From owner-glass Mon Oct  1 08:42:32 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15o4sM-00008Da@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Mon, 1 Oct 2001 08:20:58 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: stratus.com!Charlie.Spitzer
From: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie.Spitzer@stratus.com>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: RE: flux neutralizer
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2001 07:35:14 -0700 
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@stratus.com>
Precedence: bulk

baking soda with a couple of drops of joy liquid soap

kerosene

regards,
charlie
phx, az

-----Original Message-----
From: FuchsiaFan@aol.com [mailto:FuchsiaFan@aol.com]
Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2001 12:36 PM
To: Glass@bungi.com
Subject: flux neutralizer


Hi Bungians! 

Does anyone have a homebrew recipe for a flux neutralizer. 
If you have one, you might also include a homebrew recipe for cutting oil. 

Thanks, 
Mike in Spokane 
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Mon Oct  1 08:51:23 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15o5B2-00000ya@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Mon, 1 Oct 2001 08:40:16 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: socal.rr.com!myates
From: "Mary Yates" <myates@socal.rr.com>
To: "Karen K" <giapet@softhouse.com>, "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: flux neutralizer
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2001 08:43:16 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@socal.rr.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@softhouse.com>>
Precedence: bulk

I use hair clipper oil.  Works great and cheap.

Mary
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Karen K" <giapet@softhouse.com>
To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>; <FuchsiaFan@aol.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2001 5:54 PM
Subject: Re: flux neutralizer


> 
> Nothing for flux neutralizer but have used mineral oil (very cheap) for
> years without problems.
> 
> Karen
> giapet@softhouse.com
> 
> > Hi Bungians!
> >
> > Does anyone have a homebrew recipe for a flux neutralizer.
> > If you have one, you might also include a homebrew recipe for cutting
> oil.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Mike in Spokane
> >
> 
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> 

----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Mon Oct  1 09:53:01 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15o6Aa-0000E3a@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Mon, 1 Oct 2001 09:43:52 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: home.com!lorley
From: Lorley Oneyear <lorley@home.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: multipart/mixed; x-avg-checked=avg-ok-47E91A1; boundary="=======74DE4695======="
Subject: re-strip foil reinforcement
Date: Mon, 01 Oct 2001 09:03:46 -0700
Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20011001090035.009ee250@mail>
Precedence: bulk

--=======74DE4695=======
Content-Type: text/plain; x-avg-checked=avg-ok-47E91A1; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

This is the first time I used the little coil of copper re-strip to 
reinforce my copper foil project. The re-strip is just a smidgen wider than 
my glass so it sticks up just a bit. Will my solder lines be noticeably 
larger or higher where the re-strip is within the project? Lorley/Phoenix

--=======74DE4695=======--

----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Mon Oct  1 10:36:18 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15o6lw-0000EUa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Mon, 1 Oct 2001 10:22:28 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: erols.com!deethom
From: Dee <deethom@erols.com>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
Subject: RE: flux neutralizer
Date: Mon, 01 Oct 2001 13:18:32 -0700
Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20011001131728.00b1ff00@pop.erols.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@stratus.com>>
Precedence: bulk


>baking soda with a couple of drops of dawn dishwashing detergent
>
>kerosene and light machine oil, like 3&1
almost like charlie
dee

----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Mon Oct  1 11:27:34 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15o7gA-00000za@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Mon, 1 Oct 2001 11:20:34 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: auto.com!robin
From: "Robin Ellison - Auto And Parts, LLC" <robin@auto.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: lead pattern scissors
Date: Mon, 01 Oct 2001 12:50:59 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@auto.com>
Organization: Auto and Parts.Com
Precedence: bulk

which brand pattern scissors does everyone find work the best for them.
i am not happy with mine, so i thought i would get some feedback before
i buy another pair.
thanks
robin

--
********************************************************
Thank You
Robin Ellison
Auto & Parts... http://www.autoandparts.com
1-888-977-1999
Automotive Internet Services that get RESULTS !!
Auto & Parts provides internet solutions exclusively for
the Auto Recycling Industry. Offering used part locating
systems for buying & selling , web site design, hosting
and maintenance at a reasonable cost.
AOL FRIENDLY LINK
<a href="http://autoandparts.com">Auto And Parts</a>



----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Mon Oct  1 12:04:20 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15o8El-00008va@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Mon, 1 Oct 2001 11:56:19 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: softhouse.com!giapet
From: "Karen K" <giapet@softhouse.com>
To: "Robin Ellison - Auto And Parts, LLC" <robin@auto.com>
Subject: Re: lead pattern scissors
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2001 14:51:11 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@softhouse.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@auto.com>>
Precedence: bulk


think mine are called james easy cut, very small design, love them.

Karen
giapet@softhouse.com



> which brand pattern scissors does everyone find work the best for
them.
> i am not happy with mine, so i thought i would get some feedback
before
> i buy another pair.
> thanks
> robin
>
> --
> ********************************************************
> Thank You
> Robin Ellison
> Auto & Parts... http://www.autoandparts.com
> 1-888-977-1999
> Automotive Internet Services that get RESULTS !!
> Auto & Parts provides internet solutions exclusively for
> the Auto Recycling Industry. Offering used part locating
> systems for buying & selling , web site design, hosting
> and maintenance at a reasonable cost.
> AOL FRIENDLY LINK
> <a href="http://autoandparts.com">Auto And Parts</a>
>
>
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>


----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Mon Oct  1 14:05:34 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15oA6l-00001Oa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Mon, 1 Oct 2001 13:56:11 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: softhouse.com!giapet
From: "Karen K" <giapet@softhouse.com>
To: <robin@autop.com>
Subject: Re: lead pattern scissors
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2001 16:50:16 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@softhouse.com>
References: <<3BB8CB0B.B075B6D9@auto.com>>
Precedence: bulk

No don't do much leadwork.  I use x-ray film to cut patterns of designs
that I use alot.  They never get soggy or wear out that way.  Mostly
trace around patterns unless it's a very complicated design then I glue
to get a better fit.

The easy cut scissors can take really small bites at a time and you can
adjust the tension of the blades for different pattern materials.  Wisk
they would make one for mosaics too.  I think you would like
them......not like any others out there.

Karen
giapet@softhouse.com

> thanks karen, those are the ones i was looking at on-line today. do
you
> do
> a lot of lead work? it seem the scissors i use now must not cut a wide
> enough
> line, it seems i always have to grind all my pieces, i use the pattern
> method
> i glue the pattern piece on the glass after i cut it out. what method
do
> you
> use. any help would be greatly appreciated. i love to do mostly lead
> work.
> thanks
> robin



----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Mon Oct  1 16:05:39 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15oBkQ-00006ea@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Mon, 1 Oct 2001 15:41:14 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: verizon.net!moya.oneal
From: "Moya O'Neal" <moya.oneal@verizon.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: re: flux neutralizer
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2001 00:58:57 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@verizon.net>
Precedence: bulk

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0022_01C14A14.3FFC8680
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I use baking soda.  It neutralizes the flux quite well, and adds just =
enough texture to help wash the glass well when I finish a piece. I also =
use a wax coating on all seams.  It just gives a longer lasting finish, =
and I have no trouble with the dreaded white mold.

Moya

------=_NextPart_000_0022_01C14A14.3FFC8680
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4522.1800" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>I use baking soda.&nbsp; It neutralizes the flux =
quite=20
well, and adds just enough texture to help wash the glass well when I =
finish a=20
piece. I also use a wax coating on all seams.&nbsp; It just gives a =
longer=20
lasting finish, and I have no trouble with the dreaded white =
mold.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>Moya</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0022_01C14A14.3FFC8680--

----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Mon Oct  1 19:06:55 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15oEn7-0000Eba@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Mon, 1 Oct 2001 18:56:13 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: aol.com!WaynLinda
From: WaynLinda@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: flux neutralizer
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2001 21:52:15 EDT
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>
Precedence: bulk

I am new to stained glass. When do you use a flux neutralizer? After I get 
done soldering, I usually just wash the finished project with warm soapy 
water. Do I need to neutralize the flux?
Thanks,
Linda
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Mon Oct  1 19:27:39 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15oEod-0000ERa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Mon, 1 Oct 2001 18:57:47 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: aol.com!FietsMann
From: FietsMann@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="part1_14c.1dd6c74.28ea787b_boundary"
Subject: Fwd: lead pattern scissors
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2001 21:55:07 EDT
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>
Precedence: bulk


--part1_14c.1dd6c74.28ea787b_boundary
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
	boundary="part1_14c.1dd6c74.28ea787b_alt_boundary"


--part1_14c.1dd6c74.28ea787b_alt_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit



If I may ask: What kind do you have & why don't you like them?

Glassy Gene
Have fiets will travel!

--part1_14c.1dd6c74.28ea787b_alt_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=2>
<BR>
<BR>If I may ask: What kind do you have &amp; why don't you like them?
<BR>
<BR>Glassy Gene
<BR>Have fiets will travel!</FONT></HTML>

--part1_14c.1dd6c74.28ea787b_alt_boundary--

--part1_14c.1dd6c74.28ea787b_boundary
Content-Type: message/rfc822
Content-Disposition: inline

Return-Path: <owner-glass@daver.bungi.com>
Received: from  rly-xb05.mx.aol.com (rly-xb05.mail.aol.com [172.20.105.106]) by air-xb01.mail.aol.com (v80.17) with ESMTP id MAILINXB19-1001143137; Mon, 01 Oct 2001 14:31:37 -0400
Received: from  daver.bungi.com (daver.bungi.com [207.126.97.2]) by rly-xb05.mx.aol.com (v80.21) with ESMTP id MAILRELAYINXB52-1001143120; Mon, 01 Oct 2001 14:31:20 -0400
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15o7gA-00000za@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Mon, 1 Oct 2001 11:20:34 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: auto.com!robin
From: "Robin Ellison - Auto And Parts, LLC" <robin@auto.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: lead pattern scissors
Date: Mon, 01 Oct 2001 12:50:59 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@auto.com>
Organization: Auto and Parts.Com
Precedence: bulk
X-Mailer: Unknown (No Version)

which brand pattern scissors does everyone find work the best for them.
i am not happy with mine, so i thought i would get some feedback before
i buy another pair.
thanks
robin

--
********************************************************
Thank You
Robin Ellison
Auto & Parts... http://www.autoandparts.com
1-888-977-1999
Automotive Internet Services that get RESULTS !!
Auto & Parts provides internet solutions exclusively for
the Auto Recycling Industry. Offering used part locating
systems for buying & selling , web site design, hosting
and maintenance at a reasonable cost.
AOL FRIENDLY LINK
<a href="http://autoandparts.com">Auto And Parts</a>



----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

--part1_14c.1dd6c74.28ea787b_boundary--
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Tue Oct  2 14:51:01 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15oXC9-0000Gfa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Tue, 2 Oct 2001 14:35:17 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: exchange.DAYTONOH.NCR.com!DF125031
From: "Becker, Donna" <DF125031@exchange.DAYTONOH.NCR.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Fireplace Screen
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2001 17:18:02 -0400 
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@exchange.DAYTONOH.NCR.com>
Precedence: bulk

Several months ago, I called my local retailer about ordering a Wrought Iron
fireplace screen frame from Houston Glass Supply.  I wasn't real sure, but
after seeing the one in the latest Glass Patterns Quarterly, I decided that
it was what I was looking for after all.  I called her back, and she doesn't
do that anymore, because the cost of shipping is twice the cost of the
product.  Does anyone know of any other sources for Wrought Iron products to
add glass to, or have any other clever ideas.  I like the 1 flat piece.
I've considered buying the hinged one at home depot and exchanging the
screen parts with glass, but it just wouldn't be as nice looking.  If you've
done a similar project, could you  let me know what you've done.

Donna Becker
Office  630-469-5726
Cell 630-248-0184
donna.becker@chicagoil.ncr.com

"The right to be heard does not automatically include the right to be taken
seriously."
     --- Hubert H. Humphrey

----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Tue Oct  2 15:26:22 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15oXlz-0000Fra@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Tue, 2 Oct 2001 15:12:19 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: home.com!gunnx4
From: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@home.com>
To: "Becker, Donna" <DF125031@exchange.DAYTONOH.NCR.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Fireplace Screen
Date: Tue, 02 Oct 2001 17:13:24 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@exchange.DAYTONOH.NCR.com>>
Organization: glassdancer
Precedence: bulk

Donna,

You might want to post to rec.crafts.glass, maybe one of the retailers
there can get exactly what you want for a reasonable price.  One of them 
might do enough volume to get a better price.

I've thought a lot of doing a fire place screen...as I have two fire
places, but they already have glass doors on them, and the expense of 
doing it just to do it keeps me from it.

I did a show once that one of the booths was all wrought iron.  The guy
goes to Mexico frequently.  He promised to check for several items I'd
been wanting to use for glass.  I never heard back from him, and I've
long since lost his card.

Good luck.  Let us know what you come up with.

Suzanne



"Becker, Donna" wrote:
> 
> Several months ago, I called my local retailer about ordering a Wrought Iron
> fireplace screen frame from Houston Glass Supply.  I wasn't real sure, but
> after seeing the one in the latest Glass Patterns Quarterly, I decided that
> it was what I was looking for after all.  I called her back, and she doesn't
> do that anymore, because the cost of shipping is twice the cost of the
> product.  Does anyone know of any other sources for Wrought Iron products to
> add glass to, or have any other clever ideas.  I like the 1 flat piece.
> I've considered buying the hinged one at home depot and exchanging the
> screen parts with glass, but it just wouldn't be as nice looking.  If you've
> done a similar project, could you  let me know what you've done.
> 
> Donna Becker
> Office  630-469-5726
> Cell 630-248-0184
> donna.becker@chicagoil.ncr.com
> 
> "The right to be heard does not automatically include the right to be taken
> seriously."
>      --- Hubert H. Humphrey
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Tue Oct  2 18:04:10 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15oZxO-0000Bxa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Tue, 2 Oct 2001 17:32:14 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: mindspring.com!boydz
From: boyd <boydz@mindspring.com>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Fireplace Screen
Date: Tue, 02 Oct 2001 20:08:15 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@mindspring.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>>
Precedence: bulk


is something like this what you have in mind, donna?

http://www.stainedglasswarehouse.com/sgw/scrolfirscre.html

they also have these too:

	http://store.yahoo.com/sgw/firpanstan.html

i have no knowledge of this company beyond just doing simple websearch!

--boyd

-- 

"History is the lie commonly agreed upon."

	 -- Voltaire

----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Wed Oct  3 01:04:07 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15ogh6-0000FZa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Wed, 3 Oct 2001 00:43:52 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: WaynLinda@aol.com
Subject: Re: flux neutralizer
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 08:38:19 +0100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@verrier>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>>
Precedence: bulk

In message <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>, WaynLinda@aol.com writes
>I am new to stained glass. When do you use a flux neutralizer? After I get 
>done soldering, I usually just wash the finished project with warm soapy 
>water. Do I need to neutralize the flux?

Once you have thoroughly washed the item, there is no flux (of any
significant amount) remaining.  So little to neutralise.  The acid in
the flux is very mild, and should be easily diluted by the washing
process, if a detergent is added to the wash water.  Then lots of
rinsing.

Steve

>Thanks,
>Linda
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Wed Oct  3 01:11:20 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15oghd-0000Aja@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Wed, 3 Oct 2001 00:44:25 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
Subject: cutting oil - UK term (was: flux neutralizer
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 08:31:19 +0100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@verrier>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Cec,
        In the UK kerosene is paraffin.
        the US gasoline is petrol in the UK
        in Continental Europe Gas oil is, I think diesel fuel

What a lovely language we share!

Steve

In message <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>, Cecily & Ralph Wood
<cecnralph@home.com> writes
>
>--------------F6CE03B4EFAD2A85DBAD0321
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-
>creator="4D4F5353"
>Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
>
>The home brew for cutting oil is kerosene (in GB maybe called gasoline?)
>as in kerosene oil lamps, etc.  The whole idea of cutting oil is so that
>the score stays open longer, and the glass doesn't "heal" and refill the
>scored area.  That gives you a bit longer in which to break your score.
>Not everyone uses a cutting oil. - Cec
>
>FuchsiaFan@aol.com wrote:
>
>> Hi Bungians!
>>
>> Does anyone have a homebrew recipe for a flux neutralizer.
>> If you have one, you might also include a homebrew recipe for cutting
>> oil.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Mike in Spokane
>
>--------------F6CE03B4EFAD2A85DBAD0321
>Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
>Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
>
><!doctype html public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en">
><html>
>The home brew for cutting oil is kerosene (in GB maybe called gasoline?)
>as in kerosene oil lamps, etc.&nbsp; The whole idea of cutting oil is so
>that the score stays open longer, and the glass doesn't "heal" and refill
>the scored area.&nbsp; That gives you a bit longer in which to break your
>score.&nbsp; Not everyone uses a cutting oil. - Cec
><p>FuchsiaFan@aol.com wrote:
><blockquote TYPE=CITE><font face="arial,helvetica"><font size=+1>Hi 
>Bungians!</font></font>
><p><font face="arial,helvetica"><font size=+1>Does anyone have a homebrew
>recipe for a flux neutralizer.</font></font>
><br><font face="arial,helvetica"><font size=+1>If you have one, you might
>also include a homebrew recipe for cutting oil.</font></font>
><p><font face="arial,helvetica"><font size=+1>Thanks,</font></font>
><br><font face="arial,helvetica"><font size=+1>Mike in Spokane</font></font></bl
>ockquote>
></html>
>
>--------------F6CE03B4EFAD2A85DBAD0321--
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Wed Oct  3 01:12:51 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15ogii-0000Fja@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Wed, 3 Oct 2001 00:45:32 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: "Robin Ellison - Auto And Parts, LLC" <robin@auto.com>
Subject: Re: lead pattern scissors
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 08:35:04 +0100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@verrier>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@auto.com>>
Precedence: bulk

I'm not sure that any lead or foil pattern scissors work very well.
In the days when I was cutting patterns, I rigged up a double bladed
craft knife with the appropriate space between the blades, and it worked
much better than the scissors.

Steve

In message <1970Jan1.000.0@auto.com>, Robin Ellison - Auto And Parts,
LLC <robin@auto.com> writes
>which brand pattern scissors does everyone find work the best for them.
>i am not happy with mine, so i thought i would get some feedback before
>i buy another pair.
>thanks
>robin
>
>--
>********************************************************
>Thank You
>Robin Ellison
>Auto & Parts... http://www.autoandparts.com
>1-888-977-1999
>Automotive Internet Services that get RESULTS !!
>Auto & Parts provides internet solutions exclusively for
>the Auto Recycling Industry. Offering used part locating
>systems for buying & selling , web site design, hosting
>and maintenance at a reasonable cost.
>AOL FRIENDLY LINK
><a href="http://autoandparts.com">Auto And Parts</a>
>
>
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Wed Oct  3 01:25:48 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15ogiJ-0000FCa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Wed, 3 Oct 2001 00:45:07 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: "Becker, Donna" <DF125031@exchange.DAYTONOH.NCR.com>
Subject: Re: Fireplace Screen
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 08:41:00 +0100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@verrier>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@exchange.DAYTONOH.NCR.com>>
Precedence: bulk

You could take the image of the Houston screen to your local blacksmith
and ask for a copy, or similar.

Steve


In message <1970Jan1.000.0@exchange.DAYTONOH.NCR.com>, Becker, Donna
<DF125031@exchange.DAYTONOH.NCR.com> writes
>Several months ago, I called my local retailer about ordering a Wrought Iron
>fireplace screen frame from Houston Glass Supply.  I wasn't real sure, but
>after seeing the one in the latest Glass Patterns Quarterly, I decided that
>it was what I was looking for after all.  I called her back, and she doesn't
>do that anymore, because the cost of shipping is twice the cost of the
>product.  Does anyone know of any other sources for Wrought Iron products to
>add glass to, or have any other clever ideas.  I like the 1 flat piece.
>I've considered buying the hinged one at home depot and exchanging the
>screen parts with glass, but it just wouldn't be as nice looking.  If you've
>done a similar project, could you  let me know what you've done.
>
>Donna Becker
>Office  630-469-5726
>Cell 630-248-0184
>donna.becker@chicagoil.ncr.com
>
>"The right to be heard does not automatically include the right to be taken
>seriously."
>     --- Hubert H. Humphrey
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Wed Oct  3 07:25:26 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15omhj-0000EGa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Wed, 3 Oct 2001 07:08:55 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Fireplace Screen
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 10:03:09 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com>
Precedence: bulk

Message text written by "Becker, Donna"
>Several months ago, I called my local retailer about ordering a Wrought
Iron
fireplace screen frame from Houston Glass Supply.  I wasn't real sure, bu=
t
after seeing the one in the latest Glass Patterns Quarterly, I decided th=
at
it was what I was looking for after all.  I called her back, and she
doesn't
do that anymore, because the cost of shipping is twice the cost of the
product.  Does anyone know of any other sources for Wrought Iron products=

to
add glass to, or have any other clever ideas.  I like the 1 flat piece.
I've considered buying the hinged one at home depot and exchanging the
screen parts with glass, but it just wouldn't be as nice looking.  If
you've
done a similar project, could you  let me know what you've done<

Ack!!!!  I just took a $400 order for doing a fireplace screen based on t=
he
large wrought iron stand
offered by Houston Glass Supply!  Now what do we do?

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
Denton, TX
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Wed Oct  3 11:37:08 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15oqaq-0000Fsa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Wed, 3 Oct 2001 11:18:04 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: aol.com!MMMCAM
From: MMMCAM@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Help finding gooseneck styled lamp bases
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 14:13:46 EDT
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>
Precedence: bulk

Hello fellow artists,

I'm looking for a good site where I can find some reasonably priced gooseneck 
styled lamp bases.  I'm interested in the "S" styled bronze or brass ones 
that have either an art deco or victorian look to it with a socket that fits 
a 2 1/4-2 1/2 fitter ring. I've found some sites on the web for very modern 
looking bases but that's not what I'm looking for.

Any info would be much appreciated!
Thanks!
Melissa in Little Rock, AR
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Wed Oct  3 15:02:33 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15otw4-00002za@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Wed, 3 Oct 2001 14:52:12 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: aol.com!Roxie1824
From: Roxie1824@aol.com
To: Glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_17.1c6c7f3a.28ece1df_boundary"
Subject: glass saws
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 17:49:19 EDT
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>
Precedence: bulk


--part1_17.1c6c7f3a.28ece1df_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

I am hoping someone can give me some advice on glass saws.  I know that many 
people on Bungi do not believe in using saws for glass cutting - and I 
respect that.  However, I would appreciate any insight anyone can give me on 
this question.

I am looking at two saws - the Taurus 2.2 ring saw - and the Gryphon saw.  
Both of them will cut glass from a pilot hole - which interests me.  I am 
just wondering if anyone on Bungi has any experience with either saw - and if 
you can give me your opinions.  

I appreciate it very much - and am always thrilled with the WEALTH of 
information I receive from this group.

Thank you in advance...

Loretta in Michigan

--part1_17.1c6c7f3a.28ece1df_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  COLOR="#8000ff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SCRIPT" FACE="Comic Sans MS" LANG="0">I am hoping someone can give me some advice on glass saws. &nbsp;I know that many people on Bungi do not believe in using saws for glass cutting - and I respect that. &nbsp;However, I would appreciate any insight anyone can give me on this question.
<BR>
<BR>I am looking at two saws - the Taurus 2.2 ring saw - and the Gryphon saw. &nbsp;Both of them will cut glass from a pilot hole - which interests me. &nbsp;I am just wondering if anyone on Bungi has any experience with either saw - and if you can give me your opinions. &nbsp;
<BR>
<BR>I appreciate it very much - and am always thrilled with the WEALTH of information I receive from this group.
<BR>
<BR>Thank you in advance...
<BR>
<BR>Loretta in Michigan</FONT></HTML>

--part1_17.1c6c7f3a.28ece1df_boundary--
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Wed Oct  3 17:03:51 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15ovTz-00000ia@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Wed, 3 Oct 2001 16:31:19 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: mail2.nai.net!shad
From: Family Account <shad@mail2.nai.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: US Patriotic Pattern
Date: Wed, 03 Oct 2001 17:06:10 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@mail2.nai.net>
Precedence: bulk

For those US members who are looking for a flag pattern, I saw that
Specturm has put one up om their Web page.  Just go to
www.spectrumglass.com and you can't miss it.

Dorothy


----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Wed Oct  3 17:03:51 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15ovl2-0000Hya@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Wed, 3 Oct 2001 16:48:56 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: home.com!gunnx4
From: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@home.com>
To: Roxie1824@aol.com, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: glass saws
Date: Wed, 03 Oct 2001 18:49:33 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>>
Organization: glassdancer
Precedence: bulk

I have a Gemini Taurus II.
I like it fine except it scares me every time I turn it on (not often)
and it's loud!

Other than that, it's great as far as saws go, and Gemini's customer
service is excellent.

You might visit a local retailer and demo what ever saws they have to
give yourself an idea.

Suzanne

Roxie1824@aol.com wrote:
> 
> I am hoping someone can give me some advice on glass saws.  I know
> that many people on Bungi do not believe in using saws for glass
> cutting - and I respect that.  However, I would appreciate any insight
> anyone can give me on this question.
> 
> I am looking at two saws - the Taurus 2.2 ring saw - and the Gryphon
> saw.  Both of them will cut glass from a pilot hole - which interests
> me.  I am just wondering if anyone on Bungi has any experience with
> either saw - and if you can give me your opinions.
> 
> I appreciate it very much - and am always thrilled with the WEALTH of
> information I receive from this group.
> 
> Thank you in advance...
> 
> Loretta in Michigan
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Wed Oct  3 20:07:04 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15oyK1-0000Gaa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Wed, 3 Oct 2001 19:33:13 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: home.com!cecnralph
From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Subject: Re: glass saws
Date: Wed, 03 Oct 2001 22:44:05 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>>
Organization: Grendel Studio
Precedence: bulk

The Taurus now has two size "blades", but I don't know if the separating
one has two sizes or if not what the width is.  I often use my Taurus to do
really tiny spots my grinder won't handle (saves switching heads, as well),
but I have the old wide blade, which definately chews a wider awath than my
band saw.  My bandsaw is much smoother and makes a butter/fine cut.  No saw
is fast, however.  You can cut by hand much faster.  I find I use my saws
when I have only a teensy bit of glass and I can't afford to mess up.  I
havn't had a chance to use the Gryphen, though.

If you get the Taurus, I'd get the add on products - especially the eye
guard.  Suzanne had a really scary experience when a blade broke, I think.
Anyway that little LCD light that shines right on the cutting surface is
very nice. - Cec

Suzanne Gunn wrote:

> I have a Gemini Taurus II.
> I like it fine except it scares me every time I turn it on (not often)
> and it's loud!
>
> Other than that, it's great as far as saws go, and Gemini's customer
> service is excellent.
>
> You might visit a local retailer and demo what ever saws they have to
> give yourself an idea.
>
> Suzanne
>
> Roxie1824@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > I am hoping someone can give me some advice on glass saws.  I know
> > that many people on Bungi do not believe in using saws for glass
> > cutting - and I respect that.  However, I would appreciate any insight
> > anyone can give me on this question.
> >
> > I am looking at two saws - the Taurus 2.2 ring saw - and the Gryphon
> > saw.  Both of them will cut glass from a pilot hole - which interests
> > me.  I am just wondering if anyone on Bungi has any experience with
> > either saw - and if you can give me your opinions.
> >
> > I appreciate it very much - and am always thrilled with the WEALTH of
> > information I receive from this group.
> >
> > Thank you in advance...
> >
> > Loretta in Michigan
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Wed Oct  3 21:33:46 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15ozzM-0000H6a@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Wed, 3 Oct 2001 21:20:00 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: home.com!byronw26
From: "Byron Wells" <byronw26@home.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: Re: glass saws
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 22:38:11 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>>
Precedence: bulk

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0028_01C14C5C.14D09240
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I'd go with the Taurus... I have one of the Gryphon omni saws and its a =
piece of plastic junk to put it mildly... Vibrates way to much,lousy =
cuts and the water supply is about worthless...  I'm just glad I didn't =
pay retail or I'd really be mad!!

Byron...
Wells Glassworks
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Roxie1824@aol.com=20
  To: Glass@bungi.com=20
  Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2001 4:49 PM
  Subject: glass saws


  I am hoping someone can give me some advice on glass saws.  I know =
that many people on Bungi do not believe in using saws for glass cutting =
- and I respect that.  However, I would appreciate any insight anyone =
can give me on this question.=20

  I am looking at two saws - the Taurus 2.2 ring saw - and the Gryphon =
saw.  Both of them will cut glass from a pilot hole - which interests =
me.  I am just wondering if anyone on Bungi has any experience with =
either saw - and if you can give me your opinions.  =20

  I appreciate it very much - and am always thrilled with the WEALTH of =
information I receive from this group.=20

  Thank you in advance...=20

  Loretta in Michigan=20

------=_NextPart_000_0028_01C14C5C.14D09240
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2919.6307" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I'd go with the Taurus... I have one of =
the Gryphon=20
omni saws and its a piece of plastic junk to put it mildly... Vibrates =
way to=20
much,lousy cuts and the water supply is about worthless...&nbsp; I'm =
just glad I=20
didn't pay retail or I'd really be mad!!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Byron...<BR>Wells =
Glassworks</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A href=3D"mailto:Roxie1824@aol.com"=20
  title=3DRoxie1824@aol.com>Roxie1824@aol.com</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
href=3D"mailto:Glass@bungi.com"=20
  title=3DGlass@bungi.com>Glass@bungi.com</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, October 03, =
2001 4:49=20
  PM</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> glass saws</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT color=3D#8000ff=20
  face=3D"Comic Sans MS" lang=3D0 size=3D2 FAMILY=3D"SCRIPT">I am hoping =
someone can=20
  give me some advice on glass saws. &nbsp;I know that many people on =
Bungi do=20
  not believe in using saws for glass cutting - and I respect that.=20
  &nbsp;However, I would appreciate any insight anyone can give me on =
this=20
  question. <BR><BR>I am looking at two saws - the Taurus 2.2 ring saw - =
and the=20
  Gryphon saw. &nbsp;Both of them will cut glass from a pilot hole - =
which=20
  interests me. &nbsp;I am just wondering if anyone on Bungi has any =
experience=20
  with either saw - and if you can give me your opinions. &nbsp; =
<BR><BR>I=20
  appreciate it very much - and am always thrilled with the WEALTH of=20
  information I receive from this group. <BR><BR>Thank you in advance... =

  <BR><BR>Loretta in Michigan</FONT> </FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0028_01C14C5C.14D09240--

----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Wed Oct  3 23:08:06 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15p16q-0000EUa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Wed, 3 Oct 2001 22:31:48 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: home.com!gunnx4
From: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@home.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: [Fwd: Re: glass saws]
Date: Wed, 03 Oct 2001 22:24:00 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>
Organization: glassdancer
Precedence: bulk



Oops...sent this just to Cec...sorry, Cec.


Always wear your safety glasses when operating a saw, no exceptions.
The glass really flies.  

Im short, and my saw is up kind of high, as my work tables went built
for the saw, but for cutting and building height.

Im really paranoid the blade will break and fly off into my face. (it's
just fear)  I always stand to the side when I turn my saw on.  I HATE
the sound it makes when I turn it on.  It's really an offensive sounding
tool, IMHO, it's way too loud for my taste.  Cant even hear my music
BLARING when I use it. ;o)  But, I dont use it very much, so when I do,
Im glad I have it.

Suzanne

Cecily & Ralph Wood wrote:
---Snip--
> If you get the Taurus, I'd get the add on products - especially the eye
> guard.  Suzanne had a really scary experience when a blade broke, I think.
> Anyway that little LCD light that shines right on the cutting surface is
> very nice. - Cec
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Thu Oct  4 05:46:37 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15p7mO-0000E2a@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Thu, 4 Oct 2001 05:39:08 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: vcn.com!birkie
From: "Birkie" <birkie@vcn.com>
To: "Robin Ellison - Auto And Parts, LLC" <robin@auto.com>,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: lead pattern scissors
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 06:37:44 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@vcn.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@auto.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Robin,

I use Fanout2 and 1(for foil and lead respectively).  The challenge I had
originally was finding a pair that were not designed for right handed use.
Luckly I was able to go to a wholesaler and go through all the scissors
before I decided on a pair.

Vicki

----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Thu Oct  4 06:16:36 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15p8Kb-0000HBa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Thu, 4 Oct 2001 06:14:29 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: vcn.com!birkie
From: "Birkie" <birkie@vcn.com>
To: <Roxie1824@aol.com>,
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: Re: glass saws
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 07:13:12 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@vcn.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>>
Precedence: bulk

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0081_01C14CA4.072B24A0
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Loretta,

I have had the opportunity to use both and I prefer the Taurus ring saw, =
I find it much more flexible.  I can cut the glass in almost any =
direction with the blade.  Good luck with your decision!

Vicki =20

------=_NextPart_000_0081_01C14CA4.072B24A0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4611.1300" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Loretta,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I have had the opportunity to use both =
and I prefer=20
the Taurus ring saw,&nbsp;I find it much more flexible.&nbsp; I can cut =
the=20
glass in almost any direction with the blade.&nbsp; Good luck with your=20
decision!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Vicki&nbsp; </FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0081_01C14CA4.072B24A0--

----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Thu Oct  4 06:46:21 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15p8aT-0000Dua@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Thu, 4 Oct 2001 06:30:53 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Help finding gooseneck styled lamp bases
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 09:24:10 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com>
Precedence: bulk

Message text written by INTERNET:MMMCAM@aol.com
>I'm looking for a good site where I can find some reasonably priced
gooseneck =

styled lamp bases.  I'm interested in the "S" styled bronze or brass ones=
 =

that have either an art deco or victorian look to it with a socket that
fits =

a 2 1/4-2 1/2 fitter ring. I've found some sites on the web for very mode=
rn

looking bases but that's not what I'm looking for.<

Rainbow Art Glass in Wall, NJ has a couple of sizes of gooseneck lamp
bases.
Wholesale & retail sales: 1-800-526-2356

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
Denton, TX
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Thu Oct  4 11:27:43 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15pCu0-0000Ica@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Thu, 4 Oct 2001 11:07:20 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: yahoo.com!beadnik
From: Joan <beadnik@yahoo.com>
To: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@home.com>, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: [Fwd: Re: glass saws]
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 11:04:55 -0700 (PDT)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Hi Suzanne....

To allay your fears, I have had my Taurus blade break,
and it just makes an awful noise and then stops dead
in its tracks... didn't fly anywhere.  I do agree with
little pieces of glass flying though.  I often have
bits of it stuck to my clothing. I use a full face
mask when using my Taurus.

With regard to which saw is better, I saw the Gryphon
demo'd at Glass Visions last year, and it seemed
flimsy and I thought their cooling system was awkward
and cumbersome to use.  In previous discussions, most
people seem to prefer the Taurus.

Joan

--- Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@home.com> wrote:
> 
> 
> Oops...sent this just to Cec...sorry, Cec.
> 
> 
> Always wear your safety glasses when operating a
> saw, no exceptions.
> The glass really flies.  
> 
> Im short, and my saw is up kind of high, as my work
> tables went built
> for the saw, but for cutting and building height.
> 
> Im really paranoid the blade will break and fly off
> into my face. (it's
> just fear)  I always stand to the side when I turn
> my saw on.  I HATE
> the sound it makes when I turn it on.  It's really
> an offensive sounding
> tool, IMHO, it's way too loud for my taste.  Cant
> even hear my music
> BLARING when I use it. ;o)  But, I dont use it very
> much, so when I do,
> Im glad I have it.
> 
> Suzanne
> 
> Cecily & Ralph Wood wrote:
> ---Snip--
> > If you get the Taurus, I'd get the add on products
> - especially the eye
> > guard.  Suzanne had a really scary experience when
> a blade broke, I think.
> > Anyway that little LCD light that shines right on
> the cutting surface is
> > very nice. - Cec
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to:
> glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to:
> glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
  

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
NEW from Yahoo! GeoCities - quick and easy web site hosting, just $8.95/month.
http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Thu Oct  4 12:28:52 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15pE38-0000HWa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Thu, 4 Oct 2001 12:20:50 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: yahoo.com!hobiebis
From: FAITH BISCHOFF <hobiebis@yahoo.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="0-1541682887-1002197553=:18404"
Subject: solder lines
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 05:12:33 -0700 (PDT)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>
Precedence: bulk

--0-1541682887-1002197553=:18404
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii


Hi

I am currently working on mobiles and I appreciate everyones advise hints have been helpful.  Does anyone have any suggestions for getting the solder lines smoother?  I am attaching copper rings which is a real pain, if anyone knows an easy way to do this I would appreciate that also, anyway, the solder lines are very rough looking maybe I'm using the wrong solder I'm still fairly new to stained glass so any hints are appreciated.

Thanks

Faith



---------------------------------
Do You Yahoo!?
NEW from Yahoo! GeoCities - quick and easy web site hosting, just $8.95/month. Yahoo! by Phone.
--0-1541682887-1002197553=:18404
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii

<P>Hi</P>
<P>I am currently working on mobiles and I appreciate everyones advise hints have been helpful.&nbsp; Does anyone have any suggestions for getting the solder lines smoother?&nbsp; I am attaching copper rings which is a real pain, if anyone knows an easy way to do this I would appreciate that also, anyway, the solder lines are very rough looking maybe I'm using the wrong solder I'm still fairly new to stained glass so any hints are appreciated.</P>
<P>Thanks</P>
<P>Faith</P><p><br><hr size=1><b>Do You Yahoo!?</b><br>
NEW from Yahoo! GeoCities - quick and easy <a
href="http://rd.yahoo.com/mail_us/tag/?http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1" target="_blank">web site hosting</a>, just $8.95/month. Yahoo! by Phone</a>.
--0-1541682887-1002197553=:18404--
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Thu Oct  4 20:04:23 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15pKlW-00003Sa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Thu, 4 Oct 2001 19:31:06 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: webtv.net!captjonmisspat
From: captjonmisspat@webtv.net (John Triano)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII
Subject: copyright issues
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 22:13:40 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@webtv.net>
Precedence: bulk

Hi fellow bungi members,  Could anyone advise me as  to whether I can
use  a major baseball league's logo to make one stepping stone for
someone's birthday as a gift. Would  I have to obtain permissin and how
would  I go about this/  Thank you in advance for any advice
Patty

----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Thu Oct  4 23:32:04 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15pOIV-0000GKa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Thu, 4 Oct 2001 23:17:23 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: home.com!gunnx4
From: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@home.com>
To: Joan <beadnik@yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: [Fwd: Re: glass saws]
Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2001 22:23:31 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>>
Organization: glassdancer
Precedence: bulk

lol...Oh, I know it's a neurotic fear! ;o)
My blade has only broken once, but someone else was using it at the
time.
Gemini replaced it free of charge.

Suzanne

Joan wrote:
> 
> Hi Suzanne....
> 
> To allay your fears, I have had my Taurus blade break,
> and it just makes an awful noise and then stops dead
> in its tracks... didn't fly anywhere.  I do agree with
> little pieces of glass flying though.  I often have
> bits of it stuck to my clothing. I use a full face
> mask when using my Taurus.
> 
> With regard to which saw is better, I saw the Gryphon
> demo'd at Glass Visions last year, and it seemed
> flimsy and I thought their cooling system was awkward
> and cumbersome to use.  In previous discussions, most
> people seem to prefer the Taurus.
> 
> Joan
> 
> --- Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@home.com> wrote:
> >
> >
> > Oops...sent this just to Cec...sorry, Cec.
> >
> >
> > Always wear your safety glasses when operating a
> > saw, no exceptions.
> > The glass really flies.
> >
> > Im short, and my saw is up kind of high, as my work
> > tables went built
> > for the saw, but for cutting and building height.
> >
> > Im really paranoid the blade will break and fly off
> > into my face. (it's
> > just fear)  I always stand to the side when I turn
> > my saw on.  I HATE
> > the sound it makes when I turn it on.  It's really
> > an offensive sounding
> > tool, IMHO, it's way too loud for my taste.  Cant
> > even hear my music
> > BLARING when I use it. ;o)  But, I dont use it very
> > much, so when I do,
> > Im glad I have it.
> >
> > Suzanne
> >
> > Cecily & Ralph Wood wrote:
> > ---Snip--
> > > If you get the Taurus, I'd get the add on products
> > - especially the eye
> > > guard.  Suzanne had a really scary experience when
> > a blade broke, I think.
> > > Anyway that little LCD light that shines right on
> > the cutting surface is
> > > very nice. - Cec
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to:
> > glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list,      please mail to:
> > glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> 
> 
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> NEW from Yahoo! GeoCities - quick and easy web site hosting, just $8.95/month.
> http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Fri Oct  5 10:58:20 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15pYrQ-0000FQa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Fri, 5 Oct 2001 10:34:08 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: solder lines
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2001 09:02:14 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com>
Precedence: bulk

Message text written by FAITH BISCHOFF
>I am currently working on mobiles and I appreciate everyones advise hint=
s
have been helpful.  Does anyone have any suggestions for getting the sold=
er
lines smoother?  I am attaching copper rings which is a real pain, if
anyone knows an easy way to do this I would appreciate that also, anyway,=

the solder lines are very rough looking maybe I'm using the wrong solder
I'm still fairly new to stained glass so any hints are appreciated.

Thanks
Faith<

Soldering lovely, smooth solder lines takes practice and a careful
attention to the many variables which affect soldering.  For instance,
using too much flux is a common mistake.  Only use enough flux to prepare=

the copper...don't drown it in flux.  Too much flux will cause boiling an=
d
sputtering.  Experiment with different brands/types of flux too.  No one
flux is perfect for every job.  I like liquid blue for lead work, and the=

gel type for copper foil, and the paste type for cleaning my soldering
iron.

Don't use too much solder either.  This produces lumps and bumps.  Only u=
se
enough to produce a nice rounded bead.  If you see a valley between the t=
wo
copper foiled pieces, you need more solder.  But if you don't, then you'v=
e
got enough.  Don't add more.

Another common thing to watch for is an iron which is not set to the righ=
t
temperature.  Too low and your solder takes a long time to melt and/or it=

just makes lumps instead of a smooth line.  Too high and you can have
trouble controlling how quickly it melts.  Experiment with the temperatur=
e
setting until you find a place you like and can control.  I use a TempTro=
l
100 soldering iron which has a built-in rheostat.  I like to keep mine se=
t
at the 1:00 position, which is a bit hotter than most.  But I find I can
control both 50/50 and 60/40 solder well at that temperature, and produce=
 a
good smooth solder line.

Make sure your iron's tip is clean.  Every so often clean it off by dippi=
ng
it into paste flux (Novocan is my preferred) and then wiping the crud off=

on a damp sponge.  If your iron is dirty, it's pretty hard to do smooth
soldering.

Don't try to do too much soldering all at one time.  I only flux one line=

at a time, and then solder what I've flux'ed.  I never flux the whole
project and then try soldering it.  The solder evaporates and leaves a me=
ss
and then you have to reflux, etc.

Remember that a soldering iron is not a pencil or a paint brush.  Use it =
as
an iron.  Don't dab or try doing paint strokes with an iron.  I see this
far too often with my beginning students/assistants.  They want to treat
the iron like a brush.  If you think about the iron as a tool for
transferring heat, then you will begin to understand it's function.  To
smooth out a rough spot, lightly reflux and set the iron onto the spot,
hold until the solder re-liquifies, then lift the iron straight up.

Experiment with using different parts of the tip for doing different
things.  Experiment with where on the tip you actually melt the solder.  =
Do
you melt it on the top flat of the tip and let it "dribble" down onto the=

surface?  I have found what I call a "sweet spot" on my iron where the
solder melts well and does not get in the way of me moving the iron.  It'=
s
on the side of the tip.  When I melt the solder there, it flows through
convection down to the bottom of the tip and onto the copper foil very
easily and smoothly.

And one more thing...when the solder line looks good, STOP.  Far too ofte=
n
I've seen students/assistants keep working a solder line long after it
looks good.  If it looks good, STOP, and go on to do the next line.

Hope these tips help out.

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
Denton, TX
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Sun Oct  7 12:03:55 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15qIpc-0000J9a@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Sun, 7 Oct 2001 11:39:20 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: yahoo.com!sparkylynne
From: Lynne Black <sparkylynne@yahoo.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: copper foil pulling up
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2001 11:30:27 -0700 (PDT)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>
Precedence: bulk

What would cause the edges of coper foil to pull away
from the glass during soldering?  Also, is there a
certain type/brand of flux that you like best?  

Thanks!

Lynne Black
Manassas, VA

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
NEW from Yahoo! GeoCities - quick and easy web site hosting, just $8.95/month.
http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Sun Oct  7 16:03:54 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15qMmn-0000FRa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Sun, 7 Oct 2001 15:52:41 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: hotmail.com!mommabear776
From: "rkimmond" <mommabear776@hotmail.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: xray film
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2001 17:45:38 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@hotmail.com>
Precedence: bulk

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_00C9_01C14F57.E02D51A0
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Some one wrote and said that they used xray film for patterns.  I have =
tried using them and was unable to keep the pattern glued to the glass.  =
What glue do you use when using xray film patterns to keep in on the =
glass during cutting and grinding? I used ross rubber cement glue.

Rita

------=_NextPart_000_00C9_01C14F57.E02D51A0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3500" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Some one wrote and said that they used =
xray film=20
for patterns.&nbsp; I have tried using them and was unable to keep the =
pattern=20
glued to the glass.&nbsp; What glue do you use when using xray film =
patterns to=20
keep in on the glass during cutting and grinding? I used ross rubber =
cement=20
glue.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Rita</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_00C9_01C14F57.E02D51A0--
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Sun Oct  7 17:03:15 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15qMmn-0000FRa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Sun, 7 Oct 2001 15:52:41 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: hotmail.com!mommabear776
From: "rkimmond" <mommabear776@hotmail.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: xray film
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2001 17:45:38 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@hotmail.com>
Precedence: bulk

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_00C9_01C14F57.E02D51A0
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Some one wrote and said that they used xray film for patterns.  I have =
tried using them and was unable to keep the pattern glued to the glass.  =
What glue do you use when using xray film patterns to keep in on the =
glass during cutting and grinding? I used ross rubber cement glue.

Rita

------=_NextPart_000_00C9_01C14F57.E02D51A0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3500" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Some one wrote and said that they used =
xray film=20
for patterns.&nbsp; I have tried using them and was unable to keep the =
pattern=20
glued to the glass.&nbsp; What glue do you use when using xray film =
patterns to=20
keep in on the glass during cutting and grinding? I used ross rubber =
cement=20
glue.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Rita</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_00C9_01C14F57.E02D51A0--
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Sun Oct  7 21:01:57 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15qRXN-0000JFa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Sun, 7 Oct 2001 20:57:05 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: softhouse.com!giapet
From: "Karen K" <giapet@softhouse.com>
To: "rkimmond" <mommabear776@hotmail.com>, <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: xray film
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2001 23:54:03 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@softhouse.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@hotmail.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Rita,

I don't use glue with the x-ray film.   I use the film only for
production work to save time.  I trace the image on the film, cut with a
stencil burner.  I don't use the pattern piece cut from the film but use
the *negative* image, the part that's left without the piece just taken
out.  Then lay the film on my glass and run a sharpie around the cut
line.  It's way faster to draw on the inside of a negative pattern image
than to draw on the outside of a pattern piece.  Your hands aren't in
the way at all, you can shift the film over and repeat very fast.  I
take a half sheet of glass at a time, draw the entire piece, then cut
it.  This works great for small things like suncatchers.

If I want to use glue for a detailed pattern I use mylar for the pattern
pieces and glue sticks from Staples.  Then I cut the pattern pieces the
normal way.

Karen
giapet@softhouse.com

> Some one wrote and said that they used xray film for patterns.  I have
=
> tried using them and was unable to keep the pattern glued to the
glass.  =
> What glue do you use when using xray film patterns to keep in on the =
> glass during cutting and grinding? I used ross rubber cement glue.
>
> Rita



----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Mon Oct  8 07:34:06 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15qbF9-0000F6a@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Mon, 8 Oct 2001 07:18:55 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: pd.jaring.my!shakabe
From: "Shakeel Abedi" <shakabe@pd.jaring.my>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Hi everyone
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2001 06:19:36 +0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@pd.jaring.my>
References: <<1999Aug31.123920.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Hi everyone,

I have no experience or knowledge in tiffany style lampshades. So when
someone asked me a quaestion I was stumped and have to come to you.

When is a vase cap used and when is the spider?

What's the difference ?

And how does one attach a spider?

Hope someone can answer this. Steve, Tim, Dani?

Thanks

Shakeel Abedi


----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Mon Oct  8 08:09:04 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15qbtt-000099a@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Mon, 8 Oct 2001 08:01:01 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: yahoo.com!sparkylynne
From: Lynne Black <sparkylynne@yahoo.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: copper foil pulling up
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2001 07:59:44 -0700 (PDT)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>
References: <<00a901c14ffd$2f74f9c0$0101a8c0@hppav>>
Precedence: bulk

Thanks for all your responses to my question.  I
hadn't thought of old foil being one of the problems. 
Mine is pretty old.  What is the usual shelf life of
foil?  Does flux also have a shelf life?

As you can see, I'm still learning...

Lynne Black
Manassas, VA 

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
NEW from Yahoo! GeoCities - quick and easy web site hosting, just $8.95/month.
http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Tue Oct  9 20:16:59 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15r9nY-000083a@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Tue, 9 Oct 2001 20:12:44 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: home.com!lorley
From: Lorley Oneyear <lorley@home.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: multipart/mixed; x-avg-checked=avg-ok-1226E59; boundary="=======28481432======="
Subject: cutting glass
Date: Tue, 09 Oct 2001 20:09:57 -0700
Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20011009200415.009e61d0@mail>
Precedence: bulk

--=======28481432=======
Content-Type: text/plain; x-avg-checked=avg-ok-1226E59; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

Today I had just a terrible time cutting glass. It seems I've lost my 
skrit. You know..the nice sound that your cutter makes when it's cutting 
glass. Most of the time today I would cut a piece and would not hear 
anything and could barely find my cut line. Then I would try my running 
pliers and the piece would break into threes!! Or.. I would use the grozier 
pliers and instead of the glass breaking off in a nice line the glass would 
just crumble where I had my pliers. I was using a pencil type oil filled 
barrel cutter that is new to me and I was trying to cut glue chip glass 
today if that would make a difference? Where did my skrit go?

--=======28481432=======--

----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Tue Oct  9 22:46:15 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15rC4E-0000HIa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Tue, 9 Oct 2001 22:38:06 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: home.com!lorley
From: Lorley Oneyear <lorley@home.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: multipart/mixed; x-avg-checked=avg-ok-29DD21D2; boundary="=======25D7EC8======="
Subject: cutting glass
Date: Tue, 09 Oct 2001 20:09:57 -0700
Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20011009200415.009e61d0@mail>
Precedence: bulk

--=======25D7EC8=======
Content-Type: text/plain; x-avg-checked=avg-ok-29DD21D2; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

Today I had just a terrible time cutting glass. It seems I've lost my 
skrit. You know..the nice sound that your cutter makes when it's cutting 
glass. Most of the time today I would cut a piece and would not hear 
anything and could barely find my cut line. Then I would try my running 
pliers and the piece would break into threes!! Or.. I would use the grozier 
pliers and instead of the glass breaking off in a nice line the glass would 
just crumble where I had my pliers. I was using a pencil type oil filled 
barrel cutter that is new to me and I was trying to cut glue chip glass 
today if that would make a difference? Where did my skrit go?

--=======25D7EC8=======--

----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Wed Oct 10 05:57:12 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15rImP-000051a@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Wed, 10 Oct 2001 05:48:09 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: thezone.net!robertcrane
From: "Robert Crane" <robertcrane@thezone.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: Gatewayed mail message
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 10:20:33 -0230
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@thezone.net>
Precedence: bulk

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_001F_01C15175.3229ACA0
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Does anyone know a source of 20mm & 25 mm faceted jewels YELLOW in =
color. Amber is a little brown for me.
Thanks in anticipation


------------------------------------
Make Unlimited phone calls from your PC to ANY phone in the World!
http://www.eboom.com/free/

------=_NextPart_000_001F_01C15175.3229ACA0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2600.0" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Does anyone know a source of 20mm &amp; =
25 mm=20
faceted jewels YELLOW in color. Amber is a little brown for =
me.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Thanks in anticipation</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial =
size=3D2>------------------------------------<BR>Make=20
Unlimited phone calls from your PC to ANY phone in the World!<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://www.eboom.com/free/">http://www.eboom.com/free/</A></FONT>=
</DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_001F_01C15175.3229ACA0--

----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Wed Oct 10 08:04:30 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15rKsE-0000F4a@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Wed, 10 Oct 2001 08:02:18 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: cutting glass
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 09:11:57 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com>
Precedence: bulk

Message text written by Lorley Oneyear
>Today I had just a terrible time cutting glass. It seems I've lost my =

skrit. You know..the nice sound that your cutter makes when it's cutting =

glass.<

Sounds like the wheel head is not turning.  Double check that it's not
frozen in place.

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
Denton, TX
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Wed Oct 10 10:31:56 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15rNAc-00004za@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Wed, 10 Oct 2001 10:29:26 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: aol.com!GraphicArtsNews
From: "John Calardo, VP-General Mgr." <GraphicArtsNews@aol.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1"
Subject: Wednesday 10/10/01 Converting & World News...
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 13:28:38
Message-ID: <m15rN9r-0000F0C@daver.bungi.com>
Precedence: bulk

<br>
<a href="http://www.convertingindustry.com/">Caraustar says Q3 profit view unhurt by 
attacks... </a><br>
<br>
<a href="http://www.convertingindustry.com/">Willamette Net Falls but Beats Estimates... 
</a><br>
<br>
<a href="http://www.convertingindustry.com/">Sonoco Invites You to Join Its Third Quarter 
2001 Earnings Results... </a><br>
<br>
<a href="http://www.convertingindustry.com/">Standard Register Names Jeffrey Kenny as 
Label Solutions President... </a><br>
<br>
SPECIAL EDITION:<br>
<br>
<a href="http://www.convertingindustry.com/">Bomb Found Near U-MD...  </a><br>
<br>
<a href="http://www.convertingindustry.com/">NATO chief warns of 'poor man's nuclear 
bomb' risk... </a><br>
<br>
<a href="http://www.convertingindustry.com/">Islamic group says Blair 'legitimate target'... 
</a><br>
<br>
-------------------------------------<br>
<br>
<a href="http://www.convertingindustry.com/">For All The News & More - Visit 
ConvertingIndustry.com</a><br>
<br>
Also Featuring:<br>
Industry News Archives<br>
Free Employment Advertising<br>
Procurement & Bid Solicitations<br>
Auctions & Liquidations<br>
Excellent Buys on Used & Late Model Converting, Printng & Bindery Equipment<br>
Buy, Sell, Trade & Brokerage of Used Equipment<br>
Plant & Equipment Liquidation Services<br>
Business Brokerage, Merger & Acquisition Services<br>
and more...<br>
<br>
<b>ConvertingIndustry.com, a division of QAM, Inc., is interested in any <br>
secondhand production machinery you may have for sale or want to buy.</b><br>
<br>
E-mail Machinery For Sale to: <a href="mailto:convertingsales@aol.com">
ConvertingSales@aol.com</a><br>
<br>
QAM buys, sells and brokers major production machinery in the printing, <br>
packaging and converting industries.  If you have any machinery for <br>
sale, we are always interested in new opportunities.  <br>
<br>
QAM is also specialized in plant liquidation and offers business brokerage,<br>
merger and acquisition services.<br>
<br>
Our services and equipment listings can be found at:<br>
<a href="http://161.58.197.31">CorrugatedIndustry.com</a> <br>
<a href="http://www.sheetfedpress.com/">SheetfedPress.com</a> <br>
<a href="http://www.weboffset.com/">WebOffset.com</a> <br>
<a href="http://www.qaminc.com/">QAMinc.com</a> <br>
<br>
We hope you'll visit often and look forward to serving your needs.<br>
<br>
Thank you, <br>
<br>
John Calardo<br>
V.P./G.M. Converting Group<br>
Tel. 513-574-6353 - Fax: 703-707-9608 <br>
john.calardo@convertingindustry.com<br>
<br>
Note:  If you have received this e-mail in error or do not wish to receive <br>
e-mail from ConvertingIndustry.com in the future, please reply with remove <br>
in the subject line.<br>
<br>
<br>
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Wed Oct 10 11:01:54 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15rNSu-0000CEa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Wed, 10 Oct 2001 10:48:20 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: hotmail.com!createglass
From: "Larry ." <createglass@hotmail.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
Subject: Re: cutting glass
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 17:46:56 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@hotmail.com>
Precedence: bulk


Hi Lorley,

If that were happening to me, I think I would try the glass cutter out on a 
piece of glass that is always easily cut.  If you have a piece of waterglass 
laying about, it's usually a nice smooth cut, complete with skrit!  (I love 
the term)

If you're not getting the skrit on glass you know is easily cut, then 
perhaps it's your cutter.  Do you still have your old cutter?  Could you try 
it on the gluechip that you're having trouble with?

Sounds to me like you might need a new cutter head.

Larry


>From: Lorley Oneyear <lorley@home.com>
>To: glass@bungi.com
>Subject: cutting glass
>Date: Tue, 09 Oct 2001 20:09:57 -0700
>
>Today I had just a terrible time cutting glass. It seems I've lost my
>skrit. You know..the nice sound that your cutter makes when it's cutting
>glass. Most of the time today I would cut a piece and would not hear
>anything and could barely find my cut line. Then I would try my running
>pliers and the piece would break into threes!! Or.. I would use the grozier
>pliers and instead of the glass breaking off in a nice line the glass would
>just crumble where I had my pliers. I was using a pencil type oil filled
>barrel cutter that is new to me and I was trying to cut glue chip glass
>today if that would make a difference? Where did my skrit go?


_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp

----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Wed Oct 10 12:31:25 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15rP3N-0000Iwa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Wed, 10 Oct 2001 12:30:05 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: stratus.com!Charlie.Spitzer
From: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie.Spitzer@stratus.com>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: RE: cutting glass
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 11:14:25 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@stratus.com>
Precedence: bulk

isn't glue chip typically done on float glass? that's usually a softer glass
than stained glass and doesn't take as much pressure. i'd say there may be
something wrong with the wheel. perhaps it's either not rotating, or may be
the wrong angle. there are different angle wheels for thick glass that are
not appropriate for thin glass.

regards,
charlie
phx, az

-----Original Message-----
From: Larry . [mailto:createglass@hotmail.com]
Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2001 10:47 AM
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: cutting glass



Hi Lorley,

If that were happening to me, I think I would try the glass cutter out on a 
piece of glass that is always easily cut.  If you have a piece of waterglass

laying about, it's usually a nice smooth cut, complete with skrit!  (I love 
the term)

If you're not getting the skrit on glass you know is easily cut, then 
perhaps it's your cutter.  Do you still have your old cutter?  Could you try

it on the gluechip that you're having trouble with?

Sounds to me like you might need a new cutter head.

Larry


>From: Lorley Oneyear <lorley@home.com>
>To: glass@bungi.com
>Subject: cutting glass
>Date: Tue, 09 Oct 2001 20:09:57 -0700
>
>Today I had just a terrible time cutting glass. It seems I've lost my
>skrit. You know..the nice sound that your cutter makes when it's cutting
>glass. Most of the time today I would cut a piece and would not hear
>anything and could barely find my cut line. Then I would try my running
>pliers and the piece would break into threes!! Or.. I would use the grozier
>pliers and instead of the glass breaking off in a nice line the glass would
>just crumble where I had my pliers. I was using a pencil type oil filled
>barrel cutter that is new to me and I was trying to cut glue chip glass
>today if that would make a difference? Where did my skrit go?
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Wed Oct 10 17:02:25 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15rTE8-0000J8a@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Wed, 10 Oct 2001 16:57:28 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: home.com!lorley
From: Lorley Oneyear <lorley@home.com>
To: "Birkie" <birkie@vcn.com>
Content-Type: multipart/mixed; x-avg-checked=avg-ok-DE8290C; boundary="=======2F832996======="
Subject: Re: cutting glass
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 16:55:28 -0700
Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20011010165346.00a3b380@mail>
References: <<5.1.0.14.2.20011009200415.009e61d0@mail>>
Precedence: bulk

--=======2F832996=======
Content-Type: multipart/alternative; x-avg-checked=avg-ok-DE8290C; boundary="=====================_1361011==_.ALT"


--=====================_1361011==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/plain; x-avg-checked=avg-ok-DE8290C; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

My cutter is new. Should I be "pumping" my cutter first to get the flow of 
oil started? Yes, I'm cutting on the smooth side but I'll have to check the 
tongue thing.. Never thought about that!!




t 06:45 AM 10/10/2001 -0600, you wrote:

>Greetings,
>
>I guess I have a couple of questions first...1.  How much have you used your
>cutter, eventually the head will need to be replaced.  2.  Was the oil
>feeding to the cutter head?  I have an oil fed cutter and have had problems
>with oil flow which resulted in very poor scores.  3.  What side of the
>glass were you cutting?  When I cut glue chip, I cut on the smoothest side.
>(and last but not least...my first question to myself is "was I holding my
>tongue right?"  Sometimes no matter what I have done right, the glass has a
>mind of its own.)
>
>Vicki
>
>
>
>---
>Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
>Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
>Version: 6.0.282 / Virus Database: 150 - Release Date: 09/25/2001



--=====================_1361011==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; x-avg-checked=avg-ok-DE8290C; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

<html>
<font size=3>My cutter is new. Should I be &quot;pumping&quot; my cutter
first to get the flow of oil started? Yes, I'm cutting on the smooth side
but I'll have to check the tongue thing.. Never thought about
that!!<br><br>
<br><br>
<br>
t 06:45 AM 10/10/2001 -0600, you wrote:<br><br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>Greetings,<br><br>
I guess I have a couple of questions first...1.&nbsp; How much have you
used your<br>
cutter, eventually the head will need to be replaced.&nbsp; 2.&nbsp; Was
the oil<br>
feeding to the cutter head?&nbsp; I have an oil fed cutter and have had
problems<br>
with oil flow which resulted in very poor scores.&nbsp; 3.&nbsp; What
side of the<br>
glass were you cutting?&nbsp; When I cut glue chip, I cut on the
smoothest side.<br>
(and last but not least...my first question to myself is &quot;was I
holding my<br>
tongue right?&quot;&nbsp; Sometimes no matter what I have done right, the
glass has a<br>
mind of its own.)<br><br>
Vicki<br><br>
<br><br>
---<br>
Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.<br>
Checked by AVG anti-virus system
(<a href="http://www.grisoft.com/" eudora="autourl">http://www.grisoft.com</a>).<br>
Version: 6.0.282 / Virus Database: 150 - Release Date:
09/25/2001</font></blockquote><br>
</html>


--=====================_1361011==_.ALT--

--=======2F832996=======--

----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Sat Oct 13 17:01:12 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15sYNC-00002ia@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Sat, 13 Oct 2001 16:39:18 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: aol.com!Dudley246
From: Dudley246@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Grinder whell stuck??
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 19:33:40 EDT
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>
Precedence: bulk

Anybody have any ideas how I can get my grinder wheel off to change it. I 
kinda let it sit awhile without using it and now I can't get it off :( 
Thanks Damon


----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Sun Oct 14 00:24:56 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15sfVp-00007Za@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Sun, 14 Oct 2001 00:16:41 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: public.xm.fj.cn!hsco
From: Heroism Liu <hsco@public.xm.fj.cn>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Traditional Chinese Handmade Gifts and Handicrafts
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 10:27:25 +0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@public.xm.fj.cn>
Organization: Beijing zhaogezhuang cloisonne factory
Precedence: bulk


Dear sir or madam,

Glad to introduce us as one of the leading cloisonne enamel gifts and handicrafts manufacturers in China.

We mainly produce traditional chinese handicrafts(handmade cloisonne enamel handicrafts).
We can supply you the following products in high quality and competitive price:

Collectibles
(buttons,beads, and medals, pins etc)

Jewelry boxes


Stationery(office stationery and smoking)


Bells


Home decorations

Christmas hangings

Enamel eggs

Thimbles

Teapot

Vases

Animals (eagles,angel butterfly, elephant etc),it is best  for decoration and as christmas gifts


For our beads and pins products,kindly visit our web site http://www.gift-handicraft.com/beads.htm



For our collectible buttons products,kindly visit our web site http://www.gift-handicraft.com/cloisonne/newbutton.htm



For our thimbles products,kindly visit our web site http://www.gift-handicraft.com/cloisonne/thimble.htm

If you are interested in our other products,kindly visit our web site http://www.gift-handicraft.com
and not hesitate to contact us freely for more information.

Best Regards!

Heroism Liu/Manager
Beijing zhaogezhuang Cloisonne Factory Co.,Ltd
Tel:86-592-2398610  Fax: 86-592-2398610
E-mail: hsco@public.xm.fj.cn
http://www.gift-handicraft.com

Note: If this is not what you want,we appologize and just reply to us and we will not send them to you again.




----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Sun Oct 14 12:28:03 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15sqrJ-000081a@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Sun, 14 Oct 2001 12:23:37 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: doorpi.net!mmam5
From: "Marci" <mmam5@doorpi.net>
To: <Dudley246@aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Grinder whell stuck??
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 14:18:58 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@doorpi.net>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Hate it when that happens!! :)  If I remember right - after I got over my
initial panic, I soaked it down really well and pulled with all my might!!!
To get the grinder head back on seemed to be a problem afterwards also - -
using steel wool on the inside of the grinder head and also on the shaft
solves that puzzle.  I've had the same grinder  (whizling) for about 10
years!  :)

Good luck!!

Marci


----- Original Message -----
From: <Dudley246@aol.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2001 6:33 PM
Subject: Grinder whell stuck??


> Anybody have any ideas how I can get my grinder wheel off to change it. I
> kinda let it sit awhile without using it and now I can't get it off :(
> Thanks Damon
>
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>

----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Sun Oct 14 17:30:58 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15svSq-00006Qa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Sun, 14 Oct 2001 17:18:40 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Grinder whell stuck??
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 20:13:01 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com>
Precedence: bulk

Message text written by INTERNET:Dudley246@aol.com
>Anybody have any ideas how I can get my grinder wheel off to change it. =
I =

kinda let it sit awhile without using it and now I can't get it off :(<

Tried pliers?  Or combination of lubricating oil down the shaft, plus
pliers.

To avoid future problems, make sure you clean the inside of the grinder
wheel when you take it off the shaft.

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
Denton, TX
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Sun Oct 14 18:30:49 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15swVy-000085a@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Sun, 14 Oct 2001 18:25:58 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: sympatico.ca!tandg.higson
From: Gillian Higson <tandg.higson@sympatico.ca>
To: "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
Subject: grinder wheels
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 21:27:46 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@sympatico.ca>
Precedence: bulk

      Hi,
Don't forget to lubricate that just cleaned off shaft before you  put 
your grinding bit back on.  Vaseline works really well.  Make sure you 
get a good goop smeared and you shouldn't have much trouble removing it 
next time.  Unless,like me you haven't changed the bit for months and 
months and now the thing won't come off........
Regards
Gillian  

----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Sun Oct 14 18:47:42 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15swov-00003ga@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Sun, 14 Oct 2001 18:45:33 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: hotmail.com!wvgrrrrl
From: "Dee Quaranto" <wvgrrrrl@hotmail.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
Subject: Re: Grinder Wheel Stuck
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 17:28:44 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@hotmail.com>
Precedence: bulk

I'd suggest that, after you get your wheel off, you make sure to lubricate 
the shaft it sits on before putting the grinding head back on. That should 
help to prevent this situation from happening again. I think Inland makes a 
lubricant specifically for this--comes in a tiny little tube, kinda the 
consistency of Vaseline, which might be an excellent and much cheaper 
substitute for it, come to think of it...

Maybe others on the list have suggestions for low-cost alternatives to the 
Inland lubricant?

Regards,

Dee

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp

----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Mon Oct 15 09:02:38 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15t9pr-00009Fa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Mon, 15 Oct 2001 08:39:23 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: stratus.com!Charlie.Spitzer
From: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie.Spitzer@stratus.com>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: FW: Grinder well stuck??
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 07:09:45 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@stratus.com>
Precedence: bulk

try using some kind of puller. you can see different kinds at napa. they're
used for pulling things like steering wheels, battery posts, etc off shafts.

use anti-seize on the shaft before putting the head on next time.

regards,
charlie
phx, az

-----Original Message-----
From: Christie A. Wood [mailto:Ensembles@compuserve.com]
Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2001 5:13 PM
To: Bungi
Subject: Grinder whell stuck??


Message text written by INTERNET:Dudley246@aol.com
>Anybody have any ideas how I can get my grinder wheel off to change it. =
I =

kinda let it sit awhile without using it and now I can't get it off :(<

Tried pliers?  Or combination of lubricating oil down the shaft, plus
pliers.

To avoid future problems, make sure you clean the inside of the grinder
wheel when you take it off the shaft.

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
Denton, TX
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Wed Oct 17 14:30:35 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15ty0R-0000DOa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Wed, 17 Oct 2001 14:13:39 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: notes.cc.sunysb.edu!gcaso
From: gcaso@notes.cc.sunysb.edu
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Foiler
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 14:25:44 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@notes.cc.sunysb.edu>
Precedence: bulk

Hi,

I am considering buying a foiler (one of those holding rolls of 3 foil
sizes). Since I have never used one I would like to ask whether it is worth
the money (about $20-25) and, if so,  which brand I should go for.  I would
really appreciate any suggestion.
Thank you,

Giuseppe

----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Thu Oct 18 01:05:04 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15u7nZ-0000Ana@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Thu, 18 Oct 2001 00:41:01 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: home.com!cecnralph
From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
To: gcaso@notes.cc.sunysb.edu, Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Subject: Re: Foiler
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 22:20:23 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@notes.cc.sunysb.edu>>
Organization: Grendel Studio
Precedence: bulk

I have a Diegel (sp?) and I think I can foil about twice as fast as when I do
it all by hand.  It is good for placing the foil on, and placing it fairly
evenly.  It does not take the place of proper burnishing.  When my husband
helps me, it is really very useful since he doesn't have the experience and
patience I do. - Cec

gcaso@notes.cc.sunysb.edu wrote:

> Hi,
>
> I am considering buying a foiler (one of those holding rolls of 3 foil
> sizes). Since I have never used one I would like to ask whether it is worth
> the money (about $20-25) and, if so,  which brand I should go for.  I would
> really appreciate any suggestion.
> Thank you,
>
> Giuseppe
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Thu Oct 18 06:22:59 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15uCn6-0000Bla@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Thu, 18 Oct 2001 06:00:52 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Foiler
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 08:52:10 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com>
Precedence: bulk

Message text written by INTERNET:gcaso@notes.cc.sunysb.edu
>I am considering buying a foiler (one of those holding rolls of 3 foil
sizes). Since I have never used one I would like to ask whether it is wor=
th
the money (about $20-25) and, if so,  which brand I should go for.  I wou=
ld
really appreciate any suggestion.<

I have the 2-rolls one from Glastar.  I've had it for 5 years.  Love it.

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
Denton, TX
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Thu Oct 18 08:07:33 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15uEb3-00007Pa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Thu, 18 Oct 2001 07:56:33 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: aol.com!DebiH44
From: DebiH44@aol.com
To: wvgrrrrl@hotmail.com, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_138.3363a7d.29004421_boundary"
Subject: Re: Grinder Wheel Stuck
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 10:41:37 EDT
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>
Precedence: bulk


--part1_138.3363a7d.29004421_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

I use the cheaper alternative of Vaseline. Works well and does the job for my 
grinder.  Also clean the inside of the grind bit and put vaseline in the bit 
shaft area.  A little extra grease   saves  so much aggravation  and 
frustration  later.                                                           
                                                                              
                Debi H. 

--part1_138.3363a7d.29004421_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#8080ff"><FONT  COLOR="#000040" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial Rounded MT Bold" LANG="0"><B><I>I use the cheaper alternative of Vaseline. Works well and does the job for my grinder. &nbsp;Also clean the inside of the grind bit and put vaseline in the bit shaft area. &nbsp;A little extra grease &nbsp;&nbsp;saves &nbsp;so much aggravation &nbsp;and frustration &nbsp;later. &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Debi H. </B></I></FONT></HTML>

--part1_138.3363a7d.29004421_boundary--
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Mon Oct 22 07:41:44 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15vfwB-0000Gja@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Mon, 22 Oct 2001 07:20:19 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: hotmail.com!marybdaily
From: "Mary B" <marybdaily@hotmail.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
Subject: NO Mail...
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 10:18:17 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@hotmail.com>
Precedence: bulk

Is there a problem with the bungi server. I've not received ANY mail for 
almost a week? Usually have many messages each week. Please advise.

MaryBinVA


_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp

----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Mon Oct 22 09:42:41 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15vhyT-00006sa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Mon, 22 Oct 2001 09:30:49 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: hotmail.com!marybdaily
From: "Mary B" <marybdaily@hotmail.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
Subject: Hello...
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 11:38:51 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@hotmail.com>
Precedence: bulk

Has everyone left the building but us?
Mary B


_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp

----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Mon Oct 22 11:15:09 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15vjSb-00009ba@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Mon, 22 Oct 2001 11:06:01 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: stny.rr.com!thor
From: "Thor" <thor@stny.rr.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: Gatewayed mail message
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 13:57:40 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@stny.rr.com>
Precedence: bulk

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_00F5_01C15B01.83972460
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Well Im in the middle of  setting up My/our studio=20
dallas and I just bought a house in upstate NY and  are busy remodeling =
it  and  getting the cold/hot glass operation set up

------=_NextPart_000_00F5_01C15B01.83972460
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2919.6307" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D4>Well Im in the middle of&nbsp; setting =
up My/our=20
studio </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D4>dallas and I just bought a house in =
upstate NY=20
and&nbsp; are busy remodeling it&nbsp; and&nbsp; getting the cold/hot =
glass=20
operation set up</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_00F5_01C15B01.83972460--

----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Mon Oct 22 15:56:29 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15vnjF-0000DCa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Mon, 22 Oct 2001 15:39:29 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: hotmail.com!createglass
From: "Larry ." <createglass@hotmail.com>
To: marybdaily@hotmail.com
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
Subject: Re: NO Mail...
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 22:35:29 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@hotmail.com>
Precedence: bulk


I got your mail, Mary.
I haven't seen any mail lately either, but I think that the list is still 
working.  That, or we're just the lucky ones that can still get it.  *grin*

Larry




>From: "Mary B" <marybdaily@hotmail.com>
>To: glass@bungi.com
>Subject: NO Mail...
>Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 10:18:17 -0400
>
>Is there a problem with the bungi server. I've not received ANY mail for
>almost a week? Usually have many messages each week. Please advise.
>
>MaryBinVA
>
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp

----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Mon Oct 22 18:05:41 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15vpSh-00002ia@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Mon, 22 Oct 2001 17:30:31 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: massed.net!wmagdycz
From: "Elaine" <wmagdycz@massed.net>
To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: NO Mail...
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 19:59:22 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@massed.net>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@hotmail.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Can't get used to the email not automatically going to bungi. I did it right
this time. Elaine

The last email that I got from Bungi was 8/22. I just started getting it
again a few days ago after I emailed Glenna about it. Don't know what
happened. Elaine

----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry ." <createglass@hotmail.com>
To: <marybdaily@hotmail.com>
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2001 3:35 PM
Subject: Re: NO Mail...


>
> I got your mail, Mary.
> I haven't seen any mail lately either, but I think that the list is still
> working.  That, or we're just the lucky ones that can still get it.
*grin*
>
> Larry
>
>
>
>
> >From: "Mary B" <marybdaily@hotmail.com>
> >To: glass@bungi.com
> >Subject: NO Mail...
> >Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 10:18:17 -0400
> >
> >Is there a problem with the bungi server. I've not received ANY mail for
> >almost a week? Usually have many messages each week. Please advise.
> >
> >MaryBinVA
> >
> >
> >_________________________________________________________________
> >Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
> >
> >----
> >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> >To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>


----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Mon Oct 22 20:10:28 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15vrqR-00006Ta@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Mon, 22 Oct 2001 20:03:11 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: doorpi.net!mmam5
From: mmam5@doorpi.net
To: marybdaily@hotmail.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: Re: NO Mail...
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 10:17:44 EST
Message-ID: <200110221517.f9MFHnr43465@mail1.netacc.net>
Precedence: bulk

Thanks for saying something Mary! I thought maybe I had gotten "off" the
list!! :)

Maybe everyone was just quiet??  Server down??

Marci

On Mon, 22 Oct 2001 10:18:17 -0400 "Mary B" wrote:

> Is there a problem with the bungi server. I've not received ANY
> mail for 
> almost a week? Usually have many messages each week. Please
> advise.
> 
> MaryBinVA
> 
> 
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
> http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,	    please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Tue Oct 23 18:37:54 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15wCqn-0000FCa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Tue, 23 Oct 2001 18:28:57 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: aol.com!UserDusty
From: UserDusty@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_21.130b863d.29076b68_boundary"
Subject: Re:Foiler
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 20:55:04 EDT
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>
Precedence: bulk


--part1_21.130b863d.29076b68_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Hi everyone,

Bungi has been awful quiet lately. I usually check it everyday and there 
hasn't been any activity.  Regarding the foiler.  I have the Inland and the 
Glasstar. Both are the double roll models.  I think I like the Glasstar 
better. I don't have much luck foiling by hand.  My eyes get crossed and the 
foil looks like the Great Wall of China.  I still have to burnish it, but my 
wife doesn't hear the language from down in the basement.

Have a good one,

Ken O.

--part1_21.130b863d.29076b68_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>Hi everyone,
<BR>
<BR>Bungi has been awful quiet lately. I usually check it everyday and there hasn't been any activity. &nbsp;Regarding the foiler. &nbsp;I have the Inland and the Glasstar. Both are the double roll models. &nbsp;I think I like the Glasstar better. I don't have much luck foiling by hand. &nbsp;My eyes get crossed and the foil looks like the Great Wall of China. &nbsp;I still have to burnish it, but my wife doesn't hear the language from down in the basement.
<BR>
<BR>Have a good one,
<BR>
<BR>Ken O.</FONT></HTML>

--part1_21.130b863d.29076b68_boundary--
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Tue Oct 23 19:37:36 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15wDn1-0000A0a@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Tue, 23 Oct 2001 19:29:07 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: mail2.nai.net!shad
From: Family Account <shad@mail2.nai.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: NO Mail...
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 19:57:44 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@mail2.nai.net>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@massed.net>>
Precedence: bulk



I'm going into my busy, crazy part of the year.  I don't have a free Saturday
for the next eight (count 'em) weeks.  Part craft fairs, part holiday sales for
an art guild I belong to.  So we're making stuff like crazy.  Also have to get
out a big quote, reach another lady to talk about a design.  Just delivered two
commissions, one of which was fortunately a couple of miles from where my
daughter was competing in an intercollegiate horse show, so we got to go see her
ride.Tonight, so far, I have soldered a suncatcher, finished cutting out a horse
head.  I hope to start on a Victorian type design for a smallish panel.  I may
even sleep tonight...because I have to go to my full time job tomorrow and
wrestle with new software I just installed...knowing I'll be comlaining to the
software authors.

Not going ANYWHERE for Thanksgiving, but then I live near my children and
grandchildren, whereas my parents will be almost 3000 miles away.

Dorothy


----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Tue Oct 23 21:36:08 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15wFLy-00007da@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Tue, 23 Oct 2001 21:09:18 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: home.com!cecnralph
From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Subject: silver and gold clay
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 23:09:40 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>
Organization: Grendel Studio
Precedence: bulk

Have any of you done anything with the new silver and gold clays?

Are there any kinds of wire that can be used as decorative elements laid
on top of glass that you then fuse?  I know there are some foils but
that's not quite the same effect I want.  But I do want the wire to sink
into the glass some - tho maybe not completely embedded.

Cec

----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Tue Oct 23 21:53:15 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15wFYV-0000Aqa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Tue, 23 Oct 2001 21:22:15 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: home.com!cecnralph
From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: Re: Foiler
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 23:03:46 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>>
Organization: Grendel Studio
Precedence: bulk


--------------0F7FEAAEE3AE25903280C958
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

The Inland is no longer sold - with good reason - because it didn't just
stick the foil on - it pre-crumpled it.  If I want crumpled, I don't
need help.

Plus those little hand jobbies aren't worth buying.  For one thing, one
of the most common widths is actually off center - and in that size they
are all like that, cause I checked a bunch of them. - Cec

UserDusty@aol.com wrote:

> Hi everyone,
>
> Bungi has been awful quiet lately. I usually check it everyday and
> there hasn't been any activity.  Regarding the foiler.  I have the
> Inland and the Glasstar. Both are the double roll models.  I think I
> like the Glasstar better. I don't have much luck foiling by hand.  My
> eyes get crossed and the foil looks like the Great Wall of China.  I
> still have to burnish it, but my wife doesn't hear the language from
> down in the basement.
>
> Have a good one,
>
> Ken O.

--------------0F7FEAAEE3AE25903280C958
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<!doctype html public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en">
<html>
The Inland is no longer sold - with good reason - because it didn't just
stick the foil on - it pre-crumpled it.&nbsp; If I want crumpled, I don't
need help.
<p>Plus those little hand jobbies aren't worth buying.&nbsp; For one thing,
one of the most common widths is actually off center - and in that size
they are all like that, cause I checked a bunch of them. - Cec
<p>UserDusty@aol.com wrote:
<blockquote TYPE=CITE><font face="arial,helvetica"><font size=-1>Hi everyone,</font></font>
<p><font face="arial,helvetica"><font size=-1>Bungi has been awful quiet
lately. I usually check it everyday and there hasn't been any activity.&nbsp;
Regarding the foiler.&nbsp; I have the Inland and the Glasstar. Both are
the double roll models.&nbsp; I think I like the Glasstar better. I don't
have much luck foiling by hand.&nbsp; My eyes get crossed and the foil
looks like the Great Wall of China.&nbsp; I still have to burnish it, but
my wife doesn't hear the language from down in the basement.</font></font>
<p><font face="arial,helvetica"><font size=-1>Have a good one,</font></font>
<p><font face="arial,helvetica"><font size=-1>Ken O.</font></font></blockquote>
</html>

--------------0F7FEAAEE3AE25903280C958--

----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Wed Oct 24 00:07:19 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15wI0a-0000Cba@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Tue, 23 Oct 2001 23:59:24 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: home.com!byronw26
From: "Byron Wells" <byronw26@home.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: NO Mail...
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 22:40:21 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@massed.net>>
Precedence: bulk

Yea I liked the old way better where all replies were sent to bungi...
Seemed to keep more information going that way.. I of course understand why
Glenna did it this way (because of past flamefests) but a lot of
conversation seems to get lost or just sent to one person and the 'group'
suffers...

Byron...
Wells Glassworks

----- Original Message -----
From: "Elaine" <wmagdycz@massed.net>
To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2001 9:59 PM
Subject: Re: NO Mail...


> Can't get used to the email not automatically going to bungi. I did it
right
> this time. Elaine
>
> The last email that I got from Bungi was 8/22. I just started getting it
> again a few days ago after I emailed Glenna about it. Don't know what
> happened. Elaine
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Larry ." <createglass@hotmail.com>
> To: <marybdaily@hotmail.com>
> Sent: Monday, October 22, 2001 3:35 PM
> Subject: Re: NO Mail...
>
>
> >
> > I got your mail, Mary.
> > I haven't seen any mail lately either, but I think that the list is
still
> > working.  That, or we're just the lucky ones that can still get it.
> *grin*
> >
> > Larry
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > >From: "Mary B" <marybdaily@hotmail.com>
> > >To: glass@bungi.com
> > >Subject: NO Mail...
> > >Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 10:18:17 -0400
> > >
> > >Is there a problem with the bungi server. I've not received ANY mail
for
> > >almost a week? Usually have many messages each week. Please advise.
> > >
> > >MaryBinVA
> > >
> > >
> > >_________________________________________________________________
> > >Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
> http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
> > >
> > >----
> > >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > >To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> >
> >
> > _________________________________________________________________
> > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
> >
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> >
>
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>

----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Wed Oct 24 07:08:39 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15wOBs-0000Doa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Wed, 24 Oct 2001 06:35:28 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: doorpi.net!mmam5
From: mmam5@doorpi.net
To: shad@mail2.nai.net
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: Re: NO Mail...
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 8:05:15 EST
Message-ID: <200110241305.f9OD5KT29844@mail1.netacc.net>
Precedence: bulk

WOW Dorothy! 

Your Fall sounds like my spring earlier this year! Almost makes you wonder
when you became an overachiever! But when you get done with the projects
and see how happy the clients are, it makes it all worthwhile!!  

Hang in there! Sounds like you're doing a Great Job!

Marci

On Tue, 23 Oct 2001 19:57:44 -0400 Family Account wrote:

> 
> 
> I'm going into my busy, crazy part of the year.  I don't have a
> free Saturday
> for the next eight (count 'em) weeks.  Part craft fairs, part
> holiday sales for
> an art guild I belong to.  So we're making stuff like crazy.	Also
> have to get
> out a big quote, reach another lady to talk about a design.  Just
> delivered two
> commissions, one of which was fortunately a couple of miles from
> where my
> daughter was competing in an intercollegiate horse show, so we got
> to go see her
> ride.Tonight, so far, I have soldered a suncatcher, finished
> cutting out a horse
> head.  I hope to start on a Victorian type design for a smallish
> panel.  I may
> even sleep tonight...because I have to go to my full time job
> tomorrow and
> wrestle with new software I just installed...knowing I'll be
> comlaining to the
> software authors.
> 
> Not going ANYWHERE for Thanksgiving, but then I live near my
> children and
> grandchildren, whereas my parents will be almost 3000 miles away.
> 
> Dorothy
> 
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,	    please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Thu Oct 25 00:36:23 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15wekd-0000BRa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Thu, 25 Oct 2001 00:16:27 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: mindspring.com!boydz
From: boyd <boydz@mindspring.com>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: two questions
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 15:48:30 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@mindspring.com>
Precedence: bulk

hi everyone,

i have two -- probably quite simple -- questions for the group.

#1. mystery flux

a while back, i had the opportunity to use a flux that i *really* liked,
but can't seem to find (unfortunately, the teacher had no idea of the
name of the flux and it was stored in an old jam jar, so there was no
label!). it was a yellowish, oily substance -- i've been told that it
might have been oleic acid. it smoked a bit but not that excessively. i
was using it for a lot of lead work (rather than copper foil). i've got
a big leaded project coming up and i'd love to get some of this mystery
flux! (i *really* don't much like the water-based and gel fluxes i've
tried.) does anyone out there have any ideas what it might have been?
who manufactures it? where i might get some? i've tried websearches but
come up null. :-(

#2. cutting thick mirrors

i recently helped a friend clean out his attic and as a reward, got two
huge 1/4" thick mirrors (each about 24" x 48"). i'd like to cut them
into several smaller pieces (approx. 6" x 12") to use in some mosaic
mirror projects and i'm not sure how best to cut them. can i use a
standard glass cutter? (i don't have a glass saw). do i need a saw? do i
cut on mirrored side or the clear side? how do i keep the mirrored part
from peeling off? etc.

any help would be much appreciated!

--boyd

-- 

"History is the lie commonly agreed upon."

	 -- Voltaire

----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Thu Oct 25 05:51:20 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15wju1-0000B3a@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Thu, 25 Oct 2001 05:46:29 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: two questions
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 08:25:07 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com>
Precedence: bulk

Message text written by boyd
>Mystery flux: it was a yellowish, oily substance -- i've been told that =
it
might have been oleic acid. it smoked a bit but not that excessively. i
was using it for a lot of lead work (rather than copper foil). i've got
a big leaded project coming up and i'd love to get some of this mystery
flux! (i *really* don't much like the water-based and gel fluxes i've
tried.) does anyone out there have any ideas what it might have been?
who manufactures it? where i might get some?<

Sure sounds like oleic acid to me.  I could not find a source for it in m=
y
Hollander, Houston, Glass Emporium, Northwest Glass, or Rainbow suppliers=

catalogs.  Sorry.

<Cuttin large mirrors: i recently helped a friend clean out his attic and=

as a reward, got two
huge 1/4" thick mirrors (each about 24" x 48"). i'd like to cut them
into several smaller pieces (approx. 6" x 12") to use in some mosaic
mirror projects and i'm not sure how best to cut them. can i use a
standard glass cutter? (i don't have a glass saw). do i need a saw? do i
cut on mirrored side or the clear side? how do i keep the mirrored part
from peeling off? etc.>

You can cut 1/4" thick mirrors using a standard cutter.  On glass that
thick and heavy I like to use a
snapping motion off the end of the cutting table to get the first long
straight line to break well.  You do not
need a saw.  Regular cutters and running pliers are all that's needed.  C=
ut
on the clear side.  After cutting,
you need to clean the glass, dry it, then spray the mirrored side with
mirror sealant in order to keep the
"mirror rot" from occuring.  Mirror sealant is sold by most stained glass=

suppliers.

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
Denton, TX
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Thu Oct 25 07:18:46 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15wl7F-000038a@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Thu, 25 Oct 2001 07:04:13 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: stratus.com!Charlie.Spitzer
From: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie.Spitzer@stratus.com>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: RE: two questions
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 06:27:25 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@stratus.com>
Precedence: bulk



> -----Original Message-----
> From: boyd [mailto:boydz@mindspring.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2001 12:49 PM
> To: Bungi Glass
> Subject: two questions
> 
> 
> hi everyone,
> 
<snip> 
> #2. cutting thick mirrors
> 
> i recently helped a friend clean out his attic and as a 
> reward, got two
> huge 1/4" thick mirrors (each about 24" x 48"). i'd like to cut them
> into several smaller pieces (approx. 6" x 12") to use in some mosaic
> mirror projects and i'm not sure how best to cut them. can i use a
> standard glass cutter? (i don't have a glass saw). do i need 
> a saw? do i
> cut on mirrored side or the clear side? how do i keep the 
> mirrored part
> from peeling off? etc.
> 
> any help would be much appreciated!

there was an article by bert weiss in glass craftsman a few years ago about
cutting thick glass. 1/4" can be cut with regular tools. thicker is easier
to cut with different angled cutter wheels. there's also a tap cutter which
is good for thick glass. also it's lots harder to cut a small sliver off the
edge of thicker glass.

coat the back of the mirror and the edges with krylon clear spray, which is
cheaper than glass sealer sold in stained glass stores, and is pretty much
the same thing.

regards,
charlie
phx, az
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Thu Oct 25 10:04:40 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15wnTx-00008Va@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Thu, 25 Oct 2001 09:35:49 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: ci.redding.ca.us!lmyers
From: "Lynda Myers" <lmyers@ci.redding.ca.us>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: Stained Glass Supply Resource
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 08:38:32 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@ci.redding.ca.us>
Precedence: bulk

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0009_01C15D30.6DA926E0
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I am new to the art of stained glass and absolutely loving it!!  =
However, I live in a relatively small town and the only place I know to =
buy supplies is from the instructor who taught me.  While he is awesome =
and I don't think he's overcharging me, he doesn't always have the =
colors, textures etc. of the glass and/or supplies that I want.  I live =
in northern Northern California, about 2 1/2 hrs north of sacramento.  =
Can anyone suggest a good retailer: online, mail order or direct?  Also, =
if I get my business license does anyone know where I can buy wholesale?

Any help would be much appreciated!!

------=_NextPart_000_0009_01C15D30.6DA926E0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2314.1000" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I am new to the art of stained glass =
and absolutely=20
loving it!!&nbsp; However, I live in a relatively small town and the =
only place=20
I know to buy supplies is from the instructor who taught me.&nbsp; While =
he is=20
awesome and I don't think he's overcharging me, he doesn't always have =
the=20
colors, textures etc. of the glass and/or supplies that I want.&nbsp; I =
live in=20
northern Northern California, about 2 1/2 hrs north of sacramento.&nbsp; =
Can=20
anyone suggest a good retailer: online, mail order or direct?&nbsp; =
Also, if I=20
get my business license does anyone know where I can buy =
wholesale?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Any help would be much=20
appreciated!!</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0009_01C15D30.6DA926E0--

----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Thu Oct 25 15:32:29 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15wsXt-00009Za@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Thu, 25 Oct 2001 15:00:13 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
Subject: wires & fusing
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 22:07:02 +0100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@verrier>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Cec,
        I don't know what silver and gold clay might be.  Can you
enlighten me?
        Generally, copper and brass wires incorporate well with fusing.
It does depend on the diameter of the wire as to how they will sink into
the glass.  smaller, thinner pieces sit on top of the glass, lift off
and leave a mark. Thicker, almost rod-like pieces will sink into the
glass and become fixed, but they are about 1/8 inch diameter.  
        What about using an epoxy resin to fix the wire to the glass, or
wrap the piece in a cage of wire?  I don't know!

Steve


In message <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>, Cecily & Ralph Wood
<cecnralph@home.com> writes
>Have any of you done anything with the new silver and gold clays?
>
>Are there any kinds of wire that can be used as decorative elements laid
>on top of glass that you then fuse?  I know there are some foils but
>that's not quite the same effect I want.  But I do want the wire to sink
>into the glass some - tho maybe not completely embedded.
>
>Cec
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Thu Oct 25 17:36:07 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15wuis-0000FSa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Thu, 25 Oct 2001 17:19:42 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: boyd <boydz@mindspring.com>
Subject: Suggestions on cutting mirror ( Was:two questions)
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 22:45:34 +0100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@verrier>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@mindspring.com>>
Precedence: bulk

In message <1970Jan1.000.0@mindspring.com>, boyd <boydz@mindspring.com>
writes
>hi everyone,
>
>i have two -- probably quite simple -- questions for the group.
>
>#1. mystery flux
......cut.........
>
>#2. cutting thick mirrors
>
>i recently helped a friend clean out his attic and as a reward, got two
>huge 1/4" thick mirrors (each about 24" x 48"). i'd like to cut them
>into several smaller pieces (approx. 6" x 12") to use in some mosaic
>mirror projects and i'm not sure how best to cut them. can i use a
>standard glass cutter? (i don't have a glass saw). do i need a saw? do i
>cut on mirrored side or the clear side? how do i keep the mirrored part
>from peeling off? etc.
>
Boyd,
        A standard glass cutter will be sufficient to cut the mirror.
Score the clear side as with thinner glass.  That is, just because the
glass is thicker, you do not apply more pressure to the cutter.  
        Mark the ends of the score lines on the edge of the mirror, turn
the mirror over and use a very sharp craft knife to make a line in the
backing and silvering, just as you would for a "Formica" work top that
you were going to cut. 
        Now turn back with the clear side up.  move the glass score line
to just inside the edge of the bench.  Press down sharply on the strip
(keeping hold of it of course).  It should break away with a loud sound.
The larger strip you are taking off the easier, so start with the 12"
dimension, and then break off the 6" from the resulting strip.  You may
find that you want to do larger mirrors with this glass than 6 x 12.

Best wishes
Steve 
-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Thu Oct 25 18:07:59 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15wuwc-0000Fja@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Thu, 25 Oct 2001 17:33:54 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: juno.com!pkinnetz
From: Peggy L Kinnetz <pkinnetz@juno.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: Re: NO Mail...
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 07:10:01 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@juno.com>
Precedence: bulk

I also like the old way of just hitting a reply button and the answer
goes to the list.   I came on just at the change over, and missed the
flamewars fortunately, but am wondering now maybe there has been
sufficient time to heal.  the list does seem to suffer as there is no
extended conversation, as it carried on privately, more by accident as
its easier to hit reply than to rewite the bungi address. Could we try
again?  Peggy K.

On Tue, 23 Oct 2001 22:40:21 -0500 "Byron Wells" <byronw26@home.com>
writes:
> Yea I liked the old way better where all replies were sent to 
> bungi...
> Seemed to keep more information going that way.. I of course 
> understand why
> Glenna did it this way (because of past flamefests) but a lot of
> conversation seems to get lost or just sent to one person and the 
> 'group'
> suffers...
> 
> Byron...
> Wells Glassworks
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Elaine" <wmagdycz@massed.net>
> To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
> Sent: Monday, October 22, 2001 9:59 PM
> Subject: Re: NO Mail...
> 
> 
> > Can't get used to the email not automatically going to bungi. I 
> did it
> right
> > this time. Elaine
> >
> > The last email that I got from Bungi was 8/22. I just started 
> getting it
> > again a few days ago after I emailed Glenna about it. Don't know 
> what
> > happened. Elaine
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Larry ." <createglass@hotmail.com>
> > To: <marybdaily@hotmail.com>
> > Sent: Monday, October 22, 2001 3:35 PM
> > Subject: Re: NO Mail...
> >
> >
> > >
> > > I got your mail, Mary.
> > > I haven't seen any mail lately either, but I think that the list 
> is
> still
> > > working.  That, or we're just the lucky ones that can still get 
> it.
> > *grin*
> > >
> > > Larry
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > >From: "Mary B" <marybdaily@hotmail.com>
> > > >To: glass@bungi.com
> > > >Subject: NO Mail...
> > > >Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 10:18:17 -0400
> > > >
> > > >Is there a problem with the bungi server. I've not received ANY 
> mail
> for
> > > >almost a week? Usually have many messages each week. Please 
> advise.
> > > >
> > > >MaryBinVA
> > > >
> > > >
> > > 
> >_________________________________________________________________
> > > >Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
> > http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
> > > >
> > > >----
> > > >For subscription changes, please mail to: 
> glass-request@bungi.com
> > > >To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > > >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> > >
> > >
> > > 
> _________________________________________________________________
> > > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
> http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
> > >
> > > ----
> > > For subscription changes, please mail to: 
> glass-request@bungi.com
> > > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> > >
> >
> >
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> >
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Thu Oct 25 18:24:02 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15wuyF-0000Aza@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Thu, 25 Oct 2001 17:35:35 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: mindspring.com!boydz
From: boyd <boydz@mindspring.com>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: many thanks! (re. two questions)
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 19:46:12 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@mindspring.com>
Precedence: bulk


hi everyone,

thank you all so very much for your suggestions and advice, you've all
been so helpful. 

this is such a wonderful list! 

--boyd

-- 

"History is the lie commonly agreed upon."

	 -- Voltaire

----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Thu Oct 25 19:14:29 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15wvyB-0000Cba@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Thu, 25 Oct 2001 18:39:35 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: verizon.net!moya.oneal
From: "Moya O'Neal" <moya.oneal@verizon.net>
To: "Lynda Myers" <lmyers@ci.redding.ca.us>, <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Stained Glass Supply Resource
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 21:14:05 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@verizon.net>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@ci.redding.ca.us>>
Precedence: bulk

Hi Lynda,
I don't think you can beat "Anything in Stained Glass" for service,
selection or price in either retail or wholesale pricing.  You can buy
directly from many sources on the net.  Spectrum Glass, Armstrong Glass,
just do a search of "stained glass suppliers" and you will find oodles.
Good luck.
Moya
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lynda Myers" <lmyers@ci.redding.ca.us>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2001 11:38 AM
Subject: Stained Glass Supply Resource


> This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
>
> ------=_NextPart_000_0009_01C15D30.6DA926E0
> Content-Type: text/plain;
> charset="iso-8859-1"
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
>
> I am new to the art of stained glass and absolutely loving it!!  =
> However, I live in a relatively small town and the only place I know to =
> buy supplies is from the instructor who taught me.  While he is awesome =
> and I don't think he's overcharging me, he doesn't always have the =
> colors, textures etc. of the glass and/or supplies that I want.  I live =
> in northern Northern California, about 2 1/2 hrs north of sacramento.  =
> Can anyone suggest a good retailer: online, mail order or direct?  Also, =
> if I get my business license does anyone know where I can buy wholesale?
>
> Any help would be much appreciated!!
>
> ------=_NextPart_000_0009_01C15D30.6DA926E0
> Content-Type: text/html;
> charset="iso-8859-1"
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
>
> <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
> <HTML><HEAD>
> <META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
> http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
> <META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2314.1000" name=3DGENERATOR>
> <STYLE></STYLE>
> </HEAD>
> <BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I am new to the art of stained glass =
> and absolutely=20
> loving it!!&nbsp; However, I live in a relatively small town and the =
> only place=20
> I know to buy supplies is from the instructor who taught me.&nbsp; While =
> he is=20
> awesome and I don't think he's overcharging me, he doesn't always have =
> the=20
> colors, textures etc. of the glass and/or supplies that I want.&nbsp; I =
> live in=20
> northern Northern California, about 2 1/2 hrs north of sacramento.&nbsp; =
> Can=20
> anyone suggest a good retailer: online, mail order or direct?&nbsp; =
> Also, if I=20
> get my business license does anyone know where I can buy =
> wholesale?</FONT></DIV>
> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Any help would be much=20
> appreciated!!</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
>
> ------=_NextPart_000_0009_01C15D30.6DA926E0--
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>

----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Thu Oct 25 19:25:42 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15wvzu-0000G9a@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Thu, 25 Oct 2001 18:41:22 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: verizon.net!moya.oneal
From: "Moya O'Neal" <moya.oneal@verizon.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: Re: two questions
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 20:55:43 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@verizon.net>
Precedence: bulk

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C15D97.697E1500
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Boyd,
1.  It may well have been oleic acid.  It is a rather toxic substance, =
thus we try to use less toxic items for our own health.  For example, =
acid free flux and lead free solder.
2.  Cutting mirror is pretty easy.  Cut on the clear side and break like =
any other glass.  I always like to wrap my mirror in paper to keep from =
getting scratches on front or back.  To preserve the mirror finish, when =
I cut the piece to the size I need, I apply a pretty thick coat of clear =
nail polish to the cut edge of the mirror being sure that the nail =
polish also includes some of the mirror backing so that the edges =
between the mirror back and the clear glass are completely sealed.  Let =
the polish dry thoroughly before foiling or leading and use flux very =
sparingly when soldering.  Clean carefully and use a flux neutralizer =
(like baking soda) to be sure all flux is off your piece, especially the =
mirror.=20
Seems like a lot of trouble I know, but the end result is years of =
pristine mirror.
Moya

------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C15D97.697E1500
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4522.1800" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>Boyd,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>1.&nbsp; It may well have been oleic acid.&nbsp; =
It is a=20
rather toxic substance, thus we try to use less toxic items for our own=20
health.&nbsp; For example, acid free flux and lead free =
solder.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>2.&nbsp; Cutting mirror is pretty easy.&nbsp; =
Cut on the=20
clear side and break like any other glass.&nbsp; I always like to wrap =
my mirror=20
in paper to keep from getting scratches on front or back.&nbsp; To =
preserve the=20
mirror finish, when I cut the piece to the size I need, I apply a pretty =
thick=20
coat of clear nail polish to the cut edge of the mirror being sure that =
the nail=20
polish also includes some of the mirror backing so that the edges =
between the=20
mirror back and the clear glass are completely sealed.&nbsp; Let the =
polish dry=20
thoroughly before foiling or leading and use flux very sparingly when=20
soldering.&nbsp; Clean carefully and use a flux neutralizer (like baking =
soda)=20
to be sure all flux is off your piece, especially the mirror. =
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>Seems like a lot of trouble I know, but the end =
result is=20
years of pristine mirror.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>Moya</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C15D97.697E1500--

----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Thu Oct 25 19:47:48 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15wweh-0000FLa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Thu, 25 Oct 2001 19:23:31 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: massed.net!wmagdycz
From: "Elaine" <wmagdycz@massed.net>
To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: NO Mail...
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 22:26:56 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@massed.net>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@juno.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Here's the twice darn it ....here I am talking about it and I go and do it
again! Sorry Peggy.

At one time I was watching for answers to a question that would have been
very useful to me. First was the question, next was the originator thanking
everybody for all their help - zilch in between. Seems like I'm always
sending an email (which is not to often) twice - once the wrong way, then
oops, second time to the board.  It's been a long without the flaming, so
maybe...............Elaine

----- Original Message -----
From: "Peggy L Kinnetz" <pkinnetz@juno.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2001 4:10 AM
Subject: Re: NO Mail...


> I also like the old way of just hitting a reply button and the answer
> goes to the list.   I came on just at the change over, and missed the
> flamewars fortunately, but am wondering now maybe there has been
> sufficient time to heal.  the list does seem to suffer as there is no
> extended conversation, as it carried on privately, more by accident as
> its easier to hit reply than to rewite the bungi address. Could we try
> again?  Peggy K.
>
> On Tue, 23 Oct 2001 22:40:21 -0500 "Byron Wells" <byronw26@home.com>
> writes:
> > Yea I liked the old way better where all replies were sent to
> > bungi...
> > Seemed to keep more information going that way.. I of course
> > understand why
> > Glenna did it this way (because of past flamefests) but a lot of
> > conversation seems to get lost or just sent to one person and the
> > 'group'
> > suffers...
> >
> > Byron...
> > Wells Glassworks
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Elaine" <wmagdycz@massed.net>
> > To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
> > Sent: Monday, October 22, 2001 9:59 PM
> > Subject: Re: NO Mail...
> >
> >
> > > Can't get used to the email not automatically going to bungi. I
> > did it
> > right
> > > this time. Elaine
> > >
> > > The last email that I got from Bungi was 8/22. I just started
> > getting it
> > > again a few days ago after I emailed Glenna about it. Don't know
> > what
> > > happened. Elaine
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Larry ." <createglass@hotmail.com>
> > > To: <marybdaily@hotmail.com>
> > > Sent: Monday, October 22, 2001 3:35 PM
> > > Subject: Re: NO Mail...
> > >
> > >
> > > >
> > > > I got your mail, Mary.
> > > > I haven't seen any mail lately either, but I think that the list
> > is
> > still
> > > > working.  That, or we're just the lucky ones that can still get
> > it.
> > > *grin*
> > > >
> > > > Larry
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > >From: "Mary B" <marybdaily@hotmail.com>
> > > > >To: glass@bungi.com
> > > > >Subject: NO Mail...
> > > > >Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 10:18:17 -0400
> > > > >
> > > > >Is there a problem with the bungi server. I've not received ANY
> > mail
> > for
> > > > >almost a week? Usually have many messages each week. Please
> > advise.
> > > > >
> > > > >MaryBinVA
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >_________________________________________________________________
> > > > >Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
> > > http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
> > > > >
> > > > >----
> > > > >For subscription changes, please mail to:
> > glass-request@bungi.com
> > > > >To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > > > >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > _________________________________________________________________
> > > > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
> > http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
> > > >
> > > > ----
> > > > For subscription changes, please mail to:
> > glass-request@bungi.com
> > > > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > > > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ----
> > > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> > >
> >
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>


----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Thu Oct 25 20:44:20 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15wxYt-0000Fwa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Thu, 25 Oct 2001 20:21:35 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: home.com!cecnralph
From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
To: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>,
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Subject: Re: wires & fusing
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 21:47:48 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>
References: <<Fet16KA27H27Ew0n@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>>
Organization: Grendel Studio
Precedence: bulk

The latest ssue of Glass Craftsman that just came had an article on the
silver and gold clay stuff, and I just wondered if people had had any
experience, because it looks interesting, although I wasn't enthused over
the example they made.  It is a mix of silver or gold and some clay-like
mixture that you can form by hand, just as you would use clay or Feemo or
whatever.  You can water it down, and or reuse scraps not fired.  So I guess
you could make slip and paint on the glass surface?  You then fire it in a
kiln (silver @ 1600º F and the gold at a higher temperature, just as you
would glass or pottery - after thoroughly drying it first, of course.  And I
don't understand if the clay like subatance evaporates, leaving the silver
or gold, or whether the silver/gold infuses the mixture so it appears
silver/gold, but at any rate you end up with something that appears to be
silver or gold, which apparently can be buffed for a shinier look.  If you
are incorporating glass in it prior to firing, you have to be careful
because the glass has a different COE than the silver/gold. - Cec

Steve Richard wrote:

> Cec,
>         I don't know what silver and gold clay might be.  Can you
> enlighten me?
>         Generally, copper and brass wires incorporate well with fusing.
> It does depend on the diameter of the wire as to how they will sink into
> the glass.  smaller, thinner pieces sit on top of the glass, lift off
> and leave a mark. Thicker, almost rod-like pieces will sink into the
> glass and become fixed, but they are about 1/8 inch diameter.
>         What about using an epoxy resin to fix the wire to the glass, or
> wrap the piece in a cage of wire?  I don't know!
>
> Steve
>
> In message <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>, Cecily & Ralph Wood
> <cecnralph@home.com> writes
> >Have any of you done anything with the new silver and gold clays?
> >
> >Are there any kinds of wire that can be used as decorative elements laid
> >on top of glass that you then fuse?  I know there are some foils but
> >that's not quite the same effect I want.  But I do want the wire to sink
> >into the glass some - tho maybe not completely embedded.
> >
> >Cec
> >
> >----
> >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> >To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
> --
> Steve Richard
> Verrier Art Glass Ltd
> s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk

----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Thu Oct 25 20:53:49 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15wxZZ-0000Fya@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Thu, 25 Oct 2001 20:22:17 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: home.com!cecnralph
From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
To: boyd <boydz@mindspring.com>, Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Subject: Re: two questions
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 22:40:32 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@mindspring.com>>
Organization: Grendel Studio
Precedence: bulk

Several years ago I couldn't get Canfield's Solder-Mate II (zinc chloride
and ammonium chloride) - everyone was out of it, so I scarfed up a bunch of
various fluxes to try, non of which do I like as much as the Solder-Mate
II.  But I was certain I had a bottle of oleic acid among the not favored
ones.  So after checking, I discovere it is Canfield's Solder-Mate Soleic -
essentially oleic acid.  Don't know if they even make it any more.  What I
did like that is similar are the tallow "candles" you can get in the UK.
Thety have no wick, and you just rub them on the spot and solder.  I tried
using them when foiling, and it isn't as successful as it is with lead
came. - Cec

boyd wrote:

> hi everyone,
>
> i have two -- probably quite simple -- questions for the group.
>
> #1. mystery flux
>
> a while back, i had the opportunity to use a flux that i *really* liked,
> but can't seem to find (unfortunately, the teacher had no idea of the
> name of the flux and it was stored in an old jam jar, so there was no
> label!). it was a yellowish, oily substance -- i've been told that it
> might have been oleic acid. it smoked a bit but not that excessively. i
> was using it for a lot of lead work (rather than copper foil). i've got
> a big leaded project coming up and i'd love to get some of this mystery
> flux! (i *really* don't much like the water-based and gel fluxes i've
> tried.) does anyone out there have any ideas what it might have been?
> who manufactures it? where i might get some? i've tried websearches but
> come up null. :-(
>
> #2. cutting thick mirrors
>
> i recently helped a friend clean out his attic and as a reward, got two
> huge 1/4" thick mirrors (each about 24" x 48"). i'd like to cut them
> into several smaller pieces (approx. 6" x 12") to use in some mosaic
> mirror projects and i'm not sure how best to cut them. can i use a
> standard glass cutter? (i don't have a glass saw). do i need a saw? do i
> cut on mirrored side or the clear side? how do i keep the mirrored part
> from peeling off? etc.
>
> any help would be much appreciated!
>
> --boyd
>
> --
>
> "History is the lie commonly agreed upon."
>
>          -- Voltaire
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Thu Oct 25 22:23:49 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15wz5d-0000BAa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Thu, 25 Oct 2001 21:59:29 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: softhouse.com!giapet
From: "Karen K" <giapet@softhouse.com>
To: "Cecily & Ralph Wood" <cecnralph@home.com>
Subject: Re: wires & fusing
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 00:52:25 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@softhouse.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>>
Precedence: bulk


It must burn off the clay cause it shrinks.  One type shrinks more than
other (30% vs. 12%).  A friend of mine just purchased some don't think
she has had time to use it yet.

Karen
giapet@softhouse.com

> The latest ssue of Glass Craftsman that just came had an article on
the
> silver and gold clay stuff, and I just wondered if people had had any
> experience, because it looks interesting, although I wasn't enthused
over
> the example they made.  It is a mix of silver or gold and some
clay-like
> mixture that you can form by hand, just as you would use clay or Feemo
or
> whatever.  You can water it down, and or reuse scraps not fired.  So I
guess
> you could make slip and paint on the glass surface?  You then fire it
in a
> kiln (silver @ 1600º F and the gold at a higher temperature, just as
you
> would glass or pottery - after thoroughly drying it first, of course.
And I
> don't understand if the clay like subatance evaporates, leaving the
silver
> or gold, or whether the silver/gold infuses the mixture so it appears
> silver/gold, but at any rate you end up with something that appears to
be
> silver or gold, which apparently can be buffed for a shinier look.  If
you
> are incorporating glass in it prior to firing, you have to be careful
> because the glass has a different COE than the silver/gold. - Cec
>
> Steve Richard wrote:
>
> > Cec,
> >         I don't know what silver and gold clay might be.  Can you
> > enlighten me?
> >         Generally, copper and brass wires incorporate well with
fusing.
> > It does depend on the diameter of the wire as to how they will sink
into
> > the glass.  smaller, thinner pieces sit on top of the glass, lift
off
> > and leave a mark. Thicker, almost rod-like pieces will sink into the
> > glass and become fixed, but they are about 1/8 inch diameter.
> >         What about using an epoxy resin to fix the wire to the
glass, or
> > wrap the piece in a cage of wire?  I don't know!
> >
> > Steve
> >
> > In message <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>, Cecily & Ralph Wood
> > <cecnralph@home.com> writes
> > >Have any of you done anything with the new silver and gold clays?
> > >
> > >Are there any kinds of wire that can be used as decorative elements
laid
> > >on top of glass that you then fuse?  I know there are some foils
but
> > >that's not quite the same effect I want.  But I do want the wire to
sink
> > >into the glass some - tho maybe not completely embedded.
> > >
> > >Cec
> > >
> > >----
> > >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > >To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> >
> > --
> > Steve Richard
> > Verrier Art Glass Ltd
> > s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>


----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Fri Oct 26 02:08:31 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15x2qL-0000HLa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Fri, 26 Oct 2001 01:59:57 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: home.com!cecnralph
From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Subject: Swiss Sponge
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 01:56:00 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>
Organization: Grendel Studio
Precedence: bulk

I want to get my hands on something called the Swiss Sponge.  It is a
relatively flat and tight sponge, good for cleaning the tip of your
iron, lasts a long time, AND it has holes (whence the name Swiss as in
holey cheese).  The holes are wonderful because the excess solder plops
down the holes instead of getting entangled in the sponge itself.  Pick
it up, dump the solder scraps, and wash the sponge.  I tried punching
holes in another soldering iron sponge and my hand was so sore I could
barely used it for a week, and my paper punch just didn't give big
enough holes.

The place where I got mine always has it "on order" and it either "just
came in and is all gone" or is back ordered.  Does anybody know who
makes it and where I can get a supply?  Thanks - Cec

----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Fri Oct 26 05:46:03 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15x5yc-0000EIa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Fri, 26 Oct 2001 05:20:42 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Stained Glass Supply Resource
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 08:17:20 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com>
Precedence: bulk

Message text written by "Lynda Myers"
>in northern Northern California, about 2 1/2 hrs north of sacramento.  =3D=

Can anyone suggest a good retailer: online, mail order or direct?  Also, =
=3D
if I get my business license does anyone know where I can buy wholesale?<=


Try going to the International Guild of Glass Artists (IGGA) website at
www.igga.org and look under their members and suppliers listings.  They
have them by state.  Once a year IGGA publishes the Sources Guide, which
lists all the suppliers, including all the wholesale distributors.

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
Denton, TX
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Fri Oct 26 06:51:09 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15x7CK-0000HFa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Fri, 26 Oct 2001 06:38:56 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: cableone.net!bigoil94
From: "Joseph T." <bigoil94@cableone.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: Please unscubscribe me from the mailing list
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 07:06:16 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@cableone.net>
Precedence: bulk

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0018_01C15DEC.B4B7E460
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Please take me off the mailing list.....to much E-mail....thanks

or send me the address that will take me off....thanks
bigoil94@cableone.net


------=_NextPart_000_0018_01C15DEC.B4B7E460
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2600.0" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Please take me off the mailing =
list.....to much=20
E-mail....thanks</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>or send me the address that will take =
me=20
off....thanks</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"mailto:bigoil94@cableone.net">bigoil94@cableone.net</A></FONT></D=
IV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0018_01C15DEC.B4B7E460--

----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Fri Oct 26 09:05:47 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15x9Iw-0000G7a@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Fri, 26 Oct 2001 08:53:54 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: home.com!byronw26
From: "Byron Wells" <byronw26@home.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: NO Mail...
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 10:25:32 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@juno.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Perhaps if everyone promised to behave themselves and not post a barrage of
non-glass posts Glenna would change it back. Mostly what started the
problems in the past were people chit-chatting about all sorts of non glass
topics instead of emailing that sort of stuff person to person. Then other
folks would get mad about the non glass stuff that was filling their mailbox
and the fight would be on...

I personally think the old way lead to much more activity and sharing of
ideas but it's not my decision..

Byron...
Wells Glassworks

----- Original Message -----
From: "Peggy L Kinnetz" <pkinnetz@juno.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2001 6:10 AM
Subject: Re: NO Mail...


> I also like the old way of just hitting a reply button and the answer
> goes to the list.   I came on just at the change over, and missed the
> flamewars fortunately, but am wondering now maybe there has been
> sufficient time to heal.  the list does seem to suffer as there is no
> extended conversation, as it carried on privately, more by accident as
> its easier to hit reply than to rewite the bungi address. Could we try
> again?  Peggy K.
>
> On Tue, 23 Oct 2001 22:40:21 -0500 "Byron Wells" <byronw26@home.com>
> writes:
> > Yea I liked the old way better where all replies were sent to
> > bungi...
> > Seemed to keep more information going that way.. I of course
> > understand why
> > Glenna did it this way (because of past flamefests) but a lot of
> > conversation seems to get lost or just sent to one person and the
> > 'group'
> > suffers...
> >
> > Byron...
> > Wells Glassworks
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Elaine" <wmagdycz@massed.net>
> > To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
> > Sent: Monday, October 22, 2001 9:59 PM
> > Subject: Re: NO Mail...
> >
> >
> > > Can't get used to the email not automatically going to bungi. I
> > did it
> > right
> > > this time. Elaine
> > >
> > > The last email that I got from Bungi was 8/22. I just started
> > getting it
> > > again a few days ago after I emailed Glenna about it. Don't know
> > what
> > > happened. Elaine
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Larry ." <createglass@hotmail.com>
> > > To: <marybdaily@hotmail.com>
> > > Sent: Monday, October 22, 2001 3:35 PM
> > > Subject: Re: NO Mail...
> > >
> > >
> > > >
> > > > I got your mail, Mary.
> > > > I haven't seen any mail lately either, but I think that the list
> > is
> > still
> > > > working.  That, or we're just the lucky ones that can still get
> > it.
> > > *grin*
> > > >
> > > > Larry
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > >From: "Mary B" <marybdaily@hotmail.com>
> > > > >To: glass@bungi.com
> > > > >Subject: NO Mail...
> > > > >Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 10:18:17 -0400
> > > > >
> > > > >Is there a problem with the bungi server. I've not received ANY
> > mail
> > for
> > > > >almost a week? Usually have many messages each week. Please
> > advise.
> > > > >
> > > > >MaryBinVA
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >_________________________________________________________________
> > > > >Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
> > > http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
> > > > >
> > > > >----
> > > > >For subscription changes, please mail to:
> > glass-request@bungi.com
> > > > >To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > > > >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > _________________________________________________________________
> > > > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
> > http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
> > > >
> > > > ----
> > > > For subscription changes, please mail to:
> > glass-request@bungi.com
> > > > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > > > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ----
> > > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> > >
> >
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Fri Oct 26 10:04:37 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15xACg-0000GGa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Fri, 26 Oct 2001 09:51:30 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: lvcm.com!ejr929
From: "Ed Rogers" <ejr929@lvcm.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: NO Mail...
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 09:36:57 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@lvcm.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>>
Precedence: bulk

I totally agree with Byron Wells.  Keep the messages restricted to =
Stained Glass.  When I suggested this a year or so ago, I was deluged =
with criticism -- so I became a lurker and have not participated since.  =
For "bungi" to work, everyone has to see all the questions and all the =
answers.  Otherwise, it's effectiveness is a tiny fraction of its =
potential.
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
 E-mail from: Ed Rogers=20
 EJR929@LVCM.COM
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
----- Original Message -----=20
From: "Byron Wells" <byronw26@home.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Friday, October 26, 2001 8:25 AM
Subject: Re: NO Mail...


> Perhaps if everyone promised to behave themselves and not post a =
barrage of
> non-glass posts Glenna would change it back. Mostly what started the
> problems in the past were people chit-chatting about all sorts of non =
glass
> topics instead of emailing that sort of stuff person to person. Then =
other
> folks would get mad about the non glass stuff that was filling their =
mailbox
> and the fight would be on...
>=20
> I personally think the old way lead to much more activity and sharing =
of
> ideas but it's not my decision..
>=20
> Byron...
> Wells Glassworks
>=20
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Peggy L Kinnetz" <pkinnetz@juno.com>
> To: <glass@bungi.com>
> Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2001 6:10 AM
> Subject: Re: NO Mail...
>=20
>=20
> > I also like the old way of just hitting a reply button and the =
answer
> > goes to the list.   I came on just at the change over, and missed =
the
> > flamewars fortunately, but am wondering now maybe there has been
> > sufficient time to heal.  the list does seem to suffer as there is =
no
> > extended conversation, as it carried on privately, more by accident =
as
> > its easier to hit reply than to rewite the bungi address. Could we =
try
> > again?  Peggy K.
> >
> > On Tue, 23 Oct 2001 22:40:21 -0500 "Byron Wells" <byronw26@home.com>
> > writes:
> > > Yea I liked the old way better where all replies were sent to
> > > bungi...
> > > Seemed to keep more information going that way.. I of course
> > > understand why
> > > Glenna did it this way (because of past flamefests) but a lot of
> > > conversation seems to get lost or just sent to one person and the
> > > 'group'
> > > suffers...
> > >
> > > Byron...
> > > Wells Glassworks
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Elaine" <wmagdycz@massed.net>
> > > To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
> > > Sent: Monday, October 22, 2001 9:59 PM
> > > Subject: Re: NO Mail...
> > >
> > >
> > > > Can't get used to the email not automatically going to bungi. I
> > > did it
> > > right
> > > > this time. Elaine
> > > >
> > > > The last email that I got from Bungi was 8/22. I just started
> > > getting it
> > > > again a few days ago after I emailed Glenna about it. Don't know
> > > what
> > > > happened. Elaine
> > > >
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: "Larry ." <createglass@hotmail.com>
> > > > To: <marybdaily@hotmail.com>
> > > > Sent: Monday, October 22, 2001 3:35 PM
> > > > Subject: Re: NO Mail...
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > I got your mail, Mary.
> > > > > I haven't seen any mail lately either, but I think that the =
list
> > > is
> > > still
> > > > > working.  That, or we're just the lucky ones that can still =
get
> > > it.
> > > > *grin*
> > > > >
> > > > > Larry
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > >From: "Mary B" <marybdaily@hotmail.com>
> > > > > >To: glass@bungi.com
> > > > > >Subject: NO Mail...
> > > > > >Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 10:18:17 -0400
> > > > > >
> > > > > >Is there a problem with the bungi server. I've not received =
ANY
> > > mail
> > > for
> > > > > >almost a week? Usually have many messages each week. Please
> > > advise.
> > > > > >
> > > > > >MaryBinVA
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >_________________________________________________________________
> > > > > >Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
> > > > http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
> > > > > >
> > > > > >----
> > > > > >For subscription changes, please mail to:
> > > glass-request@bungi.com
> > > > > >To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > > > > >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > _________________________________________________________________
> > > > > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
> > > http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
> > > > >
> > > > > ----
> > > > > For subscription changes, please mail to:
> > > glass-request@bungi.com
> > > > > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > > > > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > ----
> > > > For subscription changes, please mail to: =
glass-request@bungi.com
> > > > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > > > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> > > >
> > >
> > > ----
> > > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>=20
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Fri Oct 26 11:08:24 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15xAoA-0000EAa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Fri, 26 Oct 2001 10:30:14 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: aol.com!WaynLinda
From: WaynLinda@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: no mail
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 13:29:00 EDT
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>
Precedence: bulk

I am brand new to stained glass and to this list, but I love it! I don't know 
what happened in the past, but I promise to behave!
Linda
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Fri Oct 26 11:24:04 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15xAsa-00009la@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Fri, 26 Oct 2001 10:34:48 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: stratus.com!Charlie.Spitzer
From: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie.Spitzer@stratus.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: RE: NO Mail...
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 09:28:20 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@stratus.com>
Precedence: bulk

almost every email program i've heard about has a reply-all and a reply
button. if people used that there wouldn't be this 'problem'.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Byron Wells [mailto:byronw26@home.com]
> Sent: Friday, October 26, 2001 8:26 AM
> To: glass@bungi.com
> Subject: Re: NO Mail...
> 
> 
> Perhaps if everyone promised to behave themselves and not 
> post a barrage of
> non-glass posts Glenna would change it back. Mostly what started the
> problems in the past were people chit-chatting about all 
> sorts of non glass
> topics instead of emailing that sort of stuff person to 
> person. Then other
> folks would get mad about the non glass stuff that was 
> filling their mailbox
> and the fight would be on...
> 
> I personally think the old way lead to much more activity and 
> sharing of
> ideas but it's not my decision..
> 
> Byron...
> Wells Glassworks
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Fri Oct 26 11:32:32 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15xAwY-0000ESa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Fri, 26 Oct 2001 10:38:54 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: juno.com!pkinnetz
From: Peggy L Kinnetz <pkinnetz@juno.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: Re: two questions
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 13:10:09 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@juno.com>
Precedence: bulk

Charlie, I think I tried to back order this one, but was told that they
did not have any more copies. (At least I think it was this article-- I
was ordering several different backcopies at the time, so I may have it
confused.). Would it be possible to copy the article, and post it in the
archives or to send a copy to me?  Or anyone else, any ideas how to get
hold of this article?

Also where would you get the special tools?  I can't seem to recall
having seen anything in the catalogs.

Peggy K.

On Thu, 25 Oct 2001 06:27:25 -0700 "Spitzer, Charlie"
<Charlie.Spitzer@stratus.com> writes:
> 
> 
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: boyd [mailto:boydz@mindspring.com]
> > Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2001 12:49 PM
> > To: Bungi Glass
> > Subject: two questions
> > 
> > 
> > hi everyone,
> > 
> <snip> 
> > #2. cutting thick mirrors
> > 
> > i recently helped a friend clean out his attic and as a 
> > reward, got two
> > huge 1/4" thick mirrors (each about 24" x 48"). i'd like to cut 
> them
> > into several smaller pieces (approx. 6" x 12") to use in some 
> mosaic
> > mirror projects and i'm not sure how best to cut them. can i use a
> > standard glass cutter? (i don't have a glass saw). do i need 
> > a saw? do i
> > cut on mirrored side or the clear side? how do i keep the 
> > mirrored part
> > from peeling off? etc.
> > 
> > any help would be much appreciated!
> 
> there was an article by bert weiss in glass craftsman a few years 
> ago about
> cutting thick glass. 1/4" can be cut with regular tools. thicker is 
> easier
> to cut with different angled cutter wheels. there's also a tap 
> cutter which
> is good for thick glass. also it's lots harder to cut a small sliver 
> off the
> edge of thicker glass.
> 
> coat the back of the mirror and the edges with krylon clear spray, 
> which is
> cheaper than glass sealer sold in stained glass stores, and is 
> pretty much
> the same thing.
> 
> regards,
> charlie
> phx, az
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Fri Oct 26 15:11:45 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15xEj2-0000H1a@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Fri, 26 Oct 2001 14:41:12 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: home.com!byronw26
From: "Byron Wells" <byronw26@home.com>
To: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie.Spitzer@stratus.com>,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: NO Mail...
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 16:39:38 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@stratus.com>>
Precedence: bulk

ahhh... Well you CAN teach an old dog new tricks after all!! I never used
that button until just now... Works good.. Now if everyone will use it
things may get busy around here like they used to...
Byron...
Wells Glassworks

----- Original Message -----
From: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie.Spitzer@stratus.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Friday, October 26, 2001 11:28 AM
Subject: RE: NO Mail...


> almost every email program i've heard about has a reply-all and a reply
> button. if people used that there wouldn't be this 'problem'.
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Byron Wells [mailto:byronw26@home.com]
> > Sent: Friday, October 26, 2001 8:26 AM
> > To: glass@bungi.com
> > Subject: Re: NO Mail...
> >
> >
> > Perhaps if everyone promised to behave themselves and not
> > post a barrage of
> > non-glass posts Glenna would change it back. Mostly what started the
> > problems in the past were people chit-chatting about all
> > sorts of non glass
> > topics instead of emailing that sort of stuff person to
> > person. Then other
> > folks would get mad about the non glass stuff that was
> > filling their mailbox
> > and the fight would be on...
> >
> > I personally think the old way lead to much more activity and
> > sharing of
> > ideas but it's not my decision..
> >
> > Byron...
> > Wells Glassworks
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Fri Oct 26 15:24:05 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15xEr2-0000HVa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Fri, 26 Oct 2001 14:49:28 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: verizon.net!moya.oneal
From: "Moya O'Neal" <moya.oneal@verizon.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: RE:Promise to behave
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 17:13:52 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@verizon.net>
Precedence: bulk

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0047_01C15E41.960B6960
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Glenna, I promise too.
Moya

------=_NextPart_000_0047_01C15E41.960B6960
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4522.1800" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>Glenna, I promise too.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>Moya</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0047_01C15E41.960B6960--

----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Fri Oct 26 15:28:48 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15xErP-0000G7a@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Fri, 26 Oct 2001 14:49:51 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: erols.com!deethom
From: Dee T <deethom@erols.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: NO Mail...
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 13:55:37 -0400
Message-ID: <3.0.32.20011026135525.0079b810@pop.erols.com>
Precedence: bulk

I'll certainly agree to that.  This is really almost non existant now...sad
to say.
dee

>I personally think the old way lead to much more activity and sharing of
>ideas but it's not my decision..
>
>Byron...
>Wells Glassworks
>
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Fri Oct 26 15:42:01 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15xF7g-0000HZa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Fri, 26 Oct 2001 15:06:40 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: yahoo.com!beadnik
From: Joan <beadnik@yahoo.com>
To: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie.Spitzer@stratus.com>, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: RE: NO Mail...
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 15:03:27 -0700 (PDT)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@stratus.com>>
Precedence: bulk



Yes, but for some strange reason, not all my bungi
mail comes with the glass@bungi.com in the "To" line. 
I have filters set up to send all bungi mail to one
folder, but about one in ten winds up in my inbox
anyway.  

Joan

--- "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie.Spitzer@stratus.com>
wrote:
> almost every email program i've heard about has a
> reply-all and a reply
> button. if people used that there wouldn't be this
> 'problem'.
> 
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Byron Wells [mailto:byronw26@home.com]
> > Sent: Friday, October 26, 2001 8:26 AM
> > To: glass@bungi.com
> > Subject: Re: NO Mail...
> > 
> > 
> > Perhaps if everyone promised to behave themselves
> and not 
> > post a barrage of
> > non-glass posts Glenna would change it back.
> Mostly what started the
> > problems in the past were people chit-chatting
> about all 
> > sorts of non glass
> > topics instead of emailing that sort of stuff
> person to 
> > person. Then other
> > folks would get mad about the non glass stuff that
> was 
> > filling their mailbox
> > and the fight would be on...
> > 
> > I personally think the old way lead to much more
> activity and 
> > sharing of
> > ideas but it's not my decision..
> > 
> > Byron...
> > Wells Glassworks
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to:
> glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to:
> glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
  

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
http://personals.yahoo.com
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Fri Oct 26 15:45:19 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15xFC9-0000D5a@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Fri, 26 Oct 2001 15:11:17 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: stratus.com!Charlie.Spitzer
From: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie.Spitzer@stratus.com>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: RE: two questions
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 11:52:37 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@stratus.com>
Precedence: bulk

i probably don't have this copy at home anymore. i'm in the middle of moving
and tossed a 6' stack of magazines in the recycle bin recently.

the author is bert weiss. he posts sometimes on the http://warmglass.com
board. he probably still has an online copy somewhere he could send you.

a little investigating at http://alltheweb.com shows
http://www.glasscraftsman.com/roadtests/FM00_Toyo.htm which is the article
in question.

your s.g. retailer can probably order it if not carried.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Peggy L Kinnetz [mailto:pkinnetz@juno.com]
> Sent: Friday, October 26, 2001 10:10 AM
> To: glass@bungi.com
> Subject: Re: two questions
> 
> 
> Charlie, I think I tried to back order this one, but was told 
> that they
> did not have any more copies. (At least I think it was this 
> article-- I
> was ordering several different backcopies at the time, so I 
> may have it
> confused.). Would it be possible to copy the article, and 
> post it in the
> archives or to send a copy to me?  Or anyone else, any ideas 
> how to get
> hold of this article?
> 
> Also where would you get the special tools?  I can't seem to recall
> having seen anything in the catalogs.
> 
> Peggy K.
> 
> On Thu, 25 Oct 2001 06:27:25 -0700 "Spitzer, Charlie"
> <Charlie.Spitzer@stratus.com> writes:
> > 
> > 
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: boyd [mailto:boydz@mindspring.com]
> > > Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2001 12:49 PM
> > > To: Bungi Glass
> > > Subject: two questions
> > > 
> > > 
> > > hi everyone,
> > > 
> > <snip> 
> > > #2. cutting thick mirrors
> > > 
> > > i recently helped a friend clean out his attic and as a 
> > > reward, got two
> > > huge 1/4" thick mirrors (each about 24" x 48"). i'd like to cut 
> > them
> > > into several smaller pieces (approx. 6" x 12") to use in some 
> > mosaic
> > > mirror projects and i'm not sure how best to cut them. can i use a
> > > standard glass cutter? (i don't have a glass saw). do i need 
> > > a saw? do i
> > > cut on mirrored side or the clear side? how do i keep the 
> > > mirrored part
> > > from peeling off? etc.
> > > 
> > > any help would be much appreciated!
> > 
> > there was an article by bert weiss in glass craftsman a few years 
> > ago about
> > cutting thick glass. 1/4" can be cut with regular tools. thicker is 
> > easier
> > to cut with different angled cutter wheels. there's also a tap 
> > cutter which
> > is good for thick glass. also it's lots harder to cut a 
> small sliver 
> > off the
> > edge of thicker glass.
> > 
> > coat the back of the mirror and the edges with krylon clear spray, 
> > which is
> > cheaper than glass sealer sold in stained glass stores, and is 
> > pretty much
> > the same thing.
> > 
> > regards,
> > charlie
> > phx, az
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> 
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Fri Oct 26 15:54:12 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15xFLy-0000Hda@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Fri, 26 Oct 2001 15:21:26 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: yahoo.com!beadnik
From: Joan <beadnik@yahoo.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: NO Mail...
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 11:18:50 -0700 (PDT)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@lvcm.com>>
Precedence: bulk


I am a long time lurker... infrequent poster... to the
bungi list.  I too would prefer it if the responses
automatically went to the list.  I tended to enjoy
some of the joking around that used to accompany the
posts.... after all... that gave birth to Emeraldine
and Pierre!!! :-) Furthermore, we do all have delete
keys! 

Hopefully Glenna will see this thread and consider
re-configuring the list.

Joan

--- Ed Rogers <ejr929@lvcm.com> wrote:
> I totally agree with Byron Wells.  Keep the messages
> restricted to =
> Stained Glass.  When I suggested this a year or so
> ago, I was deluged =
> with criticism -- so I became a lurker and have not
> participated since.  =
> For "bungi" to work, everyone has to see all the
> questions and all the =
> answers.  Otherwise, it's effectiveness is a tiny
> fraction of its =
> potential.
> =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>  E-mail from: Ed Rogers=20
>  EJR929@LVCM.COM
> =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
> ----- Original Message -----=20
> From: "Byron Wells" <byronw26@home.com>
> To: <glass@bungi.com>
> Sent: Friday, October 26, 2001 8:25 AM
> Subject: Re: NO Mail...
> 
> 
> > Perhaps if everyone promised to behave themselves
> and not post a =
> barrage of
> > non-glass posts Glenna would change it back.
> Mostly what started the
> > problems in the past were people chit-chatting
> about all sorts of non =
> glass
> > topics instead of emailing that sort of stuff
> person to person. Then =
> other
> > folks would get mad about the non glass stuff that
> was filling their =
> mailbox
> > and the fight would be on...
> >=20
> > I personally think the old way lead to much more
> activity and sharing =
> of
> > ideas but it's not my decision..
> >=20
> > Byron...
> > Wells Glassworks
> >=20
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Peggy L Kinnetz" <pkinnetz@juno.com>
> > To: <glass@bungi.com>
> > Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2001 6:10 AM
> > Subject: Re: NO Mail...
> >=20
> >=20
> > > I also like the old way of just hitting a reply
> button and the =
> answer
> > > goes to the list.   I came on just at the change
> over, and missed =
> the
> > > flamewars fortunately, but am wondering now
> maybe there has been
> > > sufficient time to heal.  the list does seem to
> suffer as there is =
> no
> > > extended conversation, as it carried on
> privately, more by accident =
> as
> > > its easier to hit reply than to rewite the bungi
> address. Could we =
> try
> > > again?  Peggy K.
> > >
> > > On Tue, 23 Oct 2001 22:40:21 -0500 "Byron Wells"
> <byronw26@home.com>
> > > writes:
> > > > Yea I liked the old way better where all
> replies were sent to
> > > > bungi...
> > > > Seemed to keep more information going that
> way.. I of course
> > > > understand why
> > > > Glenna did it this way (because of past
> flamefests) but a lot of
> > > > conversation seems to get lost or just sent to
> one person and the
> > > > 'group'
> > > > suffers...
> > > >
> > > > Byron...
> > > > Wells Glassworks
> > > >
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: "Elaine" <wmagdycz@massed.net>
> > > > To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
> > > > Sent: Monday, October 22, 2001 9:59 PM
> > > > Subject: Re: NO Mail...
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > Can't get used to the email not
> automatically going to bungi. I
> > > > did it
> > > > right
> > > > > this time. Elaine
> > > > >
> > > > > The last email that I got from Bungi was
> 8/22. I just started
> > > > getting it
> > > > > again a few days ago after I emailed Glenna
> about it. Don't know
> > > > what
> > > > > happened. Elaine
> > > > >
> > > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > > From: "Larry ." <createglass@hotmail.com>
> > > > > To: <marybdaily@hotmail.com>
> > > > > Sent: Monday, October 22, 2001 3:35 PM
> > > > > Subject: Re: NO Mail...
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I got your mail, Mary.
> > > > > > I haven't seen any mail lately either, but
> I think that the =
> list
> > > > is
> > > > still
> > > > > > working.  That, or we're just the lucky
> ones that can still =
> get
> > > > it.
> > > > > *grin*
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Larry
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > >From: "Mary B" <marybdaily@hotmail.com>
> > > > > > >To: glass@bungi.com
> > > > > > >Subject: NO Mail...
> > > > > > >Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 10:18:17 -0400
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >Is there a problem with the bungi server.
> I've not received =
> ANY
> > > > mail
> > > > for
> > > > > > >almost a week? Usually have many messages
> each week. Please
> > > > advise.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >MaryBinVA
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > >
>
>_________________________________________________________________
> > > > > > >Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
> > > > > http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >----
> > > > > > >For subscription changes, please mail to:
> > > > glass-request@bungi.com
> > > > > > >To send to the list,      please mail to:
> glass@bungi.com
> > > > > > >Archives available at
> http://www.bungi.com/glass
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > >
>
_________________________________________________________________
> > > > > > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
> > > > http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
> > > > > >
> > > > > > ----
> > > > > > For subscription changes, please mail to:
> > > > glass-request@bungi.com
> > > > > > To send to the list,      please mail to:
> glass@bungi.com
> > > > > > Archives available at
> http://www.bungi.com/glass
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > ----
> > > > > For subscription changes, please mail to: =
> glass-request@bungi.com
> > > > > To send to the list,      please mail to:
> glass@bungi.com
> > > > > Archives available at
> http://www.bungi.com/glass
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > > ----
> > > > For subscription changes, please mail to:
> glass-request@bungi.com
> > > > To send to the list,      please mail to:
> glass@bungi.com
> > > > Archives available at
> http://www.bungi.com/glass
> 
=== message truncated ===
   

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
http://personals.yahoo.com
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Fri Oct 26 16:07:54 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15xFOt-0000FAa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Fri, 26 Oct 2001 15:24:27 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: fbol.com!Patty.McMaster
From: Patty.McMaster@fbol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: RE: NO Mail...
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 15:05:53 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@fbol.com>
Precedence: bulk


NOOOO!!!!!!!!!!

             Have a great day

           Patricia McMaster
Technical Support Center Analyst
              314.592.8487
              314.592.8497  fax
       patty.mcmaster@fbol.com
----- Forwarded by Patty McMaster/First Bank on 10/26/2001 03:05 PM -----

                    "Spitzer, Charlie"
                    <Charlie.Spitzer@st        To:     glass@bungi.com
                    ratus.com>                 cc:
                                               Subject:     RE: NO Mail...
                    10/26/2001 11:28 AM






almost every email program i've heard about has a reply-all and a reply
button. if people used that there wouldn't be this 'problem'.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Byron Wells [mailto:byronw26@home.com]
> Sent: Friday, October 26, 2001 8:26 AM
> To: glass@bungi.com
> Subject: Re: NO Mail...
>
>
> Perhaps if everyone promised to behave themselves and not
> post a barrage of
> non-glass posts Glenna would change it back. Mostly what started the
> problems in the past were people chit-chatting about all
> sorts of non glass
> topics instead of emailing that sort of stuff person to
> person. Then other
> folks would get mad about the non glass stuff that was
> filling their mailbox
> and the fight would be on...
>
> I personally think the old way lead to much more activity and
> sharing of
> ideas but it's not my decision..
>
> Byron...
> Wells Glassworks
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

***********************************************************************************************


NOTE: All e-mail sent to and from this address will be received or
otherwise
recorded by the First Banks corporate e-mail system and is subject to
archival,
monitoring or review by, and/or disclosure to, someone other than the
recipient.
***********************************************************************************************


----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Fri Oct 26 16:15:21 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15xFs2-0000FRa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Fri, 26 Oct 2001 15:54:34 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: home.com!cecnralph
From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
To: Ed Rogers <ejr929@lvcm.com>, Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Subject: Re: Swiss Sponge
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 17:37:41 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>
References: <<006701c15e4d$aaec7340$2541ea18@lvcablemodem.com>>
Organization: Grendel Studio
Precedence: bulk

Oops - thought I'd pasted the other address into this - instead I pasted it
back into itself  Duh!  Cec

Ed Rogers wrote:

> You can find it at http://www.saletek.com/mall/swiss_sponge.asp
> ==============
>  E-mail from: Ed Rogers
>  EJR929@LVCM.COM
> ==============
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Cecily & Ralph Wood" <cecnralph@home.com>
> To: "Bungi Glass" <glass@bungi.com>
> Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2001 10:56 PM
> Subject: Swiss Sponge
>
> > I want to get my hands on something called the Swiss Sponge.  It is a
> > relatively flat and tight sponge, good for cleaning the tip of your
> > iron, lasts a long time, AND it has holes (whence the name Swiss as in
> > holey cheese).  The holes are wonderful because the excess solder plops
> > down the holes instead of getting entangled in the sponge itself.  Pick
> > it up, dump the solder scraps, and wash the sponge.  I tried punching
> > holes in another soldering iron sponge and my hand was so sore I could
> > barely used it for a week, and my paper punch just didn't give big
> > enough holes.
> >
> > The place where I got mine always has it "on order" and it either "just
> > came in and is all gone" or is back ordered.  Does anybody know who
> > makes it and where I can get a supply?  Thanks - Cec
> >
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Fri Oct 26 16:24:21 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15xFsP-0000Hha@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Fri, 26 Oct 2001 15:54:57 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: home.com!byronw26
From: "Byron Wells" <byronw26@home.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: two questions
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 10:33:47 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@mindspring.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Hey Boyd...

Dunno what that mystery flux is but after trying a lot of fluxes over the
years I now use Glastar's liquid Glasflux, and I do 99.999 % leaded work...
No nasty mess like paste to clean up or anything... I use just water with a
little dish soap and baking soda and it wipes right off.

On the mirror I just cut the clear face with a reg. glass cutter and score
the back with a  razor knife... Sometimes I don't even bother cutting the
back and it still does fine...

Byron...
Wells Glassworks

----- Original Message -----
From: "boyd" <boydz@mindspring.com>
To: "Bungi Glass" <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2001 2:48 PM
Subject: two questions


> hi everyone,
>
> i have two -- probably quite simple -- questions for the group.
>
> #1. mystery flux
>
> a while back, i had the opportunity to use a flux that i *really* liked,
> but can't seem to find (unfortunately, the teacher had no idea of the
> name of the flux and it was stored in an old jam jar, so there was no
> label!). it was a yellowish, oily substance -- i've been told that it
> might have been oleic acid. it smoked a bit but not that excessively. i
> was using it for a lot of lead work (rather than copper foil). i've got
> a big leaded project coming up and i'd love to get some of this mystery
> flux! (i *really* don't much like the water-based and gel fluxes i've
> tried.) does anyone out there have any ideas what it might have been?
> who manufactures it? where i might get some? i've tried websearches but
> come up null. :-(
>
> #2. cutting thick mirrors
>
> i recently helped a friend clean out his attic and as a reward, got two
> huge 1/4" thick mirrors (each about 24" x 48"). i'd like to cut them
> into several smaller pieces (approx. 6" x 12") to use in some mosaic
> mirror projects and i'm not sure how best to cut them. can i use a
> standard glass cutter? (i don't have a glass saw). do i need a saw? do i
> cut on mirrored side or the clear side? how do i keep the mirrored part
> from peeling off? etc.
>
> any help would be much appreciated!
>
> --boyd
>
> --
>
> "History is the lie commonly agreed upon."
>
> -- Voltaire
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Fri Oct 26 16:45:34 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15xGVf-0000G7a@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Fri, 26 Oct 2001 16:35:31 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: home.com!cecnralph
From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
To: Ed Rogers <ejr929@lvcm.com>, Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Subject: Re: Swiss Sponge
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 17:36:32 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>
References: <<006c01c15e4d$eb307a00$2541ea18@lvcablemodem.com>>
Organization: Grendel Studio
Precedence: bulk

THANK YOU!!!  I'm about to check them out.  It really is the nicest stuff! -
Cec

Ed Rogers wrote:

> You can also buy it at: http://www.cathedralstainedglass.com/soldersup2.html
>

You can also buy it at: http://www.cathedralstainedglass.com/soldersup2.html

> ==============
>  E-mail from: Ed Rogers
>  EJR929@LVCM.COM
> ==============
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Cecily & Ralph Wood" <cecnralph@home.com>
> To: "Bungi Glass" <glass@bungi.com>
> Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2001 10:56 PM
> Subject: Swiss Sponge
>
> > I want to get my hands on something called the Swiss Sponge.  It is a
> > relatively flat and tight sponge, good for cleaning the tip of your
> > iron, lasts a long time, AND it has holes (whence the name Swiss as in
> > holey cheese).  The holes are wonderful because the excess solder plops
> > down the holes instead of getting entangled in the sponge itself.  Pick
> > it up, dump the solder scraps, and wash the sponge.  I tried punching
> > holes in another soldering iron sponge and my hand was so sore I could
> > barely used it for a week, and my paper punch just didn't give big
> > enough holes.
> >
> > The place where I got mine always has it "on order" and it either "just
> > came in and is all gone" or is back ordered.  Does anybody know who
> > makes it and where I can get a supply?  Thanks - Cec
> >
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Fri Oct 26 17:39:37 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15xHE0-0000Eya@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Fri, 26 Oct 2001 17:21:20 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: home.com!lorley
From: Lorley Oneyear <lorley@home.com>
To: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie.Spitzer@stratus.com>,glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: multipart/mixed; x-avg-checked=avg-ok-24F585E; boundary="=======16A7745C======="
Subject: RE: NO Mail...
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 15:45:11 -0700
Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20011026154410.009f9bd0@mail>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@stratus.com>>
Precedence: bulk

--=======16A7745C=======
Content-Type: multipart/alternative; x-avg-checked=avg-ok-24F585E; boundary="=====================_1100942==_.ALT"


--=====================_1100942==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/plain; x-avg-checked=avg-ok-24F585E; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

Wow.. "reply all" works.. Thanks for the info Charlie.. I learned something 
new today. Lorley/Phx




At 09:28 AM 10/26/2001 -0700, Spitzer, Charlie wrote:

>almost every email program i've heard about has a reply-all and a reply
>button. if people used that there wouldn't be this 'problem'.
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Byron Wells [mailto:byronw26@home.com]
> > Sent: Friday, October 26, 2001 8:26 AM
> > To: glass@bungi.com
> > Subject: Re: NO Mail...
> >
> >
> > Perhaps if everyone promised to behave themselves and not
> > post a barrage of
> > non-glass posts Glenna would change it back. Mostly what started the
> > problems in the past were people chit-chatting about all
> > sorts of non glass
> > topics instead of emailing that sort of stuff person to
> > person. Then other
> > folks would get mad about the non glass stuff that was
> > filling their mailbox
> > and the fight would be on...
> >
> > I personally think the old way lead to much more activity and
> > sharing of
> > ideas but it's not my decision..
> >
> > Byron...
> > Wells Glassworks
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
>
>---
>Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
>Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
>Version: 6.0.282 / Virus Database: 150 - Release Date: 09/25/2001



--=====================_1100942==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; x-avg-checked=avg-ok-24F585E; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

<html>
<font size=3>Wow.. &quot;reply all&quot; works.. Thanks for the info
Charlie.. I learned something new today. Lorley/Phx<br><br>
<br><br>
<br>
At 09:28 AM 10/26/2001 -0700, Spitzer, Charlie wrote:<br><br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>almost every email program i've
heard about has a reply-all and a reply<br>
button. if people used that there wouldn't be this 'problem'.<br><br>
&gt; -----Original Message-----<br>
&gt; From: Byron Wells
[<a href="mailto:byronw26@home.com" eudora="autourl">mailto:byronw26@home.com</a>]<br>
&gt; Sent: Friday, October 26, 2001 8:26 AM<br>
&gt; To: glass@bungi.com<br>
&gt; Subject: Re: NO Mail...<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; Perhaps if everyone promised to behave themselves and not <br>
&gt; post a barrage of<br>
&gt; non-glass posts Glenna would change it back. Mostly what started
the<br>
&gt; problems in the past were people chit-chatting about all <br>
&gt; sorts of non glass<br>
&gt; topics instead of emailing that sort of stuff person to <br>
&gt; person. Then other<br>
&gt; folks would get mad about the non glass stuff that was <br>
&gt; filling their mailbox<br>
&gt; and the fight would be on...<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; I personally think the old way lead to much more activity and <br>
&gt; sharing of<br>
&gt; ideas but it's not my decision..<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; Byron...<br>
&gt; Wells Glassworks<br>
----<br>
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com<br>
To send to the list,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; please mail to:
glass@bungi.com<br>
Archives available at
<a href="http://www.bungi.com/glass" eudora="autourl">http://www.bungi.com/glass</a><br><br>
<br>
---<br>
Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.<br>
Checked by AVG anti-virus system
(<a href="http://www.grisoft.com/" eudora="autourl">http://www.grisoft.com</a>).<br>
Version: 6.0.282 / Virus Database: 150 - Release Date:
09/25/2001</font></blockquote><br>
</html>


--=====================_1100942==_.ALT--

--=======16A7745C=======--

----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Fri Oct 26 18:19:40 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15xHaX-00005Ta@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Fri, 26 Oct 2001 17:44:37 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: massed.net!wmagdycz
From: "Elaine" <wmagdycz@massed.net>
To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: NO Mail...
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 20:14:17 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@massed.net>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Have it look for bungi in the message body too. Bungi is always somewhere at
the bottom of the email. That's what I do and it gets every one. Elaine

----- Original Message -----
From: "Joan" <beadnik@yahoo.com>
To: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie.Spitzer@stratus.com>; <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Friday, October 26, 2001 3:03 PM
Subject: RE: NO Mail...


>
>
> Yes, but for some strange reason, not all my bungi
> mail comes with the glass@bungi.com in the "To" line.
> I have filters set up to send all bungi mail to one
> folder, but about one in ten winds up in my inbox
> anyway.
>
> Joan
>
> --- "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie.Spitzer@stratus.com>
> wrote:
> > almost every email program i've heard about has a
> > reply-all and a reply
> > button. if people used that there wouldn't be this
> > 'problem'.
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: Byron Wells [mailto:byronw26@home.com]
> > > Sent: Friday, October 26, 2001 8:26 AM
> > > To: glass@bungi.com
> > > Subject: Re: NO Mail...
> > >
> > >
> > > Perhaps if everyone promised to behave themselves
> > and not
> > > post a barrage of
> > > non-glass posts Glenna would change it back.
> > Mostly what started the
> > > problems in the past were people chit-chatting
> > about all
> > > sorts of non glass
> > > topics instead of emailing that sort of stuff
> > person to
> > > person. Then other
> > > folks would get mad about the non glass stuff that
> > was
> > > filling their mailbox
> > > and the fight would be on...
> > >
> > > I personally think the old way lead to much more
> > activity and
> > > sharing of
> > > ideas but it's not my decision..
> > >
> > > Byron...
> > > Wells Glassworks
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to:
> > glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list,      please mail to:
> > glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
> http://personals.yahoo.com
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>


----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Fri Oct 26 18:47:13 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15xI2R-0000HLa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Fri, 26 Oct 2001 18:13:27 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: yahoo.com!beadnik
From: Joan <beadnik@yahoo.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: wires & fusing
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 11:05:05 -0700 (PDT)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@verrier>>
Precedence: bulk


I believe the clay the original poster is referring to
is Precious Metal Clay.  There are two
manufacturers... one is called PMC and the other is
called Silver Art Clay.  PMC comes in it's orignal
format, which does shrink up quite a bit... I believe
40% of it's orignal size.  PMC+ only shrinks about
10%, as does the Silver Art Clay.  The PMC also comes
in gold (not sure about the Art Clay).

It has been combined with fused glass successfully in
jewelry applications.  One person I know makes bezels
out of the PMC+, which she then fires in the kiln. 
Some folks pre-fire the clay first, then insert the
glass and re-fire to the temps (and ramping, etc.)
required by the glass.  The binder burns off
completely during firing, leaving fine silver (99.9%
pure silver). It requires polishing after firing,
either with a brass brush to give a matte finish, or
with more traditional polishing tools to give a more
high shine finish.  Once the clay is in it's fired,
metal, state, it can be treated similar to other
metals... i.e. you can drill it, solder onto it, etc.

Rio Grande (www.riogrande.com) carries the PMC line.

With regard to incorporating metal wire into fused
glass work, I use fine silver wire all the time, both
as a decorative element and to make loops to use to
attach to other components. Fine silver is not prone
to firescale as is Sterling.

Joan

--- Steve Richard
<s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk> wrote:
> Cec,
>         I don't know what silver and gold clay might
> be.  Can you
> enlighten me?
>         Generally, copper and brass wires
> incorporate well with fusing.
> It does depend on the diameter of the wire as to how
> they will sink into
> the glass.  smaller, thinner pieces sit on top of
> the glass, lift off
> and leave a mark. Thicker, almost rod-like pieces
> will sink into the
> glass and become fixed, but they are about 1/8 inch
> diameter.  
>         What about using an epoxy resin to fix the
> wire to the glass, or
> wrap the piece in a cage of wire?  I don't know!
> 
> Steve
> 
> 
> In message <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>, Cecily & Ralph
> Wood
> <cecnralph@home.com> writes
> >Have any of you done anything with the new silver
> and gold clays?
> >
> >Are there any kinds of wire that can be used as
> decorative elements laid
> >on top of glass that you then fuse?  I know there
> are some foils but
> >that's not quite the same effect I want.  But I do
> want the wire to sink
> >into the glass some - tho maybe not completely
> embedded.
> >
> >Cec
> >
> >----
> >For subscription changes, please mail to:
> glass-request@bungi.com
> >To send to the list,      please mail to:
> glass@bungi.com
> >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> 
> -- 
> Steve Richard
> Verrier Art Glass Ltd
> s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to:
> glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to:
> glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
   

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
http://personals.yahoo.com
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Fri Oct 26 20:22:31 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15xJdK-0000AMa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Fri, 26 Oct 2001 19:55:38 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: home.com!cecnralph
From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
To: Elaine <wmagdycz@massed.net>, Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Subject: Re: Swiss Sponge
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 21:49:53 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>
References: <<00e101c15e96$3e4fb140$1a2c96d1@wmagdycz>>
Organization: Grendel Studio
Precedence: bulk

No kidding?  What Supermarket, located where?

Elaine wrote:

> I checked the supermarket for what I imagined that sponge to look like. They
> were there - several of them - looked like the pic. It has holes evenly
> spaced on each side of the sponge. Elaine
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Cecily & Ralph Wood" <cecnralph@home.com>
> To: "Ed Rogers" <ejr929@lvcm.com>; "Bungi Glass" <glass@bungi.com>
> Sent: Friday, October 26, 2001 2:36 PM
> Subject: Re: Swiss Sponge
>
> > THANK YOU!!!  I'm about to check them out.  It really is the nicest
> stuff! -
> > Cec
> >
> > Ed Rogers wrote:
> >
> > > You can also buy it at:
> http://www.cathedralstainedglass.com/soldersup2.html
> > >
> >
> > You can also buy it at:
> http://www.cathedralstainedglass.com/soldersup2.html
> >
> > > ==============
> > >  E-mail from: Ed Rogers
> > >  EJR929@LVCM.COM
> > > ==============
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Cecily & Ralph Wood" <cecnralph@home.com>
> > > To: "Bungi Glass" <glass@bungi.com>
> > > Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2001 10:56 PM
> > > Subject: Swiss Sponge
> > >
> > > > I want to get my hands on something called the Swiss Sponge.  It is a
> > > > relatively flat and tight sponge, good for cleaning the tip of your
> > > > iron, lasts a long time, AND it has holes (whence the name Swiss as in
> > > > holey cheese).  The holes are wonderful because the excess solder
> plops
> > > > down the holes instead of getting entangled in the sponge itself.
> Pick
> > > > it up, dump the solder scraps, and wash the sponge.  I tried punching
> > > > holes in another soldering iron sponge and my hand was so sore I could
> > > > barely used it for a week, and my paper punch just didn't give big
> > > > enough holes.
> > > >
> > > > The place where I got mine always has it "on order" and it either
> "just
> > > > came in and is all gone" or is back ordered.  Does anybody know who
> > > > makes it and where I can get a supply?  Thanks - Cec
> > > >
> > > > ----
> > > > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > > > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > > > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> >
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> >

----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Fri Oct 26 20:24:08 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15xJfC-00001Pa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Fri, 26 Oct 2001 19:57:34 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: home.com!cecnralph
From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
To: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>,
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Subject: Re: wires & fusing
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 21:50:44 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>
References: <<K2U2gMAR1f27Ew2Z@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>>
Organization: Grendel Studio
Precedence: bulk

Do you have a favorite brand? = Cec

Steve Richard wrote:

> Well Cec,
>         It seems to me that you could use a ceramic lustre to achieve
> the same effect without the compatibility problems.  The lustre goes a
> long way, although it appears to be expensive.
>
> Steve
>
> In message <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>, Cecily & Ralph Wood
> <cecnralph@home.com> writes
> >The latest ssue of Glass Craftsman that just came had an article on the
> >silver and gold clay stuff, and I just wondered if people had had any
> >experience, because it looks interesting, although I wasn't enthused over
> >the example they made.  It is a mix of silver or gold and some clay-like
> >mixture that you can form by hand, just as you would use clay or Feemo or
> >whatever.  You can water it down, and or reuse scraps not fired.  So I guess
> >you could make slip and paint on the glass surface?  You then fire it in a
> >kiln (silver @ 1600 F and the gold at a higher temperature, just as you
> >would glass or pottery - after thoroughly drying it first, of course.  And I
> >don't understand if the clay like subatance evaporates, leaving the silver
> >or gold, or whether the silver/gold infuses the mixture so it appears
> >silver/gold, but at any rate you end up with something that appears to be
> >silver or gold, which apparently can be buffed for a shinier look.  If you
> >are incorporating glass in it prior to firing, you have to be careful
> >because the glass has a different COE than the silver/gold. - Cec
> >
> >Steve Richard wrote:
> >
> >> Cec,
> >>         I don't know what silver and gold clay might be.  Can you
> >> enlighten me?
> >>         Generally, copper and brass wires incorporate well with fusing.
> >> It does depend on the diameter of the wire as to how they will sink into
> >> the glass.  smaller, thinner pieces sit on top of the glass, lift off
> >> and leave a mark. Thicker, almost rod-like pieces will sink into the
> >> glass and become fixed, but they are about 1/8 inch diameter.
> >>         What about using an epoxy resin to fix the wire to the glass, or
> >> wrap the piece in a cage of wire?  I don't know!
> >>
> >> Steve
> >>
> >> In message <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>, Cecily & Ralph Wood
> >> <cecnralph@home.com> writes
> >> >Have any of you done anything with the new silver and gold clays?
> >> >
> >> >Are there any kinds of wire that can be used as decorative elements laid
> >> >on top of glass that you then fuse?  I know there are some foils but
> >> >that's not quite the same effect I want.  But I do want the wire to sink
> >> >into the glass some - tho maybe not completely embedded.
> >> >
> >> >Cec
> >> >
> >> >----
> >> >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> >> >To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> >> >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> >>
> >> --
> >> Steve Richard
> >> Verrier Art Glass Ltd
> >> s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
> >
> >----
> >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> >To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
> --
> Steve Richard
> Verrier Art Glass Ltd
> s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk

----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Fri Oct 26 20:32:59 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15xK4R-0000H4a@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Fri, 26 Oct 2001 20:23:39 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: home.com!byronw26
From: "Byron Wells" <byronw26@home.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: two questions
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 20:00:13 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@stratus.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Bert also posts on rec.crafts .glass..

----- Original Message -----
From: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie.Spitzer@stratus.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Friday, October 26, 2001 1:52 PM
Subject: RE: two questions


> i probably don't have this copy at home anymore. i'm in the middle of
moving
> and tossed a 6' stack of magazines in the recycle bin recently.
>
> the author is bert weiss. he posts sometimes on the http://warmglass.com
> board. he probably still has an online copy somewhere he could send you.
>
> a little investigating at http://alltheweb.com shows
> http://www.glasscraftsman.com/roadtests/FM00_Toyo.htm which is the article
> in question.
>
> your s.g. retailer can probably order it if not carried.
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Peggy L Kinnetz [mailto:pkinnetz@juno.com]
> > Sent: Friday, October 26, 2001 10:10 AM
> > To: glass@bungi.com
> > Subject: Re: two questions
> >
> >
> > Charlie, I think I tried to back order this one, but was told
> > that they
> > did not have any more copies. (At least I think it was this
> > article-- I
> > was ordering several different backcopies at the time, so I
> > may have it
> > confused.). Would it be possible to copy the article, and
> > post it in the
> > archives or to send a copy to me?  Or anyone else, any ideas
> > how to get
> > hold of this article?
> >
> > Also where would you get the special tools?  I can't seem to recall
> > having seen anything in the catalogs.
> >
> > Peggy K.
> >
> > On Thu, 25 Oct 2001 06:27:25 -0700 "Spitzer, Charlie"
> > <Charlie.Spitzer@stratus.com> writes:
> > >
> > >
> > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > From: boyd [mailto:boydz@mindspring.com]
> > > > Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2001 12:49 PM
> > > > To: Bungi Glass
> > > > Subject: two questions
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > hi everyone,
> > > >
> > > <snip>
> > > > #2. cutting thick mirrors
> > > >
> > > > i recently helped a friend clean out his attic and as a
> > > > reward, got two
> > > > huge 1/4" thick mirrors (each about 24" x 48"). i'd like to cut
> > > them
> > > > into several smaller pieces (approx. 6" x 12") to use in some
> > > mosaic
> > > > mirror projects and i'm not sure how best to cut them. can i use a
> > > > standard glass cutter? (i don't have a glass saw). do i need
> > > > a saw? do i
> > > > cut on mirrored side or the clear side? how do i keep the
> > > > mirrored part
> > > > from peeling off? etc.
> > > >
> > > > any help would be much appreciated!
> > >
> > > there was an article by bert weiss in glass craftsman a few years
> > > ago about
> > > cutting thick glass. 1/4" can be cut with regular tools. thicker is
> > > easier
> > > to cut with different angled cutter wheels. there's also a tap
> > > cutter which
> > > is good for thick glass. also it's lots harder to cut a
> > small sliver
> > > off the
> > > edge of thicker glass.
> > >
> > > coat the back of the mirror and the edges with krylon clear spray,
> > > which is
> > > cheaper than glass sealer sold in stained glass stores, and is
> > > pretty much
> > > the same thing.
> > >
> > > regards,
> > > charlie
> > > phx, az
> > > ----
> > > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> >
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Fri Oct 26 21:03:16 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15xKSo-0000HEa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Fri, 26 Oct 2001 20:48:50 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: massed.net!wmagdycz
From: "Elaine" <wmagdycz@massed.net>
To: <cecnralph@home.com>, "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: Swiss Sponge
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 23:52:11 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@massed.net>
References: <<3BDA118C.1BFA4EF5@home.com>>
Precedence: bulk

I saw it at the Big Y (getting my ammonia), but I think they're only in
western Mass. There are 3 other superstore supermarkets around here, but I
didn't check them. I don't know what the sponge is called, but it had rows
of oval shaped holes on each side of the sponge. The holes don't go through
the sponge to the other side. I know it's a new item. If you would like, I
can see what it's called, who makes it and the price. Elaine

----- Original Message -----
From: "Cecily & Ralph Wood" <cecnralph@home.com>
To: "Elaine" <wmagdycz@massed.net>; "Bungi Glass" <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Friday, October 26, 2001 6:49 PM
Subject: Re: Swiss Sponge


> No kidding?  What Supermarket, located where?
>
> Elaine wrote:
>
> > I checked the supermarket for what I imagined that sponge to look like.
They
> > were there - several of them - looked like the pic. It has holes evenly
> > spaced on each side of the sponge. Elaine
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Cecily & Ralph Wood" <cecnralph@home.com>
> > To: "Ed Rogers" <ejr929@lvcm.com>; "Bungi Glass" <glass@bungi.com>
> > Sent: Friday, October 26, 2001 2:36 PM
> > Subject: Re: Swiss Sponge
> >
> > > THANK YOU!!!  I'm about to check them out.  It really is the nicest
> > stuff! -



----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Fri Oct 26 22:04:15 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15xLOi-00001Ba@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Fri, 26 Oct 2001 21:48:40 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: yahoo.com!beadnik
From: Joan <beadnik@yahoo.com>
To: gunnx4@home.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: wires & fusing
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 21:38:07 -0700 (PDT)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>
References: <<3BDA2B29.97486F80@home.com>>
Precedence: bulk

I haven't used PMC in my kiln at home... I did take a
class in it some time ago and used it in their kiln. 
That was before PMC+ was developed, and the firing
time for the regular PMC is two hours, and it must be
kept at a very constant temperature for the entire
time.

I belong to a PMC e-list, and there was a great deal
of discussion on that list about 'contamination' of a
kiln by the PMC fumes. The problem seems to exist with
kilns that are lined with fiberfrax, as that seems to
hold in the fumes, and then release them on subsequent
firings.  Kilns lined with kiln brick don't seem to
have that problem.

Joan

--- Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@home.com> wrote:
> There's a short how to article in the Oct/Nov Glass
> Craftsman magazine.
> It must be using either the silver art clay or PMC
> plus, because all I'd
> ever seen before about it showed significant
> shrinkage.
> 
> Ive been hesitant to use PMC, as there had been some
> talk on a board I
> read about how it affects the kiln (fumes) and how
> those metal fumes may
> or may not affect glass later fired in the kiln. 
> Since I cant afford
> two kilns at this point in time, Im pretty careful
> about what I put in
> my kiln.
> 
> Joan, have you used the PMC in your glass kiln?
> 
> Suzanne
> 
> Joan wrote:
> > 
> > I believe the clay the original poster is
> referring to
> > is Precious Metal Clay.  There are two
> > manufacturers... one is called PMC and the other
> is
> > called Silver Art Clay.  PMC comes in it's orignal
> > format, which does shrink up quite a bit... I
> believe
> > 40% of it's orignal size.  PMC+ only shrinks about
> > 10%, as does the Silver Art Clay.  The PMC also
> comes
> > in gold (not sure about the Art Clay).
> > 
> > It has been combined with fused glass successfully
> in
> > jewelry applications.  One person I know makes
> bezels
> > out of the PMC+, which she then fires in the kiln.
> > Some folks pre-fire the clay first, then insert
> the
> > glass and re-fire to the temps (and ramping, etc.)
> > required by the glass.  The binder burns off
> > completely during firing, leaving fine silver
> (99.9%
> > pure silver). It requires polishing after firing,
> > either with a brass brush to give a matte finish,
> or
> > with more traditional polishing tools to give a
> more
> > high shine finish.  Once the clay is in it's
> fired,
> > metal, state, it can be treated similar to other
> > metals... i.e. you can drill it, solder onto it,
> etc.
> > 
> > Rio Grande (www.riogrande.com) carries the PMC
> line.
> > 
> > With regard to incorporating metal wire into fused
> > glass work, I use fine silver wire all the time,
> both
> > as a decorative element and to make loops to use
> to
> > attach to other components. Fine silver is not
> prone
> > to firescale as is Sterling.
> > 
> > Joan
  

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
http://personals.yahoo.com
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Fri Oct 26 22:31:48 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15xM0X-00001Pa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Fri, 26 Oct 2001 22:27:45 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: home.com!gunnx4
From: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@home.com>
To: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie.Spitzer@stratus.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: two questions
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 18:03:06 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@stratus.com>>
Organization: glassdancer
Precedence: bulk

I've missed most of this thread...but I did follow the link to the road
test Charlie posted.  That's the TC-21V, and the cutter I've used ever
since I had surgery on my hand Spring of 2000.  I can cut glass all day
without my hand getting fatigued any more.  It's a great cutter.

Suzanne

"Spitzer, Charlie" wrote:
> 
> i probably don't have this copy at home anymore. i'm in the middle of moving
> and tossed a 6' stack of magazines in the recycle bin recently.
> 
> the author is bert weiss. he posts sometimes on the http://warmglass.com
> board. he probably still has an online copy somewhere he could send you.
> 
> a little investigating at http://alltheweb.com shows
> http://www.glasscraftsman.com/roadtests/FM00_Toyo.htm which is the article
> in question.
> 
> your s.g. retailer can probably order it if not carried.
>
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Fri Oct 26 23:21:28 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15xMbz-0000Hsa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Fri, 26 Oct 2001 23:06:27 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: home.com!gunnx4
From: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@home.com>
To: Joan <beadnik@yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: wires & fusing
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 22:34:01 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>>
Organization: glassdancer
Precedence: bulk

There's a short how to article in the Oct/Nov Glass Craftsman magazine.
It must be using either the silver art clay or PMC plus, because all I'd
ever seen before about it showed significant shrinkage.

Ive been hesitant to use PMC, as there had been some talk on a board I
read about how it affects the kiln (fumes) and how those metal fumes may
or may not affect glass later fired in the kiln.  Since I cant afford
two kilns at this point in time, Im pretty careful about what I put in
my kiln.

Joan, have you used the PMC in your glass kiln?

Suzanne

Joan wrote:
> 
> I believe the clay the original poster is referring to
> is Precious Metal Clay.  There are two
> manufacturers... one is called PMC and the other is
> called Silver Art Clay.  PMC comes in it's orignal
> format, which does shrink up quite a bit... I believe
> 40% of it's orignal size.  PMC+ only shrinks about
> 10%, as does the Silver Art Clay.  The PMC also comes
> in gold (not sure about the Art Clay).
> 
> It has been combined with fused glass successfully in
> jewelry applications.  One person I know makes bezels
> out of the PMC+, which she then fires in the kiln.
> Some folks pre-fire the clay first, then insert the
> glass and re-fire to the temps (and ramping, etc.)
> required by the glass.  The binder burns off
> completely during firing, leaving fine silver (99.9%
> pure silver). It requires polishing after firing,
> either with a brass brush to give a matte finish, or
> with more traditional polishing tools to give a more
> high shine finish.  Once the clay is in it's fired,
> metal, state, it can be treated similar to other
> metals... i.e. you can drill it, solder onto it, etc.
> 
> Rio Grande (www.riogrande.com) carries the PMC line.
> 
> With regard to incorporating metal wire into fused
> glass work, I use fine silver wire all the time, both
> as a decorative element and to make loops to use to
> attach to other components. Fine silver is not prone
> to firescale as is Sterling.
> 
> Joan
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Sat Oct 27 05:04:14 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15xRof-00008La@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Sat, 27 Oct 2001 04:39:53 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: juno.com!pkinnetz
From: Peggy L Kinnetz <pkinnetz@juno.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: Re: NO Mail...
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 13:55:28 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@juno.com>
Precedence: bulk

Is the list just for stained glass, or are other forms of glassworking
acceptable topics as well?  Peggy K.

On Fri, 26 Oct 2001 09:36:57 -0700 "Ed Rogers" <ejr929@lvcm.com> writes:
> I totally agree with Byron Wells.  Keep the messages restricted to =
> Stained Glass.  When I suggested this a year or so ago, I was 
> deluged =
> with criticism -- so I became a lurker and have not participated 
> since.  =
> For "bungi" to work, everyone has to see all the questions and all 
> the =
> answers.  Otherwise, it's effectiveness is a tiny fraction of its =
> potential.
> =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>  E-mail from: Ed Rogers=20
>  EJR929@LVCM.COM
> =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
> ----- Original Message -----=20
> From: "Byron Wells" <byronw26@home.com>
> To: <glass@bungi.com>
> Sent: Friday, October 26, 2001 8:25 AM
> Subject: Re: NO Mail...
> 
> 
> > Perhaps if everyone promised to behave themselves and not post a =
> barrage of
> > non-glass posts Glenna would change it back. Mostly what started 
> the
> > problems in the past were people chit-chatting about all sorts of 
> non =
> glass
> > topics instead of emailing that sort of stuff person to person. 
> Then =
> other
> > folks would get mad about the non glass stuff that was filling 
> their =
> mailbox
> > and the fight would be on...
> >=20
> > I personally think the old way lead to much more activity and 
> sharing =
> of
> > ideas but it's not my decision..
> >=20
> > Byron...
> > Wells Glassworks
> >=20
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Peggy L Kinnetz" <pkinnetz@juno.com>
> > To: <glass@bungi.com>
> > Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2001 6:10 AM
> > Subject: Re: NO Mail...
> >=20
> >=20
> > > I also like the old way of just hitting a reply button and the =
> answer
> > > goes to the list.   I came on just at the change over, and 
> missed =
> the
> > > flamewars fortunately, but am wondering now maybe there has been
> > > sufficient time to heal.  the list does seem to suffer as there 
> is =
> no
> > > extended conversation, as it carried on privately, more by 
> accident =
> as
> > > its easier to hit reply than to rewite the bungi address. Could 
> we =
> try
> > > again?  Peggy K.
> > >
> > > On Tue, 23 Oct 2001 22:40:21 -0500 "Byron Wells" 
> <byronw26@home.com>
> > > writes:
> > > > Yea I liked the old way better where all replies were sent to
> > > > bungi...
> > > > Seemed to keep more information going that way.. I of course
> > > > understand why
> > > > Glenna did it this way (because of past flamefests) but a lot 
> of
> > > > conversation seems to get lost or just sent to one person and 
> the
> > > > 'group'
> > > > suffers...
> > > >
> > > > Byron...
> > > > Wells Glassworks
> > > >
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: "Elaine" <wmagdycz@massed.net>
> > > > To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
> > > > Sent: Monday, October 22, 2001 9:59 PM
> > > > Subject: Re: NO Mail...
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > Can't get used to the email not automatically going to 
> bungi. I
> > > > did it
> > > > right
> > > > > this time. Elaine
> > > > >
> > > > > The last email that I got from Bungi was 8/22. I just 
> started
> > > > getting it
> > > > > again a few days ago after I emailed Glenna about it. Don't 
> know
> > > > what
> > > > > happened. Elaine
> > > > >
> > > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > > From: "Larry ." <createglass@hotmail.com>
> > > > > To: <marybdaily@hotmail.com>
> > > > > Sent: Monday, October 22, 2001 3:35 PM
> > > > > Subject: Re: NO Mail...
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I got your mail, Mary.
> > > > > > I haven't seen any mail lately either, but I think that 
> the =
> list
> > > > is
> > > > still
> > > > > > working.  That, or we're just the lucky ones that can 
> still =
> get
> > > > it.
> > > > > *grin*
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Larry
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > >From: "Mary B" <marybdaily@hotmail.com>
> > > > > > >To: glass@bungi.com
> > > > > > >Subject: NO Mail...
> > > > > > >Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 10:18:17 -0400
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >Is there a problem with the bungi server. I've not 
> received =
> ANY
> > > > mail
> > > > for
> > > > > > >almost a week? Usually have many messages each week. 
> Please
> > > > advise.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >MaryBinVA
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > 
> >_________________________________________________________________
> > > > > > >Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
> > > > > http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >----
> > > > > > >For subscription changes, please mail to:
> > > > glass-request@bungi.com
> > > > > > >To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > > > > > >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > 
> _________________________________________________________________
> > > > > > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
> > > > http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
> > > > > >
> > > > > > ----
> > > > > > For subscription changes, please mail to:
> > > > glass-request@bungi.com
> > > > > > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > > > > > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > ----
> > > > > For subscription changes, please mail to: =
> glass-request@bungi.com
> > > > > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > > > > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > > ----
> > > > For subscription changes, please mail to: 
> glass-request@bungi.com
> > > > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > > > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> > > ----
> > > For subscription changes, please mail to: 
> glass-request@bungi.com
> > > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> >=20
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Sat Oct 27 06:42:11 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15xTBI-00009Ka@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Sat, 27 Oct 2001 06:07:20 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: home.com!gunnx4
From: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@home.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: PMC was Re: wires & fusing
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 22:39:53 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>>
Organization: glassdancer
Precedence: bulk

Oops...guess I really should read my email oldest to newest instead of
the other way around.

I now see earlier in this thread someone already mentioned the ariticle
in Glass Craftsman.

Ive seen some really cool stuff made with the PMC.  Bead and Button
magazine had an article a few months ago, and there was some gorgeous
jewlery made with it.

Here is their website.  http://www.art-clay.com/

Suzanne
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Sat Oct 27 06:55:48 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15xTXl-00006Pa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Sat, 27 Oct 2001 06:30:33 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: home.com!gunnx4
From: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@home.com>
To: Joan <beadnik@yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: wires & fusing
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 00:02:05 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>
References: <<20011027043807.52287.qmail@web10802.mail.yahoo.com>>
Organization: glassdancer
Precedence: bulk

After you use it in your kiln, let me know! ;o)  Okie dokie?
Someone from SGB was saying she thought she was getting some
contamination on her glass after having used PMC, other people acted
like she was crazy...but Im real hesitant to try it until I get more
info.  I just cant afford to have to designate my kiln to a PMC kiln and
need a new one for glass.  Lord only knows how many more years..etc...
 
Suzanne



Joan wrote:
> 
> I haven't used PMC in my kiln at home... I did take a
> class in it some time ago and used it in their kiln.
> That was before PMC+ was developed, and the firing
> time for the regular PMC is two hours, and it must be
> kept at a very constant temperature for the entire
> time.
> 
> I belong to a PMC e-list, and there was a great deal
> of discussion on that list about 'contamination' of a
> kiln by the PMC fumes. The problem seems to exist with
> kilns that are lined with fiberfrax, as that seems to
> hold in the fumes, and then release them on subsequent
> firings.  Kilns lined with kiln brick don't seem to
> have that problem.
> 
> Joan
> 
> --- Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@home.com> wrote:
> > There's a short how to article in the Oct/Nov Glass
> > Craftsman magazine.
> > It must be using either the silver art clay or PMC
> > plus, because all I'd
> > ever seen before about it showed significant
> > shrinkage.
> >
> > Ive been hesitant to use PMC, as there had been some
> > talk on a board I
> > read about how it affects the kiln (fumes) and how
> > those metal fumes may
> > or may not affect glass later fired in the kiln.
> > Since I cant afford
> > two kilns at this point in time, Im pretty careful
> > about what I put in
> > my kiln.
> >
> > Joan, have you used the PMC in your glass kiln?
> >
> > Suzanne
> >
> > Joan wrote:
> > >
> > > I believe the clay the original poster is
> > referring to
> > > is Precious Metal Clay.  There are two
> > > manufacturers... one is called PMC and the other
> > is
> > > called Silver Art Clay.  PMC comes in it's orignal
> > > format, which does shrink up quite a bit... I
> > believe
> > > 40% of it's orignal size.  PMC+ only shrinks about
> > > 10%, as does the Silver Art Clay.  The PMC also
> > comes
> > > in gold (not sure about the Art Clay).
> > >
> > > It has been combined with fused glass successfully
> > in
> > > jewelry applications.  One person I know makes
> > bezels
> > > out of the PMC+, which she then fires in the kiln.
> > > Some folks pre-fire the clay first, then insert
> > the
> > > glass and re-fire to the temps (and ramping, etc.)
> > > required by the glass.  The binder burns off
> > > completely during firing, leaving fine silver
> > (99.9%
> > > pure silver). It requires polishing after firing,
> > > either with a brass brush to give a matte finish,
> > or
> > > with more traditional polishing tools to give a
> > more
> > > high shine finish.  Once the clay is in it's
> > fired,
> > > metal, state, it can be treated similar to other
> > > metals... i.e. you can drill it, solder onto it,
> > etc.
> > >
> > > Rio Grande (www.riogrande.com) carries the PMC
> > line.
> > >
> > > With regard to incorporating metal wire into fused
> > > glass work, I use fine silver wire all the time,
> > both
> > > as a decorative element and to make loops to use
> > to
> > > attach to other components. Fine silver is not
> > prone
> > > to firescale as is Sterling.
> > >
> > > Joan
> 
> 
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
> http://personals.yahoo.com
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Sat Oct 27 07:14:26 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15xTxO-0000Hba@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Sat, 27 Oct 2001 06:57:02 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: home.com!cecnralph
From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Subject: Re: Swiss Sponge
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 10:01:00 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@massed.net>>
Organization: Grendel Studio
Precedence: bulk

No - that isn't the same thing.  This is a very dense, tough, flat sponge that

probably only is about 1/2 inch high at the most when wet, and the holes are
on the top and go all the way through, so the solder falls to the bottom of
the dish.  I'm going to order some from that Cathedral Stained Glass link Ed
Rogers sent.  Thanks for thinking about me though,. - Cec

Elaine wrote:

> I saw it at the Big Y (getting my ammonia), but I think they're only in
> western Mass. There are 3 other superstore supermarkets around here, but I
> didn't check them. I don't know what the sponge is called, but it had rows
> of oval shaped holes on each side of the sponge. The holes don't go through
> the sponge to the other side. I know it's a new item. If you would like, I
> can see what it's called, who makes it and the price. Elaine
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Cecily & Ralph Wood" <cecnralph@home.com>
> To: "Elaine" <wmagdycz@massed.net>; "Bungi Glass" <glass@bungi.com>
> Sent: Friday, October 26, 2001 6:49 PM
> Subject: Re: Swiss Sponge
>
> > No kidding?  What Supermarket, located where?
> >
> > Elaine wrote:
> >
> > > I checked the supermarket for what I imagined that sponge to look like.
> They
> > > were there - several of them - looked like the pic. It has holes evenly
> > > spaced on each side of the sponge. Elaine
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Cecily & Ralph Wood" <cecnralph@home.com>
> > > To: "Ed Rogers" <ejr929@lvcm.com>; "Bungi Glass" <glass@bungi.com>
> > > Sent: Friday, October 26, 2001 2:36 PM
> > > Subject: Re: Swiss Sponge
> > >
> > > > THANK YOU!!!  I'm about to check them out.  It really is the nicest
> > > stuff! -
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Sat Oct 27 09:49:14 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15xWaK-0000HEa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Sat, 27 Oct 2001 09:45:24 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: yahoo.com!beadnik
From: Joan <beadnik@yahoo.com>
To: cecnralph@home.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: wires & fusing
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 09:42:18 -0700 (PDT)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>
References: <<3BDABAFB.87C12F23@home.com>>
Precedence: bulk



If you get the metal clay, get either the PMC Plus or
the Art Clay Silver, which seem to be more compatible,
in terms of firing times and temps, than the original
PMC.

When using the fine silver wire, I always sandwich at
least part of it between two pieces of glass.  If you
are going for a decorative effect, cap it with clear.

Have fun!

Joan


--- Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com> wrote:
> Thanks!  I think maybe I'll get a little to play
> with - plus I'll get
> some Fine Silver.
> 
> Joan wrote:
> 
> > I believe the clay the original poster is
> referring to
> > is Precious Metal Clay.  There are two
> > manufacturers... one is called PMC and the other
> is
> > called Silver Art Clay.  PMC comes in it's orignal
> > format, which does shrink up quite a bit... I
> believe
> > 40% of it's orignal size.  PMC+ only shrinks about
> > 10%, as does the Silver Art Clay.  The PMC also
> comes
> > in gold (not sure about the Art Clay).
> >
> > It has been combined with fused glass successfully
> in
> > jewelry applications.  One person I know makes
> bezels
> > out of the PMC+, which she then fires in the kiln.
> > Some folks pre-fire the clay first, then insert
> the
> > glass and re-fire to the temps (and ramping, etc.)
> > required by the glass.  The binder burns off
> > completely during firing, leaving fine silver
> (99.9%
> > pure silver). It requires polishing after firing,
> > either with a brass brush to give a matte finish,
> or
> > with more traditional polishing tools to give a
> more
> > high shine finish.  Once the clay is in it's
> fired,
> > metal, state, it can be treated similar to other
> > metals... i.e. you can drill it, solder onto it,
> etc.
> >
> > Rio Grande (www.riogrande.com) carries the PMC
> line.
> >
> > With regard to incorporating metal wire into fused
> > glass work, I use fine silver wire all the time,
> both
> > as a decorative element and to make loops to use
> to
> > attach to other components. Fine silver is not
> prone
> > to firescale as is Sterling.
> >
> > Joan
> >
> > --- Steve Richard
> > <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk> wrote:
> > > Cec,
> > >         I don't know what silver and gold clay
> might
> > > be.  Can you
> > > enlighten me?
> > >         Generally, copper and brass wires
> > > incorporate well with fusing.
> > > It does depend on the diameter of the wire as to
> how
> > > they will sink into
> > > the glass.  smaller, thinner pieces sit on top
> of
> > > the glass, lift off
> > > and leave a mark. Thicker, almost rod-like
> pieces
> > > will sink into the
> > > glass and become fixed, but they are about 1/8
> inch
> > > diameter.
> > >         What about using an epoxy resin to fix
> the
> > > wire to the glass, or
> > > wrap the piece in a cage of wire?  I don't know!
> > >
> > > Steve
> > >
> > >
> > > In message <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>, Cecily &
> Ralph
> > > Wood
> > > <cecnralph@home.com> writes
> > > >Have any of you done anything with the new
> silver
> > > and gold clays?
> > > >
> > > >Are there any kinds of wire that can be used as
> > > decorative elements laid
> > > >on top of glass that you then fuse?  I know
> there
> > > are some foils but
> > > >that's not quite the same effect I want.  But I
> do
> > > want the wire to sink
> > > >into the glass some - tho maybe not completely
> > > embedded.
> > > >
> > > >Cec
> > > >
> > > >----
> > > >For subscription changes, please mail to:
> > > glass-request@bungi.com
> > > >To send to the list,      please mail to:
> > > glass@bungi.com
> > > >Archives available at
> http://www.bungi.com/glass
> > >
> > > --
> > > Steve Richard
> > > Verrier Art Glass Ltd
> > > s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
> > > ----
> > > For subscription changes, please mail to:
> > > glass-request@bungi.com
> > > To send to the list,      please mail to:
> > > glass@bungi.com
> > > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> >
> >
> > __________________________________________________
> > Do You Yahoo!?
> > Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
> > http://personals.yahoo.com
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to:
> glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list,      please mail to:
> glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> 
   

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
http://personals.yahoo.com
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Sat Oct 27 10:02:25 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15xWW3-00008ra@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Sat, 27 Oct 2001 09:40:59 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: home.com!cecnralph
From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
To: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@home.com>, Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Subject: Re: wires & fusing
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 10:03:36 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>>
Organization: Grendel Studio
Precedence: bulk

The article mentioned that fume problem but the author indicated the
her/his? kiln didn't seem to have any problem.  My kiln is firebrick so I
guess I'm OK.

Suzanne Gunn wrote:

> There's a short how to article in the Oct/Nov Glass Craftsman magazine.
> It must be using either the silver art clay or PMC plus, because all I'd
> ever seen before about it showed significant shrinkage.
>
> Ive been hesitant to use PMC, as there had been some talk on a board I
> read about how it affects the kiln (fumes) and how those metal fumes may
> or may not affect glass later fired in the kiln.  Since I cant afford
> two kilns at this point in time, Im pretty careful about what I put in
> my kiln.
>
> Joan, have you used the PMC in your glass kiln?
>
> Suzanne
>
> Joan wrote:
> >
> > I believe the clay the original poster is referring to
> > is Precious Metal Clay.  There are two
> > manufacturers... one is called PMC and the other is
> > called Silver Art Clay.  PMC comes in it's orignal
> > format, which does shrink up quite a bit... I believe
> > 40% of it's orignal size.  PMC+ only shrinks about
> > 10%, as does the Silver Art Clay.  The PMC also comes
> > in gold (not sure about the Art Clay).
> >
> > It has been combined with fused glass successfully in
> > jewelry applications.  One person I know makes bezels
> > out of the PMC+, which she then fires in the kiln.
> > Some folks pre-fire the clay first, then insert the
> > glass and re-fire to the temps (and ramping, etc.)
> > required by the glass.  The binder burns off
> > completely during firing, leaving fine silver (99.9%
> > pure silver). It requires polishing after firing,
> > either with a brass brush to give a matte finish, or
> > with more traditional polishing tools to give a more
> > high shine finish.  Once the clay is in it's fired,
> > metal, state, it can be treated similar to other
> > metals... i.e. you can drill it, solder onto it, etc.
> >
> > Rio Grande (www.riogrande.com) carries the PMC line.
> >
> > With regard to incorporating metal wire into fused
> > glass work, I use fine silver wire all the time, both
> > as a decorative element and to make loops to use to
> > attach to other components. Fine silver is not prone
> > to firescale as is Sterling.
> >
> > Joan
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Sat Oct 27 15:05:08 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15xb7q-0000Gwa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Sat, 27 Oct 2001 14:36:18 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: doorpi.net!mmam5
From: "Marci" <mmam5@doorpi.net>
To: "Cecily & Ralph Wood" <cecnralph@home.com>, "Ed Rogers" <ejr929@lvcm.com>,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Swiss Sponge
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 16:00:28 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@doorpi.net>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Yes  - A big thank you -  I just love on-line shopping!

Marci

----- Original Message -----
From: "Cecily & Ralph Wood" <cecnralph@home.com>
To: "Ed Rogers" <ejr929@lvcm.com>; "Bungi Glass" <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Friday, October 26, 2001 4:36 PM
Subject: Re: Swiss Sponge


> THANK YOU!!!  I'm about to check them out.  It really is the nicest
stuff! -
> Cec
>
> Ed Rogers wrote:
>
> > You can also buy it at:
http://www.cathedralstainedglass.com/soldersup2.html
> >
>
> You can also buy it at:
http://www.cathedralstainedglass.com/soldersup2.html
>
> > ==============
> >  E-mail from: Ed Rogers
> >  EJR929@LVCM.COM
> > ==============
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Cecily & Ralph Wood" <cecnralph@home.com>
> > To: "Bungi Glass" <glass@bungi.com>
> > Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2001 10:56 PM
> > Subject: Swiss Sponge
> >
> > > I want to get my hands on something called the Swiss Sponge.  It is a
> > > relatively flat and tight sponge, good for cleaning the tip of your
> > > iron, lasts a long time, AND it has holes (whence the name Swiss as in
> > > holey cheese).  The holes are wonderful because the excess solder
plops
> > > down the holes instead of getting entangled in the sponge itself.
Pick
> > > it up, dump the solder scraps, and wash the sponge.  I tried punching
> > > holes in another soldering iron sponge and my hand was so sore I could
> > > barely used it for a week, and my paper punch just didn't give big
> > > enough holes.
> > >
> > > The place where I got mine always has it "on order" and it either
"just
> > > came in and is all gone" or is back ordered.  Does anybody know who
> > > makes it and where I can get a supply?  Thanks - Cec
> > >
> > > ----
> > > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>

----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Sat Oct 27 16:07:48 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15xcDZ-0000Hga@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Sat, 27 Oct 2001 15:46:17 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: doorpi.net!mmam5
From: "Marci" <mmam5@doorpi.net>
To: "Moya O'Neal" <moya.oneal@verizon.net>,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Stained Glass Supply Resource
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 15:18:56 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@doorpi.net>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@verizon.net>>
Precedence: bulk

Hi Lynda - - I too live 30 - 60 miles from the nearest stained glass shop.
A couple of sites I like to shop from are:

http://www.stainedglasswarehouse.com/
http://www.glassmart.com/

The solder from stainedglasswarehouse is great quality and cheaper in price
(with shipping) than any of the local glass shops I've found.

http://www.thestorefinder.com/glass/glass_sr.html?content=storefinder.html
The store finder will show you all the stores, shops and studios for each
state!

Good Luck!

Marci

----- Original Message -----
From: "Moya O'Neal" <moya.oneal@verizon.net>
To: "Lynda Myers" <lmyers@ci.redding.ca.us>; <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2001 8:14 PM
Subject: Re: Stained Glass Supply Resource


> Hi Lynda,
> I don't think you can beat "Anything in Stained Glass" for service,
> selection or price in either retail or wholesale pricing.  You can buy
> directly from many sources on the net.  Spectrum Glass, Armstrong Glass,
> just do a search of "stained glass suppliers" and you will find oodles.
> Good luck.
> Moya
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Lynda Myers" <lmyers@ci.redding.ca.us>
> To: <glass@bungi.com>
> Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2001 11:38 AM
> Subject: Stained Glass Supply Resource
>
>
> > This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
> >
> > ------=_NextPart_000_0009_01C15D30.6DA926E0
> > Content-Type: text/plain;
> > charset="iso-8859-1"
> > Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
> >
> > I am new to the art of stained glass and absolutely loving it!!  =
> > However, I live in a relatively small town and the only place I know to
=
> > buy supplies is from the instructor who taught me.  While he is awesome
=
> > and I don't think he's overcharging me, he doesn't always have the =
> > colors, textures etc. of the glass and/or supplies that I want.  I live
=
> > in northern Northern California, about 2 1/2 hrs north of sacramento.  =
> > Can anyone suggest a good retailer: online, mail order or direct?  Also,
=
> > if I get my business license does anyone know where I can buy wholesale?
> >
> > Any help would be much appreciated!!
> >
> > ------=_NextPart_000_0009_01C15D30.6DA926E0
> > Content-Type: text/html;
> > charset="iso-8859-1"
> > Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
> >
> > <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
> > <HTML><HEAD>
> > <META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
> > http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
> > <META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2314.1000" name=3DGENERATOR>
> > <STYLE></STYLE>
> > </HEAD>
> > <BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
> > <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I am new to the art of stained glass =
> > and absolutely=20
> > loving it!!&nbsp; However, I live in a relatively small town and the =
> > only place=20
> > I know to buy supplies is from the instructor who taught me.&nbsp; While
=
> > he is=20
> > awesome and I don't think he's overcharging me, he doesn't always have =
> > the=20
> > colors, textures etc. of the glass and/or supplies that I want.&nbsp; I
=
> > live in=20
> > northern Northern California, about 2 1/2 hrs north of sacramento.&nbsp;
=
> > Can=20
> > anyone suggest a good retailer: online, mail order or direct?&nbsp; =
> > Also, if I=20
> > get my business license does anyone know where I can buy =
> > wholesale?</FONT></DIV>
> > <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
> > <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Any help would be much=20
> > appreciated!!</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
> >
> > ------=_NextPart_000_0009_01C15D30.6DA926E0--
> >
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> >
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>

----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Sun Oct 28 09:54:10 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15xtfz-0000GDa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Sun, 28 Oct 2001 09:24:47 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: yahoo.com!beadnik
From: Joan <beadnik@yahoo.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Stained Glass Supply Resource
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 09:15:26 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@doorpi.net>>
Precedence: bulk

Marci....

Thanks for that 'Storefinder' link!

Joan

--- Marci <mmam5@doorpi.net> wrote:
> Hi Lynda - - I too live 30 - 60 miles from the
> nearest stained glass shop.
> A couple of sites I like to shop from are:
> 
> http://www.stainedglasswarehouse.com/
> http://www.glassmart.com/
> 
> The solder from stainedglasswarehouse is great
> quality and cheaper in price
> (with shipping) than any of the local glass shops
> I've found.
> 
>
http://www.thestorefinder.com/glass/glass_sr.html?content=storefinder.html
> The store finder will show you all the stores, shops
> and studios for each
> state!
> 
> Good Luck!
> 
> Marci
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Moya O'Neal" <moya.oneal@verizon.net>
> To: "Lynda Myers" <lmyers@ci.redding.ca.us>;
> <glass@bungi.com>
> Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2001 8:14 PM
> Subject: Re: Stained Glass Supply Resource
> 
> 
> > Hi Lynda,
> > I don't think you can beat "Anything in Stained
> Glass" for service,
> > selection or price in either retail or wholesale
> pricing.  You can buy
> > directly from many sources on the net.  Spectrum
> Glass, Armstrong Glass,
> > just do a search of "stained glass suppliers" and
> you will find oodles.
> > Good luck.
> > Moya
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Lynda Myers" <lmyers@ci.redding.ca.us>
> > To: <glass@bungi.com>
> > Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2001 11:38 AM
> > Subject: Stained Glass Supply Resource
> >
> >
> > > This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
> > >
> > > ------=_NextPart_000_0009_01C15D30.6DA926E0
> > > Content-Type: text/plain;
> > > charset="iso-8859-1"
> > > Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
> > >
> > > I am new to the art of stained glass and
> absolutely loving it!!  =
> > > However, I live in a relatively small town and
> the only place I know to
> =
> > > buy supplies is from the instructor who taught
> me.  While he is awesome
> =
> > > and I don't think he's overcharging me, he
> doesn't always have the =
> > > colors, textures etc. of the glass and/or
> supplies that I want.  I live
> =
> > > in northern Northern California, about 2 1/2 hrs
> north of sacramento.  =
> > > Can anyone suggest a good retailer: online, mail
> order or direct?  Also,
> =
> > > if I get my business license does anyone know
> where I can buy wholesale?
> > >
> > > Any help would be much appreciated!!
> > >
> > > ------=_NextPart_000_0009_01C15D30.6DA926E0
> > > Content-Type: text/html;
> > > charset="iso-8859-1"
> > > Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
> > >
> > > <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0
> Transitional//EN">
> > > <HTML><HEAD>
> > > <META content=3D"text/html;
> charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
> > > http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
> > > <META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2314.1000"
> name=3DGENERATOR>
> > > <STYLE></STYLE>
> > > </HEAD>
> > > <BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
> > > <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I am new to the
> art of stained glass =
> > > and absolutely=20
> > > loving it!!&nbsp; However, I live in a
> relatively small town and the =
> > > only place=20
> > > I know to buy supplies is from the instructor
> who taught me.&nbsp; While
> =
> > > he is=20
> > > awesome and I don't think he's overcharging me,
> he doesn't always have =
> > > the=20
> > > colors, textures etc. of the glass and/or
> supplies that I want.&nbsp; I
> =
> > > live in=20
> > > northern Northern California, about 2 1/2 hrs
> north of sacramento.&nbsp;
> =
> > > Can=20
> > > anyone suggest a good retailer: online, mail
> order or direct?&nbsp; =
> > > Also, if I=20
> > > get my business license does anyone know where I
> can buy =
> > > wholesale?</FONT></DIV>
> > > <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
> > > <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Any help would
> be much=20
> > > appreciated!!</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
> > >
> > > ------=_NextPart_000_0009_01C15D30.6DA926E0--
> > >
> > > ----
> > > For subscription changes, please mail to:
> glass-request@bungi.com
> > > To send to the list,      please mail to:
> glass@bungi.com
> > > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> > >
> >
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to:
> glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list,      please mail to:
> glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> >
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to:
> glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to:
> glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
 

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
http://personals.yahoo.com
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Sun Oct 28 18:55:14 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15y2CF-0000Eda@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Sun, 28 Oct 2001 18:30:39 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: cecnralph@home.com
Subject: Re: wires & fusing
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 23:50:45 +0100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@verrier>
References: <<3BDA11BF.939B66AF@home.com>>
Precedence: bulk

In message <3BDA11BF.939B66AF@home.com>, Cecily & Ralph Wood
<cecnralph@home.com> writes
>Do you have a favorite brand? = Cec
>
No, almost all of them work in the same way.  As usual, the more
expensive give better, more consistent results.  But start with the
cheaper ones for experimentation.

Steve
>Steve Richard wrote:
>
>> Well Cec,
>>         It seems to me that you could use a ceramic lustre to achieve
>> the same effect without the compatibility problems.  The lustre goes a
>> long way, although it appears to be expensive.
>>
>> Steve
>>
>> In message <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>, Cecily & Ralph Wood
>> <cecnralph@home.com> writes
>> >The latest ssue of Glass Craftsman that just came had an article on the
>> >silver and gold clay stuff, and I just wondered if people had had any
>> >experience, because it looks interesting, although I wasn't enthused over
>> >the example they made.  It is a mix of silver or gold and some clay-like
>> >mixture that you can form by hand, just as you would use clay or Feemo or
>> >whatever.  You can water it down, and or reuse scraps not fired.  So I guess
>> >you could make slip and paint on the glass surface?  You then fire it in a
>> >kiln (silver @ 1600 F and the gold at a higher temperature, just as you
>> >would glass or pottery - after thoroughly drying it first, of course.  And I
>> >don't understand if the clay like subatance evaporates, leaving the silver
>> >or gold, or whether the silver/gold infuses the mixture so it appears
>> >silver/gold, but at any rate you end up with something that appears to be
>> >silver or gold, which apparently can be buffed for a shinier look.  If you
>> >are incorporating glass in it prior to firing, you have to be careful
>> >because the glass has a different COE than the silver/gold. - Cec
>> >
>> >Steve Richard wrote:
>> >
>> >> Cec,
>> >>         I don't know what silver and gold clay might be.  Can you
>> >> enlighten me?
>> >>         Generally, copper and brass wires incorporate well with fusing.
>> >> It does depend on the diameter of the wire as to how they will sink into
>> >> the glass.  smaller, thinner pieces sit on top of the glass, lift off
>> >> and leave a mark. Thicker, almost rod-like pieces will sink into the
>> >> glass and become fixed, but they are about 1/8 inch diameter.
>> >>         What about using an epoxy resin to fix the wire to the glass, or
>> >> wrap the piece in a cage of wire?  I don't know!
>> >>
>> >> Steve
>> >>
>> >> In message <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>, Cecily & Ralph Wood
>> >> <cecnralph@home.com> writes
>> >> >Have any of you done anything with the new silver and gold clays?
>> >> >
>> >> >Are there any kinds of wire that can be used as decorative elements laid
>> >> >on top of glass that you then fuse?  I know there are some foils but
>> >> >that's not quite the same effect I want.  But I do want the wire to sink
>> >> >into the glass some - tho maybe not completely embedded.
>> >> >
>> >> >Cec
>> >> >
>> >> >----
>> >> >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>> >> >To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>> >> >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>> >>
>> >> --
>> >> Steve Richard
>> >> Verrier Art Glass Ltd
>> >> s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
>> >
>> >----
>> >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>> >To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>> >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>>
>> --
>> Steve Richard
>> Verrier Art Glass Ltd
>> s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
>

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Mon Oct 29 04:03:18 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15yAq7-0000DOa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Mon, 29 Oct 2001 03:44:23 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: home.com!cecnralph
From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Subject: glass stress
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2001 00:31:06 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>
Organization: Grendel Studio
Precedence: bulk

Is there a cheaper way to check  fusing stresses than to pay @ $60 for a
stress meter?  Seems like Brad Walker recommended just getting flat
polarizing filters, but where do you find such things? - Cec

----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Mon Oct 29 07:37:53 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15yDx4-0000Fna@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Mon, 29 Oct 2001 07:03:46 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: stratus.com!Charlie.Spitzer
From: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie.Spitzer@stratus.com>
To: "'Cecily & Ralph Wood'" <cecnralph@home.com>,
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: RE: glass stress
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2001 07:23:46 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@stratus.com>
Precedence: bulk

american science and surplus.

http://sciplus.com/category.cfm?subsection=21&category=191

regards,
charlie
phx, az

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Cecily & Ralph Wood [mailto:cecnralph@home.com]
> Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2001 10:31 PM
> To: Bungi Glass
> Subject: glass stress
> 
> 
> Is there a cheaper way to check  fusing stresses than to pay 
> @ $60 for a
> stress meter?  Seems like Brad Walker recommended just getting flat
> polarizing filters, but where do you find such things? - Cec
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> 
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Mon Oct 29 08:39:37 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15yEyr-0000Iha@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Mon, 29 Oct 2001 08:09:41 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: fbol.com!Patty.McMaster
From: Patty.McMaster@fbol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: RE: glass stress
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2001 10:07:42 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@fbol.com>
Precedence: bulk





Where might I order some blue flash glass?


----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Mon Oct 29 08:53:45 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15yF1U-0000CSa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Mon, 29 Oct 2001 08:12:24 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: exchange.DAYTONOH.NCR.com!DF125031
From: "Becker, Donna" <DF125031@exchange.DAYTONOH.NCR.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: Looking for Christmas Ornament Patterns
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 14:41:28 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@exchange.DAYTONOH.NCR.com>
Precedence: bulk

Hello Again!

My son is going on a mission trip to Mexico with our church youth group.
Each of the kids are expected to raise $300 for there part of the expense to
get there, etc.  Our local grade school is having a "craft fair" in about a
month, so I asked him if he'd like to make stained glass ornaments for the
event and sell them to help raise the money.  I will of course be doing a
lot of the work, but since I am a hobbyist, we have a lot to make in a short
time.  Looking through my file cabinets of patterns, I realized I just don't
have much of that type of pattern.  Here's what I'm looking for:  Christmas,
5 to 10 pieces, somewhat elegant, and when shrunk to ornament size, the
pieces are not too small to work with (he's a freshman boy, he's not too
good with tiny pieces yet, and I want him to really put the effort in).
I've been to Warner-Criv and a couple other sites, and will continue
looking, but I was wondering if anyone else had any they could share or knew
of a good source.

Thank You all so much for everything.  I've learned so much from this group.


Donna Becker
Senior Consultant II
Office  630-469-5726
Cell 630-248-0184
donna.becker@chicagoil.ncr.com

		
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Mon Oct 29 09:21:54 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15yFUL-00009va@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Mon, 29 Oct 2001 08:42:13 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: GSA-ORSP.CROWN.NWU.EDU!kaye
From: "Kaye Sodt" <kaye@GSA-ORSP.CROWN.NWU.EDU>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Foiler
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2001 10:17:41 CST 6CDT
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@GSA>
Organization: GSA-ORSP
Precedence: bulk

From:           	Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>


Just returned from vacation and am catching up.  I disagree, Cec, 
about those "little hand jobbies."  I have two sizes mounted on a 
board and I attach my foil holder/dispenser at the other end of the 
board with (of course) a bungi cord thru the centers of the foil 
spools.  I've never noticed a problem with centering--in fact, I've 
found it really helpful when using the narrower foil where there's 
less leeway.

Kaye 

Plus those little hand jobbies aren't worth buying.  For one thing, one
of the most common widths is actually off center - and in that size they
are all like that, cause I checked a bunch of them. - Cec

----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Mon Oct 29 10:53:55 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15yGy8-0000Cna@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Mon, 29 Oct 2001 10:17:04 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: aol.com!CncptThnkr
From: CncptThnkr@aol.com
To: DF125031@exchange.DAYTONOH.NCR.com, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: Looking for Christmas Ornament Patterns
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2001 13:12:58 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>
Precedence: bulk

Donna,

Since you are planning on a school craft show would you do any better with 
small inexpensive ornaments?   I saw iridescent cracked ice cut into 5 or 6 
inch long tapered pieces, corners were rounded off, copper foiled around the 
outside and a hanging ring on top, they were being sold 1.00 each or 6 for 
5.00.   

Have you checked the Internet for free patterns?   There are quite a number 
of sites with free glass patterns.

Good Luck.

Pat
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Mon Oct 29 11:33:45 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15yHhO-0002mza@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Mon, 29 Oct 2001 11:03:50 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: aol.com!CINDEL67
From: CINDEL67@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_4d.13767c48.290f0158_boundary"
Subject: Foil troubles
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2001 14:00:40 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>
Precedence: bulk


--part1_4d.13767c48.290f0158_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Hi everyone! 
I'm working on some small ornaments right now and I'm having trouble with my 
foil coming up. 

WHAT AM I DOING WRONG??????

I burnish and burnish and burnish and my foil still seems comes up when I'm 
soldering. Could it be my flux? 
I'd love to hear some advice on the stuff. 
I currently have 3 different kinds of flux. I have Glass Pro Solder Flux 
(liquid), Ruby Fluid Soldering paste, and No Korode Regular paste flux. I 
wasn't sure if I should be using liquid or paste. 
My soldering iron is a Weller 100 with a built in rheostat. I have 4 
tips......#7- 3/8" (that I usually use), #7- 1/8", #7- beading, and #6- 1/4". 
Am I using the wrong tip?

Any help would be so welcomed. 
Thank you for listening to my problem.
Cinda

--part1_4d.13767c48.290f0158_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<FONT  COLOR="#8000ff" SIZE=4 FAMILY="SERIF" FACE="Garamond" LANG="0">Hi everyone! <BR>
I'm working on some small ornaments right now and I'm having trouble with my foil coming up. <BR>
<BR>
WHAT AM I DOING WRONG??????<BR>
<BR>
I burnish and burnish and burnish and my foil still seems comes up when I'm soldering. Could it be my flux? <BR>
I'd love to hear some advice on the stuff. <BR>
I currently have 3 different kinds of flux. I have Glass Pro Solder Flux (liquid), Ruby Fluid Soldering paste, and No Korode Regular paste flux. I wasn't sure if I should be using liquid or paste. <BR>
My soldering iron is a Weller 100 with a built in rheostat. I have 4 tips......#7- 3/8" (that I usually use), #7- 1/8", #7- beading, and #6- 1/4". Am I using the wrong tip?<BR>
<BR>
Any help would be so welcomed. <BR>
Thank you for listening to my problem.<BR>
Cinda</FONT></HTML>

--part1_4d.13767c48.290f0158_boundary--
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Mon Oct 29 12:07:02 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15yIM0-0000Eia@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Mon, 29 Oct 2001 11:45:48 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: Corpit.com!dterrill
From: Dan Terrill <dterrill@Corpit.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: RE: Foil troubles
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2001 14:17:00 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@Corpit.com>
Precedence: bulk

This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand
this format, some or all of this message may not be legible.

------_=_NextPart_001_01C160AE.48907FD0
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"

two things that have given me that problem in the past:
 
dirty glass: I didn't clean the glass thoroughly after grinding, and that
kept the foil from sticking well
 
old foil: the glue seems to lose it's stickiness over time. If it's too old,
it won't stick well
 
HTH,
 
Dan

-----Original Message-----
From: CINDEL67@aol.com [mailto:CINDEL67@aol.com]
Sent: Monday, October 29, 2001 2:01 PM
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Foil troubles


Hi everyone! 
I'm working on some small ornaments right now and I'm having trouble with my
foil coming up. 

WHAT AM I DOING WRONG??????

I burnish and burnish and burnish and my foil still seems comes up when I'm
soldering. Could it be my flux? 
I'd love to hear some advice on the stuff. 
I currently have 3 different kinds of flux. I have Glass Pro Solder Flux
(liquid), Ruby Fluid Soldering paste, and No Korode Regular paste flux. I
wasn't sure if I should be using liquid or paste. 
My soldering iron is a Weller 100 with a built in rheostat. I have 4
tips......#7- 3/8" (that I usually use), #7- 1/8", #7- beading, and #6-
1/4". Am I using the wrong tip?

Any help would be so welcomed. 
Thank you for listening to my problem.
Cinda 


------_=_NextPart_001_01C160AE.48907FD0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META HTTP-EQUIV="Content-Type" CONTENT="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1">


<META content="MSHTML 6.00.2600.0" name=GENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY>
<DIV><SPAN class=044294519-29102001><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2>two 
things that have given me that problem in the past:</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=044294519-29102001><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff 
size=2></FONT></SPAN>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=044294519-29102001><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2>dirty 
glass: I didn't clean the glass thoroughly after grinding, and that kept the 
foil from sticking well</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=044294519-29102001><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff 
size=2></FONT></SPAN>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=044294519-29102001><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2>old 
foil: the glue seems to lose it's stickiness over time. If it's too old, it 
won't stick well</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=044294519-29102001><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff 
size=2></FONT></SPAN>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=044294519-29102001><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff 
size=2>HTH,</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=044294519-29102001><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff 
size=2></FONT></SPAN>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=044294519-29102001><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff 
size=2>Dan</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE 
style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid">
  <DIV class=OutlookMessageHeader dir=ltr align=left><FONT face=Tahoma 
  size=2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B> CINDEL67@aol.com 
  [mailto:CINDEL67@aol.com]<BR><B>Sent:</B> Monday, October 29, 2001 2:01 
  PM<BR><B>To:</B> glass@bungi.com<BR><B>Subject:</B> Foil 
  troubles<BR><BR></FONT></DIV><FONT lang=0 face=Garamond color=#8000ff size=4 
  FAMILY="SERIF">Hi everyone! <BR>I'm working on some small ornaments right now 
  and I'm having trouble with my foil coming up. <BR><BR>WHAT AM I DOING 
  WRONG??????<BR><BR>I burnish and burnish and burnish and my foil still seems 
  comes up when I'm soldering. Could it be my flux? <BR>I'd love to hear some 
  advice on the stuff. <BR>I currently have 3 different kinds of flux. I have 
  Glass Pro Solder Flux (liquid), Ruby Fluid Soldering paste, and No Korode 
  Regular paste flux. I wasn't sure if I should be using liquid or paste. <BR>My 
  soldering iron is a Weller 100 with a built in rheostat. I have 4 
  tips......#7- 3/8" (that I usually use), #7- 1/8", #7- beading, and #6- 1/4". 
  Am I using the wrong tip?<BR><BR>Any help would be so welcomed. <BR>Thank you 
  for listening to my problem.<BR>Cinda</FONT> </BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

------_=_NextPart_001_01C160AE.48907FD0--
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Mon Oct 29 16:09:47 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15yMHo-00000pa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Mon, 29 Oct 2001 15:57:44 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: nysernet.org!rjones
From: Robin Jones <rjones@nysernet.org>
To: CncptThnkr@aol.com, DF125031@exchange.DAYTONOH.NCR.com,
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
Subject: Re: Looking for Christmas Ornament Patterns
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2001 17:03:25 -0500
Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.0.20011029164932.00a9f220@secundus.nysernet.org>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Pat -

I was considering sending the same suggestion, you described the icicle 
ornament perfectly.  They're inexpensive, easy to make and give a lot of 
sparkle for the buck!  A small, artificial tree with lots of lights makes 
for a really good way to display these.

For the holidays I make banana nut bread, wrap them in plastic or holiday 
foil, tie a pretty ribbon and attach an icicle  (food disappears fast, and 
the icicle gets hung on the tree).

- Robin

At 01:12 PM 10/29/2001 -0500, CncptThnkr@aol.com wrote:
>Donna,
>
>Since you are planning on a school craft show would you do any better with
>small inexpensive ornaments?   I saw iridescent cracked ice cut into 5 or 6
>inch long tapered pieces, corners were rounded off, copper foiled around the
>outside and a hanging ring on top, they were being sold 1.00 each or 6 for
>5.00.
>
>Have you checked the Internet for free patterns?   There are quite a number
>of sites with free glass patterns.
>
>Good Luck.
>
>Pat
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Mon Oct 29 16:27:00 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15yMPh-00006Pa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Mon, 29 Oct 2001 16:05:53 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: charter.net!jkwilliams
From: "Kim Williams" <jkwilliams@charter.net>
To: "Becker, Donna" <DF125031@exchange.DAYTONOH.NCR.com>,glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1"
Subject: Re: Looking for Christmas Ornament Patterns
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2001 15:32:34 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@charter.net>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@exchange.DAYTONOH.NCR.com>>
Precedence: bulk

I have had good luck with 3 leaf holly with red nuggets for
the berries.  I just drew a holly leaf and kind of fudged
them together with the berries on top.  Fast and easy.  Also
if this is for a school craft fair maybe some apples in
different sizes. Cut the apple shape with 1 leaf and add a
thick wire for the stem.  I sell alot of these for students
to give to teachers for christmas presents.  I hope this
helps and tell your son to have a great trip.

Kim Williams
jkwilliams@charter.net


On Fri, 26 Oct 2001 14:41:28 -0400
 "Becker, Donna" <DF125031@exchange.DAYTONOH.NCR.com> wrote:
> Hello Again!
> 
> My son is going on a mission trip to Mexico with our
> church youth group.
> Each of the kids are expected to raise $300 for there
> part of the expense to
> get there, etc.  Our local grade school is having a
> "craft fair" in about a
> month, so I asked him if he'd like to make stained glass
> ornaments for the
> event and sell them to help raise the money.  I will of
> course be doing a
> lot of the work, but since I am a hobbyist, we have a lot
> to make in a short
> time.  Looking through my file cabinets of patterns, I
> realized I just don't
> have much of that type of pattern.  Here's what I'm
> looking for:  Christmas,
> 5 to 10 pieces, somewhat elegant, and when shrunk to
> ornament size, the
> pieces are not too small to work with (he's a freshman
> boy, he's not too
> good with tiny pieces yet, and I want him to really put
> the effort in).
> I've been to Warner-Criv and a couple other sites, and
> will continue
> looking, but I was wondering if anyone else had any they
> could share or knew
> of a good source.
> 
> Thank You all so much for everything.  I've learned so
> much from this group.
> 
> 
> Donna Becker
> Senior Consultant II
> Office  630-469-5726
> Cell 630-248-0184
> donna.becker@chicagoil.ncr.com
> 
> 		
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to:
> glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Mon Oct 29 17:12:26 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15yNAt-0000HKa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Mon, 29 Oct 2001 16:54:39 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: gjr
From: gjr@bungi.com (Glenna Rand)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Fusing Question
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2001 16:53:50 PST
Message-ID: <m15yNA8-0000HKC@daver.bungi.com>
Precedence: bulk

Aloha everyone,
Well I finally made it back into the studio.  The baby is already over
a year!  Anyway I was wondering if there is any kind of glue I can use
when I am stacking small pieces of glass before fusing to keep things in
place.  I do not want to damage the dichroic patterns..??..
Help?

-- 
Glenna Rand
gjr@bungi.com
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Mon Oct 29 21:08:23 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15yQcB-0000BFa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Mon, 29 Oct 2001 20:35:03 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: softhouse.com!giapet
From: "Karen K" <giapet@softhouse.com>
To: "Glenna Rand" <gjr@bungi.com>, <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: Fusing Question
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2001 21:56:29 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@softhouse.com>
References: <<m15yNA8-0000HKC@daver.bungi.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Hi Glenna!
I use a very small amount of white glue.  Usually on the corners, and
let soak for a bit just before fusing temp to burn off the glue & swish
out the air tween the pieces of glass.

Karen
giapet@softhouse.com

> Aloha everyone,
> Well I finally made it back into the studio.  The baby is already over
> a year!  Anyway I was wondering if there is any kind of glue I can use
> when I am stacking small pieces of glass before fusing to keep things
in
> place.  I do not want to damage the dichroic patterns..??..
> Help?
>



----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Mon Oct 29 22:13:33 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15yRXs-00002sa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Mon, 29 Oct 2001 21:34:40 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: home.com!kristc
From: "Kris" <kristc@home.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Fusing Question
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2001 23:23:21 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>
References: <<m15yNA8-0000HKC@daver.bungi.com>>
Precedence: bulk

There is glue that is made for this purpose, if I remember. I believe plain
old white school glue like Elmer's also works just fine. Dot it on with the
point of a toothpick and use just enough to do the job. I haven't done any
fusing for quite some time though so please someone correct me if I'm wrong.

It seems like that baby was born just a little while ago!

Kris

----- Original Message -----
From: "Glenna Rand" <gjr@bungi.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Monday, October 29, 2001 7:53 PM
Subject: Fusing Question


> Aloha everyone,
> Well I finally made it back into the studio.  The baby is already over
> a year!  Anyway I was wondering if there is any kind of glue I can use
> when I am stacking small pieces of glass before fusing to keep things in
> place.  I do not want to damage the dichroic patterns..??..
> Help?
>
> --
> Glenna Rand
> gjr@bungi.com
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>

----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Mon Oct 29 23:11:36 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15ySjp-00006Ba@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Mon, 29 Oct 2001 22:51:05 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: yahoo.com!beadnik
From: Joan <beadnik@yahoo.com>
To: Glenna Rand <gjr@bungi.com>, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Fusing Question
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2001 20:03:36 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>
References: <<m15yNA8-0000HKC@daver.bungi.com>>
Precedence: bulk


Hi Glenna....

I made fused dichroic glass components for jewelry, so
I am always stacking itsy bits. I 'break the rules'
and use Aleene's thick designer tacky glue.  I find
with this thicker glue things don't slip and slide as
much as when I was using ordinary Elmer's. I use a
tiny amount applied with the tip of a toothpick. I put
the tiny dot of glue as close to the edge of the piece
as I can. I try to avoid putting the glue directly on
the dichroic coating.... but sometimes there is no
other place to put it.  I think as long as the glue is
not 'trapped' in the middle with no place to escape as
it burns off.... it's OK!

Joan

--- Glenna Rand <gjr@bungi.com> wrote:
> Aloha everyone,
> Well I finally made it back into the studio.  The
> baby is already over
> a year!  Anyway I was wondering if there is any kind
> of glue I can use
> when I am stacking small pieces of glass before
> fusing to keep things in
> place.  I do not want to damage the dichroic
> patterns..??..
> Help?
> 
> -- 
> Glenna Rand
> gjr@bungi.com
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to:
> glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to:
> glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
  

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
http://personals.yahoo.com
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Mon Oct 29 23:41:42 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15ySxs-0000Bsa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Mon, 29 Oct 2001 23:05:36 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: verizon.net!moya.oneal
From: "Moya O'Neal" <moya.oneal@verizon.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: RE: Ornament patterns
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2001 00:59:51 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@verizon.net>
Precedence: bulk

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0059_01C160DE.2E1C5720
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Donna,=20
One of the quickest and easiest ornaments I have made came from an idea =
in the Warner-Criv catalog a few years back.  Using some of the =
Christmas theme filigree, simply tin the filigree and place on top of a =
piece of glass.  Iridized works quite well, particularly the crackle =
back type.  I just cut shapes out (squares, circles, ovals, etc.) and =
soldered the filigree on and finished the edge.  If you need to extend =
the filigree to reach the side of the glass background, just twist some =
22 gauge wire and attach.  You can sell these for $3-$5 and it is an =
easy production product.
Moya

------=_NextPart_000_0059_01C160DE.2E1C5720
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4522.1800" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>Donna, </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>One of the quickest and easiest ornaments I have =
made came=20
from an idea in the Warner-Criv catalog a few years back.&nbsp; Using =
some of=20
the Christmas theme filigree, simply tin the filigree and place on top =
of a=20
piece of glass.&nbsp; Iridized works quite well, particularly the =
crackle back=20
type.&nbsp; I just cut shapes out (squares, circles, ovals, etc.) and =
soldered=20
the filigree on and finished the edge.&nbsp; If you need to extend the =
filigree=20
to reach the side of the glass background, just twist some 22 gauge wire =
and=20
attach.&nbsp; You can sell these for $3-$5 and it is an easy production=20
product.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>Moya</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0059_01C160DE.2E1C5720--

----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Mon Oct 29 23:56:07 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15yTQc-0000Aga@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Mon, 29 Oct 2001 23:35:18 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: softhouse.com!giapet
From: "Karen K" <giapet@softhouse.com>
To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: glass stress
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2001 15:43:19 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@softhouse.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Check a camera shop or use 2 pairs of polarized (fishing type)
sunglasses & a flashlight.

Karen
giapet@softhouse.com



> Is there a cheaper way to check  fusing stresses than to pay @ $60 for
a
> stress meter?  Seems like Brad Walker recommended just getting flat
> polarizing filters, but where do you find such things? - Cec



----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Tue Oct 30 00:12:43 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15yTRX-0000Bka@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Mon, 29 Oct 2001 23:36:15 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: softhouse.com!giapet
From: "Karen K" <giapet@softhouse.com>
To: "Cecily & Ralph Wood" <cecnralph@home.com>,
Subject: Re: glass stress
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2001 10:22:26 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@softhouse.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>>
Precedence: bulk


Check a camera shop or use 2 pairs of polarized (fishing type)
sunglasses & a flashlight.

Karen
giapet@softhouse.com


> Is there a cheaper way to check  fusing stresses than to pay @ $60 for
a
> stress meter?  Seems like Brad Walker recommended just getting flat
> polarizing filters, but where do you find such things? - Cec
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>


----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Tue Oct 30 07:03:30 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15yZwY-0000Gwa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Tue, 30 Oct 2001 06:32:42 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Foil troubles
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2001 09:30:56 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com>
Precedence: bulk

Message text written by INTERNET:CINDEL67@aol.com
>I'm working on some small ornaments right now and I'm having trouble wit=
h
my =

foil coming up.<

Are you washing the pieces well enough to remove any/all glass dust which=

is left on the edges after grinding?

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
Denton, TX
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Tue Oct 30 07:31:49 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15yaYc-0000HRa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Tue, 30 Oct 2001 07:12:02 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Looking for Christmas Ornament Patterns
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2001 09:30:53 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com>
Precedence: bulk

Message text written by "Becker, Donna"
>Here's what I'm looking for:  Christmas,
5 to 10 pieces, somewhat elegant, and when shrunk to ornament size, the
pieces are not too small to work with (he's a freshman boy, he's not too
good with tiny pieces yet, and I want him to really put the effort in).
I've been to Warner-Criv and a couple other sites, and will continue
looking, but I was wondering if anyone else had any they could share or
knew
of a good source.<

Heard of a nice Christmas ornament idea from a friend: get a round circle=

of brass - ornament sized.  Copper foil random scrap pieces of glass.  Fi=
t
a few of them inside the brass circle and solder it together.  This will
leave some open areas inside the circle, but that's nice too.

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
Denton, TX
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Tue Oct 30 10:23:00 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15ydQo-0000CYa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Tue, 30 Oct 2001 10:16:10 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: home.com!lorley
From: Lorley Oneyear <lorley@home.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: multipart/mixed; x-avg-checked=avg-ok-2C20621E; boundary="=======260A7B40======="
Subject: xmas
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2001 09:05:37 -0700
Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20011030090404.00a54c30@mail>
Precedence: bulk

--=======260A7B40=======
Content-Type: text/plain; x-avg-checked=avg-ok-2C20621E; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

How about a small 2" glue chip bevel square with two half circles soldered 
to two adjacent sides. It makes a cute, quick and colorful small heart 
ornament. Lorley

--=======260A7B40=======--

----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Tue Oct 30 17:11:39 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15yjkf-00008La@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Tue, 30 Oct 2001 17:01:05 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: pgtv.net!jenniverre
From: jenniverre@pgtv.net (jenniverre)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
Subject: Foil troubles
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2001 16:53:40 -0500
Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20011030165127.00ab8600@pop1.pgtv.net>
Precedence: bulk

Cindy, I haven't seen anyone mention the possibility that your foil is 
lifting because of heat.  Check to be sure you're not leaving your 
soldering iron on any one place too long.  If you do, the foil will "curl" 
up off the glass.

Jennifer

Jennifer G. Buckner jenniverre@pgtv.net

----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Wed Oct 31 00:03:58 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15yqHb-0000F7a@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Tue, 30 Oct 2001 23:59:31 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: home.net!lkallen
From: "Kent Allen" <lkallen@home.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: kaleidoscope Image disks
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2001 18:09:48 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.net>
Precedence: bulk

Hey all,

I posted this question on the newsgroup rec.crafts.glass, and only got 1
"sorta" response.  Thought I'd try here. Any ideas would be appreciated.


Today I saw an oil filled, at least I think it was oil, kaleidoscope Image
wheel.  I've built kaleidoscopes using the image disks and wheels but not
filled with liquid.  Any Ideas how to seal the center where the axle goes
thru?  Is the liquid mineral oil or glycerin?

Thanks,

Kent Allen

----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Wed Oct 31 05:14:11 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15yv97-0000JGa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Wed, 31 Oct 2001 05:11:05 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: sympatico.ca!tandg.higson
From: Gillian Higson <tandg.higson@sympatico.ca>
To: "Becker, Donna" <DF125031@exchange.DAYTONOH.NCR.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
Subject: Re: Looking for Christmas Ornament Patterns
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 08:14:30 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@sympatico.ca>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@exchange.DAYTONOH.NCR.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Hi Donna
Try the Spectrum pattern pages .  They have a sheet of small Christmas 
ornaments.  Also Quilting books are good for ideas too.
Regards
Gillian

Becker, Donna wrote:

>Hello Again!
>
>My son is going on a mission trip to Mexico with our church youth group.
>Each of the kids are expected to raise $300 for there part of the expense to
>get there, etc.  Our local grade school is having a "craft fair" in about a
>month, so I asked him if he'd like to make stained glass ornaments for the
>event and sell them to help raise the money.  I will of course be doing a
>lot of the work, but since I am a hobbyist, we have a lot to make in a short
>time.  Looking through my file cabinets of patterns, I realized I just don't
>have much of that type of pattern.  Here's what I'm looking for:  Christmas,
>5 to 10 pieces, somewhat elegant, and when shrunk to ornament size, the
>pieces are not too small to work with (he's a freshman boy, he's not too
>good with tiny pieces yet, and I want him to really put the effort in).
>I've been to Warner-Criv and a couple other sites, and will continue
>looking, but I was wondering if anyone else had any they could share or knew
>of a good source.
>
>Thank You all so much for everything.  I've learned so much from this group.
>
>
>Donna Becker
>Senior Consultant II
>Office  630-469-5726
>Cell 630-248-0184
>donna.becker@chicagoil.ncr.com
>
>		
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>


----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Wed Oct 31 11:34:01 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15z12N-00008aa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Wed, 31 Oct 2001 11:28:31 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: hotmail.com!nicole_beilke
From: "Nicole Beilke" <nicole_beilke@hotmail.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
Subject: Purchasing Glass
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 13:26:30 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@hotmail.com>
Precedence: bulk

Hey Everyone, I'm just getting started on working with stained glass and I'm 
wondering how much you would typically pay for glass? Are you able to 
purchase it wholesale? Do you buy it by the box or just the pieces necessary 
for the design you're working on? I'm pretty clueless about how I should go 
about obtaining glass and if I going to end up paying retail and I would 
really appreciate any tips you could give.
Thanks in advance,
Nicole

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp

----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Wed Oct 31 13:11:52 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15z2Pl-000038a@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Wed, 31 Oct 2001 12:56:45 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: nysernet.org!rjones
From: Robin Jones <rjones@nysernet.org>
To: "Nicole Beilke" <nicole_beilke@hotmail.com>, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
Subject: Re: Purchasing Glass
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 15:52:14 -0500
Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.0.20011031153945.00a9bbc0@secundus.nysernet.org>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@hotmail.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Hi Nicole -

I am a stained glass hobbiest, so I don't create nearly as much as I would 
like to.  But the best part (for me, anyway) is choosing the color and 
texture of the glass to create my project with.  I usually show up at the 
glass shop with my pattern in hand, this way the person at the glass shop 
can help me judge how much glass I will need.  I buy my glass at local 
glass shops, and price varies by the glass texture and color that I choose.

I'm pretty lucky that within a 20 mile radius there are three really good 
glass shops for me to seek that perfect piece of glass - and glass hunting 
always makes me feel like a little kid with a brand new box of crayola 
crayons (of course with the handy, dandy sharpener on the back of the box.)

- Robin

At 01:26 PM 10/31/2001 -0600, Nicole Beilke wrote:
>Hey Everyone, I'm just getting started on working with stained glass and 
>I'm wondering how much you would typically pay for glass? Are you able to 
>purchase it wholesale? Do you buy it by the box or just the pieces 
>necessary for the design you're working on? I'm pretty clueless about how 
>I should go about obtaining glass and if I going to end up paying retail 
>and I would really appreciate any tips you could give.
>Thanks in advance,
>Nicole
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Wed Oct 31 14:14:45 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15z3JY-00007Ca@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Wed, 31 Oct 2001 13:54:24 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: scjd.state.sc.us!KPalmer
From: Karen Palmer <KPalmer@scjd.state.sc.us>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Broken pieces
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 16:33:21 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@scjd.state.sc.us>
Precedence: bulk

It seems that almost every piece I do ends up with a cracked piece of glass.
I have no idea what I am doing wrong.  The lady I took lessons from showed
me how to pick up my piece and I am very careful with it.  However, I still
have those darned cracks far too often.  Anyone have any advice for me?

Karen
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Wed Oct 31 14:45:07 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15z3yL-0000JVa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Wed, 31 Oct 2001 14:36:33 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: aol.com!UserDusty
From: UserDusty@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_12.14bedf0b.2911d603_boundary"
Subject: Re: Foil troubles
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 17:32:35 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>
Precedence: bulk


--part1_12.14bedf0b.2911d603_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Hi everyone,

Cinda, I started with the Weller Iron with the built in rheostat and found 
that the more I used the iron per session the hotter it got.  I figured out 
that every time I picked up the iron I would bump the rheostat and thus kept 
turning up the heat.  So I fixed the problem by putting a rubber band around 
the irons shaft to hold the control in place. This worked pretty good for a 
while then the rheostat burnt out.  If this happens the iron can be taken 
apart and just bypass the rheostat with the wiring.  After that I purchased a 
mini phaser and that iron is still going strong.  I've it now for about seven 
years. If this happens and you can't fix it.  Take it to a friend who can 
work on electrical products.  This repair is nothing major.  

good luck,

Ken O. 

--part1_12.14bedf0b.2911d603_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>Hi everyone,
<BR>
<BR>Cinda, I started with the Weller Iron with the built in rheostat and found that the more I used the iron per session the hotter it got. &nbsp;I figured out that every time I picked up the iron I would bump the rheostat and thus kept turning up the heat. &nbsp;So I fixed the problem by putting a rubber band around the irons shaft to hold the control in place. This worked pretty good for a while then the rheostat burnt out. &nbsp;If this happens the iron can be taken apart and just bypass the rheostat with the wiring. &nbsp;After that I purchased a mini phaser and that iron is still going strong. &nbsp;I've it now for about seven years. If this happens and you can't fix it. &nbsp;Take it to a friend who can work on electrical products. &nbsp;This repair is nothing major. &nbsp;
<BR>
<BR>good luck,
<BR>
<BR>Ken O. </FONT></HTML>

--part1_12.14bedf0b.2911d603_boundary--
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Wed Oct 31 15:46:13 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15z4fs-00008aa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Wed, 31 Oct 2001 15:21:32 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: aol.com!Gcanvas
From: Gcanvas@aol.com
To: KPalmer@scjd.state.sc.us, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_5a.f96f9c.2911e028_boundary"
Subject: Re: Broken pieces
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 18:15:52 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>
Precedence: bulk


--part1_5a.f96f9c.2911e028_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

In a message dated 10/31/2001 5:16:24 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
KPalmer@scjd.state.sc.us writes:


> It seems that almost every piece I do ends up with a cracked piece of glass.
> 
I had the same problem when I started in stained glass.  Among the things 
I've done to correct this type of problem are:

Make sure you don't fit the ready to solder pieces too tightly.  There should 
be room between the pieces for solder to run.  And doing so, having a little 
slack between pieces, may remove stress in the finished piece.

When soldering don't hold the soldering gun too long in any one spot.  The 
increased heat in that area may cause a crack to start in the adjacent glass 
that may not show up until you pick up the piece and stress that spot.  If 
you have an area of solder line that you don't like, let it cool and then 
come back to it to smooth the solder line. The temptation is to correct the 
poor solder line immediately, but resist it and come back to it after the 
solder has cooled.

When you have finished foiling and all the pieces are sitting there ready to 
be soldered, and you're dying to start the solder process, take the time to 
check each piece to: make sure you have foiled all pieces,  that all the 
pieces are placed with your choice of texture in the same up or down 
position, and that none of the pieces show any evidence of a crack starting.  
A dropped piece of glass, a piece hit by one of your tools, or a piece that 
had a stress crack could now be showing the crack.

And if all else fails, just figure you are learning with every completed 
project.

Jim
gcanvas@aol.com



--part1_5a.f96f9c.2911e028_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>In a message dated 10/31/2001 5:16:24 PM Eastern Standard Time, KPalmer@scjd.state.sc.us writes:
<BR>
<BR>
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">It seems that almost every piece I do ends up with a cracked piece of glass.
<BR></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>I had the same problem when I started in stained glass. &nbsp;Among the things I've done to correct this type of problem are:
<BR>
<BR>Make sure you don't fit the ready to solder pieces too tightly. &nbsp;There should be room between the pieces for solder to run. &nbsp;And doing so, having a little slack between pieces, may remove stress in the finished piece.
<BR>
<BR>When soldering don't hold the soldering gun too long in any one spot. &nbsp;The increased heat in that area may cause a crack to start in the adjacent glass that may not show up until you pick up the piece and stress that spot. &nbsp;If you have an area of solder line that you don't like, let it cool and then come back to it to smooth the solder line. The temptation is to correct the poor solder line immediately, but resist it and come back to it after the solder has cooled.
<BR>
<BR>When you have finished foiling and all the pieces are sitting there ready to be soldered, and you're dying to start the solder process, take the time to check each piece to: make sure you have foiled all pieces, &nbsp;that all the pieces are placed with your choice of texture in the same up or down position, and that none of the pieces show any evidence of a crack starting. &nbsp;A dropped piece of glass, a piece hit by one of your tools, or a piece that had a stress crack could now be showing the crack.
<BR>
<BR>And if all else fails, just figure you are learning with every completed project.
<BR>
<BR>Jim
<BR>gcanvas@aol.com
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

--part1_5a.f96f9c.2911e028_boundary--
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass