From owner-glass Thu Jan 2 08:06:32 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 2 Jan 2003 07:32:58 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: sympatico.ca!istvan5 From: "Istvan V" To: "Glass Stained" Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_001E_01C2B249.13953EE0" Subject: HAPPY NEW YEAR Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2003 10:24:05 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@sympatico.ca> Precedence: bulk This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_001E_01C2B249.13953EE0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi, Just wanted to know where everyone is. Maybe you are all = exhausted after working so hard to prepare for Christmas. (like me). = Anyway, just taking a breather and will get back to creating next = Monday. Valentine's Day is coming and there's lots of nice things to = make. =20 WISHING EVERYONE A HAPPY AND PROSPEROUS NEW YEAR Sincerely, Karen Kovacs ------=_NextPart_000_001E_01C2B249.13953EE0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hi,    Just wanted to know where = everyone=20 is.   Maybe you are all exhausted after working so hard to = prepare for=20 Christmas. (like me).   Anyway, just taking a breather and = will get=20 back to creating next Monday.  Valentine's Day is coming and = there's lots=20 of nice things to make.  
 
          =   =20 WISHING EVERYONE A HAPPY AND PROSPEROUS NEW YEAR
 
Sincerely, Karen Kovacs
 
 
------=_NextPart_000_001E_01C2B249.13953EE0-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Jan 2 10:12:48 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 2 Jan 2003 09:47:45 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: yahoo.com!the1glassman From: S Clayman To: Steve Mariani , glass@bungi.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: Re: Band Saws Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2003 09:41:53 -0800 (PST) Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@attbi.com>> Precedence: bulk Steve, Sorry it has taken a while for me to reply but I have been out of town for the month of December. I have the Taurus and I like it. I also use the Taurus at work. When I first started to use the saw I had questions about it and the manufacture was very helpful and sent an extra blad and some info. The problem with the Taurus is that if you put too much pressure or do not have clean water it will cause problems. So, follow instructions.. do not puch the glass hard against the blade, let the blade do the cutting. Make sure you use all sides of the blade. In the new models there is a little yellow piece that fits into the hole where the blade goes down. If you start making the hole in that larger then you are pushing on the blade. Stuart Just remember with any glass and saw..... score/break, then grind, the saw... if you can't score and break it then think about grinding it.. then if grinding does not work, then use the saw. --- Steve Mariani wrote: > I have been looking at 3 band saws and was wondering > if any of you have used > either of them and have an opinion on them. > I like the Gemini Taurus II.2, The Diamond Laser > 3000XL & Gryphon Wire Saw. > Not sure what to do at this point. > I would appreciate any advice. > > Thanks > Steve > __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Jan 4 08:18:20 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sat, 4 Jan 2003 07:59:13 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: wireworld.com!sales From: "Wire Links" To: Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Subject: Looking For Wire Hangers? Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2003 10:58:23 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@wireworld.com> Precedence: bulk Dear Sir/Madame We are Wire Links Internet see http://www.wirelinks.com Your e-mail address appears on a procurement list for wire hangers. If this information is incorrect or if you have a new address please let us know as we are in the process of up dating our database of vendors. Please take a look at our web page and let us know if we can be of some use to you. Wire links has been designed to provide an accurate list of suppliers, distributors or manufactures of wire and cable. Thanks for your cooperation Best regards Wire Links Paul Douwes ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Jan 4 09:10:20 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sat, 4 Jan 2003 07:59:13 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: wireworld.com!sales From: "Wire Links" To: Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Subject: Looking For Wire Hangers? Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2003 10:58:23 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@wireworld.com> Precedence: bulk Dear Sir/Madame We are Wire Links Internet see http://www.wirelinks.com Your e-mail address appears on a procurement list for wire hangers. If this information is incorrect or if you have a new address please let us know as we are in the process of up dating our database of vendors. Please take a look at our web page and let us know if we can be of some use to you. Wire links has been designed to provide an accurate list of suppliers, distributors or manufactures of wire and cable. Thanks for your cooperation Best regards Wire Links Paul Douwes ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Jan 5 12:24:00 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 5 Jan 2003 11:57:22 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: getweborb.com!prosper From: prosper@getweborb.com To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Subject: ** One Million FREE Visitors ** Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2003 14:54:02 -0500 Message-ID: Precedence: bulk Finding it tough to make money on the Internet? Want to know some well guarded secrets that will essentially make all the difference between not making money and earning good income online? Now just imagine the difference to your online business if you can get a million Free visitors on your website! That's right! A MILLION FREE VISITORS! Your sales will explode! You just cannot imagine what are the incredible secrets that the “Free Ad Guru”, Stephan Ducharme is going to share with you! You will get visitors on your website as easily as turning a water faucet! Big corporations are spending thousands of dollars in banner advertising to get the traffic that Stephan is getting for FREE. You will slap yourself if you miss this unique opportunity to learn these techniques. And it is absolutely Risk Free! http://www.getweborb.com/free/freeaudio.html Click Here Hurry! Download it to your computer before the page comes down. ********************************************************** We comply with proposed federal legislation regarding unsolicited commercial e-mail by providing you with a method for your e-mail address to be permanently removed from our database and any future mailings from our company. If you would like to change your subscription status or be removed from this mailing list, please send a email message to the following address. remove@getweborb.com Please place in the subject line "remove", and your email address will be removed immediately. *********************************************************** ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Jan 5 19:13:41 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 5 Jan 2003 18:39:48 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: iname.com!makebamaxwe From: MAKEBA MAXWEL To: glass@bungi.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="14c00928-f8b4-4493-9345-03e3f65b675d" Subject: RESPONSE PLEASE Date: Mon, 06 Jan 2003 02:39:22 +0100 Message-ID: Precedence: bulk This is a multi-part message in MIME format --14c00928-f8b4-4493-9345-03e3f65b675d Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable From: Makeba Maxwel. Subject: URGENT ASSISTANCE STRICTLY CONFIDENTIAL & URGENT. I am Mr.Makeba Maxwel a native of Cape Town in South Africa and I am an Executive Accountant with the South Africa MINISTRY OF MINERAL RESOURCES AND ENERGY. First and foremost, I apologize for using this medium to reach you for a transaction/business of this magnitude, but this is due to confidence and prompt access associated with this medium. I have decided to seek a confidential co-operation with you in the execution of the deal described Here under for the benefit of all parties and hope you will keep it as a top secret because of the nature of this transaction. Within the Department of Mining & Natural Resources where I work as an Executive Accountant and with the cooperation of four other top officials, we have in our possession as overdue payment bills totaling thirty five Million, Five Hundred Thousand U. S. Dollars ($35,500,000.) which we want to transfer abroad with the assistance and cooperation of a foreign company/individual to receive the said fund on our behalf or a reliable foreign non-company account to receive such funds. we are handicapped in the = circumstance, as the South Africa Civil Service Code of Conduct does not = allow us to operate offshore account hence your importance in the whole = transaction. This amount $35.5m represents the balance of the total contract value executed on behalf of my Department by a foreign contracting firm, which we the officials over-invoiced deliberately. Though the actual contract cost have been paid to the original contractor, leaving the balance in the Tune of the said amount which we have in principle, gotten approval to remit by Key tested Telegraphic Transfer (K.T.T) to any foreign bank account you will provide by filing in an application through the Justice Ministry here in South Africa for the transfer of rights and privileges of the former contractor to you. I have the authority of my partners involved to propose that should you be willing to assist us in the transaction, your share of the sum will be 25% of the $35.5 million, 70% for us and 5% for taxation and miscellaneous expenses. The business itself is 100% safe, on your part provided you treat it with utmost secrecy and confidentiality. Also your area of specialization = is not a hindrance to the successful execution of this transaction. I have reposed my confidence in you and hope that you will not disappoint me. = Endeavour to communicate back to me with the above E-mail Address indicating = to your interest or not to enable us look for another foriegn partner that = will be willing to be a part of this deal. I want to assure you that my partners and myself are in a position to make = the payment of this claim possible provided you can give us strong assurances that our share will be secured. Do treat this matter very = confidentially as we will not comprehend with any form of exposures as we are still in = active Government Service. We await your prompt response as time is of the essence. Yours faithfully, MR. Makeba Maxwel. --14c00928-f8b4-4493-9345-03e3f65b675d-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Jan 5 19:45:09 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 5 Jan 2003 19:37:58 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: cmecsz.com!fortune From: Caroline Chen To: glass@bungi.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="7b6226a4-214d-11d7-9c7e-5254ab35d630" Subject: WALL REPAIR TAPE Date: Mon, 06 Jan 2003 11:28:40 +0800 Message-ID: Precedence: bulk This is a multi-part message in MIME format --7b6226a4-214d-11d7-9c7e-5254ab35d630 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Dear Manager Happy New Year !!!!!!! If this e-mail disturbs you , please forgive us!!!. It may interest you to learn that our company, CMEC Suzhou Co., Inc. is = possibly the laregest FIBREGLASS WALL REPAIR TAPE exporter from China. Our = product can be found in the U.S.A., all European countries, as well as other = countries around the world. Our product quality is excellent, and because of = volume, we are able to offer all of our products at very competitive prices. With advanced technology and manufacturing equipment, strict quality control = throughout the manufacturing process, and an attention to our customers = needs, we can supply you with various kinds of construction tools and = equipment. Our products sell well all over the world. Our exporting = experience allows us to properly prepare your shipment for safe secure = delivery and properly filled out paper work to allow your purchases to travel = through the customs process with few if any holdups. We don't say this = lightly as we ship millions of Dollars of all kinds of products to our = customers around the world. If you are looking for a supplier in China, please consider joining with us. = The potential is unlimited. Our product list is as follows: Construction Tools & Hardware Paint & Painting Accessories Material Handling Equipment Special Purpose Vehicles Diamond Cutting Tools Waterproof Materials Construction Meshing Job Safety Products Pallet Racking Scaffolding. Please go to our web site: = http://www.materialfair.com/web-ia/web/products.htm ( Products /Construction = Meshing / Fiberglass Mesh ) to view those products that interest you. Caroline Chen ( Manager ) Web for construction materials & tools: http://www.materialfair.com Web for diamond cutting tools: http://www.toolfair.com E-mail: info@materialfair.com & info@toolfair.com --7b6226a4-214d-11d7-9c7e-5254ab35d630 Content-Type: application/octet-stream; charset=iso-8859-1; file=fiber.jpg Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64 Content-Disposition: attachment; filename=fiber.jpg /9j/4AAQSkZJRgABAgEASABIAAD/7R0iUGhvdG9zaG9wIDMuMAA4QklNA+0AAAAAABAASAAAAAEA AgBIAAAAAQACOEJJTQPzAAAAAAAIAAAAAAAAAAA4QklNBAoAAAAAAAEAADhCSU0nEAAAAAAACgAB AAAAAAAAAAI4QklNA/UAAAAAAEgAL2ZmAAEAbGZmAAYAAAAAAAEAL2ZmAAEAoZmaAAYAAAAAAAEA MgAAAAEAWgAAAAYAAAAAAAEANQAAAAEALQAAAAYAAAAAAAE4QklNA/gAAAAAAHAAAP////////// //////////////////8D6AAAAAD/////////////////////////////A+gAAAAA//////////// /////////////////wPoAAAAAP////////////////////////////8D6AAAOEJJTQQIAAAAAAAa AAAAAQAAAkAAAAJAAAAAAgAAFoABAAAAAAA4QklNBAkAAAAAG6gAAAABAAAAgAAAAHcAAAGAAACy 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/bhdXkbnXEheWkaQMGiv0sWQuoaoa9DXsIccNVT1NVNryqWuOmGhzcagdXFYuJnanahgDgB0LFDL /9fzFYDitLOKE288ljak5rk1qum9CkkeXMZVpxBWjczvGlzsOjBcO8JXLc1JdrOf/jRnm0diIFwA k1g64+1jBZhTAghT6p/pPwQ2Z/cdS39x1+9LNU/Bp+H4rYdN9J94UjMXPSVn3PT8EtDp6+E+8Lqs /wBPYlGP3GGaz7gpcDNyK2DPyKgaxzOex7G+JzHNHWRpCQS7NukHit3kDCrRqHwR8RuNMlAa6XUp nWiXN/8Ad0Gn7r/yLN8uP21r48y/w4DZoQTJE5tPqFO1Lp5TI7Q3GvJH3x3EQ/viU5/9yuXGmtc+ nWWRvXOvJA14afLYQcXdbQWp1mbJbBtfjJPJG9ryHCh5LEbuWn7l9TxwWLeOrD//2Q== --7b6226a4-214d-11d7-9c7e-5254ab35d630-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Jan 9 09:46:18 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 9 Jan 2003 09:38:33 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: bellsouth.net!Mwwermer From: Matt-View Point Mobility To: glass@bungi.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="d5354066-5b47-4258-865f-483dafdec08a" Subject: Great Web Site & Resource Links! Date: Thu, 09 Jan 2003 11:30:47 -0600 Message-ID: Precedence: bulk This is a multi-part message in MIME format --d5354066-5b47-4258-865f-483dafdec08a Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable You Have A Great Site With Helpful Information, Resources & Links! I would = like to suggest a link for your site of a product that many visitors to your = site may have an interest in. http://www.viewpointmobility.com is for our company named View Point Mobility = and we manufacture the "VISION" rear entrance lowered floor wheelchair = minivan conversion. Take a look at the site and I think you will agree that the visitors to your = site may find the information very useful. Thank you. Matt Wermer (C-4 Quad) View Point Mobility,L.L.C. See Our " VISION VEHICLES " At: http://www.viewpointmobility.com The VISION Paratransit: The 2002 Ford Windstar VISION: The 2003 Chrysler VISION: The 2002-2003 Chevrolet Venture: The 2003 Buick Rendezvous 4x4 SUV: VIEW POINT MOBILITY, L.L.C. 1815 PALMER ST. KALAMAZOO, MI 49001 877-368-6022 info@viewpointmobility.com --d5354066-5b47-4258-865f-483dafdec08a-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Jan 9 14:28:17 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 9 Jan 2003 14:10:34 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: WALLING-BERG.COM!NZB From: "Berg, Nancy Zalusky" To: "Bob D." , Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----_=_NextPart_001_01C2B82A.B9119A00" Content-Class: urn:content-classes:message Subject: RE: Glasscraftexpo 2003 Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2003 16:01:55 -0600 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@WALLING> Precedence: bulk This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------_=_NextPart_001_01C2B82A.B9119A00 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I have just signed up to attend the glass craft expo - any advice? -----Original Message----- From: Bob D. [mailto:bobfuses@cox.net]=20 Sent: Wednesday, December 04, 2002 10:27 AM To: bungi list Subject: Glasscraftexpo 2003 =09 =09 Try this link, =20 http://www.glasscraftexpo.com/ =20 Bob in 92026 ------_=_NextPart_001_01C2B82A.B9119A00 Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Message
I have=20 just signed up to attend the glass craft expo - any = advice?
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob = D.=20 [mailto:bobfuses@cox.net]
Sent: Wednesday, December 04, = 2002 10:27=20 AM
To: bungi list
Subject: Glasscraftexpo=20 2003

Try this link,
 
http://www.glasscraftexpo.com/
 
Bob in=20 92026
=00 ------_=_NextPart_001_01C2B82A.B9119A00-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Jan 10 05:21:21 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 10 Jan 2003 04:49:32 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: edirectquotes.com!Margaret From: "margaret" To: "Glass" Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----_NextPart_8066897949" Subject: Maximize Your Trade Show Investment... Date: Fri, 10 Jan 2003 04:43:21 -0800 Message-ID: Precedence: bulk This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------_NextPart_8066897949 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: QUOTED-PRINTABLE Maximize Your Trade Show Investment Exhibiting at a trade show can exhaust your budget, time and energy. Stop concentrating on driving traffic to your booth, and start focusing on driving qualified traffic to your booth! Effective pre-show planning and preparation can help you direct the prospects you want to your exhibit. Let Adventures in Advertising help you develop a strategy to do just that! MicroMints TinColored Frosted Soft-Loop Shopping Bag Click on the images for more detail Determine your objectives, and develop a theme. Why are you exhibiting? Are you introducing a new product or service? Are you creating brand awareness? Determine your target market. Which companies and individuals do you want to visit your booth? Select current customers and qualified prospects. Prepare a pre-show mailing piece with a theme that reflects your objectives and enhances the design of the booth. Utilize a promotional product to tie in your theme and create impact. Be sure to add intrigue to entice your prospect to visit your booth. You may choose to send a card, or a key that the individual must _turn-in_ at the booth to retrieve a prize. Train booth attendants to look for attendees holding your invitation. Be sure to have another type of giveaway for the other attendees passing by, who are interested in your company. Don_t exclude anyone from your booth, but ensure that your targeted guests receive the red carpet treatment. Perform post-show follow-up. Send a themed mailing to those invited guests who stopped by the booth to thank them. A perfect way to break through the after-show clutter! Port Authority Men's Jersey Knit ShirtBean Bag Animal Click on the images for more detail Let us help you show off at your next exhibit! Contact us today for the latest in impact mailers, staff attire and giveaways! Information on Marketing is being sent to you as part of a free Business Development Service. Please distribute this information freely; however, we ask that you not change its contents. For more information on Direct Services Click here To Continue to Subscribe: To be included in future offers Click here go to opt-in and select your interest. To Unsubscribe: To unsubscribe, please Click here to send an eMail Confirmation with "unsubscribe or remove" as the subject. ------_NextPart_8066897949 Content-Type: text/html; charset="ISO-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: QUOTED-PRINTABLE Promotional Advantage

Maximize Your Trade Show Investment

Exhibiting at a trade show can exhaust your budget, time and energy.  Stop concentrating on driving traffic to your booth, and start focusing on driving qualified traffic to your booth!  Effective pre-show planning and preparation can help you direct the prospects you want to your exhibit.

Let Adventures in Advertising help you develop a strategy to do just that! 

MicroMints Tin

Colored Frosted Soft-Loop
Shopping Bag

Click on the images for more detail

Determine your objectives, and develop a theme.  Why are you exhibiting? Are you introducing a new product or service?  Are you creating brand awareness?  

Determine your target market.  Which companies and individuals do you want to visit your booth?  Select current customers and qualified prospects.

Prepare a pre-show mailing piece with a theme that reflects your objectives and enhances the design of the booth.  Utilize a promotional product to tie in your theme and create impact.  Be sure to add intrigue to entice your prospect to visit your booth.  You may choose to send a card, or a key that the individual must _turn-in_ at the booth to retrieve a prize.

Train booth attendants to look for attendees holding your invitation. Be sure to have another type of giveaway for the other attendees passing by, who are interested in your company.  Don_t exclude anyone from your booth, but ensure that your targeted guests receive the red carpet treatment.

Perform post-show follow-up.  Send a themed mailing to those invited guests who stopped by the booth to thank them.  A perfect way to break through the after-show clutter!

Port Authority Men's Jersey Knit Shirt

Bean Bag Animal

Click on the images for more detail

Let us help you show off at your next exhibit!  Contact us today for the latest in impact mailers, staff attire and giveaways!

Information on Marketing is being sent to you as part of a free Business Development Service.

Please distribute this information freely; however, we ask that you not change its contents.

For more information on Direct Services Click here

To Continue to Subscribe: To be included in future offers Click here  go to opt-in and select your interest. 

To Unsubscribe: To unsubscribe, please Click here to send an eMail Confirmation with "unsubscribe or remove" as the subject.

------_NextPart_8066897949-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Jan 10 14:52:45 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 10 Jan 2003 14:38:58 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: boss.com!big From: To: Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="CSmtpMsgPart123X456_000_01BF3A90" Subject: Re: Here is that sample Date: Fri, 10 Jan 2003 16:42:22 --0500 Message-ID: Precedence: bulk This is a multipart message in MIME format --CSmtpMsgPart123X456_000_01BF3A90 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Attached file: --CSmtpMsgPart123X456_000_01BF3A90-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Jan 11 10:37:23 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sat, 11 Jan 2003 10:18:39 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: comcast.net!cecnralph From: Cecily & Ralph Wood To: Bungi Glass Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT Subject: restoration & renovation Date: Sat, 11 Jan 2003 13:14:13 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net> Organization: Grendel Studio Precedence: bulk I'm glad to tell you that this year's National Trust for Historic Preservation is having it's big Restoration and Renovation exhibition and conference at the Convention Center in Baltimore, Maryland this year, March 19-22. Conferences, classes, exhibits, demonstrations of crafts, etc. I have NO idea of cost, but the web site will surely tell: www.restorationandrenovation.com. - Cec -- ********************************************************************* * Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood and/or Ralph Bernard Wood * Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy) ********************************************************************* ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Jan 11 13:44:27 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sat, 11 Jan 2003 13:11:34 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: s-cars.org!robert From: Robert Myers To: glass@bungi.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Subject: Newbie questions Date: Sat, 11 Jan 2003 16:06:41 -0500 Message-ID: <5.2.0.9.2.20030111155421.01405488@mail.charter.net> Precedence: bulk Hi Y'all, Let me introduce myself before I start asking questions. My name is Bob Myers and live in southern West Virginia. I am a retired chemistry professor and have just started a rather ambitious leaded beveled glass project as my very first glass project. (Yeah. I know. Silly. Start small and then do the big project. Not me. :-) ) We recently built a new home and decided we wanted to have two matching "stained glass" windows instead of window shades in the master bathroom. Things seem (so far) to be going fairly well. Cutting glass to more or less the correct dimensions and shapes has not proven to be a problem. I don't anticipate problems with soldering since I have worked with solder for many years, just not in this type of application. Now, my question of the day: I have several joints which require a fairly narrow miter for the lead came. Two pieces might come together at, say, a twenty degree angle. What tool do I need to make these miter joints meet well and look good after soldering? My lead nippers do not seem to be the proper tool for anything much less than a 60 degree miter (two 30 degree cuts). TIA, Robert Myers Rt. 4, Box 57 Fayetteville, WV 25840 USA 304-574-2372 ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Jan 11 17:25:01 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sat, 11 Jan 2003 16:58:01 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: charter.net!mbeisner From: "MB" To: Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0016_01C2B9A2.47A2B040" Subject: Re: newbie question Date: Sat, 11 Jan 2003 18:50:15 -0600 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@charter.net> Precedence: bulk This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0016_01C2B9A2.47A2B040 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi, Have you tried a lead knife? or a razor blade? What I do is first lay = the lead along the line of glass, positioning it just where it will lay = once it's got the glass in the channel, but above the glass and = overlapping the lead that it will be joined to. Then I mark it with a = razor blade, nice and straight, remove it after it's been marked. For = an angle that degree, I have my best luck cutting the lead with a razor. = Just rock it back and forth with some pressure til it's cut through the = top part (can't remember that term, sorry!) then once it's through the = top, rock it side to side until it cuts through the heart of the came. = Once it's down to that bottom part, then rock it back and forth again = til your'e through that. Be careful not to let the came tourqe while = you're cutting it or it will have to be done again. It is also possible = to do this with a nippers by just taking tiny bites off the lead, = trimming it slowly from top to bottom to achieve the degree. I do have = a lead knife but it seems that the blade is too thick for me to get = those nice long points on the lead, it just smashes it so I use the = razor more than the knife. Good Luck!! M ------=_NextPart_000_0016_01C2B9A2.47A2B040 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hi,
Have you tried a lead knife?  or a = razor=20 blade?  What I do is first lay the lead along the line of glass,=20 positioning it just where it will lay once it's got the glass in the = channel,=20 but above the glass and overlapping the lead that it will be joined = to. =20 Then I mark it with a razor blade, nice and straight, remove it after = it's been=20 marked.  For an angle that degree, I have my best luck cutting the = lead=20 with a razor.  Just rock it back and forth with some pressure til = it's cut=20 through the top part (can't remember that term, sorry!)  then once = it's=20 through the top, rock it side to side until it cuts through the heart of = the=20 came.  Once it's down to that bottom part, then rock it back and = forth=20 again til your'e through that.  Be careful not to let the came = tourqe while=20 you're cutting it or it will have to be done again.  It is also = possible to=20 do this with a nippers by just taking tiny bites off the lead, trimming = it=20 slowly from top to bottom to achieve the degree.  I do have a lead = knife=20 but it seems that the blade is too thick for me to get those nice long = points on=20 the lead, it just smashes it so I use the razor more than the = knife.  Good=20 Luck!! M
------=_NextPart_000_0016_01C2B9A2.47A2B040-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Jan 12 16:24:30 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 12 Jan 2003 15:53:35 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: yahoo.com!freead From: "Support Centre" To: glass@bungi.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain;charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Subject: FREE Website Tools Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2003 23:47:42 Message-ID: Precedence: bulk Looking for FREE Tools to enhance your Website..?? Bravenet Web Services is the answer..!! What sets Bravenet apart from the rest? The ability to get all the interactive Web Site tools you could possibly need - all from one place! Whether for a personal or a commercial page, if you've got the Web Site, we've got the tools. Each service is designed for all users, from novice to advanced. Easy to set up, yet full of cool features for that professional look. For more info, visit http://www.bravenet.com/?afilid=1914474766 ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Jan 13 13:17:29 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 13 Jan 2003 12:55:13 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: stratus.com!Charlie.Spitzer From: "Spitzer, Charlie" To: "'glass@bungi.com'" Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Subject: RE: Newbie question Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 13:41:31 -0700 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@stratus.com> Precedence: bulk cut out the heart back as long as you want the angle to be, leaving the 2 surfaces. you can then use your nippers to cut the 2 surfaces to the correct angle. it makes the end of the lead be somewhat less strong, but in an entire panel, won't make much difference if at all. regards, charlie cave creek, az > -----Original Message----- > From: Robert Myers [mailto:robert@s-cars.org] > Sent: Saturday, January 11, 2003 2:07 PM > To: glass@bungi.com > Subject: Newbie questions > > > Hi Y'all, > > > Now, my question of the day: I have several joints which > require a fairly > narrow miter for the lead came. Two pieces might come > together at, say, a > twenty degree angle. What tool do I need to make these miter > joints meet > well and look good after soldering? My lead nippers do not > seem to be the > proper tool for anything much less than a 60 degree miter > (two 30 degree cuts). > > TIA, > > > > Robert Myers > Rt. 4, Box 57 > Fayetteville, WV 25840 > USA > 304-574-2372 ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Jan 14 07:12:53 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 14 Jan 2003 06:52:46 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: s-cars.org!robert From: Robert Myers To: glass@bungi.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Subject: More Newbie Questions Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 09:48:51 -0500 Message-ID: <5.2.0.9.2.20030114094101.013910a8@mail.charter.net> Precedence: bulk Hi Y'all, Thanks to several very helpful people who provided direction re: mitering lead. The joints are now ready for soldering and will be, I hope, completed a few hours after starting that job. My questions are these: 1. I have several small voids between the lead and the glass as a result of slight cutting irregularities. How much of a gap can be obscured with grout? If I need to recut and/or adjust some more I need this answer before starting soldering. 2. Do you have any favorite grout formulation for leaded windows? If so, would you mind sharing it? 3. Do you have suggestions of technique for grouting? If there is interest, I have pictures. Bob ***** Robert L. Myers 304-574-2372 Rt. 4, Box 57, Fayetteville, WV 25840 USA WV tag Q SHIP '95 urS6 Cashmere Grey - der Wunderwagen ICQ 22170244 http://www.cob-net.org/church/pvcob.htm ***** ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Jan 14 07:44:13 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 14 Jan 2003 07:20:56 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: attbi.com!r-cj-c From: "CJ" To: Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Subject: Just learning Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 10:16:53 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@attbi.com> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@stratus.com>> Precedence: bulk Hi, I'm just learning the foil method. Question is about patina. I want to patina the panel in black and also patina the zinc frame. Do I patina the frame before or after I solder it too the frame. I have the right solder for the zinc. Thanks for your help....I get alot of help from this list. CJ ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Jan 14 08:45:41 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 14 Jan 2003 08:24:33 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: charter.net!mbeisner From: "MB" To: Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_000B_01C2BBB5.FFCE4CA0" Subject: re: More Newbie Questions Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 10:16:27 -0600 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@charter.net> Precedence: bulk This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C2BBB5.FFCE4CA0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Here's a recipe for making your own mud.... 1 cup Plaster of Paris 1 1/2 cup whiting 3/8 cup turpentine 1/2 cup linseed oil 1 tsp black mortar color...(dry kind) Mix it in an old coffee can with some kind of heavy duty stick, it = should have be able to be formed in your hand, but when left to sit, = lose it's shape a bit. Not too runny though, if it is, add a bit more = whiting. If it's too dry, try adding a bit of turp and a bit of linseed = oil. This is what we used when I worked at a glass studio. Now, = personally, I have never had much luck with this at home. Mine dries = and turns to dust, not what you want for a good mud. I think it's the = brand of ingredients that are available to me, probably the turpentine, = not sure. Got sick of mixing up batches, letting some sit to dry, then = having them break apart with very little pressure. Waste of time and = $$. If you do get a batch to work out good, when you're done, cover it = with water, put the plastic cover back on the coffee can and it will = stay good til your next job. Application for this mud is very simple = and fast. Just use a natural bristle brush, like a scrub brush, to push = it under the came. Cover with whiting, let it sit for about an hour or = so, brush up most of the whiting, (run it through a screeen and save it = for your next job), brush the panel with another clean natural bristle = brush to color the lead and solder, pick, vacuum, brush, pick...let it = sit another 24 hours and then you can start your final cleaning. I have also used that Miracle Mud, the kind that comes in 2 parts, one = dry, one liquid so you can just mix up what you need for each job. It's = not bad, easy to work with, stinks to high heaven though and seems to be = very dusty. Application is as above. This recipe hardens no matter if = I cover it with water or not so I'm not too impressed with it's = "keeping" abilities. And I'm not real good at judging how much I need = for each job...yet!! =20 Have to admit though, Inland Cement is my favorite. If it has settled, = make sure you stir it good before using it. A bit stiffer though so I = can't brush it under the came, but I just "plop" some on the panel, then = take a rubber spatula and work it under the came. Again, cover with = whiting and let it sit. Just remember when you're all done, add water = before sealing the container and it won't dry out between jobs. I'm = always very pleased with the outcome when I use the Inland brand. = Leaves a nice charcoal color on the lead and solder. If you don't like = that color, you can always go over your lead lines and solder joints = with 0000 steel wool to buff them up and keep them silver color, just = wax the entire panel after you're done to keep it from tarnishing. The = steel wool is very messy though and just touching that stuff gives me = the creeps, like fingernails on a chalkboard! Can't stand it!! =20 As for how much of an area can be filled with the mud/grout...oh boy, = that's a tough one. In my opinion...none. The glass really needs to be = under that lead. Is it possible to "push" (gently!!) the lead towards = the side where there is a gap? Use your APT, a wooden stick, something = that won't scar or bend that lead, something wide enough and gentle = enough. If you can get both sides of the glass under the lead, even a = fraction of an inch, then either tape the lead in place with masking = tape, or solder while holding the lead in position. But depending on = your pattern, that might screw up your lead lines and the pattern will = be "off", then you might want to recut the piece that is shy of the = lead. Alot of work and not what you wanted to hear, sorry!! I'll be = interested to see what others have to say about this. Another option = you might try is to loosen up an area of the panel near the gap, then = just gently "jiggle" all the pieces, slighty shifting each one til all = the gaps are closed. Don't loosen up too much though and don't jiggle = too much or you could wind up having to rebuild more than what you = wanted. After you close the origional gap, check closely to make sure = you didn't create another one someplace else. If these gaps are caused = by tiny tiny "missing" pieces of glass, say near a sharp angle, then you = might be able to cover the missing glass up when you start to solder, = just add a bit more solder or fill in that spot with a tiny piece of = scrap lead, then solder. Hard to say without knowing what or where the = gaps are. =20 No matter where these gaps are, mark the pieces of glass so when you go = to do the brushing and picking, you can remember where your "problem" = spots are and go a bit easier on cleaning at those spots. I just use a = bit of masking tape to mark the piece, then draw an arrow on that = pointing to the ''spot". It really helps to remind me to be careful. =20 One little tip that you may not have thought about. If you're using a = heavy textured glass, ie...seedy, even some double glue chips, etc., = before you begin to mud, cover those textured sides with contact paper, = masking tape, something to keep the mud from entering the tiny seeds or = into the texture. Makes cleaning the panel much easier. I just cover = the whole piece, usually with masking tape, then take a razor or exacto = knife and cut around the lead lines so the mud can reach into the came, = rip off the extra "resist" and mud as usual. You can save alot of = cleaning time by masking off those heavy textured glasses before = mudding. =20 Hope this helps! M ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C2BBB5.FFCE4CA0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Here's a recipe for making your own=20 mud....
 
1 cup Plaster of Paris
1 1/2 cup whiting
3/8 cup turpentine
1/2 cup linseed oil
1 tsp black mortar color...(dry = kind)
 
Mix it in an old coffee can with some = kind of heavy=20 duty stick, it should have be able to be formed in your hand, but when = left to=20 sit, lose it's shape a bit.  Not too runny though, if it is, add a = bit more=20 whiting.  If it's too dry, try adding a bit of turp and a bit of = linseed=20 oil.  This is what we used when I worked at a glass studio.  = Now,=20 personally, I have never had much luck with this at home.  Mine = dries and=20 turns to dust, not what you want for a good mud.  I think it's the = brand of=20 ingredients that are available to me, probably the turpentine, not = sure. =20 Got sick of mixing up batches, letting some sit to dry, then having them = break=20 apart with very little pressure.  Waste of time and $$.  If = you do get=20 a batch to work out good, when you're done, cover it with water, put the = plastic=20 cover back on the coffee can and it will stay good til your next=20 job.   Application for this mud is very simple and fast.  = Just=20 use a natural bristle brush, like a scrub brush, to push it under the=20 came.  Cover with whiting, let it sit for about an hour or so, = brush up=20 most of the whiting, (run it through a screeen and save it for your next = job),=20 brush the panel with another clean natural bristle brush to color the = lead and=20 solder, pick, vacuum, brush, pick...let it sit another 24 hours and then = you can=20 start your final cleaning.
 
I have also used that Miracle Mud, the = kind that=20 comes in 2 parts, one dry, one liquid so you can just mix up what you = need for=20 each job.  It's not bad, easy to work with, stinks to high heaven = though=20 and seems to be very dusty.  Application is as above.  This = recipe=20 hardens no matter if I cover it with water or not so I'm not too = impressed with=20 it's "keeping" abilities.  And I'm not real good at judging how = much I need=20 for each job...yet!! 
 
Have to admit though, Inland Cement is = my=20 favorite.  If it has settled, make sure you stir it good before = using it.=20  A bit stiffer though so I can't brush it under the came, but I = just "plop"=20 some on the panel, then take a rubber spatula and work it under the = came. =20 Again, cover with whiting and let it sit.  Just remember when = you're all=20 done, add water before sealing the container and it won't dry out = between=20 jobs.  I'm always very pleased with the outcome when I use the = Inland=20 brand.  Leaves a nice charcoal color on the lead and solder.  = If you=20 don't like that color, you can always go over your lead lines and solder = joints=20 with 0000 steel wool to buff them up and keep them silver color, just = wax the=20 entire panel after you're done to keep it from tarnishing.  The = steel wool=20 is very messy though and just touching that stuff gives me the creeps, = like=20 fingernails on a chalkboard!  Can't stand it!! 
 
As for how much of an area can be = filled with the=20 mud/grout...oh boy, that's a tough one.  In my = opinion...none.  The=20 glass really needs to be under that lead.  Is it possible to "push" = (gently!!) the lead towards the side where there is a gap?  Use = your APT, a=20 wooden stick, something that won't scar or bend that lead, something = wide enough=20 and gentle enough.  If you can get both sides of the glass under = the lead,=20 even a fraction of an inch, then either tape the lead in place with = masking=20 tape, or solder while holding the lead in position.  But depending = on your=20 pattern, that might screw up your lead lines and the pattern will be = "off", then=20 you might want to recut the piece that is shy of the lead.  Alot of = work=20 and not what you wanted to hear, sorry!!  I'll be interested to see = what=20 others have to say about this.  Another option you might try is to = loosen=20 up an area of the panel near the gap, then just gently "jiggle" all the = pieces,=20 slighty shifting each one til all the gaps are closed.  Don't = loosen up too=20 much though and don't jiggle too much or you could wind up having to = rebuild=20 more than what you wanted.  After you close the origional gap, = check=20 closely to make sure you didn't create another one someplace else.  = If=20 these gaps are caused by tiny tiny "missing" pieces of glass, say near a = sharp=20 angle, then you might be able to cover the missing glass up when you = start to=20 solder, just add a bit more solder or fill in that spot with a tiny = piece of=20 scrap lead, then solder.  Hard to say without knowing what or where = the=20 gaps are. 
 
No matter where these gaps are, mark = the pieces of=20 glass so when you go to do the brushing and picking, you can remember = where your=20 "problem" spots are and go a bit easier on cleaning at those = spots.  I just=20 use a bit of masking tape to mark the piece, then draw an arrow on that = pointing=20 to the ''spot".  It really helps to remind me to be careful. =20
 
One little tip that you may not have = thought=20 about.  If you're using a heavy textured glass, ie...seedy, even = some=20 double glue chips, etc.,  before you begin to mud, cover those = textured=20 sides with contact paper, masking tape, something to keep the mud from = entering=20 the tiny seeds or into the texture.  Makes cleaning the panel much=20 easier.  I just cover the whole piece, usually with masking tape, = then take=20 a razor or exacto knife and cut around the lead lines so the mud can = reach into=20 the came, rip off the extra "resist" and mud as usual.  You can = save alot=20 of cleaning time by masking off those heavy textured glasses before = mudding. 
 
Hope this helps! M
 
------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C2BBB5.FFCE4CA0-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Jan 14 09:01:25 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 14 Jan 2003 08:26:17 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: island.net!seaspray From: "Synergy Glass" To: "Robert Myers" , Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Subject: Re: More Newbie Questions Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2002 16:24:33 -0800 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@island.net> References: <<5.2.0.9.2.20030114094101.013910a8@mail.charter.net>> Precedence: bulk > 1. I have several small voids between the lead and the glass as a result > of slight cutting irregularities. How much of a gap can be obscured with > grout? If I need to recut and/or adjust some more I need this answer > before starting soldering. Short answer...NONE. The glass should fit underneath the lead flanges. If there are spaces, you will need to recut the glass before soldering. PUTTY, not grout is what you use to finish the windows. If you try and fill voids with PUTTY, it will eventually drop out. Also, the purpose of putty is to keep the weather out...if you have a bit fall out later your windows will leak air and rain! > 2. Do you have any favorite grout formulation for leaded windows? If so, > would you mind sharing it? Again, you want to PUTTY the windows, not grout...that is used in mosaics. Whichever putty recipe you choose, make sure you do not use portland cement or plaster of paris as these will cause the mixture to set hard and make it difficult to impossible to do restoration or repairs down the road. Putty is a mixture of whiting, linseed oil, turpentine and lamp black, mixed to the consistency of peanut butter. > 3. Do you have suggestions of technique for grouting? I am sure there are tutorials for this on line, and again you want to PUTTY your windows, not grout. Grout is used in mosaics. If you can't find a tutorial, get one of the older "how to" instructional books such as Stained Glass Primer by Mollica. Good luck. Carol ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Jan 14 09:17:37 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 14 Jan 2003 08:27:42 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: charter.net!mbeisner From: "MB" To: Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0014_01C2BBB6.BA8E11B0" Subject: re: Just learning Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 10:21:40 -0600 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@charter.net> Precedence: bulk This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0014_01C2BBB6.BA8E11B0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable All patina should be done when the entire piece is finished. Solder = everything, then clean it good. The cleaner everything is, the better = the patina will color. Don't let the patina sit on the glass too long = or it could haze the glass. Wipe it on, it will color immediatly, then = wipe it off. After you've patinaed everything, clean it real good = again. If you notice some hazing of the glass due to the patina, there = is this stuff called The Spot Remover That Really Works, just put a dab = of that on a q-tip and touch up the glass as needed. It does "really = work"!! If you don't have any of that, maybe try Goof-Off? Not sure, = never tried that for haze. I wax all my foiled items with the Stained = Glass Finishing Compound, makes the glass just sparkle and gives an = extra "oomph" to the patinas. Good luck!! M ------=_NextPart_000_0014_01C2BBB6.BA8E11B0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
All patina should be done when the = entire piece is=20 finished.  Solder everything, then clean it good.  The cleaner = everything is, the better the patina will color.  Don't let the = patina sit=20 on the glass too long or it could haze the glass.  Wipe it on, it = will=20 color immediatly, then wipe it off.  After you've patinaed = everything,=20 clean it real good again.  If you notice some hazing of the glass = due to=20 the patina, there is this stuff called The Spot Remover That Really = Works, just=20 put a dab of that on a q-tip and touch up the glass as needed.  It = does=20 "really work"!!  If you don't have any of that, maybe try = Goof-Off? =20 Not sure, never tried that for haze.  I wax all my foiled items = with the=20 Stained Glass Finishing Compound, makes the glass just sparkle and gives = an=20 extra "oomph" to the patinas.  Good luck!! = M
------=_NextPart_000_0014_01C2BBB6.BA8E11B0-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Jan 14 10:23:04 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 14 Jan 2003 10:15:22 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: stratus.com!Charlie.Spitzer From: "Spitzer, Charlie" To: "'MB'" , glass@bungi.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Subject: RE: More Newbie Questions Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 11:02:40 -0700 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@stratus.com> Precedence: bulk the plaster sets up too hard, causing cracks, and making it impossible to do any restoration in the future. it will stick to the lead and glass too well, making it impossible to safely take a piece apart. furthermore, i believe it can etch the glass. using it is a large disservice to future restorers, unless you don't really believe that the panels should last for a long time :). regards, charlie cave creek, az > -----Original Message----- > From: MB [mailto:mbeisner@charter.net] > Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2003 11:06 AM > To: Spitzer, Charlie; glass@bungi.com > Subject: Re: More Newbie Questions > > > It's interesting to read all the opinions!! The studio I > worked at had been > using this for over 10 years and they are one of the largest > in our area > with jobs in several of the surrounding states. They've got > a good rep as > far as their work goes. Just out of curiosity, why not > Plaster of paris? Do > you have something else you use? > > Thanks! M > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Jan 14 10:40:05 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 14 Jan 2003 10:02:59 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: stratus.com!Charlie.Spitzer From: "Spitzer, Charlie" To: "'MB'" , glass@bungi.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Subject: RE: More Newbie Questions Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 10:52:34 -0700 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@stratus.com> Precedence: bulk this recipe should NOT be used. no putty should contain plaster of paris. furthermore, you have to use boiled linseed oil, or it won't harden for years, if at all. regards, charlie cave creek, az -----Original Message----- From: MB [mailto:mbeisner@charter.net] Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2003 9:16 AM To: glass@bungi.com Subject: re: More Newbie Questions Here's a recipe for making your own mud.... 1 cup Plaster of Paris 1 1/2 cup whiting 3/8 cup turpentine 1/2 cup linseed oil 1 tsp black mortar color...(dry kind) Mix it in an old coffee can with some kind of heavy duty stick, it should have be able to be formed in your hand, but when left to sit, lose it's shape a bit. Not too runny though, if it is, add a bit more whiting. If it's too dry, try adding a bit of turp and a bit of linseed oil. This is what we used when I worked at a glass studio. Now, personally, I have never had much luck with this at home. Mine dries and turns to dust, not what you want for a good mud. I think it's the brand of ingredients that are available to me, probably the turpentine, not sure. Got sick of mixing up batches, letting some sit to dry, then having them break apart with very little pressure. Waste of time and $$. If you do get a batch to work out good, when you're done, cover it with water, put the plastic cover back on the coffee can and it will stay good til your next job. Application for this mud is very simple and fast. Just use a natural bristle brush, like a scrub brush, to push it under the came. Cover with whiting, let it sit for about an hour or so, brush up most of the whiting, (run it through a screeen and save it for your next job), brush the panel with another clean natural bristle brush to color the lead and solder, pick, vacuum, brush, pick...let it sit another 24 hours and then you can start your final cleaning. I have also used that Miracle Mud, the kind that comes in 2 parts, one dry, one liquid so you can just mix up what you need for each job. It's not bad, easy to work with, stinks to high heaven though and seems to be very dusty. Application is as above. This recipe hardens no matter if I cover it with water or not so I'm not too impressed with it's "keeping" abilities. And I'm not real good at judging how much I need for each job...yet!! Have to admit though, Inland Cement is my favorite. If it has settled, make sure you stir it good before using it. A bit stiffer though so I can't brush it under the came, but I just "plop" some on the panel, then take a rubber spatula and work it under the came. Again, cover with whiting and let it sit. Just remember when you're all done, add water before sealing the container and it won't dry out between jobs. I'm always very pleased with the outcome when I use the Inland brand. Leaves a nice charcoal color on the lead and solder. If you don't like that color, you can always go over your lead lines and solder joints with 0000 steel wool to buff them up and keep them silver color, just wax the entire panel after you're done to keep it from tarnishing. The steel wool is very messy though and just touching that stuff gives me the creeps, like fingernails on a chalkboard! Can't stand it!! As for how much of an area can be filled with the mud/grout...oh boy, that's a tough one. In my opinion...none. The glass really needs to be under that lead. Is it possible to "push" (gently!!) the lead towards the side where there is a gap? Use your APT, a wooden stick, something that won't scar or bend that lead, something wide enough and gentle enough. If you can get both sides of the glass under the lead, even a fraction of an inch, then either tape the lead in place with masking tape, or solder while holding the lead in position. But depending on your pattern, that might screw up your lead lines and the pattern will be "off", then you might want to recut the piece that is shy of the lead. Alot of work and not what you wanted to hear, sorry!! I'll be interested to see what others have to say about this. Another option you might try is to loosen up an area of the panel near the gap, then just gently "jiggle" all the pieces, slighty shifting each one til all the gaps are closed. Don't loosen up too much though and don't jiggle too much or you could wind up having to rebuild more than what you wanted. After you close the origional gap, check closely to make sure you didn't create another one someplace else. If these gaps are caused by tiny tiny "missing" pieces of glass, say near a sharp angle, then you might be able to cover the missing glass up when you start to solder, just add a bit more solder or fill in that spot with a tiny piece of scrap lead, then solder. Hard to say without knowing what or where the gaps are. No matter where these gaps are, mark the pieces of glass so when you go to do the brushing and picking, you can remember where your "problem" spots are and go a bit easier on cleaning at those spots. I just use a bit of masking tape to mark the piece, then draw an arrow on that pointing to the ''spot". It really helps to remind me to be careful. One little tip that you may not have thought about. If you're using a heavy textured glass, ie...seedy, even some double glue chips, etc., before you begin to mud, cover those textured sides with contact paper, masking tape, something to keep the mud from entering the tiny seeds or into the texture. Makes cleaning the panel much easier. I just cover the whole piece, usually with masking tape, then take a razor or exacto knife and cut around the lead lines so the mud can reach into the came, rip off the extra "resist" and mud as usual. You can save alot of cleaning time by masking off those heavy textured glasses before mudding. Hope this helps! M ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Jan 14 10:51:40 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 14 Jan 2003 10:11:37 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: charter.net!mbeisner From: "MB" To: "Spitzer, Charlie" , Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Subject: Re: More Newbie Questions Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 12:06:19 -0600 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@charter.net> References: <<75F036A5970CD311A993009027283DC401FCE639@exphx.az.stratus.com>> Precedence: bulk It's interesting to read all the opinions!! The studio I worked at had been using this for over 10 years and they are one of the largest in our area with jobs in several of the surrounding states. They've got a good rep as far as their work goes. Just out of curiosity, why not Plaster of paris? Do you have something else you use? Thanks! M ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Jan 14 14:30:02 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 14 Jan 2003 14:07:25 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: yahoo.com!texpenguin From: Sherry Greer To: GlassList Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: re: newbie ?'s Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 14:01:48 -0800 (PST) Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com> Precedence: bulk Hey just a tip for those 'voids' in your panel...If it is possible to move the glass a bit in order to just barely make the edges all the way around, but gravity causes it to slip back out of place, you can place 'shim' inside your u-channel by inserting little snippets of lead into the u to lay flat against the heart, thus holding the glass slightly out from the heart. This trick saved my first panel! I also had a few solder joints that were a little bigger than necessary that covered tiny gaps as well. Usually, if a piece isn't fitting right as your laying your pattern down, you should stop right then and grind/recut it before you lay down any more lead or glass. It's frustrating but not nearly as much as tearing it all apart to get to the offending piece! Sherry ===== Sherry Greer Lady Penguinevere Designs texpenguin@tsgreer.com __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Jan 14 14:42:20 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 14 Jan 2003 14:22:36 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: cornell.edu!bjs10 From: bjs10@cornell.edu To: CJ Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Subject: Re: Just learning Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 17:19:37 -0500 (EST) Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@cornell.edu> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@attbi.com>> Precedence: bulk Solder first On Tue, 14 Jan 2003, CJ wrote: > Hi, I'm just learning the foil method. Question is about patina. I want to > patina the panel in black and also patina the zinc frame. Do I patina the > frame before or after I solder it too the frame. I have the right solder > for the zinc. > > Thanks for your help....I get alot of help from this list. > > CJ > > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Jan 14 14:59:22 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 14 Jan 2003 14:53:06 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: stratus.com!Charlie.Spitzer From: "Spitzer, Charlie" To: "'glass@bungi.com'" Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Subject: Re: Just learning Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 15:41:43 -0700 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@stratus.com> Precedence: bulk actually, unless there's a really good reason to use zinc, i'd suggest you use 1/2" lead instead. regards, charlie cave creek, az -----Original Message----- From: bjs10@cornell.edu [mailto:bjs10@cornell.edu] Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2003 3:20 PM To: CJ Subject: Re: Just learning Solder first On Tue, 14 Jan 2003, CJ wrote: > Hi, I'm just learning the foil method. Question is about patina. I want to > patina the panel in black and also patina the zinc frame. Do I patina the > frame before or after I solder it too the frame. I have the right solder > for the zinc. > > Thanks for your help....I get alot of help from this list. > > CJ > > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Jan 14 15:22:42 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 14 Jan 2003 15:12:21 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard From: Stephen Richard To: MB Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain;charset=iso-8859-1;format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Subject: Re: More Newbie Questions Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 22:52:38 +0000 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@verrier> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@charter.net>> Precedence: bulk In message <1970Jan1.000.0@charter.net>, MB =20 writes >Here's a recipe for making your own mud.... >=A0 >1 cup Plaster of Paris NO, NO.NO. NEVER USE PLASTER OF PARIS! >1 1/2 cup whiting Bump up the whiting (chalk) by one cup >3/8 cup turpentine >1/2 cup linseed oil Make sure it is boiled linseed oil (the unboiled takes years to cure) >1 tsp black mortar color...(dry kind) Or black oil paint, or carbon black >=A0 >Mix it in an old coffee can with some kind of heavy duty stick, it should >have be able to be formed in your hand, but when left to sit, lose it's sh= ape >a bit.=A0 Not too runny though, if it is, add a bit more whiting.=A0 If it= 's too dry, >try adding a bit of turp and a bit of linseed oil.=A0 This is what we used= when I >worked at a glass studio.=A0 Now, personally, I have never had much luck >with this at home.=A0 Mine dries and turns to dust, not what you want for a >good mud.=A0 I think it's the brand of ingredients that are available to m= e, >probably the turpentine, not sure.=A0 Got sick of mixing up batches, letti= ng >some sit to dry, then having them break apart with very little pressure.=A0 >Waste of time and $$.=A0 If you do get a batch to work out good, when you'= re >done, cover it with water, put the plastic cover back on the coffee can and >it will stay good til your next job.=A0=A0 Solution: since it is so easy to make, make only what is needed for the=20 panel, don't store. >Application for this mud is very simple >and fast.=A0 Just use a natural bristle brush, like a scrub brush, to push= it >under the came.=A0 Cover with whiting, let it sit for about an hour or so,= brush >up most of the whiting, (run it through a screeen and save it for your next >job), brush the panel with another clean natural bristle brush to color the >lead and solder, pick, vacuum, brush, pick...let it sit another 24 hours a= nd >then you can start your final cleaning. Yup. I agree. >=A0 >I have also used that Miracle Mud, the kind that comes in 2 parts, one dry, >one liquid so you can just mix up what you need for each job.=A0 It's not = bad, >easy to work with, stinks to high heaven though and seems to be very >dusty.=A0 Application is as above.=A0 This recipe hardens no matter if I c= over it >with water or not so I'm not too impressed with it's "keeping" abilities.= =A0 And >I'm not real good at judging how much I need for each job...yet!!=A0 >=A0 >Have to admit though, Inland Cement is my favorite.=A0 If it has settled, = make >sure you stir it good before using it. =A0A bit stiffer though so I can't = brush it >under the came, but I just "plop" some on the panel, then take a rubber >spatula and work it under the came.=A0 Again, cover with whiting and let it >sit.=A0 Just remember when you're all done, add water before sealing the >container and it won't dry out between jobs.=A0 I'm always very pleased wi= th >the outcome when I use the Inland brand.=A0 Leaves a nice charcoal color on >the lead and solder.=A0 If you don't like that color, you can always go ov= er >your lead lines and solder joints with 0000 steel wool to buff them up and >keep them silver color, just wax the entire panel after you're done to keep >it from tarnishing.=A0 The steel wool is very messy though and just touchi= ng >that stuff gives me the creeps, like fingernails on a chalkboard!=A0 Can't >stand it!!=A0 >=A0 >As for how much of an area can be filled with the mud/grout...oh boy, >that's a tough one.=A0 In my opinion...none.=A0 The glass really needs to = be >under that lead.=A0 Yes. This is right. This is why you both cut and lead to the cartoon=20 lines. If the glass does not fit the cartoon, it needs to be altered.=20 If, in leading the whole seems to be moving away from the cartoon lines,=20 even though the glass all seemed correct, your lead came is too long=20 somewhere. Take back all the leading until you get to a point where the=20 leading agrees with the cartoon. Then work systematically out from=20 there, re-cutting came where it is too long, and re-position the came=20 that you have taken out in finding the problem. >Is it possible to "push" (gently!!) the lead towards the side >where there is a gap?=A0 Use your APT, a wooden stick, something that >won't scar or bend that lead, something wide enough and gentle enough.=A0 >If you can get both sides of the glass under the lead, even a fraction of = an >inch, then either tape the lead in place with masking tape, or solder while >holding the lead in position.=A0 But depending on your pattern, that might >screw up your lead lines and the pattern will be "off", then you might want >to recut the piece that is shy of the lead.=A0 Alot of work and not what y= ou >wanted to hear, sorry!!=A0 I'll be interested to see what others have to s= ay >about this.=A0 Another option you might try is to loosen up an area of the >panel near the gap, then just gently "jiggle" all the pieces, slighty shif= ting >each one til all the gaps are closed.=A0 Don't loosen up too much though a= nd >don't jiggle too much or you could wind up having to rebuild more than >what you wanted.=A0 After you close the origional gap, check closely to >make sure you didn't create another one someplace else.=A0 If these gaps >are caused by tiny tiny "missing" pieces of glass, say near a sharp angle, >then you might be able to cover the missing glass up when you start to >solder, just add a bit more solder or fill in that spot with a tiny piece = of >scrap lead, then solder.=A0 Hard to say without knowing what or where the >gaps are.=A0 >=A0 >No matter where these gaps are, mark the pieces of glass so when you go >to do the brushing and picking, you can remember where your "problem" >spots are and go a bit easier on cleaning at those spots.=A0 I just use a = bit of >masking tape to mark the piece, then draw an arrow on that pointing to the >''spot".=A0 It really helps to remind me to be careful.=A0 >=A0 >One little tip that you may not have thought about.=A0 If you're using a h= eavy >textured glass, ie...seedy, even some double glue chips, etc.,=A0 before y= ou >begin to mud, cover those textured sides with contact paper, masking >tape, something to keep the mud from entering the tiny seeds or into the >texture.=A0 Makes cleaning the panel much easier.=A0 I just cover the whole >piece, usually with masking tape, then take a razor or exacto knife and >cut around the lead lines so the mud can reach into the came, rip off the >extra "resist" and mud as usual.=A0 You can save alot of cleaning=A0time by >masking off those heavy textured glasses before mudding.=A0 >=A0 >Hope this helps! M >=A0 With additional comments by Steve --=20 Stephen Richard, Verrier "Glass on Parade" Glasgow, Scotland ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Jan 14 16:41:24 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 14 Jan 2003 16:29:19 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: sandblaze.com!slandon From: "Sherry Landon" To: "'MB'" , Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0017_01C2BC01.4184B300" Subject: RE: Just learning Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 19:15:09 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@sandblaze.com> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@charter.net>> Organization: Sandblaze Systems Inc Precedence: bulk This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0017_01C2BC01.4184B300 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Maybe you can answer why my black patina'd zinc came turned out splotchy?? It didn't seem to "take" very well and just looks OK, to my eye anyway. Sherry -----Original Message----- From: MB [mailto:mbeisner@charter.net] Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2003 11:22 AM To: glass@bungi.com Subject: re: Just learning All patina should be done when the entire piece is finished. Solder everything, then clean it good. The cleaner everything is, the better the patina will color. Don't let the patina sit on the glass too long or it could haze the glass. Wipe it on, it will color immediatly, then wipe it off. After you've patinaed everything, clean it real good again. If you notice some hazing of the glass due to the patina, there is this stuff called The Spot Remover That Really Works, just put a dab of that on a q-tip and touch up the glass as needed. It does "really work"!! If you don't have any of that, maybe try Goof-Off? Not sure, never tried that for haze. I wax all my foiled items with the Stained Glass Finishing Compound, makes the glass just sparkle and gives an extra "oomph" to the patinas. Good luck!! M ------=_NextPart_000_0017_01C2BC01.4184B300 Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Maybe you can answer why my black = patina’d zinc came turned out splotchy?? It didn’t seem to = “take” very well and just looks OK, to my eye anyway.

 

Sherry

 

-----Original = Message-----
From: MB [mailto:mbeisner@charter.net]
Sent: Tuesday, January = 14, 2003 11:22 AM
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: re: Just = learning

 

All patina should be done = when the entire piece is finished.  Solder everything, then clean it = good.  The cleaner everything is, the better the patina will color.  Don't = let the patina sit on the glass too long or it could haze the glass.  = Wipe it on, it will color immediatly, then wipe it off.  After you've = patinaed everything, clean it real good again.  If you notice some hazing of = the glass due to the patina, there is this stuff called The Spot Remover = That Really Works, just put a dab of that on a q-tip and touch up the glass = as needed.  It does "really work"!!  If you don't have = any of that, maybe try Goof-Off?  Not sure, never tried that for = haze.  I wax all my foiled items with the Stained Glass Finishing Compound, makes = the glass just sparkle and gives an extra "oomph" to the = patinas.  Good luck!! M

------=_NextPart_000_0017_01C2BC01.4184B300-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Jan 14 20:17:16 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 14 Jan 2003 19:55:51 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: charter.net!mbeisner From: "MB" To: Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Subject: Plaster of Paris NO NO!! Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 21:55:07 -0600 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@charter.net> References: <> Precedence: bulk Thanks for the tip! Could that be why the stuff I mixed up at home turned to dust? I'm surprised that the glass studio didn't know this....makes me wonder now.... As for the linseed oil, guess I've never seen anything but boiled linseed oil, hence my omitting the "boiled" part in the recipe. Sorry for the confusion. M ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Jan 14 22:24:17 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 14 Jan 2003 22:18:01 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: aol.com!Cntherrera From: Cntherrera@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_5f.335df550.2b562a35_boundary" Subject: RE: Glass Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 22:06:29 EST Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com> Precedence: bulk --part1_5f.335df550.2b562a35_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I recently received some drinking glasses with the Los Angeles Raiders on them and would like to know if there is anyway to remove the Los Angeles. It is written small and on the back but everyone wants it removed or they don't want them. I make candles out of them. Could you please help? Thank You, Connie --part1_5f.335df550.2b562a35_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I recently received some drinking glasses with the Los Angeles Raiders on them and would like to know if there is anyway to remove the Los Angeles. It is written small and on the back but everyone wants it removed or they don't want them. I make candles out of them. Could you please help?
Thank You, Connie
--part1_5f.335df550.2b562a35_boundary-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Jan 15 12:32:33 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 15 Jan 2003 11:48:44 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: attbi.com!byronw26 From: "Byron Wells" To: Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_000F_01C2BC9B.DCF93EB0" Subject: Flat glass info Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 13:41:53 -0600 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@attbi.com> Precedence: bulk This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000F_01C2BC9B.DCF93EB0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hey all... I'm expanding from my base in stained glass and sandblasting over into = mirrors and shower doors etc... Any good info sites etc for flat glass = around?? Please email me as I don't wanna clog up Bungi with off topic stuff.. Thanks in advance! Byron... Wells Glassworks www.wellsglassworks.com ------=_NextPart_000_000F_01C2BC9B.DCF93EB0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hey all...
 
I'm expanding from my base in stained glass and = sandblasting=20 over into mirrors and shower doors etc... Any good info sites etc for = flat glass=20 around??
 
Please email me as I don't wanna clog up Bungi with = off topic=20 stuff..
 
Thanks in advance!
 
Byron...
Wells Glassworks
www.wellsglassworks.com
 
------=_NextPart_000_000F_01C2BC9B.DCF93EB0-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Jan 15 20:22:37 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 15 Jan 2003 20:12:32 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: attbi.com!byronw26 From: "Byron Wells" To: Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_001C_01C2BCE1.E833AF40" Subject: Re: Flat glass info Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 22:03:16 -0600 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@attbi.com> References: <<75F036A5970CD311A993009027283DC401FCE654@exphx.az.stratus.com>> Precedence: bulk This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_001C_01C2BCE1.E833AF40 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hey Charlie... I guess I wasn't very clear in my post... I already do stained and = blasted glass.. I am adding mirrors, shower doors etc and was looking = for flat glass info/sites... ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Spitzer, Charlie=20 To: 'Byron Wells'=20 Sent: Wednesday, January 15, 2003 2:46 PM Subject: RE: Flat glass info look up norm dobbins, out of new mexico. he's generally recognized as = one of the best in the country. he does lots of classes, and has a bunch = of books out. regards, charlie cave creek, az -----Original Message----- From: Byron Wells [mailto:byronw26@attbi.com] Sent: Wednesday, January 15, 2003 12:42 PM To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Flat glass info Hey all... I'm expanding from my base in stained glass and sandblasting over = into mirrors and shower doors etc... Any good info sites etc for flat = glass around?? Please email me as I don't wanna clog up Bungi with off topic = stuff.. Thanks in advance! Byron... Wells Glassworks www.wellsglassworks.com ------=_NextPart_000_001C_01C2BCE1.E833AF40 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hey Charlie...
 
I guess I wasn't very clear in my post... I already = do stained=20 and blasted glass.. I am adding mirrors, shower doors etc and was = looking for=20 flat glass info/sites...
 
 
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 Spitzer, Charlie =
Sent: Wednesday, January 15, = 2003 2:46=20 PM
Subject: RE: Flat glass = info

look=20 up norm dobbins, out of new mexico. he's generally recognized as one = of the=20 best in the country. he does lots of classes, and has a bunch of books = out.
 
regards,
charlie
cave=20 creek, az
-----Original Message-----
From: Byron Wells=20 [mailto:byronw26@attbi.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 15, = 2003=20 12:42 PM
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: = Flat=20 glass info

Hey all...
 
I'm expanding from my base in stained glass and=20 sandblasting over into mirrors and shower doors etc... Any good info = sites=20 etc for flat glass around??
 
Please email me as I don't wanna clog up Bungi = with off=20 topic stuff..
 
Thanks in advance!
 
Byron...
Wells Glassworks
www.wellsglassworks.com
 
------=_NextPart_000_001C_01C2BCE1.E833AF40-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Jan 16 14:21:38 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 16 Jan 2003 13:48:38 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard From: Stephen Richard To: Sherry Greer Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain;charset=us-ascii;format=flowed Subject: Re: newbie ?'s Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 23:07:45 +0000 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@verrier> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>> Precedence: bulk It is also possible to use varying sizes of lead came. In fact varying widths add interest to a panel, if used carefully. They can provide emphasis to various elements, and reduce the importance of others. Steve In message <1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>, Sherry Greer writes >Hey just a tip for those 'voids' in your >panel...If it is possible to move the glass a bit >in order to just barely make the edges all the >way around, but gravity causes it to slip back >out of place, you can place 'shim' inside your >u-channel by inserting little snippets of lead >into the u to lay flat against the heart, thus >holding the glass slightly out from the heart. >This trick saved my first panel! I also had a >few solder joints that were a little bigger than >necessary that covered tiny gaps as well. >Usually, if a piece isn't fitting right as your >laying your pattern down, you should stop right >then and grind/recut it before you lay down any >more lead or glass. It's frustrating but not >nearly as much as tearing it all apart to get to >the offending piece! >Sherry > >===== >Sherry Greer >Lady Penguinevere Designs >texpenguin@tsgreer.com > >__________________________________________________ >Do you Yahoo!? >Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. >http://mailplus.yahoo.com >---- >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com >To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass -- Stephen Richard, Verrier "Glass on Parade" Glasgow, Scotland ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Jan 16 15:56:51 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 16 Jan 2003 15:32:58 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: aol.com!CUngv From: CUngv@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Subject: Re: bungi:kaleidoscope parts Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 18:23:42 EST Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com> Precedence: bulk Hi, Does anyone know of a source for threaded brass rods, about 1/8 inch in diameter (the lenght does not matter as they can be cut) and threaded brass balls? I could also use some brass "eyelets" that would fit over the rods.I am making some kaleidoscopes and the only source I can find is Clarity, who sells these pieces as part of a package that includes parts I don't need. Thanks in advance for any suggestions. Carolyn ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Jan 16 21:38:25 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 16 Jan 2003 21:21:40 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: earthlink.net!glasscutter From: Gerry Phibbs To: CUngv@aol.com, glass@bungi.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Subject: Re: bungi:kaleidoscope parts Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 21:06:51 +0000 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@earthlink.net> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>> Precedence: bulk Hi Carolyn, As for those brass threaded rods.. you're looking in the wrong place. Visit your local independent hardware store. You're looking for brass threaded rod.. typically available in thread sizes 4-40 (harder to find, but really small), 6-32, 8-32, 10-24 & 10-32, 1/4-20 and on up. For that 1/8" diameter, I'd suggest trying the 6/32, that's as close to 1/8" as you're likely to find, but you may be able to work with the slightly larger 8-32. In most cases, you can find these brass rods in 12" lengths, and in some places, you may be lucky enough to find them in 36" lengths, but those are a bit harder to find. The same goes with those threaded "cap nuts". You can fairly easily find threaded brass "acorn" style cap nuts, rounded end with a hex shape on the bottom end. At a lighting shop, you can probably find some round balls that are threaded 8-32, as these are commonly used for mounting light fixtures. There are also "terminal" nuts, that have a threaded hole all the way through, with knurling on the outside, generally used to make electrical connections, but if they work for your application.. they don't know where they are.. and don't much care! (grin) Should your local independent hardware store not carry the right size, or length of these rods for you, they should be able to special order them.. they're fairly commonly available in the hardware trade, but they may not have much of a demand for them at their store. Good luck, and.. Peace -Gerry ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Jan 17 09:39:40 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 17 Jan 2003 09:30:41 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: stratus.com!Charlie.Spitzer From: "Spitzer, Charlie" To: "'glass@bungi.com'" Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Subject: FW: bungi:kaleidoscope parts Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 10:12:37 -0700 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@stratus.com> Precedence: bulk it's not that hard to find brass rod and a die to cut your own threads is only a few dollars. that might even look better than a rod that is completely threaded. regards, charlie cave creek, az -----Original Message----- From: Gerry Phibbs [mailto:glasscutter@earthlink.net] Sent: Thursday, January 16, 2003 2:07 PM To: CUngv@aol.com; glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: bungi:kaleidoscope parts Hi Carolyn, As for those brass threaded rods.. you're looking in the wrong place. Visit your local independent hardware store. You're looking for brass threaded rod.. typically available in thread sizes 4-40 (harder to find, but really small), 6-32, 8-32, 10-24 & 10-32, 1/4-20 and on up. For that 1/8" diameter, I'd suggest trying the 6/32, that's as close to 1/8" as you're likely to find, but you may be able to work with the slightly larger 8-32. In most cases, you can find these brass rods in 12" lengths, and in some places, you may be lucky enough to find them in 36" lengths, but those are a bit harder to find. The same goes with those threaded "cap nuts". You can fairly easily find threaded brass "acorn" style cap nuts, rounded end with a hex shape on the bottom end. At a lighting shop, you can probably find some round balls that are threaded 8-32, as these are commonly used for mounting light fixtures. There are also "terminal" nuts, that have a threaded hole all the way through, with knurling on the outside, generally used to make electrical connections, but if they work for your application.. they don't know where they are.. and don't much care! (grin) Should your local independent hardware store not carry the right size, or length of these rods for you, they should be able to special order them.. they're fairly commonly available in the hardware trade, but they may not have much of a demand for them at their store. Good luck, and.. Peace -Gerry ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Jan 18 09:45:53 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sat, 18 Jan 2003 09:13:20 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: scc.net!oddjob From: "Susan C.Reitmann" To: glass@bungi.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Subject: Kaleidoscope Oil Date: Sat, 18 Jan 2003 10:15:14 -0600 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@scc.net> Precedence: bulk Since we are on the subject of kaleidoscopes, does anyone know what the oil(?) is that the colored pieces in the wheel are suspended in? Not the long wand type tubes that have been on the market for some years. The ones that I saw were the type that are in the kaleidoscope pattern books. Think it could have been glycerin? Sue in Mpls.,MN ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Jan 18 10:44:17 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sat, 18 Jan 2003 10:43:00 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: aol.com!Bergjuca From: Bergjuca@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Subject: bungi: looking for a peacock pattern Date: Sat, 18 Jan 2003 13:36:39 EST Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com> Precedence: bulk hey gang, i'm looking for a peacock pattern or picture that will work for a sidelight to a front door. i've seen a few and one in particular that i liked but for the life of me i can't seem to locate it again. does anyone have any ideas on sites where i might find this? i've used google.com but am not really coming up with what i want. is there another good search engine or site? thanks! jules ontario ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Jan 18 11:46:09 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sat, 18 Jan 2003 11:16:54 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: attbi.com!jerryc34 From: Jerry To: Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: multipart/mixed; boundary="B_3125743445_1565358" Subject: Shimmery green glass ??? Date: Sat, 18 Jan 2003 14:03:50 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@attbi.com> Precedence: bulk > This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. --B_3125743445_1565358 Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit I hope I'm not violating any rules but I scanned up a small sample of this glass I just cut, do any of you think you could pinpoint what manufacturer made it? This glass is beautiful and I'd like to see what other colouors they offer it in. It is a really nice multi green that looks as if it's got TINY specks of gold glitter in it. The smoother side has a texture similar to water glass, the other side has a rougher texture, not sure what you'd call it. Do any of you have any idea who might have manufactured this? Any insight appreciated. Thanks in advance... 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13:18:46 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sat, 18 Jan 2003 13:07:28 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: ptdprolog.net!suzi1025 From: suzanne albright To: Jerry , Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit Subject: Re: Shimmery green glass ??? Date: Sat, 18 Jan 2003 16:04:21 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@ptdprolog.net> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@attbi.com>> Precedence: bulk Jerry, I'm wondering if it"s Bullseye BU2112. It's the only glass I've seen with small flecks of shimmering gold in it. I believe it's called aventurine green. Bullseye makes a variety of exceedingly beautiful glass. Suzanne on 1/18/03 2:03 PM, Jerry at jerryc34@attbi.com wrote: > I hope I'm not violating any rules but I scanned up a small sample of this > glass I just cut, do any of you think you could pinpoint what manufacturer > made it? This glass is beautiful and I'd like to see what other colouors > they offer it in. > > It is a really nice multi green that looks as if it's got TINY specks of > gold glitter in it. The smoother side has a texture similar to water glass, > the other side has a rougher texture, not sure what you'd call it. > > Do any of you have any idea who might have manufactured this? Any insight > appreciated. > > Thanks in advance... > > Jerry > > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Jan 18 14:51:43 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sat, 18 Jan 2003 14:38:13 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: 1-nil.com!wild58 From: "Bill Friends" To: glass@bungi.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Subject: About your Date: Sat, 18 Jan 2003 15:09:54 -0700 Message-ID: Precedence: bulk About your results, and free software I just finished reading your post on our FFA page and I wonder if you got the results you wanted? You might want to try some FREE promotional software that I have had some great success with. Just click on the address below: http://marketsoft.5er.com I wish you the very best in all your endeavors. Have a great week. Dr. Bill Go here now! http://marketsoft.5er.com To save when you shop go here http://shopnow.iwebland.com ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||| This is a time delayed reply based on your ffa posting ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Jan 18 15:05:59 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sat, 18 Jan 2003 14:20:35 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: realtyagent.com!c21joe From: Joe Foster To: glass@bungi.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Subject: New Jersey (USA) Land of Opportunity Date: Sat, 18 Jan 2003 14:12:23 -0800 (PST) Message-ID: Precedence: bulk CENTURY 21

 

 

 

CENTURY 21

Candid Realty Inc.*

217 Route 130 N.

Bordentown, NJ 08505

 

 

Hi:

 

My name is Joe Foster - Broker Associate.   I have been assisting clients, agents, brokers, and financial organization in New Jersey, USA for over 30 years.  Located at exit 7 of the New Jersey Turnpike and just 3 miles from the Pennsylvania Turnpike extension makes my agency convenient to most of New Jersey.  My location is only 60 miles from New York City and 30 Miles from the City of Philadelphia. For businesses looking to expand or relocate, we have major airports, rails, highways, and sea ports.  There is a large, highly trained and experienced work force in the surrounding area.

 

What ever your needs, corporate investor, individual investor, referral, relocation, accountant, legal, or financial, I can assist you in meeting your requirements in New Jersey. I am experienced with commercial, investment, and residential properties.  No transaction is too large.  I service national and international clients.

 

Just a little about me. 

Education:

      1. Completed graduate programs in Finance and Banking at the Universities of        

    Wisconsin and Delaware 

2. Completed the Arden House program at the Columbia University for Executive

          Management      

      3. Graduate of the Princeton School for Real Estate Brokers

 

Experience:

     Over 30 years experience in Real Estate & Finance all in New Jersey.  I have never relocated more than 2 miles from where I grew up.  Very active in my community and been elected to serve on the local School Board and Town Council. Other activities included business organizations, Lions, Elks, and community projects.

 

If this subject matter does not interest you, then I apologize for taking your time. Please click this link remove@century21joe.com  and you should not hear from me again.

 

If I can assist you in any way please contact me at joe@century21joe.com  or visit my web site at http://www.century21newjersey.net.

 

*Each Office Independently Owned and Operated

     

---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Jan 19 06:29:59 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 19 Jan 2003 06:12:23 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: aol.com!CUngv From: CUngv@aol.com To: oddjob@scc.net, glass@bungi.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Subject: Re: Kaleidoscope Oil Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 09:08:31 EST Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com> Precedence: bulk Sue, I have The Kaleidoscope Book, edited by Thom Boswell. There are many beautiful kaleidoscopes featured in the book. The only reference I find to oil used to suspend objects is to "pure mineral oil." Hope this helps. Carolyn ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Jan 19 10:12:11 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 19 Jan 2003 10:03:00 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: vcn.com!birkie From: "Vicki" To: Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: Multipart/related; Subject: Re: bungi: looking for a peacock pattern Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 10:56:23 -0700 (Mountain Standard Time) Message-ID: <3E2AE6C7.000001.53883@0020883031> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>> Precedence: bulk --------------Boundary-00=_Z53ZQL80000000000000 Content-Type: Multipart/Alternative; boundary="------------Boundary-00=_Z53ZLVC0000000000000" --------------Boundary-00=_Z53ZLVC0000000000000 Content-Type: Text/Plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable There is a nice Peacock pattern in the Winter 1995/96 Glass Patterns Quarterly.=0D =0D Vicki --------------Boundary-00=_Z53ZLVC0000000000000 Content-Type: Text/HTML; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
There is a nice Peacock pattern in the Winter 1995/96 Glass Patterns= Quarterly.
 
Vicki
 
______________________= ______________________________
<= A href=3D"http://www.incredimail.com/redir.asp?ad_id=3D309&lang=3D9">= 3D""  IncrediMail - Email has= finally evolved - = Click Here
--------------Boundary-00=_Z53ZLVC0000000000000-- --------------Boundary-00=_Z53ZQL80000000000000 Content-Type: image/gif; name="IMSTP.gif" Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64 Content-ID: <5B1B92C6-E399-4B18-A62E-95524B01D5A0> R0lGODlhFAAPALMIAP9gAM9gAM8vAM9gL/+QL5AvAGAvAP9gL////wAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAACH/C05FVFNDQVBFMi4wAwEAAAAh+QQJFAAIACwAAAAAFAAPAAAEVRDJSaudJuudrxlEKI6B URlCUYyjKpgYAKSgOBSCDEuGDKgrAtC3Q/R+hkPJEDgYCjpKr5A8WK9OaPFZwHoPqm3366VKyeRt E30tVVRscMHDqV/u+AgAIfkEBWQACAAsAAAAABQADwAABBIQyUmrvTjrzbv/YCiOZGmeaAQAIfkE CRQACAAsAgABABAADQAABEoQIUOrpXIOwrsPxiQUheeRAgUA49YNhbCqK1kS9grQhXGAhsDBUJgZ AL2Dcqkk7ogFpvRAokSn0p4PO6UIuUsQggSmFjKXdAgRAQAh+QQFCgAIACwAAAAAFAAPAAAEEhDJ Sau9OOvNu/9gKI5kaZ5oBAAh+QQJFAAIACwCAAEAEAANAAAEShAhQ6ulcg7Cuw/GJBSF55ECBQDj 1g2FsKorWRL2CtCFcYCGwMFQmBkAvYNyqSTuiAWm9ECiRKfSng87pQi5SxCCBKYWMpd0CBEBACH5 BAVkAAgALAAAAAAUAA8AAAQSEMlJq7046827/2AojmRpnmgEADs= --------------Boundary-00=_Z53ZQL80000000000000-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Jan 19 10:45:14 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 19 Jan 2003 10:32:27 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: vcn.com!birkie From: "Birkie" To: Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Subject: re: Peacock Pattern Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 11:28:42 -0700 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@vcn.com> Precedence: bulk Don't know what happened with the last email I just sent (when I got it, it was blank on my end)...so here I go again :-) There is a nice pattern in the Winter 1995/96 Glass Patterns Quarterly. Vicki ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Jan 19 11:39:49 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 19 Jan 2003 11:33:08 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: yahoo.com!agacic From: Alex Gacic To: glass@bungi.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: Forming & shaping copper tubing & wire Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 11:29:49 -0800 (PST) Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com> Precedence: bulk Hi Guys Can anyone tell me some ways to form & shape copper tubing and wire. I'm trying to use some 3/8 and 1/2 in. soft copper tubing, but it's very hard to get the curves and bends I want without kinks. I also have trouble with some of the larger gauge copper wire. Thanks Alex Gacic __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Jan 19 22:31:48 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 19 Jan 2003 22:14:05 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: earthlink.net!glasscutter From: Gerry Phibbs To: Alex Gacic , glass@bungi.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Subject: Re: Forming & shaping copper tubing & wire Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 22:05:56 +0000 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@earthlink.net> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>> Precedence: bulk Hi Alex, Visit your local independent hardware store, or possibly your local auto parts supply house. There are special "tubing benders", that allow you to make kink free bends in copper tubing. The cheaper versions, (one maker is KD Tools), look sorta like an aluminum fist.. there are different sized grooves for different sized tubing, that fit in this semicircular tool. You put your piece of tubing in the appropriate groove, and gently work it through the arc, or such portion of the arc as you need. The higher end tools, work much better (one maker is Imperial), but it's a single sized bender for a single size of tubing, and they're a good bit more expensive ($40+). These have a circular steel mandrel with the appropriate sized groove, and a "follower" on a long handle, that allows you to have some real leverage to make the bend. With the follower on the outside of the tubing, and the proper sized groove on the interior of the bend, you get a very smooth and clean bend.. no kinks. A couple of hints from an old tubing bender. If at all possible, anneal that copper tubing before you decide to bend it. To anneal copper, you need to get it red hot, and then allow it to cool down slowly all by itself. There's no need to anneal the entire section of tubing if you're only bending a section of it, just anneal that. Yes.. this will discolor the tubing, it'll turn at first an interesting blue color, and then it'll go black with oxide. Some steel wool and a minor bit of elbow grease will remove the coloration. Also, for the larger diameter tubing (the 3/8" is right at the line.. the 1/2" is definitely larger diameter tubing), if you can apply a lubricant of some sort to the tubing, the size specific high end benders will do a better job. I've used paraffin wax, a thin coat of grease, and at times.. just some light oil.. it depended on what I had on hand. The lubricant lets the bender go over the surface without leaving as many imperfections. Again, a good cleaning and you're back in business. Bending wire is a bit different, since you're bending a solid, but there are several wire bending jigs available, you can find them in some hardware stores, and some specialty shops, like craft outlets. They're not terribly large, but offer you a solid mandrel around which to form the wire. Again, annealing does help, but the wire won't really kink, since it's solid. Finally, there are some really interesting techniques for making very complex and unusual bent shapes in tubing, copper in particular. Again, it all begins with annealing the copper. Then, there are special "bending alloys", that are metal alloys with low melting temperatures. Cerro-Bend is one brand name.. most are alloys of bismuth. At any rates.. these alloys melt at the temperature of boiling water (actually a bit under that). So, you take your annealed bit of tubing (that you've also cleaned up from the inside with a bore brush), and tape over one end to close it. Then you take your molten alloy, and introduce it into the tube (I find preheating the tube a bit, or standing it in hot water makes this work better). Fill up the tube.. make sure that there are no air pockets.. and allow it all to cool down. Now, do your bending.. since you've turned the tube into a "solid", the bends will be harder to make, but for the same reason, the tubing doesn't collapse. Bend it any way that suits you.. and when you're finished bending, stick the thing back into some boiling water. The alloy will melt out, and flow out.. and you've got your hollow bent shape! The alloy can be reused many, many times.. so don't throw it out. While this is a whole lot more complicated than you'll probably ever want to do.. it's nice to know that there is a way to do it, and it's not as complex as you may have once thought. Good Luck, and.. Peace - Gerry ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Jan 20 08:45:53 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 20 Jan 2003 08:17:33 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: stratus.com!Charlie.Spitzer From: "Spitzer, Charlie" To: glass@bungi.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Subject: RE: bungi: looking for a peacock pattern Date: Mon, 20 Jan 2003 07:57:03 -0700 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@stratus.com> Precedence: bulk http://www.warner-criv.com/search/pat_search.asp?mscssid=&ct=wc_patterns&q1= peacock regards, charlie cave creek, az > -----Original Message----- > From: Bergjuca@aol.com [mailto:Bergjuca@aol.com] > Sent: Saturday, January 18, 2003 11:37 AM > To: glass@bungi.com > Subject: bungi: looking for a peacock pattern > > > hey gang, i'm looking for a peacock pattern or picture that > will work for a > sidelight to a front door. i've seen a few and one in > particular that i > liked but for the life of me i can't seem to locate it again. > does anyone > have any ideas on sites where i might find this? i've used > google.com but am > not really coming up with what i want. is there another good > search engine > or site? thanks! > jules > ontario > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Jan 20 09:13:50 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 20 Jan 2003 08:17:33 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: stratus.com!Charlie.Spitzer From: "Spitzer, Charlie" To: glass@bungi.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Subject: RE: bungi: looking for a peacock pattern Date: Mon, 20 Jan 2003 07:57:03 -0700 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@stratus.com> Precedence: bulk http://www.warner-criv.com/search/pat_search.asp?mscssid=&ct=wc_patterns&q1= peacock regards, charlie cave creek, az > -----Original Message----- > From: Bergjuca@aol.com [mailto:Bergjuca@aol.com] > Sent: Saturday, January 18, 2003 11:37 AM > To: glass@bungi.com > Subject: bungi: looking for a peacock pattern > > > hey gang, i'm looking for a peacock pattern or picture that > will work for a > sidelight to a front door. i've seen a few and one in > particular that i > liked but for the life of me i can't seem to locate it again. > does anyone > have any ideas on sites where i might find this? i've used > google.com but am > not really coming up with what i want. is there another good > search engine > or site? thanks! > jules > ontario > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Jan 20 09:44:04 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 20 Jan 2003 08:21:21 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: stratus.com!Charlie.Spitzer From: "Spitzer, Charlie" To: glass@bungi.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Subject: RE: Shimmery green glass ??? Date: Mon, 20 Jan 2003 07:58:56 -0700 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@stratus.com> Precedence: bulk yes, bullseye adventurine green. it also comes in blue. http://www.bullseye-glass.com/products/sctran.html regards, charlie cave creek, az > -----Original Message----- > From: Jerry [mailto:jerryc34@attbi.com] > Sent: Saturday, January 18, 2003 12:04 PM > To: glass@bungi.com > Subject: Shimmery green glass ??? > > > I hope I'm not violating any rules but I scanned up a small > sample of this > glass I just cut, do any of you think you could pinpoint what > manufacturer > made it? This glass is beautiful and I'd like to see what > other colouors > they offer it in. > > It is a really nice multi green that looks as if it's got > TINY specks of > gold glitter in it. The smoother side has a texture similar > to water glass, > the other side has a rougher texture, not sure what you'd call it. > > Do any of you have any idea who might have manufactured this? > Any insight > appreciated. > > Thanks in advance... > > Jerry > > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Jan 20 14:10:28 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 20 Jan 2003 13:44:56 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: yahoo.com!texpenguin From: Sherry Greer To: GlassList Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: bending tubing Date: Mon, 20 Jan 2003 13:13:45 -0800 (PST) Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com> Precedence: bulk I've seen inexpensive tools for bending tubing that are basically heavy duty springs just large enough to fit over your tube, that supports the tube while you bend, but doesn't allow it to kink. Similar to the spring you sometimes see over the end of your garden hose at the spigot-again, to keep it from kinking and cutting off the water supply. Of course, you need a specific spring for each size tubing, but I bet they're quite a bit less expensive than the fancy grooved bending jigs. Sherry ===== Sherry Greer Lady Penguinevere Designs texpenguin@tsgreer.com __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Jan 20 15:13:39 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 20 Jan 2003 14:47:35 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: yahoo.com!flesien4 From: florence esien To: glass@bungi.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: URGENT ATTENTION PLEASE Date: Mon, 20 Jan 2003 14:05:57 -0800 (PST) Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com> Precedence: bulk DEAR SIR How are you my dear? I saw your contact on Internet and pick interest to write you. I am a female student from University of Zimbabwe, Harare. I am 25 years old. I’d like any person who can be caring, loving and home oriented. I will love to have a long – term relationship with you and to know more about you. I would like to build up a solid foundation with you in time coming if you can be able to help me in this transaction, Well, my father died earlier two months ago and left I and my younger brother behind. He is a king, which our town citizens titled him before he died. I was a princess to him and I am the only person who can take care of his wealth now because my younger brother is still a kid and my mother is not literate enough to know all my father’s wealth. He left up to USD20,350,000.00 dollars (Twenty Million, Three Hundred and Fifty Thousand US Dollars) with a security company in Europe and I don’t know how to and what I will do to invest this money somewhere in abroad, so that my father’s kindred will not take over what belongs to my father and our family, which they were planning to do without my present because I am a female as stated by our culture in the town. That is why I felt happy when I saw your contact because I strongly believe that by the grace of God, you will help me invest this money I am ready to pay 10% of the total amount to you if you help us in this business and another 10% interest of Annual. After Income to you., for handling this business for us, which you will strongly have absolute control over it, If you can handle this project sincerely and also willing to assist me in lifting this fund, kindly reach me and I will link you to my legal representative for further discussion. Please, note that this transaction is 100% risk free and I hope to commence the transaction as quick as possible, as soon as I hear from you, Yours sincere Princess. FLORENCE ESIEN MUGARBE __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Jan 20 18:47:26 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 20 Jan 2003 18:22:17 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: earthlink.net!glasscutter From: Gerry Phibbs To: Sherry Greer , GlassList Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Subject: Re: bending tubing Date: Mon, 20 Jan 2003 18:16:18 +0000 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@earthlink.net> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>> Precedence: bulk Hi Sherry.. Yes.. those spring benders are also available. The simple reason that I made no mention of them, is because I've used them! The problem is not so much making the bend, but the real hassle comes in trying to get the spring off the bent shape! The tubing does deform a bit, and even with just a 45 degree bend, the coils of the spring tend to hang up on the bend, making it quite difficult if not impossible to get the spring off of the copper. In extreme cases, I've had to literally unwind the spring off of the bent shape, a coil at a time.. not a particularly pleasant way to spend one's time. Further, the spring coils do leave surface impressions on the copper, and what you get is a bit obround bend, with a sort of knurled surface on the outside edges of the copper tubing, that aren't easy to remove. Spring benders are good for some things.. very small steel tubing for example, as are used for various vacuum tubes or brake lines in automotive, but I can't recommend them for use on copper tubing.. and for the sizes that were mentioned 3/8" and 1/2", they'd make the job far more hassle, and deliver an unsatisfactory result. Bending those sizes of copper, is going to be a hassle, no matter what.. especially to get a nice smooth clean bend. Commercially, a special "mandrel" bender is used. This is a specially tooled piece of equipment, where a segmented mandrel is first inserted into the tubing, and then hydraulics are used to make the bend (very precisely at that), and then this mandrel which rather resembles bead chain, but is made of hardened tool steel, is then hydraulically pulled out of the tubing while it's still being held in the larger tool. The result is a very precise, and round shaped bend, that is fairly easy to create on not just copper, but steel, aluminum, and stainless steel tubing of many sizes. But I don't recommend trying this method either, due to the expense and set up.. unless maybe you're going to make 100K pieces, all with the same bend. But hey.. go for it! Maybe they'll work for you.. and I'm all in favor of folks finding a means to do something that works for them! Peace -Gerry ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Jan 21 07:10:33 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 21 Jan 2003 07:04:03 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: stratus.com!Charlie.Spitzer From: "Spitzer, Charlie" To: GlassList Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Subject: RE: bending tubing Date: Tue, 21 Jan 2003 07:18:35 -0700 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@stratus.com> Precedence: bulk i think filling the tube with sand and plugging the ends will prevent it from kinking when bending. i know that works with acrylic tubing that is heated to bend. regards, charlie cave creek, az > -----Original Message----- > From: Sherry Greer [mailto:texpenguin@yahoo.com] > Sent: Monday, January 20, 2003 2:14 PM > To: GlassList > Subject: bending tubing > > > I've seen inexpensive tools for bending tubing > that are basically heavy duty springs just large > enough to fit over your tube, that supports the > tube while you bend, but doesn't allow it to > kink. Similar to the spring you sometimes see > over the end of your garden hose at the > spigot-again, to keep it from kinking and cutting > off the water supply. Of course, you need a > specific spring for each size tubing, but I bet > they're quite a bit less expensive than the fancy > grooved bending jigs. > Sherry > > > ===== > Sherry Greer > Lady Penguinevere Designs > texpenguin@tsgreer.com ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Jan 21 11:42:34 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 21 Jan 2003 11:12:11 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: tznet.com!diacca From: Pat Topp To: glass@bungi.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="=====================_80710758==_.ALT" Subject: sand blasting? glass Date: Tue, 21 Jan 2003 13:10:47 -0600 Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.0.20030121125815.00a24d80@mail.tznet.com> Precedence: bulk --=====================_80710758==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Hello: I purchased a unit a number of years ago, but I think the compressor is not large enough. I have a Art Blast Co. cabinet with a large nozzle/hose and a smaller pencil nozzle. I haven't used it now for several years due to the fact that it takes forever to even frost a surface, forget any cutting. The compressor has gauges on the tank showing 160 psi, but I think that was the minimum requirement listed for the equipment I am using. Question: would a larger compressor do the frosting more rapidly and do cutting? Or, am I having trouble with the grit. I remember trying a number of grits and don't remember what I have in there currently. Any suggestions? Thanks, Pat DIACCA Topp --=====================_80710758==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Hello:

I purchased a unit a number of years ago, but I think the compressor is not large enough.  I have a Art Blast Co. cabinet with a large nozzle/hose and a smaller pencil nozzle.  I haven't used it now for several years due to the fact that it takes forever to even frost a surface, forget any cutting.  The compressor has gauges on the tank showing 160 psi, but I think that was the minimum requirement listed for the equipment I am using.  Question: would a larger compressor do the frosting more rapidly and do cutting?  Or, am I having trouble with the grit.  I remember trying a number of grits and don't remember what I have in there currently.  Any suggestions? Thanks, Pat DIACCA Topp --=====================_80710758==_.ALT-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Jan 21 12:46:38 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 21 Jan 2003 11:12:11 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: tznet.com!diacca From: Pat Topp To: glass@bungi.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="=====================_80710758==_.ALT" Subject: sand blasting? glass Date: Tue, 21 Jan 2003 13:10:47 -0600 Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.0.20030121125815.00a24d80@mail.tznet.com> Precedence: bulk --=====================_80710758==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Hello: I purchased a unit a number of years ago, but I think the compressor is not large enough. I have a Art Blast Co. cabinet with a large nozzle/hose and a smaller pencil nozzle. I haven't used it now for several years due to the fact that it takes forever to even frost a surface, forget any cutting. The compressor has gauges on the tank showing 160 psi, but I think that was the minimum requirement listed for the equipment I am using. Question: would a larger compressor do the frosting more rapidly and do cutting? Or, am I having trouble with the grit. I remember trying a number of grits and don't remember what I have in there currently. Any suggestions? Thanks, Pat DIACCA Topp --=====================_80710758==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Hello:

I purchased a unit a number of years ago, but I think the compressor is not large enough.  I have a Art Blast Co. cabinet with a large nozzle/hose and a smaller pencil nozzle.  I haven't used it now for several years due to the fact that it takes forever to even frost a surface, forget any cutting.  The compressor has gauges on the tank showing 160 psi, but I think that was the minimum requirement listed for the equipment I am using.  Question: would a larger compressor do the frosting more rapidly and do cutting?  Or, am I having trouble with the grit.  I remember trying a number of grits and don't remember what I have in there currently.  Any suggestions? Thanks, Pat DIACCA Topp --=====================_80710758==_.ALT-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Jan 21 13:44:15 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 21 Jan 2003 13:17:56 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: yahoo.com!beadnik From: Joan To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Cutting internal holes Date: Tue, 21 Jan 2003 13:13:05 -0800 (PST) Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com> Precedence: bulk MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii I would like to be able to cut an approx. 2" hole in a piece of glass that is no larger than 7" X 7" (probably more of a rectangular shape than that, actually). The 2" circle does not need to survive intact, but the outside portion does. Does anyone have suggestions for the easiest way to accomplish this, as I may need to make a number of these??? I do have a Taurus II Ring Saw... don't have the separating blade, but I could purchase one. I do NOT have access to sand blasting equipment. Any and all suggestions appreciated. Joan __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Jan 21 14:19:32 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 21 Jan 2003 14:02:05 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: stratus.com!Charlie.Spitzer From: "Spitzer, Charlie" To: glass@bungi.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Subject: RE: Cutting internal holes Date: Tue, 21 Jan 2003 14:50:54 -0700 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@stratus.com> Precedence: bulk i did this a little while ago. i used a small diameter grinderhead. mark and drill out a series of holes around the perimeter of your inside hole. enlarge one of them large enough to get your grozers into it, and just nibble out the inside. make lots of scores between the holes so once the breaks start, they run to somewhere you've planned for, rather than randomly. regards, charlie cave creek, az > -----Original Message----- > From: Joan [mailto:beadnik@yahoo.com] > Sent: Tuesday, January 21, 2003 2:13 PM > To: glass@bungi.com > Subject: Cutting internal holes > > > MIME-Version: 1.0 > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii > > I would like to be able to cut an approx. 2" hole in a > piece of glass that is no larger than 7" X 7" > (probably more of a rectangular shape than that, > actually). The 2" circle does not need to survive > intact, but the outside portion does. > > Does anyone have suggestions for the easiest way to > accomplish this, as I may need to make a number of > these??? I do have a Taurus II Ring Saw... don't have > the separating blade, but I could purchase one. I do > NOT have access to sand blasting equipment. > > Any and all suggestions appreciated. > > Joan > > __________________________________________________ > Do you Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. > http://mailplus.yahoo.com > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Jan 21 17:09:14 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 21 Jan 2003 16:41:25 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: infobal.com!RWorsnop From: Rick Worsnop To: "'glass@bungi.com'" Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Subject: RE: Cutting internal holes Date: Tue, 21 Jan 2003 19:39:32 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@infobal.com> Precedence: bulk Hi, Joan. I've had good results using a Dremel or similar rotary tool with a pointed diamond bit to drill the initial hole. You will need a separating ringsaw blade if you choose to use the saw to cut out the hole. Otherwise you can continue to grind the hole progressively larger with the Dremel tool and then your bench grinder--a gruelling task, and hard on the grinder. If you're brave, you can score the circle (1-15/16"), score 6-8 radii into the center and drill holes at the center and at the outer end of each ray. Support the sheet on a thin cardboard sheet with a 2-1/8" hole cutout, concentric with the hole scored on the glass. Now here's the trick. Drop half a dozen or so small solder balls the same thickness as the cardboard, and place them under the glass, in the hole in the cardboard, and aligned with the score lines. By tapping lightly with the butt of your cutter handle you may be able to break out the circle in several pieces. I've had success with this method, especially if I score two concentric circles, about a 1/16" difference in radius. the inner circle in this case would be about 1-7/8" and is the target diameter of the break. The outer circle at 1-15/16" is a "safety" score to contain a running radius (doesn't always work, but--what the hey--your looking for ideas, right? I happened upon the use of a small solder ball as a scoring fulcrum by accident (and a perpetually messy bench) and have used them frequently to assist with long wavy runs in "less than forgiving" glass. I lay a series of solder balls on a clean worksurface, lined-up directly under the score line (the hardest part of the process) then I gently push down on both sides of the score starting at one edge of the glass and working my way along the line. Works well most of the time. Rick in Waterloo -----Original Message----- From: Joan [mailto:beadnik@yahoo.com] Sent: January 21, 2003 4:13 PM To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Cutting internal holes MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii I would like to be able to cut an approx. 2" hole in a piece of glass that is no larger than 7" X 7" (probably more of a rectangular shape than that, actually). The 2" circle does not need to survive intact, but the outside portion does. Does anyone have suggestions for the easiest way to accomplish this, as I may need to make a number of these??? I do have a Taurus II Ring Saw... don't have the separating blade, but I could purchase one. I do NOT have access to sand blasting equipment. Any and all suggestions appreciated. Joan __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Jan 21 22:10:11 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 21 Jan 2003 21:46:06 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: verizon.net!moya.oneal From: "Moya O'Neal" To: Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0011_01C2C1A8.C1C365F0" Subject: RE: cutting a hole in the middle Date: Tue, 21 Jan 2003 23:56:46 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@verizon.net> Precedence: bulk This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C2C1A8.C1C365F0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Joan, If you have a separating blade, you are home free, almost. You must = first drill a hole carefully in order to put the separating blade = through the glass opening, then saw away. Remember not to use the same = part of the saw all the time. Good luck. Moya ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C2C1A8.C1C365F0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Joan,
If you have a separating blade, you are = home free,=20 almost.  You must first drill a hole carefully in order to put the=20 separating blade through the glass opening, then saw away.  = Remember not to=20 use the same part of the saw all the time.  Good luck.
Moya
------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C2C1A8.C1C365F0-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Jan 22 01:18:07 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 22 Jan 2003 00:48:31 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: yahoo.com!poetrylist_editor From: "Zachie" To: Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Subject: Writers wanted, readers needed Date: Wed, 22 Jan 2003 03:42:36 -0500 Message-ID: Precedence: bulk Students, teachers, readers, and writers alike, gather your paper, uncap your pens, and dust off your reading glasses because Poetrylist is back and bigger than ever. If you're a talented ambitious writer looking for a way to share your art or simply someone who loves poetry in general read on because Poetrylist will fit your needs. Poetrylist is an online newsletter that tackles many aspects of the art. Writers are able submit works and read and rate others. Readers are able to enjoy the art form that they love so much. Email Zach back for more info. Please mention ID# 121 To be remove please type remove me in the subject line. ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Jan 22 06:11:22 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 22 Jan 2003 05:56:26 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: yahoo.com!beadnik From: Joan To: Moya O'Neal , glass@bungi.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: RE: cutting a hole in the middle Date: Wed, 22 Jan 2003 05:51:04 -0800 (PST) Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@verizon.net>> Precedence: bulk Thanks for all the great suggestions. I do not have a separating blade, but I could surely purchase one.... that seems like the easiest option if I am to do a number of these. Has anyone used gthe separating blades for the Taurus??? How much of a pain are they to separate and then put together again??? Thanks again! Joan --- Moya O'Neal wrote: > Joan, > If you have a separating blade, you are home free, > almost. You must first drill a hole carefully in > order to put the separating blade through the glass > opening, then saw away. Remember not to use the > same part of the saw all the time. Good luck. > Moya > __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Jan 22 07:29:45 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 22 Jan 2003 07:17:55 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: luxsci.net!kstoop From: "" To: "glass@bungi.com" Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/related; boundary="----=_NextPart_94915C5ABAF209EF376268C8" Subject: NEWS Date: Wed, 22 Jan 2003 16:06:43 +0100 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@luxsci.net> Organization: GALERIAZERO.COM Precedence: bulk This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_94915C5ABAF209EF376268C8 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_84815C5ABAF209EF376268C8" ------=_NextPart_84815C5ABAF209EF376268C8 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable * We only send mail to subscribers=2E If=A0 for some reason this email wou= ld reach =A0 you unsolicited , our apologize=2E In that case you may unsubscribe at= :=20 =A0 http://unsubscribe=2Egaleriazero=2Ecom=A0and after you will not be =A0 contacted again=2E=A0 (Also by email is possible to: unsubscribe@galer= iazero=2Ecom) =A0 =A0 GALERIAZERO=2ECOM=A0=A0=A0=A0 http://www=2Egaleriazero=2Ecom =A0 Dear colleague,=20 =A0 In order to continue promoting your work, we would be pleased if=20 you could inform us about your actual way of working=2E=20 =A0 At the same time we wish to inform you about the advantages of=20 membership , promotion opportunities by internet and exposure in our upcoming shows=2E=20 =A0 1)=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0 About membership: Find all details at=A0=A0=A0 http://www=2Egaleriazero=2Ecom/membership=2Eh= tml=A0=A0=20 =A0 2)=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0 About internet promotion: - Host your actual webpage in GALERIAZERO=2ECOM and=20 =A0 get=A0 100 mb=A0 (inclusive email, control panel, support etc)=A0 for = just =80 50,-=20 =A0 more than your membership=2E =B7=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0 If you are not a member the costs will be=A0 =80 = 105,- (Euros) per year=2E Email us for more details:=A0 hosting@galeriazero=2Ecom =A0 3)=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0 Participate in our upcoming shows=A0 in Barcelona=2E=A0= (deadline=A0 5th February) Find details=A0 at=A0 :=A0 http://contemporary=2Egaleriazero=2Ecom =A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0= =A0=A0 http://photo=2Egaleriazero=2Ecom =A0 =A0 Looking forward to hearing from you=2E Kind regards, =A0 =A0 The direction of=A0 GALERIAZERO=2ECOM=20 =A0 =A0 =A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=20 GALERIAZERO=2ECOM ------=_NextPart_84815C5ABAF209EF376268C8 Content-Type: text/html; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

* We only send mai= l to=20 subscribers=2E If  fo= r some=20 reason this email would reach

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Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Dear sir\madam In recent times over the radio in AMERICA or even in ASIA about my family regarding huge sums of money stacked in foreign banks on different names for business .I believe is a legacy we came to meet when we became the head of state . It does not matter whether you are small or big but your ability to help me sort out things is mostly needed now .I do not justify myself but it has happened and it is mostly common with African leaders .So i need you to help me survive in life. Following the sudden death of my husband General Sani Abacha the late former head of state of Nigeria in August 1998, I have been thrown into a state of utter confusion, frustration and hopelessness by the present civilian administration, I have been subjected to physical and psychological torture by the security agents in the country. My son is under detention arraigned before the federal high court of Nigeria for an offence he did not commit and will be released on condition if we(Abacha Family)will forget about the $700 million dollars my late husband kept in Amsterdam,then my son will be released which i just agreed on last week to effect the release of my son MOHAMMED but they still held him back in prison saying until they have recovered all the money in other banks in any other country my late husband looted,You can imagine that!. As a widow that is so traumatized,I have lost confidence with anybody within the country. You must have heard over the media reports and the internet on the recovery of various huge sums of money deposited by my husband in different banks as i said earlier above abroad. Some companies willingly give up their secrets and disclosed our money confidently lodged with them and many outright blackmailed us. In fact the total sum recovered by the Government so far is in the tune of $900. Million dollars and i can boldly tell you that I dont even know about all this money sincerely until the present government started recovering them and forcing me to sign at gun point. And they are not relenting to make me poor for life. I got your contacts through my personal research,and out of desperation decided to reach you through this medium. I will give you more information regarding this as soon as you respond to this mail. I repose great confidence in you,You may not be able to talk to me on phone because more than 80 armed security operatives are daily parading my place of "House Arrest" in the Presidential Villa and the only thing I have with me is this "Laptop" they agreed to give me to keep me company in playing games not knowing the "Laptop" has internet connection from where am sending you this mail. So that is why I decided to contact you and I hope you will not betray my confidence in you. I have deposited the sum of 10.3 million dollars with a security firm abroad whose name is witheld for now until we open communication. I shall be grateful if you could receive this fund into your account for safe keeping. This arrangement is known to you and my sons Mustapha and Mohammed who is in prison alone.It will not take more than 7 working days to accomplish depending on your seriousness So my son(MUSTAFA) the only one now around in Lagos schooling in our local university will deal directly with you as security is up my whole being. I am seriously considering to settle down abroad in future in a friendly atmosphere like yours as soon as this fund get into your account so that I can start all over again if only you wish, but it is impossible for now.Just help me in diverting this fund into your account which will accrue you 30% of this fund . Please honesty is the watch word in this transaction. I will require your telephone and fax numbers so that we can commence communication immediately and I will give you a more detailed picture of things. In case you dont accept, please do not let me out to the security as I am giving you this information in total trust and confidence I will greatly appreciate if you could accept my proposal in good faith. Please expedite action. Thank You Very Much Hajia Mariam Abacha --=====================_889472414==_ Content-Type: text/html Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit


Dear sir\madam


In recent times over the radio in AMERICA or even in
ASIA about my family regarding huge sums of money
stacked in foreign banks on different names for
business .I believe is a legacy we came to meet when
we became the head of state .
It does not matter whether you are small or big but
your ability to help me sort out things is mostly
needed now .I do not justify myself but it has
happened and it is mostly common with African leaders
.So i need you to help me survive in life.
Following the sudden death of my husband General Sani
Abacha the late former head of state of Nigeria in
August 1998, I have been thrown into a state of utter
confusion, frustration and hopelessness by the present
civilian administration, I have been subjected to
physical and psychological torture by the security
agents in the country.
My son is under detention arraigned before the federal
high court of Nigeria for an offence he did not commit
and will be released on condition if we(Abacha
Family)will forget about the $700 million dollars my
late husband kept in Amsterdam,then my son will be
released which i just agreed on last week to effect
the release of my son MOHAMMED but they still held
him back in prison saying until they have recovered
all the money in other banks in any other country my
late husband looted,You can imagine that!.
As a widow that is so traumatized,I have lost
confidence with anybody within the country.
You must have heard over the media reports and the
internet on the recovery of various huge sums of money
deposited by my husband in different banks as i said
earlier above abroad.
Some companies willingly give up their secrets and
disclosed our money confidently lodged with them and
many outright blackmailed us.
In fact the total sum recovered by the Government so
far is in the tune of $900. Million dollars and i can
boldly tell you that I dont even know about all this
money sincerely until the present government started
recovering them and forcing me to sign at gun point.
And they are not relenting to make me poor for life. I
got your contacts through my personal research,and out
of desperation decided to reach you through this
medium.
I will give you more information regarding this as
soon as you respond to this mail.
I repose great confidence in you,You may not be able
to talk to me on phone because more than 80 armed
security operatives are daily parading my place of
"House Arrest" in the Presidential Villa and the only
thing I have with me is this "Laptop" they agreed to
give me to keep me company in playing games not
knowing the "Laptop" has internet connection from
where am sending you this mail.
So that is why I decided to contact you and I
hope you will not betray my confidence in you. I have
deposited the sum of 10.3 million dollars with a
security firm abroad whose name is witheld for now
until we open communication.
I shall be grateful if you could receive this fund
into your account for safe keeping.
This arrangement is known to you and my sons Mustapha
and Mohammed who is in prison alone.It will not take
more than 7 working days to accomplish depending on
your seriousness
So my son(MUSTAFA) the only one now around in Lagos
schooling in our local university will deal directly
with you as security is up my whole being.
I am seriously considering to settle down abroad in
future in a friendly atmosphere like yours as soon as
this fund get into your account so that I can start
all over again if only you wish, but it is impossible
for now.Just help me in diverting this fund into your
account which will accrue you 30% of this fund .
Please honesty is the watch word in this transaction.
I will require your telephone and fax numbers so that
we can commence communication immediately and I will
give you a more detailed picture of things.
In case you dont accept, please do not let me out to
the security as I am giving you this information in
total trust and confidence
I will greatly appreciate if you could accept my
proposal in good faith.

Please expedite action.

Thank You Very Much

Hajia Mariam Abacha



--=====================_889472414==_-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Jan 23 03:32:15 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 23 Jan 2003 03:05:59 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: juno.com!kily342py648 From: To: Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_00B7_46C63B1E.A4476C67" Subject: Massive! Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 05:42:27 +0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@juno.com> Precedence: bulk ------=_NextPart_000_00B7_46C63B1E.A4476C67 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64 RE9FUyBUSEUgU0laRSBPRiBZT1VSIFBFTklTIFJFQUxMWSBNQVRURVI/DQoN Clllc4UgTW9yZSB0aGFuIHlvdSBjYW4gaW1hZ2luZS4NCg0KQnV0IHRoZSBQ ZW5pcyBFbmxhcmdlbWVudCBNZXRob2QgeW91IA0KY2hvb3NlIG1hdHRlcnMg ZXZlbiBtb3JlIQ0KDQoNCg0KaHR0cDovL3RyZW1lbmRvdXNwZW5pcy5jb20v aW5kZXgyLnBocD9yeD0xNTI0NA0KDQo3ODA3allzdDAtMzEzREdkRTA0NDRs QkxXNi01MjBMUGZrNzI4Mkt1dnQ4LTg5Nk96VlM5MTQ3a0FZSTAtNDQ3UndK cjY5OTZUdkFBMi0wMzhFTGw3OA== ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Jan 23 13:14:30 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 23 Jan 2003 13:08:05 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: stratus.com!Charlie.Spitzer From: "Spitzer, Charlie" To: "'Lori J. Mitchell'" Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Subject: RE: re[2]: Cutting internal holes Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 13:56:34 -0700 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@stratus.com> Precedence: bulk yeah, but in my case i was cutting one 4" hole in an 18" diameter circle. it would have cost me a fortune for a 4" diamond core bit, along with the cost of a very large drill press, along with a water feed quill for it. thanks, charlie > -----Original Message----- > From: Lori J. Mitchell [mailto:lmitchell@glastar.com] > Sent: Thursday, January 23, 2003 2:00 PM > To: Spitzer, Charlie > Subject: re[2]: Cutting internal holes > > > Dear Hole Cutters, > > I think you are all doing it the hard way. Glastar has many > sizes of core > drill bits that will fit a regular hand drill or drill-press. > The core drills > have the same diamond bonded edge as the usual grinding heads > and we have many > two inch bits in stock. Not only can it make fast perfect > holes but the > circles make great eyes, grapes etc. Check out the web site > for more info. A > two inch core drill should probably run at about 500 RPMs. Good Luck. > > > Thank you, > > Lori Mitchell > Chief Executive Officer > Glastar Corporation > www.glastar.com > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Jan 23 16:48:35 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 23 Jan 2003 16:22:46 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: rdaver.bungi.com!Qbon.com/Auctions From: Qbon.com/auctions To: glass@bungi.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="edff23a3-6821-4bee-9823-4b2cc357225b" Subject: Merchandise for sale? Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 19:09:35 -0500 Message-ID: Precedence: bulk This is a multi-part message in MIME format --edff23a3-6821-4bee-9823-4b2cc357225b Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I just started a new auction website and wanted to let you know about it. = Please take a look at http://www.Qbon.com/auctions/ where there is no listing = fee. --edff23a3-6821-4bee-9823-4b2cc357225b-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Jan 27 09:23:06 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 27 Jan 2003 08:45:24 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: juno.com!mary_elsworth From: "MARY ELSWORH" To: glass@bungi.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Subject: YOUR KIND ASSISTNACE IS NEEDED Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 17:37:30 +0100 Message-ID: Precedence: bulk Your kind attention is needed=3B With due respect=2C trust and humanity=2Ci and my family send to you this letter seeking for your help and assistance although we have not meet each other before but we hope that this letter will meet you and your family in good condition of health=2EThis is not intended to cause you any embarrassment in whatever form=2C rather compel to contact your esteemed self=2C following knowledge of your high repute and trustworthiness=2Cis borne out of this difficult situation that my family has been engulfed in since my beloved husband and bread winner of our family was forced to relinquish his position in the state=2E My name is Mrs Mary Nigaga Elsworth=2Cthe wife of late Mr Henry S=2EElsworth of Kwekwe Midlands province of Harare Zimbabwe=2EI am written this letter on behalf of me and my family my son Ian Ku-Ku & my daughter Malthida daUsomma Elsworth The current war crisis against the farmers going on in my country Zimbabwe from the support of self styled President Robert Gabriel Mugabe=2Cin his envy and greediness to claim all the farms lands for his party members and his followers=2EOur cattle ranch farm is one of the best grassland cattle farm in our country=2Cbecause my husband did not support Robert Gabriel Mugabe's ideas of killing the farmers and collecting their farms lands from them=2EThis the President Robert Gabriel Mugabe orders his supporters to invaded my husbands grassland cattle ranch farm in Kwekwe Midlands province of Zimbabwe and burnt everything in the farm and made away with a lot of items on my husband's farm=2E Upon this act of greediness Mr=2Epresident have this today =22we are no longer going to ask for the land=2C but we are take it without any negotiation or compassion=22=2EMy husband was a lawmaker in the white=96dominated parliament of Rhodesia=2C as Zimbabwe was known before independence=2C and served as Independent lawmaker among 20 seats reserved for the first seven years of independence=2EHe had been an outspoken critic of President Robert Mugabe's ruling party=2E My husband has described Robert Mugabe self styled act to farmers as a unjustified war against land ownership by farmers=2E Before his death=2Cmy husband deposited with a Security Company in =28Gauteng Province=29of South Africa the sum of US$10 Million}{Ten Million United States Dollars} as precious stones and family valuables=2EThis money=2Che meant it for the opening of the new 500 acres of another cattle ranch farm in Shiselweni Village near umbuluzi river Swaziland to open with the help Swaziland Monarch=2CKing Ngeyaiama Mswati =28lll=29=2EBefore my husbands death he has this to say=2C=94 My children=2Cif the war continue like this=2CI have this to tell you as a father that you must never expect that there is a Future in this country for you all=22 After the burial of my husband and the bread winner of the family=2C me and my two children Ian Chris and Malthida daUsomma decided to move to the Republic of South Africa =28as all our hopes is no more=29 where my husband had deposited the money in a security company as precious stones and family valuables to withdraw and put in-use=2E Our hopes was turn down as they informed us that it is against the South Africa law for refugees seeking asylums in the country the right to banks or to participate in any financial transaction or to own an enterprise or company of his=2Fher own in their country=2EIt is on this note that me and my children is therefore seeking for your kind assistance to help us transfer this money to your accounts in your country as the laws of South Africa do not permit us the rights to that and this money is all me and my family hopes for=2E As a woman I have two options=3B A=3A-Firstly you can choose to have certain percentage of the money for your kind assistance in this transaction=2E B=3A- Or you can go into partnership with me and my children for the proper and profitable investment in real estates or properties and nay other lucrative venture in =2Eyour country=2E We have also mapped out 5% of this money for all kinds of expenses we might incur in the process of thistransaction=2EIf you do not prefer a partnership with us we are giving you 35% of the fund while the remaining 60% will be for my children and me and you will still help us in investing this money in a proper and profitable investment in your country because me and children do not have any knowledge of international business=2E Please if you are willing to assist me and my children e-mail=2E Finally=2C we employ your confident to this matter aswell as you love=2Ckindness and understanding=2E Hopeful to hear from you soon=2E Thanks and best regards Mrs Mary Elsworth & family=2E refugee Permit No=2ESA=2FRFI=2F007745=2F02=2FNYNMBM =5BDate 3=2F09=2F2002=5D for more informations about my late Husband go www=2E1freespace=2Ecom=2Fbeetee=2Fdec14=2Ehtml=2E ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Jan 27 11:20:59 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 27 Jan 2003 11:02:35 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: stratus.com!Charlie.Spitzer From: "Spitzer, Charlie" To: "'glass@bungi.com'" Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Subject: RE: Shimmery green glass ??? Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 11:49:52 -0700 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@stratus.com> Precedence: bulk now that i go back to it, i can't find it either. i heard on http://warmglass.com that it used to be available, but isn't from bullseye anymore, but it is available from somewhere else. i just took delivery of a sheet of the transparent green adventurine (1112-30F). it is just barely transparent. it fuses up just great, the sparklies really show up with a clear cap. regards, charlie cave creek, az > -----Original Message----- > From: CecWood [mailto:oo2kk6001@sneakemail.com] > Sent: Sunday, January 26, 2003 7:07 PM > To: Charlie.Spitzer@stratus.com > Subject: Re: Shimmery green glass ??? > > > Went to the site. I see Adventurine Green, Light Adventurine > Green, but > which blue would it be? Is the light green also sparkley? - Cec > > Spitzer, Charlie Charlie.Spitzer-at-stratus.com > |Bungier/1.0-Allow| wrote: > > >yes, bullseye adventurine green. it also comes in blue. > > > >http://www.bullseye-glass.com/products/sctran.html > > > >regards, > >charlie > >cave creek, az > > > > > > > >>-----Original Message----- > >>From: Jerry [mailto:jerryc34@attbi.com] > >>Sent: Saturday, January 18, 2003 12:04 PM > >>To: glass@bungi.com > >>Subject: Shimmery green glass ??? > >> > >> > >>I hope I'm not violating any rules but I scanned up a small > >>sample of this > >>glass I just cut, do any of you think you could pinpoint what > >>manufacturer > >>made it? This glass is beautiful and I'd like to see what > >>other colouors > >>they offer it in. > >> > >>It is a really nice multi green that looks as if it's got > >>TINY specks of > >>gold glitter in it. The smoother side has a texture similar > >>to water glass, > >>the other side has a rougher texture, not sure what you'd call it. > >> > >>Do any of you have any idea who might have manufactured this? > >>Any insight > >>appreciated. > >> > >>Thanks in advance... > >> > >>Jerry > >> > >> > >> > >> > >---- > >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > >To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > > > > > > > > -- > ********************************************************************* > * Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood and/or Ralph Bernard Wood > * Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy) > ********************************************************************* > > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Jan 27 15:10:01 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 27 Jan 2003 14:57:08 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: aol.com!WaynLinda From: WaynLinda@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Subject: mirror in stepping stone Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 17:53:03 EST Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com> Precedence: bulk Has anyone ever tried using a mirror in a stepping stone? It won't get a lot of "travel;" but I want to put it next to a waterfall and I think the mirror would reflect the water in a "cool way" Linda ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Jan 27 17:17:37 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 27 Jan 2003 17:11:39 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: aol.com!CncptThnkr From: CncptThnkr@aol.com To: WaynLinda@aol.com, glass@bungi.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Subject: Re: mirror in stepping stone Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 20:07:38 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com> Precedence: bulk Linda, I put strips of mirror in a stepping stone that has spent 2 summers and part of a Michigan winter outside. The mirror has held up perfectly to the elements. Pat ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Jan 28 07:11:38 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 28 Jan 2003 06:57:53 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles From: "Christie A. Wood" To: Bungi Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Disposition: inline Subject: mirror in stepping stone Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 09:50:46 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com> Precedence: bulk Message text written by INTERNET:WaynLinda@aol.com >Has anyone ever tried using a mirror in a stepping stone? It won't get a= lot = of "travel;" but I want to put it next to a waterfall and I think the mirror = would reflect the water in a "cool way"< I've used small pieces of mirror in stepping stones and they do just fine= . = They do get hot during the summer if left in direct sunshine. Christie A. Wood Art Glass Ensembles Denton, TX ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Jan 28 09:48:47 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 28 Jan 2003 09:11:08 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: s-cars.org!robert From: Robert Myers To: glass@bungi.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Subject: Winder Cleaning Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 12:04:30 -0500 Message-ID: <5.2.0.9.2.20030128115545.022a2450@mail.charter.net> Precedence: bulk Hi Y'all, More newbie questions: I have (almost) completed my first panel. Final cleaning remains. I have been plugging away at removing some excess Inland Cement using a variety of tools (a toothpick, a horseshoe nail, my fingernail, Windex and a rag, a dry rag, etc.) and have removed a LOT. This technique, or lack thereof, seems to be working pretty well on the smooth surfaces but there remain "stains" on the rough surface of some gluechip glass. Are there any suggestions as to how to accomplish this without extreme effort? I haven't yet tried solvents such as alcohol or acetone or methyl ethyl ketone (fingernail polish removers) but these seem likely to be the next step for me unless someone has something brilliant for me to try. It's not that I'm unwilling to expend effort but why reinvent wheels if there is something simple. TIA, Bob ***** Robert L. Myers 304-574-2372 Rt. 4, Box 57, Fayetteville, WV 25840 USA WV tag Q SHIP '95 urS6 Cashmere Grey - der Wunderwagen ICQ 22170244 http://www.cob-net.org/church/pvcob.htm ***** ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Jan 28 15:08:35 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 28 Jan 2003 15:03:04 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: netzero.net!strainsa From: "strainsa" To: Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_001C_01C2C6EE.8CB54040" Subject: patina solder discolorization Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 16:58:58 -0600 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@netzero.net> Precedence: bulk This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_001C_01C2C6EE.8CB54040 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I have made two 6 sided lamps using copper foil and black patina on the = solder when finished. I noticed that one of my lamps has what appears = as about 2 dozen light/white (almost like a water stain) 1/8 inch = circles on some of the dark patina joints. Anyone know what may have = caused this or how I can fix it and prevent it next time? Thanks. Scott Strain Arlington, Texas ------=_NextPart_000_001C_01C2C6EE.8CB54040 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I have made two 6 sided lamps using = copper foil=20 and black patina on the solder when finished.  I noticed that = one of=20 my lamps has what appears as about 2 dozen light/white (almost like a = water=20 stain) 1/8 inch circles on some of the dark patina joints.  Anyone = know=20 what may have caused this or how I can fix it and prevent it next=20 time?
 
Thanks.
Scott Strain
Arlington, = Texas
------=_NextPart_000_001C_01C2C6EE.8CB54040-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Jan 28 17:48:24 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 28 Jan 2003 17:22:13 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: aol.com!Zeusluvr From: Zeusluvr@aol.com To: Glass@Bungi.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="part1_11b.1d69c220.2b688616_boundary" Subject: Custom Lamp Question Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 20:19:18 EST Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com> Precedence: bulk --part1_11b.1d69c220.2b688616_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit --part1_11b.1d69c220.2b688616_boundary Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Disposition: inline Return-path: From: Zeusluvr@aol.com Full-name: Zeusluvr Message-ID: <1cc.f71d2a.2b66f2e0@aol.com> Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 15:38:56 EST Subject: Custom Lamp To: Glass@Bunji.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part2_11b.1d69c220.2b66f2e0_boundary" X-Mailer: AOL 8.0 for Windows US sub 230 --part2_11b.1d69c220.2b66f2e0_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Everyone. I am hoping that someone out there will be able to help me with a question. I am working on a custom lamp shade that I am having trouble getting together. Because the lamp has ALOT of odd shaped pieces, I am having trouble trying to set it up to tack solder the seams. I have thought about taping the glass together, but because of all the odd shapes, I would almost need to tape EVERYWHERE on the glass, and have nowhere to solder. Can anyone help me with this dilemma. I have also thought about a lamp form, but there are none out there to fit the shape of my lamp. Please help!!!!! Thanks, Susie @ Deep Woods & Glass --part2_11b.1d69c220.2b66f2e0_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Everyone.  I am hoping that someone out there will be able to help me with a question.  I am working on a custom lamp shade that I am having trouble getting together.  Because the lamp has ALOT of odd shaped pieces, I am having trouble trying to set it up to tack solder the seams.  I have thought about taping the glass together, but because of all the odd shapes, I would almost need to tape EVERYWHERE on the glass, and have nowhere to solder.  Can anyone help me with this dilemma.  I have also thought about a lamp form, but there are none out there to fit the shape of my lamp.   Please help!!!!!

Thanks,
Susie @ Deep Woods & Glass
--part2_11b.1d69c220.2b66f2e0_boundary-- --part1_11b.1d69c220.2b688616_boundary-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Jan 28 18:21:19 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 28 Jan 2003 17:57:09 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles From: "Christie A. Wood" To: Bungi Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Disposition: inline Subject: bungi: Winder Cleaning Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 20:52:23 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com> Precedence: bulk Message text written by Robert Myers >I have (almost) completed my first panel. Final cleaning remains. I ha= ve been plugging away at removing some excess Inland Cement using a variety = of tools (a toothpick, a horseshoe nail, my fingernail, Windex and a rag, a = dry rag, etc.) and have removed a LOT. This technique, or lack thereof, = seems to be working pretty well on the smooth surfaces but there remain = "stains" on the rough surface of some gluechip glass. Are there any = suggestions as to how to accomplish this without extreme effort?< Get yourself a nylon bristle brush. Put some whiting on the gluechip gla= ss and scrub with the nylon hard-bristle brush. Works every time. Clean up= around the lead lines with a chopstick sharpened in a pencil sharpener. Christie A. Wood Art Glass Ensembles Denton, TX ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Jan 28 19:04:40 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 28 Jan 2003 18:28:27 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles From: "Christie A. Wood" To: Bungi Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Disposition: inline Subject: bungi: Custom Lamp Question Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 21:20:20 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com> Precedence: bulk Message text written by INTERNET:Zeusluvr@aol.com >Hi Everyone. I am hoping that someone out there will be able to help me= with = a question. I am working on a custom lamp shade that I am having trouble= = getting together. Because the lamp has ALOT of odd shaped pieces, I am = having trouble trying to set it up to tack solder the seams. I have thought = about taping the glass together, but because of all the odd shapes, I wou= ld almost need to tape EVERYWHERE on the glass, and have nowhere to solder. = Can = anyone help me with this dilemma. I have also thought about a lamp form,= but = there are none out there to fit the shape of my lamp. Please help!!!!!<= What arre you building? A panel lampshade, or a formed lampshade? Sound= s like you're attempting to build a formed lampshade without using a form. = If so, this is not going to work. Go ahead and purchase or rent a form which is close to the shape you desire. Otherwise, purchase a block of solid styrofoam and carve out a form. Then pin (yes...use straight pins)= the pieces to the form. No tape required. The straight pins will hold t= he pieces to the form. Tack solder as much as you can, removing pins as you= go. You might want to purchase the Joe Porcelli book "The Lampmaking Handbook" if you are serious about lampshade making. It has a complete chapter on making your own form & pattern. I've made several lampshades.= = Ask any detailed questions you want. Christie A. Wood Art Glass Ensembles Denton, TX ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Jan 29 02:36:34 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 29 Jan 2003 02:01:41 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: juno.com!pkinnetz From: pkinnetz@juno.com To: glass@bungi.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary=--__JNP_000_4424.3c7f.79fc Subject: Bungi: Custom Lamp Question Date: Wed, 29 Jan 2003 04:36:42 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@juno.com> Precedence: bulk This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. ----__JNP_000_4424.3c7f.79fc Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I haven't encountered the problem that you are having so take this with a grain of salt. You mentioned taping them together, how about if you placed those pesky odd pieces together on clear contact paper to hold them until you got the front soldered? Unless the form that you are working on is curved, this might work, since you could drape it slightly as well. If the shape is curved, cutting slits in the paper so that it begins to assume a curved shape might also work. Just a thought, since I haven't tried this. BTW, it would help if you would put Bungi in the subject line, since after writing this I did not know where to send it to. I belong on several glass related lists. Peggy K. "I am working on a custom lamp shade that I am having trouble getting together. Because the lamp has ALOT of odd shaped pieces, I am having trouble trying to set it up to tack solder the seams. I have thought about taping the glass together, but because of all the odd shapes, I would almost need to tape EVERYWHERE on the glass, and have nowhere to solder. " ----__JNP_000_4424.3c7f.79fc Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I haven't encountered the problem that you are having = so take=20 this with a grain of salt.  You mentioned taping them together, how = about=20 if you placed those pesky odd pieces together on clear contact paper to = hold=20 them until you got the front soldered? Unless the form that you are working= on=20 is curved, this might work, since you could drape it slightly as well. = ; If=20 the shape is curved, cutting slits in the paper so that it begins to = assume=20 a curved shape might also work.  Just a thought, since I haven't = tried=20 this.
 
BTW, it would help if you would put Bungi in the = subject=20 line, since after writing this I did not know where to send it to.  I= =20 belong on several glass related lists.
Peggy K. 
 
 
"I am working on a custom lamp shade that I am having = trouble=20 getting together.  Because the lamp has ALOT of odd shaped pieces, I = am=20 having trouble trying to set it up to tack solder the seams.  I have=20 thought about taping the glass together, but because of all the odd shapes,= I=20 would almost need to tape EVERYWHERE on the glass, and have nowhere to=20 solder.  "
----__JNP_000_4424.3c7f.79fc-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Jan 29 06:51:14 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 29 Jan 2003 06:16:28 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: comcast.net!cecnralph From: Cecily & Ralph Wood To: Bungi Glass Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT Subject: Re: Winder Cleaning Date: Wed, 29 Jan 2003 09:08:50 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net> References: <<5.2.0.9.2.20030128115545.022a2450@mail.charter.net>> Organization: Grendel Studio Precedence: bulk Christie has solved your problem, but I just wanted to add that dental tools are a great thing to have for getting at small odd little spots. Hie yourself to almost any flea market of any size, or to a computer fair, and somebody is sure to be selling them. - Cec Robert Myers robert-at-s-cars.org |Bungier/1.0-Allow| wrote: > Hi Y'all, > > More newbie questions: > > I have (almost) completed my first panel. Final cleaning remains. I > have been plugging away at removing some excess Inland Cement using a > variety of tools (a toothpick, a horseshoe nail, my fingernail, Windex > and a rag, a dry rag, etc.) and have removed a LOT. This technique, > or lack thereof, seems to be working pretty well on the smooth > surfaces but there remain "stains" on the rough surface of some > gluechip glass. Are there any suggestions as to how to accomplish > this without extreme effort? > > I haven't yet tried solvents such as alcohol or acetone or methyl > ethyl ketone (fingernail polish removers) but these seem likely to be > the next step for me unless someone has something brilliant for me to try. > > It's not that I'm unwilling to expend effort but why reinvent wheels > if there is something simple. > > TIA, > > > Bob > ***** > Robert L. Myers 304-574-2372 > Rt. 4, Box 57, Fayetteville, WV 25840 USA WV tag Q SHIP > '95 urS6 Cashmere Grey - der Wunderwagen ICQ 22170244 > http://www.cob-net.org/church/pvcob.htm > ***** > > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > -- ********************************************************************* * Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood and/or Ralph Bernard Wood * Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy) ********************************************************************* ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Jan 29 07:12:27 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 29 Jan 2003 06:41:56 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: comcast.net!cecnralph From: Cecily & Ralph Wood To: Bungi Glass Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT Subject: Re: Custom Lamp Question Date: Wed, 29 Jan 2003 09:22:52 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>> Organization: Grendel Studio Precedence: bulk You can buy some black plastic foam shapes that are specifically meant for holding glass at various angles. A set is not very expensive and is reusable. They are also helpful when making boxes, etc. There are a number of shades for which there are no forms, and these foam things are designed to work with them. There is - or used to be - a yellow plastic thingy that has provision for various angles. This is good for boxes etc. but not for larger things like big shades. As Christie pointed out, use ordinary straight sewing pins with the foam. For the forms, many of them expect you to use bee's wax, but I think I've also read about using double stick tape. With the yellow thingy, the glass just is cradled in it. - Cec Zeusluvr-at-aol.com |Bungier/1.0-Allow| wrote: > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > Subject: > Custom Lamp > From: > Zeusluvr@aol.com > Date: > Mon, 27 Jan 2003 15:38:56 EST > To: > Glass@Bunji.com > > > Hi Everyone. I am hoping that someone out there will be able to help > me with a question. I am working on a custom lamp shade that I am > having trouble getting together. Because the lamp has ALOT of odd > shaped pieces, I am having trouble trying to set it up to tack solder > the seams. I have thought about taping the glass together, but > because of all the odd shapes, I would almost need to tape EVERYWHERE > on the glass, and have nowhere to solder. Can anyone help me with > this dilemma. I have also thought about a lamp form, but there are > none out there to fit the shape of my lamp. Please help!!!!! > > Thanks, > Susie @ Deep Woods & Glass -- ********************************************************************* * Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood and/or Ralph Bernard Wood * Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy) ********************************************************************* ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Jan 29 07:26:27 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 29 Jan 2003 06:45:01 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: comcast.net!cecnralph From: Cecily & Ralph Wood To: Bungi Glass Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT Subject: Re: patina solder discolorization Date: Wed, 29 Jan 2003 09:16:21 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@netzero.net>> Organization: Grendel Studio Precedence: bulk What you have is the dreaded whitish oxidation, which probably results in not having all the flux cleaned off. Take a Q-tip and rub those areas with flux/patina remover. Then WASH and RINSE and reapply the patina in those areas. You then might want to protect the patina by waxing the glass and metal with liquid (spray) car polish, or use Chem-o-Pro (only on the metal) which is specifically meant for the metal in stained glass. - Cec strainsa strainsa-at-netzero.net |Bungier/1.0-Allow| wrote: > I have made two 6 sided lamps using copper foil and black patina on > the solder when finished. I noticed that one of my lamps has what > appears as about 2 dozen light/white (almost like a water stain) 1/8 > inch circles on some of the dark patina joints. Anyone know what may > have caused this or how I can fix it and prevent it next time? > > Thanks. > Scott Strain > Arlington, Texas -- ********************************************************************* * Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood and/or Ralph Bernard Wood * Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy) ********************************************************************* ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Jan 29 11:09:43 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 29 Jan 2003 10:46:02 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: reedbusiness.com!antigen_binbosexc001 From: ANTIGEN_BINBOSEXC001 To: "'glass@bungi.com'" Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain Subject: Antigen found VIRUS= HTML.MimeExploit.Klez (CA(Vet)) virus Date: Wed, 29 Jan 2003 13:39:45 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@reedbusiness.com> Precedence: bulk Antigen for Exchange found Unknown infected with VIRUS= HTML.MimeExploit.Klez (CA(Vet)) worm. The message is currently Purged. The message, "Welcome to my hometown", was sent from glass and was discovered in IMC Queues\Inbound located at Reed_Elsevier/BIN-BOSTON/BINBOSEXC001. ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Jan 30 06:30:44 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 30 Jan 2003 05:56:57 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles From: "Christie A. Wood" To: Bungi Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Disposition: inline Subject: re: bungi: Winder Cleaning Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 08:54:37 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com> Precedence: bulk Message text written by "Lori J. Mitchell" >Just a heads up, don't use inland cement in the future, choose another brand.< Or better yet, make you own! All you need is boiled linseed oil, turpentine and whiting (with optional colorant). Christie A. Wood Art Glass Ensembles Denton, TX ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Jan 30 09:41:03 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 30 Jan 2003 09:33:40 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles From: "Christie A. Wood" To: Bungi Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Disposition: inline Subject: re: bungi: Winder Cleaning Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 08:54:37 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com> Precedence: bulk Message text written by "Lori J. Mitchell" >Just a heads up, don't use inland cement in the future, choose another brand.< Or better yet, make you own! All you need is boiled linseed oil, turpentine and whiting (with optional colorant). Christie A. Wood Art Glass Ensembles Denton, TX ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ________________________________________________________________________ This=20e-mail=20has=20been=20scanned=20for=20all=20viruses=20by=20Star=20I= nternet.=20The service=20is=20powered=20by=20MessageLabs.=20For=20more=20information=20on= =20a=20proactive anti-virus=20service=20working=20around=20the=20clock,=20around=20the=20gl= obe,=20visit: http://www.star.net.uk ________________________________________________________________________ ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Jan 30 10:41:52 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 30 Jan 2003 10:20:28 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles From: "Christie A. Wood" To: Bungi Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Disposition: inline Subject: re: bungi: Winder Cleaning Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 08:54:37 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com> Precedence: bulk Message text written by "Lori J. Mitchell" >Just a heads up, don't use inland cement in the future, choose another brand.< Or better yet, make you own! All you need is boiled linseed oil, turpentine and whiting (with optional colorant). Christie A. Wood Art Glass Ensembles Denton, TX ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ________________________________________________________________________ This=20e-mail=20has=20been=20scanned=20for=20all=20viruses=20by=20Star=20I= nternet.=20The service=20is=20powered=20by=20MessageLabs.=20For=20more=20information=20on= =20a=20proactive anti-virus=20service=20working=20around=20the=20clock,=20around=20the=20gl= obe,=20visit: http://www.star.net.uk ________________________________________________________________________ ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ________________________________________________________________________ This=20e-mail=20has=20been=20scanned=20for=20all=20viruses=20by=20Star=20I= nternet.=20The service=20is=20powered=20by=20MessageLabs.=20For=20more=20information=20on= =20a=20proactive anti-virus=20service=20working=20around=20the=20clock,=20around=20the=20gl= obe,=20visit: http://www.star.net.uk ________________________________________________________________________ ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Jan 30 12:15:57 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 30 Jan 2003 11:24:18 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles From: "Christie A. Wood" To: Bungi Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Disposition: inline Subject: re: bungi: Winder Cleaning Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 08:54:37 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com> Precedence: bulk Message text written by "Lori J. Mitchell" >Just a heads up, don't use inland cement in the future, choose another brand.< Or better yet, make you own! All you need is boiled linseed oil, turpentine and whiting (with optional colorant). Christie A. Wood Art Glass Ensembles Denton, TX ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ________________________________________________________________________ This=20e-mail=20has=20been=20scanned=20for=20all=20viruses=20by=20Star=20I= nternet.=20The service=20is=20powered=20by=20MessageLabs.=20For=20more=20information=20on= =20a=20proactive anti-virus=20service=20working=20around=20the=20clock,=20around=20the=20gl= obe,=20visit: http://www.star.net.uk ________________________________________________________________________ ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ________________________________________________________________________ This=20e-mail=20has=20been=20scanned=20for=20all=20viruses=20by=20Star=20I= nternet.=20The service=20is=20powered=20by=20MessageLabs.=20For=20more=20information=20on= =20a=20proactive anti-virus=20service=20working=20around=20the=20clock,=20around=20the=20gl= obe,=20visit: http://www.star.net.uk ________________________________________________________________________ ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ________________________________________________________________________ This=20e-mail=20has=20been=20scanned=20for=20all=20viruses=20by=20Star=20I= nternet.=20The service=20is=20powered=20by=20MessageLabs.=20For=20more=20information=20on= =20a=20proactive anti-virus=20service=20working=20around=20the=20clock,=20around=20the=20gl= obe,=20visit: http://www.star.net.uk ________________________________________________________________________ ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Jan 30 12:42:35 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 30 Jan 2003 11:36:13 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: attibi.com!maryloueveland From: "Mary Lou Eveland" To: Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Subject: RE: bungi: Winder Cleaning Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 13:32:04 -0600 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@attibi.com> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com>> Precedence: bulk Could you supply the proportions for each? Thanks, Mary Lou Eveland -----Original Message----- From: Christie A. Wood [mailto:Ensembles@compuserve.com] Sent: Thursday, January 30, 2003 7:55 AM To: Bungi Subject: re: bungi: Winder Cleaning Message text written by "Lori J. Mitchell" >Just a heads up, don't use inland cement in the future, choose another brand.< Or better yet, make you own! All you need is boiled linseed oil, turpentine and whiting (with optional colorant). Christie A. Wood Art Glass Ensembles Denton, TX ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Jan 30 13:30:26 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 30 Jan 2003 13:08:50 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: attibi.com!maryloueveland From: "Mary Lou Eveland" To: Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Subject: RE: bungi: Winder Cleaning Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 13:32:04 -0600 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@attibi.com> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com>>> Precedence: bulk Could you supply the proportions for each? Thanks, Mary Lou Eveland -----Original Message----- From: Christie A. Wood [mailto:Ensembles@compuserve.com] Sent: Thursday, January 30, 2003 7:55 AM To: Bungi Subject: re: bungi: Winder Cleaning Message text written by "Lori J. Mitchell" >Just a heads up, don't use inland cement in the future, choose another brand.< Or better yet, make you own! All you need is boiled linseed oil, turpentine and whiting (with optional colorant). Christie A. Wood Art Glass Ensembles Denton, TX ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ________________________________________________________________________ This e-mail has been scanned for all viruses by Star Internet. The service is powered by MessageLabs. For more information on a proactive anti-virus service working around the clock, around the globe, visit: http://www.star.net.uk ________________________________________________________________________ ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Jan 30 13:49:43 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 30 Jan 2003 13:24:44 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles From: "Christie A. Wood" To: Bungi Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Disposition: inline Subject: re: bungi: Winder Cleaning Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 08:54:37 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com> Precedence: bulk Message text written by "Lori J. Mitchell" >Just a heads up, don't use inland cement in the future, choose another brand.< Or better yet, make you own! All you need is boiled linseed oil, turpentine and whiting (with optional colorant). Christie A. Wood Art Glass Ensembles Denton, TX ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ________________________________________________________________________ This=20e-mail=20has=20been=20scanned=20for=20all=20viruses=20by=20Star=20I= nternet.=20The service=20is=20powered=20by=20MessageLabs.=20For=20more=20information=20on= =20a=20proactive anti-virus=20service=20working=20around=20the=20clock,=20around=20the=20gl= obe,=20visit: http://www.star.net.uk ________________________________________________________________________ ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ________________________________________________________________________ This=20e-mail=20has=20been=20scanned=20for=20all=20viruses=20by=20Star=20I= nternet.=20The service=20is=20powered=20by=20MessageLabs.=20For=20more=20information=20on= =20a=20proactive anti-virus=20service=20working=20around=20the=20clock,=20around=20the=20gl= obe,=20visit: http://www.star.net.uk ________________________________________________________________________ ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ________________________________________________________________________ This=20e-mail=20has=20been=20scanned=20for=20all=20viruses=20by=20Star=20I= nternet.=20The service=20is=20powered=20by=20MessageLabs.=20For=20more=20information=20on= =20a=20proactive anti-virus=20service=20working=20around=20the=20clock,=20around=20the=20gl= obe,=20visit: http://www.star.net.uk ________________________________________________________________________ ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ________________________________________________________________________ This=20e-mail=20has=20been=20scanned=20for=20all=20viruses=20by=20Star=20I= nternet.=20The service=20is=20powered=20by=20MessageLabs.=20For=20more=20information=20on= =20a=20proactive anti-virus=20service=20working=20around=20the=20clock,=20around=20the=20gl= obe,=20visit: http://www.star.net.uk ________________________________________________________________________ ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Jan 30 14:22:03 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 30 Jan 2003 14:10:57 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: attibi.com!maryloueveland From: "Mary Lou Eveland" To: Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Subject: RE: bungi: Winder Cleaning Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 13:32:04 -0600 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@attibi.com> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com>>>> Precedence: bulk Could you supply the proportions for each? Thanks, Mary Lou Eveland -----Original Message----- From: Christie A. Wood [mailto:Ensembles@compuserve.com] Sent: Thursday, January 30, 2003 7:55 AM To: Bungi Subject: re: bungi: Winder Cleaning Message text written by "Lori J. Mitchell" >Just a heads up, don't use inland cement in the future, choose another brand.< Or better yet, make you own! All you need is boiled linseed oil, turpentine and whiting (with optional colorant). Christie A. Wood Art Glass Ensembles Denton, TX ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ________________________________________________________________________ This e-mail has been scanned for all viruses by Star Internet. The service is powered by MessageLabs. For more information on a proactive anti-virus service working around the clock, around the globe, visit: http://www.star.net.uk ________________________________________________________________________ ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ________________________________________________________________________ This e-mail has been scanned for all viruses by Star Internet. The service is powered by MessageLabs. For more information on a proactive anti-virus service working around the clock, around the globe, visit: http://www.star.net.uk ________________________________________________________________________ ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Jan 30 15:43:00 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 30 Jan 2003 14:16:03 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles From: "Christie A. Wood" To: Bungi Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Disposition: inline Subject: re: bungi: Winder Cleaning Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 08:54:37 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com> Precedence: bulk Message text written by "Lori J. Mitchell" >Just a heads up, don't use inland cement in the future, choose another brand.< Or better yet, make you own! All you need is boiled linseed oil, turpentine and whiting (with optional colorant). Christie A. Wood Art Glass Ensembles Denton, TX ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ________________________________________________________________________ This=20e-mail=20has=20been=20scanned=20for=20all=20viruses=20by=20Star=20I= nternet.=20The service=20is=20powered=20by=20MessageLabs.=20For=20more=20information=20on= =20a=20proactive anti-virus=20service=20working=20around=20the=20clock,=20around=20the=20gl= obe,=20visit: http://www.star.net.uk ________________________________________________________________________ ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ________________________________________________________________________ This=20e-mail=20has=20been=20scanned=20for=20all=20viruses=20by=20Star=20I= nternet.=20The service=20is=20powered=20by=20MessageLabs.=20For=20more=20information=20on= =20a=20proactive anti-virus=20service=20working=20around=20the=20clock,=20around=20the=20gl= obe,=20visit: http://www.star.net.uk ________________________________________________________________________ ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ________________________________________________________________________ This=20e-mail=20has=20been=20scanned=20for=20all=20viruses=20by=20Star=20I= nternet.=20The service=20is=20powered=20by=20MessageLabs.=20For=20more=20information=20on= =20a=20proactive anti-virus=20service=20working=20around=20the=20clock,=20around=20the=20gl= obe,=20visit: http://www.star.net.uk ________________________________________________________________________ ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ________________________________________________________________________ This=20e-mail=20has=20been=20scanned=20for=20all=20viruses=20by=20Star=20I= nternet.=20The service=20is=20powered=20by=20MessageLabs.=20For=20more=20information=20on= =20a=20proactive anti-virus=20service=20working=20around=20the=20clock,=20around=20the=20gl= obe,=20visit: http://www.star.net.uk ________________________________________________________________________ ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ________________________________________________________________________ This=20e-mail=20has=20been=20scanned=20for=20all=20viruses=20by=20Star=20I= nternet.=20The service=20is=20powered=20by=20MessageLabs.=20For=20more=20information=20on= =20a=20proactive anti-virus=20service=20working=20around=20the=20clock,=20around=20the=20gl= obe,=20visit: http://www.star.net.uk ________________________________________________________________________ ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Jan 30 15:59:04 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 30 Jan 2003 14:57:35 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: attibi.com!maryloueveland From: "Mary Lou Eveland" To: Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Subject: RE: bungi: Winder Cleaning Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 13:32:04 -0600 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@attibi.com> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com>>>>> Precedence: bulk Could you supply the proportions for each? Thanks, Mary Lou Eveland -----Original Message----- From: Christie A. Wood [mailto:Ensembles@compuserve.com] Sent: Thursday, January 30, 2003 7:55 AM To: Bungi Subject: re: bungi: Winder Cleaning Message text written by "Lori J. Mitchell" >Just a heads up, don't use inland cement in the future, choose another brand.< Or better yet, make you own! All you need is boiled linseed oil, turpentine and whiting (with optional colorant). Christie A. Wood Art Glass Ensembles Denton, TX ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ________________________________________________________________________ This e-mail has been scanned for all viruses by Star Internet. The service is powered by MessageLabs. For more information on a proactive anti-virus service working around the clock, around the globe, visit: http://www.star.net.uk ________________________________________________________________________ ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ________________________________________________________________________ This e-mail has been scanned for all viruses by Star Internet. The service is powered by MessageLabs. For more information on a proactive anti-virus service working around the clock, around the globe, visit: http://www.star.net.uk ________________________________________________________________________ ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ________________________________________________________________________ This e-mail has been scanned for all viruses by Star Internet. The service is powered by MessageLabs. For more information on a proactive anti-virus service working around the clock, around the globe, visit: http://www.star.net.uk ________________________________________________________________________ ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Jan 30 17:11:38 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 30 Jan 2003 16:20:09 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles From: "Christie A. Wood" To: Bungi Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Disposition: inline Subject: re: bungi: Winder Cleaning Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 08:54:37 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com> Precedence: bulk Message text written by "Lori J. Mitchell" >Just a heads up, don't use inland cement in the future, choose another brand.< Or better yet, make you own! All you need is boiled linseed oil, turpentine and whiting (with optional colorant). Christie A. Wood Art Glass Ensembles Denton, TX ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ________________________________________________________________________ This=20e-mail=20has=20been=20scanned=20for=20all=20viruses=20by=20Star=20I= nternet.=20The service=20is=20powered=20by=20MessageLabs.=20For=20more=20information=20on= =20a=20proactive anti-virus=20service=20working=20around=20the=20clock,=20around=20the=20gl= obe,=20visit: http://www.star.net.uk ________________________________________________________________________ ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ________________________________________________________________________ This=20e-mail=20has=20been=20scanned=20for=20all=20viruses=20by=20Star=20I= nternet.=20The service=20is=20powered=20by=20MessageLabs.=20For=20more=20information=20on= =20a=20proactive anti-virus=20service=20working=20around=20the=20clock,=20around=20the=20gl= obe,=20visit: http://www.star.net.uk ________________________________________________________________________ ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ________________________________________________________________________ This=20e-mail=20has=20been=20scanned=20for=20all=20viruses=20by=20Star=20I= nternet.=20The service=20is=20powered=20by=20MessageLabs.=20For=20more=20information=20on= =20a=20proactive anti-virus=20service=20working=20around=20the=20clock,=20around=20the=20gl= obe,=20visit: http://www.star.net.uk ________________________________________________________________________ ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ________________________________________________________________________ This=20e-mail=20has=20been=20scanned=20for=20all=20viruses=20by=20Star=20I= nternet.=20The service=20is=20powered=20by=20MessageLabs.=20For=20more=20information=20on= =20a=20proactive anti-virus=20service=20working=20around=20the=20clock,=20around=20the=20gl= obe,=20visit: http://www.star.net.uk ________________________________________________________________________ ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ________________________________________________________________________ This=20e-mail=20has=20been=20scanned=20for=20all=20viruses=20by=20Star=20I= nternet.=20The service=20is=20powered=20by=20MessageLabs.=20For=20more=20information=20on= =20a=20proactive anti-virus=20service=20working=20around=20the=20clock,=20around=20the=20gl= obe,=20visit: http://www.star.net.uk ________________________________________________________________________ ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ________________________________________________________________________ This=20e-mail=20has=20been=20scanned=20for=20all=20viruses=20by=20Star=20I= nternet.=20The service=20is=20powered=20by=20MessageLabs.=20For=20more=20information=20on= =20a=20proactive anti-virus=20service=20working=20around=20the=20clock,=20around=20the=20gl= obe,=20visit: http://www.star.net.uk ________________________________________________________________________ ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Jan 30 17:11:44 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 30 Jan 2003 16:30:28 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: attibi.com!maryloueveland From: "Mary Lou Eveland" To: Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Subject: RE: bungi: Winder Cleaning Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 13:32:04 -0600 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@attibi.com> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com>>>>>> Precedence: bulk Could you supply the proportions for each? Thanks, Mary Lou Eveland -----Original Message----- From: Christie A. Wood [mailto:Ensembles@compuserve.com] Sent: Thursday, January 30, 2003 7:55 AM To: Bungi Subject: re: bungi: Winder Cleaning Message text written by "Lori J. Mitchell" >Just a heads up, don't use inland cement in the future, choose another brand.< Or better yet, make you own! All you need is boiled linseed oil, turpentine and whiting (with optional colorant). Christie A. Wood Art Glass Ensembles Denton, TX ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ________________________________________________________________________ This e-mail has been scanned for all viruses by Star Internet. The service is powered by MessageLabs. For more information on a proactive anti-virus service working around the clock, around the globe, visit: http://www.star.net.uk ________________________________________________________________________ ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ________________________________________________________________________ This e-mail has been scanned for all viruses by Star Internet. The service is powered by MessageLabs. For more information on a proactive anti-virus service working around the clock, around the globe, visit: http://www.star.net.uk ________________________________________________________________________ ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ________________________________________________________________________ This e-mail has been scanned for all viruses by Star Internet. The service is powered by MessageLabs. For more information on a proactive anti-virus service working around the clock, around the globe, visit: http://www.star.net.uk ________________________________________________________________________ ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ________________________________________________________________________ This e-mail has been scanned for all viruses by Star Internet. The service is powered by MessageLabs. For more information on a proactive anti-virus service working around the clock, around the globe, visit: http://www.star.net.uk ________________________________________________________________________ ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Jan 30 17:12:11 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 30 Jan 2003 16:47:08 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: yahoo.com!texpenguin From: Sherry Greer To: GlassList Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: multiple bungi emails Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 16:44:13 -0800 (PST) Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com> Precedence: bulk Hey there, Bungi is sending 4 or 5 copies of some people's emails. Can anyone out there fix it? It's clogging up my email box! Sherry ===== Sherry Greer Lady Penguinevere Designs texpenguin@tsgreer.com __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Jan 30 18:12:01 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 30 Jan 2003 17:42:36 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: yahoo.com!texpenguin From: Sherry Greer To: GlassList Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: multiple bungi emails Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 16:44:13 -0800 (PST) Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com> Precedence: bulk Hey there, Bungi is sending 4 or 5 copies of some people's emails. Can anyone out there fix it? It's clogging up my email box! Sherry ===== Sherry Greer Lady Penguinevere Designs texpenguin@tsgreer.com __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ________________________________________________________________________ This e-mail has been scanned for all viruses by Star Internet. The service is powered by MessageLabs. For more information on a proactive anti-virus service working around the clock, around the globe, visit: http://www.star.net.uk ________________________________________________________________________ ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Jan 30 18:12:07 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 30 Jan 2003 17:46:33 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles From: "Christie A. Wood" To: Bungi Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Disposition: inline Subject: re: bungi: Winder Cleaning Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 08:54:37 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com> Precedence: bulk Message text written by "Lori J. Mitchell" >Just a heads up, don't use inland cement in the future, choose another brand.< Or better yet, make you own! All you need is boiled linseed oil, turpentine and whiting (with optional colorant). Christie A. Wood Art Glass Ensembles Denton, TX ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ________________________________________________________________________ This=20e-mail=20has=20been=20scanned=20for=20all=20viruses=20by=20Star=20I= nternet.=20The service=20is=20powered=20by=20MessageLabs.=20For=20more=20information=20on= =20a=20proactive anti-virus=20service=20working=20around=20the=20clock,=20around=20the=20gl= obe,=20visit: http://www.star.net.uk ________________________________________________________________________ ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ________________________________________________________________________ This=20e-mail=20has=20been=20scanned=20for=20all=20viruses=20by=20Star=20I= nternet.=20The service=20is=20powered=20by=20MessageLabs.=20For=20more=20information=20on= =20a=20proactive anti-virus=20service=20working=20around=20the=20clock,=20around=20the=20gl= obe,=20visit: http://www.star.net.uk ________________________________________________________________________ ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ________________________________________________________________________ This=20e-mail=20has=20been=20scanned=20for=20all=20viruses=20by=20Star=20I= nternet.=20The service=20is=20powered=20by=20MessageLabs.=20For=20more=20information=20on= =20a=20proactive anti-virus=20service=20working=20around=20the=20clock,=20around=20the=20gl= obe,=20visit: http://www.star.net.uk ________________________________________________________________________ ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ________________________________________________________________________ This=20e-mail=20has=20been=20scanned=20for=20all=20viruses=20by=20Star=20I= nternet.=20The service=20is=20powered=20by=20MessageLabs.=20For=20more=20information=20on= =20a=20proactive anti-virus=20service=20working=20around=20the=20clock,=20around=20the=20gl= obe,=20visit: http://www.star.net.uk ________________________________________________________________________ ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ________________________________________________________________________ This=20e-mail=20has=20been=20scanned=20for=20all=20viruses=20by=20Star=20I= nternet.=20The service=20is=20powered=20by=20MessageLabs.=20For=20more=20information=20on= =20a=20proactive anti-virus=20service=20working=20around=20the=20clock,=20around=20the=20gl= obe,=20visit: http://www.star.net.uk ________________________________________________________________________ ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ________________________________________________________________________ This=20e-mail=20has=20been=20scanned=20for=20all=20viruses=20by=20Star=20I= nternet.=20The service=20is=20powered=20by=20MessageLabs.=20For=20more=20information=20on= =20a=20proactive anti-virus=20service=20working=20around=20the=20clock,=20around=20the=20gl= obe,=20visit: http://www.star.net.uk ________________________________________________________________________ ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ________________________________________________________________________ This=20e-mail=20has=20been=20scanned=20for=20all=20viruses=20by=20Star=20I= nternet.=20The service=20is=20powered=20by=20MessageLabs.=20For=20more=20information=20on= =20a=20proactive anti-virus=20service=20working=20around=20the=20clock,=20around=20the=20gl= obe,=20visit: http://www.star.net.uk ________________________________________________________________________ ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Jan 30 19:12:48 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 30 Jan 2003 18:44:34 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: yahoo.com!texpenguin From: Sherry Greer To: GlassList Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: multiple bungi emails Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 16:44:13 -0800 (PST) Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com> Precedence: bulk Hey there, Bungi is sending 4 or 5 copies of some people's emails. Can anyone out there fix it? It's clogging up my email box! Sherry ===== Sherry Greer Lady Penguinevere Designs texpenguin@tsgreer.com __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ________________________________________________________________________ This e-mail has been scanned for all viruses by Star Internet. The service is powered by MessageLabs. For more information on a proactive anti-virus service working around the clock, around the globe, visit: http://www.star.net.uk ________________________________________________________________________ ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ________________________________________________________________________ This e-mail has been scanned for all viruses by Star Internet. The service is powered by MessageLabs. For more information on a proactive anti-virus service working around the clock, around the globe, visit: http://www.star.net.uk ________________________________________________________________________ ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Jan 30 19:13:05 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 30 Jan 2003 18:46:46 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles From: "Christie A. Wood" To: Bungi Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Disposition: inline Subject: re: bungi: Winder Cleaning Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 08:54:37 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com> Precedence: bulk Message text written by "Lori J. Mitchell" >Just a heads up, don't use inland cement in the future, choose another brand.< Or better yet, make you own! All you need is boiled linseed oil, turpentine and whiting (with optional colorant). Christie A. Wood Art Glass Ensembles Denton, TX ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ________________________________________________________________________ This=20e-mail=20has=20been=20scanned=20for=20all=20viruses=20by=20Star=20I= nternet.=20The service=20is=20powered=20by=20MessageLabs.=20For=20more=20information=20on= =20a=20proactive anti-virus=20service=20working=20around=20the=20clock,=20around=20the=20gl= obe,=20visit: http://www.star.net.uk ________________________________________________________________________ ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ________________________________________________________________________ This=20e-mail=20has=20been=20scanned=20for=20all=20viruses=20by=20Star=20I= nternet.=20The service=20is=20powered=20by=20MessageLabs.=20For=20more=20information=20on= =20a=20proactive anti-virus=20service=20working=20around=20the=20clock,=20around=20the=20gl= obe,=20visit: http://www.star.net.uk ________________________________________________________________________ ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ________________________________________________________________________ This=20e-mail=20has=20been=20scanned=20for=20all=20viruses=20by=20Star=20I= nternet.=20The service=20is=20powered=20by=20MessageLabs.=20For=20more=20information=20on= =20a=20proactive anti-virus=20service=20working=20around=20the=20clock,=20around=20the=20gl= obe,=20visit: http://www.star.net.uk ________________________________________________________________________ ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ________________________________________________________________________ This=20e-mail=20has=20been=20scanned=20for=20all=20viruses=20by=20Star=20I= nternet.=20The service=20is=20powered=20by=20MessageLabs.=20For=20more=20information=20on= =20a=20proactive anti-virus=20service=20working=20around=20the=20clock,=20around=20the=20gl= obe,=20visit: http://www.star.net.uk ________________________________________________________________________ ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ________________________________________________________________________ This=20e-mail=20has=20been=20scanned=20for=20all=20viruses=20by=20Star=20I= nternet.=20The service=20is=20powered=20by=20MessageLabs.=20For=20more=20information=20on= =20a=20proactive anti-virus=20service=20working=20around=20the=20clock,=20around=20the=20gl= obe,=20visit: http://www.star.net.uk ________________________________________________________________________ ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ________________________________________________________________________ This=20e-mail=20has=20been=20scanned=20for=20all=20viruses=20by=20Star=20I= nternet.=20The service=20is=20powered=20by=20MessageLabs.=20For=20more=20information=20on= =20a=20proactive anti-virus=20service=20working=20around=20the=20clock,=20around=20the=20gl= obe,=20visit: http://www.star.net.uk ________________________________________________________________________ ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ________________________________________________________________________ This=20e-mail=20has=20been=20scanned=20for=20all=20viruses=20by=20Star=20I= nternet.=20The service=20is=20powered=20by=20MessageLabs.=20For=20more=20information=20on= =20a=20proactive anti-virus=20service=20working=20around=20the=20clock,=20around=20the=20gl= obe,=20visit: http://www.star.net.uk ________________________________________________________________________ ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ________________________________________________________________________ This=20e-mail=20has=20been=20scanned=20for=20all=20viruses=20by=20Star=20I= nternet.=20The service=20is=20powered=20by=20MessageLabs.=20For=20more=20information=20on= =20a=20proactive anti-virus=20service=20working=20around=20the=20clock,=20around=20the=20gl= obe,=20visit: http://www.star.net.uk ________________________________________________________________________ ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Jan 31 16:41:20 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 31 Jan 2003 16:02:38 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: sandblaze.com!slandon From: "Sherry Landon" To: "'Sherry Greer'" , Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Subject: RE: multiple bungi emails Date: Fri, 31 Jan 2003 18:56:08 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@sandblaze.com> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>> Organization: Sandblaze Systems Inc Precedence: bulk ME TOO. Thanks much for the sanity check, thought it might be just me and a pc virus or something. Sherry L. -----Original Message----- From: Sherry Greer [mailto:texpenguin@yahoo.com] Sent: Thursday, January 30, 2003 7:44 PM To: GlassList Subject: multiple bungi emails Hey there, Bungi is sending 4 or 5 copies of some people's emails. Can anyone out there fix it? It's clogging up my email box! Sherry ===== Sherry Greer Lady Penguinevere Designs texpenguin@tsgreer.com __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Jan 31 16:53:42 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 31 Jan 2003 16:08:19 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: netzero.net!strainsa From: "strainsa" To: Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_001F_01C2C952.ED04A100" Subject: small window using foil Date: Fri, 31 Jan 2003 18:02:32 -0600 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@netzero.net> Precedence: bulk This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_001F_01C2C952.ED04A100 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I have primarily been making lamps and small suncatchers. I was = thinking about making a 2 foot circular window for my daughter and was = wondering if anyone has ever done something of this size using copper = foil. What width foil would be the best? Would I still have to use = cement/grout? Would the window be strong enough using the foil instead = of lead came? Any ideas or hints would be appreciated. My daughter is = a horse lover so I am considering a nice horse head picture. ------=_NextPart_000_001F_01C2C952.ED04A100 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I have primarily been making lamps and = small=20 suncatchers.  I was thinking about making a 2 foot circular window = for my=20 daughter and was wondering if anyone has ever done something of this = size using=20 copper foil.  What width foil would be the best?  Would I = still have=20 to use cement/grout?  Would the window be strong enough using the = foil=20 instead of lead came?  Any ideas or hints would be = appreciated.  My=20 daughter is a horse lover so I am considering a nice horse head=20 picture.
------=_NextPart_000_001F_01C2C952.ED04A100-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Jan 31 22:15:54 2003 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 31 Jan 2003 21:57:02 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: ptdprolog.net!suzi1025 From: suzanne albright To: Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: multipart/alternative; Subject: Re: small window using foil Date: Sat, 01 Feb 2003 00:56:15 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@ptdprolog.net> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@netzero.net>> Precedence: bulk > This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. --MS_Mac_OE_3126905776_973388_MIME_Part Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit Yes, I have done this. Use whatever width of foil works for the thickness of the glass you are using. No grout or cement with copper foil. Yes, the window will be strong enough if you have enough solder lines crossing each other (a horse certainly would) and if you edge it all the way around in either zinc, copper or lead. (1/8" is bendable). Good luck, have fun. Suzanne on 1/31/03 7:02 PM, strainsa at strainsa@netzero.net wrote: I have primarily been making lamps and small suncatchers. I was thinking about making a 2 foot circular window for my daughter and was wondering if anyone has ever done something of this size using copper foil. What width foil would be the best? Would I still have to use cement/grout? Would the window be strong enough using the foil instead of lead came? Any ideas or hints would be appreciated. My daughter is a horse lover so I am considering a nice horse head picture. --MS_Mac_OE_3126905776_973388_MIME_Part Content-type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-transfer-encoding: quoted-printable Re: small window using foil Yes, I have done this.

Use whatever width of foil works for the thickness of the glass you are usi= ng. No grout or cement with copper foil. Yes, the window will be strong enou= gh if you have enough solder lines crossing each other (a horse certainly wo= uld) and if you edge it all the way around in either zinc, copper or lead. (= 1/8" is bendable). Good luck, have fun.

Suzanne

on 1/31/03 7:02 PM, strainsa at strainsa@netzero.net wrote:

I have primarily been making = lamps and small suncatchers.  I was thinking about making a 2 foot circ= ular window for my daughter and was wondering if anyone has ever done someth= ing of this size using copper foil.  What width foil would be the best?=  Would I still have to use cement/grout?  Would the window be str= ong enough using the foil instead of lead came?  Any ideas or hints wou= ld be appreciated.  My daughter is a horse lover so I am considering a = nice horse head picture.


--MS_Mac_OE_3126905776_973388_MIME_Part-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass