From owner-glass Mon Jan 1 07:16:48 2001
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard
To: Lynda Burleigh
Subject: Re: Cleaning old glass
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2001 13:29:25 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk
Lynda,
I am assuming that there is no staining or painting on this
glass that you write about.
Soak the glass in warm water. After ca 30 mins scrub with plain
clean water and fiber brush (like a nail brush, maybe). See what
residue is left. If you have the residue of cement around the edges,
put back into clean warm water for up to a day. Then you can try first,
the previous process; second, cream cleaners, like you use on the
fibreglass bath, and a fibre brush; third, use a brass wire brush (never
steel) on these edges; fourth, use a blade held almost parallel to the
glass, with the glass on a hard clean and smooth surface (This is last,
as it is most likely to break the glass).
Best wishes
Steve
In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, Lynda Burleigh writes
>Hi All..
>
>I hope I'm doing this right as it's my first time writing to the group.
>
>I have been given pieces of used stained glass that has been removed
>from it's original window.
>The lead came had been removed....Is there something someone could
>suggest for cleaning off the built up residue from element exposure?
>The color is a very unusual grape-amythyst colored cathedral that I
>would love to reuse. Is this a no-no?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Lynda
>
>
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
--
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Mon Jan 1 13:31:57 2001
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From:
To:
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Subject: glass painting
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2001 16:13:37 -0500
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I am looking for someone to do some piece work. I need the head and =
hands of Jesus to be painted. I will supply templates for each with a =
general sketch of what I am looking for.
Is there anyone out there doing this work?
Do you have someone you would recommend?
Not that it really matters now a days but I am located in New Jersey, =
USA.
Thanks
Michael from LSG Creations
------=_NextPart_000_0022_01C0740D.CC2EF440
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I am looking for someone to do some piece work. I =
need the=20
head and hands of Jesus to be painted. I will supply templates for each =
with a=20
general sketch of what I am looking for.
Is there anyone out there doing this =
work?
Do you have someone you would =
recommend?
Not that it really matters now a days but I am =
located in New=20
Jersey, USA.
Michael from LSG Creations
------=_NextPart_000_0022_01C0740D.CC2EF440--
----
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From owner-glass Mon Jan 1 18:32:05 2001
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From: Family Account
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: New in craft stores
Date: Mon, 01 Jan 2001 20:34:02 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk
Bags of glass chunks, maybe tumbled for a day in a rock tumbler, to be
used for making your own garden stores! About enough to fill a sandwich
bag, for only $6.95!
Think of the scrap you've all made...didn't know it was worth that much,
did you?
Off to install a new scanner.
Happy New millenium, everyone.
Dorothy
----
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 3 10:01:47 2001
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From: "Christie A. Wood"
To: Bungi
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Glass Art Society 2001 Conference
Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2001 12:46:03 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk
IGGA Press release.
Christie A. Wood
North Wales, PA USA
-------------Forwarded Message-----------------
From: Glass Art Society, INTERNET:CommCoord@glassart.org
To: [unknown], INTERNET:members@igga.org
Date: 01/02/2001 3:55 PM
RE: Glass Art Society 2001 Conference
=
Contact: Penny Berk, Executive Director
Tamara Gill, Communications Coordinator, 206-382-1305, email:info@glassar=
t.org
December 20, 2000
FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE
Glass Art Society to hold its 31st Annual Conference
At the Crossroads of Art, History, and Technology
June 13-17, 2001
Corning, New York
Conference Brochure, with program and registration information, is =
now available from the Glass Art Society. Registration begins January =
15, 2001.
The Glass Art Society's 31st annual conference will be held in =
Corning, New York, home of The Corning Museum of Glass (CMOG), which =
houses the world's premier glass collection-over 35,000 pieces =
spanning 3,500 years. Appropriately dubbed "The Crystal City," =
Corning is the perfect location for the four days of glass art =
demonstrations, lectures, and other events that the conference will =
provide.
THE CONFERENCE PROGRAM
Glassworking demonstrations, lectures, panel discussions, Technical =
Display, the Resource Center, and more will take place at The Corning =
Museum of Glass. Lectures include topics such as Glassroots =
Architecture Trilogy (1970-2001), Mosaic Matters-An Artist's View, =
and Sculptural Flameworking. Panel discussions include Art and/or =
Glass: Museums and Collecting, Furnace Builders, Color Bars, and =
Emerging Artists; while demonstrations cover glassworking techniques =
such as glass carving, flameworking, casting and blowing.
AWARD RECIPIENTS AND KEYNOTE LECTURER
Lifetime Achievement Award: Thomas Buechner
Honorary Lifetime Membership: Marc Peiser
Keynote Speaker: Barbara Maria Stafford: Leibniz's Cosmology: =
Reflections in a Kircherian Mirror
ARTISTS AND LECTURERS
Demonstrating Artists as of 12/20/00
Bennett Battaile
Anna Boothe
Robin Cass
Richard Clements
Rene Culler
Irene Frolic
Dudley Giberson
Bill Gudenrath
Jiri Harcuba
Judy Hill
Eric Hilton
Peter Ivy
Frantisek Janak
Edward Kish
Lou Lynn
Dante Marioni
Iwao Matsushima
Ralph Mossman
Mary Mullaney
Mica Okuno
Marc Petrovic
Susan Plum
Colin Reid
Rene Roberts
Kari Russell-Poole
Emilio Santini
Jeffrey Spencer
Sam Stang
Denise Stillwaggon Leone
Loren Stump
Lino Tagliapietra
Takio Takemasa
Cesare Toffolo
Gianni Toso
Milon Townsend
Richard Whiteley
Lecturers and Panelists as of 12/20/00
Scott Benefield
Thomas S. Buechner
John Chiles
Charlie Correll
John Croucher
Erwin Eisch
Dudley Giberson
Henry Halem
Jiri Harcuba
Richard Harned
Edward Kish
Stephen Koob
Warren Langley
John Leighton
Joseph Maio
Gabriel Mayer
Richard Meitner
Tina Oldknow
Mark Peiser
Flo Perkins
Richard Posner
Michael Schunke
Josh Simpson
Cady Coleman Simpson
Stephen Sinotte
Rick Snyderman
Ruth Snyderman
Vanessa Somers Vreeland
Dr. Barbara Maria Stafford
Joanne Stuhr
Lino Tagliapietra
Takio Takemasa
Cappy Thompson
Gianni Toso
Milon Townsend
Durk Valkema
Peter VanderLaan
Dick Weiss
David Whitehouse
Nicholas Williams
Frank Woolley
TECHNICAL DISPLAY
The Technical Display, with booths from 49 vendors, offers attendees =
the chance to purchase glass-related materials, supplies, and =
services.
EXHIBITIONS
The Corning Museum of Glass will be showing Glass of the Sultans; The =
Studio of The Corning Museum of Glass will be presenting work of =
artists from The Studio and the Carder-Steuben Glass Collection; and =
several other galleries will be hosting exhibitions in Corning. =
Exhibitions in the Corning vicinity include The Everson Museum in =
Syracuse with Gustav Stickley and His Era; the Herbert F. Johnson =
Museum of Art at Cornell University housing Tiffany Glass; Arno Art =
Museum in Elmira with recent work by Josh Simpson; and Gallery R in =
Rochester with the work of emerging artists from the RIT Glass =
Department.
G.A.S. AUCTIONS
The Annual Auction and the Goblet Grab allow conference participants =
the opportunity to purchase works of art while supporting the Glass =
Art Society. A portion of the proceeds from the Goblet Grab go to =
the Craft Emergency Relief Fund. The Annual Auction is open to the =
public and will take place Saturday, June 16, at 6pm at the Radisson =
Hotel Ballroom.
GLASS FASHION SHOW
Outfits created using any form of glass will be modeled during =
opening ceremonies. To participate in this event contact Laura =
Donefer at 613-372-0377, hickie@kos.net, by February 15, 2001.
TOURS
A kick-off dinner and private tour will include an elegant dinner and =
exclusive tour of eleven large-scale glass installations commissioned =
for the atria of the East and West wings of the Headquarters, Corning =
Incorporated. Featured artists are Peter Aldridge, Dale Chihuly, =
Erwin Eisch, Rury Iwata, Stanislav Libensky and Jaroslava Brychtova, =
Donald Lipski, William Morris, Therman Statom, Bertil Vallien, Harumi =
Yukutake, and Dana Zamecnikova. These works are not normally offered =
for public view.
Attendees will also have the opportunity to tour the Sullivan Park =
Research Center, Fall Brook Manufacturing Plant, and the Steuben =
Factory. A guided tour of The Corning Museum of Glass will be =
offered, as well as a tour of the glass installations at the =
Headquarters, Corning Incorporated.
WORKSHOPS
Conference attendees can make the most of their trip to New York by =
attending Pre- and Post-Conference Workshops offered by a variety of =
locations in and outside of Corning. Workshops and contact =
information are listed in the Conference Brochure.
NEW THIS YEAR
The Murrini Project offers glass artists a chance to create a piece =
of Glass Art Society history. Each Murrini has the words "G.A.S. =
1971-2001" in honor of G.A.S.'s 30th anniversary. Artists can =
purchase a Murrini, use it in a piece of artwork, and donate the =
artwork to G.A.S. for exhibition and auction at the 2001 conference. =
All proceeds from the Murrini Project will support the continued =
growth and development of the Glass Art Society.
For photos or more information, contact the Glass Art Society at =
206-382-1305; fax 206-382-2630;
E-mail: info@glassart.org, Web: www.glassart.org, 1305 Fourth Ave. =
#711, Seattle, WA 98101-2401 USA.
The Glass Art Society (G.A.S.) is a non-profit organization of =
artists, educators, historians, students, collectors, critics, =
manufacturers and others interested and involved in the production, =
technology and aesthetics of glass. Founded in 1971 by a small group =
of artist/educators who wanted to exchange information and ideas =
about the new technologies available, G.A.S. membership has grown to =
over 2,500 and includes members from 46 countries. Each year G.A.S. =
holds an Annual Conference, publishes the annual G.A.S. Journal, =
bi-monthly G.A.S. Newsletter, annual Membership and Education Roster, =
and Resource Guide. An active web site, www.glassart.org, provides =
ongoing information and links to members' web sites.
----
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From owner-glass Thu Jan 4 05:38:05 2001
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X-Path: together.net!jbuckner
From: Jennifer Buckner
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
Subject: Theft in Billings, MT
Date: Thu, 04 Jan 2001 08:19:06 -0500
Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20010104081204.00aad450@pop.together.net>
Precedence: bulk
On Dec. 27th a glass artist by the name of Dione Roberts had several large
pieces of her work stolen from her studio. The following web sites show
photos of some of those pieces. If anyone sees any one of the pieces,
please contact the police.
Jennifer
Jennifer G. Buckner jbuckner@together.net
----
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From owner-glass Thu Jan 4 07:24:30 2001
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From: "Jerri"
To:
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Atlanta Glass Art Guild
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 09:28:47 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk
I know there were a couple of people on the list who were interested in
coming to the next Guild meeting here in Atlanta. A meeting is now being
planned for Jan. 21 at 2:00. If anyone is interested, please e-mail me
privately and I'll get you more information.
Jerri
www.beadbimbo.com
----
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From owner-glass Sat Jan 6 20:31:27 2001
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From: "Byron Wells"
To:
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: hello??!!??
Date: Sat, 6 Jan 2001 21:27:14 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk
Havent gotten any bungi mail at all in a few days... Anyone still alive out
there?
Byron...
Wells Glassworks
----
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From owner-glass Sat Jan 6 20:58:17 2001
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From: "Linda Jo Letscher"
To: "Byron Wells" ,
Subject: Re: hello??!!??
Date: Sat, 6 Jan 2001 23:36:18 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
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Byron,
You took the words right out of my mouth. I guess everyone is recouperating
from the holidays.
Happy Glassing,
Linda Jo
----- Original Message -----
From: "Byron Wells"
To:
Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2001 10:27 PM
Subject: hello??!!??
> Havent gotten any bungi mail at all in a few days... Anyone still alive
out
> there?
>
> Byron...
> Wells Glassworks
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
----
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From owner-glass Sat Jan 6 22:30:41 2001
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From: Dee Thompson
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: hello??!!??
Date: Sun, 07 Jan 2001 00:09:37 -0500
Message-ID: <3.0.32.20010107000935.00d82208@pop.erols.com>
Precedence: bulk
post holiday rest period. It's bitter cold, and I've got a bit of the
winter blahs, myself. Just got a new glass magazine to try to stir the
creative ambition a bit. Think I'll dust off the torch and make a few
beads, for a change of pace.
dee
At 09:27 PM 1/6/01 -0600, you wrote:
>Havent gotten any bungi mail at all in a few days... Anyone still alive out
>there?
>
>Byron...
>Wells Glassworks
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
----
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From owner-glass Sun Jan 7 00:30:44 2001
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From: Suzanne Gunn
To: Byron Wells
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=x-user-defined
Subject: Re: hello??!!??
Date: Sun, 07 Jan 2001 00:41:42 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Organization: glassdancer
Precedence: bulk
Working long days this weekend, between the studio and a home show.
I had an unexpected meeting when a woman approached me at the show and
said "could you be Suzanne by any chance?" I thought I must have talked
to her on the phone at the studio, but it turns out I talked her her on
Warner Criv's live Glass Visions Glass Chat! ;o)
It was a fun surprise!
Suzanne
Was really
Byron Wells wrote:
>
> Havent gotten any bungi mail at all in a few days... Anyone still alive out
> there?
>
> Byron...
> Wells Glassworks
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
----
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From owner-glass Sun Jan 7 12:07:44 2001
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From: "ELLA"
To:
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: no e-mail
Date: Sun, 7 Jan 2001 14:59:29 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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Hi, I also have missed all the info I learn from this sight. I have =
signed up for 4 class at the Las Vegas Glass Expo in March. So =
excited"" Has anyone we know gone and do they have any hints for a =
beginner. ella
------=_NextPart_000_000D_01C078BA.6F972340
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Hi, I also have missed all the info I =
learn from=20
this sight. I have signed up for 4 class at the Las Vegas Glass =
Expo in=20
March. So excited"" Has anyone we know gone and do they have =
any=20
hints for a beginner. ella
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----
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From owner-glass Sun Jan 7 12:39:03 2001
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From: "J. Dahlin"
To: Byron Wells
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: hello??!!??
Date: Sun, 07 Jan 2001 13:38:57 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk
I haven't sent any messages until today from my computer since Christmas
Day when I received a virus with a bungi message. After much messing
around I finally believe I am virus free and won't infect anyone else.
I have taken about a month off from doing any stained glass and am
trying to completely reorganize my work area.
----
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From owner-glass Sun Jan 7 14:10:16 2001
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From: Awbaxter@aol.com
To: ella@zoomnet.net, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: no e-mail
Date: Sun, 7 Jan 2001 16:33:43 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk
Hi Ella,
I went last year, and it was great. The classes I took were well worth the
time and money, and I will go again if time permits.
As far as advice, take clothes for cooler weather than you would expect for
Las Vegas - the classrooms in the convention center are COLD! Shorts and
Tshirts were not enough, some of us were layering sweaters and jackets, so
bring a mix.
Everyone was very friendly, the exhibits were great, plenty to see and do
outside of the glass event - you'll have a great time!
Ann
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From owner-glass Sun Jan 7 14:25:22 2001
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From: Bill
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: hello??!!??
Date: Sun, 07 Jan 2001 16:08:16 -0500
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References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk
pretty quiet up here in canada also!.......still getting over all the
turkey i guess.... ;-) ...bill
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From owner-glass Sun Jan 7 19:00:41 2001
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From: "Byron Wells"
To:
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: hello??!!??
Date: Sun, 7 Jan 2001 20:50:21 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk
Yea I kept getting that kak thing myself and a few others lately. Went out
and got Norton Antivirus and fried the critters..
Byron...
Wells Glassworks
----- Original Message -----
From: J. Dahlin
To: Byron Wells
Sent: Sunday, January 07, 2001 1:38 PM
Subject: Re: hello??!!??
> I haven't sent any messages until today from my computer since Christmas
> Day when I received a virus with a bungi message. After much messing
> around I finally believe I am virus free and won't infect anyone else.
> I have taken about a month off from doing any stained glass and am
> trying to completely reorganize my work area.
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
>
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From owner-glass Sun Jan 7 20:31:46 2001
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X-Path: fastlane.net!byronw
From: "Byron Wells"
To:
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: hello??!!??
Date: Sun, 7 Jan 2001 20:53:13 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<000501c07863$62ebf460$203e493f@ilnk.com>>
Precedence: bulk
Must be nice to actually take the holidays off! I worked straight through em
all...Barely keeping ahead of my orders lately..
Byron...
Wells Glassworks
----- Original Message -----
From: Linda Jo Letscher
To: Byron Wells ;
Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2001 10:36 PM
Subject: Re: hello??!!??
> Byron,
> You took the words right out of my mouth. I guess everyone is
recouperating
> from the holidays.
> Happy Glassing,
> Linda Jo
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Byron Wells"
> To:
> Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2001 10:27 PM
> Subject: hello??!!??
>
>
> > Havent gotten any bungi mail at all in a few days... Anyone still alive
> out
> > there?
> >
> > Byron...
> > Wells Glassworks
> >
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
>
>
----
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From owner-glass Sun Jan 7 20:59:03 2001
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X-Path: home.com!esavad
From: "Mike Savad"
To: "Patrick Dirks" ,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE: do I know you? or you me?
Date: Thu, 21 Dec 2000 17:22:38 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk
your on a list serv, it means that you get your questions answered, but
you'll also get everyone else's answer as well.
---Mike Savad
---
Mike's Stained Glass - http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141/
Contains a wealth of stained glass information, stained glass tips, stained
glass instruction, and many, many stained glass links.
---
11-7-00 - New Stuff Added: How to solder a nice bead, and several new
projects. You can now search my site with a built in engine.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Patrick Dirks [mailto:buymypipes@hotmail.com]
> Sent: Thursday, December 21, 2000 12:36 PM
> To: glass@bungi.com
> Subject: do I know you? or you me?
>
>
> Hi,
> I've been getting emails from people not derected to me but to you:
> glass@bungi.
> I don't mind but if you didn't know about it yet I'll help solve the
> 'problem'(?).
>
> Bye,
> Patrick
> _________________________________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com.
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
----
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From owner-glass Sun Jan 7 23:30:43 2001
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X-Path: earthlink.net!meyer64
From: "Meyer"
To:
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: Las Vegas Classes
Date: Sun, 7 Jan 2001 15:29:04 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
------=_NextPart_000_0013_01C078BE.9164DE00
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charset="iso-8859-1"
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Ella, I have also singed up for four classes in Vegas. Which ones are =
you taking? I am going on Wednesday and taking classes on Thursday and =
Friday.
Thursday I have the Sandblasting and Etching class and the Hot & Wired =
class. Friday I have the Fusing Dichroc Glass and The Difference =
between doing business & making money classes. Has anyone taken any of =
these classes before? This is my first time going. I am real excited.
Oh by the way I have a posted new free patterns on my website. Check it =
out if your interested. http://www.geocities.com\dmeyer64
Debra Meyer
------=_NextPart_000_0013_01C078BE.9164DE00
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Ella, I have also singed up for four =
classes in=20
Vegas. Which ones are you taking? I am going on Wednesday =
and taking=20
classes on Thursday and Friday.
Thursday I have the Sandblasting =
and Etching=20
class and the Hot & Wired class. Friday I have the Fusing =
Dichroc=20
Glass and The Difference between doing business & making money=20
classes. Has anyone taken any of these classes before? This =
is my=20
first time going. I am real excited.
Debra Meyer
------=_NextPart_000_0013_01C078BE.9164DE00--
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From owner-glass Mon Jan 8 03:30:35 2001
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X-Path: home.com!esavad
From: "Mike Savad"
To: "Richard LaVal" ,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE: Psychological effects of color
Date: Sun, 24 Dec 2000 21:42:39 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<3.0.6.32.20001224064912.0080e160@127.0.0.1>>
Precedence: bulk
though i havn't checked the whole site yet... that site's intro made me a
bit sick...
---Mike Savad
---
Mike's Stained Glass - http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141/
Contains a wealth of stained glass information, stained glass tips, stained
glass instruction, and many, many stained glass links.
---
11-7-00 - New Stuff Added: How to solder a nice bead, and several new
projects. You can now search my site with a built in engine.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Richard LaVal [mailto:rlaval@sol.racsa.co.cr]
> Sent: Sunday, December 24, 2000 7:49 AM
> To: glass@bungi.com
> Subject: Re: Psychological effects of color
>
>
> >
> >Color is a very complex issue-- sonetimes we love a color, but in a
> >certain context (say, just a little box on a desk) and other times we
> >love to be immersed in a color, like wearing it, but that is even
> >different than being in a room painted that color.=20
> >
> =20
>
> A whole other issue is something called Irlen Syndrome... and I
> bet some of
> you have it without even knowing it.... Hate sunlight? learning problems?
> migraines? etc... these are only a few of the symptoms... They think it
> is a disability of the brain to process certain portions of the
> spectrum of
> light, so your brain short circuits and causes problems. Anyone
> interested
> in more info can check out www.Irlen.com I am a screener, and
> part of the
> screening process is using colored overlays to see if some of the symptoms
> can be stopped... it is very interesting the reactions people have to some
> of the colors.. some they love, and some actually make them
> instantly sick!
> By the way... most people can be "cured" by wearing a colored lens, made
> especially for them of the unique color which they need. Meg
> =BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA
> =BA=BA=BA=
> =BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA
> =BA=BA=BA=
> =BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA
> =BA=BA=BA=
> =BA
> =BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA
> RICHARD AND MEG LAVAL
> Apdo 24-5655
> Monteverde
> COSTA RICA
>
> PHONE 645-5052 or 645-5419
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
----
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From owner-glass Mon Jan 8 04:26:29 2001
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X-Path: home.com!esavad
From: "Mike Savad"
To: "David Cogen" ,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE: parallel mashers
Date: Tue, 19 Dec 2000 17:13:41 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<200012191358.IAA12470@poblano.llan.ll.mit.edu>>
Precedence: bulk
i wonder if there's anything related to the HVAC field. i know they make
various duct crimpers, though i don't know how powerful they are, nor if
they are parallel or not.
---Mike Savad
---
Mike's Stained Glass - http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141/
Contains a wealth of stained glass information, stained glass tips, stained
glass instruction, and many, many stained glass links.
---
11-7-00 - New Stuff Added: How to solder a nice bead, and several new
projects. You can now search my site with a built in engine.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: David Cogen [mailto:cogen@ll.mit.edu]
> Sent: Tuesday, December 19, 2000 8:59 AM
> To: glass@bungi.com
> Subject: parallel mashers
>
>
> Can anyone recommend a true parallel-action mashing plier? We have the
> "clothspin masher" sold by Frantz and probably elsewhere which was
> misleadingly advertised as parallel-action but it is not. I don't remember
> Wale or Frantz having anything suitable. The plates must be at least 1.5x2
> inches.
>
> If nothing for glass work exists, I am considering having
> something fabricated
> by welding plates onto an automotive parallel-action plier, but
> cannot even
> find such a plier! These used to be common many years ago. I have checked
> Sears and automotive stored but nothing has turned up. Any
> recommendations for
> this, too?
>
> Thanks for any leads.
>
> --DavidC
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
----
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From owner-glass Mon Jan 8 18:02:37 2001
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X-Path: tekstar.com!lmm
From: "Lowell & Mary Moser"
To:
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: mailing list
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 19:58:24 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <>
Precedence: bulk
----- Original Message -----
From: "Glenna Rand"
To:
Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2001 6:07 PM
Subject: mailing list
> Hi
>
> You are on the stained glass email mailing list. There have been
> some technical changes.
>
> As a reminder to all, the stained glass list is intended to be a resource
> that people can use to discuss issues related to glass work. It is not
for
> discussing the personal habits of people, or their probably parentage. We
> *do not* want to moderate this list. We feel that people should have the
> ability to express their ideas openly.
>
> Please; this list goes to over 400 people, all around the world. There
> *will* be differences of opinion. If so, please take it offline. To that
> end, I have made a technical change in how the list works. Before,
replying
> would automatically send to the stained glass list. Now, replying will
send
> the message back only to the originator. If your reply is meant for the
> list as well, you will need to change the To: address to glass@bungi.com.
>
> Hopefully, this minor change will both help avoid the recent flame-fests,
> and help people stay in a positive frame of mind.
>
> Let us know if you have any questions.
>
> Dave & Glenna Rand
>
>
> --
> Glenna Rand
> gjr@bungi.com
>
----
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From owner-glass Mon Jan 8 18:17:39 2001
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X-Path: n-link.com!pkelly
From: Patrick Kelly
To:
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: parallel mashers
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 20:14:51 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk
Sounds like a pair of sheet metal tools. Like vise grips but with a large
flat bill on either side.
my two cents worth...
Patrick
Roses and Rainbows
----
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From owner-glass Mon Jan 8 18:49:44 2001
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X-Path: fastlane.net!byronw
From: "Byron Wells"
To:
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: mailing list
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 20:46:05 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk
Ahh.. This would explain the lack of mail... Most people must not be
changing the TO: to bungi and all the mail is going to individuals instead
of the list...
----- Original Message -----
From: Lowell & Mary Moser
To:
Sent: Monday, January 08, 2001 7:58 PM
Subject: Re: mailing list
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Glenna Rand"
> To:
> Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2001 6:07 PM
> Subject: mailing list
>
>
> > Hi
> >
> > You are on the stained glass email mailing list. There have been
> > some technical changes.
> >
> > As a reminder to all, the stained glass list is intended to be a
resource
> > that people can use to discuss issues related to glass work. It is not
> for
> > discussing the personal habits of people, or their probably parentage.
We
> > *do not* want to moderate this list. We feel that people should have
the
> > ability to express their ideas openly.
> >
> > Please; this list goes to over 400 people, all around the world. There
> > *will* be differences of opinion. If so, please take it offline. To
that
> > end, I have made a technical change in how the list works. Before,
> replying
> > would automatically send to the stained glass list. Now, replying will
> send
> > the message back only to the originator. If your reply is meant for the
> > list as well, you will need to change the To: address to
glass@bungi.com.
> >
> > Hopefully, this minor change will both help avoid the recent
flame-fests,
> > and help people stay in a positive frame of mind.
> >
> > Let us know if you have any questions.
> >
> > Dave & Glenna Rand
> >
> >
> > --
> > Glenna Rand
> > gjr@bungi.com
> >
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
>
----
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From owner-glass Mon Jan 8 23:29:07 2001
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X-Path: sunrise-sunset.com!sansu
From: "sansu@sunrise-sunset.com"
To: glass@bungi.com.
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: [no subject]
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 22:28:48 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk
I am interested in hearing from glass artists who use or have used a glass
saw in their work. I am considering purchasing a Gryphon Wire Saw and
would like any feedback, experiences, suggestions, etc. Thanks for you
help!
_____________________________________________
Free email with personality! Over 200 domains!
http://www.MyOwnEmail.com
----
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From owner-glass Tue Jan 9 03:02:17 2001
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X-Path: clientes.euskaltel.es!elere
From: "Elena Rod4ríguez Echebarria"
To: Bungi List
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: anybody there?
Date: Tue, 09 Jan 2001 11:29:48 +0100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk
Hello bungians
And happy new year to all; I haven't received any message from this list
for ages and wondered whether everyone is on holidays or there's
something wrong with my mail service/system. I have just finished my
first ever craft fair without lossing money, even made some after
expenses. Do you think it is worth making small cheap articles for this
sort of event, even if such articles hardly (or not at all) give
profits? I have sold just one lamp (which is what I mainly make) and 105
pendants (quite cheap, just 1700 pesetas each).
I wonder how hard were studio owners beginnings and how did you manage
to keep your chin up when you were down. Any advice appreciated.
Best regards
Elena in Spain
----
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From owner-glass Tue Jan 9 06:30:48 2001
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X-Path: ilnk.com!andor
From: "Linda Jo Letscher"
To: "Elena Rod4ríguez Echebarria" ,
Subject: Re: anybody there?
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 08:52:37 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk
Re; Gryphon Saw
I have one like it, worked for 11 years without one, but it is a nice
addition to a studio.
Re:anybody there
I don't do the little stuff, but there are folks that spend a lot of time
making suncatchers and stuff and do make money going to craft shows. Do
what you feel is right for you.
Re: mail
I am getting my mail back when I try to send it to bungi, being rejected at
their server for some reason. So this is sort of a test.
Linda Jo
----- Original Message -----
From: "Elena Rod4ríguez Echebarria"
To: "Bungi List"
Sent: Tuesday, January 09, 2001 5:29 AM
Subject: anybody there?
> Hello bungians
> And happy new year to all; I haven't received any message from this list
> for ages and wondered whether everyone is on holidays or there's
> something wrong with my mail service/system. I have just finished my
> first ever craft fair without lossing money, even made some after
> expenses. Do you think it is worth making small cheap articles for this
> sort of event, even if such articles hardly (or not at all) give
> profits? I have sold just one lamp (which is what I mainly make) and 105
> pendants (quite cheap, just 1700 pesetas each).
> I wonder how hard were studio owners beginnings and how did you manage
> to keep your chin up when you were down. Any advice appreciated.
>
> Best regards
> Elena in Spain
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
----
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From owner-glass Tue Jan 9 09:09:48 2001
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X-Path: tir.com!jazzykid
From: "Jill M"
To: "Meyer" ,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Las Vegas Classes
Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2001 11:59:56 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk
Debra,
I have took the Sandblasting and Etching class and Hot and Wired last year
in Las Vegas. You will enjoy both classes. Dobbins are great teachers and
I took the carving class the next day and it gives you an overall view of
blasting. Linda Abbott is a hoot for Hot and Wired! You have FUN!!
Jill Medlyn
>Ella, I have also singed up for four classes in Vegas. Which ones are =
>you taking? I am going on Wednesday and taking classes on Thursday and =
>Friday.
>Thursday I have the Sandblasting and Etching class and the Hot & Wired =
>class. Friday I have the Fusing Dichroc Glass and The Difference =
>between doing business & making money classes. Has anyone taken any of =
>these classes before? This is my first time going. I am real excited.
>Oh by the way I have a posted new free patterns on my website. Check it =
>out if your interested. http://www.geocities.com\dmeyer64
>
>Debra Meyer
>
>------=_NextPart_000_0013_01C078BE.9164DE00
>Content-Type: text/html;
> charset="iso-8859-1"
>Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
>
>
>
>http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
>
>
>
>
>Ella, I have also singed up for four =
>classes in=20
>Vegas. Which ones are you taking? I am going on Wednesday =
>and taking=20
>classes on Thursday and Friday.
>Thursday I have the Sandblasting =
>and Etching=20
>class and the Hot & Wired class. Friday I have the Fusing =
>Dichroc=20
>Glass and The Difference between doing business & making money=20
>classes. Has anyone taken any of these classes before? This =
>is my=20
>first time going. I am real excited.
>
>
>Debra Meyer
>
>------=_NextPart_000_0013_01C078BE.9164DE00--
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
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From owner-glass Tue Jan 9 09:31:37 2001
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In a message dated 1/9/01 3:02:47 AM Pacific Standard Time,
elere@clientes.euskaltel.es writes:
> I have just finished my
> first ever craft fair without lossing money, even made some after
> expenses. Do you think it is worth making small cheap articles for this
> sort of event, even if such articles hardly (or not at all) give
> profits? I have sold just one lamp (which is what I mainly make) and 105
> pendants (quite cheap, just 1700 pesetas each).
Sometimes orders for large items can put you over the top for a good show.
Try to display a couple of larger items and have a portfolio of works you
have done. The small items for direct sale then are just a come on.
Bob in 9 2 0 2 6
Don't forget to punch out the candidate of your choice.
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In a message dated 1/9/01 3:02:47 AM Pacific Standard Time,
elere@clientes.euskaltel.es writes:
I have just finished my
first ever craft fair without lossing money, even made some after
expenses. Do you think it is worth making small cheap articles for this
sort of event, even if such articles hardly (or not at all) give
profits? I have sold just one lamp (which is what I mainly make) and 105
pendants (quite cheap, just 1700 pesetas each).
Sometimes orders for large items can put you over the top for a good show.
Try to display a couple of larger items and have a portfolio of works you
have done. The small items for direct sale then are just a come on.
Bob in 9 2 0 2 6
Don't forget to punch out the candidate of your choice.
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Date: Tue, 09 Jan 2001 17:27:13 -0500
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I've been busy with some family stuff, but have designs to do, so will be
starting those. Got a new scanner just before Christmas and finally have
that hooked up and ready to play with.
We had a good year last year and there were itmes we could have sold LOTS
of, if only we had....We make little angels out of scrap and never had
enough in November and December, so John is making some now, during our
slow time, so we can just pull 'em out of a box this fall. We're also
putting together our spring craft fair schedule...ie, getting the
applications together. Plus working on taxes, etc..
Busy still.
Dorothy
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X-Path: slonet.org!edupjohn
From: "Peggy W. Johnsen"
To: "sansu@sunrise-sunset.com"
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: [no subject]
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 19:20:15 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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It is my understanding that the Tarus II saw is outselling the Gryphon
saws by a large margin. If I were you I would try both out before
purchasing. Go to the shop where you expect to buy the saw or go to a
stained glass trade show such as the one forthcoming in Las Vegas in
March. The Tarus II is so easy and takes a lot more abuse than the
Gryphon saw will take. But the final answer has to be your own preference
after using both saws. PJ
On Mon, 8 Jan 2001, sansu@sunrise-sunset.com wrote:
> I am interested in hearing from glass artists who use or have used a glass
> saw in their work. I am considering purchasing a Gryphon Wire Saw and
> would like any feedback, experiences, suggestions, etc. Thanks for you
> help!
>
> _____________________________________________
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From: "D. ONeal"
To:
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: Saws
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 22:34:58 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
------=_NextPart_000_000A_01C07A8C.65F8FB00
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Sansu,
I have not tried the new Gryphon saw. I have an old one and have not =
used it since I got my new Gemini (Taurus?)Ring Saw. I love the ring =
saw and attachments.
Moya
------=_NextPart_000_000A_01C07A8C.65F8FB00
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Sansu,
I have not tried the new Gryphon saw. I have an old one and =
have not=20
used it since I got my new Gemini (Taurus?)Ring Saw. I love the =
ring saw=20
and attachments.
Moya
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From: Joan
To: "sansu@sunrise-sunset.com" , glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: [no subject]
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 20:43:56 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk
Check the newsgroup rec.crafts.glass. There is an
interesting thread on this very subject right now.
Joan
---
--- "sansu@sunrise-sunset.com"
wrote:
> I am interested in hearing from glass artists who
> use or have used a glass
> saw in their work. I am considering purchasing a
> Gryphon Wire Saw and
> would like any feedback, experiences, suggestions,
> etc. Thanks for you
> help!
>
> _____________________________________________
> Free email with personality! Over 200 domains!
> http://www.MyOwnEmail.com
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to:
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From: Joan
To: "sansu@sunrise-sunset.com" , glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: [no subject]
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 20:43:56 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk
Check the newsgroup rec.crafts.glass. There is an
interesting thread on this very subject right now.
Joan
---
--- "sansu@sunrise-sunset.com"
wrote:
> I am interested in hearing from glass artists who
> use or have used a glass
> saw in their work. I am considering purchasing a
> Gryphon Wire Saw and
> would like any feedback, experiences, suggestions,
> etc. Thanks for you
> help!
>
> _____________________________________________
> Free email with personality! Over 200 domains!
> http://www.MyOwnEmail.com
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to:
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X-Path: ilnk.com!andor
From: "Linda Jo Letscher"
To: "Bungi"
Subject: Said wrong saw
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 00:08:53 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk
I have a Taurus 2.2 not a Gryphon, don't know why I wrote that, I was out
today and it dawned on me I said the wrong one. The only saw I have ever
used is the Taurus, it is fine, don't use it a lot but no complaints.
Linda Jo
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From owner-glass Thu Jan 11 08:01:32 2001
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From: "Sarah"
To:
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: NG: Business Checks
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 10:21:31 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk
Clear DaySome time ago, someone asked if anyone knew a company that prints
checks with stained glass themes. I would like to know if anyone has found
such a company?
May your day be as beautiful as you are...!
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From: heinze.g@ns.sympatico.ca (Gail HeinzeMiline)
To: glass
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Ceiling panels
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 13:15:47 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Organization: Glass with Class
Precedence: bulk
I am working on a commission involving 6 ceiling panels to go over a
kitchen island and be backlit with flourescent tubes. Each panel is
about 20" by 20". They will have to be removable so the client can
change the tubes. Any ideas on how to go about reinforcing something
like this? The framing is already in place ( holding plexiglass right
now) and each panel is surrounded by 2 1/2" oak with a 1/4" lip where
the panel will sit. Thanks for any ideas.
Gail in Nova Scotia
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X-Path: attcanada.net!tuka
From:
To:
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Ceiling panels
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 09:13:50 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk
I too would appreciate receiving the responses to this question...
Thank you
Shiela
tuka@attcanada.net
I am working on a commission involving 6 ceiling panels to go over a
kitchen island and be backlit with flourescent tubes. Each panel is
about 20" by 20". They will have to be removable so the client can
change the tubes. Any ideas on how to go about reinforcing something
like this? The framing is already in place ( holding plexiglass right
now) and each panel is surrounded by 2 1/2" oak with a 1/4" lip where
the panel will sit. Thanks for any ideas.
Gail in Nova Scotia
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From owner-glass Thu Jan 11 10:40:57 2001
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From: Joan
To: lin payton
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: [no subject]
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 10:32:34 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk
I know you can read it, and most other newsgroups, at
www.deja.com. Click on "rec", then click on "crafts"
and find rec.crafts.glass. You can also search the
archives for old posts there.
Joan
--- lin payton wrote:
> how do you get to rec.crafts.glass? I used to keep
> up with that newsgroup but haven't been able to
> "join" since i changed over to MSN as my server.
> Any help would be appreciated in finding the
> newsgroup.
> TIA
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Joan
> Sent: Tuesday, January 09, 2001 9:16 PM
> To: sansu@sunrise-sunset.com; glass@bungi.com
> Subject: Re: [no subject]
>
>
>
> Check the newsgroup rec.crafts.glass. There is an
> interesting thread on this very subject right now.
>
> Joan
> ---
> --- "sansu@sunrise-sunset.com"
> wrote:
> > I am interested in hearing from glass artists who
> > use or have used a glass
> > saw in their work. I am considering purchasing a
> > Gryphon Wire Saw and
> > would like any feedback, experiences, suggestions,
> > etc. Thanks for you
> > help!
> >
> > _____________________________________________
> > Free email with personality! Over 200 domains!
> > http://www.MyOwnEmail.com
> >
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to:
> > glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list, please mail to:
> > glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
>
> __________________________________________________
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clear=all>
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer
> at
href="http://explorer.msn.com">http://explorer.msn.com
>
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From owner-glass Thu Jan 11 11:39:05 2001
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X-Path: exchange.DAYTONOH.NCR.com!DF125031
From: "Becker, Donna"
To: glass
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: RE: Ceiling panels
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 14:18:56 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk
I would like to receive the responses to this as well.
Thanks!
Donna Becker
donna.becker@chicagoil.ncr.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: heinze.g@ns.sympatico.ca [SMTP:heinze.g@ns.sympatico.ca]
> Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2001 11:16 AM
> To: glass
> Subject: Ceiling panels
>
> I am working on a commission involving 6 ceiling panels to go over a
> kitchen island and be backlit with flourescent tubes. Each panel is
> about 20" by 20". They will have to be removable so the client can
> change the tubes. Any ideas on how to go about reinforcing something
> like this? The framing is already in place ( holding plexiglass right
> now) and each panel is surrounded by 2 1/2" oak with a 1/4" lip where
> the panel will sit. Thanks for any ideas.
>
> Gail in Nova Scotia
>
> --
> -----------------------------------------------------
> Click here for Free Video!!
> http://www.gohip.com/free_video/
>
>
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From owner-glass Thu Jan 11 12:52:08 2001
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From: "marcia schuette"
To: "glass"
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Ceiling panels
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 14:17:02 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk
ditto,i'd like to receive the responses to the ceiling panels also. thank
you marcia
----- Original Message -----
From: "Becker, Donna"
to receive the responses to this as well.
>
> Thanks!
" by 20". They will have to be removable so the client can
> > change the tubes. Any ideas on how to go about reinforcing something
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From owner-glass Thu Jan 11 12:53:05 2001
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X-Path: fbol.com!Patty.McMaster
From: Patty.McMaster@fbol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: RE: Ceiling panels
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 13:54:40 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk
I would like to receive the response(s) to this as well.
& would like to know what design(s) Gail is using
Obviously, this is in lead , correct?
Thank You,
Patricia McMaster
pattymcmaster@fbol.com
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> -----Original Message-----
> From: heinze.g@ns.sympatico.ca [SMTP:heinze.g@ns.sympatico.ca]
> Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2001 11:16 AM
> To: glass
> Subject: Ceiling panels
>
> I am working on a commission involving 6 ceiling panels to go over a
> kitchen island and be backlit with flourescent tubes. Each panel is
> about 20" by 20". They will have to be removable so the client can
> change the tubes. Any ideas on how to go about reinforcing something
> like this? The framing is already in place ( holding plexiglass right
> now) and each panel is surrounded by 2 1/2" oak with a 1/4" lip where
> the panel will sit. Thanks for any ideas.
>
> Gail in Nova Scotia
>
> --
> -----------------------------------------------------
> Click here for Free Video!!
> http://www.gohip.com/free_video/
>
>
> ----
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From owner-glass Thu Jan 11 13:14:11 2001
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X-Path: fsg.prusec.com!cava
From: cava@fsg.prusec.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Ceiling panels
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 14:51:07 -0500
Message-ID: <01011114510747@fsg.prusec.com>
Precedence: bulk
I would like to receive the info on this
subject as well.
Thanks in advance.
Lucille
From: SMTP%"DF125031@exchange.DAYTONOH.NCR.com" 11-JAN-2001 14:49:31.81
To: CAVA
CC:
Subj: RE: Ceiling panels
X-Path: exchange.DAYTONOH.NCR.com!DF125031
From: DF125031@exchange.DAYTONOH.NCR.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: RE: Ceiling panels
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 14:18:56 -0500
Message-Id: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk
I would like to receive the responses to this as well.
Thanks!
Donna Becker
donna.becker@chicagoil.ncr.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: heinze.g@ns.sympatico.ca [SMTP:heinze.g@ns.sympatico.ca]
> Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2001 11:16 AM
> To: glass
> Subject: Ceiling panels
>
> I am working on a commission involving 6 ceiling panels to go over a
> kitchen island and be backlit with flourescent tubes. Each panel is
> about 20" by 20". They will have to be removable so the client can
> change the tubes. Any ideas on how to go about reinforcing something
> like this? The framing is already in place ( holding plexiglass right
> now) and each panel is surrounded by 2 1/2" oak with a 1/4" lip where
> the panel will sit. Thanks for any ideas.
>
> Gail in Nova Scotia
>
> --
> -----------------------------------------------------
> Click here for Free Video!!
> http://www.gohip.com/free_video/
>
>
> ----
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From owner-glass Thu Jan 11 13:54:31 2001
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X-Path: POBox.com!nadinesfolly
From: "Nadine BethSchneider"
To: "Becker, Donna" ,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE: Ceiling panels
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 16:20:49 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk
I would like them also. Thanks!
Nadine Beth Schneider
Nadine's Folly, Ltd
www.nadinesfolly.com
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From owner-glass Thu Jan 11 14:00:32 2001
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X-Path: fastlane.net!byronw
From: "Byron Wells"
To:
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Ceiling panels
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 15:51:58 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk
Hi Gail
I would think that 1 piece if 3/8 steel rebar somewhere near the center
would be more than enough..I assume your using lead came. I do a lot of
double doors for front entries that are usually 24x50 and if their kids can
destroy the doors slamming em with 1 piece of 3/8 steel then it oughta hold
a static panel just fine...
Byron...
Wells Glassworks
----- Original Message -----
From: Gail HeinzeMiline
To: glass
Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2001 11:15 AM
Subject: Ceiling panels
> I am working on a commission involving 6 ceiling panels to go over a
> kitchen island and be backlit with flourescent tubes. Each panel is
> about 20" by 20". They will have to be removable so the client can
> change the tubes. Any ideas on how to go about reinforcing something
> like this? The framing is already in place ( holding plexiglass right
> now) and each panel is surrounded by 2 1/2" oak with a 1/4" lip where
> the panel will sit. Thanks for any ideas.
>
> Gail in Nova Scotia
>
> --
> -----------------------------------------------------
> Click here for Free Video!!
> http://www.gohip.com/free_video/
>
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
>
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X-Path: yahoo.com!lindsey1713
From: Lindsey Edwards
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: REMOVE
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 13:35:05 -0800 (PST)
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Please remove lindsey1713@yahoo.com from your mailing list.
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X-Path: ix.netcom.com!gunnx4
From: Suzanne Gunn
To: Gail HeinzeMiline , glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=x-user-defined
Subject: Re: Ceiling panels
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 15:34:24 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Organization: glassdancer
Precedence: bulk
I'd reinforce the back side of the panel with rebar which would then go
into the wood frame. You'll have to cut notches into the wood frame for
the rebar to sit into.
Suzanne
Gail HeinzeMiline wrote:
>
> I am working on a commission involving 6 ceiling panels to go over a
> kitchen island and be backlit with flourescent tubes. Each panel is
> about 20" by 20". They will have to be removable so the client can
> change the tubes. Any ideas on how to go about reinforcing something
> like this? The framing is already in place ( holding plexiglass right
> now) and each panel is surrounded by 2 1/2" oak with a 1/4" lip where
> the panel will sit. Thanks for any ideas.
>
> Gail in Nova Scotia
>
> --
> -----------------------------------------------------
> Click here for Free Video!!
> http://www.gohip.com/free_video/
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
----
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From owner-glass Thu Jan 11 14:35:37 2001
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From: Suzanne Gunn
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=x-user-defined
Subject: Newsgroups
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 15:32:15 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Organization: glassdancer
Precedence: bulk
I had a similar problem because I upgraded my browser. You probably
need to contact your isp's tech support to get the correct address to
type into your newsgroup preferences.
Suzanne
> --- lin payton wrote:
> > how do you get to rec.crafts.glass? I used to keep
> > up with that newsgroup but haven't been able to
> > "join" since i changed over to MSN as my server.
> > Any help would be appreciated in finding the
> > newsgroup.
> > TIA
> >
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From owner-glass Thu Jan 11 15:00:23 2001
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From: Suzanne Gunn
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=x-user-defined
Subject: Ceiling panel
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 16:25:54 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Organization: glassdancer
Precedence: bulk
Gail,
On thinking some more re your ceiling panels...you wont need to notch
the wood as it will be on the front side of your panel, not the back
where the rebar would be.
Suzanne
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X-Path: yahoo.com!barbaraelmore
From: barbara elmore
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Ceiling panels
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 15:15:01 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk
Me, too. I have a panel that needs reinforcing now
for an 18" square ceiling pantel!
--- cava@fsg.prusec.com wrote:
> I would like to receive the info on this
> subject as well.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Lucille
>
> From: SMTP%"DF125031@exchange.DAYTONOH.NCR.com"
> 11-JAN-2001 14:49:31.81
> To: CAVA
> CC:
> Subj: RE: Ceiling panels
>
> X-Path: exchange.DAYTONOH.NCR.com!DF125031
> From: DF125031@exchange.DAYTONOH.NCR.com
> To: glass@bungi.com
> Content-Type: text/plain
> Subject: RE: Ceiling panels
> Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 14:18:56 -0500
> Message-Id: <1970Jan1.000.0>
> Precedence: bulk
>
> I would like to receive the responses to this as
> well.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Donna Becker
> donna.becker@chicagoil.ncr.com
>
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: heinze.g@ns.sympatico.ca
> [SMTP:heinze.g@ns.sympatico.ca]
> > Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2001 11:16 AM
> > To: glass
> > Subject: Ceiling panels
> >
> > I am working on a commission involving 6 ceiling
> panels to go over a
> > kitchen island and be backlit with flourescent
> tubes. Each panel is
> > about 20" by 20". They will have to be removable
> so the client can
> > change the tubes. Any ideas on how to go about
> reinforcing something
> > like this? The framing is already in place (
> holding plexiglass right
> > now) and each panel is surrounded by 2 1/2" oak
> with a 1/4" lip where
> > the panel will sit. Thanks for any ideas.
> >
> > Gail in Nova Scotia
> >
> > --
> >
>
-----------------------------------------------------
> > Click here for Free Video!!
> > http://www.gohip.com/free_video/
> >
> >
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to:
> glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list, please mail to:
> glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to:
> glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list, please mail to:
> glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> ----
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> glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list, please mail to:
> glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
=====
Thank you,
Barbara Elmore
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From owner-glass Thu Jan 11 15:34:14 2001
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X-Path: yahoo.com!barbaraelmore
From: barbara elmore
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Newsgroups
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 15:21:03 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk
Try www.deja.com/group/rec.crafts.glass
I am totally a computer dummy so don't even know how
to
make that a whatchacallit blue thingie so that you can
go directly.
My problem, as may be yours, is my ISP doesn't
subscribe to this newsgroup. So, this seems to be a
way around it, but it is filled with advertising.
--- Suzanne Gunn wrote:
> I had a similar problem because I upgraded my
> browser. You probably
> need to contact your isp's tech support to get the
> correct address to
> type into your newsgroup preferences.
> Suzanne
>
> > --- lin payton wrote:
> > > how do you get to rec.crafts.glass? I used to
> keep
> > > up with that newsgroup but haven't been able to
> > > "join" since i changed over to MSN as my server.
>
> > > Any help would be appreciated in finding the
> > > newsgroup.
> > > TIA
> > >
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to:
> glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list, please mail to:
> glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
=====
Thank you,
Barbara Elmore
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From owner-glass Thu Jan 11 16:19:51 2001
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X-Path: juno.com!himest
From: himest@juno.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: solder iron
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 15:29:25 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk
Question, I am a beginner glass person, and want to buy a good solder
iron.
Does everyone suggest a standard iron w/ a temperature control added to
it
OR
A solder iron with a built-in temperature controller.
I have used an iron that was plugged into a temp control box and had hard
time controlling the heat (too hot too cold) - so are the built in temp
controls better to contro temps?
----
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From owner-glass Thu Jan 11 17:00:36 2001
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X-Path: home.com!esavad
From: "Mike Savad"
To: ,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE: solder iron
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 19:44:07 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk
get a regular iron, and add the reostat to it. i heard that the built in
controllers, aren't as sensitve, and can break.
---Mike Savad
---
Mike's Stained Glass - http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141/
Contains a wealth of stained glass information, stained glass tips, stained
glass instruction, and many, many stained glass links.
---
11-7-00 - New Stuff Added: How to solder a nice bead, and several new
projects. You can now search my site with a built in engine.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: himest@juno.com [mailto:himest@juno.com]
> Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2001 4:29 PM
> To: glass@bungi.com
> Subject: solder iron
>
>
> Question, I am a beginner glass person, and want to buy a good solder
> iron.
>
> Does everyone suggest a standard iron w/ a temperature control added to
> it
> OR
> A solder iron with a built-in temperature controller.
>
>
> I have used an iron that was plugged into a temp control box and had hard
> time controlling the heat (too hot too cold) - so are the built in temp
> controls better to contro temps?
> ----
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> To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
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From owner-glass Thu Jan 11 18:38:49 2001
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X-Path: one.net!gwood
From: one.net!gwood
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Ceiling panels
Date: Thu Jan 11 18:17:33 2001
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk
Something to consider in these types of panels in existing
openings is the over all weight. The 'thickness' and means of
attachment of the 'lip' on the frame, while holding Plexiglas
quit well, may not be substantial enough to hold the weight
of the panel, especially a leaded one. Make sure the existing
lighting fixture can tolerate the increase in weight. Also, make
sure there is clearance inside the fixture to allow for reinforcement
as most commercial fixtures are 'thickness sensitive'.
Also, in panels in 'non-vertical' situations, especially leaded,
simple reinforcing down the center will not be enough.
Reinforced panels in doors & such, while withstanding the transient
forces of opening, closing & slamming, are strongest in the direction
of gravity with each piece, along with the came, lending strength
to the unit. Non-horizontal panels have to withstand the force
of gravity where each piece can not rely on its neighbor for strength
and most importantly fights _against_ the came. Solder is less prone
to stretching but is more brittle and subject to 'sudden' failure.
Over time each and every piece will want to stretch the came on which
it rests. I've run across non-vertical panels just a few years old that
look
more like soup bowls than panels. The closer to horizontal the panel is
hung,
the quicker the degradation.
The bottom line is to keep in mind the reinforcing when designing the panel
so that it does not detract from the design. Simple cross bracing down the
two centers is a good start but consider areas where reinforcing can be bent
to match the panel. Depending on the numbers of pieces, try not to leave an
area more than 7 inches square with out some support from its friends.
When doing leaded panels remember that the more pieces of glass, the
more pieces of lead, the heavier the panel, the more stress placed on the
came, the more it's prone to stretch, the more it's... ...well you get the
picture.
Good luck and would love to see what you create.
-G
----- Original Message -----
From: Gail HeinzeMiline
> I am working on a commission involving 6 ceiling panels to go over a
> kitchen island and be backlit with flourescent tubes. Each panel is
> about 20" by 20". They will have to be removable so the client can
> change the tubes. Any ideas on how to go about reinforcing something
> like this? The framing is already in place ( holding plexiglass right
> now) and each panel is surrounded by 2 1/2" oak with a 1/4" lip where
> the panel will sit. Thanks for any ideas.
>
> Gail in Nova Scotia
----
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From owner-glass Thu Jan 11 19:00:28 2001
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X-Path: ns.sympatico.ca!heinze.g
From: heinze.g@ns.sympatico.ca (Gail HeinzeMiline)
To: Suzanne Gunn , glass
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Ceiling panel
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 22:52:55 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Organization: Glass with Class
Precedence: bulk
I took a workshop with Bill Klopsch last year in Vegas, and I seem to
recall he suggested putting rebar for skylights so the window rested on
top, which would provide better reinforcement against gravity, but I
can't find it in my notes. I have emailed him and will let everyone know
what he says.
Suzanne Gunn wrote:
> Gail,
>
> On thinking some more re your ceiling panels...you wont need to notch
> the wood as it will be on the front side of your panel, not the back
> where the rebar would be.
>
> Suzanne
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From: Lynda Burleigh
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Kaleidoscope pattern
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 22:47:18 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Hi Everyone:
Has anyone out there come across a good pattern book for Kaleidoscopes?
Thanks....
Lynda
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From owner-glass Thu Jan 11 20:45:13 2001
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From: Patrick Kelly
To: "Gail HeinzeMiline" , "glass"
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE: Ceiling panels
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 22:12:29 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk
You might think about a sandwich of glass with the pane glass on the bottom.
I have never done one but the concept seems correct. I did it to an interior
door about 10 years ago and it hasn't sagged yet......
Patrick
roses and rainbows
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Gail HeinzeMiline [mailto:heinze.g@ns.sympatico.ca]
> Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2001 11:16 AM
> To: glass
> Subject: Ceiling panels
>
>
> I am working on a commission involving 6 ceiling panels to go over a
> kitchen island and be backlit with flourescent tubes. Each panel is
> about 20" by 20". They will have to be removable so the client can
> change the tubes. Any ideas on how to go about reinforcing something
> like this? The framing is already in place ( holding plexiglass right
> now) and each panel is surrounded by 2 1/2" oak with a 1/4" lip where
> the panel will sit. Thanks for any ideas.
>
> Gail in Nova Scotia
>
> --
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From owner-glass Fri Jan 12 03:30:43 2001
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From: Bill
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Ceiling panels
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 06:28:51 -0500
Message-ID: <3.0.6.32.20010112062851.0079d7a0@popd.netcom.ca>
References: <<01011114510747@fsg.prusec.com>>
Precedence: bulk
this subject has peaked my interest also :-) ......please include me to
the list of people who would like info on this project.......thanks....bill
At 02:51 PM 11/01/2001 -0500, you wrote:
> I would like to receive the info on this
> subject as well.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Lucille
>
>I would like to receive the responses to this as well.
>
>Thanks!
>
>Donna Becker
>donna.becker@chicagoil.ncr.com
>
>
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: heinze.g@ns.sympatico.ca [SMTP:heinze.g@ns.sympatico.ca]
>> Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2001 11:16 AM
>> To: glass
>> Subject: Ceiling panels
>>
>> I am working on a commission involving 6 ceiling panels to go over a
>> kitchen island and be backlit with flourescent tubes. Each panel is
>> about 20" by 20". They will have to be removable so the client can
>> change the tubes. Any ideas on how to go about reinforcing something
>> like this? The framing is already in place ( holding plexiglass right
>> now) and each panel is surrounded by 2 1/2" oak with a 1/4" lip where
>> the panel will sit. Thanks for any ideas.
>>
>> Gail in Nova Scotia
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From: heinze.g@ns.sympatico.ca (Gail HeinzeMiline)
To: daver!one.net!gwood
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Ceiling panels
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 09:00:29 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Organization: Glass with Class
Precedence: bulk
This is great info. Thanks!
I will be checking the structural integrity of the framing on my next visit to
the site. I am hoping it will be strong enough to support a pane of clear float
with the copper foil panel resting on that , but we will see.
daver!one.net!gwood wrote:
> Something to consider in these types of panels in existing
> openings is the over all weight. The 'thickness' and means of
> attachment of the 'lip' on the frame, while holding Plexiglas
> quit well, may not be substantial enough to hold the weight
> of the panel, especially a leaded one. Make sure the existing
> lighting fixture can tolerate the increase in weight. Also, make
> sure there is clearance inside the fixture to allow for reinforcement
> as most commercial fixtures are 'thickness sensitive'.
>
> Also, in panels in 'non-vertical' situations, especially leaded,
> simple reinforcing down the center will not be enough.
> Reinforced panels in doors & such, while withstanding the transient
> forces of opening, closing & slamming, are strongest in the direction
> of gravity with each piece, along with the came, lending strength
> to the unit. Non-horizontal panels have to withstand the force
> of gravity where each piece can not rely on its neighbor for strength
> and most importantly fights _against_ the came. Solder is less prone
> to stretching but is more brittle and subject to 'sudden' failure.
>
> Over time each and every piece will want to stretch the came on which
> it rests. I've run across non-vertical panels just a few years old that
> look
> more like soup bowls than panels. The closer to horizontal the panel is
> hung,
> the quicker the degradation.
>
> The bottom line is to keep in mind the reinforcing when designing the panel
> so that it does not detract from the design. Simple cross bracing down the
> two centers is a good start but consider areas where reinforcing can be bent
> to match the panel. Depending on the numbers of pieces, try not to leave an
> area more than 7 inches square with out some support from its friends.
>
> When doing leaded panels remember that the more pieces of glass, the
> more pieces of lead, the heavier the panel, the more stress placed on the
> came, the more it's prone to stretch, the more it's... ...well you get the
> picture.
>
> Good luck and would love to see what you create.
>
> -G
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Gail HeinzeMiline
> > I am working on a commission involving 6 ceiling panels to go over a
> > kitchen island and be backlit with flourescent tubes. Each panel is
> > about 20" by 20". They will have to be removable so the client can
> > change the tubes. Any ideas on how to go about reinforcing something
> > like this? The framing is already in place ( holding plexiglass right
> > now) and each panel is surrounded by 2 1/2" oak with a 1/4" lip where
> > the panel will sit. Thanks for any ideas.
> >
> > Gail in Nova Scotia
>
> ----
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> To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
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From: "Gregg Wood"
To: "Glass @ Bungi"
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Ceiling panels
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 09:40:06 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk
Float glass supporting the whole panel is by far the
strongest solution for a smaller panel like 20 inches square.
Pose the idea to the customer and perhaps take a sample
panel over glass to make sure they have no objections to the
aesthetics as the float glass _will_ detract slightly from the overall
'textureness' effect of the panel. (Some don't care, some are
particular.)
-G
----- Original Message -----
From: Gail HeinzeMiline
To:
Sent: Friday, January 12, 2001 8:11 AM
Subject: Re: Ceiling panels
> This is great info. Thanks!
> I will be checking the structural integrity of the framing on my next
visit to
> the site. I am hoping it will be strong enough to support a pane of clear
float
> with the copper foil panel resting on that , but we will see.
>
> daver!one.net!gwood wrote:
>
> > Something to consider in these types of panels in existing
> > openings is the over all weight. The 'thickness' and means of
> > attachment of the 'lip' on the frame, while holding Plexiglas
> > quit well, may not be substantial enough to hold the weight
> > of the panel, especially a leaded one. Make sure the existing
> > lighting fixture can tolerate the increase in weight. Also, make
> > sure there is clearance inside the fixture to allow for reinforcement
> > as most commercial fixtures are 'thickness sensitive'.
> >
> > Also, in panels in 'non-vertical' situations, especially leaded,
> > simple reinforcing down the center will not be enough.
> > Reinforced panels in doors & such, while withstanding the transient
> > forces of opening, closing & slamming, are strongest in the direction
> > of gravity with each piece, along with the came, lending strength
> > to the unit. Non-horizontal panels have to withstand the force
> > of gravity where each piece can not rely on its neighbor for strength
> > and most importantly fights _against_ the came. Solder is less prone
> > to stretching but is more brittle and subject to 'sudden' failure.
> >
> > Over time each and every piece will want to stretch the came on which
> > it rests. I've run across non-vertical panels just a few years old that
> > look
> > more like soup bowls than panels. The closer to horizontal the panel is
> > hung,
> > the quicker the degradation.
> >
> > The bottom line is to keep in mind the reinforcing when designing the
panel
> > so that it does not detract from the design. Simple cross bracing down
the
> > two centers is a good start but consider areas where reinforcing can be
bent
> > to match the panel. Depending on the numbers of pieces, try not to
leave an
> > area more than 7 inches square with out some support from its friends.
> >
> > When doing leaded panels remember that the more pieces of glass, the
> > more pieces of lead, the heavier the panel, the more stress placed on
the
> > came, the more it's prone to stretch, the more it's... ...well you get
the
> > picture.
> >
> > Good luck and would love to see what you create.
> >
> > -G
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Gail HeinzeMiline
> > > I am working on a commission involving 6 ceiling panels to go over a
> > > kitchen island and be backlit with flourescent tubes. Each panel is
> > > about 20" by 20". They will have to be removable so the client can
> > > change the tubes. Any ideas on how to go about reinforcing something
> > > like this? The framing is already in place ( holding plexiglass right
> > > now) and each panel is surrounded by 2 1/2" oak with a 1/4" lip where
> > > the panel will sit. Thanks for any ideas.
> > >
> > > Gail in Nova Scotia
> >
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
>
>
> --
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X-Path: juno.com!pkinnetz
From: Peggy L Kinnetz
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: Re: Ceiling panels
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 09:07:06 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk
I don't have any experience with doing ceiling panels, but one thing
comes to mind as I read your post, is that you have to make sure that the
framing already in place can withstand the additional weight of the
stained glass. Plexiglass is much lighter than a same size panel of glass
and lead or copper foil panel.
Also, (and this is where I'm most unsure) is that the weight of a hanging
panel is from top to bottom, whereas the weight from a panel that is hung
flat, would be bearing just the immediate or surrounding area. It would
seem to me that reinforcement if it si needed would be the same as for a
hanging panel. Please correct me if I'm wrong, fellow Bungians.
Peggy K.
> > I am working on a commission involving 6 ceiling panels to go over a
> kitchen island and be backlit with flourescent tubes. Each panel is
> about 20" by 20". They will have to be removable so the client can
> change the tubes. Any ideas on how to go about reinforcing something
> like this? The framing is already in place ( holding plexiglass
> right
> now) and each panel is surrounded by 2 1/2" oak with a 1/4" lip
> where
> the panel will sit. Thanks for any ideas.
>
> Gail in Nova Scotia
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From owner-glass Fri Jan 12 23:01:09 2001
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X-Path: worldnet.att.net!Moya-Don
From: "D. ONeal"
To:
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: RE:Kaleidoscope Pattern Book
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 23:13:08 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
------=_NextPart_000_003F_01C07CED.39F7AC00
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charset="Windows-1252"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Lynda,
I am interested in a good kaleidoscope book as well. Let me know if you =
find something, please.
It must be the little kid in me, but I have always loved them.
Thanks,
Moya
------=_NextPart_000_003F_01C07CED.39F7AC00
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Lynda,
I am interested in a good kaleidoscope book as well. Let me =
know if=20
you find something, please.
It must be the little kid in me, but I have always loved =
them.
Thanks,
Moya
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From owner-glass Sat Jan 13 03:31:17 2001
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From: "Rick Simmons"
To:
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: A New Field !
Date: Sat, 13 Jan 2001 05:26:26 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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Good Morning All:
Working with glass is a new area 4 me. I have a set of oxy-acetylene =
torches am trying 2 decide which Grinder 2 purchase. Am mainly =
interested in working with windows but may decide to do a lamp or 2. =
Should I get the model that has a disc 4 bevels as well as a grinder and =
will the DiamondTech Diamond Max II be a better choice or the Inland =
TwinSpin Disc Grinder (There is 10 bucks difference between the two)?=20
Any other advice, suggestions and guidance will be greatly =
appreciated as time and money are both commodities that I don't ever =
seem to have enough of. TIA
Sincerely,
DeUno
------=_NextPart_000_0409_01C07D21.601733E0
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charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Good Morning All:
Working with glass is a new area 4 me. =
I have a set=20
of oxy-acetylene torches am trying 2 decide which Grinder 2 purchase. Am =
mainly=20
interested in working with windows but may decide to do a lamp or 2. =
Should I=20
get the model that has a disc 4 bevels as well as a grinder and =
will the=20
DiamondTech Diamond Max II be a better choice or the Inland TwinSpin =
Disc=20
Grinder (There is 10 bucks difference between the two)?
Any other advice, =
suggestions=20
and guidance will be greatly appreciated as time and money are both =
commodities=20
that I don't ever seem to have enough of. TIA
=20
=
=20
=
=20
=
Sincerely,
=20
=
=20
=
=20
=20
DeUno
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From: Alex Gacic
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Replacing broken glass in copper foil panel
Date: Sat, 13 Jan 2001 06:06:58 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk
Hi Everyone
I just finished a copper foil panel, as I was cleaning
it a found a small crack in piece in the middle of the
panel.
What is the best and easiest way to replace this piece
of glass?
Thanks
Alex Gacic
Shalimar Florida
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From owner-glass Sat Jan 13 10:39:13 2001
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From: Joan
To: Bungi
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Blank Messages
Date: Sat, 13 Jan 2001 10:05:54 -0800 (PST)
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I seem to be getting a great many blank messages on
this list lately. Is this happening to anyone else?
I am on several e-mail lists, and this is the only one
from which I consistently receive blank messages.
Does anyone know the cause.... or a cure???
Joan
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To: mafe@apex.net, glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Re: A New Field !
Date: Sat, 13 Jan 2001 13:33:24 EST
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In a message dated 1/13/01 3:32:04 AM Pacific Standard Time, mafe@apex.net
writes:
> Working with glass is a new area 4 me. I have a set of oxy-acetylene =
>
Inland and Glastar both have three models of grinder. The bottom of each line
is plenty of grinder for starters and costs about US$75.00. I like the
Glastar line best.
Cheers, Bob in 9 2 0 2 6
--part1_88.101f928.2791f974_boundary
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In a message dated 1/13/01 3:32:04 AM Pacific Standard Time, mafe@apex.net
writes:
Working with glass is a new area 4 me. I have a set of oxy-acetylene =
torches am trying 2 decide which Grinder 2 purchase.
Inland and Glastar both have three models of grinder. The bottom of each line
is plenty of grinder for starters and costs about US$75.00. I like the
Glastar line best.
Cheers, Bob in 9 2 0 2 6
--part1_88.101f928.2791f974_boundary--
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From owner-glass Sat Jan 13 13:30:39 2001
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From: Gillian Higson
To: Alex Gacic
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Replacing broken glass in copper foil panel
Date: Sat, 13 Jan 2001 15:30:18 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk
The only way I know is to finely score the piece , tap it out with a
ball end cutter. Then heat up the old soldering iron and remove the foil
and solder. Make a pattern from the hole , cut out another piece of
glass . Foil it and then solder back into place.
Regards
Gillian
Alex Gacic wrote:
> Hi Everyone
>
> I just finished a copper foil panel, as I was cleaning
> it a found a small crack in piece in the middle of the
> panel.
>
> What is the best and easiest way to replace this piece
> of glass?
>
> Thanks
>
> Alex Gacic
> Shalimar Florida
>
> __________________________________________________
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From owner-glass Sat Jan 13 18:00:47 2001
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X-Path: aol.com!KendraPom
From: KendraPom@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: remove
Date: Sat, 13 Jan 2001 18:40:30 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Please remove. I will re-sign on after I move in a few months. I still have
no permanent work area and it is getting too hard to set up and tear down
every time I want to make a little something. I will write when I have any
questions.
Take care for now everyone.
Kim Breyette
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From owner-glass Sat Jan 13 19:21:28 2001
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From: James Garner
To: Sarah
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Subject: Re: NG: Business Checks
Date: Sat, 13 Jan 2001 19:10:25 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk
I did find some last year. There theme was something like Church Windows. You could get bible verses on them if you wanted. I am at work so if that interest you e-mail my and I will did out the checks for you.
James
officerjqg@go.com
-----Original Message-----
From: "Sarah"
To: glass@bungi.com
Date: Thu Jan 11 07:21:31 PST 2001
Subject: NG: Business Checks
>Clear DaySome time ago, someone asked if anyone knew a company that prints
>checks with stained glass themes. I would like to know if anyone has found
>such a company?
>May your day be as beautiful as you are...!
>
>----
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James Garner
___________________________________________________
GO.com Mail
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From: "J. Dahlin"
To: Sarah
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: NG: Business Checks
Date: Sat, 13 Jan 2001 21:04:09 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk
I have been using checks with stained glass designs for a couple of
years now. I got them through Designer Checks, P.O. Box 9000, Anniston,
AL 36202-9000. They are on the internet at designerchecks.com or you
can reach them by phone at 1(800) 239-4770.
The checks I use I think are called Chapel Windows or something like
that. There are four different designs on pastel checks.
Joanne Dahlin
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From owner-glass Sun Jan 14 01:02:49 2001
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X-Path: worldnet.att.net!Moya-Don
From: "D. ONeal"
To:
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: RE: Replacing broken piece of glass in finished piece
Date: Sat, 13 Jan 2001 23:30:01 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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Hi,
As Gillian said, break out you broken piece and remove the foil. A =
trick I learned is to cut a strip out of an empty Coke can and as you =
heat the solder to remove the foil, place the strip between the 2 pieces =
of foil and follow the iron around with the strip. This will separate =
the foil from the broken piece from the attached pieces. Clean the foil =
on the pieces left and slip the newly cut and foiled piece back in and =
resolder.
Good Luck,
Moya
------=_NextPart_000_002C_01C07DB8.C0330F00
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Hi,
As Gillian said, break out you broken piece and remove the =
foil. A=20
trick I learned is to cut a strip out of an empty Coke can and as =
you heat=20
the solder to remove the foil, place the strip between the 2 pieces of =
foil and=20
follow the iron around with the strip. This will separate the foil =
from=20
the broken piece from the attached pieces. Clean the foil on the =
pieces=20
left and slip the newly cut and foiled piece back in and resolder.
Good Luck,
Moya
------=_NextPart_000_002C_01C07DB8.C0330F00--
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X-Path: sprintmail.com!MollysGlass
From: "Molly Keys"
To: "D. ONeal" ,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Replacing broken piece of glass in finished piece
Date: Sun, 14 Jan 2001 08:43:35 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk
The coke can is a great idea. Since aluminum won't solder you don't have to
worry about it sticking. Be sure to use an old pair of groziers or pliers
to hold the strip with so that you don't get burned. I have a very thin
knife that I have used for years but am going to try the coke strip idea.
Thanks for the idea.
Molly
-----Original Message-----
From: D. ONeal
To: glass@bungi.com
Date: Sunday, January 14, 2001 3:15 AM
Subject: RE: Replacing broken piece of glass in finished piece
>This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
>
>------=_NextPart_000_002C_01C07DB8.C0330F00
>Content-Type: text/plain;
> charset="Windows-1252"
>Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
>
>Hi,
>As Gillian said, break out you broken piece and remove the foil. A =
>trick I learned is to cut a strip out of an empty Coke can and as you =
>heat the solder to remove the foil, place the strip between the 2 pieces =
>of foil and follow the iron around with the strip. This will separate =
>the foil from the broken piece from the attached pieces. Clean the foil =
>on the pieces left and slip the newly cut and foiled piece back in and =
>resolder.
>Good Luck,
>Moya
>
>------=_NextPart_000_002C_01C07DB8.C0330F00
>Content-Type: text/html;
> charset="Windows-1252"
>Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
>
>
>
>http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
>
>
>
>
>Hi,
>As Gillian said, break out you broken piece and remove the =
>foil. A=20
>trick I learned is to cut a strip out of an empty Coke can and as =
>you heat=20
>the solder to remove the foil, place the strip between the 2 pieces of =
>foil and=20
>follow the iron around with the strip. This will separate the foil =
>from=20
>the broken piece from the attached pieces. Clean the foil on the =
>pieces=20
>left and slip the newly cut and foiled piece back in and resolder.
>Good Luck,
>Moya
>
>------=_NextPart_000_002C_01C07DB8.C0330F00--
>
>----
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>
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X-Path: bright.net!arasai
From: "Sarah"
To:
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Chandelier Repair
Date: Sun, 14 Jan 2001 10:25:14 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk
Clear DayFirst of all, a BIG Thank You to all who responded to my question
about the business checks! I found them on the Designer check web-site, and
they are beautiful! Now here's another request for help! I have a request to
repair a chandelier that is over 100 years old. The crystals are dropping
off, and all need to be re-attached with new hardware. Does anyone know
where I can find the fasteners for the crystal tops? What type of wire do I
need? Also, the crystals are 3" dark amber, I have only been able to find
clear crystals. Any source for colored ones? Thanks in advance, I always get
the best help from this wonderful group!
Sarah
May your day be as beautiful as you are...!
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From owner-glass Sun Jan 14 08:06:56 2001
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From: ATFSI@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_44.a6ec6b1.279325d4_boundary"
Subject: Mica sheet use in place of some glass??
Date: Sun, 14 Jan 2001 10:55:00 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Does anyone know what kind etc of mica sheet is used instead of glass as
accent in "tiffany" ???? type of work. Are ther colors or is it a texture
thing etc etc
Thanks
Jack
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Does anyone know what kind etc of mica sheet is used instead of glass as
accent in "tiffany" ???? type of work. Are ther colors or is it a texture
thing etc etc
Thanks
Jack
--part1_44.a6ec6b1.279325d4_boundary--
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From: Bill
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: copper foil blues
Date: Sun, 14 Jan 2001 14:24:05 -0500
Message-ID: <3.0.6.32.20010114142405.0079a4e0@popd.netcom.ca>
Precedence: bulk
hi all.........i'm having a bit of a day today with copper foiling....the
main problem is centering the foil on long pieces (6 inches or more).....any
helpful hints?.......i'm using 7/32" black coated foil and am having quite a
time foiling my pieces...any handy hints or gadgets to get me through this?
...........all suggestions , within reason of course ;-) will be
welcomed!...............thanks in advance....bill
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From: "Peggy W. Johnsen"
To: Bill
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: copper foil blues
Date: Sun, 14 Jan 2001 13:43:34 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<3.0.6.32.20010114142405.0079a4e0@popd.netcom.ca>>
Precedence: bulk
I'm sure others will write you on how to keep your foil centered but I
recommend two ways: (1) Visualize the distance of the foil against
either the front or back and try to maintain the same distance all around;
or (2) if you really have problems you might want to try a hand foiler
(about $7) which will help you center the foil. There are other tools
available to help you center the foil but they are more expensive and I
don't believe help anymore than either by eye or by the hand foiler.
Even these methods are not sure fire. PJ
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From owner-glass Sun Jan 14 15:08:51 2001
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From: glasscc
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
Subject: Re: copper foil blues
Date: Sun, 14 Jan 2001 17:58:09 -0500
Message-ID: <5.0.2.1.0.20010114172657.00a175d0@mail.bright.net>
References: <<3.0.6.32.20010114142405.0079a4e0@popd.netcom.ca>>
Precedence: bulk
At 02:24 PM 1/14/01 -0500, Bill wrote:
>hi all.........i'm having a bit of a day today with copper foiling....the
>main problem is centering the foil on long pieces (6 inches or more).....any
>helpful hints?.......i'm using 7/32" black coated foil and am having quite a
>time foiling my pieces...any handy hints or gadgets to get me through this?
>...........all suggestions , within reason of course ;-) will be
>welcomed!...............thanks in advance....bill
Instead of trying to do the entire 6" in one swoop, try to center an inch
or so at a time. Yes it takes longer but you haven't messed up much if you
get it off center.
Joyce
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From: "Cindy Ravenna"
To: "Glass"
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Working with Chicago Lustre Glass
Date: Sun, 14 Jan 2001 19:23:30 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk
Hello all!
Has anyone used Chicago Lustre glass with the metallic coating? I am
working on two beautiful cabinet panels with a sun at the top. The sun uses
gold Chicago Lustre. I'm concerned about how to flux and solder the panels.
Supposedly I'm to "protect" the finish before soldering but I don't know how
I should protect it. Does anyone have any ideas?
Thanks,
Cindy
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From: Suzanne Gunn
To: Cindy Ravenna , glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=x-user-defined
Subject: Re: Working with Chicago Lustre Glass
Date: Sun, 14 Jan 2001 23:14:27 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Organization: glassdancer
Precedence: bulk
you could put little bits of tape between the lead and glass at the
joints and use paste flux.
I havent used that glass, btw.
Suzanne
Cindy Ravenna wrote:
>
> Hello all!
> Has anyone used Chicago Lustre glass with the metallic coating? I am
> working on two beautiful cabinet panels with a sun at the top. The sun uses
> gold Chicago Lustre. I'm concerned about how to flux and solder the panels.
> Supposedly I'm to "protect" the finish before soldering but I don't know how
> I should protect it. Does anyone have any ideas?
>
> Thanks,
> Cindy
>
> ----
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From owner-glass Mon Jan 15 01:17:39 2001
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X-Path: legacyhotels.co.za!skunneke
From: S Kunneke
To: 'Stained Glass Mailing'
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Lead window NIGHTMARE
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 09:17:06 +0200
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk
Dear All
As this is my first posting of the year - compliments of the season to =
one and all alike, and may your year be 100 fold better than your =
highest hope.
I have just finished making a lead window for my husband's aunt. They =
were kind enough to give us accommodation when we went away and as a =
thank you I promised to make a lead window for their back door. The =
problem is that I haven't done much lead work before and (Murphy's law) =
as I was finishing off the panel and giving it a polish, I carefully put =
the panel back on the table only to find that my 16mnth son had placed =
his toy car on the table and as I placed the panel on it, it broke one =
of the pieces in the middle. HOW DO I FIX IT????!!!! It has been =
cemented and everything. =20
Thanks in advance for any advise, help or comments.
Kind regards
Sarah K
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard
To: Bill
Subject: Centering foil on glass edge (WAS: copper foil blues
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 18:42:27 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<3.0.6.32.20010114142405.0079a4e0@popd.netcom.ca>>
Precedence: bulk
Bill,
If you don't have one eye that is completely dominate over the
other, you can look down both sides of the glass at the same time and
see how much foil extends beyond each side of the glass. Alternatively,
a little experience shows how much foil should extend beyond the glass
on one side to get an equal amount on the other.
Oddly, I find centring foil on long straight pieces relatively
straight forward. I will try to describe. I am right handed, so all
this applies to rh people (Left handed people please make adjustments
for my infirmities). I hold the glass piece in the left hand. The
outside of the foil, once started, lies against the side of my index
finger. The backing tape is between my thumb and second (or ring)
finger, and is pulled off by using those fingers. On curves, I apply
the foil to the glass continuously, pulling little amounts of the tape
off as I go. On straight edges, I start the foil at the far side, pull
off enough tape to expose the foil for the whole length of the edge, and
place my index finger against the foil at the near edge. Then I slowly
bring my index finger (still on the outside of the foil) toward the
glass at the near corner. This allows me to observe that I am keeping
the same amount of foil extended beyond the glass at both the far and
near corners.
Steve
In message <3.0.6.32.20010114142405.0079a4e0@popd.netcom.ca>, Bill
writes
>hi all.........i'm having a bit of a day today with copper foiling....the
>main problem is centering the foil on long pieces (6 inches or more).....any
>helpful hints?.......i'm using 7/32" black coated foil and am having quite a
>time foiling my pieces...any handy hints or gadgets to get me through this?
>...........all suggestions , within reason of course ;-) will be
>welcomed!...............thanks in advance....bill
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
--
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard
To: Rick Simmons
Subject: Grinders (was: A New Field !
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 18:08:34 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk
Rick,
You will quickly find that there are two camps about grinders.
If you feel the need for machines, then go ahead and get one, but you
are unlikely to ever develop excellent cutting skills, as you will rely
on the grinder to deal with the inaccuracies in your cutting. I'd say
"buy glass first, work at getting the cutting skills to a high level"
then consider a grinder.
You usually get what you pay for. So a grinder that does 101
things will not do the one or two things you want to do as well as
machines specially designed for the tasks.
This is me in my "off the soap box" mo;de.
Steve
In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, Rick Simmons writes
>This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
>
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>
>Good Morning All:
>Working with glass is a new area 4 me. I have a set of oxy-acetylene =
>torches am trying 2 decide which Grinder 2 purchase. Am mainly =
>interested in working with windows but may decide to do a lamp or 2. =
>Should I get the model that has a disc 4 bevels as well as a grinder and =
>will the DiamondTech Diamond Max II be a better choice or the Inland =
>TwinSpin Disc Grinder (There is 10 bucks difference between the two)?=20
> Any other advice, suggestions and guidance will be greatly =
>appreciated as time and money are both commodities that I don't ever =
>seem to have enough of. TIA
> Sincerely,
> DeUno
>
>------=_NextPart_000_0409_01C07D21.601733E0
>Content-Type: text/html;
> charset="iso-8859-1"
>Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
>
>
>
>charset=3Diso-8859-1">
>
>
>
>
>Good Morning All:
>Working with glass is a new area 4 me. =
>I have a set=20
>of oxy-acetylene torches am trying 2 decide which Grinder 2 purchase. Am =
>mainly=20
>interested in working with windows but may decide to do a lamp or 2. =
>Should I=20
>get the model that has a disc 4 bevels as well as a grinder and =
>will the=20
>DiamondTech Diamond Max II be a better choice or the Inland TwinSpin =
>Disc=20
>Grinder (There is 10 bucks difference between the two)?
> Any other advice, =
>suggestions=20
>and guidance will be greatly appreciated as time and money are both =
>commodities=20
>that I don't ever seem to have enough of. TIA
> =20
> =
> =20
> =
> =20
> =
>Sincerely,
> =20
> =
> =20
> =
> =20
> =20
>DeUno
>
>------=_NextPart_000_0409_01C07D21.601733E0--
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
--
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
----
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From owner-glass Mon Jan 15 14:30:20 2001
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard
To: Gail HeinzeMiline
Subject: Re: Ceiling panels
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 20:36:38 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk
Gail,
there are a few elements missing in your description, so I will
have to make some assumptions. I hope I remember to note all of them.
Is the run of panels in a line or a rectangle?, what is the
dimensions of the area these 6 panels are occupying?
The 2 and a half inch oak strips: are they 2&1/2 wide? how
high are they, as much of the strength will come from the height rather
than the width. I calculate that the weight will be about 52 lbs, but
you will want to check that against the actual weight to determine that
the structure will be able to hold the weight of the glass. If you
decide to use tempered glass beneath the leaded glass, you will need to
add about another 2 lbs per square foot to the weight calculations.
How thick is the timber at the 1/4 inch rebate?, as a lot of the
weight of the glass will be immediately carried by this part of the
timber support.
Now, because of the safety and legal implications of a piece of
glass falling out of the ceiling, I think the only way to go is to put a
piece of 4mm tempered glass beneath each leaded panel. tempered glass
is very strong (7 times more than the equivalent size of untempered
glass). Also see a large supplier of glass and ask for their
recommendations for exactly the installation you are considering.
Include all the activities that will happen below, and all the risks.
They will be able to give you information from the industry handbooks on
the thickness of tempered glass that you will need. It is only my guess
that 4mm will do.
Having said all of that, I have seen leaded glass installed in
1900 that still is there, with little bowing. These panels are
sometimes two and a half feet by one and a half feet. They have at
least two supporting bars for this length. The key is to have strongly
attached copper ties of sufficient thickness to tie to the supporting
bars.
Don't be put off. I have done two large commissions in fused
glass one 3metres by 3metres and another 4 metres by 3 metres. Both of
these were framed in mild steel. the larger weighs about 1/2 ton in
addition to the steel frame. Go for it.
Steve
In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, Gail HeinzeMiline
writes
>I am working on a commission involving 6 ceiling panels to go over a
>kitchen island and be backlit with flourescent tubes. Each panel is
>about 20" by 20". They will have to be removable so the client can
>change the tubes. Any ideas on how to go about reinforcing something
>like this? The framing is already in place ( holding plexiglass right
>now) and each panel is surrounded by 2 1/2" oak with a 1/4" lip where
>the panel will sit. Thanks for any ideas.
>
>Gail in Nova Scotia
>
>--
>-----------------------------------------------------
>Click here for Free Video!!
>http://www.gohip.com/free_video/
>
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
--
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
----
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From owner-glass Mon Jan 15 14:31:39 2001
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard
To: S Kunneke
Subject: Leaded panel repairs (was: Lead window NIGHTMARE
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 20:14:33 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk
Sarah,
This is the time when the oyster knife is really useful. It is
a strong blade that is turned up just about 3/8 inch before the end.
You use this or you can (with more difficulty) use a straight blade to
remove the cement (which should be easy, as it will not yet be hard).
You then work from the side that will be the inside when installed to
gently and progressively lift the leaf of the lead all around the piece
of glass.
At the solder joints you can either use your lead knife to cut
into them, or use the soldering iron to melt the solder and keep it from
reforming, by placing the lead knife between the pieces of lead. These
can then be opened up too, until all the lead leaf over the broken glass
is standing vertical.
All this work needs to be done parallel to the surface of the
glass, to avoid breaking other pieces of glass. You also must be sure
to keep you hands behind the blade. Cut, push, lift, etc. away from
your limbs and body. To secure the panel, nail a wood batten on the
bench so the panel is pushed against it. (Make sure the batten is really
well secured!)
Now you should be able to lift/push the broken piece out. As
you will still have the cartoon from which you made this (don't you),
you will be able to cut another piece just as before. It may need to be
very slightly smaller to fit back in.
Then you gently fold the lead leaf back down. do it
progressively, a little at a time all along the leaf, so you don't kink
it. If done carefully in both lifting and folding down, it will be
difficult to see the lead has been disturbed. Cement as usual and you
are finished.
Steve
In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, S Kunneke
writes
..
....cut.....
> only to find that my 16mnth son had placed =
>his toy car on the table and as I placed the panel on it, it broke one =
>of the pieces in the middle. HOW DO I FIX IT????!!!! It has been =
>cemented and everything.
--
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
----
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From owner-glass Mon Jan 15 14:43:48 2001
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From: Gailchat1@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Rebar
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 17:15:45 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk
I have seen many references to adding rebar. How does one acutally add rebar
to a copper foil panel?
Thanks...
Ronda
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From owner-glass Mon Jan 15 17:01:53 2001
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X-Path: netcom.ca!shmilly
From: Bill
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: thanks all! Re: copper foil blues
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 14:25:49 -0500
Message-ID: <3.0.6.32.20010115142549.007aae70@popd.netcom.ca>
References: <<3.0.6.32.20010114142405.0079a4e0@popd.netcom.ca>>
Precedence: bulk
thanks to all who have replied to my request....like everything else i
guess it will just take time and practice as well as checking out
alternatives to my dilemma......my frustration is also tied in with my
upper back problems......for this reason i may have to seek out any gadgets
on the market to help me to make the job "physically" less tolling as well
as consistent.....i know we all have our own opinions about these items,
but for a lot of us with certain physical limitations they can only help in
keeping our interest in stained glass......once again, thanks to all and
any more tips will be greatly appreciated....bill.......
P.S.(if anyone is considering throwing out any of their dusty old
"helpers", please feel free to throw them my way) hahaha ;-)
----
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From owner-glass Mon Jan 15 20:09:12 2001
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X-Path: aol.com!Marilbob
From: Marilbob@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Glass show
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 22:27:12 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk
I joined this list serve months ago and have learned a great deal from just
reading all the good advice. I have been working with glass for just about a
year and really enjoy it. I've read references to a glass show in Las Vegas
in March. Could someone provide the dates and more information? Thanks.
----
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From owner-glass Tue Jan 16 00:18:17 2001
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From: "Jill M"
To: ,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Glass show
Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2001 01:17:39 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk
www.glasscraftexpo.com
Should provide you with all the information you need for Las Vegas
Jill M.
-----Original Message-----
From: Marilbob@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Date: Monday, January 15, 2001 11:21 PM
Subject: Glass show
>I joined this list serve months ago and have learned a great deal from just
>reading all the good advice. I have been working with glass for just about
a
>year and really enjoy it. I've read references to a glass show in Las
Vegas
>in March. Could someone provide the dates and more information? Thanks.
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
----
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From owner-glass Tue Jan 16 11:58:23 2001
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X-Path: cinci.rr.com!rlean
From: "RLean"
To:
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: Re: copper foil blues
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 14:40:55 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<3.0.6.32.20010114142405.0079a4e0@popd.netcom.ca>>
Precedence: bulk
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
------=_NextPart_000_0091_01C07FCA.55379040
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Bob,
I hope this doesn't sound too lame. When I first starting using copper =
foil I would have to bend forward which would hurt my upper back, and I =
had trouble centering the foil too. Then I had an eye exam and found I =
needed a slight adjustment with my lens prescription. It really made a =
big difference. I didn't even realize that I was having trouble seeing =
the close-up work because I was still able to read ok.
Best of Luck,
Robin
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X-Path: home.com!cecnralph
From: Cecily & Ralph Wood
To: Joan , Bungi Glass
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Subject: Re: Blank Messages
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 11:05:55 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Organization: Grendel Studio
Precedence: bulk
The Bungi server is extremely allergic to HTML or hypertext - that which
gives text formatting and color, etc.
Joan wrote:
> I seem to be getting a great many blank messages on
> this list lately. Is this happening to anyone else?
>
> I am on several e-mail lists, and this is the only one
> from which I consistently receive blank messages.
>
> Does anyone know the cause.... or a cure???
>
> Joan
>
> __________________________________________________
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> Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
> http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
> ----
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> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
--
*********************************************************************
* Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood and/or Ralph Bernard Wood
* Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************
----
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From owner-glass Tue Jan 16 12:35:25 2001
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From: Cecily & Ralph Wood
To: Cindy Ravenna ,
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Subject: Re: Working with Chicago Lustre Glass
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 10:50:48 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Organization: Grendel Studio
Precedence: bulk
I was lucky enough to get some good lustre scraps and so I have played with it
a bit. The metallic lustre is quite vulnerable to friction - as is some
iridized glass, and the backing on mirrored crystals (and mirrors), so you
need to be very careful about doing anything that requires washing/scrubbing,
or just too much handling. Rinsing, or submersing in a water/soap solution
seems to be ok. Be careful you only dab when drying, though. Don't rub.
Incidentally, you can see the results of this vulneribility in looking at
Tiffany glass that was used outside, or was much washed inside, and you can
also see the same thing in Frank Lloyd Wright windows. As a matter of fact,
with the FLW windows, it is impossible to tell that some of the glass was
iridized, and even more difficult to tell what color it might have been
originally. I assume on some of the restorations, the original drawings, or
notes of the window makers were used so the restorer knew what to use. Perhaps
there were photos which gave clues. Otherwise, scrutiny of similar windows for
a site would have to be your only method of knowing.
This is something that you might include in your care and feeding tips for the
owners of glass projects you have made. It will never have occurred to them
that they can remove the iridization or lustre, or fired paint, let alone cold
paint, with their normal window care.
Did you know that FLW's iridized pieces of glass were deliberately set at tiny
angles, each different, so the play of light would be more interesting? Cec's
Factoid #357 :-) And some of those pieces were incredibly tiny! Amazing! -
Cec
Cindy Ravenna wrote:
> Hello all!
> Has anyone used Chicago Lustre glass with the metallic coating? I am
> working on two beautiful cabinet panels with a sun at the top. The sun uses
> gold Chicago Lustre. I'm concerned about how to flux and solder the panels.
> Supposedly I'm to "protect" the finish before soldering but I don't know how
> I should protect it. Does anyone have any ideas?
>
> Thanks,
> Cindy
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
--
*********************************************************************
* Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood and/or Ralph Bernard Wood
* Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************
----
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From owner-glass Tue Jan 16 12:42:05 2001
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From: Cecily & Ralph Wood
To: Bill , Bungi Glass
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Subject: Re: thanks all! Re: copper foil blues
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 10:58:43 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<3.0.6.32.20010115142549.007aae70@popd.netcom.ca>>
Organization: Grendel Studio
Precedence: bulk
I have found the little hand-held foilers more trouble than they are worth,
and the one meant for the 7/32 is actually manufactured off-center. I like
the DiGel (sp?) one best - I can speed up foiling a lot, although the quality
is no better or worse. However, when my husband volunteers to foil (bless his
heart) when he does it by hand I have to redo a lot of it, but he can do a
decent job with a foiler. If you get an opportunity to buy the Inland one,
don't. It is no longer made and there is a good reason for that. - Cec
Bill wrote:
> thanks to all who have replied to my request....like everything else i
> guess it will just take time and practice as well as checking out
> alternatives to my dilemma......my frustration is also tied in with my
> upper back problems......for this reason i may have to seek out any gadgets
> on the market to help me to make the job "physically" less tolling as well
> as consistent.....i know we all have our own opinions about these items,
> but for a lot of us with certain physical limitations they can only help in
> keeping our interest in stained glass......once again, thanks to all and
> any more tips will be greatly appreciated....bill.......
>
> P.S.(if anyone is considering throwing out any of their dusty old
> "helpers", please feel free to throw them my way) hahaha ;-)
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
--
*********************************************************************
* Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood and/or Ralph Bernard Wood
* Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************
----
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Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
From owner-glass Wed Jan 17 07:36:56 2001
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From: Jim Gonzalez
To:
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Blank Messages
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 10:16:07 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk
On Tue, 16 Jan 2001, Cecily & Ralph Wood wrote:
> The Bungi server is extremely allergic to HTML or hypertext - that which
> gives text formatting and color, etc.
>
I do not think that is true. I think it is more a function of the mail
software people use to read mail. I use an ancient unix mail
reader (pine) and all the HTML comes through just fine as text. I think
the problem is that mail readers have gotten to sophisticated.
The solution is for everyone to turn off HTML when they send mail to
Bungi. Bungi mail is read by many, many people using different mail
software. If everyone reviewed the settings they use when they send email to
bungi and just sent plain text I think it would eliminate the problem of blank
messages.
If you want to "see" those blank messages go to the bungi archives and
look at the digest-current for the current months messages. You will see
the HTML right after the plain text message.
Jim
----
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 17 08:08:33 2001
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard
To: ATFSI@aol.com
Content-Type: text/plain;charset=iso-8859-1
Subject: Re: Mica sheet use in place of some glass??
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 23:13:29 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk
As I don't see any replies yet Jack, I will put my two cents worth in.
Mica can be coloured, and there is a USA patent on doing so. I
don't know if it is done for large pieces or only for small particles.
There are also shells used in some of the lamp shades that come from the
Philippines. Check on the internet for mica companies (there are
several) and they can give you information on sizes and thicknesses of
the material, and what if any colours they can provide.
Steve
In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, ATFSI@aol.com writes
>
> Does anyone know what kind etc of mica sheet is used instead of
> glass as
> accent in "tiffany" ???? type of work. Are ther colors or is it a
> texture
> thing etc etc
>
> Thanks
>
> Jack
--
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
----
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From: meryder@postoffice.pacbell.net
To: Bungi Board
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Las Vegas Glass Crafters Expo
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 10:42:43 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk
Hi all,
We're looking forward to meeting any Bungians that go to the Las Vegas
Show. This will be our first time there. We're really so exicted!
I'm signed up for a whole bunch of classes. I feel like I'm making up
for all years that I couldn't get there.
Thursday: Slab Glass, Hot & Wired
Friday, Sculpted Solder, Uroboros Fusion FX
Saturday, Stack/Block Fusing
Sunday, Fused Dichroic Jewelry
After Las Vegas we're heading on east to Albuquerque for a week or so of
pure vacationing, which will include a visit to the Stained Glass Center
there. We'll be bringing our photos and would love to meet up with,
have coffee or dinner, and share
with any Bungians that are there. We're going to move to the
Albuquerque area within the next 18 months.
See you in 'Vegas soon!
Best regards,
Cheryl and Marty Ryder
----
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 17 14:34:16 2001
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X-Path: warmglass.com!mbwalker
From: "Brad Walker"
To:
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Fw: Glass Etching
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 13:12:06 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk
Anyone have the ability to do this?
(Or know someone who does?)
> Dear Sir or Madam,
>
> I am currently searching for someone who has the ability to etch 1 mm
> wide channels with a depth of 300 micrometers into glass slides. The
> slides will be used for liver research and must be very precise. If you
> are able to perform this process or know of anyone who may be able to, I
> would greatly appreciate any feedback.
>
> Thankyou,
>
> John H. Slater
> jhslater@uncc.edu
> (704)687-2833
----
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 17 15:04:29 2001
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From: "CP"
To:
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: Irish Claddaugh Pattern Needed
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 17:12:31 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
------=_NextPart_000_0015_01C080A8.ACEF5140
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Would anyone happen to have or know where I could find a pattern for the =
Irish Claddaugh, the 2 hands clasped I think. I had someone ask me to =
make something for them with this in the center.
Thanks in advance,
Caren
------=_NextPart_000_0015_01C080A8.ACEF5140
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Would anyone happen to have or know =
where I could=20
find a pattern for the Irish Claddaugh, the 2 hands clasped I =
think. I had=20
someone ask me to make something for them with this in the =
center.
Thanks in advance,
Caren
------=_NextPart_000_0015_01C080A8.ACEF5140--
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From: "CP"
To: ,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Irish Claddaugh Pattern Needed
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 19:30:55 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<3A65D766.26065.54593CD@localhost>>
Precedence: bulk
Thanks Kaye, I definately won't be using a bevel cluster for it but it
certainly would help to see the outline of the pieces and I can design my
own pattern. Thanks for taking the time to look for me.
Caren
----
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 17 18:07:44 2001
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From: Cecily & Ralph Wood
To: Bungi Glass
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Subject: Re: Mica sheet use in place of some glass??
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 20:50:06 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Organization: Grendel Studio
Precedence: bulk
Those shells are Capiz shells, very thin and translucent. As a matter of
fact, any time you see anything made with Capiz shells, the product was
made in the Philippines. - Cec
Steve Richard wrote:
> As I don't see any replies yet Jack, I will put my two cents worth in.
> Mica can be coloured, and there is a USA patent on doing so. I
> don't know if it is done for large pieces or only for small particles.
> There are also shells used in some of the lamp shades that come from the
> Philippines. Check on the internet for mica companies (there are
> several) and they can give you information on sizes and thicknesses of
> the material, and what if any colours they can provide.
>
> Steve
>
> In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, ATFSI@aol.com writes
> >
> > Does anyone know what kind etc of mica sheet is used instead of
> > glass as
> > accent in "tiffany" ???? type of work. Are ther colors or is it a
> > texture
> > thing etc etc
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Jack
>
> --
> Steve Richard
> Verrier Art Glass Ltd
> s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
--
*********************************************************************
* Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood and/or Ralph Bernard Wood
* Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************
----
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 17 18:14:30 2001
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From: Dee Thompson
To: "Brad Walker" ,
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Fw: Glass Etching
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 20:51:03 -0500
Message-ID: <3.0.32.20010117204956.0075b37c@pop.erols.com>
Precedence: bulk
In the labratory supply catalogs there are an array of specific glass
pieces for lab work by quite a few manufacturers, He needs to go there and
talk to the manufacturers and if they don't have it, or know who does, they
can refer to companies that design shpecialty glassware for labs. Talk to
the sales rep that is hungriest for your university business! The specialty
glass makers are expensive, but a lot of etched slides are already
available, and these manufacturers would probably be the best to ask.
Dee
At 01:12 PM 1/17/01 -0500, Brad Walker wrote:
>Anyone have the ability to do this?
>
>(Or know someone who does?)
>
----
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 17 20:19:49 2001
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From: Joan
To: meryder@postoffice.pacbell.net
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Las Vegas Glass Crafters Expo
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 20:02:20 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk
Hi!
I am signed up to attend the Vegas Glass Expo as well.
I'll be taking the fused dichroic glass jewelry, but
not on Sunday.
It would be fun to have a bungi get together.
Joan
--- meryder@postoffice.pacbell.net wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> We're looking forward to meeting any Bungians that
> go to the Las Vegas
> Show. This will be our first time there. We're
> really so exicted!
>
> I'm signed up for a whole bunch of classes. I feel
> like I'm making up
> for all years that I couldn't get there.
>
> Thursday: Slab Glass, Hot & Wired
> Friday, Sculpted Solder, Uroboros Fusion FX
> Saturday, Stack/Block Fusing
> Sunday, Fused Dichroic Jewelry
>
> After Las Vegas we're heading on east to Albuquerque
> for a week or so of
> pure vacationing, which will include a visit to the
> Stained Glass Center
> there. We'll be bringing our photos and would love
> to meet up with,
> have coffee or dinner, and share
> with any Bungians that are there. We're going to
> move to the
> Albuquerque area within the next 18 months.
>
> See you in 'Vegas soon!
> Best regards,
> Cheryl and Marty Ryder
>
>
>
>
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to:
> glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list, please mail to:
> glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
----
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 17 21:07:48 2001
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X-Path: slonet.org!edupjohn
From: "Peggy W. Johnsen"
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Lampworking Equipment
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 18:49:37 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk
My interest is turning to bead making and since I haven't paid any
attention to what those of you working in beads have said, I am now asking
what is the basic lampworking equipment? Any help or advice you might
have would certainly be appreciated. Peggy
----
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From owner-glass Thu Jan 18 05:55:56 2001
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From: "Jerri"
To: "Peggy W. Johnsen" ,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Lampworking Equipment
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 08:46:17 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk
Hi Peggy,
I'm a lampwork addict, er beadmaker.
The book, "Making Glass Beads" covers everything you need to start, and
goes over a lot of techniques. I know I've heard several people say they
taught themselves with this book. This book also has great photos, and once
you start bead making, it's fun to study the photos and figure out how the
beads were made.
Basically you need a torch, compatible glass rods (You can even used
stained glass scraps, if you use hemostats to hold the glass), mandrells, a
marver, bead hole cleaners. A tungsten pick is great for poking and making
bubbles.
Let me know if I can answer any more questions.
Jerri
www.beadbimbo.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peggy W. Johnsen"
To: