Janine's Kidney Transplant Fund Website

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Thank you

------=_NextPart_000_0052_01C0C80A.1FA662C0-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Apr 18 16:52:19 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 18 Apr 2001 16:21:54 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #530 built 2001-Apr-11) X-Path: sprintmail.com!searun From: "Maureen & David Humphreys" To: , Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Re: Glass Saws Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 08:47:48 -0700 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@sprintmail.com> Precedence: bulk Carol, Two months ago I bought a Taurus 2 saw after researching the price/features and love it. As I shop by catalog a great deal of the time, I saw a good sale on it. I have doing glass art for about 8 years and really love the shapes I can cut now. For example, yesterday I made 12 Xmas items (small bulbs) and was delighted to see the saw cut the many needed pieces so well. Some grinding is still required (maybe I just fussing to much) but not much. Maybe it will give me a few more years from my first grinder I still have. I am sure there maybe other fine brands the list folks will offer up, but this one seemed the best for my use. Maureen -----Original Message----- From: slmyers@erinet.com To: glass@bungi.com Date: Wednesday, April 18, 2001 7:36 AM Subject: Glass Saws >Hi all, >I'm new here and started doing glass about 6 weeks ago. I took a couple of >adult ed. classes at Miami Univ. in Oxford Ohio and have really enjoyed >myself. > >I had the chance to use a saw in class and now I want one! Do you have any >suggestions as to what brand I should look at? I would love some pointers >from people who use the different kinds available. > >I would also like to know what brands and types of flux you all use. A basic >need, I know, but there are several brands out there and any tips are >appreciated. >Thanks for the help! :o) >Carol in Ohio > > >---- >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com >To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Apr 18 21:42:30 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 18 Apr 2001 21:11:04 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #530 built 2001-Apr-11) X-Path: mail2.nai.net!shad From: Family Account To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: Flux was Re: Glass Saws Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 20:16:18 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@mail2.nai.net> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@erinet.com>> Precedence: bulk slmyers@erinet.com wrote: > Hi all, > I'm new here and started doing glass about 6 weeks ago. I took a couple of > adult ed. classes at Miami Univ. in Oxford Ohio and have really enjoyed > myself. > > ,snip> > I would also like to know what brands and types of flux you all use. A basic > need, I know, but there are several brands out there and any tips are > appreciated. > Thanks for the help! :o) > Carol in Ohio Hi, Carol. I use all kinds of flux. My husband John loves the Nokorode paste, so we ALWAYS have that, but I like to try some kind of liquid flux around, too. I put it in a bottle with a drop spout and, once my pieces are lined up perfectly, then I can drip flux on it and tack solder. One less way to move the pieces. We find that rubbing alcohol cleans up the paste flux well. We kep the spray tops from window cleaner, These screw well onto the alcohol bottles. Flux is one the cheaper things in stained glass, so why not buy a couple of small containers and try them? You'll figure out what you like. Dorothy (who found a couple of her EARLY pieces of stained glass in the bottom drawer of her desk the other day -- but no longer has a window near her desk in her new office -- probably just as well.) ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Apr 19 18:21:10 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 19 Apr 2001 17:49:24 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #530 built 2001-Apr-11) X-Path: gdi.net!shodge From: Southern Exposure To: slmyers@erinet.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: AGSA Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 17:21:16 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@gdi.net> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@erinet.com>> Organization: Southern Exposure Precedence: bulk How many people are planning to attend the AGSA show at the end of JUNE? ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Apr 20 03:03:55 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 20 Apr 2001 02:40:31 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #530 built 2001-Apr-11) X-Path: exchange.DAYTONOH.NCR.com!DF125031 From: "Becker, Donna" To: slmyers@erinet.com Content-Type: text/plain Subject: RE: Glass Saws Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 11:42:10 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@exchange.DAYTONOH.NCR.com> Precedence: bulk Carol, I don't want to discourage you, really, but, you might want to give it some thought for a little longer. I bought a saw for a very difficult first project after doing glass for just a few weeks. I spent $300 on it, and haven't used it since. And it's been several years. I'm not trying to discourage you, but I've found that as I gain more experience, I can cut almost anything with a glass cutter, and maybe a little extra grinding. It's the grinder that you should really not go without. Get the normal grinding bit, and a small one that fits on top of it. I've also found that pieces that can only be cut with a saw, tend to break after the project is finished and hanging only a short while. As for the flux, that's easy. The best that I have found is GlassPro (not to be confused with GlasStar, which is not good) and the second best I've found is Fluxomatic. I won't use any flux but these two. The others I've used have a residue left while soldering, and don't leave the solder shiny. It really is a noticeable difference. Donna Becker donna.becker@chicagoil.ncr.com > -----Original Message----- > From: slmyers@erinet.com [SMTP:slmyers@erinet.com] > Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2001 8:10 AM > To: glass@bungi.com > Subject: Glass Saws > > Hi all, > I'm new here and started doing glass about 6 weeks ago. I took a couple of > adult ed. classes at Miami Univ. in Oxford Ohio and have really enjoyed > myself. > > I had the chance to use a saw in class and now I want one! Do you have any > suggestions as to what brand I should look at? I would love some pointers > from people who use the different kinds available. > > I would also like to know what brands and types of flux you all use. A > basic > need, I know, but there are several brands out there and any tips are > appreciated. > Thanks for the help! :o) > Carol in Ohio > > > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Apr 20 06:45:21 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 20 Apr 2001 06:14:18 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #530 built 2001-Apr-11) X-Path: erinet.com!slmyers From: slmyers@erinet.com To: Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Sodering Irons Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 09:01:12 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@erinet.com> Precedence: bulk I would like to thank all of you that replied to my saw and flux question. I am proceeding slowly on the saw and intend to give myself plenty of time to improve my cutting skills. Now I have another basic question. While it is inexpensive to try several different types of flux, it is rather the opposite with the irons. I received a Weller 100 in my starter kit. The problem is, it cycles automatically and I am left holding the iron, so to speak, until it decides it's hot enough to melt the solder. So, there are several seconds where I can't do anything but wait. It's very frustrating. I have been told not to use a rheostat with it. I am thinking maybe I need another iron. Could I have some opinions on different kinds? Are the ones with ceramic cores any good? Is there anybody out there who has used a rheostat with the Weller 100? Also, I have thought about getting the Vicki Payne videos to help improve my soldering and glass cutting skills. Has anybody seen these videos? Are they worth the money?(29.00) Even with classes I'm taking I realize I need some more instruction. I have to do most of my shopping from catalogs because the local stores have very limited inventory. Thanks for the help. It is very much appreciated. Carol in Ohio ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Apr 20 07:16:51 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 20 Apr 2001 06:47:24 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #530 built 2001-Apr-11) X-Path: aol.com!Beveler4 From: Beveler4@aol.com To: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Subject: Re: Glass Saws Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 09:45:40 EDT Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com> Precedence: bulk Hi Carol in Ohio, Beveler4 (Stan) here from Cinti,Ohio.I own and operate the Glass Shack in Cinti, Ohio. Maybe you have either heard of us or even been to the shop as we are the closest to Oxford that I am aware of. We do a lot of business with the Oxford senior center and I have many customers including some of the professors from the University who visit regulary. As for the saw I reccommend that you take the advice of those who have told you to wait and get better at cutting the glass by hand.I sell saws at the shop but I really don't push them because I believe that they are a luxury not a nescessity item,go for the best grinder set up you'll be way ahead. Come in and visit some time we offer many classes and have a full line of supplies for you to look at. Beveler4 (Stan) ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Apr 20 08:34:11 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 20 Apr 2001 08:26:26 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #530 built 2001-Apr-11) X-Path: northamericanfund.com!rballard From: "Robin Ballard" To: Content-Type: multipart/alternative; Subject: Seattle Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 09:31:15 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@northamericanfund.com> Precedence: bulk This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0012_01C0C97C.A5A5AD40 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi All! I am leaving for Seattle tomorrow night and was wondering if anyone has any suggestions for glass related places I should visit. This is my first time in Seattle and I'm really excited! Thanks in advance. Robin ------=_NextPart_000_0012_01C0C97C.A5A5AD40 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hi=20 All!

I am = leaving for=20 Seattle tomorrow night and was wondering if anyone has any suggestions = for glass=20 related places I should visit. This is my first time in Seattle = and I'm=20 really excited!

Thanks = in=20 advance.

Robin

------=_NextPart_000_0012_01C0C97C.A5A5AD40-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Apr 20 08:37:27 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 20 Apr 2001 08:02:01 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #530 built 2001-Apr-11) X-Path: home.com!gunnx4 From: Suzanne Gunn To: slmyers@erinet.com, glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: Re: Sodering Irons Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 09:33:51 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@erinet.com>> Organization: glassdancer Precedence: bulk Sounds like your weller 100 isnt working properly. I LOVE the weller 100. The temp is controlled in the tip. What are you soldering that your iron gets too cool? Maybe you need a hotter tip. When I solder copperfoil and lead I use the 700 degree tip, which comes with the iron. When soldering copper came, or brass, or attaching rebar I use an 800 degree tip. Suzanne slmyers@erinet.com wrote: ---snip--- > Now I have another basic question. While it is inexpensive to try several > different types of flux, it is rather the opposite with the irons. I > received a Weller 100 in my starter kit. The problem is, it cycles > automatically and I am left holding the iron, so to speak, until it decides > it's hot enough to melt the solder. So, there are several seconds where I > can't do anything but wait. It's very frustrating. I have been told not to > use a rheostat with it. I am thinking maybe I need another iron. Could I > have some opinions on different kinds? Are the ones with ceramic cores any > good? Is there anybody out there who has used a rheostat with the Weller > 100? > > Also, I have thought about getting the Vicki Payne videos to help improve my > soldering and glass cutting skills. Has anybody seen these videos? Are they > worth the money?(29.00) Even with classes I'm taking I realize I need some > more instruction. I have to do most of my shopping from catalogs because the > local stores have very limited inventory. > Thanks for the help. It is very much appreciated. > Carol in Ohio > > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Apr 20 10:32:24 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 20 Apr 2001 10:03:14 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #530 built 2001-Apr-11) X-Path: mail.compuquestinc.com!marge From: "Marge Lind" To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Subject: Re: Sodering Irons Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 11:20:46 -0600 Message-ID: <20010420162105.31E2770ED4@server5.safepages.com> Organization: http://www.compuquestinc.com Precedence: bulk Carol; I had a Weller 100 too, it worked great. One day I picked it up and it wouldn't heat at all, less than 1 year old. I contacted Weller, they said send it back. I received a brand new iron from them through their warranty program. What a great company. I have had no problems since. Maybe give them a call. Marge in Bartlett Just a beginner, but having a great time. slmyers@erinet.com wrote: ---snip--- > Now I have another basic question. While it is inexpensive to try several > different types of flux, it is rather the opposite with the irons. I > received a Weller 100 in my starter kit. The problem is, it cycles > automatically and I am left holding the iron, so to speak, until it decides > it's hot enough to melt the solder. So, there are several seconds where I > can't do anything but wait. It's very frustrating. I have been told not to > use a rheostat with it. I am thinking maybe I need another iron. Could I > have some opinions on different kinds? Are the ones with ceramic cores any > good? Is there anybody out there who has used a rheostat with the Weller > 100? > > Also, I have thought about getting the Vicki Payne videos to help improve my > soldering and glass cutting skills. Has anybody seen these videos? Are they > worth the money?(29.00) Even with classes I'm taking I realize I need some > more instruction. I have to do most of my shopping from catalogs because the > local stores have very limited inventory. > Thanks for the help. It is very much appreciated. > Carol in Ohio > > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Compuquest, Inc. Fax: 630.830.0877 630-830-2700 URL: http://www.compuquestinc.com Mfg. Hdw/Softw Products & Services Since 1983 Wireless Messaging, Unattended Monitoring, Internet Apps ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Apr 20 10:34:09 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 20 Apr 2001 10:05:26 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #530 built 2001-Apr-11) X-Path: erinet.com!slmyers From: slmyers@erinet.com To: "Suzanne Gunn" , Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Re: Sodering Irons Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 12:41:14 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@erinet.com> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>> Precedence: bulk Suzanne writes: > Sounds like your weller 100 isnt working properly. I LOVE the weller > 100. The temp is controlled in the tip. > > What are you soldering that your iron gets too cool? I'm just doing copper foil and using 60/40 solder. I use the 700 degree tip. It's really weird. I'll be going along just fine and then it stops working for a few seconds.(about 12 + or -)Just enough of a break in the action to be a pain in the neck. You can hold the solder against it and nothing happens. Then Boom! It starts to melt again. And it isn't just mine. There's a couple of people in class with the same problem. And yes, it happens at home too. So maybe it IS the iron itself. The worst part of starting anything new is figuring out how things are SUPPOSED to work. Thanks again, Carol Myers Camden, Ohio ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Apr 20 12:06:03 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 20 Apr 2001 12:01:20 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #530 built 2001-Apr-11) X-Path: aol.com!CINDEL67 From: CINDEL67@aol.com To: Glass@bungi.com Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_c5.ffd41df.2811e108_boundary" Subject: Re: Sodering Irons Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 14:59:20 EDT Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com> Precedence: bulk --part1_c5.ffd41df.2811e108_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Carol, The exact same thing happened with me that happened with Marge. (Mine was even quite a few years old.) I called Weller and they told me to send them my iron. I did and they sent me a brand new one. I've had no problems with it since. Cinda In a message dated 4/20/01 12:32:59 PM US Eastern Standard Time, marge@compuquestinc.com writes: > Carol; > > I had a Weller 100 too, it worked great. One day I picked it up and it > wouldn't > heat at all, less than 1 year old. I contacted Weller, they said send it > back. I > received a brand new iron from them through their warranty program. What a > great company. I have had no problems since. Maybe give them a call. > > Marge in Bartlett > Just a beginner, but having a great time. > > --part1_c5.ffd41df.2811e108_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Carol,
The exact same thing happened with me that happened with Marge. (Mine
was even quite a few years old.) I called Weller and they told me to send
them my iron. I did and they sent me a brand new one. I've had no problems
with it since.

Cinda

In a message dated 4/20/01 12:32:59 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
marge@compuquestinc.com writes:

Carol;

I had a Weller 100 too, it worked great. One day I picked it up and it
wouldn't
heat at all, less than 1 year old. I contacted Weller, they said send it
back. I
received a brand new iron from them through their warranty program. What a
great company. I have had no problems since. Maybe give them a call.

Marge in Bartlett
Just a beginner, but having a great time.

--part1_c5.ffd41df.2811e108_boundary-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Apr 20 14:51:24 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 20 Apr 2001 14:32:00 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #530 built 2001-Apr-11) X-Path: sprintmail.com!searun From: "Maureen & David Humphreys" To: "Art glass" Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: The question. Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 08:19:28 -0700 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@sprintmail.com> Precedence: bulk To all and Carol, A former Ohio native myself, I agree that to try many fluxes would be great. But Disposing of the poor performer is an issue to consider too. The pros on the list sure had some great ones offered. Regarding Vicki Payne videos. I have the 3 tapes, The Art of cutting, Art of Glass Construction, and Soldering Techniques. About once a year I review them and find a good tip or two I forgot after a few years in the field. You may be able to get a 'set' price if ordered all at the same time as I did a few years ago. I will taking a set of the three to my dear friend in England (PALS format) this summer as a thank you present too. I have a 4 year old Weller 200 that has a rheostat all built in. I like it. I placed a mark on the dial for the 2 types of lead I use all of the time and it makes things a bit faster for me. If anyone has a newer one they will tell Carol and I about I would like to hear about it! My husband, the engineer, thinks I should consider replacing the 200 soon, but how long do they last?? Maureen from the PNW ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Apr 20 15:41:45 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 20 Apr 2001 15:24:29 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #530 built 2001-Apr-11) X-Path: home.com!gunnx4 From: Suzanne Gunn To: Maureen & David Humphreys Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: Re: The question. Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 17:03:21 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@sprintmail.com>> Organization: glassdancer Precedence: bulk Why replace it if it's working fine? Suzanne Maureen & David Humphreys wrote: My husband, the > engineer, thinks I should consider replacing the 200 soon, but how long do > they last?? > Maureen from the PNW > > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Apr 20 15:53:30 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 20 Apr 2001 15:26:45 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #530 built 2001-Apr-11) X-Path: home.com!gunnx4 From: Suzanne Gunn To: CINDEL67@aol.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: Re: Sodering Irons Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 15:07:56 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>> Organization: glassdancer Precedence: bulk Good to hear they replaced it. suzanne > > Hi Carol, > The exact same thing happened with me that happened with Marge. (Mine > was even quite a few years old.) I called Weller and they told me to send > them my iron. I did and they sent me a brand new one. I've had no problems > with it since. > > Cinda ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Apr 20 15:53:57 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 20 Apr 2001 15:29:12 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #530 built 2001-Apr-11) X-Path: home.com!gunnx4 From: Suzanne Gunn To: slmyers@erinet.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: Re: Sodering Irons Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 15:08:55 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@erinet.com>> Organization: glassdancer Precedence: bulk It does sound to me that your iron is faulty. I'd contact Weller, maybe they will replace or fix it for you. Suzanne > I'm just doing copper foil and using 60/40 solder. I use the 700 degree tip. > It's really weird. I'll be going along just fine and then it stops working > for a few seconds.(about 12 + or -)Just enough of a break in the action to > be a pain in the neck. You can hold the solder against it and nothing > happens. Then Boom! It starts to melt again. And it isn't just mine. There's > a couple of people in class with the same problem. And yes, it happens at > home too. So maybe it IS the iron itself. > The worst part of starting anything new is figuring out how things are > SUPPOSED to work. > Thanks again, > Carol Myers > Camden, Ohio > > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Apr 20 16:24:50 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 20 Apr 2001 16:07:50 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #530 built 2001-Apr-11) X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard From: Steve Richard To: Maureen & David Humphreys Subject: Re: The question. Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 00:05:41 +0100 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@verrier> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@sprintmail.com>> Precedence: bulk The weller irons last until they die of rust and plastics failure. Don't replace until it dies. Steve In message <1970Jan1.000.0@sprintmail.com>, Maureen & David Humphreys writes >To all and Carol, >A former Ohio native myself, I agree that to try many fluxes would be great. >But Disposing of the poor performer is an issue to consider too. The pros on >the list sure had some great ones offered. >Regarding Vicki Payne videos. I have the 3 tapes, The Art of cutting, Art of >Glass Construction, and Soldering Techniques. About once a year I review >them and find a good tip or two I forgot after a few years in the field. You >may be able to get a 'set' price if ordered all at the same time as I did a >few years ago. I will taking a set of the three to my dear friend in England >(PALS format) this summer as a thank you present too. >I have a 4 year old Weller 200 that has a rheostat all built in. I like it. >I placed a mark on the dial for the 2 types of lead I use all of the time >and it makes things a bit faster for me. If anyone has a newer one they will >tell Carol and I about I would like to hear about it! My husband, the >engineer, thinks I should consider replacing the 200 soon, but how long do >they last?? >Maureen from the PNW > > > >---- >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com >To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass -- Steve Richard Verrier Art Glass Ltd s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Apr 20 18:05:54 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 20 Apr 2001 17:32:17 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #530 built 2001-Apr-11) X-Path: aol.com!Jeters From: Jeters@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_cb.102ceb44.281228e5_boundary" Subject: Re: AGSA Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 20:05:57 EDT Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com> Precedence: bulk --part1_cb.102ceb44.281228e5_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I'm hoping to go to AGSA during the weekend in June. I'm taking a nanny position for the summer in Delray but I have weekends off. Judy --part1_cb.102ceb44.281228e5_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I'm hoping to go to AGSA during the weekend in June. I'm taking a nanny
position for the summer in Delray but I have weekends off.
Judy

--part1_cb.102ceb44.281228e5_boundary-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Apr 20 18:32:41 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 20 Apr 2001 18:01:32 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #530 built 2001-Apr-11) X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard From: Steve Richard To: slmyers@erinet.com Subject: Re: Glass Saws Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 23:38:08 +0100 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@verrier> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@erinet.com>> Precedence: bulk I agree with Donna and Charlie that you should not get a saw yet, if at all. I would also say that you should do without a grinder as long as you can too. And for the same reason - practice will make your cutting better. Bob D (of California) has indicated more than once that the use of cut running pliers often means that you do not need to tap the curves and so get clean cuts that can be foiled with out grinding. Of course you could go traditional and lead your pieces. Much quicker in many circumstances, uses less solder, and although accurate cutting is required, does not require the perpendicular angles that copper foil is said to need. Flux Lots of people use all kinds of flux on copper foil. I use tallow on leaded glass work, and have found it works well on copper foil too. It has the advantage of staying where you put it until you heat it, does not evaporate, does not make everything slippery and greasy, and cleans with hot water and soap. Much better for you than chemicals (maybe not so good for the animals). Steve In message <1970Jan1.000.0@erinet.com>, slmyers@erinet.com writes >Hi all, >I'm new here and started doing glass about 6 weeks ago. I took a couple of >adult ed. classes at Miami Univ. in Oxford Ohio and have really enjoyed >myself. > >I had the chance to use a saw in class and now I want one! Do you have any >suggestions as to what brand I should look at? I would love some pointers >from people who use the different kinds available. > >I would also like to know what brands and types of flux you all use. A basic >need, I know, but there are several brands out there and any tips are >appreciated. >Thanks for the help! :o) >Carol in Ohio > > >---- >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com >To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass -- Steve Richard Verrier Art Glass Ltd s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Apr 20 18:33:51 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 20 Apr 2001 18:03:46 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #530 built 2001-Apr-11) X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard From: Steve Richard To: slmyers@erinet.com Subject: Re: Sodering Irons Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 23:58:26 +0100 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@verrier> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@erinet.com>> Precedence: bulk In message <1970Jan1.000.0@erinet.com>, slmyers@erinet.com writes .. ..cut.... > I >received a Weller 100 in my starter kit. The problem is, it cycles >automatically and I am left holding the iron, so to speak, until it decides >it's hot enough to melt the solder. So, there are several seconds where I >can't do anything but wait. It's very frustrating. Yes >I have been told not to >use a rheostat with it. I agree >I am thinking maybe I need another iron. Wait a bit >Could I >have some opinions on different kinds? Weller is among the best >Are the ones with ceramic cores any >good? They work, but at higher temperatures, and have even more temperature cycling problems, as the tip has even less mass than the Weller 100 >Is there anybody out there who has used a rheostat with the Weller >100? Probably, but the temperature control is within the iron, adding a rheostat merely reduces the voltage getting to the iron, so increasing the temperature recovery time. > So, my suggestions are that - you should get an 800 degree tip - you should solder more slowly, within the capacity of the iron - you should get a Weller 200 watt, as it has a large soldering bolt that holds a lot of heat, so reducing the temperature cycling frequency. When you solder, you are removing heat from the soldering tip (bolt), the temperature sensor in the iron requires some sizeable temperature drop before it switches back on (just line an electric stove in the kitchen). The interval between sensing the temperature is too low and achieving the correct temperature is the time you have to wait. Almost all experienced solderers can use a 100 watt iron without having to wait periods that are uncomfortable. You achieve this by moving the iron more slowly, so you stay within the capacity of the iron. If you don't want to do this, you have to get a more powerful iron. The 200 watt Weller is very good. The bolt is larger than the 100 watt, and so holds more heat (of course it takes longer to heat up at the start of the job). I have two (one with a 800 and one with a 700 tip) and solder with either all day happily without temperature troughs that are noticeable. They are expensive though. The ceramic irons heat up very quickly, but do not hold heat well, so you have to solder relatively slowly. Many people who use rheostats, are doing so to enable them to have low temperatures (that will just melt the solder) to allow various decorative solder effects to be achieved. A rheostat cannot increase the electricity to the iron, only reduce it. The way to increase the wattage is to get an iron at a higher watt rating. So in summary, I think you may be expecting to solder too quickly. Try slowing down, concentrating on getting an even bead along the joint. This cannot be done quickly, but with a deliberate and even speed. Steve >Also, I have thought about getting the Vicki Payne videos to help improve my >soldering and glass cutting skills. Has anybody seen these videos? Are they >worth the money?(29.00) Even with classes I'm taking I realize I need some >more instruction. I have to do most of my shopping from catalogs because the >local stores have very limited inventory. >Thanks for the help. It is very much appreciated. >Carol in Ohio > >---- >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com >To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass -- Steve Richard Verrier Art Glass Ltd s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Apr 20 20:01:59 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 20 Apr 2001 19:49:41 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #530 built 2001-Apr-11) X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard From: Steve Richard To: slmyers@erinet.com Subject: Re: Sodering Irons Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 00:01:55 +0100 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@verrier> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@erinet.com>> Precedence: bulk Carol, My view is that your instructor is allowing you to try to do the work too quickly. Think about it. Is it likely that three or more people in you class have irons that are not working properly? The company would go out of business if that was the rate of product failure. If the instructor does not have the heat cycle problem, watch her/him and note the speed at which s/he works. I think you will find that you are trying to do too much. See my reasoning in my earlier message. Steve In message <1970Jan1.000.0@erinet.com>, slmyers@erinet.com writes >Suzanne writes: >> Sounds like your weller 100 isnt working properly. I LOVE the weller >> 100. The temp is controlled in the tip. >> >> What are you soldering that your iron gets too cool? > >I'm just doing copper foil and using 60/40 solder. I use the 700 degree tip. >It's really weird. I'll be going along just fine and then it stops working >for a few seconds.(about 12 + or -)Just enough of a break in the action to >be a pain in the neck. You can hold the solder against it and nothing >happens. Then Boom! It starts to melt again. And it isn't just mine. There's >a couple of people in class with the same problem. And yes, it happens at >home too. So maybe it IS the iron itself. >The worst part of starting anything new is figuring out how things are >SUPPOSED to work. >Thanks again, >Carol Myers >Camden, Ohio > >---- >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com >To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass -- Steve Richard Verrier Art Glass Ltd s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Apr 20 20:03:46 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 20 Apr 2001 19:49:52 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #530 built 2001-Apr-11) X-Path: home.com!gunnx4 From: Suzanne Gunn To: James garner , glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: Re: Sodering Irons Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 21:23:59 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com> References: <<001101c0ca05$b9c64580$296ffea9@rualnet.net>> Organization: glassdancer Precedence: bulk Not to that extent with a weller 100....it just doesnt do that if it's working properly. Her glass would be breaking from thermal shock. Suzanne James garner wrote: > > It could be that as you go along the heat gets dispersed to the solder and > cools the tip to the point that it wont melt solder. Then you have to wait > for the tip to heat up again. > > James ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Apr 20 23:32:59 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 20 Apr 2001 23:07:49 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #530 built 2001-Apr-11) X-Path: home.com!cecnralph From: Cecily & Ralph Wood To: Bungi Glass Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Subject: Re: Sodering Irons Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 02:04:26 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>> Organization: Grendel Studio Precedence: bulk Some of you may remember my complaining of the same sort of problem - no matter what iron I use at home, and it gets much worse late at night. If I take that same iron to my daughter's or to a friends, it doesn't do that. I think this house just doesn't have enough electrical amperage, or whatever from the electric company. Our lights dim when the air conditioning comes on - the neighbor's air conditioning. - Cec Suzanne Gunn wrote: > Not to that extent with a weller 100....it just doesnt do that if it's > working properly. Her glass would be breaking from thermal shock. > > Suzanne > > James garner wrote: > > > > It could be that as you go along the heat gets dispersed to the solder and > > cools the tip to the point that it wont melt solder. Then you have to wait > > for the tip to heat up again. > > > > James > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Apr 21 03:10:48 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sat, 21 Apr 2001 02:49:53 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #530 built 2001-Apr-11) X-Path: stainedglass.co.uk!studio From: "studio@stainedglass.co.uk" To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Subject: Re: Sodering Irons - good buy in UK! Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 10:46:51 +0100 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@stainedglass.co.uk> Precedence: bulk At 23:58 20/04/01 +0100, Steve in Scotland wrote: (heavily snipped),,,,,,,,,,,, >- you should get a Weller 200 watt, as it has a large soldering bolt >that holds a lot of heat, so reducing the temperature cycling frequency. >........ The 200 watt Weller is very good. The bolt is larger than the >100 watt, and so holds more heat (of course it takes longer to heat up >at the start of the job). I have two (one with a 800 and one with a 700 >tip) and solder with either all day happily without temperature troughs >that are noticeable. They are expensive though...... Apologies to anyone who thinks I am out of line here - but in case any UK bungians are looking for a 200w Weller but have found it outside their budget to buy from most stained glass retailers here is a solution. We have a very good deal on the 200w Weller at present: Only 65.00 pounds retail with a substantial metal stand and free soldering sponge!! 10 pounds or so less than the 100w tc iron! Anyone interested can find details and postage costs on our website at http://www.stainedglass.co.uk/wellertc.htm The iron comes with a large #7 tip (as Steve explained) but we stock the other sizes in #7 and #8 Again apologies if anyone considers this as 'prohibited spam advertising' but I thought there was no reason bungians should miss out on this cheap offer just because it happens to be from a fellow bungian! Regards EliZabeth in Bournemouth Bournemouth Stained Glass http://www.stainedglass.co.uk UK Charter Member RAGS ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Apr 21 04:44:12 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sat, 21 Apr 2001 04:17:56 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #530 built 2001-Apr-11) X-Path: aol.com!CncptThnkr From: CncptThnkr@aol.com To: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Subject: Vicki Payne videos Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 07:12:49 EDT Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com> Precedence: bulk Hello, Hope everyone is having a great spring. I'm finishing up a glass class that I signed up for to kick myself back into working with glass. I've not only accomplished what I set out to do I've gotten a friend addicted too. We want sandblasters and kilns next. I've seen Vicki Payne videos on e bay, check under the category "stained glass supplies". They show up pretty often, so just keep checking. ia ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Apr 21 05:15:14 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sat, 21 Apr 2001 04:57:30 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #530 built 2001-Apr-11) X-Path: cornell.edu!bjs10 From: Barbara Snell To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Subject: Re: Sodering Irons Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 07:41:55 -0400 Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20010421073731.00af58d0@postoffice.mail.cornell.edu> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@erinet.com>> Precedence: bulk I have the Vicki Payne video on soldering techniques..... my soldering improved immediately after watching the video. But I did not have to pay so much for it, I bought it at a yard sale. In retrospect, I think I would pay for it anyway since it has made my life in glass a lot easier and more rewarding. I am not as tough on myself as I used to be. Barbara > >Also, I have thought about getting the Vicki Payne videos to help improve my > >soldering and glass cutting skills. Has anybody seen these videos? Are they > >worth the money?(29.00) Even with classes I'm taking I realize I need some > >more instruction. I have to do most of my shopping from catalogs because the > >local stores have very limited inventory. > >Thanks for the help. It is very much appreciated. > >Carol in Ohio > > > >---- > >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > >To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > >-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Apr 21 05:25:04 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sat, 21 Apr 2001 04:57:34 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #530 built 2001-Apr-11) X-Path: cornell.edu!bjs10 From: Barbara Snell To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Subject: Re: Glass Saws Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 07:54:37 -0400 Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20010421074252.00af8210@postoffice.mail.cornell.edu> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@erinet.com>> Precedence: bulk Hi, I would agree about the saw.... they come in very handy when one is doing very deep inside curves, but can be done without for the most part. About the grinder though.... I have found that I use the grinder less and less as I get better and better at cutting ..... so I would suggest to get a grinder and use it. It will help you finish your projects, get better with all of the techniques involved. Then you can evaluate how you are doing and what you can do differently. I do stained glass much differently now than when I first started doing glass.... but I do not think I would have gotten this far if I did not have a grinder. I would not have finished a project out of sheer frustration. Practice, Practice, Practice.... nothing will replace that.... but having said that..... finishing each piece by any means will help you to learn, gain confidence and find out what works for you. Good luck with your new found skills At 11:38 PM 04/20/2001 +0100, you wrote: >I agree with Donna and Charlie that you should not get a saw yet, if at >all. > I would also say that you should do without a grinder as long as >you can too. And for the same reason - practice will make your cutting >better. Bob D (of California) has indicated more than once that the use >of cut running pliers often means that you do not need to tap the curves >and so get clean cuts that can be foiled with out grinding. > > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Apr 21 05:32:57 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sat, 21 Apr 2001 05:19:27 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #530 built 2001-Apr-11) X-Path: norcomcable.ca!ace From: Carol Ames To: Bungi Glass Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: Re: Sodering Irons Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 07:26:50 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@norcomcable.ca> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>> Precedence: bulk Hi Have missed some of this thread. Does anyone know how many WELLER Irons 100 have been having heat problems. How many have been repaired sent back to Weller. Have ` 6 that I feel were factory problems. On calling a while a go they say that they are not having problems. Am I alone with this problem Carol Cecily & Ralph Wood wrote: > > Some of you may remember my complaining of the same sort of problem - no matter > what iron I use at home, and it gets much worse late at night. If I take that > same iron to my daughter's or to a friends, it doesn't do that. I think this > house just doesn't have enough electrical amperage, or whatever from the > electric company. Our lights dim when the air conditioning comes on - the > neighbor's air conditioning. - Cec > > Suzanne Gunn wrote: > > > Not to that extent with a weller 100....it just doesnt do that if it's > > working properly. Her glass would be breaking from thermal shock. > > > > Suzanne > > > > James garner wrote: > > > > > > It could be that as you go along the heat gets dispersed to the solder and > > > cools the tip to the point that it wont melt solder. Then you have to wait > > > for the tip to heat up again. > > > > > > James > > ---- > > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Apr 21 06:36:51 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sat, 21 Apr 2001 06:15:56 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #530 built 2001-Apr-11) X-Path: cornell.edu!bjs10 From: Barbara Snell To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Subject: Re: Sodering Irons Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 07:41:55 -0400 Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20010421073731.00af58d0@postoffice.mail.cornell.edu> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@erinet.com>> Precedence: bulk I have the Vicki Payne video on soldering techniques..... my soldering improved immediately after watching the video. But I did not have to pay so much for it, I bought it at a yard sale. In retrospect, I think I would pay for it anyway since it has made my life in glass a lot easier and more rewarding. I am not as tough on myself as I used to be. Barbara > >Also, I have thought about getting the Vicki Payne videos to help improve my > >soldering and glass cutting skills. Has anybody seen these videos? Are they > >worth the money?(29.00) Even with classes I'm taking I realize I need some > >more instruction. I have to do most of my shopping from catalogs because the > >local stores have very limited inventory. > >Thanks for the help. It is very much appreciated. > >Carol in Ohio > > > >---- > >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > >To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > >-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Apr 21 06:48:25 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sat, 21 Apr 2001 06:16:01 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #530 built 2001-Apr-11) X-Path: cornell.edu!bjs10 From: Barbara Snell To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Subject: Re: Glass Saws Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 07:54:37 -0400 Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20010421074252.00af8210@postoffice.mail.cornell.edu> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@erinet.com>> Precedence: bulk Hi, I would agree about the saw.... they come in very handy when one is doing very deep inside curves, but can be done without for the most part. About the grinder though.... I have found that I use the grinder less and less as I get better and better at cutting ..... so I would suggest to get a grinder and use it. It will help you finish your projects, get better with all of the techniques involved. Then you can evaluate how you are doing and what you can do differently. I do stained glass much differently now than when I first started doing glass.... but I do not think I would have gotten this far if I did not have a grinder. I would not have finished a project out of sheer frustration. Practice, Practice, Practice.... nothing will replace that.... but having said that..... finishing each piece by any means will help you to learn, gain confidence and find out what works for you. Good luck with your new found skills At 11:38 PM 04/20/2001 +0100, you wrote: >I agree with Donna and Charlie that you should not get a saw yet, if at >all. > I would also say that you should do without a grinder as long as >you can too. And for the same reason - practice will make your cutting >better. Bob D (of California) has indicated more than once that the use >of cut running pliers often means that you do not need to tap the curves >and so get clean cuts that can be foiled with out grinding. > > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Apr 22 06:33:52 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 22 Apr 2001 06:06:31 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #530 built 2001-Apr-11) X-Path: vcn.com!birkie From: "Birkie" To: "Carol Ames" , Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Re: Sodering Irons Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 07:05:04 -0600 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@vcn.com> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@norcomcable.ca>> Precedence: bulk I've been using the Weller 100 for approximately 6 years without any difficulty, as have a few other glass fanatics I know. Vicki ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Apr 22 14:11:55 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 22 Apr 2001 13:55:34 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #530 built 2001-Apr-11) X-Path: hotmail.com!glasslenzy From: "Lenzy Griffin-Bond" To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed Subject: fun fun fun Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 20:53:10 -0000 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@hotmail.com> Precedence: bulk If any of you have not looked at this site it is a lot of fun for glass "people"........ www.battlefieldglass.com Enjoy _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Apr 22 15:42:08 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 22 Apr 2001 15:20:19 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #530 built 2001-Apr-11) X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard From: Steve Richard To: Cecily & Ralph Wood Subject: Re: Sodering Irons Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 00:08:44 +0100 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@verrier> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>> Precedence: bulk You must be living in that power hungry area of the world called California, USA. In message <1970Jan1.000.0@home.com>, Cecily & Ralph Wood writes >Some of you may remember my complaining of the same sort of problem - no matter >what iron I use at home, and it gets much worse late at night. If I take that >same iron to my daughter's or to a friends, it doesn't do that. I think this >house just doesn't have enough electrical amperage, or whatever from the >electric company. Our lights dim when the air conditioning comes on - the >neighbor's air conditioning. - Cec > >Suzanne Gunn wrote: > >> Not to that extent with a weller 100....it just doesnt do that if it's >> working properly. Her glass would be breaking from thermal shock. >> >> Suzanne >> >> James garner wrote: >> > >> > It could be that as you go along the heat gets dispersed to the solder and >> > cools the tip to the point that it wont melt solder. Then you have to wait >> > for the tip to heat up again. >> > >> > James >> ---- >> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com >> To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com >> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > >---- >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com >To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass -- Steve Richard Verrier Art Glass Ltd s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Apr 22 18:11:29 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 22 Apr 2001 17:59:17 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #530 built 2001-Apr-11) X-Path: aol.com!FuchsiaFan From: FuchsiaFan@aol.com To: Glass@bungi.com Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_ce.13cd92e1.2814d5f1_boundary" Subject: black patina Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 20:48:49 EDT Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com> Precedence: bulk --part1_ce.13cd92e1.2814d5f1_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello Gungians everywhere! I've heard that by adding salt to black patina the black is enriched and made even blacker! Do any of you know anything about this? What is the formula? Does something else work just as well to enrich the black patina? Any help would be helpful. Thanks. Mike in Spokane --part1_ce.13cd92e1.2814d5f1_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello Gungians everywhere!

I've heard that by adding salt to black patina the black is enriched and made
even blacker! Do any of you know anything about this? What is the formula?
Does something else work just as well to enrich the black patina?

Any help would be helpful.

Thanks.

Mike in Spokane --part1_ce.13cd92e1.2814d5f1_boundary-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Apr 22 20:02:08 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 22 Apr 2001 19:31:44 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #530 built 2001-Apr-11) X-Path: aol.com!Roxie1024 From: Roxie1024@aol.com To: FuchsiaFan@aol.com, Glass@bungi.com Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_9f.1483d51a.2814ed7e_boundary" Subject: Re: black patina Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 22:29:18 EDT Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com> Precedence: bulk --part1_9f.1483d51a.2814ed7e_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I also have a question about black patina. I just used it for the first time - and I ended up with more of a bronze color - than black. The color is very pretty - but it is definitely not black. What would have caused this to happen...and in the future how can in ensure a true BLACK patina? Loretta in Michigan --part1_9f.1483d51a.2814ed7e_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I also have a question about black patina. I just used it for the first time
- and I ended up with more of a bronze color - than black. The color is very
pretty - but it is definitely not black.

What would have caused this to happen...and in the future how can in ensure a
true BLACK patina?

Loretta in Michigan --part1_9f.1483d51a.2814ed7e_boundary-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Apr 23 00:33:38 2001 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 23 Apr 2001 00:07:32 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #530 built 2001-Apr-11) X-Path: centurytel.net!officerjqg From: "James garner" To: Content-Type: multipart/alternative; Subject: Re: black patina Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 01:00:15 -0700 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0@centurytel.net> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@aol.com>> Precedence: bulk This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0032_01C0CB90.C1AC5640 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable It sounds weird to me. If it worked I think the manufacturer would of = already done that. James ----- Original Message -----=20 From: FuchsiaFan@aol.com=20 To: Glass@bungi.com=20 Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2001 5:48 PM Subject: black patina Hello Gungians everywhere!=20 I've heard that by adding salt to black patina the black is enriched = and made=20 even blacker! Do any of you know anything about this? What is the = formula? =20 Does something else work just as well to enrich the black patina?=20 Any help would be helpful.=20 Thanks.=20 Mike in Spokane=20 ------=_NextPart_000_0032_01C0CB90.C1AC5640 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

It sounds weird to me. If it worked I = think the=20 manufacturer would of already done that.

James

----- Original Message -----

From:=20 FuchsiaFan@aol.com

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