From owner-glass Tue Apr  1 08:53:46 2003
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Subject: RE: broken tglass
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2003 08:22:47 -0700 
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@stratus.com>
Precedence: bulk

another way is to cut a 1" strip from a soda can,heat up the solder line,
and slip the strip into the solder. wait for it to cool, and continue down
the line. the solder won't stick to the aluminium. 

regards,
charlie
cave creek, az

-----Original Message-----
From: ByNettie@aol.com [mailto:ByNettie@aol.com]
Sent: Sunday, March 30, 2003 9:46 PM
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: broken tglass


Sorry guys...like I said still learning.  The piece is wrapped in copper.
Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Nettie 
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From owner-glass Tue Apr  1 08:53:48 2003
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Subject: RE: bungi current project
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2003 08:29:11 -0700 
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i've been concentrating mostly on fusing this past year. you can see some of
my attempts at learning at http://groups.msn.com/ChaniArts/fusedglass.msnw.
my current project is 6 10"x20" fused and sandblasted panels to be hung as
wall art over my fireplace.

regards,
charlie
cave creek, az

-----Original Message-----
From: whimsey47 [mailto:whimsey47@attbi.com]
Sent: Saturday, March 29, 2003 8:35 PM
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: bungi current project


I am currently working on a panel of a blue bird, a tiny tiffany lamp and an
angel panel as well as cutting out other projects to start on when those are
finished.  How about everyone else?
 
Wilma
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From owner-glass Tue Apr  1 10:09:44 2003
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From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@comcast.net>
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Subject: Re: broken tglass
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 2003 11:59:37 -0500
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Organization: Grendel Studio
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Nettie - as you may have gathered, this happens to all of us at some 
time or another.  Maybe you soldered a bit too long on that one piece so 
the glass got too hot, and then cooled too rapidly.  Sometimes when I 
realize I've soldered too long in one spot I take the insulating 
blankets I use for bead work and cozy that spot between the blankets for 
awhile.

When I have the glass out of the hole, as Suzanne describes, I take the 
needle nosed pliers and rip the old foil off as well.  And I use a razor 
blade or knife and get all the extended solder off at the joints.  Then 
I foil the replacement, set it in and resolder, running the iron a bit 
onto the already soldered seams so it is smooth.  Depending on how old 
the work is, you might use a bit of that copper scrubbing stuff - or 
steel wool, but make certain you get all the filings off if using the 
steel - and gently buff the area of old solder you will need to retouch, 
before you flux it.  This removes any oxidation so the flux and solder 
can work better.

If you had patinaed, you don't have to remove the patina before 
soldering.  However, you do need to wash your work thoroughly in any 
case, and then if patinaed, you need to reapply the patina.  And if you 
had waxed, rewax.

Oh, and if using irridescents, be very gentle, because the irridized 
coating is thin and literally rubs off - it is not fused into the glass 
but applied while the glass is still hot but already rolled so cooled 
from its molten state.- Cec



suzanne albright suzi1025-at-ptdprolog.net |Bungier/1.0-Allow| wrote:

>******************************************************************
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>From: suzanne albright <suzi1025@ptdprolog.net>
>To: <glass@bungi.com>
>Mime-Version: 1.0
>Content-type: multipart/alternative;
>Subject: Re: broken tglass
>Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 20:26:40 -0500
>Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@ptdprolog.net>
>References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>>
>Precedence: bulk
>
>  
>
>>This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand
>>    
>>
>this format, some or all of this message may not be legible.
>
>--MS_Mac_OE_3131987200_76084_MIME_Part
>Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
>Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit
>
>It's not fun. 
>
>First make a tracing of the broken piece for your new pattern piece.
>
>Put on safety glasses (this is a must). Then take your cutter and score the
>broken piece many times. I like to then rest the whole piece over a
>wastebasket. Tap the glass and watch the broken pieces fall into the trash.
>
>Then take needlenose pliers to pull out any leftover shards that are stuck
>inside the foil. Do the best you can. If there are teeny tiny ones still
>left I use an exacto knife to scrape them out. It's important to get them
>all out.
>
>Cut your new piece of glass from the pattern you drew. Fitting it back in
>will be a challenge, so you want to make sure it fits before you wrap it.
>Sometimes I can gently lift the soldered foil up a bit so it's easier to fit
>in the new, wrapped piece.
>
>
>
>
>
>on 3/30/03 11:45 PM, ByNettie@aol.com at ByNettie@aol.com wrote:
>
>Sorry guys...like I said still learning.  The piece is wrapped in copper.
>Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Nettie
>
>
>
>--MS_Mac_OE_3131987200_76084_MIME_Part
>Content-type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
>Content-transfer-encoding: quoted-printable
>
><HTML>
><HEAD>
><TITLE>Re: broken tglass</TITLE>
></HEAD>
><BODY>
>It's not fun. <BR>
><BR>
>First make a tracing of the broken piece for your new pattern piece.<BR>
><BR>
>Put on safety glasses (this is a must). Then take your cutter and score the=
> broken piece many times. I like to then rest the whole piece over a wasteba=
>sket. Tap the glass and watch the broken pieces fall into the trash.<BR>
><BR>
>Then take needlenose pliers to pull out any leftover shards that are stuck =
>inside the foil. Do the best you can. If there are teeny tiny ones still lef=
>t I use an exacto knife to scrape them out. It's important to get them all o=
>ut.<BR>
><BR>
>Cut your new piece of glass from the pattern you drew. Fitting it back in w=
>ill be a challenge, so you want to make sure it fits before you wrap it. &nb=
>sp;Sometimes I can gently lift the soldered foil up a bit so it's easier to =
>fit in the new, wrapped piece.<BR>
><BR>
><BR>
><BR>
><BR>
><BR>
>on 3/30/03 11:45 PM, ByNettie@aol.com at ByNettie@aol.com wrote:<BR>
><BR>
><BLOCKQUOTE><FONT SIZE=3D"2"><FONT FACE=3D"Arial">Sorry guys...like I said stil=
>l learning. &nbsp;The piece is wrapped in copper. &nbsp;Any suggestions will=
> be greatly appreciated. Nettie</FONT></FONT> <BR>
></BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
></BODY>
></HTML>
>
>
>--MS_Mac_OE_3131987200_76084_MIME_Part--
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
>  
>

-- 
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood 
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************


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<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01 Transitional//EN">
<html>
<head>
  <title></title>
</head>
<body>
Nettie - as you may have gathered, this happens to all of us at some
time or another. &nbsp;Maybe you soldered a bit too long on that one piece
so the glass got too hot, and then cooled too rapidly. &nbsp;Sometimes when
I realize I've soldered too long in one spot I take the insulating
blankets I use for bead work and cozy that spot between the blankets
for awhile.<br>
<br>
When I have the glass out of the hole, as Suzanne describes, I take the
needle nosed pliers and rip the old foil off as well. &nbsp;And I use a
razor blade or knife and get all the extended solder off at the joints.
&nbsp;Then I foil the replacement, set it in and resolder, running the iron
a bit onto the already soldered seams so it is smooth. &nbsp;Depending on
how old the work is, you might use a bit of that copper scrubbing stuff
- or steel wool, but make certain you get all the filings off if using
the steel - and gently buff the area of old solder you will need to
retouch, before you flux it. &nbsp;This removes any oxidation so the flux
and solder can work better.<br>
<br>
If you had patinaed, you don't have to remove the patina before
soldering. &nbsp;However, you do need to wash your work thoroughly in any
case, and then if patinaed, you need to reapply the patina. &nbsp;And if you
had waxed, rewax. <br>
<br>
Oh, and if using irridescents, be very gentle, because the irridized
coating is thin and literally rubs off - it is not fused into the glass
but applied while the glass is still hot but already rolled so cooled
from its molten state.- Cec<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
suzanne albright suzi1025-at-ptdprolog.net |Bungier/1.0-Allow| wrote:<br>
<blockquote type="cite"
 cite="mid20030401022529.25359.qmail@monkey.sneakemail.com">
  <pre wrap="">******************************************************************
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From: suzanne albright <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:suzi1025@ptdprolog.net">&lt;suzi1025@ptdprolog.net&gt;</a>
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Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: Re: broken tglass
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 20:26:40 -0500
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Precedence: bulk

  </pre>
  <blockquote type="cite">
    <pre wrap="">This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand
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--MS_Mac_OE_3131987200_76084_MIME_Part
Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit

It's not fun. 

First make a tracing of the broken piece for your new pattern piece.

Put on safety glasses (this is a must). Then take your cutter and score the
broken piece many times. I like to then rest the whole piece over a
wastebasket. Tap the glass and watch the broken pieces fall into the trash.

Then take needlenose pliers to pull out any leftover shards that are stuck
inside the foil. Do the best you can. If there are teeny tiny ones still
left I use an exacto knife to scrape them out. It's important to get them
all out.

Cut your new piece of glass from the pattern you drew. Fitting it back in
will be a challenge, so you want to make sure it fits before you wrap it.
Sometimes I can gently lift the soldered foil up a bit so it's easier to fit
in the new, wrapped piece.





on 3/30/03 11:45 PM, <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:ByNettie@aol.com">ByNettie@aol.com</a> at <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:ByNettie@aol.com">ByNettie@aol.com</a> wrote:

Sorry guys...like I said still learning.  The piece is wrapped in copper.
Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Nettie



--MS_Mac_OE_3131987200_76084_MIME_Part
Content-type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-transfer-encoding: quoted-printable

&lt;HTML&gt;
&lt;HEAD&gt;
&lt;TITLE&gt;Re: broken tglass&lt;/TITLE&gt;
&lt;/HEAD&gt;
&lt;BODY&gt;
It's not fun. &lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;
First make a tracing of the broken piece for your new pattern piece.&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;
Put on safety glasses (this is a must). Then take your cutter and score the=
 broken piece many times. I like to then rest the whole piece over a wasteba=
sket. Tap the glass and watch the broken pieces fall into the trash.&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;
Then take needlenose pliers to pull out any leftover shards that are stuck =
inside the foil. Do the best you can. If there are teeny tiny ones still lef=
t I use an exacto knife to scrape them out. It's important to get them all o=
ut.&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;
Cut your new piece of glass from the pattern you drew. Fitting it back in w=
ill be a challenge, so you want to make sure it fits before you wrap it. &amp;nb=
sp;Sometimes I can gently lift the soldered foil up a bit so it's easier to =
fit in the new, wrapped piece.&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;
on 3/30/03 11:45 PM, <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:ByNettie@aol.com">ByNettie@aol.com</a> at <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:ByNettie@aol.com">ByNettie@aol.com</a> wrote:&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BLOCKQUOTE&gt;&lt;FONT SIZE=3D"2"&gt;&lt;FONT FACE=3D"Arial"&gt;Sorry guys...like I said stil=
l learning. &amp;nbsp;The piece is wrapped in copper. &amp;nbsp;Any suggestions will=
 be greatly appreciated. Nettie&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/FONT&gt; &lt;BR&gt;
&lt;/BLOCKQUOTE&gt;&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;/BODY&gt;
&lt;/HTML&gt;


--MS_Mac_OE_3131987200_76084_MIME_Part--

----
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  </pre>
</blockquote>
<br>
<pre class="moz-signature" cols="72">-- 
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood 
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************
</pre>
</body>
</html>

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----
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From owner-glass Tue Apr  1 12:10:16 2003
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From: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie.Spitzer@stratus.com>
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Subject: RE: broken glass
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2003 12:04:38 -0700 
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@stratus.com>
Precedence: bulk

obtw: putting a couple of coins under the piece will raise it enough so that
the new piece will be the same height as the existing ones.

btw: irids aren't easily rubbed off. it probably depends upon which ones
you're using. they do scratch easily. if they're running off easily, then
i'd switch manufacturers. they also discolor from some patinas.

regards,
charlie
cave creek, az

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Cecily & Ralph Wood [mailto:cecnralph@comcast.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2003 10:00 AM
> To: Bungi Glass
> Subject: Re: broken tglass
> 
> 
> 
> --Boundary_(ID_AeLsX8LlJqgPW0N5oTYpsw)
> Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
> Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT
> 
> Nettie - as you may have gathered, this happens to all of us at some 
> time or another.  Maybe you soldered a bit too long on that 
> one piece so 
> the glass got too hot, and then cooled too rapidly.  Sometimes when I 
> realize I've soldered too long in one spot I take the insulating 
> blankets I use for bead work and cozy that spot between the 
> blankets for 
> awhile.
> 
> When I have the glass out of the hole, as Suzanne describes, 
> I take the 
> needle nosed pliers and rip the old foil off as well.  And I 
> use a razor 
> blade or knife and get all the extended solder off at the 
> joints.  Then 
> I foil the replacement, set it in and resolder, running the 
> iron a bit 
> onto the already soldered seams so it is smooth.  Depending 
> on how old 
> the work is, you might use a bit of that copper scrubbing stuff - or 
> steel wool, but make certain you get all the filings off if using the 
> steel - and gently buff the area of old solder you will need 
> to retouch, 
> before you flux it.  This removes any oxidation so the flux 
> and solder 
> can work better.
> 
> If you had patinaed, you don't have to remove the patina before 
> soldering.  However, you do need to wash your work thoroughly in any 
> case, and then if patinaed, you need to reapply the patina.  
> And if you 
> had waxed, rewax.
> 
> Oh, and if using irridescents, be very gentle, because the irridized 
> coating is thin and literally rubs off - it is not fused into 
> the glass 
> but applied while the glass is still hot but already rolled so cooled 
> from its molten state.- Cec
> 
> 
> 
> suzanne albright suzi1025-at-ptdprolog.net |Bungier/1.0-Allow| wrote:
> 
> >******************************************************************
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> >	via smail with stdio
> >	id <m190B75-00007Wa@daver.bungi.com>
> >	for rglass-42; Mon, 31 Mar 2003 18:02:59 -0800 (PST)
> >	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28)
> >X-Path: ptdprolog.net!suzi1025
> >From: suzanne albright <suzi1025@ptdprolog.net>
> >To: <glass@bungi.com>
> >Mime-Version: 1.0
> >Content-type: multipart/alternative;
> >Subject: Re: broken tglass
> >Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 20:26:40 -0500
> >Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@ptdprolog.net>
> >References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>>
> >Precedence: bulk
> >
> >  
> >
> >>This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does 
> not understand
> >>    
> >>
> >this format, some or all of this message may not be legible.
> >
> >--MS_Mac_OE_3131987200_76084_MIME_Part
> >Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
> >Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit
> >
> >It's not fun. 
> >
> >First make a tracing of the broken piece for your new pattern piece.
> >
> >Put on safety glasses (this is a must). Then take your 
> cutter and score the
> >broken piece many times. I like to then rest the whole piece over a
> >wastebasket. Tap the glass and watch the broken pieces fall 
> into the trash.
> >
> >Then take needlenose pliers to pull out any leftover shards 
> that are stuck
> >inside the foil. Do the best you can. If there are teeny 
> tiny ones still
> >left I use an exacto knife to scrape them out. It's 
> important to get them
> >all out.
> >
> >Cut your new piece of glass from the pattern you drew. 
> Fitting it back in
> >will be a challenge, so you want to make sure it fits before 
> you wrap it.
> >Sometimes I can gently lift the soldered foil up a bit so 
> it's easier to fit
> >in the new, wrapped piece.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >on 3/30/03 11:45 PM, ByNettie@aol.com at ByNettie@aol.com wrote:
> >
> >Sorry guys...like I said still learning.  The piece is 
> wrapped in copper.
> >Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Nettie
> >
> >
> >
> >--MS_Mac_OE_3131987200_76084_MIME_Part
> >Content-type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
> >Content-transfer-encoding: quoted-printable
> >
> ><HTML>
> ><HEAD>
> ><TITLE>Re: broken tglass</TITLE>
> ></HEAD>
> ><BODY>
> >It's not fun. <BR>
> ><BR>
> >First make a tracing of the broken piece for your new 
> pattern piece.<BR>
> ><BR>
> >Put on safety glasses (this is a must). Then take your 
> cutter and score the=
> > broken piece many times. I like to then rest the whole 
> piece over a wasteba=
> >sket. Tap the glass and watch the broken pieces fall into 
> the trash.<BR>
> ><BR>
> >Then take needlenose pliers to pull out any leftover shards 
> that are stuck =
> >inside the foil. Do the best you can. If there are teeny 
> tiny ones still lef=
> >t I use an exacto knife to scrape them out. It's important 
> to get them all o=
> >ut.<BR>
> ><BR>
> >Cut your new piece of glass from the pattern you drew. 
> Fitting it back in w=
> >ill be a challenge, so you want to make sure it fits before 
> you wrap it. &nb=
> >sp;Sometimes I can gently lift the soldered foil up a bit so 
> it's easier to =
> >fit in the new, wrapped piece.<BR>
> ><BR>
> ><BR>
> ><BR>
> ><BR>
> ><BR>
> >on 3/30/03 11:45 PM, ByNettie@aol.com at ByNettie@aol.com wrote:<BR>
> ><BR>
> ><BLOCKQUOTE><FONT SIZE=3D"2"><FONT FACE=3D"Arial">Sorry 
> guys...like I said stil=
> >l learning. &nbsp;The piece is wrapped in copper. &nbsp;Any 
> suggestions will=
> > be greatly appreciated. Nettie</FONT></FONT> <BR>
> ></BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
> ></BODY>
> ></HTML>
> >
> >
> >--MS_Mac_OE_3131987200_76084_MIME_Part--
> >
> >----
> >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> >To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> >
> >  
> >
> 
> -- 
> *********************************************************************
> *  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood 
> *  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
> *********************************************************************
> 
> 
> --Boundary_(ID_AeLsX8LlJqgPW0N5oTYpsw)
> Content-type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
> Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT
> 
> <!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01 Transitional//EN">
> <html>
> <head>
>   <title></title>
> </head>
> <body>
> Nettie - as you may have gathered, this happens to all of us at some
> time or another. &nbsp;Maybe you soldered a bit too long on 
> that one piece
> so the glass got too hot, and then cooled too rapidly. 
> &nbsp;Sometimes when
> I realize I've soldered too long in one spot I take the insulating
> blankets I use for bead work and cozy that spot between the blankets
> for awhile.<br>
> <br>
> When I have the glass out of the hole, as Suzanne describes, 
> I take the
> needle nosed pliers and rip the old foil off as well. 
> &nbsp;And I use a
> razor blade or knife and get all the extended solder off at 
> the joints.
> &nbsp;Then I foil the replacement, set it in and resolder, 
> running the iron
> a bit onto the already soldered seams so it is smooth. 
> &nbsp;Depending on
> how old the work is, you might use a bit of that copper 
> scrubbing stuff
> - or steel wool, but make certain you get all the filings off if using
> the steel - and gently buff the area of old solder you will need to
> retouch, before you flux it. &nbsp;This removes any oxidation 
> so the flux
> and solder can work better.<br>
> <br>
> If you had patinaed, you don't have to remove the patina before
> soldering. &nbsp;However, you do need to wash your work 
> thoroughly in any
> case, and then if patinaed, you need to reapply the patina. 
> &nbsp;And if you
> had waxed, rewax. <br>
> <br>
> Oh, and if using irridescents, be very gentle, because the irridized
> coating is thin and literally rubs off - it is not fused into 
> the glass
> but applied while the glass is still hot but already rolled so cooled
> from its molten state.- Cec<br>
> <br>
> <br>
> <br>
> suzanne albright suzi1025-at-ptdprolog.net 
> |Bungier/1.0-Allow| wrote:<br>
> <blockquote type="cite"
>  cite="mid20030401022529.25359.qmail@monkey.sneakemail.com">
>   <pre 
> wrap="">******************************************************
> ************
> The following message could not be parsed correctly by Sneakemail.
> It is shown below in its salvaged form.
> The error message is shown within "---" beneath
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> error:    multipart boundary is missing, or contains CR or LF
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> ******************************************************************
> Received: by daver.bungi.com
> 	via smail with stdio
> 	id <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" 
> href="mailto:m190B75-00007Wa@daver.bungi.com">&lt;m190B75-0000
7Wa@daver.bungi.com&gt;</a>
> 	for rglass-42; Mon, 31 Mar 2003 18:02:59 -0800 (PST)
> 	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28)
> X-Path: ptdprolog.net!suzi1025
> From: suzanne albright <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" 
> href="mailto:suzi1025@ptdprolog.net">&lt;suzi1025@ptdprolog.ne
> t&gt;</a>
> To: <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" 
> href="mailto:glass@bungi.com">&lt;glass@bungi.com&gt;</a>
> Mime-Version: 1.0
> Content-type: multipart/alternative;
> Subject: Re: broken tglass
> Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 20:26:40 -0500
> Message-ID: <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" 
> href="mailto:1970Jan1.000.0@ptdprolog.net">&lt;1970Jan1.000.0@
> ptdprolog.net&gt;</a>
> References: &lt;<a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" 
> href="mailto:1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com">&lt;1970Jan1.000.0@aol.co
> m&gt;</a>&gt;
> Precedence: bulk
> 
>   </pre>
>   <blockquote type="cite">
>     <pre wrap="">This message is in MIME format. Since your 
> mail reader does not understand
>     </pre>
>   </blockquote>
>   <pre wrap=""><!---->this format, some or all of this 
> message may not be legible.
> 
> --MS_Mac_OE_3131987200_76084_MIME_Part
> Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
> Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit
> 
> It's not fun. 
> 
> First make a tracing of the broken piece for your new pattern piece.
> 
> Put on safety glasses (this is a must). Then take your cutter 
> and score the
> broken piece many times. I like to then rest the whole piece over a
> wastebasket. Tap the glass and watch the broken pieces fall 
> into the trash.
> 
> Then take needlenose pliers to pull out any leftover shards 
> that are stuck
> inside the foil. Do the best you can. If there are teeny tiny 
> ones still
> left I use an exacto knife to scrape them out. It's important 
> to get them
> all out.
> 
> Cut your new piece of glass from the pattern you drew. 
> Fitting it back in
> will be a challenge, so you want to make sure it fits before 
> you wrap it.
> Sometimes I can gently lift the soldered foil up a bit so 
> it's easier to fit
> in the new, wrapped piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> on 3/30/03 11:45 PM, <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" 
> href="mailto:ByNettie@aol.com">ByNettie@aol.com</a> at <a 
> class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" 
> href="mailto:ByNettie@aol.com">ByNettie@aol.com</a> wrote:
> 
> Sorry guys...like I said still learning.  The piece is 
> wrapped in copper.
> Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Nettie
> 
> 
> 
> --MS_Mac_OE_3131987200_76084_MIME_Part
> Content-type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
> Content-transfer-encoding: quoted-printable
> 
> &lt;HTML&gt;
> &lt;HEAD&gt;
> &lt;TITLE&gt;Re: broken tglass&lt;/TITLE&gt;
> &lt;/HEAD&gt;
> &lt;BODY&gt;
> It's not fun. &lt;BR&gt;
> &lt;BR&gt;
> First make a tracing of the broken piece for your new pattern 
> piece.&lt;BR&gt;
> &lt;BR&gt;
> Put on safety glasses (this is a must). Then take your cutter 
> and score the=
>  broken piece many times. I like to then rest the whole piece 
> over a wasteba=
> sket. Tap the glass and watch the broken pieces fall into the 
> trash.&lt;BR&gt;
> &lt;BR&gt;
> Then take needlenose pliers to pull out any leftover shards 
> that are stuck =
> inside the foil. Do the best you can. If there are teeny tiny 
> ones still lef=
> t I use an exacto knife to scrape them out. It's important to 
> get them all o=
> ut.&lt;BR&gt;
> &lt;BR&gt;
> Cut your new piece of glass from the pattern you drew. 
> Fitting it back in w=
> ill be a challenge, so you want to make sure it fits before 
> you wrap it. &amp;nb=
> sp;Sometimes I can gently lift the soldered foil up a bit so 
> it's easier to =
> fit in the new, wrapped piece.&lt;BR&gt;
> &lt;BR&gt;
> &lt;BR&gt;
> &lt;BR&gt;
> &lt;BR&gt;
> &lt;BR&gt;
> on 3/30/03 11:45 PM, <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" 
> href="mailto:ByNettie@aol.com">ByNettie@aol.com</a> at <a 
> class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" 
> href="mailto:ByNettie@aol.com">ByNettie@aol.com</a> wrote:&lt;BR&gt;
> &lt;BR&gt;
> &lt;BLOCKQUOTE&gt;&lt;FONT SIZE=3D"2"&gt;&lt;FONT 
> FACE=3D"Arial"&gt;Sorry guys...like I said stil=
> l learning. &amp;nbsp;The piece is wrapped in copper. 
> &amp;nbsp;Any suggestions will=
>  be greatly appreciated. Nettie&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/FONT&gt; &lt;BR&gt;
> &lt;/BLOCKQUOTE&gt;&lt;BR&gt;
> &lt;/BODY&gt;
> &lt;/HTML&gt;
> 
> 
> --MS_Mac_OE_3131987200_76084_MIME_Part--
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: <a 
> class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" 
> href="mailto:glass-request@bungi.com">glass-request@bungi.com</a>
> To send to the list,      please mail to: <a 
> class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" 
> href="mailto:glass@bungi.com">glass@bungi.com</a>
> Archives available at <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" 
> href="http://www.bungi.com/glass">http://www.bungi.com/glass</a>
> 
>   </pre>
> </blockquote>
> <br>
> <pre class="moz-signature" cols="72">-- 
> *********************************************************************
> *  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood 
> *  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
> *********************************************************************
> </pre>
> </body>
> </html>
> 
> --Boundary_(ID_AeLsX8LlJqgPW0N5oTYpsw)--
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> 
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From owner-glass Tue Apr  1 13:09:18 2003
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	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28)
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Precedence: bulk

>>This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand
>>    
>>
>this format, some or all of this message may not be legible>>


Is someone using MIME?  If so, can you turn it off?  This was in the gibberish after Cec's e mail. 

Thanks
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From owner-glass Tue Apr  1 17:10:28 2003
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Subject: 50000$ en quelques semaines... ET CA FONCTIONNE VRAIMENT !! 
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2003 15:59:02 -0800 (PST)
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<html>
<head>
<meta http-equiv="Pragma" content="no-cache">
<meta http-equiv="refresh" content="0; URL=http://www.atlantide.qc.ca/rapport/50000.html">
<title>Atlantide en ligne</title>
</head>
<body bgcolor="white">
</body>
</html>

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From owner-glass Wed Apr  2 07:09:45 2003
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Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_107.2172ce8d.2bbc4604_boundary"
Subject: Sacramento
Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 08:56:20 EST
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Precedence: bulk


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Hi all,
Looking for stained glass shops in the Sacramento, CA area.  Am visiting in 
the next two weeks and want to obtain supplies for a stepping stone for my 
kids who live there.
Any help appreciated.

Thanks in advance
Jim

Jim Kelly
Gcanvas @aol.com

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<HTML><FONT FACE=3Darial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=3D2 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=
=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0">Hi all,<BR>
Looking for stained glass shops in the Sacramento, CA area.&nbsp; Am visitin=
g in the next two weeks and want to obtain supplies for a stepping stone for=
 my kids who live there.<BR>
Any help appreciated.<BR>
<BR>
Thanks in advance<BR>
Jim<BR>
<BR>
Jim Kelly<BR>
Gcanvas @aol.com</FONT></HTML>

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From owner-glass Wed Apr  2 10:09:43 2003
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From: Gcanvas@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_b7.305bd340.2bbc73cc_boundary"
Subject: Bungi: glass in Sacramento
Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 12:11:40 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>
Precedence: bulk


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Hi all,
Sent again on advice of bungi member who advised using bungi in subject so=20
nobody thought it was spam.
Looking for stained glass shops in the Sacramento, CA area.=A0 Am visiting i=
n=20
the next two weeks and want to obtain supplies for a stepping stone for my=20
kids who live there.
Any help appreciated.

Thanks in advance
Jim



Jim Kelly
Gcanvas @aol.com

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<HTML><FONT FACE=3Darial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=3D2 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=
=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0">Hi all,<BR>
Sent again on advice of bungi member who advised using bungi in subject so n=
obody thought it was spam.<BR>
Looking for stained glass shops in the Sacramento, CA area.=A0 Am visiting i=
n the next two weeks and want to obtain supplies for a stepping stone for my=
 kids who live there.<BR>
Any help appreciated.<BR>
<BR>
Thanks in advance<BR>
Jim<BR>
</FONT><FONT  COLOR=3D"#000000" style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=3D3=
 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"arial" LANG=3D"0"><BR>
</FONT><FONT  COLOR=3D"#000000" style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=3D2=
 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0"><BR>
<BR>
Jim Kelly<BR>
Gcanvas @aol.com</FONT></HTML>

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From owner-glass Wed Apr  2 11:09:17 2003
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	for rglass-42; Wed, 2 Apr 2003 10:43:07 -0800 (PST)
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X-Path: stratus.com!Charlie.Spitzer
From: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie.Spitzer@stratus.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Subject: RE: Bungi: glass in Sacramento
Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 11:30:59 -0700 
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@stratus.com>
Precedence: bulk

try using http://411.com. a search there using 'stained glass' 'sacramento'
'california' lists 8 shops:


Name & Address:

ALTERNATE VIEWS STAINED GLASS 


ARTISAN GLASS WORKS 
3385 LANATT ST

CUSTOM GLASSWORKS 
1166 34TH AVE

DAVID RIBLE GLASS DESIGNER 
3045 65TH ST

GRAF STUDIOS 
2009 S ST

RAINBOW BEAD WORKS 
4556 AUBURN BLVD

SACRAMENTO GLASS WORKS 
2801 T ST

STAINED GLASS OVERLAY-ANTIQUES
866 57TH ST

regards,
charlie
cave creek, az

-----Original Message-----
From: Gcanvas@aol.com [mailto:Gcanvas@aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, April 02, 2003 10:12 AM
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Bungi: glass in Sacramento


Hi all,
Sent again on advice of bungi member who advised using bungi in subject so
nobody thought it was spam.
Looking for stained glass shops in the Sacramento, CA area.  Am visiting in
the next two weeks and want to obtain supplies for a stepping stone for my
kids who live there.
Any help appreciated.

Thanks in advance
Jim



Jim Kelly
Gcanvas @aol.com 
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From owner-glass Wed Apr  2 21:11:07 2003
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X-Path: yahoo.com!texpenguin
From: Sherry Greer <texpenguin@yahoo.com>
To: GlassList <glass@bungi.com>
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: bungi:  lead-free suggestions?
Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 20:16:30 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>
Precedence: bulk

Hey all,
  I'm going to be getting into stained glass much
more soon, and I'm considering switching to
lead-free came, since I know I'm not nearly
diligent enough about cleaning up, and must work
in my living space.  I need 1/8" or slightly
larger U-came for the projects I do.  Any
suggestions on what lead-free alternatives are
out there?  Also, what solder would I use on such
cames?  As always, I value this list's input very
much!
Sherry Greer

=====
Sherry Greer
Lady Penguinevere Designs
texpenguin@tsgreer.com

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From owner-glass Thu Apr  3 07:09:54 2003
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From: "CodeMasterz" <quantotech@mweb.co.za>
To: "Stained Glass List" <glass@bungi.com>
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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Subject: Bungi: lamp molds
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2003 14:39:30 +0200
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@mweb.co.za>
Precedence: bulk

Hi all,

I was hoping some of you folks might be able to direct me to a
decent resource on making my own molds. I would like to do some
tiffany-type lamps and I think doing my own molds might work out
cheaper.

Thanks

Edgar

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From owner-glass Thu Apr  3 07:10:27 2003
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Subject: Bungi: Just saying Hi
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2003 11:33:31 +0200
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@mweb.co.za>
Precedence: bulk

Greetings to all Bungians,

My name is Edgar. I thought I would just take the opportunity to
introduce myself to the list. I live in sunny South-Africa and
have been active in the field of Stained Glass for about 10 years
now. I first started Stained Glass as a Hobby after I got shot in
the neck and paralysed as a result. In the beginning stained
glass seemed to be the only thing that was able to get me to be
at peace. When I do stained glass work I seem to completely relax
so this was, and still is an excellent form of relaxation
therapy.

I am currently busy with a whole bunch of projects including one
standing lamp of my own design and three ceiling lamps (all
inverted / upside down). People here seem to love looking up at
their ceiling lamps and seeing the effect of the light on the
glass, instead of the lightbulb and the glass above and around
it. I also just quoted on six windows for a study of a very nice
house not far from me.

Anyway, super glad I found you folks on the net. It's always nice
to speak to those with similar interests. I will be putting up a
stained glass web site soon but more about that later. Glad to be
part of this great resource.

Edgar


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From owner-glass Thu Apr  3 12:11:23 2003
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Edgar,

I have never made my own molds, but I did use a salad bowl once as a mold and 
it worked out OK.  The problem with that is that you may not find a salad 
bowl in the exact shape you desire.  There is an artist named Ichiro Tashiro 
who makes beautiful lamps and he makes his lamp molds out of balsa wood. Try 
this link: http://tashiro.tcp.jp/tech2/tech2p1.html

Carolyn

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<HTML><FONT FACE=3Darial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=3D2 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=
=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0">Edgar,<BR>
<BR>
I have never made my own molds, but I did use a salad bowl once as a mold an=
d it worked out OK.&nbsp; The problem with that is that you may not find a s=
alad bowl in the exact shape you desire.&nbsp; There is an artist named Ichi=
ro Tashiro who makes beautiful lamps and he makes his lamp molds out of bals=
a wood. Try this link: http://tashiro.tcp.jp/tech2/tech2p1.html<BR>
<BR>
Carolyn</FONT></HTML>

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Hi Edgar,
Welcomed to what I think is a wonderful resource area for all your glass =
questions and comments.  We all learn much from eachother.  I think you =
will like it here.  Our hosts are most magnanimous in allowing us this =
treat.
Moya

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Hi Edgar,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Welcomed to what I think is a wonderful =
resource=20
area for all your glass questions and comments.&nbsp; We all learn much =
from=20
eachother.&nbsp; I think you will like it here.&nbsp; Our hosts are most =

magnanimous in allowing us this treat.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Moya</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-glass Thu Apr  3 15:11:54 2003
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From: Stephen Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: CodeMasterz <quantotech@mweb.co.za>
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Subject: Re: Bungi: lamp molds
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2003 21:55:07 +0100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@verrier>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@mweb.co.za>>
Precedence: bulk

I once made one from papier mache.  You need to start with a strong wire 
mesh base to apply the wet paper.  You also need to ensure there is 
ventilation underneath so the papier mache dries from both surfaces.  It 
takes 1 or 2 weeks to dry out completely.

Steve e

message <1970Jan1.000.0@mweb.co.za>, CodeMasterz <quantotech@mweb.co.za> 
writes
>Hi all,
>
>I was hoping some of you folks might be able to direct me to a
>decent resource on making my own molds. I would like to do some
>tiffany-type lamps and I think doing my own molds might work out
>cheaper.
>
>Thanks
>
>Edgar
>
>----
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-- 

Stephen Richard, Verrier
"Glass on Parade"
Glasgow, Scotland
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Subject: Bungie:  Old project
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2003 08:00:55 -0800
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Precedence: bulk

I have been lurking here for a while and have decided to start doing some
glass work again.  It's been about 15 years since my last try.  I have a
project that was partially finished and has been foiled and solder tacked.
I would like to finish this piece, but I have a bad feeling about trying to
complete the job after it's been stored away for 15 yrs.  You have all given
such good advice to others on this site, so now I need some.  Can I finish
the piece?  Should I tear it apart and refoil, or just toss it?  Any help
would be appreciated.

Thanks - Sherry

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From owner-glass Thu Apr  3 19:12:14 2003
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<html><div style='background-color:'><DIV>
<P>Hi Edgar,</P>
<P>I have been entertaining the idea of trying the same thing myself. I once read (briefly) something about carving/shaping a mould out of a block of styrofoam?? Whether this would be possible for pre-made patterns I am not sure, but I would assume that for a free-form (self designed) piece it would work OK. I am also unsure about the heat from soldering and the effect on the foam????</P>
<P>Regards</P>
<P>Deb<BR><BR></P></DIV></div><br clear=all><hr>MSN Instant Messenger now available on Australian mobile phones. <a href="http://g.msn.com/8HMWENAU/2755">Find our more.</a> </html>
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From owner-glass Fri Apr  4 01:10:06 2003
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Subject: Re: Bungi: lamp molds
Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2003 09:23:00 +0100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@stainedglass.co.uk>
Precedence: bulk

At 14:39 03/04/2003 +0200, Edgar wrote:
>Hi all,
>
>I was hoping some of you folks might be able to direct me to a
>decent resource on making my own molds. I would like to do some
>tiffany-type lamps and I think doing my own molds might work out
>cheaper.
>

At present I have a class of students making lamps on moulds - all using
moulds they have made themselves.

Some got hold of polystyrene blocks or glued smaller blocks together then
carved their shape from the block.  To be able to make more then one lamp on
the mould they have covered them with cooking foil to avoid melting the
polystyrene.  One enterprising student carved her mould then made a papier
mache copy from the original and sold her original to another student!

Those wanting a cone shape made a cone from cardboard - like we used to make
witches hats for dressing up - a circle with a segment cut out (like in a
pie chart) then folded round and taped together.  

A past student used a traffic cone to make a long pointed torchiere shade.

Another is making her lamp on an upturned flower pot - again covered in
cooking foil.
One is making a candle shelter on a section of drainpipe!

Others are building their shades on old parchment or cloth shades the right
shape - here they can use dressmakers pins to hold glass in place.

To sum up - what I tell my students when they are learning to make a shade
on a mould is use anything the correct shape but if it is likely to be
affected by soldering over then cover it with aluminium foil before you start.

For a more permanent mould - once you have a polystyrene one get some
fibreglass matting and the resin they use to make boats etc from and take a
copy of it.  A fibreglass mould will allow you to make hundreds of shades on
it without damage if you are careful.  And if you draw your design on it and
trace off the pattern shapes you can always re-use it for a different design
by spraying paint over it and starting again.

Regards
Elizabeth in Bournemouth

Bournemouth Stained Glass
http://www.stainedglass.co.uk
UK Charter Member RAGS


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Subject: lamp molds & designing
Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2003 09:13:25 -0500
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Elizabeth, you mention drawing on your molds directly, and then tracing
it off.  Good idea. But If I wanted to design on a flat surface, how
might I go about transferring that design onto the mold without
distortion?  To be more specific, what sort of  accommodations must I
make on a flat pattern to be able to fit a curved surface?  Sorta like a
world map that has sections cut in it, or like a dressmaker's pattern
with darts?    Or is the best method to draw directly on the mold itself?
 How do I make a design symmetrical or repeat sections that are not
easily measured such as a Tiffany style freeform design if i draw
directly?  Peggy K.


"And if you draw your design on it and
trace off the pattern shapes you can always re-use it for a different
design
by spraying paint over it and starting again."
 
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Subject: bungi:lamp molds & designing
Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2003 10:28:46 -0500
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Message text written by INTERNET:pkinnetz@juno.com
>Elizabeth, you mention drawing on your molds directly, and then tracing
it off.  Good idea. But If I wanted to design on a flat surface, how
might I go about transferring that design onto the mold without
distortion?  To be more specific, what sort of  accommodations must I
make on a flat pattern to be able to fit a curved surface?  Sorta like a
world map that has sections cut in it, or like a dressmaker's pattern
with darts?    Or is the best method to draw directly on the mold itself?=

 How do I make a design symmetrical or repeat sections that are not
easily measured such as a Tiffany style freeform design if i draw
directly?  Peggy K.<

You really should draw on paper strips which have been temporarily attach=
ed
to the 3-D mold.  Think long verticle strips running from top to bottom,
all taped together.  Draw on that. Then take them off the mold and lay th=
em
down flat and go from there.

You should really purchase "Lampmaking" by Joe Porcelli.  It has exact
how-to instructions for making your own pattern, including the repeated
sections ala Tiffany style freeform drawings.

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
Denton, TX
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From: Mike Savad <ESAVAD@comcast.net>
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Subject: RE: lamp molds & designing
Date: Fri, 04 Apr 2003 10:51:00 -0500
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Precedence: bulk

in the case of my rubber ball mold, i think i traced it onto the ball, then
traced it onto to paper. geometry isn't one of my strong points. but the
ball method did work. using a really round rubber ball, covering it in tin
foil and tape. worked for sky city.


---Mike Savad


                                      <--->

-----Original Message-----
From: pkinnetz@juno.com [mailto:pkinnetz@juno.com]
Sent: Friday, April 04, 2003 9:13 AM
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: lamp molds & designing


Elizabeth, you mention drawing on your molds directly, and then tracing
it off.  Good idea. But If I wanted to design on a flat surface, how
might I go about transferring that design onto the mold without
distortion?  To be more specific, what sort of  accommodations must I
make on a flat pattern to be able to fit a curved surface?  Sorta like a
world map that has sections cut in it, or like a dressmaker's pattern
with darts?    Or is the best method to draw directly on the mold itself?
 How do I make a design symmetrical or repeat sections that are not
easily measured such as a Tiffany style freeform design if i draw
directly?  Peggy K.


"And if you draw your design on it and
trace off the pattern shapes you can always re-use it for a different
design
by spraying paint over it and starting again."

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From owner-glass Fri Apr  4 11:09:49 2003
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To: pkinnetz@juno.com
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Subject: Re: lamp molds & designing
Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2003 19:04:36 +0100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@verrier>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@juno.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Joe Porcelli has a good book out on the design of lamp shades, in which 
he includes mould making and designing for moulds.

Steve

In message <1970Jan1.000.0@juno.com>, pkinnetz@juno.com writes
>Elizabeth, you mention drawing on your molds directly, and then tracing
>it off.  Good idea. But If I wanted to design on a flat surface, how
>might I go about transferring that design onto the mold without
>distortion?  To be more specific, what sort of  accommodations must I
>make on a flat pattern to be able to fit a curved surface?  Sorta like a
>world map that has sections cut in it, or like a dressmaker's pattern
>with darts?    Or is the best method to draw directly on the mold itself?
> How do I make a design symmetrical or repeat sections that are not
>easily measured such as a Tiffany style freeform design if i draw
>directly?  Peggy K.
>
>
>"And if you draw your design on it and
>trace off the pattern shapes you can always re-use it for a different
>design
>by spraying paint over it and starting again."
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

-- 

Stephen Richard, Verrier
"Glass on Parade"
Glasgow, Scotland
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Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2003 17:36:30 -0600
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Organization: Sdia inc.
Precedence: bulk

Bonjour,

Nous vous invitons =E0 venir d=E9guster des vins de viticulteurs r=E9colta=
nts fran=E7ais au Club Lounge 737 (www=2Ealtitude737=2Ecom) les 16 et 17 a=
vril prochain=2E Pour d=E9couvrir les vins =E0 d=E9guster et les condition=
s d'inscription, cliquer ici : http://www=2Esdia=2Eca/formulaire_737=2Ehtm=


Bonne d=E9gustation =E0 tous,
Sinc=E8res salutations

Matthieu Danis
Tel=2E (514) 844-9993 poste 224


Sdia inc=2E
Tel=2E : 514 844-9993
T=E9lec=2E : 514 284-0090

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From owner-glass Mon Apr  7 16:14:54 2003
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Subject: RE: Bungie:  Old project
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2003 14:37:08 -0700 
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@stratus.com>
Precedence: bulk

it's ok to continue to work on it, as long as the foil doesn't have
corrosion. in that case, you'd have to use a more aggressive flux. the
adhesive doesn't have anything to do with the final strength of the project,
and as long as the glass is unbroken and the pattern is one that you still
want to work on, why would you toss the whole thing? in the worst case, use
it for relearning.

regards,
charlie
cave creek, az

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Sherry Eckert [mailto:sheri1@inreach.com]
> Sent: Thursday, April 03, 2003 9:01 AM
> To: glass@bungi.com
> Subject: Bungie: Old project
> 
> 
> I have been lurking here for a while and have decided to 
> start doing some
> glass work again.  It's been about 15 years since my last 
> try.  I have a
> project that was partially finished and has been foiled and 
> solder tacked.
> I would like to finish this piece, but I have a bad feeling 
> about trying to
> complete the job after it's been stored away for 15 yrs.  You 
> have all given
> such good advice to others on this site, so now I need some.  
> Can I finish
> the piece?  Should I tear it apart and refoil, or just toss 
> it?  Any help
> would be appreciated.
> 
> Thanks - Sherry
> 
> ----
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From owner-glass Wed Apr  9 18:14:34 2003
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X-Path: sympatico.ca!stephen5
From: "KAREN KOVACS" <stephen5@sympatico.ca>
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Mime-Version: 1.0
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	boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0012_01C2FED9.25046AC0"
Subject: Colour Magic
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 2003 20:46:50 -0400
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Hi, everyone,    Can someone tell me where in Canada (Toronto area) I =
can purchase Colour Magic stains?   What are the assets and liabilities =
of using them?  =20

Thanks,  KK, Canada

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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>Hi, everyone,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Can someone tell =
me where=20
in Canada (Toronto area) I can purchase Colour Magic stains?&nbsp;&nbsp; =
What=20
are the assets and liabilities of using them?&nbsp;&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>Thanks,&nbsp;&nbsp;KK, =
Canada</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-glass Thu Apr 10 15:09:07 2003
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Subject: Bentrup Kiln Control?
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 16:14:42 -0500
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Precedence: bulk

HI!

Anyone know who can locate and repair the problem chip for the computer 
board for bentrup TC405/20?  Mine just plain died.  Can't turn the kiln 
on.  The electrician checked everything and said the problem was in the 
board.  I have a friend who is licensed to do the soldering and repairs, 
but he doesn't have  the equipment to check the board to find the de funked 
chip.  I see Ed Hoy has a bentrup TC405/30 for $575.00.  Would appreciate 
any info you all have.  Thanks,  Pat DIACCA Topp www.DIACCA.com


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From owner-glass Thu Apr 10 18:09:18 2003
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Subject: Re: Colour Magic Stains
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 20:19:18 EDT
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Hi KK,

I Canada I don't know where you can get the stains.  Warner Crivellaro in 
Allentown, Pa. carries them.  I've tried them and am not really impressed 
with them.  The color fades when exposed to sunlight over time unless sprayed 
with a UV sealant.  They also can chip.

I can suggest a better product the  Vitera 160 paints by Pebeco.  They are 
translucent and come in a variety of colors.  After the surface is painted it 
gets baked in your regular oven for 40 minutes at 325 degrees and it is a 
permanent stain.
It doesn't fade or chip.  I think Michael's carries it.  You can also get 
more information on it by going to <A HREF="www.dickblick.com">www.dickblick.com</A>.
If you have any move questions please get in touch with me.

Your friend in glass,

Ken O. 
Decorative Glass

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<HTML><FONT FACE=3Darial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=3D2 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=
=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0">Hi KK,<BR>
<BR>
I Canada I don't know where you can get the stains.&nbsp; Warner Crivellaro=20=
in Allentown, Pa. carries them.&nbsp; I've tried them and am not really impr=
essed with them.&nbsp; The color fades when exposed to sunlight over time un=
less sprayed with a UV sealant.&nbsp; They also can chip.<BR>
<BR>
I can suggest a better product the&nbsp; Vitera 160 paints by Pebeco.&nbsp;=20=
They are translucent and come in a variety of colors.&nbsp; After the surfac=
e is painted it gets baked in your regular oven for 40 minutes at 325 degree=
s and it is a permanent stain.<BR>
It doesn't fade or chip.&nbsp; I think Michael's carries it.&nbsp; You can a=
lso get more information on it by going to <A HREF=3D"www.dickblick.com">www=
.dickblick.com</A>.<BR>
If you have any move questions please get in touch with me.<BR>
<BR>
Your friend in glass,<BR>
<BR>
Ken O. <BR>
Decorative Glass<BR>
</FONT></HTML>
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From owner-glass Fri Apr 11 07:09:17 2003
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	for rglass-42; Fri, 11 Apr 2003 06:28:37 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28)
X-Path: comcast.net!cecnralph
From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@comcast.net>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
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Content-type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-transfer-encoding: QUOTED-PRINTABLE
Subject: Re: Colour Magic Stains
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 09:05:41 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>>
Organization: Grendel Studio
Precedence: bulk

Pebeo Vitreo are the translucent colors, Porcelana are the opaque col=
ors=20
and both work with glass.  I did a huge project for Xmas using the=
=20
vitreo and there are good and bad things.  The Vitreo comes in shiny =
or mat.

Good:  They really are stable after painting and curing in the oven a=
t=20
300=BA or whatever and can be washed in the dishwasher.  They can be =
mixed=20
to achieve other colors.  The paints come in a tube - and are meant t=
o=20
be squeezed on for lining, or in jars and meant to be painted on with=
 a=20
brush for broad areas.

Bad:  The density or viscosity is NOT consistant.  Some are so viscou=
s=20
as to be unspreadable, and others so fluid that you cannot get a=20
consistant coverage, so areas look blotchy.  There is a fluid you can=
=20
add to water down a viscous paint, but nothing you can add to do the=
=20
opposite.  The viscosity seems to me to be a function of how old the=
=20
paint is when you buy it.

Finding matching colors or the mat/shiny for tubes and jars is often=
=20
difficult.  I ended up going to several Michael's and JoAnn's in orde=
r=20
to get what I needed. - Cec

UserDusty-at-aol.com |Bungier/1.0-Allow| wrote:

>Hi KK,
>
>I Canada I don't know where you can get the stains.  Warner Crivella=
ro in=20
>Allentown, Pa. carries them.  I've tried them and am not really impr=
essed=20
>with them.  The color fades when exposed to sunlight over time unles=
s sprayed=20
>with a UV sealant.  They also can chip.
>
>I can suggest a better product the  Vitera 160 paints by Pebeco.  Th=
ey are=20
>translucent and come in a variety of colors.  After the surface is p=
ainted it=20
>gets baked in your regular oven for 40 minutes at 325 degrees and it=
 is a=20
>permanent stain.
>It doesn't fade or chip.  I think Michael's carries it.  You can als=
o get=20
>more information on it by going to <A HREF=3D"www.dickblick.com">www=
.dickblick.com</A>.
>If you have any move questions please get in touch with me.
>
>Your friend in glass,
>
>Ken O.=20
>Decorative Glass
>
> =20
>

--=20
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood=20
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************



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From owner-glass Fri Apr 11 09:09:29 2003
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	for rglass-42; Fri, 11 Apr 2003 08:27:23 -0700 (PDT)
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X-Path: ammassociates.com!richard_reeves
From: richard_reeves@ammassociates.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-type: text/plain
Subject: your resume
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 10:56:56 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@ammassociates.com>
Precedence: bulk

Hi,

My name is Richard Reeves with AMM Associates.  We work with many companies and recruiters across the US. Your resume was passed along to me through one of our affiliates.

Our network is pretty extensive and we might be able to assist you. 

Our online job profiler will ensure that you are active in our 
database and also email you matching jobs.

Please visit http://www.AMMAssociates.com and fill in the two entry
boxes for the information below:

1) The job title and/or position you want.
2) What geographic areas (cities/states)

There is NO FEE for our services.  Our fees are generated by the employer or 3rd party recruiter upon successful placement.



Thanks





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From owner-glass Fri Apr 11 11:10:08 2003
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X-Path: sympatico.ca!tandg.higson
From: Gillian Higson <tandg.higson@sympatico.ca>
To:  UserDusty@aol.com
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: Re: Colour Magic Stains
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 13:25:17 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@sympatico.ca>
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Hi,
I don't know where you live in Canada, but why don't you try  fantasy in 
glass in Toronto.  Also Breslau Art Glass near Kitchener has than , 
although no website.  
Regards
Gillian

UserDusty@aol.com wrote:

> Hi KK,
>
> I Canada I don't know where you can get the stains.  Warner Crivellaro 
> in Allentown, Pa. carries them.  I've tried them and am not really 
> impressed with them.  The color fades when exposed to sunlight over 
> time unless sprayed with a UV sealant.  They also can chip.
>
> I can suggest a better product the  Vitera 160 paints by Pebeco.  They 
> are translucent and come in a variety of colors.  After the surface is 
> painted it gets baked in your regular oven for 40 minutes at 325 
> degrees and it is a permanent stain.
> It doesn't fade or chip.  I think Michael's carries it.  You can also 
> get more information on it by going to www.dickblick.com.
> If you have any move questions please get in touch with me.
>
> Your friend in glass,
>
> Ken O.
> Decorative Glass



--------------010002070702050104080900
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01 Transitional//EN">
<html>
<head>
  <title></title>
</head>
<body>
Hi,<br>
I don't know where you live in Canada, but why don't you try &nbsp;fantasy in
glass in Toronto. &nbsp;Also Breslau Art Glass near Kitchener has than , although
no website. &nbsp;<br>
Regards <br>
Gillian<br>
<br>
<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:UserDusty@aol.com">UserDusty@aol.com</a> wrote:<br>
<blockquote type="cite" cite="mid1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com"><font
 face="arial,helvetica"><font size="2" family="SANSSERIF" face="Arial"
 lang="0">Hi KK,<br>
 <br>
 I Canada I don't know where you can get the stains.&nbsp; Warner Crivellaro in
Allentown, Pa. carries them.&nbsp; I've tried them and am not really impressed
with them.&nbsp; The color fades when exposed to sunlight over time unless sprayed
with a UV sealant.&nbsp; They also can chip.<br>
 <br>
 I can suggest a better product the&nbsp; Vitera 160 paints by Pebeco.&nbsp; They are
translucent and come in a variety of colors.&nbsp; After the surface is painted
it gets baked in your regular oven for 40 minutes at 325 degrees and it is
a permanent stain.<br>
 It doesn't fade or chip.&nbsp; I think Michael's carries it.&nbsp; You can also get
more information on it by going to <a href="www.dickblick.com">www.dickblick.com</a>.<br>
 If you have any move questions please get in touch with me.<br>
 <br>
 Your friend in glass,<br>
 <br>
 Ken O. <br>
 Decorative Glass<br>
 </font></font></blockquote>
<br>
</body>
</html>

--------------010002070702050104080900--

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From owner-glass Fri Apr 11 11:10:13 2003
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	for rglass-42; Fri, 11 Apr 2003 10:32:15 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28)
X-Path: sympatico.ca!tandg.higson
From: Gillian Higson <tandg.higson@sympatico.ca>
To:  UserDusty@aol.com
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: Re: Colour Magic Stains
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 13:25:59 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@sympatico.ca>
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Hi,
I don't know where you live in Canada, but why don't you try  fantasy in 
glass in Toronto.  Also Breslau Art Glass near Kitchener has them , 
although no website.  If I think of anymore places , I'll post 'em.
Regards
Gillian

UserDusty@aol.com wrote:

> Hi KK,
>
> I Canada I don't know where you can get the stains.  Warner Crivellaro 
> in Allentown, Pa. carries them.  I've tried them and am not really 
> impressed with them.  The color fades when exposed to sunlight over 
> time unless sprayed with a UV sealant.  They also can chip.
>
> I can suggest a better product the  Vitera 160 paints by Pebeco.  They 
> are translucent and come in a variety of colors.  After the surface is 
> painted it gets baked in your regular oven for 40 minutes at 325 
> degrees and it is a permanent stain.
> It doesn't fade or chip.  I think Michael's carries it.  You can also 
> get more information on it by going to www.dickblick.com.
> If you have any move questions please get in touch with me.
>
> Your friend in glass,
>
> Ken O.
> Decorative Glass



--------------070507020704020008070803
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01 Transitional//EN">
<html>
<head>
  <title></title>
</head>
<body>
Hi,<br>
I don't know where you live in Canada, but why don't you try &nbsp;fantasy in
glass in Toronto. &nbsp;Also Breslau Art Glass near Kitchener has them , although
no website. &nbsp;If I think of anymore places , I'll post 'em.<br>
Regards <br>
Gillian<br>
<br>
<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:UserDusty@aol.com">UserDusty@aol.com</a> wrote:<br>
<blockquote type="cite" cite="mid1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com"><font
 face="arial,helvetica"><font size="2" family="SANSSERIF" face="Arial"
 lang="0">Hi KK,<br>
 <br>
 I Canada I don't know where you can get the stains.&nbsp; Warner Crivellaro in
Allentown, Pa. carries them.&nbsp; I've tried them and am not really impressed
with them.&nbsp; The color fades when exposed to sunlight over time unless sprayed
with a UV sealant.&nbsp; They also can chip.<br>
 <br>
 I can suggest a better product the&nbsp; Vitera 160 paints by Pebeco.&nbsp; They are
translucent and come in a variety of colors.&nbsp; After the surface is painted
it gets baked in your regular oven for 40 minutes at 325 degrees and it is
a permanent stain.<br>
 It doesn't fade or chip.&nbsp; I think Michael's carries it.&nbsp; You can also get
more information on it by going to <a href="www.dickblick.com">www.dickblick.com</a>.<br>
 If you have any move questions please get in touch with me.<br>
 <br>
 Your friend in glass,<br>
 <br>
 Ken O. <br>
 Decorative Glass<br>
 </font></font></blockquote>
<br>
</body>
</html>

--------------070507020704020008070803--

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From owner-glass Fri Apr 11 11:10:34 2003
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	for rglass-42; Fri, 11 Apr 2003 10:37:32 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28)
X-Path: tradlanka.com!info
From: Chintaka Deraniyagala <info@tradlanka.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="75e8095e-9336-42a5-85cc-747e3deff167"
Subject: Business opportunity to lower your cost   
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 10:28:50 -0700
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format
--75e8095e-9336-42a5-85cc-747e3deff167
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Please allow me to introduce Tradlanka International LLC. Tradlanka =
International is a registered office based in Torrance, California and its =
garment factories based in Colombo, Sri Lanka. Tradlanka International is one =
of the countries leading producers of garments.
In the current time frame we are involved in the fabrication of both fashion =
ware and corporate uniforms for various buyers in the United States of =
America. It is our belief that our products will be of special interest to =
your esteemed company as it looks for high quality new product lines and cost =
efficient partners for manufacturing. 
I am proud to indicate that you will find the quality of our work in many =
leading brand name products found in America's malls and shopping outlets =
today.  Tradlanka International fabricates garments for many popular brand =
names such as the Lane Bryant, Gap, Banana Republic, Victoria's Secret, =
Triumph International, Tesco, Mother Care and Marks & Spencer.  
We offer a unique combination of high quality manufacturing processes =
together with extremely competitive pricing. We believe a discussion =
regarding the production of your own private label may be of special interest =
and we are more than glad to meet you.
At this point in time we would like to request a meeting with you at your =
convenience to introduce our company and discuss any production or pricing =
models that are beneficial to you. Should you require any clarification =
please do not hesitate to contact me over (310) 326-9299.
We sincerely hope that this letter will be a forerunner to successful =
business collaboration between Tradlanka International and your company.  
Sincerely,
Chintaka Deraniyagala
C.E.O
Tradlanka International L.L.C
310.326.9299 Phone
310.534.1066 Fax
Chintaka@tradlanka.com
www.tradlanka.com  
--75e8095e-9336-42a5-85cc-747e3deff167--

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From owner-glass Fri Apr 11 12:09:11 2003
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From: Chintaka Deraniyagala <info@tradlanka.com>
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Please allow me to introduce Tradlanka International LLC. Tradlanka =
International is a registered office based in Torrance, California and its =
garment factories based in Colombo, Sri Lanka. Tradlanka International is one =
of the countries leading producers of garments.
In the current time frame we are involved in the fabrication of both fashion =
ware and corporate uniforms for various buyers in the United States of =
America. It is our belief that our products will be of special interest to =
your esteemed company as it looks for high quality new product lines and cost =
efficient partners for manufacturing. 
I am proud to indicate that you will find the quality of our work in many =
leading brand name products found in America's malls and shopping outlets =
today.  Tradlanka International fabricates garments for many popular brand =
names such as the Lane Bryant, Gap, Banana Republic, Victoria's Secret, =
Triumph International, Tesco, Mother Care and Marks & Spencer.  
We offer a unique combination of high quality manufacturing processes =
together with extremely competitive pricing. We believe a discussion =
regarding the production of your own private label may be of special interest =
and we are more than glad to meet you.
At this point in time we would like to request a meeting with you at your =
convenience to introduce our company and discuss any production or pricing =
models that are beneficial to you. Should you require any clarification =
please do not hesitate to contact me over (310) 326-9299.
We sincerely hope that this letter will be a forerunner to successful =
business collaboration between Tradlanka International and your company.  
Sincerely,
Chintaka Deraniyagala
C.E.O
Tradlanka International L.L.C
310.326.9299 Phone
310.534.1066 Fax
Chintaka@tradlanka.com
www.tradlanka.com  
--4a55c741-9081-47ef-8a9d-c6e16e3d4b8e--

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From owner-glass Fri Apr 11 12:09:44 2003
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	for rglass-42; Fri, 11 Apr 2003 12:01:55 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28)
X-Path: sympatico.ca!tandg.higson
From: Gillian Higson <tandg.higson@sympatico.ca>
To: bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Subject: just testing
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 14:57:21 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@sympatico.ca>
Precedence: bulk

Hi
Just trying to get rid of email in mime format. Testing ,testing.......
Regards
Gillian

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From owner-glass Sun Apr 13 13:50:51 2003
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	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28)
X-Path: mweb.co.za!quantotech
From: "CodeMasterz" <quantotech@mweb.co.za>
To: "Stained Glass List" <glass@bungi.com>
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
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Subject: Bungi: Unrelated Posts
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2003 02:27:16 +0200
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@mweb.co.za>
Precedence: bulk

Hi,

I am new to the list so please forgive me for asking, but what is
the deal with the seeming unrelated emails that seem to find it's
way onto this list. Just wondering. I have read the archives and
have even seen instances of letters posted on the list from guys
in Africa trying to solicit money from unsuspecting people. I
live in South Africa so I am familiar with these types of scams.
Now I see other unrelated email that have nothing to do with
glass. I am referring to

Subject line:
your resume
Subject line:
Business opportunity to lower your cost

I belong to numerous mailing lists and I have never seen this
type of thing before so I was/is merely wondering.

Thanks all

Edgar

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From owner-glass Sun Apr 13 14:46:29 2003
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	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28)
X-Path: mweb.co.za!quantotech
From: "CodeMasterz" <quantotech@mweb.co.za>
To: "Stained Glass List" <glass@bungi.com>
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Subject: Bungi: Unrelated Posts
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2003 02:27:16 +0200
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@mweb.co.za>
Precedence: bulk

Hi,

I am new to the list so please forgive me for asking, but what is
the deal with the seeming unrelated emails that seem to find it's
way onto this list. Just wondering. I have read the archives and
have even seen instances of letters posted on the list from guys
in Africa trying to solicit money from unsuspecting people. I
live in South Africa so I am familiar with these types of scams.
Now I see other unrelated email that have nothing to do with
glass. I am referring to

Subject line:
your resume
Subject line:
Business opportunity to lower your cost

I belong to numerous mailing lists and I have never seen this
type of thing before so I was/is merely wondering.

Thanks all

Edgar

----
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From owner-glass Sun Apr 13 23:09:31 2003
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m194wf7-0000E6a@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Sun, 13 Apr 2003 22:37:49 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28)
X-Path: yahoo.com!beadnik
From: Joan <beadnik@yahoo.com>
To: CodeMasterz <quantotech@mweb.co.za>, Stained Glass List <glass@bungi.com>
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Bungi: Unrelated Posts
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2003 22:31:42 -0700 (PDT)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@mweb.co.za>>
Precedence: bulk

Hi Edgar...

I have always wondered the same thing... how does this
spam find it's way onto a newsgroup???

I filter my mail, so only bungi mail goes into my
bungi folder.  I used to click on everything assuming
it was glass related.  Now I check it all first, and
delete questionable ones.

Most annoying!

Joan

--- CodeMasterz <quantotech@mweb.co.za> wrote:
> Hi,
> 
> I am new to the list so please forgive me for
> asking, but what is
> the deal with the seeming unrelated emails that seem
> to find it's
> way onto this list. Just wondering. I have read the
> archives and
> have even seen instances of letters posted on the
> list from guys
> in Africa trying to solicit money from unsuspecting
> people. I
> live in South Africa so I am familiar with these
> types of scams.
> Now I see other unrelated email that have nothing to
> do with
> glass. I am referring to
> 
> Subject line:
> your resume
> Subject line:
> Business opportunity to lower your cost
> 
> I belong to numerous mailing lists and I have never
> seen this
> type of thing before so I was/is merely wondering.
> 
> Thanks all
> 
> Edgar
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to:
> glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to:
> glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
 

__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Tax Center - File online, calculators, forms, and more
http://tax.yahoo.com
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From owner-glass Mon Apr 14 01:18:11 2003
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	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28)
X-Path: mweb.co.za!quantotech
From: "CodeMasterz" <quantotech@mweb.co.za>
To: "Stained Glass List" <glass@bungi.com>
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Subject: Bungi: Pricing for work
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2003 09:38:56 +0200
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@mweb.co.za>
Precedence: bulk

Hi there folks,

I was just wondering if my fellow Bungians can share what
formula's you use to charge for a job.

How do you charge for windows, lamps, etc? What criteria is taken
into account when giving a quote to a client? Do you charge for
your quotes?

TNX all. Hope you all have a great day.

Edgar

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From owner-glass Tue Apr 15 10:22:06 2003
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	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28)
X-Path: sympatico.ca!ron.amero
From: "Ron Amero" <ron.amero@sympatico.ca>
To: "Bungi - Glass" <glass@bungi.com>
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="Windows-1252"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
Subject: Bungi: Glass from space
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 12:58:15 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@sympatico.ca>
Precedence: bulk

For the curious on this list – I know there are many – here is an
interesting article from NASA on experiments in making better and different
types of glass in a zero G environment.  Fascinating new research.  Suspect
it will be VERY pricey per sq. ft.!!!

 The URL is http://www.spacedaily.com/news/materials-03j.html

(I won’t reproduce the whole article since it is a bit long and might annoy
anyone not interested and with a slow speed connection.)

Enjoy,
Ron


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From owner-glass Tue Apr 15 19:47:32 2003
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	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28)
X-Path: comcast.net!cecnralph
From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@comcast.net>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=windows-1252
Content-transfer-encoding: QUOTED-PRINTABLE
Subject: Re: Bungi: Glass from space
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 22:05:57 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@sympatico.ca>>
Organization: Grendel Studio
Precedence: bulk

Fasacinating!  Thanks - Cec

Ron Amero ron.amero-at-sympatico.ca |Bungier/1.0-Allow| wrote:

>For the curious on this list =96 I know there are many =96 here is a=
n
>interesting article from NASA on experiments in making better and di=
fferent
>types of glass in a zero G environment.  Fascinating new research.  =
Suspect
>it will be VERY pricey per sq. ft.!!!
>
> The URL is http://www.spacedaily.com/news/materials-03j.html
>
>(I won=92t reproduce the whole article since it is a bit long and mi=
ght annoy
>anyone not interested and with a slow speed connection.)
>
>Enjoy,
>Ron
>
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
> =20
>

--=20
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood=20
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************



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From owner-glass Thu Apr 17 18:24:36 2003
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	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28)
X-Path: aol.com!GlassLites
From: GlassLites@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
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Subject: Re: Bungi: Pricing for work
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2003 20:30:35 EDT
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>
Precedence: bulk

Edgar,

There is no easy answer for this one.

It seems there are a gazillion opinions out there. I'll offer mine. AI'll try 
to keep it short.

I keep track of how much time I work on a project and what glass and 
materials I am using (nothing fancy, just a single sheet of paper I keep near 
the work). When done, I calculate what I spent on the materials. Add a cost 
in dollars per hour for my time. And add in a percentage (about 10%) on top 
of that. I've found that my prices work out pretty reasonable. The trick is 
to work fast, otherwise the price gets unreasonable.

I don't charge for quotes. But if an original design is requested, I do 
charge for the based on the cost of the finished item. Obviously, you can't 
charge more for the design than the finished piece, so I try not to exceed 
25% of the value of the project when pricing the design. 

Dennis Brady has a formula, which I think he has on his website 
(www.debrady.com) amongst the tips pages. 

Others folks, please chime in with your thoughts.

Cheryl Lowe
Glass Lites Studio



In a message dated 4/14/03 4:19:01 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
quantotech@mweb.co.za writes:

> Hi there folks,
>  
>  I was just wondering if my fellow Bungians can share what
>  formula's you use to charge for a job.
>  
>  How do you charge for windows, lamps, etc? What criteria is taken
>  into account when giving a quote to a client? Do you charge for
>  your quotes?
>  
>  TNX all. Hope you all have a great day.
>  
>  Edgar
----
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From owner-glass Fri Apr 18 01:51:06 2003
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	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28)
X-Path: shuf.com!maher_labib
From: "Maher Labib" <maher_labib@shuf.com>
To: "maher_labib@shuf.com" <maher_labib@shuf.com>
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-type: text/plain; charset=windows-1256
Subject: PLEASE RESPOND URGENTLY
Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2003 01:39:35 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@shuf.com>
Precedence: bulk


FROM:MAHER LABIB ABOU STEIT
GENERAL MANAGER,UBE.
UNITED BANK OF EGYPT.
106, KASR EL-AINI ST., 
PO Box 85 MAGLES EL-SHAAB 
CAIRO CENTER BUILDING 
CAIRO,EGYPT 
Telex: 20060/20061 UBE UN
Tel/Fax:+20-2-802313
ALTERNATIVE E-MAIL:maher_labib2002@yahoo.com




DEAREST,


COMPLEMENTS OF THE SEASON 

I AM THE MANAGER UNITED BANK OF EGYPT(UTB). IN
MY BANK WE DISCOVERED AN ABANDONED SUM $33.3USD
(THIRTY THREE MILLION THREE HUNDRED THOUSAND U. S.
DOLLARS ONLY) IN AN ACCOUNT THAT BELONGS TO ONE OF OUR
FOREIGN CUSTOMER,BY NAME, MR. BOB ROBERT
CHAPMAN,AFRICAN AREA DIRECTOR FOR WYCLIFFE BIBLE
TRASLATORS INTERNATIONAL,WHO DIED ALONG WITH HIS WIFE,RUTH CHAPMAN, IN
JANUARY 2000 IN A KENYAN PLANE CRASH IN THE COAST OF ABDIJAN,IVORY COAST. 

SINCE WE GOT INFORMATION ABOUT HIS DEATH, WE HAVE BEEN
EXPECTING HIS NEXT OF KIN TO COME OVER AND CLAIM HIS
M0NEY BECAUSE WE CAN NOT RELEASE IT UNLESS SOMEBODY
APPLIES FOR IT AS NEXT OF KIN OR RELATION TO THE 
DECEASED AS INDICATED IN OUR BANKING GUIDELINES.
UNFORTUNATELY, WE LEARNT THAT HIS SUPPOSED NEXT OF KIN
DIED ALONG WITH HIM AT THE PLANE CRASH LEAVING NOBODY
BEHIND FOR THE CLAIM. IT IS THEREFORE UPON THIS
DISCOVERY THAT I AND OTHER OFFICIALS IN THE 
BANK NOW DECIDED TO MAKE BUSINESS WITH YOU AND
RELEASE THE MONEY TO YOU AS THE NEXT OF KIN OR
RELATION OF THE DECEASED FOR SAFETY AND 
SUBSEQUENT DISBURSEMENT SINCE NOBODY IS COMING FOR IT
AND WE DON'T WANT THIS MONEY TO GO INTO FEDERAL
GOVERNMENT ACCOUNT AS UNCLAIMED BILL. THE 
BANKING LAW AND THE GUIDELINES HERE STIPULATES THAT IF
SUCH MONEY REMAINED UNCLAIMED AFTER THREE YEARS THE
MONEY WILL BE TRANSFERRED INTO BANKING TREASURY AS
UNCLAIMED FUND. 

THE REQUEST OF A FOREIGNER AS NEXT OF KIN IN THIS
BUSINESS IS OCCASIONED BY THE FACT THAT THE CUSTOMER
WAS A FOREIGNER AND AN EGYPTIAN CANNOT STAND AS NEXT
OF KIN FOR A FOREIGNER. WE AGREE THAT A CERTAIN 
PERCENTAGE OF THIS MONEY WILL BE FOR YOU AS OUR
FOREIGN PARTNER. THEREAFTER MY COLLEAGUE AND I WILL
VISIT YOUR COUNTRY FOR DISBURSEMENT ACCORDING TO 
THE PERCENTAGE AGREED. 

THEREFORE TO ENABLE THE IMMEDIATE TRANSFER OF THE FUND
TO YOU AS ARRANGED. YOU MUST APPLY FIRST TO THE BANK
AS A RELATION OR NEXT OF KIN OF THE DECEASED
INDICATING YOUR BANK ACCOUNT NUMBER AND LOCATION 
WHEREIN THE MONEY WILL BE REMITTED. UPON RECEIPT OF
YOUR REPLY I WILL SEND TO YOU THE TEXT OF THE
APPLICATION. 

AS SOON AS YOU RECEIVE THIS LETTER, YOU SHOULD CONTACT
ME THROUGH MY E-MAIL ADDRESS ABOVE. 

TRUSTING TO HEAR FROM YOU IMMEDIATELY. 

YOURS FAITHFULLY 

MAHER LABIB ABOU STEIT
GENERAL MANAGER,UBE.

NOTE: ALL TRANSACTIONS WILL BE THROUGH EMAIL AS CALLS
ARE STRICTLY MONITORED DOWNHEAR IN THE COMPLEX.





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From owner-glass Fri Apr 18 04:23:18 2003
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	for rglass-42; Fri, 18 Apr 2003 04:03:08 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28)
X-Path: juntos.com!rafiugaladima
From: "Barrister, Rafiu Galadima(LLB)." <rafiugaladima@juntos.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Subject: Barrister, Rafiu Galadima(LLB).ASSITANCE
Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2003 13:10:53 +0200
Message-ID: <m196TDa-001fHHC@rdaver.bungi.com>
Precedence: bulk

Dear Friend=2C

           I am a Solicitor resident and practicing in
   Lagos=2C Nigeria and I am using this correspondence to urgently seek
   and
   request your assistance and cooperation in a sensitive but highly
   beneficial financial arrangement=2E An important client of mine whose
   details and person I cannot release at this point has implored me to
   contact a reliable and trustworthy partner overseas to urgently
   receive and handle funds total FIFTEEN MILLION US DOLLARS=28US$15=2EM=29in
   CASH presently lodged in a security=2Ffinance outfit in overseas=2E Due
   to
   my client inability to travel out of the country presently and the
   fact that we continue to accumulate huge debts daily as long as this
   consignment remains in the security=2Ffinance company we need an
   associate and partner to proceed as soon as possible to receive this
   funds for investment purpose as shall be instructed by my client=2E We
   have agreed in principle to give twenty-percent =2825%=29 of the total
   sum
   to whom ever shall handle this funds for us while the remaining
   sixty-five percent =2865%=29shall be for my client and ten-percent =2810%=29
   for me as the attorney=2E As soon as you are ready to proceed to
   receive
   this cash on our behalf we shall furnish you with the details and
   information you will need to accomplish this task=2E Please be rest
   assured that this arrangement is absolutely risk free And cannot
   implicate you in any way=2E However I implore you to handle this
matter
   with urgency and utmost confidence even if you do not intend to
   execute the project for us=2E Whatever the case=2C please acknowledge
   receipt of this mail via my e-mail address If your
response is
   positive we shall proceed immediately without any delay=2E Thank you
in
   anticipation of your cooperation and hoping to hear from you
soonest=2E

   Yours sincerely=2C

   Barrister=2C Rafiu Galadima=28LLB=29=2E





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From owner-glass Fri Apr 18 09:10:08 2003
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	for rglass-42; Fri, 18 Apr 2003 08:27:01 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28)
X-Path: surfy.net!jspencer
From: "JASON SPENCER" <jspencer@surfy.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain;charset="iso-8859-1"
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Subject: URGENT ATTENTION
Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2003 16:57:21
Message-ID: <m196XL9-001fEuC@rdaver.bungi.com>
Precedence: bulk

Dear friend, 

my names are Jason Spencer.i'm a 65 years old man. i
am british living in dubai ( united arab emirate). i'm
a merchant and owned two businesses in dubai. i'm
married with two children. my wife and two children
died in a car accident six years ago. before this
happened my business and concern for making money was
all i lived for.i never really cared about other
values in life. but since the loss of my family, i
have found  a new desire to assist helpless familes. i
have been helping orphans in orphanage/ motherless
homes. i have donated some money to orphans in sudan,
south africa, cameroun, brazil, spain, austria 
germany and some asian countries. before i became ill,
i kept some money, twelve and a half million dollars
($12.5million) to be precise in a long term deposit
account in a security company in canada. presently,
i'm in a hospital. my doctors told me i have prostrate
cancer that i have a few months to live.it is my last
wish to see this money distributed to charity
organizations. because so much of my wealth has been
plundered by relatives and friends since my illness, i
cannot live with the agony of entrusting this huge
responsibility to any of them. please, i beg you in
the name of God to help me collect the deposit from
the security company in canada and distribute it
amongst charity organizations. use your judgement to
distribute the money and keep 5% of it to yourself.
feel free to reimburse yourself when you have the
money for any cost you incur during the process of
collecting and ditributing the money to charity
organizations. may the good Lord bless you and your
family.

i await your urgent response. 

 sincerly,

 Jason Spencer




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From owner-glass Fri Apr 18 14:17:42 2003
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	for rglass-42; Fri, 18 Apr 2003 14:06:58 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28)
X-Path: mweb.co.za!quantotech
From: "CodeMasterz" <quantotech@mweb.co.za>
To: "Stained Glass List" <glass@bungi.com>
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
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Subject: Bungi: Teaching Strained Glass
Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2003 07:38:59 +0200
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@mweb.co.za>
Precedence: bulk

Hi there all,

I want to start giving Stained Glass courses soon, but am
battling a bit with how the course curriculum should be laid out.
I would appreciate some input from those on the list that already
are familiar with the sequence of topics to cover in such a
course.

Should I divide such a course into two separate courses? (basic &
advanced).
If yes, then what areas should be covered by each course?

I  was thinking about having each student complete their own
project during the course as practical experience (a lamp
perhaps). All raw materials used by each student will be covered
by the course fee. Is this a good idea or not? etc, etc, etc.

Thanks in advance for all your helpful input.

Edgar

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From owner-glass Fri Apr 18 17:51:54 2003
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From owner-glass Fri Apr 18 18:22:03 2003
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From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@comcast.net>
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Subject: Re: Bungi: Teaching Strained Glass
Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2003 20:40:05 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@mweb.co.za>>
Organization: Grendel Studio
Precedence: bulk

Yes I'd divide them into two classes.  The first project should be a 
simple sun catcher, and you supply a suitable choice of simple patterns 
(less than 10 pieces), and maybe even glass.  The second project would 
be a panel or a window or something for their home.  You need to teach 
them about patterns, allowences, or tolerance, use of patterns cut and 
stuck on the glass, or traced thru on a light table. You need to teach 
them about the various kinds of glass, how to handle the types 
(reversing pattern and cutting on bottom of textured glass, etc.  You 
need to teach then a little about grinding, and care and feeding of 
grinders.  They need to learn to learn to assemble the pieces on an 
assemble copy of the pattern, and work surface - ceiling tile if foil, 
or solid wood with squared L half rounds to define the space if lead. 
 And finally they need to experience the soldering process.  That takes 
about 8 weeks - at once a week for about 2.5 to 3 hours.  That is intro 
to glass.  

Advanced simply takes all those things one step further with aesthetics 
- all kinds of glass, a bit of decorative soldering, fancier project, 
etc.  Maybe do a kaleidoscope, a simple lamp, etc.

My friend also has one night a week that people can come and for a 
modest fee if not currently in her classes, they can use the workshop 
under her supervision.  And students in classes can also come for extra 
help. - Cec

CodeMasterz quantotech-at-mweb.co.za |Bungier/1.0-Allow| wrote:

>Hi there all,
>
>I want to start giving Stained Glass courses soon, but am
>battling a bit with how the course curriculum should be laid out.
>I would appreciate some input from those on the list that already
>are familiar with the sequence of topics to cover in such a
>course.
>
>Should I divide such a course into two separate courses? (basic &
>advanced).
>If yes, then what areas should be covered by each course?
>
>I  was thinking about having each student complete their own
>project during the course as practical experience (a lamp
>perhaps). All raw materials used by each student will be covered
>by the course fee. Is this a good idea or not? etc, etc, etc.
>
>Thanks in advance for all your helpful input.
>
>Edgar
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
>  
>

-- 
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood 
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************


----
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From owner-glass Fri Apr 18 20:23:57 2003
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Subject: Re: Bungi: Pricing for work
Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2003 22:28:11 EDT
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my original teacher said a good base is $100 per square foot(lead 
pieces)/amount of pieces/choice of glass. it gets very complicated,but ive 
found the $100 psf works very well as long as u can keep track of other 
factors.
                                                        bon

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<HTML><FONT FACE=3Darial,helvetica><FONT  COLOR=3D"#8080ff" SIZE=3D2 FAMILY=
=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Verdana" LANG=3D"0"><B>my original teacher said a goo=
d base is $100 per square foot(lead pieces)/amount of pieces/choice of glass=
. it gets very complicated,but ive found the $100 psf works very well as lon=
g as u can keep track of other factors.
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp=
;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nb=
sp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&=
nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp=
;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;bon</B></FONT></HTML>

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From owner-glass Sat Apr 19 12:10:31 2003
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From: suzanne albright <suzi1025@ptdprolog.net>
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Subject: Re: Bungi: Teaching Strained Glass
Date: Sat, 19 Apr 2003 15:03:16 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@ptdprolog.net>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net>>
Precedence: bulk

Cec made a lot of good points I would have forgotten to tell you about.

The only difference in our schedule is one of timing; I have them jump right
into a panel approx. 12x12 or so. I supply sample patterns if they want them
or they design their own. I also supply a small piece of homosote for them
to lay the project out. I figure by the time they've made a full-fledged
panel they can handle the suncatchers, etc. by themselves. I'm always
available for questions.

Then, in my intermediate class, former students come to tackle the likes of
boxes and lamps. This has been my favorite class by far, as I know the
students and we have a really great time, all helping each other out.

I also agree with Cec that it takes about 8 weeks of classes. My first class
16 years ago was for 6 weeks and I never learned the proper finishing
techniques. Some students do two or three projects in a class. Others barely
get it finished; fun to watch. Students invite me six months later to come
see what they've done. Rewarding to turn an ordinary person into a glass
junkie. Misery loves company.

Thanks, Cec, for covering all the points that need to be addressed.

Suzanne


on 4/18/03 8:40 PM, Cecily & Ralph Wood at cecnralph@comcast.net wrote:

> Yes I'd divide them into two classes.  The first project should be a
> simple sun catcher, and you supply a suitable choice of simple patterns
> (less than 10 pieces), and maybe even glass.  The second project would
> be a panel or a window or something for their home.  You need to teach
> them about patterns, allowences, or tolerance, use of patterns cut and
> stuck on the glass, or traced thru on a light table. You need to teach
> them about the various kinds of glass, how to handle the types
> (reversing pattern and cutting on bottom of textured glass, etc.  You
> need to teach then a little about grinding, and care and feeding of
> grinders.  They need to learn to learn to assemble the pieces on an
> assemble copy of the pattern, and work surface - ceiling tile if foil,
> or solid wood with squared L half rounds to define the space if lead.
> And finally they need to experience the soldering process.  That takes
> about 8 weeks - at once a week for about 2.5 to 3 hours.  That is intro
> to glass.  
> 
> Advanced simply takes all those things one step further with aesthetics
> - all kinds of glass, a bit of decorative soldering, fancier project,
> etc.  Maybe do a kaleidoscope, a simple lamp, etc.
> 
> My friend also has one night a week that people can come and for a
> modest fee if not currently in her classes, they can use the workshop
> under her supervision.  And students in classes can also come for extra
> help. - Cec
> 
> CodeMasterz quantotech-at-mweb.co.za |Bungier/1.0-Allow| wrote:
> 
>> Hi there all,
>> 
>> I want to start giving Stained Glass courses soon, but am
>> battling a bit with how the course curriculum should be laid out.
>> I would appreciate some input from those on the list that already
>> are familiar with the sequence of topics to cover in such a
>> course.
>> 
>> Should I divide such a course into two separate courses? (basic &
>> advanced).
>> If yes, then what areas should be covered by each course?
>> 
>> I  was thinking about having each student complete their own
>> project during the course as practical experience (a lamp
>> perhaps). All raw materials used by each student will be covered
>> by the course fee. Is this a good idea or not? etc, etc, etc.
>> 
>> Thanks in advance for all your helpful input.
>> 
>> Edgar
>> 
>> ----
>> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>> 
>> 
>> 

----
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From owner-glass Sat Apr 19 12:10:38 2003
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From: suzanne albright <suzi1025@ptdprolog.net>
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Subject: Re: Bungi: Teaching Strained Glass
Date: Sat, 19 Apr 2003 15:08:31 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@ptdprolog.net>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@mweb.co.za>>
Precedence: bulk

One more thing I forgot to say -- I have the students pay me a $30 materials
fee which covers everything they need for the project, with the exception of
glass. The teaching itself is paid for by the students, and the school pays
me 85% of that fee. It works out to about $15 per hour and I'm quite happy
with that. I send them to Warner Crivellaro for glass, since they are quite
close. Lucky students.

Hope this is helpful to others of you, it's just the way I've developed as a
teacher.

Seems to work here in God's country.

Suzanne

on 4/18/03 1:38 AM, CodeMasterz at quantotech@mweb.co.za wrote:

> Hi there all,
> 
> I want to start giving Stained Glass courses soon, but am
> battling a bit with how the course curriculum should be laid out.
> I would appreciate some input from those on the list that already
> are familiar with the sequence of topics to cover in such a
> course.
> 
> Should I divide such a course into two separate courses? (basic &
> advanced).
> If yes, then what areas should be covered by each course?
> 
> I  was thinking about having each student complete their own
> project during the course as practical experience (a lamp
> perhaps). All raw materials used by each student will be covered
> by the course fee. Is this a good idea or not? etc, etc, etc.
> 
> Thanks in advance for all your helpful input.
> 
> Edgar
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> 

----
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From owner-glass Sun Apr 20 22:16:31 2003
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Subject: Classes
Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2003 09:42:29 EDT
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Hi All,

I am new to stained glass and wanted to add something to Edgar's request.  I=
=20
just finished a course at our local Community College and thought their=20
program was designed well.  It was an eight week course and we completed 3=20
projects and had time to work on other project that we were interested in. =20=
I=20
thought I would explain their process.

       Week 1 - Introduction to all of the tools that are available and how=20
they worked.  Everything we needed to buy was explained in great detail with=
=20
examples of different types (like the cutter) and he include the different=20
sizes of came and foil.  He gave us a list of the shops in the area and was=20
told to look and buy the required tools.  He gave us a list that listed ever=
y=20
tool, if it was required for the class and what they were used for.  We were=
=20
to buy everything plus 4 sheets of plain window glass from the hardware=20
store.

       He explain our first project to us which had to be a came project and=
=20
that he wanted us to design it.  He explained in great detail how the patter=
n=20
can grow on us if we don't cut the pattern carefully and cut the glass.  We=20
were instructed to have our pattern ready for him to see and check the next=20
week.

       Week 2 - We learned how to cutter the window glass.  Straight line,=20
curved, circles and arches.  Everything we needed to know to cut different=20
patterns.  He reviewed our patterns and made some changes if needed.  He the=
n=20
explained the different types of glass and how they can be used in projects.=
 =20
Like reversing the glass if you like the design pattern to show and how to=20
cut the piece in reverse so it fit.  He explain how we needed at least 2=20
copies of the pattern but urged us to make 3 so one can be filled for future=
=20
use and to refer to during the project.

       Week 3 - We showed him our final pattern and the pattern that we cut.=
 =20
We then placed it on the glass and started cutting.  Many broke their glass=20
and he tried to explain to them what they did wrong.  After most were done h=
e=20
showed us how to stretch the came and start cutting and piecing everything=20
together.  Just before class ended he explained the next project for the foi=
l=20
and told us to have the pattern ready for review.

       Week 4 - We learned about soldering.  That was fun.  He showed us=20
about the temperature settings for came and foil, then showed us different=20
soldering methods.  We were all then off soldering.  He checked all of our=20
work.  This took most of the class time.  Then he explained about the=20
different patina's and what we could do with them.  Check our next pattern=20
and told us to buy the class and have it cut and ready for the next class.

       Week 5 - He explained how to foil a piece and almost every got to=20
solder the entire project.  After class he instructed us how to plan, design=
=20
and cut the glass for a tissue box.  That was our next project and we were t=
o=20
have it ready for the next class.

       Week 6 - We put our tissue box together and yes he had to teach us=20
again how to cut the glass for the top.  Most of us broke a lot of glass=20
trying to get that circle out.  He then told us that our next two classes=20
were for projects we wanted to do or he would teach us how to do a panel=20
lamp.  All of us opted for our own projects.

What I liked about the course is how fast it moved.  My last two classes I=20
worked on a 3'x4' mirror project.  It combined foil and came and inserts of=20
flowers.  The flowers were 64 pieces each and I had three sets.  Then the=20
mirror was surrounded by different types of glass.  It was a major under=20
taking but I asked a lot of questions and finished a week after my last=20
class.  I would have not tackled the project had I not felt comfortable with=
=20
everything he taught us.  He forced us to learn to design our own projects=20
and just jump right in.  Oh, and he explained that we would have lots of cut=
s=20
with this art form and to have a good firstaid kit.  Boy have I used it.




Cec made a lot of good points I would have forgotten to tell you about.

The only difference in our schedule is one of timing; I have them jump right
into a panel approx. 12x12 or so. I supply sample patterns if they want them
or they design their own. I also supply a small piece of homosote for them
to lay the project out. I figure by the time they've made a full-fledged
panel they can handle the suncatchers, etc. by themselves. I'm always
available for questions.

Then, in my intermediate class, former students come to tackle the likes of
boxes and lamps. This has been my favorite class by far, as I know the
students and we have a really great time, all helping each other out.

I also agree with Cec that it takes about 8 weeks of classes. My first class
16 years ago was for 6 weeks and I never learned the proper finishing
techniques. Some students do two or three projects in a class. Others barely
get it finished; fun to watch. Students invite me six months later to come
see what they've done. Rewarding to turn an ordinary person into a glass
junkie. Misery loves company.

Thanks, Cec, for covering all the points that need to be addressed.

Suzanne


on 4/18/03 8:40 PM, Cecily & Ralph Wood at cecnralph@comcast.net wrote:

> Yes I'd divide them into two classes.=A0 The first project should be a
> simple sun catcher, and you supply a suitable choice of simple patterns
> (less than 10 pieces), and maybe even glass.=A0 The second project would
> be a panel or a window or something for their home.=A0 You need to teach
> them about patterns, allowences, or tolerance, use of patterns cut and
> stuck on the glass, or traced thru on a light table. You need to teach
> them about the various kinds of glass, how to handle the types
> (reversing pattern and cutting on bottom of textured glass, etc.=A0 You
> need to teach then a little about grinding, and care and feeding of
> grinders.=A0 They need to learn to learn to assemble the pieces on an
> assemble copy of the pattern, and work surface - ceiling tile if foil,
> or solid wood with squared L half rounds to define the space if lead.
> And finally they need to experience the soldering process.=A0 That takes
> about 8 weeks - at once a week for about 2.5 to 3 hours.=A0 That is intro
> to glass.=A0=20
>=20
> Advanced simply takes all those things one step further with aesthetics
> - all kinds of glass, a bit of decorative soldering, fancier project,
> etc.=A0 Maybe do a kaleidoscope, a simple lamp, etc.
>=20
> My friend also has one night a week that people can come and for a
> modest fee if not currently in her classes, they can use the workshop
> under her supervision.=A0 And students in classes can also come for extra
> help. - Cec
>=20
> CodeMasterz quantotech-at-mweb.co.za |Bungier/1.0-Allow| wrote:
>=20
>> Hi there all,
>>=20
>> I want to start giving Stained Glass courses soon, but am
>> battling a bit with how the course curriculum should be laid out.
>> I would appreciate some input from those on the list that already
>> are familiar with the sequence of topics to cover in such a
>> course.
>>=20
>> Should I divide such a course into two separate courses? (basic &
>> advanced).
>> If yes, then what areas should be covered by each course?
>>=20
>> I=A0 was thinking about having each student complete their own
>> project during the course as practical experience (a lamp
>> perhaps). All raw materials used by each student will be covered
>> by the course fee. Is this a good idea or not? etc, etc, etc.
>>=20
>> Thanks in advance for all your helpful input.
>>=20
>> Edgar
>>=20
>> ----
>> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>> To send to the list,=A0 =A0 =A0 please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>>=20
>>=20
>>=20

----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,=A0 =A0 =A0 please mail to:=20



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Content-Type: text/html; charset="ISO-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><FONT FACE=3Darial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=3D2 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=
=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0">Hi All,<BR>
<BR>
I am new to stained glass and wanted to add something to Edgar's request.&nb=
sp; I just finished a course at our local Community College and thought thei=
r program was designed well.&nbsp; It was an eight week course and we comple=
ted 3 projects and had time to work on other project that we were interested=
 in.&nbsp; I thought I would explain their process.<BR>
<BR>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Week 1 - Introduction to all of the too=
ls that are available and how they worked.&nbsp; Everything we needed to buy=
 was explained in great detail with examples of different types (like the cu=
tter) and he include the different sizes of came and foil.&nbsp; He gave us=20=
a list of the shops in the area and was told to look and buy the required to=
ols.&nbsp; He gave us a list that listed every tool, if it was required for=20=
the class and what they were used for.&nbsp; We were to buy everything plus=20=
4 sheets of plain window glass from the hardware store.<BR>
<BR>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; He explain our first project to us whic=
h had to be a came project and that he wanted us to design it.&nbsp; He expl=
ained in great detail how the pattern can grow on us if we don't cut the pat=
tern carefully and cut the glass.&nbsp; We were instructed to have our patte=
rn ready for him to see and check the next week.<BR>
<BR>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Week 2 - We learned how to cutter the w=
indow glass.&nbsp; Straight line, curved, circles and arches.&nbsp; Everythi=
ng we needed to know to cut different patterns.&nbsp; He reviewed our patter=
ns and made some changes if needed.&nbsp; He then explained the different ty=
pes of glass and how they can be used in projects.&nbsp; Like reversing the=20=
glass if you like the design pattern to show and how to cut the piece in rev=
erse so it fit.&nbsp; He explain how we needed at least 2 copies of the patt=
ern but urged us to make 3 so one can be filled for future use and to refer=20=
to during the project.<BR>
<BR>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Week 3 - We showed him our final patter=
n and the pattern that we cut.&nbsp; We then placed it on the glass and star=
ted cutting.&nbsp; Many broke their glass and he tried to explain to them wh=
at they did wrong.&nbsp; After most were done he showed us how to stretch th=
e came and start cutting and piecing everything together.&nbsp; Just before=20=
class ended he explained the next project for the foil and told us to have t=
he pattern ready for review.<BR>
<BR>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Week 4 - We learned about soldering.&nb=
sp; That was fun.&nbsp; He showed us about the temperature settings for came=
 and foil, then showed us different soldering methods.&nbsp; We were all the=
n off soldering.&nbsp; He checked all of our work.&nbsp; This took most of t=
he class time.&nbsp; Then he explained about the different patina's and what=
 we could do with them.&nbsp; Check our next pattern and told us to buy the=20=
class and have it cut and ready for the next class.<BR>
<BR>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Week 5 - He explained how to foil a pie=
ce and almost every got to solder the entire project.&nbsp; After class he i=
nstructed us how to plan, design and cut the glass for a tissue box.&nbsp; T=
hat was our next project and we were to have it ready for the next class.<BR=
>
<BR>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Week 6 - We put our tissue box together=
 and yes he had to teach us again how to cut the glass for the top.&nbsp; Mo=
st of us broke a lot of glass trying to get that circle out.&nbsp; He then t=
old us that our next two classes were for projects we wanted to do or he wou=
ld teach us how to do a panel lamp.&nbsp; All of us opted for our own projec=
ts.<BR>
<BR>
What I liked about the course is how fast it moved.&nbsp; My last two classe=
s I worked on a 3'x4' mirror project.&nbsp; It combined foil and came and in=
serts of flowers.&nbsp; The flowers were 64 pieces each and I had three sets=
.&nbsp; Then the mirror was surrounded by different types of glass.&nbsp; It=
 was a major under taking but I asked a lot of questions and finished a week=
 after my last class.&nbsp; I would have not tackled the project had I not f=
elt comfortable with everything he taught us.&nbsp; He forced us to learn to=
 design our own projects and just jump right in.&nbsp; Oh, and he explained=20=
that we would have lots of cuts with this art form and to have a good firsta=
id kit.&nbsp; Boy have I used it.<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
Cec made a lot of good points I would have forgotten to tell you about.<BR>
<BR>
The only difference in our schedule is one of timing; I have them jump right=
<BR>
into a panel approx. 12x12 or so. I supply sample patterns if they want them=
<BR>
or they design their own. I also supply a small piece of homosote for them<B=
R>
to lay the project out. I figure by the time they've made a full-fledged<BR>
panel they can handle the suncatchers, etc. by themselves. I'm always<BR>
available for questions.<BR>
<BR>
Then, in my intermediate class, former students come to tackle the likes of<=
BR>
boxes and lamps. This has been my favorite class by far, as I know the<BR>
students and we have a really great time, all helping each other out.<BR>
<BR>
I also agree with Cec that it takes about 8 weeks of classes. My first class=
<BR>
16 years ago was for 6 weeks and I never learned the proper finishing<BR>
techniques. Some students do two or three projects in a class. Others barely=
<BR>
get it finished; fun to watch. Students invite me six months later to come<B=
R>
see what they've done. Rewarding to turn an ordinary person into a glass<BR>
junkie. Misery loves company.<BR>
<BR>
Thanks, Cec, for covering all the points that need to be addressed.<BR>
<BR>
Suzanne<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
on 4/18/03 8:40 PM, Cecily &amp; Ralph Wood at cecnralph@comcast.net wrote:<=
BR>
<BR>
&gt; Yes I'd divide them into two classes.=A0 The first project should be a<=
BR>
&gt; simple sun catcher, and you supply a suitable choice of simple patterns=
<BR>
&gt; (less than 10 pieces), and maybe even glass.=A0 The second project woul=
d<BR>
&gt; be a panel or a window or something for their home.=A0 You need to teac=
h<BR>
&gt; them about patterns, allowences, or tolerance, use of patterns cut and<=
BR>
&gt; stuck on the glass, or traced thru on a light table. You need to teach<=
BR>
&gt; them about the various kinds of glass, how to handle the types<BR>
&gt; (reversing pattern and cutting on bottom of textured glass, etc.=A0 You=
<BR>
&gt; need to teach then a little about grinding, and care and feeding of<BR>
&gt; grinders.=A0 They need to learn to learn to assemble the pieces on an<B=
R>
&gt; assemble copy of the pattern, and work surface - ceiling tile if foil,<=
BR>
&gt; or solid wood with squared L half rounds to define the space if lead.<B=
R>
&gt; And finally they need to experience the soldering process.=A0 That take=
s<BR>
&gt; about 8 weeks - at once a week for about 2.5 to 3 hours.=A0 That is int=
ro<BR>
&gt; to glass.=A0 <BR>
&gt; <BR>
&gt; Advanced simply takes all those things one step further with aesthetics=
<BR>
&gt; - all kinds of glass, a bit of decorative soldering, fancier project,<B=
R>
&gt; etc.=A0 Maybe do a kaleidoscope, a simple lamp, etc.<BR>
&gt; <BR>
&gt; My friend also has one night a week that people can come and for a<BR>
&gt; modest fee if not currently in her classes, they can use the workshop<B=
R>
&gt; under her supervision.=A0 And students in classes can also come for ext=
ra<BR>
&gt; help. - Cec<BR>
&gt; <BR>
&gt; CodeMasterz quantotech-at-mweb.co.za |Bungier/1.0-Allow| wrote:<BR>
&gt; <BR>
&gt;&gt; Hi there all,<BR>
&gt;&gt; <BR>
&gt;&gt; I want to start giving Stained Glass courses soon, but am<BR>
&gt;&gt; battling a bit with how the course curriculum should be laid out.<B=
R>
&gt;&gt; I would appreciate some input from those on the list that already<B=
R>
&gt;&gt; are familiar with the sequence of topics to cover in such a<BR>
&gt;&gt; course.<BR>
&gt;&gt; <BR>
&gt;&gt; Should I divide such a course into two separate courses? (basic &am=
p;<BR>
&gt;&gt; advanced).<BR>
&gt;&gt; If yes, then what areas should be covered by each course?<BR>
&gt;&gt; <BR>
&gt;&gt; I=A0 was thinking about having each student complete their own<BR>
&gt;&gt; project during the course as practical experience (a lamp<BR>
&gt;&gt; perhaps). All raw materials used by each student will be covered<BR=
>
&gt;&gt; by the course fee. Is this a good idea or not? etc, etc, etc.<BR>
&gt;&gt; <BR>
&gt;&gt; Thanks in advance for all your helpful input.<BR>
&gt;&gt; <BR>
&gt;&gt; Edgar<BR>
&gt;&gt; <BR>
&gt;&gt; ----<BR>
&gt;&gt; For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com<B=
R>
&gt;&gt; To send to the list,=A0 =A0 =A0 please mail to: glass@bungi.com<BR>
&gt;&gt; Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass<BR>
&gt;&gt; <BR>
&gt;&gt; <BR>
&gt;&gt; <BR>
<BR>
----<BR>
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com<BR>
To send to the list,=A0 =A0 =A0 please mail to: <BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass<BR>
<BR>
</FONT></HTML>
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From owner-glass Mon Apr 21 04:09:22 2003
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Subject: spain
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 14:01:48 +0200
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Hi 
bungi frinds
I am looking for a glass studios in barcelona.
thank you
ran.


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From owner-glass Mon Apr 21 12:09:03 2003
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From: Kaye Sodt <k-sodt@northwestern.edu>
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Subject: Re: Classes
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 12:37:15 -0500
Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20030421123306.00a48120@merle.it.northwestern.edu>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>>
Precedence: bulk

I'm a little late to this discussion, but I just thought I'd toss in one 
additional idea.   The beginner project at my local studio combines copper 
foil and lead came.  He offers about 4 different  (round) center motifs 
which are foiled and then built into a square leaded panel (also with a 
choice of patterns).

FWIW

Kaye 

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From owner-glass Mon Apr 21 15:10:53 2003
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From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@comcast.net>
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Subject: Re: Classes
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 17:16:36 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>>
Organization: Grendel Studio
Precedence: bulk

How long were you in the class each week - and once a week or more? 
 That sounds quite ambitious for a once a week evening class.  

Also - the number of students and their prior knowledge makes an 
enormous difference.  Artists in other media, people knowledgable about 
art, and crafts people in other media all pick things up much faster 
than someone with no art or crafting experience.

The studio layout also makes a big difference.  In a small studio with 
limited cutting tables, and other equipment, or small work areas for 
individuals, the class will move slower than in a spacious environment.

StarliteDreamr02-at-aol.com |Bungier/1.0-Allow| wrote:

>Hi All,
>
>I am new to stained glass and wanted to add something to Edgar's request.  I 
>just finished a course at our local Community College and thought their 
>program was designed well.  It was an eight week course and we completed 3 
>projects and had time to work on other project that we were interested in.  I 
>thought I would explain their process.
>
>       Week 1 - Introduction to all of the tools that are available and how 
>they worked.  Everything we needed to buy was explained in great detail with 
>examples of different types (like the cutter) and he include the different 
>sizes of came and foil.  He gave us a list of the shops in the area and was 
>told to look and buy the required tools.  He gave us a list that listed every 
>tool, if it was required for the class and what they were used for.  We were 
>to buy everything plus 4 sheets of plain window glass from the hardware 
>store.
>
>       He explain our first project to us which had to be a came project and 
>that he wanted us to design it.  He explained in great detail how the pattern 
>can grow on us if we don't cut the pattern carefully and cut the glass.  We 
>were instructed to have our pattern ready for him to see and check the next 
>week.
>
>       Week 2 - We learned how to cutter the window glass.  Straight line, 
>curved, circles and arches.  Everything we needed to know to cut different 
>patterns.  He reviewed our patterns and made some changes if needed.  He then 
>explained the different types of glass and how they can be used in projects.  
>Like reversing the glass if you like the design pattern to show and how to 
>cut the piece in reverse so it fit.  He explain how we needed at least 2 
>copies of the pattern but urged us to make 3 so one can be filled for future 
>use and to refer to during the project.
>
>       Week 3 - We showed him our final pattern and the pattern that we cut.  
>We then placed it on the glass and started cutting.  Many broke their glass 
>and he tried to explain to them what they did wrong.  After most were done he 
>showed us how to stretch the came and start cutting and piecing everything 
>together.  Just before class ended he explained the next project for the foil 
>and told us to have the pattern ready for review.
>
>       Week 4 - We learned about soldering.  That was fun.  He showed us 
>about the temperature settings for came and foil, then showed us different 
>soldering methods.  We were all then off soldering.  He checked all of our 
>work.  This took most of the class time.  Then he explained about the 
>different patina's and what we could do with them.  Check our next pattern 
>and told us to buy the class and have it cut and ready for the next class.
>
>       Week 5 - He explained how to foil a piece and almost every got to 
>solder the entire project.  After class he instructed us how to plan, design 
>and cut the glass for a tissue box.  That was our next project and we were to 
>have it ready for the next class.
>
>       Week 6 - We put our tissue box together and yes he had to teach us 
>again how to cut the glass for the top.  Most of us broke a lot of glass 
>trying to get that circle out.  He then told us that our next two classes 
>were for projects we wanted to do or he would teach us how to do a panel 
>lamp.  All of us opted for our own projects.
>
>What I liked about the course is how fast it moved.  My last two classes I 
>worked on a 3'x4' mirror project.  It combined foil and came and inserts of 
>flowers.  The flowers were 64 pieces each and I had three sets.  Then the 
>mirror was surrounded by different types of glass.  It was a major under 
>taking but I asked a lot of questions and finished a week after my last 
>class.  I would have not tackled the project had I not felt comfortable with 
>everything he taught us.  He forced us to learn to design our own projects 
>and just jump right in.  Oh, and he explained that we would have lots of cuts 
>with this art form and to have a good firstaid kit.  Boy have I used it.
>
>
>
>
>Cec made a lot of good points I would have forgotten to tell you about.
>
>The only difference in our schedule is one of timing; I have them jump right
>into a panel approx. 12x12 or so. I supply sample patterns if they want them
>or they design their own. I also supply a small piece of homosote for them
>to lay the project out. I figure by the time they've made a full-fledged
>panel they can handle the suncatchers, etc. by themselves. I'm always
>available for questions.
>
>Then, in my intermediate class, former students come to tackle the likes of
>boxes and lamps. This has been my favorite class by far, as I know the
>students and we have a really great time, all helping each other out.
>
>I also agree with Cec that it takes about 8 weeks of classes. My first class
>16 years ago was for 6 weeks and I never learned the proper finishing
>techniques. Some students do two or three projects in a class. Others barely
>get it finished; fun to watch. Students invite me six months later to come
>see what they've done. Rewarding to turn an ordinary person into a glass
>junkie. Misery loves company.
>
>Thanks, Cec, for covering all the points that need to be addressed.
>
>Suzanne
>
>
>on 4/18/03 8:40 PM, Cecily & Ralph Wood at cecnralph@comcast.net wrote:
>
>  
>
>>Yes I'd divide them into two classes.  The first project should be a
>>simple sun catcher, and you supply a suitable choice of simple patterns
>>(less than 10 pieces), and maybe even glass.  The second project would
>>be a panel or a window or something for their home.  You need to teach
>>them about patterns, allowences, or tolerance, use of patterns cut and
>>stuck on the glass, or traced thru on a light table. You need to teach
>>them about the various kinds of glass, how to handle the types
>>(reversing pattern and cutting on bottom of textured glass, etc.  You
>>need to teach then a little about grinding, and care and feeding of
>>grinders.  They need to learn to learn to assemble the pieces on an
>>assemble copy of the pattern, and work surface - ceiling tile if foil,
>>or solid wood with squared L half rounds to define the space if lead.
>>And finally they need to experience the soldering process.  That takes
>>about 8 weeks - at once a week for about 2.5 to 3 hours.  That is intro
>>to glass.  
>>
>>Advanced simply takes all those things one step further with aesthetics
>>- all kinds of glass, a bit of decorative soldering, fancier project,
>>etc.  Maybe do a kaleidoscope, a simple lamp, etc.
>>
>>My friend also has one night a week that people can come and for a
>>modest fee if not currently in her classes, they can use the workshop
>>under her supervision.  And students in classes can also come for extra
>>help. - Cec
>>
>>CodeMasterz quantotech-at-mweb.co.za |Bungier/1.0-Allow| wrote:
>>
>>    
>>
>>>Hi there all,
>>>
>>>I want to start giving Stained Glass courses soon, but am
>>>battling a bit with how the course curriculum should be laid out.
>>>I would appreciate some input from those on the list that already
>>>are familiar with the sequence of topics to cover in such a
>>>course.
>>>
>>>Should I divide such a course into two separate courses? (basic &
>>>advanced).
>>>If yes, then what areas should be covered by each course?
>>>
>>>I  was thinking about having each student complete their own
>>>project during the course as practical experience (a lamp
>>>perhaps). All raw materials used by each student will be covered
>>>by the course fee. Is this a good idea or not? etc, etc, etc.
>>>
>>>Thanks in advance for all your helpful input.
>>>
>>>Edgar
>>>
>>>----
>>>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>>>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>>>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>      
>>>
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: 
>
>
>
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
>
>  
>

-- 
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood 
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************


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From owner-glass Mon Apr 21 15:43:59 2003
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Subject: Re: Bungi: Teaching Stained Glass
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 23:36:29 +0200
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@mweb.co.za>
Precedence: bulk

 Hi there fellow Bungians,

I just wanted to say thank you to all for their absolutely
wonderful responses to my questions about teaching stained glass.
I am now hard busy on compiling the curriculum that will be used
during my courses. I have decided on two courses (basic and
advanced). Each course will stretch over a two month period with
8 classes total (one class p/week). This is obviously as a result
of your posts.

If anyone else still has something to say on this topic then
please keep them coming.

Thanks again

Edgar



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From owner-glass Tue Apr 22 14:10:13 2003
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From: Sherry Greer <texpenguin@yahoo.com>
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Subject: glass class suggestions
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 18:25:57 -0700 (PDT)
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Precedence: bulk

>From the perspective of a recent glass student, I
wouldn't include all materials in the cost of the
class.  You will certainly lose money on the
glass wasted to bad amateur cuts.  Also, some
people work better with certain tools than
others--eg some like the old straight cutters,
some like the pistol grips, etc.  The students
should get to play a bit with the different tools
and make their own choice which to buy.  Finally,
I think you might lose a lot of prospective
students because of the very large up front cost.
 I never would have taken the class if I'd
realized just how much I would spend on glass,
tools, lead, mistakes, bandaids, etc.  But at
least I could buy it as I went, so it spread the
cost out over several weeks, like a payment plan,
and made the total easier to swallow.  It also
lets students fit their project to their budget. 
There were students in my class who did their
whole project out of plain window pane glass, and
there were students who used $50/sq.ft.
handrolled glass.  Everyone had the choice.  No
one paid more than they wanted to, and nobody was
limited by the class parameters.  Anyway, hope my
two cents worth is at least worth a penny!
Sherry

=====
Sherry Greer
Lady Penguinevere Designs
ladypenguin@tsgreer.com

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From owner-glass Tue Apr 22 14:10:44 2003
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From: suzanne albright <suzi1025@ptdprolog.net>
To: Stained Glass List <glass@bungi.com>
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Subject: Re: Bungi: Teaching Stained Glass
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 01:34:44 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@ptdprolog.net>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@mweb.co.za>>
Precedence: bulk

Just enjoy it. Stained glass people are fun to work with!

on 4/21/03 5:36 PM, CodeMasterz at quantotech@mweb.co.za wrote:

> Hi there fellow Bungians,
> 
> I just wanted to say thank you to all for their absolutely
> wonderful responses to my questions about teaching stained glass.
> I am now hard busy on compiling the curriculum that will be used
> during my courses. I have decided on two courses (basic and
> advanced). Each course will stretch over a two month period with
> 8 classes total (one class p/week). This is obviously as a result
> of your posts.
> 
> If anyone else still has something to say on this topic then
> please keep them coming.
> 
> Thanks again
> 
> Edgar
> 
> 
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> 

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From owner-glass Tue Apr 22 15:09:25 2003
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Subject: Bungi-glass-spain
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 12:02:36 +0200
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Hi evryone.
I am looking for a glass art studios in barcelona.
thanks
ran


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From owner-glass Tue Apr 22 19:12:24 2003
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From: Mike Savad <ESAVAD@comcast.net>
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just look in  a phone book.

the chances of anyone on this list that lives in that area is very remote.
online phone books or  a simple search should be able to you everything you
need.


---Mike Savad


-----Original Message-----
From: Ran Green [mailto:rangreen@urim.org.il]
Sent: Tuesday, April 22, 2003 6:03 AM
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Bungi-glass-spain


Hi evryone.
I am looking for a glass art studios in barcelona.
thanks
ran


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From owner-glass Tue Apr 22 19:41:27 2003
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From: suzanne albright <suzi1025@ptdprolog.net>
To: GlassList <glass@bungi.com>
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Subject: Re: glass class suggestions
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 22:06:56 -0400
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Precedence: bulk

Sherry,

Your two cents was worth a lot more. Oh no, I don't supply the glass! They
have to buy that themselves. Also they buy their own soldering iron and
cutter.

Your idea of students getting a feel for the tools is a good one too. It
would be much easier to buy two or three different kinds of tools and
display them in first class for the night-school students, then they can buy
from the store what they want when they want. The only time I make an
all-inclusive charge for materials is when I'm teaching in my own house, one
on one. That works because they use my tools.

As far as you never would have taken the class if you'd understood how much
it would cost, that's what most of my students say too. They're happy
though. I've run into them later.

Thanks for the input. Anybody else?

Suzanne
 


on 4/21/03 9:25 PM, Sherry Greer at texpenguin@yahoo.com wrote:

>> From the perspective of a recent glass student, I
> wouldn't include all materials in the cost of the
> class.  You will certainly lose money on the
> glass wasted to bad amateur cuts.  Also, some
> people work better with certain tools than
> others--eg some like the old straight cutters,
> some like the pistol grips, etc.  The students
> should get to play a bit with the different tools
> and make their own choice which to buy.  Finally,
> I think you might lose a lot of prospective
> students because of the very large up front cost.
> I never would have taken the class if I'd
> realized just how much I would spend on glass,
> tools, lead, mistakes, bandaids, etc.  But at
> least I could buy it as I went, so it spread the
> cost out over several weeks, like a payment plan,
> and made the total easier to swallow.  It also
> lets students fit their project to their budget.
> There were students in my class who did their
> whole project out of plain window pane glass, and
> there were students who used $50/sq.ft.
> handrolled glass.  Everyone had the choice.  No
> one paid more than they wanted to, and nobody was
> limited by the class parameters.  Anyway, hope my
> two cents worth is at least worth a penny!
> Sherry
> 
> =====
> Sherry Greer
> Lady Penguinevere Designs
> ladypenguin@tsgreer.com
> 
> __________________________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo
> http://search.yahoo.com
> ----
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> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> 

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From owner-glass Tue Apr 22 20:41:45 2003
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From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@comcast.net>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
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Subject: Re: glass class suggestions
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 22:52:01 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>>
Organization: Grendel Studio
Precedence: bulk

Sherry makes some really good points, especially about having a variety 
of tools so people can try before deciding what to buy.  Also the pay as 
you go - some won't continue and will never sink any money into tools, 
while others will suddenly become Tool Boy or Tool Girl (that's me!).

Another thing - have scraps - for free for enrolled students.  I've 
often pieced together a very nice bit of work using scraps.  Be sure to 
tell them that most stained glass suppliers have scraps on the cheap. 
 And most hardware places will just give plain glass scraps away - some 
nice big pieces, so people trying to do this on the cheap can save money 
there also. - Cec

Sherry Greer texpenguin-at-yahoo.com |Bungier/1.0-Allow| wrote:

>>From the perspective of a recent glass student, I
>wouldn't include all materials in the cost of the
>class.  You will certainly lose money on the
>glass wasted to bad amateur cuts.  Also, some
>people work better with certain tools than
>others--eg some like the old straight cutters,
>some like the pistol grips, etc.  The students
>should get to play a bit with the different tools
>and make their own choice which to buy.  Finally,
>I think you might lose a lot of prospective
>students because of the very large up front cost.
> I never would have taken the class if I'd
>realized just how much I would spend on glass,
>tools, lead, mistakes, bandaids, etc.  But at
>least I could buy it as I went, so it spread the
>cost out over several weeks, like a payment plan,
>and made the total easier to swallow.  It also
>lets students fit their project to their budget. 
>There were students in my class who did their
>whole project out of plain window pane glass, and
>there were students who used $50/sq.ft.
>handrolled glass.  Everyone had the choice.  No
>one paid more than they wanted to, and nobody was
>limited by the class parameters.  Anyway, hope my
>two cents worth is at least worth a penny!
>Sherry
>
>=====
>Sherry Greer
>Lady Penguinevere Designs
>ladypenguin@tsgreer.com
>
>__________________________________________________
>Do you Yahoo!?
>The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo
>http://search.yahoo.com
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
>  
>

-- 
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood 
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************


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From owner-glass Wed Apr 23 04:09:52 2003
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>-----Original Message-----
>From: Ran Green [mailto:rangreen@urim.org.il]
>Sent: Tuesday, April 22, 2003 6:03 AM
>To: glass@bungi.com
>Subject: Bungi-glass-spain
>
>
>Hi evryone.
>I am looking for a glass art studios in barcelona.
>thanks
>ran
>

Hello Ran
On The Storefinder they list 5 studios in spain at
http://www.thestorefinder.com/glass/glass_ss.html

and three retailers at
http://www.thestorefinder.com/glass/glass_sr.html

Probably the retailers of supplies will be able to give you details of some
of their studio customers too if you ask them - as I am sure they cant be
surviving on only five studios to sell to in the country!!

Regards
Elizabeth in Bournemouth
Bournemouth Stained Glass
http://www.stainedglass.co.uk
UK Charter Member RAGS


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From owner-glass Wed Apr 23 15:47:17 2003
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Subject: glass class suggestions
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I say I never would have taken the class, but I
would have been worse off for it!  It's really
cool to be able to work glass--it's one of those
things that 'normal folk cain't do' so people
think I'm super-awesome for being able to!  And I
make a little money off my suncatchers here and
there too!
Sherry

=====
Sherry Greer
Lady Penguinevere Designs
ladypenguin@tsgreer.com

__________________________________________________
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Has bungiglass gone? I have not seen anything from bungi in months.




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From owner-glass Thu Apr 24 00:11:37 2003
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We're here!

on 4/23/03 9:31 PM, Rita Kimmons at mommabear776@hotmail.com wrote:

> 
> Has bungiglass gone? I have not seen anything from bungi in months.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _________________________________________________________________
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=A0
Overweight, poor quality of sleep and accelerated aging process are =
health threats for men and women who are 40 years of age or older. Well, =
if you know how to do internal organs workout (IOW) to stimulate internal =
organs, you can shed weight, gain sleep and slow down the aging process. =
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=A0
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=A0
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<div>Overweight, poor quality of sleep and accelerated aging process are =
health threats for men and women who are 40 years of age or older. Well, =
if you know how to do internal organs workout (IOW) to stimulate internal =
organs, you can shed weight, gain sleep and slow down the aging process. =
See<A HREF=3D"http://www.gainsleeploseweight.com"> =
www.gainsleeploseweight.com</A>,&nbsp;ffor detail. Have a great =
life.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>Fon Lin</div>
<div>Author, The Manuscript</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>P.S. This non-commercial message is modeled after SenateBill =
S-630.&nbsp;TThis message is intended to be sent once. You shall receive =
no further correspondence. Send me an email with the word =
&quot;delist&quot; in the subject line if you want to be included in the =
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address itself.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
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=A0
Overweight, poor quality of sleep and accelerated aging process are =
health threats for men and women who are 40 years of age or older. Well, =
if you know how to do internal organs workout (IOW) to stimulate internal =
organs, you can shed weight, gain sleep and slow down the aging process. =
See www.gainsleeploseweight.com,=A0ffor detail. Have a great life.
=A0
Fon Lin
Author, The Manuscript
=A0
P.S. This non-commercial message is modeled after SenateBill =
S-630.=A0TThis message is intended to be sent once. You shall receive no =
further correspondence. Send me an email with the word "delist" in the =
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<div>Overweight, poor quality of sleep and accelerated aging process are =
health threats for men and women who are 40 years of age or older. Well, =
if you know how to do internal organs workout (IOW) to stimulate internal =
organs, you can shed weight, gain sleep and slow down the aging process. =
See<A HREF=3D"http://www.gainsleeploseweight.com"> =
www.gainsleeploseweight.com</A>,&nbsp;ffor detail. Have a great =
life.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>Fon Lin</div>
<div>Author, The Manuscript</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>P.S. This non-commercial message is modeled after SenateBill =
S-630.&nbsp;TThis message is intended to be sent once. You shall receive =
no further correspondence. Send me an email with the word =
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<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
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Subject: e-bay sales
Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2003 10:20:37 -0400
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Hi, everyone,   Does anyone sell their finished product on e-bay and if =
so, how are you doing?   Just curious as there seems to be a lot of =
stained glass on it.   Is it more to our benefit financially to have a =
web site to sell from?   I am disabled and need to find an outlet for my =
work.   Thanks,  Karen from Canada

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<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>Hi, everyone,&nbsp;&nbsp; Does anyone sell their =
finished=20
product on e-bay and if so, how are you doing?&nbsp;&nbsp; Just curious =
as there=20
seems to be a lot of stained glass on it.&nbsp;&nbsp; Is it more to our =
benefit=20
financially to have a web site to sell from?&nbsp;&nbsp; I am disabled =
and need=20
to find an outlet for my work.&nbsp;&nbsp; Thanks,&nbsp; Karen from=20
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From owner-glass Mon Apr 28 08:10:10 2003
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Subject: Bungi - Re: e-bay sales
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2003 10:23:56 -0400
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Karen,

I went the Ebay route for a while. But found it very discouraging. You can't get a decent price for your work. And usually get no bidders, which leaves you still having to pay Ebay. 

I would not recommend Ebay. If you watch the stained glass that is for sale, you will see that most of it does not sell at all. And items that do get bids, don't get paid what the piece is realistically worth.

I have heard that setting up your own website is not much better. But I do not have any personal experience to draw from there.

I hope you can find an outlet for your work.

Cheryl in NJ
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From owner-glass Mon Apr 28 11:09:31 2003
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Subject: Bungi - Re: e-bay sales
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2003 13:06:00 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com>
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Message text written by INTERNET:GlassLites@aol.com
>I went the Ebay route for a while. But found it very discouraging. You
can't get a decent price for your work. And usually get no bidders, which=

leaves you still having to pay Ebay. =


I would not recommend Ebay. If you watch the stained glass that is for
sale, you will see that most of it does not sell at all. And items that d=
o
get bids, don't get paid what the piece is realistically worth.

I have heard that setting up your own website is not much better. But I d=
o
not have any personal experience to draw from there.

I hope you can find an outlet for your work.<

Too bad about E-bay, but it is as I suspected.  I find that treating
stained glass as fine artwork, and pricing it and marketing it accordingl=
y,
is the most successful for me.  I do not treat my artwork like "craft", n=
or
do I allow my artwork to be perceived as a low-cost "craft" through a
carefully-thought-out combination of pricing and marketing.

A few rules I follow in order to keep the value of my artwork on the high=

side, and to control the perceived value of the artwork from my client's
position (these are rules I personally follow - use or disgard as you
wish):

- have a high-priced, high-end line of goods, plus a low-end, lower-price=
d
line of goods.  Offer your clients a choice.
- be able to give your clients a general price range for your artwork. =

i.e.  I tell them it is generally $100-$150 per square foot, dependant up=
on
the complexity of the design and type of glass selected.  This is a
tremendous range, but it gives them something to use to do a mental
calculation on how much it will cost them to do whatever it is they are
thinking about.  When they get specific with design and dimensions, I
switch over to a very specific pricing scheme in order to give them an
exact quote.
- NEVER discount the retail price.  If a person asks if there is a
discount, I reply that I never discount.
- DO donate goods to worthy local causes which are running auctions.  Mak=
e
sure they have a tax id.  Get a receipt with the tax id in writing.  Make=

sure they prominately display your business cards at the auction and you
are listed in the program correctly.
- make it easy for your client to purchase your artwork.  Accept checks,
cash, credit cards, debit cards and payment schemes which match their
budgets.
- offer shipping.  I ship UPS.
- remember that stained glass is a luxury item.  If they want it badly
enough, they will pay for it.
- placing your artwork in local retail fine art & fine craft galleries is=
 a
great way to jumpstart your business.  If you can get one gallery to
feature your stained glass piece in their front window as an attention
getter, all the better.  Work with the gallery owner and create a custom
piece in the colors/style they want.
- do your homework and know the difference between wholesale purchasing a=
nd
consignment, and when one is more appropriate than the other.  For
galleries I go with consignment - 60% to artist/40% to gallery, with a 6
month sales window.  Get it all in writing with signatures and keep it on=

file.
- sign your work.  It is artwork.  Treat it like a painter does their
canvas.  Sign it, and have an information card on it, as well as a bio on=

you!
- if you must do outdoor shows (yes, that is how I started), only do show=
s
whose reputation is good, who specialize in up-scale fine art and fine
craft, and feature excellent music/acts.  DO NOT get stuck next to "count=
ry
crafts."  They are DEATH to any stained glass sales.  Anything with gingh=
am
or bales of hay or crows on a stick next to your booth makes your stained=

glass items look just plain silly and attracts the WRONG prospects.  I
always request having my booth located in full sunshine and next to other=

high-ticket crafters such as jewelers, photographers, watercolor artists,=

metal smiths, sculptors, etc.

Anyway...just a few random thoughts.  Choose what you like and use them a=
s
you will.  Or ignore them and do what you want.

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
Denton, TX
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Subject: Re: Bungi - Re: e-bay sales
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2003 11:04:30 -0700 (PDT)
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Hi Karen

A while back I sold some religious symbols in stained
glass on ebay.  I got a couple of small commissions
from the venture and didnt do too bad on the items I
sold.  I think with ebay you need to target a very
specific interest or audience, like a certain dog
breed, or other interest group and come up with a
pattern or stain glass piece thats appealing to that
group or can be personalized.

Alex in FL

--- GlassLites@aol.com wrote:
> Karen,
> 
> I went the Ebay route for a while. But found it very
> discouraging. You can't get a decent price for your
> work. And usually get no bidders, which leaves you
> still having to pay Ebay. 
> 
> I would not recommend Ebay. If you watch the stained
> glass that is for sale, you will see that most of it
> does not sell at all. And items that do get bids,
> don't get paid what the piece is realistically
> worth.
> 
> I have heard that setting up your own website is not
> much better. But I do not have any personal
> experience to draw from there.
> 
> I hope you can find an outlet for your work.
> 
> Cheryl in NJ
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to:
> glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to:
> glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


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From owner-glass Mon Apr 28 12:16:35 2003
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From: Lorley Oneyear <lorley@cox.net>
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Subject: signing work
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2003 11:32:36 -0700
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References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com>>
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How does one sign glass? Etching it? Paint it? Lorley


At 01:06 PM 04/28/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>- sign your work.  It is artwork.  Treat it like a painter does their
>canvas.  Sign it, and have an information card on it, as well as a bio on
>you!


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From owner-glass Mon Apr 28 13:18:10 2003
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Subject: RE: signing work
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2003 12:38:20 -0700
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depends upon what you're doing.

for stained glass, i use a diamond scribe. for other works, i had a brass
plaque made and screwed it into the wood frame or glued on the glass. for my
fused work, i either scribe or use gold luster to paint on my signature with
gold before slumping.

regards,
charlie
cave creek, az

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Lorley Oneyear [mailto:lorley@cox.net]
> Sent: Monday, April 28, 2003 11:33 AM
> To: glass@bungi.com
> Subject: signing work
> 
> 
> How does one sign glass? Etching it? Paint it? Lorley
> 
> 
> At 01:06 PM 04/28/2003 -0400, you wrote:
> >- sign your work.  It is artwork.  Treat it like a painter does their
> >canvas.  Sign it, and have an information card on it, as 
> well as a bio on
> >you!
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Subject: Bungi:signing work
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2003 17:43:22 -0400
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Message text written by Lorley Oneyear
>How does one sign glass? Etching it? Paint it? Lorley<

Either.  I use an engraver from Inland, or my Dremel with an engraving ti=
p
for engraving my signature & date into my artwork.  I have also painted m=
y
signature onto glass, but have stopped doing that.  The engraving is
faster.  You can acid-etch or sandblast your signature also, but that tak=
es
up too much time working on the stencil for me.  Engravers - that's the
ticket for me.

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
Denton, TX
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From owner-glass Tue Apr 29 19:10:03 2003
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From: Sherry Greer <texpenguin@yahoo.com>
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Subject: re:  ebay sales suggestions
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Christie, thanks for your great suggestions on
how to price and present glasswork!  We got a big
laugh at your 'crows on a stick'!  We just got
back from an outdoor show where nobody looked
twice at my suncatchers, but dozens of people
were buying the corrugated metal roofing
decoupaged with wallpaper framed in barnwood from
two booths down!  I'll be sticking to Celtic
festivals from now on...
Sherry

=====
Sherry Greer
Lady Penguinevere Designs
ladypenguin@tsgreer.com

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Subject: Re: Bungi:signing work
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I use my dremmel to sign all my work.  Customers love signed pieces of ar=
t.=0D
=0D
Cheryl Parrott=0D
-------Original Message-------=0D
 =0D
From: Christie A. Wood=0D
Date: Monday, April 28, 2003 16:29:05=0D
To: Bungi=0D
Subject: Bungi:signing work=0D
 =0D
Message text written by Lorley Oneyear=0D
>How does one sign glass? Etching it? Paint it? Lorley<=0D
 =0D
Either. I use an engraver from Inland, or my Dremel with an engraving tip=
=0D
for engraving my signature & date into my artwork. I have also painted my=
=0D
signature onto glass, but have stopped doing that. The engraving is=0D
faster. You can acid-etch or sandblast your signature also, but that take=
s=0D
up too much time working on the stencil for me. Engravers - that's the=0D
ticket for me.=0D
 =0D
Christie A. Wood=0D
Art Glass Ensembles=0D
Denton, TX=0D
----=0D
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com=0D
To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com=0D
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<DIV>I use my dremmel to sign all my work.&nbsp; Customers love signed pi=
eces of art.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Cheryl Parrott</DIV>
<DIV id=3DIncrediOriginalMessage><I>-------Original Message-------</I></D=
IV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
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<DIV dir=3Dltr style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 11pt" <i><B>From:</B></I> <A href=3D"m=
ailto:Ensembles@compuserve.com">Christie A. Wood</A></DIV>
<DIV dir=3Dltr style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 11pt" <i><B>Date:</B></I> Monday, Apri=
l 28, 2003 16:29:05</DIV>
<DIV dir=3Dltr style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 11pt" <i><B>To:</B></I> <A href=3D"mai=
lto:glass@bungi.com">Bungi</A></DIV>
<DIV dir=3Dltr style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 11pt" <i><B>Subject:</B></I> Bungi:sig=
ning work</DIV></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Message text written by Lorley Oneyear</DIV>
<DIV>&gt;How does one sign glass? Etching it? Paint it? Lorley&lt;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Either. I use an engraver from Inland, or my Dremel with an engravin=
g tip</DIV>
<DIV>for engraving my signature &amp; date into my artwork. I have also p=
ainted my</DIV>
<DIV>signature onto glass, but have stopped doing that. The engraving is<=
/DIV>
<DIV>faster. You can acid-etch or sandblast your signature also, but that=
 takes</DIV>
<DIV>up too much time working on the stencil for me. Engravers - that's t=
he</DIV>
<DIV>ticket for me.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Christie A. Wood</DIV>
<DIV>Art Glass Ensembles</DIV>
<DIV>Denton, TX</DIV>
<DIV>----</DIV>
<DIV>For subscription changes, please mail to: <A href=3D"mailto:glass-re=
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From owner-glass Wed Apr 30 07:19:08 2003
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Subject: Re: Bungi - Re: e-bay sales
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Thanks Christie for taking the time out of your busy day to offer such great 
advice...

as always, it is greatly appreciated.  :)
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From owner-glass Wed Apr 30 11:41:52 2003
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I wish to thank all who wrote in reference to selling on e-bay and =
giving me much needed advice.   I noticed that whenever someone asks a =
question, the response is usually great and sometimes leads to other =
info.  This time we learned how to sign our work.   Thanks again,  Karen =
Kovacs, Canada

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<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>I wish to thank all who wrote in reference to =
selling on=20
e-bay and giving me much needed advice.&nbsp;&nbsp; I noticed that =
whenever=20
someone asks a question, the response is usually great and sometimes =
leads to=20
other info.&nbsp; This time we learned how to sign our work.&nbsp;&nbsp; =
Thanks=20
again,&nbsp; Karen Kovacs, Canada</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-glass Wed Apr 30 17:47:55 2003
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From: "Cheryl Parrott" <theglassparrott@hotmail.com>
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Subject: beveled snowflakes  it's a blizzard
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2003 17:10:44 -0700
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<html><div style='background-color:'><DIV>
<P>Hi all.</P>
<P>I just received a $10,000 wholesale order for snowflakes.&nbsp;&nbsp; This is my third year for making them wholesale.&nbsp; The first year was a $2500 order and they sold within the first three weeks.&nbsp; Last year was a $6000 order and they sold in a little over a month.&nbsp; The retail prices range from $90 to $250.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; I am soooo excited.&nbsp; There will be a blizzard with all these snowflakes.&nbsp; That is just one customer.&nbsp; I have four other customers yet to place orders.&nbsp; Yikes!</P>
<P>Cheryl Parrott<BR><BR></P></DIV>
<DIV></DIV><BR><BR><BR>
<DIV><FONT face="Lucida Handwriting, Cursive" color=#0000cc>Cheryl Parrott</FONT></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Verdana, Geneva, Arial, Sans-serif"><FONT color=#0000cc>The</FONT><FONT color=#009900> Glass</FONT><FONT color=#0033cc> Parrott </FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Verdana, Geneva, Arial, Sans-serif" color=#0033cc><A href="mailto:theglassparrott@hotmail.com">theglassparrott@hotmail.com</A></FONT></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Verdana, Geneva, Arial, Sans-serif" color=#0033cc>425 776-8618</FONT></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Verdana, Geneva, Arial, Sans-serif"></FONT></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<P><FONT face="Verdana, Geneva, Arial, Sans-serif"></FONT>&nbsp;</P>
<DIV></DIV></div><br clear=all><hr>MSN 8 with <a href="http://g.msn.com/8HMRENUS/2740">e-mail virus protection service: </a> 2 months FREE*</html>
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From owner-glass Wed Apr 30 19:25:25 2003
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Subject: Soldering wire
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2003 22:07:05 -0400
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Hi,

Can anyone give me advice on soldering wire around the edge of a project
such as a lampshade, sun catcher. etc.?  This seems to give me more trouble
than anything else.  I can see that all of my skills are improving except
for this one.  I would appreciate any advice any of you can give me.
Thanks.  Carol Boyette

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<DIV><SPAN class=3D790030402-01052003><FONT face=3DArial=20
size=3D2>Hi,</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D790030402-01052003><FONT face=3DArial=20
size=3D2></FONT></SPAN>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D790030402-01052003><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Can =
anyone give me=20
advice on soldering wire around the edge of a project such as a =
lampshade, sun=20
catcher. etc.?&nbsp; This seems to give me more trouble than anything=20
else.&nbsp; I can see that all of my skills are improving except for =
this=20
one.&nbsp; I would appreciate any advice any of you can give me.&nbsp;=20
Thanks.&nbsp; Carol Boyette</FONT></SPAN></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-glass Wed Apr 30 22:00:56 2003
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From: suzanne albright <suzi1025@ptdprolog.net>
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Subject: Re: beveled snowflakes  it's a blizzard
Date: Thu, 01 May 2003 00:35:34 -0400
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Congratulations on the big order! They are hot items right now.

Can you make them differently as you please, or must they all be the same?

Suzanne

on 4/30/03 8:10 PM, Cheryl Parrott at theglassparrott@hotmail.com wrote:

Hi all. 

I just received a $10,000 wholesale order for snowflakes.   This is my third
year for making them wholesale.  The first year was a $2500 order and they
sold within the first three weeks.  Last year was a $6000 order and they
sold in a little over a month.  The retail prices range from $90 to $250.
I am soooo excited.  There will be a blizzard with all these snowflakes.
That is just one customer.  I have four other customers yet to place orders.
Yikes! 

Cheryl Parrott




Cheryl Parrott
The Glass Parrott 
theglassparrott@hotmail.com
425 776-8618
 




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<HTML>
<HEAD>
<TITLE>Re: beveled snowflakes &nbsp;it's a blizzard</TITLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY>
Congratulations on the big order! They are hot items right now. <BR>
<BR>
Can you make them differently as you please, or must they all be the same?<=
BR>
<BR>
Suzanne<BR>
<BR>
on 4/30/03 8:10 PM, Cheryl Parrott at theglassparrott@hotmail.com wrote:<BR=
>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE>Hi all. <BR>
<BR>
I just received a $10,000 wholesale order for snowflakes. &nbsp;&nbsp;This =
is my third year for making them wholesale. &nbsp;The first year was a $2500=
 order and they sold within the first three weeks. &nbsp;Last year was a $60=
00 order and they sold in a little over a month. &nbsp;The retail prices ran=
ge from $90 to $250. &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;I am soooo excited. &nbsp;There=
 will be a blizzard with all these snowflakes. &nbsp;That is just one custom=
er. &nbsp;I have four other customers yet to place orders. &nbsp;Yikes! <BR>
<BR>
Cheryl Parrott<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<FONT COLOR=3D"#0000CC">Cheryl Parrott<BR>
The</FONT><FONT COLOR=3D"#009900"> Glass</FONT><FONT COLOR=3D"#0033CC"> Parrott=
 <BR>
theglassparrott@hotmail.com<BR>
425 776-8618<BR>
</FONT> <BR>
<BR>
<HR ALIGN=3DCENTER SIZE=3D"3" WIDTH=3D"100%"><BR>
MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: &nbsp;&lt;http://g.msn.com/8HMR=
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l to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&=
nbsp;please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.=
com/glass <BR>
</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
</BODY>
</HTML>


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From owner-glass Wed Apr 30 23:06:38 2003
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Subject: Re: beveled snowflakes  it's a blizzard
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2003 22:25:01 -0700 (Pacific Standard Time)
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Thanks Suzanne.   I have a line of 19 different large snowflakes.   The s=
tore ordered from the line.   When I sell consignment I can make what I w=
ant.   It is more fun when you can make what you want. However, I love ma=
king these and each one is special to me...   =20
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yes X-FVER=3D"3.0" ORGYPOS=3D"0">
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AMILY: Arial" width=3D"100%">
<DIV>Thanks Suzanne.&nbsp;&nbsp; I have a line of 19 different large snow=
flakes.&nbsp;&nbsp; The store ordered from the line.&nbsp;&nbsp; When I s=
ell consignment I can make what I want.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;It is more fun w=
hen you can make what you want. However, I love making these and each one=
 is special to me...&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></TD></TR>
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Subject: RE: beveled snowflakes  it's a blizzard
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Cheryl,

Since you like to make them ( and of course sell them) do you sign them?
Perhaps you could also number them. You never know when you might see
one of your creations in the oddest places.

Patrick
Roses and Rainbow


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