From owner-glass Fri Mar  1 08:00:36 2002
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From: Kay-Li Kim <kkim@gwkinc.com>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Glass bead-making classes
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 10:21:55 -0500 
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@gwkinc.com>
Precedence: bulk

> Hi,
> Do you offer glass bead-making classes? If so, what's the cost and
> schedule like? Please reply a.s.a.p.
> Thank you!
> 
> Kay-Li Kim
> Client Service
> Gannett, Welsh & Kotler
> Investment Management
> Phone: (617) 236-8900
> Fax: (617) 236-1815
> kkim@gwkinc.com
> 
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From owner-glass Fri Mar  1 10:09:41 2002
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From: "donald leedy" <donaldleedy@hotmail.com>
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Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
Subject: Re: Retail Source for 96 COE dichro
Date: Fri, 01 Mar 2002 09:56:00 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@hotmail.com>
Precedence: bulk

On the web, try "artglassemporium"<artglassemporium@netzero.net>...they are 
willing to sell smaller quantities of dichro..don leedy, brokenglass.


>From: Sue Reitmann <oddjob@scc.net>
>To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
>Subject: Retail Source for 96 COE dichro
>Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 08:33:28 -0600
>
>I am looking for a retail source that carries 96coe dichro. I prefer the
>smaller packages
>that retail anywhere from $3.00 to $15.00. Preferably the pattern designs.
>I live in Minneapolis and none of the retailers here carry it nor are they
>willing to at this time. I have briefly scanned the net, but have only
>found places that sell wholesale which won't help me.
>Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
>Sue
>
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_________________________________________________________________
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: 
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx

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From owner-glass Fri Mar  1 11:16:28 2002
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From: Patty.McMaster@fbol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Gatewayed mail message
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 12:38:26 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@fbol.com>
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Has anyone heard of Liquifusion ?
or know of where I could purchase
Glass
Craftsman magazine?
Thank YOU

              Have a nice day
                     ~~~
           Patricia McMaster
Technical Support Center Analyst
              314.592.8487
              314.592.8497  fax
       patty.mcmaster@fbol.com


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From owner-glass Fri Mar  1 11:44:00 2002
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X-Path: gte.net!rhpeltz
From: "Robert H. Peltz" <rhpeltz@gte.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: Cement
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 10:50:23 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@gte.net>
Precedence: bulk

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_001B_01C1C10E.E39FFB20
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I am getting into leaded glass and looking for a good cement. Many I =
have seen are like water and difficult to use, so I hear. Will =
appreciate any help. Thanks

Bob Peltz

------=_NextPart_000_001B_01C1C10E.E39FFB20
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4207.2601" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I am getting into leaded glass and =
looking for a=20
<U>good</U> <U>cement</U>. Many I have seen are like water and difficult =
to use,=20
so I hear. Will appreciate any help. Thanks</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Bob Peltz</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_001B_01C1C10E.E39FFB20--

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From owner-glass Fri Mar  1 11:53:01 2002
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From: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie.Spitzer@stratus.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: RE: Gatewayed mail message
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 12:30:46 -0700 
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http://www.glasscraftsman.com/index_GC.htm

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Patty.McMaster@fbol.com [mailto:Patty.McMaster@fbol.com]
> Sent: Friday, March 01, 2002 11:38 AM
> To: glass@bungi.com
> Subject: Gatewayed mail message
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone heard of Liquifusion ?
> or know of where I could purchase
> Glass
> Craftsman magazine?
> Thank YOU
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From owner-glass Fri Mar  1 13:00:58 2002
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From: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie.Spitzer@stratus.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: RE: Cement
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 12:59:26 -0700 
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@stratus.com>
Precedence: bulk

whiting, boiled linseed oil, and maybe a little lamp black for color. the
texture should be about like peanut butter.

regards,
charlie
cave creek, az

please don't post in mime.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Robert H. Peltz [mailto:rhpeltz@gte.net]
> Sent: Friday, March 01, 2002 11:50 AM
> To: glass@bungi.com
> Subject: Cement
> 
> 
> This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
> 
> ------=_NextPart_000_001B_01C1C10E.E39FFB20
> Content-Type: text/plain;
> 	charset="iso-8859-1"
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
> 
> I am getting into leaded glass and looking for a good cement. Many I =
> have seen are like water and difficult to use, so I hear. Will =
> appreciate any help. Thanks
> 
> Bob Peltz
> 
> ------=_NextPart_000_001B_01C1C10E.E39FFB20
> Content-Type: text/html;
> 	charset="iso-8859-1"
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
> 
> <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
> <HTML><HEAD>
> <META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
> charset=3Diso-8859-1">
> <META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4207.2601" name=3DGENERATOR>
> <STYLE></STYLE>
> </HEAD>
> <BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I am getting into leaded glass and =
> looking for a=20
> <U>good</U> <U>cement</U>. Many I have seen are like water 
> and difficult =
> to use,=20
> so I hear. Will appreciate any help. Thanks</FONT></DIV>
> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Bob Peltz</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
> 
> ------=_NextPart_000_001B_01C1C10E.E39FFB20--
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From owner-glass Fri Mar  1 14:34:05 2002
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X-Path: cox.net!gunnx4
From: "Suzanne Gunn" <gunnx4@cox.net>
To: "Kay-Li Kim" <kkim@gwkinc.com>,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Glass bead-making classes
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 14:50:04 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@cox.net>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@gwkinc.com>>
Organization: glsasdancer
Precedence: bulk

Probably your best bet for finding a class in your area would be to post a
message on the International Society of Glass Beadmakers forum.
www.ISGB.org

Suzanne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Kay-Li Kim" <kkim@gwkinc.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Friday, March 01, 2002 9:21 AM
Subject: Glass bead-making classes


> > Hi,
> > Do you offer glass bead-making classes? If so, what's the cost and
> > schedule like? Please reply a.s.a.p.
> > Thank you!
> >
> > Kay-Li Kim
> > Client Service
> > Gannett, Welsh & Kotler
> > Investment Management
> > Phone: (617) 236-8900
> > Fax: (617) 236-1815
> > kkim@gwkinc.com
> >
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>

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From owner-glass Fri Mar  1 15:14:52 2002
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Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_10c.dc1c89d.29b15cf6_boundary"
Subject: Re: Cement
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 17:38:46 EST
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Precedence: bulk


--part1_10c.dc1c89d.29b15cf6_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

The recipe for cement that I am publishing in the IGGA newsletter, comes from 
Steve Richard in Scotland (and is close to the one that I have used for 
years):
1 part boiled linseed oil
1 part mineral spirits (or turpentine)
7 parts whiting
1-2 TBSP lamp black or small amount of other dark colorant

I mix the liquids together and then slowly add the whiting until I get the 
consistency of thick molasses (on a cold morning, as Steve said...).

I usually add the colorant before the mixture is too thick.  Note: if you 
need the panel to dry faster, increase mineral spirits a little.  It 
evaporates quickly.
Ann 

--part1_10c.dc1c89d.29b15cf6_boundary
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  COLOR="#004080" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Franklin Gothic Book" LANG="0">The recipe for cement that I am publishing in the IGGA newsletter, comes from Steve Richard in Scotland (and is close to the one that I have used for years):<BR>
1 part boiled linseed oil<BR>
1 part mineral spirits (or turpentine)<BR>
7 parts whiting<BR>
1-2 TBSP lamp black or small amount of other dark colorant<BR>
<BR>
I mix the liquids together and then slowly add the whiting until I get the consistency of thick molasses (on a cold morning, as Steve said...).<BR>
<BR>
I usually add the colorant before the mixture is too thick.&nbsp; Note: if you need the panel to dry faster, increase mineral spirits a little.&nbsp; It evaporates quickly.<BR>
Ann <BR>
</FONT></HTML>
--part1_10c.dc1c89d.29b15cf6_boundary--
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From owner-glass Fri Mar  1 16:42:01 2002
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X-Path: comcast.net!cecnralph
From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@comcast.net>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type=54455854;
Subject: Re: Cement
Date: Fri, 01 Mar 2002 18:08:58 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@stratus.com>>
Organization: Grendel Studio
Precedence: bulk

NOT plaster of paris

"Spitzer, Charlie" wrote:

> whiting, boiled linseed oil, and maybe a little lamp black for color. the
> texture should be about like peanut butter.
>
> regards,
> charlie
> cave creek, az
>
> please don't post in mime.
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Robert H. Peltz [mailto:rhpeltz@gte.net]
> > Sent: Friday, March 01, 2002 11:50 AM
> > To: glass@bungi.com
> > Subject: Cement
> >
> >
> > This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
> >
> > ------=_NextPart_000_001B_01C1C10E.E39FFB20
> > Content-Type: text/plain;
> >       charset="iso-8859-1"
> > Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
> >
> > I am getting into leaded glass and looking for a good cement. Many I =
> > have seen are like water and difficult to use, so I hear. Will =
> > appreciate any help. Thanks
> >
> > Bob Peltz
> >
> > ------=_NextPart_000_001B_01C1C10E.E39FFB20
> > Content-Type: text/html;
> >       charset="iso-8859-1"
> > Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
> >
> > <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
> > <HTML><HEAD>
> > <META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
> > charset=3Diso-8859-1">
> > <META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4207.2601" name=3DGENERATOR>
> > <STYLE></STYLE>
> > </HEAD>
> > <BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
> > <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I am getting into leaded glass and =
> > looking for a=20
> > <U>good</U> <U>cement</U>. Many I have seen are like water
> > and difficult =
> > to use,=20
> > so I hear. Will appreciate any help. Thanks</FONT></DIV>
> > <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
> > <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Bob Peltz</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
> >
> > ------=_NextPart_000_001B_01C1C10E.E39FFB20--
> ----
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From owner-glass Fri Mar  1 20:29:56 2002
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Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 22:01:04 -0500
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MG PUBLISHING
916 STE-ADELE BLVD., # 103
QC
J8B 2N2




PRESS RELEASE

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From owner-glass Sat Mar  2 10:07:07 2002
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From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@comcast.net>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type=54455854;
Subject: Re: Cement
Date: Sat, 02 Mar 2002 11:01:41 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net>
References: <<75F036A5970CD311A993009027283DC40138D2F4@exphx.az.stratus.com>>
Organization: Grendel Studio
Precedence: bulk

You didn't - nobody did, but many old recipes in books give that as an
ingredient.

"Spitzer, Charlie" wrote:

> who said anything about plaster of paris? whiting isn't that.
>
> regards,
> charlie
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Cecily & Ralph Wood [mailto:cecnralph@comcast.net]
> > Sent: Friday, March 01, 2002 4:09 PM
> > To: Bungi Glass
> > Subject: Re: Cement
> >
> >
> > NOT plaster of paris
> >
> > "Spitzer, Charlie" wrote:
> >
> > > whiting, boiled linseed oil, and maybe a little lamp black
> > for color. the
> > > texture should be about like peanut butter.
> > >
> > > regards,
> > > charlie
> > > cave creek, az
> > >
> > > please don't post in mime.
> > >
> > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > From: Robert H. Peltz [mailto:rhpeltz@gte.net]
> > > > Sent: Friday, March 01, 2002 11:50 AM
> > > > To: glass@bungi.com
> > > > Subject: Cement
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
> > > >
> > > > ------=_NextPart_000_001B_01C1C10E.E39FFB20
> > > > Content-Type: text/plain;
> > > >       charset="iso-8859-1"
> > > > Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
> > > >
> > > > I am getting into leaded glass and looking for a good
> > cement. Many I =
> > > > have seen are like water and difficult to use, so I hear. Will =
> > > > appreciate any help. Thanks
> > > >
> > > > Bob Peltz
> > > >
> > > > ------=_NextPart_000_001B_01C1C10E.E39FFB20
> > > > Content-Type: text/html;
> > > >       charset="iso-8859-1"
> > > > Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
> > > >
> > > > <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
> > > > <HTML><HEAD>
> > > > <META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
> > > > charset=3Diso-8859-1">
> > > > <META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4207.2601" name=3DGENERATOR>
> > > > <STYLE></STYLE>
> > > > </HEAD>
> > > > <BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
> > > > <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I am getting into leaded
> > glass and =
> > > > looking for a=20
> > > > <U>good</U> <U>cement</U>. Many I have seen are like water
> > > > and difficult =
> > > > to use,=20
> > > > so I hear. Will appreciate any help. Thanks</FONT></DIV>
> > > > <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
> > > > <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Bob
> > Peltz</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
> > > >
> > > > ------=_NextPart_000_001B_01C1C10E.E39FFB20--
> > > ----
> > > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> >
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> >

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From owner-glass Sat Mar  2 13:43:59 2002
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X-Path: gte.net!rhpeltz
From: "Robert H. Peltz" <rhpeltz@gte.net>
To: <Awbaxter@aol.com>,
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: Re: Cement
Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2002 12:14:19 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@gte.net>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>>
Precedence: bulk

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0016_01C1C1E3.C7C380E0
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Thanks for the information. I saw this formula but it also contained =
plaster paris and portland cement. Are these needed? Thanks again

Bob Peltz
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Awbaxter@aol.com=20
  To: rhpeltz@gte.net ; glass@bungi.com=20
  Sent: Friday, March 01, 2002 2:38 PM
  Subject: Re: Cement


  The recipe for cement that I am publishing in the IGGA newsletter, =
comes from Steve Richard in Scotland (and is close to the one that I =
have used for years):
  1 part boiled linseed oil
  1 part mineral spirits (or turpentine)
  7 parts whiting
  1-2 TBSP lamp black or small amount of other dark colorant

  I mix the liquids together and then slowly add the whiting until I get =
the consistency of thick molasses (on a cold morning, as Steve said...).

  I usually add the colorant before the mixture is too thick.  Note: if =
you need the panel to dry faster, increase mineral spirits a little.  It =
evaporates quickly.
  Ann=20


------=_NextPart_000_0016_01C1C1E3.C7C380E0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4207.2601" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Thanks for the information. I saw this =
formula but=20
it also contained plaster&nbsp;paris and portland cement. Are these =
needed?=20
Thanks again</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Bob Peltz</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A title=3DAwbaxter@aol.com =
href=3D"mailto:Awbaxter@aol.com">Awbaxter@aol.com</A>=20
  </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=3Drhpeltz@gte.net=20
  href=3D"mailto:rhpeltz@gte.net">rhpeltz@gte.net</A> ; <A =
title=3Dglass@bungi.com=20
  href=3D"mailto:glass@bungi.com">glass@bungi.com</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Friday, March 01, 2002 =
2:38=20
PM</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: Cement</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT lang=3D0=20
  face=3D"Franklin Gothic Book" color=3D#004080 size=3D2 =
FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF">The recipe=20
  for cement that I am publishing in the IGGA newsletter, comes from =
Steve=20
  Richard in Scotland (and is close to the one that I have used for =
years):<BR>1=20
  part boiled linseed oil<BR>1 part mineral spirits (or turpentine)<BR>7 =
parts=20
  whiting<BR>1-2 TBSP lamp black or small amount of other dark =
colorant<BR><BR>I=20
  mix the liquids together and then slowly add the whiting until I get =
the=20
  consistency of thick molasses (on a cold morning, as Steve =
said...).<BR><BR>I=20
  usually add the colorant before the mixture is too thick.&nbsp; Note: =
if you=20
  need the panel to dry faster, increase mineral spirits a little.&nbsp; =
It=20
  evaporates quickly.<BR>Ann =
<BR></BLOCKQUOTE></FONT></FONT></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0016_01C1C1E3.C7C380E0--

----
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From owner-glass Sat Mar  2 21:23:16 2002
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	for rglass-42; Sat, 2 Mar 2002 20:39:02 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: cox.net!gunnx4
From: "Suzanne Gunn" <gunnx4@cox.net>
To: "Robert H. Peltz" <rhpeltz@gte.net>,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Cement
Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2002 19:21:02 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@cox.net>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@gte.net>>
Organization: glsasdancer
Precedence: bulk

No, perhaps *putty* is a better word than cemet.

Repair a few old windows and you will NEVER use
cement, or plaster of paris in your putty.

Suzanne


----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert H. Peltz" <rhpeltz@gte.net>
To: <Awbaxter@aol.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 02, 2002 2:14 PM
Subject: Re: Cement


> This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
>
> ------=_NextPart_000_0016_01C1C1E3.C7C380E0
> Content-Type: text/plain;
> charset="iso-8859-1"
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
>
> Thanks for the information. I saw this formula but it also contained =
> plaster paris and portland cement. Are these needed? Thanks again
>
> Bob Peltz
>   ----- Original Message -----=20
>   From: Awbaxter@aol.com=20
>   To: rhpeltz@gte.net ; glass@bungi.com=20
>   Sent: Friday, March 01, 2002 2:38 PM
>   Subject: Re: Cement
>
>
>   The recipe for cement that I am publishing in the IGGA newsletter, =
> comes from Steve Richard in Scotland (and is close to the one that I =
> have used for years):
>   1 part boiled linseed oil
>   1 part mineral spirits (or turpentine)
>   7 parts whiting
>   1-2 TBSP lamp black or small amount of other dark colorant
>
>   I mix the liquids together and then slowly add the whiting until I get =
> the consistency of thick molasses (on a cold morning, as Steve said...).
>
>   I usually add the colorant before the mixture is too thick.  Note: if =
> you need the panel to dry faster, increase mineral spirits a little.  It =
> evaporates quickly.
>   Ann=20
>
>
> ------=_NextPart_000_0016_01C1C1E3.C7C380E0
> Content-Type: text/html;
> charset="iso-8859-1"
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
>
> <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
> <HTML><HEAD>
> <META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
> charset=3Diso-8859-1">
> <META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4207.2601" name=3DGENERATOR>
> <STYLE></STYLE>
> </HEAD>
> <BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Thanks for the information. I saw this =
> formula but=20
> it also contained plaster&nbsp;paris and portland cement. Are these =
> needed?=20
> Thanks again</FONT></DIV>
> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Bob Peltz</FONT></DIV>
> <BLOCKQUOTE=20
> style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
> BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
>   <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
>   <DIV=20
>   style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
> black"><B>From:</B>=20
>   <A title=3DAwbaxter@aol.com =
> href=3D"mailto:Awbaxter@aol.com">Awbaxter@aol.com</A>=20
>   </DIV>
>   <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=3Drhpeltz@gte.net=20
>   href=3D"mailto:rhpeltz@gte.net">rhpeltz@gte.net</A> ; <A =
> title=3Dglass@bungi.com=20
>   href=3D"mailto:glass@bungi.com">glass@bungi.com</A> </DIV>
>   <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Friday, March 01, 2002 =
> 2:38=20
> PM</DIV>
>   <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: Cement</DIV>
>   <DIV><BR></DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT lang=3D0=20
>   face=3D"Franklin Gothic Book" color=3D#004080 size=3D2 =
> FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF">The recipe=20
>   for cement that I am publishing in the IGGA newsletter, comes from =
> Steve=20
>   Richard in Scotland (and is close to the one that I have used for =
> years):<BR>1=20
>   part boiled linseed oil<BR>1 part mineral spirits (or turpentine)<BR>7 =
> parts=20
>   whiting<BR>1-2 TBSP lamp black or small amount of other dark =
> colorant<BR><BR>I=20
>   mix the liquids together and then slowly add the whiting until I get =
> the=20
>   consistency of thick molasses (on a cold morning, as Steve =
> said...).<BR><BR>I=20
>   usually add the colorant before the mixture is too thick.&nbsp; Note: =
> if you=20
>   need the panel to dry faster, increase mineral spirits a little.&nbsp; =
> It=20
>   evaporates quickly.<BR>Ann =
> <BR></BLOCKQUOTE></FONT></FONT></BODY></HTML>
>
> ------=_NextPart_000_0016_01C1C1E3.C7C380E0--
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

----
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From owner-glass Sun Mar  3 02:35:40 2002
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	for rglass-42; Sun, 3 Mar 2002 01:29:57 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: "Robert H. Peltz" <rhpeltz@gte.net>
Subject: Cementing
Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 08:36:43 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@verrier>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@gte.net>>
Precedence: bulk

Robert,
        I see you have had several messages on the recipe for lead light
cement.  You mention difficulty in using the liquid cements.  There is
an article in the forthcoming International Guild of Glass Artists
Newsletter on the application of cement to panels.
        Contact Ann Baxter  <Awbaxter@aol.com> for information on
getting a copy
        or Jill Medyln <JzzyGlass@aol.com> for membership of IGGA.

The information is there.
Steve

In message <1970Jan1.000.0@gte.net>, Robert H. Peltz <rhpeltz@gte.net>
writes
>This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
>
>------=_NextPart_000_001B_01C1C10E.E39FFB20
>Content-Type: text/plain;
>       charset="iso-8859-1"
>Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
>
>I am getting into leaded glass and looking for a good cement. Many I =
>have seen are like water and difficult to use, so I hear. Will =
>appreciate any help. Thanks
>
>Bob Peltz
>
>------=_NextPart_000_001B_01C1C10E.E39FFB20
>Content-Type: text/html;
>       charset="iso-8859-1"
>Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
>
><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
><HTML><HEAD>
><META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
>charset=3Diso-8859-1">
><META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4207.2601" name=3DGENERATOR>
><STYLE></STYLE>
></HEAD>
><BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
><DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I am getting into leaded glass and =
>looking for a=20
><U>good</U> <U>cement</U>. Many I have seen are like water and difficult =
>to use,=20
>so I hear. Will appreciate any help. Thanks</FONT></DIV>
><DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
><DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Bob Peltz</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
>
>------=_NextPart_000_001B_01C1C10E.E39FFB20--
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
----
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From owner-glass Tue Mar  5 18:28:23 2002
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X-Path: comcast.net!cecnralph
From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@comcast.net>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type=54455854;
Subject: test
Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 21:00:58 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net>
Organization: Grendel Studio
Precedence: bulk

I know my email has been down some, but not that much - nothing for
several days - Cec

----
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From owner-glass Wed Mar  6 12:41:24 2002
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	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: doorpi.net!mmam5
From: "Marci" <mmam5@doorpi.net>
To: "Cecily & Ralph Wood" <cecnralph@comcast.net>,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: testing and glass working
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 14:26:42 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@doorpi.net>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net>>
Precedence: bulk

Hi ya'll!

I think we're all busy again!   Since I've joined the list, in the past two
months I've purchased a graphon saw - mainly cuze of the cheaper price and I
just wanted to get a saw. It's been wonderful so far. It does vibrate, but
if you hold the glass tightly it doesn't seem to be a problem.

This last week I also picked up a Morton glass Safety break system. Wow, it
does make a difference if you get some specialized instructions and actually
see it being used! I'm not ready to give up my running pliers and grozier,
but had great results in cutting this past week!

The last thing I picked up was a circle cutter. I had tried cheapie $20 ones
before and usually ended returning them. I found one from Germany (Bohle),
made of real metal and suction cups to the glass! WOW what fun! Can't wait
to start using it for projects!!  One of the impromptu demonstrations I saw
was cutting a circle and using the safety break running tool to break the
glass - verry awesome. . . little waste of glass.

OK - I have to get back to work foiling and grinding! Have fun! Cut some
glass!

Marci
Martin Designs
www.mmartindesigns.com

----- Original Message -----
From: "Cecily & Ralph Wood" <cecnralph@comcast.net>
To: "Bungi Glass" <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 05, 2002 8:00 PM
Subject: test


> I know my email has been down some, but not that much - nothing for
> several days - Cec
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>


----
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From owner-glass Wed Mar  6 23:49:01 2002
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	for rglass-42; Wed, 6 Mar 2002 23:43:49 -0800 (PST)
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X-Path: doorpi.net!mmam5
From: "Marci" <mmam5@doorpi.net>
To: <Patty.McMaster@fbol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: glass tools
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 20:55:24 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@doorpi.net>
References: <<OF48B7E17B.4E886D47-ON86256B74.0072B980@firstbank-online.com>>
Precedence: bulk

http://www.glass1usa.com/glass_tools.html

I picked up the following circle cutter:  Original Silberschnitt Cutter
Although since I bought it from a glass shop I paid twice as much as this
website is selling it for!  Still a great deal though.


----- Original Message -----
From: <Patty.McMaster@fbol.com>
To: "Marci" <mmam5@doorpi.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 06, 2002 2:53 PM
Subject: Re: testing and glass working


>
>
> I am interested in the circle cutter from
> Germany - my cousin lives there & he is coming over soon
> was it expensive ?
>
>               Have a nice day
>                      ~~~
>            Patricia McMaster
> Technical Support Center Analyst
>               314.592.8487
>               314.592.8497  fax
>        patty.mcmaster@fbol.com
>



----
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From owner-glass Thu Mar  7 01:19:12 2002
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	for rglass-42; Thu, 7 Mar 2002 01:13:59 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: writingmachine.com!ClaireF
From: Claire Fuller <ClaireF@writingmachine.com>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Circle cutter (bungi)
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 09:10:39 -0000 
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@writingmachine.com>
Precedence: bulk

I'm trying to find a good circle cutter, but I want one which cuts really
small circles - 2cm or 3cm diameter if that is possible. How small does
yours cut? And how much was it?

Claire
(Winchester - UK)

Claire Fuller
Writing Machine
Tel: 01962841250
Fax: 01962 870558
www.writingmachine.com


-----Original Message-----
From: Marci [mailto:mmam5@doorpi.net]
Sent: 06 March 2002 20:27
To: Cecily & Ralph Wood
Subject: testing and glass working


Hi ya'll!

I think we're all busy again!   Since I've joined the list, in the past two
months I've purchased a graphon saw - mainly cuze of the cheaper price and I
just wanted to get a saw. It's been wonderful so far. It does vibrate, but
if you hold the glass tightly it doesn't seem to be a problem.

This last week I also picked up a Morton glass Safety break system. Wow, it
does make a difference if you get some specialized instructions and actually
see it being used! I'm not ready to give up my running pliers and grozier,
but had great results in cutting this past week!

The last thing I picked up was a circle cutter. I had tried cheapie $20 ones
before and usually ended returning them. I found one from Germany (Bohle),
made of real metal and suction cups to the glass! WOW what fun! Can't wait
to start using it for projects!!  One of the impromptu demonstrations I saw
was cutting a circle and using the safety break running tool to break the
glass - verry awesome. . . little waste of glass.

OK - I have to get back to work foiling and grinding! Have fun! Cut some
glass!

Marci
Martin Designs
www.mmartindesigns.com

----- Original Message -----
From: "Cecily & Ralph Wood" <cecnralph@comcast.net>
To: "Bungi Glass" <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 05, 2002 8:00 PM
Subject: test


> I know my email has been down some, but not that much - nothing for
> several days - Cec
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>


----
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To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
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From owner-glass Thu Mar  7 17:08:49 2002
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From owner-glass Fri Mar  8 22:35:54 2002
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From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@comcast.net>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
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Subject: lead-free deadline
Date: Sat, 09 Mar 2002 01:13:00 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net>
Organization: Grendel Studio
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The Glass Craftsman issue of Feb/Mar 2002 had an article about the
oncoming end of lead - probably 2007.  At first it will affect only
larger studios, but of course, once they don't provide the level of
volume of sales, the manufacturers will no longer make it.

Commonly available are lead free solders, but are there several types?
Lead free solder is very shiny - so it cannot easily be used for repair,
I wouldn't think.  Does it take patina?

They mention only two came replacements - one is Classic Ultra Came,
which is tin/copper and somewhat flexible.  The other is zinc, which
anyone who has ever used it knows has no bend at all, and so it is
virtually unusable inside a design.

So my questions to you are who has used any alternatives to lead, and
what did you use, and how did it work?

Probably those of you in the UK are more aware of the impending doom
than those of us in the US.  It is, however, a worldwide
environmental/health saftey issue, with legislation all over Europe and
in Japan, and maybe more countries and areas.

I may use this information as a basis for an IGGA article for the
newsletter. - Cecily

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From owner-glass Sat Mar  9 02:11:37 2002
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From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: lead-free deadline
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 2002 09:26:14 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@verrier>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net>>
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Cecily,
        I would like to know of the USA legal basis for the restriction
of the use of lead in windows.  We have had this scare before.  What are
the government guidelines? and why are only the larger studios affected
at first?

        Could you send me a copy of the article (or its drift)?  I don't
have access to it here.

        In the UK there is no hint (to may knowledge) of any restriction
in the use of lead for windows, new or restored.


Steve

In message <1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net>, Cecily & Ralph Wood
<cecnralph@comcast.net> writes
>The Glass Craftsman issue of Feb/Mar 2002 had an article about the
>oncoming end of lead - probably 2007.  At first it will affect only
>larger studios, but of course, once they don't provide the level of
>volume of sales, the manufacturers will no longer make it.
>
>Commonly available are lead free solders, but are there several types?
>Lead free solder is very shiny - so it cannot easily be used for repair,
>I wouldn't think.  Does it take patina?
>
>They mention only two came replacements - one is Classic Ultra Came,
>which is tin/copper and somewhat flexible.  The other is zinc, which
>anyone who has ever used it knows has no bend at all, and so it is
>virtually unusable inside a design.
>
>So my questions to you are who has used any alternatives to lead, and
>what did you use, and how did it work?
>
>Probably those of you in the UK are more aware of the impending doom
>than those of us in the US.  It is, however, a worldwide
>environmental/health saftey issue, with legislation all over Europe and
>in Japan, and maybe more countries and areas.
>
>I may use this information as a basis for an IGGA article for the
>newsletter. - Cecily
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Sat Mar  9 02:25:25 2002
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From: "studio@stainedglass.co.uk" <studio@stainedglass.co.uk>
To: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@comcast.net>,glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: lead-free deadline
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 2002 09:37:10 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@stainedglass.co.uk>
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Cecily 
As far as I have been able to find out after talking to the articles writer
and our suppliers over here there is NO discussion over here about having to
do without lead came in windows!!
I gather the lead ban is about the electronics industry and it has not been
thought in UK that it would have any affect on our 'industry'/craft - if
anything is known about it at all.
Wasnt the article written by a manufacturer of 'leadfree' came?
Regards
Elizabeth in UK
http://www.stainedglass.co.uk
===================================

- At 01:13 09/03/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>The Glass Craftsman issue of Feb/Mar 2002 had an article about the
>oncoming end of lead - probably 2007.  At first it will affect only
>larger studios, but of course, once they don't provide the level of
>volume of sales, the manufacturers will no longer make it.
>
>Commonly available are lead free solders, but are there several types?
>Lead free solder is very shiny - so it cannot easily be used for repair,
>I wouldn't think.  Does it take patina?
>
>They mention only two came replacements - one is Classic Ultra Came,
>which is tin/copper and somewhat flexible.  The other is zinc, which
>anyone who has ever used it knows has no bend at all, and so it is
>virtually unusable inside a design.
>
>So my questions to you are who has used any alternatives to lead, and
>what did you use, and how did it work?
>
>Probably those of you in the UK are more aware of the impending doom
>than those of us in the US.  It is, however, a worldwide
>environmental/health saftey issue, with legislation all over Europe and
>in Japan, and maybe more countries and areas.
>
>I may use this information as a basis for an IGGA article for the
>newsletter. - Cecily
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>


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From owner-glass Sat Mar  9 07:52:06 2002
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From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@comcast.net>
To: "studio@stainedglass.co.uk" <studio@stainedglass.co.uk>,
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type=54455854;
Subject: Re: lead-free deadline
Date: Sat, 09 Mar 2002 10:03:02 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net>
References: <<B0011044907@mailhost.lds.co.uk>>
Organization: Grendel Studio
Precedence: bulk

That's good to know.  However, considering the EPA reporting and the stained
glass "industry" falling directly under it, I think we can assume we will be
targeted too.  And, as soon as manufacturers start targeting lead free
products to those segments of former lead users that are covered, I think we
see an significant increase in prices, if not find the availability of  lead
supplies becoming a real problem.  One obvious result will be the closure of
lead mines, making the raw product scarce. - Cecily

"studio@stainedglass.co.uk" wrote:

> A quote from a letter from Alan Sherry :
> The European Countries (EEC) proposal to ban lead materials which takes
> effect in 2007 covers primarily lead in electronics and electrical
> materials.  It will be expanded later, but when to the glass industry, I am
> not sure.  The Japanese roadmap seems to cover all materials.
>
> For the latest in-depth info. on the worldwide movement see:
> www.lead-free.org
>
> Regards
> Elizabeth in UK
>
> Bournemouth Stained Glass
> http://www.stainedglass.co.uk
> UK Charter Member RAGS

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From owner-glass Sat Mar  9 08:22:49 2002
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To: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@comcast.net>,glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: lead-free deadline
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 2002 10:29:07 +0000
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A quote from a letter from Alan Sherry :
The European Countries (EEC) proposal to ban lead materials which takes
effect in 2007 covers primarily lead in electronics and electrical
materials.  It will be expanded later, but when to the glass industry, I am
not sure.  The Japanese roadmap seems to cover all materials.

For the latest in-depth info. on the worldwide movement see:
www.lead-free.org

Regards
Elizabeth in UK

Bournemouth Stained Glass
http://www.stainedglass.co.uk
UK Charter Member RAGS


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From owner-glass Sat Mar  9 09:24:11 2002
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From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@comcast.net>
To: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>,
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type=54455854;
Subject: Re: lead-free deadline
Date: Sat, 09 Mar 2002 09:54:48 -0500
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References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net>>
Organization: Grendel Studio
Precedence: bulk

The article, "A Lead-Free World is Almost Here", p34-5, was written by Alan
Sherry, president of Stellar Technical Products, a major soldering materials
supplier, and before that employed by Fry Metals.

His history of the banning states that in the US in 1988 the US senate first
attempted to ban lead in everything, until they realized it was used in
soldering high-tech weapons and circuit boards, and there was (at the time)
no replacement alloy.  So they banned certain non-essential uses like
pigments, dyes, ceramics, and plumbing solders, and a target date of 2007
was set to work toward in finding replacement materials for the essential
uses.  (I don't know how that affects lead in glass - such as lead crystal)

Meanwhile the Council of Ministers of European Covernments passed a
resolution for a January 2007 total ban on lead and other hazardous
substances.  (He doesn't mention the UK separately, but I thought there was
an impending ban separate from the Euro one.)

Anyway, the Japanese welding and electronics industries proposed in 2000 a
timetable for the ban of all lead based solders by 2005.  NEC and Fujitsu
plan to eliminate all lead from their products in December 2002,  and Sony
by March 2002,.

That will necessarily speed up the US and Euro industries, since
manufacturers will be producing things to the Japanese standards.

There is also a stringent new lead handling rule by the US Environmental
Protection Agency (EPA) that started January 17 last year (2001).  The
threshold for reporting lead use went from 10,000 pounds to 100 pounds!  A
company is required to report to the EPA if it meet all three of the
following:  1) imports or manufactures or processes (uses) more than 100
pounds of lead (came and in lead compounds like solder).  2)  10 or more
employees   3)  included in certain Standard Industrial Classification (SIC)
codes (numbered 2000 to 3999.

The first reporting is due THIS JULY 1 for last year's use.  Call
800-535-0202 or www.epa.gov/tri/ to get Form R.  Failure to file can cost up
to $27,500 per DAY!!!

Who must file:  If your US business falls under SIC Code 3231 (Stained
Glass, or Windows, stained glass), have 10 or more employees (or equivalent)
and use (or sell?) more than 200 lbs of 50/50 solder a year.  Adjust for
60/40 solders, or use of came, etc.

As for the ban - I don't know if there is some sort of grandfather clause
that allows for non-complient uses, such as repairing stained glass
(particularly for historical listed architectural sites) .  But, even if
there is an exemption, certainly the ban will make glass repair a far more
costly process than it already is - which is already pretty ruinous for an
average church or private home. - Cecily



Steve Richard wrote:

> Cecily,
>         I would like to know of the USA legal basis for the restriction
> of the use of lead in windows.  We have had this scare before.  What are
> the government guidelines? and why are only the larger studios affected
> at first?
>
>         Could you send me a copy of the article (or its drift)?  I don't
> have access to it here.
>
>         In the UK there is no hint (to may knowledge) of any restriction
> in the use of lead for windows, new or restored.
>
> Steve
>
> In message <1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net>, Cecily & Ralph Wood
> <cecnralph@comcast.net> writes
> >The Glass Craftsman issue of Feb/Mar 2002 had an article about the
> >oncoming end of lead - probably 2007.  At first it will affect only
> >larger studios, but of course, once they don't provide the level of
> >volume of sales, the manufacturers will no longer make it.
> >
> >Commonly available are lead free solders, but are there several types?
> >Lead free solder is very shiny - so it cannot easily be used for repair,
> >I wouldn't think.  Does it take patina?
> >
> >They mention only two came replacements - one is Classic Ultra Came,
> >which is tin/copper and somewhat flexible.  The other is zinc, which
> >anyone who has ever used it knows has no bend at all, and so it is
> >virtually unusable inside a design.
> >
> >So my questions to you are who has used any alternatives to lead, and
> >what did you use, and how did it work?
> >
> >Probably those of you in the UK are more aware of the impending doom
> >than those of us in the US.  It is, however, a worldwide
> >environmental/health saftey issue, with legislation all over Europe and
> >in Japan, and maybe more countries and areas.
> >
> >I may use this information as a basis for an IGGA article for the
> >newsletter. - Cecily
> >
> >----
> >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> >To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
> --
> Steve Richard
> Verrier Art Glass Ltd
> s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk

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From owner-glass Sat Mar  9 09:54:38 2002
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From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@comcast.net>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type=54455854;
Subject: Tigertail
Date: Sat, 09 Mar 2002 12:09:37 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net>
Organization: Grendel Studio
Precedence: bulk

Tigertail is a wire string that is covered with nylon or polyester
fibers.

I put together a glass wind chime I'd made the components for in the
kiln.  I used Tigertail because that seemed to be the most flexible but
also the least likely to break.  Too often wind chimes seem to break if
they have wire, because the metal flexes in the same place, so the metal
fatique makes a break place.  And the fiber ones seem to just
disintegrate.

However, Tigertail is a real bitch to use!  Very hard to tie off in good
tight knots.  I was afraid to cut close to the knot in case I'd have to
tighten it,  In consequence it has this whiskery hairy look - pretty
dreadful.

How does one finish the knots using Tigertail?  Can I cut close to the
knots?  Can I apply heat (like a match) to the cut ends and knots, so
that i fuses together?

The wind chime sounds lovely, but it looks really really bad.  I
intended it for myself, but even I have to admit how unsightly it is.

And anyone who has a better idea for stringing the chimes if I ever do
that again, please set me on the right track! - Cecily

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From owner-glass Sat Mar  9 11:27:18 2002
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From: Sherry Greer <texpenguin@yahoo.com>
To: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@comcast.net>, GlassList <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Tigertail
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 2002 10:50:59 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net>>
Precedence: bulk

When tigertail is used in jewelry (bead stringing, etc), it's often
finished with jewelry crimp beads, tiny metal beads that you string on
the tigertail, then thread the knot tail back through and flatten down
with pliers, trim close to bead.  Or maybe you could use drops of super
glue on the knots to seal them before trimming?
Sherry

--- Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@comcast.net> wrote:
> Tigertail is a wire string that is covered with nylon or polyester
> fibers.
> 
> I put together a glass wind chime I'd made the components for in the
> kiln.  I used Tigertail because that seemed to be the most flexible
> but
> also the least likely to break.  Too often wind chimes seem to break
> if
> they have wire, because the metal flexes in the same place, so the
> metal
> fatique makes a break place.  And the fiber ones seem to just
> disintegrate.
> 
> However, Tigertail is a real bitch to use!  Very hard to tie off in
> good
> tight knots.  I was afraid to cut close to the knot in case I'd have
> to
> tighten it,  In consequence it has this whiskery hairy look - pretty
> dreadful.
> 
> How does one finish the knots using Tigertail?  Can I cut close to
> the
> knots?  Can I apply heat (like a match) to the cut ends and knots, so
> that i fuses together?
> 
> The wind chime sounds lovely, but it looks really really bad.  I
> intended it for myself, but even I have to admit how unsightly it is.
> 
> And anyone who has a better idea for stringing the chimes if I ever
> do
> that again, please set me on the right track! - Cecily
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


=====
Sherry Greer
texpenguin@yahoo.com

__________________________________________________
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From owner-glass Sat Mar  9 12:31:20 2002
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X-Path: unm.edu!pjohnso
From: zoe johnson <pjohnso@unm.edu>
To: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@comcast.net>, Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
Subject: Re: Tigertail
Date: Sat, 09 Mar 2002 11:59:59 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@unm.edu>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net>>
Precedence: bulk

Jewelery fitting stores have little tiny clamps that are used instead of 
knots on tigertail.
zoej

--On Saturday, March 09, 2002 12:09 PM -0500 Cecily & Ralph Wood 
<cecnralph@comcast.net> wrote:

> Tigertail is a wire string that is covered with nylon or polyester
> fibers.
>
> I put together a glass wind chime I'd made the components for in the
> kiln.  I used Tigertail because that seemed to be the most flexible but
> also the least likely to break.  Too often wind chimes seem to break if
> they have wire, because the metal flexes in the same place, so the metal
> fatique makes a break place.  And the fiber ones seem to just
> disintegrate.
>
> However, Tigertail is a real bitch to use!  Very hard to tie off in good
> tight knots.  I was afraid to cut close to the knot in case I'd have to
> tighten it,  In consequence it has this whiskery hairy look - pretty
> dreadful.
>
> How does one finish the knots using Tigertail?  Can I cut close to the
> knots?  Can I apply heat (like a match) to the cut ends and knots, so
> that i fuses together?
>
> The wind chime sounds lovely, but it looks really really bad.  I
> intended it for myself, but even I have to admit how unsightly it is.
>
> And anyone who has a better idea for stringing the chimes if I ever do
> that again, please set me on the right track! - Cecily
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass




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From owner-glass Sat Mar  9 14:49:23 2002
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Subject: Re: Tigertail
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 2002 16:33:45 -0500
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0026_01C1C788.2E8E4540
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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Beadalon is much easier to work with, more flexible, and won't knot or =
kink like tigertail will. Use crimp beads to finish off instead of =
tying. Elaine
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Cecily & Ralph Wood=20
  To: Bungi Glass=20
  Sent: Saturday, March 09, 2002 12:09 PM
  Subject: Tigertail


  Tigertail is a wire string that is covered with nylon or polyester
  fibers.

  I put together a glass wind chime I'd made the components for in the
  kiln.  I used Tigertail because that seemed to be the most flexible =
but
  also the least likely to break.  Too often wind chimes seem to break =
if
  they have wire, because the metal flexes in the same place, so the =
metal
  fatique makes a break place.  And the fiber ones seem to just
  disintegrate.

  However, Tigertail is a real bitch to use!  Very hard to tie off in =
good
  tight knots.  I was afraid to cut close to the knot in case I'd have =
to
  tighten it,  In consequence it has this whiskery hairy look - pretty
  dreadful.

  How does one finish the knots using Tigertail?  Can I cut close to the
  knots?  Can I apply heat (like a match) to the cut ends and knots, so
  that i fuses together?

  The wind chime sounds lovely, but it looks really really bad.  I
  intended it for myself, but even I have to admit how unsightly it is.

  And anyone who has a better idea for stringing the chimes if I ever do
  that again, please set me on the right track! - Cecily

  ----
  For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
  To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
  Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


------=_NextPart_000_0026_01C1C788.2E8E4540
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2713.1100" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" size=3D2>Beadalon is much easier to =
work with,=20
more flexible, and won't knot or kink like tigertail will. Use crimp =
beads to=20
finish off instead of tying. Elaine</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A title=3Dcecnralph@comcast.net =
href=3D"mailto:cecnralph@comcast.net">Cecily=20
  &amp; Ralph Wood</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=3Dglass@bungi.com=20
  href=3D"mailto:glass@bungi.com">Bungi Glass</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Saturday, March 09, 2002 =
12:09=20
  PM</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Tigertail</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV>Tigertail is a wire string that is covered with nylon =
or=20
  polyester<BR>fibers.<BR><BR>I put together a glass wind chime I'd made =
the=20
  components for in the<BR>kiln.&nbsp; I used Tigertail because that =
seemed to=20
  be the most flexible but<BR>also the least likely to break.&nbsp; Too =
often=20
  wind chimes seem to break if<BR>they have wire, because the metal =
flexes in=20
  the same place, so the metal<BR>fatique makes a break place.&nbsp; And =
the=20
  fiber ones seem to just<BR>disintegrate.<BR><BR>However, Tigertail is =
a real=20
  bitch to use!&nbsp; Very hard to tie off in good<BR>tight knots.&nbsp; =
I was=20
  afraid to cut close to the knot in case I'd have to<BR>tighten =
it,&nbsp; In=20
  consequence it has this whiskery hairy look - =
pretty<BR>dreadful.<BR><BR>How=20
  does one finish the knots using Tigertail?&nbsp; Can I cut close to=20
  the<BR>knots?&nbsp; Can I apply heat (like a match) to the cut ends =
and knots,=20
  so<BR>that i fuses together?<BR><BR>The wind chime sounds lovely, but =
it looks=20
  really really bad.&nbsp; I<BR>intended it for myself, but even I have =
to admit=20
  how unsightly it is.<BR><BR>And anyone who has a better idea for =
stringing the=20
  chimes if I ever do<BR>that again, please set me on the right track! - =

  Cecily<BR><BR>----<BR>For subscription changes, please mail to: <A=20
  =
href=3D"mailto:glass-request@bungi.com">glass-request@bungi.com</A><BR>To=
 send=20
  to the list,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; please mail to: <A=20
  href=3D"mailto:glass@bungi.com">glass@bungi.com</A><BR>Archives =
available at <A=20
  =
href=3D"http://www.bungi.com/glass">http://www.bungi.com/glass</A><BR></B=
LOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0026_01C1C788.2E8E4540--
----
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To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Sat Mar  9 20:34:21 2002
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m16judH-0000Vka@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Sat, 9 Mar 2002 20:08:27 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: yahoo.com!beadnik
From: Joan <beadnik@yahoo.com>
To: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@comcast.net>, Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Tigertail
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 2002 19:53:37 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net>>
Precedence: bulk

Tigertail is not meant to be knotted.... there are
small crimp beads that can be crimped with either
ordinary small pliers, or special crimping pliers,
which round the little crimps out and make them look
more like beads than hardware.

A newer, and, IMO superior product is now on the
market... it is called Softflex.  It is stronge than
tigertail, has less tendency to kink, and comes in a
variety of sizes and colors.  It is also finished off
with crimp beads, although the smaller sizes can be
knotted.  It's available from most jewelry supply
places.

Joan

--- Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@comcast.net> wrote:
> Tigertail is a wire string that is covered with
> nylon or polyester
> fibers.
> 
> I put together a glass wind chime I'd made the
> components for in the
> kiln.  I used Tigertail because that seemed to be
> the most flexible but
> also the least likely to break.  Too often wind
> chimes seem to break if
> they have wire, because the metal flexes in the same
> place, so the metal
> fatique makes a break place.  And the fiber ones
> seem to just
> disintegrate.
> 
> However, Tigertail is a real bitch to use!  Very
> hard to tie off in good
> tight knots.  I was afraid to cut close to the knot
> in case I'd have to
> tighten it,  In consequence it has this whiskery
> hairy look - pretty
> dreadful.
> 
> How does one finish the knots using Tigertail?  Can
> I cut close to the
> knots?  Can I apply heat (like a match) to the cut
> ends and knots, so
> that i fuses together?
> 
> The wind chime sounds lovely, but it looks really
> really bad.  I
> intended it for myself, but even I have to admit how
> unsightly it is.
> 
> And anyone who has a better idea for stringing the
> chimes if I ever do
> that again, please set me on the right track! -
> Cecily
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to:
> glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to:
> glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
 

__________________________________________________
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Try FREE Yahoo! Mail - the world's greatest free email!
http://mail.yahoo.com/
----
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To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Sat Mar  9 22:40:17 2002
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m16jwd0-0000Voa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Sat, 9 Mar 2002 22:16:18 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: comcast.net!cecnralph
From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@comcast.net>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type=54455854;
Subject: Re: Tigertail
Date: Sat, 09 Mar 2002 23:15:48 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net>
References: <<20020310035337.78690.qmail@web10805.mail.yahoo.com>>
Organization: Grendel Studio
Precedence: bulk

What is Softflex made of?  Better behaved, hunh? - Cec

Joan wrote:

> Tigertail is not meant to be knotted.... there are
> small crimp beads that can be crimped with either
> ordinary small pliers, or special crimping pliers,
> which round the little crimps out and make them look
> more like beads than hardware.
>
> A newer, and, IMO superior product is now on the
> market... it is called Softflex.  It is stronge than
> tigertail, has less tendency to kink, and comes in a
> variety of sizes and colors.  It is also finished off
> with crimp beads, although the smaller sizes can be
> knotted.  It's available from most jewelry supply
> places.
>
> Joan
>
> --- Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@comcast.net> wrote:
> > Tigertail is a wire string that is covered with
> > nylon or polyester
> > fibers.
> >
> > I put together a glass wind chime I'd made the
> > components for in the
> > kiln.  I used Tigertail because that seemed to be
> > the most flexible but
> > also the least likely to break.  Too often wind
> > chimes seem to break if
> > they have wire, because the metal flexes in the same
> > place, so the metal
> > fatique makes a break place.  And the fiber ones
> > seem to just
> > disintegrate.
> >
> > However, Tigertail is a real bitch to use!  Very
> > hard to tie off in good
> > tight knots.  I was afraid to cut close to the knot
> > in case I'd have to
> > tighten it,  In consequence it has this whiskery
> > hairy look - pretty
> > dreadful.
> >
> > How does one finish the knots using Tigertail?  Can
> > I cut close to the
> > knots?  Can I apply heat (like a match) to the cut
> > ends and knots, so
> > that i fuses together?
> >
> > The wind chime sounds lovely, but it looks really
> > really bad.  I
> > intended it for myself, but even I have to admit how
> > unsightly it is.
> >
> > And anyone who has a better idea for stringing the
> > chimes if I ever do
> > that again, please set me on the right track! -
> > Cecily
> >
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to:
> > glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list,      please mail to:
> > glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Try FREE Yahoo! Mail - the world's greatest free email!
> http://mail.yahoo.com/

----
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To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Sat Mar  9 23:19:02 2002
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
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	id <m16jx0I-0000Vra@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Sat, 9 Mar 2002 22:40:22 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: comcast.net!cecnralph
From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@comcast.net>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type=54455854;
Subject: Re: tigertail
Date: Sat, 09 Mar 2002 23:10:57 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net>
References: <<7d.238b0dfb.29bbbbbf@aol.com>>
Organization: Grendel Studio
Precedence: bulk

Thanks everyone.  So I guess to salvage the wind chime, I'll use super glue and
snip.  And next time I'll get some crimping thingies.  I know that fishing line
really doesn't work, but I never thought of weed-eater cord.  Never thought of
crimping either, but that's probably because I don't do much jewelry. - Cecily

FuchsiaFan@aol.com wrote:

> Hi,
>
> I, too make wind chimes occasionally. I use weed-eater cord. I don't tie them
> together, but crimp a fishing "leader sleeve" around each end to hold them
> tight. A leader sleeve is just a little metal tube.
>
> You'll have to go to a really good sporting goods store to get leader sleeves
> big enough to accommodate the diameter of the weed eater cord. Or your
> sporting goods store might special order them for you.
>
> If you're really interested, send me your address and I'll mail you a couple
> so that you can see what they look like.
>
> Mike in Spokane

----
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From owner-glass Sun Mar 10 03:48:19 2002
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Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m16k1Br-0000Vua@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Sun, 10 Mar 2002 03:08:35 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: comcast.net!cecnralph
From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@comcast.net>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type=54455854;
Subject: Re: Tigertail
Date: Sat, 09 Mar 2002 23:14:20 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@hotmail.com>>
Organization: Grendel Studio
Precedence: bulk

Ah HA! this was a blank message for me and it is in multipart mime -
which is consistant with other blank messages (it used html AND it used
text).  Funny how Bungi seems to send on the html rather than the text.

Anyway - what is beadalon made of?  Does it come in colors? - Cec

Dancer wrote:

----
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From owner-glass Sun Mar 10 09:51:12 2002
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Received: by daver.bungi.com
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	for rglass-42; Sun, 10 Mar 2002 08:54:44 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: softhouse.com!giapet
From: "Karen K" <giapet@softhouse.com>
To: "Cecily & Ralph Wood" <cecnralph@comcast.net>,
Subject: MIME format
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 11:52:01 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@softhouse.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net>>
Precedence: bulk

Sending mail in *mime* format has always caused problems for this list.
Even when the message comes thru okay it has all the garble in it.
Those of you who remember "Bob the Dinosaur" will remember his constant
crusade to inform people how to change their mail sending settings to
correct this.  Think it goes something like this............

Go to.....
Tools/Options/Send  then checking *plain text* under *Mail sending
format*.
*Plain Text Settings* should also be set to *uuencode*.

Karen
giapet@softhouse.com




> Ah HA! this was a blank message for me and it is in multipart mime -
> which is consistant with other blank messages (it used html AND it
used
> text).  Funny how Bungi seems to send on the html rather than the
text.
>
> Anyway - what is beadalon made of?  Does it come in colors? - Cec
>
> Dancer wrote:
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>


----
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From owner-glass Sun Mar 10 10:03:33 2002
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Received: by daver.bungi.com
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	for rglass-42; Sun, 10 Mar 2002 08:40:40 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: hotmail.com!dancer1476
From: "Dancer" <dancer1476@hotmail.com>
To: "Bungi Glass" <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: Tigertail
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 10:40:50 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@hotmail.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net>>
Precedence: bulk

If you go to the Beadalon web page, then click on Bead Stringing Wire in the
left frame, you can see what it looks like and read a description. I usually
get the 19 strand and secure with crimp beads, although you can tie knots
with it, so they say. I've never tried tying knots. I also use Spider Wire
for some things, but for wind chimes, I use Beadalon wire exclusively. It's
much, much nicer than tigertail of any brand, including Beadalon Tigertail.
If you would like a list of where you can buy it, let me know. Elaine
http://www.beadalon.com/

----- Original Message -----
From: "Cecily & Ralph Wood" <cecnralph@comcast.net>
To: "Bungi Glass" <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 09, 2002 11:14 PM
Subject: Re: Tigertail


> Ah HA! this was a blank message for me and it is in multipart mime -
> which is consistant with other blank messages (it used html AND it used
> text).  Funny how Bungi seems to send on the html rather than the text.
>
> Anyway - what is beadalon made of?  Does it come in colors? - Cec
>
> Dancer wrote:
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>

----
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To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Sun Mar 10 12:17:41 2002
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Received: by daver.bungi.com
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	for rglass-42; Sun, 10 Mar 2002 12:08:35 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: yahoo.com!beadnik
From: Joan <beadnik@yahoo.com>
To: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@comcast.net>, Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Tigertail
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 11:46:31 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net>>
Precedence: bulk

Softlex is also a multi-strand metal (not sure what
metal) cable coated with nylon (?).  Not totally sure
how it is made, just that it is stronger and, for
jewelry applications, more 'drapable' than tigertail. 
It is, however, also more expensive!  

Joan

--- Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@comcast.net> wrote:
> What is Softflex made of?  Better behaved, hunh? -
> Cec
> 
> Joan wrote:
> 
> > Tigertail is not meant to be knotted.... there are
> > small crimp beads that can be crimped with either
> > ordinary small pliers, or special crimping pliers,
> > which round the little crimps out and make them
> look
> > more like beads than hardware.
> >
> > A newer, and, IMO superior product is now on the
> > market... it is called Softflex.  It is stronge
> than
> > tigertail, has less tendency to kink, and comes in
> a
> > variety of sizes and colors.  It is also finished
> off
> > with crimp beads, although the smaller sizes can
> be
> > knotted.  It's available from most jewelry supply
> > places.
> >
> > Joan
> >
> > --- Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@comcast.net>
> wrote:
> > > Tigertail is a wire string that is covered with
> > > nylon or polyester
> > > fibers.
> > >
> > > I put together a glass wind chime I'd made the
> > > components for in the
> > > kiln.  I used Tigertail because that seemed to
> be
> > > the most flexible but
> > > also the least likely to break.  Too often wind
> > > chimes seem to break if
> > > they have wire, because the metal flexes in the
> same
> > > place, so the metal
> > > fatique makes a break place.  And the fiber ones
> > > seem to just
> > > disintegrate.
> > >
> > > However, Tigertail is a real bitch to use!  Very
> > > hard to tie off in good
> > > tight knots.  I was afraid to cut close to the
> knot
> > > in case I'd have to
> > > tighten it,  In consequence it has this whiskery
> > > hairy look - pretty
> > > dreadful.
> > >
> > > How does one finish the knots using Tigertail? 
> Can
> > > I cut close to the
> > > knots?  Can I apply heat (like a match) to the
> cut
> > > ends and knots, so
> > > that i fuses together?
> > >
> > > The wind chime sounds lovely, but it looks
> really
> > > really bad.  I
> > > intended it for myself, but even I have to admit
> how
> > > unsightly it is.
> > >
> > > And anyone who has a better idea for stringing
> the
> > > chimes if I ever do
> > > that again, please set me on the right track! -
> > > Cecily
> > >
> > > ----
> > > For subscription changes, please mail to:
> > > glass-request@bungi.com
> > > To send to the list,      please mail to:
> > > glass@bungi.com
> > > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> >
> >
> > __________________________________________________
> > Do You Yahoo!?
> > Try FREE Yahoo! Mail - the world's greatest free
> email!
> > http://mail.yahoo.com/
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to:
> glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to:
> glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
 

__________________________________________________
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Try FREE Yahoo! Mail - the world's greatest free email!
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----
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From owner-glass Sun Mar 10 20:39:22 2002
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	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: cox.net!gunnx4
From: "Suzanne Gunn" <gunnx4@cox.net>
To: "Joan" <beadnik@yahoo.com>,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Tigertail
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 21:01:48 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@cox.net>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>>
Organization: glsasdancer
Precedence: bulk

Joan...

