From owner-glass Fri Feb  1 01:01:03 2002
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From: Darlene Hendler <henco@shaw.ca>
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: panel prices
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 17:58:46 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@shaw.ca>
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Hi
Just a word of thanks to everyone who helped me out with the panel
pricing.
It's great to have people who are so knowledgeable.
Thanks,
Darlene

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From owner-glass Fri Feb  1 03:00:31 2002
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: "To:" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: catching up
Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2002 01:46:18 -0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@northlights.co.uk>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Although I'm lurking, I'm still very much with you all.
I have re-vamped totally my web-site. I'm hoping to get more control of it
for myself, which might mean I have to learn how to write html. Arrrggghhhh!
Anyhow. please visit, have a look and give me a feed-back. New website
address is www.northlights.co.uk
A couple of years on, am also hoping tp connect up to the web-site Pamela
created.....
Oh, yes! Meric Monterey - YOUR "godson"  on 4 legs also features. He is a
very lovable rogue. HUGE!! A total bumble. I have completed panel No. 2 of
the waterscape theme - so,  only another 5 to go.... Also featured on my
web-site.). My house is gradually getting back together after the fire last
summer.  It was horrendeous. Insurance structural work  probably run into
about USD.100,000. Non-insurance work/replacement about half that amount.

Am planning a trip to Glasgow (Charles Mackintosh etc) early this summer.
Anyone interested???? Hope to get something more formal underway during the
next few weeks.
Have picked up bits and pieces from most of you (I hope). I think we are
well pleased that 2001 is behind us and that we are looking forward to a
better 2002.

Take care now.
Elisabeth 'n Toby in uk










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From owner-glass Fri Feb  1 04:00:33 2002
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X-Path: comcast.net!cecnralph
From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@comcast.net>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type=54455854;
Subject: Re: Insulated glass
Date: Fri, 01 Feb 2002 00:34:18 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>>
Organization: Grendel Studio
Precedence: bulk

When building an insulated window (stained glass sandwich, as it were), I was
told that the layers were vacuum sealed.  Not so?  - Curious Cec

ARTIZ01@aol.com wrote:

> Hello,
>
> Regarding your questions of insulating stained glass.  We do this everyday at
> our shop.  We use 2 pieces of  anneal, low-e or tempered glass and sandwich
> the art glass inside.  If we are using art glass in a door, sidelights,
> transom,  it must be tempered it could be tempered and low e.
> The channel  we usually use when we build the stained glass is  a Y channel,
> or a U  channel. This you can get at any stained glass supplier.  Although we
> do our own insulating here, I would suggest you check with a window
> manufacturer they will usually insulate this for you.  (example of cost  22 x
> 64 art glass using 2 pieces of tempered glass- $ 50-60 (for the tempered 2
> pieces of  glass) and $ 75.00 to insulate it.  The thickness depends-----
> could be 5/8  to 1"  Keep in mind when you build the art piece if you are
> using big bevels or jewels you will need it at least 1".
> The low-E glass goes on the outside only.
> I hope this has been helpful
>
> Bob,
> Window & Door Art Glass Specialties Inc.
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

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From owner-glass Fri Feb  1 05:23:34 2002
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From: Roxie1824@aol.com
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Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_9a.205a2892.298beada_boundary"
Subject: Re: panel prices
Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2002 07:58:02 EST
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Is there any way that people can respond to the entire group when a question 
like this is posted?  I would have been interested in the responses also...

Loretta
Michigan

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  COLOR="#8000ff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SCRIPT" FACE="Comic Sans MS" LANG="0">Is there any way that people can respond to the entire group when a question like this is posted? &nbsp;I would have been interested in the responses also...
<BR>
<BR>Loretta
<BR>Michigan</FONT></HTML>

--part1_9a.205a2892.298beada_boundary--
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From owner-glass Fri Feb  1 05:55:47 2002
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X-Path: cox.net!gunnx4
From: "Suzanne Gunn" <gunnx4@cox.net>
To: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>,
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: Re: catching up
Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2002 07:43:14 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@cox.net>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@northlights.co.uk>>
Organization: glsasdancer
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C1AAF4.1B447D20
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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Hi Elisabeth!!

Your site looks great...although I don't have to time to go over the =
entire site right now, what I've seen is beautiful.

Well done.

Man, Meric has GROWN!!!!!

Suzanne (notice my new email address)


  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Toby=20
  To: To:=20
  Sent: Thursday, January 31, 2002 7:46 PM
  Subject: catching up


  Although I'm lurking, I'm still very much with you all.
  I have re-vamped totally my web-site. I'm hoping to get more control =
of it
  for myself, which might mean I have to learn how to write html. =
Arrrggghhhh!
  Anyhow. please visit, have a look and give me a feed-back. New website
  address is www.northlights.co.uk
  A couple of years on, am also hoping tp connect up to the web-site =
Pamela
  created.....
  Oh, yes! Meric Monterey - YOUR "godson"  on 4 legs also features. He =
is a
  very lovable rogue. HUGE!! A total bumble. I have completed panel No. =
2 of
  the waterscape theme - so,  only another 5 to go.... Also featured on =
my
  web-site.). My house is gradually getting back together after the fire =
last
  summer.  It was horrendeous. Insurance structural work  probably run =
into
  about USD.100,000. Non-insurance work/replacement about half that =
amount.

  Am planning a trip to Glasgow (Charles Mackintosh etc) early this =
summer.
  Anyone interested???? Hope to get something more formal underway =
during the
  next few weeks.
  Have picked up bits and pieces from most of you (I hope). I think we =
are
  well pleased that 2001 is behind us and that we are looking forward to =
a
  better 2002.

  Take care now.
  Elisabeth 'n Toby in uk










  ----
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  Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C1AAF4.1B447D20
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4807.2300" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Hi Elisabeth!!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Your site looks great...although I =
don't have to=20
time to go over the entire site right now, what I've seen is=20
beautiful.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Well done.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Man, Meric has GROWN!!!!!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Suzanne (notice my new email =
address)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A title=3Dtoby@northlights.co.uk =
href=3D"mailto:toby@northlights.co.uk">Toby</A>=20
  </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=3Dglass@bungi.com=20
  href=3D"mailto:glass@bungi.com">To:</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Thursday, January 31, =
2002 7:46=20
  PM</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> catching up</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV>Although I'm lurking, I'm still very much with you =
all.<BR>I=20
  have re-vamped totally my web-site. I'm hoping to get more control of=20
  it<BR>for myself, which might mean I have to learn how to write html.=20
  Arrrggghhhh!<BR>Anyhow. please visit, have a look and give me a =
feed-back. New=20
  website<BR>address is <A=20
  href=3D"http://www.northlights.co.uk">www.northlights.co.uk</A><BR>A =
couple of=20
  years on, am also hoping tp connect up to the web-site=20
  Pamela<BR>created.....<BR>Oh, yes! Meric Monterey - YOUR =
"godson"&nbsp; on 4=20
  legs also features. He is a<BR>very lovable rogue. HUGE!! A total =
bumble. I=20
  have completed panel No. 2 of<BR>the waterscape theme - so,&nbsp; only =
another=20
  5 to go.... Also featured on my<BR>web-site.). My house is gradually =
getting=20
  back together after the fire last<BR>summer.&nbsp; It was horrendeous. =

  Insurance structural work&nbsp; probably run into<BR>about =
USD.100,000.=20
  Non-insurance work/replacement about half that amount.<BR><BR>Am =
planning a=20
  trip to Glasgow (Charles Mackintosh etc) early this summer.<BR>Anyone=20
  interested???? Hope to get something more formal underway during =
the<BR>next=20
  few weeks.<BR>Have picked up bits and pieces from most of you (I =
hope). I=20
  think we are<BR>well pleased that 2001 is behind us and that we are =
looking=20
  forward to a<BR>better 2002.<BR><BR>Take care now.<BR>Elisabeth 'n =
Toby in=20
  uk<BR><BR><BR><BR><BR><BR><BR><BR><BR><BR><BR>----<BR>For subscription =

  changes, please mail to: <A=20
  =
href=3D"mailto:glass-request@bungi.com">glass-request@bungi.com</A><BR>To=
 send=20
  to the list,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; please mail to: <A=20
  href=3D"mailto:glass@bungi.com">glass@bungi.com</A><BR>Archives =
available at <A=20
  =
href=3D"http://www.bungi.com/glass">http://www.bungi.com/glass</A></BLOCK=
QUOTE></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C1AAF4.1B447D20--

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From owner-glass Fri Feb  1 06:30:40 2002
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X-Path: comcast.net!cecnralph
From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@comcast.net>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type=54455854;
Subject: NG  Enough EXCITEment
Date: Fri, 01 Feb 2002 00:35:46 -0500
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Organization: Grendel Studio
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My email address has finally changed tonight:

cecnralph@comcast.net

Cecily

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From owner-glass Fri Feb  1 06:55:43 2002
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X-Path: look.ca!mfig
From: "Mike Figgy" <mfig@look.ca>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: website
Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2002 08:44:41 -0500
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Thought I'd let the group know that our website is now up and running. I =
like to think that it's not just a 'plug' site but a worthwhile =
resource- aside from the usual, it includes technical articles and a =
bunch of free patterns. Peruse at your leisure (it's over 40 pages) with =
tongue partially inserted in cheek.

------=_NextPart_000_0036_01C1AAFC.B074A700
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dwindows-1252">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2600.0" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Thought I'd let the group know that our website is =
now up and=20
running. I like to think that it's not just a 'plug' site but a =
worthwhile=20
resource- aside from the usual, it includes technical articles and a =
bunch of=20
free patterns. Peruse at your leisure (it's over 40 pages) with tongue =
partially=20
inserted in cheek.</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-glass Fri Feb  1 07:30:44 2002
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X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Looking for wire mesh
Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2002 09:47:06 -0500
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Message text written by "Byron Wells"
>I'm looking for a nice wire mesh/screen (yes I know it's not glass)  I =3D=

have a regular customer that wants some of that in a wine cabinet door =3D=

instead of the usual Antique/seedy etc glass I usually put in...<

Uh?  Chicken wire comes in various "designs" and can be purchased
at a hardware store.  Is that what you're looking for?

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
Denton, TX
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From owner-glass Fri Feb  1 08:31:01 2002
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	for rglass-42; Fri, 1 Feb 2002 08:16:56 -0800 (PST)
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X-Path: pobox.com!nadinesfolly
From: "Nadine Beth Schneider" <nadinesfolly@POBox.com>
To: "Mike Figgy" <mfig@look.ca>,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE: website
Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2002 11:16:32 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@POBox.com>
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what's the url?

Nadine Beth Schneider
Nadine's Folly, Ltd
www.nadinesfolly.com


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From owner-glass Fri Feb  1 08:33:33 2002
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Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2002 10:22:36 -0500
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...the website is www.fantasyinglass.com!

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dwindows-1252">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2600.0" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>...the website is=20
www.fantasyinglass.com!</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-glass Fri Feb  1 09:05:16 2002
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X-Path: pobox.com!nadinesfolly
From: "Nadine Beth Schneider" <nadinesfolly@POBox.com>
To: "Mike Figgy" <mfig@look.ca>,
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Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2002 11:59:25 -0500
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Looks great, loads quickly and is
really easy to get around!

Nadine

Nadine Beth Schneider
Nadine's Folly, Ltd
www.nadinesfolly.com


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From owner-glass Fri Feb  1 09:41:17 2002
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X-Path: attbi.com!byronw26
From: "Byron Wells" <byronw26@attbi.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Insulated glass
Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2002 07:50:29 -0600
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Precedence: bulk

Actually I think nowdays the flat glassers just put silica gel in t hem
somehow... I GOTTA find more info on this...Guess I'll go pester the local
place that builds to order for a lot of the window replacement companies...

Thanks to all that replied!

Byron...
Wells Glassworks

----- Original Message -----
From: "Cecily & Ralph Wood" <cecnralph@comcast.net>
To: "Bungi Glass" <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 31, 2002 11:34 PM
Subject: Re: Insulated glass


> When building an insulated window (stained glass sandwich, as it were), I
was
> told that the layers were vacuum sealed.  Not so?  - Curious Cec
>
> ARTIZ01@aol.com wrote:
>
> > Hello,
> >
> > Regarding your questions of insulating stained glass.  We do this
everyday at
> > our shop.  We use 2 pieces of  anneal, low-e or tempered glass and
sandwich
> > the art glass inside.  If we are using art glass in a door, sidelights,
> > transom,  it must be tempered it could be tempered and low e.
> > The channel  we usually use when we build the stained glass is  a Y
channel,
> > or a U  channel. This you can get at any stained glass supplier.
Although we
> > do our own insulating here, I would suggest you check with a window
> > manufacturer they will usually insulate this for you.  (example of cost
22 x
> > 64 art glass using 2 pieces of tempered glass- $ 50-60 (for the tempered
2
> > pieces of  glass) and $ 75.00 to insulate it.  The thickness
depends-----
> > could be 5/8  to 1"  Keep in mind when you build the art piece if you
are
> > using big bevels or jewels you will need it at least 1".
> > The low-E glass goes on the outside only.
> > I hope this has been helpful
> >
> > Bob,
> > Window & Door Art Glass Specialties Inc.
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
> ----
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From owner-glass Fri Feb  1 09:42:33 2002
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X-Path: attbi.com!byronw26
From: "Byron Wells" <byronw26@attbi.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Looking for wire mesh
Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2002 07:45:10 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@attbi.com>
References: <<3C59F22A.580F14C5@earthlink.net>>
Precedence: bulk

Hey Gerry...

What I'm looking for is brass or bronze probably diamond pattern woven mesh
or grille... Looks like chicken wire sort of... I did find 1 place after
many hours of searching last night but they get like 7-10 per square foot
for it... Looks like this might be something I can use now and then and
would rather buy a whole roll or something wholesale ...
Byron...
Wells Glassworks

----- Original Message -----
From: "Gerry Phibbs" <glasscutter@earthlink.net>
To: "Byron Wells" <byronw26@attbi.com>; <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 31, 2002 7:41 PM
Subject: Re: Looking for wire mesh


> Hi Byron..
>   What exactly are you looking for?  There are various perforated
> aluminum sheets that have various sized and shaped holes, that might
> work - some aluminum suppliers carry them.  There are also other more
> "exotic" sorts of screen.  One of the more interesting is a bronze mesh
> screen - it looks very much like regular window screening, but it's made
> of bronze, so it has a nice gold sort of tone to it.  It's not cheap,
> but it's not outrageous either.  I know, my store stocks the stuff (and
> some of the patterned perforated aluminum sheets), and we install it in
> customers' window screens where their home is near the ocean.  Salt air
> takes a fast toll on regular aluminum screen, and the fiberglass screen
> just doesn't seem to hold up all that well to the sunlight.
>   Peace  -Gerry
>

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From owner-glass Sun Feb  3 20:12:54 2002
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X-Path: sympatico.ca!snooker1
From: "Millar" <snooker1@sympatico.ca>
To: "'Cecily & Ralph Wood'" <cecnralph@comcast.net>,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE: Hello
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2002 22:46:20 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@sympatico.ca>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net>>
Precedence: bulk

Chap stick does the same. Cost a buck,last forever and is easy to use and
clean off

Ted

-----Original Message-----
From: Cecily & Ralph Wood [mailto:cecnralph@comcast.net]
Sent: Friday, February 01, 2002 12:23 AM
To: Bungi Glass
Subject: Re: Hello


Don't waste money on Mark Stay.. Buy a tube of Vasoline (petroleum jelly).
Does the same thing and it's cheaper and easier to use.  Mark Stay has bee's
wax and is just too hard. - Cec

Marci wrote:

> Hi Frank!
>
> Welcome to the group. I usually clean up my glass to get the dust and
finger
> prints off. I've gotten into the habit of just drawing the pattern onto
the
> glass. Some jell pens work OK.  But I have the best luck with gold/silver
> metallic markers - slim or fine tip. They usually cost a bit more, but the
> pattern stays on well even thru grinding.  I just recently came across
some
> cool stuff called Mark Stay (http://www.stainedglasswarehouse.com/),
> professional mark perserver.  You can use a felt tip marker for making
your
> pattern then apply a thin film of Mark Stay with your finger. It will keep
> the pattern visible thru the grinding process. It washes off with soap and
> water.
>
> If you can get a light box (or make one) then you can trace the pattern
thru
> just about any glass.
>
> Good Luck!
>
> Marci
> Martin Designs
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Francis R. Vesey" <frvesey@mediaone.net>
> To: "FUN - Stained Glass Forum" <glass@bungi.com>
> Sent: Friday, January 11, 2002 11:39 AM
> Subject: Hello
>
> > Hello Everyone,
> >
> > I am new to your list and returning to Stained Glass after several years
> of
> > absense.
> >
> > I have a few questions.
> > What is the best way to prepare your glass for cutting?
> > Do you cut a pattern and draw the design on the glass?
> > OR
> > Do you trace the design with a pattern under the glass?
> >
> > If you draw the design on the glass. What kind of pen do you use?
> >
> > Last question. Has anyone used the Toyo Tap Wheel Cutter? And what was
> your
> > experience like?
> >
> > Thanks in advance.
> >
> > Frank
> >
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> >
>
> ----
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> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

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From owner-glass Sun Feb  3 22:58:44 2002
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From: CncptThnkr@aol.com
To: <snooker1@sympatico.ca>, <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: RE: Hello (chap stick/vasoline/mark stay) subject line
Date: Sun, 03 Feb 2002 23:19:19 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>
Precedence: bulk

Ted, Cec, Marci and all,

Favor please.  

It would really help everyone if you would change the subject of your responses to what you are responding to if the original had a vague subject line.

Thanks very much.

Pat
In a message dated Sun, 3 Feb 2002 11:13:42 PM Eastern Standard Time, "Millar" <snooker1@sympatico.ca> writes:

> Chap stick does the same. Cost a buck,last forever and is easy to use and
> clean off
> 
> Ted
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Cecily & Ralph Wood [mailto:cecnralph@comcast.net]
> Sent: Friday, February 01, 2002 12:23 AM
> To: Bungi Glass
> Subject: Re: Hello
> 
> 
> Don't waste money on Mark Stay.. Buy a tube of Vasoline (petroleum jelly).
> Does the same thing and it's cheaper and easier to use.  Mark Stay has bee's
> wax and is just too hard. - Cec
> 
> Marci wrote:
> 
> > Hi Frank!
> >
> > Welcome to the group. I usually clean up my glass to get the dust and
> finger
> > prints off. I've gotten into the habit of just drawing the pattern onto
> the
> > glass. Some jell pens work OK.  But I have the best luck with gold/silver
> > metallic markers - slim or fine tip. They usually cost a bit more, but the
> > pattern stays on well even thru grinding.  I just recently came across
> some
> > cool stuff called Mark Stay (http://www.stainedglasswarehouse.com/),
> > professional mark perserver.  You can use a felt tip marker for making
> your
> > pattern then apply a thin film of Mark Stay with your finger. It will keep
> > the pattern visible thru the grinding process. It washes off with soap and
> > water.
> >
> > If you can get a light box (or make one) then you can trace the pattern
> thru
> > just about any glass.
> >
> > Good Luck!
> >
> > Marci
> > Martin Designs
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Francis R. Vesey" <frvesey@mediaone.net>
> > To: "FUN - Stained Glass Forum" <glass@bungi.com>
> > Sent: Friday, January 11, 2002 11:39 AM
> > Subject: Hello
> >
> > > Hello Everyone,
> > >
> > > I am new to your list and returning to Stained Glass after several years
> > of
> > > absense.
> > >
> > > I have a few questions.
> > > What is the best way to prepare your glass for cutting?
> > > Do you cut a pattern and draw the design on the glass?
> > > OR
> > > Do you trace the design with a pattern under the glass?
> > >
> > > If you draw the design on the glass. What kind of pen do you use?
> > >
> > > Last question. Has anyone used the Toyo Tap Wheel Cutter? And what was
> > your
> > > experience like?
> > >
> > > Thanks in advance.
> > >
> > > Frank
> > >
> > > ----
> > > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> > >
> >
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


----
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From owner-glass Wed Feb  6 21:01:58 2002
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From: "Frank Mizzi" <frankgmizzi@hotmail.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
Subject: Advice about a grinder
Date: Thu, 07 Feb 2002 04:05:43 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@hotmail.com>
Precedence: bulk

Greetings,

I am getting back into stained glass after quite some time and have to set 
up yet again from scratch.

I need to get myself a grinder.  In the past I have used a Wizard and had no 
compliants whatsoever, but since I am buying again I want to put a bit more 
thought into it.  I envisage that I will be using it for all sorts of pieces 
so I have thoght of one with a grinding bit AND a flat disk.  Any comments 
on this type of grinder?  I do not want to send more than about US200.

Also I am in Australia so the items for sale here may not be a varied and/or 
readily availableover here as in the US.

Can anybody help with advice on the "best" grinder they have used in their 
own opinion.

Thanks
FGM

_________________________________________________________________
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From owner-glass Thu Feb  7 19:08:19 2002
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X-Path: cornell.edu!bjs10
From: bjs10@cornell.edu
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Advice about a grinder (fwd)
Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2002 09:38:14 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@cornell.edu>
Precedence: bulk

You can increase the number of your choices in grinders by shopping 
online too.... there are several good suppliers that have catalogs online 
for you to brouse.  I think you can get a good grinder within your budget.

Barbara S.

---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Thu, 07 Feb 2002 04:05:43 +0000
From: Frank Mizzi <frankgmizzi@hotmail.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Advice about a grinder

Greetings,

I am getting back into stained glass after quite some time and have to set 
up yet again from scratch.

I need to get myself a grinder.  In the past I have used a Wizard and had no 
compliants whatsoever, but since I am buying again I want to put a bit more 
thought into it.  I envisage that I will be using it for all sorts of pieces 
so I have thoght of one with a grinding bit AND a flat disk.  Any comments 
on this type of grinder?  I do not want to send more than about US200.

Also I am in Australia so the items for sale here may not be a varied and/or 
readily availableover here as in the US.

Can anybody help with advice on the "best" grinder they have used in their 
own opinion.

Thanks
FGM

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From owner-glass Fri Feb  8 01:17:40 2002
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X-Path: home.com!esavad
From: "Mike Savad" <esavad@home.com>
To: "Frank Mizzi" <frankgmizzi@hotmail.com>,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE: Advice about a grinder
Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2002 09:02:45 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@hotmail.com>>
Precedence: bulk


the twin spin has all those features. 5" disk, with space for a hole cutter.
or that can be removed and it becomes a small basic grinder. the tops remove
for easy cleaning. the only cons are, is that the switch placement is bad,
and i have gotten zapped a few times. and the touch top surface gums up too
fast to use. or atleast that was the complaint. i never used it that way.


---Mike Savad


-----Original Message-----
From: Frank Mizzi [mailto:frankgmizzi@hotmail.com]
Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2002 11:06 PM
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Advice about a grinder


Greetings,

I am getting back into stained glass after quite some time and have to set
up yet again from scratch.

I need to get myself a grinder.  In the past I have used a Wizard and had no
compliants whatsoever, but since I am buying again I want to put a bit more
thought into it.  I envisage that I will be using it for all sorts of pieces
so I have thoght of one with a grinding bit AND a flat disk.  Any comments
on this type of grinder?  I do not want to send more than about US200.

Also I am in Australia so the items for sale here may not be a varied and/or
readily availableover here as in the US.

Can anybody help with advice on the "best" grinder they have used in their
own opinion.

Thanks
FGM

_________________________________________________________________
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From owner-glass Fri Feb  8 13:09:30 2002
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From: "Byron Wells" <byronw26@attbi.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Advice about a grinder
Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2002 20:30:38 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@attbi.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@hotmail.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Hi Frank...

I've always had great luck with Glastar equipment...  I have 2 All Stars and
a supertar II in the shop... I also have several or their beveling and
polishing machines... Never had a bit of grief out of any of them... I dont
know if Glastar makes a combo unit tho with a disc grinder... I CAN tell you
that the Inland Twin Spin isn't worth buying.... I have one and its fine for
a regular grinder but the flat discs are terrible... Perhaps the Bevelmax
might be what your looking for...

Byron...
Wells Glassworks

----- Original Message -----
From: "Frank Mizzi" <frankgmizzi@hotmail.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2002 10:05 PM
Subject: Advice about a grinder


> Greetings,
>
> I am getting back into stained glass after quite some time and have to set
> up yet again from scratch.
>
> I need to get myself a grinder.  In the past I have used a Wizard and had
no
> compliants whatsoever, but since I am buying again I want to put a bit
more
> thought into it.  I envisage that I will be using it for all sorts of
pieces
> so I have thoght of one with a grinding bit AND a flat disk.  Any comments
> on this type of grinder?  I do not want to send more than about US200.
>
> Also I am in Australia so the items for sale here may not be a varied
and/or
> readily availableover here as in the US.
>
> Can anybody help with advice on the "best" grinder they have used in their
> own opinion.
>
> Thanks
> FGM
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
>
> ----
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>

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From owner-glass Sun Feb 10 17:39:11 2002
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From: UserDusty@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: Pistol Grip Cutter
Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 18:23:39 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>
Precedence: bulk

Hi All,

There were some postings a while ago concerning the leaky pistol grip 
cutters.  Well, from the labs at Decorative Glass there is a fix.  Well, it 
worked with mine anyhow. The screw cap on the back has a large flat surface 
and some really loose threads.  I took the rubber gasket off and wrapped the 
screw cap with some 1/2 inch Teflon tape.  That is the tape you wrap the 
threads with on gas lines with.  From the back of the thumb screw I went 
around the threads twice.  Then smoothed the tape to the threads.  I put the 
rubber gasket back on and filled it up about a 3/4 froths of the way full.  I 
tightened the screw up and it has been laying on my light box on its side for 
about a week without leaking.  If you have a problem with the cutter not 
supplying oil just burp the cutter to let in a little air.  That's taking the 
screw almost out and pressing on the cutter head until the oil starts to 
flow. This has taken care of my oil filled tool box.  

Take care all,
Your friend in glass

Ken O.
Decorative Glass
 

 
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From owner-glass Sun Feb 10 20:24:23 2002
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From: "Sarah" <arasai@woh.rr.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Need Help
Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 14:19:57 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@woh.rr.com>
Precedence: bulk

Hi to all, I am trying to identify a piece of glass from a repair I am
working on. The broken glass is white on the backside, and clear on the
front side. It's smooth in texture, and if viewed from the side, it appears
that the clear glass is slightly thicker than the white glass, but the
overall piece is no thicker than 1/8 inch. Does anyone know what kind of
glass this is, and who makes it? The supply places I went to locally
couldn't identify it or match it.
Any help is greatly appreciated!!
Sarah
White Dove Creations


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From owner-glass Mon Feb 11 06:28:09 2002
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Subject: Re: Need Help (Bungi)
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 08:13:44 EST
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Precedence: bulk

Sarah,

Don't be surprised if you don't get too many responses.  When your subject 
line does not relate to glass ( i.e. "need help" could mean anything ) many 
of us, accustomed to deleting many spam messages every day, will delete your 
message without even reading it.

Maybe you should re-submit your post with a different subject, such as, "Need 
help matching glass" or "Does anyone recognise this glass?" or "Bungi 
question."  I think it would be great if all bungi messages had "bungi" 
somewhere in the subject, but it isn't always necessary.

I would like to remind everyone to please be specific in your subject line.  
This was recently pointed out, but it deserves mention again.

Carolyn Gilinsky
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From owner-glass Mon Feb 11 08:03:15 2002
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From: "Sarah" <arasai@woh.rr.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Flashed glass
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 08:35:57 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@woh.rr.com>
Precedence: bulk

Thanks to all for helping me to identify this glass, and the reminder about
subject lines! I tend to forget.... I live in Southwest Ohio, and should be
able to get this glass from Franklin Art Glass in Columbus!
Thanks again for such a quick response, you guys are SO wonderful!
Cyber-friends are the best!!

Have a wonderful day,
Sarah
White Dove Creations


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From owner-glass Mon Feb 11 11:05:44 2002
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Subject: Re: Need Help (Bungi)
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 12:26:38 EST
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I agree with this suggestion wholeheartedly.  Many times I receive messages 
and have no idea they are from the Bungi group.  I think it would be helpful 
if we all included the word "Bungi" in our subject line in the future.

I would also greatly appreciate it, if when a question is posted to the group 
- the response ALSO goes out to the entire group.  Many times I have read an 
excellent question on here - but then the people who respond to the question 
ONLY respond to the person asking it - instead of to the entire group.  I 
have learned so much from the knowledgeable people on Bungi - but I am sure I 
have missed out on a great deal of your tips and suggestions for this reason. 
 

Thanks to all of you and I look forward to sharing your insight :)

Loret
Michigan

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  COLOR="#8000ff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SCRIPT" FACE="Comic Sans MS" LANG="0">I agree with this suggestion wholeheartedly. &nbsp;Many times I receive messages and have no idea they are from the Bungi group. &nbsp;I think it would be helpful if we all included the word "Bungi" in our subject line in the future.
<BR>
<BR>I would also greatly appreciate it, if when a question is posted to the group - the response ALSO goes out to the entire group. &nbsp;Many times I have read an excellent question on here - but then the people who respond to the question ONLY respond to the person asking it - instead of to the entire group. &nbsp;I have learned so much from the knowledgeable people on Bungi - but I am sure I have missed out on a great deal of your tips and suggestions for this reason. &nbsp;
<BR>
<BR>Thanks to all of you and I look forward to sharing your insight :)
<BR>
<BR>Loret
<BR>Michigan</FONT></HTML>

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From owner-glass Mon Feb 11 11:41:52 2002
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From: CINDEL67@aol.com
To: Roxie1824@aol.com, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_17c.3638e6a.2999710f_boundary"
Subject: Bungi Re: Need Help & suggestions
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 14:10:07 EST
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I second this motion. I agree totally with Loret. Thanks for emailing exactly 
what I wanted to say.

Cinda, Indiana


> I agree with this suggestion wholeheartedly.  Many times I receive messages 
> and have no idea they are from the Bungi group.  I think it would be 
> helpful if we all included the word "Bungi" in our subject line in the 
> future. 
> 
> I would also greatly appreciate it, if when a question is posted to the 
> group - the response ALSO goes out to the entire group.  Many times I have 
> read an excellent question on here - but then the people who respond to the 
> question ONLY respond to the person asking it - instead of to the entire 
> group.  I have learned so much from the knowledgeable people on Bungi - but 
> I am sure I have missed out on a great deal of your tips and suggestions 
> for this reason.   
> 
> Thanks to all of you and I look forward to sharing your insight :) 
> 
> Loret 
> Michigan 


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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  COLOR="#8080c0" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SERIF" FACE="Lucida Bright" LANG="0"><B>I second this motion. I agree totally with Loret. Thanks for emailing <U>exactly</U> what I wanted to say.<BR>
<BR>
Cinda, Indiana</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#8000ff" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SERIF" FACE="Lucida Bright" LANG="0"></B><BR>
<BR>
</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"><BR>
</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#8000ff" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SCRIPT" FACE="Comic Sans MS" LANG="0"><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">I agree with this suggestion wholeheartedly.&nbsp; Many times I receive messages and have no idea they are from the Bungi group.&nbsp; I think it would be helpful if we all included the word "Bungi" in our subject line in the future. <BR>
<BR>
I would also greatly appreciate it, if when a question is posted to the group - the response ALSO goes out to the entire group.&nbsp; Many times I have read an excellent question on here - but then the people who respond to the question ONLY respond to the person asking it - instead of to the entire group.&nbsp; I have learned so much from the knowledgeable people on Bungi - but I am sure I have missed out on a great deal of your tips and suggestions for this reason.&nbsp;&nbsp; <BR>
<BR>
Thanks to all of you and I look forward to sharing your insight :) <BR>
<BR>
Loret <BR>
Michigan</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SCRIPT" FACE="Comic Sans MS" LANG="0"> </BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#8000ff" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SERIF" FACE="Lucida Bright" LANG="0"><BR>
</FONT></HTML>
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From owner-glass Mon Feb 11 13:46:19 2002
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X-Path: mindspring.com!redswanne
From: "redswanne@mindspring.com" <redswanne@mindspring.com>
To: "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Glass Painting Beginner (Bungi)
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 15:18:56 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@mindspring.com>
Precedence: bulk

Greetings all.  I have only recently joined this list, and like many others can=92t wait to share what little knowledge I=
 may have, and learn from those of you.

I have been working with foiled glass for 12 years.  A year ago, my youngest two children were finally of an age that I c=
ould really dive in again, and so I finally decided to take another route and started working with lead came, almost excl=
usively.  Now, I have decided to branch out yet again, and am preparing to try my hand at painting/firing on glass.  

I know of no one in my area to whom I can pose questions to, so I am going to through one out on the proverbial table=85 =
 Is there anyone here who has tried this aspect, and if so what suggestions and warnings you may have, no matter how big =
or small=85..

I am very excited about getting into this medium, but also a little wary, and so I could use all suggestions anyone is wi=
lling to throw my way.

Thank you

Jean
North Carolina


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From owner-glass Mon Feb 11 14:21:12 2002
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From: Lorley Oneyear <lorley@cox.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: multipart/mixed; x-avg-checked=avg-ok-62DE3F64; boundary="=======691A2ED1======="
Subject: replies to group
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 13:39:57 -0700
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I saw the question: What is this glass?

Then I saw a reply: Thanks to all for helping me to identify this glass



Where are the replies????  What type of glass was that?


--=====================_4845345==_.ALT
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<html>
I saw the question: What is this glass?<br><br>
Then I saw a reply: <font size=3>Thanks to all for helping me to identify
this glass<br><br>
<br><br>
Where are the replies????&nbsp; What type of glass was that?</font><br>
</html>


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From owner-glass Mon Feb 11 15:23:54 2002
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Sarah <arasai@woh.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Flashed glass
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 21:14:58 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@verrier>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@woh.rr.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Sarah,
        Could you summarise the responses you received for those on the
list that did not get them?
thanks
Steve
In message <1970Jan1.000.0@woh.rr.com>, Sarah <arasai@woh.rr.com> writes
>Thanks to all for helping me to identify this glass, and the reminder about
>subject lines! I tend to forget.... I live in Southwest Ohio, and should be
>able to get this glass from Franklin Art Glass in Columbus!
>Thanks again for such a quick response, you guys are SO wonderful!
>Cyber-friends are the best!!
>
>Have a wonderful day,
>Sarah
>White Dove Creations
>
>
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-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Mon Feb 11 16:29:58 2002
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From: "Suzanne Gunn" <gunnx4@cox.net>
To: <Roxie1824@aol.com>,
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: changing subject heading was Re: Need Help (Bungi)
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 16:03:25 -0600
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Personally, I read messages that say "help".  Over the past several =
years, the only messages I've seen come to bungi that said "help" were =
not spam messages.  I don't disagree with using proper subjects however.

While on the subject of "subjects", it's probably even more important to =
change the subject line when you change the subject of the original =
post.

Suzanne
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Roxie1824@aol.com=20
  To: CUngv@aol.com ; arasai@woh.rr.com ; glass@bungi.com=20
  Sent: Monday, February 11, 2002 11:26 AM
  Subject: Re: Need Help (Bungi)


  I agree with this suggestion wholeheartedly.  Many times I receive =
messages and have no idea they are from the Bungi group.  I think it =
would be helpful if we all included the word "Bungi" in our subject line =
in the future.=20

  I would also greatly appreciate it, if when a question is posted to =
the group - the response ALSO goes out to the entire group.  Many times =
I have read an excellent question on here - but then the people who =
respond to the question ONLY respond to the person asking it - instead =
of to the entire group.  I have learned so much from the knowledgeable =
people on Bungi - but I am sure I have missed out on a great deal of =
your tips and suggestions for this reason.  =20

  Thanks to all of you and I look forward to sharing your insight :)=20

  Loret=20
  Michigan=20

------=_NextPart_000_002B_01C1B315.A2FF25C0
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4807.2300" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Personally, I read messages that say =
"help".&nbsp;=20
Over the past several years, the only messages I've seen come to bungi =
that said=20
"help" were not spam messages.&nbsp; I don't disagree with using proper =
subjects=20
however.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>While on the subject of "subjects", =
it's probably=20
even more important to change the subject line when you change the =
subject of=20
the original post.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Suzanne</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A title=3DRoxie1824@aol.com=20
  href=3D"mailto:Roxie1824@aol.com">Roxie1824@aol.com</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=3DCUngv@aol.com=20
  href=3D"mailto:CUngv@aol.com">CUngv@aol.com</A> ; <A =
title=3Darasai@woh.rr.com=20
  href=3D"mailto:arasai@woh.rr.com">arasai@woh.rr.com</A> ; <A=20
  title=3Dglass@bungi.com =
href=3D"mailto:glass@bungi.com">glass@bungi.com</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Monday, February 11, 2002 =
11:26=20
  AM</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: Need Help =
(Bungi)</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT lang=3D0 =
face=3D"Comic Sans MS"=20
  color=3D#8000ff size=3D2 FAMILY=3D"SCRIPT">I agree with this =
suggestion=20
  wholeheartedly. &nbsp;Many times I receive messages and have no idea =
they are=20
  from the Bungi group. &nbsp;I think it would be helpful if we all =
included the=20
  word "Bungi" in our subject line in the future. <BR><BR>I would also =
greatly=20
  appreciate it, if when a question is posted to the group - the =
response ALSO=20
  goes out to the entire group. &nbsp;Many times I have read an =
excellent=20
  question on here - but then the people who respond to the question =
ONLY=20
  respond to the person asking it - instead of to the entire group. =
&nbsp;I have=20
  learned so much from the knowledgeable people on Bungi - but I am sure =
I have=20
  missed out on a great deal of your tips and suggestions for this =
reason.=20
  &nbsp; <BR><BR>Thanks to all of you and I look forward to sharing your =
insight=20
  :) <BR><BR>Loret <BR>Michigan</FONT> =
</FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-glass Mon Feb 11 17:29:45 2002
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X-Path: home.com!esavad
From: "Mike Savad" <esavad@home.com>
To: <Roxie1824@aol.com>,
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: RE: Need Help (Bungi)
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 19:19:44 -0500
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------=_NextPart_000_0010_01C1B331.10264F00
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that's how the group used to be, but then it was changed to this silly
format.


---Mike Savad

  -----Original Message-----
  From: Roxie1824@aol.com [mailto:Roxie1824@aol.com]
  Sent: Monday, February 11, 2002 12:27 PM
  To: CUngv@aol.com; arasai@woh.rr.com; glass@bungi.com
  Subject: Re: Need Help (Bungi)


  I agree with this suggestion wholeheartedly.  Many times I receive
messages and have no idea they are from the Bungi group.  I think it would
be helpful if we all included the word "Bungi" in our subject line in the
future.

  I would also greatly appreciate it, if when a question is posted to the
group - the response ALSO goes out to the entire group.  Many times I have
read an excellent question on here - but then the people who respond to the
question ONLY respond to the person asking it - instead of to the entire
group.  I have learned so much from the knowledgeable people on Bungi - but
I am sure I have missed out on a great deal of your tips and suggestions for
this reason.

  Thanks to all of you and I look forward to sharing your insight :)

  Loret
  Michigan

------=_NextPart_000_0010_01C1B331.10264F00
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4912.300" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D010241900-12022002><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff =
size=3D2>that's=20
how the group used to be, but then it was changed to this silly=20
format.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D010241900-12022002><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff =

size=3D2></FONT></SPAN>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D010241900-12022002><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff =

size=3D2></FONT></SPAN>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D010241900-12022002><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff =

size=3D2>---Mike Savad</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D010241900-12022002></SPAN>&nbsp;</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE>
  <DIV class=3DOutlookMessageHeader dir=3Dltr align=3Dleft><FONT =
face=3DTahoma=20
  size=3D2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B> Roxie1824@aol.com=20
  [mailto:Roxie1824@aol.com]<BR><B>Sent:</B> Monday, February 11, 2002 =
12:27=20
  PM<BR><B>To:</B> CUngv@aol.com; arasai@woh.rr.com;=20
  glass@bungi.com<BR><B>Subject:</B> Re: Need Help=20
  (Bungi)<BR><BR></FONT></DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT =
lang=3D0=20
  face=3D"Comic Sans MS" color=3D#8000ff size=3D2 FAMILY=3D"SCRIPT">I =
agree with this=20
  suggestion wholeheartedly. &nbsp;Many times I receive messages and =
have no=20
  idea they are from the Bungi group. &nbsp;I think it would be helpful =
if we=20
  all included the word "Bungi" in our subject line in the future. =
<BR><BR>I=20
  would also greatly appreciate it, if when a question is posted to the =
group -=20
  the response ALSO goes out to the entire group. &nbsp;Many times I =
have read=20
  an excellent question on here - but then the people who respond to the =

  question ONLY respond to the person asking it - instead of to the =
entire=20
  group. &nbsp;I have learned so much from the knowledgeable people on =
Bungi -=20
  but I am sure I have missed out on a great deal of your tips and =
suggestions=20
  for this reason. &nbsp; <BR><BR>Thanks to all of you and I look =
forward to=20
  sharing your insight :) <BR><BR>Loret <BR>Michigan</FONT>=20
</FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-glass Mon Feb 11 17:52:09 2002
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X-Path: aol.com!CncptThnkr
From: CncptThnkr@aol.com
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: White on Clear Flash Glass
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 19:59:55 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>
Precedence: bulk

Hello all,

I assumed it was flash glass also but I have a question (or quite a few questions <grin>).  Of what use would clear/white flash glass be?  When you sand blast the surface glass, which I assume is the white, you'd "frost" the clear glass and have a "white frosted" etched design on a white surface.  Wouldn't it be extremely low contrast?  Would the benefit be a design that was seen by changing the amount of light filtering in?  Just curious.

Pat
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From owner-glass Mon Feb 11 22:46:28 2002
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X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Flash glass (bungi)
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 17:52:47 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com>
Precedence: bulk

Message text written by "Sarah"
>Hi to all, I am trying to identify a piece of glass from a repair I am
working on. The broken glass is white on the backside, and clear on the
front side. It's smooth in texture, and if viewed from the side, it appea=
rs
that the clear glass is slightly thicker than the white glass, but the
overall piece is no thicker than 1/8 inch. Does anyone know what kind of
glass this is, and who makes it? The supply places I went to locally
couldn't identify it or match it.<

Sounds like flash glass...specifically a white flashed on top of clear. =

Flash glass is available from various distributors.

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
Denton, TX
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From owner-glass Tue Feb 12 07:19:35 2002
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X-Path: stainedglass.co.uk!studio
From: "studio@stainedglass.co.uk" <studio@stainedglass.co.uk>
To: "Sarah" <arasai@woh.rr.com>,<glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Need Help
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 08:38:46 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@stainedglass.co.uk>
Precedence: bulk

At 02:19 PM 2/10/02 -0500, Sarah wrote:
>Hi to all, I am trying to identify a piece of glass from a repair I am
>working on. The broken glass is white on the backside, and clear on the
>front side. It's smooth in texture, and if viewed from the side, it appears
>that the clear glass is slightly thicker than the white glass, but the
>overall piece is no thicker than 1/8 inch.
 
Sarah this is white flashed opal glass - sometimes also called white opak.
We sell it in our supplies shop in England - but any stained glass supplies
shop ought to be able to obtain it if they dont have it in stock.
If they have no wholesaler stocking it get them to contact us and I can give
them some contact details.

Regards
EliZabeth in UK

Bournemouth Stained Glass
http://www.stainedglass.co.uk

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From owner-glass Tue Feb 12 09:35:42 2002
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X-Path: mindspring.com!boydz
From: boyd <boydz@mindspring.com>
To: CncptThnkr@aol.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
Subject: Re: White on Clear Flash Glass
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 11:42:10 -0800
Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.0.20020212113630.00a98b90@mail.mindspring.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>>
Precedence: bulk

hi pat!

At 07:59 PM 2/11/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>I assumed it was flash glass also but I have a question (or quite a few 
>questions <grin>).  Of what use would clear/white flash glass be?  When 
>you sand blast the surface glass, which I assume is the white, you'd 
>"frost" the clear glass and have a "white frosted" etched design on a 
>white surface.  Wouldn't it be extremely low contrast?  Would the benefit 
>be a design that was seen by changing the amount of light filtering 
>in?  Just curious.

good question!

i'm betting that it might be used for acid etching, rather than 
sandblasting. with etching, the etched surface (the white layer) would be 
smooth and clear (presumably) letting the light from the clear layer 
through. you'd have the white areas with clear "cut outs". kind of the 
inverse of what you get when you sandblast on clear glass. that's my best 
guess anyway other people on the list who are more "in the know" might have 
a better answer.

take care,

--boyd



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From owner-glass Tue Feb 12 13:12:13 2002
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X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Glass Painting Beginner (Bungi)
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 17:52:45 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com>
Precedence: bulk

Message text written by "redswanne@mindspring.com"
>Now, I have decided to branch out yet again, and am preparing to try my
hand at painting/firing on glass.  =


I know of no one in my area to whom I can pose questions to, so I am goin=
g
to through one out on the proverbial table
 Is there anyone here who has tried this aspect, and if so what suggestio=
ns
and warnings you may have, no matter how big
or small..

I am very excited about getting into this medium, but also a little wary,=

and so I could use all suggestions anyone is willing to throw my way.

Thank you

Jean
North Carolina<

I took a glass painting workshop last autumn.  Very interesting.  Purchas=
e
the best badger brush you can if you are going to do matts.  Also, purcha=
se
"The Art of Painting on Glass" by Elskus.  Purchase a beginner's painting=

on glass set from Reusch.  Go from there and ask questions on bungi.

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
Denton, TX
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From owner-glass Tue Feb 12 13:26:41 2002
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X-Path: woh.rr.com!arasai
From: "Sarah" <arasai@woh.rr.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Glass question summary
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 00:27:51 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@woh.rr.com>
Precedence: bulk

Hello again, fellow Bungians! It was suggested that I summarize the answers
I received about my question on trying to identify a piece of glass I need
to replace. Here goes!
The glass is 1/8 inch thick, and is white glass fused to clear glass. It's
called "flashed glass" and is still available, but probably has to be
ordered.
Someone asked about sand-blasting this glass, which is all I had thought it
was used for, but I am repairing a older lamp shade, and that was the piece
that was broken. One supplier I took it to couldn't identify it, but sold me
some Spectrum 305, which is in no way what-so-ever a close match! When I cut
the replacement flower from the 305, it was a glaring difference!
We live and learn....
Here comes my own opinion, but after reading the various emails about
message lines, if my message line doesn't say "glass" (like the one on this
message...) then I will put "Bungi" in the message line. Most likely,
something like "Bungians...Help!!!"  ;o)
  I do wish that we could all get the same messages, it's frustrating to see
a question that I can relate to, then never get to see the answers, which I
know from experience are many, and rich with knowledge and friendship!

Well, that's about as windy as I can get this late at night,
Thanks to all once again, for being there when I need help!
Sarah
White Dove Creations


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From owner-glass Tue Feb 12 16:03:29 2002
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X-Path: yahoo.com!beadnik
From: Joan <beadnik@yahoo.com>
To: Roxie1824@aol.com, CUngv@aol.com, arasai@woh.rr.com, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Need Help (Bungi)
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 21:36:15 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>>
Precedence: bulk



Part of the problem lies with the way this list is set
up.  In order for the answers to be seen by the entire
list, you either have to click on "reply all" or
copy/paste the glass@bungi.com address in. I know I am
used to merely clicking 'reply' and have, at times,
sent a reply only to the sender, when that was not my
intention.

I also still receive many blank e-mails.... no text
whatsoever.  Does this still happen to others???

Joan

--- Roxie1824@aol.com wrote:

> I would also greatly appreciate it, if when a
> question is posted to the group 
> - the response ALSO goes out to the entire group. 
> Many times I have read an 
> excellent question on here - but then the people who
> respond to the question 
> ONLY respond to the person asking it - instead of to
> the entire group.  I 
> have learned so much from the knowledgeable people
> on Bungi - but I am sure I 
> have missed out on a great deal of your tips and
> suggestions for this reason. 
>  
> 
> Thanks to all of you and I look forward to sharing
> your insight :)
> 
> Loret
> Michigan
> 
  

__________________________________________________
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From owner-glass Tue Feb 12 17:11:28 2002
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X-Path: aol.com!Beveler4
From: Beveler4@aol.com
To: <redswanne@mindspring.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Re: Glass Painting Beginner (Bungi)
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 10:01:14 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>
Precedence: bulk

Hi Jean,
We have a class on that very subject coming up in March,possibly April whenever Ann Baxter also a member of Bungi and also the Sect of the IGGA,can fit it into her schedule.It is a very interesting class and one that you will definetly find informative with a lot of hands on teaching not just lecture.You will leave the class with one or more finished pieces.
Stan
The Beveler's Glass Studio
7811 Cheviot Rd.
Cinti Ohio 45247
1-513-385-4364
1-513-385-0715-fax
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From owner-glass Tue Feb 12 17:42:21 2002
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: "redswanne@mindspring.com" <redswanne@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Glass Painting Beginner (Bungi)
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 22:15:36 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@verrier>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@mindspring.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Jean,
        Congratulations on your move into leaded glass - the only real
medium according to some reactionaries.  :-)
        Adding glass painting to your skills will take your work to
another level and will give you years and years of happy experimenting.

You need to get vitreous paints ( I suggest Reusche in Colorado as the
best)  I suggest that you start with tracing and shading colours -
blacks and browns first.  These are paints that you will always need,
even if you move on to enamels, to hold the image.  They are higher
firing than enamels or stains, but more consistent in results than
either of the others.

You need to get a kiln.  A small table top enamelling kiln will do.  I
have an Australian brother-in-law that does church sized windows with
his small kiln that has a 9inch cube firing chamber.  It just means that
you can't fire as many pieces at a time and so is slower than a big
kiln.  Start small and expand if you need, is my view.  You do need a
pyrometer for the kiln.  Controllers are a luxury on small rapidly
heating kilns.  Just use the rheostat control to speed up or slow down
the temperature fall or rise.

Get a good book on glass painting - Elskus' book is now reprinted and
should be available in good art bookshops or on Amazon.  Elskus can be
read many times and still provide new insights.

I am sure there will be many people encouraging you and willing to
answer questions about the results of your experimenting.

Best wishes

Steve Richard



In message <1970Jan1.000.0@mindspring.com>, redswanne@mindspring.com
<redswanne@mindspring.com> writes
>Greetings all.  I have only recently joined this list, and like many others 
>can=92t wait to share what little knowledge I=
> may have, and learn from those of you.
>
>I have been working with foiled glass for 12 years.  A year ago, my youngest two 
>children were finally of an age that I c=
>ould really dive in again, and so I finally decided to take another route and 
>started working with lead came, almost excl=
>usively.  Now, I have decided to branch out yet again, and am preparing to try 
>my hand at painting/firing on glass.  
>
>I know of no one in my area to whom I can pose questions to, so I am going to 
>through one out on the proverbial table=85 =
> Is there anyone here who has tried this aspect, and if so what suggestions and 
>warnings you may have, no matter how big =
>or small=85..
>
>I am very excited about getting into this medium, but also a little wary, and so 
>I could use all suggestions anyone is wi=
>lling to throw my way.
>
>Thank you
>
>Jean
>North Carolina
>
>
>--------------------------------------------------------------------
>mail2web - Check your email from the web at
>http://mail2web.com/ .
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Tue Feb 12 20:16:02 2002
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X-Path: cox.net!gunnx4
From: "Suzanne Gunn" <gunnx4@cox.net>
To: "Joan" <beadnik@yahoo.com>,
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: Re: Need Help (Bungi)
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 19:32:15 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@cox.net>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>>
Organization: glsasdancer
Precedence: bulk

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_012D_01C1B3FB.FA179FE0
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hey Joan...

Well..still getting used to this darn email program that I never wanted =
to use...but, Im not getting blank messages, (maybe that's why?).  =
However, Im thinking some of mine may be blank now that I can see the =
ones that used to be blank to me! lol..hope that makes sense.

Suzanne

----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Joan=20
  To: Roxie1824@aol.com ; CUngv@aol.com ; arasai@woh.rr.com ; =
glass@bungi.com=20
  Sent: Monday, February 11, 2002 11:36 PM
  Subject: Re: Need Help (Bungi)




  Part of the problem lies with the way this list is set
  up.  In order for the answers to be seen by the entire
  list, you either have to click on "reply all" or
  copy/paste the glass@bungi.com address in. I know I am
  used to merely clicking 'reply' and have, at times,
  sent a reply only to the sender, when that was not my
  intention.

  I also still receive many blank e-mails.... no text
  whatsoever.  Does this still happen to others???

  Joan

  --- Roxie1824@aol.com wrote:

  > I would also greatly appreciate it, if when a
  > question is posted to the group=20
  > - the response ALSO goes out to the entire group.=20
  > Many times I have read an=20
  > excellent question on here - but then the people who
  > respond to the question=20
  > ONLY respond to the person asking it - instead of to
  > the entire group.  I=20
  > have learned so much from the knowledgeable people
  > on Bungi - but I am sure I=20
  > have missed out on a great deal of your tips and
  > suggestions for this reason.=20
  > =20
  >=20
  > Thanks to all of you and I look forward to sharing
  > your insight :)
  >=20
  > Loret
  > Michigan
  >=20
   =20

  __________________________________________________
  Do You Yahoo!?
  Send FREE Valentine eCards with Yahoo! Greetings!
  http://greetings.yahoo.com
  ----
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------=_NextPart_000_012D_01C1B3FB.FA179FE0
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4807.2300" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Hey Joan...</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Well..still getting used to this darn =
email program=20
that I never wanted to use...but, Im not getting blank messages, (maybe =
that's=20
why?).&nbsp; However, Im thinking some of mine may be blank now that I =
can see=20
the ones that used to be blank to me! lol..hope that makes =
sense.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Suzanne</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A title=3Dbeadnik@yahoo.com =
href=3D"mailto:beadnik@yahoo.com">Joan</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=3DRoxie1824@aol.com=20
  href=3D"mailto:Roxie1824@aol.com">Roxie1824@aol.com</A> ; <A =
title=3DCUngv@aol.com=20
  href=3D"mailto:CUngv@aol.com">CUngv@aol.com</A> ; <A =
title=3Darasai@woh.rr.com=20
  href=3D"mailto:arasai@woh.rr.com">arasai@woh.rr.com</A> ; <A=20
  title=3Dglass@bungi.com =
href=3D"mailto:glass@bungi.com">glass@bungi.com</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Monday, February 11, 2002 =
11:36=20
  PM</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: Need Help =
(Bungi)</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV><BR><BR>Part of the problem lies with the way this list =
is=20
  set<BR>up.&nbsp; In order for the answers to be seen by the =
entire<BR>list,=20
  you either have to click on "reply all" or<BR>copy/paste the <A=20
  href=3D"mailto:glass@bungi.com">glass@bungi.com</A> address in. I know =
I=20
  am<BR>used to merely clicking 'reply' and have, at times,<BR>sent a =
reply only=20
  to the sender, when that was not my<BR>intention.<BR><BR>I also still =
receive=20
  many blank e-mails.... no text<BR>whatsoever.&nbsp; Does this still =
happen to=20
  others???<BR><BR>Joan<BR><BR>--- <A=20
  href=3D"mailto:Roxie1824@aol.com">Roxie1824@aol.com</A> =
wrote:<BR><BR>&gt; I=20
  would also greatly appreciate it, if when a<BR>&gt; question is posted =
to the=20
  group <BR>&gt; - the response ALSO goes out to the entire group. =
<BR>&gt; Many=20
  times I have read an <BR>&gt; excellent question on here - but then =
the people=20
  who<BR>&gt; respond to the question <BR>&gt; ONLY respond to the =
person asking=20
  it - instead of to<BR>&gt; the entire group.&nbsp; I <BR>&gt; have =
learned so=20
  much from the knowledgeable people<BR>&gt; on Bungi - but I am sure I =
<BR>&gt;=20
  have missed out on a great deal of your tips and<BR>&gt; suggestions =
for this=20
  reason. <BR>&gt;&nbsp; <BR>&gt; <BR>&gt; Thanks to all of you and I =
look=20
  forward to sharing<BR>&gt; your insight :)<BR>&gt; <BR>&gt; =
Loret<BR>&gt;=20
  Michigan<BR>&gt; <BR>&nbsp;=20
  <BR><BR>__________________________________________________<BR>Do You=20
  Yahoo!?<BR>Send FREE Valentine eCards with Yahoo! Greetings!<BR><A=20
  =
href=3D"http://greetings.yahoo.com">http://greetings.yahoo.com</A><BR>---=
-<BR>For=20
  subscription changes, please mail to: <A=20
  =
href=3D"mailto:glass-request@bungi.com">glass-request@bungi.com</A><BR>To=
 send=20
  to the list,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; please mail to: <A=20
  href=3D"mailto:glass@bungi.com">glass@bungi.com</A><BR>Archives =
available at <A=20
  =
href=3D"http://www.bungi.com/glass">http://www.bungi.com/glass</A></BLOCK=
QUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-glass Tue Feb 12 20:34:26 2002
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	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: hotmail.com!frankgmizzi
From: "Frank Mizzi" <frankgmizzi@hotmail.com>
To: CINDEL67@aol.com, Roxie1824@aol.com, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
Subject: Bungi... Re: Need Help & suggestions
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 22:33:40 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@hotmail.com>
Precedence: bulk

Greetings,

I, too, would have to agree whole heartedly.

The years that I was a member to this list before this current membership 
helped me tremendously and it would be good if others could also benefit 
thus.

FG Mizzi


>From: CINDEL67@aol.com
>To: Roxie1824@aol.com, glass@bungi.com
>Subject: Bungi Re: Need Help & suggestions
>Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 14:10:07 EST
>
>I second this motion. I agree totally with Loret. Thanks for emailing 
>exactly
>what I wanted to say.
>
>Cinda, Indiana
>
>
> > I agree with this suggestion wholeheartedly.  Many times I receive 
>messages
> > and have no idea they are from the Bungi group.  I think it would be
> > helpful if we all included the word "Bungi" in our subject line in the
> > future.
> >
> > I would also greatly appreciate it, if when a question is posted to the
> > group - the response ALSO goes out to the entire group.  Many times I 
>have
> > read an excellent question on here - but then the people who respond to 
>the
> > question ONLY respond to the person asking it - instead of to the entire
> > group.  I have learned so much from the knowledgeable people on Bungi - 
>but
> > I am sure I have missed out on a great deal of your tips and suggestions
> > for this reason.
> >
> > Thanks to all of you and I look forward to sharing your insight :)
> >
> > Loret
> > Michigan
>


_________________________________________________________________
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: 
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx

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From owner-glass Tue Feb 12 21:09:17 2002
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	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: cox.net!gunnx4
From: "Suzanne Gunn" <gunnx4@cox.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Bungi Testing
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 22:52:19 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@cox.net>
Organization: glsasdancer
Precedence: bulk

Sorry...but one of my friends just informed me that since using this new
email program (that I dont like btw but it's the only one my ISP supports)
my messages are coming in blank.  Im trying to learn this program and Im
hoping Ive got it fixed.

