From owner-glass Mon Jul  1 06:43:22 2002
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From: "john & kay" <john@horsfieldwatford.demon.co.uk>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Lighting panels
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 14:27:37 +0100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@horsfieldwatford.demon.co.uk>
Precedence: bulk

Hi
Can anyone out there help?.

I am making some small panels in inches 4'x 4' 6'x6' and 8'x8'. I have some
deep frames and wonder in any knows how I could insert back lighting.

Hope this makes sence.

By the way is their an index of the Archives?

Good wishes from Watford UK

John Horsfield
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From owner-glass Mon Jul  1 08:46:51 2002
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Subject: lamp repair
Date: Mon, 01 Jul 2002 08:22:53 -0700
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I have been asked about repairing a stained glass lamp. I have done very 
few repairs and am somewhat hesitant to take this on. I have been told it's 
an eight sided lamp with just a couple of pieces broken on one of the 
panels. Do I remove the one side and then repair the pieces and then 
reassemble the lamp? It seems like a lot of work to me. Any ideas? 
Lorley/in Phoenix

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From owner-glass Mon Jul  1 10:16:38 2002
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Subject: Re: Concrete stepping stones
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 12:58:52 EDT
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Regarding stepping stones.  I have made a few and also teach a class on 
making them.  Mine have never crumbled using both cement,when I first started 
and diamondcrete.  The problem I have had is the glass has cracked in almost 
all of the stones. Its not real noticable except to me.. I live in Michigan 
and put the stones in the garage over the winter.

My husband and I are going to glass visions.  It will be our 4th year.

Maggie

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>Regarding stepping stones. &nbsp;I have made a few and also teach a class on making them. &nbsp;Mine have never crumbled using both cement,when I first started and diamondcrete. &nbsp;The problem I have had is the glass has cracked in almost all of the stones. Its not real noticable except to me.. I live in Michigan and put the stones in the garage over the winter.
<BR>
<BR>My husband and I are going to glass visions. &nbsp;It will be our 4th year.
<BR>
<BR>Maggie</FONT></HTML>

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From owner-glass Tue Jul  2 12:02:12 2002
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From: "Family Account" <shad.nai@rcn.com>
To: "Bungi Glass Group" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Concrete stepping stones
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2002 14:46:05 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@rcn.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@pro>>
Precedence: bulk

We've had luck using RapidSet, which we buy from a conrete dealer.  We've
had stones out several years in Connecticut winters, which have a lot of
freezing and thawing.

John and I will be at Glass Visions on Saturday.

Dorothy
----- Original Message -----
From: "J. Dahlin" <jdahlin@pro-ns.net>
To: "Bungi Glass Group" <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 30, 2002 9:52 PM
Subject: Concrete stepping stones


> Hi Suzanne:
>
> I just saw your message this evening.  We got a new computer a couple of
> weeks ago and now both computers get e-mal messages depending upon which
> one of us checks messages.  Joe got this one.
>
> I had some back luck with my stepping stones this year.  I left them
> outside over winter and we had an EXTREMELY mild winter for Minnesota.
> All of the glass came off two of the stones.  Of course I can redo them,
> but it was disappointing to say the least.  I had not used  a sealant,
> as I had been told you should use one.  There are lots of theories going
> around.  The very first stone that I had done (in a class) lost one
> piece of glass.  I intent to try to glue that one back down one of these
> days.
>
> I realize Minnesota is not the same as Oklahoma, but I don't think I
> will leave my stones outside and exposed to the elments here again.
> Toward the end of the time that I was doing the stepping stones (it has
> been a couple of years) I tried using the cement with the fiberglass
> fibers in it.  Those stones did not have any problems.
>
> By the way, Suzanne, are you going to Glass Visions this year?
>
>
>
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>


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From owner-glass Tue Jul  2 12:17:41 2002
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From: "Peggy W. Johnsen" <edupjohn@slonet.org>
To: john & kay <john@horsfieldwatford.demon.co.uk>
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Lighting panels
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2002 11:30:07 -0700 (PDT)
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References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@horsfieldwatford.demon.co.uk>>
Precedence: bulk

John:  Get the bright sticks or install fluorescent lighting around the
back of the frame and enclose it.  Allow room to hang it up by a wall
outlet so you can plug it in.  PJ


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From owner-glass Tue Jul  2 12:33:17 2002
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From: "Peggy W. Johnsen" <edupjohn@slonet.org>
To: Lorley Oneyear <lorley@cox.net>
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: lamp repair
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2002 11:32:26 -0700 (PDT)
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Precedence: bulk

Lorley:  Is your lamp copper foiled or lead came.  If copper foil, remove
the glass, recut and replace. It is not likely you will need to
disassemble the panels to do this.  If lead came, use your exacto knife
and peel back the lead, remove and replace the glass and then
resolder.  Should be a fairly easy task.  Good Luck.  PJ


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From owner-glass Tue Jul  2 13:19:30 2002
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From: "Suzanne Gunn" <gunnx4@cox.net>
To: "J. Dahlin" <jdahlin@pro-ns.net>,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Concrete stepping stones
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2002 14:53:42 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@cox.net>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@pro>>
Organization: glsasdancer
Precedence: bulk

Howdy Joanne...

I forgot to mention that I also used the fiberglass fibers in mine.  I guess
in all of them.  Can't remember.  I haven't made a stone in at least 2
years.  I had fun doing them...but don't have much desire to make any more.
lol.

So your glass *popped* out?  That seems like an odd thing to happen.  Seems
like it would have cracked or the stone would have cracked...but the glass
lifted out?  Did I understand that right?

I probably won't be going to glass visions this year, as I have a more
conventional job now and don't think I'll have the time.  I have a new job
as a librarian! (surprise)  I quit at the studio last August.  I LOVE my
job. This is my all time favorite job ever!
It's an amazing feeling to have a job I enjoy so much! :o)

Then again...you never know.  If it turns out I can go, I'll definitely let
you know.

Right now I'm working in the outreach services department on the book
mobile.  I'm having a blast!

Supposedly, I still teach at the local jr college, but my last 4 classes
were cancelled due to not enough students being enrolled.

Have a great holiday. It's good to hear from you, and I hope you are
healthy.

Suzanne

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From owner-glass Tue Jul  2 15:23:21 2002
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Subject: Saws
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2002 17:26:23 EDT
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Hey Y'all,
I'm new to this web stuff, but am excited I found this place. I need all the 
help I can get!  I need to buy a saw and don't know which one will serve my 
needs.  I want to be able to cut shells as well as glass and anything else 
that gets in my way!

Thanks
Kathy
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From owner-glass Tue Jul  2 15:56:13 2002
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From: "Thor" <thor@stny.rr.com>
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Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: saws
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2002 18:51:04 -0400
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0044_01C221F9.6AAD22A0
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I strongly recomend the Taurus ring saw
it  should  do you proud
James

Whispering Hills Studio

------=_NextPart_000_0044_01C221F9.6AAD22A0
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2600.0" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D4>I strongly recomend the Taurus ring=20
saw</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D4>it&nbsp; should&nbsp; do you =
proud</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D4>James</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D4></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D4>Whispering Hills =
Studio</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-glass Tue Jul  2 16:56:56 2002
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X-Path: compu-type.net!joanne
From: "JoAnne Vogt" <joanne@compu-type.net>
To: "Family Account" <shad.nai@rcn.com>,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Concrete stepping stones
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2002 18:32:24 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@compu>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@rcn.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Hi,
Is RapidSet sorta like Diamondcrete?
Does it have to be as thick as regular concrete?
Do you use RapidSet instead of concrete/morter mix?

I've had trouble with glass lifting here in St.Louis.

The only thing I had thought about was perhaps my concrete was old...

Instead of chicken wire, I use the net taping drywallers use to tape seams.

JoAnne



----- Original Message -----
From: "Family Account" <shad.nai@rcn.com>
To: "Bungi Glass Group" <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 02, 2002 1:46 PM
Subject: Re: Concrete stepping stones


> We've had luck using RapidSet, which we buy from a conrete dealer.  We've
> had stones out several years in Connecticut winters, which have a lot of
> freezing and thawing.
>
> John and I will be at Glass Visions on Saturday.
>
> Dorothy
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "J. Dahlin" <jdahlin@pro-ns.net>
> To: "Bungi Glass Group" <glass@bungi.com>
> Sent: Sunday, June 30, 2002 9:52 PM
> Subject: Concrete stepping stones
>
>
> > Hi Suzanne:
> >
> > I just saw your message this evening.  We got a new computer a couple of
> > weeks ago and now both computers get e-mal messages depending upon which
> > one of us checks messages.  Joe got this one.
> >
> > I had some back luck with my stepping stones this year.  I left them
> > outside over winter and we had an EXTREMELY mild winter for Minnesota.
> > All of the glass came off two of the stones.  Of course I can redo them,
> > but it was disappointing to say the least.  I had not used  a sealant,
> > as I had been told you should use one.  There are lots of theories going
> > around.  The very first stone that I had done (in a class) lost one
> > piece of glass.  I intent to try to glue that one back down one of these
> > days.
> >
> > I realize Minnesota is not the same as Oklahoma, but I don't think I
> > will leave my stones outside and exposed to the elments here again.
> > Toward the end of the time that I was doing the stepping stones (it has
> > been a couple of years) I tried using the cement with the fiberglass
> > fibers in it.  Those stones did not have any problems.
> >
> > By the way, Suzanne, are you going to Glass Visions this year?
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> >
>
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

----
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From owner-glass Tue Jul  2 17:59:57 2002
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X-Path: myacc.net!erguy911
From: "Michael" <erguy911@myacc.net>
To: <GR82SK8408@aol.com>, <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Saws
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2002 20:13:44 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@myacc.net>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>>
Precedence: bulk

I'd recomend the Tarus2 Ring saw.  It cuts in any direction and in many
mediums,  I've never regreted buying one.
----- Original Message -----
From: <GR82SK8408@aol.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 02, 2002 5:26 PM
Subject: Saws


> Hey Y'all,
> I'm new to this web stuff, but am excited I found this place. I need all
the
> help I can get!  I need to buy a saw and don't know which one will serve
my
> needs.  I want to be able to cut shells as well as glass and anything else
> that gets in my way!
>
> Thanks
> Kathy
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
>

----
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From owner-glass Tue Jul  2 18:48:54 2002
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X-Path: northlights.co.uk!toby
From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: "john & kay" <john@horsfieldwatford.demon.co.uk>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Lighting panels
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2002 02:39:07 +0100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@northlights.co.uk>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@horsfieldwatford.demon.co.uk>>
Precedence: bulk

Hello John & Kay in Watford,
You bring an old Bunginian out of "lurkerdom".
Welcome to Bungi!
You are not a million miles away from myself! Go up the M1 to Junction 10,
turn right, pass Luton Airport and then disappear into the small villages in
Hertfordshire and you'll find me RIGHT there.
Elisabeth 'n Toby in UK - except that we have been joined by aMERICa. (He
has PJ as his FIRST Godmother....and then about another 700 other
Godparents! WOW!)

To all my friends Across The Pond.... still with you.... still lurking.
Suzanne... you are doing alright! Will be thinking of you all at Glass
Visions in a week or so!
Have a Margherita or two on me!!! Remember the BUCKET-fulls we had!!!  ;-))
Oh what a wonderful time we had!! Remember me to Charles and Marianne...and
the chipmunks!

Back to back-lighting. John, if you can travel to Stevenage, I will show you
a good example of stained glass back-lighting that I managed to solve. I
made 2 panels for the United Reformed Church at Cutty Lane in Stevenage
which were housed in a hinged wooden cabinet with  diffused light tubes. I
got the inspiration for the lighting from another United Reformed Church in
Watford (located somere in the back-streets of the one-way streets around
the Library). I am about to make another circular stained glass panel with
back-lighting for a residential site in Perry Green (near Much Hadham in
Hertfordshire. The place where Henry More lived and worked) It's a 2-panel
project in total; one semi-circle for a little "lean-to conservatory"
(costing a mere £75,000!) - the other a back-lit circular panel in the main
House. Both to depict "The Tree of Life". In this case I have chosen to
design an old gnarled pear tree. The "bespoke Architect"
(ha-ha-ha-ha-chhoooo!!!!) and I are just now discussing the back-lighting of
the circular panel. The builder will probably screw it up (they always do),
but I do try. I have very good guidance from my ex-husband who is a retired
BBC TV studio-bod. He is now the shining light of the local amateur dramatic
 theatres (in his old age).
I'll be delighted to share my experience and (coached and helped) knowledge
about back-lighting, if I can.

By the way folks; the next TWO panels of my Water Scape series are now
installed, UP and visible on my web-site!     4 Done.....THREE more to go!
Have a look on my NEW web-site www.northlights/co.uk
The old web-site is still running in parallel.... but will be phased out
eventually.

Mary (Maruca) and Jose.... I will e-mail you asap. I know you will read
this. Beds ready and waiting.

For all of you going to Glass Visions. Make sure you post blow-by-blow
accounts of every hour, every day and fill me in. Lecture notes, new things,
new toys, new people, OLD FRIENDS!!! Where is Patrick??
.....and don't forget THE MARGHERITAS!!

Elisabeth 'n Toby in UK.... hmmmm.. 'n Meric


> Hi
> Can anyone out there help?.
>
> I am making some small panels in inches 4'x 4' 6'x6' and 8'x8'. I have
some
> deep frames and wonder in any knows how I could insert back lighting.
>
> Hope this makes sence.
>
> By the way is their an index of the Archives?
>
> Good wishes from Watford UK
>
> John Horsfield
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>

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From owner-glass Tue Jul  2 20:21:42 2002
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X-Path: hotmail.com!woodwizz2
From: "Ron Ruffner" <woodwizz2@hotmail.com>
To: GR82SK8408@aol.com, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
Subject: Re: Saws
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 2002 21:46:31 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@hotmail.com>
Precedence: bulk

Kathy
I got the Taurus II ring saw but compared to all of my woodworking equipment 
it is very poorly designed and built.
Ron


>From: GR82SK8408@aol.com
>To: glass@bungi.com
>Subject: Saws
>Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2002 17:26:23 EDT
>
>Hey Y'all,
>I'm new to this web stuff, but am excited I found this place. I need all 
>the
>help I can get!  I need to buy a saw and don't know which one will serve my
>needs.  I want to be able to cut shells as well as glass and anything else
>that gets in my way!
>
>Thanks
>Kathy
>----
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From owner-glass Wed Jul  3 07:14:50 2002
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X-Path: northlights.co.uk!toby
From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: web-site
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2002 14:53:50 +0100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@northlights.co.uk>
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_003A_01C222A1.7153EDC0
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Oooops!
Sorry folks,
my new web-site should read
www.northlights.co.uk A silly /  crept in there somewhere  :-(

Elisabeth 'n Toby in UK

------=_NextPart_000_003A_01C222A1.7153EDC0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3500" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Oooops!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Sorry folks,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>my new web-site should =
read</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"http://www.northlights.co.uk">www.northlights.co.uk</A>&nbsp;A =
silly=20
/&nbsp; crept in there somewhere&nbsp; :-(</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Elisabeth 'n Toby in =
UK</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_003A_01C222A1.7153EDC0--

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From owner-glass Wed Jul  3 15:33:03 2002
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X-Path: rcn.com!shad.nai
From: "Family Account" <shad.nai@rcn.com>
To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: RapidSet
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2002 18:02:24 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@rcn.com>
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0017_01C222BB.C8CB7180
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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My daughter needed the phone line and I had to rush.  A couple more =
thangs.

We get RapidSet at a concrete dealer.  It's not available elsewhere.

The dealer has concrete colorants, but they are pretty expensive, =
otherwise it looks like...concrete.

We don't seal the stones.

We've had maybe two pieces of glass crack, none lift. =20

We don't make many stonesnow, but did for a while.  They were a pain to =
lug to craft fairs and are no longer the novelty they were.

Dorothy



------=_NextPart_000_0017_01C222BB.C8CB7180
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2600.0" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>My daughter needed the phone line and I =
had to=20
rush.&nbsp; A couple more thangs.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>We get RapidSet at a concrete =
dealer.&nbsp; It's=20
not available elsewhere.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>The dealer has concrete colorants, but =
they are=20
pretty expensive, otherwise it looks like...concrete.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>We don't seal the stones.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>We've had maybe two pieces of glass =
crack, none=20
lift.&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>We don't make many stonesnow, but did =
for a=20
while.&nbsp; They were a pain to lug to craft fairs and are no longer =
the=20
novelty they were.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Dorothy</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0017_01C222BB.C8CB7180--


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From owner-glass Wed Jul  3 16:02:24 2002
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X-Path: rcn.com!shad.nai
From: "Family Account" <shad.nai@rcn.com>
To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Concrete stepping stones
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2002 17:56:57 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@rcn.com>
References: <<002801c22221$8b603b40$7a8bd9c7@i6b2r9>>
Precedence: bulk


----- Original Message -----
From: "JoAnne Vogt" <joanne@compu-type.net>
To: "Family Account" <shad.nai@rcn.com>; <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 02, 2002 7:32 PM
Subject: Re: Concrete stepping stones


> Hi,
> Is RapidSet sorta like Diamondcrete?

Not at all.  It's a regular concrete (and they also make a mortar) product.
It has low water absorbancy, dries quickly (watch out in warm weather!), and
is used for road and bridge repair.  Because of the low water absorbancy, it
does not expand and contract the way regular concrete does, thus glass is
not likely to pop out.

> Does it have to be as thick as regular concrete?

It is regular concrete.  We mix the concrete part sort of to the consistency
of oatmeal, the mortar to cream of wheat consistency.  We use fencing wire
between the two layers.

> Do you use RapidSet instead of concrete/morter mix?
>
> I've had trouble with glass lifting here in St.Louis.
>
> The only thing I had thought about was perhaps my concrete was old...
>
> Instead of chicken wire, I use the net taping drywallers use to tape
seams.
>
> JoAnne
>
>
>



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From owner-glass Thu Jul  4 10:19:09 2002
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From: "Family Account" <shad.nai@rcn.com>
To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Apologies for MIME
Date: Thu, 4 Jul 2002 12:56:19 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@rcn.com>
Precedence: bulk

My husband recently downloaded upgrades to IE and Express and I didn't
realize that I was sending in MIME until today, so sorry about that.  This
should be plain text.

Meanwhile, have a happy 4th, those of you in the USA.  Those of us in the
heat parched parts of the country...stay cool!

Dorothy


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From owner-glass Fri Jul  5 11:33:32 2002
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X-Path: juno.com!pkinnetz
From: Peggy L Kinnetz <pkinnetz@juno.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: Water Scapes
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2002 12:59:12 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@juno.com>
Precedence: bulk

Elizabeth,
 I was able to get to your website; Thanks very much for the link. You do
very lovely work. 

One question: how did you do the little ovals of color in the Raindrops.
Are they ovals layered & glued, or were they already colored like that
before cutting. Or did you use enamels? I couldn't tell from the picture,
but I didn't see any lead lines separating the colors.

Peggy K.
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From owner-glass Fri Jul  5 15:41:48 2002
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X-Path: juno.com!pkinnetz
From: Peggy L Kinnetz <pkinnetz@juno.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: lampblack
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2002 18:45:43 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@juno.com>
Precedence: bulk

I have just finished cementing my first two leaded panels.  Messy work!
but anyway, have a couple of questions: 

1. I had a lot of the cement mixed with whiting left over. It was
suggested that it can be used in the same project, instead of keep adding
additional whiting, which I did, but still have a small pile left ( maybe
1/1/2 cupfuls). how long can this be kept, and more importantly, should I
reuse it?  

2. This time I used Inland cement, but would like to try the recipe that
was posted a little while back, but can't find any company except
Whitmore-Durgin.  Are there other companies who have it?  I can only buy
retail, so the wholesalers are out for me. Is there any advantage to
using the homemade vs commercial?  Has anybody tried the cement from
McGills site?  That looked pretty inexpensive, but since you all have
cautioned not to use Portland cement in any concoction, I'm a little wary
of the commercial stuff, unless its a well-known brand.

Okay, I went over the two questions I thought I had.

Peggy K.
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From owner-glass Mon Jul  8 06:04:42 2002
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X-Path: aol.com!CUngv
From: CUngv@aol.com
To: Glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Bungi:  Help with box hinges.
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 08:19:40 EDT
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>
Precedence: bulk

Hi everyone,

I am working on a box using a wedding invitation sandwiched between two 
pieces of single thickness clear glass in the lid.  I have made several boxes 
before and I find that my greatest difficulty is attaching the "hinge" so 
that it does not eventually pull the foil away from the glass.

The technique I use utilizes brass tubing for the hinge, with the tubing 
attached to the top of bottom back piece, and a piece of brass wire coming 
down from each top back corner, bent to enter each end of the tubing.  I use 
jewelry chain attached from inside the front of the top to the inside of the 
from of the bottom to prevent the box from opening too far.

Sometimes I use 1/4" thick foil where the tubing attaches to the glass, but 
even so, there are times that when the lid is opened, the tubing pulls the 
foil from the glass.

Any suggestions?

Carolyn
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From owner-glass Mon Jul  8 07:07:17 2002
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X-Path: island.net!seaspray
From: "synergy glass" <seaspray@island.net>
To: <CUngv@aol.com>, "Glass Friends" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Bungi:  Help with box hinges.
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 07:02:54 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@island.net>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Hi Carolyn

You need to make sure there are a minimum of 2 seams on your box lid that
intersect with the hinge...that way the tube hinge will be tied into the box
lid and not be relying just on the adhesive of the foil to hold it in place.
It's easy to just add a frame surrounding your invitation...and make sure
the 2 side pieces run the whole width from back to front.   Solder your
chain into the interior vertical seam of the box at the front and embed it
in the underside of the solder line you have created in the top by adding a
frame.

Carol

PS Did you ever get your lamp made?
----- Original Message -----
From: <CUngv@aol.com>
To: <Glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Monday, July 08, 2002 5:19 AM
Subject: Bungi: Help with box hinges.


> Hi everyone,
>
> I am working on a box using a wedding invitation sandwiched between two
> pieces of single thickness clear glass in the lid.  I have made several
boxes
> before and I find that my greatest difficulty is attaching the "hinge" so
> that it does not eventually pull the foil away from the glass.
>
> The technique I use utilizes brass tubing for the hinge, with the tubing
> attached to the top of bottom back piece, and a piece of brass wire coming
> down from each top back corner, bent to enter each end of the tubing.  I
use
> jewelry chain attached from inside the front of the top to the inside of
the
> from of the bottom to prevent the box from opening too far.
>
> Sometimes I use 1/4" thick foil where the tubing attaches to the glass,
but
> even so, there are times that when the lid is opened, the tubing pulls the
> foil from the glass.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Carolyn
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>


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From owner-glass Mon Jul  8 12:14:09 2002
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Stephen Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: "redswanne@mindspring.com" <redswanne@mindspring.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;charset=us-ascii;format=flowed
Subject: Re: Drilling question
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 17:43:19 +0100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@verrier>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@mindspring.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Hollow core drills can be used in a drill press (to avoid bending the 
shaft).
But small (1/8 inch) drill bits are always delicate.

Steve

In message <1970Jan1.000.0@mindspring.com>, "redswanne@mindspring.com" 
<redswanne@mindspring.com> writes
>Can anyone suggest the best way they have found to drill holes directly 
>into small pieces of glass.
>
>I am looking to make some windchimes, as well as run ribbon through 
>some for other purposes, but have yet to find a bit t=
>hat can wistand the abuse.....  Been wet drilling, using my dremel, and 
>the bit doesn't seem to last more than a couple p=
>ieces.....Not a happy prospect since I am looking at drilling about 100.
>
>Thank you
>
>Jean Wagner
>Raleigh, NC
>
>--------------------------------------------------------------------
>mail2web - Check your email from the web at
>http://mail2web.com/ .
>
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-- 

Stephen Richard, Verrier
"Glass on Parade"
Glasgow, Scotland
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From owner-glass Mon Jul  8 12:27:43 2002
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Stephen Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: john & kay <john@horsfieldwatford.demon.co.uk>
Content-Type: text/plain;charset=us-ascii;format=flowed
Subject: Re: Lighting panels
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 18:01:00 +0100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@verrier>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@horsfieldwatford.demon.co.uk>>
Precedence: bulk

John.
My suggestions on lighting are to have a box made and painted matt white 
inside.  Glaze it so the panel is outer most, place 40% transmission 
opalescent acrylic (perspex for us Brits) behind it, then light source, 
and then a matt white backing.  Have some method of accessing the light 
source.

If you use low heat light sources (such as low voltage or fluorescent), 
you will need less ventilation, than if you use incandescent lights.

Alternatively, you  can use 60% transmission opal. perspex as the 
disperser and indirect lighting, such as a spotlight directed at the 
back.


On an index to archives.  A number of us did a lot of work on getting 
index headings for the archives and applied them to the stuff a couple 
of years ago.  I don't know what happened to the material.  Other than 
that I don't think there is anything.

Steve


In message <1970Jan1.000.0@horsfieldwatford.demon.co.uk>, john & kay 
<john@horsfieldwatford.demon.co.uk> writes
>Hi
>Can anyone out there help?.
>
>I am making some small panels in inches 4'x 4' 6'x6' and 8'x8'. I have some
>deep frames and wonder in any knows how I could insert back lighting.
>
>Hope this makes sence.
>
>By the way is their an index of the Archives?
>
>Good wishes from Watford UK
>
>John Horsfield
>----
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-- 

Stephen Richard, Verrier
"Glass on Parade"
Glasgow, Scotland
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From owner-glass Mon Jul  8 12:43:56 2002
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Stephen Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: "Becker, Donna" <DF125031@exchange.DAYTONOH.NCR.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;charset=us-ascii;format=flowed
Subject: Re: Concrete  Colorants
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 17:48:27 +0100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@verrier>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@exchange.DAYTONOH.NCR.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Someone else mentioned using glass as your backing.  Then you can used 
black or grey grout to fill in the spaces and background.
You should use pre-drilled tempered glass or drilled laminated glass as 
the backing glass.
Steve
In message <1970Jan1.000.0@exchange.DAYTONOH.NCR.com>, "Becker, Donna" 
<DF125031@exchange.DAYTONOH.NCR.com> writes
>I mispoke, it's not as much a mosaic as a very large thin stepping stone.
>I'd like the "picture" to be glass and the background to be "cement".  Is
>there a  way to "grout" that large an area?, because I agree, I don't think
>it's practical to hang something that heavy.
>
>Donna Becker
>Senior Consultant II
>donna.becker@chicagoil.ncr.com
>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Spitzer, Charlie [mailto:Charlie.Spitzer@stratus.com]
>Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2002 11:00 AM
>To: Becker, Donna; 'glass@bungi.com'
>Subject: RE: Concrete Colorants
>
>
>a 60 lb bag of concrete is about 1/3 of a cubic foot i think. a 1'x2'x2"
>piece of concrete is 1/3 cubic foot, or 1 bag of cement, or 60 lbs.
>
>why not make your mosaic on a piece of plywood and grout it with standard
>tile grouts?
>
>regards,
>charlie
>cave creek, az
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Becker, Donna [mailto:DF125031@exchange.DAYTONOH.NCR.com]
>> Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2002 8:25 AM
>> To: glass@bungi.com
>> Subject: RE: Concrete Colorants
>>
>>
>> I'm looking forward to trying Suzanne's recipes, but I am
>> going to make
>> mosaic "wall hangings".  Do you think I could use the same
>> recipe - They are
>> about 1 ft. by 2 ft.  Will that be too heavy?  Is there some
>> substance that
>> is lighter?  They are for inside.
>>
>> Donna Becker
>> Senior Consultant II
>> donna.becker@chicagoil.ncr.com
>----
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-- 

Stephen Richard, Verrier
"Glass on Parade"
Glasgow, Scotland
----
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From owner-glass Mon Jul  8 12:53:43 2002
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Stephen Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Peggy L Kinnetz <pkinnetz@juno.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: lampblack
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 18:21:12 +0100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@verrier>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@juno.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Peggy,
        Before using the leftover whiting and cement, sift it through a
fine mesh (like a simple flour sifter) to take out the big lumps.  As
long as you keep it reasonably dry you can use the whiting (now grey).
It will be extended by addition of the new used stuff.

You can use the grey stuff after the first application of new whiting to
the freshly cemented panel.

The blackening that I use is the stuff for keeping fire grates bright
black.  It is carbon black in an oil suspension.  Try any fireplace and
stove shops in your area for supplies.

Any commercially prepared lead light cement should not have Portland
cement in it.

Steve

In message <1970Jan1.000.0@juno.com>, Peggy L Kinnetz
<pkinnetz@juno.com> writes
>I have just finished cementing my first two leaded panels.  Messy work!
>but anyway, have a couple of questions:
>
>1. I had a lot of the cement mixed with whiting left over. It was
>suggested that it can be used in the same project, instead of keep adding
>additional whiting, which I did, but still have a small pile left ( maybe
>1/1/2 cupfuls). how long can this be kept, and more importantly, should I
>reuse it?
>
>2. This time I used Inland cement, but would like to try the recipe that
>was posted a little while back, but can't find any company except
>Whitmore-Durgin.  Are there other companies who have it?  I can only buy
>retail, so the wholesalers are out for me. Is there any advantage to
>using the homemade vs commercial?  Has anybody tried the cement from
>McGills site?  That looked pretty inexpensive, but since you all have
>cautioned not to use Portland cement in any concoction, I'm a little wary
>of the commercial stuff, unless its a well-known brand.
>
>Okay, I went over the two questions I thought I had.
>
>Peggy K.
>----
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-- 

Stephen Richard, Verrier
"Glass on Parade"
Glasgow, Scotland
----
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From owner-glass Mon Jul  8 12:56:33 2002
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Stephen Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: The Glass Garden <TheGlassGarden@comcast.net>
Content-Type: text/plain;charset=us-ascii;format=flowed
Subject: Re: polish edges
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 18:05:31 +0100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@verrier>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net>>
Precedence: bulk

In addition to the replies already posted, you can use a series of 
graded diamond encrusted pads, which will come to a satin finish. If a 
polish is required, there is no substituted to cerium oxide and felt 
wheels.

Steve

In message <1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net>, The Glass Garden 
<TheGlassGarden@comcast.net> writes
>This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
>
>--Boundary_(ID_pXICUs59kKd5VKCN6aTNFw)
>Content-type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
>Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT
>
>Hi All!
>I have a question for you....when you cut and grind glass that is not 
>going to be foiled...how do you polish the edge?  Any chemicals?
>Wendy
>
>--Boundary_(ID_pXICUs59kKd5VKCN6aTNFw)
>Content-type: text/html; charset=iso-8859-1
>Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT
>
><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
><HTML><HEAD>
><META http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1">
><META content="MSHTML 6.00.2716.2200" name=GENERATOR>
><STYLE></STYLE>
></HEAD>
><BODY bgColor=#ffffff>
><DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Hi All!</FONT></DIV>
><DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I have a question for you....when you cut 
>and grind
>glass that is not going to be foiled...how do you polish the edge?&nbsp; Any
>chemicals?</FONT></DIV>
><DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Wendy</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
>
>--Boundary_(ID_pXICUs59kKd5VKCN6aTNFw)--
>----
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-- 

Stephen Richard, Verrier
"Glass on Parade"
Glasgow, Scotland
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From owner-glass Mon Jul  8 14:21:36 2002
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X-Path: stratus.com!Charlie.Spitzer
From: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie.Spitzer@stratus.com>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE: Lighting panels
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 13:46:44 -0700 
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@stratus.com>
Precedence: bulk

if your pieces are that small, then look into using edge lighting products
using leds. that won't work for something larger than your 8"x8" piece
though, as the cost of the leds would be prohibitive. i found a site about 6
months ago that made the lighting strips for small things like glass
trophies, but have lost the link since then.

regards,
charlie
cave creek, az

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Stephen Richard [mailto:s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk]
> Sent: Monday, July 08, 2002 10:01 AM
> To: john & kay
> Subject: Re: Lighting panels
> 
> 
> John.
> My suggestions on lighting are to have a box made and painted 
> matt white 
> inside.  Glaze it so the panel is outer most, place 40% transmission 
> opalescent acrylic (perspex for us Brits) behind it, then 
> light source, 
> and then a matt white backing.  Have some method of accessing 
> the light 
> source.
> 
> If you use low heat light sources (such as low voltage or 
> fluorescent), 
> you will need less ventilation, than if you use incandescent lights.
> 
> Alternatively, you  can use 60% transmission opal. perspex as the 
> disperser and indirect lighting, such as a spotlight directed at the 
> back.
> 
> 
> On an index to archives.  A number of us did a lot of work on getting 
> index headings for the archives and applied them to the stuff 
> a couple 
> of years ago.  I don't know what happened to the material.  
> Other than 
> that I don't think there is anything.
> 
> Steve
> 
> 
> In message <1970Jan1.000.0@horsfieldwatford.demon.co.uk>, john & kay 
> <john@horsfieldwatford.demon.co.uk> writes
> >Hi
> >Can anyone out there help?.
> >
> >I am making some small panels in inches 4'x 4' 6'x6' and 
> 8'x8'. I have some
> >deep frames and wonder in any knows how I could insert back lighting.
> >
> >Hope this makes sence.
> >
> >By the way is their an index of the Archives?
> >
> >Good wishes from Watford UK
> >
> >John Horsfield
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From owner-glass Mon Jul  8 14:51:52 2002
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X-Path: comcast.net!cecnralph
From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@comcast.net>
To: bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
Subject: Re: cement
Date: Mon, 08 Jul 2002 17:20:16 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net>
Organization: Grendel Studio
Precedence: bulk

When doing mosaic tiles, isn't there a mastic that can be used instead 
of concrete?  If so, is it lighter in weight, for an "inside" tile, as 
opposed to "outdoor".  And the color would be...? - Cec

-- 
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood 
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************


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From owner-glass Mon Jul  8 15:21:49 2002
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X-Path: stratus.com!Charlie.Spitzer
From: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie.Spitzer@stratus.com>
To: bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE: cement
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 14:58:23 -0700 
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@stratus.com>
Precedence: bulk

what are you sticking it to? yes, there is a mastic. it's a plastic type
product. the color is white. comes in a tub. look for it in the tile aisle
in home depot. i use it for tiling projects on a vertical surface. for a
horizontal surface, i use thinset.

regards,
charlie
cave creek, az

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Cecily & Ralph Wood [mailto:cecnralph@comcast.net]
> Sent: Monday, July 08, 2002 2:20 PM
> To: bungi Glass
> Subject: Re: cement
> 
> 
> When doing mosaic tiles, isn't there a mastic that can be 
> used instead 
> of concrete?  If so, is it lighter in weight, for an "inside" 
> tile, as 
> opposed to "outdoor".  And the color would be...? - Cec
> 
> -- 
> *********************************************************************
> *  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood 
> *  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
> *********************************************************************
> 
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> 
----
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From owner-glass Mon Jul  8 20:32:42 2002
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X-Path: datasync.com!nts
From: "Nancy Saucier" <nts@datasync.com>
To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: diamond bits for dremel tools
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 22:02:28 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@datasync.com>
Precedence: bulk

There has been some discussion recently as to whether dremel makes diamond
coated bits for drilling holes in glass.  I received a new catalog today
from MicroMark, a company that specializes in small tools for various
crafts.  They carry quite a few diamond-coated accessories for Dremel and
other similar small high speed tools.  These include various drill bits
along with some diamond wheels  and polishing tools that can be used on
glass.  Their web site is www.micromark.com.
Nancy Saucier
Picayune Mississippi

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From owner-glass Mon Jul  8 21:03:14 2002
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X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Bungi: re: lampblack
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 23:22:02 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com>
Precedence: bulk

Message text written by Peggy L Kinnetz
>1. I had a lot of the cement mixed with whiting left over. It was
suggested that it can be used in the same project, instead of keep adding=

additional whiting, which I did, but still have a small pile left ( maybe=

1/1/2 cupfuls). how long can this be kept, and more importantly, should I=

reuse it?  >

old whiting can be reused until it becomes too "clumpy" or too "green/gre=
y"
for you to stand looking at.  reuse at will.  by all means, reuse.

<2. This time I used Inland cement, but would like to try the recipe that=

was posted a little while back, but can't find any company except
Whitmore-Durgin.  Are there other companies who have it?  I can only buy
retail, so the wholesalers are out for me. Is there any advantage to
using the homemade vs commercial?  Has anybody tried the cement from
McGills site?  That looked pretty inexpensive, but since you all have
cautioned not to use Portland cement in any concoction, I'm a little wary=

of the commercial stuff, unless its a well-known brand.<

Goodness...make your own cement.  1 part boiled linseed oil to 1 1/2 part=
s
turpentinel.  That's the 'wet'.  Add whiting until it makes the consisten=
cy
you like.  Add lampblack, if you have it and if you like using it.  That'=
s
it.  Fini. Cheep.   Put in coffee tin with lid and use/make up as necessa=
ry
when necessary.

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles/ArtWorks
Denton, TX
----
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From owner-glass Mon Jul  8 21:11:51 2002
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X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: bungi: re: lamp repair
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 23:21:47 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com>
Precedence: bulk

Message text written by Lorley Oneyear
>I have been asked about repairing a stained glass lamp. I have done very=
 =

few repairs and am somewhat hesitant to take this on. I have been told it=
's

an eight sided lamp with just a couple of pieces broken on one of the =

panels. Do I remove the one side and then repair the pieces and then =

reassemble the lamp? It seems like a lot of work to me. Any ideas? <

Naw.  First make a paper tracing of the piece to be replaced.  This gives=

you the pattern.

Then score, score, score and tap out the bad glass.

Next, unsolder the old solder, removing the old copper foil.  Remember, l=
et
gravity do the work for you...i.e. let the solder drip off.  Turn the
lampshade as necessary to help gravity.  Remove ALL solder that you can. =

Solder lines which have been patina'ed take longer to melt...be patient a=
nd
use lots of flux.

Next, cut out the replacement piece slightly smaller than the
original...you have to fit it back into a space which has minute quantiti=
es
of solder still there.

Tape (front & back) the copper-foiled replacement piece to its neighbors.=


Put lampshade in a box with rags stuffed into it.  Why rags?  Why the box=
? =

So you can position the replacement piece inside the box so that the sold=
er
lines are flat for good, clean soldering on the outside or inside.  Rags
because invariably the solder and/or flux will drip.  Solder replacement
piece on both inside and out.  Patina.

Voila!  You're done.  Easy.

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles/ArtWorks
Denton, TX
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From owner-glass Tue Jul  9 22:51:51 2002
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X-Path: verizon.net!moya.oneal
From: "Moya O'Neal" <moya.oneal@verizon.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Box
Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 00:49:21 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@verizon.net>
Precedence: bulk

Carolyn,
I would cut the top of the box down a little and attach the tube part of the
hinge to the top so that the weight of the top is not constantly pulling the
tape on the top.  Just reverse your hinge pieces (tube on top, attaching
wires to the bottom) and you should have added strength.  Continue using the
fine chain on the inside to keep the lid from falling.
Moya

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From owner-glass Wed Jul 10 01:32:23 2002
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Stephen Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Moya O'Neal <moya.oneal@verizon.net>
Content-Type: text/plain;charset=us-ascii;format=flowed
Subject: Re: Box
Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 07:53:06 +0100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@verrier>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@verizon.net>>
Precedence: bulk

Also a variation on this method is given in a back issue of "Common 
Ground: Glass.  Information is available from the site
www/igga.org
Steve
In message <1970Jan1.000.0@verizon.net>, Moya O'Neal 
<moya.oneal@verizon.net> writes
>Carolyn,
>I would cut the top of the box down a little and attach the tube part of the
>hinge to the top so that the weight of the top is not constantly pulling the
>tape on the top.  Just reverse your hinge pieces (tube on top, attaching
>wires to the bottom) and you should have added strength.  Continue using the
>fine chain on the inside to keep the lid from falling.
>Moya
>
>----
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-- 

Stephen Richard, Verrier
"Glass on Parade"
Glasgow, Scotland
----
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From owner-glass Fri Jul 12 09:07:06 2002
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I NEED TO BE DROPPED FROM THE LIST,THANK YOU ,ABBIE IN VA.

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  COLOR="#8080c0" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SERIF" FACE="Book Antiqua" LANG="0">I NEED TO BE DROPPED FROM THE LIST,THANK YOU ,ABBIE IN VA.</FONT></HTML>

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From owner-glass Fri Jul 12 10:39:56 2002
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Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 11:57:45 EDT
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I "m hoping one of you stained glass guru's will reply with an answer to my 
problem. 
I find that when I use came , even though its been stretched, it eventually 
pulls away .
i now use zinc but there are cases when i will have to use came. Can you tell 
me what I'm doing wrong.
thanks
sheila 
shecharlie@aol.com

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">I "m hoping one of you stained glass guru's will reply with an answer to my problem. <BR>
I find that when I use came , even though its been stretched, it eventually pulls away .<BR>
i now use zinc but there are cases when i will have to use came. Can you tell me what I'm doing wrong.<BR>
thanks<BR>
sheila <BR>
shecharlie@aol.com</FONT></HTML>

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From owner-glass Fri Jul 12 13:42:46 2002
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From: "Suzanne Gunn" <gunnx4@cox.net>
To: <Shecharlie@aol.com>,
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Subject: Re: came
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 15:24:02 -0500
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Im no guru...but I'll give my opinion.
It's apparently the way you are hanging it, right?

You might want to try using 4% lead...dont know what you are using, but the
4% is stronger and stiffer. (also harder to stretch)

My first choice would be to frame it, then hang it.

Second choice would be to attach any hanging paraphinalia only where the
lead is soldered to a joint in the panel, never between joints.

Hope this was of any help.

Suzanne


----- Original Message -----
From: <Shecharlie@aol.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Friday, July 12, 2002 10:57 AM
Subject: came


> I "m hoping one of you stained glass guru's will reply with an answer to
my
> problem.
> I find that when I use came , even though its been stretched, it
eventually
> pulls away .
> i now use zinc but there are cases when i will have to use came. Can you
tell
> me what I'm doing wrong.
> thanks
> sheila
> shecharlie@aol.com
>

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From owner-glass Fri Jul 12 14:44:50 2002
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Subject: stained glass stepping stones questions I have~~~
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 17:08:16 EDT
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I am wondering if anyone out there has made stepping stones and can answer 
some questions that I have.  I have made a dozen or so with concrete and used 
wood forms.  Some pieces of glass in a couple of stones cracked (some months 
later).
Does anyone know what causes this to happen? Also, when cleaning the stones, 
if the vaseline gets on the top, it stains the concrete.  What can be used to 
get that oil stain off the concrete?  And if there are any other helpful 
hints on making stepping stones, please write to me.  THANKS A 
BUNCH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

PWISERV@aol.com

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">I am wondering if anyone out there has made stepping stones and can answer some questions that I have.&nbsp; I have made a dozen or so with concrete and used wood forms.&nbsp; Some pieces of glass in a couple of stones cracked (some months later).<BR>
Does anyone know what causes this to happen? Also, when cleaning the stones, if the vaseline gets on the top, it stains the concrete.&nbsp; What can be used to get that oil stain off the concrete?&nbsp; And if there are any other helpful hints on making stepping stones, please write to me.&nbsp; THANKS A BUNCH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!<BR>
<BR>
PWISERV@aol.com</FONT></HTML>

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From owner-glass Sat Jul 13 15:20:27 2002
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Subject: black patina
Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2002 14:36:43 -0700 (PDT)
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Hi all,
I've just rejoined the bungi list, so I may have
missed a patina discussion that would have answered
this question.
I use Novacan Black Patina and from time to time I
manage to stain some of the glass involved as well as
the solder. On the back of the bottle Novacan
recommends its own product as a stain remover. My
local supplier does not carry such a product and the
owner suggests that this product is not actually
available. 
Can anybody tell me 1) where to get Novacan stain
remover and 2) does it do the job and 3)is there some
alternative way to remove the stains???? Thanks for
any help you can offer.
Bob Cutler

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From owner-glass Sat Jul 13 15:27:48 2002
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Please change my mailing address to Soquelie2000@Yahoo.com.

Thank you.

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From owner-glass Sat Jul 13 18:31:56 2002
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Hi please change my subscription email to
texpenguinglass@tsgreer.com.  Thanks!
Sherry Greer

=====
Sherry Greer
texpenguin@yahoo.com

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From owner-glass Sat Jul 13 22:05:50 2002
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Subject: patina stain problem solved
Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2002 21:53:53 -0700 (PDT)
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Hi all,
The crisis has passed. Helpful advice from two list
members led me to try plain old flux remover on the
glass stained with patina and it seems to have worked
to remove it.
Much obliged to list members.
Great to be back.
Bob Cutler

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From owner-glass Sun Jul 14 11:43:03 2002
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Subject: X-mas white stuff
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Yes it may be 108 degrees in Phoenix now but I'm thinking ahead to Xmas. I 
make small stained glass foiled projects to give away and sell at Xmas 
time. Most of them will be about 5 inches X 5 inches. What would be the 
best way to store these? Can I keep them sealed in a zip lock baggie? I 
have small boxes for each one but wanted to keep them dust free as much as 
possible. And sometimes I've noticed a small amount of white powder showing 
up some time later. All items had been waxed and buffed and buffed, so 
where does this white stuff come from? Lorley

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From owner-glass Sun Jul 14 13:51:18 2002
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What kind of wax?  Could it be excess wax turning white - I've seen that 
back when I used liquid car wax (urethane).  I now use the spray-on 
which is much easier.  Or - you did wash them thoroughly to get all the 
flux off before waxing?  If not, it could be oxidation of the solder. - Cec

Lorley Oneyear lorley@cox.net [bungier/Bungier] wrote:

> Yes it may be 108 degrees in Phoenix now but I'm thinking ahead to 
> Xmas. I make small stained glass foiled projects to give away and sell 
> at Xmas time. Most of them will be about 5 inches X 5 inches. What 
> would be the best way to store these? Can I keep them sealed in a zip 
> lock baggie? I have small boxes for each one but wanted to keep them 
> dust free as much as possible. And sometimes I've noticed a small 
> amount of white powder showing up some time later. All items had been 
> waxed and buffed and buffed, so where does this white stuff come from? 
> Lorley


-- 
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood 
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************


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From owner-glass Sun Jul 14 14:23:00 2002
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Cec, I use Kem-Pro wax and I really spend a lot of time buffing and getting 
into the corners. I can rub this new white stuff off but it doesn't seem 
like it's really old wax. What kind of spray on wax do you use? If I 
remember correctly from previous post you said it dries clear and if you 
should miss a small spot it really isn't noticeable. I do wash all my 
pieces thoroughly with Dawn dish soap and hot water so I don't think it's a 
flux/oxidation problem. Lorley



At 04:28 PM 07/14/2002 -0400, Cecily & Ralph Wood wrote:

>What kind of wax?  Could it be excess wax turning white - I've seen that 
>back when I used liquid car wax (urethane).  I now use the spray-on which 
>is much easier.  Or - you did wash them thoroughly to get all the flux off 
>before waxing?  If not, it could be oxidation of the solder. - Cec
>
>Lorley Oneyear lorley@cox.net [bungier/Bungier] wrote:
>
>>Yes it may be 108 degrees in Phoenix now but I'm thinking ahead to Xmas. 
>>I make small stained glass foiled projects to give away and sell at Xmas 
>>time. Most of them will be about 5 inches X 5 inches. What would be the 
>>best way to store these? Can I keep them sealed in a zip lock baggie? I 
>>have small boxes for each one but wanted to keep them dust free as much 
>>as possible. And sometimes I've noticed a small amount of white powder 
>>showing up some time later. All items had been waxed and buffed and 
>>buffed, so where does this white stuff come from? Lorley
>
>
>--
>*********************************************************************
>*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood *  Grendel 
>Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
>*********************************************************************
>
>
>----
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<html>
<font size=3>Cec, I use Kem-Pro wax and I really spend a lot of time
buffing and getting into the corners. I can rub this new white stuff off
but it doesn't seem like it's really old wax. What kind of spray on wax
do you use? If I remember correctly from previous post you said it dries
clear and if you should miss a small spot it really isn't noticeable. I
do wash all my pieces thoroughly with Dawn dish soap and hot water so I
don't think it's a flux/oxidation problem. Lorley<br><br>
<br><br>
At 04:28 PM 07/14/2002 -0400, Cecily &amp; Ralph Wood wrote:<br><br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>What kind of wax?&nbsp; Could it be
excess wax turning white - I've seen that back when I used liquid car wax
(urethane).&nbsp; I now use the spray-on which is much easier.&nbsp; Or -
you did wash them thoroughly to get all the flux off before waxing?&nbsp;
If not, it could be oxidation of the solder. - Cec<br><br>
Lorley Oneyear lorley@cox.net [bungier/Bungier] wrote:<br><br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>Yes it may be 108 degrees in
Phoenix now but I'm thinking ahead to Xmas. I make small stained glass
foiled projects to give away and sell at Xmas time. Most of them will be
about 5 inches X 5 inches. What would be the best way to store these? Can
I keep them sealed in a zip lock baggie? I have small boxes for each one
but wanted to keep them dust free as much as possible. And sometimes I've
noticed a small amount of white powder showing up some time later. All
items had been waxed and buffed and buffed, so where does this white
stuff come from? Lorley</blockquote><br><br>
-- <br>
*********************************************************************<br>
*&nbsp; Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood&nbsp; and/or&nbsp; Ralph Bernard Wood
*&nbsp; Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)<br>
*********************************************************************<br><br>
<br>
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From owner-glass Sun Jul 14 14:36:47 2002
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Subject: Re: patina stain problem solved
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2002 16:37:04 EDT
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Bob,

Thanks for writing back to the list and letting us know what suggestions you 
received.  It's irksome to read questions and never see the replies.  

Pat
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<html>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite><br>
Yes it may be 108 degrees in Phoenix now but I'm thinking ahead to Xmas.
I <br>
make small stained glass foiled projects to give away and sell at Xmas
<br>
time. Most of them will be about 5 inches X 5 inches. What would be the
<br>
best way to store these? Can I keep them sealed in a zip lock baggie? I
<br>
have small boxes for each one but wanted to keep them dust free as much
as <br>
possible. And sometimes I've noticed a small amount of white powder
showing <br>
up some time later. All items had been waxed and buffed and buffed, so
<br>
where does this white stuff come from? Lorley</blockquote><br>
In my experience it is probably oxidation-in the tropics here(Malaysia)it
can be a real problem-the white stuff just<br>
grows and grows.We get around it by washing very well with a detergent
and then giving it a thorough soak and rinse<br>
with an alkali-based 'bath'-to neutralise any acids from flux,patina,etc
that may be lurking behind.I mix a few drops of<br>
caustic soda with a litre of water-just a few drops!-that normally does
the trick.Too much alkali(read soda)and you could find<br>
your patina coming away.leave on a minute or two and then rinse well,and
wax and buff the usual way.It works great for me.<br>
<br>
<br>
<x-sigsep><p></x-sigsep>
<i>&quot;If you're not living on the edge,you're taking up too much
space!&quot; </i></html>

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From owner-glass Sun Jul 14 17:22:17 2002
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X-Path: comcast.net!cecnralph
From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@comcast.net>
To: "Lorley Oneyear lorley@cox.net [bungier/Bungier]"
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
Subject: Re: X-mas white stuff
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2002 18:57:17 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net>
References: <<995573222.1026682499834.JavaMail.root@monkey>>
Organization: Grendel Studio
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Well Dawn is what the Dept of Environment (Maryland) advises for people 
to clean up oil spills, etc. so that sounds right.  What I use now is a 
clear liquid spray - made by Turtle Wax, but probably Rain Dance or Blue 
Coral or any of them have something similar.  Spray it and wipe it all 
over, but not necessary to buff.  but I know how easy it was to not get 
all the other kind of wax all totally buffed, even tho I'd use a 
toothbrush around the foiled parts.  Corners were always the worst.  I 
had the same problem with the car - black - when I used the old liquid - 
whitish around all the metal strips, bumpers, etc. - Cec

Lorley Oneyear lorley@cox.net [bungier/Bungier] wrote:

> Cec, I use Kem-Pro wax and I really spend a lot of time buffing and 
> getting into the corners. I can rub this new white stuff off but it 
> doesn't seem like it's really old wax. What kind of spray on wax do 
> you use? If I remember correctly from previous post you said it dries 
> clear and if you should miss a small spot it really isn't noticeable. 
> I do wash all my pieces thoroughly with Dawn dish soap and hot water 
> so I don't think it's a flux/oxidation problem. Lorley
>
>
>
> At 04:28 PM 07/14/2002 -0400, Cecily & Ralph Wood wrote:
>
>> What kind of wax?  Could it be excess wax turning white - I've seen 
>> that back when I used liquid car wax (urethane).  I now use the 
>> spray-on which is much easier.  Or - you did wash them thoroughly to 
>> get all the flux off before waxing?  If not, it could be oxidation of 
>> the solder. - Cec
>>
>> Lorley Oneyear lorley@cox.net [bungier/Bungier] wrote:
>>
>>> Yes it may be 108 degrees in Phoenix now but I'm thinking ahead to 
>>> Xmas. I make small stained glass foiled projects to give away and 
>>> sell at Xmas time. Most of them will be about 5 inches X 5 inches. 
>>> What would be the best way to store these? Can I keep them sealed in 
>>> a zip lock baggie? I have small boxes for each one but wanted to 
>>> keep them dust free as much as possible. And sometimes I've noticed 
>>> a small amount of white powder showing up some time later. All items 
>>> had been waxed and buffed and buffed, so where does this white stuff 
>>> come from? Lorley
>>
>>
>>
>> -- 
>> *********************************************************************
>> *  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood *  Grendel 
>> Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
>> *********************************************************************
>>
>>
>> ----
>> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>> Archives available athttp://www.bungi.com/glass
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ---
>> Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
>> Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com 
>> <http://www.grisoft.com/>).
>> Version: 6.0.351 / Virus Database: 197 - Release Date: 04/19/2002
>
>

-- 
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood 
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************


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From owner-glass Sun Jul 14 18:29:51 2002
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X-Path: yahoo.com!bob8954
From: robert cutler <bob8954@yahoo.com>
To: glenna rand <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: more on patina stain on glass
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2002 18:20:02 -0700 (PDT)
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Back again,
I the cold light of day it appears that the flux
remover I tried on the Novacan black patina stain on
the red pieces of glass did not work. 
I am still wondering if Novacan actually makes the
product it describes on the back of the bottle of
black patina. 
rc

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From: robert cutler <bob8954@yahoo.com>
To: glenna rand <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Found it!!!
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2002 21:33:39 -0700 (PDT)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>
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To: glenna rand <glass@bungi.com>
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Subject: Found it!!!
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2002 21:33:39 -0700 (PDT)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>
Precedence: bulk

 
 

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From owner-glass Sun Jul 14 23:25:33 2002
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From: robert cutler <bob8954@yahoo.com>
To: glenna rand <glass@bungi.com>
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Subject: Found it!!!
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2002 21:33:38 -0700 (PDT)
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From owner-glass Sun Jul 14 23:43:33 2002
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From: robert cutler <bob8954@yahoo.com>
To: glenna rand <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: oops! Found it follow-up :^(
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2002 21:36:14 -0700 (PDT)
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I re-checked Warner-Criv and found the product i am
looking for.  I missed it the first time. Sorry to
inconvenience anyone. But your suggestions for glass
cleaning overall were very helpful as well so it was
not time wasted.
Thanks again 
Bob cutler

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From owner-glass Mon Jul 15 05:53:59 2002
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From: bjs10@cornell.edu
To: CncptThnkr@aol.com
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: patina stain problem solved
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 08:18:36 -0400 (EDT)
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I agree, it would be so nice to see the answers to questions... 

On Sun, 14 Jul 2002 CncptThnkr@aol.com wrote:

> Bob,
> 
> Thanks for writing back to the list and letting us know what suggestions you 
> received.  It's irksome to read questions and never see the replies.  
> 
> Pat
> ----
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From owner-glass Mon Jul 15 07:26:22 2002
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Subject: bungi:  Fwd: patina stain problem solved
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 09:42:09 -0400
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---------1cc216845e327e751cc216845e327e75
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i just deleted everything bob sent unfortunately as i thought the "i found it" email was junk mail.  please type "bungi" in the subject line if its related to this site so those of us who don't like reading/opening junk mail know its stuff we want to read!  thanks!

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I agree, it would be so nice to see the answers to questions... 

On Sun, 14 Jul 2002 CncptThnkr@aol.com wrote:

> Bob,
> 
> Thanks for writing back to the list and letting us know what suggestions you 
> received.  It's irksome to read questions and never see the replies.  
> 
> Pat
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> 
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From owner-glass Mon Jul 15 08:58:00 2002
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X-Path: comcast.net!cecnralph
From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@comcast.net>
To: "Bergju@aol.com [bungier/Bungier]"
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Re: bungi:  Fwd: My 2 =?ISO-8859-1?Q?=A2?=
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 11:14:49 -0400
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References: <<1224572017.1026744018678.JavaMail.root@monkey>>
Organization: Grendel Studio
Precedence: bulk

Typing Bungi in the subject line, along with the added Re: leaves lit=
tle=20
room for any subject.  I'd rather see a longer subject line and base =
my=20
deletes on that.  (Actually, I always glance at all messages because =
who=20
knows what I can learn, whether I think I'd be interested or not.) =
=20

There are small programs that let you preview an email message withou=
t=20
actually opening it - if you are afraid of viruses.  You'd be better=
=20
served by having a good virus program, though.  And since the vast=
=20
majority of the messages on Bungi ARE glass related in some fashion, =
I=20
think it a waste of time and space and energy.  My 2=A2. - Cec

Bergju@aol.com [bungier/Bungier] wrote:

>i just deleted everything bob sent unfortunately as i thought the "i=
 found it" email was junk mail.  please type "bungi" in the subject l=
ine if its related to this site so those of us who don't like reading=
/opening junk mail know its stuff we want to read!  thanks
>
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood=20
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************



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From owner-glass Mon Jul 15 09:14:54 2002
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X-Path: monster.com!jsaemails
From: jsaemails@monster.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Subject: Re: Language [#3126282]
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 11:15:44  -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@monster.com>
Precedence: bulk

Thank you for your interest in Monster, the leading online global career site! Please be assured that we have received your communication and there is no need to reply to this message. Your email will be answered in as timely a manner as possible. 




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From owner-glass Mon Jul 15 10:32:07 2002
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Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: =?ISO-8859-1?Q?Re:=20bungi:=20=20Fwd:=20My=202=20=A2?=
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 12:35:32 EDT
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i read everything that comes from bungi as i enjoy the list and have learned 
quite a bit from it, and i have a very good virus program that takes care of 
any concerns there.  i just get quite a bit of email and so much is 
unsolicited so i just don't bother opening things i've not requested or if 
from unknown senders as i do not have the time nor desire to read all the 
ads.  anyway, that was my 2 cents.
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From owner-glass Mon Jul 15 12:57:06 2002
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X-Path: aol.com!CUngv
From: CUngv@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: =?ISO-8859-1?Q?Re:=20bungi:=20=20Fwd:=20My=202=20=A2?=
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 15:37:41 EDT
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Precedence: bulk

And since the vast=
=20
majority of the messages on Bungi ARE glass related in some fashion, =
I=20
think it a waste of time and space and energy.  My 2=A2. - Cec

I wonder why it came across like that?  

In any event, I also read all of the messages "on Bungi."  The problem is 
figuring out which of them are "on Bungi."  Many of us do not use email 
programs that permit us to place bungi mail in a separate folder, so we are 
left trying to guess if "Re: X-mas white stuff" is glass-related (it is) or 
if "Re: from Diane Jjtwff" is glass-related (it is spam).  Bungi does not 
appear anywhere in the subject or sender line for either message, so it is up 
to me to guess, or open all emails.  I have to tell you, I get some pretty 
rauncy spam, and I prefer to delete it without opening it.

I think that most of us choose to read all bungi mail, regardless of the 
subject, so if "bungi" appears in the subject line, not much more room is 
necessary.

As it says in the subject line, "just my 2 cents."  

Carolyn 
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From owner-glass Mon Jul 15 15:43:08 2002
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X-Path: slonet.org!edupjohn
From: "Peggy W. Johnsen" <edupjohn@slonet.org>
To: robert cutler <bob8954@yahoo.com>
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: more on patina stain on glass
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 14:20:01 -0700 (PDT)
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References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Robert:  Yes, the patina manufacturer does make a stain remover.  I have a
bottle but have never used it.  I usually use acetone to remove patina
stains.  Peggy


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From owner-glass Mon Jul 15 16:13:40 2002
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X-Path: comcast.net!cecnralph
From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@comcast.net>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
Subject: Re: bungi:  Fwd: My 2 =?ISO-8859-1?Q?=A2?=
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 16:53:44 -0400
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AOHell doesn't let you filter mail into folders?  I thought the newest 
version was using Netscape - which they bought - and the just old one is 
a version of Internet Explorer (Microsoft) so would have expected both 
would allow filtering.  Not that that surprises me. - Cec

CUngv@aol.com [bungier/Bungier] wrote:

>And since the vast=
>=20
>majority of the messages on Bungi ARE glass related in some fashion, =
>I=20
>think it a waste of time and space and energy.  My 2=A2. - Cec
>
>I wonder why it came across like that?  
>
>In any event, I also read all of the messages "on Bungi."  The problem is 
>figuring out which of them are "on Bungi."  Many of us do not use email 
>programs that permit us to place bungi mail in a separate folder, so we are 
>left trying to guess if "Re: X-mas white stuff" is glass-related (it is) or 
>if "Re: from Diane Jjtwff" is glass-related (it is spam).  Bungi does not 
>appear anywhere in the subject or sender line for either message, so it is up 
>to me to guess, or open all emails.  I have to tell you, I get some pretty 
>rauncy spam, and I prefer to delete it without opening it.
>
>I think that most of us choose to read all bungi mail, regardless of the 
>subject, so if "bungi" appears in the subject line, not much more room is 
>necessary.
>
>As it says in the subject line, "just my 2 cents."  
>
>Carolyn 
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
>
>  
>

-- 
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood 
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************


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From owner-glass Mon Jul 15 17:16:18 2002
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From: "Moya O'Neal" <moya.oneal@verizon.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
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Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2002 23:26:00 -0400
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Cec:
What kind of spray on stuff?
Moya

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<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>Cec:</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>What kind of spray on stuff?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>Moya</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-glass Mon Jul 15 21:22:16 2002
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X-Path: datasync.com!nts
From: "Nancy Saucier" <nts@datasync.com>
To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: bungi - acetone
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 23:00:46 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@datasync.com>
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Peggy - are we talking nail polish remover?  Never would have thought to try
that!  Works well, I take it?
Nancy Saucier
Picayune Mississippi

Robert:  Yes, the patina manufacturer does make a stain remover.  I have a
bottle but have never used it.  I usually use acetone to remove patina
stains.  Peggy

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From owner-glass Tue Jul 16 18:14:22 2002
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From: "Frank Mizzi" <frankgmizzi@hotmail.com>
To: nts@datasync.com
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
Subject: Re: bungi - acetone
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 00:47:40 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@hotmail.com>
Precedence: bulk


Greetings,

make sure you keep the acetone off your hand ESPECIALLY if you have 
cuts...it will sting like an angry bull ant!.  Even if it gets underneath 
any rings you may wear where the skin will be damp and therefore soft.  The 
acetone will dry out your skin severly if you leave in in contact for too 
long.

Nail polish remover has other ingredients that make it smell nice and de-fat 
your skin less but straight acetone from the hardware store will be chaeper 
and if used with gloves will give just as good results.

FGM

>From: "Nancy Saucier" <nts@datasync.com>
>To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
>Subject: bungi - acetone
>Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 23:00:46 -0500
>
>Peggy - are we talking nail polish remover?  Never would have thought to 
>try
>that!  Works well, I take it?
>Nancy Saucier
>Picayune Mississippi
>
>Robert:  Yes, the patina manufacturer does make a stain remover.  I have a
>bottle but have never used it.  I usually use acetone to remove patina
>stains.  Peggy
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass




_________________________________________________________________
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: 
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx

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From owner-glass Sat Jul 20 08:14:55 2002
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X-Path: comcast.net!TheGlassGarden
From: The Glass Garden <TheGlassGarden@comcast.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: double strength glass...sandwiching glass HELP
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2002 10:44:26 -0400
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Hi All!

I want to sandwich a pressed flowers and wedding invitations between glass....what is double strength glass???  Is this the right glass to use?  what should the thickness be?  What size foil do I need to use?
Any comments or instructions would be sincerely appreciated!!!
Wendy

--Boundary_(ID_VycfbV++krWtbw4Rt9TJcA)
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
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</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Hi All!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I want to sandwich a pressed flowers and wedding 
invitations between glass....what is double strength glass???&nbsp; Is this the 
right glass to use?&nbsp; what should the thickness be?&nbsp; What size foil do 
I need to use?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Any comments or instructions would be sincerely 
appreciated!!!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Wendy</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-glass Sat Jul 20 18:08:53 2002
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From owner-glass Sat Jul 20 22:46:35 2002
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X-Path: slonet.org!edupjohn
From: "Peggy W. Johnsen" <edupjohn@slonet.org>
To: The Glass Garden <TheGlassGarden@comcast.net>
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: double strength glass...sandwiching glass HELP
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2002 22:06:27 -0700 (PDT)
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References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net>>
Precedence: bulk

Wendy: To sandwich your flowers, I would suggest that you use single
strength glass in front and an extra thin clear glass in the back.  Cut
your glass to your pattern, arrange your pressed flowers and then join the
two pieces.  Use 1/4 inch foil, use flux sparingly and tin the
piece.  Place it into your panel or add a hanger or whatever you plan to
do.  Peggy

On Sat, 20 Jul 2002, The Glass Garden wrote:

> This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
> 
> --Boundary_(ID_VycfbV++krWtbw4Rt9TJcA)
> Content-type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
> Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT
> 
> Hi All!
> 
> I want to sandwich a pressed flowers and wedding invitations between glass....what is double strength glass???  Is this the right glass to use?  what should the thickness be?  What size foil do I need to use?
> Any comments or instructions would be sincerely appreciated!!!
> Wendy
> 
> --Boundary_(ID_VycfbV++krWtbw4Rt9TJcA)
> Content-type: text/html; charset=iso-8859-1
> Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT
> 
> <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
> <HTML><HEAD>
> <META http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1">
> <META content="MSHTML 6.00.2716.2200" name=GENERATOR>
> <STYLE></STYLE>
> </HEAD>
> <BODY bgColor=#ffffff>
> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Hi All!</FONT></DIV>
> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I want to sandwich a pressed flowers and wedding 
> invitations between glass....what is double strength glass???&nbsp; Is this the 
> right glass to use?&nbsp; what should the thickness be?&nbsp; What size foil do 
> I need to use?</FONT></DIV>
> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Any comments or instructions would be sincerely 
> appreciated!!!</FONT></DIV>
> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Wendy</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
> 
> --Boundary_(ID_VycfbV++krWtbw4Rt9TJcA)--
> ----
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> -------
> 

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From owner-glass Sun Jul 21 10:38:26 2002
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X-Path: comcast.net!cecnralph
From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@comcast.net>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
Subject: informal survey glass software
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2002 12:44:09 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net>
Organization: Grendel Studio
Precedence: bulk

I was just wondering what software you use in "glassing", and so I'd 
need to know what  computer and operating system as well.  I suggest you 
fill this out and return it to me (you may have to save this as a file, 
open it, fill it out, and attach it in an email directly to me), so we 
don't clog up Bungi.  I'll make the info available to all  later.  So:

PC___?  DOS ___?  Windows _______?  UNIX flavor _______?  Other _________?

Mac___?  OS 7 or less______  OS 8 or 9______  OS X_______?  UNIX flavor 
(other than X)_________  Other________?  VPC (or other PC 
emulator)_________?  Windows________?

Graphics specifically for Glass:  Glass Eye (PC only)____   Glass Magic 
(PC only)____   Rapid Resizer (PC only)____  Other1_______________ 
 Other2______________

Graphics generic:   PC CAD_________________   Mac CAD________________   
 Other _____________(Canvas, Corel, etc.)

Publishing:    PageMaker __________   Illustrator __________   
 PhotoShop__________
InDesign____________    GoLive____________    Acrobat____________  Quark 
Express____________   FrameMaker_______________    Other1___________   
 Other2____________  

Spreadsheet:_________________     Database:_________________  Word 
Processing:_____________

Multi-component (***works):_________________

Simple Banking (Quicken etc.):______________________

Business Accounting Package:______________________

Time/Project Management:______________________

Inventory:______________________

All-In-One Business Management:__________________

Any other programs:_________________?

Did you develop you own business forms?_________  If not, where did you 
obtain them?___________________________________

If you have written your own tools in a database or spreadsheet, please 
tell us and describe them a bit.  

Also - what should I have asked but didn't (with your answer as well, 
please)?

For the rest, please tell us the shortcomings of the tools you have, and 
the strengths.  If you were to recommend any of these programs, what 
would you recommend for A) a hobbyist  B) small studio   C) retail

Yup - you IGGA people realize this is fodder for my Glascinations column 
in Common Ground.  Thanks in advance!!!!! - Cec

-- 
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood 
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************


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From owner-glass Sun Jul 21 21:21:39 2002
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From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@comcast.net>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
Subject: NY Times reviews new museum
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2002 23:59:14 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net>
Organization: Grendel Studio
Precedence: bulk

This Sunday's New York Times has a very interesting review of the new 
glass museum in Tacoma, specializing in modern glass - only the 2nd 
museum in the US concentrating on glass (the other is at Corning NY with 
more a specialty of the history of glass).  The architecture looks 
stunning, from what I could see of the photos.  It's in the Arts & 
Leisure section - and probably available on the web as well.  You have 
to be a "member" but it costs nothing.  "A Pyramid for New Treasures of 
an Age-Old Art" by Rita Reif. - Cec

-- 
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood 
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************


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From owner-glass Mon Jul 22 08:25:54 2002
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X-Path: doorpi.net!mmam5
From: "Marci" <mmam5@doorpi.net>
To: "Cecily & Ralph Wood" <cecnralph@comcast.net>,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: NY Times reviews new museum
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2002 09:37:23 -0500
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Precedence: bulk

Their Website is awesome also! Thanks for sharing with us Cec!!

http://www.museumofglass.org/MG_intro.html

Have fun!

Marci
Martin Designs
www.mmartindesigns.com


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cecily & Ralph Wood" <cecnralph@comcast.net>
To: "Bungi Glass" <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Sunday, July 21, 2002 10:59 PM
Subject: NY Times reviews new museum


> This Sunday's New York Times has a very interesting review of the new 
> glass museum in Tacoma, specializing in modern glass - only the 2nd 
> museum in the US concentrating on glass (the other is at Corning NY with 
> more a specialty of the history of glass).  The architecture looks 
> stunning, from what I could see of the photos.  It's in the Arts & 
> Leisure section - and probably available on the web as well.  You have 
> to be a "member" but it costs nothing.  "A Pyramid for New Treasures of 
> an Age-Old Art" by Rita Reif. - Cec
> 
> -- 
> *********************************************************************
> *  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood 
> *  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
> *********************************************************************
> 
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> 


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From owner-glass Tue Jul 23 13:07:23 2002
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X-Path: stratus.com!Charlie.Spitzer
From: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie.Spitzer@stratus.com>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE: X-mas white stuff
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2002 12:40:56 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@stratus.com>
Precedence: bulk

corrosion from flux underneath your foil. it seeps out after you clean and
wax a piece. soaking your pieces in a flux removal solution (water, baking
soda, dawn detergent) before waxing would make it go away.

regards,
charlie
cave creek, az

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Cecily & Ralph Wood [mailto:cecnralph@comcast.net]
> Sent: Sunday, July 14, 2002 1:28 PM
> To: "Lorley Oneyear lorley@cox.net [bungier/Bungier]"@daver.bungi.com
> Subject: Re: X-mas white stuff
> 
> 
> What kind of wax?  Could it be excess wax turning white - 
> I've seen that 
> back when I used liquid car wax (urethane).  I now use the spray-on 
> which is much easier.  Or - you did wash them thoroughly to 
> get all the 
> flux off before waxing?  If not, it could be oxidation of the 
> solder. - Cec
> 
> Lorley Oneyear lorley@cox.net [bungier/Bungier] wrote:
> 
> > Yes it may be 108 degrees in Phoenix now but I'm thinking ahead to 
> > Xmas. I make small stained glass foiled projects to give 
> away and sell 
> > at Xmas time. Most of them will be about 5 inches X 5 inches. What 
> > would be the best way to store these? Can I keep them 
> sealed in a zip 
> > lock baggie? I have small boxes for each one but wanted to 
> keep them 
> > dust free as much as possible. And sometimes I've noticed a small 
> > amount of white powder showing up some time later. All 
> items had been 
> > waxed and buffed and buffed, so where does this white stuff 
> come from? 
> > Lorley
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From owner-glass Tue Jul 23 13:27:45 2002
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X-Path: stratus.com!Charlie.Spitzer
From: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie.Spitzer@stratus.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE: came
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2002 12:34:48 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@stratus.com>
Precedence: bulk

came is soft. even if you stretch it (work harden), it remains a soft metal.
you need to design how you're going to hang it into your piece, so that the
gravity downwards isn't pulling on a single point of lead. try attaching the
hanging points to a place where one or more cames are soldered together. you
can even make the legs of the loops be long (1-2") and solder the entire leg
to the came. this spreads out the force more, and will delay the bending of
the lead for a lot longer time. 

regards,
charlie
cave creek, az

-----Original Message-----
From: Shecharlie@aol.com [mailto:Shecharlie@aol.com]
Sent: Friday, July 12, 2002 8:58 AM
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: came


I "m hoping one of you stained glass guru's will reply with an answer to my
problem. 
I find that when I use came , even though its been stretched, it eventually
pulls away .
i now use zinc but there are cases when i will have to use came. Can you
tell me what I'm doing wrong.
thanks
sheila 
shecharlie@aol.com 
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From owner-glass Tue Jul 23 20:24:04 2002
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	for rglass-42; Tue, 23 Jul 2002 20:07:29 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28)
X-Path: diplomats.com!gwazo
From: "ABDULID GWAZO" <gwazo@diplomats.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain;charset="iso-8859-1"
Subject: appeal to you An Appeal for your serious and religious  assistance
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 04:03:33
Message-ID: <m17XCSU-001fE8C@rdaver.bungi.com>
Precedence: bulk

ATTN:  Sir/ Madam
I am elder son of . Maj.General Gwazo former Military chief Security Officer of the Head of State who died mysteriously as a result of Cardiac Arrest. Since after the death of the Head of State my father has been under restriction of movement and that not withstanding, we are being molested policed,and my father's Bank Account both here and abroad are being frozen by the Nigerian Civilian Government. 



Furthermore, my father has been in detention by the Nigerian Government for more interrogation about the past regime of Late Gen.Sani , Some of my father's assets and some vital documentshas been seized Following the on-going interrogation by the Nigerian Government . I therefore decided to contact you in confidence that I was able to move out the sum of US$25 Million Dollars, which was secretly secured with a security company and is sealed in two Metal Boxes for security reasons. 

I therefore personally, appeal to you seriously and religiously for your urgent assistance to move this money from the security company into your country where I believe it will be safe since we can not leave the country due to the restriction of movement imposed on my father and the members of our family by the Nigerian Government. 

You can contact me via e-mail  mailto: chief_sec@diplomats.com   for the arrangement on how to move the fund also on how to meet in order to liaise with you ,toward effective completion of this transaction. 


Conclusively, we have agreed to offer you 30% of the total sum while 70% is to be held on trust by you until my father is release ,so he could decide on a suitable business investment in your country subsequent to our free movement by the Nigerian Government. Please reply urgently and treat with absolute confidentiality and sincerety .

Best Regards. 

Abdulid Gwazo 

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From owner-glass Wed Jul 24 20:58:18 2002
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	via smail with stdio
	id <m17XZRI-0000dIa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Wed, 24 Jul 2002 20:37:20 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28)
X-Path: mindspring.com!the_reeds
From: "Larry & Kimmberly Reed" <the_reeds@mindspring.com>
To: "ABDULID GWAZO" <gwazo@diplomats.com>,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE: appeal to you An Appeal for your serious and religious  assistance
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 21:28:48 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@mindspring.com>
References: <<m17XCSU-001fE8C@rdaver.bungi.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Members of Glass@bunji.com:  My wife, Kimmberly, is a member of your group.
I recently noticed the subject line on this e-mail and, having some
experience with the "Nigerian scam", opened it.  My suspicions were
confirmed.  Do not reply to this letter.  This is a scam which has worked on
gullible and greedy US citizens for the past 10 years.  Beware.  Larry Reed

-----Original Message-----
From: ABDULID GWAZO [mailto:gwazo@diplomats.com]
Sent: Wednesday, July 24, 2002 4:04 AM
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: appeal to you An Appeal for your serious and religious
assistance


ATTN:  Sir/ Madam
I am elder son of . Maj.General Gwazo former Military chief Security Officer
of the Head of State who died mysteriously as a result of Cardiac Arrest.
Since after the death of the Head of State my father has been under
restriction of movement and that not withstanding, we are being molested
policed,and my father's Bank Account both here and abroad are being frozen
by the Nigerian Civilian Government.



Furthermore, my father has been in detention by the Nigerian Government for
more interrogation about the past regime of Late Gen.Sani , Some of my
father's assets and some vital documentshas been seized Following the
on-going interrogation by the Nigerian Government . I therefore decided to
contact you in confidence that I was able to move out the sum of US$25
Million Dollars, which was secretly secured with a security company and is
sealed in two Metal Boxes for security reasons.

I therefore personally, appeal to you seriously and religiously for your
urgent assistance to move this money from the security company into your
country where I believe it will be safe since we can not leave the country
due to the restriction of movement imposed on my father and the members of
our family by the Nigerian Government.

You can contact me via e-mail  mailto: chief_sec@diplomats.com   for the
arrangement on how to move the fund also on how to meet in order to liaise
with you ,toward effective completion of this transaction.


Conclusively, we have agreed to offer you 30% of the total sum while 70% is
to be held on trust by you until my father is release ,so he could decide on
a suitable business investment in your country subsequent to our free
movement by the Nigerian Government. Please reply urgently and treat with
absolute confidentiality and sincerety .

Best Regards.

Abdulid Gwazo

----
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----
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From owner-glass Thu Jul 25 16:49:49 2002
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	for rglass-42; Thu, 25 Jul 2002 16:23:26 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28)
X-Path: hotmail.com!frankgmizzi
From: "Frank Mizzi" <frankgmizzi@hotmail.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
Subject: BUNGI-Ideas for new workshop
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2002 23:21:48 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@hotmail.com>
Precedence: bulk



Greetings,

I have just started building my FIRST very OWN leadlight workshop.

Unfortunately I am restricted by local council(Australian) and financial 
considerations  to an area of 10sq. meters. (This is a serious hobby type 
workshop and not commercial). I am not planning to do anything fancy at this 
stage, just lead came type work.

I would be most grateful to anyone who would take the time to pass on some 
of their knowledge/experience in relation to what are good ides to 
incorporate into the workshop. Things like  "what is a good bench height", 
"What is a good way to organise glass and other materials", "how to maximize 
storage space" etc etc.

Any and all help will be grately appreciated.

Thank you

Frank.

_________________________________________________________________
Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com

----
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From owner-glass Thu Jul 25 17:48:20 2002
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	for rglass-42; Thu, 25 Jul 2002 16:23:26 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28)
X-Path: hotmail.com!frankgmizzi
From: "Frank Mizzi" <frankgmizzi@hotmail.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
Subject: BUNGI-Ideas for new workshop
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2002 23:21:48 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@hotmail.com>
Precedence: bulk



Greetings,

I have just started building my FIRST very OWN leadlight workshop.

Unfortunately I am restricted by local council(Australian) and financial 
considerations  to an area of 10sq. meters. (This is a serious hobby type 
workshop and not commercial). I am not planning to do anything fancy at this 
stage, just lead came type work.

I would be most grateful to anyone who would take the time to pass on some 
of their knowledge/experience in relation to what are good ides to 
incorporate into the workshop. Things like  "what is a good bench height", 
"What is a good way to organise glass and other materials", "how to maximize 
storage space" etc etc.

Any and all help will be grately appreciated.

Thank you

Frank.

_________________________________________________________________
Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com

----
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From owner-glass Thu Jul 25 20:12:30 2002
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	for rglass-42; Thu, 25 Jul 2002 19:57:27 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28)
X-Path: doorpi.net!mmam5
From: "Marci" <mmam5@doorpi.net>
To: "Frank Mizzi" <frankgmizzi@hotmail.com>, <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: BUNGI-Ideas for new workshop
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2002 19:48:37 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@doorpi.net>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@hotmail.com>>
Precedence: bulk

My benches - 2 main ones - are of two different hights - one if great for
sitting at a stool and soldering, grinding, sawing, etc. The other is
lower - about hip high - that I use for cutting glass.

Another glass member mentioned and showed us pictures of keeping her glass
pieces (smaller than a 8.5" x 11") in clear plastic (rubbermaid)
containers -about the size of shoe boxes - I've tried this and just love
it - they stack nicely - you can see what is in each box, and it keeps the
glass pieces neat and clean.  I keep all my glass globs, and geodes in a
multidrawer storage container (originally for nuts and bolts I think).

I had my husband build a light box into my higher counter. I only have one
small window (it's a basement room) so have lots of overhead lighting, plus
lights underneath the shelves about the workbenches.  See photos of shop at
www.mmartindesigns.com/newstuff.htm    it takes a moment to load up - but
the shop pictures are at the bottom of the page. Still some
cleaning/organizing to do - but much much better than it was for doing glass
work!

We were going to paint the walls - but I decided that hanging past/future
project "cartoons" was nicer - gave me ideas of projects I had done and
others I want to do!   Now to clean off the shelves and put up my many glass
books! Seems like there is Always something to do!

Good luck!

Marci
Martin Designs
www.mmartindesigns.com



----- Original Message -----
From: "Frank Mizzi" <frankgmizzi@hotmail.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 25, 2002 6:21 PM
Subject: BUNGI-Ideas for new workshop


>
>
> Greetings,
>
> I have just started building my FIRST very OWN leadlight workshop.
>
> Unfortunately I am restricted by local council(Australian) and financial
> considerations  to an area of 10sq. meters. (This is a serious hobby type
> workshop and not commercial). I am not planning to do anything fancy at
this
> stage, just lead came type work.
>
> I would be most grateful to anyone who would take the time to pass on some
> of their knowledge/experience in relation to what are good ides to
> incorporate into the workshop. Things like  "what is a good bench height",
> "What is a good way to organise glass and other materials", "how to
maximize
> storage space" etc etc.
>
> Any and all help will be grately appreciated.
>
> Thank you
>
> Frank.
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>


----
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From owner-glass Fri Jul 26 10:04:20 2002
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	for rglass-42; Fri, 26 Jul 2002 10:00:32 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28)
X-Path: sympatico.ca!snooker1
From: "Millar" <snooker1@sympatico.ca>
To: "'Frank Mizzi'" <frankgmizzi@hotmail.com>,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE: BUNGI-Ideas for new workshop
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 2002 12:32:08 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@sympatico.ca>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@hotmail.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Storage
8' shelves or use the carboard tubes from contruction (4") under your bench
for storing came
20" box shelves for glass storage
and lots of shelves for everything. Keep the floor area free.
Don't cut youself ( like I do)

Ted

-----Original Message-----
From: Frank Mizzi [mailto:frankgmizzi@hotmail.com]
Sent: Thursday, July 25, 2002 7:22 PM
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: BUNGI-Ideas for new workshop




Greetings,

I have just started building my FIRST very OWN leadlight workshop.

Unfortunately I am restricted by local council(Australian) and financial
considerations  to an area of 10sq. meters. (This is a serious hobby type
workshop and not commercial). I am not planning to do anything fancy at this
stage, just lead came type work.

I would be most grateful to anyone who would take the time to pass on some
of their knowledge/experience in relation to what are good ides to
incorporate into the workshop. Things like  "what is a good bench height",
"What is a good way to organise glass and other materials", "how to maximize
storage space" etc etc.

Any and all help will be grately appreciated.

Thank you

Frank.

_________________________________________________________________
Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com

----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

----
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From owner-glass Fri Jul 26 11:07:34 2002
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From: MSN Hotmail <wchelp@hotmail.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=iso-8859-1
Subject: Re:wchelp,let's be friends
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 2002 09:21:07 -0700 (PDT)
Message-ID: <200207261621.JAA07282@law-cs1.hotmail.com>
Precedence: bulk


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From owner-glass Fri Jul 26 17:23:33 2002
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	for rglass-42; Fri, 26 Jul 2002 17:12:49 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28)
X-Path: yahoo.com!jusconus
From: ALBERT KABILA <jusconus@yahoo.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Personal Need
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 2002 09:08:12 -0700 (PDT)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>
Precedence: bulk

                                 Tel/Fax: 27 83
6652835

                STRICTLY CONFIDENTIAL 

I am Albert (27), son of late President of the
Democratic republic of congo(Mr.laurent kabila) who
was assassinated on Tuesday 16th January 2001 by one
of the bodyguards who also comes from the same
community with us. Regarding to detailed information
and recommendation of your company by the South Africa
Trade Journal. I wish to commence a very confidential
business with you involving the transfer of  EIGHTEEN
MILLION FIVE HUNDRED THOUSAND UNITED STATES DOLLARS
(US$ 18. 5 MILLION) into your account overseas pending
when I come over there for family investment and our
mutualsharing.

This fund was originally mapped out by my father for
the payment of military uniforms and communication
gadgets.Following the assassination of my father, I
was immediately flown out to South Africa with a box
containing the said sum of money with the help of my
mother and uncle and I deposited the fund in a Finance
and Trust Company in Johannesburg, South Africa with
the consent of a contracted lawyer. Now I would like
you to come down to South Africa and I assist me by
opening a non-resident and investment account where
this money will be deposited for onward transfer into
your account overseas.

 My mother and I have unanimously agreed to offer you
10% of the total sum, 5% set aside for expenses that
might be incurred in the course of this transaction
and 85% will be set aside for our family’s business in
your country. If this proposal interests you, kindly
indicate by calling or fax me for details and
guideline on how this can be achieved soon without
delay. Thanks for your anticipated co-operation. 

God bless Best regards,
ALBERT KABILA 
(FOR THE FAMILY.)





__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Health - Feel better, live better
http://health.yahoo.com
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From owner-glass Wed Jul 31 07:17:05 2002
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	for rglass-42; Wed, 31 Jul 2002 06:52:23 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28)
X-Path: aol.com!LByrne21
From: LByrne21@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Help Bungians with Bookmarks!
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 09:50:21 EDT
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>
Precedence: bulk

Have just gone thru the horror of changing computers, and in the "changeover" 
have lost all my bookmarks.  I am hoping that you can all post, again, any of 
your websites pertaining to stained glass that are now "gone with the wind" 
on the old computer.
             Also, besides "Google" there was another search engine that one 
could call upon...that just by clicking on a desired catagory.....you could 
search for pictures in that category.  I would certainly appreciate any help 
you folks can give me regarding this missing information.      Lavergne 
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