It's not just your opinion that softflex is a better product.
I whole heartedly agree.  I love it.  It's so much more flexible, once I
used it, I'll never use tiger tail again.

Suzanne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Joan" <beadnik@yahoo.com>
To: "Cecily & Ralph Wood" <cecnralph@comcast.net>; "Bungi Glass"
<glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 09, 2002 9:53 PM
Subject: Re: Tigertail


> Tigertail is not meant to be knotted.... there are
> small crimp beads that can be crimped with either
> ordinary small pliers, or special crimping pliers,
> which round the little crimps out and make them look
> more like beads than hardware.
>
> A newer, and, IMO superior product is now on the
> market... it is called Softflex.  It is stronge than
> tigertail, has less tendency to kink, and comes in a
> variety of sizes and colors.  It is also finished off
> with crimp beads, although the smaller sizes can be
> knotted.  It's available from most jewelry supply
> places.
>
> Joan

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From owner-glass Mon Mar 11 12:30:20 2002
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X-Path: hotmail.com!donaldleedy
From: "donald leedy" <donaldleedy@hotmail.com>
To: cecnralph@comcast.net
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
Subject: Re: Tigertail
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 12:10:54 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@hotmail.com>
Precedence: bulk

jsut a thought...you may be able to use jewelry crimp fittings to finish off 
your tigertail...I don't know what the diameter is, but you might find that 
crimps on a doubled back loop will work just fine.


>From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@comcast.net>
>To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
>Subject: Tigertail
>Date: Sat, 09 Mar 2002 12:09:37 -0500
>
>Tigertail is a wire string that is covered with nylon or polyester
>fibers.
>
>I put together a glass wind chime I'd made the components for in the
>kiln.  I used Tigertail because that seemed to be the most flexible but
>also the least likely to break.  Too often wind chimes seem to break if
>they have wire, because the metal flexes in the same place, so the metal
>fatique makes a break place.  And the fiber ones seem to just
>disintegrate.
>
>However, Tigertail is a real bitch to use!  Very hard to tie off in good
>tight knots.  I was afraid to cut close to the knot in case I'd have to
>tighten it,  In consequence it has this whiskery hairy look - pretty
>dreadful.
>
>How does one finish the knots using Tigertail?  Can I cut close to the
>knots?  Can I apply heat (like a match) to the cut ends and knots, so
>that i fuses together?
>
>The wind chime sounds lovely, but it looks really really bad.  I
>intended it for myself, but even I have to admit how unsightly it is.
>
>And anyone who has a better idea for stringing the chimes if I ever do
>that again, please set me on the right track! - Cecily
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


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From owner-glass Tue Mar 12 08:36:40 2002
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	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: teleport.com!weaver51
From: "Microsoft Corporation Security Center" <rdquest12@microsoft.com>
To: "Microsoft Customer" <'customer@yourdomain.com'>
Content-Type: multipart/mixed;
Subject: Internet Security Update
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 07:49:36 -0800
Message-ID: <E16koWt-00042x-00@atlantic.mail.pas.earthlink.net>
Precedence: bulk

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
You should read this with client which 
supported MIME standard.

--NextPart_000235
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable


Microsoft Customer,

     this is the latest version of security update, the 
"8 Mar 2002 Cumulative Patch" update which eliminates all 
known security vulnerabilities affecting Internet Explorer and 
MS Outlook/Express as well as six new vulnerabilities, and is 
discussed in Microsoft Security Bulletin MS02-005. Install now to 
protect your computer from these vulnerabilities, the most serious of which 
could allow an attacker to run code on your computer.


Description of several well-know vulnerabilities:

- "Incorrect MIME Header Can Cause IE to Execute E-mail Attachment" vulnerability.
If a malicious user sends an affected HTML e-mail or hosts an affected 
e-mail on a Web site, and a user opens the e-mail or visits the Web site, 
Internet Explorer automatically runs the executable on the user's computer. 

- A vulnerability that could allow an unauthorized user to learn the location
of cached content on your computer. This could enable the unauthorized
user to launch compiled HTML Help (.chm) files that contain shortcuts to
executables, thereby enabling the unauthorized user to run the executables
on your computer. 

- A new variant of the "Frame Domain Verification" vulnerability could enable a 
malicious Web site operator to open two browser windows, one in the Web site's 
domain and the other on your local file system, and to pass information from 
your computer to the Web site.

- CLSID extension vulnerability. Attachments which end with a CLSID file extension 
do not show the actual full extension of the file when saved and viewed with 
Windows Explorer. This allows dangerous file types to look as though they are simple, 
harmless files - such as JPG or WAV files - that do not need to be blocked.


System requirements:
Versions of Windows no earlier than Windows 95. 

This update applies to:
Versions of Internet Explorer no earlier than 4.01
Versions of MS Outlook no earlier than 8.00
Versions of MS Outlook Express no earlier than 4.01

How to install
Run attached file q216309.exe

How to use
You don't need to do anything after installing this item. 


For more information about these issues, read Microsoft Security Bulletin MS02-005, or visit link below.
http://www.microsoft.com/windows/ie/downloads/critical/default.asp
If you have some questions about this article contact us at rdquest12@microsoft.com

Thank you for using Microsoft products.

With friendly greetings,
MS Internet Security Center.
----------------------------------------
----------------------------------------
Microsoft is registered trademark of Microsoft Corporation.
Windows and Outlook are trademarks of Microsoft Corporation.

--NextPart_000235
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	name="q216309.exe"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64
Content-Disposition: attachment;
	filename="q216309.exe"



--NextPart_000235--
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From owner-glass Tue Mar 12 09:39:06 2002
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	for rglass-42; Tue, 12 Mar 2002 09:11:12 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: Corpit.com!dterrill
From: Dan Terrill <dterrill@Corpit.com>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Look out -- Virus warning  (WAS FW: Internet Security Update)
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 11:42:35 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@Corpit.com>
Precedence: bulk

The attached file (if you got it) is a virus.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Microsoft Corporation Security Center
> [mailto:rdquest12@microsoft.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, March 12, 2002 10:50 AM
> To: Microsoft Customer
> Subject: Internet Security Update
> 
> 
> This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
> You should read this with client which 
> supported MIME standard.
> 
> --NextPart_000235
> Content-Type: text/plain;
> 	charset="us-ascii"
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
> 
> 
> Microsoft Customer,
> 
>      this is the latest version of security update, the 
> "8 Mar 2002 Cumulative Patch" update which eliminates all 
> known security vulnerabilities affecting Internet Explorer and 
> MS Outlook/Express as well as six new vulnerabilities, and is 
> discussed in Microsoft Security Bulletin MS02-005. Install now to 
> protect your computer from these vulnerabilities, the most 
> serious of which 
> could allow an attacker to run code on your computer.
> 
> 
> Description of several well-know vulnerabilities:
> 
> - "Incorrect MIME Header Can Cause IE to Execute E-mail 
> Attachment" vulnerability.
> If a malicious user sends an affected HTML e-mail or hosts an 
> affected 
> e-mail on a Web site, and a user opens the e-mail or visits 
> the Web site, 
> Internet Explorer automatically runs the executable on the 
> user's computer. 
> 
> - A vulnerability that could allow an unauthorized user to 
> learn the location
> of cached content on your computer. This could enable the unauthorized
> user to launch compiled HTML Help (.chm) files that contain 
> shortcuts to
> executables, thereby enabling the unauthorized user to run 
> the executables
> on your computer. 
> 
> - A new variant of the "Frame Domain Verification" 
> vulnerability could enable a 
> malicious Web site operator to open two browser windows, one 
> in the Web site's 
> domain and the other on your local file system, and to pass 
> information from 
> your computer to the Web site.
> 
> - CLSID extension vulnerability. Attachments which end with a 
> CLSID file extension 
> do not show the actual full extension of the file when saved 
> and viewed with 
> Windows Explorer. This allows dangerous file types to look as 
> though they are simple, 
> harmless files - such as JPG or WAV files - that do not need 
> to be blocked.
> 
> 
> System requirements:
> Versions of Windows no earlier than Windows 95. 
> 
> This update applies to:
> Versions of Internet Explorer no earlier than 4.01
> Versions of MS Outlook no earlier than 8.00
> Versions of MS Outlook Express no earlier than 4.01
> 
> How to install
> Run attached file q216309.exe
> 
> How to use
> You don't need to do anything after installing this item. 
> 
> 
> For more information about these issues, read Microsoft 
> Security Bulletin MS02-005, or visit link below.
> http://www.microsoft.com/windows/ie/downloads/critical/default.asp
> If you have some questions about this article contact us at 
> rdquest12@microsoft.com
> 
> Thank you for using Microsoft products.
> 
> With friendly greetings,
> MS Internet Security Center.
> ----------------------------------------
> ----------------------------------------
> Microsoft is registered trademark of Microsoft Corporation.
> Windows and Outlook are trademarks of Microsoft Corporation.
> 
> --NextPart_000235
> Content-Type: application/x-msdownload;
> 	name="q216309.exe"
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64
> Content-Disposition: attachment;
> 	filename="q216309.exe"
> 
> 
> 
> --NextPart_000235--
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> 
----
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From owner-glass Tue Mar 12 10:10:40 2002
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	for rglass-42; Tue, 12 Mar 2002 09:39:47 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: notes.cc.sunysb.edu!gcaso
From: gcaso@notes.cc.sunysb.edu
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Internet Security Update
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 12:11:29 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@notes.cc.sunysb.edu>
Precedence: bulk


I just received this message through bungi.

PLEASE DELETE IT !! It is NOT from Microsoft. The attachment is a virus. We
were warned about it last week.

Cheers,

Giuseppe





This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
You should read this with client which
supported MIME standard.

--NextPart_000235
Content-Type: text/plain;
           charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable


Microsoft Customer,

     this is the latest version of security update, the

known security vulnerabilities affecting Internet Explorer and
MS Outlook/Express as well as six new vulnerabilities, and is
discussed in Microsoft Security Bulletin MS02-005. Install now to
protect your computer from these vulnerabilities, the most serious of which

could allow an attacker to run code on your computer.


Description of several well-know vulnerabilities:

- "Incorrect MIME Header Can Cause IE to Execute E-mail Attachment"
vulnerability.
If a malicious user sends an affected HTML e-mail or hosts an affected
e-mail on a Web site, and a user opens the e-mail or visits the Web site,
Internet Explorer automatically runs the executable on the user's computer.


- A vulnerability that could allow an unauthorized user to learn the
location
of cached content on your computer. This could enable the unauthorized
user to launch compiled HTML Help (.chm) files that contain shortcuts to
executables, thereby enabling the unauthorized user to run the executables
on your computer.

- A new variant of the "Frame Domain Verification" vulnerability could
enable a
malicious Web site operator to open two browser windows, one in the Web
site's
domain and the other on your local file system, and to pass information
from
your computer to the Web site.

- CLSID extension vulnerability. Attachments which end with a CLSID file
extension
do not show the actual full extension of the file when saved and viewed
with
Windows Explorer. This allows dangerous file types to look as though they
are simple,
harmless files - such as JPG or WAV files - that do not need to be blocked.


System requirements:
Versions of Windows no earlier than Windows 95.

This update applies to:
Versions of Internet Explorer no earlier than 4.01
Versions of MS Outlook no earlier than 8.00
Versions of MS Outlook Express no earlier than 4.01

How to install
Run attached file q216309.exe

How to use
You don't need to do anything after installing this item.


For more information about these issues, read Microsoft Security Bulletin
MS02-005, or visit link below.
http://www.microsoft.com/windows/ie/downloads/critical/default.asp
If you have some questions about this article contact us at
rdquest12@microsoft.com

Thank you for using Microsoft products.

With friendly greetings,
MS Internet Security Center.
----------------------------------------
----------------------------------------
Microsoft is registered trademark of Microsoft Corporation.
Windows and Outlook are trademarks of Microsoft Corporation.

--NextPart_000235
Content-Type: application/x-msdownload;
           name="q216309.exe"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64
Content-Disposition: attachment;
           filename="q216309.exe"



--NextPart_000235--
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From owner-glass Tue Mar 12 14:54:15 2002
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	for rglass-42; Tue, 12 Mar 2002 14:25:21 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: comcast.net!lbianca104
From: lbianca104@comcast.net
To: lbianca104@comcast.net
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: Gatewayed mail message
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 17:22:05 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net>
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

--Boundary_(ID_2MIxfoxIWykEuDmU4ABDSA)
Content-type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT

Test

--Boundary_(ID_2MIxfoxIWykEuDmU4ABDSA)
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
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<META content="MSHTML 6.00.2713.1100" name=GENERATOR>
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</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=#ffffff>
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From owner-glass Tue Mar 12 20:09:07 2002
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      If your email program does not support HTML email or if you are on =
AOL, please go to http://www.guardtower.com to view this page.
      =20
    =20

      The Recap Reporter
      =
_________________________________________________________________________=
__________________________
      Volume 2                                                           =
              Finding Value in Recapitalized Companies                   =
                                          Issue 2
      =
_________________________________________________________________________=
__________________________________________


    =20

            The Business

            iExalt, Inc. through its affiliated companies has positioned =
itself to be one of the leaders in the $3 billion Christian media and =
publishing market. Christian media and publishing is one of the fastest =
growing, most loyal, responsive and coveted market spaces today.

            iExalt manages one of the most popular Christian sites =
offering access to on-line web based sermon resources and provides an =
interactive outlet to both traditional and modern sources of information =
for today's Christian lifestyle.=20

            iExalt electronically publishes cutting-edge, =
information-packed, Christian books, bibles and reference materials =
including a monthly Christian events magazine, a Christian business =
directory, multiple regional Christian newspapers, and numerous online =
newsletters. In addition, iExalt produces "Life Perspectives" a radio =
program which broadcasts nationally 5 nights per week and is also =
affiliated with a very popular youth-oriented Christian radio program. =
iExalt also operates a comprehensive contemporary Christian music news =
website, maintains one of the largest speaker's bureaus dedicated to =
Christian Speakers and a booking agency for Christian Artists. iExalt =
generates its revenues from a number of media related sources including =
advertising, product and service fees, event registration fees, =
subscriptions, sponsorships and ticket sales for Christian events.

            The Opportunity

            Focus on Core Business. Dramatic market events in the =
dot-com industry over the past 18 months adversely affected companies =
perceived to be primarily "dot-com" or Internet companies which included =
iExalt, which is actually a Christian media business with only 3% of =
revenues derived from the Internet. As a consequence, iExalt re-examined =
its business plan and market potential and decided to focus on those =
aspects of the Christian media, entertainment and retail markets already =
in place and to divest itself of non-core products and services.

            On November 30, 2001 iExalt sold to UMC Ten Broeck, Inc. the =
assets related to PremierCare, LLC (owned by iExalt) for the sum of =
$1,000,000 cash at closing plus a deferred payment equal to one third of =
any EBITDA generated by the business in excess of $500,000 annually for =
a period of two years following closing.
            =20
          =20
     Snap Shot
                            =20
                                   Symbol IEXA (OTCBB)=20
                                   Name iExalt=20
                                   Sales $ 9,340,000=20
                                   Outstanding   1,410,000=20
                                   Float     609,000=20
                                   52 Week High $ 14.05=20
                                   Close (3/08/02) $   1.15=20
                      =20
                =20
                  Media Company Valuation

                  iExalt is a Christian Media Company which has suffered =
over the last 18 months the stigma of being grouped as an Internet =
company. With only 3% of its revenues generated by the Internet, it is =
easy to see that iExalt is not an Internet company; instead iExalt is a =
media company which has limited Internet assets.

                  The Company trades at a market cap (share price x =
shares outstanding) of less than $2,000,000. Other media companies are =
valued in the market at 4 to 5 x revenue. On this basis iExalt's share =
price should be in excess of $20 a share. Obviously the Company's =
earnings would have to be in line with the share price, but it does show =
the potential of the stock.

                  For More Information

                        www.iExalt.com www.Regeneration.org=20
                        www.WordSearchBible.com  www.ListenFirst.com=20
                        www.ChristianSpeakers.com  www.iSermons.com=20
                        www.ChristianArtists.com www.theParentLink.com=20
                        www.ChristianTimes.com =
www.ChristianHappenings.com=20

                        iExalt Publishing Assets

                        Christian Times is a part of the Christian =
Newspaper Association, and the largest regional Christian newspaper in =
America. Christian Times is published in sixteen regional editions in =
California, Washington, Colorado, Oklahoma and Texas with a monthly =
circulation of approximately 350,000 copies.

                        Christian Happenings publishes a bi-monthly =
periodical promoting Christian events, which is circulated in 22 regions =
east of the Mississippi River and in Texas and Oklahoma to over 360,000 =
readers, representing an increase of five regions and 110,000 readers =
since its acquisition.
                        =20
                      =20
                =20
          =20
    =20
      This newsletter is published by The Recap Reporter. The Recap =
Reporter is an independent subscription based newsletter with paid =
subscribers. This report relies in part on forward looking statements. =
Past performance does not guarantee future results. This report is based =
on Recap Reporters independent analysis, and may or may not be the =
opinion of iExalt, Inc. (IEXA) This report relies on information =
supplied by sources believed to be reliable. The information contained =
in this report is for information purposes only and should not be =
construed as an offer or solicitation to buy or sell any security. =
Investors should consult with an investment professional before =
investing any monies. Copyright =A9 2002 by The Recap Reporter. All =
rights reserved.=20

      =A9 2002 The Recap Reporter. All Rights Reserved.  If you wish to =
unsubscribe from The Recap Reporter Click Here.
    =20
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      =
2&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&=
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p;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp=
;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&=
nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&n=
bsp;=20
      Issue=20
      =
2<BR>____________________________________________________________________=
_______________________________________________<BR></B></FONT><U><B><FONT=
=20
      face=3DArial size=3D1><BR></FONT></B></SPAN></U></P></TD></TR>
  <TR>
    <TD width=3D378 height=3D767>
      <TABLE style=3D"BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse; TEXT-ALIGN: justify"=20
      borderColor=3D#111111 cellSpacing=3D5 cellPadding=3D5 =
width=3D"100%" border=3D0>
        <TBODY>
        <TR>
          <TD align=3Djustify width=3D"100%">
            <P align=3Dcenter><FONT face=3DArial><B><BR>The =
Business</B></FONT></P>
            <P><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>iExalt, Inc. through its =
affiliated=20
            companies has positioned itself to be one of the leaders in =
the $3=20
            billion <B>Christian media</B> and <B>publishing market</B>. =

            Christian media and publishing is one of the fastest =
growing, most=20
            loyal, responsive and coveted market spaces =
today.<BR><BR>iExalt=20
            manages one of the most popular Christian sites offering =
access to=20
            on-line web based sermon resources and provides an =
interactive=20
            outlet to both traditional and modern sources of information =
for=20
            today=92s Christian lifestyle. <BR><BR>iExalt electronically =
publishes=20
            cutting-edge, information-packed, <B>Christian books, =
bibles</B> and=20
            reference materials including a monthly <B>Christian events=20
            magazine</B>, <B>a Christian business directory</B>, =
multiple=20
            regional <B>Christian newspapers</B>, and numerous online=20
            <B>newsletters</B>. In addition, iExalt produces <B>=93Life=20
            Perspectives=94</B> a <B>radio program</B> which broadcasts =
nationally=20
            5 nights per week and is also affiliated with a very popular =

            youth-oriented Christian radio program. iExalt also operates =
a=20
            comprehensive contemporary <B>Christian music news =
website</B>,=20
            maintains one of the largest speaker=92s bureaus dedicated =
to=20
            <B>Christian Speakers</B> and a booking <B>agency for =
Christian=20
            Artists</B>. iExalt generates its revenues from a number of =
media=20
            related sources including advertising, product and service =
fees,=20
            event registration fees, subscriptions, sponsorships and =
ticket=20
            sales for Christian events.</FONT></P>
            <P align=3Dcenter><B><FONT face=3DArial>The =
Opportunity</FONT></B></P>
            <P><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Focus on Core Business. =
Dramatic market=20
            events in the dot-com industry over the past 18 months =
adversely=20
            affected companies perceived to be primarily =93dot-com=94 =
or Internet=20
            companies which included iExalt, which is actually a<B> =
Christian=20
            media business</B> with only <B>3% of revenues derived from =
the=20
            Internet</B>. As a consequence, iExalt re-examined its =
business plan=20
            and market potential and decided to focus on those aspects =
of the=20
            Christian media, entertainment and retail markets already in =
place=20
            and to divest itself of non-core products and =
services.<BR><BR>On=20
            November 30, 2001 iExalt sold to UMC Ten Broeck, Inc. the =
assets=20
            related to PremierCare, LLC (owned by iExalt) for the sum of =

            $1,000,000 cash at closing plus a deferred payment equal to =
one=20
            third of any EBITDA generated by the business in excess of =
$500,000=20
            annually for a period of two years following=20
            closing.<BR>&nbsp;</FONT></P></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD>
    <TD width=3D379 height=3D767>
      <TABLE cellSpacing=3D1 cellPadding=3D0 width=3D"100%" border=3D0>
        <TBODY>
        <TR>
          <TD width=3D"100%">
            <TABLE style=3D"BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" =
borderColor=3D#000000=20
            cellSpacing=3D0 cellPadding=3D0 width=3D"100%" border=3D1>
              <TBODY>
              <TR>
                <TD width=3D"100%">
                  <TABLE cellSpacing=3D1 width=3D"100%" border=3D1>
                    <TBODY>
                    <TR>
                      <TD width=3D"100%">
                        <TABLE cellSpacing=3D1 width=3D"100%" =
border=3D0>
                          <TBODY>
                          <TR>
                            <TD width=3D"100%" colSpan=3D2>
                              <P align=3Dcenter><FONT =
face=3DArial><I><B>Snap=20
                              Shot</B></I></FONT></P></TD></TR>
                          <TR>
                            <TD width=3D"50%"><FONT face=3DArial=20
                              size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
Symbol</FONT></TD>
                            <TD width=3D"50%"><FONT face=3DArial =
size=3D2><B>IEXA=20
                              </B>(OTCBB)</FONT></TD></TR>
                          <TR>
                            <TD width=3D"50%"><FONT face=3DArial=20
                              size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
Name</FONT></TD>
                            <TD width=3D"50%"><B><FONT face=3DArial=20
                              size=3D2>iExalt</FONT></B></TD></TR>
                          <TR>
                            <TD width=3D"50%"><FONT face=3DArial=20
                              size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
Sales</FONT></TD>
                            <TD width=3D"45%"><B><FONT face=3DArial =
size=3D2>$=20
                              9,340,000</FONT></B></TD></TR>
                          <TR>
                            <TD width=3D"50%"><FONT face=3DArial=20
                              size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
                            Outstanding</FONT></TD>
                            <TD width=3D"45%"><B><FONT face=3DArial =
size=3D2>&nbsp;=20
                              1,410,000</FONT></B></TD></TR>
                          <TR>
                            <TD width=3D"50%"><FONT face=3DArial=20
                              size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
Float</FONT></TD>
                            <TD width=3D"45%"><B><FONT face=3DArial=20
                              size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
609</FONT></B><FONT=20
                              face=3DArial =
size=3D2><B>,000</B></FONT></TD></TR>
                          <TR>
                            <TD width=3D"50%"><FONT face=3DArial=20
                              size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 52 Week=20
                            High</FONT></TD>
                            <TD width=3D"50%"><B><FONT face=3DArial =
size=3D2>$=20
                              14.05</FONT></B></TD></TR>
                          <TR>
                            <TD width=3D"50%"><FONT face=3DArial=20
                              size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Close=20
                              (3/08/02)</FONT></TD>
                            <TD width=3D"50%"><B><FONT face=3DArial=20
                              size=3D2>$&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
                        =
1.15</FONT></B></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD><=
/TR></TBODY></TABLE>
            <TABLE style=3D"BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse; TEXT-ALIGN: =
justify"=20
            borderColor=3D#111111 cellSpacing=3D5 cellPadding=3D5 =
width=3D"100%"=20
            border=3D0>
              <TBODY>
              <TR>
                <TD align=3Djustify width=3D"100%">
                  <P align=3Dcenter><B><FONT face=3DArial>Media Company=20
                  Valuation</FONT></B></P>
                  <P><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>iExalt is a =
<B>Christian Media=20
                  Company</B> which has suffered over the last 18 months =
the=20
                  stigma of being grouped as an Internet company. With =
only 3%=20
                  of its revenues generated by the Internet, it is easy =
to see=20
                  that iExalt is not an Internet company; instead iExalt =
is a=20
                  media company which has limited Internet =
assets.<BR><BR>The=20
                  Company trades at a market cap (share price x shares=20
                  outstanding) of less than $2,000,000. Other media =
companies=20
                  are valued in the market at <B>4 to 5 x revenue</B>. =
On this=20
                  basis iExalt's share price should be in excess of $20 =
a share.=20
                  Obviously the Company=92s earnings would have to be in =
line with=20
                  the share price, but it does show the potential of the =

                  stock.</FONT></P>
                  <P align=3Dcenter><B><FONT face=3DArial>For More=20
                  Information</FONT></B></P>
                  <TABLE height=3D317 cellSpacing=3D1 width=3D"103%" =
border=3D0>
                    <TBODY>
                    <TR>
                      <TD width=3D"48%" height=3D12><B><FONT =
face=3DVerdana=20
                        size=3D1><A=20
                        =
href=3D"http://www.iexalt.com/">www.iExalt.com</A></FONT></B></TD>
                      <TD width=3D"55%" height=3D12><B><FONT =
face=3DVerdana=20
                        size=3D1><A=20
                        =
href=3D"http://www.regeneration.org/">www.Regeneration.org</A></FONT></B>=
</TD></TR>
                    <TR>
                      <TD width=3D"48%" height=3D12><B><FONT =
face=3DVerdana=20
                        size=3D1><A=20
                        =
href=3D"http://www.wordsearchbible.com/">www.WordSearchBible.com</A>=20
                        </FONT></B></TD>
                      <TD width=3D"55%" height=3D12><B><FONT =
face=3DVerdana=20
                        size=3D1><A=20
                        =
href=3D"http://www.listenfirst.com/">www.ListenFirst.com</A></FONT></B></=
TD></TR>
                    <TR>
                      <TD width=3D"48%" height=3D12><B><FONT =
face=3DVerdana=20
                        size=3D1><A=20
                        =
href=3D"http://www.christianspeakers.com/">www.ChristianSpeakers.com</A> =

                        </FONT></B></TD>
                      <TD width=3D"55%" height=3D12><B><FONT =
face=3DVerdana=20
                        size=3D1><A=20
                        =
href=3D"http://www.isermons.com/">www.iSermons.com</A></FONT></B></TD></T=
R>
                    <TR>
                      <TD width=3D"48%" height=3D12><B><FONT =
face=3DVerdana=20
                        size=3D1><A=20
                        =
href=3D"http://www.christianartists.com/">www.ChristianArtists.com</A></F=
ONT></B></TD>
                      <TD width=3D"55%" height=3D12><B><FONT =
face=3DVerdana=20
                        size=3D1><A=20
                        =
href=3D"http://www.theparentlink.com/">www.theParentLink.com</A></FONT></=
B></TD></TR>
                    <TR>
                      <TD width=3D"48%" height=3D12><B><FONT =
face=3DVerdana=20
                        size=3D1><A=20
                        =
href=3D"http://www.christiantimes.com/">www.ChristianTimes.com</A></FONT>=
</B></TD>
                      <TD width=3D"55%" height=3D12><B><FONT =
face=3DVerdana=20
                        size=3D1><A=20
                        =
href=3D"http://www.christianhappenings.com/">www.ChristianHappenings.com<=
/A></FONT></B></TD></TR>
                    <TR>
                      <TD width=3D"103%" colSpan=3D2 height=3D3>
                        <P align=3Dcenter><B><FONT =
face=3DArial><BR>iExalt=20
                        Publishing Assets</FONT></B></P>
                        <P><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><B>Christian =
Times</B> is a=20
                        part of the Christian Newspaper Association, and =
the=20
                        largest regional Christian newspaper in America. =

                        Christian Times is published in sixteen regional =

                        editions in California, Washington, Colorado, =
Oklahoma=20
                        and Texas with a monthly circulation of =
approximately=20
                        350,000 copies.</FONT></P>
                        <P><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><B>Christian =
Happenings</B>=20
                        publishes a bi-monthly periodical promoting =
Christian=20
                        events, which is circulated in 22 regions east =
of the=20
                        Mississippi River and in Texas and Oklahoma to =
over=20
                        360,000 readers, representing an increase of =
five=20
                        regions and 110,000 readers since its=20
                        =
acquisition.<BR>&nbsp;</FONT></P></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR></TB=
ODY></TABLE></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR>
  <TR>
    <TD width=3D754 colSpan=3D2 height=3D23><I><FONT face=3DArial =
size=3D1>This=20
      newsletter is published by The Recap Reporter. The Recap Reporter =
is an=20
      independent subscription based newsletter with paid subscribers. =
This=20
      report relies in part on forward looking statements. Past =
performance does=20
      not guarantee future results. This report is based on Recap =
Reporters=20
      independent analysis, and may or may not be the opinion of iExalt, =
Inc.=20
      (IEXA) This report relies on information supplied by sources =
believed to=20
      be reliable. The information contained in this report is for =
information=20
      purposes only and should not be construed as an offer or =
solicitation to=20
      buy or sell any security. Investors should consult with an =
investment=20
      professional before investing any monies. Copyright =A9 2002 by =
The Recap=20
      Reporter. All rights=20
reserved.</FONT></I></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></CENTER></DIV>
<DIV align=3Dcenter>
<CENTER>
<TABLE id=3DAutoNumber1 style=3D"BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" =
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cellSpacing=3D0 width=3D760 border=3D0>
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  <TR>
    <TD width=3D"100%">
      <P align=3Dcenter><B><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>=A9 2002 The =
Recap Reporter. All=20
      Rights Reserved.&nbsp; If you wish to unsubscribe from The Recap =
Reporter=20
      <A href=3D"mailto:recap4-off@list.guardtower.com">Click=20
      Here</A>.</FONT></B></P></TD></TR>
  <TR>
    <TD width=3D"100%"><!-- START ADCYCLE DIRECT BANNER CODE --><!-- =
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From owner-glass Sun Mar 17 17:00:05 2002
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X-Path: island.net!seaspray
From: "synergy glass" <seaspray@island.net>
To: "Glass Friends" <glass@bungi.com>, "Ann Baxter" <Awbaxter@aol.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: putty question
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 13:15:14 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@island.net>
Precedence: bulk

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0029_01C1CCEC.9C3435A0
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Hi all.  I am about to putty the back of 8 leaded windows that each =
contain 10 pieces of Spectrum clear chord either 1/2" x 10" or 1" x 4".  =
I remember a few years ago someone suggested a way to minimize clean-up =
by keeping putty from getting into the crevices of heavily textured =
glass such as this.

