From owner-glass Mon Jan  1 20:33:26 1996
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From: Elaine & Howard Rubin <weaver51@teleport.com>
To: Glass list <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Happy  and Good new Year
Date: Mon, 01 Jan 96 20:34:26 -0500
Message-ID: <199601020433.UAA18255@desiree.teleport.com>
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-- [ From: Elaine & Howard Rubin * EMC.Ver #2.5.02 ] --

Hi This is Howard....the title says it all
Enjoy...it is only glass
--
Elaine and Howard, mastering technology one byte at a time!
E-Mail address is...weaver51@teleport.com

From owner-glass Mon Jan  1 21:46:22 1996
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X-Path: gjr
From: gjr@daver.bungi.com (Glenna Rand)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Happy  and Good new Year
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 1996 21:45:58 PST
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> Hi This is Howard....the title says it all
> Enjoy...it is only glass

Happy New Year to you too!  Any new projects on the go for 96?
I myself am waiting for the leadcame class to start so I can
restore the antique panel my neighbor gave me.  (starts this
month I think).
Did you sell many pieces this Christmas?


-- 
Glenna Rand
gjr@bungi.com

From owner-glass Mon Jan  1 22:48:32 1996
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From: Michael White <mygon227@mci.newscorp.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Kalidoscopes
Date: Tue, 2 Jan 1996 01:39:44 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <199601020639.BAA03639@camus-s1.delphi.com>
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Is anyone out there making kalidoscopes?
And what kind of price you asking?
     !!!!
  !!!!!!!!
!!!!!!!!!!!   O_O          Michael A. White
!!!  !!!!!!! /@ @\     mygon227@beta.delphi.com
      !!!!!! \ x /
      !!!!!!/ m  !m
       !!!!/ __  |           Sometimes.....
       !!!!|/  \__        I feel like a nut!
        !!!\______\


From owner-glass Tue Jan  2 10:08:02 1996
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From: at994@yfn.ysu.edu (Karen Margala)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: none
Date: Tue, 2 Jan 1996 12:03:04 -0500
Message-ID: <199601021703.MAA05097@yfn.ysu.edu>
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Unsubscribe

From owner-glass Tue Jan  2 11:16:00 1996
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From: RICK KOLBAK <RKOLBAK@stf1.css.edu>
To: Stained Glass Listserve <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: FW: none
Date: Tue, 02 Jan 96 13:09:00 PST
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Does anyone out there no what this is? I've been getting a number of 
subscribe and unsubscribe messages? Thanks!
 ----------
From: at994
To: glass
Subject: none
Date: Tuesday, January 02, 1996 12:03PM



Unsubscribe

From owner-glass Tue Jan  2 11:16:03 1996
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From: RICK KOLBAK <RKOLBAK@stf1.css.edu>
To: Stained Glass Listserve <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: FW: none
Date: Tue, 02 Jan 96 13:10:00 PST
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Does anyone out the know what this is all about? I've been getting a number 
of subscribe and unsubscribe messages? Thanks!

RKolbak@stf1.css.edu
 ----------
From: at994
To: glass
Subject: none
Date: Tuesday, January 02, 1996 12:03PM



Unsubscribe

From owner-glass Tue Jan  2 12:56:36 1996
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From: RICK KOLBAK <RKOLBAK@stf1.css.edu>
To: Stained Glass Listserve <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: FW: Stained Glass Newsgroup
Date: Tue, 02 Jan 96 14:49:00 PST
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Additionally....does anyone know what this means?

RKolbak@stf1.css.edu
 ----------
From: CHRIS GRAHAM
To: glass
Subject: Stained Glass Newsgroup
Date: Saturday, December 30, 1995 7:49PM

subscribe cgraham@pc.jaring.my (Chris Graham)


From owner-glass Tue Jan  2 20:49:30 1996
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From: Michael White <mygon227@mci.newscorp.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: FW: Stained Glass Newsgroup
Date: Tue, 2 Jan 1996 23:38:47 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <199601030438.XAA18501@camus-s1.delphi.com>
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At 02:49 PM 1/2/96 PST, you wrote:
>
>Additionally....does anyone know what this means?
>
>RKolbak@stf1.css.edu
> ----------
>From: CHRIS GRAHAM
>To: glass
>Subject: Stained Glass Newsgroup
>Date: Saturday, December 30, 1995 7:49PM
>
>subscribe cgraham@pc.jaring.my (Chris Graham)
>^^^^^^^^^
>
This person is telling the listserver to add him to your mailing list.


From owner-glass Tue Jan  2 20:49:31 1996
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From: Michael White <mygon227@mci.newscorp.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: FW: none
Date: Tue, 2 Jan 1996 23:35:59 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <199601030435.XAA19979@camus-s1.delphi.com>
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At 01:09 PM 1/2/96 PST, you wrote:
>
>Does anyone out there no what this is? I've been getting a number of 
>subscribe and unsubscribe messages? Thanks!
> ----------
>From: at994
>To: glass
>Subject: none
>Date: Tuesday, January 02, 1996 12:03PM
>
>
>
>Unsubscribe
>
This is a list server command.  Listservers are kind of automated
mailmen.  You can subscribe to a mailing list through a listserver
and you will automatically get mail from that mailing list until
you unsubscribe from it.


From owner-glass Wed Jan  3 05:14:47 1996
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From: lcbell@memach.com (Linda J. Campbell)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Kalidoscopes
Date: Wed, 3 Jan 1996 08:04:33 -0500
Message-ID: <199601031304.IAA29844@raft.memach.com>
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Michael,

I haven't made any kaleidoscopes yet but I am really interested in trying. I
just found the group.  DH gave me two scopes for Christmas, one is a small
solid brass one about 3 inches long on a stand, with a wheel filled with
glass beads.  The other is larger, a teleidoscope, about 8 inches long and
covered with marbled paper.  Both are three mirrored.  The smaller one has a
magnifier lense at the eyepiece and cost him about $80.  The larger one has
a large thick glass at the end opposite the eyepiece and cost about $50 and
was made by Van Cort.  He got them at A Touch of Glass at Waterside.

I just went to my mother's house and begged her for a box of church window
stained glass scraps that she has been saving for about 30 years.  I was
successful, the scraps are now mine.  Some are large, about 10" x 5" but
most is small scraps.  I am eager to try my first scope - I have never even
cut glass yet so I'm going to practice on clear glass and my soldering
skills first.  How hard can this be?  

My question to any one who knows is:  Can you make any money selling to the
cragt show/flea market crowd or do you really have to get good enough to
make a name for yourself at the better shops for this to be profitable?

Rule of thumb, Michael for most crafts is the final cost is 2 to 3 times the
cost of the materials in the item.  Of course this varies with the amout of
work in a project and the demand for the product. 

Good luck.  Tell my what kinds of kaleidoscopes you make.

>Is anyone out there making kalidoscopes?
>And what kind of price you asking?
>     !!!!
>  !!!!!!!!
>!!!!!!!!!!!   O_O          Michael A. White
>!!!  !!!!!!! /@ @\     mygon227@beta.delphi.com
>      !!!!!! \ x /
>      !!!!!!/ m  !m
>       !!!!/ __  |           Sometimes.....
>       !!!!|/  \__        I feel like a nut!
>        !!!\______\
>
>


From owner-glass Thu Jan  4 07:58:33 1996
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From: RICK KOLBAK <RKOLBAK@stf1.css.edu>
To: Stained Glass Listserve <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Subscription
Date: Thu, 04 Jan 96 09:44:00 PST
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I was wondering if I was still subscribed to the glass list, since I have 
been receiving some odd subscribe and unsubscribe messages. Please respond 
for verification. Thanks!

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Rick Kolbak                                RKolbak@stf1.css.edu
1119 East 10th Street
Duluth, MN  55805
Tel.: (218) 728-5695
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

From owner-glass Thu Jan  4 09:00:34 1996
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X-Path: mail.utexas.edu!kgbryant
From: kgbryant@mail.utexas.edu (Kelly Bryant)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Stained Glass Contests
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 1996 10:47:41 -0600
Message-ID: <v01530501ad1160ba1b29@[128.83.166.94]>
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I was wondering if anyone knew of any stained glass contests.  I have a
friend who quilts and she is always entering her work in contest and seems
to get some good feed back on improving her work.  Does anyone know of any
stained glass organizations that might be holding contests?

Thanks,
Kelly



From owner-glass Thu Jan  4 11:59:00 1996
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X-Path: vixa.voyager.net!delphigl
From: delphigl@voyager.net (Delphi Stained Glass)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Stained Glass Contests
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 1996 14:49:56 -0500
Message-ID: <199601041949.OAA22415@vixa.voyager.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

>I was wondering if anyone knew of any stained glass contests.  I have a
>friend who quilts and she is always entering her work in contest and seems
>to get some good feed back on improving her work.  Does anyone know of any
>stained glass organizations that might be holding contests?


Delphi Stained Glass is having 2 upcoming contests.  

1.  Project contest during our store's annual Art Glass Festival which
starts March 23, 1996.  Enter any project that you are proud of and
personally drop it off in our store in Lansing, Michigan.  I don't have firm
details on this contest, but will post them as soon as they are finalized.

2.  Delphi's 4th Annual Photo Contest


WE'RE LOOKING FOR A FEW GOOD PROJECTS!!

We would like to feature photos of outstanding work created by individuals
like yourself.  Do you have a piece of glass work you're particularly proud
of?  Send us a clean snapshot of the project - preferably with you in the
picture (we like to see the smiling faces of creative people!).  If we
publish the photo, you'll receive a $50.00 Delphi Gift Certificate.  Even if
you're not published, you will receive a nice gift just for entering.
Please write your name, address, and phone number (and your customer number
if you know it) on the back side of the photo(s) with a felt-tip pen (please
- no paperclips).  NOTE:  We will not be able to return your photo.  Entries
must be received no later than April 30, 1996.

Send your entries to:  Delphi Stained Glass, Attn:  Photo Contest, 2116 E.
Michigan Ave., Lansing MI 48912.


Photo Tips:

1.  For a panel with cathedral glass; try to avoid shooting against a "busy"
background because what shows through the glass will detract from your art work.
2. If you have an installed window, make sure there is plenty of light
shining from behind it to illuminate all the colors.
3.  Unless you're outside on a bright day, it helps to use a flash in almost
any setting.
4.  We would love to see you in the photo with your work.  But if that's not
possible, take a separate photo of yourself - we'll take care of the rest!


Thanks for your inquiry.  If I can be of further assistance, please let me know.


Stephanie
______________________________________________________________________
Stephanie Braman       **  E-mail:  delphigl@vixa.voyager.net
Delphi Stained Glass   **  WWW:     http://www.voyager.net/delphiglass
2116 E. Michigan Ave.  **  Voice:   1-800-248-2048 (USA,Canada)
Lansing, MI  48912     **           1-517-482-2617 (International)
USA                    **  Fax:     1-800-748-0374 (USA,Canada)
                                    1-517-482-4028 (International)
_____________________________________________________________________


From owner-glass Thu Jan  4 13:54:03 1996
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From: MPGP79B@prodigy.com (PEGGY M PALM)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Stained Glass Contests
Date: Thu, 04 Jan 1996 16:44:09 EST
Message-ID: <091.07925695.MPGP79B@prodigy.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

> I was wondering if anyone knew of any stained glass contests. ...

Kelly, the only such things I've ever heard of are a little different
than quilting competitions or challenges.  Delphi Stained Glass Supply
has people mail in photos of their projects.  The winners are featured
in the catalog.  If Stephanie is still on this list, she can probably
supply details.  I think Stained Glass News does something similar with
a page featuring reader projects, but I don't think either one is
intended to give the kind of feedback you're talking about.  Might be
something fun to start though!  Delphi is on the web now.  Maybe they
would be interested in organizing something.

Another thought:  Bulletin board groups on some servers arrange a
"round robin" for their members occasionally.  It involves having the
participants send photos of their work, along with comments,
explanations, etc. to a single individual.  That person makes them all
into 1 package, adds a list of the participants arranged in some
logical geographical order, and sends it to the 1st person on the list,
who sends it to the next, and so on, until it returns to the organizer.
He or she returns the photos to their owners.  People email the list
when they receive or send the package to help keep track of it. I
suppose you could ask for comments and suggestions if your photos were
clear enough to show specific details in this kind of system.  
Comments on specific items could be made by email directly to those who
ask for feedback.

Anyone interested?           Peggy

An aside to Rick:  You're coming through loud and clear here.  :)




From owner-glass Thu Jan  4 17:57:25 1996
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X-Path: idirect.com!mrum
From: mrum@idirect.com (mike & carol)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Stained Glass Contests
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 1996 20:54:25 -0500
Message-ID: <199601050154.UAA03554@lucid.idirect.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

>> I was wondering if anyone knew of any stained glass contests. ...
>
>Kelly, the only such things I've ever heard of are a little different
>than quilting competitions or challenges.  Delphi Stained Glass Supply
>has people mail in photos of their projects.  The winners are featured
>in the catalog.  If Stephanie is still on this list, she can probably
>supply details.  I think Stained Glass News does something similar with
>a page featuring reader projects, but I don't think either one is
>intended to give the kind of feedback you're talking about.  Might be
>something fun to start though!  Delphi is on the web now.  Maybe they
>would be interested in organizing something.
>
>Another thought:  Bulletin board groups on some servers arrange a
>"round robin" for their members occasionally.  It involves having the
>participants send photos of their work, along with comments,
>explanations, etc. to a single individual.  That person makes them all
>into 1 package, adds a list of the participants arranged in some
>logical geographical order, and sends it to the 1st person on the list,
>who sends it to the next, and so on, until it returns to the organizer.
>He or she returns the photos to their owners.  People email the list
>when they receive or send the package to help keep track of it. I
>suppose you could ask for comments and suggestions if your photos were
>clear enough to show specific details in this kind of system.  
>Comments on specific items could be made by email directly to those who
>ask for feedback.
>
>Anyone interested?           Peggy
>
>An aside to Rick:  You're coming through loud and clear here.  :)
>
Hi Peggy, this is Carol in Mississauga, ON Canada

I'm interested!!   We don't have a scanner though, could snail-mail the
photo . . .
 It's difficult to get good pictures of glass though.  I've had the flash
either blow out color or change it all together.

New glass web site to check out!!  http://web.idirect.com/~studio

t t y l

Carol


From owner-glass Thu Jan  4 20:45:54 1996
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From: "Andrea King" <andreaking@swin.edu.au>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Subscribe
Summary: Authenticated sender is <andreaking@gpo.swin.edu.au>
Date: Tue, 2 Jan 1996 11:33:56 +0000
Message-ID: <199601050444.AA01477@lucy.swin.edu.au>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Swinburne University
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subscribe andreaking@swin.edu.au

From owner-glass Thu Jan  4 20:48:50 1996
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Subject: Subscribe
Summary: Authenticated sender is <andreaking@gpo.swin.edu.au>
Date: Fri, 5 Jan 1996 15:46:27 +0000
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Please subscribe me to the list andreaking@swin.edu.au

From owner-glass Fri Jan  5 05:27:36 1996
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X-Path: vixa.voyager.net!delphigl
From: delphigl@voyager.net (Delphi Stained Glass)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Stained Glass Contests
Date: Fri, 5 Jan 1996 08:14:03 -0500
Message-ID: <199601051314.IAA28437@vixa.voyager.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Peggy,

>Another thought:  Bulletin board groups on some servers arrange a
>"round robin" for their members occasionally.  It involves having the
>participants send photos of their work, along with comments,
>explanations, etc. to a single individual.  That person makes them all
>into 1 package, adds a list of the participants arranged in some
>logical geographical order, and sends it to the 1st person on the list,
>who sends it to the next, and so on, until it returns to the organizer.
>He or she returns the photos to their owners.  People email the list
>when they receive or send the package to help keep track of it. I
>suppose you could ask for comments and suggestions if your photos were
>clear enough to show specific details in this kind of system.  
>Comments on specific items could be made by email directly to those who
>ask for feedback.

Sounds like great fun!  I would be very interested in organizing this "round
robin".  If you are interested, please email me at SKBraman@aol.com and we
can work out when photos should be snail mailed and they can be mailed to my
personal address (so the pics are not mixed up with the pics for Delphi's
photo contest).

Also another idea....I'm not sure where all of the subscribers are from, but
it might be worth considering having a "glass reunion" where we can meet for
a day or two, share stained glass ideas and questions, critique finished
projects, etc.  What do you think?

Stephanie
______________________________________________________________________
Stephanie Braman       **  E-mail:  delphigl@vixa.voyager.net
Delphi Stained Glass   **  WWW:     http://www.voyager.net/delphiglass
2116 E. Michigan Ave.  **  Voice:   1-800-248-2048 (USA,Canada)
Lansing, MI  48912     **           1-517-482-2617 (International)
USA                    **  Fax:     1-800-748-0374 (USA,Canada)
                                    1-517-482-4028 (International)
_____________________________________________________________________


From owner-glass Fri Jan  5 05:57:03 1996
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X-Path: YaleVM.CIS.Yale.Edu!UCONNVM.UCONN.EDU!HCLADM02
From:         HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu
To:           glass@bungi.com
Subject:      Too quiet
Date:         Fri, 05 Jan 96 08:40:13 EST
Message-ID:   <960105.084554.EST.HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Those subscribe and unsubscribe messages are just people who aren't
sure how to do it, so they send messages to the list instead of the
listserv.  We were all confused once.  (When I first started, I could
NOT figure out what all those instructions meant, but that's a long
story...)  Anyway, we seem to all hunkered down against the cold,
recovering from the holidays, recovering from craft fair season, whatever.
There's talk over on the news group, but we've gotten quiet.  So, this
is a new year.  Is there something you'd really like to make this year?
I'd like to mess with mosaic and experiment with etching/engraving and
glass paints

--
Dorothy Kalahan, Interlibrary Loan  (860) 679-2940  FAX (860) 679-4046
UCONN Health Center Library, POB 4003, Farmington CT 06034-4003
HCLADM02@UConnVM.uconn.edu

From owner-glass Fri Jan  5 06:22:51 1996
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X-Path: mail.utexas.edu!kgbryant
From: kgbryant@mail.utexas.edu (Kelly Bryant)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Stained Glass Contests
Date: Fri, 5 Jan 1996 08:00:52 -0600
Message-ID: <v01530500ad1289cdccd7@[128.83.166.94]>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


Hi Peggy and everyone else!

I think it would be fun to have some kind of contest or "round robin" it
can never hurt to have another peers opinions.  Someone mentioned that
taking pictures of stained glass did not come out very well.  I just took a
roll in with pictures of all of the projects that I have done.  I hope they
look OK.  I'll let you know.  Anyway, if anyone has tips on how we can get
things started, please send in your ideas.

Also, has anyone had any success with find any stained glass software to
assist in making patterns?  I have been looking through catologs, but so
far have only seen on package and it seemed to be more for making lamp
pattern.

Hope everyone has a good weekend.

Kelly



From owner-glass Fri Jan  5 07:25:36 1996
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From: kgbryant@mail.utexas.edu (Kelly Bryant)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Too quiet
Date: Fri, 5 Jan 1996 09:08:49 -0600
Message-ID: <v01530502ad1296e8dfe3@[128.83.166.94]>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


Dorothy:

I too have been thinking about doing some mosaics, but havn't tried it yet.
Does it require any other tools that are not used in stained glass.
Mosaic seems like a great way to get rid of those glass scraps that are too
small for most stained glass projects.  I'd love to hear any tips from
those of you who have already attempted it.

Now that I am done with X-Mas gifts.  I am really looking forward to
starting on a new window for me.  It is a peacock (excuse my spelling).  I
have found the most brillant blue.  It is going to look great.

So anyway, that is what I will be working on for awhile.

K



From owner-glass Fri Jan  5 08:40:06 1996
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From: gjr@daver.bungi.com (Glenna Rand)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Too quiet
Date: Fri, 5 Jan 1996 08:21:11 PST
Message-ID: <m0tYEtS-0000GIC@daver.bungi.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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[In the message entitled "Re: Too quiet" on Jan  5,  9:08, Kelly Bryant writes:]
> 

> I too have been thinking about doing some mosaics, but havn't tried it yet.
> Does it require any other tools that are not used in stained glass.
> Mosaic seems like a great way to get rid of those glass scraps that are too
> small for most stained glass projects.  I'd love to hear any tips from
> those of you who have already attempted it.
> 


I have also been interested in doing some mosaic pieces.  I was wondering
what type of grout to use though (without buying a kit).  Any
suggestions would be much appreciated.

-- 
Glenna Rand
gjr@bungi.com

From owner-glass Fri Jan  5 11:11:21 1996
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X-Path: gjr
From: gjr@daver.bungi.com (Glenna Rand)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Stained Glass Contests
Date: Fri, 5 Jan 1996 08:35:23 PST
Message-ID: <m0tYF7G-0000lEC@daver.bungi.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

[In the message entitled "Re: Stained Glass Contests" on Jan  5,  8:14, Delphi Stained Glass writes:]
> it might be worth considering having a "glass reunion" where we can meet for
> a day or two, share stained glass ideas and questions, critique finished
> projects, etc.  What do you think?
> 
Nice idea, but we have subscribers from all over the world. 

-- 
Glenna Rand
gjr@bungi.com

From owner-glass Fri Jan  5 11:18:14 1996
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X-Path: HUBNOV3.unb.ca!CRAFT
From: "Reg Craft" <CRAFT@unb.ca>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject:       custom bevels
Date:          Fri, 5 Jan 1996 15:14:51 GMT-400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization:  University of New Brunswick
Precedence: bulk

I have a leaded glass window that has been broken.  Six bevels need to 
be replaced.  Three are rectangular (one has an angled corner) and 
the other three are curved.  The glass is quite thick, approximately 
5/16 inches and the came is copper.  I need a source for custom 
bevels.  This window is about 60 - 70 years old and I would like to 
be able to repair it.  I have some old glass from which the bevels 
could be made; I now need someone who can make them.  You can reply 
to me directly or on this list.

This is my first posting to this list but I have been listening in 
for about two months.  I really enjoy this list and always look 
forward to what will be on it.
R. D. Craft
craft@unb.ca

From owner-glass Fri Jan  5 12:10:50 1996
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X-Path: vixa.voyager.net!delphigl
From: delphigl@voyager.net (Delphi Stained Glass)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: custom bevels
Date: Fri, 5 Jan 1996 15:09:31 -0500
Message-ID: <199601052009.PAA20691@vixa.voyager.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

>I have a leaded glass window that has been broken.  Six bevels need to 
>be replaced.  Three are rectangular (one has an angled corner) and 
>the other three are curved.  The glass is quite thick, approximately 
>5/16 inches and the came is copper.  I need a source for custom 
>bevels.  This window is about 60 - 70 years old and I would like to 
>be able to repair it.  I have some old glass from which the bevels 
>could be made; I now need someone who can make them.  You can reply 
>to me directly or on this list.
>
>This is my first posting to this list but I have been listening in 
>for about two months.  I really enjoy this list and always look 
>forward to what will be on it.
>R. D. Craft
>craft@unb.ca

We have a customer beveler that we refer our customers to.

Burton Studios
Port Huron, MI
1-810-985-7575

Stephanie
______________________________________________________________________
Stephanie Braman       **  E-mail:  delphigl@vixa.voyager.net
Delphi Stained Glass   **  WWW:     http://www.voyager.net/delphiglass
2116 E. Michigan Ave.  **  Voice:   1-800-248-2048 (USA,Canada)
Lansing, MI  48912     **           1-517-482-2617 (International)
USA                    **  Fax:     1-800-748-0374 (USA,Canada)
                                    1-517-482-4028 (International)
_____________________________________________________________________


From owner-glass Fri Jan  5 12:15:15 1996
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From: delphigl@voyager.net (Delphi Stained Glass)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Too quiet
Date: Fri, 5 Jan 1996 15:14:12 -0500
Message-ID: <199601052014.PAA20984@vixa.voyager.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


>I have also been interested in doing some mosaic pieces.  I was wondering
>what type of grout to use though (without buying a kit).  Any
>suggestions would be much appreciated.

You can use any type of tile grout.  The key is latex so that the grout is
not water-soluble.  Look either for grouts that already contain it and just
need to have water added (which are the ones that are currently on the
stained glass market), or you can purchase regular grout and use a liquid
latex additive.

Working with any type of grout is kind of hazardous, so be sure to use
adequate protection (latex gloves, respirator) and read all the directions!

Stephanie
______________________________________________________________________
Stephanie Braman       **  E-mail:  delphigl@vixa.voyager.net
Delphi Stained Glass   **  WWW:     http://www.voyager.net/delphiglass
2116 E. Michigan Ave.  **  Voice:   1-800-248-2048 (USA,Canada)
Lansing, MI  48912     **           1-517-482-2617 (International)
USA                    **  Fax:     1-800-748-0374 (USA,Canada)
                                    1-517-482-4028 (International)
_____________________________________________________________________


From owner-glass Fri Jan  5 12:19:51 1996
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X-Path: teleport.com!weaver51
From: Elaine & Howard Rubin <weaver51@teleport.com>
To: Glass list <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Mosaics
Date: Fri, 05 Jan 96 12:18:26 -0500
Message-ID: <199601052017.MAA19544@desiree.teleport.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

-- [ From: Elaine & Howard Rubin * EMC.Ver #2.5.02 ] --

I, too have been thinking of a way 
to use some of the 100's of pounds of ends, for me real small (ends)  as I
primarily do only small pieced shades.
A few things come to mind...free form pieces or square cut mosaics?
I have run my pieces through a screen 1/4 mesh to help in segregating the
sizes of glass to be cut into mosaic pieces.
With unusual foresight, I for the past 15+ years have been segregating the
glass while cutting by both manufr, and color (s).
AS for the grout, any tile store can supply you with it, and in any color
you desire.
Specify what you intend to use it for and what size spacers you are going to
use.
A hint, very rough surface glass will tend to get grout in the creases 
(drapery) and are hard to clean if you wait to long.
A question for you ALL, how and what are you going to put the mosaic glass
pieces on? Then what are you going to do with it.
I amin the on-going process of designing a full room 1/2 height mural of
mosaics, and will install them in interlocking panels. They need to around
stairs and other obstacles, and have a moulding to finish the installation,
and I may even do it during this "life-time".
Just a bit of thoughts for you all to masticate on.
Enjoy...it is only glass     Howard


--
Elaine and Howard, mastering technology one byte at a time!
E-Mail address is...weaver51@teleport.com

From owner-glass Fri Jan  5 13:08:44 1996
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X-Path: ukanaix.cc.ukans.edu!elgarber
From: elgarber@ukanaix.cc.ukans.edu
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: custom bevels
Date: Fri, 5 Jan 1996 15:08:03
Message-ID: <9601052106.AA30869@ukanaix.cc.ukans.edu>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

>I have a leaded glass window that has been broken.  Six bevels need to 
>be replaced.  Three are rectangular (one has an angled corner) and 
>the other three are curved.  The glass is quite thick, approximately 
>5/16 inches and the came is copper.  I need a source for custom 
>bevels.  This window is about 60 - 70 years old and I would like to 
>be able to repair it.  I have some old glass from which the bevels 
>could be made; I now need someone who can make them.  You can reply 
>to me directly or on this list.
>
>This is my first posting to this list but I have been listening in 
>for about two months.  I really enjoy this list and always look 
>forward to what will be on it.
>R. D. Craft
>craft@unb.ca

I don't know where you live, but Redfield's in Lawrence, KS is good.  He is 
located at 13 E. 7th, Lawrence, KS 66044 and his phone is 913/843-4039.  He 
does restoration also.

From owner-glass Fri Jan  5 17:37:23 1996
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From: MPGP79B@prodigy.com (PEGGY M PALM)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Mosaics
Date: Fri, 05 Jan 1996 20:32:45 EST
Message-ID: <091.08018374.MPGP79B@prodigy.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Howard,

> I amin the on-going process of designing a full room 1/2 height mural
of
> mosaics, and will install them in interlocking panels. They need to
around
> stairs and other obstacles, and have a moulding to finish the
> installation,
> and I may even do it during this "life-time".

YIPES!!!      What's the design like?  

> Just a bit of thoughts for you all to masticate on.

This one is more like "choke" than "masticate"!   :-)   How far have
you gotten with it?                    Peggy


From owner-glass Fri Jan  5 17:37:56 1996
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From: MPGP79B@prodigy.com (PEGGY M PALM)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Stained Glass Contests
Date: Fri, 05 Jan 1996 20:32:57 EST
Message-ID: <091.08018386.MPGP79B@prodigy.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

> Sounds like great fun!  I would be very interested in organizing this
> "round robin".  If you are interested, please email me at
SKBraman@aol.com

Emailed you details today Stephanie.

> Also another idea....I'm not sure where all of the subscribers are
from,
> but it might be worth considering having a "glass reunion" where we
can
> meet for a day or two, share stained glass ideas and questions,
critique
> finished projects, etc.  What do you think?

I'm in Vermont, which is not exactly a hotbed of SG activity (or of
anything else at the moment: it's -15 degrees today.  No doubt you're
enjoying similar brisk breezes in Michigan?)  If there is ever a glass
expo in New England (in my dreams!), it would be a great place to have
a reunion, although I doubt if our members from Finalnd, etc. would
find it equally convenient!  Maybe the one in Tennessee?  I'm not able
to wander too far from home at the moment, although that may change in
the future.

Anyone else have an idea?     Peggy


From owner-glass Fri Jan  5 17:39:47 1996
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From: MPGP79B@prodigy.com (PEGGY M PALM)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Too quiet
Date: Fri, 05 Jan 1996 20:32:41 EST
Message-ID: <091.08018370.MPGP79B@prodigy.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Dorothy asks:
>  So, this is a new year.  Is there
> something you'd really like to make this year? I'd like to mess with
> mosaic and experiment with etching/engraving and glass paints

Thanks to some help from a friend, I've got a banker's lamp base that I
thought could no longer be found and will be working on designing a
shade for it (just as soon as my day job lets me get there...  Sheesh,
the things we do for money to buy glass supplies!)

Hope to get the glass soon for the dogwood lamp I've been wanting to
make.  Thought I had a lot of glass stuff lined up to keep me going for
a while - until I read about Howard's glass mosaic house!  :-)   Peggy


From owner-glass Fri Jan  5 17:55:52 1996
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From: MPGP79B@prodigy.com (PEGGY M PALM)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Photographing glass - tips (long)
Date: Fri, 05 Jan 1996 20:32:48 EST
Message-ID: <091.08018377.MPGP79B@prodigy.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Several people have mentioned that they want to know more about
photgraphing glass.  I'm not an expert, although I think we have one on
the list.  Wayne, are you still there?  Anyone else?

I'm a collector of information, so I'll pass on what I have about
photgraphing glass, in the hope that it might help someone.

Here is the short version of what the ASGLA recommends for lamp
photgraphs: 
  
1. a 35 mm camera you can change the shutter speeds on     
2. a tripod                                                 
3. a cable release                                          
4. an "80A" blue filter (to correct the yellow color from lightbulbs)  
   
5. Ecktachrome 100 daylight slide film (Fuji film captures
 colors well also)                     
6. 3 hooded light fixtures with clamps from local hardware  
store                                                       
7. a rheostat or dimmer switch                              
8. backdrop of black velour 6'x6' approximate size          

 Pin the backdrop to the wall, and drape it onto a small     
table.  NO FOLDS, NO WRINKLES, NO CREASES!                 

Center the lamp on the draped table, and make a small     
hole in the backdrop to run the cord thru.  Be sure you put 
the hole in a place where it can't be seen thru the         
view finder.   Use one or more 100 watt  bulbs in the lamp, 
and plug it into the rheo or dimmer switch so you can 
adjust the level of light coming thru the shade.  (Be sure
you don't overload the wattage rating on  your lamp base.  
If it says maximum 60 watt bulb recommended, use 60 watts.  
Check your fixture rating.  If it is rated for a 3 way bulb, you
 might want to try that instead of a rheo.)        

Place 3 hardware store fixtures:   one above and 
slightly behind the lamp, and one on either side.      
Check your camera position, to see if you are getting a lot 
of reflection from them. Change setup to make the vase 
cap show up.  The base is highlighted by the side lamps.  
Turn on the lamp light, and check for hot spots.  You can 
mask any offending areas with a piece of paper placed 
on the inside of the lamp. You can stick it in place with a 
small piece of tacky wax or scotch tape.                               

If you can adjust the setting on the camera, try setting 
the exposure for 1 - 2 seconds, and the fstop  no less   
than f8- f16.  You might try bracketing your exposures, by  
taking one or two at the next higher setting, one you think 
is right, and one or two at the next lower setting.   A     
cable release and tripod will give a steadier photo. 

Be sure the lamp is the center of attention, not too much  
backdrop showing. Move closer if you need to.   If the 
finished pictures look drab or yellowish, try changing lamp
bulb to a blue one. Or  take an extreme closeup of the 
shade lit with more light than looks right to the naked eye.  


Suzanne Cooper, who photographs her work for her design books,  claims
that Fuji film is the only type that has given her true color
reproduction of purple glass.  She also recommends photgraphing
outdoors in daylight for panel-type porjects.  Remember to keep the
background simple.  Having your flower garden as a backdrop to your
flower panel is likely to overwhelm the viewer unless you're an
experienced  photographer.  In that case, you don't need these
directions anyway!    :-)

Good luck!   Peggy


From owner-glass Fri Jan  5 20:12:29 1996
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X-Path: aol.com!GinaJoe
From: GinaJoe@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Mosaics
Date: Fri, 5 Jan 1996 23:09:17 -0500
Message-ID: <1996Jan5.18917.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi.  As a frequent eavesdropper to this group, I finally have something to
contribute!

I'm planning on doing a glass mosaic table top, which will be fitted into the
top of a wood coffee table.  I've seen some done by a local artist and really
like the technique.  I'll probably glue the mosaic pieces to another piece of
glass and then place both layers into a "hole" in the table top.  That way I
won't damage the wood table during the abrasive grouting process.

I'm still in the thinking stage on this, so any comments or suggestions would
be greatly appreciated!

From owner-glass Sat Jan  6 12:23:21 1996
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X-Path: vixa.voyager.net!delphigl
From: delphigl@voyager.net (Delphi Stained Glass)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Stained Glass Contests
Date: Sat, 6 Jan 1996 15:22:00 -0500
Message-ID: <199601062022.PAA20698@vixa.voyager.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

>> Sounds like great fun!  I would be very interested in organizing this
>> "round robin".  If you are interested, please email me at
>SKBraman@aol.com
>
>Emailed you details today Stephanie.

Thanks for the details Peggy.

Over the weekend I will be putting together the details for this "round
robin" and will post them in a few days.  Put the finishing touches on your
new projects or polish up your already existing pieces and warm up your cameras!

I am already looking forward to seeing everyone's pictures!

Stephanie


From owner-glass Sat Jan  6 19:49:11 1996
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From: CHRIS GRAHAM <cgraham@pc.jaring.my>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Stained Glass In New Zealand
Date: Sun, 7 Jan 1996 11:47:36 +0800 (MYT)
Message-ID: <199601070347.LAA20093@relay3.jaring.my>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi,

Does anyone out there know of any good places in New Zealand selling stained
glass and accessories? I'm presently living in East Malaysia on the island
of Borneo, so am a bit cut off from supplies and ideas. I'm going to New
Zealand in a weeks time on holiday and will be touring around, so hope to
pick up something different and some new ideas on the way.

Penny Graham
cgraham@pc.jaring.my

 


From owner-glass Sun Jan  7 09:59:15 1996
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X-Path: nbnet.nb.ca!chaseway
From: wayne chase <chaseway@nbnet.nb.ca>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Photographing glass - tips (long)
Summary: NB*net - New Brunswick's Regional Network 1-800-561-4459
Date: Sun, 07 Jan 1996 13:54:22 AST
Message-ID: <9607135422.09AB>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

On Fri, 05 Jan 1996 20:32:48 EST,  MPGP79B@prodigy.com writes:
>
>Several people have mentioned that they want to know more about
>photgraphing glass.  I'm not an expert, although I think we have one on
>the list.  Wayne, are you still there?  Anyone else?
>
>I'm a collector of information, so I'll pass on what I have about
>photgraphing glass, in the hope that it might help someone.
>
>Here is the short version of what the ASGLA recommends for lamp
>photgraphs: 
>  
>1. a 35 mm camera you can change the shutter speeds on     
>2. a tripod                                                 
>3. a cable release                                          
>4. an "80A" blue filter (to correct the yellow color from lightbulbs)  
>   
>5. Ecktachrome 100 daylight slide film (Fuji film captures
> colors well also)                     
>6. 3 hooded light fixtures with clamps from local hardware  
>store                                                       
>7. a rheostat or dimmer switch                              
>8. backdrop of black velour 6'x6' approximate size          
>
> Pin the backdrop to the wall, and drape it onto a small     
>table.  NO FOLDS, NO WRINKLES, NO CREASES!                 
>
>Center the lamp on the draped table, and make a small     
>hole in the backdrop to run the cord thru.  Be sure you put 
>the hole in a place where it can't be seen thru the         
>view finder.   Use one or more 100 watt  bulbs in the lamp, 
>and plug it into the rheo or dimmer switch so you can 
>adjust the level of light coming thru the shade.  (Be sure
>you don't overload the wattage rating on  your lamp base.  
>If it says maximum 60 watt bulb recommended, use 60 watts.  
>Check your fixture rating.  If it is rated for a 3 way bulb, you
> might want to try that instead of a rheo.)        
>
>Place 3 hardware store fixtures:   one above and 
>slightly behind the lamp, and one on either side.      
>Check your camera position, to see if you are getting a lot 
>of reflection from them. Change setup to make the vase 
>cap show up.  The base is highlighted by the side lamps.  
>Turn on the lamp light, and check for hot spots.  You can 
>mask any offending areas with a piece of paper placed 
>on the inside of the lamp. You can stick it in place with a 
>small piece of tacky wax or scotch tape.                               
>
>If you can adjust the setting on the camera, try setting 
>the exposure for 1 - 2 seconds, and the fstop  no less   
>than f8- f16.  You might try bracketing your exposures, by  
>taking one or two at the next higher setting, one you think 
>is right, and one or two at the next lower setting.   A     
>cable release and tripod will give a steadier photo. 
>
>Be sure the lamp is the center of attention, not too much  
>backdrop showing. Move closer if you need to.   If the 
>finished pictures look drab or yellowish, try changing lamp
>bulb to a blue one. Or  take an extreme closeup of the 
>shade lit with more light than looks right to the naked eye.  
>
>
>Suzanne Cooper, who photographs her work for her design books,  claims
>that Fuji film is the only type that has given her true color
>reproduction of purple glass.  She also recommends photgraphing
>outdoors in daylight for panel-type porjects.  Remember to keep the
>background simple.  Having your flower garden as a backdrop to your
>flower panel is likely to overwhelm the viewer unless you're an
>experienced  photographer.  In that case, you don't need these
>directions anyway!    :-)
>
>Good luck!   Peggy
>
>
 Hi Everyone,

     Thought I would add my 2 cents to the photography of stained glass.  From
the coments I have read lately, I can see that many have figured out something
to work for them, and have also found out to things not to do.  I thought I
would ad my comments to the bottom of Peggy's information as to give a
complete list of ways of doing this.

     The information that Peggy has stated is correct but from my years of
experience, I tend to look for a more simplistic way of doing this. If I were
shooting for a catalogue I would do a version similiar to the above only with
large format camera and I would also be using Ektachrome Professional film.

     The easiest way to photograph stained glass lamps is the same way you
would photograph your Christmas tree, where you are dealing with two elements.
The lights to show the color, and definition in the ornaments, as they do not
light up like the lights.  In stained glass, you want the illumination and
color of the glass to show, and you want some detail in the base and solder,
(except in my case, when I choose to hide the sloppy solder.) ;-).

     Using a blue filter to correct the color of the light bulb you place your
camera on a tripod and turn on the lamp.  Take a reading through your lense
of the illuminated lamp.  It will probably be a low aperature and a slow
shutter speed.  Set your flash (providing it has some controls) to a power
that matches the aperature.  Such as 5.6 or 8 etc.  This is totally relevant
to the power of the lamp light. Take a fer shots bracketing your exposure up
and down.  Should give good results for most cases.  The background can be of
your choise as long as it does not distract from the glass and tones.  Black
velvet is fine but I would use and old masters canvas, (I paint them myself)
draped with soft folds for a neutral background, or I would set the lamp up on
a mahogany table in a library setting for a richer classier look.

     Windows I would definatly do outside, unless they were already installed,
and I would catch the sun in a large reflector, (Bed Sheet etc.) a few feet
or meters back from the window, behind the window, and let it reflect through
the window. Take a reading and shoot (Bracketing both sides of the scale)
Remember, the sheet/reflector is behind the window, and you and camera are in
front of window.

     There are other more complicated ways to go, but for good recording
purposes this will work.

     Hope this add on helps, and please pardon the spelling as I am banging
this out as fast as I can.

     HAPPY NEW YEAR EVERYONE!!!!!

     Wayne Chase
     Wayne Chase Photography
     Moncton, New Brunswick
     Canada.


From owner-glass Mon Jan  8 05:25:35 1996
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From: delphigl@voyager.net (Delphi Stained Glass)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Round Robin Details
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 1996 08:13:42 -0500
Message-ID: <199601081313.IAA29517@vixa.voyager.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Everyone is invited to participate in our First Glass Round Robin.  Here is your
opportunity to share your favorite projects with others who also enjoy glass?

Here is how it works

1.  Assemble your Round Robin Packet.  It should contain the following.

  A.  A note with your name, full snail mail address, and email address.
  B.  Photos of your projects with your full name clearly labeled on the back.
  C.  A note about your photos detailing information about your projects
like whatpattern you used or if it is an original design, glass used,
special notes of interest, and/or tips for anyone who would be interested in
making one too.
  D.  Optional - Any other tidbits you would like to share with our group
like photos of yourself, your family and pets, favorite recipes, a copy of a
favorite original design that someone would like to try, a special poem, a
letter about yourself, etc.
  E.  Optional - A SASE large enough to return your packet in after the
Round Robin has come back home to roost if you would like this information
to be returned to you.

Place all of your goodies into a sturdy envelope and mark the outside
'Photos - Do Not Bend.'  For extra protection you can also insert a piece of
cardboard inside the envelope to make it sturdier.

2.  Mailing Deadline - All packets must be received no later than March 15,
1996 to be included in our First Round Robin.  I will post a note around
March 1 to remind everyone that the deadline is fast approaching.

3.  Mail your packet to - Stephanie Braman, Attn: Glass Round Robin, 310 W.
Cherry St., Mason MI  48854, USA.  Please email me after you have mailed
this information so that I know when to expect it.  I will confirm its
arrival by  private email.

4.  When I have received all of the packets, I will organize the list of
participants by location and build a mailing list which will make a circle
(example: MI to NY to PA to FL to TX to CA to WA to CO to MI) and will post
this list of names only in order of mailing to this group.  If you are going
to be away for any length of time, please notify me immediately so this
packet does not sit in your mailbox for weeks.

5.  After all the mailing plans have been firmed up, I will assemble the
entire Round Robin including a copy of the mailing list with snail mail
addresses and mail it in a Priority Mail envelope (2 pounds for $3 with
approx delivery of 2 days) to the first name on the list.  I will also post
a note to this group to let everyone know when the Round Robin has flown the
coop.

6.  When the first name on the list receives the envelope, he/she will post
a note to let everyone know when the packet arrives.  After you have
examined the contents, please put it in a new Priority Mail envelope and
mail it to the next person on the list. Please be considerate and limit the
package's visit to 3-5 days.

7.  After the Round Robin has come back home to roost, I will notify
everyone of its arrival and return your information in the SASEs provided.

Sound Fun?!!!!!  If you have any questions, comments, or concerns, please
feel free to let me know.

I look forward to seeing everyone's work!  Remember to mail your packet soon!

Stephanie
SKBraman@aol.com
______________________________________________________________________
Stephanie Braman       **  E-mail:  delphigl@vixa.voyager.net
Delphi Stained Glass   **  WWW:     http://www.voyager.net/delphiglass
2116 E. Michigan Ave.  **  Voice:   1-800-248-2048 (USA,Canada)
Lansing, MI  48912     **           1-517-482-2617 (International)
USA                    **  Fax:     1-800-748-0374 (USA,Canada)
                                    1-517-482-4028 (International)
_____________________________________________________________________


From owner-glass Mon Jan  8 08:07:39 1996
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X-Path: gjr
From: gjr@daver.bungi.com (Glenna Rand)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Round Robin Details
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 1996 07:55:10 PST
Message-ID: <m0tZJuo-0000HbC@daver.bungi.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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> Sound Fun?!!!!!  If you have any questions, comments, or concerns, please
> feel free to let me know.

Why not just have somone scan the images with the info. and put them up
on a web site?...less time consuming and alot cheaper than mailing all those 
packages.

Just my 2 cents worth.

-- 
Glenna Rand
gjr@bungi.com

From owner-glass Mon Jan  8 11:47:20 1996
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X-Path: ixcim.att.com!tynan
From: nq9230200-Tynan <tynan@ixcim.att.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Round Robin Details
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 96 10:50:39 CST
Message-ID: <9601081650.AA25759@ixcim.att.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

It would be nice to have a web site with scanned images.  I have just
started in the craft and to-date have completed one leaded panel, have
another started, and just began a class on the foil method.  So I
wouldn't have anything to contribute, but would really like to see other's
work!

My 2 cents,
Tara Tynan
tynan@ixcim.att.com

Glenna wrote:
>Why not just have somone scan the images with the info. and put them up
>on a web site?...less time consuming and alot cheaper than mailing all those 
>packages.
>
>Just my 2 cents worth.
>
>-- 
>Glenna Rand
>gjr@bungi.com
>

From owner-glass Mon Jan  8 12:42:07 1996
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X-Path: gjr
From: gjr@daver.bungi.com (Glenna Rand)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Round Robin Details
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 1996 12:41:07 PST
Message-ID: <m0tZONR-0000kEC@daver.bungi.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

[In the message entitled "Re: Round Robin Details" on Jan  8, 10:50, nq9230200-Tynan writes:]
> It would be nice to have a web site with scanned images.  I have just
> started in the craft and to-date have completed one leaded panel, have
> another started, and just began a class on the foil method.  So I
> wouldn't have anything to contribute, but would really like to see other's
> work!

Hi Tara,

Just incase you don't know, I have set up a web site with some of my
work as well of lots of other sites to visit.  You can find it at
http://www.bungi.com/glass

Enjoy!



-- 
Glenna Rand
gjr@bungi.com

From owner-glass Mon Jan  8 13:19:01 1996
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X-Path: vixa.voyager.net!delphigl
From: delphigl@voyager.net (Delphi Stained Glass)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Round Robin Details
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 1996 16:18:13 -0500
Message-ID: <199601082118.QAA24082@vixa.voyager.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

>Why not just have somone scan the images with the info. and put them up
>on a web site?...less time consuming and alot cheaper than mailing all those 
>packages.

I agree that this is a good idea, but I don't have a personal site or
scanning equipment to make this possible.  Anyone volunteering their sites?
For what it's worth, I view a lot of sites in text only because if they are
really graphic, it takes a long time for the page to load.  Also the monitor
on my home computer doesn't have 256 color capabilities, so viewing
everyone's beautiful creations would be lost on me.

I organized this Round Robin because I have received several dozen responses
from individuals who are interested in this proposition.  I have heard that
Round Robins are very successful for Prodigy.  

I apologize if I have offended anyone or stepped on anyone's toes.  My only
intent is to share with all of you the one thing we all enjoy.

Regards,
Stephanie



>-- 
>Glenna Rand
>gjr@bungi.com
>
>


From owner-glass Mon Jan  8 14:13:23 1996
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From: nq9230200-Tynan <tynan@ixcim.att.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Round Robin Details
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 96 16:12:22 CST
Message-ID: <9601082212.AA10851@ixcim.att.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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Hi Stephanie,

I just wanted to let you know that I was not offended in the least and I hope
that no-one else feels that way...I think it's really nice that you have 
offered to tackle a round-robin.  It's alot of work and responsibility!  
Since I am able to use my work computing resources, I don't always remember
that not everyone has the same net resources available to them.  Thanks for
pointing that out.

Tara

tynan@ixcim.att.com

From owner-glass Mon Jan  8 16:27:35 1996
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X-Path: gjr
From: gjr@daver.bungi.com (Glenna Rand)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Round Robin Details
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 1996 16:26:24 PST
Message-ID: <m0tZRtR-0000imC@daver.bungi.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


> I agree that this is a good idea, but I don't have a personal site or
> scanning equipment to make this possible.  Anyone volunteering their sites?

> Stephanie

We have put our pictures on photo cd and then the web site, which has
really worked very well.  But not everyone needs to get a photo cd 
to do this.  

We have ample space on our website for the pictures and can scan them
but we far prefer getting the images electronically.  If you do want
to send pictures please send 35ml negatives and we'll put them on photo
cd.  It would be great if you could include about $1.50 per image.
Printed photos are ok as well but don't scan as nice.
If you interested mail me directly and I'll give you shipping instructions.



-- 
Glenna Rand
gjr@bungi.com

From owner-glass Mon Jan  8 19:40:14 1996
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X-Path: postoffice.ptd.net!rhawk
From: rhawk@postoffice.ptd.net (Rodney Hawk)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Kalidoscopes
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 1996 22:37:56 -0500
Message-ID: <199601090337.WAA02776@ns1.ptd.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

>Is anyone out there making kalidoscopes?
>And what kind of price you asking?
>     !!!!
>  !!!!!!!!
>!!!!!!!!!!!   O_O          Michael A. White
>!!!  !!!!!!! /@ @\     mygon227@beta.delphi.com
>      !!!!!! \ x /
>      !!!!!!/ m  !m
>       !!!!/ __  |           Sometimes.....
>       !!!!|/  \__        I feel like a nut!
>        !!!\______\
>
>
Hi,

I sell them, not many and not very often. However most people love to look
through them and they are great to attract customers. they sell for $55-75.00


see ya! Rodney Hawk/ Hawk's Stained Glass Designs.


From owner-glass Mon Jan  8 21:12:13 1996
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X-Path: BETA.DELPHI.COM!mygon227
From: Michael White <mygon227@mci.newscorp.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Kalidoscopes
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 1996 00:05:20 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <199601090505.AAA22749@kafka-s2.delphi.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

At 10:37 PM 1/8/96 -0500, you wrote:
>>Is anyone out there making kalidoscopes?
>>And what kind of price you asking?
>>     !!!!
>>  !!!!!!!!
>>!!!!!!!!!!!   O_O          Michael A. White
>>!!!  !!!!!!! /@ @\     mygon227@beta.delphi.com
>>      !!!!!! \ x /
>>      !!!!!!/ m  !m
>>       !!!!/ __  |           Sometimes.....
>>       !!!!|/  \__        I feel like a nut!
>>        !!!\______\
>>
>>
>Hi,
>
>I sell them, not many and not very often. However most people love to look
>through them and they are great to attract customers. they sell for $55-75.00
>
>
>see ya! Rodney Hawk/ Hawk's Stained Glass Designs.
>
Thanks for the reply.  How big do they range?


From owner-glass Tue Jan  9 08:00:43 1996
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From:         HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu
To:           glass@bungi.com
Subject:      Re: Mosaics
Date:         Tue, 09 Jan 96 10:49:59 EST
Message-ID:   <960109.105912.EST.HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu>
References: <<199601052017.MAA19544@desiree.teleport.com>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Wow, BIG mosaic, Elaine and Howard.  That's a lot of weight (I'm sure you've
thought of that), but do your walls shift when trucks come by?  I recently
moved from a house where I could not put in any stained glass windows because
it was a main road and the house moved so much at times that the regular
glass windows and storm windows broke all the time.  (Lots of stuff hanging
in the windows, though).  A relative in another town where a mall was built
nearby and suddenly got truck traffic had moldings pop off her walls!  As
well as normal expansion and contraction with temperature and humidity
changes.
    How you going to attach it to the wall?
I want to try some smaller things that I can put it regular picture frames.

#$!& Just dug out from the blizzard of '96 and actually have snow over
the bottom of one of my windows...************

--
Dorothy Kalahan, Interlibrary Loan  (860) 679-2940  FAX (860) 679-4046
UCONN Health Center Library, POB 4003, Farmington CT 06034-4003
HCLADM02@UConnVM.uconn.edu

From owner-glass Tue Jan  9 13:42:41 1996
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X-Path: avery.med.virginia.edu!lbl
From: "Laurel B. Hall" <lbl@avery.med.virginia.edu>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Round Robin Details
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 1996 16:37:27 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <199601092137.QAA59551@avery.med.Virginia.EDU>
References: <<199601082118.QAA24082@vixa.voyager.net>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Stephanie, I have been following the thread on the round robin
and want to thank you for volunteering to organize this
project.  I don't hav eaccess to a web browser and wouldn't be
abel to see this work unless we followed your idea.  Please
don't givve up!  Laurie in Virginia

From owner-glass Tue Jan  9 14:47:22 1996
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From: "Tom Chivers" <tchivers@netaccess.on.ca>
To: glass <glass@bungi.com>
Subject:       subscription
Date:          Tue, 9 Jan 1996 17:43:21 +0000
Message-ID: <199601092249.RAA16425@alpha.netaccess.on.ca>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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Please add me to the list.
Kathy Chivers <tchivers@netaccess.on.ca>

From owner-glass Tue Jan  9 15:58:11 1996
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From: "Laurel B. Hall" <lbl@avery.med.virginia.edu>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Round Robin Details
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 1996 16:30:50 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <199601092130.QAA100987@avery.med.Virginia.EDU>
References: <<m0tZJuo-0000HbC@daver.bungi.com>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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Not all of us have access to a web browser.  Hard copy is the
only way I would be abel to see this work.  Laurie in Virginia

From owner-glass Tue Jan  9 18:24:55 1996
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X-Path: mail.badgerdial.net!jairoldi
From: jairoldi@mail.badgerdial.net (Northern Waters Library Service)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Reunion
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 1996 20:24:04 -0600
Message-ID: <199601100224.UAA13729@gomer.wiscnet.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Have any of you heard of the Letterheads?  They have regional gatherings 
within every state, and national, for sign painters.  My husband and I 
belong to it and it is fantastic. No dues, no board of directors, and no 
fuss. Someone decides to have one by posting the dates and times in trade 
magazines and on the internet. Others donate their time by giving short 
workshops in areas of special interest, and as often happens imprompto 
workshops usually sprout. The only rules are, you check your ego at the 
door, and all tips and tricks must be shared. Fees have ranged from $10 to 
$75 depending on the food, drinks, and entertainment provided. If you want 
to get some idea of how this group runs itself look up SignWeb on the 
internet.  SignPainters call themselves Letterheads, PinStripers are 
Pinheads, NeonGlassBlowers are Archeads, ThermalPrinters are Thermalheads, 
what could StainedGlassers be? Leadheads???  Stainheads???  Glassheads???

I am a StainedGlasser and have enjoyed my first 3 days reading all this 
mail, I would love to meet you all at a gathering!  

Sharon Douglas at     jairoldi@mail.badgerdial.net


From owner-glass Wed Jan 10 04:41:16 1996
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From: delphigl@voyager.net (Delphi Stained Glass)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Round Robin Details
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 1996 07:39:30 -0500
Message-ID: <199601101239.HAA09357@vixa.voyager.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

To Everyone:

>Not all of us have access to a web browser.  Hard copy is the
>only way I would be abel to see this work.  Laurie in Virginia

I haven't given up on this project.  Deadline for picture packets is still
March 15.  If you missed the details, please let me know.

Stephanie
______________________________________________________________________
Stephanie Braman       **  E-mail:  delphigl@vixa.voyager.net
Delphi Stained Glass   **  WWW:     http://www.voyager.net/delphiglass
2116 E. Michigan Ave.  **  Voice:   1-800-248-2048 (USA,Canada)
Lansing, MI  48912     **           1-517-482-2617 (International)
USA                    **  Fax:     1-800-748-0374 (USA,Canada)
                                    1-517-482-4028 (International)
_____________________________________________________________________


From owner-glass Thu Jan 11 18:14:05 1996
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From: mrum@idirect.com (mike & carol)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Happy New Year
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 1996 21:11:27 -0500
Message-ID: <199601120211.VAA19776@lucid.idirect.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Happy New Year everyone!  This is Carol.
Glad to see that you have all finally dug out from under  the wrapping paper.

There is a new glass website.  I am very pleased and nervous to announce
Kingsbridge Studio.
http://web.idirect.com/~studio
An unusual present from my husband.  I am interested in knowing how the
pictures look to you.  Any comments/suggestions you have are greatly
appreciated.

t t y l
Carol





From owner-glass Thu Jan 11 18:49:53 1996
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X-Path: gjr
From: gjr@daver.bungi.com (Glenna Rand)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Happy New Year
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 1996 18:47:48 PST
Message-ID: <m0taZWv-0000fcC@daver.bungi.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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[In the message entitled "Happy New Year" on Jan 11, 21:11, mike & carol writes:]

> There is a new glass website.  I am very pleased and nervous to announce
> Kingsbridge Studio.
> http://web.idirect.com/~studio
> An unusual present from my husband.  I am interested in knowing how the
> pictures look to you.  Any comments/suggestions you have are greatly
> appreciated.

Hi Carol,

Just had a look at your website...the pictures are very nice.  Were
they scanned or put on photo cd?  How long have you been doing stained 
glass?


-- 
Glenna Rand
gjr@bungi.com

From owner-glass Fri Jan 12 16:00:30 1996
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From: izzy3@ix.netcom.com (Michael Smoucha )
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Too quiet
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 1996 15:59:31 -0800
Message-ID: <199601122359.PAA20460@ix5.ix.netcom.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

You wrote: 
>
>[In the message entitled "Re: Too quiet" on Jan  5,  9:08, Kelly 
Bryant writes:]
>> 
>
>> I too have been thinking about doing some mosaics, but havn't tried 
it yet.
>> Does it require any other tools that are not used in stained glass.
>> Mosaic seems like a great way to get rid of those glass scraps that 
are too
>> small for most stained glass projects.  I'd love to hear any tips 
from
>> those of you who have already attempted it.
>> 
>
>
>I have also been interested in doing some mosaic pieces.  I was 
wondering
>what type of grout to use though (without buying a kit).  Any
>suggestions would be much appreciated.
>
>-- 
>Glenna Rand
>gjr@bungi.com
>

You can use a tile grout (sand based) just make sure that you seal all 
of the edges of the glass or the grout will creep under and glass 
unlike tile will show these leaks

From owner-glass Fri Jan 12 16:02:46 1996
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From: izzy3@ix.netcom.com (Michael Smoucha )
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: custom bevels
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 1996 16:02:10 -0800
Message-ID: <199601130002.QAA23033@ix8.ix.netcom.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

You wrote: 
>
>I have a leaded glass window that has been broken.  Six bevels need to 

>be replaced.  Three are rectangular (one has an angled corner) and 
>the other three are curved.  The glass is quite thick, approximately 
>5/16 inches and the came is copper.  I need a source for custom 
>bevels.  This window is about 60 - 70 years old and I would like to 
>be able to repair it.  I have some old glass from which the bevels 
>could be made; I now need someone who can make them.  You can reply 
>to me directly or on this list.
>
>This is my first posting to this list but I have been listening in 
>for about two months.  I really enjoy this list and always look 
>forward to what will be on it.
>R. D. Craft
>craft@unb.ca
>
Look in your local phone book for hand bevelers. If you have no luck 
email me and I can get you a price if you supply the templates.


From owner-glass Fri Jan 12 16:08:47 1996
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From: izzy3@ix.netcom.com (Michael Smoucha )
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Mosaics
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 1996 16:08:07 -0800
Message-ID: <199601130008.QAA22431@ix13.ix.netcom.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

You wrote: 
>
>Hi.  As a frequent eavesdropper to this group, I finally have 
something to
>contribute!
>
>I'm planning on doing a glass mosaic table top, which will be fitted 
into the
>top of a wood coffee table.  I've seen some done by a local artist and 
really
>like the technique.  I'll probably glue the mosaic pieces to another 
piece of
>glass and then place both layers into a "hole" in the table top.  That 
way I
>won't damage the wood table during the abrasive grouting process.
>
>I'm still in the thinking stage on this, so any comments or 
suggestions would
>be greatly appreciated!
>
Just make sure you either fully apply clear silicon to the back of each 
piece , or seal ALL edges with same. If you dont when you grout your 
grout will bleed under the glass and even with opals this shows.


From owner-glass Fri Jan 12 16:17:18 1996
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From: izzy3@ix.netcom.com (Michael Smoucha )
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Mosaics
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 1996 16:16:18 -0800
Message-ID: <199601130016.QAA25140@ix6.ix.netcom.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

You wrote: 
>
>Wow, BIG mosaic, Elaine and Howard.  That's a lot of weight (I'm sure 
you've
>thought of that), but do your walls shift when trucks come by?  I 
recently
>moved from a house where I could not put in any stained glass windows 
because
>it was a main road and the house moved so much at times that the 
regular
>glass windows and storm windows broke all the time.  (Lots of stuff 
hanging
>in the windows, though).  A relative in another town where a mall was 
built
>nearby and suddenly got truck traffic had moldings pop off her walls!  
As
>well as normal expansion and contraction with temperature and humidity
>changes.
>    How you going to attach it to the wall?
>I want to try some smaller things that I can put it regular picture 
frames.
>


If you allow room all aroun your panel, block it up at the base with 
rubber blocks and use a good elastic sealant you should have no 
problems installing glass anywhere. The same is true for a mosaic 
panel. The key is to let the piece float in the fso.

>#$!& Just dug out from the blizzard of '96 and actually have snow over
>the bottom of one of my windows...************
>
>--
>Dorothy Kalahan, Interlibrary Loan  (860) 679-2940  FAX (860) 679-4046
>UCONN Health Center Library, POB 4003, Farmington CT 06034-4003
>HCLADM02@UConnVM.uconn.edu
>


From owner-glass Sat Jan 13 11:48:26 1996
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From: CHarnack@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: unsubscribe
Date: Sat, 13 Jan 1996 14:47:17 -0500
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unsubscribe CHarnack@aol.com


From owner-glass Sun Jan 14 19:54:26 1996
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X-Path: swin.edu.au!andreaking
From: "Andrea King" <andreaking@swin.edu.au>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Introduction
Summary: Authenticated sender is <andreaking@gpo.swin.edu.au>
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 1996 14:52:04 +0000
Message-ID: <199601150352.AA11005@lucy.swin.edu.au>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Swinburne University
Precedence: bulk

Hello to all

I have recently subscribed to this list and thought I would 
introduce myself. 
I live in a suburb of Melbourne, in Victoria, Australia and of course am an 
avid stainedglasser (for want of a better word).  I started 
stained-glass work a couple of years ago but haven't done as much as I 
would like to.
I note that lots of you are digging yourselves out of snow at the moment!
We are on the other end of the scale, 40 degrees celsius yesterday.  I had some 
glass out on a workbench under the carport and it was almost too hot 
to handle.
I  am always working on one thing or another.  I have done quite a lot
of leaded panels and have recently been concentrating on developing
my skills (much needed developing) with the copper foil method.  
I have also been practising and practising my precision cutting 
skills.  I have just made some terrariums (5 sided, about 10 inches 
high) to practice precision.  They turned out perfectly.  I am now
working on a sunchatcher, I suppose you would call it ( to hang in a window). 
It is a large butterfly with a wingspan of 20 inches.  There are 130 pieces 
in it and some are quite small.  I have cut most out and am very 
pleased that I am developing the skill to cut so well.  Mind you I 
will have the grinder out for quite a few pieces.  I found that the acute 
concave cuts easily break,  so I have left some of them for grinding.

I actually have heaps of questions but will limit myself to one this time 
otherwise this will be a novel,  not a note.........

WINDCHIMES  I would love to hear from anyone who could help me
with info about making a windchime?????  I cannot find any books about
them so need help.

Must get back to work, day is nearly over and I want to get home, I 
have a date with my grinder..........

Talk to you all later
Andrea
  


From owner-glass Sun Jan 14 21:24:28 1996
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From: "Andrea King" <andreaking@swin.edu.au>
To: glass@daver.bungi.com
Subject: Introduction
Summary: Authenticated sender is <andreaking@gpo.swin.edu.au>
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 1996 16:21:55 +0000
Message-ID: <199601150521.AA14478@lucy.swin.edu.au>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Swinburne University
Precedence: bulk

Hello to all

I have recently subscribed to this list and thought I would 
introduce myself. 
I live in a suburb of Melbourne, in Victoria, Australia and of course
am an avid stainedglasser (for want of a better word).  I started
stained-glass work a couple of years ago but haven't done as much as I
would like to. I note that lots of you are digging yourselves out of
snow at the moment! We are on the other end of the scale, 40 degrees
celsius yesterday.  I had some glass out on a workbench under the
carport and it was almost too hot to handle. I  am always working on
one thing or another.  I have done quite a lot of leaded panels and
have recently been concentrating on developing my skills (much needed
developing) with the copper foil method.  I have also been practising
and practising my precision cutting skills.  I have just made some
terrariums (5 sided, about 10 inches high) to practice precision. 
They turned out perfectly.  I am now working on a sunchatcher, I
suppose you would call it ( to hang in a window). It is a large
butterfly with a wingspan of 20 inches.  There are 130 pieces in it
and some are quite small.  I have cut most out and am very pleased
that I am developing the skill to cut so well.  Mind you I will have
the grinder out for quite a few pieces.  I found that the acute
concave cuts easily break,  so I have left some of them for grinding.

I actually have heaps of questions but will limit myself to one this
time otherwise this will be a novel,  not a note.........

WINDCHIMES  I would love to hear from anyone who could help me
with info about making a windchime?????  I cannot find any books about
them so need help.

Must get back to work, day is nearly over and I want to get home, I
have a date with my grinder..........

Talk to you all later
Andrea


From owner-glass Mon Jan 15 01:31:58 1996
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From: Rexort International P/L  -- HIGLASS <rdeint@yarrow.wt.com.au>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Introduction
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 1996 17:31:08 +0800 (WST)
Message-ID: <199601150931.RAA14097@yarrow.wt.com.au>
References: <<199601150352.AA11005@lucy.swin.edu.au>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi Andrea,

> WINDCHIMES  I would love to hear from anyone who could help me
> with info about making a windchime?????  I cannot find any books about
> them so need help.

Some of our clients use the edges - cut to strips - of our HiGlass sheets 
for making windchimes. They are very effective and a true Australian
product.

If you are interested, please contact myself of our Melbourne
distributor Cheshire Glass.

Regards, 
Harald.

-- 
Harald Reiss, Rexort International Pty Ltd   --  HiGlass
Perth, Western Australia                       rdeint@yarrow.wt.com.au

From owner-glass Mon Jan 15 11:15:38 1996
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X-Path: pilot.msu.edu!rosochac
From: "Lisa Anne Rosochacki" <rosochac@pilot.msu.edu>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Introduction
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 1996 14:14:14 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <199601151914.OAA65299@pilot09.cl.msu.edu>
References: <<199601150521.AA14478@lucy.swin.edu.au>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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>
> WINDCHIMES  I would love to hear from anyone who could help me
> with info about making a windchime?????  I cannot find any books about
> them so need help.
>

Hi Andrea

I have made a few sets of windchimes using fused stips of glass....they have a
nice sound to them... if your interested in knowing more about how I made them
let me know and I'll write you private mail seeing as the process was kind of
involved and I don't know if anyone else is interested in fused glass or not,
or even if you are for that matter.  :)

E-mail:  rosochac@pilot.msu.edu



From owner-glass Mon Jan 15 18:52:24 1996
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From: ferbar@ix.netcom.com (Yndalcio and Barbara Fernandez )
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Windchimes
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 1996 18:51:21 -0800
Message-ID: <199601160251.SAA12411@ix9.ix.netcom.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

You wrote: 

>I have made a few sets of windchimes using fused stips of 
glass....they have a nice sound to them...

Please post your instructions to the listserv as I think many of us 
would be interested.  Thank you kindly.  Barbara


From owner-glass Mon Jan 15 20:31:43 1996
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From: "Andrea King" <andreaking@swin.edu.au>
To: glass@daver.bungi.com
Subject: Windchimes
Summary: Authenticated sender is <andreaking@gpo.swin.edu.au>
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 1996 15:30:12 +0000
Message-ID: <199601160430.AA11169@lucy.swin.edu.au>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Swinburne University
Precedence: bulk

Hello to all and thank you for your prompt responses to my enquiry 
about windchimes.

Lisa
I am extremely interested in glass fusion and will email you direct
with my address as I would like to know how you made yours.  Sounds 
very interesting.  I do not have a kiln but am fortunate to access to 
the equipment and guidance.  (Mind you I have to find the time).


Harald,

Thanks for your reply and I will be in contact with you.  You have my 
curiosity aroused about using cut strips of glass.  Being relatively 
close to home........(albiet the other side of the country) is also 
appealing.  I lived in Perth some years ago, loved it and would be 
back there at the drop of a hat! 

Peggy,

You went to so much trouble for me and I thank you.  The information 
you gave me was great and I will access the archives now I know about 
them.  I would love to hear from UrselH as, although her post was 
very detailed there are many queries such as, was it copper foiled 
and is that strong enough to hold the tubes; is the "swinger" pieced 
to enable the fishing line to hand from the centre.  I guess if  you 
are out there UrselH, you will be in touch.  I hope so.

Thanks again to you all for responding so quickly.  I am thrilled to 
have found this group, you will be hearing from me again soon.

Andrea

From owner-glass Tue Jan 16 20:43:55 1996
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From: GinaJoe@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Wind Chimes
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 1996 23:42:01 -0500
Message-ID: <1996Jan16.18421.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Andrea, 
I too have been interested in making wind chimes.  I haven't tried any yet,
but have seen some for sale.  What they did was take some kind of flat panel
design, and dangle differently-shaped pieces of glass from nylon threads.
 The glass pieces I saw were either kiln-heated to give a rounded edge or
were ground to give a frosted edge.  The thread was either attached to a
jewelry finding which was glued to the glass or was strung through a small
hole drilled in the glass.
Let us know if you try something.  I'm eager to hear what works out for you!
Incidentally, I'm envious of your Australian home!  I spent a very short 8
days in Cairns and Sydney and have wanted to go back ever since!
Happy Cutting!
Gina

From owner-glass Tue Jan 16 21:26:34 1996
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From: GinaJoe@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Great New Book!
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 1996 00:25:20 -0500
Message-ID: <1996Jan16.192520.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Check your supplier for a new book from SGN Publishing titled "Celestial
Stained Glass." It features sun, moon, star and planet designs.  It was
designed by Lisa Rosochacki, who often appears on this site, and was
published by the folks who bring us the Stained Glass News.

Happy Cutting!

From owner-glass Wed Jan 17 09:07:46 1996
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From: kgbryant@MAIL.UTEXAS.EDU (Kelly Bryant)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Great New Book!
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 1996 10:52:29 -0600
Message-ID: <v01530500ad2284cdb837@[128.83.166.106]>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


I was wondering how to get subscribed to the Stained Glass News.  I have
seen it mentioned in the GLass Crafters monthly email notice and wanted to
start getting it.  Anyone out there know?

Kelly



From owner-glass Wed Jan 17 11:20:54 1996
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From: kgreenwell@ccinet.ab.ca (Pat Greenwell)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Great New Book!
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 1996 12:15:49 -0700
Message-ID: <9601171915.AA07250@bach.ccinet.ab.ca>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

>I was wondering how to get subscribed to the Stained Glass News.  I have
>seen it mentioned in the GLass Crafters monthly email notice and wanted to
>start getting it.  Anyone out there know?
>
>Kelly
Hi Kelly:
I may be wrong, but my suppliers tell me that you can't subscribe. It is a
free(to the consumer) publication given to you by your
supplier.Obviously,they have to pay for it. It's a good little paper, but I
find that lots of the new books, products, etc, aren't yet available at my
outlets-very frustrating.
Pat Greenwell.

kgreenwell@ccinet.ab.ca



From owner-glass Wed Jan 17 11:23:42 1996
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From: "Rund, Sharen" <rund#m#_sharen@mmac.is.lmsc.lockheed.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: RE: Wind Chimes
Date: 17 Jan 1996 10:20:29 U
Message-ID: <1996Jan17.22029.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I saw chimes made of broken pieces of depression glassware - the ambers,
yellows, pinks, greens, etc..

the crafter edged the pieces (lest anyone should get cut on a sharp edge)
then hung in interesting "falls" - they sounded great when the wind rippled
through them
_______________________________________________________________________________
From: glass@bungi.com on Tue, Jan 16, 1996 21:10
Subject: Wind Chimes
To: glass@bungi.com

Andrea, 
I too have been interested in making wind chimes.  I haven't tried any yet,
but have seen some for sale.  What they did was take some kind of flat panel
design, and dangle differently-shaped pieces of glass from nylon threads.
 The glass pieces I saw were either kiln-heated to give a rounded edge or
were ground to give a frosted edge.  The thread was either attached to a
jewelry finding which was glued to the glass or was strung through a small
hole drilled in the glass.
Let us know if you try something.  I'm eager to hear what works out for you!
Incidentally, I'm envious of your Australian home!  I spent a very short 8
days in Cairns and Sydney and have wanted to go back ever since!
Happy Cutting!
Gina

-----------------

From owner-glass Wed Jan 17 12:31:50 1996
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X-Path: ixcim.att.com!tynan
From: nq9230200-Tynan <tynan@ixcim.att.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Great New Book!
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 96 14:30:32 CST
Message-ID: <9601172030.AA09527@ixcim.att.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Kelly,

Pat is correct that you cannot subscribe directly to the Stained Glass News.
I pick it up at my local retailer.  If you have a local retailer near you,
you might ask them to consider carrying it.  I'm quite new to the craft and
I find the info in the SGN really helpful.  In fact, I ordered back issues
directly from Stained Glass News.  Back issues (not all are available) CAN
be bought directly.  If you want info, let me know and I can give you the
address.  Another great thing about the SGN is that there is a free pattern
with each issues.  Nothing major, but again, as a newbie, I'm thrilled with
them!

Tara Tynan

tynan@ixcim.att.com


>From att!daver.bungi.com!owner-glass Wed Jan 17 14:22:37 1996
>X-Path: ccinet.ab.ca!kgreenwell
>From: kgreenwell@ccinet.ab.ca (Pat Greenwell)
>To: glass@bungi.com
>Subject: Re: Great New Book!
>Date: Wed, 17 Jan 1996 12:15:49 -0700
>Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
>Content-Length: 561
>
>>I was wondering how to get subscribed to the Stained Glass News.  I have
>>seen it mentioned in the GLass Crafters monthly email notice and wanted to
>>start getting it.  Anyone out there know?
>>
>>Kelly
>Hi Kelly:
>I may be wrong, but my suppliers tell me that you can't subscribe. It is a
>free(to the consumer) publication given to you by your
>supplier.Obviously,they have to pay for it. It's a good little paper, but I
>find that lots of the new books, products, etc, aren't yet available at my
>outlets-very frustrating.
>Pat Greenwell.
>
>kgreenwell@ccinet.ab.ca
>
>
>

From owner-glass Wed Jan 17 13:58:39 1996
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From: "Andrea King" <andreaking@swin.edu.au>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: RE: Wind Chimes
Summary: Authenticated sender is <andreaking@gpo.swin.edu.au>
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 1996 08:56:55 +0000
Message-ID: <199601172156.AA21394@lucy.swin.edu.au>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Swinburne University
Precedence: bulk



(I saw chimes made of broken pieces of depression glassware - the ambers,
yellows, pinks, greens, etc..

the crafter edged the pieces (lest anyone should get cut on a sharp edge)
then hung in interesting "falls" - they sounded great when the wind rippled
through them)


SHAREN

The windchimes you saw sound lovely but (excuse my ignorance) what is 
depression glassware???  Also, when you say edged, do you mean the edges
are foiled and soldered???

I'm still a bit of a novice when it comes to terminology!!!!

Andrea

From owner-glass Wed Jan 17 15:32:50 1996
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From: Pristine <Pristine@cns.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Great New Book!
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 1996 19:33:17 -0800
Message-ID: <1996Jan17.113317.0>
References: <<v01530500ad2284cdb837@[128.83.166.106]>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Pristine Glass Co.
Precedence: bulk

Kelly Bryant wrote:
> 
> I was wondering how to get subscribed to the Stained Glass News.  I have
> seen it mentioned in the GLass Crafters monthly email notice and wanted to
> start getting it.  Anyone out there know?
> 
> Kelly

Sorry but the SGN is only distributed to business concerns. You should 
check w/ your local supplier.

 <Mickey MacKenzie> pristine@gr.cns.net
http://www.cns.net/pristine

From owner-glass Thu Jan 18 08:03:58 1996
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From: "Rund, Sharen" <rund#m#_sharen@mmac.is.lmsc.lockheed.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: RE: Wind Chimes
Date: 18 Jan 1996 07:58:27 U
Message-ID: <1996Jan17.235827.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

depression glassware is the clear & colored glass dishes given out at
theaters during the 30s, e.g., every time you went to the movie theater you
got a plate, cup, saucer, the glass itself had designs/patterns etched in the
underside etc - kind of like the glasses, dishtowels, etc. that used to be
packed in boxes of soap, or the footed glasware that peanut butter came in -
they were "free" for the cost of admission/purchase but, depression glass (DG
has its own news group & list) is BIG to collect - 
needless to say, since its glass, it can break, and, if you can picture
broken pieces of glass, with beautiful lines from the patterns, in broken
pieces, that are foiled, at least, so they won't cut anyone, blowing in the
wind, and catching the sun rays.....
I suppose, if you have a grinder/sander, you could smooth off the edges &
carefully drill a hole in the glass to thread the "sting" through
I hope this answers your question
_______________________________________________________________________________
From: glass@bungi.com on Wed, Jan 17, 1996 19:51
Subject: RE: Wind Chimes
To: glass@bungi.com



(I saw chimes made of broken pieces of depression glassware - the ambers,
yellows, pinks, greens, etc..

the crafter edged the pieces (lest anyone should get cut on a sharp edge)
then hung in interesting "falls" - they sounded great when the wind rippled
through them)


SHAREN

The windchimes you saw sound lovely but (excuse my ignorance) what is 
depression glassware???  Also, when you say edged, do you mean the edges
are foiled and soldered???

I'm still a bit of a novice when it comes to terminology!!!!

Andrea

-----------------

From owner-glass Thu Jan 18 11:42:56 1996
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From: lcbell@memach.com (Linda J. Campbell)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: unsubscribe
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 1996 14:41:55 -0500
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unsubscribe lcbell@memach.com

 ___________________________________________________________________
|                                  |                                |
|  Linda J. Campbell               |   The opinions expressed here  |
|  E-Mail: lcbell@memach.com      @ @  do not necessarily reflect   |
|  Phone: (804) 543-6801 ext.304   ~   those of Metro Machine Corp. |      
|  FAX: (804) 494-0742             |   P.O. Box 1860, Nfk, VA 23501 |
|__________________________________|________________________________|


From owner-glass Thu Jan 18 18:10:41 1996
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Subject: Gatewayed mail message
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 1996 20:44:32 EST
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Unsubscribe


From owner-glass Wed Jan 24 17:41:59 1996
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X-Path: dlr
From: dlr (Dave Rand)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Mailing list out of service for a couple of days
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 96 17:39 PST
Message-ID: <m0tfGer-00010yC@daver.bungi.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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Due to an internal problem (namely some administrator named Dave Rand
modifying a script), the Stained Glass mailing list was out of service
for a couple of days.  Please resubmit any messages you may have sent
since Thursday, Jan 18.  Sorry for the inconvenience!

Dave Rand
postmaster@bungi.com
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From owner-glass Thu Jan 25 06:58:20 1996
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X-Path: mail.utexas.edu!kgbryant
From: kgbryant@mail.utexas.edu (Kelly Bryant)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Window Repair
Date: Thu, 25 Jan 1996 08:22:36 -0600
Message-ID: <v01530509ad2ceb89ac6f@[128.83.166.106]>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hello Everyone out there!

Forgive me if you receive this message twice.  I submitted it yesterday,
but I just got the message about the mailing list being down for a few
days.

I have been working on a window for my father's very late X-mas gift.  I
had just gotten done soldering when I saw a small mark going through part
of the glass.  I lifted the window up carfully to see if it was a the start
of a break or just a blemish in the glass.  As soon as I lifted it I heard
a pop and the glass broke in two.  I have plenty of glass to repair the
piece, but I have never had this happen before so I wanted to get some tips
from those of you who have.  The piece that is broke is on the edge of the
window so hopfully that will make it easier.

It is a great looking window(besides the crack) and I don't want to mess it
up.  Please HELP me!  I would like to finish this window one of these days.

Thanks,
Kelly


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From owner-glass Thu Jan 25 07:25:11 1996
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X-Path: crosfield.co.uk!jc
From: jc@crosfield.co.uk (Jerry Cullingford)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Window Repair
Date: Thu, 25 Jan 1996 15:22:57 +0000 (GMT)
Message-ID: <9601251522.AA18226@crosfield.co.uk>
References: <<v01530509ad2ceb89ac6f@[128.83.166.106]>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I think the books usually reccomend soemthing like the following:
for lead came:

(1) score glass, break, and remove fragments
(2) prise up edges of came.
(3) insert replacement glass.
(4) flatten came and cement in.

if you're on an edge you may be able to unsolder/remove a section of came to
make putting the replacement in easier.

For copper-foiled panels, I think the process is similar:
(1) score, break, remove old
(2) melt solder and remove old foil
(3) make pattern
(4) cut and foil new part
(5) insert and solder.

Disclaimer: I haven't tried either method myself, and I may have
misremembered.
-- 
   _|_
  / |    Jerry Cullingford      jc@crosfield.co.uk      (Work)
  \_|_                          jc@selune.demon.co.uk   (Home)
\__/    Hemel Hempstead, UK     jerry@shell.portal.com  (alternate)
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From owner-glass Thu Jan 25 09:27:42 1996
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From: kgbryant@mail.utexas.edu (Kelly Bryant)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: RE: Window Repair
Date: Thu, 25 Jan 1996 10:55:36 -0600
Message-ID: <v01530500ad2d119223ab@[128.83.166.106]>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


This is Kelly again.  The one with the broken window.  It has been pointed
out to me that I didn't mention whether or not my window is lead or copper
foil.  It is a lead came window. I have soldered it, but have not putty it
yet.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Kelly


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From owner-glass Thu Jan 25 10:26:49 1996
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From: chris.gregors@pipe.nova.ca (Chris Gregors)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Mailing list out of service for a couple of days
Date: Thu, 25 Jan 1996 18:22:36 GMT
Message-ID: <3107ca56.14717056@mail01.pipe.nova.ca>
References: <<m0tfGer-00010yC@daver.bungi.com>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Nova Corporation of Alberta
Precedence: bulk

Canadians.... go figger.

On Wed, 24 Jan 96 17:39 PST, you wrote:

>Due to an internal problem (namely some administrator named Dave Rand
>modifying a script), the Stained Glass mailing list was out of service
>for a couple of days.  Please resubmit any messages you may have sent
>since Thursday, Jan 18.  Sorry for the inconvenience!
>
>Dave Rand
>postmaster@bungi.com
>----
>To request a change in your subscription, please
>mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>

----
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From owner-glass Thu Jan 25 14:10:09 1996
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From: izzy3@ix.netcom.com (Michael Smoucha )
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: RE: Window Repair
Date: Thu, 25 Jan 1996 14:07:35 -0800
Message-ID: <199601252207.OAA06434@ix9.ix.netcom.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

You wrote: 
>
>
>This is Kelly again.  The one with the broken window.  It has been 
pointed
>out to me that I didn't mention whether or not my window is lead or 
copper
>foil.  It is a lead came window. I have soldered it, but have not 
putty it
>yet.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>
>Kelly
>
>
>----
>To request a change in your subscription, please
>mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>
Kelly,

If the break is at a border it is a simple repair. With your lead knife 
carefully cut the solder joints on the back side on the perimeter lead. 
slowly ( in stages) fold the perimeter lead back (let the panel hang 
slightly over the edge of the table. Slip out the old piece and replace 
( you can score and break it out if it is tight. Cut the new piece 
slightly smaller ( about 1/64) than the original, nip all corners so 
they don't hangup and run sandpaper along the edges of the glass to 
help avoid spauling of the glass. Fold leads back down and resolder.

good luck 
ms
 
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From owner-glass Thu Jan 25 16:30:40 1996
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From: Pristine <Pristine@cns.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Window Repair
Date: Thu, 25 Jan 1996 20:28:40 -0800
Message-ID: <1996Jan25.122840.0>
References: <<199601252207.OAA06434@ix9.ix.netcom.com>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Pristine Glass Co.
Precedence: bulk

Michael Smoucha wrote:
<snip>....and run sandpaper along the edges of the glass to
> help avoid spauling of the glass. Fold leads back down and resolder.
> Spauling???
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From owner-glass Thu Jan 25 16:44:56 1996
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From: Pristine <Pristine@cns.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Window Repair
Date: Thu, 25 Jan 1996 20:44:22 -0800
Message-ID: <1996Jan25.124422.0>
References: <<v01530509ad2ceb89ac6f@[128.83.166.106]>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Pristine Glass Co.
Precedence: bulk

> I have been working on a window for my father's very late X-mas gift.  I
> had just gotten done soldering when I saw a small mark going through part
> of the glass.  I lifted the window up carfully to see if it was a the start
> of a break or just a blemish in the glass.  As soon as I lifted it I heard
> a pop and the glass broke in two.  I have plenty of glass to repair the
> piece, but I have never had this happen before so I wanted to get some tips
> from those of you who have.  The piece that is broke is on the edge of the
> window so hopfully that will make it easier.
> 
> It is a great looking window(besides the crack) and I don't want to mess it
> up.  Please HELP me!  I would like to finish this window one of these days.
> 
> Thanks,
> KellyI read the replies to your question. here's 2 cents more.

If it is at all possible cut the perimeter lead on both sides of the window 
so you can remove the lead without lifting the flange.

____\______________________/_____
     \                    /       <-- perimeter
______\__________________/_______ 
    | |\                /| |
    | |                  | | 
    | |                  | |
     ^                    ^
    interoir leads--------| 

Cut at an angle as shown. This will allow the glass to clear the heart of the 
perimeter lead. Provided that the broken piece is does not get wider towards 
the interior you can slide out the old and in the new. You should cut the new 
piece slightly smaller as someone had mentioned. Put the lead you cut away 
back. Solder and cement.
Note: the angle you cut the lead at should be close to 45 degrees.

http://www.grfn.org/~mickey
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From owner-glass Thu Jan 25 20:09:45 1996
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From: izzy3@ix.netcom.com (Michael Smoucha )
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Window Repair
Date: Thu, 25 Jan 1996 20:05:17 -0800
Message-ID: <199601260405.UAA22487@ix10.ix.netcom.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

You wrote: 
>
>Michael Smoucha wrote:
><snip>....and run sandpaper along the edges of the glass to
>> help avoid spauling of the glass. Fold leads back down and resolder.
>> Spauling???
>----
>To request a change in your subscription, please
>mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>
Spauling shell shaped chips in the glass caused by edges catching on 
unforgiving surfaces. Look for the term in relationship to stone also.

Cutting of the leads may not be acceptable if the window is to hang 
i.e. without a frame. Bending the lead came back if done with care  
will give a clean, undamaged appearance and show no evidence of repair 
work. Even if a frame is used I would not completely cut the lead away 
as this does more to damage the integrety of the perimeter lead than 
folding it back.
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From owner-glass Fri Jan 26 03:27:23 1996
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From: 1091@nethawk.com (Sue Eiszler)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: tiffany lamp question
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 1996 06:29:30 -0500
Message-ID: <v01530503ad2e6a208400@[206.97.200.42]>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi All,
        It's good to be back now that I have a new address.  I am just
starting my first Tiffany lamp and have a question regarding glass choice.
I think I picked the wrong kind for some of the flowers.  I don't know what
the glass is called but it has lots of good sized bubbles on the underside
and is very uneven of the top side.  I love it, but I think it is going to
cause problems when trying to assemble and solder since it won't lie flat.
It doesn't seem to line up very well with the other types of glass already
on the form.  I've only cut about 5 pieces so it is not a big disaster.
        Thanks for your help (Howard, are you still out there?).

Sue
1091@nethawk.com





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From owner-glass Fri Jan 26 13:41:21 1996
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X-Path: ccinet.ab.ca!kgreenwell
From: kgreenwell@ccinet.ab.ca (Pat Greenwell)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Kaleidoscopes
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 1996 14:36:46 -0700
Message-ID: <9601262136.AA13757@bach.ccinet.ab.ca>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I have a small home-based glass business and sell my glass in 10 craft
stores. One of my most popular items is the kaleidoscope, and to date I
have been using Clarity kits (which I am very pleased with) and making my
own wheels. I want to try some different designs- does anyone know a source
of kaleidoscopes other than Clarity? I live in Canada so I would prefer a
US or Canadain souce. With the state of the Canadian dollar, it takes a bit
of courage to order outside the country.
Pat

kgreenwell@ccinet.ab.ca
Pat Greenwell
Ponoka,Alberta,Canada


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From owner-glass Fri Jan 26 13:55:41 1996
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From: izzy3@ix.netcom.com (Michael Smoucha )
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: tiffany lamp question
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 1996 13:54:35 -0800
Message-ID: <199601262154.NAA24622@ix10.ix.netcom.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

You wrote: 
>
>Hi All,
>        It's good to be back now that I have a new address.  I am just
>starting my first Tiffany lamp and have a question regarding glass 
choice.
>I think I picked the wrong kind for some of the flowers.  I don't know 
what
>the glass is called but it has lots of good sized bubbles on the 
underside
>and is very uneven of the top side.  I love it, but I think it is 
going to
>cause problems when trying to assemble and solder since it won't lie 
flat.
>It doesn't seem to line up very well with the other types of glass 
already
>on the form.  I've only cut about 5 pieces so it is not a big 
disaster.
>        Thanks for your help (Howard, are you still out there?).
>
>Sue
>1091@nethawk.com
>
>Sue,
In many cases you can use pins under the edges of the adjacent glass to 
bring the pieces up to level with the thicker glass. You will have to 
fuss with it a bit but if you like the glass it will probably be worth 
it. Just push the pins in flush and try the pieces. Pull up the pins 
untill they keep the glass at the level that you require.

M.S.

>
>
>
>----
>To request a change in your subscription, please
>mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>

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From owner-glass Fri Jan 26 21:25:36 1996
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From: ferbar@ix.netcom.com (Yndalcio and Barbara Fernandez )
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: another lamp question
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 1996 21:24:46 -0800
Message-ID: <199601270524.VAA09555@ix12.ix.netcom.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hello all!
I'm about to start my first lamp project and am seeking advice.  My  
teacher suggests using a Worden pattern no larger than 16 inches.  Does 
anyone have a favorite pattern ..  one you thought was particularly 
good for a beginner?  Is there an upper limit of pieces for a first 
project .. 200, 400, 600?  I think I know better than to try the lotus 
pattern.  Suggestion and advice are welcome.  Thanks.  Barbara
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From owner-glass Sat Jan 27 04:54:33 1996
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From: MPGP79B@prodigy.com (PEGGY M PALM)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: tiffany lamp questions and Canadian supply sources
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 1996 07:51:57 EST
Message-ID: <096.09653700.MPGP79B@prodigy.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Neat to know that so many people are making Tiffany lamps!  

Sue, 

Mike's suggestion about using pins to support the edges from underneath
worked well for me too.  Of course, we're both assuming you're using a
styrofoam mold!  Also, glass headed sewing pins work better.  The ones
with plastic heads can melt from the heat of soldering. 

I think some of the challenges arise from the size of the pieces, as
well as irregularities in glass thickness.  When you put a flat piece
on a curved form, the edges are bound to stick up somewhere:  more
noticeable the larger the piece.  I almost died the first time I
realized I would have to figure out how to connect leaf tips that made
NO contact with the adjoining pieces... [gulp!]

It can be done, and isn't as hard as it seems.  Bridge the gap
gradually by building up drops of solder from the edges toward the gap.
With that as a base, the top layer can be smoothed into a bead.  The
trick is to have the iron hot enough to bead the surface, and to work
quickly enough to avoid melting through your bridge.  For really
obnoxious areas, you can try bridging the worst area with a small piece
of foil to give extra support to the solder.  If you reheat it too
often, though, it may decide to detach, causing you invent new colorful
phrases not fit for public consumption!

Barbara,

I have no connection with any retail sellers and offer the following
simply as information. :-)
Glass Crafters in FL has a sale flyer out offering a "tiny Tiffany"
package, which includes a Worden 7" bell or globe form of your choice
of design, a choice  between 2 different styles of base (includes
wiring), the vase cap, and even the light bulb, I think!  These forms
are about 200 pieces and might seem like a more manageable project than
that lotus, or Howard's dragonfly swirl.  :-)  Call 1-800-422-4552 for
details.  I think the package is about $39 and does not include glass. 
I'm sure Delphi and Warner Crivellaro [and others] offer all the parts
separately also.  Let us know what you decide to take on!


Pat,  I find the following glass suppliers for Canada on a longer list
of American suppliers:
                                                            
 Hollander Glass Canada                                     
  3095 Universal Dr     905-625-7911                        
  Mississauga, Ontario  1-800-268-0467                      
  L4X 2E2, Canada                                           
                                                            
  Kaleido Glass Limited  905-837-7373                       
  2 Lamb Street    fax - 905-873-7388                       
  Georgetown, Ontario                                       
  L7G 3M9, Canada                                           

  Adventure Art Glass - wholesale                           
  1-800-824-3162                                            
                                                            
  Mid-America Stained Glass   - wholesale                 
  1-800-255-6631                                            

Those last 2 don't look like Canadian exchanges to me, but were listed
under the Canada section.  I've never ordered from them and don't know
anyone who has, but it might be a starting point in your search.  You
might also consider contacting the Brewster Society (a kaleidoscope
enthusiasts group) located at 100 Severn Ave. Suite 605 Annapolis, MD
21403  Good luck!

	Peggy, who just finished cleaning up the flood in the glass studio
caused by 2.5 ft of snow melting in 1.5 days.  Can spring really be
coming?

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From owner-glass Sat Jan 27 10:26:02 1996
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X-Path: ccinet.ab.ca!kgreenwell
From: kgreenwell@ccinet.ab.ca (Pat Greenwell)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: tiffany lamp questions and Canadian supply sources
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 1996 11:22:32 -0700
Message-ID: <9601271822.AA16947@bach.ccinet.ab.ca>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


>Pat,  I find the following glass suppliers for Canada on a longer list
>of American suppliers:
Hi Peggy: Thanks for the list. They are new sources to me.
 If anyone out there is interested, I've had good service from The Glass
Place in Pointe Claire, Que, Canada Their 800 #  is 1-800-363-7855
Pat

kgreenwell@ccinet.ab.ca
Pat Greenwell
Ponoka,Alberta,Canada


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From owner-glass Sat Jan 27 11:13:29 1996
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From: mrum@idirect.com (mike & carol)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Kaleidoscopes
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 1996 14:12:26 -0500
Message-ID: <199601271912.OAA09903@lucid.idirect.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

>I have a small home-based glass business and sell my glass in 10 craft
>stores. One of my most popular items is the kaleidoscope, and to date I
>have been using Clarity kits (which I am very pleased with) and making my
>own wheels. I want to try some different designs- does anyone know a source
>of kaleidoscopes other than Clarity? I live in Canada so I would prefer a
>US or Canadain souce. With the state of the Canadian dollar, it takes a bit
>of courage to order outside the country.
>Pat
>
>kgreenwell@ccinet.ab.ca
>Pat Greenwell
>Ponoka,Alberta,Canada
>
>
>----
>To request a change in your subscription, please
>mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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>
Hi Pat, this is Carol in  Mississauga (Toronto)
My favourite supplier is Fantasy in Glass Glassworks
703 The Queensway
Toronto, Ont
416 252 6868  speak with Mike or Jim

Hollander and Kaleido are wholesale suppliers and may not deal with you.  I
know that FIGG sends orders
out by courier but you would have to be specific as they do not have a
catalogue.  They may be able to make
good suggestions about other kaleidoscope patterns.

Delphi in Michigan has an awesome catalogue.  Look for them on the web, try
doing a search on Delphi.
They sent me a catalogue just for filling out their survey.  Looked at the
book and promptly went to FIGG and
dropped $200!!!

or link through my site:  http://web.idirect.com/~studio

Good luck
Carol


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From owner-glass Sat Jan 27 12:06:40 1996
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From: mrum@idirect.com (mike & carol)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: another lamp question
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 1996 15:05:33 -0500
Message-ID: <199601272005.PAA15953@lucid.idirect.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

>Hello all!
>I'm about to start my first lamp project and am seeking advice.  My  
>teacher suggests using a Worden pattern no larger than 16 inches.  Does 
>anyone have a favorite pattern ..  one you thought was particularly 
>good for a beginner?  Is there an upper limit of pieces for a first 
>project .. 200, 400, 600?  I think I know better than to try the lotus 
>pattern.  Suggestion and advice are welcome.  Thanks.  Barbara
>----
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>

Hi Barbara, this is Carol

My first Worden lamp was 19 1/2 inches in diameter, had over 300 pieces
and my mother-in-law still loves it!!  Worden G19 1/2 - 2.  Used almond opal,
dark clear amber, white opal and ruby red cathedral on the diamond shapes. 
The form was large enough that very few edges stuck up, it had more of a
smooth finish.  This was done as a  course offered by one of the cities best
studios,
Fantasy in Glass Glassworks, Toronto.    Yes it took a long time, classes
were 3 hours
and we spent ten weeks on the course.  We had to spend at least 3-6 hours
per week
on our own just to keep up with the 'lesson'.

If you would like to see it, try http://web.idirect.com/~studio

My project for 1996 is to use the same form and make a lamp using shells
from the Bahamas and a second lamp using Florida shells.   Wish me luck!!

Enjoy,
Carol

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From owner-glass Sat Jan 27 13:03:40 1996
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X-Path: ccinet.ab.ca!kgreenwell
From: kgreenwell@ccinet.ab.ca (Pat Greenwell)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Kaleidoscopes
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 1996 13:58:58 -0700
Message-ID: <9601272058.AA21638@bach.ccinet.ab.ca>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


>Hi Pat, this is Carol in  Mississauga (Toronto)
>My favourite supplier is Fantasy in Glass Glassworks
Hi Carol:
**Thanks for your reply and all the helpful advice.I have heard about FIGG:
my supplier out here had some of their disigns once.
>Delphi in Michigan has an awesome catalogue.  Look for them on the web, try
>doing a search on Delphi.
>They sent me a catalogue just for filling out their survey.  Looked at the
>book and promptly went to FIGG and
>dropped $200!!!
**I just found Delphi and have sent for their catalogue. I know I will want
to order but the exchange is such a hindrance.Do you find that FIGG
can/will get some of the items you see in the Delphi catalogue?
Thanks again-Pat

kgreenwell@ccinet.ab.ca
Pat Greenwell
Ponoka,Alberta,Canada


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From owner-glass Sat Jan 27 15:43:15 1996
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From: schneijf@cencom.net (jean schneider)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Gatewayed mail message
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 1996 17:42:14 -0600
Message-ID: <9601272342.AA06969@ns.cencom.net>
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>unsubscribe
>----
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>mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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>
>

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From owner-glass Sun Jan 28 04:50:25 1996
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X-Path: nethawk.com!1091
From: 1091@nethawk.com (Sue Eiszler)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Kaleidoscopes
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 1996 07:52:13 -0500
Message-ID: <v01530501ad31212be4e5@[206.97.200.51]>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

>>I have a small home-based glass business and sell my glass in 10 craft
>>stores. One of my most popular items is the kaleidoscope, and to date I
>>have been using Clarity kits (which I am very pleased with) and making my
>>own wheels. I want to try some different designs- does anyone know a source
>>of kaleidoscopes other than Clarity? I live in Canada so I would prefer a
>>US or Canadain souce. With the state of the Canadian dollar, it takes a bit
>>of courage to order outside the country.
>>Pat

>Delphi in Michigan has an awesome catalogue.  Look for them on the web, try
>doing a search on Delphi.
>They sent me a catalogue just for filling out their survey.  Looked at the
>book and promptly went to FIGG and


I am going to Delphi today (if the weather holds) and will be glad to check
on kaleidoscopes for you to see if there are other manufacturers.  The
other thing you can do is to email Delphi and Stephanie will email you back
promptly with information.
                delphigl@vixa.voyager.net

Sue
1091@nethawk.com






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From owner-glass Sun Jan 28 12:21:57 1996
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From: kgreenwell@ccinet.ab.ca (Pat Greenwell)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Kaleidoscopes
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 1996 13:16:28 -0700
Message-ID: <9601282016.AA25712@bach.ccinet.ab.ca>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


>I am going to Delphi today (if the weather holds) and will be glad to check
>on kaleidoscopes for you to see if there are other manufacturers.  The
>other thing you can do is to email Delphi and Stephanie will email you back
>promptly with information.
>                delphigl@vixa.voyager.net

Hi Sue; Thanks so much for youkind offer. I have sent for their catalogue
and  look forward to getting it.I'll be glad to hear if you find anything
really exciting. I have sent to them for a kaleidoscope kit called 'Lost in
Space' (or some such name) which they mentioned on their home page.
Pat

kgreenwell@ccinet.ab.ca
Pat Greenwell
Ponoka,Alberta,Canada


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From owner-glass Sun Jan 28 13:33:25 1996
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From: "Andrea King" <andreaking@swin.edu.au>
To: glass@daver.bungi.com
Subject: Butterfly
Summary: Authenticated sender is <andreaking@gpo.swin.edu.au>
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 08:32:21 +0000
Message-ID: <199601282132.AA32327@lucy.swin.edu.au>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Swinburne University
Precedence: bulk

Hi to everyone

I'm re-sending this, it never made it while there was a 
server problem.  I thought the problem was at my end as we "migrated" from one 
provider to another and were out of action for a day or so.  Now its 
catch-up time.

Just checking my mail, none to answer so thought I'd fill everyone in
with my weekend project.  I'm making a butterfly with a 20 inch
wingspan.  So far I have soldered all pieces of both wings and now
have to put it together with the body, head and antanne..

It is just beautiful so far and I'm so proud of myself as I said I was
practicing my precision cutting.  Some of the pieces in this butterfly
(127) are as small as the nail on my little finger.  I did have to
grind the very tight curves nevertheless I think I did very well.

I used black opaque glass close to the body and in other parts I used
iridised glass.  Is looking stunning and can't wait for next weekend to come
to work on it some more.  We have a long weekend here this weekend
coming "Australia Day" so I have a little more time to spend with my
glass.

I have been getting all sorts of information together in my mind about
how I'm going to make my windchimes and I guess I'll just experiment
with the info I have received.  I am going to visit the distributer
for HI GLASS soon and have a look at this new product.  Sounds like a
wonderful product.  Will let you know when I'v seen it.

Talk to you all later

Andrea
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From owner-glass Sun Jan 28 13:37:02 1996
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From: "Andrea King" <andreaking@swin.edu.au>
To: glass@daver.bungi.com
Subject: Depression Glass
Summary: Authenticated sender is <andreaking@gpo.swin.edu.au>
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 08:35:37 +0000
Message-ID: <199601282135.AA32437@lucy.swin.edu.au>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Swinburne University
Precedence: bulk

 (Again re-sending since this one did'nt get through either)

Sharen

Thanks for your explanation of depression glass.  Sounds maravellous,
if you were lucky enough to get hold of some.

I will never look at a piece of broken glass the same!!!!

Andrea
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From owner-glass Sun Jan 28 13:42:00 1996
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From: "Andrea King" <andreaking@swin.edu.au>
To: glass@daver.bungi.com
Subject: Templates
Summary: Authenticated sender is <andreaking@gpo.swin.edu.au>
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 08:40:34 +0000
Message-ID: <199601282140.AA32478@lucy.swin.edu.au>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Swinburne University
Precedence: bulk

Yet another one that didn't make it.......................

Hi,

Can anyone advise me of what is best to glue/adhesive to use when you
put templates onto the glass to cut around.  I haven't found a
suitable solution and find that most will come off when I have to use
the grinder and they get wet.

Any advice greately appreciated.

Andrea
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From owner-glass Sun Jan 28 18:20:58 1996
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X-Path: idirect.com!mrum
From: mrum@idirect.com (mike & carol)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Templates
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 1996 21:18:52 -0500
Message-ID: <199601290218.VAA11354@lucid.idirect.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


>Can anyone advise me of what is best to glue/adhesive to use when you
>put templates onto the glass to cut around.  I haven't found a
>suitable solution and find that most will come off when I have to use
>the grinder and they get wet.
>Any advice greately appreciated.
>Andrea

Hi Andrea, this is Carol

Why not trace around your template with a black, fine point Staedtler
marking pen?  I trace most of my pattern pieces with these
then cut inside the lines and if necessary, grind off any marker that is
left.  If using dark glass, try a gold
marking pen.  Both will come off with a good hard rub when cleaning the
glass before foiling even though they are
supposed to be permanent.

Good luck
Carol
http://web.idirect.com/~studio

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From owner-glass Sun Jan 28 21:48:54 1996
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From: "Andrea King" <andreaking@swin.edu.au>
To: glass@daver.bungi.com
Subject: CUTTING LEAD
Summary: Authenticated sender is <andreaking@gpo.swin.edu.au>
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 16:46:23 +0000
Message-ID: <199601290546.AA24444@lucy.swin.edu.au>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Swinburne University
Precedence: bulk

Hi all

Can anyone help me with a query on some sort of guillotine for 
cutting bulk strips of lead, using a lead knife is too time consuming 
for mas producing.   I have seen the came saw but wondering 
if there was something else.  

Also, I promised to let you know what I thought of the HI GLASS that 
Harald advised us about some time ago.  Well let me tell you I have 
never seen anything like it.  It is absolutely beautiful with such 
richness, texture and markings, very smooth and the colours, wowwwww.
It is a bit dearer than other glasses but as the rep. advised me, plan and design 
my project, then come in and choose the glass.  They have the most 
magnificent greens I've ever seen. (I can feel another butterfly 
coming on, particularly using the colour they call Peacock), and the 
other colours are just as magnificant.

Enough, enough

bye for now

Andrea
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From owner-glass Sun Jan 28 21:54:47 1996
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From: "Andrea King" <andreaking@swin.edu.au>
To: glass@daver.bungi.com
Subject: CUTTING LEAD
Summary: Authenticated sender is <andreaking@gpo.swin.edu.au>
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 16:49:37 +0000
Message-ID: <199601290551.AA15570@lucy.swin.edu.au>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Organization: Swinburne University
Precedence: bulk

Hi all

Can anyone help me with a query on some sort of guillotine for 
cutting bulk strips of lead, using a lead knife is too time consuming
for mas producing.   I have seen the came saw but wondering if there
was something else.  

Also, I promised to let you know what I thought of the HI GLASS that
Harald advised us about some time ago.  Well let me tell you I have
never seen anything like it.  It is absolutely beautiful with such
richness, texture and markings, very smooth and the colours, wowwwww.
It is a bit dearer than other glasses but as the rep. advised me, plan
and design my project, then come in and choose the glass.  They have
the most magnificent greens I've ever seen. (I can feel another
butterfly coming on, particularly using the colour they call Peacock),
and the other colours are just as magnificant.

Enough, enough

bye for now

Andrea
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From owner-glass Mon Jan 29 02:23:22 1996
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From: carole pearson <chicago@pig.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Gatewayed mail message
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 05:20:39 -0500
Message-ID: <199601291020.AA25031@pig.net>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi Glenna and everyone,
I am having a problem when I solder my foiled pieces of glass. Even though I
am trying to get the glass clean and get the foil burnished down tight I am
still getting a lift on the foil and am getting a sharp edge on the solder
bead. Then when I try to clean the piece water gets down inside of the tape
am I have a disaster on my hands. The resulting solder joints are not strong
enough plus the looks of the piece suffer. Any help anyone can offer will be
greatly appreciated.
I am always looking to find a bargain so therefore I do a lot of comparism
shopping. I have found that Warner-Crivillero stained glass supply company
to have the best selection and the best prices, especially when you order
more than one item at a time. My orders were sent promptly and everything
was there without having to back order. I have to tell you that I have only
ordered from them a few times because I am fortunate enough to have a few
good stores locally to shop from, especially for glass. I would recommend
anyone wanting to order glass to get the glass sample sets that I believe
are available from most glass  companies.
Will be looking forward to hearing from anyone that can get my edges to stay
flat.
Thanks
Carole
I'm sending this again because I don't think the first one got through. Have
enjoyed reading all of the interesting mail. 



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From owner-glass Mon Jan 29 03:26:25 1996
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X-Path: nethawk.com!1091
From: 1091@nethawk.com (Sue Eiszler)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Fwd: Re: tiffany lamp question
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 06:28:08 -0500
Message-ID: <v01530503ad325f04d788@[206.97.200.61]>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Howard requested that I forward my question and his response to the whole
group so that it can be archived.
>Subject: Re: tiffany lamp question
>
>Hi Sue...We will do this a little at a time....
>My first suggestion is scrap the clear blue..reason is clear (cathedral type
>glass) INHO should NOT be used except for a little trim or a grid row or for
>a highlight only in any lamp. Clear shows bulbs, hardware, and is VERY harsh
>to look at and has no life in it.
>USE an opalescent (not clear) type glass for the lamp. I would spend some
>extra money for the flowers and the leaves, and do the background in a less
>expensive machine made glass..spectrum, kokomo, armstrong or wissmach.
>Judging from the picture, there should not be pieces that stick up very much
>. Average the height (rock the glass) to find the center and solder it to
>the next piece.
>If you are using one form lose the cardboard strips for the side as Worden
>suggests you use, and cut window glass instead for the sides. It is ok to
>piece the window. Glue them on with silicone rubber (used sparingly).
>It would be easier too use two repeats instead of one. If you have two DO
>NOT put sides on, as the sections have to interlock.
>One section will need an  edge to abut the next section to, so as to match
>them up.
>Two forms will enable you to interlock the bridging pieces, and all you have
>to do is to be careful not to dislodge the glass when switching the forms.
>Need to go back to work...let me know what you have and we can go from there
>-------- REPLY, Original message follows --------
>
>Date: Sunday, 28-Jan-96 07:43 AM
>
>From: Sue Eiszler              \ Internet:    (1091@nethawk.com) To:
>Elaine & Howard Rubin    \ Internet:    (weaver51@teleport.com)
>
>Subject: Re: tiffany lamp question
>
>Hi Howard,
>        I don't know the names of the different types of glass (am really
>ignorant but know what I like and use those types of glass) so the best I
>can do is give you the number that is written on the glass but it may be the
>local stained glass shop's numbering system because it doesn't match with
>any in the Delphi catalog.  I am planning on going to Lansing today (the
>weather was too bad to go yesterday - I have 2 kids at Michigan State which
>is about 1 mile from Delphi) and will stop at Delphi and get the
>name/manuafacturer then.  In the meantime:
>       It is a clear blue glass with large roundish bubbles on the
>underside that range in size up to 1/4"+.   They are randomly placed over
>the surface.  The upperside is very uneven as a result of the bubbles.  The
>number on the glass from the shop in this town is 233 N0061E.
>        I am doing a Worden RC22-17.  Someone suggested using glass head
>pins underneath to even out the glass to fit and someone else suggested bits
>of tacky wax used in the same way.  If either of those would work
>successfully, would it also help to reverse the glass and have the bubble
>side on the outside of the lamp?  Or do I really need to get some other
>glass?
>        Thanks, Howard and boy am I glad you are still on the list.  I have
>a feeling I will need your expertise a lot in the weeks to come.

Sue
1091@nethawk.com







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From owner-glass Mon Jan 29 05:54:02 1996
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X-Path: YaleVM.CIS.Yale.Edu!UCONNVM.UCONN.EDU!HCLADM02
From:         HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu
To:           glass@bungi.com
Subject:      Re: Gatewayed mail message
Date:         Mon, 29 Jan 96 08:49:20 EST
Message-ID:   <960129.085308.EST.HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu>
References: <<199601291020.AA25031@pig.net>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Is it all the time that you are having trouble with foil?  (Oh, what
sentance structure!)  In other words, is it just this roll of
foil.  Sometimes you get duds!  Or have you stored lots of foil for
a long period of time?  Try a new roll of foil.  If that doesn't
work, how are you cleaning the glass?

--
Dorothy Kalahan, Interlibrary Loan  (860) 679-2940  FAX (860) 679-4046
UCONN Health Center Library, POB 4003, Farmington CT 06034-4003
HCLADM02@UConnVM.uconn.edu
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From owner-glass Mon Jan 29 10:00:45 1996
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From: cooperd@camadm.Camosun.BC.CA
To: "GLASS@BUNGI.COM" <GLASS@BUNGI.COM>
Subject: lamp bases
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 09:59:17 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1996Jan29.15917.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Does anyone know where to buy lamp bases at wholesale prices in the Vancouver
B.C. area, or maybe a place that has a lot of selection.  It's really 
hard to fine nice bases especially for mini-lamps.   Donna
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From owner-glass Mon Jan 29 10:54:00 1996
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X-Path: ccinet.ab.ca!kgreenwell
From: kgreenwell@ccinet.ab.ca (Pat Greenwell)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: HI GLASS
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 11:48:33 -0700
Message-ID: <9601291848.AA03330@bach.ccinet.ab.ca>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


>Also, I promised to let you know what I thought of the HI GLASS that
>Harald advised us about some time ago.  Well let me tell you I have
Hi Andrea:
 I missed the original post about Hi Glass. Can you tell me more about
it/where to get it?
Pat

kgreenwell@ccinet.ab.ca
Pat Greenwell
Ponoka,Alberta,Canada


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From owner-glass Mon Jan 29 10:54:40 1996
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From: kgreenwell@ccinet.ab.ca (Pat Greenwell)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Foiling problems
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 11:49:40 -0700
Message-ID: <9601291849.AA03386@bach.ccinet.ab.ca>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk


>I am having a problem when I solder my foiled pieces of glass.
Hi Carole:
After 5 years' experience I have had my sare of lifting foil.
1-Make sure that you don't stretch the foil when you apply it, especially
to inside curves.There's a great temptation to pull it tight & smooth, but
it reslts in lifting.
2-make sure your glass is not only clean but warm! Maybe that isn't a
problem where you live but it's minus 4o here today and when my glass is
cold, it won't cut, and won't foil. Just hold small pieces in your hands
for a few seconds, and see if it helps.
3- I don't get too bent out of shape with the precleaning. I use old
shampoo, old bubblebath, dishwashing detergent or whatever.
Hope this helps.
Pat

kgreenwell@ccinet.ab.ca
Pat Greenwell
Ponoka,Alberta,Canada


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From owner-glass Mon Jan 29 12:17:00 1996
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From: kgreenwell@ccinet.ab.ca (Pat Greenwell)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: lamp bases
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 13:10:40 -0700
Message-ID: <9601292010.AA07003@bach.ccinet.ab.ca>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

>Does anyone know where to buy lamp bases at wholesale prices in the Vancouver
>B.C. area, or maybe a place that has a lot of selection.  It's really
>hard to fine nice bases especially for mini-lamps.   Donna
Hi Donna:
I buy my bases from 2 sources-The Glass Place in Pointe Claire,
Que-1-800-363-7855
and
Kona Stained Glass in Vancouver.-604-877-1332
Both offer wholesale/retail prices.and have good selections.
I want to try Tiffany Stained Glass in Richmond BC, but haven't got there
yet.Do you know if they offer whloesale prices? I trhink they do.
Pat

kgreenwell@ccinet.ab.ca
Pat Greenwell
Ponoka,Alberta,Canada


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From owner-glass Mon Jan 29 16:01:11 1996
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From: kgreenwell@ccinet.ab.ca (Pat Greenwell)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: I need a "bright" idea
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 16:56:39 -0700
Message-ID: <9601292356.AA20548@bach.ccinet.ab.ca>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi everybody:
 I have been given the job of making glass lamps for a renovation at a
local grocery store. The owner wants stained glass lights at each
checkout(which indicate whether they are open or closed. I have the poles
and will fit them on with a 3 1/2" brass ring. Has anybody seen anything
like this or know of any such patterns? Help.
Pat

kgreenwell@ccinet.ab.ca
Pat Greenwell
Ponoka,Alberta,Canada


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From owner-glass Mon Jan 29 22:43:41 1996
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From: ferbar@ix.netcom.com (Yndalcio and Barbara Fernandez )
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: tiffany lamp questions and Canadian supply sources
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 22:42:04 -0800
Message-ID: <199601300642.WAA29878@ix9.ix.netcom.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Peggy, 
Sorry to hear of your mess.  Thanks for the glass crafters flyer info - 
I hadn't noticed that.  Couldn't help notice however that you are on 
prodigy.  I am too.  Have you visited the crafts2 bulletin board there? 
 There is a very active glass group there - friendly people, like here 
- as well as two chat nights, Sunday and Wednesday.  If you're 
interested in chat, check the board for instructions and the password 
to get in.  Occasionally, we get some runover from the singles groups, 
hence the password.  

Open invitation to anyone else from Prodigy.  See you there.  Barbara

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From owner-glass Mon Jan 29 22:55:15 1996
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From: ferbar@ix.netcom.com (Yndalcio and Barbara Fernandez )
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Templates
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 22:54:02 -0800
Message-ID: <199601300654.WAA11584@ix3.ix.netcom.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

You wrote: 

>
>Can anyone advise me of what is best to glue/adhesive to use when you
>put templates onto the glass to cut around.  

Andrea:

I also use the pen method sometimes, as well as light box cutting 
occasionally.  
When I feel I need to attach the pattern (template) to the glass I use 
rubber cement.  The pattern can be attached semi-permanently (and 
subsequently destroys the pattern for re-use) or you can follow the 
directions on the bottle so that the attachment is "temporary", that 
is, it will peel off when you're done.
I've just recently bought some mylar which I thought I'd use for those 
times when I'll be making quite a few of a particular pattern.  Haven't 
tried it yet, though.  I'll let you know.  
        Barbara

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From owner-glass Mon Jan 29 23:03:56 1996
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From: ferbar@ix.netcom.com (Yndalcio and Barbara Fernandez )
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Gatewayed mail message
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 23:02:17 -0800
Message-ID: <199601300702.XAA26620@ix5.ix.netcom.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

You wrote: 
>
>I am having a problem when I solder my foiled pieces of glass. 
Carol:
I, too, had that problem with a kaleidoscope I made recently.  Before I 
finished it, I took in into my local shop to ask if I should rip it 
apart.  They showed me a couple other pieces which they said also had 
that problem, and after finishing and handling, the foil laid down 
some.  They simply told me to go home, not worry and burnish the 
soldered foil a little.  It's now a week later and they were right.  I 
finished the piece and now the seams are behaving better.  Hope the 
same works for you.  Barbara
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From owner-glass Mon Jan 29 23:05:33 1996
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From: ferbar@ix.netcom.com (Yndalcio and Barbara Fernandez )
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Fwd: Re: another lamp question
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 23:03:43 -0800
Message-ID: <199601300703.XAA26840@ix5.ix.netcom.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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---- Begin Forwarded Message
Return-Path: <weaver51@teleport.com>
Received: from desiree.teleport.com by ix7.ix.netcom.com 
(8.6.12/SMI-4.1/Netcom)
	id XAA17411; Sun, 28 Jan 1996 23:14:34 -0800
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Message-Id: <199601290714.XAA11927@desiree.teleport.com>
To: Yndalcio and Barbara Fernandez <ferbar@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: another lamp question
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 96 23:12:34 -0500
From: Elaine & Howard Rubin <weaver51@teleport.com>
X-Mailer: E-Mail Connection v2.5.03

-- [ From: Elaine & Howard Rubin * EMC.Ver #2.5.02 ] --

Hello Barbara, some suggestions without knowing the QUALITY of your
instructor...
The 16" full forms are ok to start with, assuming your instructor as 
some
experience.
Cones usually use longer pieces of glass, domes generally use smaller 
pieces
due to curves in both directions.
A non grid background is usually easier to do as there is no CAREFUL
alignment in both directions to mess up.
Some of the cones have a tuck row, and can be tricky to do. (I got 
tricks
for those).
Pick out a specific one (style) and I can comment on it.
If you have not bought it, and your instructor does not sell them, I 
can
have a set up shipped to you for a bit of a discount from the retail 
price.
If YOUR instructor does indeed have a shop, and sells supplies...buy 
from
her/him
as they may resent your buying elsewhere.
SPEND money on quality hand made glass for florals, and you can go less
expensive glass (machine made) for background grids or plain background
lamps. A Dragonfly is VERY hard lamp to do because it is mostly 
background
and hard to color phase. 
If you have the expertise, youmay forward this post to the list as well 

-------- REPLY, Original message follows --------

Date: Friday, 26-Jan-96 09:24 PM

From: Yndalcio and Barbara Fernandez \ Internet:    
(ferbar@ix.netcom.com)
To:   Glass list               \ Internet:    (glass@bungi.com)

Subject: Re: another lamp question

Hello all!
I'm about to start my first lamp project and am seeking advice.  My  
teacher suggests using a Worden pattern no larger than 16 inches.  Does 

anyone have a favorite pattern ..  one you thought was particularly  
good
for a beginner?  Is there an upper limit of pieces for a first  project 

From owner-glass Tue Jan 30 01:58:04 1996
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X-Path: sage.wt.com.au!rdeint
From: Rexort International P/L  -- HIGLASS <rdeint@sage.wt.com.au>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: HIGLASS - Contact Info
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 1996 17:54:43 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <199601310154.RAA29369@sage.wt.com.au>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I received a number of request to provide more information about
HIGLASS.

HIGLASS is manufacturer of handmade coloured art glass using
the very best silica sand and minerals from Western Australia. 

We are located in Perth, Western Australia. Kardinya is about 15km
from the Perth city centre and about 8km from Fremantle.

3 different ranges are available:
			Usage
	"CLASSIC"	Leadlight / Stained Glass
	"90"		Fusing, compatible to other "90" glasses
	GIN		Fusing, compatible to Clear Float (window glass)

We also manufacture fused glass panels and other fused glassware to
order. Fusing- and Slumping-Services are available to our clients.

For more detailed information (via email or paper brochure) contact:

	HIGLASS
	Attn: Harald Reiss
	8 Parkinson Lane
	Kardinya, WA 6163
	AUSTRALIA

	Phone:	(++61) (9) 314 6868
	Fax:  	(++61) (9) 314 1386
	Email:  rdeint@wt.com.au

Harald.
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From owner-glass Tue Jan 30 07:28:15 1996
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X-Path: avery.med.virginia.edu!lbl
From: "Laurel B. Hall" <lbl@avery.med.virginia.edu>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Hi Glass
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 1996 10:25:34 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <199601301525.KAA60478@avery.med.Virginia.EDU>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi, I recently saw a post in which someone mentioned Hi Glass.
I'm interested in finding where I might be able to purchase
it.  I live in Virginia.  Can anyone offer a suggestion?
Thanks, Laurie
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From owner-glass Tue Jan 30 08:23:40 1996
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From: kgreenwell@ccinet.ab.ca (Pat Greenwell)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: HIGLASS - Contact Info
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 1996 09:19:45 -0700
Message-ID: <9601301619.AA20483@bach.ccinet.ab.ca>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

>I received a number of request to provide more information about
>HIGLASS.
Your glass sounds wonderful. Is there a distributor on this side of the world?
Pat

kgreenwell@ccinet.ab.ca
Pat Greenwell
Ponoka,Alberta,Canada


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From owner-glass Tue Jan 30 14:11:22 1996
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From: 1091@nethawk.com (Sue Eiszler)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Templates
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 1996 17:13:13 -0500
Message-ID: <v01530501ad34475d91b0@[206.97.200.67]>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

>I've just recently bought some mylar which I thought I'd use for those
>times when I'll be making quite a few of a particular pattern.  Haven't
>tried it yet, though.  I'll let you know.
>        Barbara

I have just been experimenting with using clear contact paper on both sides
of the pattern.  Then I use rubber cement to stick the pattern pieces on
the glass.  It does take a while for the glue to dry so that the pattern
doesn't shift on the glass when you begin to cut.  But I have been able to
reuse the pattern pieces a number of times.  Beats all that cutting out.
The pattern pieces seem to survive the grinding process quite well too.  I
just let them air dry when done.

Does anyone know if using contact paper is cheaper than using mylar or visa
versa?  How does the mylar work?

Sue
1091@nethawk.com







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From owner-glass Tue Jan 30 15:03:01 1996
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From: jhendershott@macnet.com (Janie Hendershott)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Gatewayed mail message
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 1996 14:59:22 -0800
Message-ID: <199601302259.OAA21885@jack.macnet.com>
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Subscribe
jhendershott@macnet.com

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From owner-glass Tue Jan 30 16:17:51 1996
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From: Ken Wood <kwood@dialnet.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Templates
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 1996 18:16:51 -0600
Message-ID: <1996Jan30.121651.0>
References: <<v01530501ad34475d91b0@[206.97.200.67]>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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Sue Eiszler wrote:
> 
> >I've just recently bought some mylar which I thought I'd use for those
> >times when I'll be making quite a few of a particular pattern.  Haven't
> >tried it yet, though.  I'll let you know.
> >        Barbara
> 
> I have just been experimenting with using clear contact paper on both sides
> of the pattern.  Then I use rubber cement to stick the pattern pieces on
> the glass.  It does take a while for the glue to dry so that the pattern
> doesn't shift on the glass when you begin to cut.  But I have been able to
> reuse the pattern pieces a number of times.  Beats all that cutting out.
> The pattern pieces seem to survive the grinding process quite well too.  I
> just let them air dry when done.
> 
> Does anyone know if using contact paper is cheaper than using mylar or visa
> versa?  How does the mylar work?
> 
> Sue
> 1091@nethawk.com
> I have had some success using clear "Contact" paper on both sides of my 
template and using a glue stick to temporarily hold the template to the 
glass. It only takes a little spot of the glue stick.

Ken
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 31 05:29:21 1996
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From: Rexort International P/L  -- HIGLASS <rdeint@sage.wt.com.au>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: HIGLASS - Contact Info
Date: Wed, 31 Jan 1996 18:19:00 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <199602010219.SAA18678@sage.wt.com.au>
References: <<9601301619.AA20483@bach.ccinet.ab.ca>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Dear Pat
> >I received a number of request to provide more information about
> >HIGLASS.
> Your glass sounds wonderful. Is there a distributor on this side of the world?
> Pat
Unfortunately we have not yet appointed distributors on your side of the
world, but we are more than happy to supply ex factory direct from down under.
Harald.
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 31 05:29:56 1996
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From: Rexort International P/L  -- HIGLASS <rdeint@sage.wt.com.au>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Hi Glass
Date: Wed, 31 Jan 1996 18:16:52 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <199602010216.SAA18668@sage.wt.com.au>
References: <<199601301525.KAA60478@avery.med.Virginia.EDU>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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> 
> Hi, I recently saw a post in which someone mentioned Hi Glass.
> I'm interested in finding where I might be able to purchase
> it.  I live in Virginia.  Can anyone offer a suggestion?
> Thanks, Laurie

Contact info is:

        HIGLASS
        8 Parkinson Lane
        Kardinya, WA 6163
        AUSTRALIA

        Phone:  (++61) (9) 314 6868
        Fax:    (++61) (9) 314 1386
        Email:  rdeint@wt.com.au


Regards,
Harald
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 31 06:25:09 1996
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From: delphigl@voyager.net (Delphi Stained Glass)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Templates
Date: Wed, 31 Jan 1996 09:23:01 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <199601311423.JAA23348@vixa.voyager.net>
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>Sue Eiszler wrote:
>> 
>> >I've just recently bought some mylar which I thought I'd use for those
>> >times when I'll be making quite a few of a particular pattern.  Haven't
>> >tried it yet, though.  I'll let you know.
>> >        Barbara
>> 
>> I have just been experimenting with using clear contact paper on both sides
>> of the pattern.  Then I use rubber cement to stick the pattern pieces on
>> the glass.  It does take a while for the glue to dry so that the pattern
>> doesn't shift on the glass when you begin to cut.  But I have been able to
>> reuse the pattern pieces a number of times.  Beats all that cutting out.
>> The pattern pieces seem to survive the grinding process quite well too.  I
>> just let them air dry when done.

In the 10 years I have been working with glass, I have personally found that
working with mylar is easier.  I actually use vellum which is a much heavier
stock and withstands scoring and water.  I have tried rubber cement but
don't like it very much because it takes a while to dry and also leaves a
bit of a residue that needs to be removed later.  Instead I use 2-sided tape
on the back of the template.  

Contact paper works but it looses its adhesion after just a couple uses so
another template would have to be cut out.  With the vellum, I just add
another strip of tape.

Stephanie

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From owner-glass Wed Jan 31 06:39:15 1996
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From: Ranjani Ramamurthy <ranjani@cae.wisc.edu>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Please unsubscribe..
Date: Wed, 31 Jan 1996 8:36:28 CST
Message-ID: <199601311436.IAA21380@snake-1.cae.wisc.edu>
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Hi,

        Please remove me ( ranjani@cae.wisc.edu) from this mailing
        list.

        Thanks

        Ranjani
        
--
Ranjani Ramamurthy 
ranjani@cae.wisc.edu

  "Sometimes I think the surest sign that intelligent life exists 
   elsewhere in the universe is that none of it has tried to 
   contact us."          -- Calvin

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