Suzanne

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From owner-glass Tue Feb 12 21:17:51 2002
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	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: centurytel.net!mistykat
From: "Peggy Ness" <mistykat@centurytel.net>
To: "Joan" <beadnik@yahoo.com>, <Roxie1824@aol.com>, <CUngv@aol.com>,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Need Help (Bungi)
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 21:24:54 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@centurytel.net>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>>
Precedence: bulk

I seem to receive quite a few blank e-mails.  Is there something I can do to
avoid this.  Renewing my intrest in stained glass and need all the help I
can get.  I really enjoy all the conversation that takes place on this
board.  My thanks to all of you.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Joan" <beadnik@yahoo.com>
To: <Roxie1824@aol.com>; <CUngv@aol.com>; <arasai@woh.rr.com>;
<glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2002 11:36 PM
Subject: Re: Need Help (Bungi)


>
>
> Part of the problem lies with the way this list is set
> up.  In order for the answers to be seen by the entire
> list, you either have to click on "reply all" or
> copy/paste the glass@bungi.com address in. I know I am
> used to merely clicking 'reply' and have, at times,
> sent a reply only to the sender, when that was not my
> intention.
>
> I also still receive many blank e-mails.... no text
> whatsoever.  Does this still happen to others???
>
> Joan
>
> --- Roxie1824@aol.com wrote:
>
> > I would also greatly appreciate it, if when a
> > question is posted to the group
> > - the response ALSO goes out to the entire group.
> > Many times I have read an
> > excellent question on here - but then the people who
> > respond to the question
> > ONLY respond to the person asking it - instead of to
> > the entire group.  I
> > have learned so much from the knowledgeable people
> > on Bungi - but I am sure I
> > have missed out on a great deal of your tips and
> > suggestions for this reason.
> >
> >
> > Thanks to all of you and I look forward to sharing
> > your insight :)
> >
> > Loret
> > Michigan
> >
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Send FREE Valentine eCards with Yahoo! Greetings!
> http://greetings.yahoo.com
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>

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From owner-glass Tue Feb 12 22:14:29 2002
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	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: slonet.org!edupjohn
From: "Peggy W. Johnsen" <edupjohn@slonet.org>
To: Sarah <arasai@woh.rr.com>
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Need Help
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 19:34:34 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@slonet.org>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@woh.rr.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Sarah:  What you have described is white "flash" glass.  Should be in the
section of antique glass.  PJ

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From owner-glass Tue Feb 12 22:23:07 2002
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	for rglass-42; Tue, 12 Feb 2002 22:06:43 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: CncptThnkr@aol.com
Subject: Etching flashed glass (was:White on Clear Flash Glass)
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 19:44:11 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@verrier>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Pat, et al,

Flashed glass is an excellent medium for expressing detail that cannot
be done with lead or foil lines.  Very advanced painterly effects can be
achieved by the use of hydrofluoric acid, which erodes the colour giving
only a tint of the original or even a clear area beside the coloured
one.  It can be combined with painting to give highly detailed results.

Hydrofluoric acid is a very nasty chemical that is dangerous to life in
small quantities, so many precautions are required.  

So sandblasting is not the only way to get the colour off.  In any case
if you experimented with blasting off the white and compared the non
blasted area, you would see very different qualities of light coming
through.
        In medieval times, when flashed glass was invented to lighten
the dark pot metal colours, the colour was abraded off, and then
polished.  Hard work now, but it must have taken days without power
tools.

Steve


In message <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>, CncptThnkr@aol.com writes
>Hello all,
>
>I assumed it was flash glass also but I have a question (or quite a few 
>questions <grin>).  Of what use would clear/white flash glass be?  When you sand 
>blast the surface glass, which I assume is the white, you'd "frost" the clear 
>glass and have a "white frosted" etched design on a white surface.  Wouldn't it 
>be extremely low contrast?  Would the benefit be a design that was seen by 
>changing the amount of light filtering in?  Just curious.
>
>Pat
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Tue Feb 12 22:41:59 2002
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	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: mindspring.com!pigznpawz
From: "Jerri" <pigznpawz@mindspring.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Need Help (Bungi)
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 19:07:14 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@mindspring.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Hi Joan,

    I've gotten blank e-mails too, although not lately, I think.  I wondered
if they were just sender errors.

Jerri


Subject: Re: Need Help (Bungi)


>
>
> Part of the problem lies with the way this list is set
> up.  In order for the answers to be seen by the entire
> list, you either have to click on "reply all" or
> copy/paste the glass@bungi.com address in. I know I am
> used to merely clicking 'reply' and have, at times,
> sent a reply only to the sender, when that was not my
> intention.
>
> I also still receive many blank e-mails.... no text
> whatsoever.  Does this still happen to others???
>
> Joan
>
>


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From owner-glass Tue Feb 12 22:44:14 2002
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	for rglass-42; Tue, 12 Feb 2002 22:23:56 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: comcast.net!cecnralph
From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@comcast.net>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type=54455854;
Subject: test AGAIN
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 01:24:41 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net>
Organization: Grendel Studio
Precedence: bulk

This is about the 4th message I've sent to the group recently that has
not turned up in my Bungi folder or anywhere else, for that matter.  So
here is my 4th test.

Yes - I'm always forgetting to include Bungi specially when replying
(getting in the habit of doing Reply All is VERY risky behaviour).
Pardons, please.

The blank message are being sent in html format.  html is the format
that most web pages are built in - BUT html is a nono in email.  Email
was "invented" before the web and there are still a number of email
packages that cannot handle html.  Plus many listserv programs either
cannot or willnot use html.  For the most part you can avoid sending
"blanks" by changing you email preferences or settings.  Unless you know
someone also can use html, don't send html.

Cecily

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From owner-glass Tue Feb 12 23:47:00 2002
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	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: comcast.net!cecnralph
From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@comcast.net>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type=54455854;
Subject: Re: test AGAIN
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 02:21:52 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net>>
Organization: Grendel Studio
Precedence: bulk

Well - this one arrived in my Bungi folder.  The one I sent last night got
returned tonight.  And the others just seem to have gone into limbo. - Cec

Cecily & Ralph Wood wrote:

> This is about the 4th message I've sent to the group recently that has
> not turned up in my Bungi folder or anywhere else, for that matter.  So
> here is my 4th test.

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From owner-glass Wed Feb 13 00:48:15 2002
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	for rglass-42; Wed, 13 Feb 2002 00:32:51 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: cox.net!gunnx4
From: "Suzanne Gunn" <gunnx4@cox.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: Guru Bob
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 19:35:35 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@cox.net>
Organization: glsasdancer
Precedence: bulk

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_014C_01C1B3FC.715C7620
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Please email me.  I didnt get your new email address.

Suzanne

------=_NextPart_000_014C_01C1B3FC.715C7620
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4807.2300" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Please email me.&nbsp; I didnt get your =
new email=20
address.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Suzanne</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-glass Wed Feb 13 02:22:45 2002
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X-Path: stainedglass.co.uk!studio
From: "studio@stainedglass.co.uk" <studio@stainedglass.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Etching flashed glass (was:White on Clear Flash Glass)
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 09:42:56 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@stainedglass.co.uk>
Precedence: bulk

At 19:44 12/02/2002 +0000, Steve wrote:

>Flashed glass is an excellent medium for expressing detail that cannot
>be done with lead or foil lines. 

We also use flashed glass of all colour combinations for shop/house signs as
well as in painted-type panels as described by Steve.
After sandblasting the flashed glass away to leave letters or numbers we
often get rid of the frosted finish by fire-polishing it.  If properly done
it leaves the etched portion almost clear, rendering it perfect for
lettering etc.  Here the white/clear and black/clear fairly cheap flashed
glass made by Schott look very good - and of course are permanent for
applications such as house numbers and names etc.
Also if used with traditional painting/firing you can easily do complicated
lettering by using a stencil to deeply etch the letters then fill the etched
surfaces with a matt of tracing medium - scrape off any paint from the
non-etched/blasted glass once dry then fire the paint into the glass.
Regards
EliZabeth in Bournemouth

Bournemouth Stained Glass
http://www.stainedglass.co.uk
UK Charter Member RAGS


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From owner-glass Wed Feb 13 03:27:11 2002
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From: "studio@stainedglass.co.uk" <studio@stainedglass.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Abrading flashed glass in the past
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 09:42:58 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@stainedglass.co.uk>
Precedence: bulk

At 19:44 12/02/2002 +0000, Steve wrote:
>        In medieval times, when flashed glass was invented to lighten
>the dark pot metal colours, the colour was abraded off, and then
>polished.  Hard work now, but it must have taken days without power
>tools.
>

The gentleman from whom my husband learned the techniques of lead came work
often told us how he used to have to help produce all his firm's frosted
glass after the first world war.  
The apprentices used to spend days with fine grit and a slab of thick glass
with a handle stuck on it and literally grind away at large sheets of clear
glass to produce a finely frosted 'ground glass' for privacy in bathrooms etc!
This was of course interspersed with a far more relaxing job - that of
cementing the finished leaded windows by using a very runny 'cement' and
pouring it over the panel, letting it dry then turning the panel over and
repeating the process over and over again till it all dried.  Then the fun
of cleaning it up of course!  They were taught this was the only way to
ensure all nooks and crannies between the glass and lead were filled properly.

Regards
EliZabeth in Bournemouth (UK)
Bournemouth Stained Glass
http://www.stainedglass.co.uk
UK Charter Member RAGS


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From owner-glass Wed Feb 13 05:02:48 2002
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X-Path: earthlink.net!glasscutter
From: Gerry Phibbs <glasscutter@earthlink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Trying Once More (bungi) bounce
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 04:39:43 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@earthlink.net>
Precedence: bulk

All of my "replies" to messages posted to the bungi.com list, seem
to bounce back to me and undeliverable - here's one recent example.
I'll wager this explains why so many responses are missing from 
this discussion list.
  Peace  -Gerry Phibbs, IGGA

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To: CncptThnkr@aol.com, glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: White on Clear Flash Glass (bungi)

Hi Pat,
  That white over clear flashed glass has several uses.  First, it's a
very even and almost "dead flat" white glass, there are no variations in
the white, as there are with various other opalescents.  Very useful
stuff for getting a "pure" sort of white, and often is used in things
like lighting fixtures for that sort of even and uniform diffusion.  As
I recall GNA put out such a glass, at least that's my memory of it - it
was a long time ago that I used any of it.
  And, sure you can blast through the white.  Yes, you'll get a frosted
sort of effect, a shades of white, but the white is so dense, that the
contrast between the two layers, is more than you think it might be. 
The blasted clear transmits far more light than the opal white layer. 
Further, on smaller pieces (that'll fit into the kiln), you can use an
over spray low temp fluxing glass to refire the blasted clear back to
clear, which has to be done very carefully if you wish to keep any fine
detail that may have been blasted into the flashed glass.  White over
clear is a very interesting sort of effect.. I've seen a few pieces over
the years, sort of a cameo look to them, very intricate, and very
effective on a smaller scale - I don't know how it would look on a much
larger scale.  Angels seem to be a popular sort of theme for such work.
  And.. finally, just *how* are you and the others on bungi able to post
replies to the entire group?  Each and every time that I try.. whether I
do a "reply all", or do a "cc", or change that to make a response "to"
the bungi group, I always get the response that went to the bungi site
back, as undeliverable.  So, I've pretty much given up trying to post my
responses to the bungi group, and I suspect this automatic return of
replies, or copies of replies, accounts for why none of us are able to
see the responses on this question that evidently others made.
  Peace  -Gerry Phibbs, IGGA
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From owner-glass Wed Feb 13 06:39:11 2002
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Subject: test NG
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 08:26:17 -0500
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Organization: Grendel Studio
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Sorry.  Messages I KNOW I sent to Bungi didn't get here, and I keep
forgetting to include bungi in replies, so I'm just testing.  Senior
moments in computing as it were. - Cec

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From owner-glass Wed Feb 13 07:44:05 2002
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From: "Frank Mizzi" <frankgmizzi@hotmail.com>
To: s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
Subject: BUNGI  Re: Etching flashed glass (was:White on Clear Flash Glass)
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 13:42:24 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@hotmail.com>
Precedence: bulk



Greetings,

Just wanted to make a small note since Hydroflouric (HF) Acid was mentioned. 
  Please be advised that it is a very nasty substance.  It is a restricted 
substance in some staes in Australia.

Solutions of grester than 60% of the acid can cause almost immediate burns 
that can be slow to hael and may even affect bone.  Lower concentrations can 
cause slow ulceration.

Inhalation of fumes is also dangerous.

If you use it be sure to get hold of an up to date MSDS and read it 
carefully.

FGM
>From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
>To: CncptThnkr@aol.com
>Subject: Etching flashed glass (was:White on Clear Flash Glass)
>Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 19:44:11 +0000
>
>Pat, et al,
>
>Flashed glass is an excellent medium for expressing detail that cannot
>be done with lead or foil lines.  Very advanced painterly effects can be
>achieved by the use of hydrofluoric acid, which erodes the colour giving
>only a tint of the original or even a clear area beside the coloured
>one.  It can be combined with painting to give highly detailed results.
>
>Hydrofluoric acid is a very nasty chemical that is dangerous to life in
>small quantities, so many precautions are required.
>
>So sandblasting is not the only way to get the colour off.  In any case
>if you experimented with blasting off the white and compared the non
>blasted area, you would see very different qualities of light coming
>through.
>         In medieval times, when flashed glass was invented to lighten
>the dark pot metal colours, the colour was abraded off, and then
>polished.  Hard work now, but it must have taken days without power
>tools.
>
>Steve
>
>
>In message <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>, CncptThnkr@aol.com writes
> >Hello all,
> >
> >I assumed it was flash glass also but I have a question (or quite a few
> >questions <grin>).  Of what use would clear/white flash glass be?  When 
>you sand
> >blast the surface glass, which I assume is the white, you'd "frost" the 
>clear
> >glass and have a "white frosted" etched design on a white surface.  
>Wouldn't it
> >be extremely low contrast?  Would the benefit be a design that was seen 
>by
> >changing the amount of light filtering in?  Just curious.
> >
> >Pat
> >----
> >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> >To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
>--
>Steve Richard
>Verrier Art Glass Ltd
>s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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_________________________________________________________________
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From owner-glass Wed Feb 13 10:00:57 2002
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X-Path: doorpi.net!mmam5
From: mmam5@doorpi.net
To: studio@stainedglass.co.uk
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: Re: Abrading flashed glass in the past
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 12:44:12 EST
Message-ID: <200202131744.g1DHiHV59109@mail1.netacc.net>
Precedence: bulk

Wow! Sure makes one appreciate all the fancy tools, procedures and supplies
of our current age!

Marci
Martin Designs
www.mmartindesigns.com


On Wed, 13 Feb 2002 09:42:58 +0000 "studio@stainedglass.co.uk" wrote:

> At 19:44 12/02/2002 +0000, Steve wrote:
> >	   In medieval times, when flashed glass was invented to
> lighten
> >the dark pot metal colours, the colour was abraded off, and then
> >polished.  Hard work now, but it must have taken days without
> power
> >tools.
> >
> 
> The gentleman from whom my husband learned the techniques of lead
> came work
> often told us how he used to have to help produce all his firm's
> frosted
> glass after the first world war.  
> The apprentices used to spend days with fine grit and a slab of
> thick glass
> with a handle stuck on it and literally grind away at large sheets
> of clear
> glass to produce a finely frosted 'ground glass' for privacy in
> bathrooms etc!
> This was of course interspersed with a far more relaxing job -
> that of
> cementing the finished leaded windows by using a very runny
> 'cement' and
> pouring it over the panel, letting it dry then turning the panel
> over and
> repeating the process over and over again till it all dried.	Then
> the fun
> of cleaning it up of course!	They were taught this was the only
> way to
> ensure all nooks and crannies between the glass and lead were
> filled properly.
> 
> Regards
> EliZabeth in Bournemouth (UK)
> Bournemouth Stained Glass
> http://www.stainedglass.co.uk
> UK Charter Member RAGS
> 
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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From owner-glass Wed Feb 13 11:37:42 2002
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From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: bungi:Fire polishing
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 08:19:58 -0500
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Message text written by "studio@stainedglass.co.uk"
>After sandblasting the flashed glass away to leave letters or numbers we=

often get rid of the frosted finish by fire-polishing it.<

Would someone please give a detailed explaination of what "fire polishing=
"
is?  Thanks.

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
Denton, TX
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From owner-glass Wed Feb 13 12:08:04 2002
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From: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie.Spitzer@stratus.com>
To: "'Christie A. Wood'" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>, Bungi
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: RE: bungi:Fire polishing
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 12:44:26 -0700
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heating glass until grinding marks have melted down and it's shiny again.
this can be done in a kiln, or using some sort of torch.

regards,
charlie
cave creek, az

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Christie A. Wood [mailto:Ensembles@compuserve.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, February 13, 2002 6:20 AM
> To: Bungi
> Subject: bungi:Fire polishing
> 
> 
> Message text written by "studio@stainedglass.co.uk"
> >After sandblasting the flashed glass away to leave letters 
> or numbers we=
> 
> often get rid of the frosted finish by fire-polishing it.<
> 
> Would someone please give a detailed explaination of what 
> "fire polishing=
> "
> is?  Thanks.
> 
> Christie A. Wood
> Art Glass Ensembles
> Denton, TX
> ----
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> 
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Subject: Re: Need Help (Bungi)
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In a message dated 2/13/2002 7:35:57 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
ejr929@lvcm.com writes:


> Good thinking, Roxie.  So who's in charge?  And can that person fix the 
> problem?
>  
> =============
> Email from Ed Rogers
> <A HREF="mailto:ejr929@LVCM.com">ejr929@LVCM.com</A>
> 
> 

Well Ed, I think we are ALL in charge - and we can definitely fix the 
problem.  I am happy my suggestion was so well received - and the response 
thus far has been tremendous!!  We all just need to think a little bit before 
responding - and everyone will benefit :)

Loret

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  COLOR="#8000ff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SCRIPT" FACE="Comic Sans MS" LANG="0">In a message dated 2/13/2002 7:35:57 PM Eastern Standard Time, ejr929@lvcm.com writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Tahoma" LANG="0"><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px"><B>Good thinking, Roxie. &nbsp;So who's in charge? &nbsp;And can that person fix the problem?</B>
<BR> 
<BR><B>=============
<BR>Email from Ed Rogers
<BR><A HREF="mailto:ejr929@LVCM.com">ejr929@LVCM.com</A></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#8000ff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Tahoma" LANG="0">
<BR></B>
<BR></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#8000ff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SCRIPT" FACE="Comic Sans MS" LANG="0">
<BR>Well Ed, I think we are ALL in charge - and we can definitely fix the problem. &nbsp;I am happy my suggestion was so well received - and the response thus far has been tremendous!! &nbsp;We all just need to think a little bit before responding - and everyone will benefit :)
<BR>
<BR>Loret</FONT></HTML>

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From owner-glass Wed Feb 13 19:01:07 2002
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From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@comcast.net>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type=54455854;
Subject: Re: Need Help
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 02:40:03 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@woh.rr.com>>
Organization: Grendel Studio
Precedence: bulk

We need to know a little more about the glass.  Is this just a small hunk of
glass that could have come from a mixture of white and clear glass - as in a
wispy, and this small hunk had all the white on one side and the clear on the
other?  Or is there enough of the glass to know whether it is all like that.
If it is all like that, it is what is known as flashed glass.

Flashed glass is a two layered glass throughout - achieved only with blown
glass, where one color is started, and then the metal (glass blob) on the
blowpipe is dipped into another color of molton glass, and then the bubble is
blown, shaped, split, and heated so the glass relaxes into a flat sheet.
Glass like this is particularly nice when etching, because you can etch thru
the one color so the other one shows through.  Typically, one layer of glass
in flashed glass will be a good deal more thin than the other. - Cec

Sarah wrote:

> Hi to all, I am trying to identify a piece of glass from a repair I am
> working on. The broken glass is white on the backside, and clear on the
> front side. It's smooth in texture, and if viewed from the side, it appears
> that the clear glass is slightly thicker than the white glass, but the
> overall piece is no thicker than 1/8 inch. Does anyone know what kind of
> glass this is, and who makes it? The supply places I went to locally
> couldn't identify it or match it.
> Any help is greatly appreciated!!
> Sarah
> White Dove Creations
>
> ----
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From owner-glass Wed Feb 13 21:37:54 2002
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From: "Ed Rogers" <ejr929@lvcm.com>
To: <Roxie1824@aol.com>, <CUngv@aol.com>, <arasai@woh.rr.com>,
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: Re: Need Help (Bungi)
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 16:24:00 -0800
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Good thinking, Roxie.  So who's in charge?  And can that person fix the =
problem?

=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
Email from Ed Rogers
ejr929@LVCM.com
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D

  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Roxie1824@aol.com=20
  To: CUngv@aol.com ; arasai@woh.rr.com ; glass@bungi.com=20
  Sent: Monday, February 11, 2002 9:26 AM
  Subject: Re: Need Help (Bungi)


  I agree with this suggestion wholeheartedly.  Many times I receive =
messages and have no idea they are from the Bungi group.  I think it =
would be helpful if we all included the word "Bungi" in our subject line =
in the future.=20

  I would also greatly appreciate it, if when a question is posted to =
the group - the response ALSO goes out to the entire group.  Many times =
I have read an excellent question on here - but then the people who =
respond to the question ONLY respond to the person asking it - instead =
of to the entire group.  I have learned so much from the knowledgeable =
people on Bungi - but I am sure I have missed out on a great deal of =
your tips and suggestions for this reason.  =20

  Thanks to all of you and I look forward to sharing your insight :)=20

  Loret=20
  Michigan=20

------=_NextPart_000_00A3_01C1B4AA.D7BCF710
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2712.300" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=3DTahoma size=3D2>Good thinking, Roxie.&nbsp; So =
who's in=20
charge?&nbsp; And can that person fix the problem?</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=3DTahoma =
size=3D2>=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D<BR>Email from Ed=20
Rogers<BR><A=20
href=3D"mailto:ejr929@LVCM.com">ejr929@LVCM.com</A><BR>=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D<BR></FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A title=3DRoxie1824@aol.com=20
  href=3D"mailto:Roxie1824@aol.com">Roxie1824@aol.com</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=3DCUngv@aol.com=20
  href=3D"mailto:CUngv@aol.com">CUngv@aol.com</A> ; <A =
title=3Darasai@woh.rr.com=20
  href=3D"mailto:arasai@woh.rr.com">arasai@woh.rr.com</A> ; <A=20
  title=3Dglass@bungi.com =
href=3D"mailto:glass@bungi.com">glass@bungi.com</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Monday, February 11, 2002 =
9:26=20
  AM</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: Need Help =
(Bungi)</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT lang=3D0 =
face=3D"Comic Sans MS"=20
  color=3D#8000ff size=3D2 FAMILY=3D"SCRIPT">I agree with this =
suggestion=20
  wholeheartedly. &nbsp;Many times I receive messages and have no idea =
they are=20
  from the Bungi group. &nbsp;I think it would be helpful if we all =
included the=20
  word "Bungi" in our subject line in the future. <BR><BR>I would also =
greatly=20
  appreciate it, if when a question is posted to the group - the =
response ALSO=20
  goes out to the entire group. &nbsp;Many times I have read an =
excellent=20
  question on here - but then the people who respond to the question =
ONLY=20
  respond to the person asking it - instead of to the entire group. =
&nbsp;I have=20
  learned so much from the knowledgeable people on Bungi - but I am sure =
I have=20
  missed out on a great deal of your tips and suggestions for this =
reason.=20
  &nbsp; <BR><BR>Thanks to all of you and I look forward to sharing your =
insight=20
  :) <BR><BR>Loret <BR>Michigan</FONT> =
</FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-glass Thu Feb 14 00:47:55 2002
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From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: bungi:Fire polishing
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 08:18:40 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@verrier>
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Precedence: bulk

Christie,
        Fire polishing is taking the glass to its softening point.  The
temperature is dependent on the glass and is above the slumping point,
but below the fusing point.  A little experimentation on the kind of
glass you intend to use will determine the temperature to be used.  A
lot of visual checking of the glass while firing is needed so you can
see when the glass smoothes out. Then turn the kiln off, if you are
using a small piece.  If you are using a larger piece, you must anneal
it.

Steve

In message <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com>, Christie A. Wood
<Ensembles@compuserve.com> writes
>Message text written by "studio@stainedglass.co.uk"
>>After sandblasting the flashed glass away to leave letters or numbers we=
>
>often get rid of the frosted finish by fire-polishing it.<
>
>Would someone please give a detailed explaination of what "fire polishing=
>"
>is?  Thanks.
>
>Christie A. Wood
>Art Glass Ensembles
>Denton, TX
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
----
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From owner-glass Thu Feb 14 02:24:11 2002
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From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@comcast.net>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type=54455854;
Subject: enamals?
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 01:46:48 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net>
Organization: Grendel Studio
Precedence: bulk

I have the Reusche "starter" kit, but I'm going to need some colors, as
well - preferably transparent, and want the fired kind.

There are three or four manufacturers, but I have no idea which is best
or does it matter?  And I don't usually see much in the way of paint or
enamals, other than that cold Magic Color stuff, or the French Pebeo in
your oven stuff (Not that that doesn't have its place - see Centre de
Verre's good opinion of Pebeo).  So if you recommend one kind, please
tell me where I can buy it.

Is it possible that one manufacturer would do one or two colors best,
while another does some other colors best, just as with glass
manufacturers - where only a few do the gold reds?

Thanks - Cecily

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From owner-glass Thu Feb 14 05:09:37 2002
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: "studio@stainedglass.co.uk" <studio@stainedglass.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Abrading flashed glass in the past
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 08:15:13 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@verrier>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@stainedglass.co.uk>>
Precedence: bulk

Elizabeth,
        I still do things this way.  You mean there are newer ways to do
it!?
:-)

Steve

In message <1970Jan1.000.0@stainedglass.co.uk>,
studio@stainedglass.co.uk <studio@stainedglass.co.uk> writes
>At 19:44 12/02/2002 +0000, Steve wrote:
>>        In medieval times, when flashed glass was invented to lighten
>>the dark pot metal colours, the colour was abraded off, and then
>>polished.  Hard work now, but it must have taken days without power
>>tools.
>>
>
>The gentleman from whom my husband learned the techniques of lead came work
>often told us how he used to have to help produce all his firm's frosted
>glass after the first world war.  
>The apprentices used to spend days with fine grit and a slab of thick glass
>with a handle stuck on it and literally grind away at large sheets of clear
>glass to produce a finely frosted 'ground glass' for privacy in bathrooms etc!
>This was of course interspersed with a far more relaxing job - that of
>cementing the finished leaded windows by using a very runny 'cement' and
>pouring it over the panel, letting it dry then turning the panel over and
>repeating the process over and over again till it all dried.  Then the fun
>of cleaning it up of course!  They were taught this was the only way to
>ensure all nooks and crannies between the glass and lead were filled properly.
>
>Regards
>EliZabeth in Bournemouth (UK)
>Bournemouth Stained Glass
>http://www.stainedglass.co.uk
>UK Charter Member RAGS
>
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
----
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From owner-glass Thu Feb 14 06:43:38 2002
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Frank Mizzi <frankgmizzi@hotmail.com>
Subject: Hydrofluoroic acid (was: BUNGI Re: Etching flashed glass (was:White on Clear Flash Glass)
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 08:21:21 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@verrier>
References: <<F92fqpvDpz1REgeqWn60001a676@hotmail.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Thanks, Frank for re-inforcing the dangers of HF acid.  Proper
protective clothing, respirators, and ventilation are required.  Be
scared of the stuff at all times.

Steve

In message <F92fqpvDpz1REgeqWn60001a676@hotmail.com>, Frank Mizzi
<frankgmizzi@hotmail.com> writes
>
>
>Greetings,
>
>Just wanted to make a small note since Hydroflouric (HF) Acid was mentioned. 
>  Please be advised that it is a very nasty substance.  It is a restricted 
>substance in some staes in Australia.
>
>Solutions of grester than 60% of the acid can cause almost immediate burns 
>that can be slow to hael and may even affect bone.  Lower concentrations can 
>cause slow ulceration.
>
>Inhalation of fumes is also dangerous.
>
>If you use it be sure to get hold of an up to date MSDS and read it 
>carefully.
>
>FGM
>>From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
>>To: CncptThnkr@aol.com
>>Subject: Etching flashed glass (was:White on Clear Flash Glass)
>>Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 19:44:11 +0000
>>
>>Pat, et al,
>>
>>Flashed glass is an excellent medium for expressing detail that cannot
>>be done with lead or foil lines.  Very advanced painterly effects can be
>>achieved by the use of hydrofluoric acid, which erodes the colour giving
>>only a tint of the original or even a clear area beside the coloured
>>one.  It can be combined with painting to give highly detailed results.
>>
>>Hydrofluoric acid is a very nasty chemical that is dangerous to life in
>>small quantities, so many precautions are required.
>>
>>So sandblasting is not the only way to get the colour off.  In any case
>>if you experimented with blasting off the white and compared the non
>>blasted area, you would see very different qualities of light coming
>>through.
>>         In medieval times, when flashed glass was invented to lighten
>>the dark pot metal colours, the colour was abraded off, and then
>>polished.  Hard work now, but it must have taken days without power
>>tools.
>>
>>Steve
>>
>>
>>In message <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>, CncptThnkr@aol.com writes
>> >Hello all,
>> >
>> >I assumed it was flash glass also but I have a question (or quite a few
>> >questions <grin>).  Of what use would clear/white flash glass be?  When 
>>you sand
>> >blast the surface glass, which I assume is the white, you'd "frost" the 
>>clear
>> >glass and have a "white frosted" etched design on a white surface.  
>>Wouldn't it
>> >be extremely low contrast?  Would the benefit be a design that was seen 
>>by
>> >changing the amount of light filtering in?  Just curious.
>> >
>> >Pat
>> >----
>> >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>> >To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>> >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>>
>>--
>>Steve Richard
>>Verrier Art Glass Ltd
>>s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
>>----
>>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
>

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
----
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From owner-glass Thu Feb 14 08:15:17 2002
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X-Path: mindspring.com!redswanne
From: "redswanne@mindspring.com" <redswanne@mindspring.com>
To: "cecnralph@comcast.net" <cecnralph@comcast.net>, "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE: enamals?
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 07:57:48 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@mindspring.com>
Precedence: bulk

I would like to see the answers to this as well.

Jean
North Carolina

Original Message:
-----------------
From: Cecily & Ralph Wood cecnralph@comcast.net
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 01:46:48 -0500
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: enamals?


I have the Reusche "starter" kit, but I'm going to need some colors, as
well - preferably transparent, and want the fired kind.

There are three or four manufacturers, but I have no idea which is best
or does it matter?  And I don't usually see much in the way of paint or
enamals, other than that cold Magic Color stuff, or the French Pebeo in
your oven stuff (Not that that doesn't have its place - see Centre de
Verre's good opinion of Pebeo).  So if you recommend one kind, please
tell me where I can buy it.

Is it possible that one manufacturer would do one or two colors best,
while another does some other colors best, just as with glass
manufacturers - where only a few do the gold reds?

Thanks - Cecily

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--------------------------------------------------------------------
mail2web - Check your email from the web at
http://mail2web.com/ .

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From owner-glass Thu Feb 14 08:48:28 2002
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Sarah <arasai@woh.rr.com>
Subject: Glass question summary and replying to all
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 22:32:26 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@verrier>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@woh.rr.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Sarah,
        Thanks for your summary.

On replying, every email programme should have a button to press that
says "reply to all".  This is all that is needed to get your message to
everyone.
In message <1970Jan1.000.0@woh.rr.com>, Sarah <arasai@woh.rr.com> writes
>Hello again, fellow Bungians! It was suggested that I summarize the answers
>I received about my question on trying to identify a piece of glass I need
>to replace. Here goes!
>The glass is 1/8 inch thick, and is white glass fused to clear glass. It's
>called "flashed glass" and is still available, but probably has to be
>ordered.
>Someone asked about sand-blasting this glass, which is all I had thought it
>was used for, but I am repairing a older lamp shade, and that was the piece
>that was broken. One supplier I took it to couldn't identify it, but sold me
>some Spectrum 305, which is in no way what-so-ever a close match! When I cut
>the replacement flower from the 305, it was a glaring difference!
>We live and learn....
>Here comes my own opinion, but after reading the various emails about
>message lines, if my message line doesn't say "glass" (like the one on this
>message...) then I will put "Bungi" in the message line. Most likely,
>something like "Bungians...Help!!!"  ;o)
>  I do wish that we could all get the same messages, it's frustrating to see
>a question that I can relate to, then never get to see the answers, which I
>know from experience are many, and rich with knowledge and friendship!
>
>Well, that's about as windy as I can get this late at night,
>Thanks to all once again, for being there when I need help!
>Sarah
>White Dove Creations
>
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
----
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From owner-glass Thu Feb 14 11:27:39 2002
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X-Path: northlights.co.uk!toby
From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Need Help (Bungi)
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 13:15:24 -0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@northlights.co.uk>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Dear All,

"In the Olden Days" of Bungi, there occasionally popped up a small handful
of individuals who either had very short fuses,used imflammatory language,
were a bit "oddball" or just plain rude. Given the fact that Bungi has a
global membership, sparks were flying left,  right and centre. At one stage,
it got so bad, that Glenna (our moderator....and HER that must be obeyed
->  ), took Bungi off the air completely. When Bungi was re-instated, she
and Dave had changed the system, so that everybody had to THINK before they
hit the reply button. With other words, if A responded to something B had
written which had got up A's nose, the likelihood of everyone else having to
suffer the sparks  got more remote. Having to edit who you sent your reply
to, encouraged having to take a breath ..... perhaps then also consider
further editing.
On the whole this has worked.
The cost is,  that interesting questions and replies occasionally don't
reach the group as a whole.

Back to lurkerdom.

EliSabeth 'n Toby in UK
new website:  www.northlights.co.uk


Joan wrote:
>
> Part of the problem lies with the way this list is set
> up.  In order for the answers to be seen by the entire
> list, you either have to click on "reply all" or
> copy/paste the glass@bungi.com address in. I know I am
> used to merely clicking 'reply' and have, at times,
> sent a reply only to the sender, when that was not my
> intention.
>
> I also still receive many blank e-mails.... no text
> whatsoever.  Does this still happen to others???


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From owner-glass Thu Feb 14 11:57:49 2002
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: enamals?
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 18:31:39 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@verrier>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net>>
Precedence: bulk

Cec,
        I think Reusche are the best paints and enamels.  If you buy in
large quantities, you can buy direct from its Denver manufacturing HQ.
The Jayne Houston company in Boulder (I think) Colorado sell small
quantities.  
        The Reusche enamels have a wide range of firing temperatures and
so are very useful.  Most other enamels have a small range of firing.
They do both transparent and opaque enamels.  They also offer technical
advice upon polite enquiry.
        Look at Dani Greer's article in the IGGA newsletter of last year
for lots of good advice on painting.

Steve


In message <1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net>, Cecily & Ralph Wood
<cecnralph@comcast.net> writes
>I have the Reusche "starter" kit, but I'm going to need some colors, as
>well - preferably transparent, and want the fired kind.
>
>There are three or four manufacturers, but I have no idea which is best
>or does it matter?  And I don't usually see much in the way of paint or
>enamals, other than that cold Magic Color stuff, or the French Pebeo in
>your oven stuff (Not that that doesn't have its place - see Centre de
>Verre's good opinion of Pebeo).  So if you recommend one kind, please
>tell me where I can buy it.
>
>Is it possible that one manufacturer would do one or two colors best,
>while another does some other colors best, just as with glass
>manufacturers - where only a few do the gold reds?
>
>Thanks - Cecily
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
----
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From owner-glass Thu Feb 14 12:31:30 2002
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From: Awbaxter@aol.com
To: cecnralph@comcast.net, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_11c.c5fa190.299d4633_boundary"
Subject: Re: enamals?
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 11:56:19 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>
Precedence: bulk


--part1_11c.c5fa190.299d4633_boundary
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HI Cec,
I highly recommend the book " The Art of Painting on Glass" by Albinus 
Elskus... in it, there is a full chapter (@15 pages) on vitreous glass 
paints, enamels, etc.  He includes brands, color number, descriptions of the 
fired results and his opinions of texture, smoothness, etc.  He also has a 
few colored plates with his fired results of various paints.

This book will answer all of your questions regarding this subject.  It was 
out of print for a while, but Joe Porcelli has reissued it through his GLass 
Library.  It is Item #PNT641, and retails for $24.95 plus shipping.  You can 
order by calling 800-786-8720 or by email: GLASSBOOKS@aol.com.

I hope nobody is offended by this plug... I have no affiliation with the 
Glass Library, but was VERY happy when this book was reissued, as it took me 
more than a year to find a used copy of it.  (I now have a new one!)  And it 
is much-referenced, well worth the purchase price.

Ann

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  COLOR="#004080" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Franklin Gothic Book" LANG="0">HI Cec,<BR>
I highly recommend the book " The Art of Painting on Glass" by Albinus Elskus... in it, there is a full chapter (@15 pages) on vitreous glass paints, enamels, etc.&nbsp; He includes brands, color number, descriptions of the fired results and his opinions of texture, smoothness, etc.&nbsp; He also has a few colored plates with his fired results of various paints.<BR>
<BR>
This book will answer all of your questions regarding this subject.&nbsp; It was out of print for a while, but Joe Porcelli has reissued it through his GLass Library.&nbsp; It is Item #PNT641, and retails for $24.95 plus shipping.&nbsp; You can order by calling 800-786-8720 or by email: GLASSBOOKS@aol.com.<BR>
<BR>
I hope nobody is offended by this plug... I have no affiliation with the Glass Library, but was VERY happy when this book was reissued, as it took me more than a year to find a used copy of it.&nbsp; (I now have a new one!)&nbsp; And it is much-referenced, well worth the purchase price.<BR>
<BR>
Ann</FONT></HTML>

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From owner-glass Thu Feb 14 14:03:20 2002
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From: "Ed Rogers" <ejr929@lvcm.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
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Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 09:06:24 -0800
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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It seems to me that the answer to the current issue of how this group =
could dramatically improve its communications is as follows: =20

If EVERYONE would address ALL questions and responses to =
glass@bungi.com, we could all see both the query and the reply.  A =
clearly phrased "Subject" should be considered mandatory as it would =
help the reader know whether or not the e-mail was of particular =
interest to him/her.

=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
Email from Ed Rogers
ejr929@LVCM.com
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D


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<STYLE></STYLE>
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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DTahoma size=3D2><STRONG>It seems to me that the answer =
to the=20
current issue of&nbsp;how this group could dramatically improve its=20
communications is as follows:&nbsp; </STRONG></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DTahoma size=3D2><STRONG></STRONG></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DTahoma size=3D2><STRONG>If <U>EVERYONE</U> would =
address=20
<U>ALL</U> questions and responses to </STRONG><A=20
href=3D"mailto:glass@bungi.com"><FONT =
size=3D3>glass@bungi.com</FONT></A><STRONG>,=20
we could all see both the query and the reply.&nbsp; A clearly=20
phrased&nbsp;"Subject" should be considered mandatory as it would help =
the=20
reader know whether or not the e-mail was of particular interest to=20
him/her.</STRONG></FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DTahoma =
size=3D2><STRONG>=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D<BR>Email from =
Ed=20
Rogers<BR><A=20
href=3D"mailto:ejr929@LVCM.com">ejr929@LVCM.com</A><BR>=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D<BR></STRONG></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_00CF_01C1B536.E0829440--


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From owner-glass Thu Feb 14 15:05:53 2002
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From: "Suzanne Gunn" <gunnx4@cox.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Bungi
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 07:54:51 -0600
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As far as "who is in charge" here...

That would not be "us".
That would be Dave and Glenna Rand.  There but by the grace of them, we get
Bungi.

The "problem" you are discussing was the fix to a problem in the past.

The group could just more easily respond "re all" to the group,  than to ask
or expect Dave and Glenna to change the list.

We are guests here.

Suzanne

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From owner-glass Thu Feb 14 16:08:02 2002
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From: "Ed Rogers" <ejr929@lvcm.com>
To: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>, <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Need Help (Bungi)
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 15:16:02 -0800
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I beg to differ.  The cost is not, as you say, merely "...that interesting
questions and replies occasionally don't
reach the group as a whole."  The cost is that MOST OFTEN interesting
questions and replies don't reach the group as a whole.

=============
Email from Ed Rogers
ejr929@LVCM.com
=============




----- Original Message -----
From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2002 5:15 AM
Subject: Re: Need Help (Bungi)


> Dear All,
>
> "In the Olden Days" of Bungi, there occasionally popped up a small handful
> of individuals who either had very short fuses,used imflammatory language,
> were a bit "oddball" or just plain rude. Given the fact that Bungi has a
> global membership, sparks were flying left,  right and centre. At one
stage,
> it got so bad, that Glenna (our moderator....and HER that must be obeyed
> ->  ), took Bungi off the air completely. When Bungi was re-instated, she
> and Dave had changed the system, so that everybody had to THINK before
they
> hit the reply button. With other words, if A responded to something B had
> written which had got up A's nose, the likelihood of everyone else having
to
> suffer the sparks  got more remote. Having to edit who you sent your reply
> to, encouraged having to take a breath ..... perhaps then also consider
> further editing.
> On the whole this has worked.
> The cost is,  that interesting questions and replies occasionally don't
> reach the group as a whole.
>
> Back to lurkerdom.
>
> EliSabeth 'n Toby in UK
> new website:  www.northlights.co.uk
>
>
> Joan wrote:
> >
> > Part of the problem lies with the way this list is set
> > up.  In order for the answers to be seen by the entire
> > list, you either have to click on "reply all" or
> > copy/paste the glass@bungi.com address in. I know I am
> > used to merely clicking 'reply' and have, at times,
> > sent a reply only to the sender, when that was not my
> > intention.
> >
> > I also still receive many blank e-mails.... no text
> > whatsoever.  Does this still happen to others???
>
>
> ----
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>


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From owner-glass Thu Feb 14 20:42:54 2002
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From: "Suzanne Gunn" <gunnx4@cox.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Bungi list mail  was Re: Need Help (Bungi)
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 21:50:46 -0600
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Perhaps after this thread people will be more aware of how the list works
and be sure their replies go to the entire list.

Some times a person may *want* to reply only to the person asking the
question.

Suzanne

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From owner-glass Thu Feb 14 20:50:01 2002
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X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: bungi:Fire polishing
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 20:21:33 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com>
Precedence: bulk

Message text written by Steve Richard
>Christie,
        Fire polishing is taking the glass to its softening point.  The
temperature is dependent on the glass and is above the slumping point,
but below the fusing point.  A little experimentation on the kind of
glass you intend to use will determine the temperature to be used.  A
lot of visual checking of the glass while firing is needed so you can
see when the glass smoothes out. Then turn the kiln off, if you are
using a small piece.  If you are using a larger piece, you must anneal
it.<

Steve (et al)...thanks for the info on fire polishing.  I have two kilns
which are in use 6 days a week doing glass bottle slumping.  But I never
have the need to look inside the kiln.  I understand looking inside a ver=
y
hot kiln can ?damage your eyes?  Is this true?  In order to do a lot of
visual checking of the glass during firing, would I need to invest in tho=
se
UV protective glasses?

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
Denton, TX
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From owner-glass Thu Feb 14 21:04:48 2002
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X-Path: aol.com!UserDusty
From: UserDusty@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: Bungi enamals
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 20:03:30 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>
Precedence: bulk

Hi All,

I just picked up some of the Pebeo paints to play with.  Color Magic flakes 
off and cannot take direct sunlight.  I got the Pebeo paint at Michael's. The 
price is pretty steep.  You can get it for about half the price if you go to 
www.Dick Blick.com. They carry a lot of art supplies.

Your friend in glass,

Ken O.
Decorative Glass
North East, Pa.
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From owner-glass Thu Feb 14 21:10:35 2002
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From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE: bungi:Fire polishing
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 20:21:29 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com>
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Message text written by "Spitzer, Charlie"
>heating glass until grinding marks have melted down and it's shiny again=

From owner-glass Fri Feb 15 00:57:51 2002
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From: Sherry Greer <texpenguin@yahoo.com>
To: GlassList <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Replying to all
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 09:37:12 -0800 (PST)
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Just a note to point out that NOT every email program has a 'Reply All'
button, as many email programs are completely text based and don't use
the mouse at all.  Also, 'Reply All' results in one person getting that
email twice-addressed solely to him, and addressed to Bungi.  Clutters
up the mailbox.  Most email programs however will let you set up
'nicknames' or shortcuts, where you type in for example 'GlassList'
(mine) or just 'Glass', or even 'GL' and you configure the program to
autochange that to Bungi's address.  
As a footnote, I also receive blank messages (about half of those that
I receive!)  When I first joined the list, I asked the moderator about
this, and he said that I'd have to switch email programs to fix it! 
I'm sure it's not the HTML vs. text thing, as my browser accepts both
types of mail, so it must be a Bungi bug.   I've never had this problem
on any other list I belong to.  
Anyway, Happy Valentine's to all!
Sherry


=====
Sherry Greer
texpenguin@yahoo.com

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Send FREE Valentine eCards with Yahoo! Greetings!
http://greetings.yahoo.com
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From owner-glass Fri Feb 15 05:35:01 2002
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X-Path: pobox.com!nadinesfolly
From: "Nadine Beth Schneider" <nadinesfolly@POBox.com>
To: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE: bungi:Fire polishing
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 08:10:31 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@POBox.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Yes, Christie, by all means invest in a pair of UV
glasses.  You can really damage your eyes looking
at glass in the kiln.  I bought mine from Ed Hoy's.

Nadine

Nadine Beth Schneider
Nadine's Folly, Ltd
www.nadinesfolly.com


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From owner-glass Fri Feb 15 07:09:41 2002
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X-Path: comcast.net!cecnralph
From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@comcast.net>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type=54455854;
Subject: Re: Replying to all (blanks)
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 08:38:56 -0500
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References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>>
Organization: Grendel Studio
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It isn't the problem of just your browser - it is also the problem of
whatever listserv program Glenna and Dave use.  Also, it is possible for
those of us with browsers that handle both types of text/html to
inadvertantly and occassionally trigger a message being sent in html.  I
know I'm occasionally guilty of this - especially in replies where I've
tried to edit previous comments.

Still - it's most annoying, and probably the guilty people are the ones
who cause it are using Eudora which seems to be able to read those
messages, whereas I know that Netscape, although it can handle both, can't
overcome the problem unless you go to display "source" which is very
difficult to read because it is the actual html rather than the formatted
text html is supposed to create.

For the most part, those guilty don't realize there is a problem because
whatever program they are using doesn't come up blank. - Cec

Sherry Greer wrote:

> Just a note to point out that NOT every email program has a 'Reply All'
> button, as many email programs are completely text based and don't use
> the mouse at all.  Also, 'Reply All' results in one person getting that
> email twice-addressed solely to him, and addressed to Bungi.  Clutters
> up the mailbox.  Most email programs however will let you set up
> 'nicknames' or shortcuts, where you type in for example 'GlassList'
> (mine) or just 'Glass', or even 'GL' and you configure the program to
> autochange that to Bungi's address.
> As a footnote, I also receive blank messages (about half of those that
> I receive!)  When I first joined the list, I asked the moderator about
> this, and he said that I'd have to switch email programs to fix it!
> I'm sure it's not the HTML vs. text thing, as my browser accepts both
> types of mail, so it must be a Bungi bug.   I've never had this problem
> on any other list I belong to.
> Anyway, Happy Valentine's to all!
> Sherry
>
> =====
> Sherry Greer
> texpenguin@yahoo.com
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Send FREE Valentine eCards with Yahoo! Greetings!
> http://greetings.yahoo.com
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

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From owner-glass Fri Feb 15 07:25:19 2002
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From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@comcast.net>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type=54455854;
Subject: Re: bungi:Fire polishing
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 09:14:26 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com>>
Organization: Grendel Studio
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Both UV and infrared can damage your eyes, not just the cornea (cataracts)
but also the retina.  Plus there is something called sodium flare which may
not damage your eyes, but makes seeing a bit difficult.  Most normal
eyeglasses that are polyacrylate automatically filter the UV, and occasional
peering into a kiln, or torchwork won't hurt.  However if you are doing a lot
of it, you should get industrial strength protection.  Normal sun glasses
aren't much more protection than your regular eyeplasses or your polyacrylate
safety glasses.

The closer you are to the heated glass, the more protection you need.  Thus
if you are using the very hot torches much, or putting your eye right up to
the kiln peep hole it is more important to be protected.  Also, if you are
opening the kiln door wide enough to sprinkle stuff on the hot glass, or to
drag through the glass with a tool, you probably should use a complete mask
so no sparks get in your face.  When doing torchwork, if your glass isn't the
proper temperature, or you don't control its cooling properly, the glass
literally can explode - which obviously isn't good for your eyes, face, or
any of the rest of you, for that matter.

There is a substance called didymium that helps cut the sodium glare.  You
can get cheap eye protection ($20 or less) with the UV/didymium from most
glass supply places that have any warm glass supplies.  These dark glasses
are good for torchwork - but I have a pair and find it almost impossible to
really see what I'm doing - to even tell where I've laid down a color so I
can create the pattern I want.  (Glass, as it gets hot, begins to glow, and
if you are doing torchwork, it needs to be glowing in order to deform the
glass or make one glass fuse to another.) Darned if I know how really good
torchworkers manage, unless they aren't wearing the eye protection?

To cut the infrared, however, you also need a gold coating.  I only know one
supplier (Schott?) and those tend to be much more expensive ($50 - 100).
Using wielding glasses or a face mask at the 4 or 5 rating is supposed to be
good protection for everything.  I can only assume gold is used in these, but
I've never seen it specifically stated.

Now that I've pontificated, let me also issue a caveat - all this is from
memory from about a year ago when I was researching this topic.  You would do
well to also do a swift search on the internet to make certain I have not
steered you wrong. - Cec

"Christie A. Wood" wrote:

> Message text written by Steve Richard
> >Christie,
>         Fire polishing is taking the glass to its softening point.  The
> temperature is dependent on the glass and is above the slumping point,
> but below the fusing point.  A little experimentation on the kind of
> glass you intend to use will determine the temperature to be used.  A
> lot of visual checking of the glass while firing is needed so you can
> see when the glass smoothes out. Then turn the kiln off, if you are
> using a small piece.  If you are using a larger piece, you must anneal
> it.<
>
> Steve (et al)...thanks for the info on fire polishing.  I have two kilns
> which are in use 6 days a week doing glass bottle slumping.  But I never
> have the need to look inside the kiln.  I understand looking inside a ver=
> y
> hot kiln can ?damage your eyes?  Is this true?  In order to do a lot of
> visual checking of the glass during firing, would I need to invest in tho=
> se
> UV protective glasses?
>
> Christie A. Wood
> Art Glass Ensembles
> Denton, TX
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

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From owner-glass Fri Feb 15 08:03:39 2002
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To: cecnralph@comcast.net, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_11a.c0525ff.299e8817_boundary"
Subject: Re: enamals?
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 10:49:43 EST
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--part1_11a.c0525ff.299e8817_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Okay, here's another plug (I'm sure there are other sources out there):
The S.A. Bendheim Co., out of both Passaic, NJ and Oakland, CA, email: 
info@bendheim.com,
carries 1 oz packets and "bulk" 8 oz packages of all the colors, silver 
stains, enamels, lead free paints and gum arabic with the corresponding 
numbers to Elskus' book.  They carry the book, too, as well as a great line 
of badger brushes, tracers and stipplers.

They are a wholesale only company, but perhaps your retailer could order this 
for you.

Again, I don't work for Bendheim, but have ordered my paints and brushes from 
them for years.  I have a light table set upon a set of drawers, which are 
full of little envelopes of powdered enamels.  For the most part,  you can 
get all the detail you want in glass painting with Tracing Black and shades 
of brown.  Your original color of glass adds the different tones.  I hope 
this helps, Cecily!
Ann

--part1_11a.c0525ff.299e8817_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  COLOR="#004080" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Franklin Gothic Book" LANG="0">Okay, here's another plug (I'm sure there are other sources out there):<BR>
The S.A. Bendheim Co., out of both Passaic, NJ and Oakland, CA, email: info@bendheim.com,<BR>
carries 1 oz packets and "bulk" 8 oz packages of all the colors, silver stains, enamels, lead free paints and gum arabic with the corresponding numbers to Elskus' book.&nbsp; They carry the book, too, as well as a great line of badger brushes, tracers and stipplers.<BR>
<BR>
They are a wholesale only company, but perhaps your retailer could order this for you.<BR>
<BR>
Again, I don't work for Bendheim, but have ordered my paints and brushes from them for years.&nbsp; I have a light table set upon a set of drawers, which are full of little envelopes of powdered enamels.&nbsp; For the most part,&nbsp; you can get all the detail you want in glass painting with Tracing Black and shades of brown.&nbsp; Your original color of glass adds the different tones.&nbsp; I hope this helps, Cecily!<BR>
Ann</FONT></HTML>

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From owner-glass Fri Feb 15 12:46:28 2002
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From: "Suzanne Gunn" <gunnx4@cox.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: eye protection with hot glass
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 12:21:33 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@cox.net>
Organization: glsasdancer
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here is some info from Auralens website

http://www.auralens.com/recommendations.html

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From owner-glass Fri Feb 15 13:48:46 2002
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X-Path: aol.com!Awbaxter
From: Awbaxter@aol.com
To: Ensembles@compuserve.com, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_a4.21381183.299e898c_boundary"
Subject: Re: bungi:Fire polishing
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 10:55:56 EST
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Precedence: bulk


--part1_a4.21381183.299e898c_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
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In a message dated 2/14/2002 11:50:36 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
Ensembles@compuserve.com writes:
> I understand looking inside a very hot kiln can ?damage your eyes?  Is this 
> true?  In order to do a lot of visual checking of the glass during firing, 
> would I need to invest in those UV protective glasses?


In the fall 2000 issue of Common Ground:GLASS, we reprinted an article by 
Monona Rossol, originally published in the April 2000 issue of ACTS FACTS, 
published by the Arts, Crafts and Theater Safety, Inc., regarding the newest 
studies on protective eyewear and hot glass.  You can request a back issue of 
ACTS FACTS for $1.00.  More information on their web site:
http://caseweb.com/acts/publicat.html

Hope this helps.
Ann

--part1_a4.21381183.299e898c_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  COLOR="#004080" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Franklin Gothic Book" LANG="0">In a message dated 2/14/2002 11:50:36 PM Eastern Standard Time, Ensembles@compuserve.com writes:<BR>
</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">I understand looking inside a very hot kiln can ?damage your eyes?&nbsp; Is this true?&nbsp; In order to do a lot of visual checking of the glass during firing, would I need to invest in those UV protective glasses?</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#004080" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Franklin Gothic Book" LANG="0"><BR>
</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">In the fall 2000 issue of Common Ground:GLASS, we reprinted an article by Monona Rossol, originally published in the April 2000 issue of ACTS FACTS, published by the Arts, Crafts and Theater Safety, Inc., regarding the newest studies on protective eyewear and hot glass.&nbsp; You can request a back issue of ACTS FACTS for $1.00.&nbsp; More information on their web site:<BR>
</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">http://caseweb.com/acts/publicat.html<BR>
</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#004080" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Franklin Gothic Book" LANG="0"><BR>
Hope this helps.<BR>
Ann</FONT></HTML>

--part1_a4.21381183.299e898c_boundary--
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From owner-glass Fri Feb 15 15:22:35 2002
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X-Path: uaemail.com!belloraph
From: <belloraph@uaemail.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1256"
Subject: urgent assistance
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 17:55:23 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@uaemail.com>
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ATTN: THE PRESIDENT	

    
     REQUEST FOR ASSISTANCE- STRICTLY CONFIDENTIAL
I am Dr Raphael Bello, an accountant in the Ministry
of petroleum Resources (MPR) and a member of a
seven-man Tender Board in charge of contract reviewand payment
 approvals.
I came to know of you in my search for a reliable
person to handle a very confidential transaction that
involves the transfer of a huge sum of money to a
foreign account. It may sound strange but exercise
patience and read on. There were series of contracts
executed by a Consortium Multinational in the Oil
industry in favor of Ministry of Petroleum Resourcesamong which were:
1.The extension of pipeline network within Nigeria for
crude oil, Down stream products distribution and
subsequent evacuation- US$ 195Million.
2.Contract for the Turn Around Maintenance (TAM) of
the various refineries in the country~US$ 152 Million.
3.The construction of storage tanks for petroleum
products (Depots)~US$240 Million.
The original values of this contract were deliberately
over invoiced to the sum of   US $35.5million American
Dollars which has now been approved and is now ready
to be transferred being that the companies that
actually executed these contracts has been fully paid
and project officially commissioned.
Consequently, my colleagues and I are willing to
transfer the total amount to your account for
subsequent disbursement since we are Civil Servant and
are prohibited by the Code of Conduct Bureau ( Civil
Servant Laws) from opening/ operating foreign accountin our names.
Needless to say, the trust posed on you at this
juncture is enormous. In return, we have agreed to
offer you 20% of the transferred sum while 10% shall
be set aside for accidental expenses (Internal &External)
between the parties in the course of the transfer. We
will mandate you to draw up an investment plan for us
of which you will control since we cannot bring our
shares back to Nigeria. We are very interested in
investing in real estate in your country.
You must however note that this transaction is
subjected to the following terms and conditions:
1.	Our conviction of your transparent honesty anddiligence.
2.	 That you would treat this transaction with utmost
secrecy and confidentiality because of thecircumstances we now find
 ourselves.
3.	That the funds would be transferred to an account
over which you have absolute control.
Modalities have been worked out at the highest level
of the presidency at the Central Bank of Nigeria for
the immediate transfer of the funds within 14 working
days, subject to your satisfaction of the above stated
terms. Our assurance is that your role is 100% riskfree.
 To accord this transaction, the legality it deserves
and for mutual security of the parties involved and
the funds, the whole approval procedures  will be
officially and legally processed with your name or the
name of your company you may nominate as the bonafidebeneficiary.
Also, be informed that our main reason of contacting
you is for the obvious reason that we will want to
invest these funds in the real estate. It is our
believe that you can be of immense help in thisregards.
Kindly expedite action so as to enable us include this
transaction into this batch as payment to foreign
contractors is usually carried out on quarterly basis.
Please, contact me as soon as possible on my private
e-mail address:belloraph19 @yahoo.com

Best regards,
DR. Raphael Bello.

_________________________________________
Download mersal and add me as a friend :) 
http://www.arabia.com/mersal/english
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From owner-glass Fri Feb 15 15:56:11 2002
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X-Path: telus.net!wayneglass
From: "Wayne R. Munro" <wayneglass@telus.net>
To: "Glass Club" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: Fw: need help (Bungi)
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 07:40:04 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@telus.net>
Precedence: bulk

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_00A8_01C1B5F3.FB5952A0
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable


Hi gang...I have stayed out of this up til now, but I feel I must agree =
with almost all that has been said. I have been fortunate to learn from =
the group (and it is rare to have so many people willing to help others =
without 'payment up front') The resourses are endless and more valuable =
than any book or video. The problem before was someone would ask a =
question and if some inconsiderate person didn't like the question or =
wanted to pretend they were so much smarter, then they would flame the =
world. (All they really had to do if they weren't interested or =
disagreed, was hit delete.) We all just have to sit back and remember, =
we all learned from someone or by committing expensive mistakes. Chill =
out, flamers, Everyone who asks a question has the right to the respect =
of a decent and civil answer (or to be respectfully ignored). Just =
because it isn't important to the flamer, it sure is to many others, =
especially the one who asked.=20
It has been a pleasure to learn form you all, and to occasionally pass =
on my "wit" and 2 bits worth as well as any help I can; it would be a =
shame to loose the resource of this "club" because some people can't =
chill out or find the 'delete' key on their keyboard.

Wayne

------=_NextPart_000_00A8_01C1B5F3.FB5952A0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2712.300" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Hi gang...I have stayed out of this up =
til now, but=20
I feel I must agree with almost all that has been said. I have been =
fortunate to=20
learn from the group (and it is rare to have so many people willing to =
help=20
others without 'payment up front') The resourses are endless and more =
valuable=20
than any book or video. The problem before was someone would ask a =
question and=20
if some inconsiderate person didn't like the question or wanted to =
pretend they=20
were so much smarter, then they would flame the world. (<STRONG>All they =
really=20
had to do if they weren't interested or disagreed, was hit =
delete</STRONG>.) We=20
all just have to sit back and remember, we all learned from someone or =
by=20
committing expensive mistakes. Chill out, flamers, Everyone who asks a =
question=20
has the right to the respect of a decent and civil answer (or to be =
respectfully=20
ignored). Just because it isn't important to the flamer, it sure is to =
many=20
others, especially the one who asked. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>It has been a pleasure to learn form =
you all, and=20
to occasionally pass on my "wit" and 2 bits worth as well as any help I =
can; it=20
would be a shame to loose the resource of this "club" because some =
people can't=20
chill out or find the 'delete' key on their keyboard.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Wayne</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_00A8_01C1B5F3.FB5952A0--

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From owner-glass Fri Feb 15 16:59:01 2002
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	for rglass-42; Fri, 15 Feb 2002 16:32:41 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: cox.net!gunnx4
From: "Suzanne Gunn" <gunnx4@cox.net>
To: "Cecily & Ralph Wood" <cecnralph@comcast.net>,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: bungi:Fire polishing
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 12:11:05 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@cox.net>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net>>
Organization: glsasdancer
Precedence: bulk

Cec...

The eye glasses dont keep you from seeing. The glow of the melted glass is
what keeps you from seeing.  All the colors look the same when they are red
hot.  Red and orange are black when hot but not molten, yellow looks red
etc...
You just need to remember what colors you are using where.

When you cant tell what you've got where, you only need to let the glass
cool a tiny bit to see the differences.

Dont *ever* lampwork without the proper protective eyewear.  I think it's
very irresponsible to tell some one it's ok to lampwork anytime without the
proper eyewear.  As far as looking into my kiln...if nothing else I dont
want to burn my eyelashes off! ;o)

You can go to http://www.auralens.com/ and know that you are getting quality
protective eyewear and great customer service.

Suzanne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Cecily & Ralph Wood" <cecnralph@comcast.net>
To: "Bungi Glass" <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Friday, February 15, 2002 8:14 AM
Subject: Re: bungi:Fire polishing


>
> Both UV and infrared can damage your eyes, not just the cornea (cataracts)
> but also the retina.  Plus there is something called sodium flare which
may
> not damage your eyes, but makes seeing a bit difficult.  Most normal
> eyeglasses that are polyacrylate automatically filter the UV, and
occasional
> peering into a kiln, or torchwork won't hurt.  However if you are doing a
lot
> of it, you should get industrial strength protection.  Normal sun glasses
> aren't much more protection than your regular eyeplasses or your
polyacrylate
> safety glasses.
>
> The closer you are to the heated glass, the more protection you need.
Thus
> if you are using the very hot torches much, or putting your eye right up
to
> the kiln peep hole it is more important to be protected.  Also, if you are
> opening the kiln door wide enough to sprinkle stuff on the hot glass, or
to
> drag through the glass with a tool, you probably should use a complete
mask
> so no sparks get in your face.  When doing torchwork, if your glass isn't
the
> proper temperature, or you don't control its cooling properly, the glass
> literally can explode - which obviously isn't good for your eyes, face, or
> any of the rest of you, for that matter.
>
> There is a substance called didymium that helps cut the sodium glare.  You
> can get cheap eye protection ($20 or less) with the UV/didymium from most
> glass supply places that have any warm glass supplies.  These dark glasses
> are good for torchwork - but I have a pair and find it almost impossible
to
> really see what I'm doing - to even tell where I've laid down a color so I
> can create the pattern I want.  (Glass, as it gets hot, begins to glow,
and
> if you are doing torchwork, it needs to be glowing in order to deform the
> glass or make one glass fuse to another.) Darned if I know how really good
> torchworkers manage, unless they aren't wearing the eye protection?
>
> To cut the infrared, however, you also need a gold coating.  I only know
one
> supplier (Schott?) and those tend to be much more expensive ($50 - 100).
> Using wielding glasses or a face mask at the 4 or 5 rating is supposed to
be
> good protection for everything.  I can only assume gold is used in these,
but
> I've never seen it specifically stated.
>
> Now that I've pontificated, let me also issue a caveat - all this is from
> memory from about a year ago when I was researching this topic.  You would
do
> well to also do a swift search on the internet to make certain I have not
> steered you wrong. - Cec
>
> "Christie A. Wood" wrote:
>
> > Message text written by Steve Richard
> > >Christie,
> >         Fire polishing is taking the glass to its softening point.  The
> > temperature is dependent on the glass and is above the slumping point,
> > but below the fusing point.  A little experimentation on the kind of
> > glass you intend to use will determine the temperature to be used.  A
> > lot of visual checking of the glass while firing is needed so you can
> > see when the glass smoothes out. Then turn the kiln off, if you are
> > using a small piece.  If you are using a larger piece, you must anneal
> > it.<
> >
> > Steve (et al)...thanks for the info on fire polishing.  I have two kilns
> > which are in use 6 days a week doing glass bottle slumping.  But I never
> > have the need to look inside the kiln.  I understand looking inside a
ver=
> > y
> > hot kiln can ?damage your eyes?  Is this true?  In order to do a lot of
> > visual checking of the glass during firing, would I need to invest in
tho=
> > se
> > UV protective glasses?
> >
> > Christie A. Wood
> > Art Glass Ensembles
> > Denton, TX
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
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>

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From owner-glass Fri Feb 15 18:32:15 2002
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	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: telus.net!wayneglass
From: "Wayne R. Munro" <wayneglass@telus.net>
To: <cecnralph@comcast.net>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: blank emails
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 18:22:07 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@telus.net>
References: <<3C6DBCEB.5C238F26@comcast.net>>
Precedence: bulk

Cecilly:
OK lets try this. I will respond to you as well as the list. I sent the
original post this morning and it. Didn't even come back to me.  May be a
clue there.  I still haven't got my own post. Just your reply. (Must be a
ghost in here!!) I am using Outlook Express 6. Just sending normally, no one
else seems to be having trouble getting my mail outside the list. I would be
suspicious of the server or set up at source. I will send my original post
to you only rather than to the bungi. (Let me know how it works.

Wayne


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From owner-glass Fri Feb 15 20:02:52 2002
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	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: comcast.net!cecnralph
From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@comcast.net>
To: "Wayne R. Munro" <wayneglass@telus.net>, Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: blank emails
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 21:00:59 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@telus.net>>
Organization: Grendel Studio
Precedence: bulk

Hi Wayne and List:

 Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 07:40:04 -0800
 From: "Wayne R. Munro" <wayneglass@telus.net>
 Subject:  Fw: need help (Bungi)
 To: Glass Club <glass@bungi.com>

I wonder if we can really track down the causes of the blank emails, so
we can tell people what they can do to avoid this happening.  It so
happens that for me, this email was blank.  All I see is

"Wayne R. Munro" wrote:

If I ask my Mac Netscape 4.79 to view as source, I see a number of
things (besides the message) which might be clues.  Although I am a
"techie", my area is not communications, so I may be picking up the
wrong clues.  But if we look at these problematical messages carefully
we may be able to tell people how to avoid sending messages some cannot
read.

So, Wayne you are chosen as our first guinea pig simply because you were
unlucky enough to post to the list after I decided to see if we couldn't
REALLY solve things, rather than just complaining.  Would you please
post to the list again, and tell us what email program and version you
are using?  Examples might be Netscape, Outlook Express, Eudora, and
there are many more.  And, group - if you had no problem reading Wayne's
message, would you please send a note to the list giving your email
program and version and telling us you could read Wayne's post.
Likewise, if you could not read Wayne's post, also send to the list and
tell us you had a problem, and what email program and version you were
using. Do tell us what operating system you use, also (Mac 6.1 or Mac
9.2.2 or Mac 10.2, MS-DOS, Windows 98, Windows 2000, etc.)  Plus, if you
use AOL, tell us and what version of that (4, 6, etc.)

Needless to say - if someone has already reported your email program and
the result you had, don't bother to send a message.  Those of you who
are bored with this can simply delete any posts with Re: blank emails.

Now, when I view the long header that came with this post, I see several
things that might be clues although I'm not certain what they mean.  I
do know that Mozilla is associated with Netscape:

Content-type: multipart/alternative
Precedence: bulk
X-Path: telus.net!wayneglass
X-Mozilla-Status: 8001
X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000
X-UIDL: 536-1010680534

Then we have a bit more before the body of the message shows:

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_00A8_01C1B5F3.FB5952A0
Content-Type: text/plain;
        charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Note where it says "Content-Type: text/plain:".  At that point Netscape
then prints the body of the message in plain text, except for displaying
= at the end of lines - which I take to be soft returns as the text
wordwraps.  Then below this easily read part comes some more information
which I take to be another clue:

------=_NextPart_000_00A8_01C1B5F3.FB5952A0
Content-Type: text/html;
        charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Now Netscape repeats the body of the message, but it looks rather like
this:

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2712.300" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Hi gang...I have stayed out of this up
=
til now, but=20
I feel I must agree with almost all that has been said. I have been =
fortunate to=20...etc. etc. etc.

Note that here the Content-Type is text/html in the space before the
message - and all the stuff in the message header that nobody ever sees
in a message like "meta" "style" "/head" "body".  In other words this is
written in html and all this stuff at the beginning is formatting
information, and when we actually get into the body, instead of the soft
return being =, it is now =20.  I'm going to show a bit more of the text
so you can see how formatting can be inserted in the middle of text.

it sure is to =
many=20
others, especially the one who asked. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>It has been a pleasure to learn

I think here those of you who see the message see both a font and size
change.

Once we collect a few of these "blank" messages, see what email programs
produce them, and can read and can't read them, we can then zero in on
the settings we use in our email programs.  I may need to change my
settings or some others may need to change theirs.

The list has 3 choices:  Do this on the list - or send privately to me -
or tell me to drop the whole thing and not another word about it!!!  OK?
- Cecily
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From owner-glass Fri Feb 15 22:08:57 2002
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	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: doorpi.net!mmam5
From: "Marci" <mmam5@doorpi.net>
To: "Cecily & Ralph Wood" <cecnralph@comcast.net>,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: blank emails and Bungi Opportunities!!
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 22:32:25 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@doorpi.net>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net>>
Precedence: bulk

Hi Cecily,

I got Wayne's email in the format you received it - -I figure it was just a
different format or program than mine - weird - but I use outlook 6 too!
Wayne your second message came thru fine! I haven't received any empty
posts, but then if it didn't say bungi or glass and looked like junk mail, I
may have just deleted them.

Love hearing from everyone. . . Just wish I had more time to expand into
some of these new opportunities I'm reading about!!  :)

Thanks!

Marci
Martin Designs

----- Original Message -----
From: "Cecily & Ralph Wood" <cecnralph@comcast.net>
To: "Wayne R. Munro" <wayneglass@telus.net>; "Bungi Glass" <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Friday, February 15, 2002 8:00 PM
Subject: blank emails


> Hi Wayne and List:
>
>  Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 07:40:04 -0800
>  From: "Wayne R. Munro" <wayneglass@telus.net>
>  Subject:  Fw: need help (Bungi)
>  To: Glass Club <glass@bungi.com>
>
> I wonder if we can really track down the causes of the blank emails, so
> we can tell people what they can do to avoid this happening.  It so
> happens that for me, this email was blank.  All I see is
>
> "Wayne R. Munro" wrote:
>
> If I ask my Mac Netscape 4.79 to view as source, I see a number of
> things (besides the message) which might be clues.  Although I am a
> "techie", my area is not communications, so I may be picking up the
> wrong clues.  But if we look at these problematical messages carefully
> we may be able to tell people how to avoid sending messages some cannot
> read.
>
> So, Wayne you are chosen as our first guinea pig simply because you were
> unlucky enough to post to the list after I decided to see if we couldn't
> REALLY solve things, rather than just complaining.  Would you please
> post to the list again, and tell us what email program and version you
> are using?  Examples might be Netscape, Outlook Express, Eudora, and
> there are many more.  And, group - if you had no problem reading Wayne's
> message, would you please send a note to the list giving your email
> program and version and telling us you could read Wayne's post.
> Likewise, if you could not read Wayne's post, also send to the list and
> tell us you had a problem, and what email program and version you were
> using. Do tell us what operating system you use, also (Mac 6.1 or Mac
> 9.2.2 or Mac 10.2, MS-DOS, Windows 98, Windows 2000, etc.)  Plus, if you
> use AOL, tell us and what version of that (4, 6, etc.)
>
> Needless to say - if someone has already reported your email program and
> the result you had, don't bother to send a message.  Those of you who
> are bored with this can simply delete any posts with Re: blank emails.
>
> Now, when I view the long header that came with this post, I see several
> things that might be clues although I'm not certain what they mean.  I
> do know that Mozilla is associated with Netscape:
>
> Content-type: multipart/alternative
> Precedence: bulk
> X-Path: telus.net!wayneglass
> X-Mozilla-Status: 8001
> X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000
> X-UIDL: 536-1010680534
>
> Then we have a bit more before the body of the message shows:
>
> This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
>
> ------=_NextPart_000_00A8_01C1B5F3.FB5952A0
> Content-Type: text/plain;
>         charset="iso-8859-1"
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
>
> Note where it says "Content-Type: text/plain:".  At that point Netscape
> then prints the body of the message in plain text, except for displaying
> = at the end of lines - which I take to be soft returns as the text
> wordwraps.  Then below this easily read part comes some more information
> which I take to be another clue:
>
> ------=_NextPart_000_00A8_01C1B5F3.FB5952A0
> Content-Type: text/html;
>         charset="iso-8859-1"
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
>
> Now Netscape repeats the body of the message, but it looks rather like
> this:
>
> <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
> <HTML><HEAD>
> <META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
> charset=3Diso-8859-1">
> <META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2712.300" name=3DGENERATOR>
> <STYLE></STYLE>
> </HEAD>
> <BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Hi gang...I have stayed out of this up
> =
> til now, but=20
> I feel I must agree with almost all that has been said. I have been =
> fortunate to=20...etc. etc. etc.
>
> Note that here the Content-Type is text/html in the space before the
> message - and all the stuff in the message header that nobody ever sees
> in a message like "meta" "style" "/head" "body".  In other words this is
> written in html and all this stuff at the beginning is formatting
> information, and when we actually get into the body, instead of the soft
> return being =, it is now =20.  I'm going to show a bit more of the text
> so you can see how formatting can be inserted in the middle of text.
>
> it sure is to =
> many=20
> others, especially the one who asked. </FONT></DIV>
> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>It has been a pleasure to learn
>
> I think here those of you who see the message see both a font and size
> change.
>
> Once we collect a few of these "blank" messages, see what email programs
> produce them, and can read and can't read them, we can then zero in on
> the settings we use in our email programs.  I may need to change my
> settings or some others may need to change theirs.
>
> The list has 3 choices:  Do this on the list - or send privately to me -
> or tell me to drop the whole thing and not another word about it!!!  OK?
> - Cecily
> ----
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> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>


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From owner-glass Fri Feb 15 23:13:27 2002
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	for rglass-42; Fri, 15 Feb 2002 22:50:13 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: gjr
From: gjr@bungi.com (Glenna Rand)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Las Vegas Glass Expo
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 22:48:48 PST
Message-ID: <m16byeQ-0000IkC@daver.bungi.com>
Precedence: bulk

Aloha everyone,
Just wondering who I might look out for at the glass expo this year...
(March)
Who's going??  Jill? Bob? Ann?

see ya there!

-- 
Glenna Rand
gjr@bungi.com
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From owner-glass Sat Feb 16 01:51:19 2002
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	for rglass-42; Sat, 16 Feb 2002 01:26:33 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: comcast.net!cecnralph
From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@comcast.net>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type=54455854;
Subject: Re: blank emails and Bungi Opportunities!!
Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2002 00:38:14 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net>>
Organization: Grendel Studio
Precedence: bulk

Wayne, did you change font or font size when writing that first note? - Cec

Marci, you mean you saw the message with all the additional html tags?  Or you
saw it blank? - Cec

Marci wrote:

> Hi Cecily,
>
> I got Wayne's email in the format you received it - -I figure it was just a
> different format or program than mine - weird - but I use outlook 6 too!
> Wayne your second message came thru fine! I haven't received any empty
> posts, but then if it didn't say bungi or glass and looked like junk mail, I
> may have just deleted them.
>

<snip>

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From owner-glass Sat Feb 16 02:22:28 2002
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	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: home.com!esavad
From: "Mike Savad" <esavad@home.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Change Address
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 22:45:25 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@lvcm.com>>
Precedence: bulk

change my email address to: esavad@comcast.net

thanks


---Mike Savad




----- Original Message -----
From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2002 5:15 AM
Subject: Re: Need Help (Bungi)


> Dear All,
>
> "In the Olden Days" of Bungi, there occasionally popped up a small handful
> of individuals who either had very short fuses,used imflammatory language,
> were a bit "oddball" or just plain rude. Given the fact that Bungi has a
> global membership, sparks were flying left,  right and centre. At one
stage,
> it got so bad, that Glenna (our moderator....and HER that must be obeyed
> ->  ), took Bungi off the air completely. When Bungi was re-instated, she
> and Dave had changed the system, so that everybody had to THINK before
they
> hit the reply button. With other words, if A responded to something B had
> written which had got up A's nose, the likelihood of everyone else having
to
> suffer the sparks  got more remote. Having to edit who you sent your reply
> to, encouraged having to take a breath ..... perhaps then also consider
> further editing.
> On the whole this has worked.
> The cost is,  that interesting questions and replies occasionally don't
> reach the group as a whole.
>
> Back to lurkerdom.
>
> EliSabeth 'n Toby in UK
> new website:  www.northlights.co.uk
>
>
> Joan wrote:
> >
> > Part of the problem lies with the way this list is set
> > up.  In order for the answers to be seen by the entire
> > list, you either have to click on "reply all" or
> > copy/paste the glass@bungi.com address in. I know I am
> > used to merely clicking 'reply' and have, at times,
> > sent a reply only to the sender, when that was not my
> > intention.
> >
> > I also still receive many blank e-mails.... no text
> > whatsoever.  Does this still happen to others???
>
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>


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From owner-glass Sat Feb 16 02:31:49 2002
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	for rglass-42; Sat, 16 Feb 2002 02:17:14 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: comcast.net!cecnralph
From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@comcast.net>
To: "Wayne R. Munro" <wayneglass@telus.net>, Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type=54455854;
Subject: Re: blank emails
Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2002 00:27:26 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net>
References: <<3C6DBCEB.5C238F26@comcast.net>>
Organization: Grendel Studio
Precedence: bulk

Well that was very interesting. I got BOTH of this message - in the inbox and
in Bungi.  Can read it perfectly - both copies.  And when I went to view it in
source, there is only the text message - no html!

I can see the long headers in the messages as normal are slightly different
than in the source.  Here is last part of the long header from the blank
message:
<snip>
Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id
                <m16brq9-0000CQa@daver.bungi.com> for rglass-42;
                Fri, 15 Feb 2002 15:32:29 -0800
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 07:40:04 -0800
From: "Wayne R. Munro" <wayneglass@telus.net>
Subject: Fw: need help (Bungi)
To: Glass Club <glass@bungi.com>
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@telus.net>
Content-type: multipart/alternative
Precedence: bulk
X-Path: telus.net!wayneglass
X-Mozilla-Status: 8003
X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000
X-UIDL: 536-1010680534

Note the Content-type as multipart/alternative

And here is the last part of the long header from the second message:
<snip>

<20020216021615.VHF28817.priv-edtnes09-hme0.telusplanet.net@computer>;
                      Fri, 15 Feb 2002 19:16:15 -0700
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 18:22:07 -0800
From: "Wayne R. Munro" <wayneglass@telus.net>
Subject: Re: blank emails
To: cecnralph@comcast.net
CC: Glass Club <glass@bungi.com>
Message-ID: <000901c1b690$bba23440$cf76b440@bc.hsia.telus.net>
MIME-version: 1.0
X-MIMEOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2600.0000
X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 6.00.2600.0000
Content-type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit
X-Priority: 3
X-MSMail-priority: Normal
References: <1970Jan1.000.0@telus.net> <3C6DBCEB.5C238F26@comcast.net>
X-Mozilla-Status: 8011
X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000
X-UIDL: 542-1010680534

Note there the Character-type is text/plain!!!  Also note that this one states
Microsoft OLEMime, and Outlook Express, and I can tell Wayne is using a PC
because the Content Transfer Encoding is 7 bit and would likely be 8 bit if it
were a Mac.

And you did the exact same thing you did before, except you sent it also to
me?  Isn't that strange?

I know I have my Netscape set to send both html and text - mainly because I
have to use the html formatting setting to send links or embed graphics.
However embedding links should be ok for text messages.  And I think that the
first message was also set to send both types, and the second one was set for
only text.  How curious.  And the long header was taken from the Bungi message,
not the one from inbox (it was the same for all except the path the messages
took.)

I wonder if it is a relay host that is making the difference.  Maybe when it
goes to bungi following one path it gets handled as text, and if it takes a
different path it gets read and passed on as html.  If I have some time
tomorrow, I'll go back through old messages (yes I'm a pack rat) and see if
there is something that looks like a pattern.

Thank you Wayne!!! - Cec

"Wayne R. Munro" wrote:

> Cecilly:
> OK lets try this. I will respond to you as well as the list. I sent the
> original post this morning and it. Didn't even come back to me.  May be a
> clue there.  I still haven't got my own post. Just your reply. (Must be a
> ghost in here!!) I am using Outlook Express 6. Just sending normally, no one
> else seems to be having trouble getting my mail outside the list. I would be
> suspicious of the server or set up at source. I will send my original post
> to you only rather than to the bungi. (Let me know how it works.
>
> Wayne

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From owner-glass Sat Feb 16 07:01:45 2002
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	for rglass-42; Sat, 16 Feb 2002 06:47:23 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: home.com!kristc
From: "Kris" <kristc@home.com>
To: "Glass Club" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE: blank emails
Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2002 07:48:37 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@telus.net>>
Precedence: bulk

This is what I got... plain text followed by the same message in html. I
have MS Outlook 2000 on a PC running Windows 98, comcast cable for an ISP. I
am sending in plain text. Thanks Wayne for being our guinea pig! It will be
nice if we can solve this long standing problem.
Kris

-----Original Message-----
From: Wayne R. Munro [mailto:wayneglass@telus.net]
Sent: Friday, February 15, 2002 10:40 AM
To: Glass Club
Subject: Fw: need help (Bungi)


This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_00A8_01C1B5F3.FB5952A0
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable


Hi gang...I have stayed out of this up til now, but I feel I must agree =
with almost all that has been said. I have been fortunate to learn from =
the group (and it is rare to have so many people willing to help others =
without 'payment up front') The resourses are endless and more valuable =
than any book or video. The problem before was someone would ask a =
question and if some inconsiderate person didn't like the question or =
wanted to pretend they were so much smarter, then they would flame the =
world. (All they really had to do if they weren't interested or =
disagreed, was hit delete.) We all just have to sit back and remember, =
we all learned from someone or by committing expensive mistakes. Chill =
out, flamers, Everyone who asks a question has the right to the respect =
of a decent and civil answer (or to be respectfully ignored). Just =
because it isn't important to the flamer, it sure is to many others, =
especially the one who asked.=20
It has been a pleasure to learn form you all, and to occasionally pass =
on my "wit" and 2 bits worth as well as any help I can; it would be a =
shame to loose the resource of this "club" because some people can't =
chill out or find the 'delete' key on their keyboard.

Wayne

------=_NextPart_000_00A8_01C1B5F3.FB5952A0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2712.300" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Hi gang...I have stayed out of this up =
til now, but=20
I feel I must agree with almost all that has been said. I have been =
fortunate to=20
learn from the group (and it is rare to have so many people willing to =
help=20
others without 'payment up front') The resourses are endless and more =
valuable=20
than any book or video. The problem before was someone would ask a =
question and=20
if some inconsiderate person didn't like the question or wanted to =
pretend they=20
were so much smarter, then they would flame the world. (<STRONG>All they =
really=20
had to do if they weren't interested or disagreed, was hit =
delete</STRONG>.) We=20
all just have to sit back and remember, we all learned from someone or =
by=20
committing expensive mistakes. Chill out, flamers, Everyone who asks a =
question=20
has the right to the respect of a decent and civil answer (or to be =
respectfully=20
ignored). Just because it isn't important to the flamer, it sure is to =
many=20
others, especially the one who asked. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>It has been a pleasure to learn form =
you all, and=20
to occasionally pass on my "wit" and 2 bits worth as well as any help I =
can; it=20
would be a shame to loose the resource of this "club" because some =
people can't=20
chill out or find the 'delete' key on their keyboard.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Wayne</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_00A8_01C1B5F3.FB5952A0--

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From owner-glass Sat Feb 16 07:11:11 2002
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	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: aol.com!CUngv
From: CUngv@aol.com
To: belloraph@uaemail.com, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: urgent assistance(don't bother reading this spam/scam)
Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2002 09:13:13 EST
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Precedence: bulk


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From owner-glass Sat Feb 16 08:07:24 2002
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X-Path: aol.com!Roxie1824
From: Roxie1824@aol.com
To: gjr@bungi.com, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_17e.3ae4b5c.299fdb5e_boundary"
Subject: Re: Las Vegas Glass Expo
Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2002 10:57:18 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>
Precedence: bulk


--part1_17e.3ae4b5c.299fdb5e_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Can you please give me the dates for the Expo in Las Vegas.  It sounds very 
interesting :)

Loret
Michigan

--part1_17e.3ae4b5c.299fdb5e_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  COLOR="#8000ff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SCRIPT" FACE="Comic Sans MS" LANG="0">Can you please give me the dates for the Expo in Las Vegas. &nbsp;It sounds very interesting :)
<BR>
<BR>Loret
<BR>Michigan</FONT></HTML>

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From owner-glass Sat Feb 16 09:08:59 2002
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X-Path: comcast.net!cecnralph
From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@comcast.net>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type=54455854;
Subject: Re: blank emails
Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2002 10:48:40 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net>
References: <<135.982fac6.299f99bd@aol.com>>
Organization: Grendel Studio
Precedence: bulk

Maybe, if we can figure out what goes on with the different email programs, and
the right settings, a spreadsheet or at least some kind of a HowTo could be put
on the website - seems like Dave and Glenna wouldn't mind.

You probably would have to have 2 sets of settings, since you probably use the
built-in AOL mail/software unless one of the kids is already using it, when you
use Outlook Express (that's the mail half of Internet Explorer).

By "right" settings, I'm meaning settings that work for Bungi and all your other
emailings so you don't have to change settings.

CncptThnkr@aol.com wrote:

> Cec,
>
> I hope you can uncover the source of the problems, I use aol or aol.com
> through internet explorer if one of my kids is using my aol account.  I don't
> get many blank messages any more but do see the ones with all the 20's and
> equal signs (formatting) in them.  Now I need to pay attention to under what
> circumstances I am seeing them.  They really are annoying.
>
> Among other things, I am an accounting person, the first thing that came to
> mind was a spreadsheet of who can't read or properly read each other's e mail
> along with what programs they were using.
>
> I just want to let you know I am impressed with your knowledge of so many
> subjects and willingness to help others.  Keep up the good work.
>
> Pat

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From owner-glass Sat Feb 16 09:18:49 2002
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From: "Marci" <mmam5@doorpi.net>
To: "Cecily & Ralph Wood" <cecnralph@comcast.net>,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: blank emails and Bungi Opportunities!!
Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2002 09:44:21 -0600
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Saw it the way you disected it. . . I get a few that way - Ha - I was
thinking they were just coming from a foreign (non-U.S.) country - - guess I
was wrong!!  :)


----- Original Message -----
From: "Cecily & Ralph Wood" <cecnralph@comcast.net>
To: "Bungi Glass" <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Friday, February 15, 2002 11:38 PM
Subject: Re: blank emails and Bungi Opportunities!!


> Wayne, did you change font or font size when writing that first note? -
Cec
>
> Marci, you mean you saw the message with all the additional html tags?  Or
you
> saw it blank? - Cec
>
> Marci wrote:
>
> > Hi Cecily,
> >
> > I got Wayne's email in the format you received it - -I figure it was
just a
> > different format or program than mine - weird - but I use outlook 6 too!
> > Wayne your second message came thru fine! I haven't received any empty
> > posts, but then if it didn't say bungi or glass and looked like junk
mail, I
> > may have just deleted them.
> >
>
> <snip>
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>


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From owner-glass Sat Feb 16 11:15:58 2002
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From: Awbaxter@aol.com
To: Roxie1824@aol.com, gjr@bungi.com, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_162.8f28193.299fe8f1_boundary"
Subject: Re: Las Vegas Glass Expo
Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2002 11:55:13 EST
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It is great, Loret.  March 7-10, 2002.  Here's the web site:
 <A HREF="http://www.glasscraftexpo.com/2002/">Glass Craft Expo 2002</A> 

Let me know if you're going.. 
Ann 
(in Michigan!)

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  COLOR="#004080" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Franklin Gothic Book" LANG="0">It is great, Loret.&nbsp; March 7-10, 2002.&nbsp; Here's the web site:<BR>
 <A HREF="http://www.glasscraftexpo.com/2002/">Glass Craft Expo 2002</A></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#004080" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Franklin Gothic Book" LANG="0"> <BR>
<BR>
Let me know if you're going.. <BR>
Ann <BR>
(in Michigan!)</FONT></HTML>

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From owner-glass Sat Feb 16 11:46:07 2002
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From: GlassLites@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: Las Vegas Glass Expo
Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2002 12:31:52 EST
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The Expo is March 7-10. Lots of classes. And a show room. But the classes are 
what it's about for me.

I'll be there.

Cheryl Lowe
NJ



In a message dated 2/16/02 11:08:00 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
Roxie1824@aol.com writes:

> Can you please give me the dates for the Expo in Las Vegas.  It sounds very 
>  interesting :)
>  
>  Loret
>  Michigan
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From owner-glass Sat Feb 16 12:17:00 2002
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From: "Bobfuses" <Bobfuses@cox.net>
To: "bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
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Subject: Re: Las Vegas Glass Expo
Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2002 07:31:34 -0800
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>>Just wondering who I might look out for at the glass expo this year...
(March)
Who's going??  Jill? Bob? Ann?<<

Thinking about it but no firm plans yet. Will NOT be an exhibitor.

Bob in 92026
Please note new E-mail address of:
 bobfuses@cox.net

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From owner-glass Sat Feb 16 16:56:10 2002
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: bungi:Fire polishing
Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2002 23:19:33 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@verrier>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com>>
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Christie,
        I am not a safety expert, but I find no difficulty in looking
into a kiln at up to 800C (about 16ooF).  The most damage is done at
molten glass temperatures or in lamp work, as far as I read.

Steve

In message <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com>, Christie A. Wood
<Ensembles@compuserve.com> writes
>Message text written by Steve Richard
>>Christie,
>        Fire polishing is taking the glass to its softening point.  The
>temperature is dependent on the glass and is above the slumping point,
>but below the fusing point.  A little experimentation on the kind of
>glass you intend to use will determine the temperature to be used.  A
>lot of visual checking of the glass while firing is needed so you can
>see when the glass smoothes out. Then turn the kiln off, if you are
>using a small piece.  If you are using a larger piece, you must anneal
>it.<
>
>Steve (et al)...thanks for the info on fire polishing.  I have two kilns
>which are in use 6 days a week doing glass bottle slumping.  But I never
>have the need to look inside the kiln.  I understand looking inside a ver=
>y
>hot kiln can ?damage your eyes?  Is this true?  In order to do a lot of
>visual checking of the glass during firing, would I need to invest in tho=
>se
>UV protective glasses?
>
>Christie A. Wood
>Art Glass Ensembles
>Denton, TX
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Sat Feb 16 20:47:56 2002
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From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Sherry Greer <texpenguin@yahoo.com>
Subject: blank messages
Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2002 23:14:20 +0000
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Sherry,
        I don't know how many of us get blank messages, but I don't.  At
least only about 2 or 3 per year.

Steve
In message <1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>, Sherry Greer
<texpenguin@yahoo.com> writes
>Just a note to point out that NOT every email program has a 'Reply All'
>button, as many email programs are completely text based and don't use
>the mouse at all.  Also, 'Reply All' results in one person getting that
>email twice-addressed solely to him, and addressed to Bungi.  Clutters
>up the mailbox.  Most email programs however will let you set up
>'nicknames' or shortcuts, where you type in for example 'GlassList'
>(mine) or just 'Glass', or even 'GL' and you configure the program to
>autochange that to Bungi's address.  
>As a footnote, I also receive blank messages (about half of those that
>I receive!)  When I first joined the list, I asked the moderator about
>this, and he said that I'd have to switch email programs to fix it! 
>I'm sure it's not the HTML vs. text thing, as my browser accepts both
>types of mail, so it must be a Bungi bug.   I've never had this problem
>on any other list I belong to.  
>Anyway, Happy Valentine's to all!
>Sherry
>
>
>=====
>Sherry Greer
>texpenguin@yahoo.com
>
>__________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
>Send FREE Valentine eCards with Yahoo! Greetings!
>http://greetings.yahoo.com
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
----
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From owner-glass Sat Feb 16 22:20:56 2002
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To: <Glass@Bungi.Com>
Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="__BFEA4D1D4352B0688BF409B49C0F6DFC__"
Subject: Natural stone tables
Date: 16 Feb 02 22:37:47 -0500
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Product Updates:  For our new natural stone tables,  please sign in early for the dealership program.

 You can also check our web site at
                   http://www.chinastonemarble.com
                   http://www.homeironworks.com
                   http://www.constructionstone.com

 European distributorship is needed.

 If this email reach you by mistake, please type "Remove" and send 
back to stoneage@ameritech.net  with your email address.


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we6NpK6/aSAO6DkYzLqn1P4eCCmyFjTfouHi+NW1OqOx3bntyna2stj85vJ8itL6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Qj+l5lbPceQd7s7jlRESPj8lhpJ6zq9lT+bz9H5fJDyvpNmYn87j5QuRSVeH8502
Zsnydd3vsDbt/M+UrWpjy7eK8rSVlhD7DTHkrjPl8l4kkj0U+7M+S0MPn/X8F88p
JFcN36VCIzkL5mSQ6rn6eb9JSfwvl9JOU/T3gpBfL6SCn6i7JxyvlxJOCH6j7qLu
e6+XkkOqQ/Ubeycr5bSRQ/Uo4QnclfL6SSg/T4TFfMKSSn6bPCZ/ZfMqSSn6a7qf
5q+Ykkgp+nWpFfMSSSH6aKYr5mSSU/S/5wTn/WV8zpIhD9MN+kFNfMiSPRT/AP/Z


--__BFEA4D1D4352B0688BF409B49C0F6DFC__--
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From owner-glass Sun Feb 17 11:20:23 2002
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	for rglass-42; Sun, 17 Feb 2002 10:59:35 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: comcast.net!cecnralph
From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@comcast.net>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>,
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type=54455854;
Subject: Infection?
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 13:26:43 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net>
Organization: Grendel Studio
Precedence: bulk

It may be possible that someone on the list with a PC is infected with
W32.Magistr.39921@mm.  I received a message (Symantec) telling me
something had been deleted.  However, I was not able to determine which
message triggered the removal. - Cecily

----
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From owner-glass Sun Feb 17 13:06:31 2002
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	for rglass-42; Sun, 17 Feb 2002 12:33:48 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: island.net!seaspray
From: "Synergy Glass" <seaspray@island.net>
To: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>, "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Acid etching
Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 11:34:15 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@island.net>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Or you can do what I did this Christmas.  Take a nice snowflake (I used some
pre-stamped from craft foam) and attach it to the glass with spray adhesive.
Apply etching cream around it et voila...a reverse snowflake.

Carol Swann
Synergy Glass &  Creative

----- Original Message -----
From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Monday, December 17, 2001 7:15 AM
Subject: Acid etching


> Message text written by Claire Fuller
> >In a recent email about Christmas ornaments Christie mentioned acid
> etching.
> Can anyone (or Christie) explain more about what that is and how to do it=
> ?<
>
> It's SOOOOO EASY.  Purchase a small bottle of
> Acid-Etch or Etch-All cream from your local stained
> glass retail supplier.  Print out a nice design onto
> some sort of contact paper or label paper.  I use
> full-page white label paper which can be used in
> my deskjet printer.  Then remove the backing from
> the paper, put it onto the glass, and carefully cut out
> the design using a very sharp exacto-type knife.
> Follow the instructions on the etching cream (except
> I always leave it on for 3 minutes instead of the 1 in
> order to ensure a good smooth etch).  When you
> rinse off the etching cream, the water will soften up
> the label paper, which will just peel off.  Voila!
> Etched glass.
>
> Christie A. Wood
> Art Glass Ensembles
> Denton, TX
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
>

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From owner-glass Sun Feb 17 17:03:59 2002
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	for rglass-42; Sun, 17 Feb 2002 16:48:46 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: aol.com!CUngv
From: CUngv@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: blank messages
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 19:09:28 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>
Precedence: bulk

If anyone is keeping track, I use AOL 5.0 for email and I can't remember ever 
getting a blank e-mail.

Carolyn Gilinsky
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From owner-glass Sun Feb 17 19:13:57 2002
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	for rglass-42; Sun, 17 Feb 2002 19:01:27 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: doorpi.net!mmam5
From: "Marci" <mmam5@doorpi.net>
To: "Cecily & Ralph Wood" <cecnralph@comcast.net>,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Infection?
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 14:45:17 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@doorpi.net>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net>>
Precedence: bulk

Hmmmm -  I had this a.m. also! It's not been the first time. . . Thank
goodness for live update!! :)

Marci

----- Original Message -----
From: "Cecily & Ralph Wood" <cecnralph@comcast.net>
To: "Bungi Glass" <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2002 12:26 PM
Subject: Infection?


> It may be possible that someone on the list with a PC is infected with
> W32.Magistr.39921@mm.  I received a message (Symantec) telling me
> something had been deleted.  However, I was not able to determine which
> message triggered the removal. - Cecily
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>


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From owner-glass Mon Feb 18 06:47:11 2002
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	for rglass-42; Mon, 18 Feb 2002 06:34:30 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: scc.net!oddjob
From: Sue Reitmann <oddjob@scc.net>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Retail Source for 96 COE dichro
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 08:33:28 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@scc.net>
Precedence: bulk

I am looking for a retail source that carries 96coe dichro. I prefer the 
smaller packages
that retail anywhere from $3.00 to $15.00. Preferably the pattern designs.
I live in Minneapolis and none of the retailers here carry it nor are they 
willing to at this time. I have briefly scanned the net, but have only 
found places that sell wholesale which won't help me.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
Sue

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From owner-glass Mon Feb 18 08:15:14 2002
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	for rglass-42; Mon, 18 Feb 2002 07:32:34 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: mindspring.com!pigznpawz
From: "Jerri" <pigznpawz@mindspring.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: for all you hobbiests
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 10:30:34 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@mindspring.com>
Precedence: bulk

Hi all,

    Hobby Lobby has their glass on sale with the website coupon this week.
You just print it out and take it in.  It's buy one, get one for 1 cent.  My
hobby lobby only has Specturm, but it's a good deal.  The address for the
coupon:

http://www.hobbylobby.com/site2/coupons/week8.gif

Jerri
www.beadbimbo.com




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From owner-glass Mon Feb 18 10:09:00 2002
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	for rglass-42; Mon, 18 Feb 2002 09:04:16 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: exchange.DAYTONOH.NCR.com!DF125031
From: "Becker, Donna" <DF125031@exchange.DAYTONOH.NCR.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: RE: for all you hobbiests
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 12:03:05 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@exchange.DAYTONOH.NCR.com>
Precedence: bulk

Jerri,
Thanks - I really appreciate when you send these, so I thought there must me
a way to get them regularly like you do.  I went to 
http://www.hobbylobby.com/hlsurvey.cfm
filled out their survey and signed up for the weekly coupon.  I'm sure it's
not always glass, but I'm looking forward to when it is :-)
Anyway, if anyone else is interested, it takes about 2 minutes.

Donna Becker
Senior Consultant II
Office  630-469-5726
Cell 630-248-0184
donna.becker@chicagoil.ncr.com



-----Original Message-----
From: Jerri [mailto:pigznpawz@mindspring.com]
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2002 9:31 AM
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: for all you hobbiests


Hi all,

    Hobby Lobby has their glass on sale with the website coupon this week.
You just print it out and take it in.  It's buy one, get one for 1 cent.  My
hobby lobby only has Specturm, but it's a good deal.  The address for the
coupon:

http://www.hobbylobby.com/site2/coupons/week8.gif

Jerri
www.beadbimbo.com




----
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----
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From owner-glass Tue Feb 19 04:52:24 2002
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	for rglass-42; Tue, 19 Feb 2002 04:40:02 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: mindspring.com!pigznpawz
From: "Jerri" <pigznpawz@mindspring.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: for all you hobbiests
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 06:44:24 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@mindspring.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@exchange.DAYTONOH.NCR.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Hi Donna,

    If you get the Sunday paper, check their ad, or check their online ad
every week too.  A couple of weeks ago, the stained glass was on sale for
1/2 price.  I get the website coupon every week, and it's usually not
anything I want, but it's worth it when it is!

Jerri


----- Original Message -----
From: "Becker, Donna" <DF125031@exchange.DAYTONOH.NCR.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2002 12:03 PM
Subject: RE: for all you hobbiests


> Jerri,
> Thanks - I really appreciate when you send these, so I thought there must
me
> a way to get them regularly like you do.  I went to
> http://www.hobbylobby.com/hlsurvey.cfm
> filled out their survey and signed up for the weekly coupon.  I'm sure
it's
> not always glass, but I'm looking forward to when it is :-)
> Anyway, if anyone else is interested, it takes about 2 minutes.
>
> Donna Becker
> Senior Consultant II
> Office  630-469-5726
> Cell 630-248-0184
> donna.becker@chicagoil.ncr.com
>
>
>



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From owner-glass Tue Feb 19 06:31:05 2002
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	for rglass-42; Tue, 19 Feb 2002 06:16:56 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: yahoo.com!frank_usaus
From: frank mane <frank_usaus@yahoo.com>
To: frank_usaus@yahoo.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: INQUIRY
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 06:14:43 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>
Precedence: bulk

Dear sir,
 I am Mr Frank Mane the son of late Dr  Benson Mane of
Sierra Leone.and mother . My father was the director
general of diamond and gold minning co-operation of
sierra leone during the civilian regime of president
Tijan Kabbah before the rebels collaborrated with some
soldiers and overthrew president Kabbah, and my father
was arrested. They only allowed us two visits per
month and on one of the visits,two days before my
father was assassinated by the rebel forces of Mr
Foday Sankoh,he instructed me and my younger brother
Humphrey to move out of Sierra Leone immediately,
before the powerful Economic Community of West Africa
Monitoring Groups (ECOMOG) forces intervened which
eventually resulted into a war. I and my little
brother Humphrey therefore manage to escape from
Sierra Leone to Abidjan, Côte d'Ivoire through the
help of my father's friend who is a diplomat. We came
into Abidjan with some valuables, properties titles
including a deposit certificate for a cash sum of
US$10,000,000 (ten million United States Dollars)
which my late father deposited with a bank here in
Abidjan, Côte d''voire with his name. On getting here
in Abidjan, we made inquiries with the bank and
discovered that the money is still there. Meanwhile we
want to leave Côte d'Ivoire entirely with this money
for investment in your country because of the stable
political situation and mostly for my future and that
of my younger brother Humphrey if you can please help
us. I and my brother have resolved to compensate you
highly for your noble assistance upon the term of
agreement that will be reach, for your percentage with
us. For the safety of our lives, treat this matter
with high confidentiality. Please kindly contact us as
soon as you receive this e-mail,so that we can discuss
this issue and plan of how to carry on . Upon request
, I am ready to foward to you the duplicate copies of
the deposit papers which my father handed over to me .

 
May God bless you Best Regards.
 FRANK MANE 



__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Sports - Coverage of the 2002 Olympic Games
http://sports.yahoo.com
----
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From owner-glass Tue Feb 19 06:54:19 2002
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	for rglass-42; Tue, 19 Feb 2002 06:46:10 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: yahoo.com!frank_usaus
From: frank mane <frank_usaus@yahoo.com>
To: frank_usaus@yahoo.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: INQUIRY
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 06:15:10 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>
Precedence: bulk

Dear sir,
 I am Mr Frank Mane the son of late Dr  Benson Mane of
Sierra Leone.and mother . My father was the director
general of diamond and gold minning co-operation of
sierra leone during the civilian regime of president
Tijan Kabbah before the rebels collaborrated with some
soldiers and overthrew president Kabbah, and my father
was arrested. They only allowed us two visits per
month and on one of the visits,two days before my
father was assassinated by the rebel forces of Mr
Foday Sankoh,he instructed me and my younger brother
Humphrey to move out of Sierra Leone immediately,
before the powerful Economic Community of West Africa
Monitoring Groups (ECOMOG) forces intervened which
eventually resulted into a war. I and my little
brother Humphrey therefore manage to escape from
Sierra Leone to Abidjan, Côte d'Ivoire through the
help of my father's friend who is a diplomat. We came
into Abidjan with some valuables, properties titles
including a deposit certificate for a cash sum of
US$10,000,000 (ten million United States Dollars)
which my late father deposited with a bank here in
Abidjan, Côte d''voire with his name. On getting here
in Abidjan, we made inquiries with the bank and
discovered that the money is still there. Meanwhile we
want to leave Côte d'Ivoire entirely with this money
for investment in your country because of the stable
political situation and mostly for my future and that
of my younger brother Humphrey if you can please help
us. I and my brother have resolved to compensate you
highly for your noble assistance upon the term of
agreement that will be reach, for your percentage with
us. For the safety of our lives, treat this matter
with high confidentiality. Please kindly contact us as
soon as you receive this e-mail,so that we can discuss
this issue and plan of how to carry on . Upon request
, I am ready to foward to you the duplicate copies of
the deposit papers which my father handed over to me .

 
May God bless you Best Regards.
 FRANK MANE 



__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Sports - Coverage of the 2002 Olympic Games
http://sports.yahoo.com
----
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From owner-glass Tue Feb 19 07:22:50 2002
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m16dBX4-0000L7a@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Tue, 19 Feb 2002 06:46:14 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: yahoo.com!frank_usaus
From: frank mane <frank_usaus@yahoo.com>
To: frank_usaus@yahoo.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: INQUIRY
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 06:15:10 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>
Precedence: bulk

Dear sir,
 I am Mr Frank Mane the son of late Dr  Benson Mane of
Sierra Leone.and mother . My father was the director
general of diamond and gold minning co-operation of
sierra leone during the civilian regime of president
Tijan Kabbah before the rebels collaborrated with some
soldiers and overthrew president Kabbah, and my father
was arrested. They only allowed us two visits per
month and on one of the visits,two days before my
father was assassinated by the rebel forces of Mr
Foday Sankoh,he instructed me and my younger brother
Humphrey to move out of Sierra Leone immediately,
before the powerful Economic Community of West Africa
Monitoring Groups (ECOMOG) forces intervened which
eventually resulted into a war. I and my little
brother Humphrey therefore manage to escape from
Sierra Leone to Abidjan, Côte d'Ivoire through the
help of my father's friend who is a diplomat. We came
into Abidjan with some valuables, properties titles
including a deposit certificate for a cash sum of
US$10,000,000 (ten million United States Dollars)
which my late father deposited with a bank here in
Abidjan, Côte d''voire with his name. On getting here
in Abidjan, we made inquiries with the bank and
discovered that the money is still there. Meanwhile we
want to leave Côte d'Ivoire entirely with this money
for investment in your country because of the stable
political situation and mostly for my future and that
of my younger brother Humphrey if you can please help
us. I and my brother have resolved to compensate you
highly for your noble assistance upon the term of
agreement that will be reach, for your percentage with
us. For the safety of our lives, treat this matter
with high confidentiality. Please kindly contact us as
soon as you receive this e-mail,so that we can discuss
this issue and plan of how to carry on . Upon request
, I am ready to foward to you the duplicate copies of
the deposit papers which my father handed over to me .

 
May God bless you Best Regards.
 FRANK MANE 



__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Sports - Coverage of the 2002 Olympic Games
http://sports.yahoo.com
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From owner-glass Tue Feb 19 07:33:28 2002
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X-Path: yahoo.com!frank_usaus
From: frank mane <frank_usaus@yahoo.com>
To: frank_usaus@yahoo.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: INQUIRY
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 06:14:43 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>
Precedence: bulk

Dear sir,
 I am Mr Frank Mane the son of late Dr  Benson Mane of
Sierra Leone.and mother . My father was the director
general of diamond and gold minning co-operation of
sierra leone during the civilian regime of president
Tijan Kabbah before the rebels collaborrated with some
soldiers and overthrew president Kabbah, and my father
was arrested. They only allowed us two visits per
month and on one of the visits,two days before my
father was assassinated by the rebel forces of Mr
Foday Sankoh,he instructed me and my younger brother
Humphrey to move out of Sierra Leone immediately,
before the powerful Economic Community of West Africa
Monitoring Groups (ECOMOG) forces intervened which
eventually resulted into a war. I and my little
brother Humphrey therefore manage to escape from
Sierra Leone to Abidjan, Côte d'Ivoire through the
help of my father's friend who is a diplomat. We came
into Abidjan with some valuables, properties titles
including a deposit certificate for a cash sum of
US$10,000,000 (ten million United States Dollars)
which my late father deposited with a bank here in
Abidjan, Côte d''voire with his name. On getting here
in Abidjan, we made inquiries with the bank and
discovered that the money is still there. Meanwhile we
want to leave Côte d'Ivoire entirely with this money
for investment in your country because of the stable
political situation and mostly for my future and that
of my younger brother Humphrey if you can please help
us. I and my brother have resolved to compensate you
highly for your noble assistance upon the term of
agreement that will be reach, for your percentage with
us. For the safety of our lives, treat this matter
with high confidentiality. Please kindly contact us as
soon as you receive this e-mail,so that we can discuss
this issue and plan of how to carry on . Upon request
, I am ready to foward to you the duplicate copies of
the deposit papers which my father handed over to me .

 
May God bless you Best Regards.
 FRANK MANE 



__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Sports - Coverage of the 2002 Olympic Games
http://sports.yahoo.com
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From owner-glass Tue Feb 19 08:24:05 2002
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From: frank mane <frank_usaus@yahoo.com>
To: frank_usaus@yahoo.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: INQUIRY
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 06:14:43 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>
Precedence: bulk

Dear sir,
 I am Mr Frank Mane the son of late Dr  Benson Mane of
Sierra Leone.and mother . My father was the director
general of diamond and gold minning co-operation of
sierra leone during the civilian regime of president
Tijan Kabbah before the rebels collaborrated with some
soldiers and overthrew president Kabbah, and my father
was arrested. They only allowed us two visits per
month and on one of the visits,two days before my
father was assassinated by the rebel forces of Mr
Foday Sankoh,he instructed me and my younger brother
Humphrey to move out of Sierra Leone immediately,
before the powerful Economic Community of West Africa
Monitoring Groups (ECOMOG) forces intervened which
eventually resulted into a war. I and my little
brother Humphrey therefore manage to escape from
Sierra Leone to Abidjan, Côte d'Ivoire through the
help of my father's friend who is a diplomat. We came
into Abidjan with some valuables, properties titles
including a deposit certificate for a cash sum of
US$10,000,000 (ten million United States Dollars)
which my late father deposited with a bank here in
Abidjan, Côte d''voire with his name. On getting here
in Abidjan, we made inquiries with the bank and
discovered that the money is still there. Meanwhile we
want to leave Côte d'Ivoire entirely with this money
for investment in your country because of the stable
political situation and mostly for my future and that
of my younger brother Humphrey if you can please help
us. I and my brother have resolved to compensate you
highly for your noble assistance upon the term of
agreement that will be reach, for your percentage with
us. For the safety of our lives, treat this matter
with high confidentiality. Please kindly contact us as
soon as you receive this e-mail,so that we can discuss
this issue and plan of how to carry on . Upon request
, I am ready to foward to you the duplicate copies of
the deposit papers which my father handed over to me .

 
May God bless you Best Regards.
 FRANK MANE 



__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Sports - Coverage of the 2002 Olympic Games
http://sports.yahoo.com
----
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From owner-glass Tue Feb 19 15:08:25 2002
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X-Path: cox.net!lorley
From: Lorley Oneyear <lorley@cox.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: multipart/mixed; x-avg-checked=avg-ok-51C71BBA; boundary="=======5F691901======="
Subject: silicone
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 15:38:35 -0700
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Precedence: bulk

--=======5F691901=======
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I'll be using a tube of silicone gel (clear rubber sealant) to hold a 12 X 
12 piece of stained glass in a wooden frame. The silicone is made by GE and 
comes in a 10 oz tube which is dispensed via a caulking gun. It'll probably 
be months and months before I need it again. Is there any way to keep the 
silicone fresh. I've tried stopping up the hole with a golf tee (the golf 
tee broke off) and a nail (didn't work either).. Or do I just assume that 
one tube is for a one time only use? Lorley

--=======5F691901=======--

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From owner-glass Tue Feb 19 20:21:58 2002
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	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: centurytel.net!mistykat
From: "Peggy Ness" <mistykat@centurytel.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: blank
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 21:46:43 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@centurytel.net>
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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I just upgraded to xp and changed from netscape to outlook  I haven't =
received any more blank emails. I have my brouser set for both text and =
html.  Peggy

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
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charset=3Diso-8859-1">
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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I just upgraded to xp and changed from =
netscape to=20
outlook&nbsp; I haven't received any more blank emails. I have my =
brouser set=20
for both text and html.&nbsp; Peggy</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-glass Wed Feb 20 03:36:53 2002
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	for rglass-42; Wed, 20 Feb 2002 03:21:43 -0800 (PST)
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X-Path: att.net!elsiemt
From: elsiemt@att.net
To: Lorley Oneyear <lorley@cox.net>
Subject: Re: silicone
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2002 11:20:01 +0000
Message-ID: <20020220112001.EXIY557.mtiwmhc23.worldnet.att.net@webmail.worldnet.att.net>
Precedence: bulk

I have succesfully used a screw on others types of 
sealent tubes, the twisting seems to make a better 
airtight seal.

Good Luck   

Elsie
> I'll be using a tube of silicone gel (clear rubber sealant) to hold a 12 X 
> 12 piece of stained glass in a wooden frame. The silicone is made by GE and 
> comes in a 10 oz tube which is dispensed via a caulking gun. It'll probably 
> be months and months before I need it again. Is there any way to keep the 
> silicone fresh. I've tried stopping up the hole with a golf tee (the golf 
> tee broke off) and a nail (didn't work either).. Or do I just assume that 
> one tube is for a one time only use? Lorley
----
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From owner-glass Wed Feb 20 04:08:46 2002
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	for rglass-42; Wed, 20 Feb 2002 03:37:20 -0800 (PST)
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X-Path: earthlink.net!glasscutter
From: Gerry Phibbs <glasscutter@earthlink.net>
To: Lorley Oneyear <lorley@cox.net>, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: silicone
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2002 03:33:35 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@earthlink.net>
References: <<5.1.0.14.2.20020219153433.00a92590@pop.west.cox.net>>
Precedence: bulk

Hi Lorley,
  First off, the silicone is available in much smaller packages, down to
1.5 oz squeeze tubes, so while there is some economy in the larger
caulking gun tube, if you can't use it all and don't want to risk the
rest of it curing off in the tube, then by all means buy it in smaller
tubes, and use it fresh each time.
  The silicone typically has a 3 year "shelf life", meaning that for a
time period from when it was packaged in that tube, it has three years
of usable life before it starts to cure off inside the tube.  However,
since you have no idea how long the stuff may have been sitting on the
shelf at your supplier, or how long it was sitting on the shelf at their
vendor's warehouse, or how long it may have been sitting at other
warehouse locations, that three years figure can be very confusing.
  For myself, I put a large wood screw or 1/4" lag screw into the opened
silicone tube.  I expect that the silicone will cure down on that screw
thread, but if I need to use it again within say.. six months, I can
pull out the cured "plug" of silicone by pulling that screw out.  The
silicone will hold a bit better to the rougher threaded screw than it
will to smooth sided nails.  Sometimes it requires splitting the nozzle
to get the cured plug out, but for small amounts that's not that big a deal.
  One other thing.  Any opened tube of silicone that's been sitting
around for any length of time, may well have cured or partially cured
glops of harder silicone embedded in it, which can make using opened
tubes somewhat more difficult for larger projects, since these harder
glops can make getting a nice clean bead with the silicone impossible.
  Good luck.. personally I like two similar (but different) products a
bit better for glass.  The first is the industrial cement E-6000, which
cures up much faster, is also clear, and has much better holding power
(in my experience).  The second is Lexel, a similar product that is a
bit thinner than the silicone or E-6000, so it spreads out a bit better,
and it holds much better than the silicone, especially in areas that are
going to be wet on occasion.  Lexel is also much clearer cured than the
silicones.  But, whatever works for you.
  Peace  -Gerry
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From owner-glass Wed Feb 20 13:11:24 2002
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X-Path: hot.rr.com!pkelly
From: "Patrick Kelly" <pkelly@hot.rr.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE: silicone
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2002 14:04:15 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@hot.rr.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@earthlink.net>>
Precedence: bulk


The best way to save the silicone is to use a wire connector. You might have
them around your house or in the garage. Absent that you can buy them at any
hardware or home improvement center. Only use the type that have a threaded
metal insert in the middle. They come in various gauge various sizes and
threads. These screw on and make an airtight seal. The different sizes make
it nice when you cut off the tips of the silicone to make the wider beads.

Patrick
Roses and Rainbows

PS yes I am still around....

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From owner-glass Wed Feb 20 16:42:35 2002
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X-Path: northlights.co.uk!toby
From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: "Patrick Kelly" <pkelly@hot.rr.com>,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: silicone
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2002 23:02:55 -0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@northlights.co.uk>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@hot.rr.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Hey Patrick, m'dear.
Nice to see that you are still around...
How does the glass tutu fit these days??
It would be great - one of these days - to welcome you here Across the Pond.
C'mon! Retire from that horrible job you do and pack your 'n your missus'
bags 'n get your lovely legs and tutu Over Here!

P.S. We certainly had some fun.... ah, yes.... and chez Nadine.... Looking
at that petite little lady and saw  the heights and widths of the stained
glass panels she had produced/ installed for her place. Pint size lady and
MEGA stained glass Oh WOW!!
Love to Babe and young companion. I still remember chasing Babe all round
the housing complex..., sprinting across peoples' kitchen window, through
their front gardens, charging through summer bbq's on the patio. Feeling a
right old hick; apologizing in my terribly British/Swedish accent as I
blundered along.
Nadine, don't worry....calender continuation to follow.....
Patrick, the Texas T-shirt is big enough for me to wear as a night shirt in
winter! Love it!!

The Horrible Viking 'n Hound From Baskerville in UK ( plus EXTRA Hound!)
aka E 'n T in UK

Patrick wrote:

>
> The best way to save the silicone is to use a wire connector. You might
have
> them around your house or in the garage. Absent that you can buy them at
any
> hardware or home improvement center. Only use the type that have a
threaded
> metal insert in the middle. They come in various gauge various sizes and
> threads. These screw on and make an airtight seal. The different sizes
make
> it nice when you cut off the tips of the silicone to make the wider beads.
>
> Patrick
> Roses and Rainbows
>
> PS yes I am still around....



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From owner-glass Thu Feb 21 11:05:49 2002
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X-Path: netzero.net!heesunstainedglassltd
From: "heesunstainedglassltd" <heesunstainedglassltd@netzero.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: Maryland Invitation 
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 12:47:12 -0500
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We are proud to announce yet another year has passed and it's time again =
for our annual anniversary sale  This weekend Feb 23 & 24 th .  Also =
please note that we have moved to a much bigger shop in Finksburg.  We =
are located on 140 in the Tower Center approximately 2 miles west of the =
intersection of Rt 91 and 140.

Feel free to call for directions or more information. =20

And as always free food, door prizes, and demonstrations.

Saturday 12-6 with crate sales at 2 and 4=20

Sunday 12-4 with a crate sale at 2

Hee Sun Stained Glass, Ltd.
2025 Suffolk Road Ste. #9
Finksburg, Maryland 21048
410-833-3007
info@heesun.com   =20
sales@heesun.com
http://www.heesun.com
Custom Design Studio=20
Supplies & Classes for Stained & Fused Glass & Mosaics

When one door of happiness closes,
another opens; but often we look so
long at the closed door that we do not
see the one which has been opened for
us.   Helen Keller



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charset=3Dwindows-1252">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2600.0" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DAutumn>
<DIV><FONT face=3DAutumn>We are proud to announce yet another year has =
passed and=20
it's time again for our annual anniversary sale&nbsp; This weekend Feb =
23 &amp;=20
24 th .&nbsp; Also please note that we have moved to a much bigger shop =
in=20
Finksburg.&nbsp; We are located on 140 in the Tower Center approximately =
2 miles=20
west of the intersection of Rt 91 and 140.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DAutumn></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DAutumn>Feel free to call for directions or more=20
information.&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DAutumn></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DAutumn>And as always free food, door prizes, and=20
demonstrations.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DAutumn></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DAutumn>Saturday 12-6 with crate sales at 2 and 4 =
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DAutumn></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DAutumn>Sunday 12-4 with a crate sale at 2</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DAutumn></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DAutumn>Hee Sun Stained Glass, Ltd.<BR>2025 Suffolk =
Road Ste.=20
#9<BR>Finksburg, Maryland 21048<BR>410-833-3007<BR><A=20
href=3D"mailto:info@heesun.com">info@heesun.com</A>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
<BR><A=20
href=3D"mailto:sales@heesun.com">sales@heesun.com</A><BR><A=20
href=3D"http://www.heesun.com">http://www.heesun.com</A><BR>Custom =
Design Studio=20
<BR>Supplies &amp; Classes for Stained &amp; Fused Glass &amp;=20
Mosaics</FONT></DIV></FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DAutumn>When one door of happiness closes,<BR>another =
opens; but=20
often we look so<BR>long at the closed door that we do not<BR>see the =
one which=20
has been opened for<BR>us.&nbsp;&nbsp; Helen Keller</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DAutumn></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

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Hee Sun Stained Glass, LTD.
2025 Suffolk Road Suite 9
Finksburg, MD 21048
410-833-3007
http://www.heesun.com =20
sales@heesun.comGet more from the Web.  FREE MSN Explorer download : http=
://explorer.msn.com

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<HTML><BODY STYLE=3D"font:10pt verdana; border:none;"><DIV><BR><BR>Hee Su=
n Stained Glass, LTD.<BR>2025 Suffolk Road Suite 9<BR>Finksburg, MD 21048=
<BR>410-833-3007<BR>http://www.heesun.com <BR>sales@heesun.com</DIV></BOD=
Y></HTML><br clear=3Dall><hr>Get more from the Web.  FREE MSN Explorer do=
wnload : <a href=3D'http://explorer.msn.com'>http://explorer.msn.com</a><=
br></p>

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Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 18:56:12 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>
Precedence: bulk

Hi from New Jersey!

The "host" hotel is the Stratosphere at the northern end of "the Strip". The 
organizers will be providing transportation to the convention center (Cashman 
Center). Most people will be staying at the Stratosphere. The Sahara is 
directly across the street so you might check room prices at both.

Check out the show's website  www.glasscraftexpo.com

They do have a group rate at the Stratosphere. But some have said they found 
better prices surfing around the web (have no idea where on the web).

Consider coming! If not this year maybe next.

Cheryl Lowe




In a message dated 2/21/02 2:02:58 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
aglassact@shaw.ca writes:

> Hi from Canada!
>  Oh the thought of going to an expo like this is truly tempting!....What
>  hotel does everyone stay at and are the rooms a reasonable price?Darn
>  canadian money just doesn't cut it anymore lol!
>  Thanks In -Advance for any info
>  Jennifer Smith
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From owner-glass Thu Feb 21 18:27:37 2002
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X-Path: comcast.net!cecnralph
From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@comcast.net>
To: heesunstainedglassltd <heesunstainedglassltd@netzero.net>,
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type=54455854;
Subject: Re: Blank Messages
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 19:07:09 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@netzero.net>>
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Research in Progress:

Bungians who received this as non-blank: - Was it formatted, with any
bold, or italics?  Font changes?  Colors?  Just reply to me - don't clog
up Bungi - thanks!

Hi Robert - changed ISPs did you?  I'll change my address book.

This email was one of the "blank" emails Bungi occasionally gets, but
your subscribe email was not blank - I could read the business name and
new address and all just fine.

I'm trying to track down what happens at the senders end and who gets
blanks and who doesn't.  So - I had to view it in Source format to read
the message.

I assume you did both messages in Outlook Express (definately Windows),
the previous message was all text, and in this one you used html fairly
extensively, but you sent this message as mime in both text and html
formats.  So far, that is the case with the "blank" messages.

Seems like on these messages, Bungi's server is passing along both kinds
of formats.  Netscape does have a setting (not default) which I am going
to try.  They warn that this setting may "break" other email messages,
so I'll see what happens.  Using the other setting may louse up other
lists I belong to, so this will be an experiment.

Netscape is perfectly capable of doing html messages - and occasionally
I will have been the culprit, and when the message comes back to me, it
may be blank, to my chagrin.

heesunstainedglassltd wrote:

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From owner-glass Thu Feb 21 23:06:01 2002
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From: "ROBERT keane" <heesunsg1@msn.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_001_0001_01C1BB23.CCCED100"
Subject: Maryland Invitation 2nd Attempt
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 22:04:57 -0500
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------=_NextPart_001_0001_01C1BB23.CCCED100
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

We would like to extend an invitation to anyone in the area to attend our=
 anniversary sale and party this weekend Saturday 12-6 Sunday12-4.  We wi=
ll have numerous door prizes, demonstrations, food, and "Crate Sales".  W=
e have relocated to a much larger shop with ample parking, and easy acces=
s.  We are now located in the Tower Center on RT 140 in Finksburg, MD.  =20
Our Crate Sales will be Saturday at 2 and 4 pm and Sunday at 2 pm.  We wi=
ll draw names for the door prizes on Sunday and will notify the winners o=
n Tuesday.  We will be drawing for a grinder, free glass, grinding heads,=
 and much more.....

Hope to see some of you here,

Robert, Jeanne, and Emilie.

Hee Sun Stained Glass, LTD.
2025 Suffolk Road Suite 9
Finksburg, MD 21048
410-833-3007
http://www.heesun.com =20
sales@heesun.comGet more from the Web.  FREE MSN Explorer download : http=
://explorer.msn.com

------=_NextPart_001_0001_01C1BB23.CCCED100
Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><BODY STYLE=3D"font:10pt verdana; border:none;"><DIV>We would like =
to extend an invitation to anyone in the area to attend our anniversary s=
ale and party this weekend Saturday 12-6 Sunday12-4.&nbsp; We will have n=
umerous door prizes, demonstrations, food, and "Crate Sales".&nbsp; We ha=
ve relocated to a much larger shop with ample parking, and easy access.&n=
bsp; We are now located in the Tower Center on RT 140 in Finksburg, MD.&n=
bsp; </DIV> <DIV>Our Crate Sales will be Saturday at 2 and 4 pm and Sunda=
y at 2 pm.&nbsp; We will draw names for the door prizes on Sunday and wil=
l notify the winners on Tuesday.&nbsp; We will be drawing for a grinder, =
free glass, grinding heads, and much more.....</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <D=
IV>Hope to see some of you here,</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>Robert, Jea=
nne, and Emilie.<BR><BR>Hee Sun Stained Glass, LTD.<BR>2025 Suffolk Road =
Suite 9<BR>Finksburg, MD 21048<BR>410-833-3007<BR>http://www.heesun.com <=
BR>sales@heesun.com</DIV></BODY></HTML><br clear=3Dall><hr>Get more from =
the Web.  FREE MSN Explorer download : <a href=3D'http://explorer.msn.com=
'>http://explorer.msn.com</a><br></p>

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From owner-glass Fri Feb 22 06:47:22 2002
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From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@comcast.net>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
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Subject: Re: Blank Messages
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 09:06:58 -0500
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Organization: Grendel Studio
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I received several replies - thank you.  However I'm not quite certain whether
you were referring to MY message or Robert's.  It was Robert's first message
about this weekend's sale that I was referring to.

Now that my settings are changed - I did see Robert's second message.  Did it
show up as blank to anyone?

Thanks - we are getting closer to solving the problem - Cec

"Christie A. Wood" wrote:

> Message text written by Cecily & Ralph Wood
> >Bungians who received this as non-blank: - Was it formatted, with any
> bold, or italics?  Font changes?  Colors?  Just reply to me - don't clog
> up Bungi - thanks!<
>
> I use Compuserve as my email program.  Your message arrived as plain text
> without any bold, italics, font changes or colors.  The text wrapped around
> nicely.
>
> Christie A. Wood
> Art Glass Ensembles
> Denton, TX

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From owner-glass Fri Feb 22 09:54:36 2002
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From: "Cheryl Parrott" <glassartist@talentstoshare.com>
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Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 09:22:18 -0800
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I don't seem to be getting all the messages sent to the group.  This is a
test to see if this is going to come through.
Cheryl Parrott
Theglassparrott@hotmail.com


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From: "Suzanne Gunn" <gunnx4@cox.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: What's  "intermediate" ?
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 12:49:36 -0600
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If you have just had a beginning glass class...what would you want included
in your intermediate class?

What would you guys consider "intermediate"?

Those of you that teach, what do you teach in your intermediate classes?

I was thinking of more difficult glass cuts.  More lead lines intersecting
etc...

Ideas, opinions welcome.

Suzanne


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From owner-glass Sat Feb 23 12:28:25 2002
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Subject: Re: What's  "intermediate" ?
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 15:23:37 EST
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--part1_8a.147d79d2.29a95449_boundary
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Hi Suzanne,
A lot would depend on what your beginner class included.  

I taught a leaded panel for beginners, then took them to copper foil and a 
simple lamp for intermediate.  That included a new skill (copper foil) and 
new construction (3-d piece instead of flat), and emphasized better cutting.

Or intermediate lead could include more intricate designs, more curves, use 
of different sized leads, etc.  Also, you could add use of better glass, 
ripples, etc. and show the difference in quality of the finished piece with 
hand-selected art glass.
Ann

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  COLOR="#004080" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Franklin Gothic Book" LANG="0">Hi Suzanne,<BR>
A lot would depend on what your beginner class included.&nbsp; <BR>
<BR>
I taught a leaded panel for beginners, then took them to copper foil and a simple lamp for intermediate.&nbsp; That included a new skill (copper foil) and new construction (3-d piece instead of flat), and emphasized better cutting.<BR>
<BR>
Or intermediate lead could include more intricate designs, more curves, use of different sized leads, etc.&nbsp; Also, you could add use of better glass, ripples, etc. and show the difference in quality of the finished piece with hand-selected art glass.<BR>
Ann</FONT></HTML>

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From owner-glass Sat Feb 23 12:48:37 2002
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From: Mike Savad <esavad@comcast.net>
To: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@cox.net>, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Subject: RE: What's  "intermediate" ?
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 14:56:38 -0500
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hard to say, it depends on what they did in the begginers course.

begginer, would be learning to cut glass, foil, solder, maybe basic design.

intermediate, they should know the basics. they should be able to cut glass
(not real hard stuff, but enough). they should know how to solder a basic
sun catcher and maybe a box.

advanced, would be the two things before. they should know how to free out
deep cuts. solder, and bead. and stuff like that.


---Mike Savad


-----Original Message-----
From: Suzanne Gunn [mailto:gunnx4@cox.net]
Sent: Saturday, February 23, 2002 1:50 PM
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: What's "intermediate" ?


If you have just had a beginning glass class...what would you want included
in your intermediate class?

What would you guys consider "intermediate"?

Those of you that teach, what do you teach in your intermediate classes?

I was thinking of more difficult glass cuts.  More lead lines intersecting
etc...

Ideas, opinions welcome.

Suzanne


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From owner-glass Sat Feb 23 13:28:48 2002
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@cox.net>
Subject: What's "intermediate" ?
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 21:19:53 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@verrier>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@cox.net>>
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Suzanne,
        I'd say an intermediate class is one that is trying to get the
people to be independent.  Yes there are still lots of questions, but
they should have a series of principles that they apply to various
design and construction problems.  This is where you take a back seat
and ask the students the question "what have you tried/done to solve
this problem?" in response to their questions.  
        It becomes an environment in which students are encouraged to
develop their own solutions to challenges, rather than rely on yours.

Steve

In message <1970Jan1.000.0@cox.net>, Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@cox.net>
writes
>If you have just had a beginning glass class...what would you want included
>in your intermediate class?
>
>What would you guys consider "intermediate"?
>
>Those of you that teach, what do you teach in your intermediate classes?
>
>I was thinking of more difficult glass cuts.  More lead lines intersecting
>etc...
>
>Ideas, opinions welcome.
>
>Suzanne
>
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
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-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Sat Feb 23 16:00:29 2002
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From: "Suzanne Gunn" <gunnx4@cox.net>
To: "Steve Richard" <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: What's "intermediate" ?
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 17:34:06 -0600
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Thanks for your responses...They will help me plan this class.

Suzanne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Richard" <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: "Suzanne Gunn" <gunnx4@cox.net>
Cc: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 23, 2002 3:19 PM
Subject: What's "intermediate" ?


> Suzanne,
>         I'd say an intermediate class is one that is trying to get the
> people to be independent.  Yes there are still lots of questions, but
> they should have a series of principles that they apply to various
> design and construction problems.  This is where you take a back seat
> and ask the students the question "what have you tried/done to solve
> this problem?" in response to their questions.
>         It becomes an environment in which students are encouraged to
> develop their own solutions to challenges, rather than rely on yours.
>
> Steve
>
> In message <1970Jan1.000.0@cox.net>, Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@cox.net>
> writes
> >If you have just had a beginning glass class...what would you want
included
> >in your intermediate class?
> >
> >What would you guys consider "intermediate"?
> >
> >Those of you that teach, what do you teach in your intermediate classes?
> >
> >I was thinking of more difficult glass cuts.  More lead lines
intersecting
> >etc...
> >
> >Ideas, opinions welcome.
> >
> >Suzanne
> >
> >
> >----
> >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> >To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
> --
> Steve Richard
> Verrier Art Glass Ltd
> s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk

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From owner-glass Sat Feb 23 16:16:40 2002
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X-Path: cox.net!gunnx4
From: "Suzanne Gunn" <gunnx4@cox.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: response to Carol
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 17:44:09 -0600
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For the sake of sending to the group...I dont know if I sent this to just
Carol...so am sending to the group as well.  Please pardon me if this is a
double message.

Suzanne

Carol,

Are you using little bitty lead?
Have you ever used "lead liner" tape?  Sounds like it would fix your problem
as long as the lead overlaps the glass when it's centered.  I love the
stuff.  (Especially when building a panel that someone else has cut)

I could use a class on using the morton system.  I swear there is money to
be made if someone could rewrite the instructions to where normal people
could understand them.  Ive watched and watched (is it Don?) the Morton man,
but I really need more than a demo or two. By the time I get home, I have
forgotten all Ive been shown!

Suzanne


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From owner-glass Sat Feb 23 18:04:32 2002
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From: "Leonard Chester" <lchesterjr@neo.rr.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: lead liner
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 20:24:25 -0500
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 > Are you using little bitty lead?
> Have you ever used "lead liner" tape?  Sounds like it would fix your
problem
> as long as the lead overlaps the glass when it's centered.  I love the
> stuff.  (Especially when building a panel that someone else has cut)

Suzanne
what is "lead liner"?
Candy
(trying to learn all this stuff, lol)

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Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 19:23:20 -0500
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_001F_01C1BC9F.8DA446E0
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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Suzanne,
What is lead liner tape? I've never heard of it. I don't think I got the =
original email question. Would love to see it. Thanks, Elaine
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Suzanne Gunn=20
  To: glass@bungi.com=20
  Sent: Saturday, February 23, 2002 6:44 PM
  Subject: response to Carol


  For the sake of sending to the group...I dont know if I sent this to =
just
  Carol...so am sending to the group as well.  Please pardon me if this =
is a
  double message.

  Suzanne

  Carol,

  Are you using little bitty lead?
  Have you ever used "lead liner" tape?  Sounds like it would fix your =
problem
  as long as the lead overlaps the glass when it's centered.  I love the
  stuff.  (Especially when building a panel that someone else has cut)

  I could use a class on using the morton system.  I swear there is =
money to
  be made if someone could rewrite the instructions to where normal =
people
  could understand them.  Ive watched and watched (is it Don?) the =
Morton man,
  but I really need more than a demo or two. By the time I get home, I =
have
  forgotten all Ive been shown!

  Suzanne


  ----
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2713.1100" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" size=3D2>Suzanne,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" size=3D2>What is lead liner tape? I've =
never heard=20
of it. I don't think I got the original email question. Would love to =
see it.=20
Thanks, Elaine</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A title=3Dgunnx4@cox.net href=3D"mailto:gunnx4@cox.net">Suzanne =
Gunn</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=3Dglass@bungi.com=20
  href=3D"mailto:glass@bungi.com">glass@bungi.com</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Saturday, February 23, =
2002 6:44=20
  PM</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> response to =
Carol</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV>For the sake of sending to the group...I dont know if I =
sent=20
  this to just<BR>Carol...so am sending to the group as well.&nbsp; =
Please=20
  pardon me if this is a<BR>double=20
  message.<BR><BR>Suzanne<BR><BR>Carol,<BR><BR>Are you using little =
bitty=20
  lead?<BR>Have you ever used "lead liner" tape?&nbsp; Sounds like it =
would fix=20
  your problem<BR>as long as the lead overlaps the glass when it's=20
  centered.&nbsp; I love the<BR>stuff.&nbsp; (Especially when building a =
panel=20
  that someone else has cut)<BR><BR>I could use a class on using the =
morton=20
  system.&nbsp; I swear there is money to<BR>be made if someone could =
rewrite=20
  the instructions to where normal people<BR>could understand =
them.&nbsp; Ive=20
  watched and watched (is it Don?) the Morton man,<BR>but I really need =
more=20
  than a demo or two. By the time I get home, I have<BR>forgotten all =
Ive been=20
  shown!<BR><BR>Suzanne<BR><BR><BR>----<BR>For subscription changes, =
please mail=20
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href=3D"mailto:glass-request@bungi.com">glass-request@bungi.com</A><BR>To=
=20
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available at <A=20
  =
href=3D"http://www.bungi.com/glass">http://www.bungi.com/glass</A><BR></B=
LOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-glass Sat Feb 23 21:11:32 2002
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X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: What's  "intermediate" ?
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 23:16:58 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com>
Precedence: bulk

Message text written by "Suzanne Gunn"
>If you have just had a beginning glass class...what would you want
included
in your intermediate class?

What would you guys consider "intermediate"?<

Some of the most frequently asked questions concern design considerations=
. =

I would include that in an intermediate class.  Also differences in your
choices of glass.  The differences between how glass looks when light is
transmitted through it versus reflected off it (i.e. "day time" lighting
versus "night time" lighting or interior verus exterior views of the same=

glass, etc.).  The different glass manufacturers and how their glass look=
s
(i.e. machine-made versus hand-blown antique plus all the inbetweens). =

Using the front or the back of glass.  Using textured glass for effects. =

How to handle highly textured glass in cutting, grinding, foiling and eve=
n
layout for soldering (i.e. should you solder the front or the back side o=
f
the panel "flat" when using glass of varying thicknesses).  The use of
50/50 and 60/40 solder, and when non-lead solder should be used.  Those a=
re
some of my first thoughts on an intermediate class.

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
Denton, TX
----
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From owner-glass Sat Feb 23 21:22:23 2002
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From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: bungi:Morton system
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 23:17:02 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com>
Precedence: bulk

Message text written by "Suzanne Gunn"
>I could use a class on using the morton system.  I swear there is money =
to
be made if someone could rewrite the instructions to where normal people
could understand them.  Ive watched and watched (is it Don?) the Morton
man,
but I really need more than a demo or two. By the time I get home, I have=

forgotten all Ive been shown!<

Amen to that!  And I've used one for 7 years now!!!  I could still use it=

better if someone would be able to quickly tell me how to set up a specif=
ic
degree of angle, like, say, a 45 degree angle, or the proper angle to
cutting out a piece which fits against a 3"x5" diamond bevel.

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
Denton, TX
----
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From owner-glass Sat Feb 23 22:12:24 2002
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From: "Suzanne Gunn" <gunnx4@cox.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: lead liner
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 23:42:34 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@cox.net>
Organization: glsasdancer
Precedence: bulk

(oops, did it again...here to group)

Well..I dont have a picture of it.
It's narrow sort of foamy stretchy stuff with adhesive on one side.  I dont
know who it is made by.  I imagine Hollander carries it.

When you have a peice of glass that is a bit short (small) you can stick it
on your glass or on your lead, it fills the gap to hold the glass more
snuggly so it doesnt rattle around too much or shift etc...

It's incredibly helpful when you are building a panel with lots of straight
lines that are broken up but obviously *have* to line up straight.

I hope this answers your question satisfactorily.

Suzanne


> Suzanne,
> What is lead liner tape? I've never heard of it. I don't think I got the =
> original email question. Would love to see it. Thanks, Elaine

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From owner-glass Sat Feb 23 22:45:38 2002
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From: "Suzanne Gunn" <gunnx4@cox.net>
To: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: What's  "intermediate" ?
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 23:51:43 -0600
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References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com>>
Organization: glsasdancer
Precedence: bulk

Great thoughts Christie...
'specially on when to use lead free solder.  Personally, I've never used it,
but of course there are applications for it that I've not pursued.  Would
you use it on a Kaleidoscope? (I've never built one, btw)

Suzanne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 23, 2002 10:16 PM
Subject: What's "intermediate" ?


> Message text written by "Suzanne Gunn"
> >If you have just had a beginning glass class...what would you want
> included
> in your intermediate class?
>
> What would you guys consider "intermediate"?<
>
> Some of the most frequently asked questions concern design considerations=
> . =
>
> I would include that in an intermediate class.  Also differences in your
> choices of glass.  The differences between how glass looks when light is
> transmitted through it versus reflected off it (i.e. "day time" lighting
> versus "night time" lighting or interior verus exterior views of the same=
>
> glass, etc.).  The different glass manufacturers and how their glass look=
> s
> (i.e. machine-made versus hand-blown antique plus all the inbetweens). =
>
> Using the front or the back of glass.  Using textured glass for effects. =
>
> How to handle highly textured glass in cutting, grinding, foiling and eve=
> n
> layout for soldering (i.e. should you solder the front or the back side o=
> f
> the panel "flat" when using glass of varying thicknesses).  The use of
> 50/50 and 60/40 solder, and when non-lead solder should be used.  Those a=
> re
> some of my first thoughts on an intermediate class.
>
> Christie A. Wood
> Art Glass Ensembles
> Denton, TX
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

----
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From owner-glass Sun Feb 24 06:24:36 2002
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From: DLEONE@SCOCA-K12.ORG
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; CHARSET=us-ascii
Subject: Labino Glass
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 08:52:28 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@SCOCA>
Precedence: bulk

To Whom It May Concern:

Sorry to bother you with this, but do you have any suggestions for me
pertaining to how I can go about determining the value of two 1970 Labino
vases that I have, and that I wish to sell. My deceased father was a
friend of Labino's and they used to fish together at the pond behind
Labino's shop in Grand Rapids, Ohio.  I am looking for assistance and I 
don't know where to start.

Thank you.

Dennis Leone
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From owner-glass Sun Feb 24 07:02:30 2002
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From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: What's  "intermediate" ?
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 09:28:05 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com>
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Message text written by "Suzanne Gunn"
>'specially on when to use lead free solder.  Personally, I've never used=

it,
but of course there are applications for it that I've not pursued.  Would=

you use it on a Kaleidoscope? (I've never built one, btw)<

I used lead-free solder for a class I was teaching
in the Fellowship Hall of a church, close to the
kitchen.  I didn't want to stress out the church
members by having lead soldering near their
kitchen, so we used lead-free solder.  I don't like
it as well as proper 50/50 or 60/40 solder.  The
lead-free requires a higher melting temperature,
and is "pasty".  It doesn't smooth out like the nice
60/40 does.  But I would definately use it if making
anything which routinely touches the skin, such as
jewelry.

I've never made a Kaleidoscope, nor do I think I
ever will.  I'm not into that type of small, delicate work.

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
Denton, TX
----
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From owner-glass Sun Feb 24 07:30:52 2002
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To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_001_0001_01C1BD1D.20C335D0"
Subject: Re: Morton System
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 10:22:14 -0500
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------=_NextPart_001_0001_01C1BD1D.20C335D0
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We run a class on the Morton system and require that each student bring h=
is/her own Maxi surface, portable glass shop and cutter and breaking tool=
s.  We then go through the entire system with each student doing each exe=
rcise themselves.  This helps to imbed the processes and directions into =
each students head.  Also if you write the plug numbers and shown lines o=
n the back of the angle stops you can quickly set up angles simply by loo=
king on the back of the stops when setting up.
Include in the cost of the class enough clear double strength glass ( eas=
iest and cheapest to cut and use) for each student, usually about 4 squar=
e feet.  =20

Robert Keane
Hee Sun Stained Glass, LTD.
2025 Suffolk Road Suite 9
Finksburg, MD 21048
410-833-3007
http://www.heesun.com =20
sales@heesun.comGet more from the Web.  FREE MSN Explorer download : http=
://explorer.msn.com

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<HTML><BODY STYLE=3D"font:10pt verdana; border:none;"><DIV> <DIV>We run a=
 class on the Morton system and require that each student bring his/her o=
wn Maxi surface, portable glass shop and cutter and breaking tools.&nbsp;=
 We then go through the entire system with each student doing each exerci=
se themselves.&nbsp; This helps to imbed the processes and directions int=
o each students head.&nbsp; Also if you write the plug numbers and shown =
lines on the back of the angle stops you can quickly set up angles simply=
 by looking on the back of the stops when setting up.</DIV> <DIV>Include =
in the cost of the class enough clear double strength glass ( easiest and=
 cheapest to cut and use) for each student, usually about 4 square feet.&=
nbsp; </DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>Robert Keane</DIV>Hee Sun Stained Gla=
ss, LTD.<BR>2025 Suffolk Road Suite 9<BR>Finksburg, MD 21048<BR>410-833-3=
007<BR>http://www.heesun.com <BR>sales@heesun.com</DIV></BODY></HTML><br =
clear=3Dall><hr>Get more from the Web.  FREE MSN Explorer download : <a h=
ref=3D'http://explorer.msn.com'>http://explorer.msn.com</a><br></p>

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From owner-glass Sun Feb 24 08:01:40 2002
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Subject: Re: Labino Glass
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The IGGA gets many requests for information on and value of glass art pieces. 
 While we are not skilled in that, my best recommendation is to contact 
galleries and museums that carry or display glass.  They would have experts 
on staff to help determine the value.

You can also try auction houses that have carried glass in the past.  Not all 
do.

There is one advantage coming up soon: April is "Glass Month" in many areas, 
and local papers or artist guilds will likely be printing up special glass 
exhibits.  I would start by contacting those galleries and shops that will be 
featured, especially in the local area of the artist.

Good luck.
Ann

P.S.  If any bungians know of special "Glass Month" exhibits in your local 
area, could you let me know?  Thanks...
 

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  COLOR="#004080" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Franklin Gothic Book" LANG="0">The IGGA gets many requests for information on and value of glass art pieces.&nbsp; While we are not skilled in that, my best recommendation is to contact galleries and museums that carry or display glass.&nbsp; They would have experts on staff to help determine the value.<BR>
<BR>
You can also try auction houses that have carried glass in the past.&nbsp; Not all do.<BR>
<BR>
There is one advantage coming up soon: April is "Glass Month" in many areas, and local papers or artist guilds will likely be printing up special glass exhibits.&nbsp; I would start by contacting those galleries and shops that will be featured, especially in the local area of the artist.<BR>
<BR>
Good luck.<BR>
Ann<BR>
<BR>
P.S.&nbsp; If any bungians know of special "Glass Month" exhibits in your local area, could you let me know?&nbsp; Thanks...<BR>
 </FONT></HTML>

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From owner-glass Sun Feb 24 09:10:51 2002
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From: CncptThnkr@aol.com
To: Ensembles@compuserve.com, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Morton system
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 11:37:15 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>
Precedence: bulk

Hello all,

Delphi in Lansing, Michigan has classes on the Morton System.  It's included 
in a class called "Tools of the Trade" and is being offered on March 30 and 
May 4.  (3 hours at $35.00)

Pat
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From owner-glass Sun Feb 24 09:42:13 2002
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From: "Suzanne Gunn" <gunnx4@cox.net>
To: <CncptThnkr@aol.com>,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Morton system
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 11:24:52 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@cox.net>
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Organization: glsasdancer
Precedence: bulk

Sounds like a good deal Pat...if I were close I'd take it.

Suzanne

----- Original Message -----
From: <CncptThnkr@aol.com>
To: <Ensembles@compuserve.com>; <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2002 10:37 AM
Subject: Morton system


> Hello all,
>
> Delphi in Lansing, Michigan has classes on the Morton System.  It's
included
> in a class called "Tools of the Trade" and is being offered on March 30
and
> May 4.  (3 hours at $35.00)
>
> Pat
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>

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From owner-glass Sun Feb 24 17:01:48 2002
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From: Sherry Greer <texpenguin@yahoo.com>
To: GlassList <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: re:  intermediate class
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 16:22:11 -0800 (PST)
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Precedence: bulk

How about info. on when and how to reinforce panels?  I had to turn
down a request for a larger panel (as a hobbyist with only a beginner
class and a year's experience), because I knew that the piece would be
large enough to require some form of reinforcement, but I hadn't a clue
how or what to do.    Maybe just a basic intro to restrip, rebar, etc,
where it would be inserted or attached and how.  Also, tricks on 3d
soldering, and soldering layers together (overlays).  These are just a
couple of things I wished I could take a class on, as I'd like to
further my abilities, but alas only beginner classes are taught here. 
Oh, and maybe a deeper discussion on pattern making--figuring out where
breaklines need to go, and how they must intersect other lines in order
to hold together and be possible to cut from glass.  I design a lot of
my own patterns, and I've had to learn the hard way (oops broke another
one!) the basic rules of pattern making.
Hey and while you're at it, could you come teach a class here in
Austin!?!
Sherry

=====
Sherry Greer
texpenguin@yahoo.com

__________________________________________________
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From owner-glass Sun Feb 24 17:32:26 2002
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X-Path: slonet.org!edupjohn
From: "Peggy W. Johnsen" <edupjohn@slonet.org>
To: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@cox.net>
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: What's  "intermediate" ?
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 16:49:11 -0800 (PST)
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References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@cox.net>>
Precedence: bulk

Suzanne:  My intermediate starts with a fan lamp.  This provides
reinforcement for the copper foil method and something of a free-form
panel.  Plus, most love the idea of a lamp.  Additionally, I provide
students an opportunity to do a small panel lamp.  It is usually at this
point that some students want to learn repair or have some other project
in mind.

Following the fan lamp and panel lamp, my students go into an "advanced"
class where they are given a pattern to enlarge up to a specified size
(minimum of 16 x 20).  All projects have to be transportable. Following
this, students then tell me what they want to do.  We will have done
mosaics, kaledioscopes, sg boxes, etc.  When you are ready for the lead
came class let me know and I will send you my "guide."  Peggy

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From owner-glass Sun Feb 24 19:03:09 2002
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X-Path: hotmail.com!mommabear776
From: "Rita Kimmons" <mommabear776@hotmail.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
Subject: making patterns from photos
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 20:46:33 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@hotmail.com>
Precedence: bulk

I have a photo of a dog that I would like to make in a pattern. I can not 
draw at all.  I have tried using the scanner and pattern resizer and pattern 
wizard { free trial downloads} but was unable to make a pattern.  Does 
anyone have any suggestions?

_________________________________________________________________
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From owner-glass Sun Feb 24 23:53:29 2002
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X-Path: attbi.com!byronw26
From: "Byron Wells" <byronw26@attbi.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: Beveling
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 22:55:57 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@attbi.com>
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Hey all...

I have a question for those of you that do hand beveling... What are you =
using for a prepolish wheel??  I have a 12" upright Glastar polisher =
with a diamond resin prepolish wheel and it sure doesnt seem to last =
very long and/or do that great a job... Are the aluminum oxide synthetic =
wheels any better??

Byron...
Wells Glassworks

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<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2713.1100" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Hey all...</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I have a question for those of you that do hand =
beveling...=20
What are you using for a prepolish wheel??&nbsp; I have a 12" upright =
Glastar=20
polisher with a diamond resin prepolish wheel and it sure doesnt seem to =
last=20
very long and/or do that great a job... Are the aluminum oxide synthetic =
wheels=20
any better??</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Byron...<BR>Wells =
Glassworks</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-glass Mon Feb 25 03:00:23 2002
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X-Path: northlights.co.uk!toby
From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: "Suzanne Gunn" <gunnx4@cox.net>,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: What's  "intermediate" ?
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 14:55:02 -0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@northlights.co.uk>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@cox.net>>
Precedence: bulk

Hi All,

Intermediate is one who can start working on their own, develop what they
have learnt on the first couple of panels. They begin to know what their own
limitations are and how to overcome them. I don't have to stand at their
elbow all the time.
Elisabeth 'n Toby in UK


> If you have just had a beginning glass class...what would you want
included
> in your intermediate class?
>
> What would you guys consider "intermediate"?
>
> Those of you that teach, what do you teach in your intermediate classes?
>
> I was thinking of more difficult glass cuts.  More lead lines intersecting
> etc...
>
> Ideas, opinions welcome.
>
> Suzanne
>
>

>
>

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From owner-glass Mon Feb 25 04:02:00 2002
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X-Path: attbi.com!byronw26
From: "Byron Wells" <byronw26@attbi.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: making patterns from photos
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 22:52:09 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@attbi.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@hotmail.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Have you tried the Spectrum site or others that have free patterns? You may
be able to find something close to the photo you have...

Byron...
Wells Glassworks

----- Original Message -----
From: "Rita Kimmons" <mommabear776@hotmail.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2002 8:46 PM
Subject: making patterns from photos


> I have a photo of a dog that I would like to make in a pattern. I can not
> draw at all.  I have tried using the scanner and pattern resizer and
pattern
> wizard { free trial downloads} but was unable to make a pattern.  Does
> anyone have any suggestions?
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
>
> ----
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> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>

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From owner-glass Mon Feb 25 07:40:08 2002
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X-Path: aol.com!Beveler4
From: Beveler4@aol.com
To: <byronw26@attbi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Re: Beveling
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 10:10:23 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>
Precedence: bulk

Hi Byron,
I made a complete set of wheels myself that mirror the wheels that you see in Vince Fox'es book on beveling.My smoothing wheel is made from a natural sand stone,and it was made in England I'm not sure that they are available anymore.I also have a wheel that is aluminum oxide which does a nice job but it isn't as nice as the natural wheel nor as fast.
Stan
Beveler's Glass Studio
Cinti Ohio 45247
513-385-4364
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From owner-glass Mon Feb 25 08:10:17 2002
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X-Path: cox.net!bobfuses
From: "Bob D." <bobfuses@cox.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: Beveling
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 07:19:21 -0800
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>>I have a question for those of you that do hand beveling... What are =
you =3D
using for a prepolish wheel??  I have a 12" upright Glastar polisher =3D
with a diamond resin prepolish wheel and it sure doesnt seem to last =3D
very long and/or do that great a job... Are the aluminum oxide synthetic =
=3D
wheels any better??<<

I use a 12" diamond/oxide disk for prepolishing and like it a lot. I =
also have a 12" aluminum oxide wheel that I do not like very much. I =
gave up using diamond resin prepolish wheels due to the expense and =
reduced quality.

Bob in 92026

Please note new email address of bobfuses@cox.net

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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><FONT face=3D"Times New Roman" =
size=3D3>&gt;&gt;I have=20
a question for those of you that do hand beveling... What are you =
=3D<BR>using for=20
a prepolish wheel??&nbsp; I have a 12" upright Glastar polisher =
=3D<BR>with a=20
diamond resin prepolish wheel and it sure doesnt seem to last =
=3D<BR>very long=20
and/or do that great a job... Are the aluminum oxide synthetic =
=3D<BR>wheels any=20
better??&lt;&lt;</FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><FONT face=3D"Times New Roman"=20
size=3D3></FONT></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I use a 12" diamond/oxide disk for =
prepolishing and=20
like it a lot. I also have a 12" <FONT face=3D"Times New Roman" =
size=3D3>aluminum=20
oxide wheel that I do not like very much. I gave up using diamond resin=20
prepolish wheels due to the expense and reduced quality.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><BR></FONT><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Bob in 92026</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Please note new email address of <A=20
href=3D"mailto:bobfuses@cox.net">bobfuses@cox.net</A></FONT></DIV></BODY>=
</HTML>

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From owner-glass Mon Feb 25 10:47:43 2002
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X-Path: semelab.co.uk!sbowley
From: "Shirley Bowley" <sbowley@semelab.co.uk>
To: <Glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Replacement saw
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 16:26:09 -0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@semelab.co.uk>
Precedence: bulk

Hello 

I wonder whether you could help, we are based in the UK and my father
has a Gryphen Band saw.  Where in the US could I contact to get a
replacement saw from  and what price can he expect to pay ?

Thanks in advance for your help

Regards


Shirley Bowley
mailto:sbowley@semelab.co.uk 
Tel: 00 44 (0)1455 556565
Fax: 00 44 (0)1455 552612


This e-mail, including any attached files, may be confidential and is intended solely for the person(s) to whom it is addressed. If you are not the recipient, then you should notify the sender and destroy the e-mail. The statements and opinions expressed are those of the individual sending the e-mail and are not necessarily those of the Company.
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From owner-glass Mon Feb 25 11:50:05 2002
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From: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie.Spitzer@stratus.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: RE: making patterns from photos
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 12:14:57 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@stratus.com>
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2 methods that i've used

1: go to the library or a nearby school to use their opaque projector
2: make a transparency out of it on a copier, and then display that using an
overhead projector.

regards,
charlie
cave creek, az

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rita Kimmons [mailto:mommabear776@hotmail.com]
> Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2002 7:47 PM
> To: glass@bungi.com
> Subject: making patterns from photos
> 
> 
> I have a photo of a dog that I would like to make in a 
> pattern. I can not 
> draw at all.  I have tried using the scanner and pattern 
> resizer and pattern 
> wizard { free trial downloads} but was unable to make a 
> pattern.  Does 
> anyone have any suggestions?
----
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From owner-glass Mon Feb 25 14:23:08 2002
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From: "Frank Mizzi" <frankgmizzi@hotmail.com>
To: mommabear776@hotmail.com
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
Subject: BUNGI: making patterns from photos
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 20:52:06 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@hotmail.com>
Precedence: bulk


Greetings,

This is just a list of what I DO when I need to get a pattern from a 
picture.  (I can draw LESS than you :)  )

1: Take a photocopy of the picture on paper.  Get this photocopy as large as 
you possibly can on the copy paper.

2: Go over the outline that you want with a very dark pencil or felt tip 
BLACK pen.

3: Make a photocopy of THIS outined copy but set the photocopier to very low 
contrast. This will hopefully make the outline stand out a lot more than the 
rest of the picture.  You may have to do this more than once so that 
eventually you get pretty much JUST the outine.  You could also achieve this 
by cutting out the "inside" of the picture with a sharp pinted knife.

4:  When you are happy with the outline, photocopy THIS outline onto a sheet 
of acetate film.

5: Place this acetate film photocopy onto an overhead projector which is 
pointing at a wall. Adjust the distance and/or zoom facility on the 
projector to give you an image on the wall which is the size you want your 
cartoon to be.

6: Hang a piece of paper on the wall so that the image falls onto it.  Make 
sure this piece of paper is sticky taped securly to the wall at a number of 
different points.

7: Use a pencil/felt pen to go over the outline that is projected onto the 
paper. It is a little awkward at times because you will be in the way of the 
beam so you will have to keep going from side to side.

8. Periodically turn the projector off or interrupt the beam enough to be 
able to see the lines you have already drawn.

9. Finished.

Hope this helps.

FGM

>From: "Rita Kimmons" <mommabear776@hotmail.com>
>To: glass@bungi.com
>Subject: making patterns from photos
>Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 20:46:33 -0600
>
>I have a photo of a dog that I would like to make in a pattern. I can not
>draw at all.  I have tried using the scanner and pattern resizer and 
>pattern
>wizard { free trial downloads} but was unable to make a pattern.  Does
>anyone have any suggestions?
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
>
>----
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>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp.

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From owner-glass Mon Feb 25 14:49:49 2002
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X-Path: yahoo.com!texpenguin
From: Sherry Greer <texpenguin@yahoo.com>
To: GlassList <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: re:  patterns from photos
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 14:12:30 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>
Precedence: bulk

I do this quite a bit using my scanner.  I scan the photo, then print
it out in greyscale at whatever size I want.  Greyscale makes it very
easy to pick out the major 'defining' lines of the photo.  I mark over
the lines with a black Sharpie marker, then use a window or lightbox,
to trace just the defining lines onto a clean sheet of paper.  At this
point, I usually scan my line drawing back into the computer, so that I
can print multiple copies at any size for later use.  Once you've
traced, you should also be able to see where you may need to add
breaklines for glass cutting.  Add any lines, borders etc, before you
scan back in.  I made a pattern from the American Beauty movie poster
for my best friends (who LOVE that movie), and made a suncatcher of the
rose over the belly button.  It turned out very nicely, and they LOVE
it too!

BTW, by a similar method you can make your own patterns for acid
etching glass or mosaics.  Instead of tracing the lines exactly trace
just inside each line, thus leaving white space between pattern pieces,
and scan back in.  For acid etching, print out on whole sheet computer
labels, cut with an exacto knife and apply to your glass.  I've done
seahorses, roses, chinese characters, etc on small votive holders and
suncatchers using this method.  
Sherry Greer

=====
Sherry Greer
texpenguin@yahoo.com


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From owner-glass Mon Feb 25 21:03:04 2002
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X-Path: erols.com!harperr
From: Bob Harper <harperr@erols.com>
To: Shirley Bowley <sbowley@semelab.co.uk>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Replacement saw
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 23:37:27 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@erols.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@semelab.co.uk>>
Precedence: bulk

Shirley,

Try the following urls:
http://www.khue.com/dept/grind/gryband.htm
http://www.stainedglassnews.co.uk/reviews.htm

Also try going to "google.com" and type in the saw name and it'll list several sources.

v/r bob h.
Southern Maryland, USA

Shirley Bowley wrote:

> Hello
>
> I wonder whether you could help, we are based in the UK and my father
> has a Gryphen Band saw.  Where in the US could I contact to get a
> replacement saw from  and what price can he expect to pay ?
>
> Thanks in advance for your help
>
> Regards
>
> Shirley Bowley
> mailto:sbowley@semelab.co.uk
> Tel: 00 44 (0)1455 556565
> Fax: 00 44 (0)1455 552612
>
> This e-mail, including any attached files, may be confidential and is intended solely for the person(s) to whom it is addressed. If you are not the recipient, then you should notify the sender and destroy the e-mail. The statements and opinions expressed are those of the individual sending the e-mail and are not necessarily those of the Company.
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From owner-glass Mon Feb 25 21:33:40 2002
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From: "Synergy Glass" <seaspray@island.net>
To: "Rita Kimmons" <mommabear776@hotmail.com>, <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: making patterns from photos....3 ways
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 10:09:43 -0800
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Rita

If you have a copy of Rapid Resizer program this will be easy.  Scan in the
photo in colour and store as bitmap format.  Open the rapid resizer and use
the filter mechanism to remove the color and slowly reduce the pattern to
the point where you see shapes that could be stained glass "pieces".
Eventually you may end up with outline shapes and from that you can draw
your pattern.

Or...do it the old fashioned way...get a pad of onionskin paper, put  a
sheet over the photo and outline the dog's shape on the tracing paper.  Then
use that to create your pattern.

Third.  You could get the photograph color copied onto an overhead projector
sheet at a copy center, then use an overhead projector and sketch out the
dog's shape.

Carol
Carol Swann
Synergy Glass & Creative
www.igga.org/synergy
seaspray@island.net

----- Original Message -----
From: "Rita Kimmons" <mommabear776@hotmail.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2002 6:46 PM
Subject: making patterns from photos


> I have a photo of a dog that I would like to make in a pattern. I can not
> draw at all.  I have tried using the scanner and pattern resizer and
pattern
> wizard { free trial downloads} but was unable to make a pattern.  Does
> anyone have any suggestions?
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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From owner-glass Tue Feb 26 01:41:54 2002
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From: Gerry Phibbs <glasscutter@earthlink.net>
To: Shirley Bowley <sbowley@semelab.co.uk>, Glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Bungi Re: Replacement saw
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 01:14:56 +0000
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Hi Shirley,
  Why not simply contact Gryphon Corporation?

  Gryphon Corporation
  12417 Foothill Blvd.
  Sylmar, CA 91342-6005 USA
  (818) 890-7777
  (818) 890-7775 FAX
  service@gryphoncorp.com - email
  www.gryphoncorp.com  - web site

  Personally, I think you'd be better off with an email, or to visit
their web site, but I figured I might as well give you as much contact
information as I had available.
  Peace  -Gerry Phibbs, International Guild of Glass Artists, Inc.
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From owner-glass Tue Feb 26 13:41:55 2002
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From: Joan <beadnik@yahoo.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Hot Glass Horizons in Corning, NY
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 11:46:02 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>
Precedence: bulk

Has anyone either attended, or is planning to attend,
the Hot Glass Horizons in Corning. NY in May?  Did you
feel it was worthwhile???  Do you have any advice
about accommodations in Corning??

I'd be interested in any impressions or advice you'd
like to share.

Thanks!

Joan

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From owner-glass Tue Feb 26 17:23:06 2002
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From: Lorley Oneyear <lorley@cox.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: soldering all night long
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Last night I soldered a copper foil project for about 6 hours. By the end 
my feet and back were aching. I solder standing up but maybe I should have 
used a stool for part of it. But if you wanted to break up your soldering 
sessions, would you solder front first and then the next day the back? What 
about the sticky residual flux that seeped over to the other side? I don't 
want to have any additional problems because I let the project sit a day or 
two. Or is it better to just bit the bullet and do it all in one day so 
after you're done you can clean the solder with the Dawn and baking soda 
and then you let it set after that. ??? Thanks, Lorley

--=======253439B=======--

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From owner-glass Wed Feb 27 04:49:08 2002
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From: WaynLinda@aol.com
To: beadnik@yahoo.com, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: Hot Glass Horizons in Corning, NY
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 07:21:15 EST
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I also would like more info on the Hot Glass ins Corning. Do you know the 
specific dates? Do they have a web site I could visit?
Thanks
Linda
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From owner-glass Wed Feb 27 05:47:33 2002
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From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: bungi:soldering all night long
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 08:22:43 -0500
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Message text written by Lorley Oneyear
>But if you wanted to break up your soldering =

sessions, would you solder front first and
then the next day the back? What =

about the sticky residual flux that
seeped over to the other side? I don't =

want to have any additional problems
because I let the project sit a day or two.<

Soldering over a two or three day project
without cleaning off the flux is OK.

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
Denton, TX
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From owner-glass Wed Feb 27 06:18:17 2002
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From: "Suzanne Gunn" <gunnx4@cox.net>
To: "Lorley Oneyear" <lorley@cox.net>,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: soldering all night long
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 07:56:23 -0600
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Wow...6 hours on one project?  You bet I'd split it up.
Are you talking a flat panels or 3 d?

Whichever.  I'd solder one side, wash the flux off, both sides, then go back
and solder the rest the next day.

Suzanne



----- Original Message -----
From: "Lorley Oneyear" <lorley@cox.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2002 6:03 PM
Subject: soldering all night long


> Last night I soldered a copper foil project for about 6 hours. By the end
> my feet and back were aching. I solder standing up but maybe I should have
> used a stool for part of it. But if you wanted to break up your soldering
> sessions, would you solder front first and then the next day the back?
What
> about the sticky residual flux that seeped over to the other side? I don't
> want to have any additional problems because I let the project sit a day
or
> two. Or is it better to just bit the bullet and do it all in one day so
> after you're done you can clean the solder with the Dawn and baking soda
> and then you let it set after that. ??? Thanks, Lorley
>

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From owner-glass Wed Feb 27 07:20:08 2002
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From: Mike Savad <esavad@comcast.net>
To: Lorley Oneyear <lorley@cox.net>, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Subject: RE: soldering all night long
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 09:51:02 -0500
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i try to do everything once. flux corrodes everything really fast. i do most
of my soldering sitting for the same reason you discovered. though a stretch
every so often is a good idea. but if i hae to leave my soldering. i'll
douse the project with denatured alchohol. i found that removes the flux
pretty well. then a gently wipe to soak up what's left. that works
reasonably well.

glue shouldn't be seeping anywhere, the iron is too hot.

perferably you should solder the back. it's easier to solder on top of old
solder, then old foil. because you never know when your coming back to the
project. something might happen and you may not be able to continue the next
day.


---Mike Savad



-----Original Message-----
From: Lorley Oneyear [mailto:lorley@cox.net]
Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2002 7:03 PM
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: soldering all night long


Last night I soldered a copper foil project for about 6 hours. By the end
my feet and back were aching. I solder standing up but maybe I should have
used a stool for part of it. But if you wanted to break up your soldering
sessions, would you solder front first and then the next day the back? What
about the sticky residual flux that seeped over to the other side? I don't
want to have any additional problems because I let the project sit a day or
two. Or is it better to just bit the bullet and do it all in one day so
after you're done you can clean the solder with the Dawn and baking soda
and then you let it set after that. ??? Thanks, Lorley

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From owner-glass Wed Feb 27 17:14:06 2002
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From: Lorley Oneyear <lorley@cox.net>
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Subject: Re: soldering all night long
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Thanks for all the info. This foiled project is a flat panel for the long 
narrow recessed window above the bathtub.  I'm kind of a picky solderer so 
I go back over some lines a couple of times. I use the liquid Denver flux 
and I think maybe I am using too much. So if I use a conservative amount of 
flux and wipe it off I could tackle the rest the next day. How do you wipe 
it down without saturating it? Lorley





At 07:16 PM 02/26/2002 -0800, Synergy Glass wrote:

>Lorley
>
>What kind of flux do you use?  I do a lot of big panels and will solder the
>front sometimes in sections over 2-3 days, cleaning flux off each night.
>Also, my panels don't have flux on the back when I switch them over.  Maybe
>your'e using too much and it's seeping through.  A little goes a long
>way...if you have hissing, spitting and popping (aka boiling flux) when you
>solder you're applying too much.  In that case it might just bleed through.
>
>If you're worried, finish soldering one side, clean the panel, flip it over
>and then clean the flipped side if you got flux on that side somehow.  If
>it's only sitting overnight, it's probably okay.
>
>Carol
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Lorley Oneyear" <lorley@cox.net>
>To: <glass@bungi.com>
>Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2002 4:03 PM
>Subject: soldering all night long
>
>
> > Last night I soldered a copper foil project for about 6 hours. By the end
> > my feet and back were aching. I solder standing up but maybe I should have
> > used a stool for part of it. But if you wanted to break up your soldering
> > sessions, would you solder front first and then the next day the back?
>What
> > about the sticky residual flux that seeped over to the other side? I don't
> > want to have any additional problems because I let the project sit a day
>or
> > two. Or is it better to just bit the bullet and do it all in one day so
> > after you're done you can clean the solder with the Dawn and baking soda
> > and then you let it set after that. ??? Thanks, Lorley
> >
>
>
>
>---
>Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
>Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
>Version: 6.0.325 / Virus Database: 182 - Release Date: 02/19/2002



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<html>
<font size=3>Thanks for all the info. This foiled project is a flat panel
for the long narrow recessed window above the bathtub.&nbsp; I'm kind of
a picky solderer so I go back over some lines a couple of times. I use
the liquid Denver flux and I think maybe I am using too much. So if I use
a conservative amount of flux and wipe it off I could tackle the rest the
next day. How do you wipe it down without saturating it? Lorley<br><br>
<br><br>
<br><br>
At 07:16 PM 02/26/2002 -0800, Synergy Glass wrote:<br><br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>Lorley<br><br>
What kind of flux do you use?&nbsp; I do a lot of big panels and will
solder the<br>
front sometimes in sections over 2-3 days, cleaning flux off each
night.<br>
Also, my panels don't have flux on the back when I switch them
over.&nbsp; Maybe<br>
your'e using too much and it's seeping through.&nbsp; A little goes a
long<br>
way...if you have hissing, spitting and popping (aka boiling flux) when
you<br>
solder you're applying too much.&nbsp; In that case it might just bleed
through.<br><br>
If you're worried, finish soldering one side, clean the panel, flip it
over<br>
and then clean the flipped side if you got flux on that side
somehow.&nbsp; If<br>
it's only sitting overnight, it's probably okay.<br><br>
Carol<br>
----- Original Message -----<br>
From: &quot;Lorley Oneyear&quot; &lt;lorley@cox.net&gt;<br>
To: &lt;glass@bungi.com&gt;<br>
Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2002 4:03 PM<br>
Subject: soldering all night long<br><br>
<br>
&gt; Last night I soldered a copper foil project for about 6 hours. By
the end<br>
&gt; my feet and back were aching. I solder standing up but maybe I
should have<br>
&gt; used a stool for part of it. But if you wanted to break up your
soldering<br>
&gt; sessions, would you solder front first and then the next day the
back?<br>
What<br>
&gt; about the sticky residual flux that seeped over to the other side? I
don't<br>
&gt; want to have any additional problems because I let the project sit a
day<br>
or<br>
&gt; two. Or is it better to just bit the bullet and do it all in one day
so<br>
&gt; after you're done you can clean the solder with the Dawn and baking
soda<br>
&gt; and then you let it set after that. ??? Thanks, Lorley<br>
&gt;<br><br>
<br><br>
---<br>
Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.<br>
Checked by AVG anti-virus system
(<a href="http://www.grisoft.com/" eudora="autourl">http://www.grisoft.com</a>).<br>
Version: 6.0.325 / Virus Database: 182 - Release Date:
02/19/2002</font></blockquote><br>
</html>


--=====================_933985==_.ALT--

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From owner-glass Wed Feb 27 20:18:12 2002
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From: Joan <beadnik@yahoo.com>
To: WaynLinda@aol.com, glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Re: Hot Glass Horizons in Corning, NY
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 19:23:07 -0800 (PST)
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Precedence: bulk

This is the website for Hot Glass Horizons:

http://www.hotglasshorizons.com/

Joan

--- WaynLinda@aol.com wrote:
> I also would like more info on the Hot Glass ins
> Corning. Do you know the 
> specific dates? Do they have a web site I could
> visit?
> Thanks
> Linda
 

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From owner-glass Thu Feb 28 09:55:24 2002
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damp sponge works, but the flux should be neutralized or it will start
corroding the solder, making it much harder to patina the next day.


---Mike Savad

  -----Original Message-----
  From: Lorley Oneyear [mailto:lorley@cox.net]
  Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2002 7:55 PM
  To: Synergy Glass; glass@bungi.com
  Subject: Re: soldering all night long


  Thanks for all the info. This foiled project is a flat panel for the long
narrow recessed window above the bathtub.  I'm kind of a picky solderer so I
go back over some lines a couple of times. I use the liquid Denver flux and
I think maybe I am using too much. So if I use a conservative amount of flux
and wipe it off I could tackle the rest the next day. How do you wipe it
down without saturating it? Lorley





  At 07:16 PM 02/26/2002 -0800, Synergy Glass wrote:


    Lorley

    What kind of flux do you use?  I do a lot of big panels and will solder
the
    front sometimes in sections over 2-3 days, cleaning flux off each night.
    Also, my panels don't have flux on the back when I switch them over.
Maybe
    your'e using too much and it's seeping through.  A little goes a long
    way...if you have hissing, spitting and popping (aka boiling flux) when
you
    solder you're applying too much.  In that case it might just bleed
through.

    If you're worried, finish soldering one side, clean the panel, flip it
over
    and then clean the flipped side if you got flux on that side somehow.
If
    it's only sitting overnight, it's probably okay.

    Carol
    ----- Original Message -----
    From: "Lorley Oneyear" <lorley@cox.net>
    To: <glass@bungi.com>
    Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2002 4:03 PM
    Subject: soldering all night long


    > Last night I soldered a copper foil project for about 6 hours. By the
end
    > my feet and back were aching. I solder standing up but maybe I should
have
    > used a stool for part of it. But if you wanted to break up your
soldering
    > sessions, would you solder front first and then the next day the back?
    What
    > about the sticky residual flux that seeped over to the other side? I
don't
    > want to have any additional problems because I let the project sit a
day
    or
    > two. Or is it better to just bit the bullet and do it all in one day
so
    > after you're done you can clean the solder with the Dawn and baking
soda
    > and then you let it set after that. ??? Thanks, Lorley
    >



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<DIV><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2><SPAN class=600265814-28022002>damp 
sponge works, but the flux should be neutralized or it will start corroding the 
solder, making it much harder to patina the next day.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2><SPAN 
class=600265814-28022002></SPAN></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2><SPAN 
class=600265814-28022002></SPAN></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2><SPAN 
class=600265814-28022002>---Mike Savad</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2><SPAN 
class=600265814-28022002></SPAN></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE>
  <DIV class=OutlookMessageHeader dir=ltr align=left><FONT face=Tahoma 
  size=2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B> Lorley Oneyear 
  [mailto:lorley@cox.net]<BR><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, February 27, 2002 7:55 
  PM<BR><B>To:</B> Synergy Glass; glass@bungi.com<BR><B>Subject:</B> Re: 
  soldering all night long<BR><BR></FONT></DIV><FONT size=3>Thanks for all the 
  info. This foiled project is a flat panel for the long narrow recessed window 
  above the bathtub.&nbsp; I'm kind of a picky solderer so I go back over some 
  lines a couple of times. I use the liquid Denver flux and I think maybe I am 
  using too much. So if I use a conservative amount of flux and wipe it off I 
  could tackle the rest the next day. How do you wipe it down without saturating 
  it? Lorley<BR><BR><BR><BR><BR><BR>At 07:16 PM 02/26/2002 -0800, Synergy Glass 
  wrote:<BR><BR>
  <BLOCKQUOTE class=cite cite type="cite">Lorley<BR><BR>What kind of flux do 
    you use?&nbsp; I do a lot of big panels and will solder the<BR>front 
    sometimes in sections over 2-3 days, cleaning flux off each night.<BR>Also, 
    my panels don't have flux on the back when I switch them over.&nbsp; 
    Maybe<BR>your'e using too much and it's seeping through.&nbsp; A little goes 
    a long<BR>way...if you have hissing, spitting and popping (aka boiling flux) 
    when you<BR>solder you're applying too much.&nbsp; In that case it might 
    just bleed through.<BR><BR>If you're worried, finish soldering one side, 
    clean the panel, flip it over<BR>and then clean the flipped side if you got 
    flux on that side somehow.&nbsp; If<BR>it's only sitting overnight, it's 
    probably okay.<BR><BR>Carol<BR>----- Original Message -----<BR>From: "Lorley 
    Oneyear" &lt;lorley@cox.net&gt;<BR>To: &lt;glass@bungi.com&gt;<BR>Sent: 
    Tuesday, February 26, 2002 4:03 PM<BR>Subject: soldering all night 
    long<BR><BR><BR>&gt; Last night I soldered a copper foil project for about 6 
    hours. By the end<BR>&gt; my feet and back were aching. I solder standing up 
    but maybe I should have<BR>&gt; used a stool for part of it. But if you 
    wanted to break up your soldering<BR>&gt; sessions, would you solder front 
    first and then the next day the back?<BR>What<BR>&gt; about the sticky 
    residual flux that seeped over to the other side? I don't<BR>&gt; want to 
    have any additional problems because I let the project sit a 
    day<BR>or<BR>&gt; two. Or is it better to just bit the bullet and do it all 
    in one day so<BR>&gt; after you're done you can clean the solder with the 
    Dawn and baking soda<BR>&gt; and then you let it set after that. ??? Thanks, 
    Lorley<BR>&gt;<BR><BR><BR><BR>---<BR>Incoming mail is certified Virus 
    Free.<BR>Checked by AVG anti-virus system (<A href="http://www.grisoft.com/" 
    eudora="autourl">http://www.grisoft.com</A>).<BR>Version: 6.0.325 / Virus 
    Database: 182 - Release Date: 
02/19/2002</FONT></BLOCKQUOTE><BR></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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