From owner-glass Fri Sep 1 08:02:28 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 1 Sep 2000 07:58:33 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #428 built 2000-Sep-1) X-Path: thezone.net!robertcrane From: "Robert Crane" To: Content-Type: multipart/alternative; Subject: help with a chemical Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2000 12:32:58 -0230 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C01410.C2D8E340 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I am doing a restoration job using copper came. All of the other copper = in the window is black, the new copper sticks out like a sore thumb. = Doea anyone know of a chemical which I can put on the copper to turn it = black? Thanks in anticipation. ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C01410.C2D8E340 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I am doing a restoration job using = copper came. All=20 of the other copper in the window is black, the new copper sticks out = like a=20 sore thumb. Doea anyone know of a chemical which I can put on the copper = to turn=20 it black?
Thanks in = anticipation.
------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C01410.C2D8E340-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Sep 1 13:40:55 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 1 Sep 2000 13:32:45 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #430 built 2000-Sep-1) X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard From: Steve Richard To: N Carnes Subject: Re: Empty Emails Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2000 20:00:58 +0100 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>> Precedence: bulk There was a discussion about this a few months ago. If I remember, it related to the settings on your computer as to whether the message was blank or not. I don't know enough to go any further. Maybe someone else can. Steve In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, N Carnes writes >Hello everyone, > >I'm fairly new to Bungi. It's been interesting >reading up on a new hobby that I really love. >However, I am perplexed by some emails that has a >subject line and has no information on them. What >seems to be the problem? I have been experiencing >them more & more lately. > >Fellow glass lover, Noriko > > > >===== >http://creations-by-noriko.safeshopper.com/ > >__________________________________________________ >Do You Yahoo!? >Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere! >http://mail.yahoo.com/ >---- >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com >To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass -- Steve Richard Verrier Art Glass Ltd s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Sep 1 14:01:59 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 1 Sep 2000 13:46:41 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #430 built 2000-Sep-1) X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard From: Steve Richard To: Elaine Subject: Re: hinge tube method Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2000 20:18:47 +0100 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>> Precedence: bulk Elaine, Dee, et.al. Placing of the hinge tube under the lid requires some rethinking of the box. Normally the box sides are all of the same height. If you are going to place the tube under the back of the lid, you will need to reduce the height of the back panel. The tube is about 3mm in diameter, so you need at least 4mm clearance for the tube, tinning, and rotation. I find that 5mm is just too much and 4mm just too little space. A little experimentation is needed here. The lid also needs to have allowance for the different placing of the hinge. Were before you made allowance for the hinge at the back of the lid, you now need to add that amount to your previous dimensions. If you don't the lid will either not reach the front edge of the box, or if you had an overlap, that will have disappeared. When you have assembled your box base, you can prepare the hinges in the normal way with the wires down the quadrant formed by the two adjacent pieces of glass. Now tape the wires. Place the box on one side so the side edge of the lid is supported by the work surface. "Open" the lid to the extent you want it to be, say about 120 degrees. Tape the wires firmly or tack solder the uppermost side, then move to the other side. Finish and you will find that when you open the lid it will support itself. Self supporting lids need strong anchors. So if you do not have at least 3 solder lines (in addition to the edges) running toward the back of the lid, this is not a suitable application for this method. This is because the adhesive on the foil is not strong enough to keep the tube attached to the lid, only a solder bead can do this. Is this enough? Steve In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, Elaine writes >This is a multi-part message in MIME format. > >------=_NextPart_000_021A_01C0128C.780CCC80 >Content-Type: text/plain; > charset="Windows-1252" >Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable > >Steve, >Can you possibly explain how you do this, or is it too long for this = >list? Thanks. Elaine > ----- Original Message -----=20 > From: Steve Richard=20 > To: Art For All=20 > Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2000 4:09 PM > Subject: Cracked Lids (attn: Ann Baxter) > > > In addition I have developed a method of placing the tube under > the lid so it is unseen until the box is opened. It also provides a > rest for the lid, so no chain is needed to keep the lid from falling > back on to the table surface and possibly cracking. > Steve > > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > > >------=_NextPart_000_021A_01C0128C.780CCC80 >Content-Type: text/html; > charset="Windows-1252" >Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable > > > >http-equiv=3DContent-Type> > > > > >
Steve,
>
Can you possibly explain how you do = >this, or is=20 >it too long for this list? Thanks. Elaine
>style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000080 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: = >0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px"> >
----- Original Message -----
> style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: = >black">From:=20 > title=3Ds.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>Steve Richard = > > >
Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2000 = >4:09=20 > PM
>
Subject: Cracked Lids (attn: = >Ann=20 > Baxter)
>

In addition I have developed a method of placing the = >tube=20 > under
the lid so it is unseen until the box is opened.  It = >also=20 > provides a
rest for the lid, so no chain is needed to keep the lid = >from=20 > falling
back on to the table surface and possibly=20 > cracking.
Steve

----
For subscription changes, please = >mail to: = >href=3D"mailto:glass-request@bungi.com">glass-request@bungi.com
To= > send=20 > to the list,      please mail to: href=3D"mailto:glass@bungi.com">glass@bungi.com
Archives = >available at = >href=3D"http://www.bungi.com/glass">http://www.bungi.com/glass
LOCKQUOTE> > >------=_NextPart_000_021A_01C0128C.780CCC80-- > >---- >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com >To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass -- Steve Richard Verrier Art Glass Ltd s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Sep 1 17:02:16 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 1 Sep 2000 16:46:57 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #430 built 2000-Sep-1) X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles From: "Christie A. Wood" To: Bungi Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Looking for company making clear apothecary bottles Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2000 17:14:25 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk If anyone online knows of a company or glassblower doing this type of work, please pass this message on over to them. I will check in the IGGA membership files. Thanks. Christie A. Wood - IGGA Exec. Director North Wales, PA USA -------------Forwarded Message----------------- From: INTERNET:Spamwit@aol.com, INTERNET:Spamwit@aol.com To: [unknown], INTERNET:info@igga.org Date: 08/30/2000 9:43 PM = Hi, I've been trying to find a company that sells clear, antique-style = apothecary bottles with ground glass lids. If you know of anyone, please = let = me know. Thanks. = ----------------------- Internet Header -------------------------------- Sender: Spamwit@aol.com= ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Sep 1 22:15:45 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 1 Sep 2000 22:06:52 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #431 built 2000-Sep-1) X-Path: home.com!cecnralph From: cecnralph To: Steve Richard , Content-Type: multipart/alternative; Subject: Re: hinge tube method Date: Sat, 02 Sep 2000 00:43:21 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>> Organization: Grendel Studio Precedence: bulk --------------C3AA3B2C4402B6FADB32553E Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Steve, this is very interesting, makes sense but...no it is not enough. Have you a scanner? How about some line drawings (72 dpi GIF) you incorporate in the body of your message, since I don't think Bungi allows attachments. Or maybe you could send something like that to those of us who indicate we somehow didn't visualize it completely? Thanks - Cec Steve Richard wrote: > Elaine, Dee, et.al. > Placing of the hinge tube under the lid requires some rethinking > of the box. Normally the box sides are all of the same height. If you > are going to place the tube under the back of the lid, you will need to > reduce the height of the back panel. The tube is about 3mm in diameter, > so you need at least 4mm clearance for the tube, tinning, and rotation. > I find that 5mm is just too much and 4mm just too little space. A > little experimentation is needed here. > The lid also needs to have allowance for the different placing > of the hinge. Were before you made allowance for the hinge at the back > of the lid, you now need to add that amount to your previous dimensions. > If you don't the lid will either not reach the front edge of the box, or > if you had an overlap, that will have disappeared. > When you have assembled your box base, you can prepare the > hinges in the normal way with the wires down the quadrant formed by the > two adjacent pieces of glass. Now tape the wires. Place the box on one > side so the side edge of the lid is supported by the work surface. > "Open" the lid to the extent you want it to be, say about 120 degrees. > Tape the wires firmly or tack solder the uppermost side, then move to > the other side. Finish and you will find that when you open the lid it > will support itself. > Self supporting lids need strong anchors. So if you do not have > at least 3 solder lines (in addition to the edges) running toward the > back of the lid, this is not a suitable application for this method. > This is because the adhesive on the foil is not strong enough to keep > the tube attached to the lid, only a solder bead can do this. > Is this enough? > > Steve > > In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, Elaine writes > >This is a multi-part message in MIME format. > > > >------=_NextPart_000_021A_01C0128C.780CCC80 > >Content-Type: text/plain; > > charset="Windows-1252" > >Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable > > > >Steve, > >Can you possibly explain how you do this, or is it too long for this = > >list? Thanks. Elaine > > ----- Original Message -----=20 > > From: Steve Richard=20 > > To: Art For All=20 > > Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2000 4:09 PM > > Subject: Cracked Lids (attn: Ann Baxter) > > > > > > In addition I have developed a method of placing the tube under > > the lid so it is unseen until the box is opened. It also provides a > > rest for the lid, so no chain is needed to keep the lid from falling > > back on to the table surface and possibly cracking. > > Steve > > > > ---- > > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > > > > > >------=_NextPart_000_021A_01C0128C.780CCC80 > >Content-Type: text/html; > > charset="Windows-1252" > >Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable > > > > > > > > >http-equiv=3DContent-Type> > > > > > > > > > >
Steve,
> >
Can you possibly explain how you do = > >this, or is=20 > >it too long for this list? Thanks. Elaine
> > >style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000080 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: = > >0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px"> > >
----- Original Message -----
> > > style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: = > >black">From:=20 > > > title=3Ds.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>Steve Richard = > > > > > >
Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2000 = > >4:09=20 > > PM
> >
Subject: Cracked Lids (attn: = > >Ann=20 > > Baxter)
> >

In addition I have developed a method of placing the = > >tube=20 > > under
the lid so it is unseen until the box is opened.  It = > >also=20 > > provides a
rest for the lid, so no chain is needed to keep the lid = > >from=20 > > falling
back on to the table surface and possibly=20 > > cracking.
Steve

----
For subscription changes, please = > >mail to: > = > >href=3D"mailto:glass-request@bungi.com">glass-request@bungi.com
To= > > send=20 > > to the list,      please mail to: > href=3D"mailto:glass@bungi.com">glass@bungi.com
Archives = > >available at > = > >href=3D"http://www.bungi.com/glass">http://www.bungi.com/glass
>LOCKQUOTE> > > > >------=_NextPart_000_021A_01C0128C.780CCC80-- > > > >---- > >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > >To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > > -- > Steve Richard > Verrier Art Glass Ltd > s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass -- ********************************************************************* * Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood and/or Ralph Bernard Wood * Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy) ********************************************************************* --------------C3AA3B2C4402B6FADB32553E Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Steve, this is very interesting, makes sense but...no it is not enough.  Have you a scanner?  How about some line drawings (72 dpi GIF) you incorporate in the body of your message, since I don't think Bungi allows attachments.  Or maybe you could send something like that to those of us who indicate we somehow didn't visualize it completely?  Thanks - Cec

Steve Richard wrote:

Elaine, Dee, et.al.
        Placing of the hinge tube under the lid requires some rethinking
of the box.  Normally the box sides are all of the same height. If you
are going to place the tube under the back of the lid, you will need to
reduce the height of the back panel. The tube is about 3mm in diameter,
so you need at least 4mm clearance for the tube, tinning, and rotation.
I find that 5mm is just too much and 4mm just too little space.  A
little experimentation is needed here.
        The lid also needs to have allowance for the different placing
of the hinge. Were before you made allowance for the hinge at the back
of the lid, you now need to add that amount to your previous dimensions.
If you don't the lid will either not reach the front edge of the box, or
if you had an overlap, that will have disappeared.
        When you have assembled your box base, you can prepare the
hinges in the normal way with the wires down the quadrant formed by the
two adjacent pieces of glass.  Now tape the wires.  Place the box on one
side so the side edge of the lid is supported by the work surface.
"Open" the lid to the extent you want it to be, say about 120 degrees.
Tape the wires firmly or tack solder the uppermost side, then move to
the other side.  Finish and you will find that when you open the lid it
will support itself.
        Self supporting lids need strong anchors.  So if you do not have
at least 3 solder lines (in addition to the edges) running toward the
back of the lid, this is not a suitable application for this method.
This is because the adhesive on the foil is not strong enough to keep
the tube attached to the lid, only a solder bead can do this.
        Is this enough?

Steve

In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, Elaine <wmagdycz@massed.net> writes
>This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
>
>------=_NextPart_000_021A_01C0128C.780CCC80
>Content-Type: text/plain;
>       charset="Windows-1252"
>Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
>
>Steve,
>Can you possibly explain how you do this, or is it too long for this =
>list? Thanks. Elaine
>  ----- Original Message -----=20
>  From: Steve Richard=20
>  To: Art For All=20
>  Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2000 4:09 PM
>  Subject: Cracked Lids (attn: Ann Baxter)
>
>
>  In addition I have developed a method of placing the tube under
>  the lid so it is unseen until the box is opened.  It also provides a
>  rest for the lid, so no chain is needed to keep the lid from falling
>  back on to the table surface and possibly cracking.
>  Steve
>
>  ----
>  For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>  To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>  Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
>
>------=_NextPart_000_021A_01C0128C.780CCC80
>Content-Type: text/html;
>       charset="Windows-1252"
>Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
>
><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
><HTML><HEAD>
><META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dwindows-1252" =
>http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
><META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2919.6307" name=3DGENERATOR>
><STYLE></STYLE>
></HEAD>
><BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
><DIV><FONT color=3D#000080 size=3D2>Steve,</FONT></DIV>
><DIV><FONT color=3D#000080 size=3D2>Can you possibly explain how you do =
>this, or is=20
>it too long for this list? Thanks. Elaine</FONT></DIV>
><BLOCKQUOTE=20
>style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000080 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
>0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
>  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
>  <DIV=20
>  style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
>black"><B>From:</B>=20
>  <A href=3D"mailto:s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk"=20
>  title=3Ds.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>Steve Richard</A> =
></DIV>
>  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
>href=3D"mailto:art.forall@iofm.net"=20
>  title=3Dart.forall@iofm.net>Art For All</A> </DIV>
>  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, August 29, 2000 =
>4:09=20
>  PM</DIV>
>  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Cracked Lids (attn: =
>Ann=20
>  Baxter)</DIV>
>  <DIV><BR></DIV>In addition I have developed a method of placing the =
>tube=20
>  under<BR>the lid so it is unseen until the box is opened.&nbsp; It =
>also=20
>  provides a<BR>rest for the lid, so no chain is needed to keep the lid =
>from=20
>  falling<BR>back on to the table surface and possibly=20
>  cracking.<BR>Steve<BR><BR>----<BR>For subscription changes, please =
>mail to: <A=20
>  =
>href=3D"mailto:glass-request@bungi.com">glass-request@bungi.com</A><BR>To=
> send=20
>  to the list,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; please mail to: <A=20
>  href=3D"mailto:glass@bungi.com">glass@bungi.com</A><BR>Archives =
>available at <A=20
>  =
>href=3D"http://www.bungi.com/glass">http://www.bungi.com/glass</A><BR></B=
>LOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
>
>------=_NextPart_000_021A_01C0128C.780CCC80--
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

--
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

--
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************
  --------------C3AA3B2C4402B6FADB32553E-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Sep 2 17:32:26 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sat, 2 Sep 2000 17:23:34 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #432 built 2000-Sep-2) X-Path: aol.com!CINDEL67 From: CINDEL67@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Subject: Re: hinge tube method Date: Sat, 2 Sep 2000 20:17:02 EDT Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk Steve, I'd really be interested in seeing a line drawing or photo about this too. Thanks! Cinda > Steve, this is very interesting, makes sense but...no it is not enough. > > > Have > > you a scanner? How about some line drawings (72 dpi GIF) you incorporate > in > > the body of your message, since I don't think Bungi allows attachments. > Or > > maybe you could send something like that to those of us who indicate we > > somehow didn't visualize it completely? Thanks - Cec > > > > Steve Richard wrote: > > > > > Elaine, Dee, et.al. > > > Placing of the hinge tube under the lid requires some > rethinking > > > of the box. Normally the box sides are all of the same height. If you > > > are going to place the tube under the back of the lid, you will need to > > > reduce the height of the back panel. The tube is about 3mm in diameter, > > > so you need at least 4mm clearance for the tube, tinning, and rotation. > > > I find that 5mm is just too much and 4mm just too little space. A > > > little experimentation is needed here. > > > The lid also needs to have allowance for the different placing > > > of the hinge. Were before you made allowance for the hinge at the back > > > of the lid, you now need to add that amount to your previous dimensions. > > > > If you don't the lid will either not reach the front edge of the box, > or > > > if you had an overlap, that will have disappeared. > > > When you have assembled your box base, you can prepare the > > > hinges in the normal way with the wires down the quadrant formed by the > > > two adjacent pieces of glass. Now tape the wires. Place the box on > one > > > side so the side edge of the lid is supported by the work surface. > > > "Open" the lid to the extent you want it to be, say about 120 degrees. > > > Tape the wires firmly or tack solder the uppermost side, then move to > > > the other side. Finish and you will find that when you open the lid it > > > will support itself. > > > Self supporting lids need strong anchors. So if you do not > have > > > at least 3 solder lines (in addition to the edges) running toward the > > > back of the lid, this is not a suitable application for this method. > > > This is because the adhesive on the foil is not strong enough to keep > > > the tube attached to the lid, only a solder bead can do this. > > > Is this enough? > > > > > > Steve > > > > > > In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, Elaine writes > > > >This is a multi-part message in MIME format. > > > > > > > >------=_NextPart_000_021A_01C0128C.780CCC80 > > > >Content-Type: text/plain; > > > > charset="Windows-1252" > > > >Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable > > > > > > > >Steve, > > > >Can you possibly explain how you do this, or is it too long for this = > > > >list? Thanks. Elaine > > > > ----- Original Message -----=20 > > > > From: Steve Richard=20 > > > > To: Art For All=20 > > > > Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2000 4:09 PM > > > > Subject: Cracked Lids (attn: Ann Baxter) > > > > > > > > > > > > In addition I have developed a method of placing the tube under > > > > the lid so it is unseen until the box is opened. It also provides a > > > > rest for the lid, so no chain is needed to keep the lid from falling > > > > back on to the table surface and possibly cracking. > > > > Steve > > > > > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Sep 3 17:27:12 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 3 Sep 2000 17:15:16 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #434 built 2000-Sep-3) X-Path: yahoo.com!barbaraelmore From: barbara elmore To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: box hinge Date: Sun, 3 Sep 2000 17:13:44 -0700 (PDT) Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk If you can send more complete instructions, I would appreciate anything else you may offer for your construction method! I think I know what you're describing, but when I try it.......we'll see? ===== Thank you, Barbara Elmore __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere! http://mail.yahoo.com/ ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Sep 4 06:03:55 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 4 Sep 2000 05:54:58 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #434 built 2000-Sep-3) X-Path: hotmail.com!chipleyarts From: "Jonathan Smith" To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed Subject: Questions from a novice Date: Mon, 04 Sep 2000 08:54:16 EDT Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk I am brand-new to the art of stained glass. I have completed one project. I think it wasn't bad for my first effort (though to listen to my wife, it deserves to be hung in St Peter's Basilica). I haven't had any classes; I have learned everything from books. This is OK, but invariably questions arise that books don't seem to answer. Maybe some of you can help. 1. I seem to have read conflicting info in my books about soldering. Most of my books say to have a rounded bead. But one book said that a good solder will have a flat bead. Could the writers be refering to different situations, or are there differing opinions about what kind of bead the solder should have? 2. There are an astonishing number of choices when it comes to glass. I have read and understand the differences between *types* of glass (cathedral, antique, etc), but is there much difference in *brands* of glass? What brands do y'all use? 3. I purchased a basic stained glass kit to get started. The kit contained most of the basic equipment (grinder, cutter, pliers, soldering iron, etc.). I have also bought some tools that didn't come with the kit (self-lubricating cutter, pattern shears). I recently received a catalog with a mind-boggling number of specialty tools. Are there any tools or supplies you have found particularly useful? Thanks for your help. I glad I found this discussion group. I believe I will learn alot here! Jonathan Smith _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com. ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Sep 4 08:32:51 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 4 Sep 2000 08:01:37 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #434 built 2000-Sep-3) X-Path: mail2.nai.net!shad From: Family Account To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: Re: Questions from a novice Date: Mon, 04 Sep 2000 10:25:08 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>> Precedence: bulk Hi, Jonathon > > > 1. I seem to have read conflicting info in my books about soldering. Most of > my books say to have a rounded bead. But one book said that a good solder > will have a flat bead. What you don't want is a soldering line that shows a groove where the space between the glass is. I think getting a "flat" seam would be difficult. Go for a rounded bead. HOW rounded, is a matter of preference and method. My husband, for example, prefers a slightly higher bead than I do. > > > 2. There are an astonishing number of choices when it comes to glass. I have > read and understand the differences between *types* of glass (cathedral, > antique, etc), but is there much difference in *brands* of glass? What > brands do y'all use? When you are next at your suppliers, ask him or her to show you glass by specific manufacturers. Perhaps do it in one type of color, such as a basic green. Hold the pieces to the light. You will be astonished by the differences. I use a lot of Youghiogheny, but also use Armstrong, Specturm, and whatever else is right for what I'm making. > > > 3. I purchased a basic stained glass kit to get started. The kit contained > most of the basic equipment (grinder, cutter, pliers, soldering iron, etc.). > I have also bought some tools that didn't come with the kit > (self-lubricating cutter, pattern shears). I recently received a catalog > with a mind-boggling number of specialty tools. Are there any tools or > supplies you have found particularly useful? Master your basic tools. I would suggest you go to the drugstore and buy some disposable gloves for working with chemicals, such as patina. > > > Thanks for your help. I glad I found this discussion group. I believe I will > learn alot here! > > Jonathan Smith > Happy to have you here, Jonathan. What have you made so far? Dorothy ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Sep 4 10:41:54 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 4 Sep 2000 10:30:31 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #434 built 2000-Sep-3) X-Path: slonet.org!edupjohn From: "Peggy W. Johnsen" To: Jonathan Smith Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Subject: Re: Questions from a novice Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2000 10:29:51 -0700 (PDT) Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>> Precedence: bulk Jonathan: Welcome to the passion of stained glass. The only other piece of equipment I would recommend at this time is to get a Morton System's mini cutting surface. This will aid enormously in getting rid of the glass shards and chips when you cut. It will also contain the glass scraps rather than get them on the table of floor where kids or pets may walk. The cutting surface is a plastic "egg-crate" type surface that collects the glass scraps. The size of your solder bead is a matter of personal preference. When you place your stained glass in the window, you don't see the bead size or whether it is patinaed or not...just the stained glass design. Some people bead on one side only while the back side has a rather "flat" bead. As you get proficient in glass you will be able to make these kind of decisions as the artist. Peggy ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Sep 4 11:05:46 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 4 Sep 2000 10:38:37 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #434 built 2000-Sep-3) X-Path: home.com!cecnralph From: cecnralph To: Jonathan Smith , Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Subject: Re: Questions from a novice Date: Mon, 04 Sep 2000 13:16:29 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>> Organization: Grendel Studio Precedence: bulk Hi - welcome - you will learn a lot, and be amused too. Dorothy who just wrote to you has invented a hysterical cast of characters who are Glass Artistes and every once in a while she sends in reports on their careers. As for running a bead - the purpose of the solder is to form the equivalent of came (the leading) so the higher the bead, the more support the glass has. I have seen relatively flat, but that relies on the adhesive on the foil to hold it together, and that's nowhere near as secure as you might think. And I'm sure that your first project turned out nice. The art of glass is fairly forgiving for newbies, since the glass itself is glorious enough to make up for technique. I've rarely seen a truely ugly glass project. I've been doing glass for at least 5 years now, and helping teach, and in that time I've only seen 3 really ugly projects, and that was more lack of taste, in two of them, rather than poor technique. You probably ought to have 2 grozing pliers, and one running plier (bigger and used for long lines). If you decide this is your craft - at least for the next several years, one big purchase will be really nice - and that is a grinder. There is a big controversy about using grinders, but mostly the anti-people are using came, which is forgiving of rough edges. A sharp edge can cut the foil, however, and since foiling is what you probably will be doing for awhile, I think it a wise purchase. However, DON'T take this as an endorsement of using it to cut your more adverturesome pieces. You still have to learn how to cut and the only way that's possible is to cut, cut, cut, and push yourself on inside curves. And amazingly ginders are not THAT expensive, although working glass is not a cheap habit to maintain. I had bad luck with an Inland one, but the others are all good. As you do more glass, you will gradually come to get more tools. A really nice thing is a light table or box, which you can make. Your working area will eventually get larger and larger. At some point you will want to check out the following spiral bound booklet, which is usually available at any glass supply store or from a catalog: "Your Stained Glass Workshop" by Gene Mayo, ISBN: 0-936459-34-4, which tells you how to make a number of handy things, like for glass storage, or a workbench. Doesn't cost much. Just remember that no two pieces of glass will be the same, just as two dye lots of cloth are different. You can buy some glass via mail, but if you are really looking for a special something for a design you have, you may need to actually see the glass. And if you find a hunk of glass that really wows you, get it - there will never be another quite like it. Also don't be afraid to begin modifying designs and drawing your own. Realize that ALL glass has some kind of grain, and you need to take that into consideration when placing your pattern. If you are using iridized glass, the iridescent layer can be scratched and even rubbed off so you need to clean it gently. Probably the best behaved glass is Spectrum. Translucent glass will cut easier than an opaque, and the white opalescent "milk" glass cuts harder than black. Art glass like Youghiogheny (pronounced Yock-a-gainy), Bullseye, and Uroboros is quite difficult at times, but use it anyway! And rarely you get a hunk of glass that simply WON'T cut well at all. Did your package have foiling shears? If not, such scissors are a major pain, but they can be used to good effect, since they cut between paper pattern pieces evenly, giving you the allowance necessary for the extra space needed for the foil, and also to give enough space between the pieces so the solder is between the pieces as well as at the visible surfaces. Just remember to take really small strokes. As for pasting patterns, use glue sticks. And if you are using a grinder, a coating of petroleum jelly keeps the paper from floating off - and I cover the lines made by felt-tipped pens as well because they tend to float off. You need two identical patterns - one to cut and one for assembly - underneath the cut glass. Always wash well, rinse and dry your pieces after cutting and before foiling. People who do leading often polish the came with Simi-Chrome - available in auto parts places, and people who do foil often polish the whole thing. There are glass polishing compounds available, but many people use car polish. A recent find for me (thanks to Bungi) is Turtle Wax spray. In both cases, that lessens lead handling safety problems. Many of us use soap that chemically bonds heavy metals, rendering them inert, because lead from came and solder is poisonous. You also may want to get filters for your face (over your nose) and ALWAYS wear safety goggles/glasses when cutting or grinding, or even soldering, especially if you get your face close to the work, because the flux can spit hot metal at you. Get a box of throw-away surgeons gloves that you can use while working with chemicals (including flux if you tend to get it on you). Flux and patina can eat holes in your clothes so if you wear anything nice, be certain to throw your shirt/trousers, etc. in the washer right away. If you are anywhere "near" a glass supply place, they probably have classes. You might also check out the nearby community college, adult classes, if your local school system offers such, or try parks and rec - that's how my daughter and I got our start. I'd advise a beginning class. I also think when you are ready to make the jump from foil to leading, you will want to take at least one class. If not, there are a number of videos available, which can be of help, but they are a poor substitute for a real class. You are more apt to cut yourself when choosing glass than when actually working it. I got me a pair of those gardening gloves with green latex on the palm and fingers - it's great for picking glass out of bins, etc. Good luck and HAVE FUN!!! - Cec Jonathan Smith wrote: > I am brand-new to the art of stained glass. I have completed one project. I > think it wasn't bad for my first effort (though to listen to my wife, it > deserves to be hung in St Peter's Basilica). > > I haven't had any classes; I have learned everything from books. This is OK, > but invariably questions arise that books don't seem to answer. Maybe some > of you can help. > > 1. I seem to have read conflicting info in my books about soldering. Most of > my books say to have a rounded bead. But one book said that a good solder > will have a flat bead. Could the writers be refering to different > situations, or are there differing opinions about what kind of bead the > solder should have? > > 2. There are an astonishing number of choices when it comes to glass. I have > read and understand the differences between *types* of glass (cathedral, > antique, etc), but is there much difference in *brands* of glass? What > brands do y'all use? > > 3. I purchased a basic stained glass kit to get started. The kit contained > most of the basic equipment (grinder, cutter, pliers, soldering iron, etc.). > I have also bought some tools that didn't come with the kit > (self-lubricating cutter, pattern shears). I recently received a catalog > with a mind-boggling number of specialty tools. Are there any tools or > supplies you have found particularly useful? > > Thanks for your help. I glad I found this discussion group. I believe I will > learn alot here! > > Jonathan Smith > > _________________________________________________________________________ > Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. > > Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at > http://profiles.msn.com. > > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass -- ********************************************************************* * Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood and/or Ralph Bernard Wood * Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy) ********************************************************************* ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Sep 4 11:43:41 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 4 Sep 2000 11:33:43 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #434 built 2000-Sep-3) X-Path: home.net!esavad From: "Mike Savad" To: "Jonathan Smith" , Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: RE: Questions from a novice Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2000 14:31:31 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>> Precedence: bulk Mike's Stained Glass - Tips Tricks Photos http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141 4-6-2000 New Pages Added: 1 new tip page: Help buying stained glass, updated info on the about me page, and 3 window set's for skycity. Including lot's of new links, and more FREE PATTERN links. > -----Original Message----- > From: Jonathan Smith [mailto:chipleyarts@hotmail.com] > Sent: Monday, September 04, 2000 8:54 AM > To: glass@bungi.com > Subject: Questions from a novice > > > I am brand-new to the art of stained glass. I have completed one > project. I > think it wasn't bad for my first effort (though to listen to my wife, it > deserves to be hung in St Peter's Basilica). > > I haven't had any classes; I have learned everything from books. > This is OK, > but invariably questions arise that books don't seem to answer. > Maybe some > of you can help. > > 1. I seem to have read conflicting info in my books about > soldering. Most of > my books say to have a rounded bead. But one book said that a good solder > will have a flat bead. Could the writers be refering to different > situations, or are there differing opinions about what kind of bead the > solder should have? > depends on the situation. for the front of a window, i'll bead it. it helps the over all strength, and give's it a finished look. other's don't see it that way and leave it flat. i judge an artist by how well their soldering is. > 2. There are an astonishing number of choices when it comes to > glass. I have > read and understand the differences between *types* of glass (cathedral, > antique, etc), but is there much difference in *brands* of glass? What > brands do y'all use? i use all of them. it depends on what your making. each glass manufactrer makes colors differently. you can literly have 50 shades of blue. prices are higher on some of the glass. youghiogheny, hase good glass if you want shading, highlights, and shadow. spectrum has a good all around color base if you want continuity between pieces - for now into the future. each company specializes in it's own type of glass. and it all depends if your making a victorian, celtic knots, landsace, flowers, animals - lamps, boxes, etc. that all decides on what glass to choose from. > > 3. I purchased a basic stained glass kit to get started. The kit > contained > most of the basic equipment (grinder, cutter, pliers, soldering > iron, etc.). > I have also bought some tools that didn't come with the kit > (self-lubricating cutter, pattern shears). I recently received a catalog > with a mind-boggling number of specialty tools. Are there any tools or > supplies you have found particularly useful? > the only special tools that i use (though i have many of them) are: 1. the M-80 breaker (though i just got it). 2. ringstar pliers 3. a good set of metal running pliers 4. a score board (i think mine's from rainbow). 5. a strip cutter (though never used the circle cutter) 6. a lens cutter (but only because i've made quite a few cars) 7. a grinder 8. a bandsaw of some kind (i use the ring saw - but if i were in the market i'd probably get the one that looks like a jig saw). that's about all. though i have a huge amount of things, i don't use alot of them. but i'm a gadgetphile, so i need to get all the goodies.... ---Mike Savad ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Sep 4 15:36:47 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 4 Sep 2000 15:16:41 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #434 built 2000-Sep-3) X-Path: gjr From: gjr@bungi.com (Glenna Rand) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Baby Arrival Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2000 15:16:14 PDT Message-ID: Precedence: bulk Hi everyone, I've arrived back from the hospital today. On Sept 3 at 3:15 am little Nakea Leilani Rand arrived. 7 lbs 5 oz. 20 inches long -- Glenna Rand gjr@bungi.com ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Sep 4 15:46:32 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 4 Sep 2000 15:37:38 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #434 built 2000-Sep-3) X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard From: Steve Richard To: Jonathan Smith Subject: Solder, Glass Manufacturers, and basic tools and a PS (Was:Questions from a novice Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2000 23:15:51 +0100 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>> Precedence: bulk O K I can't resist. It's my last day at home, but I will say some things. In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, Jonathan Smith writes ......cut...... >1. I seem to have read conflicting info in my books about soldering. Most of >my books say to have a rounded bead. But one book said that a good solder >will have a flat bead. Could the writers be refering to different >situations, or are there differing opinions about what kind of bead the >solder should have? > I assume you are doing copper foil. In this you need a bead which is raised. If you were doing leaded glass, you would want flat solder joints. You can get much of this by changing the proportion of tin in the solder. In the UK "C" grade solder is 40% tin and 60% lead; "K" grade is 60% tin and 40% lead - this solidifies more quickly and so leaves a higher bead. There is more information on this in the archives and Bob Deuschnau on this list has a lot of information about the solidification temperatures of various compositions of solder. >2. There are an astonishing number of choices when it comes to glass. I have >read and understand the differences between *types* of glass (cathedral, >antique, etc), but is there much difference in *brands* of glass? What >brands do y'all use? > Almost all the glass produced in the USA is of high quality so the manufacturer is less important than the figuration you want in the glass. The most popular glass seems to be Spectrum for its easy cutting qualities, but I find it a generally insipid range of glass. Less popular glasses include Armstrong and Kokomo, both of which can be more difficult to cut deep curves from. Wissmach is another easy cutting glass, but Yough(I can't spell the rest) and sometimes Bullseye can be difficult. PS have others found that the colour stability of Bullseye is less than satisfactory when fusing and slumping? >3. I purchased a basic stained glass kit to get started. The kit contained >most of the basic equipment (grinder, cutter, pliers, soldering iron, etc.). >I have also bought some tools that didn't come with the kit >(self-lubricating cutter, pattern shears). I recently received a catalog >with a mind-boggling number of specialty tools. Are there any tools or >supplies you have found particularly useful? > A hobby horse for me! Put away your grinder for a year at least. This will allow you to improve your cutting skills, upon which all else rests. Basic tools for me are: cutter grozing pliers oyster knife (weighted) horse shoe nails lead knife soldering iron ..cut..... Steve -- Steve Richard Verrier Art Glass Ltd s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Sep 4 16:08:43 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 4 Sep 2000 15:53:28 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #434 built 2000-Sep-3) X-Path: ilnk.com!andor From: "Linda Jo Letscher" To: "Glenna Rand" , Subject: Re: Baby Arrival Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2000 18:51:17 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk Congratulations. Linda Jo -----Original Message----- From: Glenna Rand To: glass@bungi.com Date: Monday, September 04, 2000 6:44 PM Subject: Baby Arrival > >Hi everyone, > >I've arrived back from the hospital today. >On Sept 3 at 3:15 am little Nakea Leilani Rand arrived. >7 lbs 5 oz. >20 inches long > > >-- >Glenna Rand >gjr@bungi.com >---- >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com >To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Sep 4 18:48:12 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 4 Sep 2000 18:43:21 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #435 built 2000-Sep-4) X-Path: ix.netcom.com!gunnx4 From: Suzanne Gunn To: Glenna Rand Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: Re: Baby Arrival Date: Mon, 04 Sep 2000 20:27:16 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> References: <> Precedence: bulk Congratuations to you and Dave!! :o) Maybe you could break a rule just this once and post a pic for us all to see? If not, I'd love one sent privately. Im so happy for you both, Glenna! Hope you are feeling good. Suzanne Glenna Rand wrote: > > Hi everyone, > > I've arrived back from the hospital today. > On Sept 3 at 3:15 am little Nakea Leilani Rand arrived. > 7 lbs 5 oz. > 20 inches long > > -- > Glenna Rand > gjr@bungi.com > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Sep 4 19:41:19 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 4 Sep 2000 19:25:19 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #435 built 2000-Sep-4) X-Path: voyager.net!glasscat From: "Carolyn" To: Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Glenna Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2000 21:00:32 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk CONGRATULATIONS, GLENNA!!!! Almost had labor on "Labor Day"! ; ) Carolyn glasscat@voyager.net ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Sep 4 20:10:29 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 4 Sep 2000 19:57:05 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #435 built 2000-Sep-4) X-Path: home.com!cecnralph From: cecnralph To: Steve Richard , Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Subject: Re: Poisons (was: Questions from a novice) Date: Mon, 04 Sep 2000 22:56:15 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> References: <<57mqDEA0ECt5EwRY@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>> Organization: Grendel Studio Precedence: bulk Thank you Steve. I've learned some of that from you. And I know you don't agree with some of that (grinders? wax?) but I tried to note where disagreements lie. However you issued a challenge here. There is a real chemist on this list, so please forgive me if I take this up, and please chime in if I'm wrong: As far as I know, there is no lower safe limit for lead in the system, and lead tends to build up in the body. Indeed, recent studies have shown that the threshold for brain damage is much much lower than previously thought. Nor does lead seem to offer any benefit in the human body. And Great Britain is also pushing for lead eradication - to the extent that I suspect even the use of lead came for glass windows is probably going to be banned over there. However, there are many necessary nutrients, trace elements, etc. that play a role in the health of an individual, that in any great amount can cause harm. An absence of one of these may present problems in later life. For instance, any great amount of iodine in your body would be poisonous. However a complete lack of iodine can be equally ruinous. In this instance, the thyroid problem caused by lack of iodine is a goiter, which is a growth on the neck which I think can eventually kill you (strangles you, in essence). Chlorine is routinely used in water supplies around the world to kill unwanted biological pollutants, but in concentrated amounts can do you in. Fluorine is a naturally occurring trace element in many natural water supplies, and it was noticed that in areas where fluorine existed in trace amounts, the teeth of those using the water for drinking were much less subject to dental caries (cavities). Thus many municipalities now deliberately add trace elements of fluorine. This has been done for at least 50 years or more, with no harm, as far as can be told. And healthy teeth not only saves teeth, but also saves money (fixing teeth) and it saves lives, since many people do not properly take care of their teeth, and many more do not have access to dental care they can afford. Poor dental health is a major contributor to systemic and potentially fatal infections. As a matter of fact, two small communities in the Maryland mountains have finally decided to add it, because their kids have lousy rotten teeth in comparison to the neighboring areas where fluoride is used in the water, and they have finally decided that there is no harm in the minute amounts used. It also makes a big difference which fluorine compound is used. One really lethal kind used to be used in a standard test for something or other, and just a few years ago a doctor in some lab died - in only a day or two - because her rubber gloves had a minute pin hole, and they have now decided there are other less risky ways of testing for whatever it was. Fluorine is a common component in the acid used to etch glass. Jack Meredith, at Meredith glass, nearly lost an arm because of an accidental spill, although I think at the time he was a chemical lab researcher, not using it for glass. That gruesome bit came in a safety spiel from my classes in sandblasting and acid etching at Meredith Glass (Silver Spring MD). - Cec Steve Richard wrote: > Cec. > > You gave a really good (although I don't agree with all you said) > introduction to beginners. Thanks. > > One element raised my hackles. Lead is treated as a major poison in the > USofA, but fluorine is not. Many or most places in the US put fluoride > in the water. It is a greater poison than lead!!! Still it is drunk > daily. > > -- > Steve Richard > Verrier Art Glass Ltd > s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk -- ********************************************************************* * Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood and/or Ralph Bernard Wood * Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy) ********************************************************************* ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Sep 4 20:29:52 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 4 Sep 2000 20:06:19 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #435 built 2000-Sep-4) X-Path: iconn.net!tbyrnes From: Tim Byrnes To: Glenna Rand Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: CONGRATULASTION Date: Mon, 04 Sep 2000 23:09:59 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk CONGRATULATION GLENNA Tim Byrnes Q.M. Stained Glass Studio -- Live easy, but think first. -- anonymous ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Sep 4 23:59:29 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 4 Sep 2000 23:48:10 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #435 built 2000-Sep-4) X-Path: arrakis.es!kiram From: "Kira Mason" To: "bungi" Subject: RE: Baby Arrival Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2000 08:42:46 +0200 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk CONGRATULATIONS!! I love the name! Kira -----Mensaje original----- De: Glenna Rand Para: glass@bungi.com Fecha: martes 5 de septiembre de 2000 0:35 Asunto: Baby Arrival > >Hi everyone, > >I've arrived back from the hospital today. >On Sept 3 at 3:15 am little Nakea Leilani Rand arrived. >7 lbs 5 oz. >20 inches long > > >-- >Glenna Rand >gjr@bungi.com >---- >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com >To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Sep 5 02:07:03 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 5 Sep 2000 01:34:28 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #435 built 2000-Sep-4) X-Path: gpnet.it!mallus From: "Antonella Mallus" To: Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Murano Glass Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2000 10:13:02 +0200 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk Dear Sir/Madame, please visit our website www.lineamazzuccato.it and if you wish make a link to us. We produce fine Murano Glass and on-line you'll find a catalogue of our best production. Thanks in advance for your attention Antonella LINEA MAZZUCCATO ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Sep 5 06:58:20 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 5 Sep 2000 06:30:09 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #435 built 2000-Sep-4) X-Path: bankpds.com!avssg From: "Anna Verbsky Sagami" To: Content-Type: multipart/alternative; Subject: Fusing Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2000 08:34:00 -0700 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0058_01C01714.0A34EF80 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I have a question for the Fusing people out there... I am getting a = light fog on some of my pieces (not all of them). Slumping small = votives. The plates don't ever fog? I am confused..... ------=_NextPart_000_0058_01C01714.0A34EF80 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I have a question for the Fusing people = out=20 there...  I am getting a light fog on some of my pieces (not all of = them).  Slumping small votives.  The plates don't ever = fog?  I am=20 confused.....
------=_NextPart_000_0058_01C01714.0A34EF80-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Sep 5 06:59:59 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 5 Sep 2000 06:30:09 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #435 built 2000-Sep-4) X-Path: bright.net!arasai From: "Sarah" To: Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Re: Baby Arrival Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2000 09:22:22 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk Congratulations Glenna! I love your baby's name! I hope all is well, and may God bless this little one with a long and beautiful life! Sarah ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Sep 5 07:16:57 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 5 Sep 2000 06:40:20 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #436 built 2000-Sep-5) X-Path: POBox.com!nadinesfolly From: "Nadine BethSchneider" To: "Glenna Rand" , Content-Type: multipart/mixed; Subject: RE: Baby Arrival Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2000 08:06:34 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000E_01C01710.35899AE0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Congratulations, Dave and Glenna! The best of everything for the three of you! Nadine Nadine Beth Schneider Nadine's Folly, Ltd www.nadinesfolly.com ------=_NextPart_000_000E_01C01710.35899AE0 Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: attachment From: "Glenna Rand" To: Subject: Baby Arrival Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2000 18:16:14 -0400 Message-ID: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Priority: 3 (Normal) X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook IMO, Build 9.0.2416 (9.0.2910.0) X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.50.4133.2400 X-Path: gjr Importance: Normal Hi everyone, I've arrived back from the hospital today. On Sept 3 at 3:15 am little Nakea Leilani Rand arrived. 7 lbs 5 oz. 20 inches long -- Glenna Rand gjr@bungi.com ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ------=_NextPart_000_000E_01C01710.35899AE0-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Sep 5 11:52:25 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 5 Sep 2000 11:32:54 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #436 built 2000-Sep-5) X-Path: gjr From: gjr@bungi.com (Glenna Rand) To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Pictures Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2000 11:31:16 PDT Message-ID: Precedence: bulk Hi everyone, For those who are interested,..the baby photos are at www.bungi.com/glass Thanks to all of you for your kind words. -- Glenna Rand gjr@bungi.com ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Sep 5 14:03:04 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 5 Sep 2000 13:57:17 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #437 built 2000-Sep-5) X-Path: juno.com!nbg3755 From: Nancy B Gildersleeve To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain Subject: Re: Questions from a novice Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2000 15:09:40 -0700 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk Hello Jonathan and welcome--Things to buy next that I like to use--well, I'd second the suggestion of the small Morton cutting surface. Its invaluable. Also, you might want to get a cork backed steel ruler and a special plastic T with ledge made to rest glass against. Both are useful when you need to cut straight lines. My teacher taught us to use a glass file to smooth sharp edges after cutting. This plus grozing and running pliers worked for her, no grinders needed. The other thing I've found really handy is a product called "Gloves in a Bottle". Use just a drop on clean hands and it forms a protective layer that works to keep flux spatters from burning your hands. It has hand lotion ingredients and is harmless. Good luck and don't hesitate to keep asking questions. There are lots of helpful people out there Nancy G ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Sep 5 16:04:13 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 5 Sep 2000 15:56:30 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #437 built 2000-Sep-5) X-Path: ix.netcom.com!gunnx4 From: Suzanne Gunn To: Glenna Rand Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: Re: Pictures Date: Tue, 05 Sep 2000 16:41:08 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> References: <> Precedence: bulk http://www.bungi.com/baby/ This works better! ;o) Suzanne Glenna Rand wrote: > > Hi everyone, > > For those who are interested,..the baby photos are at > www.bungi.com/glass > > Thanks to all of you for your kind words. > > -- > Glenna Rand > gjr@bungi.com > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Sep 5 16:07:44 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 5 Sep 2000 15:33:45 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #437 built 2000-Sep-5) X-Path: pop3.nildram.co.uk!glass From: "Toby" To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Subject: Re: Baby Arrival Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2000 22:21:33 +0100 Message-ID: <200009052039.e85KdEa29520@mercury.nildram.co.uk> Precedence: bulk Glenna! Wonderful news! Congratulations! I gather Mother and child are OK. What about Dad?? Shell shocked??? Take care now and love that baby! Lovely name. May all the good spirits protect the child and make it realize its full potentials and happiness! Much Love Elisabeth 'n Toby in UK ('n Meric - of course!) Hi everyone, I've arrived back from the hospital today. On Sept 3 at 3:15 am little Nakea Leilani Rand arrived. 7 lbs 5 oz. 20 inches long -- Glenna Rand gjr@bungi.com ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind" North Lights Stained Glass - homepage http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm ---- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Sep 5 16:34:18 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 5 Sep 2000 15:35:42 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #437 built 2000-Sep-5) X-Path: pop3.nildram.co.uk!glass From: "Toby" To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Subject: Re: Solder, Glass Manufacturers, and basic tools and a PS (Was:Questions from a novice Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2000 22:21:33 +0100 Message-ID: <200009052039.e85KdBa29511@mercury.nildram.co.uk> Precedence: bulk Dear Jonathan,, I too can't resist..... There seem to be a kind of indoctrination to "newbies" in USA that a grinder is part of the basic tool kit. I am glad that Steve Richards is an American; he has his foot in both camps, i.e. he also lives and works in United Kingdom. He also has a down-to-earth approach to stained glass,. I spent two months last year travelling the width and breadth of USA showing folks that they DO NOT need a grinder as a "basic essential tool". It got quite funny at times, when 10 - 15 people were slaving away during my workshops, seeing a lone grinder parked way off limits, hoping that I might slip and "not notice". It even got so far as a quiet muttering "doesn't Elisabeth NEED loo- breaks"?? "Tell us when she goes to the john, so that we can use those few precious seconds to get to THE GRINDER". Elisabeth foiled 'em all - despite all the attempts to feed her margeritas...... HAH!! I completely subscribe to Steve's list of essential tools, and have a couple more to add; 1-inch breaking pliers a tin of Multicore tip cleaner a rubber-clad hammer (in UK called a panel-beating hammer) a bent dinner knife half of a dismantled wooden cloth peg carborandum stone (orginally intended for sharpening garden tools) natural sponge to clean soldering iron a solid stand for parking your iron (as opposed to those silly little tin sheet stands in the package when you buy your first iron) Enjoy - and let us hear how you progreess! Elisabeth 'n Toby in UK O K I can't resist. It's my last day at home, but I will say some things. In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, Jonathan Smith writes ......cut...... >1. I seem to have read conflicting info in my books about soldering. Most of >my books say to have a rounded bead. But one book said that a good solder >will have a flat bead. Could the writers be refering to different >situations, or are there differing opinions about what kind of bead the >solder should have? > I assume you are doing copper foil. In this you need a bead which is raised. If you were doing leaded glass, you would want flat solder joints. You can get much of this by changing the proportion of tin in the solder. In the UK "C" grade solder is 40% tin and 60% lead; "K" grade is 60% tin and 40% lead - this solidifies more quickly and so leaves a higher bead. There is more information on this in the archives and Bob Deuschnau on this list has a lot of information about the solidification temperatures of various compositions of solder. >2. There are an astonishing number of choices when it comes to glass. I have >read and understand the differences between *types* of glass (cathedral, >antique, etc), but is there much difference in *brands* of glass? What >brands do y'all use? > Almost all the glass produced in the USA is of high quality so the manufacturer is less important than the figuration you want in the glass. The most popular glass seems to be Spectrum for its easy cutting qualities, but I find it a generally insipid range of glass. Less popular glasses include Armstrong and Kokomo, both of which can be more difficult to cut deep curves from. Wissmach is another easy cutting glass, but Yough(I can't spell the rest) and sometimes Bullseye can be difficult. PS have others found that the colour stability of Bullseye is less than satisfactory when fusing and slumping? >3. I purchased a basic stained glass kit to get started. The kit contained >most of the basic equipment (grinder, cutter, pliers, soldering iron, etc.). >I have also bought some tools that didn't come with the kit >(self-lubricating cutter, pattern shears). I recently received a catalog >with a mind-boggling number of specialty tools. Are there any tools or >supplies you have found particularly useful? > A hobby horse for me! Put away your grinder for a year at least. This will allow you to improve your cutting skills, upon which all else rests. Basic tools for me are: cutter grozing pliers oyster knife (weighted) horse shoe nails lead knife soldering iron ..cut..... Steve -- Steve Richard Verrier Art Glass Ltd s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind" North Lights Stained Glass - homepage http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm ---- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Sep 5 17:34:06 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 5 Sep 2000 17:20:32 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #437 built 2000-Sep-5) X-Path: hotmail.com!chipleyarts From: "Jonathan Smith" To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed Subject: Thanks to all! (was Questions from a novice) Date: Tue, 05 Sep 2000 20:17:35 EDT Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk Thanks to everyone for your responses to my plea for help! I learned something from each one. Dorothy, it was very kind of you to ask about what I have made. I have only completed one project so far: a dove suncatcher. Even with my extremely limited experience, I can see a lot of room for improvement. But considering it was my first project ever, I think it turned out OK. My wife seems to think it is the greatest thing ever made (but she wouldn't be the least bit prejudiced, would she?) _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com. ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Sep 5 17:39:39 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 5 Sep 2000 17:28:41 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #437 built 2000-Sep-5) X-Path: aol.com!PookyPook From: PookyPook@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Subject: New to the list Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2000 20:25:19 EDT Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk Hi, I am new to the list. Seems like a great bunch of people here! I have been doing glass for about 3 or 4 years. I really, really love doing it. I have other hobbies, but this seems to be the most satisfying. I have just started after taking a year off.. I got a new puppy which would not be good around it, hence I stopped. He is now fine around it.. turned a year old in August. So, I am back! Got a question..... How do I get a really good, consistent, copper patina look? Mine looks fine, generally, but not as good as I would like. Here is what I do, I clean the flux off with flux cleaner, wash the glass piece, clean the solder with Kem-O-Pro Stained Glass Finishing Compound, patina it, clean it again with the Kem-O-Pro or Simichrome if it is copper. And it usually is fine, but not consistent with the "shine" through out... what am I missing? This is the way I was taught. I live in Kokomo, Indiana and took classes at the Kokomo Opolescent place. While I like their glass, I do find a lot of it much harder to cut, especially the black. And, they tend to be higher priced than other places. Also, what is the best rule of thumb for pricing? I have recently gotten oodles of orders and am curious. I was told I am waaaay to low, but hate to over charge. Would love some feedback. An example piece would be a suncatcher about 10 inches long and about 6 or 7 inches wide. Thanks in advance for any and all help. Ruth pookypook@AOL.com http://members.aol.com/RTSkeeter http://members.aol.com/Alyeska222 ICQ11716411 "Ever stop to think and forget to start again?" ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Sep 5 18:04:30 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 5 Sep 2000 17:51:41 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #437 built 2000-Sep-5) X-Path: attcanada.net!tuka From: To: Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Re: Questions from a novice Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2000 14:16:30 -0700 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>> Precedence: bulk Welcome from me as well.... A couple of tools I have found to be invaluable are a pair of metal carpenter's squares (used to true up small projects while soldering) and a pair of needle nose pliers Shiela Hello Jonathan and welcome--Things to buy next that I like to use--well, I'd second the suggestion of the small Morton cutting surface. Its invaluable. Also, you might want to get a cork backed steel ruler and a special plastic T with ledge made to rest glass against. Both are useful when you need to cut straight lines. My teacher taught us to use a glass file to smooth sharp edges after cutting. This plus grozing and running pliers worked for her, no grinders needed. The other thing I've found really handy is a product called "Gloves in a Bottle". Use just a drop on clean hands and it forms a protective layer that works to keep flux spatters from burning your hands. It has hand lotion ingredients and is harmless. Good luck and don't hesitate to keep asking questions. There are lots of helpful people out there Nancy G ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Sep 5 18:34:35 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 5 Sep 2000 18:16:09 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #437 built 2000-Sep-5) X-Path: aol.com!GlassByDes From: GlassByDes@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="part1_ca.9cd6cd5.26e6f475_boundary" Subject: Fwd: New to the list Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2000 21:14:29 EDT Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk --part1_ca.9cd6cd5.26e6f475_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Ruth, Your problem seems a simple one. Clean with a flux remover. CJ'S is great. Rinse-then dry, add patina then wax. Do not wax before you add the patina. Bob M Glass By Design, Inc Ft Lauderdale, FL Stained Glass by Glass By Design --part1_ca.9cd6cd5.26e6f475_boundary Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Received: from rly-zb04.mx.aol.com (rly-zb04.mail.aol.com [172.31.41.4]) by air-zb02.mail.aol.com (v75_b3.11) with ESMTP; Tue, 05 Sep 2000 20:45:11 -0400 Received: from daver.bungi.com (daver.bungi.com [207.126.97.2]) by rly-zb04.mx.aol.com (v75_b3.9) with ESMTP; Tue, 05 Sep 2000 20:44:32 -0400 Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 5 Sep 2000 17:28:41 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #437 built 2000-Sep-5) X-Path: aol.com!PookyPook From: PookyPook@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Subject: New to the list Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2000 20:25:19 EDT Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk X-Mailer: Unknown Hi, I am new to the list. Seems like a great bunch of people here! I have been doing glass for about 3 or 4 years. I really, really love doing it. I have other hobbies, but this seems to be the most satisfying. I have just started after taking a year off.. I got a new puppy which would not be good around it, hence I stopped. He is now fine around it.. turned a year old in August. So, I am back! Got a question..... How do I get a really good, consistent, copper patina look? Mine looks fine, generally, but not as good as I would like. Here is what I do, I clean the flux off with flux cleaner, wash the glass piece, clean the solder with Kem-O-Pro Stained Glass Finishing Compound, patina it, clean it again with the Kem-O-Pro or Simichrome if it is copper. And it usually is fine, but not consistent with the "shine" through out... what am I missing? This is the way I was taught. I live in Kokomo, Indiana and took classes at the Kokomo Opolescent place. While I like their glass, I do find a lot of it much harder to cut, especially the black. And, they tend to be higher priced than other places. Also, what is the best rule of thumb for pricing? I have recently gotten oodles of orders and am curious. I was told I am waaaay to low, but hate to over charge. Would love some feedback. An example piece would be a suncatcher about 10 inches long and about 6 or 7 inches wide. Thanks in advance for any and all help. Ruth pookypook@AOL.com http://members.aol.com/RTSkeeter http://members.aol.com/Alyeska222 ICQ11716411 "Ever stop to think and forget to start again?" ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass --part1_ca.9cd6cd5.26e6f475_boundary-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Sep 5 19:09:27 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 5 Sep 2000 19:05:41 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #437 built 2000-Sep-5) X-Path: home.com!cecnralph From: cecnralph To: Bungi Glass Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Subject: Re: Questions from a novice Date: Tue, 05 Sep 2000 21:56:14 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>> Organization: Grendel Studio Precedence: bulk Let me second that and add, I have two small bent nosed pliers which I wouldn't be without. Get them at a craft shop like Michaels, Crafts Plus etc. tuka@attcanada.net wrote: > Welcome from me as well.... > > A couple of tools I have found to be invaluable are a pair of metal > carpenter's squares (used to true up small projects while soldering) and a > pair of needle nose pliers > > Shiela > > Hello Jonathan and welcome--Things to buy next that I like to use--well, > I'd second the suggestion of the small Morton cutting surface. Its > invaluable. Also, you might want to get a cork backed steel ruler and a > special plastic T with ledge made to rest glass against. Both are useful > when you need to cut straight lines. > > My teacher taught us to use a glass file to smooth sharp edges after > cutting. This plus grozing and running pliers worked for her, no > grinders needed. The other thing I've found really handy is a product > called "Gloves in a Bottle". Use just a drop on clean hands and it forms > a protective layer that works to keep flux spatters from burning your > hands. It has hand lotion ingredients and is harmless. > > Good luck and don't hesitate to keep asking questions. There are lots of > helpful people out there > > Nancy G > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass -- ********************************************************************* * Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood and/or Ralph Bernard Wood * Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy) ********************************************************************* ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Sep 5 22:03:22 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 5 Sep 2000 21:53:21 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #437 built 2000-Sep-5) X-Path: aol.com!Bobfuses From: Bobfuses@aol.com To: toby@northlights.co.uk, glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Subject: Re: Solder, Glass Manufacturers, and basic tools and a PS (Was:Questions from... Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 00:52:13 EDT Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk In a message dated 9/5/00 4:35:25 PM Pacific Daylight Time, toby@northlights.co.uk writes: > PS have others found that the color stability of Bullseye is less > than satisfactory when fusing and slumping? I sure have and avoid Bullseye like the plague for fusing. I once bought a square foot of Bullseye tested compatible whispy pink for a lot of $s, fused it and produced a BROWN rose. Then used cheap Spectrum whispy pink and fused up a fine rose. In my experience, opacity will increase with the degree of fusing with most glass. Hot colors like red, yellow and pink may shift to something nasty. Spectrum and Desag seem to hold up the best. Cheers, Bob in 9 2 0 2 6 Learn from the mistakes of others. You can't live long enough to make them all yourself. ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Sep 6 00:50:35 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 6 Sep 2000 00:42:27 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #438 built 2000-Sep-5) X-Path: arrakis.es!kiram From: "Kira Mason" To: "bungi" Subject: re:questions from a novice Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 09:38:13 +0200 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk Hi and welcome, One thing I find very useful is a 1 1/2" cork board. I bought several pieces (about 1 1/2m2) and then cut them down to different sizes for different size projects. Obviously you can't use it for really big stuff but, for putting lamps, suncatchers, small windows toghether etc. it's great. It doesn't scratch the surface, holds the piece because it is pretty non-skid (cork) and takes pins really well to hold the piece together. Since it's lightweight it's easy to handle especially if you are working in reduced space or have to put it away after finishing for the day. I also use this surface to cut on. Here (in Spain) I haven't found a "Morton's cutting surface" So, I use the cork (easy on your cutter) and an old paint brush to clean scraps after I cut. Kira ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Sep 6 02:03:00 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 6 Sep 2000 01:51:20 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #438 built 2000-Sep-5) X-Path: iofm.net!art.forall From: "Art For All" To: "GLASS Bungi" Content-Type: multipart/alternative; Subject: American Goodies!! Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 09:49:40 +0100 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_005D_01C017E7.C67DEEC0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi All I am taking a months holiday in the Georgia, South Carolina and probably = northern Florida area, in November and wondered if anyone could give me = some pointers about good glass and associated goodies suppliers in the = area. =20 I usually haunt Michaels and stumble on some other places by shear = accident but guidance would be nice. If I can't buy everything I would = like to, due to transport difficulties, I can at least drool over it = all. Also any places that sell or display unusual copper foil glass = work. It is nice to compare other peoples ideas and techniques. As one of my other hobbies is geology, my bags would yield some strange = finds if the customs ever searched me!! Regards Mike ------=_NextPart_000_005D_01C017E7.C67DEEC0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hi All
 
I am taking a months holiday in the = Georgia, South=20 Carolina and probably northern Florida area, in November and wondered if = anyone=20 could give me some pointers about good glass and associated goodies = suppliers in=20 the area. 
I usually haunt Michaels and stumble on = some other=20 places by shear accident but guidance would be nice.  If I can't = buy=20 everything I would like to, due to transport difficulties, I = can at=20 least drool over it all.  Also any places that sell or display = unusual=20 copper foil glass work.  It is nice to compare other peoples ideas = and=20 techniques.
 
As one of my other hobbies is geology, = my bags=20 would yield some strange finds if the customs ever searched = me!!
 
Regards
Mike
------=_NextPart_000_005D_01C017E7.C67DEEC0-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Sep 6 02:20:06 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 6 Sep 2000 02:00:46 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #438 built 2000-Sep-5) X-Path: pop.nad.adelphia.net!alewis From: "Albert Lewis" To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Re: Pictures Summary: Authenticated sender is Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 05:00:21 +0000 Message-ID: Precedence: bulk > > For those who are interested,..the baby photos are at > > www.bungi.com/glass She's a beauty, Glenna. Good work! She'll be even more beautiful when she overcomes that wadded-up look we all have at the start. Albert ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Sep 6 04:05:49 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 6 Sep 2000 03:56:09 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #438 built 2000-Sep-5) X-Path: aol.com!Wskyrnr21 From: Wskyrnr21@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Subject: patina Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 06:48:30 EDT Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk Does anyone have experience with the Jax products? In particular the copper plating solution? I have heard numerous comments about the stuff but am interested if it really works well. I have the pewter and would like to use it in combo with the copper plating solution first what do you think? Thanks Kevin ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Sep 6 08:36:57 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 6 Sep 2000 08:26:42 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #438 built 2000-Sep-5) X-Path: sympatico.ca!tandg.higson From: Gillian Higson To: cecnralph Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: Re: Questions from a novice Date: Wed, 06 Sep 2000 11:47:04 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>> Precedence: bulk I have two needle nose pliers. They make it easier to twist small pieces of wire or came. Regards Gillian cecnralph wrote: > Let me second that and add, I have two small bent nosed pliers which I > wouldn't be without. Get them at a craft shop like Michaels, Crafts Plus > etc. > > tuka@attcanada.net wrote: > > > Welcome from me as well.... > > > > A couple of tools I have found to be invaluable are a pair of metal > > carpenter's squares (used to true up small projects while soldering) and a > > pair of needle nose pliers > > > > Shiela > > > > Hello Jonathan and welcome--Things to buy next that I like to use--well, > > I'd second the suggestion of the small Morton cutting surface. Its > > invaluable. Also, you might want to get a cork backed steel ruler and a > > special plastic T with ledge made to rest glass against. Both are useful > > when you need to cut straight lines. > > > > My teacher taught us to use a glass file to smooth sharp edges after > > cutting. This plus grozing and running pliers worked for her, no > > grinders needed. The other thing I've found really handy is a product > > called "Gloves in a Bottle". Use just a drop on clean hands and it forms > > a protective layer that works to keep flux spatters from burning your > > hands. It has hand lotion ingredients and is harmless. > > > > Good luck and don't hesitate to keep asking questions. There are lots of > > helpful people out there > > > > Nancy G > > ---- > > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > > > > ---- > > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > > -- > ********************************************************************* > * Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood and/or Ralph Bernard Wood > * Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy) > ********************************************************************* > > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Sep 6 08:37:15 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 6 Sep 2000 08:33:01 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #438 built 2000-Sep-5) X-Path: eBeautyWatch.com!Sue_Neaman.EBEAUTYWATCH From: Sue_Neaman.EBEAUTYWATCH@eBeautyWatch.com To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Subject: In a quaint little shop in Florida I found ...... Date: Sat, 2 Sep 2000 23:32:48 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk THE PLANT OF IMMORTALITY! I was recently in Florida and came across a quaint old shop, selling a special moisturizing cream. It is quite an extraordinary product. It is called Corium 21 and contains genuine Barbadenzis Miller aloe. Th= at particular Aloe has the most potent healing properties of any in the wo= rld. As a matter of fact the aloe vera plant, whose name means 'shiny bitter= substance,' was widely regarded as the master healing plant. The ancien= t Egyptians referred to aloe as 'the plant of immortality' and included i= t among the funerary gifts buried with the pharaohs. In recent decades, medical research has confirmed and extended many of the health claims f= or the shiny bitter substance (used topically or consumed as a liquid) th= at is the heart of the aloe. It is assuring to know Corium 21 is 100% natural and safe and your skin= will drink it up! Reaching an amazing seven layers deep, the pure aloe= vera in Corium 21 softens your skin, dilates the tiny capillaries to increase circulation (which carries away toxins) and stimulates and rep= airs your skin at the cellular level. Corium 21 penetrates so quickly and deeply into the skin that it cannot be washed off. Try Corium 21 moisturizing and Healing Cr=E8me with the most potent alo= e vera in the world and never have dry skin again. Your satisfaction is guaranteed. Email me at sue@eBeautyWatch.com and I will send further information an= d how to purchase Corium 21, or call (317) 916-1879. Sincerely, e BeautyWatch, Corp. Sue Neaman, President If you'd rather not receive future e-mails from e BeautyWatch Corp. sen= d an email back to remove@ebeautywatch.com, and you will be removed.= ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Sep 6 09:13:36 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 6 Sep 2000 09:03:27 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #438 built 2000-Sep-5) X-Path: gdi.net!shodge From: Skip Hodge To: GlassByDes@aol.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: Re: Fwd: New to the list Date: Wed, 06 Sep 2000 11:36:59 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>> Precedence: bulk GlassByDes@aol.com wrote: > > Ruth, > Your problem seems a simple one. Clean with a flux remover. CJ'S is great. > Rinse-then dry, add patina then wax. Do not wax before you add the patina. > Bob M > Glass By Design, Inc > Ft Lauderdale, FL > Stained Glass by Glass By > Design > > --------------------------------------------------------------- > > Subject: New to the list > Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2000 20:25:19 EDT > From: PookyPook@aol.com > To: glass@bungi.com > > Hi, I am new to the list. Seems like a great bunch of people here! I have > been doing glass for about 3 or 4 years. I really, really love doing it. I > have other hobbies, but this seems to be the most satisfying. I have just > started after taking a year off.. I got a new puppy which would not be good > around it, hence I stopped. He is now fine around it.. turned a year old in > August. So, I am back! > > Got a question..... How do I get a really good, consistent, copper patina > look? Mine looks fine, generally, but not as good as I would like. Here is > what I do, I clean the flux off with flux cleaner, wash the glass piece, > clean the solder with Kem-O-Pro Stained Glass Finishing Compound, patina it, > clean it again with the Kem-O-Pro or Simichrome if it is copper. And it > usually is fine, but not consistent with the "shine" through out... what am I > missing? This is the way I was taught. I live in Kokomo, Indiana and took > classes at the Kokomo Opolescent place. While I like their glass, I do find > a lot of it much harder to cut, especially the black. And, they tend to be > higher priced than other places. > > Also, what is the best rule of thumb for pricing? I have recently gotten > oodles of orders and am curious. I was told I am waaaay to low, but hate to > over charge. Would love some feedback. An example piece would be a suncatcher > about 10 inches long and about 6 or 7 inches wide. > > Thanks in advance for any and all help. > > Ruth > pookypook@AOL.com > http://members.aol.com/RTSkeeter > http://members.aol.com/Alyeska222 > ICQ11716411 > "Ever stop to think and forget to start again?" > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass Hey Bob, One thing you may want to try. If you are useing Copper Patina try waxing before you put the patina on. The difference is amazing. Then wax again lightly. Skip Southern Exposure Stained Glass Supply, Inc. ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Sep 6 09:35:40 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 6 Sep 2000 09:15:32 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #438 built 2000-Sep-5) X-Path: mindspring.com!cholloway From: Craig Holloway To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Subject: Lost website Date: Wed, 06 Sep 2000 12:10:59 -0400 Message-ID: <1.5.4.32.20000906161059.0067158c@pop.mindspring.com> Precedence: bulk Help! I came across a website that featured 3d stain glass square rig sailing ships. I thought I marked the site but I cannot find it. Can anyone point me to the site? Craig ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Sep 6 11:36:35 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 6 Sep 2000 11:10:07 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #438 built 2000-Sep-5) X-Path: aol.com!GlassByDes From: GlassByDes@aol.com To: shodge@gdi.net, glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Subject: Re: New to the list Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 13:58:44 EDT Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk It seems Skip and I differ. Try my way then Skips. Evelyn has been know to use 0000 steel wool on the lead lines prio to patina. After cleaning with CJ's and Prio to Patina. Let me know which way turns out better for you. Bob Glass By Design ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Sep 6 11:45:05 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 6 Sep 2000 11:14:20 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #438 built 2000-Sep-5) X-Path: aol.com!GlassByDes From: GlassByDes@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="part1_42.a59e9f0.26e7e26e_boundary" Subject: Fwd: Lost website Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 14:09:50 EDT Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk --part1_42.a59e9f0.26e7e26e_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Craig, I do not know the name of the site but that 3-d sail boat is in a book called Glass Whirls II which retails for 24.95. There are some neat 3d patterns in this Book. Bob M Glass By Design, Inc. Stained Glass by Glass By Design --part1_42.a59e9f0.26e7e26e_boundary Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Received: from rly-yg02.mx.aol.com (rly-yg02.mail.aol.com [172.18.147.2]) by air-yg01.mail.aol.com (v75_b3.11) with ESMTP; Wed, 06 Sep 2000 12:36:47 -0400 Received: from daver.bungi.com (daver.bungi.com [207.126.97.2]) by rly-yg02.mx.aol.com (v75_b3.9) with ESMTP; Wed, 06 Sep 2000 12:36:24 -0400 Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 6 Sep 2000 09:15:32 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #438 built 2000-Sep-5) X-Path: mindspring.com!cholloway From: Craig Holloway To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Subject: Lost website Date: Wed, 06 Sep 2000 12:10:59 -0400 Message-ID: <1.5.4.32.20000906161059.0067158c@pop.mindspring.com> Precedence: bulk X-Mailer: Unknown Help! I came across a website that featured 3d stain glass square rig sailing ships. I thought I marked the site but I cannot find it. Can anyone point me to the site? Craig ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass --part1_42.a59e9f0.26e7e26e_boundary-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Sep 6 13:20:37 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 6 Sep 2000 13:00:19 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #438 built 2000-Sep-5) X-Path: bungi.com!gjr From: Glenna Rand To: glass@daver.bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: Ooops - baby website Date: Wed, 06 Sep 2000 11:38:59 -0700 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk Hi folks, Apparently I sent you the incorrect website to view the baby.... it should read www.bungi.com/baby Sorry...Glenna ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Sep 6 14:02:46 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 6 Sep 2000 13:57:11 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #439 built 2000-Sep-6) X-Path: ix.netcom.com!gunnx4 From: Suzanne Gunn To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: re: Patina Date: Wed, 06 Sep 2000 15:49:50 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk Hi Keven. Here are Jim Gonzales notes from last years (99)Glass Visions workshop by Joe Porchelli. (Jim takes better notes than I did) Hope this helps. Suzanne The following was written by Jim Gonzales. Here are my notes from Joe Porcelli's Saturday seminar on patina. Disclaimer: These are my notes from Joe's seminar. It's been over 25 years since I've sat in a college classroom and had to take notes and the papers I have in front of me prove it. They are covered with boxes and lines as well as writing that I'm having a hard time reading. Preface: Joe said many times that these are his methods/recommendations. If you are unsure of something test it first with a scrap piece. Joe was very candid and answered every question presented (there were quite a few). General: The following lists the ability of various metals used by SG artist to accept a patina (from worst to best): lead tin brass copper bronze This is why a 60/40 solder takes a patina better than 50/50. Safety note, Joe gave no additional safety warnings other then to say that all the chemicals he mentions are relatively safe (as well as relatively dangerous) but manufacturer safety recommendations should always be followed. Oxidation is the villain of patina, oxidized pieces yield unpredictable results (everyone is familiar with the white chalky powdery oxidation that appears on solder lines). It is best to patina right after soldering but if you can't Joe recommends that the cleaned/dry piece be placed in a plastic bag to protect it from oxidizing elements. If the piece becomes lightly oxidized Joe recommended cleaning with 0000 steel wool to remove the oxidation. For heavily oxidized pieces he recommends a chemical cleaner (Jax Metal Cleaner). Joe stressed many times that the process of applying a patina is a chemical reaction and any material other then the solder and patina could produce unexpected results. Joe recommends the following: 1. Use only a water soluble flux and water soluble patinas. 2. Clean with only water - no soaps or chemicals as they may leave a residual which could produce undesired results. I can't say how many times he said this. In response to every question on the subject he gave the same answer - Use water soluble flux; wash with water. Everyone asked him about this cleaning method or that chemical, but his response was always the same. Joe said to be careful with iridescent glass as fluxes/patinas could cause the glass to cloud as they react with the metals in the iridescent glass. If you have a piece that this has happened to, he suggests trying to cover the piece with a light coat of satin finish laquar - Use a high quality laquar. This might return the luster to the iridescent glass. Best to test with a piece of scrap glass before applying chemicals. Black Patina: Do NOT use Simichrome polish on pieces with black patina - it will remove the patina. Use a paste wax instead. If the black patina flakes off as it's being applied STOP. Clean up the piece using 0000 steel wool, wash and dry. Cut the patina with a little water to weaken the solution and apply. For a deeper black add a pinch of salt. You know those Italian cooks it's always a pinch of this and a pinch of that. Brown Patina: To get a brown patina Joe recommends that two patinas be layered (not mixed) as follows: 1. When finished soldering clean the piece with water and dry. 2. Apply a copper sulfate patina. 3. Wash with water and dry. 4. Cut a black patina 4 to 1 with water (4 parts patina/ 1 part water). 5. Apply cut black patina to darken the copper, when desired color is reached rinse with water. Green/Brown Patina: The commercial green patinas will only work on Copper and Bronze, to get a green patina we must first apply a copper coat to our piece. There are 2 ways to do this: 1. Electroplate - Take your cleaned piece to a metal plater and ask them to apply a 4 mil thickness of copper plating. Look in the yellow pages - he recommends someone who is use to working with antiques as they are more likely to recognize the one of a kind nature of Stained Glass art and provide the necessary precautions. Be careful with iridescent glass as the metal in the finish could cause the entire piece of iridescent glass to become plated. Test first. After plating apply the Green patina. Wash and dry. Mix 8oz of Brown patina with 1 tsp. white vinegar and apply to piece. When desired color is reached rinse and dry. 2. Chemical - This is a multi-step process that can be done in the shop or home. Joe recommends 3 products - Jax Copper Plating Solution, Jax Green Patina and Jax Brown Patina. The process is: a. Clean, rinse and dry the piece. b. Apply the Copper plating solution. When you are done it will look awful (a blotchy pink and copper color). Rinse and dry. c. Use 0000 steel wool to remove ALL the finish just applied. Return the piece to bare metal. Rinse and dry. d. Apply a second coat of Copper plating solution, the piece should look like a new penny when done. Rinse and dry. e. Apply the green patina, it could take 10 to 15 minutes for a color change. Stop when desired color is reached. Rinse and dry. f. Apply the Brown patina (without the vinegar described above). It could take 20 to 30 minutes to see color change. When desired color rinse and dry. Repeat as needed. g. Apply a light coat of high grade Semi-gloss laquar to seal color as it can be rubbed off. Wax and buff. That was about all from Saturday. I did not attend the seminar on Sunday but believe he did add some items to his talk. Jim ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Sep 6 14:37:03 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 6 Sep 2000 14:13:22 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #439 built 2000-Sep-6) X-Path: home.net!esavad From: "Mike Savad" To: , Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: RE: patina Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 17:11:16 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>> Precedence: bulk it does work, but only if the solder is very, very clean and flux free. wear gloves and a respirator and use a fan. or find someone you really hate and have them absorb the fumes... the brown works pretty well on the copper, but can pull off. green, only works on real copper. and the peweter matches lead really well. it's the only patina a friend of mine uses for his lead windows. ---Mike Savad Mike's Stained Glass - Tips Tricks Photos http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141 4-6-2000 New Pages Added: 1 new tip page: Help buying stained glass, updated info on the about me page, and 3 window set's for skycity. Including lot's of new links, and more FREE PATTERN links. > -----Original Message----- > From: Wskyrnr21@aol.com [mailto:Wskyrnr21@aol.com] > Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2000 6:49 AM > To: glass@bungi.com > Subject: patina > > > Does anyone have experience with the Jax products? In particular > the copper > plating solution? I have heard numerous comments about the stuff but am > interested if it really works well. I have the pewter and would > like to use > it in combo with the copper plating solution first what do you think? > > Thanks Kevin > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Sep 6 14:45:40 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 6 Sep 2000 14:34:55 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #439 built 2000-Sep-6) X-Path: aol.com!PookyPook From: PookyPook@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Subject: Thanks on Patina Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 17:31:40 EDT Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk Wow! Thanks again guys!! What a response!! Some wonderful tips! Since I was the one who opened this discussion I will try the different methods suggested and let you know what I like and don't like... Now, to get busy!! I am soooo glad I found you guys!! I am on a lot of different lists, but missed having a stained glass one. I will let you guys know as soon as I get the photos of some of my projects up on my web page.. Ruth pookypook@AOL.com http://members.aol.com/RTSkeeter http://members.aol.com/Alyeska222 ICQ11716411 "Ever stop to think and forget to start again?" ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Sep 6 15:15:26 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 6 Sep 2000 15:06:19 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #439 built 2000-Sep-6) X-Path: freegraphics.com!webmaster From: "Claire Amundsen Schaeffer" To: "Craig Holloway" , Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Re: Lost website Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 18:01:39 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> References: <<1.5.4.32.20000906161059.0067158c@pop.mindspring.com>> Precedence: bulk >>> I came across a website that featured 3d stain glass square rig sailing ships. I thought I marked the site but I cannot find it. Can anyone point me to the site?<<< http://www.debrady.com/ Claire -------- GlassJumps.com http://www.glassjumps.com/ Links to 100+ Glass Resources ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Sep 6 19:25:24 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 6 Sep 2000 19:05:54 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #439 built 2000-Sep-6) X-Path: worldnet.att.net!Moya-Don From: "D. ONeal" To: Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Re: Mike's American Goodies!! Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 20:41:47 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk Mike, You might like to consider Western North Carolina in your plans if you are a geology nut. There is so much here. Franklin,NC is the ruby capital of the US. There are many mines that are native and some that are salted (where you can always find some goodies!) I use a lot of agate slices in my glass as well as river rock, etc.. If interested, you can write to me off Bungi. Moya ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Sep 6 19:30:26 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 6 Sep 2000 19:05:33 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #439 built 2000-Sep-6) X-Path: worldnet.att.net!Moya-Don From: "D. ONeal" To: Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Newbie Ruth Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 20:18:09 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk Welcome Ruth, I have great luck with copper patina if I clean my project well with flux remover, then wash well with soap and water to which a little ammonia has been added. Then be sure and rinse all the soap off. Apply your patina (before using Kem-o-Pro) and let it sit for a few minutes before rinsing. Then use your polish and voila, a beautiful, homogenous polished copper finish. Enjoy! Moya ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Sep 6 20:03:47 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 6 Sep 2000 19:53:41 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #439 built 2000-Sep-6) X-Path: pro-ns.net!jdahlin From: "J. Dahlin" To: Claire Amundsen Schaeffer Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: Re: Lost website Date: Wed, 06 Sep 2000 21:46:21 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>> Precedence: bulk Thanks for sharing. Those are really unique ships. I can't imagine how many hours each of them would take to create. Joanne Dahlin ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Sep 7 07:04:03 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 7 Sep 2000 06:51:50 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #439 built 2000-Sep-6) X-Path: arrakis.es!kiram From: "Kira Mason" To: "bungi" Subject: Stained Glass Sun-Catchers (http://www.familyeducation.com/article/0,1120,2-132 Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 15:47:36 +0200 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk Hi group, I just came across this today. I know there have been discussions about teaching or showing young children how to do stained glass, do's and don'ts because of many factors... If any of you out there have one like mine (3 yr.-old) who is constantly asking me when she can cut glass like me, well, this sounds great for lil'ones! Or for people teaching... Kira Stained Glass Sun-Catchers Jill Dvornik An Imagination Station Activity Age: Three and up Time: An hour or more Type of Activity: Arts and crafts With spring just around the corner, it's time to let the sun shine in! These stained glass sun-catchers will turn any room in your house into a kaleidoscope of color. Hey parents... She thinks it's all fun and games, but this activity will help your child express her creativity, and teach her to identify shapes and colors. Materials needed: Tupperware covers or clear drink lids. Clear mosaic tiles in assorted shapes and colors (these can be bought at any craft store). You can also use colored tissue paper that has been cut into shapes. Ribbon. Clear glue. Scissors. Hole puncher. What to do: Step One Punch a hole at the top of the lid. Any Ideas? Do you have any ideas you'd like to share for a future project? Why not add one to our suggestion box. Step Two Set out the supplies, and let your child create a design with the mosaics (or tissue paper cut-outs) on the lid. Step Three Glue the mosaics to the lid. Allow them to dry on completely. Step Four Cut a piece of ribbon, and string it through the hole. You can help her by making a nice bow at the top. Step Five Find a sunny spot to hang your project so it can catch some rays! You'll find more activities in our Imagination Station file cabinet. Stop by and discover what you can create with your kids! www.familyeducation.com ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Sep 7 09:18:13 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 7 Sep 2000 09:09:49 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #440 built 2000-Sep-7) X-Path: mindspring.com!cholloway From: Craig Holloway To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Subject: Thanks Date: Thu, 07 Sep 2000 11:39:44 -0400 Message-ID: <1.5.4.32.20000907153944.006845e4@pop.mindspring.com> Precedence: bulk Thank's all of you who came to my aid. Craig ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Sep 7 10:02:10 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 7 Sep 2000 09:49:43 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #440 built 2000-Sep-7) X-Path: iafrica.com!charcol From: Colin Pinker To: glass bungi Content-Type: multipart/alternative; Subject: Where did I go wrong???? Date: Thu, 07 Sep 2000 18:43:23 +0200 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_001F_01C018FB.80215560 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi All, =20 I have just tried to complete an 8 panel lamp with a diamond shape = jutting out of the centre bottom of each panel. I tried, 4 times, to = put the lamp together and after the 5th try, I was ready to personally = smash the hole lamp. =20 I tried various methods, once tack soldering and then pulling all 8 = panels up. The foil kept on pulling away in certain stress areas.I then = stripped all panels of foil, washed well with warm soapy water, = refoiled, and this time tried with masking tape, making x's across all = panels, tack soldered, and this also did not work - foil pulled lose = again. Stripped, washed etc. I then tried working from the inside, = tack soldering two panels at a time, turning right side up, shaping and = bending to get a shape with the two panels, more fixed soldering on = right side and then repeating the process on the other panels - I now = had four panels that were fairly firm, I then tried to put these four = panels together, but with a lamp that was fairly large i.e. each panel = size was approx 6inches tapering to 2inches and 12 inches long, I was = all thumbs (I did at this point have an extra pair of hands holding) = whilst I was trying to solder quickly - but, alas, once again, in places = the foil started pulling away. =20 Let me just mention, that after grinding each piece, I did wash and dry = each piece individually before foiling. Where did I go wrong????? I spoke to the person that originally taught = me stained glass and he felt that I should only have fitted the jutting = diamond after completing the whole lamp. Can this possibly be the only = reason for my difficulty!!! Any advise would be appreciated. Regards Charmaine Pinker ------=_NextPart_000_001F_01C018FB.80215560 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hi All,
 
I have just tried to complete an 8 = panel lamp=20 with a diamond shape jutting out of the centre bottom of each = panel.  I=20 tried, 4 times, to put the lamp together and after the 5th try, I was = ready to=20 personally smash the hole lamp.  
 
