From owner-glass Sat Jun 1 09:59:51 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sat, 1 Jun 2002 09:45:45 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: aol.com!Bergju From: Bergju@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Subject: Re: bird feeders, etc Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 12:44:49 EDT Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com> Precedence: bulk thanks to everyone for the info on my question. live and learn! zinc harmful! that i didn't know. lead free it is! ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Jun 1 15:07:03 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sat, 1 Jun 2002 14:57:53 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: lebanon-ad.com!lebad From: "Freedom" To: "glass@bungi.com" Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Subject: Vote For Your Freedom... Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2002 00:57:25 -0700 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@lebanon> Precedence: bulk Whereas they want your silence, Freedom wants your voice, Vote Gabriel El Murr Only one voice will make a difference: Yours! Vote Gabriel El Murr Don't question the impact of your vote; it may do the whole difference Vote Gabriel El Murr ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Jun 1 15:45:44 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sat, 1 Jun 2002 15:10:28 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard From: Stephen Richard To: UserDusty@aol.com Content-Type: text/plain;charset=us-ascii;format=flowed Subject: Re: Bird Feeders Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 21:26:54 +0100 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@verrier> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>> Precedence: bulk If I am correct, lead free solder still contains tin. If so, tin is a poison too. Steve In message <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>, UserDusty@aol.com writes >Hi Everyone, > >I noticed it's been quiet lately. I've just finished a leaded glass class >and starting to layout some replacement doors for the wife's china cabinet. >It seems that the drawing part is taking forever. Been doing a lot of work >outside. It finally got warm here in Erie. Regarding the bird feeders I >agree that the lead free solder is the only kind to use. Some where in my >reading I ran across some candy dishes and it specified lead free only. >---- >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com >To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass -- Stephen Richard, Verrier "Glass on Parade" Glasgow, Scotland ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Jun 2 09:44:26 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 2 Jun 2002 09:14:32 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: lsu.edu!gate005.lsu.edu/LSU From: "gate005.lsu.edu" To: glass Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: LSU's Anti-Virus scanner detected a virus in an email message you sent. Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2002 11:12:39 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@lsu.edu> Precedence: bulk The email was quarantined at LSU and not delivered to the intended recipient(s). You should inspect your computer for further signs of virus infection. From owner-glass Sun Jun 2 12:49:19 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 2 Jun 2002 12:29:32 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: stainedglass.co.uk!studio From: "studio@stainedglass.co.uk" To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Subject: getting rid of spam Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2002 20:26:58 +0100 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@stainedglass.co.uk> Precedence: bulk Noticed an interesting message on the Aanraku board today bout a service available to some computer users which can filter spam out for you!! I quote Jefferey: : They have a service called "Spaminator". It automatically : monitors their network and redirects SPAM email to their SPAM : eliminator before it can get to you. If you want, there is also a : failsafe location where you can view these lists periodically to : confirm that none of the emails removed are legitimate ones to you. Unfortunately our isp doesnt use it so I shall just have to keep deleting tens of messages a day unread but yours might!! you can check if it does by going to http://www.brightmail.com/home_users.html Elizabeth in Bournemouth Bournemouth Stained Glass http://www.stainedglass.co.uk ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Jun 2 13:51:28 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 2 Jun 2002 13:44:58 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: hotmail.com!elleshau From: "ellen hummert" To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed Subject: nightmare... crack in glass as i finish the window.... Date: Sun, 02 Jun 2002 20:42:45 +0000 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@hotmail.com> Precedence: bulk hi all - a very feint hairline crack appeared in a big triangular piece of glass that's already soldered into a 6' (w) x 2' (h) window i'm just finishing up - it's got strongline between the pieces there and would be enormously painful to remove it. the window feels really strong - think it's ok to leave it in? thanks. _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Jun 3 07:10:09 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 3 Jun 2002 06:50:41 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: doorpi.net!mmam5 From: "Marci" To: "ellen hummert" , Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Re: nightmare... crack in glass as i finish the window.... Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 08:41:37 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@doorpi.net> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@hotmail.com>> Precedence: bulk Oh - -I hate those!!! I don't suppose you could cover the crack on both sides with foil and solder over it to make it look like it was suppose to be part of the pattern?? Is the window for you? or for a client? I usually do the whole nine yards if its for a client and melt out the solder, remove and replace the piece, etc. The crack will only get more noticeable as time goes on. Especially after shipping. Sometimes if the cracks are near a corner you can ignore them. Good luck! Marci Martin Designs ----- Original Message ----- From: "ellen hummert" To: Sent: Sunday, June 02, 2002 3:42 PM Subject: nightmare... crack in glass as i finish the window.... > > > hi all - a very feint hairline crack appeared in a big triangular piece of > glass that's already soldered into a 6' (w) x 2' (h) window i'm just > finishing up - it's got strongline between the pieces there and would be > enormously painful to remove it. > > the window feels really strong - think it's ok to leave it in? > > thanks. > > _________________________________________________________________ > Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com > > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Jun 3 09:11:37 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 3 Jun 2002 08:52:35 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: charter.net!jkwilliams From: "Kim Williams" To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1"; format="flowed" Subject: Re: Parrot/Pig lamp Date: Mon, 03 Jun 2002 11:49:08 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@charter.net> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com>> Precedence: bulk I think I have you all topped. I had to make a hanging lamp for a babys room. It was 4 sided panel lamp out of bright, and I mean bright, yellow glass with a big panda plopped in the middle of each panel. This was designed by an interior decorator for the room she was comissioned to do. She originally wanted to put the lamp on a floor stand. Can you imagine the 40lb lamp falling onto a baby when he started crawling around. I wonder if that lamp is giving the baby nightmares still??? I guess we just have to have patience with these people and really try to suggest alternatives. We all know that when they get something into their heads you can't get it out. Kim Williams Touch of Glass WI On Thu, 30 May 2002 18:49:41 -0400 "Christie A. Wood" wrote: >Message text written by "Kaye Sodt" >>I'm out here, too. Actually, you've been in my thoughts, >>Christie, = > >because I've been unenthusiastically working on a lamp >which = > >reminds me of your experience with the pig lamp. Mine is >a parrot = > >lamp. One of my students (I work at a university) >commissioned = > >the thing as a gift for her fiance (who's graduating from >medical = > >school). They have two parrots and she wanted them >depicted in = > >the lamp. Not even colorful birds--mostly green. I'll >be glad to be = > >rid of this one....< > >Ah, the infamous pig lamp raises it's ugly head to bite >me again. Sorry = >to >hear you've got to do your own special version. Maybe >you can make it mo= >re >interesting by using 100 different greens. My >sympathies. Scan & email = >me >a picture when you're done, please? > >Christie A. Wood >Art Glass Ensembles >Denton, TX >---- >For subscription changes, please mail to: >glass-request@bungi.com >To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Jun 3 09:51:31 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 3 Jun 2002 09:32:18 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: doorpi.net!mmam5 From: "Marci" To: Content-Type: multipart/alternative; Subject: Favorite Part of Stained Glass Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 11:24:18 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@doorpi.net> Precedence: bulk This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0019_01C20AF1.335E2840 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I LOVE TO SOLDER! I'm finishing up my second roll of solder on the = first side of my big project! Whoo Hooo! :) What is everyone else's Favorite part of the stained glass process. . . = ??? Cutting? The look on a clients face when they Love it?? Grinding? = Foiling? Marci Martin Designs ------=_NextPart_000_0019_01C20AF1.335E2840 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I LOVE TO SOLDER!   I'm = finishing up my=20 second roll of solder on the first side of my big project! Whoo Hooo!=20 :)
 
What is everyone else's = Favorite=20 part of the stained glass process. . . ???  Cutting? The look on a = clients=20 face when they Love it?? Grinding?  Foiling?
 
 
Marci
Martin = Designs
------=_NextPart_000_0019_01C20AF1.335E2840-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Jun 3 11:15:49 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 3 Jun 2002 10:55:15 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: GSA-ORSP.CROWN.NWU.EDU!kaye From: "Kaye Sodt" To: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Subject: Re: Favorite Part of Stained Glass Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 12:20:44 CST 6CDT Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@GSA> Organization: GSA-ORSP Precedence: bulk I think cutting. For me, nothing beats the thrill of successfully executing a really difficult cut. Or, when using a baroque or taffeta for a background where the swirls have to meet, getting them all cut without blowing on piece, and hence, the whole thing. (I'm also fond of that "whew, it's finished" feeling.) Kaye ------------------------- What is everyone else's Favorite part of the stained glass process. . . = ??? Cutting? The look on a clients face when they Love it?? Grinding? = Foiling? ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Jun 3 11:45:34 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 3 Jun 2002 11:22:34 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: Corpit.com!dterrill From: Dan Terrill To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: RE: Favorite Part of Stained Glass Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 14:13:15 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@Corpit.com> Precedence: bulk my favorite part is sitting there when it's almost done, putting a good polish to the glass. I love the way the glass glows when you polish it up really good. My least favorite part by far is foiling/burnishing. I like that a little bit less than dropping solder on my fingers! ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Jun 3 11:55:29 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 3 Jun 2002 11:24:35 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: stratus.com!Charlie.Spitzer From: "Spitzer, Charlie" To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain Subject: RE: Favorite Part of Stained Glass Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 10:32:00 -0700 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@stratus.com> Precedence: bulk finishing. regards, charlie cave creek, az ps: please don't send mime mail. > -----Original Message----- > From: Marci [mailto:mmam5@doorpi.net] > Sent: Monday, June 03, 2002 9:24 AM > To: glass@bungi.com > Subject: Favorite Part of Stained Glass > > > This is a multi-part message in MIME format. > > ------=_NextPart_000_0019_01C20AF1.335E2840 > Content-Type: text/plain; > charset="iso-8859-1" > Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable > > I LOVE TO SOLDER! I'm finishing up my second roll of solder on the = > first side of my big project! Whoo Hooo! :) > > What is everyone else's Favorite part of the stained glass > process. . . = > ??? Cutting? The look on a clients face when they Love it?? > Grinding? = > Foiling? > > > Marci > Martin Designs > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Jun 3 12:49:35 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 3 Jun 2002 12:37:34 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: cox.net!gunnx4 From: "Suzanne Gunn" To: "Marci" , Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Re: Favorite Part of Stained Glass Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 14:35:44 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@cox.net> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@doorpi.net>> Organization: glsasdancer Precedence: bulk My favorite part is getting it to where it's soldered on one side so that I can have someone else hold it upright so that I can look through it for the first time. Suzanne ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Jun 3 13:12:23 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 3 Jun 2002 12:43:36 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: cox.net!gunnx4 From: "Suzanne Gunn" To: "ellen hummert" , Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Re: nightmare... crack in glass as i finish the window.... Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 14:42:49 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@cox.net> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@hotmail.com>> Organization: glsasdancer Precedence: bulk Ellen.... If you built the panel for yourself...of course it's fine to keep the crack if you dont think it will drive you nuts sooner or later. It would be easiest to repair it now, since you still have the cartoon handy to recut your glass on. Keep in mind that people will be admiring it and asking about it etc... It's really a drag to have a crack from the very beginning. Personally, I'd repair it, then install it. The crack will steal some of your joy. But it's really up to *you*. If the panel is for someone else....**repair it**. I have no experience with strong line, but I wouldn't think it would be any more difficult to repair than any other copper foiled panel... one more reason to lead! ;o) Suzanne ----- Original Message ----- From: "ellen hummert" To: Sent: Sunday, June 02, 2002 3:42 PM Subject: nightmare... crack in glass as i finish the window.... > > > hi all - a very feint hairline crack appeared in a big triangular piece of > glass that's already soldered into a 6' (w) x 2' (h) window i'm just > finishing up - it's got strongline between the pieces there and would be > enormously painful to remove it. > > the window feels really strong - think it's ok to leave it in? > > thanks. > > _________________________________________________________________ ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Jun 3 13:20:24 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 3 Jun 2002 12:24:01 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: doorpi.net!mmam5 From: "Marci" To: "Dan Terrill" Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Re: Favorite Part of Stained Glass Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 14:05:24 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@doorpi.net> References: <> Precedence: bulk Yes! Polishing is another of my favorite times! I seem to have more of a problem knicking my fingers and nuckles while cutting the glass - I enjoy the feeling of accomplishment on great cuts - but I'm such a klutz with the finished unground pieces! ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dan Terrill" To: "'Marci'" Sent: Monday, June 03, 2002 12:27 PM Subject: RE: Favorite Part of Stained Glass > my favorite part is sitting there when it's almost done, putting a good > polish to the glass. I love the way the glass glows when you polish it up > really good. > > My least favorite part by far is foiling/burnishing. I like that a little > bit less than dropping solder on my fingers! > > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Jun 3 13:51:03 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 3 Jun 2002 13:42:26 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: aol.com!Bergju From: Bergju@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Subject: Re: Favorite Part of Stained Glass Date: Mon, 03 Jun 2002 16:36:42 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com> Precedence: bulk ah two things. the part where you have come up with a design, then actually pick out the glass to fit your imagined finished work. not to say mine actually turns out the way i imagined but i'm always pleasantly surprised. but it just feels good to have the glass in hand that will soon be in a project...and cutting. there is something almost spiritual about cutting a particular curve or shape and feeling the power of accomplishment when it breaks right on the line. ooooh! ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Jun 3 14:02:14 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 3 Jun 2002 13:32:18 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: doorpi.net!mmam5 From: "Marci" To: "Suzanne Gunn" , "ellen hummert" Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Re: nightmare... crack in glass as i finish the window.... Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 15:24:57 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@doorpi.net> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@cox.net>> Precedence: bulk Yes another reason to learn how to do lead! I see a class coming up for me! Marci ----- Original Message ----- From: "Suzanne Gunn" To: "ellen hummert" Sent: Monday, June 03, 2002 2:42 PM Subject: Re: nightmare... crack in glass as i finish the window.... > Ellen.... > > If you built the panel for yourself...of course it's fine to keep the crack > if you dont think it will drive you nuts sooner or later. It would be > easiest to repair it now, since you still have the cartoon handy to recut > your glass on. > > Keep in mind that people will be admiring it and asking about it etc... > It's really a drag to have a crack from the very beginning. > > Personally, I'd repair it, then install it. The crack will steal some of > your joy. But it's really up to *you*. > > If the panel is for someone else....**repair it**. > > I have no experience with strong line, but I wouldn't think it would be any > more difficult to repair than any other copper foiled panel... one more > reason to lead! ;o) > > Suzanne > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "ellen hummert" > To: > Sent: Sunday, June 02, 2002 3:42 PM > Subject: nightmare... crack in glass as i finish the window.... > > > > > > > > hi all - a very feint hairline crack appeared in a big triangular piece of > > glass that's already soldered into a 6' (w) x 2' (h) window i'm just > > finishing up - it's got strongline between the pieces there and would be > > enormously painful to remove it. > > > > the window feels really strong - think it's ok to leave it in? > > > > thanks. > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Jun 3 14:21:56 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 3 Jun 2002 13:57:08 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: gjr From: gjr@bungi.com (Glenna Rand) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Favorite part Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 13:55:46 PDT Message-ID: Precedence: bulk I think it's standing back and enjoying the finished piece. True appreciation... -- Glenna Rand gjr@bungi.com ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Jun 3 15:54:02 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 3 Jun 2002 15:21:47 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: cox.net!gunnx4 From: "Suzanne Gunn" To: "Marci" , Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Re: nightmare... crack in glass as i finish the window.... Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 17:21:15 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@cox.net> References: <<002201c20b3c$beb261e0$7b631c0c@jf5s401>> Organization: glsasdancer Precedence: bulk I wish you were in Tulsa. A class I was supposed to teach starting tonight was cancelled for a lack of enough students. :o( If you are anything like me, you will love lead. (lead repairs are much easier too, imho) Suzanne ----- Original Message ----- From: "Marci" To: "Suzanne Gunn" ; "ellen hummert" Cc: Sent: Monday, June 03, 2002 3:24 PM Subject: Re: nightmare... crack in glass as i finish the window.... > Yes another reason to learn how to do lead! I see a class coming up for me! > > Marci ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Jun 3 16:25:19 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 3 Jun 2002 15:50:52 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: erols.com!hmjacobs From: Herb Jacobs To: glass@bungi.com, elleshau@hotmail.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: re nightmare - hairline crack Date: Mon, 03 Jun 2002 18:51:35 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@erols.com> Precedence: bulk Don't despair yet, or do anything drastic. I know that there is a remarkable adhesive for repairing just such cracks. I don't have the name or manufacturer yet, but I'll try to find it. It has a very low surface tension, so even a hairline crack will suck it up. Also, it's index of refraction is very close to that of glass, so the crack disappears to the eye. I know it has been used in the repair of a rose window in the York cathedral in England, after a fire which caused many such cracks. Hang in there. Help is on the way. Herb Jacobs ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Jun 3 17:57:36 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 3 Jun 2002 17:42:02 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles From: "Christie A. Wood" To: Bungi Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Favorite Part of Stained Glass Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 19:52:39 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com> Precedence: bulk Message text written by "Marci" >What is everyone else's Favorite part of the stained glass process. . . = =3D ??? Cutting? The look on a clients face when they Love it?? Grinding? =3D= Foiling?< depositing the check Christie A. Wood Art Glass Ensembles/ArtWorks Denton, TX ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Jun 3 19:00:34 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 3 Jun 2002 18:36:50 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: hotmail.com!glassharpgallery From: "Susan Hood" To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed Subject: Gatewayed mail message Date: Mon, 03 Jun 2002 22:34:04 -0300 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@hotmail.com> Precedence: bulk My favorite part if designing and coming up with great ideas. I can work over a project in my mind in a hundred different ways, choosing glass combinations and letting my mind run wild. I just got asked to do toppers on 5 windows that are 51 inches wide. By the end of the afternoon I had 5 great designs, all of which will look stunning and they can pick whichever suits them, or we can alter one of them. As soon as I cut one piece of glass I'm committed and then it's just hard work until it's finished. the other part I love is when one side is soldered and you get a sneak preview of the piece when turning it over. I love this sharing of ideas and techniques. Keep it coming, Su _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Jun 3 20:03:47 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 3 Jun 2002 19:27:57 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: comcast.net!cecnralph From: Cecily & Ralph Wood To: Bungi Glass Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type=54455854; Subject: Re: Bird Feeders Date: Mon, 03 Jun 2002 22:25:23 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net> References: <<386470864.1022972049762.JavaMail.root@monkey>> Organization: Grendel Studio Precedence: bulk Sent this just to Steve (senior moment, of course). Cecily & Ralph Wood wrote: > It appears that at least SOME non-lead solders are ok with foodstufs. See Carn > solders: > > http://www.carnmetl.demon.co.uk/leadfree.htm > > See Canfield solders (3 ok with food) > > http://www.solders.com/stained.htm > > Most of the solders that are lead free contain tin, some copper, bismuth and > antimony and silver as well. The antimony tends to bind any remaining lead so it > cannot leach out. > > Tinware for eating is still being made. > > http://www.jarnaginco.com/cwcat18a.html > > It appears that the harmful tins were not originally smelted to a high enough > temperature to release the lead that is naturally occuring in it. > > So it seems that using leadfree solders in a birdhouse should be fine - or in > something like a bowl that would display fruit. To be particularly safe, use those > recommended by the manufacturer for use with food. - Cec > > "Stephen Richard s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk [bungier/Bungier]" wrote: > > > If I am correct, lead free solder still contains tin. If so, tin is a poison > too. > > > > Steve > > > > In message <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>, UserDusty@aol.com writes > > >Hi Everyone, > > > > > >I noticed it's been quiet lately. I've just finished a leaded glass class > > >and starting to layout some replacement doors for the wife's china cabinet. > > >It seems that the drawing part is taking forever. Been doing a lot of work > > >outside. It finally got warm here in Erie. Regarding the bird feeders I > > >agree that the lead free solder is the only kind to use. Some where in my > > >reading I ran across some candy dishes and it specified lead free only. > > >---- > > >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > > >To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > > >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > > > > -- > > > > Stephen Richard, Verrier > > "Glass on Parade" > > Glasgow, Scotland > > ---- > > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Jun 3 21:09:26 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 3 Jun 2002 20:42:55 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: doorpi.net!mmam5 From: "Marci" To: "Christie A. Wood" , "Bungi" Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Re: Favorite Part of Stained Glass Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 22:14:19 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@doorpi.net> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com>> Precedence: bulk HA ha - - yes - that too is a very nice plus! :) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Christie A. Wood" To: "Bungi" Sent: Monday, June 03, 2002 6:52 PM Subject: Favorite Part of Stained Glass > Message text written by "Marci" > >What is everyone else's Favorite part of the stained glass process. . . = > =3D > ??? Cutting? The look on a clients face when they Love it?? Grinding? =3D= > > Foiling?< > > depositing the check > > Christie A. Wood > Art Glass Ensembles/ArtWorks > Denton, TX > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Jun 3 22:40:38 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 3 Jun 2002 22:07:08 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: toolfair.com!fortune From: Richard Zhu To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="7582bc1e-77bb-11d6-9c7e-5254ab35d630" Subject: diamond tools Date: Tue, 04 Jun 2002 13:03:34 +0800 Message-ID: Precedence: bulk This is a multi-part message in MIME format --7582bc1e-77bb-11d6-9c7e-5254ab35d630 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Dear Sirs, Pls visit our web: www.toolfair.com , you will find various of diamond saw = blades for cutting concrete,asphalt, marble, granite, abrasive materials & = building materials,etc as well as other products such as abrasives related = to construction field. If you still have not found satisfied supplier in China, pls just try us, = maybe you will get a big surprise. Pls check our web: www.toolfair.com and then contact us. We are always = waiting for you 24 hours per day ! Tks n with b/rgds Richard Zhu e-mail: fortune@toolfair.com & toolfair@pub.sz.jsinfo.net --7582bc1e-77bb-11d6-9c7e-5254ab35d630-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Jun 3 23:10:53 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 3 Jun 2002 22:38:15 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: toolfair.com!fortune From: Richard Zhu To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="46639d09-77bf-11d6-9c7e-5254ab35d630" Subject: diamond tools Date: Tue, 04 Jun 2002 13:33:33 +0800 Message-ID: Precedence: bulk This is a multi-part message in MIME format --46639d09-77bf-11d6-9c7e-5254ab35d630 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Dear Sirs, Pls visit our web: www.toolfair.com , you will find various of diamond saw = blades for cutting concrete,asphalt, marble, granite, abrasive materials & = building materials,etc as well as other products such as abrasives related = to construction field. If you still have not found satisfied supplier in China, pls just try us, = maybe you will get a big surprise. Pls check our web: www.toolfair.com and then contact us. We are always = waiting for you 24 hours per day ! Tks n with b/rgds Richard Zhu e-mail: fortune@toolfair.com & toolfair@pub.sz.jsinfo.net --46639d09-77bf-11d6-9c7e-5254ab35d630-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Jun 4 09:23:27 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 4 Jun 2002 09:14:58 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: aol.com!GlassLites From: GlassLites@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Subject: Re: Favorite Part of Stained Glass Date: Tue, 04 Jun 2002 12:13:55 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com> Precedence: bulk > > Message text written by "Marci" > >What is everyone else's Favorite part of the stained glass process. . . = > > depositing the check > > Christie A. Wood I was going to say admiring the assembled piece just before soldering, but then I saw Christie's answer and have to agree. Depositing the check IS more fun. Cheryl Lowe Glass Lites Studio in NJ ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Jun 5 01:00:25 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 4 Jun 2002 19:29:05 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: doorpi.net!mmam5 From: "Marci" To: "Shari" , Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Re: Favorite Part Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 19:01:10 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@doorpi.net> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@mtcon.net>> Precedence: bulk It's really cool also when panels that the wife has picked out are installed and the husband is totally WOWed by them! :) Thanks Gang - that was fun to hear the many aspects we all enjoy about glass! Marci ----- Original Message ----- From: "Shari" To: Sent: Tuesday, June 04, 2002 11:46 AM Subject: Re: Favorite Part > Definitely NOT grinding and foiling. I will pay someone a small (very small) > fortune if you would come do that part for me! I like the lifting it up for > the first time and seeing light through it. Or seeing the relative's face > when they unwrap the gift. ;o) > Shari > Salt Lake City > > > > > > > > > Message text written by "Marci" > > > >What is everyone else's Favorite part of the stained glass process. . From owner-glass Wed Jun 5 10:24:02 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 5 Jun 2002 10:09:00 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: cs.sephora.com!customerservice From: customerservice@cs.sephora.com To: =?US-ASCII?Q?glass?= Content-Type: Multipart/Mixed; Subject: Re: (no subject) (Fwd By Digital Impact) - Request ID: [REQ:702388] <::ALKCHWW0HDA31BWU::> Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 10:08:37 -0700 (Pacific Daylight Time) Message-ID: <3CFE4595.00696E.02396@mcbean> Precedence: bulk --------------Boundary-00=_DYS8X7LZ5KXPJ8OK8WA1 Content-Type: Text/Plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Welcome to the world of Sephora. Thank you for contacting us! The Request Number for your inquiry is 702388. You can expect a response to your inquiry from one of our friendly Customer Service Representatives or Advisors. If you need to reply to this message, please do not delete the subject line of this email. If your matter is urgent and you need assistance right away, please do not hesitate to contact us at 1-877-SEPHORA between the hours of 6am-9pm PST M-F and 7am-7pm PST Sat & Sun. We look forward to assisting you. Sincerely, Sephora.com Customer Service -----Original Message----- From: glass Sent: 6/5/2002 10:02:35 AM To: customerservice@cs.sephora.com Subject: (no subject) (Fwd By Digital Impact) - Request ID: [REQ:702388] ------------------ Virus Warning Message (on scan1) Found virus WORM_KLEZ.H in file Bl.bat The uncleanable file is deleted. --------------------------------------------------------- --------------Boundary-00=_DYS8X7LZ5KXPJ8OK8WA1-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Jun 5 15:17:01 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 5 Jun 2002 15:07:08 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: aol.com!UserDusty From: UserDusty@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Subject: Re: Glass Dealer Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 18:04:45 EDT Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com> Precedence: bulk Hi everyone, I'm looking for a glass supplier in New Jersey. I think the name of the place is called Benheims. I think I have the name right. They carry German mouth blown glass. I would appreciate any info. Thanks in advance, Ken Osborne Decorative Glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Jun 5 15:38:38 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 5 Jun 2002 15:07:47 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: notification.messagelabs.com!alert From: alert@notification.messagelabs.com To: glass@bungi.com Subject: WARNING. You tried to send a potential virus or unauthorised code Date: 5 Jun 2002 22:04:13 -0000 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@notification.messagelabs.com> Precedence: bulk The MessageLabs SkyScan Anti-Virus service discovered a possible virus or unauthorised code (such as a joke program or trojan) in an email sent by you. The email has now been quarantined and was not delivered. Please read the whole of this email carefully. It explains what has happened to your email, which suspected virus has been caught and what to do if you need help addressing the problem. To help identify the quarantined email: The message sender was mmorin@sbcglobal.net glass@bungi.com The message recipients were bizdev@vibe.com The message title was EbStatusDesc( The message date was Wed, 5 Jun 2002 18:03:43 -0400 The virus or unauthorised code identified in the email is F-Secure Anti-Virus for i386-linux Release 4.13 build 3360 Frisk Software International F-PROT engine version 3.10 build 701 620231_2MAUDIO-X-WAV_CTversion.pif infection: W95/Klez.H@mm 3 files scanned 1 infections found Some viruses forge the sender address. For more information please visit the link to the virus FAQ's at the bottom of this page. The message was diverted into the virus holding pen on mail server server-3.tower-15.messagelabs.com (pen id 620231_1023314652) and will be held for 30 days before being destroyed Corporate Users: If you sent the email from a corporate network, you should first contact your local IT Helpdesk or System Administrator for advice. They will be able to help you disinfect your workstation. If you would like further information on how to subscribe to MessageLabs SkyScan AV service, a proactive anti-virus service working around the clock, around the globe, please complete our enquiry form. Personal or Home users: If you sent the email from a personal or home account, you will need to disinfect your computer yourself. Please contact your anti-virus software vendor for support. You may like to read the virus FAQ's at: http://www.messagelabs.com/page.asp?id=628 which will answer most virus related questions. ________________________________________________________________________ This email has been scanned for all viruses by the MessageLabs SkyScan service. For more information on a proactive anti-virus service working around the clock, around the globe, visit http://www.messagelabs.com ________________________________________________________________________ ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Jun 5 16:21:15 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 5 Jun 2002 15:56:15 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: stratus.com!Charlie.Spitzer From: "Spitzer, Charlie" To: "'UserDusty@aol.com'" , glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain Subject: RE: Glass Dealer Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 15:35:40 -0700 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@stratus.com> Precedence: bulk google is your friend. http://www.bendheim.com/ > -----Original Message----- > From: UserDusty@aol.com [mailto:UserDusty@aol.com] > Sent: Wednesday, June 05, 2002 3:05 PM > To: glass@bungi.com > Subject: Re: Glass Dealer > > > Hi everyone, > > I'm looking for a glass supplier in New Jersey. I think the > name of the place > is called Benheims. I think I have the name right. They carry > German mouth > blown glass. I would appreciate any info. > > Thanks in advance, > > Ken Osborne > Decorative Glass > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Jun 5 16:34:58 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 5 Jun 2002 16:09:37 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: aol.com!Awbaxter From: Awbaxter@aol.com To: UserDusty@aol.com, glass@bungi.com Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_111.1343d555.2a2ff3dc_boundary" Subject: Re: Glass Dealer Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 19:08:12 EDT Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com> Precedence: bulk --part1_111.1343d555.2a2ff3dc_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Bendheim | Homepage --part1_111.1343d555.2a2ff3dc_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Bendheim | Homepage --part1_111.1343d555.2a2ff3dc_boundary-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Jun 5 17:49:45 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 5 Jun 2002 17:27:15 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles From: "Christie A. Wood" To: Bungi Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Re: Glass Dealer Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 20:07:29 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com> Precedence: bulk Message text written by INTERNET:UserDusty@aol.com >I'm looking for a glass supplier in New Jersey. I think the name of the place = is called Benheims. I think I have the name right. They carry German mout= h = blown glass. I would appreciate any info. < S.A. Bendheim Co, Inc. 61 Willett Street Passaic, NJ 07055 1-800-221-7379 or 973-471-1733 fax 973-471-1640 email: info@bendheim.com Christie A. Wood Art Glass Ensembles/ArtWorks Denton, TX ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Jun 5 18:19:46 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 5 Jun 2002 17:56:38 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: comcast.net!esavad From: Mike Savad To: UserDusty@aol.com, glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Subject: RE: Glass Dealer Date: Wed, 05 Jun 2002 20:45:23 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net> Precedence: bulk go here http://www.bendheim.com/ that should help a bit ---Mike Savad --- Mike's Canon Powershot Pro90 IS - Photo Page 2 - http://www.pbase.com/savad - NEW --- Mike's Photosig Page - http://www.photosig.com/myphotos.php --- Mike's Canon Powershot Pro90 IS - Photo Page - http://www.savad.0catch.com/ --- Mike's Stained Glass - h Contains a wealth of stained glass information, stained glass tips, stained glass instruction, and many, many stained glass links. -----Original Message----- From: UserDusty@aol.com [mailto:UserDusty@aol.com] Sent: Wednesday, June 05, 2002 6:05 PM To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Glass Dealer Hi everyone, I'm looking for a glass supplier in New Jersey. I think the name of the place is called Benheims. I think I have the name right. They carry German mouth blown glass. I would appreciate any info. Thanks in advance, Ken Osborne Decorative Glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Jun 5 19:52:51 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 5 Jun 2002 19:46:51 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: Cimtel.net!JamesAdams From: "James Adams" To: "Glass" Content-Type: multipart/alternative; Subject: Unsubscribe Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 21:47:02 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@Cimtel.net> Precedence: bulk This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_002E_01C20CDA.86B5F230 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Please remove me from this mailing list. Someone on the list is sending out a virus and inserting me as the sender. I know they are not doing it intentionally, but it's just too big a problem for me. Thanks, James JamesAdams@Cimtel.net http://ntwww.cimtel.net/jamesadams ------=_NextPart_000_002E_01C20CDA.86B5F230 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Please remove me=20 from this mailing list. Someone on the list is sending out a virus and = inserting=20 me as the sender. I know they are not doing it intentionally, but it's = just too=20 big a problem for me.
 
Thanks,=20 James
 
JamesAdams@Cimtel.net
http://ntwww.cimtel.net/james= adams
 
------=_NextPart_000_002E_01C20CDA.86B5F230-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Jun 6 04:04:36 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 6 Jun 2002 03:27:39 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: aol.com!Glassartist02 From: Glassartist02@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_91.1e02e4e3.2a3092f9_boundary" Subject: You have a virus Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 06:27:05 EDT Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com> Precedence: bulk --part1_91.1e02e4e3.2a3092f9_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit You have a virus and my virus protection caught it. PLEASE TAKE CARE OF THIS. YOU ARE UNINTENTIONALLY SPREADING IT WITHIN OUR NEWSGROUP. This has been going on for the last week. I am thinking about deleting my name from our list. Thank you. --part1_91.1e02e4e3.2a3092f9_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit You have a virus and my virus protection caught it.  PLEASE TAKE CARE OF THIS.

YOU ARE UNINTENTIONALLY SPREADING IT WITHIN OUR NEWSGROUP.

This has been going on for the last week.  I am thinking about deleting my name from our list.

Thank you. --part1_91.1e02e4e3.2a3092f9_boundary-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Jun 6 06:05:57 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 6 Jun 2002 05:55:50 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: aol.com!CUngv From: CUngv@aol.com To: Glassartist02@aol.com, glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Subject: Re: You have a virus Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 08:54:24 EDT Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com> Precedence: bulk What can/should Bungi do to stop the unintentional spread of this virus? All of these virus notifications make me nervous. Also, is my machine protected so long as I do not open any attachments, or is it enough to simply open an infected email? Please, everyone, put a glass related phrase in the subject line. I am very cautious about what I open, and because some people assume the rest of us will know that it is glass related, even if the subject line is far from glass related, I often delete emails which might have been of interest to me. I assume that the viruses that have been spread via bungi do not come with a glass related subject line. Thanks for your attention, Carolyn Gilinsky ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Jun 6 07:11:09 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 6 Jun 2002 06:53:34 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: acesag.auburn.edu!fdillman From: Frank Dillman To: CUngv@aol.com, glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: Bungi: Reply Date: Thu, 06 Jun 2002 08:50:55 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@acesag.auburn.edu> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>> Precedence: bulk I like Carolyn's idea of a glass related phrase in the subject line. Or, typing "Bungi" as the first word in all subject lines. A little extra effort but once the habit is established one would only have to scan their mail box and delete unwanted and suspicious emails before opening. Frank CUngv@aol.com wrote: > > What can/should Bungi do to stop the unintentional spread of this virus? All > of these virus notifications make me nervous. > > Also, is my machine protected so long as I do not open any attachments, or is > it enough to simply open an infected email? > > Please, everyone, put a glass related phrase in the subject line. I am very > cautious about what I open, and because some people assume the rest of us > will know that it is glass related, even if the subject line is far from > glass related, I often delete emails which might have been of interest to me. > > I assume that the viruses that have been spread via bungi do not come with a > glass related subject line. > > Thanks for your attention, > Carolyn Gilinsky > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Jun 6 07:39:44 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 6 Jun 2002 07:06:26 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: hotmail.com!elleshau From: "ellen hummert" To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed Subject: Re: nightmare solution! for the crack in glass as i finish the window.... Date: Thu, 06 Jun 2002 14:03:54 +0000 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@hotmail.com> Precedence: bulk Just FYI all: wanted to share what I think will be a great solution to this awful hairline crack that just happened on my nearly complete 6' x 2' window panel. it's the main part of my husband's tennis group's logo (3 mtns. w/ a huge tennis ball 'sun' behind it)... i'm creating some wavy/clear/whispy white 'clouds' that will be breezing by, in front of the mountains. the overlay will go over that area with the issue... just wanted to share the idea in case anyone else gets into a jam like this, after putting a lot of work into something that might be salvaged/'enhanced' with overlays. --ellen abfabglass.com _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Jun 6 10:50:31 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 6 Jun 2002 10:30:32 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: sympatico.ca!ron.amero From: "Ron Amero" To: , Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: RE: You have a virus Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 13:28:52 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@sympatico.ca> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>> Precedence: bulk I hesitate to say this but it is critical nowadays to use a GOOD antivirus program all the time, either a commercial or freebee program, and most importantly, keep the virus signature files up to date. Norton Antivirus (the one I use now) updates its virus signature files two or three times a week -- that's an indication of how many new viruses there are. If the freebee program does not have weekly virus file updates, dump the program and get one that does. Have the program scan ALL incoming emails and attachments, as well as scanning your outgoing emails. Then, you don't have to be concerned about "suspicious" emails! BTW, I reported a virus to Bungi several weeks ago and was told by the administrator that since they used a Unix server, it was immune to these windows viruses and the server would not transmit a virus (hopefully paraphrased correctly). Not sure how it happened in that case but one of the emails I received from Bungi was infected! -----Original Message----- From: CUngv@aol.com [mailto:CUngv@aol.com] Sent: Thursday, June 06, 2002 8:54 AM To: Glassartist02@aol.com; glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: You have a virus What can/should Bungi do to stop the unintentional spread of this virus? All of these virus notifications make me nervous. Also, is my machine protected so long as I do not open any attachments, or is it enough to simply open an infected email? Please, everyone, put a glass related phrase in the subject line. I am very cautious about what I open, and because some people assume the rest of us will know that it is glass related, even if the subject line is far from glass related, I often delete emails which might have been of interest to me. I assume that the viruses that have been spread via bungi do not come with a glass related subject line. Thanks for your attention, Carolyn Gilinsky ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Jun 6 12:22:07 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 6 Jun 2002 11:43:15 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: slonet.org!edupjohn From: "Peggy W. Johnsen" To: UserDusty@aol.com Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Subject: Re: Glass Dealer Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 11:40:28 -0700 (PDT) Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@slonet.org> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>> Precedence: bulk Ken, you are looking for Bendheims East. Look in any of your SG magazines and there will be an advertisement for them. PJ ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Jun 6 13:59:59 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 6 Jun 2002 13:27:24 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: dlr From: dlr@bungi.com (Dave Rand) To: CUngv@aol.com, Glassartist02@aol.com, glass@bungi.com, Subject: Re: You have a virus Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 13:26:25 PDT Message-ID: Precedence: bulk [In the message entitled "Re: You have a virus" on Jun 6, 8:54, CUngv@aol.com writes:] > What can/should Bungi do to stop the unintentional spread of this virus? All > of these virus notifications make me nervous. > > Also, is my machine protected so long as I do not open any attachments, or is > it enough to simply open an infected email? > > Please, everyone, put a glass related phrase in the subject line. I am very > cautious about what I open, and because some people assume the rest of us > will know that it is glass related, even if the subject line is far from > glass related, I often delete emails which might have been of interest to me. > > I assume that the viruses that have been spread via bungi do not come with a > glass related subject line. > Sigh. I'll Try Again. No viruses "come from" or are "spread by" bungi.com. Period. End of statement. The Klez.H and Klez.E viruses (and many other varients) *FORGE THE FROM: LINE* so that it may look like it came from glass@bungi.com, but it never goes through here. Check the mail headers. The simplest, and best way to prevent the spread of viruses is to stop using broken mail clients, namely outlook, which permit the viruses to spread. You should also use, and upgrade frequently, anti-virus software on your computers. Never, ever, under any circumstances, open an attachment where you do not know the sender, and exactly what is in the attachment. -- Dave Rand dlr@bungi.com ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Jun 6 14:25:51 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 6 Jun 2002 14:09:38 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: comcast.net!esavad From: Mike Savad To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Subject: RE: You have a virus Date: Thu, 06 Jun 2002 16:45:21 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net> Precedence: bulk what i don't get it is, you can't send a jpg, but you can send s virus? i wonder why? ---Mike Savad --- Mike's Canon Powershot Pro90 IS - Photo Page 2 - http://www.pbase.com/savad - NEW --- Mike's Photosig Page - http://www.photosig.com/userphotos.php?id=9050 --- Mike's Canon Powershot Pro90 IS - Photo Page - http://www.savad.0catch.com/ --- Mike's Stained Glass - http://w Contains a wealth of stained glass information, stained glass tips, stained glass instruction, and many, many stained glass links. -----Original Message----- From: CUngv@aol.com [mailto:CUngv@aol.com] Sent: Thursday, June 06, 2002 8:54 AM To: Glassartist02@aol.com; glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: You have a virus What can/should Bungi do to stop the unintentional spread of this virus? All of these virus notifications make me nervous. Also, is my machine protected so long as I do not open any attachments, or is it enough to simply open an infected email? Please, everyone, put a glass related phrase in the subject line. I am very cautious about what I open, and because some people assume the rest of us will know that it is glass related, even if the subject line is far from glass related, I often delete emails which might have been of interest to me. I assume that the viruses that have been spread via bungi do not come with a glass related subject line. Thanks for your attention, Carolyn Gilinsky ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Jun 6 14:57:32 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 6 Jun 2002 14:23:45 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: doorpi.net!mmam5 From: "Marci" To: "Ron Amero" , Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: virus protection Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 15:52:24 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@doorpi.net> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@sympatico.ca>> Precedence: bulk It really is worth the $$ to just invest in either Norton or McAfee - either one. . . the newest version of Norton - checks just about each day - on it's own! You don't have to set up a "check" time or date. It's wonderful to know your computer is "safe". Kind of like putting oil in your car - you have to do it to keep your machine running smoothly! ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ron Amero" To: Sent: Thursday, June 06, 2002 12:28 PM Subject: RE: You have a virus > I hesitate to say this but it is critical nowadays to use a GOOD antivirus > program all the time, either a commercial or freebee program, and most > importantly, keep the virus signature files up to date. Norton Antivirus > (the one I use now) updates its virus signature files two or three times a > week -- that's an indication of how many new viruses there are. If the > freebee program does not have weekly virus file updates, dump the program > and get one that does. Have the program scan ALL incoming emails and > attachments, as well as scanning your outgoing emails. Then, you don't have > to be concerned about "suspicious" emails! > > BTW, I reported a virus to Bungi several weeks ago and was told by the > administrator that since they used a Unix server, it was immune to these > windows viruses and the server would not transmit a virus (hopefully > paraphrased correctly). Not sure how it happened in that case but one of > the emails I received from Bungi was infected! > > -----Original Message----- > From: CUngv@aol.com [mailto:CUngv@aol.com] > Sent: Thursday, June 06, 2002 8:54 AM > To: Glassartist02@aol.com; glass@bungi.com > Subject: Re: You have a virus > > What can/should Bungi do to stop the unintentional spread of this virus? > All > of these virus notifications make me nervous. > > Also, is my machine protected so long as I do not open any attachments, or > is > it enough to simply open an infected email? > > Please, everyone, put a glass related phrase in the subject line. I am very > cautious about what I open, and because some people assume the rest of us > will know that it is glass related, even if the subject line is far from > glass related, I often delete emails which might have been of interest to > me. > > I assume that the viruses that have been spread via bungi do not come with a > glass related subject line. > > Thanks for your attention, > Carolyn Gilinsky > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > > > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Jun 6 15:37:14 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 6 Jun 2002 14:41:08 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: aol.com!CUngv From: CUngv@aol.com To: dlr@bungi.com, Glassartist02@aol.com, glass@bungi.com, gjr@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Subject: Re: You have a virus Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 17:34:58 EDT Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com> Precedence: bulk Dear Dave Rand, and everyone else following this thread, First, I apologize for my ignorance of most things computer-related. I did not mean to suggest that Bungi was being negligent in any way. Nonetheless, it seems that those of us who subscribe to Bungi end up with our e-mail addresses being waylaid by viruses lurking in other subscribers computers. I still believe that if we would remember to use "Bungi" or to be sure our headings were glass-related, we would cut down on the spread of viruses while still being able to enjoy the wonderful information Bungi gives us access to. By the way, today I updated my "freebie" Anti-virus program, which I am embarrassed to admit had not been updated for many weeks, and found a trojan horse virus. It is definitely a good idea to update every few days. My husband, an Information Technology guy (thus my ignorance), told me about a virus at his company that he had much trouble deleting today. All of the bosses' computers were infected. They sent email to people with the subject, "CHECK OUT THESE GIRLS!" I doubt that they were amused. Dave, I thoroughly enjoy Bungi and apologize if I misspoke. Carolyn Gilinsky ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Jun 6 16:58:13 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 6 Jun 2002 16:41:49 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: doorpi.net!mmam5 From: "Marci" To: "ellen hummert" , Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Re: nightmare solution! for the crack in glass as i finish the window.... Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 16:15:51 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@doorpi.net> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@hotmail.com>> Precedence: bulk That sounds great! I hope you post the finished panel so we can all enjoy it! Marci ----- Original Message ----- From: "ellen hummert" To: Sent: Thursday, June 06, 2002 9:03 AM Subject: Re: nightmare solution! for the crack in glass as i finish the window.... > Just FYI all: > > wanted to share what I think will be a great solution to this awful hairline > crack that just happened on my nearly complete 6' x 2' window panel. > > it's the main part of my husband's tennis group's logo (3 mtns. w/ a huge > tennis ball 'sun' behind it)... i'm creating some wavy/clear/whispy white > 'clouds' that will be breezing by, in front of the mountains. > > the overlay will go over that area with the issue... just wanted to share > the idea in case anyone else gets into a jam like this, after putting a lot > of work into something that might be salvaged/'enhanced' with overlays. > > --ellen > abfabglass.com > > _________________________________________________________________ > Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com > > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Jun 7 12:22:44 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 7 Jun 2002 12:14:58 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: earthlink.net!blmoon From: Allison Pearson To: glass@bungi.com Subject: [No Subject] Date: Fri, 07 Jun 2002 10:49:04 -0700 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@earthlink.net> Precedence: bulk ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Jun 7 17:06:09 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 7 Jun 2002 16:48:10 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: aol.com!CUngv From: CUngv@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Subject: Bungi: Help with glass selection? Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2002 19:45:07 EDT Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com> Precedence: bulk I am hoping that someone out there has some helpful advice. I have designed a lamp somewhat similar to a Tiffany lamp known as "Tulip on Blue." There is a picture of a reproduction of the Tiffany lamp on the Whittmore Durgin site at: http://www.penrose.com/glass/onlinecatalog.html. (I have never ordered from this company, but I sometimes read their catalogue just for the amusement value. If you never have, you should check it out.) Anyway, they offer a package with the lamp form, pattern and glass. All I need for my lamp is the glass. I am thinking that I will use Youghiogheny High Strike and Stipple glass, but I don't know which glass to use. I am a full time mom with three kids, including a two-year-old, and of necessity, my trips to the local glass shop are hurried affairs. For this lamp I would really like to use the right glass. I want a mix of red and yellow for the tulips, a yellow-green mix for the foliage, yellow for the bands, and a vibrant blue for the background. Can anyone point me in the right direction so that I can either make a quick trip to the local shop, or if they don't carry it, perhaps order it? I love to take my time and pick out just the right combination of glass, but I suspect that I can do no better than the many glass artists who have already attempted to duplicate this Tiffany lamp. Any suggestions? Thank you in advance for your assistance. Carolyn Gilinsky ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Jun 7 22:30:32 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 7 Jun 2002 22:00:57 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: verizon.net!moya.oneal From: "Moya O'Neal" To: Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: RE: Help with glass selection Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2002 00:59:52 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@verizon.net> Precedence: bulk Carolyn, The web sites of many glass manufacturers offer color samples of their glass. Not the best way to select, but certainly a good way to preview glasses to look at when you get to the glass store. For example, www.uroboros.com, www.spectrumglass.com or www.youghiogheny.com should be a good beginning. By using www.Google.com and searching for stained glass manufacturers you should get some good sites as well. Good luck, Moya ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Jun 8 03:49:55 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sat, 8 Jun 2002 03:31:03 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: aol.com!UserDusty From: UserDusty@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Subject: Re:You Have a Virus Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2002 06:25:47 EDT Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com> Precedence: bulk Hi All, This is not a plug for a virus program but have been using Norton Internet Security for a long time. Knock on wood have never picked up a virus. It auto-updates and is easy to use. It also has a firewall, parental controls and Spam software. Well, worth the bucks. Like everyone else I have to much money invested to have it ruined. I also agree any postings to Bungi should be glass related. I have learned a lot from you people at Bungi and thanks for the info on the glass dealer. Thanks for your time, Ken Osborne Decorative Glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Jun 8 06:26:34 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sat, 8 Jun 2002 06:09:00 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: aol.com!CUngv From: CUngv@aol.com To: moya.oneal@verizon.net, glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Subject: Bungi: Help with glass selection Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2002 09:05:45 EDT Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com> Precedence: bulk Moya, Thanks for your suggestion about looking at samples online. I have tried that, but frankly, the monitor on my laptop is terrible and I really can't get a feel for the glass from pictures, either at the manufacturer's websites or from retail catalogues, such as Delphi or Warner Crivallero. Nonetheless, if all else fails, I will note some that catch my eye, and head off to the store. Carolyn Gilinsky ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Jun 8 14:47:12 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sat, 8 Jun 2002 14:28:45 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: doorpi.net!mmam5 From: "Marci" To: Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Better Solder?? Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2002 16:03:18 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@doorpi.net> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>> Precedence: bulk Hi Gang Hope ya'll are enjoying your weekend. I usually buy my solder on-line thru SGW - pretty cheap if buying 6 or more rolls. Unfortunately I ran out soldering my latest project and didn't feel like waiting a week for mail order - My local shop charges $7.95 and $5.95 for solder - I asked, "What's the difference??" The owner stated that the more expensive stuff leaves a better finish. Isn't 60/40 solder, 60/40 solder?? How do they make it better? filter the lead before they make it into solder? I've never had a problem with flow, clean up or shine using my $4.00 rolls. I'm sure the store owner didn't mean to insinuate that my project would be substandard by using the cheaper rolls. But it would be nice to know if there IS a difference. The flow difference between 50/50 and 60/40 is very obvious, and I'm sure between leadless and 60/40 there are major differences too. Any comments are more than welcome! Thanks, Marci Martin Designs ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Jun 8 17:19:03 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sat, 8 Jun 2002 17:00:14 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: doorpi.net!mmam5 From: "Marci" To: Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Re: Better Solder?? Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2002 18:27:50 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@doorpi.net> References: <<18.205cc96d.2a33d752@aol.com>> Precedence: bulk That's how I feel - - my clients have always been thrilled. My solder lines are smooth, intersections seamless and Projects I've done 10-12 years ago have withstood time with no problems, so maybe it's more of a personal preference! :) I'll check out the link! Thanks! Marci ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Saturday, June 08, 2002 4:55 PM Subject: Re: Better Solder?? > Marci, > > You might get better answers from the chemical geniuses on Bungi but could it > have anything to do with the way the tin was smelted? Check out this www > page. http://www.carnmetl.demon.co.uk/tinindex.htm > > I know the Canfield has always said their solder is superior....I want people > to look at my glass and the total design not the solder, so it never mattered > to me how shiny the solder is. > > Pat > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Jun 9 10:47:42 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 9 Jun 2002 10:22:10 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: aol.com!CUngv From: CUngv@aol.com To: mmam5@doorpi.net, glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Subject: Re: Better Solder?? Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2002 13:18:23 EDT Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com> Precedence: bulk Marci, I have been experimenting with lead-free solder, which not only costs more than 60/40 and 50/50, but is much harder to work with and looks worse when fininshed! I must say that I have found through trial and error that different fluxes make a world of difference. Anyway, we may all have to switch to lead-free at some point. My point here is, it is all relative. When I finished my latest panel, it had taken longer, because it is difficult with lead free to get a smooth bead after one or two passes of the iron; it sometimes takes many more for me, but it looked fine. It polished up OK and with patina and wax, I doubt that anyone but an expert would notice any difference. If you are satisfied with the finished product, don't concern yourself too much. I share your curiosity about the various properties of different brands of 60/40 solder, much as I wonder about the different properties of "lead free" solder. Some will tell you that Fry is the easiest to work with, but I am not so sure. Carolyn Gilinsky ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Jun 9 16:32:45 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 9 Jun 2002 16:21:53 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard From: Stephen Richard To: Marci Content-Type: text/plain;charset=us-ascii Subject: Re: Better Solder?? Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2002 23:20:04 +0100 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@verrier> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@doorpi.net>> Precedence: bulk Marci, It may be that the person meant that 60/40 leaves a better finish on a copper foiled piece. If so, I agree. The 40/60 and often the 50/50 leaves an alligator type of pattern on its surface. I'm not sure how the refining process would affect the finished solder. Impurities would tend to float to the surface, leaving some residue or pitting perhaps. In the UK we use blowpipe solder that comes in sticks, not rolls. Steve In message <1970Jan1.000.0@doorpi.net>, Marci writes >Hi Gang > >Hope ya'll are enjoying your weekend. > >I usually buy my solder on-line thru SGW - pretty cheap if buying 6 or more >rolls. Unfortunately I ran out soldering my latest project and didn't feel >like waiting a week for mail order - My local shop charges $7.95 and $5.95 >for solder - I asked, "What's the difference??" The owner stated that >the more expensive stuff leaves a better finish. Isn't 60/40 solder, 60/40 >solder?? How do they make it better? filter the lead before they make it >into solder? I've never had a problem with flow, clean up or shine using >my $4.00 rolls. I'm sure the store owner didn't mean to insinuate that my >project would be substandard by using the cheaper rolls. But it would be >nice to know if there IS a difference. > >The flow difference between 50/50 and 60/40 is very obvious, and I'm sure >between leadless and 60/40 there are major differences too. > >Any comments are more than welcome! Thanks, > >Marci >Martin Designs > > > >---- >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com >To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass -- Stephen Richard, Verrier "Glass on Parade" Glasgow, Scotland ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Jun 9 18:38:48 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 9 Jun 2002 18:21:23 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: comcast.net!cecnralph From: Cecily & Ralph Wood To: "CUngv@aol.com [bungier/Bungier]" Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed Subject: Re: Better Solder?? Date: Sun, 09 Jun 2002 19:53:17 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net> References: <<1049857952.1023645313936.JavaMail.root@monkey>> Organization: Grendel Studio Precedence: bulk This - using the lead-free alternatives - is something I'm going to experiment with. But from the reading I've done so far, I think you have to use a higher heat, and you have less "play" time, so if you are used to going back and forth, or tap tap tap you will find that that will not work as well as the lead solders. However, the action of the solder should be more "eutectic" (sp?) meaning that it sets up much faster, so it will react more like the soldiers used for fancy soldering. So if you can initially run a bead well, it should set up and hold, so you don't need to go back and forth. Mind you, I haven't tried it, but that's just from reading. As for Fry, I don't like their regular solders, but couldn't tell you why. I much prefer Hirsch or Canfield. - Cec CUngv@aol.com [bungier/Bungier] wrote: >Marci, > >I have been experimenting with lead-free solder, which not only costs more >than 60/40 and 50/50, but is much harder to work with and looks worse when >fininshed! I must say that I have found through trial and error that >different fluxes make a world of difference. > >Anyway, we may all have to switch to lead-free at some point. > >My point here is, it is all relative. When I finished my latest panel, it had >taken longer, because it is difficult with lead free to get a smooth bead >after one or two passes of the iron; it sometimes takes many more for me, but >it looked fine. It polished up OK and with patina and wax, I doubt that >anyone but an expert would notice any difference. > >If you are satisfied with the finished product, don't concern yourself too >much. > >I share your curiosity about the various properties of different brands of >60/40 solder, much as I wonder about the different properties of "lead free" >solder. Some will tell you that Fry is the easiest to work with, but I am >not so sure. > >Carolyn Gilinsky >---- >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com >To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > > -- ********************************************************************* * Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood and/or Ralph Bernard Wood * Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy) ********************************************************************* ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Jun 9 20:11:58 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 9 Jun 2002 20:03:02 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: doorpi.net!mmam5 From: "Marci" To: , Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Re: Better Solder?? Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2002 21:55:44 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@doorpi.net> References: <<4d.1f49335d.2a34e7df@aol.com>> Precedence: bulk I found some 50/50 on my shelf and tried using that on a project in February - blech!! I thought at first I was having problems with my iron! Quickly switched back to the 60/40 and felt muuch better! I've not noticed a difference between canfield or fry - and tonight I'll be using the "substandard" 60/40 Glass Pro! Other things that come into play while soldering - - wattage of the iron - 80 watts is pretty lame for bigger projects. Also the weather up here in the north seems to make a big difference! Sure wish it would warm up a bit! I'll have to try the leadfree - maybe once summer gets warmed up! Thanks for your help! Marci ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; Sent: Sunday, June 09, 2002 12:18 PM Subject: Re: Better Solder?? > Marci, > > I have been experimenting with lead-free solder, which not only costs more > than 60/40 and 50/50, but is much harder to work with and looks worse when > fininshed! I must say that I have found through trial and error that > different fluxes make a world of difference. > > Anyway, we may all have to switch to lead-free at some point. > > My point here is, it is all relative. When I finished my latest panel, it had > taken longer, because it is difficult with lead free to get a smooth bead > after one or two passes of the iron; it sometimes takes many more for me, but > it looked fine. It polished up OK and with patina and wax, I doubt that > anyone but an expert would notice any difference. > > If you are satisfied with the finished product, don't concern yourself too > much. > > I share your curiosity about the various properties of different brands of > 60/40 solder, much as I wonder about the different properties of "lead free" > solder. Some will tell you that Fry is the easiest to work with, but I am > not so sure. > > Carolyn Gilinsky > > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Jun 9 20:43:03 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 9 Jun 2002 20:06:47 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: comcast.net!cecnralph From: Cecily & Ralph Wood To: Bungi Glass Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed Subject: Re: Better Solder?? Date: Sun, 09 Jun 2002 23:04:41 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net> References: <<1918490067.1023673756967.JavaMail.root@monkey>> Organization: Grendel Studio Precedence: bulk > This - using the lead-free alternatives - is something I'm going to > experiment with. But from the reading I've done so far, I think you > have to use a higher heat, and you have less "play" time, so if you > are used to going back and forth, or tap tap tap you will find that > that will not work as well as the lead solders. However, the action > of the solder should be more "eutectic" (sp?) meaning that it sets up > much faster, so it will react more like the soldiers used for fancy > soldering. So if you can initially run a bead well, it should set up > and hold, so you don't need to go back and forth. Mind you, I haven't > tried it, but that's just from reading. > > As for Fry, I don't like their regular solders, but couldn't tell you > why. I much prefer Hirsch or Canfield. - Cec > > CUngv@aol.com [bungier/Bungier] wrote: > >> Marci, >> >> I have been experimenting with lead-free solder, which not only costs >> more than 60/40 and 50/50, but is much harder to work with and looks >> worse when fininshed! I must say that I have found through trial and >> error that different fluxes make a world of difference. >> >> Anyway, we may all have to switch to lead-free at some point. >> My point here is, it is all relative. When I finished my latest >> panel, it had taken longer, because it is difficult with lead free to >> get a smooth bead after one or two passes of the iron; it sometimes >> takes many more for me, but it looked fine. It polished up OK and >> with patina and wax, I doubt that anyone but an expert would notice >> any difference. >> >> If you are satisfied with the finished product, don't concern >> yourself too much. >> I share your curiosity about the various properties of different >> brands of 60/40 solder, much as I wonder about the different >> properties of "lead free" solder. Some will tell you that Fry is the >> easiest to work with, but I am not so sure. >> >> Carolyn Gilinsky >> ---- >> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com >> To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com >> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass >> >> > -- ********************************************************************* * Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood and/or Ralph Bernard Wood * Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy) ********************************************************************* ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Jun 9 20:52:35 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 9 Jun 2002 20:10:21 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: comcast.net!cecnralph From: Cecily & Ralph Wood To: Bungi Glass Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed Subject: Re: Better Solder?? Date: Sun, 09 Jun 2002 23:07:14 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net> References: <<350852560.1023666170011.JavaMail.root@monkey>> Organization: Grendel Studio Precedence: bulk If I've understood things correctly, the 60/40 sets up sooner than the 50/50 or the 40/60 (which I never even see around here), so the longer the set may reflect a sort of "wave" action to give the alligator appearence. I've also seen solder referred to as "virgin" solder meaning there were no impurities in it (meant for decorative purposes) rather than similar solders used in plumbing, etc. where looks don't matter. And some impurities come from using too much flux. And the lead-free solders apparently always give a bright silvery look, so you don't get that pewter look that looks best with lead came. But I think you are supposed to be able to patina it, like normal. One mention we haven't hit on is the flux, when dealing with the leadfree issue. I think some fluxes have lead or other heavy metals. And some are downright nasty chemicals - very caustic or burning, and the fumes are not for breathing, either. But for those of us in the US, you may not know that one favored flux in the UK is tallow - plain old beef fat. Actually any meat fat (oliec acid)(sp?) will do, as long as impurities are removed. You can actually buy what look to be candles, only they have no wick, and rub the "candle" where you want to solder and bingo! It will leave wee bit of grease on your project. With came, that really doesn't matter since the putty process will remove that. But I tried it on a foiled panel and it worked just fine, as long as you can wash the piece afterward. I wouldn't try that on multilayered pieces, though. If you can't find them here in the US, you can always order them from glass suppliers in the UK who are on the web. The only expensive thing about them is going to be shipping. And the only harmful thing is you get hungry smelling the cooked beef smell (like McDonald's Fries?). - Cec Stephen Richard s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk [bungier/Bungier] wrote: >Marci, > It may be that the person meant that 60/40 leaves a better >finish on a copper foiled piece. If so, I agree. The 40/60 and often >the 50/50 leaves an alligator type of pattern on its surface. > I'm not sure how the refining process would affect the finished >solder. Impurities would tend to float to the surface, leaving some >residue or pitting perhaps. > In the UK we use blowpipe solder that comes in sticks, not >rolls. > >Steve > > >In message <1970Jan1.000.0@doorpi.net>, Marci writes > >>Hi Gang >> >>Hope ya'll are enjoying your weekend. >> >>I usually buy my solder on-line thru SGW - pretty cheap if buying 6 or more >>rolls. Unfortunately I ran out soldering my latest project and didn't feel >>like waiting a week for mail order - My local shop charges $7.95 and $5.95 >>for solder - I asked, "What's the difference??" The owner stated that >>the more expensive stuff leaves a better finish. Isn't 60/40 solder, 60/40 >>solder?? How do they make it better? filter the lead before they make it >>into solder? I've never had a problem with flow, clean up or shine using >>my $4.00 rolls. I'm sure the store owner didn't mean to insinuate that my >>project would be substandard by using the cheaper rolls. But it would be >>nice to know if there IS a difference. >> >>The flow difference between 50/50 and 60/40 is very obvious, and I'm sure >>between leadless and 60/40 there are major differences too. >> >>Any comments are more than welcome! Thanks, >> >>Marci >>Martin Designs >> >> >> >>---- >>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com >>To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com >>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass >> > -- ********************************************************************* * Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood and/or Ralph Bernard Wood * Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy) ********************************************************************* ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Jun 10 08:00:04 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 10 Jun 2002 07:23:28 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: doorpi.net!mmam5 From: "Marci" To: "Cecily & Ralph Wood" , Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Re: Better Solder?? Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 09:01:21 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@doorpi.net> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net>> Precedence: bulk Hmmm - Tallow - sounds like a healthier idea - - would the fumes from that wreak havoc on my colestrerol levels!??? ;-) Marci ----- Original Message ----- From: "Cecily & Ralph Wood" To: "Bungi Glass" Sent: Sunday, June 09, 2002 10:07 PM Subject: Re: Better Solder?? > > If I've understood things correctly, the 60/40 sets up sooner than the > 50/50 or the 40/60 (which I never even see around here), so the longer > the set may reflect a sort of "wave" action to give the alligator > appearence. I've also seen solder referred to as "virgin" solder > meaning there were no impurities in it (meant for decorative purposes) > rather than similar solders used in plumbing, etc. where looks don't > matter. And some impurities come from using too much flux. > > And the lead-free solders apparently always give a bright silvery look, > so you don't get that pewter look that looks best with lead came. But I > think you are supposed to be able to patina it, like normal. > > One mention we haven't hit on is the flux, when dealing with the > leadfree issue. I think some fluxes have lead or other heavy metals. > And some are downright nasty chemicals - very caustic or burning, and > the fumes are not for breathing, either. But for those of us in the US, > you may not know that one favored flux in the UK is tallow - plain old > beef fat. Actually any meat fat (oliec acid)(sp?) will do, as long as > impurities are removed. You can actually buy what look to be candles, > only they have no wick, and rub the "candle" where you want to solder > and bingo! It will leave wee bit of grease on your project. With came, > that really doesn't matter since the putty process will remove that. But > I tried it on a foiled panel and it worked just fine, as long as you can > wash the piece afterward. I wouldn't try that on multilayered pieces, > though. If you can't find them here in the US, you can always order > them from glass suppliers in the UK who are on the web. The only > expensive thing about them is going to be shipping. And the only > harmful thing is you get hungry smelling the cooked beef smell (like > McDonald's Fries?). - Cec > > Stephen Richard s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk [bungier/Bungier] > wrote: > > >Marci, > > It may be that the person meant that 60/40 leaves a better > >finish on a copper foiled piece. If so, I agree. The 40/60 and often > >the 50/50 leaves an alligator type of pattern on its surface. > > I'm not sure how the refining process would affect the finished > >solder. Impurities would tend to float to the surface, leaving some > >residue or pitting perhaps. > > In the UK we use blowpipe solder that comes in sticks, not > >rolls. > > > >Steve > > > > > >In message <1970Jan1.000.0@doorpi.net>, Marci writes > > > >>Hi Gang > >> > >>Hope ya'll are enjoying your weekend. > >> > >>I usually buy my solder on-line thru SGW - pretty cheap if buying 6 or more > >>rolls. Unfortunately I ran out soldering my latest project and didn't feel > >>like waiting a week for mail order - My local shop charges $7.95 and $5.95 > >>for solder - I asked, "What's the difference??" The owner stated that > >>the more expensive stuff leaves a better finish. Isn't 60/40 solder, 60/40 > >>solder?? How do they make it better? filter the lead before they make it > >>into solder? I've never had a problem with flow, clean up or shine using > >>my $4.00 rolls. I'm sure the store owner didn't mean to insinuate that my > >>project would be substandard by using the cheaper rolls. But it would be > >>nice to know if there IS a difference. > >> > >>The flow difference between 50/50 and 60/40 is very obvious, and I'm sure > >>between leadless and 60/40 there are major differences too. > >> > >>Any comments are more than welcome! Thanks, > >> > >>Marci > >>Martin Designs > >> > >> > >> > >>---- > >>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > >>To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > >>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > >> > > > > -- > ********************************************************************* > * Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood and/or Ralph Bernard Wood > * Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy) > ********************************************************************* > > > > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Jun 10 21:14:32 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 10 Jun 2002 20:58:21 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: comcast.net!cecnralph From: Cecily & Ralph Wood To: Bungi Glass Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=ISO-8859-1 Subject: Re: Better Solder?? Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 23:54:35 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net> References: <<36.28b0eae4.2a362444@aol.com>> Organization: Grendel Studio Precedence: bulk I notice you've chosen one of the solders that contains actual silver= .=20 From my reading, those are the more interesting, handle better, and = of=20 course cost more. I'd really like to get my hands on all of the lead= =20 free, no-heavy-metals solders and try and compare them. I'd also lik= e=20 to try the cames that are supposed to mimic lead (not brass, or coppe= r,=20 or even zinc, unless they come up with a new zinc alloy). Nobody see= ms=20 much worried that lead will end, but I still think that once the=20 electronics industiy goes leadless, and several BIG firms are going t= o=20 do so by the end of the year, economies of scale - or lack thereof -= =20 will greatly raise the prices, it will become more scarce, and=20 eventually, they will stop mining it. After all, it's not just the e= nd=20 product workers like us, but the miners, transporters, smelters,=20 processors who have health risks - far more than we do. - Cec CUngv@aol.com wrote: >Cec, > >I have been doing a little surfing and researching on the lead free = solder=20 >and flux issue, and came across a solder that I am interested in try= ing. =20 >Here is some information on it. You may wish to check it out as wel= l at=20 >http://www.johnsonmfg.com/: > > #IA-423 is a "ternary eutectic" alloy, i.e., a composition compr= ising its=20 >three component elements (tin, silver and copper) that both melts an= d flows=20 >at a single low temperature, 423=B0F (217=B0C). Practically speaking= , eutectic=20 >alloys are shinier, stronger and have a tighter, more refined grain = structure=20 >than near-eutectic or non-eutectic compositions. As a result, IA-42= 3 and a=20 >family of its close relatives are becoming highly desireable candida= tes for=20 >replacing the lead-containing solders used in electronic assemblies,= printed=20 >circuit boards, copper foil stained glass work, aerospace, audiophil= e,=20 >automotive, electrical, refrigeration and many other high-tech and i= ndustrial=20 >soldering applications.=20 > >The same company also makes a water removeable paste flux that may a= lso be=20 >worth checking out: >Johnson's Water Removable Soldering Paste was originally developed f= or the=20 >Fire Protection Sprinkler Industry under a CDA STM 1.0, which later = became=20 >ASTM B 813-93, the standard for Plumbing Fluxes in California and a = few other=20 >areas. Johnson's Paste is a non-Zinc Chloride Flux that works like a= true=20 >Soldering Paste, not a gel, liquid or wax. Our smooth white paste is= very=20 >easy to apply, enabling fast and total coverage of the parts to be j= oined. It=20 >lubricates sweat joints so that fittings and tubes slip together mor= e easily.=20 >It begins to clean the moment heat is applied. It fluxes quickly to = provide=20 >maximum penetration of lead-free solders into the joint. It resists= =20 >spattering when heated too rapidly and charring during long heating = cycles,=20 >as when soldering four inch copper joints.=20 > > Johnson's Water Removable Soldering Flux is safer to use on br= ass=20 >because it contains no Ammonium Chloride and safer for copper becaus= e it=20 >contains no Zinc Chloride. Its residues flush down the drain quickly= , even=20 >when using cold water. It is safer for the environment because it re= leases no=20 >harmful or toxic chemicals into the sewer, nor toxic fumes into encl= osed=20 >workplaces.=20 > > This Johnson flux is also becoming well-known for use in the S= tained=20 >Glass Industry. It's safer than many other fluxes, both from the sta= ndpoint=20 >of its residues (no zinc chloride) being flushed into the waste stre= am, as=20 >well as not releasing toxic fumes (no ammonium chloride) into your w= orkplace.=20 >It's easy to apply a small amount of paste flux on one, or a group o= f joints=20 >to be soldered; it stays in place without running off or staining yo= ur=20 >workpiece. It offers what seems to be just the right amount of aggre= ssivity=20 >for removing surface oxidation from copper, just before your hot iro= n has=20 >melted Johnson's IA-423 leadfree solder. Johnson's Water Removable S= oldering=20 >Paste resists charring and its residues are easy to remove with just= water.=20 >=20 >Happy soldering! >Carolyn > --=20 ********************************************************************* * Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood and/or Ralph Bernard Wood=20 * Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy) ********************************************************************* ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Jun 10 21:45:57 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 10 Jun 2002 21:05:49 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: comcast.net!cecnralph From: Cecily & Ralph Wood To: Bungi Glass Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed Subject: Re: Better Solder?? Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 00:00:53 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net>> Organization: Grendel Studio Precedence: bulk Probably wrecks havoc with your won't power. After a session of soldering you'll develop a Mac Attack, or a craving for broiled steak. :-) Cec Marci wrote: >Hmmm - Tallow - sounds like a healthier idea - - would the fumes from that >wreak havoc on my colestrerol levels!??? ;-) > >Marci > > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Cecily & Ralph Wood" >To: "Bungi Glass" >Sent: Sunday, June 09, 2002 10:07 PM >Subject: Re: Better Solder?? > > >>If I've understood things correctly, the 60/40 sets up sooner than the >>50/50 or the 40/60 (which I never even see around here), so the longer >>the set may reflect a sort of "wave" action to give the alligator >>appearence. I've also seen solder referred to as "virgin" solder >>meaning there were no impurities in it (meant for decorative purposes) >>rather than similar solders used in plumbing, etc. where looks don't >>matter. And some impurities come from using too much flux. >> >>And the lead-free solders apparently always give a bright silvery look, >>so you don't get that pewter look that looks best with lead came. But I >>think you are supposed to be able to patina it, like normal. >> >>One mention we haven't hit on is the flux, when dealing with the >>leadfree issue. I think some fluxes have lead or other heavy metals. >>And some are downright nasty chemicals - very caustic or burning, and >>the fumes are not for breathing, either. But for those of us in the US, >>you may not know that one favored flux in the UK is tallow - plain old >>beef fat. Actually any meat fat (oliec acid)(sp?) will do, as long as >>impurities are removed. You can actually buy what look to be candles, >>only they have no wick, and rub the "candle" where you want to solder >>and bingo! It will leave wee bit of grease on your project. With came, >>that really doesn't matter since the putty process will remove that. But >>I tried it on a foiled panel and it worked just fine, as long as you can >>wash the piece afterward. I wouldn't try that on multilayered pieces, >>though. If you can't find them here in the US, you can always order >>them from glass suppliers in the UK who are on the web. The only >>expensive thing about them is going to be shipping. And the only >>harmful thing is you get hungry smelling the cooked beef smell (like >>McDonald's Fries?). - Cec >> >>Stephen Richard s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk [bungier/Bungier] >>wrote: >> >>>Marci, >>> It may be that the person meant that 60/40 leaves a better >>>finish on a copper foiled piece. If so, I agree. The 40/60 and often >>>the 50/50 leaves an alligator type of pattern on its surface. >>> I'm not sure how the refining process would affect the finished >>>solder. Impurities would tend to float to the surface, leaving some >>>residue or pitting perhaps. >>> In the UK we use blowpipe solder that comes in sticks, not >>>rolls. >>> >>>Steve >>> >>> >>>In message <1970Jan1.000.0@doorpi.net>, Marci writes >>> >>>>Hi Gang >>>> >>>>Hope ya'll are enjoying your weekend. >>>> >>>>I usually buy my solder on-line thru SGW - pretty cheap if buying 6 or >>>> >more > >>>>rolls. Unfortunately I ran out soldering my latest project and didn't >>>> >feel > >>>>like waiting a week for mail order - My local shop charges $7.95 and >>>> >$5.95 > >>>>for solder - I asked, "What's the difference??" The owner stated >>>> >that > >>>>the more expensive stuff leaves a better finish. Isn't 60/40 solder, >>>> >60/40 > >>>>solder?? How do they make it better? filter the lead before they make it >>>>into solder? I've never had a problem with flow, clean up or shine >>>> >using > >>>>my $4.00 rolls. I'm sure the store owner didn't mean to insinuate that >>>> >my > >>>>project would be substandard by using the cheaper rolls. But it would be >>>>nice to know if there IS a difference. >>>> >>>>The flow difference between 50/50 and 60/40 is very obvious, and I'm >>>> >sure > >>>>between leadless and 60/40 there are major differences too. >>>> >>>>Any comments are more than welcome! Thanks, >>>> >>>>Marci >>>>Martin Designs >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>>---- >>>>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com >>>>To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com >>>>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass >>>> >>-- >>********************************************************************* >>* Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood and/or Ralph Bernard Wood >>* Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy) >>********************************************************************* >> >> >> >>---- >>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com >>To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com >>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass >> > > > -- ********************************************************************* * Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood and/or Ralph Bernard Wood * Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy) ********************************************************************* ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Jun 13 11:45:33 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 13 Jun 2002 11:05:50 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: yahoo.com!amarachuksng From: amara chuks To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: I NEED A PARTNER TO ASSIST ME Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 11:04:38 -0700 (PDT) Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com> Precedence: bulk FROM:PRINCE AMARA CHUKWU OBI EZE CHUKWU OBI ROYAL PALACE- ELEME- RIVER STATE -NIGERIA. E-MAIL ADDRESS:amarachuksng@yahoo.com ATTN.bungi. DEAR SIR, My name is PRINCE AMARA CHUKWU OBI , a Civil servant.l know this proposal will come to you as a surprise becausewe have not met before either physically or through correspondence.I however contacted you after athorough search for any foreigner who will help me.Ihave no doubt in your ability to handle this proposalinvolving huge sum of money.My father HRH,EZE CHUKWU OBI, (Now Late),was the Royal Head of my community, ELEME (an oil rich town) in Nigeria. My community produces 5.8%of the total crude oil production in Nigeria, and 0.5%of the Dollar value of each barrel is paid to my father asroyalty by the Federal Government. My father was alsothe Chairman of ELEME Special Oil Trust Fund.In hisposition as the Royal head and Chairman of the OilTrust Fund, he made some money which he left for me asthe only heir to inherit. The money is Ten Million Five Hundred Thousand US Dollars($20.5m). This Money originated from the accumulated royalties between 1976-1998. Due to poor banking system in Nigeria andpolitical instability as a result of past Militaryrules (1985-1999), he deposited this Money with asecurity compay here in Nigeria pending when he would finish arrangement to transfer it abroad as a CONTRACT PAYMENT FUND.He was planning this when he died late lastyear of Heart Attack. THE PROPOSAL: Just before my father died he called my attention to the money and advised me that it would bebetter to look for a foreigner who would assist me inthe transfer/investment of the funds abroad. So lwould be very grateful if you could accept to help meachieve this objective. I promise to give you 20% ofthe total funds transferred to your bank account orclaiming it in cash, as benefit for yourassistance. Five percent (5%)would be set aside totakecare of all expenses we may incure during thetransaction. To indicate your interest, contact me urgently andconfidentially for more information and the roles youwill play in this business deal. All the documentsconcerning this Money will be sent to you as soon aswe agree together. And note that this fund wasdeposited as preciousmetals/jewellries belonging to aforeigner, since my father has an intention of how totransfer it abroad.Please Send your reply through this mail box. Then Iwill tell you the name of the security company wherethe fund was deposited and be rest assued that youwill be contacted as soon as you furnish me with yourname, telephone and fax numbers for easy contacts forconfirmaiton. The security company is onlywaiting for whoever that will provide and prove to them that he is the owner of the entire fund. May the almighty God bless you. Yours faithfully, PRINCE AMARA CHUKWU OBI __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Jun 13 15:26:14 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 13 Jun 2002 14:57:30 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: lebanon-ad.com!lebad From: "FFA" To: "glass@bungi.com" Content-Type: multipart/alternative; Subject: Your tool to success !!!!!! 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=20 ------=_NextPart_84815C5ABAF209EF376268C8-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Jun 14 07:45:40 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 14 Jun 2002 07:40:50 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: svensson.com!ulf From: "ulf@wireworld.com" To: Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Do you make or distribute wire hangers Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 10:07:38 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@svensson.com> Precedence: bulk Dear Sir/Madame We are Unicode Inc. see http://www.svensson.com/unicode/ Your e-mail address appears on a Unicode Inc procurement list as a source of supply for wire hangers. If this information is incorrect or if you have a new address please let us know as we are in the process of up dating our database of vendors. Thanks for your cooperation Best regards Unicode Inc Ulf Svensson ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Jun 14 15:29:02 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 14 Jun 2002 15:18:13 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: doorpi.net!mmam5 From: "Marci" To: Content-Type: multipart/alternative; Subject: Glass Peacock Pattern Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 15:53:40 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@doorpi.net> Precedence: bulk This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C213BB.A6FB62E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I'm usually pretty good at keeping most of my messages for future = reference, etc. . . but is the person who was looking for a Peacock = Pattern, Still looking for a peacock pattern?? My wonderful neighbor just gave me 40 stained glass pattern books, dated = from the 70's, 80's and 90's, some of the patterns I've seen "made" on = the Glass Eye 2000 program!! :) Thank goodness for people cleaning = out their garages!! (she got them from another friend!) In amongst these books I've found 1 great pattern for a peacock = (Delightful Designs, by Randy Demello, c 1983), and another book has a = photo of a finished peacock window (Stained Glass Images, III, by Judy = Miller, c 1981) - but I couldn't find the pattern in the book. But I = have a scanner and if anyone would like to have a copy, please let me = know! Thanks!! I have to go peruse for ideas - - - now - what to make = next!!!! =20 Marci ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C213BB.A6FB62E0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I'm usually pretty good at keeping most = of my=20 messages for future reference, etc. . . but is the person who was = looking for a=20 Peacock Pattern, Still looking for a peacock pattern??
 
My wonderful neighbor just gave me 40 = stained glass=20 pattern books, dated from the 70's, 80's and 90's, some of the patterns = I've=20 seen "made" on the Glass Eye 2000 program!!  :)   Thank = goodness=20 for people cleaning out their garages!! (she got them from another=20 friend!)
 
In amongst these books I've found 1 = great pattern=20 for a peacock (Delightful Designs, by Randy Demello, c 1983), and = another book=20 has a photo of a finished peacock window  (Stained Glass Images, = III, by=20 Judy Miller, c 1981) - but I couldn't find the pattern in the = book.  But I=20 have a scanner and if anyone would like to have a copy, please let me=20 know!
 
Thanks!!  I have to go peruse for = ideas - - -=20 now - what to make next!!!! 
 
Marci
------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C213BB.A6FB62E0-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Jun 14 18:03:10 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 14 Jun 2002 17:45:48 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: aol.com!FuchsiaFan From: FuchsiaFan@aol.com To: Glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Subject: Kokopelli Pattern Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 19:50:34 EDT Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com> Precedence: bulk Hello Bungians, Does anyone have a pattern for the Kokopelli? For those of you that are unfamiliar with the name...the Kokopelli in Southwest Indian mythology was somewhat like a visiting sex symbol. As legend has it when he visited villiages, the women would want to be impregnated by him. Thanks, Mike inSpokane ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Jun 14 22:12:47 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 14 Jun 2002 21:43:27 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles From: "Christie A. Wood" To: Bungi Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: bungi:Kokopelli Pattern Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2002 00:38:26 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com> Precedence: bulk Message text written by INTERNET:FuchsiaFan@aol.com >Does anyone have a pattern for the Kokopelli? For those of you that are= = unfamiliar with the name...the Kokopelli in Southwest Indian mythology wa= s = somewhat like a visiting sex symbol. As legend has it when he visited = villiages, the women would want to be impregnated by him.< I'm sorry....I just can't resist.... Kokopelli's "flute" is always depicted pointing down.....not a very good track record if you ask me. Christie A. Wood Art Glass Ensembles/ArtWorks Denton, TX ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Jun 15 08:25:48 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sat, 15 Jun 2002 08:15:47 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: yahoo.com!texpenguin From: Sherry Greer To: GlassList Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: Bungi:Kokapelli's flute Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2002 08:13:33 -0700 (PDT) Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com> Precedence: bulk I took an art history class in college, and apparently Kokapelli was originally depicted with his flute pointed down, but 'something else' pointed up--way up! In many original petroglyphs, it's amazing the guy could stand up at all! He's been PG-afied for the Southwest tourist trade. I think it's funny when I see young flute playing girls in band proudly wearing their Kokapelli charms. If only their parents knew! Of course, I was one of those girls in high school myself... Sherry ===== Sherry Greer texpenguin@yahoo.com __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Jun 15 09:26:39 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sat, 15 Jun 2002 09:21:55 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: comcast.net!cecnralph From: Cecily & Ralph Wood To: Bungi Glass Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed Subject: Re: Kokopelli Pattern Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2002 11:40:21 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net> References: <<2137162131.1024108771922.JavaMail.root@monkey>> Organization: Grendel Studio Precedence: bulk Make your own. For examples, check Kokopelli under images in both Google and AltaVista. Use what you find as samples for drawing your own. Don't copy cause most of the stuff will be copyrighted. Cec Bob Harper harperr@erols.com [bungier/Bungier] wrote: >fyi; Petroglyphs left on canyons and cave walls throughout the Southwest by >the ancient >Anasazi Indians celebrate the legend of Kokopelli, the wandering hunchbacked > flute-player, magician, and Kachina Spirit. The Anasazi looked to Kokopelli >to bring rain > and fertility. > >FuchsiaFan@aol.com wrote: > >>Hello Bungians, >> >>Does anyone have a pattern for the Kokopelli? For those of you that are >>unfamiliar with the name...the Kokopelli in Southwest Indian mythology was >>somewhat like a visiting sex symbol. As legend has it when he visited >>villiages, the women would want to be impregnated by him. >> >>Thanks, >> >>Mike inSpokane >>---- >>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com >>To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com >>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass >> > >---- >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com >To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > > -- ********************************************************************* * Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood and/or Ralph Bernard Wood * Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy) ********************************************************************* ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Jun 17 18:32:54 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 17 Jun 2002 17:58:42 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: msn.com!seasandtreesart From: "Carol McEvoy" To: , Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_001_0000_01C2163A.939AB8A0" Subject: Re: Favorite Part of Stained Glass Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 20:07:15 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@msn.com> Precedence: bulk ------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C2163A.939AB8A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I agree! ----- Original Message ----- From: Bergju@aol.com Sent: Monday, June 03, 2002 4:58 PM To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Favorite Part of Stained Glass ah two things. the part where you have come up with a design, then actua= lly pick out the glass to fit your imagined finished work. not to say mi= ne actually turns out the way i imagined but i'm always pleasantly surpri= sed. but it just feels good to have the glass in hand that will soon be = in a project...and cutting. there is something almost spiritual about cu= tting a particular curve or shape and feeling the power of accomplishment= when it breaks right on the line. ooooh! ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glassGet more from the Web. F= REE MSN Explorer download : http://explorer.msn.com ------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C2163A.939AB8A0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I agree!
=
 
----- Original Message -----
From:<= /B> Bergju@aol.com
Sent: Mon= day, June 03, 2002 4:58 PM
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: = Re: Favorite Part of Stained Glass
 
ah two things.&= nbsp; the part where you have come up with a design, then actually pick o= ut the glass to fit your imagined finished work.  not to say mine ac= tually turns out the way i imagined but i'm always pleasantly surprised.&= nbsp; but it just feels good to have the glass in hand that will soon be = in a project...and cutting.  there is something almost spiritual abo= ut cutting a particular curve or shape and feeling the power of accomplis= hment when it breaks right on the line.  ooooh!
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------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C2163A.939AB8A0-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Jun 19 00:42:28 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 19 Jun 2002 00:37:16 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: aol.com!Wbfeat From: Wbfeat@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_87.1d1363dd.2a41794f_boundary" Subject: Re: Better Solder?? Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 02:06:07 EDT Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com> Precedence: bulk --part1_87.1d1363dd.2a41794f_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Solder???? Bottom line as I see it. I've worked with a lot of solders but nothing compares to Canfield 50/50 solder. I've tried a lot of well respected solders including Fry, USA and a ton of others and have found that nothing just comes up with the same shine and smooth line as the Canfield 50/50. I've read a lot of books that recommend 60/40, but I have come to believe that they are recommending the 60/40 because they have been working with the wrong brand of solder. Most brands of solder the 50/50 is simply unusable and the 60/40 is just barely tolerable except that is comes up with dull patches. With Canfield, either one comes up nice and shiny, but I find that the 50/50 is easier to patch errors in and a bit easier to get a smooth line in as well. I asked the folks at Canfield about this and they told me that it is because Canfield uses all virgin metals in their solder, Seems that gov't regulations state that recycled metals can have a certain amount of impurities and still be called lead or tin or whatever, but virgin metals must be purer to qualify. Anyhow, other brands of solder leave all kinds of junk all over my iron tip and Canfield does not. Gary Dodge www.dodgestudio.com Dodge Studio Designs --part1_87.1d1363dd.2a41794f_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Solder????

Bottom line as I see it.

I've worked with a lot of solders but nothing compares to Canfield 50/50 solder.

I've tried a lot of well respected solders including Fry, USA and a ton of others and have found that nothing just comes  up with the same shine and smooth line as the Canfield 50/50.  I've read a lot of books that recommend 60/40, but I have come to believe that they are recommending the 60/40 because they have been working with the wrong brand of solder.  Most brands of solder the 50/50 is simply unusable and the 60/40 is just barely tolerable except that is comes up with dull patches.   With Canfield, either one comes up nice and shiny, but I find that the 50/50 is easier to patch errors in and a bit easier to get a smooth line in as well.

I asked the folks at Canfield about this and they told me that it is because Canfield uses all virgin metals in their solder,   Seems that gov't regulations state that recycled metals can have a certain amount of impurities and still be called lead or tin or whatever, but virgin metals must be purer to qualify.  Anyhow, other brands of solder leave all kinds of junk all over my iron tip and Canfield does not.

Gary Dodge
www.dodgestudio.com
Dodge Studio Designs
 --part1_87.1d1363dd.2a41794f_boundary-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Jun 19 06:08:47 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 19 Jun 2002 05:29:04 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: Corpit.com!dterrill From: Dan Terrill To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: multipart/alternative; Subject: stepping stone concrete Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 08:19:27 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@Corpit.com> Precedence: bulk This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. ------_=_NextPart_001_01C2178B.8E59AD90 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Hey, folks, just got started with stepping stones, and have a question on concrete. Is there really a benefit to using the 'crete marketed for use with glass? Or is it just a gimmic? Has anyone made stones with regular concrete? If so, which type works best? Thanks is advance. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Cum catapultae proscriptae erunt tum soli proscripti catapultas habebunt ------_=_NextPart_001_01C2178B.8E59AD90 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1"
Hey, folks, just got started with stepping stones, and have a question on concrete. Is there really a benefit to using the 'crete marketed for use with glass? Or is it just a gimmic? Has anyone made stones with regular concrete? If so, which type works best?
 
Thanks is advance.
 
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Cum catapultae proscriptae erunt tum soli proscripti catapultas habebunt
 
------_=_NextPart_001_01C2178B.8E59AD90-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Jun 19 06:52:03 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 19 Jun 2002 06:19:34 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: doorpi.net!mmam5 From: mmam5@doorpi.net To: Wbfeat@aol.com Content-Type: text/plain Subject: Re: Better Solder?? Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 8:15:16 EST Message-ID: <200206191315.g5JDFLB78125@mail1.netacc.net> Precedence: bulk Thanks for your input. I did notice a difference using the cheaper one compared to the Fry this past week . . . the virgin metals makes sense. Now just have to invest in a more powerful soldering iron! Marci Martin Designs On Wed, 19 Jun 2002 02:06:07 EDT Wbfeat@aol.com wrote: > Solder???? > > Bottom line as I see it. > > I've worked with a lot of solders but nothing compares to Canfield > 50/50 > solder. > > I've tried a lot of well respected solders including Fry, USA and > a ton of > others and have found that nothing just comes up with the same > shine and > smooth line as the Canfield 50/50. I've read a lot of books that > recommend > 60/40, but I have come to believe that they are recommending the > 60/40 > because they have been working with the wrong brand of solder. > Most brands > of solder the 50/50 is simply unusable and the 60/40 is just > barely tolerable > except that is comes up with dull patches. With Canfield, either > one comes > up nice and shiny, but I find that the 50/50 is easier to patch > errors in and > a bit easier to get a smooth line in as well. > > I asked the folks at Canfield about this and they told me that it > is because > Canfield uses all virgin metals in their solder, Seems that > gov't > regulations state that recycled metals can have a certain amount > of > impurities and still be called lead or tin or whatever, but virgin > metals > must be purer to qualify. Anyhow, other brands of solder leave > all kinds of > junk all over my iron tip and Canfield does not. > > Gary Dodge > www.dodgestudio.com > Dodge Studio Designs ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Jun 19 17:24:43 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 19 Jun 2002 16:53:26 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: doorpi.net!mmam5 From: "Marci" To: "Dan Terrill" , Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Re: stepping stone concrete Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 18:46:31 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@doorpi.net> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@Corpit.com>> Precedence: bulk Hi Dan - - I was told that the diamond crete dries/hardens in an hour - so it's very convenient . . .Plus the variety of colors, etc. would some of the main benefits of using it. Marci ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dan Terrill" To: Sent: Wednesday, June 19, 2002 7:19 AM Subject: stepping stone concrete > Hey, folks, just got started with stepping stones, and have a question on > concrete. Is there really a benefit to using the 'crete marketed for use > with glass? Or is it just a gimmic? Has anyone made stones with regular > concrete? If so, which type works best? > > Thanks is advance. > > +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ > Cum catapultae proscriptae erunt tum soli proscripti catapultas habebunt > > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Jun 20 04:01:54 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 20 Jun 2002 03:37:44 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: aol.com!CncptThnkr From: CncptThnkr@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Subject: Re: stepping stone concrete Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2002 06:34:03 EDT Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com> Precedence: bulk In the "olden days" before Dimoncrete existed we used cement for stepping stones, but it wasn't as easy as Dimoncrete. Cement is too coarse, so a layer of topping mix needed to be poured into your mold, then a layer of cement, a piece of chicken wire for strength and another layer of cement. We made our own topping mix by using a piece of window screen to sift the large particles from the cement, however it's not a healthy or fun process and you need safety glasses, a dust mask and rubber gloves. Colorants can be added to the cement but they aren't available in a wide range of colors. Rumor has it that you can use Rit fabric dye to color the concrete but I have never seen it done. Good Luck, Pat ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Jun 20 14:11:38 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 20 Jun 2002 13:38:57 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: bassberry.com!SBible From: "Bible, Sue" To: "'glass@bungi.com'" Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: How to Color Your Grout Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2002 15:28:30 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@bassberry.com> Precedence: bulk I found your information about making stained glass items really interesting. I'm trying out mosaics. Are stained glass items generally about the same as mosaics? I'm wondering if I can generalize some of your techniques into what I'm attempting. Also, do you really use Latex Paints to color your grout? Wow. That's a great idea. I'm working on a simple little stepping stone and want some black grout as a background. (Am I asking totally the wrong person?) Thanks for your consideration. ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Jun 20 16:53:13 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 20 Jun 2002 16:32:30 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: slonet.org!edupjohn From: "Peggy W. Johnsen" To: Dan Terrill Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Subject: Re: stepping stone concrete Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2002 16:12:20 -0700 (PDT) Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@slonet.org> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@Corpit.com>> Precedence: bulk Yes Dan, I have used quickcrete and find that it works very well. Just don't forget to include a piece of hardware wire in the middle to keep it from spliting apart when it dries and comes out of the form. PJ ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Jun 21 08:30:59 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 21 Jun 2002 08:04:04 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: svensson.com!ulf From: "ulf@wireworld.com" To: Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Do you make or distribute florist wire Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2002 10:56:07 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@svensson.com> Precedence: bulk Dear Sir/Madame We are Unicode Inc. see http://www.svensson.com/unicode/ Your e-mail address appears on a Unicode Inc procurement list as a source of supply for florist wire. If this information is incorrect or if you have a new address please let us know as we are in the process of up dating our database of vendors. Thanks for your cooperation Best regards Unicode Inc Ulf Svensson ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Jun 21 15:18:11 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 21 Jun 2002 15:05:00 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: notification.messagelabs.com!alert From: alert@notification.messagelabs.com To: glass@bungi.com Subject: WARNING. You tried to send a potential virus or unauthorised code Date: 21 Jun 2002 22:03:48 -0000 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@notification.messagelabs.com> Precedence: bulk The MessageLabs SkyScan Anti-Virus service discovered a possible virus or unauthorised code (such as a joke program or trojan) in an email sent by you. The email has now been quarantined and was not delivered. Please read the whole of this email carefully. It explains what has happened to your email, which suspected virus has been caught and what to do if you need help addressing the problem. To help identify the quarantined email: The message sender was ashkyn@alltel.net glass@bungi.com The message recipients were vibe@vibe.com The message title was Fw:sos! The message date was Fri, 21 Jun 2002 17:02:03 -0500 The virus or unauthorised code identified in the email is F-Secure Anti-Virus for i386-linux Release 4.13 build 3360 Frisk Software International F-PROT engine version 3.10 build 701 620206_2MAUDIO-X-WAV_CTdo_if.pif infection: W95/Klez.H@mm 3 files scanned 1 infections found Some viruses forge the sender address. For more information please visit the link to the virus FAQ's at the bottom of this page. The message was diverted into the virus holding pen on mail server server-10.tower-15.messagelabs.com (pen id 620206_1024697028) and will be held for 30 days before being destroyed Corporate Users: If you sent the email from a corporate network, you should first contact your local IT Helpdesk or System Administrator for advice. They will be able to help you disinfect your workstation. 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For more information on a proactive anti-virus service working around the clock, around the globe, visit http://www.messagelabs.com ________________________________________________________________________ ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Jun 21 17:24:57 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 21 Jun 2002 16:54:08 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: aol.com!UserDusty From: UserDusty@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Subject: Re: Concrete Stepping Stones Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2002 19:12:46 EDT Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com> Precedence: bulk Hi All, I haven't had much input lately, but have been learning a lot. Sure glad I found this site. When I first took a mosaic stone class we used concrete and play sand. I didn't like the texture and to many pin holes. So I did a little experimentation and started using fine grit sand blasting sand. The mixture I use is half and half, concrete to sand. As far as the topping mix goes I have never seen a stone done in this manner where the topping mix doesn't chip away. Besides I don't think the two materials work together. I did an angel stone one time and wanted a jet black background. I couldn't get the colorant to work out right. I finally went to Ace hardware and got a good black exterior latex primer. Painted the whole stone glass and all. I know the guy's nuts, but here's the kicker. Latex paint doesn't stick to glass very good. After the paint dried I used a plastic scraper to remove the paint from the glass. The stone came out the way I wanted. If anyone is interested please contact me and I can email them a picture. Moving on to the manufactured cements. Flashcrete from what I understand contains plaster of paris. Not a long lasting material. The colorant has to be added. To much guess work for me and to hard to be consistent. The Diamond Crete is a good product and comes in thirteen different colors. Hardens in about one hour so you can take it out of the mold and do any patch work as far as pin holes. Zee Stone is a superior product and is advertised for exterior use, also the most expensive product. It also hardens in about an hour for any repair work. When I open my store this is one of the products I'm going to offer. I forgot to mention it comes in twenty-six different colors. One point to remember when doing the stones. After the stone is removed from the mold and the repair work done it should set for a week to dry. After that it should set for about a month to completely harden after all it is a cement. Any questions please email me. Sorry I got long winded, Your friend in glass, Ken O Decorative Glass Sorry I got long winded ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Jun 21 19:56:44 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 21 Jun 2002 19:35:13 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: datasync.com!nts From: "Nancy Saucier" To: "Bungi" Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: kokopeli pattern Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2002 21:34:21 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@datasync.com> Precedence: bulk Hi! Someone a few days ago was inquiring about a Kokopeli stained glass pattern. I found one this evening on the Free Stained Glass Patterns site: www.downeaststainedglass.com/freestainedglasspatterns.html Go to the link for Aanraku stained glass: www.bayareastainedglass.com/pattern.htm Hope this one suits you! Nancy Picayune Mississippi ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Jun 22 18:51:46 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sat, 22 Jun 2002 18:38:26 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: webtv.net!captjonmisspat From: captjonmisspat@webtv.net (John Triano) To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Subject: Concrete Colorants Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2002 21:36:28 -0400 (EDT) Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@webtv.net> Precedence: bulk I have been making concrete stained glass stepping stones for about 3 years . I find that if you color the concrete a pastel color it tends to distract from the beauty of the stained glass. Therefore most of my stones I keep natural concrete. However I have made several of a particular stone using the charcoal gray color you can buy at Home Depo in the cement dept. and that one comes out beautiful. It really brings out the color of the irridized stone.I have seen mentioned the use of acrilic paint or Rit dye as a colorant . Would this contaminate the cement and cause it to crack.I'm curious. Would appreciate an answer to this question. Thank you Patti ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Jun 22 20:27:49 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sat, 22 Jun 2002 20:13:14 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: comcast.net!cecnralph From: Cecily & Ralph Wood To: Bungi Glass Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed Subject: Re: Concrete Colorants Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2002 22:12:42 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net> References: <<989776785.1024797515844.JavaMail.root@monkey>> Organization: Grendel Studio Precedence: bulk I tried Rit to get a black color, and the concrete just crumbled. It was special casting concrete by Diamond Tech, and not just plain concrete. It irks me that some colors come nice and dark but there is no black and no navy. Their blue is sooo blah. - Cec captjonmisspat@webtv.net (John Triano) [bungier/Bungier] wrote: >I have been making concrete stained glass stepping stones for about 3 >years . I find that if you color the concrete a pastel color it tends >to distract from the beauty of the stained glass. Therefore most of my >stones I keep natural concrete. However I have made several of a >particular stone using the charcoal gray color you can buy at Home Depo >in the cement dept. and that one comes out beautiful. It really brings >out the color of the irridized stone.I have seen mentioned the use of >acrilic paint or Rit dye as a colorant . Would this contaminate the >cement and cause it to crack.I'm curious. Would appreciate an answer to >this question. Thank you Patti > >---- >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com >To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > > > > -- ********************************************************************* * Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood and/or Ralph Bernard Wood * Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy) ********************************************************************* ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Jun 23 07:17:25 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 23 Jun 2002 07:03:01 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: comcast.net!cecnralph From: Cecily & Ralph Wood To: Bungi Glass Content-Type: multipart/related; boundary="Boundary_(ID_OjgICryK5eeslTY8w5IkgA)" Subject: Re: Concrete Colorants Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2002 09:48:11 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net> References: <<148.1067d6af.2a470a26@aol.com>> Organization: Grendel Studio Precedence: bulk --Boundary_(ID_OjgICryK5eeslTY8w5IkgA) Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT I basically did the same thing. The test mix (with black Ritz powdered dye) just crumbled, so I used the dark grey premix, let it cure a month or so, and then sponged liquid black dye on it, and then used that concrete sealant you can get. I don't have it outside, but keep it on a bookshelf. It is so much more satisfying black. - Cec PS - I have Ken's picture of his angel mosaic, and can also send a picture of my nasturtium mosaic if any one wants it. Will send off list. - C UserDusty@aol.com wrote: >Hi Cec, > >I agree with you on some of the colors. I think the way the premixes are >formulated nothing else can be added. When I did the angel stone I wanted a >jet black. In my experiments the colorants would not come out dark enough. >I talked to a mason and he told me the more colorant you add the weaker the >material becomes. I even tried just painting the colorant on the stone. >Came out jet black, but every time I moved the stone I got black and the >stuff washes off. So I finally just bought a good exterior latex paint and >just painted the whole stone. I used a plastic scraper to remove the paint >from the glass. I was supprised how easy the paint came off the glass. I >used irridized glass on the wings and wanted to bring out all the colors of >the glass. I'm attaching a picture of the angel stone. > >Your friend in glass >Ken O. >Decorative Glass > > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > -- ********************************************************************* * Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood and/or Ralph Bernard Wood * Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy) ********************************************************************* --Boundary_(ID_OjgICryK5eeslTY8w5IkgA)-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Jun 23 09:53:25 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 23 Jun 2002 09:31:36 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: compu-type.net!joanne From: "JoAnne Vogt" To: Content-Type: Multipart/related; Subject: Stepping stones Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2002 09:33:38 -0500 (Central Daylight Time) Message-ID: <3D15DC42.000003.33483@i6b2r9> Precedence: bulk --------------Boundary-00=_2SX5G6G0000000000000 Content-Type: Multipart/Alternative; boundary="------------Boundary-00=_3SX5BHK0000000000000" --------------Boundary-00=_3SX5BHK0000000000000 Content-Type: Text/Plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Is it just me, or does anyone else think DiamondCrete and all of that kin= d of stuff is overly expensive? Especially considering how inexpensive concrete is.=0D =0D What do you suppose is in it? Why hasn't someone figured out how to make our own? We can do everything else...=0D =0D Let's start with:=0D =0D Plaster of Paris=0D Very fine sand=0D =0D =0D Now - what else=0D =0D JoAnne Vogt=0D St.Louis --------------Boundary-00=_3SX5BHK0000000000000 Content-Type: Text/HTML; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable =0D =0A
Is it just me, or does anyone else think DiamondCrete and all = of that=20 kind of stuff is overly expensive?  Especially considering how= =20 inexpensive concrete is.
 
What do you suppose is in it?  Why hasn't someone figured= out=20 how to make our own?  We can do everything else...
 
Let's start with:
 
Plaster of Paris
Very fine sand
 
 
Now - what else
 
JoAnne Vogt
St.Louis
=09 =09 =09 =09 =09 =09 =09
____________________________________________________
  IncrediMail - Email has finally evolved -=20 Click=20 Here --------------Boundary-00=_3SX5BHK0000000000000-- --------------Boundary-00=_2SX5G6G0000000000000 Content-Type: image/gif Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64 Content-ID: <7C07CAB4-861C-11D6-982F-9A1348173352> R0lGODlhFAAPALMIAP9gAM9gAM8vAM9gL/+QL5AvAGAvAP9gL////wAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAACH/C05FVFNDQVBFMi4wAwEAAAAh+QQJFAAIACwAAAAAFAAPAAAEVRDJSaudJuudrxlEKI6B URlCUYyjKpgYAKSgOBSCDEuGDKgrAtC3Q/R+hkPJEDgYCjpKr5A8WK9OaPFZwHoPqm3366VKyeRt E30tVVRscMHDqV/u+AgAIfkEBWQACAAsAAAAABQADwAABBIQyUmrvTjrzbv/YCiOZGmeaAQAIfkE CRQACAAsAgABABAADQAABEoQIUOrpXIOwrsPxiQUheeRAgUA49YNhbCqK1kS9grQhXGAhsDBUJgZ AL2Dcqkk7ogFpvRAokSn0p4PO6UIuUsQggSmFjKXdAgRAQAh+QQFCgAIACwAAAAAFAAPAAAEEhDJ Sau9OOvNu/9gKI5kaZ5oBAAh+QQJFAAIACwCAAEAEAANAAAEShAhQ6ulcg7Cuw/GJBSF55ECBQDj 1g2FsKorWRL2CtCFcYCGwMFQmBkAvYNyqSTuiAWm9ECiRKfSng87pQi5SxCCBKYWMpd0CBEBACH5 BAVkAAgALAAAAAAUAA8AAAQSEMlJq7046827/2AojmRpnmgEADs= --------------Boundary-00=_2SX5G6G0000000000000-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Jun 23 17:54:20 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 23 Jun 2002 17:43:57 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: aol.com!UserDusty From: UserDusty@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Subject: Re: Stepping Stones Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2002 20:30:01 EDT Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com> Precedence: bulk Hi All, There was a website I ran across some time ago. It pertains to making your own cement. The address is www.dmentd.com/folly/index. html go to the manuals button This will give you instructions on making your own cement. Your friend in glass, Ken O. Decorative Glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Jun 24 07:23:40 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 24 Jun 2002 07:17:18 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: wireworld.com!paul From: "Wire World Internet" To: Content-Type: multipart/alternative; Subject: supplier search Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 09:32:19 -0700 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@wireworld.com> Precedence: bulk This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0050_01C21B62.0962A580 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Is it time to find a new supplier? Maybe you can find a better supplier? Searching for suppliers of wire & cable has never been easier. http://www.wirelinks.com has been designed to assist you. We have sorted over 2000 companies by product to help you find a list of companies that supply what you need! Use it today. ------=_NextPart_000_0050_01C21B62.0962A580 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Is it time to = find a new=20 supplier?  Maybe you can find a better = supplier?
Searching for = suppliers of=20 wire & cable has never been easier.
 
http://www.wirelinks.com has been = designed=20 to assist you.
 
We have sorted = over 2000=20 companies by product to help you find a list of = companies
that supply = what you=20 need!
 
Use it=20 today.
------=_NextPart_000_0050_01C21B62.0962A580-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Jun 25 12:42:02 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 25 Jun 2002 12:25:55 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: comcast.net!cecnralph From: Cecily & Ralph Wood To: Bungi Glass Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed Subject: Re: Concrete Colorants Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 09:06:46 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net> References: <<25.298b830f.2a492e13@aol.com>> Organization: Grendel Studio Precedence: bulk Don't forget that I also used a sealant, and I don't keep the mosaic out doors or allow it to be stepped on. The Rit dye got me a lovely black black, but I have no idea how it would stand up to weather and use. Speakin of sealant - how many of you use it? My friend swears it makes the cement less prone to cracking. And somebody suggested using wire internally as a rebar sort of reinforcement. What did you use and how? In my experience, too many of the ones outdoors crack. Some do it if left out all winter, and others just go on and on, summer and winter with no cracks. Has anybody used any of that Moon Dancer stuff? What's it like? - Cec ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Jun 25 18:23:02 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 25 Jun 2002 17:52:30 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: doorpi.net!mmam5 From: "Marci" To: Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Finished Glass Projects Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 19:46:14 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@doorpi.net> Precedence: bulk Ok Gang - I know most of you are pretty darn busy! I finally finished my BIG Hummingbird project and have posted the pictures up on my site for anyone who'd like to see them. Also out there is a simple purple iris (spectrum freebie) and some pretty crosses (my own designs) www.mmartindesigns.com/newstuff.htm It takes a little longer for all the pictures to come up - but worth the wait! Thanks bunches for all your help you've all given me in the past 6 months or more! Even when I was a lurker you all have so much to offer! Marci Martin Designs www.mmartindesigns.com ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Jun 25 18:32:29 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 25 Jun 2002 18:09:53 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: cox.net!gunnx4 From: "Suzanne Gunn" To: "Cecily & Ralph Wood" , Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Re: Concrete Colorants Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 20:09:37 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@cox.net> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net>> Organization: glsasdancer Precedence: bulk I've always mixed my own concrete... 1 part portland white cement to 3 parts *clean* sand. I used fine white sand to mix in my topping mix. (I visited a decorative concrete worker who was happy to share his knowledge) I use a professional mold release called 880 (supplied by the concrete guy). The stones turn out beautiful white, and very smooth. I leave them out side all year, for several years now. No deterioration that I can see, no cracks. Also I have never sealed them with anything. Suzanne ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Jun 26 08:41:52 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 26 Jun 2002 08:28:00 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: exchange.DAYTONOH.NCR.com!DF125031 From: "Becker, Donna" To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain Subject: RE: Concrete Colorants Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2002 11:24:37 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@exchange.DAYTONOH.NCR.com> Precedence: bulk I'm looking forward to trying Suzanne's recipes, but I am going to make mosaic "wall hangings". Do you think I could use the same recipe - They are about 1 ft. by 2 ft. Will that be too heavy? Is there some substance that is lighter? They are for inside. Donna Becker Senior Consultant II donna.becker@chicagoil.ncr.com -----Original Message----- From: Suzanne Gunn [mailto:gunnx4@cox.net] Sent: Tuesday, June 25, 2002 8:10 PM To: Cecily & Ralph Wood Subject: Re: Concrete Colorants I've always mixed my own concrete... 1 part portland white cement to 3 parts *clean* sand. I used fine white sand to mix in my topping mix. (I visited a decorative concrete worker who was happy to share his knowledge) I use a professional mold release called 880 (supplied by the concrete guy). The stones turn out beautiful white, and very smooth. I leave them out side all year, for several years now. No deterioration that I can see, no cracks. Also I have never sealed them with anything. Suzanne ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Jun 26 08:59:38 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 26 Jun 2002 08:06:17 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: doorpi.net!mmam5 From: mmam5@doorpi.net To: seaspray@island.net Content-Type: text/plain Subject: Re: Finished Glass Projects Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2002 10:03:23 EST Message-ID: <200206261503.g5QF3SR46735@mail1.netacc.net> Precedence: bulk Thanks Carol! It was a lot of fun. I believe the red is Spectrum - red/white whispy and the green in the birds is the matching green/white whispy. The background glass is Kokomo 4SPL - royal blue/clear/opal. Marci On Wed, 26 Jun 2002 07:09:16 -0700 "synergy glass" wrote: > Nice panel Marci...lots of detail work in it. I love the glass > you've used for the fuschias...what is it? > > Carol > > Carol Swann > Synergy Glass & Creative > www.igga.org/synergy > seaspray@island.net > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Marci" > To: > Sent: Tuesday, June 25, 2002 5:46 PM > Subject: Finished Glass Projects > > > > Ok Gang - I know most of you are pretty darn busy! > > > > I finally finished my BIG Hummingbird project and have posted > the pictures > > up on my site for anyone who'd like to see them. Also out there > is a > simple > > purple iris (spectrum freebie) and some pretty crosses (my own > designs) > > > > www.mmartindesigns.com/newstuff.htm > > It takes a little longer for all the pictures to come up - but > worth the > > wait! > > > > Thanks bunches for all your help you've all given me in the past > 6 months > or > > more! Even when I was a lurker you all have so much to offer! > > > > Marci > > Martin Designs > > www.mmartindesigns.com > > > > > > > > ---- > > For subscription changes, please mail to: > glass-request@bungi.com > > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > > > > > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Jun 26 09:45:41 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 26 Jun 2002 09:09:19 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: stratus.com!Charlie.Spitzer From: "Spitzer, Charlie" To: "'Becker, Donna'" , Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: RE: Concrete Colorants Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2002 09:00:22 -0700 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@stratus.com> Precedence: bulk a 60 lb bag of concrete is about 1/3 of a cubic foot i think. a 1'x2'x2" piece of concrete is 1/3 cubic foot, or 1 bag of cement, or 60 lbs. why not make your mosaic on a piece of plywood and grout it with standard tile grouts? regards, charlie cave creek, az > -----Original Message----- > From: Becker, Donna [mailto:DF125031@exchange.DAYTONOH.NCR.com] > Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2002 8:25 AM > To: glass@bungi.com > Subject: RE: Concrete Colorants > > > I'm looking forward to trying Suzanne's recipes, but I am > going to make > mosaic "wall hangings". Do you think I could use the same > recipe - They are > about 1 ft. by 2 ft. Will that be too heavy? Is there some > substance that > is lighter? They are for inside. > > Donna Becker > Senior Consultant II > donna.becker@chicagoil.ncr.com ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Jun 26 10:07:00 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 26 Jun 2002 09:21:39 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: exchange.DAYTONOH.NCR.com!DF125031 From: "Becker, Donna" To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: RE: Concrete Colorants Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2002 12:18:17 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@exchange.DAYTONOH.NCR.com> Precedence: bulk I mispoke, it's not as much a mosaic as a very large thin stepping stone. I'd like the "picture" to be glass and the background to be "cement". Is there a way to "grout" that large an area?, because I agree, I don't think it's practical to hang something that heavy. Donna Becker Senior Consultant II donna.becker@chicagoil.ncr.com -----Original Message----- From: Spitzer, Charlie [mailto:Charlie.Spitzer@stratus.com] Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2002 11:00 AM To: Becker, Donna; 'glass@bungi.com' Subject: RE: Concrete Colorants a 60 lb bag of concrete is about 1/3 of a cubic foot i think. a 1'x2'x2" piece of concrete is 1/3 cubic foot, or 1 bag of cement, or 60 lbs. why not make your mosaic on a piece of plywood and grout it with standard tile grouts? regards, charlie cave creek, az > -----Original Message----- > From: Becker, Donna [mailto:DF125031@exchange.DAYTONOH.NCR.com] > Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2002 8:25 AM > To: glass@bungi.com > Subject: RE: Concrete Colorants > > > I'm looking forward to trying Suzanne's recipes, but I am > going to make > mosaic "wall hangings". Do you think I could use the same > recipe - They are > about 1 ft. by 2 ft. Will that be too heavy? Is there some > substance that > is lighter? They are for inside. > > Donna Becker > Senior Consultant II > donna.becker@chicagoil.ncr.com ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Jun 26 11:20:05 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 26 Jun 2002 10:50:12 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: stratus.com!Charlie.Spitzer From: "Spitzer, Charlie" To: "'glass@bungi.com'" Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: RE: Concrete Colorants Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2002 10:32:14 -0700 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@stratus.com> Precedence: bulk you can grout a floor, so that's not very large. you can even do a mosaic on a piece of plate glass. in any case, just the glass itself is going to be heavy. i wouldn't hang such a large piece of concrete on my wall. i'd use a piece of 1/2 or 3/4" plywood. use mastic to apply the glass. grout like you normally would do so for tile. use unsanded grout if lines are less than 1/8". regards, charlie cave creek, az > -----Original Message----- > From: Becker, Donna [mailto:DF125031@exchange.DAYTONOH.NCR.com] > Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2002 9:18 AM > To: glass@bungi.com > Subject: RE: Concrete Colorants > > > I mispoke, it's not as much a mosaic as a very large thin > stepping stone. > I'd like the "picture" to be glass and the background to be > "cement". Is > there a way to "grout" that large an area?, because I agree, > I don't think > it's practical to hang something that heavy. > > Donna Becker > Senior Consultant II > donna.becker@chicagoil.ncr.com ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Jun 26 15:26:04 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 26 Jun 2002 14:57:40 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: aol.com!PWISERV From: PWISERV@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_18.213fb566.2a4b8c59_boundary" Subject: stain glass list Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2002 17:30:01 EDT Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com> Precedence: bulk --part1_18.213fb566.2a4b8c59_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit please put me on your e-mail list @ www.pwiserv@aol.com thanks --part1_18.213fb566.2a4b8c59_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit please put me on your e-mail list @ www.pwiserv@aol.com
thanks --part1_18.213fb566.2a4b8c59_boundary-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Jun 26 22:13:59 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 26 Jun 2002 21:36:50 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: slonet.org!edupjohn From: "Peggy W. Johnsen" To: "Becker, Donna" Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Subject: RE: Concrete Colorants Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2002 21:34:36 -0700 (PDT) Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@slonet.org> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@exchange.DAYTONOH.NCR.com>> Precedence: bulk Hi Donna: When you pour your wall hanging using concrete or other stone mixture, you can include a wire hanger and enbed (?) it in the wall hanging while it is still wet. Only fill your mold about 1/3 or less to eliminate the weight of the stone. Actually instead of a stone you will be making a large tile type hanging. Good luck. PJ ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Jun 27 05:45:17 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 27 Jun 2002 05:09:00 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: mindspring.com!redswanne From: "redswanne@mindspring.com" To: "glass@bungi.com" Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Drilling question Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 07:58:44 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@mindspring.com> Precedence: bulk Can anyone suggest the best way they have found to drill holes directly into small pieces of glass. I am looking to make some windchimes, as well as run ribbon through some for other purposes, but have yet to find a bit t= hat can wistand the abuse..... Been wet drilling, using my dremel, and the bit doesn't seem to last more than a couple p= ieces.....Not a happy prospect since I am looking at drilling about 100. Thank you Jean Wagner Raleigh, NC -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web - Check your email from the web at http://mail2web.com/ . ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Jun 27 06:50:28 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 27 Jun 2002 06:27:56 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: comcast.net!TheGlassGarden From: The Glass Garden To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: multipart/alternative; Subject: polish edges Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 09:20:21 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net> Precedence: bulk This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --Boundary_(ID_pXICUs59kKd5VKCN6aTNFw) Content-type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT Hi All! I have a question for you....when you cut and grind glass that is not going to be foiled...how do you polish the edge? Any chemicals? Wendy --Boundary_(ID_pXICUs59kKd5VKCN6aTNFw) Content-type: text/html; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT
Hi All!
I have a question for you....when you cut and grind glass that is not going to be foiled...how do you polish the edge?  Any chemicals?
Wendy
--Boundary_(ID_pXICUs59kKd5VKCN6aTNFw)-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Jun 27 09:19:38 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 27 Jun 2002 08:46:32 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: stratus.com!Charlie.Spitzer From: "Spitzer, Charlie" To: "'glass@bungi.com'" Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: RE: Drilling question Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 07:30:09 -0700 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@stratus.com> Precedence: bulk diamond drill bit under water. you can get them at riogrande, or other jewelry tool places. regards, charlie cave creek, az > -----Original Message----- > From: redswanne@mindspring.com [mailto:redswanne@mindspring.com] > Sent: Thursday, June 27, 2002 4:59 AM > To: glass@bungi.com > Subject: Drilling question > > > Can anyone suggest the best way they have found to drill > holes directly into small pieces of glass. > > I am looking to make some windchimes, as well as run ribbon > through some for other purposes, but have yet to find a bit t= > hat can wistand the abuse..... Been wet drilling, using my > dremel, and the bit doesn't seem to last more than a couple p= > ieces.....Not a happy prospect since I am looking at drilling > about 100. > > Thank you > > Jean Wagner > Raleigh, NC ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Jun 27 09:53:49 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 27 Jun 2002 09:22:37 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: comcast.net!esavad From: Mike Savad To: redswanne@mindspring.com, glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Subject: RE: Drilling question Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 10:09:51 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net> Precedence: bulk the best thing is a diamond dental drill bit. but i'm certain dremel has it's own line of diamond tipped tools. just be sure to use water, goggles, and even a breathing mask when you do it. ---Mike Savad --- Mike's Canon Powershot Pro90 IS - Photo Page 2 - http://www.pbase.com/savad - NEW --- Mike's Photosig Page - http://www.photosig.com/userphotos.php?id=9050 --- Mike's Canon Powershot Pro90 IS - Photo Page - http://www.savad.0catch.com/ --- Mike's Stained Glass - http: Contains a wealth of stained glass information, stained glass tips, stained glass instruction, and many, many stained glass links. -----Original Message----- From: redswanne@mindspring.com [mailto:redswanne@mindspring.com] Sent: Thursday, June 27, 2002 7:59 AM To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Drilling question Can anyone suggest the best way they have found to drill holes directly into small pieces of glass. I am looking to make some windchimes, as well as run ribbon through some for other purposes, but have yet to find a bit t= hat can wistand the abuse..... Been wet drilling, using my dremel, and the bit doesn't seem to last more than a couple p= ieces.....Not a happy prospect since I am looking at drilling about 100. Thank you Jean Wagner Raleigh, NC -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web - Check your email from the web at http://mail2web.com/ . ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Jun 27 10:55:25 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 27 Jun 2002 09:22:37 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: comcast.net!esavad From: Mike Savad To: redswanne@mindspring.com, glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Subject: RE: Drilling question Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 10:09:51 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net> Precedence: bulk the best thing is a diamond dental drill bit. but i'm certain dremel has it's own line of diamond tipped tools. just be sure to use water, goggles, and even a breathing mask when you do it. ---Mike Savad --- Mike's Canon Powershot Pro90 IS - Photo Page 2 - http://www.pbase.com/savad - NEW --- Mike's Photosig Page - http://www.photosig.com/userphotos.php?id=9050 --- Mike's Canon Powershot Pro90 IS - Photo Page - http://www.savad.0catch.com/ --- Mike's Stained Glass - http: Contains a wealth of stained glass information, stained glass tips, stained glass instruction, and many, many stained glass links. -----Original Message----- From: redswanne@mindspring.com [mailto:redswanne@mindspring.com] Sent: Thursday, June 27, 2002 7:59 AM To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Drilling question Can anyone suggest the best way they have found to drill holes directly into small pieces of glass. I am looking to make some windchimes, as well as run ribbon through some for other purposes, but have yet to find a bit t= hat can wistand the abuse..... Been wet drilling, using my dremel, and the bit doesn't seem to last more than a couple p= ieces.....Not a happy prospect since I am looking at drilling about 100. Thank you Jean Wagner Raleigh, NC -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web - Check your email from the web at http://mail2web.com/ . ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Jun 27 11:07:25 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 27 Jun 2002 10:06:21 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: aol.com!CINDEL67 From: CINDEL67@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com, redswanne@mindspring.com Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_144.10a09223.2a4c9933_boundary" Subject: BUNGI...Re: Drilling question Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 12:37:07 EDT Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com> Precedence: bulk --part1_144.10a09223.2a4c9933_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Jean, I also tried my dremel with no luck. From reading ideas and such for other people....I've found that you need a diamond drill bit. I looked all over our town but couldn't find any. Someone suggested ebay and viola! That's were I got them. I've had NO problems with drilling holes in glass since. Cinda > Can anyone suggest the best way they have found to drill holes directly into > small pieces of glass. > > I am looking to make some windchimes, as well as run ribbon through some > for other purposes, but have yet to find a bit t= > hat can wistand the abuse..... Been wet drilling, using my dremel, and the > bit doesn't seem to last more than a couple p= > ieces.....Not a happy prospect since I am looking at drilling about 100. > > Thank you > > Jean Wagner > Raleigh, NC > > --part1_144.10a09223.2a4c9933_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Jean,
I also tried my dremel with no luck. From reading ideas and such for other people....I've found that you need a diamond drill bit. I looked all over our town but couldn't find any. Someone suggested ebay and viola! That's were I got them. I've had NO problems with drilling holes in glass since.

Cinda


Can anyone suggest the best way they have found to drill holes directly into small pieces of glass.

I am looking to make some windchimes, as well as run ribbon through some for other purposes, but have yet to find a bit t=
hat can wistand the abuse.....  Been wet drilling, using my dremel, and the bit doesn't seem to last more than a couple p=
ieces.....Not a happy prospect since I am looking at drilling about 100.

Thank you

Jean Wagner
Raleigh, NC



 --part1_144.10a09223.2a4c9933_boundary-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Jun 27 11:21:56 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 27 Jun 2002 09:44:00 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: stratus.com!Charlie.Spitzer From: "Spitzer, Charlie" To: "'glass@bungi.com'" Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: RE: polish edges Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 07:28:59 -0700 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@stratus.com> Precedence: bulk you could cold work the edges using diamond tools of varying grits, up to using cerium or polishing rouge. lots of work. you could also put the pieces in a kiln to get a fire polished edge. regards, charlie cave creek, az ps: please don't send mime mail to this list. > -----Original Message----- > From: The Glass Garden [mailto:TheGlassGarden@comcast.net] > Sent: Thursday, June 27, 2002 6:20 AM > To: glass@bungi.com > Subject: polish edges > > > This is a multi-part message in MIME format. > > --Boundary_(ID_pXICUs59kKd5VKCN6aTNFw) > Content-type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 > Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT > > Hi All! > I have a question for you....when you cut and grind glass > that is not going to be foiled...how do you polish the edge? > Any chemicals? > Wendy > > --Boundary_(ID_pXICUs59kKd5VKCN6aTNFw) > Content-type: text/html; charset=iso-8859-1 > Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT > > > > > > > > >
Hi All!
>
I have a question for > you....when you cut and grind > glass that is not going to be foiled...how do you polish the > edge?  Any > chemicals?
>
Wendy
> > --Boundary_(ID_pXICUs59kKd5VKCN6aTNFw)-- > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Jun 27 11:45:08 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 27 Jun 2002 09:44:00 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: stratus.com!Charlie.Spitzer From: "Spitzer, Charlie" To: "'glass@bungi.com'" Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: RE: polish edges Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 07:28:59 -0700 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@stratus.com> Precedence: bulk you could cold work the edges using diamond tools of varying grits, up to using cerium or polishing rouge. lots of work. you could also put the pieces in a kiln to get a fire polished edge. regards, charlie cave creek, az ps: please don't send mime mail to this list. > -----Original Message----- > From: The Glass Garden [mailto:TheGlassGarden@comcast.net] > Sent: Thursday, June 27, 2002 6:20 AM > To: glass@bungi.com > Subject: polish edges > > > This is a multi-part message in MIME format. > > --Boundary_(ID_pXICUs59kKd5VKCN6aTNFw) > Content-type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 > Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT > > Hi All! > I have a question for you....when you cut and grind glass > that is not going to be foiled...how do you polish the edge? > Any chemicals? > Wendy > > --Boundary_(ID_pXICUs59kKd5VKCN6aTNFw) > Content-type: text/html; charset=iso-8859-1 > Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT > > > > > > > > >
Hi All!
>
I have a question for > you....when you cut and grind > glass that is not going to be foiled...how do you polish the > edge?  Any > chemicals?
>
Wendy
> > --Boundary_(ID_pXICUs59kKd5VKCN6aTNFw)-- > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Jun 27 13:51:48 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 27 Jun 2002 13:21:34 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: hotmail.com!donaldleedy From: "donald leedy" To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed Subject: searching for scrap Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 13:20:26 -0700 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@hotmail.com> Precedence: bulk Can anybody give me a source for mouthblown scrap? I am in Portland, Ore., and can find nothing nearby...thanks. Don Leedy, brokenglass, Portland. _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Jun 27 14:21:39 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 27 Jun 2002 14:17:26 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: verizon.net!moya.oneal From: "Moya O'Neal" To: Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: re;Drilling Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 17:18:15 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@verizon.net> Precedence: bulk Jean, I found some diamond bit drills from www.AnythinginStained.com they are made by Glastar and come in 1/8" and 1/4" sizes. I have not used these, but they are said to be quite nice. This fits on your grinder. I am still using the one I bought at Lowe's. It is a diamond bit as well and I use it on a drill. I have probably drilled 40 holes with it. Hope this helps Moya ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Jun 27 15:56:04 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 27 Jun 2002 15:25:31 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: slonet.org!edupjohn From: "Peggy W. Johnsen" To: "redswanne@mindspring.com" Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Subject: Re: Drilling question Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 15:24:39 -0700 (PDT) Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@slonet.org> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@mindspring.com>> Precedence: bulk You can get a glass tile drill at the hardware store. It will come in 1/8, 1/4, and I believe 3/8 inch. Just put your glass in a shallow container and barely cover the glass. When you use a variable speed drill, don't press too hard and making the holes is a relative simple thing. About half way through the glass, turn it over and begin to drill on the other side. Good luck. PJ ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Jun 27 16:08:11 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 27 Jun 2002 15:27:03 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: slonet.org!edupjohn From: "Peggy W. Johnsen" To: "redswanne@mindspring.com" Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Subject: Re: Drilling question Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 15:26:23 -0700 (PDT) Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@slonet.org> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@mindspring.com>> Precedence: bulk PS. I just noticed you said you had about a 100? Maybe you want to consider sandblasting the holes. Cover the glass strip with resist after using a paper punch to punch the size hole into the resist. It doesn't take too long to blast through the glass...in fact I think I would prefer doing this rather than drilling. PJ ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Jun 27 16:26:03 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 27 Jun 2002 15:32:57 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: aol.com!CINDEL67 From: CINDEL67@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_170.fb95fa5.2a4cec53_boundary" Subject: BUNGI- Re: Drilling question Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 18:31:47 EDT Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com> Precedence: bulk --part1_170.fb95fa5.2a4cec53_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Nope....Dremel has no diamond tipped tools. I emailed them and spoke to them about it. They said that as of yet, they don't make any diamond tipped bits.....but maybe someday. > the best thing is a diamond dental drill bit. but i'm certain dremel has > it's own line of diamond tipped tools. just be sure to use water, goggles, > and even a breathing mask when you do it. > > > ---Mike Savad > --part1_170.fb95fa5.2a4cec53_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Nope....Dremel has no diamond tipped tools. I emailed them and spoke to them about it. They said that as of yet, they don't make any diamond tipped bits.....but maybe someday.


the best thing is a diamond dental drill bit. but i'm certain dremel has
it's own line of diamond tipped tools. just be sure to use water, goggles,
and even a breathing mask when you do it.


---Mike Savad


 --part1_170.fb95fa5.2a4cec53_boundary-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Jun 27 19:03:09 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 27 Jun 2002 18:51:38 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: comcast.net!esavad From: Mike Savad To: CINDEL67@aol.com, glass@bungi.com Content-Type: multipart/alternative; Subject: RE: BUNGI- Re: Drilling question Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 21:38:27 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net> Precedence: bulk This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --Boundary_(ID_Zk/Uv1jyhQvlfPC4HVKhKw) Content-type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT it might be black and decker. i do remember seeing it somewhere. ---Mike Savad --- Mike's Canon Powershot Pro90 IS - Photo Page 2 - http://www.pbase.com/savad - NEW --- Mike's Canon Powershot Pro90 IS - Photo Page - http://www.savad.0catch.com/ --- Contains a wealth of stained glass information, stained glass tips, stained glass instruction, and many, many stained glass links. -----Original Message----- From: CINDEL67@aol.com [mailto:CINDEL67@aol.com] Sent: Thursday, June 27, 2002 6:32 PM To: glass@bungi.com Subject: BUNGI- Re: Drilling question Nope....Dremel has no diamond tipped tools. I emailed them and spoke to them about it. They said that as of yet, they don't make any diamond tipped bits.....but maybe someday. the best thing is a diamond dental drill bit. but i'm certain dremel has it's own line of diamond tipped tools. just be sure to use water, goggles, and even a breathing mask when you do it. ---Mike Savad --Boundary_(ID_Zk/Uv1jyhQvlfPC4HVKhKw) Content-type: text/html; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT
 
it might be black and decker. i do remember seeing it somewhere.
 
 
---Mike Savad
 

---
Mike's Canon Powershot Pro90 IS - Photo Page 2 - http://www.pbase.com/savad - NEW
---
Mike's Canon Powershot Pro90 IS - Photo Page - http://www.savad.0catch.com/
---

Contains a wealth of stained glass information, stained glass tips, stained glass instruction, and many, many stained glass links.

-----Original Message-----
From: CINDEL67@aol.com [mailto:CINDEL67@aol.com]
Sent: Thursday, June 27, 2002 6:32 PM
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: BUNGI- Re: Drilling question

Nope....Dremel has no diamond tipped tools. I emailed them and spoke to them about it. They said that as of yet, they don't make any diamond tipped bits.....but maybe someday.


the best thing is a diamond dental drill bit. but i'm certain dremel has
it's own line of diamond tipped tools. just be sure to use water, goggles,
and even a breathing mask when you do it.


---Mike Savad


--Boundary_(ID_Zk/Uv1jyhQvlfPC4HVKhKw)-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Jun 27 20:09:11 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 27 Jun 2002 19:58:32 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: sympatico.ca!ron.amero From: "Ron Amero" To: , Content-Type: multipart/alternative; Subject: RE: BUNGI- Re: Drilling question Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 22:57:35 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@sympatico.ca> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>> Precedence: bulk This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C21E2E.0706A4C0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Interesting … since I am holding a diamond point Dremel bit (model 7117) in my hands. I recall getting it at Home Depot but not sure. They had a few different shapes in diamond but not a big selection. Now I should add, I’m in Canada but the bit comes Racine, WI and is made in Israel. Also, if it is diamond bits of the Dremel size you want, I bought a set of 30 industrial diamond burrs for about $30 US, very good quality, from Lee Valley Tools, item # 17J20.01 They have a US store as well which might be easier if you are in the USA. Check out the following URL http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?SID=&ccurrency=1&page=31021&category= 1,130,43409,43425 If Dremel doesn’t know what they have to sell, others do! Ron ******************************************************************** All outgoing e-mail scanned for viruses by Norton AntiVirus -----Original Message----- From: CINDEL67@aol.com [mailto:CINDEL67@aol.com] Sent: Thursday, June 27, 2002 6:32 PM To: glass@bungi.com Subject: BUNGI- Re: Drilling question Nope....Dremel has no diamond tipped tools. I emailed them and spoke to them about it. They said that as of yet, they don't make any diamond tipped bits.....but maybe someday. the best thing is a diamond dental drill bit. but i'm certain dremel has it's own line of diamond tipped tools. just be sure to use water, goggles, and even a breathing mask when you do it. ---Mike Savad ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C21E2E.0706A4C0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Interesting =85 since I am holding a diamond point = Dremel bit (model 7117) in my hands.=A0 I recall = getting it at Home Depot but not sure.=A0 = They had a few different shapes in diamond but not a big selection. Now I should = add, I=92m in Canada but the bit comes Racine, WI and is made in Israel.=A0 =

 

Al= so, if it is diamond bits of the Dremel size you want, I bought a set of 30 = industrial diamond burrs for about $30 US, very good quality, from Lee Valley = Tools, item # 17J20.01=A0 They have a US = store as well which might be easier if you are in the = USA. 

 

Ch= eck out the following URL

http://www.leevalley.co= m/wood/page.asp?SID=3D&ccurrency=3D1&page=3D31021&category=3D= 1,130,43409,43425

 

If= Dremel doesn=92t know what they have to sell, others = do!

 

Ro= n

 

************************************= ********************************=

All = outgoing e-mail scanned for viruses by Norton AntiVirus=

<= span class=3DEmailStyle15> 

-----Original Message-----
From: CINDEL67@aol.com [mailto:CINDEL67@aol.com]
Sent: Thursday, June 27, = 2002 6:32 PM
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: BUNGI- Re: = Drilling question

 

Nope....Dremel has no diamond = tipped tools. I emailed them and spoke to them about it. They said that as of = yet, they don't make any diamond tipped bits.....but maybe someday.



the best thing is a diamond dental drill bit. but i'm = certain dremel has
it's own line of diamond tipped tools. just be sure to use water, = goggles,
and even a breathing mask when you do it.


---Mike Savad



------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C21E2E.0706A4C0-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Jun 28 08:22:59 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 28 Jun 2002 08:01:38 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: stratus.com!Charlie.Spitzer From: "Spitzer, Charlie" To: "'glass@bungi.com'" Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: RE: BUNGI- Re: Drilling question Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 07:46:58 -0700 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@stratus.com> Precedence: bulk see http://dremel.com/html/products/accessories/carving.html scroll right to get to the diamond wheel points. ps: please don't send mime mail to the list. > -----Original Message----- > From: Ron Amero [mailto:ron.amero@sympatico.ca] > Sent: Thursday, June 27, 2002 7:58 PM > To: CINDEL67@aol.com > Subject: RE: BUNGI- Re: Drilling question > > > This is a multi-part message in MIME format. > > ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C21E2E.0706A4C0 > Content-Type: text/plain; > charset="Windows-1252" > Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit > > Interesting ... since I am holding a diamond point Dremel bit > (model 7117) in > my hands. I recall getting it at Home Depot but not sure. > They had a few > different shapes in diamond but not a big selection. Now I > should add, I'm > in Canada but the bit comes Racine, WI and is made in Israel. > > Also, if it is diamond bits of the Dremel size you want, I > bought a set of > 30 industrial diamond burrs for about $30 US, very good > quality, from Lee > Valley Tools, item # 17J20.01 They have a US store as well > which might be > easier if you are in the USA. > > Check out the following URL > http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?SID=&ccurrency=1&page=3 > 1021&category= > 1,130,43409,43425 > 31021&category > =1,130,43409,43425> > > If Dremel doesn't know what they have to sell, others do! > > Ron ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Jun 30 08:31:42 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 30 Jun 2002 08:16:39 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: yahoo.com!grownupedate4 From: Veduis Avernus To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: Fakes... Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2002 06:59:45 -0700 (PDT) Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com> Precedence: bulk There is something extremely wrong with every single person in this world. They seem to be part of a pointless simulation. "The Matrix" has portrayed this idea somewhat, yet we watch it and go back to our daily lives. Yet in this very life, underneath the seeming diversity in people's opinions, values, talents, and interests, there is something that makes everyone the same. It is as though this planet is populated only by mindless fakes, objects that provide the appearance of intellect on the surface but are based on only mechanical reflexes and primitive thought patterns. I don't really care if anything I say has been said before, if it was portrayed in movies, in books, or in the lyrics of some useless song. With 6 billion people covering the globe at any given time, thousands and thousands of years of written literature, probability dictates almost any combination of words has occurred numerous times. Yet there is clear evidence there was no action, so those words, just like the people who spoke them, must have been just more fakes. I am forced to use this language (also created by the fakes) because there is no alternative, so everything I write here could be misunderstood to make me sound like one of them, but it will be the action that I take and the dedication that will separate me from them. In my estimation the fakes that occupy this planet don't make up 99%, but more like 99.9999999% of the population. I know this because I've searched, and in my search have so far only found one true ally (I have found him via the internet as well). But even with those numbers we would not give up because there is no logic in giving up. The people on this planet are all fakes because the societies have made them this way. Ideas that populate people's minds have no logic or purpose. Concepts such as religion, god, morality, individualism, freedom, identity, happiness, love and billions of others are all just memes. Like parasites they infect the minds and spread from one person to the next. They have no point or purpose; they exist without any logical basis or foundation. The fakes are completely controlled by them, and they will never see beyond them. To not be controlled by them one must do more then just realize that they exist. One must resist any ideas that have no point, endlessly question, and never accept imperfection or compromise in any answer. We (myself and my ally) are different though. While we have had the limitation of existing only in these societies, something has made it possible for us to resist being indoctrinated into becoming one of those fakes. We have no arbitrary wants, needs, desires, or preferences. If this world continues to exist the way it is then nothing in it will ever have a point. It will always be just a product of random evolution, one with no importance or relevance. The only logical goal is to dedicate our lives to increasing our numbers, those that aren't fakes, so that in thousands of years our numbers may be such that the fakes would no longer be a threat to progress. Those that join us must see every other person occupying this planet as the enemy, and us as their only allies. Like us they must have dedication only to taking the most logical action, and to nothing else. To tell you more about us, we've posted some personal information about ourselves on a website. You'll also find past responses to us on that webpage. Obviously anyone reading this email is most likely just another fake. Do not simply reply to this email, if you do your message will almost certainly be ignored. If you do wish to communicate, first demonstrate your interest by taking the effort to find us online, one of the ways to do that is described below. Use a major search engine to search for every combination of any two words from the list below. The order of the words shouldn't matter as long as you do not search for them in quotes. Also when you pick the right combination you shouldn't need to look at more then the first matches. There is no trick to this and this isn't meant to be quick, it should, however, be fairly clear if/when you find the right site. The following search engines were verified by us, please use any of them as other search engines may simply not list us correctly: MSN, Lycos, InfoSeek, LookSmart, HotBot, InfoSpace, Google, Ask.com, AllTheWeb, Teoma, WebCrawler, AltaVista, AOL Search, Netscape Search. perfect theory endless desire eternal logic driving perpetual vision logical infinite dream final best escape objective thought only ambition clue perfection If this can't be solved, or if you never reach us, there should be no reason for you to give up as we will never give up and thus there will always be some way to find us. -------------- Ryan and Jacob __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Jun 30 19:26:49 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 30 Jun 2002 19:03:32 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #537 built 2002-Apr-28) X-Path: pro-ns.net!jdahlin From: "J. Dahlin" To: Bungi Glass Group Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: Concrete stepping stones Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2002 20:52:26 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@pro> Precedence: bulk Hi Suzanne: I just saw your message this evening. We got a new computer a couple of weeks ago and now both computers get e-mal messages depending upon which one of us checks messages. Joe got this one. I had some back luck with my stepping stones this year. I left them outside over winter and we had an EXTREMELY mild winter for Minnesota. All of the glass came off two of the stones. Of course I can redo them, but it was disappointing to say the least. I had not used a sealant, as I had been told you should use one. There are lots of theories going around. The very first stone that I had done (in a class) lost one piece of glass. I intent to try to glue that one back down one of these days. I realize Minnesota is not the same as Oklahoma, but I don't think I will leave my stones outside and exposed to the elments here again. Toward the end of the time that I was doing the stepping stones (it has been a couple of years) I tried using the cement with the fiberglass fibers in it. Those stones did not have any problems. By the way, Suzanne, are you going to Glass Visions this year? ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass