From owner-glass Mon Oct 2 07:52:05 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0szmAt-0000Y8a; Mon, 2 Oct 95 07:48 PDT X-Path: gjr From: gjr@daver.bungi.com (Glenna Rand) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Lamp Bases Date: Mon, 2 Oct 1995 07:48:37 PDT Message-ID: Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Hi, Glenna here, just wondering if anyone has a quality distributor for lamp bases. I've been getting mine from a local shop in the bay area and would like a larger variety. Thanks for any info. -- From owner-glass Mon Oct 2 08:36:35 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0szmsL-0000aIa; Mon, 2 Oct 95 08:33 PDT X-Path: craftweb.com!kmcmahon From: kmcmahon@craftweb.com (Kathleen McMahon) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Lamp Bases Date: Mon, 02 Oct 1995 07:24:09 -0700 Message-ID: <199510021533.IAA27025@blob.best.net> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Glass Crafters carries lamp bases. Their web page is at: http://www.craftweb.com/org/glascrafts/glascraf.shtml >Hi, Glenna here, just wondering if anyone has a quality distributor >for lamp bases. I've been getting mine from a local shop in the >bay area and would like a larger variety. > >Thanks for any info. > > > >-- > > From owner-glass Mon Oct 2 12:02:16 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0szq6w-0000hva; Mon, 2 Oct 95 12:01 PDT X-Path: ptialaska.net!dstewart From: dstewart@ptialaska.net (Sue/Dave Stewart) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Lamp Bases Date: Mon, 2 Oct 1995 11:04:14 -0900 Message-ID: Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk >Hi, Glenna here, just wondering if anyone has a quality distributor >for lamp bases. I've been getting mine from a local shop in the >bay area and would like a larger variety. > >Thanks for any info. > >Dear Glenna, I have bought mine from Houston Stained Glass. In fact, most everything I get is from them. Never any problems. They are wholesale only though. If this applies, call (800) 231-0148. Byeeeee Sue Sue Stewart A Touch of Glass Where Glass is Class! From owner-glass Mon Oct 2 12:42:56 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0szqk8-0000LAa; Mon, 2 Oct 95 12:41 PDT X-Path: shani.net!yeelut1 From: MEIR ROTFLEISCH To: GLASS Subject: Gatewayed mail message Date: Mon, 2 Oct 1995 21:38:54 +0300 (WET) Message-ID: Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk please rmove me from the list please add the name yeelut@euronet.co.il From owner-glass Mon Oct 2 15:53:59 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0sztjD-0000kua; Mon, 2 Oct 95 15:52 PDT X-Path: ednet1.osl.or.gov!erubin From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Lamp Bases Date: Mon, 2 Oct 1995 15:50:14 -0700 Message-ID: <199510022250.AA02189@ednet1.osl.or.gov> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk hi glenna, howard here....let me know what kind, quality, and volume you are looking for. I have many sources for good bronze ones as well as th eusual pot metal (zinc) ones. -- From owner-glass Mon Oct 2 17:13:07 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0szuxO-0000Pza; Mon, 2 Oct 95 17:11 PDT X-Path: yarrow.wt.com.au!rdeint From: Rexort International P/L -- HIGLASS To: glass@bungi.com Subject: New Product: Coloured Art Glass fusable to Float Glass Date: Tue, 3 Oct 1995 08:10:41 +0800 (WST) Message-ID: <199510030010.IAA18688@yarrow.wt.com.au> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk HiGlass announced a new range of coloured art glass compatible to clear float glass. This information might be of interest to readers of this newsgroup. The official announcement follows: HIGLASS GIN RANGE: FLOAT GLASS COMPATIBLE ----------------------------------------- We are pleased to announce that we have produced a range of HiGlass which is compatible to clear float glass (tested with Pilkington Australia clear float). We will be calling this special assortment GIN. This will clearly open new opportunities in fusing and slumping projects. For further information please feel free to contact HiGlass Manufacturers. The HiGlass brochure outlines some more details: THE COMPANY ----------- HIGLASS, Australias own coloured sheet glass manufacturer is committed to producing specialty art glass to the highest standard. The HIGLASS factory is located in Kardinya, Western Australia, approximately 17 km from the city centre of Perth. All specialised tools and equipment, including the glass furnace, have been custom designed and built for the production of HIGLASS coloured sheet glass. HIGLASS is committed to support the growing demand in fusing and slumping processes. The HIGLASS GIN range now enables the exploration into the area of combining coloured art glass and clear float glass. HIGLASS is the jewel in art glass - glass of a quality that has almost disappeared from the artists palette, now available to the discerning connoisseur. HAND-ROLLED SHEET GLASS ----------------------- HIGLASS sheet glass is available in a wide range of colours, filling the gap between imported sheets and the needs of Australias professional glass artists. The range includes fabulous colours and colour mixes not previously available in Australia. HIGLASS is composed from the purest sands and minerals. The stringent quality control and computer monitored manufacturing process enable HIGLASS to supply glass products at world class quality. The flow of colours, the streaks, the characteristic texture, the distinctive surface and occasional ripples and bubbles are unique in every sheet. With the brilliance and clarity of its colours, each piece of HIGLASS will be a stunning feature in the leadlight and stained glass world. The 90 and GIN ranges have been developed to suit advanced fusing and slumping projects. Because of their natural oval shape and rounded edges, the sheets are easy and safer to handle, and the superior cutting qualities of HIGLASS make the most complex patterns easy to achieve. SPECIFICATION ------------- SHAPE The oval shape of the HIGLASS sheet is a result of the natural flo w of molten glass when it is processed. The rounded edges, which can be leaded, are approximately 3-4 mm thick. Square sheets can be produced to special order. SIZE AND WEIGHT Width: approx. 250 to 400 mm Length: approx. 400 to 650 mm Weight: approx. 800 to 1400 grm NOMINAL THICKNESS Standard: 3 mm On request: 6 mm and others COEFFICIENT OF EXPANSION (calculated) (The specified coefficient is a guideline value. It does not represent guaranteed characteristics. e therefore recommend testing suitability for the intended use.) On request available: - 90 Range: 90 +- 1 * 10-7 - GIN Range: Adjusted to clear float glass. TYPICAL FEATURES Ripples, bubbles, characteristic texture and distinctive surface REFIRING All colours except some reds can be refired for slumping, fusing or painting without striking. Some Reds will strike and require special care, but can produce extraordinary effects. HIGLASS COLOUR RANGE -------------------- Currently more than 50 colours available: CLEAR BLUE and VIOLET: Blue (L/M/D) Amethyst (L/M/D) Mauve Aqua (L/M/D) Regency Blue Blue Mauve Steel Blue Blue Gum Sapphire Pink Mauve GREEN: Moss Green (L/M/D) Grass Green Anna Green (L/M) Olive (L/D) Gum Green (L/D) Lime Kardinya Green Jade Green(M/D) RED, PINK and YELLOW: Pink (L/M/D) Red Wine Karri Honey Blackcurrant Red Ayers Rock Red Honey Tea Dingo Centre Red Kalgoorlie Silver Yellow Mango Mango Red BROWN and GREY: Brown (L/M/D) Moss Brown (L/M/D) Chestnut Seal Grey MULTI COLOUR MIXES: HiGlass One Peacock Purnululu Honolulu Spring Sky Tree Bark Avon Valley Bottlebrush Lagoon Mango Mix Red Wine Blues Kangaroo Run Broome's Sunset Broome's Clouds Clear with Streaks Amy Bernstein Dolphin Green Dolphin Blue Golden Amethyst Autumn Wood Aqua Red Blue Danube Budgie Most colours are available in light (L), medium (M) and dark (D) shades. Please refer to our price list for full colour range. HIGLASS PRODUCT RANGE - Hand-Rolled Coloured Sheet Glass - 90 Range - GIN Range - Rondels (made to order) - Glass Blobs (made to order) - Coloured Glass Frit and Cullet (made to order) - Special Orders CONTACT: HIGLASS 8 Parkinson Lane Kardinya, WA 6163 AUSTRALIA Phone: (++61)(09) 314 6868 Fax: (++61)(09) 314 1386 E-Mail: rdeint@yarrow.wt.com.au 09/95-2 @ Copyright HIGLASS 1995 Regards, Harald. -- Harald Reiss, Rexort International Pty Ltd -- HiGlass Perth, Western Australia rdeint@yarrow.wt.com.au From owner-glass Mon Oct 2 18:22:09 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0szw2R-0000Xwa; Mon, 2 Oct 95 18:20 PDT X-Path: gjr From: gjr@daver.bungi.com (Glenna Rand) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Lamp Bases Date: Mon, 2 Oct 1995 18:20:17 PDT Message-ID: Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk [In the message entitled "Re: Lamp Bases" on Oct 2, 15:50, Elaine Lea Rubin writes:] > > hi glenna, howard here....let me know what kind, quality, and volume > you are looking for. I have many sources for good bronze ones as well > as th eusual pot metal (zinc) ones. Well actually I wanted something quite heavy and unusual. I want to tie in our contemporary furniture. Only one for now. -- From owner-glass Mon Oct 2 22:41:59 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0t005v-0000X2a; Mon, 2 Oct 95 22:40 PDT X-Path: ednet1.osl.or.gov!erubin From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Lamp Bases Date: Mon, 2 Oct 1995 22:38:19 -0700 Message-ID: <199510030538.AA05891@ednet1.osl.or.gov> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk so far so good...I have a lot of bases, both old and new ....describe or reference to any style and a possuible catalog or available picture.. Howard -- From owner-glass Tue Oct 3 08:07:12 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0t08to-0000Vka; Tue, 3 Oct 95 08:04 PDT X-Path: gjr From: gjr@daver.bungi.com (Glenna Rand) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Lamp Bases Date: Tue, 3 Oct 1995 08:04:28 PDT Message-ID: Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk [In the message entitled "Re: Lamp Bases" on Oct 2, 22:38, Elaine Lea Rubin writes:] > > so far so good...I have a lot of bases, both old and new ....describe > or reference to any style and a possuible catalog or available picture.. Well I really like a base I found in "Stained Glass" by Kay Weiner. I don't know if you have this book or not,..it's on page 72. I like bases that are somewhat different than the usual. I plan on starting another lamp in a few weeks. It's not a huge rush, I just thought I'd start looking now though. Also wondering if you get the free magazine (avail. from retail distributors) - "Stained Glass News" ? I got a copy from Delphi on my last order and I really enjoyed it. I haven't found it through the retail shops though. I'd love to get it regularly. Glenna -- From owner-glass Tue Oct 3 08:42:21 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0t09Sg-0000iFa; Tue, 3 Oct 95 08:40 PDT X-Path: HOPE.CIT.HOPE.EDU!MULLER%ADMIN From: MULLER%ADMIN@HOPE.CIT.HOPE.EDU To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Stained Glass News Date: Tue, 03 Oct 1995 11:40:09 -0500 (EST) Message-ID: <1995Oct3.6409.0> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Glenna, I live in Holland about 30 miles from Grand Rapids, MI, where Stained Glass News is published. It is only available through your retail store. Your retail store needs to contact them in order to start having it available on a regular basis. It is a great newsletter. I also am interested in unusual lamp bases. I haven't made a lamp yet, but would like to, so I'm listening to your conversation with Howard. Barb Muller e-mail: muller@hope.edu From owner-glass Tue Oct 3 09:24:19 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0t0A7G-0000RRa; Tue, 3 Oct 95 09:22 PDT X-Path: ukanaix.cc.ukans.edu!elgarber From: Ellen Garber To: glass@bungi.com Subject: subscribe Date: Tue, 3 Oct 1995 11:22:21 -0500 (CDT) Message-ID: Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Please subscribe Shanna@databank.com From owner-glass Tue Oct 3 13:14:46 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0t0Did-0000pya; Tue, 3 Oct 95 13:13 PDT X-Path: ukanaix.cc.ukans.edu!elgarber From: Ellen Garber To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Stained Glass News Date: Tue, 3 Oct 1995 15:13:21 -0500 (CDT) Message-ID: References: <<1995Oct3.6409.0>> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk How often does the Stained Glass News come out? I don't have regular access to it, only occasionally. Is it a monthly publication?On Tue, 3 Oct 1995, it was written: > Glenna, > > I live in Holland about 30 miles from Grand Rapids, MI, where Stained > Glass News is published. It is only available through your retail store. > Your retail store needs to contact them in order to start having > it available on a regular basis. It is a great newsletter. > > I also am interested in unusual lamp bases. I haven't made a lamp > yet, but would like to, so I'm listening to your conversation > with Howard. > > Barb Muller > e-mail: muller@hope.edu > From owner-glass Tue Oct 3 15:08:27 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0t0FUU-0000sha; Tue, 3 Oct 95 15:07 PDT X-Path: mail.prodigy.com!MPGP79B From: MPGP79B@prodigy.com (PEGGY M PALM) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Stained Glass News Date: Tue, 03 Oct 1995 18:02:11 EDT Message-ID: <013.02304104.MPGP79B@prodigy.com> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk > How often does the Stained Glass News come out? According to the fine print on the back of the latest issue, it's published 4 times a year: February, April, September, and November, usually arriving the first of the month. One retail store owner tells me that the stores pay to receive a case of newsletters, which they distribute for free with purchases. The theory is that you will find irresistible supplies/projects described in the newsletter and return to the store to purchase same, thus increasing business. Back issues can be purchased from the publisher (Scott Haebich) until the supply runs out, but his purpose is to encourage retail buying, so he has declined all suggestions to put the newletter on an individual subscription basis. (Note that he owns a retail store in Grand Rapids, which several people have said is well worth a visit.) Hope this helps! Peggy From owner-glass Tue Oct 3 17:21:51 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0t0HXr-0000TCa; Tue, 3 Oct 95 17:18 PDT X-Path: gjr From: gjr@daver.bungi.com (Glenna Rand) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Stained Glass News Date: Tue, 3 Oct 1995 17:18:29 PDT Message-ID: Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk [In the message entitled "Stained Glass News" on Oct 3, 11:40, MULLER%ADMIN@HOPE.CIT.HOPE.EDU writes:] > I live in Holland about 30 miles from Grand Rapids, MI, where Stained > Glass News is published. It is only available through your retail store. > Your retail store needs to contact them in order to start having > it available on a regular basis. It is a great newsletter. Hi Barb; Do you know if there is a charge to the retail store? -- From owner-glass Tue Oct 3 20:07:12 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0t0K8W-0000eha; Tue, 3 Oct 95 20:04 PDT X-Path: ednet1.osl.or.gov!erubin From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Lamp Bases Date: Tue, 3 Oct 1995 20:02:17 -0700 Message-ID: <199510040302.AA06664@ednet1.osl.or.gov> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Hi Glenna, I do not have that book, but if you want to get into it deeper, send me a photo-copy, (ask for address) and I will try to pin it down for you. There are general rules(mine) for the proportions for height and diameter to the height of a base that to me, looks good. It usually a good idea to have either the base or shade dimensions to be able to see what can be done...Howard -- From owner-glass Tue Oct 3 20:17:45 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0t0KIw-0000c6a; Tue, 3 Oct 95 20:15 PDT X-Path: ednet1.osl.or.gov!erubin From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: New Product: Coloured Art Glass fusable to Float Glass Date: Tue, 3 Oct 1995 20:13:06 -0700 Message-ID: <199510040313.AA09510@ednet1.osl.or.gov> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk This is Howard...I am almost exclusively a lamp shade maker (Tiffany) and to date have built 1,025 shades. I use (of course) opals, rather than cathedral type glass. What I am looking for are JEWELS for the 5 basic dragonfly lamps. I generally get them from CAG, and have 10+ old cases of Bullseye ones. I wonder if you can do any, and would like to find out about color phasing or swirls in them? I also have been known to trade for my work as well as buy and sell. I have been doing them for 15+ years and feel i am a professional. If you have any interest let me know, by the way, fusing compatible or tested is not a concern for me. Enjoy...it is only glass -- From owner-glass Tue Oct 3 20:53:52 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0t0Kqc-0000MQa; Tue, 3 Oct 95 20:50 PDT X-Path: nwlink.com!vlawson From: vlawson@nwlink.com (Victoria Lawson) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: New Product: Coloured Art Glass fusable to Float Glass Date: Tue, 03 Oct 1995 20:49:24 -0700 Message-ID: <199510040342.UAA02891@washington.nwlink.com> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk unsubscribe Victoria Lawson (sorry,,, the volume of e-mail I receive has gone crazy... I need to winnow where i can... but I plan to keep up with the newsgroup) thanks... Vicki Lawson ---------------------------------------------- ...you've got crayon teeth, crayon teeth, rainbows in your molars... Largesse Duckworth ---------------------------------------------- From owner-glass Wed Oct 4 12:54:07 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0t0ZpT-0000tTa; Wed, 4 Oct 95 12:50 PDT X-Path: mail.prodigy.com!MPGP79B From: MPGP79B@prodigy.com (PEGGY M PALM) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Name That Lamp Date: Wed, 04 Oct 1995 15:42:27 EDT Message-ID: <013.02359554.MPGP79B@prodigy.com> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk I was approached today with a question about repairing an old lampshade but I don't have a clue. I thought perhaps someone could point me in the right direction? The situation is this: The lamp is at least 60 years old, a small 6-sided shade, about 6-7 inches tall per side with a nonvented 2.5-3 inch cap. The sides are solid glass (looks somewhat like Spectrum white/amber opal to me). They rest in a metal framework (definitely NOT lead came) and are held in place by metal clips at the top and bottom of each side but are not fastened in any other way. The metal frame has some small areas of scroll work that seem to have been molded into the metal. It is very brittle stuff that looks like a silvery base metal. The entire frame is painted white, although the inside of the cap looks like brass. The metal frame has cracked through near the clip that holds the bottom of one side. Another clip is missing and the glass is held in with masking tape :) . The whole thing gave me the impression of an old- fashioned do-it-yourself kit. The lamp is the property of the mother of the man who brought it to me, and has much sentimental value for her. I hesitate to make matters worse in ignorance and have told him so, but said I would try to scout out some ideas from others who might know more. Does anyone recognize this type of lamp or have suggestions for stabilizing it? Thanks in advance! Peggy From owner-glass Wed Oct 4 22:36:02 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0t0ixB-0000TDa; Wed, 4 Oct 95 22:34 PDT X-Path: ednet1.osl.or.gov!erubin From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Name That Lamp Date: Wed, 4 Oct 1995 22:32:04 -0700 Message-ID: <199510050532.AA09389@ednet1.osl.or.gov> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Guess who,,,The glass if the lamp is that old is NOT spectrum. If I were to guess...Kokomo.Carefully scratch the metal where it will not show, see if solder will stick to it...turn iron down as low as possible and still ahve it melt solder. If the metal does not take solder, it is possible ton bridge the gap (crack) with foil and solder to that. If the metal is solderable, solder any stiff type of sheet metal, brass, or copper to the seam of the shade, insert the glass and bend the metal tab you have created over on it. The main concern is if the cage (metal)n is lead or pewter, is not to melt it. You may have to use a strong flux to break through years of dirt. It also will help to scratch the metal shiny before attempting to get solder to stick to it. enjoy...ask for more help if you need it....Howard -- From owner-glass Fri Oct 6 07:36:15 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0t1Dqk-0000P0a; Fri, 6 Oct 95 07:34 PDT X-Path: vixa.voyager.net!delphigl From: delphigl@voyager.net (Delphi Stained Glass) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Glass Guilds Date: Fri, 6 Oct 1995 10:31:12 -0400 Message-ID: <199510061431.KAA25782@vixa.voyager.net> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk I wondering if anybody belongs to a glass guild. If so, can you share more about it. Sometimes my creativity gets a little stagnant, so I joined several guilds (The Brewster Society, Assoc of Stained Glass Lamp Artists, the Michigan Glass Guild). How enlightening and exciting! Sharing ideas, discussing problems, learning new techniques -- it can be so much fun. There are so many interesting and creative people to meet! The potential of creative growth is so exciting! Because of my experiences, I have started a column at my web-site which pertains to broadening your stained glass horizons, which contains information glass guilds, societies, associations. Any help with this is greatly appreciated. :) Stephanie ______________________________________________________________________________ | | | Stephanie Braman | E-mail : delphigl@vixa.voyager.net | | DELPHI STAINED GLASS | WWW : http://www.voyager.net/delphiglass | | 2116 E. Michigan Ave. | Voice : 1-800-248-2048 (USA, Canada) | | Lansing, MI 48912 | 1-517-482-2617 (International) | | U.S.A. | FAX : 1-800-748-0374 (USA, Canada) | | | 1-517-482-4028 (International) | |______________________________________________________________________________| From owner-glass Fri Oct 6 07:49:24 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0t1E4h-0000u7a; Fri, 6 Oct 95 07:48 PDT X-Path: gjr From: gjr@daver.bungi.com (Glenna Rand) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Glass Guilds Date: Fri, 6 Oct 1995 07:48:17 PDT Message-ID: Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk [In the message entitled "Glass Guilds" on Oct 6, 10:31, Delphi Stained Glass writes:] > > Sometimes my creativity gets a little stagnant, so I joined several guilds > (The Brewster Society, Assoc of Stained Glass Lamp Artists, the Michigan > Glass Guild). How enlightening and exciting! Sharing ideas, discussing > problems, learning new techniques -- it can be so much fun. There are so > many interesting and creative people to meet! The potential of creative > growth is so exciting! Hi Stephanie I don't belong to a glass guild but I do agree with you about learning new techniques. There's always someone out there that discovers another way to do something. I think I'll check out your www site to see if there are any guild close by. Glenna -- From owner-glass Fri Oct 6 22:26:25 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0t1Rky-0000cNa; Fri, 6 Oct 95 22:25 PDT X-Path: ednet1.osl.or.gov!erubin From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Glass Guilds Date: Fri, 6 Oct 1995 22:22:22 -0700 Message-ID: <199510070522.AA25812@ednet1.osl.or.gov> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk to Stephanie...this is Howard..I specialize in all types of lamps, with the odyssey being my main stay for sales. I teach classes in lamp making as well. I am the major source of knowledge for this area, rural oregon central coast. I am developing an answer list and order of lamp making (faq) using worden, odyssey, and simple panel lamps. The instructions are for ease, production, accurate, efficient, and quality workmanship. ALL instructions are and have been tested by me and my students. I can and do generally answer most questions asked of me on by the list. I have 16 years experience, and some credentials within the trade. I would be interested in learning more about the guild(s) and what they are supposed to do. enjoy...Howard -- From owner-glass Sun Oct 8 09:34:26 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0t1ya4-0000Zqa; Sun, 8 Oct 95 09:28 PDT X-Path: aol.com!SGNinfo From: SGNinfo@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Subject: subscribe Date: Sun, 8 Oct 1995 12:27:25 -0400 Message-ID: <1995Oct8.82725.0> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Subscribe, please. Or rather, re-subscribe, as I've apparently been disconnected from the mailing list. From owner-glass Sun Oct 8 11:56:31 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0t20rA-00003Wa; Sun, 8 Oct 95 11:53 PDT X-Path: pilot.msu.edu!rosochac From: "Lisa Anne Rosochacki" To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Stained Glass News Date: Sun, 8 Oct 1995 14:53:24 -0400 (EDT) Message-ID: <199510081853.OAA108422@pilot06.cl.msu.edu> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Hi I saw that there were a few posts about Stained Glass News and I thought that since I work for the publisher I could maybe answer some of the questions. Yes the stores purchase the papers adn provide them to their customers for free. The paper comes out 4 times a year and on the back page in "The Fine Print" section there is a listing of all the back issues that we still have and you can send away for. If your store doesn't carry the paper have them call the offices at 616/940-2999. I hope that that kind of answers a few of the questions. TTYL Lisa From owner-glass Mon Oct 9 08:24:27 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0t2K2K-0000Pna; Mon, 9 Oct 95 08:22 PDT X-Path: gjr From: gjr@daver.bungi.com (Glenna Rand) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Cleaning Old Glass Date: Mon, 9 Oct 1995 08:22:10 PDT Message-ID: Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Hi everyone, Glenna here,..just wondering if anyone knew the best way to clean old glass. This weekend a friend gave me 2 boxes of old glass (he thinks dating back to the 20's) It was stored in a garage for years and was extremely dirty. I have washed everything in a water and dishsoap solution. Some of the film (especially on the hammered finish) didn't come off. Any suggestions? Also noticed that some pieces had caulking around them. Was there a specific time period that dates back to the use of caulking? I must say the scraps are beautiful! I thought perhaps now would be a good time to use these up and make a form lampshade. There was also a leaded panel that was broken into about 15 sections. I was going to try to assemble and redo the piece. But it is kinda confusing to piece together. Any suggestions? Thanks. -- From owner-glass Mon Oct 9 10:50:16 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0t2MJc-0000oAa; Mon, 9 Oct 95 10:48 PDT X-Path: vixa.voyager.net!delphigl From: delphigl@voyager.net (Delphi Stained Glass) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Glass Guilds Date: Mon, 9 Oct 1995 13:45:58 -0400 Message-ID: <199510091745.NAA22077@vixa.voyager.net> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Hi Howard, >to Stephanie...this is Howard..I specialize in all types of lamps, >with the odyssey being my main stay for sales. I teach classes in >lamp making as well. I am the major source of knowledge for this >area, rural oregon central coast. I am developing an answer list >and order of lamp making (faq) using worden, odyssey, and simple >panel lamps. The instructions are for ease, production, accurate, >efficient, and quality workmanship. ALL instructions are and have been >tested by me and my students. I can and do generally answer most >questions asked of me on by the list. Please let send a copy of your faq when it's ready. > I would be interested in >learning more about the guild(s) and what they are supposed to do. I think the guild you may be most interested in is the Association of Stained Glass Lamp Artists (AGSLA). The president of this organization is Carol Conti who has been making and teaching for 19 years. I am sure you have seen their big project, the "Lamps for All Seasons" calendars, which is great exposure for their members. They had an exhibition at the '95 trade show in Seattle, which I have heard was very impressive and drew quite a crowd! Their newsletters contain many helpful tips and ideas that their members share. From just 1 tip (photographing lamps), I was able to recoop my cost of membership, which BTW is very affordable at only $10. I suggest you give them a try. You can contact them at: Association of Stained Glass Lamp Artists, 5070 Cromwell Dr., NW - Dept W, Gig Harbor, WA 98335. If I can be of further assistance, let me know. Stephanie ______________________________________________________________________________ | | | Stephanie Braman | E-mail : delphigl@vixa.voyager.net | | DELPHI STAINED GLASS | WWW : http://www.voyager.net/delphiglass | | 2116 E. Michigan Ave. | Voice : 1-800-248-2048 (USA, Canada) | | Lansing, MI 48912 | 1-517-482-2617 (International) | | U.S.A. | FAX : 1-800-748-0374 (USA, Canada) | | | 1-517-482-4028 (International) | |______________________________________________________________________________| From owner-glass Mon Oct 9 10:59:19 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0t2MT6-0000fta; Mon, 9 Oct 95 10:58 PDT X-Path: YaleVM.CIS.Yale.Edu!UCONNVM.UCONN.EDU!HCLADM02 From: HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Cleaning Old Glass Date: Mon, 09 Oct 95 13:56:31 EDT Message-ID: <951009.135811.EDT.HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu> References: <> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk My favorite for cleaning all kinds of crud off glass is - no kidding - rubbing alcohol! So, Glenna, maybe it will help. Anyway, I envy you. (Maybe you know someone who loves jigsaw puzzles!) -- Dorothy Kalahan, Interlibrary Loan (860) 679-2940 FAX (860) 679-4046 UCONN Health Center Library, POB 4003, Farmington CT 06034-4003 HCLADM02@UConnVM.uconn.edu From owner-glass Mon Oct 9 11:20:28 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0t2MnW-0000hOa; Mon, 9 Oct 95 11:19 PDT X-Path: gjr From: gjr@daver.bungi.com (Glenna Rand) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Cleaning Old Glass Date: Mon, 9 Oct 1995 11:19:21 PDT Message-ID: Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk [In the message entitled "Re: Cleaning Old Glass" on Oct 9, 13:56, HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu writes:] > My favorite for cleaning all kinds of crud off glass is - no kidding - > rubbing alcohol! So, Glenna, maybe it will help. Anyway, I envy you. > (Maybe you know someone who loves jigsaw puzzles!) I was just trying to piece everything together on my light box....it's certainly Is like a puzzle. I think I can salvage it though. Some pieces are broken but I think I can just reduce the size and make something out of it. It definately feels like there's alot of history behind it...the fellow who gave it to me used to own some wineries...perhaps it was used in there??..... Glenna -- From owner-glass Mon Oct 9 12:19:57 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0t2Nj3-0000Pha; Mon, 9 Oct 95 12:19 PDT X-Path: utica.ge.com!aitjcm From: aitjcm@utica.ge.com To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Gatewayed mail message Date: Mon, 9 Oct 95 15:18:14 EDT Message-ID: <9510091918.AA23840@xsrv3> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Subscribe "John McCoy" From owner-glass Mon Oct 9 22:05:48 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0t2WqN-0000sba; Mon, 9 Oct 95 22:03 PDT X-Path: ednet1.osl.or.gov!erubin From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Glass Guilds Date: Mon, 9 Oct 1995 19:56:01 -0700 Message-ID: <199510100256.AA27534@ednet1.osl.or.gov> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Hi Stephanie, thanks for Carol info. I know her and the group from a long time ago. About 6 years past, Paul Crist did a guest appearance in Gig Harbor, and I met him in Portland and we drove up together. I am sporadically in touch with the lamp association. WhenI get it sendable, I will send you a look at my faq for lamps. enjoy -- From owner-glass Wed Oct 11 19:11:40 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0t3D60-0000CIa; Wed, 11 Oct 95 19:10 PDT X-Path: camadm.Camosun.BC.CA!COOPERD From: cooperd@camadm.Camosun.BC.CA To: "GLASS@BUNGI.COM" Subject: LAMP DIRECTIONS Date: Wed, 11 Oct 1995 19:06:44 -0800 (PST) Message-ID: <1995Oct11.11644.0> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Hi, Howard, hope you had a great summer, I have been keeping up with reading all of the questions and info from everyone, I now have a question for you, I know you have given these directions before but I have lost my copy of them. Ok, I am making a traditional cone lamp for a wedding present. It has 12 sides and a small skirt on the bottom so it looks quite simple, I have made a gig and cut my 12 sides out, of course no matter how exact you draw the pattern on the glass most of them need grinding to fit in the jig, the next step is to add the skirt in the jig and solder each panel, then you would lay the pieces face side up in a semi-circle and attach masking tape, then carefully raise up into a cone shape and bring the two sides together, then flux and solder. Are these directions the best for making this kind of lamp? what about the spider and cap do I use both? thanks for your help Donna!!! From owner-glass Thu Oct 12 07:32:05 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0t3OeU-0000axa; Thu, 12 Oct 95 07:30 PDT X-Path: vixa.voyager.net!delphigl From: delphigl@voyager.net (Delphi Stained Glass) To: glass@BUNGI.COM Subject: Re: LAMP DIRECTIONS Date: Thu, 12 Oct 1995 10:27:44 -0400 Message-ID: <199510121427.KAA07370@vixa.voyager.net> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Donna, There is a new product out on the market "The Lamp Clamp" which is a system of clamps that will hold all of your panels together instead of taping and gently pulling lampshade up into its shape. All parts of your panel including the skirt and/or crown are clamped together and ready to solder. Stephanie From owner-glass Thu Oct 12 08:48:49 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0t3Pqf-0000Paa; Thu, 12 Oct 95 08:47 PDT X-Path: ednet1.osl.or.gov!erubin From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: LAMP DIRECTIONS Date: Thu, 12 Oct 1995 08:44:38 -0700 Message-ID: <199510121544.AA19893@ednet1.osl.or.gov> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Hello, donna...If the skirt is in another plane, that is it drops off down from the upper section,YOU MUST assemble it in two separate steps FIRST after the panel are ready( upper section), tape them on the up side, pull lamp up to a cone, solder the inside verticle seams, rtaking care not to get solder on the horizontal edge where the skirt goes. Install cap or spider, making sure it is level, You do not need both. measure carefully the lower edge, cut a few test pieces for the lower edge, tape two or three together (use window glass to get size correct), and see how they fit. The seams of tyhe skirt should line up with seams of the verticle panels. 12 panels x a hair = a large gap or a piece that will not line up, so MEASURE and TEST with window glass, or some scrap that is wastable. When you a fit (glass that is) tack a three pieces of the skirt at one time. Tape a strip of three together and put on. Continue until all are in place. If it starts to miss the verticles, by doing only 3, you can still adjust the next one (s). I will be gone until Sun PM so if any problems...later.Enjoy..Howard -- From owner-glass Thu Oct 12 12:20:11 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0t3T8I-0000Xva; Thu, 12 Oct 95 12:17 PDT X-Path: aol.com!MelCford From: MelCford@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Stained glass news Date: Thu, 12 Oct 1995 15:17:20 -0400 Message-ID: <1995Oct12.111720.0> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk To Whom It May Concern: Recently, I inquired of Stained Glass News if there was an area of the "net" which dealt with glass. In their response, they gave me your e-mail address. If you have any info. about mailing lists, message boards, chat rooms or whatever, I would be greatful if you could e-mail me at MelCford@aol.com. Thanks. Sincerely, Melody L. Crawford From owner-glass Thu Oct 12 15:32:59 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0t3WAL-0000iqa; Thu, 12 Oct 95 15:31 PDT X-Path: mail.prodigy.com!MPGP79B From: MPGP79B@prodigy.com (PEGGY M PALM) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Stained glass news Date: Thu, 12 Oct 1995 17:55:07 EDT Message-ID: <013.02814106.MPGP79B@prodigy.com> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk > If you have any info. about mailing lists, message boards, chat rooms or > whatever, Melody, if you are on AOL, they have a stained glass bb in the crafts section. It isn't the easiest to find, and I no longer subscribe to AOL, so this is my best shot at remembering the routine. I believe you have to start with something called The Connection or the People Connection. Once in that area, there are little icons for hobbies and interests. The one which includes stained glass is the one that also includes sewing. If you click on that one, a list will appear, which should include stained glass. Within that section are folders for different topics, such as lamps, supplies, hot glass, etc. Another possibility is rec.crafts.glass newsgroup on the internet. AOL should be able to provide access. Get to the Internet section, click on "newgroups". Somewhere in there is a way of searching for a specific group. Type in "rec.crafts.glass" and see if they can find it for you. Finally, if you get into the WWW, try the Web Crawler to search for "glass". Most sites are either "brag pages" which show photos of projects, or else sales sites for supplies or pieces of glass art. If you can't find what you want, write back. I'll be glad to share some URLs I've found. Good luck! Peggy From owner-glass Fri Oct 13 07:42:55 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0t3lH2-0000hwa; Fri, 13 Oct 95 07:39 PDT X-Path: gjr From: gjr@daver.bungi.com (Glenna Rand) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Lead Came Date: Fri, 13 Oct 1995 07:39:33 PDT Message-ID: Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Hi Everyone, Just wondering about working with lead came...since I have only used lead on the outside of a small piece before. When I put it on the outside (frame) I stretched the came till stiff. Do I still do the same for the interior? I recently got a lead came panel that was in pieces that I've taken apart to redo (some was broken, etc.) So far I have only worked mostly with copperfoil. Any hints or other suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks Glenna -- From owner-glass Fri Oct 13 08:24:59 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0t3lxO-00004ya; Fri, 13 Oct 95 08:23 PDT X-Path: crosfield.co.uk!jc From: jc@crosfield.co.uk (Jerry Cullingford) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Lead Came Date: Fri, 13 Oct 1995 15:26:10 +0000 (GMT) Message-ID: <9510131526.AA28580@crosfield.co.uk> References: <> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk > > Hi Everyone, > > Just wondering about working with lead came...since I have only used > lead on the outside of a small piece before. When I put it on the > outside (frame) I stretched the came till stiff. Do I still > do the same for the interior? Yes - the other thing that stretching the came does is (a) straighten it out nicely and (b) makes it go a bit further :-). It probably makes it a bit easier to cut, too :-). > I recently got a lead came panel that was in pieces that I've > taken apart to redo (some was broken, etc.) > So far I have only worked mostly with copperfoil. Any hints or > other suggestions are greatly appreciated. Usual standard tips (from a relative newbie - I've done one panel in lead came to go in an over-door window light, so these are mainly from books/videos rather than personal experience). (1) remember to allow for the width of the came center when cutting glass - a small section of came can be handy to check this. (2) for panels, remember to allow for the came round the outside as well! (3) Using H section for the outside allows you to fold the edges down to reduce the size if the finished panel comes out a bit oversize. (Which was very handy for mine!) (4) remember that large panels may need reinforcing (5) keep the knife sharp :-). (6) White spirit can be used to thin the cement (7) The cement/whiting stages are messy, so doing them outside can be a smart move (but probably not near fishponds). (8) The cementing also helps to strengthen the piece, even if it's for use inside where waterproofing doesn't matter. (9) It helps if you use a reasonably sturdy jig - pushing glass into the came can cause problems with the pushpin-section variety if you're not careful (my first trail, a small (roughly 4x6 inch) diamond lattice, suffered from this; the main panel (roughly 36 x 9 inch) had no problems, probably due to larger pieces and more securing pins :-) ). (10) Lead is toxic. Avoid eating while working, and remember that scrubbing the finished panel with whiting may create lead particles - be sensible, take care, and wash your hands afterwards. -- _|_ / | Jerry Cullingford jc@crosfield.co.uk (Work) \_|_ jc@selune.demon.co.uk (Home) \__/ Hemel Hempstead, UK jerry@shell.portal.com (alternate) From owner-glass Fri Oct 13 08:25:02 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0t3lxS-0000OLa; Fri, 13 Oct 95 08:23 PDT X-Path: galen.med.virginia.edu!lbl From: "Laurel B. Hall" To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Lead Came Date: Fri, 13 Oct 1995 11:23:20 -0400 (EDT) Message-ID: <199510131523.LAA18140@galen.med.Virginia.EDU> References: <> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Hi, Glenna. I'm far from an expert, but yes, you do always need to stretch the lead came, no matter where it will be used in the piece. Laurie in Virginia, where it is beautiful today! According to Glenna Rand: > > Hi Everyone, > > Just wondering about working with lead came...since I have only used > lead on the outside of a small piece before. When I put it on the > outside (frame) I stretched the came till stiff. Do I still > do the same for the interior? > I recently got a lead came panel that was in pieces that I've > taken apart to redo (some was broken, etc.) > So far I have only worked mostly with copperfoil. Any hints or > other suggestions are greatly appreciated. > > Thanks > > Glenna > > -- > From owner-glass Fri Oct 13 08:58:04 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0t3mTZ-0000Era; Fri, 13 Oct 95 08:56 PDT X-Path: snowfall.colorado.edu!marilyn From: Marilyn Kaminski To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Glass inventories Date: Fri, 13 Oct 95 9:55:29 MDT Message-ID: Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk A question for the pros in the list ... I've just gone from glass hobbyist to glass businessperson, and am wondering how best to inventory and value the glass that I've already got. What's the best way to measure? Square footage or weight? (And if weight, what kind of scale to use?) What do you do about all the small stuff (still usable, not quite scrap, but hard to measure)? What are the gotchas that are lying in wait for me? All advice greatly appreciated! - Marilyn -- ___________________________________________________________ /\ Marilyn Kaminski /\ /\/ \ ECS System Engineering Liaison /\ / \/\/ \ @ /\ National Snow and Ice Data Center / \/ / \ \|/ \ phone: (303)-492-1477 / @ \ / @ \ \ @\ fax: (303)-492-2468 \|/ / \|/ \ \|/ email: marilyn@snowfall.colorado.edu From owner-glass Fri Oct 13 09:36:04 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0t3n4e-0000b7a; Fri, 13 Oct 95 09:35 PDT X-Path: vixa.voyager.net!delphigl From: delphigl@voyager.net (Delphi Stained Glass) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Lead Came Date: Fri, 13 Oct 1995 12:32:22 -0400 Message-ID: <199510131632.MAA02364@vixa.voyager.net> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Hi Glenna, > >Just wondering about working with lead came...since I have only used >lead on the outside of a small piece before. When I put it on the >outside (frame) I stretched the came till stiff. Do I still >do the same for the interior? Stretching all the lead came you use in a lead panel is essential! It not only straightens the lead, it strengthens it. I also agree with using H-channel lead on the outside of the piece. If folding the edges down doesn't work well when fitting your panel into an opening, you can use a utility knife to trim the channel. Safety is always important to keep in mind. You shouldn't eat, drink, or smoke when you are working with lead. Lead can also be absorbed into the body through cuts and abrasions, so keep lots of bandaids handy. When you are cementing your piece, remember to wear a respirator over your nose and mouth so you don't breath in the whiting or floating lead particles. The same goes for wearing eye protection. I do remember a tip that I read in the Stained Glass News last year that pertains to cementing. If your piece is small enough, when you are ready to use whiting, slide your piece into a large clear bag and just use one hand (inside of the bag) to spread it around. This will help contain the mess and make it easier to clean up. It can be a really messy job! Hope this is helpful. Stephanie From owner-glass Fri Oct 13 10:04:30 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0t3nW6-0000cka; Fri, 13 Oct 95 10:03 PDT X-Path: vixa.voyager.net!delphigl From: delphigl@voyager.net (Delphi Stained Glass) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Glass inventories Date: Fri, 13 Oct 1995 13:00:51 -0400 Message-ID: <199510131700.NAA10844@vixa.voyager.net> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Hi Marilyn, >I've just gone from glass hobbyist to glass businessperson, >and am wondering how best to inventory and value the glass >that I've already got. What's the best way to measure? Square >footage or weight? (And if weight, what kind of scale to use?) >What do you do about all the small stuff (still usable, not >quite scrap, but hard to measure)? What are the gotchas that >are lying in wait for me? Here at Delphi Stained Glass, we inventory glass both by square foot and by pounds. It just depends on how the manufacturer sells it. Most glasses are measured by the square foot with the exception of Bullseye and Chicago Art Glass which both go by weight. Both Bullseye and Chicago can vary from .9 - 1.2 pounds per square foot. When it comes to glasses containing gold-pink, this can mean a major difference in price! When we are weighing, we use an electronic scale. Pricing the glass can be more difficult. To make a profit you will first have to determine your cost for the glass including shipping and handling along with the costs to operate your business and add a little so you can make a profit. This factor varies from business to business, so I would suggest that you pick up a copy of "This Business of Glass" by Loretta Radeschi. It's full of lots of valuable information. For the small pieces (under half a square foot), we consider this scrap and have set up a "scrap bin" that our store customers can walk in and purchase from. We sell this by the pound. Most glasses (except Bullseye and Chicago Art Glass), weigh approx 1.6 pounds per square foot. If I can be of further assistance, let me know :) Stephanie From owner-glass Mon Oct 16 13:29:13 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0t4w75-0000Lta; Mon, 16 Oct 95 13:26 PDT X-Path: camadm.Camosun.BC.CA!COOPERD From: cooperd@camadm.Camosun.BC.CA To: "GLASS@BUNGI.COM" Subject: LAMP DIRECTIONS Date: Mon, 16 Oct 1995 13:25:20 -0800 (PST) Message-ID: <1995Oct16.52520.0> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Thanks for your help Howard, I'll let you know how it turns out. Donna From owner-glass Mon Oct 16 14:11:06 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0t4wmo-0000WCa; Mon, 16 Oct 95 14:09 PDT X-Path: camadm.Camosun.BC.CA!COOPERD From: cooperd@camadm.Camosun.BC.CA To: "GLASS@BUNGI.COM" Subject: LAMP CLAMP Date: Mon, 16 Oct 1995 13:40:03 -0800 (PST) Message-ID: <1995Oct16.5403.0> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk The LAMP CLAMP sounds like a very interesting tool for lamp making, I've never heard of it, I will ask when I go to my glass shop here in town. Can you tell me the price for this contraption. Thanks Donna!!! From owner-glass Tue Oct 17 12:51:58 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0t5I20-00010ma; Tue, 17 Oct 95 12:50 PDT X-Path: vixa.voyager.net!delphigl From: delphigl@voyager.net (Delphi Stained Glass) To: glass@BUNGI.COM Subject: Re: LAMP CLAMP Date: Tue, 17 Oct 1995 15:47:51 -0400 Message-ID: <199510171947.PAA14553@vixa.voyager.net> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Hi, >The LAMP CLAMP sounds like a very interesting tool for lamp making, I've >never heard of it, I will ask when I go to my glass shop here in town. >Can you tell me the price for this contraption. Thanks Donna!!! The Lamp Clamp comes with 16 alighment guides, 32 clips, allen wrench, "The Angler" index of angle settings for 408 complete lamps shades and instructions. The price for is is $51.35. From owner-glass Sat Oct 21 16:39:39 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0t6nUg-0000fYa; Sat, 21 Oct 95 16:38 PDT X-Path: mail.prodigy.com!MPGP79B From: MPGP79B@prodigy.com (PEGGY M PALM) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Soldering irons Date: Sat, 21 Oct 1995 19:30:43 EDT Message-ID: <013.03329162.MPGP79B@prodigy.com> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Hi everyone It's windy and rainy and my lamp glass is on back-order, so I've been amusing myself with making a suncatcher (first one I've tried!). You would think that this wouldn't be too hard, but I find that my soldering iron is giving me fits. I have 2 of them: the econo student special from my basics class, and an Inland Insta-heat. The economy model has developed any un-nerving habit of loosening its tip so it slides forward during soldering. The little screw in the side clearly isn't working well anymore. The Insta-heat is supposed to hold a steady temperature of 850* but I do have it on a rheostat. I was trying out some Silvergleem solder with this suncatcher and had a terrible time getting the stuff to flow. It did much better when I used the old econo iron, so I suspect the other iron may be cooling too much. At any rate, I believe I see a new soldering iron in my immediate future. It seems as though Weller and Ungar are the major contenders. What do you all use, and why do you like it? Is there some advantage of one brand over another? I do virtually only copperfoil and I don't want to regret my next purchase, if possible. :-) Thanks for any words of wisdom... Peggy From owner-glass Sat Oct 21 18:08:09 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0t6osw-0000ola; Sat, 21 Oct 95 18:07 PDT X-Path: ednet1.osl.or.gov!erubin From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Soldering irons Date: Sat, 21 Oct 1995 17:16:28 -0700 Message-ID: <199510220016.AA10165@ednet1.osl.or.gov> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Howard here IMHO I only use and sell Ungar 1,000 degree irons. The kit is #1140 and you MUST use a rheostat to be able to turn the iron down when idling. The extra heat allows you to melt solder rapidly, and the rheostat allows you to turn up the heat as you get better and faster. Peggy, another thought is what flux are you and have you been using? As an aside, I am making the 28" swirl dragon fly from Odyssey. Lots of challenges to get the colors phased and the swirls to track and flow cleanly. Many jewels (88) and mixed colors of them to tie it all together or to confuse the eye so as not to see transitions of colors. ANGRY red d/fs. Back to the light table, as the shade is being assembled there before transfering to the form...many hours to go. enjoy -- From owner-glass Sun Oct 22 16:08:15 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0t79TM-0000kpa; Sun, 22 Oct 95 16:06 PDT X-Path: nbnet.nb.ca!chaseway From: wayne chase To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Soldering irons Summary: NB*net - New Brunswick's Regional Network 1-800-561-4459 Date: Sun, 22 Oct 1995 20:04:31 AST Message-ID: <9522200431.23DA> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk On Sat, 21 Oct 1995 17:16:28 -0700, erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov writes: >As an aside, I am making the 28" swirl dragon fly from Odyssey. >Lots of challenges to get the colors phased and the swirls to >track and flow cleanly. Many jewels (88) and mixed colors of them >to tie it all together or to confuse the eye so as not to see >transitions of colors. ANGRY red d/fs. >Back to the light table, as the shade is being assembled there before >transfering to the form...many hours to go. Hi Howard, Wayne here.....Just doing a little lurking, and after a leisurely fall season,I am gettin back into the swing of things. The above piece sounds absolutely amazing. I am sending you and Elaine out a snail mail letter this week. Will be interested in seeing how long a letter takes to go to the west coast of the U.S.A. I bet it is faster than one going to the west coast of Canada. Just for the heck of it would you mind checking the postmark date when you get it and let me know how long it takes? Will not ramble on with mindless babble at this time, ;-/ as I will update summer and fall activities in letter. Hi to Elaine, and talk to you soon. (Also Hi from Joan) :-) Regards, Wayne. From owner-glass Sun Oct 22 22:11:31 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0t7FA5-0000pAa; Sun, 22 Oct 95 22:11 PDT X-Path: ednet1.osl.or.gov!erubin From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Soldering irons Date: Sun, 22 Oct 1995 22:08:31 -0700 Message-ID: <199510230508.AA15329@ednet1.osl.or.gov> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Hello to you both, (Wayne and Joan) I will check the post mark and let you know when I get the letter. We had a good summer, also a mini vaction to high desert of Oregon for a long weekend. Both Elaine and I celebrated birthdays this month and treated ourselves well (why not). My dragon fly is all cut but the grid rows, and later tonight, may start the upper part...first time in a long time I am enthused, either because of the challenge or because 5 major pieces have sold since August, and need replacing. Short days of light coming and time to get that project going.... no more procrastination...just do it. If Terry and Matt are listening...how are you both doing... Enjoy...it is only glass...Howard -- From owner-glass Tue Oct 31 09:23:47 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0tAKNj-00004ba; Tue, 31 Oct 95 09:21 PST X-Path: ednet1.osl.or.gov!erubin From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: change of address Date: Tue, 31 Oct 1995 09:19:11 -0800 Message-ID: <199510311719.AA14561@ednet1.osl.or.gov> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk To all the "list"eners...as of NOW my new address will be......... weaver51@teleport.com The old ednet address will be in use also until November 30. Look for a web page and professional graphics soon* *soon is a relative term! My son and neighbor who has been into computers since the abacus, will do all the set up and scanning. Both of them have been working on rural internet services. To the best of my knowledge, there are 4 providers of services in a very sparsely populated area. None of the carriers are major communication companies. Soon the government (in my opinion) will try to regulate the competition so as to save us from monoplies, and then the costs will go up and the quality of service go down. So much for my diatribe this morning, took a phone call at 6:45 AM, and have not gotten over it, this helps...soon tobe my normal cynical self. TO Peggy, negotiable instrument arrived...will put in into the system in a few days Enjoy, and this is what happens in the dark and early AM. -- Please note our new address is weaver51@teleport.com Our Ednet account will be closed as of December 1, 1995.