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Subject: Glenda Don't Miss Your Chance for Valiumm and Xanaxx Prozac.n;r r:
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Receive your pprescriptionn in a Discrete overnight package.
   quick delivery of Valiumm Xanaxxx Prozaccc at the cheapest prices


  
 
   http://sbrkjq@www.pharmacene.com/l/105/index.htm?glenda






   
 
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From owner-glass Mon Sep  1 17:11:35 2003
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Subject: Problem soldering zinc
Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2003 19:12:25 EDT
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-------------------------------1062457944
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Hello all,

I have never worked with H zinc before and am having problems.  I assembled a 
window with U zinc on the bottom, H zinc between the panes of glass and H 
lead around the top and sides.  The solder won't "attach" to the H zinc.  I 
didn't have problems where the U zinc met the lead or where the lead meets lead.  I 
didn't have a wire brush so I cleaned the zinc with a fine grit sandpaper for 
metal, I also switched fluxes and the brand of solder, no luck.

Any ideas? 

Thanks.

Pat

-------------------------------1062457944
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<HTML><HEAD>
<META charset=3DUTF-8 http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; charse=
t=3Dutf-8">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2600.0" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fffff=
f">
<DIV>Hello all,</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>I have never worked with H zinc before and am having problems.&nbsp; I=20=
assembled a window with U zinc on the bottom, H zinc between the panes of gl=
ass and H lead around the top and sides.&nbsp; The solder won't "attach" to=20=
the H zinc.&nbsp; I didn't have&nbsp;problems where the U zinc met the lead=20=
or where the lead meets lead.&nbsp; I didn't have a wire brush so I cleaned=20=
the zinc with a fine grit&nbsp;sandpaper for metal, I also switched fluxes a=
nd&nbsp;the&nbsp;brand of solder, no luck.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Any ideas?&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Thanks.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Pat</DIV></BODY></HTML>

-------------------------------1062457944--
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From owner-glass Mon Sep  1 18:12:26 2003
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We have received your message and will reply soon=2E
Thank you for contacting us=2E- 






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From owner-glass Tue Sep  2 03:11:55 2003
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Subject: Re: Problem soldering zinc
Date: Tue, 02 Sep 2003 01:27:36 -0400
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Pat,

Try holding your iron for about 10 seconds on the zinc before you apply any
solder. Heating the zinc up really well is supposed to help. That's all I
can think of, and must say I've never had a that problem. I wonder if your H
zinc could be contaminated in any way.

Suzanne


on 9/1/03 7:12 PM, CncptThnkr@aol.com at CncptThnkr@aol.com wrote:

> Hello all,
> 
> I have never worked with H zinc before and am having problems.  I assembled a
> window with U zinc on the bottom, H zinc between the panes of glass and H
> lead around the top and sides.  The solder won't "attach" to the H zinc.  I
> didn't have problems where the U zinc met the lead or where the lead meets
> lead.  I 
> didn't have a wire brush so I cleaned the zinc with a fine grit sandpaper for
> metal, I also switched fluxes and the brand of solder, no luck.
> 
> Any ideas? 
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> Pat
> 

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From owner-glass Tue Sep  2 08:11:42 2003
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Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2003 10:36:06 -0400
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hello
This is a autoresponse.

Please make a note that we have moved to:
Tropitek  /  BC Tropical Shell co.
107 - 5219 - 192nd Street, Surrey, BC, V3S8E5
Tel. 604-574-5060 Fax. 604-574-7060
thank you very much
Paul Sharpe
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www.basketwrap.com
www.cheapbaskets.com
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From owner-glass Tue Sep  2 09:12:13 2003
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Subject: Re: BUNGI - Problem soldering zinc
Date: Mon, 01 Sep 2003 21:38:29 +0000
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Hi Pat..

  There are a number of variables in your soldering zinc question.  What
sort of solder are you using?  Lead free?  Or 50/50, or 60/40, or even
63/37?  The sandpaper idea of cleaning isn't a bad idea.. but did you
wipe the sanded areas down with some sort of cleaner, like alcohol or
paint thinner?  When you finished the sanding, was the zinc really nice
and bright?  How big of an iron are you using?  While 80 watt is an
industry "standard", I've found them a bit wanting for soldering zinc, I
prefer a larger iron.. 200 watts or so myself.

  Try playing around on a scrap of zinc.. see what sort of combination
of solder, flux, and heat it takes for the solder to bond to the zinc. 
Zinc is formed, not extruded.. and for that reason there's more of a
"heat sink" effect when soldering the zinc, which requires much more
heat to do a decent job.

  You may also try not only sanding, but using some medium to fine steel
wool on the zinc, to better clean the area to be soldered.  The surface
of the zinc has a thin layer of zinc oxide on it, just as all of the
lead has a thin layer of lead oxide.  However, zinc oxide is much harder
than the lead is.. and thus may take a good bit more effort to remove it
so that you're soldering to the "virgin" metal.

  It can be done.. it may just require a bit more cleaning and fluxing,
and a larger iron to provide a bigger "volume" of heat to the joints.

  Peace  -Gerry Phibbs, IGGA
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From owner-glass Tue Sep  2 09:12:19 2003
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Subject: RE: Problem soldering zinc
Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2003 10:26:16 -0500
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References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@ptdprolog.net>>
Precedence: bulk

Since you're having trouble, you should try to get a brass brush to clean
the zinc thoroughly.  Since zinc H is used less frequently than the other
cames, it may have been on the shelf for a long time and oxidized.

If the brush doesn't work, a strong flux made with muriatic acid will work
(it's so strong, I think it always works.  USE CAUTION!).  We carry it in
the store but don't ship it.  If you have a store near you, you can ask
about it.

Joyce Sullivan
The Place For Cool Tools!
www.HarmonyStainedGlass.com
4416 Fairmont Parkway
Pasadena  TX  77504
Phone: 281-998-3381
Fax: 281-998-3392


-----Original Message-----
From: suzanne albright [mailto:suzi1025@ptdprolog.net]
Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2003 12:28 AM
To: bungi
Subject: Re: Problem soldering zinc


Pat,

Try holding your iron for about 10 seconds on the zinc before you apply any
solder. Heating the zinc up really well is supposed to help. That's all I
can think of, and must say I've never had a that problem. I wonder if your H
zinc could be contaminated in any way.

Suzanne


on 9/1/03 7:12 PM, CncptThnkr@aol.com at CncptThnkr@aol.com wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> I have never worked with H zinc before and am having problems.  I
assembled a
> window with U zinc on the bottom, H zinc between the panes of glass and H
> lead around the top and sides.  The solder won't "attach" to the H zinc.
I
> didn't have problems where the U zinc met the lead or where the lead meets
> lead.  I
> didn't have a wire brush so I cleaned the zinc with a fine grit sandpaper
for
> metal, I also switched fluxes and the brand of solder, no luck.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Pat
>

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From owner-glass Tue Sep  2 12:10:22 2003
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Subject: RE: Window
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12x60 feet? big window, and even bigger entrance. is it the entrance to a
warehouse? it'd weigh a few tons, and you'd have to find a really big table.
i'm not sure how you'd flip it to solder the back, or even install it
without making lots of smaller panels. about the largest foiled one that
i've ever seen was 8'x8' and it had a few large rebars in it.

regards,
charlie
cave creek, az
-----Original Message-----
From: Carolyn Taylor [mailto:carolynmt@se.rr.com]
Sent: Thursday, August 28, 2003 1:12 PM
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Window


I have a rectangle window with glass about 12'x60' above my entrance double
doors that I would like to  do in stained glass. Should this be done in
sections or one piece ?    

                                                                   Carolyn
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From owner-glass Tue Sep  2 13:11:14 2003
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Subject: RE: BUNGI - Problem soldering zinc
Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2003 12:15:28 -0700 
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> -----Original Message-----
> From: Gerry Phibbs [mailto:glasscutter@earthlink.net]
> Sent: Monday, September 01, 2003 2:38 PM
> To: CncptThnkr@aol.com; Glass@bungi.com
> Subject: Re: BUNGI - Problem soldering zinc
> 
> 
> Hi Pat..
> 
<snip>

> Zinc is formed, not extruded.. and for that reason there's more of a
> "heat sink" effect when soldering the zinc, which requires much more
> heat to do a decent job.
<snip>
> 

huh? how does the method of forming cause this? i would think it's the
melting temp difference between zinc and lead/tin, and the hardness, which
affect how much of a heat sink it is.

regards,
charlie
cave creek, az
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From owner-glass Tue Sep  2 14:16:08 2003
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From owner-glass Wed Sep  3 10:12:06 2003
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Subject: RE: BUNGI - Problem soldering zinc
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2003 09:17:30 -0700 
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Precedence: bulk

well, i'm not sure i buy that. you're talking about the surface area causing
the heat dissipation difference.

thought exercise: take a rod 1" in diameter. you can calculate the external
surface area pretty easily. take a 1 sqft piece of very thin zinc sheet.
roll it such that there is no interior surfaces. what is the surface area?

turns out to be the same. all the places the zinc touches conducts heat
between the two surfaces, since there is no air gap providing insulation.

i've never seen zinc H. if the leaves are pressed flat such that the heat
will conduct across it, then the surface area of the H made from either a
flat sheet or extruded will be the same. therefore, to my thinking, there
won't be any difference in the heat dissipation. there would be a difference
if the zinc H wasn't tightly folded, since an air gap would cause an
insulating effect between the leaves.

your argument about unfolding it and then measuring the heat dissipation
doesn't work, since you're not using it in that form when you're heating it.
metals have a specific heat absorption rate.

doing a google search on this topic reveals
http://www.jspeed.net/Forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=636 (see the 2nd comment
about the heat absorption for aluminum vs steel). i can't seem to find a
table on the different rates for different metals, but i'm sure there is
one.

regards,
charlie
cave creek, az

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Gerry Phibbs [mailto:glasscutter@earthlink.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2003 3:13 PM
> To: Spitzer, Charlie; glass@bungi.com
> Subject: Re: BUNGI - Problem soldering zinc
> 
> 
> Hi Charlie..
> 
>   To my way of thinking.. which is certainly open to debate.. 
> and heavy
> medication!..  If you were to take a piece of that H zinc, 
> and unfold it
> and flatten it out, you'd have a fair sized piece of fairly 
> thin zinc. 
> That's a lot of surface area there.. without a whole lot of 
> thickness to it.
> 
>   Now, any heat applied to that flattened out piece of zinc.. is very
> readily going to be drawn off over the piece, due to the considerable
> surface area.  Now, I do understand that when it's all formed up into
> the H, it's a bit more compact, and there are surfaces touching and so
> forth.  But, when compared to a solid H formed of lead, or brass, or
> even solid zinc.. there's far less surface area available, compared to
> the amount of material in the extrusion.
> 
>   So, for me, soldering formed zinc cames require a good bit more heat
> than a solid extrusion, simply because the proportion of 
> surface area to
> volume is so great.  The heat from the soldering iron simply 
> gets "drawn
> off" a good bit easier (and quicker), and without a large enough
> "reservoir" of heat from the iron, the metal never reaches the proper
> temperature to bond with the solder, even if the solder is melted onto
> the zinc first.  The result is a deposit of solder that can be flaked
> off fairly easily.
> 
>   So, that's my take on the issue.. the forming does make a difference
> in the way the heat from the iron is dissipated by the formed zinc,
> requiring more initial heat, and more of a heat "reservoir" 
> in the iron
> itself, to properly solder the material.
> 
>   Feel free to disagree with me.. I won't mind.. but after 
> working with
> the stuff.. that's my theory on why it's more difficult, and I'm
> sticking to it!  (grin)
> 
>   Peace  -Gerry
> 
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From owner-glass Wed Sep  3 20:17:35 2003
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From: "Timothy Atwood" <studios@holtenwood.bc.ca>
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Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2003 19:18:01 -0700
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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I am assuming you mean 12" X 60" (1' X 5').

Should not be a problem to have one section once installed. At only one =
foot wide it should not have a flexing or support problem. And the 5' =
high is not tall enough to cause a weight problem once installed =
vertically.

As a single window, you may have a little bit of trouble turning it over =
while you build it. You will need to support it well as you turn it =
over. If you try to simply flip it over by grabbing the edge and =
lifting, it will be difficult to do without a lot of flex over the 5' =
length. A lot of damaging flex.

If it fits your design, you may find it easier to build in sections.

If you want it in one section, make sure it is supported across the =
entire length when you moving it during manufacture and installation.

Timothy Atwood - Glass and Wood
Holtenwood Studios
http://www.holtenwood.bc.ca/studios/
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Carolyn Taylor=20
  To: glass@bungi.com=20
  Sent: Thursday, August 28, 2003 1:11 PM
  Subject: Window


  I have a rectangle window with glass about 12'x60' above my entrance =
double doors that I would like to  do in stained glass. Should this be =
done in sections or one piece ?   =20

                                                                     =
Carolyn
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<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1170" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I am assuming you mean 12" X 60" (1' X =
5').</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Should not be a problem to&nbsp;have one section =
once=20
installed. At only one foot wide it should not have a flexing or support =

problem. And the 5' high is not tall enough to cause a weight problem =
once=20
installed vertically.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>As a single window, you may have a little bit of =
trouble=20
turning it over while you build it. You will need to support it well as =
you turn=20
it over. If you try to simply flip it over by grabbing the edge and =
lifting, it=20
will be difficult to do without a lot of flex over the 5' length. A lot =
of=20
damaging flex.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>If it fits your design, you may find it easier to =
build in=20
sections.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>If you want it in one section, make sure it is =
supported=20
across the entire length when you moving it during manufacture and=20
installation.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Timothy Atwood - Glass and Wood<BR>Holtenwood =
Studios<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://www.holtenwood.bc.ca/studios/">http://www.holtenwood.bc.ca=
/studios/</A></FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A title=3Dcarolynmt@se.rr.com =
href=3D"mailto:carolynmt@se.rr.com">Carolyn=20
  Taylor</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=3Dglass@bungi.com=20
  href=3D"mailto:glass@bungi.com">glass@bungi.com</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Thursday, August 28, 2003 =
1:11=20
  PM</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Window</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I have a rectangle window with glass =
about=20
  12'x60' above my entrance double doors that I would like to&nbsp; do =
in=20
  stained glass. Should this be done in sections or one piece=20
  ?&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial=20
  =
size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbs=
p;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp=
;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&=
nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&n=
bsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
  Carolyn</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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Subject: .will u help or not?                                   wrwtkgf qkjgyomuiysrxcczh  zoucypjzdvjqbvcfcostufg vqebkgzlnimzu n jc
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Thank you for contacting the Chelsea House and Red Rooster Inn!

This is an automatic response to your request for information.  We will be answering your email personally within the next 4 hours.  If you need your information more quickly, please call us at 800-845-8859 or 800-845-0825 during business hours - 8:00am-9:00pm EST

Thanks

Jim Durbin
Proprietor
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Subject: Our next seminars dates
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Selling for Engineers

One-day Seminar


Edinburgh		Wed 	3rd September	2003
Gatwick			Thurs	25th September	2003
Amsterdam		Fri		3rd October		2003
Belfast			Wed 	8th October		2003
Dublin			Wed 	15th October	2003
Boston			Wed 	29th October	2003
Chicago			Mon		2nd November	2003
Dallas			Thurs	6th November	2003
San Jose		Wed		12th November	2003
Seattle			Fri		14th November	2003
Denver			Thurs	20th November	2003
Toronto			Tues	25th November	2003

The Selling for Engineers seminar is a good introduction to effective sales
principles for people who are new to selling, and also a useful refresher
for 'old hands'.  It applies to selling both technical products and
intangible services.

Many Sales Engineers have been learning the technical skills of their job
for years but have had little formal training in selling.  This course
helps correct that imbalance.  
Typical job titles of delegates: Sales Engineer, Account Executive and
Business Development Manager.

Fee for this event is £300.


Telephone Sales Prospecting for Engineers

One-day Workshop


Leeds		Mon		22nd September	2003
Belfast		Thurs 	9th October		2003
Dublin		Thurs 	16th October	2003

This event is a practical workshop teaching people in technical companies
how to find new customers on the phone.  It is applicable to business
development for both tangible products and intangible services.  The first
session addresses whom to target, what to say and how to handle problems. 
The remainder of the day consists of live sales calls with coaching from
Robert Seviour; the objective being to give delegates some positive
experiences of prospecting, make sales appointments and maybe sell
something!

Please note that this telephone sales prospecting event is restricted to a
maximum of six delegates to permit individual coaching.
Fee for this event is £300.


Closing Techniques Workshop

Half day workshop


Edinburgh		Wed 	4th September	2003
Birmingham		Fri		19th September	2003
Leeds			Tues	23rd September	2003
Gatwick			Fri		26th September	2003
Belfast			Fri 	10th October	2003
Dublin			Fri		17th October	2003
Boston			Thurs	30th October	2003
Chicago			Tues	3rd November	2003
Dallas			Fri		7th November	2003
San Jose		Thurs	13th November	2003
Seattle			Mon		17th November	2003
Denver			Fri		21st November	2003
Toronto			Wed		26th November	2003

What if the customer says:
"	"          'It's too expensive'
"	"          'We're happy with our present supplier'
"	"          'I want to think about it'
 
Can you handle these common objections?
By far the most efficient way to be more profitable is to turn more of the
enquiries you receive into paid orders.  For this, the ability to resolve
objections is critical - either you close or you lose the sale.
And if you answer 'How much discount will you give me?' with: 'I'll ask my
boss', you waste profit, which could be yours with a better reply.
 
In only half a day I will teach you techniques which overcome these
objections and more. You will be able to use them immediately to win
profitable orders.
 
There is no need to lose business to your competitors or give big
discounts. 
 
The price for the workshop is low, only £145. 
 
 
If you have never had any formal sales training or need a refresher, don't
continue to work at a disadvantage. 
 

Reservations and information
Please contact Sue on: 

Tel:  +44(0)1481 720 294     Fax: +44(0)1481 720 317

E mail robertseviour@totalise.co.uk or reply to this email with the subject
"Send info"

If sales training is not an issue for your company please reply to this
email with the word "DELETE"  in the subject line.     We will remove your
details promptly.

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------------ICJRATUJ36TRFX--


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To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Thu Sep 11 07:08:53 2003
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m19xRcr-0000NLa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Thu, 11 Sep 2003 06:36:45 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #540 built 2003-May-24)
X-Path: prudential.com!lucille.cava
From: lucille.cava@prudential.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: I must have been dropped...
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2003 09:33:55 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@prudential.com>
Precedence: bulk

Can you please add me back onto the mailing list

       lu1ubabie@att.net


Thank you in advance.

 Lucille


----
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To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
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From owner-glass Thu Sep 11 11:20:04 2003
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m19xVVd-0000Oma@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Thu, 11 Sep 2003 10:45:33 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #540 built 2003-May-24)
X-Path: holtenwood.bc.ca!studios
From: "Timothy Atwood" <studios@holtenwood.bc.ca>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Subject: Re:  The Daily Dish - Rempel Family Meatloaf
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2003 10:23:33 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@holtenwood.bc.ca>
References: <<m19xCvq-007uF7C@rdaver.bungi.com>>
Organization: Holtenwood Studios
Precedence: bulk

I hope everyone at Bungi had the sense to NOT open the attachment on the
original of the email below. There is absolutely no reason for a recipe to
be a ".pif" file. ".pif" files are executables and in emails usually contain
viruses. My McAfee with a virus dat only a week old did not catch it, so it
may be either a new virus or variant.

Timothy Atwood - Glass and Wood
Holtenwood Studios
http://www.holtenwood.bc.ca/studios/
Timothy Atwood
Holtenwood Computing
http://www.holtenwood.bc.ca/computing/

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Allrecipes" <daily-dish@plateautel.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 10, 2003 2:55 PM
Subject: The Daily Dish - Rempel Family Meatloaf


> <table width="100%" border="0" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0">
>
> <tr><td width="100%"><table width="100%" cellspacing=0 border=0
cellpadding=1><tr><td colspan="3" width="100%"><font
class="F10">&nbsp;</font></td></tr>
> <tr><td><a
href="http://rich.allrecipes.com/d/090103.asp?i=212&l=7&u=2352341&v=ddh"><im
g
src="http://emage.allrecipes.com/recipenotes/images/nwsltr/dailydish/shrimp_
asparagus_120x90.jpg" width="120" height=`<
>

----
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From owner-glass Thu Sep 11 12:15:51 2003
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m19xWVu-0000Ika@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Thu, 11 Sep 2003 11:49:54 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #540 built 2003-May-24)
X-Path: lvcm.com!ejr929
From: "Ed Rogers" <ejr929@lvcm.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
	boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0011_01C37859.90F69F10"
Subject: Unsubscribe - Fourth Request
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2003 11:40:57 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@lvcm.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@prudential.com>>
Precedence: bulk

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C37859.90F69F10
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

This is the FOURTH request I have made over the past several weeks, and =
you still have not taken me off your list.  What do I have to do to get =
off this mailing list?  Just who is in charge of this list, and why =
don't you honor my request?

=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
Ed Rogers
ejr929@cox.net
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C37859.90F69F10
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1226" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT color=3D#000080 size=3D6>This is the <FONT =
color=3D#ff0000>FOURTH=20
</FONT>request I have made over the past several weeks, and you still =
have not=20
taken me off your list.&nbsp; What do I have to do to get off this =
mailing=20
list?&nbsp; Just who is in charge of this list, and why don't you honor =
my=20
request?</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT color=3D#000080 =
size=3D6>=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D<BR>Ed =
Rogers<BR><A=20
href=3D"mailto:ejr929@cox.net">ejr929@cox.net</A><BR>=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D</FONT></STRONG></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C37859.90F69F10--


----
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To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Thu Sep 11 15:28:50 2003
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m19xZfN-0000QIa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Thu, 11 Sep 2003 15:11:53 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #540 built 2003-May-24)
X-Path: holtenwood.bc.ca!studios
From: "Timothy Atwood" <studios@holtenwood.bc.ca>
To: "Ed Rogers" <ejr929@lvcm.com>,
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
	boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0071_01C37875.CB2F7E60"
Subject: Re: Unsubscribe - Fourth Request
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2003 15:03:01 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@holtenwood.bc.ca>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@lvcm.com>>
Organization: Holtenwood Studios
Precedence: bulk

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0071_01C37875.CB2F7E60
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

As per the bottom of every message you have been receiving from this =
list:

"For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com"

1) As another list subscriber with no connection to the people running =
this list I must ask: Why are you subjecting everyone else on this list =
to your over emphasized and rude emails? Especially when you are sending =
your requests to the wrong place? Especially when the correct place is =
listed in everything sent from this list?

2) Although I do not in any way administer this list, I do know it is =
administered by volunteers who do it out of the goodness of their hearts =
and their love for glass. They receive nothing in return. So even if you =
have been sending your requests to the correct place, it is still rude =
to act this way to volunteers who take care of this sort of work on =
there own time for no financial return.

3) Have you checked the email headers of the messages your are =
receiving? Are they truly coming from Bungi? The Sobig.F virus disguises =
many it's emails with a spoofed "from address". For some reason, the =
bungi email address seems to be picked up frequently for these spoofed =
from addresses. It is possible you are already un-subscribed and the =
messages are really coming from someone infected by Sobig.F. If the =
message is truly from Bungi, the original "received from" in the email =
header will be "daver.bungi.com". If it is not, please direct your =
comments to the ISP and or server of the person who is sending out the =
spoofed emails.

4) If this is really bothering you this much, why don't you set up an =
email rule to handle it? In less time than it took to format your =
message below with all those red letters and junk, you could have set up =
an email rule to delete any message from bungi from your ISP's server =
before they are ever delivered to you. This would take care of both your =
subscription problems (if any) and any spoofed Bungi email addresses.

I will thank you to be more patient and pay attention to who/what/where =
you are sending your rude emails to next time.
- Tim Atwood
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Ed Rogers=20
  To: glass@bungi.com=20
  Sent: Thursday, September 11, 2003 11:40 AM
  Subject: Unsubscribe - Fourth Request


  This is the FOURTH request I have made over the past several weeks, =
and you still have not taken me off your list.  What do I have to do to =
get off this mailing list?  Just who is in charge of this list, and why =
don't you honor my request?

  =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
  Ed Rogers
  ejr929@cox.net
  =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
------=_NextPart_000_0071_01C37875.CB2F7E60
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1170" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>As per the bottom of every message you have been =
receiving=20
from this list:</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>"For subscription changes, please mail to: <A=20
href=3D"mailto:glass-request@bungi.com">glass-request@bungi.com</A>"</DIV=
>
<DIV><BR><FONT size=3D2>1) As another list subscriber with no connection =
to the=20
people running this list I must ask: Why are you subjecting everyone =
else on=20
this list to your over emphasized and rude emails? Especially when you =
are=20
sending your requests to the wrong place? Especially when the correct =
place is=20
listed in everything sent from this list?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>2) Although I do not in any way administer this =
list, I do=20
know it is administered by volunteers who do it out of the goodness of =
their=20
hearts and their love for glass. They receive nothing in return. So even =
if you=20
have been sending your requests to the correct place, it is still rude =
to act=20
this way to volunteers who take care of this sort of work on there own =
time for=20
no financial return.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>3) Have you checked the email headers of the =
messages your are=20
receiving? Are they truly coming from Bungi? The Sobig.F virus disguises =
many=20
it's emails with a spoofed "from address". For some reason, the bungi =
email=20
address seems to be picked up frequently for these spoofed from=20
addresses.&nbsp;It is possible you are already un-subscribed and the =
messages=20
are really coming from someone infected by Sobig.F. If the message is =
truly from=20
Bungi, the original "received from" in the email header will be=20
"daver.bungi.com". If it is not, please direct your comments to =
the&nbsp;ISP and=20
or server of the person who is sending out the spoofed =
emails.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>4) If this is really bothering you this much, why =
don't you=20
set up an email rule to handle it? In less time than it took to format =
your=20
message below with all those red letters and junk, you could have set up =
an=20
email rule to delete any message from bungi from your ISP's server =
before they=20
are ever delivered to you. This would take care of both your =
subscription=20
problems (if any) and any spoofed Bungi email addresses.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I will thank you to be more patient and pay =
attention to=20
who/what/where you are sending your rude emails to next =
time.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>- Tim Atwood</FONT></DIV></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A title=3Dejr929@lvcm.com href=3D"mailto:ejr929@lvcm.com">Ed =
Rogers</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=3Dglass@bungi.com=20
  href=3D"mailto:glass@bungi.com">glass@bungi.com</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Thursday, September 11, =
2003 11:40=20
  AM</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Unsubscribe - Fourth=20
  Request</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV>
  <DIV><STRONG><FONT color=3D#000080 size=3D6>This is the <FONT =
color=3D#ff0000>FOURTH=20
  </FONT>request I have made over the past several weeks, and you still =
have not=20
  taken me off your list.&nbsp; What do I have to do to get off this =
mailing=20
  list?&nbsp; Just who is in charge of this list, and why don't you =
honor my=20
  request?</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><STRONG><FONT color=3D#000080 =
size=3D6>=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D<BR>Ed =
Rogers<BR><A=20
  =
href=3D"mailto:ejr929@cox.net">ejr929@cox.net</A><BR>=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D</FONT></STRONG></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>=


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From owner-glass Thu Sep 11 17:09:12 2003
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Dear Ed,

I agree with everything Tim Atwood said.  You have acted like a clod. 

Carolyn Gilinsky
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From owner-glass Fri Sep 12 15:14:02 2003
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Subject: Register For A Free Gift to be given away September 30, 2003
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2003 16:48:34
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<BODY bgColor=#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Hi</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>&nbsp;</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>     I would love for you to take a look at Karen's Gift Shop. With every order </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>you will receive a free catalog with over 3000 items in it.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>&nbsp;</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>     Make sure you register with us so that you will be eligible for our free </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>drawing.  No purchase required to enter the free drawing. All you have to</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>do is go to  Karen's Gift Shop and register. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>&nbsp;</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>    This month we are giving away item #99104. This is a set of 5 quarter</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>bears. The set includes Illinois, Alabama, Maine, Missouri and Arkansas.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>This makes a great gift for the person who collects the new</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>quarters. When you go to the web site you will see a picture of them.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>&nbsp;</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>                      http://www.karensgiftshop.com  </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>&nbsp;</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>  If you have any questions or comments I would love to hear from you. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>You can e-mail me at</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>&nbsp;</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>   If you don't want to get these letters anymore please send an email to </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>us with  unsubscribe in the subject line.........................................  </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>                </FONT></DIV>
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From owner-glass Sat Sep 13 05:38:55 2003
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Subject: Re:Need Help with Cabinet Doors.
Date: Sat, 13 Sep 2003 06:44:45 EDT
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>
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--part1_3f.22020900.2c944f1d_boundary
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Hi All,

Hope everyone is doing well.  I have two cabinet doors to make. They have an 
arch at the top. I have done rectangular ones before and have had no problem.  
The base of the door is squared.  When it comes to the upper part from the 
outside lines it comes in about two inches before the arch starts. The arch 
itself is about three inches high from the top horizontal line. I have drawn two 
patterns and neither one fit when it came to the arch. This really has me 
puzzled. What am I doing wrong? Thanks in advance.

Your friend in glass,

Ken O
Decorative Glass


 

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<HTML><FONT FACE=3Darial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=3D2 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=
=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0">Hi All,<BR>
<BR>
Hope everyone is doing well.&nbsp; I have two cabinet doors to make. They ha=
ve an arch at the top. I have done rectangular ones before and have had no p=
roblem.&nbsp; The base of the door is squared.&nbsp; When it comes to the up=
per part from the outside lines it comes in about two inches before the arch=
 starts. The arch itself is about three inches high from the top horizontal=20=
line. I have drawn two patterns and neither one fit when it came to the arch=
. This really has me puzzled. What am I doing wrong? Thanks in advance.<BR>
<BR>
Your friend in glass,<BR>
<BR>
Ken O<BR>
Decorative Glass<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
 </FONT></HTML>

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From owner-glass Sat Sep 13 08:55:14 2003
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X-Path: stainedglass.co.uk!studio
From: "studio@stainedglass.co.uk" <studio@stainedglass.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re:Need Help with Cabinet Doors.
Date: Sat, 13 Sep 2003 14:29:40 +0100
Message-ID: <20030913132940.VFPY3505.mta01-svc.ntlworld.com@sn010947420129>
Precedence: bulk

At 06:44 13/09/2003 EDT, Ken O wrote:
>Hi All,
>
>Hope everyone is doing well.  I have two cabinet doors to make. They have an
>arch at the top. I have done rectangular ones before and have had no problem.
>The base of the door is squared.  When it comes to the upper part from the
>outside lines it comes in about two inches before the arch starts. The arch
>itself is about three inches high from the top horizontal line. I have
drawn two
>patterns and neither one fit when it came to the arch. This really has me
>puzzled. What am I doing wrong? 

The easiest way to get the right shape for an arched cabinet door would be
to lay or tape (depending on whether you can remove the door or have to work
in situ) a large piece of paper over the opening on the side the glass will
fit (usually the back) and mark where the little ledge (rebate) onto which
the panel will be fitted comes.  Press firmly with your fingers or thumbs
and you should see an intendation showing where this is that you can draw
over with a marker to make it more visible.

Then stick this to a large piece of cardboard or wood (something that will
not bend too much) and cut around the shape so you have it cut out in a
stiff material.  This is your template.  Then try to fit the template where
the panel will go onto the back of the door.  You may need to adjust it at
this stage.  Dont be tempted to bend it to wiggle it into place as your
panel wont do this!!

Once you can see it is the correct shape use a marker to mark on the
template where the frame of the door overlaps the template on the front of
the door.  This will show how much of the panel will be visible when fitted
and aloow you to decide what width of lead came to use on the outside edge
of your panel.  Decide whether you want to see the edging or not and use a
width that suits this.

Now you can draw your design onto this template or use the template to draw
the shape on another piece of paper.

You should try the template into both door openings and check for fit and
overlap as they will not necessarily be exactly the same!!

If your panels are exactly or a smidgen smaller than the template(s) they
will fit.

Regards
Elizabeth in Bournemouth
http://www.stainedglass.co.uk


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From owner-glass Sat Sep 13 13:17:06 2003
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X-Path: mindspring.com!jesulli
From: "Joyce Sullivan" <jesulli@mindspring.com>
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Subject: RE: Need Help with Cabinet Doors.
Date: Sat, 13 Sep 2003 12:59:28 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@mindspring.com>
References: <<20030913132940.VFPY3505.mta01-svc.ntlworld.com@sn010947420129>>
Precedence: bulk

Elizabeth -

That was an excellent description on how to make a template.  I would like
to add that you should mark the front on the template because it might not
fit if it's turned around.

Joyce Sullivan
The Place For Cool Tools!
www.HarmonyStainedGlass.com
4416 Fairmont Parkway
Pasadena  TX  77504
Phone: 281-998-3381
Toll-Free:  866-998-3381
Fax: 281-998-3392


-----Original Message-----
From: studio@stainedglass.co.uk [mailto:studio@stainedglass.co.uk]
Sent: Saturday, September 13, 2003 8:30 AM
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re:Need Help with Cabinet Doors.


At 06:44 13/09/2003 EDT, Ken O wrote:
>Hi All,
>
>Hope everyone is doing well.  I have two cabinet doors to make. They have
an
>arch at the top. I have done rectangular ones before and have had no
problem.
>The base of the door is squared.  When it comes to the upper part from the
>outside lines it comes in about two inches before the arch starts. The arch
>itself is about three inches high from the top horizontal line. I have
drawn two
>patterns and neither one fit when it came to the arch. This really has me
>puzzled. What am I doing wrong?

The easiest way to get the right shape for an arched cabinet door would be
to lay or tape (depending on whether you can remove the door or have to work
in situ) a large piece of paper over the opening on the side the glass will
fit (usually the back) and mark where the little ledge (rebate) onto which
the panel will be fitted comes.  Press firmly with your fingers or thumbs
and you should see an intendation showing where this is that you can draw
over with a marker to make it more visible.

Then stick this to a large piece of cardboard or wood (something that will
not bend too much) and cut around the shape so you have it cut out in a
stiff material.  This is your template.  Then try to fit the template where
the panel will go onto the back of the door.  You may need to adjust it at
this stage.  Dont be tempted to bend it to wiggle it into place as your
panel wont do this!!

Once you can see it is the correct shape use a marker to mark on the
template where the frame of the door overlaps the template on the front of
the door.  This will show how much of the panel will be visible when fitted
and aloow you to decide what width of lead came to use on the outside edge
of your panel.  Decide whether you want to see the edging or not and use a
width that suits this.

Now you can draw your design onto this template or use the template to draw
the shape on another piece of paper.

You should try the template into both door openings and check for fit and
overlap as they will not necessarily be exactly the same!!

If your panels are exactly or a smidgen smaller than the template(s) they
will fit.

Regards
Elizabeth in Bournemouth
http://www.stainedglass.co.uk


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From owner-glass Wed Sep 17 16:10:58 2003
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X-Path: sympatico.ca!stephen5
From: "karen kovacs" <stephen5@sympatico.ca>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
	boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0015_01C37D4B.06050F80"
Subject: COPPER
Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2003 18:39:27 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@sympatico.ca>
Precedence: bulk

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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HI, FOLKS,  CAN ANYONE OUT THERE TELL ME WHERE I CAN GET COPPER WIRE =
(THICK) TO USE IN MY WORK.   IT'S VERY EXPENSIVE AT HARDWARE STORES AND =
I CAN ONLY FIND ROLLS OF THIN COPPER AT THE STAINED GLASS STORES HERE.   =
I HAD FOUND A LOT OF IT AT A YARD SALE BUT USED IT ALL.  HAD TO TAKE THE =
INSULATION OFF BUT WAS WORTH IT.

THANKS,  KAREN KOVACS, CANADA

------=_NextPart_000_0015_01C37D4B.06050F80
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2600.0" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial><STRONG>HI, FOLKS,&nbsp; CAN ANYONE OUT THERE =
TELL ME=20
WHERE I CAN GET COPPER WIRE (THICK) TO USE IN MY WORK.&nbsp;&nbsp; IT'S =
VERY=20
EXPENSIVE AT HARDWARE STORES AND I CAN ONLY FIND ROLLS OF THIN COPPER AT =
THE=20
STAINED GLASS STORES HERE.&nbsp;&nbsp; I HAD FOUND A LOT OF IT AT A YARD =
SALE=20
BUT USED IT ALL.&nbsp; HAD TO TAKE THE INSULATION OFF BUT WAS WORTH=20
IT.</STRONG></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=3DArial></FONT></STRONG>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=3DArial>THANKS,&nbsp; KAREN KOVACS,=20
CANADA</FONT></STRONG></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-glass Wed Sep 17 18:10:35 2003
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	for rglass-42; Wed, 17 Sep 2003 18:01:39 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #540 built 2003-May-24)
X-Path: stratus.com!Charlie.Spitzer
From: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie.Spitzer@stratus.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Subject: RE: COPPER
Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2003 16:13:36 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@stratus.com>
Precedence: bulk

metal salvage or scrap yards.

regards,
charlie
cave creek, az

ps: your caps lock key is stuck on

-----Original Message-----
From: karen kovacs [mailto:stephen5@sympatico.ca]
Sent: Wednesday, September 17, 2003 3:39 PM
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: COPPER


HI, FOLKS,  CAN ANYONE OUT THERE TELL ME WHERE I CAN GET COPPER WIRE (THICK)
TO USE IN MY WORK.   IT'S VERY EXPENSIVE AT HARDWARE STORES AND I CAN ONLY
FIND ROLLS OF THIN COPPER AT THE STAINED GLASS STORES HERE.   I HAD FOUND A
LOT OF IT AT A YARD SALE BUT USED IT ALL.  HAD TO TAKE THE INSULATION OFF
BUT WAS WORTH IT.

THANKS,  KAREN KOVACS, CANADA
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From owner-glass Wed Sep 17 20:09:38 2003
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	for rglass-42; Wed, 17 Sep 2003 19:48:11 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #540 built 2003-May-24)
X-Path: glastar.com!lmitchell
From: Lori J. Mitchell <lmitchell@glastar.com>
To: Timothy Atwood <studios@holtenwood.bc.ca>,  <glass@bungi.com>
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain
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Subject: re[2]:  The Daily Dish - Rempel Family Meatloaf
Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2003 19:45:40 -0700
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Organization: Glastar Corporation
Precedence: bulk

Dear Bungi Friends,=20
=20
Although I have sophisticated anti-virus programs, my 'IT' guy (who charges me =
far to much money, 'I think') told me not to open any attachments with the =
labels vbs, bat, exe, pif, or scr.  These are well known to have bugs, so =
everyone at Glastar has these posted on their computers.

Thank you,=20

Lori Mitchell
Chief Executive Officer
Glastar Corporation
www.glastar.com

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From owner-glass Wed Sep 17 21:10:00 2003
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	for rglass-42; Wed, 17 Sep 2003 20:14:43 -0700 (PDT)
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From: "MB" <mbeisner@charter.net>
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Subject: Re: COPPER
Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2003 22:06:21 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@charter.net>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@sympatico.ca>>
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Hey Karen
Go to a big home improvement place, in the electrical aisle, they should =
have ground wire in 4,6, and 8 gauge.  I'll warn you, this is pretty =
heavy stuff but it's 100% copper, no coating, no insulation, and nothing =
to mess with before using it.  I stay away from the 4 gauge, can't cut =
it!  I use an old lead dykes to cut the other stuff and if I get weak, I =
just "score" it, then bend it back and forth a few times till it breaks. =
 If you want to tin it, flux it good and use your biggest iron on the =
highest setting and it works like a charm.  It's available in whole 500 =
ft rolls here as well as by the foot.  I just buy the whole rolls and it =
costs about $50-60 (US), don't know what it is by the foot.  If you're =
looking for a lighter gauge, in the same aisle look for stranded ground =
wire.  Again, no coating, no insulation, just 100% copper.  It will =
probably have 7 strands of wire so you have to unwind them but the =
individual strands are probably around a 12, maybe 14 gauge.  By you, =
they might have different stuff but you should be able to find =
something.  If nothing else, here's a link to a online place.  Never =
ordered from them but what they have sounds good and you don't have to =
buy a million rolls of it.   http://onlinemetals.com/  Of course now =
that I look, I didn't see the wire section but they might have it.  Of =
the online places, YGlass.com has the best price I've seen so far for =
the pre-tinned stuff, their shipping is a bit slow but at least the wire =
is cheap.  I think I saved about 50% compared to getting it at the sg =
shop by me.  Hope this helps, have a good search!  Later, Mary
------=_NextPart_000_0008_01C37D67.ED510800
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</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DGeorgia size=3D4>Hey Karen</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DGeorgia size=3D4>Go to a big home improvement place, =
in the=20
electrical aisle, they should have ground wire in 4,6, and 8 =
gauge.&nbsp; I'll=20
warn you, this is pretty heavy stuff but it's 100% copper, no coating, =
no=20
insulation, and nothing to mess with before using it.&nbsp; I stay away =
from the=20
4 gauge, can't cut it!&nbsp; I use an old lead dykes to cut the other =
stuff and=20
if I get weak, I just "score" it, then bend it back and forth a few =
times till=20
it breaks.&nbsp; If you want to tin it, flux it good and use your =
biggest iron=20
on the highest setting and it works like a charm.&nbsp; It's available =
in whole=20
500 ft rolls here as well as by the foot.&nbsp; I just buy the whole =
rolls and=20
it costs about $50-60 (US), don't know what it is by the foot.&nbsp; If =
you're=20
looking for a lighter gauge, in the same aisle look for stranded ground=20
wire.&nbsp; Again, no coating, no insulation, just 100% copper.&nbsp; It =
will=20
probably have 7 strands of wire so you have to unwind them but the =
individual=20
strands are probably around a 12, maybe 14 gauge.&nbsp; By you, they =
might have=20
different stuff but you should be able to find something.&nbsp; If =
nothing else,=20
here's a link to a online place.&nbsp; Never ordered from them but what =
they=20
have sounds good and you don't have to buy a million rolls of =
it.&nbsp;&nbsp; <A=20
href=3D"http://onlinemetals.com/">http://onlinemetals.com/</A>&nbsp; Of =
course now=20
that I look, I didn't see the wire section but they might have it.&nbsp; =
Of the=20
online places, YGlass.com has the best price I've seen so far for the =
pre-tinned=20
stuff, their shipping is a bit slow but at least the wire is =
cheap.&nbsp; I=20
think I saved about 50% compared to getting it at the sg shop by =
me.&nbsp; Hope=20
this helps, have a good search!&nbsp; Later, =
Mary</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0008_01C37D67.ED510800--

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From owner-glass Wed Sep 17 22:13:08 2003
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	for rglass-42; Wed, 17 Sep 2003 21:17:10 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #540 built 2003-May-24)
X-Path: sympatico.ca!ron.amero
From: "Ron Amero" <ron.amero@sympatico.ca>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Mime-Version: 1.0
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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Subject: RE: re[2]:  The Daily Dish - Rempel Family Meatloaf
Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 00:11:26 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@sympatico.ca>
References: <<m19zokM-007uIWC@rdaver.bungi.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Buy "your IT guy" a coffee.  He has saved you much grief and money and
downtime.  Files with these attachments often ARE the bugs in disguise; they
are executables that run and do their evil thing when opened or double
clicked. And don't give in to curiosity to see what's in the attachment!
Just delete it.


-----Original Message-----
From: Lori J. Mitchell [mailto:lmitchell@glastar.com]
Sent: Wednesday, September 17, 2003 10:46 PM
To: Timothy Atwood; glass@bungi.com
Subject: re[2]: The Daily Dish - Rempel Family Meatloaf

Dear Bungi Friends,

Although I have sophisticated anti-virus programs, my 'IT' guy (who charges
me far to much money, 'I think') told me not to open any attachments with
the labels vbs, bat, exe, pif, or scr.  These are well known to have bugs,
so everyone at Glastar has these posted on their computers.

Thank you,

Lori Mitchell
Chief Executive Officer
Glastar Corporation
www.glastar.com

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From owner-glass Thu Sep 18 23:20:12 2003
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	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #540 built 2003-May-24)
X-Path: earthlink.net!glasscutter
From: Gerry Phibbs <glasscutter@earthlink.net>
To: karen kovacs <stephen5@sympatico.ca>, glass@bungi.com
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
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Subject: Bungi - Re: COPPER
Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 21:58:50 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@earthlink.net>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@sympatico.ca>>
Precedence: bulk

Hi Karen..

  What is "thick" in your terms?  Copper wire is sized by the AWG gauge
of the wire.. meaning there are number values to each size.  The smaller
the number, the larger the wire.  For example, #4 wire is really pretty
thick.. like almost the size of a regular pencil, if you can find it in
solid wire.  As I recall, #6 was the largest solid wire commonly
available.. bigger than that is usually stranded.  Number 36 wire.. is
about as fine as hair.. so there's a big difference in there.

  I don't know what it is you've been buying.. but if you're buying #14
or #16 copper wire in those little plastic "handy packs" at the hardware
store.. yes.. that's a bit overpriced for what it is.  That material is
marketed that way for hobbyist and craftspeople, as well as a number of
mechanical repairs.

  Visit the "service" department of your local independent hardware
store, where they sell electrical wire by the foot.  Typically, the
sizes in stock will be #14, #12, and perhaps #10 and #8 - much depends
on the individual store, and what local building codes are.. I have no
clue as to what they may be in Canada.. for all I know they're sized in
metric and French?  (grin)

  There are basically two ways to go.  If #14 or #12 is the size you're
looking for.. first look at the "NM Plastic coated" house wiring cable. 
This stuff is typically designated 14-2 NM, or 12-2 NM (NM = non
metallic)  Underneath that (typically) white plastic jacket, are three
wires, one with a black plastic cover, one with a white plastic cover,
and one bare wire in the middle.  All three wires are exactly the same
size, the bare wire is used for a ground in electrical applications.

  Now, NM wire is really a low margin item.. it's promoted and is
typically competitively priced, and is available in ready cut rolls,
usually 25 feet, 50 feet, or 100 feet.  A contractors full roll is
usually 250 feet.  I can't recall pricing at the moment.. but the price
is usually fairly cheap per foot, and each foot of NM cable contains
three wires.  Yes, it will require that you strip off the plastic
jacket, and strip the coated wires.. but that's really no big deal.. for
glass work you'll typically be using a few feet at any given time, not
hundreds of feet.  It's a reasonable and relatively inexpensive way to
get the wire, at least in #12 or #14 (smaller) size.

  If that doesn't appeal to you.. look for some "bare" grounding wire. 
Typically this is #8 in gauge, since that's what's code for electrical
panel grounding.  It's just plain copper wire, on a large spool. 
However, because it's for a specific use, and is NOT a price sensitive
item, you may well find that prices will vary all over the place.  But,
#8 is a fair sized chunk of wire as well, and that's possibly what
you're after.

  If you're looking for something larger, at a lower price.. consider
copper refrigeration tubing, it's typically available in 3/16" and 1/4"
sizes.. and it's much cheaper than a solid copper wire of similar size. 
In my experience, the tubing does a very good job of reinforcement,
without the extra expense or hassle in bending it.  In times when I've
been really concerned.. I have run a section of solid wire down inside
the tubing.. that's an extremely strong sort of reinforcement, but it's
not necessary most of the time.

  Good luck, and..

  Peace  -Gerry, IGGA
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From owner-glass Fri Sep 19 01:15:38 2003
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X-Path: stainedglass.co.uk!studio
From: "studio@stainedglass.co.uk" <studio@stainedglass.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Bungi : wire sizes
Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2003 08:34:55 +0100
Message-ID: <20030919073455.QXHE2405.mta06-svc.ntlworld.com@sn010947420129>
Precedence: bulk

If anyone is not sure how to tell what thickness any wire is likely to be
from its SWG (AWG in USA I think) #, here is something I was told that
helped me to get it straight in my head.

The number - 12, 6, 20 etc relates to the number of lengths of that
thickness of wire you would get in an inch if you laid lots of lengths
alongside each other.

So #12 wire is one twelfth of an inch in diameter, #6 is one sixth of an
inch, #20 is one twentieth of an inch and so on.

Regards
Elizabeth in Bournemouth
http://www.stainedglass.co.uk


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From owner-glass Fri Sep 19 15:18:51 2003
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X-Path: nbnet.nb.ca!rcraft
From: "Reg Craft" <rcraft@nbnet.nb.ca>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0176_01C36F4B.8618ABE0
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I am getting too many viruses from the list.  Please unsubscribe me at =
once. =20

------=_NextPart_000_0176_01C36F4B.8618ABE0
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2600.0" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I am getting too many viruses from the =
list.&nbsp;=20
Please unsubscribe me at once.&nbsp; </FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-glass Fri Sep 19 15:19:14 2003
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X-Path: peak.org!inhockdeep
From: "InHockDeep" <inhockdeep@peak.org>
To: "bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Mime-Version: 1.0
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	boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0134_01C37EBB.8C0C3420"
Subject: messages from microsoft (NOT)
Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2003 14:37:26 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@peak.org>
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0134_01C37EBB.8C0C3420
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seeing as how I still am on the list.............

If you get any email from "microsoft" with an attachment DO NOT OPEN IT!

I got a few last evening, and assumed a virus was in it.

be aware......perusing the newsgroups seemed to have confirmed this

h
To Email Elaine or Howard USE: weaver51@peak.org
To Email Howard ONLY USE: inhockdeep@peak.org


------=_NextPart_000_0134_01C37EBB.8C0C3420
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1226" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS">seeing as how I still am on the=20
list.............</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS"></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS">If you get any email from "microsoft" =
with an=20
attachment DO NOT OPEN IT!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS"></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS">I got a few last evening, and assumed =
a virus=20
was in it.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS"></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS">be aware......perusing the newsgroups =
seemed to=20
have confirmed this</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS">h</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS">To Email Elaine or Howard USE: <A=20
href=3D"mailto:weaver51@peak.org">weaver51@peak.org</A><BR>To Email =
Howard ONLY=20
USE: <A =
href=3D"mailto:inhockdeep@peak.org">inhockdeep@peak.org</A></FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS"></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-glass Fri Sep 19 18:12:24 2003
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	for rglass-42; Fri, 19 Sep 2003 16:27:17 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #540 built 2003-May-24)
X-Path: holtenwood.bc.ca!studios
From: "Timothy Atwood" <studios@holtenwood.bc.ca>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Mime-Version: 1.0
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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Subject: Re: unsubscribe
Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2003 16:15:08 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@holtenwood.bc.ca>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@nbnet.nb.ca>>
Organization: Holtenwood Studios
Precedence: bulk

You may want to send your request to glass-request@bungi.com . You will get
faster response than through the list itself.

Unsubscribing probably will not help though. Those virus emails are not
really coming from the list. Most of the worms and viruses spreading right
now "spoof" the return address. What you see as the "from" address is not
the real source. The "From" address has been culled from an infected
computer just as much as your "To" address has been.

The four most prevalent viruses right now all use spoofed "From" email
addresses. They are:
Sobig.F
Swen
Dumaru.a
Yaha.y

It is a sort of sideways compliment to the bungi list that it is getting
picked up as much as it is. There must be one heck of a lot of current or
past subscribers with the bungi address on their computer.

A previous email mentioned the fake notices from Microsoft for a security
upgrade. Microsoft never sends upgrades in emails. You must download them
from Microsoft directly. The attachments to these notices are viruses. Do
not open.

These fake Microsoft Security Upgrade emails are most likely a new variant
of the "Swen" virus which appeared Wednesday. Some estimates have it as
having infected over 500,000 computers by late Thursday. Other variants of
Swen (I-Worm.Swen, Gibe.e, HLLM.Gibe.2) may disguise themselves as returned
"undeliverable" emails. If you opened the attachments of any such emails,
your computer has probably been infected . In some cases if you have not
installed the appropriate MS security patches, the worm will even install
itself without your opening the attachment.You may read the NAI (McAfee)
description of this worm at:

http://vil.nai.com/vil/content/v_100662.htm

Timothy Atwood - Glass and Wood
Holtenwood Studios
http://www.holtenwood.bc.ca/studios/
Timothy Atwood
Holtenwood Computing
http://www.holtenwood.bc.ca/computing/

----- Original Message ----- 
From: Reg Craft
To: glass@bungi.com
Sent: Saturday, August 30, 2003 7:07 PM
Subject: unsubscribe


I am getting too many viruses from the list.  Please unsubscribe me at once.

----
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From owner-glass Fri Sep 19 18:12:57 2003
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	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #540 built 2003-May-24)
X-Path: holtenwood.bc.ca!atwoods
From: "Adriana & Timothy Atwood" <atwoods@holtenwood.bc.ca>
To: "Reg Craft" <rcraft@nbnet.nb.ca>,
Mime-Version: 1.0
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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Subject: Re: unsubscribe
Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2003 16:09:03 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@holtenwood.bc.ca>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@nbnet.nb.ca>>
Precedence: bulk

You may want to send your request to glass-request@bungi.com . You will get
faster response than through the list itself.

Unsubscribing probably will not help though. Those virus emails are not
really coming from the list. Most of the worms and viruses spreading right
now "spoof" the return address. What you see as the "from" address is not
the real source. The "From" address has been culled from an infected
computer just as much as your "To" address has been.

The four most prevalent viruses right now all use spoofed "From" email
addresses. They are:
Sobig.F
Swen
Dumaru.a
Yaha.y

It is a sort of sideways compliment to the bungi list that it is getting
picked up as much as it is. There must be one heck of a lot of current or
past subscribers with the bungi address on their computer.

A previous email mentioned the fake notices from Microsoft for a security
upgrade. Microsoft never sends upgrades in emails. You must download them
from Microsoft directly. The attachmennts to these notices are viruses. Do
not open.

These fake Microsoft Security Upgrade emails are most likely a new variant
of the "Swen" virus which appeared Wednesday. Some estimates have it as
having infected over 500,000 computers by late Thursday. Other variants of
Swen (I-Worm.Swen, Gibe.e, HLLM.Gibe.2) may disguise themselves as returned
"undeliverable" emails. If you opened the attachemnts of any such emails,
your computer has probably been infected . You may read the NAI (McAfee)
description of this worm at:

http://vil.nai.com/vil/content/v_100662.htm

Timothy Atwood - Glass and Wood
Holtenwood Studios
http://www.holtenwood.bc.ca/studios/
Timothy Atwood
Holtenwood Computing
http://www.holtenwood.bc.ca/computing/

----- Original Message ----- 
From: Reg Craft
To: glass@bungi.com
Sent: Saturday, August 30, 2003 7:07 PM
Subject: unsubscribe


I am getting too many viruses from the list.  Please unsubscribe me at once.

----
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From owner-glass Fri Sep 19 18:17:45 2003
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	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #540 built 2003-May-24)
X-Path: holtenwood.bc.ca!studios
From: "Timothy Atwood" <studios@holtenwood.bc.ca>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
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Subject: Re: unsubscribe
Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2003 17:23:40 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@holtenwood.bc.ca>
Organization: Holtenwood Studios
Precedence: bulk

Note: When I say "installed the appropriate MS Security Patches" below, I
most definitely mean from the Microsoft web site. Probably using "Windows
Update". Microsoft never sends security patches in emails and you should
never install a patch received in an email.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Timothy Atwood" <studios@holtenwood.bc.ca>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Friday, September 19, 2003 4:15 PM
Subject: Re: unsubscribe


> You may want to send your request to glass-request@bungi.com . You will
get
> faster response than through the list itself.
>
> Unsubscribing probably will not help though. Those virus emails are not
> really coming from the list. Most of the worms and viruses spreading right
> now "spoof" the return address. What you see as the "from" address is not
> the real source. The "From" address has been culled from an infected
> computer just as much as your "To" address has been.
>
> The four most prevalent viruses right now all use spoofed "From" email
> addresses. They are:
> Sobig.F
> Swen
> Dumaru.a
> Yaha.y
>
> It is a sort of sideways compliment to the bungi list that it is getting
> picked up as much as it is. There must be one heck of a lot of current or
> past subscribers with the bungi address on their computer.
>
> A previous email mentioned the fake notices from Microsoft for a security
> upgrade. Microsoft never sends upgrades in emails. You must download them
> from Microsoft directly. The attachments to these notices are viruses. Do
> not open.
>
> These fake Microsoft Security Upgrade emails are most likely a new variant
> of the "Swen" virus which appeared Wednesday. Some estimates have it as
> having infected over 500,000 computers by late Thursday. Other variants of
> Swen (I-Worm.Swen, Gibe.e, HLLM.Gibe.2) may disguise themselves as
returned
> "undeliverable" emails. If you opened the attachments of any such emails,
> your computer has probably been infected . In some cases if you have not
> installed the appropriate MS security patches, the worm will even install
> itself without your opening the attachment.You may read the NAI (McAfee)
> description of this worm at:
>
> http://vil.nai.com/vil/content/v_100662.htm
>
> Timothy Atwood - Glass and Wood
> Holtenwood Studios
> http://www.holtenwood.bc.ca/studios/
> Timothy Atwood
> Holtenwood Computing
> http://www.holtenwood.bc.ca/computing/
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: Reg Craft
> To: glass@bungi.com
> Sent: Saturday, August 30, 2003 7:07 PM
> Subject: unsubscribe
>
>
> I am getting too many viruses from the list.  Please unsubscribe me at
once.
>

----
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From owner-glass Sat Sep 20 03:10:06 2003
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Subject: Re: Cabinet Doors
Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2003 05:37:34 EDT
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>
Precedence: bulk


--part1_f4.30f9a0d3.2c9d79de_boundary
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Dear Elizabeth and Joyce,

I just want to thank you two for your input. I'm glad I discovered this list. 
 The people here are always glad to help.

Your friend in glass,
Ken O
Decorative Glass

--part1_f4.30f9a0d3.2c9d79de_boundary
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<HTML><FONT FACE=3Darial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=3D2 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=
=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0">Dear Elizabeth and Joyce,<BR>
<BR>
I just want to thank you two for your input. I'm glad I discovered this list=
.&nbsp; The people here are always glad to help.<BR>
<BR>
Your friend in glass,<BR>
Ken O<BR>
Decorative Glass</FONT></HTML>

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Subject: Business Proposal
Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2003 15:03:40 GMT
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ATTN SIR,

We are valuable procurement concern that specialise in the purchase and 
shipping of [ELECTRONICS] to our numerous customers worldwide.
We are interested in purchasing your goods  
for a negotiable price. We will arrange a pick up of the good once payment and negotiation is confirmed by the seller.
Please acknowledge the offer and we will have the funds remitted to your account as soon as possible. 

export director [Henry Martins] 

Thanks,

Henry Martins
 
 

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Dear Sir/Madam,
I am an Adminstrative Staff of the Ministry Of Petroluem Resources,Lagos and i represent a Group that is interested in engaging your service as Manager For Investment Purpose,of a Large Volume of fund.
If this proposal is accpetable to you, Please get back to me so that i can work out Remuneration for your Participation in this transaction and also let you know how i came to select you for this propose.In view however of rampant cases of Fraud which have been assoicated with Ventures like this, and also the fact quite known to me about some people from our counrty doing transactions like this,who ended up being Defaruded by foreigners.
I will appreciate if you let me know if in the past you have handled a project like this,and what capacity.OR on the altanative, if you are presently handling any matters like this.This is improtant,as what we are involved in requries maximum devotion,devoid of any kind of distraction,as we shall not entertain any kind of compromise,even while ensuring that our interest and yours are accorded due assurance.
I look forward to your Prompt reaponse to this proposal,
Sincerly Yours,
Dr. Yemi Johnson. 
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<P>Dear Sir/Madam,</P>
<P>I am an Adminstrative Staff of the Ministry Of Petroluem Resources,Lagos and i represent a Group that is interested in engaging your service as Manager For Investment Purpose,of a Large Volume of fund.</P>
<P>If this proposal is accpetable to you, Please get back to me so that i can work out Remuneration for your Participation in this transaction and also let you know how i came to select you for this propose.In view however of rampant cases of Fraud which have been assoicated with Ventures like this, and also the fact quite known to me about some people from our counrty doing transactions like this,who ended up being Defaruded by foreigners.</P>
<P>I will appreciate if you let me know if in the past you have handled a project like this,and what capacity.OR on the altanative, if you are presently handling any matters like this.This is improtant,as what we are involved in requries maximum devotion,devoid of any kind of distraction,as we shall not entertain any kind of compromise,even while ensuring that our interest and yours are accorded due assurance.</P>
<P>I look forward to your Prompt reaponse to this proposal,</P>
<P>Sincerly Yours,</P>
<P>Dr. Yemi Johnson. </P>
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From owner-glass Thu Sep 25 18:29:45 2003
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From: Lori J. Mitchell <lmitchell@glastar.com>
To: Glass Listserv for Lori <UserDusty@aol.com>,  <glass@bungi.com>
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Subject: re[2]: Dirty Iron Tip
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 17:18:48 -0700
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Dear Bungi Friends,

Speaking of irons, I am looking for an antique iron like the kind that was set 
in coals or furnaces for heating prior to using.  Does anyone know of a good 
place to obtain one or more of these.

P.S. I know about e-bay, I am looking for other sources.  


Thank you, 

Lori Mitchell
Chief Executive Officer
Glastar Corporation
www.glastar.com

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From owner-glass Thu Sep 25 23:26:01 2003
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Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003 00:14:28 -0500
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If it's the type I am thinking of, plumbers and tinsmiths used them. You
might find one by calling some of the plumbers that have been around for
a long time.

Patrick
Roses and Rainbows


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From owner-glass Fri Sep 26 01:27:38 2003
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Subject: Old fashioned irons [was (2)Dirty Iron Tip]
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003 08:48:38 +0100
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At 17:18 25/09/2003 -0700, Lori wrote:
>Dear Bungi Friends,
>
>Speaking of irons, I am looking for an antique iron like the kind that was set
>in coals or furnaces for heating prior to using.  Does anyone know of a good
>place to obtain one or more of these.
>

If you were in UK I would suggest going to your local 'car boot' sale.  I
have seen many of these old irons in those boxes of odds and ends that the
would-be vendor can't identify!

Do you have similar events in USA?   They are usually held in a field or
school grounds on a Sunday and anyone can turn up and pay a few pounds to
set up a stall and sell anything they dont want. 

Regards
Elizabeth in Bournemouth
http://www.stainedglass.co.uk
Bournemouth Stained Glass
http://www.stainedglass.co.uk
UK Charter Member RAGS


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