All I can think of is to carefully shove the putty under the came with a =
putty knife and try to keep the brush away from those parts of the =
panels. =20

Any other ideas?    Ann...did this come up for your article for Common =
Ground?

Carol

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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>Hi all.&nbsp; I am about to putty the back of 8 leaded windows that =
each=20
contain 10 pieces of Spectrum clear chord either 1/2" x 10" or 1" x =
4".&nbsp; I=20
remember a few years ago someone suggested a way to minimize clean-up=20
by&nbsp;keeping putty from getting into the crevices of heavily textured =
glass=20
such as this.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>All I can think of is to carefully shove the putty under the came =
with a=20
putty knife and try to keep the brush away from those parts of the =
panels.&nbsp;=20
</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Any other ideas?&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Ann...did this come up for your =
article=20
for Common Ground?</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Carol</DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-glass Sun Mar 17 17:35:00 2002
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	for rglass-42; Sun, 17 Mar 2002 17:15:57 -0800 (PST)
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X-Path: gjr
From: gjr@bungi.com (Glenna Rand)
To: "synergy glass" <seaspray@island.net>, 
Subject: Re: putty question
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 17:15:18 PST
Message-ID: <m16mlk9-0000CZC@daver.bungi.com>
Precedence: bulk

[In the message entitled "putty question" on Mar 16, 13:15, "synergy glass" writes:]

> Hi all.  I am about to putty the back of 8 leaded windows that each =
> contain 10 pieces of Spectrum clear chord either 1/2" x 10" or 1" x 4".  =
> I remember a few years ago someone suggested a way to minimize clean-up =
> by keeping putty from getting into the crevices of heavily textured =
> glass such as this.
> 
> All I can think of is to carefully shove the putty under the came with a =
> putty knife and try to keep the brush away from those parts of the =
> panels. =20
> 
> Any other ideas?    Ann...did this come up for your article for Common =
 Ground?

Actually I can recall someone recommending sticking on contact paper
to help act as a barrior.


-- 
Glenna Rand
gjr@bungi.com
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From owner-glass Sun Mar 17 22:10:37 2002
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X-Path: comcast.net!cecnralph
From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@comcast.net>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type=54455854;
Subject: Re: lead free deadline
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 00:06:39 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net>
Organization: Grendel Studio
Precedence: bulk

That same article I wrote about is reprinted in the Glass Art magazine
that just arrived.  It looks to be word-for-word, but I didn't check it
closely.  Oddly enough, I didn't see any mention that it was a reprint.

I think that is a publishing etiquette nono, if that guy submitted it to
two publications at the same time.  For one thing, the first periodical
will consider it to be under their copyright, and the second periodical
is then legally at fault, through no fault of their own.

Anyway, has any one used any of the leadfree cames? - Cec

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From owner-glass Mon Mar 18 06:11:30 2002
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X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: bungi:putty question
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 08:37:56 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com>
Precedence: bulk

Message text written by "synergy glass"
>Hi all.  I am about to putty the back of 8 leaded windows that each =3D
contain 10 pieces of Spectrum clear chord either 1/2" x 10" or 1" x 4".  =
=3D
I remember a few years ago someone suggested a way to minimize clean-up =3D=

by keeping putty from getting into the crevices of heavily textured =3D
glass such as this.<

Cover the back with contact paper, leaving a 1/8" gap around the lead. =

This helps reduce putty-creep, but does not eliminate it.  We use sharpen=
ed
wooden chop sticks to dig out any putty and/or whiting which creep in.  Y=
ou
can also rinse off the panels with a water hose to get rid of the excess
whiting.

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
Denton, TX
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From owner-glass Mon Mar 18 20:27:09 2002
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X-Path: yahoo.com!texpenguin
From: Sherry Greer <texpenguin@yahoo.com>
To: GlassList <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: re: putty ?
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 15:05:23 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>
Precedence: bulk

Instead of sharpened chopsticks to clean out the textured glass,
couldn't you use bamboo skewers from the grocery store?  Already
sharpened anyway.  Maybe they break too easy?
Sherry


=====
Sherry Greer
texpenguin@yahoo.com

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Subject: Re: putty ?
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 23:33:17 -0500
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Organization: Grendel Studio
Precedence: bulk

Seems like ordinary round toothpicks, or maybe the orange wood manacure
sticks.  Also, sculpting tools probably will get in there to clean
things out too. - Cec

Sherry Greer wrote:

> Instead of sharpened chopsticks to clean out the textured glass,
> couldn't you use bamboo skewers from the grocery store?  Already
> sharpened anyway.  Maybe they break too easy?
> Sherry
>
> =====
> Sherry Greer
> texpenguin@yahoo.com
>
> __________________________________________________
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> Yahoo! Sports - live college hoops coverage
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From owner-glass Tue Mar 19 07:45:59 2002
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Subject: Re: putty ?
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 10:14:48 -0500
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alcohol on a q tip works well. Elaine
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Sherry Greer=20
  To: GlassList=20
  Sent: Monday, March 18, 2002 6:05 PM
  Subject: re: putty ?


  Instead of sharpened chopsticks to clean out the textured glass,
  couldn't you use bamboo skewers from the grocery store?  Already
  sharpened anyway.  Maybe they break too easy?
  Sherry


  =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
  Sherry Greer
  texpenguin@yahoo.com

  __________________________________________________
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  Yahoo! Sports - live college hoops coverage
  http://sports.yahoo.com/
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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" size=3D2>alcohol on a q tip works =
well.=20
Elaine</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A title=3Dtexpenguin@yahoo.com =
href=3D"mailto:texpenguin@yahoo.com">Sherry=20
  Greer</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=3Dglass@bungi.com=20
  href=3D"mailto:glass@bungi.com">GlassList</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Monday, March 18, 2002 =
6:05=20
PM</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> re: putty ?</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV>Instead of sharpened chopsticks to clean out the =
textured=20
  glass,<BR>couldn't you use bamboo skewers from the grocery =
store?&nbsp;=20
  Already<BR>sharpened anyway.&nbsp; Maybe they break too=20
  easy?<BR>Sherry<BR><BR><BR>=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D<BR>Sherry Greer<BR><A=20
  =
href=3D"mailto:texpenguin@yahoo.com">texpenguin@yahoo.com</A><BR><BR>____=
______________________________________________<BR>Do=20
  You Yahoo!?<BR>Yahoo! Sports - live college hoops coverage<BR><A=20
  =
href=3D"http://sports.yahoo.com/">http://sports.yahoo.com/</A><BR>----<BR=
>For=20
  subscription changes, please mail to: <A=20
  =
href=3D"mailto:glass-request@bungi.com">glass-request@bungi.com</A><BR>To=
 send=20
  to the list,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; please mail to: <A=20
  href=3D"mailto:glass@bungi.com">glass@bungi.com</A><BR>Archives =
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href=3D"http://www.bungi.com/glass">http://www.bungi.com/glass</A><BR></B=
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From owner-glass Tue Mar 19 14:28:39 2002
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X-Path: island.net!seaspray
From: "synergy glass" <seaspray@island.net>
To: "Glass Friends" <glass@bungi.com>, "Ann Baxter" <Awbaxter@aol.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: puttying, lessons learned and shared
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 13:57:41 -0800
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Thanks so much to everyone for their tips and helping me remember the =
contact paper tip.  Here are a few things I learned, things that did and =
didn't work for me...perhaps useful for CGG article.  I hope there's a =
tip or two in here that folk can learn from.

1) there is a reason everyone says to putty the front and back of =
windows on the same day.  I was using a looser batch of putty and some =
of it seeped through.  Great, except...I did 4 fronts Sat, 4 fronts =
Sunday and didn't get back to it until today, as I was unsure how to =
handle deeply textured glass on the back.  So now I'm picking dried =
putty off the back of the glass.  Recommendation: do front and back of =
windows simultaneously...you'll only make this mistake once!!

2) Read on a board somewhere to use mineral spirits instead of =
turpentine in the putty mixture as it cleaned off the glass better.  I =
tried it with these windows, and didn't notice much difference in how it =
cleaned off the windows.  On the other hand, I was high all weekend as =
the fumes are MUCH worse than turps, even with windows open.  =
Recommendation: stick to turps.

3) My experiments with deeply textured glass.  There is no point putting =
contact paper or masking tape on pieces less than 1" wide.  It merely =
comes off while scrubbing with whiting and the gunk gets in anyway.  It =
would probably work on larger more rectangular pieces though.  Clean it =
up right away, the soft gunk comes out if you brush WITH the grain of =
the glass.  Toothbrush is less effective than natural bristle scrub =
brush for this purpose.  Vaccuum crumbs up as you go.

4) Use one of those cheese shakers found in restaurants to dispense =
small quantities of whiting as needed.  You'll use less whiting (my =
consumption went down 60% when I started doing this) and your studio =
won't look like a bag of flour exploded when you're done.   Your hair =
won't be grey when you're finished.  Ooops, unless of course it was grey =
already :) :) :)

5) For pointing I use a slightly sharpened chopstick, which was useless =
for getting into the cracks of the glass texture as the point wasn't =
fine enough.  I used a periodontal probe (get one used from your =
dentist) which was very effective for this...analagous to the pointed =
manicure stick someone suggested.  I've used those and they wear out.

6)  Puttying and whiting is without question THE most obnoxious and time =
consuming part of the entire lead came process.  Compared to finishing =
up copper foil projects after the solder stage, allow about 4X as long =
for a panel of comparable size.   Recommendation: Train someone to do =
this as soon as possible!

7)  Use a shop vac with a sawdust bag installed and a bristle brush =
attachment to clean up used whiting, bits of putty, etc. as you go.  =
Each time you add whiting and it goes grey and crumbly, vacuum.  When =
you point, vacuum.  Vacuum the work table around your panel.  Vacuum  =
This turns the project from a dirty mungy job that requires complete =
studio cleaning afterwards to one that's manageable, although  you =
should still expect whiting dust throughout your glass racks!  Done this =
way it's possible to dispense with wearing a face mask while mucking =
with whiting.

Still not convinced she likes puttying, but knows she has to put up with =
it...

Carol

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<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4134.600" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>Thanks so much to everyone for their tips and helping me remember =
the=20
contact paper tip.&nbsp; Here are a few things I learned, things that =
did and=20
didn't work for me...perhaps useful for CGG article.&nbsp; I hope =
there's a tip=20
or two in here that folk can learn from.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>1) there is a reason everyone says to putty the front and back of =
windows=20
on the same day.&nbsp; I was using a looser batch of putty and some of =
it seeped=20
through.&nbsp; Great, except...I did 4 fronts Sat, 4 fronts Sunday and =
didn't=20
get back to it until today, as I was unsure how to handle deeply =
textured glass=20
on the back.&nbsp; So now I'm picking dried putty off the back of the=20
glass.&nbsp; Recommendation: do front and back of windows=20
simultaneously...you'll only make this mistake once!!</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>2) Read on a board somewhere to use mineral spirits instead of =
turpentine=20
in the putty mixture as it cleaned off the glass better.&nbsp; I tried =
it with=20
these windows, and didn't notice much difference in how it cleaned off =
the=20
windows.&nbsp; On the other hand, I was high all weekend as the fumes =
are MUCH=20
worse than turps, even with windows open.&nbsp; Recommendation: stick to =

turps.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>3)&nbsp;My experiments&nbsp;with deeply textured glass.&nbsp; There =
is no=20
point putting contact paper or masking tape on pieces less than=20
1"&nbsp;wide.&nbsp; It merely comes&nbsp;off while scrubbing with =
whiting and=20
the gunk gets in anyway.&nbsp; It would probably work on larger more =
rectangular=20
pieces though.&nbsp; Clean it up right away, the soft gunk =
comes&nbsp;out if you=20
brush WITH the&nbsp;grain of&nbsp;the glass.&nbsp; Toothbrush is less =
effective=20
than&nbsp;natural bristle scrub brush for this purpose.&nbsp; Vaccuum =
crumbs up=20
as you go.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>4) Use one of those cheese shakers found in restaurants to dispense =
small=20
quantities of whiting as needed.&nbsp; You'll use less whiting (my =
consumption=20
went down 60% when I started doing this) and your studio&nbsp;won't look =
like a=20
bag of flour exploded when you're done.&nbsp; &nbsp;Your hair won't be =
grey when=20
you're finished.&nbsp; Ooops, unless of course it was grey already :) :) =

:)</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>5)&nbsp;For pointing&nbsp;I use a slightly =
sharpened&nbsp;chopstick, which=20
was useless for getting into the cracks of the glass texture as the =
point wasn't=20
fine enough.&nbsp; I used&nbsp;a periodontal probe (get one used from =
your=20
dentist) which was very effective for this...analagous to the pointed =
manicure=20
stick someone suggested.&nbsp; I've used those and they wear out.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>6)&nbsp;&nbsp;Puttying and whiting&nbsp;is without question THE =
most=20
obnoxious and&nbsp;time consuming part of the entire lead came =
process.&nbsp;=20
Compared to&nbsp;finishing up copper foil projects after the solder =
stage, allow=20
about 4X as long for a panel of comparable size.&nbsp;&nbsp; =
Recommendation:=20
Train someone to do this as soon as possible!</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>7)&nbsp; Use a shop vac with a sawdust bag installed and a bristle =
brush=20
attachment to clean up used whiting, bits of putty, etc. as you =
go.&nbsp; Each=20
time you add whiting and it goes grey and crumbly, vacuum.&nbsp; When =
you point,=20
vacuum.&nbsp; Vacuum the work table around your panel.&nbsp; =
Vacuum&nbsp; This=20
turns the project from a dirty mungy job that requires complete studio =
cleaning=20
afterwards to one that's manageable, although&nbsp; you should still =
expect=20
whiting dust throughout your glass racks!&nbsp; Done this way it's =
possible to=20
dispense with wearing a face mask while mucking with whiting.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Still not convinced she likes puttying, but knows she has to put up =
with=20
it...</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Carol</DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-glass Tue Mar 19 16:02:05 2002
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Carol,

I would just like to commend you on a wonderful email.  How nice it was of 
you to take the time to put all your information into one letter - for all of 
our benefit.  

Thanks you SO much for sharing!

Loret

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  COLOR="#8000ff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SCRIPT" FACE="Comic Sans MS" LANG="0">Carol,
<BR>
<BR>I would just like to commend you on a wonderful email. &nbsp;How nice it was of you to take the time to put all your information into one letter - for all of our benefit. &nbsp;
<BR>
<BR>Thanks you SO much for sharing!
<BR>
<BR>Loret</FONT></HTML>

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From owner-glass Tue Mar 19 18:38:51 2002
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From: "Byron Wells" <byronw26@attbi.com>
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Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: putty ?
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 20:13:33 -0600
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Precedence: bulk

I always use 1/4-3/8 hard wood dowels.. An electric pencil sharpener works
great at putting a good point on them too....

Byron...
Wells Glassworks

----- Original Message -----
From: "Sherry Greer" <texpenguin@yahoo.com>
To: "GlassList" <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Monday, March 18, 2002 5:05 PM
Subject: re: putty ?


> Instead of sharpened chopsticks to clean out the textured glass,
> couldn't you use bamboo skewers from the grocery store?  Already
> sharpened anyway.  Maybe they break too easy?
> Sherry
>
>
> =====
> Sherry Greer
> texpenguin@yahoo.com
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Sports - live college hoops coverage
> http://sports.yahoo.com/
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>

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From owner-glass Tue Mar 19 19:04:46 2002
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Subject: Re: puttying, lessons learned and shared
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I agree.  What a generous and thoughtful thing to do.  I now have a synopsis of all the suggestions along with realife firsthand commentary on what does and does not work!

Thanks.

Lenora
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From owner-glass Tue Mar 19 19:35:02 2002
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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 20:10:45 -0600
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Amen sister!!!

I have a helper that works for me 10-50 hours per week as needed and guess
who get the honor and privilege of the putty jobs! Drawing,building etc is
great but if I could wish one nasty job away it would be this...

Byron...
Wells Glassworks

>
> 6)  Puttying and whiting is without question THE most obnoxious and time =
> consuming part of the entire lead came process.  Compared to finishing =
> up copper foil projects after the solder stage, allow about 4X as long =
> for a panel of comparable size.   Recommendation: Train someone to do =
> this as soon as possible!
>
> Carol
>


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From owner-glass Wed Mar 20 07:08:19 2002
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Subject: Re: puttying, lessons learned and shared
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 06:55:39 -0800
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References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@island.net>>
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Nice follow-up, Carol!  The only thing I might add is to consider using 
sawdust instead of whiting.  It's a lot kinder to the lungs and doesn't get 
blown around the studio the way whiting does.  Do you have a ready source 
of redwood up north?  I was originally taught that the tannins in redwood 
aided the came-blackening process.  This may be urban legend!

I typically "make" sawdust specifically for this job by attaching a plastic 
bag up the sawdust-diverter hose on my radial-arm saw and kerfing (to 
death) a piece of scrap redwood.  Doesn't take much wood to make lots of 
sawdust this way!  Only in a pinch would I rely on the dirty stuff I'd 
sweep off the floor.

At 01:57 PM 3/18/02, synergy glass wrote:

>Thanks so much to everyone for their tips and helping me remember the =
>contact paper tip.  Here are a few things I learned, things that did and =
>didn't work for me...perhaps useful for CGG article.  I hope there's a =
>tip or two in here that folk can learn from.
>
>1) there is a reason everyone says to putty the front and back of =
>windows on the same day.  I was using a looser batch of putty and some =
>of it seeped through.  Great, except...I did 4 fronts Sat, 4 fronts =
>Sunday and didn't get back to it until today, as I was unsure how to =
>handle deeply textured glass on the back.  So now I'm picking dried =
>putty off the back of the glass.  Recommendation: do front and back of =
>windows simultaneously...you'll only make this mistake once!!
>
>2) Read on a board somewhere to use mineral spirits instead of =
>turpentine in the putty mixture as it cleaned off the glass better.  I =
>tried it with these windows, and didn't notice much difference in how it =
>cleaned off the windows.  On the other hand, I was high all weekend as =
>the fumes are MUCH worse than turps, even with windows open.  =
>Recommendation: stick to turps.
>
>3) My experiments with deeply textured glass.  There is no point putting =
>contact paper or masking tape on pieces less than 1" wide.  It merely =
>comes off while scrubbing with whiting and the gunk gets in anyway.  It =
>would probably work on larger more rectangular pieces though.  Clean it =
>up right away, the soft gunk comes out if you brush WITH the grain of =
>the glass.  Toothbrush is less effective than natural bristle scrub =
>brush for this purpose.  Vaccuum crumbs up as you go.
>
>4) Use one of those cheese shakers found in restaurants to dispense =
>small quantities of whiting as needed.  You'll use less whiting (my =
>consumption went down 60% when I started doing this) and your studio =
>won't look like a bag of flour exploded when you're done.   Your hair =
>won't be grey when you're finished.  Ooops, unless of course it was grey =
>already :) :) :)
>
>5) For pointing I use a slightly sharpened chopstick, which was useless =
>for getting into the cracks of the glass texture as the point wasn't =
>fine enough.  I used a periodontal probe (get one used from your =
>dentist) which was very effective for this...analagous to the pointed =
>manicure stick someone suggested.  I've used those and they wear out.
>
>6)  Puttying and whiting is without question THE most obnoxious and time =
>consuming part of the entire lead came process.  Compared to finishing =
>up copper foil projects after the solder stage, allow about 4X as long =
>for a panel of comparable size.   Recommendation: Train someone to do =
>this as soon as possible!
>
>7)  Use a shop vac with a sawdust bag installed and a bristle brush =
>attachment to clean up used whiting, bits of putty, etc. as you go.  =
>Each time you add whiting and it goes grey and crumbly, vacuum.  When =
>you point, vacuum.  Vacuum the work table around your panel.  Vacuum  =
>This turns the project from a dirty mungy job that requires complete =
>studio cleaning afterwards to one that's manageable, although  you =
>should still expect whiting dust throughout your glass racks!  Done this =
>way it's possible to dispense with wearing a face mask while mucking =
>with whiting.
>
>Still not convinced she likes puttying, but knows she has to put up with =
>it...
>
>Carol

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From owner-glass Wed Mar 20 08:10:56 2002
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X-Path: island.net!seaspray
From: "synergy glass" <seaspray@island.net>
To: <Roxie1824@aol.com>, <glass@bungi.com>, <Awbaxter@aol.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: Re: puttying, lessons learned and shared
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 07:39:54 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@island.net>
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_001F_01C1CF19.42B56240
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You're welcome Loret.  Bungi used to be active like this with lots of =
great information a couple of years ago...just hoping that if I start =
sharing others will too.

Carol
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Roxie1824@aol.com=20
  To: seaspray@island.net ; glass@bungi.com ; Awbaxter@aol.com=20
  Sent: Tuesday, March 19, 2002 3:36 PM
  Subject: Re: puttying, lessons learned and shared


  Carol,=20

  I would just like to commend you on a wonderful email.  How nice it =
was of you to take the time to put all your information into one letter =
- for all of our benefit.  =20

  Thanks you SO much for sharing!=20

  Loret=20

------=_NextPart_000_001F_01C1CF19.42B56240
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4134.600" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>You're welcome Loret.&nbsp; Bungi used to be active like this with =
lots of=20
great information a couple of years ago...just hoping that if I start =
sharing=20
others will too.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Carol</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A title=3DRoxie1824@aol.com=20
  href=3D"mailto:Roxie1824@aol.com">Roxie1824@aol.com</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=3Dseaspray@island.net=20
  href=3D"mailto:seaspray@island.net">seaspray@island.net</A> ; <A=20
  title=3Dglass@bungi.com =
href=3D"mailto:glass@bungi.com">glass@bungi.com</A> ; <A=20
  title=3DAwbaxter@aol.com =
href=3D"mailto:Awbaxter@aol.com">Awbaxter@aol.com</A>=20
  </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, March 19, 2002 =
3:36=20
  PM</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: puttying, lessons =
learned=20
  and shared</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT lang=3D0 =
face=3D"Comic Sans MS"=20
  color=3D#8000ff size=3D2 FAMILY=3D"SCRIPT">Carol, <BR><BR>I would just =
like to=20
  commend you on a wonderful email. &nbsp;How nice it was of you to take =
the=20
  time to put all your information into one letter - for all of our =
benefit.=20
  &nbsp; <BR><BR>Thanks you SO much for sharing! <BR><BR>Loret</FONT>=20
</FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_001F_01C1CF19.42B56240--

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From owner-glass Wed Mar 20 08:28:25 2002
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From: boyd <boydz@mindspring.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
Subject: sawdust: was Re: puttying, lessons learned and shared
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 11:23:13 -0800
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References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@island.net>>
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  At 06:55 AM 3/20/2002 -0800, steve wrote:

>Nice follow-up, Carol!  The only thing I might add is to consider using 
>sawdust instead of whiting.  It's a lot kinder to the lungs and doesn't 
>get blown around the studio the way whiting does.  Do you have a ready 
>source of redwood up north?  I was originally taught that the tannins in 
>redwood aided the came-blackening process.  This may be urban legend!

since i don't have any wood working equipment in my studio, i just head 
over to my local large hardware store with a big green trash bag (for those 
of you familiar with it, it's home depot) and have the guys who work the 
big saws fill it up. so far, they've been happy to get rid of the stuff for 
free. rubbing the sawdust over the lead does give it a nice dark glow.

i'll bet you can get tons from lumberyards too, but i haven't tried that 
since the people at home depot have been so accommodating. <g>

--boyd




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From owner-glass Wed Mar 20 16:14:32 2002
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X-Path: villagesoftsmith.com!steve
From: Steve Wernecke <steve@villagesoftsmith.com>
To: boyd <boydz@mindspring.com>,<glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
Subject: Re: sawdust: was Re: puttying, lessons learned and shared
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 15:17:35 -0800
Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20020320151400.00b436a0@pop.mail.yahoo.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@island.net>>
Precedence: bulk

If you get sawdust from someone else, just make sure it's not "dirty" ...as 
in swept off the floor.  Little bits of rock or other hard foreign 
particles could scratch the glass.

Steve

At 11:23 AM 3/20/02, boyd wrote:

>  At 06:55 AM 3/20/2002 -0800, steve wrote:
>
>>Nice follow-up, Carol!  The only thing I might add is to consider using 
>>sawdust instead of whiting.  It's a lot kinder to the lungs and doesn't 
>>get blown around the studio the way whiting does.  Do you have a ready 
>>source of redwood up north?  I was originally taught that the tannins in 
>>redwood aided the came-blackening process.  This may be urban legend!
>
>since i don't have any wood working equipment in my studio, i just head 
>over to my local large hardware store with a big green trash bag (for 
>those of you familiar with it, it's home depot) and have the guys who work 
>the big saws fill it up. so far, they've been happy to get rid of the 
>stuff for free. rubbing the sawdust over the lead does give it a nice dark 
>glow.
>
>i'll bet you can get tons from lumberyards too, but i haven't tried that 
>since the people at home depot have been so accommodating. <g>
>
>--boyd
>
>
>
>
>----
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From owner-glass Wed Mar 20 17:16:48 2002
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X-Path: infoblvd.net!tuneable
From: "Melody LaChiusa" <tuneable@infoblvd.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: New to glass
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 20:01:14 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@infoblvd.net>
Precedence: bulk

Hi, I am new to stained glass(about a month), but I really like it and would
like to find out more.  I also belong to the Sheltie list and I have learned
a wealth of information from those people in the last six years and I am
hoping the this list will offer me the same.

My first question:  I am getting a little better on cutting me pieces and
grinding them to fit, but my soldering sucks!  I don't know if the temp
isn't right or if my tip needs to change.  I just have a single temp with a
head that looks like a screw driver.  I was noticing at work that the solder
iron my co worker uses for fixing monitors has a pointed tip and also a
smaller flat tip. I realize that we are talking about two completely
different kinds of soldering, but I do seem to have big lumps and was
wondering if a smaller tip would help.  I probably just need to learn more
control.

Any suggestions are appreciated!  I am looking forward to learning lots for
you guy's!
 Thanks!

Melody LaChiusa
44 Ravine St.
Hornell, NY  14843

lachiump@alfredstate.edu
tuneable@infoblvd.net

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From owner-glass Wed Mar 20 18:18:40 2002
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X-Path: mindspring.com!glassgirl
From: "cheryl zipf" <glassgirl@mindspring.com>
To: "Melody LaChiusa" <tuneable@infoblvd.net>,
Subject: Re: New to glass
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 20:52:09 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@mindspring.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@infoblvd.net>>
Precedence: bulk

always just remember the one pat joint and perfect that tecnique.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Melody LaChiusa" <tuneable@infoblvd.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 20, 2002 5:01 PM
Subject: New to glass


> Hi, I am new to stained glass(about a month), but I really like it and
would
> like to find out more.  I also belong to the Sheltie list and I have
learned
> a wealth of information from those people in the last six years and I am
> hoping the this list will offer me the same.
>
> My first question:  I am getting a little better on cutting me pieces and
> grinding them to fit, but my soldering sucks!  I don't know if the temp
> isn't right or if my tip needs to change.  I just have a single temp with
a
> head that looks like a screw driver.  I was noticing at work that the
solder
> iron my co worker uses for fixing monitors has a pointed tip and also a
> smaller flat tip. I realize that we are talking about two completely
> different kinds of soldering, but I do seem to have big lumps and was
> wondering if a smaller tip would help.  I probably just need to learn more
> control.
>
> Any suggestions are appreciated!  I am looking forward to learning lots
for
> you guy's!
>  Thanks!
>
> Melody LaChiusa
> 44 Ravine St.
> Hornell, NY  14843
>
> lachiump@alfredstate.edu
> tuneable@infoblvd.net
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


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From owner-glass Thu Mar 21 06:22:33 2002
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From: Nancy Saucier <nts@datasync.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: soldering
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 08:06:58 -0600
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Precedence: bulk

Hi, Melody.  I, too, had a time with soldering when I first started doing
glass.  I did find that using the smaller tip on my iron was helpful.  My
iron is single temp also and that hasn't been a problem with copper foil
soldering.  I connect it to a rheostat if I have to do lead came, as the
temperature needs to be lower for that.
Nancy


Hi, I am new to stained glass(about a month), but I really like it and would
like to find out more.  I also belong to the Sheltie list and I have learned
a wealth of information from those people in the last six years and I am
hoping the this list will offer me the same.

My first question:  I am getting a little better on cutting me pieces and
grinding them to fit, but my soldering sucks!  I don't know if the temp
isn't right or if my tip needs to change.  I just have a single temp with a
head that looks like a screw driver.  I was noticing at work that the solder
iron my co worker uses for fixing monitors has a pointed tip and also a
smaller flat tip. I realize that we are talking about two completely
different kinds of soldering, but I do seem to have big lumps and was
wondering if a smaller tip would help.  I probably just need to learn more
control.

Any suggestions are appreciated!  I am looking forward to learning lots for
you guy's!
 Thanks!

Melody LaChiusa


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From owner-glass Thu Mar 21 06:44:24 2002
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X-Path: cornell.edu!bjs10
From: bjs10@cornell.edu
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: New to glass
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 09:08:05 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@cornell.edu>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@infoblvd.net>>
Precedence: bulk

Hi Melody,
Welcome to the wonderful world of glass.  Don't worry too much about your 
soldering, just keep practicing, practicing, practicing.  That is what 
really works the best.  Here are a few tips:

If you do not have a rheostat.... get one.  This is an electrical 
temperature control box that you plug your iron into and then plug the 
box into an outlet.  The rheostat will help regulate the temperature of 
your iron.  On a practice piece try your soldering out with different 
temperatures and see where your iron works the easiest.

If your temp it too hot the solder will be to and sink to the other side 
of your work.  It will also be more difficult to creat an even bead, your 
glass will get too hot too fast and my cause stress fractures and crack.

When you find a temp that works well for you... try this: Hold your 
solder with a fairly long piece extended from the spool just in front of 
your tip.  Start to solder by loading the tip with solder at a point 
where your pieces are side by side. In other words, do not start your 
solder line at a junction. Pull the solder over a juction,soldering all 
points of the juntion and then back to a straight section.  To stop the
 soldering, pull the tip of your 
soldering iron off the seam at the middle of a straight section onto the 
glass at a slight angle, like tapering off the line. Feed the solder to 
the iron as you go, carefully watching the bead.  You will know when to 
feed more solder by how the bead forms on your lines.  This will take 
practice.  You are combining several factors when you solder.  Using the 
right amount of flux, having your iron operating at the best temperature, 
soldering well cut and foiled pieces. 
     Each step in your process is very important to the quality of the 
final product.  And it will take practice.
     Recently I came across a piece that I made when I first started 
glass, I was so proud of it!!  It really is interesting to see how my 
work has improved over the years... needless to say that piece reminds me 
of that!
      I hope this helps a little....  and stay with it.  Working on glass 
is worth it.  You will get a wealth of information from this list, I sure 
have.  I have learned more from this list than any other source.

Good Glassing,
Barbara

On Wed, 20 Mar 2002, Melody LaChiusa wrote:

> Hi, I am new to stained glass(about a month), but I really like it and would
> like to find out more.  I also belong to the Sheltie list and I have learned
> a wealth of information from those people in the last six years and I am
> hoping the this list will offer me the same.
> 
> My first question:  I am getting a little better on cutting me pieces and
> grinding them to fit, but my soldering sucks!  I don't know if the temp
> isn't right or if my tip needs to change.  I just have a single temp with a
> head that looks like a screw driver.  I was noticing at work that the solder
> iron my co worker uses for fixing monitors has a pointed tip and also a
> smaller flat tip. I realize that we are talking about two completely
> different kinds of soldering, but I do seem to have big lumps and was
> wondering if a smaller tip would help.  I probably just need to learn more
> control.
> 
> Any suggestions are appreciated!  I am looking forward to learning lots for
> you guy's!
>  Thanks!
> 
> Melody LaChiusa
> 44 Ravine St.
> Hornell, NY  14843
> 
> lachiump@alfredstate.edu
> tuneable@infoblvd.net
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> 
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From owner-glass Thu Mar 21 06:57:33 2002
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X-Path: stratus.com!Charlie.Spitzer
From: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie.Spitzer@stratus.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: RE: New to glass
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 07:32:47 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@stratus.com>
Precedence: bulk

if you're talking about copper foil, the lumps mean that your iron isn't hot
enough, or you're moving it to quickly. if it's a small one, it takes time
to get back to a high enough temperature once you start a run.

go slower, get a more powerful iron, or a hotter tip. the most common tip is
a 1/4" chisel tip.

regards,
charlie
cave creek, az

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Melody LaChiusa [mailto:tuneable@infoblvd.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, March 20, 2002 6:01 PM
> To: glass@bungi.com
> Subject: New to glass
> 
> 
> Hi, I am new to stained glass(about a month), but I really 
> like it and would
> like to find out more.  I also belong to the Sheltie list and 
> I have learned
> a wealth of information from those people in the last six 
> years and I am
> hoping the this list will offer me the same.
> 
> My first question:  I am getting a little better on cutting 
> me pieces and
> grinding them to fit, but my soldering sucks!  I don't know 
> if the temp
> isn't right or if my tip needs to change.  I just have a 
> single temp with a
> head that looks like a screw driver.  I was noticing at work 
> that the solder
> iron my co worker uses for fixing monitors has a pointed tip 
> and also a
> smaller flat tip. I realize that we are talking about two completely
> different kinds of soldering, but I do seem to have big lumps and was
> wondering if a smaller tip would help.  I probably just need 
> to learn more
> control.
> 
> Any suggestions are appreciated!  I am looking forward to 
> learning lots for
> you guy's!
>  Thanks!
> 
> Melody LaChiusa
> 44 Ravine St.
> Hornell, NY  14843
> 
> lachiump@alfredstate.edu
> tuneable@infoblvd.net
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> 
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From owner-glass Thu Mar 21 08:57:10 2002
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From: "Lenzy Griffin-Bond" <glasslenzy@hotmail.com>
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<html><div style='background-color:'><DIV>
<P><FONT face="Arial Black, Geneva, Arial, Sans-serif">Good morning, I don't know if this made it or not. I was browsing thru some sites recently and saw a panel honoring Sept. 11th. I can't find it now and was wondering if anyone could direct me to it. I have cleaned out my history and cookies.....so poof gone. Thanks for any help!</FONT><BR><BR></P></DIV></div><br clear=all><hr>Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at <a href='http://g.msn.com/1HM305401/13'>http://explorer.msn.com</a>.<br></html>
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From owner-glass Thu Mar 21 09:28:08 2002
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From: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie.Spitzer@stratus.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: RE: looking
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 10:13:52 -0700
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score #78 at http://spectrumglass.com/Score.html has links to one.

-----Original Message-----
From: Lenzy Griffin-Bond [mailto:glasslenzy@hotmail.com]
Sent: Thursday, March 21, 2002 9:27 AM
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: looking


Good morning, I don't know if this made it or not. I was browsing thru some
sites recently and saw a panel honoring Sept. 11th. I can't find it now and
was wondering if anyone could direct me to it. I have cleaned out my history
and cookies.....so poof gone. Thanks for any help!
----
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To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
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From owner-glass Thu Mar 21 10:29:37 2002
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X-Path: doorpi.net!mmam5
From: mmam5@doorpi.net
To: glasslenzy@hotmail.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: Re: looking
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 13:15:25 EST
Message-ID: <200203211815.g2LIFUO55233@mail2.netacc.net>
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Wasn't there also an article in the last stained glass quarterly newsletter
(the freebie one from glass shops) that had a community panel they were
making in New York? (I don't have my copy with me at the moment.)

Marci


On Thu, 21 Mar 2002 16:26:47 +0000 "Lenzy Griffin-Bond" wrote:

> <html><div style='background-color:'><DIV>
> <P><FONT face="Arial Black, Geneva, Arial, Sans-serif">Good
> morning, I don't know if this made it or not. I was browsing thru
> some sites recently and saw a panel honoring Sept. 11th. I can't
> find it now and was wondering if anyone could direct me to it. I
> have cleaned out my history and cookies.....so poof gone. Thanks
> for any help!</FONT><BR><BR></P></DIV></div><br clear=all><hr>Get
> your FREE download of MSN Explorer at <a
>
href='http://g.msn.com/1HM305401/13'>http://explorer.msn.com</a>.<br></html>

> 
> ----
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> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


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From owner-glass Thu Mar 21 11:36:40 2002
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X-Path: aol.com!CUngv
From: CUngv@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: favorite bungi tips
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 14:06:15 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>
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I thought that it would be a great idea if people shared their favorite tips 
that they picked up from bungi.  I am sure that all of us use certain 
techniques because of something they picked up here.  This site is a great 
place to get an answer to a specific question you may have, but it is also 
fun to "eavesdrop" on posts that discuss areas out of one's expertise.  Along 
the way, we all pick up useful information.

Personally, I love the tip someone left about cleaning glass with isopropl 
alcohol before foiling it.  I always felt uneasy rinsing the pieces in the 
kitchen or even bathroom sink.  I like this much better and it dries so fast! 
 I also appreciate the encouraging comments I got about lead-free solder, 
which is what I use most of the time now.

Why not post your favorite tip(s)?  

Carolyn Gilinksy
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From owner-glass Thu Mar 21 15:10:04 2002
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Melody LaChiusa <tuneable@infoblvd.net>
Subject: Re: New to glass
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 21:58:22 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@verrier>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@infoblvd.net>>
Precedence: bulk

Melody,
        I see you are being recommended to get a rheostat for your
soldering iron.  If it is powerful enough to generate sufficient heat,
the rheostat will certainly reduce it, but at some costs.  
        This has been a topic of some controversy on this list in the
past.  I am of the school that says "get an iron with built in
temperature controls and you won't need a rheostat".  The costs are
about the same unless you are going for cheap, cheap.  You can get bolts
of different temperature ratings for the irons - the most common being
700 and 800 degrees F.  The 800 is better for copper foil, the 700
better for calme.  
        I know there are those who do decorative soldering, and insist
that a rheostat is necessary.  They are probably right.
        Still, there is nothing better than a temperature controlled
iron, as many who have left an iron on overnight and still had an
operating iron.  Leave one with out a temperature control and you might
have only a blown fuse.  Various melt downs are other possibilities.
        Usually the 100 watt irons are sufficient.  I have a couple of
200 watt irons one with a 700 and one with an 800 bolt in.  200 watts is
excessive, but there are no cool periods in soldering, as the bolts are
big enough to hold heat that avoids cooling too much and sticking while
running a bead.  It makes soldering lead calme quick too.


In message <1970Jan1.000.0@infoblvd.net>, Melody LaChiusa
<tuneable@infoblvd.net> writes
>Hi, I am new to stained glass(about a month), but I really like it and would
>like to find out more.  I also belong to the Sheltie list and I have learned
>a wealth of information from those people in the last six years and I am
>hoping the this list will offer me the same.
>
>My first question:  I am getting a little better on cutting me pieces and
>grinding them to fit, but my soldering sucks!  I don't know if the temp
>isn't right or if my tip needs to change.  I just have a single temp with a
>head that looks like a screw driver.  I was noticing at work that the solder
>iron my co worker uses for fixing monitors has a pointed tip and also a
>smaller flat tip. I realize that we are talking about two completely
>different kinds of soldering, but I do seem to have big lumps and was
>wondering if a smaller tip would help.  I probably just need to learn more
>control.
>
>Any suggestions are appreciated!  I am looking forward to learning lots for
>you guy's!
> Thanks!
>
>Melody LaChiusa
>44 Ravine St.
>Hornell, NY  14843
>
>lachiump@alfredstate.edu
>tuneable@infoblvd.net
>
>----
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-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Thu Mar 21 16:12:16 2002
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X-Path: juno.com!lisesto
From: Lise St-Onge <lisesto@juno.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary=--__JNP_000_2ffe.11c9.2038
Subject: Looking for the artist Ken Carder
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 17:58:01 -0600
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This message is in MIME format.  Since your mail reader does not understand
this format, some or all of this message may not be legible.

----__JNP_000_2ffe.11c9.2038
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I am looking for the artist Ken Carder. He made several solo exhibition 
and public collection.
While researching on the Wed I pick up your e-mail address on the,
"The International Guild of Glass Artists" .
I tought that you might know him or might know how
I can could reach  him out? 
I do have an glass art piece from him and would like some informations 
about it .

Thanking you in advance for all your help.

Lise 
lisesto@juno.com
(281) 850-2600
----__JNP_000_2ffe.11c9.2038
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<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4134.600" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY bottomMargin=3D0 leftMargin=3D3 topMargin=3D0 rightMargin=3D3>
<P>I am looking for the artist Ken Carder. He made several solo exhibition=
=20
<BR>and public collection.</P>
<P>While researching on the Wed I pick up your e-mail address on the,</P>
<P>"<FONT size=3D+0>The International Guild of Glass Artists"&nbsp;.</FONT>=
</P>
<P>I tought that you might know him or&nbsp;might know&nbsp;how</P>
<P>I can could reach&nbsp; him out? </P>
<P>I do have an glass art piece from him and would like some informations <=
/P>
<P>about it .<BR><BR>Thanking you in advance for all your help.<BR><BR>Lise=
 </P>
<P><A href=3D"mailto:lisesto@juno.com">lisesto@juno.com</A><BR>(281)=20
850-2600</P></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-glass Thu Mar 21 17:43:15 2002
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To: glass@bungi.com, glasslenzy@hotmail.com
Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_d3.8858324.29cbd4be_boundary"
Subject: Re: looking
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 19:28:46 EST
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Hi there.......I have two patterns honoring September 11th. I got both of 
them off the Internet. I don't remember what website had them, but if you'd 
like me to email them to you...please just email me.
Cinda

<Good morning, I don't know if this made it or not. I was browsing thru some 
sites recently and saw a panel honoring Sept. 11th. I can't find it now and 
was wondering if anyone could direct me to it. I have cleaned out my history 
and cookies.....so poof gone. Thanks for any help!>








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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  COLOR="#0080c0" SIZE=3 FACE="M Avenir Medium" LANG="0">Hi there.......I have two patterns honoring September 11th. I got both of them off the Internet. I don't remember what website had them, but if you'd like me to email them to you...please just email me.<BR>
Cinda<BR>
<BR>
</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial Black" LANG="0">&lt;Good morning, I don't know if this made it or not. I was browsing thru some sites recently and saw a panel honoring Sept. 11th. I can't find it now and was wondering if anyone could direct me to it. I have cleaned out my history and cookies.....so poof gone. Thanks for any help!&gt;<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
</FONT></HTML>
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From owner-glass Thu Mar 21 21:49:56 2002
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Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_91.1a2cdb60.29cbe25e_boundary"
Subject: Re: Looking for the artist Ken Carder
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 20:26:54 EST
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--part1_91.1a2cdb60.29cbe25e_boundary
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If you know what galleries have exhibited his work, you should try contacting 
them first.  They might have a file on him.  You might also try searching 
under his specific glass art: blown glass, cast glass, stained glass, etc.  

He is not listed as a member of the International Guild of Glass Artists, 
Inc.
Ann

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  COLOR="#004080" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Franklin Gothic Book" LANG="0">If you know what galleries have exhibited his work, you should try contacting them first.&nbsp; They might have a file on him.&nbsp; You might also try searching under his specific glass art: blown glass, cast glass, stained glass, etc.&nbsp; <BR>
<BR>
He is not listed as a member of the International Guild of Glass Artists, Inc.<BR>
Ann</FONT></HTML>

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From owner-glass Fri Mar 22 05:00:22 2002
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X-Path: erols.com!harperr
From: Bob Harper <harperr@erols.com>
To: Awbaxter@aol.com
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: Re: Looking for the artist Ken Carder
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 07:09:05 -0500
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--------------2A8851ECD3DBED6FC540055C
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This url has info on him
http://www.vitrumglass.com/artists/carder/display.html
also try google.com and and type in "ken carder glass" and
it gives several hits to help locate more info.


bob h.

Awbaxter@aol.com wrote:

> If you know what galleries have exhibited his work, you
> should try contacting them first.  They might have a file
> on him.  You might also try searching under his specific
> glass art: blown glass, cast glass, stained glass, etc.
>
> He is not listed as a member of the International Guild of
> Glass Artists, Inc.
> Ann

--------------2A8851ECD3DBED6FC540055C
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<!doctype html public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en">
<html>
This url has info on him <A HREF="http://www.vitrumglass.com/artists/carder/display.html">http://www.vitrumglass.com/artists/carder/display.html</A>
<br>also try google.com and and type in "ken carder glass" and it gives
several hits to help locate more info.
<br>&nbsp;
<p>bob h.
<p>Awbaxter@aol.com wrote:
<blockquote TYPE=CITE><font face="Franklin Gothic Book"><font color="#004080"><font size=-1>If
you know what galleries have exhibited his work, you should try contacting
them first.&nbsp; They might have a file on him.&nbsp; You might also try
searching under his specific glass art: blown glass, cast glass, stained
glass, etc.</font></font></font>
<p><font face="Franklin Gothic Book"><font color="#004080"><font size=-1>He
is not listed as a member of the International Guild of Glass Artists,
Inc.</font></font></font>
<br><font face="Franklin Gothic Book"><font color="#004080"><font size=-1>Ann</font></font></font></blockquote>
</html>

--------------2A8851ECD3DBED6FC540055C--

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From owner-glass Fri Mar 22 08:26:59 2002
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X-Path: telus.net!wayneglass
From: "Wayne R. Munro" <wayneglass@telus.net>
To: "Glass Club" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: Download from Spectrum Glass
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 08:03:58 -0800
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_003D_01C1D178.1EFF19C0
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Hi gang,
I tried to download the Score magazine from Spectrum, (#78) and I got a =
superimposed picture of glass projects over the front page and also in =
the middle/ Did anyone else have this problem? If so, what did you do?
Thanks=20
Wayne

------=_NextPart_000_003D_01C1D178.1EFF19C0
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charset=3Diso-8859-1">
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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Hi gang,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I tried to download the Score magazine =
from=20
Spectrum, (#78) and I got a superimposed picture of glass projects over =
the=20
front page and also in the middle/ Did anyone else have this problem? If =
so,=20
what did you do?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Thanks </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Wayne</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-glass Fri Mar 22 09:01:00 2002
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To: glass@bungi.com
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Hi gang,
Yep, same problem.  I used to get the newletter in the (snail) mail 
but let it lapse, so I signed up to have it start again.  If anybody has 
a solution to the printing problem, I'd be interested.  If not, maybe 
the thing to do is contact Spectrum....

Kaye
--------------------------
I tried to download the Score magazine from Spectrum, (#78) and I got a =
superimposed picture of glass projects over the front page and also in =
the middle/ Did anyone else have this problem? If so, what did you do?
Thanks=20
Wayne

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From owner-glass Fri Mar 22 11:02:33 2002
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From: "Cube" <pipsplay@midwest.net>
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Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE: Download from Spectrum Glass
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 12:09:33 -0600
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Hi gang,
	Nope.  When I printed the Newsletter from Adobe Acrobat, it had only the
pictures integral to the article.  The printed text IS artistically arranged
around the pictures of glass projects mentioned in the article.  I don't
know what I did.  Just downloaded and printed.

	Cube


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From owner-glass Fri Mar 22 15:03:07 2002
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To: <GLASS@bungi.com>
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Subject: BUNGI--question about visual esthetics
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 17:01:35 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>
Precedence: bulk

(is that a word? lol)  i've been playing around making my own glass patterns pretty much, just making glass projects of pictures, like our hockey team's logo, a fairy, frog, etc.  i'm doing this rocking horse and with every picture i find i can't quite figure out where to put the breaks in the "background glass" where it looks good.  i undertand to follow natural lines if there are points coming out but like this rocking horse, its all pretty rounded except for the mane and tail, and most of that is rounded.  also, i am currently using (forget the name of the glass) a clear glass with blue swirls for the sky, looks good, but for the bottom part i was trying to go with a similar type of glass only brown.  got it all put together, soldered up, stared at it for several days and...yuk.  way too busy.  now i have to remove that glass and figure something else out for the bottom half (removing soldered glass:  another new technique i get to learn!)  any suggestions?  maybe brown water glass for the lower section or that other bumpy glass?  what would you real artists do?!?
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From owner-glass Fri Mar 22 19:43:23 2002
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Subject: Re: BUNGI--question about visual esthetics
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 21:35:33 EST
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I usually place my subject within an environment, as opposed to standing 
alone, if its to be a panel and not a suncatcher.  It gives the subject a 
place to be, adds dimension, and allows the opportunity to use the background 
image for lead lines.

For instance, I would put a rocking horse in a child's room, probably with a 
"corner wall" behind it, so there is one vertical lead line... and there 
would be the one-point perspective of lines where the floor meets the walls, 
creating a set of two diagonal lines near the bottom third.  Maybe some toys 
on the floor?  A ball, blocks, etc. could all be incorporated, some in front 
or behind others, to make the background appear natural.

If your horse is outside, with the blue wispy sky, why not make the bottom of 
the panel green as if it were grass, adding a tree behind the back third of 
the horse for vertical lead lines?  The leaves of the tree could extend over 
the horse, and the mane and/or tail lead  lines could extending to the tree 
or branches in the background.

Personally, I avoid any lead lines that don't have a purpose, except to break 
up the background, so I guess my designs include many more elements.  

Just my methods (to my madness),
Ann

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  COLOR="#004080" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Franklin Gothic Book" LANG="0">I usually place my subject within an environment, as opposed to standing alone, if its to be a panel and not a suncatcher.&nbsp; It gives the subject a place to be, adds dimension, and allows the opportunity to use the background image for lead lines.<BR>
<BR>
For instance, I would put a rocking horse in a child's room, probably with a "corner wall" behind it, so there is one vertical lead line... and there would be the one-point perspective of lines where the floor meets the walls, creating a set of two diagonal lines near the bottom third.&nbsp; Maybe some toys on the floor?&nbsp; A ball, blocks, etc. could all be incorporated, some in front or behind others, to make the background appear natural.<BR>
<BR>
If your horse is outside, with the blue wispy sky, why not make the bottom of the panel green as if it were grass, adding a tree behind the back third of the horse for vertical lead lines?&nbsp; The leaves of the tree could extend over the horse, and the mane and/or tail lead&nbsp; lines could extending to the tree or branches in the background.<BR>
<BR>
Personally, I avoid any lead lines that don't have a purpose, except to break up the background, so I guess my designs include many more elements.&nbsp; <BR>
<BR>
Just my methods (to my madness),<BR>
Ann<BR>
</FONT></HTML>
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From owner-glass Fri Mar 22 20:47:03 2002
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From: "Moya O'Neal" <moya.oneal@verizon.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: Re:  Removing a piece of glass
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 22:49:38 -0500
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_002E_01C1D1F3.D865E8A0
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Hi,
I have found such a great tool for removing copper foiled pieces that =
have been soldered.  Using an aluminum beverage can, cut of the top and =
bottom (carefully, so you do not cut yourself.) then cut strips about =
1-1.5 inches wide. =20
Heat your solder and remove excess. Next slide the strip into the heated =
seam and move it along as you move your iron.  Voila, your seam is apart =
with very little difficulty.
Good luck,
Moya

------=_NextPart_000_002E_01C1D1F3.D865E8A0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4522.1800" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>Hi,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>I have found such a great tool for removing =
copper foiled=20
pieces that have been soldered.&nbsp; Using an aluminum beverage can, =
cut of the=20
top and bottom (carefully, so you do not cut yourself.) then cut strips =
about=20
1-1.5 inches wide.&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>Heat your solder and remove excess. Next slide =
the strip=20
into the heated seam and move it along as you move your iron.&nbsp; =
Voila, your=20
seam is apart with very little difficulty.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>Good luck,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>Moya</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_002E_01C1D1F3.D865E8A0--

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From owner-glass Fri Mar 22 21:16:50 2002
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From: CncptThnkr@aol.com
To: moya.oneal@verizon.net, glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Re: Removing a piece of glass
Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2002 00:07:22 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>
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Hello all,

I've learned a method I think is easier than "unsoldering" for removing large 
pieces of damaged glass from an assembled panel.  Use a cutter and score the 
damaged piece of glass diagonally in both directions making a grid of score 
lines.  Break the glass out from the center, then use your soldering iron and 
a pair of pliers to remove the copper foil still attached to the panel.  (The 
final step should probably be selling on eBay all the glass shards that 
you've created.)

Pat  



  
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From owner-glass Sat Mar 23 00:55:47 2002
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Bergju@aol.com
Subject: Re: BUNGI--question about visual esthetics
Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2002 08:20:40 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@verrier>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>>
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If you put the main image into a landscape or other situation, you can
use the lines of that background to provide the lines that will enable
the main image to be incorporated into a panel.

Alternatively, you can do what is done in older panels, and have an
almost regular grid in the background.  Although this would rule out the
use of the Baroque glass, as it does not fit well with a regular grid.

Almost all images need a context to look well, both visually and
intellectually.

Steve

In message <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>, Bergju@aol.com writes
>(is that a word? lol)  i've been playing around making my own glass patterns 
>pretty much, just making glass projects of pictures, like our hockey team's 
>logo, a fairy, frog, etc.  i'm doing this rocking horse and with every picture i 
>find i can't quite figure out where to put the breaks in the "background glass" 
>where it looks good.  i undertand to follow natural lines if there are points 
>coming out but like this rocking horse, its all pretty rounded except for the 
>mane and tail, and most of that is rounded.  also, i am currently using (forget 
>the name of the glass) a clear glass with blue swirls for the sky, looks good, 
>but for the bottom part i was trying to go with a similar type of glass only 
>brown.  got it all put together, soldered up, stared at it for several days 
>and...yuk.  way too busy.  now i have to remove that glass and figure something 
>else out for the bottom half (removing soldered glass:  another new technique i 
>get to learn!)  any suggestions?  maybe brown water glass for the lower sectio
> or that other bumpy glass?  what would you real artists do?!?
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Sat Mar 23 07:02:41 2002
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From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: BUNGI--question about visual esthetics
Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2002 09:23:08 -0500
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Message text written by INTERNET:Bergju@aol.com
<also, i am currently using (forget the name of the glass) a clear glass
with blue swirls for the sky, looks good, but for the bottom part i was
trying to go with a similar type of glass only brown.  got it all put
together, soldered up, stared at it for several days and...yuk.  way too
busy.  now i have to remove that glass and figure something else out for
the bottom half (removing soldered glass:  another new technique i get to=

learn!)  any suggestions?  maybe brown water glass for the lower section =
or
!
that other bumpy glass?  what would you real artists do?!?<

The glass with swirls is Spectrum's Baroque (TM) glass.  It is a difficul=
t
glass to successfully use (as you learned) because of it's uniqueness. =

Waterglass below and Baroque above will make the rocking horse look like
it's not sitting on the ground.  I would suggest a textured root beer dar=
k
brown streaky glass as the base.

Unsoldering - flux both sides of the solder line first, then hold the pan=
el
up on edge, and let gravity help pull the melted solder down.

Best wishes.

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
Denton, TX
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From owner-glass Sat Mar 23 08:03:50 2002
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Subject: Bottle decals/fusing
Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2002 10:28:46 EST
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Can you tell me where I can get decals to fuse in bottles.  I have seen a 
bottle with a sea scape design and another with birds.  I would love to try 
these.  I have looked for decals and can't seem to find any that is a design.
If you have any information on bottle fusing it would be great.
 My niece sent me a bottle of wine and I was thinking of slumping it (when it 
is empty of course)  But it is not a fancy bottle it is just plain. I was 
thinking I would slump it to cut cheese on. include a knife and send it to 
her with different cheese.
I would really like to find the decals but if not 

Do you know if I could slump colored glass to make 4 little legs on outside 
of the bottle, and also  put small colored pieces of glass inside the bottle? 
and slump it together.  Any ideas would be helpful.
Thanks Bob
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From owner-glass Sat Mar 23 14:18:09 2002
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From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@comcast.net>
To: Linda Bianca <lbianca104@comcast.net>, Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
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Subject: Blank emails
Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2002 15:53:26 -0500
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It comes through fine when sent directly to my home (I'm using Netscape),
but when it passes through the bungi list server it comes out blank.  Take
a look at your settings and see if you are sending text only, or HTML only
or both (multipart).  There is also "Using the quoted printable MIME
setting".  I cannot see that this makes a difference, since I can trigger
the blank message at Bungi myself without that, but using HTML.  But when I
do have it on, again, I only have problems if I've done something to invoke
the HTML. - Cec

Linda Bianca wrote:

> I thought my email was set to TEXT.  I hope this goes through alright.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Cecily & Ralph Wood [mailto:cecnralph@comcast.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, March 12, 2002 7:31 PM
> To: lbianca104@comcast.net
> Subject: Re: Gatewayed mail message
>
> Your test generates a blank message for many of us on Bungi.  Please set
> your email program to send only TEXT, not HTML messages. - Thank you -
> Cecily
>
> lbianca104@comcast.net wrote:

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From owner-glass Sat Mar 23 14:50:39 2002
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Subject: Re: BUNGI--question about visual esthetics
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Forgot to mention another means to work in lead lines in the background: 
creative use of borders.  You can make single or multiple borders,  or your 
original work can extend beyond an "interior" border, all giving you a way to 
balance your panel, in glass type and color, provide a "frame," and give you 
closer background lead lines to extend your central design into.
Ann

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  COLOR="#004080" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Franklin Gothic Book" LANG="0">Forgot to mention another means to work in lead lines in the background: creative use of borders.&nbsp; You can make single or multiple borders,&nbsp; or your original work can extend beyond an "interior" border, all giving you a way to balance your panel, in glass type and color, provide a "frame," and give you closer background lead lines to extend your central design into.<BR>
Ann</FONT></HTML>

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From owner-glass Sat Mar 23 18:39:18 2002
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From: Nancy Saucier <nts@datasync.com>
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Subject: handling large glass
Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2002 20:16:27 -0600
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Hi all,
I'm working on my biggest piece yet - a half-round about five feet wide and
2.5 feet high.  The closer I get to being finished, the more nervous I get
about the prospect of transporting it to its final destination!  It will be
installed in a bathroom above a tub - rather high up on the wall.  We had
to put a piece of plywood over the tub and stand the ladder on top of that
to get the measurements.  So, hoisting the finished piece into place will
be interesting.  I had thought I'd strap it to the piece of plywood I have
it on while I work on it, but that will really make it heavy and difficult
to get one's hands on the glass itself to slip it into place.  My client
will have a trim carpenter there to do the actual installation, but I want
to make this go as smoothly as possible.  This piece is going to be
beautiful, but has been a bitch to work on.  After 6 years of doing glass
rather successfully, this one has made me feel like a neophyte again!  Have
hit more snags than I care to count.  Want the final steps to go well.  Any
suggestions?
Nancy Saucier
BeauSoleil Glass
Picayune Mississippi

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From owner-glass Sat Mar 23 20:46:23 2002
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Subject: lead replacements
Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2002 22:33:13 -0500
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Precedence: bulk

Steve, Elisabeth and Elizabeth in the UK and anyone else in Europe:  Can
you find out for me what the government agencies in the UK are that
would be in charge of the lead free movement?  Since I understand it is
a Euro issue, I also need to know who to contact in the "Eurocracy".
What metals manufacturers in the UK and Europe supply solder and lead
came?

Does anyone know how the lead free business affects the making of glass
- as in lead crystal?  I do know that Steuben and Waterford no longer
make baby bottles of lead crystal, for instance, and for many years
people have been warned not to store wine or other spirits like sherry
in leaded glass containers.

Thanks - Cec

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From owner-glass Sun Mar 24 02:52:32 2002
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From: Gerry Phibbs <glasscutter@earthlink.net>
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Subject: Re: BUNGI--question about visual esthetics
Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2002 02:00:45 -0800
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Hi,
   It's difficult at best to offer opinions on glass aesthetic ideas
without seeing the actual design, but I'll offer such as I can. 
   First, I'd ask why you used a rocking horse?  No, that doesn't quite
read properly.. what was it about the rocking horse design that
intrigued you enough to do that design in glass?  Whatever that design
element is.. rather seems to me to be the focus of your panel, so your
"background" glass doesn't necessarily have to follow the same sorts of
design elements.  
    Frankly, I generally prefer to design such "focused" panels such
that the main design is central, and the background design draws the eye
to that central design.  Often I've done panels as medallions, the
design centered in a larger circle of glass.  My lead lines are straight
lines radiating out from the center of that circle, as many lines as I
may need to balance out the design, and have enough joints to begin and
end the central design pattern.  Rectangular panels seem to me to be
harder to do with such a "focus" since our eyes tend to follow the
horizontal and vertical lines, but it can be done using similar
radiating lines, just put the center spot where the lines radiate from,
at a point where your eye will be drawn back to the rocking horse.
  If your rocking horse pattern has a lot of pieces, and is fairly
detailed, I'm not sure that you're helping yourself by using the baroque
glass, simply because of what you've already seen, the background glass,
those blue swirls are visually competing with the rocking horse design. 
You might try a glass that has less contrasty swirls, or experiment with
an opalescent glass as the background, I like the juxtaposition of
cathedral and opaque glasses, but that's just me.
   There are many ways to remove soldered glass.  One that works for me
on smallish sorts of panels, is to flux the joints, and then position
that area so that it hangs over the side of my work bench.  Then I bring
my soldering iron up underneath the panel and heat the joints.  The
solder simply runs down the iron, and hits the floor.  This removes most
(but not all) of the solder.  Then, once it's cooled down, I'll take a
small chisel, or Xacto knife, and start peeling up the foil on one side
of the panel, and do the same on the other.  If you're careful and
patient, you can get the foil up fairly well.  Sometimes a bit more heat
with the soldering iron, will free up a portion of the peeled up foils
so that you can grab it with some small pliers, and begin to work it
free of the rest of the panel.
  Safety note here.. don't do any of this whilst wearing open toes shoes
or sandals.  Don't put much pressure on the panel, and work carefully. 
Sometimes you may have to sacrifice a piece of the glass, just to get
enough of the foil out of the way to continue removing the rest of it,
but you shouldn't have to destroy all of the glass pieces just to get
them out.  Wear eye protection, as small hot blobs of solder really
don't react well with your eyeballs!
  Have some fun, and enjoy this experiment.. figure out a design that
works to suit your eyes.  In the end, that's all that really matters.
  Peace  -Gerry Phibbs, IGGA
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From owner-glass Sun Mar 24 07:44:37 2002
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X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: bungi:Bottle decals/fusing
Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2002 09:30:28 -0500
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Precedence: bulk

Message text written by INTERNET:ARTIZ01@aol.com
>Can you tell me where I can get decals to fuse in bottles.  I have seen =
a =

bottle with a sea scape design and another with birds.  I would love to t=
ry

these.  I have looked for decals and can't seem to find any that is a
design.
If you have any information on bottle fusing it would be great.
 My niece sent me a bottle of wine and I was thinking of slumping it (whe=
n
it =

is empty of course)  But it is not a fancy bottle it is just plain. I was=
 =

thinking I would slump it to cut cheese on. include a knife and send it t=
o =

her with different cheese.
I would really like to find the decals but if not >

Coronet China & Decal Co., Inc.
12 North School Lane
Lancaster, PA 17603
717-394-1212 fax 717-394-3889
glass enameled decals

<Do you know if I could slump colored glass to make 4 little legs on
outside =

of the bottle, and also  put small colored pieces of glass inside the
bottle? =

and slump it together.  Any ideas would be helpful.
Thanks Bob<

Don't know about the 4 little legs.  Do know about putting small
colored pieces of glass inside the bottle for slumping.  Unless
the small colored pieces of glass are the same COE as the bottle
(and you will not know the COE of the bottle), there is a good chance
the small pieces of glass inside the bottle will cause stress fractures
and breakage due to different COEs.  My best success with this
technique was to use very tiny pieces of Uroborus glass.

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
Denton, TX
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From owner-glass Sun Mar 24 07:57:09 2002
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X-Path: island.net!seaspray
From: "synergy glass" <seaspray@island.net>
To: "Nancy Saucier" <nts@datasync.com>, <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: handling large glass
Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2002 07:05:29 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@island.net>
References: <<3.0.3.32.20020323201627.00695e38@mail.datasync.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Nancy

It's not clear to me exactly what is worrying you.  This will be cumbersome,
just take it step by step and ask for help when you need it.    Is it the
transport?  Use your glass racks so it is transported vertically, same as
doors and the other projects you've delivered in the past 6 years.

Using a plywood "sandwich" is a great way to move things around, especially
if you leave the wooden bar you used for the bottom of the jig in place to
make sure your glass can't slip out the bottom.  Not sure why you're
bothered about this...just ask for help to move it.  Two reasonably strong
and healthy people should be able to move it.

Are you worried about it having enough reinforcement?  (I assume you've
laced your design with strongline).  If the panel is floppy when you're
handling it now in the studio, it's probably a sign you should add rebar
before you deliver it.

Are you worried about getting it up the ladders?  Use 2 ladders and have the
trim carpenter take one end while you take the other up? (Take it out of the
sandwich before you do this).

Hope this has helped...I'm shooting in the dark about your exact concern.
For me the scariest part is nailing the trim holding the panels into place.
Solved that problem y'day by buying a power brad nailer.  Compressed air, no
more hammer near the glass!

Carol

Carol Swann
Synergy Glass & Creative
www.igga.org/synergy
seaspray@island.net

----- Original Message -----
From: "Nancy Saucier" <nts@datasync.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 23, 2002 6:16 PM
Subject: handling large glass


> Hi all,
> I'm working on my biggest piece yet - a half-round about five feet wide
and
> 2.5 feet high.  The closer I get to being finished, the more nervous I get
> about the prospect of transporting it to its final destination!  It will
be
> installed in a bathroom above a tub - rather high up on the wall.  We had
> to put a piece of plywood over the tub and stand the ladder on top of that
> to get the measurements.  So, hoisting the finished piece into place will
> be interesting.  I had thought I'd strap it to the piece of plywood I have
> it on while I work on it, but that will really make it heavy and difficult
> to get one's hands on the glass itself to slip it into place.  My client
> will have a trim carpenter there to do the actual installation, but I want
> to make this go as smoothly as possible.  This piece is going to be
> beautiful, but has been a bitch to work on.  After 6 years of doing glass
> rather successfully, this one has made me feel like a neophyte again!
Have
> hit more snags than I care to count.  Want the final steps to go well.
Any
> suggestions?
> Nancy Saucier
> BeauSoleil Glass
> Picayune Mississippi
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>

----
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From owner-glass Sun Mar 24 10:45:50 2002
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From: Bergju@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_119.eaf7fdf.29cf7782_boundary"
Subject: bungi-question about visual esthetics 
Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2002 13:40:02 EST
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--part1_119.eaf7fdf.29cf7782_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

thanks guys and gals, for all your suggestions.  i had a light go off in my 
head reading all these ideas!

as far as the reason the rocking horse was chosen, its a collective favorite 
of a friend of mine so i'm doing it for her birthday.  i think it will turn 
out well.

again, thanks, all!
jules

--part1_119.eaf7fdf.29cf7782_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=3 FAMILY="SERIF" FACE="Times New Roman" LANG="0">thanks guys and gals, for all your suggestions.&nbsp; i had a light go off in my head reading all these ideas!<BR>
<BR>
as far as the reason the rocking horse was chosen, its a collective favorite of a friend of mine so i'm doing it for her birthday.&nbsp; i think it will turn out well.<BR>
<BR>
again, thanks, all!<BR>
jules</FONT></HTML>

--part1_119.eaf7fdf.29cf7782_boundary--
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From owner-glass Sun Mar 24 18:22:52 2002
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X-Path: doorpi.net!mmam5
From: "Marci" <mmam5@doorpi.net>
To: "synergy glass" <seaspray@island.net>, "Nancy Saucier" <nts@datasync.com>,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject:  handling large glass/reinforcing
Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2002 19:28:43 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@doorpi.net>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@island.net>>
Precedence: bulk

She's probably like me! Just afraid that what can go wrong will!! (slippery
hands, ladder moving, etc.) I agree with just taking your time and asking
for help in the moving and

I have another question regarding the handling/making of large panels.  I'm
finally getting started on one that I mentioned before (and received very
good shipping information back in December) . . . .on the reinforcing issue
. . . This panel will be approximately 39" x 39" square. I'll be using 3/4"
zinc around the outside and was going to use "Strong Line" reinforcing
within the panel? Will this be sufficient? I had thought about using rebar -
but thought that might be overkill. The panel will be installed in a rigid
frame in a bathroom (by a contractor).

Any helpful hints will be most welcome.  Thanks

Marci
Martin Designs
www.mmartindesigns.com


----- Original Message -----
From: "synergy glass" <seaspray@island.net>
To: "Nancy Saucier" <nts@datasync.com>; <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 23, 2002 9:05 AM
Subject: Re: handling large glass


> Nancy
>
> It's not clear to me exactly what is worrying you.  This will be
cumbersome,
> just take it step by step and ask for help when you need it.    Is it the
> transport?  Use your glass racks so it is transported vertically, same as
> doors and the other projects you've delivered in the past 6 years.
>
> Using a plywood "sandwich" is a great way to move things around,
especially
> if you leave the wooden bar you used for the bottom of the jig in place to
> make sure your glass can't slip out the bottom.  Not sure why you're
> bothered about this...just ask for help to move it.  Two reasonably strong
> and healthy people should be able to move it.
>
> Are you worried about it having enough reinforcement?  (I assume you've
> laced your design with strongline).  If the panel is floppy when you're
> handling it now in the studio, it's probably a sign you should add rebar
> before you deliver it.
>
> Are you worried about getting it up the ladders?  Use 2 ladders and have
the
> trim carpenter take one end while you take the other up? (Take it out of
the
> sandwich before you do this).
>
> Hope this has helped...I'm shooting in the dark about your exact concern.
> For me the scariest part is nailing the trim holding the panels into
place.
> Solved that problem y'day by buying a power brad nailer.  Compressed air,
no
> more hammer near the glass!
>
> Carol
>
> Carol Swann
> Synergy Glass & Creative
> www.igga.org/synergy
> seaspray@island.net
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Nancy Saucier" <nts@datasync.com>
> To: <glass@bungi.com>
> Sent: Saturday, March 23, 2002 6:16 PM
> Subject: handling large glass
>
>
> > Hi all,
> > I'm working on my biggest piece yet - a half-round about five feet wide
> and
> > 2.5 feet high.  The closer I get to being finished, the more nervous I
get
> > about the prospect of transporting it to its final destination!  It will
> be
> > installed in a bathroom above a tub - rather high up on the wall.  We
had
> > to put a piece of plywood over the tub and stand the ladder on top of
that
> > to get the measurements.  So, hoisting the finished piece into place
will
> > be interesting.  I had thought I'd strap it to the piece of plywood I
have
> > it on while I work on it, but that will really make it heavy and
difficult
> > to get one's hands on the glass itself to slip it into place.  My client
> > will have a trim carpenter there to do the actual installation, but I
want
> > to make this go as smoothly as possible.  This piece is going to be
> > beautiful, but has been a bitch to work on.  After 6 years of doing
glass
> > rather successfully, this one has made me feel like a neophyte again!
> Have
> > hit more snags than I care to count.  Want the final steps to go well.
> Any
> > suggestions?
> > Nancy Saucier
> > BeauSoleil Glass
> > Picayune Mississippi
> >
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> >
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>


----
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From owner-glass Sun Mar 24 21:41:58 2002
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X-Path: cox.net!gunnx4
From: "Suzanne Gunn" <gunnx4@cox.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: on a personal note
Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2002 23:10:23 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@cox.net>
Organization: glsasdancer
Precedence: bulk

Hi all...

If some of you wondered if I fell off the Earth without saying good bye, the
answer is...Nope.

Ive had a rough few weeks.  I went out of town suddenly because my dad was
very ill, and he died the next day.  Two weeks later, Im home.

Some things were left up in the air when I left...
Cheryl...if you are still interested, I'll check on getting you some came
liner. Let me know (if you are in town!).

Meanwhile, I'm way behind on my life and my *in* box is overflowing.  May
take me a while to catch up.

Suzanne

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From owner-glass Mon Mar 25 06:51:43 2002
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From: "Suzanne Gunn" <gunnx4@cox.net>
To: "Sherry Greer" <texpenguin@yahoo.com>,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: putty ?
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 08:10:01 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@cox.net>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>>
Organization: glsasdancer
Precedence: bulk

They break way too easy.  I like to use wooden dowels sharpened in a pencil
sharpener.   You can work alot faster when your *pick isnt breaking in your
hand.

To get putty out of glue chip (my least fav glass on Earth)
I use wadding that comes in a can for polishing chrome.
Works great.

For *heavily textured glass.  Brush until your arm is ready to come off,
then get busy picking.

Suzanne


----- Original Message -----
From: "Sherry Greer" <texpenguin@yahoo.com>
To: "GlassList" <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Monday, March 18, 2002 5:05 PM
Subject: re: putty ?


> Instead of sharpened chopsticks to clean out the textured glass,
> couldn't you use bamboo skewers from the grocery store?  Already
> sharpened anyway.  Maybe they break too easy?
> Sherry
>
>
> =====
> Sherry Greer
> texpenguin@yahoo.com
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Sports - live college hoops coverage
> http://sports.yahoo.com/
> ----
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>

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From owner-glass Mon Mar 25 09:39:19 2002
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X-Path: doorpi.net!mmam5
From: mmam5@doorpi.net
To: seaspray@island.net
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: handling large glass/reinforcing
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 10:57:46 EST
Message-ID: <200203251557.g2PFvp079826@mail1.netacc.net>
Precedence: bulk

Thanks Carol!

As always, good information for me to digest. Stongline in lieu of restrip,
sounds good. Hopefully it will be shipped before mid-June or so (depending
on how much playtime gets in the way of my worktime!)  It's to be a panel
of Hummingbirds and Hibiscus flowers, more on the opaque side, but should
be very pretty and colorful.  I'll be updating my website soon to get some
of these projects "out there" for viewing!!  :) Now to find the time!

Thanks again,

Marci
www.mmartindesigns.com




On Sun, 24 Mar 2002 07:44:37 -0800 "synergy glass" wrote: 

Marci 

Confidence...visualize yourself doing things successfully and you will be
successful. 

I do remember the shipping conversations.  I've often wondered if it
arrived alright... 

Definitely use strongline (not restrip).  I would use several runs of
strongline.  Remember it needs to run in one continuous strip from edge to
edge and be soldered to the zinc outside edge for max. support. Where the
lead line bends around corners to follow a design, you will bend the
restrip so it also bends...what's important is edge to edge, not (within
reason) how many corners there are. 

Whether to run it horizontally,  vertically or even diagonally is a
judgement call and depends on the design.  If when you look at the design
the panel shows any possibility or tendency to "fold" along a lead line,
you want to run it perpendicular to that area.	It's so design-specific
it's difficult to make any real suggestions without seeing the design. 

If you add rebar you will need to have clear communication with the
installing contractor that the long tails you will leave on the rebar need
to be inserted into the frame itself, not merely trimmed to fit the
opening. I've found that contractors want to take the easy way out.  If the
ends are trimmed off instead of becoming a structural part of the house,
you might as well not add the rebar.  It supports nothing and will in fact
be a drag on the panel itself. 

Carol 

----- Original Message ----- From: "Marci" <mmam5@doorpi.net> To: "synergy
glass" <seaspray@island.net>; "Nancy Saucier" <nts@datasync.com> Sent:
Sunday, March 24, 2002 5:28 PM Subject: handling large glass/reinforcing 


She's probably like me! Just afraid that what can go wrong will!! (slippery
hands, ladder moving, etc.) I agree with just taking your time and asking
for help in the moving and 

I have another question regarding the handling/making of large panels. I'm
finally getting started on one that I mentioned before (and received very
good shipping information back in December) . . . .on the reinforcing issue
. . . This panel will be approximately 39" x 39" square. I'll be using 
3/4" zinc around the outside and was going to use "Strong Line" reinforcing
within the panel? Will this be sufficient? I had thought about using rebar
- but thought that might be overkill. The panel will be installed in a
rigid frame in a bathroom (by a contractor). 

Any helpful hints will be most welcome.  Thanks 

Marci Martin Designs www.mmartindesigns.com 


----- Original Message ----- From: "synergy glass" <seaspray@island.net>
To: "Nancy Saucier" <nts@datasync.com>; <glass@bungi.com> Sent: Saturday,
March 23, 2002 9:05 AM Subject: Re: handling large glass 


Nancy 

It's not clear to me exactly what is worrying you.  This will be
cumbersome, just take it step by step and ask for help when you need it. Is
it the transport?  Use your glass racks so it is transported vertically,
same as doors and the other projects you've delivered in the past 6 years. 


Using a plywood "sandwich" is a great way to move things around, especially
if you leave the wooden bar you used for the bottom of the jig in place to
make sure your glass can't slip out the bottom.  Not sure why you're
bothered about this...just ask for help to move it.  Two reasonably strong
and healthy people should be able to move it. 

Are you worried about it having enough reinforcement?  (I assume you've
laced your design with strongline).  If the panel is floppy when you're
handling it now in the studio, it's probably a sign you should add rebar
before you deliver it. 

Are you worried about getting it up the ladders?	Use 2 ladders and
have the trim carpenter take one end while you take the other up? (Take it
out of the sandwich before you do this). 

Hope this has helped...I'm shooting in the dark about your exact concern.
For me the scariest part is nailing the trim holding the panels into place.
Solved that problem y'day by buying a power brad nailer. Compressed air, no
more hammer near the glass! 

Carol 

Carol Swann Synergy Glass & Creative www.igga.org/synergy
seaspray@island.net 

----- Original Message ----- From: "Nancy Saucier" <nts@datasync.com> To:
<glass@bungi.com> Sent: Saturday, March 23, 2002 6:16 PM Subject: handling
large glass 


Hi all, I'm working on my biggest piece yet - a half-round about five feet
wide and 
2.5 feet high.	The closer I get to being finished, the more nervous I get
about the prospect of transporting it to its final destination!      It
will be installed in a bathroom above a tub - rather high up on the wall. 
We had to put a piece of plywood over the tub and stand the ladder on top
of that to get the measurements.  So, hoisting the finished piece into
place will be interesting.  I had thought I'd strap it to the piece of
plywood I have it on while I work on it, but that will really make it heavy
and difficult to get one's hands on the glass itself to slip it into place.
 My client will have a trim carpenter there to do the actual installation,
but I want to make this go as smoothly as possible.  This piece is going to
be beautiful, but has been a bitch to work on.	After 6 years of doing
glass rather successfully, this one has made me feel like a neophyte again!
Have hit more snags than I care to count.  Want the final steps to go well.
Any suggestions? Nancy Saucier BeauSoleil Glass Picayune Mississippi

This email was cleaned by emailStripper, available for free from
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From owner-glass Mon Mar 25 10:00:33 2002
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From: Sherry Greer <texpenguin@yahoo.com>
To: GlassList <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Carol's putty lesson
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 09:27:50 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>
Precedence: bulk

Alas, the very imformative email that everyone has been commenting on
came blank to my account!  Could someone send it to me again?  Thanks
oh so much!
Sherry Greer

=====
Sherry Greer
texpenguin@yahoo.com

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From owner-glass Mon Mar 25 10:15:06 2002
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From: Sherry Greer <texpenguin@yahoo.com>
To: GlassList <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Favorite Tip
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 09:31:58 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>
Precedence: bulk

I'm completely sold on lemon oil for polishing black patinated
projects.  The suncatchers I made and polished last December are still
a deep shiny black and couldn't be prettier!  And the spell is a nice
relief from the fumes of all the other chemicals used in glass work!
Sherry Greer

=====
Sherry Greer
texpenguin@yahoo.com

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From owner-glass Mon Mar 25 10:41:15 2002
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From: Sherry Greer <texpenguin@yahoo.com>
To: GlassList <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Favorite Tip
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 09:32:10 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>
Precedence: bulk

I'm completely sold on lemon oil for polishing black patinated
projects.  The suncatchers I made and polished last December are still
a deep shiny black and couldn't be prettier!  And the smell is a nice
relief from the fumes of all the other chemicals used in glass work!
Sherry Greer

=====
Sherry Greer
texpenguin@yahoo.com

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From owner-glass Mon Mar 25 14:44:14 2002
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X-Path: stratus.com!Charlie.Spitzer
From: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie.Spitzer@stratus.com>
To: "'nts@datasync.com'" <nts@datasync.com>,
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: RE: handling large glass/reinforcing
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 15:37:41 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@stratus.com>
Precedence: bulk

you might use 3/4" lead instead of zinc, unless the zinc is the border.

when you put the lead into a window or wood strips, if it doesn't fit
exactly it's lots easier to plane down the lead rather than unsolder and cut
the glass to make it smaller.

it's just as strong. don't forget to put a dowel in the bottom piece of
lead/zinc to prevent it from collapsing.

regards,
charlie
cave creek, az

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Marci [mailto:mmam5@doorpi.net]
> Sent: Sunday, March 24, 2002 6:29 PM
> To: synergy glass; Nancy Saucier
> Subject: handling large glass/reinforcing
> 
> 
> She's probably like me! Just afraid that what can go wrong 
> will!! (slippery
> hands, ladder moving, etc.) I agree with just taking your 
> time and asking
> for help in the moving and
> 
> I have another question regarding the handling/making of 
> large panels.  I'm
> finally getting started on one that I mentioned before (and 
> received very
> good shipping information back in December) . . . .on the 
> reinforcing issue
> . . . This panel will be approximately 39" x 39" square. I'll 
> be using 3/4"
> zinc around the outside and was going to use "Strong Line" reinforcing
> within the panel? Will this be sufficient? I had thought 
> about using rebar -
> but thought that might be overkill. The panel will be 
> installed in a rigid
> frame in a bathroom (by a contractor).
> 
> Any helpful hints will be most welcome.  Thanks
> 
> Marci
> Martin Designs
> www.mmartindesigns.com
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "synergy glass" <seaspray@island.net>
> To: "Nancy Saucier" <nts@datasync.com>; <glass@bungi.com>
> Sent: Saturday, March 23, 2002 9:05 AM
> Subject: Re: handling large glass
> 
> 
> > Nancy
> >
> > It's not clear to me exactly what is worrying you.  This will be
> cumbersome,
> > just take it step by step and ask for help when you need 
> it.    Is it the
> > transport?  Use your glass racks so it is transported 
> vertically, same as
> > doors and the other projects you've delivered in the past 6 years.
> >
> > Using a plywood "sandwich" is a great way to move things around,
> especially
> > if you leave the wooden bar you used for the bottom of the 
> jig in place to
> > make sure your glass can't slip out the bottom.  Not sure why you're
> > bothered about this...just ask for help to move it.  Two 
> reasonably strong
> > and healthy people should be able to move it.
> >
> > Are you worried about it having enough reinforcement?  (I 
> assume you've
> > laced your design with strongline).  If the panel is floppy 
> when you're
> > handling it now in the studio, it's probably a sign you 
> should add rebar
> > before you deliver it.
> >
> > Are you worried about getting it up the ladders?  Use 2 
> ladders and have
> the
> > trim carpenter take one end while you take the other up? 
> (Take it out of
> the
> > sandwich before you do this).
> >
> > Hope this has helped...I'm shooting in the dark about your 
> exact concern.
> > For me the scariest part is nailing the trim holding the panels into
> place.
> > Solved that problem y'day by buying a power brad nailer.  
> Compressed air,
> no
> > more hammer near the glass!
> >
> > Carol
> >
> > Carol Swann
> > Synergy Glass & Creative
> > www.igga.org/synergy
> > seaspray@island.net
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Nancy Saucier" <nts@datasync.com>
> > To: <glass@bungi.com>
> > Sent: Saturday, March 23, 2002 6:16 PM
> > Subject: handling large glass
> >
> >
> > > Hi all,
> > > I'm working on my biggest piece yet - a half-round about 
> five feet wide
> > and
> > > 2.5 feet high.  The closer I get to being finished, the 
> more nervous I
> get
> > > about the prospect of transporting it to its final 
> destination!  It will
> > be
> > > installed in a bathroom above a tub - rather high up on 
> the wall.  We
> had
> > > to put a piece of plywood over the tub and stand the 
> ladder on top of
> that
> > > to get the measurements.  So, hoisting the finished piece 
> into place
> will
> > > be interesting.  I had thought I'd strap it to the piece 
> of plywood I
> have
> > > it on while I work on it, but that will really make it heavy and
> difficult
> > > to get one's hands on the glass itself to slip it into 
> place.  My client
> > > will have a trim carpenter there to do the actual 
> installation, but I
> want
> > > to make this go as smoothly as possible.  This piece is 
> going to be
> > > beautiful, but has been a bitch to work on.  After 6 
> years of doing
> glass
> > > rather successfully, this one has made me feel like a 
> neophyte again!
> > Have
> > > hit more snags than I care to count.  Want the final 
> steps to go well.
> > Any
> > > suggestions?
> > > Nancy Saucier
> > > BeauSoleil Glass
> > > Picayune Mississippi
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From owner-glass Tue Mar 26 06:45:16 2002
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X-Path: datasync.com!nts
From: Nancy Saucier <nts@datasync.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: handling large glass
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 07:55:39 -0600
Message-ID: <3.0.3.32.20020326075539.00699394@mail.datasync.com>
Precedence: bulk

Thanks to you all for your suggestions and comments regarding installing
the large glass I'm working on.  I feel a little more confident about it
now.  Marci, your piece sounds similar to mine - I'm doing hummingbirds
with fuschias.  Would love to see your when you're done.  One more thing -
did I dream it or did someone say something a few days ago about being able
to clean a panel with rubbing alcohol after fluxing and soldering?  There's
no way I can haul this thing to the bathtub to wash it with soap and water
as I usually do.  That would be a great solution!  
Nancy Saucier
BeauSoleil Glass
Picayune Mississippi

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From owner-glass Tue Mar 26 07:48:49 2002
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X-Path: island.net!seaspray
From: "synergy glass" <seaspray@island.net>
To: "Nancy Saucier" <nts@datasync.com>, <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: handling large glass
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 07:23:21 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@island.net>
References: <<3.0.3.32.20020326075539.00699394@mail.datasync.com>>
Precedence: bulk

The use of rubbing alcohol comment was in regards to cleaning partially
cured putty from lead came projects.  It works for that.

With your panel, don't haul it to the bathroom, haul it outside...stand it
up (put it against a board if you're more comfortable...just not the one
you'll use for delivery as it'll get wet), soap one side, hit it with the
hose to rinse, flip and repeat.

Carol
----- Original Message -----
From: "Nancy Saucier" <nts@datasync.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2002 5:55 AM
Subject: handling large glass


> Thanks to you all for your suggestions and comments regarding installing
> the large glass I'm working on.  I feel a little more confident about it
> now.  Marci, your piece sounds similar to mine - I'm doing hummingbirds
> with fuschias.  Would love to see your when you're done.  One more thing -
> did I dream it or did someone say something a few days ago about being
able
> to clean a panel with rubbing alcohol after fluxing and soldering?
There's
> no way I can haul this thing to the bathtub to wash it with soap and water
> as I usually do.  That would be a great solution!
> Nancy Saucier
> BeauSoleil Glass
> Picayune Mississippi
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>

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From owner-glass Tue Mar 26 10:21:45 2002
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X-Path: aol.com!CUngv
From: CUngv@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject:  Re: handling large glass/ rubbing alcohol
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 12:43:26 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>
Precedence: bulk

Nancy,

You wanted to know if you could clean your large panel with rubbing alcohol 
rather than hauoing it to the bathtub for soap and water.  I had posted that 
I appreciated the tip from someone else about using rubbing alcohol.  I use 
it to clean glass after it is cut and ground but i have never tried it on 
fluxed and soldered pieces.  Maybe you could solder a few pieces of scrap 
glass together and give it a try.  You may want to check for reactions with 
patina as well.  You may have stumbled into a great technique!  If it works, 
report back.  If anyone else has tried it, let us know.

Carolyn Gilinsky
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From owner-glass Tue Mar 26 10:51:15 2002
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X-Path: gte.net!rhpeltz
From: "Robert H. Peltz" <rhpeltz@gte.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: Cleaning Excess Putty 
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 09:54:08 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@gte.net>
Precedence: bulk

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_002E_01C1D4AC.2C965E40
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I was at a very good stained glass studio and noticed they use a power =
brush to clean excess putty and polish the came. This brush attaches to =
a power drill or other power unit. It is fast and looks great. Does =
anyone use this? It is called "Power Brush" and is sold through Lincoln =
Glass.

Regards

Bob Peltz

------=_NextPart_000_002E_01C1D4AC.2C965E40
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4207.2601" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I was at a very good stained glass =
studio and=20
noticed they use a power brush to clean excess putty and polish the =
came. This=20
brush attaches to a power drill or other power unit. It is fast and =
looks great.=20
Does anyone use this? It is called "Power Brush" and is sold through =
Lincoln=20
Glass.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Regards</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Bob Peltz</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_002E_01C1D4AC.2C965E40--

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From owner-glass Tue Mar 26 14:14:36 2002
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	for rglass-42; Tue, 26 Mar 2002 12:59:51 -0800 (PST)
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X-Path: stratus.com!Charlie.Spitzer
From: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie.Spitzer@stratus.com>
To: "'Robert H. Peltz'" <rhpeltz@gte.net>, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: RE: Cleaning Excess Putty 
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 12:58:38 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@stratus.com>
Precedence: bulk

i made one of these using a brush from a floor waxer and a threaded rod, and
use it in my power drill. it works pretty well on lead. don't use it on
foiled panels.

regards,
charlie

ps: please don't send mime to this list. please send text only.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Robert H. Peltz [mailto:rhpeltz@gte.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2002 10:54 AM
> To: glass@bungi.com
> Subject: Cleaning Excess Putty 
> 
> 
> This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
> 
> ------=_NextPart_000_002E_01C1D4AC.2C965E40
> Content-Type: text/plain;
> 	charset="iso-8859-1"
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
> 
> I was at a very good stained glass studio and noticed they 
> use a power =
> brush to clean excess putty and polish the came. This brush 
> attaches to =
> a power drill or other power unit. It is fast and looks great. Does =
> anyone use this? It is called "Power Brush" and is sold 
> through Lincoln =
> Glass.
> 
> Regards
> 
> Bob Peltz
> 
> ------=_NextPart_000_002E_01C1D4AC.2C965E40
> Content-Type: text/html;
> 	charset="iso-8859-1"
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
> 
> <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
> <HTML><HEAD>
> <META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
> charset=3Diso-8859-1">
> <META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4207.2601" name=3DGENERATOR>
> <STYLE></STYLE>
> </HEAD>
> <BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I was at a very good stained glass =
> studio and=20
> noticed they use a power brush to clean excess putty and polish the =
> came. This=20
> brush attaches to a power drill or other power unit. It is fast and =
> looks great.=20
> Does anyone use this? It is called "Power Brush" and is sold through =
> Lincoln=20
> Glass.</FONT></DIV>
> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Regards</FONT></DIV>
> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Bob Peltz</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
> 
> ------=_NextPart_000_002E_01C1D4AC.2C965E40--
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From owner-glass Tue Mar 26 15:05:10 2002
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X-Path: mindspring.com!the_reeds
From: "Kimmberly Reed" <the_reeds@mindspring.com>
To: "'Robert H. Peltz'" <rhpeltz@gte.net>,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE: Cleaning Excess Putty 
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 14:40:46 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@mindspring.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@gte.net>>
Precedence: bulk

There is also a brush sold through my local glass retailer that is called
Luster Brush.  They demonstrated it for me and it seems to get a dark, shiny
finish on the lead in a fraction of the time regular brushing takes. It
retails for a whopping $45.  I have looked in regular hardware stores for a
natural fiber brush like this but can't find one.  Kimmberly

-----Original Message-----
From: Robert H. Peltz [mailto:rhpeltz@gte.net]
Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2002 10:54 AM
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Cleaning Excess Putty


This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_002E_01C1D4AC.2C965E40
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I was at a very good stained glass studio and noticed they use a power =
brush to clean excess putty and polish the came. This brush attaches to =
a power drill or other power unit. It is fast and looks great. Does =
anyone use this? It is called "Power Brush" and is sold through Lincoln =
Glass.

Regards

Bob Peltz

------=_NextPart_000_002E_01C1D4AC.2C965E40
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4207.2601" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I was at a very good stained glass =
studio and=20
noticed they use a power brush to clean excess putty and polish the =
came. This=20
brush attaches to a power drill or other power unit. It is fast and =
looks great.=20
Does anyone use this? It is called "Power Brush" and is sold through =
Lincoln=20
Glass.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Regards</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Bob Peltz</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-glass Tue Mar 26 15:13:05 2002
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From: "Suzanne Gunn" <gunnx4@cox.net>
To: "Nancy Saucier" <nts@datasync.com>,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: handling large glass
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 15:35:44 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@cox.net>
References: <<3.0.3.32.20020326075539.00699394@mail.datasync.com>>
Organization: glsasdancer
Precedence: bulk

You could set up a table outside to wash it properly.

suzanne


----- Original Message -----
From: "Nancy Saucier" <nts@datasync.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2002 7:55 AM
Subject: handling large glass


> Thanks to you all for your suggestions and comments regarding installing
> the large glass I'm working on.  I feel a little more confident about it
> now.  Marci, your piece sounds similar to mine - I'm doing hummingbirds
> with fuschias.  Would love to see your when you're done.  One more thing -
> did I dream it or did someone say something a few days ago about being
able
> to clean a panel with rubbing alcohol after fluxing and soldering?
There's
> no way I can haul this thing to the bathtub to wash it with soap and water
> as I usually do.  That would be a great solution!
> Nancy Saucier
> BeauSoleil Glass
> Picayune Mississippi
>
> ----
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>

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From owner-glass Tue Mar 26 15:25:23 2002
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X-Path: doorpi.net!mmam5
From: mmam5@doorpi.net
To: seaspray@island.net
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: Re: handling large glass
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 14:48:16 EST
Message-ID: <200203261948.g2QJmLO24571@mail2.netacc.net>
Precedence: bulk

THANKS! I was wondering the same thing. Kind of funny how we tend to over
think these things!! Outside and a simple garden hose!

Hey Nancy, I'd love to see a copy of yours too! Can you post a photo of
yours on the web?  I just sent my client glass chips to choose her colors,
so it will be a good 8-10 weeks before this one is done!  I 'borrowed' the
basic pattern from one of the Glass Eye designs, stretched it and added
more greenery, birds, changed the colors and a 2" border. 

Thanks again everyone!

Marci

On Mon, 25 Mar 2002 07:23:21 -0800 "synergy glass" wrote: 

The use of rubbing alcohol comment was in regards to cleaning partially
cured putty from lead came projects.	It works for that. 

With your panel, don't haul it to the bathroom, haul it outside...stand it
up (put it against a board if you're more comfortable...just not the one
you'll use for delivery as it'll get wet), soap one side, hit it with the
hose to rinse, flip and repeat. 

Carol ----- Original Message ----- From: "Nancy Saucier" <nts@datasync.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com> Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2002 5:55 AM Subject:
handling large glass 


Thanks to you all for your suggestions and comments regarding installing
the large glass I'm working on.  I feel a little more confident about it
now.  Marci, your piece sounds similar to mine - I'm doing hummingbirds
with fuschias.	Would love to see your when you're done.  One more thing -
did I dream it or did someone say something a few days ago about being able
to clean a panel with rubbing alcohol after fluxing and soldering? There's
no way I can haul this thing to the bathtub to wash it with soap and water
as I usually do.  That would be a great solution! Nancy Saucier BeauSoleil
Glass Picayune Mississippi 

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From owner-glass Tue Mar 26 16:40:32 2002
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From: "Becker, Donna" <DF125031@exchange.DAYTONOH.NCR.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: RE: Cleaning Excess Putty 
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 17:32:15 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@exchange.DAYTONOH.NCR.com>
Precedence: bulk

I remember someone saying something about an electric shoe polisher to
wax/shine, FINISHED panels.  It would be very interested in hearing what the
options are.  I tried to find an "electric or battery powered portable shoe
polisher" but I couldn't find anything like that.  I used the polisher pad
on my dremmel, but it was worn out before a square foot of window was
polished.  Right now, I get the wax off and shine my panels using a soft
cloth and a toothbrush to get the wax out from around the solder lines.  It
takes forever!  I would just be afraid of bringing something as heavy duty
as a power drill attachment in contact with my project.  It's not the
shining it up that's the problem, it's brushing the wax out of the crevices
that's the issue - the toothbrush method just takes too long.  Something
between a dremel and a regular drill would be nice.  Is there such a thing?
If there's a BETTER way, I'd love to hear it.

Thank You!  Everytime I mention any glass related idea to my husband, he
always asks me if I got the idea from my "email buddies".
You all are great, and I really appreciate the time that you take out of
your busy lives to help me. 

Donna Becker
donna.becker@chicagoil.ncr.com



-----Original Message-----
From: Robert H. Peltz [mailto:rhpeltz@gte.net]
Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2002 11:54 AM
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Cleaning Excess Putty 


This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_002E_01C1D4AC.2C965E40
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I was at a very good stained glass studio and noticed they use a power =
brush to clean excess putty and polish the came. This brush attaches to =
a power drill or other power unit. It is fast and looks great. Does =
anyone use this? It is called "Power Brush" and is sold through Lincoln =
Glass.

Regards

Bob Peltz

------=_NextPart_000_002E_01C1D4AC.2C965E40
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4207.2601" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I was at a very good stained glass =
studio and=20
noticed they use a power brush to clean excess putty and polish the =
came. This=20
brush attaches to a power drill or other power unit. It is fast and =
looks great.=20
Does anyone use this? It is called "Power Brush" and is sold through =
Lincoln=20
Glass.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Regards</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Bob Peltz</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_002E_01C1D4AC.2C965E40--

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From owner-glass Tue Mar 26 17:46:25 2002
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X-Path: yahoo.com!texpenguin
From: Sherry Greer <texpenguin@yahoo.com>
To: GlassList <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: alcohol caution
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 17:31:43 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>
Precedence: bulk

My dad, an electrician/engineer for 40 years, let me in on a tip about
rubbing alcohol.  He never, ever uses regular rubbing alcohol to clean
electrical contacts, etc, because it is mixed with a form of oil, which
leaves oily residue behind on the contacts (or your glass).  For
example, 70% alcohol is 30% 'other stuff'.  I've had trouble using
rubbing alcohol to clean glass for foiling, because I tend to let the
alcohol evaporate off to dry, instead of rubbing them down with a cloth
(which removes the oil), and my foil never sticks very well.  Dad
suggests using pure denatured alcohol, which you can get in the grocery
store or hardware store--no oil content.  
Sherry Greer

=====
Sherry Greer
texpenguin@yahoo.com

__________________________________________________
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From owner-glass Wed Mar 27 00:52:09 2002
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From: "Frank Mizzi" <frankgmizzi@hotmail.com>
To: texpenguin@yahoo.com, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
Subject: Re: alcohol caution
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 08:14:58 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@hotmail.com>
Precedence: bulk

Hello,

I agree with what your Dad says about the "oil" in rubbing alcohol.  Just 
one point to be aware of in relation to denatured alcohol.

I am unsure of what products you have available in the US but it would be 
wise to try to establish WHAT it is denatured with.

Some of the chemicals used can be quite nasty so at least you will be able 
to determine the absolute minimum safety precautions required.

FG MIzzi


>From: Sherry Greer <texpenguin@yahoo.com>
>To: GlassList <glass@bungi.com>
>Subject: alcohol caution
>Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 17:31:43 -0800 (PST)
>
>My dad, an electrician/engineer for 40 years, let me in on a tip about
>rubbing alcohol.  He never, ever uses regular rubbing alcohol to clean
>electrical contacts, etc, because it is mixed with a form of oil, which
>leaves oily residue behind on the contacts (or your glass).  For
>example, 70% alcohol is 30% 'other stuff'.  I've had trouble using
>rubbing alcohol to clean glass for foiling, because I tend to let the
>alcohol evaporate off to dry, instead of rubbing them down with a cloth
>(which removes the oil), and my foil never sticks very well.  Dad
>suggests using pure denatured alcohol, which you can get in the grocery
>store or hardware store--no oil content.
>Sherry Greer
>
>=====
>Sherry Greer
>texpenguin@yahoo.com
>
>__________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
>Yahoo! Movies - coverage of the 74th Academy Awards®
>http://movies.yahoo.com/
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From owner-glass Wed Mar 27 03:56:36 2002
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From: Gerry Phibbs <glasscutter@earthlink.net>
To: Sherry Greer <texpenguin@yahoo.com>, GlassList <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Bungi - Re: alcohol caution
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 03:13:05 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@earthlink.net>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Hi Sherry,
  Well, there are some other considerations pertaining to things
specific to cleaning electrical contacts.  While I'm not sure there's
any "oil" per se in any mix of alcohol, there can be some other things
that can adversely affect electrical contacts, one of them being water itself.
  The term "denatured" means that the alcohol is not pure, but has some
other additive, typically water.  Methyl alcohol (as with most alcohols)
is hydrotropic, meaning that it attracts water (vapor) from the air. 
Since water and alcohol are miscible (they can readily mix one into the
other), the water vapor dilutes the alcohol.  In the manufacturing
process, it's far tougher to produce "pure" alcohol, since any exposure
to water vapor dilutes the stuff.  If you go to a scientific chemical
supply, and locate some "reagent" grade methyl alcohol, you'll pay a
very healthy price for the stuff, and as soon as you remove the cap..
well, it's not going to be "pure" any longer.
  But there are gradations of blends of alcohols, and there are various
other contaminants, depending on the manufacturer, and the price point. 
There is often a bit of an oil reside that is inside the metal cans that
the alcohol is packaged in, and that residue can in turn wind up
dissolved into the alcohol.  For many electrical contacts and
components, any water at all can react with the surface, and create some
sort of a problem, so your father had some valid concerns about using
the stuff, but again, much depends on what grade of alcohol you're
working with.
  Garden variety "rubbing alcohol" is about 70% isopropanol, and 30%
water.  This stuff is fairly cheap, but was not designed for cleaning of
parts, as much as for household medical applications.  If you want to
move up a notch, visit your local independent hardware store, and buy
some "shellac thinner", which is methyl alcohol (aka methylnol), which
is made from the destructive distillation of wood and wood fibers, as
opposed to ethylnol, which is also known as grain alcohol - stuff you
can drink, providing you don't try it straight!
  Methyl alcohol is a superior cleaner, used in any number of commercial
cleaning applications, it's a good solvent for many things, evaporates
quickly, and leaves no residue.  You may notice some areas of your
fingers that turn a bit white when using methyl alcohol, it's because
the alcohol has dissolved some of the oils in your skin, and dried out
your skin, so take some precautions.  Also, such alcohols burn very
easily, and the flame is often hard to see, as it's a pale blue flame. 
Take proper precautions in handling the stuff, and keep it tightly
capped, both to keep it from evaporating, and to keep it from absorbing
more water from the atmosphere.
  Given my choice of solvents for cleaning glass, I think I'd select
methyl alcohol second, after mineral spirits (good quality paint
thinner), then lacquer thinner third (more potent solvent), and then
possibly acetone or MEK (extremely powerful solvents, and much more
hazardous).  Whatever solvent you do select, be sure to get a MSDS on
the stuff, and read it, and keep it on file in your shop or studio.  All
of these solvents are flammable and combustible, so they're nothing to
leave laying open or unattended in your shop.
  Peace  -Gerry Phibbs, IGGA
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From owner-glass Wed Mar 27 04:14:38 2002
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From: Gerry Phibbs <glasscutter@earthlink.net>
To: bungi glasss discussion list <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Bungi - Hot Glass Venues?
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 03:22:42 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@earthlink.net>
Precedence: bulk

Hi Folks,
  I received a call from a young lady in Texas over the weekend.  She
worked in a hot glass shop in the Dallas area for a number of months,
but that job came to an end.  However, she's really got the "hot glass
bug" now.  She's currently working in a glass gallery, but finds it much
as a kid in a candy store.. she's so close to the finished work, but no
way to further her personal skill and career in hot glass.
  So, she's been looking for some sort of hot glass apprenticeship
program somewhere, that she can get involved with, and continue to
pursue her passion for hot glass.  She's indicated a preference for the
West Coast, or possibly the Pacific NorthWest.  She's been to the
Seattle area several times, but has been thus far unable to find the
sort of program that she's looking for.
  So, I put this inquiry out to those who monitor this list.  Any ideas
as to where she might continue her investigations?  Any contacts that
might be able to offer her any leads?  On the phone she was so
passionate about hot glass, and so frustrated that she can't seem to
find any way to move on in her own pursuit of hot glass, it just seems
reasonable to offer such assistance and information as might be available.
  I'll forward any suggestions to her directly.
  Thanks.. and..
  Peace  -Gerry Phibbs, IGGA
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From owner-glass Wed Mar 27 07:49:46 2002
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From: "synergy glass" <seaspray@island.net>
To: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie.Spitzer@stratus.com>,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Cleaning Excess Putty 
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 06:46:52 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@island.net>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@stratus.com>>
Precedence: bulk

I made the same thing and use it only for the final polish on my leaded
windows, to produce that beautiful black patina on the lead.

I may make another to try on foil windows, but currently don't have any
problems using soft cotton rags and terry cloth to remove all the wax.

I don't let the wax dry on the panel before polishing, but polish as soon as
it's hazed over.  It seems quite easy to get all the wax off this way
without resorting to toothbrushes, et at.  (kemopro)

Carol

Carol Swann
Synergy Glass & Creative
www.igga.org/synergy
seaspray@island.net
----- Original Message -----
From: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie.Spitzer@stratus.com>
To: "'Robert H. Peltz'" <rhpeltz@gte.net>; <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2002 11:58 AM
Subject: RE: Cleaning Excess Putty


> i made one of these using a brush from a floor waxer and a threaded rod,
and
> use it in my power drill. it works pretty well on lead. don't use it on
> foiled panels.
>
> regards,
> charlie
>
> ps: please don't send mime to this list. please send text only.
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Robert H. Peltz [mailto:rhpeltz@gte.net]
> > Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2002 10:54 AM
> > To: glass@bungi.com
> > Subject: Cleaning Excess Putty
> >
> >
> > This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
> >
> > ------=_NextPart_000_002E_01C1D4AC.2C965E40
> > Content-Type: text/plain;
> > charset="iso-8859-1"
> > Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
> >
> > I was at a very good stained glass studio and noticed they
> > use a power =
> > brush to clean excess putty and polish the came. This brush
> > attaches to =
> > a power drill or other power unit. It is fast and looks great. Does =
> > anyone use this? It is called "Power Brush" and is sold
> > through Lincoln =
> > Glass.
> >
> > Regards
> >
> > Bob Peltz
> >
> > ------=_NextPart_000_002E_01C1D4AC.2C965E40
> > Content-Type: text/html;
> > charset="iso-8859-1"
> > Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
> >
> > <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
> > <HTML><HEAD>
> > <META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
> > charset=3Diso-8859-1">
> > <META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4207.2601" name=3DGENERATOR>
> > <STYLE></STYLE>
> > </HEAD>
> > <BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
> > <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I was at a very good stained glass =
> > studio and=20
> > noticed they use a power brush to clean excess putty and polish the =
> > came. This=20
> > brush attaches to a power drill or other power unit. It is fast and =
> > looks great.=20
> > Does anyone use this? It is called "Power Brush" and is sold through =
> > Lincoln=20
> > Glass.</FONT></DIV>
> > <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
> > <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Regards</FONT></DIV>
> > <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
> > <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Bob Peltz</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
> >
> > ------=_NextPart_000_002E_01C1D4AC.2C965E40--
> ----
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>

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From owner-glass Wed Mar 27 09:47:49 2002
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From: Bergju@aol.com
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: bungi- question on respirators
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 12:08:31 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>
Precedence: bulk

ok gang.  here's another newby question.  what type of respirator is recommended when working on fluxing/soldering.  the books i've read have not been very specific and i want to be safe about this without overkill.  thanks in advance.  you guys are great to share all this wealth of info i've gained from this list!

jules
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From owner-glass Wed Mar 27 12:51:44 2002
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From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@comcast.net>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type=54455854;
Subject: NG Domain Hosting
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 15:47:22 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net>
Organization: Grendel Studio
Precedence: bulk

As of next week I have 13 more weeks to go until I'm retired!!!!!!!!!

So...I've been using spring break to fill out the many forms and read
all the tax law stuff and now have a federal business number, and have
at least half the other forms completed, etc.  (gak!)

So now it is time to consider getting my own domain name (no problem and
cheap and easy) and, more important, getting a CHEAP (free?) but
reliable host, because Comcast neither sells domain names (!?!) nor
hosts them.  This is not a web-based business, but I do want to have a
few examples of work for people to see, and some other information.

I've never had the time to learn much web design, so a host with the
built-in easy to use design stuff would be nice, and maybe later on I'll
have the time to play.  I also want to manage the site mostly, not
having to rely on the host to do all that.

I'd appreciate any advice - what to do and what to avoid!  Thanks - Cec

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From owner-glass Wed Mar 27 17:22:17 2002
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	for rglass-42; Wed, 27 Mar 2002 16:39:49 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: aol.com!GlassLites
From: GlassLites@aol.com
To: Bergju@aol.com, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: bungi- question on respirators
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 19:33:44 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>
Precedence: bulk

I use a 3m mask #8212. It states it is designed to protect from solder fumes. 
I get them mail order from a company called American Safety (I think I'm 
remembering the name correctly). It cheaper from those folks that from Delphi 
Glass, who also sell them. That's where I got my first one.

Cheryl in NJ




In a message dated 3/27/02 12:55:13 PM Eastern Standard Time, Bergju@aol.com 
writes:

> ok gang.  here's another newby question.  what type of respirator is 
> recommended when working on fluxing/soldering.  the books i've read have 
not 
> been very specific and i want to be safe about this without overkill.  
thanks 
> in advance.  you guys are great to share all this wealth of info i've 
gained 
> from this list!
>  
>  jules
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From owner-glass Thu Mar 28 06:53:09 2002
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	for rglass-42; Thu, 28 Mar 2002 06:32:19 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: doorpi.net!mmam5
From: mmam5@doorpi.net
To: cecnralph@comcast.net
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: Re: NG Domain Hosting
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 9:27:50 EST
Message-ID: <200203281427.g2SERt058976@mail1.netacc.net>
Precedence: bulk

Hoooray for you!

When I first started out I got my domain name thru www.register.com,
$35 a year/$70 2 years, along with this they give you a three page
website included in that price. They have templates, allow a bunch of
pictures, etc. Very easy to work with. The company has also been
around for over 7 years.  Yes, godaddy.com is $9 or something, but I'm
more comfortable with stability and didn't want to have to change
registration/host companies every couple of years.
www.networksolutions.com sells domain names and also has templates and
for webpages. Not sure if the webpage stuff is included for free - but
a quick check of their website would tell you. 

My site: www.mmartindesigns.com is hosted thru Hostway.com - they've
also been around for 7-8 years, it runs about $13 a month if I pay for
a full year. They also had a cheaper plan and have templates, etc. Go
to Google.com and do a search for free websites and you'll see many
many places to check out. Just be sure not to go with the cheapest -
not always the best! "You get what you pay for!"

Also IGGA.org has websites thru them - You've seen some of those from
others on the bungi list!  But it is nice to have your own domain -
now that you'll be retired, you can get into building your own webpage
- - have a glass section, a family section, etc.! Lots of fun! 

Good luck! 

Marci
Martin Designs

On Wed, 27 Mar 2002 15:47:22 -0500 Cecily & Ralph Wood wrote:

> As of next week I have 13 more weeks to go until I'm
> retired!!!!!!!!!
> 
> So...I've been using spring break to fill out the many forms and
> read
> all the tax law stuff and now have a federal business number, and
> have
> at least half the other forms completed, etc.  (gak!)
> 
> So now it is time to consider getting my own domain name (no
> problem and
> cheap and easy) and, more important, getting a CHEAP (free?) but
> reliable host, because Comcast neither sells domain names (!?!)
> nor
> hosts them.  This is not a web-based business, but I do want to
> have a
> few examples of work for people to see, and some other
> information.
> 
> I've never had the time to learn much web design, so a host with
> the
> built-in easy to use design stuff would be nice, and maybe later
> on I'll
> have the time to play.  I also want to manage the site mostly, not
> 
> having to rely on the host to do all that.
> 
> I'd appreciate any advice - what to do and what to avoid!  Thanks
> - Cec
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,	    please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


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From owner-glass Thu Mar 28 07:05:04 2002
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	for rglass-42; Thu, 28 Mar 2002 06:32:53 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: comcast.net!cecnralph
From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@comcast.net>
To: "Wayne R. Munro" <wayneglass@telus.net>, Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: Re: Virus Alert!! HOAX!!!!!
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 09:29:27 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net>
References: <<003401c1d658$2803fa60$cf76b440@bc.hsia.telus.net>>
Organization: Grendel Studio
Precedence: bulk


--Boundary_(ID_BWT0p+D8XCv0aqWG/7wsuA)
Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type=54455854;
 x-mac-creator=4D4F5353
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT

For goodness sakes, people - use some sense.  When you get a hysterical
message about a virus you can bet it is s hoax.  But if you want to be
certain, check the many sites that list the hoaxes before you do a
Chicken Licken and tell all your acquaintences that the sky is falling.

Get into your browser, and click on the search button.  Enter "virus
hoax".  Any of the search engines will immediately bring up at least 10
reliable sites that can tell you if this is a real threat or just
somebody's malicious scare tactic.  These hoax letters are actually
chain letters and passing them on is illegal! - Cecily

This is what Stiller Research says about this hysterical message:

"This is yet another silly virus warning hoax in the long line of virus
hoaxes started by the The "Good Times" virus hoax. There are many hoaxes
like this that warn you to avoid some email and then ask you to pass on
the warning. Whenever you see something in this pattern you can assume
this is a hoax. Please, please, NEVER forward any email that makes
requests (as this one does) to send the email to everyone; such an email
will never stop circulating."

This is what Symantic says:

"Virtual Card for You
                      Reported on: January 10, 2001
                      Last Updated on: January 23, 2002 at 09:42:52 AM
PST
Symantec Security Response encourages you to ignore any messages
regarding this hoax. It is harmless and is intended only to cause
unwarranted concern.
                     Type: Hoax
                     Description:
Numerous variants in several languages of this hoax have been
circulated. The Virtual Card for You is a hoax that should be ignored.
Several examples of these hoaxes are as follows:..."

Here is what HoaxBusters (CIAC and USDE) says:

"Virtual Card Hoax
March 2001
"Granted a real virus could delete sector 0 on your hard drive but this
isn't one of them. Also note that a knowledgeable person could put back
sector 0 of a hard drive and get back all your files. "

"Wayne R. Munro" wrote:

> PLEASE SEND THIS TO EVERYONE ON YOUR CONTACT LIST !! BY USING Bcc: to
> send right click ,select all,and paste to a new message!! A new virus
> has just been discovered that has been classified by Microsoft as the
> most destructive ever! This virus was discovered yesterday afternoon
> by McAfee and no vaccine has yet been developed. This virus simply
> <merciful snip>

--Boundary_(ID_BWT0p+D8XCv0aqWG/7wsuA)
Content-type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT

<!doctype html public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en">
<html>
<body bgcolor="#FFFFFF">
For goodness sakes, people - use some sense.&nbsp; When you get a hysterical
message about a virus you can bet it is s hoax.&nbsp; But if you want to
be certain, check the many sites that list the hoaxes before you do a Chicken
Licken and tell all your acquaintences that the sky is falling.
<p>Get into your browser, and click on the search button.&nbsp; Enter "virus
hoax".&nbsp; Any of the search engines will immediately bring up at least
10 reliable sites that can tell you if this is a real threat or just somebody's
malicious scare tactic.&nbsp; These hoax letters are actually chain letters
and passing them on is illegal! - Cecily
<p>This is what Stiller Research says about this hysterical message:
<p>"This is yet another silly virus warning hoax in the long line of virus
hoaxes started by the The "Good Times" virus hoax. There are many hoaxes
like this that warn you to avoid some email and then ask you to pass on
the warning. Whenever you see something in this pattern you can assume
this is a hoax. Please, please, NEVER forward any email that makes requests
(as this one does) to send the email to everyone; such an email will never
stop circulating."
<p>This is what Symantic says:
<p>"Virtual Card for You
<br>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
Reported on: January 10, 2001
<br>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
Last Updated on: January 23, 2002 at 09:42:52 AM PST
<br>Symantec Security Response encourages you to ignore any messages regarding
this hoax. It is harmless and is intended only to cause unwarranted concern.
<br>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
Type: Hoax
<br>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
Description:
<br>Numerous variants in several languages of this hoax have been circulated.
The Virtual Card for You is a hoax that should be ignored. Several examples
of these hoaxes are as follows:..."
<p>Here is what HoaxBusters (CIAC and USDE) says:
<p>"Virtual Card Hoax
<br>March 2001
<br>"Granted a real virus could delete sector 0 on your hard drive but
this isn't one of them. Also note that a knowledgeable person could put
back sector 0 of a hard drive and get back all your files. "
<p>"Wayne R. Munro" wrote:
<blockquote TYPE=CITE><style></style>
<font face="Arial"><font size=-1>PLEASE
SEND THIS TO EVERYONE ON YOUR CONTACT LIST !! BY USING Bcc: to send right
click ,select all,and paste to a new message!!</font></font>&nbsp;<font face="Arial"><font size=-1>A
new virus has just been discovered that has been classified by Microsoft
as the most destructive ever! This virus was discovered yesterday afternoon
by McAfee and no vaccine has yet been developed. This virus simply &lt;merciful
snip></font></font></blockquote>

</body>
</html>

--Boundary_(ID_BWT0p+D8XCv0aqWG/7wsuA)--
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From owner-glass Thu Mar 28 08:38:21 2002
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X-Path: doorpi.net!mmam5
From: mmam5@doorpi.net
To: cecnralph@comcast.net
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: Re: Virus Alert!! HOAX!!!!!
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 10:28:38 EST
Message-ID: <200203281528.g2SFSh096239@mail1.netacc.net>
Precedence: bulk

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dW5naS5jb20vZ2xhc3MNCg0KDQo=
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From owner-glass Thu Mar 28 14:47:45 2002
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X-Path: vrinter.net!suzy
From: Suzanne Albright <suzy@vrinter.net>
To: "glasslist, bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: For Bergju
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 16:54:16 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@vrinter.net>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>>
Precedence: bulk

As far as drawing your own break lines, my suggestion is to look at some
good patterns books for ideas. One of my favorites is "Allen Kenoyer Glass"
- they have three pattern books out and their way of breaking up the
backgrounds are excellent. Some good new ideas for you.

Also, another great book is Jennie French's "How to Design for Stained
Glass." I think it might be available from Dover Books in New York. She
gives quite a lot of good info on design.

I sympathize for your learning how to unsolder glass, it isn't fun, but
necessary to know. if you do glass for any length of time.

As far as your choice of bottom glass, anything that isn't so busy as the
top should be fine. Waterglass would be a nice choice.

Suzanne

on 3/22/02 5:01 PM, Bergju@aol.com at Bergju@aol.com wrote:

> (is that a word? lol)  i've been playing around making my own glass patterns
> pretty much, just making glass projects of pictures, like our hockey team's
> logo, a fairy, frog, etc.  i'm doing this rocking horse and with every picture
> i find i can't quite figure out where to put the breaks in the "background
> glass" where it looks good.  i undertand to follow natural lines if there are
> points coming out but like this rocking horse, its all pretty rounded except
> for the mane and tail, and most of that is rounded.  also, i am currently
> using (forget the name of the glass) a clear glass with blue swirls for the
> sky, looks good, but for the bottom part i was trying to go with a similar
> type of glass only brown.  got it all put together, soldered up, stared at it
> for several days and...yuk.  way too busy.  now i have to remove that glass
> and figure something else out for the bottom half (removing soldered glass:
> another new technique i get to learn!)  any suggestions?  maybe brown water
> glass for the lower section or----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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> 

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From owner-glass Thu Mar 28 17:22:46 2002
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Stephen Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Bergju@aol.com
Content-Type: text/plain;charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: bungi- question on respirators
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 22:38:28 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@verrier>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>>
Precedence: bulk

I don't use any.  Just good ventilation.

However, if you are worried, you need to protect yourself from fumes.
This is a more "heavy duty" product than a disposable mask.  It needs to
fit well, so that if you block the inlet valve, you cannot breathe.  It
needs to filter both particles (easy) and fumes.
        My respirator contains two filters - an external particle
filter, and an internal fume filter.  Consult your vendor for more
information on particle sizes and filters for the particular fumes.

Steve

In message <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>, Bergju@aol.com writes
>ok gang.  here's another newby question.  what type of respirator is
>recommended when working on fluxing/soldering.  the books i've read
>have not been very specific and i want to be safe about this without
>overkill.  thanks in advance.  you guys are great to share all this wealth of
>info i've gained from this list!
>
>jules
>----
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>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

-- 

Stephen Richard, Verrier
"Glass on Parade"
Glasgow, Scotland
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From owner-glass Thu Mar 28 19:21:55 2002
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	for rglass-42; Thu, 28 Mar 2002 18:52:44 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: iprimus.com.au!tony_christie
From: "Tony Christie" <tony_christie@iprimus.com.au>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE: NG Domain Hosting
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 11:09:18 +1000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@iprimus.com.au>
References: <<200203281427.g2SERt058976@mail1.netacc.net>>
Precedence: bulk

On Wed, 27 Mar 2002 15:47:22 -0500 Cecily & Ralph Wood wrote:
> So now it is time to consider getting my own domain name (no problem and
> cheap and easy) and, more important, getting a CHEAP (free?) but reliable
> host, because Comcast neither sells domain names (!?!) nor hosts them.
> This is not a web-based business, but I do want to have a few examples
> of work for people to see, and some other information.

Hi Cec,

having been through this process recently, I have done a fair bit of
research into this issue. Along the way I have heard a lot of good
comments about http://www.affordablehost.com. They tend to win in the
important areas of service, up-time and very helpful staff. Also the
price is very decent as well. I think you even get a free domain name
registration with a few of their plans. They are recommended constantly
in the alt.html and alt.www.webmaster newsgroups, which are full of
people who tend to know about these things.

I don't use them at the moment, I use http://www.httpme.com. But these
are strictly for multiple domain hosting. They also recommend
affordablehost.com for single domain.

Happy retirement!
Tony
--
Tony and Sharon Christie
Christie Kaleidoscopes
Narangba, QLD, Australia
Tel. (07) 3385 5562
Mob. 0421 348284
http://www.ckscopes.com

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From owner-glass Fri Mar 29 06:22:10 2002
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	for rglass-42; Fri, 29 Mar 2002 05:32:52 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: doorpi.net!mmam5
From: "Marci" <mmam5@doorpi.net>
To: "Dee T" <deethom@erols.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Virus Alert!! HOAX!!!!!
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 06:53:46 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@doorpi.net>
References: <<3.0.32.20020328170300.007a45e0@pop.erols.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Uhhhhhhh - --  I think maybe this would be called a 'computer glitch'!!!!
Sooorry! All I had written was that to check Virus Alerts and Hoaxes go to
the following list of websites. . .

www.symantec.com
www.mcafee.com
www.truthorfiction.com
www.urbanlegends.com

Marci


----- Original Message -----
From: "Dee T" <deethom@erols.com>
To: <mmam5@doorpi.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 28, 2002 4:03 PM
Subject: Re: Virus Alert!! HOAX!!!!!


> huh?
> At 10:28 AM 3/28/02 EST, you wrote:
> >VGhhbmtzIENlYyENCg0KQW5vdGhlciBwbGFjZSB0byBjaGVjayBpcyB3d3cuc3ltYW50ZWMu
> >Y29tLCB3d3cubWNhZmVlLmNvbSwNCnd3dy50cnV0aG9yZmljdGlvbi5jb20sIHd3dy51cmJh
> >bmxlZ2VuZC5jb20gIEFsbCBoYXZlIHRoZSBzdG9yaWVzIGJlaGluZA0KdGhlIGJlZ2lubmlu
>


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From owner-glass Fri Mar 29 12:07:16 2002
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X-Path: datasync.com!nts
From: Nancy Saucier <nts@datasync.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: cleaning finished panels
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 11:54:11 -0600
Message-ID: <3.0.3.32.20020329115411.00696674@mail.datasync.com>
Precedence: bulk

Just had a brainstorm!  I had already made my trip to WalMart today (or
else I would have bought one of these and could report the outcome) and
came home to finish waxing and polishing the piece I'm working on.  I
usually just use a soft rag to buff the wax off and a Q-tip for tight
places.  While working on this, I was thinking of Donna's and some of the
other's comments on this task.  I recently bought my husband and myself
each one of those new battery operated toothbrushes.  I think that might
work just fine!  I started to slip in the house and borrow my husband's to
try it out, but figured the lead/flux/patina/wax combo might do him in and
didn't want to end up in the slammer!!  Anyway, Crest makes one that sells
for about $5, runs on two AA batteries and the new ones are made so that
the head can be replaced when need be.  Next trip to the store I'll pick
one up and will let you know how it works.  Would still be a little tedious
on large jobs as the brush doesn't cover a very large area at a time, but
might save on a little elbow grease.
Nancy


I remember someone saying something about an electric shoe polisher to
wax/shine, FINISHED panels.  It would be very interested in hearing what the
options are.  I tried to find an "electric or battery powered portable shoe
polisher" but I couldn't find anything like that.  I used the polisher pad
on my dremmel, but it was worn out before a square foot of window was
polished.  Right now, I get the wax off and shine my panels using a soft
cloth and a toothbrush to get the wax out from around the solder lines.  It
takes forever!  I would just be afraid of bringing something as heavy duty
as a power drill attachment in contact with my project.  It's not the
shining it up that's the problem, it's brushing the wax out of the crevices
that's the issue - the toothbrush method just takes too long.  Something
between a dremel and a regular drill would be nice.  Is there such a thing?
If there's a BETTER way, I'd love to hear it.

Thank You!  Everytime I mention any glass related idea to my husband, he
always asks me if I got the idea from my "email buddies".
You all are great, and I really appreciate the time that you take out of
your busy lives to help me. 

Donna Becker
donna.becker@chicagoil.ncr.com



-----Original Message-----
From: Robert H. Peltz [mailto:rhpeltz@gte.net]
Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2002 11:54 AM


----
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From owner-glass Fri Mar 29 13:08:46 2002
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	for rglass-42; Fri, 29 Mar 2002 12:49:34 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: ns.sympatico.ca!heinze.g
From: "G Heinze" <heinze.g@ns.sympatico.ca>
To: "Nancy Saucier" <nts@datasync.com>,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: cleaning finished panels
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 16:45:38 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@ns.sympatico.ca>
References: <<3.0.3.32.20020329115411.00696674@mail.datasync.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Nancy, have you tried Turtle Wax Express Shine? Someone posted this tip some
time ago and I have converted to it totally for large panels. It has cut my
finishing time down to about 20 minutes for a large panel. Spray it on, wipe
it off, buff. It goes on clear and is MUCH easier than the glass polish. No
need for electric buffers. It doesn't collect in the grooves of textured
glass. Try it. ;-)

Gail in Nova Scotia


----- Original Message -----
From: "Nancy Saucier" <nts@datasync.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Friday, March 29, 2002 1:54 PM
Subject: cleaning finished panels


> Just had a brainstorm!  I had already made my trip to WalMart today (or
> else I would have bought one of these and could report the outcome) and
> came home to finish waxing and polishing the piece I'm working on.  I
> usually just use a soft rag to buff the wax off and a Q-tip for tight
> places.  While working on this, I was thinking of Donna's and some of the
> other's comments on this task.  I recently bought my husband and myself
> each one of those new battery operated toothbrushes.  I think that might
> work just fine!  I started to slip in the house and borrow my husband's to
> try it out, but figured the lead/flux/patina/wax combo might do him in and
> didn't want to end up in the slammer!!  Anyway, Crest makes one that sells
> for about $5, runs on two AA batteries and the new ones are made so that
> the head can be replaced when need be.  Next trip to the store I'll pick
> one up and will let you know how it works.  Would still be a little
tedious
> on large jobs as the brush doesn't cover a very large area at a time, but
> might save on a little elbow grease.
> Nancy
>
>
> I remember someone saying something about an electric shoe polisher to
> wax/shine, FINISHED panels.  It would be very interested in hearing what
the
> options are.  I tried to find an "electric or battery powered portable
shoe
> polisher" but I couldn't find anything like that.  I used the polisher pad
> on my dremmel, but it was worn out before a square foot of window was
> polished.  Right now, I get the wax off and shine my panels using a soft
> cloth and a toothbrush to get the wax out from around the solder lines.
It
> takes forever!  I would just be afraid of bringing something as heavy duty
> as a power drill attachment in contact with my project.  It's not the
> shining it up that's the problem, it's brushing the wax out of the
crevices
> that's the issue - the toothbrush method just takes too long.  Something
> between a dremel and a regular drill would be nice.  Is there such a
thing?
> If there's a BETTER way, I'd love to hear it.
>
> Thank You!  Everytime I mention any glass related idea to my husband, he
> always asks me if I got the idea from my "email buddies".
> You all are great, and I really appreciate the time that you take out of
> your busy lives to help me.
>
> Donna Becker
> donna.becker@chicagoil.ncr.com
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Robert H. Peltz [mailto:rhpeltz@gte.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2002 11:54 AM
>
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>

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From owner-glass Sat Mar 30 22:08:34 2002
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X-Path: yahoo.com!rejonesdvc
From: Bob Jones <rejonesdvc@yahoo.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Patterns
Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2002 20:39:15 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>
Precedence: bulk

I need patterns for panda bears and Disney characters.
 Does anyone have shared patterns of either, that they
can and are willing to send to me?  Also, does anyone
know the title of a pattern book for Disney
characters?

Thanks in advance

Bob


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From owner-glass Sun Mar 31 05:22:16 2002
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From: Stephen Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Bob Jones <rejonesdvc@yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Patterns
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 09:06:15 +0100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@verrier>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Bob,
        Disney protect their copyright vigorously. Any discovered use
seems to be prosecuted.  Be careful.
Steve

In message <1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>, Bob Jones <rejonesdvc@yahoo.com>
writes
>I need patterns for panda bears and Disney characters.
> Does anyone have shared patterns of either, that they
>can and are willing to send to me?  Also, does anyone
>know the title of a pattern book for Disney
>characters?
>
>Thanks in advance
>
>Bob
>
>
>__________________________________________________
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>Yahoo! Greetings - send holiday greetings for Easter, Passover
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-- 

Stephen Richard, Verrier
"Glass on Parade"
Glasgow, Scotland
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From owner-glass Sun Mar 31 08:52:07 2002
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X-Path: nep.net!alva
From: "melissa/adam" <alva@nep.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: Looking for patterns
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 10:32:59 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@nep.net>
Precedence: bulk

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_000F_01C1D89F.6DCC74C0
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hi  everyone,  My husband is straight from Poland,(broken english and =
all) and we wanted to do a piece with the Polish Falcon and the American =
Eagle together along with the American flag in the background.  My =
question is does anyone have any good patterns of an Eagle that they =
wouldn't mind sharing with me????? I have found a couple, but they are =
not a nice pattern what so ever.
     If it turns out well he would like to send one to Poland.  If =
anyone has Eagle patterns they wouldn't mind sharing, I would greatley =
appreciate it.
                    Thank You, Melissa

------=_NextPart_000_000F_01C1D89F.6DCC74C0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3500" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Hi&nbsp; everyone,&nbsp; My husband is =
straight=20
from Poland,(broken english and all) and we wanted to do a piece with =
the Polish=20
Falcon and the American Eagle together along with the American flag in =
the=20
background.&nbsp; My question is does anyone have any good patterns =
of&nbsp;an=20
Eagle that they wouldn't mind sharing with me????? I have found a =
couple, but=20
they are not a nice pattern what so ever.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; If it turns =
out well he=20
would like to send one to Poland.&nbsp; If anyone has Eagle patterns =
they=20
wouldn't mind sharing, I would greatle</FONT><FONT face=3DArial=20
size=3D2>y&nbsp;appreciate it.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial=20
size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbs=
p;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
Thank You, Melissa</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_000F_01C1D89F.6DCC74C0--

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From owner-glass Sun Mar 31 09:52:03 2002
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	for rglass-42; Sun, 31 Mar 2002 09:08:23 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: aol.com!CncptThnkr
From: CncptThnkr@aol.com
To: alva@nep.net, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: Looking for patterns - eagles
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 11:57:50 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>
Precedence: bulk

Melissa,

Check out Delphi's www site.  www.delphiglass.com   Click on free patterns, 
then on patriotic.  There are two eagles.  

Pat
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From owner-glass Sun Mar 31 13:49:08 2002
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	for rglass-42; Sun, 31 Mar 2002 13:40:20 -0800 (PST)
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X-Path: doorpi.net!mmam5
From: "Marci" <mmam5@doorpi.net>
To: "melissa/adam" <alva@nep.net>, <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Looking for patterns
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 14:56:23 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@doorpi.net>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@nep.net>>
Precedence: bulk

Hi Melissa - -

Here's a message I received earlier this week - I'm sure Lori won't mind my
sharing - - there are some really nice eagle/flag designs on the gallery:
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Hi again,

On my web site I have an art gallery with many pieces honoring September 11.
Just look for the American section,  some are quite spectacular.

Thank you,
Lori Mitchell
Chief Executive Officer
Glastar Corporation
www.glastar.com
~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Marci

----- Original Message -----
From: "melissa/adam" <alva@nep.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 31, 2002 9:32 AM
Subject: Looking for patterns


> This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
>
> ------=_NextPart_000_000F_01C1D89F.6DCC74C0
> Content-Type: text/plain;
> charset="iso-8859-1"
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
>
> Hi  everyone,  My husband is straight from Poland,(broken english and =
> all) and we wanted to do a piece with the Polish Falcon and the American =
> Eagle together along with the American flag in the background.  My =
> question is does anyone have any good patterns of an Eagle that they =
> wouldn't mind sharing with me????? I have found a couple, but they are =
> not a nice pattern what so ever.
>      If it turns out well he would like to send one to Poland.  If =
> anyone has Eagle patterns they wouldn't mind sharing, I would greatley =
> appreciate it.
>                     Thank You, Melissa
>
> ------=_NextPart_000_000F_01C1D89F.6DCC74C0
> Content-Type: text/html;
> charset="iso-8859-1"
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
>
> <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
> <HTML><HEAD>
> <META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
> http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
> <META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3500" name=3DGENERATOR>
> <STYLE></STYLE>
> </HEAD>
> <BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Hi&nbsp; everyone,&nbsp; My husband is =
> straight=20
> from Poland,(broken english and all) and we wanted to do a piece with =
> the Polish=20
> Falcon and the American Eagle together along with the American flag in =
> the=20
> background.&nbsp; My question is does anyone have any good patterns =
> of&nbsp;an=20
> Eagle that they wouldn't mind sharing with me????? I have found a =
> couple, but=20
> they are not a nice pattern what so ever.</FONT></DIV>
> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; If it turns =
> out well he=20
> would like to send one to Poland.&nbsp; If anyone has Eagle patterns =
> they=20
> wouldn't mind sharing, I would greatle</FONT><FONT face=3DArial=20
> size=3D2>y&nbsp;appreciate it.</FONT></DIV>
> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial=20
> size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbs=
> p;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
> Thank You, Melissa</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
>
> ------=_NextPart_000_000F_01C1D89F.6DCC74C0--
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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>


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From owner-glass Sun Mar 31 18:22:21 2002
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X-Path: yahoo.com!sparkylynne
From: Lynne Black <sparkylynne@yahoo.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: working with bevels
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 17:32:17 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>
Precedence: bulk

Is it necessary to grind the edges of bevels before
putting on the copper foil?  

Thanks.
Lynne

__________________________________________________
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From owner-glass Sun Mar 31 21:06:47 2002
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From: "" <NETAJANS1@WEBBEE.COM.TR>
To: "REHBER-A" <NETAJANS1@WEBBEE.COM.TR>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: 10.100.000 E-MaiLe BeDaVa ReKLaM FiRSaTi! 
Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 05:53:04 +0300
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   Sayin Internet Kullanicisi

   D=FCnyada ve g=FCn=FCm=FCz T=FCrkiye'sinde internet araciligiylayla rek=
lam ve tanitimlarini yapan  firmalarin sayisi hizla artmaktadir=2E Butceni=
zin cok kucuk bir kismini E-Reklama ayirarak sizlerin  de bu firmalar aras=
inda yer almanizi oneriyoruz=2E

   Cok dusuk bir giderle,cok yuksek bir gelir elde edeceginizden emin olab=
ilirsiniz=2E
Amaciniz, internette gezinirken harcadiginiz zamani size gelir saglayacak =
bir sekle donusturmek,  ya da internetin kazanc firsatlarindan faydalanmak=
sa, sundugumuz hizmet sizin icin bir alternatif  olabilir=2E

   Bizim sundugumuz hizmetin fiyatlari asagidaki gibidir=2E=20

 EMail-Bank (v1=2E0): Icinde 1=2E500=2E000 Yerli Internet Kullanicisinin E=
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 NOT: Kur sabit olup 1 USD=3D 1=2E350=2E000 TL=2E' dir ( Bu uygulama 30 Ni=
san 2002 tarihine kadar  gecerlidir )

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esinde;bu adreslere cok  seri olarak gondereceginiz urun ve hizmetlerinize=
 ait reklam / tanitim iletileri sayesinde  simdilik en az 1=2E500=2E000 (B=
ir Milyon Bes Yuz Bin ) , en fazla 10=2E100=2E000 (On Milyon Yuz Bin )  ye=
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   Bu teknik ile dilediginiz zaman,dilediginiz kadar ustelik hicbir ucret =
odemeden yapacaginiz  reklam/tanitimin kapsam ve etkinligini Gazete, Dergi=
,Radyo ve Televizyon araciligiyla yaptiginiz  / yapacaginiz reklam / tanit=
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1-En fazla sayida insana ulasabilmek
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From owner-glass Sun Mar 31 21:52:09 2002
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X-Path: inreach.com!sheri1
From: "Bobbe's Bookshelf" <sheri1@inreach.com>
To: "Bob Jones" <rejonesdvc@yahoo.com>,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Patterns
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 20:17:21 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@inreach.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>>
Precedence: bulk

GlasDesign has a folder of Disney characters which has 40 designs.  I have
had these patterns for some time, you may have to search for them.  The
folder is titled -Mickey and Friends.  These patterns have a Disney
copyright.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Jones" <rejonesdvc@yahoo.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 30, 2002 8:39 PM
Subject: Patterns


> I need patterns for panda bears and Disney characters.
>  Does anyone have shared patterns of either, that they
> can and are willing to send to me?  Also, does anyone
> know the title of a pattern book for Disney
> characters?
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Bob
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Greetings - send holiday greetings for Easter, Passover
> http://greetings.yahoo.com/
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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>

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