From owner-glass Wed Mar  1 05:23:24 2000
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From: Skip Hodge <shodge@gdi.net>
To: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@ix.netcom.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: restrip vs. rebar
Date: Wed, 01 Mar 2000 08:11:30 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Hi Susanne

Have you ever used copper reinforced lead?

Basically its the same principal.

When you use rebar, are you using zinc or brass? Are you bending it to
conform to your seems instead of just placeing it straight accross your
panels?

Try the restrip you'll like it.

Skip
Southern Exposure Stained Glass Supply, Inc.
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From owner-glass Wed Mar  1 07:54:30 2000
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X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re:Grinder bits....
Date: Wed, 1 Mar 2000 10:38:24 -0500
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Message text written by INTERNET:AbbieN2Glass@aol.com
>Hi group, I need to get a nice edge on glass pieces that will not be =

soldered....Is there a special bit or something I can do to accomplish
this/ =

My ground edges are great for foiling etc. but not for leaving "exposed"
,so =

to say! thanks, Abbie in Va<

What type of grinder bit are you using?  There is a "Very Fine" grinder b=
it
available which leaves a nice smooth finish.  You can also edge polish
using a beveling machine.  This will give you an extremely fine polished
edge.  Or you can fire polish the edges by putting the pieces into a kiln=

and firing it up to temperature where the edges get soft.

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
North Wales, PA USA
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From owner-glass Wed Mar  1 08:03:41 2000
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From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: IGGA Press Release:Glass Beadmakers Convention
Date: Wed, 1 Mar 2000 10:38:28 -0500
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The following press release is provided as a service to the members
of the International Guild of Glass Artists.  It is not an endorsement.

Christie A. Wood-IGGA Exec.Director
------------------------------
Glass Beadmakers Convention Set for Oakland, CA August 11-13

The Society of Glass Beadmakers (SGB) announces its
annual national convention, August 11th-13th, 2000 at the
Marriott Convention Center in downtown Oakland, California.

An international organization with more than 650 members,
SGB provides a forum for sharing information on techniques
and materials for glass beadmaking, as well as networking.

Conference events will include slide presentations and
demonstrations, along with special poblem solving sessions,
open torch, and all-members show.

A public Bead Bazaar highlights the program on Saturday
August 12th, 10 to 6 at the Convention Center.  The bazaar
features more than 100 glass artists selling hand-made beads
and jewelry, as well as equipment vendors and a silent
auction.

Numerous beadmaking classes are scheduled to coincide
with the convention, as well as juried shows at nearby art
galleries.

Conference registration has begun.  Early bird fee is $200,
slightly higher afterward.  Class and gallery shows are extra.
For more information, go to the SGB website www.sgb.org,
call 1-888-742-0242, or contact The Society of Glass
Beadmakers, 1120 Chester Avenue #470, Cleveland, OH 44114.
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From owner-glass Wed Mar  1 08:27:05 2000
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From: Mary <the_wright_light@go.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Subject: glass show
Date: Wed, 01 Mar 2000 07:52:47 -0800 (PST)
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Does anyone know if there is a glass show of some kind in
Chicago in June?  I have been off the list for a while so 
this may have already been answered.
Also does anyone know of an 18inch hex pattern that does
not have a lot of pieces. I have seen one at Delphi but
it has birds and a lot of pieces. Thanks
Maggie

___________________________________________________
GO Network Mail                                   
Get Your Free, Private E-mail at http://mail.go.com

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From owner-glass Wed Mar  1 09:24:34 2000
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X-Path: sympatico.ca!tandg.higson
From: Anthony Higson <tandg.higson@sympatico.ca>
To: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@ix.netcom.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: restrip vs. rebar
Date: Wed, 01 Mar 2000 11:27:38 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@l.pop50.bellglobal.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Hi Suzanne,
Acouple of years ago I made two identical panels to go into side by side
windows.  I found out about restrip after I had made the first,so I put it
into the second panel.What a difference it made in the rigidity of the
panel!  The client also noticed the difference when he installed the two
panels.  It seems to add extra stability into panels that are over a
certain size .  I hope this helps.
Regards
Gillian

Suzanne Gunn wrote:

> I really dont understand how restrip strengthens a panel.
> Does it *really* add strength?
>
> I think it makes sense that rebar would be the best reinforcement, but
> could obviously interfere with your design.  At work, Ive been amazed
> how we've been able to make
> the rebar virtually disappear with patina.
>
> I guess I have a hard time trusting the restrip.
>
> Comments anyone?
>
> Suzanne
> ----
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From owner-glass Wed Mar  1 09:54:28 2000
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X-Path: cyberia.co.th!silu5
From: silu5@cyberia.co.th (leclecse)
To: silu5@cyberia.co.th
Subject: Lectronic Marketin'
Summary: Authenticated sender is <silu5@cyberia.co.th>
Date: Wed, 1 Mar 2000 09:35:54 -0800 (PST)
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 DO YOU BELIEVE YOU HAVE A VIABLE PRODUCT OR SERVICE ?

 Did you know that there is a method of marketing that costs pennies
 but have the same effect as direct postal mail? This can be made 
 possible through recent Internet technology breakthroughs. You can 
 now compete with the big boys, with exposure in MASSIVE NUMBERS,
 without expensive investments such as those associated with
 television commercials, radio advertising, direct postal mail, or 
 telemarketing.

 IS YOUR MARKET BEING REACHED OR LIMITED BY:

           * Geographic boundaries or location
           * lack of NEW leads
           * lack of NEW exposure

 THE SOLUTION - Direct E-mail Marketing

 Direct E-mail marketing is a proven method to reach a global market
 with a small investment. It is more advantageous than conventional
 marketing and the risk is minimal. The prospects are millions and can
 be reached for much less than conventional methods. We specialize in
 Direct E-mail and can send your Ad to thousands or millions of
 GENERAL or TARGETED leads, nationwide or worldwide.


 ******************
 For more details, just send a fax to 781-240-7780

 Send your:   1) name   2) email   3) tel #
  

 Thank you and have a happy leap year!

                     2-

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From owner-glass Wed Mar  1 10:01:56 2000
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X-Path: alpha.nad.adelphia.net!alewis
From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@alpha.nad.adelphia.net>
To: "(glass people)" < (info@cdvkiln.com)>
Subject: Happy Birthday to me, Marty Daily!
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@pop.nad.adelphia.net>
Date: Wed, 1 Mar 2000 09:59:36 +0000
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Happy Birthday to me!

Yes, it's my birthday in a few days and, to celebrate, we've got a 
present for *you! That's backwards, I know, but hey! 

To get 5% off any Kiln 
10% off any Kiln Accessories 
5% off any Carlisle Torch 
10% off any Sandblaster or 
10% off any Book ...

   ... just go to http://www.cdvkiln.com/menuspec.htm

and send me a birthday card! That's all there is to it!

Marty Daily
Centre DeVerre
18 Bartlett Street 
Allenstown, NH 03275 

Toll free: ( 800 ) 958-5319 
Phone: ( 603 ) 485-8344 
Fax: ( 603 ) 485-8344 
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From owner-glass Wed Mar  1 10:33:29 2000
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From: Bobfuses@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Re: Happy Birthday to me, Marty Daily!
Date: Wed, 1 Mar 2000 13:19:53 EST
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In a message dated 3/1/00 10:02:52 AM Pacific Standard Time, 
alewis@alpha.nad.adelphia.net writes:

> Yes, it's my birthday in a few days and, to celebrate, we've got a 
>  present for *you! That's backwards, I know, but hey! 

Seems like commercial advertising to me.

Bob in 9 2 0 2 6
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From owner-glass Wed Mar  1 12:23:05 2000
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From: "Carol DeLong" <crystalangl@earthlink.net>
To: <Bobfuses@aol.com>, <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Happy Birthday to me, Marty Daily!
Date: Wed, 1 Mar 2000 14:11:06 -0500
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NO KIDDING!!

Carol D.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Bobfuses@aol.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 01, 2000 1:19 PM
Subject: Re: Happy Birthday to me, Marty Daily!


> In a message dated 3/1/00 10:02:52 AM Pacific Standard Time, 
> alewis@alpha.nad.adelphia.net writes:
> 
> > Yes, it's my birthday in a few days and, to celebrate, we've got a 
> >  present for *you! That's backwards, I know, but hey! 
> 
> Seems like commercial advertising to me.
> 
> Bob in 9 2 0 2 6
> ----
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> 

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From owner-glass Wed Mar  1 14:19:36 2000
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X-Path: worldnet.att.net!g.morrelli
From: "Gay E Morrelli" <g.morrelli@worldnet.att.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: glass cutter....
Date: Wed, 1 Mar 2000 11:56:32 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0029_01BF8375.30172A20
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

is anyone able to tell me what is the easiest and smoothest glass cutter =
to use....?  it seems like "old arthur itis" is trying to come and visit =
me these days and/or.... "im sure it is just the weather".....
      it seems to me the 'pistol handled' cutter would be the easiest to =
use, but i didnt want to invest unless it really made a difference...
      thank you for any help or suggestions you might have!
                                     gay morrelli

------=_NextPart_000_0029_01BF8375.30172A20
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>is anyone able to tell me what is =
the easiest=20
and smoothest glass cutter to use....?&nbsp; it seems like &quot;old =
arthur=20
itis&quot; is trying to come and visit me these days and/or.... &quot;im =
sure it=20
is just the weather&quot;.....</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; it =
seems to me=20
the 'pistol handled' cutter would be the easiest to use, but i didnt =
want to=20
invest unless it really made a difference...</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; thank =
you for any=20
help or suggestions you might have!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000=20
size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbs=
p;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp=
;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=
&nbsp;=20
gay morrelli</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0029_01BF8375.30172A20--

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From owner-glass Wed Mar  1 14:51:38 2000
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X-Path: ply.adelphia.net!jaugusta
From: Joseph Augusta <jaugusta@ply.adelphia.net>
To: glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Hey Al Lewis!
Date: Wed, 01 Mar 2000 17:37:23 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Al and others---great story in the March Smithsonian on the new Mass.
Museum of Contemporary Art--located right in Al's hometown of North
Adams--hope I'm not giving away any secrets---but, wondering if I want
to come out to visit for the weekend and must bring my wife--she has all
the $$$-- can you recommend a nice play to stay?

Best wishes,
Joseph
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From owner-glass Wed Mar  1 15:03:08 2000
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X-Path: netbridge.net!balloch
From: Shirley Balloch <balloch@netbridge.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Kinda glass related
Date: Wed, 01 Mar 2000 15:07:38 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Organization: Maiden Concepts
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Hi groups,
I have a new internet friend in Ca.  She is looking for a wholesaler(s)
to sell her mirror placemats.  They have a backing of some sort and it
is what jeweler like to display their product on to a customer.  The
mirror is a regular place mat size and she has been informed that the
backing on the mirror scores the same as the glass.
Any body know where she can purchase some of these for her store?
Thanks in advance.
Shirley B
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From owner-glass Wed Mar  1 16:55:24 2000
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X-Path: ix.netcom.com!gunnx4
From: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@ix.netcom.com>
To: Anthony Higson <tandg.higson@sympatico.ca>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: restrip vs. rebar
Date: Wed, 01 Mar 2000 17:04:11 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<38BD5309.DBE5F5A8@sympatico.ca>>
Precedence: bulk

Two identical panels is a good experiment.  Did you reinforce the first
panel at all?


Anthony Higson wrote:
> 
> Hi Suzanne,
> Acouple of years ago I made two identical panels to go into side by side
> windows.  I found out about restrip after I had made the first,so I put it
> into the second panel.What a difference it made in the rigidity of the
> panel!  The client also noticed the difference when he installed the two
> panels.  It seems to add extra stability into panels that are over a
> certain size .  I hope this helps.
> Regards
> Gillian
> 
> Suzanne Gunn wrote:
> 
> > I really dont understand how restrip strengthens a panel.
> > Does it *really* add strength?
> >
> > I think it makes sense that rebar would be the best reinforcement, but
> > could obviously interfere with your design.  At work, Ive been amazed
> > how we've been able to make
> > the rebar virtually disappear with patina.
> >
> > I guess I have a hard time trusting the restrip.
> >
> > Comments anyone?
> >
> > Suzanne
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
----
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From owner-glass Wed Mar  1 19:30:55 2000
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From: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@ix.netcom.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Stained Glass Artists wanted
Date: Wed, 01 Mar 2000 21:02:30 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

>> >>Hello --
>> >>
>> >>We are searching for Stained Glass artists to teach this summer.  Would
>> >>you post this ad or contact any interested parties?
>> >>
>> >>Thank you --
>> >>
>> >>Ellen L. Freeman
>> >>Office Manager
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>STAINED GLASS AD
>> >>
>> >>ARTISTS NEEDED to teach Stained Glass, at our International Creative
>> >>Arts Camp for boys and girls ages 8-13.  Beautiful large studio.  For
>> >>years we have had the most sophisticated art programs in camping.  Join
>> >>other adult craftspeople from across the U.S. and around the world.--
>> >>
>> >>    HIDDEN VALLEY CAMP
>> >>    Freedom, Maine 04941
>> >>    Peter & Meg Kassen - Directors
>> >>
>> >>    An International Children's Community for Over 50 Years
>> >>
>> >>       Email: summer@hiddenvalleycamp.com
>> >>
>> >>       Phone: 800-922-6737
>> >>       From Overseas: 207-342-5177
>> >>       Fax: 207-342-5685
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From owner-glass Thu Mar  2 02:57:32 2000
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X-Path: earthlink.net!crystalangl
From: "Carol DeLong" <crystalangl@earthlink.net>
To: "Gay E Morrelli" <g.morrelli@worldnet.att.net>, <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: glass cutter....
Date: Wed, 1 Mar 2000 18:35:11 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Dear Gay,
I suggest the pistol grip.  I have had carpal tunnel syndrome and recent
surgery (after years of typing and two years of intense glass cutting).  My
doctor saw both my regular one and my pistol grip/ he suggested the pistol
grip.  I hold it with my first finger resting on the right side of the
cutter head and find the curves easy to handle with a good score line.
There are things I prefer to use the regular one with, but mostly use the
pistol grip.

By the way..I wish I had had the courage to have the surgery long ago.
After all the horror stories, I can tell you it was the best thing I have
ever done - strength is coming back like it was years ago - and with no pain
at all.
Sincerelym,
Carol D

----- Original Message -----
From: Gay E Morrelli <g.morrelli@worldnet.att.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 01, 2000 12:56 PM
Subject: glass cutter....


> This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
>
> ------=_NextPart_000_0029_01BF8375.30172A20
> Content-Type: text/plain;
> charset="iso-8859-1"
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
>
> is anyone able to tell me what is the easiest and smoothest glass cutter =
> to use....?  it seems like "old arthur itis" is trying to come and visit =
> me these days and/or.... "im sure it is just the weather".....
>       it seems to me the 'pistol handled' cutter would be the easiest to =
> use, but i didnt want to invest unless it really made a difference...
>       thank you for any help or suggestions you might have!
>                                      gay morrelli
>
> ------=_NextPart_000_0029_01BF8375.30172A20
> Content-Type: text/html;
> charset="iso-8859-1"
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
>
> <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
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> <HEAD>
>
> <META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
> http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
> <META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
> </HEAD>
> <BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
> <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>is anyone able to tell me what is =
> the easiest=20
> and smoothest glass cutter to use....?&nbsp; it seems like &quot;old =
> arthur=20
> itis&quot; is trying to come and visit me these days and/or.... &quot;im =
> sure it=20
> is just the weather&quot;.....</FONT></DIV>
> <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; it =
> seems to me=20
> the 'pistol handled' cutter would be the easiest to use, but i didnt =
> want to=20
> invest unless it really made a difference...</FONT></DIV>
> <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; thank =
> you for any=20
> help or suggestions you might have!</FONT></DIV>
> <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000=20
> size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbs=
> p;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp=
> ;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=
> &nbsp;=20
> gay morrelli</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
>
> ------=_NextPart_000_0029_01BF8375.30172A20--
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
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>

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From owner-glass Thu Mar  2 12:44:51 2000
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	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #111 built 2000-Mar-2)
X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: glass cutter....
Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2000 09:15:08 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Message text written by "Gay E Morrelli"
>is anyone able to tell me what is the easiest and smoothest glass cutter=
 =3D
to use....?  it seems like "old arthur itis" is trying to come and visit =
=3D
me these days and/or.... "im sure it is just the weather".....
      it seems to me the 'pistol handled' cutter would be the easiest to =
=3D
use, but i didnt want to invest unless it really made a difference...
      thank you for any help or suggestions you might have!
                                     gay morrelli<

I love my Toyo pistol grip cutter.  Go ahead and spend the exta
bucks for a real Toyo, not the imitation K-Star.  The K-Star has
a problem with the head gasget not fitting properly to the pistol
grip body, and causing the body to crack at the joint.  The Toyo
is the way to go!

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
North Wales, PA USA
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From owner-glass Thu Mar  2 14:01:26 2000
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From: freemail99@AllThePlanet.com
To: hgoux@bupa.com
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Achievement! -lhiqmrqhxpn
Date: Wed, 01 Mar 2000 14:09:28 -0500
Message-ID: <yqmcyfsnopdaprrj.eisioibxjtqqqinxrv@wkjkvs.inc1.com>
Precedence: bulk

Dear Candidate,

You were recently selected by The Office of the Managing 
Director for a free listing on The International Executive 
Guild's Who's Who.

Our Researchers gather information from many recognized
sources, including professional associations and societies,
trade organizations, newspaper and magazine articles, 
professional reference publications, web presence, and 
referrals from existing members.

As a highly respected professional in your field of
expertise, we believe your contributions merit very 
serious consideration for inclusion on The International 
Executive Guild's Who's Who.  To maintain
the level of accuracy, we ask you to click on the web 
address highlighted below and fill out the brief bit of 
information required for inclusion.  

There is no cost or obligation to be listed on The 
International Executive Guild's Who's Who.  

For registration, please visit:

http://209.155.119.174/theguild


My Sincere Thanks,  

Lorraine A. Michaels 
Office Of Managing Director  

=======================================
All remove requests honored!! Just reply
to this email with REMOVE in the subject
field.



The International Executive Guild is not
affiliated or associated with Marquis 
Who's Who.

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From owner-glass Thu Mar  2 14:22:43 2000
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X-Path: aol.com!Witchdoc3
From: Witchdoc3@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: glass cutter....
Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2000 11:25:39 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk


In a message dated 3/2/00 6:00:01 AM, crystalangl@earthlink.net writes:

>I suggest the pistol grip. [...]

I vote for the pistol grip - and get a proper Toyo, which has a brass ring 
reinforcing the barrel where the head screws in. The less expensive K-Star 
ones don't, and they crack along the seams. I killed 2 of them in 2 years 
(and I don't think I'm particularly heavy-handed with them).

The Toyo rep at GlassVisions last summer gave me several good pointers on 
their use, including

    (1) they should be held so the barrel is parallel to the table top
    (makes sense, since it keeps the wrist in a more comfortable
    position), and

    (2) they're designed mainly to be pushed rather than pulled
    (that surprised me).

I pull rather than push, and I found that what works best for me is to fix 
the head so it doesn't swivel. To do that, loosen the set screw that holds 
the cutter assembly on, rotate the cutter assembly 180 degrees, push it in 
all the way, and re-tighten the set screw.

Incidentally, that disables the lubricating mechanism, so instead of filling 
the barrel with oil, you go back to dipping it (I use a little short fat jar 
that won't tip over, with a piece of sponge stuffed in it - that lubricates 
the wheel *and* wipes off the glass dust).

The Toyo rep was reluctant at first to show me how to "un-swivel" the head, 
and swore I wouldn't like it that way, but it made an immediate *huge* 
difference in the accuracy of my cutting!

The "OK, so we all *know* I'm weird" department: I have 2 Toyo cutters, one 
with a swivelly head and one without. I use the fixed-head one for freehand 
cutting, and the swivelly one for cutting with a straightedge. Go figure - 
that's what works for me...........


Sparks


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From owner-glass Thu Mar  2 15:00:41 2000
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	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #111 built 2000-Mar-2)
X-Path: ix.netcom.com!gunnx4
From: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@ix.netcom.com>
To: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: glass cutter....
Date: Thu, 02 Mar 2000 16:37:26 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

I love my toyo TC-10.  Only problem is I have carpul tunnel.
It doesnt bother me to cut for a few hours but all day every day and it
causes pain.

I have a pistol grip now, but still havent tried it out.  Guess I ought
to just go do that now! ;o)

Suzanne

"Christie A. Wood" wrote:
> 
> Message text written by "Gay E Morrelli"
> >is anyone able to tell me what is the easiest and smoothest glass cutter=
>  =3D
> to use....?  it seems like "old arthur itis" is trying to come and visit =
> =3D
> me these days and/or.... "im sure it is just the weather".....
>       it seems to me the 'pistol handled' cutter would be the easiest to =
> =3D
> use, but i didnt want to invest unless it really made a difference...
>       thank you for any help or suggestions you might have!
>                                      gay morrelli<
> 
> I love my Toyo pistol grip cutter.  Go ahead and spend the exta
> bucks for a real Toyo, not the imitation K-Star.  The K-Star has
> a problem with the head gasget not fitting properly to the pistol
> grip body, and causing the body to crack at the joint.  The Toyo
> is the way to go!
> 
> Christie A. Wood
> Art Glass Ensembles
> North Wales, PA USA
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
----
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From owner-glass Thu Mar  2 15:22:48 2000
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	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #111 built 2000-Mar-2)
X-Path: ilnk.com!andor
From: "Linda Jo Letscher" <andor@ilnk.com>
To: "Bungi" <Glass@bungi.com>
Subject: restrip
Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2000 13:14:26 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Well I just had occasion to mention to the cut small pieces of restrip lady,
about your responses about cutting the 1 inch 2 inche pieces vs. running
restrip across or up and down a piece.

She was very defensive and I told her I was just offering up information
from others that sent in their feelings about reinforcement.  She said well
they don't know everything.  I said no and neither do you, which probably
isn't what she wanted to hear, but at least if folks offer up a different
idea at least be open to listening.  I did say you do it your way and I will
do it mine.  I just wanted to share what information I had gleened.

(I have send her your e-mails compiled into one e-mail, even Charlies which
felt the pieces were ok, so she doesn't think I am making this stuff up
which is the feeling I got when I mentioned it to her)

So I guess from now on in, no matter what she does with her glass I will not
make any other comments or anything.  She knows it all.  Must be nice.  I am
still learning new and different ways and I try to keep an open mind about
anything that is discussed about glass.  Never too old to learn a new trick.

I wish reinforcing was as easy as just sliping a few little pieces of cut
copper down in a few places.  For me ok, but if I am going to be selling
something for a high price I owe it to the customer to do the very best to
make sure the thing lasts.

Linda Jo


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From owner-glass Thu Mar  2 15:31:20 2000
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	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #111 built 2000-Mar-2)
X-Path: go.com!the_wright_light
From: Mary <the_wright_light@go.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Subject: glass show
Date: Thu, 02 Mar 2000 06:31:54 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Does anyone know where I can get more info on glass show 
in Chicago the end of July?  Also where I could find a not
to complicated 18 inch Octagon pattern for a window.Thanks
Maggie

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From owner-glass Thu Mar  2 19:32:40 2000
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X-Path: ix.netcom.com!mbwalker
From: "Brad Walker" <mbwalker@ix.netcom.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Achievement! -lhiqmrqhxpn
Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2000 22:30:59 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<yqmcyfsnopdaprrj.eisioibxjtqqqinxrv@wkjkvs.inc1.com>>
Precedence: bulk

So, did everybody on Bungi get this?  Don't you feel just wonderful to be a
"highly respected professional in your field of  expertise"?

I guess some junk mail is more fun to get than others.

Brad Walker

P.S.  Yes, for some reason I get more junk mail from my Bungi connection
than from anywhere else.  I suspect it's because the Bungi stuff is probably
totally unfiltered and most groups I'm in do some sort of filtering to try
to keep this out of the in-box.  Being on Bungi's worth the hassle (just hit
the delete key and all that) and it's amusing to get occasional messages
like the junk mail referred to above, but I sure would like it if there was
a way to at least control the more pornographic items.

----- Original Message -----
From: <freemail99@AllThePlanet.com>
To: <hgoux@bupa.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 01, 2000 2:09 PM
Subject: Achievement! -lhiqmrqhxpn


> Dear Candidate,
>
> You were recently selected by The Office of the Managing
> Director for a free listing on The International Executive
> Guild's Who's Who.
>
> Our Researchers gather information from many recognized
> sources, including professional associations and societies,
> trade organizations, newspaper and magazine articles,
> professional reference publications, web presence, and
> referrals from existing members.
>
> As a highly respected professional in your field of
> expertise, we believe your contributions merit very
> serious consideration for inclusion on The International
> Executive Guild's Who's Who.  To maintain
> the level of accuracy, we ask you to click on the web
> address highlighted below and fill out the brief bit of
> information required for inclusion.
>
> There is no cost or obligation to be listed on The
> International Executive Guild's Who's Who.
>
> For registration, please visit:
>
> http://209.155.119.174/theguild
>
>
> My Sincere Thanks,
>
> Lorraine A. Michaels
> Office Of Managing Director
>
> =======================================
> All remove requests honored!! Just reply
> to this email with REMOVE in the subject
> field.
>
>
>
> The International Executive Guild is not
> affiliated or associated with Marquis
> Who's Who.
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>

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From owner-glass Thu Mar  2 22:06:47 2000
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X-Path: worldnet.att.net!Moya-Don
From: "D. ONeal" <Moya-Don@worldnet.att.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Spam
Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 00:28:55 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Brad,
Very well said.  There is spam and there is Spam.
Moya

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From owner-glass Thu Mar  2 22:18:01 2000
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	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #111 built 2000-Mar-2)
X-Path: home.com!cecnralph
From: Cecily and Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Subject: Re: restrip
Date: Fri, 03 Mar 2000 00:02:27 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Organization: Grendel Studios
Precedence: bulk

Are there any real statistics on the restrip products?  Do the manufacturers
know?  Can anyone say for certain that if you have an expanse greater than X
you should use rebar rather than the strip?  And it makes sense that an X shape
across the whole area would be sturdier because of the triangles, but is it
actually so?  We are all sharing our experiences, but none of us can offer up
any proof.  I'd like to see some real facts. - Cec

Linda Jo Letscher wrote:

> Well I just had occasion to mention to the cut small pieces of restrip lady,
> about your responses about cutting the 1 inch 2 inche pieces vs. running
> restrip across or up and down a piece.
>
> She was very defensive and I told her I was just offering up information
> from others that sent in their feelings about reinforcement.  She said well
> they don't know everything.  I said no and neither do you, which probably
> isn't what she wanted to hear, but at least if folks offer up a different
> idea at least be open to listening.  I did say you do it your way and I will
> do it mine.  I just wanted to share what information I had gleened.
>
> (I have send her your e-mails compiled into one e-mail, even Charlies which
> felt the pieces were ok, so she doesn't think I am making this stuff up
> which is the feeling I got when I mentioned it to her)
>
> So I guess from now on in, no matter what she does with her glass I will not
> make any other comments or anything.  She knows it all.  Must be nice.  I am
> still learning new and different ways and I try to keep an open mind about
> anything that is discussed about glass.  Never too old to learn a new trick.
>
> I wish reinforcing was as easy as just sliping a few little pieces of cut
> copper down in a few places.  For me ok, but if I am going to be selling
> something for a high price I owe it to the customer to do the very best to
> make sure the thing lasts.
>
> Linda Jo
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

--
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************


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From owner-glass Fri Mar  3 06:54:08 2000
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From: freeads78@hotmail.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: FreeOnlineads.com advertise your product, service, website for FREE.
Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 14:53:24 GMT
Message-ID: <200003031453.OAA24361@serve2.clubnet.net.uk>
Organization: freeonlineads.com
Precedence: bulk

Dear Sir/madam

I found your site on the internet and thought you might intrested in 
our FREE service.
Initally let me intoduce ourselves to you as www.freeonlineads.com,
we are a FREE internet Classified service.  Whether you're looking 
to promote, sell, hire or simply let the world know who you are and 
what you or your organization, club or community group is doing, 
we're sure www.freeadsonle.com will make your experience fast, 
easy, fun and absolutly free.

We hope you like the site and find it useful to your business.

Best regards

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From owner-glass Fri Mar  3 07:08:27 2000
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X-Path: go.com!officerjqg
From: James Garner <officerjqg@go.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Subject: Need Advice
Date: Fri, 03 Mar 2000 06:38:47 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

I have been working with stained glass for since late 
last year.  I have soon found that it can be an expensive 
habit to have.  Since there are no studios or known 
artist near my area for about 150 miles my wife and I 
have decided to sell pieces to supplement the cost.  
Eventually we will get into installing windows etc. when 
we master panels and such.  We have an Equinox festival 
coming in a few weeks.  There are usually people that 
display and sell crafts.  What other avenues does stain 
glass sell well and what formulas are used to place a 
monetary value on a piece.  As of now I done a lot of 
deferent sun catchers and small panels up to 15 inch 
square.

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From owner-glass Fri Mar  3 07:23:49 2000
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X-Path: sol.racsa.co.cr!rlaval
From: Richard LaVal <rlaval@sol.racsa.co.cr>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Subject: studio fees
Date: Fri, 03 Mar 2000 08:01:42 -0600
Message-ID: <3.0.6.32.20000303080142.007dd650@pop.racsa.co.cr>
Precedence: bulk

Hi:=09
	I was wondering what the going rate for persons using using someone else's
studio is and what this would include toolwise.
	thanks, Meg
=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=
=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=
=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=
=BA
=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA
RICHARD AND MEG LAVAL
Apdo 24-5655
Monteverde
COSTA RICA

PHONE 645-5052 or 645-5419
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From owner-glass Fri Mar  3 07:57:09 2000
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	for rglass-42; Fri, 3 Mar 2000 07:37:23 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #111 built 2000-Mar-2)
X-Path: ilnk.com!andor
From: "Linda Jo Letscher" <andor@ilnk.com>
To: "Bungi" <Glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: restrip
Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 10:05:49 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Cecily,
Let us know when you find the real facts.  It seems to be word of mouth at
this point.  I have read what I can find and it isn't that much.  Sutdios
that have withstood the test of time and people that have been doing fine
work for years is a wonderful resource.  I have looked at lots (well every
church I would pass in my travels up north I would stop and look at and if
someone would let me in to look I would look from the inside also) of old
church windows in Md, Pa, Va,  and the rebar they used sure didn't hold many
times, the old windows are sagging and bowing, so their rebar wired at the
back wasn't all that hot a hundred or so years ago, but it was still used, I
guess they thought they were doing the very best at the time.
Linda Jo

-----Original Message-----
From: Cecily and Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Date: Friday, March 03, 2000 1:27 AM
Subject: Re: restrip


>Are there any real statistics on the restrip products?  Do the
manufacturers
>know?  Can anyone say for certain that if you have an expanse greater than
X
>you should use rebar rather than the strip?  And it makes sense that an X
shape
>across the whole area would be sturdier because of the triangles, but is it
>actually so?  We are all sharing our experiences, but none of us can offer
up
>any proof.  I'd like to see some real facts. - Cec
>
>Linda Jo Letscher wrote:
>
>> Well I just had occasion to mention to the cut small pieces of restrip
lady,
>> about your responses about cutting the 1 inch 2 inche pieces vs. running
>> restrip across or up and down a piece.
>>
>> She was very defensive and I told her I was just offering up information
>> from others that sent in their feelings about reinforcement.  She said
well
>> they don't know everything.  I said no and neither do you, which probably
>> isn't what she wanted to hear, but at least if folks offer up a different
>> idea at least be open to listening.  I did say you do it your way and I
will
>> do it mine.  I just wanted to share what information I had gleened.
>>
>> (I have send her your e-mails compiled into one e-mail, even Charlies
which
>> felt the pieces were ok, so she doesn't think I am making this stuff up
>> which is the feeling I got when I mentioned it to her)
>>
>> So I guess from now on in, no matter what she does with her glass I will
not
>> make any other comments or anything.  She knows it all.  Must be nice.  I
am
>> still learning new and different ways and I try to keep an open mind
about
>> anything that is discussed about glass.  Never too old to learn a new
trick.
>>
>> I wish reinforcing was as easy as just sliping a few little pieces of cut
>> copper down in a few places.  For me ok, but if I am going to be selling
>> something for a high price I owe it to the customer to do the very best
to
>> make sure the thing lasts.
>>
>> Linda Jo
>>
>> ----
>> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
>--
>*********************************************************************
>*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
>*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
>*********************************************************************
>
>
>----
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From owner-glass Fri Mar  3 08:27:11 2000
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X-Path: stmassociates.com!shigbee
From: "Shari Higbee" <shigbee@stmassociates.com>
To: <mailbox>
Content-Type: multipart/mixed;
Subject: C:\CoolProgs\Pretty Park.exe
Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 08:05:30 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <m12Qua2-0000dyC@daver.bungi.com>
Precedence: bulk

------=_NextPart_18333
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
Message-Id: <200003030854155.SM00175@209.210.29.175>
Date: Fri,  3 Mar 2000 08:59:39 -0700

Test: Pretty Park.exe  :)

   Shari Higbee

------=_NextPart_18333
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Content-Disposition: attachment;
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NNEAAAQAACABAAQEBAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA==

------=_NextPart_18333--
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From owner-glass Fri Mar  3 08:58:21 2000
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	for rglass-42; Fri, 3 Mar 2000 08:38:59 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #111 built 2000-Mar-2)
X-Path: stmassociates.com!shigbee
From: "Shari Higbee" <shigbee@stmassociates.com>
To: "Terry Higbee" <t.a.higbee@gd-is.com>,
Subject: DO NOT OPEN THE PRETTY PARK!
Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 09:34:13 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

This email was sent me to me--when I tried to open it, it sent an email to
everyone in my mailing list--my brother tells me I just sent you a worm
virus. Please don't open the attachment!

And please accept my apologies!
Shari Higbee



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From owner-glass Fri Mar  3 09:30:50 2000
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	for rglass-42; Fri, 3 Mar 2000 09:04:10 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #111 built 2000-Mar-2)
X-Path: one.net!gwood
From: "Gregg Wood" <gwood@one.net>
To: "Glass @ Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: studio fees
Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 11:55:36 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<3.0.6.32.20000303080142.007dd650@pop.racsa.co.cr>>
Precedence: bulk

We charge $7.50 an hour.  That includes use of grinders & soldering irons.

They must supply cutters, pliers, etc. along with all consumables.

This does not include assistance from 'one of us'.  We get a good deal of
beginners needing to do final finishing of their projects & such but can
mostly operate on their own.  If they need instructor time, that's $12.50.


> Hi
> I was wondering what the going rate for persons using using someone else's
> studio is and what this would include toolwise.
> thanks, Meg


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From owner-glass Fri Mar  3 12:07:32 2000
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X-Path: OREGON.UOREGON.EDU!soleim
From: Sherrie Soleim <soleim@OREGON.UOREGON.EDU>
To: Shari Higbee <shigbee@stmassociates.com>, Stained Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: PrettyPark IS a worm.  No hoax.
Date: Fri, 03 Mar 2000 09:42:09 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@daver.bungi.com>>
Organization: oregon.uoregon.edu
Precedence: bulk

Pretty Park IS a worm virus.  I deleted the message when I saw the subject.  If you have
Norton Anti Virus it SHOULD detect this worm.
If you do get it, you can go to ...
http://www.avertlabs.com/public/datafiles/valerts/vinfo/va10184.asp
OR  www.cnet.com  to get rid of it.


Shari Higbee wrote:

> This email was sent me to me--when I tried to open it, it sent an email to
> everyone in my mailing list--my brother tells me I just sent you a worm
> virus. Please don't open the attachment!
>
> And please accept my apologies!
> Shari Higbee
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

--
<><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>
Sherrie L. Soleim
University of Oregon
Library Personnel Services
soleim@oregon.uoregon.edu
<><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>


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From owner-glass Fri Mar  3 13:04:41 2000
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	for rglass-42; Fri, 3 Mar 2000 12:44:15 -0800 (PST)
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie_Spitzer@stratus.com>
Subject: Re: FW: copper restrip or any reinforcement
Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 20:26:02 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk

In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, Spitzer, Charlie
<Charlie_Spitzer@stratus.com> writes
>well, look at a seam. what you're trying to do is prevent a bend on the
>seam, which is what flex is. if you can reinforce a set of places across the
>entire panel in every place that can bend, it's at every intersection. doing
>this moves the bending moment from the seam to the middle of the piece of
>glass, which will resist bending more than the seam will.
>
>the pieces of restrip in places where there is no seam, technically, adds
>very little strength to resist the bending at the seams.
>
Except, Charlie, that glass is much more brittle than the lead came.
The glass won't bent (very much) before breaking.  Transferring the
pressures from the soldered joint to the glass is not a good idea for a
long life panel.  
        The attempt must be to transfer the pressures to the external
sides of the panel where they are dissipated to the framework.
Steve

>regards,
>charlie
>phx az
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Linda Jo Letscher [mailto:andor@ilnk.com] 
>Sent: Tuesday, February 29, 2000 7:26 AM
>To: Bungi
>Subject: copper restrip or any reinforcement
>
>
>Reinforcemnt in copper foil, copper restrip that you put between the pieces
>before soldering is what I am talking about here.
>
>I happened to be over at a friends when she was finishing up a large window
>that she was reinforcing amd getting ready to solder and she wanted to to
>take and look and tell her where I would put the reinforcement.
>
>Well...............
>
>She had been to a studio of an old fellow that told her that there was no
>need to run the reinforcemnt all the way across or vertically in one piece.
>He told her to cut 2 inch pieces and just slip them in the intersections
>across the piece, that there was no need to waste the stuff.  Well I was
>speechless.  I mentioned I would but it all the way across and she said
>"naw"............. so I watched as she cut these little pieces and just
>randomly slipped them in here and there.
>
>I always thought that when reinforcing we ran it all the way across or up
>and down.  I thought I would throw this out for discussion as I personally
>can't see how using just small pieces at the intersections would add that
>much strenght.
>
>This person has only been doing glass for about 8 months, I taught her, but
>once on her own she has taken on some rather odd ways of doing stuff, but I
>do keep my mouth shut as we all do things differently, but I hate to see her
>spending the time to reinforce if the way she is doing if is useless.  And
>that in a while her big window that is hanging is going to start to sag.
>
>I need some ammo here guys to take over and explain to her why we would run
>the retrip all the way across.
>
>Linda Jo
>
>
>----
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-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Fri Mar  3 13:05:16 2000
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	for rglass-42; Fri, 3 Mar 2000 12:43:56 -0800 (PST)
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Richard LaVal <rlaval@sol.racsa.co.cr>
Subject: Re: studio fees
Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 20:35:26 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<3.0.6.32.20000303080142.007dd650@pop.racsa.co.cr>>
Precedence: bulk

In our studio ( a collaborative, open access studio) the rates are as
follows:
2.00 UK pounds per hour
10.00 UK pounds per day
25.00 UK pounds per week
50.00 UK pounds per month
        all hand tools to be supplied by the renter.  work benches and
machines provided by the studio.

This compares to 52.50 UK pounds to be a full member of the studio.

Also use of kilns, and etching equipment have much higher fees than for
studio members.  E.g.  fusing costs a studio member 2.90; but a renter
must pay 14.00
Etching costs a studio member 10.00; and a renter 20.00

Steve

In message <3.0.6.32.20000303080142.007dd650@pop.racsa.co.cr>, Richard
LaVal <rlaval@sol.racsa.co.cr> writes
>Hi:=09
>       I was wondering what the going rate for persons using using someone 
>else's
>studio is and what this would include toolwise.
>       thanks, Meg
>=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=
>=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=
>=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=
>=BA
>=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA
>RICHARD AND MEG LAVAL
>Apdo 24-5655
>Monteverde
>COSTA RICA
>
>PHONE 645-5052 or 645-5419
>----
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-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Fri Mar  3 13:34:03 2000
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	for rglass-42; Fri, 3 Mar 2000 12:55:50 -0800 (PST)
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X-Path: stratus.com!Charlie_Spitzer
From: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie_Spitzer@stratus.com>
To: "'Steve Richard'" <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE: FW: copper restrip or any reinforcement
Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 13:48:01 -0700 
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

maybe. i just don't know. we're talking about foil in this case.
furthermore, you're not attempting to break the foil line, but prevent
flexing of the seams, especially at folding lines. the solder seam will bend
a whole lot easier than the glass will. i also don't know if putting a solid
strip of restrip will actually channel the forces to the edge, or whether it
just distributes it throughout the entire length of the seam in question.

without some stress analysis and destructive testing of identical panels, i
don't know that anyone can state that this method of pieces of restrip works
or not.

regards,
charlie
phx, az

-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Richard [mailto:s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk]
Sent: Friday, March 03, 2000 1:26 PM
To: Spitzer, Charlie
Cc: 'glass@bungi.com'
Subject: Re: FW: copper restrip or any reinforcement


In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, Spitzer, Charlie
<Charlie_Spitzer@stratus.com> writes
>well, look at a seam. what you're trying to do is prevent a bend on the
>seam, which is what flex is. if you can reinforce a set of places across
the
>entire panel in every place that can bend, it's at every intersection.
doing
>this moves the bending moment from the seam to the middle of the piece of
>glass, which will resist bending more than the seam will.
>
>the pieces of restrip in places where there is no seam, technically, adds
>very little strength to resist the bending at the seams.
>
Except, Charlie, that glass is much more brittle than the lead came.
The glass won't bent (very much) before breaking.  Transferring the
pressures from the soldered joint to the glass is not a good idea for a
long life panel.  
        The attempt must be to transfer the pressures to the external
sides of the panel where they are dissipated to the framework.
Steve

>regards,
>charlie
>phx az
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Linda Jo Letscher [mailto:andor@ilnk.com] 
>Sent: Tuesday, February 29, 2000 7:26 AM
>To: Bungi
>Subject: copper restrip or any reinforcement
>
>
>Reinforcemnt in copper foil, copper restrip that you put between the pieces
>before soldering is what I am talking about here.
>
>I happened to be over at a friends when she was finishing up a large window
>that she was reinforcing amd getting ready to solder and she wanted to to
>take and look and tell her where I would put the reinforcement.
>
>Well...............
>
>She had been to a studio of an old fellow that told her that there was no
>need to run the reinforcemnt all the way across or vertically in one piece.
>He told her to cut 2 inch pieces and just slip them in the intersections
>across the piece, that there was no need to waste the stuff.  Well I was
>speechless.  I mentioned I would but it all the way across and she said
>"naw"............. so I watched as she cut these little pieces and just
>randomly slipped them in here and there.
>
>I always thought that when reinforcing we ran it all the way across or up
>and down.  I thought I would throw this out for discussion as I personally
>can't see how using just small pieces at the intersections would add that
>much strenght.
>
>This person has only been doing glass for about 8 months, I taught her, but
>once on her own she has taken on some rather odd ways of doing stuff, but I
>do keep my mouth shut as we all do things differently, but I hate to see
her
>spending the time to reinforce if the way she is doing if is useless.  And
>that in a while her big window that is hanging is going to start to sag.
>
>I need some ammo here guys to take over and explain to her why we would run
>the retrip all the way across.
>
>Linda Jo
>
-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Fri Mar  3 23:15:05 2000
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From: "Sarah" <arasai@bright.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
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Date: Sat, 4 Mar 2000 03:06:06 -0500
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Hi! I'm fairly new to the stained glass field, and my supplier (and good =
friend) keeps telling me about things she has read on the bungi message =
board. I have tried to go to this message site several times, but I =
can't locate it. Can you please send me the info I need to type in to =
see your message board? I surely appreciate any help...!
    Thanks!
    Sarah =20
    arasai@bright.net=20

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<DIV><FONT color=3D#000080 size=3D4><STRONG><EM>Hi! I'm fairly new to =
the stained=20
glass field, and my supplier (and good friend) keeps telling me about =
things she=20
has read on the bungi message board. I have tried to go to this message =
site=20
several times, but I can't locate it. Can you please send me the info I =
need to=20
type in to see your message board? I surely appreciate any=20
help...!</EM></STRONG></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000080 size=3D4><STRONG><EM>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
Thanks!</EM></STRONG></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><EM><FONT color=3D#000080 size=3D4>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
Sarah&nbsp;=20
</FONT></EM></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><EM><FONT color=3D#000080 size=3D4>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <A=20
href=3D"mailto:arasai@bright.net">arasai@bright.net</A></FONT></EM></STRO=
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From owner-glass Sat Mar  4 07:02:28 2000
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X-Path: ply.adelphia.net!jaugusta
From: Joseph Augusta <jaugusta@ply.adelphia.net>
To: glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Sell online here---
Date: Sat, 04 Mar 2000 09:53:31 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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The iTheo site is looking for artwork to list on its site--they give
grants to emerging artists too--here's one of their pages on stained
glass--you can search the site for more:


http://www.iTheo.com/browser/search_result.jsp?keywords=stained+glass&category=201&subject=0&size=0&medium=0&color=all&price=0&x=58&y=7

If your browser won't take this long URL just delete everything after
.com and it'll work.

Best wishes,
Joseph
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From owner-glass Sat Mar  4 22:46:47 2000
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X-Path: www-sf-1.symantec.com!nobody
From: Nobody <nobody@www-sf-1.symantec.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Virus information on: PrettyPark.Worm
Date: Sat, 4 Mar 2000 22:36:15 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <200003050636.WAA11709@www-sf-1.symantec.com>
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Bungians-

I thought you'd like to read about PrettyPark.Worm at the following URL:

http://www.symantec.com/avcenter/venc/data/prettypark.worm.html

Pamela Burns-Tappan
ptap@pacifier.com
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From owner-glass Sat Mar  4 23:48:26 2000
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From: "Linda Jo Letscher" <andor@ilnk.com>
To: "Bungi" <Glass@bungi.com>
Subject: virus
Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2000 02:11:40 -0500
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Thanks Pam for the heads up.
Linda Jo


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From owner-glass Sun Mar  5 12:02:45 2000
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From: Pamela Burns-Tappan <ptap@pacifier.com>
To: "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: NG My Day With Pretty Park 
Date: Sun, 05 Mar 2000 11:38:38 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Organization: MM Ltd.
Precedence: bulk

I will say this, Pretty Park is quite memorable if you open it. It
causes great grief, hives and extreme physical anguish.

The file came to me via email by someone I know very well. Of course I
opened the file because I knew this person. Big mistake. This person
didn't send the file at all, it was the virus that automatically sent
the mail through her contact list. When I clicked on the file a cute
little icon appeared and nothing happened visually when I opened it up.
Now a few minutes went by and I checked my email whereby I noticed the
first pretty park message in bungi. Well for me it was too late. I
deleted the file and tried to run a program. The virus adds files32 to
your system registry and your locked out of running any sort of
programs.

After I had a short breakdown I then went to the grocery store, bought
some wine and calamine lotion and settled in for a long day and a half
of fixing my computer. Thank god I'm friends with my ex husband, it was
his wisdom that guided me through fixing my computer. Now one thing I do
recommend. Visit your local grocery store and stock up on the vino
before you run Windows 98, which is what I had to do. That certainly
makes the process much more enjoyable and it's quite calming to the
nerves. Also let your spouse know that you have a computer virus and the
last thing he should say to you is "What's your problem, gosh your
moody." Those were the last words my husband said to me. Guess it's time
to unlock the woodshed and take the duck tape off......Nah!

Take care all!!

Pam





--

Ms. Pamela Burns-Tappan
Executive Director
The Stained Glass Artists
http://stainedglassartists.com
A Division of: Moswood Mountain Ltd.
http://moswoodmountainltd.com


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From owner-glass Sun Mar  5 19:34:02 2000
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From: "Linda Jo Letscher" <andor@ilnk.com>
To: "Bungi" <Glass@bungi.com>
Subject: octagon
Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2000 22:26:21 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

I need some handy hints on coming up with a octagon, any size is fine.  We
can use 18 or 24 inches across..... or whatever.  I need to get the drill
down as how to draw it to the size I want.   I have 1/4 inch grid graph
paper, pencil, ruler.  I want to make sure that I have it exact so when I go
to frame it, I won't run into any trouble.  (I know my framing it may not be
that super first go round but I will get it.)

I know that the angle I need to cut my wood at is 22.5............but I want
to make sure my window and zinc are cut correct so the framing will go
smoothly.  :-)

Thanks for any handy hints.
Linda Jo





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From owner-glass Sun Mar  5 21:53:43 2000
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From: "Sarah" <arasai@bright.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
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Subject: A BIG Thank You!!!
Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2000 00:33:52 -0500
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Hi Everyone,
    I wanted to send a really big Thank You to everyone who replied to =
my e-mail about the message board! I thought it was wonderful how many =
people would take the time to help me! I did subscribe, and am looking =
forward to getting to know you all!Thanks again!
Sarah :-)

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<DIV><FONT color=3D#000080 size=3D4><STRONG><EM>Hi=20
Everyone,</EM></STRONG></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><EM><FONT color=3D#000080 size=3D4>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; I =
wanted to send=20
a really big Thank You to everyone who replied to my e-mail about the =
message=20
board! I thought it was wonderful how many people would take the time to =
help=20
me! I did subscribe, and am looking forward to getting to know you =
all!Thanks=20
again!</FONT></EM></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000080 size=3D4><STRONG><EM>Sarah=20
:-)</EM></STRONG></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-glass Mon Mar  6 06:42:08 2000
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X-Path: one.net!gwood
From: "Gregg Wood" <gwood@one.net>
To: "Glass @ Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: octagon
Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2000 09:29:09 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

If you take the overall width (or height) of the octagon i.e. 24"
and use the formula:

s = w / ( 1 + sqr(2) )  (OK, this isn't the best forum for math)

That's the width (w) divided by the quantity 1 plus the square root of 2.
That will give you the
length of the 8 sides (s) of the octagon.
Make 8 lines that length, arrange @ 22.5o and poof, octagon.

For 24" each side is 9.94".

-G


> I need some handy hints on coming up with a octagon, any size is fine.  We
> can use 18 or 24 inches across..... or whatever.  I need to get the drill
> down as how to draw it to the size I want.

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From owner-glass Mon Mar  6 10:03:42 2000
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From: "synergyglass" <seaspray@island.net>
To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Old California Lantern fixtures...anybody got them in stock?
Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2000 07:25:01 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hi all.  I'm looking for the Old California Lantern company fixtures for a
client.  I have already tried their web site and phone numbers on their
brochure.  They appear to be out of business so I'm wanting to know whether
there are any retailers around that might still have some in stock.

We need 6 fixtures #102 or 103 from the California Bungalow Series in bronze
finish.  Anybody out there got some in their store?

Carol Swann
Synergy Glass & Creative
www.igga.org/synergy
seaspray@island.net

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From owner-glass Mon Mar  6 10:21:40 2000
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From: "Carolyn" <glasscat@infinet.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: The New Gryphon
Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2000 12:34:28 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Hi Bungi Group:
I had sent an inquiry awhile back about the new Gryphon Omni saw. Apparently
at that time it hadn't gotten to the distributors yet. I was wondering if
anyone in the group had actually gotten one or had hands on experience with
one by now? I have the Taurus I, but like the "inside" cutting aspect of the
Gryphon.
Carolyn

glasscat@infinet.com

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From owner-glass Mon Mar  6 11:56:49 2000
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From: Robert Collins <rcollins1@mindspring.com>
To: synergyglass <seaspray@island.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Old California Lantern fixtures...anybody got them in stock?
Date: Mon, 06 Mar 2000 14:37:39 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Organization: CSC, Inc.
Precedence: bulk

The latest flyer I got from Stained Glass Warehouse has The Old
California LAnterns on sale Sq Wall Mt And Sq hanging for $49.95 each.
Or check their Web sight http://www.SGW.net they might have them on
there also.

	Bob
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From owner-glass Tue Mar  7 06:31:42 2000
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X-Path: one.net!gwood
From: "Gregg Wood" <gwood@one.net>
To: "Glass @ Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: octagon
Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2000 08:25:15 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<B0007237024@mail.ilnk.com>>
Precedence: bulk

FWIW...

Any regular n-sided polygon circumscribed inside a circle of diameter d...
(points of polygon on circle line)
The length of a side s is determined by

s = d sin( 180 / n )


Any regular n-sided polygon with a circle of diameter d circumscribed
within..
(sides of polygon tangent to circle line)
The length of a side s is determined by

s = d tan( 180 / n )



----- Original Message -----
From: Linda Jo Letscher <andor@ilnk.com>
To: Gregg Wood <gwood@one.net>
Sent: Monday, March 06, 2000 11:58 AM
Subject: Re: octagon


> Thanks Gregg,
> Linda Jo
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Gregg Wood <gwood@one.net>
> To: Glass @ Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
> Date: Monday, March 06, 2000 9:55 AM
> Subject: Re: octagon
>
>
> >If you take the overall width (or height) of the octagon i.e. 24"
> >and use the formula:
> >
> >s = w / ( 1 + sqr(2) )  (OK, this isn't the best forum for math)
> >
> >That's the width (w) divided by the quantity 1 plus the square root of 2.
> >That will give you the
> >length of the 8 sides (s) of the octagon.
> >Make 8 lines that length, arrange @ 22.5o and poof, octagon.
> >
> >For 24" each side is 9.94".
> >
> >-G
> >
> >
> >> I need some handy hints on coming up with a octagon, any size is fine.
> We
> >> can use 18 or 24 inches across..... or whatever.  I need to get the
drill
> >> down as how to draw it to the size I want.
> >
> >----
> >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> >To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
>

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From owner-glass Tue Mar  7 08:31:51 2000
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X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: IGGA Press Release: Hot Glass Apprentice Wanted
Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2000 11:03:05 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

The following announcement is provided to the members of the
International Guild of Glass Artists as a service.

Christie A. Wood-IGGA Exec.Director
Art Glass Ensembles
North Wales, PA USA
---------------------------
APPRENTICE WANTED

Local Glassblower of Fort Collins,CO. is looking for an =

apprentice. I have five years experience in making custom
glass pipes,jars,cane,marbles,and beads.. you name it. I
have one extra spot in my shop. I charge to learn, and you
need to buy your own glassblowing equiptment. I have an
extra bedroom  in my house on April 1st for a live in
situation for the right person... may accept out of state.... =

Only people who are serious need respond!

(970)407-9194
ROBERT  corbett00@home.com
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From owner-glass Tue Mar  7 08:40:17 2000
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X-Path: pacbell.net!ezbongo2
From: rrk <ezbongo2@pacbell.net>
To: Linda Jo Letscher <andor@ilnk.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: octagon
Date: Tue, 07 Mar 2000 08:34:27 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@mta4.snfc21.pbi.net>>
Precedence: bulk



Linda Jo Letscher wrote:

> I need some handy hints on coming up with a octagon, any size is fine.  We
> can use 18 or 24 inches across..... or whatever.  I need to get the drill
> down as how to draw it to the size I want.   I have 1/4 inch grid graph
> paper, pencil, ruler.  I want to make sure that I have it exact so when I go
> to frame it, I won't run into any trouble.  (I know my framing it may not be
> that super first go round but I will get it.)
>
> I know that the angle I need to cut my wood at is 22.5............but I want
> to make sure my window and zinc are cut correct so the framing will go
> smoothly.  :-)

Hi Linda Jo,

On the practical side ....

This can be done with just a carpenter's framing square
that also serves as a ruler and a stand 45 degree artist's
triangle.  You probably have both of these around
the house/workshop anyway.

Make a square [make sure that it IS square ... exactly.]
Put a little dot by the outside corners.
Connect the diagonals so you'll know where the center is.
Rotate the square by 45 degrees.
Connect the diagonals so you'll be able
to make sure the center of the second placement
is over the center of the first placement.
Put a little dot by the outside corners.
Take a ruler and connect the 8 outside dots.
Voila ... a perfect octagon.

The length of the diagonals of the square
are the outside dimensions of the octagon ...
that is ... they're the length of the circle
the octagon is inscribed in.

HTH ... Bob




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From owner-glass Tue Mar  7 10:00:52 2000
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X-Path: pacifier.com!ptap
From: Pamela Burns-Tappan <ptap@pacifier.com>
To: "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Looking for these artists
Date: Tue, 07 Mar 2000 09:40:05 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Organization: MM Ltd.
Precedence: bulk

Sheri Nickel McHenry
Last location Buena Park, Ca.
Company Artistic Windows

David Martinez
Last location Chinle,AZ
Navajo Glass Art

Mikila Zennon
Last location Mt. Shasta California

David Oppenheimer
Last Location Georgia

Del Paulsen
Last Location Goessel, Kansas, may have moved to Colorado

Russ Strobridge
Last Location California
Specialty antique cars in stained glass

Please notify me if you have any information on these artists. I have
clients who want to contact them for commission work and also clients
who just want to say hello.

Thanks

Pam

--

Ms. Pamela Burns-Tappan
Executive Director
The Stained Glass Artists
http://stainedglassartists.com
A Division of: Moswood Mountain Ltd.
http://moswoodmountainltd.com


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From owner-glass Tue Mar  7 11:32:29 2000
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X-Path: pacifier.com!ptap
From: Pamela Burns-Tappan <ptap@pacifier.com>
To: "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Wanted: Glass Guild and Organizations for SGA reference
Date: Tue, 07 Mar 2000 10:00:15 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Organization: MM Ltd.
Precedence: bulk

Please email me with your state or city glass organization information.
I want to post a comprehensive list of glass guilds, organizations or
informal groups for reference on the SGA website.

List your Organization Name
Email addy and name of person to contact
Website if applicable
And any other info you want to include, such as meeting schedule etc.

Worldwide glass groups and hot glass are welcome to submit as well.

Thanks,

Pam

--

Ms. Pamela Burns-Tappan
Executive Director
The Stained Glass Artists
http://stainedglassartists.com
A Division of: Moswood Mountain Ltd.
http://moswoodmountainltd.com


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From owner-glass Tue Mar  7 19:24:26 2000
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X-Path: usa.com!2citrobio
From: 2citrobio@usa.com
To: 2citrobio@usa.com
Subject: CitroBio, Inc.
Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2000 21:49:53 +0100 (MET)
Message-ID: <200003072049.VAA19108@web.net4music>
Precedence: bulk

March 7, 2000

Dear Food processor/distributor:

Our company, CitroBio, Inc., specializes in an all natural germicide/fungicide that virtually eliminates microorganisms such as
Salmonella, Listeria, E-coli and Staphylococcus from all types of food and processing surfaces, as well.

We feel anyone in the food chain will greatly benefit from the use of our product. CitroBio can be used in virtually every step of the
food processing chain --- from catch to table and from planting to table with all types of food. This broad-spectrum product has been
extensively tested* and was proven to be very effective as both germicide and fungicide.

CitroBio in the United States is FDA/GRAS (Generally Recognized As Safe) APPROVED.

CitroBio in Canada is APPROVED as a food additive.

Virtually every food product will benefit from CitroBio from harvest to consumer table.

                                  Eliminates 99.9% of microorganisms

                                        E-coli --- Salmonella

                                     Listeria --- Staphylococcus

                                               Etc.

Extends Shelf Life of food products allowing the seafood to maintain its fresh, bright appearance.

Eliminates need for the chemical usage of bi-sulfates in seafood, fish, etc.

CitroBio is a natural parasite treatment in all seafood, animals and humans.

Ramifications of CitroBio are comparable to none.

Also, we are presently seeking exclusive national distributors and international licensing agreements. CitroBio is presently licensed in
the following countries:

            Costa Rica                     Guatemala         United States                 Nicaragua                      Belize

            Australia                        Honduras                       El Salvador

For detailed information on CitroBio, visit our website located at http://www.citrobio.com.  For sales, purchasing or distribution
contact, Dr. R. H. Maguire, Toll Free in the US at 800-332-1647 or 941/359-1647, 941/359-8279 (Fax) or DO NOT HIT REPLY!   You
may email your response to mailto:citrobio@usa.com.

Sincerely,



Dr. R. H. Maguire, CEO/President

* Test results are on the website or provided upon request.


----
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From owner-glass Tue Mar  7 19:24:59 2000
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X-Path: usa.com!2citrobio
From: 2citrobio@usa.com
To: 2citrobio@usa.com
Subject: CitroBio, Inc.
Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2000 21:56:29 +0100 (MET)
Message-ID: <200003072056.VAA19235@web.net4music>
Precedence: bulk

March 7, 2000

Dear Food processor/distributor:

Our company, CitroBio, Inc., specializes in an all natural germicide/fungicide that virtually eliminates microorganisms such as
Salmonella, Listeria, E-coli and Staphylococcus from all types of food and processing surfaces, as well.

We feel anyone in the food chain will greatly benefit from the use of our product. CitroBio can be used in virtually every step of the
food processing chain --- from catch to table and from planting to table with all types of food. This broad-spectrum product has been
extensively tested* and was proven to be very effective as both germicide and fungicide.

CitroBio in the United States is FDA/GRAS (Generally Recognized As Safe) APPROVED.

CitroBio in Canada is APPROVED as a food additive.

Virtually every food product will benefit from CitroBio from harvest to consumer table.

                                  Eliminates 99.9% of microorganisms

                                        E-coli --- Salmonella

                                     Listeria --- Staphylococcus

                                               Etc.

Extends Shelf Life of food products allowing the seafood to maintain its fresh, bright appearance.

Eliminates need for the chemical usage of bi-sulfates in seafood, fish, etc.

CitroBio is a natural parasite treatment in all seafood, animals and humans.

Ramifications of CitroBio are comparable to none.

Also, we are presently seeking exclusive national distributors and international licensing agreements. CitroBio is presently licensed in
the following countries:

            Costa Rica                     Guatemala         United States                 Nicaragua                      Belize

            Australia                        Honduras                       El Salvador

For detailed information on CitroBio, visit our website located at http://www.citrobio.com.  For sales, purchasing or distribution
contact, Dr. R. H. Maguire, Toll Free in the US at 800-332-1647 or 941/359-1647, 941/359-8279 (Fax) or DO NOT HIT REPLY!   You
may email your response to mailto:citrobio@usa.com.

Sincerely,



Dr. R. H. Maguire, CEO/President

* Test results are on the website or provided upon request.


----
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From owner-glass Tue Mar  7 19:30:42 2000
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X-Path: sympatico.ca!tandg.higson
From: Anthony Higson <tandg.higson@sympatico.ca>
To: Linda Jo Letscher <andor@ilnk.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: restrip
Date: Tue, 07 Mar 2000 14:21:27 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@l.pop50.bellglobal.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Hi LindaJo
You just can't win with some people even when you are trying to be helpful.And I
whole-heartedly agree with you about trying to produce the best product you
can.Don't give in to the lowest common denominator. Maybe with our effort to do
our best , we can raise the level.
Regards
Gillian

Linda Jo Letscher wrote:

> Well I just had occasion to mention to the cut small pieces of restrip lady,
> about your responses about cutting the 1 inch 2 inche pieces vs. running
> restrip across or up and down a piece.
>
> She was very defensive and I told her I was just offering up information
> from others that sent in their feelings about reinforcement.  She said well
> they don't know everything.  I said no and neither do you, which probably
> isn't what she wanted to hear, but at least if folks offer up a different
> idea at least be open to listening.  I did say you do it your way and I will
> do it mine.  I just wanted to share what information I had gleened.
>
> (I have send her your e-mails compiled into one e-mail, even Charlies which
> felt the pieces were ok, so she doesn't think I am making this stuff up
> which is the feeling I got when I mentioned it to her)
>
> So I guess from now on in, no matter what she does with her glass I will not
> make any other comments or anything.  She knows it all.  Must be nice.  I am
> still learning new and different ways and I try to keep an open mind about
> anything that is discussed about glass.  Never too old to learn a new trick.
>
> I wish reinforcing was as easy as just sliping a few little pieces of cut
> copper down in a few places.  For me ok, but if I am going to be selling
> something for a high price I owe it to the customer to do the very best to
> make sure the thing lasts.
>
> Linda Jo
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

----
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From owner-glass Tue Mar  7 19:45:30 2000
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X-Path: pd.jaring.my!shakabe
From: "Shakeel Abedi" <shakabe@pd.jaring.my>
To: "bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Looking for Jim or his site
Date: Wed, 8 Mar 2000 09:45:55 +0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Jim (if he still around),

I have wanted to visit your site but have lost the address. Does anyone know
his website address. Where all the bungi mail had been archived.

Shakeel


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From owner-glass Tue Mar  7 21:01:41 2000
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X-Path: ilnk.com!andor
From: "Linda Jo Letscher" <andor@ilnk.com>
To: "Bungi" <Glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: restrip
Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2000 17:06:42 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Gillian,
Thanks, I try but sometimes you just have to wonder.  I am not an expert,
but I do the best possible glass I can, and I listen to folks that have more
experience or knowledge.  Plain and simple.  If I hear something that is
more efficient or logical I give it a try.  Oh well.  I had a dear friend
write me and tell me that probably my friend will do the restrip all the way
across but never tell me:-)
Regards,
Linda Jo
-----Original Message-----
From: Anthony Higson <tandg.higson@sympatico.ca>
To: Linda Jo Letscher <andor@ilnk.com>
Cc: Bungi <Glass@bungi.com>
Date: Tuesday, March 07, 2000 2:13 PM
Subject: Re: restrip


>Hi LindaJo
>You just can't win with some people even when you are trying to be
helpful.And I
>whole-heartedly agree with you about trying to produce the best product you
>can.Don't give in to the lowest common denominator. Maybe with our effort
to do
>our best , we can raise the level.
>Regards
>Gillian
>
>Linda Jo Letscher wrote:
>
>> Well I just had occasion to mention to the cut small pieces of restrip
lady,
>> about your responses about cutting the 1 inch 2 inche pieces vs. running
>> restrip across or up and down a piece.
>>
>> She was very defensive and I told her I was just offering up information
>> from others that sent in their feelings about reinforcement.  She said
well
>> they don't know everything.  I said no and neither do you, which probably
>> isn't what she wanted to hear, but at least if folks offer up a different
>> idea at least be open to listening.  I did say you do it your way and I
will
>> do it mine.  I just wanted to share what information I had gleened.
>>
>> (I have send her your e-mails compiled into one e-mail, even Charlies
which
>> felt the pieces were ok, so she doesn't think I am making this stuff up
>> which is the feeling I got when I mentioned it to her)
>>
>> So I guess from now on in, no matter what she does with her glass I will
not
>> make any other comments or anything.  She knows it all.  Must be nice.  I
am
>> still learning new and different ways and I try to keep an open mind
about
>> anything that is discussed about glass.  Never too old to learn a new
trick.
>>
>> I wish reinforcing was as easy as just sliping a few little pieces of cut
>> copper down in a few places.  For me ok, but if I am going to be selling
>> something for a high price I owe it to the customer to do the very best
to
>> make sure the thing lasts.
>>
>> Linda Jo
>>
>> ----
>> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>


----
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From owner-glass Tue Mar  7 21:07:52 2000
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X-Path: aol.com!Bobfuses
From: Bobfuses@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: octagon
Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2000 13:38:05 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

In a message dated 3/7/00 8:41:17 AM Pacific Standard Time, 
ezbongo2@pacbell.net writes:

> Make a square [make sure that it IS square ... exactly.]
>  Put a little dot by the outside corners.
>  Connect the diagonals so you'll know where the center is.
>  Rotate the square by 45 degrees.
>  Connect the diagonals so you'll be able
>  to make sure the center of the second placement
>  is over the center of the first placement.
>  Put a little dot by the outside corners.
>  Take a ruler and connect the 8 outside dots.
>  Voila ... a perfect octagon.

Yes and to prove it all, fold the pattern in half and then in quarters. Every 
thing should line up. It is also a good trick when drawing a centerline on a 
pattern to prove it in this way. Heck, fold the pattern first and then draw 
the centerline. Saves measuring.

Bob in 9 2 0 2 6
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From owner-glass Tue Mar  7 22:36:53 2000
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X-Path: aol.com!Bobfuses
From: Bobfuses@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Glass Craft Expo 2000 in Las Vegas
Date: Wed, 8 Mar 2000 01:16:38 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Glass Craft Expo 2000 is in Las Vegas from 9 to 12 March 2000.

Stop by booth 112 for a cup of coffee and to see some nice fused work. Any 
questions cheerfully answered. I am cooking three candy dishes right now for 
anyone with a sweet tooth.

Bob
Mountain Meadow Stained Glass, Escondido, CA 92026
----
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From owner-glass Tue Mar  7 23:30:37 2000
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X-Path: ilnk.com!andor
From: "Linda Jo Letscher" <andor@ilnk.com>
To: <Bobfuses@aol.com>,
Subject: Re: Glass Craft Expo 2000 in Las Vegas
Date: Wed, 8 Mar 2000 01:52:03 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Have a good time this year Bob.  Sure wish I could make it, but don't think
I will.  But for sure I will look you up when I get to sourthern California
to see family.  My best friend is in Oceanside.  Heaven only knows when that
will be.
Take care, and enjoy the Vegas Show.
Linda Jo

-----Original Message-----
From: Bobfuses@aol.com <Bobfuses@aol.com>
To: glass@bungi.com <glass@bungi.com>
Date: Wednesday, March 08, 2000 1:49 AM
Subject: Glass Craft Expo 2000 in Las Vegas


>Glass Craft Expo 2000 is in Las Vegas from 9 to 12 March 2000.
>
>Stop by booth 112 for a cup of coffee and to see some nice fused work. Any
>questions cheerfully answered. I am cooking three candy dishes right now
for
>anyone with a sweet tooth.
>
>Bob
>Mountain Meadow Stained Glass, Escondido, CA 92026
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


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From owner-glass Wed Mar  8 06:12:21 2000
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X-Path: sol.racsa.co.cr!rlaval
From: Richard LaVal <rlaval@sol.racsa.co.cr>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Subject: lamp
Date: Tue, 07 Mar 2000 20:12:45 -0600
Message-ID: <3.0.6.32.20000307201245.007d1100@pop.racsa.co.cr>
Precedence: bulk

Dear friends,
	Thanks for all the anwers re:studio use fees.  Here is another question.
	A client wants a large 2 foot? diameter lamp for the focal part of her
restaurant.  BUT she wants it "upside down"   like a bowl hanging  right
side up from the ceiling, with the lights inside.... and hanging down on a
chain or something.... I want to make sure it is safe and strong... I have
not made many lamps, and certianly not one that big and "upside down".  It
can be a panel lamp. .... I am not even sure I can picture the hardware!
Thanks... Meg

	PS.  very busy lately with several commisions, and local teachers coming
in to "play".  I hope they at least take mosaic work back to their
classrooms.  Anyone coming this way care to visit? =20

ppss:  several months ago, I enquied about forms and such for tiffany
reproductions... we successfully finished a 24" peony lampshade before the
orders for this new batch of windows arrived... thanks for the help on that
too.
=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=
=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=
=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=
=BA
=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA=BA
RICHARD AND MEG LAVAL
Apdo 24-5655
Monteverde
COSTA RICA

PHONE 645-5052 or 645-5419
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From owner-glass Wed Mar  8 07:30:45 2000
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From: Bobfuses@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Re: lamp
Date: Wed, 8 Mar 2000 10:17:20 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

In a message dated 3/8/00 6:13:09 AM Pacific Standard Time, 
rlaval@sol.racsa.co.cr writes:

> A client wants a large 2 foot? diameter lamp for the focal part of her
> restaurant.  BUT she wants it "upside down"   like a bowl hanging  right
> side up from the ceiling, with the lights inside.... and hanging down on a
> chain or something.... I want to make sure it is safe and strong.

I made such a lamp about 30 inches in diameter. Used a 1/8" brass rod bent to 
run around the inside of the lamp where the skirt starts. The rod was 
soldered at many points. Three lengths of chain connected from the rod to one 
central chain from which hung a chain with the electric cord woven in it.

Bob in 9 2 0 2 6
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From owner-glass Wed Mar  8 07:41:11 2000
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Subject: Re: octagon
Date: Wed, 8 Mar 2000 10:32:59 EST
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Dixit ezbongo2@pacbell.net:

>> Make a square [snip]
>>  Voila ... a perfect octagon.

Respondit Bobfuses@aol.com

>Yes and to prove it all, fold the pattern in half and then in quarters.
>[...] Heck, fold the pattern first and then draw 
>the centerline. Saves measuring.

If you want to be really accurate about it, instead of folding and refolding, 
do only one fold at a time and open the paper back up before doing the next 
fold. Once you've got it creased in quarters, do subsequent folds by matching 
crease lines.


Sparks
    occasional dabbler in origami
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From owner-glass Wed Mar  8 08:11:19 2000
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X-Path: gdi.net!shodge
From: Skip Hodge <shodge@gdi.net>
To: Bobfuses@aol.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: lamp
Date: Wed, 08 Mar 2000 10:58:17 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Bobfuses@aol.com wrote:
> 
> In a message dated 3/8/00 6:13:09 AM Pacific Standard Time,
> rlaval@sol.racsa.co.cr writes:
> 
> > A client wants a large 2 foot? diameter lamp for the focal part of her
> > restaurant.  BUT she wants it "upside down"   like a bowl hanging  right
> > side up from the ceiling, with the lights inside.... and hanging down on a
> > chain or something.... I want to make sure it is safe and strong.
> 
> I made such a lamp about 30 inches in diameter. Used a 1/8" brass rod bent to
> run around the inside of the lamp where the skirt starts. The rod was
> soldered at many points. Three lengths of chain connected from the rod to one
> central chain from which hung a chain with the electric cord woven in it.
> 
> Bob in 9 2 0 2 6
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


I also USe 1/8" brass rod around the entire bottom edge of my
reproduction lamps. It really beefs them up not to mention the clean
crisp edge to rest the shade on.

Skip 
Southern Exposure Stained Glass Supply, Inc
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From owner-glass Wed Mar  8 10:00:58 2000
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From: Bobfuses@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: lamp
Date: Wed, 8 Mar 2000 12:28:37 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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In a message dated 3/8/00 8:12:16 AM Pacific Standard Time, shodge@gdi.net 
writes:

> I also Use 1/8" brass rod around the entire bottom edge of my
> reproduction lamps. It really beefs them up not to mention the clean
>  crisp edge to rest the shade on.
>  
>  Skip 
>  Southern Exposure Stained Glass Supply, Inc

Around the bottom of the skirt is cool.

I was thinking of a lamp shade that has a skirt of about three inches. There 
I attached the brass ring at what could be called the top of the skirt where 
the skirt joins the panels when the lamp shade is in the usual position. 

Bob in 9 2 0 2 6
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From owner-glass Wed Mar  8 11:01:20 2000
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From: GlasLdy@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="part1_b9.149a59d.25f7f894_boundary"
Subject: Window wanted
Date: Wed, 8 Mar 2000 13:40:20 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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I have a panel up for bid on eBay and this lady (letter below) contacted me 
to do a different kind of window.....she lives in Washington state .  I am 
much too busy to take on anything right now so I asked her if I could post it 
on bungi and to expect alot of mail.  I think someone close to her should do 
it because of the cost of shipping.
Good luck,
Janice
..............................................................................
................
In a message dated 3/8/00 5:39:20 PM !!!First Boot!!!, LmnDrop1 writes:
Subj:   Stained glass
Date:   3/7/00 7:00:13 PM !!!First Boot!!!
From:   LmnDrop1
To: GlasLdy

Hi,

I saw your stained glass panel at the Ebay auction. I'm looking for one that 
is a little larger...like 25X25 or somewhere in there...using lots of 
beautiful red and yellow's...

I wasn't sure if you made these or know of someone who does?

Thanks,

Tracy aka Lmndrop1@aol.com
<< Subj:    Re: Stained glass
 Date:  3/8/00 5:39:20 PM !!!First Boot!!!
 From:  LmnDrop1
 To:    GlasLdy
 
 Hi Janice,
 
 I'm thinking now since I've measured the window to be 36" X 40", that 
perhaps you could make a larger stained glass window to fit this 
window...hanging from the top...
 
 
 Do you make other designs? My home is light yellow with white trim and red 
looks fantastic as an accent. The window is in the front of the house facing 
the street side just above the front door.  I want something really beautiful 
to hang...any ideas?
 
 Thanks Janice,
 
 Tracy >>


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Date: Wed, 8 Mar 2000 12:39:20 EST
Subject: Re: Stained glass
To: GlasLdy@aol.com
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Hi Janice,

I'm thinking now since I've measured the window to be 36" X 40", that perhaps 
you could make a larger stained glass window to fit this window...hanging 
from the top...


Do you make other designs? My home is light yellow with white trim and red 
looks fantastic as an accent. The window is in the front of the house facing 
the street side just above the front door.  I want something really beautiful 
to hang...any ideas?

Thanks Janice,

Tracy

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From owner-glass Wed Mar  8 15:03:15 2000
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From: "Elena Rodríguez" <elere@clientes.euskaltel.es>
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Subject: acid etching 
Date: Wed, 08 Mar 2000 23:51:58 +0100
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Hello everyone
I wonder if anyone can tell me or refer to information on how to give a
mat look to ordinary transparent glass, in particular the kind used in
flasks; a friend recycles them putting a bulb inside and has tried
aplying some kind of acid but failes to get an even translucent/mat
effect. Any idea on how to get it and/or what with? Thanks a lot in
advance.
Elena in Bilbao

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From owner-glass Wed Mar  8 17:00:55 2000
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Bobfuses@aol.com
Subject: Re: lamp
Date: Wed, 8 Mar 2000 22:49:03 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk

It is also possible to use a central ceiling fitting, which fits into
the ceiling rose, the cord comes down the tube, which branches out into
three or five bulb holders, and continues on to accept a vase cap
fitting (only a little more beefy than the thin brass ones)
Steve
In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, Bobfuses@aol.com writes
>In a message dated 3/8/00 8:12:16 AM Pacific Standard Time, shodge@gdi.net 
>writes:
>
>> I also Use 1/8" brass rod around the entire bottom edge of my
>> reproduction lamps. It really beefs them up not to mention the clean
>>  crisp edge to rest the shade on.
>>  
>>  Skip 
>>  Southern Exposure Stained Glass Supply, Inc
>
>Around the bottom of the skirt is cool.
>
>I was thinking of a lamp shade that has a skirt of about three inches. There 
>I attached the brass ring at what could be called the top of the skirt where 
>the skirt joins the panels when the lamp shade is in the usual position. 
>
>Bob in 9 2 0 2 6
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Wed Mar  8 18:30:59 2000
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X-Path: teleport.com!weaver51
From: "Howard" <weaver51@teleport.com>
To: "Richard LaVal" <rlaval@sol.racsa.co.cr>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: lamp
Date: Wed, 8 Mar 2000 18:02:23 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<3.0.6.32.20000307201245.007d1100@pop.racsa.co.cr>>
Organization: weaver51@teleport.com
Precedence: bulk

I lean towards a rod type installation, rather than chain.

dressing up the bottom edge (open part of the shade facing up) will not make
the shade hang any better.
If you are going to attach hooks to the vertical solder lines, at a joint of
the change of planes will be the strongest part.
Also another suggestion is to use 2 vase caps, one inside and one out side.

a good method is the Odyssey style of a heavy brass ring soldered into the
small opening and using the wheel for the rod attachment on the outside.
That can be covered with a cap large enough go over the wheel and the rod
extends through the hole to fasten the cap on.

H
weaver51@teleport.com
Elaine and Howard
best lamps on the "net":
http://www.teleport.com/~cbs/howard

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From owner-glass Wed Mar  8 18:32:36 2000
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From owner-glass Wed Mar  8 18:55:43 2000
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Subject: For Brad Walker
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Hey Brad, I got your mail returned!! What's up?

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aWRlIG9wZW4uLi4gQW0gSSBzdXBwb3NlZCB0byBkcmlsbCBhbmQgaG9sZSBpbiB0aGUgDQpjb250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--_=_=_=IMA.BOUNDARY.FR4OM2138764=_=_=_--
----
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From owner-glass Thu Mar  9 02:08:26 2000
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	for rglass-42; Thu, 9 Mar 2000 02:02:15 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #118 built 2000-Mar-8)
X-Path: juno.com!gmacfarland
From: gmacfarland@juno.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Gatewayed mail message
Date: Thu, 09 Mar 2000 00:20:06 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hi Bungis,
  I am going to Charlotte, NC this weekend and I was wondering if anyone
knew of any glass suppliers that sell to retail anywhere around there. 
If you would drop me a line I would appreciate it.  I have been lurking
for a long while and picking up tips here and there.  Thanks for any
help. You are welcome to contact me at my email address.
Gail 
gmacfarland@juno.com

________________________________________________________________
YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET!
Juno now offers FREE Internet Access!
Try it today - there's no risk!  For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
----
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From owner-glass Thu Mar  9 09:32:53 2000
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	for rglass-42; Thu, 9 Mar 2000 09:02:19 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #119 built 2000-Mar-9)
X-Path: ceps.nasm.edu!jellison
From: Pat Jellison <jellison@ceps.nasm.edu>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: These spam messages (NG)
Date: Thu, 09 Mar 2000 11:58:06 -0500
Message-ID: <38C7D81E.97B2E8C5@ceps.nasm.edu>
Precedence: bulk

Glenna and all,

I need to add my voice to those who've asked if Bungi
can't somehow filter out the spam, especially the
porn spam.  I'm primarily a lurker and I'm learning
so much from this list, but my email goes through the
server at my work and they take a very dim view of
such messages (especially since they archive
ALL email traffic!) -- which means that I'm going to
have to drop off Bungi if nothing changes.

I realize I'm in the minority as far as that goes,
but I just don't understand why such stuff appears
on Bungi when it never gets through on the other lists I
participate in.

Hoping for help --

PJ Jellison
----
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From owner-glass Thu Mar  9 09:35:05 2000
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	for rglass-42; Thu, 9 Mar 2000 09:03:28 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #119 built 2000-Mar-9)
X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: lamp
Date: Thu, 9 Mar 2000 11:58:17 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Message text written by Richard LaVal
>       A client wants a large 2 foot? diameter lamp for the focal part o=
f
her
restaurant.  BUT she wants it "upside down"   like a bowl hanging  right
side up from the ceiling, with the lights inside.... and hanging down on =
a
chain or something.... I want to make sure it is safe and strong... I hav=
e
not made many lamps, and certianly not one that big and "upside down".  I=
t
can be a panel lamp. .... I am not even sure I can picture the hardware!<=


I visited the Delaware Art Museum a couple of times this winter, since th=
ey
had a Tiffany Lamp exhibit (about 50 original lamps in 3 rooms - wow!). =

One
was an unside down bowl type - it was all dragonflies with a very large
Favrile nugget in the bottom center.  It's called "Multiple Dragonflies
Chandelier",
and I'm looking at a photo of it in the catalog from the show.

 Picture in your mind a large round Tiffany lampshade, except it's
upside down and there is a large chunk of glass where the cap is
supposed to be.  The rim (facing the ceiling) has a large metal
band on it, with holes drilled through the band.  Hanging chain
suspends the lampshade with hooks through these holes.  Chandelier
lighting hardware comes down inside the lampshade "bowl".

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
North Wales, PA USA
----
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From owner-glass Thu Mar  9 09:52:42 2000
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	for rglass-42; Thu, 9 Mar 2000 09:42:32 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #119 built 2000-Mar-9)
X-Path: dlr
From: dlr@above.net (Dave Rand)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: As a reminder...
Date: Thu, 9 Mar 2000 09:41:56 PST
Message-ID: <m12T6wg-0000SmC@daver.bungi.com>
Precedence: bulk

Just so that people are reminded once again....

Every time spam shows up on the list, Glenna forwards it to me.  I add more
filters.  I do _extensive_ filtering of the list.  Because I am so
(violently, some might say) opposed to spam, bungi.com as a whole becomes a
common target for spammers.

Over the last few days, for example, many _thousands_ of messages were
blocked on this server.  We also employ the RBL to block messages from known
spam sources - these messages never even reach the server here.  Of
the messages that reached here yesterday, for example, we stopped:

Total spams received: 2622

That's in one 24 hour period.  Some 6.5 megabytes of spam.  

Over the last 5 days (weekends are almost always the worst), we stopped over
7,000 messages (20 megabytes) of spam directly, _not including_ the spam
that got stopped by the RBL filters from ever reaching here (estimated at
over 500 megabytes).  

Spam is a serious problem, and you need to _always_ complain about it, when
you receive it directly.  When it comes from the list, know that we have
added it to the filters.  Thanks for your understanding, and feel free
to write Glenna or me directly about further issues.

Yesterday, here are some of the suject: lines that we stopped.

Subject:  Product Listing for 2/16/2000
Subject:  Re: We do not do business with spammers [ABOV-459941]
Subject:  Spam report (was: WTS: Hot Desktops and Parts!! 2/25/2000)
Subject:  WTS:  Hot Desktops and Notebooks!!  2/29/2000
Subject:  WTS:  Hot Desktops and Notebooks!!  3/2/2000
Subject:  WTS:  Hot Desktops and Parts!!  2/25/2000
Subject:  WTS:  Hot Desktops!!  2/21/2000
Subject:  WTS:  Hot Notebooks and Desktops!!  2/17/2000
Subject:  WTS:  Hot Notebooks and Parts!!  2/28/2000
Subject:  WTS:  Notebook Parts!!!  2/16/2000
Subject:  WTS:  Notebooks!!!  2/4/2000
Subject:  WTS: Hot Desktops!! 2/21/2000
Subject:  WTS: Notebook Parts!!! 2/16/2000
Subject:  WTS: Notebooks!!! 2/4/2000
Subject: ** 21 yr. old Govt Contr' offers 100K per year income +
Subject: ***NEED A DEGREE FAST LIKE NOW***
Subject: ***NEED A DEGREE FAST LIKE TODAY***
Subject: **NEED A DEGREE FAST LIKE NOW**
Subject: -Here is what  you wanted
Subject: -Here. is. what you asked. for
Subject: -I think you will find this of interest--from John
Subject: -John said to send this to you
Subject: 50k in 90 days
Subject: >> WANT TO BE A MILLIONAIRE <<<
                78UY6TY
Subject: >> WANT TO BE A MILLIONAIRE <<<
                78UY6TY [Blocked]
Subject: ADV: 75,000,000...
Subject: Accept All Major Credit Cards!!!
Subject: Accepting Credit Cards?
Subject: Accepting Credit Cards??
Subject: Accepting Credit Cards??..??
Subject: Accepting Credit Cards??.??
Subject: Accepting Credit Cards????
Subject: Accepting Credit Cards?????
Subject: Are You Accepting Credit Cards?.?
Subject: Are You Accepting Credit Cards?.?.?
Subject: Are You Accepting Credit Cards??
Subject: Be Your Own Boss! Work From Home Now!
Subject: Become a Judgement Processing Professional
                      - (18138)
Subject: Condidentiality Assured
Subject: Congratulations !!! You Qualify !!!
Subject: Covertly turn Red Traffic Signals Green from vehicle. -lxeiuepkydk
Subject: Credit Card Merchant Account! You're Approved!!
Subject: Discover Hidden Secrets About Your Neighbors
Subject: Do You Accept Credit Cards?
Subject: Do You Accept Credit Cards??
Subject: Do You Accept Credit Cards???
Subject: Do You Accept Credit Cards????
Subject: Do You Accept Credit Cards?????
Subject: Do You Have All the Sales You Can Handle.?
Subject: Do You Have All the Sales You Can Handle.?.
Subject: Do You Have All the Sales You Can Handle.?.....
Subject: Do You Have All the Sales You Can Handle.??.?
Subject: Do You Have All the Sales You Can Handle.???
Subject: FLAT RATE LONG DISTANCE GUARANTEED!
Subject: Follow Me To Real Financial Freedom!
Subject: For Serious Marketers ONLY!
Subject: Fw: Thought you would like to see this:  Tim
Subject: Fwd: [WIVES & MOMS WANTED..FOR WORK AT HOME JOBS]
Subject: GO ANYWHERE !
Subject: Get Your Share Of More Than 375 Million Online Sales
Subject: Guaranteed credit card acceptance!
Subject: Guaranteed way to quickly have EXCELLENT CREDIT!!
Subject: Have a Truck or Car?? Bet you don't have THIS!! PLEASE READ! -fenig
Subject: Have a Truck or Car?? Bet you don't have THIS!! PLEASE READ! -txul
Subject: Here is the  info you wanted
Subject: Here is the information  you  wanted
Subject: Here is. what. you wanted
Subject: How to improve your company's value".
Subject: I think this is the info you wanted
Subject: Increase Your Sales!!!
Subject: Info you  requested!
Subject: Info. you requested
Subject: International Drivers Licence
Subject: Judy told us to send this to you
Subject: Looking For Financial Freedom?
Subject: Low cost merchant account and Your Logo Bonus               -       890
0988
Subject: Low cost merchant account and shirt Bonus                -        0788m
nbr
Subject: MAKE BIG PROFITS.......... -dvapmv
Subject: Money is the Root Of All Evil!
Subject: NEED A DEGREE FAST LIKE NOW
Subject: NEED A DEGREE FAST LIKE NOW!!
Subject: NEED A DEGREE FAST LIKE NOW!!!
Subject: NEED A DEGREE FAST LIKE TODAY
Subject: NEED A DEGREE FAST LIKE TODAY!!
Subject: NEED A DEGREE FAST LIKE TODAY!!!
Subject: NEED A DEGREE FAST LIKE TODAY!!!!
Subject: NEED I.D.?
Subject: New Device, Turn Red traffic Signals Green! Read -siwtyxretpk
Subject: New Device, Turn Red traffic Signals Green! Read -uvtjknrx
Subject: Offshore Wealth!!!!!
Subject: PLEASE READ>>Have a Truck or Car, it's nothing without THIS! -jscmvexno
Subject: Planes, Trains, & Automobiles! What do they all have in common?
Subject: Product Listing for 2/16/2000
Subject: Prosperous Future
Subject: Re: What you  wanted!
Subject: Re: Your request
Subject: Tom told us to send this to you
Subject: Turn Red traffic lights green..Time Sensitive & Urgent Please Read! -fv
meck
Subject: Turn Red traffic lights green..Time Sensitive & Urgent Please Read! -nn
kwbnra
Subject: Turn Red traffic lights green..Time Sensitive & Urgent Please Read! -vf
lq
Subject: Turn Red traffic lights green..Time Sensitive & Urgent Please Read! -vl
erq
Subject: Version 5.0 is Now Available
Subject: WIVES & MOMS WANTED..FOR STAY AT HOME JOBS..
Subject: WTS: Hot Desktops and Notebooks!! 2/29/2000
Subject: WTS: Hot Desktops and Notebooks!! 3/2/2000
Subject: WTS: Hot Desktops!! 2/21/2000
Subject: WTS: Hot Notebooks and Desktops!! 2/17/2000
Subject: WTS: Hot Notebooks and Parts!! 2/28/2000
Subject: WTS: Notebook Parts!!! 2/16/2000
Subject: WTS: Notebooks!!! 2/4/2000
Subject: We buy uncollected Judgments
Subject: Work From The Comfort Of Your Home!
Subject: You're Approved for a Merchant Account and a FREE Vacation!
Subject: [ABOV-459941], [ABOV-459933] and others
Subject: [Re:] $100,000 your first year!
Subject: ~~~Save up to 70% on Your Life Insurance -FREE Quote
                       +a#nkjshc    ~~~
Subject:BigEasy User Tip: Send Screens to Your Friends

-- 
Dave Rand
Senior Vice President & CTO, Above.net
A subsidiary of Metromedia Fiber Network, Inc.     NASDAQ: MFNX
----
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From owner-glass Thu Mar  9 10:55:36 2000
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
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	for rglass-42; Thu, 9 Mar 2000 10:48:32 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #119 built 2000-Mar-9)
X-Path: ceps.nasm.edu!jellison
From: Pat Jellison <jellison@ceps.nasm.edu>
To: soleim@oregon.uoregon.edu, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: These spam messages (NG)
Date: Thu, 09 Mar 2000 13:44:06 -0500
Message-ID: <38C7F0F5.51297405@ceps.nasm.edu>
References: <<38C7E5B4.2A0975A3@oregon.uoregon.edu>>
Precedence: bulk

Hi Sherrie, and Dave,

Thanks for the support, and thanks for the reminder about all you do to filter
spam out.  If I do drop the list, please understand that it won't be because
I'm in a snit about it (all other things being equal, I know where my "delete"
key is) -- but because I'm worried about such stuff being associated
with me
in my work's email archives.

Thanks,
PJ Jellison


Sherrie Soleim wrote:
> 
> It's because this is an open list that anyone can post to.  Many other lists are at least
> somewhat moderated and so much of the spam gets filtered out.  It is beyond annoying and I
> reported the latest one to Yahoo since that was the return address, however even they
> cannot prevent it from happening again.  I hope you do not decide to drop this list just
> because of a little spam, regardless of the content of such spam.
> 
> Sherrie.
> 
> Pat Jellison wrote:
> 
> > Glenna and all,
> >
> > I need to add my voice to those who've asked if Bungi
> > can't somehow filter out the spam, especially the
> > porn spam.  I'm primarily a lurker and I'm learning
> > so much from this list, but my email goes through the
> > server at my work and they take a very dim view of
> > such messages (especially since they archive
> > ALL email traffic!) -- which means that I'm going to
> > have to drop off Bungi if nothing changes.
> >
> > I realize I'm in the minority as far as that goes,
> > but I just don't understand why such stuff appears
> > on Bungi when it never gets through on the other lists I
> > participate in.
> >
> > Hoping for help --
> >
> > PJ Jellison
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> 
> --
> <><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>
> Sherrie L. Soleim
> University of Oregon
> Library Personnel Services
> soleim@oregon.uoregon.edu
> <><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>
----
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From owner-glass Thu Mar  9 12:31:04 2000
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
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	id <m12T9Mx-0000V9a@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Thu, 9 Mar 2000 12:17:15 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #119 built 2000-Mar-9)
X-Path: home.com!cecnralph
From: Cecily and Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Subject: Re: blank messages [ng]
Date: Thu, 09 Mar 2000 14:51:59 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Organization: Grendel Studios
Precedence: bulk

I can tell you one possible reason, after having used my mother's AOL
(Mac) account.  On the AOL 4.0 mail window, the Reply button transforms
into the Send button.  Same exact place in the window.  That means if
the person absent mindedly double clicked on the Reply button, it also
sent - and of course the message would be blank.  Does this also occur
on PCs? - Cec

--
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************


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From owner-glass Thu Mar  9 15:44:42 2000
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
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	for rglass-42; Thu, 9 Mar 2000 15:41:55 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #119 built 2000-Mar-9)
X-Path: aol.com!BMarhon
From: BMarhon@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: These spam messages (NG)
Date: Thu, 9 Mar 2000 18:40:22 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

I must be on a different list - I never get any porn!  

Uh, but could you forward that one about the red lights?  I could really use 
it!
(Just kidding!)

Brenda

<< Subj:     These spam messages (NG)
 Date:  3/9/00 12:33:42 PM Eastern Standard Time
 From:  jellison@ceps.nasm.edu (Pat Jellison)
 To:    glass@bungi.com
 
 Glenna and all,
 
 I need to add my voice to those who've asked if Bungi
 can't somehow filter out the spam, especially the
 porn spam.  I'm primarily a lurker and I'm learning
 so much from this list, but my email goes through the
 server at my work and they take a very dim view of
 such messages (especially since they archive
 ALL email traffic!) -- which means that I'm going to
 have to drop off Bungi if nothing changes.
 
 I realize I'm in the minority as far as that goes,
 but I just don't understand why such stuff appears
 on Bungi when it never gets through on the other lists I
 participate in.
 
 Hoping for help -- >>
----
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From owner-glass Thu Mar  9 19:19:11 2000
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	for rglass-42; Thu, 9 Mar 2000 19:00:24 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #120 built 2000-Mar-9)
X-Path: mail2.nai.net!shad
From: Family Account <shad@mail2.nai.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: One of the nice things about doing stained glass
Date: Thu, 09 Mar 2000 21:58:35 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

 Our first craft fair of the year is on the 18th and we are busily
getting ready.  At the moment, the dining room table has several lamps
and clocks sitting on it, and the windows have our newest suncatchers
and framed hangings in them.  Our 19 year old daughter had a bunch of
friends over tonight (getting ready to go dancing - yes, on a Thursday)
and John started showing off some of the newest creations.  There was a
satisfying and resounding chorus of "OOhs" and "Awws" and some of them
sounded quite sincere! So our egos are stroked for the next few days.

(Sorry, I don't remember who had the e-mail go through work...would
picking up a free mail box at yahoo or hotmail - then getting bungi mail
sent there - help?)

(Dave, sounds like you are doing an incredible job...It sounds like
there's just more spam than there are people in the USA.)

Dorothy and her happy ego are now going to bed.

(Go, UConn)

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From owner-glass Thu Mar  9 19:54:15 2000
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
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	for rglass-42; Thu, 9 Mar 2000 19:34:03 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #120 built 2000-Mar-9)
X-Path: worldnet.att.net!Moya-Don
From: "D. ONeal" <Moya-Don@worldnet.att.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Porn Spam
Date: Thu, 9 Mar 2000 22:30:06 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

PJ,
Add me to the list.  I definitely do not care to have porn sent to my home
or office.  If I were to want it, I am sure I could find it.  I think any
one who wants it can do the same.  Tagging it onto a specific interest list
that is interested in pornography should not be allowed.
There is my 2 cents worth.  Thanks for letting me vent.
Moya

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From owner-glass Thu Mar  9 20:04:20 2000
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	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #120 built 2000-Mar-9)
X-Path: worldnet.att.net!Moya-Don
From: "D. ONeal" <Moya-Don@worldnet.att.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Filtering
Date: Thu, 9 Mar 2000 22:37:05 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Dave,
Thanks for all your hard work in filtering, but I REALLY hate porn spam
worse than any other kind.
Moya

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From owner-glass Thu Mar  9 21:05:28 2000
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X-Path: ilnk.com!andor
From: "Linda Jo Letscher" <andor@ilnk.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: Porn Spam
Date: Thu, 9 Mar 2000 23:13:54 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

What I wonder is why these degenerates seem to think we would even be
interested in there trash porn spam.  Like you say if we want porno I am
sure we could find it on our own if not we could as a teenager.  I have
decided if I keep getting a lot of spam (part started when I put some stuff
for sale on e-bay, but that was credit card accepting stuff) I will just
change my e-mail address and not give it to anyone but personal friends.  I
kept fairly anonymous until the last year, so I have had 5 years spamless.
I have a yahoo address but I just hate the format of looking at e-mail on
it.
Later,
Linda Jo
Guess that is pretty good.

-----Original Message-----
From: D. ONeal <Moya-Don@worldnet.att.net>
To: glass@bungi.com <glass@bungi.com>
Date: Thursday, March 09, 2000 11:10 PM
Subject: Porn Spam


>PJ,
>Add me to the list.  I definitely do not care to have porn sent to my home
>or office.  If I were to want it, I am sure I could find it.  I think any
>one who wants it can do the same.  Tagging it onto a specific interest list
>that is interested in pornography should not be allowed.
>There is my 2 cents worth.  Thanks for letting me vent.
>Moya
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


----
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From owner-glass Thu Mar  9 21:26:42 2000
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X-Path: aol.com!Bobfuses
From: Bobfuses@aol.com
To: BMarhon@aol.com, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: These spam messages (NG)
Date: Thu, 9 Mar 2000 23:30:45 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

In a message dated 3/9/00 3:45:22 PM Pacific Standard Time, BMarhon@aol.com 
writes:

> I must be on a different list - I never get any porn! 

It has been a long time since I have received any porn on bungi. A few days 
ago someone wanted to help me make money and another guy had an instant 
degree program and yet someone else wanted to list my name somewhere but NO 
porn,

The idea about getting something like a yahoo account to keep the boss at bay 
seems like a good one. 

In Las Vegas for Glass Craft Expo 2000. Will send in a report or two when it 
gets going. We set up the booth today. It opens to the public at 1:00 PM 
tomorrow.

Bob in 9 2 0 2 6
When you get an email that asks you to "send it to everyone you know," please 
forget that you know me.
----
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From owner-glass Thu Mar  9 21:40:39 2000
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X-Path: juno.com!nbg3755
From: Nancy B Gildersleeve <nbg3755@juno.com>
To: dlr@above.net
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: Re: As a reminder...
Date: Thu, 9 Mar 2000 19:49:49 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

For David Rand:

Thanks for your letter about the Bungi list spam.  I really appreciate
what you are doing.  I had no idea that so much spam was received and
removed before we had to read it!  It is truly an overwhelming problem
and I appreciate your help in trying to get it under control.

Nancy Gildersleeve
----
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From owner-glass Fri Mar 10 07:38:07 2000
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X-Path: alpha.nad.adelphia.net!alewis
From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@alpha.nad.adelphia.net>
To: "(glass people)" < (info@cdvkiln.com)>
Subject: No more new glass books by email
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@pop.nad.adelphia.net>
Date: Fri, 10 Mar 2000 08:04:33 +0000
Message-ID: <200003101307.IAA11513@alpha.nad.adelphia.net>
Precedence: bulk

Hi, there.

Since we were roundly chastised by a few people for letting glass 
people know about new glass books, this is just a note to let you 
know that we won't be contacting you this way any longer. 

If you'd *like to get that kind of news every few weeks, you'll have 
to sign up for it at http://aiap.com/search.htm#listbot 

All you do is type in your email address and click on the "Join List" 
button to subscribe. Unsubscribing's just as easy. You're the boss.

The first announcement's up already (turns out there's many more than 
*one glass painting book!) if you want to check the message archive. 
(You can do that after you've signed up, natch.) <smile>

Cheers!


Albert

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From owner-glass Fri Mar 10 12:57:24 2000
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Elena Rodrguez <elere@clientes.euskaltel.es>
Subject: Re: acid etching
Date: Fri, 10 Mar 2000 20:29:30 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk

Elena,
        I find that I have to keep agitating the acid paste throughout
the five minute period it takes the acid to work completely.  the
movement of the brush should be in all directions.

Steve

In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, Elena Rodrguez
<elere@clientes.euskaltel.es> writes
>Hello everyone
>I wonder if anyone can tell me or refer to information on how to give a
>mat look to ordinary transparent glass, in particular the kind used in
>flasks; a friend recycles them putting a bulb inside and has tried
>aplying some kind of acid but failes to get an even translucent/mat
>effect. Any idea on how to get it and/or what with? Thanks a lot in
>advance.
>Elena in Bilbao
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
----
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From owner-glass Fri Mar 10 15:37:57 2000
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X-Path: aol.com!Depdee70
From: Depdee70@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Religious patterns
Date: Fri, 10 Mar 2000 18:08:49 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

I do small  stained glass windows for my church and am looking for Religious 
patterns for the church...could you hepl me or someone else?????                
    thanks a lot                                                    Dee         
                depdee70@aol.com
----
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From owner-glass Sat Mar 11 02:49:44 2000
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X-Path: clientes.euskaltel.es!elere
From: "Elena Rodríguez" <elere@clientes.euskaltel.es>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="------------8886AEABAA2A1C618080908D"
Subject: [Fwd: acid etching]
Date: Sat, 11 Mar 2000 11:47:59 +0100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Este es un mensaje multipartes en formato MIME.
--------------8886AEABAA2A1C618080908D
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Hello Charlie and all bungians
And thanks a lot everyone who answered my query on how to get a mat
finish on
ordinary glass flasks; everyone seems to agree that sandblasting is the
best
way to do it. I saw some time ago a wonderful page showing someone's
home made
sandblasting cabinet; does anyone know the mentioned page's address? I
wonder
if the compressor used can be one of those used for spray painting or
not. Also what
special aditional equipment is necessary for sandblasting glass? Thank
you in advance.
Best regards
Elena in Bilbao

--------------8886AEABAA2A1C618080908D
Content-Type: message/rfc822
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
Content-Disposition: inline

Message-ID: <38C8EB29.963DE3F0@clientes.euskaltel.es>
Date: Fri, 10 Mar 2000 13:31:37 +0100
From: "Elena Rodríguez" <elere@clientes.euskaltel.es>
Reply-To: elere@clientes.euskaltel.es
X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.03 [es]C-EKT-V1.0  (Win95; I)
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie_Spitzer@stratus.com>
Subject: Re: acid etching
References: <75F036A5970CD311A993009027283DC4BA1F37@exphx.az.stratus.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

Hello Charlie and all bungians
And thanks a lot everyone who answered my query on how to get a mat finish on
ordinary glass flasks; everyone seems to agree that sandblasting is the best
way to do it. I saw some time ago a wonderful page showing someone's home made
sandblasting cabinet; does anyone know the mentioned page's address? I wonder
if the compressor used can be one used for spray painting or not. Also what
special equipment is necessary for sandblasting glass? Thank you in advance.
Best regards
Elena in Bilbao

Spitzer, Charlie escribió:

> it's done with hydrofluoric acid. extremely dangerous stuff. you can easily
> kill yourself with a couple of drops on your skin. you can do this using
> sandblasting much more safely.
>
> regards,
> charlie
> phx, az
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Elena Rodrmguez [mailto:elere@clientes.euskaltel.es]
> Sent: Wednesday, March 08, 2000 3:52 PM
> To: Bungi
> Subject: acid etching
>
> Hello everyone
> I wonder if anyone can tell me or refer to information on how to give a
> mat look to ordinary transparent glass, in particular the kind used in
> flasks; a friend recycles them putting a bulb inside and has tried
> aplying some kind of acid but failes to get an even translucent/mat
> effect. Any idea on how to get it and/or what with? Thanks a lot in
> advance.
> Elena in Bilbao
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass




--------------8886AEABAA2A1C618080908D--

----
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From owner-glass Sat Mar 11 06:25:46 2000
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X-Path: ix.netcom.com!mbwalker
From: "Brad Walker" <mbwalker@ix.netcom.com>
To: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Elena_Rodr=EDguez?= <elere@clientes.euskaltel.es>,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: [Fwd: acid etching]
Date: Sat, 11 Mar 2000 09:04:48 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

http://www.geocities.com/SoHo/6937/

Click on Blast Box to see info on home made blasting cabinet.

Brad Walker
-------------------------------------------------------------------------=
---
------------------
For information about warm glass techniques and processes
such as fusing, slumping, and kiln forming, please visit
the Warm Glass website at http://www.warmglass.com


----- Original Message -----
From: Elena Rodr=EDguez <elere@clientes.euskaltel.es>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 11, 2000 5:47 AM
Subject: [Fwd: acid etching]


> Hello Charlie and all bungians
> And thanks a lot everyone who answered my query on how to get a mat
> finish on
> ordinary glass flasks; everyone seems to agree that sandblasting is the
> best
> way to do it. I saw some time ago a wonderful page showing someone's
> home made
> sandblasting cabinet; does anyone know the mentioned page's address? I
> wonder
> if the compressor used can be one of those used for spray painting or
> not. Also what
> special aditional equipment is necessary for sandblasting glass? Thank
> you in advance.
> Best regards
> Elena in Bilbao
>

----
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From owner-glass Sat Mar 11 08:03:48 2000
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X-Path: mindspring.com!rcollins1
From: Bob Collins <rcollins1@mindspring.com>
To: =?ISO-8859-1?Q?=22Elena_Rodr=EDguez=22?= <elere@clientes.euskaltel.es>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: [Fwd: acid etching]
Date: Sat, 11 Mar 2000 10:34:28 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Organization: CSC, Inc.
Precedence: bulk

	Elena,

	I built a Blaster Box out of and old Washing Machine
chassis. I had to do considerable modifications to it. Cut
some holes here and there for hand ports and a place for a
window, I made the bottom funnel out of some sheet metal.
Then I bought some parts for it from a Auto Supply house in
Michigan, Window and frame, portholes and gloves, a secure
latch for the door, and a trap door for the funnel so the
sand can be released into a box. Tips I believe is the name.
I use an ordinary compressor purchased at Sears. My son also
has made good use of when restoring his '69 Olds 442. Lots
of blasting required, there!=20

	Bob

On Sat, 11 Mar 2000 11:47:59 +0100, you wrote:

>Hello Charlie and all bungians
>And thanks a lot everyone who answered my query on how to get a mat
>finish on
>ordinary glass flasks; everyone seems to agree that sandblasting is the
>best
>way to do it. I saw some time ago a wonderful page showing someone's
>home made
>sandblasting cabinet; does anyone know the mentioned page's address? I
>wonder
>if the compressor used can be one of those used for spray painting or
>not. Also what
>special aditional equipment is necessary for sandblasting glass? Thank
>you in advance.
>Best regards
>Elena in Bilbao

----
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From owner-glass Sat Mar 11 08:59:50 2000
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X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Wanted: Mission style floor lamp base
Date: Sat, 11 Mar 2000 11:42:14 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hi all.  I need to purchase a Mission-style floor lamp base
for a client.  There was a photo of one in the Houston Stained
Glass catalog, but it is no longer available.  I've tried Warner-
Crivellaro, Rainbow/Studio J in Wall, NJ, The Glass Emporium,
the Delphi catalog, and several other wholesale stained glass
suppliers, but to no avail.  Does anyone have one they would
sell me, or know of a source?

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
North Wales, PA USA
----
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From owner-glass Sat Mar 11 14:03:36 2000
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X-Path: aol.com!Depdee70
From: Depdee70@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: religious patterns
Date: Sat, 11 Mar 2000 16:49:22 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

thanks to all your help...sure are a lot of nice people out there ..if I can 
help any one with patterns just let me know......always have time to help       
                    Dee.......depdee70@aol.com
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From owner-glass Sat Mar 11 14:35:18 2000
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X-Path: thebe.valueweb.net!aldo30
From: Tanya <zizi1@softhome.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Here are the pictures you requested 
Date: Sat, 11 Mar 2000 16:36:16 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <200003112136.QAA16659@thebe.valueweb.net>
Precedence: bulk

Hey honey, come and see what I look like.  I have posted pictures of me and my
friends on the beach at:

http://adult.sexhound.net/anitapics/



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From owner-glass Sat Mar 11 17:42:49 2000
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X-Path: fastlane.net!byronw
From: "Byron Wells" <byronw@fastlane.net>
To: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>, <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Wanted: Mission style floor lamp base
Date: Sat, 11 Mar 2000 19:31:43 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Have you tried Handley Industries?? Lamp bases and parts are their main
business...My office is a mess and I dont seem to find thier number but
surely someone here has it..
Byron...
Wells Glassworks

----- Original Message -----
From: Christie A. Wood <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 11, 2000 10:42 AM
Subject: Wanted: Mission style floor lamp base


> Hi all.  I need to purchase a Mission-style floor lamp base
> for a client.  There was a photo of one in the Houston Stained
> Glass catalog, but it is no longer available.  I've tried Warner-
> Crivellaro, Rainbow/Studio J in Wall, NJ, The Glass Emporium,
> the Delphi catalog, and several other wholesale stained glass
> suppliers, but to no avail.  Does anyone have one they would
> sell me, or know of a source?
>
> Christie A. Wood
> Art Glass Ensembles
> North Wales, PA USA
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>

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From owner-glass Sun Mar 12 10:17:05 2000
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X-Path: aol.com!AbbieN2Glass
From: AbbieN2Glass@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: bird bath
Date: Sun, 12 Mar 2000 13:04:50 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hi group, I need to know how to  and what to use for sealing a terra cotta 
saucer,  I want to use for a bird bath top. Also what would be the best thing 
to use, to set my glass and tiles into,a glue of some sort or regular tile 
cement? Thanks so much, Abbie in Va.  
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From owner-glass Sun Mar 12 15:32:12 2000
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From: "Bernie Goldberg" <dmpublishers@usa.net>
To: <glass@daver.bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Subject: Free Subscription to THE BUSINESS MARKETING NOTEPAD
Date: Sun, 12 Mar 2000 18:01:57
Message-ID: <m12UHTB-0000IaC@daver.bungi.com>
Precedence: bulk


Now you can dramatically improve your marketing and sales efforts - absolutely 
free!!!

Join the growing list of subscribers to THE BUSINESS MARKETING NOTEPAD, available 
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From owner-glass Sun Mar 12 15:34:33 2000
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Now you can dramatically improve your marketing and sales efforts - absolutely 
free!!!

Join the growing list of subscribers to THE BUSINESS MARKETING NOTEPAD, available 
free from Direct Marketing Publishers. Register today at www.dmpublishers.com/newsletter 
and your first issue will be on its way today and you'll get a new issue sent right to your 
computer every other month!

THE BUSINESS MARKETING NOTEPAD provides tips and techniques on what's new 
and what works in marketing and sales. Unlike traditional email newsletters, this 
publication arrives as a convenient eight-page color document that helps readers with 
general and specific marketing and sales ideas. The NOTEPAD contains articles from 
leading authorities and standard idea columns.  Normally priced at $69, if you act now, it 
will be delivered every other month for the next year, absolutely FREE!  It only 
takes a minute to subscribe and you'll immediately receive the current issue with no 
obligation. Visit www.dmpublishers.com/newsletter to subscribe right now!


Bernie Goldberg, Publisher
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P.S. When you visit www.dmpublishers.com you'll also discover our series of 
handbooks that you'll find are like attending a one-hour seminar in a book. They are 
concise, power-packed, and will have an immediate impact on your sales approach. 
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From owner-glass Sun Mar 12 19:59:51 2000
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From: Family Account <shad@mail2.nai.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: bird bath
Date: Sun, 12 Mar 2000 22:20:24 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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I don't know the answer to Abbie's question, but there is now a mold for pouring
a birdbath.  My local supplier was trying to tempt us the other day....

Dorothy

AbbieN2Glass@aol.com wrote:

> Hi group, I need to know how to  and what to use for sealing a terra cotta
> saucer,  I want to use for a bird bath top. Also what would be the best thing
> to use, to set my glass and tiles into,a glue of some sort or regular tile
> cement? Thanks so much, Abbie in Va.

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From owner-glass Sun Mar 12 22:30:53 2000
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From: Stephanie N Larson <pennyante@juno.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: re: Bird Bath
Date: Sun, 12 Mar 2000 10:13:38 -0800
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I don't know the answer either, but I have a question along the same
lines. What would you use to seal something like a pot or perhaps
terracotta that you want to glue glass chips or tile in a mosaic? I've
saved all my glass chips and little leftovers and would like to glue them
to a fountain. I've found mosaic grout to finish in between, etc., but
should I seal the ceramic pot I'm gluing them to first? It would make
sense to me, but the "mosaic adhesive" I purchased says nothing about it.
Any input?
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From owner-glass Mon Mar 13 05:32:26 2000
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From: THOR7127@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Re: Bird Bath
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2000 08:07:37 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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In a message dated 3/13/00 1:31:36 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
pennyante@juno.com writes:

<<  glass@bungi.com >>
hi everyone,
I seal the in side of the pot, so it's easier to clean at the end of the 
summer and so mold doesn't happen. I use a grout seal from the hardware store 
on the outside after I finish the project. this works great for me.
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From owner-glass Mon Mar 13 06:57:18 2000
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From: "Oma  Naranjo" <oma@thegrid.net>
To: "Stephanie N Larson" <pennyante@juno.com>,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Bird Bath
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2000 06:37:35 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
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Regarding sealing terra cotta pots, etc. before applying mosaic.  You would
use a product called "Clay Pot Sealer" made by:

AMREP, INC.
Consumer Products Division
990 Industrial Park Drive
Marietta, GA  30062
800-241-7766

You can purchase this at any crafts store.




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From owner-glass Mon Mar 13 10:18:42 2000
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X-Path: mtcon.net!shigbee
From: "Shari" <shigbee@mtcon.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: bird bath
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2000 09:17:23 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
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They had a couple made up at Glass Craft Expo/Las Vegas last weekend--they
were really great! Had beveled sides and you put glass on all sides and then
poured the bird bath, like a stepping stone mold. Really nice results.

Shari


> but there is now a mold for pouring
> a birdbath.  My local supplier was trying to tempt us the other day....
>



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From owner-glass Mon Mar 13 10:48:16 2000
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From: "Gay E Morrelli" <g.morrelli@worldnet.att.net>
To: "Stephanie N Larson" <pennyante@juno.com>,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Bird Bath
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2000 06:35:52 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

I would use the adhesive glue to glue on the glass chips, then grout it with
the same tile grout you would use for a bathroom shower... after that dries,
there is a sealer you can put on it... I have done this with a little patio
table.. The sealer I used was one I poured on and then let it find its own
'bottom level'... rain water beads up on it now....  If you have verticle
lines, (which you will on a fountain), just get a good sealer from your
local hardware store and brush it on... maybe 2-3 coats would be a good
guess if you want to make it waterproof....  You might give it 2-3 tries
doing it 2-3 different ways... How can you go wrong..? Fountains or flower
pots  are difficult to make ugly...!   Gay.....


>I don't know the answer either, but I have a question along the same
>lines. What would you use to seal something like a pot or perhaps
>terracotta that you want to glue glass chips or tile in a mosaic? I've
>saved all my glass chips and little leftovers and would like to glue them
>to a fountain. I've found mosaic grout to finish in between, etc., but
>should I seal the ceramic pot I'm gluing them to first? It would make
>sense to me, but the "mosaic adhesive" I purchased says nothing about it.
>Any input?
 >

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From owner-glass Mon Mar 13 11:12:26 2000
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From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: bird bath
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2000 09:51:02 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Message text written by INTERNET:AbbieN2Glass@aol.com
>Hi group, I need to know how to  and what to use for sealing a terra cot=
ta

saucer,  I want to use for a bird bath top. Also what would be the best
thing =

to use, to set my glass and tiles into,a glue of some sort or regular til=
e =

cement? Thanks so much, Abbie in Va.  <

I don't use terra cotta for mosaic work, after experiences with the terra=

cotta swelling with absorption of water, and the mosaic work breaking
away from the terra cotta.  I only use cast concrete birdbaths now.

But if you need to use terra cotta (i.e. you've already purchased a
terra cotta birdbath form), you should water-seal the terra cotta
prior to doing any mosaic work on it.  But a water sealant for terra
cotta/brick/cement.  I would put at least 2 coats on it and let the thing=

dry thoroughly before mosaic work.

I use GE Silicon II Clear (for bath & kitchen) to attach the glass to
the surface.  Then non-sanded tile grout.  I like non-sanded for
mosaic work which has very tiny gaps between glass pieces.  For
larger gaps (1/4" and above) I use sanded tile grout.

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
North Wales, PA USA
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From owner-glass Mon Mar 13 16:31:54 2000
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From: Alex Munawych <hedyalex@keremeos.com>
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Subject: Powdered Glass Colourants
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2000 16:07:48 -0800
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I am looking for a source of supply of china paint. 
Do you handle this product? Or would you know who does?
I would be greatful for your help... Thanks.... Alex
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From owner-glass Mon Mar 13 17:00:56 2000
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From: AbbieN2Glass@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: bird bath thanks
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2000 18:43:12 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Thanks all for the info....The form for the poured bird baths sound great! 
Where do I find them? Abbie in Va.
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From owner-glass Mon Mar 13 17:35:29 2000
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X-Path: gjr
From: gjr@bungi.com (Glenna Rand)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Las Vegas Classes
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2000 17:05:21 PST
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Hi everyone,

Just wanted to let you know that the Las Vegas classes were very good.
Kiln Bracelets with Jayne Persico was the best!  Fusing with a Twist with
Debra VanTol was also very good and so were Gil Reynolds classes.
The trade show seemed smaller this year but still very good.  Lots of
fusing stuff to drewl over!
Nice meeting all you bungians too! (even though it was very short!-sorry)


-- 
Glenna Rand
gjr@bungi.com
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From owner-glass Mon Mar 13 19:10:23 2000
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From: "Shari" <shigbee@mtcon.net>
To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Las Vegas Classes
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2000 19:09:41 -0700
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> Just wanted to let you know that the Las Vegas classes were very good.

I second what Glenna said. Had a great time and took some great classes. I
took Tiffany Lampmaking w/Joe Porcelli, Window Installation w/Bill Klopsch
(he writes for Stained Glass News), Hot & Wired Wire Wrapping w/Linda
Abbott, and a terrarium class and a waterfall class. I highly recommend the
first 3 classes--Joe and Bill are truly experts. And the Bungi dinner was
great--sorry more people couldn't join us.

I've already got my classes picked out for next year! See you there!

shari


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From owner-glass Mon Mar 13 20:05:24 2000
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From: "jazzykid" <jazzykid@tir.com>
To: "Bungi" <Glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Las Vegas Classes
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2000 22:36:20 -0500
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Hi All,

I will agree with Glenna that some of the classes were very,very good.  I
took sandblasting and carving with Norm and Ruth Dobbins.  A jewelry
wrapping class with Linda Abbott and a few other classes that were ok.  If
anyone gets a chance to be taught by the Dobbins and Linda Abbott .......Go
for it.


Lisa Vogt did a slide presentation on stained glass panel called Carnival,
that was at the trade show for Spectrum.  If you haven't seen it here is the
URL http://www.spectrumglass.com/TempPages/Carnival.html

It was gorgeous!  Lisa Vogt did a great job and is a very talented stained
glass artist in my humble opinion...

Dinner was fun and food was delicious but the conversation was the best!  It
was a pleasure meeting all of you  and putting faces to all those names!!
Bobfuses (Bob Duchesneau's) portfolio of work was amazing!

Exhausted and happy but back home in Michigan  :(

Jill









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From owner-glass Mon Mar 13 22:30:35 2000
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From: "Candy" <candy@ghostman.com>
To: "Stained  Glass" <glass@bungi.com>
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Subject: Glass Club Question
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 00 22:31:30 
Message-ID: <200003140530.WAA16227@mantis.privatei.com>
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Hey there everybody,

Any of you out there have any experience with local glass clubs? What's your 
individual take on it?

You can email me privately, if you like, I'm very interested..

Questions like:  What was/is the meaning of the club?

                               Did cliques form?

                               Was there a religious intensity to the learning process? Or religious 
intensity to remain always the same?

Candy

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From owner-glass Tue Mar 14 12:31:55 2000
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To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Re: bird bath
Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 14:57:28 EST
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In a message dated 3/13/00 2:13:15 PM, Ensembles@compuserve.com writes:

>if you need to use terra cotta (i.e. you've already purchased a
>terra cotta birdbath form), you should water-seal the terra cotta
>prior to doing any mosaic work on it.

AND make sure the piece is *thoroughly* dry *before* you seal it. Terra cotta 
that's been oustide is usually damp, and if you seal it that way you'll trap 
water inside the piece, and *that* will freeze and tear the piece apart from 
the inside. If in doubt, put the piece in a sunny window for several days, or 
bake it in a not-too-hot oven for an hour or so depending on the size and 
thickness of the piece.


Sparks
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From owner-glass Tue Mar 14 13:10:45 2000
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X-Path: infinet.com!glasscat
From: "Carolyn" <glasscat@infinet.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: The New Gryphon
Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 15:35:11 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

For all of you out there who are interested in the new Gryphon saw, I've
just had my first experience with one. A customer came to pick their's up
and we put it together and "played" with it. The only problem (which is not
really a problem) we had, is to make sure the blade is completely up inside
the fitting above the washer. The washer then snugs down over the fitting to
squeeze it together to hold the blade in place. The one thing I was
disappointed in was the fact that it doesn't come with any apparatus to
drill the starter hole for inside cuts. I had gathered from the
advertisement that the saw was completely "self-contained". In other words,
it could be used to start the inside cut. Apparently you have to use your
grinder to drill the starter hole, then insert the saw blade through that
hole and reinsert into the saw to do the inside cutting. Otherwise, there's
not a whole lot of difference between it and the Taurus. There aren't any
grommets that should have to be replaced on a regular basis with the
Gryphon. The blades probably will not last very long if you use it alot
because the cutting area only takes up part of the blade shaft. You will
also need 2 AA batteries for the light.
Hope this helps anyone interested in the new Gryphon.
Carolyn
glasscat@infinet.com

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From owner-glass Tue Mar 14 14:34:58 2000
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Sand blasting
Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 19:54:17 -0000
Message-ID: <200003142004.e2EK4Tt05662@mercury.nildram.co.uk>
Precedence: bulk

Hi all,

Breaking the silence from Across the Pond.
My bruised back has turned out to be cracked ribs. Little by little 
am being worn down by lack of sleep from the pain.
Ah well.... it'll pass.

So am scheming while I'm idling the time away doing very little 
'cause I CAN'T  :-(
Some time ago there was quite a lively discussion about sand-
blasting. I filed away at least 25 posts into a separate file for "one 
day". Little did I know that my friend and now neighbour is also 
interested in sand-blasting for other purposes (rust removal being 
one). I have also got a couple of basic books on equipment etc, so 
I think I can get a fair idea about compressor and gun to use. I am 
also hoping EliZabeth in Bournemouth will be able to give me her 
usual sage advice.

However, we want to build the cabinet ourselves.I understand that a 
2 x 4 ft is the recommended size.I would be most grateful for some 
"engineering advice" from you folk out there. To start with, what 
material should it be made out of and has anyone got "chepo" 
ideas (someone mentioned the housing of an old washing machine, 
for instance). There is a rough drawing on the inside back cover of  
"Sandblasting, Etching and other Glass Treatments" booklet.  I 
also have the book by Norman Dobbins  and c-author which briefly 
discusses the cabinet itself, except that his conclusion is "go out 
and buy one readymade"....

As always, am looking forward to your feedback.

Best wishes to all of you

Elisabeth 'n Toby in UK
----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
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From owner-glass Wed Mar 15 07:44:41 2000
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X-Path: yahoo.com!palewellyn
From: Pati Lewellyn <palewellyn@yahoo.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Gryphon Saw
Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2000 03:27:33 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Ditto to Carolyn's comments regarding the new Gryphon.
 The first one arrived at our shop yesterday and we
had the same problem with the assembly.  The space
required for the saw is more than the Taurus with the
hose and bucket also needed and not included in the
"self contained" package.  We have used the Taurus in
our shop for a year without replacing the blade and
only replacing the grommetts once after the
recommended first few hours replacement.  We have
seven 4x8 work tables that are used by students, shop
employees and also rented to hobbyists.  They all have
access to the Taurus.  It will be interesting to see
how the Gryphon compares in a few weeks.

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com
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From owner-glass Thu Mar 16 01:04:16 2000
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From owner-glass Thu Mar 16 01:08:43 2000
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From: "lin" <lin@foxinternet.net>
To: "Stained  Glass" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: glass sample colors
Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2000 20:56:23 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
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Hello all!  At one point in time, I remember someone talking about having
glass sample colors and textures that they used with Glass Eye.....  where
can one get those??  Any suggestions (or files of any size) gladly accepted!
TIA
layla

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From owner-glass Thu Mar 16 04:34:02 2000
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thanks
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From owner-glass Thu Mar 16 07:02:26 2000
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X-Path: ix.netcom.com!mbwalker
From: "Brad Walker" <mbwalker@ix.netcom.com>
To: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Elena_Rodr=EDguez?= <elere@clientes.euskaltel.es>,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: acid etching 
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2000 08:28:44 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Elena,

The problem with using the Acid Etch kind of products is that if you're
trying to frost a large area, they often go on unevenly.  The people who
make Acid Etch also make a product called Acid Bath that's supposed to he=
lp
with this.  You immerse your glass in the Acid Bath solution, leave it fo=
r a
while, then remove it and wash it off. (You can immerse only part of the
glass if you want.)  It goes on more evenly, and might produce the kind o=
f
finish you're looking for.

A better way is to sandblast the glass, but you may not want to invest in
the equipment to do that.

Hope this helps.

Brad W
-------------------------------------------------------------------------=
---
------------------
For information about warm glass techniques and processes
such as fusing, slumping, and kiln forming, please visit
the Warm Glass website at http://www.warmglass.com


----- Original Message -----
From: Elena Rodr=EDguez <elere@clientes.euskaltel.es>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 08, 2000 5:51 PM
Subject: acid etching


> Hello everyone
> I wonder if anyone can tell me or refer to information on how to give a
> mat look to ordinary transparent glass, in particular the kind used in
> flasks; a friend recycles them putting a bulb inside and has tried
> aplying some kind of acid but failes to get an even translucent/mat
> effect. Any idea on how to get it and/or what with? Thanks a lot in
> advance.
> Elena in Bilbao
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>

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From owner-glass Thu Mar 16 07:31:01 2000
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X-Path: alimac.com!till8er
From: "Bev Kelly" <till8er@alimac.com>
To: "lin" <lin@foxinternet.net>, "Stained  Glass" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: glass sample colors
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2000 07:16:35 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Glass Eye (Dragonfly www.dfly.com) only uses color (has an internet
download).  However glass color is available through another software I
think it was Pattern Wizard (also has an internet download)

Bev
----- Original Message -----
From: lin <lin@foxinternet.net>
To: Stained Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 15, 2000 8:56 PM
Subject: glass sample colors


> Hello all!  At one point in time, I remember someone talking about having
> glass sample colors and textures that they used with Glass Eye.....  where
> can one get those??  Any suggestions (or files of any size) gladly
accepted!
> TIA
> layla
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>

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From owner-glass Thu Mar 16 08:09:19 2000
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From: Pat Jellison <jellison@ceps.nasm.edu>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: "Ultra-low-tech" sandblasting idea (was:Re: acid etching)
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2000 10:32:17 -0500
Message-ID: <38D0FE7F.606412AC@ceps.nasm.edu>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Elena,

Another idea that your friend might want to try calls for
no equipment at all -- get some carborundum grit (the kind
used in rock tumblers to smooth and polish stones).
It's very inexpensive, and comes in several size grades
(coarse, medium, fine, extra-fine). I have successfully
"blasted" glass by making a grit-water slurry and rubbing
it on the glass with a sponge.  You have to do some experimenting
before you hit on the right grit size and type and length
of application, but it does work. I usually use a circular
or figure-eight motion to do it.  (It probably wouldn't 
work as well for cases where a resist is needed to make a
design, but I haven't actually tried that.)

I've gotten an even finish on up to a 25 x 40 cm piece of glass
this way.  It's cheap, so it might be worth a try! (The
grit is sold in lapidary supply shops and some hobby-supply stores.)

Cheers,
PJ Jellison (an old rockhound!)

Brad Walker wrote:
> 
> Elena,
> 
> The problem with using the Acid Etch kind of products is that if you're
> trying to frost a large area, they often go on unevenly.  The people who
> make Acid Etch also make a product called Acid Bath that's supposed to he=
> lp
> with this.  You immerse your glass in the Acid Bath solution, leave it fo=
> r a
> while, then remove it and wash it off. (You can immerse only part of the
> glass if you want.)  It goes on more evenly, and might produce the kind o=
> f
> finish you're looking for.
> 
> A better way is to sandblast the glass, but you may not want to invest in
> the equipment to do that.
> 
> Hope this helps.
> 
> Brad W
> -------------------------------------------------------------------------=
> ---
> ------------------
> For information about warm glass techniques and processes
> such as fusing, slumping, and kiln forming, please visit
> the Warm Glass website at http://www.warmglass.com
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Elena Rodr=EDguez <elere@clientes.euskaltel.es>
> To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, March 08, 2000 5:51 PM
> Subject: acid etching
> 
> > Hello everyone
> > I wonder if anyone can tell me or refer to information on how to give a
> > mat look to ordinary transparent glass, in particular the kind used in
> > flasks; a friend recycles them putting a bulb inside and has tried
> > aplying some kind of acid but failes to get an even translucent/mat
> > effect. Any idea on how to get it and/or what with? Thanks a lot in
> > advance.
> > Elena in Bilbao
> >
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> >
> 
> ----
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> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
----
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From owner-glass Thu Mar 16 09:17:38 2000
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X-Path: teleport.com!weaver51
From: "Howard" <weaver51@teleport.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Non-glass HIP (replacement) UPDATE!
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2000 08:55:40 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Organization: weaver51@teleport.com
Precedence: bulk

Hello all,
Within the last month or so, I am more energized and convinced (almost
anyway) that the full replacement was a "good" thing.

I have been caught smiling again, need to watch that!

A week ago, last Wednesday, I started to *fish (*collecting live for the new
exhibits), went out 3 days in a row, Wednesday, Thursday,
Friday (relatively calm only 6 to 10 foot swells).......volunteered at the
Marine Science Center on Saturday, went clamming on Sunday, volunteered at
the Oregon Coast Aquarium on Monday (includes climbing ladders and EVEN some
grunt work), nothing special on Tuesday, and went fishing again on Wednesday
(yesterday). In between the "action" puttered around in the shop and did the
usual things such as
shopping and so on. Finished a 20" fly and a 16" one in the works.
If the ocean settles down, may fish on Friday.
Soon be time to start moving sand around for planting and flora related
projects.
The thought for the day.........GREEN side up when planting ('cept for bulbs
and root stock)!
enjoy, H

weaver51@teleport.com
Elaine and Howard
best lamps on the "net":
http://www.teleport.com/~cbs/howard

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From owner-glass Thu Mar 16 11:49:18 2000
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X-Path: ilnk.com!andor
From: "Linda Jo Letscher" <andor@ilnk.com>
To: "Howard" <weaver51@teleport.com>,
Subject: Re: Non-glass HIP (replacement) UPDATE!
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2000 14:29:04 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Howard,
How nice to see you, glad you are coming along.  I will have to write that
on my studio wall, for plants, "green side up" , cool  :-)
Smiling............  hummmmmmmm sounds good to me my dear.  Be well, take
care and keep it up, the green side that is.
Linda Jo

-----Original Message-----
From: Howard <weaver51@teleport.com>
To: glass@bungi.com <glass@bungi.com>
Date: Thursday, March 16, 2000 1:17 PM
Subject: Non-glass HIP (replacement) UPDATE!


>Hello all,
>Within the last month or so, I am more energized and convinced (almost
>anyway) that the full replacement was a "good" thing.
>
>I have been caught smiling again, need to watch that!
>
>A week ago, last Wednesday, I started to *fish (*collecting live for the
new
>exhibits), went out 3 days in a row, Wednesday, Thursday,
>Friday (relatively calm only 6 to 10 foot swells).......volunteered at the
>Marine Science Center on Saturday, went clamming on Sunday, volunteered at
>the Oregon Coast Aquarium on Monday (includes climbing ladders and EVEN
some
>grunt work), nothing special on Tuesday, and went fishing again on
Wednesday
>(yesterday). In between the "action" puttered around in the shop and did
the
>usual things such as
>shopping and so on. Finished a 20" fly and a 16" one in the works.
>If the ocean settles down, may fish on Friday.
>Soon be time to start moving sand around for planting and flora related
>projects.
>The thought for the day.........GREEN side up when planting ('cept for
bulbs
>and root stock)!
>enjoy, H
>
>weaver51@teleport.com
>Elaine and Howard
>best lamps on the "net":
>http://www.teleport.com/~cbs/howard
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


----
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From owner-glass Thu Mar 16 12:05:38 2000
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X-Path: horizon-research.com!liz
From: "E.Hammond" <liz@horizon-research.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
Subject: glass sample colors
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2000 11:50:10 -0500
Message-ID: <4.2.2.20000316114230.00af86b0@192.168.1.1>
Precedence: bulk

You can buy a CD full of samples from Spectrum at 
http://www.spectrumglass.com/AccSet.html  I bought one and used it a little 
bit. It's fun to play with, but I haven't found it extremely useful since 
tiling the bitmaps to fill your image doesn't do the glass justice. I wish 
they had made them a little bigger.

Lizzie

 >Hello all!  At one point in time, I remember someone talking about having
 >glass sample colors and textures that they used with Glass Eye.....  where
 >can one get those??  Any suggestions (or files of any size) gladly accepted!
 >TIA
 >layla

Horizon Research, Inc.			ph:  919-489-1725
111 Cloister Court, Suite 220		fx:  919-493-7589
Chapel Hill, NC  27514			web: <http://www.horizon-research.com>

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From owner-glass Thu Mar 16 12:39:46 2000
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X-Path: aol.com!Bobfuses
From: Bobfuses@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: glass sample colors
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2000 12:56:58 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

In a message dated 3/16/00 7:31:52 AM Pacific Standard Time, 
till8er@alimac.com writes:

> > Hello all!  At one point in time, I remember someone talking about having
>  > glass sample colors and textures that they used with Glass Eye.....

You may be referring to me talking about the Spectrum and Kokomo CD glass 
sets that are available for American Bevel's Designer. They produce both 
texture and color. I do not know if they are usable with other glass pattern 
designing programs. You might go to: http://www.americanbevel.com and ask the 
question.

Bob in 9 2 0 2 6
When you get an email that asks you to "send it to everyone you know," please 
forget that you know me.
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From owner-glass Thu Mar 16 15:34:40 2000
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X-Path: compaq.com!kevin.longshore
From: "Longshore, Kevin" <Kevin.Longshore@COMPAQ.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE: Powdered Glass Colourants
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2000 15:42:01 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Alex,
  My wife is a china painter, so I've found a few resources. Try
www.porcelainpainters.com for lots of info, and go to their catalog page for
links to china paint sellers (http://www.porcelainpainters.com/rosescat.htm
for example).

I have heard the Reusche company makes both glass paints and china paints. I
don't know if they have a web site. 


A related question for the rest of the bungi group:
Does anyone know what the difference is between glass and china paints? And
can china paints be used on glass and vice-versa? Thanks!

Kevin Longshore


> -----Original Message-----
> From: Alex Munawych [mailto:hedyalex@keremeos.com]
> Sent: Monday, March 13, 2000 7:08 PM
> To: glass@bungi.com
> Subject: Powdered Glass Colourants
> 
> 
> I am looking for a source of supply of china paint. 
> Do you handle this product? Or would you know who does?
> I would be greatful for your help... Thanks.... Alex
> ----
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From owner-glass Thu Mar 16 15:40:20 2000
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Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2000 16:58:39 EST
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I have a piece of glass that was one time in side a door and it's signed by 
the name J. Garofalo. do you recognize the name? can you tell where to start 
to look for who this person may be? is there a sight that may be able to 
help. For no other reason than just to find out how old the piece may be and 
where it was made?
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From owner-glass Thu Mar 16 19:47:58 2000
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From: "D. ONeal" <Moya-Don@worldnet.att.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Tools
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2000 22:44:26 -0500
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Dear Bungians,
    I am going to teach a few workshops for our community college to try to
entice some folks to try the stained glass medium.  To do so I will need to
supply some tools to teach them.  Does anyone know where I can get some
good, but inexpensive used irons, rheostats and cutters, etc.?  A lot of
folks want to try their hand, but do not want to go to the expense of buying
all the tools needed in case they do not like it.
    Thanks for your help.
Moya

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From owner-glass Thu Mar 16 20:31:14 2000
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From: Mary <the_wright_light@go.com>
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Subject: steppingstone
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2000 12:27:15 -0800 (PST)
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Question-I have a round stone I made about 3 years ago.
It is the one on the cover of Tiffany Garden 2,the 
morning glories and hummingbird.  The yellow glass has 
cracked in almost all the pieces. This stone is put in 
the garage for winter and not reqularly
walked on. Also I made 4 brick size stones last summer
out of the diamond crete and 2 of them have cracked glass.
The 1st stone was concrete I had sifted.What could have 
happened?Could it be the type of glass since some cracked 
and some didn't?
Maggie

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From owner-glass Fri Mar 17 02:01:19 2000
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X-Path: teleport.com!weaver51
From: "Howard" <weaver51@teleport.com>
To: "D. ONeal" <Moya-Don@worldnet.att.net>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Tools
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2000 20:24:16 -0800
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Organization: weaver51@teleport.com
Precedence: bulk

starting off with "junk" or used tools will not enhance or create a positive
experience.


the old saying, if you have to ask, you cannot afford it!

irons with good tips and in good condition solder better than worn or used
ones.

better to share a few NEW tools than to supply used ones.

When I taught classes, I let the students use my equipment and had new tools
available.......stimulated them to buy their own.

Any tuition involved? if the class is for free or no charge, it is worth
exactly THAT!

enjoy, H

weaver51@teleport.com
Elaine and Howard
best lamps on the "net":
http://www.teleport.com/~cbs/howard

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From owner-glass Fri Mar 17 05:01:18 2000
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X-Path: home.com!cecnralph
From: Cecily and Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Subject: Re: Tools
Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000 07:15:00 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Organization: Grendel Studios
Precedence: bulk

That's something I've wondered about myself, because I'm always one for buying
used, if possible.  I just never see notes posted in the glass supply places
telling of used equipment, yet you know there have to be people who do glass
for several years and then give it up.  Maybe they have already "infected" the
next person and just hand over their equipment?  Maybe they just set it out in
the trash?

I suppose the supply people feel that they don't make money on the used stuff,
so they don't encourage postings?  If so, kinda odd, because if you go to a
weaving, or knitting, or pottery place there are almost always bulletin boards
with some used equiipment advertised.

Since you are doing this at the local community college, maybe you could get an
article in the college's news paper to drum up interest in future students, and
in it encourage readers who do glass to donate or lend equipment?  Might try
the same with the local news paper, or PennySaver?  Have you thought how many
people you will be having per session?  I'd suggest no more than 6, so you
won't need an awful lot of supplies.  College won't pay anything?  Will there
be equipment fees per course? - Cec

"D. ONeal" wrote:

> Dear Bungians,
>     I am going to teach a few workshops for our community college to try to
> entice some folks to try the stained glass medium.  To do so I will need to
> supply some tools to teach them.  Does anyone know where I can get some
> good, but inexpensive used irons, rheostats and cutters, etc.?  A lot of
> folks want to try their hand, but do not want to go to the expense of buying
> all the tools needed in case they do not like it.
>     Thanks for your help.
> Moya
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

--
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************


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From owner-glass Fri Mar 17 07:50:34 2000
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X-Path: gdi.net!shodge
From: Skip Hodge <shodge@gdi.net>
To: Cecily and Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Tools
Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000 08:30:03 -0500
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Hi Cec,

You are giving us retailers a bad name.
I own a small retail shop and encourage my students to spend as little
as possible on tools, I have them ask thier friends look in the paper
and yes I keep a list of used equipment. The problem is that the minute
a used tool is up for sale it is usually gone within a day. Another good
source is garage sales. Lots of times you can pick up the whole kit and
kaboodle including a grinder that way for less than $100.00.

Keep up the good work

Skip
Southern Exposure Stained Glass Supply, Inc.
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From owner-glass Fri Mar 17 09:19:46 2000
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From: chris kaiser <infoslave@cheerful.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: nonglass test
Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000 10:14:35 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Just seeing if I am still able to post to the list. 8)

christkaiser 8D
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From owner-glass Fri Mar 17 10:22:01 2000
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X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: IGGA Wanted Ad:Waterford Wedgwood USA
Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000 10:54:08 -0500
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The following was forwarded to IGGA, and is being passed along to our
members on bungi.com as a service.  The following information has not
been independantly verified, but you may contact them if you are interest=
ed
in learning more.
...Christie A. Wood, IGGA Exec. Director
----------------------------------
>From: "Cronin, Amy" <ACronin@wwusa.com>
Sent: Friday, March 10, 2000 3:51 PM
Subject: IGGA inquiry

> My name is Amy Zimmermann and I am a Recruiter for Waterford Wedgwood
> USA,Inc. We are currently looking for an Engraving Manager in our
corporate
> headquarters in Wall, NJ and was wondering if you would know of any
> publications or internet sites that enable me to target a specific grou=
p.
We
> are looking for an individual with a graphic arts background with
thorough
> knowledge of sandblasting. Please let me know if you could be of any
> assistance. Thank you for your time.
>
> Amy Cronin-Zimmermann
> Recruiter<
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From owner-glass Fri Mar 17 10:31:04 2000
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X-Path: aol.com!Bobfuses
From: Bobfuses@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Hot shop for sale
Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000 13:02:29 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Here is something I copied from the newsgroup rec.crafts.glass. No connection 
with me.
Bob in 92026
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Subject: Hot shop for sale in Minnesota
From: <A HREF="mailto:wilson_mark@htc.honeywell.com ">wilson_mark@htc.honeywel
l.com </A> (Mark Wilson)
Date: 3/17/00 8:20 AM Pacific Standard Time
Message-id: <8atm0u$pm0$1@chico.htc.honeywell.com>

A friend of mine has to sell off his entire hot glass studio and equipment. 
The equipment includes the following:

Electric glass furnace, Denver, 135 lbs, love 1600 controller
Glass annealer, Denver, 30x42x18 inches
Glory hole, Denver, 18" dia, 24" deep
Pick up oven
Marver 16x42 inch
Bench
Pipe warmer, 13x19x9 inch
Mud wheel, 24 inch
Lots of misc. punties, pipes, blocks, glass

Its a real bummer for him but possibly and opportunity for you. The stuff 
is located in central Minnesota. If interested please contact me at 
mwilson@isd.net and I will make sure he gets in touch with you. He would
like to sell the shop as a whole and not sell each piece on its own. That
may change.
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From owner-glass Fri Mar 17 10:55:05 2000
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X-Path: ilnk.com!andor
From: "Linda Jo Letscher" <andor@ilnk.com>
To: "Bungi" <Glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: Tools
Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000 13:38:08 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Skip,

You are one in a million so to speak, as far as a retail glass store, giving
classes.  I got the feeling about the last place here in town that went out
of business, that they did not encourage any sort of networking.  I look in
the paper every day and have never seen the sale of stained glass tools or
glass for sale.  But I keep looking just in case.

Some, not all small retailers just do the classes so they can sell a grinder
and tools.  When I took my beginners class way back in the stone age, we
were told what tools we had to buy to participate in the class.  No ifs and
or buts.  And you had to have the stuff purchased prior to the class
starting.  But I wanted to learn glass so I did buy from them at what I now
know was a real exorbitant price for some items.  It is really expensive for
a small retail store to have all the tools around for a class.  Sort of a
catch 22 type of thing.

Small retail glass stores/studios come in all shapes and sizes and along
with it, each person has a different take on what it takes to give classes.

When anyone says "oh I love your stained glass, I want to learn" I always
tell them that it is great hobby or whatever you want to make out of it, but
it is an expensive hobby to go into. So they know up front this isn't like
taking up needle point or something where there isn't a lot of outlay for
implements to do our work. (yes I know that needle point people have lots of
stuff, but to start you can start small) (ya sort of know what I mean?)

So Skip it is nice to hear that you try to help out your customers and keep
a list of who has what for sale used.  That is really nice.

Regards,
Linda Jo


-----Original Message-----
From: Skip Hodge <shodge@gdi.net>
To: Cecily and Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
Date: Friday, March 17, 2000 11:04 AM
Subject: Re: Tools


>Hi Cec,
>
>You are giving us retailers a bad name.
>I own a small retail shop and encourage my students to spend as little
>as possible on tools, I have them ask thier friends look in the paper
>and yes I keep a list of used equipment. The problem is that the minute
>a used tool is up for sale it is usually gone within a day. Another good
>source is garage sales. Lots of times you can pick up the whole kit and
>kaboodle including a grinder that way for less than $100.00.
>
>Keep up the good work
>
>Skip
>Southern Exposure Stained Glass Supply, Inc.
>----
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>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


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From owner-glass Fri Mar 17 11:33:24 2000
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X-Path: fn3.freenet.tlh.fl.us!gonzalj
From: Jim Gonzalez <gonzalj@freenet.tlh.fl.us>
To: "D. ONeal" <Moya-Don@worldnet.att.net>
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Tools
Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000 13:42:21 -0500 (EST)
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References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

On Thu, 16 Mar 2000, D. ONeal wrote:
>     I am going to teach a few workshops for our community college to try to
> entice some folks to try the stained glass medium.  To do so I will need to
> supply some tools to teach them.  Does anyone know where I can get some
> good, but inexpensive used irons, rheostats and cutters, etc.?  A lot of
> folks want to try their hand, but do not want to go to the expense of buying
> all the tools needed in case they do not like it.
>     Thanks for your help.
> Moya

Try Ebay.  Lots of used (and new) equipment for sale.  I check it
regularly to see if there is anything I can "steal".

Jim

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From owner-glass Fri Mar 17 12:59:29 2000
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X-Path: one.net!gwood
From: "Gregg Wood" <gwood@one.net>
To: "Glass @ Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Tools
Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000 15:41:39 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

I guess as long as we're on the subject...

We supply a 'tool kit' with:
    Safety Glasses
    A Sharpie Marker
    Rubber Cement
    A (cheap Fletcher) Glass cutter
    A bottle of Cutting oil
    Running pliers
    Breaker/Grosers
    Pound of solder
    Bottle of Flux
    Bottle of Patina
    Flux brush
    A bin with a handle to keep it all in...

We supply the use of grinders & soldering irons

The tool kit is $65.

The class is $80 for 6 weeks.

They have to buy glass, foil land zinc extra, but that's it.

the $80 class fee includes a $13 (I think) studio fee that covers
use of grinder & soldering irons.  If a student decides to buy
a soldering iron they get a $6 refund.  If they buy a grinder they
get a 7$ refund.  We don't push the purchase of either since
we provide them.

Does this seem really expensive?  I didn't think so up to this point...

Now, we have had a bit of trouble of our soldering irons walking off
lately so we were considering rearranging the tool kit.

Yank the flux, cutting oil & patina (We usually have at least one Exxon
Valdez episode per class any way) and providing them with a small
'Deli Cup' container with oil & flux.  They can buy the patina since not
everyone patinas.  We make the kit $80 and include a soldering iron.
(This helps eliminate the 'Can I use a soldering GUN?' or 'My brother
is into electronics, can I use that iron?' questions.)

At first this seemed expensive but after asking around people seemed pretty
excited at the prospect of getting their own iron and didn't seem to care
about
the smaller quantities of chemicals.

What do you think?

-G


> Skip,
>
> You are one in a million so to speak, as far as a retail glass store,
giving
> classes.  I got the feeling about the last place here in town that went
out
> of business, that they did not encourage any sort of networking.  I look
in
> the paper every day and have never seen the sale of stained glass tools or
> glass for sale.  But I keep looking just in case.
>
> Some, not all small retailers just do the classes so they can sell a
grinder
> and tools.  When I took my beginners class way back in the stone age, we
> were told what tools we had to buy to participate in the class.  No ifs
and
> or buts.  And you had to have the stuff purchased prior to the class
> starting.  But I wanted to learn glass so I did buy from them at what I
now
> know was a real exorbitant price for some items.  It is really expensive
for
> a small retail store to have all the tools around for a class.  Sort of a
> catch 22 type of thing.
>
> Small retail glass stores/studios come in all shapes and sizes and along
> with it, each person has a different take on what it takes to give
classes.
>
> When anyone says "oh I love your stained glass, I want to learn" I always
> tell them that it is great hobby or whatever you want to make out of it,
but
> it is an expensive hobby to go into. So they know up front this isn't like
> taking up needle point or something where there isn't a lot of outlay for
> implements to do our work. (yes I know that needle point people have lots
of
> stuff, but to start you can start small) (ya sort of know what I mean?)
>
> So Skip it is nice to hear that you try to help out your customers and
keep
> a list of who has what for sale used.  That is really nice.
>
> Regards,
> Linda Jo
>

> >Hi Cec,
> >
> >You are giving us retailers a bad name.
> >I own a small retail shop and encourage my students to spend as little
> >as possible on tools, I have them ask thier friends look in the paper
> >and yes I keep a list of used equipment. The problem is that the minute
> >a used tool is up for sale it is usually gone within a day. Another good
> >source is garage sales. Lots of times you can pick up the whole kit and
> >kaboodle including a grinder that way for less than $100.00.
> >
> >Keep up the good work
> >
> >Skip
> >Southern Exposure Stained Glass Supply, Inc.


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From owner-glass Fri Mar 17 14:33:48 2000
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X-Path: worldnet.att.net!Moya-Don
From: "D. ONeal" <Moya-Don@worldnet.att.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Tools
Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000 17:30:38 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Thank you all for your wonderful responses.  I am a firm believer that if I
teach well enough and am enthusiastic enough, my students will want to make
the investment in stained glass.  If they are not interested enough they
will probably tell at least one someone else that they tried it.  That in
turn....
The result being that retailers will have more business.
Thanks again,
Moya

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From owner-glass Fri Mar 17 17:37:10 2000
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From: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@ix.netcom.com>
To: Gregg Wood <gwood@one.net>, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Tools
Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000 16:41:54 -0600
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References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
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Hi Greg.
Sounds like your offer is a great deal to me.

The studio where I work charges $175 for a ten week beginner class.  I
dont think that is high.

This includes the use all all studio tools, a text written by my
employer,  and optional Saturday studio time.  They only use our tools
when in the studio.  They have to buy all their supplies, and I think
the use of the studio tools is enough to make them want to buy their
own! ;o)  

Those of us who work in the studio do our best to *hide* our tools or we
spend the first 30 minutes on Tueday mornings trying to find decent
tools.

Suzanne

Gregg Wood wrote:
> 
> I guess as long as we're on the subject...
> 
> We supply a 'tool kit' with:
>     Safety Glasses
>     A Sharpie Marker
>     Rubber Cement
>     A (cheap Fletcher) Glass cutter
>     A bottle of Cutting oil
>     Running pliers
>     Breaker/Grosers
>     Pound of solder
>     Bottle of Flux
>     Bottle of Patina
>     Flux brush
>     A bin with a handle to keep it all in...
> 
> We supply the use of grinders & soldering irons
> 
> The tool kit is $65.
> 
> The class is $80 for 6 weeks.
> 
> They have to buy glass, foil land zinc extra, but that's it.
> 
> the $80 class fee includes a $13 (I think) studio fee that covers
> use of grinder & soldering irons.  If a student decides to buy
> a soldering iron they get a $6 refund.  If they buy a grinder they
> get a 7$ refund.  We don't push the purchase of either since
> we provide them.
> 
> Does this seem really expensive?  I didn't think so up to this point...
> 
> Now, we have had a bit of trouble of our soldering irons walking off
> lately so we were considering rearranging the tool kit.
> 
> Yank the flux, cutting oil & patina (We usually have at least one Exxon
> Valdez episode per class any way) and providing them with a small
> 'Deli Cup' container with oil & flux.  They can buy the patina since not
> everyone patinas.  We make the kit $80 and include a soldering iron.
> (This helps eliminate the 'Can I use a soldering GUN?' or 'My brother
> is into electronics, can I use that iron?' questions.)
> 
> At first this seemed expensive but after asking around people seemed pretty
> excited at the prospect of getting their own iron and didn't seem to care
> about
> the smaller quantities of chemicals.
> 
> What do you think?
> 
> -G
> 
> > Skip,
> >
> > You are one in a million so to speak, as far as a retail glass store,
> giving
> > classes.  I got the feeling about the last place here in town that went
> out
> > of business, that they did not encourage any sort of networking.  I look
> in
> > the paper every day and have never seen the sale of stained glass tools or
> > glass for sale.  But I keep looking just in case.
> >
> > Some, not all small retailers just do the classes so they can sell a
> grinder
> > and tools.  When I took my beginners class way back in the stone age, we
> > were told what tools we had to buy to participate in the class.  No ifs
> and
> > or buts.  And you had to have the stuff purchased prior to the class
> > starting.  But I wanted to learn glass so I did buy from them at what I
> now
> > know was a real exorbitant price for some items.  It is really expensive
> for
> > a small retail store to have all the tools around for a class.  Sort of a
> > catch 22 type of thing.
> >
> > Small retail glass stores/studios come in all shapes and sizes and along
> > with it, each person has a different take on what it takes to give
> classes.
> >
> > When anyone says "oh I love your stained glass, I want to learn" I always
> > tell them that it is great hobby or whatever you want to make out of it,
> but
> > it is an expensive hobby to go into. So they know up front this isn't like
> > taking up needle point or something where there isn't a lot of outlay for
> > implements to do our work. (yes I know that needle point people have lots
> of
> > stuff, but to start you can start small) (ya sort of know what I mean?)
> >
> > So Skip it is nice to hear that you try to help out your customers and
> keep
> > a list of who has what for sale used.  That is really nice.
> >
> > Regards,
> > Linda Jo
> >
> 
> > >Hi Cec,
> > >
> > >You are giving us retailers a bad name.
> > >I own a small retail shop and encourage my students to spend as little
> > >as possible on tools, I have them ask thier friends look in the paper
> > >and yes I keep a list of used equipment. The problem is that the minute
> > >a used tool is up for sale it is usually gone within a day. Another good
> > >source is garage sales. Lots of times you can pick up the whole kit and
> > >kaboodle including a grinder that way for less than $100.00.
> > >
> > >Keep up the good work
> > >
> > >Skip
> > >Southern Exposure Stained Glass Supply, Inc.
> 
> ----
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From owner-glass Fri Mar 17 18:20:55 2000
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X-Path: erols.com!deethom
From: Dee Thompson <deethom@erols.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Re: Tools
Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000 10:30:05 -0500
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If you place an ad that the items are donated to the college arts dept,
maybe you can entice some donors with a tax write off.  I know a lot of
folks that have gotten away from thier hobbies but still hold on to thier
stock, in case they ever want to go back to it again.
Dee
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From owner-glass Fri Mar 17 18:35:38 2000
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From: "Peggy W. Johnsen" <edupjohn@slonet.org>
To: "D. ONeal" <Moya-Don@worldnet.att.net>
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Subject: Re: Tools
Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000 15:03:45 -0800 (PST)
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Dear Moya:  You many want to talk further with your community college and
see if they are willing to equip a "stained glass workshop."  Ours did and
gave me a budget for $2,000 to buy tools and equipment to accomodate 20
students.  It is a popular class and usually more than 20 students enroll.
The first 20 gets to use the ones provided by the college and the others
then will have to buy their own.  Actually, it hasn't been a problem
because several have done stained glass in the past and already has their
own equipment.    Also, most of the students begin to buy their own tools
and I encourage this.

In addition, students pay a fee and I furnish chemicals and glass.  The
college added an advanced class this semester and will conduct three more
classes this summer.  They eventually want to include it as a credit
course in the art department.  

You may wish to suggest that sg would be an ideal vocational course for
which they could write grants to receive funding for your equipment.
Peggy

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From owner-glass Fri Mar 17 18:51:03 2000
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From: "Peggy W. Johnsen" <edupjohn@slonet.org>
To: Cecily and Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
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Subject: Re: Tools
Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000 15:05:10 -0800 (PST)
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Dear Cec:  Why not advertise in your local paper for people to call you if
they have used sg tools/equipment they would like to sell.  Peggy

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From owner-glass Fri Mar 17 20:41:32 2000
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From: Cecily and Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
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Subject: Re: Tools
Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000 22:50:01 -0500
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Organization: Grendel Studios
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Mea Culpa - but I wasn't really throwing rocks - just observing that I'd
never had an opportunity :-( to get something used at any of my usual
retail supply places.  What I have been lucky enough to do VERY
occasionally is to get something my original instructor is about to part
with when replacing it, since she does a lot of teaching and likes to test
out the new stuff.

Skip Hodge wrote:

> Hi Cec,
>
> You are giving us retailers a bad name.
> I own a small retail shop and encourage my students to spend as little
> as possible on tools, I have them ask thier friends look in the paper
> and yes I keep a list of used equipment. The problem is that the minute
> a used tool is up for sale it is usually gone within a day. Another good
> source is garage sales. Lots of times you can pick up the whole kit and
> kaboodle including a grinder that way for less than $100.00.
>
> Keep up the good work
>
> Skip
> Southern Exposure Stained Glass Supply, Inc.

--
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************


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From owner-glass Sat Mar 18 08:36:25 2000
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From: Linda Williams <lcwilliams@in-touch.net>
To: "D. ONeal" <Moya-Don@worldnet.att.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Tools
Date: Sat, 18 Mar 2000 10:40:05 -0500
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Where is this community college located?  Our local community college offered
stained glass classes years ago and I keep looking for them to do so again.
It's Southern State Community College in Wilmington OH.



"D. ONeal" wrote:

> Dear Bungians,
>     I am going to teach a few workshops for our community college to try to
> entice some folks to try the stained glass medium.  To do so I will need to
> supply some tools to teach them.  Does anyone know where I can get some
> good, but inexpensive used irons, rheostats and cutters, etc.?  A lot of
> folks want to try their hand, but do not want to go to the expense of buying
> all the tools needed in case they do not like it.
>     Thanks for your help.
> Moya
>
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From owner-glass Sat Mar 18 09:06:38 2000
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From: Skip Hodge <shodge@gdi.net>
To: Gregg Wood <gwood@one.net>
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Subject: Re: Tools
Date: Sat, 18 Mar 2000 10:10:11 -0500
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The kit sounds pretty good to me.

Question?

Have any of you tried using Vellum for your pattern cutouts and then
glueing the on the glass with a "Glue Stick"

I have found that I cut much better and I can reuse the pattern pieces 6
or 7 times. Vellum holds up wonderfully even when wet.

What do you think?

Skip
Southern Exposure Stained Glass Supply, Inc.
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From owner-glass Sat Mar 18 10:05:33 2000
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Subject: Re: Pattern Cutouts
Date: Sat, 18 Mar 2000 12:49:46 EST
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I haven't used Vellum  for my pattern cutouts - I put Vellum over my full 
pattern on my homesote board to protect it from flux, etc.  I put the pattern 
down and place the Vellum over it and then pin my aluminum borders on top of 
that (if it's a round pattern I just pin with no border).  The aluminum 
borders help to keep my project from growing.

For patterns I spray a dry mount adhesive on an old file folder and then 
stick the pattern onto that and cut it out.  Holds up to more than one making 
of the pattern but I don't put the pattern on the glass for grinding so it 
doesn't get wet.  I mark the pieces that need grinding with a gold marker, 
which seems to hold up better than the black ones.

Brenda

<< Have any of you tried using Vellum for your pattern cutouts and then
 glueing the on the glass with a "Glue Stick"
 
 I have found that I cut much better and I can reuse the pattern pieces 6
 or 7 times. Vellum holds up wonderfully even when wet. >>
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From owner-glass Sat Mar 18 11:39:07 2000
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Subject: Re: Pattern Cutouts
Date: Sat, 18 Mar 2000 13:51:37 -0500
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	I have used the tops of plastic containers, i.e. margarine containers,
for years. They can be used a number of times. Also, the containers
aren't bad as scrape glass holder.

	Bob
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From owner-glass Sat Mar 18 15:44:51 2000
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Subject: Re: Pattern Cutouts
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I like the idea of using vellum and I will have to try it. I have been doing 
it the old fashion way of tracing around the pieces with a sharpie and it 
gets quite aggrivating when you try and grind the pieces. The marker just 
does not stay on the glass.
Jacque
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From owner-glass Sat Mar 18 17:13:09 2000
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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I was given your address by someone who said you have a nice discussion =
group.  I do Stained Glass Mosaics and would like to subscribe. =20
Thx
Kristin Sundin
krackedkreations@col.ca
Calgary, Alberta, Canada

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
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<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I was given your address by someone who =
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have a nice discussion group.&nbsp; I do Stained Glass Mosaics and would =
like to=20
subscribe.&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Thx</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Kristin Sundin</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"mailto:krackedkreations@col.ca">krackedkreations@col.ca</A></FONT=
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<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Calgary, Alberta, =
Canada</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-glass Sat Mar 18 19:29:16 2000
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Subject: vellum?  Pattern Cutouts
Date: Sat, 18 Mar 2000 20:51:37 -0500
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I  will show my ignorance here, but what is vellum?   I thought vellum was a
THIN  "fancy" paper.  I bought some today in a rubber stamp store cause I
thought it was pretty and they told me it was vellum.  I can't imagine using
it for stained glass pattern making and holding up, unless  it has "secret
wonderful ' traits about it that i don't know becuz i've never used it.
thanks in advance for dummying me up:))
----- Original Message -----
From: <Jacque1263@aol.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 18, 2000 5:42 PM
Subject: Re: Pattern Cutouts


> I like the idea of using vellum and I will have to try it. I have been
doing
> it the old fashion way of tracing around the pieces with a sharpie and it
> gets quite aggrivating when you try and grind the pieces. The marker just
> does not stay on the glass.
> Jacque
> ----
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>

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From owner-glass Sat Mar 18 20:03:26 2000
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From: Cecily and Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
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Subject: Re: Pattern Cutouts
Date: Sat, 18 Mar 2000 20:30:09 -0500
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References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Organization: Grendel Studios
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They make a stuff you sp;read on over your marking, but it is probably beeswax
based and too hard - you can actually rub off the markings putting it on.  I
use plain old Vasoline (petroleum jelly).  I also use it to lubricate the
grinder, instead of paying  for fancy lubricants. - Cec

Jacque1263@aol.com wrote:

> I like the idea of using vellum and I will have to try it. I have been doing
> it the old fashion way of tracing around the pieces with a sharpie and it
> gets quite aggrivating when you try and grind the pieces. The marker just
> does not stay on the glass.
> Jacque
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

--
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************


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From owner-glass Sun Mar 19 02:52:22 2000
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X-Path: worldnet.att.net!Moya-Don
From: "D. ONeal" <Moya-Don@worldnet.att.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: re pattern cutouts
Date: Sat, 18 Mar 2000 23:27:26 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Jacque,
I have found a great marker for most glasses.  It is the pencil shaped
white-out stick.  It works very well.  Make sure it is dry and it stays put.
Moya

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From owner-glass Sun Mar 19 03:02:29 2000
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From: "D. ONeal" <Moya-Don@worldnet.att.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Vellum Pattern Cartoons
Date: Sat, 18 Mar 2000 23:23:51 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Skip,
You are just full of great ideas.  If vellum works, I bet tyvek would hold
up even longer.  I will try it and let you know.
Moya

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From owner-glass Sun Mar 19 06:54:28 2000
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From: Connie Bartel <BLUEHERON@etinternet.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: pattern cut out
Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2000 08:11:46 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Well after reading your posts I guess I need to chime in.

My favorite way to do them is with a thin plastic mylar that is clear or
transparent.
That way I have them through about 10-20 uses and I use the double stick
mounting tape you can get through Warner C to stick them on. I use carbon
paper and onesheet ofvellum for my layout pattern and  mylar for my cut
outs. I keep my pattern pieces in envelopes filed. 

The stained glass shop that I learned to do this with is still in business 20
years later and just recently sent my some mylar at request. They said they
order in an art supply wholesale catalogue. I have yet to find anybody
that carries it.  The transparent film stencil is more expensive and I
believed
I ordered it from Stained Glass Workshop.

Does anybodyout there know where to get the mylar sheets?
Connie

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From owner-glass Sun Mar 19 07:52:48 2000
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X-Path: earthlink.net!glasscutter
From: Gerry Phibbs <glasscutter@earthlink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Pattern Cutouts
Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2000 05:37:02 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Organization: International Guild of Glass Artists, Inc
Precedence: bulk

Hi Jaque..
  A quick suggestion that you might find worthwhile.
  Get some spray glue, and some Contac paper.  Generate your pattern on
some vellum or regular paper, and before you start cutting it up, spray
some glue on the back side of it, and apply it to the surface of the
Contac paper.
  Now, as you cut out your pieces, you can then peel off the protective
film on the Contac paper, and then position this adhesive piece right on
the glass.  Make sure the glass is good and clean, or else it won't
stick very well.
  I started doing this a long time ago, and it works well for me.  I
have a really nice guide to use in my cutting, and I can then use the
same affixed template for such grinding as I do.  The water of the
grinder can loosen the bond between the Contac paper and the glass,
especially on the very small pieces that I do, but it usually lasts long
enough to get a pretty decently ground piece, before it comes off, or I
peel it off.
  Just an idea to consider.
  Peace  -Gerry
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From owner-glass Sun Mar 19 08:34:56 2000
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X-Path: aol.com!Jacque1263
From: Jacque1263@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: Pattern Cutouts
Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2000 10:37:42 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

You can get mylar at the craft stores. I get it at The Rag Shop. It is a 
store that carries quilting supplies and they have it. I have also seen it at 
Joanne Fabrics in the sewing supplies.

Jacque
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From owner-glass Sun Mar 19 09:27:38 2000
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X-Path: island.net!seaspray
From: seaspray@island.net (synergyglass)
To: Jacque1263@aol.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Pattern Cutouts
Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2000 06:57:48 -0800
Message-ID: <200003191457.GAA15230@mimas.island.net>
Precedence: bulk

>I like the idea of using vellum and I will have to try it. I have been doing 
>it the old fashion way of tracing around the pieces with a sharpie and it 
>gets quite aggrivating when you try and grind the pieces. The marker just 
>does not stay on the glass.
>Jacque

Hi Jacque

I've found that most folk just don't let the Sharpie ink dry long
enough...here's the secret I've found.  Do all your marking and cutting one
day, then move on to another panel and do something else. I've always got a
couple of projects on the go at various stages of completion.  (This helps
avoid risks like carpal tunnel syndrome from cutting for 8 hours a day, and
also avoids boredom.  I like to rotate projects so I don't get bored with
any single project).

By the time you've let the sharpie dry for a day or two, you can see where
you need to touch up your work.  If you're grinding more than just the odd
touch up, the problem isn't the sharpie, just that you need to hone your
cutting and grozing skills so you have less material to remove.  Think of
the grinder as a touchup tool, rather than how you "shape" the piece.  That
is best done through accurate cutting.

Carol
Carol Swann
Synergy Glass & Creative
www.igga.org/synergy
seaspray@island.net

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From owner-glass Sun Mar 19 10:39:12 2000
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X-Path: sympatico.ca!tandg.higson
From: Gillian Higson <tandg.higson@sympatico.ca>
To: Connie Bartel <BLUEHERON@etinternet.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: pattern cut out
Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2000 11:33:33 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@l.pop50.bellglobal.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Hi Connie
I wound up using stencil blanks for my long term pattern pieces.  You could also
use blank quilting stencils .
Regards
Gillian

Connie Bartel wrote:

> Well after reading your posts I guess I need to chime in.
>
> My favorite way to do them is with a thin plastic mylar that is clear or
> transparent.
> That way I have them through about 10-20 uses and I use the double stick
> mounting tape you can get through Warner C to stick them on. I use carbon
> paper and onesheet ofvellum for my layout pattern and  mylar for my cut
> outs. I keep my pattern pieces in envelopes filed.
>
> The stained glass shop that I learned to do this with is still in business 20
> years later and just recently sent my some mylar at request. They said they
> order in an art supply wholesale catalogue. I have yet to find anybody
> that carries it.  The transparent film stencil is more expensive and I
> believed
> I ordered it from Stained Glass Workshop.
>
> Does anybodyout there know where to get the mylar sheets?
> Connie
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

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From owner-glass Sun Mar 19 12:07:09 2000
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X-Path: clientes.euskaltel.es!elere
From: "Elena Rodríguez" <elere@clientes.euskaltel.es>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: sandblasting info and another question
Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2000 19:39:01 +0100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hello everyone
Once again, thank you everyone who gave information on sandblasting and
acid etching; also the suggestion on carborundum grit, makes a lot of
sense and sounds simple. It will be some time before I can tell you how
it went, I think sandblasting is the option my friend's shop is going to
try, as it may be useful for other things. She sends a big thank you . I
have another question, Iwould like to know if  spiders arms come in
longer versions than 14 cm (each), which is maximum I can get here;
Thanks in advance for your help.
Best regards to you all.
Elena in Bilbao.



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From owner-glass Sun Mar 19 13:00:21 2000
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: reddress <reddress@redsuspenders.com>
Subject: vellum? Pattern Cutouts
Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2000 18:39:27 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk

Actually, vellum is really a kind of fine parchment prepared from the
skins of calves, kids, or lambs for writing, binding, or painting.  I
think what is being called vellum is some kind of imitation, but if not
must be pretty expensive.

Steve
In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, reddress <reddress@redsuspenders.com>
writes
>I  will show my ignorance here, but what is vellum?   I thought vellum was a
>THIN  "fancy" paper.  I bought some today in a rubber stamp store cause I
>thought it was pretty and they told me it was vellum.  I can't imagine using
>it for stained glass pattern making and holding up, unless  it has "secret
>wonderful ' traits about it that i don't know becuz i've never used it.
>thanks in advance for dummying me up:))
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <Jacque1263@aol.com>
>To: <glass@bungi.com>
>Sent: Saturday, March 18, 2000 5:42 PM
>Subject: Re: Pattern Cutouts
>
>
>> I like the idea of using vellum and I will have to try it. I have been
>doing
>> it the old fashion way of tracing around the pieces with a sharpie and it
>> gets quite aggrivating when you try and grind the pieces. The marker just
>> does not stay on the glass.
>> Jacque
>> ----
>> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>>
>
>----
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>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Sun Mar 19 14:15:28 2000
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X-Path: aol.com!Bobfuses
From: Bobfuses@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Spiders
Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2000 15:56:07 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

In a message dated 3/19/00 12:07:44 PM Pacific Standard Time, 
elere@clientes.euskaltel.es writes:

>  I have another question, Iwould like to know if  spiders arms come in
>  longer versions than 14 cm (each), which is maximum I can get here;
>  Thanks in advance for your help.
>  Best regards to you all.
>  Elena in Bilbao.

Not that I know of. You can slip a piece of brass tubing over the arm of the 
spider to extend it. ToysRus and hobby outlets sell the tubing.

Bob in 9 2 0 2 6
When you get an email that asks you to "send it to everyone you know," please 
forget that you know me.
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From owner-glass Sun Mar 19 15:13:33 2000
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X-Path: home.com!cecnralph
From: Cecily and Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Subject: Re: Pattern Cutouts
Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2000 12:25:38 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Organization: Grendel Studios
Precedence: bulk

Me, I do a lot of my own designs, usually designed at the size I
originally need.  I take the original to Kinkos (or other commercial
copiers who can handle large copies, and also handle large blowups or
reductions) and order 3 or 4 copies.  One copy is 8 1/2" x 11" so I can
scan the pattern into the computer.  One is a cut copy, one an assemble
copy, and one is to keep which is the file copy of that pattern at that
size, annotated with the glass used, and for whom.

I just cut the Kindo's paper, glue stick on the back, especially around
the edges, and place it.  I used to use Contac paper, but find this is
just as good, when I Vasoline the edges.

When I don't use Kinko's but trace patterns on my light box, I use paper
I buy in a roll from a local art store, which is 3 ft. wide.  Nothing
fancy and not expensive.  And I only resort to graph paper if it is
something I am doing which needs to be symetrical.

But in general, I'm doing one of a kind things, not a bunch of the same
things.  If I were mass producing things, I think the mylar sounds
sensible - sort of like the window stickies for Halloween you can reuse.

--
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************


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From owner-glass Sun Mar 19 15:26:56 2000
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X-Path: aol.com!Romajoco
From: Romajoco@aol.com
To: Glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: In Search of Motorcycle Pattern
Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2000 17:08:52 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hi there, 

Got a question for everyone.  I was asked to possibly do a panel of a HD 
motorcycle.  Does anyone know where I might find one.

Margie
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From owner-glass Sun Mar 19 16:02:49 2000
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From: =?iso-8859-2?Q?Krzysztof_Kamie=F1ski?= <kszyk@box43.gnet.pl>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: Wellcome all 
Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2000 21:40:55 +0100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0070_01BF91EB.CEC62F20
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-2"
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Please for help=20

I live in Poland, from two years I occupy oneself with work of =
stained-glass .

I seek of addresses URL of internet bookshop in Europe in of which one =
can buy books about stained-glass subject matter.=20

I would be grateful too every advice and advice relating stained-glass . =


My e-mail: kszyk@box43.gnet.pl



My e- mail: snipe @=20


------=_NextPart_000_0070_01BF91EB.CEC62F20
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-2"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-2" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
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<DIV><FONT face=3D"MS Shell Dlg" size=3D1>
<P><FONT size=3D3>Please for help </FONT></P>
<P><FONT size=3D3>I live in Poland, from two years I occupy oneself with =
work of=20
stained-glass .</FONT></P>
<P><FONT size=3D3>I seek of addresses URL of internet bookshop in Europe =
in of=20
which one can buy books about stained-glass subject matter. </FONT></P>
<P><FONT size=3D3>I would be grateful too every advice and advice =
relating=20
stained-glass . </FONT></P>
<P><FONT size=3D3>My e-mail: <A=20
href=3D"mailto:kszyk@box43.gnet.pl">kszyk@box43.gnet.pl</A></FONT></P>
<P>&nbsp;</P>
<P>My e- mail: snipe @ </P></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0070_01BF91EB.CEC62F20--



_____________________________________________________
x86 Magazyn komputerowy http://www.x86.pl
NAJWIÊKSZA BAZA STEROWNIKÓW I WYGASZACZY W POLSCE
_____________________________________________________

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From owner-glass Sun Mar 19 16:15:41 2000
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X-Path: in-touch.net!lcwilliams
From: Linda Williams <lcwilliams@in-touch.net>
To: Cecily and Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Pattern Cutouts
Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2000 17:38:33 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

I've purchased supplies from Franklin's in Columbus but mostly I buy from the Busy
Beaver craft store in Beavercreek OH (right outside of Dayton).  It is such an
"interesting" place and Dave the owner is so helpful.  When I took classes, he
offered to let me come in and use his grinder and bring in the project to help
with.
He also told me to use chap stick to go over my lines before grinding.  Neat
tip!!!
Linda

Cecily and Ralph Wood wrote:

> They make a stuff you sp;read on over your marking, but it is probably beeswax
> based and too hard - you can actually rub off the markings putting it on.  I
> use plain old Vasoline (petroleum jelly).  I also use it to lubricate the
> grinder, instead of paying  for fancy lubricants. - Cec
>
> Jacque1263@aol.com wrote:
>
> > I like the idea of using vellum and I will have to try it. I have been doing
> > it the old fashion way of tracing around the pieces with a sharpie and it
> > gets quite aggrivating when you try and grind the pieces. The marker just
> > does not stay on the glass.
> > Jacque
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
> --
> *********************************************************************
> *  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
> *  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
> *********************************************************************
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

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From owner-glass Sun Mar 19 18:02:46 2000
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From: Valerieksj@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: vellum? Pattern Cutouts
Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2000 19:03:36 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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In a message dated 03/19/2000 9:01:08 PM !!!First Boot!!!, 
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk writes:

<< glass@bungi.com >>


Hi  everyone,
 This is my first time responding to this talk. Thanks for the opportunity. 
 Having been an artist all of my life, I've come to find out that names mean 
nothing. What someone calls vellum at one store, someone else calls fancy 
paper or something at another. 
Vellum paper, as it refers to stained glass and pattern making, is usually a 
very thin paper worthy of drawing your cartoons on. I've used what we 
referred to as vellum while designing for a local studio near me for years. I 
used it for drawing the initial cartoons on it. Pattern pieces (if any used ) 
were made from heavier stock. I saw where someone was concerned with the ink 
coming off during grinding operations - use a fine coating of vaseline over 
your glass before grinding. When you're done with grinding all your pieces, 
simply wash them all in soapy water to remove the vaseline. Works every 
time...
good luck, 


Doug StJohn
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From owner-glass Sun Mar 19 18:33:14 2000
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Subject: Lady Jane Exhibit
Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2000 20:33:00 EST
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Bud Britt sent this URL out some time ago for Lady Jane's glass houses.       
            http://www.ladyjane.com
 I was fascinated immediately and I kept going back there to look at more 
detail and always wondered if I could make one. 
When looking at the website I noticed she had an exhibit right here--right 
now.
So I went--it was fabulous her work is impeccable -I studied every seam and 
hinge and now I am no longer afraid to tackle one myself. Most of the glass 
was just clear window glass, some spectrum and some antique.
Now here is the part that shocked me..when I looked at her prices my eyeballs 
fell out.............and at the exhibit she had 10 to 15 houses and MOST of 
them had SOLD stickers on them....now am I in the wrong business or what??
If you ever have the chance to go see Lady Jane's Houses do so, it's worth 
the trip.
It's on its way to Chicago right now.
Gotta go build a house.............
Janice
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From owner-glass Sun Mar 19 22:33:16 2000
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X-Path: earthlink.net!glasscutter
From: Gerry Phibbs <glasscutter@earthlink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: vellum?  Pattern Cutouts
Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2000 05:30:19 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Organization: International Guild of Glass Artists, Inc
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for "reddress",
  Vellum technically refers back to the practice of using calf or lamb
skin, stretched very thin, to make a parchment writing surface.
  But in today's terminology, "vellum" generally refers to "drafting
vellum" which is available at most art supply stores, and a number of
other outlets.  It's available in sketchbook format, as well as the more
typical rolls, in widths of various size.  I keep several rolls on hand
for my glass designs.
  This drafting vellum is of very good quality, but it's thin enough so
that you can see through it.  This allows you to trace over something,
to generate a design, or to use various designs in combination to form a
larger design.  I like drawing my glass designs by hand, because I
believe that any line that I have trouble drawing properly, will also be
a line that I'm going to have trouble cutting in glass.
  Yes.. I know.. in this day of computers and plotters, hand drawing
designs seems rather old fashioned.  But I prefer the actual hand
drawing process to anything I can do on a computer, for most glass designs.
  One other advantage of using vellum, once you've completed your
drawing, you can take it to a blue printing house, and have several
copies of it made on the stiffer blue print paper.  I prefer the blue
line on white paper, but some folks prefer a black line on white paper,
others like the white line one blue paper.  You can even have it printed
on clear acetate, which helps if you work on a light table.  Whatever
floats your boat.
  For most of my work, I have at least two blue prints made, often I get
a third "flopped" meaning printed backwards.  I use the backwards print
as a layout pattern for assembling my panels.  Since my "good side" is
down on the flopped pattern, I can be assured that regardless of the
glass texture, or thickness, I'll have a fairly flat "good side" of the
panel.  Also, since I'm soldering the backside of the panel first, I can
add in any reinforcement that I want right then and there, before I flip
the panel over and do the finished soldering on the front of the panel. 
Again, this is just what I do.. you can do whatever you wish.
  Peace  -Gerry
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From owner-glass Sun Mar 19 23:35:43 2000
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From: "Sietsema" <sietsemas@lakeshore.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Mt. Olympus Zeus Grinder w/ 6" Disc
Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2000 20:50:51 -0500
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Precedence: bulk

Hello to you all!

I've been a lurker on the list for a little while now, and I appreciate all
the comments and information you all so willingly share.  I am a novice and
have been looking to purchase a grinder and came across the Mt. Olympus
Zeus Grinder for $89.95 on the Warner-Crivellaro web site.   Is this a good
grinder, or would you recommend a different one for around the same price? 
Is the disc something that is a plus?  

Any comments would be appreciated.   Thanks again.  Have a great week.
LeeAnn in Michigan

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From owner-glass Mon Mar 20 01:35:26 2000
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From: Dee Thompson <deethom@erols.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: pattern cut out
Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2000 15:25:46 -0500
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Precedence: bulk

I haven't kept up, but has anyone mentioned old X-ray films?  easy to get
if you ask a tech in one of the offices.
Dee
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From owner-glass Mon Mar 20 06:42:13 2000
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From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: In Search of Motorcycle Pattern
Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2000 09:30:37 -0500
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Message text written by INTERNET:Romajoco@aol.com
>Got a question for everyone.  I was asked to possibly do a panel of a HD=
 =

motorcycle.  Does anyone know where I might find one.<

I've got one I sell for $2.00.  I patterned it based on photographs of my=

brother's bike, but it can be modified to reflect the customized job each=

HD owner does to their baby.  If you want it, just send me $2.00 to the
address below, and I'll mail it to you.  It's about 10" wide x 8" tall an=
d
can be dimensioned up to suit your purposes.

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
405 E. Walnut Street Rear
North Wales, PA USA
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From owner-glass Mon Mar 20 07:37:47 2000
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From: Dina and Don Hess <ddhess@america.net>
To: Dee Thompson <deethom@erols.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: pattern cut out
Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2000 09:07:44 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<3.0.32.20000319152545.00d34638@pop.erols.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Yes, they work great!  My husband and I have used them on our last
several projects.  Durable, free, and opaque enough to be seen but
transparent enough to trace through.

d

Dee Thompson wrote:
> 
> I haven't kept up, but has anyone mentioned old X-ray films?  easy to get
> if you ask a tech in one of the offices.
> Dee
> ----
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From owner-glass Mon Mar 20 08:16:39 2000
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Subject: Fwd: pattern cut out
Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2000 11:02:20 EST
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In a message dated 3/20/00 12:00:38 PM Eastern Daylight Time, Jacque1263 
writes:

<< 
 I have to tell you all that I have loved all the input on this subject. I 
have received several great ideas that I cannot wait to try. I joined this 
list about 2 weeks ago and think it is the greatest. You all are friendly and 
informative.
 
 Thanks!!
 Jacque >>


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Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2000 11:00:38 EST
Subject: Re: pattern cut out
To: glass@byngi.com
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I have to tell you all that I have loved all the input on this subject. I 
have received several great ideas that I cannot wait to try. I joined this 
list about 2 weeks ago and think it is the greatest. You all are friendly and 
informative.

Thanks!!
Jacque

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From owner-glass Mon Mar 20 10:53:56 2000
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From: Romajoco@aol.com
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Subject: Help Needed Again
Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2000 13:35:49 EST
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First of all, I want to thank all that responded to me about the HD 
Motorcycle pattern.  Should be getting one in a few days....thanks especially 
to Christie Wood.

Now I have another question.  A while back there was a question put out by 
someone else on this same thing......However, I never did see any public list 
response to it.

I would like to make a panel in the "Child's Play" pattern book.  It is the 
panel that is called "Can I Play Too".  I want to make this and give it to my 
little boy's school....but I would like to have 2 children in it with 1 child 
being a child of color. 
I know what glass I can get for 1 child; but, I do not ever remember seeing 
or hearing what is a good glass shade for a child of color.

Any help that I get will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in Advance,

Margie
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From owner-glass Mon Mar 20 12:59:58 2000
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From: James Kehler <jkehler@bellatlantic.net>
To: glass <glass@bungi.com>
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Subject: pattern cutting
Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2000 15:26:21 -0500
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i've also used the mylar plastic often found under sliced bacon- appears
to
be same material as sold for wall painting  stencils.       Holly
Glassics

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From owner-glass Mon Mar 20 13:02:23 2000
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From: barbara elmore <barbaraelmore@yahoo.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: English antique stained glass
Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2000 12:44:13 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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I'm seeing a lot of antique stained glass windows from
England coming up on Ebay for sale.  The designs are
fascinating in that they combine simple, clean lead
lines with some really pretty motifs.  Does anyone
have any information on "rules" to create these types
of patterns (scale, color, etc.)?  

Any reading materials on this style?  What type(s) of
glass is preferred (English Muffle? Any patterns
available?  Any web sites?  Is this part of the new
shabby chic/cottage look?



=====
Thank you,
Barbara Elmore

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From owner-glass Mon Mar 20 13:29:50 2000
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Subject: irons
Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2000 16:24:27 -0500
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I would like to hear what anyone has to say about soldering irons. What's
the best and is a ceramic tip important. Thank you, Kate

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From owner-glass Mon Mar 20 13:32:27 2000
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Valerieksj@aol.com
Subject: Re: vellum? Pattern Cutouts
Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2000 20:25:55 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
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Thanks Doug,
        I guess what you guys call vellum, we call tracing paper ( a
more prosaic name, but descriptive).  It comes in various weights (63
grammes per square metre to 110)  This has to do with the amount of
transparency.  Unfortunately, it is subject to changing size with
different levels of moisture.

Steve

In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, Valerieksj@aol.com writes
>In a message dated 03/19/2000 9:01:08 PM !!!First Boot!!!, 
>s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk writes:
>
><< glass@bungi.com >>
>
>
>Hi  everyone,
> This is my first time responding to this talk. Thanks for the opportunity. 
> Having been an artist all of my life, I've come to find out that names mean 
>nothing. What someone calls vellum at one store, someone else calls fancy 
>paper or something at another. 
>Vellum paper, as it refers to stained glass and pattern making, is usually a 
>very thin paper worthy of drawing your cartoons on. I've used what we 
>referred to as vellum while designing for a local studio near me for years. I 
>used it for drawing the initial cartoons on it. Pattern pieces (if any used ) 
>were made from heavier stock. I saw where someone was concerned with the ink 
>coming off during grinding operations - use a fine coating of vaseline over 
>your glass before grinding. When you're done with grinding all your pieces, 
>simply wash them all in soapy water to remove the vaseline. Works every 
>time...
>good luck, 
>
>
>Doug StJohn
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Mon Mar 20 13:53:15 2000
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Please remove my name off the email list
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From owner-glass Mon Mar 20 14:02:11 2000
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From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: barbara elmore <barbaraelmore@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: English antique stained glass
Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2000 21:44:05 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk

On a slightly different topic.
I have heard that Sunderland Glass has gone out of business.  If so for
the second time in about 3 years.

Steve

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Mon Mar 20 14:32:29 2000
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From: Valerieksj@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: Help Needed Again
Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2000 16:51:52 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Hi again everyone,

I understand the difficulty in finding glass that matches exact skin tones. I 
also have done windows with black people in them. As I have used some  G.N.A. 
glass, or German New Antique - shades of the darker ambers work well. But we 
did alot of painting on glass to get the exact looks we wanted. 
If you're not planning on painting the glass, I still suggest looking at some 
G.N.A. glass. 

Good Luck!!

(if that isn't helpful, how about using multiple layers of glass to achieve 
the exact color range you want.)

Doug StJohn
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From owner-glass Mon Mar 20 14:33:10 2000
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From: Jerry Jaynes <JJaynes@Arch.com>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE: vellum? Pattern Cutouts
Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2000 15:47:22 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk



-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Richard [mailto:s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk]
Sent: Monday, March 20, 2000 2:26 PM
To: Valerieksj@aol.com
Subject: Re: vellum? Pattern Cutouts

I also understand the problem of names! I haven't heard anyone talk much
about it, but I use what "I" have always  called kraft paper. It is in fact
brown shipping paper, boxing paper or whatever you might call it. It does
work wonders for patterns. As far a gluing, I use the big glue sticks from
the office supply store. 

It is cheap about 3 dollars. I use just white packing paper for pattern
tracing (under a light table.) It is also cheap about 3 dollars compared to
11 for actual tracing paper on a roll and I get more paper.

I also found that a little wd40 works as well as vaseline  and it is easier
to use and doesn't clog my grinder so much. 

Good hunting!

Jerry


Thanks Doug,
        I guess what you guys call vellum, we call tracing paper ( a
more prosaic name, but descriptive).  It comes in various weights (63
grammes per square metre to 110)  This has to do with the amount of
transparency.  Unfortunately, it is subject to changing size with
different levels of moisture.

Steve

In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, Valerieksj@aol.com writes
>In a message dated 03/19/2000 9:01:08 PM !!!First Boot!!!, 
>s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk writes:
>
><< glass@bungi.com >>
>
>
>Hi  everyone,
> This is my first time responding to this talk. Thanks for the opportunity.

> Having been an artist all of my life, I've come to find out that names
mean 
>nothing. What someone calls vellum at one store, someone else calls fancy 
>paper or something at another. 
>Vellum paper, as it refers to stained glass and pattern making, is usually
a 
>very thin paper worthy of drawing your cartoons on. I've used what we 
>referred to as vellum while designing for a local studio near me for years.
I 
>used it for drawing the initial cartoons on it. Pattern pieces (if any used
) 
>were made from heavier stock. I saw where someone was concerned with the
ink 
>coming off during grinding operations - use a fine coating of vaseline over

>your glass before grinding. When you're done with grinding all your pieces,

>simply wash them all in soapy water to remove the vaseline. Works every 
>time...
>good luck, 
>
>
>Doug StJohn
>----
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-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Mon Mar 20 14:52:59 2000
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X-Path: home.net!esavad
From: "Mike Savad" <esavad@home.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>,
Subject: RE: Lady Jane Exhibit
Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2000 17:16:09 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

i just wanna know where she got al the neat stuff to go in the houses... i
kind of want one... though i can easily make it, i have no idea where to get
the little oddities that are in each house. moving them around must be a
pain, and cleaning oh boy.... i thought i had over detail things - boy oh
boy.


---Mike Savad


Mike's Stained Glass - Tips Tricks Photos
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
9-12-99 - New Pages Added: 3 new Tips sections - Reader's Tips, Making your
own Glass Filigree, and Cutting Different types of glass. There are also a
lot of new Sky City pictures.


> -----Original Message-----
> From: GlasLdy@aol.com [mailto:GlasLdy@aol.com]
> Sent: Sunday, March 19, 2000 8:33 PM
> To: glass@bungi.com; glass@intrastar.net
> Subject: Lady Jane Exhibit
>
>
>
> Bud Britt sent this URL out some time ago for Lady Jane's glass
> houses.
>             http://www.ladyjane.com
>  I was fascinated immediately and I kept going back there to look at more
> detail and always wondered if I could make one.
> When looking at the website I noticed she had an exhibit right
> here--right
> now.
> So I went--it was fabulous her work is impeccable -I studied
> every seam and
> hinge and now I am no longer afraid to tackle one myself. Most of
> the glass
> was just clear window glass, some spectrum and some antique.
> Now here is the part that shocked me..when I looked at her prices
> my eyeballs
> fell out.............and at the exhibit she had 10 to 15 houses
> and MOST of
> them had SOLD stickers on them....now am I in the wrong business or what??
> If you ever have the chance to go see Lady Jane's Houses do so,
> it's worth
> the trip.
> It's on its way to Chicago right now.
> Gotta go build a house.............
> Janice
> ----
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From owner-glass Mon Mar 20 15:03:40 2000
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X-Path: yahoo.com!barbaraelmore
From: barbara elmore <barbaraelmore@yahoo.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: English antique stained glass
Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2000 12:43:01 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

I'm seeing a lot of antique stained glass windows from
England coming up on Ebay for sale.  The designs are
fascinating in that they combine simple, clean lead
lines with some really pretty motifs.  Does anyone
have any information on "rules" to create these types
of patterns (scale, color, etc.)?  

Any reading materials on this style?  What type(s) of
glass is preferred (English Muffle?)?  Any patterns
available?  Any web sites?  Is this part of the new
shabby chic/cottage look?



=====
Thank you,
Barbara Elmore

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From owner-glass Mon Mar 20 15:08:00 2000
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From: Jacque1263@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: irons
Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2000 17:37:04 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Katie,

I happen to like the ceramic tip irons. They heat up and cool down quicker 
than the others. I have had my Inland iron for almost 3 years without a 
problem and I am just now buying a new tip for it.

Jacque
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From owner-glass Mon Mar 20 16:08:04 2000
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From: Carol Tombro <ctombro@InfoAve.Net>
To: Mike Savad <esavad@home.net>, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Lady Jane Exhibit
Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2000 18:37:43 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@[207.126.97.2]>>
Organization: SBWSA
Precedence: bulk



Mike Savad wrote:

> i just wanna know where she got al the neat stuff to go in the houses... i
> kind of want one...
>
> Mike,

   Lady Jane works with miniatures.  Most of her "stuff" in these glass houses
or conservatories are handmade flowers and plants, chandeliers, Bespaq furniture
and custom made furniture.  All of this is in 12th inch scale and there is more
than I've already mentioned.  Her Rain Forest was sold before it was finished;
had a fountain, tropical plants and sold for I believe close to $30,000.  The
miniatures inside her creations are mostly done by artisans who work in small
scale and the way the houses have been received (some are sold before we even
can see them), have really elevated her and her husband/partner? (Sir David) to
artisan status in the miniature world.

Carol T

>
> -
>
>
>

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From owner-glass Mon Mar 20 18:02:09 2000
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From: GlasLdy@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Re: Lady Jane Exhibit
Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2000 19:57:37 EST
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In a message dated 3/20/00 10:54:41 PM !!!First Boot!!!, esavad@home.net 
writes:

<<  just wanna know where she got al the neat stuff to go in the houses... i
 kind of want one... though i can easily make it, i have no idea where to get
 the little oddities that are in each house. moving them around must be a
 pain, and cleaning oh boy.... i thought i had over detail things - boy oh
 boy. >>

I have always been into miniatures, we have our daughters dollhouse in our 
living room that we built from scratch--so I was kinda thinking of doing the 
whole thing in glass.  I learned to make all of those plants using green 
floral tape and a punch to create real looking looped rugs.
But anyway, next to Lady Jane's business cards were business cards from a 
local miniature store-you would be amazed at what they sell.  You could also 
try any craft store and I know Franks Nursery & Crafts has a miniature 
section.  When you get into this you loose perspective real quick.
I noticed at the ceiling of all her rooms/houses she had lights (like 
mini-neon) soldered to the seams and a hook on every seam--so you could hang 
those chandeliers and plants wherever you want.  No one was in the gallery 
when I opened one of the doors of a display to see if everything was glued 
down--and yes all that stuff was glued tight.
When the door is closed they are pretty much air tight so you wouldn't have 
to dust!  The only one I saw with a roof that wasn't attached was her Gazebo.
I'm getting excited all over again--it's always good to start thinking of a 
new project.
Janice
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From owner-glass Mon Mar 20 23:02:57 2000
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X-Path: home.com!cecnralph
From: Cecily and Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
To: Marea G <marea_g@hotmail.com>, Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Subject: Re: Pattern Cutouts
Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2000 22:16:29 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<20000320222307.40338.qmail@hotmail.com>>
Organization: Grendel Studios
Precedence: bulk

Yes, you slather a bit on the shaft each time you remove the grinder head to
clean or to switch the head.  I always take a paper towel and wipe the shaft
clean first, just to get rid of glass dust and chips.  My original grinder came
with a minute amount of goop, supposedly containing teflon, and expensive.
However, another manufacturer noted that they use petroleum jelly, so I do
too.  As you may have noticed, the grinder head gets hot, as does the shaft,
and this is supposed to prevent the head from "freezing" on the shaft so you
can't get it off.

Marea G wrote:

> >From: Cecily and Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
> >To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
> >Subject: Re: Pattern Cutouts
> >Date: Sat, 18 Mar 2000 20:30:09 -0500
> >
> Hi Cec
>
> Do you use the petroleum jelly on the grinder shaft? I am not sure where you
> have to lubricate the grinder.
>
> Thanks
>
> Marea Georgiou
> Australia
>
> >They make a stuff you sp;read on over your marking, but it is probably
> >beeswax
> >based and too hard - you can actually rub off the markings putting it on.
> >I
> >use plain old Vasoline (petroleum jelly).  I also use it to lubricate the
> >grinder, instead of paying  for fancy lubricants. - Cec
> >
> >Jacque1263@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > > I like the idea of using vellum and I will have to try it. I have been
> >doing
> > > it the old fashion way of tracing around the pieces with a sharpie and
> >it
> > > gets quite aggrivating when you try and grind the pieces. The marker
> >just
> > > does not stay on the glass.
> > > Jacque
> > > ----
> > > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> >
> >--
> >*********************************************************************
> >*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
> >*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
> >*********************************************************************
> >
> >
> >----
> >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> >To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
> ______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

--
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************


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From owner-glass Mon Mar 20 23:19:24 2000
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From: Applecreekglass@aol.com
To: JJaynes@Arch.com, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: vellum? Pattern Cutouts
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 02:09:21 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

this is my first machine so  I am not sure if this will get thouugh.I thought 
I sent a message the other day but I do not think it got out. I have been 
breaKING GLASS for about 5 or 6 years mostly suncatchers and nitelites I 
prefer copperfoil for the detail work.I use a process that works very well 
for small projects.I photocopy patterns, 2 or 3 or more then I coat each side 
with at least 3 coats of the cheapest clear paint walmart carries.I start 
with the back as the paint will make the ink run until it is sealed through 
the back.I usually have several patterns going at once so I do not hae to 
wait  too long.I spray the back then let it dry.A heat gun or hair dryer 
helps alot. After the process is complete the pattern is almost like rubber 
and waTERproof.I use a gluestick from an office supply store as it is water 
soliuble but I let the glue dry over night.I then cut around the pattern and 
grind to the edge of the paper. I treat the pattern before I cut out as this 
makes it easier to handle.As I finish grinding each piece I drop it in a 
bucket of warm water.This makes the pattern start to release if I peel it off 
underwater and wash off the glue I can dry it between pieces of plastic.After 
a week or when I think of it I take the pattern  out and store the pieces in 
a ziplock bag until next time.Has anyone else tryed this ? What do you think?
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From owner-glass Tue Mar 21 00:36:15 2000
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From: gmacfarland@juno.com
To: BLUEHERON@etinternet.net
Subject: Re: pattern cut out
Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2000 22:37:24 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Connie,
You might try a supply house for architects.  My son-in-law works for a
blueprint shop and they carry mylar there in big sheets.
Gail

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From owner-glass Tue Mar 21 03:01:27 2000
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From: Stephanie N Larson <pennyante@juno.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: Re: Lady Jane Exhibit
Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2000 17:59:46 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Wow! Tell me about it! My husband and I have kinda messed around with
miniatures (we're currently attempting our first dollhouse) but I haven't
seen plants and bricks like she's using. I'd love to find out if she made
those or obtained them. If you look at the credits, she accredits alot of
the stuff that goes into her "houses" to other artisans. I wonder if
something similar would be available out on the big blue web? I know you
can't find them at your local hobby or miniatures shop. The electrical
part is easy, once you've done it once.

Stephanie
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From owner-glass Tue Mar 21 03:05:42 2000
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From: "J. Dahlin" <jdahlin@pro-ns.net>
To: Jacque1263@aol.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: irons
Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2000 19:37:47 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

I also use the Inland ceramic iron and have had one in the neighborhood
of 7 years.  This past summer I bought a second one to have on hand just
in case something happens to the one I have been using.  This way I have
one here in the city and one in our lake home where I do most of my
soldering.

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From owner-glass Tue Mar 21 04:07:51 2000
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From: BMarhon@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: Lady Jane Exhibit
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 06:46:24 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

When I looked at the Lady Jane exhibit I was thinking that some of the houses 
looked very much like a line of medieval structure kits that the company I 
work for imports from Spain.  They are constructed of real miniature clay 
bricks 1/2" x 3/8", flat ceramic roof tiles, and comes with everything you 
need to complete the kit.  The kits range in price from $29.99 up to $149.99 
for a medieval village and there are a couple of churches, country houses and 
even a Romanesque monastary.  The Norm Thompson catalog buys from us and 
sells the $29.99 one for over $50.00, so these are a good buy and might be a 
starting point where you could subsitute a glass frame for the central 
portion of the structure.

Take a look at www.modelexpoinc.com and then type in Domus at the search 
block.
Brenda



<< Wow! Tell me about it! My husband and I have kinda messed around with
 miniatures (we're currently attempting our first dollhouse) but I haven't
 seen plants and bricks like she's using. I'd love to find out if she made
 those or obtained them. If you look at the credits, she accredits alot of
 the stuff that goes into her "houses" to other artisans. I wonder if
 something similar would be available out on the big blue web? I know you
 can't find them at your local hobby or miniatures shop. The electrical
 part is easy, once you've done it once.
 
 Stephanie >>
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From owner-glass Tue Mar 21 04:14:06 2000
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From: BMarhon@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: Lady Jane Exhibit
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 06:52:04 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

I just realized that there is a web special on the large country house (the 
one Norm Thompson bought) for only $22.99 - this is the one that most 
reminded me of the Lady Jane exhibit.  

<< Take a look at www.modelexpoinc.com and then type in Domus at the search 
block. >>
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From owner-glass Tue Mar 21 08:02:24 2000
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X-Path: ilnk.com!andor
From: "Linda Jo Letscher" <andor@ilnk.com>
To: "Bungi" <Glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Work Table
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 10:34:24 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

I have just inherited a nice 4x4foot work table.  The only problem it was
use for gnomes or something.  It is only 27 inches high.  I do use a low
work table as I have to work sitting down but........

I would like with my limited wood working skills raise the hight of the
table only about 4 inches.  Any suggestions.  I have some 2x4'a hanging
around and that 4inches (3 1/2) will be fine as I am going to put a new
sheet of 3/4 inch plywood on the top.  But just cant visualize where to
screw or nail them.

I just can't seem to come up with something easy that will also be sturdy.

Thanks guys, I am open to any suggestions.
Linda Jo


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From owner-glass Tue Mar 21 08:32:32 2000
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X-Path: aol.com!Bobfuses
From: Bobfuses@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: Work Table
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 11:23:11 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

In a message dated 3/21/00 8:03:45 AM Pacific Standard Time, andor@ilnk.com 
writes:

> I would like with my limited wood working skills raise the height of the
> table only about 4 inches.  Any suggestions.

My home Depot sells cement bricks that are 4 X 4 X 2"s for about 39 cents 
each. I have one or two under each leg of most of my tables. I have also 
shimmed a table up with pieces of 1/4" plate glass. Cheap, easy and convent. 
What more do you want on a fine Tuesday morning!

Bob in 9 2 0 2 6

Ps: BTB, she's packing now.
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From owner-glass Tue Mar 21 09:02:34 2000
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X-Path: POBox.com!nadinesfolly
From: "Nadine BethSchneider" <nadinesfolly@POBox.com>
To: <Bobfuses@aol.com>,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE: Work Table
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 11:53:19 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
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Who's packing?

Nadine Beth Schneider
Nadine's Folly Art Glass Studio
703.724.7489
www.nadinesfolly.com


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From owner-glass Tue Mar 21 09:09:33 2000
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From: Dee Thompson <deethom@erols.com>
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Subject: Re: Work Table
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 12:03:06 -0500
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I've used large cans/plastic tubs filled with sand before to adjust tables,
also used concrete when the correct height was established.
dee
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From owner-glass Tue Mar 21 11:45:30 2000
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From: BMarhon@aol.com
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Subject: Re: Work Table
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 13:01:27 EST
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Watch out Linda Jo - some of us "gnomes" like our tables at 27 inches.  I had 
mine custom made to that height!
Brenda

<< I have just inherited a nice 4x4foot work table.  The only problem it was
 use for gnomes or something.  It is only 27 inches high.  I do use a low
 work table as I have to work sitting down but........ >>
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From owner-glass Tue Mar 21 13:17:42 2000
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From: "Linda Jo Letscher" <andor@ilnk.com>
To: "Bungi" <Glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Lead Poisoning
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 15:50:19 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Off the top of anyone's head, does anyone know symptoms of lead poisoning?
I just got a note from a friend that is having some memory problems, very
tired lately and works a lot with lead and I really don't know what all the
symptoms are.  I will spend some time later this evening trying to find out
but if anyone has anything at hand or off the top of their head let me know
so I can forward it to her.  She is a long time glasser and sure do hope she
is ok.
Thanks,
Linda Jo


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From owner-glass Tue Mar 21 13:32:53 2000
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From: "Linda Jo Letscher" <andor@ilnk.com>
To: "Bungi" <Glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Gnomes
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 15:43:23 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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My apologies to all short good gnomes out there that use 27 inch tables to
work on:-)
Linda Jo


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From owner-glass Tue Mar 21 14:03:57 2000
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X-Path: america.net!ddhess
From: Dina and Don Hess <ddhess@america.net>
To: Linda Jo Letscher <andor@ilnk.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Lead Poisoning
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 15:48:07 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
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Can you gently recommend that she go see her doctor?  A simple blood
test will tell her if lead is a problem -- and if not, then they can run
other tests to try to diagnose what really is affecting her.

d


Linda Jo Letscher wrote:
> 
> Off the top of anyone's head, does anyone know symptoms of lead poisoning?
> I just got a note from a friend that is having some memory problems, very
> tired lately and works a lot with lead and I really don't know what all the
> symptoms are.  I will spend some time later this evening trying to find out
> but if anyone has anything at hand or off the top of their head let me know
> so I can forward it to her.  She is a long time glasser and sure do hope she
> is ok.
> Thanks,
> Linda Jo
> 
> ----
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From owner-glass Tue Mar 21 14:04:00 2000
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X-Path: bright.net!arasai
From: "Sarah" <arasai@bright.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: Pattern cut-outs
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 14:19:19 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_003D_01BF9340.72318060
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I've been reading what everyone does with their pattern pieces, and had =
to throw in my two cents! After I cut out my pieces, I lay them out on =
clear, low-gloss contact paper, apply another piece of contact paper =
over the top, and trim around each piece. I also seal my main pattern or =
cartoon in contact paper. I get a lot of mileage out of my patterns this =
way! I buy a roll of 20 or so feet at our office supply store for about =
3 bucks.

------=_NextPart_000_003D_01BF9340.72318060
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.3013.2600" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000080 size=3D4><STRONG><EM>I've been reading what =
everyone does=20
with their pattern pieces, and had to throw in my two cents! After I cut =
out my=20
pieces, I lay them out on clear, low-gloss contact paper, apply another =
piece of=20
contact paper over the top, and trim around each piece. I also seal my =
main=20
pattern or cartoon in contact paper. I get a lot of mileage out of my =
patterns=20
this way! I buy a roll of 20 or so feet at our office supply store for =
about 3=20
bucks.</EM></STRONG></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_003D_01BF9340.72318060--

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From owner-glass Tue Mar 21 14:35:17 2000
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X-Path: stratus.com!Charlie_Spitzer
From: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie_Spitzer@stratus.com>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE: Lead Poisoning
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 14:39:57 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

try asking questions at http://www.askjeeves.com

it states:

 

                       Lead Paint was banned in U.S. residential paint in
1978. 
                       (It was banned in France and many other countries
prior to 1920.) 
                       Three-quarters of the nation's housing contains lead
paint.  
                       Lead poisoning is a serious disease.  
                       Children under six are most at risk. 
                       Children from every region, race, and socioeconomic
level are at risk  
                       Lead poisoning causes learning and developmental
disabilities.  
                       There are usually no symptoms.  
                       Even children who appear healthy can have dangerous
levels of lead in their
                       blood.  
                       Lead poisoning is preventable.  
                       Most lead poisoning happens at home.  
                       The primary cause is tiny particles of lead dust from
deteriorated paint 
                       or from painted surfaces disturbed during remodeling,
repair or renovation.  
                       Lead dust is invisible, so tiny in fact that it
passes through most masks & filters.  
                       Lead poisoning affects adults as well as kids.  

-----Original Message-----
From: Linda Jo Letscher [mailto:andor@ilnk.com]
Sent: Tuesday, March 21, 2000 1:50 PM
To: Bungi
Subject: Lead Poisoning


Off the top of anyone's head, does anyone know symptoms of lead poisoning?
I just got a note from a friend that is having some memory problems, very
tired lately and works a lot with lead and I really don't know what all the
symptoms are.  I will spend some time later this evening trying to find out
but if anyone has anything at hand or off the top of their head let me know
so I can forward it to her.  She is a long time glasser and sure do hope she
is ok.
Thanks,
Linda Jo


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From owner-glass Tue Mar 21 15:35:27 2000
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X-Path: aol.com!Romajoco
From: Romajoco@aol.com
To: Glass@bungi.com, glass@intrastar.net
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Trying To Find A Book
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 18:07:41 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hi there, 

I just came across a SG pattern book that is copyrighted in 1991; its' titled 
is "Another Patch of Country" by Linda Lowe and Mary Darrow.  There was 
another book before this titled "Patches of Country".  These books have some 
real cute little quilt patterns in them. They would not only be good for 
glass but for anyone that quilts also.

Does anyone have one of these  in their stash that they would like to get rid 
of?  If so please email me.

Thanks,

Margie

Margie

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From owner-glass Tue Mar 21 15:35:51 2000
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X-Path: mtcon.net!shigbee
From: "Shari" <shigbee@mtcon.net>
To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Stained Glass to see in Dallas?
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 16:35:59 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hi all. In one of my "other" lives I work as a volunteer with the
Make-A-Wish Foundation. We are granting a wish of a little Utah boy who
wants to go to Dallas and meet the Prez. of a computer company. Anyway, this
little boy's hobby is stained glass. When asked what else he wants to do
while in Dallas he said he wants to see stained glass windows.

Does anyone have any suggestions for where we should send him to see some
great windows/panels/anything in stained glass?

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Shari in SLC


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From owner-glass Tue Mar 21 18:03:11 2000
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From: Lee Boe <leestat7@home.com>
To: Linda Jo Letscher <andor@ilnk.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Lead Poisoning
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 20:35:15 -0500
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Organization: @Home Network
Precedence: bulk

Hi Linda,

I've been too tired and in surgical recovery now to do much more than
lurk, but this is important-  

Memory problems, fatigue, general malaise, are symptoms of so many
things that a complete blood work up, including heavy metal screening is
the only way for her doctor (I hope she goes) to tell just what it is.  

Here are some of the main things,

Fibromyalgia, Chronic Fatigue syndrome, post injury trauma recovery,
Lead poisoning, mercury poisoning, Low thyroid, early onset Alzheimer's
(sometimes related to Aluminum) Stress related disorders, and so on and
so on.  With out the blood work up; and heavy metal screening, it is all
just guess work.  Please urge her to see a good 'Family Doctor' I sure
hope she has some kind of insurance.  Make sure she lets the doctor know
she has worked with lead, and other toxic materials.  

My current diagnoses, besides the two new fused joints in my right
foot,  (don't even ask how much that hurts ) includes Fibromyalgia,
Chronic Fatigue syndrome, low blood sugar, Post Traumatic injury
syndrome, permanent right S1 radiciulapathy, degenerative disk problems
caused by the first fall in 1989, a bone fragment in the spinal canal,
spinal cord injury, and permanent sciatic nerve damage.  That's just for
starters.  HOWEVER -my heavy metal screenings are all ok, including
lead, mercury.  Some of these things create other problems, like allergy
to mercury compounds, which I have.   Contact lens solutions are
preserved with a mercury compound (thimerisol), and most flu and
pneumonia vaccines too.  That means, I can't even get a tetanus shot. 
Ask if she had flu/pneumonia shots this winter??? The allergy causes
mental fatigue, and sometimes gross itching, plus short term memory
loss.   After being hospitalized 3 times this winter, I am also allergic
to Morphine, and Dilaudid, plus a couple of others, makes you feel like
every blood vessel is itching.  I could go on, but you get the picture. 
Just between you and me, the book "Final Exit" by Derrick Humphery is on
my book shelf. There come a point that the body can no longer tolerate
constant unremitting pain.  

The main IGGA site has the info.  http://www.igga.org/menua.htm one
industrial safety and chemicals.

Don't anyone worry, I'm not there yet.  But, Please Please tell her to
go to the doctor without delay.

Lee Boe (Mainly lurking)
Rain-Boe's Creations

Linda Jo Letscher wrote:
> 
> Off the top of anyone's head, does anyone know symptoms of lead poisoning?
> I just got a note from a friend that is having some memory problems, very
> tired lately and works a lot with lead and I really don't know what all the
> symptoms are.  I will spend some time later this evening trying to find out
> but if anyone has anything at hand or off the top of their head let me know
> so I can forward it to her.  She is a long time glasser and sure do hope she
> is ok.
> Thanks,
> Linda Jo
> 
> ----
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> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
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From owner-glass Tue Mar 21 18:05:27 2000
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From: AbbieN2Glass@aol.com
To: andor@ilnk.com, Glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: Gnomes
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 20:35:37 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Speaking of Gnomes...Has anyone heard from P.Kelly...Abbie in Va
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From owner-glass Tue Mar 21 18:35:08 2000
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X-Path: worldnet.att.net!Moya-Don
From: "D. ONeal" <Moya-Don@worldnet.att.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Stained Glass in Dallas
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 21:05:19 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Shari,
Funny you should ask this question.  I was reading an old copy of
"Professional Stained Glass", July 1986 issue. On page 30 is the following
list:

    Children's Medical Center Chapel            Scottish Rite Hospital
Meditation Room
    1936 Amelia Street                                 Maple Avenue

    Margot Perot Hospital Chapel                  St. Jude's Chapel
    Presbyterian Hospital                              1521 Main Street at
Stone Court
    8200 Walnut Hill Lane

    Lobby Skylight Dome                               Zion Lutheran Church
    Lowe's Anatole Hotel                               Lover's Lane at
Skillman

    Tavern of the Fierce Sparrow                   Old Spaghetti Warehouse
    Hilton Inn                                                 1815 N.
Market Street
    Mockingbird Land at N. Central Expressway

    Hyatt Regency Hotel                                 Houlihan's
    Piano Bar, Main Lobby                              #4 Northpark East
    300 Reunion Boulevard

    Episcopal Church of the Ascension            Lover's Lane United
Methodist Church
    8787 Greenville at Ross                            Inwood Road &
Northwest Highway

    Prestonwood Baptist Church
    Arapaho Road and Hillcrest

Hope this helps.  I am sure that if you were to let any of these folks know
you were coming you would get a fine Texas welcome.

Moya

Moya's Stained Glass
Sylva, NC 28779

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From owner-glass Tue Mar 21 18:35:47 2000
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From: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@ix.netcom.com>
To: Linda Jo Letscher <andor@ilnk.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Lead Poisoning
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 20:24:17 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

The symtoms you describe could be so many things...
Depression, lack of rest....etc......

Suzanne

Linda Jo Letscher wrote:
> 
> Off the top of anyone's head, does anyone know symptoms of lead poisoning?
> I just got a note from a friend that is having some memory problems, very
> tired lately and works a lot with lead and I really don't know what all the
> symptoms are.  I will spend some time later this evening trying to find out
> but if anyone has anything at hand or off the top of their head let me know
> so I can forward it to her.  She is a long time glasser and sure do hope she
> is ok.
> Thanks,
> Linda Jo
> 
> ----
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From owner-glass Tue Mar 21 18:58:16 2000
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From: "Linda Jo Letscher" <andor@ilnk.com>
To: <Glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: Gnomes
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 21:01:06 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Good one Abbie.  Wonder how he is.
Linda Jo

-----Original Message-----
From: AbbieN2Glass@aol.com <AbbieN2Glass@aol.com>
To: andor@ilnk.com <andor@ilnk.com>; Glass@bungi.com <Glass@bungi.com>
Date: Tuesday, March 21, 2000 8:39 PM
Subject: Re: Gnomes


>Speaking of Gnomes...Has anyone heard from P.Kelly...Abbie in Va


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From owner-glass Tue Mar 21 20:38:52 2000
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From owner-glass Tue Mar 21 21:02:26 2000
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From: ARTIZ01@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Ultralviolet Light?Glue
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 23:35:32 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Looking for something very different for our Home and Garden Showcase.
Was thinking of sandblasting a mirror with a reverse resist, Then using a 
ultraviolet light and glue bevels as my frame.  Does anyone have any idea? I 
know about the blasting part, but I have never used a light before. Thought 
it would be different , and neat.  Any input on the bevel gluing would be 
great. Also how does this glueing hold up in bathrooms with the steam and all?

Thanks
Bob
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From owner-glass Tue Mar 21 21:10:10 2000
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From: "reddress" <reddress@redsuspenders.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Fw: Lead Poisoning
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 23:47:20 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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  Hi - Lee brought up a very good list.    However many of these conditions
have the same symptoms as AMYLOIDOSIS.   Most of the doctors in the world
don't know anything about it because all they have received in medical
school is a 3 minute lecture on how rare it is.  IT is not that rare
anymore.  More and more autopsies are showing that people who supposedly
died from liver,kidney, heart, respiratory etc.   actually had amyloids-
protein deposits that clog up your organs . AMY is a VERY SERIOUS disease
and SHOULD BE TESTED FOR if symptoms dont go away.    some of the symptoms
are -extreme tiredness,weakness, muscle pain and migrating pain and spasms,
tingling and cold in fingers and hands, carparl tunnel, allergies, rashes,
gastro-intestinal problems, diahhrea, vomiting, poor sleep, swelling of legs
and feet, HIGH sed ratefactor,
 ridged fingernails, thyroid problems, allergies.
There are other symptoms and a victim may only have one or several of these
symptoms.  there are 4 main types of amy. AL primary (most prevalent and
cause unknown), Secondary - caused as an outcome of high fever diseases,
chronic immune system disorders (chron's disease, lupus),
Familial - hereditary    and   Alzheimers.  Boston University Medical Center
has been doing research for over 30 years. It is THE LEADER in amyloidosis
research.  Mayo and Sloan Kettering are 2 others, but not as aggressive in
their treatments as of right now.  Insurance coverage is a bitch.   There is
a growing awareness movement  just starting to really roll.  Awareness
ribbons are burgandy with a heart.  The 3 main  Tv networks and COngress are
being addressed.    Lack of knowledge, lack of testing and misdiagnosing are
sending a lot of people to their graves and this is not a joke.  it is
very,very serious.
 Linda - one of amy's victums

----- Original Message -----
From: Lee Boe <leestat7@home.com>
To: Linda Jo Letscher <andor@ilnk.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 21, 2000 8:35 PM
Subject: Re: Lead Poisoning


> Hi Linda,
>
> I've been too tired and in surgical recovery now to do much more than
> lurk, but this is important-
>
> Memory problems, fatigue, general malaise, are symptoms of so many
> things that a complete blood work up, including heavy metal screening is
> the only way for her doctor (I hope she goes) to tell just what it is.
>
> Here are some of the main things,
>
> Fibromyalgia, Chronic Fatigue syndrome, post injury trauma recovery,
> Lead poisoning, mercury poisoning, Low thyroid, early onset Alzheimer's
> (sometimes related to Aluminum) Stress related disorders, and so on and
> so on.  With out the blood work up; and heavy metal screening, it is all
> just guess work.  Please urge her to see a good 'Family Doctor' I sure
> hope she has some kind of insurance.  Make sure she lets the doctor know
> she has worked with lead, and other toxic materials.
>
> My current diagnoses, besides the two new fused joints in my right
> foot,  (don't even ask how much that hurts ) includes Fibromyalgia,
> Chronic Fatigue syndrome, low blood sugar, Post Traumatic injury
> syndrome, permanent right S1 radiciulapathy, degenerative disk problems
> caused by the first fall in 1989, a bone fragment in the spinal canal,
> spinal cord injury, and permanent sciatic nerve damage.  That's just for
> starters.  HOWEVER -my heavy metal screenings are all ok, including
> lead, mercury.  Some of these things create other problems, like allergy
> to mercury compounds, which I have.   Contact lens solutions are
> preserved with a mercury compound (thimerisol), and most flu and
> pneumonia vaccines too.  That means, I can't even get a tetanus shot.
> Ask if she had flu/pneumonia shots this winter??? The allergy causes
> mental fatigue, and sometimes gross itching, plus short term memory
> loss.   After being hospitalized 3 times this winter, I am also allergic
> to Morphine, and Dilaudid, plus a couple of others, makes you feel like
> every blood vessel is itching.  I could go on, but you get the picture.
> Just between you and me, the book "Final Exit" by Derrick Humphery is on
> my book shelf. There come a point that the body can no longer tolerate
> constant unremitting pain.
>
> The main IGGA site has the info.  http://www.igga.org/menua.htm one
> industrial safety and chemicals.
>
> Don't anyone worry, I'm not there yet.  But, Please Please tell her to
> go to the doctor without delay.
>
> Lee Boe (Mainly lurking)
> Rain-Boe's Creations
>
> Linda Jo Letscher wrote:
> >
> > Off the top of anyone's head, does anyone know symptoms of lead
poisoning?
> > I just got a note from a friend that is having some memory problems,
very
> > tired lately and works a lot with lead and I really don't know what all
the
> > symptoms are.  I will spend some time later this evening trying to find
out
> > but if anyone has anything at hand or off the top of their head let me
know
> > so I can forward it to her.  She is a long time glasser and sure do hope
she
> > is ok.
> > Thanks,
> > Linda Jo
> >
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> ----
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> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>

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From owner-glass Tue Mar 21 21:42:31 2000
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X-Path: aol.com!Bobfuses
From: Bobfuses@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: Ultralviolet Light?Glue
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 00:28:10 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

In a message dated 3/21/00 9:03:05 PM Pacific Standard Time, ARTIZ01@aol.com 
writes:

> Then using a 
>  ultraviolet light and glue bevels as my frame.  Does anyone have any idea? 
I 
> know about the blasting part, but I have never used a light before. Thought 
> it would be different , and neat.  Any input on the bevel gluing would be 
> great. Also how does this gluing hold up in bathrooms with the steam and 
> all?
>  
>  Thanks
>  Bob

You can use use UV glue to glue bevels on the face of a mirror. I have a UV 
light and use it to tack glass with UV glue and then expose the project to 
sunlight on a very clear day at noon for an hour or so. For a simple project 
like described a special UV light is not needed. Remember: UV glues are 
formulated for a certain spectrum of UV light and most UV lights fall short 
of ideal. Mother sun has it all when it comes to curing UV glue.

Practice with window glass cut to bevel shapes and glued to clear glass. This 
will give a good idea of how much glue to use to avoid air voids and 
excessive clean up. Do not apply glue in any pattern that encloses air or it 
will show badly.

Always test glue when using colored glass. Some colors are excellent UV 
blockers. There are UV glues that have a curing agent included and so no 
light or sun is necessary. These will work well with colors.

I doubt that bathroom steam will be a problem.

Locktite makes several UV glues.

Bob in 9 2 0 2 6
When you get an email that asks you to "send it to everyone you know," please 
forget that you know me.
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From owner-glass Tue Mar 21 22:44:25 2000
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From: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@ix.netcom.com>
To: BMarhon@aol.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Work Table
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 23:23:25 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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:o)  I was gonna say...if it's too short, send it my way! 
Trade ya a tall table!  Tired of standing on, or worse, forgetting Im
standing on a box!  OUCH! ;o)

Suzanne

BMarhon@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Watch out Linda Jo - some of us "gnomes" like our tables at 27 inches.  I had
> mine custom made to that height!
> Brenda
> 
> << I have just inherited a nice 4x4foot work table.  The only problem it was
>  use for gnomes or something.  It is only 27 inches high.  I do use a low
>  work table as I have to work sitting down but........ >>
> ----
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From owner-glass Wed Mar 22 06:33:01 2000
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From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Lead Poisoning
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 09:25:35 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Message text written by Lee Boe
>With out the blood work up; and heavy metal screening, it is all
just guess work.  Please urge her to see a good 'Family Doctor' I sure
hope she has some kind of insurance.  Make sure she lets the doctor know
she has worked with lead, and other toxic materials. <

Before she goes to her family doctor for the lead screening, make sure sh=
e
tells the staff that she needs to have a blood test for lead.  The kind
folk at
the doctor's office need to have a special type of vial on hand for the
blood
collection which is going to be tested for lead.  And if you just walk in=

to your
appointment without telling them that you need a lead test, they probably=

won't have the proper blood storage vial on hand, and will have to get yo=
u
to make another appointment.

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
North Wales, PA USA
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From owner-glass Wed Mar 22 08:01:40 2000
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X-Path: ilnk.com!andor
From: "Linda Jo Letscher" <andor@ilnk.com>
To: "Bungi" <Glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Lead poison responses
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 10:24:19 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Thank you all for you input, and I e-mailed the woman that had gotten in
touch with me she lives a long way from the east coast so I cannot
personally take her but....she is seeing a doctor tomorrow.  I forwarded
some of your e-mails to her so she could get a feel for what the group had
to say.  Bottom Line: Get the hell to a doctor........  She said she
appreciated the input from glass folks she doesn't even know.  So we did our
part, which is nice.  What we find out from her just adds to our knowledge
and satefy procedures we should be following.
Regards,
Linda Jo


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From owner-glass Wed Mar 22 08:01:41 2000
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X-Path: mtcon.net!shigbee
From: "Shari" <shigbee@mtcon.net>
To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Lampwork beads class
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 09:00:07 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

I just took the greatest class to learn to make lampworked beads! The hot
glass bug has been nibbling at me for awhile, so when I heard about a class
in Atlanta, and there are no hot glass people in Utah, I jumped at the
chance.

6 of us took a "beginner" bead class by Sylvie Elise Lansdowne
(sylvie205@aol.com) and WOW--it was great! Reasonably priced and just
incredible instruction. Her "beginner" bead class was like: "this is how you
turn on your tanks and light your torch. Now let's go make a mermaid."

I almost signed up for the 8-hr beginner bead class in Las Vegas/Glass Craft
Expo. It was $260 for 8 hours. But Sylvie's class was all weekend for about
the same price. Plus she has facilities where we stayed right at the
house--they call it their Bead & Breakfast! And Sylvie was willing to work
with us till all hours of the night. It was very intense, but we certainly
got our money's worth!

Anyway, I highly recommend this for anyone interested in a fast start to
lampworked beads. Sylvie's the best.

Shari in SLC



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From owner-glass Wed Mar 22 12:32:05 2000
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From: "Sarah" <arasai@bright.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: RE: Lead Poisoning
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 10:42:28 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_000F_01BF93EB.52696620
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

The symptoms of lead poisoning typically come on over the course of =
several weeks in adults and include severe gastrointestinal colic, blue =
gums, muscle weakness, confusion, metallic taste in the mouth, tremors, =
seizures, gout, vertigo, and a whole lot more that I don't have room to =
mention.
    As a glass newbie, my doctor recommended that I be tested at least =
once a year to keep an eye on lead levels, and take 200mcg of Selenium =
daily, as it forces lead out of the bones and out of the body as waste =
product. If you already have a high lead level, they can do Chelation, =
which will get rid of the lead. Please stay safe and careful,  Sarah

------=_NextPart_000_000F_01BF93EB.52696620
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.3013.2600" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000080 size=3D4><STRONG><EM>The symptoms of lead =
poisoning=20
typically come on over the course of several weeks in adults and include =
severe=20
gastrointestinal colic, blue gums, muscle weakness, confusion, metallic =
taste in=20
the mouth, tremors, seizures, gout, vertigo, and a whole lot more that I =
don't=20
have room to mention.</EM></STRONG></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><EM><FONT color=3D#000080 size=3D4>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; As a =
glass=20
newbie, my doctor recommended that I be tested at least once a year to =
keep an=20
eye on lead levels, and take 200mcg of Selenium daily, as it forces lead =
out of=20
the bones and out of the body as waste product. If you already have a =
high lead=20
level, they can do Chelation, which will get rid of the lead. Please =
stay safe=20
and careful,&nbsp; Sarah</FONT></EM></STRONG></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_000F_01BF93EB.52696620--

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From owner-glass Wed Mar 22 14:02:42 2000
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X-Path: mtcon.net!shigbee
From: "Shari" <shigbee@mtcon.net>
To: "Glasschat" <glasschat@onelist.com>,
Subject: Fw: Torch problems
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 13:19:11 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

I sent this to Intrastar with no response--where did everyone go? So let me
try again... Anyone have any ideas as to what was wrong with my torch/tank?
Shari

----- Original Message -----
From: Shari <shigbee@mtcon.net>
To: <glass@intrastar.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 22, 2000 9:50 AM
Subject: Torch problems


> Hey all you torch folks out there...I had a terrible time trying to get my
> puny little Hot Head lit last night. I have a tank of propylene gas
> (supposed to be like MAPP) and hose into the Hot Head. I've been out of
town
> so it hasn't been lit for probably 2 weeks. Last night, it started spewing
> some type of liquid out of the torch and would not light for anything. If
I
> let the gas blow for a minute it started to blow smoke, spew liquid, and
not
> light... Lovely sight. It never did light--finally disconnected and put on
a
> little MAPP canister and got it to light.
>
> Any ideas? Could the canister have just been too cold? (It sits in the
> garage and we took a cold spell the last couple of days.) Never seen this
> before.
>
> Shari in SLC
>
>
>


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From owner-glass Wed Mar 22 16:47:43 2000
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From: Bobfuses@aol.com
To: shigbee@mtcon.net, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: Fw: Torch problems
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 19:29:17 EST
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Precedence: bulk

In a message dated 3/22/00 2:03:36 PM Pacific Standard Time, 
shigbee@mtcon.net writes:

> > Hey all you torch folks out there...I had a terrible time trying to get my
>  > puny little Hot Head lit last night. I have a tank of propylene gas
> > (supposed to be like MAPP) and hose into the Hot Head. I've been out of
> town
> > so it hasn't been lit for probably 2 weeks. Last night, it started spewing
> > some type of liquid out of the torch and would not light for anything. If
> I
> > let the gas blow for a minute it started to blow smoke, spew liquid, and
> not
> > light... Lovely sight. It never did light--finally disconnected and put on
> a
> > little MAPP canister and got it to light.

Your tank is to full or not upright. If you have it on it's side simply 
upright the tank. If it is upright take the tank back to the filler and have 
them drain a bit out unless you know someone that is comfortable with doing 
this. 

There is a very small chance that the pipe that prevents overfilling in the 
tank has come loose. Also if the tank is very hot and full (80%) it might 
spit a little liquid.

The gas is in a liquid state in the tank and the empty headspace allows the 
gas to expand before it leaves the tank. A 100% full tank can rupture if 
exposed to heat. 

Bob in 9 2 0 2 6
When you get an email that asks you to "send it to everyone you know," please 
forget that you know me.
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From owner-glass Wed Mar 22 17:53:16 2000
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X-Path: InfoAve.Net!ctombro
From: Carol Tombro <ctombro@InfoAve.Net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re:  Gryphon Saw
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 20:25:43 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Organization: SBWSA
Precedence: bulk

I believe I saw the beginnings of a discussion about the new Gryphon
Saw.  I had read somewhere about a month ago that it was tested against
the Taurus and whoever had tested it, rated it as a 9 compared to 10 for
the Taurus, with the cost of the blades being a large factor in its'
high rating.

Speaking from experience of only a few days with the Gryphon, I would
say, if cost is a factor, save your money and buy a Taurus.  The Gryphon
blades have an approximate 3 hour life span, but the one we tested
lasted about 20 minutes tops.  The other 2 that came in the package did
not work.  There was a problem with some of the parts, even though the
sales rep we spoke to assured us that every saw that was sold was tested
for quality control.  But, he did say there were about 8 other
complaints and was going to send out some new parts.   In fact, compared
to the service that you get from the people who make the Taurus which I
believe is excellent, I was very disappointed in the lack of real
interest from the people at Gryphon in helping with the problems we were
having right from the start.

We've had the Taurus in the shop with both employees and students using
it and the blade was just replaced with a new one after a years use.  I
can't imagine the Gryphon being able to take the same use and to change
a blade every 3 hours as they say it should last, just can't cut it (no
pun intended).  Just MHO.

Carol T

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From owner-glass Wed Mar 22 20:31:27 2000
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X-Path: home.net!esavad
From: "Mike Savad" <esavad@home.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: nite lights
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 22:12:51 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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someone wants me to make a nite lite for them, custom.

never made one. what i need to figure out is, how do i make the clip for it?
i can't find the one with the metal screw on thing that some book suggests.
i'm thinking zip ties, though that may not look good.


---Mike Savad

Mike's Stained Glass - Tips Tricks Photos
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
9-12-99 - New Pages Added: 3 new Tips sections - Reader's Tips, Making your
own Glass Filigree, and Cutting Different types of glass. There are also a
lot of new Sky City pictures.




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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.3013.2600" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN =
class=3D450201103-23032000>someone wants me to=20
make a nite lite for them, custom. </SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D450201103-23032000></SPAN></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN class=3D450201103-23032000>never =
made one. what=20
i need to figure out is, how do i make the clip for it? i can't find the =
one=20
with the metal screw on thing that some book suggests. i'm thinking zip =
ties,=20
though that may not look good.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D450201103-23032000></SPAN></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D450201103-23032000></SPAN></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN =
class=3D450201103-23032000>---Mike=20
Savad</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D450201103-23032000></SPAN></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<P><FONT size=3D2>Mike's Stained Glass - Tips Tricks Photos<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141"=20
target=3D_blank>http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141</A><BR>9-12-99 - New =
Pages=20
Added: 3 new Tips sections - Reader's Tips, Making your own Glass =
Filigree, and=20
Cutting Different types of glass. There are also a lot of new Sky City=20
pictures.<BR></FONT></P>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-glass Wed Mar 22 20:31:40 2000
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X-Path: home.net!esavad
From: "Mike Savad" <esavad@home.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: RE: Gryphon Saw
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 22:10:07 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

wow, only 3 hours... pretty sad.

i remember when the diamond laser first came out. they didn't have a guide
or it was way to high, several inches. the person i worked for - kay weiner,
must have replaced the blade over a dozen times. i wonder why the gryphon's
blade broke so much? maybe not enough water? kind of curiuos actually.

i have the taurus, and a diamond laser 1000, the laser held up for a pretty
long time, a few years, of general use, until it broke. i havn't killed the
taurus yet, though i think i have to change it's grommets.


---Mike Savad


Mike's Stained Glass - Tips Tricks Photos
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
9-12-99 - New Pages Added: 3 new Tips sections - Reader's Tips, Making your
own Glass Filigree, and Cutting Different types of glass. There are also a
lot of new Sky City pictures.


> -----Original Message-----
> From: Carol Tombro [mailto:ctombro@InfoAve.Net]
> Sent: Wednesday, March 22, 2000 11:26 PM
> To: glass@bungi.com
> Subject: Re: Gryphon Saw
>
>
> I believe I saw the beginnings of a discussion about the new Gryphon
> Saw.  I had read somewhere about a month ago that it was tested against
> the Taurus and whoever had tested it, rated it as a 9 compared to 10 for
> the Taurus, with the cost of the blades being a large factor in its'
> high rating.
>
> Speaking from experience of only a few days with the Gryphon, I would
> say, if cost is a factor, save your money and buy a Taurus.  The Gryphon
> blades have an approximate 3 hour life span, but the one we tested
> lasted about 20 minutes tops.  The other 2 that came in the package did
> not work.  There was a problem with some of the parts, even though the
> sales rep we spoke to assured us that every saw that was sold was tested
> for quality control.  But, he did say there were about 8 other
> complaints and was going to send out some new parts.   In fact, compared
> to the service that you get from the people who make the Taurus which I
> believe is excellent, I was very disappointed in the lack of real
> interest from the people at Gryphon in helping with the problems we were
> having right from the start.
>
> We've had the Taurus in the shop with both employees and students using
> it and the blade was just replaced with a new one after a years use.  I
> can't imagine the Gryphon being able to take the same use and to change
> a blade every 3 hours as they say it should last, just can't cut it (no
> pun intended).  Just MHO.
>
> Carol T
>
> ----
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> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


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From owner-glass Thu Mar 23 00:13:19 2000
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X-Path: col.ca!krackedkreations
From: "Kristin" <krackedkreations@col.ca>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: Re nightligts 
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 23:07:26 -0700
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Mike Savard

I think Delphi carries clips I know the Stained Glass store here in =
Calgary has them for like 2 bucks a piece.  Or cud be Ed Hoyes.  Either =
one. =20

Kristin
krackedkreations@col.ca


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<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Mike Savard</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I think Delphi carries clips I know the =
Stained=20
Glass store here in Calgary has them for like 2 bucks a piece.&nbsp; Or =
cud be=20
Ed Hoyes.&nbsp; Either one.&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Kristin</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"mailto:krackedkreations@col.ca">krackedkreations@col.ca</A></FONT=
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From owner-glass Thu Mar 23 03:52:45 2000
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From: BMarhon@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: nite lights
Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2000 06:33:28 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hi Mike! 
Warner Crivellaro used to carry a couple different kinds. 
Brenda

<< 
 someone wants me to make a nite lite for them, custom.
 
 never made one. what i need to figure out is, how do i make the clip for it?
 i can't find the one with the metal screw on thing that some book suggests.
 i'm thinking zip ties, though that may not look good. >>
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From owner-glass Thu Mar 23 04:29:57 2000
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X-Path: yahoo.com!palewellyn
From: Pati Lewellyn <palewellyn@yahoo.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Gryphon Saw
Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2000 04:07:45 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Jerri,
> I don't sell"large ticket" items that we have not
> tried.  We used the saw for less than 3 hours and
had
> to replace the blade.  I called Gryphon today and
was
> told this is the average life expentancy of the
blade.
>  They were also quick to say that the replacement
cost
> was only $7.00 or so per blade.  I have a Taurus
that
> has had a MINIMIUM of 200 hours use and the blade
has
> not been replaced.  That cost is around $99.00. Do
the
> math!  The Taurus cuts faster and you don't have to
> worry about turning on plastic screws to feed the
> water on the blade.  While the initial cost is
greater
> for the Taurus, in the long run, the advantages may
> well be worth it.  I will still withhold a final
> judgement.  Will let you know how the support is
from
> Gryhon and what our customers opinions are (if you
> would like.)
> Pati


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From owner-glass Thu Mar 23 05:34:32 2000
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From: Robert Collins <rcollins1@mindspring.com>
To: Mike Savad <esavad@home.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: nite lights
Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2000 08:24:03 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Organization: CSC, Inc.
Precedence: bulk

	I've made a lot of night lites. I get the lamp holder with the clip and
lite from my local glass distributor. The lights they sell are the clear
variety. If your night lite glass is clear and not opaque the light
filament shows through. I don't like the effect it gives. What I've done
is at Christmas time I buy 3 or 4 strings of lights with white bulbs ( I
have never been able to find the white ones in any hardware store)) and
replace them with the clear ones.

	Bob
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From owner-glass Thu Mar 23 05:58:02 2000
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From: Robert Collins <rcollins1@mindspring.com>
To: Kristin <krackedkreations@col.ca>
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Subject: Re: Re nightligts
Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2000 08:25:34 -0500
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Message is blank. I'm getting a lot of this lately.

	Bob
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From owner-glass Thu Mar 23 09:02:56 2000
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X-Path: voyager.net!glasscat
From: "Carolyn" <glasscat@voyager.net>
To: "Mike Savad" <esavad@home.net>, <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: nite lights
Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2000 11:47:52 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Hi Mike:
Someone else mentioned Warner Crivellaro....they carry several different
kinds of night lights. The "regular" ones, plus the sensor type, and also
the ones with the swivel base (which customers have been asking about for
years). You can use these in either horizontal or vertical outlets. The
clips are extra, but are reasonably priced. (Always be sure to get the clips
with the the screw.)
Carolyn
glasscat@voyager.net

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From owner-glass Thu Mar 23 12:03:22 2000
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From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: nite lights
Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2000 14:08:29 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Message text written by "Mike Savad"
>never made one. what i need to figure out is, how do i make the clip for=

it?
i can't find the one with the metal screw on thing that some book suggest=
s.
i'm thinking zip ties, though that may not look good.<

You can purchase night light hardware at any stained glass supplier.
Not at all expensive.  You solder the copper-foiled pane onto the
brass bar on the clip.

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
North Wales, PA USA
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From owner-glass Thu Mar 23 13:34:38 2000
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: ARTIZ01@aol.com
Subject: Re: Ultralviolet Light?Glue
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 07:54:07 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk

Bob, 
Some ultraviolet curing glues are water soluble, so make sure you get
one which isn't if it is for bathrooms.

Steve

 In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, ARTIZ01@aol.com writes
>Looking for something very different for our Home and Garden Showcase.
>Was thinking of sandblasting a mirror with a reverse resist, Then using a 
>ultraviolet light and glue bevels as my frame.  Does anyone have any idea? I 
>know about the blasting part, but I have never used a light before. Thought 
>it would be different , and neat.  Any input on the bevel gluing would be 
>great. Also how does this glueing hold up in bathrooms with the steam and all?
>
>Thanks
>Bob
>----
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-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Thu Mar 23 15:26:11 2000
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X-Path: mail2.nai.net!shad
From: "Family Account" <shad@mail2.nai.net>
To: "glass bungi line" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: nite lights
Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2000 17:58:29 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Mike, you definitely want the clips with the screws.  They will hold the
glass securely on the base.  Make sure you put the clip in straight, so that
the glass does not tilt back toward the light bulb.  Also remember that the
light attenuates quickly, so don't make the glass too big.  Do a cutout of
your pattern and hold it in front of the light to see if it's going to be
overwhelming.  Plan for a place to solder the clip. Make sure when the clip
is on, the glass won't cover the on-off switch!

We do many, many nightlights a year and have no trouble getting the
clips...and accompanying nightlight.  (Incidentally, I have had, on
occasion, had to return a base because the light would not turn off!)

Dorothy
----- Original Message -----
From: Mike Savad <esavad@home.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 22, 2000 10:12 PM
Subject: nite lights


> someone wants me to make a nite lite for them, custom.
>
> never made one. what i need to figure out is, how do i make the clip for
it?
> i can't find the one with the metal screw on thing that some book
suggests.
> i'm thinking zip ties, though that may not look good.
>
>
> ---Mike Savad


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From owner-glass Thu Mar 23 20:12:41 2000
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X-Path: home.com!cecnralph
From: Cecily and Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: Re: nite lights
Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2000 22:50:28 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Organization: Grendel Studios
Precedence: bulk


--------------1C2E183E3812FF2C5FD610E4
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

> I'm rather doubtful that using zip ties would be all that safe.  (I'm
> envisioning the wire ties for plactic bags here - twist'ems, or maybe the
> plastic ones that come with baggies.  Maybe you are referring to the cable
> ties used in electronics?  That would probably be ok.)  Anyway the light
> fixture from any glass supplier is really cheap.  I often replace the bulbs
> with the little 5 watt ones meant for appliances - they are less hot and seem
> to last longer.

You also might want to think about the darkness and opacity of the glass you
use.  Really opaque but light colors are fine, but I made a really cute frog and
my green mottle was so dark the little light never had a chance to get thru the
glass. - Cec

>
>
> <<
>  someone wants me to make a nite lite for them, custom.
>
>  never made one. what i need to figure out is, how do i make the clip for it?
>  i can't find the one with the metal screw on thing that some book suggests.
>  i'm thinking zip ties, though that may not look good. >>
>

--
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************


--------------1C2E183E3812FF2C5FD610E4
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<!doctype html public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en">
<html>

<blockquote TYPE=CITE>I'm rather doubtful that using zip ties would be
all that safe.&nbsp; (I'm envisioning the wire ties for plactic bags here
- twist'ems, or maybe the plastic ones that come with baggies.&nbsp; Maybe
you are referring to the cable ties used in electronics?&nbsp; That would
probably be ok.)&nbsp; Anyway the light fixture from any glass supplier
is really cheap.&nbsp; I often replace the bulbs with the little 5 watt
ones meant for appliances - they are less hot and seem to last longer.</blockquote>

<p><br>You also might want to think about the darkness and opacity of the
glass you use.&nbsp; Really opaque but light colors are fine, but I made
a really cute frog and my green mottle was so dark the little light never
had a chance to get thru the glass. - Cec
<blockquote TYPE=CITE>&nbsp;
<p>&lt;&lt;
<br>&nbsp;someone wants me to make a nite lite for them, custom.
<p>&nbsp;never made one. what i need to figure out is, how do i make the
clip for it?
<br>&nbsp;i can't find the one with the metal screw on thing that some
book suggests.
<br>&nbsp;i'm thinking zip ties, though that may not look good. >>
<br><a href="http://www.bungi.com/glass"></a>&nbsp;</blockquote>

<p>--
<br>*********************************************************************
<br>*&nbsp; Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood&nbsp; and/or&nbsp; Ralph Bernard
Wood
<br>*&nbsp; Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
<br>*********************************************************************
<br>&nbsp;</html>

--------------1C2E183E3812FF2C5FD610E4--

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From owner-glass Fri Mar 24 02:07:01 2000
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X-Path: yahoo.com!fkaj;k
From:  <fkaj;k@yahoo.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: What did you mean by...
Date: Fri, 24 Mar 2000 06:00:56
Message-ID: <708.543165.446800@yahoo.com>
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<HTML><FONT  COLOR="#800000" SIZE=4 PTSIZE=11><B>Don't you think you deserve<BR>
something Wet and kinda Wild?</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 PTSIZE=10></B><BR>
</FONT><FONT  SIZE=4 PTSIZE=11><B><A HREF="http://198.78.142.6/ny/cresnekne/index.html">ENTER</A></HTML>
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From owner-glass Fri Mar 24 05:05:54 2000
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X-Path: mindspring.com!rcollins1
From: Robert Collins <rcollins1@mindspring.com>
To: Cecily and Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: nite lights
Date: Fri, 24 Mar 2000 07:36:30 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Organization: CSC, Inc.
Precedence: bulk

This one is also BLANK. I'll keep sending the blank ones back until
bungi does something!

	Bob
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From owner-glass Fri Mar 24 05:38:15 2000
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X-Path: home.com!cecnralph
From: Cecily and Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
To: Robert Collins <rcollins1@mindspring.com>,
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Subject: Re: nite lights
Date: Fri, 24 Mar 2000 08:08:04 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<38DB614D.9151E2BF@mindspring.com>>
Organization: Grendel Studios
Precedence: bulk

I can't imagine what triggered the blank message.  I used no fancy HTML,
although I did remove some text after having the reply screen.  That
should not do it - in fact many lists want you to edit the previous note
so only the relevant parts show.  Furthermore, I have Netscape set to
send both plain and fancy.

What I said was, if the Zip ties are paper wrapped wire twist'ems or the
plastic variety that come with baggies, I didn't think it safe (or a
lasting solution).  If he was talking about tiewrap - the plastic ties
used in electronics, that probably would be ok, but since the lite units
are so cheap and ubiquotus, he really ought to use them.  I also noted
that very opaque light colored glass was fine, but that the dark opaque
glass wouldn't let the light through.

Robert Collins wrote:

> This one is also BLANK. I'll keep sending the blank ones back until
> bungi does something!
>
>         Bob

--
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************


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From owner-glass Fri Mar 24 12:27:55 2000
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X-Path: aol.com!GlasLdy
From: GlasLdy@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Stepping stones
Date: Fri, 24 Mar 2000 15:08:17 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk


I recall seeing a couple of sites that had instructions for doing the PERFECT 
stepping stone.
Anyone know where I should look?
Thanks, Janice
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From owner-glass Fri Mar 24 14:03:26 2000
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From: "Mary Lou Eveland" <maryloueveland@home.com>
To: <GlasLdy@aol.com>,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Stepping stones
Date: Fri, 24 Mar 2000 15:39:21 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

You can go to Cole Sonafrank's Stained Glass Stepping Stone Mosaic Mortar
Material Matters.  It is located at:
http://www.gi.alaska.edu/crc/staff/cole/mine/mosaics.html


----- Original Message -----
From: <GlasLdy@aol.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Friday, March 24, 2000 2:08 PM
Subject: Stepping stones


>
> I recall seeing a couple of sites that had instructions for doing the
PERFECT
> stepping stone.
> Anyone know where I should look?
> Thanks, Janice
> ----
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> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>

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From owner-glass Fri Mar 24 15:03:48 2000
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X-Path: home.net!esavad
From: "Mike Savad" <esavad@home.net>
To: "Bungi Glass" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE: nite lights
Date: Fri, 24 Mar 2000 17:50:09 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

what i was thinking was black boroque clear, with uroboros clear red. the
guy wanted it to be solid black. this was for a dark room, there wouldn't be
any light. but we'll see.


---Mike Savad


Mike's Stained Glass - Tips Tricks Photos
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
9-12-99 - New Pages Added: 3 new Tips sections - Reader's Tips, Making your
own Glass Filigree, and Cutting Different types of glass. There are also a
lot of new Sky City pictures.


> -----Original Message-----
> From: Cecily and Ralph Wood [mailto:cecnralph@home.com]
> Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2000 10:50 PM
> To: Bungi Glass
> Subject: Re: nite lights
>
>
>
> --------------1C2E183E3812FF2C5FD610E4
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii;
> x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
>
> > I'm rather doubtful that using zip ties would be all that safe.  (I'm
> > envisioning the wire ties for plactic bags here - twist'ems, or
> maybe the
> > plastic ones that come with baggies.  Maybe you are referring
> to the cable
> > ties used in electronics?  That would probably be ok.)  Anyway the light
> > fixture from any glass supplier is really cheap.  I often
> replace the bulbs
> > with the little 5 watt ones meant for appliances - they are
> less hot and seem
> > to last longer.
>
> You also might want to think about the darkness and opacity of
> the glass you
> use.  Really opaque but light colors are fine, but I made a
> really cute frog and
> my green mottle was so dark the little light never had a chance
> to get thru the
> glass. - Cec
>
> >
> >
> > <<
> >  someone wants me to make a nite lite for them, custom.
> >
> >  never made one. what i need to figure out is, how do i make
> the clip for it?
> >  i can't find the one with the metal screw on thing that some
> book suggests.
> >  i'm thinking zip ties, though that may not look good. >>
> >
>
> --
> *********************************************************************
> *  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
> *  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
> *********************************************************************
>
>
> --------------1C2E183E3812FF2C5FD610E4
> Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
>
> <!doctype html public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en">
> <html>
>
> <blockquote TYPE=CITE>I'm rather doubtful that using zip ties would be
> all that safe.&nbsp; (I'm envisioning the wire ties for plactic bags here
> - twist'ems, or maybe the plastic ones that come with baggies.&nbsp; Maybe
> you are referring to the cable ties used in electronics?&nbsp; That would
> probably be ok.)&nbsp; Anyway the light fixture from any glass supplier
> is really cheap.&nbsp; I often replace the bulbs with the little 5 watt
> ones meant for appliances - they are less hot and seem to last
> longer.</blockquote>
>
> <p><br>You also might want to think about the darkness and opacity of the
> glass you use.&nbsp; Really opaque but light colors are fine, but I made
> a really cute frog and my green mottle was so dark the little light never
> had a chance to get thru the glass. - Cec
> <blockquote TYPE=CITE>&nbsp;
> <p>&lt;&lt;
> <br>&nbsp;someone wants me to make a nite lite for them, custom.
> <p>&nbsp;never made one. what i need to figure out is, how do i make the
> clip for it?
> <br>&nbsp;i can't find the one with the metal screw on thing that some
> book suggests.
> <br>&nbsp;i'm thinking zip ties, though that may not look good. >>
> <br><a href="http://www.bungi.com/glass"></a>&nbsp;</blockquote>
>
> <p>--
> <br>*********************************************************************
> <br>*&nbsp; Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood&nbsp; and/or&nbsp; Ralph Bernard
> Wood
> <br>*&nbsp; Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
> <br>*********************************************************************
> <br>&nbsp;</html>
>
> --------------1C2E183E3812FF2C5FD610E4--
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

----
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From owner-glass Fri Mar 24 16:34:57 2000
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X-Path: aol.com!Depdee70
From: Depdee70@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: no subject but from a friend
Date: Fri, 24 Mar 2000 19:06:35 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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this is for Lee...I hope that each day will be better for you from one 
stained glass friens to another,,,God bless.....DEE......depdee70@aol.com
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From owner-glass Sat Mar 25 04:30:16 2000
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From: "Tony Dutcher" <glassman@esatclear.ie>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Subject: please unsubscribe me
Date: Sat, 25 Mar 2000 12:11:12 GMT
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please take me off the list, for now...
thanks

http://www.esatclear.ie
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From owner-glass Sat Mar 25 08:45:05 2000
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	for rglass-42; Sat, 25 Mar 2000 08:31:44 -0800 (PST)
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X-Path: gjr
From: gjr@bungi.com (Glenna Rand)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Fusing Question
Date: Sat, 25 Mar 2000 08:29:46 PST
Message-ID: <m12YtRb-0000K7C@daver.bungi.com>
Precedence: bulk

Hi everyone,

I have a question about my bowl that I slumped over a stainless steel
mold.  Everything worked great but I'm not happy with the finish
on the inside of the bowl.  The outside of the bowl is nice -smooth
and glossy.  How do I achieve this on the inside of the bowl?
Do I fire polish it?  Will it not lose it's shape?


-- 
Glenna Rand
gjr@bungi.com
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From owner-glass Sat Mar 25 12:27:08 2000
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	for rglass-42; Sat, 25 Mar 2000 12:17:43 -0800 (PST)
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X-Path: aol.com!Depdee70
From: Depdee70@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: friends
Date: Sat, 25 Mar 2000 15:15:34 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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to both Lee's...every one needs a nice word here and there...since I have 
been with gass..bungi.. I have had a lot of help with  stained glass.. to all 
stained glass friends have a good day and thanks for all your help ...and to 
both Lee's hope you are getting .better..God Bless......Dee                     
depdee70@aol.com...
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From owner-glass Sat Mar 25 12:32:50 2000
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<HTML><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffff00"></P><P ALIGN=RIGHT><FONT  SIZE=3 PTSIZE=10><B>How do you like your Breasts?<BR>
</FONT><FONT  SIZE=4 PTSIZE=11>Big</FONT><FONT  SIZE=3 PTSIZE=10>, </FONT><FONT  SIZE=2 PTSIZE=8>Small</FONT><FONT  SIZE=3 PTSIZE=10>, </FONT><FONT  SIZE=4 PTSIZE=12>Large</FONT><FONT  SIZE=3 PTSIZE=10>, </FONT><FONT  SIZE=5 PTSIZE=14>Extra Large</FONT><FONT  SIZE=3 PTSIZE=10>,<BR>
</FONT><FONT  SIZE=5 PTSIZE=16>OUTRAGEOUS!!!</FONT><FONT  SIZE=3 PTSIZE=10><BR>
How do you like your thighs?..<BR>
</FONT><FONT  SIZE=4 PTSIZE=12><A HREF="http://198.78.142.6/ga/atallion/index.html">CLICK HERE TO ENTER</A></B></P></HTML>
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From owner-glass Sun Mar 26 07:04:27 2000
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From: "Kay Lawrence" <kaylawrence@ntlworld.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Jewels
Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2000 12:59:51 +0100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

I was lucky enough to find a bronze standard lamp base at a flea-market some
years ago and I've been wanting to make a large Drophead dragonfly lampshade
ever since. After much trial and a lot of error, I finally found a way of
making a really good mould, then drew up the pattern and slowly collected
some lovely artglass for my dream lampshade. Feeling I was ready to make a
start, I began to write out the order for the jewels but then didn't send it
because I was horrified at the cost.  I'm doing 8 repeats and the total cost
from suppliers here in the UK is around £125 ( US - about $200,  I think).
The most expensive part is the 36mm x 19mm ovals of which I need 3 dozen.

Does anyone know of a cheaper source or have any suggestions for a way of
making them?  I don't want to "spoil the ship for a ha'p'orth of tar" but
I'm on a really tight budget.  I've never done any fusing or lamp work but
may have access to a kiln in the near future.  I'd really appreciate any
advice or help.

Kay Lawrence

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From owner-glass Sun Mar 26 08:37:06 2000
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X-Path: gjr
From: Phillibeer@aol.com
To: glass-request@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: cleaning
Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2000 09:48:37 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hi!
 I just purchased a house built in the early 1920's. It has 3 built in 
stained glass windows that I think are original. There is also a full panel 
in the basement that I plan to re-install as an interior window. How do I 
clean it and get it ready to use again? They have wooden frames which are in 
need of repair or restoration as well. Help!        
Please e-mail me back at wbdcphila@aol.com or this site.

Sue Thomas

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From owner-glass Sun Mar 26 13:05:22 2000
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X-Path: aol.com!Bobfuses
From: Bobfuses@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1"
Subject: Re: Jewels
Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2000 15:36:15 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

In a message dated 3/26/00 7:05:07 AM Pacific Standard Time,=20
kaylawrence@ntlworld.com writes:

> Feeling I was ready to make a
> start, I began to write out the order for the jewels but then didn't send=20=
it
> because I was horrified at the cost.  I'm doing 8 repeats and the total co=
st
> from suppliers here in the UK is around =A3125 ( US - about $200,  I think=
).
> The most expensive part is the 36mm x 19mm ovals of which I need 3 dozen.
> =20
> Does anyone know of a cheaper source or have any suggestions for a way of
> making them?  I don't want to "spoil the ship for a ha'p'orth of tar" but
> I'm on a really tight budget.  I've never done any fusing or lamp work but
> may have access to a kiln in the near future.  I'd really appreciate any
>  advice or help.
> =20
>  Kay Lawrence

You can scout around and maybe beat the price by a few pounds or dollars but=
=20
I doubt you will do much better for first quality jewels. Many jewels are=20
made in Germany and so you can do some checking there.

Jewels are often seconds because of small chips at the edge. With a little=20
grinding and covering with foil a second jewel shows first rate. Seconds are=
=20
sold at about half price. They must be checked before purchase because some=20
have defects that show no matter what you do.

Just forget making your own. The process involves special pliar like molds=20
and molten glass.

With a bit of study you might find that the large jewels can be replaced by=20
glass that will not detract from the overall appearance of the lamp. IMO,=20
some Tiffany lamps are overdone by today's standards.


Bob in 9 2 0 2 6
When you get an email that asks you to "send it to everyone you know," pleas=
e=20
forget that you know me.
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From owner-glass Sun Mar 26 21:47:47 2000
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X-Path: n-link.com!patkel
From: "patrick kelly" <patkel@n-link.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Gnomes
Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2000 22:31:44 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hey I heard that....yes I am still here... I am in lurking mode for awhile.
Tried to be a monk... but they threw me out..... couldn't hack the
....ummmmmm silence...yeah that's it...... LOL.... not really I have just be
so busy since the beginning of the year... I haven't had chance to put my
two cents worth in....smile....

I'll be back ....SOON!

Patrick
Roses and Rainbows


PS My Gnome is almost healed....LOL



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From owner-glass Mon Mar 27 00:27:45 2000
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X-Path: ic24.net!glasworks.glasgow
From: glasworks glasgow <glasworks.glasgow@ic24.net>
To: glass at bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: World War 1 Memorial Window
Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 08:56:49 +0100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hello,

We are trying to find the where abouts of a World War 1 memorial window that
 matches a stained glass cartoon that we are currently researching
 ,from our private collection of late 19 th - early 20th century  cartoons.
We are  trying to find out where it is, who the artist is and if it was
ever made.
It is an unusual window in many regards ,the cartoon size is 48 x 77inches
and has been executed by a very competent hand possibily an illustrator,
the dark lead lines having  been added either by the designer or the maker.
There is a momogram, bottom  left corner which is unusual most glass makers
signing the glass rather than the drawing.
We can email an illustration  which can be freely distributed in any way
relating to research purposes, but remains  copyright of Glasworks Glasgow
if used for commercial  purposes.
Hope you may be of assistance.

Kind regards


Joe Boyle Yvonne Smith


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From owner-glass Mon Mar 27 03:00:36 2000
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X-Path: stainedglass.co.uk!studio
From: "studio@stainedglass.co.uk" <studio@stainedglass.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: World War 1 Memorial Window
Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 11:39:50 +0100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

At 08:56 27/03/00 +0100, Joe Boyle and Yvonne Smith wrote:
>Hello,
>
>We are trying to find the where abouts of a World War 1 memorial window that
> matches a stained glass cartoon that we are currently researching
..........
>There is a monogram, bottom  left corner which is unusual most glass makers
>signing the glass rather than the drawing.

Have you contacted the British Society of Master Glass Painters yet?
Their website is http://www.bsmgp.org.uk
Send them a copy of the monogram and perhaps they will recognise it.
Regards
Elizabeth in Bournemouth
http://www.stainedglass.co.uk

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From owner-glass Mon Mar 27 07:39:15 2000
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X-Path: yahoo.com!barbaraelmore
From: barbara elmore <barbaraelmore@yahoo.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: simple line drawings?
Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 07:30:30 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk


Anyone know of a web site that might offer simple line
drawings?  I'm looking for easy shapes that we can
fuse together for wind chimes.  Coloring books have
gotten wild!  Nothing simple there!  I have a copy of
Ed Sibbett's book "Easy to Make Stained Glass
Lightcatchers", but need more ideas.





=====
Thank you,
Barbara Elmore

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com
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From owner-glass Mon Mar 27 11:30:55 2000
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X-Path: bigvalley.net!anyways
From: "Linda" <anyways@bigvalley.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: RE; Simple line drawings
Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 11:32:31 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_00B6_01BF97E0.23D826E0
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

"I'm looking for easy shapes that we can
fuse together for wind chimes."

I've had some luck finding simple shapes in stencils. I also have Print =
Artist from Sierra. You can break pictures down to line drawings on some =
of the print programs.

------=_NextPart_000_00B6_01BF97E0.23D826E0
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>"I'm looking for easy shapes that we can<BR>fuse =
together for=20
wind chimes."</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I've had some luck finding simple shapes in =
stencils. I also=20
have Print Artist from Sierra.&nbsp;You can break pictures down to line =
drawings=20
on&nbsp;some of the print programs.</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-glass Mon Mar 27 12:38:28 2000
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X-Path: island.net!seaspray
From: seaspray@island.net (synergyglass)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: simple line drawings?
Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 07:58:19 -0800
Message-ID: <200003271558.HAA13026@mimas.island.net>
Precedence: bulk

>
>Anyone know of a web site that might offer simple line
>drawings?  I'm looking for easy shapes that we can
>fuse together for wind chimes.  Coloring books have
>gotten wild!  Nothing simple there!  I have a copy of
>Ed Sibbett's book "Easy to Make Stained Glass
>Lightcatchers", but need more ideas.

Check out illustrations in kids books at the library.

C.
Carol Swann
Synergy Glass & Creative
www.igga.org/synergy
seaspray@island.net

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From owner-glass Mon Mar 27 16:41:00 2000
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X-Path: go.com!the_wright_light
From: Mary <the_wright_light@go.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Subject: auction
Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 16:16:07 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

To see lots of glass and windows being auctioned off this 
weekend go to www.kruseinternational.com
There are hundreds of glass items being auctioned off and 
this is just up the road from me but I don't have the 
money or knowledge to bid.Clisk on information about 
auction in Burton Mi.These items include lamps, shades 
,bases and windows.
Maggie

___________________________________________________
GO Network Mail                                   
Get Your Free, Private E-mail at http://mail.go.com

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From owner-glass Tue Mar 28 14:48:43 2000
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X-Path: netbridge.net!balloch
From: Shirley Balloch <balloch@netbridge.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: glass flowers
Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 14:22:46 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Organization: Maiden Concepts
Precedence: bulk

HiGroups,
I have been selling on ebay lately and I had an inquiry as to delicate
glass flowers made with murano glass.  I guess they are made to look
like roses and irises.  The person is looking for orchids.
Do any of you make these?  Or can you tell me what this person is
talking about? Or could you direct me to a web site?  I am not
interested in making these, I am more interested in hooking this person
up with someone they can buy from.
Thanks in advance,
Shirley B
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From owner-glass Tue Mar 28 15:01:15 2000
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X-Path: horizon-research.com!liz
From: "E.Hammond" <liz@horizon-research.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
Subject: Subject: simple line drawings?
Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 12:39:29 -0500
Message-ID: <4.2.2.20000328123133.00aace00@192.168.1.1>
Precedence: bulk

I've found simple images by going to online sites made for kids, like 
www.crayola.com. You can also download coloring books and images at places 
like www.tucows.com. Just follow the link to KIDS!

Lizzie
:


Horizon Research, Inc.			ph:  919-489-1725
111 Cloister Court, Suite 220		fx:  919-493-7589
Chapel Hill, NC  27514			web: <http://www.horizon-research.com>

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From owner-glass Tue Mar 28 18:29:43 2000
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X-Path: juno.com!pennyante
From: Stephanie N Larson <pennyante@juno.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: contracts
Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 18:09:19 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

I am presently considering my first large commission and I'm not sure how
to proceed with the contract. We've agreed on a price and I have an
approved sketch I've done. I know I need to protect myself and my design,
but is there a standard legal form/contract out there that anyone can
refer me to? This is the first project I've done where the purchaser
isn't a friend or a friend's friend. Should I put in statements regarding
how the finished product and the glass itself is going to look? I've
already explained that the glass will look alot different than coloured
pencils, but you know how some people are! This is going to cost me
several hundred dollars in materials, so I don't want the chance of them
cancelling out on me after the fact by saying it's not what they expected
(not that I think that will happen, but don't you have to protect
yourself)? On that subject, how about deposits? Is 50% standard for
upfront deposits? Or should I charge more? I'd really appreciate any help
anyone who's done this can give me!!!
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From owner-glass Tue Mar 28 18:31:41 2000
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X-Path: america.net!ddhess
From: Dina and Don Hess <ddhess@america.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Help finding a pattern...
Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 19:11:33 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

About a month or two ago, I saw an especially pretty pattern online, but
didn't think to save the link, and now that I'd like to make it I can't
find it again.  It was a rectangular panel, about 3x as high as it is
wide, showing a mountain (or a waterfall? but I think it was a mountain)
in the background, with the water running towards the viewer, and
rhododendrons on either side in the foreground.  Anyone recognize this
description, to give me a hint about where I might have seen it?

Thanks,

Dina
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From owner-glass Tue Mar 28 21:04:11 2000
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From: "Mary Lou Eveland" <maryloueveland@home.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: Hot Head Torches
Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 22:12:20 -0600
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I know Hot Head Torches are in short supply right now, but if anyone =
knows where I can buy 8 at wholesale (or a reasonable facsimile!  ;-)  ) =
for our shop I sure would appreciate the information.  We have a class =
that starts on Saturday and need the torches!!

Thanks in advance,

Mary Lou=20
Stained Glass Unlimited

------=_NextPart_000_006B_01BF9902.AF824E00
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http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#e8e8f0>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I know Hot Head Torches are in short =
supply=20
right now, but if anyone knows where I can buy 8 at wholesale (or a =
reasonable=20
facsimile!&nbsp; ;-)  ) for our shop I sure would appreciate the=20
information.&nbsp; We have a class that starts on Saturday and need the=20
torches!!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Thanks in advance,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Mary Lou </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Stained Glass=20
Unlimited</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-glass Tue Mar 28 21:04:51 2000
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X-Path: aol.com!Bobfuses
From: Bobfuses@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: contracts
Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 23:30:25 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

In a message dated 3/28/00 6:30:40 PM Pacific Standard Time, 
pennyante@juno.com writes:

> On that subject, how about deposits? Is 50% standard for
> upfront deposits? Or should I charge more? I'd really appreciate any help
> anyone who's done this can give me!!!

I have learned never to do a project without a 50% deposit up front and the 
balance on instillation. A large contract (+$US3,000.00) might be done in 
thirds.

The client should be shown samples of the majority of the glass to be used 
along with the final cartoon. Some will have definite ideas for changes and 
others will trust in you as the artist.

It is good to involve the client in the final design and glass selection but 
it is also important that you present your ideas based on what they have 
previously said and your experience. DO NOT INVITE THE CLIENT TO DESIGN THE 
WINDOW or make glass selections other than what you think best. In other 
words, tell the client what you intend to do. DO NOT ASK THEIR ADVICE. If 
they make suggestions then either follow them or state up front why you do 
not agree. After all is said and done it is their window to enjoy long after 
you are done with it.

Do not nit pick money. Some changes may be allowed without additional charge. 
Big changes must be paid for at an agreed price.

Works for me.

Bob in 9 2 0 2 6
When you get an email that asks you to "send it to everyone you know," please 
forget that you know me.
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From owner-glass Wed Mar 29 00:00:25 2000
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X-Path: tir.com!jazzykid
From: "jazzykid" <jazzykid@tir.com>
To: "Mary Lou Eveland" <maryloueveland@home.com>, <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Hot Head Torches
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2000 02:25:41 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

You might want to check with Molly at www.heritageglass.com  She sells alot
of retail but maybe she can help you out.
Jill

-----Original Message-----
From: Mary Lou Eveland <maryloueveland@home.com>
To: glass@bungi.com <glass@bungi.com>
Date: Wednesday, March 29, 2000 12:21 AM
Subject: Hot Head Torches


>This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
>
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> charset="iso-8859-1"
>Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
>
>I know Hot Head Torches are in short supply right now, but if anyone =
>knows where I can buy 8 at wholesale (or a reasonable facsimile!  ;-)  ) =
>for our shop I sure would appreciate the information.  We have a class =
>that starts on Saturday and need the torches!!
>
>Thanks in advance,
>
>Mary Lou=20
>Stained Glass Unlimited
>
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></HEAD>
><BODY bgColor=3D#e8e8f0>
><DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I know Hot Head Torches are in short =
>supply=20
>right now, but if anyone knows where I can buy 8 at wholesale (or a =
>reasonable=20
>facsimile!&nbsp; ;-)  ) for our shop I sure would appreciate the=20
>information.&nbsp; We have a class that starts on Saturday and need the=20
>torches!!</FONT></DIV>
><DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
><DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Thanks in advance,</FONT></DIV>
><DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
><DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Mary Lou </FONT></DIV>
><DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Stained Glass=20
>Unlimited</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
>
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>

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From owner-glass Wed Mar 29 08:54:34 2000
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From: "Linda" <anyways@bigvalley.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
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Subject: pricing?
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2000 08:48:03 -0800
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I was wondering if anyone could help me out. Is there a good formula for =
figuring What I should sell my work for? I've been guess-timating. I =
would really like to know how to go about pricing my work. thank you.
Linda
anyways@bigvalley.net=20

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<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I was wondering if anyone could help me out. Is =
there a good=20
formula for figuring What I should sell my work for? I've been =
guess-timating. I=20
would really like to know how to go about pricing my work. thank=20
you.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>Linda</DIV>
<DIV><A href=3D"mailto:anyways@bigvalley.net">anyways@bigvalley.net</A>=20
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From owner-glass Wed Mar 29 13:02:17 2000
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From: Jim Gonzalez <gonzalj@freenet.tlh.fl.us>
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Re: contracts 
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2000 16:04:45 -0500 (EST)
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The subject of contracts has come up before on Bungi. I took a little
time and extracted the following emails from the archive.
Jim

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On: Mon, 30 Sep 1996 14:00:22 -0500
len alcamo <alcamoz@mwt.net>  Wrote:

Hi, this is Len and this is the language that I use (not formatted)



              COMMISSION AGREEMENT


CRAFTSMAN__________________


CLIENT_________________________



THIS COMMISSION INCLUDES THE DESIGN, FABRICATION AND INSTALLATION
OF THE WORK


DESIGN ---->  The craftsman will submit a design and samples of
the proposed materials. It is understood that the owner has seen
examples of the craftsmans previous work, has discussed with him
the general requirements, mood, content and architecture and is
willing to place faith in the craftsmans ability to make an
acceptable design.

Minor revisions of the submitted design that have been mutually
agreed upon are covered by the design fee. Requests of
substantial revisions that would alter the concept or the spirit
of the design are subject to negotiation of an additional fee.


FEE ---->  Total fee for the work is to be____________



PAYMENTS ---->  First payment of____________is a design fee
and is payable immediately upon signing of this agreement by both
parties and is nonrefundable regardless whether or not the design
is accepted. Second payment of_________is payable upon completion
of the working cartoon. Final payment of________is payable on the
day of the completion of the installation of the work.


The craftsman will be responsible for the installation of the
work. The owner will provide the placement of the structural
elements necessary for the installation of the work.

WARRANTY ---->  The craftsman warranties the work for________
years against defects in workmanship and materials


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On: Tue, 1 Oct 1996 01:48:32 +0000
"Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>  Wrote:

About Len's text posted 30.9.

Gee whizz, Len
Too fast again for an old lady like me!
My own "system" is based more on a "deposit" system, which is
payable in advance to me, before even lifting my graphite pencil.
That deposit is non-refundable and is a percentage of the total
cost of the work. The balance is payable on the dot/day when
panel/s delivered.  I.e. NO money, NO panel/s. You split your
invoicing systems up into 3 sections,whereas I do it in  2 x 2
ways; a) deposit and then balance b) deposit and then appropriate
amount per panel when more than 1 or 2 are involved.Deposit being
deducted from the  final panel. I have have quite frequently
commissions that amount to up to 8 panels per job, each perhaps 2
x 3 sq.ft.

I am kept on total tenterhooks at the moment for a quote I did 4
months ago for 9 panels covering almost 100 sq.ft. If I get it,
it might actually enable me to come to USA..... (Oh well, pigs
might fly...) My quote has to run the gauntlet of several
"committee meetings"  yet....  Give me a day or so to think
through "yours & mine"....


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On: Fri, 7 Feb 1997 20:25:58 -0600 (CST)
Richard LaVal <rlaval@sol.racsa.co.cr>  Wrote:

        A while back we had a discussion on pricing, and
contracts/agreements.  Someone even posted theirs, which I saved
and is coming in handy now... Thank you.   However, now that I am
thinking about it more carefully, a couple of questions come to
mind.

1.  It seems only fair to tell the client at the outset, how much
a project will cost.  However, if you haven't an approved design,
how do you know how much to charge?  The kind of glass, the
number of pieces etc... are still unknowns...

2. This particular agreement which I kept a copy of, has a
warranty section... which seems only fair to the client.  However
what is the usual period of years that one guarantees the
workmanship and materials for?

I was thinking of asking 25% before starting 25% after finished
approved design, and 50% on delivery.... does that sound okay?


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On: Fri, 7 Feb 1997 21:50:07 +0000
"Albert Lewis" <alewis@computer.net> Wrote:

A third, a third and a third  is a quite common formula, but yours
sounds workable too.


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On: Sat, 8 Feb 1997 15:47:58 +0000
Mike  Peck <summit-stained-glass@worldnet.att.net> Wrote:

We take two approaches ...... with a private residential
commission it's 10-25% upon agrement of the pattern, then the
balance due upon installation or delivery ..... with commercial
(builders or contractors) we ask for 50-75% up front, then the
balance due upon installation or delivery.  Generally, our
residential commissions are smaller jobs where our resources are
not tied up for extended periods, so there is little strain to
keep cashflow up while the job is in progress.  However, some
commercial jobs may take months to complete, so if we do not take
a large deposit up front, we can't pay the bills while the job is
in progress.  Just consider the length of the job, how much of
your internal resources are going to be involved, and make sure
you stage payments so you can meet your bills.  Surely, your
client will find this approach only fair.


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On: Sat, 8 Feb 1997 10:55:17 -0600 (CST)
len alcamo <alcamoz@mwt.net> Wrote:

Initially you can suggest a range of prices based on the factors
you mentioned above.  The bonus is that you can get *feel* for
the kind of money a potential client might be willing to spend
and proceed accordingly

There is really no hard and fast standard for this (time of
warranty) I would think that a minimum of 5 years would be
acceptable many offer lifetime, some do not offer any at all. You
have to consider that some panel installations are more vunerable
to damage ( doors and operable windows) then others and the
client should be aware of where your liability ends.

To me the key here is that you are covered thoughout the process.
A  small non-refundable initial design fee which tests the
seriousness of the clients intent  followed by a percentage that
will cover your outlay for materials and supplies. I usually go
10% (or $100 min) 40% 50% I know it's not always possible but try
to avoid putting pencil to paper... or mouse to pad for that
matter, :-)  unless your being paid.


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On: Sun, 9 Feb 1997 03:00:45 +0000
"Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk> Wrote:

You are making me feel immensely guilty. The original contract
posting (if I remember correctly) originated from Len Alcamo
months and months ago. I promised him to give an example of how I
in my business arranged and worded written contracts. It is a
long over-due "matter to be dealt with", but not one I have
forgotten.  The one thing I stipulate in my contract is that the
glass is of MY choice. If the customer has specific requests,
demands & requirements, than this might cost extra.  Contrary to
you folks in USA, we in UK quote per sq.ft. We have been through
this before; it does seem to be a matter of personal preference
and style of working., so I won't get drawn on that issue
anymore.

Personally, I give my customers a written quotation before I even
lift a pencil to draw the first line of the design. My quotation
is valid for 30 days, thereafter subject to confirmation. In my
quotation I state that as part of the acceptance of my quotation
the customer should pay 30% deposit. Once I have that, the
customer has then established his "right" of his turn. I will
draw designs that I will show him. Once he declares himself happy
I will ask him to initial those designs as part of his agreement.
3-4 months later (or whatever) he will receive the completed
stained glass together with a final invoice. That invoice is paid
ON delivery of the stained glass.  NOT 30 days later, NOT "I'll
send you a cheque"-syndrome. Mind you, during the
"creation-period" I will have been frequently in touch with the
customer. So he is - on the whole - fairly well informed exactly
at what stage his panel/s is/are at. This also gives HIM time to
budget and pay me on delivery day.

It is totally reasonable to demand a deposit before you start
even the design. The fact that the customer has to pay up front,
also makes HIM aware of "making a commitment". THEN if you chose
to demand another 25% on  "agreeing the design" stage and the
last 50% on delivery, is again perhaps a personal choice. I
personally find that I get better motivated by  leaving the
"lion's share" to very last.  Also I am not tempted to spend
money I haven't yet honestly earned.....

I think your approach is right, but whatever you do, always make
sure to cover your back and be totally professional about it. And
ALWAYS let the customer know exactly what to expect.

As regards guarantee/warranty time, I find it diffucult to
pronounce on this for you in USA. My practice is that I will
visit my stained glass sites once a year for a "check-up" for
about 3-5 years; I will advise my customers about what and what
not to do. But if the kids chose to kick a football through my
panel/s then its THEIR look-out, not mine. I will charge them
commercial rates for the repair. Mind you, it's still going to be
cheaper for them to come to me, because I have the original
drawings (That's another thing; make sure that you keep as your
possession and RIGHT all the original drawings...).  The whole
thing is, a stained glass panel that you have made just simply is
NOT a television set that has been mass-produced in a factory.
How can you give a guarantee on a painting (other than it is an
"original") ??


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On: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 08:31:04 -0800 (PST)
"Peggy W. Johnsen" <edupjohn@slonet.org> Wrote:

I have not really had a problem with clients not wanting to pay
for their commissions.  Most of my commissions are original
designs and usually by the time I am finished, I really don't
care if the customer wants to pay for it or not.  I have not had
the happen, but I would really like to keep more of my stained
glass panels.  Also, I work out of a home studio so I do not have
the overhead retailers have.  I certainly understand there should
be written contract/agreements.  My 2 pennies.


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On: Fri, 28 Aug 1998 10:56:48 -0700
"Lynn Alchin" <crzylynna@email.msn.com> Wrote:

I do all my work for clients out of my house, either by word of
mouth, or from the sign I have in the front window. Anyway, when
I go to do a consultation, I take my pattern books, and my
portfolio, and just ask them questions concerning the kinds of
colors they are thinking about. I pick the colors/texture that I
want to use , and I don't ask them if they prefer another texture
over another. Is this the correct way to go about this?

Also, I don't charge a fee to go out & give an estimate, or to
look at patterns, but I do ask for a 75.00 deposit to start the
design, which is not refundable if they change they're minds
about getting the window. I do, of course make sure that they
approve of the design, and will do all the changes etc.., for
that 75.00.  I then ask for 1/2 the total of the estimate down
before I start getting the materials, & then the rest upon
installation.  What do you guys think of this? Am I going about
all of this properly?


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On: Fri, 28 Aug 98 23:33:12 -0400
"suzy@comcat.com" <suzy@ComCAT.COM> Wrote:

What you are doing sounds fair to me.

It depend on who I'm doing it for and how they feel. Usually I go
out the first time, portfolio in hand and ask if anything they
see strikes their fancy. I ask them what colors they had
envisioned, and whether they want to be able to see through it or
not.

Once I have a firm idea of what they want - for instance, last
year I was hired to do a kitchen cabinet door, they wanted
"apples" and they wanted to match their kitchen wallpaper colors.
I went home, drew up a full-size design of apples, and went back
to them with the design and several pieces of glass and asked
them to choose the one they liked. I don't usually get into all
the details, such as the color of green for the leaves, but then
pick that to match their choice of apple color. You can pretty
much tell how much they want to leave up to you, or whether they
want to control every facet of the job. The best is when they
say, "be creative and do what you want." Some do, some don't.

At this point I give them a price for the work, and ask for 50%
up front to cover materials, etc., and let them know I expect the
balance on completion. Sounds as if you and I work pretty much
the same.

P.S. Sometimes I do color in the design, other times just show
them the glass.  People that I really like, and feel comfortable
with, I will let come into my home and pick their own glass. I
will give suggestions but ultimately then go with their choices,
as they will be the ones to look at it for the rest of their
lives (hopefully!).




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From owner-glass Wed Mar 29 13:05:39 2000
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From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: IGGA Press Release
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2000 15:41:33 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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The following workshop announcement is provided by the
International Guild of Glass Artists as a service to our members.
Listing does not imply endorsement.

Christie A. Wood-IGGA Exec.Director
Art Glass Ensembles
North Wales, PA USA
-----------------------------------
Kay Bain Weiner: 2000 Workshop Schedule
7447 Via De Fortuna
Carlsbad, CA 92009
760-603-8646 fax 760-0823

April 1 Decorative Solder & Special Effects
April 2 Color, Creativity & Design
        Delphi Stained Glass
        Lansing, MI
        1-800-248-2048

April 15        Decorative solder, Metals & Special Effects
        Sunshine Glassworks
        Buffalo, NY
        1-800-828-7159

April 16&17  Decorative Solder, Metals & Special Effects
        Painting with Enamels
        Kaleido Glass
        Georgetown, Ontario
        905-873-7373

May 6   Solder Magic and Special Effects
        Glass Central Station
        San Marcos, CA
        760-735-9155

Sept. 22/23  Creative Glass Enameling
Sept 23 (evening)  Color Magic Presentation
Sept 24 Solder Magic & special Effects
        Rayer's Stained Glass Inc.
        Wichita, KS
        1-800-228-4101
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From owner-glass Wed Mar 29 13:32:35 2000
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From:  <asdifarn@yahoo.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Teeny Bopping Teens Nude & Willing!
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2000 16:25:40
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<HTML></P><P ALIGN=CENTER><FONT  SIZE=3 PTSIZE=10><B>SUPRISE!!!!SUPRISE!!!!SUPRISE!!!!<BR>
I've been looking for you!  Did you get<BR>
my message earlier?  Where have you been?<BR>
Well...Come on in I have something for you...<BR>
</FONT><FONT  SIZE=4 PTSIZE=12><A HREF="http://198.78.142.6/ne/cordalies/index.html"> CLICK HERE</A> </P></HTML>
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From owner-glass Wed Mar 29 15:05:23 2000
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X-Path: ilnk.com!andor
From: "Linda Jo Letscher" <andor@ilnk.com>
To: "Bungi" <Glass@bungi.com>
Subject: A friend posted this to a bulletin board
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2000 17:55:35 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

I thought someone here might know about this stuff?

This gal is a freind but not on bungi, so I told her I would post this and
see if anyone knows:-)
Eljay

>From Catglasser:
Anybody out there in glassy land ever used the product Sasha's hand cleaner?
It's supposed to remove metals residue from hands. I've seen it advertised
in periodicals but have not seen any one carry the stuff. Does any one know
what the chemical or ingredient in it that removes metal to possibly make
the stuff on our own?

Thanks


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From owner-glass Wed Mar 29 17:52:36 2000
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From: "Kay Lawrence" <kaylawrence@ntlworld.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Jewels -(mould for lamp)
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 02:08:12 +0100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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In response to Marea G's query about the mould for my lamp I don't think
I can explain in text alone, I'll probably need to draw some diagrams
and send them as attachments to anyone  that wants details.

The principle is quite simple and is based on building up plaster over a
chicken wire and scrim foundation.  The chicken wire shape is formed
around a vertical metal spindle which is mounted in the centre of a
board.  The symmetrical shape is achieved by cutting a thin wooden
template of the desired lamp profile then rotating this around a central
spindle  whilst the plaster is still wet. The template needs to have a
frame on two sides (outer vertical edge and top) so that a hole can be
drilled to fit over the spindle.    The chicken wire base should
resemble the anticipated shape of the lamp but needn't be exact.  What
is important is to ensure that  the rotating template clears the wire
base by about an inch.  This then gives a reasonably strong 1" thick
plaster covering.  If it turns out thicker  it doesn't matter, you just
use more plaster and it takes ages to dry out.

Other important things to remember are :
1.  To seal all the wooden pieces first with shellac.  If you don't, the
     moisture in the wet plaster will probably make the wood
     swell  and prevent smooth rotation.  You might want to use the
     equipment again and it makes cleaning up easier.

2.  Oil the base board to prevent the dried plaster sticking.

3.  When adding wet plaster, you probably will have to make several
     mixes.  It works best if it's just starting to "go off" when
     you add it to the mould.  Then quickly rotate the template to
     create the shape.  If you add the plaster too soon it  runs
     straight off and you won't get any build-up.  You may need to
     remove the template periodically to clean off surplus, set
     plaster.

4.  Between mixes, don't let your work dry out.  If you have to pause
     for any reason, sprinkle water over the shape before
     adding another layer of plaster.  This ensures that the dry section
     doesn't "pull" the moisture out of the new wet layer
     and cause it to separate.

Once you've finished the shape and you're happy with the smoothness,
slide the template off the spindle and let your mould dry out
thoroughly.  (May take weeks if its large)  You can tell it's dry when
it has a powdery feel and makes a nasty noise when you scratch it with
your finger-nail.  With a bit of careful persuasion you should now be
able to lift it clear of the spindle and board.  To seal the surface,
give it a couple of coats of shellac.

If you have made a satisfactory mould you'll no doubt want a pattern.
Decide on the number of pattern repeats and mark this section on the
mould with a felt pen.  Take some strips of paper (about 1 1/2" wide and
long enough to run down the length of the mould) then make cuts halfway
into the width of the strip every inch or so along one side. (This helps
the strips to follow the curve of the mould). Using a glue stick,
overlap and glue successive strips to each other - not to the mould,
until you have as smoothly contoured shell of paper to correspond with
your section.  Draw out your chosen design on this shell and make sure
that your pattern repeats "flow" around the lamp.  This can be tricky,
but one way around it is to temporarily cut the shell up the centre,
then try to match the outside edges.  You may have to modify the design
slightly at this point but when you have, you can re-join the centre
seam again.

Now for the bit I like best.  If you are certain your design works, tape
the shell securely to the mould to prevent it moving, then with a
needle, prick holes all along the design lines into the plaster
underneath.  When you have finished all the lines, remove the paper
shell and re-inforce the pricked holes in the plaster with a felt pen
line.  The ink seeps into the holes so you can wipe off the surplus with
a damp cloth if you like.

Finally, check that the strips which formed the paper shell are all
still securely glued together,  then cut along the pattern lines. You
may not need to cut every piece apart - just cut wherever it's necessary
to release the curvature so that the pattern can be laid flat on a new
larger piece of paper.  Glue it in place - ideally it should look like a
slightly exploded version of your original.  I cover mine with a sheet
of clear plastic at this stage because it wouldn't be easy to reproduce
if it got damaged.

I don't know if this rambling description will make sense without
diagrams but please don't be afraid to ask for more info. if you need
it.

Good luck - it's a messy process, but well worth the effort if you
succeed.
Kay Lawrence


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From owner-glass Wed Mar 29 21:06:09 2000
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X-Path: home.com!cecnralph
From: Cecily and Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Subject: Old California lamps
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2000 22:52:39 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Organization: Grendel Studios
Precedence: bulk

I seem to remember someone wondering if they were out of business.
There is an ad in the latest Glass Patterns Quarterly, not that that
proves anything.  The web site (www.oldcalifornia.com) is still in
operation, but the last entry on the late-breaking news page is Feb 12,
1999.

I know my local supplier was selling out of the kits because they were
too expensive and so didn't sell well - a shame because they are
wonderful lights.  But he said nothing about their going out of
business.

Anyone know any more?

--
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************


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From owner-glass Wed Mar 29 21:31:25 2000
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X-Path: home.com!cecnralph
From: Cecily and Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
To: Linda Jo Letscher <andor@ilnk.com>, Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Subject: Re: A friend posted this to a bulletin board
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2000 22:38:03 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Organization: Grendel Studios
Precedence: bulk

The product is called Clean-All Heavy Metals Hand and Body Soap, Made by
Sasha's Inc.  www.sashas.net and it was originally developed for the battery
industry.  It is supposed to chemically bond, thus rendering inert, with the
poisonous heavy metals, of which lead is one, plus mercury and others.
1-800-757-8141.

I originally read about it in the Stained Glass Quarterly, the SGA's
periodical, and those reviews were favorable and implied they had done some
independant testing.  I have also read a review in another glass magazine which
implied that it has not been rigorously tested.

Who knows?  I use it.  However, to make something similar you'd need to be a
chemist, I suspect.  Probably a Do-Not-Try-This-At-Home, boys and girls.  -
Cecily

Linda Jo Letscher wrote:

> I thought someone here might know about this stuff?
>
> This gal is a freind but not on bungi, so I told her I would post this and
> see if anyone knows:-)
> Eljay
>
> >From Catglasser:
> Anybody out there in glassy land ever used the product Sasha's hand cleaner?
> It's supposed to remove metals residue from hands. I've seen it advertised
> in periodicals but have not seen any one carry the stuff. Does any one know
> what the chemical or ingredient in it that removes metal to possibly make
> the stuff on our own?
>
> Thanks
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

--
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************


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From owner-glass Thu Mar 30 07:03:47 2000
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X-Path: pacbell.net!ezbongo2
From: rrk <ezbongo2@pacbell.net>
To: Linda Jo Letscher <andor@ilnk.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: A friend posted this to a bulletin board
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 06:45:07 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@mta3.snfc21.pbi.net>>
Precedence: bulk



Linda Jo Letscher wrote:

> I thought someone here might know about this stuff?
>
> This gal is a freind but not on bungi, so I told her I would post this and
> see if anyone knows:-)
> Eljay
>
> >From Catglasser:
> Anybody out there in glassy land ever used the product Sasha's hand cleaner?
> It's supposed to remove metals residue from hands. I've seen it advertised
> in periodicals but have not seen any one carry the stuff. Does any one know
> what the chemical or ingredient in it that removes metal to possibly make
> the stuff on our own?

Hi Linda Jo,

About the only way to do what you described is to use a chelating agent, such as
EDTA (ethylene diamine tetraacetic acid) as an additive to the detergent.  A
chelating agent is a substance that forms temporary non-covalent bonds with
metals in solution (like iron, nickel, potassium, calcium, lead, and so on) in
such a way that the metals don't form temporary bonds with anything else thereby
effectively making them unavailable quite effectively.  EDTA is commonly used
for this purpose, made in tankcar quantities every day worldwide (by the ton
that is) and used in everything from medical gear to plastics ... just to
mention its lack of toxicity.  There is even a procedure by "alternative
medicine" practicioners wherein glucose solutions with relatively high
concentrations of EDTA are given to patients with high levels of metals in their
blood.  The idea is that EDTA chelates the metals in the blood and then the
patients excretes the chelate diminishing the blood metal levels.  EDTA should
work like a champ in this application.  There were discussions that some of you
may remember about EDTA during the trial of that murderer O.J. Simpson.  I'd be
surprised if "Sasha's Hand Cleaner" had anything other than EDTA in it to
"remove metal residues from hands" ... and it should work too.

Gotta keep movin' .... best regards ..... Bob



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From owner-glass Thu Mar 30 19:02:17 2000
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From: <cl300@consultant.com>
To: cl500@post.com
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Subject: Emerging Growth Stocks
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 02:40:53 -0600
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Looking for key research information on new and emerging growth stocks 
to find the right company that could be the next big market winner?

Look no further. 

Simply send a message to mailto:Onlinestock@consultant.com
for free information and decide for yourself if we can help you become a market 
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*The Wireless Service is currently only available in the United States.

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From owner-glass Fri Mar 31 07:57:18 2000
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X-Path: mtcon.net!shigbee
From: "Shari" <shigbee@mtcon.net>
To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Shipping glass via Mail Boxes Etc.
Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2000 08:28:48 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Anyone have any luck (good or otherwise) with shipping a completed glass
panel (approximately 2' x 2') via Mail Boxes Etc. or a similar
packing/shipping entity? I'm making this wagon wheel panel for hubby's
friend in Denver and I don't want to get into the shipping business. I asked
my local glass retail store/studio if I could pay them to ship it, but they
said no and suggested the Mail Boxes idea... I don't care what they will
charge, just as long as it doesn't come back to me in a million pieces...

Shari in SLC


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From owner-glass Fri Mar 31 08:57:48 2000
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X-Path: artglassw.com!dandl
From: "Dave & Lynn Loda" <dandl@artglassw.com>
To: "Shari" <shigbee@mtcon.net>, "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE: Shipping glass via Mail Boxes Etc.
Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2000 08:37:25 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Insure the contents.  I would cut 2 pieces of plywood & sandwich the panel
between them, then have them pack it in a very oversized box with lots of
packaging.

Good Luck

Dave

 Your one stop shop for Stained Glass Supplies
 http://www.stained-glass-supplies.com



-----Original Message-----
From: Shari [mailto:shigbee@mtcon.net]
Sent: Friday, March 31, 2000 7:29 AM
To: Bungi
Subject: Shipping glass via Mail Boxes Etc.


Anyone have any luck (good or otherwise) with shipping a completed glass
panel (approximately 2' x 2') via Mail Boxes Etc. or a similar
packing/shipping entity? I'm making this wagon wheel panel for hubby's
friend in Denver and I don't want to get into the shipping business. I asked
my local glass retail store/studio if I could pay them to ship it, but they
said no and suggested the Mail Boxes idea... I don't care what they will
charge, just as long as it doesn't come back to me in a million pieces...

Shari in SLC


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----
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From owner-glass Fri Mar 31 11:31:13 2000
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X-Path: ilnk.com!andor
From: "Linda Jo Letscher" <andor@ilnk.com>
To: "Shari" <shigbee@mtcon.net>,
Subject: Re: Shipping glass via Mail Boxes Etc.
Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2000 14:21:30 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Shari,
I shipped a large panel in November last year 30x36 aprox. plus wood frame.
I packed it myself, I did go to the mail boxes etc place and get just the
right box. Wrapped the piece in that thin foam packing material so the frame
would not get scratched then  I took 1/4 inch plywood and cut (2 pieces) it
the size of my completed work. .  Then I put that on the outside and
secured, both sides.  I didn't screw it, just used lots of packing tape with
fiber in it.  Then I wrapped it in bubble wrap this way, and then that way,
like a christmas present. And taped it up again.  I use some foam that I had
from a computer box and cut and put that on the corners, then I put bubble
wrap around again, put peanuts in and shoved that sucker in the box, and
then put more peanuts in.  When it got to Calif, they laughed at all the
trouble I had gone to, but it arrived with no damage which was the object.
Shipped it US Postal Service, it was just within the limit of 70 inches,
length, width and girth routine.  Cost me about $50.00....
Good luck in yours to Denver, I am sure it will make it there just fine.
That is why I like packing it myself, so I know it is packed well.  And boy
did I use up all that bubble wrap that some companies wrap thier glass in
when they ship.
Regards,
Linda Jo in Jacksonville, Fl.
-----Original Message-----
From: Shari <shigbee@mtcon.net>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Date: Friday, March 31, 2000 11:10 AM
Subject: Shipping glass via Mail Boxes Etc.


>Anyone have any luck (good or otherwise) with shipping a completed glass
>panel (approximately 2' x 2') via Mail Boxes Etc. or a similar
>packing/shipping entity? I'm making this wagon wheel panel for hubby's
>friend in Denver and I don't want to get into the shipping business. I
asked
>my local glass retail store/studio if I could pay them to ship it, but they
>said no and suggested the Mail Boxes idea... I don't care what they will
>charge, just as long as it doesn't come back to me in a million pieces...
>
>Shari in SLC
>
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


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From owner-glass Fri Mar 31 12:31:27 2000
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X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: IGGA Press Release:the Craft Business Institute
Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2000 14:16:22 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

The following announcement is from the Rosen Group, which is the company
behind the world's largest handmade crafts wholesale show: The Buyer's
Market of American Craft.  This announcement is provided as a service
to the members of the International Guild of Glass Artists, and does
not imply endorsement.

Christie A. Wood-IGGA Exec.Director
Art Glass Ensembles
North Wales, PA USA
-------------Forwarded Message-----------------
From:	"info@rosengrp.com", INTERNET:R-9-58655-14818-2-108-US2-6DB097A7@Me=
ssageREACH.com
Date:	03/30/2000  3:35 PM
RE:	Design Your Career Path
 =

*************************************************************
DESIGN YOUR CAREER PATH
Craft Business Institute (CBI)
*************************************************************

CBI is designed for craftspeople, like you,
who want to learn how to design a path for
selling production, limited-edition and
one-of-a-kind artwork in all media.

Through your interactions with presenters and
fellow participants, a resource room full of
vital information sources, a panel discussion
with gallery owners and the CBI exhibition you
will gain the knowledge and confidence you need
to take your craft business to the next level
of success. =


A limited number of full and partial scholarships
will be awarded.

Register for CBI by April 7 and save $100
on your complete conference package (includes
sessions, meals, and lodging). Day packages
are also available.
Call 800.642.4314 for more information or
to register.

*************************************************************
Courses and Presenters:
Accounting  and Taxes: What Every Artist Should Know
Charles Geser, certified public accountant

Artists' Materials That Sell!
Steve Swan, owner, Artifax Gallery

Credit Card Sales: Increase Your Retail
Sales by 30% (or More)!
Guy McDonald, CEO Arts & Crafts Business Solutions

Credits, Collections and Negotiating to Win
Steve Rosen, retailer, Mark Down, Inc.

Effective Display Design: Breaking Through
the Glazed-Over Look
Barbara Eldredge, exhibit consultant, ExpoDisplays

Publicity, Promotion, & Career Planning
Bill Hunt, educator and craft artist

Hitting the Bullseye: Targeted Marketing
Gary Rosenthal, founder and president,
The Rosenthal Collection, Inc.

How to be a Dynamic Craft Seller: Parts I  & II
Bruce Baker, artist, educator and owner,
Great Falls Collection

How to Get the Attention of Corporate Art Buyers
Laura Kaufman, president, ArtResource, Inc.

Creating a Website and Marketing on the Internet =

Jonathan Oleisky, General Manager, NICHE
and AmericanStyle magazines

Is There a Gallery in Your Future?
10 Reasons to Wholesale
Wendy Rosen, founder and president,
The Rosen Group

It's Not Creative Unless It Sells:
How to Advertise =

Kurt Coburn-Herring, sr. account manager,
NICHE magazine

Pricing Your Work: Separating the Amateurs
from the Professionals, Parts I & II
Chuck Geser, certified public accountant =

Sandra Magsamen, ceramic artist, Table Tiles

Profitable Partnerships with Galleries
and Retailers
Steve Swan, owner, Artifax Gallery

Publicity and Promotion & Career Planning
Bill Hunt, educator and craft artist =


Spotlight on Slides: The Difference Between
Good Slides & Bad Slides
Rick Faulkner, artist, Barrick Design

Spotlight on Slides:  How Your Slides
Compete in the Jury Process
Rick Faulkner, artist, Barrick Design

Trends of the  Craft Movement
Donna Milstein, owner, Hanson Galleries

How to Get Your Craft Business Started
Loretta Anne Castagna, jeweler, CBI alumni

How to Develop Your Products Into a Line
Tom Mann, artist, Thomas Mann Design

Protecting Your Designs
Joel Joseph, Chairman, Made in the USA
Foundation

*************************************************************
CALL 800.642.4314 OR VISIT WWW.AMERICANCRAFT.COM FOR
MORE INFORMATION AND A COMPLETE SCHEDULE OF EVENTS.
*************************************************************
Sponsored by The Rosen Group
3000 Chestnut Ave #300
Baltimore, MD 21211
410.889.2933 (phone) 410.889.1320 (fax)
*************************************************************=
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From owner-glass Fri Mar 31 15:21:10 2000
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X-Path: slonet.org!edupjohn
From: "Peggy W. Johnsen" <edupjohn@slonet.org>
To: Shari <shigbee@mtcon.net>
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Shipping glass via Mail Boxes Etc.
Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2000 15:08:14 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Shari:  I shipped a lamp shade using Mail Box Etc and it was broken.  The
box had a big hole where something actually cut into the box.
So...Beware.  Peggy

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From owner-glass Fri Mar 31 15:31:48 2000
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X-Path: slonet.org!edupjohn
From: "Peggy W. Johnsen" <edupjohn@slonet.org>
To: Stephanie N Larson <pennyante@juno.com>
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: contracts
Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2000 14:46:51 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Hi Stephanie:  You are asking about contracts and forms for such for your
commissions.  I am not too sure how formal/informal you are with your
customers but if you don't know the people you will certainly be justified
in asking for a deposit to cover the cost of the supplies, glass, and
materials you will be out.  And...if you do this, then you need to give
them a receipt/contract outlining when the remainder of the cost will be
paid.

Most of the people I do commissions for would be somewhat "astounded" (as
opposed to insulted) if I were to ask.  My philosophy is that it wouldn't
bother me to keep a panel if the customer didn't want to pay for it but in
the 14 years of doing business I have never had anyone not want their
panel.

I know from a pure business standpoint one should have a "contract."  This
is especially true of someone in business with a retail store.  Usually my
customers come to me by word of mouth and a "contract" has always seemed
to be a little heavy.  My mentor had a retail business and she always
asked for a deposit sufficient to cover the cost of glass and supplies she
would use.  This doesn't give you an out and out answer but maybe I tend
to trust people too much.  Peggy

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From owner-glass Fri Mar 31 16:52:09 2000
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X-Path: earthlink.net!crystalangl
From: "Carol DeLong" <crystalangl@earthlink.net>
To: "Shari" <shigbee@mtcon.net>, "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Shipping glass via Mail Boxes Etc.
Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2000 13:26:30 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Hi Shari!

I have shipped numerous items of stained glass through Mail Boxes and have
had great luck...there has never been a problem of any kind. The distances I
have shipped have been from the East Coast to the West Coast...considerably
further than Salt Lake to Denver.   I have made sure that my articles were
wrapped with bubble wrap and protective paper before taking them; AND I
watch them pack the boxes.  This seemed to work (not sure if they took extra
care because I wanted to watch) but I definitely would not just let them
"pack and send".
Good Luck!
Carol D
----- Original Message -----
From: Shari <shigbee@mtcon.net>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Friday, March 31, 2000 10:28 AM
Subject: Shipping glass via Mail Boxes Etc.


> Anyone have any luck (good or otherwise) with shipping a completed glass
> panel (approximately 2' x 2') via Mail Boxes Etc. or a similar
> packing/shipping entity? I'm making this wagon wheel panel for hubby's
> friend in Denver and I don't want to get into the shipping business. I
asked
> my local glass retail store/studio if I could pay them to ship it, but
they
> said no and suggested the Mail Boxes idea... I don't care what they will
> charge, just as long as it doesn't come back to me in a million pieces...
>
> Shari in SLC
>
>
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From owner-glass Fri Mar 31 20:00:37 2000
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From: "Marea G" <marea_g@hotmail.com>
To: kaylawrence@ntlworld.com, glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Re: Jewels -(mould for lamp)
Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2000 12:28:35 EST
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Kay

Thank you for your detailed description of mould-making -- it does sound 
rather complex. If you get around to doing some diagrams I would be very 
interested in receiving them at some stage.

Regards

Marea Georgiou

>From: "Kay Lawrence" <kaylawrence@ntlworld.com>
>To: <glass@bungi.com>
>Subject: Jewels -(mould for lamp)
>Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 02:08:12 +0100
>
>In response to Marea G's query about the mould for my lamp I don't think
>I can explain in text alone, I'll probably need to draw some diagrams
>and send them as attachments to anyone  that wants details.
>
>The principle is quite simple and is based on building up plaster over a
>chicken wire and scrim foundation.  The chicken wire shape is formed
>around a vertical metal spindle which is mounted in the centre of a
>board.  The symmetrical shape is achieved by cutting a thin wooden
>template of the desired lamp profile then rotating this around a central
>spindle  whilst the plaster is still wet. The template needs to have a
>frame on two sides (outer vertical edge and top) so that a hole can be
>drilled to fit over the spindle.    The chicken wire base should
>resemble the anticipated shape of the lamp but needn't be exact.  What
>is important is to ensure that  the rotating template clears the wire
>base by about an inch.  This then gives a reasonably strong 1" thick
>plaster covering.  If it turns out thicker  it doesn't matter, you just
>use more plaster and it takes ages to dry out.
>
>Other important things to remember are :
>1.  To seal all the wooden pieces first with shellac.  If you don't, the
>      moisture in the wet plaster will probably make the wood
>      swell  and prevent smooth rotation.  You might want to use the
>      equipment again and it makes cleaning up easier.
>
>2.  Oil the base board to prevent the dried plaster sticking.
>
>3.  When adding wet plaster, you probably will have to make several
>      mixes.  It works best if it's just starting to "go off" when
>      you add it to the mould.  Then quickly rotate the template to
>      create the shape.  If you add the plaster too soon it  runs
>      straight off and you won't get any build-up.  You may need to
>      remove the template periodically to clean off surplus, set
>      plaster.
>
>4.  Between mixes, don't let your work dry out.  If you have to pause
>      for any reason, sprinkle water over the shape before
>      adding another layer of plaster.  This ensures that the dry section
>      doesn't "pull" the moisture out of the new wet layer
>      and cause it to separate.
>
>Once you've finished the shape and you're happy with the smoothness,
>slide the template off the spindle and let your mould dry out
>thoroughly.  (May take weeks if its large)  You can tell it's dry when
>it has a powdery feel and makes a nasty noise when you scratch it with
>your finger-nail.  With a bit of careful persuasion you should now be
>able to lift it clear of the spindle and board.  To seal the surface,
>give it a couple of coats of shellac.
>
>If you have made a satisfactory mould you'll no doubt want a pattern.
>Decide on the number of pattern repeats and mark this section on the
>mould with a felt pen.  Take some strips of paper (about 1 1/2" wide and
>long enough to run down the length of the mould) then make cuts halfway
>into the width of the strip every inch or so along one side. (This helps
>the strips to follow the curve of the mould). Using a glue stick,
>overlap and glue successive strips to each other - not to the mould,
>until you have as smoothly contoured shell of paper to correspond with
>your section.  Draw out your chosen design on this shell and make sure
>that your pattern repeats "flow" around the lamp.  This can be tricky,
>but one way around it is to temporarily cut the shell up the centre,
>then try to match the outside edges.  You may have to modify the design
>slightly at this point but when you have, you can re-join the centre
>seam again.
>
>Now for the bit I like best.  If you are certain your design works, tape
>the shell securely to the mould to prevent it moving, then with a
>needle, prick holes all along the design lines into the plaster
>underneath.  When you have finished all the lines, remove the paper
>shell and re-inforce the pricked holes in the plaster with a felt pen
>line.  The ink seeps into the holes so you can wipe off the surplus with
>a damp cloth if you like.
>
>Finally, check that the strips which formed the paper shell are all
>still securely glued together,  then cut along the pattern lines. You
>may not need to cut every piece apart - just cut wherever it's necessary
>to release the curvature so that the pattern can be laid flat on a new
>larger piece of paper.  Glue it in place - ideally it should look like a
>slightly exploded version of your original.  I cover mine with a sheet
>of clear plastic at this stage because it wouldn't be easy to reproduce
>if it got damaged.
>
>I don't know if this rambling description will make sense without
>diagrams but please don't be afraid to ask for more info. if you need
>it.
>
>Good luck - it's a messy process, but well worth the effort if you
>succeed.
>Kay Lawrence
>
>
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