From owner-glass Tue Aug  1 07:41:48 2000
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From: "FRANK STEELE" <blusdog@worldnet.att.net>
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Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 09:24:55 -0600
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Hi my name is Tami Steele, and I am a new glass artist, interested in =
putting a web site out there. Would like to know of a few free sites for =
glass or art?  Also web rings?  And any other good ideas of information =
you might have. If anyone could let me know I would  much appreciate it.

Thanks again,
Tami

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2314.1000" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#c0c0c0>
<DIV>Hi my name is Tami Steele, and I am a new glass artist, interested =
in=20
putting a web site out there.&nbsp;Would like to know of a few free =
sites for=20
glass or art?&nbsp; Also web rings?&nbsp; And any other good ideas of=20
information you might have. If anyone could let me know I would  much =
appreciate=20
it.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Thanks again,</DIV>
<DIV>Tami</DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-glass Tue Aug  1 14:24:05 2000
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From: "lily-b" <lily-b@tinyworld.co.uk>
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Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 22:11:55 +0100
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Hi

in repsonse to Tami Steele's request for glass links, check out the =
following:

http://www.glass.co.nz/links.htm

lilyb

For contemporary designs in glass, from tiles=20
and coasters to garden water features, visit lilyb designs.=20

Commissions very welcome!

--->  http://www.lilyb.com  <---=20
    =20

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2919.6307" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Hi</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>in repsonse to Tami Steele's request =
for glass=20
links, check out the following:</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"http://www.glass.co.nz/links.htm">http://www.glass.co.nz/links.ht=
m</A></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>lilyb</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>For contemporary designs in glass, from =
tiles=20
<BR>and coasters to garden water features, visit lilyb designs. =
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Commissions very welcome!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>---&gt;&nbsp; <A=20
href=3D"http://www.lilyb.com">http://www.lilyb.com</A>&nbsp; &lt;---=20
<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; </FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-glass Wed Aug  2 15:54:24 2000
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From: "Peggy W. Johnsen" <edupjohn@slonet.org>
To: James Garner <officerjqg@go.com>
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Subject: Re: Sandblasting
Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 15:36:28 -0700 (PDT)
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James:  There is no reason for you not to continue sandblasting...IF you
first protect yourself (lungs) with the appropriate respirator with
filters to keep out the minute particles that breakdown from the blasting.
Many people build their own sandblast cabinets...and they come in all
sizes.  When I blast using the cabinet I still wear protective gear.  If I
were blasting outside the cabinet I would even wear a hood AND a
respirator.  Sandblasting does offer another dimension for working in
stained glass.  I recently went to a "fine arts" gallery and found
numerous items that had been sandblasted and painted using air brush
technique.  Sounds like that would be perfect for what you have been
doing.  Peggy

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From owner-glass Thu Aug  3 08:32:01 2000
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From: "studio@stainedglass.co.uk" <studio@stainedglass.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: UK classes in Lampworking?
Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2000 15:44:44 +0100
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I spotted details on rec.crafts.glass about proposed weeks (8 x 2-hours) of
classes in Lampworking (Beads, Swans, Flowers, Chess sets etc) to be held at
Sundon Park, Luton, Beds.
Unfortunately this is no good for us as we only have Sundays off in which to
take part in any new ventures, so I asked if they had thought of perhaps
doing a couple or more full-day courses on a Sunday.
Bill Fludgate (the contact there) has said that if there is the demand he
could probably organise something of the sort. If anyone is interested in
learning flameworking please contact Bill - email to <w.fludgate@virgin.net>
- and let him know whether you could make their planned week courses or
would be more keen on Sunday courses.

Regards
EliZabeth in Bournemouth
http://www.stainedglass.co.uk

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From owner-glass Thu Aug  3 13:20:05 2000
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: "studio@stainedglass.co.uk" <studio@stainedglass.co.uk>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: UK classes in Lampworking?
Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2000 20:59:54 +0100
Message-ID: <200008031918.e73JIYa05533@mercury.nildram.co.uk>
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Dear EliZabeth, Dear Bunginians,

Thank you for the Reminder.
Christie Wood posted this course as an IGGA News Item in March.
I picked it up and saved it.
It is of great interest to me ..... in long terms .... also for MY 
students.
I have been in touch with Bill Fludgate.... the course IS running.... 
starting 4th September.
They told me that they had had ONE reply from USA 
(WWWWHHHOOO????) Come on!! Confess!! Do you think you 
would escape the attention of Elisabeth/ Toby OR MERIC!!!??

The Glass Blowing Course is an attempt to get something up and 
running on a continuous basis, developing basic and further skills 
about glass blowing in UK. BioChem is known for its commitment 
to training and community participation. My dear friend and part 
commercial partner Jenny (who some of you have met) was Head 
of a Department at Luton University. When Christie posted the 
Course last March, Jenny cottoned on and said - "yep" - I know 
these guys - they're serious!
EliZabeth!!!
I'm ON this course in September. I intend to evaluate it for my 
students, and  for other people interested.... and if ANYONE 
ACROSS THE POND  joins,  you will have hospitality, food, fun 
and MERIC to lick you to bits. IGGA will have a full article about 
the course.

BioChem DO infer that this is the first of possible more courses.
Count me IN!

Mmmmmm, exciting. I enquired, am joining.... will keep you posted.

Elisabeth 'n Toby in UK

EliZabeth Law wrote:

I spotted details on rec.crafts.glass about proposed weeks (8 x 2-hours) of
classes in Lampworking (Beads, Swans, Flowers, Chess sets etc) to be held at
Sundon Park, Luton, Beds.
Unfortunately this is no good for us as we only have Sundays off in which to
take part in any new ventures, so I asked if they had thought of perhaps
doing a couple or more full-day courses on a Sunday.
Bill Fludgate (the contact there) has said that if there is the demand he
could probably organise something of the sort. If anyone is interested in
learning flameworking please contact Bill - email to <w.fludgate@virgin.net>
- and let him know whether you could make their planned week courses or
would be more keen on Sunday courses.


----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
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From owner-glass Fri Aug  4 01:04:21 2000
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From: officerjqg@policeone.com
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Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: Oxidation
Date: 4 Aug 2000 00:55:44 -0700
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I just picked up several pieces from a shop that was selling pieces for me to show at a local event.  As I was going threw the pieces I have noticed that some of the pieces are oxidizing or dulling.  I have been taking every step nessessary to ensure that it does not happen and can not figure out what it is. these are the normal steps.
-cut glass
-foil glass 
-usually sodder right after foiling.  Sometimes I wait a day
-Right after sodering wash piece with dish soap with a little backing soda mixed in.
-Usually let dry overnight.
-scrub lines with 0000 wool
-Patina it
-wash patina with cold water
-usually dry overnight
-wax with wax bought for stained glass but am switching to spray as soonas it is used up
-After wax dries, scrub with towels and several types od scub brushes for about 20 minutes.
-hang and enjoy

My wife varies her proces alittle from mine abd her pieces do to.  Some pieces are a young as two months old.  Any sugestions?????


P.S.  I went with the English Muffle Sage green and one of the purples.  They match perfect.  Now I need to come up with the design.


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From owner-glass Fri Aug  4 03:03:43 2000
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From: officerjqg@policeone.com
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Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: Oxidation
Date: 4 Aug 2000 00:59:47 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

I was told that my usual online e-mail program was displaying the lines to long.  Hopefully this one is better.  If not let me know, this one has the option of sending as HTML.

I just picked up several pieces from a shop that was selling pieces for me to show at a local event.  As I was going threw the pieces I have noticed that some of the pieces are oxidizing or dulling.  I have been taking every step necessary to ensure that it does not happen and can not figure out what it is. these are the normal steps.
-cut glass
-foil glass 
-usually sodder right after foiling.  Sometimes I wait a day
-Right after sodering wash piece with dish soap with a little backing soda mixed in.
-Usually let dry overnight.
-scrub lines with 0000 wool
-Patina it
-wash patina with cold water
-usually dry overnight
-wax with wax bought for stained glass but am switching to spray as soon as it is used up
-After wax dries, scrub with towels and several types of scub brushes for about 20 minutes.
-hang and enjoy

My wife varies her process a little from mine and her pieces do to.  Some pieces are a young as two months old.  Any suggestions?????


P.S.  I went with the English Muffle Sage green and one of the purples.  They match perfect.  Now I need to come up with the design.


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From owner-glass Fri Aug  4 04:10:22 2000
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X-Path: netzero.net!kseeglass
From: "KSee" <kseeglass@netzero.net>
To: <officerjqg@policeone.com>,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE: Oxidation
Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2000 06:40:02 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

I have inserted my response below. I too have my pieces at a gallery
(sometimes too long!) and they will oxides some but I like that look and if
it is kept clean it comes right back to its original look. I also give them
instructions & a can of Sprayway on how to clean. In addition I have a card
that is included which gives the buyer the same instructions.
KSee

-Right after sodering wash piece with dish soap with a little backing soda
mixed in.
I have always used CJ's Flux & Patina Remover. I save & use old
toothbrushes. A dime size dollop goes a long way. I wet my piece first. I
never soak or immerse any piece with foil/solder on it.
-Usually let dry overnight.
I dry immediately. I use paper towels
-scrub lines with 0000 wool
I only do this if I haven't patina right away and if I don't like the way
the patina looks. I use Novacan Copper most of the time. I have used Jax
too.
-Patina it
-wash patina with cold water
I do the same as above
-usually dry overnight
same as above
-wax with wax bought for stained glass but am switching to spray as soonas
it is used up
I use Kemp-o-Pro wax & Simichrome Polish. I use the polish on the solder
only & put it on with a paper towel, a little goes quite a long way. I will
put the Kemp-O-Pro on the towel & wipe it one the whole piece. It makes a
haze so it is easy to see. I then use an old terry cloth towel or an old
cotton hand towel to polish. I use a tooth brush too to make sure to polish
out around the solder.

-After wax dries, scrub with towels and several types od scub brushes for
about 20 minutes.
Never timed myself.

KSee

See Glass
www.members.xoom.com/kseeglass
National Capital Art Glass Guild
www.ncagg.org




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From owner-glass Fri Aug  4 05:57:40 2000
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From: Fsagg@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: Oxidation
Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2000 08:27:16 EDT
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

I use a small buffer attachment on my dremel to buff wax from areas that are 
hard corners, tight curves, around gems, etc. - Gives a most excellent 
professional finish on my patina. In the beginning I had problems with 
oxidation. I then paid more attention to cleaning  - I scrub gently but 
consistently and rinse extremely well, dry immediately and thoroughly, patina 
immediately after pieces are 100% dry, let the patina dry on and rub it in 
more (depending on shade desired), wax generously, let dry thoroughly again, 
and buff. and I have had no problems since.
Laura
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From owner-glass Fri Aug  4 06:10:02 2000
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X-Path: gdi.net!shodge
From: Skip Hodge <shodge@gdi.net>
To: Glass@Bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Florida Get-together
Date: Fri, 04 Aug 2000 08:35:17 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Hey everyone,

About a month ago I said I would arrange a get-together for those
Bungians who either live in the central Florida area or who will be
visisting or those rare few who want to make a special trip.

OK here it is.

Place:   Holiday Inn, Ocoee Florida, 
         Corner of Hwy 50 and McGuire

When:    Saturday August 26th 2000
         Say 5:00ish 
         Meet in the lounge. 

Hope to see as many of there.

Skip
Southern Exposure Stained Glass Supply, Inc.
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From owner-glass Fri Aug  4 06:15:22 2000
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X-Path: gdi.net!shodge
From: Skip Hodge <shodge@gdi.net>
To: officerjqg@policeone.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Oxidation
Date: Fri, 04 Aug 2000 08:27:22 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Well here we go.
I have inserted my method where different

-cut glass
-foil glass 
-usually sodder right after foiling.  Sometimes I wait a day
-Right after sodering wash piece with dish soap with a little backing
soda mixed in.

I use Neutra 5000 by Classique I just splash a little  in about an inch
or two of water in a small bucket and apply it with a scrub brush rinse
and repeat.

-Usually let dry overnight.

Patina Imediately I don't even dry offthe piece unless I am going to use
copper patina. If I use copper patina I will dry the piece and wax it
useing Kem-O-Pro then apply the copper patina (it really make a huge
difference when waxed first) then a light waxing again.

-scrub lines with 0000 wool

I don't use steel wool on any piece unless its to remove some patina to
obtain that old world pewter look or to try to match someone elses
solder in a repair. Steel wool has an oil film on it that will affect
the way your patina goes on and more importantly the way it looks in
about a month.

-Patina it
-wash patina with cold water

I use the Classique Neutra 5000 here once again.

-usually dry overnight

Most people do try to apply thier wax too soon. it is important to make
sure that the piece is completely dry befor waxing. there has been a lot
of discussion about different waxes her on the Bungi list. I can only
say use wht you like.

-wax with wax bought for stained glass but am switching to spray as
soonas it is used up
-After wax dries, scrub with towels and several types od scub brushes
for about 20 minutes.

After buffing up with a clean dry soft towel I use a natural bristle
brush to make sure I get all the excess wax out of those tiny little
craks and crevases. Make sure its a natural bristel brush, the kind with
the real stiff brown bristels that look like dryed up pine needles. A
lott of the time what people think is oxidation is really excess wax
going yucky

-hang and enjoy

Good luck
Skip
Southern Exposure Stained Glass Supply, Inc.
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From owner-glass Fri Aug  4 07:48:54 2000
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From: elsie turqman <elsiemt@bellatlantic.net>
To: glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Yoghiogheny Glass
Date: Fri, 04 Aug 2000 10:06:43 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

I am trying to locate a website for Youghiogney Glass.  I am planning a
trip to the Pa/WVA area and would like to visit the factory.  Any help
would be appreciated.

Thanks           Elsie
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From owner-glass Fri Aug  4 08:55:50 2000
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From: "Nadine BethSchneider" <nadinesfolly@POBox.com>
To: "elsie turqman" <elsiemt@bellatlantic.net>,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE: Yoghiogheny Glass
Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2000 11:08:50 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
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www.youghioghenyglass.com

Been there, done that, you will enjoy it!

Nadine

Nadine Beth Schneider
Nadine's Folly, Ltd
www.nadinesfolly.com


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From: "Gregg Wood" <gwood@one.net>
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Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Yoghiogheny Glass
Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2000 11:16:18 -0400
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http://www.stainedglassbiz.com/youghiogheny/index.html

----- Original Message ----- 
From: elsie turqman <elsiemt@bellatlantic.net>
To: glass <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Friday, August 04, 2000 11:13 AM
Subject: Yoghiogheny Glass


> I am trying to locate a website for Youghiogney Glass.  I am planning a
> trip to the Pa/WVA area and would like to visit the factory.  Any help
> would be appreciated.
> 
> Thanks           Elsie
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> 
> 

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X-Path: POBox.com!nadinesfolly
From: "Nadine BethSchneider" <nadinesfolly@POBox.com>
To: "elsie turqman" <elsiemt@bellatlantic.net>,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE: Yoghiogheny Glass
Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2000 12:26:53 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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www.youghioghenyglass.com

been there, done that, you'll enjoy!
But they are horrible about answering
Email so call them instead!

Nadine

Nadine Beth Schneider
Nadine's Folly, Ltd
www.nadinesfolly.com


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From owner-glass Fri Aug  4 13:57:22 2000
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For the person looking to contact Studio One
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From owner-glass Sat Aug  5 04:20:01 2000
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X-Path: ns.sympatico.ca!heinze.g
From: heinze.g@ns.sympatico.ca (Gail HeinzeMiline)
To: officerjqg@policeone.com, Glass List <glass@bungi.com.>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Oxidation
Date: Sat, 05 Aug 2000 08:31:30 -0300
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Organization: Glass with Class
Precedence: bulk

I live in a very humid climate. My pieces will oxidize within hours if they are not immediately cleaned, dried, patined, and waxed. I have found it is very important to wax as soon as possible.

Gail in Nova Scotia

officerjqg@policeone.com wrote:

> I just picked up several pieces from a shop that was selling pieces for me to show at a local event.  As I was going threw the pieces I have noticed that some of the pieces are oxidizing or dulling.  I have been taking every step nessessary to ensure that it does not happen and can not figure out what it is. these are the normal steps.
> -cut glass
> -foil glass
> -usually sodder right after foiling.  Sometimes I wait a day
> -Right after sodering wash piece with dish soap with a little backing soda mixed in.
> -Usually let dry overnight.
> -scrub lines with 0000 wool
> -Patina it
> -wash patina with cold water
> -usually dry overnight
> -wax with wax bought for stained glass but am switching to spray as soonas it is used up
> -After wax dries, scrub with towels and several types od scub brushes for about 20 minutes.
> -hang and enjoy
>
> My wife varies her proces alittle from mine abd her pieces do to.  Some pieces are a young as two months old.  Any sugestions?????
>
> P.S.  I went with the English Muffle Sage green and one of the purples.  They match perfect.  Now I need to come up with the design.
>
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X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Yoghiogheny Glass
Date: Sat, 5 Aug 2000 11:38:02 -0400
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Message text written by elsie turqman
>I am trying to locate a website for Youghiogney Glass.  I am planning a
trip to the Pa/WVA area and would like to visit the factory.  Any help
would be appreciated.<

http://www.Youghiogheny.com

Christie A. Wood - IGGA Exec. Director
North Wales, PA USA
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From owner-glass Sat Aug  5 09:54:26 2000
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X-Path: ix.netcom.com!gunnx4
From: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@ix.netcom.com>
To: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Yoghiogheny Glass
Date: Sat, 05 Aug 2000 11:40:25 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Make that www.Youghioghenyglass.com

Suzanne

"Christie A. Wood" wrote:
> 
> Message text written by elsie turqman
> >I am trying to locate a website for Youghiogney Glass.  I am planning a
> trip to the Pa/WVA area and would like to visit the factory.  Any help
> would be appreciated.<
> 
> http://www.Youghiogheny.com
> 
> Christie A. Wood - IGGA Exec. Director
> North Wales, PA USA
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From owner-glass Sat Aug  5 18:01:08 2000
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From: elsie turqman <elsiemt@bellatlantic.net>
To: glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Youghiogheny
Date: Sat, 05 Aug 2000 20:59:04 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Thanks to everyone for the information on the website.  Hope to visit
there week after next.

Elsie
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From owner-glass Mon Aug  7 07:31:23 2000
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From: "E.Hammond" <liz@horizon-research.com>
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Subject: Sal Ammoniac
Date: Mon, 07 Aug 2000 09:50:30 -0400
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Precedence: bulk

Hey,

Two days ago I used a chunk of Sal Ammoniac (sp?) to re-tin the tip of my soldering iron. It began emitting a great deal of smoke. I aired out the room, but the ammonia smell still lingers. Should it produce a lot of smoke and are the fumes dangerous?

Thanks,
Lizzy

Horizon Research, Inc.			ph:  919-489-1725
111 Cloister Court, Suite 220		fx:  919-493-7589
Chapel Hill, NC  27514			web: <http://www.horizon-research.com>

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From owner-glass Mon Aug  7 09:01:11 2000
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From: Family Account <shad@mail2.nai.net>
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Subject: NG - Fiction - Emeraldine at the Hogwhittle Celebration
Date: Mon, 07 Aug 2000 10:56:21 -0400
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Precedence: bulk

I am sure many of you have heard of the great Myrtlette Hogwhittle.  I
will refresh your memory from the June 1999 archives:
=93the cathedral in Southwest Flats was having new windows
installed.  They were designed by Myrtlette Hogwhittle and are generally

know as the "Angles of the Sage".  Some critics claim that these windows

are a great example of post-modernist apres-cubist expressionism.
Others complain that they can't tell the porcupines from the angels.=94
This was the master=92s final design, as she died shortly thereafter of
advanced age and extreme near-sightedness.  Indeed, she never saw her
final work in all its glory.

The Hogwhittles settled in the town of Dust (about 100 miles from
Southwest Flats) in the late 1880s and soon became the preeminent
artistic family in the region.  In fact, many of the finest homes built
around the turn of the century were known at =93Hogwhittle Homes=94, as a=
ll
the decoration in the home, from stenciled walls to embroidered
curtains, were designed and overseen by the family.  In fact, in some of
the stencilling (particularly in the Duncan Baron and the Hosannah
Martin homes) are the motifs that Myrtlette used to such effect in the
=93Angels of the Sage=94 and =93Dusty Pokes=94 series of windows.  The mo=
tifs
have been transformed by her great glass sensibilities, but the
influence is obvious.

Given the extraordinary influence the Hogwhittles have had on the
nation=92s artistic community, the Dust/Southwest Flats region has hosted
(for several years) THE Hogwhittle Celebration.  This past years=92
celebration was an event to remember.

Pierre and I attended as mere tourists, although it was rather fun to
see my picture in an exhibit at the cathedral.  (Taken from the
newspaper archives).  Since the geographic area to be covered was so
large, it took a great deal of planning to get around, and riders on the
shuttle buses were entertained by performers costumed as members of the
Hogwhittle family.

We visited the Baron and Martin houses.  The Baron home had been
restored to period and was magnificent.  Imagine the great circular
sagebrush window in the bright sunlight.  The stuffed rabbit series of
lamps with their molded shades. The transoms over every door that
included small fossilized dinosaur teeth in with the leaded glass.  An
inspiration, to be sure.

The Flats museum had an entire section devoted to Myrtlette=92s
contributions.  I know many of you have copied her inspirational =93Crows=
=94
panel, but so few have seen the original in person, as it has been in a
private collection for years.  It was a thrill to examine the panel, so
see the masterful use of black.  No wonder it=92s so hard to reproduce.  =
I
will admit to having tried it myself as a teenager.

The entertainment was great fun.  Bertie Hogwhittle was a
choreographer.  Many of his dances were reproduced by the Stompers
Square Dance Club.  The songs of Pyrette Hogwhittle Bottlebottom were
performed by the Bottlebottom Singers.  And the fireworks=85.Imagine the
designs of Myrtlette done in fire, painted across the sky, ephemeral and
smoky.

I might suggest planning your vacation in advance for next year, as the
hotels fill fast.

(Meanwhile, Dorothy and John and family had to make do with Mark Twain
Days in Connecticut, looking around the =93Tiffany House=94 that the Clem=
ens
family inhabited, viewing a small Tiffany exhibit, listening to blues
performers and seeing fireworks designed by the man who did the Paris
Millennial fireworks.)


As always, Emeraldine

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X-Path: gdi.net!shodge
From: Skip Hodge <shodge@gdi.net>
To: "E.Hammond" <liz@horizon-research.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Sal Ammoniac
Date: Mon, 07 Aug 2000 12:51:06 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Precedence: bulk

E.Hammond wrote:
> 
> Hey,
> 
> Two days ago I used a chunk of Sal Ammoniac (sp?) to re-tin the tip of my soldering iron. It began emitting a great deal of smoke. I aired out the room, but the ammonia smell still lingers. Should it produce a lot of smoke and are the fumes dangerous?
> 
> Thanks,
> Lizzy
> 
> Horizon Research, Inc.                  ph:  919-489-1725
> 111 Cloister Court, Suite 220           fx:  919-493-7589
> Chapel Hill, NC  27514                  web: <http://www.horizon-research.com>
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
Yes Lizzy,

Lots of smoke ---- Don't breath it in.
I've been retinning tip for some time with no ill effects ( I Think)

Skip
Southern Exposure Stained Glass Supply, Inc.
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From owner-glass Mon Aug  7 10:39:56 2000
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: "E.Hammond" <liz@horizon-research.com>
Subject: Re: Sal Ammoniac
Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2000 18:26:53 +0100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<4.2.2.20000807094614.00a88c30@192.168.1.4>>
Precedence: bulk

Not dangerous, just noxious.
good ventilation helps prevent the build up of the smell.
Steve

In message <4.2.2.20000807094614.00a88c30@192.168.1.4>, E.Hammond
<liz@horizon-research.com> writes
>Hey,
>
>Two days ago I used a chunk of Sal Ammoniac (sp?) to re-tin the tip of my 
>soldering iron. It began emitting a great deal of smoke. I aired out the room, 
>but the ammonia smell still lingers. Should it produce a lot of smoke and are 
>the fumes dangerous?
>
>Thanks,
>Lizzy
>
>Horizon Research, Inc.                 ph:  919-489-1725
>111 Cloister Court, Suite 220          fx:  919-493-7589
>Chapel Hill, NC  27514                 web: <http://www.horizon-research.com>
>
>----
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-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Mon Aug  7 11:42:24 2000
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X-Path: island.net!seaspray
From: "synergy glass" <seaspray@island.net>
To: "E.Hammond" <liz@horizon-research.com>, <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Sal Ammoniac
Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2000 10:33:29 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

If you're worried about the fumes, do your re-tinning in a well ventilated
area or outside.  What kind of fan/exhaust system do you have for your
soldering station?  It should be able to handle the sal ammoniac fumes
okay...if not, you might want to get a better fan or exhaust setup.

Carol Swann
Synergy Glass & Creative
www.igga.org/synergy
seaspray@island.net

-----Original Message-----
From: E.Hammond <liz@horizon-research.com>
To: glass@bungi.com <glass@bungi.com>
Date: Monday, August 07, 2000 7:39 AM
Subject: Sal Ammoniac


>Hey,
>
>Two days ago I used a chunk of Sal Ammoniac (sp?) to re-tin the tip of my
soldering iron. It began emitting a great deal of smoke. I aired out the
room, but the ammonia smell still lingers. Should it produce a lot of smoke
and are the fumes dangerous?
>
>Thanks,
>Lizzy
>
>Horizon Research, Inc. ph:  919-489-1725
>111 Cloister Court, Suite 220 fx:  919-493-7589
>Chapel Hill, NC  27514 web: <http://www.horizon-research.com>
>
>----
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>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>

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From: "E. Hammond" <lizrob@mindspring.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: re: Sal Ammoniac
Date: Mon, 07 Aug 2000 16:15:28 -0400
Message-ID: <4.2.2.20000807160913.00a80360@192.168.1.4>
Precedence: bulk

Thanks, everyone for the answer to my question.

In response, I'll say that my ventilation system consists of a window and a fan which blows air across my workspace, sending fumes outside. It doesn't really keep the fumes away from me, just keeps them from building up. I'm working with lead-free solder so I think this setup is sufficient. If it's not, holler, please.

I have not put flux on the sal ammoniac cake, but it sounds like a good idea. I'll try it.

Lizzy

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From: "sangita" <sangbang@eth.net>
To: "aavkar" <aavkar@satyam.net.in>,
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~Birthdays~

This is kind of cool!  Out of all of the billions of people that live   =
in=20
the world, there has got to be somebody born on each date of the year.  =
To=20
try to accomplish this task of seeing if we can fill the      calendar =
up=20
with a birthday on every day of the year, add your first name and your =
city=20
and state next to your birth date to the list below.
Then send this list to all of your friends, plus that person who sent
it to you!  Let's see if we can do it!!!!  (Remember, copying and =
pasting=20
this to a NEW Email will keep it clean and make it easier to read than =
just=20
forwarding it.)

~Thanks and Happy Birthday!


         JANUARY

         Jan. 1~ Barb, Atlanta, GA
         Jan. 2~*Christi*~ DE
         Jan. 3~ Rachel M. Austin, TX
         Jan. 4~
         Jan. 5~
         Jan. 6~
         Jan. 7~
         Jan. 8~
         Jan. 9~
         Jan. 10~
         Jan. 11~
         Jan. 12~
         Jan. 13~
         Jan. 14~
         Jan. 15~
         Jan. 16~
         Jan. 17~
         Jan. 18~ Melissa~PA
         Jan. 19~
         Jan. 20~
         Jan. 21~
         Jan. 22~Janice~St.Louis Mo.
         Jan. 23~
         Jan. 24~
         Jan. 25~ Kristen M. Austin Tx
         Jan. 26~
         Jan. 27~
         Jan. 28~
         Jan. 29~
         Jan. 30~
         Jan. 31~

       FEBRUARY

         Feb. 1~
         Feb. 2~
         Feb. 3~
         Feb. 4~
         Feb. 5~ *Jamie* from Delaware
         Feb. 6~
         Feb. 7~
         Feb. 8~
         Feb. 9~ Megan Stanis~>Fox Lake, IL
         Feb. 10~*Stephanie*~Delaware
         Feb. 11~
         Feb. 12~
         Feb. 13~
         Feb. 14~  Jamie Clifton, TN    Ed. Hannibal,Mo
         Feb. 15~  LiZaRd Wilmington DE
         Feb. 16~
         Feb. 17~
         Feb. 18~
         Feb. 19~ Maria Saugerties NY
         Feb. 20~
         Feb. 21~
         Feb. 22~
         Feb. 23~
         Feb. 24~
         Feb. 25~ Lindsay- Rock Springs,Wy
         Feb. 26~
         Feb. 27~
         Feb. 28~
         Feb. 29~

        MARCH

         Mar. 1~
         Mar. 2~
         Mar. 3~
         Mar. 4~Lorrie H. Sac,CA
         Mar. 5~
         Mar. 6~'89 =A1Audrey! Phily, Pa
         Mar. 7~
         Mar. 8~
         Mar. 9~
         Mar. 10~
         Mar. 11~ Kyle Knight, IL, Nikhil Shah, Salem, India
         Mar. 12~
         Mar. 13~
         Mar. 14~~*~Sarah~*~ (v)~town, De
         Mar. 15~
         Mar. 16~
         Mar. 17~
         Mar. 18~
         Mar. 19~
         Mar. 20~
         Mar. 21~
         Mar. 22~ R & S SNY
         Mar. 23~
         Mar. 24~
         Mar. 25~
         Mar. 26~
         Mar. 27~
         Mar. 28~
         Mar. 29~
         Mar. 30~
         Mar. 31~

       APRIL

        Apr. 1~
        Apr. 2~
        Apr. 3~Jim A. sac CA
        Apr. 4~ Amber Mobley IL
        Apr. 5~
        Apr. 6~
        Apr. 7~
        Apr. 8~
        Apr. 9~
        Apr. 10~
        Apr. 11~Raven V. Sac, CA
        Apr. 12~
        Apr. 13~Stephanie S.~>1985~>Fox Lake, IL
        Apr. 14~Bryce Holman   IL
        Apr. 15~
        Apr. 16~Megan Austin, Tx
        Apr. 17~
        Apr. 18~Will - Marion, IL (1948)
        Apr. 19~
        Apr. 20~ Y *~*~*~'85 - CHANTELL G., IL.~*~*~* Y
        Apr. 21~ Jessica Blythe - Mt.Carmel, Il.
        Apr. 22~
        Apr. 23~
        Apr. 24~
        Apr. 25~Caytee O'Neill, IL
        Apr. 26~ Shirley - Corpus Christi, Tx.
        Apr. 27~
        Apr. 28~
        Apr. 29~
        Apr. 30~

       MAY

        May 1~
        May 2~
        May 3~
        May 4~
        May 5~
        May 6~
        May 7~
        May 8~
        May 9~
        May 10~
        May 11~
        May 12~
        May 13~
        May 14~
        May 15~
        May 16~ Lindsay- PA
        May 17~
        May 18~
        May 19~
        May 20~*~*Jennifer*~*TX*~*
        May 21~
        May 22~
        May 23~
        May 24~
        May 25~
        May 26~
        May 27~
        May 28~
        May 29~
        May 30~
        May 31~

       JUNE

        Jun. 1~  *~*Ashley- IL*~*
        Jun. 2~
        Jun. 3~
        Jun. 4~
        Jun. 5~ ME (MITCHELL JOSEPH)  (LEAVENWORTH, KANSAS)
        Jun. 6~
        Jun. 7~
        Jun. 8~
        Jun. 9~
        Jun. 10~
        Jun. 11~
        Jun. 12~
        Jun. 13~ Shambrey Short,IL.
        Jun. 14~
        Jun. 15~
        Jun. 16~Danny G ***EAST TEXAS
        Jun. 17~
        Jun. 18~
        Jun. 19~
        Jun. 20~
        Jun. 21~
        Jun. 22~
        Jun. 23~
        Jun. 24~
        Jun. 25~
        Jun. 26~
        Jun. 27~Curty~>Wisconsin,  *Heather* Mt.Carmel IL
        Jun. 28~
        Jun. 29~
        Jun. 30~

       JULY

        Jul. 1~
        Jul. 2~
        Jul. 3~Jason~>Wisconsin
        Jul. 4~
        Jul. 5~
        Jul. 6~*Kristin* this is the best  day! he he he
        Jul. 7~
        Jul. 8~
        Jul. 9~
        Jul. 10~
        Jul. 11~
        Jul. 12~
        Jul. 13~Renee De La  Rosa(dallas,tx)
        Jul. 14~
        Jul. 15~Jessica
        Jul. 16~
        Jul. 17~
        Jul. 18~  <3 ~*~*Ashley's  Birthday*~*~ <3
        Jul. 19~
        Jul. 20~Christie Hooven -PA
        Jul. 21~
        Jul. 22~
        Jul. 23~
        Jul. 24~
        Jul. 25~
        Jul. 26~Katy S. ~Texas~ ; )
        Jul. 27~
        Jul. 28~
        Jul. 29~
        Jul. 30~
        Jul. 31~Karmen Johnston ~Illinois~

       AUGUST

        Aug. 1~
        Aug. 2~
        Aug. 3~
        Aug. 4~
        Aug. 5~
        Aug. 6~ Drew- PA  Donna NY
        Aug. 7~
        Aug. 8~
        Aug. 9~
        Aug. 10~
        Aug. 11~
        Aug. 12~
        Aug. 13~
        Aug. 14~ Nicki-2(Pam)
        Aug. 15~
        Aug. 16~ Steph Kautzer, Fox Lake,  IL
        Aug. 17~Bonnie Austin Tx.
        Aug. 18~
        Aug. 19~
        Aug. 20~
        Aug. 21~Pricilla Cruse, Lubbock,TX
        Aug. 22~
        Aug. 23~
        Aug. 24~
        Aug. 25~
        Aug. 26~
        Aug. 27~
        Aug. 28~
        Aug. 29~
        Aug. 30~
        Aug. 31~

       SEPTEMBER

        Sep. 1~
        Sep. 2~
        Sep. 3~
        Sep. 4~ Doug- PA
        Sep. 5~
        Sep. 6~
        Sep. 7~
        Sep. 8~
        Sep. 9~
        Sep. 10~
        Sep. 11~
        Sep. 12~
        Sep. 13~
        Sep. 14~
        Sep. 15~
        Sep. 16~Caryn Harness~ Mt. Carmel, IL
        Sep. 17~
        Sep. 18~
        Sep. 19~ Elisha Coston--IL
        Sep. 20~
        Sep. 21~
        Sep. 22~
        Sep. 23~Meagan Holman- Il
        Sep. 24~Nathan Gabbard, IL
        Sep. 25~
        Sep. 26~ Jana Doty--IL
        Sep. 27~
        Sep. 28~Sheena Idelson, PA
        Sep. 29~
        Sep. 30~.Kelley, Austin, TX  : )

       OCTOBER

        Oct. 1~
        Oct. 2~Jamie Sickman, SC
        Oct. 3~Allie S.*Round Rock, TX
        Oct. 4~Debbie Patton*Illinois
        Oct. 5~
        Oct. 6~
        Oct. 7~
        Oct. 8~
        Oct. 9~
        Oct. 10~
        Oct. 11~
        Oct. 12~ Emily Hagen ~ PA
        Oct. 13~ Sarah NY
        Oct. 14~
        Oct. 15~ Puni -- IL
        Oct. 16~
        Oct. 17~
        Oct. 18~
        Oct. 19~
        Oct. 20~
        Oct. 21~
        Oct. 22~
        Oct. 23~
        Oct. 24~
        Oct. 25~ Emily B. Moffitt~Malvern,  PA
        Oct. 26~
        Oct. 27~
        Oct. 28~
        Oct. 29~Jessica Hazlett-IL
        Oct. 30~
        Oct. 31~Karen-Elam, PA, Maria, PA

       NOVEMBER

        Nov. 1~ Sarah-Wilmington, DE
        Nov. 2~
        Nov. 3~
        Nov. 4~
        Nov. 5~
        Nov. 6~
        Nov. 7~ Molly Janney, IL!!!
        Nov. 8~
        Nov. 9~
        Nov. 10~
        Nov. 11~
        Nov. 12~
        Nov. 13~
        Nov. 14~
        Nov. 15~
        Nov. 16~
        Nov. 17~
        Nov. 18~
        Nov. 19~
        Nov. 20~
        Nov. 21~
        Nov. 22~
        Nov. 23~
        Nov. 24~
        Nov. 25~
        Nov. 26~
        Nov. 27~
        Nov. 28~
        Nov. 29~
        Nov. 30~

      DECEMBER

       Dec. 1~
       Dec. 2~
       Dec. 3~
       Dec. 4~
       Dec. 5~
       Dec. 6~*~*~* Tiffany from Illinois!!!! *~*~*
       Dec. 7~
       Dec. 8~
       Dec. 9~
       Dec. 10~
       Dec. 11~
       Dec. 12~
       Dec. 13~
       Dec. 14~
       Dec. 15~
       Dec. 16~
       Dec. 17~
       Dec. 18~
       Dec. 19~
       Dec. 20~
       Dec. 21~VeronicaRae     Tx
       Dec. 22~
       Dec. 23~
       Dec. 24~
       Dec. 25~
       Dec. 26~ Dennis Winter~~~Wilmington, Delaware (unfortunately)
       Dec. 27~Cindy-El Paso, Tx
       Dec. 28~
       Dec. 29~
       Dec. 30~brett- mt.carmel illinois
       Dec. 31~


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<DIV>~Birthdays~<BR><BR>This is kind of cool!&nbsp; Out of all of the =
billions=20
of people that live&nbsp;&nbsp; in <BR>the world, there has got to be =
somebody=20
born on each date of the year.&nbsp; To <BR>try to accomplish this task =
of=20
seeing if we can fill the&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; calendar up =
<BR>with a=20
birthday on every day of the year, add your first name and your city =
<BR>and=20
state next to your birth date to the list below.<BR>Then send this list =
to all=20
of your friends, plus that person who sent<BR>it to you!&nbsp; Let's see =
if we=20
can do it!!!!&nbsp; (Remember, copying and pasting <BR>this to a NEW =
Email will=20
keep it clean and make it easier to read than just <BR>forwarding=20
it.)<BR><BR>~Thanks and Happy=20
Birthday!<BR><BR><BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
JANUARY<BR><BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jan. 1~ =
Barb,=20
Atlanta, GA<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jan.=20
2~*Christi*~ DE<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jan. =
3~=20
Rachel M. Austin, TX<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
Jan.=20
4~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jan.=20
5~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jan.=20
6~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jan.=20
7~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jan.=20
8~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jan.=20
9~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jan.=20
10~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jan.=20
11~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jan.=20
12~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jan.=20
13~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jan.=20
14~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jan.=20
15~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jan.=20
16~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jan.=20
17~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jan. 18~=20
Melissa~PA<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jan.=20
19~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jan.=20
20~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jan.=20
21~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jan. =
22~Janice~St.Louis=20
Mo.<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jan.=20
23~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jan.=20
24~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jan. 25~ Kristen =
M.=20
Austin Tx<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jan.=20
26~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jan.=20
27~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jan.=20
28~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jan.=20
29~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jan.=20
30~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jan.=20
31~<BR><BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
FEBRUARY<BR><BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Feb.=20
1~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Feb.=20
2~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Feb.=20
3~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Feb.=20
4~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Feb. 5~ *Jamie* =
from=20
Delaware<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Feb.=20
6~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Feb.=20
7~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Feb.=20
8~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Feb. 9~ Megan=20
Stanis~&gt;Fox Lake, =
IL<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Feb.=20
10~*Stephanie*~Delaware<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbs=
p; Feb.=20
11~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Feb.=20
12~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Feb.=20
13~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Feb. 14~&nbsp; =
Jamie=20
Clifton, TN&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Ed.=20
Hannibal,Mo<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Feb. =
15~&nbsp;=20
LiZaRd Wilmington DE<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
Feb.=20
16~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Feb.=20
17~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Feb.=20
18~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Feb. 19~ Maria=20
Saugerties NY<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Feb.=20
20~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Feb.=20
21~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Feb.=20
22~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Feb.=20
23~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Feb.=20
24~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Feb. 25~ =
Lindsay- Rock=20
Springs,Wy<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Feb.=20
26~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Feb.=20
27~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Feb.=20
28~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Feb.=20
29~<BR><BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
MARCH<BR><BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Mar.=20
1~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Mar.=20
2~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Mar.=20
3~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Mar. 4~Lorrie H.=20
Sac,CA<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Mar.=20
5~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Mar. 6~'89 =
&iexcl;Audrey!=20
Phily, Pa<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Mar.=20
7~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Mar.=20
8~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Mar.=20
9~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Mar.=20
10~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Mar. 11~ Kyle =
Knight,=20
IL, Nikhil Shah, Salem,=20
India<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Mar.=20
12~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Mar.=20
13~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Mar. =
14~~*~Sarah~*~=20
(v)~town, De<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Mar.=20
15~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Mar.=20
16~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Mar.=20
17~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Mar.=20
18~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Mar.=20
19~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Mar.=20
20~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Mar.=20
21~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Mar. 22~ R &amp; =
S=20
SNY<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Mar.=20
23~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Mar.=20
24~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Mar.=20
25~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Mar.=20
26~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Mar.=20
27~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Mar.=20
28~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Mar.=20
29~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Mar.=20
30~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Mar.=20
31~<BR><BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
APRIL<BR><BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Apr.=20
1~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Apr.=20
2~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Apr. 3~Jim A. sac=20
CA<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Apr. 4~ Amber Mobley=20
IL<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Apr.=20
5~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Apr.=20
6~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Apr.=20
7~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Apr.=20
8~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Apr.=20
9~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Apr.=20
10~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Apr. 11~Raven V. Sac,=20
CA<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Apr.=20
12~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Apr. 13~Stephanie=20
S.~&gt;1985~&gt;Fox Lake, =
IL<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Apr.=20
14~Bryce Holman&nbsp;&nbsp; =
IL<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
Apr. 15~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Apr. 16~Megan =
Austin,=20
Tx<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Apr.=20
17~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Apr. 18~Will - Marion, =
IL=20
(1948)<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Apr.=20
19~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Apr. 20~ Y *~*~*~'85 - =

CHANTELL G., IL.~*~*~* Y<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
Apr. 21~=20
Jessica Blythe - Mt.Carmel, =
Il.<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
Apr. 22~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Apr.=20
23~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Apr.=20
24~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Apr. 25~Caytee =
O'Neill,=20
IL<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Apr. 26~ Shirley - =
Corpus=20
Christi, Tx.<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Apr.=20
27~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Apr.=20
28~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Apr.=20
29~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Apr.=20
30~<BR><BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
MAY<BR><BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; May=20
1~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; May=20
2~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; May=20
3~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; May=20
4~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; May=20
5~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; May=20
6~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; May=20
7~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; May=20
8~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; May=20
9~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; May=20
10~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; May=20
11~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; May=20
12~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; May=20
13~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; May=20
14~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; May=20
15~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; May 16~ Lindsay-=20
PA<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; May=20
17~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; May=20
18~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; May=20
19~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; May=20
20~*~*Jennifer*~*TX*~*<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; May =

21~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; May=20
22~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; May=20
23~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; May=20
24~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; May=20
25~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; May=20
26~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; May=20
27~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; May=20
28~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; May=20
29~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; May=20
30~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; May=20
31~<BR><BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
JUNE<BR><BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jun. 1~&nbsp; =
*~*Ashley-=20
IL*~*<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jun.=20
2~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jun.=20
3~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jun.=20
4~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jun. 5~ ME (MITCHELL=20
JOSEPH)&nbsp; (LEAVENWORTH,=20
KANSAS)<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jun.=20
6~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jun.=20
7~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jun.=20
8~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jun.=20
9~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jun.=20
10~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jun.=20
11~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jun.=20
12~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jun. 13~ Shambrey=20
Short,IL.<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jun.=20
14~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jun.=20
15~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jun. 16~Danny G =
***EAST=20
TEXAS<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jun.=20
17~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jun.=20
18~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jun.=20
19~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jun.=20
20~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jun.=20
21~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jun.=20
22~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jun.=20
23~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jun.=20
24~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jun.=20
25~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jun.=20
26~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jun.=20
27~Curty~&gt;Wisconsin,&nbsp; *Heather* Mt.Carmel=20
IL<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jun.=20
28~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jun.=20
29~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jun.=20
30~<BR><BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
JULY<BR><BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jul.=20
1~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jul.=20
2~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jul.=20
3~Jason~&gt;Wisconsin<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jul. =

4~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jul.=20
5~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jul. 6~*Kristin* this =
is the=20
best&nbsp; day! he he he<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
Jul.=20
7~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jul.=20
8~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jul.=20
9~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jul.=20
10~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jul.=20
11~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jul.=20
12~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jul. 13~Renee De =
La&nbsp;=20
Rosa(dallas,tx)<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jul.=20
14~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jul.=20
15~Jessica<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jul.=20
16~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jul.=20
17~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jul. 18~&nbsp; &lt;3=20
~*~*Ashley's&nbsp; Birthday*~*~=20
&lt;3<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jul.=20
19~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jul. 20~Christie =
Hooven=20
-PA<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jul.=20
21~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jul.=20
22~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jul.=20
23~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jul.=20
24~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jul.=20
25~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jul. 26~Katy S. =
~Texas~ ;=20
)<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jul.=20
27~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jul.=20
28~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jul.=20
29~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jul.=20
30~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Jul. 31~Karmen =
Johnston=20
~Illinois~<BR><BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
AUGUST<BR><BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Aug.=20
1~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Aug.=20
2~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Aug.=20
3~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Aug.=20
4~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Aug.=20
5~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Aug. 6~ Drew- PA&nbsp; =
Donna=20
NY<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Aug.=20
7~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Aug.=20
8~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Aug.=20
9~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Aug.=20
10~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Aug.=20
11~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Aug.=20
12~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Aug.=20
13~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Aug. 14~=20
Nicki-2(Pam)<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Aug.=20
15~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Aug. 16~ Steph =
Kautzer, Fox=20
Lake,&nbsp; IL<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Aug. =
17~Bonnie=20
Austin Tx.<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Aug.=20
18~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Aug.=20
19~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Aug.=20
20~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Aug. 21~Pricilla =
Cruse,=20
Lubbock,TX<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Aug.=20
22~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Aug.=20
23~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Aug.=20
24~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Aug.=20
25~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Aug.=20
26~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Aug.=20
27~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Aug.=20
28~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Aug.=20
29~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Aug.=20
30~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Aug.=20
31~<BR><BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
SEPTEMBER<BR><BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Sep.=20
1~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Sep.=20
2~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Sep.=20
3~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Sep. 4~ Doug-=20
PA<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Sep.=20
5~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Sep.=20
6~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Sep.=20
7~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Sep.=20
8~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Sep.=20
9~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Sep.=20
10~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Sep.=20
11~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Sep.=20
12~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Sep.=20
13~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Sep.=20
14~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Sep.=20
15~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Sep. 16~Caryn Harness~ =
Mt.=20
Carmel, IL<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Sep.=20
17~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Sep.=20
18~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Sep. 19~ Elisha=20
Coston--IL<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Sep.=20
20~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Sep.=20
21~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Sep.=20
22~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Sep. 23~Meagan Holman- =

Il<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Sep. 24~Nathan Gabbard, =

IL<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Sep.=20
25~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Sep. 26~ Jana=20
Doty--IL<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Sep.=20
27~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Sep. 28~Sheena =
Idelson,=20
PA<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Sep.=20
29~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Sep. 30~.Kelley, =
Austin,=20
TX&nbsp; : )<BR><BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
OCTOBER<BR><BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Oct.=20
1~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Oct. 2~Jamie Sickman,=20
SC<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Oct. 3~Allie S.*Round =
Rock,=20
TX<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Oct. 4~Debbie=20
Patton*Illinois<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Oct.=20
5~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Oct.=20
6~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Oct.=20
7~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Oct.=20
8~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Oct.=20
9~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Oct.=20
10~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Oct.=20
11~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Oct. 12~ Emily Hagen ~ =

PA<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Oct. 13~ Sarah=20
NY<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Oct.=20
14~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Oct. 15~ Puni --=20
IL<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Oct.=20
16~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Oct.=20
17~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Oct.=20
18~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Oct.=20
19~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Oct.=20
20~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Oct.=20
21~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Oct.=20
22~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Oct.=20
23~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Oct.=20
24~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Oct. 25~ Emily B.=20
Moffitt~Malvern,&nbsp; PA<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
Oct.=20
26~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Oct.=20
27~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Oct.=20
28~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Oct. 29~Jessica=20
Hazlett-IL<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Oct.=20
30~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Oct. 31~Karen-Elam, =
PA, Maria,=20
PA<BR><BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
NOVEMBER<BR><BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Nov. 1~=20
Sarah-Wilmington, DE<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Nov.=20
2~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Nov.=20
3~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Nov.=20
4~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Nov.=20
5~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Nov.=20
6~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Nov. 7~ Molly Janney,=20
IL!!!<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Nov.=20
8~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Nov.=20
9~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Nov.=20
10~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Nov.=20
11~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Nov.=20
12~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Nov.=20
13~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Nov.=20
14~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Nov.=20
15~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Nov.=20
16~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Nov.=20
17~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Nov.=20
18~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Nov.=20
19~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Nov.=20
20~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Nov.=20
21~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Nov.=20
22~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Nov.=20
23~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Nov.=20
24~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Nov.=20
25~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Nov.=20
26~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Nov.=20
27~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Nov.=20
28~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Nov.=20
29~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Nov.=20
30~<BR><BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
DECEMBER<BR><BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Dec.=20
1~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Dec.=20
2~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Dec.=20
3~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Dec.=20
4~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Dec.=20
5~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Dec. 6~*~*~* Tiffany from=20
Illinois!!!! *~*~*<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Dec.=20
7~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Dec.=20
8~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Dec.=20
9~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Dec.=20
10~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Dec.=20
11~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Dec.=20
12~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Dec.=20
13~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Dec.=20
14~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Dec.=20
15~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Dec.=20
16~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Dec.=20
17~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Dec.=20
18~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Dec.=20
19~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Dec.=20
20~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Dec.=20
21~VeronicaRae&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
Tx<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Dec.=20
22~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Dec.=20
23~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Dec.=20
24~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Dec.=20
25~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Dec. 26~ Dennis =
Winter~~~Wilmington,=20
Delaware (unfortunately)<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Dec.=20
27~Cindy-El Paso, Tx<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Dec.=20
28~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Dec.=20
29~<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Dec. 30~brett- mt.carmel=20
illinois<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Dec.=20
31~<BR></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-glass Tue Aug  8 07:30:11 2000
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	for rglass-42; Tue, 8 Aug 2000 07:10:22 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #385 built 2000-Aug-7)
X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: looking for Robert W. McInnes
Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2000 10:06:37 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

If anyone has his email, address, or phone number, please send it
to me in a private email.  The address & phone number I have for
him are all out-of-service, and I'm trying to get him his IGGA 2000
Sources Guide.  Any help will be appreciated.

Christie A. Wood - IGGA Exec. Director
North Wales, PA USA
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From owner-glass Tue Aug  8 11:31:15 2000
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	for rglass-42; Tue, 8 Aug 2000 11:06:44 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #385 built 2000-Aug-7)
X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: "E. Hammond" <lizrob@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Sal Ammoniac
Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2000 07:44:41 +0100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<4.2.2.20000807160913.00a80360@192.168.1.4>>
Precedence: bulk

I use my block by rubbing the solder bit on the block until it begins to
smoke, then use brass wire brush to clean bit, put the bit back on the
block until it smokes and then add a few drops of solder to the bit
while it is in contact with the block.  

If the bit is smoothly covered with solder it is clean. If there are
black spots, I use the bras wire brush again and repeat until I get a
well tinned solder bit.  

I do not put flux on the block (As I don't know if there will be a
chemical reaction between the sal ammoniac and the flux.  So many
worried about the effects of traditional methods, but doing things to
create possible new hazards)

Steve

 In message <4.2.2.20000807160913.00a80360@192.168.1.4>, E. Hammond
<lizrob@mindspring.com> writes
>Thanks, everyone for the answer to my question.
>
>In response, I'll say that my ventilation system consists of a window and a fan 
>which blows air across my workspace, sending fumes outside. It doesn't really 
>keep the fumes away from me, just keeps them from building up. I'm working with 
>lead-free solder so I think this setup is sufficient. If it's not, holler, 
>please.
>
>I have not put flux on the sal ammoniac cake, but it sounds like a good idea. 
>I'll try it.
>
>Lizzy
>
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-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Tue Aug  8 16:31:33 2000
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X-Path: ntlworld.com!kaylawrence
From: "kaylawrence" <kaylawrence@ntlworld.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: NEW GLASS PAINTING/FUSING COURSE - SOUTH WALES
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 00:06:05 +0100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

There's a new 30 week course on Glass painting and fusing starting in
Pontypool (Gwent) in September.
It's scheduled for Tuesday mornings (10 am - 12.noon) which might prove
inconvenient for those with a 9 - 5 work commitment.
Starting date is 12/09/2000 and fees are 1 UK pound per hour (max.), or
free if in receipt of benefits

The tutor is Eugene Nowakowsky  who runs a glass studio at the Model
House in Llantrisant as well as teaching at other venues.

For more info. contact::  The Settlement, Trosnant Street, Pontypool.
Tel: 01495 762266 or ask me.
I've no connection - I just want to spread the word to help ensure it
runs.  The minimum number of
students needed to make the course viable is 8  and I've got my name on
the list already.

Kay

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From owner-glass Tue Aug  8 20:47:46 2000
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X-Path: aol.com!Kauriee
From: Kauriee@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Brass Came
Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2000 23:25:55 EDT
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hello!
Has anyone ever used the flexible brass came that is advertised in some 
catalogs?  It usually is shown with a piece of the brass came wrapped around 
a quarter to emphasize it's flexibility.  I have a student that wants to make 
a fanlight with bevels, and brass.  No straight lines.
Thanks in advance,
Kauriee
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From owner-glass Tue Aug  8 22:00:38 2000
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From: <tuka@attcanada.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Brass Came
Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2000 21:15:31 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

I too would appreciate answers on this one

Shiela
tuka@attcanada.net


Hello!
Has anyone ever used the flexible brass came that is advertised in some
catalogs?  It usually is shown with a piece of the brass came wrapped around
a quarter to emphasize it's flexibility.  I have a student that wants to
make
a fanlight with bevels, and brass.  No straight lines.
Thanks in advance,
Kauriee
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From owner-glass Wed Aug  9 01:26:35 2000
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X-Path: policeone.com!officerjqg
From: officerjqg@policeone.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: Shows
Date: 9 Aug 2000 00:58:59 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

I went to the Denver show on Sunday (Thanks Candy for informing me). It was not as big as I expected but I got some new ideas and got motivated to do some "Holiday" pieces.  I also realized that I would like to go to a trade show like the one everyone wrote about in Vegas.  Is the Vegas one a yearly thing and if not are there any in or around Colorado coming up.



James


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From owner-glass Wed Aug  9 04:30:44 2000
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From: Wskyrnr21@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: odessy ball chain
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 07:17:42 EDT
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

I am in the process of building an Odessy project which requires the 
attachment of the "ball chain" to the rim.  Can someone tell me how to tin 
and attach the ball chain to the rim?

Thanks...............................Kevin
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From owner-glass Wed Aug  9 08:01:00 2000
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From: "Jill Medlyn" <jazzykid@tir.com>
To: <officerjqg@policeone.com>, <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Shows
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 10:32:27 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Hi James,

Yes it's a yearly event and for more info
http://www.glasscraftexpo.com/index2.html

Hope to see you there,

Jill

>I went to the Denver show on Sunday (Thanks Candy for informing me). It was
not as big as I expected but I got some new ideas and got motivated to do
some "Holiday" pieces.  I also realized that I would like to go to a trade
show like the one everyone wrote about in Vegas.  Is the Vegas one a yearly
thing and if not are there any in or around Colorado coming up.
>
>
>
>James
>
>
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>

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From owner-glass Wed Aug  9 08:32:49 2000
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From: Awbaxter@aol.com
To: Kauriee@aol.com, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: Brass Came
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 10:58:24 EDT
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

In a message dated 8/8/00 11:48:31 PM Eastern Daylight Time, Kauriee@aol.com 
writes:

<< Has anyone ever used the flexible brass came that is advertised in some 
 catalogs?  It usually is shown with a piece of the brass came wrapped around 
 a quarter to emphasize it's flexibility.  I have a student that wants to 
make 
 a fanlight with bevels, and brass.  No straight lines. >>

Hi Kauriee,
I have made a number of panels with that brass-covered lead came.  It is more 
difficult to work with, as the brass can still crimp on tight curves, but not 
impossible.  

I usually wrap a length of the came around a small can or jar so it is a 
coil, and then fit the "already-curved" came around the glass as I normally 
would lead anything else.  

Work carefully, either tightening up the curve or pulling it looser to fit 
the glass pieces, being careful not to cause a "bend", which will crimp.  The 
smaller the curve, the more difficult... forget that quarter!

It is definitely easier to use this metal with straight lines... or convince 
the customer to go with the traditional look of beautifully polished lead, 
instead!  (which is what I do...)

Good luck,
Ann
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From owner-glass Wed Aug  9 10:43:45 2000
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X-Path: stratus.com!Charlie_Spitzer
From: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie_Spitzer@stratus.com>
To: "'hotglass@list.bb.net'" <hotglass@list.bb.net>,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: WTB: Glass kiln
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 10:28:18 -0700 
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

looking to buy my first kiln and digital controller. not sure if i'm going
to stick with it, so am looking for a used one. if you have a smallish one
(15" wide and 10" deep minimum size) that's just kicking around, please let
me know.

i've been watching on various auction sites, but if you know of anyplace
that sells used kilns on the net, i'd also appreciate hearing about it.

thanks,
charlie
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From owner-glass Wed Aug  9 11:00:40 2000
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From: ARTIZ01@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Glass Vision 2000
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 13:47:35 EDT
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Would like to go to glass vision 2000  at Warner Crivellero but they are sold 
out.  I understand that they are sold out as far as classes but they won't 
even let you purchase the sale items. I would pay the entry fee just to get 
the specials but guess they can't do that. Or am I understanding this wrong?
Bob
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From owner-glass Wed Aug  9 12:02:46 2000
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Subject: Hai
Date: 9 Aug 2000 11:43:26 -0700
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Hai ,
      I want u to send the mailing id's list to me so that i can make friendship with new people.


__________________________________________________
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From owner-glass Wed Aug  9 12:16:42 2000
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From: Bobfuses@aol.com
To: Charlie_Spitzer@stratus.com, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: WTB: Glass kiln
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 14:54:35 EDT
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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In a message dated 8/9/00 10:46:26 AM Pacific Daylight Time, 
Charlie_Spitzer@stratus.com writes:

> looking to buy my first kiln and digital controller. Not sure if I'm going
> to stick with it, so am looking for a used one. if you have a smallish one
> (15" wide and 10" deep minimum size) that's just kicking around, please let
> me know.
>  
Change that to 9" deep and there are a lot more potential kilns. Still it 
will be very good luck that finds one of these treasures.

Cheers, Bob in 9 2 0 2 6
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From owner-glass Wed Aug  9 17:31:00 2000
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From: barbara elmore <barbaraelmore@yahoo.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: brass came and a new question
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 17:09:12 -0700 (PDT)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

I, too, have the brass coated lead came, and have not
used it on a large piece yet.  

Do I need to use putty and whiting on it?  Or will
this destroy the brass coating with the brushing,
etc.?



=====
Thank you,
Barbara Elmore

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From owner-glass Wed Aug  9 18:35:23 2000
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Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 21:19:48 EDT
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I'm thinking of investing in a came saw. Any suggestions as to what you 
consider the best.
Thanks
sheila  
shecharlie@aol.com
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From owner-glass Thu Aug 10 00:20:25 2000
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From: "lily-b" <lily-b@tinyworld.co.uk>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: Kilns
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 07:54:05 +0100
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0022_01C002A0.27D27220
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hi

Re Charlie's enquiry about buying kilns. I presume you are US based? =
Just in case you're not, the place below is worth checking out. It's in =
the UK, they have some good used stuff that's pretty good but I don't =
know if overseas delivery charges would make it viable or not?

Cheers

lily b  =20

http://www.burntstone.co.uk


For contemporary designs in glass, from tiles and coasters to garden =
water features, visit lilyb designs.=20

Commissions very welcome!

--->  http://www.lilyb.com  <---=20
    =20

------=_NextPart_000_0022_01C002A0.27D27220
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4134.600" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Hi</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Re </FONT><FONT face=3DArial =
size=3D2>Charlie's enquiry=20
about buying kilns. I presume you are US based? Just in case you're not, =
the=20
place below is worth checking out. It's in the UK, they have some good =
used=20
stuff that's pretty good but I don't know if&nbsp;overseas delivery =
charges=20
would make it viable or not?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Cheers</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>lily b&nbsp;&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><FONT face=3DArial =
size=3D2></FONT></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><FONT face=3DArial =
size=3D2>http://<FONT face=3DArial=20
size=3D2><A =
href=3D"http://www.burntstone.co.uk">www.burntstone.co.uk</A></FONT><A=20
href=3D"http://www.burntstone.co.uk"></A></FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>For contemporary designs in glass, from =
tiles and=20
coasters to garden water features, visit lilyb designs. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Commissions very welcome!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>---&gt;&nbsp; <A=20
href=3D"http://www.lilyb.com">http://www.lilyb.com</A>&nbsp; &lt;---=20
<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; </FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0022_01C002A0.27D27220--

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From owner-glass Thu Aug 10 05:59:41 2000
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X-Path: aol.com!Depdee70
From: Depdee70@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: glass paper wt.
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 08:38:32 EDT
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hi would like to know how to make a glass paper wt.. can not fine any books 
on this..thanks a lot and have a good day...Dee     depdee70@aol.com
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From owner-glass Thu Aug 10 08:00:50 2000
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From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: brass came and a new question
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 10:55:25 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Message text written by barbara elmore
>Do I need to use putty and whiting on it?  Or will
this destroy the brass coating with the brushing,
etc.?<

Yes, you need to putty & whiting.  No, it will not
hurt the brass.  If you are going to paint the solder
joints, paint them after you've done the puttying
& whiting.

Christie A. Wood
North Wales, PA USA
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From owner-glass Thu Aug 10 14:31:10 2000
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From: Skip Hodge <shodge@gdi.net>
To: Depdee70@aol.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: glass paper wt.
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 17:21:30 -0400
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Depdee70@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Hi would like to know how to make a glass paper wt.. can not fine any books
> on this..thanks a lot and have a good day...Dee     depdee70@aol.com
> ----
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Try looking up Paul Stankard (he IS the man)
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From owner-glass Thu Aug 10 15:19:21 2000
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From: "Peggy W. Johnsen" <edupjohn@slonet.org>
To: Depdee70@aol.com
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: glass paper wt.
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 15:09:11 -0700 (PDT)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Dee:  Go to Ed Hoy's web pate.  I don't have the address but you can find
it through your search engine.  He has instructions listed on how to make
glass paperweights using a special luminax(?) mold and a light bulb.
Really interesting.  Peggy

On Thu, 10 Aug 2000 Depdee70@aol.com wrote:

> Hi would like to know how to make a glass paper wt.. can not fine any books 
> on this..thanks a lot and have a good day...Dee     depdee70@aol.com
> ----
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From owner-glass Thu Aug 10 17:54:08 2000
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From: "Candy" <candy@ghostman.com>
To: "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: glass paper wt.
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 00 18:30:24 
Message-ID: <200008110033.SAA14012@mantis.privatei.com>
Precedence: bulk

On Thu, 10 Aug 2000 15:09:11 -0700 (PDT), Peggy W. Johnsen wrote:

>Dee:  Go to Ed Hoy's web pate.  I don't have the address but you can find
>it through your search engine.  He has instructions listed on how to make
>glass paperweights using a special luminax(?) mold and a light bulb.
>Really interesting.  Peggy

Peggy,

I just went there.. they have instructions on how to do the fused bracelets, no 
paperweights, nor the mold either.

Candy

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From owner-glass Fri Aug 11 07:31:01 2000
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X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: IGGA inquiry: Toots Zynsky
Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2000 10:12:15 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

If anyone has information about the glass artist, Toots
Zynsky, would they please contact Shirley Isaacs at
misaacs@cwcom.net?  Thanks.

Christie A. Wood - IGGA Exec. Director
North Wales, PA USA
-------------Forwarded Message-----------------
From:	"mike isaacs", INTERNET:misaacs@cwcom.net
Date:	08/10/2000  2:38 PM
 =

I am trying to find some information about the
technique of "fused and slumped" glass. The
artist I am interested in is Toots Zynsky.
Many Thanks.
Shirley Isaacs=
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From owner-glass Fri Aug 11 18:01:45 2000
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From: net-job@mail.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: ALL MEMBERS MUST READ. DO NOT DELETE.
Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2000 14:46:48 -0700 (PDT)
Message-ID: <652J4JL1.1V6AX0W3@mail.com>
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<HTML></P><P ALIGN=CENTER><B><A HREF="http://www.angelfire.com/il3/cashmaker/mail.htm"><FONT SIZE=72>Click  Here</A></B></P></HTML><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br>
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From owner-glass Fri Aug 11 20:31:31 2000
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From: "Peggy W. Johnsen" <edupjohn@slonet.org>
To: Candy <candy@ghostman.com>
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: glass paper wt.
Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2000 18:31:46 -0700 (PDT)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<200008110033.SAA14012@mantis.privatei.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Candy:  Just answered Carol and gave the steps I copies several months
ago.  Sorry I led you on a wild goose chase.  Peggy



On Thu, 10 Aug 2000, Candy wrote:

> On Thu, 10 Aug 2000 15:09:11 -0700 (PDT), Peggy W. Johnsen wrote:
> 
> >Dee:  Go to Ed Hoy's web pate.  I don't have the address but you can find
> >it through your search engine.  He has instructions listed on how to make
> >glass paperweights using a special luminax(?) mold and a light bulb.
> >Really interesting.  Peggy
> 
> Peggy,
> 
> I just went there.. they have instructions on how to do the fused bracelets, no 
> paperweights, nor the mold either.
> 
> Candy
> 
> ----
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> 

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From owner-glass Fri Aug 11 21:03:29 2000
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From: cecnralph <cecnralph@home.com>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Subject: suspicious
Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2000 22:48:11 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Organization: Grendel Studio
Precedence: bulk

I'm not opening any thing like ALL MEMBERS MUST READ until it comes with
a From = Bungi.  Is it on the up and up or just more spam?

Angelfire is a freebe mail thing and cashmaker sounds kinda spammy to
me. - Cec

--
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************


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From owner-glass Fri Aug 11 21:22:17 2000
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From: Bobfuses@aol.com
To: cecnralph@home.com, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: suspicious
Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000 00:06:53 EDT
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

In a message dated 8/11/00 9:04:05 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
cecnralph@home.com writes:

> I'm not opening any thing like ALL MEMBERS MUST READ until it comes with
>  a From = Bungi.  Is it on the up and up or just more spam?
>  
>  Angelfire is a freebe mail thing and cashmaker sounds kinda spammy to
>  me. - Cec

I deleted it and recommend that others do the same. It is clearly nothing 
originated by bungi.

Cheers, Bob in 9 2 0 2 6
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From owner-glass Fri Aug 11 21:56:18 2000
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From: Ken&Geneva Pepper <bitsie@jps.net>
To: cecnralph <cecnralph@home.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: suspicious
Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 14:05:08 -0800
Message-ID: <1998Nov4.658.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Bungie has been hit by spam for a loooonng time.  I trashed the danged
thing!

Geneva

cecnralph wrote:
> 
> I'm not opening any thing like ALL MEMBERS MUST READ until it comes with
> a From = Bungi.  Is it on the up and up or just more spam?
> 
> Angelfire is a freebe mail thing and cashmaker sounds kinda spammy to
> me. - Cec
> 
> --
> *********************************************************************
> *  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
> *  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
> *********************************************************************
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

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From owner-glass Sat Aug 12 00:01:20 2000
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X-Path: warmglass.com!mbwalker
From: "Brad Walker" <mbwalker@warmglass.com>
To: "Candy" <candy@ghostman.com>, <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: glass paper wt.
Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2000 21:45:31 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<200008110033.SAA14012@mantis.privatei.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Ed Hoy has taken down the page that described the fused paperweight and
replaced it with the page on the bracelet.  Basically, the process involved
buying a regular light bulb, applying a thin coating of Luminar 6 to the
outside of the bulb, letting it dry, then removing the stem of the bulb.
Once that is done, you fill the bulb with glass frit and fire to about 1550,
soak for about half an hour, then anneal and cool (slowly, slowly).  You can
do the same thing by encasing a bulb in a plaster/silica mixture.  I've also
seen a mold made from vitreous clay.

What I haven't seen is a fused paperweight that was much to look at.  Most
are a bit cloudy and don't look anything like the paperweights that are made
using a furnace of glory hole.  That process is quite different, but
basically it involves the following steps:

1.  Gather a blob of glass on a punty (the long rod that glassblowers use)
and roll it in frit.
2.  Reheat the glass and melt in the frit.  (The frit color becomes the base
color for the paperweight.)  Block the glass (i.e., shape it) and chill a
bit.
3.  Gather more glass. Pick-up another color.  You can manipulate the color,
roll it around, poke air holes, whatever.  There are lots of techniques.
4.  Chill, then gather again.
5.  Keep this up for a while until you get the size (more or less) you want.
Box it (that is, shape it).  When you're done anneal and cool.

As I mentioned, this is only a really basic listing of the steps (more or
less).  There are lots and lots of variations and special techniques to get
particular effects.  Someone could write a very lengthy book on how to make
paperweights, but I've never seen one.

Hope this helps a bit.

Brad Walker
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
------
For information about warm glass techniques and processes
such as fusing, slumping, and kiln forming, please visit
the Warm Glass website at http://www.warmglass.com

----- Original Message -----
From: Candy <candy@ghostman.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2000 6:30 PM
Subject: Re: glass paper wt.


> On Thu, 10 Aug 2000 15:09:11 -0700 (PDT), Peggy W. Johnsen wrote:
>
> >Dee:  Go to Ed Hoy's web pate.  I don't have the address but you can find
> >it through your search engine.  He has instructions listed on how to make
> >glass paperweights using a special luminax(?) mold and a light bulb.
> >Really interesting.  Peggy
>
> Peggy,
>
> I just went there.. they have instructions on how to do the fused
bracelets, no
> paperweights, nor the mold either.
>
> Candy
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

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From owner-glass Sat Aug 12 07:55:19 2000
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X-Path: aol.com!Preachome
From: Preachome@aol.com
To: Bobfuses@aol.com, cecnralph@home.com, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: suspicious
Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000 10:28:30 EDT
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

All,
 
  Please do not open the mail, All Members Must Read.   The CLICK HERE is an 
executable file that is quite likely a virus.  

  Take care,
  Bill and Andrea Tucker
  His Glory In Glass
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From owner-glass Sat Aug 12 14:57:34 2000
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X-Path: mindspring.com!lizrob
From: "E. Hammond" <lizrob@mindspring.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Square
Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000 16:57:44 -0400
Message-ID: <200008122059.QAA29454@maynard.mail.mindspring.net>
Precedence: bulk

Hi Bungi,

I'm having a very hard time measuring my pieces accurately. For example, I
just tried to fit a 12 x 30 panel into a cabinet door and it was a bit too
wide and not completely square. What kind of tools do you use to measure
and to make sure your piece is square (if it's supposed to be)? Does the
Morton's glass cutting system have anything to do with this?

Thanks,
Lizzy

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From owner-glass Sat Aug 12 16:00:45 2000
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X-Path: erols.com!deethom
From: Dee Thompson <deethom@erols.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Square
Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000 19:02:10 -0400
Message-ID: <3.0.32.20000812190208.00d56318@pop.erols.com>
Precedence: bulk

use a ruler, precut a piece of cardboard to fit the opening...very few
openings are truly square...Morton has nothing to do with anything except
retail sales as far as I know!
Dee

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From owner-glass Sat Aug 12 16:30:39 2000
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X-Path: teleport.com!weaver51
From: "Howard" <weaver51@teleport.com>
To: "Dee Thompson" <deethom@erols.com>,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Square
Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000 16:19:13 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<3.0.32.20000812190208.00d56318@pop.erols.com>>
Organization: weaver51@teleport.com
Precedence: bulk

MORTON is one of the few tools that allow REPETIVE and ACCURATE cutting of
straight lines, stripping and geometric shapes..........
HOWEVER, it is ONLY as good as the time you take to set it up and maintain
the same method of cutting.

One can 100's of pieces with less than a "hair" difference in size of
each.....seems small a "hair", huh, line up 36 pieces to form a grid for a
lamp and see where the last pieces goes......BIG, HUH.

H
weaver51@teleport.com
Elaine and Howard
best lamps on the "net":
http://www.teleport.com/~cbs/howard

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From owner-glass Sat Aug 12 18:01:21 2000
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From: KendraPom@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: I am a beginner
Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000 20:56:20 EDT
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hi folks Kim here, I am new to  stainglassing and love it so far. 
This is my delema....I need any kind of advice on a workbench. Or work area 
that will fit in a corner. I have a "L" shape area to work with.   Just 
cannot go outside the "L" shape. The short part is 2 ft and the long part is 
about 5 ft. (it is the space in the basement that a bathroom should be, the 
tub area)  This work area will only be for a year, until I have my own house. 
Having 3 roomates makes areas small. 
I have the wood and the tools. . Just need anyones advice. I don't like doing 
stainglassing on a TV tray in my bedroom. It isn't easy.
Thanks very much
Kim Breyette
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From owner-glass Sat Aug 12 18:31:22 2000
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X-Path: mindspring.com!lizrob
From: "E. Hammond" <lizrob@mindspring.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Square
Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000 20:02:31 -0400
Message-ID: <200008130004.UAA32036@maynard.mail.mindspring.net>
References: <<200008122059.QAA29454@maynard.mail.mindspring.net>>
Precedence: bulk

Thanks, everyone, for responding to my question. My frustration has been
assuaged. I'll try the cardboard method next time.

Lizzy


At 04:57 PM 08/12/2000 -0400, you wrote:
>Hi Bungi,
>
>I'm having a very hard time measuring my pieces accurately. For example, I
>just tried to fit a 12 x 30 panel into a cabinet door and it was a bit too
>wide and not completely square. What kind of tools do you use to measure
>and to make sure your piece is square (if it's supposed to be)? Does the
>Morton's glass cutting system have anything to do with this?
>
>Thanks,
>Lizzy
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> 

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From owner-glass Sat Aug 12 21:01:21 2000
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X-Path: aol.com!Bobfuses
From: Bobfuses@aol.com
To: KendraPom@aol.com, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: I am a beginner
Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000 23:58:20 EDT
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

In a message dated 8/12/00 6:01:59 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
KendraPom@aol.com writes:

> Hi folks Kim here, I am new to  stainglassing and love it so far. 
>  This is my delema....I need any kind of advice on a workbench. Or work 
area 
>  that will fit in a corner. I have a "L" shape area to work with.  Just 
>  cannot go outside the "L" shape. The short part is 2 ft and the long part 
is 
> 
>  about 5 ft.

Buy a 2' X 7' solid core door and have the hardware store cut it to 5'. Cost 
about US$25.00. Use whatever to set it on.

Cheers, Bob in 9 2 0 2 6
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From owner-glass Sat Aug 12 21:43:03 2000
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X-Path: home.net!esavad
From: "Mike Savad" <esavad@home.net>
To: "E. Hammond" <lizrob@mindspring.com>,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE: Square
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2000 00:21:02 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<200008122059.QAA29454@maynard.mail.mindspring.net>>
Precedence: bulk

generally if you measure accross the diagnals you can check for squareness.
if the numbers match up, it's square. othewise a 12"x15" framing square
would work... but it's not just square you have to worry about. it's also
important to know if there is any bow in the wood or not. it may not fit in
the sides (always leave a little space around the project).


---Mike Savad


Mike's Stained Glass - Tips Tricks Photos
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
4-6-2000 New Pages Added: 1 new tip page: Help buying stained glass, updated
info on the about me page, and 3 window set's for skycity. Including lot's
of new links, and more FREE PATTERN links.



> -----Original Message-----
> From: E. Hammond [mailto:lizrob@mindspring.com]
> Sent: Saturday, August 12, 2000 4:58 PM
> To: glass@bungi.com
> Subject: Square
>
>
> Hi Bungi,
>
> I'm having a very hard time measuring my pieces accurately. For example, I
> just tried to fit a 12 x 30 panel into a cabinet door and it was a bit too
> wide and not completely square. What kind of tools do you use to measure
> and to make sure your piece is square (if it's supposed to be)? Does the
> Morton's glass cutting system have anything to do with this?
>
> Thanks,
> Lizzy
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

----
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From owner-glass Sun Aug 13 06:31:52 2000
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X-Path: aol.com!Wskyrnr21
From: Wskyrnr21@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: ball-chain
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2000 09:19:46 EDT
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

I  am working with the ball-chain attachment for a lampshade.  I am using a 
brass ball-chain from Warner-Criv.  I have used Action Tin to tin the 
ball-chain.  I wiped dry and patinaed in Black using Novocan patina.  I 
watched it set up then returned in the morning the ball-chain had turned 
green and wiped off exposing the brass once again!  What's up with this?
----
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From owner-glass Sun Aug 13 10:19:06 2000
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: "E. Hammond" <lizrob@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Square
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2000 08:26:36 +0100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<200008122059.QAA29454@maynard.mail.mindspring.net>>
Precedence: bulk

Lizzy,
        in addition to the tips about measuring the diagonals, and
taking a template, I would suggest three other things.
        Having determined the dimensions, I take away 5mm (just under a
quarter of an inch) from the overall size.  This allows a margin for
bowing in the frame and makes fitting much easier.
        Build the panel in an "L" shaped frame.  As it is completed, put
the other two sides on form the rectangle, making sure the corners are
right angles, or correct angles for the opening.  Also check the
measurements at this point (top and bottom, left and right, and
diagonals) and make any adjustments.  Only solder when all these
dimensions are correct.         
        Use lead came on perimeter.  This does not weaken the panel, as
the beading covers the lead, and holds the panel in place.  But the lead
can be trimmed to reduce the panel to the opening size if necessary, and
can take up any unevenness in the opening.

        The general message is to ensure your measurements are accurate,
and that you allow a tolerance (one way or another) to make the fitting
easier.

Steve

In message <200008122059.QAA29454@maynard.mail.mindspring.net>, E.
Hammond <lizrob@mindspring.com> writes
>Hi Bungi,
>
>I'm having a very hard time measuring my pieces accurately. For example, I
>just tried to fit a 12 x 30 panel into a cabinet door and it was a bit too
>wide and not completely square. What kind of tools do you use to measure
>and to make sure your piece is square (if it's supposed to be)? Does the
>Morton's glass cutting system have anything to do with this?
>
>Thanks,
>Lizzy
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
----
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From owner-glass Sun Aug 13 11:22:10 2000
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X-Path: home.com!cecnralph
From: cecnralph <cecnralph@home.com>
To: Wskyrnr21@aol.com, Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Subject: Re: ball-chain (patina)
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2000 13:49:30 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Organization: Grendel Studio
Precedence: bulk

As I understand it, brass patinas much faster than lead, so the acid
penetrates so thoroughly that it pretty much makes the layer of color flakey
or porous, so it simply brushes off.  I suggest you clean it off thoroughly
again, wipe it with 91% or higher alcohol, reapply the patina and as soon as
you get a small area the right color, use a sponge and water to wipe the area,
dry with paper towel, then go to the next, wiping the patina acid mix off at
each area you work on.  That will help prevent the fluid from over etching.

I've just been through your problem, so this advice is from bitter
experience.  Steel wool it good  (not the kind with soap in it - use 0000
weight), wash and rinse and dry, then wipe it with 91% alcohol.  Use a bit of
sponge - about the size you'd use on a grinder, and dip it in a tiny amount of
patina fluid.  (I bought a bunch of those tiny little cups used for
administering medicine - just the right size to hold flux and other chemicals,
and you can rinse and throw them away.)

After I got the came to look good, I needed a bronze patina on brass chain and
all I could find was bright brass in a chain heavy enough to bear the weight.
I figured I'd have no chance, considering how hard I found it to patina the
came.  I had two chains.  One I soaked in a small baby food jar overnight to
get the right look.  The other was overpatinaed within 3 minutes, so I spent
the next thirty with the jar full of chain,  water and patina & flux remover -
(CJ's and then Neutra) shaking and shaking.   Probably should have thrown in a
couple marbles.   Both turned out perfect.  I was amazed. - Cec



Wskyrnr21@aol.com wrote:

> I  am working with the ball-chain attachment for a lampshade.  I am using a
> brass ball-chain from Warner-Criv.  I have used Action Tin to tin the
> ball-chain.  I wiped dry and patinaed in Black using Novocan patina.  I
> watched it set up then returned in the morning the ball-chain had turned
> green and wiped off exposing the brass once again!  What's up with this?
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

--
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************


----
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From owner-glass Sun Aug 13 11:49:58 2000
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X-Path: aol.com!Sugturluuq
From: Sugturluuq@aol.com
To: Glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Out of State
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2000 14:34:21 EDT
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hi,  

I will be going out of state and away from my computer for a couple of months 
starting September 22 and ending November 18th. Could you please stop sending 
me Bungi messages during that time?

Thank you.
----
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From owner-glass Sun Aug 13 15:02:40 2000
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X-Path: ix.netcom.com!gunnx4
From: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@ix.netcom.com>
To: Wskyrnr21@aol.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: ball-chain
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2000 16:28:44 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

After applying patina to ball chain spray it with laquer!  Ive tried and
tried and tried...and it's the only that that works for me.

Suzanne

Wskyrnr21@aol.com wrote:
> 
> I  am working with the ball-chain attachment for a lampshade.  I am using a
> brass ball-chain from Warner-Criv.  I have used Action Tin to tin the
> ball-chain.  I wiped dry and patinaed in Black using Novocan patina.  I
> watched it set up then returned in the morning the ball-chain had turned
> green and wiped off exposing the brass once again!  What's up with this?
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
----
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From owner-glass Sun Aug 13 16:04:32 2000
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X-Path: usa.net!9090mm
From: Bedrock Used Book Search <9090mm@usa.net>
To: <glamb@pinkertons.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject:  Loooking For A Used Book?
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2000 18:39:22 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <18161.236751.77796620 glass@intrastar.net>
Precedence: bulk

Looking for a book - just name it and we will try our best find it! 
Send the author or title and/or any other details of your requirements together 
with your 
physical address(SNAIL MAIL ONLY PLEASE)  

                                BEDROCK BOOK SEARCH
                               4724 MURPHY ROAD #25
                               FRANKLIN, NORTH CAROLINA 28734
                               U.S.A.

We will reply by email as soon as we find your book.





We take the hard work out of book hunting. 
Bedrock books your best bet to get that Book! 
Please limit to 2 books per request unless it is a series or duplicates of the same 
book. 

Thank you
Bedrock Book Search
David Hartfeild (Research Director)

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From owner-glass Mon Aug 14 05:58:52 2000
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X-Path: gdi.net!shodge
From: Skip Hodge <shodge@gdi.net>
To: "E. Hammond" <lizrob@mindspring.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Square
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 08:51:24 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<200008122059.QAA29454@maynard.mail.mindspring.net>>
Precedence: bulk

Hey Lizzy,

Well the only tool you really need for making those panels square is a
good tape measure. Make sure you check the measurement caddy corner
accross the piece (from upper left to lower right) then check the
measurement caddy corner (from upper right to lower left) If the
measurement is the same the piece is square.

Skip
Southern Exposure Stained Glass Supply, Inc
----
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From owner-glass Mon Aug 14 09:28:54 2000
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X-Path: city-net.com!dany
From: "Daniela Birkelbach" <dany@city-net.com>
To: "bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: pls remove from list
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 11:30:10 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Please remove dany@city-net.com from your list.  I haven't read any of the
messages in over a year.  I'll be back as soon as time allows...

Dany

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X-Path: aol.com!GlasWiz
From: GlasWiz@aol.com
To: x96dirks@wmich.edu, x91obrien7@wmich.edu, Relf@aol.com,
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Testament Jones
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2000 14:37:38 EDT
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Part boxcar teacher, part vagabond troubadour, Testament Jones was first,
last and always a seeker of truth. Needing the comfort of a straight and
narrow path through this world, he walked the shiny steel rails of the
Iron Horse. Along the way, he found his own awakening in the eyes of
his fellow pilgrims and in the strings of his beat-up old guitar. The songs
he sang delivered a message of hope to the quiet corners of soup kitchens
and drifted on the smoke of a thousand hobo campfires.

Decades later, another seeker of truth walked along those rails and heard
them whisper of a singing preacher who'd passed this way before. Suddenly,
the title for his next album hit him like a freight train: "Testament Jones-
On The Way Home."

Singer/songwriter Gil Reynolds reaches for a brighter light in the seductive
grooves of "Testament Jones- On The Way Home" a new collection of songs which
he'll be performing Friday, September 15 th at 5:00 PM at Music Millennium.

The Folk/Pop sound of "testament jONES" is confidently breaking new ground,
delivering an uplifting message driven by a serious downbeat. The new CD
contains 11 original works by producer / singer / songwriter Gil Reynolds from
Newberg, Oregon. Based in the Willamette Valley for the last 30 years,
Reynolds is a multi-instrumentalist who has entertained audiences from Florida
to L.A, Nashville to Las Vegas. Joining Reynolds for this in-store performance
are drummer Jayson Foidel, bass player Jared Hermens and Rich Layton on
harmonica.

The music of "On The Way Home" is about human issues and the sometimes deep
challenges we are all faced with on a daily basis. "I believe in songs that
communicate, that say something. Some have called my music 'too intelligent'
for mainstream audiences, but I disagree. The concepts are universal. Like
Testament Jones, there's a little bit of the teacher in me. But as long as a
songwriter is dealing with real issues, there will always be people that can
connect and relate to what that writer has to say."

Reynolds adds," From my point of view, when I'm only seeing obstacles, I've
have lost sight of my goals. My goal here is to transcend all of the labels,
to take my music to that level where everyone connects, and you get those
nice little warm chills up the back of your spine. When that happens, I feel
like Testament Jones might be right there on-stage with me.

Be sure to mark your calendars for Sept 15th at 5:00 pm - Testament Jones 
(that's me and some friends from LEC) will be performing LIVE at Music 
Millennium - would love to see you all there.

 Gil Reynolds

PS "I like what is in work - the chance to find yourself. Your own reality, 
for 
yourself, not for others. What no other can ever know." (Joseph Conrad, Heart 
of Darkness)

CHECK OUT THE TESTAMNET JONES WEB SITE AT www.testamentjones.com/
OR PICK UP A COPY OF THIS GREAT CD AT amazon.com

Here is what people are saying about "testament jONES".....
Alan Peterson - Songwriter, recording artist
       "Love the CD.  It sounds both familiar and brand new.  It feels like 
home to me."

Kate Carroll deGutes -  Author, Artists Way Instructor
   "Testament Jones Rocks. After one listen through I was whistling the 
tunes. It literally never leaves the CD player."

Jennifer Lopez - Actress, Musician
    "How did you get past security?"

Scott Hiebick- Programmer WYCE, Grand Rapids
The CD sounds great! I really enjoyed the variety of influences (folk, rock, 
jazz, reggae, shuffle, etc.) from song to song. It's also nice to hear 
someone have the guts to put a bunch of positive lyrics out there... nice 
going!

Nancy Harris Singer/ Song Writer
I've really been enjoying your creation!  A couple of mornings I started the 
day with "Let Your Love Rain Down" and it kinda worked like a positive mantra 
for the whole day. And the first time I heard it, I just had to start singing 
along with a higher harmony. It was irresistible! I was delighted with the 
spiritual underpinnings of your music.

"Give it a listen ... bet you'll like it"  t. jONES


----
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From owner-glass Tue Aug 15 12:03:13 2000
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X-Path: pacifier.com!ptap
From: Pamela Burns-Tappan <ptap@pacifier.com>
To: "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Need artist involved with Penn. Art Fest.
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 05:22:24 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Organization: Stained Glass Artists
Precedence: bulk


Hi all,

I'm trying to locate an unnamed artist who sold mirrors with stained
glass frames at the Pennsylvania Arts Festival in 1998. If you remember
this artist please let me know.

Thanks

Pam
--

Ms. Pamela Burns-Tappan
Executive Director
The Stained Glass Artists
http://stainedglassartists.com
A Division of: Moswood Mountain Ltd.
http://moswoodmountainltd.com


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From owner-glass Tue Aug 15 12:33:53 2000
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From: GlasWiz@aol.com
To: x96dirks@wmich.edu, x91obrien7@wmich.edu, Relf@aol.com,
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Testament Jones
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2000 14:41:53 EDT
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Part boxcar teacher, part vagabond troubadour, Testament Jones was first,
last and always a seeker of truth. Needing the comfort of a straight and
narrow path through this world, he walked the shiny steel rails of the
Iron Horse. Along the way, he found his own awakening in the eyes of
his fellow pilgrims and in the strings of his beat-up old guitar. The songs
he sang delivered a message of hope to the quiet corners of soup kitchens
and drifted on the smoke of a thousand hobo campfires.

Decades later, another seeker of truth walked along those rails and heard
them whisper of a singing preacher who'd passed this way before. Suddenly,
the title for his next album hit him like a freight train: "Testament Jones-
On The Way Home."

Singer/songwriter Gil Reynolds reaches for a brighter light in the seductive
grooves of "Testament Jones- On The Way Home" a new collection of songs which
he'll be performing Friday, September 15 th at 5:00 PM at Music Millennium.

The Folk/Pop sound of "testament jONES" is confidently breaking new ground,
delivering an uplifting message driven by a serious downbeat. The new CD
contains 11 original works by producer / singer / songwriter Gil Reynolds from
Newberg, Oregon. Based in the Willamette Valley for the last 30 years,
Reynolds is a multi-instrumentalist who has entertained audiences from Florida
to L.A, Nashville to Las Vegas. Joining Reynolds for this in-store performance
are drummer Jayson Foidel, bass player Jared Hermens and Rich Layton on
harmonica.

The music of "On The Way Home" is about human issues and the sometimes deep
challenges we are all faced with on a daily basis. "I believe in songs that
communicate, that say something. Some have called my music 'too intelligent'
for mainstream audiences, but I disagree. The concepts are universal. Like
Testament Jones, there's a little bit of the teacher in me. But as long as a
songwriter is dealing with real issues, there will always be people that can
connect and relate to what that writer has to say."

Reynolds adds," From my point of view, when I'm only seeing obstacles, I've
have lost sight of my goals. My goal here is to transcend all of the labels,
to take my music to that level where everyone connects, and you get those
nice little warm chills up the back of your spine. When that happens, I feel
like Testament Jones might be right there on-stage with me.

Be sure to mark your calendars for Sept 15th at 5:00 pm - Testament Jones 
(that's me and some friends from LEC) will be performing LIVE at Music 
Millennium - would love to see you all there.

 Gil Reynolds

PS "I like what is in work - the chance to find yourself. Your own reality, 
for 
yourself, not for others. What no other can ever know." (Joseph Conrad, Heart 
of Darkness)

CHECK OUT THE TESTAMNET JONES WEB SITE AT www.testamentjones.com/
OR PICK UP A COPY OF THIS GREAT CD AT amazon.com

Here is what people are saying about "testament jONES".....
Alan Peterson - Songwriter, recording artist
       "Love the CD.  It sounds both familiar and brand new.  It feels like 
home to me."

Kate Carroll deGutes -  Author, Artists Way Instructor
   "Testament Jones Rocks. After one listen through I was whistling the 
tunes. It literally never leaves the CD player."

Jennifer Lopez - Actress, Musician
    "How did you get past security?"

Scott Hiebick- Programmer WYCE, Grand Rapids
The CD sounds great! I really enjoyed the variety of influences (folk, rock, 
jazz, reggae, shuffle, etc.) from song to song. It's also nice to hear 
someone have the guts to put a bunch of positive lyrics out there... nice 
going!

Nancy Harris Singer/ Song Writer
I've really been enjoying your creation!  A couple of mornings I started the 
day with "Let Your Love Rain Down" and it kinda worked like a positive mantra 
for the whole day. And the first time I heard it, I just had to start singing 
along with a higher harmony. It was irresistible! I was delighted with the 
spiritual underpinnings of your music.

"Give it a listen ... bet you'll like it"  t. jONES


----
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To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
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From owner-glass Tue Aug 15 13:35:15 2000
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From: "Peggy W. Johnsen" <edupjohn@slonet.org>
To: KendraPom@aol.com
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Subject: Re: I am a beginner
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2000 13:24:33 -0700 (PDT)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Hi Kim:  At Home Base there is a storage shelf that is 2' x 4'.  For a
workbench to fit in the area you described, this would be perfect.  It
has adjustable shelves and you can position them at whatever height you
wanted.  Actually one storage shelf would make two workbenches.  They cost
about $90 so if you know of someone to go in with you, this would be an
ideal way to get a workbench.  Then I would suggest that you get a 2'4'
board to go over it to keep your shelf clean as you flux and solder on it.
Peggy

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From owner-glass Tue Aug 15 16:03:42 2000
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Subject: Stained Glass
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2000 17:58:49 EDT
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Hi Everyone,
    A suggestion was made that I make this request to your group and maybe 
someone would be able to help.
    Cocker Spaniel Rescue of New England is holding it's annual fundraising 
auction on October 15th to help raise much needed funds to assist with the 
medical needs, which are many, of the cockers that come into our program.  I 
was wondering if any of you might consider donating one of your beautiful 
Pieces to help with our fundraising efforts?  I know that someone would make 
a wonderful donation to own one of your Pieces and the money raised goes 
directly "to the dogs!"  We are a nonprofit 501 (c)(3) organization and your 
donation is entirely tax deductible.  Thank you in advance for any donation 
that you might be able to make.   Christine Eddy
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From owner-glass Wed Aug 16 06:38:15 2000
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From: Skip Hodge <shodge@gdi.net>
To: Glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Central FL Get-together
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 09:04:12 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Hello fellow bungians,

This ought to be a real blast, Can't  wait to meet y'all.

Don't forget Saturday August 26th 5:00pm ish.
Holiday Inn Ocoee

If anyone needs directions let me know.

Wahooooooooo.

Skip
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From owner-glass Wed Aug 16 06:52:27 2000
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From: "Marylou" <mlbgjb@tmlp.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
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Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2000 21:46:42 -0400
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hello all -

my name's marylou and i'm from massachusetts.=20

i've been doing stained glass for almost a year, mostly small pieces.=20

i'm a stay at home mom of two children, a girl 3 and a boy 2.

i look forward to hearing from you all.

marylou

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<DIV><FONT size=3D4>hello all -</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D4>my name's marylou and i'm from massachusetts. =
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D4></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D4>i've been doing stained glass for almost a year, =
mostly small=20
pieces. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D4>i'm a stay at home mom of two children, a girl 3 and =
a boy=20
2.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D4>i look forward to hearing from you all.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D4>marylou</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-glass Wed Aug 16 12:08:28 2000
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From: ARTIZ01@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Sand Blasting and spray painting
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 13:23:51 EDT
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

I am sand blasting a pattern on back of a mirror and would like to paint it 
using 3 different colors.  I have a small spray gun,   Can you tell me how to 
go about this?
Thanks for your help.
Bob
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From owner-glass Wed Aug 16 13:30:54 2000
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Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 16:02:26 EDT
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Hello and welcome. The people are friendly here and will answer any questions 
that you might have.  Be prepared to learn alot & make new friends.    Debi
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From owner-glass Wed Aug 16 13:39:58 2000
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please remove me from this list temporarly. 

Thank you!

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com/
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From owner-glass Wed Aug 16 15:45:23 2000
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From: Bobfuses@aol.com
To: ARTIZ01@aol.com, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: Sand Blasting and spray painting
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 17:24:10 EDT
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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In a message dated 8/16/00 12:10:04 PM Pacific Daylight Time, ARTIZ01@aol.com 
writes:

> I am sand blasting a pattern on back of a mirror and would like to paint it 
>  using 3 different colors.  I have a small spray gun, Can you tell me how 
> to go about this? Thanks for your help.

Just remove the resist after blasting, clean very well and cover up/uncover 
the areas you wish to spray paint. 


Cheers, Bob in 92026
Learn from the mistakes of others. You can't live long enough to make them 
all yourself.
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From owner-glass Wed Aug 16 16:16:40 2000
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From: "Connie's Creations" <conniescreations@hotmail.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
Subject: Looking for Spectrum limited edition postcard
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 12:51:38 PDT
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Hi all,

I am looking for one of the limited edition postcards from
Spectrum that is of a man going through a door. Spectrum
no longer has any of these.

Does anybody have one or could they scan one and send it
to me as a jpeg or do they know where I could get one possibly?

Connie Bartel
conniescreations@hotmail.com
blueheron59@email.msn.com

________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com

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From owner-glass Wed Aug 16 16:30:45 2000
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: ARTIZ01@aol.com
Subject: Re: Sand Blasting and spray painting
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 23:37:18 +0100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk

If you are using opaque paints, Bob, you only need to mask off the area
you don't want to paint for the first colour.  Then on subsequent
colours, the already painted areas will not need a mask, only the ones
to get other colours.  Start off with the darkest or most intense
colours first.

Steve
 In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, ARTIZ01@aol.com writes
>I am sand blasting a pattern on back of a mirror and would like to paint it 
>using 3 different colors.  I have a small spray gun,   Can you tell me how to 
>go about this?
>Thanks for your help.
>Bob
>----
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-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Wed Aug 16 18:17:37 2000
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From: "Connie's Creations" <conniescreations@hotmail.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
Subject: Correction/about postcard/man walking out the door
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 16:46:46 PDT
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Hi to all again.
I found a jpeg on Spectrum's site of the piece I was looking for
but evidently they did make postcards and posters of it.
I would like to know if anybody has any they are willing to part
with in good condition.
________________________________________________________________________
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From owner-glass Wed Aug 16 20:31:38 2000
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Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 20:24:42 -0700 (PDT)
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Please resign me up to the mail list.I haven't been getting bungi mail.





_______________________________________________________
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http://www.home.com/xinbox/signup.html

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From owner-glass Thu Aug 17 01:02:06 2000
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From: "cheryl zipf" <glassgirl@mindspring.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: Copper Came
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 20:28:15 -0700
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HELP!!!   trying out some Copper came to wrap some bevels in .... I am  =
clueless on how to work in copper I have a came bender and a metal miter =
saw ...what do i put on my solder joints to have them match the new =
copper ..thanks guys !!

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<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>HELP!!!&nbsp;&nbsp; trying out some =
Copper came to=20
wrap some bevels in .... I am&nbsp; clueless on how to work in copper I =
have a=20
came bender and a metal miter saw ...what do i put on my solder joints =
to have=20
them match the new copper ..thanks guys !!</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-glass Thu Aug 17 02:02:05 2000
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X-Path: worldnet.att.net!Moya-Don
From: "D. ONeal" <Moya-Don@worldnet.att.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: NG, re: hello
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 22:48:08 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Marylou,
Welcome to Bungi.  This is a great bunch of folks who are ever ready to help
you out with a problem, or just to add to your knowledge base on glass (and
some other areas as well :>) )
Enjoy!
Moya

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From owner-glass Thu Aug 17 08:31:17 2000
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X-Path: mindspring.com!cholloway
From: Craig Holloway <cholloway@mindspring.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Help!
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2000 10:03:56 -0400
Message-ID: <1.5.4.32.20000817140356.0066dce8@pop.mindspring.com>
Precedence: bulk

Hi all!
        Any thoughts on which strip cutter to buy? By-The-Way anyone in the
Dacula, GA area who would like to get together to talk glass? I am also
looking for a copy of an artical in "Fast Break #13" from Uroboros. The
artical was by Patrice Lampton on using textured glass, it was part one of
two. If anyone can email me a copy of the artical or tell me hoe to get in
touch with Ms. Lampton I would be most happy.
Craig

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From owner-glass Thu Aug 17 10:01:28 2000
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X-Path: slonet.org!edupjohn
From: "Peggy W. Johnsen" <edupjohn@slonet.org>
To: Craig Holloway <cholloway@mindspring.com>
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Help!
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2000 09:23:39 -0700 (PDT)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1.5.4.32.20000817140356.0066dce8@pop.mindspring.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Craig:  I like the Morton System's Portable Glass Shop.  It is a little
pricy but it will be invaluable as you make geometric shapes, i.e., lamps,
boxes, straight edges, etc.  Peggy

On Thu, 17 Aug 2000, Craig Holloway wrote:

> Hi all!
>         Any thoughts on which strip cutter to buy? By-The-Way anyone in the
> Dacula, GA area who would like to get together to talk glass? I am also
> looking for a copy of an artical in "Fast Break #13" from Uroboros. The
> artical was by Patrice Lampton on using textured glass, it was part one of
> two. If anyone can email me a copy of the artical or tell me hoe to get in
> touch with Ms. Lampton I would be most happy.
> Craig
> 
> ----
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> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> 

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From owner-glass Thu Aug 17 10:14:01 2000
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X-Path: artglassw.com!dandl
From: "Art Glass of Wenatchee" <dandl@artglassw.com>
To: "Craig Holloway" <cholloway@mindspring.com>, <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE: Help!
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2000 10:12:34 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1.5.4.32.20000817140356.0066dce8@pop.mindspring.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Craig,

All depends what you want to do with it.  If all you are doing is cutting
strips & circles, the Glastar strip & circle cutter is fine.  If you will be
cutting other geometric shapes, I would suggest the Morton Glass Shop.  The
MGS doesn't cut circles.

Dave
Art Glass of Wenatchee
You Address for Low cost Supplies
http://www.stained-glass-supplies.com

-----Original Message-----
From: Craig Holloway [mailto:cholloway@mindspring.com]
Sent: Thursday, August 17, 2000 7:04 AM
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Help!


Hi all!
        Any thoughts on which strip cutter to buy? By-The-Way anyone in the
Dacula, GA area who would like to get together to talk glass? I am also
looking for a copy of an artical in "Fast Break #13" from Uroboros. The
artical was by Patrice Lampton on using textured glass, it was part one of
two. If anyone can email me a copy of the artical or tell me hoe to get in
touch with Ms. Lampton I would be most happy.
Craig

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From owner-glass Thu Aug 17 11:08:57 2000
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	for rglass-42; Thu, 17 Aug 2000 10:51:34 -0700 (PDT)
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X-Path: fbol.com!Patty.McMaster
From: Patty.McMaster@fbol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject:  Kilns
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2000 12:37:28 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk


Ssome time ago I asked a question about  a kiln that I used to make
ceramics in

It was practically new when I purchased it

It has a kiln sitter on it - someone said I would need to get a pyrmeter
to fire glass in there

Now someone locally - (I am in ST LOUIS MO )
 told me that all the pyrometer is going to do is give me the temperature
in the kiln

It is not going to allow me to " ADJUST " the temperature

PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!!!
I really want to FUSE & SLUMP

Thank You,
Patty


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From owner-glass Thu Aug 17 13:23:20 2000
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X-Path: mindspring.com!glassgirl
From: "cheryl zipf" <glassgirl@mindspring.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/related;
Subject: help
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2000 15:38:57 -0700
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Craig I just use my old Glastar strip and circle ive had the thing for =
10 years and only on my 4th replacement head,   though some people love =
the morton system stuff. also I am in Marietta GA how close is that to =
dacula GA  =20

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<BODY background=3Dcid:001c01c0089b$ee4c3a20$210f45cf@oemcomputer =
bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>Craig&nbsp;I just use my old Glastar strip and circle =
ive had=20
the thing for 10 years and only on my 4th replacement head,&nbsp;&nbsp; =
though=20
some people love the morton system stuff. also I am in Marietta GA how =
close is=20
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From owner-glass Thu Aug 17 15:52:56 2000
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Received: by daver.bungi.com
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	id <m13PYBa-0000NKa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Thu, 17 Aug 2000 15:30:54 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #401 built 2000-Aug-17)
X-Path: stainedglass.co.uk!studio
From: "studio@stainedglass.co.uk" <studio@stainedglass.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Kilns
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2000 22:21:52 +0100
Message-ID: <3.0.5.32.20000817222152.007b4600@mailhost.stainedglass.co.uk>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

At 12:37 17/08/00 -0500, Patti wrote:
>
>Some time ago I asked a question about  a kiln that I used to make
>ceramics in.  .  .  .  .Now someone locally - (I am in ST LOUIS MO )
> told me that all the pyrometer is going to do is give me the temperature
>in the kiln .  .  .  .
>I really want to FUSE & SLUMP

I am sure you can get some sort of gadget that will set off an alarm when a
pre-set temperature has been reached.  If you stay near enough to hear the
alarm you can then turn it off (after peeping inside to see if it is 'done')
We have a kiln controller that turns off our main kiln once it has reached
the temperature needed but it was fairly pricey.
But you can always hover near the kiln and have a look inside when the temp
is about right and switch it off.  Even with our fancy computer controlled
paragon we always take a peek, as glass does not always react at the
expected temps!
For a week or so recently I had to use our small enamelling kiln without
even a pyrometer - it got dropped - and got quite good at judging by the
look of the glass when to stop it.  But I did get fed up with having to sit
peering through the peephole wearing kiln glasses when it started to
approach fusing temps!

Regards
EliZabeth in Bournemouth
http://www.stainedglass.co.uk
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From owner-glass Thu Aug 17 16:00:58 2000
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	id <m13PYCo-0000Nma@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Thu, 17 Aug 2000 15:32:10 -0700 (PDT)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #401 built 2000-Aug-17)
X-Path: stainedglass.co.uk!studio
From: "studio@stainedglass.co.uk" <studio@stainedglass.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: RE: circles with Morton
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2000 22:21:43 +0100
Message-ID: <3.0.5.32.20000817222143.007b14c0@mailhost.stainedglass.co.uk>
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Precedence: bulk

At 10:12 17/08/00 -0700, Dave wrote:
>  The MGS doesn't cut circles.

But if you want circles from about 3/4 inch to 6 inches diameter you can
use the teeny turn with the circle guide gadget - these work on either of
the Morton surfaces.

Since getting the Morton system stuff for sale a year ago I am still
impressed with its usefulness - just wish it had been available here years
ago!

The PGS allows even beginners to cut accurate thin strips, mitres and
angled shapes like trapezoids sooo easily compared with using a cutting
square or ruler and measuring.  With the cutting bar held securely in
position they can concentrate on getting their cutting technique correct.

And using the circle guide and teeny turn I had a whole class of 12
students on their second 2-hour session each cutting and breaking small and
larger circles without one failure!

Though as others have said - for larger circles you cant beat the Glastar
strip/circle cutter.

Regards
EliZabeth in Bournemouth
http://www.stainedglass.co.uk
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From owner-glass Thu Aug 17 22:31:34 2000
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From: "Shakeel Abedi" <shakabe@pd.jaring.my>
To: "Connie's Creations" <conniescreations@hotmail.com>, <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Looking for Spectrum limited edition postcard
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2000 10:08:00 +0800
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Dear Connie

The postcard that you are asking for is probably "Boldly Going" by Michael
Kennedy Studios.
You can still find a picture on Spectrum site if click on the "Gallery" and
look for Boldy Going there.

Or you could follow this link:
http://www.spectrumglass.com/Gallery/GallDocs/BoldlyGoing.html

In case it is a postcard that you still want, I probably have a few stashed
away somewhere. Send me your snail mail adn you will have it in a week.

Shakeel Abedi
Secretary - International Guild of Glass Artists, Inc. (www.igga.org)
shakabe@pd.jaring.my

----- Original Message -----
From: "Connie's Creations" <conniescreations@hotmail.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 17, 2000 3:51 AM
Subject: Looking for Spectrum limited edition postcard


> Hi all,
>
> I am looking for one of the limited edition postcards from
> Spectrum that is of a man going through a door. Spectrum
> no longer has any of these.
>
> Does anybody have one or could they scan one and send it
> to me as a jpeg or do they know where I could get one possibly?
>
> Connie Bartel
> conniescreations@hotmail.com
> blueheron59@email.msn.com
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com
>
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>

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From owner-glass Fri Aug 18 07:38:34 2000
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Are KILN GLASSES expensive?
- someone here told me I could use a pair of good UV sunglasses
I am just curious - what sort of times are we talking
like max & min

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From owner-glass Fri Aug 18 08:33:17 2000
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when I was talking time - I am speaking of firing times in the KILN

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From owner-glass Fri Aug 18 09:02:08 2000
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In a message dated 8/18/00 7:39:58 AM Pacific Daylight Time, 
Patty.McMaster@fbol.com writes:

> Are KILN GLASSES expensive?
> - someone here told me I could use a pair of good UV sunglasses
> I am just curious - what sort of times are we talking
> like max & min
>  
Go to: http://www.warmglass.com for a truck load of info.

Cheers, Bob in 9 2 0 2 6
Learn from the mistakes of others. You can't live long enough to make them 
all yourself.
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From owner-glass Fri Aug 18 13:58:29 2000
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From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@alpha.nad.adelphia.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: are kiln glasses expensive?
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@pop.nad.adelphia.net>
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 15:20:16 +0000
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> Are KILN GLASSES expensive?
> - someone here told me I could use a pair of good UV sunglasses I am
> just curious - what sort of times are we talking like max & min


On the one hand, they might be considered expensive at (about) $175 
and up per pair. On the other hand, what's the cost of replacing 
one's vision? "Priceless," as they say in the American Express ads.

Good UV sunglasses will *not provide the protection you need, but you 
will save money.

You should take a look at http://auralens.com/ for the low-down on 
the subject. Okay, so they sell the protective glasses, but they also 
know what they're talking about and if you buy from someone else, 
they'll almost certainly be one of Auralens' dealers.

Hope this is helpful.

Albert
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From owner-glass Fri Aug 18 16:06:14 2000
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To: "Craig Holloway" <cholloway@mindspring.com>, <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Help!
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2000 17:37:05 -0400
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Hi Craig,

    I live in Hoschton (near Chateau Elan).  I'm a member of the Atlanta
Glass Guild, and I'll be happy to let you know when the next meeting is
(hasn't been decided yet), and you are welcome to come and meet lots of
glass people.

Jerri
www.beadbimbo.com





Subject: Help!


> Hi all!
>         Any thoughts on which strip cutter to buy? By-The-Way anyone in
the
> Dacula, GA area who would like to get together to talk glass? I am also
> looking for a copy of an artical in "Fast Break #13" from Uroboros. The
> artical was by Patrice Lampton on using textured glass, it was part one of
> two. If anyone can email me a copy of the artical or tell me hoe to get in
> touch with Ms. Lampton I would be most happy.
> Craig
>
> ----
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From owner-glass Sat Aug 19 13:02:11 2000
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Warm Greetings From ShopConsciously.com

A visitor to ShopConsciously.com has asked us to invite you 
to sell your artwork and crafts on our site.

ShopConsciously.com is a unique collective of artists, artisans,
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From owner-glass Mon Aug 21 01:07:03 2000
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From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Patty.McMaster@fbol.com
Subject: Re: Kilns
Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2000 08:48:32 +0100
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Patty,
        I see that you haven't had many replies to your questions yet,
so I will add my comments.
        A kiln sitter is a device that switches off the power to the
kiln when a pre-set temperature is achieved.  It is generally inadequate
for fusing and slumping work.  The cases where it is adequate is where
no hold at the top temperature is required, AND the kiln's natural
cooling rate is relatively slow through the annealing range of 600 to
490 degrees Celsius, AND the pieces are relatively small (say 6 inches
in diameter or less) or not thick.  So you can get by with a kiln
sitter, but in certain circumstances only.
        A pyrometer is a must in my view.  You need to know the
temperatures that things happen at to be able to reproduce the results
and the pyrometer gives you the temperature of the kiln chamber at the
level and area in which the pyrometer probe is placed.  Yes, the
pyrometer does not adjust the temperature, but it gives the information
to allow you to adjust the controls to make the temperature changes.
        Most kilns have a variable control, often in graduations from 1
to 100.  These numbers indicate the percent of the time that the kiln
puts power into the elements, which in turn controls the rate of ascent
or descent of the temperature.  You need to experiment with these
controls, recording the temperatures at, say 15 minute, intervals at
various settings.  So you might see what 100%, 75%, 50% will produce at
the start, and a different range for cooling - say 60%, 40% 30%.  
        You will also find that different power inputs will produce
different results at different points of the heating and cooling cycle.
So you will find that you may need only 50% at the start to achieve a
300 degree C rise in temp, but as you reach 500 deg. C you may need &5%
or even 100% to achieve a 500 deg. C rise (all temps are given per hour,
but is you are watching the pyrometer, you will need to change these to
deg. per minute: so 300 per hour is 300 divided by 60 mins equals 5 deg.
per minute, or 85 deg. per 15 min. observation period)
        (by the way conversion from deg. C to deg. F is as follows:
divide deg. C by 5, multiply the result by 9 and add 32.  E.G., 100C is
divided by 5 giving 20, this is multiplied by 9 giving 180, add 32 (the
F temperature of freezing) and you get 212 - the boiling point of water)
        You will have to keep records of the temperature observations so
you can reproduce the rate of change you want.  After a few trials and
some early experiments with glass, you will get a much better feel for
the way to alter the controls to get the temperature change you want.
        If your kiln (as one of mine) has simpler controls, such as
"off, low, med, high" you may need to switch between the settings to get
the settings you want.  On this one medium will give a temperature rise
in the 100 - 200 deg.C range,  High will give an initial 600 deg C rise,
but it slows at about 500 deg.C to under 200 deg.C per hour.  On the way
down, I can usually just turn the kiln off as the natural cooling rate
is so very slow, the kiln will anneal the glass without any further
power input.  If the glass is thick or it is a large piece, putting the
power setting on low will slow the cooling enough to anneal a 12mm (ca.
1/2 inch) piece.
        So, this brings up another point.  On all kilns, whether they
have a digital controller or not, you need to know the natural cooling
rate.  This means that you have to record the temperature changes at
about 15 minute intervals from the top temperature to about 200 deg.C
with the power off.  Yes, this means that you have to spend a lot of
time with your kiln getting to know it and its little ways, but there is
no short cut to this.  Other ways of finding about your kiln is just to
do it and then cope with the failures, accidents, etc.
        Brad Walker has a book "Contemporary Warm Glass" and a web site
which will give you a great deal of information. Go to:
www.warmglass.com
to find a lot of information.
        As you learn about your kiln, you will have a number of specific
questions that I hope the group can answer.  If what I have said raises
questions rather than giving answers, just ask what I meant on a
specific point and I will try to be more clear.  
        Also let the group know of your successes!

Best wishes
Steve

In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, Patty.McMaster@fbol.com writes
>
>Ssome time ago I asked a question about  a kiln that I used to make
>ceramics in
>
>It was practically new when I purchased it
>
>It has a kiln sitter on it - someone said I would need to get a pyrmeter
>to fire glass in there
>
>Now someone locally - (I am in ST LOUIS MO )
> told me that all the pyrometer is going to do is give me the temperature
>in the kiln
>
>It is not going to allow me to " ADJUST " the temperature
>
>PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!!!
>I really want to FUSE & SLUMP
>
>Thank You,
>Patty
>
>
>----
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-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Mon Aug 21 06:32:25 2000
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Subject: Re: Kilns
Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2000 08:19:45 -0500
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THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!
Obviously, your well-informed about this particular matter.
I have ordered the warmglass book & am awaiting its delivery anyday now
I am ready to fire the glass
I can't wait much longer -   :)
I will let you know what happens after the first firing

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From owner-glass Mon Aug 21 13:40:06 2000
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From: "Longshore, Kevin" <Kevin.Longshore@COMPAQ.com>
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Subject: RE: Gatewayed mail message
Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2000 15:29:56 -0500
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I'm certainly not an expert on fusing, but I remember from my college days
(and way too many days ago that was...) in ceramic class that using UV
sunglasses actually causes more eye damage. They don't block out any of the
infra-red that is causing the eye damage, and your pupil opens wider because
the visible light is cut down by the sunglasses.

Make it a good day.

Kevin

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bobfuses@aol.com [mailto:Bobfuses@aol.com]
> Sent: Friday, August 18, 2000 11:45 AM
> To: Patty.McMaster@fbol.com; glass@bungi.com
> Subject: Re: Gatewayed mail message
> 
> 
> In a message dated 8/18/00 7:39:58 AM Pacific Daylight Time, 
> Patty.McMaster@fbol.com writes:
> 
> > Are KILN GLASSES expensive?
> > - someone here told me I could use a pair of good UV sunglasses
> > I am just curious - what sort of times are we talking
> > like max & min
> >  
> Go to: http://www.warmglass.com for a truck load of info.
> 
> Cheers, Bob in 9 2 0 2 6
> Learn from the mistakes of others. You can't live long enough 
> to make them 
> all yourself.
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> 
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From owner-glass Mon Aug 21 23:31:38 2000
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From: Grant Schultz <Fortschultz@centurytel.net>
To: "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
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Subject: Rookie question...
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 00:26:19 -0500
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--------------F9F8B0F6D741ACD66B0A288D
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Hi my name is Christy and I am addicted to glass.....I think that is how
every one should start !HA!
I have been traditionally a painter and a potter as well as a art
teacher. I had finally said heck with it and took a class in stained
glass and now here I am.... addicted to another art form. Stained Glass
Rules! I have only taken a beginner class on panels-foiling but I am
pretty brave desigining my own projects. I have been sitting back the
last few months taking in all this great info,some I understand and can
use and other stuff I have no clue what is being talked about!:) I'll
figure it out eventually.  I do have a question I am going to post and
try not to feel to stupid about asking...remember I am a rookie.
What do I need to do to the tip of my soldering iron "tin" it? It
does'nt seem to heat evenly all the time or take awhile to melt the
solder. I read something about this a few weeks ago here, but still
was'nt sure what to do. (I did skip my last glass to go on vacation,
maybe I missed this bit of info eh?)
Thanks for any help!
Christy-stained glass groupie (sp?)
P.S. I did try to check the archives-that is a bit confusing and it
reads in weird computer lingo. no matter what I try...

--------------F9F8B0F6D741ACD66B0A288D
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<!doctype html public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en">
<html>
Hi my name is Christy and I am addicted to glass.....I think that is how
every one should start !HA!
<br>I have been traditionally a painter and a potter as well as a art teacher.
I had finally said heck with it and took a class in stained glass and now
here I am.... addicted to another art form. <b>Stained Glass</b> <b>Rules!</b>
I have only taken a beginner class on panels-foiling but I am pretty brave
desigining my own projects. I have been sitting back the last few months
taking in all this great info,some I understand and can use and other stuff
I have no clue what is being talked about!:) I'll&nbsp; figure it out eventually.&nbsp;
I do have a question I am going to post and try not to feel to stupid about
asking...remember I am a rookie.
<br>What do I need to do to the tip of my soldering iron "tin" it? It does'nt
seem to heat evenly all the time or take awhile to melt the solder. I read
something about this a few weeks ago here, but still was'nt sure what to
do. (I did skip my last glass to go on vacation, maybe I missed this bit
of info eh?)
<br>Thanks for any help!
<br>Christy-stained glass groupie (sp?)
<br>P.S. I did try to check the archives-that is a bit confusing and it
reads in weird computer lingo. no matter what I try...</html>

--------------F9F8B0F6D741ACD66B0A288D--

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From owner-glass Tue Aug 22 11:30:55 2000
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From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Looking for Nel Reeves
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 14:07:00 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hi gang.  I'm trying to contact a fused glass artist named
Nel Reeves.  I purchased some lovely enameled work from
her in 1998, but no longer have her correct phone number.  Last known
location was Arlington, VA.  If anyone has a way of contacting
her, please send it to me, as I would like to place another
order.

Christie A. Wood
North Wales, PA USA
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From owner-glass Tue Aug 22 13:01:03 2000
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Grant Schultz <Fortschultz@centurytel.net>
Subject: Re: Rookie question...
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 20:05:21 +0100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk

In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, Grant Schultz
<Fortschultz@centurytel.net> writes
...cut......
>  I do have a question I am going to post and
>try not to feel to stupid about asking...remember I am a rookie.
>What do I need to do to the tip of my soldering iron "tin" it? It
>does'nt seem to heat evenly all the time or take awhile to melt the
>solder. I read something about this a few weeks ago here, but still
>was'nt sure what to do. (I did skip my last glass to go on vacation,
>maybe I missed this bit of info eh?)

The tip of the soldering iron often gets "dirty" which insulates the
tip's heat from the solder and the material to be soldered.  The best
indicators are if the solder does not flow across the whole tip, but
beads up, or does not even stay on the tip; the other is that there are
black spots or pits on the tip. 
Two ways I have of altering this, both require the iron to be hot.
        With the iron hot, use a brass wire brush to get off the dirt
and accumulation of  material.  Then apply a touch of flux and melt
solder onto the tip.  It should spread across the whole bit.  If it
doesn't, gently brush the tip with a steel wire brush, and repeat the
tinning process as above.
        The second way is to use a sal amoniac block.  Again the iron
needs to be hot.  Rub the flat side of the bit on the block until the
block begins to smoke.  You will observe that there is a black residue
being left on the block - this is the sticky "dirt" coming off the tip.
Do the other side too. Add a little solder to the upper side of the tip
and turn over to rub it between block and tip.  Now look at it, and you
should see the solder spread over the tip.  If not repeat.  For really
difficult occasions, use the brass wire brush.

Best wishes.

Steve
-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Tue Aug 22 15:00:53 2000
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X-Path: home.net!esavad
From: "Mike Savad" <esavad@home.net>
To: "Grant Schultz" <Fortschultz@centurytel.net>,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE: Rookie question...
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 17:43:59 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

go to my tips section - under tool maintence. i believe i stuck info on tip
tinning in there.


---Mike Savad


Mike's Stained Glass - Tips Tricks Photos
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
4-6-2000 New Pages Added: 1 new tip page: Help buying stained glass, updated
info on the about me page, and 3 window set's for skycity. Including lot's
of new links, and more FREE PATTERN links.



> -----Original Message-----
> From: Grant Schultz [mailto:Fortschultz@centurytel.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2000 1:26 AM
> To: glass@bungi.com
> Subject: Rookie question...
>
>
>
> --------------F9F8B0F6D741ACD66B0A288D
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
>
> Hi my name is Christy and I am addicted to glass.....I think that is how
> every one should start !HA!
> I have been traditionally a painter and a potter as well as a art
> teacher. I had finally said heck with it and took a class in stained
> glass and now here I am.... addicted to another art form. Stained Glass
> Rules! I have only taken a beginner class on panels-foiling but I am
> pretty brave desigining my own projects. I have been sitting back the
> last few months taking in all this great info,some I understand and can
> use and other stuff I have no clue what is being talked about!:) I'll
> figure it out eventually.  I do have a question I am going to post and
> try not to feel to stupid about asking...remember I am a rookie.
> What do I need to do to the tip of my soldering iron "tin" it? It
> does'nt seem to heat evenly all the time or take awhile to melt the
> solder. I read something about this a few weeks ago here, but still
> was'nt sure what to do. (I did skip my last glass to go on vacation,
> maybe I missed this bit of info eh?)
> Thanks for any help!
> Christy-stained glass groupie (sp?)
> P.S. I did try to check the archives-that is a bit confusing and it
> reads in weird computer lingo. no matter what I try...
>
> --------------F9F8B0F6D741ACD66B0A288D
> Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
>
> <!doctype html public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en">
> <html>
> Hi my name is Christy and I am addicted to glass.....I think that is how
> every one should start !HA!
> <br>I have been traditionally a painter and a potter as well as a
> art teacher.
> I had finally said heck with it and took a class in stained glass and now
> here I am.... addicted to another art form. <b>Stained Glass</b>
> <b>Rules!</b>
> I have only taken a beginner class on panels-foiling but I am pretty brave
> desigining my own projects. I have been sitting back the last few months
> taking in all this great info,some I understand and can use and
> other stuff
> I have no clue what is being talked about!:) I'll&nbsp; figure it
> out eventually.&nbsp;
> I do have a question I am going to post and try not to feel to
> stupid about
> asking...remember I am a rookie.
> <br>What do I need to do to the tip of my soldering iron "tin"
> it? It does'nt
> seem to heat evenly all the time or take awhile to melt the solder. I read
> something about this a few weeks ago here, but still was'nt sure what to
> do. (I did skip my last glass to go on vacation, maybe I missed this bit
> of info eh?)
> <br>Thanks for any help!
> <br>Christy-stained glass groupie (sp?)
> <br>P.S. I did try to check the archives-that is a bit confusing and it
> reads in weird computer lingo. no matter what I try...</html>
>
> --------------F9F8B0F6D741ACD66B0A288D--
>
> ----
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> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>

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From owner-glass Wed Aug 23 13:19:18 2000
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From owner-glass Wed Aug 23 13:30:44 2000
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From owner-glass Wed Aug 23 13:48:06 2000
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X-Path: compaq.com!kevin.longshore
From: "Longshore, Kevin" <Kevin.Longshore@COMPAQ.com>
To: glass@bungi.com, hotglass@list.bb.net
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Longevity of enamels in glass painting?
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 12:39:43 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

What is the difference between 'traditional' glass paints and enamels that
the paints are considered permanent but the enamels aren't? 

Have there been advances in enamel manufacture in the 20 years since Albinas
Elskus' book that enamels are permanent now? Can anyone describe personal
experiences with the (im)permanance of modern enamels? 

I like the extra colours available with enamels vs traditional glass paints,
but hate the idea of my work self-destructing 10 years from now. And the
kiln I have available to me isn't/can't be set up for annealing, so I assume
fusing coloured glass or frit is not an option. 

Thanks for the information! 

Make it a good day.
Kevin 

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From owner-glass Wed Aug 23 14:48:59 2000
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: "Longshore, Kevin" <Kevin.Longshore@COMPAQ.com>
Subject: Re: Longevity of enamels in glass painting?
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 22:37:14 +0100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk

Kevin,
        It isn't so much the formulation of the enamels, but the
temperatures at which they fire that makes for impermanence of the
enamel fired onto the glass.  Many enamels fire at a point below the
softening point of a number of glasses.  This means that the pigment is
not so well absorbed into the structure of the base glass.  Also the
fluxes used in the low firing enamels are often borax based, and so are
water soluble.  These two factors lead to a shorter life than the
vitreous paints.  Still, I have seen enamels that have been scrubbed for
90 years by window cleaners, that are only slightly damaged (Many others
that are almost unreadable, though).
        An alternative is to use the high firing enamels available from
Reusche or Degussa, or even some of the glass and on glaze enamels
intended for ceramics glazes.  These often fire in the range of 650 to
700 deg. Celsius.  Some of them are very good and transparent, others
are much more opaque and even cloudy, so you need to experiment.

        I am curious about your statement that the available kiln is not
/ can not be set up for annealing.  I don't see why not.  All you need
to do is to arrest the cooling process at the appropriate temperature to
allow the glass to anneal.  If you are using a ceramics kiln, it is
probable that it will retain enough heat and loose it slowly enough for
you to anneal all but the largest and thickest pieces of glass.
        In any case, you need to anneal the painted glass that has gone
above the annealing point of the base glass.  With small pieces this
happens quickly enough for it to be uncritical.  For larger pieces of
glass it does become critical.  E.g., I found a piece of glass about 12"
by 15" was full of stresses, because it had not had long enough at the
annealing temperature.  It looked fine, but when put between polarising
filters, it showed a lot of stress was present.  The piece, put back
into the kiln, reheated, and cooled at the annealing point, was relieved
of the stress.
        Look at the natural cooling rate of the kiln (if you want ways
of determining this, let me know).  This will tell you if the kiln cools
too rapidly at the critical annealing range.  Usually, a cooling rate of
60 deg. Celsius per hour is slow enough. ( That is about 2 deg. F per
minute).  Faster than that and you may need to put some heat into the
kiln to slow the rate of cooling.
        I don't see why you can't try frit under the same conditions as
for annealing painted glass.

Steve
 
In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, Longshore, Kevin
<Kevin.Longshore@COMPAQ.com> writes
>What is the difference between 'traditional' glass paints and enamels that
>the paints are considered permanent but the enamels aren't? 
>
>Have there been advances in enamel manufacture in the 20 years since Albinas
>Elskus' book that enamels are permanent now? Can anyone describe personal
>experiences with the (im)permanance of modern enamels? 
>
>I like the extra colours available with enamels vs traditional glass paints,
>but hate the idea of my work self-destructing 10 years from now. And the
>kiln I have available to me isn't/can't be set up for annealing, so I assume
>fusing coloured glass or frit is not an option. 
>
>Thanks for the information! 
>
>Make it a good day.
>Kevin 
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Wed Aug 23 19:47:37 2000
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X-Path: ix.netcom.com!gunnx4
From: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@ix.netcom.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
Subject: old windows
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 21:18:09 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Well...old compared to me.

Anyone have any info on glass artists that were doing triple glazing
in/around 1906?

Suzanne
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From owner-glass Wed Aug 23 22:52:41 2000
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X-Path: bright.net!arasai
From: "Sarah" <arasai@bright.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Tip Tinning
Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2000 00:52:16 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Clear Day    I have a very tiny tin of "Tip Tinner" right by my soldering
iron stand, and when I'm in the middle of a project, I just run my iron tip
over the tinner once or twice, it works beautifully! Before I turn my iron
off for the day, I give it a good cleaning with Sal Ammoniac, and tin it,
like Steve and Mike both mention.
    I believe I got the Tip Tinner from Warner-Crivellaro, for around $6.00.
    Good luck on all of your projects!
Sarah

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From owner-glass Sat Aug 26 11:43:14 2000
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From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: HELP!  I Broke My Favorite Lamp
Date: Sat, 26 Aug 2000 14:32:04 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Dear Bungians,

I received a distress call from a lady via the IGGA link to the Martha
Stewart website.
This lady broke a small ballerina table lamp....I'm not sure, but I think=

it might be
some flamework thing at the base of the lamp.  She sent a couple of .bmp
files taken
with digital camera along...but I can't open them to view them using my
antiquated
version of Compuserve.  They are in UUEncoded format.  If anyone here can=

view them, or if anyone is interest in repairing this, I'll email you the=

original
email from Ms. Mills.

Message text written by "drmills"
>Thank  you so much for your phone call regarding my lastest accident wit=
h
my
little lady lamp....Any help will be appreciated...Thank You.  Debra R.
Mills at 9527 Hidden Oak Way  Knoxville, Tn.  37922  If you have any
questions please call 865-670-2928.<

----
Christie A. Wood
North Wales, PA USA
----
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From owner-glass Sun Aug 27 05:28:35 2000
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X-Path: ukonline.co.uk!mike.magic
From: "Mike" <mike.magic@ukonline.co.uk>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: Glasswork
Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2000 12:46:19 +0100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_00C3_01C01024.CC2AD4C0
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hi=20

Please excuse my writing to you but I saw your address on a Q&A listing =
about foil glass work and wondered if you wantred to chat about the =
work.  Not sure how it works but imagine that you are the page owner.

How do i go about joining in the chat?  As you can see from my e-mail =
address, I am not in the States.  I live in the Isle of Man which is a =
small island in the Irish Sea.

I make the odd foil glass items and sell some in exhibitions round the =
Island but have never gone full out for it.  I make boxes, self standing =
suncatchers and photo frames.

Hope to hear from you soon.

Best wishes

Mike


------=_NextPart_000_00C3_01C01024.CC2AD4C0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3500" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>
<DIV>
<P><FONT color=3D#000080 face=3D"Bookman Old Style" size=3D3>Hi =
</FONT></P>
<P><FONT color=3D#000080 face=3D"Bookman Old Style" size=3D3>Please =
excuse my writing=20
to you but I saw your address on a Q&amp;A listing about foil glass work =
and=20
wondered if you wantred to chat about the work.&nbsp; Not sure how it =
works but=20
imagine that you are the page owner.</FONT></P>
<P><FONT color=3D#000080 face=3D"Bookman Old Style" size=3D3>How do i go =
about joining=20
in the chat?&nbsp; </FONT><FONT color=3D#000080 face=3D"Bookman Old =
Style" size=3D3>As=20
you can see from my e-mail address, I am not in the States.&nbsp; I live =
in the=20
Isle of Man which is a small&nbsp;island in the Irish Sea.</FONT></P>
<P><FONT color=3D#000080 face=3D"Bookman Old Style" size=3D3>I make the =
odd foil glass=20
items and sell some in exhibitions round the Island but have never gone =
full out=20
for it.&nbsp; I make boxes, self standing suncatchers and&nbsp;photo=20
frames.</FONT></P>
<P><FONT color=3D#000080 face=3D"Bookman Old Style" size=3D3>Hope to =
hear from you=20
soon.</FONT></P>
<P><FONT color=3D#000080 face=3D"Bookman Old Style" size=3D3>Best =
wishes</FONT></P>
<P><FONT color=3D#000080 face=3D"Bookman Old Style"=20
size=3D3>Mike</FONT></P></DIV></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_00C3_01C01024.CC2AD4C0--

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From owner-glass Sun Aug 27 19:02:10 2000
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X-Path: iconn.net!tbyrnes
From: Tim Byrnes <tbyrnes@iconn.net>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Where's the mail
Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2000 21:33:47 -0400
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Hi Folks,
Have I been removed from the list, I have not received many messages in
the last week or so.
Please advise.
Tim Byrnes

--


 Live easy, but think first.

 -- anonymous


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From owner-glass Sun Aug 27 23:00:50 2000
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From: "Candy" <candy@ghostman.com>
To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>, "Tim Byrnes" <tbyrnes@iconn.net>
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Subject: Re: Where's the mail
Date: Sun, 27 Aug 00 21:19:39 
Message-ID: <200008280322.VAA17458@mantis.privatei.com>
Precedence: bulk

Tim,

I haven't been getting much from anyone on the net this weekend.. Tis just quiet I 
guess.. I got yours tho!

Candy

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From owner-glass Mon Aug 28 06:58:14 2000
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Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 05:43:32 -0500
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    Everyone must be relaxing, trying to stay out of the heat.....
have a nice day

Candy wrote:
> 
> Tim,
> 
> I haven't been getting much from anyone on the net this weekend.. Tis just quiet I
> guess.. I got yours tho!
> 
> Candy
> 
> ----
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From owner-glass Mon Aug 28 18:24:39 2000
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From: "cheryl zipf" <glassgirl@mindspring.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: HELP!!!
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 21:13:34 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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I NEED TO FIND SOMETHING FOR COPPER JOINTS AFTER USING COPPER CAME THAT =
WILL SHINE ON MY SOLDER JOINTS  THANKS GUYS> CHERYL

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<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I NEED TO FIND SOMETHING FOR COPPER =
JOINTS AFTER=20
USING COPPER CAME THAT WILL SHINE ON MY SOLDER JOINTS&nbsp; THANKS =
GUYS&gt;=20
CHERYL</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-glass Mon Aug 28 18:58:58 2000
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X-Path: island.net!seaspray
From: "synergy glass" <seaspray@island.net>
To: "cheryl zipf" <glassgirl@mindspring.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: HELP!!!
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 18:54:25 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Cheryl...

Try some of the metallic paints available at your paint store.  I've done a
lot of research into brass paints and use General Paint's brass spray
coating.  It is much more durable during cleaning than the little gold paint
pens available at s.g. stores.  They tend to rub off after 6 months or so (I
tested them on a mirror in my bathroom which is cleaned frequently.

Maybe General Paint makes a copper spray bomb also, or perhaps you'll find
another brand you like

Carol Swann
Synergy Glass & Creative
www.igga.org/synergy
seaspray@island.net

You might have to experiment with a couple of

I shake the spray bomb, spray a little out into a plastic dish and paint
from that onto the joints...2 coats and voila...solder joints are covered.
-----Original Message-----
From: cheryl zipf <glassgirl@mindspring.com>
To: glass@bungi.com <glass@bungi.com>
Date: Monday, August 28, 2000 6:36 PM
Subject: HELP!!!


>This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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>
>I NEED TO FIND SOMETHING FOR COPPER JOINTS AFTER USING COPPER CAME THAT =
>WILL SHINE ON MY SOLDER JOINTS  THANKS GUYS> CHERYL
>
>------=_NextPart_000_0043_01C01134.D3259100
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>JOINTS AFTER=20
>USING COPPER CAME THAT WILL SHINE ON MY SOLDER JOINTS&nbsp; THANKS =
>GUYS&gt;=20
>CHERYL</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
>
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From owner-glass Mon Aug 28 21:01:13 2000
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X-Path: aol.com!Beveler4
From: Beveler4@aol.com
To: mike.magic@ukonline.co.uk
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: Glasswork
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 23:40:21 EDT
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hello Mike,
You are among a growing group of Uk people that are bungians.There are more 
of you than you might think. Hang in there for awhile things are a little 
slow on bungi right now, but they will pick up in the next couple of weeks or 
so.Bungi is not a live chat group but more of a question answer group you ask 
we answer. Sometimes you get lots of answers sometimes not so many. And you 
will definetly get some strong opinions on how or what is the right or wrong 
way to approach a problem.And then it is up to you to take it from there.Good 
Luck!
Beveler4 (Stan)
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From owner-glass Mon Aug 28 21:37:55 2000
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X-Path: asbuilt.com!pcz
From: "Zicarelli, Philip" <pcz@asbuilt.com>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Making a window
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 07:50:31 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk


I am making some entryway windows and have a question. 

The rough size of the opening is 21-3/8 " x 39 - 3/4" the size inside the
trim is 20-3/4" x 38-7//8". 

The question is do you build up the edge so the glass starts inside the
trim? 

If so what do you use to build up the edges? 

If you don't, how do you handle the different thickness glass along the
edges?

Thanks.
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From owner-glass Tue Aug 29 02:31:31 2000
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From: "Art For All" <art.forall@iofm.net>
To: "Art" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: Cracked Lids
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 09:32:52 +0100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Hi Folks

A query, I have had problems when making flat lids for boxes, with the =
glass cracking when soldering the brass hinge tube on.  The problem =
seems to arise when making a decent clean bead of solder between the =
foiled edge of the=20
glass and the tube.

I make my hinges from brass tubing soldered to the back edge of the box =
lid and "L" shaped piano wire pieces soldered into the back joints of =
the box itself.

The problem does not always arise but seems to on the nicest ones, that =
well known law no doubt.  Sometimes it is only apparent that the glass =
has cracked when cleaning up the lid in preparation for patinating the =
solder.

Any ideas or tips?

Mike
Ramsey, Isle of Man.

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</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Hi Folks</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>A query, I have had problems when =
making flat lids=20
for boxes, with the&nbsp;glass cracking when soldering the brass hinge =
tube=20
on.&nbsp; The problem seems to arise when making a decent clean bead of =
solder=20
between the foiled edge of the&nbsp;</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>glass and the tube.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I make my hinges from brass tubing =
soldered to the=20
back edge of the box lid and "L" shaped piano wire pieces soldered into =
the back=20
joints of the box itself.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>The problem does not always arise but =
seems to on=20
the nicest ones, that well known law no doubt.&nbsp; Sometimes it is =
only=20
apparent that the glass has cracked when cleaning up the lid in =
preparation for=20
patinating the solder.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Any ideas or tips?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Mike</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Ramsey, Isle of =
Man.</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-glass Tue Aug 29 03:33:32 2000
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X-Path: bham.ac.uk!b.s.jones
From: "Jones B.S." <b.s.jones@bham.ac.uk>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: two new panels
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 11:23:25 +0100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hi all,
Had to give up the glass for a while due to illness during the winter but
after suffering strong withdrawal symptoms I have done several new panels
this summer.
If any body is interested here are two of them

http://www.eee.bham.ac.uk/joness/catbuck.htm

http://www.eee.bham.ac.uk/joness/bighorn.htm

Enjoy..


Brandon S. Jones
(UK)

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From owner-glass Tue Aug 29 11:01:02 2000
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X-Path: pop3.nildram.co.uk!glass
From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: "Art For All" <art.forall@iofm.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Cracked Lids
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 18:35:12 +0100
Message-ID: <200008291649.e7TGnBa03134@mercury.nildram.co.uk>
Precedence: bulk


Hello Mike, et al.

This is a new one for me...
I wonder if you are using too hot an iron?
When my students venture into c/f, they invariably make boxes as 
a first object (and a second one,....and a third one as a present for 
someone).

I have not come across cracked glass before. The only explanation 
I can think of is the temperature of the iron, or temperature 
shocks.... OR.... perhaps..... an already existing miniscule crack, 
caused during initial cutting, which then "travels" when you apply 
the iron.
I too will be interested in hearing what other folks have to offer on 
this subject.
Where do you get your tubes from??
Best Regards
Elisabeth 'n Toby in UK


Mike Ramsey in I-o-M, UK wrote:
Hi Folks

A query, I have had problems when making flat lids for boxes, with the =
glass cracking when soldering the brass hinge tube on.  The problem =
seems to arise when making a decent clean bead of solder between the =
foiled edge of the=20
glass and the tube.

I make my hinges from brass tubing soldered to the back edge of the box =
lid and "L" shaped piano wire pieces soldered into the back joints of =
the box itself.

The problem does not always arise but seems to on the nicest ones, that =
well known law no doubt.  Sometimes it is only apparent that the glass =
has cracked when cleaning up the lid in preparation for patinating the =
solder.

Any ideas or tips?




----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
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From owner-glass Tue Aug 29 14:01:48 2000
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: "Zicarelli, Philip" <pcz@asbuilt.com>
Subject: Re: Making a window
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 20:47:48 +0100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk

Philip
I've some questions to help me answer yours.

In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, Zicarelli, Philip <pcz@asbuilt.com>
writes
>
>I am making some entryway windows and have a question. 
>
A preliminary question: are you working in copperfoil, leaded glass,
fused glass, etched glass, bevels, etc.?

>The rough size of the opening is 21-3/8 " x 39 - 3/4" the size inside the
>trim is 20-3/4" x 38-7//8". 
>
>The question is do you build up the edge so the glass starts inside the
>trim? 
Are you going to replace the existing glass?
Are you going to place the new inside the existing glass?

>
>If so what do you use to build up the edges? 
>
I don't understand "build up" in relation to edges.
If you mean "extend" then I can offer some opinions.  I work in leaded
glass so some of my assumptions may be presumptuous, but then you will
need to query them.  I use 1/2 inch lead came at the edge of most of my
panels.  This usually extends deeply enough under the mouldings to
present only a thin line of came to the viewer and so the design does
not get covered by the wooden mouldings.  My preference is to leave a
1/8 inch gap between the edges of the opening to make fitting of the
panel easy.  I also prefer to have a safety glass on the outside, and
install a small air passage between the two panels at the top and the
bottom to allow ventilation to prevent condensation.

>If you don't, how do you handle the different thickness glass along the
>edges?
>
What amount of difference do you have between the glasses? If it is only
a tiny fraction of an inch (even up to 1/8) there is no real problem.
You resort to the traditional method of fitting windows - use putty.  If
you don't like / can't use putty, try butyl or silicone (if you must).
You can also use a spacer between the existing glass and the new panel
to avoid the two touching.

With more specific information, I can give more specific answers.

Best wishes.

Steve

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Tue Aug 29 14:15:40 2000
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Art For All <art.forall@iofm.net>
Subject: Cracked Lids (attn: Ann Baxter)
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 21:09:07 +0100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk

Mike,
        As you seem to know already the cause of the cracking is
probably too much heat in a localised area.  This means work faster, or
cooler, or build the bead on one side only, allowing the piece to cool
somewhat before starting on the other side.  I have tended to use only a
tinning of the brass tube, and then sweat it to the box lid. 
        In addition I have developed a method of placing the tube under
the lid so it is unseen until the box is opened.  It also provides a
rest for the lid, so no chain is needed to keep the lid from falling
back on to the table surface and possibly cracking.
        
(I guess this might be an article for the IGGA Newsletter. What do you
thing Ann?)

Steve

In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, Art For All <art.forall@iofm.net> writes
>This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
>
>------=_NextPart_000_003D_01C0119C.1AE72460
>Content-Type: text/plain;
>       charset="iso-8859-1"
>Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
>
>Hi Folks
>
>A query, I have had problems when making flat lids for boxes, with the =
>glass cracking when soldering the brass hinge tube on.  The problem =
>seems to arise when making a decent clean bead of solder between the =
>foiled edge of the=20
>glass and the tube.
>
>I make my hinges from brass tubing soldered to the back edge of the box =
>lid and "L" shaped piano wire pieces soldered into the back joints of =
>the box itself.
>
>The problem does not always arise but seems to on the nicest ones, that =
>well known law no doubt.  Sometimes it is only apparent that the glass =
>has cracked when cleaning up the lid in preparation for patinating the =
>solder.
>
>Any ideas or tips?
>
>Mike
>Ramsey, Isle of Man.
>
>------=_NextPart_000_003D_01C0119C.1AE72460
>Content-Type: text/html;
>       charset="iso-8859-1"
>Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
>
><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
><HTML><HEAD>
><META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
>http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
><META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3500" name=3DGENERATOR>
><STYLE></STYLE>
></HEAD>
><BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
><DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Hi Folks</FONT></DIV>
><DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
><DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>A query, I have had problems when =
>making flat lids=20
>for boxes, with the&nbsp;glass cracking when soldering the brass hinge =
>tube=20
>on.&nbsp; The problem seems to arise when making a decent clean bead of =
>solder=20
>between the foiled edge of the&nbsp;</FONT></DIV>
><DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>glass and the tube.</FONT></DIV>
><DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
><DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I make my hinges from brass tubing =
>soldered to the=20
>back edge of the box lid and "L" shaped piano wire pieces soldered into =
>the back=20
>joints of the box itself.</FONT></DIV>
><DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
><DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>The problem does not always arise but =
>seems to on=20
>the nicest ones, that well known law no doubt.&nbsp; Sometimes it is =
>only=20
>apparent that the glass has cracked when cleaning up the lid in =
>preparation for=20
>patinating the solder.</FONT></DIV>
><DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
><DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Any ideas or tips?</FONT></DIV>
><DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
><DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Mike</FONT></DIV>
><DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Ramsey, Isle of =
>Man.</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
>
>------=_NextPart_000_003D_01C0119C.1AE72460--
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Tue Aug 29 15:25:15 2000
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X-Path: mail2.nai.net!shad
From: Family Account <shad@mail2.nai.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: returning home
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 17:38:10 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

I hope all of you who went to Glass Visions had a pleasant trip home.

For those of you who didn't, well, you should have seen what Robert Oddy
had to show us this year...He had a tree branch cast in brass yup,
looked like a real branch, it wasn't flat) and had attached to that
glass magnolias, cut out of pinkish drapery glass.  Lovely.

We did sightseeing on the way home....came up through the Delaware Water
Gap.  i confess, I didn't find Dingman's Falls that impressive.  Looked
at stained glass in a couple of craft stores and saw nothing that really
inspired me.  (Some made me cringe....oh, look, all commercial patterns
and that color selection...what's with all the PIGS?...A matter of
taste, I suppose.)

John's unpacked all the goodies, so I have to get back to work.

Dorothy

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From owner-glass Tue Aug 29 16:20:22 2000
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X-Path: pop3.nildram.co.uk!glass
From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: Family Account <shad@mail2.nai.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: returning home
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 23:59:07 +0100
Message-ID: <200008292213.e7TMD2a23098@mercury.nildram.co.uk>
Precedence: bulk

Oh Dorothy,

You fill me with total nostalgia....
How I wish I had been there....with all of you.... seing your 
faces...touching you all... the fun and laughter we had...
And that was LAST year!!
I hope you SUNK a glass for me....
Hope you all had a good time.
Please share!
Elisabeth 'n Toby( ....'n YOUR Godson Meric) in UK


Dorothy  wrote:

I hope all of you who went to Glass Visions had a pleasant trip home.

For those of you who didn't, well, you should have seen what Robert Oddy
had to show us this year...He had a tree branch cast in brass yup,
looked like a real branch, it wasn't flat) and had attached to that
glass magnolias, cut out of pinkish drapery glass.  Lovely.

We did sightseeing on the way home....came up through the Delaware Water
Gap.  i confess, I didn't find Dingman's Falls that impressive.  Looked
at stained glass in a couple of craft stores and saw nothing that really
inspired me.  (Some made me cringe....oh, look, all commercial patterns
and that color selection...what's with all the PIGS?...A matter of
taste, I suppose.)

John's unpacked all the goodies, so I have to get back to work.


----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
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From owner-glass Tue Aug 29 20:49:29 2000
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X-Path: home.net!esavad
From: "Mike Savad" <esavad@home.net>
To: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE: Cracked Lids
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 17:36:11 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<200008291649.e7TGnBa03134@mercury.nildram.co.uk>>
Precedence: bulk


this question slipped by my sensors...

there's too much heat. tack the lid on one side, then the other then the
middle. let it cool. and dab the solder on. what's most likely happening is
that there is a really tiny crack forming where the most heat is. when you
go to clean it, you either:

A. bend the glass a little and let the glass flex a little. or...
B. you may be washing the glass while the glass is still too hot. in which
case it's thermal shock.

it could be a micro fracture, but you'll mostly get those when you groze
alot, which is another good reason for a grinder... :)


---Mike Savad



Mike's Stained Glass - Tips Tricks Photos
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
4-6-2000 New Pages Added: 1 new tip page: Help buying stained glass, updated
info on the about me page, and 3 window set's for skycity. Including lot's
of new links, and more FREE PATTERN links.



> -----Original Message-----
> From: Toby [mailto:toby@northlights.co.uk]
> Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2000 1:35 PM
> To: Art For All
> Subject: Re: Cracked Lids
>
>
>
> Hello Mike, et al.
>
> This is a new one for me...
> I wonder if you are using too hot an iron?
> When my students venture into c/f, they invariably make boxes as
> a first object (and a second one,....and a third one as a present for
> someone).
>
> I have not come across cracked glass before. The only explanation
> I can think of is the temperature of the iron, or temperature
> shocks.... OR.... perhaps..... an already existing miniscule crack,
> caused during initial cutting, which then "travels" when you apply
> the iron.
> I too will be interested in hearing what other folks have to offer on
> this subject.
> Where do you get your tubes from??
> Best Regards
> Elisabeth 'n Toby in UK
>
>
> Mike Ramsey in I-o-M, UK wrote:
> Hi Folks
>
> A query, I have had problems when making flat lids for boxes, with the =
> glass cracking when soldering the brass hinge tube on.  The problem =
> seems to arise when making a decent clean bead of solder between the =
> foiled edge of the=20
> glass and the tube.
>
> I make my hinges from brass tubing soldered to the back edge of the box =
> lid and "L" shaped piano wire pieces soldered into the back joints of =
> the box itself.
>
> The problem does not always arise but seems to on the nicest ones, that =
> well known law no doubt.  Sometimes it is only apparent that the glass =
> has cracked when cleaning up the lid in preparation for patinating the =
> solder.
>
> Any ideas or tips?
>
>
>
>
> ----
> As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
> North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
> http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm
> ----
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

----
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From owner-glass Tue Aug 29 21:52:35 2000
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X-Path: aol.com!Bobfuses
From: Bobfuses@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: Cracked Lids
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 00:37:10 EDT
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

I believe the problem with cracking is caused by to much heat with the brass 
tube conducting it. Let the work go cold between soldering passes.

If you place the work on a very damp cloth the water will conduct the heat 
away very nicely. I have never cracked a piece of glass when soldering on a 
damp cloth.

Cheers, Bob in 9 2 0 2 6
Learn from the mistakes of others. You can't live long enough to make them 
all yourself.
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From owner-glass Wed Aug 30 00:32:06 2000
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X-Path: worldnet.att.net!Moya-Don
From: "D. ONeal" <Moya-Don@worldnet.att.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Cracked Lids
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 00:35:38 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Mike,
    One trick you might want to try is to have a damp towel under your lid
as you solder the hinge in place.  It will help keep the glass cooler.  You
have to be really careful to not leave the iron in one place too long.
Remember that the brass conducts heat and will cool slower than the glass,
thus glass will crack easier.
    Good Luck!
Moya

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From owner-glass Wed Aug 30 10:18:04 2000
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From: "Stallings JL (Jeanne)" <stallijl@ucarb.com>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: updates?
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 12:47:49 -0400
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This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand
this format, some or all of this message may not be legible.

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Hello!
I'm a new viewer to the site & have a couple of questions.  I joined Listbot
& checked the archives, but everything was dated 1999 or previous.  None of
the classes I checked were for 2000 either.  I sent an inquiry but it was
returned as undeliverable.  Is there an alternate website?  Has this one
been abandoned?  Help!!

Thanks a bunch!

Jeanne

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<P><FONT COLOR=3D"#008080" SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Comic Sans =
MS">Hello!</FONT>
<BR><FONT COLOR=3D"#008080" SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Comic Sans MS">I'm a new =
viewer to the site &amp; have a couple of questions.&nbsp; I joined =
Listbot &amp; checked the archives, but everything was dated 1999 or =
previous.&nbsp; None of the classes I checked were for 2000 =
either.&nbsp; I sent an inquiry but it was returned as =
undeliverable.&nbsp; Is there an alternate website?&nbsp; Has this one =
been abandoned?&nbsp; Help!!</FONT></P>

<P><FONT COLOR=3D"#008080" SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Comic Sans MS">Thanks a =
bunch!</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT COLOR=3D"#008080" SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Comic Sans =
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From owner-glass Wed Aug 30 12:21:28 2000
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From: "Elaine" <wmagdycz@massed.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: Re: hinge tube method
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 14:13:28 -0400
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Steve,
Can you possibly explain how you do this, or is it too long for this =
list? Thanks. Elaine
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Steve Richard=20
  To: Art For All=20
  Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2000 4:09 PM
  Subject: Cracked Lids (attn: Ann Baxter)


  In addition I have developed a method of placing the tube under
  the lid so it is unseen until the box is opened.  It also provides a
  rest for the lid, so no chain is needed to keep the lid from falling
  back on to the table surface and possibly cracking.
  Steve

  ----
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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000080 size=3D2>Steve,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000080 size=3D2>Can you possibly explain how you do =
this, or is=20
it too long for this list? Thanks. Elaine</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000080 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A href=3D"mailto:s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk"=20
  title=3Ds.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>Steve Richard</A> =
</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
href=3D"mailto:art.forall@iofm.net"=20
  title=3Dart.forall@iofm.net>Art For All</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, August 29, 2000 =
4:09=20
  PM</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Cracked Lids (attn: =
Ann=20
  Baxter)</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV>In addition I have developed a method of placing the =
tube=20
  under<BR>the lid so it is unseen until the box is opened.&nbsp; It =
also=20
  provides a<BR>rest for the lid, so no chain is needed to keep the lid =
from=20
  falling<BR>back on to the table surface and possibly=20
  cracking.<BR>Steve<BR><BR>----<BR>For subscription changes, please =
mail to: <A=20
  =
href=3D"mailto:glass-request@bungi.com">glass-request@bungi.com</A><BR>To=
 send=20
  to the list,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; please mail to: <A=20
  href=3D"mailto:glass@bungi.com">glass@bungi.com</A><BR>Archives =
available at <A=20
  =
href=3D"http://www.bungi.com/glass">http://www.bungi.com/glass</A><BR></B=
LOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-glass Wed Aug 30 18:02:23 2000
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X-Path: yahoo.com!n_carnes
From: N Carnes <n_carnes@yahoo.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Empty Emails
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 15:53:33 -0700 (PDT)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hello everyone,

I'm fairly new to Bungi.  It's been interesting
reading up on a new hobby that I really love. 
However, I am perplexed by some emails that has a
subject line and has no information on them.  What
seems to be the problem?  I have been experiencing
them more & more lately.

Fellow glass lover, Noriko



=====
http://creations-by-noriko.safeshopper.com/

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!
http://mail.yahoo.com/
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From owner-glass Wed Aug 30 20:58:00 2000
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X-Path: erols.com!deethom
From: Dee Thompson <deethom@erols.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: hinge tube method
Date: Sat, 30 Sep 2000 20:33:22 -0400
Message-ID: <3.0.32.20000930203321.00d71804@pop.erols.com>
Precedence: bulk

I'm trying to visualize this as well, and failing.
Dee
>
>  In addition I have developed a method of placing the tube under
>  the lid so it is unseen until the box is opened.  It also provides a
>  rest for the lid, so no chain is needed to keep the lid from falling
>  back on to the table surface and possibly cracking.
>  Steve
>
>  ---
----
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From owner-glass Thu Aug 31 08:04:07 2000
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X-Path: bright.net!arasai
From: "Sarah" <arasai@bright.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: New Book
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2000 10:46:25 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Clear DayHi Fellow Bungians!
    I am in the process of compiling a new book which will be a "Workbench
Companion" type of book, for glass crafters. The basis for this book will be
a combination "helpful hints" and a troubleshooting guide. I'm writing this
for beginners and advanced crafters alike. I realize that a lot of people
don't have access to the internet, so they don't have the advantage of
getting help like we do here on Bungi.
    If any of you would like to contribute to this manual, you will be
properly credited for your contributions, and I plan to have a studio
listing for any contributors who would like to list their studio name and
information. (A little free advertising...)
    The subjects I am covering are pretty basic to a shop, things like shop
safety, soldering technique/problems, patina tech./problems, repairs on
lamps, panels, 3-D, etc. covering both the copper foil and lead came
methods, and any other tip or problem that anyone has encountered and
resolved. There will have to be a misc. section.
    If you would like to send a contribution, please be sure to include your
name, studio name and such for proper credit. You can send your information
to me by e-mail to arasai@bright.net, or snail-mail to my studio:
White Dove Creations
905 Gray Ave.
Greenville,OH 45331
    If you would like to include pictures or drawings, that would be fine. A
big Thank You in advance to all!!!!
Sarah


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From owner-glass Thu Aug 31 16:02:11 2000
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X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Info on Bridgeport Art Glass Company
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2000 18:56:51 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Fellow bungians....This person is looking for information
(specifically, a catalog) from the old Bridgeport Art Glass
Company out of Bridgeport, CT.  Anyone got a lead on this?

Christie A. Wood - IGGA Exec. Director
North Wales, PA USA
-------------Forwarded Message-----------------
From:	INTERNET:DHLYANKEE@aol.com, INTERNET:DHLYANKEE@aol.com
To:	[unknown], INTERNET:info@igga.org
Date:	08/29/2000 10:42 PM
RE:	IGGA Feedback
 =

TO WHOM IT MAY CONCERN,                                                  =
     =

                                                                     =

                  I AM LOOKING FOR ANY INFORMATION RE. AN OLD ART GLASS C=
O. =

LOCATED IN BRIDGEPORT, CT. I BELIEVE IT HAS BEEN OUT OF BUSINESS FOR MANY=
 =

YEARS. I WAS LUCKY ENOUGH TO SEE A XEROXED COPY OF ONE OF THEIR OLD CATAL=
OGS. =

THE COMPANYS NAME WAS  - BRIDGEPORT ART GLASS CO. LOCATED AT 153 JOHN STR=
EET, =

BRIDGEPORT, CT. THE OWNER WAS JOSEPH HUBERT. I WOULD BE INTERESTED IN =

PURCHASING A COPY OF ANY OF THEIR CATALOGS ( THE ONE I SAW WAS CATALOG #8=
82). =

THE CATALOG WAS COPYRIGHTED IN 1910 BY THE NATIONAL ORNAMENTAL GLASS =

MANUFACTURERS OF THE UNITED STATES. PLEASE HELP ME LOCATE WHAT I AM LOOKI=
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