From owner-glass Sat Dec 1 11:33:36 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sat, 1 Dec 2001 11:20:47 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles From: "Christie A. Wood" To: Bungi Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Cleaning glass for foiling Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2001 09:20:32 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com> Precedence: bulk Message text written by Sherry Greer >Anyone have any tips on cleaning glass for foiling more quickly? = I just cleaned 3 projects worth, all with tiny little pieces, and my shoulders are killing me!< As I'm grinding, I keep a pan of clean water next to the grinder. As each piece is finished being ground, I place it into the pan of water. This soaks off the paper pattern (that's the method I use for copper foil projects) and cleans the ground glass out of the edges at the same time. After doing about 6 pieces, stop grinding and towel dry the ones which have been soaking in the water. Christie A. Wood Art Glass Ensembles Denton, TX ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Dec 1 15:36:23 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sat, 1 Dec 2001 15:26:59 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: hotmail.com!theglassparrott From: "Cheryl Parrott" To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/html Subject: Re preparing for foiling Date: Sat, 01 Dec 2001 12:01:34 -0800 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@hotmail.com> Precedence: bulk



Sherry,

I do a lot of copperfoil work.  I soak each piece of glass in rubbing alcohol for just a few seconds.  You will find that you do not have to scrub the oil off the glass.  Just dry the pieces off and you will no longer have any problems with the foil adhering to the glass.  I learned this trick about 15 years ago.

I have a large tupperware container which I keep the alcohol in.  Be sure to keep a lid on it or it will evaporate rather quickly plus the smell will make you think you are in a doctors office.

I use brass zinc for all my frames.  I also use brass patina.  I think the brass zinc gives the piece a classy and professional look.

Cheryl Parrott  (The Glass Parrott)


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---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Dec 1 19:06:26 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sat, 1 Dec 2001 18:54:26 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: juno.com!pkinnetz From: Peggy L Kinnetz To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain Subject: Re: solder problems & iron tips Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2001 08:29:45 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@juno.com> Precedence: bulk Thanks, Mike. I think I'll try to return the extra spools. It was so cheap that I bought a lot. Guess I'll try to stick with tried and true names, like Canfield, Avril or Fry or Hirsch. Is there much difference in these solders? BTW, if anyone knows what kind of tip I have (a beading tip with a 7 on the bottom, maybe a Weller one made for the 100 watt iron that is temp controlled by the tip?), I'd like to know if I should replace it with a beading tip speciically for my 80 watt iron, or can I use it okay without damage to my present one. Separate issue, will it heat sufficiently to do a decent bead--if it is a heat control tip, will it try to limit the temp. to my 80 watt iron? Peggy K. On Fri, 30 Nov 2001 19:41:42 -0500 "Mike Savad" writes: > > if you got it at the hardware store, then it has to be plumbers > solder, a > 95-5 or the like. not meant for beading. or patina, i believe. > > the fastest is 60-40 (actually 63-37 is the fastest, but it's more > money). > canfield's 50-50 is about the same as 60-40 from other places and > it's a bit > cheaper as well. the more tin in the solder, the faster it set's up. > 50-50 > is also used to fill gaps, and the 60-40 is set to melt at a lower > temp, > which helps prevent drip through's. > > > ---Mike Savad > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Peggy L Kinnetz [mailto:pkinnetz@juno.com] > Sent: Friday, November 30, 2001 3:22 PM > To: glass@bungi.com > Subject: solder problems > > > I recently bought a brand of solder at the hardware store, called > Permabond. Has anybody used this brand of solder? I think its > 50/50, at > least that is what I remember seeing somewhere in the store, maybe > on the > carton. It's nowhere on the label. It just doesn't seem to flow > very > well at all. I also have a beading tip on my iron (Weller 80), that > I'm > not sure, but may be a 700deg. tip. It has a 7 printed on the > bottom. > Would this be part of the problem, if the iron isn't getting hot > enough? > > > Just for information purposes, what solder melts the fastest and > which is > the slowest? 50/50 or 60/40 or 63/37 and what about leadfree > solder? I > tried Avril 60/40 solder, and it flows okay with this tip. Actually > the > Avril 50/50 which I used almost exclusively, did fine too. How can > two > 50/50 solders be so very different? > > Peggy K. > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Dec 1 20:55:44 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sat, 1 Dec 2001 20:33:54 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: home.com!kristc From: "Kris" To: "Bungi" Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: RE: New pictures Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2001 08:24:35 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@softhouse.com>> Precedence: bulk Thanks everyone who answered my questions! I didn't know about patterned dichro. I guess I have been out of the glass stores for too long :o) Kris ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Dec 2 04:06:37 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 2 Dec 2001 03:46:23 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: aol.com!UserDusty From: UserDusty@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Subject: Re: Picture Frames Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2001 06:37:30 EST Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com> Precedence: bulk Hi Sherry, I haven't made any picture frames yet, but I have used the zinc and copper u cames in other projects. It seems as though there is a coating on the zinc. I noticed this when I first started using it. There seemed to be a residue after I soldered it. I know there is a patina for zinc, but I was always afraid the colors would be different. What I did was to clean the copper or zinc with 0000 steel wool then tinned it before I used it. Then just used the regular patina for lead. Seemed to work quite well. Your other question on cleaning small pieces of glass. I sneak into the kitchen and if my wife isn't looking I use our small plastic strainer to put the pieces in. A little squirt of soap, swish it around and rinse real good with hot water. All the grit gets washed off. Then off in a flash to the basement undetected and I lay the pieces out on a paper towel to dry. The heat from the water aids in drying the glass. Later I clean the strainer and then I'm in the clear. Good Luck & Merry Christmas, Ken O. Decorative Glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Dec 2 11:10:50 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 2 Dec 2001 11:00:31 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: aol.com!JzzyGlass From: JzzyGlass@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Subject: Kiln wash Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2001 12:44:29 EST Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com> Precedence: bulk I am kiln washing a new mold and there is a spot on the ceramic mold the size of a dime that won't absorb kiln wash. Any suggestions on how to fix this problem? Thank you, Jill Medlyn ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Dec 2 11:45:34 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 2 Dec 2001 11:00:43 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: home.com!esavad From: "Mike Savad" To: "Peggy L Kinnetz" , Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: RE: solder problems & iron tips Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2001 22:57:54 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@juno.com>> Precedence: bulk the main difference in the glass solders is: the metal is more virgin. it didn't come from oldser solder and therefore easier to work with. plumbing solder has no lead. lead causes brain damage and it's not allowed in pipes. canfield one of the more expensive solders, but the solder is of a fine quality. truthfully though, i'll use whatever is on sale. i mostly have willard, canfield, and i think fry. my filler solder is old solder re-melted into ingots (fishing weights). then 60-40 goes on top of that. ---Mike Savad -----Original Message----- From: Peggy L Kinnetz [mailto:pkinnetz@juno.com] Sent: Saturday, December 01, 2001 8:30 AM To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: solder problems & iron tips Thanks, Mike. I think I'll try to return the extra spools. It was so cheap that I bought a lot. Guess I'll try to stick with tried and true names, like Canfield, Avril or Fry or Hirsch. Is there much difference in these solders? BTW, if anyone knows what kind of tip I have (a beading tip with a 7 on the bottom, maybe a Weller one made for the 100 watt iron that is temp controlled by the tip?), I'd like to know if I should replace it with a beading tip speciically for my 80 watt iron, or can I use it okay without damage to my present one. Separate issue, will it heat sufficiently to do a decent bead--if it is a heat control tip, will it try to limit the temp. to my 80 watt iron? Peggy K. On Fri, 30 Nov 2001 19:41:42 -0500 "Mike Savad" writes: > > if you got it at the hardware store, then it has to be plumbers > solder, a > 95-5 or the like. not meant for beading. or patina, i believe. > > the fastest is 60-40 (actually 63-37 is the fastest, but it's more > money). > canfield's 50-50 is about the same as 60-40 from other places and > it's a bit > cheaper as well. the more tin in the solder, the faster it set's up. > 50-50 > is also used to fill gaps, and the 60-40 is set to melt at a lower > temp, > which helps prevent drip through's. > > > ---Mike Savad > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Peggy L Kinnetz [mailto:pkinnetz@juno.com] > Sent: Friday, November 30, 2001 3:22 PM > To: glass@bungi.com > Subject: solder problems > > > I recently bought a brand of solder at the hardware store, called > Permabond. Has anybody used this brand of solder? I think its > 50/50, at > least that is what I remember seeing somewhere in the store, maybe > on the > carton. It's nowhere on the label. It just doesn't seem to flow > very > well at all. I also have a beading tip on my iron (Weller 80), that > I'm > not sure, but may be a 700deg. tip. It has a 7 printed on the > bottom. > Would this be part of the problem, if the iron isn't getting hot > enough? > > > Just for information purposes, what solder melts the fastest and > which is > the slowest? 50/50 or 60/40 or 63/37 and what about leadfree > solder? I > tried Avril 60/40 solder, and it flows okay with this tip. Actually > the > Avril 50/50 which I used almost exclusively, did fine too. How can > two > 50/50 solders be so very different? > > Peggy K. > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Dec 2 15:22:39 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 2 Dec 2001 15:14:21 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: stainedglass.co.uk!studio From: "studio@stainedglass.co.uk" To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Subject: Re: solder problems & iron tips Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2001 10:20:46 +0000 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@stainedglass.co.uk> Precedence: bulk At 08:29 AM 12/1/01 -0500, Peggy K wrote: > >BTW, if anyone knows what kind of tip I have (a beading tip with a 7 on >the bottom, maybe a Weller one made for the 100 watt iron that is temp >controlled by the tip?), I'd like to know if I should replace it with a >beading tip speciically for my 80 watt iron, or can I use it okay without >damage to my present one. Separate issue, will it heat sufficiently to do >a decent bead--if it is a heat control tip, will it try to limit the >temp. to my 80 watt iron? I am not a technician but it has been explained to me like this.... The 100 and 200 watt Wellers on sale in the UK regulate the temp by a soldenoid cutout system which turns it on and off. When the iron is hot enough the 'gizmo' knows because it has expanded until it touches the base of the tip and then it cuts off the heat. The different temperature tips are slightly different in length so the 'cooler' tips are touched earlier than the hotter ones. If the 100w tip fits your non-solenoid iron it will be heated to whatever temperature the iron can heat up to regardless of which number is on the tip. The heat will be dissipated as you use it but will probably be hotter after you have left it unused for a while, so with lead came work you will have to do a couple of test joints to take out the excess heat that has built up before doing your panel joints. If the USA models work differently from ours perhaps one of the USA based members can tell us? Regards EliZabeth in Bournemouth Bournemouth Stained Glass http://www.stainedglass.co.uk ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Dec 2 16:55:24 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 2 Dec 2001 16:41:22 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: home.com!gunnx4 From: Suzanne Gunn To: JzzyGlass@aol.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: Re: Kiln wash Date: Sun, 02 Dec 2001 18:42:54 -0600 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>> Organization: glassdancer Precedence: bulk Hey Jill! I had the same problem and asked lots of people including Brad Walker what to do...they all said "go for it anyway". The glass came off lickity split. Suzanne JzzyGlass@aol.com wrote: > > I am kiln washing a new mold and there is a spot on the ceramic mold the size > of a dime that won't absorb kiln wash. Any suggestions on how to fix this > problem? > > Thank you, > > Jill Medlyn > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Dec 2 17:00:33 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 2 Dec 2001 16:42:09 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: yahoo.com!texpenguin From: Sherry Greer To: GlassList Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: cutter/straight edge problem Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2001 14:52:30 -0800 (PST) Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com> Precedence: bulk I've been cutting out 4" squares for etched suncatchers. Sounds easy enough, right? But inevitably, when I make my long cuts with the grain, my cutter squeals in protest and the glass either shatters on the break or I have to break it out bit by bit, scattering glass shards everywhere. On the short cuts cross grain, I have no problems. I've been using thick acrylic quilter's rulers as my straight edge-a long for the long cuts and a 4" square one for the short cuts. So any ideas on how the large ruler is interfering with my cuts and the short one isn't? I lost a good bit of a really pretty glass piece because of this. What are everyone's opinions on straight edges? I like the quilter's rulers because they are see-through and are marked in 1" grids--very convenient. Thanks! Sherry ===== Sherry Greer texpenguin@yahoo.com __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Buy the perfect holiday gifts at Yahoo! Shopping. http://shopping.yahoo.com ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Dec 2 17:58:41 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 2 Dec 2001 17:42:19 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: yahoo.com!texpenguin From: Sherry Greer To: GlassList Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: thanks! Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2001 12:14:10 -0800 (PST) Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com> Precedence: bulk As always, thanks for all the great tips on picture frames! And Ken, you'd better be careful that your wife doesn't see that post! That would be like me using my mom's sewing scissors on paper! Sherry ===== Sherry Greer texpenguin@yahoo.com __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Buy the perfect holiday gifts at Yahoo! Shopping. http://shopping.yahoo.com ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Dec 2 18:28:19 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 2 Dec 2001 18:12:41 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: home.com!esavad From: "Mike Savad" To: "Sherry Greer" , Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: RE: cutter/straight edge problem Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2001 20:51:20 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>> Precedence: bulk i'll assume your using a regular carbide cutter. for starters, there is no grain to the glass unless it's textured. rulers are a pain to work with, you need to concentrate when making a cut against a ruler, the cutter needs to be exactly paralel (sp), to the ruler. i use aluminum (i think it's called the rainbow score board). it makes a terrible scrapy sound/vibration. so the cutter has to touch it but not be at an angle. the wheel has to roll not scrape. it's like ice skating with your feet at different angles. technically someone can drag you accross the ice, but you would make a mess, and probably hurt yourself in the process. it's easier to go forward and glide. the sound is the wheel suffering, and it's scratching the glass, not score, hence the glass shattering. i would get a morton board, or that score board (if they still sell that). if anything it will make cutting pieces faster... oh and i cut strips with a strip cutter, then use the score board to cut the strips. i found it's faster, because with a ruler you have to keep a lot of pressure on the ruler, or it will move. ---Mike Savad -----Original Message----- From: Sherry Greer [mailto:texpenguin@yahoo.com] Sent: Sunday, December 02, 2001 5:52 PM To: GlassList Subject: cutter/straight edge problem I've been cutting out 4" squares for etched suncatchers. Sounds easy enough, right? But inevitably, when I make my long cuts with the grain, my cutter squeals in protest and the glass either shatters on the break or I have to break it out bit by bit, scattering glass shards everywhere. On the short cuts cross grain, I have no problems. I've been using thick acrylic quilter's rulers as my straight edge-a long for the long cuts and a 4" square one for the short cuts. So any ideas on how the large ruler is interfering with my cuts and the short one isn't? I lost a good bit of a really pretty glass piece because of this. What are everyone's opinions on straight edges? I like the quilter's rulers because they are see-through and are marked in 1" grids--very convenient. Thanks! Sherry ===== Sherry Greer texpenguin@yahoo.com __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Buy the perfect holiday gifts at Yahoo! Shopping. http://shopping.yahoo.com ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Dec 2 19:31:48 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 2 Dec 2001 19:23:39 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: hotmail.com!theglassparrott From: "Cheryl Parrott" To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/html Subject: RE: cutter/straight edge problem Date: Sun, 02 Dec 2001 19:22:13 -0800 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@hotmail.com> Precedence: bulk



In 1979 when I took my first stained glass class I was given a 1" x 24" strip of 1/4" plexiglass for a straight edge. To this day, I still use that piece of plexi glass for my straight edge. it works perfect. Absolutely perfect. You can go to the hardware store and they can cut a strip for you. I've tried rulers and metal straight edges, however nothing works as well as the plexi glass. You may want to give that a try.
Cheryl Parrott
The Glass Parrott

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---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Dec 2 20:33:18 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 2 Dec 2001 20:21:40 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: home.com!cecnralph From: Cecily & Ralph Wood To: Bungi Glass Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Subject: Re: cutter/straight edge problem Date: Sun, 02 Dec 2001 21:28:57 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>> Organization: Grendel Studio Precedence: bulk Could the long one be a bit thicker? Maybe then the cutter gets tilted at an angle rather than fitting up against it nicely? - Cec Sherry Greer wrote: > I've been cutting out 4" squares for etched suncatchers. Sounds easy > enough, right? But inevitably, when I make my long cuts with the > grain, my cutter squeals in protest and the glass either shatters on > the break or I have to break it out bit by bit, scattering glass shards > everywhere. On the short cuts cross grain, I have no problems. I've > been using thick acrylic quilter's rulers as my straight edge-a long > for the long cuts and a 4" square one for the short cuts. So any ideas > on how the large ruler is interfering with my cuts and the short one > isn't? I lost a good bit of a really pretty glass piece because of > this. What are everyone's opinions on straight edges? I like the > quilter's rulers because they are see-through and are marked in 1" > grids--very convenient. Thanks! > Sherry > > ===== > Sherry Greer > texpenguin@yahoo.com > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Buy the perfect holiday gifts at Yahoo! Shopping. > http://shopping.yahoo.com > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Dec 2 21:33:44 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 2 Dec 2001 21:04:43 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: doorpi.net!mmam5 From: "Marci" To: "GlassList" Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Shipping Stained Glass Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2001 21:59:02 -0600 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@doorpi.net> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>> Precedence: bulk Here's a question for anyone who's had to ship larger stained glass panels. I want to ship a 3 foot x 4 foot panel. I can make a crate and ship it on a truck no problem. BUT - how else should I pack it to protect it for a cross country trip. (Besides putting it in my trunk and taking a vacation) Do I use bubble wrap around it? Would plywood on both sides be enough? What kind of reinforcements would be the best? Any help anyone can give would be greatful! Thanks! Marci Martin Designs ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Dec 2 22:04:57 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 2 Dec 2001 21:58:38 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: gjr From: gjr@bungi.com (Glenna Rand) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Glass Expo Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2001 21:58:17 PST Message-ID: Precedence: bulk Aloha everyone, Just checking who's gonna be at the Glass Expo in 2002. Anyone sign up yet? I hope to be there. See you there! -- Glenna Rand gjr@bungi.com ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Dec 3 06:36:35 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 3 Dec 2001 06:22:12 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: aol.com!JzzyGlass From: JzzyGlass@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Subject: Las Vegas Glass Expo 2002 website Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 09:16:11 EST Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com> Precedence: bulk http://www.glasscraftexpo.com/2002/ ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Dec 3 07:01:57 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 3 Dec 2001 06:25:42 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: home.com!esavad From: "Mike Savad" To: Content-Type: multipart/alternative; Subject: RE: cutter/straight edge problem Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 09:21:49 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@hotmail.com>> Precedence: bulk This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C17BDB.EFB11A20 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit as a basic ruler i wind up using the edge guide that came with my grinder. i also have a larger one that i got at one point... ---Mike Savad -----Original Message----- From: Cheryl Parrott [mailto:theglassparrott@hotmail.com] Sent: Sunday, December 02, 2001 10:22 PM To: glass@bungi.com Subject: RE: cutter/straight edge problem In 1979 when I took my first stained glass class I was given a 1" x 24" strip of 1/4" plexiglass for a straight edge. To this day, I still use that piece of plexi glass for my straight edge. it works perfect. Absolutely perfect. You can go to the hardware store and they can cut a strip for you. I've tried rulers and metal straight edges, however nothing works as well as the plexi glass. You may want to give that a try. Cheryl Parrott The Glass Parrott ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- -- Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C17BDB.EFB11A20 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

as a basic ruler i wind up using = the edge guide=20 that came with my grinder. i also have a larger one that i got at one=20 point...
 
 
 
---Mike = Savad
 
 
 
 -----Original = Message-----
From:=20 Cheryl Parrott [mailto:theglassparrott@hotmail.com]
Sent: = Sunday,=20 December 02, 2001 10:22 PM
To: = glass@bungi.com
Subject: RE:=20 cutter/straight edge problem



In 1979 when I took my first stained glass class I was = given a 1" x=20 24" strip of 1/4" plexiglass for a straight edge. To this day, I still = use=20 that piece of plexi glass for my straight edge. it works perfect. = Absolutely=20 perfect. You can go to the hardware store and they can cut a strip for = you.=20 I've tried rulers and metal straight edges, however nothing works as = well as=20 the plexi glass. You may want to give that a try.=20
Cheryl Parrott=20
The Glass Parrott

Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
----=20 For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To = send to=20 the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at=20 http://www.bungi.com/glass
------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C17BDB.EFB11A20-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Dec 3 07:42:16 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 3 Dec 2001 07:01:49 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: horsfieldwatford.demon.co.uk!john From: "john & kay" To: Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Light Boxes Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 13:49:54 -0000 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@horsfieldwatford.demon.co.uk> Precedence: bulk Hi Just to introduce myself as a new member. My name is John Horsfield from Watford UK. I am thinking of making a light box and wonder if anyone has a template, specifications or advice. Thanks ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Dec 3 07:42:32 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 3 Dec 2001 07:03:54 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: horsfieldwatford.demon.co.uk!john From: "john & kay" To: Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Light Boxes Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 13:49:53 -0000 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@horsfieldwatford.demon.co.uk> Precedence: bulk Hi Just to introduce myself. My name is john Horsfield from Watford UK and i have just joined the list. I want to make a light box and wonder if anyone has any advice, specifications or templates. Thanks ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Dec 3 09:33:10 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 3 Dec 2001 09:14:38 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles From: "Christie A. Wood" To: Bungi Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Shipping Stained Glass Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 11:28:05 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com> Precedence: bulk Message text written by "Marci" >I want to ship a 3 foot x 4 foot panel. I can make a crate and ship it o= n a truck no problem. BUT - how else should I pack it to protect it for a cro= ss country trip. (Besides putting it in my trunk and taking a vacation) Do I use bubble wrap around it? Would plywood on both sides be enough? Wh= at kind of reinforcements would be the best?< Plywood front and back, then screwed into a wooden 2x4 frame is best. Then vertical mount that on top of a skid pallet. Cross brace it by screwing the 2x4 frame into the skid, then use steel mounting straps to further secure the frame to the skid. If you don't want to do all that by yourself, call up your closest stained glass distributor and ask to purchase one of their packing crates from Wissmach glass. These crates are used to transport 9+ square feet sheets of Wissmach glass, and are already created with the steel strapping. They are also easy to put onto a skid pallet. Make sure it's Wissmach, not Spectrum. Spectrum's shipping crates will be too long and narrow for your panel. Christie A. Wood Art Glass Ensembles Denton, TX ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Dec 3 09:33:59 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 3 Dec 2001 09:25:58 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: hotmail.com!mommabear776 From: "Rita Kimmons" To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed Subject: Gatewayed mail message Date: Mon, 03 Dec 2001 07:56:42 -0600 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@hotmail.com> Precedence: bulk When and where is the Glass Expo? Where do I go to find out information on it? _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Dec 3 10:13:37 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 3 Dec 2001 09:32:10 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles From: "Christie A. Wood" To: Bungi Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: cutter/straight edge problem Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 11:28:03 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com> Precedence: bulk Message text written by Sherry Greer >So any ideas on how the large ruler is interfering with my cuts and the short one isn't? I lost a good bit of a really pretty glass piece because of this. What are everyone's opinions on straight edges? I like the quilter's rulers because they are see-through and are marked in 1" grids--very convenient.< Sounds like the quilter's ruler is not allowing the cutting head on your glass cutter to make proper contact with the glass. Me? I use the Morton Portable Glass system to make my straight line cuts. It works with the Morton Mini or Maxi Surfaces, and is made specifically for glass cutting. Works every time. For extremely long straight cuts (i.e. over 30") I use a T Square. Christie A. Wood Art Glass Ensembles Denton, TX ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Dec 3 12:04:24 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 3 Dec 2001 11:57:55 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard From: Steve Richard To: JzzyGlass@aol.com Subject: Re: Kiln wash Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2001 22:26:34 +0000 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@verrier> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>> Precedence: bulk Jill Is that spot glazed, or shiny? If so it won't take kiln wash in the normal way. you can get it to take the wash if you heat it to about 125 degrees C and then spray or brush on the wash while the mould is hot. Steve In message <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>, JzzyGlass@aol.com writes > >I am kiln washing a new mold and there is a spot on the ceramic mold the size >of a dime that won't absorb kiln wash. Any suggestions on how to fix this >problem? > >Thank you, > >Jill Medlyn >---- >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com >To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass -- Steve Richard Verrier Art Glass Ltd s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Dec 3 13:53:11 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 3 Dec 2001 13:32:06 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: yahoo.com!texpenguin From: Sherry Greer To: GlassList Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: cutter thanks Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 13:22:09 -0800 (PST) Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com> Precedence: bulk As always, you guys sure know your stuff! I learn so much from this list. Yes, my ruler is pretty thick, and yes, I'd bet I'm holding the cutter at an angle. I'll definately work on fixing that! Sherry ===== Sherry Greer texpenguin@yahoo.com __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Buy the perfect holiday gifts at Yahoo! Shopping. http://shopping.yahoo.com ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Dec 3 17:32:14 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 3 Dec 2001 17:24:34 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: shaw.ca!henco From: Darlene Hendler To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: Glenna's work Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 10:32:38 -0600 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@shaw.ca> Precedence: bulk Those pieces are exquisite. Keep up the great work. Darlene ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Dec 3 21:01:47 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 3 Dec 2001 20:48:14 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: gjr From: gjr@bungi.com (Glenna Rand) To: "Rita Kimmons" , glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Gatewayed mail message Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 20:46:39 PST Message-ID: Precedence: bulk [In the message entitled "Gatewayed mail message" on Dec 3, 7:56, "Rita Kimmons" writes:] > When and where is the Glass Expo? > Where do I go to find out information on it? See: http://www.glasscraftexpo.com/2002/art.php -- Glenna Rand gjr@bungi.com ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Dec 4 03:54:28 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 4 Dec 2001 03:39:31 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: home.com!gunnx4 From: Suzanne Gunn To: Kris Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: Re: New pictures Date: Mon, 03 Dec 2001 22:32:30 -0600 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>> Organization: glassdancer Precedence: bulk lol Kris...I just can afford to look in the dichro bins. Suzanne Kris wrote: > > Thanks everyone who answered my questions! I didn't know about patterned > dichro. I guess I have been out of the glass stores for too long :o) > > Kris > > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Dec 4 09:40:48 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 4 Dec 2001 09:30:22 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: aol.com!ARTIZ01 From: ARTIZ01@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Subject: Decals for fusing glass Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 09:21:04 EST Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com> Precedence: bulk Can you tell me where I can get decals for fusing on glass. I would like to try this. If you have any information to get me started please let me know. I was looking for lighthouses and birds. I saw a lighthouse that was fused into a bottle, I thought that was so neat and I would like to try it on flat glass for my family room, as I have all lighthouses and birds. Question 1: where can I find decals Question 2: what kind of glass do I have to use Question 3: what would the fire temp. have to be. any help would really be appreciated. Thanks Bob ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Dec 4 15:31:11 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 4 Dec 2001 15:06:36 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: softhouse.com!giapet From: "Karen K" To: , Subject: Re: Decals for fusing glass Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 17:01:29 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@softhouse.com> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>> Precedence: bulk Decals can be found either here http://www.enameling.com/page10.html#Enamel or you can go to Thompson's site and find a closer distributor here. http://www.thompsonenamel.com/welcome/main.htm You need to apply to a very smooth glass, then fire around 1400-1450 degrees. Karen giapet@softhouse.com > Can you tell me where I can get decals for fusing on glass. I would like to > try this. > If you have any information to get me started please let me know. I was > looking for lighthouses and birds. I saw a lighthouse that was fused into a > bottle, I thought that was so neat and I would like to try it on flat glass > for my family room, as I have all lighthouses and birds. > Question 1: where can I find decals > Question 2: what kind of glass do I have to use > Question 3: what would the fire temp. have to be. > any help would really be appreciated. > Thanks Bob > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Dec 4 16:02:04 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 4 Dec 2001 15:47:06 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: beadbimbo.com!jerri From: "Jerri" To: Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: stained glass cookies Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 18:45:55 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@beadbimbo.com> Precedence: bulk Ok, I had it somewhere, but can't find it, and I'm sure I'm not the only one who'll want it this Christmas. Our Arts Center is doing a cookie exchange at the next meeting, and I want to take some Stained glass cookies. I think they are basically sugar cookies and you punch in the middle and put in crushed hard candy to melt. Would someone post the recipe, please?????? Thanks, Jerri www.beadbimbo.com ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Dec 4 17:31:46 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 4 Dec 2001 17:10:04 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: doorpi.net!mmam5 From: "Marci" To: "Jerri" , Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Re: stained glass cookies Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 19:04:30 -0600 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@doorpi.net> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@beadbimbo.com>> Precedence: bulk Here you go Jerri - Although I'm sure you'll get many copies!! :) 1 Cup sugar 3/4 Cup butter or margarine, softened 1 teaspoon vanilla 2 eggs 2 1/2 Cups flour 1 teaspoon baking powder 1/4 teaspoon salt 4 rolls (about 1 ounce each) ring-shaped hard candy or other fruit-flavored hard candy (lifesavers or jolly rogers) Beat sugar, butter, vanilla and eggs in large bowl with mixer. Stir in flour, baking powder and salt. Cover and refrigerate about 1 hour or until firm. Heat over to 375 deg. Cover cookie sheet with parchment paper or aluminum foil. Roll one-third of dough at a time about 1/8" thick on lightly floured cloth-covered surface. Cut into desired shapes. Place on parchment paper. Cut out designs from cookies using smaller cutters or your own patterns. Place whole or partially crushed pieces of candy in cutouts, depending on size and shape of design. Bake 7 to 9 minutes or until cookies are very light brown and candy is melted. If candy has not completely spread within cutout design, immediately spread with knife. Cool completely on foil. To hang them - - push a tooth pick thru the dough before they are complete cooled. Then you can hang them on your Christmas Tree!!! :) Have fun! We made these for our Thanksgiving party! Marci Martin Designs. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jerri" To: Sent: Tuesday, December 04, 2001 5:45 PM Subject: stained glass cookies > Ok, I had it somewhere, but can't find it, and I'm sure I'm not the only one > who'll want it this Christmas. Our Arts Center is doing a cookie exchange > at the next meeting, and I want to take some Stained glass cookies. I think > they are basically sugar cookies and you punch in the middle and put in > crushed hard candy to melt. > > Would someone post the recipe, please?????? > > Thanks, > Jerri > www.beadbimbo.com > > > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Dec 4 21:53:00 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 4 Dec 2001 21:39:30 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: home.com!cecnralph From: Cecily & Ralph Wood To: Bungi Glass Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Subject: kiln paper Date: Tue, 04 Dec 2001 22:06:08 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com> Organization: Grendel Studio Precedence: bulk I've been using it for the first time. When you first fire it to get rid of the binders, etc...what color should it be after firing? a grey color? How long and how high does it need to be fired. Seems like it takes a long time and a pretty high temperature. Also, it really seems to shrink. I cut it to fit the kiln shelf and after firing (the real firing with the glass) it had shrunk a good inch in on all sides. Am I doing something wrong? Thanks - Cec ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Dec 5 13:32:49 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 5 Dec 2001 13:00:56 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: earthlink.net!meyer64 From: "Meyer" To: Subject: Re: Glass Expo Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 11:55:08 -0800 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@earthlink.net> References: <> Precedence: bulk I will be there. I am going to take on of Dennis Brady's classes. Debra Meyer ----- Original Message ----- From: "Glenna Rand" To: Sent: Sunday, December 02, 2001 9:58 PM Subject: Glass Expo > Aloha everyone, > > Just checking who's gonna be at the Glass Expo in 2002. Anyone sign up > yet? > I hope to be there. See you there! > > -- > Glenna Rand > gjr@bungi.com > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Dec 5 19:10:13 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 5 Dec 2001 18:53:07 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles From: "Christie A. Wood" To: Bungi Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Decals for fusing glass Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2001 09:29:49 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com> Precedence: bulk Message text written by INTERNET:ARTIZ01@aol.com >Can you tell me where I can get decals for fusing on glass. I would like= to = try this. If you have any information to get me started please let me know. I was = looking for lighthouses and birds. I saw a lighthouse that was fused int= o a = bottle, I thought that was so neat and I would like to try it on flat gla= ss for my family room, as I have all lighthouses and birds. Question 1: where can I find decals Question 2: what kind of glass do I have to use Question 3: what would the fire temp. have to be. any help would really be appreciated.< You can fuse enamel decals onto glass. Best results are firing onto clear glass, such as Spectrum clear Artique or regular float glass. I get my decals from Coronet Decals: 12 North School Lane, Lancaster, PA 17603 phone 717-394-1212 fax: 717-394-3889 Tons of designs for both china & glass firings. Two full pages of bird designs. One full sheet of lighthouses. I use a couple of their floral designs. Coronet also carries designs by Johnson Matthey Ceramic Materials (English). I fire my decals at 1050 degrees. The only time I had a real problem was when I tried firing them onto Wissmach white opaque glass. It just was incompatible and ended up frying the decal. Firing onto clear glass has produced the best results for me. Christie A. Wood Art Glass Ensembles Denton, TX ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Dec 6 12:46:26 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 6 Dec 2001 12:36:47 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: yahoo.com!beadnik From: Joan To: Jerri , glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: Re: stained glass cookies Date: Thu, 6 Dec 2001 12:04:04 -0800 (PST) Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@beadbimbo.com>> Precedence: bulk Hi Jerri..... Here's another one... this one is easy and delish! STAINED GLASS WINDOWS . About 4 dozen cookies . ½ cup (1 stick) butter, softened 1 package (12 ounces) semisweet chocolate chips 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 1 cup chopped walnuts 1 package (10½ ounces) multicolored miniature marshmallows 1 cup sweetened flaked coconut, divided . In a large saucepan, melt the butter and chocolate chips over low heat, stirring constantly. Remove the saucepan from the heat and stir in the vanilla and walnuts. Cool the mixture for about 15 minutes, until cool but not to the point of hardening. Fold in the marshmallows and stir until well coated. . Spoon half of the mixture lengthwise down the center of an 18-inch piece of waxed paper. Shape into a 12" x 2" log and place at one edge of the waxed paper. Sprinkle ½ cup coconut over the remainder of the waxed paper. Roll the log over the coconut, evenly coating the outside of the entire log. Wrap the log tightly in the waxed paper, folding the ends snugly. Repeat with the other half of the marshmallow mixture and the remaining ½ cup coconut. . Chill until firm, at least 2 hours or overnight. Unwrap each log and cut into ½-inch slices. Enjoy!!! Joan --- Jerri wrote: > Ok, I had it somewhere, but can't find it, and I'm > sure I'm not the only one > who'll want it this Christmas. Our Arts Center is > doing a cookie exchange > at the next meeting, and I want to take some Stained > glass cookies. I think > they are basically sugar cookies and you punch in > the middle and put in > crushed hard candy to melt. > > Would someone post the recipe, please?????? > > Thanks, > Jerri > www.beadbimbo.com > > > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: > glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: > glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send your FREE holiday greetings online! http://greetings.yahoo.com ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Dec 6 13:03:11 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 6 Dec 2001 12:40:25 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: woh.rr.com!arasai From: "Sarah" To: Subject: Lead Question Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2001 10:40:38 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@woh.rr.com> Precedence: bulk Hi to all, I have a question about lead came. I am repairing a 60 year old lamp shade for a customer. At the base of the crown, there is a wide flat band of lead came, which was wrapped around to hide the meeting of the crown and top set of panels. It's a little wider than 1/2 inch. Does anyone know how they made this flat band? It looks hand-made. I may have to replace it when I get to that stage of the repair. I hope everyone is enjoying the holidays! Sarah ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Dec 6 20:44:51 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 6 Dec 2001 19:45:26 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles From: "Christie A. Wood" To: Bungi Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Re: Decals for fusing glass Date: Thu, 6 Dec 2001 22:42:03 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com> Precedence: bulk Message text written by INTERNET:Patty.McMaster@fbol.com >Are you using decals for GLASS or just regular decals I know when I did ceramics years ago there were both< The decals I've been using are regular ceramic decals, but Coronet offers both ceramic and glass decals in their catalog. Christie A. Wood Art Glass Ensembles Denton, TX ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Dec 7 03:25:40 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 7 Dec 2001 03:06:14 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: home.com!cecnralph From: Cecily & Ralph Wood To: Bungi Glass Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Subject: haik brush & kiln wash Date: Fri, 07 Dec 2001 01:06:31 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com> Organization: Grendel Studio Precedence: bulk My brush keeps depositing hairs on the firing shelf. Almost any normal wide paint brush would do better? What consistancy should the kiln wash be? When I first tried using it, I made it about potters slip consistancy and that just soaked into the shelf so fast you couldn't begin to get it smooth. This time I've made it more like skimmed milk, and have given it about 6 coats and I can still see right thru to the ceramic shelf. That's not enough, is it? I do need to add more? - Cec ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Dec 7 10:21:16 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 7 Dec 2001 10:01:52 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles From: "Christie A. Wood" To: Bungi Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: haik brush & kiln wash Date: Fri, 7 Dec 2001 10:03:02 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com> Precedence: bulk Message text written by Cecily & Ralph Wood >What consistancy should the kiln wash be? When I first tried using it, I made it about potters slip consistancy and that just soaked into the shelf so fast you couldn't begin to get it smooth. This time I've made it more like skimmed milk, and have given it about 6 coats and I can still see right thru to the ceramic shelf. That's not enough, is it? I do need to add more? < The instructions for the kiln wash I use say 1 part kiln wash to 5 parts water. I.E. very thin. Apply in multiple washes. I usually apply only 3-4 coats of the thin wash, and can use it for up to 5 firings. But then= , I'm not terribly concerned about absolute flatness on the shelf. Every month or so I scrape the kiln shelf back down to near-base and reapply ki= ln wash over a fresh surface. As to your haik brush shedding, ....hmmm....mine doesn't shed. Never has= . = Maybe you should invest in a new brush? Christie A. Wood Art Glass Ensembles Denton, TX ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Dec 7 19:41:18 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 7 Dec 2001 19:31:04 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: home.com!cecnralph From: Cecily & Ralph Wood To: Bungi Glass Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Subject: Re: haik brush & kiln wash Date: Fri, 07 Dec 2001 19:40:03 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com>> Organization: Grendel Studio Precedence: bulk Thanks to those who replied. I think I'm going to sacrifice a new paint brush and give up on the haik one. And I'm going to try getting the proportion of water to clay better. Foirtunately I don't need to worry about that til after Xmas because my husband, bless his heart, stopped and got some more kiln paper. - Cec "Christie A. Wood" wrote: > Message text written by Cecily & Ralph Wood > >What consistancy should the kiln wash be? When I first tried using it, > I made it about potters slip consistancy and that just soaked into the > shelf so fast you couldn't begin to get it smooth. This time I've made > it more like skimmed milk, and have given it about 6 coats and I can > still see right thru to the ceramic shelf. That's not enough, is it? I > do need to add more? < > > The instructions for the kiln wash I use say 1 part kiln wash to 5 parts > water. I.E. very thin. Apply in multiple washes. I usually apply only > 3-4 coats of the thin wash, and can use it for up to 5 firings. But then= > , > I'm not terribly concerned about absolute flatness on the shelf. Every > month or so I scrape the kiln shelf back down to near-base and reapply ki= > ln > wash over a fresh surface. > > As to your haik brush shedding, ....hmmm....mine doesn't shed. Never has= > . = > > Maybe you should invest in a new brush? > > Christie A. Wood > Art Glass Ensembles > Denton, TX > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Dec 7 20:41:39 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 7 Dec 2001 20:20:17 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: northlights.co.uk!toby From: "Toby" To: "Cecily & Ralph Wood" Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Re: haik brush & kiln wash Date: Fri, 7 Dec 2001 17:07:15 -0000 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@northlights.co.uk> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>> Precedence: bulk I use an ordinary good quality paint brush, mix the kiln wash to whipping cream consistency and put about 6-8 coats on; each time starting from a different angle of the shelf. The thinner the coating, the more layers you will need. The advantage of thin mix is that you get no brush "stripes" on the glass.... but it does need more coats. Best Regards Elisabeth 'n Toby in UK > My brush keeps depositing hairs on the firing shelf. Almost any normal > wide paint brush would do better? > > What consistancy should the kiln wash be? When I first tried using it, > I made it about potters slip consistancy and that just soaked into the > shelf so fast you couldn't begin to get it smooth. This time I've made > it more like skimmed milk, and have given it about 6 coats and I can > still see right thru to the ceramic shelf. That's not enough, is it? I > do need to add more? - Cec > > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Dec 7 20:44:37 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 7 Dec 2001 20:29:02 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: one.net!gwood From: "Gregg Wood" To: "Bungi" Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Hand Beveling Date: Thu, 6 Dec 2001 18:59:57 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@one.net> Precedence: bulk I've decided I want to learn more about making custom beveling and I am looking for information. There doesn't seem to be much in the way of detailed instruction available. I understand the basics of grinding and polishing glass. Does any one have any good sources of information (books, web sites, etc.) with some in depth information on hand beveling? -G ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Dec 8 12:32:07 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sat, 8 Dec 2001 12:20:34 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: home.com!bobfuses From: "Bob Duchesneau" To: "bungi" Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Re: Hand Beveling Date: Fri, 7 Dec 2001 23:04:41 -0800 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@one.net>> Precedence: bulk >>Does any one have any good sources of information (books, web sites, etc.) with some in depth information on hand beveling?<< Vincent Fox's book "Glass Beveling" is THE bible for glass beveling. It had been out of print for a while although some suppliers (Hollander LA) still have it. I understand Glastar Corp. has reprinted it. Bob in 92026 ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Dec 8 13:24:08 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sat, 8 Dec 2001 13:10:43 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: exchange.DAYTONOH.NCR.com!DF125031 From: "Becker, Donna" To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain Subject: RE: stained glass cookies Date: Fri, 7 Dec 2001 14:16:53 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@exchange.DAYTONOH.NCR.com> Precedence: bulk I have a similar recipe, but you roll the logs in the walnuts instead of adding them to the chocolate mixture and you leave out the coconut. Works well for those who'd rather not use coconut. I believe my mother called them cathedral cookies. Donna Becker Senior Consultant II Office 630-469-5726 Cell 630-248-0184 donna.becker@chicagoil.ncr.com -----Original Message----- From: Joan [mailto:beadnik@yahoo.com] Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2001 2:04 PM To: Jerri; glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: stained glass cookies Hi Jerri..... Here's another one... this one is easy and delish! STAINED GLASS WINDOWS . About 4 dozen cookies . 1/2 cup (1 stick) butter, softened 1 package (12 ounces) semisweet chocolate chips 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 1 cup chopped walnuts 1 package (101/2 ounces) multicolored miniature marshmallows 1 cup sweetened flaked coconut, divided . In a large saucepan, melt the butter and chocolate chips over low heat, stirring constantly. Remove the saucepan from the heat and stir in the vanilla and walnuts. Cool the mixture for about 15 minutes, until cool but not to the point of hardening. Fold in the marshmallows and stir until well coated. . Spoon half of the mixture lengthwise down the center of an 18-inch piece of waxed paper. Shape into a 12" x 2" log and place at one edge of the waxed paper. Sprinkle 1/2 cup coconut over the remainder of the waxed paper. Roll the log over the coconut, evenly coating the outside of the entire log. Wrap the log tightly in the waxed paper, folding the ends snugly. Repeat with the other half of the marshmallow mixture and the remaining 1/2 cup coconut. . Chill until firm, at least 2 hours or overnight. Unwrap each log and cut into 1/2-inch slices. Enjoy!!! Joan --- Jerri wrote: > Ok, I had it somewhere, but can't find it, and I'm > sure I'm not the only one > who'll want it this Christmas. Our Arts Center is > doing a cookie exchange > at the next meeting, and I want to take some Stained > glass cookies. I think > they are basically sugar cookies and you punch in > the middle and put in > crushed hard candy to melt. > > Would someone post the recipe, please?????? > > Thanks, > Jerri > www.beadbimbo.com > > > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: > glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: > glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send your FREE holiday greetings online! http://greetings.yahoo.com ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Dec 8 13:55:08 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sat, 8 Dec 2001 13:34:42 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: aol.com!Beveler4 From: Beveler4@aol.com To: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Subject: Re: Hand Beveling Date: Sat, 08 Dec 2001 16:15:19 EST Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com> Precedence: bulk Denver Glass Machinery has reprinted copies of the book,other than that I'm not sure that there are any other sources for the book unless you find some that has an old copy that they will part with. I have a couple of signed copies that I will not let go of.But another good book if,again you can find it,isHow to work in Beveled Glass,by Anita and Seymour Isenberg,it was printed by Chilton in their Glass working series. Stan The Beveler's Glass Studio Cinti Ohio ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Dec 8 16:30:58 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sat, 8 Dec 2001 16:01:32 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles From: "Christie A. Wood" To: Bungi Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Hand Beveling Date: Sat, 8 Dec 2001 08:29:42 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com> Precedence: bulk Message text written by "Gregg Wood" >I've decided I want to learn more about making custom beveling and I am looking for information. There doesn't seem to be much in the way of detailed instruction available. I understand the basics of grinding and polishing glass. = Does any one have any good sources of information (books, web sites, etc.= ) with some in depth information on hand beveling?< I've got two hand beveling machines: one is an ancient (i.e. at least 40 years old) machine which has 6 different polishing wheels. The other is = a Bevel Max system, with one wheel and 2 additional polishing pads which fi= t on top of the grinding wheel. Making custom bevels on these small, "amateur" models is wet, cold, tedious, nerve-wracking work. And you can= only do straight line or outside curve bevels with these machines. I've had nothing from these bevelers but headaches, bodyaches (from maintainin= g a perfect hand-held angle on the bevel) and a soaked middrift (as well as= polishing rouge splashed all over my studio). IMO, unless you are going to invest in an expensive, "professional" beveling system, don't do it. Pay someone else with the proper equipment= to do it. I don't use mine any more. Christie A. Wood Art Glass Ensembles Denton, TX ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Dec 8 21:49:19 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sat, 8 Dec 2001 21:36:36 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: home.com!esavad From: "Mike Savad" To: "Bungi" Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: lemon oil Date: Sat, 8 Dec 2001 10:07:44 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@one.net>> Precedence: bulk i bought some old english lemon oil for black patina. i think that's the stuff that was recomeded (it was the only one there anyway). how should i apply this stuff? should i wipe on, then wipe off. should i wipe on, then let sit then wipe off? not sure what the best way is... though it does smell pretty good. ---Mike Savad ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Dec 9 10:28:21 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 9 Dec 2001 10:06:09 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: home.com!cecnralph From: Cecily & Ralph Wood To: Bungi Glass Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Subject: kilns, fusing, etc. Date: Sun, 09 Dec 2001 02:32:22 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com> Organization: Grendel Studio Precedence: bulk I have a Paragon GF8B (top firing) kiln - about the largest you can get to work on household current (120v), on its own circuit, and one kiln shelf. What is a reasonable temperature rise per hour? It's maxed at 1700º F. I ask because (some of you may remember my complaining about soldering irons not heating well) it seems like we have - in highly nontechnical terms - low electric pressure. So Im just wondering what a reasonable heating speed would be. Does it heat uniformly throughout its firing time, or heat faster at the beginning, and slow down toward the end? Or vice versa? I have a Paragon Touch n Fire II DTC 800 controller. In order to use it so I can actually see the temperature at any given time, and to make it heat as rapidly as possible, I have to do a 2 segment program? The first segment strives to heat to the target temp, and the 2nd segment soaks? If you want to do a soak segment, what do you input for the rate of temperature rise? It won't accept a 0 so I've been adding 10º In the ramping segment, if it doesn't meet the target goal, the soak segment continues heating at the fastest rate til it hits the goal? It's funny, I work with computers all the time, and so this warm glass business seems so very slap-dash. Yet I don't hesitate to get into the innards of the computer and muck around, while the very idea of drilling a hole in the metal jacket of the kiln freaks me - or pealing the metal jacket back, taking th bottom of the kiln off and turning it over and reattaching it, drilling holes if necessary. Whoaaaa! Yet I've added all kinds of drives internally and externally, pumped up the memory, built an in-house network, etc. and I was cautous and careful, but it didn't scare me like the kiln does. -- Cec ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Dec 9 12:13:44 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 9 Dec 2001 11:34:25 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: attbi.com!byronw26 From: "Byron Wells" To: Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Re: Hand Beveling Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2001 09:30:48 -0600 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@attbi.com> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com>> Precedence: bulk What Christie says is true... Don't waste your time or money on 'el cheapo' equipment like the bevel max, twin spin etc... You may think your getting a great deal but it's not worth the aggravation. I use a Glastar 12" disc machine and an 8" and 12" upright machines and they do all I'll ever need.. As far as books Denver Glass has/had reprinted Glass Beveling by Vincent Fox which is a good book... Byron... Wells Glassworks ----- Original Message ----- From: "Christie A. Wood" To: "Bungi" Sent: Saturday, December 08, 2001 7:29 AM Subject: Hand Beveling > Message text written by "Gregg Wood" > >I've decided I want to learn more about making custom beveling > and I am looking for information. There doesn't seem to be much > in the way of detailed instruction available. I understand the basics > of grinding and polishing glass. = > > > Does any one have any good sources of information (books, web sites, etc.= > ) > with some in depth information on hand beveling?< > > I've got two hand beveling machines: one is an ancient (i.e. at least 40 > years old) machine which has 6 different polishing wheels. The other is = > a > Bevel Max system, with one wheel and 2 additional polishing pads which fi= > t > on top of the grinding wheel. Making custom bevels on these small, > "amateur" models is wet, cold, tedious, nerve-wracking work. And you can= > > only do straight line or outside curve bevels with these machines. I've > had nothing from these bevelers but headaches, bodyaches (from maintainin= > g > a perfect hand-held angle on the bevel) and a soaked middrift (as well as= > > polishing rouge splashed all over my studio). > > IMO, unless you are going to invest in an expensive, "professional" > beveling system, don't do it. Pay someone else with the proper equipment= > > to do it. I don't use mine any more. > > Christie A. Wood > Art Glass Ensembles > Denton, TX > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Dec 9 13:00:50 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 9 Dec 2001 12:56:21 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: home.com!gunnx4 From: Suzanne Gunn To: Bob Duchesneau Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: Re: Hand Beveling Date: Sat, 08 Dec 2001 15:38:06 -0600 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>> Organization: glassdancer Precedence: bulk I have a copy I'd be willing to give up, if someone wants it and will pay for the shipping. It's an interesting book. I wont have time to deal with it until after Christmas though. Going out of town the 13th, and wont be home til the 23rd. Too much to do already. Suzanne Bob Duchesneau wrote: > > >>Does any one have any good sources of information (books, web sites, etc.) > with some in depth information on hand beveling?<< > > Vincent Fox's book "Glass Beveling" is THE bible for glass beveling. It had > been out of print for a while although some suppliers (Hollander LA) still > have it. I understand Glastar Corp. has reprinted it. > > Bob in 92026 > > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Dec 9 15:28:46 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 9 Dec 2001 15:01:55 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles From: "Christie A. Wood" To: Bungi Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: kilns, fusing, etc. Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2001 16:23:54 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com> Precedence: bulk Message text written by Cecily & Ralph Wood >I have a Paragon GF8B (top firing) kiln - about the largest you can get to work on household current (120v), on its own circuit, and one kiln shelf. What is a reasonable temperature rise per hour? It's maxed at 1700=BA F. I ask because (some of you may remember my complaining about soldering irons not heating well) it seems like we have - in highly nontechnical terms - low electric pressure. So Im just wondering what a reasonable heating speed would be. Does it heat uniformly throughout its firing time, or heat faster at the beginning, and slow down toward the end? Or vice versa?< I also own a Paragon GF8B (top firing) on household current. I ramp mine up slowly, then once it gets past 600 degrees, I turn it up to fast firing. Setting on "Low" for 30 minutes. Then setting on "2" for 30 minutes. Then setting on "3" or "Medium" for 30 minutes. By then it's past 600 degrees, and I turn mine up to no more than setting "4". Why? Cause anything higher will blow a circuit breaker in my old house/studio. Once you set it on "4", best watch it closely, as the temperature will rise dramaticall. Christie A. Wood Art Glass Ensembles Denton, TX ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Dec 9 17:37:49 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 9 Dec 2001 17:34:11 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard From: Steve Richard To: Cecily & Ralph Wood Subject: Re: kiln paper Date: Sat, 8 Dec 2001 08:17:23 +0000 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@verrier> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>> Precedence: bulk If you are using Bullseye's quick fire thin paper, no pre-firing is required. If you are REALLY careful in unloading (do it from the back so you don't brush it at all) you can use it again. Normally, one firing is all I can get out of it. Straight answer is - there is no need to pre-fire. It will smell a bit while firing, but don't worry about the burning paper smell (as long as it comes from the kiln) Steve In message <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>, Cecily & Ralph Wood writes >I've been using it for the first time. When you first fire it to get >rid of the binders, etc...what color should it be after firing? a grey >color? How long and how high does it need to be fired. Seems like it >takes a long time and a pretty high temperature. > >Also, it really seems to shrink. I cut it to fit the kiln shelf and >after firing (the real firing with the glass) it had shrunk a good inch >in on all sides. Am I doing something wrong? > >Thanks - Cec > >---- >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com >To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass -- Steve Richard Verrier Art Glass Ltd s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Dec 9 19:03:03 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 9 Dec 2001 18:39:38 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: one.net!gwood From: "Gregg Wood" To: "Bungi" Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Re: Hand Beveling Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2001 18:48:44 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@one.net> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>> Precedence: bulk Thanks to everyone for the information on beveling. I really appreciate it. Suzanne, I'd be willing to take off your hands. After Christmas is fine. > I have a copy I'd be willing to give up, if someone wants it and will > pay for the shipping. It's an interesting book. > I have to opportunity for 'free' 'el cheapo' equipment, but even at that I'm pretty convinced it is not the path I want to take. I have looked @ Glastar & Denver and once I get some idea of what it is I'm trying to do I'll decide whether I can afford to do it. Don't waste your time or money on 'el cheapo' equipment like the bevel max, twin spin etc... You may think your getting a great deal but it's not worth the aggravation. ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Dec 9 19:17:54 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 9 Dec 2001 19:02:08 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard From: Steve Richard To: Cecily & Ralph Wood Subject: Re: kilns, fusing, etc. Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2001 23:14:28 +0000 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@verrier> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>> Precedence: bulk Cec, I have the same (but older model) kiln and controller. My comments are interspersed with your text. In message <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>, Cecily & Ralph Wood writes >I have a Paragon GF8B (top firing) kiln - about the largest you can get >to work on household current (120v), on its own circuit, and one kiln >shelf. What is a reasonable temperature rise per hour? The rate per hour is determined by the kiln furniture, moulds, and glass to be heated. The kiln can go faster than any of these at lower temps. I take my kiln up in the first ramp at 350 C (about 700F) per hour for two layers of glass not more than 8" in dia. Bigger and thicker pieces more slowly. Some take the glass up at 500C per hour. The shelf is ceramic and so has some limits as to how fast it can go without cracking. 350C per hour has not given any difficulty over 5 years. If you have a ceramic mould, the initial heating has to be slow about 50C - 75C per hour to 200C. You can then increase the heating rate to 350C per hour After 500C you can increase the heating rate to 500C or more per hour (you can even have it go as fast as possible, since the kiln does not heat up really quickly at higher temps.) >It's maxed at >1700 F. I ask because (some of you may remember my complaining about >soldering irons not heating well) it seems like we have - in highly >nontechnical terms - low electric pressure. So Im just wondering what a >reasonable heating speed would be. I suggest you go to the Spectrum web site. They have a section on fusing and slumping spectrum glass. The tables they give show a reasonable rate for various thicknesses and dimensions. In general, slower for bigger and thicker. > >Does it heat uniformly throughout its firing time, or heat faster at the >beginning, and slow down toward the end? Or vice versa? The kiln rises in temperature more quickly at the lower temperatures at full power, than at the upper range. This is because the kiln absorbs the heat input on the way up and releases it on the way down. So the kiln heats up really fast at the start, slows as the temperature rises. When the power is turned off at the target temperature, the fall in temp. is very rapid. As the temperature in the kiln falls, the heat loss reduces, and the temperature fall slows. You should get to know how your kiln reacts to heat input and heat loss. Put your shelf in the kiln, but nothing else, except posts to support the shelf at the desired height. Put the heating rate at say 500C or 1000F per hour with a target temperature of 800C, about 1600F. Then record the temperature every 15 minutes. Set the controller so it turns off when the target temperature is reached. Record the temperature fall every 15 minutes. This record will tell you about the fastest heating rate, and the natural cooling rate at various temperatures. This can be useful in programing, as you will know when the natural cooling rate is slower than the recommended rate, so you can just have the controller shut off when the cooling rate is faster than the kiln can achieve. Also you should know where the cool and hot spots of your kiln are. To find this out, get low firing Orton cones (from ceramic suppliers) and place them around the kiln shelf at the firing height and where you can see them through the peep hole and the side plug openings. Fire the kiln quickly to 500C and then reduce the rate to 200C per hour or less, as the readings will not be accurate otherwise. As you watch, you will see some of the cones bending over before others. The area where the cones bend first is the hot spot(s) the area where the cone bends last is the cold spot. This is also a good test for calibration of the temperature readings. You may find that the pyrometer (being higher than the shelf reads quite a bit higher than the cones show the shelf temperature to be. You can then incorporate this into your planing of your firing temperatures. > >I have a Paragon Touch n Fire II DTC 800 controller. In order to use it >so I can actually see the temperature at any given time, and to make it >heat as rapidly as possible, I have to do a 2 segment program? The >first segment strives to heat to the target temp, and the 2nd segment >soaks? If you want to do a soak segment, what do you input for the rate >of temperature rise? It won't accept a 0 so I've been adding 10 > No. If you want to heat in a single ramp, and hold at that target temperature, you can do it in one segment. Set the ramp rate at say 1000F per hour, the target temp. at 1600 and the hold at 10 mins. This will take the temperature up to 1600 in about two hours hold it there for 10 mins. or however long you decide and then switch off. Any glass you have in there will then cool and break, because it has not annealed. >In the ramping segment, if it doesn't meet the target goal, the soak >segment continues heating at the fastest rate til it hits the goal? > The soak will not start until the target temperature has been reached. With different conditions ( varying voltage, plugs in or out, etc.) the time taken to reach the target temp will differ. The soak will be for the required time at the target temperature. >It's funny, I work with computers all the time, and so this warm glass >business seems so very slap-dash. Yet I don't hesitate to get into the >innards of the computer and muck around, while the very idea of drilling >a hole in the metal jacket of the kiln freaks me - or pealing the metal >jacket back, taking th bottom of the kiln off and turning it over and >reattaching it, drilling holes if necessary. Whoaaaa! Yet I've added >all kinds of drives internally and externally, pumped up the memory, >built an in-house network, etc. and I was cautous and careful, but it >didn't scare me like the kiln does. -- Cec > Well, the controllers for kilns are limited purpose devices intended for dunces like me. They don't have the variety of functions that most microprocessors do. If you think the controller on your kiln is odd, try out one intended for ceramics! The general principle in firing glass is to start off slowly heating the kiln (350C or less) to the annealing or softening point of the glass, then speed up (500C or more) to the target temperature. Soak the glass at the target temperature for as long as required to achieve the result. Then cool the glass as fast as possible to about 600C. The risk of devitrification is greatest between about 750C and 600C. You then stop the cooling at or just above the annealing point and soak again at that point (the length of time is determined by the size and thickness of the glass). You then cool the glass gradually to below the strain point (about 50C below the annealing point), increase the cooling rate by twice for the next 50C and then at least double that (or 4 times the rate of the annealing point to strain point cooling) to the temperature where the natural cooling rate of the kiln is slower than the programed cooling rate. This is about 6 ramps. So a typical programme for two layers of glass about 12" would be something like this (I don't have my records here so this is only indicative) Enter Enter Prgm (4) =(n) Ramps 6 R1 350C/hr to 540C Hold= 0 R2 500C/hr to 830C Hold = 10mins (This is for a rounded fuse of German cathedral glass) R3 2000C/hr to 612 Hold= 15mins (annealing point is 607C) R4 40C/hr to 560 hold=0 R5 80C/hr to 510 hold=0 R6 360C/hr to 250 hold =0 Alarm 3333C (this means the alarm never goes off) And this is the end of the programme. Do look at the Spectrum an Bullseye web sites, because they give a lot of good information about fusing their glasses that is applicable to all glasses. The best way to get to know your kiln is to do test firings and watch throughout the cycle. Also keep records. Sorry for the lengthy explanation. (My girls used to say to me after asking a question "Short answer, Pleeease!" Steve -- Steve Richard Verrier Art Glass Ltd s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Dec 9 19:33:26 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 9 Dec 2001 19:02:29 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard From: Steve Richard To: Sarah Subject: Re: Lead Question Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2001 23:18:24 +0000 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@verrier> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@woh.rr.com>> Precedence: bulk If I understand you Sarah, this is a flat strip of lead. Came is H shaped, and so in my first reading I could not see what you were saying. If I am understanding you correctly, you create the strip of lead by cutting the heart out of the appropriately sized came and flatten the remainder of the heart by pressing along it with a hard metal tool, such as the side of your lead knife. You can then manipulate the strip around the top of the shade as you need. Steve In message <1970Jan1.000.0@woh.rr.com>, Sarah writes >Hi to all, I have a question about lead came. I am repairing a 60 year old >lamp shade for a customer. At the base of the crown, there is a wide flat >band of lead came, which was wrapped around to hide the meeting of the crown >and top set of panels. It's a little wider than 1/2 inch. Does anyone know >how they made this flat band? It looks hand-made. I may have to replace it >when I get to that stage of the repair. >I hope everyone is enjoying the holidays! >Sarah > > >---- >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com >To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass -- Steve Richard Verrier Art Glass Ltd s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Dec 9 20:32:23 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 9 Dec 2001 20:26:22 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: Corpit.com!dterrill From: Dan Terrill To: Bungi Glass Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: RE: kilns, fusing, etc. Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2001 13:04:56 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@Corpit.com> Precedence: bulk On a somewhat related note, does anyone know of a controller that will = hook up to a computer, so you can program your own heating sequence? > -----Original Message----- > From: Cecily & Ralph Wood [mailto:cecnralph@home.com] > Sent: Sunday, December 09, 2001 2:32 AM > To: Bungi Glass > Subject: kilns, fusing, etc. >=20 >=20 > I have a Paragon GF8B (top firing) kiln - about the largest=20 > you can get > to work on household current (120v), on its own circuit, and one kiln > shelf. What is a reasonable temperature rise per hour? It's maxed = at > 1700=BA F. I ask because (some of you may remember my complaining = about > soldering irons not heating well) it seems like we have - in highly > nontechnical terms - low electric pressure. So Im just=20 > wondering what a > reasonable heating speed would be. >=20 > Does it heat uniformly throughout its firing time, or heat=20 > faster at the > beginning, and slow down toward the end? Or vice versa? >=20 > I have a Paragon Touch n Fire II DTC 800 controller. In=20 > order to use it > so I can actually see the temperature at any given time, and=20 > to make it > heat as rapidly as possible, I have to do a 2 segment program? The > first segment strives to heat to the target temp, and the 2nd segment > soaks? If you want to do a soak segment, what do you input=20 > for the rate > of temperature rise? It won't accept a 0 so I've been adding 10=BA >=20 > In the ramping segment, if it doesn't meet the target goal, the soak > segment continues heating at the fastest rate til it hits the goal? >=20 > It's funny, I work with computers all the time, and so this warm = glass > business seems so very slap-dash. Yet I don't hesitate to=20 > get into the > innards of the computer and muck around, while the very idea=20 > of drilling > a hole in the metal jacket of the kiln freaks me - or pealing=20 > the metal > jacket back, taking th bottom of the kiln off and turning it over and > reattaching it, drilling holes if necessary. Whoaaaa! Yet I've = added > all kinds of drives internally and externally, pumped up the memory, > built an in-house network, etc. and I was cautous and careful, but it > didn't scare me like the kiln does. -- Cec >=20 > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass >=20 ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Dec 9 21:47:44 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 9 Dec 2001 21:31:48 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: juno.com!pkinnetz From: Peggy L Kinnetz To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain Subject: disc grinders (was hand beveling) Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2001 23:29:39 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@juno.com> Precedence: bulk For those of you who have a disc grinder, is it worth the money? I'm thinking that one (any suggestions as to which one?) would be real nice for straight edges.The edges that you get from a regular grinder never are quite straight, well at least mine aren't. It would seem that really staight edges would mke for a very professonal look. Peggy K. ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Dec 9 22:06:31 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 9 Dec 2001 21:50:24 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: yahoo.com!texpenguin From: Sherry Greer To: GlassList Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: lemon oil thanks! Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2001 17:47:11 -0800 (PST) Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com> Precedence: bulk Thanks to everyone who suggested using lemon oil on black patina! I used it for the first time on suncatchers that I was going to sell at a bazaar. I had rinsed the pieces the night before and laid them out to dry. When I came back to them the next morning they were splotchy and greyish. I wiped on lemon oil then buffed it off, and every suncatcher shined up to a beautiful deep black color and smelled great too! I made over $300 at a bazaar that maybe only had 25 customers. Not much by professional standards, but I think it's pretty good for my first public sale ever! I also used the list's suggestion to notch my u-came to turn the corners instead of cutting each miter fully. Definately sped up my soldering time. Thanks again everyone! Sherry ===== Sherry Greer texpenguin@yahoo.com __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send your FREE holiday greetings online! http://greetings.yahoo.com ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Dec 9 23:15:03 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 9 Dec 2001 22:13:43 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: home.com!cecnralph From: Cecily & Ralph Wood To: Bungi Glass Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Subject: Re: kiln paper Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 01:11:03 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com> References: <> Organization: Grendel Studio Precedence: bulk I have no idea if it's Bullseye or not and I think the shop is closed on Mondays so I can't call them. But I have some extra glass cut for the project I'm doing, and will gamble tomorrow night because it sure would make life easier and production faster. Thanks! - Cec Steve Richard wrote: > If you are using Bullseye's quick fire thin paper, no pre-firing is > required. If you are REALLY careful in unloading (do it from the back > so you don't brush it at all) you can use it again. Normally, one > firing is all I can get out of it. > Straight answer is - there is no need to pre-fire. It will > smell a bit while firing, but don't worry about the burning paper smell > (as long as it comes from the kiln) > > Steve > > In message <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>, Cecily & Ralph Wood > writes > >I've been using it for the first time. When you first fire it to get > >rid of the binders, etc...what color should it be after firing? a grey > >color? How long and how high does it need to be fired. Seems like it > >takes a long time and a pretty high temperature. > > > >Also, it really seems to shrink. I cut it to fit the kiln shelf and > >after firing (the real firing with the glass) it had shrunk a good inch > >in on all sides. Am I doing something wrong? > > > >Thanks - Cec > > > >---- > >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > >To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > > -- > Steve Richard > Verrier Art Glass Ltd > s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Dec 10 00:18:49 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 10 Dec 2001 00:04:43 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: hotmail.com!theglassparrott From: "Cheryl Parrott" To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed Subject: Re: Re preparing for foiling Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 00:00:34 -0800 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@hotmail.com> Precedence: bulk Hi Nikki, I purchased the brass patina from Northwest Artglass in Redmond Washington. It is a wholesaler. I also think that Big M in Tacoma Washington has it, another local wholesaler If you need numbers or email addresses let me know. Cheryl The Glass Parrott _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Dec 10 02:30:44 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 10 Dec 2001 02:20:19 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: home.com!cecnralph From: Cecily & Ralph Wood To: Bungi Glass Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Subject: Re: disc grinders Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 01:06:46 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@juno.com>> Organization: Grendel Studio Precedence: bulk Don't get an Inland. The one I got had it's hole off-center slightly, and they never fixed it properly even under warranty. Since the disks are heavy, the eccentricity really makes the machine wobble, and chips the glass. A real mess. I now have a Diamond Max (I think - it's downstairs and I'm not!) and it has a lovely smooth disk. They aren't necessary, but do come in handy at times. - Cec Peggy L Kinnetz wrote: > For those of you who have a disc grinder, is it worth the money? I'm > thinking that one (any suggestions as to which one?) would be real nice > for straight edges.The edges that you get from a regular grinder never > are quite straight, well at least mine aren't. It would seem that really > staight edges would mke for a very professonal look. Peggy K. > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Dec 10 03:00:36 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 10 Dec 2001 02:35:40 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: writingmachine.com!ClaireF From: Claire Fuller To: "'glass@bungi.com'" Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: repairs with black patina Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 09:25:32 -0000 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@writingmachine.com> Precedence: bulk I've been asked to repair part of a lampshade which has had black patina put on it. Does anyone know if I can solder over the top of the patina or do I need to remove it somehow before I start work? Claire Claire Fuller Writing Machine Tel: 01962841250 Fax: 01962 870558 www.writingmachine.com _____________________________________________________________________ This message has been checked for all known viruses by Star Internet delivered through the MessageLabs Virus Scanning Service. For further information visit http://www.star.net.uk/stats.asp or alternatively call Star Internet for details on the Virus Scanning Service. ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Dec 10 06:50:08 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 10 Dec 2001 06:35:26 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles From: "Christie A. Wood" To: Bungi Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: repairs with black patina Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 08:57:35 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com> Precedence: bulk Message text written by Claire Fuller >I've been asked to repair part of a lampshade which has had black patina= put on it. Does anyone know if I can solder over the top of the patina or do = I need to remove it somehow before I start work?< Quick answer: Yes, you can solder directly into the black patina'ed solder line. You do not HAVE to remove the patina first by scrubbing it with steel wool. However, it takes much more flux & heat to burn through the old patina than if you were just soldering fresh. Scubbing the patina off first produces a better repair, IMHO, but I've done it both ways. Christie A. Wood Art Glass Ensembles Denton, TX ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Dec 10 07:38:44 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 10 Dec 2001 07:28:22 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: home.com!esavad From: "Mike Savad" To: "Bungi Glass" Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: RE: disc grinders Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 10:24:25 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>> Precedence: bulk that's odd, i use the inland without any problems. though it does kick the water up. i have the bevel max too (that one is a waste of money. though it grinds well, and i think it's a better design. there is no resavoir (sp), everything drains onto the table if you don't know about it. not to mention the switch is on the same side as the water sprays on... then again the inland has that same problem, i got shocked a few times because of that. i like the twinspin from inland, because it can be a normal grinder if you choose it to be. and you can use the edge of the big wheel for grinding as well. ---Mike Savad -----Original Message----- From: Cecily & Ralph Wood [mailto:cecnralph@home.com] Sent: Monday, December 10, 2001 1:07 AM To: Bungi Glass Subject: Re: disc grinders Don't get an Inland. The one I got had it's hole off-center slightly, and they never fixed it properly even under warranty. Since the disks are heavy, the eccentricity really makes the machine wobble, and chips the glass. A real mess. I now have a Diamond Max (I think - it's downstairs and I'm not!) and it has a lovely smooth disk. They aren't necessary, but do come in handy at times. - Cec Peggy L Kinnetz wrote: > For those of you who have a disc grinder, is it worth the money? I'm > thinking that one (any suggestions as to which one?) would be real nice > for straight edges.The edges that you get from a regular grinder never > are quite straight, well at least mine aren't. It would seem that really > staight edges would mke for a very professonal look. Peggy K. > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Dec 10 09:02:40 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 10 Dec 2001 08:47:37 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: home.com!esavad From: "Mike Savad" To: "Claire Fuller" , Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: RE: repairs with black patina Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 10:25:49 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@writingmachine.com>> Precedence: bulk you'll need to rub it off with steel wool. old patina forms a shell, and though you can melt your way through, it makes a mess, and smells bad. though that never stopped me before. i'll ususally flux over the area, then melt off the old stuff. ---Mike Savad -----Original Message----- From: Claire Fuller [mailto:ClaireF@writingmachine.com] Sent: Monday, December 10, 2001 4:26 AM To: 'glass@bungi.com' Subject: repairs with black patina I've been asked to repair part of a lampshade which has had black patina put on it. Does anyone know if I can solder over the top of the patina or do I need to remove it somehow before I start work? Claire Claire Fuller Writing Machine Tel: 01962841250 Fax: 01962 870558 www.writingmachine.com _____________________________________________________________________ This message has been checked for all known viruses by Star Internet delivered through the MessageLabs Virus Scanning Service. For further information visit http://www.star.net.uk/stats.asp or alternatively call Star Internet for details on the Virus Scanning Service. ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Dec 10 12:05:15 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 10 Dec 2001 11:38:00 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: aol.com!CUngv From: CUngv@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Subject: retail source for floor lamp bases? Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 14:24:52 EST Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com> Precedence: bulk I would like to make a floor lamp, preferably a torchiere, but I am having a difficult time finding a nice base. I suspect that most of the lamp base manufacturers prefer to sell only wholesale, but if I could look at a catalogue and find one I like, I could try to get my local retailer to get it for me. Any suggestions? Carolyn Gilinsky ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Dec 10 17:24:46 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 10 Dec 2001 16:31:30 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: home.com!cecnralph From: Cecily & Ralph Wood To: Bungi Glass Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Subject: Re: disc grinders Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 19:32:51 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>> Organization: Grendel Studio Precedence: bulk Twin spin is what I had. Sent it back three times and they still didn't fix it, and since my friend had one that was working, it was easy to see mine was defective. The first time the disc was stuck on the shaft as well. My firend and I switched disks, and we almost couldn't get it off hers and hers wobbled and mine was ok, so we know it was the disk. Packing the darned thing up and mailing it was a hassle and expensive as well. I avoid Inland because their warranties are worthless. On the other hand, you get really good service from Diamond Tech and from Gemini. = Cec Mike Savad wrote: > that's odd, i use the inland without any problems. though it does kick the > water up. i have the bevel max too (that one is a waste of money. though it > grinds well, and i think it's a better design. there is no resavoir (sp), > everything drains onto the table if you don't know about it. not to mention > the switch is on the same side as the water sprays on... then again the > inland has that same problem, i got shocked a few times because of that. > > i like the twinspin from inland, because it can be a normal grinder if you > choose it to be. and you can use the edge of the big wheel for grinding as > well. > > ---Mike Savad > > -----Original Message----- > From: Cecily & Ralph Wood [mailto:cecnralph@home.com] > Sent: Monday, December 10, 2001 1:07 AM > To: Bungi Glass > Subject: Re: disc grinders > > Don't get an Inland. The one I got had it's hole off-center slightly, and > they never fixed it properly even under warranty. Since the disks are > heavy, the eccentricity really makes the machine wobble, and chips the > glass. A real mess. I now have a Diamond Max (I think - it's downstairs > and I'm not!) and it has a lovely smooth disk. They aren't necessary, but > do come in handy at times. - Cec > > Peggy L Kinnetz wrote: > > > For those of you who have a disc grinder, is it worth the money? I'm > > thinking that one (any suggestions as to which one?) would be real nice > > for straight edges.The edges that you get from a regular grinder never > > are quite straight, well at least mine aren't. It would seem that really > > staight edges would mke for a very professonal look. Peggy K. > > ---- > > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Dec 10 18:36:02 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 10 Dec 2001 18:04:12 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard From: Steve Richard To: Cecily & Ralph Wood Subject: Re: haik brush & kiln wash Date: Sat, 8 Dec 2001 08:27:02 +0000 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@verrier> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>> Precedence: bulk In addition to batt (kiln) wash you can sprinkle whiting on the shelf. Bob's tip was to use a sock for fine texture (put whiting in to sock and shake over shelf). slightly more texture can be given by using a flour sieve. You should still coat the shelf with batt wash, though. Steve In message <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>, Cecily & Ralph Wood writes >My brush keeps depositing hairs on the firing shelf. Almost any normal >wide paint brush would do better? > >What consistancy should the kiln wash be? When I first tried using it, >I made it about potters slip consistancy and that just soaked into the >shelf so fast you couldn't begin to get it smooth. This time I've made >it more like skimmed milk, and have given it about 6 coats and I can >still see right thru to the ceramic shelf. That's not enough, is it? I >do need to add more? - Cec > >---- >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com >To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass -- Steve Richard Verrier Art Glass Ltd s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Dec 10 19:21:30 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 10 Dec 2001 19:04:27 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: mail2.nai.net!shad From: Family Account To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: Chihuly chandelier Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 22:04:31 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@mail2.nai.net> Precedence: bulk Friday night John and I went to see a new, BIG, Chihuly chandelier-like structure ---okay, it was in the Mohegan Sun casino and there was a free concert by Three Dog Night, but seeing it was ONE of the reasons we went. You know, the pictures of those things just don't really impress on you just how truly big they are!. This one is blue, shite and clear, kind of vaguely trumpet shaped, about two stories high. Right across from the big indoor waterfall. Anyway, worth a look if you are in SW Connecticut. Here there's a new one Hartford in the new Bushnell building, but I haven't seen that one yet. Dorothy ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Dec 10 19:35:28 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 10 Dec 2001 19:26:25 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: hotmail.com!glassharpgallery From: "Susan Hood" To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed Subject: Gatewayed mail message Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 23:21:03 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@hotmail.com> Precedence: bulk Anyone have a good source for patterns for stained glass frames. I have a student who does print making and wants to make her own frames. What book would you suggest I look for to suggest to her. Thanks , Susan _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Dec 11 06:31:12 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 11 Dec 2001 06:03:56 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles From: "Christie A. Wood" To: Bungi Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: retail source for floor lamp bases? Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 09:02:04 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com> Precedence: bulk Message text written by INTERNET:CUngv@aol.com >I would like to make a floor lamp, preferably a torchiere, but I am havi= ng a = difficult time finding a nice base. I suspect that most of the lamp base= = manufacturers prefer to sell only wholesale, but if I could look at a = catalogue and find one I like, I could try to get my local retailer to ge= t it = for me. Any suggestions?< Northwest Art Glass has a very nice selection of floor lamp bases for sal= e. I am not sure if they are wholesale only or retail too. But check them out. 1-800-888-9444, website: www.nwartglass.com Christie A. Wood Art Glass Ensembles Denton, TX ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Dec 11 07:30:49 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 11 Dec 2001 07:20:04 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: ns.sympatico.ca!heinze.g From: Gail Heinzemilne To: Glass List Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="------------5E551076BB0E47CA1FFF33AC" Subject: Vinyl Window Frame installations Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 11:14:11 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@ns.sympatico.ca> Organization: Glass with Class Precedence: bulk This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------5E551076BB0E47CA1FFF33AC Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit How is everyone installing full size panels into windows with vinyl frames? It seems up here where its cold and damp everyone is building homes with vinyl window frames now. The last one I did we just screwed the moulding into the vinyl , but is there a better way? TIA Gail in Nova Scotia --------------5E551076BB0E47CA1FFF33AC Content-Type: text/x-vcard; charset=us-ascii; name="vcard.vcf" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Description: Card for Gail Heinze-Milne Content-Disposition: attachment; filename="vcard.vcf" begin: vcard fn: Gail Heinze-Milne n: Heinze-Milne;Gail org: Glass with Class email;internet: heinze.g@ns.sympatico.ca note: http://www.gathering-of-artists.ca/glass/gailHM/profile.html x-mozilla-cpt: ;0 x-mozilla-html: FALSE version: 2.1 end: vcard --------------5E551076BB0E47CA1FFF33AC-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Dec 11 09:30:51 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 11 Dec 2001 09:25:58 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: home.com!cecnralph From: Cecily & Ralph Wood To: Bungi Glass Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Subject: Re: retail source for floor lamp bases? Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 12:31:10 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com>> Organization: Grendel Studio Precedence: bulk Does any one have a source for the brass/bronze looking bases for the 3-d animal lamps? You know, turtles, roosters, etc? Somebody obviously makes them cause you see them in the stores. - Cec "Christie A. Wood" wrote: > Message text written by INTERNET:CUngv@aol.com > >I would like to make a floor lamp, preferably a torchiere, but I am havi= > ng > a = > > difficult time finding a nice base. I suspect that most of the lamp base= > = > > manufacturers prefer to sell only wholesale, but if I could look at a = > > catalogue and find one I like, I could try to get my local retailer to ge= > t > it = > > for me. > > Any suggestions?< > > Northwest Art Glass has a very nice selection of floor lamp bases for sal= > e. > I am not sure if they are wholesale only or retail too. But check them > out. 1-800-888-9444, website: www.nwartglass.com > > Christie A. Wood > Art Glass Ensembles > Denton, TX > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Dec 11 13:00:46 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 11 Dec 2001 12:40:22 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles From: "Christie A. Wood" To: Bungi Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Re: retail source for floor lamp bases? Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 15:36:31 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com> Precedence: bulk Message text written by Cecily & Ralph Wood >Does any one have a source for the brass/bronze looking bases for the 3-= d animal lamps? You know, turtles, roosters, etc? Somebody obviously make= s them cause you see them in the stores. - Cec< I'm coming up blank when checking through my wholesale catalogs from Rainbow Art Glass (NJ), Glass Emporium (PA), Hollander (TX), Northwest Ar= t Glass (WA), Houston Art Glass (TX). So....they are probably imported fro= m China. Christie A. Wood Art Glass Ensembles Denton, TX ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Dec 11 13:30:49 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 11 Dec 2001 13:00:19 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: home.com!cecnralph From: Cecily & Ralph Wood To: Bungi Glass Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Subject: Re: Kiln paper Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 12:32:25 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com> Organization: Grendel Studio Precedence: bulk It worked well without pre-firing. That makes lif ever so much simpler. Thanks! - Cec ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Dec 11 14:00:43 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 11 Dec 2001 13:45:23 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: stainedglass.co.uk!studio From: "studio@stainedglass.co.uk" To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Subject: Source for turtle, rooster etc lamp bases? Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 21:36:35 +0000 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@stainedglass.co.uk> Precedence: bulk Christie wrote: > So....they are probably imported from >China. > Yes they are - it would probably be cheaper to buy the complete lamp with the glass and then dismantle and use the base for your own design than buying the bases separate. Or if you can find a shop selling them which has some broken lamps offer to take them off their hands! Similar lamps coming into England are sold wholesale at less than 20 dollars!! Regards EliZabeth in Bournemouth Bournemouth Stained Glass http://www.stainedglass.co.uk ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Dec 11 15:16:13 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 11 Dec 2001 15:01:15 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles From: "Christie A. Wood" To: Bungi Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Re: retail source for floor lamp bases? Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 15:36:29 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com> Precedence: bulk Message text written by INTERNET:CUngv@aol.com >Thank you for responding to my inquiry. I visited the site at = www.nwartglass.com. Unfortunately they don't even provide a catalogue unless = you can meet their wholesale purchasing requirements. Thanks anyway.< Oh well....they DO have the best selection. Right now I've got a floor lamp base from them...mission style, very nice. I've also gotten a Victorian style floor lamp base (with marble accents) from them. Maybe y= ou can find a retail stained glass store in your area which would be willing= to order their stuff for you. Christie A. Wood Art Glass Ensembles Denton, TX ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Dec 11 16:02:51 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 11 Dec 2001 15:32:32 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: home.com!cecnralph From: Cecily & Ralph Wood To: Bungi Glass Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Subject: DTC-800 controller Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 13:10:46 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com> Organization: Grendel Studio Precedence: bulk OK - now I'm really confused. I entered a 2 segment program. Seg 1 at a rate of 400 for temp 800 in 2 hours (vented 1st half hour) Seg 2 at a rate of 800 for temp 1600 in 3 hours At least, that's what I thought I'd told it. What I expected was that after 1 hour the temp would be around 400, and after 2 hours it would be 800. If it hit 800 before the 2 hours were over, it would hold at that temp. Then it would heat 800 degrees on up to 1600 in however long it takes (which is actually probably close to 2 and a half hours), and if it reached that, it would soak till the 3 hrs was over. What seemed to happen was that it heated (while I vented) and it was about 300 at the end of the half hour (doesn't seem to be able to heat any higher when venter). I checked it after an hour and it was around 500 and still going up. However after another hour and a half I rechecked, and it had reached and was holding 800, - and showing there was an hour and a half to go!!!! What I expected was that it would hold until the end of a total 2 hours and then kick into the 2nd segment. Not so - It seemed to not count the time it took to ramp up to the 800, and then intended to soak at 800 for two hours. ??? So I told it to skip and it went into the 2nd segment. So I guess I've totally misunderstood what the thing is doing? I thought I was telling it to ramp at a rate of A per hour for X hours, and if it hit the upper bound B, to hold for the remaining time. Instead it seems to be ramping at a rate of A per hour and then soaking for X hours whenever it hits the upper bound B. Is this what really happens? This makes a vast difference in the handling of the glass!!! -- Perplexed Cec ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Dec 11 18:33:12 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 11 Dec 2001 18:20:51 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: home.com!cecnralph From: Cecily & Ralph Wood To: Bungi Glass Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Subject: Re: retail source for [3-D animals] floor lamp bases? Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 18:56:01 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com>> Organization: Grendel Studio Precedence: bulk I was afraid of that. I hadn't seen anything when hunting on the web. But I thought if they were available someone who is in the business might have the printed catalogs I lack. Very few of the lamp base suppliers are using the web at all - almost totally oblivious - which to my mind says that their staying power may be eroding. The Chinese are becoming more web conscious and just might begin the squeeze. How do I know? My sister and husband traveled for a month in China this summer, and emailed us from various hotels. Immediately afterwards we began getting spam from China. - Cec "Christie A. Wood" wrote: > Message text written by Cecily & Ralph Wood > >Does any one have a source for the brass/bronze looking bases for the 3-= > d > animal lamps? You know, turtles, roosters, etc? Somebody obviously make= > s > them cause you see them in the stores. - Cec< > > I'm coming up blank when checking through my wholesale catalogs from > Rainbow Art Glass (NJ), Glass Emporium (PA), Hollander (TX), Northwest Ar= > t > Glass (WA), Houston Art Glass (TX). So....they are probably imported fro= > m > China. > > Christie A. Wood > Art Glass Ensembles > Denton, TX > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Dec 11 22:00:49 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 11 Dec 2001 21:57:05 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: home.com!cecnralph From: Cecily & Ralph Wood To: Bungi Glass Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Subject: Re: kiln paper Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2001 00:04:45 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com> References: <<75F036A5970CD311A993009027283DC40138D149@exphx.az.stratus.com>> Organization: Grendel Studio Precedence: bulk Yes - I suppose you are right. But I already belong to too many lists. I'm reluctant to get into another. - Cec "Spitzer, Charlie" wrote: > you should ask kiln questions on the bb at http://warmglass.com. there's a > large body of info there. > > regards, > charlie > phx, az > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Cecily & Ralph Wood [mailto:cecnralph@home.com] > > Sent: Tuesday, December 04, 2001 8:06 PM > > To: Bungi Glass > > Subject: kiln paper > > > > > > I've been using it for the first time. When you first fire it to get > > rid of the binders, etc...what color should it be after > > firing? a grey > > color? How long and how high does it need to be fired. Seems like it > > takes a long time and a pretty high temperature. > > > > Also, it really seems to shrink. I cut it to fit the kiln shelf and > > after firing (the real firing with the glass) it had shrunk a > > good inch > > in on all sides. Am I doing something wrong? > > > > Thanks - Cec > > > > ---- > > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Dec 11 22:30:48 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 11 Dec 2001 22:27:02 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: aol.com!Melysma From: Melysma@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_163.57c208b.29485291_boundary" Subject: new to stained glass... Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2001 01:26:25 EST Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com> Precedence: bulk --part1_163.57c208b.29485291_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit hi, i've recently developed a strong interest in stained glass and i would like to pursue it... but I'm not really sure what to start, nor do I really know what I'm getting myself into. How much does it cost to get started; what do I need? Also, I know that some (most??) stained glass artists use pre-colored glass.. but how would I go about painting my own? Any "tid-bits" of information that would help me out would be greatly appreciated! thanks, mel --part1_163.57c208b.29485291_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit hi, i've recently developed a strong interest in stained glass and i would like to pursue it... but I'm not really sure what to start, nor do I really know what I'm getting myself into. How much does it cost to get started; what do I need? Also, I know that some (most??) stained glass artists use pre-colored glass.. but how would I go about painting my own? Any "tid-bits" of information that would help me out would be greatly appreciated!
thanks,
mel --part1_163.57c208b.29485291_boundary-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Dec 12 07:09:49 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 12 Dec 2001 07:07:28 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: Corpit.com!dterrill From: Dan Terrill To: "'Melysma@aol.com'" , glass@bungi.com Content-Type: multipart/alternative; Subject: RE: new to stained glass... Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2001 09:21:06 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@Corpit.com> Precedence: bulk This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. ------_=_NextPart_001_01C18318.3CEC2FD0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Welcome to a wonderful hobby, Melysma! I started fairly recently myself, and am having a hell of a lot of fun with it. I started out thinking I could teach myself, but was proven wrong after going through a lot of frustration and broken glass. So, the best advice: find a class. You should be able to find a beginner's class for around $100 ~ $150. The teacher may provide some of the tools, but you'll probably have to buy some. Figure about $200 to $300 for a good setup, though you could do it cheaper. The glass we use is pre-colored because the colors are added in the manufacturing process. However, it's not hard to color your own glass, provided you have access to a kiln and the proper supplies. Glass paints are actually powdered glass that is melted onto the surface you're painting. The best overview book on glass -- stained glass, painting, snadblasting -- that I've found is How to Work in Stained Glass by Anita and Seymour Isenberg Hope this helps! -----Original Message----- From: Melysma@aol.com [mailto:Melysma@aol.com] Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2001 1:26 AM To: glass@bungi.com Subject: new to stained glass... hi, i've recently developed a strong interest in stained glass and i would like to pursue it... but I'm not really sure what to start, nor do I really know what I'm getting myself into. How much does it cost to get started; what do I need? Also, I know that some (most??) stained glass artists use pre-colored glass.. but how would I go about painting my own? Any "tid-bits" of information that would help me out would be greatly appreciated! thanks, mel ------_=_NextPart_001_01C18318.3CEC2FD0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1"
Welcome to a wonderful hobby, Melysma!
 
I started fairly recently myself, and am having a hell of a lot of fun with it. I started out thinking I could teach myself, but was proven wrong after going through a lot of frustration and broken glass.
 
So, the best advice: find a class. You should be able to find a beginner's class for around $100 ~ $150. The teacher may provide some of the tools, but you'll probably have to buy some. Figure about $200 to $300 for a good setup, though you could do it cheaper.
 
The glass we use is pre-colored because the colors are added in the manufacturing process. However, it's not hard to color your own glass, provided you have access to a kiln and the proper supplies. Glass paints are actually powdered glass that is melted onto the surface you're painting.
 
The best overview book on glass -- stained glass,  painting, snadblasting -- that I've found is How to Work in Stained Glass by Anita and Seymour Isenberg
 
Hope this helps!
 
 -----Original Message-----
From: Melysma@aol.com [mailto:Melysma@aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2001 1:26 AM
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: new to stained glass...

hi, i've recently developed a strong interest in stained glass and i would like to pursue it... but I'm not really sure what to start, nor do I really know what I'm getting myself into. How much does it cost to get started; what do I need? Also, I know that some (most??) stained glass artists use pre-colored glass.. but how would I go about painting my own? Any "tid-bits" of information that would help me out would be greatly appreciated!
thanks,
mel
------_=_NextPart_001_01C18318.3CEC2FD0-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Dec 12 07:31:09 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 12 Dec 2001 07:09:59 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: stratus.com!Charlie.Spitzer From: "Spitzer, Charlie" To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain Subject: RE: Light Boxes Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2001 08:03:36 -0700 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@stratus.com> Precedence: bulk its pretty easy if it doesn't have to look good. find 1 or 2 florescent light fixtures. make a box out of 1x6 lumber such that the fixtures will fit inside. add a back of 1/4" plywood. cut a few holes in the back for ventilation. insert fixtures, top with 1/4" glass or plexiglas. to be fancy, wire the fixtures to a switch so you don't have to use the plug to turn it on/off. for a long time, i just used my glass dining table with a fixture under it. just don't let your wife catch you or run your cutter onto the glass top. damhikt. regards, charlie > -----Original Message----- > From: john & kay [mailto:john@horsfieldwatford.demon.co.uk] > Sent: Monday, December 03, 2001 6:50 AM > To: glass@bungi.com > Subject: Light Boxes > > > Hi > Just to introduce myself. > > My name is john Horsfield from Watford UK and i have just > joined the list. > > I want to make a light box and wonder if anyone has any advice, > specifications or templates. > > Thanks > > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Dec 12 08:32:05 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 12 Dec 2001 08:25:28 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: home.com!kristc From: "Kris" To: Content-Type: multipart/alternative; Subject: RE: new to stained glass... Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2001 08:40:43 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>> Precedence: bulk This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0021_01C182E8.AFC2FE60 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Glass, cutter, grinder, foil, solder, soldering iron, flux, grozers, that other tool with the slightly curved end that breaks scored glass (I'm sure someone here knows the proper name), paper for patterns, scissors, pencil,eraser, some sort of marker for marking patterns on your glass, a couple old towels.... and a work surface. I use a piece of sheetrock, others use ceiling tiles. Unless I forgot something that would be my "have-to-have" list. Check some glass retailers. When I got started I ordered a beginners kit from Delphi for about $350, a fairly good collection of glass and all the basic tools. I would buy colored glass. Painting on glass is a whole other art form which is fine if you are interested, but easier to try one new thing at a time, I think. Part of the appeal of stained glass, at least for me, is the gorgeous different glasses you can get to work with. Paint on glass that tried to duplicate good glass just wouldn't come close, IMO. Glass isn't the cheapest thing you could get into but I've found it very enjoyable. Start with something very simple, maybe a 5-piece sun catcher. It will probably look awful! At least with my first, nothing came together right and the soldering was downright embarrassing. Then, the more you do, the better things look. It takes some experience to get the hang of it though so don't give up right away. It's helpful if you can find someone to actually show you some things to help you get started. What is your location? Maybe someone here is nearby or knows someone. If not, maybe someone here can supply information about a company, I think it might be the Glass Giraffe? They have some videos that might be helpful. Stick around here! I've learned more here from these list members than anywhere else. Kris -----Original Message----- From: Melysma@aol.com [mailto:Melysma@aol.com] Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2001 1:26 AM To: glass@bungi.com Subject: new to stained glass... hi, i've recently developed a strong interest in stained glass and i would like to pursue it... but I'm not really sure what to start, nor do I really know what I'm getting myself into. How much does it cost to get started; what do I need? Also, I know that some (most??) stained glass artists use pre-colored glass.. but how would I go about painting my own? Any "tid-bits" of information that would help me out would be greatly appreciated! thanks, mel ------=_NextPart_000_0021_01C182E8.AFC2FE60 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Glass,=20 cutter, grinder, foil, solder, soldering iron, flux, grozers, that other = tool=20 with the slightly curved end that breaks scored glass (I'm sure someone = here=20 knows the proper name), paper for patterns, scissors, pencil,eraser, = some sort=20 of marker for marking patterns on your glass, a couple old = towels....  and=20 a work surface. I use a piece of sheetrock, others use ceiling tiles. = Unless I=20 forgot something that would be my "have-to-have" list. Check some glass=20 retailers. When I got started I ordered a beginners kit from Delphi for = about=20 $350, a fairly good collection of glass and all the basic tools.=20
 
I=20 would buy colored glass. Painting on glass is a whole other art form = which is=20 fine if you are interested, but easier to try one new thing at a time, I = think.=20 Part of the appeal of stained glass, at least for me, is the gorgeous = different=20 glasses you can get to work with. Paint on glass that tried to duplicate = good=20 glass just wouldn't come close, IMO.
 
Glass=20 isn't the cheapest thing you could get into but I've found it very = enjoyable.=20 Start with something very simple, maybe a 5-piece sun catcher. It=20 will probably look awful! At least with my first, nothing came = together=20 right and the soldering was downright embarrassing. Then, the more you = do, the=20 better things look. It takes some experience to get the hang of it = though so=20 don't give up right away. It's helpful if you can find someone to = actually show=20 you some things to help you get started. What is your location? Maybe = someone=20 here is nearby or knows someone. If not, maybe someone here can supply=20 information about a company, I think it might be the Glass Giraffe? They = have=20 some videos that might be helpful.
 
Stick=20 around here! I've learned more here from these list members than = anywhere=20 else.
 
Kris
-----Original Message-----
From: Melysma@aol.com=20 [mailto:Melysma@aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2001 = 1:26=20 AM
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: new to stained=20 glass...

