From owner-glass Thu Jan  2 08:06:32 2003
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X-Path: sympatico.ca!istvan5
From: "Istvan V" <istvan5@sympatico.ca>
To: "Glass Stained" <glass@bungi.com>
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Subject: HAPPY NEW YEAR
Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2003 10:24:05 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@sympatico.ca>
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Hi,    Just wanted to know where everyone is.   Maybe you are all =
exhausted after working so hard to prepare for Christmas. (like me).   =
Anyway, just taking a breather and will get back to creating next =
Monday.  Valentine's Day is coming and there's lots of nice things to =
make.  =20

             WISHING EVERYONE A HAPPY AND PROSPEROUS NEW YEAR

Sincerely, Karen Kovacs



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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
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<BODY style=3D"COLOR: #000000; FONT-FAMILY: " bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>Hi,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Just wanted to know where =
everyone=20
is.&nbsp;&nbsp; Maybe you are all exhausted after working so hard to =
prepare for=20
Christmas. (like me).&nbsp;&nbsp; Anyway, just taking a breather and =
will get=20
back to creating next Monday.&nbsp; Valentine's Day is coming and =
there's lots=20
of nice things to make.&nbsp;&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT=20
face=3DArial>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=
&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
WISHING EVERYONE A HAPPY AND PROSPEROUS NEW YEAR</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>Sincerely, Karen Kovacs</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-glass Thu Jan  2 10:12:48 2003
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	for rglass-42; Thu, 2 Jan 2003 09:47:45 -0800 (PST)
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X-Path: yahoo.com!the1glassman
From: S Clayman <the1glassman@yahoo.com>
To: Steve Mariani <smariani@attbi.com>, glass@bungi.com
Mime-Version: 1.0
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Subject: Re: Band Saws
Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2003 09:41:53 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@attbi.com>>
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Steve,
  Sorry it has taken a while for me to reply but I
have been out of town for the month of December.
  I have the Taurus and I like it. I also use the
Taurus at work. When I first started to use the saw I
had questions about it and the manufacture was very
helpful and sent an extra blad and some info. 
  The problem with the Taurus is that if you put too
much pressure or do not have clean water it will cause
problems. So, follow instructions.. do not puch the
glass hard against the blade, let the blade do the
cutting. Make sure you use all sides of the blade. In
the new models there is a little yellow piece that
fits into the hole where the blade goes down. If you
start making the hole in that larger then you are
pushing on the blade.

Stuart



Just remember with any glass and saw..... score/break,
then grind, the saw... if you can't score and break it
then think about grinding it.. then if grinding does
not work, then use the saw.
--- Steve Mariani <smariani@attbi.com> wrote:
> I have been looking at 3 band saws and was wondering
> if any of you have used
> either of them and have an opinion on them.
> I like the Gemini Taurus II.2, The Diamond Laser
> 3000XL & Gryphon Wire Saw. 
> Not sure what to do at this point.
> I would appreciate any advice.
> 
> Thanks
> Steve
> 


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From owner-glass Sat Jan  4 08:18:20 2003
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	for rglass-42; Sat, 4 Jan 2003 07:59:13 -0800 (PST)
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X-Path: wireworld.com!sales
From: "Wire Links" <sales@wireworld.com>
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Subject: Looking For Wire Hangers?
Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2003 10:58:23 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@wireworld.com>
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Dear Sir/Madame

We are Wire Links Internet see http://www.wirelinks.com

Your e-mail address appears on a procurement list for wire hangers.

If this information is incorrect or if you have a new address please let us
know as we are in the process of up dating our database of vendors.

Please take a look at our web page and let us know if we can be of some use
to you.  Wire links has been designed to provide an accurate list of
suppliers, distributors or manufactures of wire and cable.

Thanks for your cooperation

Best regards
Wire Links
Paul Douwes

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From owner-glass Sat Jan  4 09:10:20 2003
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Subject: Looking For Wire Hangers?
Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2003 10:58:23 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@wireworld.com>
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Dear Sir/Madame

We are Wire Links Internet see http://www.wirelinks.com

Your e-mail address appears on a procurement list for wire hangers.

If this information is incorrect or if you have a new address please let us
know as we are in the process of up dating our database of vendors.

Please take a look at our web page and let us know if we can be of some use
to you.  Wire links has been designed to provide an accurate list of
suppliers, distributors or manufactures of wire and cable.

Thanks for your cooperation

Best regards
Wire Links
Paul Douwes

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From owner-glass Sun Jan  5 12:24:00 2003
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Subject: ** One Million FREE Visitors ** 
Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2003 14:54:02 -0500
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Finding it tough to make money on the Internet?
Want to know some well guarded secrets that will 
essentially make all the difference between not 
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Hurry! Download it to your computer before the page 
comes down.











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From owner-glass Sun Jan  5 19:13:41 2003
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From: MAKEBA MAXWEL <makebamaxwe@iname.com>
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Subject: RESPONSE PLEASE
Date: Mon, 06 Jan 2003 02:39:22 +0100
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From: Makeba Maxwel.
Subject: URGENT ASSISTANCE






 STRICTLY CONFIDENTIAL & URGENT.

I am Mr.Makeba Maxwel a native of Cape Town in South Africa and I am an 
Executive Accountant with the South Africa MINISTRY OF MINERAL RESOURCES 
AND ENERGY.

First and foremost, I apologize for using this medium to reach you for a 
transaction/business of this magnitude, but this is due to confidence
and prompt access associated with this medium.

I have decided to seek a confidential co-operation with you in the 
execution of the deal described Here under for the benefit of all parties 
and hope you will keep it as a top secret because of the nature of this 
transaction.

Within the Department of Mining & Natural Resources where I work as an 
Executive Accountant and with the cooperation of four other top officials,
we have in our possession as overdue payment bills totaling thirty five 
Million, Five Hundred Thousand U. S. Dollars ($35,500,000.) which we want 
to transfer abroad with the assistance and cooperation of a foreign 
company/individual to receive the said fund on our behalf or a reliable 
foreign non-company account to receive such funds. we are handicapped in the =

circumstance, as the South Africa Civil Service Code of Conduct does not =
allow 
us to operate offshore account hence your importance in the whole =
transaction.

This amount $35.5m represents the balance of the total contract value 
executed on behalf of my Department by a foreign contracting firm, which we 
the officials over-invoiced deliberately. Though the actual contract cost 
have been paid to the original contractor, leaving the balance in the Tune 
of the said amount which we have in principle, gotten approval to remit by 
Key tested Telegraphic Transfer (K.T.T) to any foreign bank account you 
will provide by filing in an application through the Justice Ministry here 
in South Africa for the transfer of rights and privileges of the former 
contractor to you.

I have the authority of my partners involved to propose that should you be 
willing to assist us in the transaction, your share of the sum will be 25% 
of the $35.5 million, 70% for us and 5% for taxation and miscellaneous 
expenses. The business itself is 100% safe, on your part provided you treat 
it with utmost secrecy and confidentiality. Also your area of specialization =

is not a hindrance to the successful execution of this transaction.
 
I have reposed my confidence in you and hope that you will not disappoint me. =

Endeavour to communicate back to me with the above E-mail Address indicating =

to your interest or not to enable us look for another foriegn partner that =
will 
be willing to be a part of this deal.

I want to assure you that my partners and myself are in a position to make =
the 
payment of this claim possible provided you can give us strong 
assurances that our share will be secured. Do treat this matter very =
confidentially 
as we will not comprehend with any form of exposures as we are still in =
active 
Government Service. We await your prompt response as time is of the essence.

Yours faithfully,

MR. Makeba Maxwel.

  
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From owner-glass Sun Jan  5 19:45:09 2003
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X-Path: cmecsz.com!fortune
From: Caroline Chen <fortune@cmecsz.com>
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Subject: WALL REPAIR TAPE
Date: Mon, 06 Jan 2003 11:28:40 +0800
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Dear Manager

Happy New Year !!!!!!!  
 
If this e-mail disturbs you , please forgive us!!!. 
 
It may interest you to learn that our company, CMEC Suzhou Co., Inc. is =
possibly the laregest FIBREGLASS WALL REPAIR TAPE  exporter from China.  Our =
product can be found in the U.S.A., all European countries, as well as other =
countries around the world.  Our product quality is excellent, and because of =
volume, we are able to offer all of our products at very competitive prices.
 
With advanced technology and manufacturing equipment, strict quality control =
throughout the manufacturing process, and an attention to our customers =
needs, we can supply you with various kinds of construction tools and =
equipment.  Our products sell well all over the world.  Our exporting =
experience allows us to properly prepare your shipment for safe secure =
delivery and properly filled out paper work to allow your purchases to travel =
through the customs process with few if any holdups.  We don't say this =
lightly as we ship millions of Dollars of all kinds of products to our =
customers around the world.  
 
If you are looking for a supplier in China, please consider joining with us.  =
The potential is unlimited.  Our product list is as follows:
Construction Tools & Hardware
Paint & Painting Accessories
Material Handling Equipment
Special Purpose Vehicles 
Diamond Cutting Tools
Waterproof Materials
Construction Meshing
Job Safety Products
Pallet Racking
Scaffolding.
 
Please go to our web site: =
http://www.materialfair.com/web-ia/web/products.htm  ( Products /Construction =
Meshing / Fiberglass Mesh )
to view those products that interest you.
 
Caroline Chen ( Manager )
 
Web for construction materials & tools: http://www.materialfair.com 
 
Web for diamond cutting tools: http://www.toolfair.com 
 
E-mail: info@materialfair.com   &  info@toolfair.com 

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From owner-glass Thu Jan  9 09:46:18 2003
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	for rglass-42; Thu, 9 Jan 2003 09:38:33 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28)
X-Path: bellsouth.net!Mwwermer
From: Matt-View Point Mobility <Mwwermer@bellsouth.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="d5354066-5b47-4258-865f-483dafdec08a"
Subject: Great Web Site & Resource Links!
Date: Thu, 09 Jan 2003 11:30:47 -0600
Message-ID: <m18WgVz-001fEVC@rdaver.bungi.com>
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You Have A Great Site With Helpful Information, Resources & Links! I would =
like to suggest a link for your site of a product that many visitors to your =
site may have an interest in. 
http://www.viewpointmobility.com is for our company named View Point Mobility =
and we manufacture the "VISION" rear entrance lowered floor wheelchair =
minivan conversion.
 
Take a look at the site and I think you will agree that the visitors to your =
site may find the information very useful. 
 
Thank you.
Matt Wermer 
(C-4 Quad)
View Point Mobility,L.L.C.
 
See Our " VISION VEHICLES " At:
http://www.viewpointmobility.com
The VISION Paratransit:
The 2002 Ford Windstar VISION:
The 2003 Chrysler VISION:
The 2002-2003 Chevrolet Venture:
The 2003 Buick Rendezvous 4x4 SUV:
 
VIEW POINT MOBILITY, L.L.C.
1815 PALMER ST.
KALAMAZOO, MI 49001
877-368-6022
info@viewpointmobility.com
   
--d5354066-5b47-4258-865f-483dafdec08a--

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From owner-glass Thu Jan  9 14:28:17 2003
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	for rglass-42; Thu, 9 Jan 2003 14:10:34 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28)
X-Path: WALLING-BERG.COM!NZB
From: "Berg, Nancy Zalusky" <NZB@WALLING-BERG.COM>
To: "Bob D." <bobfuses@cox.net>,
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Subject: RE: Glasscraftexpo 2003
Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2003 16:01:55 -0600
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I have just signed up to attend the glass craft expo - any advice?

	-----Original Message-----
	From: Bob D. [mailto:bobfuses@cox.net]=20
	Sent: Wednesday, December 04, 2002 10:27 AM
	To: bungi list
	Subject: Glasscraftexpo 2003
=09
=09
	Try this link,
	=20
	http://www.glasscraftexpo.com/
	=20
	Bob in 92026


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<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dus-ascii">
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<DIV><SPAN class=3D042285921-09012003><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff =
size=3D2>I have=20
just signed up to attend the glass craft expo - any =
advice?</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr style=3D"MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV class=3DOutlookMessageHeader lang=3Den-us dir=3Dltr =
align=3Dleft><FONT=20
  face=3DTahoma size=3D2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B> Bob =
D.=20
  [mailto:bobfuses@cox.net] <BR><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, December 04, =
2002 10:27=20
  AM<BR><B>To:</B> bungi list<BR><B>Subject:</B> Glasscraftexpo=20
  2003<BR><BR></FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Try this link,</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><A=20
  =
href=3D"http://www.glasscraftexpo.com/">http://www.glasscraftexpo.com/</A=
></FONT></DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Bob in=20
92026</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
=00
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From owner-glass Fri Jan 10 05:21:21 2003
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	for rglass-42; Fri, 10 Jan 2003 04:49:32 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28)
X-Path: edirectquotes.com!Margaret
From: "margaret" <Margaret@edirectquotes.com>
To: "Glass" <glass@bungi.com>
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;  boundary="----_NextPart_8066897949"
Subject: Maximize Your Trade Show Investment...
Date: Fri, 10 Jan 2003 04:43:21 -0800
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Maximize Your Trade Show Investment 
Exhibiting at a trade show can exhaust your budget, time and energy.  Stop concentrating on driving traffic to your booth, and start focusing on driving qualified traffic to your booth!  Effective pre-show planning and preparation can help you direct the prospects you want to your exhibit. 
Let Adventures in Advertising help you develop a strategy to do just that!  
MicroMints TinColored Frosted Soft-Loop
Shopping Bag

Click on the images for more detail

Determine your objectives, and develop a theme.  Why are you exhibiting? Are you introducing a new product or service?  Are you creating brand awareness?  
Determine your target market.  Which companies and individuals do you want to visit your booth?  Select current customers and qualified prospects.
Prepare a pre-show mailing piece with a theme that reflects your objectives and enhances the design of the booth.  Utilize a promotional product to tie in your theme and create impact.  Be sure to add intrigue to entice your prospect to visit your booth.  You may choose to send a card, or a key that the individual must _turn-in_ at the booth to retrieve a prize.
Train booth attendants to look for attendees holding your invitation. Be sure to have another type of giveaway for the other attendees passing by, who are interested in your company.  Don_t exclude anyone from your booth, but ensure that your targeted guests receive the red carpet treatment.
Perform post-show follow-up.  Send a themed mailing to those invited guests who stopped by the booth to thank them.  A perfect way to break through the after-show clutter! 
Port Authority Men's Jersey Knit ShirtBean Bag Animal

Click on the images for more detail

Let us help you show off at your next exhibit!  Contact us today for the latest in impact mailers, staff attire and giveaways!
Information on Marketing is being sent to you as part of a free Business Development Service. 
Please distribute this information freely; however, we ask that you not change its contents. 
For more information on Direct Services Click here
To Continue to Subscribe: To be included in future offers Click here  go to opt-in and select your interest.  
To Unsubscribe: To unsubscribe, please Click here to send an eMail Confirmation with "unsubscribe or remove" as the subject. 


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    <TD height=3D10 width=3D10><IMG border=3D0 height=3D10 
      src=3D"http://www.edirectquotes.com/jim/tradeshows/corner.gif" width=3D10></TD>
    <TD width=3D526><IMG border=3D0 
      src=3D"http://www.edirectquotes.com/jim/tradeshows/top.jpg" 
      style=3D"HEIGHT: 10px; WIDTH: 580px"></TD>
    <TD width=3D18><IMG border=3D0 height=3D10 
      src=3D"http://www.edirectquotes.com/jim/tradeshows/whitecorner.gif" 
    width=3D10></TD></TR>
  <TR>
    <TD height=3D"100%" vAlign=3Dtop width=3D10><IMG border=3D0 id=3DIMG6 
      src=3D"http://www.edirectquotes.com/jim/tradeshows/left.jpg" 
      style=3D"HEIGHT: 1546%; WIDTH: 10px"></TD>
    <TD align=3Dleft height=3D529 vAlign=3Dtop width=3D526>
      <P align=3Dleft><IMG height=3D180 id=3DIMG1 
      src=3D"http://www.edirectquotes.com/jim/tradeshows/Promoideas.gif" 
      width=3D540></P>
      <P><SPAN 
      style=3D"FONT-FAMILY: Arial; FONT-SIZE: 16pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA"><SPAN 
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      <BLOCKQUOTE>
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              <P><SPAN 
              style=3D"FONT-FAMILY: Arial; FONT-SIZE: 16pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA"><SPAN 
              style=3D"FONT-FAMILY: Arial; FONT-SIZE: 12pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA"><FONT 
              size=3D4><SPAN style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: 10px; FONT-FAMILY: Arial"><SPAN 
              style=3D"FONT-FAMILY: 'Times New Roman'; FONT-SIZE: 16pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA">Maximize 
              Your</SPAN><SPAN 
              style=3D"FONT-FAMILY: 'Times New Roman'; FONT-SIZE: 12pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA"> 
              </SPAN><B style=3D"mso-bidi-font-weight: normal"><SPAN 
              style=3D"FONT-FAMILY: 'Times New Roman'; FONT-SIZE: 22pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA">Trade 
              Show</SPAN></B><SPAN 
              style=3D"FONT-FAMILY: 'Times New Roman'; FONT-SIZE: 12pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA"> 
              </SPAN><SPAN 
              style=3D"FONT-FAMILY: 'Times New Roman'; FONT-SIZE: 16pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA">Investment</SPAN> 
              </SPAN></FONT></SPAN></SPAN></P>
              <P><SPAN 
              style=3D"FONT-FAMILY: Arial; FONT-SIZE: 16pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA"><SPAN 
              style=3D"FONT-FAMILY: Arial; FONT-SIZE: 12pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA"><FONT 
              size=3D4><SPAN style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: 10px; FONT-FAMILY: Arial"><SPAN 
              style=3D"FONT-FAMILY: Arial; FONT-SIZE: 10pt; mso-fareast-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA">Exhibiting 
              at a trade show can exhaust your budget, time and energy.<SPAN 
              style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </SPAN>Stop concentrating on 
              driving traffic to your booth, and start focusing on driving <B 
              style=3D"mso-bidi-font-weight: normal"><I 
              style=3D"mso-bidi-font-style: normal">qualified</I></B> <B 
              style=3D"mso-bidi-font-weight: normal"><I 
              style=3D"mso-bidi-font-style: normal">traffic</I></B> to your 
              booth!<SPAN style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </SPAN>Effective 
              pre-show planning and preparation can help you direct the 
              prospects you <I style=3D"mso-bidi-font-style: normal">want </I>to 
              your exhibit. </SPAN></SPAN></FONT></SPAN></SPAN></P>
              <P><SPAN 
              style=3D"FONT-FAMILY: Arial; FONT-SIZE: 16pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA"><SPAN 
              style=3D"FONT-FAMILY: Arial; FONT-SIZE: 12pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA"><FONT 
              size=3D4><SPAN style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: 10px; FONT-FAMILY: Arial"><SPAN 
              style=3D"FONT-FAMILY: Arial; FONT-SIZE: 10pt; mso-fareast-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA">Let 
              <STRONG>Adventures in Advertising</STRONG> help you develop a 
              strategy to do just that!<SPAN style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; 
              </SPAN></SPAN></SPAN></FONT></SPAN></SPAN></P><SPAN 
              style=3D"FONT-FAMILY: Arial; FONT-SIZE: 16pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA"><SPAN 
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              style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes"><B 
              style=3D"mso-bidi-font-weight: normal"><SPAN 
              style=3D"FONT-FAMILY: Arial; FONT-SIZE: 16pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA"><SPAN 
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              style=3D"HEIGHT: 245px; WIDTH: 90%" width=3D"90%">
                <TBODY>
                <TR>
                  <TD>
                    <P align=3Dcenter><FONT size=3D2>MicroMints Tin</FONT></P></TD>
                  <TD>
                    <P align=3Dcenter><FONT size=3D2>Colored Frosted 
                    Soft-Loop<BR>Shopping Bag</FONT></P></TD></TR>
                <TR>
                  <TD>
                    <P align=3Dcenter><A 
                    href=3D"http://www.edirectquotes.com/jim/tradeshows/1.htm" 
                    target=3D_blank><IMG border=3D0 height=3D200 id=3DIMG2 
                    src=3D"http://www.edirectquotes.com/jim/tradeshows/1111.jpg" 
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                    href=3D"http://www.edirectquotes.com/jim/tradeshows/2.htm" 
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                    src=3D"http://www.edirectquotes.com/jim/tradeshows/1599.jpg" 
                    style=3D"LEFT: 2px; TOP: 1px" width=3D176></A></P></TD></TR>
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                    <P align=3Dcenter><FONT size=3D2><STRONG>Click on the images for 
                    more detail</STRONG></FONT></P></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
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              style=3D"FONT-FAMILY: Arial; FONT-SIZE: 16pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA"><SPAN 
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              style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes"><B 
              style=3D"mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Determine your objectives, 
              and develop a theme.</B><SPAN style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; 
              </SPAN>Why are you exhibiting? Are you introducing a new product 
              or service?<SPAN style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </SPAN>Are you 
              creating brand awareness?&nbsp;&nbsp;<O:P></O:P></P>
              <P class=3DMsoNormal><B 
              style=3D"mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Determine your target 
              market.</B><SPAN style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </SPAN>Which 
              companies and individuals do you want to visit your booth?<SPAN 
              style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </SPAN>Select current customers 
              and qualified prospects.</P>
              <P class=3DMsoNormal><B style=3D"mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Prepare 
              a pre-show mailing piece</B> with a theme that reflects your 
              objectives and enhances the design of the booth.<SPAN 
              style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </SPAN>Utilize a promotional 
              product to tie in your theme and create impact.<SPAN 
              style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </SPAN>Be sure to add intrigue to 
              entice your prospect to visit your booth.<SPAN 
              style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </SPAN>You may choose to send a 
              card, or a key that the individual must _turn-in_ at the booth to 
              retrieve a prize.</P>
              <P class=3DMsoNormal><B style=3D"mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Train 
              booth attendants</B> to look for attendees holding your 
              invitation. Be sure to have another type of giveaway for the other 
              attendees passing by, who are interested in your company.<SPAN 
              style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </SPAN>Don_t exclude anyone from 
              your booth, but ensure that your targeted guests receive the red 
              carpet treatment.</P>
              <P class=3DMsoNormal><B style=3D"mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Perform 
              post-show follow-up.</B><SPAN style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; 
              </SPAN>Send a themed mailing to those invited guests who stopped 
              by the booth to thank them.<SPAN style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; 
              </SPAN>A perfect way to break through the after-show clutter! </P>
              <TABLE border=3D0 cellPadding=3D1 cellSpacing=3D1 class=3DMsoNormal 
              width=3D"90%">
                <TBODY>
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                  <TD>
                    <P align=3Dcenter><FONT size=3D2>Port Authority Men's Jersey 
                    Knit Shirt</FONT></P></TD>
                  <TD>
                    <P align=3Dcenter><FONT color=3Dblack size=3D2>Bean Bag 
                    Animal</FONT></P></TD></TR>
                <TR>
                  <TD><A 
                    href=3D"http://www.edirectquotes.com/jim/tradeshows/3.htm" 
                    target=3D_blank><IMG border=3D0 height=3D200 id=3DIMG4 
                    src=3D"http://www.edirectquotes.com/jim/tradeshows/2117.jpg" 
                    width=3D176></A></TD>
                  <TD><A 
                    href=3D"http://www.edirectquotes.com/jim/tradeshows/4.htm" 
                    target=3D_blank><IMG border=3D0 height=3D200 id=3DIMG5 
                    src=3D"http://www.edirectquotes.com/jim/tradeshows/87040-MONKEY.jpg" 
                    width=3D176></A></TD></TR>
                <TR>
                  <TD colSpan=3D2>
                    <P align=3Dcenter><FONT size=3D2><STRONG>Click on the images for 
                    more detail</STRONG></FONT></P></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
              <P class=3DMsoNormal>Let us help you <B 
              style=3D"mso-bidi-font-weight: normal"><I 
              style=3D"mso-bidi-font-style: normal">show off</I></B> at your next 
              exhibit!<SPAN style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </SPAN>Contact us 
              today for the latest in impact mailers, staff attire and 
              giveaways!</P></SPAN></SPAN></SPAN></FONT></SPAN></SPAN><FONT 
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              style=3D"FONT-FAMILY: Arial; FONT-SIZE: 12pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA"><FONT 
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From owner-glass Fri Jan 10 14:52:45 2003
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Subject: Re: Here is that sample
Date: Fri, 10 Jan 2003 16:42:22 --0500
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From owner-glass Sat Jan 11 10:37:23 2003
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	id <m18XQDP-0000aWa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Sat, 11 Jan 2003 10:18:39 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28)
X-Path: comcast.net!cecnralph
From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@comcast.net>
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Subject: restoration & renovation
Date: Sat, 11 Jan 2003 13:14:13 -0500
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Organization: Grendel Studio
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I'm glad to tell you that this year's National Trust for Historic 
Preservation is having it's big Restoration and Renovation exhibition 
and conference at the Convention Center in Baltimore, Maryland this 
year, March 19-22.  Conferences, classes, exhibits, demonstrations of 
crafts, etc.  I have NO idea of cost, but the web site will surely tell: 
 www.restorationandrenovation.com. - Cec

-- 
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood 
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************


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From owner-glass Sat Jan 11 13:44:27 2003
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From: Robert Myers <robert@s-cars.org>
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Subject: Newbie questions
Date: Sat, 11 Jan 2003 16:06:41 -0500
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Hi Y'all,

Let me introduce myself before I start asking questions.  My name is Bob 
Myers and live in southern West Virginia.  I am a retired chemistry 
professor and have just started a rather ambitious leaded beveled glass 
project as my very first glass project.  (Yeah.  I know.  Silly.  Start 
small and then do the big project.  Not me.  :-) )  We recently built a new 
home and decided we wanted to have two matching "stained glass" windows 
instead of window shades in the master bathroom.  Things seem (so far) to 
be going fairly well.  Cutting glass to more or less the correct dimensions 
and shapes has not proven to be a problem.  I don't anticipate problems 
with soldering since I have worked with solder for many years, just not in 
this type of application.

Now, my question of the day:  I have several joints which require a fairly 
narrow miter for the lead came.  Two pieces might come together at, say, a 
twenty degree angle.  What tool do I need to make these miter joints meet 
well and look good after soldering?  My lead nippers do not seem to be the 
proper tool for anything much less than a 60 degree miter (two 30 degree cuts).

TIA,



Robert Myers
Rt. 4, Box 57
Fayetteville, WV 25840
USA
304-574-2372 

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From owner-glass Sat Jan 11 17:25:01 2003
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Subject: Re: newbie question
Date: Sat, 11 Jan 2003 18:50:15 -0600
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Hi,
Have you tried a lead knife?  or a razor blade?  What I do is first lay =
the lead along the line of glass, positioning it just where it will lay =
once it's got the glass in the channel, but above the glass and =
overlapping the lead that it will be joined to.  Then I mark it with a =
razor blade, nice and straight, remove it after it's been marked.  For =
an angle that degree, I have my best luck cutting the lead with a razor. =
 Just rock it back and forth with some pressure til it's cut through the =
top part (can't remember that term, sorry!)  then once it's through the =
top, rock it side to side until it cuts through the heart of the came.  =
Once it's down to that bottom part, then rock it back and forth again =
til your'e through that.  Be careful not to let the came tourqe while =
you're cutting it or it will have to be done again.  It is also possible =
to do this with a nippers by just taking tiny bites off the lead, =
trimming it slowly from top to bottom to achieve the degree.  I do have =
a lead knife but it seems that the blade is too thick for me to get =
those nice long points on the lead, it just smashes it so I use the =
razor more than the knife.  Good Luck!! M

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2722.900" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Hi,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Have you tried a lead knife?&nbsp; or a =
razor=20
blade?&nbsp; What I do is first lay the lead along the line of glass,=20
positioning it just where it will lay once it's got the glass in the =
channel,=20
but above the glass and overlapping the lead that it will be joined =
to.&nbsp;=20
Then I mark it with a razor blade, nice and straight, remove it after =
it's been=20
marked.&nbsp; For an angle that degree, I have my best luck cutting the =
lead=20
with a razor.&nbsp; Just rock it back and forth with some pressure til =
it's cut=20
through the top part (can't remember that term, sorry!)&nbsp; then once =
it's=20
through the top, rock it side to side until it cuts through the heart of =
the=20
came.&nbsp; Once it's down to that bottom part, then rock it back and =
forth=20
again til your'e through that.&nbsp; Be careful not to let the came =
tourqe while=20
you're cutting it or it will have to be done again.&nbsp; It is also =
possible to=20
do this with a nippers by just taking tiny bites off the lead, trimming =
it=20
slowly from top to bottom to achieve the degree.&nbsp; I do have a lead =
knife=20
but it seems that the blade is too thick for me to get those nice long =
points on=20
the lead, it just smashes it so I use the razor more than the =
knife.&nbsp; Good=20
Luck!! M</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-glass Sun Jan 12 16:24:30 2003
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Looking for FREE Tools to enhance your Website..?? Bravenet Web Services is the answer..!!

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From owner-glass Mon Jan 13 13:17:29 2003
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X-Path: stratus.com!Charlie.Spitzer
From: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie.Spitzer@stratus.com>
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Subject: RE: Newbie question
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 13:41:31 -0700
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Precedence: bulk

cut out the heart back as long as you want the angle to be, leaving the 2
surfaces. you can then use your nippers to cut the 2 surfaces to the correct
angle. it makes the end of the lead be somewhat less strong, but in an
entire panel, won't make much difference if at all.

regards,
charlie
cave creek, az

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Robert Myers [mailto:robert@s-cars.org]
> Sent: Saturday, January 11, 2003 2:07 PM
> To: glass@bungi.com
> Subject: Newbie questions
> 
> 
> Hi Y'all,
> 
<snip>
> 
> Now, my question of the day:  I have several joints which 
> require a fairly 
> narrow miter for the lead came.  Two pieces might come 
> together at, say, a 
> twenty degree angle.  What tool do I need to make these miter 
> joints meet 
> well and look good after soldering?  My lead nippers do not 
> seem to be the 
> proper tool for anything much less than a 60 degree miter 
> (two 30 degree cuts).
> 
> TIA,
> 
> 
> 
> Robert Myers
> Rt. 4, Box 57
> Fayetteville, WV 25840
> USA
> 304-574-2372 
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From owner-glass Tue Jan 14 07:12:53 2003
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Subject: More Newbie Questions
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 09:48:51 -0500
Message-ID: <5.2.0.9.2.20030114094101.013910a8@mail.charter.net>
Precedence: bulk


Hi Y'all,

Thanks to several very helpful people who provided direction re: mitering 
lead.  The joints are now ready for soldering and will be, I hope, 
completed a few hours after starting that job.

My questions are these:

1.  I have several small voids between the lead and the glass as a result 
of slight cutting irregularities.  How much of a gap can be obscured with 
grout?   If I need to recut and/or adjust some more I need this answer 
before starting soldering.

2.  Do you have any favorite grout formulation for leaded windows?  If so, 
would you mind sharing it?

3.  Do you have suggestions of technique for grouting?

If there is interest, I have pictures.


Bob
*****
  Robert L. Myers   304-574-2372
  Rt. 4, Box 57,  Fayetteville, WV 25840 USA   WV tag Q SHIP
  '95 urS6  Cashmere Grey - der Wunderwagen    ICQ 22170244
  http://www.cob-net.org/church/pvcob.htm
*****

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From owner-glass Tue Jan 14 07:44:13 2003
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Subject: Just learning
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 10:16:53 -0500
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References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@stratus.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Hi, I'm just learning the foil method.  Question is about patina.  I want to
patina the panel in black and also patina the zinc frame.  Do I patina the
frame before or after I solder it too the frame.  I have the right solder
for the zinc.

Thanks for your help....I get alot of help from this list.

CJ

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From owner-glass Tue Jan 14 08:45:41 2003
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Subject: re: More Newbie Questions
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Here's a recipe for making your own mud....

1 cup Plaster of Paris
1 1/2 cup whiting
3/8 cup turpentine
1/2 cup linseed oil
1 tsp black mortar color...(dry kind)

Mix it in an old coffee can with some kind of heavy duty stick, it =
should have be able to be formed in your hand, but when left to sit, =
lose it's shape a bit.  Not too runny though, if it is, add a bit more =
whiting.  If it's too dry, try adding a bit of turp and a bit of linseed =
oil.  This is what we used when I worked at a glass studio.  Now, =
personally, I have never had much luck with this at home.  Mine dries =
and turns to dust, not what you want for a good mud.  I think it's the =
brand of ingredients that are available to me, probably the turpentine, =
not sure.  Got sick of mixing up batches, letting some sit to dry, then =
having them break apart with very little pressure.  Waste of time and =
$$.  If you do get a batch to work out good, when you're done, cover it =
with water, put the plastic cover back on the coffee can and it will =
stay good til your next job.   Application for this mud is very simple =
and fast.  Just use a natural bristle brush, like a scrub brush, to push =
it under the came.  Cover with whiting, let it sit for about an hour or =
so, brush up most of the whiting, (run it through a screeen and save it =
for your next job), brush the panel with another clean natural bristle =
brush to color the lead and solder, pick, vacuum, brush, pick...let it =
sit another 24 hours and then you can start your final cleaning.

I have also used that Miracle Mud, the kind that comes in 2 parts, one =
dry, one liquid so you can just mix up what you need for each job.  It's =
not bad, easy to work with, stinks to high heaven though and seems to be =
very dusty.  Application is as above.  This recipe hardens no matter if =
I cover it with water or not so I'm not too impressed with it's =
"keeping" abilities.  And I'm not real good at judging how much I need =
for each job...yet!! =20

Have to admit though, Inland Cement is my favorite.  If it has settled, =
make sure you stir it good before using it.  A bit stiffer though so I =
can't brush it under the came, but I just "plop" some on the panel, then =
take a rubber spatula and work it under the came.  Again, cover with =
whiting and let it sit.  Just remember when you're all done, add water =
before sealing the container and it won't dry out between jobs.  I'm =
always very pleased with the outcome when I use the Inland brand.  =
Leaves a nice charcoal color on the lead and solder.  If you don't like =
that color, you can always go over your lead lines and solder joints =
with 0000 steel wool to buff them up and keep them silver color, just =
wax the entire panel after you're done to keep it from tarnishing.  The =
steel wool is very messy though and just touching that stuff gives me =
the creeps, like fingernails on a chalkboard!  Can't stand it!! =20

As for how much of an area can be filled with the mud/grout...oh boy, =
that's a tough one.  In my opinion...none.  The glass really needs to be =
under that lead.  Is it possible to "push" (gently!!) the lead towards =
the side where there is a gap?  Use your APT, a wooden stick, something =
that won't scar or bend that lead, something wide enough and gentle =
enough.  If you can get both sides of the glass under the lead, even a =
fraction of an inch, then either tape the lead in place with masking =
tape, or solder while holding the lead in position.  But depending on =
your pattern, that might screw up your lead lines and the pattern will =
be "off", then you might want to recut the piece that is shy of the =
lead.  Alot of work and not what you wanted to hear, sorry!!  I'll be =
interested to see what others have to say about this.  Another option =
you might try is to loosen up an area of the panel near the gap, then =
just gently "jiggle" all the pieces, slighty shifting each one til all =
the gaps are closed.  Don't loosen up too much though and don't jiggle =
too much or you could wind up having to rebuild more than what you =
wanted.  After you close the origional gap, check closely to make sure =
you didn't create another one someplace else.  If these gaps are caused =
by tiny tiny "missing" pieces of glass, say near a sharp angle, then you =
might be able to cover the missing glass up when you start to solder, =
just add a bit more solder or fill in that spot with a tiny piece of =
scrap lead, then solder.  Hard to say without knowing what or where the =
gaps are. =20

No matter where these gaps are, mark the pieces of glass so when you go =
to do the brushing and picking, you can remember where your "problem" =
spots are and go a bit easier on cleaning at those spots.  I just use a =
bit of masking tape to mark the piece, then draw an arrow on that =
pointing to the ''spot".  It really helps to remind me to be careful. =20

One little tip that you may not have thought about.  If you're using a =
heavy textured glass, ie...seedy, even some double glue chips, etc.,  =
before you begin to mud, cover those textured sides with contact paper, =
masking tape, something to keep the mud from entering the tiny seeds or =
into the texture.  Makes cleaning the panel much easier.  I just cover =
the whole piece, usually with masking tape, then take a razor or exacto =
knife and cut around the lead lines so the mud can reach into the came, =
rip off the extra "resist" and mud as usual.  You can save alot of =
cleaning time by masking off those heavy textured glasses before =
mudding. =20

Hope this helps! M


------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C2BBB5.FFCE4CA0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2722.900" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Here's a recipe for making your own=20
mud....</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>1 cup Plaster of Paris</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>1 1/2 cup whiting</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>3/8 cup turpentine</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>1/2 cup linseed oil</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>1 tsp black mortar color...(dry =
kind)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Mix it in an old coffee can with some =
kind of heavy=20
duty stick, it should have be able to be formed in your hand, but when =
left to=20
sit, lose it's shape a bit.&nbsp; Not too runny though, if it is, add a =
bit more=20
whiting.&nbsp; If it's too dry, try adding a bit of turp and a bit of =
linseed=20
oil.&nbsp; This is what we used when I worked at a glass studio.&nbsp; =
Now,=20
personally, I have never had much luck with this at home.&nbsp; Mine =
dries and=20
turns to dust, not what you want for a good mud.&nbsp; I think it's the =
brand of=20
ingredients that are available to me, probably the turpentine, not =
sure.&nbsp;=20
Got sick of mixing up batches, letting some sit to dry, then having them =
break=20
apart with very little pressure.&nbsp; Waste of time and $$.&nbsp; If =
you do get=20
a batch to work out good, when you're done, cover it with water, put the =
plastic=20
cover back on the coffee can and it will stay good til your next=20
job.&nbsp;&nbsp; Application for this mud is very simple and fast.&nbsp; =
Just=20
use a natural bristle brush, like a scrub brush, to push it under the=20
came.&nbsp; Cover with whiting, let it sit for about an hour or so, =
brush up=20
most of the whiting, (run it through a screeen and save it for your next =
job),=20
brush the panel with another clean natural bristle brush to color the =
lead and=20
solder, pick, vacuum, brush, pick...let it sit another 24 hours and then =
you can=20
start your final cleaning.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I have also used that Miracle Mud, the =
kind that=20
comes in 2 parts, one dry, one liquid so you can just mix up what you =
need for=20
each job.&nbsp; It's not bad, easy to work with, stinks to high heaven =
though=20
and seems to be very dusty.&nbsp; Application is as above.&nbsp; This =
recipe=20
hardens no matter if I cover it with water or not so I'm not too =
impressed with=20
it's "keeping" abilities.&nbsp; And I'm not real good at judging how =
much I need=20
for each job...yet!!&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Have to admit though, Inland Cement is =
my=20
favorite.&nbsp; If it has settled, make sure you stir it good before =
using it.=20
&nbsp;A bit stiffer though so I can't brush it under the came, but I =
just "plop"=20
some on the panel, then take a rubber spatula and work it under the =
came.&nbsp;=20
Again, cover with whiting and let it sit.&nbsp; Just remember when =
you're all=20
done, add water before sealing the container and it won't dry out =
between=20
jobs.&nbsp; I'm always very pleased with the outcome when I use the =
Inland=20
brand.&nbsp; Leaves a nice charcoal color on the lead and solder.&nbsp; =
If you=20
don't like that color, you can always go over your lead lines and solder =
joints=20
with 0000 steel wool to buff them up and keep them silver color, just =
wax the=20
entire panel after you're done to keep it from tarnishing.&nbsp; The =
steel wool=20
is very messy though and just touching that stuff gives me the creeps, =
like=20
fingernails on a chalkboard!&nbsp; Can't stand it!!&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>As for how much of an area can be =
filled with the=20
mud/grout...oh boy, that's a tough one.&nbsp; In my =
opinion...none.&nbsp; The=20
glass really needs to be under that lead.&nbsp; Is it possible to "push" =

(gently!!) the lead towards the side where there is a gap?&nbsp; Use =
your APT, a=20
wooden stick, something that won't scar or bend that lead, something =
wide enough=20
and gentle enough.&nbsp; If you can get both sides of the glass under =
the lead,=20
even a fraction of an inch, then either tape the lead in place with =
masking=20
tape, or solder while holding the lead in position.&nbsp; But depending =
on your=20
pattern, that might screw up your lead lines and the pattern will be =
"off", then=20
you might want to recut the piece that is shy of the lead.&nbsp; Alot of =
work=20
and not what you wanted to hear, sorry!!&nbsp; I'll be interested to see =
what=20
others have to say about this.&nbsp; Another option you might try is to =
loosen=20
up an area of the panel near the gap, then just gently "jiggle" all the =
pieces,=20
slighty shifting each one til all the gaps are closed.&nbsp; Don't =
loosen up too=20
much though and don't jiggle too much or you could wind up having to =
rebuild=20
more than what you wanted.&nbsp; After you close the origional gap, =
check=20
closely to make sure you didn't create another one someplace else.&nbsp; =
If=20
these gaps are caused by tiny tiny "missing" pieces of glass, say near a =
sharp=20
angle, then you might be able to cover the missing glass up when you =
start to=20
solder, just add a bit more solder or fill in that spot with a tiny =
piece of=20
scrap lead, then solder.&nbsp; Hard to say without knowing what or where =
the=20
gaps are.&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>No matter where these gaps are, mark =
the pieces of=20
glass so when you go to do the brushing and picking, you can remember =
where your=20
"problem" spots are and go a bit easier on cleaning at those =
spots.&nbsp; I just=20
use a bit of masking tape to mark the piece, then draw an arrow on that =
pointing=20
to the ''spot".&nbsp; It really helps to remind me to be careful.&nbsp;=20
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>One little tip that you may not have =
thought=20
about.&nbsp; If you're using a heavy textured glass, ie...seedy, even =
some=20
double glue chips, etc.,&nbsp; before you begin to mud, cover those =
textured=20
sides with contact paper, masking tape, something to keep the mud from =
entering=20
the tiny seeds or into the texture.&nbsp; Makes cleaning the panel much=20
easier.&nbsp; I just cover the whole piece, usually with masking tape, =
then take=20
a razor or exacto knife and cut around the lead lines so the mud can =
reach into=20
the came, rip off the extra "resist" and mud as usual.&nbsp; You can =
save alot=20
of cleaning&nbsp;time by masking off those heavy textured glasses before =

mudding.&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Hope this helps! M</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C2BBB5.FFCE4CA0--

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From owner-glass Tue Jan 14 09:01:25 2003
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	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28)
X-Path: island.net!seaspray
From: "Synergy Glass" <seaspray@island.net>
To: "Robert Myers" <robert@s-cars.org>, <glass@bungi.com>
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Subject: Re: More Newbie Questions
Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2002 16:24:33 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@island.net>
References: <<5.2.0.9.2.20030114094101.013910a8@mail.charter.net>>
Precedence: bulk

> 1.  I have several small voids between the lead and the glass as a result
> of slight cutting irregularities.  How much of a gap can be obscured with
> grout?   If I need to recut and/or adjust some more I need this answer
> before starting soldering.

Short answer...NONE.  The glass should fit underneath the lead flanges.  If
there are spaces, you will need to recut the glass before soldering.
PUTTY, not grout is what you use to finish the windows.  If you try and fill
voids with PUTTY, it will eventually drop out.  Also, the purpose of putty
is to keep the weather out...if you have a bit fall out later your windows
will leak air and rain!

> 2.  Do you have any favorite grout formulation for leaded windows?  If so,
> would you mind sharing it?

Again, you want to PUTTY the windows, not grout...that is used in mosaics.
Whichever putty recipe you choose, make sure you do not use portland cement
or plaster of paris as these will cause the mixture to set hard and make it
difficult to impossible to do restoration or repairs down the road.   Putty
is a mixture of whiting, linseed oil, turpentine and lamp black, mixed to
the consistency of peanut butter.

> 3.  Do you have suggestions of technique for grouting?

I am sure there are tutorials for this on line, and again you want to PUTTY
your windows, not grout.  Grout is used in mosaics.  If you can't find a
tutorial, get one of the older "how to" instructional books such as Stained
Glass Primer by Mollica.

Good luck.

Carol

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From owner-glass Tue Jan 14 09:17:37 2003
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Subject: re: Just learning
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All patina should be done when the entire piece is finished.  Solder =
everything, then clean it good.  The cleaner everything is, the better =
the patina will color.  Don't let the patina sit on the glass too long =
or it could haze the glass.  Wipe it on, it will color immediatly, then =
wipe it off.  After you've patinaed everything, clean it real good =
again.  If you notice some hazing of the glass due to the patina, there =
is this stuff called The Spot Remover That Really Works, just put a dab =
of that on a q-tip and touch up the glass as needed.  It does "really =
work"!!  If you don't have any of that, maybe try Goof-Off?  Not sure, =
never tried that for haze.  I wax all my foiled items with the Stained =
Glass Finishing Compound, makes the glass just sparkle and gives an =
extra "oomph" to the patinas.  Good luck!! M

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<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>All patina should be done when the =
entire piece is=20
finished.&nbsp; Solder everything, then clean it good.&nbsp; The cleaner =

everything is, the better the patina will color.&nbsp; Don't let the =
patina sit=20
on the glass too long or it could haze the glass.&nbsp; Wipe it on, it =
will=20
color immediatly, then wipe it off.&nbsp; After you've patinaed =
everything,=20
clean it real good again.&nbsp; If you notice some hazing of the glass =
due to=20
the patina, there is this stuff called The Spot Remover That Really =
Works, just=20
put a dab of that on a q-tip and touch up the glass as needed.&nbsp; It =
does=20
"really work"!!&nbsp; If you don't have any of that, maybe try =
Goof-Off?&nbsp;=20
Not sure, never tried that for haze.&nbsp; I wax all my foiled items =
with the=20
Stained Glass Finishing Compound, makes the glass just sparkle and gives =
an=20
extra "oomph" to the patinas.&nbsp; Good luck!! =
M</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-glass Tue Jan 14 10:23:04 2003
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X-Path: stratus.com!Charlie.Spitzer
From: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie.Spitzer@stratus.com>
To: "'MB'" <mbeisner@charter.net>, glass@bungi.com
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Subject: RE: More Newbie Questions
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 11:02:40 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@stratus.com>
Precedence: bulk

the plaster sets up too hard, causing cracks, and making it impossible to do
any restoration in the future. it will stick to the lead and glass too well,
making it impossible to safely take a piece apart. furthermore, i believe it
can etch the glass.

using it is a large disservice to future restorers, unless you don't really
believe that the panels should last for a long time :).

regards,
charlie
cave creek, az

> -----Original Message-----
> From: MB [mailto:mbeisner@charter.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2003 11:06 AM
> To: Spitzer, Charlie; glass@bungi.com
> Subject: Re: More Newbie Questions
> 
> 
> It's interesting to read all the opinions!!  The studio I 
> worked at had been
> using this for over 10 years and they are one of the largest 
> in our area
> with jobs in several of the surrounding states.  They've got 
> a good rep as
> far as their work goes. Just out of curiosity, why not 
> Plaster of paris?  Do
> you have something else you use?
> 
> Thanks! M
> 
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From owner-glass Tue Jan 14 10:40:05 2003
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From: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie.Spitzer@stratus.com>
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Subject: RE: More Newbie Questions
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 10:52:34 -0700
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Precedence: bulk

this recipe should NOT be used. no putty should contain plaster of paris.
furthermore, you have to use boiled linseed oil, or it won't harden for
years, if at all.

regards,
charlie
cave creek, az
-----Original Message-----
From: MB [mailto:mbeisner@charter.net]
Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2003 9:16 AM
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: re: More Newbie Questions


Here's a recipe for making your own mud....

1 cup Plaster of Paris
1 1/2 cup whiting
3/8 cup turpentine
1/2 cup linseed oil
1 tsp black mortar color...(dry kind)

Mix it in an old coffee can with some kind of heavy duty stick, it should
have be able to be formed in your hand, but when left to sit, lose it's
shape a bit.  Not too runny though, if it is, add a bit more whiting.  If
it's too dry, try adding a bit of turp and a bit of linseed oil.  This is
what we used when I worked at a glass studio.  Now, personally, I have never
had much luck with this at home.  Mine dries and turns to dust, not what you
want for a good mud.  I think it's the brand of ingredients that are
available to me, probably the turpentine, not sure.  Got sick of mixing up
batches, letting some sit to dry, then having them break apart with very
little pressure.  Waste of time and $$.  If you do get a batch to work out
good, when you're done, cover it with water, put the plastic cover back on
the coffee can and it will stay good til your next job.   Application for
this mud is very simple and fast.  Just use a natural bristle brush, like a
scrub brush, to push it under the came.  Cover with whiting, let it sit for
about an hour or so, brush up most of the whiting, (run it through a screeen
and save it for your next job), brush the panel with another clean natural
bristle brush to color the lead and solder, pick, vacuum, brush, pick...let
it sit another 24 hours and then you can start your final cleaning.

I have also used that Miracle Mud, the kind that comes in 2 parts, one dry,
one liquid so you can just mix up what you need for each job.  It's not bad,
easy to work with, stinks to high heaven though and seems to be very dusty.
Application is as above.  This recipe hardens no matter if I cover it with
water or not so I'm not too impressed with it's "keeping" abilities.  And
I'm not real good at judging how much I need for each job...yet!!  

Have to admit though, Inland Cement is my favorite.  If it has settled, make
sure you stir it good before using it.  A bit stiffer though so I can't
brush it under the came, but I just "plop" some on the panel, then take a
rubber spatula and work it under the came.  Again, cover with whiting and
let it sit.  Just remember when you're all done, add water before sealing
the container and it won't dry out between jobs.  I'm always very pleased
with the outcome when I use the Inland brand.  Leaves a nice charcoal color
on the lead and solder.  If you don't like that color, you can always go
over your lead lines and solder joints with 0000 steel wool to buff them up
and keep them silver color, just wax the entire panel after you're done to
keep it from tarnishing.  The steel wool is very messy though and just
touching that stuff gives me the creeps, like fingernails on a chalkboard!
Can't stand it!!  

As for how much of an area can be filled with the mud/grout...oh boy, that's
a tough one.  In my opinion...none.  The glass really needs to be under that
lead.  Is it possible to "push" (gently!!) the lead towards the side where
there is a gap?  Use your APT, a wooden stick, something that won't scar or
bend that lead, something wide enough and gentle enough.  If you can get
both sides of the glass under the lead, even a fraction of an inch, then
either tape the lead in place with masking tape, or solder while holding the
lead in position.  But depending on your pattern, that might screw up your
lead lines and the pattern will be "off", then you might want to recut the
piece that is shy of the lead.  Alot of work and not what you wanted to
hear, sorry!!  I'll be interested to see what others have to say about this.
Another option you might try is to loosen up an area of the panel near the
gap, then just gently "jiggle" all the pieces, slighty shifting each one til
all the gaps are closed.  Don't loosen up too much though and don't jiggle
too much or you could wind up having to rebuild more than what you wanted.
After you close the origional gap, check closely to make sure you didn't
create another one someplace else.  If these gaps are caused by tiny tiny
"missing" pieces of glass, say near a sharp angle, then you might be able to
cover the missing glass up when you start to solder, just add a bit more
solder or fill in that spot with a tiny piece of scrap lead, then solder.
Hard to say without knowing what or where the gaps are.  

No matter where these gaps are, mark the pieces of glass so when you go to
do the brushing and picking, you can remember where your "problem" spots are
and go a bit easier on cleaning at those spots.  I just use a bit of masking
tape to mark the piece, then draw an arrow on that pointing to the ''spot".
It really helps to remind me to be careful.  

One little tip that you may not have thought about.  If you're using a heavy
textured glass, ie...seedy, even some double glue chips, etc.,  before you
begin to mud, cover those textured sides with contact paper, masking tape,
something to keep the mud from entering the tiny seeds or into the texture.
Makes cleaning the panel much easier.  I just cover the whole piece, usually
with masking tape, then take a razor or exacto knife and cut around the lead
lines so the mud can reach into the came, rip off the extra "resist" and mud
as usual.  You can save alot of cleaning time by masking off those heavy
textured glasses before mudding.  

Hope this helps! M
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From owner-glass Tue Jan 14 10:51:40 2003
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From: "MB" <mbeisner@charter.net>
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Subject: Re: More Newbie Questions
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 12:06:19 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@charter.net>
References: <<75F036A5970CD311A993009027283DC401FCE639@exphx.az.stratus.com>>
Precedence: bulk

It's interesting to read all the opinions!!  The studio I worked at had been
using this for over 10 years and they are one of the largest in our area
with jobs in several of the surrounding states.  They've got a good rep as
far as their work goes. Just out of curiosity, why not Plaster of paris?  Do
you have something else you use?

Thanks! M

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From owner-glass Tue Jan 14 14:30:02 2003
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X-Path: yahoo.com!texpenguin
From: Sherry Greer <texpenguin@yahoo.com>
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Subject: re:  newbie ?'s
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 14:01:48 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>
Precedence: bulk

Hey just a tip for those 'voids' in your
panel...If it is possible to move the glass a bit
in order to just barely make the edges all the
way around, but gravity causes it to slip back
out of place, you can place 'shim' inside your
u-channel by inserting little snippets of lead
into the u to lay flat against the heart, thus
holding the glass slightly out from the heart. 
This trick saved my first panel!  I also had a
few solder joints that were a little bigger than
necessary that covered tiny gaps as well. 
Usually, if a piece isn't fitting right as your
laying your pattern down, you should stop right
then and grind/recut it before you lay down any
more lead or glass.  It's frustrating but not
nearly as much as tearing it all apart to get to
the offending piece!
Sherry

=====
Sherry Greer
Lady Penguinevere Designs
texpenguin@tsgreer.com

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From owner-glass Tue Jan 14 14:42:20 2003
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X-Path: cornell.edu!bjs10
From: bjs10@cornell.edu
To: CJ <r-cj-c@attbi.com>
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Subject: Re: Just learning
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 17:19:37 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@cornell.edu>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@attbi.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Solder first

On Tue, 14 Jan 2003, CJ wrote:

> Hi, I'm just learning the foil method.  Question is about patina.  I want to
> patina the panel in black and also patina the zinc frame.  Do I patina the
> frame before or after I solder it too the frame.  I have the right solder
> for the zinc.
> 
> Thanks for your help....I get alot of help from this list.
> 
> CJ
> 
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From owner-glass Tue Jan 14 14:59:22 2003
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X-Path: stratus.com!Charlie.Spitzer
From: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie.Spitzer@stratus.com>
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Subject: Re: Just learning
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 15:41:43 -0700
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Precedence: bulk

actually, unless there's a really good reason to use zinc, i'd suggest you
use 1/2" lead instead.

regards,
charlie
cave creek, az

-----Original Message-----
From: bjs10@cornell.edu [mailto:bjs10@cornell.edu]
Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2003 3:20 PM
To: CJ
Subject: Re: Just learning


Solder first

On Tue, 14 Jan 2003, CJ wrote:

> Hi, I'm just learning the foil method.  Question is about patina.  I want
to
> patina the panel in black and also patina the zinc frame.  Do I patina the
> frame before or after I solder it too the frame.  I have the right solder
> for the zinc.
> 
> Thanks for your help....I get alot of help from this list.
> 
> CJ
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> 
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From owner-glass Tue Jan 14 15:22:42 2003
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Stephen Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: MB <mbeisner@charter.net>
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Subject: Re: More Newbie Questions
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 22:52:38 +0000
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Precedence: bulk

In message <1970Jan1.000.0@charter.net>, MB <mbeisner@charter.net>=20
writes
>Here's a recipe for making your own mud....
>=A0
>1 cup Plaster of Paris
NO, NO.NO.  NEVER USE PLASTER OF PARIS!

>1 1/2 cup whiting
Bump up the whiting (chalk) by one cup

>3/8 cup turpentine
>1/2 cup linseed oil
Make sure it is boiled linseed oil (the unboiled takes years to cure)
>1 tsp black mortar color...(dry kind)
Or  black oil paint, or carbon black
>=A0
>Mix it in an old coffee can with some kind of heavy duty stick, it should
>have be able to be formed in your hand, but when left to sit, lose it's sh=
ape
>a bit.=A0 Not too runny though, if it is, add a bit more whiting.=A0 If it=
's too dry,
>try adding a bit of turp and a bit of linseed oil.=A0 This is what we used=
 when I
>worked at a glass studio.=A0 Now, personally, I have never had much luck
>with this at home.=A0 Mine dries and turns to dust, not what you want for a
>good mud.=A0 I think it's the brand of ingredients that are available to m=
e,
>probably the turpentine, not sure.=A0 Got sick of mixing up batches, letti=
ng
>some sit to dry, then having them break apart with very little pressure.=A0
>Waste of time and $$.=A0 If you do get a batch to work out good, when you'=
re
>done, cover it with water, put the plastic cover back on the coffee can and
>it will stay good til your next job.=A0=A0
Solution: since it is so easy to make, make only what is needed for the=20
panel, don't store.
>Application for this mud is very simple
>and fast.=A0 Just use a natural bristle brush, like a scrub brush, to push=
 it
>under the came.=A0 Cover with whiting, let it sit for about an hour or so,=
 brush
>up most of the whiting, (run it through a screeen and save it for your next
>job), brush the panel with another clean natural bristle brush to color the
>lead and solder, pick, vacuum, brush, pick...let it sit another 24 hours a=
nd
>then you can start your final cleaning.
Yup. I agree.
>=A0
>I have also used that Miracle Mud, the kind that comes in 2 parts, one dry,
>one liquid so you can just mix up what you need for each job.=A0 It's not =
bad,
>easy to work with, stinks to high heaven though and seems to be very
>dusty.=A0 Application is as above.=A0 This recipe hardens no matter if I c=
over it
>with water or not so I'm not too impressed with it's "keeping" abilities.=
=A0 And
>I'm not real good at judging how much I need for each job...yet!!=A0
>=A0
>Have to admit though, Inland Cement is my favorite.=A0 If it has settled, =
make
>sure you stir it good before using it. =A0A bit stiffer though so I can't =
brush it
>under the came, but I just "plop" some on the panel, then take a rubber
>spatula and work it under the came.=A0 Again, cover with whiting and let it
>sit.=A0 Just remember when you're all done, add water before sealing the
>container and it won't dry out between jobs.=A0 I'm always very pleased wi=
th
>the outcome when I use the Inland brand.=A0 Leaves a nice charcoal color on
>the lead and solder.=A0 If you don't like that color, you can always go ov=
er
>your lead lines and solder joints with 0000 steel wool to buff them up and
>keep them silver color, just wax the entire panel after you're done to keep
>it from tarnishing.=A0 The steel wool is very messy though and just touchi=
ng
>that stuff gives me the creeps, like fingernails on a chalkboard!=A0 Can't
>stand it!!=A0
>=A0
>As for how much of an area can be filled with the mud/grout...oh boy,
>that's a tough one.=A0 In my opinion...none.=A0 The glass really needs to =
be
>under that lead.=A0
Yes. This is right.  This is why you both cut and lead to the cartoon=20
lines. If the glass does not fit the cartoon, it needs to be altered.=20
If, in leading the whole seems to be moving away from the cartoon lines,=20
even though the glass all seemed correct, your lead came is too long=20
somewhere. Take back all the leading until you get to a point where the=20
leading agrees with the cartoon.  Then work systematically out from=20
there, re-cutting came where it is too long, and re-position the came=20
that you have  taken out in finding the problem.

>Is it possible to "push" (gently!!) the lead towards the side
>where there is a gap?=A0 Use your APT, a wooden stick, something that
>won't scar or bend that lead, something wide enough and gentle enough.=A0
>If you can get both sides of the glass under the lead, even a fraction of =
an
>inch, then either tape the lead in place with masking tape, or solder while
>holding the lead in position.=A0 But depending on your pattern, that might
>screw up your lead lines and the pattern will be "off", then you might want
>to recut the piece that is shy of the lead.=A0 Alot of work and not what y=
ou
>wanted to hear, sorry!!=A0 I'll be interested to see what others have to s=
ay
>about this.=A0 Another option you might try is to loosen up an area of the
>panel near the gap, then just gently "jiggle" all the pieces, slighty shif=
ting
>each one til all the gaps are closed.=A0 Don't loosen up too much though a=
nd
>don't jiggle too much or you could wind up having to rebuild more than
>what you wanted.=A0 After you close the origional gap, check closely to
>make sure you didn't create another one someplace else.=A0 If these gaps
>are caused by tiny tiny "missing" pieces of glass, say near a sharp angle,
>then you might be able to cover the missing glass up when you start to
>solder, just add a bit more solder or fill in that spot with a tiny piece =
of
>scrap lead, then solder.=A0 Hard to say without knowing what or where the
>gaps are.=A0
>=A0
>No matter where these gaps are, mark the pieces of glass so when you go
>to do the brushing and picking, you can remember where your "problem"
>spots are and go a bit easier on cleaning at those spots.=A0 I just use a =
bit of
>masking tape to mark the piece, then draw an arrow on that pointing to the
>''spot".=A0 It really helps to remind me to be careful.=A0
>=A0
>One little tip that you may not have thought about.=A0 If you're using a h=
eavy
>textured glass, ie...seedy, even some double glue chips, etc.,=A0 before y=
ou
>begin to mud, cover those textured sides with contact paper, masking
>tape, something to keep the mud from entering the tiny seeds or into the
>texture.=A0 Makes cleaning the panel much easier.=A0 I just cover the whole
>piece, usually with masking tape, then take a razor or exacto knife and
>cut around the lead lines so the mud can reach into the came, rip off the
>extra "resist" and mud as usual.=A0 You can save alot of cleaning=A0time by
>masking off those heavy textured glasses before mudding.=A0
>=A0
>Hope this helps! M
>=A0
With additional comments by Steve
--=20

Stephen Richard, Verrier
"Glass on Parade"
Glasgow, Scotland
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From owner-glass Tue Jan 14 16:41:24 2003
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From: "Sherry Landon" <slandon@sandblaze.com>
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Subject: RE: Just learning
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 19:15:09 -0500
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Maybe you can answer why my black patina'd zinc came turned out
splotchy?? It didn't seem to "take" very well and just looks OK, to my
eye anyway.
 
Sherry
 
-----Original Message-----
From: MB [mailto:mbeisner@charter.net] 
Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2003 11:22 AM
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: re: Just learning
 
All patina should be done when the entire piece is finished.  Solder
everything, then clean it good.  The cleaner everything is, the better
the patina will color.  Don't let the patina sit on the glass too long
or it could haze the glass.  Wipe it on, it will color immediatly, then
wipe it off.  After you've patinaed everything, clean it real good
again.  If you notice some hazing of the glass due to the patina, there
is this stuff called The Spot Remover That Really Works, just put a dab
of that on a q-tip and touch up the glass as needed.  It does "really
work"!!  If you don't have any of that, maybe try Goof-Off?  Not sure,
never tried that for haze.  I wax all my foiled items with the Stained
Glass Finishing Compound, makes the glass just sparkle and gives an
extra "oomph" to the patinas.  Good luck!! M

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<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 color=3Dnavy face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'>Maybe you can answer why my black =
patina&#8217;d
zinc came turned out splotchy?? It didn&#8217;t seem to =
&#8220;take&#8221; very
well and just looks OK, to my eye anyway.<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 color=3Dnavy face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 color=3Dnavy face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'>Sherry<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 color=3Dnavy face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-left:.5in'><font size=3D2 =
face=3DTahoma><span
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Tahoma'>-----Original =
Message-----<br>
<b><span style=3D'font-weight:bold'>From:</span></b> MB
[mailto:mbeisner@charter.net] <br>
<b><span style=3D'font-weight:bold'>Sent:</span></b> Tuesday, January =
14, 2003
11:22 AM<br>
<b><span style=3D'font-weight:bold'>To:</span></b> glass@bungi.com<br>
<b><span style=3D'font-weight:bold'>Subject:</span></b> re: Just =
learning</span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-left:.5in'><font size=3D3 =
face=3D"Times New Roman"><span
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></font></p>

<div>

<p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-left:.5in'><font size=3D2 =
face=3DArial><span
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Arial'>All patina should be done =
when the
entire piece is finished.&nbsp; Solder everything, then clean it =
good.&nbsp;
The cleaner everything is, the better the patina will color.&nbsp; Don't =
let
the patina sit on the glass too long or it could haze the glass.&nbsp; =
Wipe it
on, it will color immediatly, then wipe it off.&nbsp; After you've =
patinaed
everything, clean it real good again.&nbsp; If you notice some hazing of =
the
glass due to the patina, there is this stuff called The Spot Remover =
That
Really Works, just put a dab of that on a q-tip and touch up the glass =
as
needed.&nbsp; It does &quot;really work&quot;!!&nbsp; If you don't have =
any of
that, maybe try Goof-Off?&nbsp; Not sure, never tried that for =
haze.&nbsp; I
wax all my foiled items with the Stained Glass Finishing Compound, makes =
the
glass just sparkle and gives an extra &quot;oomph&quot; to the =
patinas.&nbsp;
Good luck!! M</span></font><o:p></o:p></p>

</div>

</div>

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From owner-glass Tue Jan 14 20:17:16 2003
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Subject: Plaster of Paris NO NO!!  
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 21:55:07 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@charter.net>
References: <<IIUdngC2SJJ+EwZT@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>>
Precedence: bulk

Thanks for the tip!  Could that be why the stuff I mixed up at home turned
to dust?  I'm surprised that the glass studio didn't know this....makes me
wonder now....  As for the linseed oil, guess I've never seen anything but
boiled linseed oil, hence my omitting the "boiled" part in the recipe.
Sorry for the confusion.
M

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From owner-glass Tue Jan 14 22:24:17 2003
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I recently received some drinking glasses with the Los Angeles Raiders on 
them and would like to know if there is anyway to remove the Los Angeles. It 
is written small and on the back but everyone wants it removed or they 
don't want them. I make candles out of them. Could you please help?
Thank You, Connie

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">I recently received some drinking glasses with the Los Angeles Raiders on them and would like to know if there is anyway to remove the Los Angeles. It is written small and on the back but everyone wants it removed or they don't want them. I make candles out of them. Could you please help?<BR>
Thank You, Connie</FONT></HTML>

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From owner-glass Wed Jan 15 12:32:33 2003
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X-Path: attbi.com!byronw26
From: "Byron Wells" <byronw26@attbi.com>
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Subject: Flat glass info
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 13:41:53 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@attbi.com>
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Hey all...

I'm expanding from my base in stained glass and sandblasting over into =
mirrors and shower doors etc... Any good info sites etc for flat glass =
around??

Please email me as I don't wanna clog up Bungi with off topic stuff..

Thanks in advance!

Byron...
Wells Glassworks
www.wellsglassworks.com


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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Hey all...</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I'm expanding from my base in stained glass and =
sandblasting=20
over into mirrors and shower doors etc... Any good info sites etc for =
flat glass=20
around??</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Please email me as I don't wanna clog up Bungi with =
off topic=20
stuff..</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Thanks in advance!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Byron...<BR>Wells Glassworks</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"http://www.wellsglassworks.com">www.wellsglassworks.com</A></FONT=
></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-glass Wed Jan 15 20:22:37 2003
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From: "Byron Wells" <byronw26@attbi.com>
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Subject: Re: Flat glass info
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 22:03:16 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@attbi.com>
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Hey Charlie...

I guess I wasn't very clear in my post... I already do stained and =
blasted glass.. I am adding mirrors, shower doors etc and was looking =
for flat glass info/sites...


  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Spitzer, Charlie=20
  To: 'Byron Wells'=20
  Sent: Wednesday, January 15, 2003 2:46 PM
  Subject: RE: Flat glass info


  look up norm dobbins, out of new mexico. he's generally recognized as =
one of the best in the country. he does lots of classes, and has a bunch =
of books out.

  regards,
  charlie
  cave creek, az
    -----Original Message-----
    From: Byron Wells [mailto:byronw26@attbi.com]
    Sent: Wednesday, January 15, 2003 12:42 PM
    To: glass@bungi.com
    Subject: Flat glass info


    Hey all...

    I'm expanding from my base in stained glass and sandblasting over =
into mirrors and shower doors etc... Any good info sites etc for flat =
glass around??

    Please email me as I don't wanna clog up Bungi with off topic =
stuff..

    Thanks in advance!

    Byron...
    Wells Glassworks
    www.wellsglassworks.com


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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Hey Charlie...</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I guess I wasn't very clear in my post... I already =
do stained=20
and blasted glass.. I am adding mirrors, shower doors etc and was =
looking for=20
flat glass info/sites...</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A title=3DCharlie.Spitzer@stratus.com=20
  href=3D"mailto:Charlie.Spitzer@stratus.com">Spitzer, Charlie</A> =
</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=3Dbyronw26@attbi.com=20
  href=3D"mailto:byronw26@attbi.com">'Byron Wells'</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, January 15, =
2003 2:46=20
  PM</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> RE: Flat glass =
info</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV>
  <DIV><SPAN class=3D513275320-15012003><FONT face=3DArial =
color=3D#0000ff size=3D2>look=20
  up norm dobbins, out of new mexico. he's generally recognized as one =
of the=20
  best in the country. he does lots of classes, and has a bunch of books =

  out.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
  <DIV><SPAN class=3D513275320-15012003><FONT face=3DArial =
color=3D#0000ff=20
  size=3D2></FONT></SPAN>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><SPAN class=3D513275320-15012003><FONT face=3DArial =
color=3D#0000ff=20
  size=3D2>regards,</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
  <DIV><SPAN class=3D513275320-15012003><FONT face=3DArial =
color=3D#0000ff=20
  size=3D2>charlie</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
  <DIV><SPAN class=3D513275320-15012003><FONT face=3DArial =
color=3D#0000ff size=3D2>cave=20
  creek, az</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
  <BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
  style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px =
solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
    <DIV class=3DOutlookMessageHeader dir=3Dltr align=3Dleft><FONT =
face=3DTahoma=20
    size=3D2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B> Byron Wells=20
    [mailto:byronw26@attbi.com]<BR><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, January 15, =
2003=20
    12:42 PM<BR><B>To:</B> <A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:glass@bungi.com">glass@bungi.com</A><BR><B>Subject:</B> =
Flat=20
    glass info<BR><BR></FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Hey all...</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2>I'm expanding from my base in stained glass and=20
    sandblasting over into mirrors and shower doors etc... Any good info =
sites=20
    etc for flat glass around??</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Please email me as I don't wanna clog up Bungi =
with off=20
    topic stuff..</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Thanks in advance!</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Byron...<BR>Wells Glassworks</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2><A=20
    =
href=3D"http://www.wellsglassworks.com">www.wellsglassworks.com</A></FONT=
></DIV>
    <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-glass Thu Jan 16 14:21:38 2003
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Stephen Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Sherry Greer <texpenguin@yahoo.com>
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Subject: Re: newbie ?'s
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 23:07:45 +0000
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References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>>
Precedence: bulk

It is also possible to use varying sizes of lead came.  In fact varying 
widths add interest to a panel, if used carefully.  They can provide 
emphasis to various elements, and reduce the importance of others.

Steve

In message <1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>, Sherry Greer 
<texpenguin@yahoo.com> writes
>Hey just a tip for those 'voids' in your
>panel...If it is possible to move the glass a bit
>in order to just barely make the edges all the
>way around, but gravity causes it to slip back
>out of place, you can place 'shim' inside your
>u-channel by inserting little snippets of lead
>into the u to lay flat against the heart, thus
>holding the glass slightly out from the heart.
>This trick saved my first panel!  I also had a
>few solder joints that were a little bigger than
>necessary that covered tiny gaps as well.
>Usually, if a piece isn't fitting right as your
>laying your pattern down, you should stop right
>then and grind/recut it before you lay down any
>more lead or glass.  It's frustrating but not
>nearly as much as tearing it all apart to get to
>the offending piece!
>Sherry
>
>=====
>Sherry Greer
>Lady Penguinevere Designs
>texpenguin@tsgreer.com
>
>__________________________________________________
>Do you Yahoo!?
>Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now.
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-- 

Stephen Richard, Verrier
"Glass on Parade"
Glasgow, Scotland
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From owner-glass Thu Jan 16 15:56:51 2003
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Subject: Re: bungi:kaleidoscope parts
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 18:23:42 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>
Precedence: bulk

Hi,

Does anyone know of a source for threaded brass rods, about 1/8 inch in 
diameter  (the lenght does not matter as they can be cut) and threaded brass 
balls?  I could also use some brass "eyelets" that would fit over the rods.I 
am making some kaleidoscopes and the only source I can find is Clarity, who 
sells these pieces as part of a package that includes parts I don't need.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

Carolyn
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From owner-glass Thu Jan 16 21:38:25 2003
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From: Gerry Phibbs <glasscutter@earthlink.net>
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Subject: Re: bungi:kaleidoscope parts
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 21:06:51 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@earthlink.net>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Hi Carolyn,

  As for those brass threaded rods.. you're looking in the wrong place. 
Visit your local independent hardware store.  You're looking for brass
threaded rod.. typically available in thread sizes 4-40 (harder to find,
but really small), 6-32, 8-32, 10-24 & 10-32, 1/4-20 and on up.  For
that 1/8" diameter, I'd suggest trying the 6/32, that's as close to 1/8"
as you're likely to find, but you may be able to work with the slightly
larger 8-32.  In most cases, you can find these brass rods in 12"
lengths, and in some places, you may be lucky enough to find them in 36"
lengths, but those are a bit harder to find.

  The same goes with those threaded "cap nuts".  You can fairly easily
find threaded brass "acorn" style cap nuts, rounded end with a hex shape
on the bottom end.  At a lighting shop, you can probably find some round
balls that are threaded 8-32, as these are commonly used for mounting
light fixtures.  There are also "terminal" nuts, that have a threaded
hole all the way through, with knurling on the outside, generally used
to make electrical connections, but if they work for your application..
they don't know where they are.. and don't much care!  (grin)

  Should your local independent hardware store not carry the right size,
or length of these rods for you, they should be able to special order
them.. they're fairly commonly available in the hardware trade, but they
may not have much of a demand for them at their store.

  Good luck, and..

  Peace  -Gerry
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From owner-glass Fri Jan 17 09:39:40 2003
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X-Path: stratus.com!Charlie.Spitzer
From: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie.Spitzer@stratus.com>
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Subject: FW: bungi:kaleidoscope parts
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 10:12:37 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@stratus.com>
Precedence: bulk

it's not that hard to find brass rod and a die to cut your own threads is
only a few dollars. that might even look better than a rod that is
completely threaded.

regards,
charlie
cave creek, az

-----Original Message-----
From: Gerry Phibbs [mailto:glasscutter@earthlink.net] 
Sent: Thursday, January 16, 2003 2:07 PM
To: CUngv@aol.com; glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: bungi:kaleidoscope parts


Hi Carolyn,

  As for those brass threaded rods.. you're looking in the wrong place. 
Visit your local independent hardware store.  You're looking for brass
threaded rod.. typically available in thread sizes 4-40 (harder to find,
but really small), 6-32, 8-32, 10-24 & 10-32, 1/4-20 and on up.  For
that 1/8" diameter, I'd suggest trying the 6/32, that's as close to 1/8"
as you're likely to find, but you may be able to work with the slightly
larger 8-32.  In most cases, you can find these brass rods in 12"
lengths, and in some places, you may be lucky enough to find them in 36"
lengths, but those are a bit harder to find.

  The same goes with those threaded "cap nuts".  You can fairly easily
find threaded brass "acorn" style cap nuts, rounded end with a hex shape
on the bottom end.  At a lighting shop, you can probably find some round
balls that are threaded 8-32, as these are commonly used for mounting
light fixtures.  There are also "terminal" nuts, that have a threaded
hole all the way through, with knurling on the outside, generally used
to make electrical connections, but if they work for your application..
they don't know where they are.. and don't much care!  (grin)

  Should your local independent hardware store not carry the right size,
or length of these rods for you, they should be able to special order
them.. they're fairly commonly available in the hardware trade, but they
may not have much of a demand for them at their store.

  Good luck, and..

  Peace  -Gerry
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From owner-glass Sat Jan 18 09:45:53 2003
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From: "Susan C.Reitmann" <oddjob@scc.net>
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Subject: Kaleidoscope Oil
Date: Sat, 18 Jan 2003 10:15:14 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@scc.net>
Precedence: bulk

Since we are on the subject of kaleidoscopes, does anyone know what the
oil(?) is that the colored pieces in the wheel are suspended in? Not the
long wand type tubes that have been on the market for some years. The
ones that I saw were the type that are in the kaleidoscope pattern
books. Think it could have been glycerin?
Sue in Mpls.,MN
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From owner-glass Sat Jan 18 10:44:17 2003
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Subject: bungi:  looking for a peacock pattern
Date: Sat, 18 Jan 2003 13:36:39 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>
Precedence: bulk

hey gang, i'm looking for a peacock pattern or picture that will work for a 
sidelight to a front door.  i've seen a few and one in particular that i 
liked but for the life of me i can't seem to locate it again.  does anyone 
have any ideas on sites where i might find this?  i've used google.com but am 
not really coming up with what i want.  is there another good search engine 
or site?  thanks!
jules
ontario
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From owner-glass Sat Jan 18 11:46:09 2003
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X-Path: attbi.com!jerryc34
From: Jerry <jerryc34@attbi.com>
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Subject: Shimmery green glass ???
Date: Sat, 18 Jan 2003 14:03:50 -0500
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> This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand
this format, some or all of this message may not be legible.

--B_3125743445_1565358
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I hope I'm not violating any rules but I scanned up a small sample of this
glass I just cut, do any of you think you could pinpoint what manufacturer
made it? This glass is beautiful and I'd like to see what other colouors
they offer it in.

It is a really nice multi green that looks as if it's got TINY specks of
gold glitter in it.  The smoother side has a texture similar to water glass,
the other side has a rougher texture, not sure what you'd call it.

Do any of you have any idea who might have manufactured this? Any insight
appreciated.

Thanks in advance...

Jerry


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--B_3125743445_1565358--


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From owner-glass Sat Jan 18 13:18:46 2003
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m18a0Bc-0000SWa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Sat, 18 Jan 2003 13:07:28 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28)
X-Path: ptdprolog.net!suzi1025
From: suzanne albright <suzi1025@ptdprolog.net>
To: Jerry <jerryc34@attbi.com>,
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit
Subject: Re: Shimmery green glass ???
Date: Sat, 18 Jan 2003 16:04:21 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@ptdprolog.net>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@attbi.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Jerry,

I'm wondering if it"s Bullseye BU2112. It's the only glass I've seen with
small flecks of shimmering gold in it. I believe it's called aventurine
green. Bullseye makes a variety of exceedingly beautiful glass.

Suzanne

on 1/18/03 2:03 PM, Jerry at jerryc34@attbi.com wrote:

> I hope I'm not violating any rules but I scanned up a small sample of this
> glass I just cut, do any of you think you could pinpoint what manufacturer
> made it? This glass is beautiful and I'd like to see what other colouors
> they offer it in.
> 
> It is a really nice multi green that looks as if it's got TINY specks of
> gold glitter in it.  The smoother side has a texture similar to water glass,
> the other side has a rougher texture, not sure what you'd call it.
> 
> Do any of you have any idea who might have manufactured this? Any insight
> appreciated.
> 
> Thanks in advance...
> 
> Jerry
> 
> 

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From owner-glass Sat Jan 18 14:51:43 2003
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	for rglass-42; Sat, 18 Jan 2003 14:38:13 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28)
X-Path: 1-nil.com!wild58
From: "Bill Friends"<wild58@1-nil.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Subject: About your
Date: Sat, 18 Jan 2003 15:09:54 -0700
Message-ID: <m18a1AA-001fEUC@rdaver.bungi.com>
Precedence: bulk

About your results, and free software

I just finished reading your post on our FFA page 
and I wonder if  you got the results you wanted?

You might want to try some FREE promotional 
software that I have had some great success with.  
Just click on the address below:

http://marketsoft.5er.com

I wish you the very best in all your endeavors.

Have a great week.

Dr. Bill


Go here now!
http://marketsoft.5er.com


To save when you shop  go here
http://shopnow.iwebland.com










|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
This is a time delayed reply based on your ffa posting




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From owner-glass Sat Jan 18 15:05:59 2003
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X-Path: realtyagent.com!c21joe
From: Joe Foster<c21joe@realtyagent.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
Subject: New Jersey (USA) Land of Opportunity
Date: Sat, 18 Jan 2003 14:12:23 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <m18a1CR-001fE7C@rdaver.bungi.com>
Precedence: bulk


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<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:none;
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<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:none;
text-autospace:none'><span class=GramE><b><span style='color:#FF9900'>Candid
Realty Inc</span></b>.*</span></p>

<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:none;
text-autospace:none'>217 Route 130 N.</p>

<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:none;
text-autospace:none'><st1:place><st1:City>Bordentown</st1:City>, <st1:State>NJ</st1:State>
 <st1:PostalCode>08505</st1:PostalCode></st1:place></p>

<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:none;
text-autospace:none'><span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span></p>

<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:none;
text-autospace:none'><span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span></p>

<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:none;
text-autospace:none'>Hi:</p>

<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:none;
text-autospace:none'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p>

<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:none;
text-autospace:none'>My name is <b><span style='color:#FF9900'>Joe Foster</span><span
style='color:blue'> -</span> </b>Broker Associate.<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>   </span>I have been assisting clients, agents,
brokers, and financial organization in <st1:State><st1:place>New Jersey</st1:place></st1:State>,
<st1:country-region><st1:place>USA</st1:place></st1:country-region> for over 30
years.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>  </span>Located at exit 7 of the New
Jersey Turnpike and just 3 miles from the Pennsylvania Turnpike extension makes
my agency convenient to most of <st1:State><st1:place>New Jersey</st1:place></st1:State>.<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>  </span>My location is only 60 miles from <st1:City><st1:place><b>New
  York City</b></st1:place></st1:City> and 30 Miles from the <b>City of </b><st1:City><st1:place><b>Philadelphia</b></st1:place></st1:City>.
For businesses looking to expand or relocate, we have major airports, rails,
highways, and sea ports.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>  </span>There is a
large, highly trained and experienced work force in the surrounding area.</p>

<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:none;
text-autospace:none'><span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span></p>

<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:none;
text-autospace:none'>What ever your needs, corporate investor, individual
investor, referral, relocation, accountant, legal, or financial, I can assist
you in meeting your requirements in <st1:State><st1:place>New Jersey</st1:place></st1:State>.
I am experienced with <b>commercial</b>, <b>investment</b>, and <b>residential </b>properties.<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>  </span>No transaction is too large.<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>  </span>I service <b>national</b> and <b>international</b>
clients. </p>

<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:none;
text-autospace:none'><span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span></p>

<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:none;
text-autospace:none'>Just a little about me.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> 
</span></p>

<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:none;
text-autospace:none'><b>Education:</b></p>

<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:none;
text-autospace:none'><span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>      </span>1. Completed
graduate programs in Finance and Banking at the Universities of<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>         </span></p>

<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:.25in;mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:
none;text-autospace:none'><span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>    </span><st1:State><st1:place>Wisconsin</st1:place></st1:State>
and <st1:State><st1:place>Delaware</st1:place></st1:State><span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>  </span></p>

<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:.25in;mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:
none;text-autospace:none'>2. Completed the Arden House program at the <st1:place><st1:PlaceName>Columbia</st1:PlaceName>
 <st1:PlaceType>University</st1:PlaceType></st1:place> for Executive </p>

<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:none;
text-autospace:none'><span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>          </span>Management<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>       </span></p>

<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:none;
text-autospace:none'><span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>      </span>3. Graduate of
the <st1:place><st1:PlaceName>Princeton</st1:PlaceName> <st1:PlaceType>School</st1:PlaceType></st1:place>
for Real Estate Brokers</p>

<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:.5in;mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:
none;text-autospace:none'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p>

<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:none;
text-autospace:none'><b>Experience:</b> </p>

<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:none;
text-autospace:none'><span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>     </span>Over 30 years
experience in Real Estate &amp; Finance all in <st1:State><st1:place>New Jersey</st1:place></st1:State>.<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>  </span>I have never relocated more than 2 miles from
where I grew up.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>  </span>Very active in my
community and been elected to serve on the local School Board and Town Council.
Other activities included business organizations, Lions, Elks, and community
projects.</p>

<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:none;
text-autospace:none'><span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span></p>

<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:none;
text-autospace:none'>If this subject matter does not interest you, then I
apologize for taking your time. Please click this link <a
href="mailto:remove@century21joe.com">remove@century21joe.com</a><span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>  </span>and you should not hear from me again.</p>

<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:none;
text-autospace:none'><span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span></p>

<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:none;
text-autospace:none'>If I can assist you in any way please contact me at <a
href="mailto:joe@century21joe.com">joe@century21joe.com</a><span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>  </span>or visit my web site at <a
href="http://www.century21newjersey.net/">http://www.century21newjersey.net</a>.</p>

<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:none;
text-autospace:none'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p>

<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:none;
text-autospace:none'><span style='font-size:8.0pt'>*Each Office Independently
Owned and Operated <o:p></o:p></span></p>

<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:none;
text-autospace:none'><span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>      </span></p>

</div>

</body>

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From owner-glass Sun Jan 19 06:29:59 2003
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Subject: Re: Kaleidoscope Oil
Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 09:08:31 EST
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Precedence: bulk

Sue,

I have The Kaleidoscope Book, edited by Thom Boswell.  There are many 
beautiful kaleidoscopes featured in the book.  The only reference I find to 
oil used to suspend objects is to "pure mineral oil."

Hope this helps.

Carolyn
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From owner-glass Sun Jan 19 10:12:11 2003
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From: "Vicki" <birkie@vcn.com>
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Subject: Re: bungi:  looking for a peacock pattern
Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 10:56:23 -0700 (Mountain Standard Time)
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There is a nice Peacock pattern in the Winter 1995/96 Glass Patterns
Quarterly.=0D
=0D
Vicki
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<DIV>There is a nice Peacock pattern in the Winter 1995/96 Glass Patterns=
 Quarterly.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Vicki</DIV>
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From owner-glass Sun Jan 19 10:45:14 2003
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Subject: re:  Peacock Pattern
Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 11:28:42 -0700
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Don't know what happened with the last email I just sent (when I got it, it
was blank on my end)...so here I go again :-)

There is a nice pattern in the Winter 1995/96 Glass Patterns Quarterly.

Vicki


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From owner-glass Sun Jan 19 11:39:49 2003
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Subject: Forming & shaping copper tubing & wire
Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 11:29:49 -0800 (PST)
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Hi Guys

Can anyone tell me some ways to form & shape copper
tubing and wire.  I'm trying to use some 3/8 and 1/2
in. soft copper tubing, but it's very hard to get the
curves and bends I want without kinks. I also have
trouble with some of the larger gauge copper wire.

Thanks
Alex Gacic

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From owner-glass Sun Jan 19 22:31:48 2003
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Subject: Re: Forming & shaping copper tubing & wire
Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 22:05:56 +0000
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Hi Alex,

Visit your local independent hardware store, or possibly your local auto
parts supply house.  There are special "tubing benders", that allow you
to make kink free bends in copper tubing.  The cheaper versions, (one
maker is KD Tools), look sorta like an aluminum fist.. there are
different sized grooves for different sized tubing, that fit in this
semicircular tool.  You put your piece of tubing in the appropriate
groove, and gently work it through the arc, or such portion of the arc
as you need.  The higher end tools, work much better (one maker is
Imperial), but it's a single sized bender for a single size of tubing,
and they're a good bit more expensive ($40+).  These have a circular
steel mandrel with the appropriate sized groove, and a "follower" on a
long handle, that allows you to have some real leverage to make the
bend.  With the follower on the outside of the tubing, and the proper
sized groove on the interior of the bend, you get a very smooth and
clean bend.. no kinks.

A couple of hints from an old tubing bender.  If at all possible, anneal
that copper tubing before you decide to bend it.  To anneal copper, you
need to get it red hot, and then allow it to cool down slowly all by
itself.  There's no need to anneal the entire section of tubing if
you're only bending a section of it, just anneal that.  Yes.. this will
discolor the tubing, it'll turn at first an interesting blue color, and
then it'll go black with oxide.  Some steel wool and a minor bit of
elbow grease will remove the coloration.

Also, for the larger diameter tubing (the 3/8" is right at the line..
the 1/2" is definitely larger diameter tubing), if you can apply a
lubricant of some sort to the tubing, the size specific high end benders
will do a better job.  I've used paraffin wax, a thin coat of grease,
and at times.. just some light oil.. it depended on what I had on hand. 
The lubricant lets the bender go over the surface without leaving as
many imperfections.  Again, a good cleaning and you're back in business.

Bending wire is a bit different, since you're bending a solid, but there
are several wire bending jigs available, you can find them in some
hardware stores, and some specialty shops, like craft outlets.  They're
not terribly large, but offer you a solid mandrel around which to form
the wire.  Again, annealing does help, but the wire won't really kink,
since it's solid.

Finally, there are some really interesting techniques for making very
complex and unusual bent shapes in tubing, copper in particular.  Again,
it all begins with annealing the copper.  Then, there are special
"bending alloys", that are metal alloys with low melting temperatures. 
Cerro-Bend is one brand name.. most are alloys of bismuth.  At any
rates.. these alloys melt at the temperature of boiling water (actually
a bit under that).  So, you take your annealed bit of tubing (that
you've also cleaned up from the inside with a bore brush), and tape over
one end to close it.  Then you take your molten alloy, and introduce it
into the tube (I find preheating the tube a bit, or standing it in hot
water makes this work better).  Fill up the tube.. make sure that there
are no air pockets.. and allow it all to cool down.

Now, do your bending.. since you've turned the tube into a "solid", the
bends will be harder to make, but for the same reason, the tubing
doesn't collapse.  Bend it any way that suits you.. and when you're
finished bending, stick the thing back into some boiling water.  The
alloy will melt out, and flow out.. and you've got your hollow bent
shape!  The alloy can be reused many, many times.. so don't throw it
out.  While this is a whole lot more complicated than you'll probably
ever want to do.. it's nice to know that there is a way to do it, and
it's not as complex as you may have once thought.

Good Luck, and.. Peace  - Gerry
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From owner-glass Mon Jan 20 08:45:53 2003
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Subject: RE: bungi:  looking for a peacock pattern
Date: Mon, 20 Jan 2003 07:57:03 -0700
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Precedence: bulk

http://www.warner-criv.com/search/pat_search.asp?mscssid=&ct=wc_patterns&q1=
peacock

regards,
charlie
cave creek, az

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bergjuca@aol.com [mailto:Bergjuca@aol.com]
> Sent: Saturday, January 18, 2003 11:37 AM
> To: glass@bungi.com
> Subject: bungi: looking for a peacock pattern
> 
> 
> hey gang, i'm looking for a peacock pattern or picture that 
> will work for a 
> sidelight to a front door.  i've seen a few and one in 
> particular that i 
> liked but for the life of me i can't seem to locate it again. 
>  does anyone 
> have any ideas on sites where i might find this?  i've used 
> google.com but am 
> not really coming up with what i want.  is there another good 
> search engine 
> or site?  thanks!
> jules
> ontario
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From owner-glass Mon Jan 20 09:13:50 2003
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Subject: RE: bungi:  looking for a peacock pattern
Date: Mon, 20 Jan 2003 07:57:03 -0700
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Precedence: bulk

http://www.warner-criv.com/search/pat_search.asp?mscssid=&ct=wc_patterns&q1=
peacock

regards,
charlie
cave creek, az

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bergjuca@aol.com [mailto:Bergjuca@aol.com]
> Sent: Saturday, January 18, 2003 11:37 AM
> To: glass@bungi.com
> Subject: bungi: looking for a peacock pattern
> 
> 
> hey gang, i'm looking for a peacock pattern or picture that 
> will work for a 
> sidelight to a front door.  i've seen a few and one in 
> particular that i 
> liked but for the life of me i can't seem to locate it again. 
>  does anyone 
> have any ideas on sites where i might find this?  i've used 
> google.com but am 
> not really coming up with what i want.  is there another good 
> search engine 
> or site?  thanks!
> jules
> ontario
> ----
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From owner-glass Mon Jan 20 09:44:04 2003
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Subject: RE: Shimmery green glass ???
Date: Mon, 20 Jan 2003 07:58:56 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@stratus.com>
Precedence: bulk

yes, bullseye adventurine green. it also comes in blue.

http://www.bullseye-glass.com/products/sctran.html

regards,
charlie
cave creek, az

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jerry [mailto:jerryc34@attbi.com]
> Sent: Saturday, January 18, 2003 12:04 PM
> To: glass@bungi.com
> Subject: Shimmery green glass ???
> 
> 
> I hope I'm not violating any rules but I scanned up a small 
> sample of this
> glass I just cut, do any of you think you could pinpoint what 
> manufacturer
> made it? This glass is beautiful and I'd like to see what 
> other colouors
> they offer it in.
> 
> It is a really nice multi green that looks as if it's got 
> TINY specks of
> gold glitter in it.  The smoother side has a texture similar 
> to water glass,
> the other side has a rougher texture, not sure what you'd call it.
> 
> Do any of you have any idea who might have manufactured this? 
> Any insight
> appreciated.
> 
> Thanks in advance...
> 
> Jerry
> 
> 
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From owner-glass Mon Jan 20 14:10:28 2003
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From: Sherry Greer <texpenguin@yahoo.com>
To: GlassList <glass@bungi.com>
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Subject: bending tubing
Date: Mon, 20 Jan 2003 13:13:45 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>
Precedence: bulk

I've seen inexpensive tools for bending tubing
that are basically heavy duty springs just large
enough to fit over your tube, that supports the
tube while you bend, but doesn't allow it to
kink.  Similar to the spring you sometimes see
over the end of your garden hose at the
spigot-again, to keep it from kinking and cutting
off the water supply.  Of course, you need a
specific spring for each size tubing, but I bet
they're quite a bit less expensive than the fancy
grooved bending jigs.
Sherry


=====
Sherry Greer
Lady Penguinevere Designs
texpenguin@tsgreer.com

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From owner-glass Mon Jan 20 15:13:39 2003
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X-Path: yahoo.com!flesien4
From: florence esien <flesien4@yahoo.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Mime-Version: 1.0
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Subject: URGENT ATTENTION PLEASE
Date: Mon, 20 Jan 2003 14:05:57 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>
Precedence: bulk

DEAR SIR
How are you my dear? I saw your contact on Internet
and pick interest to write you. I am a female student
from University of Zimbabwe, Harare. I am 25 years
old. I’d like any person who can be caring, loving and
home oriented. I will love to have a long – term
relationship with you and to know more about you. I
would like to build up a solid foundation with you
in time coming if you can be able to help me in this
transaction,
Well, my father died earlier two months ago and left I
and my younger brother behind. He is a king, which our
town citizens titled him before he died. I was a
princess to him and I am the only person who can take
care of his wealth now because my younger brother is
still a kid and my mother is not literate enough to
know all my father’s wealth. He left up to
USD20,350,000.00 dollars (Twenty Million, Three
Hundred and Fifty Thousand US Dollars) with a security
company in Europe and I don’t know how to and what I
will do to invest this money somewhere in abroad, so
that my father’s kindred will not take over what
belongs to my father and our family, which they were
planning to do without my present because I am a
female as stated by our culture in the town. That is
why I felt happy when I saw your contact because I
strongly believe that by the grace of God, you will
help me invest this money I am ready to pay 10% of the
total amount to you if you help us in this business
and another 10% interest of Annual. After Income to
you., for handling this business for us, which you
will strongly have absolute control over it, If you
can handle this project sincerely and also willing to
assist me in lifting this fund, kindly reach me and I
will link you to my legal representative for further
discussion. Please, note that this transaction is 100%
risk free and I hope to commence the transaction as
quick as possible, as soon as I hear from you,
Yours sincere Princess.
FLORENCE ESIEN MUGARBE



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From owner-glass Mon Jan 20 18:47:26 2003
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X-Path: earthlink.net!glasscutter
From: Gerry Phibbs <glasscutter@earthlink.net>
To: Sherry Greer <texpenguin@yahoo.com>, GlassList <glass@bungi.com>
Mime-Version: 1.0
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Subject: Re: bending tubing
Date: Mon, 20 Jan 2003 18:16:18 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@earthlink.net>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Hi Sherry..

  Yes.. those spring benders are also available.  The simple reason that
I made no mention of them, is because I've used them!  The problem is
not so much making the bend, but the real hassle comes in trying to get
the spring off the bent shape!  The tubing does deform a bit, and even
with just a 45 degree bend, the coils of the spring tend to hang up on
the bend, making it quite difficult if not impossible to get the spring
off of the copper.  In extreme cases, I've had to literally unwind the
spring off of the bent shape, a coil at a time.. not a particularly
pleasant way to spend one's time.  Further, the spring coils do leave
surface impressions on the copper, and what you get is a bit obround
bend, with a sort of knurled surface on the outside edges of the copper
tubing, that aren't easy to remove.

  Spring benders are good for some things.. very small steel tubing for
example, as are used for various vacuum tubes or brake lines in
automotive, but I can't recommend them for use on copper tubing.. and
for the sizes that were mentioned 3/8" and 1/2", they'd make the job far
more hassle, and deliver an unsatisfactory result.  Bending those sizes
of copper, is going to be a hassle, no matter what.. especially to get a
nice smooth clean bend.  Commercially, a special "mandrel" bender is
used.  This is a specially tooled piece of equipment, where a segmented
mandrel is first inserted into the tubing, and then hydraulics are used
to make the bend (very precisely at that), and then this mandrel which
rather resembles bead chain, but is made of hardened tool steel, is then
hydraulically pulled out of the tubing while it's still being held in
the larger tool.  The result is a very precise, and round shaped bend,
that is fairly easy to create on not just copper, but steel, aluminum,
and stainless steel tubing of many sizes.  But I don't recommend trying
this method either, due to the expense and set up.. unless maybe you're
going to make 100K pieces, all with the same bend.

  But hey.. go for it!  Maybe they'll work for you.. and I'm all in
favor of folks finding a means to do something that works for them!

  Peace  -Gerry
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From owner-glass Tue Jan 21 07:10:33 2003
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X-Path: stratus.com!Charlie.Spitzer
From: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie.Spitzer@stratus.com>
To: GlassList <glass@bungi.com>
Mime-Version: 1.0
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Subject: RE: bending tubing
Date: Tue, 21 Jan 2003 07:18:35 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@stratus.com>
Precedence: bulk

i think filling the tube with sand and plugging the ends will prevent it
from kinking when bending. i know that works with acrylic tubing that is
heated to bend.

regards,
charlie
cave creek, az

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Sherry Greer [mailto:texpenguin@yahoo.com]
> Sent: Monday, January 20, 2003 2:14 PM
> To: GlassList
> Subject: bending tubing
> 
> 
> I've seen inexpensive tools for bending tubing
> that are basically heavy duty springs just large
> enough to fit over your tube, that supports the
> tube while you bend, but doesn't allow it to
> kink.  Similar to the spring you sometimes see
> over the end of your garden hose at the
> spigot-again, to keep it from kinking and cutting
> off the water supply.  Of course, you need a
> specific spring for each size tubing, but I bet
> they're quite a bit less expensive than the fancy
> grooved bending jigs.
> Sherry
> 
> 
> =====
> Sherry Greer
> Lady Penguinevere Designs
> texpenguin@tsgreer.com
----
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From owner-glass Tue Jan 21 11:42:34 2003
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Subject: sand blasting? glass
Date: Tue, 21 Jan 2003 13:10:47 -0600
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Precedence: bulk

--=====================_80710758==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed

Hello:

I purchased a unit a number of years ago, but I think the compressor is not 
large enough.  I have a Art Blast Co. cabinet with a large nozzle/hose and 
a smaller pencil nozzle.  I haven't used it now for several years due to 
the fact that it takes forever to even frost a surface, forget any 
cutting.  The compressor has gauges on the tank showing 160 psi, but I 
think that was the minimum requirement listed for the equipment I am 
using.  Question: would a larger compressor do the frosting more rapidly 
and do cutting?  Or, am I having trouble with the grit.  I remember trying 
a number of grits and don't remember what I have in there currently.  Any 
suggestions? Thanks, Pat DIACCA Topp
--=====================_80710758==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

<html>
Hello:<br><br>
I purchased a unit a number of years ago, but I think the compressor is
not large enough.&nbsp; I have a Art Blast Co. cabinet with a large
nozzle/hose and a smaller pencil nozzle.&nbsp; I haven't used it now for
several years due to the fact that it takes forever to even
<i><u>frost</u></i> a surface, forget any cutting.&nbsp; The compressor
has gauges on the tank showing 160 psi, but I think that was the minimum
requirement listed for the equipment I am using.&nbsp; <b>Question:</b>
would a larger compressor do the frosting more rapidly and do
cutting?&nbsp; Or, am I having trouble with the grit.&nbsp; I remember
trying a number of grits and don't remember what I have in there
currently.&nbsp; Any suggestions? Thanks, Pat DIACCA Topp</html>

--=====================_80710758==_.ALT--


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From owner-glass Tue Jan 21 12:46:38 2003
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Subject: sand blasting? glass
Date: Tue, 21 Jan 2003 13:10:47 -0600
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Precedence: bulk

--=====================_80710758==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed

Hello:

I purchased a unit a number of years ago, but I think the compressor is not 
large enough.  I have a Art Blast Co. cabinet with a large nozzle/hose and 
a smaller pencil nozzle.  I haven't used it now for several years due to 
the fact that it takes forever to even frost a surface, forget any 
cutting.  The compressor has gauges on the tank showing 160 psi, but I 
think that was the minimum requirement listed for the equipment I am 
using.  Question: would a larger compressor do the frosting more rapidly 
and do cutting?  Or, am I having trouble with the grit.  I remember trying 
a number of grits and don't remember what I have in there currently.  Any 
suggestions? Thanks, Pat DIACCA Topp
--=====================_80710758==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

<html>
Hello:<br><br>
I purchased a unit a number of years ago, but I think the compressor is
not large enough.&nbsp; I have a Art Blast Co. cabinet with a large
nozzle/hose and a smaller pencil nozzle.&nbsp; I haven't used it now for
several years due to the fact that it takes forever to even
<i><u>frost</u></i> a surface, forget any cutting.&nbsp; The compressor
has gauges on the tank showing 160 psi, but I think that was the minimum
requirement listed for the equipment I am using.&nbsp; <b>Question:</b>
would a larger compressor do the frosting more rapidly and do
cutting?&nbsp; Or, am I having trouble with the grit.&nbsp; I remember
trying a number of grits and don't remember what I have in there
currently.&nbsp; Any suggestions? Thanks, Pat DIACCA Topp</html>

--=====================_80710758==_.ALT--


----
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From owner-glass Tue Jan 21 13:44:15 2003
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X-Path: yahoo.com!beadnik
From: Joan <beadnik@yahoo.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Cutting internal holes
Date: Tue, 21 Jan 2003 13:13:05 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>
Precedence: bulk

MIME-Version: 1.0
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I would like to be able to cut an approx. 2" hole in a
piece of glass that is no larger than 7" X 7"
(probably more of a rectangular shape than that,
actually). The 2" circle does not need to survive
intact, but the outside portion does. 

Does anyone have suggestions for the easiest way to
accomplish this, as I may need to make a number of
these???  I do have a Taurus II Ring Saw... don't have
the separating blade, but I could purchase one.  I do
NOT have access to sand blasting equipment. 

Any and all suggestions appreciated.

Joan

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From owner-glass Tue Jan 21 14:19:32 2003
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Subject: RE: Cutting internal holes
Date: Tue, 21 Jan 2003 14:50:54 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@stratus.com>
Precedence: bulk

i did this a little while ago.

i used a small diameter grinderhead. mark and drill out a series of holes
around the perimeter of your inside hole. enlarge one of them large enough
to get your grozers into it, and just nibble out the inside. make lots of
scores between the holes so once the breaks start, they run to somewhere
you've planned for, rather than randomly.

regards,
charlie
cave creek, az

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Joan [mailto:beadnik@yahoo.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, January 21, 2003 2:13 PM
> To: glass@bungi.com
> Subject: Cutting internal holes
> 
> 
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
> 
> I would like to be able to cut an approx. 2" hole in a
> piece of glass that is no larger than 7" X 7"
> (probably more of a rectangular shape than that,
> actually). The 2" circle does not need to survive
> intact, but the outside portion does. 
> 
> Does anyone have suggestions for the easiest way to
> accomplish this, as I may need to make a number of
> these???  I do have a Taurus II Ring Saw... don't have
> the separating blade, but I could purchase one.  I do
> NOT have access to sand blasting equipment. 
> 
> Any and all suggestions appreciated.
> 
> Joan
> 
> __________________________________________________
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> 
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From owner-glass Tue Jan 21 17:09:14 2003
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From: Rick Worsnop <RWorsnop@infobal.com>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Mime-Version: 1.0
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Subject: RE: Cutting internal holes
Date: Tue, 21 Jan 2003 19:39:32 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@infobal.com>
Precedence: bulk

Hi, Joan. I've had good results using a Dremel or similar rotary tool with a
pointed diamond bit to drill the initial hole. You will need a separating
ringsaw blade if you choose to use the saw to cut out the hole. Otherwise
you can continue to grind the hole progressively larger with the Dremel tool
and then your bench grinder--a gruelling task, and hard on the grinder. If
you're brave, you can score the circle (1-15/16"), score 6-8 radii into the
center and drill holes at the center and at the outer end of each ray.
Support the sheet on a thin cardboard sheet with a 2-1/8" hole cutout,
concentric with the hole scored on the glass. Now here's the trick. Drop
half a dozen or so small solder balls the same thickness as the cardboard,
and place them under the glass, in the hole in the cardboard, and aligned
with the score lines. By tapping lightly with the butt of your cutter handle
you may be able to break out the circle in several pieces. I've had success
with this method, especially if I score two concentric circles, about a
1/16" difference in radius. the inner circle in this case would be about
1-7/8" and is the target diameter of the break. The outer circle at 1-15/16"
is a "safety" score to contain a running radius (doesn't always work,
but--what the hey--your looking for ideas, right?

I happened upon the use of a small solder ball as a scoring fulcrum by
accident (and a perpetually messy bench) and have used them frequently to
assist with long wavy runs in "less than forgiving" glass. I lay a series of
solder balls on a clean worksurface, lined-up directly under the score line
(the hardest part of the process) then I gently push down on both sides of
the score starting at one edge of the glass and working my way along the
line. Works well most of the time.

Rick in Waterloo

-----Original Message-----
From: Joan [mailto:beadnik@yahoo.com]
Sent: January 21, 2003 4:13 PM
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Cutting internal holes


MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

I would like to be able to cut an approx. 2" hole in a
piece of glass that is no larger than 7" X 7"
(probably more of a rectangular shape than that,
actually). The 2" circle does not need to survive
intact, but the outside portion does. 

Does anyone have suggestions for the easiest way to
accomplish this, as I may need to make a number of
these???  I do have a Taurus II Ring Saw... don't have
the separating blade, but I could purchase one.  I do
NOT have access to sand blasting equipment. 

Any and all suggestions appreciated.

Joan

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From owner-glass Tue Jan 21 22:10:11 2003
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From: "Moya O'Neal" <moya.oneal@verizon.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
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Subject: RE: cutting a hole in the middle
Date: Tue, 21 Jan 2003 23:56:46 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@verizon.net>
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Joan,
If you have a separating blade, you are home free, almost.  You must =
first drill a hole carefully in order to put the separating blade =
through the glass opening, then saw away.  Remember not to use the same =
part of the saw all the time.  Good luck.
Moya

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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Joan,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>If you have a separating blade, you are =
home free,=20
almost.&nbsp; You must first drill a hole carefully in order to put the=20
separating blade through the glass opening, then saw away.&nbsp; =
Remember not to=20
use the same part of the saw all the time.&nbsp; Good luck.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Moya</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-glass Wed Jan 22 01:18:07 2003
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Subject: Writers wanted, readers needed
Date: Wed, 22 Jan 2003 03:42:36 -0500
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Students, teachers, readers, and writers alike, gather your paper, uncap
your pens, and dust off your reading glasses because Poetrylist is back and
bigger than 
ever.

If you're a talented ambitious writer looking for a way to share your art
or simply someone who loves poetry in general read on because Poetrylist
will fit your needs.  
Poetrylist is an online newsletter that tackles many aspects of the art. 
Writers are able submit works and read and rate others.  Readers are able
to enjoy the art 
form that they love so much.  

Email  Zach back for more info.  Please mention ID# 121


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From owner-glass Wed Jan 22 06:11:22 2003
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From: Joan <beadnik@yahoo.com>
To: Moya O'Neal <moya.oneal@verizon.net>, glass@bungi.com
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Subject: RE: cutting a hole in the middle
Date: Wed, 22 Jan 2003 05:51:04 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@verizon.net>>
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Thanks for all the great suggestions.  I do not have a
separating blade, but I could surely purchase one....
that seems like the easiest option if I am to do a
number of these.

Has anyone used gthe separating blades for the
Taurus???  How much of a pain are they to separate and
then put together again???

Thanks again!

Joan

--- Moya O'Neal <moya.oneal@verizon.net> wrote:
> Joan,
> If you have a separating blade, you are home free,
> almost.  You must first drill a hole carefully in
> order to put the separating blade through the glass
> opening, then saw away.  Remember not to use the
> same part of the saw all the time.  Good luck.
> Moya
> 


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* We only send mail to subscribers=2E If=A0 for some reason this email wou=
ld reach

=A0 you unsolicited , our apologize=2E In that case you may unsubscribe at=
:=20

=A0 http://unsubscribe=2Egaleriazero=2Ecom=A0and after you will not be

=A0 contacted again=2E=A0 (Also by email is possible to: unsubscribe@galer=
iazero=2Ecom)

=A0

=A0

GALERIAZERO=2ECOM=A0=A0=A0=A0 http://www=2Egaleriazero=2Ecom

=A0

Dear colleague,=20

=A0

In order to continue promoting your work, we would be pleased if=20

you could inform us about your actual way of working=2E=20

=A0

At the same time we wish to inform you about the advantages of=20

membership , promotion opportunities by internet and exposure

in our upcoming shows=2E=20

=A0

1)=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0 About membership:

Find all details at=A0=A0=A0 http://www=2Egaleriazero=2Ecom/membership=2Eh=
tml=A0=A0=20

=A0

2)=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0 About internet promotion:

- Host your actual webpage in GALERIAZERO=2ECOM and=20

=A0 get=A0 100 mb=A0 (inclusive email, control panel, support etc)=A0 for =
just =80 50,-=20


=A0 more than your membership=2E

=B7=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0 If you are not a member the costs will be=A0 =80 =
105,- (Euros) per year=2E

Email us for more details:=A0 hosting@galeriazero=2Ecom

=A0

3)=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0 Participate in our upcoming shows=A0 in Barcelona=2E=A0=
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Find details=A0 at=A0 :=A0 http://contemporary=2Egaleriazero=2Ecom

=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=
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Kind regards,

=A0

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<P class=3DMsoNormal><SPAN lang=3DEN-GB>In order to continue promoting you=
r work, we=20
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ind all=20
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style=3D"FONT: 7pt 'Times New Roman'">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=
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style=3D"FONT: 7pt 'Times New Roman'">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=
=20
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style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </SPAN>in Barcelona=2E<SPAN=20
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 22 07:30:12 2003
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	for rglass-42; Wed, 22 Jan 2003 07:19:53 -0800 (PST)
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X-Path: ny.com!mariamabacha1
From: "mariam abacha" <mariamabacha1@ny.com>
To: mariamabacha1@ny.com
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="=====================_889472414==_"
Subject: BUSINESS PROPOSAL
Date: 22 Jan 2003 15:11:53 -0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@ny.com>
Precedence: bulk


--=====================_889472414==_
Content-Type: text/plain
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit



Dear sir\madam
 
 
In recent times over the radio in AMERICA or even in
ASIA about my family regarding huge sums of money
stacked in foreign banks on different names for
business .I believe is a legacy we came to meet when
we became the head of state .
It does not matter whether you are small or big but
your ability to help me sort out things is mostly
needed now .I do not justify myself but it has
happened and it is mostly common with African leaders 
.So i need you to help me survive in life. 
Following the sudden death of my husband General Sani
Abacha the late former head of state of Nigeria in
August 1998, I have been thrown into a state of utter
confusion, frustration and hopelessness by the present
civilian administration, I have been subjected to
physical and psychological torture by the security
agents in the country. 
My son is under detention arraigned before the federal
high court of Nigeria for an offence he did not commit
and will be released on condition if we(Abacha
Family)will forget about the $700 million dollars my
late husband kept in Amsterdam,then my son will be
released which i just agreed on last week to effect
the release of my son MOHAMMED but they still held 
him back in prison saying until they have recovered
all the money in other banks in any other country my
late husband looted,You can imagine that!.
As a widow that is so traumatized,I have lost
confidence with anybody within the country.
You must have heard over the media reports and the
internet on the recovery of various huge sums of money
deposited by my husband in different banks as i said
earlier above abroad.
Some companies willingly give up their secrets and
disclosed our money confidently lodged with them and
many outright blackmailed us.
In fact the total sum recovered by the Government so
far is in the tune of $900. Million dollars and i can
boldly tell you that I dont even know about all this
money sincerely until the present government started
recovering them and forcing me to sign at gun point.
And they are not relenting to make me poor for life. I
got your contacts through my personal research,and out
of desperation decided to reach you through this
medium.
I will give you more information  regarding this as
soon as you respond to this mail.
I repose great confidence in you,You may not be able
to talk to me on phone because more than 80 armed
security operatives are daily parading my place of
"House Arrest" in the Presidential Villa and the only
thing I have with me is this "Laptop" they agreed to
give me to keep me company in playing games not
knowing the "Laptop" has internet connection from
where am sending you this mail.
So that is why I decided to contact you and I
hope you will not betray my confidence in you. I have
deposited the sum of 10.3 million dollars with a
security firm abroad whose name is witheld for now
until we open communication.
I shall be grateful if you could receive this fund
into your account for safe keeping.
This arrangement is known to you and my sons Mustapha
and Mohammed who is in prison alone.It will not take
more than 7 working days to accomplish depending on
your seriousness
So my son(MUSTAFA) the only one now around in Lagos
schooling in our local university will deal directly
with you as security is up my whole being.
I am seriously considering to settle down abroad in
future in a friendly atmosphere like yours as soon as
this fund get into your account so that I can start
all over again if only you wish, but it is impossible
for now.Just help me in diverting this fund into your
account which will accrue you 30% of this fund .
Please honesty is the watch word in this transaction.
I will require your telephone and fax numbers so that
we can commence communication immediately and I will
give you a more detailed picture of things.
In case you dont accept, please do not let me out to
the security as I am giving you this information in
total trust and confidence
I will greatly appreciate if you could accept my
proposal in good faith.

Please expedite action.

Thank You Very Much

Hajia Mariam Abacha


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Dear sir\madam<br />
 <br />
 <br />
In recent times over the radio in AMERICA or even in<br />
ASIA about my family regarding huge sums of money<br />
stacked in foreign banks on different names for<br />
business .I believe is a legacy we came to meet when<br />
we became the head of state .<br />
It does not matter whether you are small or big but<br />
your ability to help me sort out things is mostly<br />
needed now .I do not justify myself but it has<br />
happened and it is mostly common with African leaders <br />
.So i need you to help me survive in life. <br />
Following the sudden death of my husband General Sani<br />
Abacha the late former head of state of Nigeria in<br />
August 1998, I have been thrown into a state of utter<br />
confusion, frustration and hopelessness by the present<br />
civilian administration, I have been subjected to<br />
physical and psychological torture by the security<br />
agents in the country. <br />
My son is under detention arraigned before the federal<br />
high court of Nigeria for an offence he did not commit<br />
and will be released on condition if we(Abacha<br />
Family)will forget about the $700 million dollars my<br />
late husband kept in Amsterdam,then my son will be<br />
released which i just agreed on last week to effect<br />
the release of my son MOHAMMED but they still held <br />
him back in prison saying until they have recovered<br />
all the money in other banks in any other country my<br />
late husband looted,You can imagine that!.<br />
As a widow that is so traumatized,I have lost<br />
confidence with anybody within the country.<br />
You must have heard over the media reports and the<br />
internet on the recovery of various huge sums of money<br />
deposited by my husband in different banks as i said<br />
earlier above abroad.<br />
Some companies willingly give up their secrets and<br />
disclosed our money confidently lodged with them and<br />
many outright blackmailed us.<br />
In fact the total sum recovered by the Government so<br />
far is in the tune of $900. Million dollars and i can<br />
boldly tell you that I dont even know about all this<br />
money sincerely until the present government started<br />
recovering them and forcing me to sign at gun point.<br />
And they are not relenting to make me poor for life. I<br />
got your contacts through my personal research,and out<br />
of desperation decided to reach you through this<br />
medium.<br />
I will give you more information  regarding this as<br />
soon as you respond to this mail.<br />
I repose great confidence in you,You may not be able<br />
to talk to me on phone because more than 80 armed<br />
security operatives are daily parading my place of<br />
"House Arrest" in the Presidential Villa and the only<br />
thing I have with me is this "Laptop" they agreed to<br />
give me to keep me company in playing games not<br />
knowing the "Laptop" has internet connection from<br />
where am sending you this mail.<br />
So that is why I decided to contact you and I<br />
hope you will not betray my confidence in you. I have<br />
deposited the sum of 10.3 million dollars with a<br />
security firm abroad whose name is witheld for now<br />
until we open communication.<br />
I shall be grateful if you could receive this fund<br />
into your account for safe keeping.<br />
This arrangement is known to you and my sons Mustapha<br />
and Mohammed who is in prison alone.It will not take<br />
more than 7 working days to accomplish depending on<br />
your seriousness<br />
So my son(MUSTAFA) the only one now around in Lagos<br />
schooling in our local university will deal directly<br />
with you as security is up my whole being.<br />
I am seriously considering to settle down abroad in<br />
future in a friendly atmosphere like yours as soon as<br />
this fund get into your account so that I can start<br />
all over again if only you wish, but it is impossible<br />
for now.Just help me in diverting this fund into your<br />
account which will accrue you 30% of this fund .<br />
Please honesty is the watch word in this transaction.<br />
I will require your telephone and fax numbers so that<br />
we can commence communication immediately and I will<br />
give you a more detailed picture of things.<br />
In case you dont accept, please do not let me out to<br />
the security as I am giving you this information in<br />
total trust and confidence<br />
I will greatly appreciate if you could accept my<br />
proposal in good faith.<br />
<br />
Please expedite action.<br />
<br />
Thank You Very Much<br />
<br />
Hajia Mariam Abacha<br />
</font></div></body></html><br><br><br>

--=====================_889472414==_--
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From owner-glass Thu Jan 23 03:32:15 2003
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Subject: Massive!                               
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RE9FUyBUSEUgU0laRSBPRiBZT1VSIFBFTklTIFJFQUxMWSBNQVRURVI/DQoN
Clllc4UgTW9yZSB0aGFuIHlvdSBjYW4gaW1hZ2luZS4NCg0KQnV0IHRoZSBQ
ZW5pcyBFbmxhcmdlbWVudCBNZXRob2QgeW91IA0KY2hvb3NlIG1hdHRlcnMg
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From owner-glass Thu Jan 23 13:14:30 2003
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X-Path: stratus.com!Charlie.Spitzer
From: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie.Spitzer@stratus.com>
To: "'Lori J. Mitchell'" <lmitchell@glastar.com>
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Subject: RE: re[2]: Cutting internal holes
Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 13:56:34 -0700
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yeah, but in my case i was cutting one 4" hole in an 18" diameter circle. it
would have cost me a fortune for a 4" diamond core bit, along with the cost
of a very large drill press, along with a water feed quill for it.

thanks,
charlie

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Lori J. Mitchell [mailto:lmitchell@glastar.com]
> Sent: Thursday, January 23, 2003 2:00 PM
> To: Spitzer, Charlie
> Subject: re[2]: Cutting internal holes
> 
> 
> Dear Hole Cutters,
> 
> I think you are all doing it the hard way.  Glastar has many 
> sizes of core 
> drill bits that will fit a regular hand drill or drill-press. 
>  The core drills 
> have the same diamond bonded edge as the usual grinding heads 
> and we have many 
> two inch bits in stock.  Not only can it make fast perfect 
> holes but the 
> circles make great eyes, grapes etc.  Check out the web site 
> for more info.  A 
> two inch core drill should probably run at about 500 RPMs.  Good Luck.
> 
> 
> Thank you, 
> 
> Lori Mitchell
> Chief Executive Officer
> Glastar Corporation
> www.glastar.com
> 
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From owner-glass Thu Jan 23 16:48:35 2003
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From: Qbon.com/auctions <Qbon.com/Auctions@rdaver.bungi.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Merchandise for sale? 
Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 19:09:35 -0500
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format
--edff23a3-6821-4bee-9823-4b2cc357225b
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I just started a new auction website and wanted to let you know about it.  =
Please take a look at http://www.Qbon.com/auctions/ where there is no listing =
fee.  
--edff23a3-6821-4bee-9823-4b2cc357225b--

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From owner-glass Mon Jan 27 09:23:06 2003
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From: "MARY ELSWORH" <mary_elsworth@juno.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: YOUR KIND ASSISTNACE IS NEEDED
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 17:37:30 +0100
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Your kind attention is needed=3B

With due respect=2C trust and humanity=2Ci and my family send to you this letter seeking for your help and assistance although we have not meet each other before but we hope that this letter will meet you and your family in good condition of health=2EThis is not intended to cause you any embarrassment in whatever form=2C rather compel to contact your esteemed self=2C following knowledge of your high repute and trustworthiness=2Cis borne out of this difficult situation that my family has been engulfed in since my beloved husband and bread winner of our family was forced to relinquish his position in the state=2E

My name is Mrs Mary Nigaga Elsworth=2Cthe wife of late Mr Henry S=2EElsworth of Kwekwe Midlands province of Harare Zimbabwe=2EI am written this letter on behalf of me and my family my son Ian Ku-Ku & my  daughter Malthida daUsomma Elsworth The current war crisis against the farmers going on in my country Zimbabwe from the support of self styled President Robert Gabriel Mugabe=2Cin his envy and greediness to claim all the farms lands for his party members and his followers=2EOur cattle ranch farm is one of  the best grassland cattle farm in our country=2Cbecause my husband did not support Robert Gabriel Mugabe's ideas of killing the farmers and collecting their farms lands from them=2EThis the President Robert Gabriel Mugabe orders his supporters to invaded my husbands grassland cattle
ranch farm in Kwekwe Midlands province of Zimbabwe and burnt everything in the farm and made away with a lot of items on my husband's farm=2E 

Upon this act of greediness Mr=2Epresident have this today =22we are no longer going to ask for the land=2C but we are take it without any negotiation or compassion=22=2EMy husband was a lawmaker in the white=96dominated parliament of Rhodesia=2C as Zimbabwe was known before independence=2C and served as Independent lawmaker among 20 seats reserved for the first seven years of independence=2EHe had been an outspoken critic of President Robert Mugabe's ruling party=2E My husband  has described Robert Mugabe self styled act to farmers as a unjustified war against  land ownership by farmers=2E

Before his death=2Cmy husband deposited with a Security Company in =28Gauteng Province=29of South Africa the sum of US$10 Million}{Ten Million United States  Dollars}
as precious stones and family valuables=2EThis money=2Che meant it for the opening of the new 500 acres of another cattle ranch farm in Shiselweni Village near umbuluzi river Swaziland to open with the help Swaziland Monarch=2CKing Ngeyaiama Mswati =28lll=29=2EBefore my husbands death he has this to say=2C=94 My children=2Cif the war continue like this=2CI have this to tell you as a father that you must never expect that there is a Future in this country for you all=22

After the burial of my husband and the bread winner of the family=2C me and my two children Ian Chris and Malthida daUsomma decided to move to the Republic of South Africa =28as all our hopes is no more=29 where my husband had deposited the money in a security company
as precious stones and family valuables to withdraw and put in-use=2E

Our hopes was turn down as they informed us that it is against the South Africa law for refugees seeking asylums in the country the right to banks or to participate in any financial transaction or to own an enterprise or company of his=2Fher own in their country=2EIt is on this note that me and my children is therefore seeking for your kind assistance to help us
transfer this money to your accounts in your country as the laws of South Africa do not permit us the rights to that and this money is all me and my family hopes for=2E 

As a woman I have two options=3B

A=3A-Firstly you can choose to have certain percentage
of the money for your kind assistance in this
transaction=2E 

B=3A- Or you can go into partnership with me and my
children for the proper and profitable investment in real estates or properties and nay other lucrative venture in =2Eyour country=2E

We have also mapped out 5% of this money for all kinds of expenses we might incur in the process of thistransaction=2EIf you do not prefer a partnership with us we are giving you 35% of the fund while the remaining 60% will be for my children and me and you will still help
us in investing this money in a proper and profitable investment in your country because me and children do not have any knowledge of international business=2E

Please if you are willing to assist me and my children e-mail=2E

Finally=2C we employ your confident to this matter aswell as you love=2Ckindness and understanding=2E

Hopeful to hear from you soon=2E 

Thanks and best regards 
Mrs Mary Elsworth & family=2E
refugee Permit No=2ESA=2FRFI=2F007745=2F02=2FNYNMBM   
=5BDate 3=2F09=2F2002=5D 

for more informations about my late Husband go
www=2E1freespace=2Ecom=2Fbeetee=2Fdec14=2Ehtml=2E






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From owner-glass Mon Jan 27 11:20:59 2003
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X-Path: stratus.com!Charlie.Spitzer
From: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie.Spitzer@stratus.com>
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Subject: RE: Shimmery green glass ???
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 11:49:52 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@stratus.com>
Precedence: bulk

now that i go back to it, i can't find it either. i heard on
http://warmglass.com that it used to be available, but isn't from bullseye
anymore, but it is available from somewhere else. 

i just took delivery of a sheet of the transparent green adventurine
(1112-30F). it is just barely transparent. it fuses up just great, the
sparklies really show up with a clear cap.

regards,
charlie
cave creek, az

> -----Original Message-----
> From: CecWood [mailto:oo2kk6001@sneakemail.com]
> Sent: Sunday, January 26, 2003 7:07 PM
> To: Charlie.Spitzer@stratus.com
> Subject: Re: Shimmery green glass ???
> 
> 
> Went to the site.  I see Adventurine Green, Light Adventurine 
> Green, but 
> which blue would it be?  Is the light green also sparkley? - Cec
> 
> Spitzer, Charlie Charlie.Spitzer-at-stratus.com 
> |Bungier/1.0-Allow| wrote:
> 
> >yes, bullseye adventurine green. it also comes in blue.
> >
> >http://www.bullseye-glass.com/products/sctran.html
> >
> >regards,
> >charlie
> >cave creek, az
> >
> >  
> >
> >>-----Original Message-----
> >>From: Jerry [mailto:jerryc34@attbi.com]
> >>Sent: Saturday, January 18, 2003 12:04 PM
> >>To: glass@bungi.com
> >>Subject: Shimmery green glass ???
> >>
> >>
> >>I hope I'm not violating any rules but I scanned up a small 
> >>sample of this
> >>glass I just cut, do any of you think you could pinpoint what 
> >>manufacturer
> >>made it? This glass is beautiful and I'd like to see what 
> >>other colouors
> >>they offer it in.
> >>
> >>It is a really nice multi green that looks as if it's got 
> >>TINY specks of
> >>gold glitter in it.  The smoother side has a texture similar 
> >>to water glass,
> >>the other side has a rougher texture, not sure what you'd call it.
> >>
> >>Do any of you have any idea who might have manufactured this? 
> >>Any insight
> >>appreciated.
> >>
> >>Thanks in advance...
> >>
> >>Jerry
> >>
> >>
> >>    
> >>
> >----
> >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> >To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> >
> >  
> >
> 
> -- 
> *********************************************************************
> *  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood 
> *  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
> *********************************************************************
> 
> 
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From owner-glass Mon Jan 27 15:10:01 2003
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From: WaynLinda@aol.com
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Subject: mirror in stepping stone
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 17:53:03 EST
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Has anyone ever tried using a mirror in a stepping stone? It won't get a lot 
of "travel;" but I want to put it next to a waterfall and I think the mirror 
would reflect the water in a "cool way"

Linda
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From owner-glass Mon Jan 27 17:17:37 2003
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Subject: Re: mirror in stepping stone
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 20:07:38 -0500
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Linda,

I put strips of mirror in a stepping stone that has spent 2 summers and part of a Michigan winter outside.  The mirror has held up perfectly to the elements.  

Pat
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From owner-glass Tue Jan 28 07:11:38 2003
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Subject: mirror in stepping stone
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Message text written by INTERNET:WaynLinda@aol.com
>Has anyone ever tried using a mirror in a stepping stone? It won't get a=

lot =

of "travel;" but I want to put it next to a waterfall and I think the
mirror =

would reflect the water in a "cool way"<

I've used small pieces of mirror in stepping stones and they do just fine=
. =

They do get hot during the summer if left in direct sunshine.

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
Denton, TX
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From owner-glass Tue Jan 28 09:48:47 2003
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From: Robert Myers <robert@s-cars.org>
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Winder Cleaning
Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 12:04:30 -0500
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Hi Y'all,

More newbie questions:

I have (almost) completed my first panel.  Final cleaning remains.  I have 
been plugging away at removing some excess Inland Cement using a variety of 
tools (a toothpick, a horseshoe nail, my fingernail, Windex and a rag, a 
dry rag, etc.) and have removed a LOT.  This technique, or lack thereof, 
seems to be working pretty well on the smooth surfaces but there remain 
"stains" on the rough surface of some gluechip glass.  Are there any 
suggestions as to how to accomplish this without extreme effort?

I haven't yet tried solvents such as alcohol or acetone or methyl ethyl 
ketone (fingernail polish removers) but these seem likely to be the next 
step for me unless someone has something brilliant for me to try.

It's not that I'm unwilling to expend effort but why reinvent wheels if 
there is something simple.

TIA,


Bob
*****
  Robert L. Myers   304-574-2372
  Rt. 4, Box 57,  Fayetteville, WV 25840 USA   WV tag Q SHIP
  '95 urS6  Cashmere Grey - der Wunderwagen    ICQ 22170244
  http://www.cob-net.org/church/pvcob.htm
*****

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Subject: patina solder discolorization
Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 16:58:58 -0600
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I have made two 6 sided lamps using copper foil and black patina on the =
solder when finished.  I noticed that one of my lamps has what appears =
as about 2 dozen light/white (almost like a water stain) 1/8 inch =
circles on some of the dark patina joints.  Anyone know what may have =
caused this or how I can fix it and prevent it next time?

Thanks.
Scott Strain
Arlington, Texas

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<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I have made two 6 sided lamps using =
copper foil=20
and&nbsp;black patina on the solder when finished.&nbsp; I noticed that =
one of=20
my lamps has what appears as about 2 dozen light/white (almost like a =
water=20
stain) 1/8 inch circles on some of the dark patina joints.&nbsp; Anyone =
know=20
what may have caused this or how I can fix it and prevent it next=20
time?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Thanks.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Scott Strain</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Arlington, =
Texas</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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Subject: Custom Lamp Question
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Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 15:38:56 EST
Subject: Custom Lamp
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Hi Everyone.  I am hoping that someone out there will be able to help me with 
a question.  I am working on a custom lamp shade that I am having trouble 
getting together.  Because the lamp has ALOT of odd shaped pieces, I am 
having trouble trying to set it up to tack solder the seams.  I have thought 
about taping the glass together, but because of all the odd shapes, I would 
almost need to tape EVERYWHERE on the glass, and have nowhere to solder.  Can 
anyone help me with this dilemma.  I have also thought about a lamp form, but 
there are none out there to fit the shape of my lamp.   Please help!!!!!

Thanks,
Susie @ Deep Woods & Glass

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">Hi Everyone.&nbsp; I am hoping that someone out there will be able to help me with a question.&nbsp; I am working on a custom lamp shade that I am having trouble getting together.&nbsp; Because the lamp has ALOT of odd shaped pieces, I am having trouble trying to set it up to tack solder the seams.&nbsp; I have thought about taping the glass together, but because of all the odd shapes, I would almost need to tape EVERYWHERE on the glass, and have nowhere to solder.&nbsp; Can anyone help me with this dilemma.&nbsp; I have also thought about a lamp form, but there are none out there to fit the shape of my lamp.&nbsp;&nbsp; Please help!!!!!<BR>
<BR>
Thanks,<BR>
Susie @ Deep Woods &amp; Glass</FONT></HTML>

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From owner-glass Tue Jan 28 18:21:19 2003
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From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
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Subject: bungi: Winder Cleaning
Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 20:52:23 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com>
Precedence: bulk

Message text written by Robert Myers
>I have (almost) completed my first panel.  Final cleaning remains.  I ha=
ve

been plugging away at removing some excess Inland Cement using a variety =
of

tools (a toothpick, a horseshoe nail, my fingernail, Windex and a rag, a =

dry rag, etc.) and have removed a LOT.  This technique, or lack thereof, =

seems to be working pretty well on the smooth surfaces but there remain =

"stains" on the rough surface of some gluechip glass.  Are there any =

suggestions as to how to accomplish this without extreme effort?<

Get yourself a nylon bristle brush.  Put some whiting on the gluechip gla=
ss
and scrub with the nylon hard-bristle brush.  Works every time.  Clean up=

around the lead lines with a chopstick sharpened in a pencil sharpener.

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
Denton, TX
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From owner-glass Tue Jan 28 19:04:40 2003
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Subject: bungi: Custom Lamp Question
Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 21:20:20 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com>
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Message text written by INTERNET:Zeusluvr@aol.com
>Hi Everyone.  I am hoping that someone out there will be able to help me=

with =

a question.  I am working on a custom lamp shade that I am having trouble=
 =

getting together.  Because the lamp has ALOT of odd shaped pieces, I am =

having trouble trying to set it up to tack solder the seams.  I have
thought =

about taping the glass together, but because of all the odd shapes, I wou=
ld

almost need to tape EVERYWHERE on the glass, and have nowhere to solder. =

Can =

anyone help me with this dilemma.  I have also thought about a lamp form,=

but =

there are none out there to fit the shape of my lamp.   Please help!!!!!<=


What arre you building?  A panel lampshade, or a formed lampshade?  Sound=
s
like you're attempting to build a formed lampshade without using a form. =

If so, this is not going to work.  Go ahead and purchase or rent a form
which is close to the shape you desire.  Otherwise, purchase a block of
solid styrofoam and carve out a form.  Then pin (yes...use straight pins)=

the pieces to the form.  No tape required.  The straight pins will hold t=
he
pieces to the form.  Tack solder as much as you can, removing pins as you=

go.  You might want to purchase the Joe Porcelli book "The Lampmaking
Handbook" if you are serious about lampshade making.  It has a complete
chapter on making your own form & pattern.  I've made several lampshades.=
 =

Ask any detailed questions you want.

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
Denton, TX
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 29 02:36:34 2003
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Subject: Bungi: Custom Lamp Question
Date: Wed, 29 Jan 2003 04:36:42 -0500
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This message is in MIME format.  Since your mail reader does not understand
this format, some or all of this message may not be legible.

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I haven't encountered the problem that you are having so take this with a
grain of salt.  You mentioned taping them together, how about if you
placed those pesky odd pieces together on clear contact paper to hold
them until you got the front soldered? Unless the form that you are
working on is curved, this might work, since you could drape it slightly
as well.  If the shape is curved, cutting slits in the paper so that it
begins to assume a curved shape might also work.  Just a thought, since I
haven't tried this.

BTW, it would help if you would put Bungi in the subject line, since
after writing this I did not know where to send it to.  I belong on
several glass related lists.
Peggy K. 


"I am working on a custom lamp shade that I am having trouble getting
together.  Because the lamp has ALOT of odd shaped pieces, I am having
trouble trying to set it up to tack solder the seams.  I have thought
about taping the glass together, but because of all the odd shapes, I
would almost need to tape EVERYWHERE on the glass, and have nowhere to
solder.  "
----__JNP_000_4424.3c7f.79fc
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.3314.2100" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY bottomMargin=3D0 leftMargin=3D3 rightMargin=3D3 topMargin=3D0>
<DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT face=3DArial lang=3D0 size=3D2=20
FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF">I haven't encountered the problem that you are having =
so take=20
this with a grain of salt.&nbsp; You mentioned taping them together, how =
about=20
if you placed those pesky odd pieces together on clear contact paper to =
hold=20
them until you got the front soldered? Unless the form that you are working=
 on=20
is curved, this might work, since you could drape it slightly as well.&nbsp=
; If=20
the&nbsp;shape is curved, cutting slits in the paper so that it begins to =
assume=20
a curved shape might also work.&nbsp; Just a thought, since&nbsp;I haven't =
tried=20
this.</FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT face=3DArial lang=3D0 size=3D2=20
FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF"></FONT></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT face=3DArial lang=3D0 size=3D2=20
FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF">BTW, it would help if you would put Bungi in the =
subject=20
line, since after writing this I did not know where to send it to.&nbsp; I=
=20
belong on several glass related lists.</FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Peggy K.</FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT face=3DArial lang=3D0 size=3D2=20
FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF"></FONT></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT face=3DArial lang=3D0 size=3D2=20
FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF"></FONT></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT face=3DArial lang=3D0 size=3D2=20
FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF">"I am working on a custom lamp shade that I am having =
trouble=20
getting together.&nbsp; Because the lamp has ALOT of odd shaped pieces, I =
am=20
having trouble trying to set it up to tack solder the seams.&nbsp; I have=20
thought about taping the glass together, but because of all the odd shapes,=
 I=20
would almost need to tape EVERYWHERE on the glass, and have nowhere to=20
solder.&nbsp; "</FONT></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-glass Wed Jan 29 06:51:14 2003
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X-Path: comcast.net!cecnralph
From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@comcast.net>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
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Subject: Re: Winder Cleaning
Date: Wed, 29 Jan 2003 09:08:50 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net>
References: <<5.2.0.9.2.20030128115545.022a2450@mail.charter.net>>
Organization: Grendel Studio
Precedence: bulk

Christie has solved your problem, but I just wanted to add that dental 
tools are a great thing to have for getting at small odd little spots. 
 Hie yourself to almost any flea market of any size, or to a computer 
fair, and somebody is sure to be selling them. - Cec

Robert Myers robert-at-s-cars.org |Bungier/1.0-Allow| wrote:

> Hi Y'all,
>
> More newbie questions:
>
> I have (almost) completed my first panel.  Final cleaning remains.  I 
> have been plugging away at removing some excess Inland Cement using a 
> variety of tools (a toothpick, a horseshoe nail, my fingernail, Windex 
> and a rag, a dry rag, etc.) and have removed a LOT.  This technique, 
> or lack thereof, seems to be working pretty well on the smooth 
> surfaces but there remain "stains" on the rough surface of some 
> gluechip glass.  Are there any suggestions as to how to accomplish 
> this without extreme effort?
>
> I haven't yet tried solvents such as alcohol or acetone or methyl 
> ethyl ketone (fingernail polish removers) but these seem likely to be 
> the next step for me unless someone has something brilliant for me to try.
>
> It's not that I'm unwilling to expend effort but why reinvent wheels 
> if there is something simple.
>
> TIA,
>
>
> Bob
> *****
>  Robert L. Myers   304-574-2372
>  Rt. 4, Box 57,  Fayetteville, WV 25840 USA   WV tag Q SHIP
>  '95 urS6  Cashmere Grey - der Wunderwagen    ICQ 22170244
>  http://www.cob-net.org/church/pvcob.htm
> *****
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>

-- 
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood 
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************


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From owner-glass Wed Jan 29 07:12:27 2003
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Subject: Re: Custom Lamp Question
Date: Wed, 29 Jan 2003 09:22:52 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>>
Organization: Grendel Studio
Precedence: bulk

You can buy some black plastic foam shapes that are specifically meant 
for holding glass at various angles.  A set is not very expensive and is 
reusable.  They are also helpful when making boxes, etc.  There are a 
number of shades for which there are no forms, and these foam things are 
designed to work with them.  There is - or used to be - a yellow plastic 
thingy that has provision for various angles.  This is good for boxes 
etc. but not for larger things like big shades.

As Christie pointed out, use ordinary straight sewing pins with the 
foam.  For the forms, many of them expect you to use bee's wax, but I 
think I've also read about using double stick tape.  With the yellow 
thingy, the glass just is cradled in it. - Cec

Zeusluvr-at-aol.com |Bungier/1.0-Allow| wrote:

>   
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Subject:
> Custom Lamp
> From:
> Zeusluvr@aol.com
> Date:
> Mon, 27 Jan 2003 15:38:56 EST
> To:
> Glass@Bunji.com
>
>
> Hi Everyone.  I am hoping that someone out there will be able to help 
> me with a question.  I am working on a custom lamp shade that I am 
> having trouble getting together.  Because the lamp has ALOT of odd 
> shaped pieces, I am having trouble trying to set it up to tack solder 
> the seams.  I have thought about taping the glass together, but 
> because of all the odd shapes, I would almost need to tape EVERYWHERE 
> on the glass, and have nowhere to solder.  Can anyone help me with 
> this dilemma.  I have also thought about a lamp form, but there are 
> none out there to fit the shape of my lamp.   Please help!!!!!
>
> Thanks,
> Susie @ Deep Woods & Glass


-- 
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood 
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************


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From owner-glass Wed Jan 29 07:26:27 2003
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Subject: Re: patina solder discolorization
Date: Wed, 29 Jan 2003 09:16:21 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@netzero.net>>
Organization: Grendel Studio
Precedence: bulk

What you have is the dreaded whitish oxidation, which probably results 
in not having all the flux cleaned off.  Take a Q-tip and rub those 
areas with flux/patina remover.  Then WASH and RINSE and reapply the 
patina in those areas.  You then might want to protect the patina by 
waxing the glass and metal with liquid (spray) car polish, or use 
Chem-o-Pro (only on the metal) which is specifically meant for the metal 
in stained glass. - Cec

strainsa strainsa-at-netzero.net |Bungier/1.0-Allow| wrote:

> I have made two 6 sided lamps using copper foil and black patina on 
> the solder when finished.  I noticed that one of my lamps has what 
> appears as about 2 dozen light/white (almost like a water stain) 1/8 
> inch circles on some of the dark patina joints.  Anyone know what may 
> have caused this or how I can fix it and prevent it next time?
>  
> Thanks.
> Scott Strain
> Arlington, Texas


-- 
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood 
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************


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Antigen for Exchange found Unknown infected with VIRUS=
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Subject: re: bungi: Winder Cleaning
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 08:54:37 -0500
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Precedence: bulk

Message text written by "Lori J. Mitchell"
>Just a heads up, don't use inland cement in the future, choose another
brand.<

Or better yet, make you own!  All you need is boiled linseed oil,
turpentine and whiting (with optional colorant).

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
Denton, TX
----
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From owner-glass Thu Jan 30 09:41:03 2003
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Subject: re: bungi: Winder Cleaning
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 08:54:37 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com>
Precedence: bulk

Message text written by "Lori J. Mitchell"
>Just a heads up, don't use inland cement in the future, choose another
brand.<

Or better yet, make you own!  All you need is boiled linseed oil,
turpentine and whiting (with optional colorant).

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
Denton, TX
----
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Subject: re: bungi: Winder Cleaning
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 08:54:37 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com>
Precedence: bulk

Message text written by "Lori J. Mitchell"
>Just a heads up, don't use inland cement in the future, choose another
brand.<

Or better yet, make you own!  All you need is boiled linseed oil,
turpentine and whiting (with optional colorant).

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
Denton, TX
----
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From owner-glass Thu Jan 30 12:15:57 2003
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Subject: re: bungi: Winder Cleaning
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 08:54:37 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com>
Precedence: bulk

Message text written by "Lori J. Mitchell"
>Just a heads up, don't use inland cement in the future, choose another
brand.<

Or better yet, make you own!  All you need is boiled linseed oil,
turpentine and whiting (with optional colorant).

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
Denton, TX
----
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From owner-glass Thu Jan 30 12:42:35 2003
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	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28)
X-Path: attibi.com!maryloueveland
From: "Mary Lou Eveland" <maryloueveland@attibi.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
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Subject: RE: bungi: Winder Cleaning
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 13:32:04 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@attibi.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Could you supply the proportions for each?

Thanks,

Mary Lou Eveland

-----Original Message-----
From: Christie A. Wood [mailto:Ensembles@compuserve.com] 
Sent: Thursday, January 30, 2003 7:55 AM
To: Bungi
Subject: re: bungi: Winder Cleaning


Message text written by "Lori J. Mitchell"
>Just a heads up, don't use inland cement in the future, choose another
brand.<

Or better yet, make you own!  All you need is boiled linseed oil,
turpentine and whiting (with optional colorant).

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
Denton, TX
----
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To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

----
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From owner-glass Thu Jan 30 13:30:26 2003
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From: "Mary Lou Eveland" <maryloueveland@attibi.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
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Subject: RE: bungi: Winder Cleaning
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 13:32:04 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@attibi.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com>>>
Precedence: bulk

Could you supply the proportions for each?

Thanks,

Mary Lou Eveland

-----Original Message-----
From: Christie A. Wood [mailto:Ensembles@compuserve.com] 
Sent: Thursday, January 30, 2003 7:55 AM
To: Bungi
Subject: re: bungi: Winder Cleaning


Message text written by "Lori J. Mitchell"
>Just a heads up, don't use inland cement in the future, choose another
brand.<

Or better yet, make you own!  All you need is boiled linseed oil,
turpentine and whiting (with optional colorant).

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
Denton, TX
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

----
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From owner-glass Thu Jan 30 13:49:43 2003
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From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
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Subject: re: bungi: Winder Cleaning
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 08:54:37 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com>
Precedence: bulk

Message text written by "Lori J. Mitchell"
>Just a heads up, don't use inland cement in the future, choose another
brand.<

Or better yet, make you own!  All you need is boiled linseed oil,
turpentine and whiting (with optional colorant).

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
Denton, TX
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

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From owner-glass Thu Jan 30 14:22:03 2003
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From: "Mary Lou Eveland" <maryloueveland@attibi.com>
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Subject: RE: bungi: Winder Cleaning
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 13:32:04 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@attibi.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com>>>>
Precedence: bulk

Could you supply the proportions for each?

Thanks,

Mary Lou Eveland

-----Original Message-----
From: Christie A. Wood [mailto:Ensembles@compuserve.com] 
Sent: Thursday, January 30, 2003 7:55 AM
To: Bungi
Subject: re: bungi: Winder Cleaning


Message text written by "Lori J. Mitchell"
>Just a heads up, don't use inland cement in the future, choose another
brand.<

Or better yet, make you own!  All you need is boiled linseed oil,
turpentine and whiting (with optional colorant).

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
Denton, TX
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

----
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From owner-glass Thu Jan 30 15:43:00 2003
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Subject: re: bungi: Winder Cleaning
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 08:54:37 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com>
Precedence: bulk

Message text written by "Lori J. Mitchell"
>Just a heads up, don't use inland cement in the future, choose another
brand.<

Or better yet, make you own!  All you need is boiled linseed oil,
turpentine and whiting (with optional colorant).

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
Denton, TX
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

________________________________________________________________________
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From owner-glass Thu Jan 30 15:59:04 2003
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From: "Mary Lou Eveland" <maryloueveland@attibi.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
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Subject: RE: bungi: Winder Cleaning
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 13:32:04 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@attibi.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com>>>>>
Precedence: bulk

Could you supply the proportions for each?

Thanks,

Mary Lou Eveland

-----Original Message-----
From: Christie A. Wood [mailto:Ensembles@compuserve.com] 
Sent: Thursday, January 30, 2003 7:55 AM
To: Bungi
Subject: re: bungi: Winder Cleaning


Message text written by "Lori J. Mitchell"
>Just a heads up, don't use inland cement in the future, choose another
brand.<

Or better yet, make you own!  All you need is boiled linseed oil,
turpentine and whiting (with optional colorant).

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
Denton, TX
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

----
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To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

________________________________________________________________________
This e-mail has been scanned for all viruses by Star Internet. The
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From owner-glass Thu Jan 30 17:11:38 2003
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Received: by daver.bungi.com
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	for rglass-42; Thu, 30 Jan 2003 16:20:09 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28)
X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Mime-Version: 1.0
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Subject: re: bungi: Winder Cleaning
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 08:54:37 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com>
Precedence: bulk

Message text written by "Lori J. Mitchell"
>Just a heads up, don't use inland cement in the future, choose another
brand.<

Or better yet, make you own!  All you need is boiled linseed oil,
turpentine and whiting (with optional colorant).

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
Denton, TX
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From owner-glass Thu Jan 30 17:11:44 2003
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m18eP4e-00009ka@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Thu, 30 Jan 2003 16:30:28 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28)
X-Path: attibi.com!maryloueveland
From: "Mary Lou Eveland" <maryloueveland@attibi.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Subject: RE: bungi: Winder Cleaning
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 13:32:04 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@attibi.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com>>>>>>
Precedence: bulk

Could you supply the proportions for each?

Thanks,

Mary Lou Eveland

-----Original Message-----
From: Christie A. Wood [mailto:Ensembles@compuserve.com] 
Sent: Thursday, January 30, 2003 7:55 AM
To: Bungi
Subject: re: bungi: Winder Cleaning


Message text written by "Lori J. Mitchell"
>Just a heads up, don't use inland cement in the future, choose another
brand.<

Or better yet, make you own!  All you need is boiled linseed oil,
turpentine and whiting (with optional colorant).

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
Denton, TX
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From owner-glass Thu Jan 30 17:12:11 2003
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	for rglass-42; Thu, 30 Jan 2003 16:47:08 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28)
X-Path: yahoo.com!texpenguin
From: Sherry Greer <texpenguin@yahoo.com>
To: GlassList <glass@bungi.com>
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: multiple bungi emails
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 16:44:13 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>
Precedence: bulk

Hey there, Bungi is sending 4 or 5 copies of some
people's emails.  Can anyone out there fix it? 
It's clogging up my email box!  
Sherry

=====
Sherry Greer
Lady Penguinevere Designs
texpenguin@tsgreer.com

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From owner-glass Thu Jan 30 18:12:01 2003
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
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	id <m18eQCS-0000EXa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Thu, 30 Jan 2003 17:42:36 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28)
X-Path: yahoo.com!texpenguin
From: Sherry Greer <texpenguin@yahoo.com>
To: GlassList <glass@bungi.com>
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: multiple bungi emails
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 16:44:13 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>
Precedence: bulk

Hey there, Bungi is sending 4 or 5 copies of some
people's emails.  Can anyone out there fix it? 
It's clogging up my email box!  
Sherry

=====
Sherry Greer
Lady Penguinevere Designs
texpenguin@tsgreer.com

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From owner-glass Thu Jan 30 18:12:07 2003
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Received: by daver.bungi.com
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	for rglass-42; Thu, 30 Jan 2003 17:46:33 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28)
X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
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	 charset=ISO-8859-1
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Subject: re: bungi: Winder Cleaning
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 08:54:37 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com>
Precedence: bulk

Message text written by "Lori J. Mitchell"
>Just a heads up, don't use inland cement in the future, choose another
brand.<

Or better yet, make you own!  All you need is boiled linseed oil,
turpentine and whiting (with optional colorant).

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
Denton, TX
----
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From owner-glass Thu Jan 30 19:12:48 2003
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m18eRAQ-0000Eca@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Thu, 30 Jan 2003 18:44:34 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28)
X-Path: yahoo.com!texpenguin
From: Sherry Greer <texpenguin@yahoo.com>
To: GlassList <glass@bungi.com>
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: multiple bungi emails
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 16:44:13 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>
Precedence: bulk

Hey there, Bungi is sending 4 or 5 copies of some
people's emails.  Can anyone out there fix it? 
It's clogging up my email box!  
Sherry

=====
Sherry Greer
Lady Penguinevere Designs
texpenguin@tsgreer.com

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From owner-glass Thu Jan 30 19:13:05 2003
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Received: by daver.bungi.com
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	for rglass-42; Thu, 30 Jan 2003 18:46:46 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28)
X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Mime-Version: 1.0
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	 charset=ISO-8859-1
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Subject: re: bungi: Winder Cleaning
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 08:54:37 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com>
Precedence: bulk

Message text written by "Lori J. Mitchell"
>Just a heads up, don't use inland cement in the future, choose another
brand.<

Or better yet, make you own!  All you need is boiled linseed oil,
turpentine and whiting (with optional colorant).

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
Denton, TX
----
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obe,=20visit:
http://www.star.net.uk
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This=20e-mail=20has=20been=20scanned=20for=20all=20viruses=20by=20Star=20I=
nternet.=20The
service=20is=20powered=20by=20MessageLabs.=20For=20more=20information=20on=
=20a=20proactive
anti-virus=20service=20working=20around=20the=20clock,=20around=20the=20gl=
obe,=20visit:
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This=20e-mail=20has=20been=20scanned=20for=20all=20viruses=20by=20Star=20I=
nternet.=20The
service=20is=20powered=20by=20MessageLabs.=20For=20more=20information=20on=
=20a=20proactive
anti-virus=20service=20working=20around=20the=20clock,=20around=20the=20gl=
obe,=20visit:
http://www.star.net.uk
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From owner-glass Fri Jan 31 16:41:20 2003
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	via smail with stdio
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	for rglass-42; Fri, 31 Jan 2003 16:02:38 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28)
X-Path: sandblaze.com!slandon
From: "Sherry Landon" <slandon@sandblaze.com>
To: "'Sherry Greer'" <texpenguin@yahoo.com>,
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Subject: RE: multiple bungi emails
Date: Fri, 31 Jan 2003 18:56:08 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@sandblaze.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>>
Organization: Sandblaze Systems Inc
Precedence: bulk

ME TOO. Thanks much for the sanity check, thought it might be just me
and a pc virus or something.

Sherry L.

-----Original Message-----
From: Sherry Greer [mailto:texpenguin@yahoo.com] 
Sent: Thursday, January 30, 2003 7:44 PM
To: GlassList
Subject: multiple bungi emails

Hey there, Bungi is sending 4 or 5 copies of some
people's emails.  Can anyone out there fix it? 
It's clogging up my email box!  
Sherry

=====
Sherry Greer
Lady Penguinevere Designs
texpenguin@tsgreer.com

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From owner-glass Fri Jan 31 16:53:42 2003
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X-Path: netzero.net!strainsa
From: "strainsa" <strainsa@netzero.net>
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Subject: small window using foil
Date: Fri, 31 Jan 2003 18:02:32 -0600
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_001F_01C2C952.ED04A100
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I have primarily been making lamps and small suncatchers.  I was =
thinking about making a 2 foot circular window for my daughter and was =
wondering if anyone has ever done something of this size using copper =
foil.  What width foil would be the best?  Would I still have to use =
cement/grout?  Would the window be strong enough using the foil instead =
of lead came?  Any ideas or hints would be appreciated.  My daughter is =
a horse lover so I am considering a nice horse head picture.

------=_NextPart_000_001F_01C2C952.ED04A100
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2919.6307" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I have primarily been making lamps and =
small=20
suncatchers.&nbsp; I was thinking about making a 2 foot circular window =
for my=20
daughter and was wondering if anyone has ever done something of this =
size using=20
copper foil.&nbsp; What width foil would be the best?&nbsp; Would I =
still have=20
to use cement/grout?&nbsp; Would the window be strong enough using the =
foil=20
instead of lead came?&nbsp; Any ideas or hints would be =
appreciated.&nbsp; My=20
daughter is a horse lover so I am considering a nice horse head=20
picture.</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-glass Fri Jan 31 22:15:54 2003
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From: suzanne albright <suzi1025@ptdprolog.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
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Subject: Re: small window using foil
Date: Sat, 01 Feb 2003 00:56:15 -0500
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> This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand
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Yes, I have done this.

Use whatever width of foil works for the thickness of the glass you are
using. No grout or cement with copper foil. Yes, the window will be strong
enough if you have enough solder lines crossing each other (a horse
certainly would) and if you edge it all the way around in either zinc,
copper or lead. (1/8" is bendable). Good luck, have fun.

Suzanne

on 1/31/03 7:02 PM, strainsa at strainsa@netzero.net wrote:

I have primarily been making lamps and small suncatchers.  I was thinking
about making a 2 foot circular window for my daughter and was wondering if
anyone has ever done something of this size using copper foil.  What width
foil would be the best?  Would I still have to use cement/grout?  Would the
window be strong enough using the foil instead of lead came?  Any ideas or
hints would be appreciated.  My daughter is a horse lover so I am
considering a nice horse head picture.




--MS_Mac_OE_3126905776_973388_MIME_Part
Content-type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-transfer-encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML>
<HEAD>
<TITLE>Re: small window using foil</TITLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY>
Yes, I have done this.<BR>
<BR>
Use whatever width of foil works for the thickness of the glass you are usi=
ng. No grout or cement with copper foil. Yes, the window will be strong enou=
gh if you have enough solder lines crossing each other (a horse certainly wo=
uld) and if you edge it all the way around in either zinc, copper or lead. (=
1/8&quot; is bendable). Good luck, have fun.<BR>
<BR>
Suzanne<BR>
<BR>
on 1/31/03 7:02 PM, strainsa at strainsa@netzero.net wrote:<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE><FONT SIZE=3D"2"><FONT FACE=3D"Arial">I have primarily been making =
lamps and small suncatchers. &nbsp;I was thinking about making a 2 foot circ=
ular window for my daughter and was wondering if anyone has ever done someth=
ing of this size using copper foil. &nbsp;What width foil would be the best?=
 &nbsp;Would I still have to use cement/grout? &nbsp;Would the window be str=
ong enough using the foil instead of lead came? &nbsp;Any ideas or hints wou=
ld be appreciated. &nbsp;My daughter is a horse lover so I am considering a =
nice horse head picture.<BR>
</FONT></FONT><BR>
</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
</BODY>
</HTML>


--MS_Mac_OE_3126905776_973388_MIME_Part--

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