From owner-glass Tue Apr 4 15:27:37 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0rwH3e-0000bda; Tue, 4 Apr 95 15:26 PDT X-Path: ednet1.osl.or.gov!erubin From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: is anyone home? Date: Tue, 4 Apr 1995 15:27:12 -0700 Message-ID: <199504042227.AA28172@ednet1.osl.or.gov> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk What happened, did I scare everyone off...I only lightly brushed the surface. Enjoy From owner-glass Tue Apr 4 19:15:06 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0rwKb4-0000Wra; Tue, 4 Apr 95 19:13 PDT X-Path: Camosun.BC.CA!COOPERD From: cooperd@Camosun.BC.CA To: glass@bungi.com Subject: scared off!! Date: Tue, 04 Apr 1995 18:46:43 -0800 (PST) Message-ID: <1995Apr4.104643.0@Camosun.BC.CA> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Hi, thanks for saying something, I thought something had happened out there in computer space. I guess everyone is busy with their projects and work, it sometimes interferes with things, I'm lucky here working in the library and always checking my messages, since a lot of communication goes on throught e-mail and we also do inter campus loans through the system. Anyway, I am working on a window oh! say about 2 3/4 by 1 3/4 I find this quite difficult because of all the small pieces, I know all of you professionals have probably done thousands of lamps and things with small pieces but me as an amateur who has only taken a couple of classes find it challenging, anyway I am cutting each piece separately this time which makes it a bit more fun and It's working out fine, what do you think of this. I would like to know what everyone else is doing, sounds like a lot of you are making lamps, I've only make 2. One turned out beautiful, I made in a class of course and the other one which was a mini lamp, well its ok, a little crooked I guess you could say, but ok for my bedroom with a little dim bulb in it. I'm not proud of it as you can tell, anyway I perserve away with classical music and find this hobby quite inspiring. Donna!!!!! From owner-glass Tue Apr 4 20:28:20 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0rwLl1-0000Qwa; Tue, 4 Apr 95 20:27 PDT X-Path: gjr From: gjr@daver.bungi.com (Glenna Rand) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: is anyone home? Date: Tue, 4 Apr 1995 20:27:41 PDT Message-ID: Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk [In the message entitled "is anyone home?" on Apr 4, 15:27, Elaine Lea Rubin writes:] > > What happened, did I scare everyone off...I only lightly brushed > the surface. I'm still here.,..... Glenna -- From owner-glass Tue Apr 4 20:43:44 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0rwLza-0000SJa; Tue, 4 Apr 95 20:42 PDT X-Path: gjr From: gjr@daver.bungi.com (Glenna Rand) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: scared off!! Date: Tue, 4 Apr 1995 20:42:39 PDT Message-ID: Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk [In the message entitled "scared off!!" on Apr 4, 18:46, cooperd@Camosun.BC.CA writes:] > of this. I would like to know what everyone else is doing, sounds like a lot > of you are making lamps, I've only make 2. One turned out beautiful, I > made in a class of course and the other one which was a mini lamp, well its > ok, a little crooked I guess you could say, but ok for my bedroom with a > little dim bulb in it. I'm not proud of it as you can tell, anyway I perserve > away with classical music and find this hobby quite inspiring. Donna!!!!! I have done 2 flat panel type project. Both have turn out very well. For Christmas I did about 10 suncatchers for friend and relatives. I'm am current working on a lamp. I've never had a class yet (Starts May 4) on lamp making, but thought I tackle it anyway. So far so good....I don't get to work on it every day though, so it may be a long process. Glenna -- From owner-glass Wed Apr 5 05:41:08 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0rwUNx-0000M6a; Wed, 5 Apr 95 05:40 PDT X-Path: YaleVM.CIS.Yale.Edu!UCONNVM.UCONN.EDU!HCLADM02 From: Dorothy To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Designs Date: Wed, 05 Apr 95 08:34:40 EDT Message-ID: <950405.083950.EDT.HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk My last couple of designs (about 10"x7") have been athletes...an ice skater and a basketball player. These figures need to be surrounded by background glass, what with the limbs sticking out and all. I found it more nteresting visually (and more economical with the glass) to make the surrounding glass an irregular shape that rather echoes the movement of the figure, than to set them into ovals or rectangles. Dorothy ***Sending from Connecticut, home of National Champion UConn Women Huskies*** From owner-glass Wed Apr 5 07:25:04 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0rwW0d-0000eia; Wed, 5 Apr 95 07:24 PDT X-Path: Wittenberg.EDU!cutler From: cutler@Wittenberg.EDU To: glass@bungi.com Subject: re: scared off Date: Wed, 05 Apr 1995 10:24:29 EDT Message-ID: <1995Apr5.142429.0@Wittenberg.EDU> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Not the least bit scared, Howard; just busy at the moment. I'm remodeling my workshop. Building a new, general-purpose workbench as well as expanding shelf space for a variety of materials, including glass supplies. I'm between projects. Takes a while for the creative juices to ferment, I suppose. AND it's cold in Ohio at the moment, which makes my workshop a bit on the chilly side. I need to improve the heat supply for that room! BUT I do have plenty of time to check e-mail, so if you have more suggestions about lamp construction - I'm especially interested in proper soldering iron temperatures for foil work, for example - I'd be glad to hear your thoughts. And of course,how do you price a lamp - that's always a bit of a mystery. You've said some things about this but I could use some more direction. Thanks again. Your help has been valuable and greatly appreciated out here. Bob Cutler From owner-glass Wed Apr 5 09:22:37 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0rwXqO-0000Oma; Wed, 5 Apr 95 09:22 PDT X-Path: ednet1.osl.or.gov!erubin From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Designs Date: Wed, 5 Apr 1995 09:22:29 -0700 Message-ID: <199504051622.AA11987@ednet1.osl.or.gov> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Howard, here Dorothy, although I do very few windows, and even fewer of them "free-form", when my students insist, I usually try to clean up the design... that is minimize the lead lines(antennae). If you intend to frame a piece, the irregular edges would make it rather difficult, so, a neat trick is to use BLACK glass to square it off. After you black patina the piece, the lead line seems to disappear, and framing is easy. If you are going to hang it without a frame, make sure your hanging hardware is soldered in to the foil joints. Enjoy From owner-glass Wed Apr 5 10:02:25 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0rwYSz-0000XPa; Wed, 5 Apr 95 10:02 PDT X-Path: ednet1.osl.or.gov!erubin From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: re: scared off Date: Wed, 5 Apr 1995 10:02:32 -0700 Message-ID: <199504051702.AA02776@ednet1.osl.or.gov> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Howard 2nd time, Dear Bob, I use an Ungar 1,000 iron for all the rough work ,tacking, tinning. The final beading is done with an 1,100 hp heater also Ungar. I save the corrroded ones for the rough work, and finish with a good tip. Because of the heat, I have a rheostat to control the iron, low when tacking and rough soldering, UP full when doing the final beading. As for pricing, Keep track of the time in production, I use an analog clock with an on and off switch in the line. Set it for 12 when you start, turn off when done(sometimes many times a day) Keep records of glass consumption... measure starting and finish size of the sheet, also solder, cap, base bulb, and any other stuff that you used. Total $ cost, figure labor time( plan on getting faster) Most galleries and stores double their wholesale cost, so compare what you want for the piece and see if it is competitive with what is out there, remember a lot of work comes out of the Orient, and they earn about $2.00 per day. It ain't easy to undersell that! All we can sell is made in USA and quality!!! TO ALL THE LIST>>> I highly recommend signing and numbering your work, keeping track of the patterns for future duplication, and the name of the owner if possible. If you put any work out for sale, keep the prices consistant, and if you sell direct, attempt to get retail for your work, as if someone will buy it in a store for $100.00, why should you not also get $100.00, too. More to come later, if needed. Enjoy From owner-glass Wed Apr 5 10:17:57 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0rwYhl-0000cFa; Wed, 5 Apr 95 10:17 PDT X-Path: ednet1.osl.or.gov!erubin From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: scared off!! Date: Wed, 5 Apr 1995 10:17:43 -0700 Message-ID: <199504051717.AA05563@ednet1.osl.or.gov> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Howard, times 3 Donna, you did not say whether it is feet or inches that you are working with. My crowning window was 1sq ft with about 400 pieces in it. Never again, unless for big bucks. I flooded the e-mail list with "simple" instructions for sizing and technique for panel lamp making, and if you were fortunate enough to miss it, I may still have it in a pfs file, so if you have any desire for the instructions, let me know and I can send it direct. The more you practice ,the better you get! Do not be afraid to be your own harshest critic. Enjoy From owner-glass Wed Apr 5 10:21:38 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0rwYlV-0000iWa; Wed, 5 Apr 95 10:21 PDT X-Path: ednet1.osl.or.gov!erubin From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: is anyone home? Date: Wed, 5 Apr 1995 10:21:36 -0700 Message-ID: <199504051721.AA06457@ednet1.osl.or.gov> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Howard, times 4 but who is counting Hello Glenna Enjoy From owner-glass Wed Apr 5 11:14:31 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0rwZaj-0000jga; Wed, 5 Apr 95 11:14 PDT X-Path: YaleVM.CIS.Yale.Edu!UCONNVM.UCONN.EDU!HCLADM02 From: HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Designs Date: Wed, 05 Apr 95 14:11:07 EDT Message-ID: <950405.141315.EDT.HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu> References: <<199504051622.AA11987@ednet1.osl.or.gov>> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk These pieces are not intended to be framed...they are sort of oversized suncatchers..and I've been doing this for years. I hope most of my hanging problems are over. Part of my design work is to always create good place(s) to anchor my hanging loops. Dorothy From owner-glass Wed Apr 5 14:19:07 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0rwcTR-0000aJa; Wed, 5 Apr 95 14:18 PDT X-Path: ednet1.osl.or.gov!erubin From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Designs Date: Wed, 5 Apr 1995 14:19:14 -0700 Message-ID: <199504052119.AA14074@ednet1.osl.or.gov> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk HOward, here... Dorothy, thanks for the clarification on the purpose of the free form pieces...after many years, you must be pretty good at 'em. Do you sell them or what. enjoy From owner-glass Thu Apr 6 03:20:16 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0rwoey-0000Ena; Thu, 6 Apr 95 03:19 PDT X-Path: cps201.cps.cmich.edu!eiszler From: Sue Eiszler To: glass@bungi.com Subject: mirrors Date: Thu, 6 Apr 1995 06:19:12 -0400 (EDT) Message-ID: <1995Apr6.21912.0@cps.cmich.edu> References: <<950405.083950.EDT.HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu>> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Hi all, A friend has asked me to make a mirrored candle holder for her. I've never worked with mirrors before so would appreciate some tips (lead came is my thing). I know that there is some kind of spray to use on the edges, but does it work? What else can I do to avoid the destruction of the silvering? Thanks in advance. Sue eiszler@cps.cmich.edu From owner-glass Thu Apr 6 05:33:18 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0rwqkB-0000Rpa; Thu, 6 Apr 95 05:33 PDT X-Path: YaleVM.CIS.Yale.Edu!UCONNVM.UCONN.EDU!HCLADM02 From: Dorothy Kalahan To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Designs Date: Thu, 06 Apr 95 08:24:05 EDT Message-ID: <950406.083218.EDT.HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu> References: <<199504052119.AA14074@ednet1.osl.or.gov>> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Hi, Howard et al I sell. I must confess, I am not terribly interested in lamps, so was trying to get another conversation started. I like to do my own designs. As far as the basketball player goes, I made a big mistake. I made a male player. Should have done a female player...around here, the lady Huskies (NCAA champions) are so hot, Sports Illustrated did a special regional issue. Maybe by next year. This is a craft fair type business right now and I have only so much time with my full time job and my evening teaching. Dorothy From owner-glass Thu Apr 6 14:45:48 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0rwzMC-0000Aua; Thu, 6 Apr 95 14:44 PDT X-Path: ednet1.osl.or.gov!erubin From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Designs Date: Thu, 6 Apr 1995 14:38:12 -0700 Message-ID: <199504062138.AA19860@ednet1.osl.or.gov> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk howard, here... It is all for sale...one can only have just so much stuff around. The gifts I give are non-glass objects that I have traded my glass work for. My warped ideas( can not spell philosophy) is that if I give my own work away, it has no monetary value. One of my second favorite phrases is "I wii pay for it or the materials if it is NOT too much money". I have made a decision not to have my family try to keep me in business. It works! Enjoy From owner-glass Sun Apr 9 13:29:27 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0ry3bE-00002Na; Sun, 9 Apr 95 13:28 PDT X-Path: mail.prodigy.com!MPGP79B From: MPGP79B@prodigy.com (PEGGY M PALM) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: mirrors Date: Sun, 09 Apr 1995 15:52:06 EDT Message-ID: <013.05311685.MPGP79B@prodigy.com> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk -- [ From: Peggy Palm * EMC.Ver #2.10P ] -- Hi Sue - I guess I was waiting for some of the more experienced folks out there to answer you with regard to mirrors. I want to do a mirror project also, but haven't gotten down that far on my list yet! I did ask about the general do's and don'ts in the class I took, and even wrote down the advice, which I'll be glad to share. I haven't actually tried any of this yet, so anyone out there should feel free to chime in... 1. Before doing anything else, protect the silvering on the back of the mirror by coating it with clear polyurethane or a spray-on mirror sealant sold for the purpose. Let it dry. 2. When cutting, cut with the right (reflective) side up, since the back is covered with polyurethane and would not score well (to say nothing of what it does to the cutter). Keeping a sheet of plain paper under the mirror when cutting lets you shake off glass crumbs easily after EVERY cut, to keep from scratching the silvering. 3. To grind, hold the piece wrong side up (reflection down, coating up) OR cover the grinder platform with a newspaper base and grind right (reflection) side up. 4. The very minute you have finished grinding, coat the mirror edges with a mirror sealant to keep flux off and black spots away. 5. If possible, use foil backed in the same color you plan to use for patina, especially if planning black patina. It isn''t as noticeable or distracting when reflected in the mirror. 6. Using organic flux (#30 Superior was mentioned) helps to avoid the dreaded black spots over time. Hope it helps! Let us know how it turns out. Peggy From owner-glass Sun Apr 9 18:28:57 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0ry8HL-0000Qra; Sun, 9 Apr 95 18:28 PDT X-Path: cris.com!mycrump From: mycrump@cris.com (Daryl P. Dacko) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: unsubscribe Date: Sun, 9 Apr 95 21:27:53 EDT Message-ID: <9504100127.AA23629@cris.com> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk unsubscribe From owner-glass Wed Apr 12 19:36:08 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0rzEjb-0000PIa; Wed, 12 Apr 95 19:34 PDT X-Path: Camosun.BC.CA!COOPERD From: cooperd@Camosun.BC.CA To: GLASS@BUNGI.COM Subject: PANEL OF MANY PIECES Date: Wed, 12 Apr 1995 19:31:47 -0800 (PST) Message-ID: <1995Apr12.113147.0> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Sorry, Howard I got so busy with everything I forget to reply to you. The panel which I said had so many pieces is in feet otherwise it would have been an awfully small window anyway my original question was " is it ok to cut one piece at a time rather than cut out the whole pattern first." I am doing it this way for a try it's not bad, but of course it's taking forever to finish. Yes, thanks I did receive your instructions for the panel lampmaking. Donna!!! From owner-glass Wed Apr 12 22:47:57 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0rzHji-000039a; Wed, 12 Apr 95 22:46 PDT X-Path: ednet1.osl.or.gov!erubin From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: PANEL OF MANY PIECES Date: Wed, 12 Apr 1995 22:47:06 -0700 Message-ID: <199504130547.AA11850@ednet1.osl.or.gov> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Hi Donna, When you get to "my age" it is easy to forget, as I do not remember your question. IMHO I feel that cutting one pattern piece at a time is fine as they are easy to keep track of. The few windows I have done, I usually have blocked off in sections, and cut the background as a solid block and then cut away what was to replaced with other glass, this uses up extra background, but tends to allow for more accurate lines and fitting. The windows I am referring to were blocked off like a tic-tac-toe board with many curves changing colors under the zinc came. A lot of words to answer your question. Enjoy...Howard From owner-glass Fri Apr 14 13:33:52 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0rzs2y-0000HYa; Fri, 14 Apr 95 13:32 PDT X-Path: cicerone.uunet.ca!idirect.com!mrum From: mrum@idirect.com (mike & carol) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Gatewayed mail message Date: Fri, 14 Apr 1995 16:38:12 -0400 Message-ID: <199504142038.QAA08324@lucid.idirect.com> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk subscribe mrum@idirect.com From owner-glass Fri Apr 14 15:06:07 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0rztUi-0000LMa; Fri, 14 Apr 95 15:05 PDT X-Path: mail.prodigy.com!MPGP79B From: MPGP79B@prodigy.com (PEGGY M PALM) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Where is everyone? Date: Fri, 14 Apr 1995 17:24:08 EDT Message-ID: <013.05496631.MPGP79B@prodigy.com> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk -- [ From: Peggy Palm * EMC.Ver #2.10P ] -- Well, folks, is everyone really busy, or do we just need some new topics? I haven't had time to do more than gaze longingly at my worktable as I pass by lately. Too much to do at work -- some of the neglected paperwork has been coming home with me, leaving little time for hobbies, but I hope to end that trend soon! For lack of any "real" glass topic at the moment, I thought I'd send along an item that showed up on a crafts bulletin board in Prodigy. I didn't remember to get the name of the originator, so I can't give credit where it is due, but I thought some of you might enjoy.... Murphy's Laws for Glass Workers Murphy's Original Law: Anything that can go wrong, will. Solder Law: Hot solder looks exactly like cold solder. Breakage Law I: The number of bad breaks you get is directly proportional to the price of the glass. Breakage Law II: The number of bad breaks is in inverse proportion to the amount of glass on hand. Breakage Law III: The number of bad breaks is directly proportional to the distance from your supplier. Replacement Law: The moment you replace a lost tool with a new one, you will find the original. Installation Law I: The time required to install is directly proportional to the number of people watching. Installation Law II: The one tool you desperately need is back at the studio. Law of Studio Geometry: Any horizontal surface attracts clutter. At the most difficult point in the construction of any project, the phone will ring. The moment your hands touch lead, flux, or patina, extreme hunger pangs will commence. Everyone knows someone who does glass.....cheaper. One lead joint will always be unsoldered. There is no such thing as a clean stained glass window. You can always find a spot after you've installed it! The number of people you didn't know were listening is directly proportional to the severity of the swear word used. From owner-glass Fri Apr 14 15:06:51 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0rztVN-0000OBa; Fri, 14 Apr 95 15:06 PDT X-Path: gjr From: gjr@daver.bungi.com (Glenna Rand) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Gatewayed mail message Date: Fri, 14 Apr 1995 15:06:07 PDT Message-ID: Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk A[In the message entitled "Gatewayed mail message" on Apr 14, 16:38, mike & carol writes:] > subscribe mrum@idirect.com > You're now on the mailing list. Anything you wish to submit should be mailed to glass@bungi.com I have included this months' back issues. >From owner-glass Tue Apr 4 15:27:37 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0rwH3e-0000bda; Tue, 4 Apr 95 15:26 PDT X-Path: ednet1.osl.or.gov!erubin From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: is anyone home? Date: Tue, 4 Apr 1995 15:27:12 -0700 Message-ID: <199504042227.AA28172@ednet1.osl.or.gov> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk What happened, did I scare everyone off...I only lightly brushed the surface. Enjoy >From owner-glass Tue Apr 4 19:15:06 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0rwKb4-0000Wra; Tue, 4 Apr 95 19:13 PDT X-Path: Camosun.BC.CA!COOPERD From: cooperd@Camosun.BC.CA To: glass@bungi.com Subject: scared off!! Date: Tue, 04 Apr 1995 18:46:43 -0800 (PST) Message-ID: <1995Apr4.104643.0@Camosun.BC.CA> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Hi, thanks for saying something, I thought something had happened out there in computer space. I guess everyone is busy with their projects and work, it sometimes interferes with things, I'm lucky here working in the library and always checking my messages, since a lot of communication goes on throught e-mail and we also do inter campus loans through the system. Anyway, I am working on a window oh! say about 2 3/4 by 1 3/4 I find this quite difficult because of all the small pieces, I know all of you professionals have probably done thousands of lamps and things with small pieces but me as an amateur who has only taken a couple of classes find it challenging, anyway I am cutting each piece separately this time which makes it a bit more fun and It's working out fine, what do you think of this. I would like to know what everyone else is doing, sounds like a lot of you are making lamps, I've only make 2. One turned out beautiful, I made in a class of course and the other one which was a mini lamp, well its ok, a little crooked I guess you could say, but ok for my bedroom with a little dim bulb in it. I'm not proud of it as you can tell, anyway I perserve away with classical music and find this hobby quite inspiring. Donna!!!!! >From owner-glass Tue Apr 4 20:28:20 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0rwLl1-0000Qwa; Tue, 4 Apr 95 20:27 PDT X-Path: gjr From: gjr@daver.bungi.com (Glenna Rand) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: is anyone home? Date: Tue, 4 Apr 1995 20:27:41 PDT Message-ID: Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk [In the message entitled "is anyone home?" on Apr 4, 15:27, Elaine Lea Rubin writes:] > > What happened, did I scare everyone off...I only lightly brushed > the surface. I'm still here.,..... Glenna -- >From owner-glass Tue Apr 4 20:43:44 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0rwLza-0000SJa; Tue, 4 Apr 95 20:42 PDT X-Path: gjr From: gjr@daver.bungi.com (Glenna Rand) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: scared off!! Date: Tue, 4 Apr 1995 20:42:39 PDT Message-ID: Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk [In the message entitled "scared off!!" on Apr 4, 18:46, cooperd@Camosun.BC.CA writes:] > of this. I would like to know what everyone else is doing, sounds like a lot > of you are making lamps, I've only make 2. One turned out beautiful, I > made in a class of course and the other one which was a mini lamp, well its > ok, a little crooked I guess you could say, but ok for my bedroom with a > little dim bulb in it. I'm not proud of it as you can tell, anyway I perserve > away with classical music and find this hobby quite inspiring. Donna!!!!! I have done 2 flat panel type project. Both have turn out very well. For Christmas I did about 10 suncatchers for friend and relatives. I'm am current working on a lamp. I've never had a class yet (Starts May 4) on lamp making, but thought I tackle it anyway. So far so good....I don't get to work on it every day though, so it may be a long process. Glenna -- >From owner-glass Wed Apr 5 05:41:08 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0rwUNx-0000M6a; Wed, 5 Apr 95 05:40 PDT X-Path: YaleVM.CIS.Yale.Edu!UCONNVM.UCONN.EDU!HCLADM02 From: Dorothy To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Designs Date: Wed, 05 Apr 95 08:34:40 EDT Message-ID: <950405.083950.EDT.HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk My last couple of designs (about 10"x7") have been athletes...an ice skater and a basketball player. These figures need to be surrounded by background glass, what with the limbs sticking out and all. I found it more nteresting visually (and more economical with the glass) to make the surrounding glass an irregular shape that rather echoes the movement of the figure, than to set them into ovals or rectangles. Dorothy ***Sending from Connecticut, home of National Champion UConn Women Huskies*** >From owner-glass Wed Apr 5 07:25:04 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0rwW0d-0000eia; Wed, 5 Apr 95 07:24 PDT X-Path: Wittenberg.EDU!cutler From: cutler@Wittenberg.EDU To: glass@bungi.com Subject: re: scared off Date: Wed, 05 Apr 1995 10:24:29 EDT Message-ID: <1995Apr5.142429.0@Wittenberg.EDU> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Not the least bit scared, Howard; just busy at the moment. I'm remodeling my workshop. Building a new, general-purpose workbench as well as expanding shelf space for a variety of materials, including glass supplies. I'm between projects. Takes a while for the creative juices to ferment, I suppose. AND it's cold in Ohio at the moment, which makes my workshop a bit on the chilly side. I need to improve the heat supply for that room! BUT I do have plenty of time to check e-mail, so if you have more suggestions about lamp construction - I'm especially interested in proper soldering iron temperatures for foil work, for example - I'd be glad to hear your thoughts. And of course,how do you price a lamp - that's always a bit of a mystery. You've said some things about this but I could use some more direction. Thanks again. Your help has been valuable and greatly appreciated out here. Bob Cutler >From owner-glass Wed Apr 5 09:22:37 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0rwXqO-0000Oma; Wed, 5 Apr 95 09:22 PDT X-Path: ednet1.osl.or.gov!erubin From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Designs Date: Wed, 5 Apr 1995 09:22:29 -0700 Message-ID: <199504051622.AA11987@ednet1.osl.or.gov> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Howard, here Dorothy, although I do very few windows, and even fewer of them "free-form", when my students insist, I usually try to clean up the design... that is minimize the lead lines(antennae). If you intend to frame a piece, the irregular edges would make it rather difficult, so, a neat trick is to use BLACK glass to square it off. After you black patina the piece, the lead line seems to disappear, and framing is easy. If you are going to hang it without a frame, make sure your hanging hardware is soldered in to the foil joints. Enjoy >From owner-glass Wed Apr 5 10:02:25 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0rwYSz-0000XPa; Wed, 5 Apr 95 10:02 PDT X-Path: ednet1.osl.or.gov!erubin From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: re: scared off Date: Wed, 5 Apr 1995 10:02:32 -0700 Message-ID: <199504051702.AA02776@ednet1.osl.or.gov> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Howard 2nd time, Dear Bob, I use an Ungar 1,000 iron for all the rough work ,tacking, tinning. The final beading is done with an 1,100 hp heater also Ungar. I save the corrroded ones for the rough work, and finish with a good tip. Because of the heat, I have a rheostat to control the iron, low when tacking and rough soldering, UP full when doing the final beading. As for pricing, Keep track of the time in production, I use an analog clock with an on and off switch in the line. Set it for 12 when you start, turn off when done(sometimes many times a day) Keep records of glass consumption... measure starting and finish size of the sheet, also solder, cap, base bulb, and any other stuff that you used. Total $ cost, figure labor time( plan on getting faster) Most galleries and stores double their wholesale cost, so compare what you want for the piece and see if it is competitive with what is out there, remember a lot of work comes out of the Orient, and they earn about $2.00 per day. It ain't easy to undersell that! All we can sell is made in USA and quality!!! TO ALL THE LIST>>> I highly recommend signing and numbering your work, keeping track of the patterns for future duplication, and the name of the owner if possible. If you put any work out for sale, keep the prices consistant, and if you sell direct, attempt to get retail for your work, as if someone will buy it in a store for $100.00, why should you not also get $100.00, too. More to come later, if needed. Enjoy >From owner-glass Wed Apr 5 10:17:57 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0rwYhl-0000cFa; Wed, 5 Apr 95 10:17 PDT X-Path: ednet1.osl.or.gov!erubin From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: scared off!! Date: Wed, 5 Apr 1995 10:17:43 -0700 Message-ID: <199504051717.AA05563@ednet1.osl.or.gov> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Howard, times 3 Donna, you did not say whether it is feet or inches that you are working with. My crowning window was 1sq ft with about 400 pieces in it. Never again, unless for big bucks. I flooded the e-mail list with "simple" instructions for sizing and technique for panel lamp making, and if you were fortunate enough to miss it, I may still have it in a pfs file, so if you have any desire for the instructions, let me know and I can send it direct. The more you practice ,the better you get! Do not be afraid to be your own harshest critic. Enjoy >From owner-glass Wed Apr 5 10:21:38 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0rwYlV-0000iWa; Wed, 5 Apr 95 10:21 PDT X-Path: ednet1.osl.or.gov!erubin From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: is anyone home? Date: Wed, 5 Apr 1995 10:21:36 -0700 Message-ID: <199504051721.AA06457@ednet1.osl.or.gov> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Howard, times 4 but who is counting Hello Glenna Enjoy >From owner-glass Wed Apr 5 11:14:31 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0rwZaj-0000jga; Wed, 5 Apr 95 11:14 PDT X-Path: YaleVM.CIS.Yale.Edu!UCONNVM.UCONN.EDU!HCLADM02 From: HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Designs Date: Wed, 05 Apr 95 14:11:07 EDT Message-ID: <950405.141315.EDT.HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu> References: <<199504051622.AA11987@ednet1.osl.or.gov>> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk These pieces are not intended to be framed...they are sort of oversized suncatchers..and I've been doing this for years. I hope most of my hanging problems are over. Part of my design work is to always create good place(s) to anchor my hanging loops. Dorothy >From owner-glass Wed Apr 5 14:19:07 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0rwcTR-0000aJa; Wed, 5 Apr 95 14:18 PDT X-Path: ednet1.osl.or.gov!erubin From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Designs Date: Wed, 5 Apr 1995 14:19:14 -0700 Message-ID: <199504052119.AA14074@ednet1.osl.or.gov> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk HOward, here... Dorothy, thanks for the clarification on the purpose of the free form pieces...after many years, you must be pretty good at 'em. Do you sell them or what. enjoy >From owner-glass Thu Apr 6 03:20:16 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0rwoey-0000Ena; Thu, 6 Apr 95 03:19 PDT X-Path: cps201.cps.cmich.edu!eiszler From: Sue Eiszler To: glass@bungi.com Subject: mirrors Date: Thu, 6 Apr 1995 06:19:12 -0400 (EDT) Message-ID: <1995Apr6.21912.0@cps.cmich.edu> References: <<950405.083950.EDT.HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu>> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Hi all, A friend has asked me to make a mirrored candle holder for her. I've never worked with mirrors before so would appreciate some tips (lead came is my thing). I know that there is some kind of spray to use on the edges, but does it work? What else can I do to avoid the destruction of the silvering? Thanks in advance. Sue eiszler@cps.cmich.edu >From owner-glass Thu Apr 6 05:33:18 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0rwqkB-0000Rpa; Thu, 6 Apr 95 05:33 PDT X-Path: YaleVM.CIS.Yale.Edu!UCONNVM.UCONN.EDU!HCLADM02 From: Dorothy Kalahan To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Designs Date: Thu, 06 Apr 95 08:24:05 EDT Message-ID: <950406.083218.EDT.HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu> References: <<199504052119.AA14074@ednet1.osl.or.gov>> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Hi, Howard et al I sell. I must confess, I am not terribly interested in lamps, so was trying to get another conversation started. I like to do my own designs. As far as the basketball player goes, I made a big mistake. I made a male player. Should have done a female player...around here, the lady Huskies (NCAA champions) are so hot, Sports Illustrated did a special regional issue. Maybe by next year. This is a craft fair type business right now and I have only so much time with my full time job and my evening teaching. Dorothy >From owner-glass Thu Apr 6 14:45:48 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0rwzMC-0000Aua; Thu, 6 Apr 95 14:44 PDT X-Path: ednet1.osl.or.gov!erubin From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Designs Date: Thu, 6 Apr 1995 14:38:12 -0700 Message-ID: <199504062138.AA19860@ednet1.osl.or.gov> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk howard, here... It is all for sale...one can only have just so much stuff around. The gifts I give are non-glass objects that I have traded my glass work for. My warped ideas( can not spell philosophy) is that if I give my own work away, it has no monetary value. One of my second favorite phrases is "I wii pay for it or the materials if it is NOT too much money". I have made a decision not to have my family try to keep me in business. It works! Enjoy >From owner-glass Sun Apr 9 13:29:27 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0ry3bE-00002Na; Sun, 9 Apr 95 13:28 PDT X-Path: mail.prodigy.com!MPGP79B From: MPGP79B@prodigy.com (PEGGY M PALM) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: mirrors Date: Sun, 09 Apr 1995 15:52:06 EDT Message-ID: <013.05311685.MPGP79B@prodigy.com> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk -- [ From: Peggy Palm * EMC.Ver #2.10P ] -- Hi Sue - I guess I was waiting for some of the more experienced folks out there to answer you with regard to mirrors. I want to do a mirror project also, but haven't gotten down that far on my list yet! I did ask about the general do's and don'ts in the class I took, and even wrote down the advice, which I'll be glad to share. I haven't actually tried any of this yet, so anyone out there should feel free to chime in... 1. Before doing anything else, protect the silvering on the back of the mirror by coating it with clear polyurethane or a spray-on mirror sealant sold for the purpose. Let it dry. 2. When cutting, cut with the right (reflective) side up, since the back is covered with polyurethane and would not score well (to say nothing of what it does to the cutter). Keeping a sheet of plain paper under the mirror when cutting lets you shake off glass crumbs easily after EVERY cut, to keep from scratching the silvering. 3. To grind, hold the piece wrong side up (reflection down, coating up) OR cover the grinder platform with a newspaper base and grind right (reflection) side up. 4. The very minute you have finished grinding, coat the mirror edges with a mirror sealant to keep flux off and black spots away. 5. If possible, use foil backed in the same color you plan to use for patina, especially if planning black patina. It isn''t as noticeable or distracting when reflected in the mirror. 6. Using organic flux (#30 Superior was mentioned) helps to avoid the dreaded black spots over time. Hope it helps! Let us know how it turns out. Peggy >From owner-glass Sun Apr 9 18:28:57 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0ry8HL-0000Qra; Sun, 9 Apr 95 18:28 PDT X-Path: cris.com!mycrump From: mycrump@cris.com (Daryl P. Dacko) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: unsubscribe Date: Sun, 9 Apr 95 21:27:53 EDT Message-ID: <9504100127.AA23629@cris.com> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk unsubscribe >From owner-glass Wed Apr 12 19:36:08 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0rzEjb-0000PIa; Wed, 12 Apr 95 19:34 PDT X-Path: Camosun.BC.CA!COOPERD From: cooperd@Camosun.BC.CA To: GLASS@BUNGI.COM Subject: PANEL OF MANY PIECES Date: Wed, 12 Apr 1995 19:31:47 -0800 (PST) Message-ID: <1995Apr12.113147.0> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Sorry, Howard I got so busy with everything I forget to reply to you. The panel which I said had so many pieces is in feet otherwise it would have been an awfully small window anyway my original question was " is it ok to cut one piece at a time rather than cut out the whole pattern first." I am doing it this way for a try it's not bad, but of course it's taking forever to finish. Yes, thanks I did receive your instructions for the panel lampmaking. Donna!!! >From owner-glass Wed Apr 12 22:47:57 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0rzHji-000039a; Wed, 12 Apr 95 22:46 PDT X-Path: ednet1.osl.or.gov!erubin From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: PANEL OF MANY PIECES Date: Wed, 12 Apr 1995 22:47:06 -0700 Message-ID: <199504130547.AA11850@ednet1.osl.or.gov> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Hi Donna, When you get to "my age" it is easy to forget, as I do not remember your question. IMHO I feel that cutting one pattern piece at a time is fine as they are easy to keep track of. The few windows I have done, I usually have blocked off in sections, and cut the background as a solid block and then cut away what was to replaced with other glass, this uses up extra background, but tends to allow for more accurate lines and fitting. The windows I am referring to were blocked off like a tic-tac-toe board with many curves changing colors under the zinc came. A lot of words to answer your question. Enjoy...Howard >From owner-glass Fri Apr 14 13:33:52 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0rzs2y-0000HYa; Fri, 14 Apr 95 13:32 PDT X-Path: cicerone.uunet.ca!idirect.com!mrum From: mrum@idirect.com (mike & carol) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Gatewayed mail message Date: Fri, 14 Apr 1995 16:38:12 -0400 Message-ID: <199504142038.QAA08324@lucid.idirect.com> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk subscribe mrum@idirect.com -- From owner-glass Fri Apr 14 16:01:26 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0rzuMP-0000Gma; Fri, 14 Apr 95 16:01 PDT X-Path: ednet1.osl.or.gov!erubin From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Where is everyone? Date: Fri, 14 Apr 1995 16:01:35 -0700 Message-ID: <199504142301.AA12579@ednet1.osl.or.gov> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Howard here... Without any specific questions to answer, I have very little say that would be worth reading...My classes have entered the third week and the beginning students have become fairly proficient in breaking glass. They have yet to do any serious soldering. Most of them have a small panel lamp ready to pull up into the cone shape. The thought for a while is... Time flies like lightning, fruit flies like banannas. Enjoy From owner-glass Mon Apr 17 05:46:08 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0s0qAu-0000bra; Mon, 17 Apr 95 05:45 PDT X-Path: YaleVM.CIS.Yale.Edu!UCONNVM.UCONN.EDU!HCLADM02 From: Dorothy Kalahan To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Inclusions Date: Mon, 17 Apr 95 08:39:50 EDT Message-ID: <950417.084405.EDT.HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Okay, here's a topic...how many people try (and how many succeed) at including things other than stained glass in stained glass pieces. I've seen shells (they are so porous, they must be coated with something, I guess). Last I tried, I bought a resin cameo from a craft shop and set it into a business card holder. I was EXTREMELY careful to keep flux on the foil only, soldered quickly, also patined carefully. It looks quite elegant. (Ah-ha I may be onto something.) Dorothy From owner-glass Mon Apr 17 15:44:36 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0s0zWV-0000OLa; Mon, 17 Apr 95 15:44 PDT X-Path: ednet1.osl.or.gov!erubin From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Inclusions Date: Mon, 17 Apr 1995 15:44:34 -0700 Message-ID: <199504172244.AA13448@ednet1.osl.or.gov> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk This is Howard... In a moment of weakness along time ago, I purchased some half Nautilus shells. There were a couple of others putting them in hexagons and using them for window hangers. I cut a fan shape and used a shell fan lamp base for the lightsource. They sold well, and were easy to make. The Nautilus shell is practically impossible to destroy with solder, flux or patina, and comes either natural or polished. I also have used agate slabs in panel lamps, and by commission have hung crystals and pendants in panel lamps. I have a buddy who makes millifiori fish in ovals, and we have jointly put out work in lamp shades. Another very traditional useage are turtle backs(glass) and can go in a variety of projects. Anything you can shape, foil, and will not melt with solder can probably be used. Because I do mainly lamps, I look for trans- lucent qualities.If you have any specific questions ask away. enjoy! From owner-glass Mon Apr 17 19:18:11 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0s12rR-0000gya; Mon, 17 Apr 95 19:17 PDT X-Path: nbnet.nb.ca!chaseway From: wayne chase To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Solder...Uggggh!!! Summary: NB*net - New Brunswick's Regional Network 1-800-561-4459 Date: Mon, 17 Apr 1995 23:14:20 AST Message-ID: <9517231420.C2F3> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Hi Howard, Just a quick inquiry.....When it comes to solder, I still have some rough spots. Here are a couple of quick questions. When I finish a curved piece sich as a dome style lamp, my solder seems to look and feel like a porcupine. Flat pieces are better. Why am I getting these "points" in my soldering? Also, how high should the bead of solder be above the glass? Is there a height by definition? Anyway, I would appreciate any comments you might have. I have not been doing much glass for the past couple of months as I have just completed an exhibit of classic black and white portraiture, and was gearing up to the opening night private showing and reception. It went very well, and now I need a break and change of pace from the darkroom for a while, so the glass is calling to my inner interest. Have a good day, Wayne chaseway@nbnet.nb.ca From owner-glass Mon Apr 17 21:49:04 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0s15DG-0000aza; Mon, 17 Apr 95 21:48 PDT X-Path: ednet1.osl.or.gov!erubin From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Solder...Uggggh!!! Date: Mon, 17 Apr 1995 21:48:44 -0700 Message-ID: <199504180448.AA20086@ednet1.osl.or.gov> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Howard. here Wayne, a few suggestions and observations: The points are probably from picking up the iron as you near a joint that is already soldered. Not knowing what iron you are using, I could also suggest a hotter iron, again I finish soldering with an 1,100 degree Ungar at full heat. When you solder make sure the iron down on the foil, too. If the tip is floating on the surface, it will tend to leave peaks in the solder. I use 50/50 solder. Make sure you melt the joints as you cross them ,as they take more heat to run together. As per the height of the bead, it is set by the width of the foil and how carefully you fit the pieces before foiling and tacking. Any gaps will fill with solder, and cause uneven looking beads. I do not think a properly fit lamp can take too much solder. I use a lot of Yogo stipple glass, and generally use 3/16 foil on it. You can not raise a bead past a certain point(I have no reference point) without it running out on the glass. Make sure the lamp is level when soldering, as gravity will pull a bead before it is set, and cause it to have waves. Soldering takes a lot of practice and the mechanics are hard to articulate on a screen. I use Glass Star Flux as I like the powerit has to not burn off on the first pass with the iron. I also either use a respirator or turn on the exhaust system when I am soldering. I personally feel that the organic flux (Laco) does not solder or last well enough to use. It seems to corrode while I am working. Hpoe some of this makes sense and works for you. Enjoy From owner-glass Tue Apr 18 09:39:47 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0s1GIk-00002Aa; Tue, 18 Apr 95 09:38 PDT X-Path: gjr From: gjr@daver.bungi.com (Glenna Rand) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Copper foil Size Date: Tue, 18 Apr 1995 09:38:53 PDT Message-ID: Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Hi, I am currently ready to foil my lamp (as seen in "Easy to Make Stained Glass Lampshades" by Ed Sibbett, Jr. - Plate 18) I am interested in some advice as to what size of copperfoil to use. So far one person suggested I use 7/32 for the largest piece. Then the rest in 3/16. Then once the inside is soldered,..to re-foil the outside of each panel before assembly. Any other suggestions? Glenna -- From owner-glass Tue Apr 18 17:15:35 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0s1NQ5-0000aca; Tue, 18 Apr 95 17:15 PDT X-Path: ednet1.osl.or.gov!erubin From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Copper foil Size Date: Tue, 18 Apr 1995 17:15:26 -0700 Message-ID: <199504190015.AA06755@ednet1.osl.or.gov> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk this is Howard... Why make more work and complicate the project? If the glass is 1/8" thick, such as Spectrum, use 7/32 foil all around thr project. If the glass is thinner than 1/8, use 3/16 foil. DO NOT start and end on an exposed edge, that is one without another piece of glass soldered to it. Assemble each panel in a jig making sure abutting pieces line up with a reference mark on the jig. That should keep you busy for a few minutes. When in doubt...ask. Enjoy From owner-glass Tue Apr 18 17:20:48 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0s1NVO-0000cna; Tue, 18 Apr 95 17:20 PDT X-Path: ednet1.osl.or.gov!erubin From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Solder...Uggggh!!! Date: Tue, 18 Apr 1995 17:20:53 -0700 Message-ID: <199504190020.AA07973@ednet1.osl.or.gov> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Hi Wayne... A follow up to the solder tome, I am interested in what you do as a photographer and how and what you show and where and anything else you have the time to discuss. If you want to keep it somewhat personal, e-mail to me direct, rather than to the list. Hope the solder hints worked. enjoy From owner-glass Wed Apr 19 00:10:29 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0s1Tth-0000CRa; Wed, 19 Apr 95 00:10 PDT X-Path: primenet.com!burtman From: burtman@PrimeNet.Com (Burt Eastburn) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: First lamp-how does one tin the cap? Date: Wed, 19 Apr 1995 00:09:43 -0700 Message-ID: <199504190709.AAA13765@mailhost.primenet.com> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Found a nice brass cap for my first lamp, have been told that I should tin the brass cap. Can anyone give me some insight on the best way to do this? Thanks Lorley-significant other to Burtman my mail(male) host. From owner-glass Wed Apr 19 09:52:01 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0s1cxU-0000EFa; Wed, 19 Apr 95 09:50 PDT X-Path: ednet1.osl.or.gov!erubin From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: First lamp-how does one tin the cap? Date: Wed, 19 Apr 1995 09:50:26 -0700 Message-ID: <199504191650.AA19756@ednet1.osl.or.gov> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Howard, here Lorley, my first question is , why tin it? If the brass is clean you should be able to patina it after it is done. By carefully fluxing the lower lip of the cap, and putting a small dab of solder on it and letting gravity pull it down onto the foil as well. I solder the cap firmly onto the glass from the inside. Make sure you level the workbench as well as checking for level before installing the cap. I use a piece of welding rod bent at a right angle for pushing out any panels that are not touching the cap prior to soldering. If you still decide or must tin it, flux it well, heat it with a propane torch(use pliers to hold it) then lightly tin with solder and run it with a hot iron. If you do not tin the cap and touch it with some solder that sticks, DO NOT try to remove with the iron. Scrape or file it off. Do not hesitate to ask for clarification on any phase of it. Enjoy From owner-glass Wed Apr 19 13:21:28 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0s1gFK-0000Oxa; Wed, 19 Apr 95 13:21 PDT X-Path: gjr From: gjr@daver.bungi.com (Glenna Rand) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Copper foil Size Date: Wed, 19 Apr 1995 13:21:05 PDT Message-ID: Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk [In the message entitled "Re: Copper foil Size" on Apr 18, 17:15, Elaine Lea Rubin writes:] > > this is Howard... > Why make more work and complicate the project? > If the glass is 1/8" thick, such as Spectrum, use 7/32 foil > all around thr project. If the glass is thinner than 1/8, use > 3/16 foil. DO NOT start and end on an exposed edge, that is one > without another piece of glass soldered to it. Assemble each panel > in a jig making sure abutting pieces line up with a reference > mark on the jig. That should keep you busy for a few minutes. If I have already done several pieces with the 3/16 would you recommend that I start over. The reason this guy told me to use to 3/16 is that it would more delicate looking. I'm worried now that it may be too delicate..?? As for making a jig,..any hints??? especially being that the bottom is rounded (with jewel) Glenna -- From owner-glass Wed Apr 19 17:26:37 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0s1jtu-0000Zxa; Wed, 19 Apr 95 17:15 PDT X-Path: ednet1.osl.or.gov!erubin From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Copper foil Size Date: Wed, 19 Apr 1995 16:55:50 -0700 Message-ID: <199504192355.AA16104@ednet1.osl.or.gov> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Howard, again... Glenna, with only a few foiled, and I assume you mean pieces, not complete panels, Isee no reason to re-foil them. I stongly urge you to make sure the outter pieces are 7/32 foil. If the glass is a little thinner on inner pieces, 3/16 is ok. To make an easy assembly jig, first photo copy the pattern, laminate it with clear shelf contact paper, place on shelf type or plywood board. Cut lath strips a little longer than the length of the panel, and nail them along the panel edge of the glass pattern.Provide a stop for the top, this does not have to go all the way across, but provides a top stop for the panel. You can then place the glass inbetween the strips for assembly taking care to align the adjoining pieces. Amark on the lath strip can be used for alignment, and with the pattern under the strips, exact repetive placement can be achieved. Again, if you have any more questions or are unsure...ask. Well, off to school to browbeat, cooerce, cajole, explain, insist, REPEAT, Etc., for my students. There are 3 domes working... ENJOY From owner-glass Thu Apr 20 19:39:29 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0s28c9-0000jka; Thu, 20 Apr 95 19:38 PDT X-Path: gjr From: gjr@daver.bungi.com (Glenna Rand) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Copper foil Size Date: Thu, 20 Apr 1995 19:38:17 PDT Message-ID: Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk [In the message entitled "Re: Copper foil Size" on Apr 19, 16:55, Elaine Lea Rubin writes:] > > Glenna, with only a few foiled, and I assume you mean pieces, not > complete panels, Isee no reason to re-foil them. I stongly urge you > to make sure the outter pieces are 7/32 foil. If the glass is a > little thinner on inner pieces, 3/16 is ok. To make an easy assembly > jig, first photo copy the pattern, laminate it with clear shelf contact > paper, place on shelf type or plywood board. Cut lath strips a little > longer than the length of the panel, and nail them along the panel > edge of the glass pattern.Provide a stop for the top, this does > not have to go all the way across, but provides a top stop for the > panel. You can then place the glass inbetween the strips for assembly > taking care to align the adjoining pieces. Amark on the lath strip > can be used for alignment, and with the pattern under the strips, > exact repetive placement can be achieved. Again, if you have any more > questions or are unsure...ask. Hi Howard, Thanks for the advice,..I removed the foil on the 6 pieces and went ahead and used 7/32 on all. The outside pieces would have been in 3/16 and I will definately take your advice on them being wrapped in 7/32. You are so helpful,...thanks again! Glenna -- From owner-glass Fri Apr 21 18:09:57 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0s2Tfr-0000G8a; Fri, 21 Apr 95 18:07 PDT X-Path: mail.prodigy.com!MPGP79B From: MPGP79B@prodigy.com (PEGGY M PALM) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Grinder heads Date: Fri, 21 Apr 1995 19:41:04 EDT Message-ID: <013.05742918.MPGP79B@prodigy.com> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk -- [ From: Peggy Palm * EMC.Ver #2.10P ] -- Well, the poppy lamp is finally wired and hung, with the large bulb recommended by Howard. I can't believe it... It's a strange feeling to have it actually DONE. It looks good for a first effort, but (of course) there are always those things that one would do differently if doing it again! My question: is it worthwhile to use one of those slanted grinder heads that are meant to put an angle on the sides of the glass, causing them to meet more accurately and produce a thinner solder line? I also appreciated Howard's tips to Wayne about soldering - thanks! BTY, Howard, is it safe to make fruit fly jokes so close to the state of California? The last time I crossed that border, the fruit police confiscated all 6 of my Washington state apples. Good thing I hadn't bought a bushel! Coming from the east coast, I had no idea that fruit police even existed. ;-) Peggy From owner-glass Fri Apr 21 19:10:51 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0s2UeT-0000RJa; Fri, 21 Apr 95 19:10 PDT X-Path: ednet1.osl.or.gov!erubin From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Grinder heads Date: Fri, 21 Apr 1995 19:10:36 -0700 Message-ID: <199504220210.AA11408@ednet1.osl.or.gov> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Howard(who may get himself in trouble)here... Hello Peggy, A good feeling to hand a finished lamp. For myself, the only (lamp) feeling that is better is when the check clears the bank! After doing over 200 domes, with as many as 16 of one style, I can still do it differently...colors, density, shading, accents, types of glass, and many combinations of same. Just altering emphasis on the grid rows can change the feeling of a lamp. In my opinion, nothing can be gained by using a beveled grinder bit. I would make foiling more difficult, and may not offer a wide enough gap between the panels for the solder to hold. Also, you would have to experiment with the correct amount of panels, as the angle decreases with more panels. If you are determined to try, try a wedge on the grinder surface, and bevel one side, then try fitting a few. AS per the agriculture check...Perhaps California has enough fruits and nuts already, as does not want any more coming in. If you get a chance, alittle history of yourself would be nice. As before, either me or the list...your choice. Enjoy From owner-glass Thu Apr 27 18:23:08 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0s4e1g-0000K5a; Thu, 27 Apr 95 17:35 PDT X-Path: Camosun.BC.CA!COOPERD From: cooperd@Camosun.BC.CA To: GLASS@BUNGI.COM Subject: QUIET Date: Thu, 27 Apr 1995 13:58:56 -0800 (PST) Message-ID: Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Hi! everyone, boy is it quite, what's happened to everyone, my project has slowed down right now since my husband bought a pool table at a garage sale and decided to re-organize my workspace into another area of the house so he could fit in the pool table, I wasn't able to be there when he did this so everything is everywhere, hopefully I will be able to get back to it soon. How's everyone else doing? From owner-glass Thu Apr 27 18:29:02 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0s4e7n-0000f5a; Thu, 27 Apr 95 17:41 PDT X-Path: calvin.stemnet.nf.ca!rcrane From: "Robert M. Crane" To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Gatewayed mail message Date: Thu, 27 Apr 1995 20:46:44 -0230 (NDT) Message-ID: Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Subscribe Robert Crane [rcrane@calvin.stemnet.nf.ca] From owner-glass Fri Apr 28 05:32:31 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0s4pDL-0000UDa; Fri, 28 Apr 95 05:32 PDT X-Path: nbnet.nb.ca!chaseway From: wayne chase To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: QUIET Summary: NB*net - New Brunswick's Regional Network 1-800-561-4459 Date: Fri, 28 Apr 1995 09:28:16 AST Message-ID: <9528092816.9358> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk On Thu, 27 Apr 1995 13:58:56 -0800 (PST), cooperd@Camosun.BC.CA writes: > >Hi! everyone, boy is it quite, what's happened to everyone, my project has >slowed down right now since my husband bought a pool table at a garage sale >and decided to re-organize my workspace into another area of the house so >he could fit in the pool table, I wasn't able to be there when he did this >so everything is everywhere, hopefully I will be able to get back to it soon. >How's everyone else doing? > Hi! to you also. I think the warmth of spring and the look at the state of the yard from the long winter has a temporary change of priorities. Everyone must be out cleaning and planting. You might say..."From the grinder to the rake" Have a nice day.. Wayne. From owner-glass Fri Apr 28 07:45:13 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0s4rHP-0000aXa; Fri, 28 Apr 95 07:44 PDT X-Path: umd5.umd.edu!santilla From: Kristina Santilla To: glass@bungi.com Subject: all kinds of things Date: Fri, 28 Apr 1995 10:44:17 -0400 (EDT) Message-ID: <1995Apr28.64417.0> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk A few dumb questions from a beginner: 1. I have a stained glass hanging lamp hard wired in my kitchen, and it always looks filthy. Even right after I clean it, the lights show spots on the clear crackle glass that are nearly impossible to get rid of. If I spray water on it can I do any damage when the lights heat the glass? I've seen a chandelier cleaner advertised that just sprays on and drips off - might this work? I didn't make this, but now know to use more opaque glasses in the future. 2. I am very unhappy with some copper patina work I have done. The copper gets darkened sooo quickly. I tried to use a wire brush, clean it well, and reapply, but it's still not as crisp and coppery as one I did previously. Any hints? 3. I was told that all work should have liquid wax put on it to increase the life of the shine, but I hate the way the dried wax looks when it dries where the solder meets the glass. After I've cleaned the bulk off, of course. It's almost impossible to get out of the cracks. Do I have to wax it? Is there a better way? 4. I have a front door with brass came that I am going to make a sidelight for. The sidelight will be much more intricate so I am going to copper foil it. What should I use to get the patina to match the brass? I have seen nothing on the market in the stained glass industry, however, I have seen a small bottle of liquid used for applying gold or gold-tone plating (about $30!!). Any thoughts? Being a beginner, I have many more questions, just didn't want to look too stupid all at once. I'm so glad that this list is available. Thank in advance, Krisi Santilla Santilla@umd5.umd.edu From owner-glass Fri Apr 28 08:46:50 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0s4sCz-0000Uua; Fri, 28 Apr 95 08:43 PDT X-Path: gjr From: gjr@daver.bungi.com (Glenna Rand) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Gatewayed mail message Date: Fri, 28 Apr 1995 08:43:31 PDT Message-ID: Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk [In the message entitled "Gatewayed mail message" on Apr 27, 20:46, "Robert M. Crane" writes:] > Subscribe Robert Crane [rcrane@calvin.stemnet.nf.ca] > Welcome Robert, I have added you on to the stained glass mailing list. Any mail you wish to submit should be sent to glass@bungi.com Please feel free to discuss any tips or techniques you may have, or for that matter,,...any questions as well. I have also sent the back issues for this month. >From owner-glass Tue Apr 4 15:27:37 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0rwH3e-0000bda; Tue, 4 Apr 95 15:26 PDT X-Path: ednet1.osl.or.gov!erubin From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: is anyone home? Date: Tue, 4 Apr 1995 15:27:12 -0700 Message-ID: <199504042227.AA28172@ednet1.osl.or.gov> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk What happened, did I scare everyone off...I only lightly brushed the surface. Enjoy >From owner-glass Tue Apr 4 19:15:06 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0rwKb4-0000Wra; Tue, 4 Apr 95 19:13 PDT X-Path: Camosun.BC.CA!COOPERD From: cooperd@Camosun.BC.CA To: glass@bungi.com Subject: scared off!! Date: Tue, 04 Apr 1995 18:46:43 -0800 (PST) Message-ID: <1995Apr4.104643.0@Camosun.BC.CA> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Hi, thanks for saying something, I thought something had happened out there in computer space. I guess everyone is busy with their projects and work, it sometimes interferes with things, I'm lucky here working in the library and always checking my messages, since a lot of communication goes on throught e-mail and we also do inter campus loans through the system. Anyway, I am working on a window oh! say about 2 3/4 by 1 3/4 I find this quite difficult because of all the small pieces, I know all of you professionals have probably done thousands of lamps and things with small pieces but me as an amateur who has only taken a couple of classes find it challenging, anyway I am cutting each piece separately this time which makes it a bit more fun and It's working out fine, what do you think of this. I would like to know what everyone else is doing, sounds like a lot of you are making lamps, I've only make 2. One turned out beautiful, I made in a class of course and the other one which was a mini lamp, well its ok, a little crooked I guess you could say, but ok for my bedroom with a little dim bulb in it. I'm not proud of it as you can tell, anyway I perserve away with classical music and find this hobby quite inspiring. Donna!!!!! >From owner-glass Tue Apr 4 20:28:20 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0rwLl1-0000Qwa; Tue, 4 Apr 95 20:27 PDT X-Path: gjr From: gjr@daver.bungi.com (Glenna Rand) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: is anyone home? Date: Tue, 4 Apr 1995 20:27:41 PDT Message-ID: Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk [In the message entitled "is anyone home?" on Apr 4, 15:27, Elaine Lea Rubin writes:] > > What happened, did I scare everyone off...I only lightly brushed > the surface. I'm still here.,..... Glenna -- >From owner-glass Tue Apr 4 20:43:44 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0rwLza-0000SJa; Tue, 4 Apr 95 20:42 PDT X-Path: gjr From: gjr@daver.bungi.com (Glenna Rand) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: scared off!! Date: Tue, 4 Apr 1995 20:42:39 PDT Message-ID: Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk [In the message entitled "scared off!!" on Apr 4, 18:46, cooperd@Camosun.BC.CA writes:] > of this. I would like to know what everyone else is doing, sounds like a lot > of you are making lamps, I've only make 2. One turned out beautiful, I > made in a class of course and the other one which was a mini lamp, well its > ok, a little crooked I guess you could say, but ok for my bedroom with a > little dim bulb in it. I'm not proud of it as you can tell, anyway I perserve > away with classical music and find this hobby quite inspiring. Donna!!!!! I have done 2 flat panel type project. Both have turn out very well. For Christmas I did about 10 suncatchers for friend and relatives. I'm am current working on a lamp. I've never had a class yet (Starts May 4) on lamp making, but thought I tackle it anyway. So far so good....I don't get to work on it every day though, so it may be a long process. Glenna -- >From owner-glass Wed Apr 5 05:41:08 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0rwUNx-0000M6a; Wed, 5 Apr 95 05:40 PDT X-Path: YaleVM.CIS.Yale.Edu!UCONNVM.UCONN.EDU!HCLADM02 From: Dorothy To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Designs Date: Wed, 05 Apr 95 08:34:40 EDT Message-ID: <950405.083950.EDT.HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk My last couple of designs (about 10"x7") have been athletes...an ice skater and a basketball player. These figures need to be surrounded by background glass, what with the limbs sticking out and all. I found it more nteresting visually (and more economical with the glass) to make the surrounding glass an irregular shape that rather echoes the movement of the figure, than to set them into ovals or rectangles. Dorothy ***Sending from Connecticut, home of National Champion UConn Women Huskies*** >From owner-glass Wed Apr 5 07:25:04 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0rwW0d-0000eia; Wed, 5 Apr 95 07:24 PDT X-Path: Wittenberg.EDU!cutler From: cutler@Wittenberg.EDU To: glass@bungi.com Subject: re: scared off Date: Wed, 05 Apr 1995 10:24:29 EDT Message-ID: <1995Apr5.142429.0@Wittenberg.EDU> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Not the least bit scared, Howard; just busy at the moment. I'm remodeling my workshop. Building a new, general-purpose workbench as well as expanding shelf space for a variety of materials, including glass supplies. I'm between projects. Takes a while for the creative juices to ferment, I suppose. AND it's cold in Ohio at the moment, which makes my workshop a bit on the chilly side. I need to improve the heat supply for that room! BUT I do have plenty of time to check e-mail, so if you have more suggestions about lamp construction - I'm especially interested in proper soldering iron temperatures for foil work, for example - I'd be glad to hear your thoughts. And of course,how do you price a lamp - that's always a bit of a mystery. You've said some things about this but I could use some more direction. Thanks again. Your help has been valuable and greatly appreciated out here. Bob Cutler >From owner-glass Wed Apr 5 09:22:37 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0rwXqO-0000Oma; Wed, 5 Apr 95 09:22 PDT X-Path: ednet1.osl.or.gov!erubin From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Designs Date: Wed, 5 Apr 1995 09:22:29 -0700 Message-ID: <199504051622.AA11987@ednet1.osl.or.gov> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Howard, here Dorothy, although I do very few windows, and even fewer of them "free-form", when my students insist, I usually try to clean up the design... that is minimize the lead lines(antennae). If you intend to frame a piece, the irregular edges would make it rather difficult, so, a neat trick is to use BLACK glass to square it off. After you black patina the piece, the lead line seems to disappear, and framing is easy. If you are going to hang it without a frame, make sure your hanging hardware is soldered in to the foil joints. Enjoy >From owner-glass Wed Apr 5 10:02:25 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0rwYSz-0000XPa; Wed, 5 Apr 95 10:02 PDT X-Path: ednet1.osl.or.gov!erubin From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: re: scared off Date: Wed, 5 Apr 1995 10:02:32 -0700 Message-ID: <199504051702.AA02776@ednet1.osl.or.gov> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Howard 2nd time, Dear Bob, I use an Ungar 1,000 iron for all the rough work ,tacking, tinning. The final beading is done with an 1,100 hp heater also Ungar. I save the corrroded ones for the rough work, and finish with a good tip. Because of the heat, I have a rheostat to control the iron, low when tacking and rough soldering, UP full when doing the final beading. As for pricing, Keep track of the time in production, I use an analog clock with an on and off switch in the line. Set it for 12 when you start, turn off when done(sometimes many times a day) Keep records of glass consumption... measure starting and finish size of the sheet, also solder, cap, base bulb, and any other stuff that you used. Total $ cost, figure labor time( plan on getting faster) Most galleries and stores double their wholesale cost, so compare what you want for the piece and see if it is competitive with what is out there, remember a lot of work comes out of the Orient, and they earn about $2.00 per day. It ain't easy to undersell that! All we can sell is made in USA and quality!!! TO ALL THE LIST>>> I highly recommend signing and numbering your work, keeping track of the patterns for future duplication, and the name of the owner if possible. If you put any work out for sale, keep the prices consistant, and if you sell direct, attempt to get retail for your work, as if someone will buy it in a store for $100.00, why should you not also get $100.00, too. More to come later, if needed. Enjoy >From owner-glass Wed Apr 5 10:17:57 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0rwYhl-0000cFa; Wed, 5 Apr 95 10:17 PDT X-Path: ednet1.osl.or.gov!erubin From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: scared off!! Date: Wed, 5 Apr 1995 10:17:43 -0700 Message-ID: <199504051717.AA05563@ednet1.osl.or.gov> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Howard, times 3 Donna, you did not say whether it is feet or inches that you are working with. My crowning window was 1sq ft with about 400 pieces in it. Never again, unless for big bucks. I flooded the e-mail list with "simple" instructions for sizing and technique for panel lamp making, and if you were fortunate enough to miss it, I may still have it in a pfs file, so if you have any desire for the instructions, let me know and I can send it direct. The more you practice ,the better you get! Do not be afraid to be your own harshest critic. Enjoy >From owner-glass Wed Apr 5 10:21:38 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0rwYlV-0000iWa; Wed, 5 Apr 95 10:21 PDT X-Path: ednet1.osl.or.gov!erubin From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: is anyone home? Date: Wed, 5 Apr 1995 10:21:36 -0700 Message-ID: <199504051721.AA06457@ednet1.osl.or.gov> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Howard, times 4 but who is counting Hello Glenna Enjoy >From owner-glass Wed Apr 5 11:14:31 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0rwZaj-0000jga; Wed, 5 Apr 95 11:14 PDT X-Path: YaleVM.CIS.Yale.Edu!UCONNVM.UCONN.EDU!HCLADM02 From: HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Designs Date: Wed, 05 Apr 95 14:11:07 EDT Message-ID: <950405.141315.EDT.HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu> References: <<199504051622.AA11987@ednet1.osl.or.gov>> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk These pieces are not intended to be framed...they are sort of oversized suncatchers..and I've been doing this for years. I hope most of my hanging problems are over. Part of my design work is to always create good place(s) to anchor my hanging loops. Dorothy >From owner-glass Wed Apr 5 14:19:07 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0rwcTR-0000aJa; Wed, 5 Apr 95 14:18 PDT X-Path: ednet1.osl.or.gov!erubin From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Designs Date: Wed, 5 Apr 1995 14:19:14 -0700 Message-ID: <199504052119.AA14074@ednet1.osl.or.gov> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk HOward, here... Dorothy, thanks for the clarification on the purpose of the free form pieces...after many years, you must be pretty good at 'em. Do you sell them or what. enjoy >From owner-glass Thu Apr 6 03:20:16 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0rwoey-0000Ena; Thu, 6 Apr 95 03:19 PDT X-Path: cps201.cps.cmich.edu!eiszler From: Sue Eiszler To: glass@bungi.com Subject: mirrors Date: Thu, 6 Apr 1995 06:19:12 -0400 (EDT) Message-ID: <1995Apr6.21912.0@cps.cmich.edu> References: <<950405.083950.EDT.HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu>> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Hi all, A friend has asked me to make a mirrored candle holder for her. I've never worked with mirrors before so would appreciate some tips (lead came is my thing). I know that there is some kind of spray to use on the edges, but does it work? What else can I do to avoid the destruction of the silvering? Thanks in advance. Sue eiszler@cps.cmich.edu >From owner-glass Thu Apr 6 05:33:18 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0rwqkB-0000Rpa; Thu, 6 Apr 95 05:33 PDT X-Path: YaleVM.CIS.Yale.Edu!UCONNVM.UCONN.EDU!HCLADM02 From: Dorothy Kalahan To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Designs Date: Thu, 06 Apr 95 08:24:05 EDT Message-ID: <950406.083218.EDT.HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu> References: <<199504052119.AA14074@ednet1.osl.or.gov>> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Hi, Howard et al I sell. I must confess, I am not terribly interested in lamps, so was trying to get another conversation started. I like to do my own designs. As far as the basketball player goes, I made a big mistake. I made a male player. Should have done a female player...around here, the lady Huskies (NCAA champions) are so hot, Sports Illustrated did a special regional issue. Maybe by next year. This is a craft fair type business right now and I have only so much time with my full time job and my evening teaching. Dorothy >From owner-glass Thu Apr 6 14:45:48 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0rwzMC-0000Aua; Thu, 6 Apr 95 14:44 PDT X-Path: ednet1.osl.or.gov!erubin From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Designs Date: Thu, 6 Apr 1995 14:38:12 -0700 Message-ID: <199504062138.AA19860@ednet1.osl.or.gov> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk howard, here... It is all for sale...one can only have just so much stuff around. The gifts I give are non-glass objects that I have traded my glass work for. My warped ideas( can not spell philosophy) is that if I give my own work away, it has no monetary value. One of my second favorite phrases is "I wii pay for it or the materials if it is NOT too much money". I have made a decision not to have my family try to keep me in business. It works! Enjoy >From owner-glass Sun Apr 9 13:29:27 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0ry3bE-00002Na; Sun, 9 Apr 95 13:28 PDT X-Path: mail.prodigy.com!MPGP79B From: MPGP79B@prodigy.com (PEGGY M PALM) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: mirrors Date: Sun, 09 Apr 1995 15:52:06 EDT Message-ID: <013.05311685.MPGP79B@prodigy.com> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk -- [ From: Peggy Palm * EMC.Ver #2.10P ] -- Hi Sue - I guess I was waiting for some of the more experienced folks out there to answer you with regard to mirrors. I want to do a mirror project also, but haven't gotten down that far on my list yet! I did ask about the general do's and don'ts in the class I took, and even wrote down the advice, which I'll be glad to share. I haven't actually tried any of this yet, so anyone out there should feel free to chime in... 1. Before doing anything else, protect the silvering on the back of the mirror by coating it with clear polyurethane or a spray-on mirror sealant sold for the purpose. Let it dry. 2. When cutting, cut with the right (reflective) side up, since the back is covered with polyurethane and would not score well (to say nothing of what it does to the cutter). Keeping a sheet of plain paper under the mirror when cutting lets you shake off glass crumbs easily after EVERY cut, to keep from scratching the silvering. 3. To grind, hold the piece wrong side up (reflection down, coating up) OR cover the grinder platform with a newspaper base and grind right (reflection) side up. 4. The very minute you have finished grinding, coat the mirror edges with a mirror sealant to keep flux off and black spots away. 5. If possible, use foil backed in the same color you plan to use for patina, especially if planning black patina. It isn''t as noticeable or distracting when reflected in the mirror. 6. Using organic flux (#30 Superior was mentioned) helps to avoid the dreaded black spots over time. Hope it helps! Let us know how it turns out. Peggy >From owner-glass Sun Apr 9 18:28:57 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0ry8HL-0000Qra; Sun, 9 Apr 95 18:28 PDT X-Path: cris.com!mycrump From: mycrump@cris.com (Daryl P. Dacko) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: unsubscribe Date: Sun, 9 Apr 95 21:27:53 EDT Message-ID: <9504100127.AA23629@cris.com> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk unsubscribe >From owner-glass Wed Apr 12 19:36:08 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0rzEjb-0000PIa; Wed, 12 Apr 95 19:34 PDT X-Path: Camosun.BC.CA!COOPERD From: cooperd@Camosun.BC.CA To: GLASS@BUNGI.COM Subject: PANEL OF MANY PIECES Date: Wed, 12 Apr 1995 19:31:47 -0800 (PST) Message-ID: <1995Apr12.113147.0> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Sorry, Howard I got so busy with everything I forget to reply to you. The panel which I said had so many pieces is in feet otherwise it would have been an awfully small window anyway my original question was " is it ok to cut one piece at a time rather than cut out the whole pattern first." I am doing it this way for a try it's not bad, but of course it's taking forever to finish. Yes, thanks I did receive your instructions for the panel lampmaking. Donna!!! >From owner-glass Wed Apr 12 22:47:57 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0rzHji-000039a; Wed, 12 Apr 95 22:46 PDT X-Path: ednet1.osl.or.gov!erubin From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: PANEL OF MANY PIECES Date: Wed, 12 Apr 1995 22:47:06 -0700 Message-ID: <199504130547.AA11850@ednet1.osl.or.gov> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Hi Donna, When you get to "my age" it is easy to forget, as I do not remember your question. IMHO I feel that cutting one pattern piece at a time is fine as they are easy to keep track of. The few windows I have done, I usually have blocked off in sections, and cut the background as a solid block and then cut away what was to replaced with other glass, this uses up extra background, but tends to allow for more accurate lines and fitting. The windows I am referring to were blocked off like a tic-tac-toe board with many curves changing colors under the zinc came. A lot of words to answer your question. Enjoy...Howard >From owner-glass Fri Apr 14 13:33:52 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0rzs2y-0000HYa; Fri, 14 Apr 95 13:32 PDT X-Path: cicerone.uunet.ca!idirect.com!mrum From: mrum@idirect.com (mike & carol) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Gatewayed mail message Date: Fri, 14 Apr 1995 16:38:12 -0400 Message-ID: <199504142038.QAA08324@lucid.idirect.com> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk subscribe mrum@idirect.com >From owner-glass Fri Apr 14 15:06:07 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0rztUi-0000LMa; Fri, 14 Apr 95 15:05 PDT X-Path: mail.prodigy.com!MPGP79B From: MPGP79B@prodigy.com (PEGGY M PALM) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Where is everyone? Date: Fri, 14 Apr 1995 17:24:08 EDT Message-ID: <013.05496631.MPGP79B@prodigy.com> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk -- [ From: Peggy Palm * EMC.Ver #2.10P ] -- Well, folks, is everyone really busy, or do we just need some new topics? I haven't had time to do more than gaze longingly at my worktable as I pass by lately. Too much to do at work -- some of the neglected paperwork has been coming home with me, leaving little time for hobbies, but I hope to end that trend soon! For lack of any "real" glass topic at the moment, I thought I'd send along an item that showed up on a crafts bulletin board in Prodigy. I didn't remember to get the name of the originator, so I can't give credit where it is due, but I thought some of you might enjoy.... Murphy's Laws for Glass Workers Murphy's Original Law: Anything that can go wrong, will. Solder Law: Hot solder looks exactly like cold solder. Breakage Law I: The number of bad breaks you get is directly proportional to the price of the glass. Breakage Law II: The number of bad breaks is in inverse proportion to the amount of glass on hand. Breakage Law III: The number of bad breaks is directly proportional to the distance from your supplier. Replacement Law: The moment you replace a lost tool with a new one, you will find the original. Installation Law I: The time required to install is directly proportional to the number of people watching. Installation Law II: The one tool you desperately need is back at the studio. Law of Studio Geometry: Any horizontal surface attracts clutter. At the most difficult point in the construction of any project, the phone will ring. The moment your hands touch lead, flux, or patina, extreme hunger pangs will commence. Everyone knows someone who does glass.....cheaper. One lead joint will always be unsoldered. There is no such thing as a clean stained glass window. You can always find a spot after you've installed it! The number of people you didn't know were listening is directly proportional to the severity of the swear word used. >From owner-glass Fri Apr 14 15:06:51 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0rztVN-0000OBa; Fri, 14 Apr 95 15:06 PDT X-Path: gjr From: gjr@daver.bungi.com (Glenna Rand) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Gatewayed mail message Date: Fri, 14 Apr 1995 15:06:07 PDT Message-ID: Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk A[In the message entitled "Gatewayed mail message" on Apr 14, 16:38, mike & carol writes:] > subscribe mrum@idirect.com > You're now on the mailing list. Anything you wish to submit should be mailed to glass@bungi.com I have included this months' back issues. >From owner-glass Tue Apr 4 15:27:37 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0rwH3e-0000bda; Tue, 4 Apr 95 15:26 PDT X-Path: ednet1.osl.or.gov!erubin From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: is anyone home? Date: Tue, 4 Apr 1995 15:27:12 -0700 Message-ID: <199504042227.AA28172@ednet1.osl.or.gov> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk What happened, did I scare everyone off...I only lightly brushed the surface. Enjoy >From owner-glass Tue Apr 4 19:15:06 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0rwKb4-0000Wra; Tue, 4 Apr 95 19:13 PDT X-Path: Camosun.BC.CA!COOPERD From: cooperd@Camosun.BC.CA To: glass@bungi.com Subject: scared off!! Date: Tue, 04 Apr 1995 18:46:43 -0800 (PST) Message-ID: <1995Apr4.104643.0@Camosun.BC.CA> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Hi, thanks for saying something, I thought something had happened out there in computer space. I guess everyone is busy with their projects and work, it sometimes interferes with things, I'm lucky here working in the library and always checking my messages, since a lot of communication goes on throught e-mail and we also do inter campus loans through the system. Anyway, I am working on a window oh! say about 2 3/4 by 1 3/4 I find this quite difficult because of all the small pieces, I know all of you professionals have probably done thousands of lamps and things with small pieces but me as an amateur who has only taken a couple of classes find it challenging, anyway I am cutting each piece separately this time which makes it a bit more fun and It's working out fine, what do you think of this. I would like to know what everyone else is doing, sounds like a lot of you are making lamps, I've only make 2. One turned out beautiful, I made in a class of course and the other one which was a mini lamp, well its ok, a little crooked I guess you could say, but ok for my bedroom with a little dim bulb in it. I'm not proud of it as you can tell, anyway I perserve away with classical music and find this hobby quite inspiring. Donna!!!!! >From owner-glass Tue Apr 4 20:28:20 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0rwLl1-0000Qwa; Tue, 4 Apr 95 20:27 PDT X-Path: gjr From: gjr@daver.bungi.com (Glenna Rand) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: is anyone home? Date: Tue, 4 Apr 1995 20:27:41 PDT Message-ID: Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk [In the message entitled "is anyone home?" on Apr 4, 15:27, Elaine Lea Rubin writes:] > > What happened, did I scare everyone off...I only lightly brushed > the surface. I'm still here.,..... Glenna -- >From owner-glass Tue Apr 4 20:43:44 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0rwLza-0000SJa; Tue, 4 Apr 95 20:42 PDT X-Path: gjr From: gjr@daver.bungi.com (Glenna Rand) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: scared off!! Date: Tue, 4 Apr 1995 20:42:39 PDT Message-ID: Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk [In the message entitled "scared off!!" on Apr 4, 18:46, cooperd@Camosun.BC.CA writes:] > of this. I would like to know what everyone else is doing, sounds like a lot > of you are making lamps, I've only make 2. One turned out beautiful, I > made in a class of course and the other one which was a mini lamp, well its > ok, a little crooked I guess you could say, but ok for my bedroom with a > little dim bulb in it. I'm not proud of it as you can tell, anyway I perserve > away with classical music and find this hobby quite inspiring. Donna!!!!! I have done 2 flat panel type project. Both have turn out very well. For Christmas I did about 10 suncatchers for friend and relatives. I'm am current working on a lamp. I've never had a class yet (Starts May 4) on lamp making, but thought I tackle it anyway. So far so good....I don't get to work on it every day though, so it may be a long process. Glenna -- >From owner-glass Wed Apr 5 05:41:08 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0rwUNx-0000M6a; Wed, 5 Apr 95 05:40 PDT X-Path: YaleVM.CIS.Yale.Edu!UCONNVM.UCONN.EDU!HCLADM02 From: Dorothy To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Designs Date: Wed, 05 Apr 95 08:34:40 EDT Message-ID: <950405.083950.EDT.HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk My last couple of designs (about 10"x7") have been athletes...an ice skater and a basketball player. These figures need to be surrounded by background glass, what with the limbs sticking out and all. I found it more nteresting visually (and more economical with the glass) to make the surrounding glass an irregular shape that rather echoes the movement of the figure, than to set them into ovals or rectangles. Dorothy ***Sending from Connecticut, home of National Champion UConn Women Huskies*** >From owner-glass Wed Apr 5 07:25:04 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0rwW0d-0000eia; Wed, 5 Apr 95 07:24 PDT X-Path: Wittenberg.EDU!cutler From: cutler@Wittenberg.EDU To: glass@bungi.com Subject: re: scared off Date: Wed, 05 Apr 1995 10:24:29 EDT Message-ID: <1995Apr5.142429.0@Wittenberg.EDU> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Not the least bit scared, Howard; just busy at the moment. I'm remodeling my workshop. Building a new, general-purpose workbench as well as expanding shelf space for a variety of materials, including glass supplies. I'm between projects. Takes a while for the creative juices to ferment, I suppose. AND it's cold in Ohio at the moment, which makes my workshop a bit on the chilly side. I need to improve the heat supply for that room! BUT I do have plenty of time to check e-mail, so if you have more suggestions about lamp construction - I'm especially interested in proper soldering iron temperatures for foil work, for example - I'd be glad to hear your thoughts. And of course,how do you price a lamp - that's always a bit of a mystery. You've said some things about this but I could use some more direction. Thanks again. Your help has been valuable and greatly appreciated out here. Bob Cutler >From owner-glass Wed Apr 5 09:22:37 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0rwXqO-0000Oma; Wed, 5 Apr 95 09:22 PDT X-Path: ednet1.osl.or.gov!erubin From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Designs Date: Wed, 5 Apr 1995 09:22:29 -0700 Message-ID: <199504051622.AA11987@ednet1.osl.or.gov> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Howard, here Dorothy, although I do very few windows, and even fewer of them "free-form", when my students insist, I usually try to clean up the design... that is minimize the lead lines(antennae). If you intend to frame a piece, the irregular edges would make it rather difficult, so, a neat trick is to use BLACK glass to square it off. After you black patina the piece, the lead line seems to disappear, and framing is easy. If you are going to hang it without a frame, make sure your hanging hardware is soldered in to the foil joints. Enjoy >From owner-glass Wed Apr 5 10:02:25 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0rwYSz-0000XPa; Wed, 5 Apr 95 10:02 PDT X-Path: ednet1.osl.or.gov!erubin From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: re: scared off Date: Wed, 5 Apr 1995 10:02:32 -0700 Message-ID: <199504051702.AA02776@ednet1.osl.or.gov> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Howard 2nd time, Dear Bob, I use an Ungar 1,000 iron for all the rough work ,tacking, tinning. The final beading is done with an 1,100 hp heater also Ungar. I save the corrroded ones for the rough work, and finish with a good tip. Because of the heat, I have a rheostat to control the iron, low when tacking and rough soldering, UP full when doing the final beading. As for pricing, Keep track of the time in production, I use an analog clock with an on and off switch in the line. Set it for 12 when you start, turn off when done(sometimes many times a day) Keep records of glass consumption... measure starting and finish size of the sheet, also solder, cap, base bulb, and any other stuff that you used. Total $ cost, figure labor time( plan on getting faster) Most galleries and stores double their wholesale cost, so compare what you want for the piece and see if it is competitive with what is out there, remember a lot of work comes out of the Orient, and they earn about $2.00 per day. It ain't easy to undersell that! All we can sell is made in USA and quality!!! TO ALL THE LIST>>> I highly recommend signing and numbering your work, keeping track of the patterns for future duplication, and the name of the owner if possible. If you put any work out for sale, keep the prices consistant, and if you sell direct, attempt to get retail for your work, as if someone will buy it in a store for $100.00, why should you not also get $100.00, too. More to come later, if needed. Enjoy >From owner-glass Wed Apr 5 10:17:57 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0rwYhl-0000cFa; Wed, 5 Apr 95 10:17 PDT X-Path: ednet1.osl.or.gov!erubin From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: scared off!! Date: Wed, 5 Apr 1995 10:17:43 -0700 Message-ID: <199504051717.AA05563@ednet1.osl.or.gov> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Howard, times 3 Donna, you did not say whether it is feet or inches that you are working with. My crowning window was 1sq ft with about 400 pieces in it. Never again, unless for big bucks. I flooded the e-mail list with "simple" instructions for sizing and technique for panel lamp making, and if you were fortunate enough to miss it, I may still have it in a pfs file, so if you have any desire for the instructions, let me know and I can send it direct. The more you practice ,the better you get! Do not be afraid to be your own harshest critic. Enjoy >From owner-glass Wed Apr 5 10:21:38 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0rwYlV-0000iWa; Wed, 5 Apr 95 10:21 PDT X-Path: ednet1.osl.or.gov!erubin From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: is anyone home? Date: Wed, 5 Apr 1995 10:21:36 -0700 Message-ID: <199504051721.AA06457@ednet1.osl.or.gov> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Howard, times 4 but who is counting Hello Glenna Enjoy >From owner-glass Wed Apr 5 11:14:31 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0rwZaj-0000jga; Wed, 5 Apr 95 11:14 PDT X-Path: YaleVM.CIS.Yale.Edu!UCONNVM.UCONN.EDU!HCLADM02 From: HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Designs Date: Wed, 05 Apr 95 14:11:07 EDT Message-ID: <950405.141315.EDT.HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu> References: <<199504051622.AA11987@ednet1.osl.or.gov>> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk These pieces are not intended to be framed...they are sort of oversized suncatchers..and I've been doing this for years. I hope most of my hanging problems are over. Part of my design work is to always create good place(s) to anchor my hanging loops. Dorothy >From owner-glass Wed Apr 5 14:19:07 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0rwcTR-0000aJa; Wed, 5 Apr 95 14:18 PDT X-Path: ednet1.osl.or.gov!erubin From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Designs Date: Wed, 5 Apr 1995 14:19:14 -0700 Message-ID: <199504052119.AA14074@ednet1.osl.or.gov> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk HOward, here... Dorothy, thanks for the clarification on the purpose of the free form pieces...after many years, you must be pretty good at 'em. Do you sell them or what. enjoy >From owner-glass Thu Apr 6 03:20:16 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0rwoey-0000Ena; Thu, 6 Apr 95 03:19 PDT X-Path: cps201.cps.cmich.edu!eiszler From: Sue Eiszler To: glass@bungi.com Subject: mirrors Date: Thu, 6 Apr 1995 06:19:12 -0400 (EDT) Message-ID: <1995Apr6.21912.0@cps.cmich.edu> References: <<950405.083950.EDT.HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu>> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Hi all, A friend has asked me to make a mirrored candle holder for her. I've never worked with mirrors before so would appreciate some tips (lead came is my thing). I know that there is some kind of spray to use on the edges, but does it work? What else can I do to avoid the destruction of the silvering? Thanks in advance. Sue eiszler@cps.cmich.edu >From owner-glass Thu Apr 6 05:33:18 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0rwqkB-0000Rpa; Thu, 6 Apr 95 05:33 PDT X-Path: YaleVM.CIS.Yale.Edu!UCONNVM.UCONN.EDU!HCLADM02 From: Dorothy Kalahan To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Designs Date: Thu, 06 Apr 95 08:24:05 EDT Message-ID: <950406.083218.EDT.HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu> References: <<199504052119.AA14074@ednet1.osl.or.gov>> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Hi, Howard et al I sell. I must confess, I am not terribly interested in lamps, so was trying to get another conversation started. I like to do my own designs. As far as the basketball player goes, I made a big mistake. I made a male player. Should have done a female player...around here, the lady Huskies (NCAA champions) are so hot, Sports Illustrated did a special regional issue. Maybe by next year. This is a craft fair type business right now and I have only so much time with my full time job and my evening teaching. Dorothy >From owner-glass Thu Apr 6 14:45:48 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0rwzMC-0000Aua; Thu, 6 Apr 95 14:44 PDT X-Path: ednet1.osl.or.gov!erubin From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Designs Date: Thu, 6 Apr 1995 14:38:12 -0700 Message-ID: <199504062138.AA19860@ednet1.osl.or.gov> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk howard, here... It is all for sale...one can only have just so much stuff around. The gifts I give are non-glass objects that I have traded my glass work for. My warped ideas( can not spell philosophy) is that if I give my own work away, it has no monetary value. One of my second favorite phrases is "I wii pay for it or the materials if it is NOT too much money". I have made a decision not to have my family try to keep me in business. It works! Enjoy >From owner-glass Sun Apr 9 13:29:27 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0ry3bE-00002Na; Sun, 9 Apr 95 13:28 PDT X-Path: mail.prodigy.com!MPGP79B From: MPGP79B@prodigy.com (PEGGY M PALM) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: mirrors Date: Sun, 09 Apr 1995 15:52:06 EDT Message-ID: <013.05311685.MPGP79B@prodigy.com> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk -- [ From: Peggy Palm * EMC.Ver #2.10P ] -- Hi Sue - I guess I was waiting for some of the more experienced folks out there to answer you with regard to mirrors. I want to do a mirror project also, but haven't gotten down that far on my list yet! I did ask about the general do's and don'ts in the class I took, and even wrote down the advice, which I'll be glad to share. I haven't actually tried any of this yet, so anyone out there should feel free to chime in... 1. Before doing anything else, protect the silvering on the back of the mirror by coating it with clear polyurethane or a spray-on mirror sealant sold for the purpose. Let it dry. 2. When cutting, cut with the right (reflective) side up, since the back is covered with polyurethane and would not score well (to say nothing of what it does to the cutter). Keeping a sheet of plain paper under the mirror when cutting lets you shake off glass crumbs easily after EVERY cut, to keep from scratching the silvering. 3. To grind, hold the piece wrong side up (reflection down, coating up) OR cover the grinder platform with a newspaper base and grind right (reflection) side up. 4. The very minute you have finished grinding, coat the mirror edges with a mirror sealant to keep flux off and black spots away. 5. If possible, use foil backed in the same color you plan to use for patina, especially if planning black patina. It isn''t as noticeable or distracting when reflected in the mirror. 6. Using organic flux (#30 Superior was mentioned) helps to avoid the dreaded black spots over time. Hope it helps! Let us know how it turns out. Peggy >From owner-glass Sun Apr 9 18:28:57 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0ry8HL-0000Qra; Sun, 9 Apr 95 18:28 PDT X-Path: cris.com!mycrump From: mycrump@cris.com (Daryl P. Dacko) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: unsubscribe Date: Sun, 9 Apr 95 21:27:53 EDT Message-ID: <9504100127.AA23629@cris.com> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk unsubscribe >From owner-glass Wed Apr 12 19:36:08 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0rzEjb-0000PIa; Wed, 12 Apr 95 19:34 PDT X-Path: Camosun.BC.CA!COOPERD From: cooperd@Camosun.BC.CA To: GLASS@BUNGI.COM Subject: PANEL OF MANY PIECES Date: Wed, 12 Apr 1995 19:31:47 -0800 (PST) Message-ID: <1995Apr12.113147.0> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Sorry, Howard I got so busy with everything I forget to reply to you. The panel which I said had so many pieces is in feet otherwise it would have been an awfully small window anyway my original question was " is it ok to cut one piece at a time rather than cut out the whole pattern first." I am doing it this way for a try it's not bad, but of course it's taking forever to finish. Yes, thanks I did receive your instructions for the panel lampmaking. Donna!!! >From owner-glass Wed Apr 12 22:47:57 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0rzHji-000039a; Wed, 12 Apr 95 22:46 PDT X-Path: ednet1.osl.or.gov!erubin From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: PANEL OF MANY PIECES Date: Wed, 12 Apr 1995 22:47:06 -0700 Message-ID: <199504130547.AA11850@ednet1.osl.or.gov> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Hi Donna, When you get to "my age" it is easy to forget, as I do not remember your question. IMHO I feel that cutting one pattern piece at a time is fine as they are easy to keep track of. The few windows I have done, I usually have blocked off in sections, and cut the background as a solid block and then cut away what was to replaced with other glass, this uses up extra background, but tends to allow for more accurate lines and fitting. The windows I am referring to were blocked off like a tic-tac-toe board with many curves changing colors under the zinc came. A lot of words to answer your question. Enjoy...Howard >From owner-glass Fri Apr 14 13:33:52 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0rzs2y-0000HYa; Fri, 14 Apr 95 13:32 PDT X-Path: cicerone.uunet.ca!idirect.com!mrum From: mrum@idirect.com (mike & carol) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Gatewayed mail message Date: Fri, 14 Apr 1995 16:38:12 -0400 Message-ID: <199504142038.QAA08324@lucid.idirect.com> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk subscribe mrum@idirect.com -- >From owner-glass Fri Apr 14 16:01:26 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0rzuMP-0000Gma; Fri, 14 Apr 95 16:01 PDT X-Path: ednet1.osl.or.gov!erubin From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Where is everyone? Date: Fri, 14 Apr 1995 16:01:35 -0700 Message-ID: <199504142301.AA12579@ednet1.osl.or.gov> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Howard here... Without any specific questions to answer, I have very little say that would be worth reading...My classes have entered the third week and the beginning students have become fairly proficient in breaking glass. They have yet to do any serious soldering. Most of them have a small panel lamp ready to pull up into the cone shape. The thought for a while is... Time flies like lightning, fruit flies like banannas. Enjoy >From owner-glass Mon Apr 17 05:46:08 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0s0qAu-0000bra; Mon, 17 Apr 95 05:45 PDT X-Path: YaleVM.CIS.Yale.Edu!UCONNVM.UCONN.EDU!HCLADM02 From: Dorothy Kalahan To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Inclusions Date: Mon, 17 Apr 95 08:39:50 EDT Message-ID: <950417.084405.EDT.HCLADM02@UConnVM.UConn.Edu> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Okay, here's a topic...how many people try (and how many succeed) at including things other than stained glass in stained glass pieces. I've seen shells (they are so porous, they must be coated with something, I guess). Last I tried, I bought a resin cameo from a craft shop and set it into a business card holder. I was EXTREMELY careful to keep flux on the foil only, soldered quickly, also patined carefully. It looks quite elegant. (Ah-ha I may be onto something.) Dorothy >From owner-glass Mon Apr 17 15:44:36 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0s0zWV-0000OLa; Mon, 17 Apr 95 15:44 PDT X-Path: ednet1.osl.or.gov!erubin From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Inclusions Date: Mon, 17 Apr 1995 15:44:34 -0700 Message-ID: <199504172244.AA13448@ednet1.osl.or.gov> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk This is Howard... In a moment of weakness along time ago, I purchased some half Nautilus shells. There were a couple of others putting them in hexagons and using them for window hangers. I cut a fan shape and used a shell fan lamp base for the lightsource. They sold well, and were easy to make. The Nautilus shell is practically impossible to destroy with solder, flux or patina, and comes either natural or polished. I also have used agate slabs in panel lamps, and by commission have hung crystals and pendants in panel lamps. I have a buddy who makes millifiori fish in ovals, and we have jointly put out work in lamp shades. Another very traditional useage are turtle backs(glass) and can go in a variety of projects. Anything you can shape, foil, and will not melt with solder can probably be used. Because I do mainly lamps, I look for trans- lucent qualities.If you have any specific questions ask away. enjoy! >From owner-glass Mon Apr 17 19:18:11 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0s12rR-0000gya; Mon, 17 Apr 95 19:17 PDT X-Path: nbnet.nb.ca!chaseway From: wayne chase To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Solder...Uggggh!!! Summary: NB*net - New Brunswick's Regional Network 1-800-561-4459 Date: Mon, 17 Apr 1995 23:14:20 AST Message-ID: <9517231420.C2F3> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Hi Howard, Just a quick inquiry.....When it comes to solder, I still have some rough spots. Here are a couple of quick questions. When I finish a curved piece sich as a dome style lamp, my solder seems to look and feel like a porcupine. Flat pieces are better. Why am I getting these "points" in my soldering? Also, how high should the bead of solder be above the glass? Is there a height by definition? Anyway, I would appreciate any comments you might have. I have not been doing much glass for the past couple of months as I have just completed an exhibit of classic black and white portraiture, and was gearing up to the opening night private showing and reception. It went very well, and now I need a break and change of pace from the darkroom for a while, so the glass is calling to my inner interest. Have a good day, Wayne chaseway@nbnet.nb.ca >From owner-glass Mon Apr 17 21:49:04 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0s15DG-0000aza; Mon, 17 Apr 95 21:48 PDT X-Path: ednet1.osl.or.gov!erubin From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Solder...Uggggh!!! Date: Mon, 17 Apr 1995 21:48:44 -0700 Message-ID: <199504180448.AA20086@ednet1.osl.or.gov> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Howard. here Wayne, a few suggestions and observations: The points are probably from picking up the iron as you near a joint that is already soldered. Not knowing what iron you are using, I could also suggest a hotter iron, again I finish soldering with an 1,100 degree Ungar at full heat. When you solder make sure the iron down on the foil, too. If the tip is floating on the surface, it will tend to leave peaks in the solder. I use 50/50 solder. Make sure you melt the joints as you cross them ,as they take more heat to run together. As per the height of the bead, it is set by the width of the foil and how carefully you fit the pieces before foiling and tacking. Any gaps will fill with solder, and cause uneven looking beads. I do not think a properly fit lamp can take too much solder. I use a lot of Yogo stipple glass, and generally use 3/16 foil on it. You can not raise a bead past a certain point(I have no reference point) without it running out on the glass. Make sure the lamp is level when soldering, as gravity will pull a bead before it is set, and cause it to have waves. Soldering takes a lot of practice and the mechanics are hard to articulate on a screen. I use Glass Star Flux as I like the powerit has to not burn off on the first pass with the iron. I also either use a respirator or turn on the exhaust system when I am soldering. I personally feel that the organic flux (Laco) does not solder or last well enough to use. It seems to corrode while I am working. Hpoe some of this makes sense and works for you. Enjoy >From owner-glass Tue Apr 18 09:39:47 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0s1GIk-00002Aa; Tue, 18 Apr 95 09:38 PDT X-Path: gjr From: gjr@daver.bungi.com (Glenna Rand) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Copper foil Size Date: Tue, 18 Apr 1995 09:38:53 PDT Message-ID: Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Hi, I am currently ready to foil my lamp (as seen in "Easy to Make Stained Glass Lampshades" by Ed Sibbett, Jr. - Plate 18) I am interested in some advice as to what size of copperfoil to use. So far one person suggested I use 7/32 for the largest piece. Then the rest in 3/16. Then once the inside is soldered,..to re-foil the outside of each panel before assembly. Any other suggestions? Glenna -- >From owner-glass Tue Apr 18 17:15:35 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0s1NQ5-0000aca; Tue, 18 Apr 95 17:15 PDT X-Path: ednet1.osl.or.gov!erubin From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Copper foil Size Date: Tue, 18 Apr 1995 17:15:26 -0700 Message-ID: <199504190015.AA06755@ednet1.osl.or.gov> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk this is Howard... Why make more work and complicate the project? If the glass is 1/8" thick, such as Spectrum, use 7/32 foil all around thr project. If the glass is thinner than 1/8, use 3/16 foil. DO NOT start and end on an exposed edge, that is one without another piece of glass soldered to it. Assemble each panel in a jig making sure abutting pieces line up with a reference mark on the jig. That should keep you busy for a few minutes. When in doubt...ask. Enjoy >From owner-glass Tue Apr 18 17:20:48 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0s1NVO-0000cna; Tue, 18 Apr 95 17:20 PDT X-Path: ednet1.osl.or.gov!erubin From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Solder...Uggggh!!! Date: Tue, 18 Apr 1995 17:20:53 -0700 Message-ID: <199504190020.AA07973@ednet1.osl.or.gov> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Hi Wayne... A follow up to the solder tome, I am interested in what you do as a photographer and how and what you show and where and anything else you have the time to discuss. If you want to keep it somewhat personal, e-mail to me direct, rather than to the list. Hope the solder hints worked. enjoy >From owner-glass Wed Apr 19 00:10:29 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0s1Tth-0000CRa; Wed, 19 Apr 95 00:10 PDT X-Path: primenet.com!burtman From: burtman@PrimeNet.Com (Burt Eastburn) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: First lamp-how does one tin the cap? Date: Wed, 19 Apr 1995 00:09:43 -0700 Message-ID: <199504190709.AAA13765@mailhost.primenet.com> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Found a nice brass cap for my first lamp, have been told that I should tin the brass cap. Can anyone give me some insight on the best way to do this? Thanks Lorley-significant other to Burtman my mail(male) host. >From owner-glass Wed Apr 19 09:52:01 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0s1cxU-0000EFa; Wed, 19 Apr 95 09:50 PDT X-Path: ednet1.osl.or.gov!erubin From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: First lamp-how does one tin the cap? Date: Wed, 19 Apr 1995 09:50:26 -0700 Message-ID: <199504191650.AA19756@ednet1.osl.or.gov> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Howard, here Lorley, my first question is , why tin it? If the brass is clean you should be able to patina it after it is done. By carefully fluxing the lower lip of the cap, and putting a small dab of solder on it and letting gravity pull it down onto the foil as well. I solder the cap firmly onto the glass from the inside. Make sure you level the workbench as well as checking for level before installing the cap. I use a piece of welding rod bent at a right angle for pushing out any panels that are not touching the cap prior to soldering. If you still decide or must tin it, flux it well, heat it with a propane torch(use pliers to hold it) then lightly tin with solder and run it with a hot iron. If you do not tin the cap and touch it with some solder that sticks, DO NOT try to remove with the iron. Scrape or file it off. Do not hesitate to ask for clarification on any phase of it. Enjoy >From owner-glass Wed Apr 19 13:21:28 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0s1gFK-0000Oxa; Wed, 19 Apr 95 13:21 PDT X-Path: gjr From: gjr@daver.bungi.com (Glenna Rand) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Copper foil Size Date: Wed, 19 Apr 1995 13:21:05 PDT Message-ID: Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk [In the message entitled "Re: Copper foil Size" on Apr 18, 17:15, Elaine Lea Rubin writes:] > > this is Howard... > Why make more work and complicate the project? > If the glass is 1/8" thick, such as Spectrum, use 7/32 foil > all around thr project. If the glass is thinner than 1/8, use > 3/16 foil. DO NOT start and end on an exposed edge, that is one > without another piece of glass soldered to it. Assemble each panel > in a jig making sure abutting pieces line up with a reference > mark on the jig. That should keep you busy for a few minutes. If I have already done several pieces with the 3/16 would you recommend that I start over. The reason this guy told me to use to 3/16 is that it would more delicate looking. I'm worried now that it may be too delicate..?? As for making a jig,..any hints??? especially being that the bottom is rounded (with jewel) Glenna -- >From owner-glass Wed Apr 19 17:26:37 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0s1jtu-0000Zxa; Wed, 19 Apr 95 17:15 PDT X-Path: ednet1.osl.or.gov!erubin From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Copper foil Size Date: Wed, 19 Apr 1995 16:55:50 -0700 Message-ID: <199504192355.AA16104@ednet1.osl.or.gov> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Howard, again... Glenna, with only a few foiled, and I assume you mean pieces, not complete panels, Isee no reason to re-foil them. I stongly urge you to make sure the outter pieces are 7/32 foil. If the glass is a little thinner on inner pieces, 3/16 is ok. To make an easy assembly jig, first photo copy the pattern, laminate it with clear shelf contact paper, place on shelf type or plywood board. Cut lath strips a little longer than the length of the panel, and nail them along the panel edge of the glass pattern.Provide a stop for the top, this does not have to go all the way across, but provides a top stop for the panel. You can then place the glass inbetween the strips for assembly taking care to align the adjoining pieces. Amark on the lath strip can be used for alignment, and with the pattern under the strips, exact repetive placement can be achieved. Again, if you have any more questions or are unsure...ask. Well, off to school to browbeat, cooerce, cajole, explain, insist, REPEAT, Etc., for my students. There are 3 domes working... ENJOY >From owner-glass Thu Apr 20 19:39:29 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0s28c9-0000jka; Thu, 20 Apr 95 19:38 PDT X-Path: gjr From: gjr@daver.bungi.com (Glenna Rand) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Copper foil Size Date: Thu, 20 Apr 1995 19:38:17 PDT Message-ID: Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk [In the message entitled "Re: Copper foil Size" on Apr 19, 16:55, Elaine Lea Rubin writes:] > > Glenna, with only a few foiled, and I assume you mean pieces, not > complete panels, Isee no reason to re-foil them. I stongly urge you > to make sure the outter pieces are 7/32 foil. If the glass is a > little thinner on inner pieces, 3/16 is ok. To make an easy assembly > jig, first photo copy the pattern, laminate it with clear shelf contact > paper, place on shelf type or plywood board. Cut lath strips a little > longer than the length of the panel, and nail them along the panel > edge of the glass pattern.Provide a stop for the top, this does > not have to go all the way across, but provides a top stop for the > panel. You can then place the glass inbetween the strips for assembly > taking care to align the adjoining pieces. Amark on the lath strip > can be used for alignment, and with the pattern under the strips, > exact repetive placement can be achieved. Again, if you have any more > questions or are unsure...ask. Hi Howard, Thanks for the advice,..I removed the foil on the 6 pieces and went ahead and used 7/32 on all. The outside pieces would have been in 3/16 and I will definately take your advice on them being wrapped in 7/32. You are so helpful,...thanks again! Glenna -- >From owner-glass Fri Apr 21 18:09:57 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0s2Tfr-0000G8a; Fri, 21 Apr 95 18:07 PDT X-Path: mail.prodigy.com!MPGP79B From: MPGP79B@prodigy.com (PEGGY M PALM) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Grinder heads Date: Fri, 21 Apr 1995 19:41:04 EDT Message-ID: <013.05742918.MPGP79B@prodigy.com> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk -- [ From: Peggy Palm * EMC.Ver #2.10P ] -- Well, the poppy lamp is finally wired and hung, with the large bulb recommended by Howard. I can't believe it... It's a strange feeling to have it actually DONE. It looks good for a first effort, but (of course) there are always those things that one would do differently if doing it again! My question: is it worthwhile to use one of those slanted grinder heads that are meant to put an angle on the sides of the glass, causing them to meet more accurately and produce a thinner solder line? I also appreciated Howard's tips to Wayne about soldering - thanks! BTY, Howard, is it safe to make fruit fly jokes so close to the state of California? The last time I crossed that border, the fruit police confiscated all 6 of my Washington state apples. Good thing I hadn't bought a bushel! Coming from the east coast, I had no idea that fruit police even existed. ;-) Peggy >From owner-glass Fri Apr 21 19:10:51 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0s2UeT-0000RJa; Fri, 21 Apr 95 19:10 PDT X-Path: ednet1.osl.or.gov!erubin From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Grinder heads Date: Fri, 21 Apr 1995 19:10:36 -0700 Message-ID: <199504220210.AA11408@ednet1.osl.or.gov> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Howard(who may get himself in trouble)here... Hello Peggy, A good feeling to hand a finished lamp. For myself, the only (lamp) feeling that is better is when the check clears the bank! After doing over 200 domes, with as many as 16 of one style, I can still do it differently...colors, density, shading, accents, types of glass, and many combinations of same. Just altering emphasis on the grid rows can change the feeling of a lamp. In my opinion, nothing can be gained by using a beveled grinder bit. I would make foiling more difficult, and may not offer a wide enough gap between the panels for the solder to hold. Also, you would have to experiment with the correct amount of panels, as the angle decreases with more panels. If you are determined to try, try a wedge on the grinder surface, and bevel one side, then try fitting a few. AS per the agriculture check...Perhaps California has enough fruits and nuts already, as does not want any more coming in. If you get a chance, alittle history of yourself would be nice. As before, either me or the list...your choice. Enjoy >From owner-glass Thu Apr 27 18:23:08 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0s4e1g-0000K5a; Thu, 27 Apr 95 17:35 PDT X-Path: Camosun.BC.CA!COOPERD From: cooperd@Camosun.BC.CA To: GLASS@BUNGI.COM Subject: QUIET Date: Thu, 27 Apr 1995 13:58:56 -0800 (PST) Message-ID: Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Hi! everyone, boy is it quite, what's happened to everyone, my project has slowed down right now since my husband bought a pool table at a garage sale and decided to re-organize my workspace into another area of the house so he could fit in the pool table, I wasn't able to be there when he did this so everything is everywhere, hopefully I will be able to get back to it soon. How's everyone else doing? >From owner-glass Thu Apr 27 18:29:02 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0s4e7n-0000f5a; Thu, 27 Apr 95 17:41 PDT X-Path: calvin.stemnet.nf.ca!rcrane From: "Robert M. Crane" To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Gatewayed mail message Date: Thu, 27 Apr 1995 20:46:44 -0230 (NDT) Message-ID: Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Subscribe Robert Crane [rcrane@calvin.stemnet.nf.ca] >From owner-glass Fri Apr 28 05:32:31 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0s4pDL-0000UDa; Fri, 28 Apr 95 05:32 PDT X-Path: nbnet.nb.ca!chaseway From: wayne chase To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: QUIET Summary: NB*net - New Brunswick's Regional Network 1-800-561-4459 Date: Fri, 28 Apr 1995 09:28:16 AST Message-ID: <9528092816.9358> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk On Thu, 27 Apr 1995 13:58:56 -0800 (PST), cooperd@Camosun.BC.CA writes: > >Hi! everyone, boy is it quite, what's happened to everyone, my project has >slowed down right now since my husband bought a pool table at a garage sale >and decided to re-organize my workspace into another area of the house so >he could fit in the pool table, I wasn't able to be there when he did this >so everything is everywhere, hopefully I will be able to get back to it soon. >How's everyone else doing? > Hi! to you also. I think the warmth of spring and the look at the state of the yard from the long winter has a temporary change of priorities. Everyone must be out cleaning and planting. You might say..."From the grinder to the rake" Have a nice day.. Wayne. >From owner-glass Fri Apr 28 07:45:13 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0s4rHP-0000aXa; Fri, 28 Apr 95 07:44 PDT X-Path: umd5.umd.edu!santilla From: Kristina Santilla To: glass@bungi.com Subject: all kinds of things Date: Fri, 28 Apr 1995 10:44:17 -0400 (EDT) Message-ID: <1995Apr28.64417.0> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk A few dumb questions from a beginner: 1. I have a stained glass hanging lamp hard wired in my kitchen, and it always looks filthy. Even right after I clean it, the lights show spots on the clear crackle glass that are nearly impossible to get rid of. If I spray water on it can I do any damage when the lights heat the glass? I've seen a chandelier cleaner advertised that just sprays on and drips off - might this work? I didn't make this, but now know to use more opaque glasses in the future. 2. I am very unhappy with some copper patina work I have done. The copper gets darkened sooo quickly. I tried to use a wire brush, clean it well, and reapply, but it's still not as crisp and coppery as one I did previously. Any hints? 3. I was told that all work should have liquid wax put on it to increase the life of the shine, but I hate the way the dried wax looks when it dries where the solder meets the glass. After I've cleaned the bulk off, of course. It's almost impossible to get out of the cracks. Do I have to wax it? Is there a better way? 4. I have a front door with brass came that I am going to make a sidelight for. The sidelight will be much more intricate so I am going to copper foil it. What should I use to get the patina to match the brass? I have seen nothing on the market in the stained glass industry, however, I have seen a small bottle of liquid used for applying gold or gold-tone plating (about $30!!). Any thoughts? Being a beginner, I have many more questions, just didn't want to look too stupid all at once. I'm so glad that this list is available. Thank in advance, Krisi Santilla Santilla@umd5.umd.edu -- From owner-glass Fri Apr 28 09:54:30 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0s4tJ2-0000WMa; Fri, 28 Apr 95 09:54 PDT X-Path: aol.com!LBettin From: LBettin@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Quiet Here Too Date: Fri, 28 Apr 1995 12:54:08 -0400 Message-ID: <950428125314_99617439@aol.com> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Wayne is oh so correct -- the garden beckons and the glass waits. So I will pose a question -- I would be interested in knowing how you all purchase your glass (i.e., what source, etc.). I generally purchase from Warner-Crivello by mail order, as they seem to have a good selection. Are there sources out there with better prices and more convenient way of ordering? I live in Carson City, NV and have to go to Reno (30 miles) to the glass store, in emergencies. I find all this rather frustrating, but have no other options at the moment. Perhaps I should sell a few pieces once in awhile and get a resale number. Right now I only do this for my own use and for presents for friends and family ... hobby purposes only. Any thoughts from all you fellow glass buddies? Looking forward to your comments. Regards, Laura From owner-glass Fri Apr 28 10:52:23 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0s4uD6-0000Uua; Fri, 28 Apr 95 10:52 PDT X-Path: ednet1.osl.or.gov!erubin From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: QUIET Date: Fri, 28 Apr 1995 10:52:37 -0700 Message-ID: <199504281752.AA00887@ednet1.osl.or.gov> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk This is Howard, a pool table can certainly cause you get "behind the eight ball" If you shoot pool that terminology means something. I hung around a pool room in NJ for 8 intense years. Probably was good enough to turn pro, but decided that life style was not for the long range. Gardening out here(Waldport,OR) is mostly in boxes and hanging plants, as we are in the sand, and without additives, most non-native stuff struggles. We also do not get many "HOT" days. Over 70 is a heat wave. However, the ocean view is more than adequate compensation. It's only glass...enjoy From owner-glass Fri Apr 28 11:09:09 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0s4uT7-0000Xxa; Fri, 28 Apr 95 11:08 PDT X-Path: ednet1.osl.or.gov!erubin From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: all kinds of things Date: Fri, 28 Apr 1995 11:08:56 -0700 Message-ID: <199504281808.AA06291@ednet1.osl.or.gov> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Howard, again...Answers in order of ??? Dear Krisi, The spray will not cause the glass to crack when the light is on. The glass will heat slowly from the bulbs and should evaporate any moisture left on the glass. In order to get and keep a good CU patina...scrub the solder with a harsh non-meatlic scrubber, apply the patina with a soft brush until the solder coppers up. THEN use a polishing compound ( I use simichrome) on the solder. That should give you a bright CU finish, and the wax in the compound will protect the finish. For a simple and non-permanent polish for black patinaed solder, lemon oil type furniture polish or WD40 works, use it sparingly so the glass does not get sticky. There are fairly good carnuba polishes available from the SG suppliers. Spray on a rag first, then apply to the seams. Also on the market is (was) a Brass Patina finish, I have not tried it so I cannot comment as to its quality. It's only glass...enjoy From owner-glass Fri Apr 28 11:22:10 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0s4ufQ-0000dza; Fri, 28 Apr 95 11:21 PDT X-Path: ednet1.osl.or.gov!erubin From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Quiet Here Too Date: Fri, 28 Apr 1995 11:21:37 -0700 Message-ID: <199504281821.AA10442@ednet1.osl.or.gov> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Me again... Hello Laura, To quote a back east phrase"Macys does not tell Gimbles everything". I am a registered wholesaler, and make money reselling stuff to my following. Some of the wholesalers sell to anyone and have a different price for each level of purchasing. IMHO I feel that if I buy 200# of solder, I should be able to purchase a few cents better than if I bought 1#. The same for tools and glass by the case. I cut to size, accurately for my students, and supply unlimited info to them. Try this from a mail order house. I also do NOT bail out others who come to me with stuff I have not supplied and or want free help in my shop. My standard line is "ask for service from where you got it". I am not trying to browbeat here, but just stating how I view service to my patrons. If you get a resale #, you may have to guarantee a minimun or opening purchase, which usually eliminates most hobbiests. It's only glass...enjoy From owner-glass Fri Apr 28 11:27:50 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0s4ul7-0000ZLa; Fri, 28 Apr 95 11:27 PDT X-Path: mail.prodigy.com!MPGP79B From: MPGP79B@prodigy.com (PEGGY M PALM) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Quiet Date: Fri, 28 Apr 1995 13:12:40 EDT Message-ID: <013.05984361.MPGP79B@prodigy.com> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk -- [ From: Peggy Palm * EMC.Ver #2.10P ] -- Spring is adding to the chore list here in Vt. too. I still haven't gotten to my worktable despite all the good intentions. That gooseneck lamp (with detailed directions from Howard all printed out) is waiting. It seems like such a small, fast project, if I could only find the time to get started! Instead, here I am, clicking away a few free minutes at my addictive computer... It"s always nice to hear something about other folks on the list. It makes it more interesting to have a glimpse of who the person behind the note is, although I have to admit that it's hard to do! It feels like taking out an ad on the front page of a newspaper, and wondering who is reading it... There's probably a certain amount of email that we're sending to each other that doesn't make the list, and rightfully so. Is there a way that we can also keep the list more active? I know that there are people from the internet crafts newsgroup who have been looking for another forum for glass work. If any of you have made it here, won't you please join in? I'd enjoy hearing what projects other folks are working on or, like me, wishing they were working on! :-) Peggy From owner-glass Fri Apr 28 13:55:31 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0s4x3i-0000daa; Fri, 28 Apr 95 13:54 PDT X-Path: Camosun.BC.CA!COOPERD From: cooperd@Camosun.BC.CA To: GLASS@BUNGI.COM Subject: GLASS PURCHASES Date: Fri, 28 Apr 1995 13:34:39 -0800 (PST) Message-ID: <1995Apr28.53439.0> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Re: your message about where people go to make there glass puchases, I feel lucky here in little old Victoria, even though we only have one store its nice to go in there and browse, they sell glass, books patterns and just about everything to do with stain glass. The store is run by a family who are all invovled in the business, they are great people who are willing to help, I always spend too much when I go in there because everything is so tempting! Anyway, what do they charge for a sq ft of glass there, here its about $5.00 and $8 - $12 for the good stuff. Donna!!! From owner-glass Fri Apr 28 18:51:20 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0s51g0-0000T0a; Fri, 28 Apr 95 18:50 PDT X-Path: ednet1.osl.or.gov!erubin From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: GLASS PURCHASES Date: Fri, 28 Apr 1995 18:50:49 -0700 Message-ID: <199504290150.AA25173@ednet1.osl.or.gov> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Howard, here... Hello Donna, The few times we have gone norht past Seattle, we went to Victoria, BC and enjoyed the are a lot. It is a naet place to play tourist. I am not quite sure how your pricing for glass equates to US$. I generally sell Spectrum cut to accurate size for lamps from $5.75 to $9.50 for Irid pink. The exotic handmades such as Uro or Bullseye start from $13.50 to $21.00 for irid pink. Because most of the glass is not production, I will usually keep a piece in reserve until my buyer is finished with their project. For clients, I put a package of repair glass aside with the lamp# on it for future repairs. I mention that if the lamp is hurt and insured, the owner can insist on my making the repair(BIG BUCKS) on some. It is only glass...enjoy From owner-glass Fri Apr 28 20:54:30 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0s53bL-0000gZa; Fri, 28 Apr 95 20:53 PDT X-Path: compuserve.com!76531.71 From: "Teresa M. Vaughn" <76531.71@compuserve.com> To: "INTERNET:glass@bungi.com" Subject: stained glass mailing list Date: 28 Apr 95 23:52:19 EDT Message-ID: <1995Apr29.35219.0> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Donna told me about the stained glass mailing list. I am interested in participating. Teresa Glass Works INTERNET:76531,72@compuserve.com From owner-glass Sat Apr 29 11:04:33 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0s5Gs3-0000MNa; Sat, 29 Apr 95 11:03 PDT X-Path: idirect.com!mrum From: mrum@idirect.com (mike & carol) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: all kinds of things Date: Sat, 29 Apr 1995 14:27:49 -0400 Message-ID: <199504291827.OAA03886@lucid.idirect.com> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Hello everyone, this is Carol in Mississauga (the city Toronto is right beside). I have been monitoring this newsgroup for a couple of weeks now. Originally had put out an e-mail in a craft.misc newsgroup and someone was kind enough to e-mail me back about this group. Joined immediately. I have been working in glass for over 10 years now. (Has someone hit the fast-forward button on the VCR of life?) I've done my share of small sun-catchers, a 19inch Tiffany Baroque lamp for Mom, 2 bevelled chandeleirs (Byron) and 2 relatively plain kitchen lamps. Now, am working with a local day-care on a fund-raiser. You know how the schools take pictures of the children twice a year, I approached them about my making teddy-bear picture frames in glass capable of holding a 5x7 photo. A portion of the selling price goes back to the school. Well, set my price, set my goal, and am very pleased with the response. 2 samples are on display, sales are reasonable and the children's pictures haven't come back from the photographers!!!! Hopefully I will be innundated. > >. >In order to get and keep a good CU patina...scrub the solder with >a harsh non-meatlic scrubber, apply the patina with a soft brush >until the solder coppers up. THEN use a polishing compound ( I use >simichrome) on the solder. That should give you a bright CU finish, >and the wax in the compound will protect the finish. I clean the solder of flux as soon as I can, in some cases the solder is still warm. Using a toothbrush or small scrub brush and baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) and scrubbing every inch thoroughly removes the flux pretty well for me. Rather than a brush like Howard uses, I use a sponge to apply patina and then find using Kem-O-Pro Stained Glass Finishing compound on the glass and the solder and a good application of elbow grease gives a great shine to plain or patinaed(?) solder and makes the glass feel silky. In fact, I've almost stopped using the CU patina because it does turn color so easily. Prefer black, polished or not and plain silver. Never had a problem spraying directly on the glass. In fact, have let some pieces dry for a week before polishing and not had a problem. Yet. Can you tell me what successes you've had with craft shows? I can tell you about failures . . . . There is only Spectrum glass...enjoy talk to you later Carol From owner-glass Sat Apr 29 22:54:40 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0s5RqQ-0000Qra; Sat, 29 Apr 95 22:47 PDT X-Path: ednet1.osl.or.gov!erubin From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: all kinds of things Date: Sat, 29 Apr 1995 22:47:27 -0700 Message-ID: <199504300547.AA05142@ednet1.osl.or.gov> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Howard,here... Hello Carol, Glad you are enjoying the list. As for craft shows, I did Oregons ultimate, the Oregon State Fair as a working craftsman. The person doing dried flowers was selling them as fast as she could take money> I did only lamps and found that shows seemed not to draw high end buyers($75.00 and up). Because I do not do sun-catchers, I have no valid comments on sales of same. The orient can sell them for pennies to re-salers which makes it hard to undersell. My sales tyend to lean to large "Tiff" repros, with dragon flies and bright florals generally selling first. I show in some good areas where money may not be fisrt concern. AS for your "There is only Spectrum Glass" I hope you are kidding. It is for production pieces which I can duplicate from my card file and not have to guess at the glass. I would NOT do a major piece in anything other than hand-made exotic glass. That is what separates my work from the "cheap stuff". Being close to where the glass is made also helps in the selection. When you mail-order glass, the first sheet pulled is the one you get. I also lean towards the GOOD bronze bases for my "Tiff" shades, and match the base to the shade when possible. For the list in general, If any of you can get to see any of the Tiffany" reference books, spend some time looking at the lamps for color, phasing of color, how they look with the base, treatment of the same lamp in different pictures and grid row colors, the lack of symmetrical colors of repeats (sometimes flower petals and the next repeat may be a leaf or background). Many times colors run into each other, rather than specific delineation of patterns. Sorry, I kind of got carried away... It is ONLY glass...enjoy From owner-glass Sun Apr 30 09:30:50 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0s5bse-0000UEa; Sun, 30 Apr 95 09:30 PDT X-Path: mail.prodigy.com!YJGE26A From: YJGE26A@prodigy.com (MRS ELSIE M TURQMAN) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: suspend mail Date: Sun, 30 Apr 1995 12:04:25 EDT Message-ID: <013.06039139.YJGE26A@prodigy.com> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Please remove me from mailing list until further notice. I have enjoyed interaction but will out of touch for a couple ow weeks. yjge26a@prodigy. com Elsie Turqman From owner-glass Sun Apr 30 10:33:37 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0s5crq-00007Qa; Sun, 30 Apr 95 10:33 PDT X-Path: mail.prodigy.com!MPGP79B From: MPGP79B@prodigy.com (PEGGY M PALM) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Stained glass Date: Sun, 30 Apr 1995 13:27:20 EDT Message-ID: <013.06041382.MPGP79B@prodigy.com> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk -- [ From: Peggy Palm * EMC.Ver #2.10P ] -- Carol, as far as I'm concerned, the more people join, the more fun a list is. I've given the address to several folks on the internet crafts group. I wasn't the originator of this one. I joined as a result of checking the same newsgroup as you and replied to a message from Glenna, who had said that she had a way of starting a mailing list if there was interest. I was thrilled to see it start because I don't have a lot of glass contacts since the local shop closed. There is a professional studio doing architectural windows whose owner sells supplies on a limited basis, but there isn't a forum for discussion or instruction. This has turned out to be a great source of information for me, with some very nice and helpful people on line. I'm glad you're enjoying it, too. (By the way,your line about hitting fast- forward on the VCR of life is great. Says it all for me!) Peggy From owner-glass Sun Apr 30 11:06:23 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0s5dNV-0000MEa; Sun, 30 Apr 95 11:05 PDT X-Path: mail.prodigy.com!MPGP79B From: MPGP79B@prodigy.com (PEGGY M PALM) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: colors in Tiffanies Date: Sun, 30 Apr 1995 13:48:51 EDT Message-ID: <013.06042017.MPGP79B@prodigy.com> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk -- [ From: Peggy Palm * EMC.Ver #2.10P ] -- Howard, have you ever seen the Egon Neustadt classic "The Lamps of Tiffany"? I've seen it advertised for just short of $200, but am not willing to invest without some idea of what's in it. I got the local library to borrow a coffee table book "The Lamps of Tiffany Studios" by Duncan and Feldstein. Gorgeous photgraphy. I wasn't allowed to take it from the building, so could only take notes on use of color. I would like to have a good book of photos of Tiffany lamps for personal reference. Any recommendations as to which one from anyone? Thanks! Peggy From owner-glass Sun Apr 30 15:38:43 1995 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com (Smail3.1.28.1 #6) id m0s5hdH-0000Ona; Sun, 30 Apr 95 15:38 PDT X-Path: ednet1.osl.or.gov!erubin From: erubin@ednet1.osl.or.gov (Elaine Lea Rubin) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: colors in Tiffanies Date: Sun, 30 Apr 1995 15:38:57 -0700 Message-ID: <199504302238.AA18693@ednet1.osl.or.gov> Reply-To: glass@bungi.com Precedence: bulk Hello Peggy, Howard here, Personal stuff to come later, but for general consumption here goes...If you must make a choice, I feel Nuestadt's is far the better for pictures(more than one of a style) some history of the lamps, and a more accurate listing of complete units(correct shade to base). The Dunc-Feld book is shows fewer and only some of the flashier ones, with the correct base not always depicted with the shade. I CAN have a Nuestadt book shipped to you, and have you send me a check (maybe not in that order) for $185.00, as in some earlier correspondence, I am willing to take a small profit on sales that I would not usually have. To answer your ? on order of assembly, I cut all the pieces,(except) grid rows) lay the whole lamp out on a large light table(put smaller pieces of window glass on first so that you can remove them if necessary to get to the table for candling of other glass), look for color phasing, shading, dark under certain areas, overlapping of similar colors, and overall harmony. I then fit the top row, work down about a third, work across and back up. AT NO TIME are there any holes to fill. I usually have a few pieces ground that have ajoining pieces that fit and are foiled and tacked on the form. The unfoiled ones can be adjusted to fit where ever they meet the new pieces. If you take more than a month to solder use a oil based flux. Make sure to tin all exposed CU foil to help slow oxidation. It can be very difficult to select the glass for the grid rows, so have some plan in mind before starting out. More later as I will read the next mail shortly... It is only glass...enjoy