hi, i've=20 recently developed a strong interest in stained glass and i would like = to=20 pursue it... but I'm not really sure what to start, nor do I really = know what=20 I'm getting myself into. How much does it cost to get started; what do = I need?=20 Also, I know that some (most??) stained glass artists use pre-colored = glass..=20 but how would I go about painting my own? Any "tid-bits" of = information that=20 would help me out would be greatly appreciated!
thanks, =
mel=20
------=_NextPart_000_0021_01C182E8.AFC2FE60-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Dec 12 15:24:03 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 12 Dec 2001 15:21:11 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard From: Steve Richard To: Cecily & Ralph Wood Subject: Re: DTC-800 controller Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2001 23:09:27 +0000 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@verrier> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>> Precedence: bulk Cec, I understand you to have a DTC 800 controller. I assume it is the same as in the UK. If so, you need to re-read the programming instructions. My display shows rA 400 for the first rate of advance of 400 degrees per hour the target temperature is entered as 800. This will take about two hours. The next entry is the time at which the temperature is to be held at the target temperature - in your case 2 hours. After two hours it will then go on to the rate of advance of 800 per hour until it reaches 1600, then it will hold (or soak) for three hours. Each segment has elements: rate of advance, target temperature, hold (or soak) time. The rate of advance can be negative such as from 1600 to 800 by giving rate of advance as 2000 and the target temp as 800. The kiln will then attempt to go down from 1600 to 800 at the rate of 2000 degrees per hour (i.e., as fast as possible) In message <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>, Cecily & Ralph Wood writes >OK - now I'm really confused. I entered a 2 segment program. > >Seg 1 at a rate of 400 for temp 800 in 2 hours (vented 1st half hour) >Seg 2 at a rate of 800 for temp 1600 in 3 hours > >At least, that's what I thought I'd told it. What I expected was that >after 1 hour the temp would be around 400, and after 2 hours it would be >800. If it hit 800 before the 2 hours were over, it would hold at that >temp. > >Then it would heat 800 degrees on up to 1600 in however long it takes >(which is actually probably close to 2 and a half hours), and if it >reached that, it would soak till the 3 hrs was over. The time the kiln would take to get from 800 to 1600 at 800 per hour is an hour, if there were no heat sinks in the kiln (there are of course - the bricks and material in the kiln) The soak is the time at the target temperature, however long it takes to get there. So, in one sense you are making this more difficult for yourself, by trying to calculate how long it will take the kiln to achieve the target temperature. You don' need to the controller does it for you. > >What seemed to happen was that it heated (while I vented) and it was >about 300 at the end of the half hour (doesn't seem to be able to heat >any higher when venter). I checked it after an hour and it was around >500 and still going up. However after another hour and a half I >rechecked, and it had reached and was holding 800, - and showing there >was an hour and a half to go!!!! So this shows that the kiln heated to 800 in two hours, just as you asked it to do. And then it began to soak for the two hours. If you didn't want it to soak at 800 at all, you need to enter 0 minutes for the soak. This means that it will then go straight on to the next segment. > >What I expected was that it would hold until the end of a total 2 hours >and then kick into the 2nd segment. Not so - It seemed to not count the >time it took to ramp up to the 800, and then intended to soak at 800 for >two hours. ??? So I told it to skip and it went into the 2nd segment. > >So I guess I've totally misunderstood what the thing is doing? I >thought I was telling it to ramp at a rate of A per hour for X hours, >and if it hit the upper bound B, to hold for the remaining time. >Instead it seems to be ramping at a rate of A per hour and then soaking >for X hours whenever it hits the upper bound B. > >Is this what really happens? This makes a vast difference in the >handling of the glass!!! -- Perplexed Cec > Yes the controller controls the rate of heating (or cooling) to what you determine. You decide how long the glass is to be soaked at the target temperature. What you are trying to do with the ramping is to heat the glass slowly (under 700 per hour) to the annealing point, and then faster to the target fusing/slumping/painting temperature (possibly hold there for a while), and then cool rapidly to the annealing temp., hold there a while, and control the cooling from there to room temperature. So you might have a programme of the following sort: (temps in F) S1 rA=600 Target temp.=1100 soak=0 S2 rA=1000 Target temp.=1650 soak 10 mins S3 rA=2000 Target temp.=1105 soak 15 mins S4 rA=80 Target temp.=1000 soak=0 S5 rA=160 Target temp.=900 soak=0 S6 rA=600 Target temp.=400 soak=0 Alarm 3333 Delay=000 Note: after 400F the kiln cools really slowly, so there is no reason to run the controller, unless you are doing really big things, that require much slower rates of cooling. Most fusing will require about 6 segments. Fusing larger pieces often require more segments. Sometimes I wish I had more than 8 possible. I don't know if I am helping here or making things more difficult. Steve -- Steve Richard Verrier Art Glass Ltd s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Dec 12 15:30:35 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 12 Dec 2001 15:21:47 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard From: Steve Richard To: Cecily & Ralph Wood Subject: Re: kiln paper Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2001 23:11:42 +0000 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@verrier> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>> Precedence: bulk I don't se why we shouldn't also talk about kilns on this list. Too much segregation leads to a lack of information, because people don't know what is available in terms of lists or information. Steve In message <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>, Cecily & Ralph Wood writes >Yes - I suppose you are right. But I already belong to too many lists. I'm >reluctant to get into another. - Cec > >"Spitzer, Charlie" wrote: > >> you should ask kiln questions on the bb at http://warmglass.com. there's a >> large body of info there. >> >> regards, >> charlie >> phx, az >> >> > -----Original Message----- >> > From: Cecily & Ralph Wood [mailto:cecnralph@home.com] >> > Sent: Tuesday, December 04, 2001 8:06 PM >> > To: Bungi Glass >> > Subject: kiln paper >> > >> > >> > I've been using it for the first time. When you first fire it to get >> > rid of the binders, etc...what color should it be after >> > firing? a grey >> > color? How long and how high does it need to be fired. Seems like it >> > takes a long time and a pretty high temperature. >> > >> > Also, it really seems to shrink. I cut it to fit the kiln shelf and >> > after firing (the real firing with the glass) it had shrunk a >> > good inch >> > in on all sides. Am I doing something wrong? >> > >> > Thanks - Cec >> > >> > ---- >> > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com >> > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com >> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass >> > > >---- >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com >To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass -- Steve Richard Verrier Art Glass Ltd s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Dec 12 22:01:02 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 12 Dec 2001 21:50:13 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: home.com!cecnralph From: Cecily & Ralph Wood To: Bungi Glass Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Subject: Re: DTC-800 controller Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2001 21:24:50 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com> References: <> Organization: Grendel Studio Precedence: bulk OK - now I've got it. I was totally misunderstanding what it was doing. Tonite I told it to go 400 up to 400 and the time of 10 minutes and I watched it. (Vented the first 30 min) It did soak for 10 minutes and held it at almost 400 (got down to 388), and then I watched it kick into the long high segment, and I now know how high to go (1495) and told it to soak at 5 minutes and then it should stop? I figure that will take around 2 and a half hours to get up where I want it.. I've also discovered that flash venting at the top temperature has to be done 3 times to get it down around 1000 (b ecause of the heat rebound after the air around the pyrometer get s cooled but then when I close it back , the heat from the walls reheats the air.) Since I'm using such thick glass (5/8 "), it really does take a LOoooonnngg time to cool even when it gets down around 300 or less. On one unsuccessful run (left it too long and got full fuse) when it got back to around 200, I ran some very hot water in a pan and put one thing in it and it immediately cracked. However I took the other two out and stacked them on top of one another on top of a pile of towels, and they were just fine. Do you think people could put these in the dishwasher? They are only float glass, not borosylicate (Pyrex), so I don't know how they'd take the rapid rise in temperature from the water. Some are 6x6, and some 6x8 and 6x10, with feet made from the same glass. OK - now another question. About the alarm. That is simply to tell you if the highest temperature is higher than what you've set the alarm to - either as a safety factor (the controller doesn't stop heating as it should) or to tell you you get down there RIGHT NOW to vent. ?? And another question. When I got it, they'd sent it with the shelf, of course, and the stilts were tall - a good 3 " so that the shelf was up quite a ways. I went and got some 1" stilts so the shelf is now below the pyrameter (which is in the vent hole). That's what I've been doing this run of glass with, since I thought the other would be way too close to the heating coils. However, can you use the shelf that high? Like for normal or thin layers, making jewelry or "panels" or some such? Would it make much difference in how fast it fires - if you used all identical except the shelf height? Thank you for all your help! - Cec Steve Richard wrote: > Cec, > I understand you to have a DTC 800 controller. I assume it is > the same as in the UK. If so, you need to re-read the programming > instructions. > My display shows rA 400 for the first rate of advance of 400 > degrees per hour the target temperature is entered as 800. This will > take about two hours. The next entry is the time at which the > temperature is to be held at the target temperature - in your case 2 > hours. After two hours it will then go on to the rate of advance of 800 > per hour until it reaches 1600, then it will hold (or soak) for three > hours. > > Each segment has elements: rate of advance, target > temperature, hold (or soak) time. The rate of advance can be negative > such as from 1600 to 800 by giving rate of advance as 2000 and the > target temp as 800. The kiln will then attempt to go down from 1600 to > 800 at the rate of 2000 degrees per hour (i.e., as fast as possible) > > In message <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>, Cecily & Ralph Wood > writes > >OK - now I'm really confused. I entered a 2 segment program. > > > >Seg 1 at a rate of 400 for temp 800 in 2 hours (vented 1st half hour) > >Seg 2 at a rate of 800 for temp 1600 in 3 hours > > > >At least, that's what I thought I'd told it. What I expected was that > >after 1 hour the temp would be around 400, and after 2 hours it would be > >800. If it hit 800 before the 2 hours were over, it would hold at that > >temp. > > > >Then it would heat 800 degrees on up to 1600 in however long it takes > >(which is actually probably close to 2 and a half hours), and if it > >reached that, it would soak till the 3 hrs was over. > The time the kiln would take to get from 800 to 1600 at 800 per hour is > an hour, if there were no heat sinks in the kiln (there are of course - > the bricks and material in the kiln) The soak is the time at the target > temperature, however long it takes to get there. So, in one sense you > are making this more difficult for yourself, by trying to calculate how > long it will take the kiln to achieve the target temperature. You don' > need to the controller does it for you. > > > >What seemed to happen was that it heated (while I vented) and it was > >about 300 at the end of the half hour (doesn't seem to be able to heat > >any higher when venter). I checked it after an hour and it was around > >500 and still going up. However after another hour and a half I > >rechecked, and it had reached and was holding 800, - and showing there > >was an hour and a half to go!!!! > So this shows that the kiln heated to 800 in two hours, just as you > asked it to do. And then it began to soak for the two hours. If you > didn't want it to soak at 800 at all, you need to enter 0 minutes for > the soak. This means that it will then go straight on to the next > segment. > > > >What I expected was that it would hold until the end of a total 2 hours > >and then kick into the 2nd segment. Not so - It seemed to not count the > >time it took to ramp up to the 800, and then intended to soak at 800 for > >two hours. ??? So I told it to skip and it went into the 2nd segment. > > > >So I guess I've totally misunderstood what the thing is doing? I > >thought I was telling it to ramp at a rate of A per hour for X hours, > >and if it hit the upper bound B, to hold for the remaining time. > >Instead it seems to be ramping at a rate of A per hour and then soaking > >for X hours whenever it hits the upper bound B. > > > >Is this what really happens? This makes a vast difference in the > >handling of the glass!!! -- Perplexed Cec > > > Yes the controller controls the rate of heating (or cooling) to what you > determine. You decide how long the glass is to be soaked at the target > temperature. > > What you are trying to do with the ramping is to heat the glass > slowly (under 700 per hour) to the annealing point, and then faster to > the target fusing/slumping/painting temperature (possibly hold there for > a while), and then cool rapidly to the annealing temp., hold there a > while, and control the cooling from there to room temperature. > So you might have a programme of the following sort: > (temps in F) > > S1 rA=600 Target temp.=1100 soak=0 > S2 rA=1000 Target temp.=1650 soak 10 mins > S3 rA=2000 Target temp.=1105 soak 15 mins > S4 rA=80 Target temp.=1000 soak=0 > S5 rA=160 Target temp.=900 soak=0 > S6 rA=600 Target temp.=400 soak=0 > Alarm 3333 > Delay=000 > > Note: after 400F the kiln cools really slowly, so there is no reason to > run the controller, unless you are doing really big things, that require > much slower rates of cooling. > Most fusing will require about 6 segments. Fusing larger pieces often > require more segments. Sometimes I wish I had more than 8 possible. > > I don't know if I am helping here or making things more difficult. > > Steve > > -- > Steve Richard > Verrier Art Glass Ltd > s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Dec 12 23:04:19 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 12 Dec 2001 22:34:54 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: doorpi.net!mmam5 From: "Marci" To: "Family Account" , Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Re: Chihuly chandelier Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2001 19:29:31 -0600 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@doorpi.net> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@mail2.nai.net>> Precedence: bulk WOW! I wasn't sure what you were talking about, so I went to www.google.com and used their Image Search for Chihuly chandelier's . . . . AMAZING! There are many many samples of his work. I can only imagine how impressive they would be to see in real time! Thanks! Marci Martin Designs ----- Original Message ----- From: "Family Account" To: Sent: Monday, December 10, 2001 9:04 PM Subject: Chihuly chandelier > Friday night John and I went to see a new, BIG, Chihuly chandelier-like > structure ---okay, it was in the Mohegan Sun casino and there was a free > concert by Three Dog Night, but seeing it was ONE of the reasons we > went. You know, the pictures of those things just don't really impress > on you just how truly big they are!. This one is blue, shite and clear, > kind of vaguely trumpet shaped, about two stories high. Right across > from the big indoor waterfall. > Anyway, worth a look if you are in SW Connecticut. Here there's a new > one Hartford in the new Bushnell building, but I haven't seen that one > yet. > > Dorothy > > > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Dec 13 01:00:50 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 13 Dec 2001 00:59:18 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: hotmail.com!theglassparrott From: "Cheryl Parrott" To: mmam5@doorpi.net, glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed Subject: Re: Chihuly chandelier Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 00:58:08 -0800 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@hotmail.com> Precedence: bulk When Elisabeth was in Seattle on part of her tour to the U.S. in 1999 a few of us in the NorthWest delegation were invited to go to one of Chihuly's studio's. He has five of them here in the Seattle-Tacoma area. We were in the one that the clients go to see the pieces before they are shipped. It is in a very large warehouse. There is virtually no indication that it is a Chihuly building. They actually build rooms duplicating the area in which the client will display the piece. We saw a mock-up of the Disney cruise line. Interestingly the pieces for Disney were not glass, however you could not tell. They were amazing!!! It was a real thrill to see all the fabulous pieces throughout the studio. Cheryl Parrott _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Dec 13 03:01:07 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 13 Dec 2001 02:33:06 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: hotmail.com!theglassparrott From: "Cheryl Parrott" To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed Subject: wholesale Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 01:24:26 -0800 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@hotmail.com> Precedence: bulk I have found myself in an exciting position of possiblly having thousands of dollars worth of wholesale orders for stained glass items I have created. A shop owner of a very elite store in the Fashion Show Mall in Las Vegas is interested in my pieces. She will be calling me tomorrow. My sister lives in Las Vegas and was talking to the shop owner last week and had mentioned my pieces and how well they had been selling in the Seattle area. The shop owner asked to see some of my work so...today my sis took some of my work in for her to see. Apparently the shop owner fell in love with everything. These are not cheap pieces. I have a beautiful line of boxes with decorative solder work. I have never seen anyone do the type of pieces I am selling. In addition to that I have several very large snowflakes which I designed. The pieces sell between $84 and $250. I wholesaled 44 of the snowflakes to a Molbaks a local specialty shop here in the Seattle area. In three weeks 41 of them sold. It has been pretty exciting. Especially considering that Maltby Stained Glass owned by the author of the snowflake pattern books is only ten miles from Molbaks. The owner of the Las Vegas store will be calling tomorrow. She wants to have an exclusive for Las Vegas. Has anyone dealt with wholesale orders and exclusives. Typically how much should I ask for as a down payment? What should the exclusive entail? the next question... piece work. I am going to need help. How do you go about getting someone to help. I would like someone to do all the copper foiling. Someone to do the cleaning and polishing.. etc. Also, does anyone have a rep to help sell their pieces? I'd love some input on that too! This has been an exciting month watching my glass fly out of the store and now to have an exclusive shop with a lot of potential interested in my pieces. I started to cry today when I got the call. I'd love all your input and advice. Thanks, Cheryl Parrott The Glass Parrott _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Dec 13 06:43:37 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 13 Dec 2001 06:11:26 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles From: "Christie A. Wood" To: Bungi Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Re: Chihuly chandelier Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 08:47:00 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com> Precedence: bulk Message text written by "Cheryl Parrott" >They actually build rooms duplicating the area in which the client will = display the piece. We saw a mock-up of the Disney cruise line. = Interestingly the pieces for Disney were not glass, however you could not= = tell. They were amazing!!!< What were they? Plastic? Christie A. Wood Art Glass Ensembles Denton, TX ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Dec 13 07:01:29 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 13 Dec 2001 06:37:11 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles From: "Christie A. Wood" To: Bungi Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: wholesale Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 08:47:01 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com> Precedence: bulk Message text written by "Cheryl Parrott" >The owner of the Las Vegas store will be calling tomorrow. She wants to= = have an exclusive for Las Vegas. Has anyone dealt with wholesale orders and = exclusives. Typically how much should I ask for as a down payment? What= = should the exclusive entail? the next question... piece work. I am going to need help. How do you go= = about getting someone to help. I would like someone to do all the copper= = foiling. Someone to do the cleaning and polishing.. etc. Also, does anyone have a rep to help sell their pieces? I'd love some = input on that too!< Firstly, Cheryl, CONGRATULATIONS! Well done, well done. Next; to answer some of your questions.....I do wholesale orders, and have done so for about 5 years now. I do offer exclusivity in my wholesa= le order contracts. There are a couple of "standard" ways to offer exclusivity - one is by zip code (that's the one I use); the other is by area code. Whoever orders first from that zip code, get's exclusivity on selling you= r stuff, until such time as you determine they are not longer actively promoting/selling your stuff (i.e. no reorders for one year), then you ca= n free up that selling area again. Downpayments? I don't ask for them for wholesale orders. My terms on wholesale orders are COD or credit card or Pro Forma for first order, then Net 30 thereafter with credit list. I use downpayments for custom orders only (non-wholesale). Piecework - yes, there are people out there looking for piecework jobs. I have a lady in Pennsylvania who does piecework for me. She works out of her house and likes to do piecework. She's especially great at foiling! If interested, contact me offline and I'll give you her email address. Sales rep? Yes...I have had a sales rep for the last 2 years. She only reps American/Canadian glass artists and hand-made paper artists (but mostly glass artists). She is located in the Philadelphia area and does the Philadelphia Gift Show, the Ocean City Gift Show (NJ) and is thinking about branching out into the NYC and/or Atlanta gift show markets. Her territory is eastern PA, southern NJ, all of = DE and MD. She also has a sub-rep located in Houston, TX who reps TX and LA. If interested in having her be your rep, again, contact me offline and I'll give you her contact info. Best wishes and again, congratulations! Christie A. Wood Art Glass Ensembles Denton, TX ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Dec 13 12:24:01 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 13 Dec 2001 12:14:37 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: hotmail.com!createglass From: "Larry ." To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed Subject: christmas ornament ideas Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 20:10:48 +0000 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@hotmail.com> Precedence: bulk Hello all, I just found out I am going to get to spend a few days of Christmas with my family... I'd love to have a little something to give them each, without going out and buying a gift. (which was outlawed among our family many years ago) I have made them holly leaves with glass bead berries... and I've made them Christmas balls from stained glass... Does anyone have any really cute and fairly simple ornament patterns? I'm thinking about doing a stocking, but I'm not all that happy with the design I made. Any good ideas or better yet, patterns? Larry _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Dec 13 13:00:34 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 13 Dec 2001 12:47:07 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: doorpi.net!mmam5 From: mmam5@doorpi.net To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain Subject: Patterns Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 13:44:14 EST Message-ID: <200112131844.fBDIiJj94879@mail1.netacc.net> Precedence: bulk Hi Gang: Hope everyone is having fun getting ready for the Holidays! Here's a quick question for you: How much should be charged for just a stained glass pattern? Does it go by size? Intricacy? I realize that a full size version of a pattern would be more $$ than a small sample pattern. But I'm not sure how much would be a fair price. Thanks! Marci Martin Designs ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Dec 13 13:21:36 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 13 Dec 2001 12:58:27 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: gjr From: gjr@bungi.com (Glenna Rand) To: "Larry ." , glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: christmas ornament ideas Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 12:56:31 PST Message-ID: Precedence: bulk [In the message entitled "christmas ornament ideas" on Dec 13, 20:10, "Larry ." writes:] > > I have made them holly leaves with glass bead berries... and I've made them > Christmas balls from stained glass... > > Does anyone have any really cute and fairly simple ornament patterns? I've seen slivers of glass made into hanging icicles for xmas trees. They are real simple... -- Glenna Rand gjr@bungi.com ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Dec 13 17:28:42 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 13 Dec 2001 17:23:11 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: doorpi.net!mmam5 From: "Marci" To: Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Patterns Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 18:09:25 -0600 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@doorpi.net> References: <<200112131844.fBDIiJj94879@mail1.netacc.net>> Precedence: bulk ha ha - -I guess I should be more specific - I have someone who wants to commission just a pattern for a full size window. I like sharing patterns with others, but since this is an original design that I'm working on, my client would like to pay for my time and energy to make the pattern. I've seen places on the net that charge $20-$30 for full size patterns. Is this the going rate? Thanks! Marci Martin Designs ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2001 12:44 PM Subject: Patterns > Hi Gang: > > Hope everyone is having fun getting ready for the Holidays! > > Here's a quick question for you: > > How much should be charged for just a stained glass pattern? Does it go by > size? Intricacy? I realize that a full size version of a pattern would be > more $$ than a small sample pattern. But I'm not sure how much would be a > fair price. > > Thanks! > > Marci > Martin Designs > > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Dec 13 18:00:34 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 13 Dec 2001 17:35:45 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: home.com!kristc From: "Kris" To: Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: RE: christmas ornament ideas Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 18:33:58 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@hotmail.com>> Precedence: bulk Sometimes children's coloring books are good for pattern ideas, especially the simpler ones for the younger children. Kris -----Original Message----- From: Larry . [mailto:createglass@hotmail.com] Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2001 3:11 PM To: glass@bungi.com Subject: christmas ornament ideas Hello all, I just found out I am going to get to spend a few days of Christmas with my family... I'd love to have a little something to give them each, without going out and buying a gift. (which was outlawed among our family many years ago) I have made them holly leaves with glass bead berries... and I've made them Christmas balls from stained glass... Does anyone have any really cute and fairly simple ornament patterns? I'm thinking about doing a stocking, but I'm not all that happy with the design I made. Any good ideas or better yet, patterns? Larry _________________________________________________________________ ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Dec 14 00:35:23 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 14 Dec 2001 00:26:57 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: yahoo.com!texpenguin From: Sherry Greer To: createglass@hotmail.com, glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: Re: christmas ornament ideas Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 18:59:08 -0800 (PST) Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@hotmail.com>> Precedence: bulk I've been using irridescent clear crackle glass and freehanding icicle ornaments. You get a ton out of a craft size sheet of glass. I've just been grinding the edges smooth and leaving them unfoiled, and then wrapping decorative jewelry wire around the top as the hanger (with a spiral or curly q or two). Very quick and cheap. I plan to sell mine at a craft sale Saturday. Will let you all know how they go over! At least I finally found a use for that coated copper jewelry wire that doesn't solder! Sherry ===== Sherry Greer texpenguin@yahoo.com __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Check out Yahoo! Shopping and Yahoo! Auctions for all of your unique holiday gifts! Buy at http://shopping.yahoo.com or bid at http://auctions.yahoo.com ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Dec 14 02:02:10 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 14 Dec 2001 01:49:07 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: stainedglass.co.uk!studio From: "studio@stainedglass.co.uk" To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Subject: Re: Patterns Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 09:18:30 +0000 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@stainedglass.co.uk> Precedence: bulk At 18:09 13/12/01 -0600, Marci wrote: >ha ha - -I guess I should be more specific - I have someone who wants to >commission just a pattern for a full size window. I like sharing patterns >with others, but since this is an original design that I'm working on, my >client would like to pay for my time and energy to make the pattern. Marci - you have really answered your own question here! :-) Work out how long it takes to do by timing yourself and charge them your usual hourly rate plus a 'profit' for the design idea. Don't forget - the time you are spending working on this project is worth no less than what you could charge for time spent making another panel. Are you granting them unlimited use of your copyright or just a one-off? Again this permission could be worth money if they want to repeat the panel. Regards EliZabeth in Bournemouth Bournemouth Stained Glass http://www.stainedglass.co.uk UK Charter Member RAGS ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Dec 14 03:47:34 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 14 Dec 2001 03:37:11 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: yahoo.com!mikekab2000 From: micheal kabbah To: ausrail@railpage.org.au Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: URGENT BUSINESS PROPOSAL Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 03:27:04 -0800 (PST) Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com> Precedence: bulk MICHEAL KABBAH ATTN:THE CHAIRMAN/MD FAMILY REQUEST I do recognise the surprise this urgent but confidential letter brings to you, especially as it came from a stranger,but consider this letter as a request from a family in dare need of assistance. Firstly,I must introduce my self to you. I am Micheal Kabbah from the Repblic of Sierra Leon. I am the first son of brigadier Victor Kabbah (Sr. I am presently residing in South Africa.) However your contact was made possible from a journal at the World Trade Centre (WTC) in Johannesburg. After reading through your profile,I bacame assured of your capability in handling this transaction hence this letter. I decided to solict for your assistance to transfer the sum of US$17 Million (Seventeen Million United States Dollar) inherited from my late father into your personal or company's account. Before his death, he was a brigadier in charge of arms and ammunition procurement for Sierra Leoean armed forces. In his WILL, he specifically drew my attention to US$17 Million (Seventeen Million United State Dollars) which he deposited, in safe boxes in a private security company in Johaanesburg South Africa. IN FACT, MY FATHER SAID IN HIS WILL AND I QUOTE My beloved son, I wish to draw your attention to US$17 Million (Seventeen United Dollar). I deposited the box containing the fund in a security company in Johannesburg South Africa. During the war, I was dedicated and committed to wining the war against the rebel intill I found out that senior officers and government functioners were busy helping themselves to gonernment funds and propeties. Due to this,when I and the former special adviser to the president where I assigned by the president (Ahmed Tejan Kabbah) to purchase arms in South Africa, after purchase of arms and ammunition, we realised a surplus of US$32M from over invoicing. However, I deposited the money in a security company to avoid trace in case of a scadal. In case of my absence on earth as a result of death or any unforeseen circumstances,you should solicit for assistance of a reliable and sincere partner to assist you transfer this money out of South Africa for investment purposes. I deposited the consigment and told them that it is for my foreign parner to avoid eyebrow and suspects but your name is stated as the next of kin. Take good care of your brother. Don't come back to Sierra Leone untill the war is over and beware of enemies and family kindred that are related to us in libido. From this statement,, you will understand that the life and future of my brother and me depends on this money.As such,I will be grateful if you can assist us. We are living in South Africa as political asylum seekers, and financial laws and regulations of the republic of South Africa does not permit us certain financial rights. In view of this, I cannot invest this money in South Africa. Hence I am asking for your assistance to transfer this money out of South Africa for investment purposes. AND THE MONEY (US$17M) WILL BE SHARED AS FOLLOWS: (a) 20% of the total sum to you if you assist us in transferring this money succesfully into any of your overseas account. ( b) 5% of the total sum will be aside to offset all bills and expenses incurred in the process of this transaction (c) 75% of the total sum will be for me and my brother for investment in any country of your choice. Please note that this transaction is risk free on your side as we have concluded all modalities to aid this transfer. Should this meet your utmost consideration, please give us your earlist reply . And be kind to provide us with your private telephone number and your e-mail address if any, for easy communication and confidential link. The confidentiality in this transaction cannot be over emphasized as we trust and believe that you will oblige us the needed security and attention it demands. Please treat this transaction with absolute confidentiality. Thanks. Yours Faithfully, Micheal Kabbah. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Check out Yahoo! Shopping and Yahoo! Auctions for all of your unique holiday gifts! Buy at http://shopping.yahoo.com or bid at http://auctions.yahoo.com ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Dec 14 04:32:12 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 14 Dec 2001 04:01:47 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: home.com!cecnralph From: Cecily & Ralph Wood To: Bungi Glass Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Subject: Re: Patterns Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 23:11:40 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@doorpi.net>> Organization: Grendel Studio Precedence: bulk Depends. Do you intend to keep the copyright and rights to reuse the design? Or are you selling them all rights to use the design not just one or more windows but for them to turn around and sell the design? You need to be careful how you word the "sale". If you intend to keep the rights to the design, then you are charging them a fee for designing, you are not sellling the design. You can still keep the copyright and rights to the design but give them exclusivity rights - in other words you will not create another window and sell it to someone else. You need to make it plain to them you still retain the rights to the design. Whether they intend to build the window or have someone else do it, be certain they understand that that they can make only so many copies, and if they have it done, that fabricator may not reuse the design. - Cec Marci wrote: > ha ha - -I guess I should be more specific - I have someone who wants to > commission just a pattern for a full size window. I like sharing patterns > with others, but since this is an original design that I'm working on, my > client would like to pay for my time and energy to make the pattern. I've > seen places on the net that charge $20-$30 for full size patterns. Is this > the going rate? > > Thanks! > > Marci > Martin Designs > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: > To: > Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2001 12:44 PM > Subject: Patterns > > > Hi Gang: > > > > Hope everyone is having fun getting ready for the Holidays! > > > > Here's a quick question for you: > > > > How much should be charged for just a stained glass pattern? Does it go by > > size? Intricacy? I realize that a full size version of a pattern would be > > more $$ than a small sample pattern. But I'm not sure how much would be a > > fair price. > > > > Thanks! > > > > Marci > > Martin Designs > > > > ---- > > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > > > > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Dec 14 07:01:28 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 14 Dec 2001 06:48:07 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles From: "Christie A. Wood" To: Bungi Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Patterns Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 09:19:24 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com> Precedence: bulk Message text written by "Marci" >ha ha - -I guess I should be more specific - I have someone who wants = to commission just a pattern for a full size window. I like sharing patterns= with others, but since this is an original design that I'm working on, my= client would like to pay for my time and energy to make the pattern. I'v= e seen places on the net that charge $20-$30 for full size patterns. Is th= is the going rate?< Since this is a commissioned pattern, and someone else will be making the= actual window (I assume), I would charge for my design time as well as th= e pattern creation. Be very, very clear about who owns the copyright to yo= ur pattern. You? The client? Get this in writing before they send it off = to China and it ends up as a cheap import item. Christie A. Wood Art Glass Ensembles Denton, TX ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Dec 14 07:17:14 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 14 Dec 2001 06:57:45 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard From: Steve Richard To: Cecily & Ralph Wood Content-Type: text/plain;charset=iso-8859-1 Subject: Re: DTC-800 controller Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 21:17:50 +0000 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@verrier> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>> Precedence: bulk In message <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>, Cecily & Ralph Wood writes >OK - now I've got it. I was totally misunderstanding what it was doing. >Tonite I told it to go 400 up to 400 and the time of 10 minutes and I >watched it. (Vented the first 30 min) It did soak for 10 minutes and held >it at almost 400 (got down to 388), and then I watched it kick into the long >high segment, and I now know how high to go (1495) and told it to soak at 5 >minutes and then it should stop? I figure that will take around 2 and a >half hours to get up where I want it.. I've also discovered that flash >venting at the top temperature has to be done 3 times to get it down around >1000 (b ecause of the heat rebound after the air around the pyrometer get s >cooled but then when I close it back , the heat from the walls reheats the >air.) > Why are you venting the kiln on the heat up? Are you using glues to hold the glass together? If not, you probably don't need to vent. If, as some do, you are concerned about tin fumes, the tin vaporises at much higher temperatures, possible even above fusing temperatures. I'm sure someone on the list knows about this. I'm not sure why you are flash venting on a glass kiln. I don't know what glass you are using, but if it is float glass the annealing temperature must be in the region of 940 to 900 F (540 t0 520 C). In a glass kiln you should get a rapid fall in temperature from 1495 to 1000 (about 15-20 mins). But you must then stop the fall in temperature at the annealing point, or the glass will have stresses in it that may not be visible, but will eventually break the glass. >Since I'm using such thick glass (5/8 "), it really does take a LOoooonnngg >time to cool even when it gets down around 300 or less. My front loading Paragon cools at a rate of about 200F/hour from about 500F, and at about 100F/hour from 250F. When this is too slow, I prop the door open a little to speed the cooling at the programmed rate. Of course the safety features built into the kiln turn off the power when you open the door. This is why I don't programme down to a temperature where the natural (un-powered) cooling rate is less than the programme would request. >On one unsuccessful >run (left it too long and got full fuse) when it got back to around 200, I >ran some very hot water in a pan and put one thing in it and it immediately >cracked. However I took the other two out and stacked them on top of one >another on top of a pile of towels, and they were just fine. Very hot water is about 120F, so you gave the glass quite a shock, changing the surface temperature from 200 to 120 in no time at all! Glass does not like rapid temperature changes. It will stand up to a lot of gradual temperature changes though. Well it should take a really long time for 5/8" of glass to cool. The following information taken from Prof. Cummings' book on fusing shows that a lot is time is needed to cool the glass. 12mm (1/2) · Hold at AP +5 C. for 30 mins. +10F · Reduce to SP -5 C. at 18 C/ hour -10F · Reduce next 50 C. at 36 C/ hour 100F at 72F · Reduce to 60 C at 180 C/ hour 76F at 360F Ca. 7 hours Now note how long it takes for something just twice as thick: 25mm (1 inch) · Hold at AP +5 C. for 90 mins. +10F · Reduce to SP -5 C. at 6 C/ hour -10F · Reduce next 50 C. at 12 C/ hour 100F at 24F · Reduce to 60 C at 45 C/ hour 76F at 90F Ca. 26 hours What you are doing is between these two. Generally, with each 1/8 inch increase you double the time, so you have an exponential increase in cooling time for linear increase in thickness. In the data given here, the thickness doubles but the annealing time and cooling times increase by almost four times. So for 5/8" glass I would hold at the annealing point for 40 mins, and cool for the first segment at 30F per hour, and the second at 60F / hour. The final cooling segment might go at 300F per hour. In all, the cooling will take about 8 or 9 hours. The annealing and cooling is the longest part of any fuse programme. One thing you need with the cooling of glass is patience. A long slow cool is required, and cannot be too slow (within limits, of course). I'm guessing here, so I may be wrong. But I don't see any annealing or cooling schedule in your comments. I think your glass has a lot of stress in it. You can check with a couple of polarising light filters. Put one down over a light source, place the glass on top. Use the other on top of the glass, and rotate it until there is almost no light showing. Any stress will show up as a glow of light around the stressed part. > >Do you think people could put these in the dishwasher? They are only float >glass, not borosylicate (Pyrex), so I don't know how they'd take the rapid >rise in temperature from the water. Some are 6x6, and some 6x8 and 6x10, >with feet made from the same glass. Try your freezer first. Glass becomes a little more brittle at low temperatures. If it breaks in the freezer, it is an easier clean up than in the dishwasher. I know from experience! If it survives the freezer, it will survive the dishwasher, unless you have super hot cycles. If the resulting fused glass is still 5/8 inch rather than closer to 1/4 inch, it will have a lot of strength and can stand up to a lot of heat change, if it is gradual. Now I have the answer about one thing. As you are using float glass, you need to anneal it in the range 940F to 900F. (some people recommend the upper, some the lower part of this range. You could be safe and go for the middle) So you take the glass up to the fusing temperature, then set the controller to let the temperature drop at 2000F per hour to 930F (I do wish you all would go on to the Celsius measurement for temperatures! Then I could put my calculator away.) That is, 10 degrees above the annealing point of 920F. Hold at 930 for 40 mins, then reduce the temperature at 30F per hour to 820F, no hold. The next segment would have the rate of advance at 60F per hour to 720F, no hold. The final segment would have the rate of advance at 300F per hour to 76F, no hold. You will have seen my sample programme in the previous message showing that although the rate of advance intuitively is up, it can also be a negative rate of advance. So the above programme would take between 7 & 8 hours added to the heat up time. Giving a 10-12 hour cycle for a complete programme. > >OK - now another question. About the alarm. That is simply to tell you if >the highest temperature is higher than what you've set the alarm to - either >as a safety factor (the controller doesn't stop heating as it should) or to >tell you you get down there RIGHT NOW to vent. ?? I use the alarm to allow me to do other things until the kiln has reached a temperature where I want to watch what is happening. Once I know what is happening with the glass, the mould, and the height of the shelf, I no longer use the alarm for that set of conditions. Watching what is happening is important when trying out something new, like different glass, different moulds or different heating rates. etc. So yes, you can use it as a safety measure, or as an indicator that you need to do something now! > >And another question. When I got it, they'd sent it with the shelf, of >course, and the stilts were tall - a good 3 " so that the shelf was up quite >a ways. I went and got some 1" stilts so the shelf is now below the >pyrameter (which is in the vent hole). That's what I've been doing this run >of glass with, since I thought the other would be way too close to the >heating coils. However, can you use the shelf that high? Like for normal >or thin layers, making jewelry or "panels" or some such? Would it make much >difference in how fast it fires - if you used all identical except the shelf >height? > Yes you can use the shelf at most heights that will keep the glass at least a couple of inches away from the elements. In one sense, the closer the glass is to the elements, the greater the chance of uneven heating, so the heating has to be slower. In all cases the pyrometer has to be above the glass! If the pyrometer was below the shelf, it would read very cool temperatures, although the area above the kiln was very hot. The differential might be as much as 400F or 500F. I am surprised that the manufacturer did not drill a hole especially for the pyrometer. It is useful to have it permanently installed. It is a delicate instrument and can be damaged by repeated handling. My pyrometer is about 1" down from the top (and only) elements in the kiln. Never, never fire the kiln with the pyrometer below the shelf. It will overheat, and over fire whatever you have put into the kiln. The pyrometer is intended to record the temp. in the main part of the chamber. If your pyrometer is really so low, get out your drill. Figure out how thick the bricks are (or how far down from the top they are, add 1 or 1 and 1/2 inch and drill a hole centrally placed in the side of the kiln. Through the metal and the brick. Go slowly through the brick though. Check with the manufacturer about invalidating warranties before doing this. You will get different results from the same programme, if you change the height of the shelf. The higher the shelf, the hotter it is, but is more likely to give uneven heating. The lower the shelf, the cooler it will be. So if you normally fire on 1" kiln posts, but for a change put the shelf on the floor of the kiln, that inch will make quite a difference to the result. What formerly might have been a flat fuse, might be only rounded or even just laminated. The thickness of the glass does not determine how high in the kiln the pieces should be placed. There will be no difference in the speed of firing, just in the results. Ideally, you want the shelf at a height where you can look into the kiln through the peep hole in the door normally on front loading kilns, and in the side for top opening kilns (I realise that I don't know which yours is). When you look through the peep hole, you should be slightly above the shelf, so you can look on the glass as it is heating. In slumping you might need to adjust the shelf height a little so you can see the full range of the slump from flat to fully formed. >Thank you for all your help! - Cec You are welcome. I hope it is useful. Steve > >Steve Richard wrote: > >> Cec, >> I understand you to have a DTC 800 controller. I assume it is >> the same as in the UK. If so, you need to re-read the programming >> instructions. >> My display shows rA 400 for the first rate of advance of 400 >> degrees per hour the target temperature is entered as 800. This will >> take about two hours. The next entry is the time at which the >> temperature is to be held at the target temperature - in your case 2 >> hours. After two hours it will then go on to the rate of advance of 800 >> per hour until it reaches 1600, then it will hold (or soak) for three >> hours. >> >> Each segment has elements: rate of advance, target >> temperature, hold (or soak) time. The rate of advance can be negative >> such as from 1600 to 800 by giving rate of advance as 2000 and the >> target temp as 800. The kiln will then attempt to go down from 1600 to >> 800 at the rate of 2000 degrees per hour (i.e., as fast as possible) >> >> In message <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>, Cecily & Ralph Wood >> writes >> >OK - now I'm really confused. I entered a 2 segment program. >> > >> >Seg 1 at a rate of 400 for temp 800 in 2 hours (vented 1st half hour) >> >Seg 2 at a rate of 800 for temp 1600 in 3 hours >> > >> >At least, that's what I thought I'd told it. What I expected was that >> >after 1 hour the temp would be around 400, and after 2 hours it would be >> >800. If it hit 800 before the 2 hours were over, it would hold at that >> >temp. >> > >> >Then it would heat 800 degrees on up to 1600 in however long it takes >> >(which is actually probably close to 2 and a half hours), and if it >> >reached that, it would soak till the 3 hrs was over. >> The time the kiln would take to get from 800 to 1600 at 800 per hour is >> an hour, if there were no heat sinks in the kiln (there are of course - >> the bricks and material in the kiln) The soak is the time at the target >> temperature, however long it takes to get there. So, in one sense you >> are making this more difficult for yourself, by trying to calculate how >> long it will take the kiln to achieve the target temperature. You don' >> need to the controller does it for you. >> > >> >What seemed to happen was that it heated (while I vented) and it was >> >about 300 at the end of the half hour (doesn't seem to be able to heat >> >any higher when venter). I checked it after an hour and it was around >> >500 and still going up. However after another hour and a half I >> >rechecked, and it had reached and was holding 800, - and showing there >> >was an hour and a half to go!!!! >> So this shows that the kiln heated to 800 in two hours, just as you >> asked it to do. And then it began to soak for the two hours. If you >> didn't want it to soak at 800 at all, you need to enter 0 minutes for >> the soak. This means that it will then go straight on to the next >> segment. >> > >> >What I expected was that it would hold until the end of a total 2 hours >> >and then kick into the 2nd segment. Not so - It seemed to not count the >> >time it took to ramp up to the 800, and then intended to soak at 800 for >> >two hours. ??? So I told it to skip and it went into the 2nd segment. >> > >> >So I guess I've totally misunderstood what the thing is doing? I >> >thought I was telling it to ramp at a rate of A per hour for X hours, >> >and if it hit the upper bound B, to hold for the remaining time. >> >Instead it seems to be ramping at a rate of A per hour and then soaking >> >for X hours whenever it hits the upper bound B. >> > >> >Is this what really happens? This makes a vast difference in the >> >handling of the glass!!! -- Perplexed Cec >> > >> Yes the controller controls the rate of heating (or cooling) to what you >> determine. You decide how long the glass is to be soaked at the target >> temperature. >> >> What you are trying to do with the ramping is to heat the glass >> slowly (under 700 per hour) to the annealing point, and then faster to >> the target fusing/slumping/painting temperature (possibly hold there for >> a while), and then cool rapidly to the annealing temp., hold there a >> while, and control the cooling from there to room temperature. >> So you might have a programme of the following sort: >> (temps in F) >> >> S1 rA=600 Target temp.=1100 soak=0 >> S2 rA=1000 Target temp.=1650 soak 10 mins >> S3 rA=2000 Target temp.=1105 soak 15 mins >> S4 rA=80 Target temp.=1000 soak=0 >> S5 rA=160 Target temp.=900 soak=0 >> S6 rA=600 Target temp.=400 soak=0 >> Alarm 3333 >> Delay=000 >> >> Note: after 400F the kiln cools really slowly, so there is no reason to >> run the controller, unless you are doing really big things, that require >> much slower rates of cooling. >> Most fusing will require about 6 segments. Fusing larger pieces often >> require more segments. Sometimes I wish I had more than 8 possible. >> >> I don't know if I am helping here or making things more difficult. >> >> Steve >> >> -- >> Steve Richard >> Verrier Art Glass Ltd >> s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk > >---- >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com >To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass -- Steve Richard Verrier Art Glass Ltd s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Dec 14 07:22:29 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 14 Dec 2001 07:00:10 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard From: Steve Richard To: Cheryl Parrott Subject: Re: wholesale Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 21:25:32 +0000 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@verrier> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@hotmail.com>> Precedence: bulk This sounds very exciting, Cheryl. One comment you make worries me. And you must check it out before signing contracts, etc. In this paragraph you mention the author of the pattern. If what you are doing is from the pattern book or in significant ways is equivalent, you need to get the author's permission to make a business out of the results of the patterns. Perhaps, a licence agreement between the author and your self could be negotiated. In any case, any contract you sign will almost certainly have a clause requiring you to certify that the work is entirely yours and free from any copyright claims. Once you have checked this out - go for it! >I wholesaled 44 of the snowflakes to a Molbaks a local specialty shop here >in the Seattle area. In three weeks 41 of them sold. It has been pretty >exciting. Especially considering that Maltby Stained Glass owned by the >author of the snowflake pattern books is only ten miles from Molbaks. Steve In message <1970Jan1.000.0@hotmail.com>, Cheryl Parrott writes >I have found myself in an exciting position of possiblly having thousands of >dollars worth of wholesale orders for stained glass items I have created. A >shop owner of a very elite store in the Fashion Show Mall in Las Vegas is >interested in my pieces. She will be calling me tomorrow. My sister lives >in Las Vegas and was talking to the shop owner last week and had mentioned >my pieces and how well they had been selling in the Seattle area. The shop >owner asked to see some of my work so...today my sis took some of my work in >for her to see. Apparently the shop owner fell in love with everything. >These are not cheap pieces. I have a beautiful line of boxes with >decorative solder work. I have never seen anyone do the type of pieces I am >selling. In addition to that I have several very large snowflakes which I >designed. The pieces sell between $84 and $250. > >I wholesaled 44 of the snowflakes to a Molbaks a local specialty shop here >in the Seattle area. In three weeks 41 of them sold. It has been pretty >exciting. Especially considering that Maltby Stained Glass owned by the >author of the snowflake pattern books is only ten miles from Molbaks. > >The owner of the Las Vegas store will be calling tomorrow. She wants to >have an exclusive for Las Vegas. Has anyone dealt with wholesale orders and >exclusives. Typically how much should I ask for as a down payment? What >should the exclusive entail? > >the next question... piece work. I am going to need help. How do you go >about getting someone to help. I would like someone to do all the copper >foiling. Someone to do the cleaning and polishing.. etc. > >Also, does anyone have a rep to help sell their pieces? I'd love some >input on that too! > >This has been an exciting month watching my glass fly out of the store and >now to have an exclusive shop with a lot of potential interested in my >pieces. I started to cry today when I got the call. > >I'd love all your input and advice. > >Thanks, >Cheryl Parrott >The Glass Parrott > > >_________________________________________________________________ >Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com > >---- >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com >To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass -- Steve Richard Verrier Art Glass Ltd s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Dec 14 07:31:33 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 14 Dec 2001 07:20:50 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles From: "Christie A. Wood" To: Bungi Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: christmas ornament ideas Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 09:19:22 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com> Precedence: bulk Message text written by "Larry ." >I have made them holly leaves with glass bead berries... and I've made them = Christmas balls from stained glass... Does anyone have any really cute and fairly simple ornament patterns?< Cut out small circles in various cathedral colored glass, and acid etch angels into them. Circle with wide copper foil. Glue a jewelry cap on t= op & thread that with fishing line. Voila...stained glass ornament. Christie A. Wood Art Glass Ensembles Denton, TX ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Dec 14 08:06:45 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 14 Dec 2001 07:34:41 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: doorpi.net!mmam5 From: mmam5@doorpi.net To: cecnralph@home.com Content-Type: text/plain Subject: Re: Patterns Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 10:00:25 EST Message-ID: <200112141500.fBEF0U276034@mail2.netacc.net> Precedence: bulk Ok - I see what you're saying. Thanks Cec and Elizabeth! This is a pattern that someone else (studio) may/may not be making. It goes along with the 3'x4' panel I was asking about shipping previously. They're still building the home, so there is time to decide which way they'd like to go. Locally made or far away and shipped. . . I'm really enjoying this wonderful group of people and all your ideas and input! Thanks bunches! Marci Martin Designs <<< Marci - you have really answered your own question here! :-) Work out how long it takes to do by timing yourself and charge them your usual hourly rate plus a 'profit' for the design idea. EliZabeth in Bournemouth>>>>> <<<< Cecily & Ralph Wood wrote: Depends. Do you intend to keep the copyright and rights to reuse the design? Or are you selling them all rights to use the design not just one or more windows but for them to turn around and sell the design? You need to be careful how you word the "sale". If you intend to keep the rights to the design, then you are charging them a fee for designing, you are not sellling the design. . . - Cec>>>> > Marci wrote: > > > ha ha - -I guess I should be more specific - I have someone > who wants to > > commission just a pattern for a full size window. I like sharing > patterns ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Dec 14 12:31:25 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 14 Dec 2001 12:10:11 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: hotmail.com!theglassparrott From: "Cheryl Parrott" To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed Subject: wholesale Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 10:01:50 -0800 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@hotmail.com> Precedence: bulk thank you all for your input regarding the wholesale orders plus all your kudos! Christie, I deleted my inbox by mistake. Were you the one who has the rep? I have questions regarding a rep and piece work. Cheryl _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Dec 14 19:56:28 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 14 Dec 2001 19:33:35 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: doorpi.net!mmam5 From: "Marci" To: Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Re: christmas ornament ideas Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 21:27:08 -0600 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@doorpi.net> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>> Precedence: bulk They sound really pretty! Marci ----- Original Message ----- From: "Sherry Greer" To: ; Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2001 8:59 PM Subject: Re: christmas ornament ideas > I've been using irridescent clear crackle glass and freehanding icicle > ornaments. You get a ton out of a craft size sheet of glass. I've > just been grinding the edges smooth and leaving them unfoiled, and then > wrapping decorative jewelry wire around the top as the hanger (with a > spiral or curly q or two). Very quick and cheap. I plan to sell mine > at a craft sale Saturday. Will let you all know how they go over! At > least I finally found a use for that coated copper jewelry wire that > doesn't solder! > Sherry > > > ===== > Sherry Greer > texpenguin@yahoo.com > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Check out Yahoo! Shopping and Yahoo! Auctions for all of > your unique holiday gifts! Buy at http://shopping.yahoo.com > or bid at http://auctions.yahoo.com > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Dec 15 06:03:26 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 05:42:07 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: prodigy.net!jcrites102830 From: "jcrites" To: Content-Type: multipart/alternative; Subject: Gatewayed mail message Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 07:36:27 -0600 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@prodigy.net> Organization: Prodigy Internet Precedence: bulk This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_010E_01C1853B.344B4F80 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable ------=_NextPart_000_010E_01C1853B.344B4F80 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
 
------=_NextPart_000_010E_01C1853B.344B4F80-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Dec 15 06:16:52 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 06:02:25 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: prodigy.net!jcrites102830 From: "jcrites" To: Content-Type: multipart/alternative; Subject: Gatewayed mail message Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 07:35:49 -0600 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@prodigy.net> Organization: Prodigy Internet Precedence: bulk This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0103_01C1853B.1E4222E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable ------=_NextPart_000_0103_01C1853B.1E4222E0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
 
------=_NextPart_000_0103_01C1853B.1E4222E0-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Dec 16 05:31:05 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 16 Dec 2001 05:22:43 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: prodigy.net!jcrites102830 From: "jcrites" To: Content-Type: multipart/alternative; Subject: Gatewayed mail message Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2001 07:22:39 -0600 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@prodigy.net> Organization: Prodigy Internet Precedence: bulk This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0064_01C18602.7146B380 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable ------=_NextPart_000_0064_01C18602.7146B380 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
 
------=_NextPart_000_0064_01C18602.7146B380-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Dec 17 01:32:18 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 17 Dec 2001 01:16:05 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: writingmachine.com!ClaireF From: Claire Fuller To: "'glass@bungi.com'" Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Acid etching Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 09:06:03 -0000 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@writingmachine.com> Precedence: bulk In a recent email about Christmas ornaments Christie mentioned acid etching. Can anyone (or Christie) explain more about what that is and how to do it? Thanks Claire Claire Fuller Writing Machine Tel: 01962841250 Fax: 01962 870558 www.writingmachine.com _____________________________________________________________________ This message has been checked for all known viruses by Star Internet delivered through the MessageLabs Virus Scanning Service. For further information visit http://www.star.net.uk/stats.asp or alternatively call Star Internet for details on the Virus Scanning Service. ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Dec 17 03:49:55 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 17 Dec 2001 03:34:58 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: worldnet.att.net!debbiejo From: "debbie taylor" To: Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: subscribe Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2001 22:57:30 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@worldnet.att.net> Precedence: bulk ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Dec 17 04:40:23 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 17 Dec 2001 04:01:32 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: worldnet.att.net!debbiejo From: "debbie taylor" To: "Bungi" Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: for sale Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2001 22:58:10 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@worldnet.att.net> Precedence: bulk hi everyone i have a minor torch with hoses and regulators for sale for $250 i have not used it very much ... and have to move into an apartment, so i need to sell it i will take check, money order, visa or mastercard ... please let me know thank debbie debbiejo@worldnet.att.net ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Dec 17 07:47:04 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 17 Dec 2001 07:31:40 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: earthlink.net!meyer64 From: "Meyer" To: Subject: test Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 05:52:30 -0800 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@earthlink.net> Precedence: bulk ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Dec 17 09:52:34 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 17 Dec 2001 09:33:28 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles From: "Christie A. Wood" To: Bungi Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Acid etching Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 10:15:07 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com> Precedence: bulk Message text written by Claire Fuller >In a recent email about Christmas ornaments Christie mentioned acid etching. Can anyone (or Christie) explain more about what that is and how to do it= ?< It's SOOOOO EASY. Purchase a small bottle of Acid-Etch or Etch-All cream from your local stained glass retail supplier. Print out a nice design onto some sort of contact paper or label paper. I use full-page white label paper which can be used in my deskjet printer. Then remove the backing from the paper, put it onto the glass, and carefully cut out the design using a very sharp exacto-type knife. Follow the instructions on the etching cream (except I always leave it on for 3 minutes instead of the 1 in order to ensure a good smooth etch). When you rinse off the etching cream, the water will soften up the label paper, which will just peel off. Voila! Etched glass. Christie A. Wood Art Glass Ensembles Denton, TX ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Dec 17 15:16:04 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 17 Dec 2001 15:10:33 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: doorpi.net!mmam5 From: mmam5@doorpi.net To: Ensembles@compuserve.com Content-Type: text/plain Subject: Re: Acid etching Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 16:16:25 EST Message-ID: <200112172116.fBHLGUs03334@mail1.netacc.net> Precedence: bulk WOW - that is easy!! On Mon, 17 Dec 2001 10:15:07 -0500 "Christie A. Wood" wrote: > Message text written by Claire Fuller > >In a recent email about Christmas ornaments Christie mentioned > acid > etching. > Can anyone (or Christie) explain more about what that is and how > to do it= > ?< > > It's SOOOOO EASY. Purchase a small bottle of > Acid-Etch or Etch-All cream from your local stained > glass retail supplier. Print out a nice design onto > some sort of contact paper or label paper. I use > full-page white label paper which can be used in > my deskjet printer. Then remove the backing from > the paper, put it onto the glass, and carefully cut out > the design using a very sharp exacto-type knife. > Follow the instructions on the etching cream (except > I always leave it on for 3 minutes instead of the 1 in > order to ensure a good smooth etch). When you > rinse off the etching cream, the water will soften up > the label paper, which will just peel off. Voila! > Etched glass. > > Christie A. Wood > Art Glass Ensembles > Denton, TX > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Dec 17 20:32:12 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 17 Dec 2001 20:11:59 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: home.com!cecnralph From: Cecily & Ralph Wood To: Bungi Glass Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Subject: Re: Acid etching Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 18:57:20 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com> References: <<200112172116.fBHLGUs03334@mail1.netacc.net>> Organization: Grendel Studio Precedence: bulk But do be careful - they are made to be easy to use, but they are still strong chemicals. Protect yourself, and don't let kids play with it. - Cec mmam5@doorpi.net wrote: > WOW - that is easy!! > > On Mon, 17 Dec 2001 10:15:07 -0500 "Christie A. Wood" wrote: > > > Message text written by Claire Fuller > > >In a recent email about Christmas ornaments Christie mentioned > > acid > > etching. > > Can anyone (or Christie) explain more about what that is and how > > to do it= > > ?< > > > > It's SOOOOO EASY. Purchase a small bottle of > > Acid-Etch or Etch-All cream from your local stained > > glass retail supplier. Print out a nice design onto > > some sort of contact paper or label paper. I use > > full-page white label paper which can be used in > > my deskjet printer. Then remove the backing from > > the paper, put it onto the glass, and carefully cut out > > the design using a very sharp exacto-type knife. > > Follow the instructions on the etching cream (except > > I always leave it on for 3 minutes instead of the 1 in > > order to ensure a good smooth etch). When you > > rinse off the etching cream, the water will soften up > > the label paper, which will just peel off. Voila! > > Etched glass. > > > > Christie A. Wood > > Art Glass Ensembles > > Denton, TX > > ---- > > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Dec 18 07:21:31 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 18 Dec 2001 07:06:07 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles From: "Christie A. Wood" To: Bungi Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Re: Acid etching Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 09:58:12 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com> Precedence: bulk Message text written by INTERNET:Bubstah@aol.com >I too use acid etching cream but instead of washing it down the drain, I= = scrape the excess off with an old credit card and put it back into the ja= r, then I wash off the rest that is left on the glass before removing the = contact paper. The etch cream is too expensive to wash away when it is = perfectly reusable. Hope this is helpful to you.< I do the same thing. Christie A. Wood Art Glass Ensembles Denton, TX ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Dec 18 11:31:10 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 18 Dec 2001 11:14:24 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: aol.com!Beveler4 From: Beveler4@aol.com To: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Subject: Re: Acid etching Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 14:12:07 EST Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com> Precedence: bulk Just one more thing about acid etching,DON'T expect great results you cannot get a deep etch by leaving the cream on longer and you will only get a very light surface etch if thats what you are looking for that's great if you are looking for deeper etch you'll have to go to sandblasting for a better result and shading and 3-d. Stan Beveler's Glass Studio Cinti Ohio ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Dec 18 13:30:45 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 18 Dec 2001 13:19:21 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard From: Steve Richard To: Claire Fuller Subject: Re: Acid etching Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 09:23:25 +0000 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@verrier> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@writingmachine.com>> Precedence: bulk There is an article in a past issue of IGGA Newsletter that tells you in some detail of etching with liquid hydrofluoric acid Acid paste is a little less dangerous, but follows the same principles. Steve In message <1970Jan1.000.0@writingmachine.com>, Claire Fuller writes >In a recent email about Christmas ornaments Christie mentioned acid etching. >Can anyone (or Christie) explain more about what that is and how to do it? > >Thanks > >Claire > >Claire Fuller >Writing Machine >Tel: 01962841250 >Fax: 01962 870558 >www.writingmachine.com > > >_____________________________________________________________________ >This message has been checked for all known viruses by Star Internet >delivered through the MessageLabs Virus Scanning Service. For further >information visit http://www.star.net.uk/stats.asp or alternatively call >Star Internet for details on the Virus Scanning Service. >---- >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com >To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass -- Steve Richard Verrier Art Glass Ltd s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Dec 18 15:00:40 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 18 Dec 2001 14:55:30 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard From: Steve Richard To: john & kay Subject: Re: Light Boxes Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 18:18:30 +0000 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@verrier> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@horsfieldwatford.demon.co.uk>> Precedence: bulk I don't know if anyone has replied to you directly, but I haven't seen anything on the bungi list. Somewhere in the archives are a few good messages on building a light box. It will be difficult to find though. The principles are simple. You want to confine the light in white space with a strong translucent top. You can make a box without a top, fasten the fluorescent tube holders (as much wattage as you can get into the space) into base of the box (which you should paint matt white) and cover with 60% obscuring perspex topped with 4mm window glass. These should be fastened so that you can get into the box to change the tubes. Oh yes, you need ventilation holes in the box to allow any heat to escape. The 4mm glass is needed to provide an unyeilding surface for cutting, the white perspex ensures an even distribution of light. You can make the box as large as you want, but 610 by 610mm is probably a practical maximum. Steve In message <1970Jan1.000.0@horsfieldwatford.demon.co.uk>, john & kay writes >Hi >Just to introduce myself. > >My name is john Horsfield from Watford UK and i have just joined the list. > >I want to make a light box and wonder if anyone has any advice, >specifications or templates. > >Thanks > >---- >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com >To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass -- Steve Richard Verrier Art Glass Ltd s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Dec 21 09:01:25 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 21 Dec 2001 08:53:18 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: woh.rr.com!arasai From: "Sarah" To: Subject: NG: Nice Quote Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 10:22:39 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@woh.rr.com> Precedence: bulk A friend sent this to me, and I wanted to share it. She didn't know who the quote is from. A man who works with his hands is a laborer, A man who works with his hands and head is a craftsman, A man who works with his hands, head, and heart is an artist! Merry Christmas to all! Sarah ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Dec 21 10:00:53 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 21 Dec 2001 09:31:59 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: aol.com!UserDusty From: UserDusty@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Subject: Re: Quote Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 12:13:21 EST Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com> Precedence: bulk Hi all, I agree Sarah. My wife and I just want to wish all of you a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year. Thanks for all your help, Ken O. Decorative Glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Dec 21 12:00:53 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 21 Dec 2001 11:39:15 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: gjr From: gjr@bungi.com (Glenna Rand) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Christmas Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 11:38:19 PST Message-ID: Precedence: bulk Aloha, Mele Kalikimaka e Hau'oli Makahiki Hou! (Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!) -- Glenna Rand gjr@bungi.com ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Dec 22 11:22:25 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sat, 22 Dec 2001 11:12:40 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: home.com!lorley From: Lorley Oneyear To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: multipart/mixed; x-avg-checked=avg-ok-45B65962; boundary="=======4B1A4C80=======" Subject: business card holder Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 10:49:34 -0700 Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20011222104720.00acf8e0@mail> Precedence: bulk --=======4B1A4C80======= Content-Type: text/plain; x-avg-checked=avg-ok-45B65962; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Anyone out there that has made business card holders, how do you finish the bottom of the holder? Do you just leave it and flat solder the bottom glass or do you glue felt on it or put rubber bumpers in the corners??? Does the plain glass scratch desk tops? --=======4B1A4C80=======-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Dec 22 12:22:37 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sat, 22 Dec 2001 12:15:30 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: hotmail.com!createglass From: "Larry ." To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed Subject: Many Thanks! Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 19:06:52 +0000 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@hotmail.com> Precedence: bulk I realized I was negligent in thanking ALL of you that provided me with so many great ideas for Holiday ornaments. I'm spending the weekend with my family, and they love their annual holiday ornaments. Thanks for the many great ideas... I'll have ornament ideas for many holidays to come! Happy holidays, all! Larry _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Dec 22 13:26:17 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sat, 22 Dec 2001 13:03:16 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: attbi.com!byronw26 From: "Byron Wells" To: Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Re: Christmas Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 08:51:06 -0600 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@attbi.com> References: <> Precedence: bulk Same back at ya Glenna... Hope everyone here has a safe and happy holiday season... Byron... Wells Glassworks ----- Original Message ----- From: "Glenna Rand" To: Sent: Friday, December 21, 2001 1:38 PM Subject: Christmas > > Aloha, > > Mele Kalikimaka e Hau'oli Makahiki Hou! > > (Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!) > > > -- > Glenna Rand > gjr@bungi.com > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Dec 22 16:03:02 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sat, 22 Dec 2001 15:31:46 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: home.com!esavad From: "Mike Savad" To: "Lorley Oneyear" , Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: RE: business card holder Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 16:46:56 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com> References: <<5.1.0.14.2.20011222104720.00acf8e0@mail>> Precedence: bulk i will finish the bottom. i'll use sticky felt. or perferably rubber. dots or sheets (sheets can be found at home depot in the rope and wire section). the holder will slide around a bit when people pick use it, the rubber should hold it in place. ---Mike Savad -----Original Message----- From: Lorley Oneyear [mailto:lorley@home.com] Sent: Saturday, December 22, 2001 12:50 PM To: glass@bungi.com Subject: business card holder Anyone out there that has made business card holders, how do you finish the bottom of the holder? Do you just leave it and flat solder the bottom glass or do you glue felt on it or put rubber bumpers in the corners??? Does the plain glass scratch desk tops? ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Dec 22 16:30:57 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sat, 22 Dec 2001 16:23:54 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: home.com!bobfuses From: "Bob Duchesneau" To: "Lorley Oneyear" , Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Re: business card holder Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 13:04:27 -0800 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com> References: <<5.1.0.14.2.20011222104720.00acf8e0@mail>> Precedence: bulk >> Anyone out there that has made business card holders, how do you finish the bottom of the holder? Do you just leave it and flat solder the bottom glass or do you glue felt on it or put rubber bumpers in the corners??? Does the plain glass scratch desk tops?<< Something is necessary to prevent scratching. I like rubber bumpers. Felt would be OK but the rubber feet make it non slip. Bob in 92026 ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Dec 23 04:02:11 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 23 Dec 2001 03:45:12 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: aol.com!UserDusty From: UserDusty@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Subject: Re: Business Card Holders Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001 06:39:41 EST Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com> Precedence: bulk Hi All, When I make my business card holders I also use the rubber bumpers. Felt slides around to much. Another thing if I'm just butting the corners together I'll cut a piece of wire or use ball chain in the outside corners. Using the wire I require less solder or using the ball chain I get I get a decorative edge. Have a Merry Christmas, Ken O Decorative Glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Dec 23 08:03:57 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 23 Dec 2001 07:31:36 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: home.com!cecnralph From: Cecily & Ralph Wood To: Bungi Glass Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Subject: Re: business card holder Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001 09:39:49 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com> References: <<5.1.0.14.2.20011222104720.00acf8e0@mail>> Organization: Grendel Studio Precedence: bulk The day will come when that thingy just HAS to be washed. Soggy felt that takes forever to dry - eeeaaaauuuuuuuuuwww. - Cec Lorley Oneyear wrote: > Anyone out there that has made business card holders, how do you finish the > bottom of the holder? Do you just leave it and flat solder the bottom glass > or do you glue felt on it or put rubber bumpers in the corners??? Does the > plain glass scratch desk tops? ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Dec 23 10:36:02 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 23 Dec 2001 10:20:51 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: home.com!lorley From: Lorley Oneyear To: UserDusty@aol.com,glass@bungi.com Content-Type: multipart/mixed; x-avg-checked=avg-ok-2D4D4604; boundary="=======5FB0186D=======" Subject: Re: Business Card Holders Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001 11:16:11 -0700 Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20011223111528.02dca2c0@mail> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>> Precedence: bulk --=======5FB0186D======= Content-Type: multipart/alternative; x-avg-checked=avg-ok-2D4D4604; boundary="=====================_8863880==_.ALT" --=====================_8863880==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; x-avg-checked=avg-ok-2D4D4604; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Do you use any other glue than the self sticking glue that is already on the rubber bumbers? Lorley/Phoenix At 06:39 AM 12/23/2001 -0500, UserDusty@aol.com wrote: >Hi All, > >When I make my business card holders I also use the rubber bumpers. Felt >slides around to much. Another thing if I'm just butting the corners >together I'll cut a piece of wire or use ball chain in the outside corners. >Using the wire I require less solder or using the ball chain I get I get a >decorative edge. > >Have a Merry Christmas, > >Ken O >Decorative Glass >---- >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com >To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > > >--- >Incoming mail is certified Virus Free. >Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). >Version: 6.0.307 / Virus Database: 168 - Release Date: 12/11/2001 --=====================_8863880==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; x-avg-checked=avg-ok-2D4D4604; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Do you use any other glue than the self sticking glue that is already on the rubber bumbers? Lorley/Phoenix





At 06:39 AM 12/23/2001 -0500, UserDusty@aol.com wrote:

Hi All,

When I make my business card holders I also use the rubber bumpers.  Felt
slides around to much.  Another thing if I'm just butting the corners
together I'll cut a piece of wire or use ball chain in the outside corners.
Using the wire I require less solder or using the ball chain I get I get a
decorative edge.

Have a Merry Christmas,

Ken O
Decorative Glass
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


---
Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.307 / Virus Database: 168 - Release Date: 12/11/2001

--=====================_8863880==_.ALT-- --=======5FB0186D=======-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Dec 23 15:03:27 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 23 Dec 2001 14:46:12 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: hotmail.com!glassharpgallery From: "Susan Hood" To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed Subject: Gatewayed mail message Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001 18:08:20 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@hotmail.com> Precedence: bulk Has anyone got patterns for picture frames of stained glass? Is there a book out on them? I have a student who wants to make some. Thanks, Susan Hood _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Dec 26 08:59:58 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 26 Dec 2001 08:53:17 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: doorpi.net!mmam5 From: "Marci" To: Content-Type: multipart/alternative; Subject: Happy Holidays Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2001 10:47:20 -0600 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@doorpi.net> Precedence: bulk This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0022_01C18DFA.B1A05620 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I hope all of you had a fantastic holiday! Not sure about the rest of you, but my fingers are so sore from putting = together Lego Kits, Matchbox track and barbie stuff, that it's going to = be a chore to get any foiling done today! Have a happy New Year and we'll be chatting with ya'll soon!! Marci Martin Designs ------=_NextPart_000_0022_01C18DFA.B1A05620 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I hope all of you had a fantastic=20 holiday!
 
Not sure about the rest of you, but my = fingers are=20 so sore from putting together Lego Kits, Matchbox track and barbie = stuff, that=20 it's going to be a chore to get any foiling done today!
 
Have a happy New Year and we'll be = chatting with=20 ya'll soon!!
 
Marci
Martin = Designs
------=_NextPart_000_0022_01C18DFA.B1A05620-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Jan 4 12:20:52 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 4 Jan 2002 11:52:55 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: aol.com!UserDusty From: UserDusty@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Subject: Re: Ghost Town Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 19:19:26 EST Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com> Precedence: bulk Hi All, Where are all the Bungi People at? I feel like I'm in a ghost town. I hope everyone had a happy and safe New Year. Ken O. ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Jan 4 16:29:08 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 4 Jan 2002 13:49:11 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: aol.com!Shecharlie From: Shecharlie@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_ba.1f1495f2.296659d0_boundary" Subject: does this site still exist? Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 20:05:20 EST Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com> Precedence: bulk --part1_ba.1f1495f2.296659d0_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit how come its been so quiet. no questions and answers since before the new year. of well-happy new year sheila --part1_ba.1f1495f2.296659d0_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit how come its been so quiet. no questions and answers since before the new year.
of well-happy new year
sheila --part1_ba.1f1495f2.296659d0_boundary-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Jan 4 16:30:34 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 4 Jan 2002 14:12:04 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: home.com!gunnx4 From: Suzanne Gunn To: UserDusty@aol.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: Re: Ghost Town Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2002 14:37:55 -0600 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>> Organization: glassdancer Precedence: bulk Trying to get motivated to clean up my studio and get some work done. Happy New Year~! :o) Suzanne UserDusty@aol.com wrote: > > Hi All, > > Where are all the Bungi People at? I feel like I'm in a ghost town. I hope > everyone had a happy and safe New Year. > > Ken O. > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Jan 4 18:02:40 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 4 Jan 2002 17:51:45 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: doorpi.net!mmam5 From: mmam5@doorpi.net To: UserDusty@aol.com Content-Type: text/plain Subject: Re: Ghost Town Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2002 17:49:10 EST Message-ID: <200201042249.g04MnFa21550@mail2.netacc.net> Precedence: bulk Thanks Ken! I thought maybe it was just me! Maybe we're all winding down from the holidays. . . Our Holiday up here in Wisconsin was nice - just a bit of snow and not too cold! Santa thought we were all very good kids! Working on a couple of stained glass projects. . .but missing the banter between the group! Take care! Marci Martin Designs www.mmartindesigns.com On Wed, 2 Jan 2002 19:19:26 EST UserDusty@aol.com wrote: > Hi All, > > Where are all the Bungi People at? I feel like I'm in a ghost > town. I hope > everyone had a happy and safe New Year. > > Ken O. > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Jan 4 20:28:33 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 4 Jan 2002 20:21:31 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: yahoo.com!milana12351 From: milana12351@yahoo.com To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary=6014664.1009912159340.JavaMail.Default.cb464714-a Subject: Furnished Office For Rent (close to O'Hare) Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2002 13:09:19 -0600 (CST) Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com> Precedence: bulk --6014664.1009912159340.JavaMail.Default.cb464714-a Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Furnished office for rent. Bensenville, IL, close to O'Hare, I-290. Over 650 sq ft. Professional building. Main level access. Plenty of free parking. Centrail air and heating with indoor thermostat. Large windows. $675/month includes utilities (heating, water, A/C) except electricity for lighting and outlets. Fully wired and hooked up to the Internet (512 Kbps symmetrical). Please, schedule an appointment or contact us for a floor plan fax: 253-663-3690 email: offices_for_rent@yahoo.com --6014664.1009912159340.JavaMail.Default.cb464714-a-- _________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Jan 5 00:31:59 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sat, 5 Jan 2002 00:17:30 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: ptd.net!pikachu6 From: "pikachu6" To: Content-Type: multipart/alternative; Subject: re: ghost town Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 23:23:28 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@ptd.net> Precedence: bulk This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0018_01C19576.D09834C0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Been working hard on new projects, hoping to place suncatchers in local = mall. Wish me luck. Miss C ------=_NextPart_000_0018_01C19576.D09834C0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Been working hard on new projects, hoping to place = suncatchers=20 in local mall.  Wish me luck. Miss C
------=_NextPart_000_0018_01C19576.D09834C0-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Jan 5 02:00:51 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sat, 5 Jan 2002 01:57:17 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: yahoo.com!agacic From: Alex Gacic To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: Glass blowing Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 18:48:43 -0800 (PST) Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com> Precedence: bulk Hi Everyone I'm a stained glass hobbyist, and it seems the friends I gave small copper foil gifts to, really appreciated them. It's nice to make something unique and specific to a particular person. I don't have a lot of money or time, but I sure would like to try out and experiment with glass blowing. Is a local studio the only way to get started with glass blowing? Unfortunately there are no glass blowers within my driving range. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks and hope everyone has a great year. Alex Gacic Shalimar, Florida __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail! http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/ ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Jan 5 16:02:37 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sat, 5 Jan 2002 15:44:10 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: home.com!cecnralph From: Cecily & Ralph Wood To: Bungi Glass Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Subject: full spectrum lights Date: Sat, 05 Jan 2002 16:07:44 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com> Organization: Grendel Studio Precedence: bulk Some time ago (years?) we had a discussion about light sources, and when I suggested grow lights I was batted down good, and made to understand they lacked quite a bit. Ott lights were suggested. You can now buy Ott lights (JoAnn's shops and other crafts places) - especially the desktop kinds, and I have one and it is nice - but expensive. A floor light from Ott costs around $150m but they are hard to find, as are the long fluorescent ones for ordinary shop lights. There is a new "full spectrum" light out that is being promoted fairly heavily, and its floor light costs about $130. Not a lot less money, but maybe it will be easier to acquire. The desk ones are about the same price as the Ott. Those of you who are really knowedgable about lighting - is it comprable? They are called Easy-Eye Lamps and the bulb itself is sort of a 4 pronged fluorescent thingy, and they, too, promise long life and cool bulbs (which I take it go together). - ever curious - Cec ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Jan 5 17:32:56 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sat, 5 Jan 2002 17:15:40 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: home.com!bobfuses From: "Bob Duchesneau" To: "Alex Gacic" , Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Re: Glass blowing Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2002 07:44:59 -0800 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>> Precedence: bulk >>I don't have a lot of money or time, but I sure would like to try out and experiment with glass blowing. Is a local studio the only way to get started with glass blowing? Unfortunately there are no glass blowers within my driving range. Any advice would be appreciated.<< You might try your hand at blowing small Pyrex glass pieces as sometimes seen at fairs. The entry cost is small. Most libraries will have a book or three on the subject. Bob in 92026 ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Jan 5 17:49:03 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sat, 5 Jan 2002 17:33:25 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: attbi.com!byronw26 From: "Byron Wells" To: Content-Type: multipart/alternative; Subject: Re: does this site still exist? Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2002 08:26:53 -0600 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@attbi.com> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>> Precedence: bulk This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0016_01C195C2.BB2A7340 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hey Sheila... Things always get quiet this time of year on the lists... Everyone works = so hard all year long they just fall out after xmas from exhaustion I = think... I stay busy year round so I am never around much but others do = a lot of gift type items and rush to get orders filled and are just wore = out... Byron... Wells Glassworks ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Shecharlie@aol.com=20 To: glass@bungi.com=20 Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2002 7:05 PM Subject: does this site still exist? how come its been so quiet. no questions and answers since before the = new year.=20 of well-happy new year=20 sheila=20 ------=_NextPart_000_0016_01C195C2.BB2A7340 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hey Sheila...
 
Things always get quiet this time of = year on the=20 lists... Everyone works so hard all year long they just fall out after = xmas from=20 exhaustion I think... I stay busy year round so I am never around much = but=20 others do a lot of gift type items and rush to get orders filled and are = just=20 wore out...
 
Byron...
Wells = Glassworks
 
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 Shecharlie@aol.com
Sent: Thursday, January 03, = 2002 7:05=20 PM
Subject: does this site still=20 exist?

how come = its been so=20 quiet. no questions and answers since before the new year.
of = well-happy=20 new year
sheila ------=_NextPart_000_0016_01C195C2.BB2A7340-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Jan 6 02:29:14 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 6 Jan 2002 02:01:02 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: stainedglass.co.uk!studio From: "studio@stainedglass.co.uk" To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Subject: Does this site exist? Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 09:52:57 +0000 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@stainedglass.co.uk> Precedence: bulk Surely the best way to 'resurrect' this mail list woould be to raise a glass point or question rather than to just ask 'is anyone there?' or complain there are no messages!! Hope all members had a good Christmas/holiday and are now enjoying getting started on all their new projects for this year. Regards EliZabeth in Bournemouth Bournemouth Stained Glass http://www.stainedglass.co.uk ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Jan 6 03:30:28 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 6 Jan 2002 03:03:01 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: aol.com!UserDusty From: UserDusty@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Subject: Re: Glass Blowing Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 06:01:47 EST Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com> Precedence: bulk Hi all, Nice to see postings again on Bungi. I hope everyone had a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year. In Delphi's catalog there is an item called the Murphy Fire Bucket. It looks like a small glass blowing setup. You might be able to see it on their online catalog. The web address is www.delphiglass.com. You might also try the artglass World site. That address is www.artglassworld.com. Good luck, Ken O. ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Jan 6 10:01:12 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 6 Jan 2002 09:40:24 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: webtv.net!mim111 From: mim111@webtv.net To: Glass@bungi.com Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Subject: angles Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 12:38:23 -0500 (EST) Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@webtv.net> Precedence: bulk Can I cut glass at a 45@ angle and then continue with a straight vertical cut? Can it be done in one piece or does it need to be two? Made a design myself and now wonder if I "goofed" Mary ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Jan 6 12:00:33 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 6 Jan 2002 11:27:43 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: northlights.co.uk!toby From: "Toby" To: "Alex Gacic" Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Re: Glass blowing Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 19:16:28 -0000 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@northlights.co.uk> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>> Precedence: bulk Try and do what I did. I contacted companies that manufacture laboratory glass, glass tubes etc and asked if they run hobbyist's courses. One of them did; one day a week for 6 weeks. I joined and had a great time. We started by blowing pyrex glass, then experimented with all sorts of other glass. It was good fun and not expensive. I'm sure that some enterprising companies in USA do likewise. Have a go! EliSabeth 'n Toby in UK > Hi Everyone > > I'm a stained glass hobbyist, and it seems the friends > I gave small copper foil gifts to, really appreciated > them. It's nice to make something unique and specific > to a particular person. > > I don't have a lot of money or time, but I sure would > like to try out and experiment with glass blowing. Is > a local studio the only way to get started with glass > blowing? Unfortunately there are no glass blowers > within my driving range. Any advice would be > appreciated. > > Thanks and hope everyone has a great year. > > Alex Gacic > Shalimar, Florida > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail! > http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/ > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Jan 6 14:25:07 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 6 Jan 2002 13:33:28 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: home.com!gunnx4 From: Suzanne Gunn To: mim111@webtv.net, glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: Re: angles Date: Sun, 06 Jan 2002 15:30:17 -0600 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@webtv.net>> Organization: glassdancer Precedence: bulk You can do little tricks with lead to make it appear you have a sharper angle than you really have. You can cut the glass with a curve, then lead it in such a way as to look like you have a sharp angle. This way you have less chance of the glass breaking. Suzanne mim111@webtv.net wrote: > > Can I cut glass at a 45@ angle and then continue with a straight > vertical cut? Can it be done in one piece or does it need to be two? > > Made a design myself and now wonder if I "goofed" > > Mary > > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Jan 6 15:30:45 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 6 Jan 2002 15:25:48 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: home.com!esavad From: "Mike Savad" To: , Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: RE: angles Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 16:53:41 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@webtv.net>> Precedence: bulk it depends on how small a piece it is. the most likely result is that the glass will not break were you want it. plus if it does, it would probably break in the corner anyway... a band saw would work though. ---Mike Savad -----Original Message----- From: mim111@webtv.net [mailto:mim111@webtv.net] Sent: Sunday, January 06, 2002 12:38 PM To: Glass@bungi.com Subject: angles Can I cut glass at a 45@ angle and then continue with a straight vertical cut? Can it be done in one piece or does it need to be two? Made a design myself and now wonder if I "goofed" Mary ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Jan 6 16:30:34 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 6 Jan 2002 16:21:10 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: ct2.nai.net!shad From: Family Account To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: Ghost list Date: Sun, 06 Jan 2002 19:19:24 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@ct2.nai.net> Precedence: bulk Heck, I've done my best to be comatose since Christmas...but it ain't working. I delivered two panels just before Christmas, have one to finish, just sold something out of stock, am trying to get on inventory....and my business computer just went down. You know, the one with the Access program I've been working on to handle inventory. We should know the damage on that by tomorrow. (We know the hard drive is okay, thank goodness!) And yeah, the files are backed up as Excel files, but Access queries, etc were still works-in-progress. Ah, well....Anyone have any good ideas for on octagon window that I hope to display at a little local art show? I'm not feeling too creative right now and I need to draw up an original design. And yesterday was just a loss, since it was the day of the UConn-Tennessee women's basketball game. Regular life pretty much stops around here on that day. Dorothy in Connecticut ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Jan 6 16:54:42 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 6 Jan 2002 16:46:58 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: northlights.co.uk!toby From: "Toby" To: Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Re: Ghost Town Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 19:19:36 -0000 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@northlights.co.uk> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>> Precedence: bulk .......working hard on commissions, getting the house back together again (after a fire in the summer), cleaning smoke damaged books (7 crates left), looking after Toby 'n Meric and teaching..... EliSabeth 'n Toby in UK > Hi All, > > Where are all the Bungi People at? I feel like I'm in a ghost town. I hope > everyone had a happy and safe New Year. > > Ken O. > ---- > > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Jan 6 17:30:37 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 6 Jan 2002 17:07:18 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: neb.rr.com!Marilyn From: "Marilyn Peterson" To: Content-Type: multipart/alternative; Subject: Assistance Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 11:40:36 -0600 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@neb.rr.com> Precedence: bulk This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0014_01C196A6.F5334500 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable First I want to thank all of you for the valuable assistance I have = gained from this group over the last two years. I received a Worden = form and pattern for a Christmas present. This is something I've not = tried before and am wondering if members can offer some advice and = lessons learned. Thank you. =20 ------=_NextPart_000_0014_01C196A6.F5334500 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
First I want to thank all of you for = the valuable=20 assistance I have gained from this group over the last two years.  = I=20 received a Worden form and pattern for a Christmas present.  = This is=20 something I've not tried before and am wondering if members can offer = some=20 advice and lessons learned.  Thank you.  =
------=_NextPart_000_0014_01C196A6.F5334500-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Jan 6 19:44:50 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 6 Jan 2002 18:36:16 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: tsn.cc!pauls From: paul s To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Subject: Glass Grinders... Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2002 13:32:15 +1100 Message-ID: <5.0.2.1.0.20020107132854.009f4cd0@mail.tsn.cc> Precedence: bulk Hi Everyone, I am contemplating buying a glass grinder and down here in australia, they are quite expensive, average appears to be around $300......(bearing in mind that our aussie dollar is only worth 50 cents to your US$) I found one on the internet at an australian supplier at around $230, which I assume would be a very basic beginners one. Do you think there is much difference between cheaper and average ones, sure I know you only get what you pay for, but as a beginner, would a cheaper one suffice...? Regards Paul, from Aus....... ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Jan 6 22:03:11 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 6 Jan 2002 21:56:20 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: home.com!gunnx4 From: Suzanne Gunn To: Family Account Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: Re: Ghost list Date: Sun, 06 Jan 2002 19:06:22 -0600 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@ct2.nai.net>> Organization: glassdancer Precedence: bulk Dorothy, Sounds pretty motivated to me. I *have* been comatose since Christmas. I just walk around my studio thinking, "I should be generating some revenue". Or "tomorrow Im gonna clean up in here". Wish the glass fairies would come clean it for me, and then I could find some space to work. Suzanne Family Account wrote: > > Heck, I've done my best to be comatose since Christmas...but it ain't > working. I delivered two panels just before Christmas, have one to > finish, just sold something out of stock, am trying to get on > inventory....and my business computer just went down. You know, the one > with the Access program I've been working on to handle inventory. We > should know the damage on that by tomorrow. (We know the hard drive is > okay, thank goodness!) And yeah, the files are backed up as Excel > files, but Access queries, etc were still works-in-progress. > > Ah, well....Anyone have any good ideas for on octagon window that I hope > to display at a little local art show? I'm not feeling too creative > right now and I need to draw up an original design. > > And yesterday was just a loss, since it was the day of the > UConn-Tennessee women's basketball game. Regular life pretty much stops > around here on that day. > > Dorothy in Connecticut > > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Jan 6 22:26:09 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 6 Jan 2002 22:02:16 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles From: "Christie A. Wood" To: Bungi Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Glass blowing Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 18:46:50 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com> Precedence: bulk Message text written by Alex Gacic >I don't have a lot of money or time, but I sure would like to try out and experiment with glass blowing. Is a local studio the only way to get started with glass blowing? Unfortunately there are no glass blowers within my driving range. Any advice would be appreciated.< Since a local glass-blowing experience is not in the works for you, how about trying your hand at it by attending a workshop? Several places do weekend or week-long workshops to give people a chance to try it out. Christie A. Wood Art Glass Ensembles Denton, TX ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Jan 7 01:28:59 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 7 Jan 2002 01:17:43 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: home.com!esavad From: "Mike Savad" To: "paul s" , Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: RE: Glass Grinders... Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 23:24:51 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com> References: <<5.0.2.1.0.20020107132854.009f4cd0@mail.tsn.cc>> Precedence: bulk the only real difference between models is the surface area and the toys that it comes with it. my Wiz grinder from inland has a surface that's about 6-7" wide. came with a triangle, 3/4 and 1/4 bit, and that's about it. my Wizard has a surface of about 12" or so. came with a saftey shield, a useless magnifing shield, 1", 1/4, and i think a speed bit. along with a few other toys. the motor is the same as far as i know. ---Mike Savad -----Original Message----- From: paul s [mailto:pauls@tsn.cc] Sent: Sunday, January 06, 2002 9:32 PM To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Glass Grinders... Hi Everyone, I am contemplating buying a glass grinder and down here in australia, they are quite expensive, average appears to be around $300......(bearing in mind that our aussie dollar is only worth 50 cents to your US$) I found one on the internet at an australian supplier at around $230, which I assume would be a very basic beginners one. Do you think there is much difference between cheaper and average ones, sure I know you only get what you pay for, but as a beginner, would a cheaper one suffice...? Regards Paul, from Aus....... ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Jan 7 05:00:56 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 7 Jan 2002 04:43:27 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: home.com!cecnralph From: Cecily & Ralph Wood To: paul s , Bungi Glass Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Subject: Re: Glass Grinders... Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2002 07:31:43 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com> References: <<5.0.2.1.0.20020107132854.009f4cd0@mail.tsn.cc>> Organization: Grendel Studio Precedence: bulk I'd avoid Inland. A disk grinder is nice, but by no means necessary, and most regular grinders will be fine and last a long time. If you mostly use came, it may last you a lifetime. If you are relatively new to glass and foiling, it will have a harder life, but my instructor has some grinders that have been thru the classes for years and years - way longer than anyone would expect. - Cec paul s wrote: > Hi Everyone, > > I am contemplating buying a glass grinder and down here in australia, they > are quite expensive, average appears to be around $300......(bearing in > mind that our aussie dollar is only worth 50 cents to your US$) > > I found one on the internet at an australian supplier at around $230, > which I assume would be a very basic beginners one. > > Do you think there is much difference between cheaper and average ones, > sure I know you only get what you pay for, but as a beginner, would a > cheaper one suffice...? > > Regards > Paul, from Aus....... > > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Jan 7 07:31:55 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 7 Jan 2002 07:02:17 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles From: "Christie A. Wood" To: Bungi Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Glass Grinders... Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 09:24:16 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com> Precedence: bulk Message text written by paul s >I found one on the internet at an australian supplier at around $230, = which I assume would be a very basic beginners one. Do you think there is much difference between cheaper and average ones, = sure I know you only get what you pay for, but as a beginner, would a = cheaper one suffice...?< IMHO, starting out with a cheaper model is fine. The more expensive ones= feature faster/better motors (more RPMs) for smoother & faster grinding, plus a larger work surface. But you can do quite well on the cheaper models. Just be careful to not over-fill the water well. Over-filling m= ay cause the water to leak out and down the drive shaft, and into the motor,= causing electrical shorts and shocks when turning the on/off switch (voic= e of experience here). Make sure you clean out your grinder frequently, including cleaning out the inside of the grinder bits so that they go on/off the drive shaft smoothly. If you've been grinding for more than a= n hour, and the water is beginning to feel warm, STOP and change out the water/glass debris. Treat your grinder with respect and it will last a long, long time and be trouble free. Oh yes....just in case no one has ever told you...that water/glass dust debris is NOT to be dumped down the= drain. It will clog up your pipes just like cement. I keep a bucket around and dump the waste water/glass debris into it and let the glass debris settle into the bottom of the bucket before draining off the water= . = When the glass debris gets too much for the bucket, put the slurry into coffee cans (with lids) and place in the solid waste trash. Christie A. Wood Art Glass Ensembles Denton, TX ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Jan 7 08:02:21 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 7 Jan 2002 07:40:57 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: attbi.com!byronw26 From: "Byron Wells" To: Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Re: full spectrum lights Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 09:39:56 -0600 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@attbi.com> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>> Precedence: bulk The prob with grow lights is they give the type of light that's best for growing plants but not the right spectrum for what we need.. Dunno about these Ott lights.. I use daylight and full spectrum tubes in my shoplights.. LOTS of them! Seems the older I get the less I can see... Byron... Wells Glassworks ----- Original Message ----- From: "Cecily & Ralph Wood" To: "Bungi Glass" Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2002 3:07 PM Subject: full spectrum lights > Some time ago (years?) we had a discussion about light sources, and when > I suggested grow lights I was batted down good, and made to understand > they lacked quite a bit. Ott lights were suggested. You can now buy > Ott lights (JoAnn's shops and other crafts places) - especially the > desktop kinds, and I have one and it is nice - but expensive. A floor > light from Ott costs around $150m but they are hard to find, as are the > long fluorescent ones for ordinary shop lights. > > There is a new "full spectrum" light out that is being promoted fairly > heavily, and its floor light costs about $130. Not a lot less money, > but maybe it will be easier to acquire. The desk ones are about the > same price as the Ott. Those of you who are really knowedgable about > lighting - is it comprable? They are called Easy-Eye Lamps and the bulb > itself is sort of a 4 pronged fluorescent thingy, and they, too, promise > long life and cool bulbs (which I take it go together). - ever curious - > Cec > > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Jan 7 08:19:57 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 7 Jan 2002 07:42:04 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: attbi.com!byronw26 From: "Byron Wells" To: Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Glastar Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 09:36:10 -0600 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@attbi.com> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@attbi.com>> Precedence: bulk Hey all... Anyone here using any Glastar upright polishers? I just got a 12" model and was wondering if I can turn the motor around so the wheels turn the opposite way? For years I've used an old Gemstone polisher and the wheels rotate down towards the drip pan and most of the mess goes into the pans... These glastar units rotate so all the mess goes upand all over the place...Any thoughts? I've built a shield to catch some of it but am still not real happy... Byron... Wells Glassworks ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Jan 7 08:31:57 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 7 Jan 2002 08:27:51 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: Corpit.com!dterrill From: Dan Terrill To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: RE: Glastar Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 11:25:59 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@Corpit.com> Precedence: bulk umm, I'm a bit out of my depth here, but can't you just reverse the polarity to the motor to change it's direction? > -----Original Message----- > Anyone here using any Glastar upright polishers? I just got > a 12" model > and was wondering if I can turn the motor around so the > wheels turn the > opposite way? For years I've used an old Gemstone polisher > and the wheels > rotate down towards the drip pan and most of the mess goes > into the pans... > These glastar units rotate so all the mess goes upand all over the > place...Any thoughts? I've built a shield to catch some of it > but am still > not real happy... > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Jan 7 09:02:35 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 7 Jan 2002 08:35:06 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: home.com!cecnralph From: Cecily & Ralph Wood To: Bungi Glass Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Subject: sagging Date: Sun, 06 Jan 2002 12:25:27 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com> Organization: Grendel Studio Precedence: bulk When sagging (glass, not me - I do that anyway), should I coat both sides with devit (borax solution?) Thanks - Cec ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Jan 7 09:32:25 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 7 Jan 2002 09:29:03 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: aol.com!Shecharlie From: Shecharlie@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_28.2026133e.296b2eab_boundary" Subject: problem with glass pulling away from came Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 12:02:35 EST Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com> Precedence: bulk --part1_28.2026133e.296b2eab_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit im having a problem with glass thats pulling away from the came after it is hung for awhile. i have stretched the came and cannot figure out why this is happening and what to do about it. thanks for any help sheila --part1_28.2026133e.296b2eab_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit im having a problem with glass thats pulling away from the came after it is hung for awhile. i have stretched the came and cannot figure out why this is happening and what to do about it.
thanks for any help
sheila --part1_28.2026133e.296b2eab_boundary-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Jan 7 10:36:49 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 7 Jan 2002 09:29:03 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: aol.com!Shecharlie From: Shecharlie@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_28.2026133e.296b2eab_boundary" Subject: problem with glass pulling away from came Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 12:02:35 EST Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com> Precedence: bulk --part1_28.2026133e.296b2eab_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit im having a problem with glass thats pulling away from the came after it is hung for awhile. i have stretched the came and cannot figure out why this is happening and what to do about it. thanks for any help sheila --part1_28.2026133e.296b2eab_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit im having a problem with glass thats pulling away from the came after it is hung for awhile. i have stretched the came and cannot figure out why this is happening and what to do about it.
thanks for any help
sheila --part1_28.2026133e.296b2eab_boundary-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Jan 7 12:01:25 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 7 Jan 2002 11:31:49 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: aol.com!NJDKJD From: NJDKJD@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_140.77aa2c0.296b3f02_boundary" Subject: Yes, it was surely quiet... Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 13:12:18 EST Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com> Precedence: bulk --part1_140.77aa2c0.296b3f02_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I was wondering, too, if I was not getting the right mail, or if Margery, Christy , Ernie.etc. were not on this carrier any longer. I don't get into chat, in fact, I have lost the nights it is open. Hope all is well..and Happy New Year to all...and of course Merry Christmas to those who have Christmas today... Nancy --part1_140.77aa2c0.296b3f02_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I was wondering, too,  if I was not getting the right mail, or if Margery, Christy , Ernie.etc. were not on this carrier any longer.  I don't get into chat, in fact, I have lost the nights it is open.  Hope all is well..and Happy New Year to all...and of course Merry Christmas to those who have Christmas today...
Nancy --part1_140.77aa2c0.296b3f02_boundary-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Jan 7 13:02:56 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 7 Jan 2002 12:37:20 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: aol.com!MMMCAM From: MMMCAM@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Subject: Looking to relocate Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 14:41:09 EST Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com> Precedence: bulk Hello every one! I'm looking to relocate in the New Orleans area. Is anyone familiar with the market there as far as glass is concerned? I just got back from there from my honeymoon and noticed that there aren't many homes there without glass art somewhere in it's adornment. Any feed back would be appreciated! Thanks Melissa in Little Rock ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Jan 7 13:12:52 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 7 Jan 2002 13:01:38 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles From: "Christie A. Wood" To: Bungi Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Octagon window design Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 09:24:05 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com> Precedence: bulk Message text written by Family Account >Ah, well....Anyone have any good ideas for on octagon window that I hope= to display at a little local art show? I'm not feeling too creative right now and I need to draw up an original design.< Why octagon? Is it to be installed somewhere specific, such as a bathroo= m or closet? Most of my designs for independant hanging panels to be sold at galleries= and/or art shows are oval designs. Anyway...bevel clusters of doves or hummingbirds surrounded by leaves & flowers is simple and easy to do. Christie A. Wood Art Glass Ensembles Denton, TX ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Jan 7 13:30:51 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 7 Jan 2002 13:12:20 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles From: "Christie A. Wood" To: Bungi Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: sagging Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 13:32:48 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com> Precedence: bulk Message text written by Cecily & Ralph Wood >When sagging (glass, not me - I do that anyway), should I coat both sides with devit (borax solution?) Thanks - Cec< Only if it's important to have a non-hazy surface on both sides of the sagged item. If you don't really care about one side, then you don't have to use the devit there. Christie A. Wood Art Glass Ensembles Denton, TX ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Jan 7 13:31:23 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 7 Jan 2002 13:01:47 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles From: "Christie A. Wood" To: Bungi Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: problem with glass pulling away from came Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 13:32:49 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com> Precedence: bulk Message text written by INTERNET:Shecharlie@aol.com >im having a problem with glass thats pulling away from the came after it= is = hung for awhile. i have stretched the came and cannot figure out why this= is = happening and what to do about it.< Do you also putty your panel and let it cure for at least a week before hanging it? Christie A. Wood Art Glass Ensembles Denton, TX ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Jan 7 15:14:25 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 7 Jan 2002 15:10:56 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles From: "Christie A. Wood" To: Bungi Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Re: problem with glass pulling away from came Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 18:08:29 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com> Precedence: bulk Message text written by INTERNET:Shecharlie@aol.com >christie i should have been more specific. i'm talking about a round picture = . i do the copper foil method. thanks for your help. sheila< If you're doing the copper foil method, then you are not using came at al= l. Unless you are framing your round copper-foiled panel inside some came. = If that's the case, my question is still the same. Are you puttying the came? What type of "came" are you using? Lead? Zinc? Brass? How are you attaching the hanging hardware to the panel/frame? How heavy/large i= s the panel? Christie A. Wood Art Glass Ensembles Denton, TX ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Jan 7 15:30:53 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 7 Jan 2002 15:17:12 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: gjr From: gjr@bungi.com (Glenna Rand) To: Cecily & Ralph Wood , Bungi Glass Subject: Re: sagging Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 15:15:06 PST Message-ID: Precedence: bulk [In the message entitled "sagging" on Jan 6, 12:25, Cecily & Ralph Wood writes:] > When sagging (glass, not me - I do that anyway), should I coat both > sides with devit (borax solution?) Thanks - Cec I would like to know more about "devit" too. Where do you buy it? -- Glenna Rand gjr@bungi.com ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Jan 7 18:31:26 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 7 Jan 2002 18:28:47 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: tsn.cc!pauls From: paul s To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Subject: Stained Glass & Woodwork..!! Date: Sun, 06 Jan 2002 16:58:55 +1100 Message-ID: <5.0.2.1.0.20020106165557.009f1d90@mail.tsn.cc> Precedence: bulk Hi everyone, I joined this site a few months back and asked a question, and got a few nice replies. Just thought I may recycle the question again for any new ideas. I have been doing woodwork for years, making furniture or anything really, and just recently started to do a course in stained glass. I am presently working on small cedar jewellery boxes to incorporate my two interests, but does anyone have any new ideas on small projects that could be sold at the markets, wherein I can use both hobbies. Thanks everyone, Paul, (from Aus) ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Jan 7 19:17:50 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 7 Jan 2002 19:00:57 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: slonet.org!edupjohn From: "Peggy W. Johnsen" To: Cecily & Ralph Wood Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Subject: Re: full spectrum lights Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 15:55:48 -0800 (PST) Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@slonet.org> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>> Precedence: bulk Ced: Uncovered flourescent lights are a health hazard. They cause rapid skin aging, depression, and in some cases skin cancer. The full spectrum flourescent light bulbs are better but they still contain the UV rays which do all the damage. If you can find a floor model haleogen lamp you may be better off. Of course, you want to be sure that nothing touches the bulb since the heat from the lamp is really strong. Unless the Ott lamp tells you the flourescent bult is free from emiting UV rays I would suggest you try something else. Several incandescent lamps may be a better answer. PJ ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Jan 7 19:29:51 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 7 Jan 2002 19:01:55 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: stratus.com!Charlie.Spitzer From: "Spitzer, Charlie" To: "'glass@bungi.com'" Content-Type: text/plain Subject: FW: problem with glass pulling away from came Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 13:03:41 -0700 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@stratus.com> Precedence: bulk it's gravity that's causing this. just because the came is stretched doesn't mean that it can't stretch some more. all lead will stretch until it eventually breaks unless you support it in some manner. you may need to use some sort of reinforcement, either rebar on the back, perhaps using reinforced lead came, or putting the panel inside of some type of frame (wood, zinc, chain, etc). any would solve the problem. regards, charlie phx, az -----Original Message----- From: Shecharlie@aol.com [mailto:Shecharlie@aol.com] Sent: Monday, January 07, 2002 10:03 AM To: glass@bungi.com Subject: problem with glass pulling away from came im having a problem with glass thats pulling away from the came after it is hung for awhile. i have stretched the came and cannot figure out why this is happening and what to do about it. thanks for any help sheila ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Jan 7 19:32:01 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 7 Jan 2002 19:17:21 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: stratus.com!Charlie.Spitzer From: "Spitzer, Charlie" To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain Subject: RE: Glastar Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 11:44:36 -0700 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@stratus.com> Precedence: bulk that doesn't work on an ac motor. it probably doesn't have a dc motor, which would work. you'd have to make some sort of pulley system so you could twist the belt. regards, charlie phx, az > -----Original Message----- > From: Dan Terrill [mailto:dterrill@Corpit.com] > Sent: Monday, January 07, 2002 9:26 AM > To: glass@bungi.com > Subject: RE: Glastar > > > umm, I'm a bit out of my depth here, but can't you just > reverse the polarity > to the motor to change it's direction? > > > -----Original Message----- > > > Anyone here using any Glastar upright polishers? I just got > > a 12" model > > and was wondering if I can turn the motor around so the > > wheels turn the > > opposite way? For years I've used an old Gemstone polisher > > and the wheels > > rotate down towards the drip pan and most of the mess goes > > into the pans... > > These glastar units rotate so all the mess goes upand all over the > > place...Any thoughts? I've built a shield to catch some of it > > but am still > > not real happy... > > > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Jan 7 22:32:52 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 7 Jan 2002 22:29:34 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: softhouse.com!giapet From: "Karen K" To: "paul s" , Subject: Re: Stained Glass & Woodwork..!! Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 01:22:33 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@softhouse.com> References: <<5.0.2.1.0.20020106165557.009f1d90@mail.tsn.cc>> Precedence: bulk napkin holders, game tables (checkers/chess), coat racks, decorative shelves, wall files for bills, bird feeders. Karen giapet@softhouse.com > Hi everyone, > > I joined this site a few months back and asked a question, and got a few > nice replies. > > Just thought I may recycle the question again for any new ideas. > > I have been doing woodwork for years, making furniture or anything really, > and just recently started to do a course in stained glass. > > I am presently working on small cedar jewellery boxes to incorporate my two > interests, but does anyone have any new ideas on small projects that could > be sold at the markets, wherein I can use both hobbies. > > Thanks everyone, > > Paul, (from Aus) > > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Jan 8 00:03:45 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 7 Jan 2002 23:49:17 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: ptd.net!pikachu6 From: "pikachu6" To: Content-Type: multipart/alternative; Subject: Re: Yes, it was surely quiet... Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 21:29:04 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@ptd.net> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>> Precedence: bulk This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0008_01C197C2.54B54520 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi, my name is Claudia, fairly new to bungi. Only working in stained = glass a year, but trying to make a go of it. Been eves-dropping for a = few weeks. Learning a lot about many things that i haven't even come = across yet. (Been sticking with copper foil, ...have the fear of the = lead came, but who knows may get into it with time.) Mainly work on = suncatchers, handmirrors and fanlamps, but this summer plan to close in = 16x24 deck and put all stained glass windows in., will i ever be busy. = Hope to become part of the bungi family of stained glass. ----- Original Message -----=20 From: NJDKJD@aol.com=20 To: glass@bungi.com=20 Sent: Monday, January 07, 2002 1:12 PM Subject: Yes, it was surely quiet... I was wondering, too, if I was not getting the right mail, or if = Margery, Christy , Ernie.etc. were not on this carrier any longer. I = don't get into chat, in fact, I have lost the nights it is open. Hope = all is well..and Happy New Year to all...and of course Merry Christmas = to those who have Christmas today...=20 Nancy=20 ------=_NextPart_000_0008_01C197C2.54B54520 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hi, my name is Claudia, fairly new to bungi. Only = working in=20 stained glass a year, but trying to make a go of it. Been eves-dropping = for a=20 few weeks. Learning a lot about many things that i haven't even come = across=20 yet. (Been sticking with copper foil, ...have the fear of the lead = came,=20 but who knows may get into it with time.)  Mainly work on = suncatchers,=20 handmirrors and fanlamps, but this summer plan to close in 16x24 = deck  and=20 put all stained glass windows in., will i ever be busy.   Hope = to=20 become part of the bungi family of stained glass.
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 NJDKJD@aol.com
Sent: Monday, January 07, 2002 = 1:12=20 PM
Subject: Yes, it was surely=20 quiet...

I was = wondering, too,=20  if I was not getting the right mail, or if Margery, Christy , = Ernie.etc.=20 were not on this carrier any longer.  I don't get into chat, in = fact, I=20 have lost the nights it is open.  Hope all is well..and Happy New = Year to=20 all...and of course Merry Christmas to those who have Christmas = today...=20
Nancy ------=_NextPart_000_0008_01C197C2.54B54520-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Jan 8 01:35:14 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 8 Jan 2002 01:13:14 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: home.com!bobfuses From: "Bob Duchesneau" To: "Cecily & Ralph Wood" , Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Re: sagging Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 22:23:49 -0800 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>> Precedence: bulk >>When sagging (glass, not me - I do that anyway), should I coat both sides with devit (borax solution?) Thanks - Cec<< I never coat glass that is to be sagged and do not have any devit problems with glasses like Spectrum due to the temperatures reached, <1200'F, being below the devit range of the glass. Glass on the mold side does not devit because there is little air to foster it. Anti devit spray on the shelf side leads to sticking of the glass. Most anti devit sprays do not mature until having reached temperatures well above most sagging programs. So........ the short answer is, do not use anti devit spray on the mold side and rarely on the upper side when sagging. Bob in 92026 ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Jan 8 03:13:22 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 8 Jan 2002 02:34:36 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: home.com!bobfuses From: "Bob Duchesneau" To: "Byron Wells" , Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Re: Glastar Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 22:10:47 -0800 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@attbi.com>> Precedence: bulk >>Anyone here using any Glastar upright polishers? I just got a 12" model and was wondering if I can turn the motor around so the wheels turn the opposite way? << I have a Denver Studio Beveler that is upright and rotates up and away from the user as the Glastar does. Up and away is a good thing if a piece of glass is thrown as happens once in a while. It also directs the polish and glass particles away from the users face. I built a wooden box for the sides and back of the beveler and use a piece of plastic light grid for the top. This catches most of the thrown water, polish and glass particles as well as any thrown glass. The transparent top lets a spotlight shine through so as to light the area being beveled. Bob in 92026 ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Jan 8 06:03:23 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 8 Jan 2002 05:54:43 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: stratus.com!Charlie.Spitzer From: "Spitzer, Charlie" To: "'glass@bungi.com'" Content-Type: text/plain Subject: FW: sagging Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 06:41:47 -0700 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@stratus.com> Precedence: bulk bob has it correct. devit is crystallization of the surface of glass when taken about annealing temps. the type of glass and final top temperature is the determining factors. it is exhibited by a cloudiness or grayish scum on the surface, and doesn't appear on the bottom of pieces unless you're doing something like a drop ring where the bottom is exposed. to eliminate it, you have to use some sort of flux on the top. one can buy sprays that usually contain some amount of lead in them, or a borax solution can be used. the borax solution can be made by adding a couple cups of borax (20 mule team from the supermarket) to a gallon of distilled water. spray on with a mouth atomizer or airbrush. regards, charlie phx, az -----Original Message----- From: gjr@bungi.com [mailto:gjr@bungi.com] Sent: Monday, January 07, 2002 4:15 PM To: Cecily & Ralph Wood; Bungi Glass Subject: Re: sagging [In the message entitled "sagging" on Jan 6, 12:25, Cecily & Ralph Wood writes:] > When sagging (glass, not me - I do that anyway), should I coat both > sides with devit (borax solution?) Thanks - Cec I would like to know more about "devit" too. Where do you buy it? -- Glenna Rand gjr@bungi.com ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Jan 8 06:33:12 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 8 Jan 2002 06:00:38 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: msn.com!brown_gregory From: "brown_gregory" To: "Spitzer, Charlie" , Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Re: Glastar Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 23:02:03 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@msn.com> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@stratus.com>> Precedence: bulk It would work on a 3 phase ac motor..Yes? Greg ----- Original Message ----- From: "Spitzer, Charlie" To: Sent: Monday, January 07, 2002 1:44 PM Subject: RE: Glastar > that doesn't work on an ac motor. it probably doesn't have a dc motor, which > would work. > > you'd have to make some sort of pulley system so you could twist the belt. > > regards, > charlie > phx, az > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Dan Terrill [mailto:dterrill@Corpit.com] > > Sent: Monday, January 07, 2002 9:26 AM > > To: glass@bungi.com > > Subject: RE: Glastar > > > > > > umm, I'm a bit out of my depth here, but can't you just > > reverse the polarity > > to the motor to change it's direction? > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > > > > Anyone here using any Glastar upright polishers? I just got > > > a 12" model > > > and was wondering if I can turn the motor around so the > > > wheels turn the > > > opposite way? For years I've used an old Gemstone polisher > > > and the wheels > > > rotate down towards the drip pan and most of the mess goes > > > into the pans... > > > These glastar units rotate so all the mess goes upand all over the > > > place...Any thoughts? I've built a shield to catch some of it > > > but am still > > > not real happy... > > > > > ---- > > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > > > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Jan 8 08:03:47 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 8 Jan 2002 07:42:16 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles From: "Christie A. Wood" To: Bungi Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Devit Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 09:37:08 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com> Precedence: bulk Message text written by Glenna Rand >I would like to know more about "devit" too. Where do you buy it?< Devit solution can be ordered/purchased from most stained glass retail suppliers. Many will not have it in stock, but can order it in their next wholesale purchase. Christie A. Wood Art Glass Ensembles Denton, TX ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Jan 8 09:31:25 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 8 Jan 2002 09:02:59 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: aol.com!CUngv From: CUngv@aol.com To: pauls@tsn.cc, glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Subject: Re: Stained Glass & Woodwork..!! Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 11:57:18 EST Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com> Precedence: bulk Paul, I was at a nice craft show awhile back and someone was selling oak? cabinets with attractive stained glass panels inserted in the doors. These cabinets looked like they were intended to go in the bathroom. Also, I have seen catalogues that offer to sell coffee or end tables with a space to add a mosaic on the surface. Surely a nice panel inserted in the top of a table would look nice. You would have to come up with strong reinforcement under the glass and most likely some protection above the glass, but I am sure it could be done. I myself am trying to come up with nice wood frames for my panels. I believe that any panel would be greatly enhanced by a beautiful, custom frame. Good luck. Carolyn Gilinsky ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Jan 8 10:04:56 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 8 Jan 2002 09:53:24 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: GSA-ORSP.CROWN.NWU.EDU!kaye From: "Kaye Sodt" To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Subject: Re: Stained Glass & Woodwork..!! Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 11:51:01 CST 6CDT Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@GSA> Organization: GSA-ORSP Precedence: bulk I am presently working on small cedar jewellery boxes to incorporate my two interests, but does anyone have any new ideas on small projects that could be sold at the markets, wherein I can use both hobbies. ---------------------------- Bookends? Hand mirrors? Lampshades with nice wood bases? Kaye ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Jan 8 15:04:14 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 8 Jan 2002 14:55:53 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: attbi.com!byronw26 From: "Byron Wells" To: Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Re: Glastar Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 16:54:29 -0600 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@attbi.com> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@msn.com>> Precedence: bulk Yes it would work on a 3 phase motor.. Swap any 2 of the hots and the motor will turn the other way.. ----- Original Message ----- From: "brown_gregory" To: "Spitzer, Charlie" Sent: Monday, January 07, 2002 10:02 PM Subject: Re: Glastar > It would work on a 3 phase ac motor..Yes? > Greg > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Spitzer, Charlie" > To: > Sent: Monday, January 07, 2002 1:44 PM > Subject: RE: Glastar > > > > that doesn't work on an ac motor. it probably doesn't have a dc motor, > which > > would work. > > > > you'd have to make some sort of pulley system so you could twist the belt. > > > > regards, > > charlie > > phx, az > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > > From: Dan Terrill [mailto:dterrill@Corpit.com] > > > Sent: Monday, January 07, 2002 9:26 AM > > > To: glass@bungi.com > > > Subject: RE: Glastar > > > > > > > > > umm, I'm a bit out of my depth here, but can't you just > > > reverse the polarity > > > to the motor to change it's direction? > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > > > > > > Anyone here using any Glastar upright polishers? I just got > > > > a 12" model > > > > and was wondering if I can turn the motor around so the > > > > wheels turn the > > > > opposite way? For years I've used an old Gemstone polisher > > > > and the wheels > > > > rotate down towards the drip pan and most of the mess goes > > > > into the pans... > > > > These glastar units rotate so all the mess goes upand all over the > > > > place...Any thoughts? I've built a shield to catch some of it > > > > but am still > > > > not real happy... > > > > > > > ---- > > > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > > > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > > > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > > > > > ---- > > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > > > > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Jan 8 18:31:02 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 8 Jan 2002 17:49:44 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: holtenwood.bc.ca!studios From: "Timothy Atwood" To: "Bungi" Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Re: full spectrum lights Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 15:04:43 -0800 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@holtenwood.bc.ca> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@slonet.org>> Organization: Holtenwood Studios Precedence: bulk Not true. Or at least not true for many brands of fluorescent lights. We run an art gallery and I have done a great deal of research into lighting and the damage the UV can do to the art work. Halogen also generates a fair amount of UV. Often much more than a decent quality wide spectrum fluorescent. Any quality manufacturer of wide spectrum fluorescents will have exact specifications. We also live "off-grid" using solar panels for our electrical power so our entire house is lit with compact fluorescents to save on energy usage. Believe me, a hypochondriac such as myself has researched the health effects of fluorescent lighting thoroughly. :-) I am personally a fan of the Philips products for full size and full spectrum fluorescents. Panasonic for compact fluorescents (they are more efficient and the Panasonic light-capsule electronics give a better life-span than many other compacts). For many applications a CRI of 85 or above is considered to be excellent colour balance. Philips has CRI 86 lamps in the ALTO environmental series of lamps. These lamps have the advantage of very low mercury content and long life resulting in a very low ecological footprint (i.e.: very low environmental impact in the materials and land-fill waste over the life of the lamp as compared to most other lighting types). Or, if you really want great colour balance look at the Philips TL90 series at: http://www.lighting.philips.com/nam/prodinfo/fluorescent/p5037b.shtml With a colour rendering index (CRI) of 95 for the 3000K lamp and 98 for the 5000K lamp, you can't get better. Heck - various atmospheric conditions often drop sunlight below 95 CRI ! Even with the 5000K lamp the UV is comparable to standard incandescent and better than most halogen. (There are of course museum and gallery grade halogens that have less UV, but most halogens you could buy off the shelf have more). Only problem with the TL90 series is the low light output. You will need almost twice as many bulbs for the same perceived brightness as the TL80 series. Timothy Atwood - Glass and Wood Holtenwood Studios http://www.holtenwood.bc.ca/studios/ ----- Original Message ----- From: "Peggy W. Johnsen" To: "Cecily & Ralph Wood" Sent: Monday, January 07, 2002 3:55 PM Subject: Re: full spectrum lights > Ced: Uncovered flourescent lights are a health hazard. They cause rapid > skin aging, depression, and in some cases skin cancer. The full spectrum > flourescent light bulbs are better but they still contain the UV rays > which do all the damage. If you can find a floor model haleogen lamp you > may be better off. Of course, you want to be sure that nothing touches > the bulb since the heat from the lamp is really strong. > > Unless the Ott lamp tells you the flourescent bult is free from emiting UV > rays I would suggest you try something else. Several incandescent lamps > may be a better answer. PJ > > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Jan 8 21:36:39 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 8 Jan 2002 21:28:29 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: home.com!cecnralph From: Cecily & Ralph Wood To: Bungi Glass Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Subject: Re: FW: sagging Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2002 22:47:47 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@stratus.com>> Organization: Grendel Studio Precedence: bulk Drop ring IS what I had in mind - and maybe puddled a bit on the bottom. - Cec "Spitzer, Charlie" wrote: > bob has it correct. devit is crystallization of the surface of glass when > taken about annealing temps. the type of glass and final top temperature is > the determining factors. it is exhibited by a cloudiness or grayish scum on > the surface, and doesn't appear on the bottom of pieces unless you're doing > something like a drop ring where the bottom is exposed. > > to eliminate it, you have to use some sort of flux on the top. one can buy > sprays that usually contain some amount of lead in them, or a borax solution > can be used. the borax solution can be made by adding a couple cups of borax > (20 mule team from the supermarket) to a gallon of distilled water. spray on > with a mouth atomizer or airbrush. > > regards, > charlie > phx, az > > -----Original Message----- > From: gjr@bungi.com [mailto:gjr@bungi.com] > Sent: Monday, January 07, 2002 4:15 PM > To: Cecily & Ralph Wood; Bungi Glass > Subject: Re: sagging > > [In the message entitled "sagging" on Jan 6, 12:25, Cecily & Ralph Wood > writes:] > > When sagging (glass, not me - I do that anyway), should I coat both > > sides with devit (borax solution?) Thanks - Cec > > I would like to know more about "devit" too. > Where do you buy it? > > -- > Glenna Rand > gjr@bungi.com > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Jan 9 00:30:50 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 9 Jan 2002 00:08:19 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: holtenwood.bc.ca!tim From: "Tim Atwood" To: "Cecily & Ralph Wood" , Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Re: full spectrum lights Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 17:18:58 -0800 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@holtenwood.bc.ca> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>> Precedence: bulk And now a reply back to the original message. I always do things backwards :-) The Ott lights are amazing for some special applications. They have unusual sizes, configurations, and I believe some that even run on batteries. A friend has a tiny portable one on her portable loom. But they are pretty pricey too. So far I have not found a case where I need quite this specialized of a light. If you can get away with a more standard configuration, you would be better off buying a standard size fixture and putting good full spectrum fluorescents into it. For my shop I use standard 4 foot fluorescent fixtures. I buy them from a local wholesale lighting store. I prefer electronic ballasts because I hate the flicker and buzz of standard transformer ballasts. Electronic ballasts cost about 10% more, but they deliver more lumens from the same fluorescent bulb. High frequency of an electronic ballast means the phosphors in the fluorescent bulb never have a chance to go "dim" between cycles the way a 60 hertz transformer ballast does. No flickering, more light. They also do not make that annoying buzz. Unfortunately places like Home Depot only sell fixtures with transformer electro-mechanical ballasts. By going to a wholesale lighting store I can order the fixture and the ballast separately and get what I want. For the bulbs in the four foot fixtures I use: Philips Alto TL835 bulbs for general lighting and customer areas Philips Alto TL850 bulbs for general lighting in design areas http://www.lighting.philips.com/nam/prodinfo/fluorescent/p5338b.shtml Philips TL950 bulbs for critical light comparison applications such as one of my light tables. http://www.lighting.philips.com/nam/prodinfo/fluorescent/p5037b.shtml I also use a desk lamp with 18inch fluorescents for adjustable and close-in work. Just a standard drafters lamp. The TL90 series does not come in an 18 inch, just 24, 36, and 48 inch. So I have TL850's in it. Also a TL850 has more lumens (brighter) than a TL950 would be. To understand what these bulbs and the numbers mean: CRI = Colour Rendering Index = A measure of the colour balance in relation to sunlight where theoretical "perfect" sunlight would be 100. Note: Actual sunlight is in the 95 to 100 range depending on atmospheric conditions. Perfect "indirect northern" sunlight may actually rate a bit higher than 100. In fluorescent lamps, 85 is considered excellent with most applications looking very similar to sunlight. 95 is considered demanding design and colour matching quality. A cheap "warm white" or "cool white" fluorescent is generally poor at 55 to 65 CRI and sometimes as low as 30 CRI. Colour temperature or degrees "Kelvin". A measure of the amount of "blue" vs. "red" in the light's output spectrum. As a theoretical perfect filament is heated to higher and higher temperatures, it glows with more light in the higher frequencies such as blue (and violet / ultra-violet). 2800-3000 degrees - Standard incandescent bulb - "warm white". People look good and friendly. Use for areas that you want to appear friendly and warm and where you deal with customers. Colours with blue in them do not render well. The TL835 is listed as 3000 degrees Kelvin 3500 degrees Kelvin - Halogen bulb. Still warm and friendly looking. Much truer colour rendering than a standard incandescent bulb. 4500 degrees Kelvin - Direct sunlight. 5000 degrees Kelvin - Indirect sunlight. Considered by many people the "truest" colour temperature for matching colours with the human eye. 6500 degrees Kelvin - Indirect reflected "Northern Sky" light. Many painters feel a studio lit only with real sun "Northern Sky" is the perfect colour rendering. TL835 - CRI 86 - 3500 K - 2950 lumens (48 inch) TL850 - CRI 86 - 5000 K - 2950 lumens (48 inch) TL950 - CRI 98 - 5000 K (or actually they have downgraded it to 4400 K based on recent test results). 1880 lumens for a 48 inch bulb. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Cecily & Ralph Wood" To: "Bungi Glass" Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2002 1:07 PM Subject: full spectrum lights > Some time ago (years?) we had a discussion about light sources, and when > I suggested grow lights I was batted down good, and made to understand > they lacked quite a bit. Ott lights were suggested. You can now buy > Ott lights (JoAnn's shops and other crafts places) - especially the > desktop kinds, and I have one and it is nice - but expensive. A floor > light from Ott costs around $150m but they are hard to find, as are the > long fluorescent ones for ordinary shop lights. > > There is a new "full spectrum" light out that is being promoted fairly > heavily, and its floor light costs about $130. Not a lot less money, > but maybe it will be easier to acquire. The desk ones are about the > same price as the Ott. Those of you who are really knowedgable about > lighting - is it comprable? They are called Easy-Eye Lamps and the bulb > itself is sort of a 4 pronged fluorescent thingy, and they, too, promise > long life and cool bulbs (which I take it go together). - ever curious - > Cec > > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Jan 9 05:06:23 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 9 Jan 2002 04:52:32 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: aol.com!UserDusty From: UserDusty@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Subject: Re: Grinders Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 07:33:25 EST Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com> Precedence: bulk Hi All, Just putting my two cents worth on grinders. When I first started doing glass I purchased on of the kits. Grinder, soldering iron, foil and some glass. The grinder was the Wizling. A very basic unit. There was no eyeshield with it and I had to make my own. It did come with two bits. It lasted for about a year before it froze up. I had problems with it overheating and it would just shut down. I think it had a thermal cutout that if it got over heated it would open and shut the unit down. I didn't bother sending the unit in for repair because I tore it apart and found that it had plastic bushings in it. Well, I got what I paid for. The next grinder was the Glastar G-8. It came with the second story, glass face shield, support, straight edge guide with extra parts and a square. It's now about four years old and still going strong. I agree with Christie, you get a bigger motor and a larger work surface. When this one bites the big one. You bet there will be another G-8 to replace it. You can check out grinders on Delphi's web site at www.Delphiglass.com. I know you're new to glass and things are expensive in your area. Look at it this way if later you decide you don't like glass as a hobby you can always sell it and get back some of your money. Have a good one, Ken O. Decorative Glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Jan 9 05:19:28 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 9 Jan 2002 04:58:43 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: midwest.net!pipsplay From: "Cube" To: "Bungi Glass" Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: RE: full spectrum lights Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 12:18:18 -0600 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@midwest.net> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>> Precedence: bulk Hi Cec, I am new to the group and don't really want to start off with a sales pitch, but I think I can help with full-spectrum lighting. I have raised Love Birds indoors for several years, and we sell full-spectrum lighting for the birds. I carry the new floor lamp you asked about, although I don't sell many. A couple of quilting groups have also gotten them from me. Much cheaper are standard shop light fixtures with just the 4' full-spectrum bulbs. The only way to get true full-spectrum is with flourescents. They do last a long time, stay cool during use, and use less electricity for the light output. The tubes fit standard flourescent fixtures and come in 2',3', or 4' lenghts. It is important to me to have them "fresh" (for the bird's health), so I change half of them every year. For visual purposes, I believe they should last for several years. Anyone may E-mail me privately for prices, shipping, or more information (sorry our website is currently down). Thanks, I hope I've contibuted to the discussion, Cube/Pip's Playhouse -----Original Message----- From: Cecily & Ralph Wood [mailto:cecnralph@home.com] Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2002 3:08 PM To: Bungi Glass Subject: full spectrum lights Some time ago (years?) we had a discussion about light sources, and when I suggested grow lights I was batted down good, and made to understand they lacked quite a bit. Ott lights were suggested. You can now buy Ott lights (JoAnn's shops and other crafts places) - especially the desktop kinds, and I have one and it is nice - but expensive. A floor light from Ott costs around $150m but they are hard to find, as are the long fluorescent ones for ordinary shop lights. There is a new "full spectrum" light out that is being promoted fairly heavily, and its floor light costs about $130. Not a lot less money, but maybe it will be easier to acquire. The desk ones are about the same price as the Ott. Those of you who are really knowedgable about lighting - is it comprable? They are called Easy-Eye Lamps and the bulb itself is sort of a 4 pronged fluorescent thingy, and they, too, promise long life and cool bulbs (which I take it go together). - ever curious - Cec ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Jan 9 05:35:14 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 9 Jan 2002 05:13:26 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: att.net!r.wickline From: Rebecca Wickline To: Glass Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Subject: subscribe Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2002 19:01:36 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@att.net> Precedence: bulk I've somehow gotten taken off your list. Please put me back on. Thanks- Becky ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Jan 9 08:36:23 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 9 Jan 2002 08:01:30 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: nysernet.org!rjones From: Robin Jones To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Subject: Reinforcement Date: Wed, 09 Jan 2002 10:26:41 -0500 Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.0.20020109102427.00ab1140@msi.nysernet.org> Precedence: bulk Dear Group - I'm looking for suggestions about reinforcing a foiled 16 inch diameter, celtic knot. I haven't built it yet, this is my first try a something larger than a sun catcher. Because I have read so much about reinforcing and sagging (there is much for me to learn) I decided to sign-up for a refresher course offered through my local high school. The instructor told me because there will be so many intersecting solder lines (there's 60 pieces) that I may not need any reinforcement, or that I could consider framing it in came. Of course, the instructor will help and show me how, but I'm still concerned about the strength of the piece over time. Does any one have other suggestions that I should consider? Thanks in advance for your help. - Robin ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Jan 9 10:06:06 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 9 Jan 2002 09:52:43 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: home.com!gunnx4 From: Suzanne Gunn To: Robin Jones Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: Re: Reinforcement Date: Wed, 09 Jan 2002 11:21:55 -0600 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com> References: <<5.1.0.14.0.20020109102427.00ab1140@msi.nysernet.org>> Organization: glassdancer Precedence: bulk Robin, for a 16" celtic knot, my opinion is that you will NOT need reinforcement, however I would border it with either wire or ball chain to strengthen the outside border. Suzanne Robin Jones wrote: > > Dear Group - > > I'm looking for suggestions about reinforcing a foiled 16 inch diameter, > celtic knot. I haven't built it yet, this is my first try a something > larger than a sun catcher. > > Because I have read so much about reinforcing and sagging (there is much > for me to learn) I decided to sign-up for a refresher course offered > through my local high school. > > The instructor told me because there will be so many intersecting solder > lines (there's 60 pieces) that I may not need any reinforcement, or that I > could consider framing it in came. Of course, the instructor will help and > show me how, but I'm still concerned about the strength of the piece over > time. > > Does any one have other suggestions that I should consider? > > Thanks in advance for your help. > > - Robin > > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Jan 9 10:37:02 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 9 Jan 2002 10:11:33 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: home.com!gunnx4 From: Suzanne Gunn To: UserDusty@aol.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: Re: Grinders Date: Wed, 09 Jan 2002 11:20:36 -0600 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>> Organization: glassdancer Precedence: bulk I just wanted to mention that a person should *never* rely on the face shield alone as eye protection. The shields that come with grinders get in the way IMHO anyway. You should **always** were protective eye wear. I cant tell you how many times Ive gotten glass in my eyes even with my glasses on. Suzanne UserDusty@aol.com wrote: > > Hi All, > Just putting my two cents worth on grinders. When I first started doing > glass I purchased on of the kits. Grinder, soldering iron, foil and some > glass. The grinder was the Wizling. A very basic unit. There was no > eyeshield with it and I had to make my own. It did come with two bits. It > lasted for about a year before it froze up. I had problems with it > overheating and it would just shut down. I think it had a thermal cutout > that if it got over heated it would open and shut the unit down. I didn't > bother sending the unit in for repair because I tore it apart and found that > it had plastic bushings in it. Well, I got what I paid for. > > The next grinder was the Glastar G-8. It came with the second story, glass > face shield, support, straight edge guide with extra parts and a square. > It's now about four years old and still going strong. I agree with Christie, > you get a bigger motor and a larger work surface. When this one bites the big > one. You bet there will be another G-8 to replace it. ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Jan 9 10:43:49 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 9 Jan 2002 10:17:46 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: home.com!esavad From: "Mike Savad" To: "Robin Jones" , Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: RE: Reinforcement Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 12:44:50 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com> References: <<5.1.0.14.0.20020109102427.00ab1140@msi.nysernet.org>> Precedence: bulk i'll assume it's in foil. a celtic knot should be pretty strong. the teacher is right, many of the pieces will often overlap each other, and it will be stronger. i might stick wire or the like around the border when it's complete. ---Mike Savad -----Original Message----- From: Robin Jones [mailto:rjones@nysernet.org] Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2002 10:27 AM To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Reinforcement Dear Group - I'm looking for suggestions about reinforcing a foiled 16 inch diameter, celtic knot. I haven't built it yet, this is my first try a something larger than a sun catcher. Because I have read so much about reinforcing and sagging (there is much for me to learn) I decided to sign-up for a refresher course offered through my local high school. The instructor told me because there will be so many intersecting solder lines (there's 60 pieces) that I may not need any reinforcement, or that I could consider framing it in came. Of course, the instructor will help and show me how, but I'm still concerned about the strength of the piece over time. Does any one have other suggestions that I should consider? Thanks in advance for your help. - Robin ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Jan 9 13:01:54 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 9 Jan 2002 12:38:41 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: slonet.org!edupjohn From: "Peggy W. Johnsen" To: Robin Jones Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Subject: Re: Reinforcement Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 12:35:04 -0800 (PST) Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@slonet.org> References: <<5.1.0.14.0.20020109102427.00ab1140@msi.nysernet.org>> Precedence: bulk Robin: If you are concerned about using came around the edge of the foiled project I will tell you what I do to prevent the sagging especially if you have a lot of seams in the panel. I go ahead and use u-came and then on the back I solder each seam line to the came. So far it works really well. Peggy ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Jan 9 22:50:03 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 9 Jan 2002 22:32:35 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: aol.com!Bergju From: Bergju@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_85.15b19028.296e656c_boundary" Subject: chain Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 22:33:00 EST Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com> Precedence: bulk --part1_85.15b19028.296e656c_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit hey guys, just started this great hobby of stained glass and i think i've found my nitch! but there are no classes, etc in my area so i've learned with each piece and through you guys on this wonderful site. here is my question: what the heck is "ball chain" i've read it on patterns and here but am not really sure what kind of chain it is. thanks guys and glad you are all back up and posting! Jules --part1_85.15b19028.296e656c_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit hey guys, just started this great hobby of stained glass and i think i've found my nitch!  but there are no classes, etc in my area so i've learned with each piece and through you guys on this wonderful site.  here is my question:  what the heck is "ball chain"  i've read it on patterns and here but am not really sure what kind of chain it is.  thanks guys and glad you are all back up and posting!

Jules --part1_85.15b19028.296e656c_boundary-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Jan 9 23:02:40 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 9 Jan 2002 22:42:38 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: home.com!cecnralph From: Cecily & Ralph Wood To: Bungi Glass Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Subject: Re: full spectrum lights Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 00:10:15 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com> References: <> Organization: Grendel Studio Precedence: bulk The halogen research was not about the heat. However, I once mounted a spot halogen light right where I wanted it to see when cutting with a Ring Saw, and walked away with the light still on, and when I came back, my saw top grid surface was somewhat deformed. Expensive mistake!. - Cec "Peggy W. Johnsen" wrote: > Cec: If the flourescent lighting is not covered I would strongly suggest > you report this to your supervisor as a concern. I worked for a major > power and light company and they made it clear they were in the business > to sell light not judge it. > > You are correct, any cover will disperse the harmful rays. As I > understand it the primary danger of the halogen lamps is in the excessive > heat they generate not any UV perhaps sodium flare. I haven't researched > this as I did the flourescent lighting. Peggy ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Jan 9 23:12:04 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 9 Jan 2002 22:48:54 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: slonet.org!edupjohn From: "Peggy W. Johnsen" To: paul s Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Subject: Re: Stained Glass & Woodwork..!! Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 12:12:09 -0800 (PST) Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@slonet.org> References: <<5.0.2.1.0.20020106165557.009f1d90@mail.tsn.cc>> Precedence: bulk Paul: You most certainly can combine your two favorite hobbies...woodworking and stained glass. Make your boxes in wood leaving a cut out area for the top and fill it with a nice stained glass design. Also use your talents to creat finished "light boxes" to display stained glass panels on walls where there are no windows. You probably received suggestions to make your own wooden frames. Actually woodworking just goes with stained glass. The possibilities are unlimited just need creative ideas, i.e., combine woodworking to make bases for glass lanterns, candel shelters, etc. Peggy ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Jan 9 23:12:37 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 9 Jan 2002 23:10:03 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: autop.com!robin From: "Robin Ellison - Auto And Parts, LLC" To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: grinder info Date: Wed, 09 Jan 2002 11:41:17 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@autop.com> Organization: Auto and Parts.Com Precedence: bulk since were on grinders, here is what i did with mine. http://www.autosalvageyards.com/glass.htm -- ******************************************************** Thank You Robin Ellison Auto & Parts... http://www.autoandparts.com 1-888-977-1999 Automotive Internet Services that get RESULTS !! Auto & Parts provides internet solutions exclusively for the Auto Recycling Industry. Offering used part locating systems for buying & selling , web site design, hosting and maintenance at a reasonable cost. AOL FRIENDLY LINK Auto And Parts ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Jan 10 00:18:40 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 9 Jan 2002 23:34:56 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: home.com!cecnralph From: Cecily & Ralph Wood To: Bungi Glass Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Subject: Re: Reinforcement Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 00:12:35 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@slonet.org>> Organization: Grendel Studio Precedence: bulk Front AND back. I also foil the edges before adding the copper came which makes the fit really tight. No need to use "cement" - Cec "Peggy W. Johnsen" wrote: > Robin: If you are concerned about using came around the edge of the > foiled project I will tell you what I do to prevent the sagging especially > if you have a lot of seams in the panel. I go ahead and use u-came and > then on the back I solder each seam line to the came. So far it works > really well. Peggy > > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Jan 10 02:02:35 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 10 Jan 2002 01:34:34 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles From: "Christie A. Wood" To: Bungi Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Reinforcement Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 22:21:01 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com> Precedence: bulk Message text written by Robin Jones >The instructor told me because there will be so many intersecting solder= = lines (there's 60 pieces) that I may not need any reinforcement, or that = I = could consider framing it in came. Of course, the instructor will help a= nd show me how, but I'm still concerned about the strength of the piece over= = time.< I think your instructor is absolutely correct. Celtic knot with so many intersecting lines? Very, very interlocking too. No additional reinforcement needed for a 16" piece IMHO. Christie A. Wood Art Glass Ensembles Denton, TX ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Jan 10 02:18:17 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 10 Jan 2002 02:12:32 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: tsn.cc!pauls From: paul s To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Subject: Glass Etching...! Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 21:04:11 +1100 Message-ID: <5.0.2.1.0.20020110205719.009f2a40@mail.tsn.cc> Precedence: bulk Hi, In my new stained glass course I also learnt how to etch on glass with etching compound. We use Etchall, down here. The procedure I learnt is to clean the glass with a cleaning fluid, then cover both sides of it with clear contact, sandwiching the glass inside. Then place the picture underneath the glass and trace around it with a craft knife, remove the contact that you dont want, clean the glass again, then apply with etchall...etc... But my question is, I am trying to do smallish intricate cutting on the clear contact, such as letters of a person's name on the glass. And it is difficult to neatly remove the contact without taking off pieces that I want left there..!! Any suggestions on a better method for intricate cutting....?? Paul.......from Aus...... ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Jan 10 02:32:37 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 10 Jan 2002 02:23:41 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: home.com!cecnralph From: Cecily & Ralph Wood To: Bungi Glass Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Subject: Re: Reinforcement Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 00:04:56 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>> Organization: Grendel Studio Precedence: bulk Or I like the sol-called hobby came in copper. Small lightweight U came makes a super edge. - Cec Suzanne Gunn wrote: > Robin, for a 16" celtic knot, my opinion is that you will NOT need > reinforcement, however I would border it with either wire or ball chain > to strengthen the outside border. > > Suzanne > > Robin Jones wrote: > > > > Dear Group - > > > > I'm looking for suggestions about reinforcing a foiled 16 inch diameter, > > celtic knot. I haven't built it yet, this is my first try a something > > larger than a sun catcher. > > > > Because I have read so much about reinforcing and sagging (there is much > > for me to learn) I decided to sign-up for a refresher course offered > > through my local high school. > > > > The instructor told me because there will be so many intersecting solder > > lines (there's 60 pieces) that I may not need any reinforcement, or that I > > could consider framing it in came. Of course, the instructor will help and > > show me how, but I'm still concerned about the strength of the piece over > > time. > > > > Does any one have other suggestions that I should consider? > > > > Thanks in advance for your help. > > > > - Robin > > > > ---- > > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Jan 10 03:04:37 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 10 Jan 2002 02:43:09 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: erols.com!deethom From: Dee Thompson To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Subject: Re: full spectrum lights Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2002 10:01:27 -0800 Message-ID: Precedence: bulk I've looked into lighting quite a bit since it is critical to the health of the birds and reptiles I care for. full spectrum in a misnomer..it isn't done...by anyone, no matter how much you pay. All you need for glass is a broad range over the visible spectrum, through the blue range and red range. Fluorescent are generally in the blue side, that is why your reds get browned out. A cheap common shop light can be improved by adding a pink tinted light bulb. This is why they use this end of the spectrum to enhance photos,,,have you seen the tv ad where the baby gets pinked up, out of the sallow skin tones? (this was also a common fix it for grow lights in the old days) Ott is way over priced for it's function. If you were sold on the radiation shield, wrap a bit of kitchen aluminum foil around the last few inches of the bulb and ballast. No big deal. There are better cheaper ones on the market. The lighting industry is not regulated by any government standards, so a lot of the pitches are little more than ads for snake oil. The only part of the spectrum that is regulated is the UVB, because that is the tanning range for humans, dangerous, and is used for cosmetic purposes. You don't really want that over head anyway. The amount in Ott is negligible, they advertise it, but it really is not even sufficient for animal health maintenance (UVB mobilizes the calcium). You might try one of the bulbs that advertises color enhancement. Range over the spectrum gives fuller color value for our vision, intensity or wattage gives you brightness for actually seeing.. Boy do I need more of that as time goes by too! Dee Thompson Parrot Rescue Maryland ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Jan 10 07:02:21 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 10 Jan 2002 06:51:17 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: compuserve.com!ensemles From: "Christie A. Wood" To: Bungi Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Glass Etching...! Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 09:22:13 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com> Precedence: bulk Message text written by paul s >But my question is, I am trying to do smallish intricate cutting on the = clear contact, such as letters of a person's name on the glass. And it i= s = difficult to neatly remove the contact without taking off pieces that I = want left there..!! Any suggestions on a better method for intricate cutting....??< Nope. Just patience, and using the edge of the knife to gently lift off the contact to be remved. Christie A. Wood Art Glass Ensembles Denton, TX ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Jan 10 08:39:56 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 10 Jan 2002 08:13:45 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: home.com!gunnx4 From: Suzanne Gunn To: Bergju@aol.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: Re: chain Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 08:14:35 -0600 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>> Organization: glassdancer Precedence: bulk Ball chain is what your fan pulls are on. For stained glass use be sure to use ball chain that is not laquered. Suzanne Bergju@aol.com wrote: > > hey guys, just started this great hobby of stained glass and i think > i've found my nitch! but there are no classes, etc in my area so i've > learned with each piece and through you guys on this wonderful site. > here is my question: what the heck is "ball chain" i've read it on > patterns and here but am not really sure what kind of chain it is. > thanks guys and glad you are all back up and posting! > > Jules ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Jan 10 09:05:41 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 10 Jan 2002 08:32:19 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: stratus.com!Charlie.Spitzer From: "Spitzer, Charlie" To: "'glass@bungi.com'" Content-Type: text/plain Subject: RE: grinder info Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 06:39:13 -0700 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@stratus.com> Precedence: bulk another way is to use 10 gallon fish tanks tipped on their side. really cheap, or even free if it has a cracked panel. regards, charlie phx, az > -----Original Message----- > From: Robin Ellison - Auto And Parts, LLC [mailto:robin@autop.com] > Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2002 9:41 AM > To: glass@bungi.com > Subject: grinder info > > > since were on grinders, here is what i did with mine. > http://www.autosalvageyards.com/glass.htm ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Jan 10 09:09:01 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 10 Jan 2002 08:44:41 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: GSA-ORSP.CROWN.NWU.EDU!kaye From: "Kaye Sodt" To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Subject: Re: grinder info Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 09:44:55 CST 6CDT Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@GSA> Organization: GSA-ORSP Precedence: bulk Pretty slick, Robin. I've done much the same except with a cardboard box. When it gets too funky, I toss and replace it. Yours is certainly more attractive. Hafta think about upgrading.... Kaye ------------------------------------------- since were on grinders, here is what i did with mine. http://www.autosalvageyards.com/glass.htm A ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Jan 10 13:03:13 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 10 Jan 2002 12:48:51 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: home.com!esavad From: "Mike Savad" To: , Content-Type: multipart/alternative; Subject: RE: chain Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 10:24:44 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>> Precedence: bulk This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0006_01C199C1.05ADD220 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit ball chain is the chain that hangs down from pull chains from lights or fans. little balls attached to each other. commonly soldered around the border and tinned/tacked in place. ---Mike Savad -----Original Message----- From: Bergju@aol.com [mailto:Bergju@aol.com] Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2002 10:33 PM To: glass@bungi.com Subject: chain hey guys, just started this great hobby of stained glass and i think i've found my nitch! but there are no classes, etc in my area so i've learned with each piece and through you guys on this wonderful site. here is my question: what the heck is "ball chain" i've read it on patterns and here but am not really sure what kind of chain it is. thanks guys and glad you are all back up and posting! Jules ------=_NextPart_000_0006_01C199C1.05ADD220 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

ball chain is the chain that hangs down = from pull=20 chains from lights or fans. little balls attached to each other. = commonly=20 soldered around the border and tinned/tacked in=20 place.
 
 
---Mike Savad
 
 
 
 -----Original = Message-----
From:=20 Bergju@aol.com [mailto:Bergju@aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, = January 09,=20 2002 10:33 PM
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject:=20 chain

hey guys, just started this great hobby of = stained glass=20 and i think i've found my nitch!  but there are no classes, etc = in my=20 area so i've learned with each piece and through you guys on this = wonderful=20 site.  here is my question:  what the heck is "ball = chain" =20 i've read it on patterns and here but am not really sure what kind of = chain it=20 is.  thanks guys and glad you are all back up and=20 posting!

Jules
------=_NextPart_000_0006_01C199C1.05ADD220-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Jan 10 14:33:40 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 10 Jan 2002 14:18:31 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: hotmail.com!theglassparrott From: "Cheryl Parrott" To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/html Subject: re: full spectrum lights Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 12:08:09 -0800 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@hotmail.com> Precedence: bulk

I have full spectrum lights in my shop.   I purchased a lamp a year ago to help with Seasonal Affective Disorder (S.A.D.)  Living in the Pacific Northwest with our dreary long winters doesn't help with the disorder either.

I find the lamp very helpful.  It is expensive though due to all the components that go into the lamp.

I decided to buy full spectrum lights bulbs for my shop light and my light box.  I went to the Indoor Sun Shop in Seattle.  They sell lamps and bulbs. 

There were so many different bulbs to choose from depending upon the various colors in the light spectrum.   Because I have a few plants in my shop area I wanted lights that would aid in the growth of the plants.  I




Cheryl Parrott
The Glass Parrott
425 776-8618

 


Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com.
---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Jan 10 15:14:39 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 10 Jan 2002 15:01:20 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: stratus.com!Charlie.Spitzer From: "Spitzer, Charlie" To: "'glass@bungi.com'" Content-Type: text/plain Subject: RE: chain Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 06:38:02 -0700 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@stratus.com> Precedence: bulk change made out of little balls. look at pull chain for ceiling fans for example. regards, charlie phx, az -----Original Message----- From: Bergju@aol.com [mailto:Bergju@aol.com] Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2002 8:33 PM To: glass@bungi.com Subject: chain hey guys, just started this great hobby of stained glass and i think i've found my nitch! but there are no classes, etc in my area so i've learned with each piece and through you guys on this wonderful site. here is my question: what the heck is "ball chain" i've read it on patterns and here but am not really sure what kind of chain it is. thanks guys and glad you are all back up and posting! Jules ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Jan 10 21:05:24 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 10 Jan 2002 20:33:39 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: aol.com!LByrne21 From: LByrne21@aol.com To: robin@autop.com, glass@bungi.com Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_13.4c08333.296faa0c_boundary" Subject: Re: grinder info Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 21:38:04 EST Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com> Precedence: bulk --part1_13.4c08333.296faa0c_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 01/10/2002 2:14:23 AM Eastern Standard Time, robin@autop.com writes: > Wow! what a great idea. Have been in stained glass for a looooong time. Was contemplating getting the used fish tank.....eventually..... but like this one better. Am going out tomorrow to "buy-the-bin" Thank you..... --part1_13.4c08333.296faa0c_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 01/10/2002 2:14:23 AM Eastern Standard Time, robin@autop.com writes:


http://www.autosalvageyards.com/glass.htm


Wow! what a great idea.  Have been in stained glass for a looooong time.  Was contemplating getting the used fish tank.....eventually..... but like this one better. Am going out tomorrow to "buy-the-bin"  Thank you..... --part1_13.4c08333.296faa0c_boundary-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Jan 10 21:38:12 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 10 Jan 2002 21:26:31 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: doorpi.net!mmam5 From: mmam5@doorpi.net To: kaye@GSA-ORSP.CROWN.NWU.EDU Content-Type: text/plain Subject: Re: grinder info Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 17:06:00 EST Message-ID: <200201102206.g0AM65Y89851@mail2.netacc.net> Precedence: bulk Yes - veeery Slick! I've been so far behind on my "space". I still keep my scraps in thick paper envelopes! HA! Target/Wal-mart here I come! Thanks! Marci On Thu, 10 Jan 2002 09:44:55 CST 6CDT "Kaye Sodt" wrote: > Pretty slick, Robin. I've done much the same except with a > cardboard box. When it gets too funky, I toss and replace it. > Yours is certainly more attractive. Hafta think about > upgrading.... > > Kaye > ------------------------------------------- > since were on grinders, here is what i did with mine. > http://www.autosalvageyards.com/glass.htm > > A > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Jan 11 11:35:15 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 11 Jan 2002 11:27:25 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: mediaone.net!frvesey From: "Francis R. Vesey" To: "FUN - Stained Glass Forum" Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Hello Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 12:39:14 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@mediaone.net> Precedence: bulk Hello Everyone, I am new to your list and returning to Stained Glass after several years of absense. I have a few questions. What is the best way to prepare your glass for cutting? Do you cut a pattern and draw the design on the glass? OR Do you trace the design with a pattern under the glass? If you draw the design on the glass. What kind of pen do you use? Last question. Has anyone used the Toyo Tap Wheel Cutter? And what was your experience like? Thanks in advance. Frank ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Jan 11 12:06:38 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 11 Jan 2002 11:42:12 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: autop.com!robin From: "Robin Ellison - Auto And Parts, LLC" To: Glass Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: grinder info Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 09:05:35 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@autop.com> Organization: Auto and Parts.Com Precedence: bulk glad to here everyone thought it was a good idea. i thought of it on my first lesson, took it at a shop and when they had me grind my pieces glass bits were stick to the sheet rock on the wall and everything else, it works great too when you put just a little too much water and it flows over. i did not cut a hole in the back for my cord and now i am glad since i think bits of glass would have managed to get out of that hole also. and if you get the shoe boxes for the scraps be sure they stack flat on each other some brands have rounded tops. and buy alot. since next time you go back they may not have that kind. best to everyone robin -- ******************************************************** Thank You Robin Ellison Auto & Parts... http://www.autoandparts.com 1-888-977-1999 Automotive Internet Services that get RESULTS !! Auto & Parts provides internet solutions exclusively for the Auto Recycling Industry. Offering used part locating systems for buying & selling , web site design, hosting and maintenance at a reasonable cost. AOL FRIENDLY LINK Auto And Parts ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Jan 11 13:08:44 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 11 Jan 2002 12:05:31 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: aol.com!GlassLites From: GlassLites@aol.com To: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Subject: Re: Glass Etching...! Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 13:07:13 EST Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com> Precedence: bulk Paul, I can offer a suggestion. I have not done this, but have the equipment and it is on my to-do list of things to try. If you are only doing a couple of projects this may be too expensive. However, if you are willing to spend about $125 the Riso Print Gocco screen printer is a way to go. I first heard about this from one of my catalogs (can't recall which off the top of my head) that sells glass etching creams. I have since seen it mentioned in several web sites from around the world. The Print Gocco is a small in-expensive silkscreen machine. You "print" your pattern onto the screen through a photo process (all equipment and a starter set of screens come with the kit). You then apply your screen to the glass and apply the etching cream. Remove the screen. Wash the glass and your job is done. With this system you can make some pretty small letters, lines, etc. I originally got the Gocco to use as a printer, but when I saw it suggested for etching I was really glad I got the unit. Now I need time to try it! If you get around to trying it before me, please let me know how it turns out. Seems to me it should work. Cheryl Lowe in NJ Glass Lites Studio In a message dated Thu, 10 Jan 2002 5:20:20 AM Eastern Standard Time, paul s writes: > Hi, > > In my new stained glass course I also learnt how to etch on glass with > etching compound. We use Etchall, down here. > > The procedure I learnt is to clean the glass with a cleaning fluid, then > cover both sides of it with clear contact, sandwiching the glass inside. > > Then place the picture underneath the glass and trace around it with a > craft knife, remove the contact that you dont want, clean the glass again, > then apply with etchall...etc... > > But my question is, I am trying to do smallish intricate cutting on the > clear contact, such as letters of a person's name on the glass. And it is > difficult to neatly remove the contact without taking off pieces that I > want left there..!! > > Any suggestions on a better method for intricate cutting....?? > > Paul.......from Aus...... > > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Jan 11 13:12:33 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 11 Jan 2002 11:42:12 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: autop.com!robin From: "Robin Ellison - Auto And Parts, LLC" To: Glass Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: grinder info Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 09:05:35 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@autop.com> Organization: Auto and Parts.Com Precedence: bulk glad to here everyone thought it was a good idea. i thought of it on my first lesson, took it at a shop and when they had me grind my pieces glass bits were stick to the sheet rock on the wall and everything else, it works great too when you put just a little too much water and it flows over. i did not cut a hole in the back for my cord and now i am glad since i think bits of glass would have managed to get out of that hole also. and if you get the shoe boxes for the scraps be sure they stack flat on each other some brands have rounded tops. and buy alot. since next time you go back they may not have that kind. best to everyone robin -- ******************************************************** Thank You Robin Ellison Auto & Parts... http://www.autoandparts.com 1-888-977-1999 Automotive Internet Services that get RESULTS !! Auto & Parts provides internet solutions exclusively for the Auto Recycling Industry. Offering used part locating systems for buying & selling , web site design, hosting and maintenance at a reasonable cost. AOL FRIENDLY LINK Auto And Parts ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Jan 11 14:07:50 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 11 Jan 2002 14:01:47 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: home.com!gunnx4 From: Suzanne Gunn To: "Francis R. Vesey" Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: Re: Hello Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 14:15:49 -0600 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@mediaone.net>> Organization: glassdancer Precedence: bulk Hiya Frank, Welcome back to glass. I wash my glass prior to cutting, cause my glass has a tendency to get nasty dusty dirty. I use a toyo tc-21 the tap wheel cutter, and it is my favorite cutter. It fits well in my hand (adjusted for me) and makes life much easier on my hand. Prior to that cutter, I used a brass toyo tc10, then had surgery from cutting glass all day with it (developed carpul tunnel syndrome). I lay my glass on top of my cartoon and cut that way. I find it to be the most accurate way for me to cut my glass. If I cannot see the pattern under the glass I will make a template for that only. Suzanne "Francis R. Vesey" wrote: > > Hello Everyone, > > I am new to your list and returning to Stained Glass after several years of > absense. > > I have a few questions. > What is the best way to prepare your glass for cutting? > Do you cut a pattern and draw the design on the glass? > OR > Do you trace the design with a pattern under the glass? > > If you draw the design on the glass. What kind of pen do you use? > > Last question. Has anyone used the Toyo Tap Wheel Cutter? And what was your > experience like? > > Thanks in advance. > > Frank > > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Jan 11 14:35:10 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 11 Jan 2002 14:24:21 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: aol.com!TheWrightLight From: TheWrightLight@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_42.206e4985.2970b85e_boundary" Subject: instaltion Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 16:51:26 EST Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com> Precedence: bulk --part1_42.206e4985.2970b85e_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have been an instructor and make items for friends and family but have been asked to do a couple sidelights for money. They aren't the actual sidelights but panels to hang inside over the sidelights. The sidelights a clear and she wants to make it so no one can see in. They are about 7" by 35" and I want to assemble using brass came. There are only going to be 3 pieces on each side with 2 joints and surrounded by came. I have only worked with the foil method before. Do I need to putty something like this? She wants them to hang and not blow in the wind when the door is opened but she also wants to be able to move them to look outside. The mold around the sidelights is made out of plastic and I was told I couldn't screw anything in that ,that I would have to suspend them from above the molding where there is wood. How to I keep them from banging on the inside or in other words how would I fasten them at the bottom in such a way they could be moved when she wants to look out her window? Hope I have made myself clear. Thanks, Maggie --part1_42.206e4985.2970b85e_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have been an instructor and make items for friends and family but have been asked to do  a couple sidelights for money.  They aren't the actual sidelights but panels to hang inside over the sidelights. The sidelights a clear and she wants to make it so no one can see in.  They are about 7" by 35" and I  want to assemble using brass came.
There are only going to be 3 pieces on each side with 2 joints and surrounded by came. I have only worked with the foil method before. Do I need to putty something like this?  She wants them to hang  and not blow in the wind when the door is opened
but she also wants to be able to move them to look outside.  The mold around the sidelights is made out of plastic and I was told I couldn't screw anything in that ,that I would have to suspend them from above the molding where there is wood. How to I keep them from banging on the inside or in other words how would I fasten them at the bottom in such a way they could be moved when she wants to look out her window?  Hope I have made myself clear.
Thanks,  Maggie --part1_42.206e4985.2970b85e_boundary-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Jan 11 17:36:07 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 11 Jan 2002 17:29:55 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles From: "Christie A. Wood" To: Bungi Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: instaltion Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 20:25:03 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com> Precedence: bulk Well, well....here goes..... I have installed, oh, I can't count up the number of sidelights. Most of them are of this sort - plastic front and back "frames" held together around the insullated glass "sandwich" in the middle which fits between the door jamb and a stud. They are manufactured by a couple of USA companies, but the majority I've worked with are Stanley Doors. What I do is unscrew the sidelight. Hopefully the builder installed this sidelight correctly and put the screw side on the inside of the building, and not the outside. However, if they (sorry 'bout the pun) screwed up, you can always de-install the unit and flip it around so that the screws ARE on the inside. You will find them to always be 7" x 36" measuring the existing insullated glass. You can build your stained glass sidelight so that it is also exactly 7" x 36". Now install (i.e. glue) your sidelight to the inside frame, and reinstall using the same screws. BE CAREFUL that you DO NOT over tighten the screws! Remember, you just increased the thickness of the overall sidelight by the thickness of your panel!!! If you overtighten the screws, your stained glass panel will BREAK somewhere (been there...done that....repaired it). After you've rescrewed the plastic "frame" with your sidelight back into place, you will have a gap running around the inside perimeter of the sidelight. Caulk or putty or silicon (my favorite) this gap, and let the customer paint it if they want. None of my customers have ever painted it, since they can't even tell there is an 1/8" gap there. You're done. No swinging and swaying in the breeze. But if your client wants to use the sidelight as a peephole....you will have to DESIGN in a clear peephole. Done that too. Message text written by INTERNET:TheWrightLight@aol.com >I have been an instructor and make items for friends and family but have= been = asked to do a couple sidelights for money. They aren't the actual = sidelights but panels to hang inside over the sidelights. The sidelights = a = clear and she wants to make it so no one can see in. They are about 7" b= y = 35" and I want to assemble using brass came. There are only going to be 3 pieces on each side with 2 joints and surrounded = by came. I have only worked with the foil method before. Do I need to put= ty something like this? She wants them to hang and not blow in the wind wh= en the door is opened but she also wants to be able to move them to look outside. The mold around = the sidelights is made out of plastic and I was told I couldn't screw = anything in that ,that I would have to suspend them from above the moldin= g = where there is wood. How to I keep them from banging on the inside or in = other words how would I fasten them at the bottom in such a way they coul= d be = moved when she wants to look out her window? Hope I have made myself clear. Thanks, Maggie< ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Jan 11 20:17:12 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 11 Jan 2002 20:07:01 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: doorpi.net!mmam5 From: "Marci" To: "Francis R. Vesey" , Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Re: Hello Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 20:12:52 -0600 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@doorpi.net> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@mediaone.net>> Precedence: bulk Hi Frank! Welcome to the group. I usually clean up my glass to get the dust and finger prints off. I've gotten into the habit of just drawing the pattern onto the glass. Some jell pens work OK. But I have the best luck with gold/silver metallic markers - slim or fine tip. They usually cost a bit more, but the pattern stays on well even thru grinding. I just recently came across some cool stuff called Mark Stay (http://www.stainedglasswarehouse.com/), professional mark perserver. You can use a felt tip marker for making your pattern then apply a thin film of Mark Stay with your finger. It will keep the pattern visible thru the grinding process. It washes off with soap and water. If you can get a light box (or make one) then you can trace the pattern thru just about any glass. Good Luck! Marci Martin Designs ----- Original Message ----- From: "Francis R. Vesey" To: "FUN - Stained Glass Forum" Sent: Friday, January 11, 2002 11:39 AM Subject: Hello > Hello Everyone, > > I am new to your list and returning to Stained Glass after several years of > absense. > > I have a few questions. > What is the best way to prepare your glass for cutting? > Do you cut a pattern and draw the design on the glass? > OR > Do you trace the design with a pattern under the glass? > > If you draw the design on the glass. What kind of pen do you use? > > Last question. Has anyone used the Toyo Tap Wheel Cutter? And what was your > experience like? > > Thanks in advance. > > Frank > > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Jan 11 23:25:01 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 11 Jan 2002 23:07:06 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: slonet.org!edupjohn From: "Peggy W. Johnsen" To: Bergju@aol.com Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Subject: Re: chain Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 19:19:33 -0800 (PST) Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@slonet.org> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>> Precedence: bulk Jules, you probably know ball chain better as dogtag chain. Ball chain is made up of balls chained together. PJ ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Jan 12 01:06:46 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sat, 12 Jan 2002 00:39:21 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard From: Steve Richard To: "Francis R. Vesey" Subject: Re: Hello Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 22:45:32 +0000 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@verrier> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@mediaone.net>> Precedence: bulk Frank, I can answer only one part of your questions. I cut the glass directly on top of the cartoon. If the glass is too dark, I use a light box, if it is totally opaque (rarely) I cut the pattern with a scalpel and draw around it with a permanent felt tip pen, then cut on the inside of the line as with the cartoon. Of course, I am doing leaded panels. But it works for copper foil too. Steve In message <1970Jan1.000.0@mediaone.net>, Francis R. Vesey writes >Hello Everyone, > >I am new to your list and returning to Stained Glass after several years of >absense. > >I have a few questions. >What is the best way to prepare your glass for cutting? >Do you cut a pattern and draw the design on the glass? >OR >Do you trace the design with a pattern under the glass? > >If you draw the design on the glass. What kind of pen do you use? > >Last question. Has anyone used the Toyo Tap Wheel Cutter? And what was your >experience like? > >Thanks in advance. > >Frank > >---- >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com >To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass -- Steve Richard Verrier Art Glass Ltd s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Jan 12 01:18:58 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sat, 12 Jan 2002 00:40:58 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard From: Steve Richard To: "Christie A. Wood" Subject: Re: Devit Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 22:56:08 +0000 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@verrier> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com>> Precedence: bulk I, Of course, have a rather old fashioned view of the devitrification issue. 1. If the glass is so sensitive, maybe we shouldn't be using it 2. Borax dissolved in water and sprayed on the glass works as well as the expensive commercial stuff. (it is a flux that reduces the melting temperature of glass in sufficient quantities, and in paints and enamels. Too much though, makes the fired paint water soluble over a period of about 5-6 decades.) 3. It is very difficult to get an exactly even or complete cover of de-vit on the glass, giving in patchy results. 4. Test every piece of glass before using it in the main project. Then you will know whether you need to take any precautions. But that is just a cranky old man speaking. Steve In message <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com>, Christie A. Wood writes >Message text written by Glenna Rand >>I would like to know more about "devit" too. >Where do you buy it?< > >Devit solution can be ordered/purchased from most >stained glass retail suppliers. Many will not have it in >stock, but can order it in their next wholesale purchase. > >Christie A. Wood >Art Glass Ensembles >Denton, TX >---- >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com >To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass -- Steve Richard Verrier Art Glass Ltd s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Jan 12 15:36:12 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sat, 12 Jan 2002 15:06:50 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: yahoo.com!beadnik From: Joan To: GlassLites@aol.com, glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: Re: Glass Etching...! Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 17:16:04 -0800 (PST) Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>> Precedence: bulk Cheryl... Thank you sooo much for posting this info. I have one of those Riso Gocco machines... even got extra screens. Never thought to use it to etch my glass, though. How do you get the screen to adhere tightly enough to the glass to get nice crisp lines on the images, though. For those of you not familiar with this machine, you can make a silk screen really easily using any image (or letters, etc.) that have been done on a regular black and white copier. The screens are really easy to make. I haven't used that machine in a couple of years... guess I'll be dusting it off. If anyone has used this to etch glass, I'd really love to hear more! Joan --- GlassLites@aol.com wrote: > Paul, > > > I can offer a suggestion. I have not done this, but > have the equipment and it is on my to-do list of > things to try. > > If you are only doing a couple of projects this may > be too expensive. However, if you are willing to > spend about $125 the Riso Print Gocco screen printer > is a way to go. > > I first heard about this from one of my catalogs > (can't recall which off the top of my head) that > sells glass etching creams. I have since seen it > mentioned in several web sites from around the > world. > > The Print Gocco is a small in-expensive silkscreen > machine. You "print" your pattern onto the screen > through a photo process (all equipment and a starter > set of screens come with the kit). You then apply > your screen to the glass and apply the etching > cream. Remove the screen. Wash the glass and your > job is done. With this system you can make some > pretty small letters, lines, etc. > > I originally got the Gocco to use as a printer, but > when I saw it suggested for etching I was really > glad I got the unit. Now I need time to try it! > > If you get around to trying it before me, please let > me know how it turns out. Seems to me it should > work. > > Cheryl Lowe in NJ > Glass Lites Studio > > > > In a message dated Thu, 10 Jan 2002 5:20:20 AM > Eastern Standard Time, paul s writes: > > > Hi, > > > > In my new stained glass course I also learnt how > to etch on glass with > > etching compound. We use Etchall, down here. > > > > The procedure I learnt is to clean the glass with > a cleaning fluid, then > > cover both sides of it with clear contact, > sandwiching the glass inside. > > > > Then place the picture underneath the glass and > trace around it with a > > craft knife, remove the contact that you dont > want, clean the glass again, > > then apply with etchall...etc... > > > > But my question is, I am trying to do smallish > intricate cutting on the > > clear contact, such as letters of a person's name > on the glass. And it is > > difficult to neatly remove the contact without > taking off pieces that I > > want left there..!! > > > > Any suggestions on a better method for intricate > cutting....?? > > > > Paul.......from Aus...... > > > > ---- > > For subscription changes, please mail to: > glass-request@bungi.com > > To send to the list, please mail to: > glass@bungi.com > > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > > > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: > glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: > glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail! http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/ ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Jan 12 23:31:49 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sat, 12 Jan 2002 23:14:39 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: ns.sympatico.ca!heinze.g From: Gail Heinzemilne To: bungi Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="------------A6389302DA733A82B61FB679" Subject: Pool Table Lamps Date: Tue, 07 Jan 1997 20:01:07 -0400 Message-ID: <1997Jan7.1617.0@ns.sympatico.ca> Organization: Glass with Class Precedence: bulk This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------A6389302DA733A82B61FB679 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I am about to start a 32" pool table lamp and would like to add a bar across the top for reinforcement. There will be three spiders / openings. Where and how should this be placed and what type of bar do you recommend? Thanks guys! Gail in Nova Scotia --------------A6389302DA733A82B61FB679 Content-Type: text/x-vcard; charset=us-ascii; name="vcard.vcf" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Description: Card for Gail Heinze-Milne Content-Disposition: attachment; filename="vcard.vcf" begin: vcard fn: Gail Heinze-Milne n: Heinze-Milne;Gail org: Glass with Class email;internet: heinze.g@ns.sympatico.ca note: http://www.gathering-of-artists.ca/glass/gailHM/profile.html x-mozilla-cpt: ;0 x-mozilla-html: FALSE version: 2.1 end: vcard --------------A6389302DA733A82B61FB679-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Jan 13 15:04:14 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 13 Jan 2002 14:58:12 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: digitalexp.com!riverlily From: "RIVERLILY Jeff/PJ Trowell" To: Content-Type: multipart/alternative; Subject: New Address Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 14:06:47 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@digitalexp.com> Organization: Jeff/PJ Trowell Precedence: bulk This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0050_01C19C3B.8A364320 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi I've been trying to track McKay International as a supplier of Jack = Frost Glass Etching solution. Finally found their address/# thru bungi = and called to get no number at this time> Been trying for months to find = them. They were or are in NY city. Can u Help at all?=20 Jeff at Riverlily Glass=20 ------=_NextPart_000_0050_01C19C3B.8A364320 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hi
I've been trying to track McKay = International as a=20 supplier of Jack Frost Glass Etching solution. Finally found their = address/#=20 thru bungi and called to get no number at this time> Been trying for = months=20 to find them. They were or are in NY city. Can u Help at all? =
Jeff at Riverlily Glass =
------=_NextPart_000_0050_01C19C3B.8A364320-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Jan 14 17:03:55 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 14 Jan 2002 17:01:11 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: aol.com!CSBDOYON From: CSBDOYON@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_12e.ac9dff5.2974b0d0_boundary" Subject: New email address Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 17:08:16 EST Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com> Precedence: bulk --part1_12e.ac9dff5.2974b0d0_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Please chnge my address immediately to csbdoyon@nni.com. Thank you. --part1_12e.ac9dff5.2974b0d0_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Please chnge my address immediately to csbdoyon@nni.com. Thank you. --part1_12e.ac9dff5.2974b0d0_boundary-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Jan 15 09:32:37 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 15 Jan 2002 09:20:27 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: aol.com!Soquelie From: Soquelie@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_7a.20b2bc87.2975b0a2_boundary" Subject: Mailing list Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 11:19:46 EST Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com> Precedence: bulk --part1_7a.20b2bc87.2975b0a2_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Please add my name to the mailing list. Thank you. --part1_7a.20b2bc87.2975b0a2_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Please add my name to the mailing list.  Thank you. --part1_7a.20b2bc87.2975b0a2_boundary-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Jan 15 10:02:27 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 15 Jan 2002 09:54:29 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: ptd.net!pikachu6 From: "pikachu6" To: Content-Type: multipart/alternative; Subject: metal sculpture and stained glass Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 12:02:33 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@ptd.net> Precedence: bulk This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_002C_01C19DBC.83C93A60 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi, am combining stained glass with desk top size metal sculpture.Need = advice on metal cutting, been advised to purchase plasma = cutter($1200.00) bottom of the line, been cutting metal by hand( needed = recent surgery to repair damage done).It really is a nice combination. = Any advice would be appreciated. Thank you Claudia ------=_NextPart_000_002C_01C19DBC.83C93A60 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hi, am combining stained glass with  desk top = size metal=20 sculpture.Need advice on  metal cutting, been advised to purchase = plasma=20 cutter($1200.00) bottom of the line, been cutting metal by hand( needed = recent=20 surgery to repair damage done).It really is a nice combination. Any = advice would=20 be=20 appreciated.          &= nbsp; =20 Thank you  Claudia
------=_NextPart_000_002C_01C19DBC.83C93A60-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Jan 15 15:32:08 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 15 Jan 2002 15:27:45 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: ns.sympatico.ca!heinze.g From: heinze.g@ns.sympatico.ca (Gail HeinzeMiline) To: FuchsiaFan@aol.com, glass@bungi.com Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="------------75C01DC1390E79F78A538458" Subject: Re: Pool Table Lamps Date: Thu, 09 Jan 1997 07:31:46 -0400 Message-ID: <1997Jan9.33146.0@ns.sympatico.ca> References: <<16e.71a5723.29735e89@aol.com>> Organization: Glass with Class Precedence: bulk This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------75C01DC1390E79F78A538458 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Thanks , Mike. Where can I get those? Have you done this before? Gail in Nova Scotia FuchsiaFan@aol.com wrote: > Gail, > > Brass welding rods work well for reinforcing. > > Mike in Spokane --------------75C01DC1390E79F78A538458 Content-Type: text/x-vcard; charset=us-ascii; name="vcard.vcf" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Description: Card for Gail Heinze-Milne Content-Disposition: attachment; filename="vcard.vcf" begin: vcard fn: Gail Heinze-Milne n: Heinze-Milne;Gail org: Glass with Class email;internet: heinze.g@ns.sympatico.ca note: http://www.gathering-of-artists.ca/glass/gailHM/profile.html x-mozilla-cpt: ;0 x-mozilla-html: FALSE version: 2.1 end: vcard --------------75C01DC1390E79F78A538458-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Jan 15 16:17:37 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 15 Jan 2002 16:01:39 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: aol.com!CSBDOYON From: CSBDOYON@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_8a.127b253e.29761748_boundary" Subject: Change of email Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 18:37:44 EST Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com> Precedence: bulk --part1_8a.127b253e.29761748_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Please change my email address to csbdoyon@nni.com. Thank you --part1_8a.127b253e.29761748_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Please change my email address to          csbdoyon@nni.com. Thank you --part1_8a.127b253e.29761748_boundary-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Jan 15 17:02:06 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 15 Jan 2002 16:53:02 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: att.net!rhdudley From: Richard Dudley To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: Wish to become member Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 10:44:44 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@att.net> Precedence: bulk I an active in stained glass in the Orlando area and would like to join the group. Ruth Dudley ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Jan 15 17:49:28 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 15 Jan 2002 17:35:28 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: home.com!esavad From: "Mike Savad" To: "pikachu6" , Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: RE: metal sculpture and stained glass Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 20:34:04 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@ptd.net>> Precedence: bulk a plasma cutter is pretty messy and is really only good for exact cuts on thick metal. if your not planning on doing alot of metal work, i'd start with a oxy-acetaline (sp) setup. you can blow through the metal pretty fast and braze with it too. plasma cutting is loud and blows hot metal and dust everywhere. and if your not careful, it's real easy to damage the head. ---Mike Savad -----Original Message----- From: pikachu6 [mailto:pikachu6@ptd.net] Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2002 12:03 PM To: glass@bungi.com Subject: metal sculpture and stained glass This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_002C_01C19DBC.83C93A60 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi, am combining stained glass with desk top size metal sculpture.Need = advice on metal cutting, been advised to purchase plasma = cutter($1200.00) bottom of the line, been cutting metal by hand( needed = recent surgery to repair damage done).It really is a nice combination. = Any advice would be appreciated. Thank you Claudia ------=_NextPart_000_002C_01C19DBC.83C93A60 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hi, am combining stained glass with  desk top = size metal=20 sculpture.Need advice on  metal cutting, been advised to purchase = plasma=20 cutter($1200.00) bottom of the line, been cutting metal by hand( needed = recent=20 surgery to repair damage done).It really is a nice combination. Any = advice would=20 be=20 appreciated.          &= nbsp; =20 Thank you  Claudia
------=_NextPart_000_002C_01C19DBC.83C93A60-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Jan 15 21:00:37 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 15 Jan 2002 20:51:51 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: one.net!gwood From: "Gregg Wood" To: "pikachu6" , Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Re: metal sculpture and stained glass Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 18:22:47 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@one.net> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@ptd.net>> Precedence: bulk What type of metal? What thickness of metal? What overall size? What kind of shapes? Plasmas is truly the way to go. You can get a smallish one for less than $750 (requires external compressed air Hobart Air Force 250) (or $950 with internal compressor Hobart Air Force 250A) Other options are oxy-acetylene torch but falls into the category high maintenance, dangerous in novice or careless hands but it IS much cheaper. There is always metal cutting bandsaw. Not much cheaper than plasma, slow to cut, limited on overall size and greatly reduced flexibility. No easy AND inexpensive way to cut plate metal. :( -G ----- Original Message ----- From: "pikachu6" To: Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2002 12:02 PM Subject: metal sculpture and stained glass > This is a multi-part message in MIME format. > > ------=_NextPart_000_002C_01C19DBC.83C93A60 > Content-Type: text/plain; > charset="iso-8859-1" > Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable > > Hi, am combining stained glass with desk top size metal sculpture.Need = > advice on metal cutting, been advised to purchase plasma = > cutter($1200.00) bottom of the line, been cutting metal by hand( needed = > recent surgery to repair damage done).It really is a nice combination. = > Any advice would be appreciated. Thank you Claudia > > ------=_NextPart_000_002C_01C19DBC.83C93A60 > Content-Type: text/html; > charset="iso-8859-1" > Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable > > > > http-equiv=3DContent-Type> > > > > >
Hi, am combining stained glass with  desk top = > size metal=20 > sculpture.Need advice on  metal cutting, been advised to purchase = > plasma=20 > cutter($1200.00) bottom of the line, been cutting metal by hand( needed = > recent=20 > surgery to repair damage done).It really is a nice combination. Any = > advice would=20 > be=20 > appreciated.          &= > nbsp; =20 > Thank you  Claudia
> > ------=_NextPart_000_002C_01C19DBC.83C93A60-- > > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Jan 16 19:33:10 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 16 Jan 2002 19:21:02 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: att.net!rhdudley From: Richard Dudley To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: Roy Quintal Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 13:55:06 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@att.net> Precedence: bulk Can anyone give us an address or email address for Mr. Roy Quintal? Thanks, R. Dudley ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Jan 16 22:56:09 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 16 Jan 2002 22:53:35 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: hotmail.com!securenet443881 From: To: Content-Type: multipart/mixed; Subject: No Other Spy/Security Software like this.. Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 22:51:55 -0800 (PST) Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@hotmail.com> Precedence: bulk ------=_NextPart_000_00B4_38E10C2B.B7302B25 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64 PGh0bWw+DQo8Ym9keSBiZ2NvbG9yPSIjRkZGRkZGIj4NCjxwPiZuYnNwOzwv cD4NCjxwPjxmb250IGZhY2U9IkFyaWFsLCBIZWx2ZXRpY2EsIHNhbnMtc2Vy aWYiIHNpemU9IjQiPjE2IEFtYXppbmcgPGk+PGI+U3RlYWx0aDwvYj48L2k+ IA0KICBTb2Z0d2FyZSBUaXRsZXMgb24gQ0Q8L2ZvbnQ+PC9wPg0KPHA+PGEg aHJlZj0iaHR0cDovLzY0LjExOC41LjM4L2NvbXB1dGVyZmluL3NlY3VyZWNk LyI+PGltZyBzcmM9Imh0dHA6Ly82NC4xMTguNS4zOC9jb21wdXRlcmZpbi9z ZWN1cmVjZC8xMnRoLmdpZiIgYm9yZGVyPSIwIiB3aWR0aD0iMTU2IiBoZWln aHQ9IjEwOSI+PC9hPjwvcD4NCjxwIGNsYXNzPSJ0ZXh0MSI+PGI+RXllcyBP bmx5IENvbmZpZGVudGlhbCBDRDwvYj4gc29mdHdhcmUgY29sbGVjdGlvbiBp bmNsdWRlcyANCiAgdGhlIG1vc3Qgc291Z2h0IGFmdGVyIHRpdGxlcywgdXRp bGl0aWVzIGFuZCBpbmZvcm1hdGlvbiBzb3VyY2VzIGF2YWlsYWJsZSBmb3Ig DQogIHRob3NlIHNlcmlvdXMgYWJvdXQgb25saW5lIGNvbmZpZGVudGlhbGl0 eSBhbmQgaW52ZXN0aWdhdGl2ZSBjYXBhYmlsaXRpZXMgb2YgDQogIHRoZSBJ bnRlcm5ldC4gPC9wPg0KPHAgY2xhc3M9InRleHQxIj5Nb25pdG9yIGFueSBQ QyAtIFJlbW90ZWx5ITwvcD4NCjxwIGNsYXNzPSJ0ZXh0MSI+PHNwYW4gY2xh c3M9InRleHQxIj5Qcm90ZWN0IHlvdXJzZWxmIC4uLnlvdXIgY2hpbGRyZW4g Li4ueW91ciANCiAgYnVzaW5lc3MuIDxicj4NCiAgU3RlYWx0aCAtIE1vbml0 b3IgLSBFbmNyeXB0IC0gSW52ZXN0aWdhdGU8L3NwYW4+PC9wPg0KPHAgY2xh c3M9InRleHQxIj48c3BhbiBjbGFzcz0idGV4dDEiPk9uZSBTVEVBTFRIIHNv ZnR3YXJlIHRpdGxlIGxldHMgeW91IGhhdmUgDQogIGFsbCBrZXlzdHJva2Vz IHJlY29yZGVkLCBsb2dnZWQsIGFuZCBzZWNyZXRseSBlbWFpbGVkIHRvIHlv dSEgLi4uYW5vdGhlciBzZW5kcyANCiAgeW91IHNjcmVlbiBzaG90cyEhPC9z cGFuPjwvcD4NCjxwPjxhIGhyZWY9Imh0dHA6Ly82NC4xMTguNS4zOC9jb21w dXRlcmZpbi9zZWN1cmVjZC8iIGNsYXNzPSJ0ZXh0MSI+WW91IGhhdmUgdG8g c2VlIHRoaXMhJm5ic3A7DQpDTElDSyBIRVJFIE5PVyE8L2E+PC9wPg0KPHA+ Jm5ic3A7PC9wPg0KPHA+Jm5ic3A7PC9wPg0KPHA+PGZvbnQgZmFjZT0iVmVy ZGFuYSwgQXJpYWwsIEhlbHZldGljYSwgc2Fucy1zZXJpZiIgc2l6ZT0iMSI+ UGxlYXNlIGNhbGwgMS04ODgtMjQ4LTQ1NTAgDQogIHRvIHJlcG9ydCBhbnkg cHJvYmxlbSB3aXRoIHRoZSB3ZWIgc2l0ZSBvciB0byByZXF1ZXN0IGluZm9y bWF0aW9uIG9yIG1haWwgbGlzdCANCiAgcmVtb3ZhbC4gVGhpcyBlbWFpbCBp cyBzZW50IG9ubHkgdG8gZXN0YWJsaXNoZWQgbGlzdHMuPC9mb250PjwvcD4N CjxwPiZuYnNwOzwvcD4NCjwvYm9keT4NCjwvaHRtbD4NCls2MjQ0QDRdDQo= ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Jan 18 05:03:24 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 18 Jan 2002 04:51:27 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: discover.earthlink.net!leslye2 From: Leslye To: Bungi Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: anyone there? Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 18:56:24 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@discover.earthlink.net> Organization: GlassWorks by Leslye Precedence: bulk Is anyone out there or have I been cut off of the list? Leslye ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Jan 18 07:25:16 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 18 Jan 2002 07:12:54 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: home.com!esavad From: "Mike Savad" To: "Leslye" , Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: RE: anyone there? Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 09:23:05 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@discover.earthlink.net>> Precedence: bulk i'm here, i just don't really have anything to say.... ---Mike Savad -----Original Message----- From: Leslye [mailto:leslye2@discover.earthlink.net] Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2002 6:56 PM To: Bungi Subject: anyone there? Is anyone out there or have I been cut off of the list? Leslye ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Jan 18 07:57:49 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 18 Jan 2002 07:32:05 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: doorpi.net!mmam5 From: mmam5@doorpi.net To: leslye2@discover.earthlink.net Content-Type: text/plain Subject: Re: anyone there? Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 9:28:47 EST Message-ID: <200201181428.g0IESqw08656@mail1.netacc.net> Precedence: bulk Hi Leslye! I think we're all busy working on projects - hmmmm we'll have to all post our cool things and let everyone see what we've all been up to! Myself, been so busy I haven't had time to update my website yet! Maybe next week! Have to go for now. :) Marci Martin Designs www.mmartindesigns.com On Thu, 17 Jan 2002 18:56:24 -0500 Leslye wrote: > Is anyone out there or have I been cut off of the list? > Leslye > > > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Jan 19 00:30:49 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sat, 19 Jan 2002 00:29:25 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: midwest.net!pipsplay From: "Cube" To: "Bungi Glass" Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: G-4 Grinder??!! Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 21:55:59 -0600 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@midwest.net> Precedence: bulk Hi, I am still new at this. as I've looked at grinders I've come across a G-4 Diamond Glass Grinder with 1" head. I couldn't find anything about it at www.glastar.com. Is anyone familiar with this model? Is it old and discontinued? Or what? Thanks, Cube ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Jan 19 09:31:04 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sat, 19 Jan 2002 09:12:27 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: home.com!gunnx4 From: Suzanne Gunn To: Cube Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: Re: G-4 Grinder??!! Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 08:09:11 -0600 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@midwest.net>> Organization: glassdancer Precedence: bulk I'd recommend glastar grinders. I use the G-8. I didnt see a G-4, but a G-14. I'd recommend you go ahead and spend a few more dollars and get the G-12 (the superstar 11). You'll be glad you have the two different grinding heads. Suzanne Cube wrote: > > Hi, I am still new at this. as I've looked at grinders I've come across a > G-4 Diamond Glass Grinder with 1" head. I couldn't find anything about it > at www.glastar.com. Is anyone familiar with this model? Is it old and > discontinued? Or what? > > Thanks, > > Cube > > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Jan 19 19:03:04 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sat, 19 Jan 2002 18:56:18 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: hotmail.com!theglassparrott From: "Cheryl Parrott" To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/html Subject: solder iron Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 14:55:35 -0800 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@hotmail.com> Precedence: bulk

Hi,

A friend of mine would like to purchase a used weller 100.  Does anyone have an extra iron they would  like to sell?  If so, how much.   you can email  her at catsareme1@aol.com   her name is Margie.

Thank you

Cheryl Parrott

The Glass Parrott
425 776-8618

 


Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com.
---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Jan 23 02:52:57 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 23 Jan 2002 02:43:04 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: shaw.ca!henco From: Darlene Hendler To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: panel prices Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 20:54:16 -0600 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@shaw.ca> Precedence: bulk Hi everyone, I have been a long time lurker and I know this question has been asked but I can't seem to access the archives. How much is reasonable to charge per square foot for a stained glass panel. Would there be an extra installation charge if it were to be installed? A friend has asked me to make a panel and I don't do this for a living. Thanks, in advance. Darlene ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Jan 23 08:02:17 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 23 Jan 2002 07:42:31 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: doorpi.net!mmam5 From: mmam5@doorpi.net To: henco@shaw.ca Content-Type: text/plain Subject: Re: panel prices Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 9:48:00 EST Message-ID: <200201231448.g0NEm5W41631@mail2.netacc.net> Precedence: bulk Hi Darlene, It depends on how much you want to charge. The stained glass Shop near my home charges up to $150 a square foot. But they have to take into account their vast overhead - store, stock, employees, etc. I charge a bit on the cheaper side $85-$95 a square foot. I'm in it for the love of the hobby and to make a few bucks for fun stuff. My overhead is low and since I have a regular 8-5 job, 3 kids and a husband, I take up to 8 weeks to complete bigger projects. I charge extra for wood framing and for shipping. Many of my sales lately have been over the internet and in different states, so I haven't had to install the windows myself. But I do let the clients know different ways they can install them. My windows aren't insulated, so they're put in front of an existing window and held in place by hanging from hooks or trim work of some sort. . .which the client either does on their own or has their favorite contractor friend do for them. Hope this helps you out a bit. Good luck on the project! Marci Martin Designs www.mmartindesigns.com On Tue, 22 Jan 2002 20:54:16 -0600 Darlene Hendler wrote: > Hi everyone, > > I have been a long time lurker and I know this question has been > asked > but I can't seem to access the archives. > How much is reasonable to charge per square foot for a stained > glass > panel. Would there be an extra installation charge if it were to > be > installed? A friend has asked me to make a panel and I don't do > this > for a living. > Thanks, in advance. > Darlene > > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Jan 23 17:17:28 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 23 Jan 2002 17:08:20 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: gte.net!rhpeltz From: "Robert H. Peltz" To: Content-Type: multipart/alternative; Subject: Computer Programs Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 09:18:29 -0800 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@gte.net> Precedence: bulk This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C1A3EE.EBE3BFC0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi All: Does anyone know of a good, user friendly, computer design program? = I ran accross a program called Glass 2000. Does anyone use this. Thanks = much Bob Peltz ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C1A3EE.EBE3BFC0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hi All:
 
    Does anyone know of = a good, user=20 friendly, computer design program? I ran accross a program called Glass = 2000.=20 Does anyone use this.  Thanks much
 
Bob Peltz
------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C1A3EE.EBE3BFC0-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Jan 24 07:31:19 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 24 Jan 2002 07:21:27 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: doorpi.net!mmam5 From: "Marci" To: "Robert H. Peltz" , Content-Type: multipart/alternative; Subject: Re: Computer Programs Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 20:29:24 -0600 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@doorpi.net> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@gte.net>> Precedence: bulk This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000C_01C1A44C.A5A4DF40 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi Bob, There are a few different programs out there. Two that I know of are = "Pattern Wizard" from SGDesigns.com http://sgdesigns.com/ and = Dragonfly Software, http://www.dfly.com/ This might be the one you're = thinking of "Glass Eye 2000". Both programs do the same thing and use = similar concepts: a.. Automatically numbers your glass pieces and can print out a numbered = glass legend.=20 a.. Multi-level undo and redo=20 a.. Rulers and measurement=20 a.. State-of-the-art help system=20 a.. Alignment tools=20 a.. Glass selection=20 a.. Importing graphics, photos or scanned images to trace over a.. Analysis to find design flaws=20 a.. Records how long a project has been worked on a.. Materials usage=20 a.. Printing=20 The main difference I've noticed between the two programs is the price . = .. DragonFly is about $99 for a basic version and $225 for the = professional. It can be downloaded for a trial version for 30 days.=20 Pattern Wizard is free for 24 hours of actual program use, and costs = $39.95. I've been using pattern wizard for a couple of years and have = done simple patterns to intricate patterns. Very easy to bring in = photos or scanned artwork to make patterns. And the glass simulation is = awesome. You can download thumbnails of sample glass from the glass = companies and see how it looks in your finished pattern. Makes seeing = how your finished product will look much easier and shopping for glass a = cinch! Good luck! Marci Martin Designs www.mmartindesigns.com ----- Original Message -----=20 From: "Robert H. Peltz" To: Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2002 11:18 AM Subject: Computer Programs > This is a multi-part message in MIME format. >=20 > ------=3D_NextPart_000_0007_01C1A3EE.EBE3BFC0 > Content-Type: text/plain; > charset=3D"iso-8859-1" > Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable >=20 > Hi All: >=20 > Does anyone know of a good, user friendly, computer design = program? =3D > I ran accross a program called Glass 2000. Does anyone use this. = Thanks =3D > much >=20 > Bob Peltz >=20 > ------=3D_NextPart_000_0007_01C1A3EE.EBE3BFC0 > Content-Type: text/html; > charset=3D"iso-8859-1" > Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable >=20 > > > charset=3D3Diso-8859-1"> > > > > >
Hi All:
>
 
>
    Does anyone = know of =3D > a good, user=3D20 > friendly, computer design program? I ran accross a program called = Glass =3D > 2000.=3D20 > Does anyone use this.  Thanks much
>
 
>
Bob = Peltz
>=20 > ------=3D_NextPart_000_0007_01C1A3EE.EBE3BFC0-- >=20 > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass >=20 ------=_NextPart_000_000C_01C1A44C.A5A4DF40 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hi Bob,
 
There are a few different programs out = there. =20 Two that I know of are "Pattern Wizard" = from SGDesigns.com =20 http://sgdesigns.com/ =20 and Dragonfly Software, http://www.dfly.com/   This might be the = one you're=20 thinking of  "Glass Eye 2000".  Both programs do the same = thing and=20 use similar concepts:
 
  • Automatically numbers your glass pieces and can = print out a=20 numbered glass legend.
  • Multi-level undo and redo
  • Rulers and measurement
  • State-of-the-art help system
  • Alignment tools
  • Glass selection
  • Importing graphics, photos or = scanned=20 images to trace over
  • Analysis to find design flaws
  • Records how long a project has been = worked on
  • Materials usage
  • Printing
    •  
    The main difference I've noticed = between the two=20 programs is the price . .. DragonFly is about $99 for a basic version = and $225=20 for the professional. It can be downloaded for a trial version for = 30=20 days. 
     
     Pattern Wizard is free for 24 = hours of actual=20 program use, and costs $39.95.  I've been using pattern wizard = for a=20 couple of years and have done simple patterns to intricate = patterns.  Very=20 easy to bring in photos or scanned artwork to make patterns. And the = glass=20 simulation is awesome. You can download thumbnails of sample glass from = the=20 glass companies and see how it looks in your finished pattern. Makes = seeing how=20 your finished product will look much easier and shopping for glass a=20 cinch!
     
    Good luck!
     
    Marci
    Martin Designs
    www.mmartindesigns.com<= /DIV>
     
     
     
     
     
    ----- Original Message -----
    From: "Robert H. Peltz" <rhpeltz@gte.net>
    To: <glass@bungi.com>
    Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2002 11:18 = AM
    Subject: Computer = Programs

    > This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
    > =
    >=20 ------=3D_NextPart_000_0007_01C1A3EE.EBE3BFC0
    > Content-Type:=20 text/plain;
    > charset=3D"iso-8859-1"
    > = Content-Transfer-Encoding:=20 quoted-printable
    >
    > Hi All:
    >
    > =    =20 Does anyone know of a good, user friendly, computer design program? = =3D
    > I=20 ran accross a program called Glass 2000. Does anyone use this.  = Thanks=20 =3D
    > much
    >
    > Bob Peltz
    >
    >=20 ------=3D_NextPart_000_0007_01C1A3EE.EBE3BFC0
    > Content-Type:=20 text/html;
    > charset=3D"iso-8859-1"
    > = Content-Transfer-Encoding:=20 quoted-printable
    >
    > <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD = HTML 4.0=20 Transitional//EN">
    > <HTML><HEAD>
    > <META=20 http-equiv=3D3DContent-Type content=3D3D"text/html; =3D
    >=20 charset=3D3Diso-8859-1">
    > <META content=3D3D"MSHTML = 5.50.4207.2601"=20 name=3D3DGENERATOR>
    > <STYLE></STYLE>
    >=20 </HEAD>
    > <BODY bgColor=3D3D#ffffff>
    > = <DIV><FONT=20 face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2>Hi All:</FONT></DIV>
    >=20 <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial=20 size=3D3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
    > = <DIV><FONT=20 face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Does anyone = know of=20 =3D
    > a good, user=3D20
    > friendly, computer design program? = I ran=20 accross a program called Glass =3D
    > 2000.=3D20
    > Does = anyone use=20 this.&nbsp; Thanks much</FONT></DIV>
    > = <DIV><FONT=20 face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
    > = <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2>Bob=20 Peltz</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
    > =
    >=20 ------=3D_NextPart_000_0007_01C1A3EE.EBE3BFC0--
    >
    > = ----
    > For=20 subscription changes, please mail to:     glass-request@bungi.com
    > To=20 send to the list,      please mail to: = glass@bungi.com
    > = Archives=20 available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
    >=20 ------=_NextPart_000_000C_01C1A44C.A5A4DF40-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Jan 25 17:29:18 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 25 Jan 2002 17:10:49 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: aol.com!GlassLites From: GlassLites@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Subject: Re: Computer Programs Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 20:09:35 EST Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com> Precedence: bulk In a message dated 1/23/02 8:18:30 PM Eastern Standard Time, rhpeltz@gte.net writes: > > Hi All: > > Does anyone know of a good, user friendly, computer design program? = > I ran accross a program called Glass 2000. Does anyone use this. Thanks = > much > > Bob Peltz > I have the professional version of GlassEye 2000. I previously had the original version of this program developed several years ago. I would not be without it. If you are familiar with the use of CAD programs you can use it almost instantly. If drawing programs are new to you, follow the tutorial with GlassEye and be up and running with simple patterns in about 1/2 hour. I love this program. But there are others out there. Pattern Wizard has been mentioned. American Bevel also makes a program. All can be downloaded as demos to try. I recommend taking them all for test drives and see which works best for you. Cheryl Lowe ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Jan 25 20:10:10 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 25 Jan 2002 19:44:39 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: attbi.com!byronw26 From: "Byron Wells" To: Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Re: Computer Programs Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 20:45:58 -0600 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@attbi.com> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@gte.net>> Precedence: bulk Hi Bob... I've been using GE about 5 years now and love it...I do most of my drawing on the desktop since I have it hooked to a 36" plotter printer but I also take it right to the customer via my laptop...Customers are amazed at how fast you can switch pieces,change colors etc... Try that with a pencil! I would say its the easiest drawing program I ever learned... Corel draw and others have their places but they are loaded down with so many features and gobbldygook it's hard to get anything done... Byron... Wells Glassworks ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robert H. Peltz" To: Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2002 11:18 AM Subject: Computer Programs > > Hi All: > > Does anyone know of a good, user friendly, computer design program? = > I ran accross a program called Glass 2000. Does anyone use this. Thanks = > much > > Bob Peltz ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Jan 26 07:01:11 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sat, 26 Jan 2002 06:57:54 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: sympatico.ca!tandg.higson From: Gillian Higson To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed Subject: Bluejay pattern Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 09:54:35 -0600 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@sympatico.ca> Precedence: bulk Hello everyone I hope someone can help me. I want a copy of the cover panel on Down the Garden Path by Terra. Actually I want the Blue jay . If some one has the book and a scanner, I would greatly appreciate a scan of just the jay. Please remember to send to me off list. Thank you very much. Regards Gillian ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Jan 27 13:01:50 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 27 Jan 2002 12:45:17 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: sympatico.ca!tandg.higson From: Gillian Higson To: Sue Reitmann , glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed Subject: Re: Bluejay pattern Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 12:35:44 -0600 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@sympatico.ca> References: <<01C1A696.01DC3B00@145-235.dialup.scc.net>> Precedence: bulk Hi Sue Yes, Spectrum does have a Jay, but I think it looks more like a cardinal. I have my heart set on the other one. I live in Canada, and most pattern books are now in the $25 -$30 range. So I really have to watch what I buy . Regards Gillian Sue Reitmann wrote: >Weird coincidence.........I was just looking for a bluejay today. I don't >have the book you want but Spectrum has a great one in their free patterns >on their website. www.spectrumglass.com >It is in set # 16. >Good luck! >Sue ( in Mpls.,MN) > >---------- >From: Gillian Higson[SMTP:tandg.higson@sympatico.ca] >Sent: Saturday, January 26, 2002 9:54 AM >To: glass@bungi.com >Subject: Bluejay pattern > >Hello everyone >I hope someone can help me. I want a copy of the cover panel on Down >the Garden Path by Terra. Actually I want the Blue jay . If some one >has the book and a scanner, I would greatly appreciate a scan of just >the jay. Please remember to send to me off list. Thank you very much. >Regards >Gillian > > >---- >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com >To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > > > > > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Jan 27 19:20:06 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 27 Jan 2002 19:16:40 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: sympatico.ca!tandg.higson From: Gillian Higson To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed Subject: (no subject) Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 12:41:11 -0600 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@sympatico.ca> Precedence: bulk I understand what you're saying, Skip, but I live in Canada . The book is closer to Thirty dollars up here, and the only thing in the whole book that I like is that Jay. Just thought I'd save myself another not really necessary purchase, that's all. Didn't expect to get shot at for it. Regards Gillian ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Jan 29 06:05:24 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 29 Jan 2002 05:54:48 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: doorpi.net!mmam5 From: "Marci" To: "Gillian Higson" , Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Re: Bluejay pattern Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 06:50:36 -0600 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@doorpi.net> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@sympatico.ca>> Precedence: bulk Hi Gillian, I think some of us misundertsood you, I have a BlueJay pattern you might like. Give me about a 1/2 hour and I'll scan it in and send it over to you. It's not from the book you mentioned, but looks very much like a blueJay and not a cardinal. You should be able to adapt it to the pattern you're looking for! Hang in there! Marci Martin Designs ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gillian Higson" To: Sent: Saturday, January 26, 2002 9:54 AM Subject: Bluejay pattern > Hello everyone > I hope someone can help me. I want a copy of the cover panel on Down > the Garden Path by Terra. Actually I want the Blue jay . If some one > has the book and a scanner, I would greatly appreciate a scan of just > the jay. Please remember to send to me off list. Thank you very much. > Regards > Gillian > > > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Jan 29 16:03:43 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 29 Jan 2002 15:54:06 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: usa.redcross.org!LavrichC From: "Lavrich, Carol" To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Stamping on Glass Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 18:30:23 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@usa.redcross.org> Precedence: bulk RE: Stamping on Glass Has anyone in the group tried stamping on glass w/rubberstamps? What techniques do you use to make it permanent? Thanks. Carol ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Jan 29 22:33:30 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 29 Jan 2002 22:11:33 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: home.com!gunnx4 From: Suzanne Gunn To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: new email address Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 18:18:38 -0600 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com> Organization: glassdancer Precedence: bulk Im in the hideous process of converting from @home to my new cable account. My new email address will be (hopefully soon) gunnx4@cox.net Thanks Suzanne ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Jan 30 07:54:33 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 30 Jan 2002 07:50:01 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: slonet.org!edupjohn From: "Peggy W. Johnsen" To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Subject: Non_Glass - Credit Card Fraud Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 16:24:06 -0800 (PST) Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@slonet.org> Precedence: bulk Just wanted to tell folk to be extra careful about your credit cards. I had a call from my banker this morning asking if I had authorized a certain individual to use my card. When I said no, I was informed that there had been over $2,000 charged for car rental and airline tickets. Fortunately the car rental person contacted the bank and found the name and address on the card did not match. I was also told the charges originated at hotwire.com on the Internet. I was fortunate. I just wanted to share this bit of information as a reminder it could happen to you. I am still trying to understand where someone got hold of my credit card number. The bank has stopped charges and will now issue a new card. Take care. Peggy ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Jan 30 10:02:24 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 30 Jan 2002 09:55:30 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: stratus.com!Charlie.Spitzer From: "Spitzer, Charlie" To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain Subject: RE: Stamping on Glass Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 06:54:25 -0700 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@stratus.com> Precedence: bulk use etching cream rather than ink. you can get that at a stained glass shop. regards, charlie phx, az > -----Original Message----- > From: Lavrich, Carol [mailto:LavrichC@usa.redcross.org] > Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2002 4:30 PM > To: glass@bungi.com > Subject: Stamping on Glass > > > RE: Stamping on Glass > > Has anyone in the group tried stamping on glass w/rubberstamps? What > techniques do you use to make it permanent? Thanks. Carol > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Jan 30 10:27:24 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 30 Jan 2002 10:08:21 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: home.com!esavad From: "Mike Savad" To: "Peggy W. Johnsen" , Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: RE: Non_Glass - Credit Card Fraud Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 13:04:09 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@slonet.org>> Precedence: bulk they can get it from a number of sources. online with an unsecured site. on a mailed statement. or someone who works for a store that takes the number. i used to be a shipper, one of the things we did, was give rebates for a store all we needed was the copy of a the reciept. you would'nt believe how many people left their credit card number there. if i was a theiving kind of person, it would have been so easy to scoop them all up and go on a spending spree. ---Mike Savad -----Original Message----- From: Peggy W. Johnsen [mailto:edupjohn@slonet.org] Sent: Monday, January 28, 2002 7:24 PM To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Non_Glass - Credit Card Fraud Just wanted to tell folk to be extra careful about your credit cards. I had a call from my banker this morning asking if I had authorized a certain individual to use my card. When I said no, I was informed that there had been over $2,000 charged for car rental and airline tickets. Fortunately the car rental person contacted the bank and found the name and address on the card did not match. I was also told the charges originated at hotwire.com on the Internet. I was fortunate. I just wanted to share this bit of information as a reminder it could happen to you. I am still trying to understand where someone got hold of my credit card number. The bank has stopped charges and will now issue a new card. Take care. Peggy ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Jan 31 13:34:11 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 31 Jan 2002 13:17:42 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: attbi.com!byronw26 From: "Byron Wells" To: Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Insulated glass Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 20:40:22 -0600 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@attbi.com> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@slonet.org>> Precedence: bulk Hey all... Anyone on here doing their insulated glass around their panels?? Dunno about building codes in the rest of the country but here in the Dallas area of Texas they are all starting to adopt some new code which says that all new construction must use Low-E glass in all windows and doors.. They are granting one exception per home for either a window of some sort or a leaded glass front door.. Thats fine but most of the houses I work on do several windows and the front doors... I do build windows to fit just inside of the regular double pane windows but they dont always look that great from the outside... To much reflection between all the layers of glass... Byron... Wells Glassworks ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Jan 31 15:16:44 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 31 Jan 2002 15:01:22 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles From: "Christie A. Wood" To: Bungi Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Insulated glass Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 17:10:38 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com> Precedence: bulk Message text written by "Byron Wells" >Anyone on here doing their insulated glass around their panels?? Dunno about building codes in the rest of the country but here in the Dallas area of Texas they are all starting to adopt some new code which says that all ne= w construction must use Low-E glass in all windows and doors.. They are granting one exception per home for either a window of some sort or a leaded glass front door.. Thats fine but most of the houses I work on do several= windows and the front doors... I do build windows to fit just inside of t= he regular double pane windows but they dont always look that great from the= outside... To much reflection between all the layers of glass...< Yes, I've done stained glass panels which are then sandwitched inbetween two layers of insulated and/or low-E glass. There are certain restrictions you have to follow in the stained glass window construction in order for the insulated glass window assembler to use your panel. When you take the order from your client, immediately call up a local regular window/mirror company and ask them to give you a quote for construction of an insulated unit with stained glass on the inside. They will probably not do it themselves, but will then call up a 3rd party insulated window assembler in the area. You will need to give them overall dimensions of the window (total - including frame and how thick the insulated glass is to be). They will then tell YOU what size you need to construct your stained glass panel to... and also if they want an exterior frame on the panel or not. Most do not want a zinc or lead frame put on the outside edge of the stained glass panel. Most will not have worked with a stained glass artist before, so insist that you can talk directly with the insulated window assembler in order to get the requirements fully defined and priced. And don't be shocked if their price per insulated unit comes up to 3 times what you're quoting for making the stained glass panel. Christie A. Wood Art Glass Ensembles Denton, TX ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Jan 31 16:20:11 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 31 Jan 2002 16:15:41 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: doorpi.net!mmam5 From: "Marci" To: "Christie A. Wood" , "Bungi" Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Re: Insulated glass Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 18:06:07 -0600 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@doorpi.net> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com>> Precedence: bulk Thanks for the information Christie! I've had customers ask about insulated windows also. I figured they were on the costly side - but the window itself would be preserved and protected greatly. Marci Martin Designs www.mmartindesigns.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Christie A. Wood" To: "Bungi" Sent: Thursday, January 31, 2002 4:10 PM Subject: Insulated glass > Message text written by "Byron Wells" > >Anyone on here doing their insulated glass around their panels?? Dunno > about > building codes in the rest of the country but here in the Dallas area of > Texas they are all starting to adopt some new code which says that all ne= > w > construction must use Low-E glass in all windows and doors.. They are > granting one exception per home for either a window of some sort or a > leaded > glass front door.. Thats fine but most of the houses I work on do several= > > windows and the front doors... I do build windows to fit just inside of t= > he > regular double pane windows but they dont always look that great from the= > > outside... To much reflection between all the layers of glass...< > > Yes, I've done stained glass panels which are then sandwitched > inbetween two layers of insulated and/or low-E glass. There are > certain restrictions you have to follow in the stained glass window > construction in order for the insulated glass window assembler to > use your panel. When you take the order from your client, immediately > call up a local regular window/mirror company and ask them to give > you a quote for construction of an insulated unit with stained glass > on the inside. They will probably not do it themselves, but will then > call up a 3rd party insulated window assembler in the area. You will > need to give them overall dimensions of the window (total - including > frame and how thick the insulated glass is to be). They will then tell > YOU what size you need to construct your stained glass panel to... > and also if they want an exterior frame on the panel or not. Most do > not want a zinc or lead frame put on the outside edge of the stained > glass panel. Most will not have worked with a stained glass artist > before, so insist that you can talk directly with the insulated window > assembler in order to get the requirements fully defined and priced. > And don't be shocked if their price per insulated unit comes up to > 3 times what you're quoting for making the stained glass panel. > > Christie A. Wood > Art Glass Ensembles > Denton, TX > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Jan 31 16:31:08 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 31 Jan 2002 16:15:54 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: aol.com!ARTIZ01 From: ARTIZ01@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Subject: Re: Insulated glass Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 19:11:57 EST Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com> Precedence: bulk Hello, Regarding your questions of insulating stained glass. We do this everyday at our shop. We use 2 pieces of anneal, low-e or tempered glass and sandwich the art glass inside. If we are using art glass in a door, sidelights, transom, it must be tempered it could be tempered and low e. The channel we usually use when we build the stained glass is a Y channel, or a U channel. This you can get at any stained glass supplier. Although we do our own insulating here, I would suggest you check with a window manufacturer they will usually insulate this for you. (example of cost 22 x 64 art glass using 2 pieces of tempered glass- $ 50-60 (for the tempered 2 pieces of glass) and $ 75.00 to insulate it. The thickness depends----- could be 5/8 to 1" Keep in mind when you build the art piece if you are using big bevels or jewels you will need it at least 1". The low-E glass goes on the outside only. I hope this has been helpful Bob, Window & Door Art Glass Specialties Inc. ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Jan 31 21:31:08 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 31 Jan 2002 21:25:36 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: comcast.net!cecnralph From: Cecily & Ralph Wood To: Bungi Glass Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type=54455854; Subject: Re: Hello Date: Fri, 01 Feb 2002 00:22:36 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@comcast.net> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@doorpi.net>> Organization: Grendel Studio Precedence: bulk Don't waste money on Mark Stay.. Buy a tube of Vasoline (petroleum jelly). Does the same thing and it's cheaper and easier to use. Mark Stay has bee's wax and is just too hard. - Cec Marci wrote: > Hi Frank! > > Welcome to the group. I usually clean up my glass to get the dust and finger > prints off. I've gotten into the habit of just drawing the pattern onto the > glass. Some jell pens work OK. But I have the best luck with gold/silver > metallic markers - slim or fine tip. They usually cost a bit more, but the > pattern stays on well even thru grinding. I just recently came across some > cool stuff called Mark Stay (http://www.stainedglasswarehouse.com/), > professional mark perserver. You can use a felt tip marker for making your > pattern then apply a thin film of Mark Stay with your finger. It will keep > the pattern visible thru the grinding process. It washes off with soap and > water. > > If you can get a light box (or make one) then you can trace the pattern thru > just about any glass. > > Good Luck! > > Marci > Martin Designs > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Francis R. Vesey" > To: "FUN - Stained Glass Forum" > Sent: Friday, January 11, 2002 11:39 AM > Subject: Hello > > > Hello Everyone, > > > > I am new to your list and returning to Stained Glass after several years > of > > absense. > > > > I have a few questions. > > What is the best way to prepare your glass for cutting? > > Do you cut a pattern and draw the design on the glass? > > OR > > Do you trace the design with a pattern under the glass? > > > > If you draw the design on the glass. What kind of pen do you use? > > > > Last question. Has anyone used the Toyo Tap Wheel Cutter? And what was > your > > experience like? > > > > Thanks in advance. > > > > Frank > > > > ---- > > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > > > > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Feb 1 00:00:55 2002 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 31 Jan 2002 23:59:54 -0800 (PST) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23) X-Path: attbi.com!byronw26 From: "Byron Wells" To: Content-Type: multipart/alternative; Subject: Looking for wire mesh Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 19:42:34 -0600 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@attbi.com> Precedence: bulk This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_00AC_01C1AA8F.6DB4DF60 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hey all... I'm looking for a nice wire mesh/screen (yes I know it's not glass) I = have a regular customer that wants some of that in a wine cabinet door = instead of the usual Antique/seedy etc glass I usually put in... Thanks in advance! Byron... Wells Glassworks ------=_NextPart_000_00AC_01C1AA8F.6DB4DF60 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
    Hey all...
     
    I'm looking for a nice wire mesh/screen = (yes I know=20 it's not glass)  I have a regular customer that wants some of that = in a=20 wine cabinet door instead of the usual Antique/seedy etc glass I usually = put=20 in...
     
    Thanks in advance!
    Byron...
    Wells=20 Glassworks
    ------=_NextPart_000_00AC_01C1AA8F.6DB4DF60-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass