From owner-glass Sun Oct  1 11:37:05 2000
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From: Mscottcaudle@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Slides of contemporary stained glass
Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2000 14:26:56 EDT
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I am doing a presentation for art history on contemporary stained glass. I am 
looking for slides (35 mm) of this kind of art to use in my presentation. Do 
you have any idea where I could find these? Thanks for your help.

Maggi Caudle
mscottcaudle@aol.com
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From owner-glass Sun Oct  1 12:28:24 2000
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From: "Linda Jo Letscher" <andor@ilnk.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: Slides of contemporary stained glass
Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2000 14:46:21 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Maggie,
A company named Super Stock in Jacksonville, Florida is a respository for
pictures and sounds for the film industry, TV, etc., you might contact them
and find out what they will charge you for what you want.  And if they have
it.  Good luck in your quest.
Eljay
-----Original Message-----
From: Mscottcaudle@aol.com <Mscottcaudle@aol.com>
To: glass@bungi.com <glass@bungi.com>
Date: Sunday, October 01, 2000 2:45 PM
Subject: Slides of contemporary stained glass


>I am doing a presentation for art history on contemporary stained glass. I
am
>looking for slides (35 mm) of this kind of art to use in my presentation.
Do
>you have any idea where I could find these? Thanks for your help.
>
>Maggi Caudle
>mscottcaudle@aol.com
>----
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>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


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From owner-glass Sun Oct  1 20:30:07 2000
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From: officerjqg@policeone.com
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Subject: Gold Continued
Date: 1 Oct 2000 20:16:26 -0700
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OK I think that we will convince them that it is not doable  I will put in a link to a picture of said angle so that I would not be labeled as lazy.  So if your interested take a look.  It is the first time I am doing this in this type of environment but it should work.  I will also include a pic of my first leaded piece that is also my original design.  If I do it again I will change some things but I am pleased with the results.  
These pictures were intended for my personal use so I did not take the time to make them more professional.  The links are
www.geocities.com/officerjqg/052.jpg
www.geocities.com/officerjqg/056.jpg
I would strongly encourage others to post pieces that they have done or are talking about.  I will assist anyone that is interested in this type of thing (if it works)  I paid nothing extra to do it.

James


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From owner-glass Mon Oct  2 09:33:51 2000
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From: "steve" <charliehodge@ltdarkpoet.junglelink.co.uk>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: stained glass in uk
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 17:15:44 +0100
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does anyone know of a stained glasss artist in the county durham area or in
the north west of england

cheers steve


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From owner-glass Mon Oct  2 12:33:28 2000
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From: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie_Spitzer@stratus.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE: cracked glass
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 12:01:32 -0700 
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a cracked piece of glass leaning up against something is really a time bomb
waiting to go off. it can, and will, finish cracking at any point in the
future even without a touch or another bump.

when i toured the kokomo factory, they didn't allow people to walk down the
aisle where the glass was stored in large (2'x8') sheets vertically, stating
that they've had sheets go poof without any external causes.

that said, you could (lightly) tap it with a knuckle. it sounds different if
it has a crack; sort of a thud rather than a crisp ringing noise. also,
you'd want to be well prepared for it exploding when you did so, wearing
protective clothing, away from others, outside, etc.

regards,
charlie
phx, az

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Lorley Oneyear [mailto:lorley@home.com]
> Sent: Friday, September 29, 2000 4:25 PM
> To: glass@bungi.com
> Subject: cracked glass
> 
> 
> Our black lab bumped up against a sheet of glass and it fell 
> against a 
> wooden leg of my work bench. The dog is fine, but the glass 
> cracked and 
> broke a bit. The glass is a real light glue chip type glass. 
> I think they 
> call it"oceana"?? With all those swirls and chips in the 
> glass design, how 
> will I know if the glass is or is not really cracked? Lorley
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From owner-glass Mon Oct  2 20:27:35 2000
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From: "J. Dahlin" <jdahlin@pro-ns.net>
To: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@ix.netcom.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Gold (in them thar hills)
Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2000 21:58:20 -0500
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I was out of town for the weekend and busy getting ready for some craft
shows that will be coming up all too soon.

Yes, I do a lot of gold plating and it isn't as expensive as most people
think.  I use a company here in Minneapolis called J&R Gold Plating.  I
think they do very good work.  My husband takes my things in while I am
at work so I don't actually go in to their shop very often.  When he is
there is sees pallets of work from all over the country that have been
shipped in.

They are located at 1809 Hennepin Avenue East, Minneapolis, MN  55413
and their phone number is (612) 331-7366.

Hope that helps.

Joanne



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From owner-glass Mon Oct  2 20:59:25 2000
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From: rrk <ezbongo2@pacbell.net>
To: Bungi Group <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Subject: Books about L.C. Tiffany
Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2000 16:43:28 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Hi folks,

I've decided to actually purchase some books about
L.C. Tiffany.

I'm mainly interested in books with pictures, the
larger the better =85 and picture quality counts.
I'm completely uninterested in commentary of the
art critic variety, nor do I require any boring
"scholarly" interpretation (other than simple
factual history) since res ipsa loquitur (the
thing speaks for itself).

So, I don't want commentary, just pictures and
maybe a little historical documentation.

I'm pretty sure we have some "Tiffany scholars" on
this list <G> =85 so =85 which books do you recommend?

Regards to all ..... Bob K.


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From owner-glass Tue Oct  3 03:36:34 2000
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From: Peggy L Kinnetz <pkinnetz@juno.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: Re: Slides of contemporary stained glass
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 20:43:52 -0400
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Maggi,

I don't know how much time you have to get your slides, but I used to
work in my art dept.'s slide library while a student. The way they
increased their slide collection was to take a picture of a picture in a
book, using a tripod mounted camera with slide film. Then my job was to
cut the transparencies apart and mount them into permanent frames. Of
course you wouldn't have to mount them.  I can't give you any hints at
getting good pictures from the books, (I'm not a photographer), but
your'e pretty much unlimited as to the subject matter, assuming you have
the pictures in a book. And if you don't, you could always pull off some
images from the internet, print them in color, and then take your
picture. 

Peggy K.

On Sun, 1 Oct 2000 14:26:56 EDT Mscottcaudle@aol.com writes:
> I am doing a presentation for art history on contemporary stained 
> glass. I am 
> looking for slides (35 mm) of this kind of art to use in my 
> presentation. Do 
> you have any idea where I could find these? Thanks for your help.
> 
> Maggi Caudle
> mscottcaudle@aol.com
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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From owner-glass Tue Oct  3 05:58:43 2000
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X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: in need of information
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 08:37:58 -0400
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If anyone on the list knows any information about
this artist, please get in touch with Gina. Thanks.

Christie A. Wood - IGGA Exec. Director
North Wales, PA USA
-------------Forwarded Message-----------------
From:	gina schiavone, INTERNET:ginabevin@yahoo.com
To:	[unknown], INTERNET:info@igga.org
Date:	10/01/2000 11:06 PM
RE:	in need of information

I received a glass sculpture for my birthday. It is
two dolphins, not connected, one small and one large.
They are signed by the artist Ron Ray and dated 1994.
I would like some more information on the artist, if
possible.

thank you
gina schiavone
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From owner-glass Tue Oct  3 09:37:54 2000
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From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Slides of contemporary stained glass
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 11:58:03 -0400
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Message text written by Peggy L Kinnetz
>And if you don't, you could always pull off some
images from the internet, print them in color, and then take your
picture. <

Careful.  Copyright laws apply here.  Make sure you have
permission from the owner of the images.

Christie A. Wood
North Wales, PA USA
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From owner-glass Tue Oct  3 09:38:44 2000
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From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: IGGA members: Business opportunity
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 11:57:53 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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This business opportunity is available to members of the International
Guild of Glass Artists (IGGA).  If you are interested, please send me
an email and I'll forward the full details to you.

Thank you.
Christie A. Wood - IGGA Exec. Director
info@igga.org    or   Ensembles@compuserve.com
-------------------------------------------------------------
>Greetings!

I am the Vice President of Marketing and Exhibition Development
for the Neustadt Museum of Tiffany Art, based in New York and
affiliated with the Queens Museum of Art.  The Egon and Hildegard
Neustadt Collection, part of which was donated to the New York
Historical Society, is primariy Tiffany lamps and windows, and we
are currently looking for a firm that can create for us glass christmas
tree ornaments painted to resemble the Tiffany Water Lily Globe in
our collection (these are extremely rare, and we can supply whatever
photographic material might be necessary to create such an item.

The idea is to create an ornament that can be supplied individually
packaged for sale in primarily museum shops, and that are
reasonably priced for such a specialty item.

I am writing in the hopes that either someone in the guild can help us
or that you can direct me to an appropriate source.

Thanks so much for your attention to this inquiry.<
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From owner-glass Tue Oct  3 13:10:28 2000
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From: Leslye <leslye2@discover.earthlink.net>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: to reinforce or not, that is the  question
Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2000 07:26:04 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Organization: GlassWorks by Leslye
Precedence: bulk

I have a job sent from heaven.  All this guy wants is obscure glass in
his 2 36"x45" bathroom windows.  If I divide one window up into 9
squares of glass will I need to reinforce?  They will be behind
plantation shutters.  I am thinking I need to reinforce.  Confirmation?
thanks,
Leslye

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From owner-glass Tue Oct  3 14:38:58 2000
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From: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie_Spitzer@stratus.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE: to reinforce or not, that is the  question
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 13:38:57 -0700 
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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yes. not only that, if you are making large pieces all in a line that goes
from one edge to another, there's a good change the entire window will fold
on a line. pieces that nest together make a stronger window.

you'd really want a heavy frame around something like this.

regards,
charlie
phx, az 

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Leslye [mailto:leslye2@discover.earthlink.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2000 4:26 AM
> To: Bungi
> Subject: to reinforce or not, that is the question
> 
> 
> I have a job sent from heaven.  All this guy wants is obscure glass in
> his 2 36"x45" bathroom windows.  If I divide one window up into 9
> squares of glass will I need to reinforce?  They will be behind
> plantation shutters.  I am thinking I need to reinforce.  
> Confirmation?
> thanks,
> Leslye
> 
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From owner-glass Tue Oct  3 15:58:13 2000
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: PookyPook@aol.com
Subject: Pricing (was: New to the list)
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 22:38:56 +0100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk

Ruth,
There is no BEST method for pricing.  

One is to consider what you want to be paid per hour PLUS your overheads
- heat, light, rent, etc.  PLUS materials (the last two annual costs
divided by the annual hours used in producing items).  Multiply this by
your time to product the item.
Another is to see what the market will bear
Another is to price by the number of pieces
Another is to price by area

In all cases keep records of the time taken, the size, the number of
pieces, the costs of materials, etc.  This will enable you to put a
reasonable price on the items.

There is a brief note on pricing records in the IGGA Newsletter from
about 1998 or 99.  (Guess who wrote it?)

Steve
In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, PookyPook@aol.com writes
>Also, what is the best rule of thumb for pricing? I have recently gotten 
>oodles of orders and am curious. I was told I am waaaay to low, but hate to 
>over charge. Would love some feedback. An example piece would be a suncatcher 
>about 10 inches long and about 6 or 7 inches wide.
>
>Thanks in advance for any and all help.
>
>Ruth
-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Tue Oct  3 16:12:51 2000
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From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Anna Verbsky Sagami <avssg@bankpds.com>
Subject: Re: Fusing
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 22:32:43 +0100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk

I don't know if you have had a reply to your enquiry yet, so here is a
suggestion, Anna

In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, Anna Verbsky Sagami <avssg@bankpds.com>
writes
>
>I have a question for the Fusing people out there...  I am getting a =
>light fog on some of my pieces (not all of them).  Slumping small =
>votives.  The plates don't ever fog?  I am confused.....
>
This is probably the first sign of devitrification.  Some glasses and
colours within ranges are prone to this more than others.  So consider
whether particular colours or types of glass get this more than others.

This can be changed by using devit. spray, or (my preference) taking to
a slightly higher temperature, and cooling immediately, without any
dwell at the slumping temperature.  This means you have to use a higher
temp. of course.

More information on the types, and colours you are using that both get
and don't get devit. would be helpful.
Steve

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Tue Oct  3 16:22:29 2000
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Colin Pinker <charcol@iafrica.com>
Subject: Re: Where did I go wrong????
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 22:55:06 +0100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk

Charmaine,
        For a multi-paneled (i.e. more than 4) lamp shade, I tin all the
foiled edges, then put face down on the bench in a fan shape, each piece
touching.  I then use masking tape on the cleaned panels, using one
piece to cross several panels.  I tape top and bottom.  

Then I fill a bucket with crushed newspaper, and put my fan into it,
pushing it down until the open sides touch.  Then I tape it across these
edges too.  I ensure it is touching all around, and tack solder at the
bottom edge, which is now facing up, of course.  You can put copper or
brass wire on the bottom edge at this point, but I don't usually.

Now the tricky part, getting it out of the bucket without breaking it
up.  Just be careful and you should be able to invert it and tack solder
the top edge.  Put the cap on and solder it to the panels,  then it
should be fairly rigid. 

Support it on blocks of wood or newspaper wrapped bricks to get a
horizontal line and solder the bead.  Alternatively, you can do the
internal beads first, as they will be horizontal on the bench.  This
will make the shade more rigid for the external beading.

Steve


In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, Colin Pinker <charcol@iafrica.com> writes
>This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
>
>------=_NextPart_000_001F_01C018FB.80215560
>Content-Type: text/plain;
>       charset="iso-8859-1"
>Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
>
>Hi All,
>=20
>I have just tried to complete an 8 panel lamp with a diamond shape =
>jutting out of the centre bottom of each panel.  I tried, 4 times, to =
>put the lamp together and after the 5th try, I was ready to personally =
>smash the hole lamp. =20
>
>I tried various methods, once tack soldering and then pulling all 8 =
>panels up.  The foil kept on pulling away in certain stress areas.I then =
>stripped all panels of foil, washed well with warm soapy water, =
>refoiled, and this time tried with masking tape, making x's across all =
>panels,  tack soldered, and this also did not work - foil pulled lose =
>again.  Stripped, washed etc.  I then tried working from the inside, =
>tack soldering two panels at a time, turning right side up, shaping and =
>bending to get a shape with the two panels, more fixed soldering on =
>right side and then repeating the process on the other panels - I now =
>had four panels that were fairly firm, I then tried to put these four =
>panels together, but with a lamp that was fairly large i.e. each panel =
>size was approx 6inches tapering to 2inches and 12 inches long, I was =
>all thumbs (I did at this point have an extra pair of hands holding) =
>whilst I was trying to solder quickly - but, alas, once again, in places =
>the foil started pulling away. =20
>
>Let me just mention, that after grinding each piece, I did wash and dry =
>each piece individually before foiling.
>
>Where did I go wrong?????  I spoke to the person that originally taught =
>me stained glass and he felt that I should only have fitted the jutting =
>diamond after completing the whole lamp.  Can this possibly be the only =
>reason for my difficulty!!!
>
>Any advise would be appreciated.
>
>Regards
>Charmaine Pinker
>
>------=_NextPart_000_001F_01C018FB.80215560
>Content-Type: text/html;
>       charset="iso-8859-1"
>Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
>
><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
><HTML>
><HEAD>
>
><META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
>http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
><META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
></HEAD>
><BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
><DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Hi All,</FONT></DIV>
><DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp;</FONT></DIV>
><DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I have just tried to complete an 8 =
>panel lamp=20
>with a diamond shape jutting out of the centre bottom of each =
>panel.&nbsp; I=20
>tried, 4 times, to put the lamp together and after the 5th try, I was =
>ready to=20
>personally smash the hole lamp.&nbsp;&nbsp;</FONT></DIV>
><DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
><DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I tried various methods, once tack =
>soldering and=20
>then pulling all 8 panels up.&nbsp; The foil kept on pulling away in =
>certain=20
>stress areas.I then stripped all panels of foil, washed well with warm =
>soapy=20
>water, refoiled, and this time tried with masking tape, making x's =
>across all=20
>panels,&nbsp; tack soldered, and this also did not work - foil pulled =
>lose=20
>again.&nbsp; Stripped, washed etc.&nbsp; I then tried working from the =
>inside,=20
>tack soldering two panels at a time, turning right side up, shaping and =
>bending=20
>to get a shape with the two panels, more fixed soldering on right side =
>and then=20
>repeating the process on the other panels - I now had four panels that =
>were=20
>fairly firm, I then tried to put these four panels together, but with a =
>lamp=20
>that was fairly large i.e. each panel size was approx 6inches tapering =
>to=20
>2inches and 12 inches long, I was all thumbs (I did at this point have =
>an extra=20
>pair of hands holding) whilst I was trying to solder quickly - but, =
>alas, once=20
>again, in places the foil started pulling away.&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
><DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
><DIV><FONT size=3D2>Let me just mention, that after grinding each piece, =
>I did=20
>wash and dry each piece individually before foiling.</FONT></DIV>
><DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
><DIV><FONT size=3D2>Where did I go wrong?????&nbsp; I spoke to the =
>person that=20
>originally taught me stained glass and he felt that I should only have =
>fitted=20
>the jutting diamond after completing the whole lamp.&nbsp; Can this =
>possibly be=20
>the only reason for my difficulty!!!</FONT></DIV>
><DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
><DIV><FONT size=3D2>Any advise would be appreciated.</FONT></DIV>
><DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
><DIV><FONT size=3D2>Regards</FONT></DIV>
><DIV><FONT size=3D2>Charmaine Pinker</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
>
>------=_NextPart_000_001F_01C018FB.80215560--
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
----
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From owner-glass Tue Oct  3 16:25:02 2000
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From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Shirley <sparent@uniserve.com>
Subject: Re: First Leaded Piece
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 23:06:17 +0100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<E13XeRc-000NDD-00@mail2.uniserve.com>>
Precedence: bulk

You have already had a reply from Christie, so this is just an addition.

In message <E13XeRc-000NDD-00@mail2.uniserve.com>, Shirley
<sparent@uniserve.com> writes
>1. Is calcium carbonate something I should be able to buy even in a small
>town?
As I understand it Calcium Carbonate is chalk.
>2. What exactly is lamp black?  We have something called stove black that
>you use to make your wood stove look lovely after years of use.  Is this
>the same thing?  
As Christie says, it will do the job excellently.  
>3.  Should your putty be the consistency of pancake batter or peanut butter?
>I have to admit that I am pleased with the look of the project.  It is a
>simple sort of Victorian design that I made up and measures 18" x 12" but I
>am petrified to start soldering and muck the whole thing up but excited at
>the same time. 
>One last question.
>After I have soldered and applied putty etc, it says I should let it dry a
>day or two but at what point would I patina or would it look okay as is?
>Any help with this would be greatly appreciated.
If you make the cement to a brushable consistency, you keep brushing the
whiting in until it is very dusty.  Then you use a softer brush and
clean up the excess cement.  This will cause the lead to blacken and the
solder joints to go dark too.  Much better than putting an acid on the
window.
Steve

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
----
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From owner-glass Tue Oct  3 17:14:55 2000
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X-Path: juno.com!pkinnetz
From: Peggy L Kinnetz <pkinnetz@juno.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: Re: Slides of contemporary stained glass
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 19:43:12 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Christie,

You're absolutely right about the copyright laws. However, if it is for
your own use, you could use them, I think.  I'm thinking the main intent
of the copyright law is to protect the ownership -- if it is not to use
the images for moneymaking, or to go around the possibility of the owner
making some money, then it is not likely that someone would be after you,
legally.  But of course, the safe way would be to get the owner's
permisision.  Peggy

On Tue, 3 Oct 2000 11:58:03 -0400 "Christie A. Wood"
<Ensembles@compuserve.com> writes:
> Message text written by Peggy L Kinnetz
> >And if you don't, you could always pull off some
> images from the internet, print them in color, and then take your
> picture. <
> 
> Careful.  Copyright laws apply here.  Make sure you have
> permission from the owner of the images.
> 
> Christie A. Wood
> North Wales, PA USA
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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From owner-glass Tue Oct  3 21:43:24 2000
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X-Path: aol.com!Bobfuses
From: Bobfuses@aol.com
To: leslye2@discover.earthlink.net, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: to reinforce or not, that is the  question
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 00:04:32 EDT
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

In a message dated 10/3/00 1:11:16 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
leslye2@discover.earthlink.net writes:

> I have a job sent from heaven.  All this guy wants is obscure glass in
>  his 2 36"x45" bathroom windows.  If I divide one window up into 9
>  squares of glass will I need to reinforce?  They will be behind
>  plantation shutters.  I am thinking I need to reinforce.  Confirmation?
>  thanks,
>  Leslye

I would use brass reinforced lead as made by Cascade. Otherwise, use a couple 
of 1/8" X 1/2" rebars either vertical or horizontal.

Cheers, Bob in 9 2 0 2 6
Learn from the mistakes of others. You can't live long enough to make them 
all yourself.
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From owner-glass Wed Oct  4 00:58:08 2000
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From: "D. ONeal" <Moya-Don@worldnet.att.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Reply: To reinforce or not that is the question
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 23:59:41 -0400
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Reinforce!
If there is ever doubt then you know you should.
Moya

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From owner-glass Wed Oct  4 05:48:59 2000
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From: rrk <ezbongo2@pacbell.net>
To: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Subject: Re: Slides of contemporary stained glass
Date: Wed, 04 Oct 2000 05:13:40 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@mta4.snfc21.pbi.net>>
Precedence: bulk


<<<<<
I am doing a presentation for art history on contemporary stained
glass. I am
looking for slides (35 mm) of this kind of art to use in my
presentation. Do
you have any idea where I could find these? Thanks for your help.

Maggi Caudle
mscottcaudle@aol.com
>>>>>

"Christie A. Wood" wrote:

> Message text written by Peggy L Kinnetz
> >And if you don't, you could always pull off some
> images from the internet, print them in color, and then take your
> picture. <
>
> Careful.  Copyright laws apply here.  Make sure you have
> permission from the owner of the images.

Hi Christie and Maggi  and Peggy,

As a matter of fact, for such a presentation, the fair use clause of
Copyright Law of the United States of America,

see http://www.loc.gov/copyright/title17/92chap1.html#107

permits fair use of copyrighted images without obtaining permission
=66rom the author or compensating said author.

<<<
=A7 107. Limitations on exclusive rights: Fair use

Notwithstanding the provisions of sections 106 and 106A, the fair use
of a copyrighted work, including such use by reproduction in copies
or phonorecords or by any other means specified by that section, for
purposes such as criticism, comment, news reporting, teaching
(including multiple copies for classroom use), scholarship, or
research, is not an infringement of copyright. In determining whether
the use made of a work in any particular case is a fair use the
factors to be considered shall include-

(1) the purpose and character of the use, including whether such use
is of a commercial nature or is for nonprofit educational purposes;

(2) the nature of the copyrighted work;

(3) the amount and substantiality of the portion used in relation to
the copyrighted work as a whole; and

(4) the effect of the use upon the potential market for or value of
the copyrighted work.

The fact that a work is unpublished shall not itself bar a finding of
fair use if such finding is made upon consideration of all the above
factors.

>>>

So, for your art history presentation (which is clearly an
educational and non-profit fair use of the images) you can copy the
images, make slides of them, or whatever ... you have the right to do
so under the law.

Best regards .... Bob K





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From owner-glass Wed Oct  4 08:02:47 2000
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From: meryder@postoffice.pacbell.net
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Books about L.C. Tiffany
Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2000 16:35:58 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@mta4.snfc21.pbi.net>>
Precedence: bulk

Hi Bob,

If photos and provenance all you're interested in,  I recommend Auction
Catalogs.
There are a couple of websites that provide these via credit card order
and mail:

www.ephemerata.com
www.catalogkid.com

The difficulty here is that, while the catalogs contain excellent
photographs of Tiffany's works, there are few catalogs that contain only
Tiffany's work....

I recommend Alastair Duncan's books...most are out of print now, but
some are still available through Amazon.com, Barnes & Noble, and "Used
Book" web sites.

Also try the Amazon and e-Bay auction sites.

Good Luck Hunting,

Cheryl Ryuder



rrk wrote:

> Hi folks,
>
> I've decided to actually purchase some books about
> L.C. Tiffany.
>
> I'm mainly interested in books with pictures, the
> larger the better =85 and picture quality counts.
> I'm completely uninterested in commentary of the
> art critic variety, nor do I require any boring
> "scholarly" interpretation (other than simple
> factual history) since res ipsa loquitur (the
> thing speaks for itself).
>
> So, I don't want commentary, just pictures and
> maybe a little historical documentation.
>
> I'm pretty sure we have some "Tiffany scholars" on
> this list <G> =85 so =85 which books do you recommend?
>
> Regards to all ..... Bob K.
>
> ----
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From owner-glass Wed Oct  4 09:06:18 2000
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Bobfuses@aol.com
Subject: Fusing & colour stability (Was: Solder, Glass Manufacturers, and basic tools and a PS (Was:Questions from...
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 22:42:00 +0100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk

This note of Bob's reinforces the need to test each time before
committing lots of glass to the kiln.
Steve

In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, Bobfuses@aol.com writes
>In a message dated 9/5/00 4:35:25 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
>toby@northlights.co.uk writes:
>
>> PS   have others found that the color stability of Bullseye is less
>>  than satisfactory when fusing and slumping?
>
>I sure have and avoid Bullseye like the plague for fusing. I once bought a 
>square foot of Bullseye tested compatible whispy pink for a lot of $s, fused 
>it and produced a BROWN rose. Then used cheap Spectrum whispy pink and fused 
>up a fine rose.
>
>In my experience, opacity will increase with the degree of fusing with most 
>glass. Hot colors like red, yellow and pink may shift to something nasty. 
>Spectrum and Desag seem to hold up the best. 
>
>Cheers, Bob in 9 2 0 2 6
>Learn from the mistakes of others. You can't live long enough to make them 
>all yourself.
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
----
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From owner-glass Wed Oct  4 14:06:07 2000
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: tuka@attcanada.net
Subject: Re: Haze between windows
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 07:47:44 +0100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk

Yes, you have condensation in the gap between the two.
You need ventilation holes.
As I understand it you have the whole sealed with wood, so drill a
couple of 1/4 inch holes in the bottom and in the top to allow air
circulation.  If they are on the outside, angle them downwards to the
outside to avoid any water running in.
        For new ones incorporate a ventilation channel or gap at the top
and bottom.  This can be done by propping the s.g. panel on wood blocks
at the bottom, and leaving a gap at the top.  Do not fit the retaining
material tight to the panel at top and bottom, or leave a slot at the
perimeter to let air come under at the bottom, and over at the top and
into the space between the glasses.

Steve
 
In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, tuka@attcanada.net writes
>I need help, please........
>
.....cut.......
>
>A white haze has developed between the stained glass and the existing
>windows.
>
>I suspect the only way to get rid of it is to remove the mouldings, and the
>windows and clean them.
>
>Any idea what has caused this and how to prevent it in future?
>
>Thanks in advance
>
>Shiela
>
>
>
>----
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-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Wed Oct  4 15:35:49 2000
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Peggy L Kinnetz <pkinnetz@juno.com>
Subject: Re: Slides of contemporary stained glass
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 08:02:45 +0100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk

Actually, you are not using them for your own use.  You are showing them
to others.
You should be taken as meaning the original writer.
Steve

In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, Peggy L Kinnetz <pkinnetz@juno.com>
writes
>Christie,
>
>You're absolutely right about the copyright laws. However, if it is for
>your own use, you could use them, I think.  I'm thinking the main intent
>of the copyright law is to protect the ownership -- if it is not to use
>the images for moneymaking, or to go around the possibility of the owner
>making some money, then it is not likely that someone would be after you,
>legally.  But of course, the safe way would be to get the owner's
>permisision.  Peggy
>
>On Tue, 3 Oct 2000 11:58:03 -0400 "Christie A. Wood"
><Ensembles@compuserve.com> writes:
>> Message text written by Peggy L Kinnetz
>> >And if you don't, you could always pull off some
>> images from the internet, print them in color, and then take your
>> picture. <
>> 
>> Careful.  Copyright laws apply here.  Make sure you have
>> permission from the owner of the images.
>> 
>> Christie A. Wood
>> North Wales, PA USA
>> ----
>> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com    
>> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
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-- 
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Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Wed Oct  4 15:41:13 2000
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: tuka@attcanada.net
Subject: Re: Haze between windows
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 07:50:06 +0100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk

Oh,  and get rid of the foam tape as that effectively seals the stained
glass.  More important to ventilate than worry about expansion.  You
could also drill the zinc to provide the ventilation, I guess.

Steve
In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, tuka@attcanada.net writes
>I need help, please........
>
>I've been working on a large commission for windows for a Victorian church
>restoration.
>
>The first nine were installed in May 2000.  The windows are copper foil with
>a 3/4 inch zinc border that is not puttied (to allow for air expansion when
>the windows get hot from the sun).  The existing windows in the building are
>double sealed non-opening ones.  A foam tape was applied to the back of the
>zinc and the stained glass windows were screwed directly to the wooden
>frames of the windows.  Then a wooden moulding was installed on top of the
>zinc.
>
>A white haze has developed between the stained glass and the existing
>windows.
>
>I suspect the only way to get rid of it is to remove the mouldings, and the
>windows and clean them.
>
>Any idea what has caused this and how to prevent it in future?
>
>Thanks in advance
>
>Shiela
>
>
>
>----
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-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Wed Oct  4 16:03:21 2000
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X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Just passing this along...from Russia
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 18:09:01 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

The following information was sent to the IGGA website.  It is
being passed along as a service to our members, and does not
guarantee authentication of subject matter from the sender.

Christie A. Wood - IGGA Exec. Director
North Wales, PA USA
---------------------------------
Dear ladies and sirs!
We have honour to offer for you compositions of rare beuty from rock
crystal (quartz). We
have not found analogues works all over the world.
You can see a part of a collections on www.crystal.alfa.com.ru
With pleasure we shall answer all questions on
E-mail:
vakian@netclub.ru  or      melz@cityline.ru
 =

With the best regards
The chief of a department of marketing JSC MELZ (Moscow)
Vadim L. Kirianov  =

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From owner-glass Wed Oct  4 16:04:35 2000
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X-Path: hotmail.com!chipleyarts
From: "Jonathan Smith" <chipleyarts@hotmail.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
Subject: Soldering Problems
Date: Wed, 04 Oct 2000 17:28:09 EDT
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

I have just completed my second project. I did a really poor job soldering. 
No doubt this is due in large measure to my inexperience. But I also wonder 
if I may have a lower quality soldering iron. I am using an Inland TempTrol 
100 which was included in the start-up kit I ordered. As I tried to solder, 
it seemed that the iron wouldn't melt the solder, then all of a sudden, it 
would come gushing. It was almost as if the iron's temperature was uneven. 
The result was solder lines which are lumpy.

Do any of you have any experience with this brand/model soldering iron?
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From owner-glass Wed Oct  4 16:21:28 2000
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: tuka@attcanada.net
Subject: Re: Venting windows to prevent haze - another question
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 07:57:20 +0100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk

Sheila,
        In an installation I am erecting next week, I have had the
wooden frames made so that the top and bottom rails are thinner than the
verticals.  The panel fits tight to the wood, which is thicker than the
panel, and when installed, provides the ventilation. The amount of
ventilation required is very small.  Research at York Minster showed
that the air flow needed to be only about one metre per hour.  Also that
the air flow was not from bottom to top or vice versa, but up toward the
middle and down toward the middle and then back out.
        Each installation requires a bit of ingenuity to provide an
appropriate solution.

Steve
In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, tuka@attcanada.net writes
>Thanks to all who replied on my haze problem with the windows..... now, the
>$64,000 question..... how can they be installed so there is sufficient air
>movement to prevent this happening in future?
>
>My client is very clear that there has to be the wood moulding installed
>over the stained glass window edges.  This is a heritage building and the
>trim around the stained glass has to match the rest of the trim in the
>building or they will not be happy with the finished product.
>
>Thanks again
>Shiela
>
>
>----
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>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
----
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From owner-glass Wed Oct  4 19:51:22 2000
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X-Path: usa.net!bordolois
From: sangeeta bordoloi <bordolois@usa.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: stained glass equipment
Date:  4 Oct 00 20:30:50 MDT
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

hi!
i am a tourist in the United States and stained glass is my hobby. i have=
 made
some lamps and photoframes but in my country all the equipment to pursue =
this
hobby as a profession is not available. i am staying in minneapolis and w=
ould
really appreciate it if you could gude me as to which are the places in
minneapolis where i could get the required equipments like the grinder,
cutter, copper foil etc.
thank you.
regards...sangeeta

____________________________________________________________________
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1
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From owner-glass Wed Oct  4 21:42:10 2000
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X-Path: worldnet.att.net!Moya-Don
From: "D. ONeal" <Moya-Don@worldnet.att.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE: Stained Glass Equipment
Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2000 00:18:07 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Sangeeta,

The best way to find information on stained glass supplies is to look in the
telephone book.  The book with yellow pages is where you will find
commercial things.  Look under ART GLASS, GLASS, GLASS SUPPLIES, STAINED
GLASS  and STAINED GLASS SUPPLIES.

Good luck,
Moya

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From owner-glass Wed Oct  4 22:42:06 2000
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X-Path: hotmail.com!akgunay
From: "R-Z Akgunay" <akgunay@hotmail.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
Subject: stained glass supplies
Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2000 08:28:43 EEST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

      I currently live in Beijing,China and was wondering where I could get 
stained glass supplies.Would ordering them from the US be the best 
choice?Thanks
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From owner-glass Wed Oct  4 23:16:59 2000
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From: "benjamin springer" <outerborneo@hotmail.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
Subject: Re: Soldering problems
Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2000 01:43:13 EDT
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

I had the same problems with the temptrol iron I used to use. Now I use a 
weller iron with temperature control. You can change the tips according to 
what temp you want it to stay. It requires an extra step but is well worth 
the time. I get an even temp on any of the tips I put in. When you get spare 
tips it should show the temp on the bottom of the tip 6=600*, 7=700* etc. 
Good luck.
benj
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From owner-glass Thu Oct  5 00:16:12 2000
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X-Path: slonet.org!edupjohn
From: "Peggy W. Johnsen" <edupjohn@slonet.org>
To: Leslye <leslye2@discover.earthlink.net>
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: to reinforce or not, that is the  question
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 18:44:32 -0700 (PDT)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Leslye:  Sounds like you may want to consider using zinc h-came.  That
will allow more strength and with a molding around the panel may be
sufficient without additional reinforcement.  Peggy

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From owner-glass Thu Oct  5 07:38:32 2000
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X-Path: aol.com!NEICYDENN
From: NEICYDENN@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: re:stained glass supplies
Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2000 09:44:28 EDT
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

In a message dated 10/4/2000 9:53:43 PM Central Daylight Time, 
bordolois@usa.net writes:

<< hi!
 i am a tourist in the United States and stained glass is my hobby. i have=
  made
 some lamps and photoframes but in my country all the equipment to pursue =
 this
 hobby as a profession is not available. i am staying in minneapolis and w=
 ould
 really appreciate it if you could gude me as to which are the places in
 minneapolis where i could get the required equipments like the grinder,
 cutter, copper foil etc.
 thank you.
 regards...sangeeta >>

Hello,
The best place I have found in or near  Mpls. is 
J Ring Glass Studio, 
 2408 Territorial Rd
St. Paul
the phone # 651-644-8193  
(they have a very large selection of just about anything you could need)

I also do online ordering through Warner Crivellaro - www. warner-criv.com
phone #'s international : 610-264-1100 or toll-free : 1-800-523-4242

Good luck and have fun with your new hobby and enjoy your visit here!
Denise
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From owner-glass Thu Oct  5 16:14:46 2000
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X-Path: netclub.ru!vakian
From: "VADIM" <vakian@netclub.ru>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: unique glass from Russia
Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2000 23:36:59 +0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_000F_01C02F25.27CA03E0
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="koi8-r"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Dear sirs !
Convincingly I ask to pay attention to works from a rock crystal-quartz =
placed in www.crystal.alfa.com.ru  It least we were not capable to find =
such works in all information resources accessible us.
We hope, that these works are professionally interesting to you and =
colleagues in IGGA. On the mentioned Page the small part of works of =
artist is shown.
With pleasure we shall answer all questions with E-mail: =
vakian@netclub.ru or melz@cityline.ru
With the regards
The chief of a department of marketing open JSC MELZ (Moscow)            =
         Vadim L. Kirianov

------=_NextPart_000_000F_01C02F25.27CA03E0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="koi8-r"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Dkoi8-r http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#939656>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Dear sirs !</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Convincingly I ask to pay attention =
to works=20
from a rock crystal-quartz placed in <A=20
href=3D"http://www.crystal.com.ru">www.crystal.alfa.com.ru</A>&nbsp; It =
least we=20
were not capable to find such works in all information resources =
accessible=20
us.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>We hope, that these works are =
professionally=20
interesting to you and colleagues in IGGA. On the mentioned Page the =
small part=20
of works of artist is shown.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>With pleasure we shall answer all =
questions with=20
E-mail: <A href=3D"mailto:vakian@netclub.ru">vakian@netclub.ru</A> or <A =

href=3D"mailto:melz@cityline.ru">melz@cityline.ru</A></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>With the regards</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>The chief of a department of =
marketing open JSC=20
MELZ=20
(Moscow)&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp=
;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
Vadim L. Kirianov</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_000F_01C02F25.27CA03E0--

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From owner-glass Fri Oct  6 10:35:36 2000
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	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #490 built 2000-Oct-6)
X-Path: aol.com!Kauriee
From: Kauriee@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Window Delivery
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 12:40:58 EDT
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hello all,
I am wondering if any of you have ever had your customers sign a 
document...say an "acceptance agreement" or something along those lines, that 
states that the customer has inspected the window and finds there to be no 
defects, etc.? A way of covering yourself from someone turning around later 
and saying there was a crack or other problem at the time of delivery. Also, 
do any of you give your customers instructions on how to care for the window 
once it is installed? I am mainly referring to large leaded windows. What 
other things do you do for your customers upon delivery and installation of 
the windows? Do you provide a list of the glass used for possible future 
repairs? I am going to be delivering 4 large windows (5'x6') the end of this 
month, and would like to provide the customer with maintenance information 
(cleaning mostly), and anything else that might be of use to them, as well as 
protect myself. Just wondering what others do, and what your recommendations 
might be.

Thank you in advance!

Kauriee 


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From owner-glass Fri Oct  6 13:08:38 2000
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	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #490 built 2000-Oct-6)
X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Kauriee@aol.com
Subject: Re: Window Delivery
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 19:56:34 +0100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk

Kauriee, et. al.
        Good idea the signing off on the job.

        Maintenance guidance:  I have a leaflet on general maintenance
        that was prepared with an amenity organisation.  When my
        scanning software begins to behave itself again, I will send the
        text.

Steve

In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, Kauriee@aol.com writes
>Hello all,
>I am wondering if any of you have ever had your customers sign a 
>document...say an "acceptance agreement" or something along those lines, that 
>states that the customer has inspected the window and finds there to be no 
>defects, etc.? A way of covering yourself from someone turning around later 
>and saying there was a crack or other problem at the time of delivery. Also, 
>do any of you give your customers instructions on how to care for the window 
>once it is installed? I am mainly referring to large leaded windows. What 
>other things do you do for your customers upon delivery and installation of 
>the windows? Do you provide a list of the glass used for possible future 
>repairs? I am going to be delivering 4 large windows (5'x6') the end of this 
>month, and would like to provide the customer with maintenance information 
>(cleaning mostly), and anything else that might be of use to them, as well as 
>protect myself. Just wondering what others do, and what your recommendations 
>might be.
>
>Thank you in advance!
>
>Kauriee 
>
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Fri Oct  6 15:19:59 2000
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Kauriee@aol.com
Subject: Re: Window Delivery
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 21:38:54 +0100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk

Hi,
I'm back with a working scanner.  the partial text of the care of
stained glass leaflet is attached below.

In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, Kauriee@aol.com writes
>Hello all,
....cut......
> Also, 
>do any of you give your customers instructions on how to care for the window 
>once it is installed? I am mainly referring to large leaded windows. 
....cut.....
> Do you provide a list of the glass used for possible future 
>repairs? 
There is no point in this, as by the time they will need to repair
anything, the glass will no longer be available.  It might also
encourage them to try the repairs themselves.

-----------------------
CARE OF STAINED GLASS


The West End's domestic stained glass has come under threat over the
years, from weathering, neglect and changing fashions. This leaflet has
been produced to help owners protect this special heritage by giving
guidance on basic maintenance and when and where to look for further
advice.

Leaded decorative panels may contain coloured, textured, painted, or
etched glass or a combination of these. Where the design includes
artwork painted on to the glass surface, any loss of this paint - a
fairly common problem - needs professional advice before any remedial
work, even cleaning, is undertaken.

WHAT YOU CAN DO YOURSELF TO MAINTAIN THE BEAUTY OF YOUR GLASS

Stained glass should be cleaned ONLY when dirty. Cleaning of any area
where the design such as a face or shading is 'painted' on the glass
should be left to the professional.

Spiders' webs can be removed annually with a feather duster or soft
brush.  To remove grease and other deposits, use a clean cotton cloth or
soft natural bristle brush which may be moistened with water, and, if
the deposits are stubborn, with a mild soap. The cloth should be renewed
when dirty as potentially abrasive particles may have adhered to it.
This method can also be used simultaneously to clean the lead cames" and
solder joints. Dry thoroughly and buff up with more soft cloth or a soft
brush to leave the glass sparkling.

Household detergents and abrasive cleaners should not be used.

Where dirt has built up and paint or varnish have been accidentally
splashed onto the glass, the method described above can also be used.
Acetone may be used sparingly with a cotton bud but NOT on painted
areas.

If the support bars are loose, check that the mouldings which hold them
are secure.

Loose or broken wires tying the lead to the bars may possibly be re-tied
but if they break or come loose, you will need an expert.

If secondary glazing is installed in external windows it must be
ventilated. If condensation is occurring, the space between needs more
ventilation by enlarging the size of the ventilation holes.

WHEN AN EXPERT 15 NEEDED TO COPE WITH THE PROBLEMS ARISING FROM AGEING
GLASS

Sagging or bulging panels may be the result of inadequate support or
"fatigued" lead.

Such panels will require professional removal, re-leading and attachment
of adequate supports.

Where a piece of stained or painted glass is missing, a specialist
should be consulted to replace it. Where a complete panel is missing, an
option may be an exact copy based on adjacent examples, or a suitable
new design may be commissioned.

If the sealant putty is loose or missing the window may leak or become
draughty Professional help will be needed to replace the putty.

Rattling panels may be caused by broken lead "cames" which may need to
be professionally replaced to avoid further problems or the complete
loss of the panel.

PROTECTION

 

Door entry systems provide general security for any stained glass inside
the flats and on common stairs. Any additional protection should however
be installed on the outside of the glass. Even though internal bars and
grills would prevent entry to the house, they do not protect the glass.

Wire guards will prevent damage from trees and flying objects, and can
be fitted to the window shape. They will not protect the glass from
weather, nor determined vandals. They will be obtrusive from both inside
and outside.

Plastic or polycarbonate sheeting provides a clear protection from
missiles, accidental damage and the weather, and can easily be cut to
the shape of the window opening. It must be ventilated to avoid
condensation. These sheets will be invisible from the inside, but create
distorted reflections from the outside.  Over time, the plastic will
become translucent and scratched. These plastics are also highly
flammable.

Glass sheeting comes in three forms:
* Wired glass is obtrusive, but resistant to most forms of vandalism and
fire.
* Toughened glass must be specially cut and treated, but is not
resistant to attack by sharp objects.
* Laminated glass is strong, invisible on the interior and exterior, but
very heavy, and difficult to cut for curved window openings.

Ventilation is vital. In all cases where sheeting is used, the space
between the window and the sheeting must be ventilated.

All work on stained and leaded glass needs to be done with great care.
The lead may be fragile and the glass may no longer be firmly held in
place.  Work on stained Glass is undertaken at your own Risk.  It is
advisable to consult a professional.

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Fri Oct  6 15:32:48 2000
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From: "Jonathon Henderson" <hendey@ala.nu>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: piece of glassware
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 16:42:17 -0500
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I have piece of glassware that is labeled Sooner Glass Handmade.  Is it =
worth anything?



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<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I have piece of glassware that is labeled Sooner =
Glass=20
Handmade.&nbsp; Is it worth anything?</FONT></DIV>
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From owner-glass Sat Oct  7 15:32:35 2000
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X-Path: aol.com!PookyPook
From: PookyPook@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Foil Repairs
Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 18:26:03 EDT
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

I have always had trouble taking things apart... I usually end up remaking 
the whole piece. Fortunately, they have been small. But, I would love to be 
able to take just one or two pieces out and put the new ones in without 
redoing the whole project. Try as I may, I cannot seem to get just one of the 
foiled pieces out.. the others crack or break and I just end up in a mess...  
What is the best way to handle repairs? Foil Repairs... I only use foil.  
Right now I have a dog's head that part of it cracked right next to the nose 
which is right in the center of the pieces!! Of course!!!  I am trying to get 
just the nose out but don't that I will be successful. I really could use 
some help here..... Thanks in advance...

Ruth
pookypook@AOL.com
http://members.aol.com/RTSkeeter
http://members.aol.com/Alyeska222
ICQ11716411
"Ever stop to think and forget to start again?" 
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From owner-glass Sat Oct  7 17:02:01 2000
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X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
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Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 19:34:45 -0400
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I received an email which is written in (I think) Portugese.  Can anyone
help me translate it, or suggest a website for accessing translating
packages?
Thanks.

Christie A. Wood
North Wales, PA USA
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From owner-glass Sat Oct  7 17:31:51 2000
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From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Foil Repairs
Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 19:59:52 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Message text written by INTERNET:PookyPook@aol.com
>I have always had trouble taking things apart... I usually end up remaki=
ng

the whole piece. Fortunately, they have been small. But, I would love to =
be

able to take just one or two pieces out and put the new ones in without =

redoing the whole project. Try as I may, I cannot seem to get just one of=

the =

foiled pieces out.. the others crack or break and I just end up in a
mess...  =

What is the best way to handle repairs? Foil Repairs... I only use foil. =
 =

Right now I have a dog's head that part of it cracked right next to the
nose =

which is right in the center of the pieces!! Of course!!!  I am trying to=

get =

just the nose out but don't that I will be successful. I really could use=
 =

some help here..... Thanks in advance...<

Nasty place, but isn't that always the way repairs are?

Before you do anything, make a rubbing of the broken piece so you
can make a copy.

Anyway....thoroughly score the broken piece.  I mean, score it and cross
score it and then score it some more.  Then take the ball end of a glass
cutter and tap out the score lines from the opposite side of the glass.
If you don't have one of the old glass cutters made out of metal with the=

ball on one end, get one.  I only use mine for copper foil repair jobs, b=
ut
they are invaluable for this.  If you score on one side of the glass, tap=

out on the other side.  Be sure to score at the corners of the piece too,=

so
you're not left with a piece of glass stuck in the corner (they are
difficult
to get out).  I hold the panel up vertically when tapping out the broken
piece.  Be sure to wear safety goggles, since the glass might splinter
and pop out in unexpected directions.  I also like to use grozing pliers
to pull out pieces away from the foil.

After you've removed the glass and are left with the hole, unsolder
it and finish the repair.  Best wishes.

Christie A. Wood
North Wales, PA USA
----
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From owner-glass Sat Oct  7 20:11:50 2000
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From: "Ran Green" <rangreen@urim.org.il>
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f`z di` decrd nxeaz glwim arivea MIME.

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i can i  put a photo betwin two shit of soldered glass.
ran green
israel

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<DIV><FONT face=3D"Arial (hebrew)" size=3D2>i can i  </FONT><FONT=20
face=3D"Arial (hebrew)" size=3D2>put a photo betwin two shit of soldered =

glass.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Arial (hebrew)" size=3D2>ran green</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Arial (hebrew)" =
size=3D2>israel</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-glass Sat Oct  7 20:33:04 2000
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From: Bobfuses@aol.com
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In a message dated 10/7/00 8:12:31 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
rangreen@urim.org.il writes:

> Can I put a photo between two sheets of soldered glass?

Sure you can. Be sure to use a very small amount of flux to avoid problems 
with it seeping between the glass. It would be good if you made a practice 
piece before making the final piece with the photo.

If you have wide foil you can foil both pieces of glass at once. Otherwise 
you can foil each piece separately and then use a third piece of foil to seal 
the two pieces together before soldering.

Cheers, Bob in 9 2 0 2 6
Learn from the mistakes of others. You can't live long enough to make them 
all yourself.
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From owner-glass Sun Oct  8 01:55:59 2000
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X-Path: aol.com!CINDEL67
From: CINDEL67@aol.com
To: GLASS@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: Foil Repairs
Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 04:30:28 EDT
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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In a message dated 10/7/00 5:34:32 PM US Eastern Standard Time, 
PookyPook@aol.com writes:

>  I have always had trouble taking things apart... I usually end up remaking 
>  the whole piece. Fortunately, they have been small. But, I would love to 
be 
>  able to take just one or two pieces out and put the new ones in without 
>  redoing the whole project. Try as I may, I cannot seem to get just one of 
>  the foiled pieces out. The others crack or break and I just end up in a 
mess... 
>  
>  What is the best way to handle repairs? Foil Repairs... I only use foil.  
>  Right now I have a dog's head that part of it cracked right next to the 
nose 
>  which is right in the center of the pieces!! Of course!!!  I am trying to 
get 
>  just the nose out but don't that I will be successful. I really could use 
>  some help here..... Thanks in advance...
>  
>  Ruth
>  pookypook@AOL.com



>Nasty place, but isn't that always the way repairs are?
>Before you do anything, make a rubbing of the broken piece so you
>can make a copy.
>Anyway....thoroughly score the broken piece.  I mean, score it and cross
>score it and then score it some more.  Then take the ball end of a glass
>cutter and tap out the score lines from the opposite side of the glass.
>If you don't have one of the old glass cutters made out of metal with the
>ball on one end, get one.  I only use mine for copper foil repair jobs, but
>they are invaluable for this.  If you score on one side of the glass, tap 
out on the >other side.  Be sure to score at the corners of the piece too, so 
you're not left with a >piece of glass stuck in the corner (they are 
difficult to get out).  I hold the panel up >vertically when tapping out the 
broken piece.  Be sure to wear safety goggles, >since the glass might 
splinter and pop out in unexpected directions.  I also like to >use grozing 
pliers to pull out pieces away from the foil.
>After you've removed the glass and are left with the hole, unsolder it and 
finish the >repair.  Best wishes.

>Christie A. Wood
>North Wales, PA USA



I also do exactly what Christie does....but I'm usually left with the foil 
still on the panel. (The solder & foil from the piece that I've removed).
 
I use a small piece of metal to help detach the soldered foil. To do this, I 
cut apart a soda can.  I cut about a 2X3 rectangle (or any size I need) from 
the can.  Then I wrap masking tape around one end so that I have something to 
hold onto with. The metal "tool" will get really hot when you continually 
touch it with the soldering iron. The tape acts as a buffer and it doesn't 
get hot. 

I now use this to wedge between the undamaged piece and the solder/foil from 
the damaged piece.  I move this along between the two pieces while I heat it 
with the soldering iron. The solder doesn't stick to the metal can......It 
works like a charm.

Cinda
Cindel67@aol.com
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From owner-glass Sun Oct  8 07:03:02 2000
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From: CncptThnkr@aol.com
To: CINDEL67@aol.com, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: Foil Repairs
Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 09:33:53 EDT
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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In a message dated 00-10-08 04:56:48 EDT, Cinda writes:

<< but I'm usually left with the foil 
 still on the panel. (The solder & foil from the piece that I've removed).
  
 I use a small piece of metal to help detach the soldered foil. To do this, I 
 cut apart a soda can.  I cut about a 2X3 rectangle (or any size I need) from 
 the can.  Then I wrap masking tape around one end so that I have something 
to 
 hold onto with. The metal "tool" will get really hot when you continually 
 touch it with the soldering iron. The tape acts as a buffer and it doesn't 
 get hot. 
 
 I now use this to wedge between the undamaged piece and the solder/foil from 
 the damaged piece.  I move this along between the two pieces while I heat it 
 with the soldering iron. The solder doesn't stick to the metal can......It 
 works like a charm. >>

I've done something similar but used a business card, it did get scorched 
from the iron but never burnt.  With stiff thick paper you don't have to 
worry about burning your fingers.  

Good luck.
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Subject: "NEED $100,200,300,OR MORE WEEKLY/MONTHLY!!!!!
Date: Sat, 07 Oct 00 14:36:48 EST
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From owner-glass Sun Oct  8 07:32:33 2000
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From: Cindy Purola <cpurola@ameritech.net>
To: Stained Glass List <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Soldering Foil over Foil
Date: Sun, 08 Oct 2000 10:14:08 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Precedence: bulk

Hi Bob,
  I have a follow-up question, even 'tho I did not pose the 
original.  :)
  I have made pressed flower sun catchers by foiling each
piece, then use the wide stuff on the edge to 'glue' them 
together. 
 When I solder the wide foil, it lifts up and
will not stay stuck to the foil beneath it.
Even if I burnish the heck out of it.

Question: How do I solder foil on foil without it letting
go? 


Bobfuses@aol.com wrote:
>
> If you have wide foil you can foil both pieces of glass at once. Otherwise
> you can foil each piece separately and then use a third piece of foil to seal
> the two pieces together before soldering.
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From owner-glass Sun Oct  8 12:10:20 2000
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From: Bobfuses@aol.com
To: cpurola@ameritech.net, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: Soldering Foil over Foil
Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 14:53:52 EDT
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

In a message dated 10/8/00 7:33:12 AM Pacific Daylight Time, 
cpurola@ameritech.net writes:

> When I solder the wide foil, it lifts up and
>  will not stay stuck to the foil beneath it.
> Even if I burnish the heck out of it.
>  
> Question: How do I solder foil on foil without it letting
> go? 

I think the foil lifting problem is caused by to much heat. Lay the piece to 
be soldered on a very damp cloth. The water tends to conduct excess heat away 
from the work. Also, let the piece go cold between solder passes. That should 
take care of the problem.

Cheers, Bob in 9 2 0 2 6
Learn from the mistakes of others. You can't live long enough to make them 
all yourself.
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From owner-glass Sun Oct  8 14:14:37 2000
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Cindy Purola <cpurola@ameritech.net>
Subject: Re: Soldering Foil over Foil
Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 21:09:16 +0100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk

Cindy,
        I'm not sure whether you have tinned the foil on each piece
before the attempt to put wide solder over the foiled pieces.  If you
have, why not just solder the two tinned pieces together without any
further foil?
        Or, why not use the wide foil as the only foil both to hold the
two pieces together and to make the permanent sealant by soldering the
(now) only piece of foil?

There may be many reasons against both of these of course.

Steve

In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, Cindy Purola <cpurola@ameritech.net>
writes
>Hi Bob,
>  I have a follow-up question, even 'tho I did not pose the 
>original.  :)
>  I have made pressed flower sun catchers by foiling each
>piece, then use the wide stuff on the edge to 'glue' them 
>together. 
> When I solder the wide foil, it lifts up and
>will not stay stuck to the foil beneath it.
>Even if I burnish the heck out of it.
>
>Question: How do I solder foil on foil without it letting
>go? 
>
>
>Bobfuses@aol.com wrote:
>>
>> If you have wide foil you can foil both pieces of glass at once. Otherwise
>> you can foil each piece separately and then use a third piece of foil to seal
>> the two pieces together before soldering.
>----
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-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Sun Oct  8 20:56:44 2000
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X-Path: home.com!esavad
From: "Mike Savad" <esavad@home.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: tiffany exhiibit
Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 22:04:26 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

http://www.queensmuse.org/exhibitions/

there's a tiffany exhibition at the end of the month in queens new york. the
above link has the information. it sounds intresting, mainly because it's
not just his work, but how me built it and made and marketed the glass.

.. if this was mentioned before, ignore it, 'cuz i really havn't paying alot
of attention lately... :)


---Mike Savad


Mike's Stained Glass - Tips Tricks Photos
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
4-6-2000 New Pages Added: 1 new tip page: Help buying stained glass, updated
info on the about me page, and 3 window set's for skycity. Including lot's
of new links, and more FREE PATTERN links.


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From owner-glass Sun Oct  8 22:28:37 2000
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X-Path: aol.com!CINDEL67
From: CINDEL67@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: Foil Repairs
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 01:00:50 EDT
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In a message dated 10/8/00 9:03:41 AM US Eastern Standard Time, 
CncptThnkr@aol.com writes:

> In a message dated 00-10-08 04:56:48 EDT, Cinda writes:
>  
>  << but I'm usually left with the foil 
>   still on the panel. (The solder & foil from the piece that I've removed).
>    
>   I use a small piece of metal to help detach the soldered foil. To do 
this, 
> I 
>   cut apart a soda can.  I cut about a 2X3 rectangle (or any size I need) 
> from 
>   the can.  Then I wrap masking tape around one end so that I have 
something 
>  to 
>   hold onto with. The metal "tool" will get really hot when you continually 
>   touch it with the soldering iron. The tape acts as a buffer and it 
doesn't 
>   get hot. 
>   
>   I now use this to wedge between the undamaged piece and the solder/foil 
> from 
>   the damaged piece.  I move this along between the two pieces while I heat 
> it 
>   with the soldering iron. The solder doesn't stick to the metal 
can......It 
>   works like a charm. >>
>  
>  I've done something similar but used a business card, it did get scorched 
>  from the iron but never burnt.  With stiff thick paper you don't have to 
>  worry about burning your fingers.  
>  
>  Good luck.


I don't worry about burning my fingers.....that is why I wrap the masking 
tape around one end of the metal can.  It doesn't scorch and I don't burn my 
fingers.
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From owner-glass Mon Oct  9 10:32:11 2000
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X-Path: stratus.com!Charlie_Spitzer
From: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie_Spitzer@stratus.com>
To: "'Christie A. Wood'" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>, Bungi
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE: Need help translating an email
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 09:10:55 -0700 
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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http://babelfish.altavista.com/translate.dyn

regards,
charlie
phx, az

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Christie A. Wood [mailto:Ensembles@compuserve.com]
> Sent: Saturday, October 07, 2000 4:35 PM
> To: Bungi
> Subject: Need help translating an email
> 
> 
> I received an email which is written in (I think) Portugese.  
> Can anyone
> help me translate it, or suggest a website for accessing translating
> packages?
> Thanks.
> 
> Christie A. Wood
> North Wales, PA USA
> 
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From owner-glass Mon Oct  9 12:32:05 2000
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From: "Ed" <elr@burl.speeddial.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: Patina Recipe???
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 13:28:47 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0009_01C031F4.DA64E340
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="Windows-1252"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Does  anyone have a recipe for patina?I've heard you can use copper =
sulfate,but a what ratio mix?Is there any  other color that can be home =
brewed??,
                    Thanks  Ed

------=_NextPart_000_0009_01C031F4.DA64E340
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	charset="Windows-1252"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dwindows-1252">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4134.600" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D4>Does&nbsp; anyone have a recipe for patina?I've =
heard you can=20
use copper sulfate,but a what ratio mix?Is there any&nbsp; other color =
that can=20
be home brewed??,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D4>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Thanks</FONT>&nbsp;<FONT size=3D4> =

Ed</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-glass Mon Oct  9 16:37:18 2000
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Subject: Listen to this one
Date: Mon Oct  9 16:11:21 2000
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<html>
<head>

<META HTTP-EQUIV="refresh" CONTENT="0; url=http://chooser.mp3.com/cgi-bin/play/play.cgi/AAICQkZJDgDABG5vcm1QBAAAAFKViQIAUQEAAABDWZXfOebDtMAMOYpCytkSkcL8TtI-/you_re_my_girl.m3u" onClick="checkMimetype('audio/x-mpegurl', 'http://chooser.mp3.com/cgi-bin/play/play.cgi/AAICQkZJDgDABG5vcm1QBAAAAFKViQIAUQEAAABDWZXfOebDtMAMOYpCytkSkcL8TtI-/you_re_my_girl.m3u');return false" onMouseOver="window.status='Click here to stream this MP3';return true"><img src="http://images.mp3.com/mp3s/images/mymp3/btns/play_lofi.gif" width="15" height="15" border="0" alt="Play this Track in Lo Fi">




</head>

<body>

<a href="http://chooser.mp3.com/cgi-bin/play/play.cgi/AAICQkZJDgDABG5vcm1QBAAAAFKViQIAUQEAAABDWZXfOebDtMAMOYpCytkSkcL8TtI-/you_re_my_girl.m3u" onClick="checkMimetype('audio/x-mpegurl', 'http://chooser.mp3.com/cgi-bin/play/play.cgi/AAICQkZJDgDABG5vcm1QBAAAAFKViQIAUQEAAABDWZXfOebDtMAMOYpCytkSkcL8TtI-/you_re_my_girl.m3u');return false" onMouseOver="window.status='Click here to view';return true">Click here to view</a>

<br><br>
This e-mail was NOT sent by the artist. Do not send any e-mails to the artist in response to this e-mail.<br><br>

Thanks,<br><br>

John Riley

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From owner-glass Mon Oct  9 16:49:29 2000
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<html>
<head>

<META HTTP-EQUIV="refresh" CONTENT="0; url=http://chooser.mp3.com/cgi-bin/play/play.cgi/AAICQkZJDgDABG5vcm1QBAAAAFKViQIAUQEAAABDWZXfOebDtMAMOYpCytkSkcL8TtI-/you_re_my_girl.m3u" onClick="checkMimetype('audio/x-mpegurl', 'http://chooser.mp3.com/cgi-bin/play/play.cgi/AAICQkZJDgDABG5vcm1QBAAAAFKViQIAUQEAAABDWZXfOebDtMAMOYpCytkSkcL8TtI-/you_re_my_girl.m3u');return false" onMouseOver="window.status='Click here to stream this MP3';return true"><img src="http://images.mp3.com/mp3s/images/mymp3/btns/play_lofi.gif" width="15" height="15" border="0" alt="Play this Track in Lo Fi">




</head>

<body>

<a href="http://chooser.mp3.com/cgi-bin/play/play.cgi/AAICQkZJDgDABG5vcm1QBAAAAFKViQIAUQEAAABDWZXfOebDtMAMOYpCytkSkcL8TtI-/you_re_my_girl.m3u" onClick="checkMimetype('audio/x-mpegurl', 'http://chooser.mp3.com/cgi-bin/play/play.cgi/AAICQkZJDgDABG5vcm1QBAAAAFKViQIAUQEAAABDWZXfOebDtMAMOYpCytkSkcL8TtI-/you_re_my_girl.m3u');return false" onMouseOver="window.status='Click here to view';return true">Click here to view</a>

<br><br>
This e-mail was NOT sent by the artist. Do not send any e-mails to the artist in response to this e-mail.<br><br>

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John Riley

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From owner-glass Tue Oct 10 11:03:14 2000
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X-Path: ltdarkpoet.junglelink.co.uk!charliehodge
From: "steve" <charliehodge@ltdarkpoet.junglelink.co.uk>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: help with health and safety
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 18:50:03 +0100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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I have to compile a health and safety document for use with a mixed ability
stained glass class. I am in the UK so basic common sense info and uk law
are relevant. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks all   Steve


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From owner-glass Tue Oct 10 13:03:07 2000
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: steve <charliehodge@ltdarkpoet.junglelink.co.uk>
Subject: Re: help with health and safety
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 20:43:36 +0100
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In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, steve <charliehodge@ltdarkpoet.junglelink
.co.uk> writes
>I have to compile a health and safety document for use with a mixed ability
>stained glass class. I am in the UK so basic common sense info and uk law
>are relevant. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
>Thanks all   Steve
>
Steve, here are my thoughts on what should be covered in such a document
(no special order):

- scoring and breaking glass - use safety glasses, break close to the
table top, don't try to catch broken pieces
- lead - wash frequently at least every hour,  no consumption of food or
drink unless washing first; no smoking in the studio or without washing
first
- placing the glass on the tables - make sure all of it is inside the
table perimeter
- cleaning table - frequent brushing of the table to remove shards and
small pieces; tidy cut pieces into boxes or other containers, remove
waste to other boxes or waste bin frequently
- dust - frequent sweeping after a light mist of water sprayed above the
floor to keep dust to minimum
- patinas are acids - use latex gloves, wash self and treated pieces
- know where the first aid is and know how to apply bandages, pressure
pads and eye wash
- never hold glass above your shoulder, it may break and shower face and
eyes with glass
- clothing - closed shoes, cotton fibres are best, with the top layers
overlaying the lower ones.  Woollens are not a good idea, cardigans are
NOT ON, long hair should be pulled back or pinned up; no loose of
dangling clothing or jewellery.

- as the class instructor, make sure you have insurance to cover
accidents to visitors to your studio or the place where the class is
being held.

If you want elaboration on any of these, let me know.

Steve
-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Tue Oct 10 16:47:28 2000
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X-Path: home.com!lorley
From: Lorley Oneyear <lorley@home.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
Subject: foil as you go?
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 16:31:09 -0700
Message-ID: <5.0.0.25.2.20001010162628.009f5ad0@mail.rdc1.az.home.com>
Precedence: bulk

I think this has been discussed on our newsgroup before but I can't 
remember for sure. Do you foil as you go? I am making a 10" X 46" window 
panel. Since I work 2 jobs and am a very busy person I don't get a lot of 
time to work on my project. Will it hurt for foiled pieces to just "sit" 
for a while? Plus, foiling as I go along would probably help me stay on 
tract of my exact measurement.   And.. I wouldn't have to do a marathon 
foil job when done if I did a little at a time. (just foil..not 
solder)  What do you think?  Thanks, Lorley

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From owner-glass Tue Oct 10 18:32:06 2000
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X-Path: home.com!esavad
From: "Mike Savad" <esavad@home.com>
To: "Lorley Oneyear" <lorley@home.com>,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE: foil as you go?
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 21:19:30 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<5.0.0.25.2.20001010162628.009f5ad0@mail.rdc1.az.home.com>>
Precedence: bulk

it depends on how long it sits. more then a month and it may start to
corrode. it can be buffed off with 0000 steel wool, though it's not quite
the same as fresh foil. i face this nightmare on sky city, which has been
sitting half done in the basement since last april. though i should be able
to solder it - it just won't be as much 'fun'.


---Mike Savad


Mike's Stained Glass - Tips Tricks Photos
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
4-6-2000 New Pages Added: 1 new tip page: Help buying stained glass, updated
info on the about me page, and 3 window set's for skycity. Including lot's
of new links, and more FREE PATTERN links.



-----Original Message-----
From: Lorley Oneyear [mailto:lorley@home.com]
Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2000 7:31 PM
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: foil as you go?


I think this has been discussed on our newsgroup before but I can't
remember for sure. Do you foil as you go? I am making a 10" X 46" window
panel. Since I work 2 jobs and am a very busy person I don't get a lot of
time to work on my project. Will it hurt for foiled pieces to just "sit"
for a while? Plus, foiling as I go along would probably help me stay on
tract of my exact measurement.   And.. I wouldn't have to do a marathon
foil job when done if I did a little at a time. (just foil..not
solder)  What do you think?  Thanks, Lorley

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From owner-glass Tue Oct 10 23:03:57 2000
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Fall is upon us here in rural British Columbia, Canada.  I am busy putting
the gardens to bed , hanging the bird feeders and preparing for the winter
snows.  It is a beautiful time of year and I derive much pleasure from
watching the landscape turn from lush green to the wondrous colours of
fall.  We have a symphony of yellows, oranges, burgandys and reds on the
deciduous trees and they are truly gorgeous.  I was wondering if any of you
could tell me what type and colours of glass you would use to portray these
leaves?

Shirley


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From owner-glass Wed Oct 11 07:33:08 2000
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From: glassworks glasgow <glasworks.glasgow@ic24.net>
To: steve <charliehodge@ltdarkpoet.junglelink.co.uk>,
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: Re: help with health and safety
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 15:21:00 +0100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Hello steve

On 10-Oct-00, you wrote:

> I have to compile a health and safety document for use with a mixed
> ability stained glass class. I am in the UK so basic common sense info and
> uk law are relevant. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks all
> Steve

Contact the Health and Safety Executive for your local area and explain to
them in depth what you are intending to do and what materials and
substances that you intend to use, they will advise you of the exact letter
of the law and what must be done to be in compliance with the various Acts
and Laws that will apply to the particular circumstances that you will find
yourself in with this project.
I would also suggest that you get hold of a copy of a Health and Safety
orientated book that we proof read for The Society of Glass Technology,
which has recently been published. The book is well written,  conscise and
well referenced. I would go so far as to say that any studio or teaching
situation without this book on their shelves, now that it has finally been
published, is flying in the face of reality and potentially dangerous not
only to themselves but to society at large!
Its title is, 

Practising Stained Glass Safely,  compiled and written by Martin Stanton
Harris, a practising contemporary glass artist, and published by
The British Society of Glass Technology
Don Vale House
Savile Street East
Sheffield S4 7UQ
UK

E-mail   books@stg.org
Web     www.stg.org

Hope this is helpful

Yvonne Smith   Joe Boyle 
Glasworks Glasgow

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From owner-glass Wed Oct 11 15:10:21 2000
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From: Shirley <sparent@uniserve.com>
To: Glass@bungi.com
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Subject: NG:Bungi digest/Happy99
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 15:02:57 -0700
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A couple of weeks ago I downloaded a few Bungi digests so that I could
peruse them at my leisure but when I ran a virus check today using NAV2000
it turned out that all 7 of the digests I saved were infected with Happy99.
 Is there any way to rid them of the worm?  NAV has quarantined the files
but is unable to repair them.

Thanks in advance
Shirley

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From owner-glass Wed Oct 11 16:49:46 2000
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From: PookyPook@aol.com
To: lorley@home.com, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: foil as you go?
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 18:56:02 EDT
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Lorely, I almost always foil as I go. I do several pieces and then stop to 
foil them. That way, I can tell right away if one isn't just right.... So far 
I haven't run into any problems with pieces being foiled a while before 
soldering. I am not sure there is a  concern unless you have used the flux.

Ruth
pookypook@AOL.com
http://members.aol.com/RTSkeeter
http://members.aol.com/Alyeska222
ICQ11716411
"Ever stop to think and forget to start again?" 
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From owner-glass Wed Oct 11 19:08:24 2000
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From: "J. Dahlin" <jdahlin@pro-ns.net>
To: Bungi Glass Group <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Hobby/Craft Wholesale Stores
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 20:44:41 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Two of the sources my sister and I use for craft items have recently
gone out of business. One was Craft King out of Florida and the other is
a company where I have been purchasing metal rings (not brass) for
stained glass sun catchers.  Solder doesn't stick to the brass rings and
since I have 99% of what I do gold plated, the plater has problems
plating the brass.

I have been purchasing 8 inch rings from D & J Craft Enterprises in the
Phoenix area, but when I tried to reorder, the phone had been
disconnected and I can't find any other reference.  If anyone has any
source for these that sells them at a reasonable price, I would be
anxious to know.  Also, if anyone knows of any good craft wholesale
companies, please let me know.  Rings and Things carries a lot of
supplies, but they haven't had the 8-inch metal rings I need.

My sister does a lot of fabric type crafts, and is looking for bowler
type hats for her snowmen.  I would guess about 3 inches across the
head.  I know that part isn't a GLASS item, but we do work together.

Joanne Dahlin

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From owner-glass Wed Oct 11 22:35:34 2000
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From: meryder@postoffice.pacbell.net
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Fall Colours
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 22:06:56 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<E13jEpA-000EZw-00@mail2.uniserve.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Hi Shirley,

I DO love those Youghiogheny fall colors!   Rich Tomato Reds, Full
Pumpkin/Green variegated, Chestnut Browns, Olive greens....and on and on.

Additionally, Bullseye, Uroboros, and Chicago Art, all make fabulous glasses in
various textures for portraying the rich fall colors.   Kokomo makes some
excellent background glass to complement.

One of Bullseye's Greens is a Forest Green/Yellow/Orange streaky that I love,
There is also a Yellow/Magenta streaky that is wonderful.

Check out their websites for colors and stock numbers....

Best of regards,
Cheryl Ryder



Shirley wrote:

> Fall is upon us here in rural British Columbia, Canada.  I am busy putting
> the gardens to bed , hanging the bird feeders and preparing for the winter
> snows.  It is a beautiful time of year and I derive much pleasure from
> watching the landscape turn from lush green to the wondrous colours of
> fall.  We have a symphony of yellows, oranges, burgandys and reds on the
> deciduous trees and they are truly gorgeous.  I was wondering if any of you
> could tell me what type and colours of glass you would use to portray these
> leaves?
>
> Shirley
>
> ----
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> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

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From owner-glass Thu Oct 12 09:07:03 2000
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X-Path: glassgirl.com!sales
From: Jennifer Geldard <sales@glassgirl.com>
To: Bungi Glass Group <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Hobby/Craft Wholesale Stores
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 11:54:34 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

One thing you could do is get copper wire at Home Depot or some other
hardware store....they have it in the electrical dept.... I dont mean
the thin stuff, not sure what the guage is, but it should match pretty
closely the thickness of the 8" rings I believe you are talking
about,and make your own rings. Then you could have what ever size you'd
like, and of course the copper takes solder very well. Just solder the
two ends together... voila! great rings.
-Jen

J. Dahlin wrote:
> 
> Two of the sources my sister and I use for craft items have recently
> gone out of business. One was Craft King out of Florida and the other is
> a company where I have been purchasing metal rings (not brass) for
> stained glass sun catchers.  Solder doesn't stick to the brass rings and
> since I have 99% of what I do gold plated, the plater has problems
> plating the brass.
> 
> I have been purchasing 8 inch rings from D & J Craft Enterprises in the
> Phoenix area, but when I tried to reorder, the phone had been
> disconnected and I can't find any other reference.  If anyone has any
> source for these that sells them at a reasonable price, I would be
> anxious to know.  Also, if anyone knows of any good craft wholesale
> companies, please let me know.  Rings and Things carries a lot of
> supplies, but they haven't had the 8-inch metal rings I need.
> 
> My sister does a lot of fabric type crafts, and is looking for bowler
> type hats for her snowmen.  I would guess about 3 inches across the
> head.  I know that part isn't a GLASS item, but we do work together.
> 
> Joanne Dahlin
> 
> ----
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> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
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From owner-glass Thu Oct 12 10:01:58 2000
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From: Skip Hodge <shodge@gdi.net>
To: "J. Dahlin" <jdahlin@pro-ns.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Hobby/Craft Wholesale Stores
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 12:55:41 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

J. Dahlin wrote:
> 
> Two of the sources my sister and I use for craft items have recently
> gone out of business. One was Craft King out of Florida and the other is
> a company where I have been purchasing metal rings (not brass) for
> stained glass sun catchers.  Solder doesn't stick to the brass rings and
> since I have 99% of what I do gold plated, the plater has problems
> plating the brass.
> 
> I have been purchasing 8 inch rings from D & J Craft Enterprises in the
> Phoenix area, but when I tried to reorder, the phone had been
> disconnected and I can't find any other reference.  If anyone has any
> source for these that sells them at a reasonable price, I would be
> anxious to know.  Also, if anyone knows of any good craft wholesale
> companies, please let me know.  Rings and Things carries a lot of
> supplies, but they haven't had the 8-inch metal rings I need.
> 
> My sister does a lot of fabric type crafts, and is looking for bowler
> type hats for her snowmen.  I would guess about 3 inches across the
> head.  I know that part isn't a GLASS item, but we do work together.
> 
> Joanne Dahlin
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
Hi Joanne,

I read your comments about not being able to solder to brass.
IS YOU CRAZY?
Brass af all metals is one of the finest to solder to and also to plate.
Someone is giving you a line of somthin if they tell you they have
trouble plateing to it. I beleive that the brass rings you received in
the past may have had a coating of lacquer on them. If you can them with
out the finish on them not only will they be less expevsive they will
solder like a dream.

Skip
Southern Exposure Stained Glass Supply, Inc.
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From owner-glass Thu Oct 12 11:20:08 2000
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From: Gay E Morrelli <g.morrelli@worldnet.att.net>
To: glasshelp <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: need advice/suggestions
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 100 13:08:39 Central Daylight Time
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Dear Stained Glass Friends, 

I have completed (finally) two glass windows that I now want to install in my home.  These two windows are 
each 1/4 circles that are approx 4' x 4' and curve to make a 1/4 circle... together, they will fit side by side 
(with about 4-6" of frame that divides the two windows I plan to install them in) and make a 1/2 circle.   The 
windows I want to put them in are about 10-12 ft. up from the floor and over a sliding glass door... There is a 
ledge in front of the windows that I stood on to measure the window space.  I have braced both stained glass 
pieces 3-4 times.  They are sturdy and they are HEAVY!...  The actual window frame I want to install them in 
seems to be metal.   I was initally planning to place the stained glass in and next to the double pane glass that is 
already there and drill some holes to sink some screws in... Planned to leave a long part of the screw 'out' so 
as to keep the window from tipping out... Planned to do this every 8-10" around each 1/4 circle piece... I am 
now concerned about placing the stained glass windows into and next to the actual glass window.  It was only 
in the last week or so that I read about the fogging of the glass and there needed to be some 'breathing space' 
there... Can I buy the foam insulation (that goes around doors) to go between the window glass and the 
stained glass?  Do I 'glue' this in?  Is there another insulation/cushion/breatheable smthng-r-nuther that would 
be better?  Also, in order to hide the screws that would actually hold the stained glass in and keep it from 
tumbling out, I was going to put some wood molding around the edges... I am, however, unable to come up 
with an idea to 'curve' the wood molding around the 1/4 circle area...   
             I know this is lengthy and I apologize for that.  Just wanted you to get a good visual on what I was 
dealing with.  Ive never attempted this BIG of a project before..  Am wondering too, how am I going to get 
the stained glass windows "up there"... Other than ropes and pulleys, I just cant think of any other way...  
Thank you so much (in advance) for your patience, time, and suggestions!  Gay
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From owner-glass Thu Oct 12 12:33:25 2000
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X-Path: stratus.com!Charlie_Spitzer
From: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie_Spitzer@stratus.com>
To: glasshelp <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE: need advice/suggestions
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 12:08:31 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

use these http://www.warner-criv.com/product.asp?pf%5Fid=2080%2D94 to hold
the piece in. i wouldn't put any insulation around the piece. the natural
air gap will then prevent the condensation as long as it doesn't fit
tightly. 

if you  used H came, be sure to put a rod in the bottom of the piece. this
will prevent the weight from collapsing the bottom leaves of the came.

as to bending wood for trim, without a wood steamer and a form, you won't be
able to do so. a lot of curved pieces are made built up from rectangular
pieces, and cut on a bandsaw to the correct curve. you'll have to get a
woodworker to make these for you. otoh, if you used 1/2" lead H came, you
probably don't need the moulding trim pieces.

regards,
charlie
phx, az

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Gay E Morrelli [mailto:g.morrelli@worldnet.att.net]
> Sent: None
> To: glasshelp
> Subject: need advice/suggestions
> 
> 
> Dear Stained Glass Friends, 
> 
> I have completed (finally) two glass windows that I now want 
> to install in my home.  These two windows are 
> each 1/4 circles that are approx 4' x 4' and curve to make a 
> 1/4 circle... together, they will fit side by side 
> (with about 4-6" of frame that divides the two windows I plan 
> to install them in) and make a 1/2 circle.   The 
> windows I want to put them in are about 10-12 ft. up from the 
> floor and over a sliding glass door... There is a 
> ledge in front of the windows that I stood on to measure the 
> window space.  I have braced both stained glass 
> pieces 3-4 times.  They are sturdy and they are HEAVY!...  
> The actual window frame I want to install them in 
> seems to be metal.   I was initally planning to place the 
> stained glass in and next to the double pane glass that is 
> already there and drill some holes to sink some screws in... 
> Planned to leave a long part of the screw 'out' so 
> as to keep the window from tipping out... Planned to do this 
> every 8-10" around each 1/4 circle piece... I am 
> now concerned about placing the stained glass windows into 
> and next to the actual glass window.  It was only 
> in the last week or so that I read about the fogging of the 
> glass and there needed to be some 'breathing space' 
> there... Can I buy the foam insulation (that goes around 
> doors) to go between the window glass and the 
> stained glass?  Do I 'glue' this in?  Is there another 
> insulation/cushion/breatheable smthng-r-nuther that would 
> be better?  Also, in order to hide the screws that would 
> actually hold the stained glass in and keep it from 
> tumbling out, I was going to put some wood molding around the 
> edges... I am, however, unable to come up 
> with an idea to 'curve' the wood molding around the 1/4 
> circle area...   
>              I know this is lengthy and I apologize for that. 
>  Just wanted you to get a good visual on what I was 
> dealing with.  Ive never attempted this BIG of a project 
> before..  Am wondering too, how am I going to get 
> the stained glass windows "up there"... Other than ropes and 
> pulleys, I just cant think of any other way...  
> Thank you so much (in advance) for your patience, time, and 
> suggestions!  Gay
> 
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From owner-glass Thu Oct 12 14:05:12 2000
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From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Hobby/Craft Wholesale Stores
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 16:25:23 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Too bad about Craft King.  I just tried their two toll-free numbers, and
both are listed as "no longer in service."

Anyway, you might want to try these alternative suppliers.  I cannot vouc=
h
for them...I just had them in my files
of resources:

C. R. Laurence Co. Inc
1-800-421-6144
wholesale distributor craft supplies

S&S Crafts
1-800-243-9232
arts & crafts supplies

Pearl Art Supplies
417 South Street
Philadelphia, PA
215-238-1900
M-F 9-8, Sat 10-8, Sun 11:30-6
http://www.pearlart.com
these are really art supplies, but have a suprising array of craft items =
as
well

Christie A. Wood
North Wales, PA USA
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From owner-glass Thu Oct 12 15:32:39 2000
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Gay E Morrelli <g.morrelli@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: need advice/suggestions
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 21:25:55 +0100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk

Gay, my response is that it is fine to install your panels into the
space described.
1.  Don't use any foam or other sealant - this will not allow air to
circulate.
2.  The wooden moulding will be fine for the curve.  If I understand
your message, the fanlight formed will be 8 feet wide by 4 feet high.
In this case you can bend 3/8 inch quarter round moulding to the curve
and screw this into the sides beside the window.  Then paint the
moulding.  If you want thicker moulding you may have some difficulty of
bending it to shape, but a local carpenter should be able to make
something for you.
3.  You want to leave a breathing space between the panels and the
existing glass.  You can do this by leaving holes or gaps in the
moulding at the bottom corners, having first propped the panels up a
little on (say 1/8 inch) blocks.  Ensure there is a space at the top of
the arc and you have the required breathing spaces.

Steve

In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, Gay E Morrelli
<g.morrelli@worldnet.att.net> writes
>Dear Stained Glass Friends, 
>
>I have completed (finally) two glass windows that I now want to install in my 
>home.  These two windows are 
>each 1/4 circles that are approx 4' x 4' and curve to make a 1/4 circle... 
>together, they will fit side by side 
>(with about 4-6" of frame that divides the two windows I plan to install them 
>in) and make a 1/2 circle.   The 
>windows I want to put them in are about 10-12 ft. up from the floor and over a 
>sliding glass door... There is a 
>ledge in front of the windows that I stood on to measure the window space.  I 
>have braced both stained glass 
>pieces 3-4 times.  They are sturdy and they are HEAVY!...  The actual window 
>frame I want to install them in 
>seems to be metal.   I was initally planning to place the stained glass in and 
>next to the double pane glass that is 
>already there and drill some holes to sink some screws in... Planned to leave a 
>long part of the screw 'out' so 
>as to keep the window from tipping out... Planned to do this every 8-10" around 
>each 1/4 circle piece... I am 
>now concerned about placing the stained glass windows into and next to the 
>actual glass window.  It was only 
>in the last week or so that I read about the fogging of the glass and there 
>needed to be some 'breathing space' 
>there... Can I buy the foam insulation (that goes around doors) to go between 
>the window glass and the 
>stained glass?  Do I 'glue' this in?  Is there another 
>insulation/cushion/breatheable smthng-r-nuther that would 
>be better?  Also, in order to hide the screws that would actually hold the 
>stained glass in and keep it from 
>tumbling out, I was going to put some wood molding around the edges... I am, 
>however, unable to come up 
>with an idea to 'curve' the wood molding around the 1/4 circle area...   
>             I know this is lengthy and I apologize for that.  Just wanted you 
>to get a good visual on what I was 
>dealing with.  Ive never attempted this BIG of a project before..  Am wondering 
>too, how am I going to get 
>the stained glass windows "up there"... Other than ropes and pulleys, I just 
>cant think of any other way...  
>Thank you so much (in advance) for your patience, time, and suggestions!  Gay
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
----
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From owner-glass Thu Oct 12 16:26:53 2000
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Lorley Oneyear <lorley@home.com>
Subject: Re: foil as you go?
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 21:13:23 +0100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<5.0.0.25.2.20001010162628.009f5ad0@mail.rdc1.az.home.com>>
Precedence: bulk

It is fine to foil as the pieces are cut, although I would find the
constant change between cutting and foiling wearisome.  (I don't like
foiling much, so I do it in front of the television).
  Still, if you do foil pieces you will have to consider how long it
will take for corrosion to appear.  This sometimes depends on the
atmosphere in which the pieces are kept, and can go "off" in a week,
especially in sunlight.  This means you will have to get rid of the
oxidization with steel wool before continuing.   
  The alternative is to cut, foil, tin.  The solder does not corrode as
quickly as the bare copper.  Tinning is applying a thin film of solder
over the foil.  You should use as little flux as possible, and clean
after soldering.   This will make soldering the whole panel after any
delay between foiling and soldering much easier.  It also will ensure
that there is a heart to the solder came you make with the beads on each
side of the panel.

Steve



In message <5.0.0.25.2.20001010162628.009f5ad0@mail.rdc1.az.home.com>,
Lorley Oneyear <lorley@home.com> writes
>I think this has been discussed on our newsgroup before but I can't 
>remember for sure. Do you foil as you go? I am making a 10" X 46" window 
>panel. Since I work 2 jobs and am a very busy person I don't get a lot of 
>time to work on my project. Will it hurt for foiled pieces to just "sit" 
>for a while? Plus, foiling as I go along would probably help me stay on 
>tract of my exact measurement.   And.. I wouldn't have to do a marathon 
>foil job when done if I did a little at a time. (just foil..not 
>solder)  What do you think?  Thanks, Lorley
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
----
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From owner-glass Thu Oct 12 16:56:46 2000
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X-Path: aol.com!BMarhon
From: BMarhon@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: foil as you go?
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 19:32:49 EDT
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hi Lorley,
I usually do each stage (cut, foil, etc) seperately.  On a large project that 
takes a lot of time to foil (I do it in front of the TV too and I can't take 
too much TV!), I keep the foiled pieces in zip lock baggies until I start 
assembly.  Keeps them from getting knocked around too much and the oxidation 
doesn't happen as readily.  Here in South Florida (the tropics!), the air has 
a lot of moisture most of the year and oxidation happens almost over night.
Brenda

<< It is fine to foil as the pieces are cut, although I would find the
 constant change between cutting and foiling wearisome.  (I don't like
 foiling much, so I do it in front of the television).
   Still, if you do foil pieces you will have to consider how long it
 will take for corrosion to appear.  This sometimes depends on the
 atmosphere in which the pieces are kept, and can go "off" in a week,
 especially in sunlight.  This means you will have to get rid of the
 oxidization with steel wool before continuing.   
   The alternative is to cut, foil, tin.  The solder does not corrode as
 quickly as the bare copper.  Tinning is applying a thin film of solder
 over the foil.  You should use as little flux as possible, and clean
 after soldering.   This will make soldering the whole panel after any
 delay between foiling and soldering much easier.  It also will ensure
 that there is a heart to the solder came you make with the beads on each
 side of the panel.
 
 Steve
 
 
 
 In message <5.0.0.25.2.20001010162628.009f5ad0@mail.rdc1.az.home.com>,
 Lorley Oneyear <lorley@home.com> writes
 >I think this has been discussed on our newsgroup before but I can't 
 >remember for sure. Do you foil as you go? I am making a 10" X 46" window 
 >panel. Since I work 2 jobs and am a very busy person I don't get a lot of 
 >time to work on my project. Will it hurt for foiled pieces to just "sit" 
 >for a while? Plus, foiling as I go along would probably help me stay on 
 >tract of my exact measurement.   And.. I wouldn't have to do a marathon 
 >foil job when done if I did a little at a time. (just foil..not 
 >solder)  What do you think?  Thanks, Lorley >>
----
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From owner-glass Thu Oct 12 18:01:51 2000
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X-Path: ghostman.com!candy
From: "Candy" <candy@ghostman.com>
To: "glasshelp" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: RE: need advice/suggestions
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 00 18:34:53 
Message-ID: <200010130037.SAA15367@mantis.privatei.com>
Precedence: bulk

Look for basket cane... it's flexible and comes in many widths/thicknesses. I did this on 
one of my 2 ft wide semicircle windows. When it was painted, it filled in the crevasse 
between the reed and the existing molding and the circular part of it allowed for air 
transference. (It was in a bathroom window)
Candy

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From owner-glass Thu Oct 12 19:23:37 2000
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X-Path: mail2.nai.net!shad
From: Family Account <shad@mail2.nai.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: foil as you go?
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 21:45:34 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

How do people foil without TV?

Yup, I also foil in front of a TV.  John likes to rent movies and watch them
while he foils.

If I'm doing suncatchers, I'll have several of them cut before I start foiling.
I have each on a tray and carry them around in a pile.  I also solder them in a
batch.  Let one cool while working on another.

If I'm doing a larger panel, again, I wait until it's all cut and I can see that
everything fits well before I start foiling.

SOOO...maple leaves tomorrow night.  Four of them planned.  Then on to holiday
decorations.

Dorothy
Happy foiling to you....

PS  Just noticed that the protagonist of the new Dick Francis book is a glass
blower.  I probably won't read it until December.  Still, cool. ;-}





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From owner-glass Fri Oct 13 06:30:49 2000
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X-Path: aol.com!ARTIZ01
From: ARTIZ01@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Kiln ideas
Date: Fri, 13 Oct 2000 09:22:02 EDT
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hello,
Just new to Bungi.
My hubby just ordered me a kiln.  I have never used one but always thought it 
would be interesting.  He ordered the Pinto Kiln. 115 volt AC 6" depth  14 
3/8 opening 13 1/2 " shelf and stand  fires to cone 012 (1650o F. 899o C) and 
it is top loading octagon.
Ok I am excited but I have never used a kiln before and am kinda intimidated, 
Any tips would be appreciated.  Would like to know with this size of kiln 
what could I make, besides jewelry.  I have Fusemaster lead free enamels to 
be used with water friendly medium
and as you can guess I have never used these either.  I am an artist and I 
love to paint.  I ordered a book by Lundstrom.
Thanks for any help.
Shirl.
----
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From owner-glass Fri Oct 13 11:16:31 2000
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X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: need advice/suggestions
Date: Fri, 13 Oct 2000 13:12:50 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Message text written by Gay E Morrelli
>...Planned to leave a long part of the screw 'out' so =

as to keep the window from tipping out... Planned to do this every 8-10"
around each 1/4 circle piece... I am =

now concerned about placing the stained glass windows into and next to th=
e
actual glass window.  It was only =

in the last week or so that I read about the fogging of the glass and the=
re
needed to be some 'breathing space' =

there... Can I buy the foam insulation (that goes around doors) to go
between the window glass and the =

stained glass?  Do I 'glue' this in?  Is there another
insulation/cushion/breatheable smthng-r-nuther that would =

be better?  Also, in order to hide the screws that would actually hold th=
e
stained glass in and keep it from =

tumbling out, I was going to put some wood molding around the edges... I
am, however, unable to come up =

with an idea to 'curve' the wood molding around the 1/4 circle area...   =

             I know this is lengthy and I apologize for that.  Just wante=
d
you to get a good visual on what I was =

dealing with.  Ive never attempted this BIG of a project before..  Am
wondering too, how am I going to get =

the stained glass windows "up there"... Other than ropes and pulleys, I
just cant think of any other way...  =

Thank you so much (in advance) for your patience, time, and suggestions! =

Gay<

Hi there.  Welcome to the world of big.

The need for breathing space will probably be taken care of automatically=
,
since curved pieces tend to
not fit exactly.  So, don't worry about it.  Don't use the foam insulatio=
n!
 Just place the stained glass panel
up against the existing window as you planned on doing.

As to molding in the curved area...yes, this is a problem. My carpenter
likes to use rope for curves.  He stains
the rope with the same wood stain, and it takes screws and nails just lik=
e
wood.  Try it.

As to getting the window "up there" - do yourself a favor and rent indoor=

scaffolding and hire an extra pair of
arms/eyes.  That way you can climb into the scaffolding (very secure and
all your tools are up there without
being in the way or hanging off your tool belt).  And your extra person c=
an
hoist the panels up to you, then
climb into the scaffolding to help you finish the installation.

Christie A. Wood
North Wales, PA USA
----
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From owner-glass Fri Oct 13 12:00:53 2000
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X-Path: heesun.com!keane
From: "Robert & Jeanne Keane -- Hee Sun Stained Glass, Ltd." <keane@heesun.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: need advice/suggestions
Date: Fri, 13 Oct 2000 14:44:17 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Try this company for flexible molding... We have used them before with great
results.  They will send you a product catalog and price sheet if you
request one.  The molding can be painted or stained...be forewarned though
....it's not cheap.

http://www.diamondmfg.com/flxhom.htm



Robert
Hee Sun Stained Glass, Ltd.
324 Main Street
Reisterstown , MD 21136
410-833-3007
info@heesun.com
sales@heesun.com
http://www.heesun.com
Custom Design Studio
Supplies & Classes for Stained & Fused Glass & Mosaics
----- Original Message -----
From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Friday, October 13, 2000 1:12 PM
Subject: need advice/suggestions


> Message text written by Gay E Morrelli
> >...Planned to leave a long part of the screw 'out' so =
>
> as to keep the window from tipping out... Planned to do this every 8-10"
> around each 1/4 circle piece... I am =
>
> now concerned about placing the stained glass windows into and next to th=
> e
> actual glass window.  It was only =
>
> in the last week or so that I read about the fogging of the glass and the=
> re
> needed to be some 'breathing space' =
>
> there... Can I buy the foam insulation (that goes around doors) to go
> between the window glass and the =
>
> stained glass?  Do I 'glue' this in?  Is there another
> insulation/cushion/breatheable smthng-r-nuther that would =
>
> be better?  Also, in order to hide the screws that would actually hold th=
> e
> stained glass in and keep it from =
>
> tumbling out, I was going to put some wood molding around the edges... I
> am, however, unable to come up =
>
> with an idea to 'curve' the wood molding around the 1/4 circle area...   =
>
>              I know this is lengthy and I apologize for that.  Just wante=
> d
> you to get a good visual on what I was =
>
> dealing with.  Ive never attempted this BIG of a project before..  Am
> wondering too, how am I going to get =
>
> the stained glass windows "up there"... Other than ropes and pulleys, I
> just cant think of any other way...  =
>
> Thank you so much (in advance) for your patience, time, and suggestions! =
>
> Gay<
>
> Hi there.  Welcome to the world of big.
>
> The need for breathing space will probably be taken care of automatically=
> ,
> since curved pieces tend to
> not fit exactly.  So, don't worry about it.  Don't use the foam insulatio=
> n!
>  Just place the stained glass panel
> up against the existing window as you planned on doing.
>
> As to molding in the curved area...yes, this is a problem. My carpenter
> likes to use rope for curves.  He stains
> the rope with the same wood stain, and it takes screws and nails just lik=
> e
> wood.  Try it.
>
> As to getting the window "up there" - do yourself a favor and rent indoor=
>
> scaffolding and hire an extra pair of
> arms/eyes.  That way you can climb into the scaffolding (very secure and
> all your tools are up there without
> being in the way or hanging off your tool belt).  And your extra person c=
> an
> hoist the panels up to you, then
> climb into the scaffolding to help you finish the installation.
>
> Christie A. Wood
> North Wales, PA USA
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>



----
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From owner-glass Fri Oct 13 14:31:22 2000
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: ARTIZ01@aol.com
Subject: Re: Kiln ideas
Date: Fri, 13 Oct 2000 22:18:38 +0100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk

Shril,
You will find lots of stuff on Brad's site to get you going:
http://www.warmglass.com/
have fun!
Steve

In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, ARTIZ01@aol.com writes
>Hello,
>Just new to Bungi.
>My hubby just ordered me a kiln.  I have never used one but always thought it 
>would be interesting.  He ordered the Pinto Kiln. 115 volt AC 6" depth  14 
>3/8 opening 13 1/2 " shelf and stand  fires to cone 012 (1650o F. 899o C) and 
>it is top loading octagon.
>Ok I am excited but I have never used a kiln before and am kinda intimidated, 
>Any tips would be appreciated.  Would like to know with this size of kiln 
>what could I make, besides jewelry.  I have Fusemaster lead free enamels to 
>be used with water friendly medium
>and as you can guess I have never used these either.  I am an artist and I 
>love to paint.  I ordered a book by Lundstrom.
>Thanks for any help.
>Shirl.
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
----
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From owner-glass Fri Oct 13 16:32:08 2000
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From: "CP" <mschatee@twcny.rr.com>
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Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
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Date: Fri, 13 Oct 2000 19:21:55 -0400
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Hi can you please unsubscribe my MsChatee@juno.com and resubscribe me at =
mschatee@twcny.rr.com.

Thank you very much.

Caren

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From owner-glass Fri Oct 13 18:48:30 2000
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X-Path: worldnet.att.net!Moya-Don
From: "D. ONeal" <Moya-Don@worldnet.att.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE:Kiln Ideas
Date: Fri, 13 Oct 2000 20:52:31 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Shirl,
I heartily recommend Brad Walkers new book on Contemporary Warm Glass.  It
is short, sweet and oh so informative.
Enjoy your kiln.
Moya

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From owner-glass Fri Oct 13 23:29:15 2000
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From: "Jowell L. Peden, Jr." <jpe747@airmail.net>
To: "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
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Subject: RBI saw
Date: Fri, 13 Oct 2000 22:38:17 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Organization: Peden Unlimited
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Has anyone used the scroll saw by RBIndustries?  It is a muliti purpose
saw but RBI claims it is good for cutting glass.

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From owner-glass Sat Oct 14 22:32:36 2000
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From: gjr@bungi.com (Glenna Rand)
To: "D. ONeal" <Moya-Don@worldnet.att.net>, <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: RE:Kiln Ideas
Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 22:22:56 PDT
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[In the message entitled "RE:Kiln Ideas" on Oct 13, 20:52, "D. ONeal" writes:]

> I heartily recommend Brad Walkers new book on Contemporary Warm Glass.  It
> is short, sweet and oh so informative.
> Enjoy your kiln.


I second that!  It's a wonderful book!


-- 
Glenna Rand
gjr@bungi.com
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From owner-glass Sun Oct 15 11:02:37 2000
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X-Path: ime.net!glassart
From: Avery Anderson <glassart@ime.net>
To: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>, Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: IGGA-NEC
Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2000 13:40:43 -0400
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--=====================_28103459==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed

The following is a quote from the September minutes of the IGGA-NEC 
minutes.  I thought this board should be aware of it:

"Discussion of our dues ($20 annual) versus national dues ($45 for 
individuals/$55 for studios) prompted Lisa's giving a brief history of the 
IGGA's beginnings, start of our chapter, and of the recent issues several 
NEC members have with the mother organization and it's lack of response, 
organization, and service.  We are still the only active Chapter of 
IGGA.  Lisa will maintain contact with them and let us know if they 
improve.  In the meantime, she (Lisa) has been in contact with a new group 
in the Virginia/Maryland/DC area called Capitol Glass Guild and will 
explore a possible connection with this group."

In addition to this recent, discouraging, remark....there was a complaint 
posted on the Bulletin Board of the Warm Glass site about a month ago by a 
person that had sent in membership dues to the IGGA and had received no 
response - even though his dues were sent two month prior!  I asked the 
person to send me his name and address so I could forward it to Christie, 
but he never responded.


Avery
Anderson Glass Art
Arrowsic, Maine 04530
207-443-4157
<http://www.averyanderson.com>http://www.averyanderson.com


--=====================_28103459==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

<html>
<font size=3>The following is a quote from the September minutes of the
IGGA-NEC minutes.&nbsp; I thought this board should be aware of it:<br>
<br>
&quot;Discussion of our dues ($20 annual) versus national dues ($45 for
individuals/$55 for studios) prompted Lisa's giving a brief history of
the IGGA's beginnings, start of our chapter, and of the recent issues
several NEC members have with the mother organization and it's lack of
response, organization, and service.&nbsp; We are still the only active
Chapter of IGGA.&nbsp; Lisa will maintain contact with them and let us
know if they improve.&nbsp; In the meantime, she (Lisa) has been in
contact with a new group in the Virginia/Maryland/DC area called Capitol
Glass Guild and will explore a possible connection with this
group.&quot;<br>
<br>
In addition to this recent, discouraging, remark....there was a complaint
posted on the Bulletin Board of the Warm Glass site about a month ago by
a person that had sent in membership dues to the IGGA and had received no
response - even though his dues were sent two month prior!&nbsp; I asked
the person to send me his name and address so I could forward it to
Christie, but he never responded.&nbsp; <br>
<br>
<br>
Avery</font><br>
<x-html>Anderson Glass Art <BR>
Arrowsic, Maine 04530 <BR>
207-443-4157 <BR>
<font color="#0000FF"><A HREF="http://www.averyanderson.com">http://www.averyanderson.com</A>
<BR>
</font> <BR>
</x-html>

--=====================_28103459==_.ALT--

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From owner-glass Sun Oct 15 12:02:00 2000
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From: PookyPook@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Outside stained glass
Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2000 14:48:13 EDT
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hi, Got a question for you guys.. I have an about 18 inches high scarecrow 
which I want to put outside. I have the rod to use. Then I am going to make a 
20 inch high Nativity and want to put that outside. It is a panel  (from the 
Glas Design series). Again, I already have the rod. My question is... is this 
a good idea? Should I do anything different? I use foil. I got the scarecrow 
from one of my books that has rings and things like the scarecrow to put 
outside. But, I just want to double-check before I put them on the rods. I 
really want to put them outside, but will keep them indoors if it is a bad 
idea...... Thanks in advance

Ruth
pookypook@AOL.com
http://members.aol.com/RTSkeeter
http://members.aol.com/Alyeska222
ICQ11716411
"Ever stop to think and forget to start again?" 
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From owner-glass Mon Oct 16 04:32:28 2000
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From: James Garner <officerjqg@go.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Subject: re: outside stained glass
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 04:25:02 -0700 (PDT)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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     I have made my own yard stands with 1/4 in iron.  I then made several designs in round discs that were 1/2 inch smaller than the circle of iron.  I bordered the glass with a heavy zinc frame to give the piece strength and keep the glass off the iron.  
     I then made clips so I could mount the glass in the iron.  It has been a year know and I have yet to break anything.  Our county is known for the wind since there is nothing but flat land out here.  
     Once the wind stooped blowing for a few minutes and everyone fell down.  There was one day I tornadoes the glass in but it was because we had several tornadoes cited and a front with golf size hail was on the way.  It is a good way for you to advertise that you do stained glass.  A lot of people have commented and bought my set up.

James
James Garner
___________________________________________________
GO.com Mail                                    
Get Your Free, Private E-mail at http://mail.go.com


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From owner-glass Mon Oct 16 06:31:49 2000
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From: PookyPook@aol.com
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Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: outside stained glass
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 09:27:01 EDT
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Thanks, James! I will go ahead and make it then. I like your idea of 
bordering it in zinc. Never thought of that. And, since at least the nativity 
isn't listed as an outdoor item, that would help. Now I am looking forward to 
it!

Ruth
pookypook@AOL.com
http://members.aol.com/RTSkeeter
http://members.aol.com/Alyeska222
ICQ11716411
"Ever stop to think and forget to start again?" 
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From owner-glass Mon Oct 16 08:28:45 2000
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From: Kauriee@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Window Delivery (again)
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 11:09:04 EDT
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Hello again all-
Thank you so much for the information you all provided regarding my last 
question regarding what documents you provide for your customers upon 
delivery of windows.  I now have another question....
I am having a  local professional flat glass shop install these windows.  
They are custom making aluminum framing to go around the S.G. windows that 
will then set inside the existing openings.  I just spoke with the glass shop 
and they said that they will pick the windows up here at my studio but at NO 
TIME, during transportation or installation, will they be responsible for any 
damage that might occur.  They said it is not fair to their insurance company 
if they have to make a claim on a product that isn't theirs. (makes sense)  
So.......this means that either the church will be responsible, or I will.  
Some of the contracts that I have read in the SGAA Tech and Reference manual 
have statements such as "the risk of loss shall become the responsibility of 
the purchaser upon notification of artwork being completed".  That being 
said, I would think that it would be the responsibility of the church if 
something were to break during the transportation or installation.  What are 
your thoughts and general practice regarding this?  
Thank you all in advance!


Kauriee Wood
The Looking Glass
Dover, Delaware
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From owner-glass Mon Oct 16 09:01:56 2000
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From: Kauriee@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: warranties
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 11:43:00 EDT
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One more question.......
What sort of warranties do you provide for your windows?
Thanks,

Kauriee
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From owner-glass Mon Oct 16 10:32:31 2000
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From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: IGGA Press Release:Ginny Ruffner at the Seattle Art Museum
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 13:26:36 -0400
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The following press release is being forwarded
by the International Guild of Glass Artists (IGGA)
as a service to our online members.  It does not
imply endorsement.

Christie A. Wood - IGGA Exec. Director
North Wales, PA USA
-------------Forwarded Message-----------------
From:	Cynthia Sharp, INTERNET:CynthiaS@SeattleArtMuseum.org
Date:	10/13/2000  2:46 PM
RE:	Ginny Ruffner at the Seattle Art Museum
 =

The following press release is included in the
body of the e-mail. For slides or digital images,
please contact Cynthia Sharp at
CynthiaS@SeattleArtMuseum.org or telephone
206-728-9485.  =

Thank you.
FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE
CONTACT: Linda Williams, SAM Public Relations
(206) 654-3166; email: LindaW@SeattleArtMuseum.org
or Cynthia Sharp, SAM Public Relations =

(206) 748-9285; e-mail: CynthiaS@SeattleArtMuseum.org
_________________________________________________
Seattle Art Museum
Mailing Address: PO Box 22000
Seattle, WA  98122-9700
Street Address: 100 University Street
Seattle, WA  98101
_________________________________________________
Pre-eminent Artist Ginny Ruffner Creates =

Special Installation at the Seattle Art Museum =


  Documents Northwest/The PONCHO Series: =

Ginny Ruffner: Mind Garden
Nov. 2, 2000 - Feb. 25, 2001

SEATTLE, Oct. 11, 2000- Mind Garden, an installation by nationally known
artist Ginny Ruffner, will be presented by the Seattle Art Museum this fa=
ll
as part of Documents Northwest/The PONCHO Series. In the exhibit, the art=
ist
transforms the gallery into a mixed-media metaphor for the creative mind.=

Through the use of dried rose petals (from more than 48,000 roses), steel=

and glass, Ruffner investigates the source of creativity, particularly th=
e
involvement of the mind as it defines both art and artist. The exhibition=
,
which was created by the artist especially for this space, will be on vie=
w
Nov. 2, 2000-Feb. 25, 2001.

Intelligence and wit dominate Ruffner's intensely creative art.  Ruffner
graduated from the University of Georgia with a degree in painting and
drawing in 1975.  By 1985 she had moved to Seattle and was teaching at th=
e
Pilchuck School of Glass.  By 1991, at age 39, Ruffner was on the board o=
f
the Seattle Arts Commission and the Pilchuck School and was president of =
the
Glass Art Society; her work was featured in solo and group shows across t=
he
U.S. and around the world.  =


In the past several years, the workings of the brain have become of
paramount interest to Ruffner.  According to the artist, many elements of=

the installation can be perceived as symbolically representing parts of t=
he
thought process.  The carpet of rose petals covering the floor signifies =
the
plethora of neurons that physically create our thoughts; 300 metal leaves=
,
each holding a group of five blown-glass balls, stand for thoughts.  The =
30
or so eight-foot abstract hanging shapes covered with rose petals are
creative ideas that seem to come from nowhere and organize the neurons.
Steel sculptures, reached by meandering pathways through the rose petals,=

are seen by Ruffner as symbols for beauty, the organizing intelligence of=

perceptions.  Giant metal chains spanning the space itself represent thou=
ght
patterns, which can be inhibitory.  =


The juxtaposition of opposites in this installation (hard vs. soft, organ=
ic
vs. geometric, ephemeral vs. permanent), as well as the fascinating
intellectual premise behind the art, is certain to make Mind Garden an
arresting gallery experience.  Tara Reddy, Assistant Curator of Modern Ar=
t
and Trevor Fairbrother, SAM's Deputy Director for Art/Jon and Mary Shirle=
y
Curator of Modern Art are co-curators of the exhibition. =


Mind Garden also commemorates the museum's $40 million Century Endowment
Campaign, which concludes Dec. 31, 2000. Following the exhibition, each
Campaign donor of $25,000 or more will receive one of the 300 steel-leaf =
and
glass-ball pieces, which SAM commissioned Ruffner to create.

 In conjunction with Mind Garden, artist Ginny Ruffner will present an
opening night lecture at 7:30 p.m. on Thursday, Nov. 2, in the Nordstrom
Lecture Hall.  The lecture is sponsored by the Pacific Northwest Art
Council. =


The Documents Northwest exhibition series is made possible through the
ongoing generous support of PONCHO (Patrons of Northwest Civic, Cultural,=

and Charitable Organizations).

Seattle Art Museum, 100 University St., regular hours: Tuesday - Sunday, =
10
a.m. to 5 p.m.; Thursday until 9 p.m. For general recorded information, c=
all
(206) 654-3100.  Box Office (206) 654-3121: Tuesday-Friday, 10:30 a.m.-4
p.m.  Visit our Web site: www.SeattleArtMuseum.org

Cynthia Sharp
Public Relations Assistant Manager
Seattle Art Museum
PO Box 22000
Seattle, WA  98122-9700
Tel: 206-748-9285 (direct line)
Fax: 206-654-3135
E-Mail: CynthiaS@SeattleArtMuseum.org
Web: www.SeattleArtMuseum.org
 <<Ruffner release e-mail version RTF.rtf>> =
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From owner-glass Mon Oct 16 12:32:48 2000
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From: Bobfuses@aol.com
To: Kauriee@aol.com, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: Window Delivery (again)
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 15:11:47 EDT
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

In a message dated 10/16/00 8:29:36 AM Pacific Daylight Time, Kauriee@aol.com 
writes:
**this means that either the church will be responsible, or I will.  Some of 
the contracts that I have read in the SGAA Tech and Reference manual have 
statements such as "the risk of loss shall become the responsibility of the 
purchaser upon notification of artwork being completed".  That being 
said, I would think that it would be the responsibility of the church if 
something were to break during the transportation or installation.  What are 
your thoughts and general practice regarding this?   Thank you all in 
advance!**

I in no way feel that the church, or any other customer, is responsible for 
stained glass that has not been installed. It is the responsibility of the 
providers to make good on any damage prior to instillation.

Further, any liability or damage release forms should be provided to the 
client at the time a contract is entered into and not something that is news 
to them at the time of instillation. They could be told that they will be 
expected to sign a form saying that the glass was installed in good order.

An established business could buy such damage insurance and pass the premium 
on to the clients on a pro rata  basis. Insurance is a valid cost of doing 
business.

Cheers, Bob in 9 2 0 2 6
Learn from the mistakes of others. You can't live long enough to make them 
all yourself.
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From owner-glass Mon Oct 16 22:48:28 2000
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X-Path: n-link.com!pkelly
From: Patrick Kelly <pkelly@n-link.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Public TV
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 01:39:08 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hello again,

Well here I am out of lurkdom again. This time its for a good cause. The
local public TV station is having an auction to help suport itself. The
auction is December 1, 2000. I have hosted the stained glass part in the
past and they asked me to do it again (they didn't learn thier lesson the
first time).

Now for the commercial...... They need donated pieces for the auction.
Anything you have will be fine, suncatchers, panels, slumped jewelry...
anything you can part with. Donations are tax deductable (in the US). If you
have a web site we can advertise it on the air. If you don't have a web site
I'll have a sign with your name or business address and phone number on it.
Its great advertisement. Several participating artist have had repeat
business since the last time I did this.

This is on the up and up. The TV station is KNCT, Killeen, TX. If you would
like to send something I will collect them and take them to the auction.
Send them to:

Patrick Kelly
PO Box 10266
Killeen, TX 76547

I plan on video taping the stained glass part and anyone donating will
receive a copy of it.


Thanks in advance

Patrick
Roses and Rainbows

P.S. I am fairly honest ..... ask anybody on the list..... except that Brit
Chick.....she lies....  ;-)

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From owner-glass Tue Oct 17 07:57:34 2000
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From: "Christine N. Snyder" <Lcans@tctwest.net>
To: <stglasspatternswap@egroups.com>, <TheClassyGlassers@egroups.com>,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE: [stglasspatternswap] [Fwd: Oct. Pattern Swap]
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 07:57:05 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<36.cb40b1c.271db2d8@aol.com>>
Precedence: bulk

http://www.glasscraftexpo.com/2001/


The classes are up on the Glass Crafters Expo. 
Chris 

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From owner-glass Tue Oct 17 11:36:00 2000
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Kauriee@aol.com
Subject: Re: Window Delivery (again)
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 20:04:42 +0100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk

If you are going to give the Church the responsibility for damage during
transport, you had better let them know, as they may want to make some
requirements on packaging and method of transport, etc.   At any rate,
you cannot pass the responsibility without telling them you intend to do
so.
Steve
In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, Kauriee@aol.com writes
>Hello again all-
>Thank you so much for the information you all provided regarding my last 
>question regarding what documents you provide for your customers upon 
>delivery of windows.  I now have another question....
>I am having a  local professional flat glass shop install these windows.  
>They are custom making aluminum framing to go around the S.G. windows that 
>will then set inside the existing openings.  I just spoke with the glass shop 
>and they said that they will pick the windows up here at my studio but at NO 
>TIME, during transportation or installation, will they be responsible for any 
>damage that might occur.  They said it is not fair to their insurance company 
>if they have to make a claim on a product that isn't theirs. (makes sense)  
>So.......this means that either the church will be responsible, or I will.  
>Some of the contracts that I have read in the SGAA Tech and Reference manual 
>have statements such as "the risk of loss shall become the responsibility of 
>the purchaser upon notification of artwork being completed".  That being 
>said, I would think that it would be the responsibility of the church if 
>something were to break during the transportation or installation.  What are 
>your thoughts and general practice regarding this?  
>Thank you all in advance!
>
>
>Kauriee Wood
>The Looking Glass
>Dover, Delaware
>----
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-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Tue Oct 17 11:59:28 2000
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Kauriee@aol.com
Subject: Re: warranties
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 20:09:22 +0100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk

Hey, we are producing art.  Not products.
How many artists do you know that produce warranties?  

I just say "let me know if there are problems".

Steve

PS  in relation to transport.  I take that as part of my responsibility.
And in fact my insurance covers the transport of goods.  I think that is
the only responsible route.

Steve

In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, Kauriee@aol.com writes
>One more question.......
>What sort of warranties do you provide for your windows?
>Thanks,
>
>Kauriee
>----
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-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
----
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From owner-glass Wed Oct 18 08:02:23 2000
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X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Looking for glass decorative trees
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 10:48:21 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

This lady sent in the following request through the IGGA website.
If anyone would like to reply, please send your email to her at
EpieMae@aol.com

Christie A. Wood - IGGA Exec. Director
North Wales, PA USA
-------------Forwarded Message-----------------
From:	INTERNET:EpieMae@aol.com, INTERNET:EpieMae@aol.com
Date:	10/17/2000 10:23 PM
RE:	IGGA inquiry
 =

Hi - looking for east coast glass artist, Nathaniel Freeman.  AND, anybod=
y =

who has glass decorative trees.  Thnx.  ~Kathy  :)=
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From owner-glass Wed Oct 18 09:32:28 2000
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From: Craig Holloway <cholloway@mindspring.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Looking for glass.
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 11:15:24 -0400
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Precedence: bulk

I am looking for some glass for a couple of projects and have not been able
to find them. Does anyone know of a supplier? I am looking for 1)amber
iridescent fibroid, 2)amber cathedral with a textuer call "Niagara". Thanks
for any help you can give!
Craig

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From owner-glass Wed Oct 18 11:33:19 2000
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From: Patty.McMaster@fbol.com
To: GLASS@BUNGI.COM
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Gatewayed mail message
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 13:22:15 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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HI!!
I AM LOOKING FOR WITCH SKIN COLOR {FOR A HALLOWEEN PROJECT  DUHHH....}
& WOULD LIKE TO USE GREEN SHADOW GLASS
AFTER SEEING AMBER SHADOW GLASS  BUT WAS TOLD THEY DO NOT MAKE "GREEN
SHADOW GLASS , IS THIS TRUE?
   I LIVE IN ST LOUIS MO & WOULD LIKE TO GET IT SOMETIME SOON

THANKS FOR ANY HELP
ANYONE MAY HAVE

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From owner-glass Wed Oct 18 16:24:56 2000
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From: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@ix.netcom.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=x-user-defined
Subject: re: Window delivery
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 17:29:43 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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This really bothers me.

I don't think that the church should be responsible for the windows until 
installation is complete.

It sounds to me that you need insurance that will cover your windows in 
transport, in someone elses custody prior to installation, or be prepared
to *eat it*.

We have a similar situation with people wanting insulated panels.  (We
do a lot of doors) We have *one* company locally willing to insulated 
our panels.  What I hear is *no* body *wants* to insulate them.

We've just finished a $20,000 solid brass came entry system which 
consists of double doors (two large panels), 4 sidelights and a huge 
transom.  Total of 7 panels.  It's such a major pain because it takes 
us longer to clean the panels well enough to insulate, than it takes us
to build the panels.

The company that will insulate them has no form of guarantee at all.
If the panel comes back nasty inside the insulation...we have no 
recourse but to pay them to do it again.  So far, we warn the client, 
then if they insist on insulating, they take the risk, and if it has
to be redone *they* bite it.

I feel like they have the no garantee policy because they dont want to 
have anything to do with leaded panels...and will be relieved when we
quit sending them work.

Suzanne

>I am having a  local professional flat glass shop install these windows.  
>They are custom making aluminum framing to go around the S.G. windows that 
>will then set inside the existing openings.  I just spoke with the glass shop 
>and they said that they will pick the windows up here at my studio but at NO 
>TIME, during transportation or installation, will they be responsible for any 
>damage that might occur.  They said it is not fair to their insurance company 
>if they have to make a claim on a product that isn't theirs. (makes sense)  
>So.......this means that either the church will be responsible, or I will.  
>Some of the contracts that I have read in the SGAA Tech and Reference manual 
>have statements such as "the risk of loss shall become the responsibility of 
>the purchaser upon notification of artwork being completed".  That being 
>said, I would think that it would be the responsibility of the church if 
>something were to break during the transportation or installation.  What are 
>your thoughts and general practice regarding this?
----
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From owner-glass Wed Oct 18 19:02:47 2000
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From: "Robert. C. Bullock." <robertcbullock@enterprise.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: Window delivery..
Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2000 02:41:53 +0100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_002E_01C03976.23DA3100
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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The supplier, should have considered the cost and implications of =
delivery
at the time of calculating the estimate/quote for the job. There are =
very
few carriers who will cover the cost of damage to glass in transit.

Insurance should give full cover up to the time the completed works are
installed. At all times figure this into the estimate/quotation =
calculations.

However, it is better to deliver and install oneself. If one can make =
good
stained glass then it is always better and more satisfying to complete =
the
entire job yourself.
What will happen if a church requests a renovation to a stained glass =
window which is rendered into the stone fabric of the building? How will =
the lead light be removed and transported?

One cannot rely on others and the only way is to become self reliant. =
Accept the challenge and go for it. You will be surprised at how =
competant you are, you will learn and continue to learn. Learn how to do =
it yourself, the only way is to actually do it youself, and this will =
alleviate any problems you have with third parties.

A stained glass panel should never be fully insulated accept when
incorporated inside a double glazed unit and if so the glaziers should
accept full responsibility for any breakdown in seal. If the panel is =
not
incorporated into a double glazed unit then it will reqire ventilation =
to
prevent condensation forming. I could go on but I think a previous =
member
has dealt with this.

Regards,
Robert


------=_NextPart_000_002E_01C03976.23DA3100
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2014.210" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>The supplier, should have considered the cost and =
implications=20
of delivery<BR>at the time of calculating the estimate/quote for the =
job. There=20
are very<BR>few carriers who will cover the cost of damage to glass in=20
transit.<BR><BR>Insurance should give full cover up to the time the =
completed=20
works are<BR>installed. At all times figure this into the =
estimate/quotation=20
calculations.<BR><BR>However, it is better to deliver and install =
oneself. If=20
one can make good<BR>stained glass then it is always better and more =
satisfying=20
to complete the<BR>entire job yourself.<BR>What will happen if a church =
requests=20
a renovation to a stained glass window which is rendered into the stone =
fabric=20
of the building? How will the lead light be removed and =
transported?<BR><BR>One=20
cannot rely on others and the only way is to become self reliant. Accept =
the=20
challenge and go for it. You will be surprised at how competant you are, =
you=20
will learn and continue to learn. Learn how to do it yourself, the only =
way is=20
to actually do it youself, and this will alleviate any problems you have =
with=20
third parties.<BR><BR>A stained glass panel should never be fully =
insulated=20
accept when<BR>incorporated inside a double glazed unit and if so the =
glaziers=20
should<BR>accept full responsibility for any breakdown in seal. If the =
panel is=20
not<BR>incorporated into a double glazed unit then it will reqire =
ventilation=20
to<BR>prevent condensation forming. I could go on but I think a previous =

member<BR>has dealt with=20
this.<BR><BR>Regards,<BR>Robert<BR></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-glass Wed Oct 18 20:00:32 2000
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X-Path: usaor.net!mahoney
From: Ruth Mahoney <mahoney@usaor.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Retail Stained Glass Stores
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 22:42:46 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

I am a partner in a retail stained glass shop in Western PA and would
like to offer some suggestions and comments on the purchases of supplies
and glass for stained glass projects.  We offer the best selection of
stained glass in the tri-state area and carry glass from a number of
manufacturers including Bullseye, Spectrum, Uroboros, Youghiogheny,
Armstrong, Kokomo, Duncan, Oceana, etc.  We give individualized help to
our customers, teach excellent classes and are available any time to
help anyone.  It really hurts when so many people decide to purchase
supplies and glass from mail order houses and from the internet just
because the price is better.  If you have ever been in business yourself
you can appreciate the time and money that goes into having a successful
business.  We offer a 20% off discount card for our customers and most
of them have found that in purchasing this card and using it, they save
more than the cost of supplies on the internet or mailorder, especially
when you consider shipping charges.  I could never understand how anyone
who was making a Tiffany style lamp, for example, would purchase glass
they had not seen.  When time is taken to choose the right glass for the
right project, the outcome is spectacular.  Our Website is
signature-glass.com.  We encourage you to visit our site.

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From owner-glass Thu Oct 19 16:28:41 2000
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X-Path: home.com!lorley
From: Lorley Oneyear <lorley@home.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
Subject: new cutter
Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2000 16:05:43 -0700
Message-ID: <5.0.0.25.2.20001019160301.00a0e5c0@mail.rdc1.az.home.com>
Precedence: bulk

My glass cutter has a split in the barrel where the oil is stored. It's 
usable but messy. I'm looking to replace it. Any ideas on a brand name for 
me to look at. I've been using the one that looks like a fat pencil with 
the oil in the barrel so I'd like to stay with the style I'm used to. 
Thanks Lorley

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From owner-glass Thu Oct 19 17:32:45 2000
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X-Path: gdi.net!shodge
From: Skip Hodge <shodge@gdi.net>
To: Lorley Oneyear <lorley@home.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: new cutter
Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2000 19:49:35 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<5.0.0.25.2.20001019160301.00a0e5c0@mail.rdc1.az.home.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Lorley Oneyear wrote:
> 
> My glass cutter has a split in the barrel where the oil is stored. It's
> usable but messy. I'm looking to replace it. Any ideas on a brand name for
> me to look at. I've been using the one that looks like a fat pencil with
> the oil in the barrel so I'd like to stay with the style I'm used to.
> Thanks Lorley
> 
> ----
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Lorley,

Before you settle try out a Toyo Pistol Grip cutter. I have been using
one for almost 6 years and I can use it all day and not get tired. The
pencil type wear me out in about 1/2 hour.

Skip
Southern Exposure Stained Glass Supply, Inc.
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From owner-glass Thu Oct 19 19:02:48 2000
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X-Path: ghostman.com!candy
From: "Candy" <candy@ghostman.com>
To: "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: new cutter
Date: Thu, 19 Oct 00 19:41:24 
Message-ID: <200010200144.TAA09255@mantis.privatei.com>
Precedence: bulk

Lorley,
over the years, doing computer work, I have developed carpal tunnel syndrome. I've 
used the long Toyo, which is just too long for my hand. And I've tried the pistol grip, 
which everyone says is wonderful. I hated it. It was hard to control and put most of the 
cutting pressure right on the carpal tunnel area. The one I settled on and still use, 
without any fatigue, is the Score II by Fletcher.

I would suggest you find a shop that has many different kinds/brands and try them out 
before you buy one. And of course, if you're trying them out there, buy there also!

Candy

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From owner-glass Thu Oct 19 20:33:43 2000
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X-Path: go.com!officerjqg
From: James Garner <officerjqg@go.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Subject: Glass cutter wheel
Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2000 19:05:11 -0700 (PDT)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Speaking of glass cutters..... My fater in law uses an antique glass cutter that has a ball that goes in the palm of your hand and a bar that extends to the outside fingers. (It looks odd) anyway to use it you have to dip the cutting weel in oil every so often.  He has stated the the wheel is getting worn out.  I cant find a suplier that sells only the cutting wheel.  I dont want to buy a new cutter just to take the weel off.  Any sugestions.


James
James Garner
___________________________________________________
GO.com Mail                                    
Get Your Free, Private E-mail at http://mail.go.com


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From owner-glass Thu Oct 19 20:39:32 2000
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X-Path: ix.netcom.com!gunnx4
From: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@ix.netcom.com>
To: Candy <candy@ghostman.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=x-user-defined
Subject: Re: new cutter
Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2000 22:22:44 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<200010200144.TAA09255@mantis.privatei.com>>
Precedence: bulk

I too used the Toyo TC-10 brass cutter for years, had my carpul tunnel
surgery in April. :o/

A good friend sent me a pistol grip to try out.  I dont like cutting
with it.  

I tried the new toyo TC-21 V at Glass Visions...and man am I in love.
I LOVE that cutter.  It's still and upright, but it has a little *thing*
that goes into your hand that makes a world of difference for me.

There is also a new cutter that my boss uses, It's called a "Far East"
It's inexpensive but cuts like a dream.  It's a pencil type cutter, and
I like it as much as a Toyo.  It's molded plastic so easier to hold on
to for me than the TC-10.

Suzanne, who really LOVES her TC-21V

Candy wrote:
> 
> Lorley,
> over the years, doing computer work, I have developed carpal tunnel syndrome. I've
> used the long Toyo, which is just too long for my hand. And I've tried the pistol grip,
> which everyone says is wonderful. I hated it. It was hard to control and put most of the
> cutting pressure right on the carpal tunnel area. The one I settled on and still use,
> without any fatigue, is the Score II by Fletcher.
> 
> I would suggest you find a shop that has many different kinds/brands and try them out
> before you buy one. And of course, if you're trying them out there, buy there also!
> 
> Candy
> 
> ----
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> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
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From owner-glass Fri Oct 20 01:05:29 2000
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To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: Re: Stained Glas Stores
Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2000 19:11:13 -0700
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I have not once replied to this list sense I subscribed, but your letter =
deserves a comment.  I live in Bakersfield, Ca.  We have one stained =
glass store here and he only sells supplies as a courtesy.  I order most =
of my supplies from the internet.  When I do go to my local glass =
supplier to get supplies, I feel like I am keeping him from his work.  =
Though he is always courteous and helpful.  Not only that, I all of a =
sudden can't make up my mind when trying to choose glass.  I can sit at =
home and choose what I need easier than going to the glass shop.  If we =
had a major retailer in town, I am sure I would buy my supplies from =
there.  But when I am real busy and can't get out, the convenience of =
sitting in my living room late at night ordering supplies is great.  I =
don't order on the internet because it is cheaper, I order their because =
it is more convenient for me.  I feel it is very important to keep are =
local glass suppliers alive.  I am looking into becoming one myself in =
the near future.  But don't feel hurt when someone chooses to order from =
an internet supplier and not you.  Many times their are things in their =
lives other than price that is driving them there.

------=_NextPart_000_000D_01C03A00.594E7960
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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I have not once replied to this list =
sense I=20
subscribed, but your letter deserves a comment.&nbsp; I live in =
Bakersfield,=20
Ca.&nbsp; We have one stained glass store here and he only sells =
supplies as a=20
courtesy.&nbsp; I order most of my supplies from the internet.&nbsp; =
When I do=20
go to my local glass supplier to get supplies, I feel like I am keeping =
him from=20
his work.&nbsp; Though he is always courteous and helpful.&nbsp; Not =
only that,=20
I all of a sudden can't make up my mind when trying to choose =
glass.&nbsp; I can=20
sit at home and choose what I need easier than going to the glass =
shop.&nbsp; If=20
we had a major retailer in town, I am sure I would buy my supplies from=20
there.&nbsp; But when I am real busy and can't get out, the convenience =
of=20
sitting in&nbsp;my living room late at night ordering supplies is =
great.&nbsp; I=20
don't order on the internet because it is cheaper, I order their because =
it is=20
more convenient for me.&nbsp; I feel it is very important to keep are =
local=20
glass suppliers alive.&nbsp; I am looking into becoming one myself in =
the near=20
future.&nbsp; But don't feel hurt when someone chooses to order from an =
internet=20
supplier and not you.&nbsp; Many times their are things in their lives =
other=20
than price that is driving them there.</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-glass Fri Oct 20 01:28:28 2000
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	for rglass-42; Fri, 20 Oct 2000 01:06:31 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #507 built 2000-Oct-19)
X-Path: earthlink.net!glasscutter
From: Gerry Phibbs <glasscutter@earthlink.net>
To: James Garner <officerjqg@go.com>,
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Subject: Re: Glass cutter wheel
Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2000 01:01:40 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Organization: International Guild of Glass Artists, Inc
Precedence: bulk

Hi James,

  Try contacting these folks for just that cutter wheel.

     C. R. Laurence Co. Inc., 2503 E. Vernon Ave., Los Angeles  CA
90058  (800) 421-
6144  Fax: (800) 262-3299  Email: crl@crlaurence.com  Web site:
www.crlaurence.com  C. R. Laurence Co., Inc. (CRL) is a leading supplier
to the
glazing, construction, industrial and automotive industries.  Offering
more than 20,000
products, the company serves the industry from 18 locations throughout
North
America and Europe.

or go to one of the more well known manufacturers..

     The Fletcher-Terry Co., 65 Spring Lane, Farmington  CT  06032-3311
(860) 677-
7331  (800) 843-3826  Fax: (860) 676-8858  Email:
customerservice@fletcher-
terry.com  Web site: www.fletcher-terry.com  Telex: 966-479
Manufacturer of glass,
plastic and matboard cutting tools and equipment for the stained glass,
picture
framing, flat glass, and other industries.

  I'd try these places first, but it may be possible that the wheel on
this palm cutter is somewhat of a special size or angle, and therefore
may not be quite as readily available.

  Peace  -Gerry

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From owner-glass Fri Oct 20 06:32:22 2000
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X-Path: aol.com!PookyPook
From: PookyPook@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: new cutter
Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2000 09:13:49 EDT
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

While we are on the subject of cutters.... I use the pistol grip and love it. 
However, mine seems to use a lot of oil. Even when I don't use it. I swear 
that after I have stopped using it for a day or so, that the oil seems to 
disappear. Is there some adjustment I should be making?

Ruth
pookypook@AOL.com
http://members.aol.com/RTSkeeter
http://members.aol.com/Alyeska222
ICQ11716411
"Ever stop to think and forget to start again?" 
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From owner-glass Fri Oct 20 06:39:43 2000
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	for rglass-42; Fri, 20 Oct 2000 06:34:31 -0700 (PDT)
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X-Path: go.com!officerjqg
From: James Garner <officerjqg@go.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Subject: Outside Glass Stands Cont.
Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2000 06:32:31 -0700 (PDT)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

I thought I posted this but I Guess I did not.  These were picks of the stand and glass I have around.  I would of did better ones but my wife sold the last one we had last week, I didnt know.
The first is the picture of one the "rounds" we put in the stand.  It has been in one off and on for a year.  I am suprised at how well the glass holds up.  I cant find any signs od wear and tear.
 http://www.geocities.com/officerjqg/roundexample.jpg
The second is a coseup view of the top of the stand and how we attached it.  I do not have any full shots that are detaialed enough to do it justice.
http://www.geocities.com/officerjqg/Image002.jpg
I have never seen the mass prodused (overpriced) stands in person.  I have seen pictures of them in catalogues.  They appear not to be the most stout things.  In my climate that is important to me.  Fortunatly I live in an area where welding shops are common.  I supose in the big city they would cost much more to do.  

James
James Garner
___________________________________________________
GO.com Mail                                    
Get Your Free, Private E-mail at http://mail.go.com


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From owner-glass Fri Oct 20 08:32:14 2000
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	for rglass-42; Fri, 20 Oct 2000 08:23:04 -0700 (PDT)
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X-Path: virgin.net!w.fludgate
From: "w.fludgate" <w.fludgate@virgin.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: BioChem Glass web site
Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2000 16:20:52 +0100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Organization: www.biochemglass.com
Precedence: bulk

here is a new web site that might interest hobbyists that might require
supplies or training.
visit us at

http://www.biochemglass.com

or

http://www.biochemglass.co.uk

regards
Bill
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From owner-glass Fri Oct 20 09:07:28 2000
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X-Path: mindspring.com!cholloway
From: Craig Holloway <cholloway@mindspring.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Glass Cutter
Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2000 11:56:36 -0400
Message-ID: <1.5.4.32.20001020155636.0069e524@pop.mindspring.com>
Precedence: bulk

The pistol grip is a good choice for those with hand problems. However, the
Cutters Mate is even better if you can afford one. The swivel action of the
cutter arm combinded with the 2" weighted grip cutter hand hold which ueses
a Toyo self oiling cutter offers control you can not beleive.
Craig

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From owner-glass Fri Oct 20 12:41:31 2000
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X-Path: ilnk.com!andor
From: "Linda Jo Letscher" <andor@ilnk.com>
To: "Meyer" <meyer64@earthlink.net>,
Subject: Re: Stained Glas Stores
Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2000 15:34:13 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Meyer,

I agree I don't bother to post most times either.

I buy my glass and supplies mostly over the internet from Warner-Crivallero
that also has a retail store in Pa.  But I live in a town where retailers
come and go like the hurricane season.  So I have built my own resources
over the years and have learned not to depend on the small local guy that
might not be there next week.  When someone comes into town and sets up shop
I try to give them business, mostly glass if I can.  But like you say often
these are small studios really (that are selling what they have left over
from their comission jobs) and the mail order places/internet site of W-C
offer a larger selection and such.  We have a new glass retailer about 40
miles away, and I try to give them some business but, always price is the
factor.  We talk glass and it is a nice trip for me.  They are good folks
and I have told all the glass folks I know about them.  That is the best I
can do for them.

But I still buy where I get the best price for what I am looking for.  If
the local guy can do that then fine.  I am willing to pay a little more per
square foot for a piece of glass to be able to look at it and pick, but that
isn't always an option for me.

A retailer has to earn the loyalty of the customers not demand it.  So far I
haven't run into any here in my town that stayed in business long enough to
garner that respect.

Oh well, I get my glass and supplies and that is all that counts.

Later,
Linda Jo
----- Original Message -----
From: "Meyer" <meyer64@earthlink.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 19, 2000 10:11 PM
Subject: Re: Stained Glas Stores


> This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
>
> ------=_NextPart_000_000D_01C03A00.594E7960
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>
> I have not once replied to this list sense I subscribed, but your letter =
> deserves a comment.  I live in Bakersfield, Ca.  We have one stained =
> glass store here and he only sells supplies as a courtesy.  I order most =
> of my supplies from the internet.  When I do go to my local glass =
> supplier to get supplies, I feel like I am keeping him from his work.  =
> Though he is always courteous and helpful.  Not only that, I all of a =
> sudden can't make up my mind when trying to choose glass.  I can sit at =
> home and choose what I need easier than going to the glass shop.  If we =
> had a major retailer in town, I am sure I would buy my supplies from =
> there.  But when I am real busy and can't get out, the convenience of =
> sitting in my living room late at night ordering supplies is great.  I =
> don't order on the internet because it is cheaper, I order their because =
> it is more convenient for me.  I feel it is very important to keep are =
> local glass suppliers alive.  I am looking into becoming one myself in =
> the near future.  But don't feel hurt when someone chooses to order from =
> an internet supplier and not you.  Many times their are things in their =
> lives other than price that is driving them there.
>
> ------=_NextPart_000_000D_01C03A00.594E7960
> Content-Type: text/html;
> charset="iso-8859-1"
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
>
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> <STYLE></STYLE>
> </HEAD>
> <BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I have not once replied to this list =
> sense I=20
> subscribed, but your letter deserves a comment.&nbsp; I live in =
> Bakersfield,=20
> Ca.&nbsp; We have one stained glass store here and he only sells =
> supplies as a=20
> courtesy.&nbsp; I order most of my supplies from the internet.&nbsp; =
> When I do=20
> go to my local glass supplier to get supplies, I feel like I am keeping =
> him from=20
> his work.&nbsp; Though he is always courteous and helpful.&nbsp; Not =
> only that,=20
> I all of a sudden can't make up my mind when trying to choose =
> glass.&nbsp; I can=20
> sit at home and choose what I need easier than going to the glass =
> shop.&nbsp; If=20
> we had a major retailer in town, I am sure I would buy my supplies from=20
> there.&nbsp; But when I am real busy and can't get out, the convenience =
> of=20
> sitting in&nbsp;my living room late at night ordering supplies is =
> great.&nbsp; I=20
> don't order on the internet because it is cheaper, I order their because =
> it is=20
> more convenient for me.&nbsp; I feel it is very important to keep are =
> local=20
> glass suppliers alive.&nbsp; I am looking into becoming one myself in =
> the near=20
> future.&nbsp; But don't feel hurt when someone chooses to order from an =
> internet=20
> supplier and not you.&nbsp; Many times their are things in their lives =
> other=20
> than price that is driving them there.</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
>
> ------=_NextPart_000_000D_01C03A00.594E7960--
>
> ----
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From owner-glass Fri Oct 20 13:46:33 2000
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X-Path: aol.com!GlassByDes
From: GlassByDes@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="part1_26.c36cf08.27220617_boundary"
Subject: Fwd: Stained Glas Stores
Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2000 16:33:27 EDT
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Precedence: bulk


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What did Warner do to earn your business? Send you a fancy flyer. It no 
wonder the small stores go out of business with loyalty like yours. You buy 
two thing at the small retailer/service and answers to problems. If you small 
retailer provides neither then I say shame on them. When only the Internet 
and the catalogs remain, then I guess you can order books, tapes and 
subscribe to Internet list to learn the fine art of Stained Glass, Mosaics, 
Etching, Fusing, Pate-DE Verde and Painting on glass. Our prices are 
comparable to Warners, Glass Crafters, Delhi, ect, but it always amuses me 
when a customer who has never bought from us walks through the door because 
the just cant figure out how to change the blade to the Taurus which they 
bought via mail order or Internet. They always seem to reply with we called 
??? or we E-mailed. Typical response is that they must send it to the 
manufacture. Do we help them replace the blade, you bet we do at no cost.  We 
have to put it your way, earned several customers this way. While others we 
never see again. Oh well I hope for their sake it doesn't break down again. 
Their is always the manufacture.

Glass By Design, Inc.
Fort Lauderdale, FL 

http:://www.stainedglassbydesign.com

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X-Path: ilnk.com!andor
From: "Linda Jo Letscher" <andor@ilnk.com>
To: "Meyer" <meyer64@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Stained Glas Stores
Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2000 15:34:13 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk
X-Mailer: Unknown

Meyer,

I agree I don't bother to post most times either.

I buy my glass and supplies mostly over the internet from Warner-Crivallero
that also has a retail store in Pa.  But I live in a town where retailers
come and go like the hurricane season.  So I have built my own resources
over the years and have learned not to depend on the small local guy that
might not be there next week.  When someone comes into town and sets up shop
I try to give them business, mostly glass if I can.  But like you say often
these are small studios really (that are selling what they have left over
from their comission jobs) and the mail order places/internet site of W-C
offer a larger selection and such.  We have a new glass retailer about 40
miles away, and I try to give them some business but, always price is the
factor.  We talk glass and it is a nice trip for me.  They are good folks
and I have told all the glass folks I know about them.  That is the best I
can do for them.

But I still buy where I get the best price for what I am looking for.  If
the local guy can do that then fine.  I am willing to pay a little more per
square foot for a piece of glass to be able to look at it and pick, but that
isn't always an option for me.

A retailer has to earn the loyalty of the customers not demand it.  So far I
haven't run into any here in my town that stayed in business long enough to
garner that respect.

Oh well, I get my glass and supplies and that is all that counts.

Later,
Linda Jo
----- Original Message -----
From: "Meyer" <meyer64@earthlink.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 19, 2000 10:11 PM
Subject: Re: Stained Glas Stores


> This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
>
> ------=_NextPart_000_000D_01C03A00.594E7960
> Content-Type: text/plain;
> charset="iso-8859-1"
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
>
> I have not once replied to this list sense I subscribed, but your letter =
> deserves a comment.  I live in Bakersfield, Ca.  We have one stained =
> glass store here and he only sells supplies as a courtesy.  I order most =
> of my supplies from the internet.  When I do go to my local glass =
> supplier to get supplies, I feel like I am keeping him from his work.  =
> Though he is always courteous and helpful.  Not only that, I all of a =
> sudden can't make up my mind when trying to choose glass.  I can sit at =
> home and choose what I need easier than going to the glass shop.  If we =
> had a major retailer in town, I am sure I would buy my supplies from =
> there.  But when I am real busy and can't get out, the convenience of =
> sitting in my living room late at night ordering supplies is great.  I =
> don't order on the internet because it is cheaper, I order their because =
> it is more convenient for me.  I feel it is very important to keep are =
> local glass suppliers alive.  I am looking into becoming one myself in =
> the near future.  But don't feel hurt when someone chooses to order from =
> an internet supplier and not you.  Many times their are things in their =
> lives other than price that is driving them there.
>
> ------=_NextPart_000_000D_01C03A00.594E7960
> Content-Type: text/html;
> charset="iso-8859-1"
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
>
> <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
> <HTML><HEAD>
> <META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
> http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
> <META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3500" name=3DGENERATOR>
> <STYLE></STYLE>
> </HEAD>
> <BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I have not once replied to this list =
> sense I=20
> subscribed, but your letter deserves a comment.  I live in =
> Bakersfield,=20
> Ca.  We have one stained glass store here and he only sells =
> supplies as a=20
> courtesy.  I order most of my supplies from the internet.  =
> When I do=20
> go to my local glass supplier to get supplies, I feel like I am keeping =
> him from=20
> his work.  Though he is always courteous and helpful.  Not =
> only that,=20
> I all of a sudden can't make up my mind when trying to choose =
> glass.  I can=20
> sit at home and choose what I need easier than going to the glass =
> shop.  If=20
> we had a major retailer in town, I am sure I would buy my supplies from=20
> there.  But when I am real busy and can't get out, the convenience =
> of=20
> sitting in my living room late at night ordering supplies is =
> great.  I=20
> don't order on the internet because it is cheaper, I order their because =
> it is=20
> more convenient for me.  I feel it is very important to keep are =
> local=20
> glass suppliers alive.  I am looking into becoming one myself in =
> the near=20
> future.  But don't feel hurt when someone chooses to order from an =
> internet=20
> supplier and not you.  Many times their are things in their lives =
> other=20
> than price that is driving them there.</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
>
> ------=_NextPart_000_000D_01C03A00.594E7960--
>
> ----
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From owner-glass Fri Oct 20 14:05:45 2000
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X-Path: go.com!officerjqg
From: James Garner <officerjqg@go.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Subject: RE: Stained Glass Stores.
Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2000 13:28:54 -0700 (PDT)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

I also use internet companies for everything except glass.  I prefere to order my glass through a small studio in a town close to mine.  She gets it faster and I dont see much of a price diffrence.  When I go there I then peruse her glass she has laying around.  I buy a square of anything there that peaks my interest.  Then I steal her scraps.  She likes to use extrenly expensive glass in her comissions and throws away pretty big pieces.  Anyway.. thats my 2 cents.


James

James Garner
___________________________________________________
GO.com Mail                                    
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From owner-glass Fri Oct 20 15:41:39 2000
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From: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@ix.netcom.com>
To: GlassByDes@aol.com, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=x-user-defined
Subject: Re: Fwd: Stained Glas Stores
Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2000 16:19:42 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Sounds like you have never met Charles or Marianne Warner.  They are
wonderful people who spend a lot of time answering questions and doing
everything they can for their customers that any other retailer Ive ever
met does.  They have incredible customer service, the best selection,
and they built their business up from the ground.

They deserve everything they have, most small retailers that complain
about them only suffer from jealousy as far as I can tell.  Charles and
Marianne came from the same place as most of us, but apparently they are
smarter than most, cause they have been very successful at what they
do.  If anything I only admire them for that.  

They are good hearted people and are as accessable as any other glass
retailer Ive ever met or talked to.

Suzanne

GlassByDes@aol.com wrote:
> 
> What did Warner do to earn your business? Send you a fancy flyer. It no
> wonder the small stores go out of business with loyalty like yours. You buy
> two thing at the small retailer/service and answers to problems. If you small
> retailer provides neither then I say shame on them.
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From owner-glass Fri Oct 20 15:46:39 2000
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From: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@ix.netcom.com>
To: Meyer <meyer64@earthlink.net>, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=x-user-defined
Subject: Re: Stained Glass Stores
Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2000 16:10:35 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk



Ok...I'll toss in my pennies too.

I work for a local studio.  Our major business is fabrication.
We have limited supplies, but lots of glass.  We have a few regular 
customers who buy glass from us.  (and a few other supplies)

*I* buy the majority of *my* supplies online.  I do have my employer
order some things for me.  Price is VERY important to me. Stained glass
studios arent the highest paying employers in the world! ;o)

If it costs me less to order online, I will.  If it will be more
afordable to buy from my employer I will.  I work very hard for my 
money, and have to be frugal.  Im lucky that I love my employer, and 
get to work in a job that I do what I love to do.  I'll be even luckier
if they ever pay me what *I* think Im worth! :o)  Then I may just shop
according to whose selection is best and gives the best customer
service.  The places I buy from are *ACE* in that catagory already
though! 

BTW, Im real open with my boss about the supplies I use and where I buy
them.  They dont take offense if I dont buy from them.

Suzanne
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From owner-glass Fri Oct 20 15:59:57 2000
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X-Path: ilnk.com!andor
From: "Linda Jo Letscher" <andor@ilnk.com>
To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: Stained Glas Stores
Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2000 17:26:10 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

My My My aren't we sensitive.
Eljay




> What did Warner do to earn your business? Send you a fancy flyer. It no
> wonder the small stores go out of business with loyalty like yours. You
buy
> two thing at the small retailer/service and answers to problems. If you
small
> retailer provides neither then I say shame on them. When only the Internet
> and the catalogs remain, then I guess you can order books, tapes and
> subscribe to Internet list to learn the fine art of Stained Glass,
Mosaics,
> Etching, Fusing, Pate-DE Verde and Painting on glass. Our prices are
> comparable to Warners, Glass Crafters, Delhi, ect, but it always amuses me
> when a customer who has never bought from us walks through the door
because
> the just cant figure out how to change the blade to the Taurus which they
> bought via mail order or Internet. They always seem to reply with we
called
> ??? or we E-mailed. Typical response is that they must send it to the
> manufacture. Do we help them replace the blade, you bet we do at no cost.
We
> have to put it your way, earned several customers this way. While others
we
> never see again. Oh well I hope for their sake it doesn't break down
again.
> Their is always the manufacture.
>
> Glass By Design, Inc.
> Fort Lauderdale, FL
>
> http:://www.stainedglassbydesign.com
>


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From owner-glass Fri Oct 20 16:02:12 2000
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X-Path: ix.netcom.com!gunnx4
From: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@ix.netcom.com>
To: James Garner <officerjqg@go.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=x-user-defined
Subject: Re: Stained Glass Stores.
Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2000 16:28:33 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

One of the problems with the local glass shops in my area is they mainly
only carry Spectrum and Kokomo.  They have limited selections of
Youghiogheny, Uroburos, Chicago Artglass, Armstrong, etc....

What they do carry of Yough, Bullseye, or Uroburos, they want you to
trade them something like an arm or a leg.  Sheesh...I cant afford
anything but Spectrum locally! If you can afford to give up one of your
favorite appendages, they might have 3 different sheets to choose 
from!  Give me Warner-Criv any day!  If I order glass sight unseen, and
I dont like it that much for what I ordered it for, I'll use it sooner
or later for something else.

Although I like spectrum and Kokomo fine for some things I use other
glass as well.

Suzanne

James Garner wrote:
> 
> I also use internet companies for everything except glass.  I prefere to order my glass through a small studio in a town close to mine.  She gets it faster and I dont see much of a price diffrence.  When I go there I then peruse her glass she has laying around.  I buy a square of anything there that peaks my interest.  Then I steal her scraps.  She likes to use extrenly expensive glass in her comissions and throws away pretty big pieces.  Anyway.. thats my 2 cents.
> 
> James
> 
> James Garner
> ___________________________________________________
> GO.com Mail
> Get Your Free, Private E-mail at http://mail.go.com
> 
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From owner-glass Fri Oct 20 17:03:38 2000
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X-Path: pro-ns.net!jdahlin
From: "J. Dahlin" <jdahlin@pro-ns.net>
To: GlassByDes@aol.com, Bungi Glass Group <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Fwd: Stained Glas Stores
Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2000 18:57:57 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

I would be happy to buy my stained glass supplies locally - - - BUT when
the local store puts a price on a pound of pre-tinned copper wire of
$13.95 and I can get the exact same item from WC for $6.95, why would I
buy it locally?  If they want to go in for the price gouging, I simply
won't buy there.  Also, this particular merchant has a sign posted in
his store saying that if anyone brings in a mail order catalog, they
will be asked to leave and not come back.  I don't need my catalog along
with me to know his prices are out of line.

I do buy glass locally when I am looking for special glass, but if
Spectrum is what I want, then it is far more economical to order from WC
and pay the shipping.  My local merchant really doesn't give me an
option, if I am going to sell my finished product and make a profit.  I
really don't want to work for nothing.  I enjoy doing stained glass, but
not to that extent.



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From owner-glass Fri Oct 20 17:16:56 2000
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X-Path: stratus.com!Charlie_Spitzer
From: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie_Spitzer@stratus.com>
To: "'GlassByDes@aol.com'" <GlassByDes@aol.com>,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE: Stained Glass Stores
Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2000 16:02:27 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

business 101: there will ALWAYS be someone willing to sell what you are
selling for cheaper. if you have put your head in the sand concerning
internet marketing and wishing it will all just go away, your shop is going
to go the way of the dinosaurs. if you can't differentiate on some phase of
your business (installation, custom design, customer service, what have
you), then you might as well close up shop now. warner crivello has just
done a better job at selling commodity items better than most.

embrace the network. this EXPANDS your possible clientele. if you think of
it as limiting, then by definition, it is.

frankly, your shop is 2500 miles from me and the great majority, if not all,
of the people on this list will never enter your shop. why should i worry
about your local customers? and thusly, why are you worrying about whether i
patronize my local stores? if they haven't figured out the above paragraph,
their shop will just as dead as your shop.

btw: you're using an aol account. that's based in virginia. why aren't you
using a local isp?

regards,
charlie
phx, az

> -----Original Message-----
> From: GlassByDes@aol.com [mailto:GlassByDes@aol.com]
> Sent: Friday, October 20, 2000 1:33 PM
> To: glass@bungi.com
> Subject: Fwd: Stained Glas Stores
> 
> 
> What did Warner do to earn your business? Send you a fancy 
> flyer. It no 
> wonder the small stores go out of business with loyalty like 
> yours. You buy 
> two thing at the small retailer/service and answers to 
> problems. If you small 
> retailer provides neither then I say shame on them. When only 
> the Internet 
> and the catalogs remain, then I guess you can order books, tapes and 
> subscribe to Internet list to learn the fine art of Stained 
> Glass, Mosaics, 
> Etching, Fusing, Pate-DE Verde and Painting on glass. Our prices are 
> comparable to Warners, Glass Crafters, Delhi, ect, but it 
> always amuses me 
> when a customer who has never bought from us walks through 
> the door because 
> the just cant figure out how to change the blade to the 
> Taurus which they 
> bought via mail order or Internet. They always seem to reply 
> with we called 
> ??? or we E-mailed. Typical response is that they must send it to the 
> manufacture. Do we help them replace the blade, you bet we do 
> at no cost.  We 
> have to put it your way, earned several customers this way. 
> While others we 
> never see again. Oh well I hope for their sake it doesn't 
> break down again. 
> Their is always the manufacture.
> 
> Glass By Design, Inc.
> Fort Lauderdale, FL 
> 
> http:://www.stainedglassbydesign.com
> 
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From owner-glass Fri Oct 20 17:32:17 2000
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X-Path: ix.netcom.com!gunnx4
From: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@ix.netcom.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=x-user-defined
Subject: local retailers
Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2000 18:39:42 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

I wont generalize for all over the country....but in my area, there are
several studio/retailers.  One of which I work for, and I know them all.
(I worked for one of the others in the past also)

Each of them have their own way of doing things, as do we all....and
nobody seems to have all the answers.  Some have lots more experience,
but all of us make a bad score every once in a while, or put that bevel
in upside down occaisionally or some other thing we know better than to
do.

Not only have I learned a thing or two from them, but Ive also taught
some of them a thing or two...and no they didnt have to buy anything
from me for me to share my knowledge.

BTW, I bought my Taurus from WC, and when the blade broke, Gemini was
more than happy to send me a free blade and walk me through
installation, call me back to check up on me etc.

Just because a person doesnt own a retail shop doesnt make them a dim
wit.

Some retailers never leave their shop...and only learn what *their*
suppliers tell them. Even old dogs can learn new tricks.

Suzanne
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From owner-glass Fri Oct 20 19:27:56 2000
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X-Path: home.com!cecnralph
From: Cecily&Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Subject: Re: New Cutters
Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2000 22:04:10 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Organization: Grendel Studio
Precedence: bulk

Why just one cutter?  I have a variety and switch, expecially since I
have arthritic hands.  Plus I seem to achieve better accuracy for one
type of cut with one and another type of cut with another.  - Cec

--
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************


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From owner-glass Fri Oct 20 20:28:00 2000
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X-Path: erols.com!deethom
From: Dee Thompson <deethom@erols.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: New Cutters
Date: Sat, 21 Oct 2000 22:52:09 -0400
Message-ID: <3.0.32.20001021225208.0073aa84@pop.erols.com>
Precedence: bulk

yup, me too. I use a toyo pistol grip, a fletcher pencil shape and an old
red devil steel wheel...different ones for different glass, as well as a
change of grip.
Dee

At 10:04 PM 10/20/00 -0400, you wrote:
>Why just one cutter?  I have a variety and switch, expecially since I
>have arthritic hands.  Plus I seem to achieve better accuracy for one
>type of cut with one and another type of cut with another.  - Cec
>
>--
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From owner-glass Sat Oct 21 04:31:55 2000
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X-Path: aol.com!CncptThnkr
From: CncptThnkr@aol.com
To: Glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: retail stained glass stores
Date: Sat, 21 Oct 2000 07:17:55 EDT
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hello all,

I want to add my cent or two to the fray. <grin>  My closest retailer has the 
personality of a corpse and wouldn't give you advice if his life depended on 
it but is there when I need some copper foil, solder or glass asap.  Suzanne 
pointed out that while some may think WC is a large faceless catalog 
retailer, it's really run by wonderful people who know glass....Delphi is the 
same.  Delphi is about 100 miles from me and well worth the trip.  When I was 
considering a band saw they handed me glass and said "try them" (I did buy 
one, but so far it's only been used to cut bathroom tile <vbg>)  When I 
wanted some glass with "just the right shading" they stood sheets in front of 
the window so I could choose exactly which variety of glass I wanted and what 
portion of the sheet I wanted.  I found a glass bevler reduced to $119 from 
$268 because it had been a mail order return and was used, they opened the 
box from a new one so we could compare to find if all the pieces were there 
and even called the distributor to check something we found confusing then 
gave me the phone # and name of who to talk to in case I had more questions.  
I consider that service, don't you?   

The big catalog retailers aren't K-Mart, they are glass people who've 
accomplished what some small retailers never will be able to accomplish.  
It's up to each retailer to find their niche and hold onto their share of the 
market, but you already know that don't you?  

Ok, off my soap box, hope everyone has a great weekend.

Patricia (who is currently spellcheckerless and apologizes for any and all 
errors)
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From owner-glass Sat Oct 21 07:02:18 2000
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X-Path: aol.com!Romajoco
From: Romajoco@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: Stained Glas Stores
Date: Sat, 21 Oct 2000 09:53:39 EDT
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

<< http:://www.stainedglassbydesign.com >>
Our prices are
> comparable to Warners, Glass Crafters, Delhi, ect, 

In my opinion you want to have the best of both worlds.  I see that you have 
a website....where people that DO NOT LIVE close to you can order from you. 

I recently moved to an area that has only 1 SG store.....most of the time 
when I go there, they DO NOT have the color glass that I need or what.  I am 
not talking expensive glass........there have been pieces that I used 
Spectrum or Armstrong in and needed just a little more. Now as far as them 
having "art glass", forget it. It is very discouraging to go to a store and 
get the comment, "we do not have that", almost every time you enter.  Also 
this store is NOT LIKE most other SG stores that I have entered, the people 
are not friendly or overly helpful.  Like Suzanne said they are there mainly 
for fabrication.

Now if I am going to order anything, I have to believe the company that I am 
going to order from will have the items and ship it to me in a timely matter. 
 I do not want to have to wait around for a small store to order it from 
their supplier and then ship it to me. I was told one time by a retail store 
that it would take them 8 weeks to get me some bevels....I think not.  There 
was 2 wholesale warehouses in the same town and as much fabrication as this 
place did, it would not have taken them that long to come up with the minimum 
order that they would have had to place.

You have a retail store, that is great.....but you must want people that live 
farther away from you to shop from you also....because you have a website.  
Unless people have won the lottery, we have to watch where are money goes.  I 
love to do SG but it is not an inexpensive hobby to get into.

Margie
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From owner-glass Sat Oct 21 08:02:06 2000
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X-Path: aol.com!GlassByDes
From: GlassByDes@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: SG Stores
Date: Sat, 21 Oct 2000 10:32:45 EDT
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

My final comments. Yes, Marianne is a great person, which to add we have 
purchase castings and several items from her in the past. My main point is 
yes price and service are important concerns. You have the right to walk into 
a SG retailer and expect completive prices and service. If you live in an 
area far away from a retailer then you have no choice. If your local retailer 
is not competitive then shame on him. It is his loss. Glass selection is 
important. The Internet mail order selling is a small portion of our 
business. But it has also brought a lot of local and world travelers who look 
for stores in the Fort Lauderdale area. As for a customer base, we have no 
problem with this being in a metro are over 5 million.  Happy cutting.

Glass By Design, Inc.
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From owner-glass Sat Oct 21 08:57:23 2000
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X-Path: mindspring.com!cholloway
From: Craig Holloway <cholloway@mindspring.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: local retailers
Date: Sat, 21 Oct 2000 11:31:16 -0400
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Precedence: bulk

At 06:39 PM 10/20/00 -0500, you wrote:
>I wont generalize for all over the country....but in my area, there are
>several studio/retailers.  One of which I work for, and I know them all.
>(I worked for one of the others in the past also)
>
>Each of them have their own way of doing things, as do we all....and
>nobody seems to have all the answers.  Some have lots more experience,
>but all of us make a bad score every once in a while, or put that bevel
>in upside down occaisionally or some other thing we know better than to
>do.
>
>Not only have I learned a thing or two from them, but Ive also taught
>some of them a thing or two...and no they didnt have to buy anything
>from me for me to share my knowledge.
>
>BTW, I bought my Taurus from WC, and when the blade broke, Gemini was
>more than happy to send me a free blade and walk me through
>installation, call me back to check up on me etc.
>
>Just because a person doesnt own a retail shop doesnt make them a dim
>wit.
>
>Some retailers never leave their shop...and only learn what *their*
>suppliers tell them. Even old dogs can learn new tricks.
>
>Suzanne
>----
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>I want to add my two cents to this topic. My local dealer is a glass shop
not a studio who sells retail to support their work. Why help those that
compete with for the local business? It is onething if glass is a hobby and
another if its a living.

Craig

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From owner-glass Sat Oct 21 21:35:54 2000
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X-Path: aol.com!LByrne21
From: LByrne21@aol.com
To: Glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Stained Glass Retailers
Date: Sun, 22 Oct 2000 00:10:35 EDT
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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I, also, have been priviledged to meet Charles & Marianne Warner.  Their 
operation is
"FANTASTIC".  They are really nice folks, forever working to improve what 
they already have, and they DO listen to their  customers.... their sales and 
service is unbeatable.  That being said..... however...... they are located 
an hour's drive from my house, and I know that lots of you folks out there, 
have to travel long distances in many cases to make your stained glass 
purchases.  I am fortunate enough to have two smaller suppliers in my area.  
One is a Mom & Pop storefront, whom I am eternally greatful for, (they got me 
started in Stained Glass)...and, another  larger facility, (but, nothing like 
W-C)..... just 20 minutes away.   All big items are bought from W-C 
(grinders, cutters, soldering irons and other supplies (and there are many) 
that the locals do not carry).  Always attend "Glass Visions", and always 
take advantage of their sale items.   I buy  copper foil, zinc, brass,  
chemicals, and glass from the two local suppliers...no matter what the price 
(like to see the glass in person).  I feel there is room in this industry for 
everyone, if the attitude is right.  We're lucky to live in this county where 
the diversity in products and service is available, and, we can take 
advantage of it all.
                            Lavergne
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From owner-glass Sat Oct 21 21:38:39 2000
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From: James Garner <officerjqg@go.com>
To: Glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Subject: Mass Glass Transit
Date: Sat, 21 Oct 2000 16:52:58 -0700 (PDT)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Now that the holidays are approaching I would like to bring up the topic of moving glass.  When I go to shows I pack all my pieces into those large plastic tubs with lids.  I currently wrap all pieces individually with towles and stack them standing up from biggest to smallest.  I used cardboard to seperate the pieces before also.  Any way sometines I break a piece.  Does anyone use a method that would be better.  I wouls especially like to hear how people do non flat glas, Butterfyies, or pieces that are odd shaped.

Thanks
James

P.S. Gota lot of traffic on that ratail store thing huh...

James Garner
___________________________________________________
GO.com Mail                                    
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From owner-glass Sun Oct 22 06:31:46 2000
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X-Path: juno.com!tifstyorig
From: Diane W Manchester <tifstyorig@juno.com>
To: officerjqg@go.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: Re: Mass Glass Transit
Date: Sun, 22 Oct 2000 08:08:51 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

As for packing, I would not advise stacking in a box going from the
bottom up as this would create too much weight (pressure) on the bottom
pieces that could lead to cracks.  I would stack flat pieces "standing
up" - perhaps in a vertical expanding file, with plenty of padding.  This
way there would not be weight on any piece.  If items have uneven edges,
be sure there is plenty of padding to "float" the piece so there is no
weight on any one edge.  And try not to pack too much in any one box or
envelope.

Hint:  When I purchased a computer by Ebay, it came shipped in a box with
a foam lining.  This has been a great transport box for glass pieces,
particularly 3-D objects that stand.
________________________________________________________________
YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET!
Juno now offers FREE Internet Access!
Try it today - there's no risk!  For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
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From owner-glass Sun Oct 22 08:48:47 2000
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X-Path: aol.com!PookyPook
From: PookyPook@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: clocks
Date: Sun, 22 Oct 2000 11:31:00 EDT
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Does anyone know of a place to get clock works? I am trying to find a white 
face 4" in diameter.. all I can find is brass and at least 5". I also need a 
pendulum.... 

Ruth
pookypook@AOL.com
http://members.aol.com/RTSkeeter
http://members.aol.com/Alyeska222
ICQ11716411
"Ever stop to think and forget to start again?" 
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From owner-glass Sun Oct 22 09:01:26 2000
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X-Path: erols.com!stf
From: "Sharon T. Filetti" <stf@erols.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/enriched; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Plhila area great deal!
Date: Sun, 22 Oct 2000 09:50:52 -0400
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<color><param>0100,0100,0100</param>I still have about $6000. in various glass (size and kind) that I'll let 
go for $2000. <bold>OR will make an agreement if someone wants to 
use the glass and sell their peices and I share a percentage</bold>. 
I'll even teach or give knowlege I have as part of the deal. It's too 
much work to describe properly in type, and then properly package 
and send this so if you can come to West Chester, PA to come 
see it and are interested, please call Sharon at 610-429-0478.

<nofill>
--
Sharon T. Filetti
stf@erols.com
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From owner-glass Sun Oct 22 09:03:34 2000
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X-Path: glassgirl.com!jenny
From: "Jennifer S. Geldard" <jenny@glassgirl.com>
To: "James Garner" <officerjqg@go.com>, <Glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE: Mass Glass Transit
Date: Sun, 22 Oct 2000 08:40:26 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

A lot of my work is 3 dimensional, so I use foam peanuts to support
something like that. I also use foam sheets for flat pieces. The foam that
looks like egg cartons.
You can buy it through shipping suppliers. But I've found it's cheaper to
buy one of those foam mattress pads made for a bed, and cut it up into
usable pieces. I stack the glass between layers of that inside large plastic
containers for transport to shows.It's thick enough (2") that I don't need
cardboard too.
-Jen


from the desk of Jennifer S. Geldard
http://www.glassgirl.com

-----Original Message-----
From: James Garner [mailto:officerjqg@go.com]
Sent: Saturday, October 21, 2000 7:53 PM
To: Glass@bungi.com
Subject: Mass Glass Transit


Now that the holidays are approaching I would like to bring up the topic of
moving glass.  When I go to shows I pack all my pieces into those large
plastic tubs with lids.  I currently wrap all pieces individually with
towles and stack them standing up from biggest to smallest.  I used
cardboard to seperate the pieces before also.  Any way sometines I break a
piece.  Does anyone use a method that would be better.  I wouls especially
like to hear how people do non flat glas, Butterfyies, or pieces that are
odd shaped.

Thanks
James

P.S. Gota lot of traffic on that ratail store thing huh...

James Garner
___________________________________________________
GO.com Mail
Get Your Free, Private E-mail at http://mail.go.com

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From owner-glass Sun Oct 22 10:31:32 2000
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: James Garner <officerjqg@go.com>
Subject: Re: Mass Glass Transit
Date: Sun, 22 Oct 2000 09:00:43 +0100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk

James,
Lots of polystyrene chips in addition to your existing packing would
help.  Pressed down slightly, this will keep the pieces tight into the
main box.
Steve

In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, James Garner <officerjqg@go.com> writes
>Now that the holidays are approaching I would like to bring up the topic of 
>moving glass.  When I go to shows I pack all my pieces into those large plastic 
>tubs with lids.  I currently wrap all pieces individually with towles and stack 
>them standing up from biggest to smallest.  I used cardboard to seperate the 
>pieces before also.  Any way sometines I break a piece.  Does anyone use a 
>method that would be better.  I wouls especially like to hear how people do non 
>flat glas, Butterfyies, or pieces that are odd shaped.
>
>Thanks
>James
>
>P.S. Gota lot of traffic on that ratail store thing huh...
>
>James Garner
>___________________________________________________
>GO.com Mail                                    
>Get Your Free, Private E-mail at http://mail.go.com
>
>----
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-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Sun Oct 22 11:35:28 2000
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From: "benjamin springer" <outerborneo@hotmail.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
Subject: RE: clocks
Date: Sun, 22 Oct 2000 13:52:38 EDT
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Just Glass out of Burlington Wisconsin offers a 1 7/16" quartz clock. 
Whittemore-Durgin Glass Co. has a 4 1/2" aluminum clock face. Also check out 
www.rbdesigns.com/howee/dials_miscellaneous.html they have 4" painted clock 
faces. And there's a guy at www.clockdials.com that makes custom clock faces 
in many styles. I hope that helps you out
benj
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From owner-glass Sun Oct 22 12:05:24 2000
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X-Path: erols.com!stf
From: "Sharon T. Filetti" <stf@erols.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: correction to PHILA area great deal!
Date: Sun, 22 Oct 2000 13:00:40 -0400
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The phone number is 610-429-0578 not 0478.
--
Sharon T. Filetti
stf@erols.com
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From owner-glass Sun Oct 22 18:46:43 2000
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X-Path: hotmail.com!marybdaily
From: "Mary B" <marybdaily@hotmail.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
Subject: SG Purchases
Date: Sun, 22 Oct 2000 21:35:43 EDT
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

DITTO, Suzanne. I've been a lurker too long. I, also, have been extremely 
impressed with the service I've received from WC AND Delphi. Neither have 
hesitated to answer any question I've asked or given me any hassle about an 
inferior purchase. I think it is commendable for Marianne and Charles to 
open their entire business once each year for folks to come from miles 
around to enjoy the special pricing and camaraderie of other SG enthusiasts. 
My local SG supplier has been extremely greedy about pricing (although 
they're fine folks), but I also have a responsibility to "earn" a little 
money in my craft and must make good business decisions when buying my 
supplies. What an attitude... to attempt to shame SG artists who buy from 
the supplier of their choice.
_________________________________________________________________________
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From owner-glass Sun Oct 22 21:52:58 2000
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X-Path: airmail.net!jpe747
From: "Jowell L. Peden, Jr." <jpe747@airmail.net>
To: Mar333Wood@aol.com, "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: RBI saw
Date: Sun, 22 Oct 2000 23:15:22 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<18.37f6efc.2719aaf8@aol.com>>
Organization: Peden Unlimited
Precedence: bulk

Marti,
    Thankx for your imput on the RBI saw.  Since your letter, I've been thinking
and looking etc. at the options and today purchased the saw.  I have to admit I
am anxiously waiting delivery.  Again, thank you for your imput and I will try to
give the club an update on how I enjoy the saw.

Jowell
-------------------------------------------------------------------

Mar333Wood@aol.com wrote:

> Hi
> In answer to your question about the RBI Scroll Saw, I have one and love it.
> It's an overkill in doing glass but cuts like a dream. The blades only cost
> about $18 and seem to last forever. I have Gry. band saw, one of the first to
> come out and hate it. The blades cost over $100 ea and seem to break  often.
> BTW, I still have the band saw with two extra blades it you know of anyone
> who wants one.
>
> The RBI is much more expensive but for me, it was worth it.
>
> Have a good day,
>
> Marti
>
> Enjoy the beauty of stained glass at:
> http://members.aol.com/Mar333Wood/WOODMAR.html
>  <A HREF="http://www.kcag.net/Artist/Marti_Woodward/index.htm">Marti Woodward
> </A>

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From owner-glass Mon Oct 23 10:37:42 2000
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From: ARTIZ01@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: About Classes
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 12:39:48 EDT
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Help Bungions,

Any help that you can give me concerning classes would be greatly appreciated.
Tools?
Patterns?
Extra Insurance?
Setting up the studio?


Also how much would you sell glass scraps by the pound?
Thanks so much for your help
Marie
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From owner-glass Mon Oct 23 11:20:53 2000
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X-Path: stratus.com!Charlie_Spitzer
From: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie_Spitzer@stratus.com>
To: "'PookyPook@aol.com'" <PookyPook@aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE: clocks
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 10:59:09 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

you might try doing a search on http://www.rocker.com which is a woodworking
place. this http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/findprod.cfm?&DID=6&sku=4951 might
be what you're looking for. this page is the movement. you can buy the faces
and hands separately.

regards,
charlie
phx, az

> -----Original Message-----
> From: PookyPook@aol.com [mailto:PookyPook@aol.com]
> Sent: Sunday, October 22, 2000 8:31 AM
> To: glass@bungi.com
> Subject: clocks
> 
> 
> Does anyone know of a place to get clock works? I am trying 
> to find a white 
> face 4" in diameter.. all I can find is brass and at least 
> 5". I also need a 
> pendulum.... 
> 
> Ruth
> pookypook@AOL.com
> http://members.aol.com/RTSkeeter
> http://members.aol.com/Alyeska222
> ICQ11716411
> "Ever stop to think and forget to start again?" 
> ----
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> 
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From owner-glass Mon Oct 23 12:00:18 2000
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From: Skip Hodge <shodge@gdi.net>
To: Glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Store Info
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 14:17:38 -0400
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Hello Bungians

I am putting together a little booklet for myself of all the S.G.
Studios I can find.

Please send me your studio name, address, phone number and e-mail addy.
Also a brief description of what it is that you do, ie: custom work,
teach, sell supplies etc.

Thanks
Skip
Southern Exposure Stained Glass Supply, Inc.
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Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 22:18:08 EDT
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lost everything when hard drive went.  now that repairs are done i no longer 
get any main from anyone.  dont even know if this is the correct address.  
help :-) thanks in advance
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From: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@ix.netcom.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Non Glass but good
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 22:50:25 -0500
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On Tuesday, October 24, the NFL's Breast Cancer Awareness Day, the NFL
will donate $5 for every person that:  - logs onto NFL.com - then clicks
on "NFL For Her" (left hand column). They will donate up to $50,000 to the
Susan G Komen Breast Cancer Foundation.

> <A HREF="http://www.nfl.com/nflforher/">Click here: NFL.com: NFL For
Her</A>
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From owner-glass Tue Oct 24 03:56:56 2000
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Subject: Stained Glass Designer Invitation
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 21:22:32
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<table border="4" cellpadding="2">
    <tr>
    <td align="center">
      <p align="center"><b><a href="http://www.crafting-patterns.com" target="_top"><font face="Arial" size="2" color="#990000">Crafting-Patterns.com</font></a></b></p>
    </td>
    <td align="center" bgcolor="#ECDA5E"><a href="http://www.stainedglass-patterns.com/cgi-bin/myshop/myshop.cgi"><b><font face="Arial" size="2">Patter</font></b><font face="Arial" size="2"><b>ns</b></font></a><font face="Arial" size="1"><br>
      &amp; more</font></td>
    <td align="center" bgcolor="#ECDA5E"><a href="http://www.stainedglass-patterns.com/agree.html"><b><font face="Arial" size="2">Agreement</font></b></a></td>
    <td align="center" bgcolor="#ECDA5E"><font face="Arial" size="1">Sign up
      for: </font><a href="http://www.stainedglass-patterns.com/subscribe.html"><b><font face="Arial" size="2">Updates</font></b></a></td>
    <td align="center" bgcolor="#ECDA5E" rowspan="2"><a href="http://www.stainedglass-patterns.com/FAQ.html"><b><font size="2" face="Arial">FAQ
      &amp; Help<br>
      Hints &amp;Tips</font></b></a></td>
    <td align="center" bgcolor="#ECDA5E"><a href="mailto:Webmaster@stainedglass-patterns.com" target="_parent"><b><font face="Arial" size="2">Email
      Us</font></b></a></td>
    <td align="center" bgcolor="#ECDA5E"><font size="1" face="Arial">Information
      to:</font> <a href="http://www.stainedglass-patterns.com/Submitinfo.html"><b><font face="Arial" size="2">Submit
      items</font></b></a></td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
    <td align="center"><i><b><a href="http://www.stainedglass-patterns.com"><font face="Arial" color="#0000CC" size="2">StainedGlass-Patterns.com</font></a></b></i></td>
    <td align="center" bgcolor="#ECDA5E"><a href="http://www.stainedglass-patterns.com/cgi-bin/myshop/myshop.cgi?search=yes&amp;method=price&amp;keywords=0.00"><b><font size="2" face="Arial">FREE</font></b></a><b><font size="2" face="Arial" color="#0000FF">
      </font></b><font face="Arial" size="1">Items</font></td>
    <td align="center" bgcolor="#ECDA5E"><font face="Arial" size="1">View our</font><b><font face="Arial" size="2" color="#990000">
      </font><a href="http://www.stainedglass-patterns.com/cgi-bin/gallery/gallery.cgi"><font size="2" face="Arial">Gallery</font></a><font size="2" face="Arial">&nbsp;</font></b></td>
    <td align="center" bgcolor="#ECDA5E"><a href="http://www.adobe.com/products/acrobat/readstep.html" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://www.stainedglass-patterns.com/images/getacro.gif"></a></td>
    <td align="center" bgcolor="#ECDA5E"><font face="Arial" size="1">Our PDF </font><a href="http://www.stainedglass-patterns.com/books.html"><b><font face="Arial" size="2">Books</font></b></a></td>
    <td align="center" bgcolor="#ECDA5E"><font face="Arial" size="1">Information
      to:</font><b><font face="Arial" size="2" color="#990000"> </font><a href="http://www.stainedglass-patterns.com/gallery.html"><font face="Arial" size="2">Add
      Gallery Items</font></a></b></td>
    </tr>
  </table>
<p><font face="Arial" size="2">You are invited to list your Stained Glass
patterns, instructions, hints &amp; tips, etc with us at: </font><i><b><a href="http://www.stainedglass-patterns.com"><font face="Arial" color="#0000CC" size="2">StainedGlass-Patterns.com</font></a></b></i></p>
<p><font face="Arial" size="2">Our goal is to unite Original Designers and Stained Glass
workers together in an easy convenient location.&nbsp; Quality, service and
convenience are our main objectives.&nbsp; We also would like to have
information for Beginners available on our site.</font></p>
<p><font face="Arial" size="2">Our first site: <a href="http://www.bead-patterns.com">http://www.bead-patterns.com</a>
has been a huge success.&nbsp; We have the same plans for our Stained Glass
site.&nbsp; We promote the selling of your designs.&nbsp; Our fee is 35% of the
sale price of an item.&nbsp; We advertise &amp; promote via the internet &amp;
magazine advertisements.&nbsp; At our site we accept Credit Cards and echecks.&nbsp;</font>
</p>
<p><font face="Arial" size="2">Because bead-patterns.com has a history these are the numbers we can provide
for you.&nbsp; We do expect our other sites to do at least as well as the first.</font></p>
<p align="center"><font face="Arial" size="2"><b>Daily average: 500+ unique visitors a day<br>Sales: Over 500 items sold in October<br>FREE: Over 12,000 FREE items accessed in October.<br></b></font></p>
<p><font face="Arial" size="2">You retain all legal rights to your designs.&nbsp; You set your own
prices.&nbsp; We provide you with a link so you can check your sales for the
current month along with the previous months sales.&nbsp;</font></p>
<p><font face="Arial" size="2">Many questions are answered by reading: </font><font size="1" face="Arial">Information
      to:</font> <a href="http://www.stainedglass-patterns.com/Submitinfo.html"><b><font face="Arial" size="2">Submit
      items</font></b></a><font face="Arial" size="2"><b>&nbsp; *</b>you will
need Acrobat Reader 4.0 to view/print this information.</font></p>
<p>Please contact any of our designers for their feedback on us: <b><a href="http://www.crafting-patterns.com" target="_top"><font face="Arial" size="2" color="#990000">Crafting-Patterns.com</font></a></b></p>
<p><font face="Arial" size="2">Contact us for any questions: </font><b><font face="Arial" size="2" color="#990000">
<a href="mailto:webmaster@stainedglass-patterns.com">mailto:webmaster@stainedglass-patterns.com</a></font></b></p>
<p align="center"><b><font face="Arial" size="2" color="#990000">For future
emails/information please sign up at: </font></b><a href="http://www.stainedglass-patterns.com/subscribe.html"><b><font face="Arial" size="2">Updates</font></b></a><b><font face="Arial" size="2">&nbsp;&nbsp;</font></b></p>
<p align="center"><b><font face="Arial" size="2">If you do not wish to subscribe
- you don't need to do anything.</font></b></p>
<div align="center">
  <center>
  <table border="4" cellpadding="2">
    <tr>
      <td align="center" height="15">
        <p align="center"><b><a href="http://www.crafting-patterns.com" target="_top"><font face="Arial" size="2" color="#990000">Crafting-Patterns.com</font></a></b></p>
      </td>
      <td align="center" bgcolor="#ECDA5E" height="29"><i><b><a href="http://www.bead-patterns.com"><font face="Arial" color="#0000CC" size="2">Beading</font></a></b></i></td>
      <td align="center" bgcolor="#ECDA5E" height="29"><i><b><a href="http://www.crocheting-patterns.com"><font face="Arial" color="#0000CC" size="2">Crocheting</font></a></b></i></td>
      <td align="center" bgcolor="#ECDA5E" height="29"><i><b><a href="http://www.stainedglass-patterns.com"><font face="Arial" color="#0000CC" size="2">Stained
        Glass</font></a></b></i></td>
      <td align="center" bgcolor="#ECDA5E" height="29"><i><b><a href="http://www.xstitch-patterns.com"><font face="Arial" size="2" color="#0000CC">Cross
        Stitch</font></a></b></i></td>
      <td align="center" bgcolor="#ECDA5E" height="29"><a href="mailto:Webmaster@crafting-patterns.com" target="_parent"><font face="Arial" color="#990000" size="2"><b><i>Send
        Email</i></b></font></a></td>
    </tr>
  </table>
  </center>
</div>

<p align="center">&nbsp;</p>
*************************************
 
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From owner-glass Tue Oct 24 10:38:20 2000
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From: GlassByDes@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="part1_5d.24b59e8.27271bcf_boundary"
Subject: Fwd: SG Stores
Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 13:07:27 EDT
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Glass By Design, Inc.
Sorry about that. My name is.
Bob Martinez

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Date: Sat, 21 Oct 2000 14:02:26 -0500
From: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@ix.netcom.com>
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No offense intended, but do your customers know your names?

I dont understand why you dont sign your name, Ive made some very good
friends here in the last couple of years, but not by signing my name...

Glassdancer or
Blackwells' employee  
etc

We could meet you somewhere and not even know that we've talked to you
before.

Suzanne
AKA
glassdancer
Tulsa Suzanne
etc... ;o)

GlassByDes@aol.com wrote:
> 
> My final comments. Yes, Marianne is a great person, which to add we have
> purchase castings and several items from her in the past. My main point is
> yes price and service are important concerns. You have the right to walk 
into
> a SG retailer and expect completive prices and service. If you live in an
> area far away from a retailer then you have no choice. If your local 
retailer
> is not competitive then shame on him. It is his loss. Glass selection is
> important. The Internet mail order selling is a small portion of our
> business. But it has also brought a lot of local and world travelers who 
look
> for stores in the Fort Lauderdale area. As for a customer base, we have no
> problem with this being in a metro are over 5 million.  Happy cutting.
> 
> Glass By Design, Inc.
> ----
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From owner-glass Tue Oct 24 14:34:00 2000
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X-Path: home.com!esavad
From: "Mike Savad" <esavad@home.com>
To: <SGriffiSBG@aol.com>,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE: e-mail
Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 17:16:12 -0400
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yep i got it ok.


---Mike Savad


Mike's Stained Glass - Tips Tricks Photos
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
4-6-2000 New Pages Added: 1 new tip page: Help buying stained glass, updated
info on the about me page, and 3 window set's for skycity. Including lot's
of new links, and more FREE PATTERN links.



-----Original Message-----
From: SGriffiSBG@aol.com [mailto:SGriffiSBG@aol.com]
Sent: Monday, October 23, 2000 10:18 PM
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: e-mail


lost everything when hard drive went.  now that repairs are done i no longer
get any main from anyone.  dont even know if this is the correct address.
help :-) thanks in advance
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From owner-glass Tue Oct 24 15:02:43 2000
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From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Glass scraps by the pound
Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 16:32:26 -0400
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Message text written by INTERNET:ARTIZ01@aol.com
>Also how much would you sell glass scraps by the pound?
Thanks so much for your help
Marie<

A friend of mine who owns a retail store has annual glass scrap
sales.  She sells them for $.75 per pound.

Christie A. Wood
North Wales, PA USA
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From: "Peggy W. Johnsen" <edupjohn@slonet.org>
To: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@ix.netcom.com>
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Non Glass but good
Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 14:57:24 -0700 (PDT)
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Hi Suzanne:  Thanks for the heads up on the NFL.com site.  I did log on
and click on NFL for Her.  If that was enough then I will be proud they
donate $5 to breast cancer research.  If I should have done something
else, let me know.  Peggy

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From owner-glass Tue Oct 24 15:47:30 2000
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From: Wskyrnr21@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: insurance
Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 18:09:11 EDT
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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What happens to crates of glass damaged in shipping.  As a consumer or 
recipient of damaged shipment who is responsible the carrier or manufacturer?
What is my recourse?
Thanks Kevin
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From owner-glass Tue Oct 24 16:01:50 2000
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From: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@ix.netcom.com>
To: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
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Subject: Re: Glass scraps by the pound
Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 17:12:01 -0500
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We sell scrap for $2.00 a pound.

Suzanne

"Christie A. Wood" wrote:
> 
> Message text written by INTERNET:ARTIZ01@aol.com
> >Also how much would you sell glass scraps by the pound?
> Thanks so much for your help
> Marie<
> 
> A friend of mine who owns a retail store has annual glass scrap
> sales.  She sells them for $.75 per pound.
> 
> Christie A. Wood
> North Wales, PA USA
> ----
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From owner-glass Tue Oct 24 17:02:15 2000
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Subject: Fwd: insurance
Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 19:05:11 EDT
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It is my understanding that UPS will insure no glass over 12 x 12. If your 
shipment was with UPS the original package must be ava for inspection. If it 
was a truck shipment it is with the carrier. Most sellers of glass put a 
notice in their package on how to file a claim. If not call them for advise 
on how to file the claim with the carrier if their was insurance.
Bob M
Glass By Design

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From: Wskyrnr21@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: insurance
Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 18:09:11 EDT
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk
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What happens to crates of glass damaged in shipping.  As a consumer or 
recipient of damaged shipment who is responsible the carrier or manufacturer?
What is my recourse?
Thanks Kevin
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From owner-glass Tue Oct 24 22:51:39 2000
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From: irene2go@desertmail.com
To: <undiclsed5@att.net>
Content-Type: text/html;
Subject: Your Sexual Health
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 04:21:07 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

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00 S/H. </B><BR>
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=3D"0">Call   954-974-9903</FONT><FONT  COLOR=3D"#000000" BACK=3D"#ffffff"=
 style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=3D2 PTSIZE=3D10 FAMILY=3D"SANSSE=
RIF" FACE=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0"><BR>
  </FONT><FONT  COLOR=3D"#000000" BACK=3D"#ffffff" style=3D"BACKGROUND-COL=
OR: #ffffff" SIZE=3D3 PTSIZE=3D12 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Arial" LANG=
=3D"0">   </FONT><FONT  COLOR=3D"#ff0000" BACK=3D"#ffffff" style=3D"BACKGR=
OUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=3D3 PTSIZE=3D12 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Ari=
al" LANG=3D"0">LibidoMagic</FONT><FONT  COLOR=3D"#000000" BACK=3D"#ffffff"=
 style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=3D3 PTSIZE=3D12 FAMILY=3D"SANSSE=
RIF" FACE=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0">!</FONT><FONT  COLOR=3D"#000000" BACK=3D"#f=
fffff" style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=3D2 PTSIZE=3D10 FAMILY=3D"=
SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0">   <BR>
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  and mail to:<BR>
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  <BR>
  </FONT><FONT  COLOR=3D"#000000" BACK=3D"#ffffff" style=3D"BACKGROUND-COL=
OR: #ffffff" SIZE=3D1 PTSIZE=3D8 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Arial" LANG=3D=
"0">We   do wait until personal checks clear our bank, before mailing your=
 order<BR>
  For Fax Orders, please print and fax the following to:<BR>
  </FONT><FONT  COLOR=3D"#000000" BACK=3D"#ffffff" style=3D"BACKGROUND-COL=
OR: #ffffff" SIZE=3D3 PTSIZE=3D12 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Arial" LANG=
=3D"0">310-358-7317</FONT><FONT  COLOR=3D"#000000" BACK=3D"#ffffff" style=3D=
"BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=3D2 PTSIZE=3D10 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=
=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0"></B><BR>
  </FONT><FONT  COLOR=3D"#000000" BACK=3D"#ffffff" style=3D"BACKGROUND-COL=
OR: #ffffff" SIZE=3D2 PTSIZE=3D9 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Arial" LANG=3D=
"0">Name_________________________________________________<BR>
  <BR>
  Address_______________________________________________<BR>
  <BR>
  City_______________________State_______Zip______________<BR>
  <BR>
  Phone#__________________Email Address__________________<BR>
  <BR>
  CreditCard____________________________MC/ V/ Amex<BR>
  <BR>
  Card Number___________________________________________<BR>
  <BR>
  Expiration Date_______________<BR>
  <BR>
  I wish to order_____Bottle(s) </FONT><FONT  COLOR=3D"#000000" BACK=3D"#f=
fffff" style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=3D2 PTSIZE=3D10 FAMILY=3D"=
SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0">   <BR>
  <BR>
  Signature____________________________Date___________<BR>
  <BR>
  </FONT><FONT  COLOR=3D"#000000" BACK=3D"#ffffff" style=3D"BACKGROUND-COL=
OR: #ffffff" SIZE=3D1 PTSIZE=3D8 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Arial" LANG=3D=
"0">To be remove send message to sender with only remove in subject line.<=
/FONT><FONT  COLOR=3D"#000000" BACK=3D"#ffffff" style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR:=
 #ffffff" SIZE=3D2 PTSIZE=3D10 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Arial" LANG=3D=
"0"><BR>
  <BR>
  <BR>
  <BR>
  <BR>
  <BR>
  </P></FONT></HTML>



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From owner-glass Wed Oct 25 00:55:35 2000
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X-Path: ix.netcom.com!gunnx4
From: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@ix.netcom.com>
To: GlassByDes@aol.com, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=x-user-defined
Subject: Re: Fwd: SG Stores
Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 15:23:03 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Nice to meet you, Bob! :o)

Suzanne

GlassByDes@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Glass By Design, Inc.
> Sorry about that. My name is.
> Bob Martinez
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From owner-glass Wed Oct 25 08:33:46 2000
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From: HILLHD1@aol.com
To: Wskyrnr21@aol.com, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: insurance
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 10:47:40 EDT
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

In regard to buying mail order glass..the 2 I have gotten from are just great 
Delphi & Glass crafters both replaced without hesitation. Still yet to order 
from Warners. as a hobbiest, the 2 local stores are pretty good but still 
always need to watch the budget like everyone else. Sometimes the locals are 
so expensive--like 50% higher than ordering even.  Karlene from wisconsin
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From owner-glass Wed Oct 25 11:04:41 2000
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X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: "INTERNET:chelms@accmail.umd.edu" <chelms@accmail.umd.edu>,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Looking for glass artists....
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 10:59:03 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Fellow Bungians,

I was unsuccessful in finding these three artists in the IGGA database.
If anyone has any information about them, would you please reply
to the message's originator at  chelms@accmail.umd.edu
Thanks!

Christie A. Wood - IGGA Exec. Director
North Wales, PA USA
-------------------------------------------
Message text written by INTERNET:chelms@accmail.umd.edu
>I'm looking for imformation on three glass artists, and was hoping you
could help.
They are Richard Jolley, Michael Graves and Hilton McConnico.

Thank you.<
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From owner-glass Wed Oct 25 12:34:02 2000
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X-Path: stratus.com!Charlie_Spitzer
From: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie_Spitzer@stratus.com>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Prescott AZ event
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 10:59:15 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

>    Antonius Glass Studios is  participating in the Third Annual Open
>Studio and Sale on November 18th &  19th and November 25th & 26th 2000,
>10:00a.m. to 4:00p.m..   Glassblowing Demos on all days.  Gaffers: Jim
>Antonius,  Nathan Macomber, John Lutes, Dave Klein and William Dabney
>(apprentice  glassblower, 12 yrs. old). Call for directions or other
>information. Jim Antonius, 2118 Old Kettle Drive, Prescott, Az. 86305
>Studio: 520 445-0905 

Antonius is the founder of a (the only?) school in AZ that offers a fully
accredited BA degree in glass works.

regards,
charlie
phx, az
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From owner-glass Wed Oct 25 15:54:46 2000
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X-Path: waterw.com!artglass
From: "pjfriend" <artglass@waterw.com>
To: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie_Spitzer@stratus.com>, <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: Prescott AZ event
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 16:32:49 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Do you happen to know what that school is?  And if the degree in Fine Arts
with a concentration in  glass?  And do you know if it is only hot glass
("which it probably is because all the big buck collectors put their money
behind their artists......unlike us working in flat glass....which is the
poor child of the glass arts".....she says smiling)


The SGAA is working with Flagler College in Florida on their "Glass Degree"
which will be a BA of Fine Arts with a concentration in Stained Glass.

I would love to see that 12 year old blow glass.  That would be worth the
visit alone.

my best,
pj


Paul Friend Architectural Glass & Design, Inc.
www.waterw.com/~artglass
Accredited Studio Member of the Stained Glass Association of America
Member International Guild of Glass Artists
Associate Member AIA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie_Spitzer@stratus.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 25, 2000 1:59 PM
Subject: Prescott AZ event


> >    Antonius Glass Studios is  participating in the Third Annual Open
> >Studio and Sale on November 18th &  19th and November 25th & 26th 2000,
> >10:00a.m. to 4:00p.m..   Glassblowing Demos on all days.  Gaffers: Jim
> >Antonius,  Nathan Macomber, John Lutes, Dave Klein and William Dabney
> >(apprentice  glassblower, 12 yrs. old). Call for directions or other
> >information. Jim Antonius, 2118 Old Kettle Drive, Prescott, Az. 86305
> >Studio: 520 445-0905
>
> Antonius is the founder of a (the only?) school in AZ that offers a fully
> accredited BA degree in glass works.
>
> regards,
> charlie
> phx, az
> ----
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From owner-glass Thu Oct 26 08:03:23 2000
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From: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@ix.netcom.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=x-user-defined
Subject: Non Glass but good
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 22:50:25 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

On Tuesday, October 24, the NFL's Breast Cancer Awareness Day, the NFL
will donate $5 for every person that:  - logs onto NFL.com - then clicks
on "NFL For Her" (left hand column). They will donate up to $50,000 to the
Susan G Komen Breast Cancer Foundation.

> <A HREF="http://www.nfl.com/nflforher/">Click here: NFL.com: NFL For
Her</A>
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From owner-glass Fri Oct 27 09:18:50 2000
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From: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie_Spitzer@stratus.com>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Cave Creek/Carefree AZ event
Date: Fri, 27 Oct 2000 08:55:52 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

We will be tied up with the Sonoran Arts League's FOURTH ANNUAL
Hidden in the Hills Studio Tour, which as many of you know, takes place
November 18th & 19th and November 25th & 26th 2000, Friday, Saturday and
Sunday, 10 a.m..- 5 p.m.  Over 30 studios in the Cave Creek/Carefree Desert
Foothills with 96 artists participating.  Last year we saw over 1,000
visitors come through Laughing Glass Studio.  Maps and Artist Directories
are available here - Hope to see some of you soon!

Carole Perry
Laughing Glass Studio
4944 E. Sawmill Circle
Cave Creek, AZ 85331
phone: (480) 488-6070  fax: (480) 488-6062

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From owner-glass Fri Oct 27 09:52:33 2000
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X-Path: aol.com!ARTIZ01
From: ARTIZ01@aol.com
To: GLASS@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: NEED A TREE PATTERN
Date: Fri, 27 Oct 2000 12:30:51 EDT
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

HELLO,
DOES ANYONE HAVE A PATTERN FOR AN ASH TREE AND A LAUREL TREE?
THANKS
BUNNY
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From owner-glass Fri Oct 27 11:25:42 2000
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From: ARTIZ01@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: new to kiln
Date: Fri, 27 Oct 2000 14:03:32 EDT
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Help   I just purchased a Pinto Kiln, It did not have any directions.  I have 
never used a kiln before.  I need to paint faces for a stained glass piece I 
am doing.  I have Fuse Master lead free paints to use with Fuse Master Water 
Friendly Medium. Do I need a tracing black for outlining?  Can you tell me 
what my first to last step is?  I would appreciate any help.
Thanks
Bunny
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From owner-glass Sun Oct 29 12:58:16 2000
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From: Tim Byrnes <tbyrnes@iconn.net>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Seal Pattern
Date: Sun, 29 Oct 2000 12:09:38 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Greetings,
Can anyone tell which issue of Glass Patterns Quarterly, had a pattern
of a Seal showing his reflection in the water. I remember seeing it in
glass patterns, but can't seem to find it among my patterns.

Peace,
Tim

--


 Live easy, but think first.

 -- anonymous


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From owner-glass Sun Oct 29 13:00:23 2000
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X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: NZ Stained glass artist and tutor looking to move to the UK
Date: Sun, 29 Oct 2000 14:02:23 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

...from a fellow glass artist in New Zealand.

Christie A. Wood
North Wales, PA USA
-------------Forwarded Message-----------------
From:	"vaughan.stott@xtra.co.nz", INTERNET:vaughan.stott@xtra.co.nz
Date:	10/27/2000  6:17 PM
RE:	NZ Stained glass artist and tutor looking to move to the UK

My name is Rose Stott from Cambridge NEW ZEALAND and I am looking at movi=
ng =

to the UK to Live and work, I am a fully trained Stained Glass Artist wit=
h =

more than 15 years experience  as well as 5 years Tutoring Experience and=
 =

would be interested in any stained glass related work, in and around The =

UK.
contact info

rose.stott@xtra.co.nz
contact ph 0064 78277195
or             0064256085907
thanks

Rose Stott=
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From owner-glass Sun Oct 29 14:30:41 2000
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X-Path: juno.com!aglassworks
From: aglassworks@juno.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: Looking for a pattern
Date: Sun, 29 Oct 2000 13:39:23 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Does anyone have a suncatcher pattern for Blue Bonnets?  I've been asked
to make one and am not having any luck finding a pattern.

Thanks.
Angie
________________________________________________________________
YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET!
Juno now offers FREE Internet Access!
Try it today - there's no risk!  For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
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From owner-glass Mon Oct 30 01:02:44 2000
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From: "D. ONeal" <Moya-Don@worldnet.att.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re:  Looking for a Pattern
Date: Mon, 30 Oct 2000 00:17:12 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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If you look in the pattern book STATE BIRDS AND FLOWERS by Carolyn Kyle, you
should find a nice pattern of Blue Bonnets listed under Texas (it is their
state flower.)
Hope this helps,
Moya

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From owner-glass Mon Oct 30 17:04:56 2000
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X-Path: aol.com!PookyPook
From: PookyPook@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Glass pen
Date: Mon, 30 Oct 2000 19:19:23 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Is there a permanent glass pen on the market? I need to draw some fine lines 
and my hands are a tad to shakey to use paint and a thin paintbrush. 

Also, how big a piece of glass would you consider "safe" before worrying 
about breakage. I am talking about suncatchers. Is there some sort of rule of 
thumb, or is it just up to the individual? 

Thanks in advance....

Ruth
pookypook@AOL.com
http://members.aol.com/RTSkeeter
http://members.aol.com/Alyeska222
ICQ11716411
"Ever stop to think and forget to start again?" 
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From owner-glass Mon Oct 30 19:21:34 2000
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X-Path: home.com!esavad
From: "Mike Savad" <esavad@home.com>
To: <PookyPook@aol.com>,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE: Glass pen
Date: Mon, 30 Oct 2000 22:06:46 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

the sanford paint pens work real well.

big is only relevant to what kind of cuts you make in it. if it's a bandsaw
cut, then it may break real early. there is real no safe size...


---Mike Savad


Mike's Stained Glass - Tips Tricks Photos
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
4-6-2000 New Pages Added: 1 new tip page: Help buying stained glass, updated
info on the about me page, and 3 window set's for skycity. Including lot's
of new links, and more FREE PATTERN links.



> -----Original Message-----
> From: PookyPook@aol.com [mailto:PookyPook@aol.com]
> Sent: Monday, October 30, 2000 7:19 PM
> To: glass@bungi.com
> Subject: Glass pen
>
>
> Is there a permanent glass pen on the market? I need to draw some
> fine lines
> and my hands are a tad to shakey to use paint and a thin paintbrush.
>
> Also, how big a piece of glass would you consider "safe" before worrying
> about breakage. I am talking about suncatchers. Is there some
> sort of rule of
> thumb, or is it just up to the individual?
>
> Thanks in advance....
>
> Ruth
> pookypook@AOL.com
> http://members.aol.com/RTSkeeter
> http://members.aol.com/Alyeska222
> ICQ11716411
> "Ever stop to think and forget to start again?"
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>

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From owner-glass Tue Oct 31 06:19:21 2000
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From: PookyPook@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1"
Subject: Re: Glass pen
Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2000 09:04:16 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

In a message dated 10/31/00 3:07:53 AM !!!First Boot!!!, esavad@home.com=20
writes:


> big is only relevant to what kind of cuts you make in it. if it's a bandsa=
w
> cut, then it may break real early. there is real no safe size...
>=20
>=20
>=20

Okay, Mike.. can you explain this a little further? Why will a bandsaw cut=20
break easier? I am using the Gemini saw with these. =A0I haven't heard of th=
ese=20
cuts being more prone to breakage.



Ruth
pookypook@AOL.com
http://members.aol.com/RTSkeeter
http://members.aol.com/Alyeska222
ICQ11716411
"Ever stop to think and forget to start again?"=20
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From owner-glass Tue Oct 31 11:03:30 2000
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X-Path: stratus.com!Charlie_Spitzer
From: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie_Spitzer@stratus.com>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE: saw cuts breaking
Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2000 10:34:54 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

mike is referring not to the fact that all saw cuts will break, but to the
fact that saw cuts allow you to make pieces that inherently weak. cuts like
a 90 degree angle cut, or very deep inside cuts, or very thin pieces with
cuts near the edge are weak and any stress at all will cause them to break,
usually somewhere in the middle of your already completed piece. these types
of cuts are very hard to do by hand cutting.

regards,
charlie
phx, az

> -----Original Message-----
> From: PookyPook@aol.com [mailto:PookyPook@aol.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, October 31, 2000 7:04 AM
> To: glass@bungi.com
> Subject: Re: Glass pen
> 
> 
> In a message dated 10/31/00 3:07:53 AM !!!First Boot!!!, 
> esavad@home.com=20
> writes:
> 
> 
> > big is only relevant to what kind of cuts you make in it. 
> if it's a bandsa=
> w
> > cut, then it may break real early. there is real no safe size...
> 
> Okay, Mike.. can you explain this a little further? Why will 
> a bandsaw cut=20
> break easier? I am using the Gemini saw with these. =A0I 
> haven't heard of th=
> ese=20
> cuts being more prone to breakage.
 
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From owner-glass Tue Oct 31 11:41:19 2000
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X-Path: email.msn.com!brown_gregory
From: "brown_gregory" <brown_gregory@email.msn.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Glass pen
Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2000 09:35:41 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Snip
>Okay, Mike.. can you explain this a little further? Why will a bandsaw
cut=20
break easier? I am using the Gemini saw with these. =A0I haven't heard of
th=
ese=20
cuts being more prone to breakage.>

Here we go again :o)
If the shape can't be cut by a hand glass cutter, then it should not be cut
with a saw.

Greg
Glass By Design



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From owner-glass Tue Oct 31 18:31:27 2000
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: PookyPook@aol.com
Subject: Re: Glass pen
Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2000 21:15:25 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk

If you can't cut the curve with a normal glass cutter, the curve is
likely to be so tight that it makes a weakness in the glass due to the
stresses put on it in use.

Steve

In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, PookyPook@aol.com writes
>In a message dated 10/31/00 3:07:53 AM !!!First Boot!!!, esavad@home.com=20
>writes:
>
>
>> big is only relevant to what kind of cuts you make in it. if it's a bandsa=
>w
>> cut, then it may break real early. there is real no safe size...
>>=20
>>=20
>>=20
>
>Okay, Mike.. can you explain this a little further? Why will a bandsaw cut=20
>break easier? I am using the Gemini saw with these. =A0I haven't heard of th=
>ese=20
>cuts being more prone to breakage.
>
>
>
>Ruth
>pookypook@AOL.com
>http://members.aol.com/RTSkeeter
>http://members.aol.com/Alyeska222
>ICQ11716411
>"Ever stop to think and forget to start again?"=20
>----
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>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Tue Oct 31 19:30:52 2000
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From: PookyPook@aol.com
To: Charlie_Spitzer@stratus.com, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_c.c9c7044.2730d1d6_boundary"
Subject: Re: saw cuts breaking
Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2000 20:54:30 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk


--part1_c.c9c7044.2730d1d6_boundary
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In a message dated 10/31/00 7:07:40 PM !!!First Boot!!!, 
Charlie_Spitzer@stratus.com writes:


> that saw cuts allow you to make pieces that inherently weak. cuts like
> a 90 degree angle cut, or very deep inside cuts, or very thin pieces with
> cuts near the edge are weak and any stress at all will cause them to break,
> usually somewhere in the middle of your already completed piece. these types
> of cuts are very hard to do by hand cutting.
> 
> 

Unfortunately, I learned that little lesson the hard way! I must apologyze if 
I have stirred up a past topic, but no one versed me in the do's and don'ts 
of saw-cuttings so this is new, vital info for me. I really do appreciate the 
answers so far. All makes perfect sense... Thanks, again!

Ruth
pookypook@AOL.com
http://members.aol.com/RTSkeeter
http://members.aol.com/Alyeska222
ICQ11716411
"Ever stop to think and forget to start again?" 

--part1_c.c9c7044.2730d1d6_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
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<HTML><FONT  SIZE=3>In a message dated 10/31/00 7:07:40 PM !!!First Boot!!!, <BR>Charlie_Spitzer@stratus.com writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">that saw cuts allow you to make pieces that inherently weak. cuts like
<BR>a 90 degree angle cut, or very deep inside cuts, or very thin pieces with
<BR>cuts near the edge are weak and any stress at all will cause them to break,
<BR>usually somewhere in the middle of your already completed piece. these types
<BR>of cuts are very hard to do by hand cutting.
<BR>
<BR></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR>Unfortunately, I learned that little lesson the hard way! I must apologyze if <BR>I have stirred up a past topic, but no one versed me in the do's and don'ts <BR>of saw-cuttings so this is new, vital info for me. I really do appreciate the <BR>answers so far. All makes perfect sense... Thanks, again!
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">Ruth
<BR>pookypook@AOL.com
<BR>http://members.aol.com/RTSkeeter
<BR>http://members.aol.com/Alyeska222
<BR>ICQ11716411
<BR>"Ever stop to think and forget to start again?"</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"> </FONT></HTML>

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