I tried various methods, once tack = soldering and=20 then pulling all 8 panels up.  The foil kept on pulling away in = certain=20 stress areas.I then stripped all panels of foil, washed well with warm = soapy=20 water, refoiled, and this time tried with masking tape, making x's = across all=20 panels,  tack soldered, and this also did not work - foil pulled = lose=20 again.  Stripped, washed etc.  I then tried working from the = inside,=20 tack soldering two panels at a time, turning right side up, shaping and = bending=20 to get a shape with the two panels, more fixed soldering on right side = and then=20 repeating the process on the other panels - I now had four panels that = were=20 fairly firm, I then tried to put these four panels together, but with a = lamp=20 that was fairly large i.e. each panel size was approx 6inches tapering = to=20 2inches and 12 inches long, I was all thumbs (I did at this point have = an extra=20 pair of hands holding) whilst I was trying to solder quickly - but, = alas, once=20 again, in places the foil started pulling away. 
 
Let me just mention, that after grinding each piece, = I did=20 wash and dry each piece individually before foiling.
 
Where did I go wrong?????  I spoke to the = person that=20 originally taught me stained glass and he felt that I should only have = fitted=20 the jutting diamond after completing the whole lamp.  Can this = possibly be=20 the only reason for my difficulty!!!
 
Any advise would be appreciated.
 
Regards
Charmaine Pinker
------=_NextPart_000_001F_01C018FB.80215560-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Sep 7 13:32:06 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 7 Sep 2000 13:07:54 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #441 built 2000-Sep-7) X-Path: home.com!crystalsky7 From: Crystal Llords To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: Armstrong Glass Date: Thu, 07 Sep 2000 16:03:28 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Organization: @Home Network Member Precedence: bulk Hi Bob, Moya, Candy and all others that have been following the glass = discussion on where Armstrong Glass is manufactured. 100% of Armstrong = Glass is very proudly made in Jasper, Georgia. The Chinese have been = knocking off our glass now for three years. Not only are they copying = our designs, they use our same stock numbers. They are in fact, = "pirating" Armstrong Glass. Our glass is not being imitated because it = is easy to duplicate, but rather, because our colors are so unique. The = Chinese have not learned why our glass has such a brilliant sheen so it = is easy to spot a fake.=20 Somebody made a comment about what difference it makes whether the glass = is manufactured in China or manufactured in the U.S. If the U.S. glass = companies stop making glass, what you see is what you get, forever! The = Chinese imitate but never inovate. =20 The U.S. glass manufacturers spend hundreds of thousands of dollars = every year on advertising and promotion, teaching, R & D, customer = service and design. The Chinese simply copy the design, pay their labor = $1.00 per day and it's off to the races. This glass is poorly annealed, = often does not even transmit light, and is very inconsistent in color = and mix. Regarding Bob's comment on seeing crates of "Armstrong Glass, Made in = China", you were not seeing things. These cases of glass clearly show = the bold faced deception that is going on in our industry. And by the = way, there are wholesalers that stock this glass with no mention of it's = origin. I hope this helps clear up any confusion. Feel free to e-mail me or = call us at (706) 692-7660. For a complete list of our hard working and = trusted wholesalers check our distributor list at = www.armstrongglass.com. =20 Sincerely, Michael Larson President, Armstrong Glass Company =20 ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Sep 7 14:02:56 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 7 Sep 2000 13:55:54 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #441 built 2000-Sep-7) X-Path: home.net!esavad From: "Mike Savad" To: "Colin Pinker" , Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: RE: Where did I go wrong???? Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 16:54:04 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>> Precedence: bulk tape the whole thing together. prop it up and tape it. then tack, and solder. the solder holds things in place. it holds where it was tacked down. the solder doesn't stretch (in this case). the lamp needs to have space at the edges (as in 2 corners meet, and the top parts are open... visualization: 2 tables - corner to corner. these are your pieces. if you get these two tables and place them end to end - then sit in between them, you fall when you move the tables. only in this case your glued really well to the table, in either case something has to give, and in this case it's the foil. ---Mike Savad Mike's Stained Glass - Tips Tricks Photos http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141 4-6-2000 New Pages Added: 1 new tip page: Help buying stained glass, updated info on the about me page, and 3 window set's for skycity. Including lot's of new links, and more FREE PATTERN links. > -----Original Message----- > From: Colin Pinker [mailto:charcol@iafrica.com] > Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2000 12:43 PM > To: glass bungi > Subject: Where did I go wrong???? > > > This is a multi-part message in MIME format. > > ------=_NextPart_000_001F_01C018FB.80215560 > Content-Type: text/plain; > charset="iso-8859-1" > Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable > > Hi All, > =20 > I have just tried to complete an 8 panel lamp with a diamond shape = > jutting out of the centre bottom of each panel. I tried, 4 times, to = > put the lamp together and after the 5th try, I was ready to personally = > smash the hole lamp. =20 > > I tried various methods, once tack soldering and then pulling all 8 = > panels up. The foil kept on pulling away in certain stress areas.I then = > stripped all panels of foil, washed well with warm soapy water, = > refoiled, and this time tried with masking tape, making x's across all = > panels, tack soldered, and this also did not work - foil pulled lose = > again. Stripped, washed etc. I then tried working from the inside, = > tack soldering two panels at a time, turning right side up, shaping and = > bending to get a shape with the two panels, more fixed soldering on = > right side and then repeating the process on the other panels - I now = > had four panels that were fairly firm, I then tried to put these four = > panels together, but with a lamp that was fairly large i.e. each panel = > size was approx 6inches tapering to 2inches and 12 inches long, I was = > all thumbs (I did at this point have an extra pair of hands holding) = > whilst I was trying to solder quickly - but, alas, once again, in places = > the foil started pulling away. =20 > > Let me just mention, that after grinding each piece, I did wash and dry = > each piece individually before foiling. > > Where did I go wrong????? I spoke to the person that originally taught = > me stained glass and he felt that I should only have fitted the jutting = > diamond after completing the whole lamp. Can this possibly be the only = > reason for my difficulty!!! > > Any advise would be appreciated. > > Regards > Charmaine Pinker > > ------=_NextPart_000_001F_01C018FB.80215560 > Content-Type: text/html; > charset="iso-8859-1" > Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable > > > > > > http-equiv=3DContent-Type> > > > >
Hi All,
>
 
>
I have just tried to complete an 8 = > panel lamp=20 > with a diamond shape jutting out of the centre bottom of each = > panel.  I=20 > tried, 4 times, to put the lamp together and after the 5th try, I was = > ready to=20 > personally smash the hole lamp.  
>
 
>
I tried various methods, once tack = > soldering and=20 > then pulling all 8 panels up.  The foil kept on pulling away in = > certain=20 > stress areas.I then stripped all panels of foil, washed well with warm = > soapy=20 > water, refoiled, and this time tried with masking tape, making x's = > across all=20 > panels,  tack soldered, and this also did not work - foil pulled = > lose=20 > again.  Stripped, washed etc.  I then tried working from the = > inside,=20 > tack soldering two panels at a time, turning right side up, shaping and = > bending=20 > to get a shape with the two panels, more fixed soldering on right side = > and then=20 > repeating the process on the other panels - I now had four panels that = > were=20 > fairly firm, I then tried to put these four panels together, but with a = > lamp=20 > that was fairly large i.e. each panel size was approx 6inches tapering = > to=20 > 2inches and 12 inches long, I was all thumbs (I did at this point have = > an extra=20 > pair of hands holding) whilst I was trying to solder quickly - but, = > alas, once=20 > again, in places the foil started pulling away. 
>
 
>
Let me just mention, that after grinding each piece, = > I did=20 > wash and dry each piece individually before foiling.
>
 
>
Where did I go wrong?????  I spoke to the = > person that=20 > originally taught me stained glass and he felt that I should only have = > fitted=20 > the jutting diamond after completing the whole lamp.  Can this = > possibly be=20 > the only reason for my difficulty!!!
>
 
>
Any advise would be appreciated.
>
 
>
Regards
>
Charmaine Pinker
> > ------=_NextPart_000_001F_01C018FB.80215560-- > > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Sep 7 15:33:21 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 7 Sep 2000 15:21:28 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #441 built 2000-Sep-7) X-Path: iconn.net!tbyrnes From: Tim Byrnes To: Bungi Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: Blank messages Date: Thu, 07 Sep 2000 18:19:43 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk Hi Folks, How does one go about printing out a message that has been sent in MIME Format, or is this not possible. Thanks, Tim -- Live easy, but think first. -- anonymous ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Sep 7 17:11:04 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 7 Sep 2000 17:06:08 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #441 built 2000-Sep-7) X-Path: pop.nad.adelphia.net!alewis From: "Albert Lewis" To: Tim Byrnes Subject: Re: Blank messages Summary: Authenticated sender is Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 20:05:34 +0000 Message-ID: Precedence: bulk > How does one go about printing out a message that has been sent in > MIME Format, or is this not possible. Thanks, Tim Yes, it's possible ... depending on what your mail software is. I use, for example, Pegasus Mail, so a MIME message appears first as text, then as HTML. You could just plough through the code and read the message well enough, you can just print it out, code and all, or you can "grab" by dragging your cursor over everything between (and including) and then save it as c:\temp.htm open your browser and type c:\temp.htm into the location bar and you'd be able to both read *and print it. Hope this helps. Albert (Personally, I wish everyone would just turn *off MIME and send clear text, but not everyone knows how, so I just live with it.) ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Sep 7 20:19:07 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 7 Sep 2000 20:03:08 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #441 built 2000-Sep-7) X-Path: worldnet.att.net!Moya-Don From: "D. ONeal" To: Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Re:Where did I go wrong? Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 21:14:20 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk Charmaine, Try soldering all 8 panels front and back leaving the outside (adjoining edges) lightly tinned. By having your individual panels ready to go, they will not pull apart. Be sure to clean each of them when you finish soldering. When all 8 are finished. Place the clean, dry panels face down with sides adjoining. Using strapping tape (the stuff with the nylon threads going through it) tape your panels together overlapping the tape. Do not join the 1st section to the 8th section yet--leave the panels flat. Now get something together to prop the shade on while you tack solder your seams. I use the lamp wedgies now, but have used a box stuffed with newspapers to support the shade while I soldered. I usually tape at the top and at the bottom. Be sure your placement is where it should be. Now, very carefully lift the sections up so that the panels rest on their tops. Slowly and carefully bring your 1st and 8 sections together and tape carefully. Lift into your box, or arrange the lamp wedgies around to support your panels. Quickly tack each section together and finish the adjoining seams inside and out. Be sure to solder a solid piece of thin wire all around the bottom of the shade for added strength. Hope this technique works for you. I know it sounds like a lot of work, but once you master it, it is not so bad. Good luck, Moya ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Sep 7 22:28:02 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 7 Sep 2000 22:05:20 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #441 built 2000-Sep-7) X-Path: alimac.com!till8er From: "Bev Kelly" To: "Colin Pinker" , Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Re: Where did I go wrong???? Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 21:53:44 -0700 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>> Precedence: bulk Strange I thought this was a message I sent out about a month ago, I had to check to see if it was from ME....here is what I was told to do and it worked....My lamp is being used and is beautiful! Reassemble the panels, leaving off the bevels on the bottom row **(I had already installed my bevels so I did not remove them, next one I will leave off). Lay out the panels in a semi-circle on your bench and securely tape the panels together. Gently raise the panels into a cone shape and tape the one remaining seam so that the lamp will be self-supporting. (Sometimes 4 hands are better than 2) Tack solder the top and bottom so that the tape can be removed. I usually use a box filled with crumbled newspapers to support the lamp, then lay it on it's side in the box, and flat solder the inside seams, and then rearrange the papers, rotating the lamp so that the outside seams are exposed and solder them. I would then attach the bevels one at a time after I got the lamp shade assembled. Others may have better suggestions, but this method has worked for me. and another piece from Alan Bev- This method works for me: Lay the pieces out, side by side, in a fan shape. Solder a continuous THIN piece of wire along the short edges, leaving a little spare at either end. Tack 5 short v-shaped pieces of wire to the other end of the fan, joining adjacent panels. Carefully lift the structure up into its proper shape, and join the ends of the fan. Tweak the pieces of wire, if necessary, to adjust the shape, then tack solder to give it strength enough to handle. You can leave the top wire in place if you want, but remove the lower pieces after tack-soldering. Be sure to use thin wire, or it will pull the tape off as you lift the lamp up into shape. Voila - another masterpiece!! Alan ----- Original Message ----- From: Colin Pinker To: glass bungi Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2000 9:43 AM Subject: Where did I go wrong???? > This is a multi-part message in MIME format. > > ------=_NextPart_000_001F_01C018FB.80215560 > Content-Type: text/plain; > charset="iso-8859-1" > Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable > > Hi All, > =20 > I have just tried to complete an 8 panel lamp with a diamond shape = > jutting out of the centre bottom of each panel. I tried, 4 times, to = > put the lamp together and after the 5th try, I was ready to personally = > smash the hole lamp. =20 > > I tried various methods, once tack soldering and then pulling all 8 = > panels up. The foil kept on pulling away in certain stress areas.I then = > stripped all panels of foil, washed well with warm soapy water, = > refoiled, and this time tried with masking tape, making x's across all = > panels, tack soldered, and this also did not work - foil pulled lose = > again. Stripped, washed etc. I then tried working from the inside, = > tack soldering two panels at a time, turning right side up, shaping and = > bending to get a shape with the two panels, more fixed soldering on = > right side and then repeating the process on the other panels - I now = > had four panels that were fairly firm, I then tried to put these four = > panels together, but with a lamp that was fairly large i.e. each panel = > size was approx 6inches tapering to 2inches and 12 inches long, I was = > all thumbs (I did at this point have an extra pair of hands holding) = > whilst I was trying to solder quickly - but, alas, once again, in places = > the foil started pulling away. =20 > > Let me just mention, that after grinding each piece, I did wash and dry = > each piece individually before foiling. > > Where did I go wrong????? I spoke to the person that originally taught = > me stained glass and he felt that I should only have fitted the jutting = > diamond after completing the whole lamp. Can this possibly be the only = > reason for my difficulty!!! > > Any advise would be appreciated. > > Regards > Charmaine Pinker > > ------=_NextPart_000_001F_01C018FB.80215560 > Content-Type: text/html; > charset="iso-8859-1" > Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable > > > > > > http-equiv=3DContent-Type> > > > >
Hi All,
>
 
>
I have just tried to complete an 8 = > panel lamp=20 > with a diamond shape jutting out of the centre bottom of each = > panel.  I=20 > tried, 4 times, to put the lamp together and after the 5th try, I was = > ready to=20 > personally smash the hole lamp.  
>
 
>
I tried various methods, once tack = > soldering and=20 > then pulling all 8 panels up.  The foil kept on pulling away in = > certain=20 > stress areas.I then stripped all panels of foil, washed well with warm = > soapy=20 > water, refoiled, and this time tried with masking tape, making x's = > across all=20 > panels,  tack soldered, and this also did not work - foil pulled = > lose=20 > again.  Stripped, washed etc.  I then tried working from the = > inside,=20 > tack soldering two panels at a time, turning right side up, shaping and = > bending=20 > to get a shape with the two panels, more fixed soldering on right side = > and then=20 > repeating the process on the other panels - I now had four panels that = > were=20 > fairly firm, I then tried to put these four panels together, but with a = > lamp=20 > that was fairly large i.e. each panel size was approx 6inches tapering = > to=20 > 2inches and 12 inches long, I was all thumbs (I did at this point have = > an extra=20 > pair of hands holding) whilst I was trying to solder quickly - but, = > alas, once=20 > again, in places the foil started pulling away. 
>
 
>
Let me just mention, that after grinding each piece, = > I did=20 > wash and dry each piece individually before foiling.
>
 
>
Where did I go wrong?????  I spoke to the = > person that=20 > originally taught me stained glass and he felt that I should only have = > fitted=20 > the jutting diamond after completing the whole lamp.  Can this = > possibly be=20 > the only reason for my difficulty!!!
>
 
>
Any advise would be appreciated.
>
 
>
Regards
>
Charmaine Pinker
> > ------=_NextPart_000_001F_01C018FB.80215560-- > > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Sep 8 08:51:25 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 8 Sep 2000 08:33:35 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #442 built 2000-Sep-8) X-Path: home.com!crystalsky7 From: Crystal Llords To: Molly Keys , glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: Re: Armstrong Glass AND APOLOGY Date: Fri, 08 Sep 2000 11:28:05 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> References: <<000801c01992$d08b8ce0$ceb8bfa8@default>> Organization: @Home Network Member Precedence: bulk Hi Molly, THIS IS THE REASON SOME BUNGI POSTS ARE 'BLANK' I picked up this message, and forwarded it to Bungi, as the Bungi mail server does not 'read' or transmit HTML messages. Consequently all you see is the sender "Michael", and subject line, the body of the message is blank. I translated it to plain ASCII text, and forward it to the bungi group, as I deemed it important enough to pass on. I just lurk on bungi, am sick and actually dying, have a couple more months according to the Doctor who I saw just this morning. Because I don't have the energy or will left to participate, I just lurk. I apologize at any misunderstanding this caused, however, I though it important enough to find the energy to do it. Michael put this message to bungi some time ago, but no one 'saw' it. So forgive the message header. I think some Spectrum is also being made in China, but I have not followed up on that, anD this may be incorrect. I will also forward this apology to bungi to clear up any misunderstanding. Best Wishes, Crystal Molly Keys wrote: > > Dear Michael, > > Thank you for your most enlightening letter concerning Armstrong Glass and > the mystery label glass. I was just at my wholesaler on Tuesday of this > week and was heartsick to find that they are no longer carrying your > glass(and I needed some) but had a majestic display of the Chinese glass. > For me it's a pride thing. I like being able to tell my customers that I > use glasses that are created and manufactured right here in the United > States. It will be a little difficult to call up the company in China to > find out if they have a specific glass in stock or when they will produce > it. I've done this with Armstrong and they have graciously helped me and > dropped shipped it and then billed my wholesaler then they have billed me. > So now I will be taking my business down the street to the new company in > town. > Enough of my ranting and raving. > Molly > Crystal Llords > To: glass@bungi.com > Date: Thursday, September 07, 2000 3:50 PM > Subject: Armstrong Glass > > >Hi Bob, Moya, Candy and all others that have been following the glass = > >discussion on where Armstrong Glass is manufactured. 100% of Armstrong > >= > >Glass is very proudly made in Jasper, Georgia. The Chinese have been = > >knocking off our glass now for three years. Not only are they copying = > >our designs, they use our same stock numbers. They are in fact, = > >"pirating" Armstrong Glass. Our glass is not being imitated because it = > >is easy to duplicate, but rather, because our colors are so unique. The > >= > >Chinese have not learned why our glass has such a brilliant sheen so it > >= > >is easy to spot a fake.=20 > > > >Somebody made a comment about what difference it makes whether the glass > >= > >is manufactured in China or manufactured in the U.S. If the U.S. glass > >= > >companies stop making glass, what you see is what you get, forever! The > >= > >Chinese imitate but never inovate. =20 > > > >The U.S. glass manufacturers spend hundreds of thousands of dollars = > >every year on advertising and promotion, teaching, R & D, customer = > >service and design. The Chinese simply copy the design, pay their labor > >= > >$1.00 per day and it's off to the races. This glass is poorly annealed, > >= > >often does not even transmit light, and is very inconsistent in color = > >and mix. > > > >Regarding Bob's comment on seeing crates of "Armstrong Glass, Made in = > >China", you were not seeing things. These cases of glass clearly show = > >the bold faced deception that is going on in our industry. And by the = > >way, there are wholesalers that stock this glass with no mention of it's > >= > >origin. > > > >I hope this helps clear up any confusion. Feel free to e-mail me or = > >call us at (706) 692-7660. For a complete list of our hard working and > >= > >trusted wholesalers check our distributor list at = > >www.armstrongglass.com. =20 > > > >Sincerely, > >Michael Larson > >President, Armstrong Glass Company =20 > >---- > >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > >To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Sep 8 09:58:31 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 8 Sep 2000 09:35:42 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #442 built 2000-Sep-8) X-Path: aol.com!GlassLites From: GlassLites@aol.com To: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Subject: Re: Where did I go wrong???? Date: Fri, 08 Sep 2000 12:30:25 EDT Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk I'll add my 2 cents worth, too. Once you have taped your pieces into the proper shape, tack solder the pieces together. Do not try to finish solder any pieces until they are all tacked together. I also agree with the recommendation to add a supporting wire around the diameter of the lamp. Cheryl Lowe ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Sep 8 13:55:39 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 8 Sep 2000 13:43:10 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #443 built 2000-Sep-8) X-Path: aol.com!ARTIZ01 From: ARTIZ01@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Subject: vgroove Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2000 16:37:47 EDT Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk looking for a company that does v groove glass designs. I need 2 done. One a cathedral arch and on an elipse. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Bunny ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Sep 8 20:30:08 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 8 Sep 2000 20:02:15 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #443 built 2000-Sep-8) X-Path: centurytel.net!Fortschultz From: Grant Schultz To: Kira Mason Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: Little "helpers" Date: Fri, 08 Sep 2000 22:05:51 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>> Organization: Sentury Insurance Precedence: bulk Hi Kira, I too have a 4 year old. She loves creating along with mom. She sits at a table nearby in the basement and creates her "Projects" .Usually she is watercoloring , gluing, drawing. I have just quit my job as an Art teacher so I guess I am a little lax about her projects and the messes. She has to wear shoes and follow rules when by me. I do not let her by my workbench when soldering and cutting. She does borrow my pieces I have cut or just foiled and use them in her "Collages", I have to pry the beautiful pieces out of her hands and wash the glue off. Once in awhile she takes them and puts my pieces ( that are nicely foiled) and puts them in the Barbie house. I REALLY feel a sense of acomplishment at the end of each one of my projects!:) Christy Kira Mason wrote: > Hi group, > I just came across this today. I know there have been discussions about > teaching or showing young children how to do stained glass, do's and don'ts > because of many factors... If any of you out there have one like mine (3 > yr.-old) who is constantly asking me when she can cut glass like me, well, > this sounds great for lil'ones! Or for people teaching... > Kira > > Stained Glass Sun-Catchers > Jill Dvornik > > An Imagination Station Activity > > Age: Three and up > Time: An hour or more > Type of Activity: Arts and crafts > > With spring just around the corner, it's time to let the sun shine in! These > stained glass sun-catchers will turn any room in your house into a > kaleidoscope of color. > > Hey parents... > She thinks it's all fun and games, but this activity will help your child > express her creativity, and teach her to identify shapes and colors. > > Materials needed: > > Tupperware covers or clear drink lids. > Clear mosaic tiles in assorted shapes and colors (these can be bought at any > craft store). You can also use colored tissue paper that has been cut into > shapes. > Ribbon. > Clear glue. > Scissors. > Hole puncher. > What to do: > > Step One Punch a hole at the top of the lid. > > Any Ideas? > Do you have any ideas you'd like to share for a future project? Why not add > one to our suggestion box. > Step Two Set out the supplies, and let your child create a design with the > mosaics (or tissue paper cut-outs) on the lid. > > Step Three Glue the mosaics to the lid. Allow them to dry on completely. > > Step Four Cut a piece of ribbon, and string it through the hole. You can > help her by making a nice bow at the top. > > Step Five Find a sunny spot to hang your project so it can catch some rays! > > You'll find more activities in our Imagination Station file cabinet. Stop by > and discover what you can create with your kids! > > www.familyeducation.com > > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Sep 8 23:03:30 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 8 Sep 2000 22:50:13 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #443 built 2000-Sep-8) X-Path: charter.net!jkwilliams From: "Kim and Jody Williams" To: Content-Type: multipart/alternative; Subject: Re: Where did I go wrong???? Date: Sat, 9 Sep 2000 00:45:02 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0027_01C019F7.301B83E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I use the black electrical tape to hold my panels together. It has a = little stretch so you can adjust the shape of your lamp without putting = a lot of strain on the foil. I agree that boxes with crumpled newspaper = work well. Good luck. A Touch of Glass Kim Williams jkwilliams@charter.net www.nconnect.net/~williams=20 ------=_NextPart_000_0027_01C019F7.301B83E0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I use the black electrical tape to hold my panels together. It has = a little=20 stretch so you can adjust the shape of your lamp without putting a lot = of strain=20 on the foil. I agree that boxes with crumpled newspaper work well.  = Good=20 luck.
 
A Touch of Glass
Kim Williams
jkwilliams@charter.net
------=_NextPart_000_0027_01C019F7.301B83E0-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Sep 9 00:34:24 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sat, 9 Sep 2000 00:09:26 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #443 built 2000-Sep-8) X-Path: uniserve.com!sparent From: Shirley To: Glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Subject: First Leaded Piece Date: Fri, 08 Sep 2000 23:48:52 -0700 Message-ID: Precedence: bulk I have a few questions I thought maybe you could help me with. I am in the process of making my first piece using lead and I am now ready to solder and putty. I have done copper foil for a couple of years now and feel it is time to move on. I am self taught mainly through the help of all you out there with your all your wonderful hints and advice but living in a small town I must ship in my supplies or drive many miles to buy so I bought one tin of Inland cement for my first project and just spent with the help of my husband, a very, very long time mixing it up. I know, I know, make it myself as it is cheaper and better but here are my questions. 1. Is calcium carbonate something I should be able to buy even in a small town? 2. What exactly is lamp black? We have something called stove black that you use to make your wood stove look lovely after years of use. Is this the same thing? 3. Should your putty be the consistency of pancake batter or peanut butter? I have to admit that I am pleased with the look of the project. It is a simple sort of Victorian design that I made up and measures 18" x 12" but I am petrified to start soldering and muck the whole thing up but excited at the same time. One last question. After I have soldered and applied putty etc, it says I should let it dry a day or two but at what point would I patina or would it look okay as is? Any help with this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Shirley ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Sep 9 07:02:03 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sat, 9 Sep 2000 06:38:58 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #444 built 2000-Sep-9) X-Path: mindspring.com!pigznpawz From: "Jerri" To: Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: hot mold armour Date: Sat, 9 Sep 2000 09:25:54 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk Has anyone used Hot Mold Armour for metal molds? A friend of mine has some, but it's dried out. I'm assuming we can add water to it and mix it up. Also, she can't find the instructions to it. Do you just heat the metal up and then apply the Hot Mold Armour to the mold? How many coats do you need? Also, if I like this stuff, where can I purchase it. Many thanks for any help on this. Jerri ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Sep 10 19:15:42 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 10 Sep 2000 19:05:05 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #447 built 2000-Sep-10) X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles From: "Christie A. Wood" To: Bungi Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Where did I go wrong???? Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 17:53:47 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk Message text written by Colin Pinker >Where did I go wrong????? I spoke to the person that originally taught = =3D me stained glass and he felt that I should only have fitted the jutting =3D= diamond after completing the whole lamp. Can this possibly be the only =3D= reason for my difficulty!!!< Could be a number of things: - Size (width) of the foil is too small to suficiently hold the glass wit= h adhesive until the solder is finished. What size foil are you using? I would definately use at least 1/4" width. - Are all the edges of the pieces ground? I find a ground edge will give= the foil something to grip into, as opposed to foiling unground edges. But= I really assume you've ground all edges of the glass prior to foiling. - When you put the 2 panels' edges together, only a fraction of the edges= actually touch if you've ground them using regular grinding bits. Ther= e is a "lampmaking" grinding bit (might also be called a beveled bit) which has an angel. If you use this gringing bit to do the edges of your panels, it will allow the full edges to touch when assembled, rather than just = a little bit of each edge to touch. This, in turn, will spread the point of stress to the foil across the entire edge, rather than just at the outter leaves = of foil. Don't know if I explained that very well...it's kind of hard to explain= in words rather than just looking at a lampmaking grinding bit and figuring it out. Disclaimer: I personally don't use this lampmaking grinding bit very often. - You can purchase of make jigs to hold the panels at the correct angel f= or an 8-sided lampshade. Trick: Lay an aluminum knitting needle in the bottom of the jig's angle to hold the 2 panels apart so that you don't get one overlapping the other (NOTE: this is not necessary if you've used the lampmaking grinding bit). Solder 4 sets of 2 panels each together on the inside first. Then stand them up so that they lean together towards the top, and tape them all together on the outside. Tack solder outsid= e edges. Turn over & full solder inside edges. - If you don't have a jig, you can try this....get a square box. Fill it= with rags. Arrange the 8 panels into the box so that the top of the lampshade is i= n the bottom of the box. Tape the panels together first. Use the rags t= o prop up individual panels to the correct angels. Tack solder the insid= e as much as possible. Gently, gently, lift out of the box, and finish soldering the inside as it lays flat on the table. Finish the outside soldering.= - If the diamonds are on the corners of the joint of the panels, I would add them on after you've done assembling the lampshade. Hope some of this is helpful. Christie A. Wood, Art Glass Ensembles North Wales, PA USA ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Sep 11 00:32:14 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 11 Sep 2000 00:22:35 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #448 built 2000-Sep-10) X-Path: uswest.net!vsila From: Vern Sila To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: W.C.Fields Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 22:12:25 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk I hope someone can help. I think have exhausted all the sites I could possibly conjure up to search for an artist who did a stained glass portraiture of WC Fields. Please forgive me for being a pest, as I have made this same inquiry once before. A couple of have responded but yielded no results. I promise I won't ask again; I'm just very enthusiastic about his/her work and have come to end of my search. Thanks in advance. ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Sep 11 14:02:06 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 11 Sep 2000 13:45:17 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #450 built 2000-Sep-11) X-Path: home.com!cecnralph From: cecnralph To: Vern Sila , Bungi Glass Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Subject: Re: W.C.Fields Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 13:39:29 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>> Organization: Grendel Studio Precedence: bulk Which glass artist did the portrait of John Wayne? Do you suppose he could also have done WC Fields? The John Wayne one was on the cover of one of the glass magazines, I remember, and if I get a chance I'll hunt thru old issues, but I bet someone here on the list can answer that right off the top of their heads. - Cec Vern Sila wrote: > I hope someone can help. I think have exhausted all the sites I could > possibly conjure up to search for an artist who did a stained glass > portraiture of WC Fields. Please forgive me for being a pest, as I have > made this same inquiry once before. A couple of have responded but > yielded no results. I promise I won't ask again; I'm just very > enthusiastic about his/her work and have come to end of my search. > Thanks in advance. > > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass -- ********************************************************************* * Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood and/or Ralph Bernard Wood * Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy) ********************************************************************* ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Sep 11 17:34:54 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 11 Sep 2000 17:16:06 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #451 built 2000-Sep-11) X-Path: aol.com!PookyPook From: PookyPook@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Subject: Eyes Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 17:19:38 EDT Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk Okay, group.. help is needed here. I have orders for 28 dog suncatchers.. I belong to a Rat Terrier group who all want their dogs immortalized... I am not sure how to do the eyes. Rat Terriers have three colors in them...or a mixture of them.. white, black and copper. Now, the white and copper is not a problem when that is the face. But, when it is black.... AARGH!! These pieces get so tiny and I really don't want to have to cut eyes. I have glass paint and can use that. However, brown doesn't show up on the black. And the white I have is not white, but more of a cream color. And I would have to layer it which I am going to try.. never layered it before. Is there a better way to do it? Besides, I am NOT charging this group anywhere near what I should.. big mistake!! So I want to keep the pieces larger and not as difficult. Hence prefer to paint the eyes if I can.. Is there a different hobby paint that would work? I know I have to "cure" the glass paint in the oven.. do you have to do it with the other hobby paints? and would they last? If you want to see these.. I put one up for auction for the Rat Terrier Rescue group and used my Skeeter's for a sample.. Go to: http://page.auctions.yahoo.com/auction/39568208 or AOL people..... Y ahoo! Auctions - ** All Proceeds To Rescue ~~ Rat Terrier Stained Glass-custom Made We are talking about the full view... Can use all the help you guys can give.... TIA Ruth pookypook@AOL.com http://members.aol.com/RTSkeeter http://members.aol.com/Alyeska222 ICQ11716411 "Ever stop to think and forget to start again?" ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Sep 11 19:21:01 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 11 Sep 2000 19:00:07 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #451 built 2000-Sep-11) X-Path: sympatico.ca!tandg.higson From: Gillian Higson To: PookyPook@aol.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: Re: Eyes Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 22:09:01 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>> Precedence: bulk Hi Ruth there are enamel paints that you can use without firing in the oven. I think they are put out by Plaid. They are acrylic ( at least the brush cleans up with water) and according to the label, permanent when dry. I used them to do faces on a Pokemon character for my sons. and it worked out well. You should be able to pick the paints up at a craft store.eg Michael's. Regards Gillian Ps I just found a bottle and its not Plaid .Its called Ultra gloss by DecoArt. PookyPook@aol.com wrote: > Okay, group.. help is needed here. I have orders for 28 dog suncatchers.. I > belong to a Rat Terrier group who all want their dogs immortalized... I am > not sure how to do the eyes. Rat Terriers have three colors in them...or a > mixture of them.. white, black and copper. Now, the white and copper is not a > problem when that is the face. But, when it is black.... AARGH!! These > pieces get so tiny and I really don't want to have to cut eyes. I have glass > paint and can use that. However, brown doesn't show up on the black. And the > white I have is not white, but more of a cream color. And I would have to > layer it which I am going to try.. never layered it before. Is there a better > way to do it? Besides, I am NOT charging this group anywhere near what I > should.. big mistake!! So I want to keep the pieces larger and not as > difficult. Hence prefer to paint the eyes if I can.. Is there a different > hobby paint that would work? I know I have to "cure" the glass paint in the > oven.. do you have to do it with the other hobby paints? and would they last? > If you want to see these.. I put one up for auction for the Rat Terrier > Rescue group and used my Skeeter's for a sample.. Go to: > http://page.auctions.yahoo.com/auction/39568208 > or AOL people..... Y > ahoo! Auctions - ** All Proceeds To Rescue ~~ Rat Terrier Stained > Glass-custom Made We are talking about the full view... Can use all the > help you guys can give.... TIA > > Ruth > pookypook@AOL.com > http://members.aol.com/RTSkeeter > http://members.aol.com/Alyeska222 > ICQ11716411 > "Ever stop to think and forget to start again?" > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Sep 11 20:25:09 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 11 Sep 2000 20:08:48 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #451 built 2000-Sep-11) X-Path: POBox.com!nadinesfolly From: "Nadine BethSchneider" To: "cecnralph" , Content-Type: multipart/mixed; Subject: RE: W.C.Fields Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 17:19:46 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>> Precedence: bulk This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0002_01C01C14.7BEFA340 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I believe John Wayne was done by Powell Studios. They have a website and perhaps you can get the Fields info from there. Sorry I don't have the url handy. Nadine Nadine Beth Schneider Nadine's Folly, Ltd www.nadinesfolly.com ------=_NextPart_000_0002_01C01C14.7BEFA340 Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: attachment From: "cecnralph" To: "Vern Sila" , "Bungi Glass" References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>> Subject: Re: W.C.Fields Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 13:39:29 -0400 Organization: Grendel Studio Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Priority: 3 (Normal) X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook IMO, Build 9.0.2416 (9.0.2910.0) X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.50.4133.2400 X-Path: home.com!cecnralph Importance: Normal Which glass artist did the portrait of John Wayne? Do you suppose he could also have done WC Fields? The John Wayne one was on the cover of one of the glass magazines, I remember, and if I get a chance I'll hunt thru old issues, but I bet someone here on the list can answer that right off the top of their heads. - Cec Vern Sila wrote: > I hope someone can help. I think have exhausted all the sites I could > possibly conjure up to search for an artist who did a stained glass > portraiture of WC Fields. Please forgive me for being a pest, as I have > made this same inquiry once before. A couple of have responded but > yielded no results. I promise I won't ask again; I'm just very > enthusiastic about his/her work and have come to end of my search. > Thanks in advance. > > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass -- ********************************************************************* * Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood and/or Ralph Bernard Wood * Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy) ********************************************************************* ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ------=_NextPart_000_0002_01C01C14.7BEFA340-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Sep 11 21:30:47 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 11 Sep 2000 21:15:40 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #451 built 2000-Sep-11) X-Path: mindspring.com!glassgirl From: "cheryl zipf" To: Content-Type: multipart/alternative; Subject: re.WC.Fields Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 23:53:17 -0700 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000D_01C01C4B.74FC7180 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I think it was powers brothers stained glass in scottsdale AZ = www.staind-glass.com cheryl ------=_NextPart_000_000D_01C01C4B.74FC7180 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I think it was powers brothers stained = glass in=20 scottsdale AZ www.staind-glass.com=20 cheryl
------=_NextPart_000_000D_01C01C4B.74FC7180-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Sep 12 06:43:08 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 12 Sep 2000 06:38:38 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #451 built 2000-Sep-11) X-Path: gdi.net!shodge From: Skip Hodge To: cecnralph Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: Re: W.C.Fields Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 09:38:26 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>> Precedence: bulk cecnralph wrote: > > Which glass artist did the portrait of John Wayne? Do you suppose he > could also have done WC Fields? The John Wayne one was on the cover of > one of the glass magazines, I remember, and if I get a chance I'll hunt > thru old issues, but I bet someone here on the list can answer that right > off the top of their heads. - Cec > > Vern Sila wrote: > > > I hope someone can help. I think have exhausted all the sites I could > > possibly conjure up to search for an artist who did a stained glass > > portraiture of WC Fields. Please forgive me for being a pest, as I have > > made this same inquiry once before. A couple of have responded but > > yielded no results. I promise I won't ask again; I'm just very > > enthusiastic about his/her work and have come to end of my search. > > Thanks in advance. > > > > ---- > > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > > -- > ********************************************************************* > * Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood and/or Ralph Bernard Wood > * Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy) > ********************************************************************* > > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass If it is the John Wayne I'm Thinking of it is in the book "WINNDOWS OF NORTH AMERICA" If it is still available all the information about the artist and studio is there. Skip Southern Exposure Stained Glass Supply, Inc. ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Sep 12 07:12:06 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 12 Sep 2000 07:01:54 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #451 built 2000-Sep-11) X-Path: northamericanfund.com!rballard From: "Robin Ballard" To: "cheryl zipf" , Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: RE: re.WC.Fields Date: Tue, 12 Sep 2000 08:34:56 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>> Precedence: bulk The URL for Powers Brothers stained Glass is: http://www.powersstainedglass.com/ I checked their site and couldn't find any reference to W. C. Fields. Perhaps you can email them to see if they were the ones who did that piece. -----Original Message----- From: cheryl zipf [mailto:glassgirl@mindspring.com] Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2000 1:53 AM To: glass@bungi.com Subject: re.WC.Fields This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000D_01C01C4B.74FC7180 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I think it was powers brothers stained glass in scottsdale AZ = www.staind-glass.com cheryl ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Sep 12 11:24:09 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 12 Sep 2000 10:46:25 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #451 built 2000-Sep-11) X-Path: island.net!seaspray From: "synergy glass" To: , Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Re: Eyes Date: Tue, 12 Sep 2000 09:19:38 -0700 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk Hi. Let me preface this by saying this suggestion is only suitable for little suncatchers, not for panels and true works of art. Painting on those should be fired on in the time honored way. For eyes and little accents on suncatchers, I use black paint that comes from a model store where they sell those plastic plane and car kits that boys like to put together and paint. I've found it to be more permanent than craft store brands. Also works and seems permanent enough for suncatchers is Tremclad black rustoleum paint. (It comes in quart cans so you need to be using it for another project to make purchasing it worthwhile) Carol Carol Swann Synergy Glass & Creative www.igga.org/synergy seaspray@island.net -----Original Message----- From: PookyPook@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Date: Monday, September 11, 2000 5:47 PM Subject: Eyes >Okay, group.. help is needed here. I have orders for 28 dog suncatchers.. I >belong to a Rat Terrier group who all want their dogs immortalized... I am >not sure how to do the eyes. Rat Terriers have three colors in them...or a >mixture of them.. white, black and copper. Now, the white and copper is not a >problem when that is the face. But, when it is black.... AARGH!! These >pieces get so tiny and I really don't want to have to cut eyes. I have glass >paint and can use that. However, brown doesn't show up on the black. And the >white I have is not white, but more of a cream color. And I would have to >layer it which I am going to try.. never layered it before. Is there a better >way to do it? Besides, I am NOT charging this group anywhere near what I >should.. big mistake!! So I want to keep the pieces larger and not as >difficult. Hence prefer to paint the eyes if I can.. Is there a different >hobby paint that would work? I know I have to "cure" the glass paint in the >oven.. do you have to do it with the other hobby paints? and would they last? > If you want to see these.. I put one up for auction for the Rat Terrier >Rescue group and used my Skeeter's for a sample.. Go to: >http://page.auctions.yahoo.com/auction/39568208 >or AOL people..... Y >ahoo! Auctions - ** All Proceeds To Rescue ~~ Rat Terrier Stained >Glass-custom Made We are talking about the full view... Can use all the >help you guys can give.... TIA > >Ruth >pookypook@AOL.com >http://members.aol.com/RTSkeeter >http://members.aol.com/Alyeska222 >ICQ11716411 >"Ever stop to think and forget to start again?" >---- >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com >To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Sep 12 13:32:47 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 12 Sep 2000 13:25:04 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #452 built 2000-Sep-12) X-Path: GSA-ORSP.CROWN.NWU.EDU!kaye From: "Kaye Sodt" To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Subject: Re: Eyes Date: Tue, 12 Sep 2000 15:20:18 CST 6CDT Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Organization: GSA-ORSP Precedence: bulk FWIW, one of my local (stained glass) retailers carries glass eyes in a variety of sizes--little ones I've used for birds, and bigger ones with the vertical irises for cats. I've been told they're hand-painted (so not cheap) but I don't know where they get them. Wondered if maybe they were taxidermy items (?) Anyway, they're domed, but flat on the back (if the finished piece will be viewed from both sides, you'd need two per eye) . I just foil them like I would a nugget. If anyone's really interested, I could try and get more information... Kaye ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Sep 12 13:35:24 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 12 Sep 2000 13:22:35 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #452 built 2000-Sep-12) X-Path: ictc.com!bankers From: "Banker's House" To: Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Slumped Glass Lamp Panels Date: Tue, 12 Sep 2000 15:22:02 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk I have recently returned from my grandmother's 90th birthday party! While there, I was asked if I would look at a stained glass lamp, so... I was led over to a friend of a relatives car trunk, and wrapped up in blankets and inside a box, were the remains of a slumped glass panel lamp. The question was... can you fix the broken panels? I had to inform them that I myself did not slump glass, I do not have a kiln. Can anyone help me? The lamp is missing 3 panels (identical). I think I understand the process, but I have no idea about the cost, or where I could have this done. Any information would be very welcome. bankers@ictc.com Dale Bentley ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Sep 12 17:04:22 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 12 Sep 2000 16:41:55 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #453 built 2000-Sep-12) X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles From: "Christie A. Wood" To: Bungi Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: First Leaded Piece Date: Tue, 12 Sep 2000 19:39:11 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk Message text written by Shirley >1. Is calcium carbonate something I should be able to buy even in a smal= l town?> Probably not. I get mine through the stained glass retail store. <2. What exactly is lamp black? We have something called stove black tha= t you use to make your wood stove look lovely after years of use. Is this the same thing? > Same thing (lucky you). <3. Should your putty be the consistency of pancake batter or peanut butter?> Depends on how you like your putty. I like mine like peanut butter. My assistant likes hers like thick pancake batter. Don't worry, it will look great! Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 12 Sep 2000 18:41:34 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #453 built 2000-Sep-12) X-Path: aol.com!Wskyrnr21 From: Wskyrnr21@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Subject: odessy ring installation Date: Tue, 12 Sep 2000 21:39:31 EDT Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk I normally install my Odessy rings in the shade while it rests on the mold. It fits squarely and is a snap to install. PROBLEM! this time the Odessy mold has left the 5" ring sitting up too high above the glass pieces. Question? It looks as though I will have to install the ring AFTER I remove the shade from the mold. Can someone give me feedback about this process and what problems might I incur? Thanks Kevin ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Sep 13 07:03:25 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 13 Sep 2000 06:57:34 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #453 built 2000-Sep-12) X-Path: aol.com!ARTIZ01 From: ARTIZ01@aol.com To: Glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Subject: John Wayne Design Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 09:41:35 EDT Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk The book Windows of North America( Wardell Publications) Collection 3 has a stained glass design of John Wayne illustrated by Powers Stained Glass. It is all copper foiled the picture is 4' X 5 ' and (2000) pieces. The Powers Stained Glass Studio is located in Scotsdale Az http:www.staind-glass.com Hope this helps you find it, it is a neat picture. I love this book also. Bunny ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Sep 13 09:32:59 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 13 Sep 2000 09:20:38 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #453 built 2000-Sep-12) X-Path: aol.com!VideoRequest From: "Stephen Lee" To: glass@bungi.com Subject: Stephen Lee - Question Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 09:19:28 -0700 (PDT) Message-ID: Precedence: bulk Hello my name is Stephen Lee. :o) I ran accross your E-mail address on http://mc1.metacrawler.com/crawler?refer=mc-morelike&general=Bulk%20%20Product%20Center (under e-mail+marketing+sales in altavista's search engine) and wanted to tell you that I use a software program that filters my email for me and also sends out personal emails to my customers all automatically while I am away from my desk. PS - It even has an unlimited number of built in autoresponders, it can import orders into your database, and it even has a built in newsletter server as well which I use all of the time. Let me know if you are interested and I will send you the hyperlink to it where you can download it and try it out for yourself. It has been the most useful tool to me and I hope it can help you out too!! Sincerely, Stephen Lee :o) ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Sep 13 10:32:03 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 13 Sep 2000 10:20:36 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #453 built 2000-Sep-12) X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles From: "Christie A. Wood" To: Bungi Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: IGGA Press Release:Glass Book Store Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 13:15:11 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk The following email press release is provided by the International Guild = of Glass Artists (IGGA) as a service to our online members. It does not imp= ly endorsement. Christie A. Wood - IGGA Exec. Director North Wales, PA USA -------------Forwarded Message----------------- From: Jacob Fishman, INTERNET:jaf@lightwriters.com Date: 09/11/2000 9:22 PM RE: Glass Book Store = Dear Glass Lovers, I just wanted to tell you about changes at Lightwriters Glass Book Store.= First we have a new isp. Hopefully this means no more outages. We also added new software to assist in you book search and order processing. New products include flip-ups from Aura Lens Products. This new eye wear= for glass blowers' features the same great Aura lens plus flip-up shades.= There is even a model with a flip-up magnifier. http://www.lightwriters.com is part of my glass studio and not a huge corporate site. Buying books from the site helps artists and students al= ike. Thanks,Jacob= ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Sep 14 10:03:08 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 14 Sep 2000 09:53:15 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #453 built 2000-Sep-12) X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles From: "Christie A. Wood" To: Bungi Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: IGGA open slots for July 13-15 2001 Rosen Show Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2000 10:18:19 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk Hi gang. The International Guild of Glass Artists (IGGA) will once again sponsor a guild booth at the world's largest wholesale craft show, the Buyer's Market of American Craft, managed by the Rosen Group. This will the the third year in which the IGGA has participated, allowing from 4-5 IGGA members to showcase their artwork to thousands of retail store owners across Canada and the U.S.A. We have three openings available for the July 13-15, 2001 show, which will be held again at the Philadelphia Convention Center in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania U.S.A. Two of our members, Carol Swann (Canada) and PJ Friend (U.S.A.) are already accepted into the show. Time is of the essence. If you are interested in participating, and want more information, email me directly at info@igga.org or Ensembles@compuserve.com, and I'll email you the requirements for the show. A little background about the show: Buyer's Market of American Craft is the world's largest wholesale craft show. It is not open to the general public - but concentrates totally on retail store owners, catalog companies, museum shops, jewelry stores, clothing stores, department stores, and furniture stores.= The Rosen Group produces two of these Buyer's Market of American Craft shows a year - one in the Winter and one in the Summer. IGGA has participated at the 1999 and 2000 Summer shows. This show provides a professional setting for the development of wholesale contacts, and to generate new business for both buyers and sellers. Craftwork/artwork displayed by BMAC covers a broad range of price points and styles. All work displayed must be produced by the artist present in their own studio (i.e. not sorced out for productio= n) by artists who are residents of the U.S.A. or Canada. IGGA provides a guild booth free of charge to juried members, in order for them to 'test the waters' about going into the wholesale trade. IGGA also offers a mentorship program, with those members who have successfully gone into a wholesale career helping guide new participants through the steps. Up to five different IGGA members may be invited to participate in the booth, following a jurying procedure. Since the IGGA booth is a guild booth, some of the Rosen Group's rules are relaxed a bit...this allows us to operate the booth without having all artists present. An IGGA representative runs the booth during the show, with active participation from the artists. In 1999 total orders taken in the IGGA booth were around $9,000. In 2000 total orders taken in the IGGA booth increased to around $14,000.= We place the booth in the "Mixed Media" category to allow inclusion of glass mosaic artwork, mixed media with glass artwork, and glass jewelry, as well as stained glass, slumped/fused glass, and cast glass works of art. All IGGA members are invited to apply to the jurying process. Christie A. Wood - IGGA Exec. Director North Wales, PA USA ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Sep 14 10:53:29 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 14 Sep 2000 10:31:50 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #453 built 2000-Sep-12) X-Path: netrax.net!rejones From: Robert Jones To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: Mosiac Book Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2000 13:27:26 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>> Precedence: bulk Can someone (anyone) recommend a good mosaic book. I have never done this before and my mother want to give my sisters "bird baths covered with glass". Thanks in advance. Bob ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Sep 15 05:32:23 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 15 Sep 2000 05:29:02 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #454 built 2000-Sep-14) X-Path: earthlink.net!glasscutter From: Gerry Phibbs To: Robert Jones Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Subject: Re: Mosiac Book Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 04:07:53 +0000 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>> Organization: International Guild of Glass Artists, Inc Precedence: bulk Hi Bob, While there are a number of books on mosaics, I'm going to suggest you visit this web site.. http://members.telocity.com/~mosaics/index.html This is the web site of George Fishman, who does some fairly remarkable stuff in mosaics, and his "indirect" method really has some advantages in both speed, layout, and design. Peace -Gerry ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Sep 15 14:04:06 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 15 Sep 2000 13:52:15 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #455 built 2000-Sep-15) X-Path: voyager.net!glasscat From: "Carolyn" To: Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: NG - No mail? Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 16:20:59 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk I haven't received any bungi mail in several weeks.....everybody busy with holiday glass? Carolyn glasscat@voyager.net ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Sep 15 14:55:45 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 15 Sep 2000 14:49:37 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #455 built 2000-Sep-15) X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles From: "Christie A. Wood" To: Bungi Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: IGGA press release:The Crafts Report 2nd Survey Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 17:46:13 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk The following news release is provided by the International Guild of Glass Artists (IGGA) as a service for our members. It does not imply any endorsement. Christie A. Wood- IGGA Exec. Director North Wales, PA USA ---------------------------------------------- The Crafts Report Launches Second Survey of Craft Sales on the Internet: "Are Craft Retailers Buying and Selling on the Internet?" The Crafts Report, the premier business magazine for crafts professionals, is launching a comprehensive survey of craft retailers to quantify their Internet- generated spending and income. The survey, "Are Craft Retailers Buying and Selling on the Internet?", will ask retailers how much they have spent buying craft over the Internet, what percentage of their suppliers they have found via the Internet, and what percentage of their sales to the public occur onlin, among other related questions. The survey will be posted on The Crafts Report Online (www.craftsreport.com) until Nov. 15. In May, The Crafts Report launched the first-ever comprehensive survey of online craft sales among craftspeople, "Are Craftspeople Making Money on the Internet?" It was distributed to thousands of craftspeople around the country, as well as posted on The Crafts Report Online, which draws more than 20,000 visitors each month. "Craftspeople and retailers have been speculating about the Internet's affect on the crafts field, but there has been no concrete information available. Our survey will help crafts professionals better understand how e-commerce can impact their business," says Bernadette Finnerty, editor of The Crafts Report. "We encourage retailers to participate. Their input is essential to providing a practical, balanced perspective on craft sales on the Internet." Retailers can fill out the survey online at www.craftsreport.com. If you have any questions about the survey, call The Crafts Report editorial department at (800) 777-7098. The results of The Crafts Report's first survey, launched in May 2000 - "Are Craftspeople Making Money on the Internet?" - will be published in January 2001 issue of The Crafts Report. The results of "Are Craft Retailers Buying and Selling on the Internet?" will be published early in 2001. ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Sep 15 16:32:08 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 15 Sep 2000 16:25:58 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #455 built 2000-Sep-15) X-Path: mail2.nai.net!shad From: Family Account To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: Re: NG - No mail? Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 18:42:29 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>> Precedence: bulk you know, I must confess, I haven't been online for a few days, because I have been hectically busy with glass. We are preparing a couple of small panels (15 inch square) for an art show. Our first craft fair is this weekend and we realized that we didn't have butterflies (an art guild shop took all the ones we had, so we needed more) or autumn leaves. I had, in my mind's eye, a vision of autumn leaves in ice, so I designed and made that as a 12 inch panel. (What makes good ice? Optima trapunto) Some of leaf parts are raised above the plane, part of one leaf is layered under the Trapunto. I finally got it in the window this afternoon and it looks great. I've been trying to get ahead this summer, but I wonder if there is such a thing! I still need some new 12 inch panels. Right now I'm seeing a lily pond, with koi.... Dorothy Carolyn wrote: > I haven't received any bungi mail in several weeks.....everybody busy with > holiday glass? > Carolyn > glasscat@voyager.net > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Sep 16 21:03:49 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sat, 16 Sep 2000 20:31:28 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #456 built 2000-Sep-16) X-Path: voyager.net!glasscat From: "Carolyn" To: Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: NG- No mail Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2000 21:09:09 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk There was apparently one of those numerous "glitches" that happen with these crazy machines! I'm back with ya, bungians! Thank you, Carolyn glasscat@voyager.net ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Sep 17 14:04:46 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 17 Sep 2000 13:32:54 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #459 built 2000-Sep-17) X-Path: aol.com!PookyPook From: PookyPook@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Subject: small pieces Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2000 16:23:28 EDT Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk I am curious.. just how small is the smallest piece of glass that you are comfortable and/or willing to make? And what tricks do you have to keep the solder at a minimum on them so it doesn't overwhelm the piece? After I foil the very small ones, really, after all of them, I trim the foil so it doesn't overpower the piece and it looks neater. But, the suncatchers that I have tons to make on commission have such tiny pieces.. Yuck!! Not the whole piece, but enough to make me SIGH... Ruth pookypook@AOL.com http://members.aol.com/RTSkeeter http://members.aol.com/Alyeska222 ICQ11716411 "Ever stop to think and forget to start again?" ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Sep 17 16:32:12 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 17 Sep 2000 16:20:58 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #459 built 2000-Sep-17) X-Path: vrinter.net!suzy From: suzy albright To: glass list Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Subject: Re: small pieces Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2000 19:10:45 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>> Precedence: bulk -- on 9/17/00 4:23 PM, PookyPook@aol.com at PookyPook@aol.com wrote: > I am curious.. just how small is the smallest piece of glass that you are > comfortable and/or willing to make? I have a rule of thumb, so to speak. I don't like to cut anything smaller than my thumbnail. And...it's difficult to make any money on suncatchers with zillions of small pieces. Nobody appreciates all the work you put into it. See if you can get rid of some of those, without compromising the integrity of the piece. Suzanne > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Sep 17 19:02:21 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 17 Sep 2000 18:53:04 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #459 built 2000-Sep-17) X-Path: home.net!esavad From: "Mike Savad" To: , Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: RE: small pieces Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2000 21:44:56 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>> Precedence: bulk the smallest pieces i have made are about half the size of a grain of rice. the hardest part is grinding it. the pieces are so small it get's stuck in the grid of the grinder. i made a special platform, just for tiny pieces. the foil i'll use would be something like 5/32" or 1/8" i try not to use a razor - for the fear of death. i clean the glass, (ground, it helps it to stick better), stretch my fingers, and foil. i'll hold the corners, and press the sides down with a pointy object (dowel with a point). then press the corners down on something hard. rubbing is'nt neeeded. soldering is fairly hard, i have to remember that there's a small piece of glass there. if you take a look at my sky city project (god only knows when i'll get back to that thing), there are pictures of the tiny windows i made. each the size of my palm, each containing around 50 pieces in it. http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141/skycity.htm as far as how small... depends on the glass and the need. i'll make it as small as i can, providing there's still enough foil on the glass to solder too. usually i loose the piece with the other scrap. ---Mike Savad Mike's Stained Glass - Tips Tricks Photos http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141 4-6-2000 New Pages Added: 1 new tip page: Help buying stained glass, updated info on the about me page, and 3 window set's for skycity. Including lot's of new links, and more FREE PATTERN links. > -----Original Message----- > From: PookyPook@aol.com [mailto:PookyPook@aol.com] > Sent: Sunday, September 17, 2000 4:23 PM > To: glass@bungi.com > Subject: small pieces > > > I am curious.. just how small is the smallest piece of glass that you are > comfortable and/or willing to make? And what tricks do you have > to keep the > solder at a minimum on them so it doesn't overwhelm the piece? > After I foil > the very small ones, really, after all of them, I trim the foil > so it doesn't > overpower the piece and it looks neater. But, the suncatchers that I have > tons to make on commission have such tiny pieces.. Yuck!! Not the whole > piece, but enough to make me SIGH... > > Ruth > pookypook@AOL.com > http://members.aol.com/RTSkeeter > http://members.aol.com/Alyeska222 > ICQ11716411 > "Ever stop to think and forget to start again?" > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Sep 18 00:02:50 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 17 Sep 2000 23:58:42 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #459 built 2000-Sep-17) X-Path: policeone.com!officerjqg From: officerjqg@policeone.com To: Glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain Subject: Mirrors Mirrors Mirrors Date: 17 Sep 2000 23:58:28 -0700 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk I have a new project, and a new area of glass I want to explore. I bought a mirror glass book (mainly because it had tips etc). I read the book and looked at the patterns that came with it. There was one that kind of jumped out at me so I figured with a few modifications I would try one. The instructions only covered copper foiling the mirror. I thought the pattern would be more appropriate for lead. This leads to many questions that I would like answered by the worlds leading artist in this field (or by you guys). 1. In sealing the mirror what products are best, preferably something not stained glass only but something you could find in a hardware store. 2. Is lead a viable way to do the piece. It would be a pane of glass approximately 18 inches diameter with a border around it and some type of decorative cluster sodered on top of border to accent it. It seems better to me because you would have less chemicals touching the mirror, and less heat near the mirror. 3. Any tips or downfalls I should be aware of that will help and possible not end in giving me seven years bad luck. speaking of bad luck is cutting the mirror the same as breaking the mirror in there eyes. Hmmmmm anyway all responses would be appreciated. Thanks in advance James ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Sep 18 03:56:28 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 18 Sep 2000 03:46:44 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #459 built 2000-Sep-17) X-Path: bham.ac.uk!b.s.jones From: "Jones B.S." To: "'PookyPook@aol.com'" , "'glass@bungi.com'" Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: RE: small pieces Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 11:38:04 +0100 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk From: PookyPook@aol.com [mailto:PookyPook@aol.com] Subject: small pieces I am curious.. just how small is the smallest piece of glass that you are Hi, The limit is usually how small a piece you can hold on a grinder by hand. I grind things on the end of a stalk of glass .Usually eyes and things like that.You cut the piece of the stalk afterwards then finish the last edge. Another trick is to temporarily epoxy a piece of glass onto a metal holder or glass glue onto another piece of glass as as holder.The epoxy comes off afterwards easily but glass glue is another thing.Great for amateurs with time to burn but not practical for professionals. Brandon (UK) ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Sep 18 04:33:19 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 18 Sep 2000 04:28:27 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #459 built 2000-Sep-17) X-Path: earthlink.net!glasscutter From: Gerry Phibbs To: officerjqg@policeone.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Subject: Re: Mirrors Mirrors Mirrors Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 02:27:54 +0000 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>> Organization: International Guild of Glass Artists, Inc Precedence: bulk Hi James.. For a mirror sealant, try.. Sprayway, Inc., 484 Vista Ave., Addison IL 60101 (708) 628-3000 (800) 332- 9000 Telex: 287805 Spy UR Mirror Edge Sealant (prevents =93black-edge=94), Glass Cleaner (contains no ammonia, leaves no film), Adhesive Spray (repositionable), Plastic Cleaner (antistatic), Polishing Oil (improves finish). Manufacturer. In some situations, I might also lay on an additional coat of a high temperature paint, but you'll need to check to make sure that it doesn't affect the mirror surface. Such minimal mirror work as I've done, has always been in foil, but from the theoretical standpoint, I'm not sure that lead is precluded for a piece the size you describe. Make certain your lead is properly stretched, and that all of the solder joints are properly done, to insure the structural integrity of the finished piece. You may wish to use zinc came on the edges for strength, you can always coat them with solder so that your patina will blend them all together. The zinc will not stretch nearly as much as the lead cames will, and you'll have a stronger piece in the end. The only thing about cutting mirror, is that you need to properly deal with the mirror backing, which should split nicely on straight cuts, but may well be a hassle on curved cuts. Do a minimal amount of grinding, as it can cause chip outs in the mirror backing, which may show up in the finished piece. Personally, I like using the black backed foils for mirror, as it better defines the "lead line", and you don't have that odd copper colored reflection at the joints. But a leaded piece will not have that problem. As for luck.. well, it's not called the fragile art for nothing! A bit of luck goes into each and every piece, regardless if it's mirror or not. As for the 7 year thing.. I don't buy it at all, that's just one of those old superstitions.. 'Course I keep a small container of kosher salt handy, and just toss it over my shoulder with each cut. Smudging yourself with sage, also seems to help. Sometimes you need more luck than you can carry around with you at all times. Peace -Gerry ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Sep 18 06:02:05 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 18 Sep 2000 05:50:32 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #459 built 2000-Sep-17) X-Path: bankpds.com!avssg From: "Anna Verbsky Sagami" To: Content-Type: multipart/alternative; Subject: Trip Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 07:55:02 -0700 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_005E_01C02145.BFE21A20 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hello all, I will be taking a trip to England and wondering if anyone over there = lives near Heathrow? Any Stained Glass businesses near Ely? (I will be = visiting the Stained Glass Museum) Just checking to see if anyone else = has been to Enland and if there is something I should'nt miss or someone = I should see. =20 ANY GLASS PAINTERS IN ENGLAND?? Anna Verbsky Sagami ------=_NextPart_000_005E_01C02145.BFE21A20 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hello all,
 
I will be taking a trip to England and = wondering if=20 anyone over there lives near Heathrow?  Any Stained Glass = businesses near=20 Ely?  (I will be visiting the Stained Glass Museum)  Just = checking to=20 see if anyone else has been to Enland and if there is something I = should'nt miss=20 or someone I should see. 
 
ANY GLASS PAINTERS IN = ENGLAND??
 
Anna Verbsky = Sagami
------=_NextPart_000_005E_01C02145.BFE21A20-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Sep 18 07:02:28 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 18 Sep 2000 06:56:14 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #460 built 2000-Sep-18) X-Path: aol.com!PookyPook From: PookyPook@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Subject: small pieces Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 09:53:45 EDT Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk Thanks, all, for the suggestions and tips! I, for one, really liked the "nothing smaller than a thumbnail" one! I DO need to get some 3/16" foil. That I do not have and that may make the difference. Worth a try. What I am working on entails using very small pieces at times.. no getting around it. Except that I think in my case it would look better painted on. I am doing people's pets in glass. They are coming out wonderfully, but, because of small specks of color here and there, I find I need to do something. Thanks again! This list is great! Ruth pookypook@AOL.com http://members.aol.com/RTSkeeter http://members.aol.com/Alyeska222 ICQ11716411 "Ever stop to think and forget to start again?" ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Sep 18 07:06:44 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 18 Sep 2000 07:01:36 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #460 built 2000-Sep-18) X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles From: "Christie A. Wood" To: Bungi Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: small pieces Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 09:59:12 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk Message text written by INTERNET:PookyPook@aol.com >I am curious.. just how small is the smallest piece of glass that you ar= e = comfortable and/or willing to make? And what tricks do you have to keep t= he solder at a minimum on them so it doesn't overwhelm the piece? After I foil = the very small ones, really, after all of them, I trim the foil so it doesn't = overpower the piece and it looks neater. But, the suncatchers that I have= = tons to make on commission have such tiny pieces.. Yuck!! Not the whole = piece, but enough to make me SIGH... Ruth< I have been known to copper foil pieces as small as 1/4" wide x 1/8" tall= in tiny triangle shapes. Not much fun to foil. Have to use 3/16" foil and trim so that some glass= shows. In fact, my staff calls them "Christie pieces". I try to not do that too much any more. B= ut sometimes you just got to have that piece or the panel won't look right. The smallest piece I have in my wholesale production line is a circle 1" diameter. Christie A. Wood - Art Glass Ensembles North Wales, PA USA ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Sep 18 07:31:58 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 18 Sep 2000 07:13:55 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #460 built 2000-Sep-18) X-Path: ns.sympatico.ca!heinze.g From: heinze.g@ns.sympatico.ca (Gail HeinzeMiline) To: officerjqg@policeone.com, Glass List Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: Re: Mirrors Mirrors Mirrors Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 08:39:30 -0300 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>> Organization: Glass with Class Precedence: bulk I seal my mirrors with clear acrylic enamel spray, available in any hardware store. Just lay the mirror face side down on newspaper, and spray the back and edges. Don't move it until its dry. Good luck! Gail in Nova Scotia officerjqg@policeone.com wrote: > I have a new project, and a new area of glass I want to explore. I bought a mirror glass book (mainly because it had tips etc). I read the book and looked at the patterns that came with it. There was one that kind of jumped out at me so I figured with a few modifications I would try one. The instructions only covered copper foiling the mirror. I thought the pattern would be more appropriate for lead. This leads to many questions that I would like answered by the worlds leading artist in this field (or by you guys). > 1. In sealing the mirror what products are best, preferably something not stained glass only but something you could find in a hardware store. > > 2. Is lead a viable way to do the piece. It would be a pane of glass approximately 18 inches diameter with a border around it and some type of decorative cluster sodered on top of border to accent it. It seems better to me because you would have less chemicals touching the mirror, and less heat near the mirror. > > 3. Any tips or downfalls I should be aware of that will help and possible not end in giving me seven years bad luck. > > speaking of bad luck is cutting the mirror the same as breaking the mirror in there eyes. Hmmmmm > > anyway all responses would be appreciated. > > Thanks in advance > James > > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass -- ----------------------------------------------------- Click here for Free Video!! http://www.gohip.com/free_video/ ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Sep 18 10:09:33 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 18 Sep 2000 10:05:05 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #460 built 2000-Sep-18) X-Path: stainedglass.co.uk!studio From: "studio@stainedglass.co.uk" To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Subject: Dudley Glass Festival - UK Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 18:02:25 +0100 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk Just in case any UK based bunginians havent heard about the Dudley Glass Festival here are some details. Held from Sunday 24th September (next weekend) till Sunday 1st October with exhibitions and demos at The Broadfield House Museum There is a brochure they will post you if you ask with full details of special glass working demos and offers of workshops in various studios in the area. >From it I see there are two special exhibitions of Cameo glass at the museum; guest glass blowers in the scholarship studio there each day; some cutglass factories will be open to visitors; lampworking demos on the first Sunday; interesting lectures during the week; a special re-enactment of the ancient 'Glassmakers Procession' on the last day with antique glass walkingsticks and crooks displayed plus loads more of interest to see. We are now having to choose between the two Sundays as it is too far for more than one trip for us, but anyone living nearer might like to stay a few days to get round the attractions. We have no connection with the Festival except as visitors and workshop attenders and thoroughly recommend it as a good day or few out! So get a brochure to see what is on where and when from The Broadfield House Museum Tel: 01384 812745 (drop the first 0 and start with 00 44 from outside UK) Compton Drive Kingswinsford West Midlands DY6 9NS Regards Elizabeth Bournemouth Stained Glass http://www.stainedglass.co.uk UK Charter Member RAGS ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Sep 18 18:32:58 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 18 Sep 2000 18:26:10 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #460 built 2000-Sep-18) X-Path: netzero.net!kseeglass From: "KSee" To: Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: IGGA Press Release: Pilchuck New Director Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 21:22:13 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk The following email press release is provided by the International Guild of Glass Artists (IGGA) as a service to our online members. It does not imply endorsement. KSee, IGGA Communications Committee Press Release, Monday September 11, 2000 Pilchuck School Selects Executive Director Barbara Johns The Board of Trustees of the Pilchuck Glass School announced on Monday, Sept 11, 2000, the hiring of its new Executive Director, Barbara Johns. Ms Johns' selection was a culmination of a national search. Johns come to Pilchuck with extensive arts experience in the Pacific Northwest. For the past nine years she served as Chief Curator for the Tacoma Art Museum (TAM), where she set the artistic vision for the museum during a major period of its growth. With her ability to step into challenging situations, Johns was tapped by the TAM board twice to serve as Acting Director, once on 1992-93 and again in 1999. Prior to that she served in a variety of positions at the Seattle Art Museum and the Smithsonian Institution. "This year Pilchuck Glass School celebrates its 30th anniversary. It is with tremendous pride that we announce the selection of Barbara Johns as our new Executive Director. Barbara's extensive experience and leadership skills will assure our artistic vision and educational excellence into the next decade," stated Benjamin Moore, current Interim Executive Director and prominent glass artist. www.pilchuck.com _____NetZero Free Internet Access and Email______ http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Sep 19 00:37:37 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 19 Sep 2000 00:17:49 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #460 built 2000-Sep-18) X-Path: policeone.com!officerjqg From: officerjqg@policeone.com To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain Subject: Mirors Continued Date: 19 Sep 2000 00:16:55 -0700 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk I gave thought about the mirror border pulling away after time. I know that the strength integrity in a larger piece relies on good vertical cuts and lots of intersecting lines. What I thought might solve this problem would be this. I have lots of copper wire/rods that are approximately the size of lead in a pencil. It is heavy and hard to bend with the bare hands. I thought I would cut the rods to fit on the back side of the mirror (since you cant see the back)and solder the edges of the bottom of the frame tom the bars and then the top part of the frame to the other end of the bars. It would be as if the was vertical cuts in the mirror but there isnt. I know visualizing can be difficult but if you understand what I am getting at..... Do you think it would negate the frame coming apart in time. James ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Sep 19 08:31:57 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 19 Sep 2000 08:20:13 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #461 built 2000-Sep-19) X-Path: inter-prog.co.uk!alan From: Alan Faiers To: glass Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Subject: RE: Dudley Glass Festival - UK Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 11:21:01 +0100 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>> Precedence: bulk For more info, go to http://www.dudley.gov.uk/ and follow the Museum Service & Broadfield House links. ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Sep 19 12:20:17 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 19 Sep 2000 12:01:50 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #462 built 2000-Sep-19) X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles From: "Christie A. Wood" To: "Gwen Cox" , Bungi Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: IGGA inquiry Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 15:00:59 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk Message text written by "Gwen Cox" >I am searching for information about a stained glass artist that created a bronze and stained glass lamp by the name of "The Spirit Lives" (Two Navajo Indians-one male and one female). The signature appears to be RABB with a small cross and a copyright symbol. If anyone can help me I would appreciate it greatly. Gwen Cox< I personally don't know of this artist, but I will post this inquiry on the online glass bulletin board frequented by many glass artists, and hopefully someone will know the artist to whom you refer. If anyone can help out here with information, please contact Gwen Cox at ncox@prodigy.net. Thank you. Christie A. Wood - IGGA Exec. Director North Wales, PA USA ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Sep 19 12:32:38 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 19 Sep 2000 12:03:09 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #462 built 2000-Sep-19) X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles From: "Christie A. Wood" To: Bungi Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Help with opening a file.... Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 15:01:10 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk I've been sent some photographs of a lamp. Unfortunately, they are in some type of format my old, beat-up computer and Compuserve cannot recognize as being graphic files. I think they are in something called UUE format. Can anyone online help me out by receiving the file, opening it, saving it in either .jpg or .bmp format, and then sending it back to me? Thanks. Christie A. Wood North Wales, PA USA ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Sep 19 13:08:03 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 19 Sep 2000 12:47:58 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #462 built 2000-Sep-19) X-Path: MAIL.AOC.STATE.KY.US!KitW From: "Walden, Kit" To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain Subject: NG-visiting NM,CO,AZ,UT Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 14:53:38 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk Hello fellow bungians, I am visiting Colorado, New Mexico, Arizona and Utah October 22-November 5. I'd like to visit as many sites related to stained glass as possible (including but not limited to Frank Lloyd Wright sites), and I figured who better to point me to the best places than you all. I'd like to see some studios, churches, famous houses etc. Does anyone have any favorites? Or can you give me any ideas on where to start looking? I really appreciate any help you can give me. thanks, kit ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Sep 19 14:03:22 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 19 Sep 2000 13:45:35 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #462 built 2000-Sep-19) X-Path: stratus.com!Charlie_Spitzer From: "Spitzer, Charlie" To: "'glass@bungi.com'" Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: RE: NG-visiting NM,CO,AZ,UT Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 13:38:20 -0700 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk there is practically nothing glass note-worthy in az and nm. if you're mormon, you can get into the tabernacle in salt lake city but that's all i know about things there. i don't know of anything in co outside of some large pieces in the air force academy in colorado springs. there's a lot in las vegas in the new casinos. regards, charlie phx, az > -----Original Message----- > From: Walden, Kit [mailto:KitW@MAIL.AOC.STATE.KY.US] > Sent: Tuesday, September 19, 2000 11:54 AM > To: glass@bungi.com > Subject: NG-visiting NM,CO,AZ,UT > > > Hello fellow bungians, > > I am visiting Colorado, New Mexico, Arizona and Utah October > 22-November 5. > I'd like to visit as many sites related to stained glass as possible > (including but not limited to Frank Lloyd Wright sites), and > I figured who > better to point me to the best places than you all. I'd > like to see some > studios, churches, famous houses etc. Does anyone have any > favorites? Or > can you give me any ideas on where to start looking? I > really appreciate > any help you can give me. > > thanks, > > kit ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Sep 19 15:03:15 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 19 Sep 2000 14:50:28 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #462 built 2000-Sep-19) X-Path: stratus.com!Charlie_Spitzer From: "Spitzer, Charlie" To: "'glass@bungi.com'" Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: FW: NG-visiting NM,CO,AZ,UT Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 14:43:39 -0700 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk actually, here's a place that i've been told is nice, but i have not been there. > A must see is the Scottsdale Museum of Contemporary Art, great glass > collection. > phone - 480-874-7665 there is also a bead museum in glendale that opened sometime the beginning of this year, if you're into that. i have no other information on it, other than the fact that this might just be part of someone's store. regards, charlie phx, az > there is practically nothing glass note-worthy in az and nm. if you're > mormon, you can get into the tabernacle in salt lake city but that's all i > know about things there. i don't know of anything in co outside of some > large pieces in the air force academy in colorado springs. > > there's a lot in las vegas in the new casinos. > > regards, > charlie > phx, az > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Walden, Kit [mailto:KitW@MAIL.AOC.STATE.KY.US] > > Sent: Tuesday, September 19, 2000 11:54 AM > > To: glass@bungi.com > > Subject: NG-visiting NM,CO,AZ,UT > > > > > > Hello fellow bungians, > > > > I am visiting Colorado, New Mexico, Arizona and Utah October > > 22-November 5. > > I'd like to visit as many sites related to stained glass as possible > > (including but not limited to Frank Lloyd Wright sites), and > > I figured who > > better to point me to the best places than you all. I'd > > like to see some > > studios, churches, famous houses etc. Does anyone have any > > favorites? Or > > can you give me any ideas on where to start looking? I > > really appreciate > > any help you can give me. > > > > thanks, > > > > kit ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Sep 19 16:34:34 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 19 Sep 2000 16:04:10 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #462 built 2000-Sep-19) X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles From: "Christie A. Wood" To: Bungi Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: IGGA press release:Wheaton Village 2001 Fellowship program Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 19:01:35 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk The following announcement is provided as a service by the International guild of Glass Artists, and is not an endorsement. Christie A. Wood - IGGA Exec. Director North Wales, PA USA -------------Forwarded Message----------------- From: "mbimm", INTERNET:mbimm@email.msn.com Date: 09/19/2000 11:36 AM = FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE FROM: The Creative Glass Center of America at Wheaton Village CONTACT: Janet Peterson, Marketing and Public Relations Director TEL: (856) 825-6800, Ext.2739 P Fax: (856) 825-2410 E-MAIL: janet@wheatonvillage.org. PRESS RELEASE ANNOUNCING 2001 FELLOWSHIP PROGRAM: NEW SCHEDULE ANNOUNCED FOR THE CREATIVE GLASS CENTER = OF AMERICA 2001 FELLOWSHIP PROGRAM The Creative Glass Center of America, a division of Wheaton Village in Millville, New Jersey, announces its 2001 schedule for fellowships offered to artists working in glass. Applications and a description of studios and the application process are now available online at www.wheatonvillage.org. Session dates are: January 8 - April 6, 2001 (3 Months) April 23 - July 20, 2001 (3 Months) September 10 - October 19 (6 Weeks) October 29 - December 7 (6 Weeks) A change in the 2001 program will split the Fall session into two shorter, six-week sessions. These shorter sessions were created to broaden the program's accessibility by accommodating artists for whom a three-month long commitment would be difficult due to family demands, studios and professional commitments. The six-week sessions are also ideal for focused teams working collaboratively. = The Creative Glass Center of America offers this unique program to emerging and professional artists working in blown, cast and kiln-formed glass. Fellowships include a stipend, housing and 24-hour access to the facilities and materials. Over two hundred artists, from around the world have worked at Wheaton Village as fellowship residents in the past 17 years. In exchange, fellows donate one piece created during their residency for the permanent collection of the Museum of American Glass, recently accredited by the American Association of Museums. Wheaton Village is located in southern New Jersey, where glassmaking remains a cornerstone of the regions cultural history. The Village is the home of the Museum of American Glass, recently accredited by the American Association of Museums for its professional programs, collection management, and exhibits of over 6,500 antique and contemporary glass pieces. The Creative Glass Center of America is funded by the New Jersey State Council on the Arts, the Geraldine R. Dodge Foundation, the National Endowment for the Arts and the Mid Atlantic Arts Foundation. = For more information about CGCA's Fellowship Program and Wheaton Village, visit www.wheatonvillage.org or call 1-800-998-4552, ext. 2733.= ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Sep 19 17:47:34 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 19 Sep 2000 17:35:42 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #463 built 2000-Sep-19) X-Path: waterw.com!artglass From: "pj friend" To: "Spitzer, Charlie" , Subject: Re: NG-visiting NM,CO,AZ,UT Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 20:20:11 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>> Precedence: bulk I wouldn't say that........New Mexico Military Institute has some pretty noteworthy work in the Alumni Chapel. pj Paul Friend Architectural Glass & Design, Inc. www.waterw.com/~artglass Accredited Studio Member of the Stained Glass Association of America Member International Guild of Glass Artists Associate Member AIA ----- Original Message ----- From: "Spitzer, Charlie" To: Sent: Tuesday, September 19, 2000 4:38 PM Subject: RE: NG-visiting NM,CO,AZ,UT > there is practically nothing glass note-worthy in az and nm. if you're > mormon, you can get into the tabernacle in salt lake city but that's all i > know about things there. i don't know of anything in co outside of some > large pieces in the air force academy in colorado springs. > > there's a lot in las vegas in the new casinos. > > regards, > charlie > phx, az > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Walden, Kit [mailto:KitW@MAIL.AOC.STATE.KY.US] > > Sent: Tuesday, September 19, 2000 11:54 AM > > To: glass@bungi.com > > Subject: NG-visiting NM,CO,AZ,UT > > > > > > Hello fellow bungians, > > > > I am visiting Colorado, New Mexico, Arizona and Utah October > > 22-November 5. > > I'd like to visit as many sites related to stained glass as possible > > (including but not limited to Frank Lloyd Wright sites), and > > I figured who > > better to point me to the best places than you all. I'd > > like to see some > > studios, churches, famous houses etc. Does anyone have any > > favorites? Or > > can you give me any ideas on where to start looking? I > > really appreciate > > any help you can give me. > > > > thanks, > > > > kit > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Sep 19 18:03:18 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 19 Sep 2000 17:55:15 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #463 built 2000-Sep-19) X-Path: slonet.org!edupjohn From: "Peggy W. Johnsen" To: officerjqg@policeone.com Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Subject: Re: Mirors Continued Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 16:41:52 -0700 (PDT) Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>> Precedence: bulk James: Have you thought about edging the mirror using 1/4 inch brass came? Then you can solder the overlay onto the brass came and it isn't likely to come apart. Of course, the mirror would need to have straight lines but once the brass came was soldered around the mirror, this would make it fairly strong. Peggy ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Sep 19 20:25:00 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 19 Sep 2000 20:04:37 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #463 built 2000-Sep-19) X-Path: aol.com!Beveler4 From: Beveler4@aol.com To: KitW@MAIL.AOC.STATE.KY.US Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Subject: Re: NG-visiting NM,CO,AZ,UT Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 22:56:16 EDT Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk Hi Kit. One other place that was not mentioned and is well worth the time to visit is the Power Brothers Studio in Scottsdale Az. They are just a bunch of down to earth brothers from Cleveland Ohio that landed in AZ and do some incredible work most of which is a western mode. They have some of there work on hand at the studio to see and always have something interesting on the tables being built.And while you are there ask to see the 500 watt iron that they use for soldering YES I said 500 watt. This is a glass junkie must stop!! Tell them that the Beveler said Hi Beveler4 (Stan) ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Sep 20 10:05:10 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 20 Sep 2000 09:50:05 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #465 built 2000-Sep-20) X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles From: "Christie A. Wood" To: Bungi Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Re:Help with opening a file... Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2000 12:34:55 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk Thanks to everyone who offered to help. We've been able to discover that there were 3 graphics files embedded within a text message, and have successfully extracted the 3 files and changed them to .jpg format so I can see them. Yall are the best! Christie A. Wood North Wales, PA USA ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Sep 20 20:18:19 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 20 Sep 2000 20:05:34 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #466 built 2000-Sep-20) X-Path: policeone.com!officerjqg From: officerjqg@policeone.com To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain Subject: NGR (Checks) Date: 20 Sep 2000 16:04:54 -0700 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk Does anyone have or seen checks (personal or buisnes) that are stained glass themed. I need to order some checks and what better way to promote it than this. Thanks in advance. James ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Sep 20 21:52:12 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 20 Sep 2000 21:34:28 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #466 built 2000-Sep-20) X-Path: home.com!cecnralph From: cecnralph To: Bungi Glass Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Subject: stunning use of glass Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2000 22:55:01 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Organization: Grendel Studio Precedence: bulk If you can lay your hands on the Fall 2000 copy of the "Washington, Maryland, Virginia Home & Design, check out the full page photo on page 47, and on page A4 of the supplement is an ad for the glass (by Nathan Allan, Glass Studios Inc - Cast Glass). One would assume it was not only cast but tempered? Still don't know how practical it is - I can see me dripping something heavy on it and destroying it. Still, I really really covet it. Some of the pieces are HUGE. I'd love to see how they make the stuff. Also on page 74 is an ad for sledd/winger glassworks (Richmond VA) and on the next page an ad for AIG (Art in Glass - Frederick MD) - two really fine regional firms who exhibit at the top notch juried national shows (maybe international for all I know) I've drooled over the sledd/winger stuff at the Spring ACC show many times. Neither ad shows the more interesting work they've done, however. The periodical is published locally in Columbia MD, but they do list a web site which I haven't seen - www.HomeandDesign.com - Cec -- ********************************************************************* * Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood and/or Ralph Bernard Wood * Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy) ****E†1„************************************************************* ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Sep 21 19:46:39 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 21 Sep 2000 19:28:42 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #468 built 2000-Sep-21) X-Path: pro-ns.net!jdahlin From: "J. Dahlin" To: officerjqg@policeone.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: Re: NGR (Checks) Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 21:14:49 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>> Precedence: bulk I ordered checks from Designer Checks, P.O. Box 9200 Anniston, AL 36202-9200. I think I found them on the internet with a buy 3 get 1 free box. Try designerchecks.com. The checks I got were called chapel windows (or something like that) and they consist of four different window designs. The checks are in blue, lavender, yellow and green backgrounds with a small window on the left side. I think they are kind of neat and thought they were very appropriate for anyone doing stained glass. They do have a bible verse on them from Psalms. Hope this helps. Joanne ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Sep 22 08:51:10 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 22 Sep 2000 08:35:01 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #470 built 2000-Sep-22) X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles From: "Christie A. Wood" To: John Grafton , Bungi Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Looking to contact the Isenbergs Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 11:31:12 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk Bungians, If anyone has contact information for Anita & Seymour Isenberg, the authors of "How to Work in Stained Glass" and other books, please contact John Grafton (contact info below) and myself. I don't have their information in my files, and would like to add this info. Thanks! ...Christie A. Wood, IGGA Exec. Director Art Glass Ensembles, North Wales, PA Ensembles@compuserve.com Message text written by John Grafton >Greetings: We're interested in contacting Anita and Seymour Isenberg, authors of How= to Work in Beveled Glass and other books. Could you put us in touch with= them? Many thanks in advance. I look forward to hearing from you. Sincerely, John Grafton Reprint Editor Dover Publications, Inc., 9/21/2000 ******************* John W. Grafton Dover Publications, Inc. 31 E. 2nd St. Mineola NY 11501 516-294-7000 fax: 516-873-1401< ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Sep 22 12:09:27 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 22 Sep 2000 11:51:45 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #470 built 2000-Sep-22) X-Path: stratus.com!Charlie_Spitzer From: "Spitzer, Charlie" To: "'glass@bungi.com'" Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: lifetime supply of cheap flux brushes Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 11:44:40 -0700 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk http://www.rockler.com/findit.cfm?page=5813&sid=V1705 50 for $7. regards, charlie phx, az ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Sep 22 19:55:54 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 22 Sep 2000 19:35:43 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #472 built 2000-Sep-22) X-Path: prodigy.net!Carolynmt From: "Carolyn Taylor" To: Content-Type: multipart/alternative; Subject: Elephant Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 22:21:35 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Organization: Prodigy Internet Precedence: bulk This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0029_01C024E3.7825E760 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I'm looking for a pattern or good picture of an elephant . Any help = would be greatly appreciated. Please answer off Bungi. = Carolyn ------=_NextPart_000_0029_01C024E3.7825E760 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I'm looking for a  pattern or good picture of = an elephant=20 . Any help would be greatly appreciated. Please answer off=20 Bungi.
 
          &nbs= p;            = ;            =             &= nbsp;           &n= bsp;           &nb= sp;    =20 Carolyn
------=_NextPart_000_0029_01C024E3.7825E760-- ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Sep 23 07:31:58 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sat, 23 Sep 2000 07:06:23 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #473 built 2000-Sep-23) X-Path: gdi.net!shodge From: Skip Hodge To: "Spitzer, Charlie" Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: Re: lifetime supply of cheap flux brushes Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 10:07:56 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>> Precedence: bulk Spitzer, Charlie wrote: > > http://www.rockler.com/findit.cfm?page=5813&sid=V1705 > > 50 for $7. > > regards, > charlie > phx, az > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass Are you nuts I sell 'em all day for a dime full retail. (thats 50 for $5.00) Skip Southern Exposure Stained Glass Supply, Inc ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Sep 23 08:33:24 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sat, 23 Sep 2000 08:06:53 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #473 built 2000-Sep-23) X-Path: bright.net!arasai From: "Sarah" To: Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Wolf Suncatcher Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 11:00:59 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk Clear DayHi all, I'm looking for a pattern to make a wolf's head suncatcher, or a small panel. I need it for a birthday in December. Any help would be appreciated! Sarah ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Sep 23 10:40:31 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sat, 23 Sep 2000 10:32:57 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #473 built 2000-Sep-23) X-Path: aol.com!PookyPook From: PookyPook@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Subject: 3-D sled Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 13:28:10 EDT Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk Has anyone made the 3-D sled in "Christmas Traditions in Glass"? If so, please email me.. I cannot seem to figure out just what they want and really want to make it. Thanks Ruth pookypook@AOL.com http://members.aol.com/RTSkeeter http://members.aol.com/Alyeska222 ICQ11716411 "Ever stop to think and forget to start again?" ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Sep 23 11:02:14 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sat, 23 Sep 2000 10:58:16 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #473 built 2000-Sep-23) X-Path: home.com!cecnralph From: cecnralph To: Stained Glass Lamps , Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Subject: Re: stunning use of glass Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 13:41:05 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> References: <<001e01c0254d$907d1580$5f5cbdcc@C175568-A.laporte1.in.home.com>> Organization: Grendel Studio Precedence: bulk Christine Snyder found this web site: http://nathanallan.com/default.htm for viewing this studio's work. The article I was referring to is also online at www.HomeandDesign.com. And I'm certain there is a phone number listed on their site. - Cec Stained Glass Lamps wrote: > Hi Cec, > Where would i go to find this copy of the "Washington Maryland, Virginia > Home & Design??? I live in Indiana. Would love to get it & read it. Hope > you can help me out. Thank you & have a good day. > (Mary) Web site www.stainedglasslamps.com > Thanks again in advance. > ************** ***************** *************** > ****** > -----Original Message----- > From: cecnralph > To: Bungi Glass > Date: Wednesday, September 20, 2000 11:59 PM > Subject: stunning use of glass > > >If you can lay your hands on the Fall 2000 copy of the "Washington, > >Maryland, Virginia Home & Design, check out the full page photo on page > >47, and on page A4 of the supplement is an ad for the glass (by Nathan > >Allan, Glass Studios Inc - Cast Glass). > > > >One would assume it was not only cast but tempered? Still don't know > >how practical it is - I can see me dripping something heavy on it and > >destroying it. Still, I really really covet it. Some of the pieces are > >HUGE. I'd love to see how they make the stuff. > > > >Also on page 74 is an ad for sledd/winger glassworks (Richmond VA) and > >on the next page an ad for AIG (Art in Glass - Frederick MD) - two > >really fine regional firms who exhibit at the top notch juried national > >shows (maybe international for all I know) I've drooled over the > >sledd/winger stuff at the Spring ACC show many times. Neither ad shows > >the more interesting work they've done, however. > > > >The periodical is published locally in Columbia MD, but they do list a > >web site which I haven't seen - www.HomeandDesign.com - Cec > > > >-- > >********************************************************************* > >* Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood and/or Ralph Bernard Wood > >* Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy) > >****E?1„************************************************************* > > > > > >---- > >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > >To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass -- ********************************************************************* * Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood and/or Ralph Bernard Wood * Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy) ********************************************************************* ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Sep 23 11:10:21 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sat, 23 Sep 2000 11:00:55 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #473 built 2000-Sep-23) X-Path: aol.com!PookyPook From: PookyPook@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Subject: Colored Foils Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 13:30:36 EDT Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk I saw some foil today at the Op Shop that is silver and brass instead of the copper. Why would anyone want to use that since you solder over the foil anyway?? Or am I missing something? They couldn't tell me so I am really curious. Ruth pookypook@AOL.com http://members.aol.com/RTSkeeter http://members.aol.com/Alyeska222 ICQ11716411 "Ever stop to think and forget to start again?" ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Sep 23 11:19:26 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sat, 23 Sep 2000 10:59:13 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #473 built 2000-Sep-23) X-Path: home.com!cecnralph From: cecnralph To: Carol , Bungi Glass Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Subject: Re: sort of glass firing schedules Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 13:24:57 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> References: <<39CC2E34.82F0C8E5@voyageur.ca>> Organization: Grendel Studio Precedence: bulk The kiln works fine, but the controller had problems (it was an old controller, though never used). It looks like it is a board failure, but I boxed up both the board and the thermocouple to tbe taken back to the supplier, so they can test them. A thermocouple replacement will cost about $90 wholesale, and the board would be around $350, but if you send the bad board back, it will cost $205. I've only done one batch, but all melted to a nearly full fuse - just what I wanted, and no breakage, so I assume it was a good fuse. I was fusing glass all from the same sheet of original, so I know there were no incompatibility problems. When the electrician installed the special plug, he remarked there was JUST enough unused incoming juice for that circuit. The outlet has only one plug-in, not two as you'd expect. However that one plug-in is a dual type that will accept an ordinary 3-prong or two prong plug, as well as the funky one from the kiln or controller. When the controller is working, the kiln plugs into the controller which plugs into the wall. It takes a LONG time for the kiln to achieve full fuse (4 hours) so I doubt if I have to worry about too rapid a rise in temperatures. Not having any thermometer, I crashed it til it had nearly lost it's red glow, shut the lid and didn't open til the next day. I had more difficulty with the kiln wash than anything. I made it too thick - about the consistancy I'd use for thick tall fluffy pancakes. I think next time I'll do it much more runny - more like thin pancake batter. I might as well have been thickening slip on a plaster bat. Of course that was the first time the shelf or bottom had been washed so maybe after cleaning the old wash off, it won't absorb quite so fast and so much.I also found that the hake brush shed hairs all over the place, but maybe that will stop once the brush has been used several times (hope springs eternal). Did you get Brad's book? It really is good - plus he had wonderful color photos of what things look like, and marvelous and inspiring glass projects done by all sorts of creative and inventive people. Now I just need time... - Cec Carol wrote: > Dear Cecily > > I have been very interested in reading your post re your new kiln. Have > you got it up and running? We have also purchased a kiln it is a > evenheat. Have not had time to unpack it yet. Would appreciate any all > help. Looks like Shar Moorman tests could be useful. When you posted > them I could not retrieve them of my computer. Would you please e-mail > me a copy also. I hope to get information from Bob Ducharme ?sp also I > find him so helpful read the post. Well everyone on Bungi for that > matter. Hope I am posting this correctly. > > Thanks so very much > Carol -- ********************************************************************* * Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood and/or Ralph Bernard Wood * Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy) ********************************************************************* ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Sep 23 11:26:21 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sat, 23 Sep 2000 11:01:17 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #473 built 2000-Sep-23) X-Path: home.com!cecnralph From: cecnralph To: Bungi Glass Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Subject: Cord for assembling glass wind chime Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 13:34:07 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Organization: Grendel Studio Precedence: bulk I need to know what to use as cord for assembling a glass wind chime. Each piece of the chime has an interior hole so the cord can be tied to it. However, I've noticed that the first thing to fail on my wind chime collection is the cord - s especially if the chime has a sail, that sail is the first thing to go. Chimes that are all aligned in a row (like some of the hollow tubes) stay together pretty good, but ones that float around also find themselves on the ground fairly quickly. I think any monofiliment cord (like fishing line) is out. I also don't want to use the wire, fiber wrapped cords because I think metal fatigue will set in at some point. I have several chimes that just haven't broken, and they used a multifiliment cord that looks like stuff used in jewelry. I'm looking for a pretty thin, but indestructable cord. Any advice? -- ********************************************************************* * Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood and/or Ralph Bernard Wood * Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy) ********************************************************************* ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Sep 23 12:01:38 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sat, 23 Sep 2000 11:45:52 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #473 built 2000-Sep-23) X-Path: aol.com!Bobfuses From: Bobfuses@aol.com To: PookyPook@aol.com, glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Subject: Re: Colored Foils Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 14:42:49 EDT Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk In a message dated 9/23/00 11:11:01 AM Pacific Daylight Time, PookyPook@aol.com writes: > I saw some foil today at the Op Shop that is silver and brass instead of the > copper. Why would anyone want to use that since you solder over the foil > anyway?? Or am I missing something? They couldn't tell me so I am really > curious. Foil also comes with a black back. All are useful when using clear glass, like gluechip, in a foiled piece and patining to silver, brass or black. That way the copper color of the foil does not show at the edge of the glass. Cheers, Bob in 9 2 0 2 6 Learn from the mistakes of others. You can't live long enough to make them all yourself. ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Sep 23 12:12:40 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sat, 23 Sep 2000 12:10:22 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #473 built 2000-Sep-23) X-Path: one.net!gwood From: one.net!gwood To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Re: Colored Foils Date: Sat Sep 23 12:08:56 2000 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>> Precedence: bulk I think you'll find that when unrolled, the backing is the same color as the front. With black backed foil, the color is in the adhesive and the copper is left alone. With silver and brass, there is a layer plated directly onto the foil. It is easier to just plate both sides instead of trying to plate a single side. So , while one side is going to be covered in solder, the other is not. -G ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Saturday, September 23, 2000 2:24 PM Subject: Colored Foils > I saw some foil today at the Op Shop that is silver and brass instead of the > copper. Why would anyone want to use that since you solder over the foil > anyway?? Or am I missing something? They couldn't tell me so I am really > curious. > > Ruth > pookypook@AOL.com > http://members.aol.com/RTSkeeter > http://members.aol.com/Alyeska222 > ICQ11716411 > "Ever stop to think and forget to start again?" > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Sep 23 12:17:34 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sat, 23 Sep 2000 11:46:25 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #473 built 2000-Sep-23) X-Path: island.net!seaspray From: "synergy glass" To: , Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Re: Colored Foils Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 11:50:00 -0700 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk I use them for production work. For instance, in my 3-d bevel work I use the silvered foil so I don't have to tin everything, merely solder the seams, add a hanger et voila a finished suncatcher. I suspect there's probably other uses out there too. -----Original Message----- From: PookyPook@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Date: Saturday, September 23, 2000 11:23 AM Subject: Colored Foils >I saw some foil today at the Op Shop that is silver and brass instead of the >copper. Why would anyone want to use that since you solder over the foil >anyway?? Or am I missing something? They couldn't tell me so I am really >curious. > >Ruth >pookypook@AOL.com >http://members.aol.com/RTSkeeter >http://members.aol.com/Alyeska222 >ICQ11716411 >"Ever stop to think and forget to start again?" >---- >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com >To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Sep 23 12:44:40 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sat, 23 Sep 2000 12:34:22 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #473 built 2000-Sep-23) X-Path: ix.netcom.com!gunnx4 From: Suzanne Gunn To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: Re: Colored Foils Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 14:26:58 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>> Precedence: bulk Sometimes with the brass foil you dont solder over all the foil...depending on what you want to do. I had a person with a display box that was in need of repair. They had me build them a new box, use brass foil, and just tack the corners which I painted with gold deco color paint pen. It was surprizingly solid, but I wouldnt want any one handling it much. Suzanne daver!one.net!gwood wrote: > > I think you'll find that when unrolled, the backing is the same color as the > front. > With black backed foil, the color is in the adhesive and the copper is left > alone. > With silver and brass, there is a layer plated directly onto the foil. > It is easier to just plate both sides instead of trying to plate a single > side. > So , while one side is going to be covered in solder, the other is not. > > -G > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: > To: > Sent: Saturday, September 23, 2000 2:24 PM > Subject: Colored Foils > > > I saw some foil today at the Op Shop that is silver and brass instead of > the > > copper. Why would anyone want to use that since you solder over the foil > > anyway?? Or am I missing something? They couldn't tell me so I am really > > curious. > > > > Ruth > > pookypook@AOL.com > > http://members.aol.com/RTSkeeter > > http://members.aol.com/Alyeska222 > > ICQ11716411 > > "Ever stop to think and forget to start again?" > > ---- > > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > > > > > > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Sep 23 13:01:42 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sat, 23 Sep 2000 12:44:40 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #473 built 2000-Sep-23) X-Path: oanet.com!sigoma From: sigoma@oanet.com To: Bungi Glass Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: Canadian Kilns Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 13:40:20 -0600 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk I am looking to purchase a kiln in the near future and would appreciate any information you would be good enough to provide me with. I live in Alberta and have been unable to find a wholesale supplier. The only names I have seen mentioned are as follows: Skutt Euclid Paragon Evenheat, any favorites out there? It will be in a small studio and will be used for masks, plates, lampshades etc. The man that will use it has been in stained glass for 30 years although he retired from the professional end 10 years ago. I require a very reliable unit or two if needed. Thank you in advance for any help. Lynn ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Sep 23 14:18:00 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sat, 23 Sep 2000 14:13:32 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #473 built 2000-Sep-23) X-Path: MAIL.AOC.STATE.KY.US!KitW From: "Walden, Kit" To: Bungi Glass Content-Type: text/plain Subject: NG-trip to UT, CO, AZ, NM PLUS...looking for overseas apprentices Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 15:20:13 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk Fellow Bungians, Thank you so much for you input on my trip to New Mexico, Utah, Arizona and Colorado. I really appreciate the responses I got privately and on the list. Now I have a really tough one for you. I have had my own studio and business in Kentucky for a couple of years. I do a good business, but I want more. Not more business but more of a challenge. I have a deep interest in historical preservation and restoration and have made a big decision. I am offering myself for a job or apprenticeship in stained glass in England, Scotland, Ireland or Wales. I am willing to discuss any opportunity with anyone who might be able to use me. I'm willing, able and enthusiastic and I can bring knowledge and experience in computers, networks, and web design to the table. (I'm not sure if that helps, but I thought I'd throw it in...) Do any of you have any ideas? thanks! kit Tuilelaith's Stained Glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Sep 23 14:31:23 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sat, 23 Sep 2000 14:04:35 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #473 built 2000-Sep-23) X-Path: pacbell.net!ezbongo2 From: rrk To: Skip Hodge , Bungi Group Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: Re: lifetime supply of cheap flux brushes Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 14:03:02 -0700 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@mta3.snfc21.pbi.net>> Precedence: bulk Skip Hodge wrote: > > > > > http://www.rockler.com/findit.cfm?page=5813&sid=V1705 > > > > 50 for $7. > > Spitzer, Charlie wrote: > Are you nuts I sell 'em all day for a dime full retail. (thats 50 for > $5.00) Hi Skip and Charlie, Grizzly (wood and metal working tools) has a "mixed box" (3/8" and 3/4" bristles) for $7.95. You both have better deals than that. Later .... Bob ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Sep 23 22:01:03 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sat, 23 Sep 2000 21:32:39 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #473 built 2000-Sep-23) X-Path: home.net!esavad From: "Mike Savad" To: , Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: RE: Colored Foils Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 22:40:28 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>> Precedence: bulk brass is a good covering foil. i use it when i put removable dividers in a box. or maybe for a basic bevel hanger for a window. silver, is good for a box with a tight configuration. kaleidoscopes, or anything else where it's hard to get into. i don't use it much though. silver back foil is designed for mirrors and clear glass, when you leave the solder silver, that is. ---Mike Savad Mike's Stained Glass - Tips Tricks Photos http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141 4-6-2000 New Pages Added: 1 new tip page: Help buying stained glass, updated info on the about me page, and 3 window set's for skycity. Including lot's of new links, and more FREE PATTERN links. > -----Original Message----- > From: PookyPook@aol.com [mailto:PookyPook@aol.com] > Sent: Saturday, September 23, 2000 1:31 PM > To: glass@bungi.com > Subject: Colored Foils > > > I saw some foil today at the Op Shop that is silver and brass > instead of the > copper. Why would anyone want to use that since you solder over the foil > anyway?? Or am I missing something? They couldn't tell me so I am really > curious. > > Ruth > pookypook@AOL.com > http://members.aol.com/RTSkeeter > http://members.aol.com/Alyeska222 > ICQ11716411 > "Ever stop to think and forget to start again?" > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Sep 24 08:32:58 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 24 Sep 2000 08:07:38 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #473 built 2000-Sep-23) X-Path: bright.net!arasai From: "Sarah" To: Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: RE: Windchime cord Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2000 11:03:37 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk The tiny plastic cord kids use to make lanyards might work for your windchimes. It can be bought in the hobby section of any store. I wonder how fine jewelry chain would hold up? I guess it would probably rust. Heavy-duty fishing line would also work, but you would want to "melt" your knots, as they tend to come undone. ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Sep 24 09:32:08 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 24 Sep 2000 09:11:31 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #473 built 2000-Sep-23) X-Path: ns.sympatico.ca!heinze.g From: heinze.g@ns.sympatico.ca (Gail HeinzeMiline) To: sigoma@oanet.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: Re: Canadian Kilns Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2000 08:48:24 -0300 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>> Organization: Glass with Class Precedence: bulk I just received a new Evenheat kiln- haven't even plugged it in yet. It came from Kaleido Glass in Ontario. You are right- there aren't many suppliers up here. The controller for this kiln is made in Canada, and the kiln comes from Michigan I think. This kiln was recommended to me by other bungians, and is the only one we could find through Canadian suppliers. Tech support seems very good,too. I emailed a question and had an answer within three hours. My electrician comes next week - I can't wait to turn it on. Good luck! Gail in Nova Scotia sigoma@oanet.com wrote: > I am looking to purchase a kiln in the near future and would appreciate > any information you would be good enough to provide me with. I live in > Alberta and have been unable to find a wholesale supplier. The only > names I have seen mentioned are as follows: Skutt > Euclid > Paragon > Evenheat, any favorites out > there? It will be in a small studio and will be used for masks, plates, > lampshades etc. The man that will use it has been in stained glass for > 30 years although he retired from the professional end 10 years ago. I > require a very reliable unit or two if needed. Thank you in advance > for any help. Lynn > > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass -- ----------------------------------------------------- Click here for Free Video!! http://www.gohip.com/free_video/ ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Sep 24 10:31:20 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 24 Sep 2000 10:06:25 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #473 built 2000-Sep-23) X-Path: aol.com!PookyPook From: PookyPook@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Subject: RIG update Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2000 12:58:00 EDT Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk Hi gang, Dawn, I haven't sent Ginger out yet. I am: 1. waiting on some glass paints to come for the eyes and 2. having trouble finding a box. Her eyes are done, except that she needs the black pupil. It is the pupil, right? or is the iris... either way, she needs it. Buster and Annie are basically done but I am, once again, waiting on the paints. The eyes themselves are glass.. just cannot get the glass small enough for the black parts.. {{shudder, shudder, shudder!!!}} So I will be working on one of these... Booney, Wicca, Cody, Dagwood, Stubby. Not necessarily in that order.. depends on if I want a challenge or not! <> Believe it or not, Anne, but Dagwood is going to be a challenge the way his face is!! But, I won't be mailing Booney out.. will hand it to Sue personally when she gets here in about 1 to 2 weeks!! Can't wait to meet her and Booney!! Since I didn't get any negative vibes about posting to the group on this, I will continue... I will still send the photos out on the list plus put them up on Photopoint for those of you on digest. Oh, I am setting a cut-off date for the $10 orders on September 30. THIS IS ONLY FOR THE ONES WHO HAVEN'T MADE UP THEIR MINDS!! DOES NOT INCLUDE THE ONES WHO HAVE SAID YES BUT HAVEN'T GOTTEN THEIR PHOTOS TO ME.... I STILL will make any you guys want after that, they just will be the "full" price. Doesn't mean that I will have them done by September 30. Hope this is as clear as mud!! I finally got a lamp together that I have only had finished for over a year!! Rather, I finally made Bob put it together.. he loves it so much that now he wants me to make a Jack-O'Lantern lamp for Halloween!! SHEESH!!! And I may make a Christmas one for ME.... Anyway, if anyone wants to see it, I can send you the photo off list. It will be going up on my web page.. IF and WHEN I get to it... SIGH, SIGH, SIGH Ruth pookypook@AOL.com http://members.aol.com/RTSkeeter http://members.aol.com/Alyeska222 ICQ11716411 "Ever stop to think and forget to start again?" ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Sep 24 12:31:15 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 24 Sep 2000 12:17:21 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #473 built 2000-Sep-23) X-Path: worldnet.att.net!Moya-Don From: "D. ONeal" To: Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Cord for wind chime Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2000 14:51:18 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk Cec, How about attaching a jump ring made from wire to your sail piece and then attaching the cord to the wire jump ring. It should hold just fine. Moya ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Sep 24 14:16:30 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 24 Sep 2000 14:09:20 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #474 built 2000-Sep-24) X-Path: aol.com!PookyPook From: PookyPook@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Subject: I Apologize Profusely!!! Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2000 17:07:46 EDT Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk I am soooo sorry!!! I sent the email to the wrong group!!! Can't believe I did that!!!! Please, please, please forgive!! My face is a nice crimson color...would be a lovely glass color ... I will go quietly to the corner and wear the dunces cap and just lurk for a while... Again, my sincerest apologies!!!!!!!!! Ruth pookypook@AOL.com http://members.aol.com/RTSkeeter http://members.aol.com/Alyeska222 ICQ11716411 "Ever stop to think and forget to start again?" ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sun Sep 24 17:30:53 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sun, 24 Sep 2000 17:21:58 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #474 built 2000-Sep-24) X-Path: island.net!seaspray From: "synergy glass" To: "D. ONeal" , Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Re: Cord for wind chime Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2000 12:59:52 -0700 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk This was discussed on bungi about a year ago and I think the final consensus was to use something made for the jewelry folk called tiger tail, or lion tail or something like that. Seems this stuff is much more tough than fish line. Must confess I only read it in passing. Maybe try a bead store??? C. Carol Swann Synergy Glass & Creative www.igga.org/synergy seaspray@island.net -----Original Message----- From: D. ONeal To: glass@bungi.com Date: Sunday, September 24, 2000 12:38 PM Subject: Cord for wind chime >Cec, >How about attaching a jump ring made from wire to your sail piece and then >attaching the cord to the wire jump ring. It should hold just fine. >Moya > >---- >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com >To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Sep 25 07:31:14 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 25 Sep 2000 07:29:30 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #474 built 2000-Sep-24) X-Path: home.com!cecnralph From: Cecily & Ralph Wood To: Bungi Glass Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Subject: Re: Cord for assembling glass wind chime Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2000 23:42:32 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> References: <<006c01c025ba$af5fa680$921dd2d1@Shari>> Organization: Grendel Studio Precedence: bulk Thanks to all who replied - This is a place where supplies can be located, and the product seems to be Tiger Tail or Softflex. A friend has their catalog, so I'll see what they have. www.firemountaingems.com and their phone # is 1-800-423-2319. I tried the local craft stores, and yes they have beading supplies, but the amount of "thread" in the packages they sell is miniscule, and I'll bet there's about a 600 percent markup. I'd have to get 8 packages, just for one chime, and even then I'm not certain the cord would be long enough. Since these may turn out to be Xmas presents this year, I'm looking for a BIG spool of the stuff. Plus, they don't have much that is really suitable - lanyard stuff is too big, leather will rot, waxed linen will rot as well (maybe not so fast), and that satiny tubing wouldn't hold long either. And we all know fishing line doesn't do the trick. Tech note (computer): I've cut and pasted, using Netscape 4.75 on the Mac, and the way I have to be able to enable links, is in HTML. It will be interesting to see if this is another blank message (to me included) because my Netscape settings are (always have been) to send both HTML and text. - Cec Shari wrote: > Tiger tail or Softflex--both available at bead stores and jewelry supply > catalogs. They are thin metal--I think tiger tail has 7 metal filiments > twisted together and Softflex (much more expensive) has 49 filiments. I use > both to make lampwork bead jewelry and I think the cheaper tiger tail would > be a good choice for wind chimes. No stretching, and I doubt much wear and > tear with the weather. > Shari > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "cecnralph" > To: "Bungi Glass" > Sent: Saturday, September 23, 2000 11:34 AM > Subject: Cord for assembling glass wind chime > > > I need to know what to use as cord for assembling a glass wind chime. > > Each piece of the chime has an interior hole so the cord can be tied to > > it. However, I've noticed that the first thing to fail on my wind chime > > collection is the cord - s > > especially if the chime has a sail, that sail is the first thing to go. > > Chimes that are all aligned in a row (like some of the hollow tubes) > > stay together pretty good, but ones that float around also find > > themselves on the ground fairly quickly. > > > > I think any monofiliment cord (like fishing line) is out. I also don't > > want to use the wire, fiber wrapped cords because I think metal fatigue > > will set in at some point. I have several chimes that just haven't > > broken, and they used a multifiliment cord that looks like stuff used in > > jewelry. I'm looking for a pretty thin, but indestructable cord. Any > > advice? > > > > -- > > ********************************************************************* > > * Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood and/or Ralph Bernard Wood > > * Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy) > > ********************************************************************* > > > > > > ---- > > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > > -- ********************************************** * Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood and/or Ralph Bernard Wood * * Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy) * ********************************************** ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Sep 25 10:24:39 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 25 Sep 2000 10:05:41 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #474 built 2000-Sep-24) X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles From: "Christie A. Wood" To: Bungi Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Cord for assembling glass wind chime Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 13:04:25 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk Message text written by cecnralph >I think any monofiliment cord (like fishing line) is out. I also don't want to use the wire, fiber wrapped cords because I think metal fatigue will set in at some point. I have several chimes that just haven't broken, and they used a multifiliment cord that looks like stuff used in jewelry. I'm looking for a pretty thin, but indestructable cord. Any advice?< What's your reason for not using monofiliment cord? I use it and really like it. Christie A. Wood North Wales, PA USA ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Mon Sep 25 14:34:35 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Mon, 25 Sep 2000 14:30:55 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #474 built 2000-Sep-24) X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles From: "Christie A. Wood" To: Bungi , Ann Baxter-CGG Editor , Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: IGGA Press Release:Fenton Glass Studio Fall/Winter workshops Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 16:36:13 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk The following listing is provided as a service by the International Guild of Glass Artists (IGGA), and does not necessarily imply an endorsement. Christie A. Wood - IGGA Exec. Director North Wales, PA USA ---------------------------------- Fenton Glass Studio - Moon Mountain Fall/Winter Workshops 2000 Dan Fenton and Patricia O'Doherty, Instructors Pate de verre and kiln cast glass $585.00 Sept. 27 - Oct. 1 5 days:Wed-Sun Sandblast etching, shading, and carving $375.00 Oct. 20-22 3 days: Fri-Sun Glory hole Murrini/Advanced fusing $375.00 Oct. 24-26 3 days: Tue-Thu Traditional Painting on glass $225.00 with Richard Millard Oct. 28 1 day: Sat Color Composition for stained glass $225.00 with Richard Millard Oct. 29 1 day:Sun Problem solving for kilnwork $150.00 Oct 28 1 day: Sat Moldmaking for slumping and casting $150.00 Oct. 29 1 day:Sun Fired-on emanels, lusters, and ices $400.00 Oct 30-Nov 1 3 days: Mon-Wed. Glass under heat:Fusing, slumping and moldmaking $585.00 Nov. 9-13 5 days: Thur-Mon Pate de verre with Murrini inclusions $375.00 Nov 17-19 3 days: Fri-Sun Special effects for stained glass imagery: etching & painting $425.00 with Peter McGrain Dec. 1-3 3 days: Fri-Sun Sculptural glass bead making $425.00 with Sharon Peters Dec. 1-3 3 days: Fri-Sun Advanced fusing: Composition with multiple firings $400.00 Dec. 8-10 3 days: Fri-Sun More information about each class is available upon request. A 50% deposit is required to hold your place in any class. Fenton Glass Studio - Moon Mountain 851 81st Ave. #201, Oakland, CA 94621 phone (510) 638-1313 fax (510) 638-1314 email: fentonglass@jps.net www.cyberthings.com/fenton ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Sep 26 07:06:17 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 26 Sep 2000 06:53:37 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #474 built 2000-Sep-24) X-Path: aol.com!NEICYDENN From: NEICYDENN@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Subject: Re: Cord for assembling glass wind chime Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 09:52:25 EDT Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk I am very interested in making some wind chimes. Does anyone have pictures posted or directions available? Thanks in advance! denise ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Sep 26 10:01:22 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 26 Sep 2000 09:41:52 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #474 built 2000-Sep-24) X-Path: slonet.org!edupjohn From: "Peggy W. Johnsen" To: PookyPook@aol.com Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Subject: Re: Colored Foils Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 09:38:39 -0700 (PDT) Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>> Precedence: bulk Ruth the colored foils are made to "match" the color of patina you plan to use when working with transparent glass. When you look through the glass and see the backside of the foil and it is different than the patina, it can have a disrupting effect. PJ ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Sep 26 12:19:48 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 26 Sep 2000 12:17:50 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #474 built 2000-Sep-24) X-Path: home.com!maryloueveland From: "Mary Lou Eveland" To: , Subject: Re: Cord for assembling glass wind chime Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 13:50:01 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>> Precedence: bulk I would also be interested in pictures or instructions for wind chimes. Mary Lou ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Tuesday, September 26, 2000 8:52 AM Subject: Re: Cord for assembling glass wind chime I am very interested in making some wind chimes. Does anyone have pictures posted or directions available? Thanks in advance! denise ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Sep 26 17:41:11 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 26 Sep 2000 17:39:16 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #475 built 2000-Sep-26) X-Path: yahoo.com!barbaraelmore From: barbara elmore To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Subject: Re: Cord for assembling glass wind chime Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 17:37:37 -0700 (PDT) Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk We use monofilament fishing line in a heavy test---maybe 20 lbs?---which is really way too much for the "breeze" chime (but, think about that........if it's a wind chime people will put it in the midst of a hurricane, but a breeze chime indicates that it should be sheltered). We use the brass tubing that is usually used for stained glass boxe hinges, I don't remember the diameter, but that is what is sold as the outer tube, and that is what we use for crimping the looped fishing line. I use a Dremel tool with a fiberglass cut off wheel to cut the tubing into short pieces. Be careful. It can produce sparks (wear your safety glasses) and hold the tubing with pliers so that your hands don't get hot from the friction. DO NOT cut all the way through the tubing, but ......almost........and then store the portion in baby food jars or whatever until you need them. Break them off individually (you may need to use two pliers), and then use crimping pliers to close around both ends of the line. Believe me, regular pliers do NOT work here. Get some crimping pliers that have a good edge on them to close the gap. Beading suppliers also have crimping pliers and crimping beads, but the beads do not seem to fit the size of fishing line that we use. We/you probably don't need to use the 20 lb test or whatever, but it's kind of like heavy lamps............the buyer thinks it is sturdier, whether it is or not. Most of our chimes are made from random pieces of cut glass from other projects. We rarely even recut them, and use the existing shape, drilling a hole in the top with a diamond drill bit on the end of the Dremel with the extension, under water. We then fire polish to take the stress out of the cuts and the drilled holes, and crash cool then anneal at (? depending on the glass . . usually around 970 to 950) to strengthen the glass in the kiln. I have found that the Glastar diamond bit lasts a LONG time, and that our Dentists' bits last not very long (but, they are free if you bribe). I tried the hollow bits, but didn't have much luck. We also add beads to the string, maybe 4 to 10 depending one the size, color, etc. Have found some beads that are on EBAY that are good for this @ about $5.00 a pound. They are advertised as beads from India, and are "sweepings", but I have ordered over 6 pounds and they are not bad at all, and very varied. We are now saving more glass than ever for later drilling, firing, and new chimes, which would have been trashed. I hope this isn't too long! ===== Thank you, Barbara Elmore __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com/ ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Sep 26 20:47:25 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 26 Sep 2000 20:42:53 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #475 built 2000-Sep-26) X-Path: aol.com!Bobfuses From: Bobfuses@aol.com To: barbaraelmore@yahoo.com, glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Subject: Re: Cord for assembling glass wind chime Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 23:32:52 EDT Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk In a message dated 9/26/00 5:42:54 PM Pacific Daylight Time, barbaraelmore@yahoo.com writes: > Most of our chimes are made from random pieces of cut > glass from other projects. We rarely even recut them, > and use the existing shape, drilling a hole in the top > with a diamond drill bit on the end of the Dremel with > the extension, under water. > > We then fire polish to take the stress out of the cuts > and the drilled holes, and crash cool then anneal at > (? depending on the glass . . usually around 970 to > 950) to strengthen the glass in the kiln. Here is a case of where standard practice may not be the best. Annealed glass is not nearly as strong as tempered glass. Small pieces of glass, like for wind chimes, do not need to be annealed. It the glass is crash cooled it will achieve a degree of tempering. So........... for things like wind chimes crash cool the glass and increase the strength by perhaps three times. Full temper is about five times the strength of fully annealed glass. Cheers, Bob in 9 2 0 2 6 Learn from the mistakes of others. You can't live long enough to make them all yourself. ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Sep 26 21:17:43 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 26 Sep 2000 21:02:24 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #475 built 2000-Sep-26) X-Path: aol.com!CINDEL67 From: CINDEL67@aol.com To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Subject: Re: Cord for assembling glass wind chime Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 23:36:59 EDT Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk I, too, would be very interested in seeing a photo and directions for making windchimes. Cinda > would also be interested in pictures or instructions for wind chimes. > > Mary Lou > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: > To: > Sent: Tuesday, September 26, 2000 8:52 AM > Subject: Re: Cord for assembling glass wind chime > > > I am very interested in making some wind chimes. Does anyone have pictures > posted or directions available? > Thanks in advance! > denise > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > > > > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass > > > ----------------------- Headers -------------------------------- > Return-Path: > Received: from rly-ye05.mx.aol.com (rly-ye05.mail.aol.com [172.18.151.202]) > by air-ye03.mail.aol.com (v76_r1.3) with ESMTP; Tue, 26 Sep 2000 15:20:44 - > 0400 > Received: from daver.bungi.com (daver.bungi.com [207.126.97.2]) by rly-ye05. > mx.aol.com (v75_b3.9) with ESMTP; Tue, 26 Sep 2000 15:20:27 -0400 > Received: by daver.bungi.com > via smail with stdio > id > for rglass-42; Tue, 26 Sep 2000 12:17:50 -0700 (PDT) > (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #474 built 2000-Sep-24) > X-Path: home.com!maryloueveland > From: "Mary Lou Eveland" > To: > Subject: Re: Cord for assembling glass wind chime > Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 13:50:01 -0500 > Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> > References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>> > Precedence: bulk > > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Tue Sep 26 22:07:11 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Tue, 26 Sep 2000 21:59:00 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #475 built 2000-Sep-26) X-Path: MAIL.AOC.STATE.KY.US!KitW From: "Walden, Kit" To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain Subject: FW: NG-trip to UT, CO, AZ, NM PLUS...looking for overseas job/app Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 11:02:04 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk > Fellow Bungians, > > Thank you so much for you input on my trip to New Mexico, Utah, Arizona > and Colorado. I really appreciate the responses I got privately and on > the list. > > Now I have a really tough one for you. I have had my own studio and > business in Kentucky for a couple of years. I do a good business, but I > want more. Not more business but more of a challenge. I have a > particular interest in restoration and preservation, but mainly just want > to work and study with other stained glass artists in Scotland, Wales, > Ireland or England. I am currently seeking a position with an > established artist for the period of approximately one year. I believe I > have a lot to offer an employer; experience with stained glass; a deep > appreciation for glass, and all aspects of its history, design, creation, > installation, restoration and preservation; experience running my own > business; an overwhelming enthusiasm for the experience as well as a > wealth of knowledge of computers, networks, graphics and web design (I'm > not sure if that helps, but I thought I'd throw it in...) > > I am committed to doing this and would love to discuss any opportunity > with anyone who might be able to use me. Even if you are not in a > position to use me, I would sincerely appreciate any information you may > be able to give me on availabilities. > Can anyone help me? Does anyone any ideas? > thanks! > > kit > Tuilelaith's Stained Glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Sep 27 06:33:02 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 27 Sep 2000 06:29:39 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #475 built 2000-Sep-26) X-Path: aol.com!NEICYDENN From: NEICYDENN@aol.com To: barbaraelmore@yahoo.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Subject: Re: Cord for assembling glass wind chime Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 09:27:05 EDT Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk In a message dated 9/26/2000 7:43:02 PM Central Daylight Time, barbaraelmore@yahoo.com writes: << We use monofilament fishing line in a heavy test---maybe 20 lbs?---which is really way too much for the "breeze" chime (but, think about that...... >> Hello Barbara, Thank you for your detailed directions on wind chimes! The sad thing is, I don't have a kiln, do you think it would be unsafe to use regular unfired glass in chimes? Maybe it could just be a mobile:) thanks again, denise ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Sep 27 19:32:09 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 27 Sep 2000 19:01:22 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #478 built 2000-Sep-27) X-Path: home.com!cecnralph From: Cecily & Ralph Wood To: Bungi Glass Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Subject: Re: Cord for assembling glass wind chime Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 22:01:28 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>> Organization: Grendel Studio Precedence: bulk So you'd take the kiln up to about what temp? Then prop open and crash - the whole way? - No annealling at all? Or crash back to around what temp and then put the lid down and just let it naturally cool inside the still very very very warm kiln? - Thanks - Cec Bobfuses@aol.com wrote: > In a message dated 9/26/00 5:42:54 PM Pacific Daylight Time, > barbaraelmore@yahoo.com writes: > > > Most of our chimes are made from random pieces of cut > > glass from other projects. We rarely even recut them, > > and use the existing shape, drilling a hole in the top > > with a diamond drill bit on the end of the Dremel with > > the extension, under water. > > > > We then fire polish to take the stress out of the cuts > > and the drilled holes, and crash cool then anneal at > > (? depending on the glass . . usually around 970 to > > 950) to strengthen the glass in the kiln. > > Here is a case of where standard practice may not be the best. Annealed glass > is not nearly as strong as tempered glass. Small pieces of glass, like for > wind chimes, do not need to be annealed. It the glass is crash cooled it > will achieve a degree of tempering. So........... for things like wind chimes > crash cool the glass and increase the strength by perhaps three times. Full > temper is about five times the strength of fully annealed glass. > > Cheers, Bob in 9 2 0 2 6 > Learn from the mistakes of others. You can't live long enough to make them > all yourself. > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass -- ********************************************** * Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood and/or Ralph Bernard Wood * * Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy) * ********************************************** ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Sep 27 20:06:17 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 27 Sep 2000 19:36:26 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #478 built 2000-Sep-27) X-Path: home.com!cecnralph From: Cecily & Ralph Wood To: Bungi Glass Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Subject: Re: Colored Foils Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 22:29:13 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>> Organization: Grendel Studio Precedence: bulk Ruth - every one has touched on one or another aspect of the colored foils, but I don't think anyone has pulled it all together. There are two types of colored foils. The older type has the sticky side colored. The newer has the outside colored. The colors on the sticky side are copper, silver, or black. On opaque glass you can save a few pennies and use the sticky copper side. However, on transparent glass, unless you are going to plate your solder copper, you probably want to use the silver if the solder will be left its natural color. Many people feel that black is better on any transparent glass because it is nonreflective, so it doesn't bounce a colored reflection off the inside color. They think this minimizes the foiled "seams". Others dislike the black intensely, because it has a tendency for the black sticky to ooze onto the shiny side, making you have to clean it with chemicals before soldering, or onto the glass, so you have to clean the glass with a razor and maybe chemicals and chemicals may lesson the bond between the glass and the foil. When the shiny side is colored, you can get the normal copper, or "silver" which is really a tinned mixture like solder, or "brass" which is probably a bronze but might be actual brass. If you have ever noticed the really tiny, cheap dangly things - not stained glass but maybe little paper sayings or dried flowers, enclosed between either light-weight clear window glass, or even acrylic, they are bound on the edges with one of the colored outside foils - if light enough, they may have no solder at all - or at the most, they will have only the corners daubed with a minute amount of solder. This is why they can sell them so cheap - not a lot of work involved, nor much up front in the way of costs. It is also why they are so ephemeral. There are, of course legitimate uses for them in stained glass, also. I've noticed a lot of the beveled light catchers will be made this way, but usually with a much heaver weight of foil. And if you want a bright gold effect, unless you send a piece out to be gold-plated, that is the only way you are going to get a gold effect since there isn't any patina that will achieve gold. So if you do solder on the gold, the only way you can achieve a gold look to the solder is to use special gold paint pens on top of the solder. Hope this helps - Cec "Peggy W. Johnsen" wrote: > Ruth the colored foils are made to "match" the color of patina you plan to > use when working with transparent glass. When you look through the glass > and see the backside of the foil and it is different than the patina, it > can have a disrupting effect. PJ > > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass -- ********************************************** * Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood and/or Ralph Bernard Wood * * Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy) * ********************************************** ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Wed Sep 27 23:03:50 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Wed, 27 Sep 2000 22:51:46 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #478 built 2000-Sep-27) X-Path: aol.com!Bobfuses From: Bobfuses@aol.com To: cecnralph@home.com, glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Subject: Re: Cord for assembling glass wind chime Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2000 01:50:51 EDT Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk In a message dated 9/27/00 7:34:29 PM Pacific Daylight Time, cecnralph@home.com writes: > So you'd take the kiln up to about what temp? Then prop open and crash - the > whole way? - No annealing at all? Or crash back to around what temp and > then > put the lid down and just let it naturally cool inside the still very very > very > warm kiln? - Thanks - Cec > For fusing the kiln will go up to something like 1400 to 1500'F. Then crash cool to at least 900'F or better yet to room temperature. With pieces of glass less than about three inches square this is possible and will impart a degree of tempering making the glass much stronger. Larger pieces of glass will need to be slow cooled from about 900'F down to avoid stress cracking. Do not let the glass recover heat above 900'F after crash cooling or the partial temper will be lost. Keep good records so you will know what can be achieved with a given piece of glass and crash cooling cycle. Cheers, Bob in 9 2 0 2 6 Learn from the mistakes of others. You can't live long enough to make them all yourself. ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Thu Sep 28 16:13:22 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Thu, 28 Sep 2000 16:00:53 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #478 built 2000-Sep-27) X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles From: "Christie A. Wood" To: Shakeel Abedi , Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: IGGA website down temporarily Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2000 18:14:15 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk ...to do our annual renewal of domain name registration. Should be back = up by the time this message hits your screens. Sorry for any inconvienience= From owner-glass Fri Sep 29 06:44:55 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 29 Sep 2000 06:38:09 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #478 built 2000-Sep-27) X-Path: tir.com!jazzykid From: "Jill M" To: "Bungi" Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: New website Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 09:34:56 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk Hi all, A long time member of bungi Shari Highbee has a website of her latest glass illusions. http://www.illusionsinglass.com/ ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Sep 29 07:44:13 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 29 Sep 2000 07:29:31 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #478 built 2000-Sep-27) X-Path: attcanada.net!tuka From: To: Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Haze between windows Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 06:36:24 -0700 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk I need help, please........ I've been working on a large commission for windows for a Victorian church restoration. The first nine were installed in May 2000. The windows are copper foil with a 3/4 inch zinc border that is not puttied (to allow for air expansion when the windows get hot from the sun). The existing windows in the building are double sealed non-opening ones. A foam tape was applied to the back of the zinc and the stained glass windows were screwed directly to the wooden frames of the windows. Then a wooden moulding was installed on top of the zinc. A white haze has developed between the stained glass and the existing windows. I suspect the only way to get rid of it is to remove the mouldings, and the windows and clean them. Any idea what has caused this and how to prevent it in future? Thanks in advance Shiela ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Sep 29 08:53:54 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 29 Sep 2000 08:28:50 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #478 built 2000-Sep-27) X-Path: erols.com!deethom From: Dee Thompson To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Subject: Re: New website Date: Sat, 30 Sep 2000 10:59:05 -0400 Message-ID: <3.0.32.20000930105903.00d5cbf4@pop.erols.com> Precedence: bulk Your beads are lovely, and so is the web site! You've inspired me to dust off the torch again! Dee >A long time member of bungi Shari Highbee has a website of her latest glass >illusions. > >http://www.illusionsinglass.com/ > ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Sep 29 10:08:57 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 29 Sep 2000 09:45:30 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #478 built 2000-Sep-27) X-Path: ilnk.com!andor From: "Linda Jo Letscher" To: "Jill M" , Subject: Re: New website Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 12:17:19 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk And it is great, she did a super job. Thanks, Linda Jo -----Original Message----- From: Jill M To: Bungi Date: Friday, September 29, 2000 10:01 AM Subject: New website >Hi all, > >A long time member of bungi Shari Highbee has a website of her latest glass >illusions. > >http://www.illusionsinglass.com/ > >---- >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com >To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Sep 29 10:39:21 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 29 Sep 2000 10:01:28 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #478 built 2000-Sep-27) X-Path: aol.com!GlassLites From: GlassLites@aol.com To: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Subject: Re: Haze between windows Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 12:16:36 EDT Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk I'm no expert. But it sounds like you have not sufficiently vented the space between the glass. Others with more experience can probably suggest ways to do this. Cheryl Lowe Glass Lites Studio ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Sep 29 15:51:41 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 29 Sep 2000 15:15:24 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #478 built 2000-Sep-27) X-Path: attcanada.net!tuka From: To: Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Venting windows to prevent haze - another question Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 08:04:58 -0700 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk Thanks to all who replied on my haze problem with the windows..... now, the $64,000 question..... how can they be installed so there is sufficient air movement to prevent this happening in future? My client is very clear that there has to be the wood moulding installed over the stained glass window edges. This is a heritage building and the trim around the stained glass has to match the rest of the trim in the building or they will not be happy with the finished product. Thanks again Shiela ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Sep 29 17:23:27 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 29 Sep 2000 16:35:04 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #478 built 2000-Sep-27) X-Path: home.com!lorley From: Lorley Oneyear To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Subject: cracked glass Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 16:24:38 -0700 Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20000929162120.00ab8820@mail.rdc1.az.home.com> Precedence: bulk Our black lab bumped up against a sheet of glass and it fell against a wooden leg of my work bench. The dog is fine, but the glass cracked and broke a bit. The glass is a real light glue chip type glass. I think they call it"oceana"?? With all those swirls and chips in the glass design, how will I know if the glass is or is not really cracked? Lorley ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Sep 29 18:38:39 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 29 Sep 2000 18:04:44 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #479 built 2000-Sep-29) X-Path: go.com!officerjqg From: James Garner To: glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Subject: Gold (in them thar hills) Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 14:07:17 -0700 (PDT) Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk My wife got an order for stained glass angle ornaments that we are doing this year. The orderer really wants gold soderlines. I saw in the foil debate a mentioning of gold paint pens. If I used those how shiny gold are they and how durable are they. Or, is there a better way. Keep in mind that these are not the magnificent works of art we normal do (my Mom told me they are so they must be). They are two pieces of glass cut wings body foiled and sodered one on top of the other with flat backed faceted jewels. Simple little better tan the plastic crap at Valu-Mart. James James Garner ___________________________________________________ GO.com Mail Get Your Free, Private E-mail at http://mail.go.com ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Fri Sep 29 19:46:45 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Fri, 29 Sep 2000 19:32:15 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #479 built 2000-Sep-29) X-Path: ix.netcom.com!gunnx4 From: Suzanne Gunn To: James Garner Content-Type: text/plain; charset=x-user-defined Subject: Re: Gold (in them thar hills) Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 20:56:03 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>> Precedence: bulk It looks good enough to paint the joints on very expensive brass doors. You can always try it on one...cost you about $3.oo to test it. Suzanne James Garner wrote: > > My wife got an order for stained glass angle ornaments that we are doing this year. The orderer really wants gold soderlines. I saw in the foil debate a mentioning of gold paint pens. If I used those how shiny gold are they and how durable are they. Or, is there a better way. Keep in mind that these are not the magnificent works of art we normal do (my Mom told me they are so they must be). They are two pieces of glass cut wings body foiled and sodered one on top of the other with flat backed faceted jewels. Simple little better tan the plastic crap at Valu-Mart. > > James > James Garner > ___________________________________________________ > GO.com Mail > Get Your Free, Private E-mail at http://mail.go.com > > ---- > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com > To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Sep 30 12:09:16 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sat, 30 Sep 2000 11:39:06 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #479 built 2000-Sep-29) X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles From: "Christie A. Wood" To: Bungi Content-Type: text/plain; Subject: Gold (in them thar hills) Date: Sat, 30 Sep 2000 12:06:21 -0400 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> Precedence: bulk Message text written by James Garner >My wife got an order for stained glass angle ornaments that we are doing= this year. The orderer really wants gold soderlines. I saw in the foil debate a mentioning of gold paint pens. If I used those how shiny gold a= re they and how durable are they. Or, is there a better way. Keep in mind that these are not the magnificent works of art we normal do (my Mom told= me they are so they must be). They are two pieces of glass cut wings bod= y foiled and sodered one on top of the other with flat backed faceted jewel= s. Simple little better tan the plastic crap at Valu-Mart. James James Garner< You'll spend way too much time painting the solder lines than it is worth= it for that level of ornament. If the orderer REALLY wants gold solder lines, you're going to have to ha= ve the angels electroplated - maybe not with gold, but with shiny brass. And this is going to cost you (and your= orderer) MONEY. So, but real up-front with your orderer and tell him/her that getting gold/brass is going to co= st them $xxxx.xxx amount more above and beyond the price you quoted them. And don't skimp just to get the order.= = If they REALLY want gold/brass, they will have to PAY for it. Most areas have places that do electroplating. Look them up in the Yello= w Pages under Plating. Get them to give you a quote. Christie A. Wood North Wales, PA USA ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Sep 30 12:39:22 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sat, 30 Sep 2000 12:26:52 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #479 built 2000-Sep-29) X-Path: mspring.net!wfp51387 From: April Sullivan To: glass@bungi.com Subject: WholesaleConsciously Invitation Date: Sat, 30 Sep 2000 15:13:39 -0400 (EDT) Message-ID: <200009301913.PAA0000006158@mspring.net> Precedence: bulk Hello, Please accept our invitation to join WholesaleConsciously.com This site is for Wholesalers and Retailers who are interested in developing new accounts with Retailers in the Conscious Living MarketPlace. This is a password-protected site for Retailers and Wholesalers only. WHOLESALERS * Increase your online and offline presence. * Cost-effectively develop new wholesale accounts. * Test-market new products. * Advertise specials and closeouts. * Reduce trade show expenses. RETAILERS * Conveniently and easily view new products. * Save time and money by comparison shopping. * Gain immediate access the newest products. * Reduce trade show expenses. * Free to join. For more information go to: http://www.wholesaleconsciously.com http://www.wholesaleconsciously.com WholesaleConsciously Represents A New Way For Conscious Wholesalers and Retailers To Meet. ********************************************* In Addition... Our sister site ShopConsciously.com is looking to establish relationships with conscious wholesalers and retailers. There are several options to explore: Drop Shipping - You fulfill the sales created by our site. We handle customer service. Direct Wholesale - We buy direct from you for resale on our site. Direct Retail - You sell retail on our site and receive 70-80% of the sales price. We conduct the sale. You ship. You can view our site at: http://www.shopconsciously.com If any of these options appeal to you, please contact me. Thank you, April Sullivan Account Coordinator mailto:april@shopconsciously.com ********************************************* This email has been sent because of your connection to Conscious Living. If you so not wish to receive email from us, please send an email with the word Remove in the subject line. Please include all of your email addresses in the body of the email. We will honor your request. ********************************************* ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass From owner-glass Sat Sep 30 16:10:00 2000 Return-Path: Received: by daver.bungi.com via smail with stdio id for rglass-42; Sat, 30 Sep 2000 15:47:33 -0700 (PDT) (Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #479 built 2000-Sep-29) X-Path: ix.netcom.com!gunnx4 From: Suzanne Gunn To: "Christie A. Wood" , glass@bungi.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=x-user-defined Subject: Re: Gold (in them thar hills) Date: Sat, 30 Sep 2000 17:11:19 -0500 Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0> References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>> Precedence: bulk I apologise...I was thinking joints, not solderlines!!! Huge difference. :o) Joanne Dahlin does some that she has plated in 24 carat I believe. Joanne, are you out there? Suzanne ---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com To send to the list, please mail to: glass@bungi.com Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass