From owner-glass Sat Sep  1 02:04:19 2001
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X-Path: yahoo.com!sparkylynne
From: Lynne Black <sparkylynne@yahoo.com>
To: Alex Gacic <agacic@yahoo.com>, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: bowling pattern
Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 14:48:45 -0700 (PDT)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>
References: <<20010831131652.5264.qmail@web13404.mail.yahoo.com>>
Precedence: bulk

I would love a .jpg of the bowling pattern, if you can
find it.  :-)  Thanks so much!

Lynne

========================
> Hi Lynn
> 
> I made a neat one a few years ago.  I developed it
> from some clipart which shows a ball smashing into
> the
> pins and kind of a starburst behind it.  I'll dig it
> up and send you a jpg if you like.
> 
> Alex Gacic


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From owner-glass Sat Sep  1 09:59:30 2001
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X-Path: Webzone.net!JamesAdams
From: "James Adams" <JamesAdams@Webzone.net>
To: "Glass" <Glass@Bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: Light box
Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2001 09:45:11 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@Webzone.net>
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Is there a pattern somewhere for building one  of these light boxes? I have
thought about building one, but I'm afraid I would get the light in the
wrong place or get the wrong size light. I had just planned to make my
surface out of a 1/4 inch thick  piece of glass.

James

email JamesAdams@Webzone.net
http://frontpage.webzone.net/jamesadams/james.htm


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<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<STYLE>BODY {
	FONT-SIZE: 12pt; COLOR: #000000; FONT-FAMILY: "Comic Sans MS", "serif"
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<BODY bgColor=3D#fff8dd>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D630444214-01092001><FONT face=3D'"Comic Sans MS"'>Is =
there a=20
pattern somewhere for building one&nbsp; of these light boxes? I have =
thought=20
about building one, but I'm afraid I would get the light in the wrong =
place or=20
get the wrong size light. I had just planned to make my surface out of a =
1/4=20
inch thick&nbsp; piece of glass.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D630444214-01092001></SPAN>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D630444214-01092001><FONT=20
face=3D'"Comic Sans MS"'>James</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D630444214-01092001></SPAN>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>email </FONT><FONT face=3DArial =
size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"mailto:JamesAdams@Webzone.net">JamesAdams@Webzone.net</A></FONT><=
/DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"http://frontpage.webzone.net/jamesadams/james.htm">http://frontpa=
ge.webzone.net/jamesadams/james.htm</A><A=20
href=3D"http://frontpage.webzone.net/jamesadams"></A></FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-glass Sat Sep  1 13:02:34 2001
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X-Path: cornell.edu!bjs10
From: Barbara Snell <bjs10@cornell.edu>
To: "James Adams" <JamesAdams@Webzone.net>, "Glass" <Glass@Bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
Subject: Re: Light box
Date: Sat, 01 Sep 2001 15:54:18 -0400
Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20010901150359.00ad22a0@postoffice.mail.cornell.edu>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@Webzone.net>>
Precedence: bulk

My first light box was a simple one that I made myself....  I wrapped four 
bricks in newspapers, placed them on a counter, put the clear glass on top 
of the bricks so that each brick was in a corner.  I put two light sticks 
under the glass and there you go... a light box.... it worked and did not 
cost much at all.

Not too long ago a friend of mine made one for me.... made a box the same 
dimensions as the outsides of the glass.   To place the glass on top of the 
box.... he glued firring strips that had been cut 1/4" shorter than the 
height of the inside of the box.  He glued two of these pieces of firring 
on each side of the inside of the box....  then placed the glass on 
top.  The firring strips acted as stops   We painted the inside of the box 
white to maximize the light.... cut out a hole so that the cords from the 
light sticks could go through.  I plugged the light sticks into a power 
strip with an on/off switch.  It works great and I cannot imagine doing 
without it !!!  I like the clear glass on top but sometimes the light is 
too bright and I want an opaque surface so I really like the idea of the 
freezer paper.... I am going to try it.

A friend made mine for me.... Just a square box filled with light 
sticks.... and painted white on the inside.


At 09:45 AM 09/01/2001 -0500, James Adams wrote:
>This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
>
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>         charset="iso-8859-1"
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>
>Is there a pattern somewhere for building one  of these light boxes? I have
>thought about building one, but I'm afraid I would get the light in the
>wrong place or get the wrong size light. I had just planned to make my
>surface out of a 1/4 inch thick  piece of glass.
>
>James
>
>email JamesAdams@Webzone.net
>http://frontpage.webzone.net/jamesadams/james.htm
>
>
>------=_NextPart_000_0006_01C132CA.CB471360
>Content-Type: text/html;
>         charset="iso-8859-1"
>Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
>
><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
>BODY { FONT-SIZE: 12pt; COLOR: #000000; FONT-FAMILY: "Comic Sans MS", 
>"serif" } A { COLOR: #0000ff } HR { WIDTH: 100%; COLOR: #000000; HEIGHT: 2px }
>Is = there a=20 pattern somewhere for building one  of these light boxes? 
>I have = thought=20 about building one, but I'm afraid I would get the 
>light in the wrong = place or=20 get the wrong size light. I had just 
>planned to make my surface out of a = 1/4=20 inch thick  piece of glass.
>
>James
>
>email <3d.htm>JamesAdams@Webzone.net<= /DIV>
><3d.htm>http://frontpa= ge.webzone.net/jamesadams/james.htm
>
>
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>
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From owner-glass Sat Sep  1 15:08:57 2001
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X-Path: neo.rr.com!cndylou1
From: "Candy Chester" <cndylou1@neo.rr.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Light box
Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2001 18:00:20 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@neo.rr.com>
References: <<4.3.2.7.2.20010901150359.00ad22a0@postoffice.mail.cornell.edu>>
Precedence: bulk

Barbara,
I've been reading with interest all the letters on light boxes and have
decide to make one.  so far, yours sounds the easiest.  However, what is a
light stick? Do you mean a flourescent light?
Candy

BTW, love this list, I am learning so much.  I am new to this craft and I
just love it.  I get lost for hours in my projects and hope to start selling
my "wares"


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From owner-glass Sat Sep  1 18:33:15 2001
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From: Sherry Greer <texpenguin@yahoo.com>
To: GlassList <glass@bungi.com>
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Subject: frames
Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2001 17:39:40 -0700 (PDT)
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Thanks to all for your advice on frames.  I have a very clear idea on
what to do now.  I'm sure Grandma will be very pleased with her
Christmas gift!  This list sure is great for learning.
Sherry

=====
Sherry Greer
texpenguin@yahoo.com
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From owner-glass Sat Sep  1 19:36:30 2001
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From: Sherry Greer <texpenguin@yahoo.com>
To: GlassList <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: frames
Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2001 17:39:40 -0700 (PDT)
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Thanks to all for your advice on frames.  I have a very clear idea on
what to do now.  I'm sure Grandma will be very pleased with her
Christmas gift!  This list sure is great for learning.
Sherry

=====
Sherry Greer
texpenguin@yahoo.com
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From owner-glass Sat Sep  1 19:45:00 2001
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From: Barbara Snell <bjs10@cornell.edu>
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Subject: Re: Light box
Date: Sat, 01 Sep 2001 19:57:56 -0400
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References: <<4.3.2.7.2.20010901150359.00ad22a0@postoffice.mail.cornell.edu>>
Precedence: bulk

Yes, the light sticks are florescent lights that I found at K-Mart.  They 
are about 15" long with cords that you can just plug in to work 
anywhere.  They are not very expensive, I bought three and laid them in the 
floor of the box a few inches from each other.  I plugged them into a power 
strip that has an on/off switch so I can turn them off and on from there.

Which light box are you going to make, the one with the bricks or the other 
one?

Barbara

At 06:00 PM 09/01/2001 -0400, Candy Chester wrote:
>Barbara,
>I've been reading with interest all the letters on light boxes and have
>decide to make one.  so far, yours sounds the easiest.  However, what is a
>light stick? Do you mean a flourescent light?
>Candy
>
>BTW, love this list, I am learning so much.  I am new to this craft and I
>just love it.  I get lost for hours in my projects and hope to start selling
>my "wares"
>
>
>----
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>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
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From owner-glass Sun Sep  2 04:31:40 2001
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Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_17.1adcbeb0.28c36095_boundary"
Subject: Re: Light Box
Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2001 06:14:45 EDT
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Hi All, 

When I built my cutting table I made room for a 2 x 3 ft. light box at one 
end.  I used 3/4 x 4 x 8 sheet of plywood.  I reinforced the bottom with 
strips of 2 x 4 cut in half.  I routed the opening for the light box to 
accommodate the 1/4 in. plate glass. I then put a very cheap carpeting on the 
top and secured it with carpet tape and staples.  My instructor had her glass 
sand blasted to diffuse the light and everytime she uses it she hates it 
can't see.  I covered the back of mine with clear contact paper.  The box 
round the bottom was just 1/4 in plywood with stripping to hold my 2ft 
florescent lamps.  The whole table is mounted on a pair of saw horses.  My 
box is very Brit but I can work with some very dark glass and see what I'm 
doing.  Really works great for moasics.  If there is too much light I cover 
the areas I'm not using with manilla folders. If want more information please 
email me.

Good luck,
Ken O 
  

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>Hi All, 
<BR>
<BR>When I built my cutting table I made room for a 2 x 3 ft. light box at one 
<BR>end. &nbsp;I used 3/4 x 4 x 8 sheet of plywood. &nbsp;I reinforced the bottom with 
<BR>strips of 2 x 4 cut in half. &nbsp;I routed the opening for the light box to 
<BR>accommodate the 1/4 in. plate glass. I then put a very cheap carpeting on the 
<BR>top and secured it with carpet tape and staples. &nbsp;My instructor had her glass 
<BR>sand blasted to diffuse the light and everytime she uses it she hates it 
<BR>can't see. &nbsp;I covered the back of mine with clear contact paper. &nbsp;The box 
<BR>round the bottom was just 1/4 in plywood with stripping to hold my 2ft 
<BR>florescent lamps. &nbsp;The whole table is mounted on a pair of saw horses. &nbsp;My 
<BR>box is very Brit but I can work with some very dark glass and see what I'm 
<BR>doing. &nbsp;Really works great for moasics. &nbsp;If there is too much light I cover 
<BR>the areas I'm not using with manilla folders. If want more information please 
<BR>email me.
<BR>
<BR>Good luck,
<BR>Ken O 
<BR> &nbsp;</FONT></HTML>

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From owner-glass Sun Sep  2 05:32:57 2001
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X-Path: home.com!cecnralph
From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
To: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>,
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Subject: Re: frames
Date: Sun, 02 Sep 2001 00:29:30 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>
References: <<cqzzXBAagzj7Ew8t@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>>
Organization: Grendel Studio
Precedence: bulk

Hi Steve - It is 1/8 or 5/32 inch U channel - and I've seen it in copper, lead,
brass, zinc.  Copper is what is usually found around here because it is so much
easier to cut, for hobbyists who aren't about to invest in a came saw.  There is
something called a Lil Notcher that notches the came on both sides.  You can get
a 45º angle or a 90º angle one.  Again - aimed at hobbiests who are not about to
invest a lot of money in equipment.  Handy, though.  It makes a nice sturdy edge
to a small to middling sized panel.  As a matter of fact, if you check out the
pricey commercial bevelled glass entry lights - inside halls and outside
porches/steps/patios, etc. (hanging or wall sentry types), you will discover
many of them are made with the brass came, and only soldered on the inside.
It's an amazement they don't fall apart, because there's no great amout of
soldering done. - Cec

Steve Richard wrote:

> Could someone explain to me what "hobby came" is?  I have seen it
> referred to several times, but I am not familiar with anything that it
> might be.
> Steve
> In message <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>, Cecily & Ralph Wood
> <cecnralph@home.com> writes
> >Yes - I use the hobby came which is just right for the cardboard backs with
> >the swing-out "leg".  And you bend the wire down flat to put the picture in,
> >and then bend it back up to hold the picture in.  If you are going to use
> >good photos, use the UV resistant glass - or archival glass, as it sometimes
> >called - for the see-thru area.
> >
> >Suzanne Gunn wrote:
> >
> >> Hi Sherry,
> >>
> >> There are probably several ways to do it.  What I've done is to use U
> >> came around the back of three sides of the clear glass. Just tack it on.
> >>  Slide your picture in, and some cardboard to hold the picture tighter.
> >>
> >> Then for feet of the frame,  used some heavy gauge copper wire and
> >> attached to the outside of the to outside cames.  bent it, and added
> >> solder balls fat enough to support hold it up.
> >>
> >> Hope this makes sense.
> >>
> >> Suzanne
> >>
> >> Sherry Greer wrote:
> >> >
> >> > My mom wants me to make my grandmother a stained glass pic frame for
> >> > Christmas.  The frame itself is no problem, but how do you work the
> >> > picture area?  2 pieces of picture glass sandwiched and foiled together
> >> > on only 3 sides?  If so, how do you attach the top of the frame to the
> >> > central area?  Or are there ready mady frame kits for such things?
> >> > Thanks for your help!
> >> > Sherry
> >> >
> >> > =====
> >> > Sherry Greer
> >> > texpenguin@yahoo.com
> >> > ----
> >> > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> >> > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> >> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> >> ----
> >> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> >> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> >> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> >
> >----
> >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> >To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
> --
> Steve Richard
> Verrier Art Glass Ltd
> s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk

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From owner-glass Sun Sep  2 05:35:21 2001
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From: "Peggy W. Johnsen" <edupjohn@slonet.org>
To: Sherry Greer <texpenguin@yahoo.com>
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: frames
Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2001 16:00:57 -0700 (PDT)
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References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Sherry:  I teach students to make picture frames and for the place to put
pictures they use clear glass.  On the back they run 1/4" brass chanel
around the clear glass area on three sides (leaving the top open) and then
you can slide pictures in.  They brace the picture frame using heavy wire
or glass to keep the picture frame upright.  Peggy

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From owner-glass Sun Sep  2 06:06:34 2001
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From: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@home.com>
To: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Subject: Re: frames
Date: Sun, 02 Sep 2001 07:59:19 -0500
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Organization: glassdancer
Precedence: bulk

Oh...but they *do* fall apart.  
I've seen plenty of them come in for repair.

Suzanne

Cecily & Ralph Wood wrote:
> 
> Hi Steve - It is 1/8 or 5/32 inch U channel - and I've seen it in copper, lead,
> brass, zinc.  Copper is what is usually found around here because it is so much
> easier to cut, for hobbyists who aren't about to invest in a came saw.  There is
> something called a Lil Notcher that notches the came on both sides.  You can get
> a 45º angle or a 90º angle one.  Again - aimed at hobbiests who are not about to
> invest a lot of money in equipment.  Handy, though.  It makes a nice sturdy edge
> to a small to middling sized panel.  As a matter of fact, if you check out the
> pricey commercial bevelled glass entry lights - inside halls and outside
> porches/steps/patios, etc. (hanging or wall sentry types), you will discover
> many of them are made with the brass came, and only soldered on the inside.
> It's an amazement they don't fall apart, because there's no great amout of
> soldering done. - Cec
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From owner-glass Sun Sep  2 09:01:06 2001
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From: "Candy Chester" <cndylou1@neo.rr.com>
To: "bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: light box
Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2001 09:54:11 -0400
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Which light box are you going to make, the one with the bricks or the =
other=20
one?
Barbara:

Because I have never worked with a light box before, I will probably =
make the one you described because it's the easiest in my mind anyway, =
lol.  this way I can play with it and see if I would want a larger one =
or what ever.  Everything is so new to me.....I can get carred away very =
easily
Candy

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
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charset=3Diso-8859-1">
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</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2><FONT size=3D3>Which light box are you going to =
make, the one=20
with the bricks or the other <BR>one?</FONT><BR>Barbara:</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Because I have never worked with a light box before, =
I will=20
probably make the one you described because it's the easiest in my mind =
anyway,=20
lol.&nbsp; this way I can play with it and see if I would want a larger =
one or=20
what ever.&nbsp; Everything is so new to me.....I can get carred away =
very=20
easily</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Candy</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-glass Sun Sep  2 13:30:43 2001
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X-Path: home.com!cecnralph
From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
To: gunnx4@home.com, Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Subject: Re: frames
Date: Sun, 02 Sep 2001 11:23:31 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>
References: <<3B922D27.7A11E927@home.com>>
Organization: Grendel Studio
Precedence: bulk

We've been amazed at the prices charged and the poor workmanship, so I'm glad to know
that they don't have some secret process I couldn't imagine.  I certainly was happy
I'd not bought any lighting like that before I knew glass.  It's nice to know that
what looks to be shoddy actually is.

However, if correctly used, the hobby came is fine.  It makes a nice strong. light
weight edging for panels without overpowering the panel's dimensions.  I only use
lead if the entire piece is leaded, and it gets puttied as usual.  However, most
leaded panels use wider leading in the interior, so using the hobby wieght isn't
proportional so it's not appropriate.  It pretty much is limited to suncatchers,
etc.  Lead obviously has an advantage when the edges are not straight.

Otherwise, when working with foil I use copper because it is so easy to work with, or
brass for the color.  And I don't putty the edges.  What I do do is make certain I
have a solid solder at the corners - a nice round bead, and solder at each junction
of foil lines that meet the edge.  Furthermore, I will have foiled the entire edge of
the piece before inserting it into the came,  which makes a very snug fit.  If the
piece is to be silver colored, I solder the entire came, and that bonds with the
foil, so that's super strong.

If I am going for a copper or brass color, I only do the junctures, just as you would
with lead.  If there is a long length at the edge where there is no run of foil
coming out to the edge, I very carefully drizzle a little solder on the inside of the
came to bond to the foil underneath - and probably on the back because you really
don't want that one to show.  I'll often hit the solder spots with copper plating if
the piece is to look copper, but when using the brass I often leave it natural, since
I like the pewter on brass look.  When you want that solder to match the brass, I use
one of those gold pens on the solder. - Cec

Suzanne Gunn wrote:

> Oh...but they *do* fall apart.
> I've seen plenty of them come in for repair.
>
> Suzanne
>
> Cecily & Ralph Wood wrote:
> >
> > Hi Steve - It is 1/8 or 5/32 inch U channel - and I've seen it in copper, lead,
> > brass, zinc.  Copper is what is usually found around here because it is so much
> > easier to cut, for hobbyists who aren't about to invest in a came saw.  There is
> > something called a Lil Notcher that notches the came on both sides.  You can get
> > a 45º angle or a 90º angle one.  Again - aimed at hobbiests who are not about to
> > invest a lot of money in equipment.  Handy, though.  It makes a nice sturdy edge
> > to a small to middling sized panel.  As a matter of fact, if you check out the
> > pricey commercial bevelled glass entry lights - inside halls and outside
> > porches/steps/patios, etc. (hanging or wall sentry types), you will discover
> > many of them are made with the brass came, and only soldered on the inside.
> > It's an amazement they don't fall apart, because there's no great amout of
> > soldering done. - Cec

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From owner-glass Mon Sep  3 04:02:10 2001
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Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_10d.5311394.28c4bbe0_boundary"
Subject: Re: Cement
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 06:56:32 EDT
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Hi All,

About the cement.  I started about the same way with the stones.  I never did 
two pours as you did.  Just one pour with 50/50 combination.  I didn't like 
the color or the texture.  I live in a cold area and anything I saw with 
topping mix chipped away.  Use pure portland cement and fine grit sand 
blasting sand. This will give you a smooth texture. As far as the commercial 
products.  I have used Flashcrete, Diamond Crete and Zee Stone.  Product of 
choice is Zee Stone. Only cement designed for exterior use.  I still seal 
with Thompsons and it comes in 26 different colors.  And when I talked to the 
manufacturer another color is on its way.  I do custom work and the customer 
has a larger choice of colors.  There is one site for stone people.  I have 
never tried it but here is the address: 
http://www.dmentd.com/folly/index.html .

Good luck,
Ken O
Decroative Glass

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>Hi All,
<BR>
<BR>About the cement. &nbsp;I started about the same way with the stones. &nbsp;I never did 
<BR>two pours as you did. &nbsp;Just one pour with 50/50 combination. &nbsp;I didn't like 
<BR>the color or the texture. &nbsp;I live in a cold area and anything I saw with 
<BR>topping mix chipped away. &nbsp;Use pure portland cement and fine grit sand 
<BR>blasting sand. This will give you a smooth texture. As far as the commercial 
<BR>products. &nbsp;I have used Flashcrete, Diamond Crete and Zee Stone. &nbsp;Product of 
<BR>choice is Zee Stone. Only cement designed for exterior use. &nbsp;I still seal 
<BR>with Thompsons and it comes in 26 different colors. &nbsp;And when I talked to the 
<BR>manufacturer another color is on its way. &nbsp;I do custom work and the customer 
<BR>has a larger choice of colors. &nbsp;There is one site for stone people. &nbsp;I have 
<BR>never tried it but here is the address: 
<BR>http://www.dmentd.com/folly/index.html .
<BR>
<BR>Good luck,
<BR>Ken O
<BR>Decroative Glass</FONT></HTML>

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From owner-glass Mon Sep  3 09:52:32 2001
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From: "Larry ." <createglass@hotmail.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
Subject: glass painting
Date: Mon, 03 Sep 2001 16:34:46 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@hotmail.com>
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Does anyone have a suggestion for glass paint?  I would like to add a few 
details to some pieces I have created.  I don't have a kiln with which to 
set the paint.  (I'm assuming that's how it's normally done)
I'd like an idea for some paint that I won't have to worry about chipping 
off 6 months after I've given it away.
Thank you


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From owner-glass Mon Sep  3 18:00:50 2001
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From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
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Subject: glass painting
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 20:38:52 -0400
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Message text written by "Larry ."
>I don't have a kiln with which to =

set the paint.  (I'm assuming that's how it's normally done)
I'd like an idea for some paint that I won't have to worry about chipping=
 =

off 6 months after I've given it away.<

Then you are going to want to invest in a kiln, because properly fired
glass paints (vitreous paints) are the only paints which will fufil your
2nd concern about the paint not chipping off 6 months after it's in its n=
ew
owners arms.  You can get a small QuickFire kiln for doing the small-scal=
e
glass paint firing.  Conversely, you might wish to consider just renting
time in a local studio's kiln.

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
Denton, TX
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From owner-glass Tue Sep  4 07:04:34 2001
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From owner-glass Tue Sep  4 10:30:55 2001
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Please add me to your list.
Thank you
Louise

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From owner-glass Tue Sep  4 11:20:16 2001
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From: "Louise Armstrong" <glassgirl123@hotmail.com>
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Please add me to your list.
Thank you
Louise

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From owner-glass Tue Sep  4 19:28:05 2001
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From: "Robin Ellison - Auto And Parts, LLC" <robin@auto.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: a dragon pattern
Date: Tue, 04 Sep 2001 16:54:42 -0400
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hi, this is for the person wanting a dragon pattern.

http://homepage.mac.com/legg/dragon.html

--
********************************************************
Thank You
Robin Ellison
Auto & Parts... http://www.autoandparts.com
1-888-977-1999
Automotive Internet Services that get RESULTS !!
Auto & Parts provides internet solutions exclusively for
the Auto Recycling Industry. Offering used part locating
systems for buying & selling , web site design, hosting
and maintenance at a reasonable cost.
AOL FRIENDLY LINK
<a href="http://autoandparts.com">Auto And Parts</a>



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From owner-glass Wed Sep  5 08:01:02 2001
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Subject: Moving
Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2001 07:52:41 -0400
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Hi everyone,

New to the list with questions.

I will be moving to the Orlando area in the couple of months and was 
wondering if any of you can recomend a good S.G. shop. The better the glass 
selection the more I like it. I have been doing stained glass for about 7 
years or so and feel pretty confident about most projects.
I recently tried the new Bear Solder and I really really like it. Has anyone 
else tried it yet and if so what do you think. Also My Taurus II seems to be 
going through blades at a faster rate than in previous years does anyone 
know if they have changed manufaturers and traded quality for economy.

Nice to be here
Louise

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From owner-glass Thu Sep  6 03:01:46 2001
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From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
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Subject: Re: lead hand soap
Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2001 03:20:07 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>
References: <<010301c140b0$d3356c40$6262d2cc@hawaii.rr.com>>
Organization: Grendel Studio
Precedence: bulk

There actually is an ingredient in both of those soaps which chemically bonds
with heavy metals, rendering them inert, so they don't bond with you, which is
not a healthy thing.  It is a common substance, and someone with a chemistry
background on this list said what it is, and apparently you could make your
own, if you were of such an inclination.  Still, I doubt if Dawn has that
ingredient. - Cec

Mark Franzen wrote:

> Sounds good, but teh guy at D-Lead told me Dawn dish soap works just as
> well, and it's a heck of a lot cheaper!
> C
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Cecily & Ralph Wood" <cecnralph@home.com>
> To: "Robin Ellison - Auto And Parts, LLC" <robin@autop.com>
> Sent: Sunday, August 26, 2001 8:46 AM
> Subject: Re: lead hand soap
>
> > I've used it for years and like it.  There is also a new one - Shepherd's
> > - but it has hand softeners, etc. which is fine if you only use it for
> > hands, but I use Sasha's on the glass itself - even clean my eyeglasses
> > with it. - Cec
> >
> > "Robin Ellison - Auto And Parts, LLC" wrote:
> >
> > > I ordered a couple bottles of this soap and it seems great. 15.20 for 2
> > > 16oz. bottles.
> > > they ship it and you send them a check. great service.
> > >
> > > http://www.sashas.net/soap_new.htm
> > >
> > > --
> > > ********************************************************
> > > Thank You
> > > Robin Ellison
> > > Auto & Parts... http://www.autoandparts.com
> > > 1-888-977-1999
> > > Automotive Internet Services that get RESULTS !!
> > > Auto & Parts provides internet solutions exclusively for
> > > the Auto Recycling Industry. Offering used part locating
> > > systems for buying & selling , web site design, hosting
> > > and maintenance at a reasonable cost.
> > > AOL FRIENDLY LINK
> > > <a href="http://autoandparts.com">Auto And Parts</a>
> > >
> > > ----
> > > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> >
> > ----
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> > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> >

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X-Path: stainedglass.co.uk!studio
From: "studio@stainedglass.co.uk" <studio@stainedglass.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Welcome to bungi Kathy
Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2001 10:16:52 +0100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@stainedglass.co.uk>
Precedence: bulk

Welcome Kathy to bungi
Is that a Zambian email address? or is it South Africa?
I dont think we have many members in your part of the world but perhaps
those who are in Africa could say hello in case they are near your location?
At one time the 'protocol' was for new members to be asked to let the rest
of us know a bit about themselves and where they live to start to make
friendships but this seems to have died out.
We are in England on the south coast - just to the left and 'above' the Isle
of Wight (the diamond shaped island off the coast near Southampton)on the map.
We have been doing stained glass for over 20 years and have a retail
supplies shop, commission studio and teaching centre here.
Have you been 'glassing' for long?

Regards
EliZabeth (large letter Z to avoid confusing with the other EliSabeth (the
viking) who spells her name with an S)
Bournemouth Stained Glass
http://www.stainedglass.co.uk
UK Charter Member RAGS

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From owner-glass Thu Sep  6 13:36:40 2001
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From: "studio@stainedglass.co.uk" <studio@stainedglass.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Moving
Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2001 10:16:51 +0100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@stainedglass.co.uk>
Precedence: bulk

At 07:52 05/09/01 -0400, Louise wrote:

>I will be moving to the Orlando area in the couple of months and was 
>wondering if any of you can recomend a good S.G. shop. The better the glass 
>selection the more I like it. 

Is that anywhere near Fort Lauderdale?
If so go and see Bob and Evelyn Martinez at Glass By Design	
4200 S University Dr
Ft. Lauderdale	
Florida (FL) 33328	
Tel(954)723-9433	
glassbydes@aol.com	
http://www.stainedglassbydesign.com	

I know them through the retailers association (RAGS) and they seem to have a
good range and lots of expertise to offer customers,

Regards
EliZabeth in Bournemouth (England)
Bournemouth Stained Glass
http://www.stainedglass.co.uk
UK Charter Member RAGS

----
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From owner-glass Thu Sep  6 14:01:29 2001
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X-Path: auto.com!robin
From: "Robin Ellison - Auto And Parts, LLC" <robin@auto.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: lead cleaning soap recipe
Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2001 09:18:18 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@auto.com>
Organization: Auto and Parts.Com
Precedence: bulk


--------------3B73BD6674FDD65FCFF3E5EB
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

Cleaning Procedures to Reduce Lead Dust in Your House

Because ordinary vacuuming or sweeping spreads lead dust, always clean
up dust and paint chips with wet mops or rags. Sponge mops work better
than rag or
     string mops. When sweeping, drag dust with a damp broom.
     Clean surfaces such as window sills and wells by wiping with a wet
rag wrung from a warm water solution containing 1/4 cup of a high
phosphate cleaner (such as
     trisodium phosphate, (check label for at least 6 percent phosphate
content) available through hardware or paint stores) or an automatic
dishwasher detergent with
     phosphate content above 6 percent (such as AllÆ, CascadeÆ,
ElectrasolÆ and SunlightÆ) to one gallon water.To avoid possible skin
irritation, wear rubber gloves.
     Multipurpose cleaners do not contain phosphates and are not
effective in cleaning lead dust. Wash mops thoroughly after each use to
prevent recontamination of
     cleaned surfaces. Do this twice a week. Dispose of rags after use.
     If wooden window frames are badly chipping, keep the bottom half
closed and open the top half for fresh air.
     Throw out old, soiled carpets or cover with a clean area rug
(machine washable are best).
     If you work with lead, wash work clothes separately from family
wash.

All purpose household cleaner: mix 1 teaspoon liquid soap, 1 teaspoon of
TSP and
            1 quart of warm water.  trisodium phosphate is the bonding
agent. can get at
hardware store.

--
********************************************************
Thank You
Robin Ellison
Auto & Parts... http://www.autoandparts.com
1-888-977-1999
Automotive Internet Services that get RESULTS !!
Auto & Parts provides internet solutions exclusively for
the Auto Recycling Industry. Offering used part locating
systems for buying & selling , web site design, hosting
and maintenance at a reasonable cost.
AOL FRIENDLY LINK
<a href="http://autoandparts.com">Auto And Parts</a>


--------------3B73BD6674FDD65FCFF3E5EB
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<!doctype html public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en">
<html>
<b>Cleaning Procedures to Reduce Lead Dust in Your House</b>
<p>Because ordinary vacuuming or sweeping spreads lead dust, always clean
up dust and paint chips with wet mops or rags. Sponge mops work better
than rag or
<br>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; string mops. When sweeping, drag dust with
a damp broom.
<br>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Clean surfaces such as window sills and wells
by wiping with a wet rag wrung from a warm water solution containing 1/4
cup of a high phosphate cleaner (such as
<br>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; trisodium phosphate, (check label for at least
6 percent phosphate content) available through hardware or paint stores)
or an automatic dishwasher detergent with
<br>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; phosphate content above 6 percent (such as
All&AElig;, Cascade&AElig;, Electrasol&AElig; and Sunlight&AElig;) to one
gallon water.To avoid possible skin irritation, wear rubber gloves.
<br>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Multipurpose cleaners do not contain phosphates
and are not effective in cleaning lead dust. Wash mops thoroughly after
each use to prevent recontamination of
<br>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; cleaned surfaces. Do this twice a week. Dispose
of rags after use.
<br>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; If wooden window frames are badly chipping,
keep the bottom half closed and open the top half for fresh air.
<br>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Throw out old, soiled carpets or cover with
a clean area rug (machine washable are best).
<br>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; If you work with lead, wash work clothes separately
from family wash.
<p><b>All purpose household cleaner: mix 1 teaspoon liquid soap, 1 teaspoon
of TSP and</b>
<br><b>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
1 quart of warm water.&nbsp; </b>trisodium phosphate is the bonding agent.
can get at<br>
hardware store.
<p>--
<br>********************************************************
<br>Thank You
<br>Robin Ellison
<br>Auto &amp; Parts... <A HREF="http://www.autoandparts.com">http://www.autoandparts.com</A>
<br>1-888-977-1999
<br>Automotive Internet Services that get RESULTS !!
<br>Auto &amp; Parts provides internet solutions exclusively for
<br>the Auto Recycling Industry. Offering used part locating
<br>systems for buying &amp; selling , web site design, hosting
<br>and maintenance at a reasonable cost.
<br>AOL FRIENDLY LINK
<br>&lt;a href="<A HREF="http://autoandparts.com">http://autoandparts.com</A>">Auto And Parts&lt;/a>
<br>&nbsp;</html>

--------------3B73BD6674FDD65FCFF3E5EB--


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From owner-glass Thu Sep  6 14:08:27 2001
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X-Path: home.com!arory1
From: "Neil Taylor" <arory1@home.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: please add me
Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2001 15:31:18 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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please add me ..thanks ..Neil

------=_NextPart_000_0009_01C136E8.F925C840
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
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</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>please add me ..thanks=20
..Neil</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-glass Thu Sep  6 22:26:42 2001
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	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: mindspring.com!sonyaamt
From: sonyaamt@mindspring.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Re: Moving
Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2001 23:46:11 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@mindspring.com>
Precedence: bulk

No Ft. Lauderdale is at least 4 hours South of Orlando.
"studio@stainedglass.co.uk" <studio@stainedglass.co.uk> wrote:
> At 07:52 05/09/01 -0400, Louise wrote:

>I will be moving to the Orlando area in the couple of months and was 
>wondering if any of you can recomend a good S.G. shop. The better the glass 
>selection the more I like it. 

Is that anywhere near Fort Lauderdale?
If so go and see Bob and Evelyn Martinez at Glass By Design	
4200 S University Dr
Ft. Lauderdale	
Florida (FL) 33328	
Tel(954)723-9433	
glassbydes@aol.com	
http://www.stainedglassbydesign.com	

I know them through the retailers association (RAGS) and they seem to have a
good range and lots of expertise to offer customers,

Regards
EliZabeth in Bournemouth (England)
Bournemouth Stained Glass
http://www.stainedglass.co.uk
UK Charter Member RAGS

----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

----
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From owner-glass Fri Sep  7 03:03:31 2001
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From: Lorley Oneyear <lorley@home.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: multipart/mixed; x-avg-checked=avg-ok-5B9379C2; boundary="=======2F5644E9======="
Subject: cutter
Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2001 20:31:57 -0700
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--=======2F5644E9=======
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This sounds like a simple question but I've always wondered.. I use a 
pencil type glass cutter with the oil in the barrel. Do I loosen the top of 
the cutter to help with the oil flow while cutting or just always keep the 
top screw tightened?? Lorley

--=======2F5644E9=======--

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From owner-glass Fri Sep  7 07:30:59 2001
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From: Lorley Oneyear <lorley@home.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: multipart/mixed; x-avg-checked=avg-ok-5B9379C2; boundary="=======2BA94DA1======="
Subject: jeep
Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2001 20:30:10 -0700
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--=======2BA94DA1=======
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Was going to do a stained glass fish for my significant other and found out 
he wants a SG Jeep instead. Any idea for where to find a pattern? Lorley

--=======2BA94DA1=======--

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From owner-glass Fri Sep  7 10:24:45 2001
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X-Path: stainedglass.co.uk!studio
From: "studio@stainedglass.co.uk" <studio@stainedglass.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: cutter
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2001 11:23:50 +0100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@stainedglass.co.uk>
Precedence: bulk

At 20:31 06/09/01 -0700, Lorley wrote:
>This sounds like a simple question but I've always wondered.. I use a 
>pencil type glass cutter with the oil in the barrel. Do I loosen the top of 
>the cutter to help with the oil flow while cutting or just always keep the 
>top screw tightened?? 

The theory used to be that you loosen the top if you need to increase flow -
but many cutters nowadays have a 'breather' hole and with that you are
supposed to keep the screw cap tightened up.

Many of us have given up on trying to get the flow right and dont put oil in
the handle at all but keep it stored upright in a jar (or the Morton cutter
caddy if you have the board) with a rag soaked in oil at the bottom of it.
Thus each time you replace the cutter you are oiling the wheel.
This is useful if you have to cart your tools about as it means there is no
oil in the handle to leak out all over the box!!

I have heard that some people never use any lubricant at all - but I am not
sure why not.

Regard
EliZabeth
Bournemouth Stained Glass
http://www.stainedglass.co.uk
UK Charter Member RAGS

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From owner-glass Fri Sep  7 11:27:10 2001
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X-Path: home.com!kristc
From: "Kris" <kristc@home.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Re: Moving
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2001 09:36:22 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@mindspring.com>>
Precedence: bulk

We have two shops in Sarasota, about 2 1/2 hours southwest of Orlando if
that is any help. One has a website http://www.glasscrafters.com/  The other
(the Stained Glass Connection) has a growing selection of beautiful art
glass. There is another shop on the east coast in Cocoa that will make you
absolutely weak in the knees (Art Glass House) but unfortunately they only
sell wholesale as far as I know, and you have to have a tax ID number or
whatever it is that proves you are a pro.

You might go to your local library and see if they have a phone book for
Orlando, and look in the yellow pages. Sorry I don't know much of anything
about things over there.

Kris (Sarasota, FL)

> No Ft. Lauderdale is at least 4 hours South of Orlando.
> "studio@stainedglass.co.uk" <studio@stainedglass.co.uk> wrote:
> > At 07:52 05/09/01 -0400, Louise wrote:
>
> >I will be moving to the Orlando area in the couple of months and was
> >wondering if any of you can recomend a good S.G. shop. The better the
glass
> >selection the more I like it.
>
> Is that anywhere near Fort Lauderdale?
> If so go and see Bob and Evelyn Martinez at Glass By Design
> 4200 S University Dr
> Ft. Lauderdale
> Florida (FL) 33328
> Tel(954)723-9433
> glassbydes@aol.com
> http://www.stainedglassbydesign.com
>
> I know them through the retailers association (RAGS) and they seem to have
a
> good range and lots of expertise to offer customers,
>
> Regards
> EliZabeth in Bournemouth (England)
> Bournemouth Stained Glass
> http://www.stainedglass.co.uk
> UK Charter Member RAGS
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

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From owner-glass Fri Sep  7 14:01:16 2001
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	for rglass-42; Fri, 7 Sep 2001 13:38:17 -0700 (PDT)
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X-Path: auto.com!robin
From: "Robin Ellison - Auto And Parts, LLC" <robin@auto.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: orlando shops and link to all us shops
Date: Fri, 07 Sep 2001 16:21:57 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@auto.com>
Organization: Auto and Parts.Com
Precedence: bulk


--------------B7C04CA769D21AD8582DC625
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

http://www.thestorefinder.com/glass/glass_sr.html    this is great!

Visions In Stained Glass
3703 Bayview Drive
Orlando
407-438-5733

 Art Glass & Doors, Inc.
1486 Seminole Blvd. #6
Orlando
 407-699-1987

Glass Addicts ( next city over)
108 S. Park Ave.
Sanford
 407-324-5636

--
********************************************************
Thank You
Robin Ellison
Auto & Parts... http://www.autoandparts.com
1-888-977-1999
Automotive Internet Services that get RESULTS !!
Auto & Parts provides internet solutions exclusively for
the Auto Recycling Industry. Offering used part locating
systems for buying & selling , web site design, hosting
and maintenance at a reasonable cost.
AOL FRIENDLY LINK
<a href="http://autoandparts.com">Auto And Parts</a>


--------------B7C04CA769D21AD8582DC625
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<!doctype html public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en">
<html>
<A HREF="http://www.thestorefinder.com/glass/glass_sr.html">http://www.thestorefinder.com/glass/glass_sr.html</A>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; this
is great!
<p><b>Visions In Stained Glass</b>
<br><b>3703 Bayview Drive</b>
<br><b>Orlando</b>
<br><b>407-438-5733</b>
<br><b>&nbsp;</b>
<br><b>&nbsp;Art Glass &amp; Doors, Inc.</b>
<br><b>1486 Seminole Blvd. #6</b>
<br><b>Orlando</b>
<br><b>&nbsp;407-699-1987</b><b></b>
<p><b>Glass Addicts ( next city over)</b>
<br><b>108 S. Park Ave.</b>
<br><b>Sanford</b>
<br><b>&nbsp;407-324-5636</b>
<p>--
<br>********************************************************
<br>Thank You
<br>Robin Ellison
<br>Auto &amp; Parts... <A HREF="http://www.autoandparts.com">http://www.autoandparts.com</A>
<br>1-888-977-1999
<br>Automotive Internet Services that get RESULTS !!
<br>Auto &amp; Parts provides internet solutions exclusively for
<br>the Auto Recycling Industry. Offering used part locating
<br>systems for buying &amp; selling , web site design, hosting
<br>and maintenance at a reasonable cost.
<br>AOL FRIENDLY LINK
<br>&lt;a href="<A HREF="http://autoandparts.com">http://autoandparts.com</A>">Auto And Parts&lt;/a>
<br>&nbsp;</html>

--------------B7C04CA769D21AD8582DC625--


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From owner-glass Fri Sep  7 14:03:22 2001
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	for rglass-42; Fri, 7 Sep 2001 13:40:26 -0700 (PDT)
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X-Path: auto.com!robin
From: "Robin Ellison - Auto And Parts, LLC" <robin@auto.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: stained glass supplies on-line
Date: Fri, 07 Sep 2001 16:11:30 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@auto.com>
Organization: Auto and Parts.Com
Precedence: bulk

http://www.mcgillsglass.com/
hi,
i ordered lead came from this company at $42.20 a case, with 62 pieces
of 72" came.  thats
68 cents a piece, also great service. they sell to the public at that
price. i was paying 2.00 a
piece at the store near me. i know thats alot of lead came to have but,
i was going to the store
and getting 8 pieces at a time, and i figure it will not go bad. they
have adobe downloadable
catalogs, the prices are awesome. they have it all foil, solder, lamps,
etc.

--
********************************************************
Thank You
Robin Ellison
Auto & Parts... http://www.autoandparts.com
1-888-977-1999
Automotive Internet Services that get RESULTS !!
Auto & Parts provides internet solutions exclusively for
the Auto Recycling Industry. Offering used part locating
systems for buying & selling , web site design, hosting
and maintenance at a reasonable cost.
AOL FRIENDLY LINK
<a href="http://autoandparts.com">Auto And Parts</a>



----
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From owner-glass Fri Sep  7 16:08:53 2001
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X-Path: stratus.com!Charlie.Spitzer
From: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie.Spitzer@stratus.com>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE: stained glass supplies on-line
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2001 14:14:39 -0700 
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@stratus.com>
Precedence: bulk

you can also order lead in spools, around 350' if i recall, for about $90.
you just have to cut and straighten it out for yourself, but that's easy
with a lead stretcher.

regards,
charlie

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Robin Ellison - Auto And Parts, LLC [mailto:robin@auto.com]
> Sent: Friday, September 07, 2001 1:12 PM
> To: glass@bungi.com
> Subject: stained glass supplies on-line
> 
> 
> http://www.mcgillsglass.com/
> hi,
> i ordered lead came from this company at $42.20 a case, with 62 pieces
> of 72" came.  thats
> 68 cents a piece, also great service. they sell to the public at that
> price. i was paying 2.00 a
> piece at the store near me. i know thats alot of lead came to 
> have but,
> i was going to the store
> and getting 8 pieces at a time, and i figure it will not go bad. they
> have adobe downloadable
> catalogs, the prices are awesome. they have it all foil, 
> solder, lamps,
> etc.
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From owner-glass Sat Sep  8 04:01:46 2001
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From: UserDusty@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_16e.874697.28cb4bf6_boundary"
Subject: Re: Jeep
Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2001 06:24:54 EDT
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>
Precedence: bulk


--part1_16e.874697.28cb4bf6_boundary
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Hi all,

That's a tuff one.  Sometimes if I need a pattern and can't find one I'll 
scan a picture of the item from a magazine then in my printer software tell 
it to print in coloring book format.  It will print the outline.  Another way 
is to find the item again in a magazine make a photocopy of it. Then take 
some framing glass and a felt tip and tape the picture to the glass and start 
tracing the lines.  I'm no artist but I try to use my head.  If I make a 
mistake, just a little Windex on a paper towel and It's gone.  After I have 
my lines the way I want them.  I remove the picture and mount a piece of 
plain white paper to the back of the glass and make a copy of the pattern.  I 
did a stone of a dog this way.  If your interested I can email a picture of 
the final product.

Have a good one,

Ken Osborne
Decorative Glass

--part1_16e.874697.28cb4bf6_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>Hi all,
<BR>
<BR>That's a tuff one. &nbsp;Sometimes if I need a pattern and can't find one I'll 
<BR>scan a picture of the item from a magazine then in my printer software tell 
<BR>it to print in coloring book format. &nbsp;It will print the outline. &nbsp;Another way 
<BR>is to find the item again in a magazine make a photocopy of it. Then take 
<BR>some framing glass and a felt tip and tape the picture to the glass and start 
<BR>tracing the lines. &nbsp;I'm no artist but I try to use my head. &nbsp;If I make a 
<BR>mistake, just a little Windex on a paper towel and It's gone. &nbsp;After I have 
<BR>my lines the way I want them. &nbsp;I remove the picture and mount a piece of 
<BR>plain white paper to the back of the glass and make a copy of the pattern. &nbsp;I 
<BR>did a stone of a dog this way. &nbsp;If your interested I can email a picture of 
<BR>the final product.
<BR>
<BR>Have a good one,
<BR>
<BR>Ken Osborne
<BR>Decorative Glass</FONT></HTML>

--part1_16e.874697.28cb4bf6_boundary--
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From owner-glass Sat Sep  8 06:31:52 2001
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X-Path: yahoo.com!francisikem
From: francis ikem <francisikem@yahoo.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Confidential
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2001 21:27:45 -0700 (PDT)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>
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           TOPMOST URGENT AND CONFIDENTIAL
                                                      
         
DR.BEN EDO                              07/09/2001
LAGOS-NIGERIA
ATT:   THE PRESIDENT/CEO 


REF: REQUEST FOR URGENT BUSINESS EXECUTION.


AFTER THOROUGH INVESTIGATION AT THE FOREIGN OFFICE OF
NIGERIA CHAMBER OF 
COMMERCE, WE WRITE WITH ABSOLUTE CONFIDENCE IN THE
LEGALITY OF YOUR COMPANY  AND 


THE INTERGRITY OF YOUR PERSON ESSENTIALLY THE BUSINESS
WE ARE ABOUT TO COMMENCE 
IS FUNDAMENTALLY BASED ON SHEER TRUST AND SENSE OF
PURPOSE.  

FOR SUCCINT INTRODUCTION, WE ARE MEMBERS OF THE
CONTRACT REVIEWING PANEL
(CRP) OF THE FEDERAL CAPITAL TERRITORY (FCT) ABUJA,
THE SETTING UP OF OUR 
COMMITTEE WAS NECESSITATED BY THE FLAWS AND BLATANT
ABUSE OF THE LAST MILITARY 
REGIME WHICH AWARDED CONTRACTS AT INCREDIBLY INFLATED
COST .
TENACIOUS EFFORTS AND WELL EXPENDED ENERGY AND
EXPENCE, WE WERE ABLE TO RECTIFY 
THESE FLAWS AND TO PAY THE CONTRACTORS THEIR RIGHTLY
DUES AT THE END OF THEIR 
ARDIOUS EXERCISE A SUM OF US$25.5M(TWENTY FIVE
MILLION.FIVE HUNDRED THOUSAND 
UNITED STATE DOLLARS ONLY) WAS LEFT IN SUSENSE ACCOUNT
AT THE CENTRAL BANK OF 
NIGERIAL(CBN) DUE TO THE INITIAL INFLATED COST BASED
ON CONTRACT NO:FGN 
/NNPC/LNG-PED1025-97 FUND SECURITY NO:CBN000CC38.

HOWEVER, THE CHECKED POLITICAL TRANSITION IN THE
COUNTRY HAS DIVERTED ATTENTION 
FROM THE COMMITTEE UNANIMOUSLY RESOLVED THAT THE ABOVE
MENTIONED SUM BE 
DISBURSED AMONG MEMBERS EQUITABLY.

THIS PRECISELY IS WHY WE NEED YOUR ASSISTANCE SINCE
THIS MONEY HAS TO BE PAID 
INTO A FOREIGN ACCOUNT FROM THE C.B.N WE SOLICIT YOUR
ASSISTANCE WITH AN 
UNFLINCHING FAITH THAT YOU WOULD NOT BETRAY US.

SHARE: WITH YOUR ABILITY IN THE TRANSACTION, YOU ARE
ENTITLED TO 25%, I AND MY 
COLLEAGUE WILL HAVE 70%, WHILE THE REMAINING 5% IS TO
TAKE PART DURING THE 
COURSE OF THE TRANSACTION.

MODUS OPERANDUM: TO ENABLE US PUT CLAIMS AND INVOICE
FOR THE PAYMENT INTO
YOUR ACCOUNT, REQUIRE THE FOLLOWING ITEMS BY EMAIL.

(1)  YOUR BANK PARTICULARS (NAME, ADDRESS, FAX
&ACCOUNT NUMBER OF YOUR BANK)
(2)YOUR PRIVATE PHONE AND FAX NUMBER TO REACH YOU
DURING AND AFTER    BUSINESS 
HOURS.

THIS INFORMATION WILL BE USED FOR JOB DESCRIPTION AND
FOLLOW UP LETTERS OF 
CLAIMS THROUGH NIGERIA NATIONAL PETROLEUM
CORPORATION(NNPC), IT WILL INTEREST 
YOU TO NOTE THAT THE TRANSFER WILL COMMENCE AND
COMPLETED WITH SEVEN (7) BANK 
WORKING DAYS FROM THE DAY WE RECEIVE THE ABOVE
MENTIONED INFORMATIONS.

PLEASE TREAT THIS MATTER WITH UTMOST AND
CONFIDENTIALITY AS WE LOOK FORWARD TO 
YOUR QUICK RESPOND.

YOUR  SINCERELY,

DR.BEN EDO





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From owner-glass Sat Sep  8 06:42:53 2001
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From: francis ikem <francisikem@yahoo.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Confidential
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2001 21:29:52 -0700 (PDT)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>
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           TOPMOST URGENT AND CONFIDENTIAL
                                                      
         
DR.BEN EDO                              07/09/2001
LAGOS-NIGERIA
ATT:   THE PRESIDENT/CEO 


REF: REQUEST FOR URGENT BUSINESS EXECUTION.


AFTER THOROUGH INVESTIGATION AT THE FOREIGN OFFICE OF
NIGERIA CHAMBER OF 
COMMERCE, WE WRITE WITH ABSOLUTE CONFIDENCE IN THE
LEGALITY OF YOUR COMPANY  AND 


THE INTERGRITY OF YOUR PERSON ESSENTIALLY THE BUSINESS
WE ARE ABOUT TO COMMENCE 
IS FUNDAMENTALLY BASED ON SHEER TRUST AND SENSE OF
PURPOSE.  

FOR SUCCINT INTRODUCTION, WE ARE MEMBERS OF THE
CONTRACT REVIEWING PANEL
(CRP) OF THE FEDERAL CAPITAL TERRITORY (FCT) ABUJA,
THE SETTING UP OF OUR 
COMMITTEE WAS NECESSITATED BY THE FLAWS AND BLATANT
ABUSE OF THE LAST MILITARY 
REGIME WHICH AWARDED CONTRACTS AT INCREDIBLY INFLATED
COST .
TENACIOUS EFFORTS AND WELL EXPENDED ENERGY AND
EXPENCE, WE WERE ABLE TO RECTIFY 
THESE FLAWS AND TO PAY THE CONTRACTORS THEIR RIGHTLY
DUES AT THE END OF THEIR 
ARDIOUS EXERCISE A SUM OF US$25.5M(TWENTY FIVE
MILLION.FIVE HUNDRED THOUSAND 
UNITED STATE DOLLARS ONLY) WAS LEFT IN SUSENSE ACCOUNT
AT THE CENTRAL BANK OF 
NIGERIAL(CBN) DUE TO THE INITIAL INFLATED COST BASED
ON CONTRACT NO:FGN 
/NNPC/LNG-PED1025-97 FUND SECURITY NO:CBN000CC38.

HOWEVER, THE CHECKED POLITICAL TRANSITION IN THE
COUNTRY HAS DIVERTED ATTENTION 
FROM THE COMMITTEE UNANIMOUSLY RESOLVED THAT THE ABOVE
MENTIONED SUM BE 
DISBURSED AMONG MEMBERS EQUITABLY.

THIS PRECISELY IS WHY WE NEED YOUR ASSISTANCE SINCE
THIS MONEY HAS TO BE PAID 
INTO A FOREIGN ACCOUNT FROM THE C.B.N WE SOLICIT YOUR
ASSISTANCE WITH AN 
UNFLINCHING FAITH THAT YOU WOULD NOT BETRAY US.

SHARE: WITH YOUR ABILITY IN THE TRANSACTION, YOU ARE
ENTITLED TO 25%, I AND MY 
COLLEAGUE WILL HAVE 70%, WHILE THE REMAINING 5% IS TO
TAKE PART DURING THE 
COURSE OF THE TRANSACTION.

MODUS OPERANDUM: TO ENABLE US PUT CLAIMS AND INVOICE
FOR THE PAYMENT INTO
YOUR ACCOUNT, REQUIRE THE FOLLOWING ITEMS BY EMAIL.

(1)  YOUR BANK PARTICULARS (NAME, ADDRESS, FAX
&ACCOUNT NUMBER OF YOUR BANK)
(2)YOUR PRIVATE PHONE AND FAX NUMBER TO REACH YOU
DURING AND AFTER    BUSINESS 
HOURS.

THIS INFORMATION WILL BE USED FOR JOB DESCRIPTION AND
FOLLOW UP LETTERS OF 
CLAIMS THROUGH NIGERIA NATIONAL PETROLEUM
CORPORATION(NNPC), IT WILL INTEREST 
YOU TO NOTE THAT THE TRANSFER WILL COMMENCE AND
COMPLETED WITH SEVEN (7) BANK 
WORKING DAYS FROM THE DAY WE RECEIVE THE ABOVE
MENTIONED INFORMATIONS.

PLEASE TREAT THIS MATTER WITH UTMOST AND
CONFIDENTIALITY AS WE LOOK FORWARD TO 
YOUR QUICK RESPOND.

YOUR  SINCERELY,

DR.BEN EDO





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From owner-glass Sat Sep  8 07:06:41 2001
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From: "Thor" <thor@stny.rr.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: Gatewayed mail message
Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2001 10:00:06 -0400
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0127_01C1384D.096907C0
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    ie...       TOPMOST URGENT AND CONFIDENTIAL
                                                     =20
         I dont think thats an appropriate post to this list
just My humble opinion
James


------=_NextPart_000_0127_01C1384D.096907C0
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2919.6307" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial=20
size=3D4>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;ie...&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp=
; TOPMOST=20
URGENT AND=20
CONFIDENTIAL<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nb=
sp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbs=
p;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp=
;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nb=
sp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
I dont think thats an appropriate post to this list</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D4>just My humble opinion</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D4>James<BR></DIV></FONT></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0127_01C1384D.096907C0--

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From owner-glass Sat Sep  8 08:20:04 2001
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X-Path: quixnet.net!carolmac
From: "Carol McEvoy" <carolmac@quixnet.net>
To: "francis ikem" <francisikem@yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Confidential
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2001 21:32:36 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@quixnet.net>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Do not send me any thing like this again.  This is not what glass@bungi.com
should be used for.  I do not appreciate your messages.
----- Original Message -----
From: "francis ikem" <francisikem@yahoo.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 08, 2001 12:27 AM
Subject: Confidential


>            TOPMOST URGENT AND CONFIDENTIAL
>
>
> DR.BEN EDO                              07/09/2001
> LAGOS-NIGERIA
> ATT:   THE PRESIDENT/CEO
>
>
> REF: REQUEST FOR URGENT BUSINESS EXECUTION.
>
>
> AFTER THOROUGH INVESTIGATION AT THE FOREIGN OFFICE OF
> NIGERIA CHAMBER OF
> COMMERCE, WE WRITE WITH ABSOLUTE CONFIDENCE IN THE
> LEGALITY OF YOUR COMPANY  AND
>
>
> THE INTERGRITY OF YOUR PERSON ESSENTIALLY THE BUSINESS
> WE ARE ABOUT TO COMMENCE
> IS FUNDAMENTALLY BASED ON SHEER TRUST AND SENSE OF
> PURPOSE.
>
> FOR SUCCINT INTRODUCTION, WE ARE MEMBERS OF THE
> CONTRACT REVIEWING PANEL
> (CRP) OF THE FEDERAL CAPITAL TERRITORY (FCT) ABUJA,
> THE SETTING UP OF OUR
> COMMITTEE WAS NECESSITATED BY THE FLAWS AND BLATANT
> ABUSE OF THE LAST MILITARY
> REGIME WHICH AWARDED CONTRACTS AT INCREDIBLY INFLATED
> COST .
> TENACIOUS EFFORTS AND WELL EXPENDED ENERGY AND
> EXPENCE, WE WERE ABLE TO RECTIFY
> THESE FLAWS AND TO PAY THE CONTRACTORS THEIR RIGHTLY
> DUES AT THE END OF THEIR
> ARDIOUS EXERCISE A SUM OF US$25.5M(TWENTY FIVE
> MILLION.FIVE HUNDRED THOUSAND
> UNITED STATE DOLLARS ONLY) WAS LEFT IN SUSENSE ACCOUNT
> AT THE CENTRAL BANK OF
> NIGERIAL(CBN) DUE TO THE INITIAL INFLATED COST BASED
> ON CONTRACT NO:FGN
> /NNPC/LNG-PED1025-97 FUND SECURITY NO:CBN000CC38.
>
> HOWEVER, THE CHECKED POLITICAL TRANSITION IN THE
> COUNTRY HAS DIVERTED ATTENTION
> FROM THE COMMITTEE UNANIMOUSLY RESOLVED THAT THE ABOVE
> MENTIONED SUM BE
> DISBURSED AMONG MEMBERS EQUITABLY.
>
> THIS PRECISELY IS WHY WE NEED YOUR ASSISTANCE SINCE
> THIS MONEY HAS TO BE PAID
> INTO A FOREIGN ACCOUNT FROM THE C.B.N WE SOLICIT YOUR
> ASSISTANCE WITH AN
> UNFLINCHING FAITH THAT YOU WOULD NOT BETRAY US.
>
> SHARE: WITH YOUR ABILITY IN THE TRANSACTION, YOU ARE
> ENTITLED TO 25%, I AND MY
> COLLEAGUE WILL HAVE 70%, WHILE THE REMAINING 5% IS TO
> TAKE PART DURING THE
> COURSE OF THE TRANSACTION.
>
> MODUS OPERANDUM: TO ENABLE US PUT CLAIMS AND INVOICE
> FOR THE PAYMENT INTO
> YOUR ACCOUNT, REQUIRE THE FOLLOWING ITEMS BY EMAIL.
>
> (1)  YOUR BANK PARTICULARS (NAME, ADDRESS, FAX
> &ACCOUNT NUMBER OF YOUR BANK)
> (2)YOUR PRIVATE PHONE AND FAX NUMBER TO REACH YOU
> DURING AND AFTER    BUSINESS
> HOURS.
>
> THIS INFORMATION WILL BE USED FOR JOB DESCRIPTION AND
> FOLLOW UP LETTERS OF
> CLAIMS THROUGH NIGERIA NATIONAL PETROLEUM
> CORPORATION(NNPC), IT WILL INTEREST
> YOU TO NOTE THAT THE TRANSFER WILL COMMENCE AND
> COMPLETED WITH SEVEN (7) BANK
> WORKING DAYS FROM THE DAY WE RECEIVE THE ABOVE
> MENTIONED INFORMATIONS.
>
> PLEASE TREAT THIS MATTER WITH UTMOST AND
> CONFIDENTIALITY AS WE LOOK FORWARD TO
> YOUR QUICK RESPOND.
>
> YOUR  SINCERELY,
>
> DR.BEN EDO
>
>
>
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Get email alerts & NEW webcam video instant messaging with Yahoo!
Messenger
> http://im.yahoo.com
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>

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From owner-glass Sat Sep  8 08:32:30 2001
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X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: jeep
Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2001 10:19:54 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com>
Precedence: bulk

Message text written by Lorley Oneyear
>Was going to do a stained glass fish for my significant other and found
out =

he wants a SG Jeep instead. Any idea for where to find a pattern? Lorley<=


Go to a Jeep dealership and ask for one of their color sales brochures on=

the Jeep your S.O. wants.  They will be more than happy to part with a
brochure to a happy client.  Then use the brochure for making your patter=
n.

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
Denton, TX
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From owner-glass Sat Sep  8 13:29:43 2001
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From: UserDusty@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_17.1b3c70af.28cbc21e_boundary"
Subject: Re: Jeep
Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2001 14:49:02 EDT
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>
Precedence: bulk


--part1_17.1b3c70af.28cbc21e_boundary
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Hi Debbie,

I'm using an Epson Stylus 500 and that feature is in the printer software.  
Maybe check your printer manual and see if your printer has that feature. Let 
me know what kind of printer you have besides my Epson I have access to 
Lexmark and HP.  I might be able to help.

Have a good one,

Ken O.  



--part1_17.1b3c70af.28cbc21e_boundary
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>Hi Debbie,
<BR>
<BR>I'm using an Epson Stylus 500 and that feature is in the printer software. &nbsp;
<BR>Maybe check your printer manual and see if your printer has that feature. Let 
<BR>me know what kind of printer you have besides my Epson I have access to 
<BR>Lexmark and HP. &nbsp;I might be able to help.
<BR>
<BR>Have a good one,
<BR>
<BR>Ken O. &nbsp;
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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From owner-glass Sat Sep  8 15:36:00 2001
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X-Path: stainedglass.co.uk!studio
From: "studio@stainedglass.co.uk" <studio@stainedglass.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Confidential
Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2001 19:11:30 +0100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@stainedglass.co.uk>
Precedence: bulk

Several members have been upset by the nigerian Spam message that slipped
through on to bungi - but all you need to do is trash the message and ignore it.
This is a con-trick that we receive several times a year from many different
email addresses - they change it all the time, so there is no way of
blocking htem from the list!
Ten years ago they used to send them by post to business addresses culled
from international business directories, then by fax from similar sources,
and for the last couple of years they obvoiusly just send them to any email
addresses they find on the net.
We used to pass their letters and faxes to the police for the fraud squad to
deal with, but on the net you cant really do anything about it except report
them to their isp (abuse@whatevertheisp.com)
We got a few responses saying the isp could not trace them as clients so now
just put the letters into the trash bin!
Just dont make the mistake of letting them have your bank account details!!
That is what they are after - then they overdraw your account and you are
left with unrecoverable debts!!
Regards
EliZabeth in Bournemouth

Bournemouth Stained Glass
http://www.stainedglass.co.uk

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From owner-glass Sat Sep  8 16:37:13 2001
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	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: legal.com!0032224
From: glass@bungi.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="DEFAULT"
Subject: Your Ad Time:12:22:45 PM
Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2001 12:22:45
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@bungi.com>
Precedence: bulk

Hi,

I noticed your well done ad in classifieds. As a PPL
associate I'd like to introduce myself and maybe 
compare notes.

If you'd like to do so please email me at 

info@free-law-central.com 

Meanwhile check out my site that I and many other 
associates are using to gain a large volume of names 
due to the SEM system and popup windows that follow 
the visitor as he navigates the normal PPL site.  Here's
some URLs to check out...

Home page w/popup
http://www.free-law-central.com

Associate recruiting page
http://www.free-law-central.com/associate_lead.htm

Focus advertising page
http://www.free-law-central.com/free_will.htm

Our associate's support site
http://www.officialinfo.net


To your success

J.R. Orsoni
954-566-5175
P.S. If you ever want to chat live 
go to:  http://www.free-law-central.com/associate_talk.htm
8/9/01
----
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From owner-glass Sat Sep  8 16:46:45 2001
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	for rglass-42; Sat, 8 Sep 2001 16:36:34 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: legal.com!0032224
From: glass@bungi.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="DEFAULT"
Subject: Your Ad Time:11:27:17 AM
Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2001 11:27:17
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@bungi.com>
Precedence: bulk

Hi,

I noticed your well done ad in classifieds. As a PPL
associate I'd like to introduce myself and maybe 
compare notes.

If you'd like to do so please email me at 

info@free-law-central.com 

Meanwhile check out my site that I and many other 
associates are using to gain a large volume of names 
due to the SEM system and popup windows that follow 
the visitor as he navigates the normal PPL site.  Here's
some URLs to check out...

Home page w/popup
http://www.free-law-central.com

Associate recruiting page
http://www.free-law-central.com/associate_lead.htm

Focus advertising page
http://www.free-law-central.com/free_will.htm

Our associate's support site
http://www.officialinfo.net


To your success

J.R. Orsoni
954-566-5175
P.S. If you ever want to chat live 
go to:  http://www.free-law-central.com/associate_talk.htm
8/9/01
----
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From owner-glass Sat Sep  8 17:33:08 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
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	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: aol.com!UserDusty
From: UserDusty@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_c8.1a5792ae.28cc0c7d_boundary"
Subject: Re: Your Ad Time:11:27:17 AM
Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2001 20:06:21 EDT
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>
Precedence: bulk


--part1_c8.1a5792ae.28cc0c7d_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Hi,

Please remove me from your list

--part1_c8.1a5792ae.28cc0c7d_boundary
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>Hi,
<BR>
<BR>Please remove me from your list</FONT></HTML>

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----
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From owner-glass Sat Sep  8 19:34:52 2001
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Received: by daver.bungi.com
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	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: mindspring.com!sonyaamt
From: "Sonya Amt" <sonyaamt@mindspring.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE: Confidential
Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2001 11:35:12 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@mindspring.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@quixnet.net>>
Precedence: bulk

Do you not understand that bungi cannot control everything that is posted
and this message is probably from a non-bungi member?  Just take it with a
grain of salt.


-----Original Message-----
From: Carol McEvoy [mailto:carolmac@quixnet.net]
Sent: Friday, September 07, 2001 9:33 PM
To: francis ikem
Subject: Re: Confidential


Do not send me any thing like this again.  This is not what glass@bungi.com
should be used for.  I do not appreciate your messages.
----- Original Message -----
From: "francis ikem" <francisikem@yahoo.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 08, 2001 12:27 AM
Subject: Confidential


>            TOPMOST URGENT AND CONFIDENTIAL
>
>
> DR.BEN EDO                              07/09/2001
> LAGOS-NIGERIA
> ATT:   THE PRESIDENT/CEO
>
>
> REF: REQUEST FOR URGENT BUSINESS EXECUTION.
>
>
> AFTER THOROUGH INVESTIGATION AT THE FOREIGN OFFICE OF
> NIGERIA CHAMBER OF
> COMMERCE, WE WRITE WITH ABSOLUTE CONFIDENCE IN THE
> LEGALITY OF YOUR COMPANY  AND
>
>
> THE INTERGRITY OF YOUR PERSON ESSENTIALLY THE BUSINESS
> WE ARE ABOUT TO COMMENCE
> IS FUNDAMENTALLY BASED ON SHEER TRUST AND SENSE OF
> PURPOSE.
>
> FOR SUCCINT INTRODUCTION, WE ARE MEMBERS OF THE
> CONTRACT REVIEWING PANEL
> (CRP) OF THE FEDERAL CAPITAL TERRITORY (FCT) ABUJA,
> THE SETTING UP OF OUR
> COMMITTEE WAS NECESSITATED BY THE FLAWS AND BLATANT
> ABUSE OF THE LAST MILITARY
> REGIME WHICH AWARDED CONTRACTS AT INCREDIBLY INFLATED
> COST .
> TENACIOUS EFFORTS AND WELL EXPENDED ENERGY AND
> EXPENCE, WE WERE ABLE TO RECTIFY
> THESE FLAWS AND TO PAY THE CONTRACTORS THEIR RIGHTLY
> DUES AT THE END OF THEIR
> ARDIOUS EXERCISE A SUM OF US$25.5M(TWENTY FIVE
> MILLION.FIVE HUNDRED THOUSAND
> UNITED STATE DOLLARS ONLY) WAS LEFT IN SUSENSE ACCOUNT
> AT THE CENTRAL BANK OF
> NIGERIAL(CBN) DUE TO THE INITIAL INFLATED COST BASED
> ON CONTRACT NO:FGN
> /NNPC/LNG-PED1025-97 FUND SECURITY NO:CBN000CC38.
>
> HOWEVER, THE CHECKED POLITICAL TRANSITION IN THE
> COUNTRY HAS DIVERTED ATTENTION
> FROM THE COMMITTEE UNANIMOUSLY RESOLVED THAT THE ABOVE
> MENTIONED SUM BE
> DISBURSED AMONG MEMBERS EQUITABLY.
>
> THIS PRECISELY IS WHY WE NEED YOUR ASSISTANCE SINCE
> THIS MONEY HAS TO BE PAID
> INTO A FOREIGN ACCOUNT FROM THE C.B.N WE SOLICIT YOUR
> ASSISTANCE WITH AN
> UNFLINCHING FAITH THAT YOU WOULD NOT BETRAY US.
>
> SHARE: WITH YOUR ABILITY IN THE TRANSACTION, YOU ARE
> ENTITLED TO 25%, I AND MY
> COLLEAGUE WILL HAVE 70%, WHILE THE REMAINING 5% IS TO
> TAKE PART DURING THE
> COURSE OF THE TRANSACTION.
>
> MODUS OPERANDUM: TO ENABLE US PUT CLAIMS AND INVOICE
> FOR THE PAYMENT INTO
> YOUR ACCOUNT, REQUIRE THE FOLLOWING ITEMS BY EMAIL.
>
> (1)  YOUR BANK PARTICULARS (NAME, ADDRESS, FAX
> &ACCOUNT NUMBER OF YOUR BANK)
> (2)YOUR PRIVATE PHONE AND FAX NUMBER TO REACH YOU
> DURING AND AFTER    BUSINESS
> HOURS.
>
> THIS INFORMATION WILL BE USED FOR JOB DESCRIPTION AND
> FOLLOW UP LETTERS OF
> CLAIMS THROUGH NIGERIA NATIONAL PETROLEUM
> CORPORATION(NNPC), IT WILL INTEREST
> YOU TO NOTE THAT THE TRANSFER WILL COMMENCE AND
> COMPLETED WITH SEVEN (7) BANK
> WORKING DAYS FROM THE DAY WE RECEIVE THE ABOVE
> MENTIONED INFORMATIONS.
>
> PLEASE TREAT THIS MATTER WITH UTMOST AND
> CONFIDENTIALITY AS WE LOOK FORWARD TO
> YOUR QUICK RESPOND.
>
> YOUR  SINCERELY,
>
> DR.BEN EDO
>
>
>
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Get email alerts & NEW webcam video instant messaging with Yahoo!
Messenger
> http://im.yahoo.com
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>

----
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Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

----
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From owner-glass Sat Sep  8 21:35:53 2001
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	for rglass-42; Sat, 8 Sep 2001 21:27:11 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: metrolink.net!mookie
From: Chris Campbell <mookie@metrolink.net>
To: UserDusty@aol.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Your Ad Time:11:27:17 AM
Date: Sat, 08 Sep 2001 23:40:41 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@metrolink.net>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Please remove my name from your list

----
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From owner-glass Sat Sep  8 22:06:59 2001
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	for rglass-42; Sat, 8 Sep 2001 21:56:16 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: home.com!gunnx4
From: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@home.com>
To: Chris Campbell <mookie@metrolink.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Your Ad Time:11:27:17 AM
Date: Sat, 08 Sep 2001 23:52:24 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@metrolink.net>>
Organization: glassdancer
Precedence: bulk

If you are requesting to be taken off bungi please note:

For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com

If you are asking the spammer to take you off your list, you are only
confirming  your email address to them.

Suzanne
----
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From owner-glass Sat Sep  8 23:31:42 2001
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X-Path: cybernex.net!tonyk
From: "Tony K" <tonyk@cybernex.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Spam
Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2001 19:53:03 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@cybernex.net>
Precedence: bulk

Hi all,
	I can't see why people get so upset about spam. It's almost impossible to
filter out 100% and I think that Bungi does a great job of eliminating most
of the nonsense but some will get through. If it does use your delete
button. Bungi had been a great resource to me and if something like this
occasionally come through (Nigerian oil scam), then it is a small price to
pay. JMHO.


----
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From owner-glass Sun Sep  9 11:00:30 2001
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	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: juno.com!pkinnetz
From: Peggy L Kinnetz <pkinnetz@juno.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: recipe for lead soap
Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2001 23:31:14 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@juno.com>
Precedence: bulk

Could the person ( My delete finger was too fast for my eye to catch the
name) who sent the recipe (I assume it was a recipe) please send it again
in plain text-- all I got was a blank screen. My appreciation and thanks
in advance. . . . 

 Peggy K.
----
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From owner-glass Sun Sep  9 12:36:04 2001
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	for rglass-42; Sun, 9 Sep 2001 12:06:19 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: home.com!cecnralph
From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Subject: Re: Confidential (NG)
Date: Sun, 09 Sep 2001 11:51:33 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@mindspring.com>>
Organization: Grendel Studio
Precedence: bulk

This maybe needs to be reiterated:  This is not just spam - broadcast
advertising via the internet.  This is an actual scam - someone out to take
money from the gullible (in this case the greedy gullible), who get nothing in
return except maybe a little wiser and a little poorer.  And, as noted earlier
this one started out long before the internet, doing it in person, and by post
office.  This one is known as The Nigerian Scam,  It is rather interesting to
watch the tiny details change as it comes and comes and comes.

This is an outright fraud - there is no underlying non-profit organization
which gets some minimal benefit, the way some of the religious, orphanage,
disease of the month type of appeals scams are organized, where the majority
of the money goes to the money raising people with a miniscule amount going to
a so-called non-profit organization.

An interesting thing about fraud and scams.  The people most apt to be taken
in are the young and the old, the naive and the greedy.  Research has shown
that one of the last developmental skills in children to young adults is a
sense of consequence, and when mental impairment begins as people get older,
one of the first things to go is the ability to choose wisely.  You've all
seen that - the little old couple in the grocery store and one of them says
"Lets get this." and the other says "You don't like that - you've never liked
that". - Cec

Sonya Amt wrote:

> Do you not understand that bungi cannot control everything that is posted
> and this message is probably from a non-bungi member?  Just take it with a
> grain of salt.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Carol McEvoy [mailto:carolmac@quixnet.net]
> Sent: Friday, September 07, 2001 9:33 PM
> To: francis ikem
> Subject: Re: Confidential
>
> Do not send me any thing like this again.  This is not what glass@bungi.com
> should be used for.  I do not appreciate your messages.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "francis ikem" <francisikem@yahoo.com>
> To: <glass@bungi.com>
> Sent: Saturday, September 08, 2001 12:27 AM
> Subject: Confidential
>
> >            TOPMOST URGENT AND CONFIDENTIAL
> >
> >
> > DR.BEN EDO                              07/09/2001
> > LAGOS-NIGERIA
> > ATT:   THE PRESIDENT/CEO
> >
> >
> > REF: REQUEST FOR URGENT BUSINESS EXECUTION.
> >
> >
> > AFTER THOROUGH INVESTIGATION AT THE FOREIGN OFFICE OF
> > NIGERIA CHAMBER OF
> > COMMERCE, WE WRITE WITH ABSOLUTE CONFIDENCE IN THE
> > LEGALITY OF YOUR COMPANY  AND
> >
> >
> > THE INTERGRITY OF YOUR PERSON ESSENTIALLY THE BUSINESS
> > WE ARE ABOUT TO COMMENCE
> > IS FUNDAMENTALLY BASED ON SHEER TRUST AND SENSE OF
> > PURPOSE.
> >
> > FOR SUCCINT INTRODUCTION, WE ARE MEMBERS OF THE
> > CONTRACT REVIEWING PANEL
> > (CRP) OF THE FEDERAL CAPITAL TERRITORY (FCT) ABUJA,
> > THE SETTING UP OF OUR
> > COMMITTEE WAS NECESSITATED BY THE FLAWS AND BLATANT
> > ABUSE OF THE LAST MILITARY
> > REGIME WHICH AWARDED CONTRACTS AT INCREDIBLY INFLATED
> > COST .
> > TENACIOUS EFFORTS AND WELL EXPENDED ENERGY AND
> > EXPENCE, WE WERE ABLE TO RECTIFY
> > THESE FLAWS AND TO PAY THE CONTRACTORS THEIR RIGHTLY
> > DUES AT THE END OF THEIR
> > ARDIOUS EXERCISE A SUM OF US$25.5M(TWENTY FIVE
> > MILLION.FIVE HUNDRED THOUSAND
> > UNITED STATE DOLLARS ONLY) WAS LEFT IN SUSENSE ACCOUNT
> > AT THE CENTRAL BANK OF
> > NIGERIAL(CBN) DUE TO THE INITIAL INFLATED COST BASED
> > ON CONTRACT NO:FGN
> > /NNPC/LNG-PED1025-97 FUND SECURITY NO:CBN000CC38.
> >
> > HOWEVER, THE CHECKED POLITICAL TRANSITION IN THE
> > COUNTRY HAS DIVERTED ATTENTION
> > FROM THE COMMITTEE UNANIMOUSLY RESOLVED THAT THE ABOVE
> > MENTIONED SUM BE
> > DISBURSED AMONG MEMBERS EQUITABLY.
> >
> > THIS PRECISELY IS WHY WE NEED YOUR ASSISTANCE SINCE
> > THIS MONEY HAS TO BE PAID
> > INTO A FOREIGN ACCOUNT FROM THE C.B.N WE SOLICIT YOUR
> > ASSISTANCE WITH AN
> > UNFLINCHING FAITH THAT YOU WOULD NOT BETRAY US.
> >
> > SHARE: WITH YOUR ABILITY IN THE TRANSACTION, YOU ARE
> > ENTITLED TO 25%, I AND MY
> > COLLEAGUE WILL HAVE 70%, WHILE THE REMAINING 5% IS TO
> > TAKE PART DURING THE
> > COURSE OF THE TRANSACTION.
> >
> > MODUS OPERANDUM: TO ENABLE US PUT CLAIMS AND INVOICE
> > FOR THE PAYMENT INTO
> > YOUR ACCOUNT, REQUIRE THE FOLLOWING ITEMS BY EMAIL.
> >
> > (1)  YOUR BANK PARTICULARS (NAME, ADDRESS, FAX
> > &ACCOUNT NUMBER OF YOUR BANK)
> > (2)YOUR PRIVATE PHONE AND FAX NUMBER TO REACH YOU
> > DURING AND AFTER    BUSINESS
> > HOURS.
> >
> > THIS INFORMATION WILL BE USED FOR JOB DESCRIPTION AND
> > FOLLOW UP LETTERS OF
> > CLAIMS THROUGH NIGERIA NATIONAL PETROLEUM
> > CORPORATION(NNPC), IT WILL INTEREST
> > YOU TO NOTE THAT THE TRANSFER WILL COMMENCE AND
> > COMPLETED WITH SEVEN (7) BANK
> > WORKING DAYS FROM THE DAY WE RECEIVE THE ABOVE
> > MENTIONED INFORMATIONS.
> >
> > PLEASE TREAT THIS MATTER WITH UTMOST AND
> > CONFIDENTIALITY AS WE LOOK FORWARD TO
> > YOUR QUICK RESPOND.
> >
> > YOUR  SINCERELY,
> >
> > DR.BEN EDO
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > __________________________________________________
> > Do You Yahoo!?
> > Get email alerts & NEW webcam video instant messaging with Yahoo!
> Messenger
> > http://im.yahoo.com
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> >
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

----
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From owner-glass Sun Sep  9 14:38:53 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
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	for rglass-42; Sun, 9 Sep 2001 14:21:29 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: psouth.net!mail
From: mail <mail@psouth.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Virus / harmful content found in EMail
Date: Sun, 09 Sep 2001 16:23:44 -0400
Message-ID: <E15gB7I-0004jx-00@eland.psouth.net>
Precedence: bulk

An EMail directed to you, with subject 'Snowhite and the Seven Dwarfs - The REAL story!',
from <>, contained a virus or other harmful content.
Do NOT reply to this e-mail.
Contact the original sender of the message (mailto:<>) to resolve this issue.

-- 
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From owner-glass Mon Sep 10 15:09:55 2001
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X-Path: auto.com!robin
From: "Robin Ellison - Auto And Parts, LLC" <robin@auto.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Subject: lead soap recipe
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 09:47:34 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@auto.com>
Organization: Auto and Parts.Com
Precedence: bulk

Cleaning Procedures to Reduce Lead Dust in Your House

Because ordinary vacuuming or sweeping spreads lead dust, always clean
up dust and paint chips with wet mops or rags.
Sponge mops work better than rag or
     string mops. When sweeping, drag dust with a damp broom.
     Clean surfaces such as window sills and wells by wiping with a wet
rag wrung from a warm water solution containing 1/4 cup
of a high phosphate cleaner (such as
     trisodium phosphate, (check label for at least 6 percent phosphate
content) available through hardware or paint stores) or an
automatic dishwasher detergent with
     phosphate content above 6 percent (such as AllÆ, CascadeÆ,
ElectrasolÆ and SunlightÆ) to one gallon water.To avoid
possible skin irritation, wear rubber gloves.
     Multipurpose cleaners do not contain phosphates and are not
effective in cleaning lead dust. Wash mops thoroughly after
each use to prevent recontamination of
     cleaned surfaces. Do this twice a week. Dispose of rags after use.
     If wooden window frames are badly chipping, keep the bottom half
closed and open the top half for fresh air.
     Throw out old, soiled carpets or cover with a clean area rug
(machine washable are best).
     If you work with lead, wash work clothes separately from family
wash.

All purpose household cleaner: mix 1 teaspoon liquid soap, 1 teaspoon of
TSP and
            1 quart of warm water.  trisodium phosphate is the bonding
agent. can get at
hardware store.

--
********************************************************
Thank You
Robin Ellison
Auto & Parts... http://www.autoandparts.com
1-888-977-1999
Automotive Internet Services that get RESULTS !!
Auto & Parts provides internet solutions exclusively for
the Auto Recycling Industry. Offering used part locating
systems for buying & selling , web site design, hosting
and maintenance at a reasonable cost.
AOL FRIENDLY LINK
<a href="http://autoandparts.com">Auto And Parts</a>



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From owner-glass Mon Sep 10 20:39:01 2001
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X-Path: hotmail.com!glassgirl123
From: "Louise Armstrong" <glassgirl123@hotmail.com>
To: Glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
Subject: Orlando Stores
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 08:35:16 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@hotmail.com>
Precedence: bulk

Thank you to everyone who respoded to my inquiry regarding my move to 
Orlando. I did go down this weekend to look for a house and while I was 
there I checked out the stores on Saturday. For my money I believe Skip's 
store "Southern Exposure" in Winter Garden is the winner. The store is very 
clean, he has a large, and I mean large selection of glass on hand to choose 
from,Youghiogheny, Spectrum, Wismach, Uroborus, Chicago Art, Bullseye. You 
name and he probably has it. He says he can get most anything within a week, 
which for some of my sepcial order requests I find very exciting. His prices 
where a little better on most items as well.

Well thanks again for all the information. See you in a bout 2 weeks
Louise

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp

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From owner-glass Mon Sep 10 22:08:11 2001
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X-Path: lvcm.com!ejr929
From: "Ed Rogers" <ejr929@lvcm.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: Finding Pictures for Patterns
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 15:26:56 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@lvcm.com>
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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	charset="Windows-1252"
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>From time to time I see requests for pictures of jeeps, or dragons, or =
any other object for which patterns are not readily available.  Here's =
what you can do.....

Go to:  http://images.google.com/.  Type in whatever you would like a =
picture of, and you'll be amazed at the number of images which appear.  =
Just one example -- I typed in "Jeep" and got better than 650 images.  =
They're not patterns, of course, but at least you get  pictures of what =
you want, and from there can make your own pattern.

=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
  E-mail from: Ed Rogers=20
  EJR929@LVCM.COM
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D

------=_NextPart_000_00A6_01C13A0D.06A2C140
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	charset="Windows-1252"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dwindows-1252">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4807.2300" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=3DTahoma size=3D2>From time to time I see =
requests for=20
pictures of jeeps, or dragons, or any other object for which patterns =
are not=20
readily available.&nbsp; Here's what you can =
do.....</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=3DTahoma size=3D2></FONT></STRONG>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=3DTahoma size=3D2>Go to:&nbsp; <A=20
href=3D"http://images.google.com/">http://images.google.com/</A>.&nbsp; =
Type in=20
whatever you would like a picture of, and you'll be amazed at the number =
of=20
images which appear.&nbsp; Just one example -- I typed in "Jeep" and got =
better=20
than 650 images.&nbsp; They're not patterns, of course, but at least you =

get&nbsp; pictures of what you want, and from there can make your own=20
pattern.</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=3DTahoma =
size=3D2><BR>=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
<BR>&nbsp; E-mail=20
from: Ed Rogers <BR>&nbsp; <A=20
href=3D"mailto:EJR929@LVCM.COM">EJR929@LVCM.COM</A><BR>=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D</FONT></STRONG></DIV></DIV></B=
ODY></HTML>

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From owner-glass Tue Sep 11 10:31:03 2001
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	for rglass-42; Tue, 11 Sep 2001 10:23:10 -0700 (PDT)
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X-Path: auto.com!robin
From: "Robin Ellison - Auto And Parts, LLC" <robin@auto.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: whiting or saw dust question
Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2001 13:17:28 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@auto.com>
Organization: Auto and Parts.Com
Precedence: bulk

hi everyone,
how long do in need to leave whiting or sawdust on the cement for before
i flip and do other side?
thanks
-- 
********************************************************
Thank You
Robin Ellison
Auto & Parts... http://www.autoandparts.com
1-888-977-1999
Automotive Internet Services that get RESULTS !!
Auto & Parts provides internet solutions exclusively for 
the Auto Recycling Industry. Offering used part locating 
systems for buying & selling , web site design, hosting 
and maintenance at a reasonable cost.
AOL FRIENDLY LINK
<a href="http://autoandparts.com">Auto And Parts</a>

----
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From owner-glass Tue Sep 11 12:11:42 2001
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	for rglass-42; Tue, 11 Sep 2001 12:07:04 -0700 (PDT)
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X-Path: gjr
From: gjr@bungi.com (Glenna Rand)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Disaster
Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2001 12:05:45 PDT
Message-ID: <m15gsqx-0000TTC@daver.bungi.com>
Precedence: bulk

Aloha all,

I wish to extend my concerns and sympathy to all those involved in
the disaster in NYC and Washington and all those who were involved
in the plane crashes.  This is a horrible event and I send my prayers to
all those out there.  God Bless.


-- 
Glenna Rand
gjr@bungi.com
----
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From owner-glass Tue Sep 11 17:06:15 2001
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X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: whiting or saw dust question
Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2001 19:38:58 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com>
Precedence: bulk

Message text written by "Robin Ellison - Auto And Parts, LLC"
>hi everyone,
how long do in need to leave whiting or sawdust on the cement for before
i flip and do other side?
thanks<

As long as it takes you to scrape the excess off your hands and turn it
over.

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
Denton, TX
----
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From owner-glass Tue Sep 11 18:03:19 2001
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X-Path: heesun.com!robert
From: <robert@heesun.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Disaster
Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2001 20:37:43 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@heesun.com>
References: <<m15gsqx-0000TTC@daver.bungi.com>>
Precedence: bulk

I would also like to encourage everyone to PLEASE go to your nearest Red
Cross and give blood...in the US call 1800 GIVE LIFE to locate the nearest
donation center  or go to www.redcross.org and check there, we waited 4-1/2
hours today with our 5 year old daughter and about 200 + others including
the Lieutenant Gov. of MD and a Baltimore Raven.....


We will keep all in our prayers.


Robert
Hee Sun Stained Glass, Ltd.
324 Main Street
Reisterstown , MD 21136
410-833-3007
info@heesun.com
sales@heesun.com
http://www.heesun.com


----- Original Message -----
From: "Glenna Rand" <gjr@bungi.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2001 3:05 PM
Subject: Disaster


> Aloha all,
>
> I wish to extend my concerns and sympathy to all those involved in
> the disaster in NYC and Washington and all those who were involved
> in the plane crashes.  This is a horrible event and I send my prayers to
> all those out there.  God Bless.
>
>
> --
> Glenna Rand
> gjr@bungi.com
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>


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From owner-glass Tue Sep 11 18:07:06 2001
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X-Path: dca.net!brambo
From: "Betsy Rambo" <brambo@dca.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: Gatewayed mail message
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 12:14:54 -0400
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Please remove me from your list.  Thanks, Too much 3-mail!

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From owner-glass Tue Sep 11 21:06:09 2001
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	for rglass-42; Tue, 11 Sep 2001 20:47:10 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: home.com!cecnralph
From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Subject: Re: Disaster (NG)
Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2001 21:44:03 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@heesun.com>>
Organization: Grendel Studio
Precedence: bulk

Call first.  At 5:30 this evening the Columbia blood center was on page 7 of
53 pages of people lined up to donate.  Cec

robert@heesun.com wrote:

> I would also like to encourage everyone to PLEASE go to your nearest Red
> Cross and give blood...in the US call 1800 GIVE LIFE to locate the nearest
> donation center  or go to www.redcross.org and check there, we waited 4-1/2
> hours today with our 5 year old daughter and about 200 + others including
> the Lieutenant Gov. of MD and a Baltimore Raven.....
>
> We will keep all in our prayers.
>
> Robert
> Hee Sun Stained Glass, Ltd.
> 324 Main Street
> Reisterstown , MD 21136
> 410-833-3007
> info@heesun.com
> sales@heesun.com
> http://www.heesun.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Glenna Rand" <gjr@bungi.com>
> To: <glass@bungi.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2001 3:05 PM
> Subject: Disaster
>
> > Aloha all,
> >
> > I wish to extend my concerns and sympathy to all those involved in
> > the disaster in NYC and Washington and all those who were involved
> > in the plane crashes.  This is a horrible event and I send my prayers to
> > all those out there.  God Bless.
> >
> >
> > --
> > Glenna Rand
> > gjr@bungi.com
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> >
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

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From owner-glass Wed Sep 12 12:23:05 2001
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Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2001 12:54:48 -0400
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Please remove me from your e-mail list.  Thanks

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From owner-glass Wed Sep 12 14:30:55 2001
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	for rglass-42; Wed, 12 Sep 2001 14:07:35 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: "studio@stainedglass.co.uk" <studio@stainedglass.co.uk>
Subject: cutter (without oil)
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2001 22:16:08 +0100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@verrier>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@stainedglass.co.uk>>
Precedence: bulk

Elizabeth.
        I have two cutters (well to be honest more than that) that I use
for different purposes.  
        Bohle have come out with a new brass barrel narrow head cutter
that I keep oiled.  If the top is screwed down tightly it does not leak
unless the head is depressed, as that opens the valve to let out some
oil onto the wheel.  I like this one very much.  It is my preferred
cutter for general work.
        I have another cutter that I have no oil in the barrel.  This is
the one I use when cutting glass that is to be fused.  I have enough
trouble getting and keeping the glass really clean before fusing,
without adding oil to the problem.  This cutter does not seem to have
suffered from the lack of oil.
        Other cutters are used when I am on site.  First, because I tend
to loose them on site work; second because they get much rougher
treatment on site.
        All of these cutters are the barrel type that have a hollow for
receiving oil.

Steve


In message <1970Jan1.000.0@stainedglass.co.uk>,
studio@stainedglass.co.uk <studio@stainedglass.co.uk> writes
>At 20:31 06/09/01 -0700, Lorley wrote:
>>This sounds like a simple question but I've always wondered.. I use a 
>>pencil type glass cutter with the oil in the barrel. Do I loosen the top of 
>>the cutter to help with the oil flow while cutting or just always keep the 
>>top screw tightened?? 
>
>The theory used to be that you loosen the top if you need to increase flow -
>but many cutters nowadays have a 'breather' hole and with that you are
>supposed to keep the screw cap tightened up.
>
>Many of us have given up on trying to get the flow right and dont put oil in
>the handle at all but keep it stored upright in a jar (or the Morton cutter
>caddy if you have the board) with a rag soaked in oil at the bottom of it.
>Thus each time you replace the cutter you are oiling the wheel.
>This is useful if you have to cart your tools about as it means there is no
>oil in the handle to leak out all over the box!!
>
>I have heard that some people never use any lubricant at all - but I am not
>sure why not.

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Wed Sep 12 15:37:36 2001
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X-Path: aol.com!Plantastics6159
From: Plantastics6159@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Google Image site and Prayers and Blessing to All
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2001 15:47:55 EDT
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>
Precedence: bulk

Hello everyone,

As all of you, my prayers go out to those people who have suffered deeply 
from this national tragedy.  May God bless and heal  our broken country and 
justice be served on those who are guilty.

Well, I did enjoy the Google Image site for a moment.  I have erased the 
address by accident and would appreciate who ever sent it to the group to 
please provide it again.

Many thanks,
Cyndie

 
----
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From owner-glass Wed Sep 12 16:41:07 2001
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	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: earthlink.net!kremmert
From: "Kurt Remmert" <kremmert@earthlink.net>
To: <Plantastics6159@aol.com>, <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE: Google Image site and Prayers and Blessing to All
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2001 18:27:07 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@earthlink.net>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Try http://www.google.com/advanced_search

This is the advance search site where you can specify that
you are looking for images.

Kurt
San Antonio, TX

-----Original Message-----
From: Plantastics6159@aol.com [mailto:Plantastics6159@aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, September 12, 2001 2:48 PM
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Google Image site and Prayers and Blessing to All


Hello everyone,

As all of you, my prayers go out to those people who have suffered deeply
from this national tragedy.  May God bless and heal  our broken country and
justice be served on those who are guilty.

Well, I did enjoy the Google Image site for a moment.  I have erased the
address by accident and would appreciate who ever sent it to the group to
please provide it again.

Many thanks,
Cyndie


----
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From owner-glass Wed Sep 12 20:43:09 2001
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	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: aol.com!JzzyGlass
From: JzzyGlass@aol.com
To: JzzyGlass@aol.com
Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_8a.c777f0d.28d1829e_boundary"
Subject: Editorial from Canada
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2001 23:31:42 EDT
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>
Precedence: bulk


--part1_8a.c777f0d.28d1829e_boundary
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Subject:  WE SHOULD BE PROUD TO BE .......... AN AMERICAN




TRIBUTE TO THE UNITED STATES

This, from a Canadian newspaper, is worth sharing.

America: The Good Neighbor. Widespread but only partial
news coverage was given recently to a remarkable editorial
broadcast from Toronto by Gordon Sinclair, a Canadian
television Commentator.

What follows is the full text of his trenchant remarks as
printed in the Congressional Record:

"This Canadian thinks it is time to speak up for the
Americans as the most generous and possibly the least
appreciated people on all the earth. Germany, Japan
and, to a lesser extent, Britain and Italy were lifted
out of the debris of war by the Americans who poured in
billions of dollars and forgave other billions in
debts. None of these countries is today paying even
the interest on its remaining debts to the United
States.

When France was in danger of collapsing in 1956, it was
the Americans who propped it up, and their reward was
to be insulted and swindled on the streets of Paris. I
was there. I saw it.

When earthquakes hit distant cities, it is the United
States that hurries in to help. This spring, 5 American
communities were flattened by tornadoes. Nobody helped.

The Marshall Plan and the Truman Policy pumped billions
of dollars into discouraged countries. Now newspapers
in those countries are writing about the decadent,
warmongering America.

I'd like to see just one of those countries that is
gloating over the erosion of the United States dollar
build its own airplane. Does any other country in the
world have a plane to equal the Boeing Jumbo Jet, the
Lockheed Tri-Star, or the Douglas DC10?   If so, why
don't they fly them? Why do all the International
lines except Russia fly American Planes?

Why does no other land on earth even consider putting a
man or woman on the moon? You talk about Japan technology,
and you get radios. You talk about German technology,
and you get automobiles. You talk about American
technology, and you find men on the moon - not once, but
several times - and safely home again.

You talk about scandals, and the Americans put theirs
right in the store window for everybody to look at.
Even their draft-dodgers are not pursued and hounded.
They are here on our streets, and most of them, unless
they are breaking Canadian laws, are getting American
dollars from ma and pa at home to spend here.

When the railways of France, Germany and India were
breaking down through age, it was the Americans who
rebuilt them. When the Pennsylvania Railroad and the
New York  Central went broke, nobody loaned them an
old caboose. Both are still broke.

I can name you 5000 times when the Americans raced to the
help of other people in trouble. Can you name me even one
time when someone else raced to the Americans in trouble?
I don't think there was outside help even during the
San Francisco earthquake.

Our neighbors have faced it alone, and I'm one Canadian
who is tired of hearing them get kicked around. They
will come out of this thing with their flag high.
And when they do, they are entitled to thumb their nose at
the lands that are gloating over their present troubles.

I hope Canada is not one of those."

Stand proud, America!     Wear it proudly!!

This is one of the best editorials that I have ever
read regarding the United States. It is nice that one
man realizes it. I only wish that the rest of the world
would realize it. We are always blamed for everything,
and never even get a thank you for the things we do.


--part1_8a.c777f0d.28d1829e_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>Subject: &nbsp;WE SHOULD BE PROUD TO BE .......... AN AMERICAN
<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BR>TRIBUTE TO THE UNITED STATES
<BR>
<BR>This, from a Canadian newspaper, is worth sharing.
<BR>
<BR>America: The Good Neighbor. Widespread but only partial
<BR>news coverage was given recently to a remarkable editorial
<BR>broadcast from Toronto by Gordon Sinclair, a Canadian
<BR>television Commentator.
<BR>
<BR>What follows is the full text of his trenchant remarks as
<BR>printed in the Congressional Record:
<BR>
<BR>"This Canadian thinks it is time to speak up for the
<BR>Americans as the most generous and possibly the least
<BR>appreciated people on all the earth. Germany, Japan
<BR>and, to a lesser extent, Britain and Italy were lifted
<BR>out of the debris of war by the Americans who poured in
<BR>billions of dollars and forgave other billions in
<BR>debts. None of these countries is today paying even
<BR>the interest on its remaining debts to the United
<BR>States.
<BR>
<BR>When France was in danger of collapsing in 1956, it was
<BR>the Americans who propped it up, and their reward was
<BR>to be insulted and swindled on the streets of Paris. I
<BR>was there. I saw it.
<BR>
<BR>When earthquakes hit distant cities, it is the United
<BR>States that hurries in to help. This spring, 5 American
<BR>communities were flattened by tornadoes. Nobody helped.
<BR>
<BR>The Marshall Plan and the Truman Policy pumped billions
<BR>of dollars into discouraged countries. Now newspapers
<BR>in those countries are writing about the decadent,
<BR>warmongering America.
<BR>
<BR>I'd like to see just one of those countries that is
<BR>gloating over the erosion of the United States dollar
<BR>build its own airplane. Does any other country in the
<BR>world have a plane to equal the Boeing Jumbo Jet, the
<BR>Lockheed Tri-Star, or the Douglas DC10? &nbsp;&nbsp;If so, why
<BR>don't they fly them? Why do all the International
<BR>lines except Russia fly American Planes?
<BR>
<BR>Why does no other land on earth even consider putting a
<BR>man or woman on the moon? You talk about Japan technology,
<BR>and you get radios. You talk about German technology,
<BR>and you get automobiles. You talk about American
<BR>technology, and you find men on the moon - not once, but
<BR>several times - and safely home again.
<BR>
<BR>You talk about scandals, and the Americans put theirs
<BR>right in the store window for everybody to look at.
<BR>Even their draft-dodgers are not pursued and hounded.
<BR>They are here on our streets, and most of them, unless
<BR>they are breaking Canadian laws, are getting American
<BR>dollars from ma and pa at home to spend here.
<BR>
<BR>When the railways of France, Germany and India were
<BR>breaking down through age, it was the Americans who
<BR>rebuilt them. When the Pennsylvania Railroad and the
<BR>New York &nbsp;Central went broke, nobody loaned them an
<BR>old caboose. Both are still broke.
<BR>
<BR>I can name you 5000 times when the Americans raced to the
<BR>help of other people in trouble. Can you name me even one
<BR>time when someone else raced to the Americans in trouble?
<BR>I don't think there was outside help even during the
<BR>San Francisco earthquake.
<BR>
<BR>Our neighbors have faced it alone, and I'm one Canadian
<BR>who is tired of hearing them get kicked around. They
<BR>will come out of this thing with their flag high.
<BR>And when they do, they are entitled to thumb their nose at
<BR>the lands that are gloating over their present troubles.
<BR>
<BR>I hope Canada is not one of those."
<BR>
<BR>Stand proud, America! &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Wear it proudly!!
<BR>
<BR>This is one of the best editorials that I have ever
<BR>read regarding the United States. It is nice that one
<BR>man realizes it. I only wish that the rest of the world
<BR>would realize it. We are always blamed for everything,
<BR>and never even get a thank you for the things we do.
<BR></FONT></HTML>

--part1_8a.c777f0d.28d1829e_boundary--
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From owner-glass Thu Sep 13 09:15:03 2001
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	for rglass-42; Thu, 13 Sep 2001 09:00:47 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: whiting or saw dust question
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2001 10:14:22 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com>
Precedence: bulk

Message text written by Steve Richard
>How does it get onto your hands Christie?
        I use a brush to apply the cement, some people also put on
cotton or latex gloves.<

I apply both the cement (putty) and whiting using my hands, not a brush o=
r
fid or whatever.  Just my fingers.  Playing in the mud.  I've had a coupl=
e
of assistants who use gloves, but I prefer to just use my hands.

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
Denton, TX
----
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From owner-glass Thu Sep 13 09:30:48 2001
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	for rglass-42; Thu, 13 Sep 2001 09:13:38 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: heesun.com!jeanne
From: <jeanne@heesun.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: Request for canopy tents
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2001 12:12:52 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@heesun.com>
Organization: Hee Sun Stained Glass, LTD.
Precedence: bulk

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0084_01C13C4D.699E1280
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="Windows-1252"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Just heard on MSNBC that a request has gone out for Canopy style tents =
for the workers in NY to drape over their work areas......
Just in case any one nearby can assist.
They didn't mention any contact information though

Hee Sun Stained Glass, Ltd.
324 Main Street=20
Reisterstown , MD 21136
410-833-3007=20
info@heesun.com   =20
sales@heesun.com
http://www.heesun.com
Custom Design Studio=20
Supplies & Classes for Stained & Fused Glass & Mosaics

When one door of happiness closes,
another opens; but often we look so
long at the closed door that we do not
see the one which has been opened for
us.   Helen Keller



------=_NextPart_000_0084_01C13C4D.699E1280
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="Windows-1252"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dwindows-1252">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4134.600" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DAutumn>Just heard on MSNBC that a request has gone out =
for=20
Canopy style tents for the workers in NY to drape over their work=20
areas......</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DAutumn>Just in case any one nearby can =
assist.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DAutumn>They didn't mention any contact information=20
though</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DAutumn></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DAutumn>Hee Sun Stained Glass, Ltd.<BR>324 Main Street=20
<BR>Reisterstown , MD 21136<BR>410-833-3007 <BR><A=20
href=3D"mailto:info@heesun.com">info@heesun.com</A>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
<BR><A=20
href=3D"mailto:sales@heesun.com">sales@heesun.com</A><BR><A=20
href=3D"http://www.heesun.com">http://www.heesun.com</A><BR>Custom =
Design Studio=20
<BR>Supplies &amp; Classes for Stained &amp; Fused Glass &amp;=20
Mosaics</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DAutumn>When one door of happiness closes,<BR>another =
opens; but=20
often we look so<BR>long at the closed door that we do not<BR>see the =
one which=20
has been opened for<BR>us.&nbsp;&nbsp; Helen Keller</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DAutumn></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0084_01C13C4D.699E1280--

----
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From owner-glass Thu Sep 13 11:31:04 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
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	id <m15hapv-0000NCa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Thu, 13 Sep 2001 11:03:39 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: heesun.com!jeanne
From: <jeanne@heesun.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: Light a Candle for Unity ( NG)
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2001 08:42:29 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@heesun.com>
Organization: Hee Sun Stained Glass, LTD.
Precedence: bulk

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0018_01C13C30.0592FB60
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	charset="Windows-1252"
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  I just saw the following posting on the Warm Glass Board and thought =
I'd post it here.=20

  ****** Just got this email, thought I'd post it here:=20

  Light a Candle for Unity.=20

  Terrorists have struck out at us as Americans, but in response let us =
come together and show our unity. Let us show that though our arm may =
have been hurt, they can not dim the heart of America. On Thursday =
September 13, 2001 at 10:30 pm EST, walk out your door and light a =
candle or lantern to show the world that our spirit burns bright. Gather =
with loved ones or gather with neighbors but let our light burn in the =
night to show that we are united and that we remain strong.=20

  Please pass this on to anyone you know..print it up and pass it to =
neighbors who may not have internet access, post it to message boards, =
clubs, news stations, nywhere and everywhere there is a proud American.=20


Hee Sun Stained Glass, Ltd.
324 Main Street=20
Reisterstown , MD 21136
410-833-3007=20
info@heesun.com   =20
sales@heesun.com
http://www.heesun.com
Custom Design Studio=20
Supplies & Classes for Stained & Fused Glass & Mosaics

When one door of happiness closes,
another opens; but often we look so
long at the closed door that we do not
see the one which has been opened for
us.   Helen Keller



------=_NextPart_000_0018_01C13C30.0592FB60
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="Windows-1252"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dwindows-1252">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4134.600" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DAutumn>
<BLOCKQUOTE><FONT color=3D#000000>
  <P>I just saw the following posting on&nbsp;the Warm Glass Board and =
thought=20
  I'd post it here.=20
  <P>****** Just got this email, thought I'd post it here:=20
  <P>Light a Candle for Unity.=20
  <P>Terrorists have struck out at us as Americans, but in response let =
us come=20
  together and show our unity. Let us show that though our arm may have =
been=20
  hurt, they can not dim the heart of America. On Thursday September 13, =
2001 at=20
  10:30 pm EST, walk out your door and light a candle or lantern to show =
the=20
  world that our spirit burns bright. Gather with loved ones or gather =
with=20
  neighbors but let our light burn in the night to show that we are =
united and=20
  that we remain strong.=20
  <P>Please pass this on to anyone you know..print it up and pass it to=20
  neighbors who may not have internet access, post it to message boards, =
clubs,=20
  news stations, nywhere and everywhere there is a proud American.=20
  <P></FONT></P></BLOCKQUOTE></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DAutumn>Hee Sun Stained Glass, Ltd.<BR>324 Main Street=20
<BR>Reisterstown , MD 21136<BR>410-833-3007 <BR><A=20
href=3D"mailto:info@heesun.com">info@heesun.com</A>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
<BR><A=20
href=3D"mailto:sales@heesun.com">sales@heesun.com</A><BR><A=20
href=3D"http://www.heesun.com">http://www.heesun.com</A><BR>Custom =
Design Studio=20
<BR>Supplies &amp; Classes for Stained &amp; Fused Glass &amp;=20
Mosaics</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DAutumn>When one door of happiness closes,<BR>another =
opens; but=20
often we look so<BR>long at the closed door that we do not<BR>see the =
one which=20
has been opened for<BR>us.&nbsp;&nbsp; Helen Keller</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DAutumn></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0018_01C13C30.0592FB60--

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From owner-glass Thu Sep 13 15:01:25 2001
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	for rglass-42; Thu, 13 Sep 2001 14:49:53 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: "Robin Ellison - Auto And Parts, LLC" <robin@auto.com>
Subject: Re: whiting or saw dust question
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2001 08:22:15 +0100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@verrier>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@auto.com>>
Precedence: bulk

With whiting you need to rub it gently onto the cement before turning it
and cementing the other side.  put whiting on the second side, rub it
into the cement and go back to the first side.  Begin to rub the whiting
into the cement vigorously.  The whole cementing and fininshing process
should be a continuous process.  After the panel is bright and the leads
polished, you can leave the panel to rest for a day or two, checking for
any weeping of the cement from under the calmes.

I have no experience with sawdust, and so have no help to give there.

Steve


In message <1970Jan1.000.0@auto.com>, Robin Ellison - Auto And Parts,
LLC <robin@auto.com> writes
>hi everyone,
>how long do in need to leave whiting or sawdust on the cement for before
>i flip and do other side?
>thanks

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
----
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From owner-glass Thu Sep 13 15:16:49 2001
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	for rglass-42; Thu, 13 Sep 2001 14:51:01 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: whiting or saw dust question
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2001 08:23:49 +0100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@verrier>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com>>
Precedence: bulk

How does it get onto your hands Christie?
        I use a brush to apply the cement, some people also put on
cotton or latex gloves.

Steve

In message <1970Jan1.000.0@compuserve.com>, Christie A. Wood
<Ensembles@compuserve.com> writes
>Message text written by "Robin Ellison - Auto And Parts, LLC"
>>hi everyone,
>how long do in need to leave whiting or sawdust on the cement for before
>i flip and do other side?
>thanks<
>
>As long as it takes you to scrape the excess off your hands and turn it
>over.
>
>Christie A. Wood
>Art Glass Ensembles
>Denton, TX
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
----
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From owner-glass Thu Sep 13 20:10:12 2001
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	for rglass-42; Thu, 13 Sep 2001 19:56:20 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: aol.com!Gcanvas
From: Gcanvas@aol.com
To: Plantastics6159@aol.com, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_13c.165b776.28d2cb82_boundary"
Subject: Re: Google Image site and Prayers and Blessing to All
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2001 22:54:58 EDT
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>
Precedence: bulk


--part1_13c.165b776.28d2cb82_boundary
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Try:   http://images.google.com/


Jim Kelly
Gcanvas @aol.com

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>Try: &nbsp;&nbsp;http://images.google.com/
<BR>
<BR>
<BR>Jim Kelly
<BR>Gcanvas @aol.com</FONT></HTML>

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From owner-glass Thu Sep 13 23:34:44 2001
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X-Path: home.com!cecnralph
From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
To: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>,
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Subject: Re: whiting or saw dust question
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2001 23:51:08 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@verrier>>
Organization: Grendel Studio
Precedence: bulk

In my first class in leading the people who taught it used whiting AND
sawdust.  We sprinkled some whiting on the surface, rather like lightly
dusting a cake with powdered sugar.  Then we sprinkled a little sawdust on.
Having done this both ways, now, I think the effect of the sawdust was to
hold down some of the airborne whiting particles, and it also gave a bit of
substance to the process.  It was easier and less dusty to brush the
sawdust/whiting mix off so you could turn the piece, and then when you
really started the final stage energetic cleaning, we added more sawdust to
help absorb the whiting and help clean the glass as well.  And it also aided
in cleanup afterward, on the work surface and on the floor.

I've no idea where their unending source of sawdust was, though.  There
never is any around the house when I need it, but I would prefer to use it
if I had some on hand.  And they wisely stored that sawdust in a metal
container with a metal lid. - Cec


Steve Richard wrote:

> With whiting you need to rub it gently onto the cement before turning it
> and cementing the other side.  put whiting on the second side, rub it
> into the cement and go back to the first side.  Begin to rub the whiting
> into the cement vigorously.  The whole cementing and fininshing process
> should be a continuous process.  After the panel is bright and the leads
> polished, you can leave the panel to rest for a day or two, checking for
> any weeping of the cement from under the calmes.
>
> I have no experience with sawdust, and so have no help to give there.
>
> Steve
>
> In message <1970Jan1.000.0@auto.com>, Robin Ellison - Auto And Parts,
> LLC <robin@auto.com> writes
> >hi everyone,
> >how long do in need to leave whiting or sawdust on the cement for before
> >i flip and do other side?
> >thanks
>
> --
> Steve Richard
> Verrier Art Glass Ltd
> s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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From owner-glass Fri Sep 14 08:34:48 2001
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X-Path: olynet.com!anastasion
From: "Doris L. Anastasion" <anastasion@olynet.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: oxidation
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2001 08:04:47 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@olynet.com>
Precedence: bulk

Hi.  I started a lamp shade months ago and set it aside and it has been
rough soldered, and now is quite oxidated.  Does anyone have a magical
solution to removing the oxidation without rubbing your arms to death?  It's
the three dimensional chestnut leaf design from Odyssey.  I would surely
appreciate any help.  Thanx.  Doris L.

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From owner-glass Fri Sep 14 12:23:12 2001
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X-Path: yahoo.com!sparkylynne
From: Lynne Black <sparkylynne@yahoo.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: RE: bowling pattern
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2001 04:56:47 -0700 (PDT)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>
Precedence: bulk

Thanks Alex!  It is great.  I do machine embroidery
also and I can digitize it for that process too. 
It'll look great on bowling shirts.  

Thanks again.

Lynne

__________________________________________________
Terrorist Attacks on U.S. - How can you help?
Donate cash, emergency relief information
http://dailynews.yahoo.com/fc/US/Emergency_Information/
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From owner-glass Fri Sep 14 19:16:34 2001
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From: Angie Larsen <aglassworks@yahoo.com>
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Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2001 18:59:35 -0700 (PDT)
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__________________________________________________
Terrorist Attacks on U.S. - How can you help?
Donate cash, emergency relief information
http://dailynews.yahoo.com/fc/US/Emergency_Information/
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From owner-glass Sat Sep 15 10:34:14 2001
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From: "Bob&Mary Wright" <The_Wright_Light@onemain.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: NG-sadness
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2001 07:15:05 -0400
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Something I heard on the local news at a candle light vigal.. "We all =
came over in different ships, but we are all in the same boat
now."

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Something I heard on the local news at =
a candle=20
light vigal.. "We all came over in different ships, but we are all in =
the same=20
boat</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>now."</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-glass Sat Sep 15 11:34:24 2001
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	for rglass-42; Sat, 15 Sep 2001 11:10:54 -0700 (PDT)
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X-Path: cfl.rr.com!sfriel
From: "Shay Friel" <sfriel@cfl.rr.com>
To: "Doris L. Anastasion" <anastasion@olynet.com>, <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: oxidation
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2001 13:16:15 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@cfl.rr.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@olynet.com>>
Precedence: bulk

I have had luck using a flux brush with the bristles cut down to about a 1/4
in and scrubbing the solder lines with the flux.  It still takes some
rubbing, but seemed to be effective when I did it.
Shay Friel
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doris L. Anastasion" <anastasion@olynet.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Friday, September 14, 2001 11:04 AM
Subject: oxidation


> Hi.  I started a lamp shade months ago and set it aside and it has been
> rough soldered, and now is quite oxidated.  Does anyone have a magical
> solution to removing the oxidation without rubbing your arms to death?
It's
> the three dimensional chestnut leaf design from Odyssey.  I would surely
> appreciate any help.  Thanx.  Doris L.
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>

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From owner-glass Sat Sep 15 11:43:53 2001
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X-Path: northlights.co.uk!toby
From: "Elisabeth Roberg" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: "Glenna Rand" <gjr@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Disaster
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2001 17:23:48 +0100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@northlights.co.uk>
References: <<m15gsqx-0000TTC@daver.bungi.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Dear Bungians everywhere, - but especially in USA


I am now back on line, with a new computer and (almost) a new house (after
my house caught fire in July). After another couple of weeks, I will be able
to move back in.
However, my own disasters pale into insignificance in light of what happened
earlier this week in USA.

At 11 am yesterday, we all observed 3 minutes silence here in UK. Jenny and
myself were walking in a small little market town locally, when the church
bells rang out. The entire town came to a stand-still. I thought of each and
everyone of you in USA and prayed that all of you were safe and sound and,
so also, your loved ones.

My thoughts are with you.

Elisabeth 'n Toby in UK (+ Meric)

(Toby is making a good recovery..... more later)
----- Original Message -----
From: Glenna Rand <gjr@bungi.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2001 8:05 PM
Subject: Disaster


> Aloha all,
>
> I wish to extend my concerns and sympathy to all those involved in
> the disaster in NYC and Washington and all those who were involved
> in the plane crashes.  This is a horrible event and I send my prayers to
> all those out there.  God Bless.
>
>
> --
> Glenna Rand
> gjr@bungi.com
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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>

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From owner-glass Sat Sep 15 17:43:03 2001
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X-Path: home.com!cecnralph
From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Subject: Re: oxidation
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2001 19:18:46 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@cfl.rr.com>>
Organization: Grendel Studio
Precedence: bulk

Really, rubbing is best - scrubbing is apt to lift the solder/foil and weaken
it. - Cec

Shay Friel wrote:

> I have had luck using a flux brush with the bristles cut down to about a 1/4
> in and scrubbing the solder lines with the flux.  It still takes some
> rubbing, but seemed to be effective when I did it.
> Shay Friel
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Doris L. Anastasion" <anastasion@olynet.com>
> To: <glass@bungi.com>
> Sent: Friday, September 14, 2001 11:04 AM
> Subject: oxidation
>
> > Hi.  I started a lamp shade months ago and set it aside and it has been
> > rough soldered, and now is quite oxidated.  Does anyone have a magical
> > solution to removing the oxidation without rubbing your arms to death?
> It's
> > the three dimensional chestnut leaf design from Odyssey.  I would surely
> > appreciate any help.  Thanx.  Doris L.
> >
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> >
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

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From owner-glass Sat Sep 15 22:26:49 2001
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X-Path: home.com!gunnx4
From: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@home.com>
To: Shay Friel <sfriel@cfl.rr.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: oxidation
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2001 20:40:46 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@cfl.rr.com>>
Organization: glassdancer
Precedence: bulk

I'd use 000 or 0000 steel wool, then rinse well.

Suzanne

Shay Friel wrote:
> 
> I have had luck using a flux brush with the bristles cut down to about a 1/4
> in and scrubbing the solder lines with the flux.  It still takes some
> rubbing, but seemed to be effective when I did it.
> Shay Friel
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Doris L. Anastasion" <anastasion@olynet.com>
> To: <glass@bungi.com>
> Sent: Friday, September 14, 2001 11:04 AM
> Subject: oxidation
> 
> > Hi.  I started a lamp shade months ago and set it aside and it has been
> > rough soldered, and now is quite oxidated.  Does anyone have a magical
> > solution to removing the oxidation without rubbing your arms to death?
> It's
> > the three dimensional chestnut leaf design from Odyssey.  I would surely
> > appreciate any help.  Thanx.  Doris L.
> >
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> >
> 
> ----
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From owner-glass Mon Sep 17 08:04:48 2001
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X-Path: auto.com!robin
From: "Robin Ellison - Auto And Parts, LLC" <robin@auto.com>
To: "(Patti Bensinger)" <pbensinger@state.de.us>,
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: click on and then pass on
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 10:47:33 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@auto.com>
Organization: Auto and Parts.Com
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http://www.teklock.com/Remember/

[Image]

--
********************************************************
Thank You
Robin Ellison
Auto & Parts... http://www.autoandparts.com
1-888-977-1999
Automotive Internet Services that get RESULTS !!
Auto & Parts provides internet solutions exclusively for
the Auto Recycling Industry. Offering used part locating
systems for buying & selling , web site design, hosting
and maintenance at a reasonable cost.
AOL FRIENDLY LINK
<a href="http://autoandparts.com">Auto And Parts</a>


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<p>--
<br>********************************************************
<br>Thank You
<br>Robin Ellison
<br>Auto &amp; Parts... <A HREF="http://www.autoandparts.com">http://www.autoandparts.com</A>
<br>1-888-977-1999
<br>Automotive Internet Services that get RESULTS !!
<br>Auto &amp; Parts provides internet solutions exclusively for
<br>the Auto Recycling Industry. Offering used part locating
<br>systems for buying &amp; selling , web site design, hosting
<br>and maintenance at a reasonable cost.
<br>AOL FRIENDLY LINK
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--------------449954E8CA7FEA660C8F91CD--

--------------3616735C2C398A684030F538--


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From owner-glass Mon Sep 17 10:08:28 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m15j1a2-0000Pna@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Mon, 17 Sep 2001 09:49:10 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: home.com!kristc
From: "Kris" <kristc@home.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Disaster
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 12:44:00 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@northlights.co.uk>>
Precedence: bulk

Oh dear, sorry about your house and glad you are getting rebuilt and
somewhat back to normal in the near future.

Thank you so much for your good wishes. The outpouring of prayers and
support from all over the world has been amazing and so meaningful to all of
us.

Kris

----- Original Message -----
From: "Elisabeth Roberg" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: "Glenna Rand" <gjr@bungi.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 15, 2001 12:23 PM
Subject: Re: Disaster


> Dear Bungians everywhere, - but especially in USA
>
>
> I am now back on line, with a new computer and (almost) a new house (after
> my house caught fire in July). After another couple of weeks, I will be
able
> to move back in.
> However, my own disasters pale into insignificance in light of what
happened
> earlier this week in USA.
>
> At 11 am yesterday, we all observed 3 minutes silence here in UK. Jenny
and
> myself were walking in a small little market town locally, when the church
> bells rang out. The entire town came to a stand-still. I thought of each
and
> everyone of you in USA and prayed that all of you were safe and sound and,
> so also, your loved ones.
>
> My thoughts are with you.
>
> Elisabeth 'n Toby in UK (+ Meric)
>
> (Toby is making a good recovery..... more later)
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Glenna Rand <gjr@bungi.com>
> To: <glass@bungi.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2001 8:05 PM
> Subject: Disaster
>
>
> > Aloha all,
> >
> > I wish to extend my concerns and sympathy to all those involved in
> > the disaster in NYC and Washington and all those who were involved
> > in the plane crashes.  This is a horrible event and I send my prayers to
> > all those out there.  God Bless.
> >
> >
> > --
> > Glenna Rand
> > gjr@bungi.com
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> >
>
> ----
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> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

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From owner-glass Tue Sep 18 20:51:45 2001
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From: Sherry Greer <texpenguin@yahoo.com>
To: GlassList <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: copper wire ?
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 20:32:51 -0700 (PDT)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>
Precedence: bulk

Question for you pros out there:
 
I'm working on a custom piece for a friend--a guardian angel penguin
suncatcher.  From reading posts in the past, I decided that perhaps I
should wrap the piece in copper wire to help support the weight of the
wings.  So I did.  I wrapped a piece from between the vertical body
pieces down around the belly, and another piece from between the
vertical body pieces out around a wing, the head, another wing, and
back up between the body pieces.  Here's where the problem starts.  No
matter what I do, I can't get the copper wire to accept solder.  I've
used various amounts of flux and solder, but nothing works.  I bought
my wire from a hobby shop jewelry section as my glass store was closed
that day.  It was labeled 24 gauge copper jewelry wire.  Is it possible
that there is some sort of coating on this?  Any suggestions on how to
solder it?  I decided to ask those with more experience than me before
I completely ruin the project!  If this wire is unusable, what's the
best way to undo the soldering that's done and salvage my pieces? 
Thanks again as always for all of your help.  This list is very
educational!
Sherry  Greer


=====
Sherry Greer
texpenguin@yahoo.com
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From owner-glass Wed Sep 19 04:31:54 2001
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From: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@home.com>
To: Sherry Greer <texpenguin@yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: copper wire ?
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 23:08:53 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@yahoo.com>>
Organization: glassdancer
Precedence: bulk

Try using 000 steel wool on it. My guess is it's just oxidized.  If that
doesnt work and you want to take it off, get a hold of the wire with
hemostats, (you might need a jig of some sort to hold the suncatcher for
you) heat with the iron as you slowly pull the wire off so as not to
tear your foil.

I buy my copper wire at the hardware store.  You might call hobby lobby
and ask them if the wire is coated.

Good luck.

Suzanne

Sherry Greer wrote:
> 
> Question for you pros out there:
> 
> I'm working on a custom piece for a friend--a guardian angel penguin
> suncatcher.  From reading posts in the past, I decided that perhaps I
> should wrap the piece in copper wire to help support the weight of the
> wings.  So I did.  I wrapped a piece from between the vertical body
> pieces down around the belly, and another piece from between the
> vertical body pieces out around a wing, the head, another wing, and
> back up between the body pieces.  Here's where the problem starts.  No
> matter what I do, I can't get the copper wire to accept solder.  I've
> used various amounts of flux and solder, but nothing works.  I bought
> my wire from a hobby shop jewelry section as my glass store was closed
> that day.  It was labeled 24 gauge copper jewelry wire.  Is it possible
> that there is some sort of coating on this?  Any suggestions on how to
> solder it?  I decided to ask those with more experience than me before
> I completely ruin the project!  If this wire is unusable, what's the
> best way to undo the soldering that's done and salvage my pieces?
> Thanks again as always for all of your help.  This list is very
> educational!
> Sherry  Greer
> 
> =====
> Sherry Greer
> texpenguin@yahoo.com
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
----
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From owner-glass Wed Sep 19 07:03:00 2001
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From: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie.Spitzer@stratus.com>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: RE: copper wire ?
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 06:51:03 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@stratus.com>
Precedence: bulk

some copper wire is coated with a varnish. try using acetone on another
piece of wire to see if solder will stick to it. if so, just wipe the
already applied wire with acetone.

wear nitrile gloves, not latex. they'll withstand the acetone better, but
still will be affected to some degree. avoid getting acetone on skin, work
outside or with a vapor respirator mask, don't try this at home, use
training wheels, yada.

regards,
charlie
phx, az

-----Original Message-----
From: Suzanne Gunn [mailto:gunnx4@home.com]
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2001 9:09 PM
To: Sherry Greer
Subject: Re: copper wire ?


Try using 000 steel wool on it. My guess is it's just oxidized.  If that
doesnt work and you want to take it off, get a hold of the wire with
hemostats, (you might need a jig of some sort to hold the suncatcher for
you) heat with the iron as you slowly pull the wire off so as not to
tear your foil.

I buy my copper wire at the hardware store.  You might call hobby lobby
and ask them if the wire is coated.

Good luck.

Suzanne

Sherry Greer wrote:
> 
> Question for you pros out there:
> 
> I'm working on a custom piece for a friend--a guardian angel penguin
> suncatcher.  From reading posts in the past, I decided that perhaps I
> should wrap the piece in copper wire to help support the weight of the
> wings.  So I did.  I wrapped a piece from between the vertical body
> pieces down around the belly, and another piece from between the
> vertical body pieces out around a wing, the head, another wing, and
> back up between the body pieces.  Here's where the problem starts.  No
> matter what I do, I can't get the copper wire to accept solder.  I've
> used various amounts of flux and solder, but nothing works.  I bought
> my wire from a hobby shop jewelry section as my glass store was closed
> that day.  It was labeled 24 gauge copper jewelry wire.  Is it possible
> that there is some sort of coating on this?  Any suggestions on how to
> solder it?  I decided to ask those with more experience than me before
> I completely ruin the project!  If this wire is unusable, what's the
> best way to undo the soldering that's done and salvage my pieces?
> Thanks again as always for all of your help.  This list is very
> educational!
> Sherry  Greer
> 
> =====
> Sherry Greer
> texpenguin@yahoo.com
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
----
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From owner-glass Wed Sep 19 13:34:01 2001
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From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: copper wire ?
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 10:49:06 -0400
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Message text written by Sherry Greer
>No
matter what I do, I can't get the copper wire to accept solder.  I've
used various amounts of flux and solder, but nothing works.  I bought
my wire from a hobby shop jewelry section as my glass store was closed
that day.  It was labeled 24 gauge copper jewelry wire.  Is it possible
that there is some sort of coating on this?  Any suggestions on how to
solder it?  I decided to ask those with more experience than me before
I completely ruin the project!  If this wire is unusable, what's the
best way to undo the soldering that's done and salvage my pieces? <

Yep...you purchased copper wire which has been coated with ?something? to=

keep it shiny for the jewelry industry.
You're going to have to throw it away and get just plain ole non-coated
copper wire.  I get mine from Lowe's or Home Depot.
In a pinch you can get electrical copper wire and strip off the plastic
coating pretty easily, so I've heard.  Don't use jewelry copper.

Remove the solder carefully by remelting it and flicking the excess off
your iron onto the floor.  Make sure you wear pants and close-toed shoes.=


Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
Denton, TX
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From owner-glass Wed Sep 19 16:03:38 2001
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From: Sherry Greer <texpenguin@yahoo.com>
To: GlassList <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: copper wire
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 15:47:36 -0700 (PDT)
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As always, Bungi has come through for me again!  It's such a blessing
to us newbies that you pros so willingly share your knowledge.  I've
learned far more from reading this list than from any book or class so
far.  I have reams of emails printed out for reference!  Thanks for all
the advice on my copper wire problem.  I think for my purposes, the
best was 'wire's cheap-throw it out and buy the right stuff', so I did.
 Also got great tips on taking my suncatcher apart again to
rewire/resolder.  THANKS!
Sherry Greer

=====
Sherry Greer
texpenguin@yahoo.com
----
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From owner-glass Wed Sep 19 19:37:55 2001
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From: Dan Terrill <dterrill@Corpit.com>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: *Sigh* New virus out there
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 07:56:24 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@Corpit.com>
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Yeah, there's another virus out there, called Nimda. This lovely little bug
has a 2-pronged attack -- it'll hit you via email and web pages both. If you
get an email with an attachment "readme.exe", delete it immediately. If
you're visiting a website and an unexpected download starts, you should
cancel that immediately as well.

As with any others, make sure you have an antivirus scanner running on your
computer, and update your antivirus data files frequently (I do it every
other day).



Regards,


Dan 
Network Admin and Wood/Glass Geek
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From owner-glass Wed Sep 19 19:42:13 2001
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--part1_9b.1b295996.28da767a_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
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Hi all,

That copper wire may have a silver coating.  I've messed up some of my 
earlier pieces and I found that if I cut the wire with a pair of fine wire 
cutters. I could take a stencil knife or a narrow bladed Exacto knife heat 
the solder and start melting the solder and work the knife between the wire 
and the foil.  I've had good luck with it most of the time.  If the foil 
starts to lift.  Its time to start over.  

Good Luck,
Ken O.

--part1_9b.1b295996.28da767a_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>Hi all,
<BR>
<BR>That copper wire may have a silver coating. &nbsp;I've messed up some of my earlier pieces and I found that if I cut the wire with a pair of fine wire cutters. I could take a stencil knife or a narrow bladed Exacto knife heat the solder and start melting the solder and work the knife between the wire and the foil. &nbsp;I've had good luck with it most of the time. &nbsp;If the foil starts to lift. &nbsp;Its time to start over. &nbsp;
<BR>
<BR>Good Luck,
<BR>Ken O.</FONT></HTML>

--part1_9b.1b295996.28da767a_boundary--
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From owner-glass Thu Sep 20 08:12:52 2001
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Subject: Lamp bases wanted 
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 17:54 +0000
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hello !
could u please put me onto your mailing list

Also, i was wondering if anybody knows of any manufcaturer of reasonably priced bronze/zinc alloy bases for tiffany style lamps in south east asia, say for example in Taiwan or China ?
thanks guys

ashish bajoria
calcutta, india

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From: FAITH BISCHOFF <hobiebis@yahoo.com>
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Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="0-414219490-1001076174=:81846"
Subject: mobiles
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 05:42:54 -0700 (PDT)
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Hello

Anyone have experience in making stained glass mobiles?  I would like some instructions.  Like what to use for rods to hang from or any ideas anyone might have

Thanks

Faith



---------------------------------
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<P>Hello</P>
<P>Anyone have experience in making stained glass mobiles?&nbsp; I would like some instructions.&nbsp; Like what to use for rods to hang from or any ideas anyone might have</P>
<P>Thanks</P>
<P>Faith</P><p><br><hr size=1><b>Terrorist Attacks on U.S. - How can you help?
</b><br>Donate cash, emergency relief information in
<a
href="http://rd.yahoo.com/mail_us/tag/?http://dailynews.yahoo.com/fc/US/Emergency_Information/">Yahoo! News</a>.
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Subject: Re: mobiles
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 14:41:26 EDT
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I would love the same information on mobiles as well :)

Thanks..

Loret
Michigan

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  COLOR="#8000ff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SCRIPT" FACE="Comic Sans MS" LANG="0">I would love the same information on mobiles as well :)
<BR>
<BR>Thanks..
<BR>
<BR>Loret
<BR>Michigan</FONT></HTML>

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From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: mobiles
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 16:48:29 -0400
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Message text written by FAITH BISCHOFF
>Hello

Anyone have experience in making stained glass mobiles?  I would like som=
e
instructions.  Like what to use for rods to hang from or any ideas anyone=

might have

Thanks

Faith<

I purchased some glass windchimes from Titan Art Glass (out of Arkansas).=
 =

The individual glass pieces are strung from another glass round centerpie=
ce
shaped like a wheel with spokes.  The spokes keep the fishing line from
slipping out of place so that the balance of the mobile is maintained.  I=
f
you imagine the individual pieces of the mobile as hanging down verticall=
y,
then the wheel with spokes is oriented horizontally.  I've also made some=

of my own stained glass mobiles, making the handing rods from brass weldi=
ng
rods to which I have soldered tiny wire jump rings.  Then string the mobi=
le
pieces with fishing line through the jump rings.

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
Denton, TX
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From owner-glass Fri Sep 21 15:45:10 2001
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X-Path: hotmail.com!createglass
From: "Larry ." <createglass@hotmail.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
Subject: Re: mobiles
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 22:11:52 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@hotmail.com>
Precedence: bulk

Hi Faith,

I have made several stained glass mobiles... and sold them all.  I'm sure 
theres no one way to do them, but this is how I do it.

I use electrical wiring.  The big stuff... the kind you'd use on a house.  
(I apologize, but I don't know for sure what gauge to call it.)  But it 
comes encased in a rubber sheath... 2 or 3 nice fat strands inside... and I 
just strip 'em.   They're just rigid enough that I can straighten them and 
they stay that way, even supporting my glass.

Once I've stripped them, cut 'em into pieces the size you want.  I use a 
pair of needle nose pliers to create a loop on each end of my measured 
pieces.  Then I use the needle nose again to create a raised notch in the 
middle.

I use tiger tail wire with crimp beads (easy to find at Michaels or Hobby 
Lobby in the bead crafting aisle) to hang glass pieces from the wire beams.  
And I use a diamond head drill to create holes in the glass I need to hang.

I'm sure you'll get lots of creative ideas from this group.  I'm looking 
forward to 'em myself!

Larry



>From: FAITH BISCHOFF <hobiebis@yahoo.com>
>To: glass@bungi.com
>Subject: mobiles
>Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 05:42:54 -0700 (PDT)
>
>
>Hello
>
>Anyone have experience in making stained glass mobiles?  I would like some 
>instructions.  Like what to use for rods to hang from or any ideas anyone 
>might have
>
>Thanks
>
>Faith
>
>
>
>---------------------------------
>Terrorist Attacks on U.S. - How can you help?
>Donate cash, emergency relief information inYahoo! News.


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From owner-glass Fri Sep 21 16:37:33 2001
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From: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@home.com>
To: Roxie1024@aol.com
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Subject: Re: mobiles
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 14:47:18 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>>
Organization: glassdancer
Precedence: bulk

well...Ive made one or two.
I just played around, used copperfoil, and wrapped copper wire not
around the perimeter of the glass, but literally around the glass as
decoratively as possible, and used funky shapes of glass, etc...

It'll take me too long to describe what I did.  I'll take a digital pic
of one I have here, and post it online this after noon and show you.

You may not like what I did.

Those little brass fishing swivel dealies would be great to use also
rather than just regular jump rings....and then the glass could spin.

Also...here are some to look at.  (I didnt make these)

http://www.stainedglassmobiles.com/

Suzanne
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From owner-glass Fri Sep 21 18:02:36 2001
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Subject: PS
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 15:06:44 -0500
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I didnt dust it before taking the pictures...the patina looks better
under all that dust! ;o)

Suzanne
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From: "Marci" <mmam5@doorpi.net>
To: "FAITH BISCHOFF" <hobiebis@yahoo.com>, <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: Re: mobiles
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 20:55:19 -0500
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------=_NextPart_000_0022_01C142DF.B90160A0
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Hi Faith,

I've only made a couple mobiles myself - one was a mallard - I used a =
small dowell to hang him from and the string/wire was from a hobby shop =
- - It's a fairly strong but thin black string . . .  The strings are =
tied to small rings which are soldered onto the stained glass piece.

Here's a link to a picture of it .  =
http://www.mmartindesigns.com/images/Duck1.jpg

Hope that help out.  I know you can buy kits from Stained Glass shops =
that have all the "fixin's" to make mobiles also.

Marci
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: FAITH BISCHOFF=20
  To: glass@bungi.com=20
  Sent: Friday, September 21, 2001 7:42 AM
  Subject: mobiles


  Hello

  Anyone have experience in making stained glass mobiles?  I would like =
some instructions.  Like what to use for rods to hang from or any ideas =
anyone might have

  Thanks

  Faith





-------------------------------------------------------------------------=
-----
  Terrorist Attacks on U.S. - How can you help?=20
  Donate cash, emergency relief information in Yahoo! News.

------=_NextPart_000_0022_01C142DF.B90160A0
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4616.200" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Hi Faith,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I've only made a couple mobiles myself =
- one was a=20
mallard - I used a small dowell to hang him from and the string/wire was =
from a=20
hobby shop - - It's a fairly strong but thin black string . . .&nbsp; =
The=20
strings are tied to small rings which are soldered onto the stained =
glass=20
piece.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Here's a link to a picture of it =
.&nbsp; <A=20
href=3D"http://www.mmartindesigns.com/images/Duck1.jpg">http://www.mmarti=
ndesigns.com/images/Duck1.jpg</A></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Hope that help out.&nbsp; I know you =
can buy kits=20
from Stained Glass shops that have all the "fixin's" to make mobiles=20
also.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Marci</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A title=3Dhobiebis@yahoo.com href=3D"mailto:hobiebis@yahoo.com">FAITH =

  BISCHOFF</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=3Dglass@bungi.com=20
  href=3D"mailto:glass@bungi.com">glass@bungi.com</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Friday, September 21, =
2001 7:42=20
  AM</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> mobiles</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV>
  <P>Hello</P>
  <P>Anyone have experience in making stained glass mobiles?&nbsp; I =
would like=20
  some instructions.&nbsp; Like what to use for rods to hang from or any =
ideas=20
  anyone might have</P>
  <P>Thanks</P>
  <P>Faith</P>
  <P><BR>
  <HR SIZE=3D1>
  <B>Terrorist Attacks on U.S. - How can you help? </B><BR>Donate cash,=20
  emergency relief information in <A=20
  =
href=3D"http://rd.yahoo.com/mail_us/tag/?http://dailynews.yahoo.com/fc/US=
/Emergency_Information/">Yahoo!=20
  News</A>.</BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-glass Sat Sep 22 01:04:43 2001
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	for rglass-42; Sat, 22 Sep 2001 00:57:47 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: home.com!gunnx4
From: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@home.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Mobile
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 15:05:42 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>
Organization: glassdancer
Precedence: bulk

Ok...if you wanna see a mobile I made...
 
http://www.villagesoftsmith.com/glassdancer/mobile.jpg
http://www.villagesoftsmith.com/glassdancer/mobile2.jpg
http://www.villagesoftsmith.com/glassdancer/mobilecloseup.jpg

There is a lot of weight that solder and jumprings alone would not be
able to support.  There is a lot of copper wire used here.

The top heart is completely wrapped in copper wire, the jump ring is not
a jump ring it is a loop in the wire that surrounds the entire top
heart,
The same peice of wire runs below that heart over the top of the peice
of glass under that, and is then wrapped around that peice of glass! 
Maybe it was over kill...but I dont think so, I think it really needed
that strength.

It also goes down and surrounds the middle heart that connects the
bottom
long piece of glass.  The hearts overlaid on either side are soldered to
the strip of glass, and also to each other, and wire is also used again
to reinforce.

The little hearts were all hand cut, then just wrapped in foil and tap
soldered.  I used jump rings to attach those, though as you can see, I
could use some help in tying knotd in the fish  line I used.

This hangs in my living room.  If I was going to sell it, I would look
for something else other than the fish line cause it looks poopy up
close.  However hanging where it does you dont notice the string.

Yep...my living room walls are holly hock red.

Hope this gives you some ideas.  This was just a day that I played and
just started cutting some glass, I think I drew a pattern for the
hearts, the rest is just cut here and there...

to figure where to hang it you just need to hold a peice with your
fingers lightly and see where the balance is.

Suzanne
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From owner-glass Sat Sep 22 06:34:13 2001
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	for rglass-42; Sat, 22 Sep 2001 06:22:38 -0700 (PDT)
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X-Path: aol.com!WaynLinda
From: WaynLinda@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: polishing finished projects
Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001 09:17:26 EDT
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>
Precedence: bulk

I am new to stained glass, but I really love all the info I get from this 
group!

Something that has worked for me in the past is: using a shoe polishing brush 
to polish a finished project. Sometimes after you apply patina and some of 
those polishes, it is hard to get all the dried polish off, especially if you 
are using a textured glass. The buffing action of the brush really helps get 
in all those little places and is easy to use!

By the way, I am looking for a jack-o'-lantern pattern if anyone has one and 
I don't have to buy a book!

Thanks for all the tips,
Linda
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From owner-glass Sat Sep 22 07:04:08 2001
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	for rglass-42; Sat, 22 Sep 2001 06:51:12 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: home.com!gunnx4
From: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@home.com>
To: "Larry ." <createglass@hotmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: mobiles
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 20:38:40 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@hotmail.com>>
Organization: glassdancer
Precedence: bulk

I sent an email at around 3 that still hasnt shown up...wonder if it is
in cyber never never land?
Since  I dont know if it will ever show up...I just cut an pasted it
onto this one.  If you get this one and the original one, I apologise.

Here is a mobile I made.

http://www.villagesoftsmith.com/glassdancer/mobile.jpg
http://www.villagesoftsmith.com/glassdancer/mobile2.jpg
http://www.villagesoftsmith.com/glassdancer/mobilecloseup.jpg

There is a lot of weight that solder and jumprings alone would not be
able to support.  There is a lot of copper wire used here.

The top heart is completely wrapped in copper wire, the jump ring is not
a jump ring it is a loop in the wire that surrounds the entire top
heart,
The same peice of wire runs below that heart over the top of the peice
of glass under that, and is then wrapped around that peice of glass! 
Maybe it was over kill...but I dont think so, I think it really needed
that strength.

It also goes down and surrounds the middle heart that connects the
bottom
long piece of glass.  The hearts overlaid on either side are soldered to
the strip of glass, and also to each other, and wire is also used again
to reinforce.

The little hearts were all hand cut, then just wrapped in foil and tap
soldered.  I used jump rings to attach those, though as you can see, I
could use some help in tying knotd in the fish  line I used.

This hangs in my living room.  If I was going to sell it, I would look
for something else other than the fish line cause it looks poopy up
close.  However hanging where it does you dont notice the string.

Yep...my living room walls are holly hock red.

Hope this gives you some ideas.  This was just a day that I played and
just started cutting some glass, I think I drew a pattern for the
hearts, the rest is just cut here and there...

to figure where to hang it you just need to hold a peice with your
fingers lightly and see where the balance is.

Suzanne
----
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From owner-glass Sat Sep 22 11:33:47 2001
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	for rglass-42; Sat, 22 Sep 2001 11:02:49 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: mindspring.com!rcollins1
From: Bob Collins <rcollins1@mindspring.com>
To: WaynLinda@aol.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: polishing finished projects - One Step further
Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001 11:58:23 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@mindspring.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>>
Organization: CSC, Inc.
Precedence: bulk

My daughter gave me a Black and Decker shoe polisher for Xmas a number of years
ago. Now since I retired and am no longer wearing Spit Polished wingtips I have
been using my ex shoepolisher for my glass polisher. It works just great and very
little elbow grease is needed.


WaynLinda@aol.com wrote:

> I am new to stained glass, but I really love all the info I get from this
> group!
>
> Something that has worked for me in the past is: using a shoe polishing brush
> to polish a finished project. Sometimes after you apply patina and some of
> those polishes, it is hard to get all the dried polish off, especially if you
> are using a textured glass. The buffing action of the brush really helps get
> in all those little places and is easy to use!
>
> By the way, I am looking for a jack-o'-lantern pattern if anyone has one and
> I don't have to buy a book!
>
> Thanks for all the tips,
> Linda
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

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From owner-glass Sat Sep 22 12:37:10 2001
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	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: aol.com!CWicks6159
From: CWicks6159@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Jack-O-Lattern Pattern
Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001 15:15:11 EDT
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>
Precedence: bulk

To the person who was looking for a pattern maybe this will help.
On the Delhi site they have a free pumpkin pattern which could be modified 
for you needs.

Cyndie
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From owner-glass Sun Sep 23 13:36:49 2001
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X-Path: aol.com!CWicks6159
From: CWicks6159@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Pumpkin Pattern
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2001 15:06:39 EDT
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>
Precedence: bulk

My apologizes to all and especially to the person who wanted the pattern of a 
pumpkin.  I goofed up the site name just a little......

Log onto Delphiglass.com.  Go to the free patterns on home page under the 
category of Holiday Lamps.

The pumpkin pattern is there.  Again my apologizes.

Cyndie
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From owner-glass Sun Sep 23 16:38:35 2001
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X-Path: aol.com!UserDusty
From: UserDusty@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_80.1085858b.28dfbe09_boundary"
Subject: Re: Jeep New info
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2001 18:36:57 EDT
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>
Precedence: bulk


--part1_80.1085858b.28dfbe09_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Hi All,

I messed up.  There was a lady looking for a pattern for a jeep. I suggested 
that she could print a coloring book picture of her scanned image.  This 
would produce a line image of her picture without the color.  She responded 
and I told her to check her printer manual.  I apologize for any 
inconvenience but I told her wrong.  I'm using Printmaster 10 and that is a 
feature dedicated to that program. In Printmaster the coloring book can only 
be done if the image is saved in a cgm file format.  If you use a desktop 
publisher open your program and press f1 this usually brings up the help 
files.  In the index or search type in coloring book.  If your program has 
the feature it will tell you what file formats it will work in. Again I 
apologize.

Good Luck,

Ken O.
  

--part1_80.1085858b.28dfbe09_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>Hi All,
<BR>
<BR>I messed up. &nbsp;There was a lady looking for a pattern for a jeep. I suggested that she could print a coloring book picture of her scanned image. &nbsp;This would produce a line image of her picture without the color. &nbsp;She responded and I told her to check her printer manual. &nbsp;I apologize for any inconvenience but I told her wrong. &nbsp;I'm using Printmaster 10 and that is a feature dedicated to that program. In Printmaster the coloring book can only be done if the image is saved in a cgm file format. &nbsp;If you use a desktop publisher open your program and press f1 this usually brings up the help files. &nbsp;In the index or search type in coloring book. &nbsp;If your program has the feature it will tell you what file formats it will work in. Again I apologize.
<BR>
<BR>Good Luck,
<BR>
<BR>Ken O.
<BR> &nbsp;</FONT></HTML>

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From owner-glass Sun Sep 23 17:42:31 2001
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X-Path: 2wongs.com!close
From: "close@2wongs.com" <close@2wongs.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/html; charset="ISO-8859-1"
Subject: Excess Merchandise
Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001 16:02:24 -0759
Message-ID: <m15lJjH-00003dC@daver.bungi.com>
Precedence: bulk


<html>

<head>
<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=windows-1252">
<meta http-equiv="Content-Language" content="en-us">


<title>Home</title>
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<body background="kdbkgnd.jpg" bgcolor="#FFFFCC" text="#003399" link="#0000FF" vlink="#CC0000" alink="#FF9900"  ><!--mstheme--><font face="Comic Sans MS, Arial, Helvetica">






      <p>&nbsp;</p>


      <p align="center"> <font size="7">We buy closeouts</font><br>
      <font size="4" color="#FF0000"><b>If you have excess product to sell, fax
      or email us the information</b></font> </p>


      <p align="center"> Email to&nbsp; <a href="mailto:closeout@2wongs.com">closeout@2wongs.com</a> </p>
<!--mstheme--></font>
      <h2 align="center"><!--mstheme--><font face="Comic Sans MS, Arial, Helvetica" color="#3300CC">------------------------<br>
      <font size="6">Wong and Wong</font><br>
      <font size="4" color="#FF0000">Liquidators of Excess Merchandise<br>
      </font><!--mstheme--></font></h2>

<!--mstheme--><font face="Comic Sans MS, Arial, Helvetica">

      <dl>
        <dt><strong>Telephone</strong> </dt>
        <dd>818-608-0390</dd>
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From owner-glass Sun Sep 23 22:02:59 2001
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X-Path: juno.com!pkinnetz
From: Peggy L Kinnetz <pkinnetz@juno.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: Jack-0-lantern idea
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2001 10:45:35 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@juno.com>
Precedence: bulk

For the person who is looking for a jack-o-lantern pattern, here's a site
that has a bunch of clip art images that might be modified for a pattern.
I downloaded a bunch and am going to try and fiddle with a couple,
myself, if I get a chance.  

Peggy K.


http://www.backyardgardener.com/pump1.html
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From owner-glass Mon Sep 24 10:01:42 2001
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X-Path: scc.net!oddjob
From: Sue Reitmann <oddjob@scc.net>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Jeep pattern book
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 09:44:52 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@scc.net>
Precedence: bulk

There is a pattern for a Jeep in the book entitled "Rev-It-Up II ". It also contains patterns for other classic cars.
Sue

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From owner-glass Mon Sep 24 10:31:14 2001
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X-Path: auto.com!robin
From: "Robin Ellison - Auto And Parts, LLC" <robin@auto.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: bi plane pattern for panel
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 10:12:52 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@auto.com>
Organization: Auto and Parts.Com
Precedence: bulk

hi,
i need a bi-plane or any airplane panel if anyone has one. i have
hundreds of
patterns i can scan and trade.
thanks
robin

--
********************************************************
Thank You
Robin Ellison
Auto & Parts... http://www.autoandparts.com
1-888-977-1999
Automotive Internet Services that get RESULTS !!
Auto & Parts provides internet solutions exclusively for
the Auto Recycling Industry. Offering used part locating
systems for buying & selling , web site design, hosting
and maintenance at a reasonable cost.
AOL FRIENDLY LINK
<a href="http://autoandparts.com">Auto And Parts</a>



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From owner-glass Mon Sep 24 14:43:59 2001
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X-Path: aol.com!WaynLinda
From: WaynLinda@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: pumpkin clip art  web site
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 07:12:27 EDT
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>
Precedence: bulk

http://www.backyardgardener.com/pump1.html
Wow that is a great clip art web site
Thanks,
Linda
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From owner-glass Mon Sep 24 17:21:56 2001
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X-Path: vsnl.com!bajoria
From: "Ashish Bajoria" <bajoria@vsnl.com>
To: "Glass Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/mixed;
Subject: wall bracket 
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 11:46:37 +0530
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@vsnl.com>
Precedence: bulk

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0026_01C144EE.9164EBA0
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	boundary="----=_NextPart_001_0027_01C144EE.9164EBA0"


------=_NextPart_001_0027_01C144EE.9164EBA0
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hi there !
can anybody guide me to making a tiffany style wall bracket lamp, like the
picture enclosed here?
thanks for the help!
regards
Ashish Bajoria


------=_NextPart_001_0027_01C144EE.9164EBA0
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<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN class=3D700231306-24092001>hi =
there=20
!</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN class=3D700231306-24092001>can =
anybody guide me=20
to making a tiffany style wall bracket lamp, like the picture enclosed=20
here?</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN class=3D700231306-24092001>thanks =
for the=20
help!</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D700231306-24092001>regards</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN class=3D700231306-24092001>Ashish =

Bajoria</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
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------=_NextPart_000_0026_01C144EE.9164EBA0--

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From owner-glass Mon Sep 24 20:14:45 2001
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	for rglass-42; Mon, 24 Sep 2001 19:30:57 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: mindspring.com!rcollins1
From: Bob Collins <rcollins1@mindspring.com>
To: "Robin Ellison - Auto And Parts, LLC" <robin@auto.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: bi plane pattern for panel
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 19:54:29 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@mindspring.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@auto.com>>
Organization: CSC, Inc.
Precedence: bulk

Robin I sent you 3 Bip patterns and they all came back. What is you
correct e-mail address?

    Bob


"Robin Ellison - Auto And Parts, LLC" wrote:

> hi,
> i need a bi-plane or any airplane panel if anyone has one. i have
> hundreds of
> patterns i can scan and trade.
> thanks
> robin
>
> --
> ********************************************************
> Thank You
> Robin Ellison
> Auto & Parts... http://www.autoandparts.com
> 1-888-977-1999
> Automotive Internet Services that get RESULTS !!
> Auto & Parts provides internet solutions exclusively for
> the Auto Recycling Industry. Offering used part locating
> systems for buying & selling , web site design, hosting
> and maintenance at a reasonable cost.
> AOL FRIENDLY LINK
> <a href="http://autoandparts.com">Auto And Parts</a>
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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From owner-glass Tue Sep 25 12:59:18 2001
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	for rglass-42; Tue, 25 Sep 2001 12:53:43 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: t-online.de!evapoh
From: evapoh@t-online.de (evapoh)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: multipart/mixed;
Subject: Gatewayed mail message
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 13:18:27 +0200
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@t>
Precedence: bulk

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_00FE_01FD501E.B5601E40
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Tel: 0611 1605-0,  0611 160524 
Fax: 0611 160560 

„the owner“	Hubert `d yordel tiroler ski lehrer. „hi“-altitude wanderer

Leiter		Micheal Hines  „Micha“
Tim
Secretar	Pamela „Pam“ sectri
Schichtleiter 	„Vladi“
„Haji“
Küchen Chef	Gabriel  0174 9905876
Koch 		Kai
Azhmed R
Jenny
Bah Seh
Andrè
Spuler 		Azhmed U
Jakob
Hausmeister 	Micheal Hauzi 
Bediennung	Karo
Jasmin
Bobby
Miguel
Mamoud
Mozza Esel
Mike
Nicole
Nadine


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From owner-glass Tue Sep 25 15:01:46 2001
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	for rglass-42; Tue, 25 Sep 2001 14:30:11 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: softhouse.com!giapet
From: "Karen K" <giapet@softhouse.com>
To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Posting attachments?
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 21:27:20 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@softhouse.com>
Precedence: bulk

Has bungi changed & now allowing attachments to be sent to the list?
Sure have been lots of them lately.

Okay, know we're not suppose to send attachments or posts in mime
format.......just politely wanted to bring it up for those who are not
aware of it.

Karen




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From owner-glass Tue Sep 25 18:01:43 2001
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	for rglass-42; Tue, 25 Sep 2001 17:51:57 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: home.com!gunnx4
From: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@home.com>
To: Karen K <giapet@softhouse.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Posting attachments?
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 17:18:40 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@softhouse.com>>
Organization: glassdancer
Precedence: bulk

I don't think it has ever changed, I think we just have some new members
who aren't aware that attachments aren't allowed.

Part of the reason that they aren't allowed (for those that don't know)
is that some of our members are not in the states and pay for their
internet connections much differently that we do in the states.

They pay for the amount they download, I believe.  I never send pictures
or files to someone not in Europe without their first saying they want
me to.

Suzanne

Karen K wrote:
> 
> Has bungi changed & now allowing attachments to be sent to the list?
> Sure have been lots of them lately.
> 
> Okay, know we're not suppose to send attachments or posts in mime
> format.......just politely wanted to bring it up for those who are not
> aware of it.
> 
> Karen
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From owner-glass Wed Sep 26 01:02:20 2001
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	for rglass-42; Wed, 26 Sep 2001 00:52:35 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: mindspring.com!rcollins1
From: Bob Collins <rcollins1@mindspring.com>
To: "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Bip Patterns
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 20:55:42 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@mindspring.com>
Organization: CSC, Inc.
Precedence: bulk

    Robin I sent you 3 Bip Patterns they all came back to me. What is
you e-mail address?

    Bob

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From owner-glass Wed Sep 26 10:45:38 2001
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	for rglass-42; Wed, 26 Sep 2001 10:31:43 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: vsnl.com!bajoria
From: <bajoria@vsnl.com>
To: "Karen K" <giapet@softhouse.com>, "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: RE: Posting attachments?
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 02:55 +0000
Message-ID: <20010926025517.BC35B10BBB@giascl01.vsnl.net.in>
Precedence: bulk

I'm sorry for the attachment guys! didnt know abt it !
ashish

----Original Message-----
   >From:     =09"Karen K" <giapet@softhouse.com>
   >To:         =09"Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
   >Subject:     =09Posting attachments?
   >Date:    =09Tuesday, September 25, 2001 6:57 AM
   >
   >Has bungi changed & now allowing attachments to be sent to the list?
   >Sure have been lots of them lately.
   >
   >Okay, know we're not suppose to send attachments or posts in mime
   >format.......just politely wanted to bring it up for those who are not
   >aware of it.
   >
   >Karen
   >
   >
   >
   >
   >----
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   >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
   >
   >

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From owner-glass Wed Sep 26 13:56:31 2001
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	for rglass-42; Wed, 26 Sep 2001 13:44:47 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: communityconnexion.com!online-owner
From: Community Connexion Online <publisher@communityconnexion.com>
To: online@communityconnexion.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Community ConneXion Online
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 12:51:21 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@communityconnexion.com>
Precedence: bulk

Community ConneXion Online - Newsletter
________________________________________________________________
 
Special Event information, Special FREE offer and subscribe/unsubscribe
instructions below

Make Peace not War!   Check out www.commondreams.org

A CALL TO ACTION FOR PEACE

Our government has stolen from us the time to grieve.

They have made it clear they want war -- on anyone, at any price, with
seemingly no thought for the consequences.

Government officials speak openly of going after "high-value" targets
such as capital cities in countries that "harbor" terrorists. There are
calls for carpet-bombing a country of 25 million people. In a world
where no objections are raised in the halls of power to such plans, our
task is clear:

We must fight for the soul of our nation. We have no choice but to begin

speaking out and organizing for peace as we grieve. The best way we can
honor those who have died is to make sure no more innocents are killed,
here or abroad.

If we win, there is the possibility of a new movement for peace, a new
hope for justice. If we lose, the escalating cycle of hatred may usher
in a new era of unending war.

Officials think they have the support of an angry, blood-thirsty public,

and many in the United States are calling for vengeance. But there is
also great fear, not just for our own safety but for what such a war
will unleash in the world.

Military actions that kill civilians will also multiply tenfold the
number of people willing to die to wreak havoc on the United States. We
have already paid a terrible price. What will happen when we arouse
further anger with a blatantly unjust and destructive retaliation?

Many, even in the peace movement, are saying, "Now is not the time to
talk politics; the country needs time to heal."

Just the reverse is true: Now is the time, before it is too late.

We have already seen spontaneous demonstrations of thousands of people
across the country. There is new interest in the consequences of our
foreign policy. People are listening.

Now is the time: For action. For organization. For change.

Organizations that want to sign onto this call should write to
worker-nowar@lists.tao.ca.

In Solidarity, The Nowar Collective www.nowarcollective.com

Although our leaders are under tremendous pressure to act in the
aftermath of the terrible events of Sept. 11th, it's important to
let them know that we support justice, not escalating violence,
which would only play into the terrorists' hands.

I hope you'll join us in signing an online statement of support
for "Justice, not Terror" at:

   http://www.moveon.org/justice/

----------------------------------------------------------------

One Angel's "We Wonder"
http://www.oneangel.net/Cards/just/wonder/child.html


***** SUNDAY *** CELEBRATION *****
-------------------------------------------------
 ======  In  The  Spirit  Of  Aloha  ======
-------------------------------------------------
When:  Sunday, September 30, 2001
 What: Candle Lighting Ceremony * featuring
            Susan Luning from Hawaii
            Potluck, Special Music, Rhythm Instruments
Time:    6:00 pm potluck, 7:00 pm program
Where: Cascade Gardens Community,
            3405 SW 106th, Beaverton, OR
            between Walker Rd. & Canyon Rd.
See map at  http://www.conneXion.org/GARDENS
!!!Extra parking across the street at the Elks Club!!!
Contact John Poling for information 503-643-8382

----------------------------------------------------
   CANCELLATION  of   the   Khenpos  EVENT
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The visit of "the Khenpos," two of the greatest Nyingma lamas in the
world,
scheduled for September 27-29th in Portland, has been canceled due to
the
recent world events. The Khenpos have founded the PadmaSambhava Buddhist

Center, which meets every Sunday at 1pm at 3717 SE Washington St.
Hopefully, the Khenpos will visit Portland in the spring. Please call
(503) 234-6480  for further information.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

BLUE MOON HALLOWEEN PARTY, WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 31st
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Cascade "Gardens" Community  presents the 7th annual Halloween
Costume Party and Pot Luck Dinner at 6:30 pm Halloween Evening.
We will honor the rare "BLUE" full moon at 9:41 pm (this is the 2nd
full moon in October). Enjoy Special "Sing-A-Long" Music and Rhythm
Instruments and don't forget to bring your drums and a friend too!

See our web site for map and contact information or call 503-643-8382
http://www.conneXion.org/GARDENS

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

To subscribe a friend or to unsubscribe your self, go to
http://www.conneXion.org
See our FREE directory listing and classified offer, click on the
List&Link button
Use our SEARCH engine for WWW and our LINX directory of conscious
resources


________________________________________________________________
At any time that you wish to cancel your FREE newsletter subscription, go to http://www.connexion.org and click "unsubscribe" in the newsletter box.
----
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From owner-glass Thu Sep 27 21:34:07 2001
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	for rglass-42; Thu, 27 Sep 2001 21:16:38 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #534 built 2001-Jul-23)
X-Path: pacifier.com!ptap
From: Pamela Burns-Tappan <ptap@pacifier.com>
To: "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Shirley Balloch
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 19:15:17 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@pacifier.com>
Precedence: bulk

Shirley are you still with Bungi? If not does anyone have her updated
email addy? Howard Weaver you perhaps?

Thanks,

Pam

--

Ms. Pamela Burns-Tappan
SGA Executive Director
http://stainedglassartists.com


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From owner-glass Thu Sep 27 23:02:04 2001
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From: mim111@webtv.net
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Community Connexion e-mail
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 20:58:26 -0400 (EDT)
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What is the connection between that 
 group and yours?

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From owner-glass Fri Sep 28 04:02:27 2001
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X-Path: pacifier.com!ptap
From: Pamela Burns-Tappan <ptap@pacifier.com>
To: "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Shirley Balloch
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 01:43:04 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@pacifier.com>
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Precedence: bulk

Shirley has contacted me....thanks!

Pam



Pamela Burns-Tappan wrote:

> Shirley are you still with Bungi? If not does anyone have her updated
> email addy? Howard Weaver you perhaps?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Pam
>
> --
>
> Ms. Pamela Burns-Tappan
> SGA Executive Director
> http://stainedglassartists.com
>
> ----
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Ms. Pamela Burns-Tappan
SGA Executive Director
http://stainedglassartists.com


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From owner-glass Sat Sep 29 09:37:13 2001
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From: Peggy L Kinnetz <pkinnetz@juno.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: Safety glasses and lighting (seeing your work)
Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2001 12:03:53 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@juno.com>
Precedence: bulk

Well, I was cleaning shop yesterday, and came up on a few questions
hiding in the dust (both figuratively and literally).  

1. I noticed that my safety glasses have a couple of scratches on them,
again. I have come to think of glasses as disposable items, as they get
so scratched so easily. I really hate working in scratched up lens, so
end up buying these pretty frequently.  Do you all have the same problem?
 I have gone to the really inexpensive ones for cost saving reasons, but
have wondered if the more expensive ones are more resisant to scratching?
What brands have you found to be most scratch resistant?  which ones have
the most distortion free vision?  

Has anyone come up with a good way to protect glasses, yet be handy to
grab,  when not being worn?  I thought I might try to make some sort of
stiff holder made of fleece (stiff, to aid in getting it in and out) 
that could hang off my table, to drop them into when I finish, but I
would think it needs to be washable too. But if it hangs off the side,
its also a catcher for glass bits & crud, too. Ideas?

2. Second question, which also relates to being able to see your work, is
about lighting.  I'm having trouble with my 2 shop lights--trying to get
it to light. They're florescent 48" tubes, basic ceiling hung kind. they
don't seem to come on real well, sometimes not at all. The light they
give off is dim, not like the strong light that they used to put off. I
changed the tubes, thinking they might be burning out, but still have the
same problem. Suggestions on how to fix the problem? Or ditch it and get
other fixtures?

 What kinds of lightling do you find to be best in a basement? I'd love
to have daylight, but that's just not a possibility now.  I recently got
a halogen light shop light (three little tubes spaced over the same
length as the 48" ceiling light, but it seems a little yellow in hue,
compared to the flourescent lighting that I had.  But at least it comes
on.  How much light does one need?  Or should I just hire an electrician
to put in some ceiling lights, rather than deal with all the shop lights?
this basement just came with three little bulb fixures, which isn't
enough to make it across the room safely w/o supplementary lighting.

I've got other questions, but I'll try to group them in subject matter,
over the next couple of weeks. Thanks in advance, 'cause I know I'll get
some great help. 
Peggy K.
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From owner-glass Sat Sep 29 17:07:07 2001
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Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_b9.1479f381.28e7b3e6_boundary"
Subject: Re: Safety glasses and lighting (seeing your work)
Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2001 19:31:50 EDT
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>
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I have three distinct separate areas in my workshop.  Each are of different 
heights for different purposes.  Attached to each table in these separate 
areas, I have those architect lamps, each with a 75 watt bulb, with large 
swing-arm capabilities.  This way, each area is lighted only when doing that 
particular step in stained glass.  
(1) Regular desk height where I sit to peruse ideas, do art work, glue 
patterns or foil.
(2) Grinder and cutting, standup area, where the lamp can be swung over 
either application for better viewing.  (3) Standup, layout area for 
soldering of pieces.  In the room, there is also one overhead light....which, 
most of the time, I don't even use....well, maybe when I have to do cleanup 
in the studio.
          This kind of spotlight lighting has grown with me over the years.  
It works because of the concentration of light right over the particular 
workplace.  Especially over the grinder area.  Sometimes, on a particular 
piece of glass you might be grinding (because of shape or size) reflections 
from the safety shield (we all have one of those right?) interfer with 
viewing...and you simply "swing" the arm of the lamp for adjustment.  This 
type of lighting arrangement does it for me.
                                                      Lavergne

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>I have three distinct separate areas in my workshop. &nbsp;Each are of different heights for different purposes. &nbsp;Attached to each table in these separate areas, I have those architect lamps, each with a 75 watt bulb, with large swing-arm capabilities. &nbsp;This way, each area is lighted only when doing that particular step in stained glass. &nbsp;
<BR><B>(1)</B> Regular desk height where<B> I sit</B> to peruse ideas, do art work, glue patterns or foil.
<BR><B>(2)</B> Grinder and cutting, <B>standup area</B>, where the lamp can be swung over either application for better viewing. &nbsp;<B>(3) Standup, layout</B> area for soldering of pieces. &nbsp;In the room, there is also one overhead light....which, most of the time, I don't even use....well, maybe when I have to do cleanup in the studio.
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;This kind of spotlight lighting has grown with me over the years. &nbsp;It works because of the concentration of light right over the particular workplace. &nbsp;Especially over the grinder area. &nbsp;Sometimes, on a particular piece of glass you might be grinding (because of shape or size) reflections from the safety shield (we all have one of those right?) interfer with viewing...and you simply "swing" the arm of the lamp for adjustment. &nbsp;This type of lighting arrangement does it for me.
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Lavergne</FONT></HTML>

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From owner-glass Sat Sep 29 17:17:02 2001
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From: "Kris" <kristc@home.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Safety glasses and lighting (seeing your work)
Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2001 16:22:44 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@juno.com>>
Precedence: bulk

I lay my safety glasses on their side on top of my grinder. They seem safe
there and I can't grind without picking them up (and when I have done that I
may as well put them on my face). I've had them for years and they seem
fine. My main problem is they steam up in hot weather after awhile.

Check Wal-Mart or Home Depot or whatever is similar in your area. They
should have florescent light fixtures you can put up yourself. They use a
standard outlet and shouldn't break your budget either. Our Home Depot is
also really nice about giving you ideas for your particular situation so ask
them for input.

Kris

----- Original Message -----
From: "Peggy L Kinnetz" <pkinnetz@juno.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 29, 2001 12:03 PM
Subject: Safety glasses and lighting (seeing your work)


> Well, I was cleaning shop yesterday, and came up on a few questions
> hiding in the dust (both figuratively and literally).
>
> 1. I noticed that my safety glasses have a couple of scratches on them,
> again. I have come to think of glasses as disposable items, as they get
> so scratched so easily. I really hate working in scratched up lens, so
> end up buying these pretty frequently.  Do you all have the same problem?
>  I have gone to the really inexpensive ones for cost saving reasons, but
> have wondered if the more expensive ones are more resisant to scratching?
> What brands have you found to be most scratch resistant?  which ones have
> the most distortion free vision?
>
> Has anyone come up with a good way to protect glasses, yet be handy to
> grab,  when not being worn?  I thought I might try to make some sort of
> stiff holder made of fleece (stiff, to aid in getting it in and out)
> that could hang off my table, to drop them into when I finish, but I
> would think it needs to be washable too. But if it hangs off the side,
> its also a catcher for glass bits & crud, too. Ideas?
>
> 2. Second question, which also relates to being able to see your work, is
> about lighting.  I'm having trouble with my 2 shop lights--trying to get
> it to light. They're florescent 48" tubes, basic ceiling hung kind. they
> don't seem to come on real well, sometimes not at all. The light they
> give off is dim, not like the strong light that they used to put off. I
> changed the tubes, thinking they might be burning out, but still have the
> same problem. Suggestions on how to fix the problem? Or ditch it and get
> other fixtures?
>
>  What kinds of lightling do you find to be best in a basement? I'd love
> to have daylight, but that's just not a possibility now.  I recently got
> a halogen light shop light (three little tubes spaced over the same
> length as the 48" ceiling light, but it seems a little yellow in hue,
> compared to the flourescent lighting that I had.  But at least it comes
> on.  How much light does one need?  Or should I just hire an electrician
> to put in some ceiling lights, rather than deal with all the shop lights?
> this basement just came with three little bulb fixures, which isn't
> enough to make it across the room safely w/o supplementary lighting.
>
> I've got other questions, but I'll try to group them in subject matter,
> over the next couple of weeks. Thanks in advance, 'cause I know I'll get
> some great help.
> Peggy K.
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>

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From owner-glass Sun Sep 30 13:02:53 2001
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Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_ae.1b8d1e33.28e8ce2d_boundary"
Subject: flux neutralizer
Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2001 15:36:13 EDT
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Hi Bungians!

Does anyone have a homebrew recipe for a flux neutralizer.
If you have one, you might also include a homebrew recipe for cutting oil.

Thanks,
Mike in Spokane

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=4>Hi Bungians!
<BR>
<BR>Does anyone have a homebrew recipe for a flux neutralizer.
<BR>If you have one, you might also include a homebrew recipe for cutting oil.
<BR>
<BR>Thanks,
<BR>Mike in Spokane</FONT></HTML>

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From owner-glass Sun Sep 30 14:55:10 2001
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From: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@home.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Safety glasses and lighting (seeing your work)
Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2001 16:33:30 -0500
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I hang my safety glass up over the splash guard of my grinder.
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From owner-glass Sun Sep 30 18:07:02 2001
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From: "Karen K" <giapet@softhouse.com>
To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>, <FuchsiaFan@aol.com>
Subject: Re: flux neutralizer
Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2001 20:54:44 -0400
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Nothing for flux neutralizer but have used mineral oil (very cheap) for
years without problems.

Karen
giapet@softhouse.com

> Hi Bungians!
>
> Does anyone have a homebrew recipe for a flux neutralizer.
> If you have one, you might also include a homebrew recipe for cutting
oil.
>
> Thanks,
> Mike in Spokane
>


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From owner-glass Sun Sep 30 19:40:07 2001
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From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
To: FuchsiaFan@aol.com, Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: Re: flux neutralizer
Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2001 21:21:10 -0400
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Organization: Grendel Studio
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--------------F6CE03B4EFAD2A85DBAD0321
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The home brew for cutting oil is kerosene (in GB maybe called gasoline?)
as in kerosene oil lamps, etc.  The whole idea of cutting oil is so that
the score stays open longer, and the glass doesn't "heal" and refill the
scored area.  That gives you a bit longer in which to break your score.
Not everyone uses a cutting oil. - Cec

FuchsiaFan@aol.com wrote:

> Hi Bungians!
>
> Does anyone have a homebrew recipe for a flux neutralizer.
> If you have one, you might also include a homebrew recipe for cutting
> oil.
>
> Thanks,
> Mike in Spokane

--------------F6CE03B4EFAD2A85DBAD0321
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<!doctype html public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en">
<html>
The home brew for cutting oil is kerosene (in GB maybe called gasoline?)
as in kerosene oil lamps, etc.&nbsp; The whole idea of cutting oil is so
that the score stays open longer, and the glass doesn't "heal" and refill
the scored area.&nbsp; That gives you a bit longer in which to break your
score.&nbsp; Not everyone uses a cutting oil. - Cec
<p>FuchsiaFan@aol.com wrote:
<blockquote TYPE=CITE><font face="arial,helvetica"><font size=+1>Hi Bungians!</font></font>
<p><font face="arial,helvetica"><font size=+1>Does anyone have a homebrew
recipe for a flux neutralizer.</font></font>
<br><font face="arial,helvetica"><font size=+1>If you have one, you might
also include a homebrew recipe for cutting oil.</font></font>
<p><font face="arial,helvetica"><font size=+1>Thanks,</font></font>
<br><font face="arial,helvetica"><font size=+1>Mike in Spokane</font></font></blockquote>
</html>

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From owner-glass Sun Sep 30 20:11:06 2001
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From: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@home.com>
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Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: flux neutralizer
Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2001 16:32:11 -0500
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1.baking soda and dawn dishwashing liquid.
2.kerosene.

Suzanne


FuchsiaFan@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Hi Bungians!
> 
> Does anyone have a homebrew recipe for a flux neutralizer.
> If you have one, you might also include a homebrew recipe for cutting
> oil.
> 
> Thanks,
> Mike in Spokane
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From owner-glass Sun Sep 30 20:19:23 2001
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From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: Re: Safety glasses and lighting (seeing your work)
Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2001 21:34:25 -0400
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--------------0FA9E689E2D84262DDE2A3A3
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I keep a cheap pair near every work area.  Dangle one from the grinder,
the saws, the cutting area, etc.  I'm constantly setting something down
and then can't find it when I need it.  This insures that I can probably
round up at least one pair when I need it.  Plus, instead of using my
prescription glasses and getting them scratched, I have a couple pairs
of the cheap grocery store/pharmacy magnifying glasses around with
different magnifications.  Ruining $20 dollar cheapies is WAY better
than $200 multifocal lenses! - Cec

PS - the light problem somebody described - you may need to replace the
starter or mast (fluorescent lighting only)  And using the halogen
lights:  Do not locate them where they shine into your eyes.  Plus they
run HOT!!!  Be certain they are not near anything that can burn or melt
- I melted (well - deformed) the grid on a grinder once when I left the
light on during dinner. - C

>

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<!doctype html public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en">
<html>
I keep a cheap pair near every work area.&nbsp; Dangle one from the grinder,
the saws, the cutting area, etc.&nbsp; I'm constantly setting something
down and then can't find it when I need it.&nbsp; This insures that I can
probably round up at least one pair when I need it.&nbsp; Plus, instead
of using my prescription glasses and getting them scratched, I have a couple
pairs of the cheap grocery store/pharmacy magnifying glasses around with
different magnifications.&nbsp; Ruining $20 dollar cheapies is WAY better
than $200 multifocal lenses! - Cec
<p>PS - the light problem somebody described - you may need to replace
the starter or mast (fluorescent lighting only)&nbsp; And using the halogen
lights:&nbsp; Do not locate them where they shine into your eyes.&nbsp;
Plus they run HOT!!!&nbsp; Be certain they are not near anything that can
burn or melt - I melted (well - deformed) the grid on a grinder once when
I left the light on during dinner. - C
<blockquote TYPE=CITE><a href="http://www.bungi.com/glass"></a>&nbsp;</blockquote>
</html>

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From owner-glass Sun Sep 30 22:28:46 2001
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From: Peggy L Kinnetz <pkinnetz@juno.com>
To: FuchsiaFan@aol.com, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: Re: flux neutralizer
Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2001 21:58:07 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@juno.com>
Precedence: bulk

Mike, I don't know if this qualifies but I just use a warm water bath, (I
use a large pot with about 2-3" of water) with dishwahing liquid (Dawn is
especially good, also JOY) with a good size dollop (about one
tablespoon?) of baking soda to neutralize the acid mixed in.  Amounts
don't seem to matter as much as getting your project into the water as
soon as possible after soldering to prevent corrosion. 

I just went through letting one piece sit for a few weeks, because I'd
soldered it backwards, and had to pull it apart, and resolder.  Lost
interest for awhile, and the piece turned green. I used a lot of elbow
grease with steel wool to get every last bit of the corrosion,
resoldered, but I guess the corrosion had gotten under the foil, and it
started to lift off the glass. Had to tear off all the old foil, refoil,
and re-solder for the third time. Taught me a very valuable lesson about
how nasty flux can be when you don't follow the correct procedures. 

Peggy K.

On Sun, 30 Sep 2001 15:36:13 EDT FuchsiaFan@aol.com writes:
> Hi Bungians!
> 
> Does anyone have a homebrew recipe for a flux neutralizer.
> If you have one, you might also include a homebrew recipe for 
> cutting oil.
> 
> Thanks,
> Mike in Spokane
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