873@otter.mbay.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O

At 09:32 AM 3/8/96 -0600, you wrote:
>Is anyone still out there? I have not had any glass associated mail come
>across for a couple of days now. 
>
>
>Rebecca Smith (rwsmith@aristotle.net)
>
>----
Well, maybe you are not getting the download from bungi or something.  I get
mail about every day.  I guess since I am getting this message then you are
at least getting out.  Try leaving a message to the bungi link to make sure
you are on the mailing list.  Good luck

David Noble
DR NO
Monterey, CA

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From owner-glass Fri Mar  8 23:10:13 1996
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Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6)
	id m0tvIlT-0000vOa; Fri, 8 Mar 96 23:08 PST
X-Path: macnet.com!jhendershott
From: jhendershott@macnet.com (Janie Hendershott)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: An introduction
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 1996 23:04:29 -0800
Message-ID: <199603090704.XAA19160@jack.macnet.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O


>do...fuzz? I may be asking for advise on textures. 
>
>Thanks for the warm welcome,
>
>Beckie
>bad@airmail.net
>http://web2.airmail.net/~bad/

Beckie 

Maybe you should try fusing some stringers together.  Just hope it isnt a
Komondor!  I'm working on some llamas for the spring and summer llama shows
up here.  If there are any llama loving artists out there, I could sure use
some help with patterns!!!  They are fuzzy too.  I think some heavy ripple
might do the job.

Janie

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From owner-glass Sat Mar  9 05:36:18 1996
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X-Path: tiac.net!glaslady
From: glaslady@tiac.net (glaslady)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: re:tape
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 1996 13:32:48 GMT
Message-ID: <199603091332.NAA17297@prozac.tiac.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O

masking tape - it holds even if flux gets on it - it comes in various widths
and it's cheaper than electrical tape.

it's also good for dealing with bleed through, should you not have
cut/ground perfectly

I also use the wedgies(some mentioned these earlier), but more to hold panel
lamps/boxes at angles for soldering...

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From owner-glass Sat Mar  9 05:39:08 1996
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From: "Kathy Chivers" <tchivers@netaccess.on.ca>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject:       Re: doggie patterns
Date:          Sat, 9 Mar 1996 08:38:04 +0000
Message-ID: <199603091338.IAA18893@alpha.netaccess.on.ca>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: ORr



Hi All,
    I'm really happy to be receiving glass mail again.I thought 
my e-mail was off so I finally sent myself  e-mail just to  check if  all was 
in receiving order! Boy,I never realized I could be so boring!!!
    Anyways,with all the talk of dogs, I was hoping someone 
could help me locate a beagle pattern.My husband talked me into getting 
a beagle (his childhood pet )a few months back so I would love 
to surprise him with  a panel.Any good beagle pattterns out there? 
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
   I also wondered what you would think of sending in helpful 
tips on a regular basis?Another mailing list I used to belong to ,had 
everyone send in 1 tip a month.The tips could be in regard to 
any aspect of working with glass.If we do this, perhaps we could pick 
a particular day of the week/month.There was a "Mistress Of Guilt" who reminded everyone when the 
tips were slow in coming. You can't imagine how much can be learned 
even for the most seasoned glass artist..
  What do you think? Let's get some dialogue going.
   I also like the introductions some have been doing lately.I never 
knew that we were to do this .I will send mine later today.
  Later.
  Kathy
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From owner-glass Sat Mar  9 08:36:34 1996
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	id m0tvRc0-0000Bxa; Sat, 9 Mar 96 08:35 PST
To: rglass-1
X-Path: direct.ca!kmccullo
From: direct.ca!kmccullo
Subject: Re: doggie patterns
Date: Sat Mar  9 08:35:12 1996
Message-ID: <96Mar9.083109-0800pdt.165813-27060+241@aphex.direct.ca>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O

In reply to yours, I think having tip of the week or month is a great idea. I'm always looking for new one's that might work better or are easier. 
As for beagle pattern, I will look thru my patterns. 
Karin
>
>
>Hi All,
>    I'm really happy to be receiving glass mail again.I thought 
>my e-mail was off so I finally sent myself  e-mail just to  check if  all was 
>in receiving order! Boy,I never realized I could be so boring!!!
>    Anyways,with all the talk of dogs, I was hoping someone 
>could help me locate a beagle pattern.My husband talked me into getting 
>a beagle (his childhood pet )a few months back so I would love 
>to surprise him with  a panel.Any good beagle pattterns out there? 
>Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>   I also wondered what you would think of sending in helpful 
>tips on a regular basis?Another mailing list I used to belong to ,had 
>everyone send in 1 tip a month.The tips could be in regard to 
>any aspect of working with glass.If we do this, perhaps we could pick 
>a particular day of the week/month.There was a "Mistress Of Guilt" who reminded everyone when the 
>tips were slow in coming. You can't imagine how much can be learned 
>even for the most seasoned glass artist..
>  What do you think? Let's get some dialogue going.
>   I also like the introductions some have been doing lately.I never 
>knew that we were to do this .I will send mine later today.
>  Later.
>  Kathy
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
>

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From owner-glass Sat Mar  9 08:49:44 1996
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	id m0tvRo7-0000q2a; Sat, 9 Mar 96 08:47 PST
To: rglass-1
X-Path: direct.ca!kmccullo
From: direct.ca!kmccullo
Subject: Re: no mail
Date: Sat Mar  9 08:47:44 1996
Message-ID: <96Mar9.084334-0800pdt.165704-27060+245@aphex.direct.ca>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O

Maybe I'm getting all your e-mail (just kidding) It seems to be coming out of my ears, but I enjoy it and I'm certainly not complaining. 
Who said they were cold down in Florida. Try living in an igloo. 
Karin
>At 09:32 AM 3/8/96 -0600, you wrote:
>>Is anyone still out there? I have not had any glass associated mail come
>>across for a couple of days now. 
>>
>>
>>Rebecca Smith (rwsmith@aristotle.net)
>>
>>----
>Hi Rebecca, 
>I also have not had any mail from glass@bungi.com in about 2 or 3 days. I
>was wondering if the group went kapoot or something. I've sure missed the
>posts. I need all the inspiration I can get.
>
>Carole Pearson freezing in North Central Florida (no kidding!!!)
>chicago@pig,net
>>
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
>

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From owner-glass Sat Mar  9 08:49:55 1996
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	id m0tvRoL-00010Ca; Sat, 9 Mar 96 08:48 PST
To: rglass-1
X-Path: direct.ca!kmccullo
From: direct.ca!kmccullo
Subject: Re: no mail
Date: Sat Mar  9 08:47:53 1996
Message-ID: <96Mar9.084350-0800pdt.165704-27069+289@aphex.direct.ca>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O

Maybe I'm getting all your e-mail (just kidding) It seems to be coming out of my ears, but I enjoy it and I'm certainly not complaining. 
Who said they were cold down in Florida. Try living in an igloo. 
Karin
>At 09:32 AM 3/8/96 -0600, you wrote:
>>Is anyone still out there? I have not had any glass associated mail come
>>across for a couple of days now. 
>>
>>
>>Rebecca Smith (rwsmith@aristotle.net)
>>
>>----
>Hi Rebecca, 
>I also have not had any mail from glass@bungi.com in about 2 or 3 days. I
>was wondering if the group went kapoot or something. I've sure missed the
>posts. I need all the inspiration I can get.
>
>Carole Pearson freezing in North Central Florida (no kidding!!!)
>chicago@pig,net
>>
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
>

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From owner-glass Sat Mar  9 09:18:29 1996
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To: rglass-1
X-Path: cpcn.com!maruca
From: maruca@cpcn.com (la madrugadora)
Subject: One "nay" vote here
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 1996 12:16:03 -0500
Message-ID: <9603091716.AA21301@info.cpcn.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O

Hello Kathy!

How can it be that you were part of a list who worshipped our Lady of
Perpetual Guilt and were never coerced to submit a bio? 

My feeling is those who want to make like the TV Greengrocer with his
"Tip fer th'Day" are welcome to, same for posting CVs. However, I do
feel strongly that  both should be optional. I subscribed to the
phytopharmacognosy list merely to lurk and learn. When I was badgered to
post a bio to this list of PhDs and their lengthy list of
accomplishments, I opted to drop the list, rather than be pushed. I'm
sure there are other lurkers on the glass list who would do the same if
we were to pressure them.

As for submitting tips, I've only been at this a few years. The only
thing I have to contribute is questions, no answers.

I propose that we continue with the freedom to participate only as we
are moved to, not as some regulation of membership dictates.

Mary Armstrong
maruca@cpcn.com
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From owner-glass Sat Mar  9 11:46:53 1996
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X-Path: alpha.netaccess.on.ca!tchivers
From: "Kathy Chivers" <tchivers@netaccess.on.ca>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject:       Re: doggie patterns
Date:          Sat, 9 Mar 1996 14:28:21 +0000
Message-ID: <199603091945.OAA28895@alpha.netaccess.on.ca>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O

Hi Karin,
Thanks for your post. I would really appreciate it if you found a 
beagle pattern or let me know which book it is from
Thanks again.
Kathy


In reply to yours, I think having tip of the week or month is a great idea. I'm always looking for new one's that might work better or are easier. 
As for beagle pattern, I will look thru my patterns. 
Karin
>
>
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From owner-glass Sat Mar  9 12:31:36 1996
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From: "Kathy Chivers" <tchivers@netaccess.on.ca>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject:       RE:nay vote
Date:          Sat, 9 Mar 1996 15:30:36 +0000
Message-ID: <199603092030.PAA00422@alpha.netaccess.on.ca>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O

Dear Mary,
    I am very sorry that I offended you with my suggestion.I'm not 
sure who the Greengrocer is,but I certainly didn't mean to copy.
I have  been doing glass for less than 2 years and would probably 
have more questions than tips as well.. I have only been on the list 
a couple of months and liked the bios.I know that on the Tole 
painting mailing list,( the list I was on previously) the tip idea was a good learning experience .
     As for the Mistress of Guilt idea,itwas  a humourous idea that was NEVER 
enforced with any seriousness..Lurkers were never raked over the 
coals.I was a lurker on that list(because of my lack of expertise)a
      Maybe you are right,Mary. It might be best to lurk and learn.
So sorry if I offended anyone.There has been a few posts of late 
stating that there was a lack of mail.I thought perhaps a tip idea 
would help.I certainly didn't mean to put anyone under any pressure.
       I enjoy this list so much and have learned ...
       Kathy
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From owner-glass Sat Mar  9 12:53:30 1996
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X-Path: aol.com!LBettin
From: LBettin@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re Tips
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 1996 15:52:41 -0500
Message-ID: <1996Mar9.105241.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O

Tips sound really great to me also.  Were you thinking of having any ground
rules, or just free wheeling.   But I kinda agree that this should be
optional.  As an inducement, -- maybe there could be some sort of prize for
the best tip of the month?  Although that might be hard to administer.  Just
thinking on the keyboard.  Laura
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From owner-glass Sat Mar  9 13:22:55 1996
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From: SUSAN M COOK <scook@fbo.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: nay vote
Date: Wed, 07 Feb 1996 13:35:18 -0800
Message-ID: <1996Feb7.53518.0>
References: <<199603092030.PAA00422@alpha.netaccess.on.ca>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O

Kathy Chivers wrote:
> 
> Dear Mary,
>     I am very sorry that I offended you with my suggestion.I'm not
> sure who the Greengrocer is,but I certainly didn't mean to copy.
> I have  been doing glass for less than 2 years and would probably
> have more questions than tips as well.. I have only been on the list
> a couple of months and liked the bios.I know that on the Tole
> painting mailing list,( the list I was on previously) the tip idea was a good learning experience .
>      As for the Mistress of Guilt idea,itwas  a humourous idea that was NEVER
> enforced with any seriousness..Lurkers were never raked over the
> coals.I was a lurker on that list(because of my lack of expertise)a
>       Maybe you are right,Mary. It might be best to lurk and learn.
> So sorry if I offended anyone.There has been a few posts of late
> stating that there was a lack of mail.I thought perhaps a tip idea
> would help.I certainly didn't mean to put anyone under any pressure.
>        I enjoy this list so much and have learned ...
>        Kathy
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glassKathy;
I too enjoy the list very much. I'm only a lurker at this point as I have 
only been in stained glass for a few months.  I know I would learn a lot 
from the rest of you if you do the tip of the month idea, however I would 
not be in a position to give any back at this point.

Please excuse the date on my mail I'm having a problem at present, bare 
with me.

Susie
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From owner-glass Sat Mar  9 18:59:44 1996
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X-Path: wnc.com!artglass
From: artglass@wnc.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: re:glass magic1.0
Date: 9 Mar 1996 22:21:54 EDT
Message-ID: <199603100255.VAA06942@mail-hub.interpath.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O

Don't bother with 2.0, this was a spur of the moment purchase that does
not allow for enlargement and is frankly, not worth purchasing.  You
might try looking into a product cal GlasDesign Systems (800 850-9340),
this gentleman tells me that he has top design product that works with
generic cad, the program has a library of over 600 designs attached to
it.  The only drawback is cost$$$$$$$$!!.
Let me know what you think of his sales pitch.
----
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From owner-glass Sat Mar  9 19:18:17 1996
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X-Path: wnc.com!artglass
From: artglass@wnc.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: no mail
Date: 9 Mar 1996 22:40:26 EDT
Message-ID: <199603100314.WAA09653@mail-hub.interpath.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O

I'm out here check out the following website
www.crescendoweb.com/glassgiraf/e mail GlassFiraf@AOL.com, great webpage
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From owner-glass Sat Mar  9 19:20:00 1996
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X-Path: wnc.com!artglass
From: artglass@wnc.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: An introduction
Date: 9 Mar 1996 22:41:46 EDT
Message-ID: <199603100315.WAA09859@mail-hub.interpath.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O

Do you have a long coat Chihuahua pattern?  I would really be
interested.
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From owner-glass Sat Mar  9 19:25:15 1996
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From: artglass@wnc.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re Tips
Date: 9 Mar 1996 22:48:00 EDT
Message-ID: <199603100321.WAA10580@mail-hub.interpath.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O

Tips sound great to me, Never can learn to many new and quicker ways to
do things.
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From owner-glass Sat Mar  9 19:44:17 1996
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X-Path: wnc.com!artglass
From: artglass@wnc.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: An introduction
Date: 9 Mar 1996 23:07:04 EDT
Message-ID: <199603100340.WAA13015@mail-hub.interpath.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O

I am looking for a long coat chihuahua pattern, if you have such a
creature please let me know.
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From owner-glass Sat Mar  9 20:00:33 1996
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X-Path: pig.net!chicago
From: carole pearson <chicago@pig.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: no mail
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 1996 23:00:56 -0500
Message-ID: <199603100400.AA10765@pig.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O

At , you wrote:
>Maybe I'm getting all your e-mail (just kidding) It seems to be coming out
of my ears, but I enjoy it and I'm certainly not complaining. 
>Who said they were cold down in Florida. Try living in an igloo. 
>Karin

Hello Karin,
You bet we're cold down here in Florida. Today the wind chill factor in
Daytona Beach was 11 (yes, ELEVEN ) degrees. I'm about to wear out my only
pair of earmuffs on this cold spell, which brings me to my question, with
thoughts of spring whirling around in my head:

Have any of you worked on any of the garden paving stones? The ones that you
use glass in the bottom of a plastic form and then pour concrete over? The
store in Ocala has them but the large forms are $30.00.  Sure seems pricey.
Would appreciate any feed back from anyone that knows about these. 

Carole Pearson 
chicago@pig.net

*******************************************************************

People stand in awe of the animal trainer in a cage with a half dozen lions
and tigers, all that is, except a  school bus driver.
                                                             W. Hembach

*******************************************************************




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From owner-glass Sat Mar  9 20:25:56 1996
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Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6)
	id m0tvcfp-0000qza; Sat, 9 Mar 96 20:24 PST
X-Path: gr.cns.net!Pristine
From: Pristine <Pristine@gr.cns.net>
To: Glass@bungi.com
Subject: Where are you?
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 1996 00:26:28 -0800
Message-ID: <1996Mar9.162628.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Pristine Glass Co.
Precedence: bulk
Status: O

Subscribe.
In the event that I have been dropped from the list.
(I haven't recieved mail in a while.)

-- 
    * mickey mackenzie for Pristine Glass Co.
    * <mickey> pristine@gr.cns.net * http://www.cns.net/pristine
    also
    * mickey@grfn.org * http://www.grfn.org/~mickey
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From owner-glass Sat Mar  9 20:39:00 1996
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X-Path: iconnect.net!rustyt
From: rustyt@iconnect.net
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: re:glass magic1.0
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 96 22:37 CST
Message-ID: <m0tvcsh-001W36C@sashimi.wwa.com>
References: <<199603100255.VAA06942@mail-hub.interpath.net>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O

But, the question is... how much is he asking?  If it's too much I won't bother 
with a phone call.  

I have tried the Corel Draw suggestion again, following the suggestions given 
through this string.  I may well have chosen the wrong settings, but my end 
results were as follows:

I created a supposed 4 inch square along with multiple layers of rectangles and 
squares surrounding it.  The end result should have been about a square 3 foot. 
 When I printed the design, it did indeed span multiple pages of print using my 
HP DeskJet 540 but it only printed the outter border and none of the inner 
drawings.

So, I'm back to the drawing board.  One thought I did have though... try using 
an older printer such as a dot matrix printer capable of printing on green-bar 
sized paper.  The only problem there:  I don't have one and the lowest price 
I've received through BBS classifieds here in the Chicago area is over $100 for 
a 4 year old Panasonic 24 pin printer.  Still looking, tho!  :)

Thanks for the suggestions...  I shall perservere!!!  

In the interim, do any of y'all have stained glass stores (retail, selling end 
items only) in your area?  There is one in a place called Gurnee Mall that sells 
finished products only.  They are very secretive about where the pieces come 
from and will not accept products from individuals (like myself).  Just 
wondering where these items come from.  Some of the pieces are "ok" but then 
again, some of them look rather shoddy (as in the kind of stuff I used to 
((well, ok, and sometimes still do)) produce).

Just courious.

Rustyt@iconnect.net (just a bit north of Chicago, IL where the wind will knock 
ya off your feet... especially a boy hailing from Atlanta, GA like myself!)



On 9 Mar 1996, artglass@wnc.com wrote:
>Don't bother with 2.0, this was a spur of the moment purchase that does
>not allow for enlargement and is frankly, not worth purchasing.  You
>might try looking into a product cal GlasDesign Systems (800 850-9340),
>this gentleman tells me that he has top design product that works with
>generic cad, the program has a library of over 600 designs attached to
>it.  The only drawback is cost$$$$$$$$!!.
>Let me know what you think of his sales pitch.
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
>
>
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From owner-glass Sat Mar  9 20:43:15 1996
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	id m0tvcxC-00017Ma; Sat, 9 Mar 96 20:41 PST
X-Path: iconnect.net!rustyt
From: rustyt@iconnect.net
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: no mail
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 96 22:41 CST
Message-ID: <m0tvcx0-001W3KC@sashimi.wwa.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O

There is a teaching store in Wheeling, IL (Delta Glass) that has a course in 
making such stones.  I noticed a few of them laying on a counter but didn't 
really pay too much attention.  They seemed rather dull and the glass effect 
from the light that I'm used to just wasn't there.  I wonder who put 2 and 2 
together to come up with these.  To me, ceramic inlays look a lot better when it 
comes to such items.  



On Sat, 9 Mar 1996, carole pearson <chicago@pig.net> wrote:
>At , you wrote:
>>Maybe I'm getting all your e-mail (just kidding) It seems to be coming out
>of my ears, but I enjoy it and I'm certainly not complaining. 
>>Who said they were cold down in Florida. Try living in an igloo. 
>>Karin
>
>Hello Karin,
>You bet we're cold down here in Florida. Today the wind chill factor in
>Daytona Beach was 11 (yes, ELEVEN ) degrees. I'm about to wear out my only
>pair of earmuffs on this cold spell, which brings me to my question, with
>thoughts of spring whirling around in my head:
>
>Have any of you worked on any of the garden paving stones? The ones that you
>use glass in the bottom of a plastic form and then pour concrete over? The
>store in Ocala has them but the large forms are $30.00.  Sure seems pricey.
>Would appreciate any feed back from anyone that knows about these. 
>
>Carole Pearson 
>chicago@pig.net
>
>*******************************************************************
>
>People stand in awe of the animal trainer in a cage with a half dozen lions
>and tigers, all that is, except a  school bus driver.
>                                                             W. Hembach
>
>*******************************************************************
>
>
>
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
>
>
----
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From owner-glass Sun Mar 10 04:36:27 1996
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X-Path: alpha.netaccess.on.ca!tchivers
From: "Kathy Chivers" <tchivers@netaccess.on.ca>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject:       Re: stepping stones
Date:          Sun, 10 Mar 1996 07:28:24 +0000
Message-ID: <199603101228.HAA29145@alpha.netaccess.on.ca>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O



Hi Carole
   Kathy here.I have seen the glass stepping stones at my 
supplier.Yes you're right,the plastic molds are  very expensive..
My husband says it would be quite easy to make up a wooden one with 
scrap wood. But how easy would it be to get him to make one!!hehehe
My supplier also was selling last week ,wooden forms that 
he had made but was still selling them for $29.00can. for a hexagon 
form.Still expensive but can be used numerous times if you want a 
garden full.
    I think the stepping stone idea is great.The samples that were made 
up at the supplier were very colorful as are the ones in the book -
Tiffany Gardens.The book has very good instructions and beautiful 
color pictures.You can make hexagons,single and double bricks and 
bench tops.
    Carole,I am taking a stepping stone class on Tues.evening,so if 
you would like,I will let you know all about it.If you have any 
questions anyone,let me know before Tues. and I will ask during the 
seminar.
    Kathy






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From owner-glass Sun Mar 10 09:43:27 1996
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	id m0tvoqR-00013ta; Sun, 10 Mar 96 09:23 PST
X-Path: pig.net!chicago
From: carole pearson <chicago@pig.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: stepping stones
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 1996 12:23:06 -0500
Message-ID: <199603101723.AA03933@pig.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O

At 07:28 AM 3/10/96 +0000, you wrote:
>
>
>Hi Carole
>   Kathy here.I have seen the glass stepping stones at my 
>supplier.................................
>  
>    Carole,I am taking a stepping stone class on Tues.evening,so if 
>you would like,I will let you know all about it.If you have any 
>questions anyone,let me know before Tues. and I will ask during the 
>seminar.
>    Kathy


Hi Kathy,
I have several questions about these stones, not the least of which is why
the forms cost so much money!!! As I understand it they have to cure for at
least three days before they can be taken out of the form. At this rate it
will either cost $$$$$$$$ to be able to make them or I  can settle to make
three of four using just one form. However, I'm curious about how well the
wood forms hold up. Do the sides have to slope at an angle or can they be
straight up & down? It seems that if I would want to color the concrete mix
I would need to be able to do a large number at a time so that I would get
all the same color.  

Also, do you have to grind down the edges of the glass so the edges are not
flat?

And, what kind of glass would do best in these stones? It seems as though
the opaque would probably be best, maybe?

I make wedding cakes as a hobby and I have a whole closet of wilton baking
pans in all different shapes and sizes, mostly about 2" deep, that are no
longer usable to bake in. I would like to know if it would be possible to
make the stones in these. I want to continue to support our local glass shop
but the owner is adamant that they can't be make in anything but the
commercial form. Kathy, I'd love to hear what you think of the stepping
stones after you take that class.  Thanks

Rusty,
I think that anyone that works with stained glass is accustomed (?) (where
is my spell checker when I need it?) to the beauty of the light acting on it
but, IMHO, mosaic work can also be very beautiful and I think I will like
the look of glass instead of ceramic, which to me looks a little dull. This
is, of course, only my opinion. ( Me, the one who has gnomes in my garden,
and a glass reflecting ball.) At least these  stones would be something that
my two Labs can't pick up and move all around the yard, or chew up. 

I bet you have a good selection of glass suppliers in the Chicago area.
That's one of the things I miss most about Chicago. If you can't find it
there you can't find it anywhere!

Carole Pearson in North Central Florida where it is still in the 30's Brrrrrr
chicago@pig,net

****************************************************************************
***********************

People stand in awe of the animal trainer in a cage with half a dozen wild
lions and tigers.....all, that is, but a school bus driver
                                                   W. Hembach

****************************************************************************
************************


****************************************************************************
***********************

People stand in awe of the animal trainer in a cage with half a dozen wild
lions and tigers.....all, that is, but a school bus driver
                                                   W. Hembach

****************************************************************************
************************


----
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From owner-glass Sun Mar 10 10:51:20 1996
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	id m0tvqCW-0000OFa; Sun, 10 Mar 96 10:50 PST
X-Path: tiac.net!glaslady
From: glaslady@tiac.net (glaslady)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: re:stepping stones
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 1996 18:50:27 GMT
Message-ID: <199603101850.SAA04672@prozac.tiac.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O

I've got all 3 plastic forms and use them frequently - I make stones as
house gifts when I go to visit gardening friends.

opalescent glass works best and I've found that if I grond the edges
slightly, I like the finish better.

the plastic forms make for easy removal - and work better than the wooden
forms I'd tried earlier

I'm now working on a benchdesign for my own garden, which will complement
the 12 stones I've made  for myself if flower patterns of plants I have in
my garden.

I'd originally thought of selling the stones, but see no way to recoup the
time and materials unless selling direct. probably the offshore market will
latch onto this as they have lamps, and make it harder of us to compete.I'm
really tired of explaining to potential customers at shows why I can't
compete price wise with 'those tiffany lamps ' made by dale tiffany - of
course, I don't have assembly line factories in taiwan & korea - and when
you  look at my lamps, they look as polished on the inside as they do on the
outside, which most of the offshore models don't....but it's like explaining
to someone who stopped by my stand at a show in Maine and commented that he
really liked the beercan airplanes better than my stained glass kaleidescope
ones and that I'd sell alot more if I made them in beer cans - just look at
the business the guy with the beer cans was doing (he was right - the man
clean up....but I don't want to make stuff out of beer cans.....)

----
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From owner-glass Sun Mar 10 13:24:46 1996
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X-Path: alpha.netaccess.on.ca!tchivers
From: "Kathy Chivers" <tchivers@netaccess.on.ca>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject:       Re: stepping stones
Date:          Sun, 10 Mar 1996 16:24:02 +0000
Message-ID: <199603102124.QAA14132@alpha.netaccess.on.ca>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O


Hi Kathy,
I have several questions about these stones............

 Carole,
   I have your list of questions and will have answers for you on 
Wed.The "Glaslady" had some good thoughts on the stones.
    The stones that were on display at my supplier's were done in 
opalescent glass(an irridesent red was stunning) and the colors were 
so bright and vibrant.
    Let you know about class onWed.
    Kathy
----
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From owner-glass Sun Mar 10 13:48:02 1996
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From: bad@airmail.net (Beckie Decker)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: An introduction
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 1996 15:47:04 -0600 (CST)
Message-ID: <199603102147.PAA32339@server.iadfw.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O

>Do you have a long coat Chihuahua pattern?  I would really be
>interested.
>----
**** All I have is Bloodhound patterns right now, but can draw anything from
a photo.  (I'm still trying to prove that to myself)  If you'll send me a
photo I'll draw a cartoon for you.  If interested, e-mail me and I'll give
you my snail mail address.

Beckie
bad@airmail.net
http://web2.airmail.net/~bad/

             Mama to: Nate the Gentleman Hound
  @-->-->--        Myrtle the Good Dane        --<--<--@
           and the two-leggers, Laura and Sarah

The one thing I know for sure; never shave your legs when you have chill bumps.

----
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From owner-glass Sun Mar 10 18:13:27 1996
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
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	id m0tvx5C-0000m4a; Sun, 10 Mar 96 18:11 PST
X-Path: idirect.com!mrum
From: mrum@idirect.com (mike & carol)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: re:stepping stones
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 1996 21:11:23 -0500
Message-ID: <199603110211.VAA15290@lucid.idirect.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O

>I've got all 3 plastic forms and use them frequently - I make stones as
>house gifts when I go to visit gardening friends.
>opalescent glass works best and I've found that if I grond the edges
>slightly, I like the finish better.
>the plastic forms make for easy removal - and work better than the wooden
>forms I'd tried earlier
>I'm now working on a benchdesign for my own garden, which will complement
>the 12 stones I've made  for myself if flower patterns of plants I have in
>my garden.
>
>I'd originally thought of selling the stones, but see no way to recoup the
>time and materials unless selling direct. probably the offshore market will
>latch onto this as they have lamps, and make it harder of us to compete.I'm
>really tired of explaining to potential customers at shows why I can't
>compete price wise with 'those tiffany lamps ' made by dale tiffany - of
>course, I don't have assembly line factories in taiwan & korea - and when
>you  look at my lamps, they look as polished on the inside as they do on the
>outside, which most of the offshore models don't....but it's like explaining
>to someone who stopped by my stand at a show in Maine and commented that he
>really liked the beercan airplanes better than my stained glass kaleidescope
>ones and that I'd sell alot more if I made them in beer cans - just look at
>the business the guy with the beer cans was doing (he was right - the man
>clean up....but I don't want to make stuff out of beer cans.....)
>
Bravo bravo
hasn't this happened to everyone who has ever participated in a show?
'oh, i could make that . . .'    yes, but will you?  and with my level of
expertise?  move on,  stop crowding the buyers . . .

*******************************************
Mike and Carol Rumak
Mississauga, Ontario
Canada

Visit Carols Stained Glass Gallery at:
http://web.idirect.com/~studio
*******************************************

----
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From owner-glass Sun Mar 10 18:13:31 1996
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X-Path: idirect.com!mrum
From: mrum@idirect.com (mike & carol)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: An introduction
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 1996 21:11:21 -0500
Message-ID: <199603110211.VAA15287@lucid.idirect.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O

>Do you have a long coat Chihuahua pattern?  I would really be
>interested.

Hi, this is Carol
If you are looking for just a head shot, try Randy DeMello's book "Dog'Gone
De Mello".  This book is entirely dogs.
Another thing to try is taking a photograph and trying to put in lines that
would allow glass construction.  

Good luck
*******************************************
Mike and Carol Rumak
Mississauga, Ontario
Canada

Visit Carols Stained Glass Gallery at:
http://web.idirect.com/~studio
*******************************************

----
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From owner-glass Sun Mar 10 19:42:10 1996
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	id m0tvyTl-0000f4a; Sun, 10 Mar 96 19:41 PST
To: rglass-1
X-Path: direct.ca!kmccullo
From: direct.ca!kmccullo
Subject: Re: no mail
Date: Sun Mar 10 19:40:54 1996
Message-ID: <96Mar10.193609-0800pdt.206214-18645+476@orb.direct.ca>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O

I have not seen this type of glass craft at the glass stores up here (in Canada) not even the wholesalers. But, it sounds like it has potential. I would like to know more about the product and it's application.

11 F. is pretty cool for Florida. I guess that means we'll be paying more for our oranges this year.  We had -16 C. this year which is not really that cold. I think Seattle was worse off than us this year as far as the weather goes. 

Karin

PS We don't really live in ogloo's.

>There is a teaching store in Wheeling, IL (Delta Glass) that has a course in 
>making such stones.  I noticed a few of them laying on a counter but didn't 
>really pay too much attention.  They seemed rather dull and the glass effect 
>from the light that I'm used to just wasn't there.  I wonder who put 2 and 2 
>together to come up with these.  To me, ceramic inlays look a lot better when it 
>comes to such items.  
>
>
>
>On Sat, 9 Mar 1996, carole pearson <chicago@pig.net> wrote:
>>At , you wrote:
>>>Maybe I'm getting all your e-mail (just kidding) It seems to be coming out
>>of my ears, but I enjoy it and I'm certainly not complaining. 
>>>Who said they were cold down in Florida. Try living in an igloo. 
>>>Karin
>>
>>Hello Karin,
>>You bet we're cold down here in Florida. Today the wind chill factor in
>>Daytona Beach was 11 (yes, ELEVEN ) degrees. I'm about to wear out my only
>>pair of earmuffs on this cold spell, which brings me to my question, with
>>thoughts of spring whirling around in my head:
>>
>>Have any of you worked on any of the garden paving stones? The ones that you
>>use glass in the bottom of a plastic form and then pour concrete over? The
>>store in Ocala has them but the large forms are $30.00.  Sure seems pricey.
>>Would appreciate any feed back from anyone that knows about these. 
>>
>>Carole Pearson 
>>chicago@pig.net
>>
>>*******************************************************************
>>
>>People stand in awe of the animal trainer in a cage with a half dozen lions
>>and tigers, all that is, except a  school bus driver.
>>                                                             W. Hembach
>>
>>*******************************************************************
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>----
>>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>>
>>
>>
>----
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>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
>

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From owner-glass Sun Mar 10 20:00:07 1996
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	id m0tvyl0-00004na; Sun, 10 Mar 96 19:58 PST
To: rglass-1
X-Path: direct.ca!kmccullo
From: direct.ca!kmccullo
Subject: Re: tape
Date: Sun Mar 10 19:58:45 1996
Message-ID: <96Mar10.195408-0800pdt.206203-18655+563@orb.direct.ca>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O

Hi Donna : You Wrote.
>Hi, everyone! I've be very busy making simple lamps, I would like to 
>try some more complicated ones but the last one I made I had quite a 
>problem with keeping it together while standing it up ready to solder,
>what is the best kind of tape to use? I am using black electrical tape
>now. My other question is what's the best way to put on the skirt, piece
>by piece or in one piece all together?  The books I have give you both ways.
>                                                                   Donna!!! 
>I had a problem putting these lamps together myself, and just didn't find any tape that would work well enough, so I got a square board, found the centre point, then I had small pieces of wood which I nailed at the diameter length of the lamp. ie. if the lamp has 6 sides I would have 6 pieces nailed on my board, all the same distance from the centre point.Then, I would take 2 sections, prop the bottom of the lamp piece against the wood brace and hold the top together with one hand & tack solder, then add your 3rd piece & so on till the pieces are all tack soldered at the top. You can make any adjustments to the top if you need to before you solder in the panels permanently. If your doing Tiffany lamps this is a 2 person job after you have each panel done.

Karin.  
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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>
>

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From owner-glass Mon Mar 11 00:26:11 1996
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X-Path: aol.com!BLFstar
From: BLFstar@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: tip of the month - or whatever
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 03:25:45 -0500
Message-ID: <1996Mar10.222545.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O

Kathy:

Good idea - I've never introduced myself either - let's see some of those
tips!

Also - how about events that are happening - classes, conventions, etc - as
we learn of them - pass on the info.  Barbara
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From owner-glass Mon Mar 11 00:53:04 1996
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From: BLFstar@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: stepping stones
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 03:51:03 -0500
Message-ID: <1996Mar10.22513.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O

I, too, have all three molds - two of each.  They really are great and will
last pratically forever.  I only leave mine in the molds for 36 - 48 hours.
 The book suggests 3 to 5 days, but there seems to be no need if you want to
keep churning them out.  I pour three at a time, so I don't have to mix up
the cement so often.  

If you make your own molds, just be sure to coat them with petroleum jelly to
ensure you can get them out.  (Another reason for not waiting too long to
remove them from the mold).  

Use opalescent or irridized glass.  Cathedral glass would allow the concrete
to show through and add a grey cast to your glass.  The colors are really
quite vibrant and quite attractive.  Don't hesitate to use art glass, as the
cheaper glass will probably not please you.  

The book and addtional patterns are all quite good and easy to follow.  But
don't hesitate to use other patterns you think would be nice.  I've used a
butterfly and a cat pattern - had to be enlarged and a border added, but that
was easy.  Lots of possibilities to customize to your liking.  They're lots
of fun  -  and no lead or solder!  Have fun.  Barbara
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From owner-glass Mon Mar 11 05:10:01 1996
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X-Path: alpha.netaccess.on.ca!tchivers
From: "Kathy Chivers" <tchivers@netaccess.on.ca>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject:       Re: stepping stones in Can.
Date:          Mon, 11 Mar 1996 07:57:17 +0000
Message-ID: <199603111257.HAA13639@alpha.netaccess.on.ca>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O



I have not seen this type of glass craft at the glass stores up here  
(in Canada).........


    Hi,  this is Kathy.I live right outside of Hamilton,Ontario and the 
stepping stones are a big hit at my suppliers.He originally planned 
only 1 seminar but has added more.
     With so much snow and cold,cold,cold, the stepping stones give 
me something to look forward to.
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From owner-glass Mon Mar 11 05:14:47 1996
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X-Path: avery.med.virginia.edu!lbl
From: Laurie Hall <lbl@avery.med.virginia.edu>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: One "nay" vote here
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 08:01:59 -0500
Message-ID: <199603111301.IAA128429@avery.med.Virginia.EDU>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk
Status: O

At 12:16 PM 3/9/96 -0500, Mary wrote:

>My feeling is those who want to make like the TV Greengrocer with his
>"Tip fer th'Day" are welcome to, same for posting CVs. However, I do
>feel strongly that  both should be optional
>As for submitting tips, I've only been at this a few years. The only
>thing I have to contribute is questions, no answers.
>
>I propose that we continue with the freedom to participate only as we
>are moved to, not as some regulation of membership dictates.

I too vote thatr the submission of tips be optional.  I am learning so much
from this list, as a beginner, but would no doubt drop off if pressured into
submitting tips.  Just my 2 cents.  Laurie from Virginia
Laurie Hall	
E-mail: lbl@virginia.edu
 

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From owner-glass Mon Mar 11 08:08:21 1996
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From: Andy Zimmerman <aaaz@tiac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Band Saws
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 10:55:19 +0800
Message-ID: <1996Mar11.185519.0>
References: <<1996Mar10.22513.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I am interested to find out if anyone uses a diamond band saw to cut 
their glass?  If so, what do they think of it.

Andy Zimmerman
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From owner-glass Mon Mar 11 08:12:26 1996
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From: Andy Zimmerman <aaaz@tiac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Diamond Band Saws
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 10:57:45 +0800
Message-ID: <1996Mar11.185745.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I am relatively new to stained glass and I am curious is anyone uses a 
diamond band saw to cut their glass?  If so, what do you think of it?

Andy Zimmerman
----
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From owner-glass Mon Mar 11 08:14:00 1996
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X-Path: gjr
From: gjr@daver.bungi.com (Glenna Rand)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: doggie patterns
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 07:58:15 PST
Message-ID: <m0tw9zQ-0000wBC@daver.bungi.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

[In the message entitled "Re: doggie patterns" on Mar  9,  8:38, "Kathy Chivers" writes:]
>    I also wondered what you would think of sending in helpful 
> tips on a regular basis?Another mailing list I used to belong to ,had 
> everyone send in 1 tip a month.The tips could be in regard to 
> any aspect of working with glass.If we do this, perhaps we could pick 
> a particular day of the week/month.There was a "Mistress Of Guilt" who reminded everyone when the 
> tips were slow in coming. You can't imagine how much can be learned 
> even for the most seasoned glass artist..


Look.

This list is to *DISCUSS GLASS*.  That's all.  If you don't want to
post to the list, ever, *DON'T*.  If you want to post pages of mindless
drivel, you can do that (once).  If you don't like the list, you can
unsubscribe *BY SENDING TO glass-request@bungi.com*.  If you like
the list, then, by all means stay on.

There never were, and never will be restrictions on who can subscribe
to this list.  We will *NEVER* force *ANYONE* to post.  There is no
vote on this - it is just the way it is.

One last bone to pick, then I'll leave everyone alone.  Please, when
quoting other messages, delete the unneeded sections.  This way it
doesn't take forever to get through 1 posting.

Thanks.

-- 
Glenna Rand
gjr@bungi.com
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From owner-glass Mon Mar 11 08:14:30 1996
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From: Andy Zimmerman <aaaz@tiac.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Diamond Band Saws
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 10:59:20 +0800
Message-ID: <1996Mar11.185920.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I am relatively new to stained glass and I am curious is anyone uses a 
diamond band saw to cut their glass?  If so, what do you think of it?

Andy Zimmerman

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From owner-glass Mon Mar 11 08:14:31 1996
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From: "Lisa Anne Rosochacki" <rosochac@pilot.msu.edu>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: stepping stones
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 11:02:34 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <199603111602.LAA47250@pilot04.cl.msu.edu>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk



Hi

There has been some talk about the stepping stones... I thought that I could
add my 2 cents... I teach all of the stepping stone classes at the store that I
work at so i have had some experience with them.

I too am not totally sold on the forms... I think that they are a bit pricy for
what you get.  About two weeks ago I was experimenting with a new for that is
also plastic but not quite as stiff as the Tiffany Garden one, this new one is
also a hexagon, but it costs about half the price of the other one and in my
oppinion it works better.... the stones come out alot easier.  You don't need
to use petrolium jelly on it (not that I did) to take out the stones you just
give it a twist and they pop right out.  Also the corners are a bit sharper and
they yeild a cleaner edge.  I have also used pans...like old cake pans...those
you need to make sure that you "grease" real well.

As far as glass.... I like the opals best... I have found that the Bullseye,
Oceana, Uroboros and Youghiogheny glass make the best stones...the glass has a
neat luster in and of itself.  In fact some of the glass looks better in stones
than it does in a window.  I have had students that wanted to use cathedrals
glass and have been sorry that they didn't spend the money on an opal... also I
have seen the iridescent glass used, and that looks neat too...one student used
an Armstrong wispy amber and white iridescent and put the irisdescent inward
against the cement but the glass was just light enough that you could see a
hint of the iridescent through the glass and it gave the glass depth adn looked
really neat when it was done.

Patterns:  I have been making some of my own and I have used stained glass
patterns as well... I recently made the Moonrose fairie from the Fairie Lights
book...that one turned out ever cool.  A guy that I work with used another
stained glass pattern and made a table top for and antique table, and that
turned out very cool as well.  I try to tell my students that they need to
explore other patterns than what are in the book because otherwise they will
get board doing the same ones over and over, and unfortunately I think that
there is the misconception that the only patterns that can be done are those
that say taht they are for mosaic patio stones.

Also, something else that I do that isn't in the book... I use gravel mix
cement and omit the chicken wire... the gravel in the cement provides the
strength adn I then don't have to have a roll of chicken wire around.  I
haven't had a problem, and the ones that I made last spring are surviving our
winter here in Michigan.

Well that is my 2 cents...
If anyone has any suggestions or questions please let me know... I'm allways
looking for more info to pass on to students.

Lisa R.


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From owner-glass Mon Mar 11 09:54:37 1996
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X-Path: voyager.net!delphigl
From: delphigl@voyager.net (Delphi Stained Glass)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: doggie patterns
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 12:52:05 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <199603111752.MAA08600@vixa.voyager.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi All!

I have a tip I would like to share.  When you are in search of a specific
pattern and aren't able to find one already drawn for stained glass, look
through coloring books.  They cover a wide array of pattern designs and are
inexpensive.

Just a thought!

Stephanie

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From owner-glass Mon Mar 11 09:58:36 1996
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X-Path: voyager.net!delphigl
From: delphigl@voyager.net (Delphi Stained Glass)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Round Robin reminder
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 12:55:56 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <199603111755.MAA08952@vixa.voyager.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I was recently reminded that I have forgotton to post a notice reminding any
and all who are interested in participating our a round robin where we can
share photos of what we create with others.

The deadline for submitting your photos was originally Friday, March 15, but
since it slipped my mind, I am extending this to Monday, March 25.  I have
also recently moved and my address has changed slightly from 310 W. Cherry
St, to 312 W. Cherry.

I am looking forward to sharing with others what it is that we enjoy most
about glass!  Please join in the fun!

Stephanie (SKBraman@aol.com)

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From owner-glass Mon Mar 11 10:04:29 1996
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X-Path: moose.ncia.net!pegasus
From: Paula Tibbetts <pegasus@moose.ncia.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Band Saws
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 13:01:07 -0500
Message-ID: <199603111801.NAA25477@moose.ncia.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

At 10:55 AM 3/11/96 +0800, you wrote:
>I am interested to find out if anyone uses a diamond band saw to cut 
>their glass?  If so, what do they think of it.
>
>Andy Zimmerman
>----
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>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
>Dear Andy:

My husband and I use a diamond band saw to cut glass. We really like it
alot. There have been many times when we are glad that we had it.

Pegasus (in N.H.)

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From owner-glass Mon Mar 11 10:07:14 1996
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X-Path: macnet.com!jhendershott
From: jhendershott@macnet.com (Janie Hendershott)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: stepping stones
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 10:00:21 -0800
Message-ID: <199603111800.KAA28462@jack.macnet.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

What kind of prices are people getting for these stepping stones? Where do
you find the best markets?  

I'm also wondering if you have to be careful not to make the size of the
glass pieces to big to avoid breakage??

Thanks for the help
>
>Hi
>
>There has been some talk about the stepping stones... I thought that I could
>add my 2 cents... 

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From owner-glass Mon Mar 11 10:10:55 1996
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From: Laurie Hall <lbl@avery.med.virginia.edu>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: stepping stones
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 11:41:31 -0500
Message-ID: <199603111641.LAA49784@avery.med.Virginia.EDU>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

At 11:02 AM 3/11/96 -0500, you wrote:
>
>
>Hi
>
>There has been some talk about the stepping stones... I thought that I could
>add my 2 cents... I teach all of the stepping stone classes at the store that I
>work at so i have had some experience with them.

>I too am not totally sold on the forms... I think that they are a bit pricy for
>what you get.  About two weeks ago I was experimenting with a new for that is
>also plastic but not quite as stiff as the Tiffany Garden one, this new one is
>also a hexagon, but it costs about half the price of the other one and in my
>oppinion it works better.... the stones come out alot easier.  

Hi, Lisa, thanks for all the good tips about making stepping stones.  I have
just moved into a new house and will be putting in all new flower beds, and
will plan to incorporate stones into them.  Can you tell me the name of the
manufacturer of the new forms you have been experimenting with?  Also, where
would you go to buy such forms?  Thanks, Laurie in Virginia
Laurie Hall	
E-mail: lbl@virginia.edu
 

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From owner-glass Mon Mar 11 10:42:25 1996
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X-Path: bnr.ca!rstoker
From: "richard (r.) stoker" <rstoker@bnr.ca> 
To: glass@bungi.com 
Subject:  re:Diamond Band Saws 
Date:  Mon, 11 Mar 1996 13:23:00 -0500 
Message-ID: <1996Mar11.8230.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Diamond band saws have their place, I use mine to cut "impossible" cuts 
and to economize when using very expensive or very difficult (e.g. 
Oceana drapery) glass...
Richard Stoker- 


>I am relatively new to stained glass and I am curious is anyone uses a 
>diamond band saw to cut their glass?  If so, what do you think of it?
>
>Andy Zimmerman
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>                                                                
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From owner-glass Mon Mar 11 11:11:14 1996
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X-Path: aol.com!LBettin
From: LBettin@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: stepping stones
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 14:11:09 -0500
Message-ID: <1996Mar11.9119.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi Lisa:  Really enjoyed your suggestions.  What is the source for the forms
you mentioned?  I also have used gravel cement without chicken wire -- with
success.

Thanks to everyone who post here.  It's a fabulous place to share and learn
and everyone is very generous.  Laura
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From owner-glass Mon Mar 11 11:27:31 1996
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From: cooperd@camadm.Camosun.BC.CA
To: "GLASS@BUNGI.COM" <GLASS@BUNGI.COM>
Subject: LAMP BASES
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 11:24:25 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1996Mar11.32425.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi all, about a month ago I asked the group if anyone knew of a place in
B.C Canada that sold wholesale lampbases, someone anwered with an home 
page address with a bunch of them in Vancouver, I somehow misplaced my 
printout and deleted the message if it's still on a directory somewhere or
if that person could send it to me again I would appreciate it greatly.
                                             Thanks Donna!!!
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From owner-glass Mon Mar 11 11:45:51 1996
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From:         HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu
To:           glass@bungi.com
Subject:      TIPS (was Re: One "nay" vote here
Date:         Mon, 11 Mar 96 14:37:55 EST
Message-ID:   <960311.144418.EST.HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu>
References: <<199603111301.IAA128429@avery.med.Virginia.EDU>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Even if you are new to stained glass, you may come up with some neat
method of doing something, or  great idea.  Why not tell us?  You
don't have to wait to have a question.
Here's one...my husband saw a bag of irridescent black glass nuggets
at a hobby store for some ridiculous low price.  He brought them home
and gave them to me. Think of something to do with them, he said.
Here's one idea.  I foiled several and soldered them together in a
straight line.  I used that for the front of a business card holder in
irridescent white.  Looked great, sold quick.
How could we ever make tips mandatory?

--
Dorothy Kalahan, Interlibrary Loan  (860) 679-2940  FAX (860) 679-4046
UCONN Health Center Library, POB 4003, Farmington CT 06034-4003
HCLADM02@UConnVM.uconn.edu
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From owner-glass Mon Mar 11 16:29:26 1996
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X-Path: mail.gardencitynet.co.uk!kris
From: "Kris" <kris@gardencitynet.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Getting drawings into your PC
Summary: Authenticated sender is <kris@mail.gardencitynet.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 00:26:13 +0000
Message-ID: <199603120036.AAA19374@linux.nildram.co.uk>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi All!
          ...and before anyone asks - no I haven't finished the 
template scaling program yet. However it is constantly in my thoughts 
being redesigned, refined and tossed around my colleagues to find the 
holes. I think tips should be unsolicited - but here's my two pen'orth so
I can ask questions in future with a clear conscience.

If you want to get a drawing into your PC - send yourself a fax from 
somewhere. My PC receives faxes with Delrina WinFax Lite which
saves the image in .BMP format.
There's even a little gadget - sold over here as "Avro Pacific 
Scanafax" at UKP30 (US$30?) - which allows you to connect a 
fax machine 'phone plug into your PC modem instead of the 'phone
socket. An instant scanner! The electronics is very simple but I can't
find time for any more "5 minute"  construction jobs just now so I've 
bought one ready to go.

The main glass panels of my commission are due for delivery anyday 
now and the glass artist is alternating between despair and ecstasy. It 
sounds literally like blood, sweat and tears. The  bonus for the job 
is a starter pack for connecting to the Net - so watch out for "North 
Light".
                                                                  time for bed!    Kris
--
email: kris@gardencitynet.co.uk
"Everything in life is transient; including life itself"
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From owner-glass Mon Mar 11 18:07:32 1996
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From: izzy3@ix.netcom.com (Michael Smoucha )
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Band Saws
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 18:06:29 -0800
Message-ID: <199603120206.SAA02532@ix2.ix.netcom.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

You wrote: 
>
>I am interested to find out if anyone uses a diamond band saw to cut 
>their glass?  If so, what do they think of it.
>
It is slow and clumsy. 

ms

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From owner-glass Mon Mar 11 18:13:45 1996
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From: izzy3@ix.netcom.com (Michael Smoucha )
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: re:Diamond Band Saws 
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 18:12:29 -0800
Message-ID: <199603120212.SAA04078@ix16.ix.netcom.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

You wrote: 
>
>Diamond band saws have their place, I use mine to cut "impossible" 
cuts 


The only problem I've encountered is That these "impossible" cuts tend 
to be weak at the "impossible" points. I have found the hard way that 
cutting by hand then hand grozing makes for a much stronger piece even 
on an inside 90 

ms 
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From owner-glass Mon Mar 11 18:22:54 1996
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From: izzy3@ix.netcom.com (Michael Smoucha )
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Getting drawings into your PC
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 18:20:28 -0800
Message-ID: <199603120220.SAA09644@ix10.ix.netcom.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

You wrote: 
>

>If you want to get a drawing into your PC - send yourself a fax from 
>somewhere. My PC receives faxes with Delrina WinFax Lite which
>saves the image in .BMP format.
>There's even a little gadget - sold over here as "Avro Pacific 
>Scanafax" at UKP30 (US$30?) - which allows you to connect a 
>fax machine 'phone plug into your PC modem instead of the 'phone
>socket. An instant scanner!

Only problem with this trick is the resolution on most fax machines is 
100 - 150 dpi. This makes for quite a messy piece of art if you have 
any detail at all. Scanning at your local print shop only cost a few 
dollars and you can get resolutions as high as 2000 dpi. You still need 
to clean up the art but not nearly as bad as the low res.

ms
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From owner-glass Mon Mar 11 18:46:42 1996
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From: mrum@idirect.com (mike & carol)
To: glass@BUNGI.COM
Subject: Re: LAMP BASES
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 21:43:26 -0500
Message-ID: <199603120243.VAA01385@lucid.idirect.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

>Hi all, about a month ago I asked the group if anyone knew of a place in
>B.C Canada that sold wholesale lampbases, someone anwered with an home 
>page address with a bunch of them in Vancouver, I somehow misplaced my 
>printout and deleted the message if it's still on a directory somewhere or
>if that person could send it to me again I would appreciate it greatly.
>                                             Thanks Donna!!!
>----
Donna, found it!

Tiffany Glass Centre
11051 Bridgeport Road
Richmond  V6X 1T3
604 270 4270     fax 604 270 4905   no e-mail address
http://206.12.87.2/tiffany/tiffany.htm

Carol
*******************************************
Mike and Carol Rumak
Mississauga, Ontario
Canada

Visit Carol's stained glass gallery at:
http://web.idirect.com/~studio
*******************************************

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From owner-glass Mon Mar 11 19:04:47 1996
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From: kgreenwell@ccinet.ab.ca (Pat Greenwell)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: LAMP BASES
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 1996 20:00:00 -0700
Message-ID: <9603110300.AA23295@bach.ccinet.ab.ca>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

>Hi all, about a month ago I asked the group if anyone knew of a place in
>B.C Canada that sold wholesale lampbases, someone anwered with an home
>page address with a bunch of them in Vancouver, I somehow misplaced my
>printout and deleted the message if it's still on a directory somewhere or
>if that person could send it to me again I would appreciate it greatly.
>                                             Thanks Donna!!!


Hi Donna:
Try Tiffany's in Richmond, B.C. They sell wholesale and last time I was
there they had a lot of lamp bases.
Kona is another wholesale place-small but have a lot on inventory-in
Burnaby or East Van.
I buy wholesale as well and still like the variety/service I get from The
Glass Place in Pt Claire, Que.Their # is 1-800-363-7855 and their catalogue
is worth sending for.
Pat


kgreenwell@ccinet.ab.ca
Pat Greenwel
5302 57th St.,
Ponoka,Alberta,Canada
T4J 1M4



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From owner-glass Mon Mar 11 19:14:42 1996
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From: rustyt@iconnect.net
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Getting drawings into your PC
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 96 21:13 CST
Message-ID: <m0twKWC-001WPnC@sashimi.wwa.com>
References: <<199603120220.SAA09644@ix10.ix.netcom.com>>
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Precedence: bulk

I purchased a PageReader scanner (the sheets are fed through it like a fax 
machine).  The file sizes are rather large according to the quality you request 
but the results (in black and white on mine) are excellent.  The price was 
around $170.00 but I'm sure that now, six months later, it has gone down in 
price.  I originally bought it to convert a teaching manual I wrote for a SYNON 
class that I teach (but no longer had the document on disk) and it worked out 
great for converting text on paper to text in a file!  It also works great for 
scanning images although (as another obstacle in my 8.5 x 11 problems) it is 
limited to a little over 8.5 x 11 in size.

I sure will be happy when the software Kris is working on is complete!!  :)  Now 
is the time that I wish I was a PC programmer instead of an AS-400 programmer or 
else I'd write it myself!  :)

Rustyt
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From owner-glass Mon Mar 11 21:00:42 1996
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From: "Andrea King" <andreaking@swin.edu.au>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Suppliers
Summary: Authenticated sender is <andreaking@gpo.swin.edu.au>
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 15:48:37 +0000
Message-ID: <199603120448.AA09658@lucy.swin.edu.au>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Swinburne University
Precedence: bulk

Is there anyone out there on line who can help me with wholesale 
suppliers/manufacturers.  We are looking at importing supplies as the 
business is growing so fast we can only benefit from importing 
ourselves.  If anyone can help you can email me direct.  Thanks

Andrea
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From owner-glass Mon Mar 11 21:28:21 1996
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From: "Andrea King" <andreaking@swin.edu.au>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: General Chat
Summary: Authenticated sender is <andreaking@gpo.swin.edu.au>
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 15:44:56 +0000
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Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Swinburne University
Precedence: bulk

Hi all

I have just spent most of my morning reading my 132 email messages that 
were waiting for me.  We here in Aust had a holiday yesterday which 
for me was great as I get a bonus day in my workshop.  I just 
completed a 'King Parrot" (Aust native bird), and I also cut out a platypus
ready for foiling.  I got them from the book "Bush Beauties", so if you get
a chance have a look at that book also "More Bush Beauties".  The Austsralian
animals and flowers in these two books are just wonderful, so lifelike and very
cute.  Of couse I am always working on butterflies and my dried flowers.

The group has been very active over the last 2-3 days which is great.
I have picked up so many hints and love the unselfishness of glass artisians,
they are always willing to offer help or advice.  I have actually gotten myself
half organised and now categorise my email (glass).  I have a loose-leave folder
with an index and headings such as "Grinders", "Soldering Irons", "Tools"  
You would be surprised how often I refer to the information gleaned from this
group.

You may recall some time ago, that I said my main objective was to 
practice precision cutting.  Well my cutting has impoved beyond my 
expectations and all I did was practice, practice, practice.  I now 
feel much more confident buying glass (I used to buy double the 
required amount as most of it would end up in my  'glass only' 
bin!!!!).  My soldering has also improved greatly.

I am very interested in the `stepping stones' being discussed at the moment
and will keep tuned for any hints etc.  Hopefully I will get to try it sometime
this century++++++++++++++!

By the way did anyone see our wonderful new Grand Prix circut here in 
Melbourne?  We also turned on the weather for the race, around 30 
degrees Celcuis, sorry to all you who are freezing but we will get 
our turn in a couple of months.

Bye for now
Andrea
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From owner-glass Tue Mar 12 05:50:02 1996
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From: yeelut@euronet.co.il
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject:       Re: Las Vegas Glass Craft Expo
Summary: Authenticated sender is <yeelut@mail.euronet.co.il>
Date:          Tue, 12 Mar 1996 15:48:08 +0000
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> From:          BLFstar@aol.com
> To:            glass@bungi.com
> Subject:       Re: Las Vegas Glass Craft Expo
> Date:          Mon, 26 Feb 1996 02:12:54 -0500
> Reply-to:      glass@bungi.com

> Roger:
> Always happy to oblige.. and hope to meet you there.  The Las Vegas show is
> Thursday, March 28 through Sunday March 31.  Call Las Vegas Management for
> info at 800 217-4527 or 702 734-0070.  The expo will be at the Cashman Field
> Convention Center with the Showboat Hotel & Casino being the headquarter
> hotel and Golden Nugget the secondary hotel.  The expo itself will include
> many, many classes and workshops, a trade show and glass tour as well as an
> awards presentation.  The program guide is very detailed.  Some of the
> subjects of the classes include: making boxes, stepping stones, Tiffany
> lamps, mosaic wall art, glass painting, designing panels, decorative solder
> techniques, sandblast etching, jewelry wire wrapping, kiln stuff, necklaces,
> lead came techniques, silkscreening, glass carving, mold making, fusing, bead
> making, torch work, marbles, bracelets, slumping.  Then there are the
> business type classes:  photographing your work, merchandising and displaying
> , operating a business for profit, starting a business, recycling glass,
> marketing concepts, mail order business, new directions, pricing, etc,
> creative block clearance, how to buy art glass.  There are some pretty famous
> teachers there too:  Joe Porcelli, Norm Dobbins, Tommy G, Narcissus
> Quagliata, Phil Teefy, Peter McGrain, Dan Fenton, Kay Bain-Weiner, Linda
> Abbott and John Smith, Newy Fagan and a bunch of people from Income
> Opportunities Magazine among others.  Give LVM a call to get the brochure and
> book a hotel quickly.  I understand they're filling up and I had trouble
> getting a flight the day I wanted it.  It's going to be GREAT.  See you
> there, Barbara
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> 
> 
Hi,
I read this post some time ago. I am in the process of trying to 
arrange a trip to N. America. with the hope of being in Las Vegas for 
the last day of the Expo. How does one get tickets and info regarding 
what is up for that day? 
Any help you can give me would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Meir
MEIR ROTFLEISCH                     YE'ELUT COMPUTERS AND SYSTEMS





P.O.B. 39096  TEL AVIV ISRAEL 69125
TEL: 972-3-642-7137
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From owner-glass Tue Mar 12 06:40:05 1996
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X-Path: mail.utexas.edu!kgbryant
From: kgbryant@mail.utexas.edu (Kelly Bryant)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: An introduction
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 08:38:58 -0600
Message-ID: <v01530503ad6ae813924b@[128.83.166.106]>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


  What breeds do you find
>emerging from your glass?
>I just recently sent one of my flesh and blood type dobie pups to your area,
>to Ft. Worth to be exact.  I would be interested in seeing some of what your
>doing.
>

I have been thinking about doing a small circular window of my beagle.  I
found a book with a good pattern, but have not try to do it yet (too many
other projects).  I think I will do it soon though.  I would like to hear
of any other pattern books that might be out there.  Have any of you ever
done a beagle in glass?



===================================================================
Kelly Bryant
Placement Coordinator
Department of Geological Sciences
The University of Texas at Austin

(512)471-4486
(512)471-9425 FAX
kgbryant@mail.utexas.edu
===================================================================


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From owner-glass Tue Mar 12 08:42:59 1996
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X-Path: pilot.msu.edu!rosochac
From: "Lisa Anne Rosochacki" <rosochac@pilot.msu.edu>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Band Saws
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 11:41:12 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <199603121641.LAA22266@pilot06.cl.msu.edu>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk



Band Saws:
IMHO they are unnecessary...if you have to use a bandsaw for a cut then chances
are that the piece will be too weak and it will likely break...therefore it is
in your best interest to change the design so that you don't have to repair it
later.  Also they are costly for the amount of time that you might be using it.
I personally don't have that kind of money and chances are that if I really did
need to use one I could possibly go to a supplier that teaches and pay a
nominal fee to use theirs.
On the other side of the coin, I do know that there are people that can't use a
cutter as well as they used to, for various reasons and they still want to do
glass and the bandsaw allows them to.

My 2 cents,
 Lisa R.

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From owner-glass Tue Mar 12 09:19:41 1996
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From: "Kathy Chivers" <tchivers@netaccess.on.ca>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject:       Re: Beagle Pattern
Date:          Tue, 12 Mar 1996 10:10:39 +0000
Message-ID: <199603121718.MAA21565@alpha.netaccess.on.ca>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

F



>

I have been thinking about doing a small circular window of my beagle.  I
found a book with a good pattern,.....

Hi Kelly,
    Could you please let me know which book it is that has a beagle 
pattern? We bought my husband a beagle in Sept. and would like to 
surprise him with a small window for his birthday next month.
     Thank You,
      Kathy

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From owner-glass Tue Mar 12 09:20:16 1996
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From: "Kathy Chivers" <tchivers@netaccess.on.ca>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject:       Re: Beagle Pattern
Date:          Tue, 12 Mar 1996 10:12:41 +0000
Message-ID: <199603121718.MAA21557@alpha.netaccess.on.ca>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk




>

I have been thinking about doing a small circular window of my beagle.  I
found a book with a good pattern,.....

Hi Kelly,
    Could you please let me know which book it is that has a beagle 
pattern? We bought my husband a beagle in Sept. and would like to 
surprise him with a small window for his birthday next month.
     Thank You,
      Kathy

----
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From owner-glass Tue Mar 12 09:45:34 1996
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From: bad@airmail.net (Beckie Decker)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Band Saws
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 11:43:57 -0600 (CST)
Message-ID: <199603121743.LAA26840@server.iadfw.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

>Band Saws:
>IMHO they are unnecessary...if you have to use a bandsaw for a cut then chances
>are that the piece will be too weak and it will likely break...

Not only that, but in my opinion, the glass looks unnatural.  I did a
double, then triple take over a piece not long ago before I realized some of
the glass was cut on a saw.  My first impression was that it was overlay (is
that the term for a solid sheet of glass that's painted, with lead-like
stuff glued on?  I don't know the process.)   

I have a band saw and used it a lot when I first got it, but like I said, my
glass looked unnatural.  I began using it to make initials for my family,
but didn't see much point even in that once I started picking up little l's
and d's scattered all over the house.  It WAS fun at first, but not 200+
dollars worth of fun.  I'm embarrased to admit mine was $800!  Bought just
before the new sleeker versions came out.  It was a gift.  I'd never spend
that much myself.  

I'm enjoying this list!  A newbie signing off,

Beckie
bad@airmail.net
http://web2.airmail.net/~bad/

             Mama to: Nate the Gentleman Hound
  @-->-->--        Myrtle the Good Dane        --<--<--@
           and the two-leggers, Laura and Sarah

The one thing I know for sure; never shave your legs when you have chill bumps.

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From owner-glass Tue Mar 12 10:16:36 1996
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X-Path: pilot.msu.edu!rosochac
From: "Lisa Anne Rosochacki" <rosochac@pilot.msu.edu>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: stepping stones
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 13:14:25 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <199603121814.NAA50278@pilot14.cl.msu.edu>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk



Hi All

I don't know who is manufacturing the new forms or who is carrying them...the
woman that does all the ordering at work couldn't give me much info on them
either.  They didn't come with any packaging that gave any info.  If you would
like to get one, you can order them from our store.  We do ship items other
than glass out to customers.  There is a shipment of the new forms on it's way
to the store and they sell for $22.95 plus tax and shipping.  Shipping costs
depend on where you live, and we do ship UPS so if you order one it should only
take a day or two for you to get once it has been shipped.  If any one is
interested here is the info:

The Stained Glass Place
4060 29th Street SE
Grand Rapids, MI  49512
ph: 616/942-1182
    800/9822-3292
fax: 616/940-3101

I thought that the price on these new forms was half the price of the other
ones but they are only about 10.oo cheaper, still it's cheaper and I think that
they are easier to use.  Oh and to clearify, these forms are the hexagon
ones....I don't know if they have them in the 8x8 or the 4x8, although those
forms are very easy to use as it is and they range from 15.95 to 19.95 I
believe, at least at our store.

As far as size of the piece of glass to use for the stones...I have never had a
problem with the size...the cement totally supports the glass from the back so
it isn't too likely that you would have an area that wasn't supported enough to
step on.  In the store we thought that that might be a problem so we set our
some square foot pieces of glass and walked on them and they were supported by
the cement floor and they didn't break, and I think that everyone in the store
took a shot at walking on them. But then again i don't think that the idea is
to use really large pieces in your design, mosaics inherently use small pieces.

TTYL
 Lisa R.

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From owner-glass Tue Mar 12 10:39:11 1996
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From: Janie Hendershott <jhendershott@macnet.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: An introduction
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 10:47:49 -0800
Message-ID: <1996Mar12.24749.0>
References: <<v01530503ad6ae813924b@[128.83.166.106]>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Kelly Bryant wrote:
> 
>   What breeds do you find
> >emerging from your glass?
> >I just recently sent one of my flesh and blood type dobie pups to your area,
> >to Ft. Worth to be exact.  I would be interested in seeing some of what your
> >doing.
> >
> 
> I have been thinking about doing a small circular window of my beagle.  I
> found a book with a good pattern, but have not try to do it yet (too many
> other projects).  I think I will do it soon though.  I would like to hear
> of any other pattern books that might be out there.  Have any of you ever
> done a beagle in glass?
> 
> ===================================================================
> Kelly Bryant
> Placement Coordinator
> Department of Geological Sciences
> The University of Texas at Austin
> 
> (512)471-4486
> (512)471-9425 FAX
> kgbryant@mail.utexas.edu


No beagles yet.  So far I've done dobermans, greyhounds, llamas and lots of 
horses.  I use a good photo on a projector to get the main part of the 
pattern and then "tweek" it to work for glass.  I also use generic patterns, 
but sometimes I want it to look "look just like so-and so". Profile pics work 
best, or at least easier.

Janie (Glassdobe)
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From owner-glass Tue Mar 12 10:55:55 1996
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	id m0twZCb-00011wa; Tue, 12 Mar 96 10:53 PST
X-Path: macnet.com!jhendershott
From: Janie Hendershott <jhendershott@macnet.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Band Saws
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 11:03:49 -0800
Message-ID: <1996Mar12.3349.0>
References: <<199603121743.LAA26840@server.iadfw.net>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Beckie Decker wrote:
> 
> >Band Saws:
> >IMHO they are unnecessary...if you have to use a bandsaw for a cut then chances
> >are that the piece will be too weak and it will likely break...

I use mine a lot when I am fusing projects. I can cut out things with it that 
would be impossible with just a cutter and grozier.  I cut out a buffalo in 
one piece, including 4 legs and a tail, to fuse on a panel for a wall 
hanging.  There is no way it could have been done without a saw. So it 
depends on what type of projects you are doing.

Janie Hendershott
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From owner-glass Tue Mar 12 11:24:32 1996
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X-Path: mail.gardencitynet.co.uk!kris
From: "Kris" <kris@gardencitynet.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Getting drawings into your PC
Summary: Authenticated sender is <kris@mail.gardencitynet.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 19:21:33 +0000
Message-ID: <199603121932.TAA26781@linux.nildram.co.uk>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Rustyt said:

> great for converting text on paper to text in a file!  It also works great for 
> scanning images although (as another obstacle in my 8.5 x 11 problems) it is 
> limited to a little over 8.5 x 11 in size.

You've hit on the initial requirement from my glass artist - how to 
take a full scale template and reduce it to a size small enough to fax to 
a client. This is a tricky one - the ideal tool is the educational toy,
Logo Turtle, but they don't seem to be made any more. That's when I 
decided to attack the second requirement of how to get paper source 
material scaled to full working size. The fax on a test run was 
pretty impressive, using the 'fine' setting. In the UK we only seem 
to have Kodak scanning shops to produce copies of photo's. Haven't 
found one yet with a floppy drive to produce a binary file. The 
alternative is to go back to silver technology and then get a photo-cd
produced. For my Web page pictures I'm going to try using Hi-8 video 
capture.

Unfortunately I'm not a full-time PC programmer either, although 
that's my current Job Title! I'm a computer systems trouble-shooter 
& problem-solver - always looking for a way to make a repeated job 
easier.                                                            Kris
--
email: kris@gardencitynet.co.uk
"Everything in life is transient; including life itself"
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From owner-glass Tue Mar 12 17:00:33 1996
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X-Path: ibm.net!Gordon.Newell
From: Gordon.Newell@ibm.net
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Tip of the week!
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 96 11:25:13
Message-ID: <199603130051.AAA18504@smtp-gw01.ny.us.ibm.net>
References: <<m0tw9zQ-0000wBC@daver.bungi.com>>
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In <m0tw9zQ-0000wBC@daver.bungi.com>, on 03/11/96 at 07:58 AM,
   gjr@daver.bungi.com (Glenna Rand) said:


>One last bone to pick, then I'll leave everyone alone.  Please, when
>quoting other messages, delete the unneeded sections.  This way it
>doesn't take forever to get through 1 posting.

Now, that is what I call a good TIP! :)



---------------------------------------------------------- 
Gordon Newell                  Telephone: +61 3 9708 0134
Chalcot Micro Systems          Mobile: 041 111 6636 
                               Fax: +61 3 9221 3958
---------------------------------------------------------


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From owner-glass Tue Mar 12 17:36:15 1996
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X-Path: interserv.com!ebsousa
From: ebsousa@interserv.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: lamp shades
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 17:33:30 -0800
Message-ID: <199603130133.AA09971@relay.interserv.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Donna,
	A suggestion I have for lampshade making is a new soldering iron made by 
Inland. It works sort of like a glue gun, feeding itself from a length of solder 
you insert through the back. This leaves you one hand free to hold things in 
position. I just got mine a couple of weeks ago, it works well for tacking but I 
wouldn't use it for all my seams because you have to keep stopping to reload it.

Donna S.
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From owner-glass Tue Mar 12 20:02:18 1996
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X-Path: sympatico.ca!jan.crawford
From: Janice Crawford <jan.crawford@sympatico.ca>
To: glass@BUNGI.COM
Subject: Re: LAMP BASES
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 22:52:44 -0500
Message-ID: <199603130352.WAA09376@smtp1.sympatico.ca>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

At 09:43 PM 3/11/96 -0500, you wrote:
>>Hi all, about a month ago I asked the group if anyone knew of a place in
>>B.C Canada that sold wholesale lampbases, someone anwered with an home 
>>page address with a bunch of them in Vancouver, I somehow misplaced my 
>>printout and deleted the message if it's still on a directory somewhere or
>>if that person could send it to me again I would appreciate it greatly.
>>                                             Thanks Donna!!!
>>----
>Donna, found it!
>
>Tiffany Glass Centre
>11051 Bridgeport Road
>Richmond  V6X 1T3
>604 270 4270     fax 604 270 4905   no e-mail address
>http://206.12.87.2/tiffany/tiffany.htm
>
>Carol
>*******************************************
>Mike and Carol Rumak
>Mississauga, Ontario
>Canada
>
>Visit Carol's stained glass gallery at:
>http://web.idirect.com/~studio
>*******************************************
Would anyone know of a good wholesale outlet in Toronto, Canada for lamp
bases? They are so expensive in any store I've found.  Any assistance would
be appreciated.  Thanks.

Jan Crawford


>
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>
>

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From owner-glass Wed Mar 13 07:19:35 1996
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X-Path: airmail.net!bad
From: bad@airmail.net (Beckie Decker)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: stained glass suppliers
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 09:16:34 -0600 (CST)
Message-ID: <199603131516.JAA20376@server.iadfw.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I think this was meant for the list.

>From: Liliana Arcavi <lilar@einstein.com.ar>
>To: bad@airmail.net
>Subject: stained glass suppliers
>Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=3Diso-8859-1
>
>hello!
>
>i=B4m a stained glass beginner and would like to know fax numbers and=20
>e-mail addresses of art glass suppliers at new york, washington and=20
>miami.=20
>my cousin is going on business in april and he=B4ll probably accept a=20
>little command on my behalf.
>thank you very much in advance,
>liliana
>
>ps.: sorry for my english!
>
>
>
>

Beckie
bad@airmail.net
http://web2.airmail.net/~bad/

             Mama to: Nate the Gentleman Hound
  @-->-->--        Myrtle the Good Dane        --<--<--@
           and the two-leggers, Laura and Sarah

The one thing I know for sure; never shave your legs when you have chill=
 bumps.

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From owner-glass Wed Mar 13 14:57:49 1996
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X-Path: ebtech.net!proffire
From: proffire@ebtech.net (Doug Scale)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Tip of the week!
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 17:59:06 -0500
Message-ID: <199603132259.RAA12440@sleepy.ebtech.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

>>One last bone to pick, then I'll leave everyone alone.  Please, when
>>quoting other messages, delete the unneeded sections.  This way it
>>doesn't take forever to get through 1 posting.
>
>Now, that is what I call a good TIP! :)
>
>
>
>---------------------------------------------------------- 
>Gordon Newell                  Telephone: +61 3 9708 0134
>Chalcot Micro Systems          Mobile: 041 111 6636 
>                               Fax: +61 3 9221 3958
>---------------------------------------------------------
Good Idea Gord.  It does at times take forever to get through what we have 
already read.   Of course I had to leave this one on here so everyone would 
know what I was agreeing to!!

Doug
>
>----
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>
>

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From owner-glass Wed Mar 13 19:03:49 1996
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	id m0tx3FZ-0000yja; Wed, 13 Mar 96 18:58 PST
X-Path: ccinet.ab.ca!kgreenwell
From: kgreenwell@ccinet.ab.ca (Pat Greenwell)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: New Link
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 19:54:42 -0700
Message-ID: <9603140254.AA17365@bach.ccinet.ab.ca>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I found this URL today and thought I'd pass it on. Seems to be more about
glass sculpting/blowing but you never know...

http://www.epan.com/glassl/glassl.html


kgreenwell@ccinet.ab.ca
Pat Greenwel
5302 57th St.,
Ponoka,Alberta,Canada
T4J 1M4



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From owner-glass Wed Mar 13 20:39:06 1996
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X-Path: ix.netcom.com!izzy3
From: izzy3@ix.netcom.com (Michael Smoucha )
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Getting drawings into your PC
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 20:37:56 -0800
Message-ID: <199603140437.UAA06154@ix2.ix.netcom.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

All the technology for both getting drawings into your pc and producing 
any size rendering of is already in place. Using Autocad 12 and high 
quality scanners and digitizers, importing and printing is easy. Forget 
about using raster based drawing programs, they do not allow enough 
flexibility in size, nor tools for entering a useable drawing.  What is 
the good of getting a piece of art into your pc if you cannot easily 
manipulate the various elements of the work? Quit trying to reinvent 
the wheel.
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From owner-glass Wed Mar 13 20:40:06 1996
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From: izzy3@ix.netcom.com (Michael Smoucha )
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Tip of the week!
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 20:39:04 -0800
Message-ID: <199603140439.UAA06373@ix2.ix.netcom.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

You wrote: 
>
>
>
>>One last bone to pick, then I'll leave everyone alone.  Please, when
>>quoting other messages, delete the unneeded sections.  This way it
>>doesn't take forever to get through 1 posting.
>
>Now, that is what I call a good TIP! :)
>
>I second that
>
>
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From owner-glass Wed Mar 13 22:23:59 1996
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X-Path: aol.com!BLFstar
From: BLFstar@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: TIPS 
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 01:23:18 -0500
Message-ID: <1996Mar13.202318.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

In a message dated 96-03-11 15:36:14 EST, Dorothy Kalahan wrote:

> Looked great, sold quick.

Where do you sell your stuff and how much do the card holders sell for?
 Barbara
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From owner-glass Wed Mar 13 22:40:13 1996
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X-Path: aol.com!BLFstar
From: BLFstar@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Impossible cuts
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 01:39:26 -0500
Message-ID: <1996Mar13.203926.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Okay - I just can't resist any longer - I have to jump in here.   

Before you spend hundreds of dollars on a "slow, clumsy" band saw, give this
a try.  It'll cost you about $30 and even if you decide it's not a worthy
substitute, you've still bought a great and useful tool.  Ringstar, Ringstar,
Ringstar. (that's a chant<g>)

Glastar makes a breaker/runner that just can't be beat.  I'm a relative
newbie in glass and with the Ringstar (imported from Germany) I've been able
to break out deep "c" cuts, "f" cuts and even - yes "s" cuts.  I kid you not.
 I wish I had a piece of this company.  It really is the greatest glass saver
I've run into.  

Over on prodigy, we had a running dialog about this - comparing it to band
saws and the M-80.  It's wonderful.  Give it a try - seriously.  Barbara


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From owner-glass Wed Mar 13 22:49:55 1996
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X-Path: aol.com!BLFstar
From: BLFstar@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: stepping stones
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 01:50:21 -0500
Message-ID: <1996Mar13.205021.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

In a message dated 96-03-12 13:17:06 EST, you write:

>(Lisa Anne Rosochacki)

>The Stained Glass Place

Lisa - Do you work with Vickie Gillespie?  If so, she's on Prodigy and we
talk often.  Tell her BLFstar (Barbara) says hello!  and how come we haven't
seen her here.  If not, well - never mind! <g>  Barbara
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From owner-glass Wed Mar 13 23:05:26 1996
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X-Path: aol.com!BLFstar
From: BLFstar@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Las Vegas Glass Craft Expo
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 02:05:51 -0500
Message-ID: <1996Mar13.21551.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

MEIR ROTFLEISCH 

Glad you're thinking of joining us.  The first thing you should do is call
the 800 number or the regular number if 800's aren't accessible to you.
 Again, they are 800-217-4527 or 702-734-0070.  They also have a fax number
702-734-0636.

Depending upon what YOU mean by the last day, you may be disappointed.
 Technically, the LAST day is Sunday and all that is happening that day is a
6 and one-half hour art glass tour.  The exhibit hall is also open but there
are NO classes that day.  

Saturday the classes included: Tiffany Lamp making; Advanced Lead and
reinforcement techniques; how to buy and use art glass; fusing, slumping and
kilnwork; Merchandising and displaying at craft shows; photograph glass and
create a portfolio; professional designer; kiln formed jewelry; sandblasting.
 And the exhibit hall is open.  Saturday night there are no classes, instead
the Gala party and reception.

Again, please call soon if you want to attend.  The classes and events are no
doubt filling up.  Some of the classes are very small because they are "hands
on".  TTYL Barbara


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From owner-glass Thu Mar 14 05:33:43 1996
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	id m0txD5N-0000T1a; Thu, 14 Mar 96 05:28 PST
X-Path: YaleVM.CIS.Yale.Edu!UCONNVM.UCONN.EDU!HCLADM02
From:         HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu
To:           glass@bungi.com
Subject:      Re: TIPS
Date:         Thu, 14 Mar 96 08:19:21 EST
Message-ID:   <960314.082832.EST.HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu>
References: <<1996Mar13.202318.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I do craft fairs and have tried craft stores.  The stores have not turned
turned out well at all, and craft fairs are variable.  Anyway...I do not
generally make fancy card holders.  I depend more on color selection and
basic shape, so they range anywhere from 5 to 8 pieces, and run in price
from $10 - $15.  I used to get this great clear glass that was like a
sheet of pressed glass (floral or design pressed in) and it worked great
for card holders, but the store that carried it told me the maufacturer
stopped making it--and the store went out of business!  So I don't know
who the manufacturer was.
Here's how I get those pieces to line up straight...I bought a 90 degree
clamp at a hardware store, padded the clamp with duct tape and use it
to hold the glass while I solder.

--
Dorothy Kalahan, Interlibrary Loan  (860) 679-2940  FAX (860) 679-4046
UCONN Health Center Library, POB 4003, Farmington CT 06034-4003
HCLADM02@UConnVM.uconn.edu
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From owner-glass Thu Mar 14 07:26:36 1996
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X-Path: ccinet.ab.ca!kgreenwell
From: kgreenwell@ccinet.ab.ca (Pat Greenwell)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Tip of the week!
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 08:20:55 -0700
Message-ID: <9603141520.AA10688@bach.ccinet.ab.ca>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

>You wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>>One last bone to pick, then I'll leave everyone alone.  Please, when
>>>quoting other messages, delete the unneeded sections.  This way it
>>>doesn't take forever to get through 1 posting.
>>
>>Now, that is what I call a good TIP! :)
>>
>>I second that

**i suggest you send that "TIP" to all newsgroups.


kgreenwell@ccinet.ab.ca
Pat Greenwel
5302 57th St.,
Ponoka,Alberta,Canada
T4J 1M4



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From owner-glass Thu Mar 14 08:03:23 1996
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X-Path: Wittenberg.EDU!cutler
From: cutler@Wittenberg.EDU
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: TIPS
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 10:59:40 EST
Message-ID: <1996Mar14.155940.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

The clamp tip is a GREAT idea. Thanks for the suggestion.  What exactly
doea a "cardholder" look like?  How big? :) 
Cutler@Wittenberg.edu
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From owner-glass Thu Mar 14 10:12:50 1996
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X-Path: tiac.net!glaslady
From: glaslady@tiac.net (glaslady)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: re: stepping stone forms
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 18:08:53 GMT
Message-ID: <199603141808.SAA15978@prozac.tiac.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Improvements catalog (1-800-642-2112) has a wonderful deal on round stepping
stone forms - 12 in diameter

bas relief of flowers or leaves are 14.99 for 4 during a special intro offer
- plain (perfect for SG mosaics) are 17.99 for 4!!!!!!!best deal I've seen
yet - since I'm also a gardener in addition to a glass person, I've ordered
all 3 formats - will let you know  how they work - plant to relicate the bas
relief designs in glass....

judy in northern ma
Judy, in Northern Mass

I've abandoned my search for reality and am just looking for a good fantasy.


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From owner-glass Thu Mar 14 10:13:07 1996
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	id m0txHSs-00011ba; Thu, 14 Mar 96 10:09 PST
X-Path: pilot.msu.edu!rosochac
From: "Lisa Anne Rosochacki" <rosochac@pilot.msu.edu>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: stepping stones
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 13:09:12 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <199603141809.NAA103005@pilot07.cl.msu.edu>
References: <<1996Mar13.205021.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

>
> >The Stained Glass Place
>
> Lisa - Do you work with Vickie Gillespie?  If so, she's on Prodigy and we
> talk often.  Tell her BLFstar (Barbara) says hello!  and how come we haven't
> seen her here.  If not, well - never mind! <g>  Barbara

Yup, I work with her...she is the store manager...I call her my Fearless
Leader....  I should be seeing her this afternoon and I'll tell her that you
said hello.

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From owner-glass Thu Mar 14 12:30:06 1996
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	id m0txJW2-0000QTa; Thu, 14 Mar 96 12:20 PST
X-Path: mail.gardencitynet.co.uk!kris
From: "Kris" <kris@gardencitynet.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Getting drawings into your PC
Summary: Authenticated sender is <kris@mail.gardencitynet.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 20:18:45 +0000
Message-ID: <199603142030.UAA32505@linux.nildram.co.uk>
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Precedence: bulk

> From:          izzy3@ix.netcom.com (Michael Smoucha )
> Quit trying to reinvent 
> the wheel.

The object isn't to try and reinvent the wheel. What you have 
described sounds like the Rolls-Royce or Cadillac version. 
Undoubtedly the best but unaffordable by most glassworkers?
Nothing seems to be available for the Model-T niche as far as I
can see.

My object is to provide a free piece of software as an incidental 
by-product from my own learning curve into graphics and
Windows. There's nothing like a real-world customer requirement
against which to test a design.
                                                            :-)  Kris
--
email: kris@gardencitynet.co.uk
"Everything in life is transient; including life itself"
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From owner-glass Thu Mar 14 16:30:25 1996
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X-Path: alpha.netaccess.on.ca!tchivers
From: "Kathy Chivers" <tchivers@alpha.netaccess.on.ca>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject:       Re: clear floral glass
Date:          Thu, 14 Mar 1996 18:15:33 +0000
Message-ID: <199603142316.SAA20447@alpha.netaccess.on.ca>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk



 I used to get this great clear glass that was like a
sheet of pressed glass (floral or design pressed in) and it worked great
for card holders, but the store that carried it told me the maufacturer
stopped making it--and the store went out of business!  So I don't know
who the manufacturer was.
 
Dorothy,
    Was it a clear textured glass with what looks like daisies 
pressed into it? I purchased some the  other day..
     Let me know if it sounds like the same glass and I will get the 
info for you.I know my supplier just brought it in for a big job he 
is working on.
    Kathy
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From owner-glass Thu Mar 14 17:50:51 1996
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X-Path: teleport.com!weaver51
From: Elaine & Howard Rubin <weaver51@teleport.com>
To: Glass list <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: IT IS HERE........
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 96 17:50:26 -0500
Message-ID: <199603150149.RAA25182@desiree.teleport.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

-- [ From: Elaine & Howard Rubin * EMC.Ver #2.5.02 ] --

Hi all, Howard here, finally there is the beginning of my home page to be
viewed. The lamp is an actual one of mine, rather than a hand-colored image.
I would appreciate any comments and ideas you have to add to my page. I have
many more slides, but not yet scanned.
Thoughts for consideration; consulting, contacts to decorators, galleries,
price list, specific outlets (name), links, and anything that will cause my
page to be active and productive.
 The address is........ http://www.teleport.com/~cbs/howard/hrubin.htm  

Enjoy....H
--
Elaine and Howard, mastering technology one byte at a time!
E-Mail address is...weaver51@teleport.com
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From owner-glass Thu Mar 14 18:17:44 1996
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	id m0txP3l-0000xCa; Thu, 14 Mar 96 18:16 PST
X-Path: gjr
From: gjr@daver.bungi.com (Glenna Rand)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: IT IS HERE........
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 18:15:57 PST
Message-ID: <m0txP3e-0000tFC@daver.bungi.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

> Hi all, Howard here, finally there is the beginning of my home page to be
> viewed. The lamp is an actual one of mine, rather than a hand-colored image.
> I would appreciate any comments and ideas you have to add to my page. I have
> many more slides, but not yet scanned.




I looked at your home page...looks great!
How long did it take to do the lamp shown?
Looking foward to seeing more.


-- 
Glenna Rand
gjr@bungi.com
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From owner-glass Thu Mar 14 18:55:07 1996
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	id m0txPcR-0000Xwa; Thu, 14 Mar 96 18:51 PST
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From: IstGlass@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Tip of the week!
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 21:51:47 -0500
Message-ID: <1996Mar14.165147.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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I suggest we stop quoting the post that complained about quoting posts in
replies.  
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From owner-glass Thu Mar 14 19:52:29 1996
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X-Path: swin.edu.au!andreaking
From: "Andrea King" <andreaking@swin.edu.au>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Drawings on PC
Summary: Authenticated sender is <andreaking@gpo.swin.edu.au>
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 1996 14:48:30 +0000
Message-ID: <199603150348.AA18132@lucy.swin.edu.au>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Swinburne University
Precedence: bulk

Hi all,

The discussions about programs on the PC are extremely interesting 
and we would all  like something USER-FRIENDLY to assist us in our 
glass work designs.

And believe me, user-friendly is the key word here.  I have been using
computers for many years now and have spent several years
desktop publishing and working with graphics.  It is no simple task 
to use programs such as Autocad or Corel Draw.  The capabilities of 
these programs (and several others) are marvellous but unless you 
can use the program efficiently they can be very frustrating and time 
consuming.  Don't get me wrong, I think these programs are excellent
but I don't think everyone is destined to be a graphic artist. I can 
use these two software programs but only basically and still get 
myself into an awful mess at times.

Anyway, I for one would love to have a program that caters for 
the basic needs of glass design.  So Kris keep on keeping on.

My 2 cents worth.

Bye for now
Andrea

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From owner-glass Thu Mar 14 21:38:29 1996
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From: "Andrea King" <andreaking@swin.edu.au>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Help with contact
Summary: Authenticated sender is <andreaking@gpo.swin.edu.au>
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 1996 16:37:34 +0000
Message-ID: <199603150537.AA00050@lucy.swin.edu.au>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Swinburne University
Precedence: bulk

Hi again,

Anyone out there from Fairfield, California ? or close by?

Thanks
Andrea

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From owner-glass Fri Mar 15 06:03:00 1996
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	id m0txa18-0000vza; Fri, 15 Mar 96 05:58 PST
X-Path: YaleVM.CIS.Yale.Edu!UCONNVM.UCONN.EDU!HCLADM02
From:         HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu
To:           glass@bungi.com
Subject:      Re: clear floral glass
Date:         Fri, 15 Mar 96 08:29:31 EST
Message-ID:   <960315.083043.EST.HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu>
References: <<199603142316.SAA20447@alpha.netaccess.on.ca>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

No, not the glass with daisies, though it is very nice.  It is more of
a pressed glass, with really raised ridges on one side.  thanks anyway.

--
Dorothy Kalahan, Interlibrary Loan  (860) 679-2940  FAX (860) 679-4046
UCONN Health Center Library, POB 4003, Farmington CT 06034-4003
HCLADM02@UConnVM.uconn.edu
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From owner-glass Fri Mar 15 16:50:26 1996
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X-Path: nethawk.com!1091
From: 1091@nethawk.com (Sue Eiszler)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: wolf pattern
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 1996 19:52:24 -0500
Message-ID: <v01530500ad6fc1103f4c@[206.97.200.41]>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Does anyone know of a really good wolf pattern?  Also need a Darth Vader
pattern.  Thanks.

Sue
1091@nethawk.com





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From owner-glass Fri Mar 15 22:39:37 1996
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	id m0txpdI-0000tRa; Fri, 15 Mar 96 22:38 PST
To: rglass-1
X-Path: direct.ca!kmccullo
From: direct.ca!kmccullo
Subject: Re: clear floral glass
Date: Fri Mar 15 22:38:28 1996
Message-ID: <96Mar15.223315-0800pdt.206200-23947+803@orb.direct.ca>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

>Dorothy
The supplier I deal with here in Vancouver carries it. Let me know if your still interested. I'll see what I can do from this end and if it's feasible for the manufacter to let let you know of it closet distributor. Where are you located Dorothy?         
Karin
>
> I used to get this great clear glass that was like a
>sheet of pressed glass (floral or design pressed in) and it worked great
>for card holders, but the store that carried it told me the maufacturer
>stopped making it--and the store went out of business!  So I don't know
>who the manufacturer was.
> 
>Dorothy,
>    Was it a clear textured glass with what looks like daisies 
>pressed into it? I purchased some the  other day..
>     Let me know if it sounds like the same glass and I will get the 
>info for you.I know my supplier just brought it in for a big job he 
>is working on.
>    Kathy
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
>

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From owner-glass Sat Mar 16 07:33:07 1996
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X-Path: bright.net!joyce
From: Joyce Moran <joyce@bright.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: wolf pattern
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 1996 10:24:41 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <199603161524.KAA25257@brutus.bright.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Wildlife of the Nor by Debbie Christ has a howling wolf on the front cover.
It also has a wolf's head inside.  She shows how different backgrounds can
be used with the wolf also.  Hope this helps!
Joyce Moran

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From owner-glass Sat Mar 16 08:26:51 1996
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X-Path: mclink.it!mc8040
From: Paolo Corpetti <mc8040@mclink.it>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: hi,all
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 1996 17:21:34 +0100
Message-ID: <1996Mar16.182134.0>
References: <<3141E407.7CF7@mclink.it>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Vetrarte di P.Corpetti Viale jonio 127- Roma
Precedence: bulk

Ciao
 I'm Paolo from Rome and i'm a new user into art-glass mailing list.
 I'have a stainded glass studios in Rome. I'm looking for some stained 
glass
 makers who use Dalle's glass to make glass panel.
 If you want to visit my home page concerning stained glass, the address 
is
 Vetrarte  http://www.mclink.it/personal/MC8040/english.htm
I'm preparing a stained glass course on internet (free)
if you're interesting please fill up  form on page or mail a message to 
me
 

-- 
Paolo Corpetti e-mail mc8040@mclink.it
1° url http://www.mclink.it/personal/MC8040
2° url http://www.geopages.com/Paris/2741
            L'arte e' negli occhi di chi guarda

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From owner-glass Sat Mar 16 21:40:54 1996
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X-Path: teleport.com!weaver51
From: Elaine & Howard Rubin <weaver51@teleport.com>
To: Rebecca Smith <rwsmith@aristotle.net>
Subject: Re: web page
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 96 21:36:08 -0500
Message-ID: <199603170534.VAA26189@desiree.teleport.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

-- [ From: Elaine & Howard Rubin * EMC.Ver #2.5.02 ] --

By answering Rebecca in this detail, I am taking the liberty to post to the
list...

Hello, Rebecca to answer your questions, the glass is 
Youghiogheny called "Yogo", and it is a waxy translucent glass with some
almost frosty clear areas going to intense colors.
With some practice, and an understanding of shading, it "ain't" to hard.
I usually try to get sheets with overlapping colors, that is some of each
color to be used in each sheet with the predominant color used for each
segment of the shade.
The veining is a filigree, with the Poppy centers (oriental) ALWAYS on the
front of the lamp, and the leaves an option by the artist to go either in
front or behind.
I go behind so as to allow a cleaner look. I also use a less dense glass to
enhance the light transfer through the filigree.
It pays to buy "good" glass (usually a hand-made art glass) with a good
color mix.

Will be glad to answer further questions as they arise....H
-------- REPLY, Original message follows --------

Date: Friday, 15-Mar-96 04:24 PM

From: Rebecca Smith            \ Internet:    (rwsmith@aristotle.net) To:  
Elaine & Howard Rubin    \ Internet:    (weaver51@teleport.com)

Subject: web page

Hi Howard, Beckie Smith here......
Your home page is great. The lamp, in my opinion, is spectacular. I have
never seen such glass in my life. Other than possible mail order I have
access to nothing even close to the quality. Not wanting to sound dumb, but
does the glass that the leaves are made of, have that vaining in it already
or is that effect done with the soldering?. Oh Howard, I wish I had the
words to express how over whelmed I am at your ability and knowledge. I just
pray that someday I can be just half as good as you are.


Rebecca Smith (rwsmith@aristotle.net)


-------- REPLY, End of original message --------


--
UNDER CONSTRUCTION...Check out http://www.teleport.com/~cbs/howard/hrubin.
htm

Elaine and Howard, mastering technology one byte at a time!
E-Mail address is...weaver51@teleport.com

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From owner-glass Sun Mar 17 00:01:26 1996
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X-Path: mail.pe.net!cherub
From: "gary paul mckittrick" <cherub@pe.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Help with contact
Summary: Authenticated sender is <cherub@mail.pe.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 1996 12:00:11 +0000
Message-ID: <199603170800.AAA15688@pe.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Is Temecula, CA near Fairfield?  If it is, then I'm close by:  if 
not, then, hey, at least I tried.  I'm new to the state and since 
I've found the wonders of  stained glass I haven't been exploring the 
countryside!

Bethany


> 
> Anyone out there from Fairfield, California ? or close by?
> 
> Thanks
> Andrea
> 
> ----
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> 
> 
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From owner-glass Sun Mar 17 08:11:08 1996
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X-Path: gjr
From: gjr@daver.bungi.com (Glenna Rand)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Orders with Glass Crafters
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 1996 08:09:20 PST
Message-ID: <m0tyL1I-0000V6C@daver.bungi.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi everyone,

Just a word of caution to anyone who uses Glass Crafters
as a supplier.  I recently bought a book with my visa...
total invoice was 24.70.  I just got my visa statement
and on it was a charge of 84.70 from Glass Crafters.
I have to call them tomorrow (not open Sundays) to find
out exactly what happened.  Sounds suspicious....
Please check your invoices and statements carefully.


-- 
Glenna Rand
gjr@bungi.com
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From owner-glass Sun Mar 17 09:14:03 1996
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X-Path: interserv.com!ebsousa
From: ebsousa@interserv.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Ordering from Glass Crafters
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 1996 09:12:45 -0800
Message-ID: <199603171712.AA13427@relay.interserv.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

	Regarding the message about the problem with ordering from Glass 
Crafters, I have been ordering from them on an occassional basis for about 2 
years and I have never had any problems and usually recieve my order promptly.
	While I can't comment on you over charge problem since I obviously don't 
know the cause, I think it is a good practice to always check your invoices 
carefully with any mail-order company as it is so easy for the person on the 
other end to hit a wrong number while taking your order. Just my two cents 
worth.
	Donna S.
	Hickory Cottage Crafts
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From owner-glass Sun Mar 17 12:30:47 1996
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X-Path: prodigy.com!MPGP79B
From: MPGP79B@prodigy.com (PEGGY M PALM)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: web page
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 1996 15:26:15 EST
Message-ID: <096.03747708.MPGP79B@prodigy.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Howard, your poppy is gorgeous!  Is the background glass neodymium? 
It's a wonderful effect.  Looks like it will be a GREAT home page.  I'm
so glad you decided to go for it.  I knew we would be in for a treat!

You ask for suggestions for additions and links - you may have thought
of these already, but FWIW:

1.  your email address (for those who want more info)
2.  a listing of addresses/phone of galleries where your work can be
seen "in person" 
3.  info about your classes (unless you're already inundated
w/students!)
4.  a link to this mailing list and the usenet newsgroup 
5.  pix of the work mentioned in your bio (hyperlinked?)

It's definitely a keeper on my list --- filed under "motivation and
inspiration" as well as "glass"   :-)     Thanks!      Peggy



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From owner-glass Sun Mar 17 12:31:21 1996
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To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Gatewayed mail message
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 1996 15:30:14 -0500
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unsubscribe
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From owner-glass Sun Mar 17 12:49:42 1996
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From: MPGP79B@prodigy.com (PEGGY M PALM)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Ordering from Glass Crafters
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 1996 15:41:33 EST
Message-ID: <096.03748658.MPGP79B@prodigy.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Glenna writes:

>>   Sounds suspicious.... Please check your invoices and statements
carefully.

Like Donna, I have ordered from Glass Crafters a number of times and
have had prompt, pleasant service without problems.  I have had
problems with other suppliers from time to time, but I'm seldom
suspicious of an intention to defraud, especially based on one
instance.  It's incredibly easy for humans to make common,  garden
variety mistakes, and I hope you get yours taken care of to your
satisfaction very quickly.  

What are you working on?     Peggy


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From owner-glass Sun Mar 17 13:04:47 1996
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From: astickney@ipa.net (Arthur Stickney)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Angel Patterns 
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 1996 14:15:27 -0600
Message-ID: <199603172015.OAA06588@dogbert.ipa.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I've only been on the list a few weeks;observing and gathering tips.
I really enjoy recieving mail from all glass crafters.
If anyone is interested in some really outstanding Angel Patterns; for a
free brochure ;write to Merry -Go-Round Stained Glass
                    3235-B  E. Sunshine St.
Springfield, MO  65804     
                 

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From owner-glass Sun Mar 17 15:14:39 1996
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From: Ken Wood <kwood@dialnet.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Angel Patterns 
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 1996 17:13:32 -0600
Message-ID: <1996Mar17.111332.0>
References: <<199603172015.OAA06588@dogbert.ipa.net>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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Arthur Stickney wrote:
> 
> I've only been on the list a few weeks;observing and gathering tips.
> I really enjoy recieving mail from all glass crafters.
> If anyone is interested in some really outstanding Angel Patterns; for a
> free brochure ;write to Merry -Go-Round Stained Glass
>                     3235-B  E. Sunshine St.
> Springfield, MO  65804

I'll have to agree with that! Jan Patterson is the lady who designs a 
new angel each year and I think they're outstanding. Most of the angels 
are large enough to cover an entire window. Some are posed vertically 
and some horizontally. They're worth checking out.

Ken in Spfld, MO
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From owner-glass Sun Mar 17 15:55:00 1996
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X-Path: aol.com!Ebk10840
From: Ebk10840@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Orders with Glass Crafters
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 1996 18:55:21 -0500
Message-ID: <1996Mar17.135521.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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Just another word about ordering from Glass Crafters- I deal with Glass
Crafters on a
daily basis and have never had any problems with service-they are always
pleasant & 
speedy with their orders-it is unfair to judge them for an obvious numeric
mistake (hitting an 8 instead of a 2) I'm sure they will take care of this
problem right away!

Krista Burkholder 
Glass Craftsman Magazine
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From owner-glass Sun Mar 17 15:58:00 1996
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X-Path: awinc.com!jthomson
From: "Julie M. Thomson" <jthomson@awinc.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Stained Glass Magazines?
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 1996 15:51:58 -0800
Message-ID: <m0tySIw-000A2AC@mail.awinc.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hello all.  I am new to stained glass and am also new to this list.  I
haven't seen any stained glass related magazines at my (one) local glass
store, but was wondering if there is such a creature available.  If there
is, how would I subscribe to it, and what sort of articles are contained
within?  Thanks for any help that anyone could provide.

Oh, yes... I was also wondering if anyone has ever been tested to see if
stained glass soldering effects the level of lead in their blood?  I have my
blood lead tested regularly (because I work at a lead smelter), but don't
know if the soldering has or will have any effect on the level.
=====================================
          Julie M. Thomson
         jthomson@awinc.com
 capg6xmb@ibmmail.com (work address)
=====================================

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From owner-glass Sun Mar 17 16:09:05 1996
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From: Ebk10840@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Stained Glass Magazines?
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 1996 19:07:52 -0500
Message-ID: <1996Mar17.14752.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi! I work for Glass Craftsman Magazine we offer a special subscription for
new online subscribers Visit us at http//www.artglassworld.com or call us at
(215)860-9947. 
Ask for Krista - hope to hear from you
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From owner-glass Sun Mar 17 16:29:48 1996
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X-Path: gjr
From: gjr@daver.bungi.com (Glenna Rand)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Ordering from Glass Crafters
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 1996 16:28:02 PST
Message-ID: <m0tySnr-0000ziC@daver.bungi.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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> What are you working on?     

I just finished a design I made on the computer - similar
to Frank Lloyd  Wright's panels.  Now I'm doing
an southwest suncatcher.



-- 
Glenna Rand
gjr@bungi.com
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From owner-glass Sun Mar 17 16:35:41 1996
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From: gjr@daver.bungi.com (Glenna Rand)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Orders with Glass Crafters
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 1996 16:33:36 PST
Message-ID: <m0tyStF-0000qbC@daver.bungi.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

[In the message entitled "Re: Orders with Glass Crafters" on Mar 17, 18:55, Ebk10840@aol.com writes:]
> Just another word about ordering from Glass Crafters- I deal with Glass
> Crafters on a
> daily basis and have never had any problems with service-they are always
> pleasant & 
> speedy with their orders-

I agree- the service was fine

it is unfair to judge them for an obvious numeric
> mistake (hitting an 8 instead of a 2) I'm sure they will take care of this
> problem right away!

But the invoice reads the correct amount....


-- 
Glenna Rand
gjr@bungi.com
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From owner-glass Sun Mar 17 17:06:07 1996
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X-Path: epix.net!shdybrk
From: shdybrk@epix.net (shadybrook farm)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Stained Glass Magazines?
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 1996 20:07:23 -0500
Message-ID: <v01510100ad7266254fb4@[199.224.90.85]>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hello Julie,

I saw your post and would highly recommend "Glass Patterns Quarterly" It
has many articles and project ideas relating to many aspects of glass
art.All the directions seem to be written very well. You can reach them at:
              Glass Patterns Quarterly
              8300 hidden Valley Road
              P.O. Box 69
              Westport, KY 40077
              502-22-5631

Enjoy!
Karen Zuchowski


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From owner-glass Sun Mar 17 20:32:57 1996
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	id m0tyWay-0000cGa; Sun, 17 Mar 96 20:31 PST
X-Path: aol.com!Glas4me
From: Glas4me@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Tip of the week!
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 1996 23:32:05 -0500
Message-ID: <1996Mar17.18325.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

That is a good tip...but I'm almost embarrased to ask...how do you do it?  I
tried once but it didn't seem to work.  Is it something you can't do through
AOL?  

As for the tips.  I feel that everyone gives tips almost on a daily basis
right now!  If ever you want a tip...ask a question!!  The tips will come in
droves!!!   At least that is what I have found.  I love the group and look
forward to learning much more.  

THANKS EVERYONE!!!
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From owner-glass Mon Mar 18 00:39:11 1996
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From: "gary paul mckittrick" <cherub@pe.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: blodd lead levels
Summary: Authenticated sender is <cherub@mail.pe.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 1996 12:36:27 +0000
Message-ID: <199603180836.AAA04873@pe.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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Dear Julie, 

I, too, am new to stained glass.  The first nkght of my class, our 
instructor Stan Hansen, who has been in the business since the 60's, 
adressed this issue.  Apparently some studies have been done and, the 
findings report that only two people have died of lead poisoning due 
to stained glass.  Both  deaths occured at very old ages and were 
linked to a lack of hand-washing between lead handling and food 
handling.  In other words, wash your hands before you eat and it 
shouldn't be a problem!

Take care,

Bethany
> Oh, yes... I was also wondering if anyone has ever been tested to see if
> stained glass soldering effects the level of lead in their blood?  I have my
> blood lead tested regularly (because I work at a lead smelter), but don't
> know if the soldering has or will have any effect on the level.
> =====================================
>           Julie M. Thomson
>          jthomson@awinc.com
>  capg6xmb@ibmmail.com (work address)
> =====================================
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> 
> 
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From owner-glass Mon Mar 18 03:13:26 1996
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From: glaslady@tiac.net (glaslady)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: blood lead levels
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 10:58:44 GMT
Message-ID: <199603181058.KAA04357@prozac.tiac.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


>I, too, am new to stained glass.  The first nkght of my class, our 
>instructor Stan Hansen, who has been in the business since the 60's, 
>adressed this issue.  Apparently some studies have been done and, the 
>findings report that only two people have died of lead poisoning due 
>to stained glass.  Both  deaths occured at very old ages and were 
>linked to a lack of hand-washing between lead handling and food 
>handling.  In other words, wash your hands before you eat and it 
>shouldn't be a problem!

well, actually, that's not entirely correct. Professional stained glass
addressed this issue is a series a couple of years ago, complete with
dodcumented horror stories. the issue of death is not the big issue,
particularly if you have small children or animals. the issue is brain
damage . children and small animals are particularly succeptible but adults
can also be affected. one of the articles that I pass out to my classes is
about a professional studio in western mass where the problem was discovered
when the children of one of the workers was tested in school & showed
extremely high levels of lead. tested the rest of the employees and the
secretary, who never did any SG work tested highes - more than 5 times
acceptable levels. problems were dust & vapors.

my students are advised never to solder in area where childern or animals
play, kitchens, etc. if they have small apts (I have alot of cllege student
with small apts), I advise to do soldering over bathtup - makes for really
easy cleanup abd most bathroomms here have good ventilation.

I have noticed that many of the oldtimers (those who've been in the business
since the 60's) tend to be more laissez faire in safety attitudes. The
highlight (or lowhight) of this is the guy who had been working with lead
since the 60's up in maine who recently was diagnosed with dementia (he's in
his 50's so it's early for alzheimers related). I worked with him a coupl of
times and one of his favorite tricks when you really need three hands was to
hold the solder in his mouth (duh). suggested that the practice wasn't very
healthy, he told me he'd been doing it for years and it never hurt him...of
course, he would never have a blood test (hated needles) 

judy in nor mass
glaslady@tiac.net

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From owner-glass Mon Mar 18 03:13:42 1996
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From: glaslady@tiac.net (glaslady)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Stained Glass Magazines?
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 10:58:33 GMT
Message-ID: <199603181058.KAA04355@prozac.tiac.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

>how would I subscribe to it, and what sort of articles are contained
>within?  Thanks for any help that anyone could provide.
glass craftsman ;replaced professional stained glass - produced by Joe
Porcelli-Arts & Media , Inc., 28 S State Street, Newtown, PA 18940
 
Glass Patterns Quarterly is also available - good for both novices &
experienced folks.
8300 Hudson Valley Road, POB 69, Westport, KY 40077


>Oh, yes... I was also wondering if anyone has ever been tested to see if
>stained glass soldering effects the level of lead in their blood? 

am tested every 6 months under coverage from my HMO

> I have my
>blood lead tested regularly (because I work at a lead smelter), but don't
>know if the soldering has or will have any effect on the level.

depends on how careful you are when handling solder. I use respirator when
doing heavy soldering - am careful about washing up after working. wet mop
the studio floor every time I solder

In addition, I have septic system so am REALLY careful about not dumping
liquids down drain 

Judy in Nor Mass
glaslady@tiac.net

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From owner-glass Mon Mar 18 05:57:11 1996
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From: RICK KOLBAK <RKOLBAK@stf1.css.edu>
To: Stained Glass Listserve <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Test
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 96 07:54:00 PST
Message-ID: <314D8754@mailgate.css.edu>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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Hmmmm.......

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Rick Kolbak                                       RKolbak@stf1.css.edu
1119 East 10th Street
Duluth, MN  55805
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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From owner-glass Mon Mar 18 06:07:12 1996
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X-Path: voyager.net!delphigl
From: delphigl@voyager.net (Delphi Stained Glass)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: blodd lead levels
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 09:01:28 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <199603181401.JAA09510@vixa.voyager.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


Hi Julie,

When asked about lead, there are many precautions that you can take.  First
and foremost, if you live with others including spouse, children, and pets,
remember that their welfare is at stake too and be considerate.  Don't do
your glass work in a common area especially not in the kitchen or dining
area, and always make sure that you clean up really well including mopping
and remember to shower and change your clothes after soldering as anything
that ends up on you may end up on others.

It's important early on to develop some good working habits.  Don't eat,
drink, or smoke when you are working on glass -- this is important during
all of the stages because of glass debris, solder, and the many hazardous
chemicals that are used.  Clean out your grinder on a regular basis as the
glass dust particles become more airborne when dry.  

Lead is absorbed into the body through soft tissues, so take some
precautions.  While soldering, make sure you cover any cuts on your hands
with bandaids.  Don't scratch or rub your face at all, especially around
your eyes, nose or mouth.  Since your hands are most in contact with solder
and flux, use a pumice based soap when you wash up your hands.  This will
help better clean off your hands.

When you are soldering, do so in a well ventilated area.  If at all
possible, use a fan to blow the soldering fumes away from you. Remember,
that the flux fumes are just as hazardous, so flux sparingly.  Wearing a
respirator does help, but if you don't, one way to determine if your
ventilation needs to be improved is it to taste your upper lip after
soldering for a bit.  If there is a metallic taste, you *need* to ventilate
better.  I have heard from some people that they have rigged up a vent
system using a standard over-the-stove fan, to help draw fumes up and away
from their work area.

These are just a few general ideas, but stained glass can be a lot more
enjoyable when you develop good safety habits!  IMHO

Stephanie

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From owner-glass Mon Mar 18 06:48:36 1996
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From: Steve Abbe <ABBES@vkm.com>
To: glass%bungi.com%internet@vkm.com
Subject: Re: blood lead levels
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 13:40:00 +0000
Message-ID: <01I2H7XAK45Y001OY7@mr.vkm.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


hello,

I have a small corner of our basement set aside for glass work.  I admittedly
have poor ventilation down there.  I was wondering if one of the fume traps
on the market would handle the vapors etc. Does anyone have an opinion on those
products?

Any opinions are welcome.

Steve 
abbes@vkm.com

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From owner-glass Mon Mar 18 07:24:35 1996
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X-Path: ccinet.ab.ca!kgreenwell
From: kgreenwell@ccinet.ab.ca (Pat Greenwell)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: LEAD & SAFETY
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 08:19:51 -0700
Message-ID: <9603181519.AA09833@bach.ccinet.ab.ca>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi All:
A few years ago, Stained Glass News ran a column written by Dr. Ed
Weisbart, a medical doctor and stained glass enthusiast. His columns
covered all aspects of lead lead toxicity and other hazards from flux,
fumes, etc.
The ones dealing with blood tests were published in issue #15 and #16.A
column in # 12 dealt with concerns during pregnancy.
Address for Stained Glass News:
22345 28th St SE
Grand Rapids, MI 49508

Pat


kgreenwell@ccinet.ab.ca
Pat Greenwel
5302 57th St.,
Ponoka,Alberta,Canada
T4J 1M4



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From owner-glass Mon Mar 18 07:37:13 1996
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From: nq9230200-Tynan <tynan@ixcim.att.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: blood lead levels
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 96 09:26:06 CST
Message-ID: <9603181526.AA13768@ixcim.att.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


Steve,

I use the smaller fume trap currently on the market.  I'm at work and off
the top of my head I cannot recall the brand name, although it was mentioned
in an earlier posting which, of course, I didn't save from this morning...
It was about $55.

My experience has shown that I need to place the trap quite close to the
area I'm working on and then it draws the fumes away quite well.  It is
expecially nice when I'm cleaning my solder tip or soldering zinc came...
both of those smells are especially noxious to me.

One word of caution- if the placement of the trap is TOO close to my work,
the intake draw cools the area and then causes soldering problems.

It's kinda noisy also.  I don't know if all fume traps are or not.

The larger fume trap which I believe is made by Inland costs about $150
but the literature says it draws fumes from approx 12 feet away.  I opted
for the cheaper one since I was buying it on top of all my tools in the
beginning.   Hopefully there is someone on the list that has this and can
comment on it.

Tara
tynan@ixcim.att.com 
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From owner-glass Mon Mar 18 07:38:27 1996
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From: matmbc90@ix.netcom.com (Matthew J. McDonnell, Jr.)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: blood lead levels
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 07:36:05 -0800
Message-ID: <199603181536.HAA16771@ix8.ix.netcom.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Have you tried the new Inland Fume Trap?  Also try wearing verry thin 
rubber surgical gloves when soldering, you loose absolutely no 
dexterirty and it's just one extra safety step that can be very useful.

Terry
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From owner-glass Mon Mar 18 08:01:10 1996
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From: Alan Warren <warren>
To: 'Glass' <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Door Window
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 09:58:17 -0600
Message-ID: <1996Mar18.35817.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I am making a standard diamond shape door window for my parents. The =
daylight opening is 7-1/8 by 7-1/8. The original glass piece measures =
8x8. The trim is routered for an 8x8 3/32 window glass.

My question:  has anyone done a panel for this type of door window? How =
should I design the panel; should I just do a 7-1/8 panel and mount it =
in the daylight opening or make a complete 8x8 panel (I'll have to route =
the trim if I do this). What about having a 7/16 border of 3/32 window =
pane around the 1/8 stained glass part of the panel?

Thanks
Alan Warren
A totaly addicted stained glass rookie
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From owner-glass Mon Mar 18 08:10:57 1996
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X-Path: gjr
From: gjr@daver.bungi.com (Glenna Rand)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Glass Crafters
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 08:08:58 PST
Message-ID: <m0tyhUS-0000lQC@daver.bungi.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi Everyone,

Just a follow-up to the post on Glass Crafters.  I spoke
with them this am and they could not give me a reason
as to why my credit card was charged $60.00 more but are
reversing it without a problem.  They thanked me for
bringing it to their attention and apologized for
the mistake.  Just thought I'd let you all know.
I do plan on ordering from them again, but I will
be definately checking my invoices alot more
carefully.


-- 
Glenna Rand
gjr@bungi.com
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From owner-glass Mon Mar 18 14:04:46 1996
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X-Path: swin.edu.au!andreaking
From: "Andrea King" <andreaking@swin.edu.au>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: stepping stones
Summary: Authenticated sender is <andreaking@gpo.swin.edu.au>
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 09:02:27 +0000
Message-ID: <199603182202.AA20156@lucy.swin.edu.au>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Swinburne University
Precedence: bulk

Kathy,

>I am taking a stepping stone class on Tues.evening

Well how did the class go?  I'd love to hear your views and any hints 
you got.

Andrea

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From owner-glass Mon Mar 18 15:42:35 1996
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X-Path: sympatico.ca!jan.crawford
From: Janice Crawford <jan.crawford@sympatico.ca>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Orders with Glass Crafters
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 18:32:05 -0500
Message-ID: <199603182332.SAA28015@smtp1.sympatico.ca>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

At 06:55 PM 3/17/96 -0500, you wrote:
>Just another word about ordering from Glass Crafters- I deal with Glass
>Crafters on a
>daily basis and have never had any problems with service-they are always
>pleasant & 
>speedy with their orders-it is unfair to judge them for an obvious numeric
>mistake (hitting an 8 instead of a 2) I'm sure they will take care of this
>problem right away!
>
>Krista Burkholder 
>Glass Craftsman Magazine

I have read many of the messages pertaining to Glass Crafters.  Could
someone please tell me where they are and if they have a home page.  I would
also like their phone number and 800 number if they have one (for dialing
from Canada) in order to order a catalogue.

Thanks for your help.

Jan Crawford

>----
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>
>

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From owner-glass Mon Mar 18 16:16:03 1996
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From: Gary Karlin <phrog@inetdirect.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: stepping stones
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 19:20:32 -0500
Message-ID: <9603190020.AA21749@corb>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

At 09:02 AM 3/19/96 +0000, you wrote:
>Kathy,
>
>>I am taking a stepping stone class on Tues.evening
>
>Well how did the class go?  I'd love to hear your views and any hints 
>you got.
>
>Andrea
>

I too am interested in this process...could you outline the basic steps?

Thanks,   Gary    (aka PHROG)

>----
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>

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From owner-glass Mon Mar 18 16:46:21 1996
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X-Path: mail.deltanet.com!wldsculp
From: wldsculp@mail.deltanet.com (KIM&SUSAN)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Web page listing
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 96 16:41:44 -0800
Message-ID: <v01530500ad73199d999f@[199.171.191.208]>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi All,
I've been enjoying your postings and would like you all to stop by our
Glass Site at:http://www.billboards.com/billboards/flybynet/lookingglass.html
Anyone with a related page drop us an url for a free listing.
We design web sites and have a few pages with page tools,etc.
There is also a site with great Sand-carved glass
at:http://www.billboards.com/billboards/flybynet/sans/sou.html
Drop by and send us your comments.
Highest Regards,
K & S

...fly-by-net...Marketing
wldsculp@deltanet.com
http://www.billboards.com/billboards/flybynet/fbn1.html


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From owner-glass Mon Mar 18 17:43:48 1996
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From: "James Bartley Brauer" <jbbrauer@eos.ncsu.edu>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Grinder solutions?
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 20:41:40 -0500
Message-ID: <9603182041.ZM10433@eos.ncsu.edu>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Does anyone know of a grinder head that will work with Dremmel tool or a
router?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

James Brauer
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From owner-glass Mon Mar 18 19:34:50 1996
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From: izzy3@ix.netcom.com (Michael Smoucha )
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Grinder solutions?
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 19:33:43 -0800
Message-ID: <199603190333.TAA18422@ix10.ix.netcom.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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You wrote: 
>
>Does anyone know of a grinder head that will work with Dremmel tool or 
a
>router?


The problem is in getting water onto the head. This is required to cool 
the glass and the head when doing any work. What did you want to mount 
a grinder on a dremmel for anyway??

ms

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From owner-glass Mon Mar 18 21:54:24 1996
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From: "Joseph D. Noble" <drno@mbay.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Help with contact
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 21:49:44 -0800
Message-ID: <199603190549.VAA12554@otter.mbay.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

At 04:37 PM 3/15/96 +0000, you wrote:
>Hi again,
>
>Anyone out there from Fairfield, California ? or close by?
>
>Thanks
>Andrea
>
 
Well, I am from Monterey, CA.  Not really sure where Fairfield is
so I guess it is probably not very close, but Hi anyway Andrea.

David
DR NO
Monterey, CA

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From owner-glass Tue Mar 19 05:34:30 1996
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From: nq9230200-Tynan <tynan@ixcim.att.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Orders with Glass Crafters
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 96 07:31:43 CST
Message-ID: <9603191331.AA24725@ixcim.att.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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Jan,

Glass Crafters URL is:

http://www.craftweb.com/org/glascrafts/glascraf.shtml


Tara
tynan@ixcim.att.com
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From owner-glass Tue Mar 19 07:19:56 1996
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From: leegates@ix.netcom.com (Lee Gates )
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Gatewayed mail message
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 07:18:05 -0800
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unsubscribe glass leegates@ix.netcom.com
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From owner-glass Tue Mar 19 13:14:03 1996
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From: "Andrea King" <andreaking@swin.edu.au>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Help with contact
Summary: Authenticated sender is <andreaking@gpo.swin.edu.au>
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 08:12:04 +0000
Message-ID: <199603192111.AA29983@lucy.swin.edu.au>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Swinburne University
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> Well, I am from Monterey, CA.  Not really sure where Fairfield is so
> I guess it is probably not very close, but Hi anyway Andrea.

Hi David,

I'm from Melbourne Australia and I was looking for someone near 
Fairfield  who could get a fax no. and/or email address for the
Marcel Schurman Company, and email it to me.  It would save me big $ if I 
could get that info.   I know I would do the same for anyone wanting
contact here in Melbourne, it would only mean a simple phone call. 

Anyway thanks for saying hi. What sorts of things are you into with 
stained glass?  There are so many talented people in this group.  I 
get so much information and helpful advice, its marvellous.  

Talk again later
Andrea 
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From owner-glass Tue Mar 19 13:35:36 1996
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X-Path: pilot.msu.edu!rosochac
From: "Lisa Anne Rosochacki" <rosochac@pilot.msu.edu>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: LEAD & SAFETY
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 16:33:38 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <199603192133.QAA181282@pilot01.cl.msu.edu>
References: <<9603181519.AA09833@bach.ccinet.ab.ca>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

>
> Hi All:
> A few years ago, Stained Glass News ran a column written by Dr. Ed
> Weisbart, a medical doctor and stained glass enthusiast. His columns
> covered all aspects of lead lead toxicity and other hazards from flux,
> fumes, etc.
> The ones dealing with blood tests were published in issue #15 and #16.A
> column in # 12 dealt with concerns during pregnancy.
> Address for Stained Glass News:
> 22345 28th St SE
> Grand Rapids, MI 49508

There is an address correction here... the NEW address for the Stained Glass
News is:
  Stained Glass News
  4060 29th Street SE
  Grand Rapids, MI 49512

In case anyone wants to inquire about back issues ect....

Lisa R.

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From owner-glass Tue Mar 19 15:12:43 1996
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From: Pristine <Pristine@gr.cns.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: LEAD & SAFETY
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 19:13:10 -0800
Message-ID: <1996Mar19.111310.0>
References: <<199603192133.QAA181282@pilot01.cl.msu.edu>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Pristine Glass Co.
Precedence: bulk

Lisa Anne Rosochacki wrote:
... <snip> ...
> There is an address correction here... the NEW address for the Stained Glass
> In case anyone wants to inquire about back issues ect....
> 
> Lisa R.

BTW: Stained Glass News is also emailable at "SGNinfo@aol.com"

    * mickey mackenzie for Pristine Glass Co.
    * <mickey> pristine@gr.cns.net * http://www.cns.net/pristine
    also
    * mickey@grfn.org * http://www.grfn.org/~mickey
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From owner-glass Tue Mar 19 18:32:30 1996
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To: rglass-1
X-Path: direct.ca!kmccullo
From: direct.ca!kmccullo
Subject: Re: blood lead levels
Date: Tue Mar 19 18:30:17 1996
Message-ID: <96Mar19.182051-0800pdt.206428-324+39@orb.direct.ca>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I think it only is common sense that you should wash your hands before
handling food or touching other body parts when working with lead, or
anything else for that matter. But of course there are those who are not
masters of the obvious, and need to be reminded. Keep in mind that the
stained glass teacher also has a responsibility to teach you good safety
habits early in your lessons. There could be a legal exposure here if he
didn't advise you of proper handling of a product.      

        >I, too, am new to stained glass.  The first nkght of my class, our 
>>instructor Stan Hansen, who has been in the business since the 60's, 
>>adressed this issue.  Apparently some studies have been done and, the 
>>findings report that only two people have died of lead poisoning due 
>>to stained glass.  Both  deaths occured at very old ages and were 
>>linked to a lack of hand-washing between lead handling and food 
>>handling.  In other words, wash your hands before you eat and it 
>>shouldn't be a problem!
>
>well, actually, that's not entirely correct. Professional stained glass
>addressed this issue is a series a couple of years ago, complete with
>dodcumented horror stories. the issue of death is not the big issue,
>particularly if you have small children or animals. the issue is brain
>damage . children and small animals are particularly succeptible but adults
>can also be affected. one of the articles that I pass out to my classes is
>about a professional studio in western mass where the problem was discovered
>when the children of one of the workers was tested in school & showed
>extremely high levels of lead. tested the rest of the employees and the
>secretary, who never did any SG work tested highes - more than 5 times
>acceptable levels. problems were dust & vapors.
>
>my students are advised never to solder in area where childern or animals
>play, kitchens, etc. if they have small apts (I have alot of cllege student
>with small apts), I advise to do soldering over bathtup - makes for really
>easy cleanup abd most bathroomms here have good ventilation.
>
>I have noticed that many of the oldtimers (those who've been in the business
>since the 60's) tend to be more laissez faire in safety attitudes. The
>highlight (or lowhight) of this is the guy who had been working with lead
>since the 60's up in maine who recently was diagnosed with dementia (he's in
>his 50's so it's early for alzheimers related). I worked with him a coupl of
>times and one of his favorite tricks when you really need three hands was to
>hold the solder in his mouth (duh). suggested that the practice wasn't very
>healthy, he told me he'd been doing it for years and it never hurt him...of
>course, he would never have a blood test (hated needles) 
>
>judy in nor mass
>glaslady@tiac.net
>
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>
>

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From owner-glass Tue Mar 19 18:34:08 1996
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X-Path: netzone.com!lorley
From: "Lorley L. Oneyear" <lorley@netzone.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: grouting
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 19:23:57 -0700
Message-ID: <199603200223.TAA28112@nz1.netzone.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi gang,  Been stain glassing for a couple of years now and I enjoy making
panels using lead came.  I have been grouting the panels w/ DAP which is so
thick that i have to force the grout in w/ my little red plastic thingee.
It's tiring work.  I have heard about the thinner grout that you push into
the groves w/ a brush. Since I like to use glue chip glass I am wondering
how the thinner grouting cleans up??  Any suggestions? 

Thanks from Gilbert Arizona.. Dispatchers save seconds, and seconds save lives..

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From owner-glass Tue Mar 19 18:45:24 1996
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To: rglass-1
X-Path: direct.ca!kmccullo
From: direct.ca!kmccullo
Subject: Re: Grinder solutions?
Date: Tue Mar 19 18:43:33 1996
Message-ID: <96Mar19.183834-0800pdt.206379-320+40@orb.direct.ca>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

The Dremmel Tool has a grinder piece for glass, and you could use the router
attachment for the Dremmel, but as someone else asked what do you intend to
use the dremmel for as cooling the glass is factor.
>You wrote: 
>>
>>Does anyone know of a grinder head that will work with Dremmel tool or 
>a
>>router?
>
>
>The problem is in getting water onto the head. This is required to cool 
>the glass and the head when doing any work. What did you want to mount 
>a grinder on a dremmel for anyway??
>
>ms
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
>

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From owner-glass Tue Mar 19 19:00:03 1996
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To: rglass-1
X-Path: direct.ca!kmccullo
From: direct.ca!kmccullo
Subject: Re: LAMP BASES
Date: Tue Mar 19 18:58:44 1996
Message-ID: <96Mar19.185200-0800pdt.206354-322+42@orb.direct.ca>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi Donna:
Here is Kona's name & address - Tiffany's has a minimum of $100. purchase
wholesale. 
Kona Stained Glass Ltd.
1391 East 33rd Avenue
Vancouver, B.C. V5V 3B9 
Telephone: 877-1332   Fax: 877-1315

Karin
>>Hi all, about a month ago I asked the group if anyone knew of a place in
>>B.C Canada that sold wholesale lampbases, someone anwered with an home
>>page address with a bunch of them in Vancouver, I somehow misplaced my
>>printout and deleted the message if it's still on a directory somewhere or
>>if that person could send it to me again I would appreciate it greatly.
>>                                             Thanks Donna!!!
>
>
>Hi Donna:
>Try Tiffany's in Richmond, B.C. They sell wholesale and last time I was
>there they had a lot of lamp bases.
>Kona is another wholesale place-small but have a lot on inventory-in
>Burnaby or East Van.
>I buy wholesale as well and still like the variety/service I get from The
>Glass Place in Pt Claire, Que.Their # is 1-800-363-7855 and their catalogue
>is worth sending for.
>Pat
>
>
>kgreenwell@ccinet.ab.ca
>Pat Greenwel
>5302 57th St.,
>Ponoka,Alberta,Canada
>T4J 1M4
>
>
>
>----
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>
>

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From owner-glass Tue Mar 19 23:27:51 1996
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X-Path: aol.com!BLFstar
From: BLFstar@aol.com
To: dscott@lis.ab.ca
Subject: Re: Ringstar, Ringstar, Ringstar
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 02:26:29 -0500
Message-ID: <1996Mar19.212629.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi Don!

I meant to get you interested.  The Ringstar is made or imported (don't know
which) by Glastar, the same people who make grinders and some other great
products.  If you buy from a retailer and they don't carry it, ask them to
order it for you.  If you buy from a wholesaler they should have it in their
catalog.  It should run around $30. retail.

On the other hand, if you can't find someone who carries it, I can get one
and send it to you.  This isn't the business I'm in, but I'm always willing
to help a fellow glasser.  Let me know if I can be of more help.  TTYL
 Barbara

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From owner-glass Tue Mar 19 23:36:39 1996
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From: BLFstar@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Working on?
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 02:35:57 -0500
Message-ID: <1996Mar19.213557.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Glenna (and everyone else):

You mean you only work on ONE project at a time?<g>

Am I the only one who has seven or so projects going at once?  Barbara
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From owner-glass Tue Mar 19 23:39:57 1996
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From: BLFstar@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Tip of the week!
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 02:39:06 -0500
Message-ID: <1996Mar19.21396.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

In a message dated 96-03-17 23:33:32 EST, you write:

>That is a good tip...but I'm almost embarrased to ask...how do you do it?  I
>tried once but it didn't seem to work.  Is it something you can't do through
>AOL?  
>
>

What was the tip you were questioning?  Here's one time when including the
message would have helped...or was that what you wanted to know how to do?
 Barbara
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From owner-glass Tue Mar 19 23:49:36 1996
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From: BLFstar@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: fume trap
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 02:48:49 -0500
Message-ID: <1996Mar19.214849.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I recently got Hakko's fume trap.  I think it's great!  Really sucks up the
fumes.  As an additional precaution, I'm having a bathroom-type exhaust fan
installed over my work surface.  I say bathroom-type because it looks like
that but will clear up to 150 cubic feet per minute, whereas bath fans clear
considerably less than that.  

I also got a base line blood test when I started glass - and have the dr.
check lead levels whenever I get a blood test.  You have to specifically ask
to have the lead level checked.  It's not automatic with the usual blood
screening tests.

Talk about "old" glassers being casual - recently I watched a teacher sucking
her hand which she had just cut - in the middle of a lead class - with lead
clearly visible on her hands.  Another example of do what I say, not what I
do.  Barbara
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From owner-glass Wed Mar 20 02:56:28 1996
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X-Path: tiac.net!glaslady
From: glaslady@tiac.net (glaslady)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: grouting
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 10:43:53 GMT
Message-ID: <199603201043.KAA24846@prozac.tiac.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

>It's tiring work.  I have heard about the thinner grout that you push into
>the groves w/ a brush. Since I like to use glue chip glass I am wondering
>how the thinner grouting cleans up??  Any suggestions? 
>
I'd use contact paper over any textured glass, including glue chip, when
puttying. it keeps the putty out of the texture and makes cleanup a breeze.

the trade off on the thin putty is that it takes a long time to completely
dry and you end up using a lot of whiting to absorb the mositure - a messy
process. when teching (becuase I 'm doing it through an adult ed program and
not in my studio, I use dap, to help with dust control. in my studio I use
the older formula for putty that I mix up and whiting...messier, but I have
the abitilty to control it in the studio.

judy in northern mass

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From owner-glass Wed Mar 20 05:17:47 1996
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From: ebsousa@interserv.com
To: Glass@bungi.com
Subject: No. of projects at a time
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 05:16:12 -0800
Message-ID: <199603201316.AA11688@relay.interserv.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

	Barbara asked how many projects people work on at a time. I generally 
only work on one at a time. I find it a neccessary discipline to force myself to 
finish what I am currently working on before I get excited about my next project 
and run off in another direction. Otherwise I would have 10 partially completed 
projects and never finish anything,also my "studio" is a 5' x 7' mud room I 
don't have room to store several partially completed projects.

	While I am online here I have a question- How many of you out there draw 
and design your own patterns? I generally use bought patterns because my drawing 
 skills are pretty pathetic!!  If you draw your own patterns were you always a 
good drawer or was it a skill you had to learn?  If so How? I'd like to know if 
there is hope for me. I can create patterns using bits and pieces of stock 
patterns that I put together the way I'd like but that feels like cheating.
	Donna S.
	Hickory Cottage Crafts
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From owner-glass Wed Mar 20 06:31:10 1996
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X-Path: mail.utexas.edu!kgbryant
From: kgbryant@mail.utexas.edu (Kelly Bryant)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Working on?
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 08:27:44 -0600
Message-ID: <v01530525ad756cbe8d91@[128.83.166.106]>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


>
>Am I the only one who has seven or so projects going at once?  Barbara

I wish I had room to keep seven or so projects going.  My garage (I mean
studio) is also my husbands music room.  So space is very limited.  I do
keep about 2 to 3 projects going usually.  Sometimes I'll have a couple of
panels and a couple of smaller projects (nightlites, candleholders, etc.),
but that's about all I can handle.  I dream of the day that I can buy a
house and have my own room full of space to work.
Kelly



===================================================================
Kelly Bryant
Placement Coordinator
Department of Geological Sciences
The University of Texas at Austin

(512)471-4486
(512)471-9425 FAX
kgbryant@mail.utexas.edu
===================================================================


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From owner-glass Wed Mar 20 06:42:13 1996
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From: kgbryant@mail.utexas.edu (Kelly Bryant)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: No. of projects at a time
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 08:38:34 -0600
Message-ID: <v01530526ad7573160ae1@[128.83.166.106]>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


>        While I am online here I have a question- How many of you out
>there draw
>and design your own patterns? I generally use bought patterns because my
>drawing
> skills are pretty pathetic!!  If you draw your own patterns were you always a
>good drawer or was it a skill you had to learn?  If so How? I'd like to
>know if
>there is hope for me. I can create patterns using bits and pieces of stock
>patterns that I put together the way I'd like but that feels like cheating.
>        Donna S.
>        Hickory Cottage Crafts
Donna:

I starting working with glass almost a year ago.  My first couple of
projects were store bought.  Then I altered others that I had bought or
seen in some stained glass magazine.  I am now working on my first pattern.
I have never been good at drawing, but I use graph paper and it is turning
out pretty good.

I would suggest that you start out small and maybe alter a pattern you have
or make a suncatcher pattern into a small panel.  I have also found that
using a projector helps.  It just takes some practice.

Good Luck,
Kelly



===================================================================
Kelly Bryant
Placement Coordinator
Department of Geological Sciences
The University of Texas at Austin

(512)471-4486
(512)471-9425 FAX
kgbryant@mail.utexas.edu
===================================================================


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From owner-glass Wed Mar 20 07:16:38 1996
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X-Path: gjr
From: gjr@daver.bungi.com (Glenna Rand)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Working on?
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 07:13:41 PST
Message-ID: <m0tzPa2-0000o2C@daver.bungi.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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[In the message entitled "Re: Working on?" on Mar 20,  2:35, BLFstar@aol.com writes:]
> Glenna (and everyone else):
> 
> You mean you only work on ONE project at a time?<g>
> 
> Am I the only one who has seven or so projects going at once?  Barbara

I usually only work on one at a time.  Even then, I have
trouble getting to my workshop.  I keep busy, being a Mom
and full time gardener and cook and housekeeper.

You really must work around the clock.



-- 
Glenna Rand
gjr@bungi.com
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From owner-glass Wed Mar 20 07:26:06 1996
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From: gjr@daver.bungi.com (Glenna Rand)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: No. of projects at a time
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 07:22:06 PST
Message-ID: <m0tzPiI-0000pYC@daver.bungi.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

> 	While I am online here I have a question- How many of you out there draw 
> and design your own patterns?
I just started making some patterns on the computer.  I use corel.
It can get tricky if you don't remember what cuts are 'possible'.
I have to remind myself as I do the design as to whether or not
a shape is possible to cut.  I prefer more comtemporary and straight
lines designs.


-- 
Glenna Rand
gjr@bungi.com
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From owner-glass Wed Mar 20 07:26:10 1996
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X-Path: YaleVM.CIS.Yale.Edu!UCONNVM.UCONN.EDU!HCLADM02
From:         HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu
To:           glass@bungi.com
Subject:      Drawing designs
Date:         Wed, 20 Mar 96 10:18:30 EST
Message-ID:   <960320.102130.EST.HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu>
References: <<199603201316.AA11688@relay.interserv.com>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I do a lot of my own designs (not all), but I've been drawing as long as
I can remember.  I always tended to do line drawings and pencil sketches,
so I guess I was just predetermined to do stained glass design.  By the
way, I am not that good a drawer and I usually work from a picture to
get the basic outlines.

--
Dorothy Kalahan, Interlibrary Loan  (860) 679-2940  FAX (860) 679-4046
UCONN Health Center Library, POB 4003, Farmington CT 06034-4003
HCLADM02@UConnVM.uconn.edu
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From owner-glass Wed Mar 20 08:11:11 1996
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From: "James Bartley Brauer" <jbbrauer@eos.ncsu.edu>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Grinder solutions?
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 11:08:30 -0500
Message-ID: <9603201108.ZM7132@eos.ncsu.edu>
References: <<199603190333.TAA18422@ix10.ix.netcom.com>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

> >Does anyone know of a grinder head that will work with Dremmel tool or a
> >router?
>
>
> The problem is in getting water onto the head. This is required to cool
> the glass and the head when doing any work. What did you want to mount
> a grinder on a dremmel for anyway??

Perhaps I failed to properly elaborate my intentions.  I own a Dremmel tool
with a router-guide attachment and a Dremmel brand grinding head which is
supposedly suitable for grinding glass.  This tends to be a fairly slow
process.  What I am looking for is a small metal grinder head which is designed
to work with a Dremmel tool.  I have checked the Dremmel catalog and they don't
sell anything like this.  I am looking for product made by someone other than
Dremmel, but compatible with the speed and power of the motor in a Dremmel
tool. I have spent long days standing in puddles of glass powder and water, as
I operated an industrial Prisma glass beveling machine in a furniture-glass
mill. Hence, I am acutely aware of the need to irrigate a grinding head.  I
usually do this with a damp sponge.

I have been told that my Craftsman router lacks the necessary rotational
velocity to properly grind glass.  If anyone knows of a grinder head suitable
for use in a router, I would like to try it anyway.

Thanks,
James Brauer

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From owner-glass Wed Mar 20 08:24:56 1996
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X-Path: teleport.com!weaver51
From: Elaine & Howard Rubin <weaver51@teleport.com>
To: Glass list <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: patterns
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 96 08:22:55 -0500
Message-ID: <199603201623.IAA13013@desiree.teleport.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

-- [ From: Elaine & Howard Rubin * EMC.Ver #2.5.02 ] --

This is Howard...All of my small lamps are my own patterns, and made for jig
cutting of the upper section from a 24" piece of glass. When I set up for
production panel lamps i usually do a few (10) or so. I vary the trim pieces
so as no two are the same, but all cut from the same jig set-up.
As for windows, I usually impose on any of a few artist friends for the
rough art work, and fine tune it for glass compatibility.
I very rarely will have more than one project at a time in the works, and
NEVER interrupt the soldering process for any reason (commissions and money
included).
Enjoy....H
ALSO thanks for the comments on the home page, will  mess around with it
fairly soon.
A 20" dragon fly awaits my touch, so back to it....
--
UNDER CONSTRUCTION...Check out http://www.teleport.com/~cbs/howard/hrubin.
htm

Elaine and Howard, mastering technology one byte at a time!
E-Mail address is...weaver51@teleport.com

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From owner-glass Wed Mar 20 09:02:00 1996
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From: bad@airmail.net (Beckie Decker)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Was # of projects, now drawing tip
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 96 11:00:37 -0600 (CST)
Message-ID: <m0tzRFT-000FCxC@airmail.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

>
>	While I am online here I have a question- How many of you out there draw 
>and design your own patterns? I generally use bought patterns because my
drawing 
> skills are pretty pathetic!!  If you draw your own patterns were you always a 
>good drawer or was it a skill you had to learn?  If so How? I'd like to
know if 
>there is hope for me. I can create patterns using bits and pieces of stock 
>patterns that I put together the way I'd like but that feels like cheating.
>	Donna S.
>	Hickory Cottage Crafts

*** I draw my own patterns...but I cheat.  This will be my tip.  I found it
in a book on creativity.  When you look at an object you don't see the
lines, but the whole.  When you go to draw the object your mind kicks in
with it's own interpretation of what you're seeing (at least mine does) and
the outcome is usually poor....at least mine is. So the trick is to turn the
object upside down, if you can, and fake out your mind.  Your mind won't
recognize the object, and all you'll see is lines and everyone can draw
lines.  Once you get yourself in the habit of drawing just lines, then you
can start drawing right side up again.  It's help me considerably.

With my dog designs I draw from pictures since my subjects don't hold still.
Unfortunately I only draw one size and that's small.  Once I finish a
drawing, I use a copier and blow up the design.  It's usually in many pieces
and taped together by the time it's the right size, but I trace over the the
blow up and wa-la.  

Hope this helped.  Try the upside down thing.  You'll be surprised!

Beckie
bad@airmail.net
http://web2.airmail.net/~bad/

             Mama to: Nate the Gentleman Hound
  @-->-->--        Myrtle the Good Dane        --<--<--@
           and the two-leggers, Laura and Sarah

The one thing I know for sure; never shave your legs when you have chill bumps.

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From owner-glass Wed Mar 20 10:32:42 1996
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From: Delphi Stained Glass <delphigl@voyager.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Grinder solutions?
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 13:28:37 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <199603201828.NAA12990@vixa.voyager.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

At 11:08 AM 3/20/96 -0500, you wrote:
>> >Does anyone know of a grinder head that will work with Dremmel tool or a
>> >router?

James,

It's possible that a diamond coated drill bit manufacturer by Glastar may
fit your Dremmel tool.  What size shank does your Dremmel accept?  I can
check the drill bits that we have.

Stephanie

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From owner-glass Wed Mar 20 10:41:39 1996
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From: RICK KOLBAK <RKOLBAK@stf1.css.edu>
To: Stained Glass Listserve <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Test
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 96 12:39:00 PST
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Hmmmm........................

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Rick Kolbak                                       RKolbak@stf1.css.edu
1119 East 10th Street
Duluth, MN  55805
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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From owner-glass Wed Mar 20 11:07:13 1996
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From:         HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu
To:           glass@bungi.com
Subject:      Re: Working on?
Date:         Wed, 20 Mar 96 14:01:02 EST
Message-ID:   <960320.140456.EST.HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu>
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Precedence: bulk

When I'm doing suncatchers, picture frames, smallish things, I have lots
going at once.  Under my cutting table is a shelf and that shelf is
piled with trays, one item to a tray  (I save the disposable lunch
trays from the cafeteria at work.)  It makes more sense to do 10
suncatchers at once.  So I usually have a pile of those, plus two or
three larger projects, too.  But then, I rarely do huge projects or
lamps.  I'd say 80 pieces is my limit.

--
Dorothy Kalahan, Interlibrary Loan  (860) 679-2940  FAX (860) 679-4046
UCONN Health Center Library, POB 4003, Farmington CT 06034-4003
HCLADM02@UConnVM.uconn.edu
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From owner-glass Wed Mar 20 11:27:32 1996
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From: "Kathy Chivers" <tchivers@alpha.netaccess.on.ca>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject:       Re: stepping stones
Date:          Wed, 20 Mar 1996 14:25:34 +0000
Message-ID: <199603201927.OAA05379@alpha.netaccess.on.ca>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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>Kathy,
>
>>I am taking a stepping stone class on Tues.evening
>
>Well how did the class go?  I'd love to hear your views and any hints 
>you got.
>
>Andrea

I too am interested in this process...could you outline the basic steps?

Thanks,   Gary    (aka PHROG)

Hi Andrea and Gary(and anyone else who hasn't tried stepping stones))
    Yes I can outline the steps (not very briefly) but I will try.Any 
step I accidently leave out ,I hope someone on the list will help me 
out.OK! Here goes!
1.Take your pattern(any pattern is acceptable)and cut out the pieces 
inside the lines.Lead pattern scissors were  mentioned.A space 
of1/8"between pattern pieces is good to allow concrete to flow 
between .Plan to leave a1/4"space around the outside of your pattern 
and the form.
2. Use opaque glass with good surface color as no light will filter 
thru the concrete.Cut as usual but again cut on the inside of your 
line to allow space for concrete.The teachers disagreed on the need 
to grind.One said no but one thought if the glass did not lay flat 
for some reason it could cut someone who dared to walk on it.
3.A form is needed. There are plastic forms on the market or you can 
make wooden ones.Remember to cut  walls with a 71/2 degree 
angle.Coat the area where the bottom and the sides of the mold meet 
with petroleum jelly.This will help release the stone from the mold 
later on.
4.When you have cut and laid out your glass on your pattern,cover the 
glass carefully with a clear sheet of adhesive-backed vinyl to keep 
the glass from moving in the form.Pick up the glass(which is all 
stuck to the vinyl) and place it in the form ,clear vinyl side 
down.If you need to adjust any glass ,now is your last chance..
5.Mix" topping mix"to a creamy thickness and cover  glass with 1/4" 
of mixture.Allow the cement to move between the glass.Remember to 
gently tap the bottom and sides to release air bubbles..
6.Add more topping mix to half fill the form.
7. Use reinforcing wire such as chicken wire or someone suggested old 
wire hangers and lay it on the topping mix careful not to come too 
close to the edges.
8. mix up concrete mix and fill the mold to about 1/2" from the 
top.Again tap sides and bottom for about 5mins to help get rid of 
most of the trapped air.
9. Smooth out the bottom and sop up any extra water that maybe laying 
on the concrete.
10.I read somewhere (perhaps  in theTiffany Garden book) that you 
should leave the stone to harden for approx 3 days.Our instructor 
thought only about 36 hours in the form and 3-5 days out .30 days to 
cure before putting outdoors.
11. Gently turn over the form and gently bang it on the table and if 
all is well, it should pop out.Clean the glass and fill in any little 
spots with a little concrete mixed up to fill air bubbles or 
inperfections.Someone in the seminar suggested coloring the concrete 
with plaster of paris(to give it an off white color) or if doing 
several colored concrete stones be very precise with your 
measurements of concrete and color.
 I hope that answers your questions.Meatloaf pans,muffin pans,round 
cake pans,etc were all suggested forms but Carole,no one was willing 
to comment on the Wilton cake forms."Too risky" was 
the consensus. Too difficult was also mentioned!
    I am not a typist so I will close now so I can still use my fingers 
for the important things in life...like foiling.Jump in everyone to 
fill in any steps I missed!.
 
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From owner-glass Wed Mar 20 11:31:20 1996
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From: Doug Scale <proffire@ebtech.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Was # of projects, now drawing tip
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 14:29:18 -0500
Message-ID: <1996Mar20.92918.0>
References: <<m0tzRFT-000FCxC@airmail.net>>
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Beckie and Donna,

Another trick you can do is photocopy the photograph then blow it up to 
an 8.5" x 11" size page then recopy the photcopy onto a transperancy to make 
an overhead.  Then you can project the overhead onto whatever size pattern 
you want to match your panel requirement.  Of course you will need access to 
an overhead projector but i'm sure you must have friends that are teachers 
that could borrow one or see if you can do this at a local school.

I have only been doing stained glass work for about 1 year but people are 
amazed at how my glass work resembles pictures they have seen.

Hope this helps.

Doug
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From owner-glass Wed Mar 20 13:43:54 1996
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From: Joyce Moran <joyce@bright.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: lamp shades
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 16:31:53 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <199603202131.QAA03002@brutus.bright.net>
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>	A suggestion I have for lampshade making is a new soldering iron made by 
>Inland.  but I 
>wouldn't use it for all my seams because you have to keep stopping to
reload it.
>
>Donna S.
How do you use it for smoothing out the globs?  I end up having my regular
soldering iron heated up and use it to distribute the solder where I want
it.  I felt the tip was at a very odd angle for regular soldering use.  Is
there something I am missing?
Joyce
Joyce Moran

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From owner-glass Wed Mar 20 14:03:46 1996
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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 15:54:09 -0600
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Unsubscribe glass

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From owner-glass Wed Mar 20 14:06:40 1996
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From: gjr@daver.bungi.com (Glenna Rand)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: stepping stones
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 14:05:02 PST
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[In the message entitled "Re: stepping stones" on Mar 20, 14:25, "Kathy Chivers" writes:]

> 5.Mix" topping mix"to a creamy thickness and cover  glass with 1/4" 
> of mixture.Allow the cement to move between the glass.Remember to 
> gently tap the bottom and sides to release air bubbles..

Is the topping mix just regular cement?

Thanks again for sharing this with us.


-- 
Glenna Rand
gjr@bungi.com
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From owner-glass Wed Mar 20 14:14:08 1996
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From: Joyce Moran <joyce@bright.net>
To: glass@BUNGI.COM
Subject: Re: tape
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 16:32:41 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <199603202132.QAA03116@brutus.bright.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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It is my experience that both masking and electrical tape will work if there
is no flux to interfere.  Individual pieces should be washed off and the
flux rubbed off with a clean cloth (not papertowel) until solder is shiney.
My best tip for students is to place the lamp over a metal or glass mixing
bowl when tacking the top and bottom.  That way the even round shape will be
maintained.  When I have a large lamp, I use a large vase underneath the
bowl to raise it up.  Some of my students are impressed with the new Inland
Autofeed Soldering Iron.  They have one hand free to line up the adjoining
pieces, and the other to tack into place.
Joyce Moran

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From owner-glass Wed Mar 20 15:09:37 1996
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From: Joyce Moran <joyce@bright.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: No. of projects at a time
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 16:32:10 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <199603202132.QAA03044@brutus.bright.net>
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I'll try to answer two questions at one time.  I am a studio owner and
retailer, and I ususally work on only one project at a time.  There are
times when I have several commissions lined up and I start the largest one
because it came in first, then a couple smaller ones come in which I can
whip out in a couple hours (and get money coming in!) so I postpone the
larger one.  I also try to finish one before I start another - just because
I still have a Tiffany reproduction lamp in progress from 10 years ago and
another lamp that was painted and fired, but has been sitting at least two
years.  The most I've had going at one time was about 5 and it really ticked
me off that I couldn't complete the first 4 before I started on the 5th.
        The other question about designing my own patterns - well, I do and
I don't.  Very rarely will I design a complete design from scratch.  What I
usually do is pick out the elements that I want to include, such as a
particular border, a bird, flower or butterfly, then I scan (or use the
copier to enlarge or reduce) the design that has that item.  I print it out
and cut away the background.  I place the elements in a pleasing manner, add
the border, then draw in the remaining background.  There are already so
many really nice designs for say a rose, that why should I spend my time
trying to draw another perfect one.  My end product looks like I designed
the whole thing, but I have a lot less time involved.  Just a side note on
this.  I wouldn't go to a craft show and have 50 of an item that I designed
in this manner.  If I were going to mass produce an item it would be one of
my own.  But for one of kind designs that a client may or may not even
chose, I try to cut corners on the time involved.  There are times when I
get really inspired and I do design the pattern from start to finish.
Here's another question for those who do design.  Do you design in the same
style as the patterns you really like from books?  My taste in books is
Victorian with lots of scrolls and flourishes, but when I design, it is
mostly a modern design type.  Why do I do that?
        Joyce Moran
Joyce Moran

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From owner-glass Wed Mar 20 15:46:22 1996
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From: "Andrea King" <andreaking@swin.edu.au>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Stepping Stones
Summary: Authenticated sender is <andreaking@gpo.swin.edu.au>
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 1996 10:43:58 +0000
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Kathy,

Thanks you very much for details of the process.  You did'nt say if 
you enjoyed this process and are you pleased with the results.  

I will now have to find time to make some stepping stones. It sounds 
reasonably simple (famous last words eh!).  
A couple of questions though, "topping mix" is this a prepared product
that one has to buy or can I mix myself, also the concrete mix, is that just
ordinary powdered concrete mixed with water.  

Also I read from Carole here query about the Wilton cake forms, what 
are they?  Are they ceramic or pyrex?

Thanks again for forwarding the details

Andrea
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From owner-glass Wed Mar 20 17:17:15 1996
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From: ScottSGN@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Dr. Ed from SGN #12
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 20:14:24 -0500
Message-ID: <1996Mar20.151424.0>
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Hi, this is Scott from Stained Glass News. I saw a reference on this list
recently to several columns that we ran in SGN a few years ago. They were
written by "Dr. Ed" Weisbart, a board certified family physician practicing
in a teaching hospital in downtown Chicago, who is also a hot and cold
glassworker. The columns dealt with lead safety and I thought all of you
would be interested in reading them.

Here's the column from SGN #12:

"QUESTION: Can I solder while I'm pregnant?

ANSWER: First of all, lead is clearly a potentially dangerous substance that
needs to be treated with the greatest of respect.  Failure to take the proper
precautions poses a health risk to anyone involved in stained glass.
 Pregnant people are indeed especially sensitive to low levels of lead
toxicity.

There.  Now that I've joined the large group of fear-mongers that are trying
to ravage the stained glass industry in the name of personal glory, let me
tell you some facts.

No one has actually studied lead exposure in stained glass hobbyists.  No one
knows if the average hobbyist has the same level of lead in their blood as
the average chemist, the average welder, the average toddler who nibbles on
peeling wall paint, or even the average person who lives in a large polluted
city.  No one knows, no matter what they tell you.

One thing that is well known is that there is no clearly safe level of lead
exposure.  Less is better.  Certainly, obvious elevations of blood lead can
cause medical problems.  It is quite possible, however, to have a lower level
of toxicity, a level that can be determined via testing but which does not
cause any discernible symptoms.  These levels are not to be ignored -
especially in pregnancy.

Rapidly growing fetuses are particularly sensitive to low levels of virtually
any toxic agent.  Pregnancies exposed to increased levels of lead suffer an
increased risk of both miscarriage and low birth weight, and probably have
more congenital malformations.  Clearly this is a situation over which
gambling is a poor idea.

Does this mean that pregnant people should not do stained glass?  An even
broader question quickly comes to mind - since most pregnancies are not even
identified until they have been going on for several weeks, and since the
risk is highest at the beginning of the pregnancy, does this mean that any
woman who even might become pregnant should not do stained glass?

This is not a rhetorical question.  There is a movement within the general
business community to do precisely that - to ban all women with reproductive
potential from having any direct contact with lead.  Some women have actually
been required to undergo sterilization to continue in their occupation.  To
my way of thinking, there is a fairly simple solution to this question when
it concerns stained glass.

First of all, if you've never done glass work before, it's probably not a
good idea to begin to work with lead and solder during a pregnancy.

However, if you have done glasswork for a period of time and have an
established history of safety, there is no good reason to panic.  No one has
any data that shows you to be at increased risk.

Certainly, now is the time to be taking your greatest precautionsx attending
well to the basics of hygiene, using proper ventilation, and following your
blood test.  I submit to you, however, that if you have an established record
of safety with your stained glass work, and if you continue to maintain the
same standards you have been, that you should not have to curtail your work.

Remember, though, this column is offering general advice and you should
discuss the question with your own physician for your particular situation."



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From owner-glass Wed Mar 20 17:17:18 1996
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From: ScottSGN@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Dr. Ed from SGN #15
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 20:14:38 -0500
Message-ID: <1996Mar20.151438.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi, this is Scott from Stained Glass News. I saw a reference on this list
recently to several columns that we ran in SGN a few years ago. They were
written by "Dr. Ed" Weisbart, a board certified family physician practicing
in a teaching hospital in downtown Chicago, who is also a hot and cold
glassworker. The columns dealt with lead safety and I thought all of you
would be interested in reading them.

Here's the column from SGN #15:

"QUESTION: I'm  a nurse and am interested in Dr. Weisbart' s column.  I hope
he will tell us exactly what precautions to take as well as what blood tests
to have done on a regular basis.  For example, are vinyl gloves as protective
as latex?  What kind of masks, etc.?  Thanks so much.  

RESPONSE: My basic purpose and message for writing this column is to support
my contention that stained glass is a safe form for creative expression when
handled with informed common sense.  Paying attention to the following basic
issues of material handling will help you avoid the vast majority of
potential health problems from stained glass work. 

First and foremost, pay attention to good hygiene.   The overwhelming area of
lead risk is from oral ingestion-i.e., putting lead-contaminated  items into
your mouth.  The basic rule of thumb is to not eat, drink, or smoke while
doing stained glass.  The dust and dirt in your work area will undoubtedly
have an increased amount of lead;  setting your sandwich or chips on a
lead-tainted surface will very likely cause you to ingest lead.  Keeping a
soda can next to your soldering area, picking up the can with your dirty
fingers, wiping your mouth with your dirty hand, or any of a  thousand other
imaginable scenarios can lead you to problems. 

According to the lead industry, the paper in an open pack of cigarettes
actually attracts lead.  If you don't have enough reasons to quit smoking,
this is another.
So don't eat, drink, or smoke while doing stained glass.

As a corollary to this, it's not a good idea to do glass work in the same
general vicinity as is used for food handling.  It's entirely too easy for
things to cross contaminate.  Children should not be welcome in your glass
shop unless strictly and constantly supervised.

Industrial hygiene practices require workers to have a change of clothes when
they leave the soldering shop.  I doubt that this is entirely necessary for
hobbyists, but it wouldn't hurt.  (Ideally to be laundered separately.) At a
minimum, wearing an apron is a good idea.

When you're through working for the day, wet-mop or wet-sponge your working
area.  Dry sweeping can stir up as much lead-filled dust as it gets rid of.

Lead will not be absorbed through your skin (unless you have some open cuts
or sores-wear a bandaid!) so the issue of glove usage fades in importance.
 The reason that certain people should wear gloves has more to do with
individual sensitivities than with major health risks.  This will be
discussed more when we get to other chemicals.

Under normal working temperatures, you should not be at risk of inhaling lead
fumes.  Lead does not become a gas at the temperatures needed for soldering.
 (You should be aware that there is an excellent soldering iron, the
Weller-100, that is internally regulated to stay at an ideal pre-set
temperature, rather than relying on you to fiddle around with a
voltage-control rheostat.)  There will, however, be some flux-solder mists
generated by soldering, and  a small fan blowing the mists away from you, or
HEPA exhaust system down where you are working should take care of this.

The worst possible arrangement would be an exhaust system which would
generate air currents directly form the soldering site past your nose on its
way to being exhausted.  The device should be at the site of soldering, not
in the ceiling or window behind you.  (An exhaust fan in the window in front
of you, however, would be excellent.)

Therefore, I donn't see much of a need for wearing respirators and face masks
under ordinary soldering conditions.

Simple hand washing with a mild soap when you are finished will complete what
I submit are appropriate hygienic concerns for the stained glass hobbyist. 

Finally, the question of blood tests will be addressed in the next Dr. Ed.
Column."
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From owner-glass Wed Mar 20 17:17:58 1996
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From: ScottSGN@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Dr. Ed from SGN #16
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 20:15:52 -0500
Message-ID: <1996Mar20.151552.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi, this is Scott from Stained Glass News. I saw a reference on this list
recently to several columns that we ran in SGN a few years ago. They were
written by "Dr. Ed" Weisbart, a board certified family physician practicing
in a teaching hospital in downtown Chicago, who is also a hot and cold
glassworker. The columns dealt with lead safety and I thought all of you
would be interested in reading them.

Here's the column from SGN #16:

"QUESTION: Exactly what blood tests should we have done on a regular basis?

RESPONSE: Those of you paying attention will notice that this is a
continuaton of a letter from the last issue of SGN.

Many people are confused about the different blood tests currently available,
and this is because there has recently been a change in the recommendations
regarding screening tests for lead toxicity.

Until very recently, measuring the actual lead content of someone's blood was
a fairly difficult and expensive procedure   With the interest people have
had in mass screening for lead toxicity, there was the introduction in the
1970's of an assortment of measurements of "protoporphyrins" as a screening
test for lead toxicity.  These indirect tests were cheap, easy to perform,
and could actually be done in a mobile van when needed.  Although other
medical conditions could cause an abnormal protoporphyrin level (most notably
iron deficiency anemias) they were successful at finding the more severe
cases of lead poisoning.

Within the last few years, however, the technology for easily and accurately
measuring low levels of blood lead has become widely available.  With this
availability has come more research in the significance of low level
elevations of blood lead.  It is now becoming clear that there really isn't a
"normal" amount of lead to be in your blood.  Especially in children,
behavioral and learning problems are detectable at levels of lead elevation
previously unmeasurable.

At the same time, there is now excellent evidence that protoporphyrins  do
not elevate unless there is a marked exposure to lead.  Certainly abnormal
protoporphyrins warrant further investigation, but a normal protoporphyrin
level does not adequately exclude the possibility of an increased lead level.

So between the inadequacy of protoporphyrin screening, the increased
availability and ease of measuring lead levels, and the recognized need to
identify subtler levels of lead toxicity the current recommendation is for
people with lead exposure to be periodically screened with blood lead tests
and nothing else.  The frequency of such screening is something of a
judgement call, but once a year seems a reasonable suggestion.

The Centers for Disease Control, the federal government's public health
standard setter, recently lowered the definition of lead poisoning from 25
ug./dl. to 10 ug./dl.  As quoted in JAMA  July 17, 1991, David Bellinger,
Ph.D. at Children's Hospital in Boston, Mass.:

"There is nothing magic about the figure of 10 (ug./dl.).  There is no strong
consensus that that's the threshold for toxicity, but there is consensus that
the risk becomes substantially increased so that on a population level, the
adverse effects are detectable."

So a mild elevation in your blood level should make you reevaluate your glass
working habits relative to the hygiene issues outlined in the last issue of
SGN,  and probably at least a phone call to your health care professional for
further discussion.

Unfortunately, you have to also keep in mind that a low blood lead level does
not automatically mean that you do not have a lot of lead stored in your
bones.  You see, after being absorbed, lead doesn't just hang around in your
blood.  It replaces calcium from your bone mass, and hangs around there for
years.  There are other more sophisticated tests for measuring your "bone
load" of lead, but they are quite expensive and actually involve some risk
all by themselves.  It's worth your knowing this, though, because if you have
reason to be very suspicious that you are suffering from lead toxicity, a
simple blood test may not be a 100% guarantee of safety either.  Of course,
prevention is the much better way to deal with this problem.
The first question here, really, is should anyone bother getting a lead level
if they feel okay?

Obviously I think they should or I wouldn't have bored you with all of this
stuff.  The problem with lead, you see, is that it can have very subtle
effects on you.  What are the symptoms?  They range from chronic headaches,
difficulty concentrating, vague abdominal pains, depression (and all its
associated symptoms!), nausea, weakness, numbness and tingling of your hands
and feet, not to mention heart failure, seizures, kidney failurex And it's
not likethis stuff just up and starts all at one time with a sticker on your
forehead that says "Check a lead level!"  How many of us have some of these
symptoms for years and ignore them?

So despite the limitations and inconvenience, it's a good idea to
periodically go in for a lead level.

Last but not least, I want to reemphasize the fact that there is no evidence
of stained glass hobbyists having lead toxicity if they just pay attention to
basic hygiene. "
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From owner-glass Wed Mar 20 17:38:43 1996
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From: FStryczek@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Tiffany Lamp Reproductions
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 20:36:01 -0500
Message-ID: <1996Mar20.15361.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Howdy! I am making a Tiffany reproduction of the "Wisteria-Laburnum" lamp,
22", on an Oddessey form.  I've never used a form requiring taky wax!  Does
anyone have any suggestions for the proper application and use of this wax on
such a large form? I would appreciate tips on how to apply the wax, how thick
should I put it on; and what's the best way to get the lamp off the form
after inital soldering?  Also, does the wax interfer in any way with the
soldering of the inside of the lamp? I've got a lot invested in this lamp and
do not want to screw it up. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks.
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From owner-glass Wed Mar 20 18:12:26 1996
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From: "Kathy Chivers" <tchivers@alpha.netaccess.on.ca>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject:       Re: Stepping Stones
Date:          Wed, 20 Mar 1996 21:08:20 +0000
Message-ID: <199603210210.VAA24021@alpha.netaccess.on.ca>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


A couple of questions though, "topping mix" is this a prepared product
that one has to buy or can I mix myself, also the concrete mix, is that just
ordinary powdered concrete mixed with water. 
  
Hi  Guys,
Thanks for the response to my stepping stone mini seminar!
Yes,Andrea,I loved the class and came away really enthused.
A funny thing happened at the seminar.My instructor had a teacher 
helping with the class.They were hamming it up and trying to out do 
each other.They really had the class in the palms of their hand until 
we all started to smell something.With all that stand up comic 
routine , they had accidently poured cutter oil into the concrete 
instead of water.What a mess! They kept on going (very embarrassed) 
even when they weren't sure how it would turn out.Well apparently it 
just slid right out of the form(or that's the story they are sticking 
with!)
    In step 11(I think!) I forgot to mention when you pop out the 
stone peel off the vinyl.
    As for topping mix,good question!I am not a masonary engineer by 
trade, so I took my husband with me to the seminar.Topping premix is 
actually a finer mix than concrete(perhaps cement?)Both the cement 
and concrete that was used was a  premixed that was mixed with water.
Maybe someone out there can explain it better.Both bags of powder 
were labelled as premixed concrete and topping mix.(2 different bags)
 Andrea, as for the Wilton cake tins,they are a cake decorators form 
that comes in many different shapes with indentations of different 
pics and characters.Many children's bithday cakes are made this 
way. I think they are aluminum.Perhaps Carole can elaborate on this better than me.
    Bye for now!
    Kathy
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From owner-glass Wed Mar 20 18:12:31 1996
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From: "Kathy Chivers" <tchivers@alpha.netaccess.on.ca>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject:       Re: Stepping Stones
Date:          Wed, 20 Mar 1996 21:08:20 +0000
Message-ID: <199603210210.VAA24015@alpha.netaccess.on.ca>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


A couple of questions though, "topping mix" is this a prepared product
that one has to buy or can I mix myself, also the concrete mix, is that just
ordinary powdered concrete mixed with water. 
  
Hi  Guys,
Thanks for the response to my stepping stone mini seminar!
Yes,Andrea,I loved the class and came away really enthused.
A funny thing happened at the seminar.My instructor had a teacher 
helping with the class.They were hamming it up and trying to out do 
each other.They really had the class in the palms of their hand until 
we all started to smell something.With all that stand up comic 
routine , they had accidently poured cutter oil into the concrete 
instead of water.What a mess! They kept on going (very embarrassed) 
even when they weren't sure how it would turn out.Well apparently it 
just slid right out of the form(or that's the story they are sticking 
with!)
    In step 11(I think!) I forgot to mention when you pop out the 
stone peel off the vinyl.
    As for topping mix,good question!I am not a masonary engineer by 
trade, so I took my husband with me to the seminar.Topping premix is 
actually a finer mix than concrete(perhaps cement?)Both the cement 
and concrete that was used was a  premixed that was mixed with water.
Maybe someone out there can explain it better.Both bags of powder 
were labelled as premixed concrete and topping mix.(2 different bags)
 Andrea, as for the Wilton cake tins,they are a cake decorators form 
that comes in many different shapes with indentations of different 
pics and characters.Many children's bithday cakes are made this 
way. I think they are aluminum.Perhaps Carole can elaborate on this better than me.
    Bye for now!
    Kathy
----
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From owner-glass Wed Mar 20 20:32:25 1996
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X-Path: gr.cns.net!Pristine
From: Pristine <Pristine@gr.cns.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Test
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 1996 00:33:13 -0800
Message-ID: <1996Mar20.163313.0>
References: <<31506D49@mailgate.css.edu>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Pristine Glass Co.
Precedence: bulk

RICK KOLBAK wrote:
> 
> Hmmmm........................
> 

Hmmm is right.
-- 
    * mickey mackenzie for Pristine Glass Co.
    * <mickey> pristine@gr.cns.net * http://www.cns.net/pristine
    also
    * mickey@grfn.org * http://www.grfn.org/~mickey
----
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From owner-glass Wed Mar 20 20:34:00 1996
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X-Path: swin.edu.au!andreaking
From: "Andrea King" <andreaking@swin.edu.au>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Stepping Stones
Summary: Authenticated sender is <andreaking@gpo.swin.edu.au>
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 1996 15:30:35 +0000
Message-ID: <199603210430.AA11837@lucy.swin.edu.au>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Swinburne University
Precedence: bulk

Thanks again for the info Kathy,

I will most definitely be finding time to try the stepping stones.  
As for the cement I think I know what you mean and will visit my 
hardware store this weekend.  I have some magnificant irridised glass 
that I can put into cement.  It looks lousy with the light behind it 
as only looks like black whispy type glass.  Will let you know how it 
goes. 

Andrea
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From owner-glass Wed Mar 20 22:36:25 1996
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X-Path: aol.com!Glas4me
From: Glas4me@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: No. of projects at a time
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 1996 01:34:29 -0500
Message-ID: <1996Mar20.203429.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Donna,

Wow, finally someone who has at least a little bit in common with me!  I've
wondered about the others in the group, and about their "studios"  when I
only have an 8' x 8' area.  I used to work down in my basement, but I didn't
feel that I got enough ventilation, so I had this little "studio" built.  The
reason it's so small is because that was all we could fit behind our house.
 It has two windows so I have plenty of ventilation now!  

As far as how many projects I have going at one time...like you my space is
pretty limited, but I never have only one at a time going.  Usually it's two
or three in varying stages.  I too hate to have unfinished projects
around...but I get excited about other projects.  Also, soldering is my least
favorite part of the craft...I love to cut, foil, and grind.  I'm just
learning how to do leading.


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From owner-glass Wed Mar 20 23:26:28 1996
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To: rglass-1
X-Path: aol.com!Glas4me
From: Glas4me@aol.com
Subject: Gatewayed mail message
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 1996 02:24:57 -0500
Message-ID: <199603210724.CAA20688@emout05.mail.aol.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

 I don't know how to get the message to remain when I reply.
 I think I can get it to print the whole thing...but that's what we're trying
to avoid-right?

Debby
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From owner-glass Thu Mar 21 06:26:11 1996
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X-Path: aol.com!GCmagazine
From: GCmagazine@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Tiffany Lamp Reproductions
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 1996 09:23:25 -0500
Message-ID: <1996Mar21.42325.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

DearF.
There are a number of ways to tackle a project like the Wisteria-Laburnum.
Before you apply any wax to your mold, give me a call at (215) 860-9947.


Joe Porcelli
Editor/Glass Craftsman Magazine
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From owner-glass Thu Mar 21 06:49:51 1996
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From: "Lisa Anne Rosochacki" <rosochac@pilot.msu.edu>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: stepping stones
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 1996 09:47:12 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <199603211447.JAA128021@pilot07.cl.msu.edu>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk



Hello All,

I thought that I would share my two cents worth on Patio Stones...
I teach the Patio Stones classes at the store that I work at and i have a few
pointers that I think you might find helpful.

To begin make sure that you have a copy of your pattern available, not just the
original.  Alot of times it's easier to cut and trace than to try to use a
light box.  I assume that you all would think of it but I thought that I would
still remind you.  I tell my students to start cutting their main image
pieces...say the flower and the foliage and the ribbon (I'm going by the
patterns in the Tiffany Garden book.).  Leave the backgound pieces til last
because you can cut those to fit in around any pieces that might not be exactly
to the pattern.  Keep in mind that mosaics are not like stained glass in that
all the pieces need to fit exactly, alot of people that do stained glass try to
cut it all "lock and key" fit and it's not necessary for a mosaic piece.  Once
you have the main image cut out, I have found that it's alot easier to get a
nice looking gap if you take a piece of contact paper and cut it to the hex of
the pattern adn lay it sticky side up on top of the pattern and lay out your
pieces face up on top of the sticky contact.  The contact paper will keep all
of your pieces in place as you work.  If the contact paper is sliding around
too much, tape the corners to keep it on you pattern.  Once I'm done with the
flowers and stuff, I cut the background.  I have found that some of the pieces
in the Tiffany Garden book are very difficult to cut unless you ahve a bandsaw
and therefore I tell my students to cut it as close as possible and then to cut
the background piece to fit, or if the piece is very tiny, and there are some
that are very tiny, I suggest eliminating that piece.  Omitting a few small
pieces doesn't change the look of the stone at all.  Also, I don't like to
grind my pieces unless it's somthing like the ribbon which I want very smoothe.
Not grinding serves two purposes, it keeps the edges a bit rough adn the cement
then has more area to grip the glass and hold it in place, and it makes the
process alot faster, decreasing the amount of time that you spend running back
adn forth between the grinder and your piece.  If you're concerned about how it
will look, don't be.  The cement will cover it up and once you seal the stones
any edges that you may think are sharp will be glazed over and dulled.  When
all of the pieces are cut and  placed where you want them, then cut another
piece of contact paper and place it over the top of the glass, smoothe it out
and turn the "sandwich" of contact paper and glass and contact paper over adn
take off the contact from the back of the glass.  If you want to cut a bunch of
stones in the winter andd then pour them in the summer, then leave the two
pieces of contact paper on the glass and that will keep all of you pieces in
place untill your ready to pour the cement.  Keep in mind that as they sit the
contact will get a bit tacky and when you take the backing off the glass it
make take a bit of care.  Ok...put the glass into the form, you should be
looking at the back of the glass.  I use "Ready-Mix" or "Quik-Crete" brands of
GRAVEL mix.  The book uses a top mix, which is an all sand cement mix, but it
isn't the strongest stuff.  The Gravel mix contains the gravel which is what
gives the cement more strength, thus eliminating the need for chicken wire
reinforcement in the stone.  I usually mix up the cement and place a few cups
onto the glass and rub the cement down into the cracks with my hands.  This
forces the smaller, sandy pieces of the mix onto the top surface of your stone
and gives a better finish.  When I think that it's ready I pour the rest of the
cement into the back, completely filling the form.  I have found that the most
important part of making the stones is getting the cement mixed up properly.  I
mix that is too wet will cause the lime and jipsum particals to rise to the
back of the stone as the water evaporates and those particles are what keep it
all "glued" together.  I usually mix up some of the cement and water and when I
think that it's the consitancy that I need I make a well, like in baking, in
the center if the cement and let it stand a minute or two.  If water puddles in
that well at all then the mix is too wet and you need to add more dry cement.
When the stones have set for a couple of days, turn them out (I have heard that
an ironing board works good for this because you can get to the edges under the
form and not crush your knuckles into the table top.)  Take the contact paper
off the glass and clean up the glass with a damp sponge.  Sometimes you might
have to use an X-acto knife to get the tough spots.  I then let the stone sit
for about 3 weeks to make sure that it has cured and then I seal them with a
deck and cement sealer...I like Thompson's.  When you seal the stone do the
front, sides and then part of the back...leave an area about 5-6 inches across,
unsealed so that if moisture does get into the stone, or is still in the stone
it has an escape area.

Ok...I know that this was a bit winded but I thought that you might like to
know a few of the things that I do.  If anyone has any questions please let me
know... or if you have any suggestions that I could pass on to my students, I
would like to know.

Lisa R.

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From owner-glass Thu Mar 21 07:17:14 1996
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X-Path: mail.deltanet.com!wldsculp
From: wldsculp@mail.deltanet.com (KIM&SUSAN)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Grinder solutions?
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 96 07:14:44 -0800
Message-ID: <v01530500ad75f4dfc77b@[199.171.191.204]>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

>> >Does anyone know of a grinder head that will work with Dremmel tool or a
>> >router?
>>
>>
<message deleted>
>
>I have been told that my Craftsman router lacks the necessary rotational
>velocity to properly grind glass.  If anyone knows of a grinder head suitable
>for use in a router, I would like to try it anyway.
>
>Thanks,
>James Brauer

Hi James,
I have done a lot of gem and glass carving and started with a Dremel, but
have always used diamond tools on a Fordom Hand Shaft.There are quite a few
different
types, shapes and prices.As long as you let the tool do the cutting and
don't force the work.I would suggest a visit to the library to find an
issue of The Lapidary Journal(or the news stand) where diamond tool adds
abound.
Hope this helps, Regards,
K & S

...fly-by-net...Marketing
wldsculp@deltanet.com
http://www.billboards.com/billboards/flybynet/fbn1.html


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From owner-glass Thu Mar 21 08:44:12 1996
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X-Path: pig.net!chicago
From: carole pearson <chicago@pig.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Stepping Stones
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 1996 11:43:46 -0500
Message-ID: <199603211643.AA28687@pig.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

At 10:43 AM 3/21/96 +0000, you wrote:
>Kathy,
>
>Thanks you very much for details of the process.  You did'nt say if 
>you enjoyed this process and are you pleased with the results.  
>

>
>Also I read from Carole here query about the Wilton cake forms, what 
>are they?  Are they ceramic or pyrex?
>
>Thanks again for forwarding the details
>
>Andrea
>----


Hi Kathy,

Carole here....I would also like to add a word of thanks for all of the gr
eat information about the process involved making stepping stones.  I'm also
curious about the design that you choose to make and were you impressed
enough to make more of them? 

I think the part I liked best in your posting was the suggestion to use old
wire coat hangers to reinforce the concrete. Yeah!!! At last!! A noble death
to the lowly wire coat hanger!

Andrea,

The wilton cake pans I have are aluminum. The reason they came to mind is
that I have so many of them in all sizes and shapes from my salad days when
I thought I could "frost" the world. Now they are just cluttering up my
pantry and I thought maybe I could "convert" them into something currently
useful.

Carole Pearson
chicago@pig.net
****************************************************************************
***********************

People stand in awe of the animal trainer in a cage with half a dozen wild
lions and tigers.....all, that is, but a school bus driver
                                                   W. Hembach

****************************************************************************
****************

****************************************************************************
***********************

People stand in awe of the animal trainer in a cage with half a dozen wild
lions and tigers.....all, that is, but a school bus driver
                                                   W. Hembach

****************************************************************************
************************


----
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From owner-glass Thu Mar 21 14:44:52 1996
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X-Path: ix.netcom.com!izzy3
From: izzy3@ix.netcom.com (Michael Smoucha )
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: grouting
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 1996 14:43:38 -0800
Message-ID: <199603212243.OAA11085@ix15.ix.netcom.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

You wrote: 
>
>  I have heard about the thinner grout that you push into
>the groves w/ a brush. Since I like to use glue chip glass I am 
wondering
>how the thinner grouting cleans up??  Any suggestions? 
>
All you need to do is emulsify the dap with turpentine ( use pur turps 
not paint thinner) add lamp black and your ready to go. Mix it to the 
consistency of pancake batter. Use Whitting and sawdust to clean up 
your panel. If you are doing an indoor window only cement the smooth 
side.
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From owner-glass Thu Mar 21 14:52:56 1996
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From: rneaves@ix.netcom.com (Roger Neaves )
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Stepping Stones
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 1996 14:52:08 -0800
Message-ID: <199603212252.OAA19507@ix8.ix.netcom.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

With all this discussion about stepping stones, has anyone seen the 
video by Vicki Payne about this subject?  Her method is to use a 
preformed stone and glueing all the glass to it.  Then she used grout 
(?) around the glass pieces, let it cure and voila!  I saw this on the 
local PBS channel but I think this has been around for a while.  I 
didn't get a chance to tape this episode.  

I would be interested in any comments if someone has tried this method.

Janet Neaves
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From owner-glass Thu Mar 21 19:29:23 1996
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From: "Lorley L. Oneyear" <lorley@netzone.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: grouting
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 1996 20:16:24 -0700
Message-ID: <199603220316.UAA03654@nz1.netzone.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Izzy wrote about thinning my DAP grouting w/ turentime and adding lamp
black, till of pancake batter consistency.  I think I can do that, but how
is it for cleaning up?? Since I use a lot of glue chip glass I'm a little
leary of "pouring" grouting on. Someone else said to use contact paper to
cover the glue chip but we're talking about 50 or so pieces.. Seems like a
lot of work.. Guess I'll have to try it on a smaller project.  This one I'm
working on has 100 pieces and it's an sidelight approx 10" across by 40"
tall.  It contains an Iris and lots of dogwood flowers. (it's the top panel
of 2).. Thanks for all the help.

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From owner-glass Thu Mar 21 19:34:29 1996
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From: "Kathy Chivers" <tchivers@alpha.netaccess.on.ca>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject:       Re: Stepping Stones
Date:          Thu, 21 Mar 1996 22:32:59 +0000
Message-ID: <199603220334.WAA01989@alpha.netaccess.on.ca>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


>Kathy,
>Carole here....I would also like to add a word of thanks for all of the gr
>eat information about the process involved making stepping stones.  I'm also
>curious about the design that you choose to make and were you impressed
>enough to make more of them? 

Hi Carole and Andrea,
    The class I went to was actually a seminar .The instructors had 
patio stones completed to various stages with us "helping""with 
cutting final pieces,mixing concrete ,hammering air bubbles...etc.No 
one would volunteer though, to "vaseline"the form! So, I haven't yet 
completed one.I am cutting out a brick size with a tulip pattern that 
I hope to use as a door stop.I thought that would be a good size to 
practice on before tackling the hexagon called Sunface. It is a 
bright yellow sun with a face that would make a terrific sundial.I'll let you 
know how I make out.And YES,I am very impressed with what I've seen 
so far.They are so beautiful.My supplier is "weather testing"3  he 
has at his home that he made in October and will have a report for us soon,hopefully.
   Thanks  Lisa for the in depth directions.I was trying to keep 
it short and sweet but still coherent..You made some really great 
suggestions that were not covered in my seminar..
   One last tip.The instructors could see no reason why the patio 
stones could not be walked on if they were flat.One said he has a 
rectangular stone at his front door and loves to watch guests come 
and purposely jump over it .They don't want to walk on it at any 
cost.
      Bye for now!
      Kathy
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From owner-glass Fri Mar 22 16:58:31 1996
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From: izzy3@ix.netcom.com (Michael Smoucha )
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: grouting
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 1996 16:55:32 -0800
Message-ID: <199603230055.QAA15019@ix4.ix.netcom.com>
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You wrote: 
>
> Someone else said to use contact paper to
>cover the glue chip but we're talking about 50 or so pieces.. Seems 
like a
>lot of work.. 

Use two different brushes. First sprinkle on whiting or plaster and 
buush the window down with a stiff (natural bristle ( they are brown 
bristles) brush) Then cover the panel with sawdust and brush again with 
a soft brush to clean and polish. I've done many panels with glue chip 
and haven't had a problem. Though crackle can be a bother. 

Good luck.

ms

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From owner-glass Fri Mar 22 18:05:41 1996
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From: Elaine & Howard Rubin <weaver51@teleport.com>
To: Glass list <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: AWAY...
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 96 18:05:01 -0500
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-- [ From: Elaine & Howard Rubin * EMC.Ver #2.5.02 ] --

Hi All, Howard here. Leaving for Carmel and San Franscisco early on Sat
morning. We will be moving inventory around, playing tourist, and in general
just annoying people (we are or we will).
We will pick up our son in Portland in about a week from tomorrow and keep
him on the coast for about a week.
I should be back at the keyboard in around 8 days.
AGAIN, thanks for the www page input, and some changesd will occur in a few
weks.
Enjoy....H
--
UNDER CONSTRUCTION...Check out http://www.teleport.com/~cbs/howard/hrubin.
htm

Elaine and Howard, mastering technology one byte at a time!
E-Mail address is...weaver51@teleport.com

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From owner-glass Sat Mar 23 11:26:41 1996
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From: direct.ca!kmccullo
Subject: Re: grouting
Date: Sat Mar 23 11:21:55 1996
Message-ID: <96Mar23.111706-0800pdt.269358-205+410@aphex.direct.ca>
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I just finished my door in which I used a lot of glue chip and I used DAP. I
didn't have a problem removing it with the whiting. Although there were a
couple of areas where it stayed in the lines & I just used a wooden barbeque
skewer to remove it.

Karin

>Izzy wrote about thinning my DAP grouting w/ turentime and adding lamp
>black, till of pancake batter consistency.  I think I can do that, but how
>is it for cleaning up?? Since I use a lot of glue chip glass I'm a little
>leary of "pouring" grouting on. Someone else said to use contact paper to
>cover the glue chip but we're talking about 50 or so pieces.. Seems like a
>lot of work.. Guess I'll have to try it on a smaller project.  This one I'm
>working on has 100 pieces and it's an sidelight approx 10" across by 40"
>tall.  It contains an Iris and lots of dogwood flowers. (it's the top panel
>of 2).. Thanks for all the help.
>
>----
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>
>

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From owner-glass Sat Mar 23 11:31:03 1996
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From: direct.ca!kmccullo
Subject: Re: grouting
Date: Sat Mar 23 11:27:35 1996
Message-ID: <96Mar23.112254-0800pdt.269351-193+350@aphex.direct.ca>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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You wrote: ( use pure turps not paint thinner). The liquid in DAP is paint
thinner, what is the reason for using turpintine ?
Karin
>You wrote: 
>>
>>  I have heard about the thinner grout that you push into
>>the groves w/ a brush. Since I like to use glue chip glass I am 
>wondering
>>how the thinner grouting cleans up??  Any suggestions? 
>>
>All you need to do is emulsify the dap with turpentine ( use pur turps 
>not paint thinner) add lamp black and your ready to go. Mix it to the 
>consistency of pancake batter. Use Whitting and sawdust to clean up 
>your panel. If you are doing an indoor window only cement the smooth 
>side.
>----
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>
>

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From owner-glass Sat Mar 23 11:31:36 1996
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From: LBettin@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: No. of projects at a time
Date: Sat, 23 Mar 1996 14:28:07 -0500
Message-ID: <1996Mar23.9287.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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To Donna S. --

Don't worry about "cheatin" cause anything that gets you there and works is
fine.  Drawing is just one of those things -- if you like it you will get
good at it.  I mostly do glass work for friends and family and usually design
my own things because everybody has specific requirements and I like the
design phase and don't like to do what everyone else is doing.  Sometimes it
is time consuming, but since I am not doing this for profit I can spare it.
 Guess I am just not satisfied to do what someone else has done (but I too
"steal" a little from others -- reinventing the whole wheel is just a bit too
much).  Whatever you do, if you have fun doing it, then do it. Laura B. from
Carson City, NV.
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From owner-glass Sat Mar 23 12:05:15 1996
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X-Path: direct.ca!kmccullo
From: direct.ca!kmccullo
Subject: Re: Working on?
Date: Sat Mar 23 12:03:05 1996
Message-ID: <96Mar23.115726-0800pdt.205284-286+391@orb.direct.ca>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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>Hi Kelly,
No you are not the only one that works on several projects at the same time.
I do this also a lot. But, then I find that being a mom, plus working full
time & because I also do a lot of other crafts, as a women I am able to
juggle all of these things and still get them all finished. Takes practice &
organization to do all of these things. I also find that the busier I am the
more effecient & quicker I work. I thinks part of being female. Make life
interesting. 
>>
>>Am I the only one who has seven or so projects going at once?  Barbara
>
>I wish I had room to keep seven or so projects going.  My garage (I mean
>studio) is also my husbands music room.  So space is very limited.  I do
>keep about 2 to 3 projects going usually.  Sometimes I'll have a couple of
>panels and a couple of smaller projects (nightlites, candleholders, etc.),
>but that's about all I can handle.  I dream of the day that I can buy a
>house and have my own room full of space to work.
>Kelly
>
>
>
>===================================================================
>Kelly Bryant
>Placement Coordinator
>Department of Geological Sciences
>The University of Texas at Austin
>
>(512)471-4486
>(512)471-9425 FAX
>kgbryant@mail.utexas.edu
>===================================================================
>
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
>

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From owner-glass Sat Mar 23 13:58:04 1996
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From: LBettin@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Stepping Stones
Date: Sat, 23 Mar 1996 16:57:15 -0500
Message-ID: <1996Mar23.115715.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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To Janet Neaves:  Re Vicki Payne Stepping Stone Method.

Hi Janet:  I have not tried the stones themselves.  I have, however, covered
some terra cotta pots with this method, which I used as containers for
Christmas baskets.  I used GE Silicone glue and regular tile grout with sand
mix and then a grout sealer.  So far so good (I kept 2 which I use in my
bathrooms for soaps, etc.).  I'm thinking of trying a stone this spring, so I
too would be interested if anyone has tried them and used them in the garden.

Laura Bettingen, Carson City, NV
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From owner-glass Sun Mar 24 05:46:25 1996
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From: "Lisa Anne Rosochacki" <rosochac@pilot.msu.edu>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Stepping Stones
Date: Sun, 24 Mar 1996 08:45:32 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <199603241345.IAA26883@pilot14.cl.msu.edu>
References: <<1996Mar23.115715.0>>
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Hi

First let me apologize for my last post about Stepping Stones... I was trying
to write it in a hurry between classes and I left out a few important things
like paragraphs and good sentence construction.  Sorry  :)  I do know how to
write.

> Christmas baskets.  I used GE Silicone glue and regular tile grout with sand
> mix and then a grout sealer.  So far so good (I kept 2 which I use in my
> bathrooms for soaps, etc.).  I'm thinking of trying a stone this spring, so I
> too would be interested if anyone has tried them and used them in the garden.

I have some that i did last summer and they have been out all winter here in
Michigan.  They seem to be doing great.  I checked them periodically throughout
the winter and they didn't even look wet.  I have them set up as a short path
to a pair of birdfeeders.  I think that the key is to seal them real well
before putting them out, and then resealing them every spring, at least on the
top surface.

Lisa R

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From owner-glass Sun Mar 24 08:34:52 1996
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From: "Kathy Chivers" <tchivers@alpha.netaccess.on.ca>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject:       Re: stepping stones
Date:          Sun, 24 Mar 1996 11:19:16 +0000
Message-ID: <199603241633.LAA06660@alpha.netaccess.on.ca>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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>Hello All,

>I thought that I would share my two cents worth on Patio Stones...
>I teach the Patio Stones classes at the store that I work at and i have a few
>pointers that I think you might find helpful.

Hi Lisa Anne,
   
   Don't worry about your last post.Your instructions came thru loud 
and clear. Thanks again.
  I  could use  your expert opinion. I want to make a door stop and am 
planning to use a long narrow loaf pan.I want  the top and 
sides to be covered with my glass pattern..Is there anything I  
should do when putting the sides into the pan.Do you think they will stand 
up on their own until I get all the concrete poured in? Also, do I 
need to coat with vaseline all the way up the sides?
  Thanking you in advance!
   Kathy
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From owner-glass Sun Mar 24 08:34:53 1996
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From: "Kathy Chivers" <tchivers@alpha.netaccess.on.ca>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject:       Re: stepping stones
Date:          Sun, 24 Mar 1996 11:20:53 +0000
Message-ID: <199603241633.LAA06663@alpha.netaccess.on.ca>
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>Hello All,

>I thought that I would share my two cents worth on Patio Stones...
>I teach the Patio Stones classes at the store that I work at and i have a few
>pointers that I think you might find helpful.

Hi Lisa Anne,
   
   Don't worry about your last post.Your instructions came thru loud 
and clear. Thanks again.
  I  could use  your expert opinion. I want to make a door stop and am 
planning to use a long narrow loaf pan.I want  the top and 
sides to be covered with my glass pattern..Is there anything I  
should do when putting the sides into the pan.Do you think they will stand 
up on their own until I get all the concrete poured in? Also, do I 
need to coat with vaseline all the way up the sides?
  Thanking you in advance!
   Kathy
----
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From owner-glass Sun Mar 24 08:52:07 1996
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From: izzy3@ix.netcom.com (Michael Smoucha )
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: grouting
Date: Sun, 24 Mar 1996 08:50:13 -0800
Message-ID: <199603241650.IAA05333@ix2.ix.netcom.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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You wrote: 
>
>You wrote: ( use pure turps not paint thinner). The liquid in DAP is 
paint
>thinner, what is the reason for using turpintine ?
>Karin

The paint thinner seems to cause a gummier mixture.

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From owner-glass Sun Mar 24 10:27:03 1996
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From: rickhauf@usa.pipeline.com (rick hauf)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Stepping Stones
Date: Sun, 24 Mar 1996 13:26:02 -0500
Message-ID: <9603241826.AA03109@pipe8>
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Lisa Anne- 
 
I am very interested in what you are making. Can you tell me a little more
about what you are working on. It sounds very interesting. What other types
of crafts do you do? I really enjoy all types of crafts, especially stained
glass, floral arranging, wreaths, cross-stitch, sewing, wood, and painting.
I am new on the computer and it would be fun to share ideas. 
 
 
 
Sincerely, 
Denise Hauf 
rickhauf@usa.pipeline.com  
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From owner-glass Sun Mar 24 20:00:16 1996
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From: rneaves@ix.netcom.com (Roger Neaves )
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Stepping Stones
Date: Sun, 24 Mar 1996 17:13:48 -0800
Message-ID: <199603250113.RAA27589@dfw-ix5.ix.netcom.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

You wrote: 
>
>To Janet Neaves:  Re Vicki Payne Stepping Stone Method.
>
>Hi Janet:  I have not tried the stones themselves.  I have, however, 
covered
>some terra cotta pots with this method, which I used as containers for
>Christmas baskets.  I used GE Silicone glue and regular tile grout 
with sand
>mix and then a grout sealer.         
>Laura Bettingen, Carson City, NV
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
Hi Laura:

Thank you for the tips.  I am eager to try this as soon as I finish my 
current project.   Janet Neaves

From owner-glass Sun Mar 24 20:09:34 1996
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To: rglass-42
X-Path: foo
From: foo
Subject: Re: Stepping Stones
Date: Sun Mar 24 20:05:42 1996
Message-ID: <96Mar24.190406-0800pdt.205322-294+681@orb.direct.ca>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi Denise, Karin here. This net group is pretty good. Sharing info with each other is great. I also do a lot of other crafts as yourself, the only one I really haven't tried yet is painting.Stained glass is a wonderful craft to learn and there is always something new to learn. (sometimes the hard way). It is not a craft like sewing or cross stitch where we know what to do if we mess up. Stained glass is not quite so forgiving. What x-stitch patterns have you done ? My last project was the Victorian house with all the individual rooms. That project took me months. And, I done a lot of the Disney patterns for my kids when they were small.
>Lisa Anne- 
> 
>I am very interested in what you are making. Can you tell me a little more
>about what you are working on. It sounds very interesting. What other types
>of crafts do you do? I really enjoy all types of crafts, especially stained
>glass, floral arranging, wreaths, cross-stitch, sewing, wood, and painting.
>I am new on the computer and it would be fun to share ideas. 
> 
> 
> 
>Sincerely, 
>Denise Hauf 
>rickhauf@usa.pipeline.com  
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
>


From owner-glass Sun Mar 24 20:10:03 1996
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To: rglass-42
X-Path: foo
From: foo
Subject: Re: grouting
Date: Sun Mar 24 20:06:19 1996
Message-ID: <96Mar24.191055-0800pdt.270662-18552+338@aphex.direct.ca>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi, Thank you for the info on turpintine. I did use paint thinner in the DAP
I mixed for my door, but only because I didn't know how the 2 chemicals
would re-act to each other & 2ndly I thought I be safer using what was
already in the mixture. Thanks again. Karin
>You wrote: 
>>
>>You wrote: ( use pure turps not paint thinner). The liquid in DAP is 
>paint
>>thinner, what is the reason for using turpintine ?
>>Karin
>
>The paint thinner seems to cause a gummier mixture.
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
>


From owner-glass Sun Mar 24 20:10:35 1996
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From: rneaves@ix.netcom.com (Roger Neaves )
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Stepping Stones
Date: Sun, 24 Mar 1996 17:13:48 -0800
Message-ID: <199603250113.RAA27589@dfw-ix5.ix.netcom.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

You wrote: 
>
>To Janet Neaves:  Re Vicki Payne Stepping Stone Method.
>
>Hi Janet:  I have not tried the stones themselves.  I have, however, 
covered
>some terra cotta pots with this method, which I used as containers for
>Christmas baskets.  I used GE Silicone glue and regular tile grout 
with sand
>mix and then a grout sealer.         
>Laura Bettingen, Carson City, NV
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
Hi Laura:

Thank you for the tips.  I am eager to try this as soon as I finish my 
current project.   Janet Neaves

From owner-glass Sun Mar 24 20:13:38 1996
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From: xl4u@gate.net (Dr. John Wright)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Gatewayed mail message
Date: Sun, 24 Mar 1996 23:11:24 -0300
Message-ID: <v01510119ad7bb112d1d0@[199.227.29.66]>
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please remove me from mailing list
thanks

John E. Wright, MD



From usa.pipeline.com!rickhauf Sun Mar 24 21:13:07 1996
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To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Stepping Stones
From: rickhauf@usa.pipeline.com (rick hauf)
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Hi Karin, 
 
Sharing craft ideas is really great. This is my first weekend using the
computer. I think that this is a really nice way to converse with others
about crafts, hobbies and other interests. The last cross-stitch I did was
a fancy sign on a pole that read "THE HAUFS", it had a lot of flowers in
the design. I am bout to finish this one craft which is done with all types
of lace. It is a victorian house.  The whole house consists of about 35+
different types of white lace.  It was really a lot of fun. When I finish
it I will scan it and send it to you. It is really different. I also
finished a punch quilt design on styrofoam.  Thats a really easy project.
And my last project that I'm working on now is cats made of material which
are stuffed and finished with lace around the collar. Was your victorian
house a cross-stitch?  It sounds pretty nice.  
 
Keep in touch, 
Denise

From owner-glass Sun Mar 24 21:16:11 1996
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From: rickhauf@usa.pipeline.com (rick hauf)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Stepping Stones
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 05:11:11 GMT
Message-ID: <199603250511.FAA19325@pipe11.h1.usa.pipeline.com>
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Hi Karin, 
 
Sharing craft ideas is really great. This is my first weekend using the
computer. I think that this is a really nice way to converse with others
about crafts, hobbies and other interests. The last cross-stitch I did was
a fancy sign on a pole that read "THE HAUFS", it had a lot of flowers in
the design. I am bout to finish this one craft which is done with all types
of lace. It is a victorian house.  The whole house consists of about 35+
different types of white lace.  It was really a lot of fun. When I finish
it I will scan it and send it to you. It is really different. I also
finished a punch quilt design on styrofoam.  Thats a really easy project.
And my last project that I'm working on now is cats made of material which
are stuffed and finished with lace around the collar. Was your victorian
house a cross-stitch?  It sounds pretty nice.  
 
Keep in touch, 
Denise

From owner-glass Mon Mar 25 03:28:36 1996
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X-Path: cpcn.com!maruca
From: maruca@cpcn.com (la madrugadora)
Subject: stained glass
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 06:16:49 -0500
Message-ID: <9603251116.AA12417@info.cpcn.com>
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OK!

I'll be the bad cop, so somebody else can be the good cop.

Ladies, it is lovely that you practice a number of "crafts." There is
even a newsgroup you can post to, rec.crafts.misc. (if memory serves me
well) Or, you could address these lacy details to each other through
private email.

Otherwise, you may remember you have subscribed to a stained glass
mailing list. That is why we are reading your missives, strictly for
stained glass information. Please resctrict your postings to this topic.

Thanks for your cooperation, 

Mary

From owner-glass Mon Mar 25 06:33:50 1996
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From: RICK KOLBAK <RKOLBAK@stf1.css.edu>
To: Stained Glass Listserve <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Test
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 96 08:18:00 PST
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This is a test.......hmmmmm.......

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Rick Kolbak                                       RKolbak@stf1.css.edu
1119 East 10th Street
Duluth, MN  55805
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

From owner-glass Mon Mar 25 10:50:24 1996
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From: LBettin@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Stepping Stones
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 13:49:03 -0500
Message-ID: <1996Mar25.8493.0>
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Lisa, thanks for the advice about sealing every year.  Here (just below Lake
Tahoe) we have winter seasons that include lots of freezing and thawing,
alternatively all winter long, so I am concerned about the sudden weather
changes.  I would hate to go to all that work and have it ruined by
temperature variations, but you have encouraged me to try it.  Thanks again,
Laura

From owner-glass Mon Mar 25 17:48:03 1996
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From: Glas4me@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Edging projects
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 20:45:49 -0500
Message-ID: <1996Mar25.154549.0>
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Hi all.  I have another question I hope you can help me with.  I am in the
process of foiling the Rose Heart with 6 bevels that's on the front of the
"Sentimental Favorites" book.  Is anyone familiar with it?  Anyway, what I
need to know is, how do I do the edge?  In the past, all I've ever done is
build up the edges with solder.  This project seems a little too large to do
that.  Also, the bevels in the center don't seem to have much support, except
for where they touch each other on the points.  Do they need any special
treatment?   I haven't done hardly anything at all with leading, and what
little I have done, I don't seem to care for it.  Any help will be
appreciated.   

Thanking you in advance...Debby

From owner-glass Mon Mar 25 17:48:38 1996
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From: Glas4me@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: stained glass
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 20:45:35 -0500
Message-ID: <1996Mar25.154535.0>
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Thanks for the note Mary.  I too do alot of different crafts, but really
would rather not discuss them in this particular group.  I thought you
handled it very well...being the "bad cop"!

However, the ladies are lucky to be so multi-talented!!  

From owner-glass Mon Mar 25 23:48:12 1996
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Subject: Gatewayed mail message
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From owner-glass Mon Mar 25 23:50:59 1996
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From owner-glass Tue Mar 26 00:13:38 1996
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From owner-glass Tue Mar 26 00:14:25 1996
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From owner-glass Tue Mar 26 00:27:00 1996
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From owner-glass Tue Mar 26 00:27:11 1996
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From owner-glass Tue Mar 26 01:12:39 1996
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From owner-glass Tue Mar 26 03:06:57 1996
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From: ebsousa@interserv.com
To: Glass@bungi.com
Subject: Setting up Shop
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 1996 02:55:42 -0800
Message-ID: <199603261055.AA21683@relay.interserv.com>
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 Hi! I've a question. I have been doing glass about 3 years I have been thinking 
about starting my own Shop selling supplies and selling projects that I make 
though mostly concentrating on the supplies. There are quite a few stained glass 
people in this area. Any shop owners out there? Any advice, words of wisdom? Can 
I make a living at this (I don't expect to get rich just want to feed and house 
my family).  Thanks for any help I can get.
		
	Donna S.
	Hickory Cottage Crafts
		   

	

From owner-glass Tue Mar 26 07:25:32 1996
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From owner-glass Tue Mar 26 07:30:26 1996
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Date: Tue, 26 Mar 96 09:47:25 -0600
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Hi....My name is Terry Bottrell...tbottrel@rrcc.mb.ca.. would you please add me 
to your mailing list...Thanks very much.    

From owner-glass Tue Mar 26 08:12:36 1996
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From: kimw@why.net (kimw)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: stepping stones
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 1996 10:02:37 -0600
Message-ID: <1996Mar26.4237.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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I was hoping someone could give me some tips or at least let me know I'm
doing this correctly.  I've only been on the mailing list about a week and
all the emails I saw on stepping stones really got me excited.  I am in the
process of putting in a wildflower/herb garden and what a way to mesh my two
favorite things!  I have been taking private glass lessons for about a year
and when I asked my teacher about the stones, she just "happened" to have
the plastic molds and the book "Tiffany Garden, Book One:Mosaic Stepping
Stones and Bricks, by Julie Bishop-Day, The Glass Workbench".  Is anyone
familiar with this book?  I read an email from someone (I don't remember
who) who said they taught how to make these stones.
OK, now to the point.  I did my first stone last night and I'm not sure if I
did it correctly.   I followed all the instructions in the book, however the
book states, "one stepping stone requires approx 30 oz of topping and 50 oz
of pre-mix concrete."  I assumed this was 30 oz dry, so that is what I
measured.  The topping was fine and I completed that step, however, further
along the instructions read, "mix the remainder of the topping with 50 oz of
concrete and water to dry consistency (you should be able to form a ball
with it)".  I did as instructed, but I didn't have nearly enough to fill the
mold and ended up mixing about 3 times that amount.  The instructions
indicate that the mold should be filled to the top, but if you follow the
mixing directions, there is not enough.  Should the mixture be thinner, say
like cream?  Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Kim W.
Kim W.
Smiles are free, share them!

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From owner-glass Tue Mar 26 08:48:00 1996
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From: "Lorley L. Oneyear" <lorley@netzone.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: zinc came
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 1996 09:39:31 -0700
Message-ID: <199603261639.JAA29112@nz1.netzone.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I don't know how I am going to explain this but I'll give it a whirl here.
I will soon be putting the zinc came around a window side light that I am
working on.  I seem to remember that there is a certain placement pattern
for the zinc.  For instance, the vertical zinc should go completely from top
to bottom w/ the horizontal pieces connecting them.  Rather than having the
horizonal pieces longer and having the vertical pieces butting down on them.
Something to do w/ the strength of the zinc frame.  Does this make sense?
If I could draw a picture it would help but I'm a newbie and darn glad I'm
able to email and download. Anybody understand? thanks, lorley

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From owner-glass Tue Mar 26 09:33:17 1996
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From: Joyce Moran <joyce@bright.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Edging projects
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 1996 12:23:42 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <199603261723.MAA15166@brutus.bright.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

  I am in the
>process of foiling the Rose Heart with 6 bevels that's on the front of the
>"Sentimental Favorites" book.  Is anyone familiar with it?  Anyway, what I
>need to know is, how do I do the edge?  In the past, all I've ever done is
>build up the edges with solder.  This project seems a little too large to do
>that.  Also, the bevels in the center don't seem to have much support, except
>for where they touch each other on the points.  Do they need any special
>treatment?   
I have discovered a product called Flex-braid that finished the outside
edges very neatly.  You can also use wire, but unless you are very skilled,
it is hard to keep it exactly in the center of your outer edge.  I have made
this piece and did not reinforce it, but you could also use the flex-braid
inside around the bevel edges.  Hope that helps!
Joyce Moran

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From owner-glass Tue Mar 26 11:32:53 1996
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From: Becky Gerlach <becky_gerlach@MENTORG.COM>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Edging projects 
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 96 10:36:54 PST
Message-ID: <9603261836.AA23383@glass>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Your message dated: Tue, 26 Mar 96 12:23:42 EST
> I have discovered a product called Flex-braid that finished the outside
> edges very neatly.  You can also use wire, but unless you are very skilled,
> it is hard to keep it exactly in the center of your outer edge.  I have made
> this piece and did not reinforce it, but you could also use the flex-braid
> inside around the bevel edges.  Hope that helps!
> Joyce Moran

I am a bit of a newbie and haven't heard of this flex-braid stuff.  Could
you give a little more detail and where you got it?

Thanks,
Becky
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From owner-glass Tue Mar 26 12:10:27 1996
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From: Becky Gerlach <becky_gerlach@MENTORG.COM>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Edging projects 
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 96 10:36:54 PST
Message-ID: <9603261836.AA23383@glass>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Your message dated: Tue, 26 Mar 96 12:23:42 EST
> I have discovered a product called Flex-braid that finished the outside
> edges very neatly.  You can also use wire, but unless you are very skilled,
> it is hard to keep it exactly in the center of your outer edge.  I have made
> this piece and did not reinforce it, but you could also use the flex-braid
> inside around the bevel edges.  Hope that helps!
> Joyce Moran

I am a bit of a newbie and haven't heard of this flex-braid stuff.  Could
you give a little more detail and where you got it?

Thanks,
Becky
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From owner-glass Tue Mar 26 12:15:58 1996
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From: GlassTrphy@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Setting up Shop
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 1996 15:14:00 -0500
Message-ID: <1996Mar26.10140.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

It's hard to make a living selling Stained glass supplies and materials.
 I've been involved in the glass industry for about 15 years and have been
set up as a business, Subchapter S corporation for about 5 years.  If I
wasn't retired and getting a pension from another job it would be very
difficult to make a decent living

Dusty

Brass & Glass Illusions, Inc.
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From owner-glass Tue Mar 26 12:21:30 1996
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From: GlassTrphy@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: zinc came
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 1996 15:19:05 -0500
Message-ID: <1996Mar26.10195.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I know what you are talking about.  I've read that the zinc should go all the
waydown  vertical and the horizontal pieces fit in between.  You are right,
something to do with the strength.  However, I've been building stained glass
windows for years and found it doesn't really make any difference as long as
the window isn't very heavy and you are carefull when standing it up against
the wall or whatever before you mount it permanently.

Dusty
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From owner-glass Tue Mar 26 12:59:06 1996
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From: IstGlass@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Ringstar, Ringstar, Ringstar
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 1996 15:55:48 -0500
Message-ID: <1996Mar26.105548.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

This may be old news but I have a pair of those ringstar pliers and they are
fantastic!  I make the faries from Jillian Sawyers fairy book and I was
breaking about 75% of the curvey little wing frills and was getting very
frustrated.  But with the ringstar pliers you can reach right into those deep
cuts and release the pressure at that point and anywhere else along your
score.  The top part of the pliers is a circle and the part under the glass
is a point like a pencil point.  It puts pressure evenly around a point
instead of just to the left and right of it.


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From owner-glass Tue Mar 26 13:23:19 1996
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From: "Andrea King" <andreaking@swin.edu.au>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: zinc came
Summary: Authenticated sender is <andreaking@gpo.swin.edu.au>
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 08:21:32 +0000
Message-ID: <199603262121.AA19790@lucy.swin.edu.au>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Swinburne University
Precedence: bulk

> Something to do w/ the strength of the zinc frame.  Does this make sense?
> If I could draw a picture it would help but I'm a newbie and darn glad I'm
> able to email and download. Anybody understand? thanks, lorley

Lorley,

Yes your memory serves you well.  Wherever possible full length 
pieces of came should run vertically with horizontal pieces joining them.  
Again you are correct, for strength.  Don't forget to stretch the 
came before you use it as it also adds strength.

Andrea
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From owner-glass Tue Mar 26 13:25:01 1996
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	id m0u1gDD-0000hRa; Tue, 26 Mar 96 13:23 PST
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From: "Lorley L. Oneyear" <lorley@netzone.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Dumb Computer
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 1996 14:04:20 -0700
Message-ID: <199603262104.OAA23510@nz1.netzone.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Sorry gang, I was trying to send a msg asking a question and when I went to
send it my e-mail couldn't access the network.  So I re-sent it, and re-sent
it, and   well you get the idea.  I don't think the actual msg took until
this am.  My apologies. Like Howard, learning the computer a byte at a time.
Lorley from Arizona.

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From owner-glass Tue Mar 26 13:58:03 1996
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From: Becky Gerlach <becky_gerlach@MENTORG.COM>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Stepping Stones 
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 96 13:56:33 PST
Message-ID: <9603262156.AA23806@glass>
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Your message dated: Sat, 23 Mar 96 16:57:15 EST
> To Janet Neaves:  Re Vicki Payne Stepping Stone Method.
> 
> Hi Janet:  I have not tried the stones themselves.  I have, however, covered
> some terra cotta pots with this method, which I used as containers for
> Christmas baskets.  I used GE Silicone glue and regular tile grout with sand
> mix and then a grout sealer.  So far so good (I kept 2 which I use in my
> bathrooms for soaps, etc.).  I'm thinking of trying a stone this spring, so I
> too would be interested if anyone has tried them and used them in the garden.

Were you able to find grout that matched the terra cotta color?  I can't
picture regular grey grout on orange-y terra cotta.  Am I missing something?

Thanks,
Becky
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From owner-glass Tue Mar 26 14:30:41 1996
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From: bad@airmail.net (Beckie Decker)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Anyone from San Jose?
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 96 16:29:01 -0600 (CST)
Message-ID: <m0u1hEZ-000EwRC@airmail.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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Hi All, 

Anyone from San Jose or surrounding area on the list?  I just had a visitor
to my web site, asking if I knew of a shop in San Jose that repairs church
glass.  Since I'm in Texas, I don't.  I thought of ya'll.  Let me know and
I'll pass the word.

Thanks,

Beckie

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From owner-glass Tue Mar 26 14:39:21 1996
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	id m0u1hN3-000169a; Tue, 26 Mar 96 14:37 PST
X-Path: pilot.msu.edu!rosochac
From: "Lisa Anne Rosochacki" <rosochac@pilot.msu.edu>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Stepping Stones
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 1996 17:37:33 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <199603262237.RAA125952@pilot01.cl.msu.edu>
References: <<9603241826.AA03109@pipe8>>
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Hi Denise,

> I am very interested in what you are making. Can you tell me a little more
> about what you are working on. It sounds very interesting. What other types
> of crafts do you do? I really enjoy all types of crafts, especially stained
> glass, floral arranging, wreaths, cross-stitch, sewing, wood, and painting.
> I am new on the computer and it would be fun to share ideas.

Currently I'm working on finishing my Bachelors Degree and therefore I haven't
been working on much.  About all that I have been doing is a bit of sketching
of some things I might want to make come summer... other things that I like to
do...there are too many to name  :)  plus i should keep it to glass here :)

Lisa R.

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From owner-glass Tue Mar 26 14:42:11 1996
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From: "Lisa Anne Rosochacki" <rosochac@pilot.msu.edu>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: stepping stones
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 1996 17:40:35 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <199603262240.RAA131518@pilot01.cl.msu.edu>
References: <<199603241633.LAA06660@alpha.netaccess.on.ca>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk



Kathy,

>   I  could use  your expert opinion. I want to make a door stop and am
> planning to use a long narrow loaf pan.I want  the top and
> sides to be covered with my glass pattern..Is there anything I
> should do when putting the sides into the pan.Do you think they will stand
> up on their own until I get all the concrete poured in? Also, do I
> need to coat with vaseline all the way up the sides?

Using a metal loaf pan, i would highly recommend using vaseline on the inside
of the pan.  I think that if you used that then the contact paper would adhere
to the sides of the pan and thus keep your sides in place while you poured the
cement, that would be what I would do.  Let me know how it works out.  :)

Lisa R.

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From owner-glass Tue Mar 26 14:58:07 1996
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From: "Lisa Anne Rosochacki" <rosochac@pilot.msu.edu>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: stepping stones
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 1996 17:55:09 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <199603262255.RAA195335@pilot01.cl.msu.edu>
References: <<1996Mar26.4237.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk




Hi Kim,

I make the patio stones too and I have found that it's easier to not use the
topping mix on the stones.  I use Redi Mix or Quick Crete brand gravel mix
instead.  The mix is a bit rougher but there are a couple advantages to it.
First, the gravel mix eliminates the need to reinforce the stone because the
gravel is what gives the cement strength and the size of stone that you will
work with won't be so large to warrent the chicken wire reinforcement.  Second,
when you pour the cement, you won't have to have two steps to the process, it
makes it go a bit smoother.  Plus if you mix up a batch large enough for one
stone then the mix for the stone will be consistant throughout the stone.

As far as how much for a stone... I use 80# bags and can do 3 of the hex stones
from that.  When you mix the cement it shouldn't be wet or form puddles upon
standing.  If that happens the face of the stone will get crumbly and the glass
will stick out the edges eventually.  This is because when the water evaporates
it pulls up the water from the bottom of the form with it.  When the cement mix
is too wet the water moves up to the surface too fast and the capillary action
in the cement pulls up the lime and gypsum, which are what keep the cement
together and solid.  I like to make a well in the cement mix before I put it in
the form and if any water forms in that well then I know that the mix is too
wet.

Lisa R.

quote of the hour:
 "It is better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to
   speak and remove all doubt"

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From owner-glass Tue Mar 26 16:11:14 1996
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From: nq9230200-Tynan <tynan@ixcim.att.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Edging projects
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 96 12:40:22 CST
Message-ID: <9603261840.AA11604@ixcim.att.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Joyce,

Would you please expand on what "flex-braid" is?  It sounds like pre-formed
metal that you solder to the outside of a finished piece...  What does it
look like?

Thanks!
Tara

tynan@ixcim.att.com


 >I have discovered a product called Flex-braid that finished the outside
>edges very neatly.   
>Joyce Moran
 
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From owner-glass Tue Mar 26 17:59:03 1996
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X-Path: gjr
From: gjr@daver.bungi.com (Glenna Rand)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Anyone from San Jose?
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 1996 17:58:06 PST
Message-ID: <m0u1kUx-0000miC@daver.bungi.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

[In the message entitled "Anyone from San Jose?" on Mar 26, 16:29, Beckie Decker writes:]
> Hi All, 
> 
> Anyone from San Jose or surrounding area on the list?  I just had a visitor
> to my web site, asking if I knew of a shop in San Jose that repairs church
> glass.  Since I'm in Texas, I don't.  I thought of ya'll.  Let me know and
> I'll pass the word.

I'm in San Jose.  I've never done any repair work though, but know of
someone they could contact.



-- 
Glenna Rand
gjr@bungi.com
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From owner-glass Tue Mar 26 18:58:39 1996
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From: "Joseph D. Noble" <drno@mbay.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Anyone from San Jose?
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 1996 18:57:51 -0800
Message-ID: <199603270257.SAA28812@otter.mbay.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

At 04:29 PM 3/26/96 -0600, you wrote:
>Hi All, 
>
>Anyone from San Jose or surrounding area on the list?  I just had a visitor
>to my web site, asking if I knew of a shop in San Jose that repairs church
>glass.  Since I'm in Texas, I don't.  I thought of ya'll.  Let me know and
>I'll pass the word.
>
Well, there is a very nice, and probably expensive, shop in Santa Clara.  The 
name escapes me at the moment, but I found them on the Inet along with this 
site.  Just search around and you will probably find it too.  Good luck

David in Monterey
DR NO
Monterey, CA

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From owner-glass Tue Mar 26 19:00:49 1996
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From: "Joseph D. Noble" <drno@mbay.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: stepping stones
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 1996 18:59:43 -0800
Message-ID: <199603270259.SAA28857@otter.mbay.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


>>   I  could use  your expert opinion. I want to make a door stop and am
>> planning to use a long narrow loaf pan.I want  the top and
>> sides to be covered with my glass pattern..Is there anything I
>> should do when putting the sides into the pan.Do you think they will stand
>> up on their own until I get all the concrete poured in? Also, do I
>> need to coat with vaseline all the way up the sides?
>
>Using a metal loaf pan, i would highly recommend using vaseline on the inside
>of the pan.  I think that if you used that then the contact paper would adhere
>to the sides of the pan and thus keep your sides in place while you poured the
>cement, that would be what I would do.  Let me know how it works out.  :)
>

If you don't coat it then you may have loaf pan stepping stones.
DR NO
Monterey, CA

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From owner-glass Tue Mar 26 19:14:55 1996
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To: rglass-42
X-Path: direct.ca!kmccullo
From: direct.ca!kmccullo
Subject: Re: Ringstar, Ringstar, Ringstar
Date: Tue Mar 26 19:13:48 1996
Message-ID: <96Mar26.190746-0800pdt.205377-291+1328@orb.direct.ca>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Thanks for the tip on the ringstar pliers. I certainly would not have
considered purchasing them unless I knew that they were are a worthwhile
purchase. So many tools on the market these days are not worth it. For quite
some time I've been considering buy a power mitre saw as I was getting
frustrated using my dremel to cut (to try to cut) the perfect angles on zinc
or brass for my frames.
After talking to several men in the construction industry I find that not
all mitre saws are as acurate a I thought they should be. Anyway, before
X-mas I bought a standard mitre box saw for $105. Canadian, bought the metal
blade & this to me is the perfect tool. Now I don't have to rely on friends
with tools to cut my frames. Actually, it is a good tool for us women to use
because you don't need to be Hercules to use it. Also, Dremel makes a swivel
base which I've adapted for use when I make the large tiffany lamps. 

Great tip on the pliers, thanks again.

>This may be old news but I have a pair of those ringstar pliers and they are
>fantastic!  I make the faries from Jillian Sawyers fairy book and I was
>breaking about 75% of the curvey little wing frills and was getting very
>frustrated.  But with the ringstar pliers you can reach right into those deep
>cuts and release the pressure at that point and anywhere else along your
>score.  The top part of the pliers is a circle and the part under the glass
>is a point like a pencil point.  It puts pressure evenly around a point
>instead of just to the left and right of it.
>
>
>----
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>
>

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From owner-glass Tue Mar 26 23:15:42 1996
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From: rickhauf@usa.pipeline.com (rick hauf)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Gatewayed mail message
Date: Tue Mar 26 23:14:50 1996
Message-ID: <1996Mar27.204750.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hello Everyone, 
 
Have you been working on your projects tonight?  Could you please explain
the technique for making a stained glass kaleidoscope?  We are starting to
get into stained glass as a hobby. We are having good luck so far and the
soldering gets easier. 
 
Thanks alot, 
 
Denise
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From owner-glass Wed Mar 27 04:58:08 1996
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X-Path: tiac.net!glaslady
From: glaslady@tiac.net (glaslady)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Gatewayed mail message
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 07:57:25 -0500
Message-ID: <199603271257.HAA27444@mailserver2.tiac.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Denise asked:
> 
>Could you please explain
>the technique for making a stained glass kaleidoscope?  We are starting to
>get into stained glass as a hobby. We are having good luck so far and the
>soldering gets easier. 
> 

it's a bit complicated for an email message (believe me, i've tried before,
but without pictures it looses alot)

Delphi has a great 'home video" -- not up to V Payne's production level, but
true to life, on how to put together 3, including the aeroscope. I think
it's around $12 and well worth it. I've had it for several years, but assume
it's still being offered, since it was 'home grown' by them I'd suggest that
as a good starting point.

Thre are a couple of kaleidescope 'how to " stained glass books, but I fear
that the good ones are out of print. I picked up one as remaindered about 5
years ago through Stained glass workshop.

good luck
Judy in Northern MA
glaslady@tiac.net 

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From owner-glass Wed Mar 27 07:16:40 1996
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From: Pristine <Pristine@gr.cns.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: zinc came
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 11:16:54 -0800
Message-ID: <1996Mar27.31654.0>
References: <<199603262121.AA19790@lucy.swin.edu.au>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Pristine Glass Co.
Precedence: bulk

Don't forget to stretch the came before you use it as it also adds 
strength.
> 
> AndreaStrecth Zinc? :-)

-- 
    * mickey mackenzie for Pristine Glass Co.
    * <mickey> pristine@gr.cns.net * http://www.cns.net/pristine
    also
    * mickey@grfn.org * http://www.grfn.org/~mickey
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From owner-glass Wed Mar 27 07:18:32 1996
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From: Pristine <Pristine@gr.cns.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Anyone from San Jose?
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 11:18:56 -0800
Message-ID: <1996Mar27.31856.0>
References: <<m0u1hEZ-000EwRC@airmail.net>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Pristine Glass Co.
Precedence: bulk

Beckie Decker wrote:
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> Anyone from San Jose or surrounding area on the list?  I just had a visitor
> to my web site,....

Please send me your URL. I am gathering a list of sites.
-- 
    * mickey mackenzie for Pristine Glass Co.
    * <mickey> pristine@gr.cns.net * http://www.cns.net/pristine
    also
    * mickey@grfn.org * http://www.grfn.org/~mickey
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From owner-glass Wed Mar 27 07:20:57 1996
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From: Pristine <Pristine@gr.cns.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Web sites for stained glass
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 11:21:49 -0800
Message-ID: <1996Mar27.32149.0>
References: <<199603271257.HAA27444@mailserver2.tiac.net>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Pristine Glass Co.
Precedence: bulk

Please inform me of stained glass web sites. I am putting together a list 
for the following:

-- 
    * mickey mackenzie for Pristine Glass Co.
    * <mickey> pristine@gr.cns.net * http://www.cns.net/pristine
    also
    * mickey@grfn.org * http://www.grfn.org/~mickey
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From owner-glass Wed Mar 27 07:27:14 1996
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X-Path: mmac.is.lmsc.lockheed.com!rund#m#_sharen
From: "Rund, Sharen" <rund#m#_sharen@mmac.is.lmsc.lockheed.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: RE: Anyone from San Jose?
Date: 27 Mar 1996 07:21:03 U
Message-ID: <1996Mar26.23213.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

St Patrick's Church, Main St, Watsonville, CA was rebuilt following the quake
- they had someone in that did the work on their windows - that may be a
starting place
_______________________________________________________________________________
From: glass@bungi.com on Tue, Mar 26, 1996 20:11
Subject: Re: Anyone from San Jose?
To: glass@bungi.com

At 04:29 PM 3/26/96 -0600, you wrote:
>Hi All, 
>
>Anyone from San Jose or surrounding area on the list?  I just had a visitor
>to my web site, asking if I knew of a shop in San Jose that repairs church
>glass.  Since I'm in Texas, I don't.  I thought of ya'll.  Let me know and
>I'll pass the word.
>
Well, there is a very nice, and probably expensive, shop in Santa Clara.  The

name escapes me at the moment, but I found them on the Inet along with this 
site.  Just search around and you will probably find it too.  Good luck

David in Monterey
DR NO
Monterey, CA

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From owner-glass Wed Mar 27 07:31:54 1996
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	id m0u1xAh-0000lJa; Wed, 27 Mar 96 07:30 PST
X-Path: gr.cns.net!Pristine
From: Pristine <Pristine@gr.cns.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Midwest
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 11:32:50 -0800
Message-ID: <1996Mar27.33250.0>
References: <<1996Feb29.1072.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Pristine Glass Co.
Precedence: bulk

Live in the Midwest? Want classes and seminars? 
A list is available on the web for classes at The Stained Glass Place. It 
is the shop that brings you Stained Glass News. 
look for the schedule at "http://www.cns.net/pristine/sgp.html"

-- 
    * mickey mackenzie for Pristine Glass Co.
    * <mickey> pristine@gr.cns.net * http://www.cns.net/pristine
    also
    * mickey@grfn.org * http://www.grfn.org/~mickey
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From owner-glass Wed Mar 27 08:13:41 1996
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From: bad@airmail.net (Beckie Decker)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: URL for Mickey...was San Jose
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 96 10:12:20 -0600 (CST)
Message-ID: <m0u1xpa-000EzPC@airmail.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

>Beckie Decker wrote:
>> 
>> Hi All,
>> 
>> Anyone from San Jose or surrounding area on the list?  I just had a visitor
>> to my web site,....
>
>Please send me your URL. I am gathering a list of sites.
>-- 
**** mickey mackenzie, and everyone,  my URL is;

http://web2.airmail.net/~bad/sunlit.htm

Thanks!

Beckie
bad@airmail.net
http://web2.airmail.net/~bad/

             Mama to: Nate the Gentleman Hound
  @-->-->--        Myrtle the Good Dane        --<--<--@
           and the two-leggers, Laura and Sarah

The one thing I know for sure; never shave your legs when you have chill bumps.

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From owner-glass Wed Mar 27 08:26:30 1996
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X-Path: awinc.com!jthomson
From: Julie Thomson <jthomson@awinc.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Glass supply stores in Spokane?
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 08:23:56 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1996Mar27.02356.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hello, all.  I am in Rossland, BC, Canada and am planning a shopping 
excursion to Spokane, WA.  Does anyone know of any stained glass supply 
stores down there?  I am particularly interested in places with pattern 
books.  My only supply store here has an extremely limited supply of books.

Thanks for your help!

- Julie
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From owner-glass Wed Mar 27 08:30:56 1996
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To: rglass-42
X-Path: direct.ca!kmccullo
From: direct.ca!kmccullo
Subject: Re: Setting up Shop
Date: Wed Mar 27 08:29:24 1996
Message-ID: <96Mar27.082439-0800pdt.276168-5268+33@aphex.direct.ca>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I have to agree with you on this. My mentor has been in the business for 17
years and he still struggles with his business. If he didn't have a
supplement to his business I'm sure he would have starved. I have done some
craft shows (with my glass, of course) & found that although people like
stained glass they can't appreciate the time spent on design & the cost of
the product. Somehow they always seemed to purchase those what I call throw
away items. Subsequently I've taken up marketing to obtain more
understanding of the consumer.
PS. I received an award for best display at my first show,(I used some of my
other crafty abilities) from our Art Council, judges one being a known
painter and the 2nd being world known glass artist, whose wife has been
commissioned & done stained glass world wide. He shared some photographs
with me.  
Stained glass is a wonderful craft & each piece I do is a new learning
experience, but for me I would have to be self supportive myself before I
would consider it my main source.
Karin.
 

   
>It's hard to make a living selling Stained glass supplies and materials.
> I've been involved in the glass industry for about 15 years and have been
>set up as a business, Subchapter S corporation for about 5 years.  If I
>wasn't retired and getting a pension from another job it would be very
>difficult to make a decent living
>
>Dusty
>
>Brass & Glass Illusions, Inc.
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>
>

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From owner-glass Wed Mar 27 08:38:37 1996
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From: "Jennifer H. Austin" <jha.cashiers@mhs.unc.edu>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: FRAMING
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 11:34:23 -0500
Message-ID: <1996Mar27.63423.0>
References: <<E41E583101CC0060>>
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Organization: UNC
Precedence: bulk

First Time Poster Here--
I am fairly new to the stained glass thing... I have recently finished an 
11x 14 pane.  Very pretty, but some of the edges are not PERFECTLY 
straight (lots of edge pieces)  I imagine this could be solved with the 
proper framing technique.  Although I have no reference for framing at 
all.  Can someone point me in the right direction?? Thanks!
Jennifer 

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From owner-glass Wed Mar 27 10:45:46 1996
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X-Path: gjr
From: gjr@daver.bungi.com (Glenna Rand)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Anyone from San Jose?
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 10:42:55 PST
Message-ID: <m0u20BM-00002wC@daver.bungi.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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[In the message entitled "Re: Anyone from San Jose?" on Mar 27, 11:18, Pristine writes:]
> > Anyone from San Jose or surrounding area on the list?  I just had a visitor
> > to my web site,....
> 
> Please send me your URL. I am gathering a list of sites.
> -- 
>     * mickey mackenzie for Pristine Glass Co.
>     * <mickey> pristine@gr.cns.net * http://www.cns.net/pristine
>     also
>     * mickey@grfn.org * http://www.grfn.org/~mickey


Mine is http://www.bungi.com/glass


-- 
Glenna Rand
gjr@bungi.com
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From owner-glass Wed Mar 27 13:20:51 1996
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From: "Andrea King" <andreaking@swin.edu.au>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: zinc came
Summary: Authenticated sender is <andreaking@gpo.swin.edu.au>
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 1996 08:19:47 +0000
Message-ID: <199603272119.AA22688@lucy.swin.edu.au>
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> > AndreaStrecth Zinc? :-)
> 

Well that will teach me not to read my mail properly. I printed my 
email and took home last night to read at my leisure (I get about 
50-60 a day)  and when I re-read Lorley's post...... well it's a bit like 
foot-in-mouth!!!!  I have had such a busy couple of days
with oodles of email and sent off my reply with LEAD came
on my mind, (as if Zinc needs stength!).  Anyway sori for the 
mis-information.

I have a question now.  Can anyone give me hints on what they do when 
grinding very tiny pieces of glass.  I do a lot of projects that call 
for very small pieces and am always grinding my fingernails off.....  
I have seen in a catalogue from US a tool called 'grinder tongs' to hold
the small piece of glass when grinding and want to know if anyone 
knows if they are any  good or do any of you have any other hints/tips.

Andrea
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From owner-glass Wed Mar 27 13:44:00 1996
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X-Path: mail.gardencitynet.co.uk!kris
From: "Kris" <kris@gardencitynet.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Web sites for stained glass
Summary: Authenticated sender is <kris@mail.gardencitynet.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 21:38:28 +0000
Message-ID: <199603272148.VAA05209@linux.nildram.co.uk>
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> From:          Pristine <Pristine@gr.cns.net>
> Please inform me of stained glass web sites. I am putting together a list 

I'm jumping the gun slightly but my Web site is starting to come 
together - at least it was at 5am today.  :-)
 
My commissioned glass panels get fitted to the door tomorrow. 
I've promised the artist that the North Lights Web pages will be 
launched by the time the panels are fitted!
So, while the fitting is in progress I'll be frantically editing photo's into 
the placeholders on the Web pages. Real 'hold the front page' stuff!

Step carefully over all the scaffolding. This is the URL 
of Kris's Gallery of Wood and Glass - which currently features the 
stained glass of North Lights. 

http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris

Feedback appreciated - especially any viewing problems.   Kris
--
email: kris@gardencitynet.co.uk
"Everything in life is transient; including life itself"
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From owner-glass Wed Mar 27 14:10:09 1996
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X-Path: gjr
From: gjr@daver.bungi.com (Glenna Rand)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: zinc came
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 14:08:37 PST
Message-ID: <m0u23OQ-0000rxC@daver.bungi.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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> 
> I have a question now.  Can anyone give me hints on what they do when 
> grinding very tiny pieces of glass.  I do a lot of projects that call 
> for very small pieces and am always grinding my fingernails off.....  

Well what I usually do is tape my fingertips (thumb and index finger)
with surgical tape.  The kind you get after you get a blood test done.
I put tape in 2 different directions and then trim off any edges.
Saves on the skin and makes the whole grinding experience much more
pleasurable.


-- 
Glenna Rand
gjr@bungi.com
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From owner-glass Wed Mar 27 14:21:14 1996
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From: izzy3@ix.netcom.com (Michael Smoucha )
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: zinc came
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 14:18:40 -0800
Message-ID: <199603272218.OAA12114@dfw-ix8.ix.netcom.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

You wrote: 
>

>
>Yes your memory serves you well.  Wherever possible full length 
>pieces of came should run vertically with horizontal pieces joining 
them.  
>Again you are correct, for strength.  Don't forget to stretch the 
>came before you use it as it also adds strength.
>
You can not stretch zinc, so don't try.
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From owner-glass Wed Mar 27 14:27:47 1996
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X-Path: mail.utexas.edu!kgbryant
From: kgbryant@mail.utexas.edu (Kelly Bryant)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Grinder tongs
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 16:25:22 -0600
Message-ID: <v0153051aad7f1c40a9fa@[128.83.166.106]>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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>I have seen in a catalogue from US a tool called 'grinder tongs' to hold
>the small piece of glass when grinding and want to know if anyone
>knows if they are any  good or do any of you have any other hints/tips.

I have used these grinder tongs and they work pretty well.  There are still
some pieces that are too small for the tongs to hold right, but I got
pretty good results (although I still managed to ruin my finger nails.
Kelly



===================================================================
Kelly Bryant
Placement Coordinator
Department of Geological Sciences
The University of Texas at Austin

(512)471-4486
(512)471-9425 FAX
kgbryant@mail.utexas.edu
===================================================================


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From owner-glass Wed Mar 27 15:40:27 1996
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X-Path: eos.ncsu.edu!jbbrauer
From: "James Bartley Brauer" <jbbrauer@eos.ncsu.edu>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Gatewayed mail message - kaleidoscope
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 18:39:00 -0500
Message-ID: <9603271839.ZM29594@eos.ncsu.edu>
References: <<1996Mar27.204750.0>>
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On Mar 26, 11:14pm, rick hauf wrote:
> Subject: Gatewayed mail message
> Hello Everyone,
>
> Have you been working on your projects tonight?  Could you please explain
> the technique for making a stained glass kaleidoscope?  We are starting to
> get into stained glass as a hobby. We are having good luck so far and the
> soldering gets easier.
>
> Thanks alot,
>
> Denise

I made several kaleidoscopes recently and would be glad to share the procedure
followed.  I did this without any sort of instruction, so any comments about
improving my technique would be appreicated.  Here is what I did:

1- From the hardware store get 1 square foot mirror glass squares, copper pipe,
a 2 inch copper sleve which slides over the end of the pipe, and a fender
washer.  More on the coupling and fender washers later.

2- Using a hack-saw, the pipe is cut into about 8 inch lengths.  If the pipe is
cut too long, not as much light shows through.  This can cause the kaleidoscope
to be kind of dim inside.

3- The glass is cut into strips just wide enough to form a triangle, which will
fit inside the copper pipe.  After cleaning the strips the long edges are
foiled.  The foil is placed so that none of it overlaps the front of the mirror
glass.  The foil is then brushed with flux and a light coat of solder is
applied.  The strips may need another cleaning after soldering.

4- The strips are held toghether in a triangle with tape and/or rubber bands
temporarily.  A bead of solder is formed between each of the strips, to hold
them together.  Be careful not to get solder inside the triangle.  Also watch
not to let flux get hot and run onto the mirror glass.  Anything on the mirror
part of the glass will reduce the clarity of what is seen when looking inside
the kaleidoscope.

5- After it has cooled, brush flux on the solder part of the triangle.  Slide
it inside the copper pipe.  Try to build up the solder enough that it is just
touching the inside of the pipe.  Using a propane torch heat the outside of the
pipe so that the solder melts, and bonds to the pipe.  If the pipe gets too hot
the glass will break.  It is also possible to glue the glass triangle inside
the pipe.

6- To make the eyepiece, solder a fender washer on the end of the pipe.  A
smaller washer can be soldered inside the fender washer if the hole is too big.
 A copper pipe cap, with a hole drilled as an eyepiece, can also be used.

7- To make the end of the kaleidoscope which is turned, use the copper pipe
coupling.  Glass disks may be cut, foiled, and soldered inside the coupling.
 Put a colorful medium between the two glass disks.  Glass beads or buttons
have worked for me.  The coupling should have dimples on the inside, to prevent
it from sliding over the pipe.  The glass disks go on only one side of the
dimples.  The other side is slid over the pipe.
ALTERNATE METHOD:  If cutting 1 inch glass disks, and soldering them inside a
pipe is not your thing, there is another way:  Heat the coupling with a
blowtorch and press it on a clear cassette tape cover, or similar clear
plastic.  (This is an outdoor job, it smells)  Use the disks you have melted in
place of glass in the turn-piece.  They can be glued in.  One drawback of this
method is the plastic can be scratched by your colored medium, with repeated
use.


If I can elaborate on, or clear up any points, please let me know.

James Brauer
Raleigh, NC, USA

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From owner-glass Wed Mar 27 16:24:39 1996
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X-Path: prodigy.com!USNL90A
From: USNL90A@prodigy.com (MR RON D VANWINKLE)
To: glass@Daver.bungi.com
Subject: grinder tongs
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 19:16:13 EST
Message-ID: <013.04562620.USNL90A@prodigy.com>
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When I grind (large or small pieces) I wear rubber fingers from 
office products stores

Kathy Van Winkle

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From owner-glass Wed Mar 27 21:15:28 1996
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From: Glas4me@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: grinder tongs
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 1996 00:11:37 -0500
Message-ID: <1996Mar27.191137.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Wow that's a great idea using "rubber fingers".  I never liked the little
grinder tongs.  Thanks for the terrific tip!  My bill-paying job being an
office secretary...I have some laying around and can't wait to try them!

Debby
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From owner-glass Wed Mar 27 21:15:31 1996
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From: Glas4me@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Grinder tongs
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 1996 00:11:08 -0500
Message-ID: <1996Mar27.19118.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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Regarding all this talk of grinding fingernails...which I also do.  JUST HOW
DOES VICKI PAYNE KEEP HER NAILS SO BEAUTIFUL????  Stand-in grinders???
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From owner-glass Wed Mar 27 22:20:50 1996
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X-Path: swin.edu.au!andreaking
From: "Andrea King" <andreaking@swin.edu.au>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Grinding
Summary: Authenticated sender is <andreaking@gpo.swin.edu.au>
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 1996 16:18:42 +0000
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Thanks everyone for your ideas and I certainly will try them.  I'm 
not so concerned about the fingernails but I'll try anything that saves the ends 
of my fingers (they do get rather tender after a while).

Kathy, are rubber fingers the things you use when counting paper?

Bye for now

Andrea
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From owner-glass Thu Mar 28 02:56:39 1996
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From: "Kathy Chivers" <tchivers@alpha.netaccess.on.ca>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject:       Vicki Payne videos
Date:          Thu, 28 Mar 1996 05:55:09 +0000
Message-ID: <199603281056.FAA25575@alpha.netaccess.on.ca>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


>DOES VICKI PAYNE KEEP HER NAILS SO BEAUTIFUL???? 

I have never watched a Vicki Payne video but always wondered.I have 
only been doing glass for just less than 2 years and still need 
guidance.Are they worth while to pay ?I really want to learn lead but 
my supplier hasn't set up a class as yet.Would it be worth the 
investment to perhaps purchase the one on lead panels?Could I learn 
the fundamentals?A critique would be much appreciated.
   
   Also,in my last class a women said she used  rubber finger 
tips to  cut and grind so she wouldn't cut herself when handling the 
glass. 
    Kathy
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From owner-glass Thu Mar 28 05:38:37 1996
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From:         HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu
To:           glass@bungi.com
Subject:      Grinding glass (was Re: zinc came
Date:         Thu, 28 Mar 96 08:28:50 EST
Message-ID:   <960328.083519.EST.HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu>
References: <<199603272119.AA22688@lucy.swin.edu.au>>
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Precedence: bulk

As we all know, the mark of a true stained glass artist is the the little
half moons ground out of the fingernails (which is why I wonder about
Ms Payne...maybe she has someone to grind for her or uses stick ons!)
(Here I was making a glass shopping list for this weekend and the snow
gods are about to unload again.  I think I'll just work with  what I
already have!  ...need blue, though...)

**UConn's women HUskies in the Final Four this weekend!**

--
Dorothy Kalahan, Interlibrary Loan  (860) 679-2940  FAX (860) 679-4046
UCONN Health Center Library, POB 4003, Farmington CT 06034-4003
HCLADM02@UConnVM.uconn.edu
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From owner-glass Thu Mar 28 05:46:03 1996
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X-Path: YaleVM.CIS.Yale.Edu!UCONNVM.UCONN.EDU!HCLADM02
From:         HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu
To:           glass@bungi.com
Subject:      Re: grinder tongs
Date:         Thu, 28 Mar 96 08:41:44 EST
Message-ID:   <960328.084239.EST.HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu>
References: <<1996Mar27.191137.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I tried the rubber fingers years ago...used to grind through them, too,
and the glass would slip from the grip...(Call me Ms Coordination)

--
Dorothy Kalahan, Interlibrary Loan  (860) 679-2940  FAX (860) 679-4046
UCONN Health Center Library, POB 4003, Farmington CT 06034-4003
HCLADM02@UConnVM.uconn.edu
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From owner-glass Thu Mar 28 07:28:34 1996
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X-Path: wc1.wc.edu!warren
From: Alan Warren <warren>
To: 'Glass' <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Door Window
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 1996 09:24:57 -0600
Message-ID: <1996Mar28.32457.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I am making a standard diamond shape door window for my parents. The 
daylight opening is 7-1/8 by 7-1/8. The original glass piece measures 8x8. 
The trim is routered for an 8x8 3/32 window glass.

My question:  has anyone done a panel for this type of door window? How 
should I design the panel; should I just do a 7-1/8 panel and mount it in 
the daylight opening or make a complete 8x8 panel (I'll have to route the 
trim if I do this). What about having a 7/16 border of 3/32 window pane 
around the 1/8 stained glass part of the panel?

Thanks
Alan Warren
warren@wc1.wc.edu
A totaly addicted stained glass rookie


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From owner-glass Thu Mar 28 14:04:29 1996
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From: izzy3@ix.netcom.com (Michael Smoucha )
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Door Window
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 1996 14:02:36 -0800
Message-ID: <199603282202.OAA29449@ix2.ix.netcom.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

You wrote: 
>
>
>
>My question:  has anyone done a panel for this type of door window? 
How 
>should I design the panel; should I just do a 7-1/8 panel and mount it 
in 
>the daylight opening or make a complete 8x8 panel (I'll have to route 
the 
>trim if I do this). What about having a 7/16 border of 3/32 window 
pane 
>around the 1/8 stained glass part of the panel?
>

Your best bet is to trim the moldings to fit the thickness of the art 
glass. The thickness of the glass is not the issue. It is the thickness 
of the border lead or zinc. Overall you should have a minimum of 1/2 on 
a door light assuming a 1/8 " foam setting tape on both sides to take 
up the extra room. ( The tape compresses. ) For a door this size you 
can get away without rebar, but anything much larger, especialy in a 
door should have rebar run properly then notched into the moldings.

A daylight installation on a piece so small will eat into the remaining 
d.l. and a proper installation in a door would require stops in any 
case requiring you to run moldings in any case.


good luck

ms
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From owner-glass Thu Mar 28 14:37:21 1996
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X-Path: gr.cns.net!Pristine
From: Pristine <Pristine@gr.cns.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Door Window
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 1996 17:36:18 -0800
Message-ID: <1996Mar28.93618.0>
References: <<1996Mar28.32457.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Pristine Glass Co.
Precedence: bulk

Alan Warren wrote:
> My question:  has anyone done a panel for this type of door window? How
> should I design the panel; should I just do a 7-1/8 panel and mount it 
> in the daylight opening or make a complete 8x8 panel (I'll have to 
> route the trim if I do this).

It would be common to cut down or replace the molding (trim).



What about having a 7/16 border of 3/32 window pane
> around the 1/8 stained glass part of the panel?

pain in the butt and the solder would be thicker anyway.
> 
> Thanks
> Alan Warren
> warren@wc1.wc.edu
> A totaly addicted stained glass rookie
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

-- 
    * mickey mackenzie for Pristine Glass Co.
    * <mickey> pristine@gr.cns.net * http://www.cns.net/pristine
    also
    * mickey@grfn.org * http://www.grfn.org/~mickey
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From owner-glass Fri Mar 29 05:18:43 1996
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X-Path: ibm.net!Gordon.Newell
From: Gordon.Newell@ibm.net
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Grinder tongs (Vicki Paynes Nails)
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 96 13:09:39
Message-ID: <199603291315.NAA125517@smtp-gw01.ny.us.ibm.net>
References: <<1996Mar27.19118.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

In <1996Mar27.19118.0>, on 03/28/96 at 12:11 AM,
   Glas4me@aol.com said:

>Regarding all this talk of grinding fingernails...which I also do.  JUST
>HOW DOES VICKI PAYNE KEEP HER NAILS SO BEAUTIFUL????  Stand-in
>grinders???

She copper foils them on :) Sorry!

~'-._.-'~'-._.-'~'-._.-'~'-._.-'~'-._.-'~'-._.-'~'-._.-'~'-._.-'~'-._.-'~'-._.-'-._.-'~
Gordon Newell, Chalcot Micro Systems
Telephone: +61 3 9708 0134, Fax: +61 3 9221 3958, Mobile: 041 111 6636 
OS/2 is D.E.A.D (Definitely Efficient And Durable)                               
 ~'-._.-'~'-._.-'~'-._.-'~'-._.-'~'-._.-'~'-._.-'~'-._.-'~'-._.-'~'-._.-'~'-._.-'-._.-'~

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From owner-glass Fri Mar 29 05:19:18 1996
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X-Path: ibm.net!Gordon.Newell
From: Gordon.Newell@ibm.net
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Vicki Payne videos
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 96 13:11:13
Message-ID: <199603291315.NAA56348@smtp-gw01.ny.us.ibm.net>
References: <<199603281056.FAA25575@alpha.netaccess.on.ca>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

In <199603281056.FAA25575@alpha.netaccess.on.ca>, on 03/28/96 at 05:55 AM,
   "Kathy Chivers" <tchivers@alpha.netaccess.on.ca> said:


>>DOES VICKI PAYNE KEEP HER NAILS SO BEAUTIFUL???? 

>I have never watched a Vicki Payne video but always wondered.I have  only
>been doing glass for just less than 2 years and still need  guidance.

I have rented a couple of her videos and found them most informative and
useful.

~'-._.-'~'-._.-'~'-._.-'~'-._.-'~'-._.-'~'-._.-'~'-._.-'~'-._.-'~'-._.-'~'-._.-'-._.-'~
Gordon Newell, Chalcot Micro Systems
Telephone: +61 3 9708 0134, Fax: +61 3 9221 3958, Mobile: 041 111 6636 
OS/2 is D.E.A.D (Definitely Efficient And Durable)                               
 ~'-._.-'~'-._.-'~'-._.-'~'-._.-'~'-._.-'~'-._.-'~'-._.-'~'-._.-'~'-._.-'~'-._.-'-._.-'~

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From owner-glass Fri Mar 29 05:29:11 1996
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X-Path: aol.com!GlassTrphy
From: GlassTrphy@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Vitreous Painting on Glass
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 1996 08:27:15 -0500
Message-ID: <1996Mar29.32715.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hope somebody out there can help me out.
I'd like to try my hand at painting on glass.  I've read a couple of books
(published awhile back) and I've even seen a video on the subject, but
nothing beats first hand knowlege and information.
I was wondering what the best type of kiln would be for doing this.  Top
loading (or) front loading...gas or electric.   I'd only be using the kiln
for this purpose and maybe a little slumping.  Anyone by chance ever use a
"rampmaster" with the kiln?
Any information and do's and do nots would be welcome.

Dusty   
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From owner-glass Fri Mar 29 05:31:24 1996
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From: SGNinfo@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Glass supply stores in Spokane?
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 1996 08:30:04 -0500
Message-ID: <1996Mar29.3304.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Julie Thomson asked:
>I am in Rossland, BC, Canada and am planning a shopping
>excursion to Spokane, WA.  Does anyone know of any stained
>glass supply stores down there?

Here's a couple:

K & G Stained Glass
1013 E Olympic Ave
Spokane, WA  99207        509/489-2443

Gallery of Glass
E 9405 Sprague
Spokane, WA  99206        509/924-8560


Have fun exploring!

Scott
Stained Glass News
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From owner-glass Fri Mar 29 09:59:04 1996
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X-Path: macnet.com!jhendershott
From: jhendershott@macnet.com (Janie Hendershott)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Vitreous Painting on Glass
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 1996 09:51:29 -0800
Message-ID: <199603291751.JAA25609@jack.macnet.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Dusty,
You need to decide what size glass you will be firing. I have a 21" kiln and
do a lot of slumping and fusing. My instructor recommends a top loader
because of more even heating, she says all doors leak somewhat and you can
get uneven heating in a front loader. The doors tend to warp over time.
My kiln also has both side and top elements, individually controlled. I love
my ramp master. I can program it and go about my business doing other things
instead of watching the pyrometer for hours. It does not completely relieve
watching, especially when slumping, since all glass does its own thing, ie
slumps or fuses at slightly different temps, times etc, but you don't need
to sit at the controls making sure your kiln doesn't heat too fast, or cool
too fast. My kiln is a Jen-ken with a small viewing window, that is great
when slumping, you can watch the glass without opening the kiln and stop it
exactly where you want.

Janie


>Hope somebody out there can help me out.
>I'd like to try my hand at painting on glass.  I've read a couple of books
>(published awhile back) and I've even seen a video on the subject, but
>nothing beats first hand knowlege and information.
>I was wondering what the best type of kiln would be for doing this.  Top
>loading (or) front loading...gas or electric.   I'd only be using the kiln
>for this purpose and maybe a little slumping.  Anyone by chance ever use a
>"rampmaster" with the kiln?
>Any information and do's and do nots would be welcome.
>
>Dusty   
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
>

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From owner-glass Fri Mar 29 12:02:47 1996
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X-Path: aol.com!GlassTrphy
From: GlassTrphy@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Vitreous Painting on Glass
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 1996 15:00:42 -0500
Message-ID: <1996Mar29.10042.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Thanks for the info.  What brand name is your kiln and where did you get it?
 Is it a Denver?  Did you get your rampmaster at the same time and at the
same place?  It sounds like I'll be attempting to do just about the same kind
of work that you are.

Dusty
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From owner-glass Fri Mar 29 14:08:19 1996
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X-Path: macnet.com!jhendershott
From: jhendershott@macnet.com (Janie Hendershott)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Vitreous Painting on Glass
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 1996 14:01:46 -0800
Message-ID: <199603292201.OAA01024@jack.macnet.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Dusty,
My kiln is a Jen-Ken Kiln manufactured in Lakeland Florida Their phone
number is 1-800-329-KILN. The controller is not a Rampmaster, but is the one
they offer with thier kiln. It has 55 programable segments and does a great
job. 
Janie


>Thanks for the info.  What brand name is your kiln and where did you get it?
> Is it a Denver?  Did you get your rampmaster at the same time and at the
>same place?  It sounds like I'll be attempting to do just about the same kind
>of work that you are.
>
>Dusty
>----
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>
>

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From owner-glass Fri Mar 29 14:33:01 1996
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From: stainedglass@utah-inter.net (Creative Glass - Ben Benedict)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Anyone from San Jose?
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 1996 12:10:47 -0700
Message-ID: <1996Mar29.51047.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

At 11:18 AM 3/27/96 -0800, you wrote:
>Beckie Decker wrote:
>> 
>> Hi All,
>> 
>> Anyone from San Jose or surrounding area on the list?  I just had a visitor
>> to my web site,....
>
>Please send me your URL. I am gathering a list of sites.
>-- 
>    * mickey mackenzie for Pristine Glass Co.
>    * <mickey> pristine@gr.cns.net * http://www.cns.net/pristine
>    also
>    * mickey@grfn.org * http://www.grfn.org/~mickey
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: -request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: @bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/
>

Hi Beckie!

I'm a long way from Ca, Salt Lake City, Utah in fact.  I have a stained
glass retail store and a great studio here.  I,ve been doing glass for over
20 yrs sooooo if you're putting together a list of glass folk, put me on it!

Ben Benedict
Creative Glass, Inc
57 East & 700 South
Salt Lake City, UT 84111

801-328-4088   Fax 801-328-1022

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From owner-glass Fri Mar 29 15:13:45 1996
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From: nq9230200-Tynan <tynan@ixcim.att.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Ringstar, Ringstar, Ringstar
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 96 10:51:58 CST
Message-ID: <9603291651.AA18876@ixcim.att.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi,

Is there any difference between the Ringstar pliers and the breaker button
from the Morton System?  I have the Morton one, but have not yet taken the
time to learn how to use it.  

Thanks,
Tara

tynan@ixcim.att.com


 >This may be old news but I have a pair of those ringstar pliers and they are
>fantastic!  I make the faries from Jillian Sawyers fairy book and I was
>breaking about 75% of the curvey little wing frills and was getting very
>frustrated.  But with the ringstar pliers you can reach right into those deep
>cuts and release the pressure at that point and anywhere else along your
>score.  The top part of the pliers is a circle and the part under the glass
>is a point like a pencil point.  It puts pressure evenly around a point
>instead of just to the left and right of it.
>
>
>----
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>To send to the list,      please mail to: @bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/
>
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From owner-glass Fri Mar 29 17:43:03 1996
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X-Path: idirect.com!mrum
From: mrum@idirect.com (mike & carol)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Anyone from San Jose?
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 1996 20:40:09 -0500
Message-ID: <199603300140.UAA23170@lucid.idirect.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

>Beckie Decker wrote:
>> Hi All,
>> Anyone from San Jose or surrounding area on the list?  I just had a visitor
>> to my web site,....
>Please send me your URL. I am gathering a list of sites.
>    * mickey mackenzie for Pristine Glass Co.
>    * <mickey> pristine@gr.cns.net * http://www.cns.net/pristine
>    also
>    * mickey@grfn.org * http://www.grfn.org/~mickey
Hi, this is Carol, in Mississauga, Ontario, definitely not CA, but I'm here
http://web.idirect.com/~studio
*******************************************
Mike and Carol Rumak
Mississauga, Ontario
Canada

Visit Carol's stained glass gallery at:
http://web.idirect.com/~studio
*******************************************

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From owner-glass Fri Mar 29 17:47:57 1996
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Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6)
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X-Path: idirect.com!mrum
From: mrum@idirect.com (mike & carol)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: FRAMING
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 1996 20:44:14 -0500
Message-ID: <199603300144.UAA23741@lucid.idirect.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

>First Time Poster Here--
>I am fairly new to the stained glass thing... I have recently finished an 
>11x 14 pane.  Very pretty, but some of the edges are not PERFECTLY 
>straight (lots of edge pieces)  I imagine this could be solved with the 
>proper framing technique.  Although I have no reference for framing at 
>all.  Can someone point me in the right direction?? Thanks!
>Jennifer 
Hi, this is Carol
You could build it up using solder, or try framing with a came.
Or put it in a wood frame.
What is proper depends on the piece and what youwant
it to look like.
Good luck
*******************************************
Mike and Carol Rumak
Mississauga, Ontario
Canada

Visit Carol's stained glass gallery at:
http://web.idirect.com/~studio
*******************************************

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From owner-glass Fri Mar 29 18:03:26 1996
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X-Path: aol.com!IstGlass
From: IstGlass@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Ringstar, Ringstar, Ringstar
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 1996 20:06:09 -0500
Message-ID: <1996Mar29.1569.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I cannot for the life of me figure out from the pictures how that breaker
button from Morton works.  And I've never seen one so I don't know.
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From owner-glass Fri Mar 29 19:36:45 1996
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From: mruv@baldcom.net
To: glass@bungi.com, glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: FRAMING
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 96 19:35 PST
Message-ID: <m0u2rRi-0000HxC@daver.bungi.com>
References: <<199603300144.UAA23741@lucid.idirect.com>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hello!  My name is Maria and I have been doing stained glass for about two years 
.I just finished a panel which was very lovely.  I put it in an oak frame and 
have it hanging in my front window.  I'm working on my front doors and using 
beveled glass.

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From owner-glass Sat Mar 30 05:49:01 1996
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From: michaelh@netline.net (Michael Hinckley)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Vitreous Painting on Glass
Date: Sat, 30 Mar 1996 08:44:08 -0500
Message-ID: <199603301344.IAA09450@tesla.netline.net>
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>Dusty,
>My kiln is a Jen-Ken Kiln manufactured in Lakeland Florida Their phone
>number is 1-800-329-KILN. The controller is not a Rampmaster, but is the one
>they offer with thier kiln. It has 55 programable segments and does a great
>job. 
>Janie


Hello Janie,

We've go the same model kiln from Jen-Ken, and we love it. It's easy to use.
If anyone is considering one, I strongly recommend the "viewport" - it makes
observing the progress of a slump a lot easier.

What kind of glass do you use for fusing? We've been using Spectrum and
sometimes float. With Spectrum we get a 'dimpling' when we fuse two blanks
and a pattern. Has this happened to you?

Mike

PS  Janie, I think you posted a message on the Glass Crafts Web site about
enamal and float. I haven't tried that yet. I've been experimenting with
plaster/cement molds. There's too many things to learn and not enough time!

M

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From owner-glass Sat Mar 30 10:28:12 1996
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From: jhendershott@macnet.com (Janie Hendershott)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Vitreous Painting on Glass
Date: Sat, 30 Mar 1996 10:20:40 -0800
Message-ID: <199603301820.KAA07055@jack.macnet.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


>What kind of glass do you use for fusing? We've been using Spectrum and
>sometimes float. With Spectrum we get a 'dimpling' when we fuse two blanks
>and a pattern. Has this happened to you?
>
>Mike

The more I fire glass, the more I use the more I use Bullseye and Uroboros.
I have used Spectrum with success, try boroque over a floral former its
great. And for general slumping, most any glass will work, however, If your
fusing, or having divitrification (SP) problems, Bullseye & Uroboros are
much easier. I find I get much more consistant results, without having to
test everything. Be careful when buying Uroboros, it is tested but has two
tested COE 90 and 96. These are not mixable. Uroboros coe 90 is compatible
with Bullseye, and the 96 is closer to Spectrum. So watch the yellow or
purple coe stickers on Uroboros. I don't try to fuse Spectrum pieces
together at all.
Their tested glass does not seem to be as consistent (IMO)and you need to do
your own tests on all the glass in each project. I have had some pretty
amazing results just slumping Armstrong and Kokomo, not ones that I want to
repeat. I seldom use Spray A on my projects. Just stay in the
Divitrification zone a little time as possible! about 1350-1450 deg. By the
way, Boyce Lundstrom's book 2 has an excellent section on enamels and lusters.
Janie

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From owner-glass Sat Mar 30 15:22:34 1996
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To: rglass-42
X-Path: direct.ca!kmccullo
From: direct.ca!kmccullo
Subject: Re: Gatewayed mail message
Date: Sat Mar 30 15:21:53 1996
Message-ID: <96Mar30.151550-0800pdt.278526-7042+483@aphex.direct.ca>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I received a stained glass kaleidiscope from my son for x-mas and it really
neat. I had never seen one before.What have you been using for the color
wheels ?
Also Denise, I have tried twice to send you some e-mail, but it keeps
comming back. Obviously, I'm doing something wrong, but what I don't know. 
Karin
>Denise asked:
>> 
>>Could you please explain
>>the technique for making a stained glass kaleidoscope?  We are starting to
>>get into stained glass as a hobby. We are having good luck so far and the
>>soldering gets easier. 
>> 
>
>it's a bit complicated for an email message (believe me, i've tried before,
>but without pictures it looses alot)
>
>Delphi has a great 'home video" -- not up to V Payne's production level, but
>true to life, on how to put together 3, including the aeroscope. I think
>it's around $12 and well worth it. I've had it for several years, but assume
>it's still being offered, since it was 'home grown' by them I'd suggest that
>as a good starting point.
>
>Thre are a couple of kaleidescope 'how to " stained glass books, but I fear
>that the good ones are out of print. I picked up one as remaindered about 5
>years ago through Stained glass workshop.
>
>good luck
>Judy in Northern MA
>glaslady@tiac.net 
>
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>
>

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From owner-glass Sat Mar 30 15:38:43 1996
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To: rglass-42
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From: direct.ca!kmccullo
Subject: Re: zinc came
Date: Sat Mar 30 15:37:39 1996
Message-ID: <96Mar30.153234-0800pdt.205328-6722+397@orb.direct.ca>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I use the grinder thongs all the time, but they do need some getting use to,
like anything else. Before that I used the cheap, cheap bandaid, when I
finished my grinding thier in the garbage. Sometimes I would even go thru
several. I've even tried old ladies gloves from the second hand store. The
fashion gloves that you can get in a zillion colors. But these get cut thru
eventualy to. Try, the grinder thongs, as I say they may feel a bit odd at
first, but sure save your fingers.
Karin  
>> 
>> I have a question now.  Can anyone give me hints on what they do when 
>> grinding very tiny pieces of glass.  I do a lot of projects that call 
>> for very small pieces and am always grinding my fingernails off.....  
>
>Well what I usually do is tape my fingertips (thumb and index finger)
>with surgical tape.  The kind you get after you get a blood test done.
>I put tape in 2 different directions and then trim off any edges.
>Saves on the skin and makes the whole grinding experience much more
>pleasurable.
>
>
>-- 
>Glenna Rand
>gjr@bungi.com
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>
>

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From owner-glass Sat Mar 30 16:21:50 1996
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From: jairoldi@mail.badgerdial.net (Northern Waters Library Service)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Vicki Payne videos
Date: Sat, 30 Mar 1996 18:20:45 -0600
Message-ID: <199603310020.SAA20343@gomer.wiscnet.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I work in a reference library and know that there are libraries which own 
videos by Vicki Payne and other stained glass artists. All you have to do is 
go to your local library and request a specific video or videos on the 
subject of stained glass. Your library can then pass this request on to 
their system library or reference library who will find a library owning the 
video you want. Beware, some libraries will not loan out their videos, but 
it is worth a try.

I have a question.  Has anyone put their stained glass patio blocks out in 
the winter conditions of north Wisconsin on Lake Superior? I would like to 
make some but will not if I know ahead of time that they will not hold up to 
30 below weather conditions. If no one has had this opportunity I will try it. 
Sharon

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From owner-glass Sat Mar 30 18:27:51 1996
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X-Path: mail.gardencitynet.co.uk!kris
From: "Kris" <kris@gardencitynet.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com, cathe.ray@Eng.Sun.COM
Subject: Kris's Peacock is online
Summary: Authenticated sender is <kris@mail.gardencitynet.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 1996 02:21:48 +0000
Message-ID: <199603310234.CAA03957@linux.nildram.co.uk>
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Hi All!
            02:15 (or 01:15, as the clocks went back a few minutes 
ago)  another late night - I'm getting too old for this sort of 
thing. Still who says you can't teach old dogs new tricks. The 'under 
construction' signs are down, the floor is swept and there shouldn't 
be too many holes in the merchandise.

The peacock is in place on my front door and in cyberspace. The 
artist has negotiated 'visiting rights' to both to make sure I treat 
it with the right amount of respect.

http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris

...only just made it - my brand new video-grabber decided to die 
today, so the one missing picture (the Best of Show plaque) will 
have to wait a while; also the other showcases planned for the gallery.
                              time to sleep...to dream of cyberspace.    Kris
 
--
email: kris@gardencitynet.co.uk
"Everything in life is transient; including life itself"
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From owner-glass Sat Mar 30 19:24:55 1996
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From: Gary Karlin <phrog@inetdirect.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Water-proof?
Date: Sat, 30 Mar 1996 22:28:35 -0500
Message-ID: <9603310328.AA19729@corb>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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Need help/advice on doing water-proof projects such as vases, terrariums
etc.  Is there a preferred foil thickness/width/brand?  My projects always
seem to develop leaks around the seams.  I have tried Liquid Nails'
adhesive and another product they make called Liquid Seal.  Both dry
crystal clear but are difficult to clean up.  Would a clear silicone caulk be
better?  Most of the clear caulks I have seen are very visible.  Unacceptable.

Suggestions?

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From owner-glass Sat Mar 30 19:24:57 1996
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From: Gary Karlin <phrog@inetdirect.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: waterproof?
Date: Sat, 30 Mar 1996 22:28:38 -0500
Message-ID: <9603310328.AB19729@corb>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Need help/advice on doing water-proof projects such as vases, terrariums
etc.  Is there a preferred foil thickness/width/brand?  My projects always
seem to develop leaks around the seams.  I have tried Liquid Nails'
adhesive and another product they make called Liquid Seal.  Both dry
crystal clear but are difficult to clean up.  Would a clear silicone caulk be
better?  Most of the clear caulks I have seen are very visible.  Unacceptable.

Suggestions?

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From owner-glass Sun Mar 31 03:20:13 1996
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From: 1091@nethawk.com (Sue Eiszler)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: patio blocks & rotten winters
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 1996 06:04:59 -0500
Message-ID: <v01530500ad8415ec719c@[206.97.200.75]>
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>I have a question.  Has anyone put their stained glass patio blocks out in
>the winter conditions of north Wisconsin on Lake Superior? I would like to
>make some but will not if I know ahead of time that they will not hold up to
>30 below weather conditions. If no one has had this opportunity I will try it.

        I live in mid-MI and the snow/ice/temperature have not done in my
smaller blocks.  I haven't made any really large ones (like the octagon
mold you can purchase) so can't tell you if our extreme cold would crack
something larger even if it is reinforced.  We consistently get -20 and
lots of snow and occasionally get -30 without the windchill.

Sue
1091@nethawk.com





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From owner-glass Sun Mar 31 05:11:50 1996
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From: glaslady@tiac.net (glaslady)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: irish yummies
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 1996 08:09:57 -0500
Message-ID: <199603311309.IAA00609@mailserver2.tiac.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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did an irish restaurant in cambridge yesterday  & stoll along newburry street. 

beautiful weather - gardening & file conversins today ...


and the conversin just keeps going...

Judy in Northern MA
glaslady@tiac.net 

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From owner-glass Sun Mar 31 05:13:29 1996
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From: Joyce Moran <joyce@bright.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Edging projects 
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 1996 08:03:08 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <199603311303.IAA22094@brutus.bright.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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>I am a bit of a newbie and haven't heard of this flex-braid stuff.  Could
>you give a little more detail and where you got it?

>Thanks,
>Becky
>
I'm not exactly sure where you can get it in your area.  I am a retailer and
I could sell it to you.  If your local retailer orders from a wholesale
company called Glass Elporium, they carry it.  I sell 10 ft of it for $3.00
plus tax and shipping.
Joyce Moran

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From owner-glass Sun Mar 31 05:13:30 1996
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From: Joyce Moran <joyce@bright.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Edging projects
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 1996 08:03:18 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <199603311303.IAA22105@brutus.bright.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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>Would you please expand on what "flex-braid" is?  It sounds like pre-formed
>metal that you solder to the outside of a finished piece...  What does it
>look like?
>
>Thanks!
>Tara

Flex-braid looks like the little braids that hang down in the back of the
head on certain people.  It is very thin and small 1/8" x 1/32"  and will
curve around curves and bends.  The solder fills in all the holes in the
braid and makes it sturdy.  It is sold mostly with the lamp supplies to
reinforce the bottoms of unusual style lamps that won't take a solid band or
straight copper reinforcement.  The back of the package claims "adds amazing
strength to lead came, lampshades and foil projects."  Ask your retailer to
special order it, or give me an e-mail if I can help you out.
Joyce Moran

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From owner-glass Sun Mar 31 05:13:38 1996
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From: Joyce Moran <joyce@bright.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: FRAMING
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 1996 08:03:35 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <199603311303.IAA22124@brutus.bright.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

At 11:34 AM 3/27/96 -0500, you wrote:
>First Time Poster Here--
>I am fairly new to the stained glass thing... I have recently finished an 
>11x 14 pane.  Very pretty, but some of the edges are not PERFECTLY 
>straight (lots of edge pieces)  I imagine this could be solved with the 
>proper framing technique.  Although I have no reference for framing at 
>all.  Can someone point me in the right direction?? Thanks!
>Jennifer 
I use 1/8" copper, brass,or zinc U-channel.  It covers the edges a little
but not much more than the copper foil.  It adds strength and as the size of
your panel gets larger, you can get 1/4" or 3/8" or 1/2".  I use 1/2" a lot
for very large panels, plus some reinforcing with copper reinforcement in
between my pieces.
Joyce Moran

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From owner-glass Sun Mar 31 07:11:43 1996
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From: GlassTrphy@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: irish yummies
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 1996 10:09:05 -0500
Message-ID: <1996Mar31.595.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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GET A LIFE !!!!
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From owner-glass Sun Mar 31 10:52:56 1996
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From: glaslady@tiac.net (glaslady)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: irish yummies
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 1996 13:52:15 -0500
Message-ID: <199603311852.NAA09154@mailserver2.tiac.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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my apologies to the glass listserv - I misdirected a piece of mail meant to
the next person on my maillist

I hope that the rest of you can excuse the mistake

Judy in Northern MA
glaslady@tiac.net 

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From owner-glass Sun Mar 31 11:43:02 1996
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X-Path: teleport.com!weaver51
From: Elaine & Howard Rubin <weaver51@teleport.com>
To: Glass list <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Howard is back
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 96 11:39:51 -0500
Message-ID: <199603311941.LAA01810@desiree.teleport.com>
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-- [ From: Elaine & Howard Rubin * EMC.Ver #2.5.02 ] --

The subject message says it all.
Enjoy...H
--
UNDER CONSTRUCTION...Check out http://www.teleport.com/~cbs/howard/hrubin.
htm

Elaine and Howard, mastering technology one byte at a time!
E-Mail address is...weaver51@teleport.com

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From owner-glass Sun Mar 31 13:08:35 1996
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From: izzy3@ix.netcom.com (Michael Smoucha )
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: waterproof?
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 1996 13:07:45 -0800
Message-ID: <199603312107.NAA20976@ix2.ix.netcom.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

You wrote: 
>
>Need help/advice on doing water-proof projects such as vases, 
terrariums
>etc.  Is there a preferred foil thickness/width/brand?  My projects 
always
>seem to develop leaks around the seams.  I have tried Liquid Nails'
>adhesive and another product they make called Liquid Seal.  Both dry
>crystal clear but are difficult to clean up.  Would a clear silicone 
caulk be
>better?  Most of the clear caulks I have seen are very visible.  
Unacceptable.
>

Forget trying to totaly waterproof a art glass project. Double glaze if 
you want true waterproffing.

ms
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From owner-glass Sun Mar 31 15:32:58 1996
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From: glaslady@tiac.net (glaslady)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: suggestions, please?
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 1996 18:32:53 -0500
Message-ID: <199603312332.SAA17946@mailserver2.tiac.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

any glass teachers out there? a bit of advice please...

I teach in an adult ed program - and this term I have two people in the
continuing classs who have never done glass before. One is a master
electrician who insists he's an expert at soldering and how difficult can
the rest of it be? the other is a hairdresser who's "along for the ride".
The remaining 8 in the class all have completed a basic course - and 3 are
working their way through their 4th and 5th continuing class - working on a
worden lamp this term, having done panel lamps, boxes, picture frames and
large reinforced panels. THe two newbies insist that they don't need to take
a beginners course...any suggestions, other than alloting 20 minutes a class
to them and hoping for the best. I don't want to short change the others in
the class?who knows, maybe it's the effect of the comet? a full moon?

thanks in advance

Judy in Northern MA
glaslady@tiac.net 

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From owner-glass Sun Mar 31 16:42:17 1996
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Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6)
	id m0u3XgR-0000yXa; Sun, 31 Mar 96 16:41 PST
X-Path: inetdirect.net!phrog
From: Gary Karlin <phrog@inetdirect.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: waterproof?
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 1996 19:46:36 -0500
Message-ID: <9604010046.AA27703@corb>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

At 01:07 PM 3/31/96 -0800, you wrote:
>You wrote: 
>>
>>Need help/advice on doing water-proof projects such as vases, 
>terrariums
>>etc.  Is there a preferred foil thickness/width/brand?  My projects 
>always
>>seem to develop leaks around the seams.  I have tried Liquid Nails'
>>adhesive and another product they make called Liquid Seal.  Both dry
>>crystal clear but are difficult to clean up.  Would a clear silicone 
>caulk be
>>better?  Most of the clear caulks I have seen are very visible.  
>Unacceptable.
>>
>
>Forget trying to totaly waterproof a art glass project. Double glaze if 
>you want true waterproffing.
>
>ms

Does everyone agree with Mr. Sunshine?  I have seen "water-tight" projects
and would like to hear from more of you.

phrog
>----
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>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>

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From owner-glass Sun Mar 31 18:16:24 1996
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6)
	id m0u3Z9H-0000xaa; Sun, 31 Mar 96 18:15 PST
To: rglass-42
X-Path: direct.ca!kmccullo
From: direct.ca!kmccullo
Subject: Re: suggestions, please?
Date: Sun Mar 31 18:15:10 1996
Message-ID: <96Mar31.180941-0800pdt.285609-7043+914@aphex.direct.ca>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I think you have a problem!!! But, unfortunately there are people who you
can not convince otherwise, and they will have to learn the hard way. I have
taught other crafts and have found that some come with grandious ideas, and
like you say how hard can it be, you obviously make it look easy and they
don't realize that you've had to put in your time to become as good as you
are. With out embarassing them I would ask them how long it took to learn &
perfect each of their professions. Turn it around so that they have too look
at themselves. If they are still insistant them by all means let them go for
it, they'll learn real quick & encourage them to sign up next term or give
them the opportunity to switch. Provided they pay for the additional cost of
materials. Just my thoughts.    
Karin
>any glass teachers out there? a bit of advice please...
>
>I teach in an adult ed program - and this term I have two people in the
>continuing classs who have never done glass before. One is a master
>electrician who insists he's an expert at soldering and how difficult can
>the rest of it be? the other is a hairdresser who's "along for the ride".
>The remaining 8 in the class all have completed a basic course - and 3 are
>working their way through their 4th and 5th continuing class - working on a
>worden lamp this term, having done panel lamps, boxes, picture frames and
>large reinforced panels. THe two newbies insist that they don't need to take
>a beginners course...any suggestions, other than alloting 20 minutes a class
>to them and hoping for the best. I don't want to short change the others in
>the class?who knows, maybe it's the effect of the comet? a full moon?
>
>thanks in advance
>
>Judy in Northern MA
>glaslady@tiac.net 
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
>

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From owner-glass Sun Mar 31 21:41:54 1996
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X-Path: aol.com!Glas4me
From: Glas4me@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Edging projects
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 1996 00:40:50 -0500
Message-ID: <1996Mar31.194050.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Joyce,

Regarding the flex-braid you're talking about...should it be used on most
sized projects?  Is it a mesh type of stuff?  How do you apply it, do you
just hold it over the edge you are working on and flux and solder as usual?
 From your description it sounds like it just makes a thicker edge...is that
right?  I haven't seen it in this area---Idaho that is!

Debby
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From owner-glass Sun Mar 31 22:37:39 1996
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Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6)
	id m0u3dEQ-0000E4a; Sun, 31 Mar 96 22:36 PST
X-Path: Wittenberg.EDU!cutler
From: cutler@Wittenberg.EDU
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: RE: suggestions, please?
Date: Mon, 01 Apr 1996 01:36:07 EST
Message-ID: <1996Apr1.6367.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Put your foot down.  If it is a class for those with the
basics done, then they shouldn't be there.  IF they insist
on staying - then you should not make any effort to teach the
fundamentals.  Set aside NO time for them.
That's my two cents worth.  Hope things improve for you
Cutler.
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From owner-glass Sun Mar 31 22:49:55 1996
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	id m0u3dPt-0000qQa; Sun, 31 Mar 96 22:48 PST
X-Path: light.lightlink.com!sharrow
From: "Ray Sharrow" <Ray.Sharrow@lightlink.com>
To: daver!direct.ca!kmccullo@light.lightlink.com, glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: suggestions, please?
Summary: Authenticated sender is <sharrow@[205.232.34.1]>
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 1996 01:14:34 +0000
Message-ID: <199604010648.BAA10559@light.lightlink.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

 I'm new to this (will complete my beginner's 6-week course this Wednesday).
I am an electronics technician by trade and brought soldering skills to this course; I'
I've also replaced many panes of broken window glass. The biggest benefit of these 
transported skills was to see how different the various forms of soldering are,
 and how intricate methods of cutting glass can be.
  (I've also mixed various forms of cement and  concrete to recipe -- obviously
 qualifying me as a master pastry chef and baker, right?)
 More to the point: I plan to take continuing classes, finding this craft very
enjoyable. I would resent an instructor who spent 20 minutes of MY class time
catering to folks too stubborn or proud to admit that they are beginners. I may
not have been a beginner to ALL of the skills that I've learned over the past six
weeks, but it would have been rude on my part, and unprofessional on my 
instructor's part to presume that I could handle an intermediate, continuing course 
without wasting a lot of my classmates' time.
 Offer a refund or credit for a novice course to your 2 brats, but please don't
waste 20 minutes of the 8 qualified students time (8 X20=160 minutes - 2hours
 40 minutes per class)time, to placate these boors.
 Just an opinion.


> I think you have a problem!!! But, unfortunately there are people who you
> can not convince otherwise, and they will have to learn the hard way. I have
> taught other crafts and have found that some come with grandious ideas, and
> like you say how hard can it be, you obviously make it look easy and they
> don't realize that you've had to put in your time to become as good as you
> are. With out embarassing them I would ask them how long it took to learn &
> perfect each of their professions. Turn it around so that they have too look
> at themselves. If they are still insistant them by all means let them go for
> it, they'll learn real quick & encourage them to sign up next term or give
> them the opportunity to switch. Provided they pay for the additional cost of
> materials. Just my thoughts.    
> Karin
> >any glass teachers out there? a bit of advice please...
> >
> >I teach in an adult ed program - and this term I have two people in the
> >continuing classs who have never done glass before. One is a master
> >electrician who insists he's an expert at soldering and how difficult can
> >the rest of it be? the other is a hairdresser who's "along for the ride".
> >The remaining 8 in the class all have completed a basic course - and 3 are
> >working their way through their 4th and 5th continuing class - working on a
> >worden lamp this term, having done panel lamps, boxes, picture frames and
> >large reinforced panels. THe two newbies insist that they don't need to take
> >a beginners course...any suggestions, other than alloting 20 minutes a class
> >to them and hoping for the best. I don't want to short change the others in
> >the class?who knows, maybe it's the effect of the comet? a full moon?
> >
> >thanks in advance
> >
> >Judy in Northern MA
> >glaslady@tiac.net 
> >
> >----
> >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> >To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> >
> >
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> 



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*******************************************
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From owner-glass Sun Mar 31 23:11:27 1996
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From: "Ray Sharrow" <Ray.Sharrow@lightlink.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: (Fwd) Re: irish yummies
Summary: Authenticated sender is <sharrow@[205.232.34.1]>
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 1996 01:36:21 +0000
Message-ID: <199604010710.CAA11499@light.lightlink.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

------- Forwarded Message Follows -------
From:          "Ray Sharrow" <Ray.Sharrow>
To:            glaslady@tiac.net (glaslady), glass@bungi.com
Date:          Mon, 1 Apr 1996 00:18:12 +0000
Subject:       Re: irish yummies
Priority:      normal

> my apologies to the glass listserv - I misdirected a piece of mail meant to
> the next person on my maillist
> 
> I hope that the rest of you can excuse the mistake
> 
> Judy in Northern MA
> glaslady@tiac.net 

 I'm a new subscriber to this listserv, as well as a new hobbyist in stained
glass (6 weeks, 3 projects 3 more in progress). I've found this maillist enjoyable
and inforrmative -- though I have no directly usable hints yet. 
 I hope that it is maillist of sufficient congeniality to accept an occsional off-
topic diversion (like Judy's). I find them delightful on other maillists and 
newsgroups -- as long as they are brief.
 I'm over-stepping my own definition of brevity in netiquet; but I'll keep 
lurking here for a while to see if this maillist feels like home. Thanks and hello
to one and all.


*************************************************
** ALL CATEGORICAL STATEMENTS ARE FALSE. **
*************************************************



************************************************
** ALL CATEGORICAL STATEMENTS ARE FALSE. **
************************************************
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