From owner-glass Mon May  1 07:06:34 1995
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From:         Dorothy Kalahan <HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu>
To:           glass@bungi.com
Subject:      field trip
Date:         Mon, 01 May 95 09:52:13 EDT
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Last summer, on a "field trip" my husband and I went to Corning, NY
to visit the museum at the Corning Glass Works.  Thw town is, of
course, glass heaven.  We did not have nearly enough time on our
flying weekend trip.  The museum is fascinating.  Then go through
the shops downtown.
Are there other glass vacation destinations you all know about?
Dorothy  hcladm02@uconnvm.uconn.edu

From owner-glass Mon May  1 11:16:14 1995
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From: cooperd@Camosun.BC.CA
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Subject: glass
Date: Mon, 01 May 1995 11:13:23 -0800 (PST)
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Laura, Yes I am merely a hobbist, I don't feel my work is refined enough
to sell at this stage.  I love doing stain glass work, but my time is very
limited, with working , trying to keep in shape, gardening, making 
lampshades, and being a wife and mother leaves little time for the passion
I have for stain glass work, anyway I have been working on a window for a 
door in my house and it's getting to the stage that I just want to finish
it, and get on to something else, well I will soon have the time since I
have a two month layoff, so I can't complain anyway enjoy!!   Donna!!!





































From owner-glass Mon May  1 13:33:40 1995
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From: Kristina Santilla <santilla@umd5.umd.edu>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: field trip
Date: Mon, 1 May 1995 16:32:48 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <1995May1.123248.0>
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On Mon, 1 May 1995, Dorothy Kalahan wrote:

> Are there other glass vacation destinations you all know about?
> Dorothy  hcladm02@uconnvm.uconn.edu
> 

Dorothy,
 The New Morse Museum in Winter Park Florida should be open by now, Last 
I heard it would be March of '95. It has in its collection a massive 
9 foot Tiffany electrolier (chandelier), which hasn't been displayed since 
1957, and a series of Tiffany french doors 10' high by 11' wide altogether. 
The collection rotates, so out of 4000 pieces, 70 of which are stained glass 
windows (40 by Tiffany), only a portion will be shown at any time. 
 
 This is on my "to do" list for this summer.

 (I think this is close to DisneyWorld. It's on the corner of Park Ave. 
and Canton Ave. in Winter Park.) 	

From owner-glass Mon May  1 17:09:21 1995
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From: Kristina Santilla <santilla@umd5.umd.edu>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: glass shows, etc.
Date: Mon, 1 May 1995 16:59:36 -0400 (EDT)
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I have seen somewhere that there is some kind of stained glass show (yearly?)
in Las Vegas.

Does anyone know anything about this, and is it just for commercial resalers?
Are there others?

What about glass competitions or juried shows that are strictly glass?

Are there any decent magazines for the stained glass artist? I don't mean 
pattern magazines. I pick up the free Stained Glass News (or whatever 
it's called) monthly at the closest supplier, but would like to read 
something of more substance.

I know that there is a Stained Glass Association. Does anyone belong? If 
so, is it worth belonging to?

I am obviosly new to this craft and extremely uninformed!

Thanks in advance.

Krisi Santilla
Santilla@umd5.umd.edu


From owner-glass Mon May  1 18:16:06 1995
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From: MPGP79B@prodigy.com (PEGGY M PALM)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: colors in Tiffanies
Date: Mon, 01 May 1995 21:02:17 EDT
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-- [ From: Peggy Palm * EMC.Ver #2.10P ] --

Thanks to those who responded to my questions about resource books.  I
actually already have the postcards of the lamps, but they're too small
to be of much value in looking at color detail.  My immediate interest
was in finding out which of the books gave the most information both in
description and color plates, since I haven't found a way of simply
looking at them without ordering them.  I didn't want to end up with a
copy of Tiffany's original price list with black and white line
drawings of lamp bases, which is what I found in a bookstore one day. 
So I thank you for your kind offers and advice. I  will remember them
as soon as I'm ready to take the plunge!   Peggy

Howard, your email arrived, but I've run out of spare minutes!  Will
reply ASAP - thanks!  :-)


From owner-glass Mon May  1 19:08:35 1995
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From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: colors in Tiffanies
Date: Mon, 1 May 1995 19:08:28 -0700
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Hi Peggy, this is Howard...If the line drawing book is still
around and convenient to look at, I would like a little info...
old, prices, etc. (Tiffany) and asking price for the book.
You did get my offer for the Nuestadt book?
Enjoy

From owner-glass Tue May  2 05:55:10 1995
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From:         Dorothy <HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu>
To:           glass@bungi.com
Subject:      more field trips
Date:         Tue, 02 May 95 08:49:24 EDT
Message-ID:   <950502.085347.EDT.HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu>
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Since I asked about glass vacations, I suppose I ought to tell you
what's available right here in Connecticut, for anyone coming into
the area....
Right now, and for the next few months (don't have the dates) the Mark
Twain House in Hartford is featuring Tiffany works.
The art museum on the main campus of the University of Connecticut at
Storrs has a LARGE Tiffany collection.  What is on exhibit may vary, but
it is gorgeous.
Dorothy  (who is packing up for her first craft show of the spring , which
means I have to take all the new stuff out of MY windows which now look
naked!)

From owner-glass Tue May  2 14:18:09 1995
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From: MPGP79B@prodigy.com (PEGGY M PALM)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: glass shows, etc.
Date: Tue, 02 May 1995 16:11:39 EDT
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-- [ From: Peggy Palm * EMC.Ver #2.10P ] --

Hi Kristina -
Well, you asked for it!  Below, a list of magazines and association
addresses. 
Remember that prices are subject to change, and may not be current.

Stained Glass Quarterly
6 SW 2nd St, Suite #7
Lee's Summit, MO 64063
$24.00 per year $7.00 single issue
800-888-7422

Glass Artist (formerly Professional SG Mag) 
28 South State St.
Newtown, PA 18940 
$25.00 per year  $6.00 single / bi-monthly 
Editor: Joe Porcelli (JoeP696993@AOL.COM) 
1-800-786-8720

Glass Patterns Quarterly   502-222-563
8300 Hidden Valley Rd
PO Box 131  
Westport, KY 40077
$18.00 per year $4.00 per single copy.

Stained Glass Association of America
PO Box 22642
Kansas City, MO 64113
800-888-7422

Association of Stained Glass Lamp Artists, North East
Chapter annual fees $15.00 per year 
open to all stained glass workers, sponsers shows & events, newsletter
Write to: 
ASGLA, Northeast, Inc.
PO Box 1235
Burlington, CT 06013
for  1995 calendar  featuring lamps, write to:
ASGLA
070 Cromwell Drive NW
Gig Harbor, WA 98335

Glass Shows:  (I know there is one in Portland, Oregon and one in
Seattle, Wash., both in June, but have no details.  Maybe Howard knows?
Might be too late to sign up by now. The show in Las Vegas is annual,
and took place in March.   As I understand it, some shows have specific
days which are open to the public, others are less restrictive. The
sponsors will no doubt give all the necessary details on request. Shows
are often advertised in the various glass magazines also.)

1.  AGSA Glass Show 1996                                 
Exhibit Dates: July 19, 20, 21, 1996                        
Nashville Convention Center                                 
Nashville, Tennessee                                        

2.  Glass Craft Festival '95                                    
Holiday Inn North,                                          
Newark, NJ Nov 8-12, 95                                     
     AND
3.  Glass Craft Festival '96                                
Ramada Resort                                               
2900 Parkway Blvd                                           
Kissimmee, FL   Feb 8-11 '96.                               

For details of 2 and 3,  contact Worldwide Glasscrafting               
696 Palisade Ave                                            
Teaneck, NJ 07666                                           
Tel 201-836-8940  Fax: 201-768-7057                         

As you can probably guess by now,  I'm an information junkie!  I
frequently have more information than actual experience, so I'll leave
you to investigate any leads that seem promising.  Maybe you'll let us
know how it works out?     Peggy




From owner-glass Tue May  2 18:07:42 1995
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From: "Robert M. Crane" <rcrane@calvin.stemnet.nf.ca>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: field trip
Date: Tue, 2 May 1995 22:36:30 -0230 (NDT)
Message-ID: <1995May2.194830.0>
References: <<950501.095524.EDT.HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu>>
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I live in Eastern Canada and was wondering if anybody out there knew of 
any interesting workshops taking place during the months of July and 
August in the Eastern U.S. or Canada. (Not really heavy stuff, but I have 
been working with glass for a year or two and not" really" green) Lamp 
making would be nice but I am open to almost any learning 
experience.Thanks in anticipation of your reply, best of luck
  

From owner-glass Wed May  3 18:56:10 1995
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From: "Robert M. Crane" <rcrane@calvin.stemnet.nf.ca>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: field trip
Date: Wed, 3 May 1995 23:24:29 -0230 (NDT)
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If there is somebody out there who has knowledge of workshops in stained 
glass in Eastern Canada or the North Eastern States during the months of 
July or August, I would appreciate knowing of them. Since I have worked a 
little in glass, I am not really interested in 'real' basic work but on 
the other hand I am not a 'real pro' either. If you know of one in your 
area, please let me know. Thanks

From owner-glass Thu May  4 13:38:05 1995
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From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: trsde show
Date: Thu, 4 May 1995 13:37:36 -0700
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Trade Show
To the list at large...This is Howard
The trade show is scheduled for Seattle from June 21 to 25. 
It is open to businesses related to the Stained Glass Trade, and
3 pieces of I D will be required. There is a $25.00 fee to get in
unless you are a member of ASGA, the minimum level of membership
is $25.00. Although I can not give you specifics at this time, there
is a workshop in Portland, (I think) on hot glass, by Gil Reynolds.
CHECK with your full servive supplier(s) for the accurate and
complete details for the above mentioned trade show. If any of you
are planning a Westerly visit, Portland has 2 major glass manufacturers,
Bullseye and Uroborus, call for visitations. The largest machine maker
of glass is Spectrum, just outside of Seattle and also should be
visistable. Pilchuk is also in the area, but i have no data to pass
on to you.
Hope all of you are well, and not doing too much "yard work", as it
interferes with glass work.
Enjoy

From owner-glass Mon May  8 22:43:35 1995
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From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: back to glass
Date: Mon, 8 May 1995 22:41:59 -0700
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This is Howard...after spending the weekend doing yard chores(fun)
on to more serious stuff. It has been quiet on the glass list, I
miss answering questions and swapping stories. Two more weeks of
teaching classes for me and most students are into their second or
third project. I will be away from mid July to mid August, with the
dates not quite confirmed yet. We will be going to NYC, DCLA,
and the middle east, not in the order listed. My wife makes all the
plans...all I have to do is show up at the right time and tag along.
Well, back to the 18" peony which is waiting to be born. 
Enjoy

From owner-glass Tue May  9 04:50:54 1995
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From: wayne chase <chaseway@nbnet.nb.ca>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: back to glass
Summary: NB*net - New Brunswick's Regional Network 1-800-561-4459
Date: Tue, 09 May 1995 08:46:41 AST
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On Mon, 8 May 1995 22:41:59 -0700,  erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov writes:
>
>
>
>This is Howard...after spending the weekend doing yard chores(fun)
>on to more serious stuff. It has been quiet on the glass list, I
>miss answering questions and swapping stories. Two more weeks of
>teaching classes for me and most students are into their second or
>third project. I will be away from mid July to mid August, with the
>dates not quite confirmed yet. We will be going to NYC, DCLA,
>and the middle east, not in the order listed. My wife makes all the
>plans...all I have to do is show up at the right time and tag along.
>Well, back to the 18" peony which is waiting to be born. 
>Enjoy
>
 Hi Howard,

     Like you I have been doing the" rake dance", and the "paint brush swing",
and consequently have been unable to keep up with the list.  However this week
end I plan on getting partially back to it, and continuing where I left off a
couple of weeks back.  Just as the tulips were blooming, and the grass was
greening up a bit (almost ready for mowing) we were blessed with 35 cm's of
snow.  Yuk!!!!! today should be warmer and get rid of it though.  It sounds
like you have a great month of travel planed this summer.  Any need for a
personal photographer to record the travels of Mr. & Mrs. Howard???? (Ha Ha).

     See ya.

     Wayne.

From owner-glass Tue May  9 05:40:18 1995
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From: cutler@Wittenberg.EDU
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: a question about bases and other stuff
Date: Tue, 09 May 1995 08:39:35 EDT
Message-ID: <1995May9.123935.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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Howard, and others too: is there a "formula" or at least some good
"rules of thumb"  for figuring the height of a lamp base 
for a particular shade diameter and height?
Or is it a matter of trial and error?

I just finished a 7"dia.x 5"high globe (worden system G-7) 
and I'm trying to decide what size base to get for it.  
Next project is two bedroom reading lamps, probably 13" dia,
probably pyramid, but possibly more complicated.
Oh, yes and yardwork too, lots of marigolds to plant, and a boat to re-paint
and lots of dirt to move here and there. Actually, I love it all.
I find the time away from the workbench is time spent, sometimes quite
unconsciously, thinkiing about projects.  When time comes to sit down and do
som designs there are times when they just sort of materialize.  Usually after
"interruptions" like yard chores.  So For me anyway taking time
away from the bench is good for creative juices.
Hope you enjoy your trip Howard.  Sounds like quite an undertaking.
Thanks to all for the encouragement.  This is a friendly list; much
appreicated in these times of "incivility" :)

From owner-glass Tue May  9 05:42:13 1995
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From:         Dorothy <HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu>
To:           glass@bungi.com
Subject:      Re: back to glass
Date:         Tue, 09 May 95 08:34:36 EDT
Message-ID:   <950509.084107.EDT.HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu>
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Well, glass is my third job...full time work in a library, part time
insturctor at a community college.  It's almost finals time and all I
want to do is sleep.  It's been a typical semester.  My students have
been dealing with childbirth, pregnancy, divorce, various illnesses of
student and/or child, Special Olympics....etc.  And I teach math.  You
gotta be a juggler to help these people through.  And I have to make:
2 crosses, 2 roses, 2 butterflies, and do some woodwork....  I'm sure
the list will get longer, but I am tired right now...
Dorothy

From owner-glass Tue May  9 17:50:57 1995
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From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: testing
Date: Tue, 9 May 1995 17:50:47 -0700
Message-ID: <199505100050.AA18330@ednet1.osl.or.gov>
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This is Howard...according to my list server, no mail is coming in
or going out. They say this is a problem, and I do agree!

From owner-glass Tue May  9 18:49:22 1995
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From: mrum@idirect.com (mike & carol)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: testing
Date: Tue, 9 May 1995 22:11:05 -0400
Message-ID: <199505100211.WAA25905@lucid.idirect.com>
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>
>
>This is Howard...according to my list server, no mail is coming in
>or going out. They say this is a problem, and I do agree!
>
Hi Howard, this is Carol
Read you loud and clear.


From owner-glass Wed May 10 03:19:19 1995
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From: wayne chase <chaseway@nbnet.nb.ca>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: testing
Summary: NB*net - New Brunswick's Regional Network 1-800-561-4459
Date: Wed, 10 May 1995 07:14:16 AST
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On Tue, 9 May 1995 17:50:47 -0700,  erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov writes:
>
>
>
>This is Howard...according to my list server, no mail is coming in
>or going out. They say this is a problem, and I do agree!
>
 Hi Howard, Just following up on your test as I sent a note this morning to
list.  Hope your server is on again.

  Regards, Wayne


From owner-glass Wed May 10 05:59:28 1995
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To: rglass-1
X-Path: sysm.acs.virginia.edu!UD59
From: LAUREL HALL <UD59@sysm.acs.virginia.edu>
Subject: Gatewayed mail message
Date: Wed May 10 05:58:55 1995
Message-ID: <1995May11.33055.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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SENDER OF MESSAGE:
On Tue, 9 May 1995 17:50:47 -0700,  erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov writes:
>
>
>
>This is Howard...according to my list server, no mail is coming in
>or going out. They say this is a problem, and I do agree!
>
 Hi Howard, Just following up on your test as I sent a note this morning to
list.  Hope your server is on again.

  Regards, Wayne


*** Comments from UD59 - HALL, LAUREL; 05/10/95 08:47:
I got ya too.


LAUREL HALL
UD59@sysm.acs.Virginia.EDU

From owner-glass Wed May 10 08:47:30 1995
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From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: idle hands
Date: Wed, 10 May 1995 08:47:24 -0700
Message-ID: <199505101547.AA06835@ednet1.osl.or.gov>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
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this is Howard...got up too early, 7:30a.m., and found that 48
messages were waiting on the list. Culled most of them, evidently
the list serve is on again. 
To the point, I am computer numb, so my early morning advice carefully
thought out from your responses, which generally indicate that most of
you have been playing (person) mother nature is: GREEN SIDE UP when
you plant. This is an example of what happens when I arise too early!
Enjoy
P. S. I will answer some questions later when it is later.

From owner-glass Wed May 10 12:20:07 1995
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From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: a question about bases and other stuff
Date: Wed, 10 May 1995 12:20:17 -0700
Message-ID: <199505101920.AA15056@ednet1.osl.or.gov>
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Ts Howard... a little later, alittle more cognizant.
To Bob, A very general rule of guesswork IMHO is a base can be about 
the height of the diameter of the shade, with about 25% leeway either
saller or larger. The finial resting height of the shade can be adjusted
in 1/2" increments by playing with the harp heights. A 6' harp will not
clear a A19 household without taking the harp off to put in the bulb.
Look for and Use a fan lamp bulb A15. Shade risers are also available
to raise the shade on the harp. A 6 inch or so base will work on the
G7 Worden you made. Depending which base you choose, the bulb base
may vary and there are adapters to make them candleabra base compatible.
There is a standard measurement of bulbs (industry) and I anyone wants
I can explain and quote numbers. I always use clear bulbs!
The keys are not always in the right places when I type, hence the "Typos"
I have started to aerobic-arthritis low impact swim on Mon, Wed., Fri.,
and will be leaving soon...so It is only glass.
enjoy

From owner-glass Wed May 10 16:52:21 1995
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From: mrum@idirect.com (mike & carol)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: lamp bases etc
Date: Wed, 10 May 1995 20:14:15 -0400
Message-ID: <199505110014.UAA00246@lucid.idirect.com>
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Hi Bob, this is Carol.

Finally found the issues of Professional Stained Glass that had some good
stuff on lamps and bases.
June 1991 issue, Porcelli writes that the diameter of the base should be no
more than 2/3rd of the shade's diameter and no less than one third.  Lamps
with bases having a larger diameter will look bottom heavy; those with a
smaller diameter will look top heavy and will not provide suitable support.
At least that's the gist of the article, taken from Porcelli's book "The
Lampmaking Handbook".

July 1990 issue, article by John Emery, partner in Preston Studios in FL
"Creating new designs in the Tiffany tradition".  Your subject dictates the
style of base.  One would not mount an iris shade on a tree base - irises do
not grow on trees.  But roses, or dogwood, or magnolias all do belong on
trees and look appropriate on tree bases.  Mounting the shade on the correct
base can make or break the 'look' of the finished product, but you needn't
be overly tied to convention.   . . .  What is important is proportion and
appropriateness - does the work really look right on that base?

I knew that one day I would refer to these old issues again.  Good luck on
your new project!!



From owner-glass Wed May 10 19:02:48 1995
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From: NAPPERzzzz@aol.com
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Subject: Subscribe
Date: Wed, 10 May 1995 22:02:14 -0400
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Subscribe Sherry Marie

From owner-glass Wed May 10 20:08:18 1995
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From: alane@ix.netcom.com (Alan E )
To: glass@bungi.com
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Date: Wed, 10 May 1995 18:34:39 -0700
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unsubscribe


Please remove me from this mailing list.


    Thanks

From owner-glass Thu May 11 09:19:43 1995
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From: at994@yfn.ysu.edu (Karen Margala)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: none
Date: Thu, 11 May 1995 12:21:04 -0400
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Subscribe Karen Margala

From owner-glass Thu May 11 12:39:42 1995
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From: cooperd@Camosun.BC.CA
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: foiling
Date: Thu, 11 May 1995 10:54:07 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1995May11.2547.0>
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Hi, Howard I'm finally getting my act together again, slowly but surely	
I'm beginning to find my tools and get my workshop going again, never did	
find my grozzers, anyway I'm not sure if you can answer my question since	
since you said you didn't do small items, I try to have one big project 
and a small one going at the same time, so if you can answer great if not
maybe someone else out there can help, ok here goes, how in the world do
you get foil to go on straight and look professional, I have such a problem
with it, I even bought one of those foilers which is useless, any hints or
is it just practice.   By the way have a nice trip! you very lucky 
person!         Donna!!!!                                   

From owner-glass Thu May 11 13:20:29 1995
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From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: back to glass
Date: Thu, 11 May 1995 13:20:34 -0700
Message-ID: <199505112020.AA21514@ednet1.osl.or.gov>
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This is Howard... thanks to all for replying to the test.
To Wayne... if only I could take along a 'personal' photographer. 
>From our correspondence it seems that you have "some" qualifications.
I will muddle along with my Canon AE1s. AS always, I await( with bated
breath)whatever that means for your questions and observations.
It si only glass
Enjoy

From owner-glass Thu May 11 17:51:25 1995
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From: mrum@idirect.com (mike & carol)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: foiling
Date: Thu, 11 May 1995 20:53:26 -0400
Message-ID: <199505120053.UAA25123@lucid.idirect.com>
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>Hi, Howard I'm finally getting my act together again, slowly but surely	
>I'm beginning to find my tools and get my workshop going again, never did	
>find my grozzers, anyway I'm not sure if you can answer my question since	
>since you said you didn't do small items, I try to have one big project 
>and a small one going at the same time, so if you can answer great if not
>maybe someone else out there can help, ok here goes, how in the world do
>you get foil to go on straight and look professional, I have such a problem
>with it, I even bought one of those foilers which is useless, any hints or
>is it just practice.   By the way have a nice trip! you very lucky 
>person!         Donna!!!!                                   
>
Hi Donna, this is Carol
Foiling is practice.  I too have used the hand foilers and had reasonable
success with them.  Most people probably think I foil in an awkward manner
and somewhat backwards.  Works for me though.  Holding the foil with the
start at 12 o'clock adhesive side up, apply to the bottom of the edge of
glass.  Roll the glass towards yourself, being careful to center the foil on
the glass or is it the glass on the foil??!!

Good luck
Carol


From owner-glass Fri May 12 00:22:40 1995
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From: Teresa M Vaughn <76531.71@compuserve.com>
To: Dave <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: foiling
Date: 12 May 95 03:20:05 EDT
Message-ID: <1995May12.7205.0>
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Donna,
The trick to foiling is patience and practice.  Take the time to do it correctly
the first time.  My husband, daughter and I all use the same style of technique
which works for "lefties" as well as "righties".  Pull the covering off of a
short length of foil, center and press the foil on the cut edge of the glass,
then go back to press down the sides and burnish.  The trick is to hold the
glass in the nondominant hand (the one you don't write with) and guide the foil
with the dominant hand.  This gives you better control.  Good luck, and remember
glass is individualistic, you will develop a style with time which works for
you!
Teresa
Glass Works


From owner-glass Fri May 12 05:38:47 1995
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From:         Dorothy Kalahan <HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu>
To:           glass@bungi.com
Subject:      Re: foiling
Date:         Fri, 12 May 95 08:32:56 EDT
Message-ID:   <950512.083706.EDT.HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu>
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My husband uses a foiler and he swears by it, since he did have trouble
getting foil on straight and he does a beautiful job now.  I prefer to
curl up in comfy chair.  I have to have good light.  I continually look
from one side of the glass to the other to see if the foil jutting out
on either side looks even.  Mostly, it's practice, practice, practice.
Take it slow and be careful.
Dorothy   hcladm02@uconnvm.uconn.edu

From owner-glass Fri May 12 08:20:20 1995
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From: cooperd@Camosun.BC.CA
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: foiling
Date: Fri, 12 May 1995 08:19:01 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1995May12.0191.0>
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Thanks, everyone who answered my foiling question, yes I guess it is 
practice, practice, practice!                      Donna!!!glass alas! 


From owner-glass Fri May 12 08:25:00 1995
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From: ae479@detroit.freenet.org (Sue Becker)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: repeat please
Date: Fri, 12 May 1995 11:24:23 -0400
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Lost in transfer the message listing glass manufacturers in the NW.
Would much appreciate a copy.  Thanks.

Reply-To: ae479@detroit.freenet.org

--

p

From owner-glass Fri May 12 12:02:24 1995
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From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: foiling
Date: Fri, 12 May 1995 12:02:08 -0700
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Hello...this is Howard
Donna, Yes the only way to get better is to practice. I personally
do not use any enhancements or mechanical items for foiling. Perhaps
if used a dark background to look down on while foiling, it may help.
Experiment with different ways of holding and putting on the foil
until you find one yhat suits you. 
It is only glass...enjoy

From owner-glass Fri May 12 12:10:05 1995
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From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: foiling
Date: Fri, 12 May 1995 12:09:47 -0700
Message-ID: <199505121909.AA02203@ednet1.osl.or.gov>
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Howard, again...
I am right-handed, and I hold the glass in my right hand and apply
and guide the foil with my left hand...as you see, it is up to the
individual to find a suitable method. I recommend a foil holder, and
I do not cut off small pieces, put keep using the foil as it comes
off the roll. If you are doing free form stuff, 1.5mil will hold
better, if you are doing multipiece framed stuff, 1mil is easier
to handle.
enjoy

From owner-glass Fri May 12 17:36:47 1995
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From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: repeat please
Date: Fri, 12 May 1995 17:34:48 -0700
Message-ID: <199505130034.AA27567@ednet1.osl.or.gov>
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Howard, here...
Hello, Sue,
Did you want the NW manufacturers, such as Bullesye and Uroborus,
or distributor, either wholesalers and or mail order retailers.
I did not save the list of suppliers that was posted earlier, but
some one probably can put them bacj on. If you want glass makers
(factories) that I can do with contact nam
Enjoy

From owner-glass Sat May 13 14:55:19 1995
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From: ae479@detroit.freenet.org (Sue Becker)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: repeat please
Date: Sat, 13 May 1995 17:54:20 -0400
Message-ID: <199505132154.RAA17319@detroit.freenet.org>
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Am planning my first trip to the Seattle-Vancouver area in the fall and would 
like to visit glass manufacturers in the area.  I think the note named
Bullseye, Urobros and Spectrum.  Head east fairly often and always try 
to make a stop at Blenko.

Thanks for your interest and have enjoyed following your correspondence. 
Having a glass guru is a new luxury.

Reply-To: ae479@detroit.freenet.org

>
>
>
>Howard, here...
>Hello, Sue,
>Did you want the NW manufacturers, such as Bullesye and Uroborus,
>or distributor, either wholesalers and or mail order retailers.
>I did not save the list of suppliers that was posted earlier, but
>some one probably can put them bacj on. If you want glass makers
>(factories) that I can do with contact nam
>Enjoy
>
>

--

p

From owner-glass Sat May 13 21:43:55 1995
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From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: repeat please
Date: Sat, 13 May 1995 21:44:17 -0700
Message-ID: <199505140444.AA10499@ednet1.osl.or.gov>
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Hello Sue,
The Portland glass manufacturers are about 3.5 hours from Seattle.
It is an easy ride, south on I5 into Portland. I can and will
give you names and directions if you so desire. Spectrum is just
outside of SEattle, in Woodenville, also easy access. They have 
a toll free number, and the president is Jim Matthews and will
probably remember my name. They do give tours and even without
my name you should have no trouble getting in.
Spectrum...1-800-426-3120.
Enjoy

From owner-glass Tue May 16 20:09:25 1995
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From: lloydba@post.QueensU.CA (Lucy Lloyd-Batson)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Gatewayed mail message
Date: Tue, 16 May 1995 23:07:37 -0400
Message-ID: <199505170307.XAA12757@post.QueensU.CA>
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Subscribe (Lucy Lloyd-Batson)
Lucy Lloyd-Batson
Queen's University


From owner-glass Tue May 16 21:48:46 1995
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From: burtman@PrimeNet.Com (Burt Eastburn)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: finishing touches
Date: Tue, 16 May 1995 21:48:12 -0700
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Evening, this is Mrs. Burtman, Lorley.  I have my lamp put together and now
need to know how to do the finishing touches.  I have rough soldered all the
seams and plan to spend some time smoothing and rounding them out.  Do I
clean the lamp up then?  How do I get the greasy paste flux off?  Then how
do I patina?  I think we talked about that a month or so ago but I wasn't
that close to that part of the project.  Is there any thing I need to watch
w/ the patina if some of my glass is glue chipped? Does patina get into the
crevices?   When I wax it do I have to skip waxing the glue chip glass??  I
am having a difficult time advancing from one step to the next.  I don't
want to do anything that I will regret since I have no "in house" stained
glass expert nearby.  Thanks for the advice.  I'm looking forward very much
to doing a flat stained glass window panel next..   Bye for now, Lorley.


From owner-glass Tue May 16 23:38:07 1995
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From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: finishing touches
Date: Tue, 16 May 1995 23:38:16 -0700
Message-ID: <199505170638.AA26463@ednet1.osl.or.gov>
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this is Howard...Hot soapy water, cleanser, or if you are careful,
and can work out side, gasoline, or kerosine, or a petroleum type
product will cut the grease of the paste flux. Then was completely. 
I pre-heat the patina in hot tap water, and WEAR rubber gloves, apply
it on the solder witha coarse plastic scrubber with vigor. Do not let 
it dry, but as soon as it blackens the solder, wash it off, again,
even in winter , I work out side with patina. If the cap is tinned,
it will also blacken well, if not I scrub the brass cap until it
has an antique type finish (use the pot scrubber with patina). If
you are using a wax type polish, use carefully only on the solder.
Is the chip facing in on the shade or out. Lemon oil type polish will
also put a nice finish on the solder, but is not as long lasting as
a wax. Some one else said to use KEM-O-PRO carnuba wax, and I agree
that is works well. Even wd-40 lightly sprayed on a rag and applied
to the lamp will put a nice shine on it...it is not a permanent
finish, though. I do not think you can cause anything to happen
that cannot be undone.
Sorry , I forgot to say hello, Lorley.
Enjoy,it is only glass

From owner-glass Thu May 18 16:59:19 1995
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From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: hello
Date: Thu, 18 May 1995 16:59:04 -0700
Message-ID: <199505182359.AA27247@ednet1.osl.or.gov>
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this is Howard...last night was the finish of my two 8 week courses.
Most beginners did at least 2 complete small panel lamps, and 1
advanced student a 16 clematis with the tuck row. I am off teaching
until the first week in September. Many unhappy students who do not
remember what life was like without glass. Still "online and willing
to spread info to the four directions. 
It is only glass...enjoy

From owner-glass Thu May 18 17:30:38 1995
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From: Susan Eiszler <eiszler@cps.cmich.edu>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Stained Glass News
Date: Thu, 18 May 1995 20:30:06 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <1995May18.16306.0>
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Hi All,
	I was in Grand Rapids, MI today and since I had five hours to 
kill (while waiting for my dog to have surgery), I made a bee-line for 
the nearest stained glass shop.  After being in there about 15 minutes, 
it suddenly dawned on me that this place is the home of Stained Glass 
News, the freebie periodical that I assume most of you get at your local 
supplier.
	The shop/showroom is gorgeous.  They just moved into it last 
August.  It is very contemporary with lots of glass up to the ceiling 
which is approximately 2 stories high at one end of the building.  The 
teaching/construction area is very spacious and boy do I wish I lived 
nearby.  I was really impressed.  All the stained glass stores I have 
been in have had friendly and helpful workers and that certainly was the 
case with this place too.
	I did my part in helping the local economy while in that store.
	...and now back to the 9 windows I am still working on.

Sue
eiszler@cps.cmich.edu


From owner-glass Fri May 19 07:28:50 1995
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From: NAPPERzzzz@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Stained Glass News
Date: Fri, 19 May 1995 10:26:54 -0400
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I have a question...does anyone know whether or not you can go to a glass
manufacturing facility and buy glass direct from them, thereby being able to
pick the sheets you want.  I do Tiffany reproduction lamps and have been
disappointed several times with the glass I ordered from a sample ---   Does
anyone have the addresses for the major glass manufacturers around the
country?  I'm from the midwest but have flight priveleges and would and could
fly to select my own glass.  Thanks for any help         Sherry

From owner-glass Fri May 19 07:35:24 1995
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From: YJGE26A@prodigy.com (MRS ELSIE M TURQMAN)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: reactivate
Date: Fri, 19 May 1995 10:18:02 EDT
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Back from vacation, please reactivate participation

Elsie Turqman 



From owner-glass Fri May 19 09:35:57 1995
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From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Stained Glass News
Date: Fri, 19 May 1995 09:35:51 -0700
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this is Howard...
Hello, Sherry, first time I have seen your name on the screen.
I am only familiar with Bullseye and Uroborus because I live 3.5 hrs.
from Portland. Uro does and will sell to you, and you can choose your
own glass,HOWEVER, they are fussy about letting you buy stock sheets
(production). They expect you to choose from the curious glass, a 
wonderful limitation for a lampmaker who does not have to duplicate
their previous pieces exactly. With some prior discussion, you
probably can get to Bullseye, and again will have to use their non-
production sheets...call for appointments at both. Both are easy to
get to from the airport(PDX). Also check for minimum purchase if
theu want one, and you may need credentials??? As for mail order from
small samples, on a five color 5.25sq ft sheet, a 2"x4" sample can not
do justice to the whole sheet, and should explain your dissapointment.
Generally they are production sheets unless the resaler stipulates
curious, end of day, Saturday, or transition glass, all terms for non-
production and hard to duplicate glass.
If you have a chance it would be nice to find out a little of what you
do, lamps you make, how many, etc. I have many tips for both Odyssey and
Worden. As long as you are not selling them in my back yard, I am
comfortable passing on techniques. 
It is only glass...enjoy

From owner-glass Sun May 21 15:09:22 1995
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From: MPGP79B@prodigy.com (PEGGY M PALM)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Workshops in NEast
Date: Sun, 21 May 1995 17:24:57 EDT
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-- [ From: Peggy Palm * EMC.Ver #2.10P ] --

Someone on the list asked about workshops in the northeast this summer.
I think it was Robert, but can't find the original post, so am sending
this to the list.
I couldn't find anyone who knew of a workshop this summer, but there
was a suggestion to contact:

Kay Weiner                                                  
Glass Craft Festival                                        
696 Palisade Ave                                            
Teaneck, NJ 08666                                           
201-836-8940                                                
Fax: 836-4108                                               
                                                            
Newark: November  9, 10, 11, 12, 1995                       
Orlandy: February 8, 9, 10, 11, 1996                        

I think this means that workshops are offered for those dates.  Anyone
interested  should be able to get further information.  Hope it helps! 
  Peggy


From owner-glass Mon May 22 16:27:29 1995
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From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: hello out there
Date: Mon, 22 May 1995 16:27:00 -0700
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this is Howard...
Hope you all had a good week and are ready to get back to "glass"
If any of you are trying to find good mission style oak bases,
I will have 12 of them tomorrow. Mission stuff seems to be real popular
lately. 
It is only glass
enjoy

From owner-glass Mon May 22 16:52:22 1995
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From: ae479@detroit.freenet.org (Sue Becker)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: hello out there
Date: Mon, 22 May 1995 19:51:39 -0400
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Very interested in mission style bases.  Can you give me more information?
Are yours for sale?  Am working on a mission style lampshade now.

Thanks.

Reply-To: ae479@detroit.freenet.org

>
>
>
>this is Howard...
>Hope you all had a good week and are ready to get back to "glass"
>If any of you are trying to find good mission style oak bases,
>I will have 12 of them tomorrow. Mission stuff seems to be real popular
>lately. 
>It is only glass
>enjoy
>
>

--

p

From owner-glass Mon May 22 18:49:14 1995
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From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: hello out there
Date: Mon, 22 May 1995 18:48:55 -0700
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Howard here...Hello Sue.  The bases will be in tomorrow.
They'll probably be about $90.00.  I'll let you know after
I know the final cost of freight.  I'll let you know the
specific height, too.

Enjoy.

From owner-glass Mon May 22 18:54:42 1995
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From: Kristina Santilla <santilla@umd5.umd.edu>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: hello out there
Date: Mon, 22 May 1995 21:53:45 -0400 (EDT)
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Howard, 

	I tried the Simichrome you recommended, and I am just thrilled 
with the result on copper patina. It almost glows. 

	I was also thrilled with Delphi, who I ordered it from. When I 
called, they said that there would be a charge for their catalog, so I 
asked if I could place an order and get one free, and they said not only 
would they send me a catalog, but give me a 25% discount for my initial 
order. Needless to say, I ran off a list of everything I could think of 
that I needed. The best part is that the order arrived with no back 
orders only 3 days later.

	Their phone number is 1-800-248-2048 in case anyone is interested.
	
	My last mail order experience with a stained glass company out of New 
Jersey (who shall remain nameless) was so awful- I placed an order in 
January, was told they were out of stock on everything I wanted and after
3 or 4 follow-up calls and 4 months had past, I finally gave up.

	Thanks again,
	Krisi Santilla
	santilla@umd5.umd.edu


From owner-glass Mon May 22 21:53:59 1995
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From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: hello out there
Date: Mon, 22 May 1995 21:54:23 -0700
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Howard here...Hello, Krisi,
I am glad the simichrome worked. I use it for my copper patinaed
shades. Because of the extra time involved in doing it as production,
I usually match a cubase to it and charge more in the galleries
without an exchange option on base and shade.
I know of Delphi, and some of my students have used them with
success, being a manufacturer and a re-seller, I try to deal factory
direct whenever possible. At times I have to buy by the case to met
minimums or establish myself with them. The current 12 oak bases is an
example of a minimun order. 
it is only glass...enjoy

From owner-glass Tue May 23 15:15:47 1995
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From: Susan Eiszler <eiszler@cps.cmich.edu>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: hello out there
Date: Tue, 23 May 1995 18:13:35 -0400 (EDT)
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Hi All,
	Two things:  First of all, just to add to info about Delphi and 
their mail order.  I have always had terrific luck with them and I happen 
to live about an hour away so have also been there.  They couldn't be 
nicer...
	Second, our local stained glass shop (I am not affiliated with 
them in any way) has designed some birdhouses which are much much better 
than the those in the book "For the Birds".  If anyone is interested in 
knowing more about them or wants pictures of them, email me privately and 
I'll tell you about them.

Sue
eiszler@cps.cmich.edu


From owner-glass Tue May 23 18:10:25 1995
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From: MPGP79B@prodigy.com (PEGGY M PALM)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Colors for dogwood lampshade
Date: Tue, 23 May 1995 19:22:23 EDT
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-- [ From: Peggy Palm * EMC.Ver #2.10P ] --

OK, fellow lamp enthusiasts, I'm starting to look for glass for an 18" 
Worden dogwood.  I have a couple of limitations and need some advice. 

First, I'm stuck with mail-ordering my glass, but don't have a resale
number, so can't order from wholesale places.  There aren't any stores
nearby with any stock of art glass, which is what I want to use. 
Second, the Worden pattern specifies several shades of pink for the
blossoms, but I would rather use shades of white/cream with touches of
pink/gold/burgundy.  

As someone recently noted, you can't really tell from a 2 inch sample,
what colors exist in the sheet.  Does anyone know of a specific stock
number(s) which would give me the colors I'm looking for?  If not,  am
I stuck with trial and error ordering, or is there a better way?

Also, the pattern says that the lamp has to be divided either
horizontally or vertically to get it off the form.  Any advantages to
one or the other (or is there a  "Howard's ingenious solution" that
works even better)?  It'll be ages before I get to that stage, but I
can't figure out how they expect me to divide it vertically if I've
soldered it to a ring!

Thanks for any words of wisdom....     Peggy


From owner-glass Tue May 23 23:51:28 1995
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From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Colors for dogwood lampshade
Date: Tue, 23 May 1995 23:50:30 -0700
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howard...here.
Lots of advice to come later...but for now, hang on.  I strongly
urge you to forget Worden's color advice, and go with your own.
Hint...lamp can be assembled on form with careful use of copper
wire. Will word process a more detailed set of instructions soon.
I will post it to the list, rather to you (Peggy) direct.
A new sigh off is in the works...To paraphrase a popular PNW program,
Howard has left the computer!

From owner-glass Wed May 24 12:06:57 1995
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From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin)
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Subject: Re: hello out there
Date: Wed, 24 May 1995 12:04:55 -0700
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howard, here...
to Sue, the bases are here, and if you want I will reply to you
direct, rather than the list...let me know.
To paraphrase a popular PNW show, Howard has left the computer.
P.S. they are high quality, will give full specs according to your
reply, theu are also made in US

From owner-glass Wed May 24 12:25:12 1995
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Date: Wed, 24 May 1995 12:24:32 -0700
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Peggy, this is Howard..Do not do anything yet, I will have info
and instructions from pattern prep to flux to glass to finish work.
I sent a mail earlier, but it got returned...Please reconfirm your
address. A few thoughts, what companies can you access, I like using
Yogo stipples, a waxy translucent style of glass. It takes low wattage
well and is not very reflective when off. Will have much more on
color phasing, density, color overlaps to next pieces...you asked 
for it!
To paraphrase a popular PNW show...Howard has left the computer.

From owner-glass Wed May 24 21:09:18 1995
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From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: 18" dagwood..list and Peggy
Date: Wed, 24 May 1995 21:08:01 -0700
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First, good thinking on if you soldered the cap, how could you separate it

Initial set up of pattern...If the blue one is on water-proof paper (oil-cloth)

feel to it, put it on the styroform with short straight pins(silk pins). If it

is just heavy paper, COVER both sides with clear contact paper (sticky)

shelf paper BEFORE you cut it apart to go on the form. 

As for the paper pattern that you will cut the glass from...If convenient, copy

it onto clear acetate, cover the acetate on both sides with clear contact shelf

paper before cutting the patterns out. This will allow you to see through it, and

use the colors and shading in the glass to its maximum. If no acetate, cover the

paper pattern with clear shelf anyway...makes it more durable and easier to 

trace around...most people cut the glass big, so either cut off the trace line

on the glass, or cut the pattern piece smaller to allow for the line and leave 

it on. 

As for the colors, Bullseye or Uroborus ring mottles will do well for the

flowers, and if you use sheets that have some of the same colors as flowers,

but mostly greens they would tie in the flowers to the leaves. Pick a back-

ground glass containing some of the same colors as the other sheets, and over

lap the colors, that is a spot of green or purple of a flower touching a leaf.

Some of the same colors of flowers or leaves meeting at the same area of

the backgroung works too. If you use three or four unrelated colors, the lamp

will appera harsh with no color transitions. You do not need to repeat the

same colors of the flowers at the same places in the repeats. In some cases

one repeat may be a flower and in another repeat of the same pattern, make it

a leaf. If your eye has to look to see what it is, that adds interest to the shade.

Another very nice glass to work with isYoughiogheny, here after called

"Yogo". I very much like the stipples. They are pastel colored and waxy 

looking, and work well with low wattage. If you do use Yogo, cut with

VERY VERY little pressure. You will notice that Ii am having trouble

giving you specific sheet numbers, I will try to later in the note.

As for assembly, start at the top, pin on the first few rows, about 1/4 of the

way down leave the two halves interlocked, foiled, but NOT soldered to

each other. Take two pieces of copper wire and solder one of each piece

on either side of the halves twist together, and repeat this procedure every 

2nd or 3rd row (can be uneven rows) until down to the bottom. It will "lace"

the halves together. When all the pieces are on, the wires can be loosened

a little(enough to slide the form out without losing the dome shape). I usually

solder the final bead before removing the form, but you need to be careful

not to melt the styrofoam. 

I Strongly suggest you get a lamp leveler for holding the lamp while working

on it. I can sell you one for about $65.00. It can be used for soldering the

inside ,too. 

I usually cut all the glass out, jury it on a light box in its entirety. For the

dogwood, however, careful use of the flower glass and overlapping

of the colors of petals will be enough if you do not have a large light box.

DEFINATELY cut them on a small light source...a bare bulb in a socket

with a piece of plate glass supported by wood blocks, books, bricks,etc

will make a simple light box.

Use a oil based paste flux to minimize the oxidation of the foil.

As for the glass, it would be worth your time to call the manufacturers and ask

for color numbers and who stocks and will sell them to you. You would not

do better with a resale# for the actual glass, though. If you cannot get a 

resellor to accomodate your desires, I can get glass you want by the #s sent

to you and billed to me, and you could pay me for it. I am guessing that it would

meet the minimum needed for glass. AGAIN, buy by the sheet...do not use

Worden suggestions for sqft as it will not allow for color phasing and overlap.

Delphi was mentioned as a very good source...call them to see what they have

in stock that matches the colors you want. I do not like Kokomo, but it was

used heavily in early lamps.

Sorry for the dis-jointed info...done at different times with a lack
of coordination on my part, however, the advice should work. Anyone
with questions, feel free to ask.
enjoy
Howard has left the computer...PNW is Pacific North West

From owner-glass Wed May 24 21:21:23 1995
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From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: hello out there
Date: Wed, 24 May 1995 21:21:26 -0700
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This is Howard...There here... The mission style oak bases are as
follows 19" high to the bottom of the socket( a riser of 1.5" can be 
removed, about 13" from outside from leg to leg(across), post 2.25
square with flutes extending to bottom of base, medium dark oak,
felt on bottom, UL listed and made in USA. I can send one for $100.00
incl shipping, also forgot 9" hd harp and 3way socket for bulb.
If you want one let me know and we can make arrangements, and if
you are unhappy when you get it, send it back for a refund.
I am slightly out of sync...this is for Sue Becker, sorry for no
salutation first. If any one else is interested let me know.
Enjoy

From owner-glass Thu May 25 15:43:51 1995
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From: rneaves@ix.netcom.com (Roger Neaves)
To: glass@bungi.com.
Subject: kilns
Date: Thu, 25 May 1995 15:41:29 -0700
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I have just taken a basic class infusing and am very excited about this 
new hobby.  I am looking for a used kiln - not too small - working 
condition.  Anybody have a clue as to how I go about finding one?

Janet Neaves




From owner-glass Thu May 25 20:31:58 1995
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From: matmbc90@ix.netcom.com (Matthew J. McDonnell, Jr.)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: kilns
Date: Thu, 25 May 1995 20:28:35 -0700
Message-ID: <199505260328.UAA12450@ix5.ix.netcom.com>
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You wrote: 
>
>I have just taken a basic class infusing and am very excited about 
this 
>new hobby.  I am looking for a used kiln - not too small - working 
>condition.  Anybody have a clue as to how I go about finding one?
>
>Janet Neaves
>
>
>
>

Hi Janet, this is Terry.

I'm going out on a limb because I really don't know much about used 
kilns but, what about the classifieds in trade magazines there are 
several general craft magazines that have classified sections in the 
back - perhaps that would be a place to start.

Also, in my area there is a weekly local info-shopper paper that goes 
around and has local classifieds, if you have something like this in 
your area you could put an add in, that you are looking for a kiln.

lastly, there is a Newsgroup called (misc.forsale) it is a Usenet 
marketplace - maybe you could give that a try.

Well, hope this was of some help, let me know how you do.

Terry

From owner-glass Fri May 26 06:03:34 1995
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From:         Dorothy Kalahan <HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu>
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Date:         Fri, 26 May 95 08:59:53 EDT
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And make sure that the kiln you buy is comapatible with the power sources
in your home!  You don't want to have to rewire!

Dorothy

From owner-glass Fri May 26 11:58:14 1995
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From: ae479@detroit.freenet.org (Sue Becker)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: hello out there
Date: Fri, 26 May 1995 14:56:38 -0400
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Howard - thanks for the info on the bases.  My shade is only about 12"
wide.  The bases sound beautiful but would overwhelm this shade.

If you don't mind, will inform my group you have them available.  We break
very soon for the summer so you probably will not hear from us til fall.
 
Reply-To: ae479@detroit.freenet.org

>
>
>
>This is Howard...There here... The mission style oak bases are as
>follows 19" high to the bottom of the socket( a riser of 1.5" can be 
>removed, about 13" from outside from leg to leg(across), post 2.25
>square with flutes extending to bottom of base, medium dark oak,
>felt on bottom, UL listed and made in USA. I can send one for $100.00
>incl shipping, also forgot 9" hd harp and 3way socket for bulb.
>If you want one let me know and we can make arrangements, and if
>you are unhappy when you get it, send it back for a refund.
>I am slightly out of sync...this is for Sue Becker, sorry for no
>salutation first. If any one else is interested let me know.
>Enjoy
>
>

--

p

From owner-glass Fri May 26 12:03:25 1995
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From: ae479@detroit.freenet.org (Sue Becker)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: [MAILER-DAEMON: Returned mail: User unknown]
Date: Fri, 26 May 1995 15:02:17 -0400
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    ================= Begin forwarded message =================

    From: MAILER-DAEMON (Mail Delivery Subsystem)
    To: ae479
    Subject: Returned mail: User unknown
    Date: Fri, 26 May

    
    The original message was received at Fri, 26 May 1995 14:56:38 -0400
    from ae479@localhost
    
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    550 ad479... User unknown
    
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    Date: Fri, 26 May 1995 14:56:38 -0400
    Message-Id: <199505261856.OAA28344@detroit.freenet.org>
    From: ae479@detroit.freenet.org (Sue Becker)
    To: glass@bungi.com
    Subject: Re: hello out there
    Cc: ad479
    Reply-To: ae479@detroit.freenet.org
    
    
    
    Howard - thanks for the info on the bases.  My shade is only about 12"
    wide.  The bases sound beautiful but would overwhelm this shade.
    
    If you don't mind, will inform my group you have them available.  We break
    very soon for the summer so you probably will not hear from us til fall.
     
    Reply-To: ae479@detroit.freenet.org
    
    >
    >
    >
    >This is Howard...There here... The mission style oak bases are as
    >follows 19" high to the bottom of the socket( a riser of 1.5" can be 
    >removed, about 13" from outside from leg to leg(across), post 2.25
    >square with flutes extending to bottom of base, medium dark oak,
    >felt on bottom, UL listed and made in USA. I can send one for $100.00
    >incl shipping, also forgot 9" hd harp and 3way socket for bulb.
    >If you want one let me know and we can make arrangements, and if
    >you are unhappy when you get it, send it back for a refund.
    >I am slightly out of sync...this is for Sue Becker, sorry for no
    >salutation first. If any one else is interested let me know.
    >Enjoy
    >
    >
    
    --
    
    p
    
    
    
Original message was returned and am trying again.
XXX



--

p

From owner-glass Sat May 27 20:14:28 1995
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X-Path: gjr
From: matmbc90@ix.netcom.com (Matthew J. McDonnell, Jr.)
To: gjr@daver.bungi.com
Subject: Night Light Fixtures
Date: Sat, 27 May 1995 12:45:16 -0700
Message-ID: <199505271945.MAA29165@ix4.ix.netcom.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

HELP!!!

This is Terry,  I went to my supplier this morning to get some 
supplies, one of which was night light fixtures and they are all out 
and don't know when they will be getting more in.  I've called around 
to electrical supply places and they all think I'm nuts (which is true 
but, that's beside the point.)

Does anyone know who manufactures these things?  I just need the 
electrical bases, I have the clips.  I have three craft shows coming up 
and I need to get these things fast.

Thanks for the help, Terry.

P.S. Janet - you were looking for kilns, Warner Crivellaro in PA is 
having a close-out sale they have a Quick Fire II Cat. No. 4185-05 
(firing chamber measures 4"x4"x4")  Regular price $149.95 on sale for 
$92.00 and a Quick Fire VI Cat. No. 4185-07 (firing chamber 6"x6"x6") 
Regular price $189.95 on sale for $126.50 the phone number is 
1-800-523-4242 they do mailorder.


From owner-glass Sat May 27 20:42:01 1995
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From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Night Light Fixtures
Date: Sat, 27 May 1995 20:41:38 -0700
Message-ID: <199505280341.AA00348@ednet1.osl.or.gov>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk



Hello Terry, this is Howard...
How many fixtures do you need. I can have some shipped to you and billed 
to me. We need to agree on a price and may have to make a minimum, also
bulbs if necessary. If the minimum is too much or you doo not need enough, I can get them and send them to you...a little longer that way.
Sooner the better
enjoy

From owner-glass Sun May 28 09:06:19 1995
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From: matmbc90@ix.netcom.com (Matthew J. McDonnell, Jr.)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Thanks for the Night Light Info
Date: Sun, 28 May 1995 09:02:52 -0700
Message-ID: <199505281602.JAA15732@ix4.ix.netcom.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi everyone, this is Terry, 

I really appreciate the information on the Night Light fixtures.  
Peggy, my supplier was Warner Crivellaro - I live about one hour away 
from them and I go out about once a month.  Evidently they are in the 
middle of either changing suppliers or changing product, they really 
couldn't give me a complete answer nor could they tell me when they 
would have them again.  Thank you so much though for taking the time to 
check the catalog for me.

Thanks again, Terry.

P.S. Howard, I'll email you directly - Thanks.

From owner-glass Mon May 29 12:58:42 1995
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To: rglass-1
X-Path: cpcn.com!maruca
From: maruca@cpcn.com (la madrugadora)
Subject: class info requested
Date: Mon, 29 May 1995 15:56:42 -0400
Message-ID: <9505291956.AA07453@info.cpcn.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hello! I've just received a months worth of old posts, so forgive me if
this seems out dated.
R. Crane  wrote:
>>
I live in Eastern Canada and was wondering if anybody out there knew of 
any interesting workshops taking place during the months of July and 
August in the Eastern U.S. or Canada. (Not really heavy stuff, but I

been working with glass for a year or two and not" really" green) Lamp 
making would be nice but I am open to almost any learning 
experience.Thanks in anticipation of your reply, best of luck

[end copy}

I haven't taken the stained glass course at the August Heritage Center
summer sessions, but I have an herbs class, which I recommend very
highly. I work with all kinds of traditional music, which is a large
part of their program, and can testify to the quality of those
instructors. That said, here's the info on: class for all levels, int or
adv. will be encouraged to work on design skills and build window or
lampshade. bring or patterns or use those provided, materials $20-$75.
Class taught by David and Bonnie Proudfoot of Art Glass of West

The classes are held at Davis and Elkins College, Elkins WV. This one is
scheduled for July 9 to 14, tuition is $270, housing available on campus
on in nearby hotels or B&Bs.
phone: 304-636-8624
email: augusta@euclid.DnE.wvnet.edu

Wish I could get that week off, I'd be there for sure!

Mary Armstrong
maruca@cpcn.com

From owner-glass Mon May 29 15:28:29 1995
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X-Path: cps201.cps.cmich.edu!eiszler
From: Susan Eiszler <eiszler@cps.cmich.edu>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: drilling glass
Date: Mon, 29 May 1995 18:27:47 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <1995May29.142747.0>
References: <<9505291956.AA07453@info.cpcn.com>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi all,
	I tried to drill a hole in a piece of glass this afternoon.  I 
kept the area wet with water and after about 20 minutes had made a dent 
in the glass.  OK, obviously, I didn't do things correctly.  What am I 
supposed to do?  Is there a special drill bit I should be using?  I have 
never seen one in the supply catalogs?  Can I use a bit that takes out an 
inch hole all at once (I don't know what those bits are called)?
	Suggestions will be appreciated a lot.
Sue
eiszler@cps.cmich.edu


From owner-glass Mon May 29 22:09:06 1995
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From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: drilling glass
Date: Mon, 29 May 1995 19:59:27 -0700
Message-ID: <199505300259.AA04579@ednet1.osl.or.gov>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk



Hi Sue, this is Howard...Yes there are special glass drills. There
is a 1/4 and a 1/8 drill for glass that goes on a grinder. They are
diamond covered studs that have to be hand wettted with a sponge.
A home made drill can be made by using a piece of copper tubing, the
diameter you want, carbide silica sand, and clay to form a dike
around the place where the hole is to be drilled. A variable speed 
can supply the power on low rpm and the sand acts as an abrasive
to gring through the glass. The water or something stickier such
as anti-freeze supplies the coolant and lubricant for cutting. It
is quicker and easier to buy a diamond drill. It will be expensive
to get a 1" hole for glass, but you can enlarge a smaller hole with
care and patience. 
Once the hole is big enough a 3/4 standard diamond bit can be used
and the hole enlarged...I hope this helps
Enjoy...

From owner-glass Tue May 30 05:51:24 1995
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From:         Dorothy Kalahan <HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu>
To:           glass@bungi.com
Subject:      Re: drilling glass
Date:         Tue, 30 May 95 08:40:14 EDT
Message-ID:   <950530.084955.EDT.HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu>
References: <<1995May29.142747.0>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Sue, two great minds....you and my husband.  He spent yesterday working
out how to drill a hole in glass.  Mind you, I know there is something
that you can put on your grinder (soem kind of grinding wheel) that will
do it, but our local store didn't have them and my husband was determined
to do it NOW.  So he went to the hardware store and bought a glass bit for
his drill.  Now we don't have a drill press, so then he had to build a jig
to hold his drill steady so the bit would dig in and not dance across the
glass.  But by the end of the day, we had a hole in the glass!  Used machine
oil on the spot we were drilling (since we had plenty of that).  Also ran
the drill through the rheostat so we could slow it down.
Lots of suncatchers completed this weekend, too.  Craft fair Sunday.
Dorothy

From owner-glass Tue May 30 10:23:35 1995
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From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: drilling glass
Date: Tue, 30 May 1995 10:23:32 -0700
Message-ID: <199505301723.AA17804@ednet1.osl.or.gov>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk



Howard here... Many ways to de-pelt the proverbial feline ( I do not
follow that practice) but I always take time into consideration as well
as results. Many times the money spent comes back in less labor, and a
more consistant product. I will generally hire a person to do something
that can be done fastwer than I can do it. In that time I can make and sell
a lamp...net result I do what I like and do not have to struggle with
a project I did not want to do in the first place. The thread is raveling
and rambling...Enjoy your craft fair and If you get a chance let me (list)
know the mechanics and how you made out. I am NOT interested in doing any
so no secrets revealed will come back to haunt you from me.
Enjoy

From owner-glass Tue May 30 11:21:54 1995
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From:         Dorothy <HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu>
To:           glass@bungi.com
Subject:      Re: drilling glass
Date:         Tue, 30 May 95 14:14:45 EDT
Message-ID:   <950530.142045.EDT.HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu>
References: <<199505301723.AA17804@ednet1.osl.or.gov>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

My husband spent a day making a jig so that he can now drill holes with
abandon.  The first was a b----h, bu the rest will take only a few minutes.
It's basically a box to hold the glass in place topped by a box to hold
the hand drill steady.  He wants to drill the center hole for clocks,
which will give us more versatility in design.
Just finished a batch of butterflies...I love stuff I can make from the
scrap of other stuff.
Dorothy

From owner-glass Tue May 30 12:09:31 1995
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From: JCWALE@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: drilling glass
Date: Tue, 30 May 1995 15:08:49 -0400
Message-ID: <950530150849_16992009@aol.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

I have drilled 1" dia holes in glass, it takes time (20 minutes for 1/8'
glass). Pick up a cheap 1" dia hole saw at a hardware store (designed to
drill in wood). Break off the center drill, and Grind off ALL the teeth, so
you have smooth edge. Put it in a drill press, clamp the glass to the
drilling table. The 'grit' used to grind through the glass can be picked up
in any auto supply, it is called "valve grinding compound". Yes, the same
stuff used to grind valves when rebuilding an engine. It is a semi-paste, so
water can be added to it if you think it is too thick, but I found it to be
about the correct thickness. Take your time...It does work!!!!
good luck.

                              jcw

From owner-glass Tue May 30 16:21:33 1995
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From: Ursel Howland <urselh@freenet.scri.fsu.edu>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: hello there!
Date: Tue, 30 May 95 19:20:19 18000
Message-ID: <199505302320.TAA13046@freenet3.scri.fsu.edu>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk



Hi Glenna, Howard, and all...
Thanks for adding me to the glass mailing list. You-all seem like such
a friendly bunch. Looks like there is more activity here than on
another list I used to subscribe to. Glenna, thanks for forwarding the
past letters, sure got a lot of info out of them.  Have two questions
for anyone out there:  Have been ordering from Warner-Crivallaro, but
am not familiar with Delphi (boy am I jealous of those fortunate
people that live close to them, or even the glass manufacturers!), am
satisfied with WC, but which do you like better.  This is for my
personal info and curiosity only.  Secondly, I am fairly new to
stained glass (1-1/2 yr., self taught) and I make a variety of things,
I like boxes a lot but my very favorite things are windchimes (I
design my own). Have purchased aluminum tubing from a local awning
supplier, but its sooo plain, also fairly thick, but has a nice sound.
I would like to expand into various wall thicknesses and diameters and
perhaps anodized alum. as well. I know it exists, but so far the
sources elude me.  Any ideas?  
Happy soldering - UrselH in northern Florida
PS. I, too, have to attend to gardening, subsequent putting up, sewing
and a variety of other activities. Perhaps we all should give up
sleeping, there would be so much more time for glass work!!!


-- 
e

From owner-glass Tue May 30 17:04:49 1995
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From: Susan Eiszler <eiszler@cps.cmich.edu>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: hello there!
Date: Tue, 30 May 1995 20:03:29 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <1995May30.16329.0>
References: <<199505302320.TAA13046@freenet3.scri.fsu.edu>>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi,
	I live about an hour from Delphi and since my twins go to 
Michigan State which is conveniently 4-5 miles from Delphi, I stop in 
quite often.  The people there are terrific.  I also order mailorder from 
them and have never had any difficulty.  I don't know how the prices 
compare with where you have been ordering, but you could try them once 
and see what you think.  You won't go wrong with their service.

Sue
eiszler@cps.cmich.edu


From owner-glass Tue May 30 17:21:35 1995
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X-Path: ix.netcom.com!matmbc90
From: matmbc90@ix.netcom.com (Matthew J. McDonnell, Jr.)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: hello there!
Date: Tue, 30 May 1995 17:19:52 -0700
Message-ID: <199505310019.RAA02504@ix2.ix.netcom.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Hi..Terry & Matt here...
Our experience has been...Delphi has great kit prices, but W-C has 
lower overall prices....Glass Crafters is best for instructional 
materials.
Hope this was helpful

From owner-glass Tue May 30 17:40:04 1995
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From: matmbc90@ix.netcom.com (Matthew J. McDonnell, Jr.)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: SGAA
Date: Tue, 30 May 1995 17:38:07 -0700
Message-ID: <199505310038.RAA06132@ix2.ix.netcom.com>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

Matt here

Is anyone a member of SGAA?  Is it worth it?

Has anyone heard of the SGAA Reference & Technical Manual?  Are there 
any other books which provide good reference material?  Or are lists 
like this the best way to get questions answered? I must admit, I much 
prefer the personal touch.




From owner-glass Tue May 30 18:00:42 1995
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From: "Rachael Innes" <Rachael_Innes@qmail4.sp.trw.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: hello there!
Date: 30 May 1995 17:53:49 U
Message-ID: <1995May30.95349.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

 RE>hello there!                                          5/30/95   5:42 PM

Hi,
WC has the best individual prices on most things.    Smaller selection of glass listed in the catalog.  Good source for brass trinkets and pewter/whatever thingies you add wings and other things to.  Good to do business with.  Delphi is more expensive, but has the nicest color catalog.  Also very good service.  Hudson has the best selection of the three (esp. in fusible glass), and offers discounts at different price brackets starting at something like 10% for $30-$50, ... 25% for ~$200.  This makes it close to WC and sometimes better.  Once again, very good to do business with.  Glass Crafters seems to be more expensive, but has a few things that the others don't.  Each is worth getting the catalog for, especially the first three.  Must be something about stained glass, and glass art in general, as every mailorder I've dealt with has been very friendly, helpful, and reasonably quick in shipping.  
Now off to place my next order with Hudson, and start using my recent order from Delphi.
Rachael

--------------------------------------
Date: 5/30/95 4:30 PM
To: Rachael Innes
From: glass@bungi.com


Hi Glenna, Howard, and all...
Thanks for adding me to the glass mailing list. You-all seem like such
a friendly bunch. Looks like there is more activity here than on
another list I used to subscribe to. Glenna, thanks for forwarding the
past letters, sure got a lot of info out of them.  Have two questions
for anyone out there:  Have been ordering from Warner-Crivallaro, but
am not familiar with Delphi (boy am I jealous of those fortunate
people that live close to them, or even the glass manufacturers!), am
satisfied with WC, but which do you like better.  This is for my
personal info and curiosity only.  Secondly, I am fairly new to
stained glass (1-1/2 yr., self taught) and I make a variety of things,
I like boxes a lot but my very favorite things are windchimes (I
design my own). Have purchased aluminum tubing from a local awning
supplier, but its sooo plain, also fairly thick, but has a nice sound.
I would like to expand into various wall thicknesses and diameters and
perhaps anodized alum. as well. I know it exists, but so far the
sources elude me.  Any ideas?  
Happy soldering - UrselH in northern Florida
PS. I, too, have to attend to gardening, subsequent putting up, sewing
and a variety of other activities. Perhaps we all should give up
sleeping, there would be so much more time for glass work!!!


-- 
e

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From: Ursel Howland <urselh@freenet.scri.fsu.edu>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: hello there!
Date: Tue, 30 May 95 19:20:19 18000
Message-ID: <199505302320.TAA13046@freenet3.scri.fsu.edu>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk





From owner-glass Tue May 30 18:44:29 1995
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From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: SGAA
Date: Tue, 30 May 1995 18:44:11 -0700
Message-ID: <199505310144.AA26991@ednet1.osl.or.gov>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk



Howard here...Sorry I have no input about SGAA, but most technical
info can be obtained from your suppliers as there are many publications
that are required with products that are sold.

From owner-glass Wed May 31 05:08:08 1995
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X-Path: sysm.acs.virginia.edu!UD59
From: LAUREL HALL <UD59@sysm.acs.virginia.edu>
Subject: Gatewayed mail message
Date: Wed May 31 05:06:57 1995
Message-ID: <1995Jun1.23857.0>
Reply-To: glass@bungi.com
Precedence: bulk

SENDER OF MESSAGE:  KELLI@NETCOM.COM


Hi Glenna, Howard, and all...
Thanks for adding me to the glass mailing list. You-all seem like such
a friendly bunch. Looks like there is more activity here than on
another list I used to subscribe to. Glenna, thanks for forwarding the
past letters, sure got a lot of info out of them.  Have two questions
for anyone out there:  Have been ordering from Warner-Crivallaro, but
am not familiar with Delphi (boy am I jealous of those fortunate
people that live close to them, or even the glass manufacturers!), am
satisfied with WC, but which do you like better.  This is for my
personal info and curiosity only.  Secondly, I am fairly new to
stained glass (1-1/2 yr., self taught) and I make a variety of things,
I like boxes a lot but my very favorite things are windchimes (I
design my own). Have purchased aluminum tubing from a local awning
supplier, but its sooo plain, also fairly thick, but has a nice sound.
I would like to expand into various wall thicknesses and diameters and
perhaps anodized alum. as well. I know it exists, but so far the
sources elude me.  Any ideas?
Happy soldering - UrselH in northern Florida
PS. I, too, have to attend to gardening, subsequent putting up, sewing
and a variety of other activities. Perhaps we all should give up
sleeping, there would be so much more time for glass work!!!


--
e

*** Comments from UD59 - HALL, LAUREL; 05/31/95 08:02:
Hi, Ursehl, I can't believe you make wind chimes!  I've just been
thinking that I'd love to start doing the same.  I have no chimes
and have been craving their sound.  Any advice to someone who knows
absolutely nothing about how to start?  Are there any books on the
subject that you've used?  Thanks, Laurie in sunny Virginia.


LAUREL HALL
UD59@sysm.acs.Virginia.EDU

From owner-glass Wed May 31 12:17:41 1995
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From: Ursel Howland <urselh@freenet.scri.fsu.edu>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: wwind chimes
Date: Wed, 31 May 95 15:17:10 EDT
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Thank you, thank you, to all you busy people in glass land and the
real world, too, for your responses. You satisfied my curiosity. Nice
to be on the same wave length.

Laurie: I arrived at an actual working wind chime by trial and error
and with the help of a very patient husband. The designs on top are
easy, any sun catcher will do. Next decide on the pipe arrangenet:
either in the round (5 make a pretty sound in 1" increments, 6 is
good, too, but more is not necessary), or pan-flute style, all in a
row. The row style needs more wind to sing. The secret to sound in the
round is the inside diameter or space of the pipes: the smaller, the
easier for the clapper to hit against. I wish you could have seen us
try the first one: a) it had only 4 pipes about a mile apart, b) the
pipes were copper (left over water pipe - I try to be thrifty) c) the
pendulum below the clapper was too low and too heavy. But we found all
this out much later. (There must be books on the subject, but I always
do things "on my own" i.e., the hard way, ha). The pipes sounded very
pretty when I held them in my hand, but didn't budge in the breeze. So
we blew on them -- hard! - nothing. Hubby waved a cardboard box in
front of it for increased circulation, no movement, so I dragged out
the old power fan: it rearranged my entire workshop, but the darn
pipes didn't say a word. Oh, they moved, but all in the same direction!
Well, you had to be there.  Anyway, if you do not find any books on
how to make them, just go to a gift shop or garden store, they all
carry oogles of different ones, and spy!!!  After all, there is just
so much to the basic construction of a chime, its our glass design
that makes them different. Have given several away and the recipients
seem to be very pleased with them. Oh, the aluminum tubing needs to
be cut into the desired length (I use 6"to 15"), easiest done with a
cutoff saw, then deburred, and two holes drilled (you'll need a jig
and pref. a drill press) for the hanging strings (fishing line).

Hope I wasn't too wordy. Gotta run now and make some pickles - my
garden is overproducing!! (BTW, I have a surefire recipe for B&B
pickles, if someone wants it, just contact me privately, and I'll
e-mail it at once) --Happy soldering! UrselH=Ursel Howland.


e

From owner-glass Wed May 31 14:00:40 1995
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From: cooperd@Camosun.BC.CA
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: wind chimes
Date: Wed, 31 May 1995 13:58:56 -0800 (PST)
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Hi, Donna here, how's everyone doing? I'm still hanging in there keeping
up with all the useful info, some of which is way over my head anyway its 
interesting, I'm still plugging away at my window of irises and will be
celebrating when it's finally finished, unlike you professionals, this is
quite a difficult project for me.  Thanks for the info on the wind chimes
Ursel I would love to try them, what kind of shape would you use for the 
glass piece and how many glass pieces would you use? By the way what part 
of the counrty are you from? harvesting your garden already.  I'm from 
the west coast and have only picked a few lettuce leaves so far. bye for now.
Donna!!!!glass alas!!!

From owner-glass Wed May 31 16:39:41 1995
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From: Ursel Howland <urselh@freenet.scri.fsu.edu>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: wind chimes
Date: Wed, 31 May 95 19:38:53 18000
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Hi Donna, just logged on again - I'm on a FREEnet :)))--
I drew up a nice tulip design for my mother (her favorite flower),
just a bit larger than a sun catcher. Then I made a circle out of
"tulip leaves", to which I soldered the tulips. The leaves lay flat
and I positioned the tulips so they had some good sturdy solder spots.
I attached small brass rings (jewelry type) on the inside of the
leaves, to attach the fishing line for the chimes. Then I measured the
circular space left between the tubes and made a round "clapper" out
of scrap glass. I also made a single tulip and leaf the size of a
small sun catcher, to be suspended below the pipes, so the wind can
catch it and swing the clapper against the chimes. Both the clapper
and "swinger" (??) are suspended with fishing line from a small ring soldered to the
middle of the upper tulip design.  Phew, this would be so much simpler
if I could send you a drawing..... hope this helps.
I live in the Florida Panhandle, below Tallahassee. Summer gardening
starts in March, we are harvesting squash, cukes, tomatoes and
corn,corn, corn, am done with beans, have put in second and third beds
though, we have a nice long season. Lettuce has bolted - this (and peas,
radishes etc is for the fall (!) and late winter.  We love it here! - But then,
California and Virginia and the rest of the Country is beautiful, too! 
Happy soldering - and if anyone finds some free time - please share it
with me! UrselH 


-- 
e

From owner-glass Wed May 31 17:15:07 1995
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From: at994@yfn.ysu.edu (Karen Margala)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Pricing?
Date: Wed, 31 May 1995 20:14:41 -0400
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Hi Everyone,
	I am looking for people who are in the business of selling
their stained glass projects, whether it's at craft shows, through
consignment, or to individuals. Do you have a formula you apply to
each finished piece? I understand that through experience you learn
what to charge, but I'm just starting out, and would appreciate any
insights.
	Also, I do much of my supply ordering through Warner-Crivellaro,
and it seem lately they're big on backorders. I just received an order I
placed 4/20/95 a couple of days ago, and I have another one still on
backorder from 5/11/95. The items that were out of stock weren't 
unusual <tip tinner and finishing compound>, and I just wondered if
anyone else was experiencing these delays. They do, however, have the
best overall pricing. 
	Thanks in advance for any help offered.
						-Karen

From owner-glass Wed May 31 18:29:23 1995
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From: matmbc90@ix.netcom.com (Matthew J. McDonnell, Jr.)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Pricing? & W-C
Date: Wed, 31 May 1995 18:28:07 -0700
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Karen,
Matt & Terry here. We're still new at this, so we can't be much help in 
pricing. We'll probably wait for others to answer on that.

As far as W-C, we agree, lots of backorders lately.  In fact, we 
recently posted a note because we drove out there looking for 
night-light fixtures.  With shows scheduled for the next two weeks, you 
can only imagine our disappointment when thay had none, and no 
indication of when more will arrive.  (Howard to the rescue, but that's 
another story.)  We guess that having the best prices, they're always 
in high demand.

Suggestion: if you are planning on selling stuff, don't rely on an 
order to come in quickly (Murphy's Law).  Call ahead regarding the 
stuff you absolutely need. We've also had success with Delphi, and we 
understand others will concur.  They're a bit more expensive, but 
sometimes you have to make sacrifces to be ready for a show.

Good luck.

From owner-glass Wed May 31 19:02:36 1995
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From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Pricing?
Date: Wed, 31 May 1995 19:02:47 -0700
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this is Howard... When In doubt, price it high, you can always drop
down, or offer a deal...people will spend a lot of money to get
somthing for nothing. ou need to keep a time clock on your work, 
keep track of material, even if you use ends, and figure what you
want for a living wage. SELL quality and service , not price...there 
is always something cheaper. My lamps SELL for 10 to 15 times more
than the imported stuff, and they do sell to people who can afford
to buy the best.
There have been other suppliers apperaing on the net, and most people
seem pleased with their choices. I deal a little deeper and concentrate
mostly on lamp related stuff. 
If you have specific questions on pricing certain items rather than
stuff in general let me know.
PS this was sorta directed at Karen.
Enjoy

