From owner-glass Thu Feb 1 10:22:07 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0ti3cK-0000iva; Thu, 1 Feb 96 10:20 PST X-Path: stf1.css.edu!RKOLBAK From: RICK KOLBAK To: Stained Glass Listserve Subject: Glass Date: Thu, 01 Feb 96 12:19:00 PST Message-ID: <31112117@mailgate.css.edu> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Does anyone out there have access to the telephone number for the manufacturer of Youghoigheny glass. Thanks! ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Rick Kolbak RKolbak@stf1.css.edu 1119 East 10th Street Duluth, MN 55805 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Feb 1 10:56:52 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0ti4An-0000aLa; Thu, 1 Feb 96 10:55 PST X-Path: HOPE.CIT.HOPE.EDU!MULLER%ADMIN From: MULLER%ADMIN@HOPE.CIT.HOPE.EDU To: glass@bungi.com Subject: world wide web Date: Thu, 01 Feb 1996 13:50:26 -0500 (EST) Message-ID: <1996Feb1.85026.0> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Does anyone know how to access stained glass information on World Wide Web? Anyone have the address for Delphi Glass in Lansing? Trying to locate info through Net Scape. Barbara Muller ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Feb 1 11:38:48 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0ti4pb-0000hLa; Thu, 1 Feb 96 11:38 PST X-Path: maroon.tc.umn.edu!kilbu001 From: Robin E Kilbury (Robin) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: world wide web Date: Thu, 1 Feb 96 13:37:38 -0600 Message-ID: <3111168241f6002@maroon.tc.umn.edu> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk >Does anyone know how to access stained glass information on World Wide Web? >Anyone have the address for Delphi Glass in Lansing? If you do a Net Search through Netscape for: Stained Glass you should find many resources. I know Delphi has a home page and you can request a catalog from them on-line. Robin > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Feb 1 11:46:06 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0ti4wp-0000jja; Thu, 1 Feb 96 11:45 PST X-Path: lis.ab.ca!Don.Scott From: Don Scott To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: world wide web Date: Thu, 1 Feb 1996 12:45:20 -0700 Message-ID: <1996Feb1.54520.0> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk >Does anyone know how to access stained glass information on World Wide Web? >Anyone have the address for Delphi Glass in Lansing? > >Trying to locate info through Net Scape. > >Barbara Muller > Barbara When you enter NETSCAPE there should be a button that says "NET SEARCH". Click on this button and eventually, there will be a line where you can enter information. In this line, type what you wish to find ie "stained glass", click on the search button and await your results. When I tried it there were about 100 "hits". Delphi was one of the hits. If you have problems, their web site is located at http://www.voyager.net/delphiglass Hope this helps, Don ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Feb 1 12:42:42 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0ti5oc-0000xXa; Thu, 1 Feb 96 12:41 PST X-Path: gjr From: gjr@daver.bungi.com (Glenna Rand) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: world wide web Date: Thu, 1 Feb 1996 12:41:00 PST Message-ID: Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk [In the message entitled "world wide web" on Feb 1, 13:50, MULLER%ADMIN@HOPE.CIT.HOPE.EDU writes:] > Does anyone know how to access stained glass information on World Wide Web? > Anyone have the address for Delphi Glass in Lansing? Hi, You may want to look at my website at http://www.bungi.com/glass Enjoy! -- Glenna Rand gjr@bungi.com ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Feb 1 14:04:54 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0ti76p-0000wta; Thu, 1 Feb 96 14:04 PST X-Path: nethawk.com!1091 From: 1091@nethawk.com (Sue Eiszler) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: world wide web Date: Thu, 1 Feb 1996 17:07:16 -0500 Message-ID: Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk >Does anyone know how to access stained glass information on World Wide Web? >Anyone have the address for Delphi Glass in Lansing? > >Trying to locate info through Net Scape. email is delphigl@vixa.voyager.net www is http://www.voyager.net/delphiglass Sue 1091@nethawk.com ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Feb 1 16:45:31 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0ti9c1-0000yBa; Thu, 1 Feb 96 16:44 PST X-Path: prodigy.com!MPGP79B From: MPGP79B@prodigy.com (PEGGY M PALM) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Glass Date: Thu, 01 Feb 1996 19:39:24 EST Message-ID: <096.00106458.MPGP79B@prodigy.com> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Rick, > Does anyone out there have access to the telephone number for the > manufacturer of Youghoigheny glass. Thanks! YOUGHIOGHENY OPALESCENT GLASS (412-628-3000) CRAWFORD AVE - CONNELLSVILLE, PA. 15425-1918 Peggy ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Feb 1 21:26:24 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tiDzv-0000zma; Thu, 1 Feb 96 21:25 PST X-Path: cns.net!Pristine From: Pristine To: ALL Subject: Stained Glass Web Sites Date: Fri, 02 Feb 1996 01:26:43 -0800 Message-ID: <1996Feb1.172643.0> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Organization: Pristine Glass Co. Precedence: bulk I am currently developing a site for Pristine Glass Co. in Grand Rapids, MI. There are pictures and links so far. I have plans on various documents as well as a selection of patterns. We (I also do stained glass) recently restored a tiffany window. Look for pictures of those windows. Our URL is; "http://www.cns.net/pristine/". ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Feb 1 21:28:00 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tiE1Y-0000w2a; Thu, 1 Feb 96 21:27 PST X-Path: cns.net!Pristine From: Pristine To: glass@bungi.com Subject: BTW Date: Fri, 02 Feb 1996 01:28:32 -0800 Message-ID: <1996Feb1.172832.0> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Organization: Pristine Glass Co. Precedence: bulk I have a site too. http://www.grfn.org/~mickey ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Feb 1 22:13:36 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tiDzv-0000zma; Thu, 1 Feb 96 21:25 PST X-Path: cns.net!Pristine From: Pristine To: ALL Subject: Stained Glass Web Sites Date: Fri, 02 Feb 1996 01:26:43 -0800 Message-ID: <1996Feb1.172643.0> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Organization: Pristine Glass Co. Precedence: bulk I am currently developing a site for Pristine Glass Co. in Grand Rapids, MI. There are pictures and links so far. I have plans on various documents as well as a selection of patterns. We (I also do stained glass) recently restored a tiffany window. Look for pictures of those windows. Our URL is; "http://www.cns.net/pristine/". ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Feb 1 22:40:26 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tiE1Y-0000w2a; Thu, 1 Feb 96 21:27 PST X-Path: cns.net!Pristine From: Pristine To: glass@bungi.com Subject: BTW Date: Fri, 02 Feb 1996 01:28:32 -0800 Message-ID: <1996Feb1.172832.0> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Organization: Pristine Glass Co. Precedence: bulk I have a site too. http://www.grfn.org/~mickey ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Feb 2 12:09:13 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tiRkk-0000PIa; Fri, 2 Feb 96 12:06 PST X-Path: ukanaix.cc.ukans.edu!elgarber From: elgarber@ukanaix.cc.ukans.edu To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Glass Suppliers Date: Fri, 2 Feb 1996 14:08:23 Message-ID: <9602022006.AA54198@ukanaix.cc.ukans.edu> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk At one time I located a list of supplies, wholesale and retail. I cannot remember where it was or what it was called. Can you help? ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Feb 3 09:33:31 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tilnN-0000xXa; Sat, 3 Feb 96 09:30 PST X-Path: pig.net!chicago From: carole pearson To: glass@bungi.com Subject: zinc came chop saw Date: Sat, 3 Feb 1996 13:28:55 -0500 Message-ID: <199602031828.AA00273@pig.net> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Hi All! Thanks for the tips on my foil lifting problems. My last project (a jewel box) did not give me the usual problems with lifted foil as before. Now I am wondering if anyone has heard of the new chop saw for cutting lead, copper or zinc came? Cutting these are a real problem for me and I saw an ad for a chop saw made by "Gryphon" but our shops in town know nothing about it. I would like to know if any of you have heard of it or used it and could recomend it. I would also like to know what it retails for. There is an old one in the shop where I took lessons and it was great for cutting the thin tubes for hinges without crushing them also. The owner of the shop said the company that made his was no longer in business and he knew of no other like it. I am hoping this new one I read about is like the one in the shop. It sure makes short work of cutting zinc came, also. Pat, you were right. Keeping glass here warm when foiling is no problem. I'm in Florida and here you try not to get heat stroke working in the garage, OOPSS... I meant my studio. I hope someone out there can help me on this saw thing. Keep Scoring, Carole ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Feb 3 16:17:42 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tis8Q-00004pa; Sat, 3 Feb 96 16:16 PST To: rglass-1 X-Path: cpcn.com!maruca From: maruca@cpcn.com (la madrugadora) Subject: winter Date: Sat, 3 Feb 1996 19:16:25 -0500 Message-ID: <9602040016.AA03699@info.cpcn.com> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk It seems like it was not so long ago we were complaining we couldn't work in the heat. Now I hope the lack of messages here means that everyone is working like crazy over a hot soldering iron! Here's my question: who makes your favorite blue glass. What I really want is a lapis/turquoise/azure -someplace in there- ice or similarly textured glass. I do not want streaky for this project. Wispy would do, but I'd really just like a nicely textured brilliant blue. Thanks for your thoughts, Mary Armstrong maruca@cpcn.com ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Feb 6 07:18:44 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tjp6a-0000Xoa; Tue, 6 Feb 96 07:14 PST X-Path: po.cwru.edu!txh4 From: txh4@po.cwru.edu (Theodore P. Hasenstaub) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Book Date: Tue, 6 Feb 1996 10:14:36 -0500 Message-ID: <199602061514.KAA09981@slc5.INS.CWRU.Edu> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk I am looking for a book published by Chilton in the early 80's. It is "How To Work With Beveled Glass" by Anita Isenberg. Can anyone help? Ted ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Feb 6 14:20:40 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tjvjY-00010Pa; Tue, 6 Feb 96 14:19 PST X-Path: swin.edu.au!andreaking From: "Andrea King" To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Book Summary: Authenticated sender is Date: Wed, 7 Feb 1996 09:19:35 +0000 Message-ID: <199602062219.AA09513@lucy.swin.edu.au> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Organization: Swinburne University Precedence: bulk > From: txh4@po.cwru.edu (Theodore P. Hasenstaub) > To: glass@bungi.com > Subject: Book > Date: Tue, 6 Feb 1996 10:14:36 -0500 > Reply-to: glass@bungi.com > I am looking for a book published by Chilton in the early 80's. It is "How > To Work With Beveled Glass" by Anita Isenberg. Can anyone help? > > Ted > Ted, This may or may not help you but we have the book you are looking for in the Library at Swinburne University, ......Melbourne.....Aust.....!!!!!!!! Anyway details are as follows Title: How to Work with Bebeled Glass (from The Chilton Glassworking Series) Author: Anita Isenberg Publisher: Radnor, Pa, Chilton Book Co, c1982 Hope this helps Andrea ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Feb 6 15:22:51 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tjwiD-0000mga; Tue, 6 Feb 96 15:22 PST X-Path: swin.edu.au!andreaking From: "Andrea King" To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Book Summary: Authenticated sender is Date: Wed, 7 Feb 1996 10:22:20 +0000 Message-ID: <199602062322.AA13113@lucy.swin.edu.au> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Organization: Swinburne University Precedence: bulk Ted Ooops, sori about the typo Should be > Title: How to Work with Beveled Glass Andrea ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Feb 6 21:36:56 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tk2WH-0000pva; Tue, 6 Feb 96 21:34 PST X-Path: swin.edu.au!andreaking From: "Andrea King" To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Fading Flowers Summary: Authenticated sender is Date: Wed, 7 Feb 1996 16:34:08 +0000 Message-ID: <199602070533.AA04505@lucy.swin.edu.au> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Organization: Swinburne University Precedence: bulk Hi to all I have only received one or two posts in the last few days and thought I'd just see how everyone is doing. It seems lots of you are having extremely cold weather!!!!!!!! Hope everyone is surviving ok. Here in Melbourne we are having our usual four seasons in a day....today is about 31 degrees celsius and tomorrow will be low to mid 20's with some rain, but who knows.... Well I have now completely finished my butterfly, petinad, polished and hung, and I might add it looks wonderful. I wish I could show you all... I am now drawing up another one, different style and different colours and changing a few things. Although I am very pleased with this one, there are always things you can improve on. This one was done in copperfoil with a lead came wrap and because of the size, needed bracing with a brass rod. Next time I will design my joins so that the bracing rod will be totally unseen (even though you don't notice this one unless it's pointed out, BUT I KNOW) and I will use a finer lead came on the outside. I am also looking for very particular colours and types of glass. I read with interest about others looking for and using particular glass and it's funny, but after a while at this art, one is not satisfied with just the basics. I am also learning all I can about the different types of glass eg. machine or hand rolled etc etc. Will keep me out of trouble anyway. I do have a question and maybe someone out there will be able to help! I press flowers then put them between glass... usually using bevels and creating different shapes by adding a border of coloured glass. My question is, does anyone know what I can treat the flowers with to stop them fading? The fading actually adds some character to the flowers but if they are hung in a window that has any full sun, some flowers loose most of their colour. Very frustrating after all the work that is put into them. Well, time to get home to my garage a la studio... Hope to hear how everyone is getting on. Andrea ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Feb 6 23:18:25 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tk48U-0000Noa; Tue, 6 Feb 96 23:17 PST X-Path: gr.cns.net!Pristine From: Pristine To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Fading Flowers Date: Wed, 07 Feb 1996 03:19:23 -0800 Message-ID: <1996Feb6.191923.0> References: <<199602070533.AA04505@lucy.swin.edu.au>> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Organization: Pristine Glass Co. Precedence: bulk Andrea King wrote: > > Hi to all > > I have only received one or two posts in the last few days and > thought I'd just see how everyone is doing. > > It seems lots of you are having extremely cold weather!!!!!!!! Hope > everyone is surviving ok. Here in Melbourne we are having our usual > four seasons in a day....today is about 31 degrees celsius 31 Degrees Fahrenheit here in Michigan > I do have a question and maybe someone out there will be able to > help! I press flowers then put them between glass... usually using bevels > and creating different shapes by adding a border of coloured glass. > My question is, does anyone know what I can treat the > flowers with to stop them fading? The fading actually adds some > character to the flowers but if they are hung in a window that has > any full sun, some flowers loose most of their colour. Very frustrating > after all the work that is put into them. I know that glycerine is used to preserve dried flowers. Maybe ...... Mickey@grfn.org. mickey. http://www.grfn.org/~mickey. http://www.cns.net/pristine. ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Feb 7 05:10:50 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tk9dM-0000Wra; Wed, 7 Feb 96 05:10 PST X-Path: voyager.net!delphigl From: delphigl@voyager.net (Delphi Stained Glass) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Fading Flowers Date: Wed, 7 Feb 1996 08:09:37 -0500 (EST) Message-ID: <199602071309.IAA07073@vixa.voyager.net> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Hi All! >I do have a question and maybe someone out there will be able to >help! I press flowers then put them between glass... usually using bevels >and creating different shapes by adding a border of coloured glass. >My question is, does anyone know what I can treat the >flowers with to stop them fading? The fading actually adds some >character to the flowers but if they are hung in a window that has >any full sun, some flowers loose most of their colour. Very frustrating >after all the work that is put into them. Flowers will fade naturally over time, and displaying them in direct sunlight only speeds up the process. The only way you can disguise the fading process is to paint the flowers with tempera paints. The only problem is that the flowers don't look as natural. There are a few flowers that don't fade though. The true blues withstand time very well. A few examples are Delphinium, Lobelia, Larkspur. Just my two cents! Stephanie ______________________________________________________________________ Stephanie Braman ** E-mail: delphigl@vixa.voyager.net Delphi Stained Glass ** WWW: http://www.voyager.net/delphiglass 2116 E. Michigan Ave. ** Voice: 1-800-248-2048 (USA,Canada) Lansing, MI 48912 ** 1-517-482-2617 (International) USA ** Fax: 1-800-748-0374 (USA,Canada) 1-517-482-4028 (International) _____________________________________________________________________ ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Feb 7 16:34:41 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tkKI7-0000Qva; Wed, 7 Feb 96 16:32 PST X-Path: aol.com!Glas4me From: Glas4me@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Soldering irons Date: Wed, 7 Feb 1996 19:32:29 -0500 Message-ID: <1996Feb7.143229.0> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk I'm brand new to this group. I'm also fairly new to the stained glass craft. Being new in both cases, I don't know what questions have already been addressed...I have alot of them, and hate to repeat any. I've worked in copper foil for about 1 1/2 years. I recently took a class in lead came. Seemed fairly easy at the class, but when you get home....?!?! Anyway, here is my first question. Can anyone tell me how to keep my soldering iron tip bright and shiny like it's supposed to be? I faithfully wipe it on the tip cleaner sponge..use a salmonac (sp?) block...it still looks cruddy. My iron is a 100w Weller, and I just recently started using a reheastat. (sp?) Thanks, Debby Wylie ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Feb 7 21:29:26 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tkOtQ-0000Rqa; Wed, 7 Feb 96 21:27 PST X-Path: swin.edu.au!andreaking From: "Andrea King" To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Pressed Flowers Summary: Authenticated sender is Date: Thu, 8 Feb 1996 16:27:22 +0000 Message-ID: <199602080527.AA09360@lucy.swin.edu.au> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Organization: Swinburne University Precedence: bulk Hi all Thanks for your responses to my query. I must admit Wayne, that the fading does add character to the flowers and I put a note on my card saying keep out of direct sunlight to avoid fading. Kathy emailed me direct as she was having trouble posting to the group and suggested hairspray, which I will experiment with. And Hi to Stephanie (we have communicated before), one of my favourite pressed flowers to press is the deep purple pansy and it seems to stand up to the light very well. Bye for now Andrea ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Feb 8 06:12:38 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tkX3c-0000vUa; Thu, 8 Feb 96 06:10 PST X-Path: voyager.net!delphigl From: delphigl@voyager.net (Delphi Stained Glass) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Soldering irons Date: Thu, 8 Feb 1996 09:10:17 -0500 (EST) Message-ID: <199602081410.JAA07504@vixa.voyager.net> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Hi Debby >Can anyone tell me how to keep my soldering iron tip >bright and shiny like it's supposed to be? I faithfully wipe it on the tip >cleaner sponge..use a salmonac (sp?) block...it still looks cruddy. My iron >is a 100w Weller, and I just recently started using a reheastat. (sp?) First of all, I would recommend *not* using a rheostat with your Weller 100 iron. This iron already has a built-in rheostat which maintains a steady heat. By using an external rheostat, you will burn up your iron and give it a very limited life and you will also void your warranty. These irons can last a long time. I have had mine for 8 years and it is still going strong! Iron tips periodically need to be cleaned and re-tinned. This can be achieved by using a tinning (salamoniac) block, a little flux, and a little solder. Heat up your soldering iron. Place your tinning block on your worksurface and brush a little flux onto the top of it. With your iron, melt of a medium size drop of solder onto the block and rub your tip (on all sides) on the block. The flux will help the solder tin your tip. Wipe the tip on a wet sponge to remove any residue. Examine the tip. If it all looks bright a shiny you are all set, otherwise repeat the flux, solder, and rubbing steps until you are happy with its appearance. One note though. This process is a quite smelly, so make sure that you have a fan or venting system handy to blow the fumes away from you. You can do this process as often as you desire. I like to do this as a regular maintenance routine at the end of a soldering session so I know that it's ready to use the next time or if I notice that my tip is darkening and solder isn't melting very well. Another tip for your soldering iron. After you are through for the night and your iron has cooled off, loosen the collar holding your tip in place so that it doesn't corrode to the point that you can't screw it off (and remember to tighten it before you plug your iron in for use the next time). This way it's easier for you to insure that when your tip burns out, it can be replaced instead of the entire iron. Stephanie delphigl@vixa.voyager.net ______________________________________________________________________ Stephanie Braman ** E-mail: delphigl@vixa.voyager.net Delphi Stained Glass ** WWW: http://www.voyager.net/delphiglass 2116 E. Michigan Ave. ** Voice: 1-800-248-2048 (USA,Canada) Lansing, MI 48912 ** 1-517-482-2617 (International) USA ** Fax: 1-800-748-0374 (USA,Canada) 1-517-482-4028 (International) _____________________________________________________________________ ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Feb 8 07:28:12 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tkYEN-0000m9a; Thu, 8 Feb 96 07:25 PST X-Path: ccinet.ab.ca!kgreenwell From: kgreenwell@ccinet.ab.ca (Pat Greenwell) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Soldering irons Date: Thu, 8 Feb 1996 08:22:43 -0700 Message-ID: <9602081522.AA21540@bach.ccinet.ab.ca> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk >I'm brand new to this group. I'm also fairly new to the stained glass craft. > Being new in both cases, I don't know what questions have already been >addressed...I have alot of them, and hate to repeat any. I've worked in >copper foil for about 1 1/2 years. I recently took a class in lead came. > Seemed fairly easy at the class, but when you get home....?!?! Anyway, here >is my first question. Can anyone tell me how to keep my soldering iron tip >bright and shiny like it's supposed to be? I faithfully wipe it on the tip >cleaner sponge..use a salmonac (sp?) block...it still looks cruddy. My iron >is a 100w Weller, and I just recently started using a reheastat. (sp?) > >Thanks, Debby Wylie Hi Debby: I was surprised by your comment about having a Weller 100 on a rheostat. My understanding is that since the tips have a built-in thermostat, a rheostat defeats the purpose.I have a rheostat on my Weller 60, but not the 100. Pat kgreenwell@ccinet.ab.ca Pat Greenwell Ponoka,Alberta,Canada ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Feb 8 17:01:50 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tkhAU-000165a; Thu, 8 Feb 96 16:58 PST X-Path: teleport.com!weaver51 From: Elaine & Howard Rubin To: Glass list Subject: Wet... Date: Thu, 08 Feb 96 17:00:10 -0500 Message-ID: <199602090058.QAA25992@desiree.teleport.com> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk -- [ From: Elaine & Howard Rubin * EMC.Ver #2.5.02 ] -- Hi this is Howard...Not sure how far the flooding information is being sent over the news, but here on the coast we have a MAJOR drainage ditch....the Pacific Ocean. Much localized flooding, US101 closed in many places, and almost all coast to the valley roads (west to east) has slides or closed or one lane only open. We are on a hill and so far no slides or local flooding in our area. The town of Waldport has had two houses slide down about 60 feet to street level , and homes above them are at risk of the whole hill sliding. The beautiful city of Portland has many rivers and the TV news has been showing places of which I am familar with that are or will be under water before the rivers crest. Thanks for a place to "talk to"...Enjoy....Howard -- Elaine and Howard, mastering technology one byte at a time! E-Mail address is...weaver51@teleport.com ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Feb 8 17:47:44 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tkhsw-0000wRa; Thu, 8 Feb 96 17:44 PST X-Path: pig.net!chicago From: carole pearson To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Wet... Date: Thu, 8 Feb 1996 21:42:56 -0500 Message-ID: <199602090242.AA28605@pig.net> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk At 05:00 PM 2/8/96 -0500, you wrote: >-- [ From: Elaine & Howard Rubin * EMC.Ver #2.5.02 ] -- > >Hi this is Howard...Not sure how far the flooding information is being sent >over the news, but here on the coast we have a MAJOR drainage ditch....the >Pacific Ocean. >Much localized flooding, US101 closed in many places, and almost all coast >to the valley roads (west to east) has slides or closed or one lane only >open. >We are on a hill and so far no slides or local flooding in our area. The >town of Waldport has had two houses slide down about 60 feet to street level >, and homes above them are at risk of the whole hill sliding. >The beautiful city of Portland has many rivers and the TV news has been >showing places of which I am familar with that are or will be under water >before the rivers crest. >Thanks for a place to "talk to"...Enjoy....Howard > >-- >Elaine and Howard, mastering technology one byte at a time! >E-Mail address is...weaver51@teleport.com > Hi Elaine and Howard, Am surprised to hear of the problem of flooding on West Coast. I guess our local concern has been the terrible freeze we have had here in North Central Florida. Our temps. got down in the teens, and I'm talking Florida!! We are 30 miles from the "Fern Capital" of the country. The freeze has reeked havoc on these beautiful plants. So inside I sit making suncatchers. If your situation is not to precarious what with the flooding and all I'm hoping you could find out some info on that zinc came saw for me. Our local shop has a small saw for sale that looks like a table saw and is about 8 inches square. It is very tinny and does not handle the job at all. I am hoping this came saw will do the trick. However, if you are busy bailing water I will understand. Keep Dry Carole >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com >To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Feb 8 18:32:53 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tkibr-0000nya; Thu, 8 Feb 96 18:30 PST X-Path: pig.net!chicago From: carole pearson To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Wet... Date: Thu, 8 Feb 1996 22:26:18 -0500 Message-ID: <199602090326.AA29207@pig.net> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk >Return-Path: >X-Path: pig.net!chicago >From: carole pearson >To: glass@bungi.com >Subject: Re: Wet... >Date: Thu, 8 Feb 1996 21:42:56 -0500 >Reply-To: glass@bungi.com > >At 05:00 PM 2/8/96 -0500, you wrote: >>-- [ From: Elaine & Howard Rubin * EMC.Ver #2.5.02 ] -- >> >>Hi this is Howard...Not sure how far the flooding information is being sent >>over the news, but here on the coast we have a MAJOR drainage ditch....the >>Pacific Ocean. >>Much localized flooding, US101 closed in many places, and almost all coast >>to the valley roads (west to east) has slides or closed or one lane only >>open. >>We are on a hill and so far no slides or local flooding in our area. The >>town of Waldport has had two houses slide down about 60 feet to street level >>, and homes above them are at risk of the whole hill sliding. >>The beautiful city of Portland has many rivers and the TV news has been >>showing places of which I am familar with that are or will be under water >>before the rivers crest. >>Thanks for a place to "talk to"...Enjoy....Howard >> >>-- >>Elaine and Howard, mastering technology one byte at a time! >>E-Mail address is...weaver51@teleport.com >> > >Hi Elaine and Howard, >Am surprised to hear of the problem of flooding on West Coast. I guess our >local concern has been the terrible freeze we have had here in North Central >Florida. Our temps. got down in the teens, and I'm talking Florida!! We are >30 miles from the "Fern Capital" of the country. The freeze has reeked havoc >on these beautiful plants. So inside I sit making suncatchers. If your >situation is not to precarious what with the flooding and all I'm hoping you >could find out some info on that zinc came saw for me. Our local shop has a >small saw for sale that looks like a table saw and is about 8 inches square. >It is very tinny and does not handle the job at all. I am hoping this came >saw will do the trick. However, if you are busy bailing water I will understand. >Keep Dry >Carole >>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com >>To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com >>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass >> >> > >---- >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com >To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Feb 8 19:14:26 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tkjGR-00017Oa; Thu, 8 Feb 96 19:12 PST X-Path: swin.edu.au!andreaking From: "Andrea King" To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Wet..... Summary: Authenticated sender is Date: Fri, 9 Feb 1996 14:12:49 +0000 Message-ID: <199602090312.AA21124@lucy.swin.edu.au> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Organization: Swinburne University Precedence: bulk Howard and Elaine Here I am complaining because we are having a few days of unseasonal summer rain and the temp is now down to about 18 degrees celsius after Wednesday (it reached 39 degrees C). How selfish of me when so many of you in US are really having unseasonal weather. I hope you remain safe where you are. (Hope you have the pantry stocked up....) Andrea ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Feb 8 19:16:14 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tkjHx-00018Ma; Thu, 8 Feb 96 19:14 PST X-Path: aol.com!Glas4me From: Glas4me@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Soldering irons Date: Thu, 8 Feb 1996 22:14:01 -0500 Message-ID: <1996Feb8.17141.0> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Thank you Stephanie for the answer to my question. I had no idea I couldn't use a rheostat with my Weller 100 iron. I'll disconnect it right away. If you can't use it though, how do you cool down your iron to allow you to do decorative soldering? That was the main reason I purchased the rheostat. Building up the edges around a piece-such as a suncatcher-was easier with the lower heat too. Debby ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Feb 8 19:27:29 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tkjT7-0000rua; Thu, 8 Feb 96 19:25 PST X-Path: aol.com!Glas4me From: Glas4me@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Wet... Date: Thu, 8 Feb 1996 22:25:40 -0500 Message-ID: <1996Feb8.172540.0> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Carole, I have to ask what town in North Central Florida you're from. My mother lives in Chiefland...if you know where that is, and she does stained glass too. She's the one who got me started. In the mean time, I'm here in Idaho...no flooding, no freezing...just nice! Debby ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Feb 9 05:10:32 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tksPZ-00017ga; Fri, 9 Feb 96 04:58 PST X-Path: voyager.net!delphigl From: delphigl@voyager.net (Delphi Stained Glass) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Soldering irons Date: Fri, 9 Feb 1996 07:56:50 -0500 (EST) Message-ID: <199602091256.HAA24775@vixa.voyager.net> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Hi Debby! >Thank you Stephanie for the answer to my question. I had no idea I couldn't >use a rheostat with my Weller 100 iron. I'll disconnect it right away. If >you can't use it though, how do you cool down your iron to allow you to do >decorative soldering? That was the main reason I purchased the rheostat. > Building up the edges around a piece-such as a suncatcher-was easier with >the lower heat too. You use a different iron. I have two irons at home; a Weller for regular soldering, and a Inland Insta-Heat which is on a rheostat for decorative soldering. I have found that to build up edges it works best to stagger drops of solder onto the edge which almost looks like a dashed line, let the solder cool and fill in gaps using the stagger again. The results for me have been better rounded and build up edges. Stephanie ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Feb 9 05:59:27 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tktAj-0000pPa; Fri, 9 Feb 96 05:47 PST X-Path: YaleVM.CIS.Yale.Edu!UCONNVM.UCONN.EDU!HCLADM02 From: HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Wet... Date: Fri, 09 Feb 96 08:43:01 EST Message-ID: <960209.084545.EST.HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu> References: <<199602090058.QAA25992@desiree.teleport.com>> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Howard, I have a lot of family in the Tacoma area. Your flooding makes our little flood watch look puny. The news pictures of the mud slides are scary. I'm sure we're all praying for you Washington/Oregon folks. I hear the rain is ending...hang on. -- Dorothy Kalahan, Interlibrary Loan (860) 679-2940 FAX (860) 679-4046 UCONN Health Center Library, POB 4003, Farmington CT 06034-4003 HCLADM02@UConnVM.uconn.edu ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Feb 9 06:54:26 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tku1R-0000ONa; Fri, 9 Feb 96 06:42 PST X-Path: selune.demon.co.uk!jc From: jc@selune.demon.co.uk (Jerry Cullingford) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Soldering irons Date: Thu, 8 Feb 1996 23:27:41 +0100 (GMT) Message-ID: References: <<1996Feb7.143229.0>> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk > Can anyone tell me how to keep my soldering iron tip > bright and shiny like it's supposed to be? I use a small thingy made by Multicore (a solder manufacturer). It's a small circular block (about 0.75inch diameter by about 0.3 inch deep) of what I assume is a powdered solder and flux mixture, in a metal casing. I think it was called a "tip tinner" or a "tip cleaner" - anyway, you just brush the tip across the surface, melting a bit of the mixture, and the tip comes away nice and shiny. -Jerry (P.S. Anyone know how long it usually takes Delphi to reply to email? ) ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Feb 9 08:10:45 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tkvJN-0000yva; Fri, 9 Feb 96 08:04 PST X-Path: pig.net!chicago From: carole pearson To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Wet... Date: Fri, 9 Feb 1996 12:01:47 -0500 Message-ID: <199602091701.AA04565@pig.net> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk At 10:25 PM 2/8/96 -0500, you wrote: >Carole, I have to ask what town in North Central Florida you're from. My >mother lives in Chiefland...if you know where that is, and she does stained >glass too. She's the one who got me started. In the mean time, I'm here in >Idaho...no flooding, no freezing...just nice! > >Debby >---- >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com >To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > >Hi Debby! I do indeed know where Chiefland is. I am in Ocala, Fl which is about 40 miles southeast of Chiefland. In fact, last month our whole family went to the "HUGE HUGE HUGE" Wal-Mart that they have there. I would be curious to know where your Mother gets her supplies from. There is a supply store that puts out a catalog, I believe it is Glass Crafters, somewhere in the Tampa Bay area. I haven't made it there yet. Someday.... I have been wanting to scout out Gainesville, Fl for supplies but everytime I get there I wind up at the Mall. No discipline.... At the local store where I get my supplies they hand out a neat little publication called the "STAINED GLASS NEWS". it is free and is chock full of great ideas and suggestions, a Readers Gallery that shows what people projects have made and lots of other good stuff. Their e-mail address is: SGNinfo@aol.com. I'm now going to do some glass work before I have to go back to my "real" work. Keep dry...Keep warm... and happy scoring. Carole ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Feb 9 11:13:23 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tky6t-0000Y6a; Fri, 9 Feb 96 11:03 PST X-Path: selune.demon.co.uk!root From: root@selune.demon.co.uk (root) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Temp control (Weller Irons) Date: Fri, 9 Feb 1996 19:08:40 +0100 (GMT) Message-ID: Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk If your iron is the same one as mine - Weller 100W with thermostatic control - then the temperature is selected by the tip you're using. I believe you can buy tips for several different temperature settings, as well as various shapes. (For those that are curious how this trick works, I *think* that the screw in end of the tip contains/is made of some clever material that changes its magnetic characteristics at the desired temperature; this change is detected by a sensor in the barrel, and used to control the heating element.) A quick check in my catalog lists tips for 370 degrees C (standard) (CT6E7/CT6F7) and 430 degrees C (CT6E8/CT6F8) (E is 6mm screwdriver, F is 9mm). Assuming that there's some logic in the numbering (and that the numbers are manufacturers ones), then there may be up to six or seven cooler settings available... So you may just need a different tip, rather than another iron :-). -Jerry ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Feb 9 16:11:09 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tl2tQ-0000uDa; Fri, 9 Feb 96 16:10 PST X-Path: teleport.com!weaver51 From: Elaine & Howard Rubin To: Glass list Subject: Thanks Date: Fri, 09 Feb 96 16:12:02 -0500 Message-ID: <199602100010.QAA20646@desiree.teleport.com> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk -- [ From: Elaine & Howard Rubin * EMC.Ver #2.5.02 ] -- Hi all..this is Howard. Many thanks for your concern and wishes for "no damage". We have a tentative trip to Portland tomorrow. Will make up our minds early tomorrow am. Enjoy -- Elaine and Howard, mastering technology one byte at a time! E-Mail address is...weaver51@teleport.com ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Feb 9 22:11:28 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tl8T7-0000lRa; Fri, 9 Feb 96 22:07 PST X-Path: aol.com!Glas4me From: Glas4me@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Wet... Date: Sat, 10 Feb 1996 01:07:15 -0500 Message-ID: <1996Feb9.20715.0> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Carole, Wow, that's cool...you're pretty close to Chiefland! That HUGE Walmart is pretty amazing...but it seems like a big warehouse to me. I was there in October for a visit. My mother doesn't get any of her supplies in Gainesville. She goes to a small shop/studio in Alachua called North Florida Stained Glass. They're right on Main Street and their phone number is (904) 462-2860. It's a small shop, but she really likes them because they have sessions you can attend just to make things and get together with other glass crafters. They also design things and sell kits. I know exactly what you mean about the malls. When I go to Florida, I fly in to Orlando...and WHAT MALLS they have there!!! (I used to live on Long Island, NY before I married and moved to Idaho...besides my parents, the thing I missed most was the wonderful SHOPPING OPPORTUNITIES!!) EVERYONE: Another question I have-is how do you go about making money in this delightful craft? I mean, you don't just keep making things and giving them as gifts forever do you? I'm not into large items. I've made fan lamps, clocks, suncatchers, and I just finished an arch with a heart bevel in it. When I attended a workshop in Florida that Vicki Payne gave last October, there were several people there telling about how they made money. One did jewelry by fusing, one strictly commissions-very large projects, one hit all the craft fairs selling suncatchers, etc. But here in Idaho, we don't have very many craft fairs-just during the holidays. Any ideas out there? I really enjoy working in glass, but my husband thinks I'm just wasting my time. ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Feb 9 22:11:49 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tl8Sl-00010Ka; Fri, 9 Feb 96 22:07 PST X-Path: aol.com!Glas4me From: Glas4me@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Temp control (Weller Irons) Date: Sat, 10 Feb 1996 01:06:53 -0500 Message-ID: <1996Feb9.20653.0> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Jerry, Thanks for the tip about the tips!?!?! I took mine out, and it had a little 7 on it. I assume that means that it's a 700 degree tip? The next time I get into a stained glass store, I'll look into getting some cooler tips. (Gee, I thought all I needed was different width tips...now I need different temperature tips too?!) Good thing I'm not in this craft for the money...yet! Debby ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Feb 10 06:03:29 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tlFrB-0001B0a; Sat, 10 Feb 96 06:00 PST X-Path: aol.com!Emdt1 From: Emdt1@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Wet..weather. Date: Sat, 10 Feb 1996 09:00:42 -0500 Message-ID: <1996Feb10.4042.0> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Howard We have been hearing about your floods. With friends and relatives in the northwest we have been concerned. Glad to hear that you haven't been to badly hit. Our weather has been unusual this year. First the blizzard dropped two feet of snow, then the rains came to melt some of it and start the sump pumps in the cellar. Even they couldn't keep up with the melt. Wasn't a bad flood, no real damage, but much to damp to work. We still have snow cover, I hope the next thaw is more gradual. Regards from Central NJ Elsie ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Feb 11 03:47:34 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tlaEV-0000nIa; Sun, 11 Feb 96 03:46 PST X-Path: usa1.com!jhaupin From: jhaupin@usa1.com (Judy Haupin) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Wet... Date: Sun, 11 Feb 1996 06:46:02 -0500 Message-ID: <199602111146.GAA11223@eve.usa1.net> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk >EVERYONE: Another question I have-is how do you go about making money in >this delightful craft? I mean, you don't just keep making things and giving >them as gifts forever do you? I'm not into large items. I've made fan >lamps, clocks, suncatchers, and I just finished an arch with a heart bevel in >it. When I attended a workshop in Florida that Vicki Payne gave last >October, there were several people there telling about how they made money. > One did jewelry by fusing, one strictly commissions-very large projects, one >hit all the craft fairs selling suncatchers, etc. But here in Idaho, we >don't have very many craft fairs-just during the holidays. Any ideas out >there? I really enjoy working in glass, but my husband thinks I'm just >wasting my time. hi, I got into glass about 9 years ago, while in an MBA program (it was winding down, I wanted something FUN to take up the time I wouldn't be spending in class). I've done juried shows, non juried shows, mail order, craft consortiums and this iwhat I've found - others may diffein in opinion. In Maasachusetts before the last arecession, I broke even, but had fun and met a lot of nice people. I did get some custom work and still do some via word of mouth. I break even/make a bit, but nothing to write home about, probably because I don't do enough to enjoy economies of scalle. THen the recession hit and I moved to maine where i lost money (no one was willing to pay what I was askingfor dichroic glass fused jewelry because their kids could 'make it from fimo' for 25 cents instead of the $8-10 a piece I was asking. I'm now back in mass, where the economy is not muych better, but I'm finally making money at stained glass - by teaching. I get to do what I enjoy , get out and meet new folks and teach them something I love. I'm currently working on a tiffany repro for someone that i'll probably make a couple of hundered dollars over all my costs (including labor) and thankfully they're not in a hurry. I have about 500 pieces of \fused glass jewelry in my inventory that have been there for a couple of years. and sell 10-20 each bilg holiday at work - so the pile is dwindling. I do a lot of candle shelters and stars of david for the holidays - these also sell at work. I'm reluctant to spend the standard $200-500 for a good 2 day show in the boston area, becuase the market is still pretty dead. I advertise at small airports for airplane kaleidescopes. I advertise at quilt shops for stained glass quilt panels. these cost me only the photos and the time to go around and talk to the proprietors. I pick up maybe $2000 a year in sales that way - and I deliver locally, which is a plus for many purchasers. If you do jewelry/suncatchers or other small items for large shows you have to really like to do repetitive work (I don't) and you have to have a HUGE inventory. I had one show where I sold 5 kaleidescopes at $200 each and 3-4 beveled panels, but the next 4 shows, I sold just enough to cover costs. I'd suggest targetting your market and making the rounds of the art/gift shops with appropriate items - price high enough that you'll be able to aford them to take their cut. good luck. if Idaho was anything like maine, you may find it better just to do stuff for personal pleasure & giftgiving. Judy . "And learn the luxury of doing good." - Oliver Goldsmith - "The Traveler" ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Feb 12 15:28:09 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tm7d8-00015ka; Mon, 12 Feb 96 15:25 PST X-Path: selune.demon.co.uk!jc From: jc@selune.demon.co.uk (Jerry Cullingford) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Temp control (Weller Irons) Date: Mon, 12 Feb 1996 23:31:06 +0100 (GMT) Message-ID: References: <<1996Feb9.20653.0>> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk > > Jerry, > > Thanks for the tip about the tips!?!?! I took mine out, and it had a little > 7 on it. I assume that means that it's a 700 degree tip? Could be :-). I'm not exactly up there on temperature conversions, but that sounds plausible for a fahrenheit version of the centigrade numbers in my catalog :-). Or they might just be arbitrary numbers... I'm not too sure what the temperature ranges for solder are either - if the shop carries other tips they may know - presumably they (duh! :-) ) only make tips that work with various solder types (He said, suddenly realising that there probably isn't much call for a soldering iron tip that wouldn't melt *some* type of solder) :-). -Jerry (from yet another account :-) ). ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Feb 13 14:16:30 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tmSya-0000gfa; Tue, 13 Feb 96 14:13 PST X-Path: mail.utexas.edu!kgbryant From: kgbryant@mail.utexas.edu (Kelly Bryant) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Where is everyone? Date: Tue, 13 Feb 1996 15:29:47 -0600 Message-ID: Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Well, it has been a while since I've received any communication from this group so I thought I see what was going on out there. I am finally finishing a project that has taken me months to do. It is a copper foil piece about 12'' X12". I started on it a couple of months ago. It is the most complicated project I have done (it has about 200 pieces). I am finishing the last bit of soldering and I noticed that some of the copper was turning green and, of course, the solder won't stick. Do any of you have any tips on stopping this or cleaning it off? Also, a couple of weeks ago I asked for advise on repairing broken glass in a window. I started to take ya'lls advice, but I went by the stained glass shop and they were having a class on doing professional repairs. I am going to take the class next week and I'll let you know if I got any new tips. Thanks, Kelly ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Feb 13 15:04:26 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tmTja-00001Aa; Tue, 13 Feb 96 15:02 PST X-Path: pilot.msu.edu!rosochac From: "Lisa Anne Rosochacki" To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Soldering Irons Date: Tue, 13 Feb 1996 18:01:32 -0500 (EST) Message-ID: <199602132301.SAA17927@pilot01.cl.msu.edu> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Hi all There has been an ongoing discussion on soldering irons...here is what I know from working in a SG store... The Weller 100's range in temp from 600 F to 800 F and they come standard with a 700 F degree tip... most people if they are doing decorative soldering, don't want to go any lower than 600 F because then the iron doesn't melt the solder very well. The 800 F tips are more for those people that are more experienced and want to work alot faster.... there are cautions to the higher temp and that is that you can crack the glass alot easier because of all the heat, and you can melt right through your solder lines if you don't work fast enough. When I tell people about soldering irons I like to highly recommend getting the Weller 100 and the moving to different tips (temperature wise) to do the decorative. The iron is top of the line and the company stands behind their products. I think that I have only seen one come back and that was a manufacturing defect and they replaced it. Also the tips come in the different sizes and the different sizes come in different temps too, so make sure you check all those things before you make your choice. I hope that that all helps. Lisa R. ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Feb 13 15:27:49 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tmU5p-00019la; Tue, 13 Feb 96 15:25 PST X-Path: pilot.msu.edu!rosochac From: "Lisa Anne Rosochacki" To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Wind Chimes....finally Date: Tue, 13 Feb 1996 18:24:47 -0500 (EST) Message-ID: <199602132324.SAA23717@pilot01.cl.msu.edu> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Hi Sorry that it has taken me so long to post the wind chimes instructions... I actually posted it twice but it was when the list was down...since then I have been having to deal with some major exams here at school... so here they are: I start by making about 12 fused chime pieces...I use a Quick Fire 6 kiln to fuse them...I like to use the Bullseye thin glass in cathedral colors. I cut stips about 1/2 inch wide and about 3-5 inches long...varying the length makes the sound vary when they chime. I take two strips and lay one on top of the other, just offset a bit and glue them with fusers glue to keep them from sliding all over. I then place them on shelf paper in the kiln and slowly take the temp up. I like to go up in 200 degree incriments, letting it "soak" for a few minutes at a time. To do that with the Quick Fire you have to unplug it to get the heating elements to turn off. I have found that the pieces don't totally fuse until about 1500-1700 degrees...once the temp gets to about 1300 I start to watch it, by cracking open the top and peeking in to see where they are at, and when I think that I like them I unplug the kiln and and vent it until the temp is 1100-1000 degrees. Then I close it and let it sit undisturbed until the temp goes below 650. The critical temp for glass is between 700 and 900 degrees...if it gets a draft it will likely thermoshock and cause some problems. When I have all of my chime pieces made I clean up the edges, becasue they are kinda sharp and nasty, with a Diamond Pad. That is a diamond coated pad that, when used with water, gives a really nice finish on the edges. (they look like the eldges of manuafactured glass shelves) THen I take a 2 1/2 inch rondel and drill a hole in the center with the 1/4 inch grinder bit. A piece of threaded lamp pipe is going to fit into this hole so i grind the hole to fit that. Then I use the E6000 glue to glue small wire rings to the tops of the chimes and to the underside of the rondel, make sure that you have an even number of chimes and that the rings on the underside of the rondel are all symetricall...like the numbers on a clock. On the rondel make sure that they are perpendicular to the rondel surface so that your chimes hang down nicely. The glue takes about 24 hours to set up nice and firm. Then to put it all together I use a 3/4 inch long piece of threaded pipe like what is used to make a hanging lamp (to mount the socket to) and a screw on loop, like those for hanging a hanging lamp. Put the pipe through the hole in the rondel and screw on the loop to the top side and a hex nut to the bottom side. Then cut varying lengths of thin fish line and tie one end to a chime and thread it through the wire loops on the underside of the rondel, amke sure to thread it all the way across and then attach another chime to the other end. THen when i get done I loosen the hex nut and sandwich the fish line between the rondel and the hex nut, that keeps it all from getting lop sided. Then hang it up and enjoy it. I hope that that is all clear, if not, please feel free to ask me about it. I know that it makes sense to me but that doesn't mean that I haven't forgotten something :) If you make some let me know how yours turn out. Lisa R. ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Feb 13 18:49:16 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tmXGx-00015oa; Tue, 13 Feb 96 18:48 PST X-Path: swin.edu.au!andreaking From: "Andrea King" To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Windchimes Summary: Authenticated sender is Date: Wed, 14 Feb 1996 13:48:45 +0000 Message-ID: <199602140248.AA02895@lucy.swin.edu.au> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Organization: Swinburne University Precedence: bulk Lisa, Thanks for going to so much trouble. Yes it does all make sense to me and I most certainly will try your process. I will get some HI GLASS, which will look lovely. I only have to find the time. Since I have been investigating windchimes (sounds really indepth stuff doesn't it) made with glass, I have been given some wonderful suggestions and my head is now full of amazing ideas. Most chimes seem to use glue somewhere or another which solves one of my concerns about weight especially if one is copperfoiling and soldering. I saw one windchime the other day that was very nice and sounded lovely. It was made up of 10 triangles, rounded on the angles and ground edges, with wire rings glued to the top of each triangles. The top was made out of a circle of perspex with holes drilled in it. Each triangle was attached with varying lengths of fishing line. A hook was embedded into the upper side of the perspex circle for hanging. The glass used was very soft tones of cathedral glass and made the loveliest rippling sound. Anyway I have one ready for assembly and will hopefully get it done this weekend. Will let you know how it goes. To All Everyone has been very quiet. I presume that means you are all so busy with your projects that you have no time to post to the group. Bye for now Andrea ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Feb 14 08:37:56 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tmkBV-0000L0a; Wed, 14 Feb 96 08:36 PST X-Path: ccinet.ab.ca!kgreenwell From: kgreenwell@ccinet.ab.ca (Pat Greenwell) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Soldering Irons Date: Wed, 14 Feb 1996 09:32:46 -0700 Message-ID: <9602141632.AA07263@bach.ccinet.ab.ca> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk >Hi all > >There has been an ongoing discussion on soldering irons...here is what I know >from working in a SG store... The Weller 100's range in temp from 600 F to 800 >F and they come standard with a 700 F degree tip... most people if they are >doing decorative soldering, don't want to go any lower than 600 F because then >the iron doesn't melt the solder very well. The 800 F tips are more for those >people that are more experienced and want to work alot faster.... there are >cautions to the higher temp and that is that you can crack the glass alot >easier because of all the heat, and you can melt right through your solder >lines if you don't work fast enough. When I tell people about soldering irons >I like to highly recommend getting the Weller 100 and the moving to different >tips (temperature wise) to do the decorative. The iron is top of the line and >the company stands behind their products. I think that I have only seen one >come back and that was a manufacturing defect and they replaced it. Also the >tips come in the different sizes and the different sizes come in different >temps too, so make sure you check all those things before you make your choice. >Lisa R. > **I agree with Lisa. I have a home-based business and have used a Weller 100 exclusively for 4 years. I have burned it out a couple times, and the company has cheerfully and quickly repaired it.I keep a spare for those occasions.My iron is on about 6 hours/day at least 5 days/week. I use the 800 tip, because it suits me best.I don't have much trouble with solder running through, because I keep a wet cloth under my seam for a better bead. Pat kgreenwell@ccinet.ab.ca Pat Greenwell Ponoka,Alberta,Canada ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Feb 14 09:57:23 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tmlRN-0000xPa; Wed, 14 Feb 96 09:56 PST X-Path: teleport.com!weaver51 From: Elaine & Howard Rubin To: Glass list Subject: Fwd: Re: Soldering Irons Date: Wed, 14 Feb 96 09:57:17 -0500 Message-ID: <199602141756.JAA00836@desiree.teleport.com> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk -- [ From: Elaine & Howard Rubin * EMC.Ver #2.5.02 ] -- ------- FORWARD, Original message follows ------- Date: Tuesday, 13-Feb-96 05:27 PM From: Elaine & Howard Rubin \ Internet: (weaver51@teleport.com) To: Lisa Anne Rosochacki \ Internet: (rosochac@pilot.msu.edu) Subject: Re: Soldering Irons This is Howard...I have been dabbling with the craft for the past 15+ years, and have played with many irons. I do only copper foil, and 95% of my work is lampshades. I like the 1,100 degree ungar heater (integral) for all finish soldering, and do all the preliminary tacking and tinning with the 1,000 degree tip. I use a rheostat with the iron, so as to be able to idle it without burning out the heater. My work is recognized as extremely fine craftsmanship, and does not sell cheaply. I sell the 1140 kit to my students and a rheostat as well. If I use any came I turn the rheostat down as far as necessary to avoid burning and melting the came. As for melt downs and melt throughs when soldering, work faster and or lower the temperature. -------- REPLY, Original message follows -------- Date: Tuesday, 13-Feb-96 06:01 PM From: Lisa Anne Rosochacki \ Internet: (rosochac@pilot.msu.edu) To: Glass list \ Internet: (glass@bungi.com) Subject: Soldering Irons Hi all There has been an ongoing discussion on soldering irons...here is what I know from working in a SG store... The Weller 100's range in temp from 600 F to 800 F and they come standard with a 700 F degree tip... most people if they are doing decorative soldering, don't want to go any lower than 600 F because then the iron doesn't melt the solder very well. The 800 F tips are more for those people that are more experienced and want to work alot faster .... there are cautions to the higher temp and that is that you can crack the glass alot easier because of all the heat, and you can melt right through your solder lines if you don't work fast enough. When I tell people about soldering irons I like to highly recommend getting the Weller 100 and the moving to different tips (temperature wise) to do the decorative. The iron is top of the line and the company stands behind their products. I think that I have only seen one come back and that was a manufacturing defect and they replaced it. Also the tips come in the different sizes and the different sizes come in different temps too, so make sure you check all those things before you make your choice. I hope that that all helps. Lisa R. ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass -------- REPLY, End of original message -------- -- Elaine and Howard, mastering technology one byte at a time! E-Mail address is...weaver51@teleport.com ------- FORWARD, End of original message ------- -- Elaine and Howard, mastering technology one byte at a time! E-Mail address is...weaver51@teleport.com ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Feb 14 09:57:24 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tmlRH-0000fDa; Wed, 14 Feb 96 09:56 PST X-Path: teleport.com!weaver51 From: Elaine & Howard Rubin To: Glass list Subject: Fwd: Re: Wet... Date: Wed, 14 Feb 96 09:57:10 -0500 Message-ID: <199602141755.JAA00770@desiree.teleport.com> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk -- [ From: Elaine & Howard Rubin * EMC.Ver #2.5.02 ] -- ------- FORWARD, Original message follows ------- Date: Tuesday, 13-Feb-96 01:36 PM From: Elaine & Howard Rubin \ Internet: (weaver51@teleport.com) To: carole pearson \ Internet: (chicago@pig.net) Subject: Re: Wet... Hi Carole...Howard here. My wholesaler (who I am comfortable with his recommendations) will only suggest the Gryphon Miter/chop saw. He has 5 models (different companies) in stock, and feels that there will be only a few left as time goes by. He also agreed that most of the other ones are fairly "tinny" and reported of people nipping off the ends of their fingers. He feels the miter/chop saw is a GOOD piece of equipment and a reliable company backing it and a safe saw to use. The suggested retail price is $359.00 and I can have one shipped to you for $250.00 + $6.00 shipping for a total of $256.00. To keep my costs and paper work down, I have no literature to send. Ask around if it is possible to find out about the saws on the market, and I can quote specific prices for the model you are looking for. Enjoy...H -------- REPLY, Original message follows -------- Date: Thursday, 08-Feb-96 09:42 PM From: carole pearson \ Internet: (chicago@pig.net) To: Glass list \ Internet: (glass@bungi.com) Subject: Re: Wet... Hi Elaine and Howard, Am surprised to hear of the problem of flooding on West Coast. I guess our local concern has been the terrible freeze we have had here in North Central Florida. Our temps. got down in the teens, and I'm talking Florida!! We are 30 miles from the "Fern Capital" of the country. The freeze has reeked havoc on these beautiful plants. So inside I sit making suncatchers. If your situation is not to precarious what with the flooding and all I'm hoping you could find out some info on that zinc came saw for me. Our local shop has a small saw for sale that looks like a table saw and is about 8 inches square. It is very tinny and does not handle the job at all. I am hoping this came saw will do the trick. However, if you are busy bailing water I will understand. Keep Dry Carole >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com >To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass -------- REPLY, End of original message -------- -- Elaine and Howard, mastering technology one byte at a time! E-Mail address is...weaver51@teleport.com ------- FORWARD, End of original message ------- -- Elaine and Howard, mastering technology one byte at a time! E-Mail address is...weaver51@teleport.com ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Feb 14 14:01:36 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tmpGB-0000pBa; Wed, 14 Feb 96 14:01 PST X-Path: camadm.Camosun.BC.CA!COOPERD From: cooperd@camadm.Camosun.BC.CA To: "GLASS@BUNGI.COM" Subject: Grinders Date: Wed, 14 Feb 1996 14:00:51 -0800 (PST) Message-ID: <1996Feb14.6051.0> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Hi, everyone sorry to hear of all the terrible weather in the Eastern states, we here on the west coast are having beautiful sunny weather with a high of 14. Anyway I have been very busy making lamps of all kinds, my question is, my grinder doesn't seen to be working the way it should be, does anyone know, if I need a whole new grinder or just a part, I seems to take me a long time just to grind a small area, and I have to press against it quite hard in order for it to work. Donna!!! ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Feb 14 19:27:38 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tmuLS-00011Za; Wed, 14 Feb 96 19:26 PST X-Path: ix.netcom.com!glaslite From: glaslite@ix.netcom.com (Fred Sorg ) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Grinders Date: Wed, 14 Feb 1996 19:26:42 -0800 Message-ID: <199602150326.TAA08498@ix10.ix.netcom.com> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk You wrote: > >Hi, everyone sorry to hear of all the terrible weather in the Eastern states, >we here on the west coast are having beautiful sunny weather with a high >of 14. Anyway I have been very busy making lamps of all kinds, my >question is, my grinder doesn't seen to be working the way it should be, does >anyone know, if I need a whole new grinder or just a part, I seems to >take me a long time just to grind a small area, and I have to press >against it quite hard in order for it to work. Donna!!! >---- Hi Donna, If the motor on your grinder is going slow, then you will probably need a new grinder; however, it sounds as though the gringing head is worn down - either you can move it to a different position (higher or lower) or if the head is worn, then you can replace just that. I've found that frequent cleaning of my grinder, to eliminate glass particle build-up, is really the key to making the head last. One last thing, grinding heads spin in a counter clockwise position, therefore, you must grind from left to right for the grinding to be most effective. Hope this helps. BTW-its sunny and 72 degrees in south Florida! Fred >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com >To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Feb 14 23:12:11 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tmxpW-00011Ha; Wed, 14 Feb 96 23:10 PST X-Path: ptialaska.net!dstewart From: dstewart@ptialaska.net (Sue/Dave Stewart) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Grinders Date: Wed, 14 Feb 1996 22:12:26 -0900 Message-ID: Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk my grinder doesn't seen to be working the way it should be, does >anyone know, if I need a whole new grinder or just a part, I seems to >take me a long time just to grind a small area, and I have to press >against it quite hard in order for it to work. Donna!!! Dear Donna, Have you tried lowering or raising the head? I wore a groove in mine last fall getting ready for the art shows. An Allen (sp)? wrench was all I needed. Just my 2 cents. How about the intruction manual??? Hope this helps. Here in Alaska, the snow is almost all melted and it's in the low 40's with rain. This is April weather for us. Our winter was extremely mild compared to years past. Hope everyone survives this with all glass intact!!! Byeeeeeee Sue Sue Stewart A Touch of Glass Where Glass is Class! ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Feb 15 06:02:42 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tn45G-0000Ssa; Thu, 15 Feb 96 05:50 PST X-Path: YaleVM.CIS.Yale.Edu!UCONNVM.UCONN.EDU!HCLADM02 From: HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Grinders Date: Thu, 15 Feb 96 08:45:40 EST Message-ID: <960215.084907.EST.HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu> References: <<1996Feb14.6051.0>> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk You have moved your wheel to expose fresh grinding surface, or replaced your wheel, haven't you? Have to solder tonight... -- Dorothy Kalahan, Interlibrary Loan (860) 679-2940 FAX (860) 679-4046 UCONN Health Center Library, POB 4003, Farmington CT 06034-4003 HCLADM02@UConnVM.uconn.edu ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Feb 15 14:54:34 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tnCNc-0000x8a; Thu, 15 Feb 96 14:42 PST X-Path: ix.netcom.com!izzy3 From: izzy3@ix.netcom.com (Michael Smoucha ) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Grinders Date: Thu, 15 Feb 1996 14:40:19 -0800 Message-ID: <199602152240.OAA12495@ix2.ix.netcom.com> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk You wrote: > >Hi, everyone sorry to hear of all the terrible weather in the Eastern states, >we here on the west coast are having beautiful sunny weather with a high >of 14. Anyway I have been very busy making lamps of all kinds, my >question is, my grinder doesn't seen to be working the way it should be, does >anyone know, if I need a whole new grinder or just a part, I seems to >take me a long time just to grind a small area, and I have to press >against it quite hard in order for it to work. Donna!!! >---- >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com >To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > It sounds like you need a new head, or posibly just have a heavy accumulation of glaze on your head. Try cleaning off the grinder head with a dressing stone. If that dosent help its time for a new head. ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Feb 15 15:43:48 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tnDFo-0000oca; Thu, 15 Feb 96 15:38 PST X-Path: camadm.Camosun.BC.CA!COOPERD From: cooperd@camadm.Camosun.BC.CA To: "GLASS@BUNGI.COM" Subject: Thanks!thanks!and more Thanks Date: Thu, 15 Feb 1996 15:35:29 -0800 (PST) Message-ID: <1996Feb15.73529.0> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Thanks for all the replies I received for my grinder question, this group is soooo helpful, Donna!!! ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Feb 15 18:43:28 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tnG8M-0000v6a; Thu, 15 Feb 96 18:42 PST X-Path: aol.com!Glas4me From: Glas4me@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Soldering irons & "profits?" Date: Thu, 15 Feb 1996 21:42:44 -0500 Message-ID: <1996Feb15.164244.0> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk There has been alot of response to my query about temperatures and tips for soldering irons. I'm perfectly happy with my soldering iron, the Weller 100. However, I'm wondering if maybe I need a hotter tip. I seem to move faster than my iron, I have to wait for the solder to melt. My tip seems to be a 700 degree one. (it has a little 7 on the base) Does it sound like I need an 800 degree tip? How can you tell when a tip is burned out...does it just cease to work? I hope that these questions don't sound too basic...I a relative beginner. Also, I'm still wondering about some ways that we can make some money, at least a little "profit" for our efforts. I know Howard makes what sound like exquisite lamps, but what do the rest of you do? I certainly don't expect to be rolling in the dough...but I'd like to be able to make enough to buy more glass, and replace supplies, and MAYBE have a few bucks left over. Am I dreaming? Right now, I'm just making smaller items while I'm still "perfecting my skills". Fan lamps, suncatchers, small pictures, etc. I've thought about going to my local craft store and see if she would be interested in consigning some of my items. She has some wonderful window space!! Has anyone else tried this? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance. Debby ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Feb 15 21:53:32 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tnJ5E-0000nza; Thu, 15 Feb 96 21:51 PST X-Path: swin.edu.au!andreaking From: "Andrea King" To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Profits Summary: Authenticated sender is Date: Fri, 16 Feb 1996 16:51:39 +0000 Message-ID: <199602160551.AA11248@lucy.swin.edu.au> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Organization: Swinburne University Precedence: bulk Debby Here is my 2 cents worth.... Your suggestion of approaching a local craft store is a good one and certainly warrants checking into. I sell my projects at my favourite SG supply store as they are so busy keeping up with orders that they cannot do any quick-sale things (eg up to $100 items). I now have several gift shops chasing me for a couple of things I do (in particular the pressed flowers and a simple butterfly suncatcher). I cannot keep up as I work full time (have to pay the real bills) and evenings I'm pretty tired but quite often do a little during the week. My weekends are so hectic, I do a minimum of everything so I can do a maximum of stained glass work... I just love it if you can't tell. By the way, if craft stores are anything like they are "Down Under" they are always looking for things to attract customers. Good Luck Bye for now Andrea ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Feb 15 23:21:34 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tnKSg-0000PIa; Thu, 15 Feb 96 23:20 PST X-Path: teleport.com!weaver51 From: Elaine & Howard Rubin To: Glass list Subject: Fwd: Re: Soldering irons & "profits?" Date: Thu, 15 Feb 96 23:21:04 -0500 Message-ID: <199602160719.XAA17166@desiree.teleport.com> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk -- [ From: Elaine & Howard Rubin * EMC.Ver #2.5.02 ] -- ------- FORWARD, Original message follows ------- Date: Thursday, 15-Feb-96 11:15 PM From: Elaine & Howard Rubin \ Internet: (weaver51@teleport.com) To: Glas4me@aol.com \ America On-Line: (Glas4me) Subject: Re: Soldering irons & "profits?" Hi Debby, your idea of a craft and consignment is a good way to start. Once upon a time way back when, I too, started by consigning small items (boxes, sun catchers, ocean related stuff, etc.) but quickly found someone else who just wanted to pay for their supplies would ALWAYS have something a "bit" cheaper. Currently lamps imported from countries where $2.00 a week is a living wage is what I constantly see. By doing the best you can, seeing what sells, making them efficiently, keeping records, knowing time and costs, working the stores for the largest splits you can get, and not worrying about other work that is cheaper so long as it is a worse quality, making good on commitments to your outlets are all things to consider when attempting to "make money" at it. ABOVE ALL do not give up your day job. One of my favorite sales techniques is to go into a shop and denegrate the lamps they have, tell them they cannot afford to buy mine, and ask if they would like to see REAL artistry and what they should look like, and why does a store of this quality show "garbage"? Sometimes I get a sale,other times I get "throwed" out. As an aside, I did not have to produce an income right from the start, which allowed me to develope the "business". As I am getting older, my production volume has dropped, the pieces are more choice, and the prices are rising. You have to believe in yourself, and always do the best you can. I hope some of this post contains a bit of useable wisdom....Enjoy -------- REPLY, Original message follows -------- Date: Thursday, 15-Feb-96 09:42 PM From: Glas4me@aol.com \ America On-Line: (Glas4me) To: Glass list \ Internet: (glass@bungi.com) Subject: Soldering irons & "profits?" There has been alot of response to my query about temperatures and tips for soldering irons. I'm perfectly happy with my soldering iron, the Weller 100 From owner-glass Fri Feb 16 05:03:11 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tnPgA-0000eSa; Fri, 16 Feb 96 04:54 PST X-Path: spdc.ti.com!mack From: mack@spdc.ti.com (Caren Mack) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Which grinder? Date: Fri, 16 Feb 1996 06:50:03 -0600 (CST) Message-ID: <9602161250.AA18148@epcot.spdc.ti.com> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Hi, My name is Caren and I'm new to stained glass and new to this group. I've always wanted to learn how to do stained glass and finally have the opportunity. I'm originally from the S.F. Bay Area and now reside in the Dallas, TX area. I'm in the market to buy a grinder and want to know which name brand and model numbers you experienced folks are using and most pleased with. The shop I'm dealing with has one for $159 (I don't remember the brand name off hand, sorry!) and want to try and guage whether this particular one is powerfull enough or if I need to go to the next higher model number which around $340. The owner has the larger models, but then she really gives them a work out with classes and her own projects. Appreciate any advice you might have to offer. Thanks! -= Caren mack@spdc.ti.com ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Feb 16 07:48:40 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tnSKR-0000aBa; Fri, 16 Feb 96 07:44 PST X-Path: gjr From: gjr@daver.bungi.com (Glenna Rand) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Which grinder? Date: Fri, 16 Feb 1996 07:42:24 PST Message-ID: Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk > The shop I'm dealing with has one for $159 (I don't remember the brand name > off hand, sorry!) and want to try and guage whether this particular one is > powerfull enough or if I need to go to the next higher model number which > around $340. The owner has the larger models, but then she really gives > them a work out with classes and her own projects. > > Appreciate any advice you might have to offer. Hi Caren, I bought a Glastar with a 3/4 and 1/4 head. I'm very satisfied with my purchase. -- Glenna Rand gjr@bungi.com ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Feb 16 08:22:10 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tnSsH-0000mda; Fri, 16 Feb 96 08:19 PST X-Path: ixcim.att.com!tynan From: tynan@ixcim.att.com (Tara J Tynan +1 +1 708 979 2098) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: re: which grinder Date: Fri, 16 Feb 96 10:17:10 CST Message-ID: <9602161617.AA21152@ixcim.att.com> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Hi Caren, I bought my grinder in December from my local glass shop. It is a Glastar, model G7 I believe, and has a 3/4, 1/4, and 1/8 head, including the adapter to use the two smaller heads. Plus it came with a face shield setup (small plastic one). And it had one of the new plastic trays that hold the water (and resulting gunk) which is supposed to make it easier and less messy to clean up. It was a special deal and I believe I paid about $114 before tax. I don't know if the special was specific to this shop - I'm inclined to think not because the box had an extra professional looking sticker on it explaining the special. I'm pleased with mine. Tara tynan@ixcim.att.com ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Feb 16 09:05:27 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tnTY7-0000wUa; Fri, 16 Feb 96 09:02 PST X-Path: informix.com!marissat From: Marissa Toghyani To: glass@bungi.com Subject: re: which grinder Date: Fri, 16 Feb 1996 10:59:34 -0800 Message-ID: <9602161706.AA21893@atlas> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Hi, I bought the same thing, also in December, from Hobby Lobby, which I think is a national chain, for $99. At 10:17 AM 2/16/96 CST, you wrote: >Hi Caren, > >I bought my grinder in December from my local glass shop. >It is a Glastar, model G7 I believe, and has a 3/4, 1/4, and >1/8 head, including the adapter to use the two smaller heads. >Plus it came with a face shield setup (small plastic one). And >it had one of the new plastic trays that hold the water (and >resulting gunk) which is supposed to make it easier and less messy >to clean up. >It was a special deal and I believe I paid about $114 >before tax. I don't know if the special was specific to this >shop - I'm inclined to think not because the box had an extra >professional looking sticker on it explaining the special. > >I'm pleased with mine. > >Tara >tynan@ixcim.att.com > >---- >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com >To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Feb 16 11:11:41 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tnVYO-00010Ba; Fri, 16 Feb 96 11:10 PST X-Path: aol.com!Glas4me From: Glas4me@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Which grinder? Date: Fri, 16 Feb 1996 14:10:30 -0500 Message-ID: <1996Feb16.91030.0> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Caren, Welcome, fellow newbie! I purchased an Inland Wiz Pop Top from the Glass Crafters Catalog back in February '94. It was a package deal they had--it included the face shield, footswitch, and 3/4 inch and 1/4 inch heads. I have really enjoyed the footswitch. The package was only $89.95. I haven't had a bit of problems with the grinder. Glass Crafters was excellent. They shipped my order very quickly and I would definately recommend them to anyone. If you're not familiar with them already, they're in New York and their number is (516)365-7404. There is a toll free number for orders but I don't have that at the moment. I have placed orders through some other companies, but was happiest with them. I don't have a current catalog so I don't know how much grinders are now and I don't order from catalogs too much anymore. I try to buy locally as much as I can. Hope this helps! ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Feb 16 16:22:12 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tnaOB-0000QLa; Fri, 16 Feb 96 16:20 PST X-Path: prodigy.com!MPGP79B From: MPGP79B@prodigy.com (PEGGY M PALM) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Which grinder? Date: Fri, 16 Feb 1996 15:28:07 EST Message-ID: <096.01350821.MPGP79B@prodigy.com> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Glass Crafters has moved to 398 Interstate Court Sarasota. FL 34240 1-800-422-4552 or 813-379-8333 I've had good experiences with them also. There are other mail order catalogs as well, though I would encourage you to shop locally when possible. It's nice to have a local store available, but they are not able to remain in business without support. FWIW, I also have a mid-range Glastar and have been quite happy with it. If I were to buy another grinder, I would look for one with a removable cleanout tray. Draining it via a hole in the bottom and scraping glass powder out of the well are not my favorite activities! : -) Peggy > they're in New York and their number is (516)365-7404. There is a toll > free number for orders but I don't have that at the moment. ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Feb 16 16:53:21 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tnatB-0000u0a; Fri, 16 Feb 96 16:52 PST X-Path: maroon.tc.umn.edu!kilbu001 From: "Robin" To: Glass@bungi.com Subject: Shells in Shades Date: Fri, 16 Feb 1996 18:35:17 Message-ID: <3125268c4b5e004@mhub2.tc.umn.edu> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Hi All, How do you incorporate shells into a lamp shade? Is there a special heat problem? I saw a shade where the inside of the shade was not soldered at all. What do you think the reason for this was? Dan ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Feb 17 08:33:33 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tnpY0-0000fDa; Sat, 17 Feb 96 08:31 PST X-Path: usa1.com!jhaupin From: jhaupin@usa1.com (Judy Haupin) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Shells in Shades Date: Sat, 17 Feb 1996 11:31:26 -0500 Message-ID: <199602171631.LAA05785@eve.usa1.net> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk >Hi All, > >How do you incorporate shells into a lamp shade? Is there a special heat >problem? I saw a shade where the inside of the shade was not soldered at >all. What do you think the reason for this was? > Dan, not meaning to sound xenophobic, but it was probably made at minimum wage in the orient. up in Kittery maine(one of the outlet capitals of the US),there is a stained glass outlet store - they have most of the worden patterns made in high quality glass, but the soldering is patheic - most are not finished on the inside (and we all know what that means for the long-term strength of the piece...). when I pushe d the manager for point of origin, most were coming in from 2 factories - Taiwan & PRC. none were made in the US. I use shells frequently. If they have flat edges, I foil them just as I would glass & solder accordingly . Large rounded shells like big sea biscuits, I eiher foil or silicon, depending on the construction of the piece. as for soldering the inside...I always tell my students that they can tell a well constructed glass piece about the same way as a high quality hand tailored piece of clothing - if you could 'wear it' inside out becuase the seam finishes look equally good on both sides, you've got a high quality piece. Judy . I've abandoned my search for reality and am looking for a good fantasy ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Feb 17 15:02:25 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tnvd4-0000rna; Sat, 17 Feb 96 15:01 PST X-Path: hooked.net!nsherman From: Neil Sherman To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Glass Cutter Question Date: Sat, 17 Feb 1996 13:22:24 -0800 Message-ID: <199602172301.PAA03483@mom.hooked.net> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Hello all: I'm new to this mailing list - have just been doing glass work since last September. I've finished a lead piece and am working on my first copper foil piece at a glass studio run by the San Francisco Park and Recreation dept. This Christmas I received a "Toyo" glass cutter as gift. It's the kind with a pistol grip handle and an oil reservoir in the handle. Last night I noticed that the cutter head is swiveling - something I'd not noticed before. Does anyone else use one of these cutters? Have I been pressing too hard and loosened up the cutter head or am I spectacularly unobservant and its always been this way? It doesn't seem to affect my control of the cut, but I'm wondering if it's going to get looser and looser until it just falls off. I tried adjusting the small screw on the base of the cutter head, but it's on tight. Any insight would be appreciated. Thanks for all the fine tips and info I've gleaned while lurking. Bonnie Carroll ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Feb 17 16:40:50 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tnxA4-0000Twa; Sat, 17 Feb 96 16:39 PST X-Path: gr.cns.net!Pristine From: Pristine To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Glass Cutter Question Date: Sat, 17 Feb 1996 20:41:21 -0800 Message-ID: <1996Feb17.124121.0> References: <<199602172301.PAA03483@mom.hooked.net>> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Organization: Pristine Glass Co. Precedence: bulk Neil Sherman wrote: > This Christmas I received a "Toyo" glass cutter as gift. It's the kind with > a pistol grip handle and an oil reservoir in the handle. Last night I > noticed that the cutter head is swiveling - something I'd not noticed before. > > Does anyone else use one of these cutters? The head is supposed to swivel slightly, maybe 15 degrees either way. I supposed it helps when pattern cutting. ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Feb 17 20:48:28 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0to11d-0000qba; Sat, 17 Feb 96 20:47 PST X-Path: ix.netcom.com!ferbar From: ferbar@ix.netcom.com (Yndalcio and Barbara Fernandez ) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: zinc came chop saw Date: Sat, 17 Feb 1996 20:46:45 -0800 Message-ID: <199602180446.UAA20669@ix12.ix.netcom.com> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk You wrote: >wondering if anyone has heard of the new chop saw for cutting lead, copper >or zinc came? Cutting these are a real problem for me and I saw an ad for a >chop saw made by "Gryphon" Gryphon does have a new came saw. It's pricey tho. Probably around $225 retail. You have two great stores in FL. - one in Cocoa and another in Sarasota. Give them a call. It only recently hit the market. Good luck. Barbara ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Feb 17 20:58:28 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0to1BI-0000OFa; Sat, 17 Feb 96 20:57 PST X-Path: ix.netcom.com!ferbar From: ferbar@ix.netcom.com (Yndalcio and Barbara Fernandez ) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Grinders Date: Sat, 17 Feb 1996 20:56:30 -0800 Message-ID: <199602180456.UAA17384@ix2.ix.netcom.com> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk You wrote: Try cleaning off the grinder head >with a dressing stone. What's a dressing stone? where do you get it? and what does it cost? Thanks Barbara ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Feb 17 21:07:13 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0to1KC-0000aga; Sat, 17 Feb 96 21:06 PST X-Path: ix.netcom.com!ferbar From: ferbar@ix.netcom.com (Yndalcio and Barbara Fernandez ) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Which grinder? Date: Sat, 17 Feb 1996 21:06:01 -0800 Message-ID: <199602180506.VAA21976@ix15.ix.netcom.com> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk You wrote: > The shop I'm dealing with has one for $159 You really need to know the brand and model number to compare apples to apples. I have a Glastar All-Star (it's the top of that line) which I bought at my local retail shop for $174. Jeff Eckes at The Glass Giraffe in W.V. told me he has it for less, but you'd have to pay shipping. His number is 704 456-6665. I've been very happy with my grinder. If you plan on doing this for a while, don't buy equipment that's cheap. You'll be sorry when it doesn't last. Your retailer's prices seem a little high to me, but sometimes the service is worth paying more. Good luck. Barbara ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Feb 17 21:15:25 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0to1SI-0000kea; Sat, 17 Feb 96 21:14 PST X-Path: ix.netcom.com!ferbar From: ferbar@ix.netcom.com (Yndalcio and Barbara Fernandez ) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Shells in Shades Date: Sat, 17 Feb 1996 21:14:26 -0800 Message-ID: <199602180514.VAA11213@ix9.ix.netcom.com> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk You wrote: >up in Kittery maine(one of the outlet capitals of the US),there is a stained glass outlet store - My daughter is in school up in Maine, so I'm up there at least once each year. IS this store a supply store? Would love to visit it next time I'm there. Could you give me more info, please. Name, address, phone, perhaps? Thanks. Barbara ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Feb 17 21:19:03 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0to1Vr-0000O5a; Sat, 17 Feb 96 21:18 PST X-Path: ix.netcom.com!ferbar From: ferbar@ix.netcom.com (Yndalcio and Barbara Fernandez ) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Glass Cutter Question Date: Sat, 17 Feb 1996 21:18:06 -0800 Message-ID: <199602180518.VAA28464@ix10.ix.netcom.com> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk You wrote: >This Christmas I received a "Toyo" glass cutter as gift. It's the kind with >a pistol grip handle and an oil reservoir in the handle. Last night I >noticed that the cutter head is swiveling - something I'd not noticed before. > I use one of these too. The swivel is there simply to make it easier for you to do pattern cutting, going around curves and such. Just don't forget to add oil and you'll be fine. Barbara ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Feb 18 07:46:27 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0toBJ3-0000Zca; Sun, 18 Feb 96 07:45 PST X-Path: gjr From: gjr@daver.bungi.com (Glenna Rand) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Glass Cutter Question Date: Sun, 18 Feb 1996 07:45:36 PST Message-ID: Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk > > Does anyone else use one of these cutters? Have I been pressing too hard > and loosened up the cutter head or am I spectacularly unobservant and its > always been this way? It doesn't seem to affect my control of the cut, but > I'm wondering if it's going to get looser and looser until it just falls > off. I tried adjusting the small screw on the base of the cutter head, but > it's on tight. Hi Bonnie, I have a pistol type of cutter with the oil reservoir...the head does swivel too. I believe it is this way so one can go around curves etc. better. I don't find that it effects my cutting though. It may take some time to get used to as well. Hope this helps. -- Glenna Rand gjr@bungi.com ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Feb 18 15:22:22 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0toIPv-0000XWa; Sun, 18 Feb 96 15:21 PST X-Path: swin.edu.au!andreaking From: "Andrea King" To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: zinc came chop saw Summary: Authenticated sender is Date: Mon, 19 Feb 1996 10:20:01 +0000 Message-ID: <199602182320.AA20888@lucy.swin.edu.au> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Organization: Swinburne University Precedence: bulk > You wrote: > > >wondering if anyone has heard of the new chop saw for cutting lead, > copper > >or zinc came? Cutting these are a real problem for me and I saw an ad > for a > >chop saw made by "Gryphon" > > Gryphon does have a new came saw. It's pricey tho. Probably around > $225 retail. You have two great stores in FL. - one in Cocoa and > another in Sarasota. Give them a call. It only recently hit the > market. Good luck. Barbara Would you know where I could get a brochure on this Gryphon came saw? Is there an email address or FAX number that I can get in contact with someone about it (keeping in mind I'm in Australia)... Maybe the manufacturer/wholesaler if possible! Thanks Andrea ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Feb 18 16:33:45 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0toJXN-0000mra; Sun, 18 Feb 96 16:33 PST X-Path: teleport.com!weaver51 From: Elaine & Howard Rubin To: Glass list Subject: Toyo Cutter, a few tips Date: Sun, 18 Feb 96 16:33:40 -0500 Message-ID: <199602190032.QAA00826@desiree.teleport.com> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk -- [ From: Elaine & Howard Rubin * EMC.Ver #2.5.02 ] -- Hello, all...If the head on the cutter slips off, you probably do not have the screw in line with the notch on the inside shaft of the cutter (detent). Position head so screw tightens on to flat spot on the shaft of the cutter (be careful not to loose spring), and do not over tighten. If you do not like the head swiveling, do just the opposite....rotate head 180 degrees, and tighten head on to shaft of cutter, this will stop the head from swiveling. As a personal quirk, I do NOT fill my cutters with oil, but do dip the head in oil a couple times a week. The cutters have a tendency to leak oil over everything, remove pattern lines (from oil), smell like petroleum products, and in general the oil is a nuisance. Including my own useage and my students abusing my cutters, I only get a few years out of a head. As an aside any of you doing a lot of jig (guide cutting), I recommend using the wide head for straight lines. Either buy a second cutter and or specify a cutter with a wide head. NOTE>>> wide head will not allow you to cut free-hand...can not see the wheel. Enjoy...H -- Elaine and Howard, mastering technology one byte at a time! E-Mail address is...weaver51@teleport.com ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Feb 18 16:37:38 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0toJbL-0000v8a; Sun, 18 Feb 96 16:37 PST X-Path: swin.edu.au!andreaking From: "Andrea King" To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Chop Saw Summary: Authenticated sender is Date: Mon, 19 Feb 1996 11:36:11 +0000 Message-ID: <199602190036.AA28133@lucy.swin.edu.au> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Organization: Swinburne University Precedence: bulk Peggy, Thanks, I'll get a letter off today and will do a quick surf of the net, who knows may find a home page for them....... Andrea ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Feb 18 18:46:21 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0toLbk-0000QLa; Sun, 18 Feb 96 18:45 PST X-Path: calvin.stemnet.nf.ca!rcrane From: "Robert M. Crane" To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Glass Cutter Question Date: Sun, 18 Feb 1996 23:15:31 -0330 (NST) Message-ID: <1996Feb18.192731.0> References: <> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk I was wondering if any of you knew of workshops concerning stained glass that maybe conducted in the northeast U.S. , or eastern Canada in the months of July or Augest? I get glass patterns quarterly and other glass magazines but the eastern part of the countries seem to be neglected. I an sure there must be things occurring, but not listed. Any help would be appreciated. ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Feb 18 19:22:55 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0toMAl-0000usa; Sun, 18 Feb 96 19:21 PST X-Path: nethawk.com!1091 From: 1091@nethawk.com (Sue Eiszler) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: foiling lamp Date: Sun, 18 Feb 1996 22:25:33 -0500 Message-ID: Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Howard, I need your expertise. I am ready to start foiling the top half of my lamp (I can't grind anymore...my fingers are numb ). Is there an easy way to get all the tacky wax off when cleaning the pieces before foiling. I sure hope so cause scrubbing all 580 is going to be the pitts otherwise. Thanks. Sue 1091@nethawk.com ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Feb 19 12:56:23 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tocbT-0000vIa; Mon, 19 Feb 96 12:54 PST X-Path: longwood.lwc.edu!scarter From: Shannon Carter To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Which grinder? Date: Mon, 19 Feb 1996 15:55:28 -0500 (EST) Message-ID: References: <<1996Feb16.91030.0>> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk I would really like to have the 800 number for Glass Crafters. I have only been working with stained glass for about a year. I am always looking for catalogs so I can compare prices and get the best deal. I have dealt with only one company from a catalog and they are in Lansing, Michigan, Delphi Glass. Anyway, I have had good service so far, But to have other options would be great. Thnaks so much if you could get me that number!!! Shannon :) On Fri, 16 Feb 1996 Glas4me@aol.com wrote: > Caren, > Welcome, fellow newbie! I purchased an Inland Wiz Pop Top from the Glass > Crafters Catalog back in February '94. It was a package deal they had--it > included the face shield, footswitch, and 3/4 inch and 1/4 inch heads. I > have really enjoyed the footswitch. The package was only $89.95. I haven't > had a bit of problems with the grinder. Glass Crafters was excellent. They > shipped my order very quickly and I would definately recommend them to > anyone. If you're not familiar with them already, they're in New York and > their number is (516)365-7404. There is a toll free number for orders but I > don't have that at the moment. I have placed orders through some other > companies, but was happiest with them. I don't have a current catalog so I > don't know how much grinders are now and I don't order from catalogs too much > anymore. I try to buy locally as much as I can. Hope this helps! > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Feb 19 17:52:57 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tohFe-00013Ca; Mon, 19 Feb 96 17:52 PST X-Path: pilot.msu.edu!rosochac From: "Lisa Anne Rosochacki" To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Grinders Date: Mon, 19 Feb 1996 20:52:10 -0500 (EST) Message-ID: <199602200152.UAA31868@pilot11.cl.msu.edu> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Well here is my two cents worth on Grinders... I tend to like the Glasstar brands for a couple of reasons... 1st...the grit pattern on their wheels is 2-3 times denser and therefore tend to last 2-3 times longer. 2nd I like the fact that the Diamond Star and the Super Star II both have the drawer in the fron to keep all of your bits, extra sponges, straight edge guides and wrench in when you aren't using them...it's better than keeping them in the box packet away and it's better than having them get misplaced in a totally different location than the grinder itself. The other reason that I like the Glasstar brand has to do with the quality control from the factory. I work in a Stained Glass shop and I have seen alot of inconsistancies in the workmanship with the Inland grinders. In fact I just got a grinder myself and I got a Super Star II, and that tends to be what I sell the most of as well. Pistol Grip cutters.... they all swivel alot, more than the brass handle Toyos...When I use a pistol grip I tend to run my index finger down along the shaft and rest my finger alongside the cutter head to give me more control over the swiveling. (personally it annoys me, but I deal with it) Make sure that you keep spme cutter oil in your cutter. Newer cutters tend to leak a bit but you can reduce that by not filling them all the way at first and by using a thicker cutting oil. The Rinses Off brand is my favorite, it is like a syrup consistancy and it comes off the glass and out of clothing with water and a bit of soap, also it's a blue color and if there is a crack in the head of your cutter or in the barrel then you can see the crack better. It costs a bit more but it's alot more convenient. That's my two cents worth, Lisa ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Feb 19 18:41:13 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0toi0K-0000Uma; Mon, 19 Feb 96 18:40 PST X-Path: nethawk.com!1091 From: 1091@nethawk.com (Sue Eiszler) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: tacky wax Date: Mon, 19 Feb 1996 21:43:47 -0500 Message-ID: Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk I found something that makes life a little easier for foiling my lamp pieces. It is called Goo Gone and it does seem to get rid of the tacky wax quite easily. The stuff is also great for removing labels, stickers, etc. Sue 1091@nethawk.com ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Feb 19 19:16:47 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0toiY6-0000LHa; Mon, 19 Feb 96 19:15 PST X-Path: po.cwru.edu!txh4 From: txh4@po.cwru.edu (Theodore P. Hasenstaub) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: tacky wax Date: Mon, 19 Feb 1996 22:14:40 -0500 Message-ID: <199602200314.WAA25520@slc5.INS.CWRU.Edu> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk >I found something that makes life a little easier for foiling my lamp >pieces. It is called Goo Gone and it does seem to get rid of the tacky wax >quite easily. The stuff is also great for removing labels, stickers, etc. > >Sue >1091@nethawk.com > >Where do you purchase Goo Gone? > >Ted >txh4@po.cwru.edu >---- >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com >To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > > > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Feb 19 19:26:02 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0toih2-000059a; Mon, 19 Feb 96 19:24 PST X-Path: nettally.com!sford From: sford@nettally.com (Steven Ford) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: newbi looking for direction book etc. Date: Mon, 19 Feb 1996 22:21:04 -0500 Message-ID: <1996Feb19.17214.0> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Organization: nettally.com Precedence: bulk I am just starting to explore working with stained glass. What are some good sources for self instruction? ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Feb 19 20:04:03 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tojHw-0000Q1a; Mon, 19 Feb 96 20:02 PST X-Path: alpha.netaccess.on.ca!tchivers From: "Tom Chivers" To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re:grinders Date: Mon, 19 Feb 1996 23:03:04 +0000 Message-ID: <199602200400.XAA23869@alpha.netaccess.on.ca> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Hi everyone, Why wasn't I on this list when I bought my grinder? I feel I was given bad advise when told to get an Inland touch top.I was a newbie and wanted all the necessary equipment to work at home so the Areo was in my budget.I had it 3 months and it died.The retailer who sold it to me said it was my responsibility to get it to the repair depot.Iwent to another retailer who gladly took it for me .While being repaired, it caught fire and had to be replaced.My new retailer does not recommend that grinder and neither would I.Lisa was right about the lack of quality control! Thanks to all the responses, I will be better informed when its time to replace this grinder. It may be sooner than I think! Kathy ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Feb 19 21:30:31 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tokdq-0000g1a; Mon, 19 Feb 96 21:29 PST X-Path: aol.com!Ebk10840 From: Ebk10840@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Which grinder? Date: Tue, 20 Feb 1996 00:29:09 -0500 Message-ID: <1996Feb19.19299.0> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk you sent this to the wrong adress ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Feb 19 21:37:24 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tokkb-0000pya; Mon, 19 Feb 96 21:36 PST X-Path: aol.com!Ebk10840 From: Ebk10840@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: newbi looking for direction book etc. Date: Tue, 20 Feb 1996 00:36:51 -0500 Message-ID: <1996Feb19.193651.0> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk I have a book for you, This Business of Glass, by Loretta Radeschi, published by the Glass Press at 28 S. South State St. Newtown, PA 18940 (215) 860-9947. Ask for Krista. Very informative & easy to read! (I have a Glass Library available contact me for further info at ebk10840@aol.com) ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Feb 20 03:11:26 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0toppx-0000oba; Tue, 20 Feb 96 03:02 PST X-Path: nethawk.com!1091 From: 1091@nethawk.com (Sue Eiszler) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: tacky wax Date: Tue, 20 Feb 1996 06:05:02 -0500 Message-ID: Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk >>Where do you purchase Goo Gone? I'm in Michigan and got it at Meijer which is a competitor of Walmart and Kmart. I imagine both those stores would carry it too. Sue 1091@nethawk.com ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Feb 20 05:43:07 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tosKY-0000O5a; Tue, 20 Feb 96 05:42 PST X-Path: ukanaix.cc.ukans.edu!elgarber From: elgarber@ukanaix.cc.ukans.edu To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: grinders Date: Tue, 20 Feb 1996 07:56:34 Message-ID: <9602201342.AA18104@ukanaix.cc.ukans.edu> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk >Hi everyone, > Why wasn't I on this list when I bought my grinder? I feel I was >given bad advise when told to get an Inland touch top.I was a newbie >and wanted all the necessary equipment to work at home so the Areo was >in my budget.I had it 3 months and it died.The retailer who sold it >to me said it was my responsibility to get it to the repair >depot.Iwent to another retailer who gladly took it for me .While >being repaired, it caught fire and had to be replaced.My new retailer does >not recommend that grinder and neither would I.Lisa was right about >the lack of quality control! > Thanks to all the responses, I will be better informed when its >time to replace this grinder. It may be sooner than I think! > Kathy >---- >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com >To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass I have had an Inland for about 6 years and never had any trouble with it. It has performed perfectly. Sorry to hear you had so much trouble. ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Feb 20 08:22:48 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0touor-0000oNa; Tue, 20 Feb 96 08:21 PST X-Path: gjr From: gjr@daver.bungi.com (Glenna Rand) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: tacky wax Date: Tue, 20 Feb 1996 08:21:29 PST Message-ID: Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk [In the message entitled "Re: tacky wax" on Feb 19, 22:14, Theodore P. Hasenstaub writes:] > >I found something that makes life a little easier for foiling my lamp > >pieces. It is called Goo Gone and it does seem to get rid of the tacky wax > >quite easily. The stuff is also great for removing labels, stickers, etc. Hi Sue, Just wondering why your glass gets tacky wax on it?.....from the copperfoil? I don't mean to be totally clueless,.... -- Glenna Rand gjr@bungi.com ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Feb 20 08:26:14 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tousP-0000aMa; Tue, 20 Feb 96 08:25 PST X-Path: teleport.com!weaver51 From: Elaine & Howard Rubin To: Glass list Subject: Grinders Date: Tue, 20 Feb 96 08:25:32 -0500 Message-ID: <199602201625.IAA23346@desiree.teleport.com> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk -- [ From: Elaine & Howard Rubin * EMC.Ver #2.5.02 ] -- Hi this is Howard....I sell both brands, Inland and Glasstar. I have sold about 15 of the aero grinders, and in the beginning I had three that were wired backwards, that is they shut of when you pushed down on the top. Sending them back to the manufacturer has not been a problem, and they replaced them even before they recieved the returned ones. The "gimmick" of the push top to start is not a major plus in my opinion, but just a way to market a "new" product. The quality control of Inland has sometimes been a problem, but I have NEVER had a hassle with returns or service on their products. I still sell either companie's products and allow the customer to have their choice. Your supplier should be the person to do the service on defective products. Enjoy...H -- Elaine and Howard, mastering technology one byte at a time! E-Mail address is...weaver51@teleport.com ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Feb 20 08:59:22 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tovNj-0000nCa; Tue, 20 Feb 96 08:57 PST X-Path: usa1.com!jhaupin From: jhaupin@usa1.com (Judy Haupin) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re:grinders Date: Tue, 20 Feb 1996 11:42:51 -0500 Message-ID: <199602201642.LAA11586@eve.usa1.net> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk kathy said: > Why wasn't I on this list when I bought my grinder? I feel I was >given bad advise when told to get an Inland touch top.I was a newbie >and wanted all the necessary equipment to work at home so the Areo was >in my budget.I had it 3 months and it died.The retailer who sold it >to me said it was my responsibility to get it to the repair >depot.Iwent to another retailer who gladly took it for me .While >being repaired, it caught fire and had to be replaced.My new retailer does >not recommend that grinder and neither would I. Lisa was right about >the lack of quality control! interesting - I have 3 touch tops - 2 aeros and one of the other flavor that are used about 24 hours a week in class - and I mean used - they run for 4 hours at a stretch while in class - they've held up really well, and after a year, I'm finally having to replace the grinder heads on one. I've expereinced no problems with them at all. THese replaced all-stars with foot pedals - primarily because student had trouble co-ordinating foot with hand.... I'd dump a dealer that didn't stand behind a product - this is fortunately something that I've never experienced in my 10+ year - both through local purchases and mailorder. I've had stuff come in visibly broken and/or nonfunctional and the mailorder dealers have always replaced it (Delphi, Stained Glass Workshop, Warner Crivallero). same with locals, although if electrical, I always try it out before leaving the store. I did have band saw that didn't work right, and it was replaced, no problem. Judy, in Northern Mass I've abandoned my search for reality and am just looking for a good fantasy. ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Feb 20 10:09:41 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0towTQ-0000qma; Tue, 20 Feb 96 10:07 PST X-Path: execpc.com!gorman From: Mark Ommodt To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Grinder Bit Problem! Date: Tue, 20 Feb 1996 12:07:08 -0600 (CST) Message-ID: <199602201807.MAA19417@mail.execpc.com> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk I have an old Wizling and the diamond bit is stuck on the shaft. I loosened the allen set screw, and no go. I've tried lquid wrench and other assorted WD-40 type spray ons. I have to be careful not to wreck the shaft or another bit will not go on. I hate to buy a whole new grinder when all I need is a new bit. Help! ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Feb 20 11:17:03 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0toxXd-0000zFa; Tue, 20 Feb 96 11:16 PST X-Path: voyager.net!delphigl From: delphigl@voyager.net (Delphi Stained Glass) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Grinder Bit Problem! Date: Tue, 20 Feb 1996 14:15:25 -0500 (EST) Message-ID: <199602201915.OAA00780@vixa.voyager.net> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk HI! I would suggest that you call Inland Customer service at 800-521-8428. I'm sure that they hear this all the time and may have some creative suggestions for you. Good Luck! Stephanie > I have an old Wizling and the diamond bit is stuck on the shaft. > I loosened the allen set screw, and no go. I've tried lquid wrench > and other assorted WD-40 type spray ons. I have to be careful not > to wreck the shaft or another bit will not go on. > > I hate to buy a whole new grinder when all I need is a new bit. > > Help! > >---- >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com >To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Feb 20 14:00:25 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tp04q-00013La; Tue, 20 Feb 96 13:58 PST X-Path: nethawk.com!1091 From: 1091@nethawk.com (Sue Eiszler) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: tacky wax Date: Tue, 20 Feb 1996 17:02:22 -0500 Message-ID: Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk >Just wondering why your glass gets tacky wax on it?.....from the >copperfoil? >I don't mean to be totally clueless,.... In the class I am taking, we were instructed to apply tacky wax over the magic strips (Worden system). The glass then sticks to the form without pins. It definitely does work, but some of the tacky wax then comes off the form when pieces are removed for foiling. Sue 1091@nethawk.com ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Feb 20 14:19:13 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tp0Mm-0000pma; Tue, 20 Feb 96 14:17 PST X-Path: nethawk.com!1091 From: 1091@nethawk.com (Sue Eiszler) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Grinder Bit Problem! Date: Tue, 20 Feb 1996 17:20:47 -0500 Message-ID: Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk > I have an old Wizling and the diamond bit is stuck on the shaft. > I loosened the allen set screw, and no go. I've tried lquid wrench > and other assorted WD-40 type spray ons. I have to be careful not > to wreck the shaft or another bit will not go on. > > I hate to buy a whole new grinder when all I need is a new bit. I had the same problem. I eventually got it off with the 'help' of my husband. He did wreck the shaft in the process and although it was fixed, it died about 1 week later of the same problem. You might want to send it to the factory and have them remove it just to be safe. Sue 1091@nethawk.com ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Feb 20 14:46:37 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tp0n8-0000v8a; Tue, 20 Feb 96 14:44 PST X-Path: pilot.msu.edu!rosochac From: "Lisa Anne Rosochacki" To: glass@bungi.com Subject: grinders Date: Tue, 20 Feb 1996 17:44:00 -0500 (EST) Message-ID: <199602202244.RAA18027@pilot05.cl.msu.edu> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk hmmmm... I'm sorry if I caused a tiff about grinders...I didn't mean to sound too against Inland products. The store that I work in carries both brands plus Diamond Tech. We also use all three brands in our class room so that students and customers can try the different brands. I know of people that have the Inland grinders adn are happy with them. I mearly wished to tell you all what I see as a "sales" person. At the store that i work at, we deal with any problems that customers might have with either brand, and the companies don't have a problem with replacing the defective grinders. It just makes more sense to me that you buy the better one to start with, the one that lasts longer and offers a bit more convenience and you end up happier in the long run. The only true way to know what is right for you is to ask to use a demo model to see which one you like the best. Lisa ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Feb 20 14:52:35 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tp0tV-00013da; Tue, 20 Feb 96 14:50 PST X-Path: pilot.msu.edu!rosochac From: "Lisa Anne Rosochacki" To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Grinder Bit Problem! Date: Tue, 20 Feb 1996 17:49:56 -0500 (EST) Message-ID: <199602202249.RAA30734@pilot05.cl.msu.edu> References: <<199602201807.MAA19417@mail.execpc.com>> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk > > I have an old Wizling and the diamond bit is stuck on the shaft. > I loosened the allen set screw, and no go. I've tried lquid wrench > and other assorted WD-40 type spray ons. I have to be careful not > to wreck the shaft or another bit will not go on. > > I hate to buy a whole new grinder when all I need is a new bit. > > Help! > If you can, try a spray Teflon on the shalf...try to get it up under the bit...sometimes you even have to push it down a bit to get it to move and then you can the top section of the shaft lubricated and then try to get the bit off... if you do push it down a bit make sure that you put something under the bit so that you don't accidentally push it down all the way and then can't get it off. Also a pair of pliers help to grab onto the old grinder bit. When you put the new bit on, try putting a small amount of vasiline or motor shaft lubricant on to prevent it from happening again. It also helps to check the shaft every so often to make sure that the bit doesn't "freeze up". Lisa ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Feb 20 14:56:52 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tp0yJ-0000tLa; Tue, 20 Feb 96 14:55 PST X-Path: pilot.msu.edu!rosochac From: "Lisa Anne Rosochacki" To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: newbi looking for direction book etc. Date: Tue, 20 Feb 1996 17:55:33 -0500 (EST) Message-ID: <199602202255.RAA45060@pilot05.cl.msu.edu> References: <<1996Feb19.17214.0>> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk > > I am just starting to explore working with stained glass. What are some > good sources for self instruction? Delphi makes a good beginning stained glass video....it's what we recommend people to check out if they are thinking about getting started in stained glass.... there is a video called...The Art of Cutting Glass, and it's supposed to be good for cutting techniques....I don't know who does the video though....sorry....I can check if you think that it might be somethign you might want to look into. Lisa ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Feb 20 15:02:34 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tp13S-000106a; Tue, 20 Feb 96 15:01 PST X-Path: usa1.com!jhaupin From: jhaupin@usa1.com (Judy Haupin) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Grinder Bit Problem! Date: Tue, 20 Feb 1996 17:47:03 -0500 Message-ID: <199602202247.RAA06515@eve.usa1.net> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk > I have an old Wizling and the diamond bit is stuck on the shaft. > I loosened the allen set screw, and no go. I've tried lquid wrench > and other assorted WD-40 type spray ons. I have to be careful not > to wreck the shaft or another bit will not go on. > > I hate to buy a whole new grinder when all I need is a new bit. > > Help! > try applying heat to the head - it worked for me (this was what glastar told me to do ) there is also a substance that you can put on the shaft that renders it less prone to freezing. can't remember what it is now.... Judy, in Northern Mass I've abandoned my search for reality and am just looking for a good fantasy. ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Feb 20 16:33:40 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tp2T6-0000kYa; Tue, 20 Feb 96 16:31 PST X-Path: aristotle.net!rwsmith From: Rebecca Smith To: glass@bungi.com Subject: new to the list Date: Tue, 20 Feb 1996 18:38:08 -0600 Message-ID: <199602210038.SAA17854@aristotle.net> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Hi all: My name is Beckie Smith and I am new to the list as well as stained glass. I started taking classes back in September. Have truly enjoyed every moment. I just found the list this morning, after much searching, and was so glad to see mail being sent when I checked this evening. I must admit, I am now a little worried. I got an Inland Super Impulse grinder as a Christmas gift. So far I have had no bad expierence with it and I like the way it seems to work for me. Does Inland seem to have a problem? I am a disabled housewife with not alot of money to waste and sure hope I didn't do wrong by requesting that particular grinder. I look forward to visting with all of you in the future about stained glass. Rebecca Smith (rwsmith@aristotle.net) ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Feb 21 02:32:28 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tpBor-0000hla; Wed, 21 Feb 96 02:30 PST X-Path: spdc.ti.com!mack From: mack@spdc.ti.com (Caren Mack) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Which Grinder... ThankYou! Date: Wed, 21 Feb 1996 04:29:24 -0600 (CST) Message-ID: <9602211029.AA21968@epcot.spdc.ti.com> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Thank you Barbara, Glenna, Glas4me, Howard, Peggy, Rick, Tara and anyone else I may have missed concerning "Which grinder?" I should purchase. Glastar is the brand my local Stained Glass Shop carries and she has been using them for years. Her large ones are "All Stars" and I'm buying the next size down. Yes, she's high in price from the info I've gathered, but I live in a small town and I want to suppport her so she will continue to be there... you know what I mean? We've recieved some glass discounts, so it all evens out eventually. I've been spending the last 5 days reading the WWW digest version of all the mail messages sent all last year (no small task indeed!) and have really enjoyed all the helpfull info thats being passed along. What a great bunch of folks! I start a intermediate class Thursday and will be doing two hex shaped, 17" windows that will go on both sides of my front door. There used to be that cheap painted on stain glass looking stuff thats been baked by the afternoon Texas sun for 8 years and is fading and peeling, so I decided to replace it with the real thing. I wanted to do a dogwood pattern, but I couldn't find one (sigh), so I think I've decided on a Iris pattern (maybe). Ummm... decisions, decisions. Thanks again, Caren mack@spdc.ti.com ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Feb 21 13:43:24 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tpMI1-0000KYa; Wed, 21 Feb 96 13:41 PST X-Path: aristotle.net!rwsmith From: Rebecca Smith To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Thanks Date: Wed, 21 Feb 1996 15:48:08 -0600 Message-ID: <199602212148.PAA04408@aristotle.net> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Hi all, I would like to say Thanks to Rick, Howard and Elaine for their very kind advise about my grinder. I must admitt that I do, hopefully only sometimes, have a tendency to worry before it's called for. I have wanted to do stained glass for so many years and now that I am getting that opportunity, I get a little over excited. :) Rebecca Smith (rwsmith@aristotle.net) ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Feb 21 14:12:08 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tpMkY-0000dca; Wed, 21 Feb 96 14:11 PST X-Path: alpha.netaccess.on.ca!tchivers From: "Tom Chivers" To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Inland grinders Date: Wed, 21 Feb 1996 17:11:08 +0000 Message-ID: <199602212209.RAA20307@alpha.netaccess.on.ca> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Like Lisa,I am also sorry I was negative about my experiences with my Inland Aero grinder.I had so many people question my choice after I had purchased it that I began to have doubts about the quality. I do have to say after 6 months with my replacement Aero,I have had no problems but I also no longer use the touch top feature I will now just think that perhaps I just bought the lemon of the bunch.That can happen with any brand. Kathy ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Feb 22 10:40:51 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tpfur-00010Wa; Thu, 22 Feb 96 10:38 PST X-Path: MENTORG.COM!becky_gerlach From: Becky Gerlach To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Newbie Questions Date: Thu, 22 Feb 96 10:38:15 PST Message-ID: <9602221838.AA00916@glass> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Hello All, I am a newbie to stained glass. I took a class around October last year in copper foil. Anyway, I haven't done anything since Christmas, but got back to it this weeknd. I am noticing something weird and wonder if you all might have some answers. As I am soldering the piece it seems if the stickum from the foil is getting too hot and oozing out the edges. When I get done and start to clean the piece I notice this gummy stuff around the edges of the seams. It's kind of like when you take a price sticker off of something and it leaves some stickum behind. I did not have this problem before using the same equipment (Weller 100) and materials. I also was trying something I read about where you put copper wire around the outside of a piece that is too irregularly shaped for came. I can't seem to get a nice bead to form around this - any hints? Lastly, I have problems getting foil to burnish to textured glass and was wondering if anybody had advice on this point. Thanks so much, Becky ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Feb 22 12:23:59 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tphXn-00017ua; Thu, 22 Feb 96 12:23 PST X-Path: calvin.stemnet.nf.ca!rcrane From: "Robert M. Crane" To: Elaine & Howard Rubin Subject: Re: Grinders Date: Thu, 22 Feb 1996 16:51:50 -0330 (NST) Message-ID: <1996Feb22.13350.0> References: <<199602201625.IAA23346@desiree.teleport.com>> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk could you please help? I have some bevelled glass with a piece broken. Do you know of any site that I could fax a pattern of the broken piece and have it bevelled? Much thanks to anyone who could offer some help ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Feb 22 12:25:24 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tphZF-0001ESa; Thu, 22 Feb 96 12:24 PST To: rglass-1 X-Path: direct.ca!tonsper From: direct.ca!tonsper Subject: Tiffany Glass Centre Date: Thu Feb 22 12:24:39 1996 Message-ID: <96Feb22.122053-0800pdt.166072-15897+3870@aphex.direct.ca> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk I don't remember exactly when but just a short time ago someone asked for information about Tiffany Glass Centre, in Richmond BC. They do carry lamp bases as well as sell wholesale. If anyone would like to be on their list for catalogues, just send them your name and address. Tiffany Glass Centre 11051 Bridgeport Rd Richmond BC V6X 1T3 Phone (604) 270-4270 Fax (604) 270-4905 Check out their homepage at http://206.12.87.2/tiffany/tiffany.htm I have dealt with Tiffany's many times since I moved to Vancouver five years ago. I have always had exceptional service as well as many helpful tips. On the occasions I asked, they provided useful advice on glass selection. Debbie Alexander Wild Rose Stained Glass Studio Coquitlam, BC ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Feb 22 13:12:43 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tpiIt-00019ea; Thu, 22 Feb 96 13:11 PST X-Path: elixir.isu.edu!CATHY From: "Catherine Heyneman" To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Aquarium Stand Date: Thu, 22 Feb 1996 14:12:55 +0700 Message-ID: <3B94212BBA@elixir.isu.edu> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Organization: ISU College of Pharmacy Precedence: bulk Hi! I'm new to the list, and was wondering if anyone had ever tried making stained glass panels to go around an aquarium stand. I just bought a 75-gallon aquarium I plan to fill with colorful saltwater fish, but I didn't have enough $$ to buy a nice stand. Then the stained glass idea occurred to me (I'll do it in opaques and light it from the inside). Any recommendations on good patterns for fish/seascapes, etc? Thanks in advance, Cath ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Feb 22 13:38:40 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tpihr-0001Cna; Thu, 22 Feb 96 13:37 PST X-Path: wc1.wc.edu!warren From: Alan Warren To: "'glass@bungi.com'" Subject: RE: Grinders Date: Fri, 23 Feb 1996 15:33:28 -0600 Message-ID: <1996Feb23.93328.0> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk >I have some bevelled glass with a piece broken. Try Delphi's catalog. They have a wide variety of beveled pieces. You = might find one pre-made. I have some relatives in the glass business. = They tell me that beveling is very expensive. But I'm sure you can have = it done if you don't mind paying the price. If you need some references, = let me know and I'll get you some ph numbers. ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Feb 22 13:48:39 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tpiqP-0001BBa; Thu, 22 Feb 96 13:46 PST X-Path: mail.utexas.edu!kgbryant From: kgbryant@mail.utexas.edu (Kelly Bryant) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Aquarium Stand Date: Thu, 22 Feb 1996 15:46:23 -0600 Message-ID: Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk >Hi! > >I'm new to the list, and was wondering if anyone had ever tried >making stained glass panels to go around an aquarium stand. I have never tried to make one, but it sounds like a neat idea. You might try incorporating some shells into the pattern. I think that would look really good! Kelly ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Feb 22 17:04:39 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tplsc-0001B7a; Thu, 22 Feb 96 17:01 PST X-Path: aol.com!IstGlass From: IstGlass@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Grinders Date: Thu, 22 Feb 1996 20:00:51 -0500 Message-ID: <1996Feb22.15051.0> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk I don't know where this letter is going to go but I am lst Glass@aol.com and all of the mail being sent to glass@bungi.com is coming to me. No one at AOL wants to talk to me-I was on hold for 37 minutes trying to clear this up. The sysops on-line want me to stand in line -- this isn't my problem. I hope someone on youe end can clear this up. ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Feb 23 10:14:34 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tq1zk-0000ina; Fri, 23 Feb 96 10:13 PST X-Path: longwood.lwc.edu!scarter From: Shannon Carter To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Gatewayed mail message Date: Fri, 23 Feb 1996 13:14:40 -0500 (EST) Message-ID: Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk I have a question about grinding also beings that seems to be the going topic these days. Since I have not been working with stained glass long I'm not sure whether my question is a dumb one, but I'll ask it anyway. When I grind a chalky white substance is always left on my glass. What is this and how can I prevent it from happening? I assume it is glass particles, but it is really annoying for the fact that I have to clean off every single piece of glass before I can copper foil it, because if I don't the copper foil won't stick. I hope this question is not one that I should know from common sense, but I would love to know a way to prevent this from happening. It would save me a great deal of time when I get ready to copper foil! Also, I just wanted to say that I love being on this list because the questions and answers I have read have been a great help. Thanks to all those that sent me info about other companies! I appreciate everything. ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Feb 23 10:37:08 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tq2Ls-0000N3a; Fri, 23 Feb 96 10:36 PST X-Path: avery.med.virginia.edu!lbl From: Laurie Hall To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Gatewayed mail message Date: Fri, 23 Feb 1996 13:35:17 -0500 Message-ID: <199602231835.NAA168825@avery.med.Virginia.EDU> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk At 01:14 PM 2/23/96 -0500, you wrote: >I have a question about grinding also beings that seems to be the going >topic these days. >When I grind a chalky white substance is always left on my glass. What >is this and how can I prevent it from happening? I assume it is glass >particles, but it is really annoying for the fact that I have to clean >off every single piece of glass before I can copper foil it, because if I >don't the copper foil won't stick. I hope this question is not one that >I should know from common sense, but I would love to know a way to >prevent this from happening. It would save me a great deal of time when >I get ready to copper foil! > Hi, I'm no expert, but I'll tell you what I've been told by my instructor. Whether you use a grinder or not, you should always thoroughly clean your glass before you foil. Even if you don't have loose glass particles on it, you need to be sure to remove oil from your fingers, dust, etc., in order to ensure your foil will stick and stay stuck. I'm afraid to tell his theory, so I always clean my glass. Laurie in Virginia Laurie Hall E-mail: lbl@virginia.edu Home: 540-985-6531 Work: 804-982-0057 (until March 16, 1996) ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Feb 23 11:06:26 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tq2o6-0000lLa; Fri, 23 Feb 96 11:05 PST X-Path: mail.utexas.edu!kgbryant From: kgbryant@mail.utexas.edu (Kelly Bryant) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Gatewayed mail message Date: Fri, 23 Feb 1996 13:05:17 -0600 Message-ID: Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk >I have a question about grinding also beings that seems to be the going >topic these days. Since I have not been working with stained glass long >I'm not sure whether my question is a dumb one, but I'll ask it anyway. >When I grind a chalky white substance is always left on my glass. What >is this and how can I prevent it from happening? It sounds like you don't have enough water on the grinder. Whenever you have a white paste or particles you should add some more cold water and it will stop. AT least that's my experience. Kelly ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Feb 23 11:23:39 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tq34M-0000Uba; Fri, 23 Feb 96 11:22 PST X-Path: ccinet.ab.ca!kgreenwell From: kgreenwell@ccinet.ab.ca (Pat Greenwell) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Glass dust Date: Fri, 23 Feb 1996 12:19:05 -0700 Message-ID: <9602231919.AA29526@bach.ccinet.ab.ca> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk >I have a question about grinding also beings that seems to be the going >topic these days. Since I have not been working with stained glass long >I'm not sure whether my question is a dumb one, but I'll ask it anyway. >When I grind a chalky white substance is always left on my glass. What >is this and how can I prevent it from happening? I assume it is glass >particles, but it is really annoying for the fact that I have to clean >off every single piece of glass before I can copper foil it, because if I >don't the copper foil won't stick. I hope this question is not one that >I should know from common sense, but I would love to know a way to >prevent this from happening. It would save me a great deal of time when >I get ready to copper foil! Hi Shannon: (there are no dumb questions!) I think everybody has this white powder stuff after grinding. My solution is to keep a towel spread out in front of the grinder, and each piece gets a quick swipe over the towel after grinding.This removes excess water as well, which helps if I'm rechecking the fit on the pattern. Since I supply glass items to 10 stores, I do a lot of grinding, and this system works best for me. Pat ---------------------------------------------------- "Genealogist": An ancestrally-challenged individual. ---------------------------------------------------- kgreenwell@ccinet.ab.ca Pat Greenwel 5302 57th St., Ponoka,Alberta,Canada T4J 1M4 ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Feb 23 11:28:45 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tq39g-0000k2a; Fri, 23 Feb 96 11:27 PST X-Path: max.state.ia.us!jwhite From: Jolene White To: glass@bungi.com Subject: copper foil Date: Fri, 23 Feb 96 13:29 CST Message-ID: Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Hi everyone, My first time to post. I must say though I really appreciate the talk and helpful information I am finding. My question. I work primarily in lead came, doing almost nothing in copper foil. I want to start. I want to do a window for my bathroom, 27 X 48 inches. It is the Grandma's Trellis design from Martina, vol. II. Would copper foiling this be a good idea or should I use lead came, considering the size? What about reinforcement if I do copper foil? Any suggestions would be most appreciated! Jolene ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Feb 23 13:45:48 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tq5IE-0000e5a; Fri, 23 Feb 96 13:44 PST X-Path: ix.netcom.com!izzy3 From: izzy3@ix.netcom.com (Michael Smoucha ) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Gatewayed mail message Date: Fri, 23 Feb 1996 13:44:37 -0800 Message-ID: <199602232144.NAA29756@ix9.ix.netcom.com> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk That is glass dust. You wrote: > >I have a question about grinding also beings that seems to be the going >topic these days. Since I have not been working with stained glass long >I'm not sure whether my question is a dumb one, but I'll ask it anyway. >When I grind a chalky white substance is always left on my glass. What >is this and how can I prevent it from happening? I assume it is glass >particles, but it is really annoying for the fact that I have to clean >off every single piece of glass before I can copper foil it, because if I >don't the copper foil won't stick. I hope this question is not one that >I should know from common sense, but I would love to know a way to >prevent this from happening. It would save me a great deal of time when >I get ready to copper foil! > >Also, I just wanted to say that I love being on this list because the >questions and answers I have read have been a great help. Thanks to all >those that sent me info about other companies! I appreciate everything. > >---- >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com >To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Feb 23 14:15:58 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tq5kh-0000VKa; Fri, 23 Feb 96 14:14 PST X-Path: cornell.edu!pah8 From: "Patricia A. Homer" To: glass@bungi.com Subject: digest Date: Fri, 23 Feb 1996 17:14:00 -0500 Message-ID: <199602232214.RAA29620@postoffice4.mail.cornell.edu> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk can anyone tell me if I can "digest" this list? If so- who is the server? the owner? BTW- I love the list, you have all helped answer questions I didn't know I had! Patricia Homer, VT CVM at Cornell U. pah8@cornell.edu ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Feb 23 15:15:35 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tq6hW-0000Yja; Fri, 23 Feb 96 15:14 PST X-Path: gjr From: gjr@daver.bungi.com (Glenna Rand) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: digest Date: Fri, 23 Feb 1996 15:14:48 PST Message-ID: Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk [In the message entitled "digest" on Feb 23, 17:14, "Patricia A. Homer" writes:] > can anyone tell me if I can "digest" this list? If so- who is the server? > the owner? > BTW- I love the list, you have all helped answer questions I didn't know I had! Hi Patricia, No,..digested versions of the list are not available. But archives are available which are digested at http://www.bungi.com/glass -- Glenna Rand gjr@bungi.com ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Feb 23 15:21:55 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tq5kh-0000VKa; Fri, 23 Feb 96 14:14 PST X-Path: cornell.edu!pah8 From: "Patricia A. Homer" To: glass@bungi.com Subject: digest Date: Fri, 23 Feb 1996 17:14:00 -0500 Message-ID: <199602232214.RAA29620@postoffice4.mail.cornell.edu> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk can anyone tell me if I can "digest" this list? If so- who is the server? the owner? BTW- I love the list, you have all helped answer questions I didn't know I had! Patricia Homer, VT CVM at Cornell U. pah8@cornell.edu ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Feb 23 15:22:46 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tq6hW-0000Yja; Fri, 23 Feb 96 15:14 PST X-Path: gjr From: gjr@daver.bungi.com (Glenna Rand) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: digest Date: Fri, 23 Feb 1996 15:14:48 PST Message-ID: Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk [In the message entitled "digest" on Feb 23, 17:14, "Patricia A. Homer" writes:] > can anyone tell me if I can "digest" this list? If so- who is the server? > the owner? > BTW- I love the list, you have all helped answer questions I didn't know I had! Hi Patricia, No,..digested versions of the list are not available. But archives are available which are digested at http://www.bungi.com/glass -- Glenna Rand gjr@bungi.com ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Feb 24 07:23:12 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tqLmh-0000wca; Sat, 24 Feb 96 07:21 PST X-Path: facstaff.wisc.edu!churtenb From: C Hurtenbach To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Gatewayed mail message Date: Sat, 24 Feb 1996 09:18:55 -0600 Message-ID: <199602241521.JAA85320@audumla.students.wisc.edu> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Hello This address was posted in the rec.crafts.glass section of Usenet news. Can I receive information on how to access the site mentioned, is it by subscription or what? Thanks in advance for the info. Cynthia ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Feb 24 07:52:24 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tqMGC-0000Y8a; Sat, 24 Feb 96 07:51 PST X-Path: gjr From: gjr@daver.bungi.com (Glenna Rand) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Gatewayed mail message Date: Sat, 24 Feb 1996 07:51:41 PST Message-ID: Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk [In the message entitled "Gatewayed mail message" on Feb 24, 9:18, C Hurtenbach writes:] > Hello > This address was posted in the rec.crafts.glass section of Usenet news. Can > I receive information on how to access the site mentioned, is it by > subscription or what? > Thanks in advance for the info. Hi Cynthia, Yes,...it's by subscription. It's an e-mail mailing list. The group is very helpful and when one sends in anything it goes to the whole list. Do you still want to be added on? -- Glenna Rand gjr@bungi.com ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Feb 24 07:54:37 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tqMIQ-0000cua; Sat, 24 Feb 96 07:54 PST X-Path: aol.com!GCmagazine From: GCmagazine@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: digest Date: Sat, 24 Feb 1996 10:53:56 -0500 Message-ID: <1996Feb24.55356.0> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk dear Glass@Bungi.com Why am I getting all of your mail at our GCMAGAZINE address? Joe Porcelli ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Feb 24 10:30:59 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tqOjc-0000qQa; Sat, 24 Feb 96 10:30 PST X-Path: gjr From: gjr@daver.bungi.com (Glenna Rand) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: digest Date: Sat, 24 Feb 1996 10:30:08 PST Message-ID: Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk [In the message entitled "Re: digest" on Feb 24, 10:53, GCmagazine@aol.com writes:] > dear Glass@Bungi.com > > Why am I getting all of your mail at our GCMAGAZINE address? Hi Joe: Someone from that address has asked to be added on to the stained glass e-mail list. If you'd like to unsubscribe please let me know. -- Glenna Rand gjr@bungi.com ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Feb 24 23:05:56 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tqaWL-0000qma; Sat, 24 Feb 96 23:05 PST X-Path: aol.com!BLFstar From: BLFstar@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Items in stores Date: Sun, 25 Feb 1996 02:05:17 -0500 Message-ID: <1996Feb24.21517.0> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Hi Pat - Wondered if you could expand on your placement of items in stores. For those of us just getting started in the "business" of glass - What kinds of items sell best? What kinds of stores? Are these store owners friends or did you just walk in and ask them to sell your stuff? Consignment or wholesale? Please help! Thanks. Barbara P.S. If anyone else wants to add their experiences, we'd be most appreciative! ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Feb 24 23:17:01 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tqagy-0000rna; Sat, 24 Feb 96 23:16 PST X-Path: aol.com!BLFstar From: BLFstar@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Hello Joe! Date: Sun, 25 Feb 1996 02:16:15 -0500 Message-ID: <1996Feb24.211615.0> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Joe - stick around! This is a great newsletter type list group. By the way, folks, I met Joe Porcelli in Orlando recently at the GlassCraft Festival. In addition to being publisher of PSG's Glass Craftsman Magazine, he is an superb Tiffany lamp artisan and patina expert and teaches a great class. If you ever have a chance ( like in the upcoming Las Vegas Glass Craft Expo) TAKE HIS CLASS! He will provide lots of great time saving and helpful tips in a humorous, engaging presentation inspiring you to get back to your glass with new enthusiasm. How's that for an unsolicited complement! Seriously. Hope you stay Joe. We could all benefit here by your expertise! See you in Las Vegas! Barbara ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Feb 25 04:49:00 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tqfrW-0000yEa; Sun, 25 Feb 96 04:47 PST X-Path: pig.net!chicago From: carole pearson To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Hello Joe! Date: Sun, 25 Feb 1996 07:48:49 -0500 Message-ID: <199602251248.AA23061@pig.net> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk At 02:16 AM 2/25/96 -0500, you wrote: >Joe - stick around! This is a great newsletter type list group. By the way, >folks, I met Joe Porcelli in Orlando recently at the GlassCraft Festival. In >addition to being publisher of PSG's Glass Craftsman Magazine Hi All! What is this? A magazine I've never heard about? Please, can someone tell me where to find it? Is it just for teachers and shop owners or is it for glass hobbyists as well? I am an uncontrolled book and magazine reader (only on subjects that interest me). The only ones I've been able to find are Glass Patterns Quarterly and the Stained Glass News that is given out free in the stores. Howard, I got your reply about the came saw and I am giving it some serious thought. I'm counting my sheckels and trying to decide if I cut enough zinc to make this a smart move. Will get back to you on this. Where is everyone at? I've only gotten a few posts in the last several days. Has everyone gone on a holiday? Maybe you all are just keeping bust with your glass? Carole Pearson chicago@pig.net ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Feb 25 07:41:49 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tqiZY-0000Hxa; Sun, 25 Feb 96 07:41 PST X-Path: aol.com!ROGER0044 From: ROGER0044@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Las Vegas Glass Craft Expo? Date: Sun, 25 Feb 1996 10:41:00 -0500 Message-ID: <1996Feb25.5410.0> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Barbara, Could you please give any date and location in Vegas for the upcoming Las Vegas Glass Craft Expo. I would be very interested in attending. I have been making glass crafts for over 15 years now, and am thinking of opening a small shop. I can always learn from the real experts, and this seems to be the place to gain that information. Thank you for any help you can give. Roger ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Feb 25 10:32:53 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tqlE0-0000V3a; Sun, 25 Feb 96 10:31 PST X-Path: aol.com!Glas4me From: Glas4me@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Glass polish Date: Sun, 25 Feb 1996 13:30:57 -0500 Message-ID: <1996Feb25.83057.0> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk I have a question regarding glass polish. I recently consigned some items with a local gift boutique, and I need to know if there are other things you can use to polish your finished projects with besides the "Stained Glass Finishing Compound" I use. What do you tell people who buy items to use for polish? I'm so glad that I found this group, people who understand my questions and are going through, or have been through, the same things I am. Thanks so much for all your help! Just an interesting side note...in a class I'm taking right now geared towards beginners, the instructor told the students that if their glass gets too hot while soldering, keep a spray bottle full of water handy so you can spray it to cool it down!!! Have I missed something along the way or is that the most ludicrous thing I ever hear of!?!? Debby ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Feb 25 10:47:41 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tqlTL-0000eBa; Sun, 25 Feb 96 10:47 PST X-Path: aol.com!Glas4me From: Glas4me@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Items in stores Date: Sun, 25 Feb 1996 13:46:54 -0500 Message-ID: <1996Feb25.84654.0> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk I'm new at this craft too. Recently I approached a local gift boutique and asked them if they would like to consign my items. They were more than happy to-of course they get a 20% commission. But it doesn't cost me to have my items there and I only pay a commission when something sells. I just started this on the 19th of this month so I don't know how it's going to go yet. As far as what items sell...that's tough. Alot depends on the area you live, the time of year, etc. Here in Idaho, smaller, less expensive items seem to sell best, such as fan lamps, angel suncatchers-actually anything angel-or clocks. My mother sells in northern Florida and she does well with large windows. You have to check out the craft fairs and stores in your area to see what's sellling. Good luck! Debby ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Feb 25 15:48:24 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tqqAF-0000iVa; Sun, 25 Feb 96 15:47 PST X-Path: hooked.net!nsherman From: Neil Sherman To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Hello Joe! Date: Sun, 25 Feb 1996 15:47:51 -0800 Message-ID: <199602252347.PAA11378@mom.hooked.net> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk > See you in Las Vegas! Barbara When and where is the glass crafts expo? And how do I find out more about it? (And where have I been that I hadn't heard before!!!!) Thanks, Bonnie ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Feb 25 16:37:29 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tqqvh-0000SRa; Sun, 25 Feb 96 16:36 PST X-Path: aol.com!GCmagazine From: GCmagazine@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: digest Date: Sun, 25 Feb 1996 19:37:18 -0500 Message-ID: <1996Feb25.143718.0> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Dear Glass@Bungi.Com Don't touch that dial! Leave me on the list. I wasn't complaining, just checking it out. Looking forward to more mail. Joe Porcelli ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Feb 25 16:44:37 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tqr2g-00010Ca; Sun, 25 Feb 96 16:43 PST X-Path: aol.com!GCmagazine From: GCmagazine@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Newbie Questions Date: Sun, 25 Feb 1996 19:43:47 -0500 Message-ID: <1996Feb25.144347.0> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Hello You Glass Maniacs, If you'd like a sample of what you can find in Glass Craftsman magazine, you can access a taste at http://www.artglassworld.com and hit the magazines bullet on the home page. Glass Craftsman is at the top of the list, Enjoy! Joe Porcelli ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Feb 25 23:44:47 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tqx7I-0000xfa; Sun, 25 Feb 96 23:13 PST X-Path: aol.com!BLFstar From: BLFstar@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Las Vegas Glass Craft Expo Date: Mon, 26 Feb 1996 02:12:54 -0500 Message-ID: <1996Feb25.211254.0> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Roger: Always happy to oblige.. and hope to meet you there. The Las Vegas show is Thursday, March 28 through Sunday March 31. Call Las Vegas Management for info at 800 217-4527 or 702 734-0070. The expo will be at the Cashman Field Convention Center with the Showboat Hotel & Casino being the headquarter hotel and Golden Nugget the secondary hotel. The expo itself will include many, many classes and workshops, a trade show and glass tour as well as an awards presentation. The program guide is very detailed. Some of the subjects of the classes include: making boxes, stepping stones, Tiffany lamps, mosaic wall art, glass painting, designing panels, decorative solder techniques, sandblast etching, jewelry wire wrapping, kiln stuff, necklaces, lead came techniques, silkscreening, glass carving, mold making, fusing, bead making, torch work, marbles, bracelets, slumping. Then there are the business type classes: photographing your work, merchandising and displaying , operating a business for profit, starting a business, recycling glass, marketing concepts, mail order business, new directions, pricing, etc, creative block clearance, how to buy art glass. There are some pretty famous teachers there too: Joe Porcelli, Norm Dobbins, Tommy G, Narcissus Quagliata, Phil Teefy, Peter McGrain, Dan Fenton, Kay Bain-Weiner, Linda Abbott and John Smith, Newy Fagan and a bunch of people from Income Opportunities Magazine among others. Give LVM a call to get the brochure and book a hotel quickly. I understand they're filling up and I had trouble getting a flight the day I wanted it. It's going to be GREAT. See you there, Barbara ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Feb 26 05:55:04 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tr3Aw-0000vPa; Mon, 26 Feb 96 05:41 PST X-Path: ccinet.ab.ca!kgreenwell From: kgreenwell@ccinet.ab.ca (Pat Greenwell) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Items in stores Date: Mon, 26 Feb 1996 06:36:01 -0700 Message-ID: <9602261336.AA16851@bach.ccinet.ab.ca> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk >Hi Pat - Wondered if you could expand on your placement of items in stores. > For those of us just getting started in the "business" of glass - What kinds >of items sell best? What kinds of stores? Are these store owners friends or >did you just walk in and ask them to sell your stuff? Consignment or >wholesale? Please help! Thanks. Barbara > >P.S. If anyone else wants to add their experiences, we'd be most >appreciative! Hi Barbara: I have been making/selling stained glass for about 5 years.I originally sold at a local craft shop on a consignment basis. That means that I set the selling price and the store takes a percentage-usually from 30%-40%. Every month they send me a cheque which gives me my percentage of all my sold items. At present I sell in 10 stores, so I get(hopefully) 10 cheques/month. I contacted 2-3 stores in the first year, and after that store owners came to me. It seems that shop owners make the rounds of their competitors to see what's out there, and contact crafters themselves. My first choice would be to sell wholesale and I have a couple stores who do that. It is really to their advantage to buy wholesale. They get to mark up 100% and set their own selling price, but they have to have capital to do it. The bookkeeping for consignment is quite a job. You have to have a precise inventory and each store seenms to have a different numbering system. Additionally, some stores cater to tourists and others to home decortors, so items sold vary in different areas. Want to know more? let me know. Pat ---------------------------------------------------- "Genealogist": An ancestrally-challenged individual. ---------------------------------------------------- kgreenwell@ccinet.ab.ca Pat Greenwel 5302 57th St., Ponoka,Alberta,Canada T4J 1M4 ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Feb 26 06:00:43 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tr3IL-0000G8a; Mon, 26 Feb 96 05:48 PST X-Path: YaleVM.CIS.Yale.Edu!UCONNVM.UCONN.EDU!HCLADM02 From: HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Gatewayed mail message Date: Mon, 26 Feb 96 08:41:29 EST Message-ID: <960226.084619.EST.HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu> References: <> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Shannon (?) I haven't read all my mail, so I may be the umpteenth one chiming in, but there is no way you can keep that white glop off you glass when you grind. It's a slurry of glass and water, It's probably collecting in the well of your grinder, too and you'll want to clean that out frequently, too. Even if you could keep it off, you'd still want to clean off the class, getting rid of cutter oils, finger oils, glass chips, marker pen, ordinary dust, etc.. The cleaner the glass the better the foil sticks. (I keep a bowl of water near my grinder and "dunk" everything after grinding as a first step in cleaning) -- Dorothy Kalahan, Interlibrary Loan (860) 679-2940 FAX (860) 679-4046 UCONN Health Center Library, POB 4003, Farmington CT 06034-4003 HCLADM02@UConnVM.uconn.edu ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Feb 26 06:18:10 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tr3Y5-00003oa; Mon, 26 Feb 96 06:05 PST X-Path: YaleVM.CIS.Yale.Edu!UCONNVM.UCONN.EDU!HCLADM02 From: HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Glass polish Date: Mon, 26 Feb 96 09:00:42 EST Message-ID: <960226.090248.EST.HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu> References: <<1996Feb25.83057.0>> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk So Debby, is the instructor of that class also a store owner? Spraying hot glass with water ought to result in lots more glass sales! (P.S. how do you know when your glass is too hot? ) -- Dorothy Kalahan, Interlibrary Loan (860) 679-2940 FAX (860) 679-4046 UCONN Health Center Library, POB 4003, Farmington CT 06034-4003 HCLADM02@UConnVM.uconn.edu ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Feb 26 06:48:43 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tr43Y-0000Uza; Mon, 26 Feb 96 06:37 PST X-Path: mail.utexas.edu!kgbryant From: kgbryant@mail.utexas.edu (Kelly Bryant) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Glass Craft Expo? Date: Mon, 26 Feb 1996 08:35:47 -0600 Message-ID: Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Hello Glassers: I was wondering if anyone new if there were any Stained Glass Expos in Texas, specifically the Central Texas area. I am in Austin and it seems like every conference or workshop is across the country from here. I would really like to get more great tips from people and see their work. Kelly ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Feb 26 09:26:32 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tr6Va-000035a; Mon, 26 Feb 96 09:14 PST X-Path: informix.com!marissat From: Marissa Toghyani To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Glass Patterns Quarterly subscriptions Date: Mon, 26 Feb 1996 11:10:44 -0800 Message-ID: <9602261712.AA09991@informix.com> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Hi all - I think some time ago there was some talk about subscriptions to Glass Patterns Quarterly. I don't know if anyone is still interested but this magazine may be subscribed to at a rate of $18.00 for one year, $32 for two years. They may be reached at 1-800-719-0769. ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Feb 26 09:28:18 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tr6Y4-0000pca; Mon, 26 Feb 96 09:17 PST X-Path: longwood.lwc.edu!scarter From: Shannon Carter To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Thanks Date: Mon, 26 Feb 1996 12:17:22 -0500 (EST) Message-ID: Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk I just wanted to thank everyone for the answers to my question. I do have another though. I tend to be an inpatient person sometimes, and have found that to be bad sometimes when working with glass. My question is about copper foiling. I am working on a nine piece cabinet set for my grandmother, and I was curious if there are any devices that will make copper foiling easier and quicker? For instance I have seen a copper foiling device in a catlog that you just feed your glass through and it centers the foil on the glass. Is this device any good. Thanks again for the answers, and also thanks to those who sent me adresses for some new catalogs! Shannon Carter scarter@longwood.lwc.edu ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Feb 26 12:57:52 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tr9mu-0000lMa; Mon, 26 Feb 96 12:44 PST X-Path: interserv.com!ebsousa From: ebsousa@interserv.com To: glass@bungi.com Subject: What to tell customers to use to polish glass besides finishing Date: Mon, 26 Feb 1996 12:41:41 -0800 Message-ID: <199602262041.AA15536@relay.interserv.com> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk To Debby: You were looking for something besides the Stained Glass Polishing compound to use to polish your projects. I have been using Glass Wax. ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Feb 26 13:03:56 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tr9sz-0000mPa; Mon, 26 Feb 96 12:51 PST X-Path: interserv.com!ebsousa From: ebsousa@interserv.com To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Foilers Date: Mon, 26 Feb 1996 12:47:32 -0800 Message-ID: <199602262047.AA15727@relay.interserv.com> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk To Shannon: You were asking about foilers. I also find the foiling process to be rather tedious so I purchased an edgemaster glass foiler. It was a bit awkward to use at first but I find it does make the process a bit faster. However I find I don't get as neat results as when I do it by hand . This could be that I need more practice as I haven't used it that much yet. Also small pieces are better done by hand. Donna Sousa Hickory Cottage Crafts EBSOUSA@INTERSERV.COM ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Feb 26 13:18:28 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0trA5D-0000v2a; Mon, 26 Feb 96 13:03 PST X-Path: aol.com!GCmagazine From: GCmagazine@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Glass Craft Expo? Date: Mon, 26 Feb 1996 16:01:05 -0500 Message-ID: <1996Feb26.1115.0> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk For All, I've come across a number of requests for information regarding the upcoming Glass Expo in Las Vegas. So here's some. The show will be held March 28 thru 31, 1996 at the Cashman Field Convention Center. Headquarter hotel is the Showboat (800-826-2800). Secondary hotel is the Golden Nugget (800-828-6206). The workshop lineup for this year's show is impressive indeed. here's a partial list of instructors: Linda Abbott and John Smith, Kay Bain Weiner, Julie Bishop Day, Kathy Bradford, Norm & Ruth Dobbins, Newy Fagan, Dan Fenton, Tommy "G" Giambusso, Cindy Jenkins, Alicia Larson, Rachel Martin, Peter McGrain, Kevin O'Grady, Joe Porcelli, Narcissus Quagliata, Phil Teefy, Debra Vantol and more. Workshops included torch-made marbles, Tiffany style lampmaking, advanced lead and reinforcement techniques, fusing, slumping & kiln work, photographing your glass, kiln-formed jewelry, sandblasting, how to use art glass, success as a professional stained glass designer, how to start a stained glass business, sculptural mosaic wall art, decorative soldering, marketing by mail, stained glass problem solving, and much, much more. To top it off, it's in Las Vegas! If you're interested, hurry up and call Las Vegas Management at 1-800-217-4527 or (702) 734-0070, fax at (702) 734-0636. They'll send you a great brochure with complete information and registration instructions. This promises to be a great show, and the only thing that can make it better is you! Hope to see you there. Joe Porcelli ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Feb 26 13:48:43 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0trAaZ-0000n7a; Mon, 26 Feb 96 13:36 PST X-Path: ccinet.ab.ca!kgreenwell From: kgreenwell@ccinet.ab.ca (Pat Greenwell) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Glass polish Date: Mon, 26 Feb 1996 14:26:06 -0700 Message-ID: <9602262126.AA07044@bach.ccinet.ab.ca> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk >I have a question regarding glass polish. I recently consigned some items >with a local gift boutique, and I need to know if there are other things you >can use to polish your finished projects with besides the "Stained Glass >Finishing Compound" I use. What do you tell people who buy items to use for >polish? > >I'm so glad that I found this group, people who understand my questions and >are going through, or have been through, the same things I am. Thanks so >much for all your help! > >Just an interesting side note...in a class I'm taking right now geared >towards beginners, the instructor told the students that if their glass gets >too hot while soldering, keep a spray bottle full of water handy so you can >spray it to cool it down!!! Have I missed something along the way or is that >the most ludicrous thing I ever hear of!?!? > Hi Debby: Re Glass Polish I have been doing glass on a commercial basis for 5 years, and I have been very pleased with car polish for my products. I always use Turtle wax (liquid) and it does a great job of keeping that white powder from developing on the solder lines.I think that stuff has a lot to do with humidity-a problem that we don't have here on the prairies. Before buying specialty glass products, I try to analyze what job I need it to do and look around the house or the local hardware store for for something that will work just as well. For example, shampoo and dishwashing detergents both work well to remove flux and oil. Anyway give Turtle Wax a try Pat ---------------------------------------------------- "Genealogist": An ancestrally-challenged individual. ---------------------------------------------------- kgreenwell@ccinet.ab.ca Pat Greenwel 5302 57th St., Ponoka,Alberta,Canada T4J 1M4 ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Feb 26 16:29:35 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0trA5D-0000v2a; Mon, 26 Feb 96 13:03 PST X-Path: aol.com!GCmagazine From: GCmagazine@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Glass Craft Expo? Date: Mon, 26 Feb 1996 16:01:05 -0500 Message-ID: <1996Feb26.1115.0> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk For All, I've come across a number of requests for information regarding the upcoming Glass Expo in Las Vegas. So here's some. The show will be held March 28 thru 31, 1996 at the Cashman Field Convention Center. Headquarter hotel is the Showboat (800-826-2800). Secondary hotel is the Golden Nugget (800-828-6206). The workshop lineup for this year's show is impressive indeed. here's a partial list of instructors: Linda Abbott and John Smith, Kay Bain Weiner, Julie Bishop Day, Kathy Bradford, Norm & Ruth Dobbins, Newy Fagan, Dan Fenton, Tommy "G" Giambusso, Cindy Jenkins, Alicia Larson, Rachel Martin, Peter McGrain, Kevin O'Grady, Joe Porcelli, Narcissus Quagliata, Phil Teefy, Debra Vantol and more. Workshops included torch-made marbles, Tiffany style lampmaking, advanced lead and reinforcement techniques, fusing, slumping & kiln work, photographing your glass, kiln-formed jewelry, sandblasting, how to use art glass, success as a professional stained glass designer, how to start a stained glass business, sculptural mosaic wall art, decorative soldering, marketing by mail, stained glass problem solving, and much, much more. To top it off, it's in Las Vegas! If you're interested, hurry up and call Las Vegas Management at 1-800-217-4527 or (702) 734-0070, fax at (702) 734-0636. They'll send you a great brochure with complete information and registration instructions. This promises to be a great show, and the only thing that can make it better is you! Hope to see you there. Joe Porcelli ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Feb 26 16:38:13 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0trAaZ-0000n7a; Mon, 26 Feb 96 13:36 PST X-Path: ccinet.ab.ca!kgreenwell From: kgreenwell@ccinet.ab.ca (Pat Greenwell) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Glass polish Date: Mon, 26 Feb 1996 14:26:06 -0700 Message-ID: <9602262126.AA07044@bach.ccinet.ab.ca> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk >I have a question regarding glass polish. I recently consigned some items >with a local gift boutique, and I need to know if there are other things you >can use to polish your finished projects with besides the "Stained Glass >Finishing Compound" I use. What do you tell people who buy items to use for >polish? > >I'm so glad that I found this group, people who understand my questions and >are going through, or have been through, the same things I am. Thanks so >much for all your help! > >Just an interesting side note...in a class I'm taking right now geared >towards beginners, the instructor told the students that if their glass gets >too hot while soldering, keep a spray bottle full of water handy so you can >spray it to cool it down!!! Have I missed something along the way or is that >the most ludicrous thing I ever hear of!?!? > Hi Debby: Re Glass Polish I have been doing glass on a commercial basis for 5 years, and I have been very pleased with car polish for my products. I always use Turtle wax (liquid) and it does a great job of keeping that white powder from developing on the solder lines.I think that stuff has a lot to do with humidity-a problem that we don't have here on the prairies. Before buying specialty glass products, I try to analyze what job I need it to do and look around the house or the local hardware store for for something that will work just as well. For example, shampoo and dishwashing detergents both work well to remove flux and oil. Anyway give Turtle Wax a try Pat ---------------------------------------------------- "Genealogist": An ancestrally-challenged individual. ---------------------------------------------------- kgreenwell@ccinet.ab.ca Pat Greenwel 5302 57th St., Ponoka,Alberta,Canada T4J 1M4 ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Feb 26 16:59:44 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0trDky-000051a; Mon, 26 Feb 96 16:59 PST X-Path: pilot.msu.edu!rosochac From: "Lisa Anne Rosochacki" To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Foilers Date: Mon, 26 Feb 1996 19:58:50 -0500 (EST) Message-ID: <199602270058.TAA67677@pilot01.cl.msu.edu> References: <<199602262047.AA15727@relay.interserv.com>> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk I tend to find foilers to be tedious...not that foiling in itself isn't, but I think that you get a better foiling job with your hands. I do like to you a nylon burnisher and the foilmate roller... the nylon burnisher works good, especially for the corners and the foilmate roller makes the whole burnishing process go pretty fast....all you have to do is roll it along the edges and then it's on to the next pieces. Lisa p.s. A friend of mine had a friend that loved to foil. She would sit for hours and just foil... I wish that she worked for free... I would have her work on a Tiffany lamp for me. :) ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Feb 26 17:09:42 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0trDuC-0000ola; Mon, 26 Feb 96 17:08 PST X-Path: ix.netcom.com!izzy3 From: izzy3@ix.netcom.com (Michael Smoucha ) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Glass polish Date: Mon, 26 Feb 1996 17:08:31 -0800 Message-ID: <199602270108.RAA15038@ix7.ix.netcom.com> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk You wrote: > >I have a question regarding glass polish. I recently consigned some items >with a local gift boutique, and I need to know if there are other things you >can use to polish your finished projects with besides the "Stained Glass >Finishing Compound" I use. What do you tell people who buy items to use for >polish? > Whatever you use as a solvent try using crumlped newspaper or excelsior (that is the stuff that looks like hay that many things come packed in.) Either of these things is slightly more abrasive and clean and polish better without scratching. ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Feb 26 17:22:37 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0trE6q-0000Hva; Mon, 26 Feb 96 17:21 PST X-Path: shr.stanford.edu!claudio From: Claudio Franchi To: glass@bungi.com Subject: info Date: Mon, 26 Feb 1996 17:26:16 -0800 Message-ID: <31325DB8.31E8@shr.stanford.edu> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Hi, How can I subscribe to this list? Bye, Claudio -- ******************************************************************** Claudio Franchi claudio@shr.stanford.edu Industrial Design student - Junior year/Academy of Art C./SF/USA ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Feb 26 18:31:00 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0trF8D-0000e5a; Mon, 26 Feb 96 18:27 PST X-Path: idirect.com!mrum From: mrum@idirect.com (mike & carol) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Newbie Questions Date: Mon, 26 Feb 1996 21:27:00 -0500 Message-ID: <199602270227.VAA22016@lucid.idirect.com> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk >Hello All, >I am a newbie to stained glass. I took a class around October last >year in copper foil. Anyway, I haven't done anything >since Christmas, but got back to it this weeknd. I am noticing >something weird and wonder if you all might have some answers. > >As I am soldering the piece it seems if the stickum from the foil >is getting too hot and oozing out the edges. When I get done and >start to clean the piece I notice this gummy stuff around the edges >of the seams. It's kind of like when you take a price sticker off >of something and it leaves some stickum behind. I did not have >this problem before using the same equipment (Weller 100) and materials. >I also was trying something I read about where you put copper wire around >the outside of a piece that is too irregularly shaped for came. I >can't seem to get a nice bead to form around this - any hints? >Lastly, I have problems getting foil to burnish to textured glass and >was wondering if anybody had advice on this point. >Thanks so much, >Becky Hi Becky, this is Carol Sounds like you might be leaving the iron on the foil/solder too long and are actually melting the adhesive. Try wiping the iron tip on your damp sponge before starting to solder each seam and clean (wipe) the tip frequently. This also tends to cool the tip and may reduce the problem. Another thing you could do would be to put a slightly damp cloth under the glass. Have to be careful not to un-level (!) the piece. If the foil is not adhering well to the glass, could be old foil, or a brand with a not too great adhesive or the glass isn't clean enough. Good luck Carol http://web.idirect.com/~studio Mississauga, Ontario ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Feb 26 18:31:02 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0trF8z-0000hra; Mon, 26 Feb 96 18:28 PST X-Path: idirect.com!mrum From: mrum@idirect.com (mike & carol) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: copper foil Date: Mon, 26 Feb 1996 21:27:48 -0500 Message-ID: <199602270227.VAA22100@lucid.idirect.com> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk >Hi everyone, >My first time to post. I must say though I really appreciate the talk and >helpful information I am finding. > >My question. I work primarily in lead came, doing almost nothing in copper >foil. I want to start. I want to do a window for my bathroom, 27 X 48 >inches. It is the Grandma's Trellis design from Martina, vol. II. Would >copper foiling this be a good idea or should I use lead came, considering >the size? What about reinforcement if I do copper foil? >Any suggestions would be most appreciated! >Jolene Welcome Jolene, this is Carol Copper foil is great for your project. I did a bathroom window as well, 24x36 and was told not to reinforce it. You might want to put a zinc came channel around it to finish it a bit more. Just be sure when its installed to have it securely attached to the window frame. Good luck ******************************************* Mike and Carol Rumak Mississauga, Ontario Canada Visit Carols Stained Glass Gallery at: http://web.idirect.com/~studio ******************************************* ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Feb 26 18:31:13 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0trF9B-0000hza; Mon, 26 Feb 96 18:28 PST X-Path: idirect.com!mrum From: mrum@idirect.com (mike & carol) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Glass polish Date: Mon, 26 Feb 1996 21:27:57 -0500 Message-ID: <199602270227.VAA22131@lucid.idirect.com> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk >I have a question regarding glass polish. I recently consigned some items >with a local gift boutique, and I need to know if there are other things you >can use to polish your finished projects with besides the "Stained Glass >Finishing Compound" I use. What do you tell people who buy items to use for >polish? > >I'm so glad that I found this group, people who understand my questions and >are going through, or have been through, the same things I am. Thanks so >much for all your help! > >Just an interesting side note...in a class I'm taking right now geared >towards beginners, the instructor told the students that if their glass gets >too hot while soldering, keep a spray bottle full of water handy so you can >spray it to cool it down!!! Have I missed something along the way or is that >the most ludicrous thing I ever hear of!?!? > >Debby Hi Debby, this is Carol IMHO, that instructor is crazy!!! Sounds like a very quick way to break some glass. If the glass gets too hot, they are 'playing' with the solder. Do it slowly, do it once. If you keep going over a seam, the adhesive will leak, solder will drip through, the glass could crack . . . I still prefer a wax of some kind to polish glass. The finishing compound is good, its a petroleum based wax. Nobody has come back to me with polishing ?s. So far, so good? There's bound to be an answer somewhere in the group. Good luck ******************************************* Mike and Carol Rumak Mississauga, Ontario Canada Visit Carols Stained Glass Gallery at: http://web.idirect.com/~studio ******************************************* ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Feb 26 18:31:17 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0trF8j-0000aga; Mon, 26 Feb 96 18:27 PST X-Path: idirect.com!mrum From: mrum@idirect.com (mike & carol) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Gatewayed mail message Date: Mon, 26 Feb 1996 21:27:31 -0500 Message-ID: <199602270227.VAA22056@lucid.idirect.com> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk >I have a question about grinding also beings that seems to be the going >topic these days. Since I have not been working with stained glass long >I'm not sure whether my question is a dumb one, but I'll ask it anyway. >When I grind a chalky white substance is always left on my glass. What >is this and how can I prevent it from happening? I assume it is glass >particles, but it is really annoying for the fact that I have to clean >off every single piece of glass before I can copper foil it, because if I >don't the copper foil won't stick. I hope this question is not one that >I should know from common sense, but I would love to know a way to >prevent this from happening. It would save me a great deal of time when >I get ready to copper foil! > Hi Shannon, this is Carol Yes those are glass particles. If they are heavy, maybe your small wet sponge behind the grinder head is too small and not hitting the head or not wet enough. I use a kerosene fed cutter so need to clean each piece of glass thoroughly to make sure the foil sticks. By using well fitted pattern templates and careful cutting, my grinding has been greatly reduced, but still carefully clean or wipe dry each piece. Hope this helps Carol Mississauga, Ontario ******************************************* Mike and Carol Rumak Mississauga, Ontario Canada Visit Carols Stained Glass Gallery at: http://web.idirect.com/~studio ******************************************* ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Feb 26 21:25:20 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0trHlk-0000o5a; Mon, 26 Feb 96 21:16 PST X-Path: aol.com!Glas4me From: Glas4me@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Glass polish Date: Tue, 27 Feb 1996 00:15:52 -0500 Message-ID: <1996Feb26.191552.0> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Believe it or not Dorothy, the instructor is not a store owner. However, she does recommend stores for us to purchase glass at. Kickbacks maybe?!? ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Feb 26 21:26:36 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0trHmK-0000JAa; Mon, 26 Feb 96 21:16 PST X-Path: aol.com!Glas4me From: Glas4me@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: What to tell customers to use to polish glass besides finishing Date: Tue, 27 Feb 1996 00:16:04 -0500 Message-ID: <1996Feb26.19164.0> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Thanks for your response, but I have another question. What exactly is glass wax? Is it something you buy at the grocery store next to the Windex? Hope that isn't too stupid a question... Debby ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Feb 26 21:27:08 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0trHmq-0000Jta; Mon, 26 Feb 96 21:17 PST X-Path: aol.com!Glas4me From: Glas4me@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Glass polish Date: Tue, 27 Feb 1996 00:16:18 -0500 Message-ID: <1996Feb26.191618.0> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Hi Carol. Yeah, I thought the instructor was crazy too, but I wanted to make sure that I wasn't the only one to think so. On going over a seam more than once. I am never completely happy with a seam, so I tend to go over it many times. I do get that goo that oozes out, but my question is this. Is anyone ever completely happy with their soldering? I'm sure you professionals are, so is it just a matter of practice makes perfect? I tend to be a perfectionist so it's very frustrating. Debby ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Feb 26 21:27:48 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0trHmr-0000Lpa; Mon, 26 Feb 96 21:17 PST X-Path: aol.com!Glas4me From: Glas4me@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Thanks Date: Tue, 27 Feb 1996 00:16:03 -0500 Message-ID: <1996Feb26.19163.0> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Shannon, Speaking as a relative beginner, I never learned to use one of those foilers. Right from the start I foiled by hand...although I do use Vicki Paynes foilmate. Once I tried to use one of those brown and orange colored foiler things, someone offered to give it to me if I wanted it. I hated it. However, if you started foiling by using one of those things, you'd probably like it. I think it depends on what you're comfortable with. Debby ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Feb 26 21:29:15 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0trHmq-0000LHa; Mon, 26 Feb 96 21:17 PST X-Path: aol.com!Glas4me From: Glas4me@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Glass Craft Expo? Date: Tue, 27 Feb 1996 00:17:05 -0500 Message-ID: <1996Feb26.19175.0> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Another plug for the Glass Expo in Las Vegas. I took 2 classes from Tommy "G" Giambusso-"Boom" at a workshop in Orlando Florida last October. It was terrific! The classes I took from him were in beginning leading. He's a dynamic instructor...very knowledgeable, energetic, and funny. "Let's all give him a golf clap!" Anyway, I would definately recommend taking a class from him. I know I would if I could only afford to again!! Debby ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Feb 26 21:29:36 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0trHmr-0000Lta; Mon, 26 Feb 96 21:17 PST X-Path: aol.com!Glas4me From: Glas4me@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Glass polish Date: Tue, 27 Feb 1996 00:16:17 -0500 Message-ID: <1996Feb26.191617.0> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Thanks I hadn't heard about using crumpled newspaper or excelsior (sp) before for polishing. I'll have to give it a try. Debby ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Feb 27 05:55:32 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0trPrW-0000yxa; Tue, 27 Feb 96 05:54 PST X-Path: mail.utexas.edu!kgbryant From: kgbryant@mail.utexas.edu (Kelly Bryant) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Glass Craft Expo? Date: Tue, 27 Feb 1996 07:54:26 -0600 Message-ID: Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk >Another plug for the Glass Expo in Las Vegas. I took 2 classes from Tommy >"G" Giambusso-"Boom" at a workshop in Orlando Florida last October. It was >terrific! The classes I took from him were in beginning leading. He's a >dynamic instructor...very knowledgeable, energetic, and funny. "Let's all >give him a golf clap!" Anyway, I would definately recommend taking a class >from him. I know I would if I could only afford to again!! > Hey, Everyone: I have received many messages about the Vegas expo. Where can I get a list of other workshops around the country? Any ideas? I am in Texas and can't spend alot of money going to the workshop. Is there any sight on the Web that might have this? Kelly ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Feb 27 07:01:00 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0trQr5-0000qpa; Tue, 27 Feb 96 06:58 PST X-Path: livnet.com!shadow From: "Ginger M. Carl" To: glass@bungi.com Subject: wire Date: Tue, 27 Feb 1996 09:58:35 -0500 Message-ID: <2.2.32.19960227145835.0067cc64@livnet.com> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Hello everyone, I have a simole question for anyone who might know the answer. I'm making a rosebud out of Carolyn Kyles' Sensational Suncatchers and I can't remember if the wire for the stem goes between the glass as you're tinning it of do you wait and put it on after you finish soldering a bead? Thanks in advance if anyone can help me. Ginger ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Feb 27 12:29:52 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0trW0e-00012ja; Tue, 27 Feb 96 12:28 PST X-Path: radix.net!triploid From: triploid@radix.net (triploid) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: When to start soldering?? Date: Tue, 27 Feb 1996 15:24:13 -0500 Message-ID: <199602272024.PAA11228@news1.radix.net> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Hello Everyone, I am working on my first copper foil window project, 24"x36" comprised of about 550 pieces. As I work away, (I have cut out about 200 pieces of glass) the temptation to peel of the patterns, foil them and start tack soldering is overwhelming. So why not? Do you guys cut all the glass in a window before you start tacking it together? I would love to see how it looks but I am very reluctant to peel off the numbered patterns if I can't tack it together. Some of the pieces are similar and many are very small; I don't relish the task of figuring out which piece goes where if the table gets bumped or one of the cats kicks the glass on the floor(a daily event). ...and since I have made the effort to de-lurk, I have another question: Does a pistol grip glass cutter give the same control and agility as a straight cutter? I ask because after many hours of cutting, my fingers get stiff and sore. So I have considered trying the Toyo pistol grip as an alternative to my Toyo straight cutter. Thanks for all of the great tips, Stephan ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Feb 27 13:44:29 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0trXBd-00013qa; Tue, 27 Feb 96 13:43 PST X-Path: swin.edu.au!andreaking From: "Andrea King" To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Keeping up with the news Summary: Authenticated sender is Date: Wed, 28 Feb 1996 08:43:49 +0000 Message-ID: <199602272143.AA08655@lucy.swin.edu.au> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Organization: Swinburne University Precedence: bulk Hi everyone, Have been very busy both at "bill paying" job and stained glass. I have been reading posts though and am pleased with the activity going on. One thing I did do was to give my grinder a really thorough cleaning and took off the bit (no problems there) and moved it down a couple of mil and wammo, its like new. It was beginning to be a real effort to just grind off the sharp edges. Thanks for all the contributions. That's what I love about this group, someone is always asking and answering questions that will ultimately help all of us. Stephen, A couple of months ago I purchased my first straight cutter after using a pistol grip cutter since I started with glass a couple of years ago. I have to admit I am at times struggling with it (the straight cutter) as I tend to scratch instead of score and hence bad breaks. I seem to have no trouble with curves but give me a straight cut and I'll probably stuff it up, very frustrating when you have only a just the right amount of glass for a project. I find my pistol grip cutter does give me more control and is very comfortable to use for long periods. I guess I'll keep practising with my straight cutter but still prefer the pistol grip. My 2 cents worth anyway. Have more but will sent separately or this will end up an epic. Chat later Andrea ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Feb 27 15:39:09 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0trYxo-00013ta; Tue, 27 Feb 96 15:37 PST X-Path: alpha.netaccess.on.ca!tchivers From: "Tom Chivers" To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Fantasy in Glassworks Date: Tue, 27 Feb 1996 18:37:58 +0000 Message-ID: <199602272336.SAA16369@alpha.netaccess.on.ca> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Hi Gang, Some time ago, I remember someone speaking about Fantasy in Glassworks Glass Studio in Toronto. I was wondering if they put out a newsletter .I know of some glass studios that write a newletter monthly or bi-monthly and send it out to their mailing lists.I think there was some comparison to Delphi for mailorder. I hope if any one knows about FIGGS or has visited them,they can shed some light for me. Also,does anyone know if there are any shows such as theVegas Expo in Canada? Take care! Kathy ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Feb 27 16:41:24 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0trZvQ-0000cMa; Tue, 27 Feb 96 16:39 PST X-Path: prodigy.com!MPGP79B From: MPGP79B@prodigy.com (PEGGY M PALM) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: wire Date: Tue, 27 Feb 1996 19:34:30 EST Message-ID: <096.02248918.MPGP79B@prodigy.com> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Hi Ginger I put it between the glass pieces before tinning/soldering and tack it enough to make it stay put while I solder. Peggy > ....remember if the wire for the stem goes between the glass as you're tinning > it of do you wait and put it on after you finish soldering a bead? ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Feb 27 16:48:01 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tra19-0000f2a; Tue, 27 Feb 96 16:45 PST X-Path: prodigy.com!MPGP79B From: MPGP79B@prodigy.com (PEGGY M PALM) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: When to start soldering?? Date: Tue, 27 Feb 1996 19:34:32 EST Message-ID: <096.02248925.MPGP79B@prodigy.com> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Hi Stephan Glad you decided to delurk. This list was very quiet for a while, so it's great to see all this activity and new people joining in. :-) > soldering is overwhelming. So why not? Do you guys cut all the glass in a > window before you start tacking it together? Well, Stephan, I believed an instructor who said it was ok to foil and tack-as-you-go on a project which took months to complete. I discovered the hard way that foil and solder accumulate corrosion no matter how much you clean, keep it covered with plastic, etc. Soldering that thing was a MAJOR pain. I ended up polishing every line/tack with 0000 steel wool before fluxing to get the solder to flow. There were some tricky spots that were hard to clean well, which caused me to invent vocabulary which I would blush to share. I no longer foil and tack as I go. Maybe someone else knows how to make it work though! > I would love to see how it looks but I am very reluctant to peel off the numbered > patterns if I can't tack it together. You could try numbering the glass pieces themselves with a marker. There are several types and colors that work well on glass. Then, if you have a spare piece of clear glass, you could assemble your pieces on that to allow you to move it to a lightbox for viewing, while still keeping it together. Some cellophane tape can add a bit of temporary stability. If you tape down the outer pieces, the middle pieces will stay in place as long as you keep it horizontal and are reasonably careful. (I keep my cat in another part of the house while I do this. He loves to play with glass, too.) > ........So I have considered trying the Toyo pistol grip as an > alternative to my Toyo straight cutter. FWIW, I use a pistol grip cutter for most things, but I find that I like the old fashioned straight kind for tiny pieces. The pistol type is easier on your hands, I think. Good luck. Let us know how you progress.... Peggy ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Feb 27 16:53:34 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tra6W-0000gba; Tue, 27 Feb 96 16:50 PST X-Path: interserv.com!ebsousa From: ebsousa@interserv.com To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Glass wax Date: Tue, 27 Feb 1996 16:50:18 -0800 Message-ID: <199602280050.AA03767@relay.interserv.com> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Debby, Sorry, looks like only half my message got there. (I'm new to this).For polishing my projects I use Glass Wax which I found at my local hardware store with the cleaning products. I find it to work as well as the Stained Glass Finishing Compound but is less expensive. Donna Hickory Cottage Crafts ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Feb 27 16:53:42 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tra78-0000BTa; Tue, 27 Feb 96 16:51 PST X-Path: interserv.com!ebsousa From: ebsousa@interserv.com To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Glass Wax Date: Tue, 27 Feb 1996 16:51:02 -0800 Message-ID: <199602280051.AA03804@relay.interserv.com> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Debby, Sorry looks like only half my ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Feb 27 17:13:56 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0traQF-0000bMa; Tue, 27 Feb 96 17:11 PST X-Path: livnet.com!shadow From: "Ginger M. Carl" To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: wire Date: Tue, 27 Feb 1996 20:11:44 -0500 Message-ID: <2.2.32.19960228011144.0068fb38@livnet.com> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk At 07:34 PM 2/27/96 EST, you wrote: Dear Peggy, Thank you very much for your answer. I did what you said and it worked fine. Ginger >I put it between the glass pieces before tinning/soldering and tack it >enough to make it stay put while I solder. Peggy > > >> ....remember if the wire for the stem goes between the glass as >you're tinning >> it of do you wait and put it on after you finish soldering a bead? > >---- >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com >To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Feb 27 17:50:44 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0trb0P-0000eSa; Tue, 27 Feb 96 17:48 PST X-Path: ccinet.ab.ca!kgreenwell From: kgreenwell@ccinet.ab.ca (Pat Greenwell) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Foilers Date: Tue, 27 Feb 1996 18:45:06 -0700 Message-ID: <9602280145.AA16840@bach.ccinet.ab.ca> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Hi Lisa: It will sound weird but the TV is my favourite foiling tool. When I have to make a number of the same item,or anything with small pieces, I put the pieces in shallow box on a towel and plunk myself down in front of the TV. Foiling is pretty mindless, so I am always amazed at how fast it gets done. Give it a try! Pat ---------------------------------------------------- "Genealogist": An ancestrally-challenged individual. ---------------------------------------------------- kgreenwell@ccinet.ab.ca Pat Greenwel 5302 57th St., Ponoka,Alberta,Canada T4J 1M4 ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Feb 27 18:31:30 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0trbeG-0000nDa; Tue, 27 Feb 96 18:29 PST X-Path: ix.netcom.com!izzy3 From: izzy3@ix.netcom.com (Michael Smoucha ) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: When to start soldering?? Date: Tue, 27 Feb 1996 18:29:29 -0800 Message-ID: <199602280229.SAA20193@ix8.ix.netcom.com> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk You wrote: > >Hi Stephan > >> ........So I have considered trying the Toyo pistol grip as an >> alternative to my Toyo straight cutter. > >FWIW, I use a pistol grip cutter for most things, but I find that I >like the old fashioned straight kind for tiny pieces. The pistol type >is easier on your hands, I think. Good luck. Let us know how you >progress.... Peggy >The one good thing about a straight cutter is it improves your speed at cutting as you do not have to put the cutter down when you use your pliers or otherwise break your score. In a large project this can save an appreciable amount of time. Re: foil/corosion problem. If that much time does pass it is nearly imposible to keep the foil from coroding to the point of causing the difficulties you describe. plastic covering only slows the process slightly. best to foil and assembly in short order. >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com >To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Feb 27 20:37:45 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0trdcR-0000q8a; Tue, 27 Feb 96 20:36 PST To: rglass-1 X-Path: direct.ca!kmccullo From: direct.ca!kmccullo Subject: Re: wire Date: Tue Feb 27 20:35:58 1996 Message-ID: <96Feb27.203153-0800pdt.166264-340+552@aphex.direct.ca> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Hi Ginger, I'm note sure of which rose bud mean, but I would put the wire where you need the strength. If the stem is being used to support the rose I would put the stem between the glass. My opinion is that it looks cleaner that way. Happy soldering Karin >Hello everyone, > I have a simole question for anyone who might know the answer. I'm >making a rosebud out of Carolyn Kyles' Sensational Suncatchers and I can't >remember if the wire for the stem goes between the glass as you're tinning >it of do you wait and put it on after you finish soldering a bead? Thanks >in advance if anyone can help me. >Ginger > >---- >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com >To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Feb 28 05:20:15 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0trlZV-0000x0a; Wed, 28 Feb 96 05:05 PST X-Path: avery.med.virginia.edu!lbl From: Laurie Hall To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: When to start soldering?? Date: Wed, 28 Feb 1996 08:03:15 -0500 Message-ID: <199602281303.IAA14031@avery.med.Virginia.EDU> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk >>> ........So I have considered trying the Toyo pistol grip as an >>> alternative to my Toyo straight cutter. >> >>FWIW, I use a pistol grip cutter for most things, but I find that I >>like the old fashioned straight kind for tiny pieces. The pistol type >>is easier on your hands, I think. Good luck. Let us know how you >>progress.... Peggy Laurie from Virginia here. i developed a pain in the top of my hand near my wrist when I first started working in glass about 3 years ago (it's a hobby for me, not a money-making venture). Someone suggested that I try a pistol grip cutter. I still occasionally have a twinge or two, but using the pistol grip cutter has helped immensely. Laurie Hall E-mail: lbl@virginia.edu ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Feb 28 05:29:45 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0trliO-0000vKa; Wed, 28 Feb 96 05:14 PST X-Path: YaleVM.CIS.Yale.Edu!UCONNVM.UCONN.EDU!HCLADM02 From: HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: When to start soldering?? Date: Wed, 28 Feb 96 08:06:53 EST Message-ID: <960228.081250.EST.HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu> References: <<199602272024.PAA11228@news1.radix.net>> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk I'm sure I'd wait to solder. I'd want everything cut, ground and laid out before starting to foil. First, it gives me a final visual check that it'll all fit and I still like those colors. Second, every- thing invariably takes longer than anticipated, and I don't want stuff laying around oxidizing for longer than it has to. I learned the cut with a pencil grip and am not comfortable cutting curves with a pistol grip. However, I do a lot of picture frames and use a Morton jig to cut the straight lines. For that I swear by the pistol grip. This is the time of year I start drawing up new designs. What's hot in your area (besides angels?) -- Dorothy Kalahan, Interlibrary Loan (860) 679-2940 FAX (860) 679-4046 UCONN Health Center Library, POB 4003, Farmington CT 06034-4003 HCLADM02@UConnVM.uconn.edu ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Feb 28 06:49:57 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0trn00-0000wga; Wed, 28 Feb 96 06:37 PST X-Path: livnet.com!shadow From: "Ginger M. Carl" To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: wire Date: Wed, 28 Feb 1996 09:34:37 -0500 Message-ID: <2.2.32.19960228143437.00676f54@livnet.com> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Hi Karen, thank you very much for your response to my question. It worked fine. I love this news letter or what ever it is. Ginger >I'm note sure of which rose bud mean, but I would put the wire where you >need the strength. If the stem is being used to support the rose I would put >the stem between the glass. My opinion is that it looks cleaner that way. > >Happy soldering >Karin >>Hello everyone, >> I have a simole question for anyone who might know the answer. I'm >>making a rosebud out of Carolyn Kyles' Sensational Suncatchers and I can't >>remember if the wire for the stem goes between the glass as you're tinning >>it of do you wait and put it on after you finish soldering a bead? Thanks >>in advance if anyone can help me. >>Ginger >> >>---- >>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com >>To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com >>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass >> >> > >---- >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com >To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Feb 28 08:21:04 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0troXe-0000yCa; Wed, 28 Feb 96 08:15 PST X-Path: aol.com!GCmagazine From: GCmagazine@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Glass wax Date: Wed, 28 Feb 1996 11:15:16 -0500 Message-ID: <1996Feb28.61516.0> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Donna, You might want to try Simichrome Polish to enhance you copper patina lead lines. It gives your work a high polish that looks like gold. Give it a try. Joe Porcelli ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Feb 28 10:00:25 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0trq2p-0000Vfa; Wed, 28 Feb 96 09:52 PST X-Path: teleport.com!weaver51 From: Elaine & Howard Rubin To: Glass list Subject: Flux Date: Wed, 28 Feb 96 09:50:38 -0500 Message-ID: <199602281751.JAA20848@desiree.teleport.com> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk -- [ From: Elaine & Howard Rubin * EMC.Ver #2.5.02 ] -- Hi all, Howard here... I do mainly Odyssey lamps, some running on for 1 month until done. I use glass star flux, water soluable, and used sparingly, can go a month with a minimum of oxidation. Cover all exposed foil seams with solder (tinning is ok) that have ALL adjoining pieces in place. If you tend to make a "lifetime" project....one that drags on for months, I suggest an oil based flux. Under NO circumstances do I use the laco products, and when my students show up with it, I STRONGLY suggest dumping it out. I have had old laco coat my iron (1,100 unger) and have not been able to melt solder with it until I used a "sal" block repeatedly. If the fumes bother you, try a fan to blow the fumes away, or set up an exhaust system, or use a respirator. Enjoy...H -- Elaine and Howard, mastering technology one byte at a time! E-Mail address is...weaver51@teleport.com ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Feb 28 11:39:24 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0trrhy-0000uTa; Wed, 28 Feb 96 11:38 PST X-Path: GAS.UUG.Arizona.EDU!mdonovan From: Meghan E Donovan To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: copper foil Date: Wed, 28 Feb 1996 12:42:06 -0700 (MST) Message-ID: <1996Feb28.5426.0> References: <<199602270227.VAA22100@lucid.idirect.com>> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Really? Don't reinforce the glass? I was told that copper foil that wasn't reinforced over 24 x 24 was flirting with danger. Won't it eventually slump on you? On Mon, 26 Feb 1996, mike & carol wrote: > >Hi everyone, > >My first time to post. I must say though I really appreciate the talk and > >helpful information I am finding. > > > >My question. I work primarily in lead came, doing almost nothing in copper > >foil. I want to start. I want to do a window for my bathroom, 27 X 48 > >inches. It is the Grandma's Trellis design from Martina, vol. II. Would > >copper foiling this be a good idea or should I use lead came, considering > >the size? What about reinforcement if I do copper foil? > >Any suggestions would be most appreciated! > >Jolene > > Welcome Jolene, this is Carol > > Copper foil is great for your project. I did a bathroom window as well, > 24x36 and > was told not to reinforce it. You might want to put a zinc came channel > around it > to finish it a bit more. Just be sure when its installed to have it > securely attached > to the window frame. > > Good luck > ******************************************* > Mike and Carol Rumak > Mississauga, Ontario > Canada > > Visit Carols Stained Glass Gallery at: > http://web.idirect.com/~studio > ******************************************* > > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Feb 28 11:42:26 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0trrkv-0000p0a; Wed, 28 Feb 96 11:41 PST X-Path: GAS.UUG.Arizona.EDU!mdonovan From: Meghan E Donovan To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: What to tell customers to use to polish glass besides finishing Date: Wed, 28 Feb 1996 12:45:05 -0700 (MST) Message-ID: <1996Feb28.5455.0> References: <<1996Feb26.19164.0>> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk I always got the impression that glass wax was a thinker & more expensive version of Pledge. It also does a better job than Pledge, but I'm a college student, so I'd rather blow $8 on more solder or foil than wax... On Tue, 27 Feb 1996 Glas4me@aol.com wrote: > Thanks for your response, but I have another question. What exactly is glass > wax? Is it something you buy at the grocery store next to the Windex? Hope > that isn't too stupid a question... > > Debby > > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Feb 28 12:12:58 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0trrhy-0000uTa; Wed, 28 Feb 96 11:38 PST X-Path: GAS.UUG.Arizona.EDU!mdonovan From: Meghan E Donovan To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: copper foil Date: Wed, 28 Feb 1996 12:42:06 -0700 (MST) Message-ID: <1996Feb28.5426.0> References: <<199602270227.VAA22100@lucid.idirect.com>> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Really? Don't reinforce the glass? I was told that copper foil that wasn't reinforced over 24 x 24 was flirting with danger. Won't it eventually slump on you? On Mon, 26 Feb 1996, mike & carol wrote: > >Hi everyone, > >My first time to post. I must say though I really appreciate the talk and > >helpful information I am finding. > > > >My question. I work primarily in lead came, doing almost nothing in copper > >foil. I want to start. I want to do a window for my bathroom, 27 X 48 > >inches. It is the Grandma's Trellis design from Martina, vol. II. Would > >copper foiling this be a good idea or should I use lead came, considering > >the size? What about reinforcement if I do copper foil? > >Any suggestions would be most appreciated! > >Jolene > > Welcome Jolene, this is Carol > > Copper foil is great for your project. I did a bathroom window as well, > 24x36 and > was told not to reinforce it. You might want to put a zinc came channel > around it > to finish it a bit more. Just be sure when its installed to have it > securely attached > to the window frame. > > Good luck > ******************************************* > Mike and Carol Rumak > Mississauga, Ontario > Canada > > Visit Carols Stained Glass Gallery at: > http://web.idirect.com/~studio > ******************************************* > > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Feb 28 12:35:51 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0trrkv-0000p0a; Wed, 28 Feb 96 11:41 PST X-Path: GAS.UUG.Arizona.EDU!mdonovan From: Meghan E Donovan To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: What to tell customers to use to polish glass besides finishing Date: Wed, 28 Feb 1996 12:45:05 -0700 (MST) Message-ID: <1996Feb28.5455.0> References: <<1996Feb26.19164.0>> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk I always got the impression that glass wax was a thinker & more expensive version of Pledge. It also does a better job than Pledge, but I'm a college student, so I'd rather blow $8 on more solder or foil than wax... On Tue, 27 Feb 1996 Glas4me@aol.com wrote: > Thanks for your response, but I have another question. What exactly is glass > wax? Is it something you buy at the grocery store next to the Windex? Hope > that isn't too stupid a question... > > Debby > > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Feb 28 13:15:50 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0trtCj-0000m3a; Wed, 28 Feb 96 13:14 PST X-Path: mail.utexas.edu!kgbryant From: kgbryant@mail.utexas.edu (Kelly Bryant) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Glazing Date: Wed, 28 Feb 1996 15:14:25 -0600 Message-ID: Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk I am finishing up a lead window and I am now getting ready to glaze it. I was wondering if any of the pros out there had the steps I should be following. I have been doing copper foil pieces lately and I feel like I am missing something. Maybe I am just having a brain freeze, but I'd appreciate any tips ya'll had before I start glazing and messed up a great looking window. Kelly ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Feb 28 14:14:54 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tru7H-0000oua; Wed, 28 Feb 96 14:12 PST X-Path: swin.edu.au!andreaking From: "Andrea King" To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Glazing Summary: Authenticated sender is Date: Thu, 29 Feb 1996 09:12:32 +0000 Message-ID: <199602282212.AA08744@lucy.swin.edu.au> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Organization: Swinburne University Precedence: bulk > I am finishing up a lead window and I am now getting ready to glaze it. I > was wondering if any of the pros out there had the steps I should be > following. I have been doing copper foil pieces lately and I feel like I > am missing something. Maybe I am just having a brain freeze, but I'd > appreciate any tips ya'll had before I start glazing and messed up a great > looking window. > > Kelly Kelly, what do you man by glazing? Have you puttied and pollished yet? If its puttying time I have a recipe for putty thats excellent and can forward it, and the finishing process, if you like. Andrea ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Feb 28 14:40:34 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0truVf-0000oQa; Wed, 28 Feb 96 14:38 PST X-Path: aol.com!TMinich45 From: TMinich45@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Fantasy in Glassworks Date: Wed, 28 Feb 1996 17:38:00 -0500 Message-ID: <1996Feb28.12380.0> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk I really want my name removed from your list. This is ridiculous. Thanks ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Feb 28 14:45:29 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0trubq-0000rHa; Wed, 28 Feb 96 14:44 PST X-Path: mail.utexas.edu!kgbryant From: kgbryant@mail.utexas.edu (Kelly Bryant) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Glazing Date: Wed, 28 Feb 1996 16:44:18 -0600 Message-ID: Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk I would love it if you would forward that to me directly! Thanks so much. Kelly >If its puttying time I have a recipe for putty thats excellent and >can forward it, and the finishing process, if you like. > >Andrea >---- >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com >To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Feb 28 15:51:25 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0trvdU-0000zaa; Wed, 28 Feb 96 15:50 PST X-Path: comnet.ca!buckle From: Joe Buckle To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: digest Date: Wed, 28 Feb 1996 18:38:24 -0500 Message-ID: <199602282338.SAA22873@deathstar.comnet.ca> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk yes please unsubscribe. thank you. Joe. At 10:30 AM 2/24/96 PST, you wrote: >[In the message entitled "Re: digest" on Feb 24, 10:53, GCmagazine@aol.com writes:] >> dear Glass@Bungi.com >> >> Why am I getting all of your mail at our GCMAGAZINE address? > >Hi Joe: > >Someone from that address has asked to be added on to the stained >glass e-mail list. If you'd like to unsubscribe please let me know. > > >-- >Glenna Rand >gjr@bungi.com >---- >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com >To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > > Joe Buckle Russell, Ontario, Canada Tel:445-1059 ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Feb 28 15:52:47 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0trves-0000s6a; Wed, 28 Feb 96 15:51 PST X-Path: comnet.ca!buckle From: Joe Buckle To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: digest Date: Wed, 28 Feb 1996 18:39:47 -0500 Message-ID: <199602282339.SAA22884@deathstar.comnet.ca> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk At 10:30 AM 2/24/96 PST, you wrote: >[In the message entitled "Re: digest" on Feb 24, 10:53, GCmagazine@aol.com writes:] >> dear Glass@Bungi.com >> >> Why am I getting all of your mail at our GCMAGAZINE address? > >Hi Joe: > >Someone from that address has asked to be added on to the stained >glass e-mail list. If you'd like to unsubscribe please let me know. >> >-- >Glenna Rand >gjr@bungi.com >---- >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com >To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > >Glenna, thank you for your response. please unsubscribe me. thanks Joe. Joe Buckle Russell, Ontario, Canada Tel:445-1059 ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Feb 28 17:40:01 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0trxKx-0000OFa; Wed, 28 Feb 96 17:39 PST X-Path: moose.ncia.net!pegasus From: Paula Tibbetts To: Glass@Bungi.com Subject: mail Date: Wed, 28 Feb 1996 20:37:31 -0500 Message-ID: <199602290137.UAA09156@moose.ncia.net> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Dear Glass@Bungi.com A little while ago I subscribed to your mailing list. All of a sudden I have received 6 pieces of your mail. There are to:Meghan E. Donovan, Andrea King, Kelly Bryant, TMinich45@aol.com and two to Joe Buckle. Why am I receiving mail addressed to you? Let me know what the problem is. Thankyou Pegasus@moose.ncia.net ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Feb 29 06:04:43 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0ts8ok-0000Yfa; Thu, 29 Feb 96 05:54 PST X-Path: aol.com!Emdt1 From: Emdt1@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re:cleaning & polishing Date: Thu, 29 Feb 1996 08:52:45 -0500 Message-ID: <1996Feb29.35245.0> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Just to add to the info traveling thru cyberspace. I use Spray & Wash to clean all my glass after cutting & grinding and then again after soldering. After the patina is the color I want I polish the whole piece with Jubilee Kitchen Wax and buff with lambs wool. I haven't had any problems, just dust with a damp cloth. Keep up the info. Looking for a glass craft expo on the East Coast. ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Feb 29 06:46:05 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0ts9U6-0000RYa; Thu, 29 Feb 96 06:37 PST X-Path: mail.utexas.edu!kgbryant From: kgbryant@mail.utexas.edu (Kelly Bryant) To: glass@Bungi.com Subject: Re: mail Date: Thu, 29 Feb 1996 08:35:32 -0600 Message-ID: Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk >Dear Glass@Bungi.com > >A little while ago I subscribed to your mailing list. All of a sudden I have >received 6 pieces of your mail. There are to:Meghan E. Donovan, Andrea King, >Kelly Bryant, TMinich45@aol.com and two to Joe Buckle. Why am I receiving >mail addressed to you? Let me know what the problem is. >Thankyou >Pegasus@moose.ncia.net Are these messages glass related? If not, please foward any mail that you recieved that was address to Kelly Bryant to my address. Kelly ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Feb 29 06:50:46 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0ts9YE-0000PRa; Thu, 29 Feb 96 06:41 PST X-Path: eng.umd.edu!kepy From: "Ron S. Keplinger" To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re:cleaning & polishing Date: Thu, 29 Feb 1996 09:40:05 -0500 (EST) Message-ID: <199602291440.JAA01847@cappuccino.eng.umd.edu> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Did you really mean to say that you use 'Spray & Wash'? The laundry stain remover stuff? I would have never thought to use that! Thanks for all the useful tips! Tera Paul Olney, Maryland ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Feb 29 08:41:20 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tsBO4-0000jMa; Thu, 29 Feb 96 08:39 PST X-Path: gjr From: gjr@daver.bungi.com (Glenna Rand) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re:cleaning & polishing Date: Thu, 29 Feb 1996 08:38:45 PST Message-ID: Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk [In the message entitled "Re:cleaning & polishing" on Feb 29, 9:40, "Ron S. Keplinger" writes:] > Did you really mean to say that you use 'Spray & Wash'? The laundry > stain remover stuff? I would have never thought to use that! I was told by my teacher not to use anything that would have lanolin in it (as most dishsoaps do)....not sure of spray & wash.. -- Glenna Rand gjr@bungi.com ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Feb 29 10:42:56 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tsDHH-0000hwa; Thu, 29 Feb 96 10:40 PST X-Path: mailbox.iwaynet.net!mpriest From: "Melanie Priest" To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re:cleaning & polishing Summary: Authenticated sender is Date: Mon, 7 Nov 1994 13:43:44 +0000 Message-ID: <199602291838.NAA27766@iwaynet.net> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk please unsuscribe me to the lisrb ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Feb 29 11:47:18 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tsEHe-0000Hua; Thu, 29 Feb 96 11:45 PST X-Path: aol.com!W6CHUCKY From: W6CHUCKY@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re:cleaning & polishing Date: Thu, 29 Feb 1996 14:44:42 -0500 Message-ID: <1996Feb29.94442.0> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk take me off the mailing list ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Feb 29 11:58:07 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tsET1-0000xqa; Thu, 29 Feb 96 11:56 PST X-Path: aol.com!W6CHUCKY From: W6CHUCKY@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re:cleaning & polishing Date: Thu, 29 Feb 1996 14:56:29 -0500 Message-ID: <1996Feb29.95629.0> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk delete ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Feb 29 14:06:19 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tsGT5-0000lza; Thu, 29 Feb 96 14:04 PST X-Path: gr.cns.net!Pristine From: Pristine To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Glazing Date: Thu, 29 Feb 1996 18:07:02 -0800 Message-ID: <1996Feb29.1072.0> References: <<199602282212.AA08744@lucy.swin.edu.au>> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Organization: Pristine Glass Co. Precedence: bulk I have been waiting(lurking) for more on this thread. I am opinionated hence my lack of response. It's a controversial question. Putty. Andrea King wrote: Kelly Wrote: > > > I am finishing up a lead window and I am now getting ready to glaze it. I > > was wondering if any of the pros out there had the steps I should be > > following. I have been doing copper foil pieces lately and I feel like I > > am missing something. Maybe I am just having a brain freeze, but I'd > > appreciate any tips ya'll had before I start glazing and messed up a great > > looking window. > > > > Kelly > > Kelly, what do you man by glazing? Have you puttied and pollished yet? > > If its puttying time I have a recipe for putty thats excellent and > can forward it, and the finishing process, if you like. > > Andrea ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Feb 29 14:14:43 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tsGaQ-0000N3a; Thu, 29 Feb 96 14:12 PST X-Path: ix.netcom.com!izzy3 From: izzy3@ix.netcom.com (Michael Smoucha ) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Glazing Date: Thu, 29 Feb 1996 14:12:25 -0800 Message-ID: <199602292212.OAA25019@ix15.ix.netcom.com> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk You wrote: > >I am finishing up a lead window and I am now getting ready to glaze it. I >was wondering if any of the pros out there had the steps I should be >following. I have been doing copper foil pieces lately and I feel like I >am missing something. Maybe I am just having a brain freeze, but I'd >appreciate any tips ya'll had before I start glazing and messed up a great >looking window. > I don't quite understand the question. Exactly what do you want to know? ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Feb 29 15:59:55 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tsIFj-0000NLa; Thu, 29 Feb 96 15:59 PST X-Path: interserv.com!ebsousa From: ebsousa@interserv.com To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Glass Wax Date: Thu, 29 Feb 1996 15:58:34 -0800 Message-ID: <199602292358.AA18643@relay.interserv.com> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Debby, Sorry, I keep losing half of my message. To polish my glass pieces, I use Glass Wax, which I buy in the cleaning products section of my local hardware store. It seems to work just as well and is less expensive. Donna ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Feb 29 16:02:36 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tsIIN-0000gba; Thu, 29 Feb 96 16:02 PST X-Path: swin.edu.au!andreaking From: "Andrea King" To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Glazing Summary: Authenticated sender is Date: Fri, 1 Mar 1996 10:58:33 +0000 Message-ID: <199602292358.AA21418@lucy.swin.edu.au> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Organization: Swinburne University Precedence: bulk > From: Pristine > I have been waiting(lurking) for more on this thread. I am opinionated > hence my lack of response. It's a controversial question. Putty. To clarify, I hope because I feel like a complete dummy To me glazing a window is to INSTALL it when it is completed or, to have a broken window replaced with a plain piece of glass, you call a Glazier to repair it. I thought to PUTTY a lead came window was a pretty straight forward thing, part of the process. So what do you call it if you don't call it putty??????? Why is it controversial???? and I would love to hear your opinion..... Andrea ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Feb 29 16:46:39 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tsIym-0000ika; Thu, 29 Feb 96 16:45 PST X-Path: Wittenberg.EDU!cutler From: cutler@Wittenberg.EDU To: glass@bungi.com Subject: lampshade for a kerosene style lamp Date: Thu, 29 Feb 1996 19:45:16 EST Message-ID: <1996Mar1.04516.0> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Hi. all. I have been diverted from my stained glass projects by my new Shopsmith - actually a used one - but I am getting backl into glass finally. One of my neighbors has a tiffany lampshade seated on a glass shae of the sort used on kerosene lamps - I hope that creates the proper image for everyone. Since I don't know this neighbor welll enough to go ask, I was wondering if anyone could advise me about how to finisah the top of the shade tomake it strong enough to sit on a shade like that. Is there any difference in fact between that kind of lampshe and the ones we usually make to carry a light bulb? I have been reading all the polishing suggestions and find them useful. Thanks. Cutler Howard, how are things in Oregon these days? Does anybody know about suppliers in Arizona? I'm thinking of retiring to that state in afew years. Thanks in advance for any suggestions. ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Feb 29 16:48:30 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tsJ0P-00002Oa; Thu, 29 Feb 96 16:47 PST X-Path: comnet.ca!jlanasar From: Julian To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Gatewayed mail message Date: Thu, 29 Feb 1996 19:35:32 -0500 Message-ID: <199603010035.TAA13327@deathstar.comnet.ca> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Please cancel subscription. Deb. ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Feb 29 17:23:23 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tsJXx-0000cAa; Thu, 29 Feb 96 17:22 PST X-Path: idirect.com!mrum From: mrum@idirect.com (mike & carol) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Fantasy in Glassworks Date: Thu, 29 Feb 1996 20:22:00 -0500 Message-ID: <199603010122.UAA15040@lucid.idirect.com> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk >Hi Gang, > Some time ago, I remember someone speaking about Fantasy in >Glassworks Glass Studio in Toronto. > I was wondering if they put out a newsletter .I know of some >glass studios that write a newletter monthly or bi-monthly and send >it out to their mailing lists.I think there was some comparison to Delphi >for mailorder. > I hope if any one knows about FIGGS or has visited them,they can >shed some light for me. > Also,does anyone know if there are any shows such as theVegas Expo in Canada? > Take care! > Kathy Hi Kathy, this is Carol Sorry for the delay in responding. Fantasy In Glass Glassworks is in Toronto, 703 The Queensway 416 252 6868 Their mail-out is about every 2 months, at the editor's whim! and is amusing and informative. If you would like to e-mail me your snail mail address I would forward it to the store and ask them to respond direct to you. Hope this helps. ******************************************* Mike and Carol Rumak Mississauga, Ontario Canada Visit Carols Stained Glass Gallery at: http://web.idirect.com/~studio ******************************************* ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Feb 29 17:23:25 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tsJXx-0000dYa; Thu, 29 Feb 96 17:22 PST X-Path: idirect.com!mrum From: mrum@idirect.com (mike & carol) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: When to start soldering?? Date: Thu, 29 Feb 1996 20:22:02 -0500 Message-ID: <199603010122.UAA15047@lucid.idirect.com> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk >>>> ........So I have considered trying the Toyo pistol grip as an >>>> alternative to my Toyo straight cutter. >>> >>>FWIW, I use a pistol grip cutter for most things, but I find that I >>>like the old fashioned straight kind for tiny pieces. The pistol type >>>is easier on your hands, I think. Good luck. Let us know how you >>>progress.... Peggy > >Laurie from Virginia here. i developed a pain in the top of my hand near my >wrist when I first started working in glass about 3 years ago (it's a hobby >for me, not a money-making venture). Someone suggested that I try a pistol >grip cutter. I still occasionally have a twinge or two, but using the >pistol grip cutter has helped immensely. >Laurie Hall >E-mail: lbl@virginia.edu Laurie, this is Carol Where in VA are you? My sister is in Williamburg at W&M working on her Master's. She will be trying for Med school soon. Plse e-mail back if you can ******************************************* Mike and Carol Rumak Mississauga, Ontario Canada Visit Carols Stained Glass Gallery at: http://web.idirect.com/~studio ******************************************* ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Feb 29 17:23:37 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tsJYC-0000Ina; Thu, 29 Feb 96 17:22 PST X-Path: idirect.com!mrum From: mrum@idirect.com (mike & carol) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: What to tell customers to use to polish glass besides finishing Date: Thu, 29 Feb 1996 20:22:11 -0500 Message-ID: <199603010122.UAA15073@lucid.idirect.com> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk >I always got the impression that glass wax was a thinker & more expensive >version of Pledge. It also does a better job than Pledge, but I'm a >college student, so I'd rather blow $8 on more solder or foil than wax... > >On Tue, 27 Feb 1996 Glas4me@aol.com wrote: > >> Thanks for your response, but I have another question. What exactly is glass >> wax? Is it something you buy at the grocery store next to the Windex? Hope >> that isn't too stupid a question... >> >> Debby > But when your piece starts to oxidize and you end up with white crystals growing on it . . . FWIW and IMHO, if you're going to do something, do it well and therefore make it look the very best you can for your customer who paid for it . . . I have had people comment on how nicely the patina/solder shine and the silky feel of the glass, these are the little things that bring people back to buy more and gain you a positive reputation. In Canada, that bottle of finishing compound cost me $14. But it has lasted a long time. Much longer than another roll of foil. ******************************************* Mike and Carol Rumak Mississauga, Ontario Canada Visit Carols Stained Glass Gallery at: http://web.idirect.com/~studio ******************************************* ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Feb 29 19:00:09 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tsL46-0000sva; Thu, 29 Feb 96 18:59 PST X-Path: iconnect.net!rustyt From: rustyt@iconnect.net To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re:cleaning & polishing Date: Thu, 29 Feb 96 20:59 CST Message-ID: References: <<1996Feb29.95629.0>> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk The correct method of having yourself removed from a mailing list is to have the word "unsubscribe" in the "subject" area or as the body of the document. Just trying to be helpful. ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Mar 1 00:00:29 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tsPkN-0000o8a; Thu, 29 Feb 96 23:59 PST To: rglass-1 X-Path: aol.com!Glas4me From: Glas4me@aol.com Subject: Gatewayed mail message Date: Fri, 1 Mar 1996 02:59:20 -0500 Message-ID: <199603010759.CAA20282@emout05.mail.aol.com> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk lish glass besides finishing Mike and Carol, I know what you mean about the shiny patina and smooth feel of a piece that has been polished with the right stuff. I love it! I was mainly wondering about the purchaser...what would someone who doesn't have the $8.00 bottle of glass polish use to clean and polish their piece from time to time when it oxidizes? If it's polished correctly the first time, does it never need to be polished again? Just dusted from time to time? Debby ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Mar 1 00:01:04 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tsPkN-00010Qa; Thu, 29 Feb 96 23:59 PST X-Path: aol.com!Glas4me From: Glas4me@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: What to tell customers to use to polish glass besides finishing Date: Fri, 1 Mar 1996 02:59:19 -0500 Message-ID: <1996Feb29.215919.0> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk I know exactly what you mean about the $8.00 to be put to better use. I'll give Pledge a try. Thanks! Debby ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Mar 1 00:06:56 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tsPr3-0000jva; Fri, 1 Mar 96 00:06 PST X-Path: aol.com!BLFstar From: BLFstar@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: putty recipe Date: Fri, 1 Mar 1996 03:06:48 -0500 Message-ID: <1996Feb29.22648.0> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Andrea: Please post your receipe for all of us to enjoy. Thanks!.. Barbara ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Mar 1 00:28:01 1996 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tsQAd-0000Pha; Fri, 1 Mar 96 00:26 PST X-Path: aol.com!BLFstar From: BLFstar@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: 50/50 solder Date: Fri, 1 Mar 1996 03:26:27 -0500 Message-ID: <1996Feb29.222627.0> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Hi all! For the first time today I tried using 50/50 solder and had some troubling results. Let me describe what else I'm using. Hakko iron, Glastar flux and Canfield's 50/50. Had a great deal of trouble keeping my iron tip tinned - had lots of smoke and almost immediately the iron got dirty again. Since I've never used 50/50 before, I'm unsure if I've got a bad batch, my iron is too hot or what's going on. I regularly use the Hakko, Glastar flux and Canfield's other solders with good results. In trying to clean the iron, I tried sal ammoniac, the Hakko tip cleaner and the Glastar sponge. The sponge kept it cleanest the longest. What do you think was going on here? Thanks! Barbara ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass