From owner-glass Sat Jan  1 07:39:34 2000
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From: bj75@webtv.net (Bill Kirkwood)
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Date: Sat, 1 Jan 2000 10:16:20 -0500 (EST)
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Please send any new things and some ideas you have for patterns on
stepping stones. Thank you.
Jean Kirkwood

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From owner-glass Sat Jan  1 09:39:47 2000
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Subject: -60 degrees F.
Date: Sat, 01 Jan 2000 12:12:20 -0500
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I understand that the person who mentioned  it was -60 degrees lives in
Alaska--I had to look it up for myself--it's true!--so if some
Southerners on list have never experienced the other side of the coin,
look here:

http://www.travelalaska.com/homepage.html

best wishes,
joseph

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From owner-glass Sat Jan  1 12:33:28 2000
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Please remove my name from your list.

Thank you.

elmel1@home.com
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From owner-glass Sat Jan  1 20:33:18 2000
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I would appreciate your adding me to your list.  I learned about you =
from Skip Hodge at Southern Exposure Glass in Winter Garden, FL.
Thanks.

Richard DeLancey

wizard1@magicnet.net

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<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I would appreciate your adding me to =
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<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Thanks.</FONT></DIV>
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From owner-glass Sun Jan  2 14:35:43 2000
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From: "charlie" <charliehodge@ltdarkpoet.junglelink.co.uk>
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Subject: re,re uk artists
Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2000 22:10:58 -0000
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thanks for your reply Toby. a little background then. i've been involved in
stained glass for 8 years, mostly as a hobby, but now feel its time to try
and make it pay. so this year its find a studio and more outlets for my
work. i tend to like mythical subjects, country scenes, kalidascopes and
celtic patterns. also i enjoy leadwork and traditional styles. i teach (only
as a stand in tutor) stained glass at a community workshop in Norwich.
all the best charlie


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From owner-glass Sun Jan  2 14:57:30 2000
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From: "charlie" <charliehodge@ltdarkpoet.junglelink.co.uk>
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Subject: more help please.
Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2000 21:46:23 -0000
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thanks for your help, now the next one. 63/37 solder for decorative work .
anyone know of a uk supplier other than tempsford.
cheers charlie.


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From owner-glass Sun Jan  2 16:39:43 2000
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From: alipearson@webtv.net (alipea)
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Subject: Making large suncatcher with assorted scraps
Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2000 19:02:26 -0500 (EST)
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My sister ordered this last night? She wants some sort of design in the
middle & then assorted scraps filling a frame somewhere around 1' x1' or
larger.

Has anyone made one of these & is there a name for it? How much would
you charge? 
It sounds like more work than a pattern to me? What do you think? 

Thanks in advance,

Ali

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From owner-glass Sun Jan  2 17:02:17 2000
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From: "Catherine Williams" <topcat@magicnet.net>
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Date: Sun, 26 Dec 1999 18:54:02 -0500
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Hi!
Another stained glass enthusiast referred me to you for stained glass info.
Is this a newsletter? What info is available?
Thanks,
GlassCat


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From owner-glass Sun Jan  2 17:11:00 2000
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From: "studio@stainedglass.co.uk" <studio@stainedglass.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Re: more help please.
Date: Mon, 03 Jan 2000 00:17:38 +0000
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At 21:46 02/01/00 -0000, you wrote:
>thanks for your help, now the next one. 63/37 solder for decorative work .
>anyone know of a uk supplier other than tempsford.
>cheers charlie.
>
How much are you looking for?
I think we have 5 kilos or so in stock but I am typing from home and we
wont be open till Tuesday.
Give me a call after 10 am  Tues onwards and I can give you a price if you
are interested - but postage will bump the price up considerably.
Regards
EliZabeth in Bournemouth
01202 514734
Bournemouth Stained Glass
http://www.stainedglass.co.uk
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From owner-glass Sun Jan  2 22:20:55 2000
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Subject: Re: glass creations
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 00:28:16 EST
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Hello, and Welcome,

Bungi is a newsgroup (and much more), on which those interested in the glass 
arts share skills, information, resources, hopes, fears, triumphs, and 
sometimes frustrations, in pursuit of the art or craft (or both).

I personally have benefited from it exponentially. One can participate in the 
various threads, or not, as you choose, but rarely, will you come away from 
reading group discussion, without learning something. Although I've yet to 
find the time to do so, you can also access a wealth of archival information.

Like any group of individuals, we have those who are in need of a more 
positive attitude, but generally, all are well meaning.

Richard
Callahan Stained Glass
Las Vegas, NV
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From owner-glass Mon Jan  3 11:20:04 2000
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From: heinze.g@ns.sympatico.ca (Gail  HeinzeMiline)
To: Glass List <glass@bungi.com.>
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Subject: Temporary adhesive for glass easle work
Date: Mon, 03 Jan 2000 15:07:01 -0400
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I would like to know what is the best adhesive to use when building a
panel on a glass easle in front of a window. I have tried two-sided
tape, but it was a nuisance and didn't hold very well. Thanks!

Gail in Nova Scotia

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From owner-glass Mon Jan  3 12:36:28 2000
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From: heinze.g@ns.sympatico.ca (Gail  HeinzeMiline)
To: Glass List <glass@bungi.com.>
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Subject: Frame Suggestions needed
Date: Mon, 03 Jan 2000 15:12:36 -0400
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What do you suggest for framing a copper foil panel approximately 2' by
3' that will be going in front of an existing window in a bathroom? What
is the best way to deal with the condensation problem that will
inevitably show up between the two windows?   Thanks again!

Gail in Nova Scotia

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From owner-glass Mon Jan  3 12:50:23 2000
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From: "Bob Duchesneau" <bobdu@prodigy.net>
To: "\"Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Temporary adhesive for glass easle work
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 12:20:53 -0800
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The classic method of temporally holding glass on an easel is to use
beeswax. Make 1/4" balls, warm a bit and use two or three compressed between
the two pieces of glass.

Bob in 92026

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From owner-glass Mon Jan  3 13:51:06 2000
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From: Brad Walker <mbwalker@mail.com>
To: heinze.g@ns.sympatico.ca (Gail  HeinzeMiline),
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: RE: Temporary adhesive for glass easle work
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 16:33:20 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Gail, I'm not sure what it's called in Canada, but in the UK there's a
substance called Blue-tac that ought to work.  In the US it's called
Glue-Tac.  You should be able to find it in any store that carries office
supplies -- it's made for sticking posters, etc. to the wall without messing
up the wall.

Brad


------Original Message------
From: heinze.g@ns.sympatico.ca (Gail  HeinzeMiline)
To: Glass List <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: January 3, 2000 7:07:01 PM GMT
Subject: Temporary adhesive for glass easle work


I would like to know what is the best adhesive to use when building a
panel on a glass easle in front of a window. I have tried two-sided
tape, but it was a nuisance and didn't hold very well. Thanks!

Gail in Nova Scotia

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From owner-glass Mon Jan  3 14:34:22 2000
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From: Dani Greer <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: Gail HeinzeMiline <heinze.g@ns.sympatico.ca>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Temporary adhesive for glass easle work
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 17:25:52 -0500
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Message text written by Gail  HeinzeMiline
>I would like to know what is the best adhesive to use when building a
panel on a glass easle in front of a window. I have tried two-sided
tape, but it was a nuisance and didn't hold very well. Thanks!
<

Building the panel??? You mean painting or checking
color... a temporary situation.... right?  In that situation
we use a combination of rosin and beeswax.  We also
use a North-facing window so have little trouble with
the sun melting the wax and the glass dropping off.
After cutting all the glass, painting/checking on the light
easel, all the pieces of glass are tapped off and then
built on the pattern as per usual.

Best regards in the new year!

Dani Greer
Greer Gallery & Studios
www.igga.org/greer/
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From owner-glass Mon Jan  3 15:04:28 2000
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From: "studio@stainedglass.co.uk" <studio@stainedglass.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: US Source of tallow - flux for lead came work
Date: Mon, 03 Jan 2000 22:43:04 +0000
Message-ID: <3.0.5.32.20000103224304.007abbd0@mailhost.stainedglass.co.uk>
Precedence: bulk

Hello all - I am forwarding this info from a non-bunginian who asked me to
pass it on to anyone looking to get hold of tallow sticks for lead work.
We use nothing else on our lead windows!
Regards
EliZabeth in Bournemouth (the other UK one!)
===================================
From: "Victor Rothman" <vrothman@onlineacc.net>
To: <shop@stainedglass.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 17:26:46 -0500

Hi Elizabeth,
I see you are on the Bungi line. There was a lot of interest in Talo flux.
I have been using it for over 15 years. It can be purchased at L.B. Allen
Corp., 725 North Central Ave., Wood Dale Il. 60191, USA. Phone
708-595-6646.  They call it "soldering stick" item # B-601. It cost about
$1.75 USD.  Since I do not belong to Bungi, I can not post this info
myself, so I thought that you might what to.
Vic Rothman
==========

Bournemouth Stained Glass
http://www.stainedglass.co.uk
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From owner-glass Mon Jan  3 16:09:27 2000
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X-Path: ply.adelphia.net!jaugusta
From: Joseph Augusta <jaugusta@ply.adelphia.net>
To: glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Undersea colors needed--
Date: Mon, 03 Jan 2000 18:19:27 -0500
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Anyone have a suggestion on what type/color glass to use on this
project?  Three colors will do for a start-- on an underwater scene of
sand, sea, and a roving red lobster.  I know that lobsters don't turn
red until they're cooked--but no one wants a black, green, blue or
yellow lobster---I know, I've made plenty of neon lobsters in these
colors---and the folks just don't like 'em!

Best wishes,
Joseph

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From owner-glass Mon Jan  3 16:36:43 2000
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X-Path: clientes.euskaltel.es!elere
From: "Elena Rodríguez" <elere@clientes.euskaltel.es>
To: Gail HeinzeMiline <heinze.g@ns.sympatico.ca>,
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Subject: Re: Temporary adhesive for glass easle work
Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2000 01:25:43 +0100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
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Hi Gail
I have sometimes used plasticine, kid's modeling clay, to hold glass
pieces on to mold.
Elena in Spain

Gail HeinzeMiline escribió:

> I would like to know what is the best adhesive to use when building a
> panel on a glass easle in front of a window. I have tried two-sided
> tape, but it was a nuisance and didn't hold very well. Thanks!
>
> Gail in Nova Scotia
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass



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From owner-glass Mon Jan  3 19:37:51 2000
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From: Kauriee@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: cutting larger HF (flat) lead
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 22:16:26 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Can anyone give me some advice on how to cut the larger size HF lead without 
mashing the channels together or mangling it totally?  I have tried using a 
weighted lead knife (new and sharp) working it from side to side...my channel 
still gets crushed.  My only experience is with the HR profile leads that 
don't crush as easily and can be cut with lead nippers.  Please help!

Kauriee
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From owner-glass Mon Jan  3 20:39:02 2000
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From: Kauriee@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: cutting lead
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 23:27:39 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Can anyone give me some advice on how to cut the larger size HF lead
without 
mashing the channels together or mangling it totally?  I have tried using a

weighted lead knife (new and sharp) working it from side to side...my
channel 
still gets crushed.  My only experience is with the HR profile leads that 
don't crush as easily and can be cut with lead nippers.  Please help!
<

Boy, this'll be a tough one to put into words!
Cut the lead first with nippers... with nippers
positioned from channel to channel.  Then clean
up the slight distortion of the leaves, by snipping
each leaf individually with the nippers, not smashing
both together.  Does that make sense??  Boy,
would a picture be worth a thousand words!

Best regards,

Dani Greer
Greer Gallery & Studios

Thanks Dani for your advice.  I ended up trying what you explained (I think), 
but I thought that I was doing it all wrong!!  I thought there has got to be 
an easier way!  

Oh, I almost forgot...how does one access the archives?

Kauriee
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From owner-glass Mon Jan  3 20:42:47 2000
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X-Path: compuserve.com!GreerStudios
From: Dani Greer <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: "INTERNET:Kauriee@aol.com" <Kauriee@aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: cutting larger HF (flat) lead
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 23:18:41 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Message text written by INTERNET:Kauriee@aol.com
>Can anyone give me some advice on how to cut the larger size HF lead
without =

mashing the channels together or mangling it totally?  I have tried using=
 a

weighted lead knife (new and sharp) working it from side to side...my
channel =

still gets crushed.  My only experience is with the HR profile leads that=
 =

don't crush as easily and can be cut with lead nippers.  Please help!
<

Boy, this'll be a tough one to put into words!
Cut the lead first with nippers... with nippers
positioned from channel to channel.  Then clean
up the slight distortion of the leaves, by snipping
each leaf individually with the nippers, not smashing
both together.  Does that make sense??  Boy,
would a picture be worth a thousand words!

Best regards,

Dani Greer
Greer Gallery & Studios
----
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From owner-glass Mon Jan  3 23:11:14 2000
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X-Path: island.net!seaspray
From: "synergyglass" <seaspray@island.net>
To: <Kauriee@aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: cutting lead
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 22:41:11 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Also remember that you can ease the leaves apart with a fid if you need to.


Carol Swann
Synergy Glass & Creative
www.igga.org/synergy
seaspray@island.net
----- Original Message -----
From: <Kauriee@aol.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Monday, January 03, 2000 8:27 PM
Subject: cutting lead


> Can anyone give me some advice on how to cut the larger size HF lead
> without
> mashing the channels together or mangling it totally?  I have tried using
a
>
> weighted lead knife (new and sharp) working it from side to side...my
> channel
> still gets crushed.  My only experience is with the HR profile leads that
> don't crush as easily and can be cut with lead nippers.  Please help!
> <
>
> Boy, this'll be a tough one to put into words!
> Cut the lead first with nippers... with nippers
> positioned from channel to channel.  Then clean
> up the slight distortion of the leaves, by snipping
> each leaf individually with the nippers, not smashing
> both together.  Does that make sense??  Boy,
> would a picture be worth a thousand words!
>
> Best regards,
>
> Dani Greer
> Greer Gallery & Studios
>
> Thanks Dani for your advice.  I ended up trying what you explained (I
think),
> but I thought that I was doing it all wrong!!  I thought there has got to
be
> an easier way!
>
> Oh, I almost forgot...how does one access the archives?
>
> Kauriee
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>

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From owner-glass Tue Jan  4 05:41:42 2000
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From: MATRONA@aol.com
To: Kauriee@aol.com, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: cutting lead
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 08:22:28 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

In a message dated 1/3/00 11:40:56 PM Eastern Standard Time, Kauriee@aol.com 
writes:

> Can anyone give me some advice on how to cut the larger size HF lead
>  without 
>  mashing the channels together or mangling it totally?  I have tried using a
>  
>  weighted lead knife (new and sharp) working it from side to side...my
>  channel 
>  still gets crushed.  My only experience is with the HR profile leads that 
>  don't crush as easily and can be cut with lead nippers.  Please help!
>  <
>  
>  Boy, this'll be a tough one to put into words!
>  Cut the lead first with nippers... with nippers
>  positioned from channel to channel.  Then clean
>  up the slight distortion of the leaves, by snipping
>  each leaf individually with the nippers, not smashing
>  both together.  Does that make sense??  Boy,
>  would a picture be worth a thousand words!
>  
>  Best regards,
>  
>  Dani Greer
>  Greer Gallery & Studios
>  
>  Thanks Dani for your advice.  I ended up trying what you explained (I 
think),
>  
>  but I thought that I was doing it all wrong!!  I thought there has got to 
be 
> 
>  an easier way!  
>  
>  Oh, I almost forgot...how does one access the archives?
>  
YOu know, I've recently been cutting wide lead, which is rather thin flanged. 
 I've had the best luck with cutting it with the knippers across the face of 
the flange, ( inother words mashing it down on purpose,) and then opening it 
with my lead knife, which I use after almost every cut anyway.  this works 
pretty well, unless your flange is heavy, then if that's the case use your 
knife, and be careful to put the cutting strength into the heart only.  The 
sharper your knife, the better this works, and do not assume that just 
because your knife is new it is sharp  Some are not.
Anne
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From owner-glass Tue Jan  4 06:13:28 2000
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X-Path: mail.com!mbwalker
From: Brad Walker <mbwalker@mail.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Warm glass web site
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 08:44:21 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

For anyone who's interested, I've put together a web site devoted to warm
glass techniques like glass fusing and slumping.  The site has a lengthy
tutorial on basic processes and techniques, as well as information on lots
of topics such as materials, health & safety, and troubleshooting.  I'd be
very much interested in hearing comments from anyone who visits the site.

I'm also looking for a web host to host the site.  All I need are a decent
amount of storage space (not much graphics at present due to space
limitations), a low price (free's nice, but don't want to have to have ads),
and the ability to use a domain url.  Any suggestions would be greatly
appreciated.

Please send comments to me by clicking on the comment portion of the site or
by e-mailing to mbwalker@mail.com

The url for the site is: http://pweb.netcom.com/~mbwalker/

Thanks in advance.

Brad Walker

______________________________________________
FREE Personalized Email at Mail.com
Sign up at http://www.mail.com?sr=mc.mk.mcm.tag001

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From owner-glass Tue Jan  4 07:27:44 2000
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From: Tenlee Tarrier <ttarrier@corecomm.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
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Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2000 08:47:59 -0500
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Please remove me from your list.
Thank you. 
Tenlee Tarrier
ttarrier@corecomm.com
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From owner-glass Tue Jan  4 08:13:57 2000
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From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@alpha.nad.adelphia.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Warm glass web site
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@POP>
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 10:38:11 +0000
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> The url for the site is: http://pweb.netcom.com/~mbwalker/

Very nice. The only thing I'd suggest is to make the buttons on the 
left smaller and arrange it so they could be seen all the time, 
rather than have them disappear off the top as you scroll down.
Other than that, 

  the title of the page I looked at is 3 characters longer than 
  search engine robots prefer ... at the moment, the page I looked at 
  would be listed in a search engine as "Warm Glass: Fusing, 
  Slumping,  and Other Kiln Forming Techniq" ... see? the whole 
  title's not there

  you're not taking advantage of META descriptions and keywords, 
  which would make your site more visible to search engines (and more 
  highly visited as a result) ... what this means is that the page 
  that I looked at (for instance) would have a description consisting 
  of the words it finds on the page:

     Warm Glass Fusing, Slumping, and Other Kiln Forming Techniques Click
     here to return to home page. Click here to e-mail your comments. 
     &nbsp;&nbsp;&nb 

  If you add META description and keywords, you'll be much better 
off because you could control exactly what's said below the page's 
title as it appears in search engines.
  
As for host space, I do that .. although I'm expensive, since all 
domains under my jurisdiction are put up on *five servers - New York, 
Virginia, California, Toronto (Canada), and Amsterdam (The 
Netherlands). If you're interested, see http://alldesigncom.com 

Nearly free ($2 month) hosting space is available from, among others, 
http://faq.web2010.com/index.shtml ... you have to handle all of the 
details yourself, though, including FTP and all that.

Good luck with your site! I think it's a great start!

Albert, former Exec. Dir., International Guild of Glass Artists

Albert Lewis
AllDesignCom.com | Design & Communications
__________________________________________
54 Cherry Street      North Adams MA 01247
413 663-7946             Fax: 413 663-7167
      http://www.alldesigncom.com/

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From owner-glass Tue Jan  4 09:04:57 2000
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X-Path: aol.com!Kauriee
From: Kauriee@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Came cutting
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 11:29:49 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Thanks to all of you who responded to my question about cutting larger leads. 
 This message board is wonderful!!  You have a question one day...type it 
into the computer, and 'poof' the next morning there are the answer to your 
prayers!  

Thank you Jim for telling me how to access the archives, I am still sort of 
new to this whole process so be patient with me!

Does anyone have any suggestions, comments, etc...regarding the use of the 
came saws?  Do they work well?  Which one is recommended?

Kauriee
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From owner-glass Tue Jan  4 10:04:32 2000
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X-Path: island.net!seaspray
From: "synergyglass" <seaspray@island.net>
To: <Kauriee@aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Came cutting
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 09:35:41 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Hi Kauree

Yep, I've experienced that same magic myself...sharing problems at whatever
level usually produces a variety of answers and quickly too.

I don't have a came saw and haven't bought one for the following reasons:
lead came is easy enough to cut with nippers that a saw isn't required.  For
brass and zinc came I use a dremel tool with cut off wheel, which iis less
expensive and has way more uses than a came saw.  I currently get only 2-3
commissions a year for brass came, so it's not cost effective.  If I lived
in an area where brass is more popular I would probably purchase one. So the
answer to your question to buy or not buy a came saw is...it depends!

And here's a question for the group:  could an ordinary wood chop/miter saw
be made into a came saw for brasss by using an abrasive blade similar to the
Dremel's cut off tool?  Is such a blade made?  Has anyone tried this?

Carol Swann
Synergy Glass & Creative
www.igga.org/synergy
seaspray@island.net
----- Original Message -----
From: <Kauriee@aol.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 04, 2000 8:29 AM
Subject: Came cutting


> Thanks to all of you who responded to my question about cutting larger
leads.
>  This message board is wonderful!!  You have a question one day...type it
> into the computer, and 'poof' the next morning there are the answer to
your
> prayers!
>
> Thank you Jim for telling me how to access the archives, I am still sort
of
> new to this whole process so be patient with me!
>
> Does anyone have any suggestions, comments, etc...regarding the use of the
> came saws?  Do they work well?  Which one is recommended?
>
> Kauriee
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>

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From owner-glass Tue Jan  4 12:10:15 2000
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X-Path: MAIL.AOC.STATE.KY.US!KitW
From: "Walden, Kit" <KitW@MAIL.AOC.STATE.KY.US>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: RE: Protection during glass grinding
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 13:51:14 -0500 
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

I use a paper grocery bag.  I cut half of the front out and sit the grinder
inside the bag and I cut a small hole in the back for the cord.  This allows
any pieces which fling off to stay inside the bag, it protects the walls and
me and it couldn't be any cheaper to use and replace.  I also have the
plastic face shield and I wear goggles, a respirator and I bought a long
coat from a hair salon supply company to protect my clothes.  I look like a
mad scientist and love to see peoples' reactions when I answer the door in
this getup.

Happy New Year!

p.s. tip to save fingers and hands while grinding--I use the
accounting/filing tips for fingers and they work GREAT!  I bought them at an
office supply store and they have little nubs on them which keep the glass
from slipping  They have paid for themselves in not having to buy bandages
and bandaids.


Kit Walden
Tuilelaith's Stained Glass


> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Witchdoc3@aol.com [SMTP:Witchdoc3@aol.com]
> Sent:	Wednesday, December 29, 1999 3:58 PM
> To:	glass@bungi.com
> Subject:	Re: Protection during glass grinding
> 
> 
> In a message dated 12/28/99 3:14:51 PM, bobdu@prodigy.net writes:
> 
> >I have a three sided splash shield that goes around the sides and back
> >of my grinder. In top of this is a piece of 1/4" plate glass that is 1 X
> 2'.
> 
> At home I set up my grinder inside an old aquarium that's been turned on
> its 
> side. At the shop we usually just wear goggles. (As soon as I can afford
> it, 
> I'm going to invest in a pair of proper industrial safety glasses......
> I'm 
> in need of a new glasses prescription anyway.)
> 
> >Ps: If I wanted to wear a gas mask I would have joined the Army.
> 
> I hate the things too, but after my doctor nearly had a heart attack over
> my 
> slightly elevated blood lead level a couple of months ago, I figure it's 
> worth it. And I absolutely swear by the face mask for puttying, because
> the 
> turp and linseed fumes give me a headache (and I don't need to be
> breathing 
> whiting dust anyway).
> 
> 
> Sparks
> ----
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From owner-glass Tue Jan  4 12:28:42 2000
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Kauriee@aol.com
Subject: Re: cutting larger HF (flat) lead
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 20:00:19 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk

I'd say less pressure on, and more wiggling of, the knife.
Steve
In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, Kauriee@aol.com writes
>Can anyone give me some advice on how to cut the larger size HF lead without 
>mashing the channels together or mangling it totally?  I have tried using a 
>weighted lead knife (new and sharp) working it from side to side...my channel 
>still gets crushed.  My only experience is with the HR profile leads that 
>don't crush as easily and can be cut with lead nippers.  Please help!
>
>Kauriee
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Tue Jan  4 12:36:36 2000
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Kauriee@aol.com
Subject: Re: Came cutting
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 20:08:31 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk

Kauriee,
Unless you are using brass or zinc, I don't see the point.  Lead knives
or dykes cut much more quickly and just as accurately (with practice).
Steve

In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, Kauriee@aol.com writes
>Thanks to all of you who responded to my question about cutting larger leads. 
> This message board is wonderful!!  You have a question one day...type it 
>into the computer, and 'poof' the next morning there are the answer to your 
>prayers!  
>
>Thank you Jim for telling me how to access the archives, I am still sort of 
>new to this whole process so be patient with me!
>
>Does anyone have any suggestions, comments, etc...regarding the use of the 
>came saws?  Do they work well?  Which one is recommended?
>
>Kauriee
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
----
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From owner-glass Tue Jan  4 13:32:45 2000
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X-Path: ply.adelphia.net!jaugusta
From: Joseph Augusta <jaugusta@ply.adelphia.net>
To: glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Lead-free solder--
Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2000 16:00:27 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

I was up at Home Depot and picked up some lead-free solder made by Alpha
Metals--no info. on the label other than *Silver bearing solder*. Anyone
use this stuff? It's costly--almost $5 for 1/2 pound.

Best wishes,
Joseph

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From owner-glass Tue Jan  4 14:31:48 2000
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X-Path: mail.com!mbwalker
From: Brad Walker <mbwalker@mail.com>
To: Joseph Augusta <jaugusta@ply.adelphia.net>, glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: RE: Lead-free solder--
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 17:11:39 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Most of Alpha's solder is for industrial applications, rather than for
stained glass work.  I've never used it, but they do have a web site
(complete with on-line catalog) at: http://www.alphametals.com/

Cole Sonafrank, who uses lead free solder exclusively, does have a web page
that discusses lead free soldering:
http://kokomo.gi.alaska.edu/leadfree.html  Sonafrank says that he uses an
industrial solder by a company called Johnson Manufacturing, so maybe the
Alpha solder will work, too.

Hope this helps.

Brad Walker

------Original Message------
From: Joseph Augusta <jaugusta@ply.adelphia.net>
To: glass <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: January 4, 2000 9:00:27 PM GMT
Subject: Lead-free solder--


I was up at Home Depot and picked up some lead-free solder made by Alpha
Metals--no info. on the label other than *Silver bearing solder*. Anyone
use this stuff? It's costly--almost $5 for 1/2 pound.

Best wishes,
Joseph

----
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______________________________________________
FREE Personalized Email at Mail.com
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From owner-glass Tue Jan  4 18:17:11 2000
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X-Path: compuserve.com!GreerStudios
From: Dani Greer <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: Brad Walker <mbwalker@mail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Warm glass web site
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 21:04:51 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Message text written by Brad Walker
>For anyone who's interested, I've put together a web site devoted to war=
m
glass techniques like glass fusing and slumping.  The site has a lengthy
tutorial on basic processes and techniques, as well as information on lot=
s
of topics such as materials, health & safety, and troubleshooting.  I'd b=
e
very much interested in hearing comments from anyone who visits the site.=

<
And, it's marvelous!  All I can say is write that =

book fast, Brad!!  As far as hosting the website,
maybe some glass organization like AGSA or
IGGA will get smart and offer you some space...
it's clearly educational.

Speaking of warm glass, next issue of Common
Ground:Glass will focus on the subject and Brad
is our featured writer.  Stay tuned!

Best regards,

Dani Greer
----
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From owner-glass Tue Jan  4 20:19:43 2000
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X-Path: aol.com!Beveler4
From: Beveler4@aol.com
To: Kauriee@aol.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: cutting lead
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 23:07:07 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Hi Kauriee,
I have used a came saw to cut small 1/4" H came that crushes under the 
pressure of the knife and find that it is much easier than using lead dykes 
that waste so much lead because of the odd cut that you end up with . Never 
have liked lead dykes but,as for came saws they are very handy for many 
things around the shop.I even use mine to cut wood for frames that I make.I 
use a Jarmac but I'm sure that there are some other good ones out there. I'm 
sure that using a came saw on the larger came would work well in your case. I 
prefer the metal blade verses the fiber blades but that is just my personal 
preference,and since I do a lot of beveled windows I use it to cut a lot of 
zinc and it does this well.When cutting came with a saw I first mark the cut 
with my knife then just take it to the saw and preform the cut,and it is then 
cut to the right size just as if you had used the knife.
Beveler4 (Stan)
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From owner-glass Tue Jan  4 22:16:44 2000
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X-Path: prodigy.net!bobdu
From: "Bob Duchesneau" <bobdu@prodigy.net>
To: "\"Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>, "synergyglass" <seaspray@island.net>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Came cutting
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 21:49:16 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

>>And here's a question for the group:  could an ordinary wood chop/miter
saw
>>be made into a came saw for brass by using an abrasive blade similar to
the
>>Dremel's cut off tool?  Is such a blade made?  Has anyone tried this?

Maybe yes and maybe no. I have a Glastar chop saw that takes four inch
diameter metal and abrasive blades. The metal blade does a good job on lead,
reinforced lead and zinc. It quickly wears out on brass. Cutting steel rebar
is out of the question for the metal blade.

The abrasive blade is excellent for zinc, brass and steel rebar. It quickly
clogs up when used with lead. One of the reasons it is good for these metals
is the fact that it is only .035 inch in thickness. A thicker blade would
generate more heat, require more power and tend to chew up the thin brass
and zinc as most of these cames are made from formed up thin sheet stock.
Even with this blade the cuts require a small amount of dressing to clean up
burrs.

I do not know of .035 inch thick blades in larger diameters. I doubt they
would be safe in general use.

Bob in 92026


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From owner-glass Wed Jan  5 07:41:35 2000
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X-Path: worldnet.att.net!leetollett
From: lee tollett <leetollett@worldnet.att.net>
To: synergyglass <seaspray@island.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Came cutting
Date: Wed, 05 Jan 2000 06:14:29 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Hi everyone

    Yes you can use a common wood miter saw to cut came. I also work with wood
allot, so I had an extra saw not being used at the time, and set it up for
came.  I use a 10" X 1/8" metal cutting fiber blade.  You have to make a jig
using two peace's of wood as a backing to support the came.  Sense the blade is
wide, it does require some clean up of burrs.  But for me having perfect angle
cuts is worth the time.  Works great for me!!

Lee Tollett

synergyglass wrote:

> Hi Kauree
>
> Yep, I've experienced that same magic myself...sharing problems at whatever
> level usually produces a variety of answers and quickly too.
>
> I don't have a came saw and haven't bought one for the following reasons:
> lead came is easy enough to cut with nippers that a saw isn't required.  For
> brass and zinc came I use a dremel tool with cut off wheel, which iis less
> expensive and has way more uses than a came saw.  I currently get only 2-3
> commissions a year for brass came, so it's not cost effective.  If I lived
> in an area where brass is more popular I would probably purchase one. So the
> answer to your question to buy or not buy a came saw is...it depends!
>
> And here's a question for the group:  could an ordinary wood chop/miter saw
> be made into a came saw for brasss by using an abrasive blade similar to the
> Dremel's cut off tool?  Is such a blade made?  Has anyone tried this?
>
> Carol Swann
> Synergy Glass & Creative
> www.igga.org/synergy
> seaspray@island.net
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Kauriee@aol.com>
> To: <glass@bungi.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, January 04, 2000 8:29 AM
> Subject: Came cutting
>
> > Thanks to all of you who responded to my question about cutting larger
> leads.
> >  This message board is wonderful!!  You have a question one day...type it
> > into the computer, and 'poof' the next morning there are the answer to
> your
> > prayers!
> >
> > Thank you Jim for telling me how to access the archives, I am still sort
> of
> > new to this whole process so be patient with me!
> >
> > Does anyone have any suggestions, comments, etc...regarding the use of the
> > came saws?  Do they work well?  Which one is recommended?
> >
> > Kauriee
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> >
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

----
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From owner-glass Wed Jan  5 14:36:44 2000
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From: Cecily and Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Subject: [Fwd: Came cutting]
Date: Wed, 05 Jan 2000 17:28:22 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Organization: Grendel Studios
Precedence: bulk

First of three email replies that were sent yesterday afternoon, so I have no idea
why they didn't make it to bungi.

Cecily and Ralph Wood wrote:

> I have used two came saws (chop saws or miter saws).  One is that cute new red
> Diamond Tech, and the other is Gryphon.  I'd recommend the Gryphon one because
> you have a large screw with which you fasten the length of wood, came, etc. to
> the guide, making certain the material doesn't shift from the pressure or
> movement of the blade.  This allows you to push the head down (which activates
> the saw) with one hand, and hold the other end of the came, wood, etc. in the
> other hand.  With the Diamond Tech, you need three hands - one to hold each end
> of the came, wood, etc. and one to push.  Most people aren't built that way.
> With the Diamond Tech, therefore you have one end of the came unsupported which
> means you must hold much closer to the blade (not recommended) for stability and
> the other end whips off uncontrolled.  Doesn't seem all that safe.  It's a joy
> to cut with either of these saws, though, if you've been cutting zinc or brass
> by hand.  Zip and it's done.
>
> Understand, with these saws, you are meant to cut only narrow pieces of
> material.  Look at the blade when pushed to it's lowest level.  It can cut no
> wider than that, so it is not like a table saw where you push your material
> continuously from the front.  Neither of these are multiangle saws, either,
> where the material can be angled and the head also angled.  These saws will only
> make a vertical cut.
>
> I've also seen the Inland one.  It looks like a circular table saw in miniature,
> with the flat surface and part of the blade rising thru a crack and visible
> above the table surface.  According to those who used it, it is practically
> worthless for cutting the long thin strips of whatever, since they can't be
> supported well and you have to get your hands much too close to the blade
> (should be using a pusher, but no way to do that when supporting the material).
> At least the one I saw didn't give you any way of controlling your angle for
> mitered cuts.  Maybe the newer ones do.
>
> Caveat:  Do NOT use lead in these saws!!!  Lead gums up the blade to the point
> it is worthless for cutting anything else.  And DO wear eye protection.  -  Cec
>
> Kauriee@aol.com wrote:
>
> > Thanks to all of you who responded to my question about cutting larger leads.
> >  This message board is wonderful!!  You have a question one day...type it
> > into the computer, and 'poof' the next morning there are the answer to your
> > prayers!
> >
> > Thank you Jim for telling me how to access the archives, I am still sort of
> > new to this whole process so be patient with me!
> >
> > Does anyone have any suggestions, comments, etc...regarding the use of the
> > came saws?  Do they work well?  Which one is recommended?
> >
> > Kauriee
>
> --
> *********************************************************************
> *  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
> *  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
> *********************************************************************

--
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************


----
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From owner-glass Wed Jan  5 14:36:47 2000
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From: Cecily and Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Subject: [Fwd: Came cutting]
Date: Wed, 05 Jan 2000 17:28:42 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Organization: Grendel Studios
Precedence: bulk

Secondof three email replies that were sent yesterday afternoon, so I have no idea
why they didn't make it to bungi.

Cecily and Ralph Wood wrote:

> I have used two came saws (chop saws or miter saws).  One is that cute new red
> Diamond Tech, and the other is Gryphon.  I'd recommend the Gryphon one because
> you have a large screw with which you fasten the length of wood, came, etc. to
> the guide, making certain the material doesn't shift from the pressure or
> movement of the blade.  This allows you to push the head down (which activates
> the saw) with one hand, and hold the other end of the came, wood, etc. in the
> other hand.  With the Diamond Tech, you need three hands - one to hold each end
> of the came, wood, etc. and one to push.  Most people aren't built that way.
> With the Diamond Tech, therefore you have one end of the came unsupported which
> means you must hold much closer to the blade (not recommended) for stability and
> the other end whips off uncontrolled.  Doesn't seem all that safe.  It's a joy
> to cut with either of these saws, though, if you've been cutting zinc or brass
> by hand.  Zip and it's done.
>
> Understand, with these saws, you are meant to cut only narrow pieces of
> material.  Look at the blade when pushed to it's lowest level.  It can cut no
> wider than that, so it is not like a table saw where you push your material
> continuously from the front.  Neither of these are multiangle saws, either,
> where the material can be angled and the head also angled.  These saws will only
> make a vertical cut.
>
> I've also seen the Inland one.  It looks like a circular table saw in miniature,
> with the flat surface and part of the blade rising thru a crack and visible
> above the table surface.  According to those who used it, it is practically
> worthless for cutting the long thin strips of whatever, since they can't be
> supported well and you have to get your hands much too close to the blade
> (should be using a pusher, but no way to do that when supporting the material).
> At least the one I saw didn't give you any way of controlling your angle for
> mitered cuts.  Maybe the newer ones do.
>
> Caveat:  Do NOT use lead in these saws!!!  Lead gums up the blade to the point
> it is worthless for cutting anything else.  And DO wear eye protection.  -  Cec
>
> Kauriee@aol.com wrote:
>
> > Thanks to all of you who responded to my question about cutting larger leads.
> >  This message board is wonderful!!  You have a question one day...type it
> > into the computer, and 'poof' the next morning there are the answer to your
> > prayers!
> >
> > Thank you Jim for telling me how to access the archives, I am still sort of
> > new to this whole process so be patient with me!
> >
> > Does anyone have any suggestions, comments, etc...regarding the use of the
> > came saws?  Do they work well?  Which one is recommended?
> >
> > Kauriee
>
> --
> *********************************************************************
> *  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
> *  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
> *********************************************************************

--
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************


----
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From owner-glass Wed Jan  5 15:05:52 2000
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X-Path: home.com!cecnralph
From: Cecily and Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Subject: [Fwd: cutting lead + Re: tips]
Date: Wed, 05 Jan 2000 17:27:43 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Organization: Grendel Studios
Precedence: bulk

First of three email replies that were sent yesterday afternoon, so I have no idea
why they didn't make it to bungi.

Cecily and Ralph Wood wrote:

> I have a pair of bent needle nose pliers (jewelry type) that  are the handiest
> things.  One of the uses is for straightening the flanges on came, whether
> hobby, or regular copper/brass/zinc/lead. Another use is for peeling old
> solder/foil from projects I'm repairing.  I also use them to hold blobs that
> have been foiled or for decorative metal stampings while tinning.  And that's
> just the beginning.  Other than the soldering iron or glass cutters, they are
> probably the most used tool I have.
>
> The chief advantage is holding things at the bend.  Imagine bending your fingers
> and then holding something between two of your fingers.  And with unfoiling, I
> use the bend to scrape (and hopefully grab).
>
> You can probably purchase them at a hobby store that carries jewelry supplies
> (beeds, etc) or metal modal car kits, or the wood for making miniature airplanes
> etc.  Best $10 you can spend.  Don't get anything big - they should be quite
> small.
>
> There is another kind of jewelry plier which I have.  It is a more specialized
> tool, not used a lot, but when needed, it is just the thing.  These are a type
> of needle nose, except that each needle (each nose?) is conical.  They are great
> for bending wire.
>
> Kauriee@aol.com wrote:
>
> > Can anyone give me some advice on how to cut the larger size HF lead
> > without
> > mashing the channels together or mangling it totally?  I have tried using a
> >
> > weighted lead knife (new and sharp) working it from side to side...my
> > channel
> > still gets crushed.  My only experience is with the HR profile leads that
> > don't crush as easily and can be cut with lead nippers.  Please help!
> > <
> >
> > Boy, this'll be a tough one to put into words!
> > Cut the lead first with nippers... with nippers
> > positioned from channel to channel.  Then clean
> > up the slight distortion of the leaves, by snipping
> > each leaf individually with the nippers, not smashing
> > both together.  Does that make sense??  Boy,
> > would a picture be worth a thousand words!
> >
> > Best regards,
> >
> > Dani Greer
> > Greer Gallery & Studios
> >
> > Thanks Dani for your advice.  I ended up trying what you explained (I think),
> > but I thought that I was doing it all wrong!!  I thought there has got to be
> > an easier way!
> >
> > Oh, I almost forgot...how does one access the archives?
> >
> > Kauriee
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
> --
> *********************************************************************
> *  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
> *  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
> *********************************************************************

--
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************


----
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To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
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From owner-glass Wed Jan  5 15:11:59 2000
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From: Cecily and Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Subject: [Fwd: Came cutting]
Date: Wed, 05 Jan 2000 17:29:56 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Organization: Grendel Studios
Precedence: bulk

Third of three email replies that were sent yesterday afternoon, so I have no
idea why they didn't make it to bungi.

Cecily and Ralph Wood wrote:

> This is only a guess but I'd say you could get a diamond blade for them.  If
> so, yes they certainly could be used.
>
> My principal use of the little chop saw is for making frames.  Frames are by
> far the most expensive part of almost any displayed item.  I have a lot of
> posters and prints, and there is no way I can afford to get them framed
> commercially, or even at the do-it-yourself framing places, or with prefab
> frames.  Obviously, if you want wood frames for glass panels, it too is
> cheaper.  Of course that won't help with circular or oval panels, but most of
> us probably don't do a lot of those. - Cec
>
> synergyglass wrote:
>
> > Hi Kauree
> >
> > Yep, I've experienced that same magic myself...sharing problems at whatever
> > level usually produces a variety of answers and quickly too.
> >
> > I don't have a came saw and haven't bought one for the following reasons:
> > lead came is easy enough to cut with nippers that a saw isn't required.  For
> > brass and zinc came I use a dremel tool with cut off wheel, which iis less
> > expensive and has way more uses than a came saw.  I currently get only 2-3
> > commissions a year for brass came, so it's not cost effective.  If I lived
> > in an area where brass is more popular I would probably purchase one. So the
> > answer to your question to buy or not buy a came saw is...it depends!
> >
> > And here's a question for the group:  could an ordinary wood chop/miter saw
> > be made into a came saw for brasss by using an abrasive blade similar to the
> > Dremel's cut off tool?  Is such a blade made?  Has anyone tried this?
> >
> > Carol Swann
> > Synergy Glass & Creative
> > www.igga.org/synergy
> > seaspray@island.net
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <Kauriee@aol.com>
> > To: <glass@bungi.com>
> > Sent: Tuesday, January 04, 2000 8:29 AM
> > Subject: Came cutting
> >
> > > Thanks to all of you who responded to my question about cutting larger
> > leads.
> > >  This message board is wonderful!!  You have a question one day...type it
> > > into the computer, and 'poof' the next morning there are the answer to
> > your
> > > prayers!
> > >
> > > Thank you Jim for telling me how to access the archives, I am still sort
> > of
> > > new to this whole process so be patient with me!
> > >
> > > Does anyone have any suggestions, comments, etc...regarding the use of the
> > > came saws?  Do they work well?  Which one is recommended?
> > >
> > > Kauriee
> > > ----
> > > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> > >
> >
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
> --
> *********************************************************************
> *  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
> *  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
> *********************************************************************

--
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************


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From owner-glass Wed Jan  5 16:40:05 2000
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From: "charlie" <charliehodge@ltdarkpoet.junglelink.co.uk>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: kit walden
Date: Wed, 5 Jan 2000 21:10:13 -0000
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dear kit,
I don't feel I can be much help on this. I have only really dealt with small
local firms in my area. this area is extremely bad in providing jobs in this
field, only paying minimum wage and expecting good design skills as well.
my only suggestion is try the major companies in the UK, such as James
Hetley(London). an appeal on bungi will bring you other companies that I'm
not aware of no doubt. Other than that the craft fair circuit could be an
option but stall prices could be frightening again some shops will take work
but watch the mark up they want, they end up earning more than you.

all the best in your search
Charlie


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From owner-glass Wed Jan  5 17:11:45 2000
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From: "Candy" <candy@ghostman.com>
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Subject: New thread---grinder head mystery
Date: Wed, 05 Jan 00 17:41:11 
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Hi everyone,

When I bought a old guy's home studio out, one of the things that turned up was a brand 
new in the wrapper Inland grinder head.. no markings on the card...

It's 1 5/8" long (not counting the brass barrel attachment) and is 1 1/2" in dia. It's white. I 
haven't taken it out of the wrapper, so it could be packed felt, but it's not very flexible, 
dry as it is..

Any clues out there?

Candy

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From owner-glass Wed Jan  5 18:11:37 2000
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From: Mike Savad <esavad@home.net>
To: Candy <candy@ghostman.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: New thread---grinder head mystery
Date: Wed, 05 Jan 2000 20:41:20 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<200001060041.RAA08687@mantis.privatei.com>>
Organization: Mike's Stained Glass
Precedence: bulk

Candy wrote:
> 
> Hi everyone,
> 
> When I bought a old guy's home studio out, one of the things that turned up was a brand
> new in the wrapper Inland grinder head.. no markings on the card...
> 
> It's 1 5/8" long (not counting the brass barrel attachment) and is 1 1/2" in dia. It's white. I
> haven't taken it out of the wrapper, so it could be packed felt, but it's not very flexible,
> dry as it is..
> 
> Any clues out there?
> 
> Candy
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


it sounds like a hole cutter. inland does make those. the largest head
they make for grinders is 1".


---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass - Tips Tricks Photos
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
9-12-99 - New Pages Added: 3 new Tips sections - Reader's Tips, Making
your own Glass Filigree, and Cutting Different types of glass. There are
also a lot of new Sky City pictures.
----
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From owner-glass Wed Jan  5 20:49:19 2000
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Subject: Posted this on Jan 1?
Date: Wed, 5 Jan 2000 23:11:16 -0500 (EST)
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I only got 1 response?

My sister ordered a foiled stained glass suncatcher/window (w/ frame?) 1
x 1 ft or larger.  A design in center wit scraps surrounding it,
Doesn't this sound like too much work?  How much would you charge?  Is
it worth it?

Ali

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From owner-glass Wed Jan  5 21:25:26 2000
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Skip,

Maybe Harbor Freight?

Kauriee
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From owner-glass Thu Jan  6 04:00:08 2000
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Subject: Re: Posted this on Jan 1?
Date: Thu, 06 Jan 2000 09:21:41 +0000
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At 23:11 05/01/00 -0500, Ali wrote:
>I only got 1 response?
>
>My sister ordered a foiled stained glass suncatcher/window (w/ frame?) 1
>x 1 ft or larger.  A design in center wit scraps surrounding it,
>Doesn't this sound like too much work?  How much would you charge?  Is
>it worth it?
>
Sorry you feel neglected!  Maybe people were too caught up in the time of
the year celebrations.
Probably like me they were not quite sure what you wanted advice on.  Has
your sister ordered it from you - so you want advice on how much to charge
her - or from someone else - and you want to make sure she is not being
overcharged?
If the former then it is really a question of
a) Do you want to make it? - if not suggest another pattern you would like
to do.
Stained glass as a hobby ought to be enjoyable!!  Nothing is more depressing
than having to do a piece you dont like just because you have been asked to
do it.  You often dont make such a good job of those kinds of projects as
your heart is not in it.  Those of us who make a living from the craft have
to steel ourselves to putting our best efforts into work we are not that
enthusiastic about if we have bills to pay, but those lucky people with a
day job can pick and choose what they make.
b) "Too much work" depends on how you personally like to work on projects.  
Some of our students amaze me by being happy fiddling with really tiny
scraps of glass  because they like to use up all those odd pieces, while
others throw pieces into the scrap box that are 6 inches or so square
because they cant be bothered messing about with small pieces!! (the rest of
the students then fight over who gets to pick those pieces out and use them!!)
Also some people are happier working strictly to pattern, so prefer a
"proper design" while others like the feel of spontanaeity (sp?) you get
when just putting pieces in where they fit, and often get just as effective
a random pattern.
c)How much is your time worth to you?  We always suggest that you should get
as much as you feel your work is worth - and that varies immensely from one
crafter to another.  Often people spend many hours slaving over a piece of
work for family members and dont even charge them the materials cost!  We
usually suggest that you work out what it will cost in materials, add a bit
for use of the tools/equipment - if lots of grinding is involved then charge
a bit extra to allow for wear and tear - than add to this whatever you want
to be paid for your time.  If the total amounts to more than the potential
"customer" thinks it is "worth" to them then dont make it - and spend your
time doing something for yourself!

Regards
EliZabeth in Bournemouth
Bournemouth Stained Glass
http://www.stainedglass.co.uk

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From owner-glass Thu Jan  6 04:04:31 2000
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Cecily and Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
Subject: Re: [Fwd: Came cutting]
Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2000 09:20:21 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, Cecily and Ralph Wood
<cecnralph@home.com> writes
>First of three email replies that were sent yesterday afternoon, so I have no 
>idea
>why they didn't make it to bungi.
>
>Cecily and Ralph Wood wrote:
...cut.....
>> I've also seen the Inland one.  It looks like a circular table saw in 
>miniature,
>> with the flat surface and part of the blade rising thru a crack and visible
>> above the table surface.  According to those who used it, it is practically
>> worthless for cutting the long thin strips of whatever, since they can't be
>> supported well and you have to get your hands much too close to the blade
>> (should be using a pusher, but no way to do that when supporting the 
>material).
>> At least the one I saw didn't give you any way of controlling your angle for
>> mitered cuts.  Maybe the newer ones do.
>>
>> Caveat:  Do NOT use lead in these saws!!!  Lead gums up the blade to the point
>> it is worthless for cutting anything else.  

I disagree on the use of the Inland for lead.  It works really well on
lead calme.  The blade that comes with it cleans itself of lead very
well.  The guide does have provision for any angle by means of a pivot
and locking thumb screw.  It is not very substantial, but works for non-
production work.  For production work, I devised my own guides at the
angles I needed.  

The major problem is assembly of the product.  The problem after that is
the poor quality motor.  So don't expect a long life in production work.
For other work it will be fine.

I set mine up so that its work surface was at the same height as the
neighbouring work bench.  This supports the uncut parts of the calme.
You could arrange things so the grinder and the saw table were
interchangeable next to your work bench.

I still don't see why you would want to do all the work of marking the
angle on the calme, taking the calme to the saw, adjusting the guide to
the appropriate angle, put on the goggles, turn on the saw, make the
cut, turn off (and at the end of the day empty the off-cut particles
from the machine). It would be much quicker to cut with the lead knife.
All you have to do with it is to sharpen it regularly (say every half
day) on an oil or Arkansas stone.

>And DO wear eye protection.  -  
Yep! Very important.  It is surprising how far the swarf can be thrown.
So if you are near the machine, you will be hit strongly with lead
particles.  Eye protection is a MUST!

IT is also important that you do not use your fingers to directly push
the items to be cut.  You MUST use a guide or pusher to manipulate the
lead, zinc, brass, etc., near the blade.  It cuts the lead and other
soft metals so quickly that you  could loose whole fingers in a fraction
of a second.  NEVER, NEVER, NEVER use a table saw without a guide or
pusher!

Steve

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Thu Jan  6 04:04:49 2000
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X-Path: bellatlantic.net!elsiemt
From: elsie turqman <elsiemt@bellatlantic.net>
To: glass <glass@bungi.com>, Joyce Koenig <movingeasy@aol.com>,
Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="------------AD8E66325A87D1A30ED22ADA"
Subject: NG  Rules for Living
Date: Thu, 06 Jan 2000 06:42:19 -0500
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--------------AD8E66325A87D1A30ED22ADA
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Here are some good thoughts on how to live.  If luck comes with the
transmission, we can all use some.  Skip past the start and start
reading the rules.

Elsie

  
> >    FOR GOOD LUCK AND GOOD LIFE IN YEAR 2000 AND THEREAFTER,
> >
> >   THE FOLLOWING IS A NEPALESE GOOD LUCK TANTRA TOTEM.
> >
> >
> >
> >  This tantra totem has been sent to you for good luck.  It has been sent
> >
> >  around the world ten times so far.  You will receive good luck within
> >
> >  four days of relaying this tantra totem.  Send copies to people you think
> 
> >
> > need good luck.
> >
> >
> >
> >   Don't send money as fate has no price.  Do not keep this message.  The
> >
> >   tantra totem must leave your hands in 96 hours.
> >
> >   You will  get a very pleasant surprise.  This is true, even if  you are
> >
> >   not superstitious.
> >
> >
> >
> >   INSTRUCTIONS FOR LIFE
> >
> >
> >
> >    1.  Give people more than they expect and do it cheerfully.
> >
> >    2.  Memorize your favorite poem.
> >
> >    3.  Don't believe all you hear, spend all you have or sleep all you
> >
> >         want.
> >
> >    4.  When you say, "I love you", mean it.
> >
> >    5.  When you say, "I'm sorry", look the person in the eye.
> >
> >    6.  Be engaged at least six months before you get married.
> 
> >    7.  Believe in love at first sight.
> >
> >    8.  Never laugh at anyone's dreams. People who don't have dreams don't
> > have much.
> >
> >    9.  Love deeply and passionately.  You might get hurt but it's the only
> 
> >
> > way to live
> >         life completely.
> >
> >   10.  In disagreements, fight fairly.  No name calling.
> >
> >   11.  Don't judge people by their relatives.
> >
> >   12.  Talk slowly but think quickly.
> >
> >   13.  When someone asks you a question you don't want to answer, smile
> > and
> > ask,                                           "Why do you want to know?"
> >
> >   14.  Remember that great love and great achievements involve great risk.
> 
> >
> >   15.  Call your mom.
> >
> >   16.  Say "bless you" when you hear someone sneeze.
> >
> >   17.  When you lose, don't lose the lesson.
> >
> >   18.  Remember the three R's:  Respect for self, Respect for others,
> >
> >          Responsibility for all your actions.
> >
> >   19.  Don't let a little dispute injure a great friendship.
> >
> >   20.  When you realize you've made a mistake, take immediate steps to
> > correct it.
> >
> >   21.  Smile when picking up the phone. The caller will hear it in your
> > voice.
> >
> >   22.  Marry a man/woman you love to talk to.  As you get older, their
> > conversational         skills will be as important as any other.
> >
> >   23.  Spend some time alone.
> >
> >   24.  Open your arms to change, but don't let go of your values.
> >
> >   25.  Remember that silence is sometimes the best answer.
> >
> >   26.  Read more books and watch less TV
> >
> >   27.  Live a good, honorable life.  Then when you get older and think
> > back,
> >
> >         you'll get  to enjoy it a second time.
> >
> >   28.  Trust in God but lock your car.
> >
> >   29.  A loving atmosphere in your home is so important.  Do all you can
> > to
> >
> >         create a tranquil harmonious home.
> >
> >   30.  In disagreements with loved ones, deal with the current situation.
> >
> >         Don't bring up the past.
> >
> >   31.  Read between the lines.
> >
> >   32.  Share your knowledge.  It's a way to achieve immortality.
> >
> >   33.  Be gentle with the earth.
> >
> >   34.  Pray.  There's immeasurable power in it.
> >
> >   35.  Never interrupt when you are being flattered.
> >
> >   36.  Mind your own business.
> >
> >   37.  Don't trust a man/woman who doesn't close his/her eyes when you
> > kiss.
> >
> >   38.  Once a year, go someplace you've never been before.
> >
> >   39.  If you make a lot of money, put it to use helping others while you
> >
> >         are living. That is wealth's greatest satisfaction.
> >
> >   40.  Remember that not getting what you want is sometimes a stroke of
> > luck.
> >
> >   41.  Learn the rules...and then break some.
> >
> >   42.  Remember that the best relationship is one where your love for each
> 
> >
> >        other is greater than your need for each other.
> >
> >   43.  Judge your success by what you had to give up in order to get it.
> >
> >   44.  Remember that your character is your destiny.
> >
> >   45.  Approach love and cooking with reckless abandon.
> >
> >
> >
> >   Now, here's the FUN part!  Send this to at least 5 people and your life
> >
> >   will improve.
> >
> >
> >
> >    0-4 people:       Your life will improve slightly.
> >    5-9 people:       Your life will improve to your liking.
> >   10-14 people:    You will have at least 5 surprises in the next 3 weeks
> >   15 and above:     Your life will improve drastically and everything you
> >   ever dreamed of will begin to take shape.
> >
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I'm not a big believer in these, but I liked the advice. 

> 
> LUCK AND LIFE
> 
>  
> 
>    FOR GOOD LUCK AND GOOD LIFE IN YEAR 2000 AND THEREAFTER, 
> 
>   THE FOLLOWING IS A NEPALESE GOOD LUCK TANTRA TOTEM.
> 
>  
> 
>  This tantra totem has been sent to you for good luck.  It has been sent 
> 
>  around the world ten times so far.  You will receive good luck within 
> 
>  four days of relaying this tantra totem.  Send copies to people you think

> 
> need good luck.
> 
>  
> 
>   Don't send money as fate has no price.  Do not keep this message.  The 
> 
>   tantra totem must leave your hands in 96 hours. 
> 
>   You will  get a very pleasant surprise.  This is true, even if  you are 
> 
>   not superstitious.
> 
>  
> 
>   INSTRUCTIONS FOR LIFE
> 
>  
> 
>    1.  Give people more than they expect and do it cheerfully. 
> 
>    2.  Memorize your favorite poem. 
> 
>    3.  Don't believe all you hear, spend all you have or sleep all you 
> 
>         want.
> 
>    4.  When you say, "I love you", mean it. 
> 
>    5.  When you say, "I'm sorry", look the person in the eye. 
> 
>    6.  Be engaged at least six months before you get married. 

>    7.  Believe in love at first sight.
> 
>    8.  Never laugh at anyone's dreams. People who don't have dreams don't 
> have much.
> 
>    9.  Love deeply and passionately.  You might get hurt but it's the only

> 
> way to live
>         life completely.
> 
>   10.  In disagreements, fight fairly.  No name calling. 
> 
>   11.  Don't judge people by their relatives. 
> 
>   12.  Talk slowly but think quickly. 
> 
>   13.  When someone asks you a question you don't want to answer, smile 
> and 
> ask,                                           "Why do you want to know?" 
> 
>   14.  Remember that great love and great achievements involve great risk.

> 
>   15.  Call your mom.
> 
>   16.  Say "bless you" when you hear someone sneeze. 
> 
>   17.  When you lose, don't lose the lesson. 
> 
>   18.  Remember the three R's:  Respect for self, Respect for others, 
> 
>          Responsibility for all your actions. 
> 
>   19.  Don't let a little dispute injure a great friendship. 
> 
>   20.  When you realize you've made a mistake, take immediate steps to 
> correct it.
> 
>   21.  Smile when picking up the phone. The caller will hear it in your 
> voice.
> 
>   22.  Marry a man/woman you love to talk to.  As you get older, their 
> conversational         skills will be as important as any other.
> 
>   23.  Spend some time alone.
> 
>   24.  Open your arms to change, but don't let go of your values. 
> 
>   25.  Remember that silence is sometimes the best answer. 
> 
>   26.  Read more books and watch less TV 
> 
>   27.  Live a good, honorable life.  Then when you get older and think 
> back,
> 
>         you'll get  to enjoy it a second time. 
> 
>   28.  Trust in God but lock your car. 
> 
>   29.  A loving atmosphere in your home is so important.  Do all you can 
> to
> 
>         create a tranquil harmonious home. 
> 
>   30.  In disagreements with loved ones, deal with the current situation. 
> 
>         Don't bring up the past.
> 
>   31.  Read between the lines.
> 
>   32.  Share your knowledge.  It's a way to achieve immortality. 
> 
>   33.  Be gentle with the earth.
> 
>   34.  Pray.  There's immeasurable power in it. 
> 
>   35.  Never interrupt when you are being flattered. 
> 
>   36.  Mind your own business.
> 
>   37.  Don't trust a man/woman who doesn't close his/her eyes when you 
> kiss.
> 
>   38.  Once a year, go someplace you've never been before. 
> 
>   39.  If you make a lot of money, put it to use helping others while you 
> 
>         are living. That is wealth's greatest satisfaction. 
> 
>   40.  Remember that not getting what you want is sometimes a stroke of 
> luck.
> 
>   41.  Learn the rules...and then break some. 
> 
>   42.  Remember that the best relationship is one where your love for each

> 
>        other is greater than your need for each other. 
> 
>   43.  Judge your success by what you had to give up in order to get it. 
> 
>   44.  Remember that your character is your destiny. 
> 
>   45.  Approach love and cooking with reckless abandon. 
> 
>  
> 
>   Now, here's the FUN part!  Send this to at least 5 people and your life 
> 
>   will improve.
> 
>  
> 
>    0-4 people:       Your life will improve slightly. 
>    5-9 people:       Your life will improve to your liking.
>   10-14 people:    You will have at least 5 surprises in the next 3 weeks 
>   15 and above:     Your life will improve drastically and everything you 
>   ever dreamed of will begin to take shape. 
> 

--------------AD8E66325A87D1A30ED22ADA--

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From owner-glass Thu Jan  6 06:08:35 2000
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From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
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Subject: Posted this on Jan 1?
Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2000 08:41:31 -0500
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Message text written by alipea
>My sister ordered a foiled stained glass suncatcher/window (w/ frame?) 1=

x 1 ft or larger.  A design in center wit scraps surrounding it,
Doesn't this sound like too much work?  How much would you charge?  Is
it worth it?<

1x1 ft square copper foil - framed in ?oak?
I would charge somewhere between $100-$125 depending on
the complexity of the design.  Is it worth it?  Only you can call that on=
e.

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
North Wales, PA USA
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From owner-glass Thu Jan  6 07:52:37 2000
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X-Path: mail.com!mbwalker
From: Brad Walker <mbwalker@mail.com>
To: alipearson@webtv.net (alipea), glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: RE: Ali's suncatcher/window
Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2000 10:31:19 -0500 (EST)
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Ali wrote:

<<My sister ordered a foiled stained glass suncatcher/window (w/ frame?) 1 x
1 ft or larger.  A design in center with scraps surrounding it, Doesn't this
sound like too much work?  How much would you charge?  Is it worth it?>>

Ali,

Here's an interesting example of the difference between fusing and stained
glass work.  If we assume that the glass just is just scrap glass (therefore
it's free), then the major cost involved is the labor to put it all
together.  Once we've created the design, traditional stained glass work
calls for you to foil and solder, then patina.  How many hours will that
take?

Fusing, by contrast, calls for you to just put the arranged scraps in a kiln
and fire.  No foiling, no soldering, no patina, no cares about how small the
scraps are.  Of course the final results will look different (no soldering
lines, for instance), but fusing is an interesting alternative way to make
suncatchers. (Assuming you have the kiln, of course.)

The buttons from my site are all details from bowls I've made. If you look
at them, you'll see that while they don't look like stained glass work, they
could (perhaps with some design changes)make a great suncatcher/window, too.
You can see the buttons at: http://pweb.netcom.com/~mbwalker/  (The buttons
for "Equipment" and "Troubleshooting" are taken from bowls that were both
made using scrap glass in the way described above. The bowls each took about
half an hour (an hour at most) in labor and sold for around $65 each -- $90
to 100 retail).  If they were flat pieces (rather than bowls), they could
have been profitably sold for even less.)

(I apologize if anyone thinks this reply is an ad for my web site.  It isn't
meant to be -- I just thought the point about fused vs stained glass was
worth mentioning.)

Brad

------Original Message------
From: alipearson@webtv.net (alipea)
To: glass@bungi.com
Sent: January 6, 2000 4:11:16 AM GMT
Subject: Posted this on Jan 1?


I only got 1 response?


Ali

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From owner-glass Thu Jan  6 09:23:05 2000
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From: HILLHD1@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Kalidoscope Question
Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2000 12:03:16 EST
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 Greetings all for the New Year!
My goal, in part for this year is to make some Kalidoscopes. I have kits & 
made 1 in class a couple of years ago. My question is re the oil scopes, not 
the wand ones.
I was in the twin cities last fall & caught the scope display at Southdale 
Mall.
The scopes that interested me the most were the ones with the oil filled 
wheels, they were just magical to look at! Does anyone know how they are 
made? Or where I could get intouch with someone who does. I emailed 
Kalido.com 2x with no response.  TIA  Karlene from Wisconsin
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From owner-glass Thu Jan  6 09:39:14 2000
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From: Joseph Augusta <jaugusta@ply.adelphia.net>
To: Brad Walker <mbwalker@mail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Ali's suncatcher/window
Date: Thu, 06 Jan 2000 11:47:06 -0500
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Brad Walker wrote:
(I apologize if anyone thinks this reply is an ad for my web site.  It isn't
meant to be--

OK, you win, I looked!  Nice stuff! I really wanted to look at the Advanced
material, but since I'm not Advanced I didn't want to cheat---

best wishes,
Joseph

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From owner-glass Thu Jan  6 09:55:10 2000
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From: "Howard" <weaver51@teleport.com>
To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
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any consideration for the skill level of the.........not to mention ( I just
did) how may pieces were involved in this endeavor?

When someone asks me how much does a "shade" costs without being more
specific, my usual answer is to equate it to: how much does a car cost?"

enjoy, H


weaver51@teleport.com
Elaine and Howard
best lamps on the "net":
http://www.teleport.com/~cbs/howard

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From owner-glass Thu Jan  6 13:40:48 2000
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My ISP is changing mail servers!!

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From owner-glass Thu Jan  6 15:01:36 2000
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From: Joseph Augusta <jaugusta@ply.adelphia.net>
To: glass <glass@bungi.com>
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Subject: Engineering problem
Date: Thu, 06 Jan 2000 17:03:05 -0500
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Say you want to make a panel--a rectangle in cathedral glass--12'' wide
by 10" high, and you want to put another--different colored-- rectangle
in front of it--same width, but just 8" high. then more, same width, but
6", 4", and finally 2" high--making 5 layers in all--using came rather
than foil--how would you do it?

Best wishes,
Joseph

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From owner-glass Thu Jan  6 17:08:47 2000
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From: "pj friend" <artglass@waterw.com>
To: "glass" <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: Engineering problem
Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2000 18:18:49 -0500
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the question is why would you do it???

pj



Paul Friend Architectural Glass & Design, Inc.
www.waterw.com/~artglass
Accredited Studio Member of the Stained Glass Association of America
Member International Guild of Glass Artists
Associate Member AIA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Joseph Augusta" <jaugusta@ply.adelphia.net>
To: "glass" <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 06, 2000 5:03 PM
Subject: Engineering problem


> Say you want to make a panel--a rectangle in cathedral glass--12'' wide
> by 10" high, and you want to put another--different colored-- rectangle
> in front of it--same width, but just 8" high. then more, same width, but
> 6", 4", and finally 2" high--making 5 layers in all--using came rather
> than foil--how would you do it?
>
> Best wishes,
> Joseph
>
> ----
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>


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From: Mike Savad <esavad@home.net>
To: Joseph Augusta <jaugusta@ply.adelphia.net>
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Subject: Re: Engineering problem
Date: Thu, 06 Jan 2000 20:13:44 -0500
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Joseph Augusta wrote:
> 
> Say you want to make a panel--a rectangle in cathedral glass--12'' wide
> by 10" high, and you want to put another--different colored-- rectangle
> in front of it--same width, but just 8" high. then more, same width, but
> 6", 4", and finally 2" high--making 5 layers in all--using came rather
> than foil--how would you do it?
> 
> Best wishes,
> Joseph
> 
> ----
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does it really have to be came? i suppose the only way you could do it
is to buy sheet lead. the glass would have to be glued or it will slide
around. 

finding the lead may be more difficult though. old gutter supplies might
be one source. or a lead apron place.


---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass - Tips Tricks Photos
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
9-12-99 - New Pages Added: 3 new Tips sections - Reader's Tips, Making
your own Glass Filigree, and Cutting Different types of glass. There are
also a lot of new Sky City pictures.
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From owner-glass Thu Jan  6 21:15:18 2000
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To: "\"Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
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Subject: Re: Engineering problem
Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2000 20:51:06 -0800
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    I would fuse the panel and use clear class to fill in where the colored
panels are short. Would end up with a 12 X 10 X 5/8" glass tile with no
chance of crud getting between the layers.
    Bob in 92026


    Joseph Augusta wrote:
    >
    > Say you want to make a panel--a rectangle in cathedral glass--12''
wide
    > by 10" high, and you want to put another--different colored--
rectangle
    > in front of it--same width, but just 8" high. then more, same width,
but
    > 6", 4", and finally 2" high--making 5 layers in all--using came rather
    > than foil--how would you do it?



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From owner-glass Thu Jan  6 21:45:39 2000
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Subject: diamond bandsaws
Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2000 00:14:27 EST
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HI all,

I'm new to this group and I'm in the market for a diamond bandsaw and am 
stuck between the taurus II or the gryphon c -90, but leaning more toward the 
gryphon. The tuarus looks more like tupperware to me than studio equipment, 
but I've heard nothing but good things about it. I've had trouble though 
finding specs on the gryphon beyond sales pitches. I'm curious of it's 
horsepower, weight and power consumption. Also if there are any opinions as 
to the quality of the product I'd greatly appreciate them. I'll be using it 
for cutting fused glass 1/4" - 1/2" sheets for slumping and slumped peices 
for incorporation in panels. 

TIA,

Carl Ross
Lake Avenue Ceramic and Glass Studio
Phillips, WI
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From owner-glass Thu Jan  6 22:33:27 2000
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Content-Type: multipart/mixed;
Subject: 90 days to financial independence
Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2000 22:23:47 -0800
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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This is NOT a  SPAM  Message. Either we have corresponded before, OR we are
both members of the same "Voluntary Opt-In" List Club.  Should you desire to
be removed from my list, simply enter "remove" in the subject field and
return this E-Mail.
      Thanks, and Have the Best New Year Ever!!

 . . . . . . . . . . . . FINALLY!!!  -----  Just listen to this:

 Your whole financial picture is about to change beginning IMMEDIATELY... In
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beginning TODAY.....

After you have listened to this overview and you need more information (as I
did), simply email:

dalereece@home.com <mailto:dalereece@home.com>

for a WEBSITE you will never forget, and for more info on how this SIMPLE
system is working for thousands of people worldwide.  You will QUICKLY FIND
this is the EASIEST thing you have ever done, requiring the least amount of
you time..........for the BIGGEST INCOME you have ever made.

 Thanks for your time, and the Best to You and Yours as this new Millennium
unfolds,

Jag-Dreamer

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From owner-glass Thu Jan  6 22:40:50 2000
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X-Path: prodigy.net!bobdu
From: "Bob Duchesneau" <bobdu@prodigy.net>
To: "\"Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Fw: New Toyo cutter
Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2000 22:35:08 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Here is some information on the new Toyo cutter as discussed on the Prodigy
glass bulletin board.

Bob in 92026 (also CATS, Bob)

Skorzglas writes:


>But now I have a question. It says it "features a barrel with an adjustable
>four-position saddle." No instructions come with it and I can figure out
two
>positions - if you're familiar with the saddle which comes in two pieces,
>one would be putting the saddle closest to the oil bladder and the other
>would be putting the saddle closest to the gold screw on top. That would
put
>your hand closer or further away from the cutter itself. Is anyone familiar
>with the new cutter or does anyone have a web site address for Toyo (Glass
>Accessories International is the manufacturer). Thanks!! Jane
>
>
>glassman
>Moderator   posted 01-05-00 01:15 AM
>---------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
>----
>Jane,
>I have one of the new Toyo cutters.
>The part with the projection can be placed either up or down. The round
>spacer can be placed above or below it. Ergo: four positions. I put the
>projection in the web of my hand.
>
>When I first got my cutter it was very uncomfortable to use. Then I
>discovered how to adjust it. It is now my favorite cutter. The tapping
>action (slight) of the wheel seems to do a better job of scoring. I cut a
>bunch of complex bevels from !/4" plate glue chip stock yesterday and had
my
>best luck yet with this material.
>
>I think this cutter is a winner.
>
>------------------
>CATS, Bob
>
>
>
>skorzglas
>Member   posted 01-05-00 11:17 AM
>---------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
>----
>Bob, thanks for the info - duh didn't think about reversing the "saddle." I
>loved mine from the minute I put it in my hand - am using it with the small
>spacer at the top and the saddle in the lowest position, thus putting my
>finger closest to the cutting wheel; but men have larger hands so probably
>you have yours adjusted upward. Shouldn't they include directions, or are
>most people not as dumb as I am - please don't answer that <g>? It is THE
>most comfortable cutter I've ever had. Jane
>
>glassman
>Moderator   posted 01-05-00 04:46 PM
>---------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
>----
>I suspect that I have larger hands than you do but I have my cutter rigged
>the same with the saddle down and the spacer on top.
>It seems to oil better too. There is a valve rather than a wick.
>
>Good cutting.
>
>------------------
>CATS, Bob
>
>
>
>ronray
>Member   posted 01-06-00 03:44 AM
>---------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
>----
>Duh ---
>Thanks to you two, I went and looked at the cutter which I had been using
>for a couple of months and loving it. Admitting to my stupidity I didn't
>even realize it was adjustable and was just using it as it came from the
>supplier with the spacer at the bottom of the barrel. Moved it above the
>support wand and it seems even more comfortable. A really incredible tool,
>and I don't have to keep cleaning up spilled oil.
>------------------
>Ron Ray
>
>
>
>skorzglas
>Member   posted 01-06-00 11:02 AM
>---------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
>----
>Maybe the manufacturer needs to wake up and put instructions with the
cutter
>for people like "us" <g>. Jane
>
>glassman
>Moderator   posted 01-07-00 01:07 AM
>---------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
>----
>You're sure right about the need for a good instruction sheet. Toyo Pistol
>Grips come either two or three to the box. There is one sheet of
>instructions per box. They've been doing this for years. Go figure.
>Was using my tapper cutter today and it sure did the job. Made a long score
>in 1/4" plate glass and broke it out with my hands. Previously would be
>placing the score at the edge if the table, raising the glass and slamming
>down to get the score to run.
>
>I am not sure but I THINK the wheel and axle are one piece and the axle is
a
>square or hex. When the cutter is pulled along at a good rate I can feel
the
>vibration that the cutter seems to be making. Someone said this drives the
>score deeper into the glass. Perhaps so but I have had better luck with
>light scores rather than heavy when using the older style Toyo cutters or
>any other for that matter.
>
>I don't think the new heads can be used with existing grips. There seems to
>be a small size difference.
>
>I feel this is a must buy item. Retail should not be more than $40.00. If
it
>saves glass it will quickly pay for itself.
>
>------------------
>CATS, Bob


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From owner-glass Thu Jan  6 23:32:38 2000
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	for rglass-42; Thu, 6 Jan 2000 23:28:26 -0800 (PST)
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X-Path: prodigy.net!bobdu
From: "Bob Duchesneau" <bobdu@prodigy.net>
To: "\"Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>, "Tom" <thomm@vnet.net>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: New Toyo cutter
Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2000 23:21:20 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

>>Bob,

What is the address of this discussion group?  Did you post it before?
Thanks.

Tom<<

I don't think you can access the Prodigy chat boards unless you are a
Prodigy member. The glass board is a sub board under the crafts board. If
anything really good comes along I am likely to repost it here.

Bob in 92026

Bob

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From owner-glass Fri Jan  7 00:31:34 2000
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X-Path: prodigy.net!bobdu
From: "Bob Duchesneau" <bobdu@prodigy.net>
To: "\"Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: New Toyo cutter
Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2000 00:12:38 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Tom,
Here is the page for the Prodigy glass board.

http://crafts.bb.prodigy.net/craftsb/forumdisplay.cgi?action=topics&forum=St
ained+Glass&number=17&DaysPrune=10&LastLogin=

You may be able to read the board but not post to it.

Bob

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From owner-glass Fri Jan  7 06:04:38 2000
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From: Witchdoc3@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Engineering problem
Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2000 08:51:02 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk


In a message dated 1/6/00 8:09:17 PM, artglass@waterw.com writes:

>the question is why would you do it???

That's what my Enquiring Mind wants to know.... but who knows what evil lurks 
in the minds of artists? :-)

As for the "how," if I read the original post right you've got 5 pieces, each 
12" in one direction. Prob noblem. Frame each piece in U came, stack 'em up 
and solder the edges together just like you would with copper foil.


Sparks
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From owner-glass Fri Jan  7 11:32:12 2000
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X-Path: slonet.org!edupjohn
From: "Peggy W. Johnsen" <edupjohn@slonet.org>
To: Joseph Augusta <jaugusta@ply.adelphia.net>
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Engineering problem
Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2000 11:23:47 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Joseph:  Not sure what you are trying to achieve but there are several
possibilities you could think about:  (1)  Since you are using cathedral
glass you could use the ultra-violet adhesive and use lead came around the
outside borders only; (2)  Copper foil the panels and solder them together
where they touch each other; or (3) Wrap each rectangle with lead came and
solder them where each joins another.  What are you making?  Peggy

On Thu, 6 Jan 2000, Joseph Augusta wrote:

> Say you want to make a panel--a rectangle in cathedral glass--12'' wide
> by 10" high, and you want to put another--different colored-- rectangle
> in front of it--same width, but just 8" high. then more, same width, but
> 6", 4", and finally 2" high--making 5 layers in all--using came rather
> than foil--how would you do it?
> 
> Best wishes,
> Joseph
> 
> ----
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> 

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From owner-glass Fri Jan  7 21:04:43 2000
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From: "Family Account" <shad@mail2.nai.net>
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Subject: Keeping inventory
Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2000 23:14:22 -0500
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0051_01BF5964.EE8BBC40
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We are thinking about using Access to keep a running inventory (perhaps =
running queries monthly or weekly to add in newly made items and take =
out sales) (those tables would also keep track of sales).  Does anyone =
know of an Access book that addresses inventory?  Yup, I already know =
quite a bit about Access, but am trying to figure out the details and =
the queries.  Alot of making Access work is in the planning.

Meanwhile, I'm thinking of a claddaugh design...lots of claddaugh rings =
on the Web!  That's one of my chores for the weekend, doing mostly =
design work! =20

Dorothy

------=_NextPart_000_0051_01BF5964.EE8BBC40
Content-Type: text/html;
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>We are thinking about using Access to =
keep a=20
running inventory (perhaps running queries monthly or weekly to add in =
newly=20
made items and take out sales) (those tables would also keep track of=20
sales).&nbsp; Does anyone know of an Access book that addresses =
inventory?&nbsp;=20
Yup, I already know quite a bit about Access, but am trying to figure =
out the=20
details and the queries.&nbsp; Alot of making Access work is in the=20
planning.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Meanwhile, I'm thinking of a claddaugh=20
design...lots of claddaugh rings on the Web!&nbsp; That's one of my =
chores for=20
the weekend, doing mostly design work!&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Dorothy</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-glass Fri Jan  7 21:28:15 2000
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X-Path: pacifier.com!ptap
From: Pamela Burns-Tappan <ptap@pacifier.com>
To: "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Selling Diamond Laser Speedster
Date: Fri, 07 Jan 2000 21:15:24 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Organization: MM Ltd.
Precedence: bulk

Used once and purchased less than a year ago.
Price $175.00 plus shipping (weighs approx. 20 pounds)
2 year guarantee still good and comes with 2 new blades.
Will be sent in original box to you.

If interested email me off group.

See ya

Pam


--

Ms. Pamela Burns-Tappan
Executive Director
The Stained Glass Artists
http://www.stainedglassartists.com
A Division of: Moswood Mountain Ltd.
http://www.moswoodmountainltd.com


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From owner-glass Sat Jan  8 07:06:26 2000
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From: GlasLdy@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: SG Biz For Sale
Date: Sat, 8 Jan 2000 09:36:35 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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I don't know if I should be doing this on the list but after seeing Pam put 
the laser saw up for sale ......I thought I would let everyone know I am 
offering my SG business on eBay.  So if you are on the east coast or midwest 
and have thought of starting your own or adding a wholesale division to your 
existing biz please e-mail me off list.  It's really quite a deal!
Thanks, and I'm sorry if I stepped on any toes.
Janice 
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=232136755
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From owner-glass Sat Jan  8 11:06:10 2000
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From: Dani Greer <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: "INTERNET:GlasLdy@aol.com" <GlasLdy@aol.com>
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Subject: SG Biz For Sale
Date: Sat, 8 Jan 2000 13:46:18 -0500
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Message text written by INTERNET:GlasLdy@aol.com
>I don't know if I should be doing this on the list but after seeing Pam
put =

the laser saw up for sale ......I thought I would let everyone know I am =

offering my SG business on eBay.  So if you are on the east coast or
midwest =

and have thought of starting your own or adding a wholesale division to
your =

existing biz please e-mail me off list.  It's really quite a deal!
Thanks, and I'm sorry if I stepped on any toes.
Janice <

Are you kidding?? This is what networking is all about.
Can't imagine why anyone would be offended by it....

Best regards,

Dani Greer
Greer Gallery & Studios
www.igga.org/greer/
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From owner-glass Sat Jan  8 17:54:32 2000
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From: "Glass Expressions" <glassx@bardstown.com>
To: "IGGA BUNGI" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Fw: the power of one n/g
Date: Sat, 8 Jan 2000 21:34:57 +0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk


-----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Hart <jeffhart@wesnet.com>
To: Bob Michael <BDLAS@aol.com>; Joshua Michael <jlrookie@yahoo.com>; Uncle
Wayne & Aunt Kay <Rfannin@hsnp.com>; Sue Michael <Rxy98@aol.com>; Stephanie
Ann Michael <MSWeside@aol.com>; Rick & Anita Richmond
<glassx@bardstown.com>; Rexx & Sheila Bradley <rexx@gateway.net>; Nick &
Byrda Hart <byrdah@aol.com>; Lori & Tito <Loydeepop@cs.com>; Leah Michael
<lemabean01@aol.com>; Koester Pavilion <kpesd@wesnet.com>; Keith W. Hart
<HartKV@aol.com>; Jim & Judy Kaster <kasterja@bright.net>; Aunt Margie &
Larry Snyder <RTDWKR897@aol>; com@mail.bardstown.com
<com@mail.bardstown.com>; Amy Michael <flamey03@aol.com>
Date: Friday, January 07, 2000 12:36 PM
Subject: Fw: the power of one


>this one is really good !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>-----Original Message-----
>From: TAYJAY94 <tayjay94@email.msn.com>
>To: Jenny <quervi@aol.com>; Jeff <jeffhart@wesnet.com>; Diane
><DPHDBKER@AOL.COM>; Dad & Mary <grouchesx4@aol.com>; Clarissa
><clarissacopta@exchange.daytonoh.ncr.com>; Chris <sakimahkee@aol.com>;
>Murray <yarrum43@aol.com>; Rhonda <ro136@aol.com>; Lynda
<mcfallla@aol.com>;
>linda <linda.hopson@wright.edu>
>Date: Wednesday, January 05, 2000 6:15 PM
>Subject: the power of one
>
>
>>the power of one!
>>
>>>> One day, when I was a freshman in high school, I saw a kid from my
class
>>>> was walking home from school. His name was Kyle. It looked like he was
>>>> carrying all of his books. I thought to myself, "Why would anyone bring
>>>> home all his books on a Friday? He must really be a nerd." I had quite
a
>>>> weekend planned (parties and a football game with my friends tomorrow
>>>> afternoon), so I shrugged my shoulders and went on.
>>>>
>>>> As I was walking, I saw a bunch of kids running toward him. They ran at
>>>> him, knocking all his books out of his arms and tripping him so he
>landed
>>>> in the dirt. His glasses went flying, and I saw them land in the grass
>>>about ten feet from him. He looked up and I saw this terrible sadness in
>>his eyes. My heart went out to him. So, I jogged over to him and as he
>>crawled
>>>around looking for his glasses, and I saw a tear in his eye. As I handed
>>him his glasses, I said, "Those guys are jerks. They really should  get
>>lives."
>>>>
>>>> He looked at me and said, "Hey thanks!" There was a big smile on his
>>face.
>>>It was one of those smiles that showed real gratitude. I helped him pick
>up
>>>his books, and asked him where he lived. As it turned out, he lived  near
>>me, so I asked him why I had never seen him before. He said he had  gone
to
>>>private school before now. I would have never hung out with a  private
>>school kid before. We talked all the way home, and I carried his  books.
He
>>turned
>>>out to be a pretty cool kid. I asked him if he wanted to  play football
on
>>>Saturday with me and my friends. He said yes.
>>>
>>>We hung all weekend and the more I got to know Kyle, the more I liked
him.
>>>And my friends thought the same of him. Monday morning came, and there
was
>>>Kyle with the huge stack of books again. I stopped him and said, boy, you
>>>are gonna really build some serious muscles with this pile of books
>>>everyday!"  He just laughed and handed me half the books.
>>>>
>>>> Over the next four years, Kyle and I became best friends. When we were
>>>> seniors, we began to think about college. Kyle decided on Georgetown,
>and
>>I was going to Duke. I knew that we would always be friends, that the
miles
>>>would never be a problem. He was going to be a doctor, and I was going
for
>>>business on a football scholarship.
>>>>
>>>> Kyle was valedictorian of our class. I teased him all the time about
>>being a nerd. He had to prepare a speech for graduation. I was so glad it
>>wasn't
>>me having to get up there and speak.
>>>>
>>>> Graduation day, I saw Kyle. He looked great. He was one of those guys
>>that really found himself during high school. He filled out and actually
>>looked
>>>good in glasses. He had more dates than me and all the girls loved him!
>>Boy, sometimes I was jealous. Today was one of those days.
>>>>
>>>I could see that he was nervous about his speech. So, I smacked him on
the
>>>back and said, "Hey, big guy, you'll be great!" He looked at me with one
>of
>>>those looks (the really grateful one) and smiled. "Thanks," he said.
>>>>
>>>> As he started his speech, he cleared his throat, and began. "Graduation
>>is a time to thank those who helped you make it through those tough years.
>>Your parents, your teachers, your siblings, maybe a coach... but mostly
>>your
>>>friends. I am here to tell all of you that being a friend to someone is
>the
>>>best gift you can give them. I am going to tell you a story."
>>>>
>>>> I just looked at my friend with disbelief as he told the story of the
>>first day we met. He had planned to kill himself over the weekend. He
>talked
>>of
>>how he had cleaned out his locker so his mom wouldn't have to do it later
>>and
>>was carrying his stuff home. He looked hard at me and gave me a little
>>smile.
>>>"Thankfully, I was saved. My friend saved me from doing the unspeakable."
>>I heard the gasp go through the crowd as this handsome, popular boy told
us
>>all about his weakest moment. I saw his mom and dad looking at me and
>>smiling
>>>that same grateful smile. Not until that moment did I realize it's depth.
>>>
>>>Never underestimate the power of your actions. With one small gesture you
>>can change a person's life.  God places us in each other's lives to effect
>>>another in some way. Look for God in others.
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>

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From owner-glass Sat Jan  8 20:29:38 2000
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X-Path: aol.com!gfc20002
From: gfc20002@aol.com
To: babyboomer203@hotmail.com
Subject: Reverse Aging 10 To 20 Years
Date: Sat, 8 Jan 2000 23:05:29 -0500
Message-ID: <200001090405.XAA02979@howa.lib.md.us>
Precedence: bulk


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Anti-Aging Counselor


****** We apologize if you are not interested in medical news. The Internet is the fastest method of distributing this type of timely medical information. If you wish to have your e-mail address deleted from our scientific update database, DO NOT USE THE REPLY BUTTON. Simply click here - http://650814153/   -- and select the unsubscribe button at the top right side of the page.



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From owner-glass Sun Jan  9 16:03:54 2000
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X-Path: home.com!wwstamps
From: Sharon Milliken <wwstamps@home.com>
To: "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: IGGA
Date: Sun, 09 Jan 2000 17:33:52 -0500
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Can anyone outin bungiland tell me why I can't access the IGGA website??
Are they experiencing some problem? All I get is some nasty little
aplet. Thanks! Sharon
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From owner-glass Sun Jan  9 17:44:09 2000
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From: "synergyglass" <seaspray@island.net>
To: "Sharon Milliken" <wwstamps@home.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: IGGA
Date: Sun, 9 Jan 2000 16:19:02 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Hi Sharon,

The igga site was hit by hackers.  Christie told me on Friday that they
expected to have it back up on Saturday.  Guess they all took the weekend
off.  I'm anxious to have it back also.

Any word, Christie?

Carol Swann
Synergy Glass & Creative
www.igga.org/synergy
seaspray@island.net
----- Original Message -----
From: Sharon Milliken <wwstamps@home.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 09, 2000 2:33 PM
Subject: IGGA


> Can anyone outin bungiland tell me why I can't access the IGGA website??
> Are they experiencing some problem? All I get is some nasty little
> aplet. Thanks! Sharon
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>


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From owner-glass Sun Jan  9 18:05:44 2000
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X-Path: home.com!wwstamps
From: Sharon Milliken <wwstamps@home.com>
To: "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: wierd things happening
Date: Sun, 09 Jan 2000 20:37:35 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Dave, you may be interested in this! A while ago when I posted a message
to bungi about IGGA someone named Marinell was in a stained glass
pattern website and got my e-mail. She said she didn't even know what
Bungi was. She didn't say which website but I still have her e-mail if
you want to investigate further.Sharon
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From owner-glass Sun Jan  9 18:49:59 2000
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X-Path: compuserve.com!GreerStudios
From: Dani Greer <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: IGGA
Date: Sun, 9 Jan 2000 21:25:59 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Message text written by Sharon Milliken
>Can anyone outin bungiland tell me why I can't access the IGGA website??=

Are they experiencing some problem? All I get is some nasty little
aplet. Thanks! Sharon<

We had a hacker and are in the process of moving
the site to a new server... should be up again next
week.  Can you imagine anyone being so bored, they
have to hack an innocuous little glass site???????
Glad you noticed, though.... was beginning to think
nobody ever visited the IGGA website.  You're only
the fifth person to mention it was missing!!!  Guess
we had better make it a little more exciting for the
members so we get more complaints when it's down!
ROFLO.

Cheers,

Dani Greer
Greer Gallery & Studios
IGGA Treasurer
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From owner-glass Sun Jan  9 20:04:53 2000
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X-Path: aol.com!Kauriee
From: Kauriee@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: More lead questions
Date: Sun, 9 Jan 2000 22:52:11 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Now for some more lead questions.
I have successfully mastered cutting larger sized leads thanks to all the 
suggestions from the very helpful Bungians.  Now, can someone please tell me 
how to bend the larger sizes without kinking them? 
Thank you again in advance!
Kauriee
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From owner-glass Mon Jan 10 03:53:52 2000
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X-Path: aol.com!SGriffiSBG
From: SGriffiSBG@aol.com
To: Kauriee@aol.com, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: plating question
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 06:45:35 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

hi-need some advice/information

Am making items that children will handle and thought I would investigate 
plating etc.(new at sg)  If any of you have information/sites etc. I can 
access I would appreciate it.  thanks in advance
Shirley g.
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From owner-glass Mon Jan 10 09:27:17 2000
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To: glass@bungi.com
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Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 08:51:47 -0800 (PST)
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I haven't recieved any mail for about a week now...Help!!





_______________________________________________________
Visit Excite Shopping at http://shopping.excite.com 
 The fastest way to find your Holiday gift this season

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From owner-glass Mon Jan 10 11:29:05 2000
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: SGriffiSBG@aol.com
Subject: Re: plating question
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 18:52:30 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk

Don't bother plating,  fuse it instead.
Steve
In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, SGriffiSBG@aol.com writes
>hi-need some advice/information
>
>Am making items that children will handle and thought I would investigate 
>plating etc.(new at sg)  If any of you have information/sites etc. I can 
>access I would appreciate it.  thanks in advance
>Shirley g.
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Mon Jan 10 11:35:53 2000
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Kauriee@aol.com
Subject: Tight radius for broad lead (was:More lead questions)
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 18:32:05 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk

The degree of bend possible is directly proportionate to the width of
the lead and whether it is flat or round.  Round lead will form a
smaller radius than flat, size for size.

It is the nature of the material which requires shallow curves for wide
lead and allows tight curves for narrow lead.  It is one of the things
to make use of in designing.

However,  If you want to appear to bend broad leads in a very tight
radius, you can use a narrow lead to do the leading.  Then add strips of
lead to the in and out side of the curve.  You do this by cutting the
heart out of the narrow lead, smoothing the resulting two leaves and
bend them to fit the curve.  Then solder at the ends and sweat solder to
the "real" came.  Some would suggest doing this after all other
soldering and finishing is completed. 

Steve

In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, Kauriee@aol.com writes
>Now for some more lead questions.
>I have successfully mastered cutting larger sized leads thanks to all the 
>suggestions from the very helpful Bungians.  Now, can someone please tell me 
>how to bend the larger sizes without kinking them? 
>Thank you again in advance!
>Kauriee
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Mon Jan 10 13:53:45 2000
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X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: IGGA web site
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 16:31:02 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Message text written by Sharon Milliken
>Can anyone outin bungiland tell me why I can't access the IGGA website??=

Are they experiencing some problem? All I get is some nasty little
aplet. Thanks! Sharon<

As several of you by now have noticed, the IGGA web site has recently
experienced a HACKER doing some junk to the web site.  Not to worry.

The IGGA web site is backed up off-site, and is right now in the process
of changing to another internet server provider, and is being restored
from the backup files.  We expect to be back up and running hack-free
within the next couple of days.

My thanks to Tim Atwood for being our IGGA backup man!!!  And my
thanks to "Art On View" (http://www.artonview.com) for being the new
IGGA server.

Christie A. Wood-IGGA Exec.Director
Art Glass Ensembles
North Wales, PA USA
----
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From owner-glass Mon Jan 10 15:07:28 2000
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X-Path: bellsouth.net!ladona
From: Donna Helms <ladona@bellsouth.net>
To: Sharon Milliken <wwstamps@home.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: wierd things happening
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 17:49:31 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

This is weird.  Ever since I signed on to receive mailings from bungi.com,
I've gotten eveybody and their brother's e-mail.
Donna

Sharon Milliken wrote:

> Dave, you may be interested in this! A while ago when I posted a message
> to bungi about IGGA someone named Marinell was in a stained glass
> pattern website and got my e-mail. She said she didn't even know what
> Bungi was. She didn't say which website but I still have her e-mail if
> you want to investigate further.Sharon
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

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From owner-glass Mon Jan 10 15:38:34 2000
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X-Path: soltec.net!tamis
From: "Tami Siddens" <tamis@soltec.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: Bungi Archive - General Amnesty
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 17:21:14 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Thanks to you both - Chris and Jim.  I know I for one was totally
overwhelmed by the pure mass of emails, what a learning experience!  To
quote a lovely elder I know, "There will be stars in your crown".  Tami

Tami Siddens
Envision Success
Professional Coaching/Consulting Services
Member International Coach Federation
tamis@soltec.net

Attract an extraordinary life!

"Just don't give up trying to do what you really want to do. Where there is
love and inspiration, I don't think you can go wrong." - Ella Fitzgerald





-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Kaiser <christkaiser@yahoo.com>
To: Awbaxter@aol.com <Awbaxter@aol.com>; bungivols@yahoo.com
<bungivols@yahoo.com>; embee@mediaone.net <embee@mediaone.net>;
bobdu@prodigy.net <bobdu@prodigy.net>; gonzalj@freenet.tlh.fl.us
<gonzalj@freenet.tlh.fl.us>; jazzykid@tir.com <jazzykid@tir.com>;
kseeglass@netzero.net <kseeglass@netzero.net>; tifstyorig@juno.com
<tifstyorig@juno.com>; CncptThnkr@aol.com <CncptThnkr@aol.com>;
rballard@icsp.net <rballard@icsp.net>; shigbee@mtcon.net
<shigbee@mtcon.net>; brian.shepherd@ukonline.co.uk
<brian.shepherd@ukonline.co.uk>; tamis@soltec.net <tamis@soltec.net>
Date: Monday, January 10, 2000 5:01 PM
Subject: Re: Bungi Archive - General Amnesty


>Anne,
>
>Thank you!
>
>I also wanted to take this opportunity to give my
>heartfelt and warm thanks to Jim. Some of you may know
>I started a new job in the beginning of November,
>since that time I have had to put the Bungi project on
>the back burner. Jim has totally stepped up to the
>plate and taken responsibility, with good humor, and
>without complaint. I am extremely grateful. 8D
>All that has been done since that time was done solely
>by Jim, and I know its been no small amount of work!
>*hearty applause for Jim!!!*
>My grateful thanks,
>Chris
>__________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
>Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
>http://im.yahoo.com
>


----
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From owner-glass Mon Jan 10 15:55:39 2000
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X-Path: island.net!seaspray
From: "synergyglass" <seaspray@island.net>
To: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: IGGA web site
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 15:21:50 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Hi Christie

Glad to hear it's getting solved slowly but surely.  Here's an important
question since I have over 1000 cards out with my web site as
www.igga.org/synergy.   Please, please, please tell me that the web site
addy will be the same.

Carol Swann
Synergy Glass & Creative
www.igga.org/synergy
seaspray@island.net
----- Original Message -----
From: Christie A. Wood <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Monday, January 10, 2000 1:31 PM
Subject: IGGA web site


> Message text written by Sharon Milliken
> >Can anyone outin bungiland tell me why I can't access the IGGA website??=
>
> Are they experiencing some problem? All I get is some nasty little
> aplet. Thanks! Sharon<
>
> As several of you by now have noticed, the IGGA web site has recently
> experienced a HACKER doing some junk to the web site.  Not to worry.
>
> The IGGA web site is backed up off-site, and is right now in the process
> of changing to another internet server provider, and is being restored
> from the backup files.  We expect to be back up and running hack-free
> within the next couple of days.
>
> My thanks to Tim Atwood for being our IGGA backup man!!!  And my
> thanks to "Art On View" (http://www.artonview.com) for being the new
> IGGA server.
>
> Christie A. Wood-IGGA Exec.Director
> Art Glass Ensembles
> North Wales, PA USA
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>

----
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From owner-glass Mon Jan 10 16:28:08 2000
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X-Path: compuserve.com!GreerStudios
From: Dani Greer <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: IGGA web site
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 19:01:05 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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And my thanks to Christie Wood, Executive
Director of the International Guild of Glass
Artists for handling the situation so quickly
and professionally.  Am looking forward to
seeing the IGGA site up and running again
soon and even more so to the exciting changes!

Thanks Christie!

Best regards,

Dani Greer
Greer Gallery & Studios
IGGA Treasurer
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From owner-glass Mon Jan 10 17:07:03 2000
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X-Path: juno.com!mschatee
From: mschatee@juno.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Wedding Picture Frame
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 19:48:44 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Would any of you out there in Bungiland happen to have a picture frame
pattern or picture of a picture frame that would be appropriate for a
Wedding Gift.  I am going to a wedding this Saturday coming up (nothing
like waiting to the last minute) so I would have to have a pattern by
Thursday at least.

Thanks in advance, I have faith that someone will come through for me.

Caren

________________________________________________________________
YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET!
Juno now offers FREE Internet Access!
Try it today - there's no risk!  For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
----
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From owner-glass Mon Jan 10 17:26:44 2000
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From: SGriffiSBG@aol.com
To: s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: plating question
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 20:15:48 EST
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what is fusing?
----
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From owner-glass Mon Jan 10 18:57:13 2000
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X-Path: ComCAT.COM!suzy
From: suzy <suzy@ComCAT.COM>
To: "glass bungi line" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Question about Large Door Construction - Help Please!!!
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 21:37:58 -0500
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Greetings Friends,

My partners and I have been approached about constructing a wine-cellar 
door. 

There will be a mahogany door constructed; size of opening for glass is 
still up in the air, but I'll assume it's going to be on the order of 30 
inches wide by 70 inches deep. The wine cellar itself will be kept around 
50 degrees F., the basement in which it is located will probably be kept 
around 68-70 degrees.

I had hoped we could construct the panel and have it lay flush with 
another piece of plate glass behind it. However the door manufacturer 
said he would be wanting at least 5/8 inch between the two layers for 
insulation purposes, so there goes my hopes for additional strengthening.

To make matters more complicated, the owners want a design only on the 
left one-third, around the top, and going to the bottom on the right, of 
grapes and vines. This is to leave space to see a mural painted on the 
wall behind the door. They are adamant about not wanting anything else in 
the whole door but plain glass - not a solder line or rebar anywhere!

I don't see how this can be doable unless we make an overlay only of the 
grapes and vines, attaching it to the one piece of plate glass installed 
in the door.

Any thoughts/help/counseling would be greatly appreciated!

Suzanne
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From owner-glass Mon Jan 10 21:36:23 2000
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X-Path: aol.com!Kauriee
From: Kauriee@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Picture frames
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2000 00:23:14 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

This isn't really a picture frame pattern, but something that I do all the 
time for wedding gifts.  I get a wonderful response from it as well! (not to 
mention, some business sometimes too!)
Take the wedding invitation and trim it to fit a 4x6, 5x7 or oval bevel.   
"Sandwich" the invitation in between the bevel and a piece of clear glass. 
(pressed flowers in the corners make a nice touch too.) Use wide copperfoil 
to wrap both pieces of glass together. Cut thin strips (1/2") of colored 
glass that match the colors in the invitation to make a border around the 
bevel. Solder. Frame with 1/8" zinc came. Clean. (Be careful not to get it 
too wet, as it is not waterproof and moisture can get in-between the two 
pieces if you are not careful. You can put the picture frame back board on it 
to make it stand up, or  you can hang it.  You can also make it two sided 
(hinged in the middle) and make one side of it the invitation, and the other 
side a blank picture frame for the wedding photo.
This is SO SIMPLE and quick!
Hope this helps!
Kauriee

Would any of you out there in Bungiland happen to have a picture frame
pattern or picture of a picture frame that would be appropriate for a
Wedding Gift.  I am going to a wedding this Saturday coming up (nothing
like waiting to the last minute) so I would have to have a pattern by
Thursday at least.

Thanks in advance, I have faith that someone will come through for me.

Caren
----
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From owner-glass Tue Jan 11 00:44:31 2000
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X-Path: post.com!spy2
From: spy2@post.com
To: Friend@public.com
Subject: INTERNET SPY
Date: Tue, 09 Nov 99 23:07:31 EST
Message-ID: <200001110821.JAA07695@www1.mclink.it>
Precedence: bulk

////////////////////////////////////////
 One time mailing, no need for removal.
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From owner-glass Tue Jan 11 11:32:17 2000
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X-Path: inter-prog.co.uk!alan
From: "Alan Faiers" <alan@inter-prog.co.uk>
To: "Glass@Bungi.Com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Info. needed - Lovers Beneath a Waterfall...
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2000 18:52:48 -0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

I recall that, some months ago, someone here mentioned in passing a
well-known (?) picture of two lovers beneath a waterfall. I'm about to
embark on building an en-suite bathroom, and wonder if it might make the
basis for a SG shower screen design.
Anyone know where I might find any Information about this picture?
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Alan


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From owner-glass Tue Jan 11 11:42:29 2000
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X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: summer jobs available for s.g. artists
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2000 14:10:47 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hi folk.  I'm passing this along, since it came into the IGGA email.
I've heard of this group.  They've been doing this international summer
camp for years.  In fact, a couple of years ago I considered applying
for the position.

Christie A. Wood-IGGA Exec.Director
Art Glass Ensembles
North Wales, PA USA

-------------Forwarded Message-----------------

From:	INTERNET:summer@hiddenvalleycamp.com, INTERNET:summer@hiddenvalleyc=
amp.com
To:	[unknown], INTERNET:members@igga.org

Date:	12/10/1999  7:37 AM
RE:	summer jobs
 =

Hello. I would like to post the following on bulletin - jobs boards or
in a college jobs newsletter

Please let me know if you are able to do this ...

Thank you
Ellen L. Freeman
----------------------------
STAINED GLASS ARTISTS WANTED

We look for mature, creative, independent people who possess interesting
backgrounds and previous experience with children. Counselors teach or
assist 4 workshops daily in areas that include waterfront (lake and
pool), farm animal and llama care, English riding, crafts (including
stained glass and pottery), B & W photography, theater, dance, guitar,
sports, mountain biking, ropes course, and other outdoor activities.
Counselors also live in a cabin with 1 or 2 other counselors and share
responsibility for the care of a group of campers.
--
    HIDDEN VALLEY CAMP
    Freedom, Maine 04941
    Peter & Meg Kassen - Directors

    An International Children's Community for Over 50 Years

       Email: summer@hiddenvalleycamp.com

       Phone: 800-922-6737
       From Overseas: 207-342-5177
       Fax: 207-342-5685








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From owner-glass Tue Jan 11 12:02:10 2000
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From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/mixed;
Subject: Glass Art Society Conference
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2000 14:11:20 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

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Hi again folk.  Here's a press release from the Glass Art Society
about the upcoming conference.

Christie A. Wood-IGGA Exec.Director
-------------Forwarded Message-----------------
From:	Glass Art Society, INTERNET:cynthiasharp@earthlink.net
To:	[unknown], INTERNET:members@igga.org
Date:	12/15/1999  5:37 PM
RE:	Glass Art Society Conference

Contact: Penny Berk, Executive Director
Cynthia Sharp, Communications Director  206-382-1305
----------------------------------------------------
FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE
Glass Art Society to hold its 30th Annual Conference
Bridge to the Future
June 8-11, 2000
 in Brooklyn, New York
hosted by UrbanGlass and Long Island University
=85 Pre-Conference Brochure, with program and registration information, i=
s
now available from the Glass Art Society.
=85 Registration begins January 15, 2000.
The largest gathering of glass artists ever recorded will convene in
Brooklyn, New York for the 30th anniversary conference of the Glass Art
Society.  Four days of demonstrations, lectures, panels, exhibitions,
workshops, tours, technical display, and parties will provide 2,000 artis=
ts
and glass enthusiasts from around the world the opportunity to learn, and=

share ideas, experience and technical innovations. Founded in 1971 by a
handful of artist/educators who wanted to exchange information and ideas
about the new technologies available, G.A.S. membership has grown to over=

2,500 and includes members from 45 countries.
THE CONFERENCE PROGRAM
=46rom Thursday's Opening Ceremonies in the Brooklyn Museum of Art and th=
e
Brooklyn Botanic Gardens to the Millennium Marbles Mania Tournament on
Sunday, conference goers can expect non-stop activity.  Glassworking
demonstrations take place at UrbanGlass's 17,000 square foot facility in
the mornings, while lectures, panel discussions, Technical Display, the
Education Center and more take place in the afternoons at Long Island
University.  Lectures include topics as varied as Roman Glass: Window Int=
o
An Ancient World; Glass Seals and Thermal Expansion Compatibility; Forged=

Glass Figurines and The Structure of Transparency.  Panel discussions
include Art Dealers in the Hot Seat; Blowpipe for Hire; Critics and
Curators Look at Glass, and Emerging Artists, while demonstrations cover
glassworking techniques such as lampworking, casting and blowing.  Please=

see page 3 for list of participating demonstrators, lecturers and panelis=
ts.

NEW FEATURES THIS YEAR
The always-popular Education Center has grown so much it has been divided=

into two parts: The Student Center and the Resource Room.  The Student
Center will allow students currently enrolled (or interested) in glass
programs the opportunity to meet and exchange information on schools,
scholarships and other items of interest.  The Resource Room will emphasi=
ze
career and continuing education issues for the "lifetime student", with a=

focus on individuals not enrolled in a formal program.   The Student
Auction, another new feature, will include works by G.A.S. Student member=
s.
Funds raised from the Auction will offset Student Center expenses and hel=
p
subsidize low student fees.

G.A.S. AUCTIONS
In addition to the Student Auction (see above), the Annual Auction and th=
e
Goblet Grab allow conference participants the chance to purchase unique
works of art while supporting the Glass Art Society.  A portion of procee=
ds
from the Goblet Grab go to the Craft Emergency Relief Fund, a non-profit
organization.  The Annual Auction is open to the public ($50 per ticket;
contact G.A.S. for more information.)

TECHNICAL DISPLAY
The always-popular Technical Display gives attendees the chance to browse=

and purchase glass-related materials and supplies.  With 60 booths, the
2000 Tech Display will be the largest in G.A.S.'s history.

EXHIBITIONS
Galleries and museums throughout New York will mount glass-related shows =
in
conjunction with the G.A.S. Conference. The American Craft Museum shows
work by Sandy Skoglund that includes glass dragonflies; Bard Center for
Graduate Studies in the Decorative Arts features Roman Glass: Reflections=

of Everyday Life, curated by Dr. Stuart J. Fleming of the University of
Pennsylvania;  the Brooklyn Museum of Art has a local focus with Explorin=
g
the Museum: 12 Artists Working at UrbanGlass; The International Student
Exhibition takes place at Long Island University's Triangle Gallery; The
Brooklyn Botanic Garden houses Glass Flowers by Paul Stankard: A Tribute =
to
Walt Whitman.  D.U.M.B.O. Art Center highlights large scale glass
installations and sculptures.  The Friday Night Gallery Hop features more=

than a dozen gallery openings in Manhattan and Brooklyn,  offering
attendees the rare opportunity to view multiple glass exhibitions in one
evening.  See attached for Exhibition details.

TOURS AND TOURNAMENTS
A tour of Greenwich Village Stained Glass Windows and a behind-the-scenes=

tour of the Metropolitan Museum of Art's glass collection are two of the
special fundraising events offered in addition to the regular conference
program to those who wish to extend their conference experience.   The
Millennium Marbles Mania Tournament at Wollman Rink in Prospect Park is
expected to be the world's largest!

WORKSHOPS
Conference goers can make the most of their trip to New York by attending=

Pre- and Post-Conference Workshops.  Held at UrbanGlass in Brooklyn, thes=
e
workshops offer hands-on experience in a variety of glassworking
techniques, from beginning to advanced.  Among the workshops offered are
Kilnforming: Beyond the Basics; Techniques in Furnace-Blown Beads;
Beginning Glassblowing; The Lampwork/Neon/Blowing Connection and The
Figure: Painted and Sculpted.  For more information on workshops and
classes, contact Beth Lipman, UrbanGlass Education Director directly at
718-625-3685 x237; E-Mail urbaned@aol.com.

AWARD RECIPIENTS; KEYNOTE AND LABINO LECTURERS
Lifetime Achievement Award: Klaus Moje
Honorary Lifetime Membership: Ginny Ruffner
Keynote Speaker: Jamie Carpenter: The Structure of Transparency
Labino Lecturer: Henry E. Hagy: Glass Seals and Thermal Expansion Compati=
bility

ARTISTS AND LECTURERS

 Demonstrating Artists as of 12/13/99
Hank Murta Adams
Lucio Bubacco
Suzanne Charbonnet
Scott  Chaseling
John Drury
Mark Ferguson
Suellen Fowler
Hans-Godo Fr=E4bel
Katherine  Gray
Dante Marioni
Robbie Miller
Janis Miltenberger
James Minson
Klaus Moje
Jim Mongrain
Jay Musler
Pike Powers
The Bead Project
Paul Stankard
Jeff Zimmerman

Lecturers and Panelists as of 12/13/99
Arlon Bayliss
Magdalena Campos-Pons
James Carpenter, James Carpenter Design Assoc., Inc.
John Christie
Arthur Danto
Stuart J. Fleming
Glass Axis Studio
Henry  E. Hagy
Douglas Heller, Heller Gallery
Carole Hochman, Barry Friedman Gallery
Dinah Hulet
Adam Kamens, Hot Soup Studio
Joy Kelley
Michael Krumrine
Kim Levin
Beth Lipman, UrbanGlass
Brett Littman, UrbanGlass
Bonita Marx, Marx-Saunders Gallery
Thomas McEvilley
David Medina
Klaus Moje
Chris Mount, Museum of Modern Art
Kathleen Mulcahy, Pittsburgh Glass Ctr
Shaelene Murray
Dennis Oppenheim
Justin Parker
Shital Pattani, Staffordshire Univ., UK
John Perreault, UrbanGlass
Judy Pfaff
Public Glass Studio
Narcissus Quagliata
Monona Rossol, A.C.T.S.
Ginny Ruffner
Ruth Shortt
Lowery  Sims, Metropolitan Museum of Art
Robert Storr, Museum of Modern Art
Ruth T. Summers
Lawry Swidler
Louis Thompson, Staffordshire Univ., UK
Richard Whiteley

 The Glass Art Society (G.A.S.) is a non-profit organization of artists,
educators, historians, students, collectors, critics, manufacturers and
others interested and involved in the production, technology and aestheti=
cs
of glass.
Each year G.A.S. holds an Annual Conference, publishes the annual G.A.S.
Journal, bi-monthly G.A.S. Newsletter, and annual Membership and Educatio=
n
Roster.  The Administrative office in Seattle, Washington, constantly
fields contemporary glass-related questions. An active web site
(www.glassart.org) provides ongoing information, conference, membership a=
nd
registration forms,  and categorized links to members' web sites.
For photos or more information, contact the Glass Art Society at:
Tel: 206-382-1305; fax 206-382-2630; E-mail: glassartsoc@earthlink.net,
Web: www.glassart.org
1305 Fourth Ave. #711, Seattle, WA  98101-2401 USA=

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From owner-glass Tue Jan 11 12:38:06 2000
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X-Path: aisl.bc.ca!atwoods
From: "Tim & Adriana Atwood" <atwoods@aisl.bc.ca>
To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>, "suzy" <suzy@ComCAT.COM>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Question about Large Door Construction - Help Please!!!
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2000 12:10:21 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<200001110236.VAA15302@smu0102.ComCAT.COM>>
Precedence: bulk

Look at a door I made at http://www.holtenwood.bc.ca/hostud2.htm
(construction detail at http://www.holtenwood.bc.ca/hostud5.htm ).  It is
different than what you describe, but I think it may have some solutions to
some of the construction problems you are describing.  It has double layered
glass (1/2 inch spacing).  One layer is simple copper foil work.  The other
has no foil lines (it is colored, but it could just as easily be plain glass
as you describe).  For what you are describing there would be more glass and
less wood in the overall design also.  Plus it sounds like the woodwork is
being done by another company which may have other specific methods they
want to use.

If after looking at the door and reading the construction descriptions, you
feel any of what I did would be useful in your design, I can give more
detail on the construction methods.

If the client wants true double paned hermetically sealed glass for
insulation, then you may need to do something different than what I did in
the door above.  I have thought about different possibilities for this in
the past, but I have not actually done them.  The general idea would be to
start with two plain sheets of glass the final size for the glass portion of
the door.  The design would then be rendered onto one of the sheets (or
possibly both) with either etching, fused (kilned) glass paints or
chemically bonded coloured glass or some combination of these.  The finished
sheets would then be taken to a window manufacturer for standard spacing and
sealing just as if it was any other custom hermetically sealed double pane
window.

One possible problem with this method that I have not researched is building
codes and the maximum size and minimum height off the ground for
non-tempered glass.  Many building codes require any single sheet of glass
over a certain size and/or extending below a certain minimum height above
the ground to be tempered.  I have no idea if glass paint would survive the
tempering process and I sincerely doubt chemical bonding could.  Though I
suppose chemical bonding could be done on already tempered glass (kiln
temperatures for glass paints would remove the tempering of already tempered
glass I would think).  Anyway, this would need to be looked into.

Good luck.  It sounds like you have a really interesting design problem
here.  I will be interested to know what you come up with.

----- Original Message -----
From: suzy <suzy@ComCAT.COM>
To: glass bungi line <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Monday, January 10, 2000 6:37 PM
Subject: Question about Large Door Construction - Help Please!!!


> <snip>
>
> My partners and I have been approached about constructing a wine-cellar
> door.
>
> <snip>
>
> Any thoughts/help/counseling would be greatly appreciated!
>
> Suzanne
> ----
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From owner-glass Tue Jan 11 13:10:01 2000
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From: Brad Walker <mbwalker@mail.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Bettina Eberle book
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2000 15:42:32 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Does there happen to be anyone on the list who speaks German and/or lives in Germany?

I've identified the German edition (original language) of Bettina Eberle's Glass Fusing book (Faszination Glas, 1997) and am trying to locate someone who can find a copy and see if it has any information about a source for the materials used in the book.

(Long shot, I know, but long shots sometimes come in.)

Brad Walker
______________________________________________
FREE Personalized Email at Mail.com
Sign up at http://www.mail.com?sr=mc.mk.mcm.tag001

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From owner-glass Tue Jan 11 14:08:24 2000
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Tim & Adriana Atwood <atwoods@aisl.bc.ca>
Subject: Re: Question about Large Door Construction - Help Please!!!
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2000 21:32:16 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk

If you want to paint and temper at the same time there are two kinds of
colour you can use.  In one case you use high temperature curing inks
(750 degrees C) or on-glaze ceramic paints which cure between 720 to 780
degrees C.  Both these are in the tempering heat range.

Steve

In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, Tim & Adriana Atwood <atwoods@aisl.bc.ca>
writes
...cut.....
>  I have no idea if glass paint would survive the
>tempering process and I sincerely doubt chemical bonding could.  Though I
>suppose chemical bonding could be done on already tempered glass (kiln
>temperatures for glass paints would remove the tempering of already tempered
>glass I would think).  Anyway, this would need to be looked into.

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Tue Jan 11 15:47:41 2000
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From: Dani Greer <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: Everyone <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: How much do you pay?
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2000 18:03:52 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hi all -

I'm just wondering.... when you hire help, how
much do you pay an experienced glass worker?
I never pay less than $10 hour because I =

sub-contract the work (don't want any extra
bodies in my work space!), so I usually end up
with pretty experienced workers with their own
work space.  I've been kind of surprised at the
low wages around the country.... would also be
interested in hearing from the international
crowd.  How about piecework?  Do any of you
charge by the job?

Ya know, I don't think we've ever talked about
this on bungi that I remember......

Best regards,

Dani Greer
Greer Gallery & Studios
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From owner-glass Tue Jan 11 16:09:57 2000
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From: Dani Greer <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: suzy <suzy@ComCAT.COM>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Question about Large Door Construction - Help Please!!!
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2000 18:25:59 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Suzanne,

Can't the door just be fitted with an insulated unit,
then the stained glass be retro-fit?  As far as the
stained glass design itself, can you do a straight
border on three sides with the grapevine pattern
contained within?.... then use only one piece of
clear plate as your center piece of glass.  In other
words, build a panel that fits the opening with the
center being clear plate glass.  Maybe just =

"cornerettes" would satisfy the customer, and if
this were my job, I might also suggest sandblast
to the customer.  It's not a huge challenge, though,
because of the environment.... the window won't =

be subjected to a lot of heat or wind sheer, and
the large center piece of plate glass will lend a =

lot of stability to the panel.

Good luck,

Dani Greer
Greer Gallery & Studios
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From owner-glass Tue Jan 11 17:32:40 2000
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: Everyone <glass@bungi.com>, Dani Greer <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: How much do you pay?
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 01:01:42 -0000
Message-ID: <200001120104.BAA28815@saturn.nildram.co.uk>
Precedence: bulk

Hi Dani,

In UK we have recently had iontroduced to us the so caslled 
"national minimum wage"; it's about 4 pounds an hour ( x 1.6 = 
USDollars). If I employ a cleaning lady to clean my hiouse, the 
expected rate is UK Sterling 5/hour; a garage mechanic charges 
about UK Sterling 20/hour; a lawyer (out in the sticks) about UK 
Sterling 60/hour. Crafts-people at fairs will find it difficult to sell their 
goods if they price them much above UKSterl.5/hour.
A stained glass charachter called "Paul ....." around Oxford area, 
who has written books, teaches and so on, charges  between 
UKSterling 3000 - 10,000 for his free-standing pieces (Which is 
why they appear at fair after fair after fair....)

So if you go for sub-contracting in USA, I would say that you would 
not expect to get a decent job done, below USD 10 - 15 per hour. 
Pay per piece...hmmmm... don't think so. But I DO believe in 
deducting monies for a shoddily executed piece. And there 
again.... I DO know  YOUR way of showing exactly what you want.
Is this any help????

Elisabeth 'n Toby in UK

> Hi all -
> 
> I'm just wondering.... when you hire help, how
> much do you pay an experienced glass worker?
> I never pay less than $10 hour because I =
> 
> sub-contract the work (don't want any extra
> bodies in my work space!), so I usually end up
> with pretty experienced workers with their own
> work space.  I've been kind of surprised at the
> low wages around the country.... would also be
> interested in hearing from the international
> crowd.  How about piecework?  Do any of you
> charge by the job?
> 
> Ya know, I don't think we've ever talked about
> this on bungi that I remember......
> 
> Best regards,
> 
> Dani Greer
> Greer Gallery & Studios
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> 


----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
----
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From owner-glass Tue Jan 11 17:38:16 2000
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From: Witchdoc3@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Info. needed - Lovers Beneath a Waterfall...
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2000 20:16:46 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk


In a message dated 1/11/00 2:32:50 PM, alan@inter-prog.co.uk writes:

>Anyone know where I might find any Information about this picture?

Yup....... it wuz me what first mentioned it. Here's where I found it:

Treasury of Art Nouveau Design and Ornament
selected by Carol Belanger Grafton
Dover Books ISBN# 0-486-24001-0
Published 1980.

I read somewhere that it was an illustration for a German art journal called 
*Jugend* (the Germans referred to their brand of Art Nouveau as 
"Jugendstil"). The artist's name is Alfred Roller.


Sparks
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From owner-glass Tue Jan 11 18:07:36 2000
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X-Path: home.com!wwstamps
From: Sharon Milliken <wwstamps@home.com>
To: Dani Greer <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>,
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: How much do you pay?
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2000 20:20:39 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Organization: @Home Network
Precedence: bulk

This is really something I'm interested in..because I do contractual
work for resale much of the time. I am told that $1 per piece of glass
manipulated is "standard" and fair. I don't know. I work for this rate
because I need the work and don't know any better. However, many of the
pieces I do are 3-D, attaching glass to "bodies". Many times I don't
make $10/hour. I will be interested to hear what others pay or charge.
Thanks for bringing it up Dani because I've been thinking about asking.
You did it nicer than I would have!
Sharon
Dani Greer wrote:
> 
> Hi all -
> 
> I'm just wondering.... when you hire help, how
> much do you pay an experienced glass worker?
> I never pay less than $10 hour because I =
> 
> sub-contract the work (don't want any extra
> bodies in my work space!), so I usually end up
> with pretty experienced workers with their own
> work space.  I've been kind of surprised at the
> low wages around the country.... would also be
> interested in hearing from the international
> crowd.  How about piecework?  Do any of you
> charge by the job?
> 
> Ya know, I don't think we've ever talked about
> this on bungi that I remember......
> 
> Best regards,
> 
> Dani Greer
> Greer Gallery & Studios
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
----
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From owner-glass Tue Jan 11 19:05:43 2000
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From: alipearson@webtv.net (alipea)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: How much do you pay?
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2000 21:54:10 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

We just started selling SG a few months ago and weve been talking to our
friends (2 who've been in the business for 20 yrs or so) 1 says when
pricing a piece - its $3 per piece for a friend & 5 per piece for
strangers.  Our other friend says it should be $5 friends / $8
strangers.  So basically we are a bit confused.

We live near NYC.  We've made a few custom pieces 42 pieces 10" x11" and
we charged $180 per suncatcher.  Does that sound correct?

Ali

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From owner-glass Tue Jan 11 20:34:49 2000
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From: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@ix.netcom.com>
To: Toby <toby@northlights.co.uk>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: How much do you pay?
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2000 20:05:29 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<200001120104.BAA28815@saturn.nildram.co.uk>>
Precedence: bulk

Means I work for dirt! :o)

Toby wrote:
> 
> Hi Dani,
> 
> In UK we have recently had iontroduced to us the so caslled
> "national minimum wage"; it's about 4 pounds an hour ( x 1.6 =
> USDollars). If I employ a cleaning lady to clean my hiouse, the
> expected rate is UK Sterling 5/hour; a garage mechanic charges
> about UK Sterling 20/hour; a lawyer (out in the sticks) about UK
> Sterling 60/hour. Crafts-people at fairs will find it difficult to sell their
> goods if they price them much above UKSterl.5/hour.
> A stained glass charachter called "Paul ....." around Oxford area,
> who has written books, teaches and so on, charges  between
> UKSterling 3000 - 10,000 for his free-standing pieces (Which is
> why they appear at fair after fair after fair....)
> 
> So if you go for sub-contracting in USA, I would say that you would
> not expect to get a decent job done, below USD 10 - 15 per hour.
> Pay per piece...hmmmm... don't think so. But I DO believe in
> deducting monies for a shoddily executed piece. And there
> again.... I DO know  YOUR way of showing exactly what you want.
> Is this any help????
> 
> Elisabeth 'n Toby in UK
> 
> > Hi all -
> >
> > I'm just wondering.... when you hire help, how
> > much do you pay an experienced glass worker?
> > I never pay less than $10 hour because I =
> >
> > sub-contract the work (don't want any extra
> > bodies in my work space!), so I usually end up
> > with pretty experienced workers with their own
> > work space.  I've been kind of surprised at the
> > low wages around the country.... would also be
> > interested in hearing from the international
> > crowd.  How about piecework?  Do any of you
> > charge by the job?
> >
> > Ya know, I don't think we've ever talked about
> > this on bungi that I remember......
> >
> > Best regards,
> >
> > Dani Greer
> > Greer Gallery & Studios
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> >
> 
> ----
> As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
> North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
> http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm
> ----
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
----
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 12 03:31:12 2000
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From: "Alan Faiers" <support@inter-prog.co.uk>
To: "Glass@Bungi.Com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE: Info. needed - Lovers Beneath a Waterfall...
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 11:11:13 -0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk



>Anyone know where I might find any Information about this picture?

Yup....... it wuz me what first mentioned it. Here's where I found it:

Treasury of Art Nouveau Design and Ornament
selected by Carol Belanger Grafton
Dover Books ISBN# 0-486-24001-0
Published 1980.

I read somewhere that it was an illustration for a German art journal called
*Jugend* (the Germans referred to their brand of Art Nouveau as
"Jugendstil"). The artist's name is Alfred Roller.


Sparks

My local library had a copy! And they let me photocopy the page!!
Now all I have to do is turn it into a design I can manage...
It just so happens that I'm starting a new class with Elisabeth this
evening....
Thanks so much for your help.
Alan


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From owner-glass Wed Jan 12 04:00:40 2000
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X-Path: aol.com!MATRONA
From: MATRONA@aol.com
To: support@inter-prog.co.uk, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Info. needed - Lovers Beneath a Waterfall...
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 06:35:35 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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In a message dated 1/12/00 6:31:36 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
support@inter-prog.co.uk writes:

> 
>  
>  
>  >Anyone know where I might find any Information about this picture?
>  
>  Yup....... it wuz me what first mentioned it. Here's where I found it:
>  
>  Treasury of Art Nouveau Design and Ornament
>  selected by Carol Belanger Grafton
>  Dover Books ISBN# 0-486-24001-0
>  Published 1980.
>  
>  I read somewhere that it was an illustration for a German art journal 
called
>  *Jugend* (the Germans referred to their brand of Art Nouveau as
>  "Jugendstil"). The artist's name is Alfred Roller.
>  
>  
>  Sparks
>  
>  My local library had a copy! And they let me photocopy the page!!
>  Now all I have to do is turn it into a design I can manage...
>  It just so happens that I'm starting a new class with Elisabeth this
>  evening....
>  Thanks so much for your help.
>  Alan
>  
This sounds like quite a project.  I can't imagine.... Will we see the end 
result?
Anne
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 12 06:02:34 2000
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X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>, Shakeel Abedi <shakabe@pd.jaring.my>,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: IGGA web site back up
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 08:34:11 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

The IGGA web site is back up.  Thank you for your patience
while we dealt with the hacker.  The web site is now on a different
server.  My thanks again to Tim Atwood for the backup, and to
Art On View, our new web site provider.

Christie A. Wood-IGGA Exec.Director
Art Glass Ensembles
North Wales, PA USA
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 12 06:06:20 2000
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X-Path: pd.jaring.my!shakabe
From: "Shakeel Abedi" <shakabe@pd.jaring.my>
To: "bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: Fused glass and bevel work
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 21:38:49 +0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_001B_01BF5D45.69CC8180
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

    Dear Friends

I am desperately in need of some good sites with fused glass panels. I =
am trying to present some possibilities of huge fused glass panels made =
of clear glass to go as partitions to client and am finding it difficult =
to explain. I have only two days left and  not enough time to make a =
small sample piece.

Same goes to beveled doors and entryways. Clear glass, no color in it.

Anyone know of any site.

Thank you in advance.

Shakeel Abedi


------=_NextPart_000_001B_01BF5D45.69CC8180
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2919.6307" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Dear Friends</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I am desperately in need of some good sites with =
fused glass=20
panels. I am trying to present some possibilities of huge fused glass =
panels=20
made of clear glass to go as partitions to client and am finding it =
difficult to=20
explain. I have only two days left and&nbsp; not enough time to make a =
small=20
sample piece.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Same goes to beveled doors and entryways. Clear =
glass, no=20
color in it.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Anyone know of any site.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Thank you in advance.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Shakeel Abedi</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_001B_01BF5D45.69CC8180--

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From owner-glass Wed Jan 12 10:09:43 2000
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From: suzy <suzy@ComCAT.COM>
To: "glass bungi line" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: Info. needed - Lovers Beneath a Waterfall...
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 13:04:03 -0500
Message-ID: <200001121802.NAA03716@smu0102.ComCAT.COM>
Precedence: bulk

on this day you wrote:

>>  My local library had a copy! And they let me photocopy the page!!
>>  Now all I have to do is turn it into a design I can manage...
>>  It just so happens that I'm starting a new class with Elisabeth this
>>  evening....
>>  Thanks so much for your help.
>>  Alan

You're starting a class with *Elisabeth* this evening? 
God Bless You my child.
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 12 11:01:54 2000
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X-Path: gjr
From: gjr@bungi.com (Glenna Rand)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Non-Glass Related
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 10:46:11 PST
Message-ID: <m128SmZ-00005pC@daver.bungi.com>
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Hi everyone,

Just wanted to share some news with you all.
Maui must have agreed with me completely.  I came back
pregnant!
(Now to decide on some names)


-- 
Glenna Rand
gjr@bungi.com
----
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 12 12:31:36 2000
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From: Carolyn Noel <glasscat@infinet.com>
To: Glenna Rand <gjr@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Non-Glass Related
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 15:21:27 -0500
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CONGRATULATIONS, Glenna!!
Carolyn
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 12 12:41:32 2000
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X-Path: mailhost.ind.ameritech.net!diamonds2
From: Mary Austin <diamonds2@mailhost.ind.ameritech.net>
To: webmaster@delphiglass.com, artglass@SpectrumGlass.com,
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: New address
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 15:30:23 -0500
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Please start sending to my new email address as I truely miss all that
is going on.

diamonds2@ameritech.net
Mary Austin

Thanks,
Mary
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 12 13:01:27 2000
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Dani Greer <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;charset=iso-8859-1
Subject: Re: How much do you pay?
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 20:33:35 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Dani,
        I work in a collaborative studio where a number of people carry
out their own business.  We band together to do some jobs and hire one
another to help with jobs.
        The rate applicable is related to the work to be done.  Simple
assembly and finishing tasks are generally paid out at 5 pounds per hour
(national minimum wage is 3.60).,  For more sophisticated work
designing, cutting, painting etc. is usually paid on a price for the
work concerned.  E.g. I would expect to pay our most experienced painter
about £300 for a couple of square feet of painted glass (if figure work
is concerned that would be doubled).  Designing and cutting are usually
paid in relation to the value (and expected profit margin) on the main
job.  If I am supplying the materials (usually), and the sub-contracted
person is doing the whole job, I subtract 20% from the whole job and
deduct the materials costs, and offer almost all of the remainder to the
sub-contractor.  Sometimes, they don't take me up on the offer, but
mostly they do.

Steve

In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, Dani Greer <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
writes
>Hi all -
>
>I'm just wondering.... when you hire help, how
>much do you pay an experienced glass worker?
>I never pay less than $10 hour because I =
>
>sub-contract the work (don't want any extra
>bodies in my work space!), so I usually end up
>with pretty experienced workers with their own
>work space.  I've been kind of surprised at the
>low wages around the country.... would also be
>interested in hearing from the international
>crowd.  How about piecework?  Do any of you
>charge by the job?
>
>Ya know, I don't think we've ever talked about
>this on bungi that I remember......
>
>Best regards,
>
>Dani Greer
>Greer Gallery & Studios
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 12 13:15:09 2000
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X-Path: compuserve.com!GreerStudios
From: Dani Greer <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: alipea <alipearson@webtv.net>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: How much do you pay?
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 15:49:09 -0500
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Message text written by alipea
>Our other friend says it should be $5 friends / $8
strangers.  So basically we are a bit confused.<

I'd say this is closer to a price that will keep you
in business.... and think about this concept of
charging friends and family less.... why?  Does
your friend, the dentist, charge you less?  The
plumber friend?  Discounting their fees as much
as you are??  Almost 40%??  If it makes you feel
good to do this with friends and family, I would =

say 20% is adequate at the most.  Trust me, it
will keep you from feeling too much resentment
when even your dearest friends take advantage
or don't appreciate you as much as you'd like.....
trust me on this one.

Best,

Dani (who would have been out of business years
ago if she depended on her family for income...)
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 12 13:25:32 2000
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: alipea <alipearson@webtv.net>
Subject: Re: How much do you pay?
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 20:40:21 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk

But, Ali,  how much would you pay someone else to do it for you?
Would you pay 180 dollars to someone to make a 42 piece suncatcher?  or
less?  how much less?
        This is not pricing but paying others to do the work.  I find
(even) I am not willing always to pay others what I would like to be
paid.

Steve

In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, alipea <alipearson@webtv.net> writes
>We just started selling SG a few months ago and weve been talking to our
>friends (2 who've been in the business for 20 yrs or so) 1 says when
>pricing a piece - its $3 per piece for a friend & 5 per piece for
>strangers.  Our other friend says it should be $5 friends / $8
>strangers.  So basically we are a bit confused.
>
>We live near NYC.  We've made a few custom pieces 42 pieces 10" x11" and
>we charged $180 per suncatcher.  Does that sound correct?
>
>Ali
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 12 13:39:01 2000
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X-Path: compuserve.com!GreerStudios
From: Dani Greer <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: Glenna Rand <gjr@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Non-Glass Related
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 16:06:49 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Message text written by Glenna Rand
>Just wanted to share some news with you all.
Maui must have agreed with me completely.  I came back
pregnant!
(Now to decide on some names)

<
Congratulations!!  Now, before things get too =

out-of-hand, none of the names you all came up
with for little Meric can be re-cycled, understand???

I think one of my favorite Hawaiian names for a =

little girl is "Malia".  Will you add that to the list of
possibilities?

Now be careful with that glass work, Glenna!
Take some extra precautions.... =


Best regards,

Dani Greer
Greer Gallery & Studios
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 12 13:56:26 2000
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From: Dani Greer <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: How much do you pay?
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 16:06:51 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Message text written by Steve Richard
>E.g. I would expect to pay our most experienced painter
about =A3300 for a couple of square feet of painted glass (if figure work=

is concerned that would be doubled).<

When we were doing glass painting for other studios,
we started at $200 s.f. for simple painting, $250 and
up for painting with multi-firings.  And, as you say, figure
work is substantially more.  (Though, for me, detailed
architectural elements are more difficult really.)

Best regards,

Dani Greer
Greer Gallery & Studios
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 12 14:38:18 2000
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X-Path: vnet.net!thomm
From: "Tom" <thomm@vnet.net>
To: "Dani Greer" <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: How much do you pay?
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 17:17:13 -0500
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I trust you are correct, Dani.  Thanks for giving others your good
advice.

Tom

From: "Dani Greer" <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>

: Message text written by alipea
: >Our other friend says it should be $5 friends / $8
: strangers.  So basically we are a bit confused.<
:
:.................................snipped..............................
: say 20% is adequate at the most.  Trust me, it
: will keep you from feeling too much resentment
: when even your dearest friends take advantage
: or don't appreciate you as much as you'd like.....
: trust me on this one.
:
: Best,
:
: Dani (who would have been out of business years
: ago if she depended on her family for income...)


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From owner-glass Wed Jan 12 14:50:40 2000
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From: "Tom" <thomm@vnet.net>
To: "Glenna Rand" <gjr@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Non-Glass Related
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 17:20:19 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Congratulations, Glenna!

Tom in NC
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Glenna Rand" <gjr@bungi.com>

: Hi everyone,
: 
: Just wanted to share some news with you all.
: Maui must have agreed with me completely.  I came back
: pregnant!
: (Now to decide on some names)
: -- 
: Glenna Rand
: gjr@bungi.com


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From owner-glass Wed Jan 12 15:37:33 2000
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From: Tony Dutcher <glassman@esatclear.ie>
To: glass mailing list <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: A restoration question
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 22:57:45 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

I just signed up to the list and think its great...here goes my first
question:
I'm working on restoring a window made by an English studio, maybe
Powell, but I'm not sure. I have a feeling that the window could be
dated from the 1870-1900. The window is made up of 5 sections, each 53
inches by 56 inches. These are very large windows and because of the
inadequate support system they were badly damaged. The windows are made
of a tessellation of three different small shapes of glass, I have a
math problem available for those that would like to figure out the
tessellation. The shapes of glass have a low relief on them and are
painted in the relief. it appears that the  paint was over fired on
nearly all of the pieces. they were also silver stained to a lower
temperature on the smooth side of the glass. At first i believed that
the glass was cast into metal molds, there are hundreds of pieces per
panels. I tried to reproduce them by casting precut shapes into a
plaster mold. I fired kokomo (closest color match)  to 1500 F and at a
rate of 100 degrees per hour and soaked for and hour. I was unable to
get the fine detail of the original pieces. I have to replace about
thirty of the thousands of pieces. I was thinking that if i cast them
with frit i might do better, but can anyone provide some professional
hints such as how to measure displacement and some example firing
seclude with frits, i was also wondering if anyone had experimented with
a casting flux, even ceramic grade frits used to flux low fire glazes.
In the discussion of how the pieces were originally made, the
possibility of the glass being "stamped" as it came directly from a
crucible was mentioned, however i would be unable to reproduce them in
this manor. Any hints would be greatly aprecieated.
Thanks,
Tony

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From owner-glass Wed Jan 12 17:24:46 2000
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X-Path: pop3.nildram.co.uk!glass
From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: "glass bungi line" <glass@bungi.com>, suzy <suzy@ComCAT.COM>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Info. needed - Lovers Beneath a Waterfall...
Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2000 01:02:06 -0000
Message-ID: <200001130108.e0D18eo29851@mercury.nildram.co.uk>
Precedence: bulk

Huh..? Who? What...?

Alan has "survived" another evening in my tender mercies and has 
been returned home in ONE piece, I'll have you know, my dear 
Suzanne A. Other than that, glad to see that you're in fine fettle! 
Have been missing your banter for a long time,.... but then I 
suppose we have both been snowed under with this and that.
The Lovers Beneath a Waterfall design is actually quite an exciting 
design, but needs tidying up for s.g. purposes. I might actually use 
elements of it myself. Thank you Sparks for that! I have a 
commission for 7 panels of "Sea Scape" but didn't fancy putting 
shrimps all over it....

As regards photos, well... all my students (especially in At Home 
Studio) get subjected to the camera.... so yes I guess so. But I'll 
let Alan talk for himself.

Take care now.

Elisabeth 'n Toby (guarding 16 kgs worth of fluffy Meric Monterey!!) 
in UK


> on this day you wrote:
> 
> >>  My local library had a copy! And they let me photocopy the page!!
> >>  Now all I have to do is turn it into a design I can manage...
> >>  It just so happens that I'm starting a new class with Elisabeth this
> >>  evening....
> >>  Thanks so much for your help.
> >>  Alan
> 
To which Suzanne Albright replied:
> You're starting a class with *Elisabeth* this evening? 
> God Bless You my child.

----
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North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 12 17:33:14 2000
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From: Dani Greer <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: Tony Dutcher <glassman@esatclear.ie>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: A restoration question
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 20:18:08 -0500
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Message text written by Tony Dutcher
>The shapes of glass have a low relief on them and are
painted in the relief.<

Are these a definite pattern?  Or just a texture
in the glass?  If a definite pattern, they may well
have been done using a deep acid etch... you
might want to experiment with that.... Steve
Richard could give you some good pointers in
that direction.  He's a fellow bungian.  Tell us =

more as things develop!

P.S. We've never had much luck with frit and
probably wouldn't waste the time.... others might
disagree with me.

Best regards,

Dani Greer
Greer Gallery & Studios
www.igga.org/greer/             I presume the IGGA site is back!
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 12 19:57:03 2000
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From: Brad Walker <mbwalker@mail.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: WarmGlass dot com
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 22:29:19 -0500 (EST)
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For anyone who's interested in fusing information, I have relocated my web site to www.warmglass.com
 
I've also made a few improvements to the site, including:
 
--  added information on glass polishing and finishing
--  added glass coaster project as first fusing project
--  added some info on cutting out glass circles
--  added additional links in Resources section
 
Next step is to finish up some of the info in the advanced section (glass painted, for example) and to add more pictures.  Along those lines, if anyone has a small kiln (Quickfire 6 or similar) and can create a digital photo for me to have on the site, I'd be grateful.  Also still looking for photos of industrial glass equipment of any type.
 
I'm also working on the Gallery of warm glass items
 
Thanks to those of you who commented on the site.
 
And a special thanks to Intrastellar for agreeing to host the site.
 
Brad Walker
For information about warm glass techniques and processes such as fusing, slumping, and kiln forming, please visit the Warm Glass website at http://www.warmglass.com

______________________________________________
FREE Personalized Email at Mail.com
Sign up at http://www.mail.com?sr=mc.mk.mcm.tag001

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From owner-glass Wed Jan 12 20:01:24 2000
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From: "Shakeel Abedi" <shakabe@pd.jaring.my>
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Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2000 11:26:16 +0800
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Congratulations Glenna
Best wishes from Malaysia.

Shakeel Abedi


> Hi everyone,
> 
> Just wanted to share some news with you all.
> Maui must have agreed with me completely.  I came back
> pregnant!
> (Now to decide on some names)
> 
> 
> -- 
> Glenna Rand
> gjr@bungi.com
> ----
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> 

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From owner-glass Wed Jan 12 20:19:04 2000
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From: "Family Account" <shad@mail2.nai.net>
To: "glass bungi line" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Sea Scape was;Re: Info. needed - Lovers Beneath a Waterfall...
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 22:22:31 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<200001130108.e0D18eo29851@mercury.nildram.co.uk>>
Precedence: bulk


----- Original Message -----  I have a
> commission for 7 panels of "Sea Scape" but didn't fancy putting
> shrimps all over it....
>

Oh, yuck, add a couple of scallops, at least!  (Unless you plan on doing the
shrimp in puce, of course.)

Actually saw a story on jellyfish on the news tonight.  You know, the colors
of jellyfish are lovely and would translate well to glass, but I don't know
anyone who likes jellyfish enough to actually BUY a glass jellyfish, but you
could sneak in a couple in 7 panels.

Hmm, I have to come up with some fresh 1 foot square designs.  Maybe a coral
reef....  It's off to my Jacques Cousteau books for inspiration.

Dorothy


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From owner-glass Wed Jan 12 21:02:42 2000
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X-Path: pd.jaring.my!shakabe
From: "Shakeel Abedi" <shakabe@pd.jaring.my>
To: "bungi" <glass@bungi.com>, <MATRONA@aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Fused glass and bevel work
Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2000 11:16:15 +0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<e.22ea09.25ae819b@aol.com>>
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Yes   

Pictures. Know of any site?

Shakeel

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <MATRONA@aol.com>
To: <shakabe@pd.jaring.my>
Sent: Thursday, January 13, 2000 9:17 AM
Subject: Re: Fused glass and bevel work


> In a message dated 1/12/00 9:08:50 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
> shakabe@pd.jaring.my writes:
> 
> > 
> >  Same goes to beveled doors and entryways. Clear glass, no color in it.
> >  
> >  Anyone know of any site.
> >  
> >  Thank you in advance.
> >  
> >  Shakeel Abedi
> what do you nee?  Apicture?
> 

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From owner-glass Wed Jan 12 23:03:38 2000
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X-Path: prodigy.net!bobdu
From: "Bob Duchesneau" <bobdu@prodigy.net>
To: "\"Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>, "Tony Dutcher" <glassman@esatclear.ie>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: A restoration question
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 22:49:52 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

>>I tried to reproduce them by casting precut shapes into a
>>plaster mold.

Plaster is a one time use mold material that often yields indifferent
results. Try Mold Mix 6 or other mold material made for glass casting.

>>I fired kokomo (closest color match)  to 1500 F and at a
>>rate of 100 degrees per hour and soaked for and hour. I was unable to
>>get the fine detail of the original pieces.

You can go much faster with small pieces of glass like you are firing.
Kokomo readily devitrifies and so slow rates of advance are not good. It is
best to use a good anti devitrification product like Spray A. 1500'F even
without a soak should have yielded fine detail. Did your mold truly have the
fine detail to begin with?

 >>I have to replace about
>>thirty of the thousands of pieces. I was thinking that if i cast them
>>with frit i might do better, but can anyone provide some professional
>>hints such as how to measure displacement and some example firing
>>seclude with frits, i was also wondering if anyone had experimented with
>>a casting flux, even ceramic grade frits used to flux low fire glazes.

Frit glass is likely to show the individual pieces of glass as opposed to
the clarity of poured glass. I would continue to try with sheet glass. You
can fire frit as fast as your kiln will go.

The displacement thing is easy. Simply submerge an existing tile in a
container of water and note the increase in water level. Using the same
amount of start water load glass to be fused until the previously
established level is reached. Measurement by accurate weight would work well
also.

Spray A is not only a good anti devitrification product but acts as a flux
due to the low melting glass component.

Bob in 92026

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From owner-glass Thu Jan 13 01:04:06 2000
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From: "Alan" <alan@inter-prog.co.uk>
To: "Glass@Bungi.Com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Meeting Meric - was Re: Info. needed - Lovers Beneath a Waterfall...
Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2000 08:41:17 -0000
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I had the privilege last evening of meeting 'little' Meric. As you might
expect, he shares a number of his owner's characteristics...
He's a real sweetie - very friendly, inquisitive, always ready for a cuddle,
and has an endearing habit of gently nibbling your chin (is that a Swedish
thing, or something she picked up in California?).
Alan



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From owner-glass Thu Jan 13 05:55:53 2000
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From: Witchdoc3@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Re: Non-Glass Related
Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2000 08:36:01 EST
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In a message dated 1/12/00 4:39:33 PM, GreerStudios@compuserve.com writes:

>Message text written by Glenna Rand
>
>>Just wanted to share some news with you all.
>>Maui must have agreed with me completely.  I came back
>>pregnant!
>>(Now to decide on some names)
>
>Congratulations!!  Now, before things get too
>out-of-hand, none of the names you all came up
>with for little Meric can be re-cycled, understand???

<LOL> The first thing that crossed my mind was YIKES! Don't even mention the 
subject of names in the presence of this crowd - people will be coming up 
with ideas that make "Moon Unit" and "Dweezil" sound positively preppy!

But seriously....... Congrats to Glenna & Dave!


Sparks
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From owner-glass Thu Jan 13 06:59:36 2000
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From: "charlie" <charliehodge@ltdarkpoet.junglelink.co.uk>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: art or craft ?
Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2000 14:38:07 -0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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I'm sure I'm not alone in this one. I have found that when I've taken work
into a shop they have looked upon my work as a craft and therefore aim to
pay a low price. I've then witnessed "artists" submit work at highly
inflated prices for low skill work with not a murmur from the shop owner. is
this an isolated event, I'd like to know.
Charlie


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From owner-glass Thu Jan 13 07:43:24 2000
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From: Russ Taddiken <taddiken@detroit.sgi.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Non-Glass Related
Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2000 09:15:14 -0500
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Witchdoc3@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 1/12/00 4:39:33 PM, GreerStudios@compuserve.com writes:
>
> >Message text written by Glenna Rand
> >
> >>Just wanted to share some news with you all.
> >>Maui must have agreed with me completely.  I came back
> >>pregnant!
> >>(Now to decide on some names)
> >
> >Congratulations!!  Now, before things get too
> >out-of-hand, none of the names you all came up
> >with for little Meric can be re-cycled, understand???
>
> <LOL> The first thing that crossed my mind was YIKES! Don't even mention the
> subject of names in the presence of this crowd - people will be coming up
> with ideas that make "Moon Unit" and "Dweezil" sound positively preppy!
>
> But seriously....... Congrats to Glenna & Dave!
>
> Sparks
> ----
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> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

Just to start things off:

Kalila = flower in swahili
(always loved that name and the 2nd daughter would have had it if we did not
have cali (calico) the cat)

Congrats Glenna ! and Dave Too!

Hope You get as much joy as we have from this

Russ

--
Russ Taddiken
taddiken@detroit.sgi.com

"It is the mark of an educated mind to be able to entertain a thought
without accepting it."  -- Aristotle



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From owner-glass Thu Jan 13 11:16:34 2000
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From: "charlie" <charliehodge@ltdarkpoet.junglelink.co.uk>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: RE  re art or craft
Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2000 18:53:38 -0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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A complex question! Stained glass is a traditional craft therefore I am a
craftsman. Then again I create a unique piece of work using glass as my
medium.
If  I make a scenic piece, hand picking all my glass for maximum effect then
what difference is there between me and a landscape artist. My point is that
glass-work is not given the credit it deserves.
As a part time tutor I find that most people can master the craft, but I
find that only a few can produce a good, original design. The standard of
the finish is good but the piece lacks impact, but give them a pattern from
a book and you get a very high quality piece of work.
as I write this I am looking around at some of my work and most of it is
nothing special. In 8 years maybe there's only 10 pieces that I feel really
proud of. then again its the "nothing specials" that pay for the good work.
all the best           Charlie






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From owner-glass Thu Jan 13 12:04:25 2000
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From: Dani Greer <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: "charlie" <charliehodge@ltdarkpoet.junglelink.co.uk>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: art or craft ?
Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2000 14:50:38 -0500
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Message text written by "charlie"
>I'm sure I'm not alone in this one. I have found that when I've taken wo=
rk
into a shop they have looked upon my work as a craft and therefore aim to=

pay a low price. I've then witnessed "artists" submit work at highly
inflated prices for low skill work with not a murmur from the shop owner.=

is
this an isolated event, I'd like to know.
Charlie

I'm always in hysterics when folks come into our
shop and look through the portfolios.... in total awe.
And then we get comments like, "Wow, this is like
real art!!" =


Well, yes, we try our best.... <sigh>  ROFLO!!!!

Cheers,

Dani Greer
Greer Gallery & Studios
www.igga.org/greer/  =

<

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From owner-glass Thu Jan 13 12:17:58 2000
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Tony Dutcher <glassman@esatclear.ie>
Subject: Re: A restoration question
Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2000 19:47:51 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk

Tony,
These pieces might be of Norman slab.  Or they might be pressed jewels
which Powell & Co invented in the 19th century.  What makes you feel
they are overfired?  If the panels are really by Powell & Co
(Whitefriars Studio) I don't think it likely they were over fired.  It
is possible you have a problem with too much borax flux in the painting.
(If so the paint will have to be stabilised, as it is water soluble with
an excess of borax).  This silver stain was not necessarily fired at a
lower temperature, as there were then and are now silver stains that
fire at tracing paint temperatures.

This is a case where a picture or three would be worth a great deal. I'm
not sure what we really are talking about.

The pressed jewels were made from molten glass "dripped" into a mould,
then turned out to anneal in a lehr.  You could have a hot glass worker
reproduce these from a cast of the glass, if necessary.

Steve


In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, Tony Dutcher <glassman@esatclear.ie>
writes
>I just signed up to the list and think its great...here goes my first
>question:
>I'm working on restoring a window made by an English studio, maybe
>Powell, but I'm not sure. I have a feeling that the window could be
>dated from the 1870-1900. The window is made up of 5 sections, each 53
>inches by 56 inches. These are very large windows and because of the
>inadequate support system they were badly damaged. The windows are made
>of a tessellation of three different small shapes of glass, I have a
>math problem available for those that would like to figure out the
>tessellation. The shapes of glass have a low relief on them and are
>painted in the relief. it appears that the  paint was over fired on
>nearly all of the pieces. they were also silver stained to a lower
>temperature on the smooth side of the glass. At first i believed that
>the glass was cast into metal molds, there are hundreds of pieces per
>panels. I tried to reproduce them by casting precut shapes into a
>plaster mold. I fired kokomo (closest color match)  to 1500 F and at a
>rate of 100 degrees per hour and soaked for and hour. I was unable to
>get the fine detail of the original pieces. I have to replace about
>thirty of the thousands of pieces. I was thinking that if i cast them
>with frit i might do better, but can anyone provide some professional
>hints such as how to measure displacement and some example firing
>seclude with frits, i was also wondering if anyone had experimented with
>a casting flux, even ceramic grade frits used to flux low fire glazes.
>In the discussion of how the pieces were originally made, the
>possibility of the glass being "stamped" as it came directly from a
>crucible was mentioned, however i would be unable to reproduce them in
>this manor. Any hints would be greatly aprecieated.
>Thanks,
>Tony
>
>----
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-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Thu Jan 13 12:54:31 2000
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From: Dani Greer <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: "charlie" <charliehodge@ltdarkpoet.junglelink.co.uk>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE  re art or craft
Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2000 15:33:45 -0500
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Message text written by "charlie"
>My point is that
glass-work is not given the credit it deserves.<

I do think it depends on the kind of glasswork....
for example, we utilize glass painting which =

immediately pushes the work into the fine art
realm... at least in the minds of the public.  And,
I still stand by my assertion that much old and
new fine craft demonstrates greater ability and
knowledge than a good deal of contemporary
fine art!  And this from a contemporary painter!!

Best regards,

Dani Greer
Greer Gallery & Studios
www.igga.org/greer/
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From owner-glass Thu Jan 13 13:24:41 2000
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From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: charlie <charliehodge@ltdarkpoet.junglelink.co.uk>
Subject: Re: art or craft ?
Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2000 20:35:55 +0000
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I would say it is not an isolated event, but one which is related to how
we view, and consequently present, ourselves. 
We are crafts people when we produce multiples of a work, when we mainly
produce material for domestic situations which are not challenging to
the customer or ourselves.
We are artists when we are trying to present a challenge to the
perceptions of the viewer.  
Galleries respond to the artist's statement kind of hype for various
projects.  Things which attempt to extend a medium, challenge a view
point.  Basically, things which are difficult to understand.  Then we
are artists.  And we should charge as such when we go to galleries,
they, after all take most of the money on the sale.
Steve


In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, charlie <charliehodge@ltdarkpoet.jungleli
nk.co.uk> writes
>I'm sure I'm not alone in this one. I have found that when I've taken work
>into a shop they have looked upon my work as a craft and therefore aim to
>pay a low price. I've then witnessed "artists" submit work at highly
>inflated prices for low skill work with not a murmur from the shop owner. is
>this an isolated event, I'd like to know.
>Charlie
>
>
>----
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-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Thu Jan 13 14:28:38 2000
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Subject: Re: Non-Glass Related
Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2000 17:02:32 EST
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Congrats, Glenna, lucky you.
Luanne
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From owner-glass Thu Jan 13 18:37:12 2000
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From: "Michele S" <mrsdesigns@hotmail.com>
To: gjr@bungi.com, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
Subject: Re: Non-Glass Related
Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2000 16:01:26 EST
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Dear Glenna,
Congratulations to you!  I wish you all the best.  I also wish that Hawaii 
agrees with me in a different way, as I'm checking my mail at a friend's 
here in Pearl Harbor as I write!
Aloha~  Michele


>From: gjr@bungi.com (Glenna Rand)
>To: glass@bungi.com
>Subject: Non-Glass Related
>Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 10:46:11 PST
>
>Hi everyone,
>
>Just wanted to share some news with you all.
>Maui must have agreed with me completely.  I came back
>pregnant!
>(Now to decide on some names)
>
>
>--
>Glenna Rand
>gjr@bungi.com
>----
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______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

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In a message dated 1/13/00 10:44:06 AM, taddiken@detroit.sgi.com writes:

>Congrats Glenna ! and Dave Too!

Wow - somebody besides me has finally remembered "daddy-to-be" too. It 
generally does take two, you know...... otherwise any discussion of names 
immediately becomes moot - we'll just have to call the baby "Jesus"!

We now return you to your regularly scheduled program already in progress.


Sparks
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From owner-glass Fri Jan 14 07:03:00 2000
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From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Hot Glass Horizons 20000 Press Release
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 09:51:13 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Hi gang.  Here's another press release for some exciting spring glass cla=
sses!

Christie A. Wood-IGGA Exec.Director
Art Glass Ensembles
North Wales, PA USA
-------------Forwarded Message-----------------
From:	INTERNET:GlasWiz@aol.com, INTERNET:GlasWiz@aol.com
Date:	01/12/2000  3:36 PM
 =

PRESS RELEASE - FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE

This springs Hot Glass Horizons 2000 Corning will be held at the Radisson=
 =

Hotel in Corning New York,  May 4,5 & 6, 2000. Students pick any three of=
 the =

following classes being offered:
GIL REYNOLDS - "Thermal Formed GlassTM"
VICKI DAY  - "Fusing Foundations"   // "Going Deep"
DEBRA VAN TOL - "Building Clay Molds"  // "Drop Rings and Slumping" =

NEWY FAGAN - "Screen Printing on Glass"  // "Exploratory Kiln Techniques"=

JAYNE PERSICO - "Kiln Formed Bracelets" =

PHIL TEEFY - "Advanced Kiln Forms" // "Pate-de-Verre / Lost Wax" // =

"Marketing Art Glass"
LOREN STUMP - "Advanced Moretti Techniques" =

TIM BROWN - "Jewelry, Marbles and Torch Tricks" // "Hot Parts and Pattern=
 =

Bars"
SHIRLEY WEBSTER  - "Dichrioc Glass:  Jewelry Techniques" // "Dichroic FX"=
 // =

"Advanced Fusing with Dichroic Glass" =

TIM DORLAND - "Glasscapes " =

BORIS CHASIN - "Architectural Glass Tiles"
BLAKE RAMSEY  - "Fusing with 'Free' Glass"
REBECCA BROWN -  "Venetian Millefiori Designs" =

For information and registration Contact Hot Glass Horizons -15500 NE. =

Kincaid Rd. Newberg, OR 97132
 Tel 503-538-5281  Fax  503-538- 6527       Email glaswiz@teleport.com   =

 WEB  http://www.teleport.com/~glaswiz =

 Sponsored by Evenheat Kiln, Fuse Master, Glass Art Magazine

xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Gil Reynolds will be conducting two seminars for the ASGA show in Chicago=
, =

IL. July 26th & 27th. The first " Addressing the Fusing Market"  includes=
 a =

survey of production options and market strategies designed to help you a=
lign =

yourself for success in today's market place. The second class" "Dimensio=
n =

Direction" is a techniques seminar that will cover advance kiln concepts =
and =

process that result in durable dimensional products. Don't miss this =

opportunity to study with a true industry leader. For Registration and =

information contact ASGA1100-H Brandywine Boulevard, PO Box 3388, Zanesvi=
lle, =

OH 43702-3388, Tel 1.888.866.2472, Fax 740.452.2552=
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From owner-glass Fri Jan 14 07:34:21 2000
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Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 10:00:36 -0600
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Organization: stainedglassdesign.com
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From owner-glass Fri Jan 14 10:33:08 2000
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From: Romajoco@aol.com
To: glass@intrastar.net, Glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Mosaic question
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 13:23:40 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Got a lot of glass (a whole lot) for use with mosaics....I have seen the 
"wooden window boxes" in the stained glass catalogs.  If putting a mosaic 
design on them would you need to seal the wood first with something. 

Also would you need to seal the clay flower pots also before starting mosaic 
work.

I would like to do some of both but do not want the glass to fall off at a 
later date if I did not seal them.

Thanks in advance,

Margie
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From owner-glass Fri Jan 14 11:31:51 2000
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Subject: Re: Mosaic question
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 14:07:20 EST
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Hi Margi, Suzanne in Tulsa works with mosaics....maybe she can let you 
know...Abbie in VA
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From owner-glass Fri Jan 14 11:32:34 2000
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X-Path: mtcon.net!shigbee
From: "Shari" <shigbee@mtcon.net>
To: <glass@intrastar.net>,
Subject: Re: Mosaic question
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 12:31:26 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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I had the same question on the wood--I think I would definitely seal the
wood first. I'm going to make a round mosaic table cover for our deck table,
and I will buy outdoor treated wood (if I can) and then seal it before
putting the mosaic on.

Good question on the flower pots. I've made 3 of 'em and haven't even
thought to seal them. But now that I think about it, probably not a bad
idea. I'm using mine, but have put the plants in their original plastic pot
down inside the terracotta pot, so no moisture problems there. If you plan
to plant right in the pot, I'd seal them. And I did put grout sealer on the
pots after I was done--I figured at the very least it would help keep the
grout clean.

Shari in SLC



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From owner-glass Fri Jan 14 13:03:47 2000
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From: Bethanie Brown <bethanie@domesticity.net>
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Subject: Good books for beginners
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 16:50:11 -0400
Message-ID: <l03130300b4a539d2988f@[192.168.0.32]>
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Hey there.

I'm assistant-teaching a Beginner's Stained Glass class for the first time,
and my first assignment is to 1) get copyright permissions to make copies
from a book called "Stained Glass Secrets" by Alicia Larson, published by
Crystal Images Publications, 1990 OR 2) find alternative beginner's texts
and get copyright permissions from them.

Regarding Crystal Images Publications, I tried calling the number given in
the book (it was disconnected) and a number of different Internet
searches, and just can't find any way to contact the company. They're
supposed to be in Park City, UT, but I've had no luck thus far. We like
this particular book because it shows very clearly how to hold the tools,
position your hands on the glass for breaking a score, etc.

So if you can offer any leads on how to find the publishers or author of
this book, or have other suggestions for your favorite books (or
websites!)that might be comparable, please let me know! Thanks!


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From owner-glass Fri Jan 14 14:03:32 2000
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From: "Shari" <shigbee@mtcon.net>
To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: Mosaic question
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 14:30:11 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<387F8C84.5339E43A@home.com>>
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> I suggest Thompson's water seal on wood and flower pot then mosaics then
> silicone grout sealer. Sharon in SC
>

Yep, either Thompson's or even a base coat of paint. Since I plan to leave
the underside of the board plain, I was thinking of sealing the board by
sanding and painting the whole thing to give the underside a slightly more
"finished" look. The same might apply to the planters, depending on the
finished look you are after.
Shari



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From owner-glass Fri Jan 14 14:11:03 2000
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From: "Shari" <shigbee@mtcon.net>
To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: Good books for beginners
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 15:09:09 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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aarrrggghhh...for a minute there I was hot on the trail...

I called our local glass retailer in Salt Lake City to see if he knew Alicia
and/or the publisher. Yes, he knew Alicia. She used to live in Park City and
Crystal Images was her trade name. (Sounds like she probably "self
published" the book.)

Unfortunately, he believes she got married and moved to Florida. No one in
the store knows for certain or knows what her married name is. But she
probably held on to the trade name in Florida.

Now, is there any way to track down someone with just a trade name?

Shari in SLC


> and my first assignment is to 1) get copyright permissions to make copies
> from a book called "Stained Glass Secrets" by Alicia Larson, published by
> Crystal Images Publications, 1990 OR 2) find alternative beginner's texts
> and get copyright permissions from them.
>
> Regarding Crystal Images Publications, I tried calling the number given in
> the book (it was disconnected) and a number of different Internet
> searches, and just can't find any way to contact the company. They're
> supposed to be in Park City, UT, but I've had no luck thus far.


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From owner-glass Fri Jan 14 14:45:18 2000
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From: "Tom" <thomm@vnet.net>
To: "Shari" <shigbee@mtcon.net>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Good books for beginners
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 17:32:48 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Try the Thomas Registry, I believe that is what it's called.  You will
have to 'join', but it's free, to do a search.  This could also be
called the 'Thomas Register'.  This source is usually in public
libraries and lists companies that do business in the US and the world
as well.

Tom

----- Original Message -----
From: "Shari" <shigbee@mtcon.net>
To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Friday, January 14, 2000 5:09 PM
Subject: Re: Good books for beginners


...........
: Now, is there any way to track down someone with just a trade name?
:
: Shari in SLC

: > Regarding Crystal Images Publications, I tried calling the number
given in
: > the book (it was disconnected) and a number of different Internet
: > searches, and just can't find any way to contact the company.
They're
: > supposed to be in Park City, UT, but I've had no luck thus far.


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From owner-glass Fri Jan 14 15:04:32 2000
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From: Larry & Chris Snyder <lcans@tctwest.net>
To: Shari <shigbee@mtcon.net>
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Subject: Re: Good books for beginners
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 15:42:06 -0700
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Shari,
Just a thought, try the supply houses in FL.  i.e. Delphi, Glass
Crafters, etc.  Just a long shot.  Chris
-- 
2Peter 1:5 - 8 (NIV)
Faith,  Goodness; Knowledge; Self-control; Perseverance; Godliness;
Brotherly Kindness; Love. For if you possess these qualities in
increasing measure, they will keep you from  being ineffective and
unproductive 
Cns in WY
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From owner-glass Fri Jan 14 15:19:18 2000
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From: suzy <suzy@ComCAT.COM>
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Subject: Re: Good books for beginners
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 18:10:41 -0500
Message-ID: <200001142308.SAA15659@smu0102.ComCAT.COM>
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I always liked the "Introduction to Stained Glass," by Randy Wardell.
It's clear, concise, has lots of pictures! And some simple beginner 
patterns.
Suzanne
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From owner-glass Fri Jan 14 15:23:21 2000
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From: "Tom" <thomm@vnet.net>
To: "Shari" <shigbee@mtcon.net>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Treated wood, Mosaic question
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 17:50:20 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

For safety's sake and your health, try not to sand 'treated' wood.  You
should also be very careful about breathing even the minute sawdust when
sawing 'treated' wood.

I don't understand the reasoning behind why anyone thinks it would be
necessary to seal, paint, etc., treated wood.  The 'treated' wood is
pressure treated with chemicals to a uniform depth to be bug resistant
for many years.  This type of wood is also used in the making of fence
posts, rails and other things that will be in touch with 'wet earth',
damp concrete, etc.

Working with 'treated' wood can be hazardous to your health.  Be sure
also not to burn 'treated' wood as the smoke is poisonous, and wash your
hands thoroughly, too.

Tom


: > I suggest Thompson's water seal on wood and flower pot then mosaics
then
: > silicone grout sealer. Sharon in SC

: Yep, either Thompson's or even a base coat of paint. Since I plan to
leave
: the underside of the board plain, I was thinking of sealing the board
by
: sanding and painting the whole thing to give the underside a slightly
more
: "finished" look. The same might apply to the planters, depending on
the
: finished look you are after.
: Shari


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From owner-glass Fri Jan 14 16:34:02 2000
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From: Dani Greer <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: Everyone <glass@bungi.com>, John Emery <preston@iu.net>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Good books for beginners
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 19:23:57 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

The best beginner's book available is the
one written by Randy Wardell... which is
also now available in Spanish and French.
It offers, overall, the most accurate information
and covers both copper foil and lead work.
The "Secrets" books have some flat-out
incorrect information....  for example, you should
not be using plaster of Paris in your cement =

formulae according to conservators... this has
been discussed at some length here on bungi
over the years and more information is available
in the archives.  =


As a professional studio artist who teaches at =

the college level, the only beginner book I would
recommend is the Wardell book.  It's also very
reasonably priced.  No, I don't own stock with =

them. ;-D

Best regards,

Dani Greer
Greer Gallery & Studios
www.igga.org/greer/   =

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From owner-glass Fri Jan 14 17:03:04 2000
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X-Path: juno.com!nbg3755
From: nbg3755@juno.com
To: glass@intrastar.net
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: Re: Mosaic question
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 19:34:51 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

I did a couple of flower pots last spring without sealing the terracotta
before applying the glass design, but I did paint them first with
exterior house paint with a bit of sand mixed in for texture.  I kept a
couple and planted them.  They've lasted just fine treated this way, but
I'm in Florida so the lowest temp they've been exposed to is perhaps 27
degrees F.

What a lot of work that project was, though!  I painted the pots with
exterior house paint, then glued the glass design on with liquid nails,
then grouted around  the glass (tinted to match the background paint). 
Much more trouble than it was worth (but they looked great)--just too
expensive to make to sell.

Nancy G in FL
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From owner-glass Fri Jan 14 17:18:47 2000
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From: MATRONA@aol.com
To: GreerStudios@compuserve.com, glass@bungi.com, preston@iu.net
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Good books for beginners
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 19:58:08 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

You know there's another good book.  really inexpensive, which is actually a 
two book set called the stained glass primer.  Good information, not geared 
to the hobbiest.  Inother words, it doesn't cutsee up stained glass for the 
sake of enticing people who have nobusiness making glass in the first place.
Anne
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From owner-glass Fri Jan 14 17:22:57 2000
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From: "Bob Duchesneau" <bobdu@prodigy.net>
To: "\"Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Good books for beginners
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 16:41:01 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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>>I'm assistant-teaching a Beginner's Stained Glass class for the first
time,
and my first assignment is to 1) get copyright permissions to make copies
from a book called "Stained Glass Secrets" by Alicia Larson, <<snip>><<

In fairness to the author, why not just purchase books for each of the
students like any other text book. Getting free permission to reproduce the
book leaves the author and publisher unrewarded for their labors.

Bob in 92026

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From owner-glass Fri Jan 14 17:33:07 2000
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From: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@ix.netcom.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: New *real* job
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 19:06:32 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

I have a new *real* job.  It's at someone elses glass studio.
I just finished my first week, and Im so happy it's Friday!
:o)

A lot of large panels...a lot of hard work.  Im learning lots, and will
be so glad when I feel competent.  Im pretty impressed with the skill of
the others in the studio and very pleased they have been super helpful,
and very gracious and patient with me. :o)  My lead work is improving
daily...(thank God)

Suzanne in Tulsa
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From owner-glass Fri Jan 14 17:35:34 2000
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Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="part1_37.647188.25b1231a_boundary"
Subject: Fwd: I Don't Understand!   Many of you will identify with some of
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 20:10:50 EST
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 It is hard to understand how a cemetery raised its burial cost
 and blamed it on the cost of living.
 
 Just remember...if the world didn't suck, we'd all fall off.

 We are born naked, wet, and hungry.  Then things get worse.
 The 50-50-90 rule:  Anytime you have a 50-50 chance of getting
 something right, there's a 90% probability you'll get it wrong.
 It is said that if you line up all the cars in the world end to end, someone 
would be stupid enough to try and pass them.
 Laughing stock - cattle with a sense of humor.
 You can't have everything, where would you put it?
 Latest survey shows that 3 out of 4 people make up 75% of the
 world's population.
 If the shoe fits, get another one just like it.
 Eat right.  Stay fit.  Die anyway.
 
 The things that come to those that wait may be the things left by 
 those who got there first.
 Give a man a fish and he will eat for a day.
Teach a man to fish and he will sit in a boat drinking beer all day.

 Flashlight:  A case for holding dead batteries.

 Shin:  A device for finding furniture in the dark.

 As long as there are tests, there will be prayer in public schools.
 
 When you're swimming in the creek, and an eel bites your cheek,
 that's a moray!
 
 A fine is a tax for doing wrong.  A tax is a fine for doing well.
 
 It was recently discovered that research causes cancer in rats. 
The only cure for insomnia is to get more sleep.
 Everybody lies, but it doesn't matter since nobody listens.
I wished the buck stopped here, as I could use a few. I started out with 
nothing, and I still have most of it. 
 When you go into court you are putting yourself in the hands of
 12 people that weren't smart enough to get out of jury duty.
 
Light travels faster than sound.
 This is why some people appear bright until you hear them speak.
  


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From: Bleubrd3@aol.com
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Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 18:12:49 EST
Subject: Fwd: I Don't Understand!
To: Bungyman7@aol.com, MATRONA@aol.com, Buckwet250@aol.com,
	DBNASH416@aol.com, erzebeterzebet@yahoo.com, jdarmstr@earthlink.net,
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 > > > 
 > > > It is hard to understand how a cemetery raised its burial cost
 > > > and blamed it on the cost of living.
 > > > 
 > > > Just remember...if the world didn't suck, we'd all fall off.
 > > > 
 > > > We are born naked, wet, and hungry.  Then things get worse.
 > > > 
 > > > The 50-50-90 rule:  Anytime you have a 50-50 chance of getting
 > > > something right, there's a 90% probability you'll get it wrong.
 > > > 
 > > > It is said that if you line up all the cars in the world end to end,
 > > > someone would be stupid enough to try and pass them.
 > > > 
 > > > Laughing stock - cattle with a sense of humor.
 > > > 
 > > > You can't have everything, where would you put it?
 > > > 
 > > > Latest survey shows that 3 out of 4 people make up 75% of the
 > > > world's population.
 > > > 
 > > > If the shoe fits, get another one just like it.
 > > > 
 > > > Eat right.  Stay fit.  Die anyway.
 > > > 
 > > > The things that come to those that wait may be the things left by 
 > > > those who got there first.
 > > > 
 > > > Give a man a fish and he will eat for a day.
 > > > Teach a man to fish and he will sit in a boat drinking beer all day.
 > > > 
 > > > Flashlight:  A case for holding dead batteries.
 > > > 
 > > > Shin:  A device for finding furniture in the dark.
 > > > 
 > > > As long as there are tests, there will be prayer in public schools.
 > > > 
 > > > When you're swimming in the creek, and an eel bites your cheek,
 > > > that's a moray!
 > > > 
 > > > A fine is a tax for doing wrong.  A tax is a fine for doing well.
 > > > 
 > > > It was recently discovered that research causes cancer in rats.
 > > > 
 > > > The only cure for insomnia is to get more sleep.
 > > > 
 > > > Everybody lies, but it doesn't matter since nobody listens.
 > > > 
 > > > I wished the buck stopped here, as I could use a few.
 > > > 
 > > > I started out with nothing, and I still have most of it.
 > > > 
 > > > When you go into court you are putting yourself in the hands of
 > > > 12 people that weren't smart enough to get out of jury duty.
 > > > 
 > > > Light travels faster than sound.
 > > > This is why some people appear bright until you hear them speak.
 > > > 

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Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2000 20:23:51 EST
Subject: Fwd: I Don't Understand!
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Subject: I Don't Understand!
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 19:42:34 -0500
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> > > 
> > > It is hard to understand how a cemetery raised its burial cost
> > > and blamed it on the cost of living.
> > > 
> > > Just remember...if the world didn't suck, we'd all fall off.
> > > 
> > > We are born naked, wet, and hungry.  Then things get worse.
> > > 
> > > The 50-50-90 rule:  Anytime you have a 50-50 chance of getting
> > > something right, there's a 90% probability you'll get it wrong.
> > > 
> > > It is said that if you line up all the cars in the world end to end,
> > > someone would be stupid enough to try and pass them.
> > > 
> > > Laughing stock - cattle with a sense of humor.
> > > 
> > > You can't have everything, where would you put it?
> > > 
> > > Latest survey shows that 3 out of 4 people make up 75% of the
> > > world's population.
> > > 
> > > If the shoe fits, get another one just like it.
> > > 
> > > Eat right.  Stay fit.  Die anyway.
> > > 
> > > The things that come to those that wait may be the things left by 
> > > those who got there first.
> > > 
> > > Give a man a fish and he will eat for a day.
> > > Teach a man to fish and he will sit in a boat drinking beer all day.
> > > 
> > > Flashlight:  A case for holding dead batteries.
> > > 
> > > Shin:  A device for finding furniture in the dark.
> > > 
> > > As long as there are tests, there will be prayer in public schools.
> > > 
> > > When you're swimming in the creek, and an eel bites your cheek,
> > > that's a moray!
> > > 
> > > A fine is a tax for doing wrong.  A tax is a fine for doing well.
> > > 
> > > It was recently discovered that research causes cancer in rats.
> > > 
> > > The only cure for insomnia is to get more sleep.
> > > 
> > > Everybody lies, but it doesn't matter since nobody listens.
> > > 
> > > I wished the buck stopped here, as I could use a few.
> > > 
> > > I started out with nothing, and I still have most of it.
> > > 
> > > When you go into court you are putting yourself in the hands of
> > > 12 people that weren't smart enough to get out of jury duty.
> > > 
> > > Light travels faster than sound.
> > > This is why some people appear bright until you hear them speak.
> > > 


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--part2_37.647188.25b10771_boundary--

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From owner-glass Fri Jan 14 17:48:49 2000
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From: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@ix.netcom.com>
To: MATRONA@aol.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Good books for beginners
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 19:31:05 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

It's what I started with in 1982. :o)
I've lost one of them over the years.  Ive looked everywhere.

Suzanne

MATRONA@aol.com wrote:
> 
> You know there's another good book.  really inexpensive, which is actually a
> two book set called the stained glass primer.  Good information, not geared
> to the hobbiest.  Inother words, it doesn't cutsee up stained glass for the
> sake of enticing people who have nobusiness making glass in the first place.
> Anne
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
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From owner-glass Fri Jan 14 18:01:01 2000
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From: "synergyglass" <seaspray@island.net>
To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Treated wood, Mosaic question
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 17:41:03 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

I think probably marine grade plywood is what the maker should be looking
for, rather than treated wood.  It's made with special water-resistant glues
so a round cut from it should avoid warping when exposed to the elements.  I
think the pressure treated stuff is more normally dimensional lumber for
porches, stairs, etc.


Carol Swann
Synergy Glass & Creative
www.igga.org/synergy
seaspray@island.net
----- Original Message -----
From: Tom <thomm@vnet.net>
To: Shari <shigbee@mtcon.net>
Sent: Friday, January 14, 2000 2:50 PM
Subject: Treated wood, Mosaic question


> For safety's sake and your health, try not to sand 'treated' wood.  You
> should also be very careful about breathing even the minute sawdust when
> sawing 'treated' wood.
>
> I don't understand the reasoning behind why anyone thinks it would be
> necessary to seal, paint, etc., treated wood.  The 'treated' wood is
> pressure treated with chemicals to a uniform depth to be bug resistant
> for many years.  This type of wood is also used in the making of fence
> posts, rails and other things that will be in touch with 'wet earth',
> damp concrete, etc.
>
> Working with 'treated' wood can be hazardous to your health.  Be sure
> also not to burn 'treated' wood as the smoke is poisonous, and wash your
> hands thoroughly, too.
>
> Tom
>
>
> : > I suggest Thompson's water seal on wood and flower pot then mosaics
> then
> : > silicone grout sealer. Sharon in SC
>
> : Yep, either Thompson's or even a base coat of paint. Since I plan to
> leave
> : the underside of the board plain, I was thinking of sealing the board
> by
> : sanding and painting the whole thing to give the underside a slightly
> more
> : "finished" look. The same might apply to the planters, depending on
> the
> : finished look you are after.
> : Shari
>
>
> ----
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From owner-glass Fri Jan 14 18:02:58 2000
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From: BMarhon@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Good books for beginners
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 20:48:04 EST
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I like the Wardell book too but came across a book Iin the library called 
Stained Glass Basics by Chris Rich with Martha Mitchell and Rachel Ward 
published by Sterling Publishing Co. ISBN 0-8069-4877-9. I found a used copy 
on-line but the cover price is only $14.95.  Aside from good basic 
instruction it has a nice selection of patterns for beginners that, while 
simple, show use of color, texture and shading.  Each project has a page of 
tips and the color photos are inspiring.  Projects include small and large 
panels, simple lamps, candle holders,  boxes, even a kalaidescope.
It has both copper foil and lead techniques but I don't work in lead so can't 
vouch for the accuracy of the instruction but the copper foil instruction 
seems thorough with lots of pictures. 

I deal with Sterling Publishing at work and their toll-free # is 
800-359-1680.  I don't know what their minimum purchase is or what their 
discount schedule might be.

Brenda Marhon
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From owner-glass Fri Jan 14 20:49:38 2000
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X-Path: soltec.net!tamis
From: "Tami Siddens" <tamis@soltec.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: New *real* job
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 22:41:21 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Suzanne - congratulations!  Sounds like it might be a good fit for you long
and short term.  Tami

Tami Siddens
Envision Success
Professional Coaching/Consulting Services
Member International Coach Federation
tamis@soltec.net

Attract an extraordinary life!

"Just don't give up trying to do what you really want to do. Where there is
love and inspiration, I don't think you can go wrong." - Ella Fitzgerald





-----Original Message-----
From: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@ix.netcom.com>
To: glass@bungi.com <glass@bungi.com>
Date: Friday, January 14, 2000 7:45 PM
Subject: New *real* job


>I have a new *real* job.  It's at someone elses glass studio.
>I just finished my first week, and Im so happy it's Friday!
>:o)
>
>A lot of large panels...a lot of hard work.  Im learning lots, and will
>be so glad when I feel competent.  Im pretty impressed with the skill of
>the others in the studio and very pleased they have been super helpful,
>and very gracious and patient with me. :o)  My lead work is improving
>daily...(thank God)
>
>Suzanne in Tulsa
>----
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From owner-glass Fri Jan 14 21:19:18 2000
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X-Path: domesticity.net!bethanie
From: Bethanie Brown <bethanie@domesticity.net>
To: "Shari" <shigbee@mtcon.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Good books for beginners
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2000 01:09:25 -0400
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Shari --

Thanks so much for your help!! I think I'll take the suggestions from the
group (and a couple other places where I posted the same question) to my
partner tomorrow and see what she thinks. We may just give the class a
short list of recommended texts, and they can decide to buy their own or
not.

Thanks again for going above & beyond -- it was so nice of you to try!

....Bethanie....

At 6:09 PM -0400 1/14/00, Shari wrote:
>aarrrggghhh...for a minute there I was hot on the trail...
>
>I called our local glass retailer in Salt Lake City to see if he knew Alicia
>and/or the publisher. Yes, he knew Alicia. She used to live in Park City and
>Crystal Images was her trade name. (Sounds like she probably "self
>published" the book.)
>
>Unfortunately, he believes she got married and moved to Florida. No one in
>the store knows for certain or knows what her married name is. But she
>probably held on to the trade name in Florida.
>
>Now, is there any way to track down someone with just a trade name?
>
>Shari in SLC
>
>
>> and my first assignment is to 1) get copyright permissions to make copies
>> from a book called "Stained Glass Secrets" by Alicia Larson, published by
>> Crystal Images Publications, 1990 OR 2) find alternative beginner's texts
>> and get copyright permissions from them.
>>
>> Regarding Crystal Images Publications, I tried calling the number given in
>> the book (it was disconnected) and a number of different Internet
>> searches, and just can't find any way to contact the company. They're
>> supposed to be in Park City, UT, but I've had no luck thus far.
>
>
>----
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From owner-glass Sat Jan 15 00:27:01 2000
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To: BMarhon@aol.com, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Good books for beginners
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2000 02:57:25 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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I must concur strongly with Brenda's recommendation of this book.

That book allowed me to be self-taught in both foil and lead, to a pretty 
reasonable skill level. (Good enough to sell work, and take on some 
restoration work, all with satisfied clients.) Yes, I dove into this hands 
and feet, but the teaching method employed by the book, together with the 
excellent photos, and the beginner projects, were great.

I especially enjoyed the ability to make a small panel, first via foil, then 
the same panel, with lead. For me, a simple way to see, early on, the 
differences in the two disciplines.

fwiw,

Richard Callahan Stained Glass
Las Vegas, NV

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From owner-glass Sat Jan 15 06:01:03 2000
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To: Glenna Rand <gjr@bungi.com>
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Subject: Re: Non-Glass Related
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2000 08:40:14 -0400
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Congratulations Glenna and Dave!!! Maui is magical.

I am very disappointed that rejected names from the Meric search aren't
allowed. Geeze, Grinder is still a great name! <vbg>

Be careful with all the nasty stuff in glass work. Maybe you can spend
the next nine months cutting and foiling a million projects and finish
the rest after the baby comes.

Take care,
Hilary


> Just wanted to share some news with you all.
> Maui must have agreed with me completely.  I came back
> pregnant!
> (Now to decide on some names)
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From owner-glass Sat Jan 15 08:01:24 2000
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From: "Susan C. Reitmann" <oddjob@scc.net>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Need pattern: Mt. Rainer
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2000 09:46:36 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Anyone out there in "Bungi-land" that knows of or has a pattern that would resemble Mt. Rainer in Seattle?
I've been sent several postcards but I can't draw worth a hoot and would like a basic pattern to start with.
Thanks in advance,
Sue Reitmann (oddjob@scc.net)

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From owner-glass Sat Jan 15 11:02:33 2000
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From: MATRONA@aol.com
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Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Need pattern: Mt. Rainer
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2000 13:44:43 EST
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In a message dated 1/15/00 11:02:22 AM Eastern Standard Time, oddjob@scc.net 
writes:

> Anyone out there in "Bungi-land" that knows of or has a pattern that would 
> resemble Mt. Rainer in Seattle?
>  I've been sent several postcards but I can't draw worth a hoot and would 
> like a basic pattern to start with.
>  Thanks in advance,
>  Sue Reitmann (oddjob@scc.net)
>  
Suggestion:
find the photo that shows what it is you want to show, and trace the main 
lines... You will be designing.
Anne
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From owner-glass Sat Jan 15 12:35:04 2000
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01/15/00

Jim Sander
Director of On-Line Travel Programs
Orlando Magical Vacation, Inc.

Re: A Spectacular Disney/Orlando Magical Vacation!!

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Summerfield Condo Resort.

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From owner-glass Sat Jan 15 12:39:12 2000
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X-Path: aisl.bc.ca!atwoods
From: "Tim & Adriana Atwood" <atwoods@aisl.bc.ca>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: art or craft ?
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2000 12:21:04 -0800
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Unfortunately, it is not an isolated event.  But I also want to make it
clear that not all shop owners view "Art" versus "Craft" this way.  (I know
there is at least one gallery that does not - mine! :-) )

I personally find this "Art" versus "Craft" distinction harmful to the real
goal of this whole thing - to bring beauty into peoples lives.  Or maybe not
just beauty - in some cases art can be ugly for the sake of provoking
thought or emotions or making a statement.  Either way, I see a lot of bad
crap passed off at high prices just because the person doing it is an
"Artist", and I see a lot of absolutely wonderful work given a lower status
because it has been categorized as "Craft".

For myself and Adriana's and my art gallery, we look for the following:
1. Quality workmanship.  I don't care if it is a painting or "craft".  A
poorly executed painting is still crap.
2. What I can best describe as "soul" or "life".  This is a personal
judgment in the more difficult to define realm of emotions.  Basically, does
the piece evoke emotions?  A sense of awe?  Just a plain old sense of joy or
well being?  Or does it speak to any other part of life (i.e. "dark art" may
well speak to the darker emotions)?  Is there any sense the art/craftsperson
put something of life into the piece?

(Now in the particular case of our gallery, one must also be a coastal
British Columbia artist preferably Texada Island, Sunshine Coast mid-eastern
Vancouver Island or other Howe Sound / Malaspina Strait / Georgia Strait
location.  But that is just because local work is the niche we aim for in
the gallery.  It is not a reflection of quality or anything like that).

So when you find a gallery or shop that treats you as a lower class just
because they have classified your work as "craft", I say screw them.  Tell
them why you are leaving and then leave.  Go somewhere else and try again.
Places that will treat a craftsperson right do in fact exist.

----- Original Message -----
From: charlie <charliehodge@ltdarkpoet.junglelink.co.uk>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 13, 2000 6:38 AM
Subject: art or craft ?


> I'm sure I'm not alone in this one. I have found that when I've taken work
> into a shop they have looked upon my work as a craft and therefore aim to
> pay a low price. I've then witnessed "artists" submit work at highly
> inflated prices for low skill work with not a murmur from the shop owner.
is
> this an isolated event, I'd like to know.
> Charlie
>
>
> ----
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From owner-glass Sat Jan 15 14:03:20 2000
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From: Dani Greer <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: "Tim & Adriana Atwood" <atwoods@aisl.bc.ca>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: art or craft ?
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2000 16:44:21 -0500
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Message text written by "Tim & Adriana Atwood"
>Either way, I see a lot of bad
crap passed off at high prices just because the person doing it is an
"Artist", and I see a lot of absolutely wonderful work given a lower stat=
us
because it has been categorized as "Craft".<

Dani Greer says:

Yup.  ;-)
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From owner-glass Sun Jan 16 07:00:57 2000
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To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Treated wood, Mosaic question
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 09:55:23 EST
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In a message dated 1/14/00 6:23:55 PM, thomm@vnet.net writes:

>For safety's sake and your health, try not to sand 'treated' wood.  You
>should also be very careful about breathing even the minute sawdust when
>sawing 'treated' wood.

For that matter, you really should wear a good dust-filtering respirator any 
time you're sanding or sawing any kind of wood - but yes, that goes double 
(or maybe triple) when you're working with treated wood.

>I don't understand the reasoning behind why anyone thinks it would be
>necessary to seal, paint, etc., treated wood.  The 'treated' wood is
>pressure treated with chemicals to a uniform depth to be bug resistant
>for many years.

Yes, pressure-treated wood is bug- and rot-resistant, but if it's not also 
waterproofed it will still soak up a certain amount of water and swell when 
it gets wet, and swell further if it freezes after it gets wet (as it's 
likely to do in areas where the weather can go from 55F and raining to 17F in 
about a day and a half, the way it did in Philly last week), and too much of 
that happening will definitely cause the grout in your mosaic (which is also 
subject to water absorption and freezing) to crack and fall off.

To be on the safe side, I'd make sure the wood is thoroughly dry, seal it 
with Thompson's or equivalent, and give that a couple of days to cure 
completely before adding your mosaic. The same goes for terra cotta.


Sparks
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From owner-glass Sun Jan 16 09:01:07 2000
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Subject: what do i charge?
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 11:57:30 EST
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hello,
i have been working with stain glass for awhile now. i just have been doing 
pieces for myself, family and friends. i friend of mine lives near the DC 
area, and want to take some of my panels to work and sell. i have no clue on 
what to charge. most of my panels are 12 1/2 by 15 1/2, foiled and wrapped 
with lead cane. they range for 21 pieces to 50 piece. i use mostly wissmock 
glass. please help me, i don't want to sell them to cheap and under cut 
anyone, so if someone could write me back, tell me what a 21pcs , 37pcs,and 
50 pcs panel should be sold for. Thank you!
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From owner-glass Sun Jan 16 09:37:32 2000
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Subject: Re: what do I charge?
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 12:27:12 EST
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This site might help you.

http://www.glendalemall.com/pricing.htm
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From owner-glass Sun Jan 16 11:38:26 2000
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: THOR7127@aol.com
Subject: Re: what do i charge?
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 19:17:10 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
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If only there was a simple answer to your question, many of use would
have some hair left!

There are a variety of charging schemes, which can be found in the
archives.   There are two basic methods:
        charge per piece (1-2 dollars seems to be the lower end of the
range) This can be modified by adding the cost of the glass and other
supplies, and overheads to the piece times formula.   This makes it very
similar to the second.
        charge by the time taken plus overheads for that time and costs
of materials.  Of course if you are estimating, you will have to had
kept records.  If you haven't up to now, start keeping records for each
project.
        The records should at least include:  size, # pieces, total area
of glass used (and its cost), amount of foil used, amount of solder
used, time used in each stage of the project (designing, selecting
glass, cutting the glass, fitting the glass, foiling/leading, soldering,
finishing).
        After you have done a number of projects you will be able to
analyse the records for averages and standard deviations from the
average.  This will give you information for judging how much time and
expense both each project took, and also how much time and expense other
projects are likely to take.  
        The rate for the time taken is up to you.  It might range from 0
to 50 dollars an hour.  These factors added and multiplied will give you
a rate of return.  Don't forget that if you want to put pieces in stores
or craft fairs there are additional expenses and commissions to pay.
        There may be a copy of my time sheet on the intrastar list web
page.

Steve

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Sun Jan 16 12:09:22 2000
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X-Path: alpha.nad.adelphia.net!alewis
From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@alpha.nad.adelphia.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Nice photos of John La Farge glass
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@POP>
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 14:48:04 +0000
Message-ID: <200001161950.OAA12952@alpha.nad.adelphia.net>
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If you're interested, you can see why John La Farge was so highly 
thought of. I just added photos of several of his pieces to Julie 
Sloan's web site - http://www.jlsloan.com/

The first image you'll see will be replaced by another ... and 
another, so wait a minute. Then go to the link above the photos and 
you'll find *more images of his work.

Tiffany and Frank Lloyd Wright stained glass will be added shortly. 
Enjoy!

Albert

Albert Lewis
AllDesignCom.com | Design & Communications
__________________________________________
54 Cherry Street      North Adams MA 01247
413 663-7946             Fax: 413 663-7167
      http://www.alldesigncom.com/
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From owner-glass Sun Jan 16 12:20:34 2000
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X-Path: yahoo.com!barbaraelmore
From: barbara elmore <barbaraelmore@yahoo.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: "p'cut" glass?
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 12:00:04 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Was recently in a shop that had an interesting glass
that I tried to buy from the owner.  He wouldn't sell
out of his studio, but said that I could probably get
it from any supplier.  

He said the name was something like "peacutt" (at
first I thought "peacock", but he corrected me). I
have searched all the sources I have available and
can't find a manufacturer.  Can anyone help?

Thanks,
Barbara
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com
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From owner-glass Sun Jan 16 13:31:51 2000
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X-Path: aol.com!Rbytl
From: Rbytl@aol.com
To: atwoods@aisl.bc.ca, glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Re: art or craft ?
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 16:12:06 EST
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That is right on!

Germain to the Art/Craft thing, but so true of life, in general. If people 
(artists and crafters as well ) would just simply refuse to be victims!!!.

Thanks for your candor. I wish there was more of that in our society.

Richard
Richard Callahan Stained Glass
Las Vegas, NV
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From owner-glass Sun Jan 16 15:30:45 2000
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From: Dani Greer <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: "INTERNET:Rbytl@aol.com" <Rbytl@aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: art or craft ?
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 18:17:24 -0500
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Message text written by INTERNET:Rbytl@aol.com
>If people =

(artists and crafters as well ) would just simply refuse to be victims!!!=

From owner-glass Sun Jan 16 16:10:13 2000
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From: "Peggy W. Johnsen" <edupjohn@slonet.org>
To: glass@intrastar.net
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Subject: Re: Mosaic question
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 14:52:12 -0800 (PST)
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Good question Margie!  You asked if one should seal the wooden houses
before doing mosaics.  Actually, I will be waiting for the replies on this
one.  As a class we did birdhouses and sealed the mosaic AFTER we grouted
it but no one thought about sealing it first.  Peggy

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From owner-glass Sun Jan 16 16:27:37 2000
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From: suzy <suzy@ComCAT.COM>
To: "glass bungi line" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: Nice photos of John La Farge glass
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 19:02:17 -0500
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on this day you wrote:

>If you're interested, you can see why John La Farge was so highly 
>thought of. I just added photos of several of his pieces to Julie 
>Sloan's web site - http://www.jlsloan.com/

Albert,

Nice photos! Very interesting presentation! The man's work is wondrous. 
Thanks!
Suzanne A.
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From owner-glass Sun Jan 16 16:43:20 2000
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Subject: Re: "p'cut" glass? 
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 00:19:54 +0000
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At 12:00 16/01/00 -0800, Barbara wrote:
>He said the name was something like "peacutt" (at
>first I thought "peacock", but he corrected me). I
>have searched all the sources I have available and
>can't find a manufacturer.  Can anyone help?

Barbara it could be T cut which is a phrase used by spectrum (I think ) to
describe non-standard/quality glass.  It is supposed to be sold cheaper
than the regular line and contains flaws.  We often suspect that glass we
pay the regular price for is this substandard glass as we often get
spectrum glass with "skid marks" and what glassblowers call "stones" -
small lumps of white stuff off the kiln walls - in it and have to sell it
at a discount.  But our suppliers assure us that they dont sell T cut glass!!
Regards
Elizabeth in Bournemouth
http://www.stainedglass.co.uk
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From owner-glass Mon Jan 17 03:30:48 2000
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X-Path: vnet.net!thomm
From: "Tom" <thomm@vnet.net>
To: "Steve Richard" <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Headings (was: Good books for beginners)
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 06:27:37 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<azeiBCAhmag4Ew4T@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>>
Precedence: bulk

When I posted about the Thomas Registry or Thomas Register, everything I
spoke of *was about* the *heading*, Good Books for Beginners.

Please read and *understand* before trying to correct the good
intentions of others.

Tom

----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Richard" <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: "Tom" <thomm@vnet.net>
Cc: "Shari" <shigbee@mtcon.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 16, 2000 6:21 AM
Subject: Headings (was: Good books for beginners)


: Hey, Folks.
:         Now is the time to change headings, since the posts are not
: about "Good books for beginners" but about trade names.
:         It would help in the use of this list if everyone made these
: changes.
: In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, Tom <thomm@vnet.net> writes
: >Try the Thomas Registry, I believe that is what it's called.  You
will
: >have to 'join', but it's free, to do a search.  This could also be
: >called the 'Thomas Register'.  This source is usually in public
: >libraries and lists companies that do business in the US and the
world
: >as well.
: >
: >Tom
: >
: >----- Original Message -----
: >From: "Shari" <shigbee@mtcon.net>
: >To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
: >Sent: Friday, January 14, 2000 5:09 PM
: >Subject: Re: Good books for beginners
: >
: >
: >...........
: >: Now, is there any way to track down someone with just a trade name?
: >:
: >: Shari in SLC
: >
: >: > Regarding Crystal Images Publications, I tried calling the number
: >given in
: >: > the book (it was disconnected) and a number of different Internet
: >: > searches, and just can't find any way to contact the company.
: >They're
: >: > supposed to be in Park City, UT, but I've had no luck thus far.
: >
: >
: >----
: >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
: >To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
: >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
:
: --
: Steve Richard
: Verrier Art Glass Ltd
: s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
:

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From owner-glass Mon Jan 17 05:56:54 2000
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From: Larry & Chris Snyder <lcans@tctwest.net>
To: glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Master Glass Sets
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 06:25:24 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

I am thinking of purchasing a Master glass set.  Most of the suppliers
have them but for varying prices.  Is there one that anyone  prefers
over another or thinks is better value for money?  I would welcome your
thoughts.  Chris
-- 
2Peter 1:5 - 8 (NIV)
Faith,  Goodness; Knowledge; Self-control; Perseverance; Godliness;
Brotherly Kindness; Love. For if you possess these qualities in
increasing measure, they will keep you from  being ineffective and
unproductive 
Cns in WY
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From owner-glass Mon Jan 17 08:29:58 2000
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X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Mosaic question
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 10:58:49 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Message text written by "Shari"
>> I suggest Thompson's water seal on wood and flower pot then mosaics th=
en
> silicone grout sealer. Sharon in SC
>

Yep, either Thompson's or even a base coat of paint. Since I plan to leav=
e
the underside of the board plain, I was thinking of sealing the board by
sanding and painting the whole thing to give the underside a slightly mor=
e
"finished" look. The same might apply to the planters, depending on the
finished look you are after.<

I don't advocate using a coat of paint on an unsealed terra cotta
flower pot.  I tried that, and 2 years after the mosaic work, the
glass & grout was popping off.  The water will still seep in somehow
and will destroy your mosaic work (boo).  So - water sealant is my
preferred method.

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
North Wales, PA USA
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From owner-glass Mon Jan 17 10:27:20 2000
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From: "Tom" <thomm@vnet.net>
To: "Larry & Chris Snyder" <lcans@tctwest.net>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Master Glass Sets
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 13:13:44 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
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I usually enjoy others posts to glassbungi.

But, when signature lines are of the "in your face" type message, I
place those names in a file so that they are not even downloaded from my
server.  Sorry to have to do this, but I really don't appreciate your
cyber message.  If you want to witness, fine, just witness off the list
as you don't know just who you are trying to witness to.

Tom in NC

----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry & Chris Snyder" <lcans@tctwest.net>
To: "glass" <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Monday, January 17, 2000 8:25 AM
Subject: Master Glass Sets


: I am thinking of purchasing a Master glass set.  Most of the suppliers
: have them but for varying prices.  Is there one that anyone  prefers
: over another or thinks is better value for money?  I would welcome
your
: thoughts.  Chris
: --
: 2Peter 1:5 - 8 (NIV)
: Faith,  Goodness; Knowledge; Self-control; Perseverance; Godliness;
: Brotherly Kindness; Love. For if you possess these qualities in
: increasing measure, they will keep you from  being ineffective and
: unproductive
: Cns in WY
: ----
: For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
: To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
: Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
:

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From owner-glass Mon Jan 17 10:39:01 2000
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From: Dani Greer <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: Everyone <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: studio safety
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 13:34:39 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk



-------------Forwarded Message-----------------

From:	INTERNET:ACTSNYC@cs.com, INTERNET:ACTSNYC@cs.com
To:	[unknown], GreerStudios
	=

Date:	1/16/100  7:21 PM

RE:	Re: studio safety

 =

In a message dated 1/16/00 4:37:08 PM Eastern Standard Time, =

GreerStudios@compuserve.com writes:

> =

>  What is legally required of a commercial studio regarding =

>  the safety of employees?  Anything? =

>  Where I work there is no special ventilation, no respirators and they
>  unzip old panels in the middle of the studio.
>  Ive seen no msds info anywhere, and one of the owners was just diagnos=
ed
>  with lung cancer.  The studio people refused to open something the oth=
er
>  day (I dont know what it was) saying for all we know that's what made
>  the owner sick.  =

>  =

>  Suzanne

That's a really incredible question.  Employers have to provide a safe =

workplace for their employees that is free of recognized hazards.  From t=
his =

simple requirement there are now three huge volumes of laws and regulatio=
ns.  =

Many of them apply to the stained glass studio.

The most important of these regulations are the ones regarding lead.  In =
this =

case 29 CFR 1910.1025 requires personal monitoring, and a flock of protec=
tive =

measures.  Most stained glass studios are operating illegally with respec=
t to =

this law.  They could be shut down and the owners cited and fined. It is =
why =

I have pushed so hard to get this community to understand that they must =

spend the money to do this right.

They must spend the money one of two ways:

1.  Hire industrial hygienists and ventilation consultants to set up a st=
udio =

in which lead can be used.  This will cost many, many thousands of dollar=
s =

and will be a continuing expense in terms of retraining, changing filters=
, =

disposing of filters as toxic waste, blood tests, medical record keeping,=
 and =

much more.

or

2.  Stop using lead.  There are lead-free solders out there.  They are a =

little harder to use, but they are there.  There is zinc came.  There are=
 =

ways to do this--they will make big changes in the work, but these method=
s =

and materials must be used by those who can't afford the lead-using studi=
o.  =



The only way to escape the law is to work alone with no employees at all.=
  =

OSHA then has no jurisdiction and you are allowed to do yourself in howev=
er =

you choose.


Monona Rossol
ACTS
181 Thompson St., # 23
NYC NY 10012-2586   =







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From owner-glass Mon Jan 17 14:03:38 2000
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To: "Glass @ Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: studio safety
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 16:49:35 -0500
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[snip]

> Many of them apply to the stained glass studio.
> The most important of these regulations are the ones regarding lead.  In
this
> case 29 CFR 1910.1025 requires personal monitoring, and a flock of
protective
> measures.  Most stained glass studios are operating illegally with respect
to
> this law.  They could be shut down and the owners cited and fined. It is
why
> I have pushed so hard to get this community to understand that they must
> spend the money to do this right.
>

[snip]


The link to the OSHA standard in question:
http://www.osha-slc.gov/OshStd_data/1910_1025.html

Some notable excerpts:

    This section applies to all occupational exposure to lead, except as
provided
    in paragraph (a)(2).

    "Action level" means employee exposure, without regard to the use of
respirators,
    to an airborne concentration of lead of 30 micrograms per cubic meter of
air
    (30 ug/m(3)) averaged over an 8-hour period.

    Permissible exposure limit (PEL).
    The employer shall assure that no employee is exposed to lead at
concentrations
    greater than fifty micrograms per cubic meter of air (50 ug/m(3))
averaged over
    an 8-hour period

    Full shift personal samples shall be representative of the monitored
employee's regular,
    daily exposure to lead.


And let's not forget appendix A of case 29 CFR 1910.1025
http://www.osha-slc.gov/OshStd_data/1910_1025_APP_A.html

Notable excerpts:

    A. Ways in which lead enters your body. When absorbed into your body in
certain
    doses lead is a toxic substance. The object of the lead standard is to
prevent
    absorption of harmful quantities of lead. The standard is intended to
protect you
    not only from the immediate toxic effects of lead, but also from the
serious toxic
    effects that may not become apparent until years of exposure have
passed.

    Lead can be absorbed into your body by inhalation (BREATHING) and
ingestion
    (EATING). Lead (except for certain organic lead compounds not covered by
the
    standard, such as tetraethyl lead) IS NOT ABSORBED THROUGH YOUR SKIN.
    When lead is scattered in the air as a dust, fume or mist it can be
inhaled and
    absorbed through you lungs and upper respiratory tract. Inhalation of
airborne lead
    is generally the most important source of occupational lead absorption.
You can
    also absorb lead through your digestive system if lead gets into your
mouth and
    is swallowed. If you handle food, cigarettes, chewing tobacco, or
make-up which
    have lead on them or handle them with hands contaminated with lead, this
will
    contribute to ingestion.

(My crap a.k.a. Know Thy Enemy)
a) The regulation deals strictly with airborne Lead.

b) Personal monitoring does not mean monitoring personnel.  It means
monitoring the air in
the work area where personnel are likely exposed to Lead.

c) Unless people are doing something out of the ordinary with Lead as it
pertains to Stained Glass,
like buffing up your Lead or solder lines with a wire brush on an angle
grinder or  heating Lead
or Lead bearing mixtures to the boiling point of Lead, the airborne
concentrations should be _well_
below 30 micrograms/cubic meter averaged over an 8 hour period.  Anything
below and OSHA
does not require _any_ action on the employers part.

d) Handling Lead is not dangerous per-se as it can not be absorbed through
the skin.
Wash your hands afterward; don't eat/drink/smoke/apply makeup/etc. while
handling it.
In other words, use common sense.  There are excellent hand detergents
specifically
to address the removal of heavy metals from the skin.  Us them.

Now seeing that the government is not all-knowing when it comes to much of
anything,
and if you're truly concerned about Lead exposure from the concernable
sources,
by all means have some testing performed. Lead _is_ dangerous.  But only
under the proper
conditions.  As far as OSHA citing or shutting you down, well....

Lead has to be one of the least of your worries concerning stained glass.
Educate yourself
on all the real potential dangers like huffing a little Whiting, ingesting
some Zinc Chloride or Selinic
Oxide or Nitric Acid, holding the 4 square feet of glass over head to see
the light through it
(It's all fun and games until some one loses an eye...), or breathing the
fumes from the organic
carrier in flux (any flux, including tallow) as it smokes off your iron,
worry about a three fingered
handshake for the rest of your life the next time you drop that came
chop-saw.

(Check out the OSHA regs on equipment operation...)

[snip]
> 1.  Hire industrial hygienists and ventilation consultants to set up a
studio
> in which lead can be used.  This will cost many, many thousands of dollars
> and will be a continuing expense in terms of retraining, changing filters,
> disposing of filters as toxic waste, blood tests, medical record keeping,
> and  much more.
>
> or
>
> 2.  Stop using lead.  There are lead-free solders out there.  They are a
> little harder to use, but they are there.  There is zinc came.  There are
> ways to do this--they will make big changes in the work, but these methods
> and materials must be used by those who can't afford the lead-using
studio.
[snip]

Unless I'm missing something in the regs, this seems excessive and
unnecessary.
Especially when you're already scrapping by to make a living.

Let me repeat.  Lead is dangerous.  And worse yet, it is insidious in its
actions.  That's why
people are terrified of it, and why there is so much lore and
misunderstanding surrounding it.
KNOW IT, UNDERSTAND IT AND TAKE THE PROPER PRECAUTIONS.
They're not expensive.

-G

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From owner-glass Mon Jan 17 15:31:03 2000
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X-Path: alpha.nad.adelphia.net!alewis
From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@alpha.nad.adelphia.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Did Louis Tiffany "invent" opalescent glass?
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@POP>
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 18:11:08 +0000
Message-ID: <200001172313.SAA15002@alpha.nad.adelphia.net>
Precedence: bulk

Did Louis Tiffany "invent" opalescent glass?

Julie Sloan says, "probably not," if I read her research correctly. 
Take a look yourself:   http://www.jlsloan.com/articles.htm
then
scroll down one click to
"The Rivalry Between Louis Comfort Tiffany and John La Farge"
and enjoy the benefit of her research yourself.

Nice photos, too.

Albert
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From owner-glass Mon Jan 17 16:30:57 2000
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X-Path: vnet.net!thomm
From: "Tom" <thomm@vnet.net>
To: "Steve Richard" <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Headings (was: Good books for beginners)
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 19:00:38 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<+RRL5FAdD4g4Ew+Z@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>>
Precedence: bulk

Steve,

See?  This is exactly what I meant by my answer to you.

You obviously *missed* the meat of the subject.  Please get the whole
story, nothing but the story, before you criticize others for the way
they post re:headers.  You are clearly in the wrong, but I didn't want
to say that to the world.  But, you've left me no choice.  I hope the
subject matter re:headers and "correctness" is over soon.

Tom in NC

----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Richard" <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: "Tom" <thomm@vnet.net>
Sent: Monday, January 17, 2000 3:51 PM
Subject: Re: Headings (was: Good books for beginners)


: Sorry Tom.
: I can't see how a message about tracing a company by trade name has
: anything to do with books for beginners.
:
: Steve
:
: In message <012001bf60dd$dc8e1080$f23152a6@xx>, Tom <thomm@vnet.net>
: writes
: >When I posted about the Thomas Registry or Thomas Register,
everything I
: >spoke of *was about* the *heading*, Good Books for Beginners.
: >
: >Please read and *understand* before trying to correct the good
: >intentions of others.
: >
: >Tom
: >
: >----- Original Message -----
: >From: "Steve Richard" <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
: >To: "Tom" <thomm@vnet.net>
: >Cc: "Shari" <shigbee@mtcon.net>
: >Sent: Sunday, January 16, 2000 6:21 AM
: >Subject: Headings (was: Good books for beginners)
: >
: >
: >: Hey, Folks.
: >:         Now is the time to change headings, since the posts are not
: >: about "Good books for beginners" but about trade names.
: >:         It would help in the use of this list if everyone made
these
: >: changes.
: >: In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, Tom <thomm@vnet.net> writes
: >: >Try the Thomas Registry, I believe that is what it's called.  You
: >will
: >: >have to 'join', but it's free, to do a search.  This could also be
: >: >called the 'Thomas Register'.  This source is usually in public
: >: >libraries and lists companies that do business in the US and the
: >world
: >: >as well.
: >: >
: >: >Tom
: >: >
: >: >----- Original Message -----
: >: >From: "Shari" <shigbee@mtcon.net>
: >: >To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
: >: >Sent: Friday, January 14, 2000 5:09 PM
: >: >Subject: Re: Good books for beginners
: >: >
: >: >
: >: >...........
: >: >: Now, is there any way to track down someone with just a trade
name?
: >: >:
: >: >: Shari in SLC
: >: >
: >: >: > Regarding Crystal Images Publications, I tried calling the
number
: >: >given in
: >: >: > the book (it was disconnected) and a number of different
Internet
: >: >: > searches, and just can't find any way to contact the company.
: >: >They're
: >: >: > supposed to be in Park City, UT, but I've had no luck thus
far.
: >: >
: >: >
: >: >----
: >: >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
: >: >To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
: >: >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
: >:
: >: --
: >: Steve Richard
: >: Verrier Art Glass Ltd
: >: s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
: >:
: >
:
: --
: Steve Richard
: Verrier Art Glass Ltd
: s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
:

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From owner-glass Mon Jan 17 16:33:01 2000
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X-Path: vnet.net!thomm
From: "Tom" <thomm@vnet.net>
To: "Debbie T" <debbiesgarden@crosswinds.net>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: In your face, crap
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 19:09:50 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<38838BD0.A9CB59C@crosswinds.net>>
Precedence: bulk

Debbie,

I used the "Filter" setup instead so I won't have to [DELETE] those
members anymore.

Do you really think it's "just me" who doesn't like being smacked with
bible verses on others signature lines (and some even include these IN
their posts on some lists)?  I can guarantee you that it's not "just
me", but rather a lot of others who feel as I do.  I didn't join this
list to read bible verses or be witnessed to, I joined this list for the
exchange of good stained glass talk as did those who would support my
position.  Why you get yourself upset (caps are usually reserved for
*shouting!*) is something only you can understand.  Perhaps you get "in
your face" with others, too?  Just a guess, not a statement so don't
jump all over me again.

Tom in NC - home of the Big BUCKLE of the Bible Belt (maybe this has
hardened me by being constantly exposed to those who would get "in my
face!"  Maybe.)

----- Original Message -----
From: "Debbie T" <debbiesgarden@crosswinds.net>
To: "Tom" <thomm@vnet.net>
Sent: Monday, January 17, 2000 4:38 PM
Subject: Re: Master Glass Sets


: OH FOR CRYING OUT LOUD! Knock it off. So what if he wants to use a
personal
: signature line?  Quitchurbeefin bud! We don't need another flame war
going
: on ON the list. Feel free to use your delete button. Freedom is
wonderful!
:
: Tom wrote:
:
: > I usually enjoy others posts to glassbungi.
: >
: > But, when signature lines are of the "in your face" type message, I
: > place those names in a file so that they are not even downloaded
from my
: > server.  Sorry to have to do this, but I really don't appreciate
your
: > cyber message.  If you want to witness, fine, just witness off the
list
: > as you don't know just who you are trying to witness to.
: >
: > Tom in NC
: >
: > ----- Original Message -----
: > From: "Larry & Chris Snyder" <lcans@tctwest.net>
: > To: "glass" <glass@bungi.com>
: > Sent: Monday, January 17, 2000 8:25 AM
: > Subject: Master Glass Sets
: >
: > : I am thinking of purchasing a Master glass set.  Most of the
suppliers
: > : have them but for varying prices.  Is there one that anyone
prefers
: > : over another or thinks is better value for money?  I would welcome
: > your
: > : thoughts.  Chris
: > : --
: > : 2Peter 1:5 - 8 (NIV)
: > : Faith,  Goodness; Knowledge; Self-control; Perseverance;
Godliness;
: > : Brotherly Kindness; Love. For if you possess these qualities in
: > : increasing measure, they will keep you from  being ineffective and
: > : unproductive
: > : Cns in WY
: > : ----
: > : For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
: > : To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
: > : Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
: > :
: >
: > ----
: > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
: > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
: > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
:

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From owner-glass Mon Jan 17 17:02:24 2000
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X-Path: teleport.com!weaver51
From: "Howard" <weaver51@teleport.com>
To: "Larry & Chris Snyder" <lcans@tctwest.net>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Master Glass Sets and more.........
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 14:43:36 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Organization: weaver51@teleport.com
Precedence: bulk

Machine made sets are fine......hand made glass varies( imagine that) and a
2x3 inch piece may be the only part of that sheet with that color(s) on
it.........

cathedral glass and monochrome color tend to be uniform and sample sets show
them fine.


Now for the MORE.............
"2Peter 1:5 - 8 (NIV)
Faith,  Goodness; Knowledge; Self-control; Perseverance; Godliness;
Brotherly Kindness; Love. For if you possess these qualities in
increasing measure, they will keep you from  being ineffective and
unproductive"
Cns in WY

I find the above signature message a lot more than I want to be told and
perhaps not an indicator of my character and productiveness as SOMEONE else
measures it. Seems to me, if the perpetrators of the above musings had
followed their own suggestions and observations, a few killings, massacres,
and an overall tolerance of their "fellow" human beings would have been/and
or will be different!

After this post to you and a return post either direct or to the list will
be handled by my "in-box" assistant.

sincerely, Howard


weaver51@teleport.com
Elaine and Howard
best lamps on the "net":
http://www.teleport.com/~cbs/howard

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From owner-glass Mon Jan 17 19:06:25 2000
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X-Path: home.net!esavad
From: Mike Savad <esavad@home.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: In your face, crap
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 21:38:15 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Organization: Mike's Stained Glass
Precedence: bulk

Tom wrote:
> 
> Debbie,
> 
> I used the "Filter" setup instead so I won't have to [DELETE] those
> members anymore.
> 
> Do you really think it's "just me" who doesn't like being smacked with
> bible verses on others signature lines (and some even include these IN
> their posts on some lists)?  I can guarantee you that it's not "just
> me", but rather a lot of others who feel as I do.  I didn't join this
> list to read bible verses or be witnessed to, I joined this list for the
> exchange of good stained glass talk as did those who would support my
> position.  Why you get yourself upset (caps are usually reserved for
> *shouting!*) is something only you can understand.  Perhaps you get "in
> your face" with others, too?  Just a guess, not a statement so don't
> jump all over me again.
> 
> Tom in NC - home of the Big BUCKLE of the Bible Belt (maybe this has
> hardened me by being constantly exposed to those who would get "in my
> face!"  Maybe.)
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Debbie T" <debbiesgarden@crosswinds.net>
> To: "Tom" <thomm@vnet.net>
> Sent: Monday, January 17, 2000 4:38 PM
> Subject: Re: Master Glass Sets
> 
> : OH FOR CRYING OUT LOUD! Knock it off. So what if he wants to use a
> personal
> : signature line?  Quitchurbeefin bud! We don't need another flame war
> going
> : on ON the list. Feel free to use your delete button. Freedom is
> wonderful!
> :
> : Tom wrote:
> :
> : > I usually enjoy others posts to glassbungi.
> : >
> : > But, when signature lines are of the "in your face" type message, I
> : > place those names in a file so that they are not even downloaded
> from my
> : > server.  Sorry to have to do this, but I really don't appreciate
> your
> : > cyber message.  If you want to witness, fine, just witness off the
> list
> : > as you don't know just who you are trying to witness to.
> : >
> : > Tom in NC
> : >
> : > ----- Original Message -----
> : > From: "Larry & Chris Snyder" <lcans@tctwest.net>
> : > To: "glass" <glass@bungi.com>
> : > Sent: Monday, January 17, 2000 8:25 AM
> : > Subject: Master Glass Sets
> : >
> : > : I am thinking of purchasing a Master glass set.  Most of the
> suppliers
> : > : have them but for varying prices.  Is there one that anyone
> prefers
> : > : over another or thinks is better value for money?  I would welcome
> : > your
> : > : thoughts.  Chris
> : > : --
> : > : 2Peter 1:5 - 8 (NIV)
> : > : Faith,  Goodness; Knowledge; Self-control; Perseverance;
> Godliness;
> : > : Brotherly Kindness; Love. For if you possess these qualities in
> : > : increasing measure, they will keep you from  being ineffective and
> : > : unproductive
> : > : Cns in WY
> : > : ----

personally i'm very anti bible - anti religion. personally i didn't even
see it there. it would have to be pretty big for me to see it maybe an
ASCII monkey or something. 

i ignore stuff like that. it would be annoying if he tried converting
someone up front. i wouldn't worry about it. 

i never liked the bible pushers myself. don't believe in god. probably
should'nt have signed those christian guestbooks, i still get bible
greetings and salutations... but in this case it's not all that bad....



---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass - Tips Tricks Photos
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
9-12-99 - New Pages Added: 3 new Tips sections - Reader's Tips, Making
your own Glass Filigree, and Cutting Different types of glass. There are
also a lot of new Sky City pictures.
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From owner-glass Mon Jan 17 20:13:11 2000
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X-Path: ior.com!glshorse
From: Elizabeth Arakelian <glshorse@ior.com>
To: Tom <thomm@vnet.net>, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: In your face, crap
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 19:44:37 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
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my only comment on this is why is it OK for someone to put quotes from
all sorts of philosiphers (sp?) etc etc etc(which folks on bungi freely
do...)..or quotes from other religions..I dare say no one would say a
peep if someone had a quote from buddha or Ghandi or Maimonides  on
their tag line. And awhile back I believe someone had a direct link to
her own wiccan web site attached to every post she posted (which btw I
was NOT offended by her including it...its a free country...I may
strongly disagree with her but shes perfectly entitled to state her
views in a nonoffensive manner) and there was nary a negative word about
it (or even any word about it if I so remember) But heaven forbid
someone quotes the bible...I can only imagine if someone had posted a
link to his/her own Christian website the flak that would
ensue....methinks I smell a double standard here......something to think
about.


Liz
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From owner-glass Mon Jan 17 21:55:13 2000
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From: "Tom" <thomm@vnet.net>
To: "Elizabeth Arakelian" <glshorse@ior.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: In your face *double standard*?  Really?
Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 00:33:34 -0500
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Double standard?  From or by whom, pray tell?

Tom

From: "Elizabeth Arakelian" <glshorse@ior.com>

snipped...................I can only imagine if someone had posted a
: link to his/her own Christian website the flak that would
: ensue....methinks I smell a double standard here......something to
think
: about.
: Liz


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From owner-glass Mon Jan 17 22:30:38 2000
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From: Cecily and Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>,
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: Re:  In our faces and Morse Museum (new topic)
Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 01:22:00 -0500
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--------------817C334B6930C32E78E618FE
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Umm - hey people - It's January, we're none of us getting enough light,
it's cold and windy, we've all got the flu, and February is coming and
it's probably even more dreary than January.  So can we all take it
somewhat easy on each other?

I finally got to see the Morse Museum in Winter Park (Orlando, FL).
Long  drive from Sarasota (2 hrs on interstates at 80 mph and TRAFFIC).
But it was worth it.  Not a large museum at all, but an intriguing
collection of Tiffany.  Unfortunately their La Farge wasn't available
for seeing.  But I grabbed a docent and she took me about, and I plied
her with a multitude of questions, some of which she could answer, and
some not.  They now have a little publication on Tiffany available only
for the staff (written by McKean) - let us hope they make it available
for the rest of us.  They also have a number of paintings and sketches
by Tiffany, a little of the jewelry, and quite a bit of the blown
glass.  The museum is also concentrated on the Arts and Crafts period,
with some fine pottery and glass and a tiny bit of furnature.

It was interesting to see how a piece started with a fine finished
drawing/painting - a finished work of art in itself, and then see how
he/they had reduced it and simplified it so it would work for stained
glass.  It was also interesting to see how 3-D many of the things were.
Oh, I knew about the layering, but you don't realize from photos that he
has used marbles - huge shooters, regular ones, tiny ones and blobs of
all sizes.  And he has faceted them by beating or hammering, as though
they were dalle de verre.  He either cast or slumped lots of pieces into
jewels and other shapes and then incorporated those - not just in the
lamps.

He also did a lot of 3-D with the solder or lead lines - the way he has
used the came-on-came in the eggplant panel is wonderful and really
gives that ridged effect of the stalks.  Some of the windows were
traditionally reinforced, but some had came or reinforcement set on edge
so it was way raised up and an intregral part of the 3-D design as well
as reinforcing the piece.

He also had bowed some circular places.  Unfortunately, kinda like Frank
Lloyd Wright, he ignored gravity a bit more than he should have.  The
docent volunteered that the La Farge totally lacks these 3-D effects.

The "chapel" done for the Chicago Exposition was impressive, although I
guess I expected more, but I guess it too had been in the fire that
originally allowed the Morse to have the stuff.  The whole thing has
been re-set-up some 4 or 5 times, and there was an enormous amount of
restoration that had to be done.  My, I wish the guy that headed the
restoration would write a book with all the details he has learned about
how things were done.

Elisabeth - I remember you commenting about the cold painting (faces,
hands, etc.) on the one window.  The docent pointed that out and said it
was very common, expecially in European stained glass at the time.
Americans were more apt to fire their painting, she said.  (Don't know
what her source for that was, so can't tell if it was accurate or not.)

I particularly took note of the glass itself, since he(they) made it to
spec - want red/green for swiss chard? make some.  Want pine needles?
Throw some black streamers on and fuse.  Want interesting water ? Fuse
some flakes.  I didn't notice any of the thick dense opalescent often
used in the Victorian type of church/house windows.  His glass mostly
was medium when he wanted opacity, and medium/dense at it's most
opaque.  But I didn't think he used opaque much, other than when he
wanted white as a color.  The docent noted he often used silver or gold
foil backing to the glass - particularly that used for mosaic work, but
that for the "chapel" he actually used aluminium - cheaper and wouldn't
tarnish, and anything gold was  painted, again as a cost measure.

He also incorporated river stones, and sliced, colored and polished
marble (sometimes foiled, and sometimes used some kind of mastic or
morter to hold them in pattern).  There is a name for such marble work,
but it escapes me.

Instead of opalescent, he layered.  I was particularly interested in how
he/they did it.  I didn't know if he just layed one piece on top of
another and simply soldered at any join, but the docent said that all
the layered pieces were foiled to the ones on top or below.  Not that
there was a one-for-one correlation, but at some edge a whole layer
would be completely foiled to that above or below.

Color art photos are wonderful, as are posters, but until you get right
up next to the that glass you cannot imagine how subtle and fantastic
his use of color was.

The shop was very nice with a good selection of books on Tiffany, and
the arts and crafts period.  There is a fine book on Tiffany works no
longer available (The Lost Tiffany by McKean) but it was $100, so
somehow I didn't buy it.

Are there any books on his studio, the people working for him, etc?  How
nice he had daddy's money to help set things up so he could afford to
investigate all the various properties of glass and metalwork, but, my,
he had a large streak of curiosity to go along with towering talent.

Anyway, I had a great time, and recommend your going out of your way to
see it.  Incidentally, across the street is a church with more dalle de
verre than I'd ever seen in one place.  Very well done, and you can walk
into the narthex/foyer, and see some of it right up close.

--
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************


--------------817C334B6930C32E78E618FE
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<!doctype html public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en">
<html>
<font face="Times New Roman,Times">Umm - hey people - It's January, we're
none of us getting enough light, it's cold and windy, we've all got the
flu, and February is coming and it's probably even more dreary than January.&nbsp;
So can we all take it somewhat easy on each other?</font>
<p><font face="Times New Roman,Times">I finally got to see the Morse Museum
in Winter Park (Orlando, FL).&nbsp; Long&nbsp; drive from Sarasota (2 hrs
on interstates at 80 mph and TRAFFIC).&nbsp; But it was worth it.&nbsp;
Not a large museum at all, but an intriguing collection of Tiffany.&nbsp;
Unfortunately their La Farge wasn't available for seeing.&nbsp; But I grabbed
a docent and she took me about, and I plied her with a multitude of questions,
some of which she could answer, and some not.&nbsp; They now have a little
publication on Tiffany available only for the staff (written by McKean)
- let us hope they make it available for the rest of us.&nbsp; They also
have a number of paintings and sketches by Tiffany, a little of the jewelry,
and quite a bit of the blown glass.&nbsp; The museum is also concentrated
on the Arts and Crafts period, with some fine pottery and glass and a tiny
bit of furnature.</font>
<p><font face="Times New Roman,Times">It was interesting to see how a piece
started with a fine finished drawing/painting - a finished work of art
in itself, and then see how he/they had reduced it and simplified it so
it would work for stained glass.&nbsp; It was also interesting to see how
3-D many of the things were.&nbsp; Oh, I knew about the layering, but you
don't realize from photos that he has used marbles - huge shooters, regular
ones, tiny ones and blobs of all sizes.&nbsp; And he has faceted them by
beating or hammering, as though they were dalle de verre.&nbsp; He either
cast or slumped lots of pieces into jewels and other shapes and then incorporated
those - not just in the lamps.</font><font face="Times New Roman,Times"></font>
<p><font face="Times New Roman,Times">He also did a lot of 3-D with the
solder or lead lines - the way he has used the came-on-came in the eggplant
panel is wonderful and really gives that ridged effect of the stalks.&nbsp;
Some of the windows were traditionally reinforced, but some had came or
reinforcement set on edge so it was way raised up and an intregral part
of the 3-D design as well as reinforcing the piece.</font><font face="Times New Roman,Times"></font>
<p><font face="Times New Roman,Times">He also had bowed some circular places.&nbsp;
Unfortunately, kinda like Frank Lloyd Wright, he ignored gravity a bit
more than he should have.&nbsp; The docent volunteered that the La Farge
totally lacks these 3-D effects.</font><font face="Times New Roman,Times"></font>
<p><font face="Times New Roman,Times">The "chapel" done for the Chicago
Exposition was impressive, although I guess I expected more, but I guess
it too had been in the fire that originally allowed the Morse to have the
stuff.&nbsp; The whole thing has been re-set-up some 4 or 5 times, and
there was an enormous amount of restoration that had to be done.&nbsp;
My, I wish the guy that headed the restoration would write a book with
all the details he has learned about how things were done.</font><font face="Times New Roman,Times"></font>
<p><font face="Times New Roman,Times">Elisabeth - I remember you commenting
about the cold painting (faces, hands, etc.) on the one window.&nbsp; The
docent pointed that out and said it was very common, expecially in European
stained glass at the time.&nbsp; Americans were more apt to fire their
painting, she said.&nbsp; (Don't know what her source for that was, so
can't tell if it was accurate or not.)</font><font face="Times New Roman,Times"></font>
<p><font face="Times New Roman,Times">I particularly took note of the glass
itself, since he(they) made it to spec - want red/green for swiss chard?
make some.&nbsp; Want pine needles? Throw some black streamers on and fuse.&nbsp;
Want interesting water ? Fuse some flakes.&nbsp; I didn't notice any of
the thick dense opalescent often used in the Victorian type of church/house
windows.&nbsp; His glass mostly was medium when he wanted opacity, and
medium/dense at it's most opaque.&nbsp; But I didn't think he used opaque
much, other than when he wanted white as a color.&nbsp; The docent noted
he often used silver or gold foil backing to the glass - particularly that
used for mosaic work, but that for the "chapel" he actually used aluminium
- cheaper and wouldn't tarnish, and anything gold was&nbsp; painted, again
as a cost measure.</font><font face="Times New Roman,Times"></font>
<p><font face="Times New Roman,Times">He also incorporated river stones,
and sliced, colored and polished marble (sometimes foiled, and sometimes
used some kind of mastic or morter to hold them in pattern).&nbsp; There
is a name for such marble work, but it escapes me.</font><font face="Times New Roman,Times"></font>
<p><font face="Times New Roman,Times">Instead of opalescent, he layered.&nbsp;
I was particularly interested in how he/they did it.&nbsp; I didn't know
if he just layed one piece on top of another and simply soldered at any
join, but the docent said that all the layered pieces were foiled to the
ones on top or below.&nbsp; Not that there was a one-for-one correlation,
but at some edge a whole layer would be completely foiled to that above
or below.</font><font face="Times New Roman,Times"></font>
<p><font face="Times New Roman,Times">Color art photos are wonderful, as
are posters, but until you get right up next to the that glass you cannot
imagine how subtle and fantastic his use of color was.</font>
<p><font face="Times New Roman,Times">The shop was very nice with a good
selection of books on Tiffany, and the arts and crafts period.&nbsp; There
is a fine book on Tiffany works no longer available (The Lost Tiffany by
McKean) but it was $100, so somehow I didn't buy it.</font><font face="Times New Roman,Times"></font>
<p><font face="Times New Roman,Times">Are there any books on his studio,
the people working for him, etc?&nbsp; How nice he had daddy's money to
help set things up so he could afford to investigate all the various properties
of glass and metalwork, but, my, he had a large streak of curiosity to
go along with towering talent.</font><font face="Times New Roman,Times"></font>
<p><font face="Times New Roman,Times">Anyway, I had a great time, and recommend
your going out of your way to see it.&nbsp; Incidentally, across the street
is a church with more dalle de verre than I'd ever seen in one place.&nbsp;
Very well done, and you can walk into the narthex/foyer, and see some of
it right up close.</font>
<p>--
<br>*********************************************************************
<br>*&nbsp; Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood&nbsp; and/or&nbsp; Ralph Bernard
Wood
<br>*&nbsp; Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
<br>*********************************************************************
<br>&nbsp;</html>

--------------817C334B6930C32E78E618FE--

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Please be so kind as to remove my name from your list serve.  Thank you.

Donna

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<font face="Arial,Helvetica"><font size=+1>Please be so kind as to remove
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<br><font face="Arial,Helvetica"><font size=+1>Donna</font></font></html>

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From owner-glass Tue Jan 18 05:54:58 2000
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From: Cecily and Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
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I have no idea why this came up as empty.  Hoping for better luck this
time. - Cec

Cecily and Ralph Wood wrote:

> Umm - hey people - It's January, we're none of us getting enough
> light, it's cold and windy, we've all got the flu, and February is
> coming and it's probably even more dreary than January.  So can we all
> take it somewhat easy on each other?
>
> I finally got to see the Morse Museum in Winter Park (Orlando, FL).
> Long  drive from Sarasota (2 hrs on interstates at 80 mph and
> TRAFFIC).  But it was worth it.  Not a large museum at all, but an
> intriguing collection of Tiffany.  Unfortunately their La Farge wasn't
> available for seeing.  But I grabbed a docent and she took me about,
> and I plied her with a multitude of questions, some of which she could
> answer, and some not.  They now have a little publication on Tiffany
> available only for the staff (written by McKean) - let us hope they
> make it available for the rest of us.  They also have a number of
> paintings and sketches by Tiffany, a little of the jewelry, and quite
> a bit of the blown glass.  The museum is also concentrated on the Arts
> and Crafts period, with some fine pottery and glass and a tiny bit of
> furnature.
>
> It was interesting to see how a piece started with a fine finished
> drawing/painting - a finished work of art in itself, and then see how
> he/they had reduced it and simplified it so it would work for stained
> glass.  It was also interesting to see how 3-D many of the things
> were.  Oh, I knew about the layering, but you don't realize from
> photos that he has used marbles - huge shooters, regular ones, tiny
> ones and blobs of all sizes.  And he has faceted them by beating or
> hammering, as though they were dalle de verre.  He either cast or
> slumped lots of pieces into jewels and other shapes and then
> incorporated those - not just in the lamps.
>
> He also did a lot of 3-D with the solder or lead lines - the way he
> has used the came-on-came in the eggplant panel is wonderful and
> really gives that ridged effect of the stalks.  Some of the windows
> were traditionally reinforced, but some had came or reinforcement set
> on edge so it was way raised up and an intregral part of the 3-D
> design as well as reinforcing the piece.
>
> He also had bowed some circular places.  Unfortunately, kinda like
> Frank Lloyd Wright, he ignored gravity a bit more than he should
> have.  The docent volunteered that the La Farge totally lacks these
> 3-D effects.
>
> The "chapel" done for the Chicago Exposition was impressive, although
> I guess I expected more, but I guess it too had been in the fire that
> originally allowed the Morse to have the stuff.  The whole thing has
> been re-set-up some 4 or 5 times, and there was an enormous amount of
> restoration that had to be done.  My, I wish the guy that headed the
> restoration would write a book with all the details he has learned
> about how things were done.
>
> Elisabeth - I remember you commenting about the cold painting (faces,
> hands, etc.) on the one window.  The docent pointed that out and said
> it was very common, expecially in European stained glass at the time.
> Americans were more apt to fire their painting, she said.  (Don't know
> what her source for that was, so can't tell if it was accurate or
> not.)
>
> I particularly took note of the glass itself, since he(they) made it
> to spec - want red/green for swiss chard? make some.  Want pine
> needles? Throw some black streamers on and fuse.  Want interesting
> water ? Fuse some flakes.  I didn't notice any of the thick dense
> opalescent often used in the Victorian type of church/house windows.
> His glass mostly was medium when he wanted opacity, and medium/dense
> at it's most opaque.  But I didn't think he used opaque much, other
> than when he wanted white as a color.  The docent noted he often used
> silver or gold foil backing to the glass - particularly that used for
> mosaic work, but that for the "chapel" he actually used aluminium -
> cheaper and wouldn't tarnish, and anything gold was  painted, again as
> a cost measure.
>
> He also incorporated river stones, and sliced, colored and polished
> marble (sometimes foiled, and sometimes used some kind of mastic or
> morter to hold them in pattern).  There is a name for such marble
> work, but it escapes me.
>
> Instead of opalescent, he layered.  I was particularly interested in
> how he/they did it.  I didn't know if he just layed one piece on top
> of another and simply soldered at any join, but the docent said that
> all the layered pieces were foiled to the ones on top or below.  Not
> that there was a one-for-one correlation, but at some edge a whole
> layer would be completely foiled to that above or below.
>
> Color art photos are wonderful, as are posters, but until you get
> right up next to the that glass you cannot imagine how subtle and
> fantastic his use of color was.
>
> The shop was very nice with a good selection of books on Tiffany, and
> the arts and crafts period.  There is a fine book on Tiffany works no
> longer available (The Lost Tiffany by McKean) but it was $100, so
> somehow I didn't buy it.
>
> Are there any books on his studio, the people working for him, etc?
> How nice he had daddy's money to help set things up so he could afford
> to investigate all the various properties of glass and metalwork, but,
> my, he had a large streak of curiosity to go along with towering
> talent.
>
> Anyway, I had a great time, and recommend your going out of your way
> to see it.  Incidentally, across the street is a church with more
> dalle de verre than I'd ever seen in one place.  Very well done, and
> you can walk into the narthex/foyer, and see some of it right up
> close.
>
> --
> *********************************************************************
> *  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
> *  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
> *********************************************************************
>

--
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************


--------------A87DB0095A3E314E65EFE83C
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<!doctype html public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en">
<html>
I have no idea why this came up as empty.&nbsp; Hoping for better luck
this time. - Cec
<p>Cecily and Ralph Wood wrote:
<blockquote TYPE=CITE><font face="Times New Roman,Times">Umm - hey people
- It's January, we're none of us getting enough light, it's cold and windy,
we've all got the flu, and February is coming and it's probably even more
dreary than January.&nbsp; So can we all take it somewhat easy on each
other?</font>
<p><font face="Times New Roman,Times">I finally got to see the Morse Museum
in Winter Park (Orlando, FL).&nbsp; Long&nbsp; drive from Sarasota (2 hrs
on interstates at 80 mph and TRAFFIC).&nbsp; But it was worth it.&nbsp;
Not a large museum at all, but an intriguing collection of Tiffany.&nbsp;
Unfortunately their La Farge wasn't available for seeing.&nbsp; But I grabbed
a docent and she took me about, and I plied her with a multitude of questions,
some of which she could answer, and some not.&nbsp; They now have a little
publication on Tiffany available only for the staff (written by McKean)
- let us hope they make it available for the rest of us.&nbsp; They also
have a number of paintings and sketches by Tiffany, a little of the jewelry,
and quite a bit of the blown glass.&nbsp; The museum is also concentrated
on the Arts and Crafts period, with some fine pottery and glass and a tiny
bit of furnature.</font>
<p><font face="Times New Roman,Times">It was interesting to see how a piece
started with a fine finished drawing/painting - a finished work of art
in itself, and then see how he/they had reduced it and simplified it so
it would work for stained glass.&nbsp; It was also interesting to see how
3-D many of the things were.&nbsp; Oh, I knew about the layering, but you
don't realize from photos that he has used marbles - huge shooters, regular
ones, tiny ones and blobs of all sizes.&nbsp; And he has faceted them by
beating or hammering, as though they were dalle de verre.&nbsp; He either
cast or slumped lots of pieces into jewels and other shapes and then incorporated
those - not just in the lamps.</font>
<p><font face="Times New Roman,Times">He also did a lot of 3-D with the
solder or lead lines - the way he has used the came-on-came in the eggplant
panel is wonderful and really gives that ridged effect of the stalks.&nbsp;
Some of the windows were traditionally reinforced, but some had came or
reinforcement set on edge so it was way raised up and an intregral part
of the 3-D design as well as reinforcing the piece.</font>
<p><font face="Times New Roman,Times">He also had bowed some circular places.&nbsp;
Unfortunately, kinda like Frank Lloyd Wright, he ignored gravity a bit
more than he should have.&nbsp; The docent volunteered that the La Farge
totally lacks these 3-D effects.</font>
<p><font face="Times New Roman,Times">The "chapel" done for the Chicago
Exposition was impressive, although I guess I expected more, but I guess
it too had been in the fire that originally allowed the Morse to have the
stuff.&nbsp; The whole thing has been re-set-up some 4 or 5 times, and
there was an enormous amount of restoration that had to be done.&nbsp;
My, I wish the guy that headed the restoration would write a book with
all the details he has learned about how things were done.</font>
<p><font face="Times New Roman,Times">Elisabeth - I remember you commenting
about the cold painting (faces, hands, etc.) on the one window.&nbsp; The
docent pointed that out and said it was very common, expecially in European
stained glass at the time.&nbsp; Americans were more apt to fire their
painting, she said.&nbsp; (Don't know what her source for that was, so
can't tell if it was accurate or not.)</font>
<p><font face="Times New Roman,Times">I particularly took note of the glass
itself, since he(they) made it to spec - want red/green for swiss chard?
make some.&nbsp; Want pine needles? Throw some black streamers on and fuse.&nbsp;
Want interesting water ? Fuse some flakes.&nbsp; I didn't notice any of
the thick dense opalescent often used in the Victorian type of church/house
windows.&nbsp; His glass mostly was medium when he wanted opacity, and
medium/dense at it's most opaque.&nbsp; But I didn't think he used opaque
much, other than when he wanted white as a color.&nbsp; The docent noted
he often used silver or gold foil backing to the glass - particularly that
used for mosaic work, but that for the "chapel" he actually used aluminium
- cheaper and wouldn't tarnish, and anything gold was&nbsp; painted, again
as a cost measure.</font>
<p><font face="Times New Roman,Times">He also incorporated river stones,
and sliced, colored and polished marble (sometimes foiled, and sometimes
used some kind of mastic or morter to hold them in pattern).&nbsp; There
is a name for such marble work, but it escapes me.</font>
<p><font face="Times New Roman,Times">Instead of opalescent, he layered.&nbsp;
I was particularly interested in how he/they did it.&nbsp; I didn't know
if he just layed one piece on top of another and simply soldered at any
join, but the docent said that all the layered pieces were foiled to the
ones on top or below.&nbsp; Not that there was a one-for-one correlation,
but at some edge a whole layer would be completely foiled to that above
or below.</font>
<p><font face="Times New Roman,Times">Color art photos are wonderful, as
are posters, but until you get right up next to the that glass you cannot
imagine how subtle and fantastic his use of color was.</font>
<p><font face="Times New Roman,Times">The shop was very nice with a good
selection of books on Tiffany, and the arts and crafts period.&nbsp; There
is a fine book on Tiffany works no longer available (The Lost Tiffany by
McKean) but it was $100, so somehow I didn't buy it.</font>
<p><font face="Times New Roman,Times">Are there any books on his studio,
the people working for him, etc?&nbsp; How nice he had daddy's money to
help set things up so he could afford to investigate all the various properties
of glass and metalwork, but, my, he had a large streak of curiosity to
go along with towering talent.</font>
<p><font face="Times New Roman,Times">Anyway, I had a great time, and recommend
your going out of your way to see it.&nbsp; Incidentally, across the street
is a church with more dalle de verre than I'd ever seen in one place.&nbsp;
Very well done, and you can walk into the narthex/foyer, and see some of
it right up close.</font>
<p>--
<br>*********************************************************************
<br>*&nbsp; Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood&nbsp; and/or&nbsp; Ralph Bernard
Wood
<br>*&nbsp; Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
<br>*********************************************************************
<br>&nbsp;</blockquote>

<p>--
<br>*********************************************************************
<br>*&nbsp; Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood&nbsp; and/or&nbsp; Ralph Bernard
Wood
<br>*&nbsp; Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
<br>*********************************************************************
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From owner-glass Tue Jan 18 06:55:11 2000
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From: Trace <borealis@uswest.net>
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Subject: test
Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 08:29:01 -0600
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....we interrupt the current thread to conduct this
test....this is only a test...should this be a real
emergency you would be given further instructions....we now
return you to the thread already in progress...thanks!

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From: rrk <ezbongo2@pacbell.net>
To: Bungi Group <glass@bungi.com>
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Subject: Intolerance
Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 07:29:15 -0800
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Hi folks,

It is elementary netiquette that a person's signature file, no matter
what is in it (other than profanity and/or vulgar language), is not
considered to be part of the email and not to be responded to.  Anybo=
dy
can put anything they want in their signature file =85 and its OK bec=
ause
the signature file automatically appended to every email prepared by =
the
person is NOT a part of the email.

It is also elementary netiquette that off-topic discussions
(particularly those involving politics or religion) are to take place
OFF-THE-LIST.

These two points do not seem clear to everyone so I'm spelling it out=
 in
an unambiguous (I hope) manner.

Here in the USA, yesterday was a holiday, the Rev. Dr. Martin Luther
King, Jr.'s birthday.  This man was one of the many great people this
country has produced.  Without doubt he was the single most influenti=
al
Christian of the 20th Century, certainly in this part of the world he
was.  Many people either overlook or conveniently forget that Dr. Kin=
g
was, before everything else, a man of faith, a man of the cloth, and =
a
follower of Jesus of Nazareth.  It was for the application of his fai=
th
to one of the USA's major societal problems that he is remembered and
honored once a year on his birthday.

Yesterday both Tom from North Carolina and Howard provided excellent
examples of intolerance.  The religious intolerance demonstrated by T=
om
and Howard was clear-cut and unambiguous.  I would like to thank both=
 of
them for providing us with this excellent example of intolerance so
demonstrative of just how far we still have to go.  This poignant
example was most timely coming as it did on Dr. King's birthday.

Both Tom and Howard otherwise seem to be good men, eager to please, a=
nd
very helpful ... I guess we all have our moments eh?  <G>

Now =85 could we please kindly get back to the main topic of this lis=
t =85
glass?

Best regards to all =85=85=85. Bob Kerr

PS ... Congratulations to the both of you, Glenna and Dave.  Actually=
,
having had 4 of the little beasts ... errr ... little angels I mean <=
G>
=2E..... I should offer my condolences since life as you knew it will
cease on the birth of the child ... you'll see <smile>.  BTW, whats
wrong with 'Robert' as a first name?   LOL  Sorry these congratulatio=
ns
are late, I was away, and then not in the mood for correspondence (lo=
ng
story that doesn't need telling here).



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X-Path: aol.com!LMCCDC
From: LMCCDC@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: bathroom window
Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 10:42:56 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk


I know this question has been asked before but for some reason I missed the 
responses. So, sorry for the duplication.  I am going to do a window in a 
bathroom that is over a bathtub that also has a shower in it.  How do I 
protect the leaded glass?  Thanks, Lisa MC
----
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From owner-glass Tue Jan 18 10:31:19 2000
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X-Path: aol.com!Awbaxter
From: Awbaxter@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: putty - mineral spirits vs. turpentine
Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 13:14:50 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

I know we've discussed the various components of putty recipes, inlcuding 
whiting (vs. cement vs. plaster of paris),  linseed oil (boiled vs. raw) and 
lamp black, but I would like to know the difference in the quality of the 
putty when the mixture has either mineral spirits or turps added to it.  I am 
not refering the dangers of the flammable material or the inhalation of it... 
more to the point of the effectiveness of the putty itself.  Does one cause 
the putty to harden faster?  or harder? Clean up easier? Are they 
interchangeable?  Does it matter at all?  

Hope this is not redundant... I've read months of archives on putty, and 
didn't see this, and could not answer it myself when asked.  (I hate it when 
that happens!)

Thanks. 
Ann
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From owner-glass Tue Jan 18 11:30:10 2000
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X-Path: compuserve.com!GreerStudios
From: Dani Greer <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: In your face, crap
Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 14:02:08 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Oh, good!  Here we go again....
all the bozos who can't contribute to
a glass conversation are going to jump
on the band wagon now and start a =

flame fest.  <sigh> Can't you contribute
something meaningful?... Like holding
up your end of the conversation???
Pertaining to glass, that is! :-(

Dani Greer
Greer Gallery & Studios
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From owner-glass Tue Jan 18 11:30:23 2000
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X-Path: vnet.net!thomm
From: "Tom" <thomm@vnet.net>
To: "rrk" <ezbongo2@pacbell.net>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Intolerance?  B...S...!
Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 14:04:12 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
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Intolerant?  Bull!

All I suggested was a *neutral* ground we could all agree on.  You are
EXACTLY the type of person who should be reigned in, in my honest
*opinion*, of course.

Just who do you think you are anyway?  Who ever made you judge and jury
concerning 'netiquette'?  You are a jerk.

I just might be "intolerant", that is I'm very "intolerant" of b...s...
like yours.  I hate it when people "just like you" (do you know Linda
Tripp?  I'm sure you do) think they are created God's and love
themselves too dearly to even give a damn about how other people feel.

Intolerant?  Yeah, YOU take the first prize, Bud!

Tom in NC - close to Billy G, of course you know him, too, right?

----- Original Message -----
From: "rrk" <ezbongo2@pacbell.net>
To: "Bungi Group" <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 18, 2000 10:29 AM
Subject: Intolerance


:
: Hi folks,
:
: It is elementary netiquette that a person's signature file, no matter
: what is in it (other than profanity and/or vulgar language), is not
: considered to be part of the email and not to be responded to.  Anybo=
: dy
: can put anything they want in their signature file =85 and its OK bec=
: ause
: the signature file automatically appended to every email prepared by =
: the
: person is NOT a part of the email.
:
: It is also elementary netiquette that off-topic discussions
: (particularly those involving politics or religion) are to take place
: OFF-THE-LIST.
:
: These two points do not seem clear to everyone so I'm spelling it out=
:  in
: an unambiguous (I hope) manner.
:
: Here in the USA, yesterday was a holiday, the Rev. Dr. Martin Luther
: King, Jr.'s birthday.  This man was one of the many great people this
: country has produced.  Without doubt he was the single most influenti=
: al
: Christian of the 20th Century, certainly in this part of the world he
: was.  Many people either overlook or conveniently forget that Dr. Kin=
: g
: was, before everything else, a man of faith, a man of the cloth, and =
: a
: follower of Jesus of Nazareth.  It was for the application of his fai=
: th
: to one of the USA's major societal problems that he is remembered and
: honored once a year on his birthday.
:
: Yesterday both Tom from North Carolina and Howard provided excellent
: examples of intolerance.  The religious intolerance demonstrated by T=
: om
: and Howard was clear-cut and unambiguous.  I would like to thank both=
:  of
: them for providing us with this excellent example of intolerance so
: demonstrative of just how far we still have to go.  This poignant
: example was most timely coming as it did on Dr. King's birthday.
:
: Both Tom and Howard otherwise seem to be good men, eager to please, a=
: nd
: very helpful ... I guess we all have our moments eh?  <G>
:
: Now =85 could we please kindly get back to the main topic of this lis=
: t =85
: glass?
:
: Best regards to all =85=85=85. Bob Kerr
:
: PS ... Congratulations to the both of you, Glenna and Dave.  Actually=
: ,
: having had 4 of the little beasts ... errr ... little angels I mean <=
: G>
: =2E..... I should offer my condolences since life as you knew it will
: cease on the birth of the child ... you'll see <smile>.  BTW, whats
: wrong with 'Robert' as a first name?   LOL  Sorry these congratulatio=
: ns
: are late, I was away, and then not in the mood for correspondence (lo=
: ng
: story that doesn't need telling here).
:
:
:
: ----
: For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
: To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
: Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
:

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From owner-glass Tue Jan 18 12:30:21 2000
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From: Sharon Milliken <wwstamps@home.com>
To: "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: In your Face
Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 14:57:11 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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You Said it well Dani...Thanks. If you don't like the "crap", don't read
it..or do as I do..just keep moving on..Let's hear more about glass
please.Sharon in SC
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From owner-glass Tue Jan 18 13:30:50 2000
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From: Joseph Augusta <jaugusta@ply.adelphia.net>
To: Sharon Milliken <wwstamps@home.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: In your Face
Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 16:06:46 -0500
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Sharon Milliken wrote:
> 
> You Said it well Dani...Thanks. If you don't like the "crap", 

I, for one, don't like this language, for or against.

Best wishes,
Joseph
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From owner-glass Tue Jan 18 14:01:54 2000
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: LMCCDC@aol.com
Subject: Re: bathroom window
Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 21:21:42 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk

Internal secondary glazing seems to be a good idea.  It needs to be
safety glass, as it is in a dangerous room (lots of accidents in
bathrooms).  The glazing should be ventilated to avoid condensation.

Alternatively, get a local double glazing firm to encase the leaded
window in a double glazed unit.  Take their advice on the kinds of
cement used, as some units do not like linseed oil.

Steve

In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, LMCCDC@aol.com writes
>
>I know this question has been asked before but for some reason I missed the 
>responses. So, sorry for the duplication.  I am going to do a window in a 
>bathroom that is over a bathtub that also has a shower in it.  How do I 
>protect the leaded glass?  Thanks, Lisa MC
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Tue Jan 18 14:04:27 2000
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From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Awbaxter@aol.com
Subject: Re: putty - mineral spirits vs. turpentine
Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 21:33:59 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk

I'll give you my opinion.
        Do not use plaster of Paris ever.
        Do not use raw linseed oil.  Boiled linseed oil (actually
refined, as it is never boiled) has the elements which do not make
polymer chains removed.  Raw linseed oil takes a very very long time to
cure and stiffen.
        I experimented once by eliminating the mineral spirits and using
only linseed oil.  The resulting cement looked like the regular stuff,
it flowed like the regular stuff, but it took a tremendous amount of
whiting to "dry" it, and it took very long to set.
        So, I recommend that you avoid adding any oily substances (like
turpentine) to the cement, as the evaporation rate is so much slower
than the spirit.  The other side to this is that the cement hardens in
the bucket much quicker too.
        The setting or curing of the cement is not to achieve a
hardness.  If we wanted that we would include plaster of Paris.  The
point is to get a stiff, waterproof, long lasting substance into the
calme which will cushion the glass by remaining slightly flexible for a
long number of years.  Linseed oil cement has been proved over
centuries.  Rubber sealants do not have the same lengthy testing period,
they are much more difficult to clean, etc.

Hope this meets some of the queries.

Steve

In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, Awbaxter@aol.com writes
>I know we've discussed the various components of putty recipes, inlcuding 
>whiting (vs. cement vs. plaster of paris),  linseed oil (boiled vs. raw) and 
>lamp black, but I would like to know the difference in the quality of the 
>putty when the mixture has either mineral spirits or turps added to it.  I am 
>not refering the dangers of the flammable material or the inhalation of it... 
>more to the point of the effectiveness of the putty itself.  Does one cause 
>the putty to harden faster?  or harder? Clean up easier? Are they 
>interchangeable?  Does it matter at all?  

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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X-Path: mtcon.net!shigbee
From: "Shari" <shigbee@mtcon.net>
To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Need design help on sidelight
Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 15:24:48 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

I have a sidelight by the front door that I'm dying to do something with.
Right now it's that lovely amber flemish(?) glass--and it needs to go.
However, I'm stumped on design ideas.

The size is bad--it's about 48" high, but only 7 1/2" wide. That seems too
narrow to be able to do much with.

I need to use something besides a bevel cluster because of privacy. (If I
could just get the hubby to keep his darn clothes on... not to mention the
times we check to see who's at the door and then pretend to not be home...)

We just redecorated the house in bright colors and a Caribbean motif--I'd
love something with birds of paradise or something like that, but it's so
narrow..

Anyone have any ideas on how to use that odd shaped space and still get
color and privacy?

Shari in SLC



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From owner-glass Tue Jan 18 15:31:35 2000
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From: "Shari" <shigbee@mtcon.net>
To: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie_Spitzer@stratus.com>,
Subject: Re: Need design help on sidelight
Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 16:25:05 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<75F036A5970CD311A993009027283DC45261F0@exphx.az.stratus.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Charlie--I like the concept. What would you use for background glass, seeing
as how I can't use clear...?
Shari



> vines with hibiscus flowers.
>
> i made something similar for someone. it was vines with blue and red
trumpet
> flowers, with hummingbirds drinking from some of the flowers.
>



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From owner-glass Tue Jan 18 15:34:53 2000
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From: Dani Greer <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: "Shari" <shigbee@mtcon.net>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Need design help on sidelight
Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 18:16:32 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Message text written by "Shari"
>Anyone have any ideas on how to use that odd shaped space and still get
color and privacy?
<

Opalescent glass and a narrow view of the =

sea, a sunset, and perhaps a palm tree?
Or a boat?  Or maybe just a vine of tropical
foliage? Are there decorative motifs peculiar
to the Caribbean that could be incorporated?
Or some pattern that is used somewhere else
in your house that could be adapted to S.G.?
Just a few thoughts....

Best regards,

Dani Greer
Greer Gallery & Studios
www.igga.org/greer/
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From: Sharon Milliken <wwstamps@home.com>
To: "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re:in your face.
Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 18:19:25 -0500
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I guess I have to apologize and explain to everyone that the offensive
word was not mine to begin with and I put it in Quotations for that very
reason. This is getting to be quite maddening to the point that I do not
enjoy nor have the time for this type of banter.
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From: Dani Greer <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: Sharon Milliken <wwstamps@home.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re:in your face.
Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 19:19:59 -0500
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Message text written by Sharon Milliken
>This is getting to be quite maddening to the point that I do not
enjoy nor have the time for this type of banter.<

Not to mention that the administrator has shut
down the list in the past for precisely this type =

of "banter"... let's put it to rest and talk about
glass, please.... or something potentially related
like art, design, colors, history, creativity, etc.

Best regards,

Dani Greer
Greer Gallery & Studios
www.igga.org/greer/  =

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From owner-glass Tue Jan 18 17:00:48 2000
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From: "Tom" <thomm@vnet.net>
To: "Sharon Milliken" <wwstamps@home.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: In your Face
Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 18:51:18 -0500
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I'll drink to that, Sharon!  (Can I say that at least without being
pelted by the bible thumpers?)

I've never read nor heard from most of the very few and far between that
got their undies in a wad over "in your face" posts.  Those few people
really need to get a life.  Perhaps they should hang their hats
elsewhere as most of them don't even contribute to any stained glass
discussions, or they are just nosey and are hoping that somehow their
lives will be enriched by 'watching' others communicate about the arts
and stained glass in particular.

For any true artist, the simple word "crap" should not even raise an
eyebrow.  Surely they've seen amateurish "crap" that was being sold as
"art" before.  Or, maybe they've done 'crappy' work themselves that they
considered "art" and someone once told them that their work was "crap".
I know "crap" when I see it and I'm sure there are plenty of others who
do, too.

The complainers of the my use of the word "crap" must lead pitiful
lives, never watch anything that might mentally engaging or God forbid
stimulating.  There's another word that should tick some more of the
self imposed upper echelon of the artist society, "stimulating".
hahahaha!

I do know that lots of the art I've seen and really admired, also
"stimulated" me in lots of ways! ;)

Tom - in NC who had only a few private nasty posts from those that must
live under the same rock, out of the mainstream of life.  What a
"crappy" existence and sheltered life they must lead if the simple word
"crap" offends them.  Maybe I should have used a stronger word they
wouldn't have any trouble understanding?  Next time.


From: "Sharon Milliken" <wwstamps@home.com>

: You Said it well Dani...Thanks. If you don't like the "crap", don't
read
: it..or do as I do..just keep moving on..Let's hear more about glass
: please.Sharon in SC


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From owner-glass Tue Jan 18 18:00:35 2000
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From: Cecily and Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Subject: 3rd try or Morse Museum
Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 20:37:50 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Organization: Grendel Studios
Precedence: bulk


3rd try

I installed a bunch of programs over the last 2 weeks while I was brain
dead from the flu/pneumonia/whatever.  I suspect Adobe's upgrade to
Adobe Type Manager because even the screen font doesn't look right -
looks like a bad typewriter - good for a murder solving but not the
eyes.  Thanks to those of you who gave me feedback.

2nd try - came up partially blank (and I never received it back from
Bunji at all)
I have no idea why this came up as empty. Hoping for better luck this
time. - Cec
1st try - came up blank
Cecily and Ralph Wood wrote:

 Umm - hey people - It's January, we're none of us getting enough light,
it's cold and windy, we've all got the  flu, and February is coming and
it's probably even more dreary than January. So can we all take it
somewhat  easy on each other?

 I finally got to see the Morse Museum in Winter Park (Orlando, FL).
Long drive from Sarasota (2 hrs on  interstates at 80 mph and TRAFFIC).
But it was worth it. Not a large museum at all, but an intriguing
collection of Tiffany. Unfortunately their La Farge wasn't available for
seeing. But I grabbed a docent and  she took me about, and I plied her
with a multitude of questions, some of which she could answer, and some
not. They now have a little publication on Tiffany available only for
the staff (written by McKean) - let us  hope they make it available for
the rest of us. They also have a number of paintings and sketches by
Tiffany,  a little of the jewelry, and quite a bit of the blown glass.
The museum is also concentrated on the Arts and  Crafts period, with
some fine pottery and glass and a tiny bit of furnature.

 It was interesting to see how a piece started with a fine finished
drawing/painting - a finished work of art in  itself, and then see how
he/they had reduced it and simplified it so it would work for stained
glass. It was  also interesting to see how 3-D many of the things were.
Oh, I knew about the layering, but you don't realize  from photos that
he has used marbles - huge shooters, regular ones, tiny ones and blobs
of all sizes. And he has  faceted them by beating or hammering, as
though they were dalle de verre. He either cast or slumped lots of
pieces into jewels and other shapes and then incorporated those - not
just in the lamps.

 He also did a lot of 3-D with the solder or lead lines - the way he has
used the came-on-came in the eggplant  panel is wonderful and really
gives that ridged effect of the stalks. Some of the windows were
traditionally  reinforced, but some had came or reinforcement set on
edge so it was way raised up and an intregral part of  the 3-D design as
well as reinforcing the piece.

 He also had bowed some circular places. Unfortunately, kinda like Frank
Lloyd Wright, he ignored gravity a  bit more than he should have. The
docent volunteered that the La Farge totally lacks these 3-D effects.

 The "chapel" done for the Chicago Exposition was impressive, although I
guess I expected more, but I guess it  too had been in the fire that
originally allowed the Morse to have the stuff. The whole thing has
been  re-set-up some 4 or 5 times, and there was an enormous amount of
restoration that had to be done. My, I  wish the guy that headed the
restoration would write a book with all the details he has learned about
how  things were done.

 Elisabeth - I remember you commenting about the cold painting (faces,
hands, etc.) on the one window. The  docent pointed that out and said it
was very common, expecially in European stained glass at the time.
Americans were more apt to fire their painting, she said. (Don't know
what her source for that was, so can't  tell if it was accurate or not.)

 I particularly took note of the glass itself, since he(they) made it to
spec - want red/green for swiss chard?  make some. Want pine needles?
Throw some black streamers on and fuse. Want interesting water ? Fuse
some flakes. I didn't notice any of the thick dense opalescent often
used in the Victorian type of church/house  windows. His glass mostly
was medium when he wanted opacity, and medium/dense at it's most opaque.
But  I didn't think he used opaque much, other than when he wanted white
as a color. The docent noted he often  used silver or gold foil backing
to the glass - particularly that used for mosaic work, but that for the
"chapel" he  actually used aluminium - cheaper and wouldn't tarnish, and
anything gold was painted, again as a cost  measure.

 He also incorporated river stones, and sliced, colored and polished
marble (sometimes foiled, and sometimes  used some kind of mastic or
morter to hold them in pattern). There is a name for such marble work,
but it  escapes me.

 Instead of opalescent, he layered. I was particularly interested in how
he/they did it. I didn't know if he just  layed one piece on top of
another and simply soldered at any join, but the docent said that all
the layered  pieces were foiled to the ones on top or below. Not that
there was a one-for-one correlation, but at some edge  a whole layer
would be completely foiled to that above or below.

 Color art photos are wonderful, as are posters, but until you get right
up next to the that glass you cannot  imagine how subtle and fantastic
his use of color was.

 The shop was very nice with a good selection of books on Tiffany, and
the arts and crafts period. There is a  fine book on Tiffany works no
longer available (The Lost Tiffany by McKean) but it was $100, so
somehow I  didn't buy it.

 Are there any books on his studio, the people working for him, etc? How
nice he had daddy's money to help  set things up so he could afford to
investigate all the various properties of glass and metalwork, but, my,
he  had a large streak of curiosity to go along with towering talent.

 Anyway, I had a great time, and recommend your going out of your way to
see it. Incidentally, across the  street is a church with more dalle de
verre than I'd ever seen in one place. Very well done, and you can walk
into the narthex/foyer, and see some of it right up close.

--
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************


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From owner-glass Tue Jan 18 19:00:44 2000
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Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 21:56:41 EST
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I received this little joke thing just today... It sort of fits, so i thought 
i'd pass it along.  
(just for the record.  I belive in God.. Believe in Christ His son, and I 
don't like those messages, either.)
Anne

> 
>  A blonde is pushed into a gas station in her new BMW.
>  The mechanic asks, "What's the matter?" 
>  She says, "It just conked out."
>  After he works on it for a few minutes, it's purring like a kitten. 
>  She says, "What's the story?"
>  He says, "Crap in the carburetor." 
>  She says, "How often do I have to do that?"


--part1_9.11073c0.25b681e9_boundary
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Return-path: Burke2325@aol.com
From: Burke2325@aol.com
Full-name: Burke2325
Message-ID: <60.69e425.25b628e2@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 15:36:50 EST
Subject: Misc. Humor
To: Krisdave3@aol.com, jeburke@stthomas.edu, mvb@tcinternet.net,
	tburke@corvis.com, THOSBURKE@aol.com, bobvano@glccomputers.com,
	bdavid@citrus.in, SFer719408@aol.com, Laurence.M.Burke@Travelers.com,
	LBURKE6652@cs.com, peter.w.burke@am.pnu.com, REGSW@aol.com,
	Kimshee97@aol.com, MATRONA@aol.com, <ncarter1@ix.netcom.com>,
	<gloria.culp@wmich.edu>(work), G0blet@cs.com,
	<kenneth.reid@wmich.edu>, jessicakim<jkim@umbc.edu>,
	<wright@peabody.jhu.edu>, <treash1028@the-i.net>,
	Kropp<thoran@hkg.net>, SportsJMP@aol.com,
	<anne.f.vosters@am.pnu.com>, <william.s.gladstone@am.pnu.com>,
	<steven.k.macleod@am.pnu.com>, <jeffrey.a.fleming@am.pnu.com>,
	<suemusic@prodigy.net>
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
X-Mailer: Windows AOL sub 45

A blonde is pushed into a gas station in her new BMW.
The mechanic asks, "What's the matter?" 
She says, "It just conked out."
After he works on it for a few minutes, it's purring like a kitten. 
She says, "What's the story?"
He says, "Crap in the carburetor." 
She says, "How often do I have to do that?"
******************************************************************************
********************
"If I had been present at creation, I would have given some useful hints." - 
Alfonso the Wise (1221-1284)
******************************************************************************
********************
The following is an excerpt from the July 1943 issue of Transportation  
Magazine.  This was serious and written for male supervisors of women in the 
work force during World War II - a mere 56 years ago!
  
Obviously, the intent was not to be "funny," but by today's standards, this 
is hilarious! For those of you with efficiency issues, pay attention to #8.
  
Eleven Tips on Getting More Efficiency Out of Women Employees: 
  
There's no longer any question whether transit companies should hire women 
for jobs formerly held by men. The draft and manpower shortage has settled 
that point.  The important things now are to select the most efficient women 
available and how to use them to the best advantage.
  
Here are eleven helpful tips on the subject from Western Properties:
  
1. Pick young married women. They usually have more of a sense of  
responsibility than their unmarried sisters,  they're less likely to be 
flirtatious, they need the work or they wouldn't be doing it, they still have 
the pep and interest to work hard and to deal with the public efficiently.
2. When you have to use older women, try to get ones who have worked outside 
the home at some time in their lives. Older women who have never contacted 
the public have a hard time adapting themselves and are inclined to be 
cantankerous and fussy.  It's always well to impress upon older women the 
importance of friendliness and courtesy.
3. General experience indicates that "husky" girls - those who are just a 
little on the heavy side - are more even tempered and efficient than their 
underweight sisters.
4. Retain a physician to give each woman you hire a special physical 
examination - one covering female conditions. This step not only protects the 
property against the possibilities of lawsuit, but reveals whether the 
employee-to-be has any female weaknesses which would make her mentally or 
physically unfit for the job.
5. Stress at the outset the importance of time the fact that a minute or two 
lost here and there makes serious inroads on schedules. Until this point is 
gotten across, service is likely to be slowed up.
6. Give the female employee a definite day-long schedule of duties so that 
they'll keep busy without bothering the management for instructions every few 
minutes.  Numerous properties say that women make excellent workers when they 
have their jobs cut out for them, but that they lack initiative in finding 
work themselves.
7. Whenever possible, let the inside employee change from one job to another 
at some  time during the day.  Women are inclined to be less nervous and 
happier with change.
8. Give every girl an adequate number of rest periods during the day.  You 
have to make some allowances for feminine psychology.  A girl has more 
confidence and is more efficient if she can keep her hair tidied, apply fresh 
lipstick and wash her hands several times a day.
9. Be tactful when issuing instructions or in making criticisms.  Women  are 
often sensitive; they can't shrug off harsh words the way men do.  Never 
ridicule a woman - it breaks her spirit and cuts off her efficiency.
10. Be reasonably considerate about using strong language around women.  Even 
though a girl's husband or father may swear  vociferously, she'll grow to 
dislike a place of business where she  hears too much of this.
11. Get enough size variety in operator's uniforms so that each girl can have 
a proper fit. This point can't be stressed too much in  keeping women happy.
******************************************************************************
********************
"The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has its limits."    
Unknown
******************************************************************************
********************
Thoughts for today:
They call it PMS because Mad Cow Disease was already taken.  
The Dark Ages Was Caused by the Y1K problem. 
What happens if you get scared half to death twice? 
Am I ambivalent?   Well, yes and no.
If you think there is good in everybody then you obviously haven't met 
everybody.
If your feet smell and your nose runs, you're built upside down.
Gargling is a good way to see if your throat leaks.
Suicidal twin kills sister by mistake.
Failure Is Not An Option. It's bundled with your software. 
If a thing is worth doing wouldn't it have been done already? 
Ham and Eggs. Just a day's work for a chicken but a lifetime commitment for a 
pig.
******************************************************************************
********************
"This poem will never reach its destination."  Voltaire (1694-1778) on 
Rousseau's Ode to Posterity
******************************************************************************
********************




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From owner-glass Tue Jan 18 22:02:35 2000
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X-Path: home.com!cecnralph
From: Cecily and Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Subject: 3rd try or blank messages [ng]
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 00:51:54 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Organization: Grendel Studios
Precedence: bulk

OK - let me propose some ideas and let's see if we can narrow down why
we are constantly having this problem (which doesn't happen on the other
lists I belong to).

For one thing - I use the latest Netscape, and yet I could not read the
first message except for the header, and I didn't even GET the 2nd.  So
I think whatever happens is somehow influenced by either the Bungi
server, or by Bungi's ISP's software, since I never see this on other
lists.  (After two weeks out sick, I downloaded 1,445 emails at work
into Netscape on a Mac and not one had that problem - that is from about
8 technical listservs.)

1st try:

The font showing for my message was not good - odd spacing, ugly and I
think one of the new software packages is either having an init
conflict, a font conflict, or just jimmied my Netscape settings.  While
I was writing the message, I was fiddling around with fonts, etc.,
trying to get it to look right.  I rarely do that on the KISS principal
- keep it simple stupid.  Although I send in both text and html, unless
I'm sending to someone on a Mac with html capabilities (my mother), I
don't use the html editing much.  For a similar reason, I do not use
MIME since very few older mail programs, or programs on main frames and
minis can handle it.  So...does Bungi not like html, except for linking?
(HTML is the HyperText Markup Language that turned the internet into the
web - with the ability to link from one place in a document to another,
or link from one document to another document - anywhere.)  More
questions - if so, why didn't Netscape also send a text version, since
that is how it is set up? Or why didn't Bungi receive/recognize the text
version if Netscape sent it?

2nd try:

When I got the blank message, I went into Sent Mail, and forwarded my
copy of the original mailing - with the brief explanation at the top.
Thus, any fiddling with text editing in HTML would still have been
embedded in the message.  BUT WHY DIDN'T I GET THAT MESSAGE AT ALL?

3rd try:

I copied the text from the Sent Mail version, pasted it into a word
processor, and changed it to a readable font.  I also went into the
Netscape Prefs and chose a similar but more readable default font.  Then
I copied and pasted into Netscape my word processor document.  Then I
sent that.  The problem went away.

Further thoughts - rarely in Bungi, but often in the other lists, I will
get a *word* or =52 some other =25 wierdity.  I don't think those are
mime characters, but I do think they are a type of html.  People using
more advanced html (I forget what it is called), maybe using Eudora,
seem to generate these kinds of problems for me, but I can cause that
kind of problem with people using older versions of Netscape or Outlook
Express when I send only in html.  This leads me to conclude that there
is an anomaly in Bungi's handling of html.

However, it should also be a lesson to us all to make our email as
simplistic as possible, with no changing of fonts, no coloring text, no
special inserted ASCII characters, no html, etc.

So - do I have something here, or not?

--
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************


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From owner-glass Tue Jan 18 22:33:24 2000
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From: Shirley <sparent@kootenay.com>
To: Glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Need help with first lamp
Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 21:30:17 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hi all,

I have just finished my first lamp and though I have a lot, and I mean a
lot to learn it is definitely passable for a first try.  I live in a small
town without access to classes so am self taught from books and can't
always find the answers to questions I have so thought maybe some of you
might be able to help me.  The first question I have is on tinning the vase
caps.  This lamp called for a 6" one and I had a lot of trouble given the
heat sink problem.  The books all tell me to use my soldering iron though I
couldn't seem to generate enough heat to get a smooth finish.  I am using a
Weller 100.
The second question I have is about the wire reinforcement around the
bottom edge.  Exactly what purpose does this serve and how important is it
that you put it on and what is the best gauge of wire to use?
As an aside I just want to tell you Cecily and Ralph how much I enjoyed
your Morse Museum piece.  My girlfriend who is an avid potter and always
lurking through the second hand book stores found "The Lost Treasures of
Louis Comfort Tiffany" by Hugh McLean and gave it to me for Christmas in
'98.  It has become a treasured possession and I can spend hours pouring
over it and would love to one day be able to see some of works of the
Tiffany Studios.  We don't own too much of it in rural British Columbia.  
Thanks in advance

Shirley

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From owner-glass Tue Jan 18 22:35:24 2000
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From: Cecily and Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
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Subject: Signatures [ng]
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 01:18:28 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Organization: Grendel Studios
Precedence: bulk

I rarely see signatures on Bungi messages, but they are endemic on the
technical lists.  An example of a signature is the asterisks and my
husband's and my name, etc. at the end of our messages.  I suspect many
non technical people don't even know they have that capability.  I don't
sit here and type ****** every time.  You create a tiny file that is
just the signature, and then you tell your email package to use that at
the bottom of your messages.  Netscape only allows one, but eMailer
allowed me to have more than one and specify which one would be the
default signature and which ones were to be used for certain addresses.
Some also allow you to have a number of signatures and it randomly
selects which ones get sent.

People with the latter capability load it up with funny sayings, usually
aphorisms.  Others often put something that reflects who they are (or
wannabe), and even those who put funny sayings on are defining
themselves.  In my case, we had to put something there that both my
husband and I weren't embarrassed about.

Over the years, I have created a pretty hefty document I call "Funny
Ends" in which I copy those signatures that tickle me.  I also started a
list of the ones that irk me, but since I didn't think they were worth
saving, it's a pretty tiny list.

Some people use fixed width fonts to create text pictures - a kind of
"Leroy was here".  (Aw - you're all too young to know what that is,
aren't you?)  However that only looks good for people who don't use
proportional type and most of use do use it.

I know of no list that prohibits signatures, although I do know that the
listmoms have asked certain people to change their signatures.  In most
instances, though, it has been the length of the signature, padding the
messages, that triggered such behavior, not content.  However, most
lists also have certain words that are prohibited.  Normally such things
as swear words, some of the Anglo Saxen body functions, etc. are usually
off limits.  However, on the Mac-List the word "virus" is actually
prohibited.  This filters out the enormous load of hysterical
the-sky-is-falling virus hoax mail.  Those of us on the list know to
write *virus* for serious discussions.

--
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************


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From owner-glass Wed Jan 19 00:46:29 2000
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From: "D&K JANSEN" <jansen1@the-beach.net>
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Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 03:12:55 -0500
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   =20
one day i'm on and the next i'm not!  can you tell me why and help me =
get back?

kate

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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D4>one day i'm on and the next i'm not!&nbsp; can you =
tell me why=20
and help me get back?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D4>kate</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-glass Wed Jan 19 04:02:20 2000
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To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Re: Need help with first lamp
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 06:53:04 EST
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Tinning the vase cap is a tedious process.  You have to first lay the 
soldering iron on the cap and heat it, then take a small dab of solder and 
spread it as thinly as possible so there are no bumps.  When you think you 
have spread it far enough, go back and spread it some more.  1/4 inch of 
solder should be plenty for a 6 inch vase cap.    And then when you solder it 
to the lamp you will sometimes get bumps anyway.  I think it was Joe Porcelli 
at Glass Visions who said you don't need to tin the vase cap at all.  I 
haven't tried it yet, but it makes sense since brass takes patina better than 
solder.  There's also a product that is a mixture of solder and flux that you 
paint on and then run the soldering iron over it.  It works pretty well and 
is a lot faster.

Just received the signature line below in an ebay buyer's email.  Quite 
appropriate at this time.....

Brenda Marhon

"For those who do not think, it is best at least 
to rearrange their prejudices once in a while"
                      Luther Burbank (1849-1926)  
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 19 04:08:49 2000
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Hi Shirley,
We use number 10 wire around the bottom of our lamps.  Have you tried  =
to talke 0000 steel wool to clean your vase cap real good I mean real =
good & then patina it. Shake it good & heat your patina up to get it =
warm & put it on your vase cap with a clean sponge let it set for about =
10 minutes & rinse it  with cold water do not rub it & only pat it dry. =
(Novacan patina) See if this will work for you.  Hope this helps you =
out.
Mary & Arkie

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<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>Hi Shirley,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>We use number 10 wire around the bottom of =
our=20
lamps.&nbsp; Have you tried&nbsp; to talke 0000 steel wool to clean your =
vase=20
cap real good I mean real good &amp; then patina it. Shake it good &amp; =
heat=20
your patina up to get it warm &amp; put it on your vase cap with a clean =
sponge=20
let it set for about 10 minutes &amp; rinse it&nbsp; with cold water do =
not rub=20
it &amp; only pat it dry. (Novacan patina) See if this will work for =
you.&nbsp;=20
Hope this helps you out.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>Mary &amp; Arkie</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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hello,
could someone please tell me, what company sales this glass. 
                                     
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In a message dated 1/19/00 7:02:49 AM, BMarhon@aol.com writes:

>Tinning the vase cap is a tedious process.

Not if you have a propane torch - put the cap on a fireproof surface, heat it 
carefully, apply a little solder, and use the flame to spread the solder 
around. Not my idea - I first saw Christie do it. Works great!


Sparks 
    certified pyromaniac who always tries to play with fire safely
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 19 08:00:46 2000
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From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
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Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 10:49:54 -0500
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Message text written by Shirley
>The second question I have is about the wire reinforcement around the
bottom edge.  Exactly what purpose does this serve and how important is i=
t
that you put it on and what is the best gauge of wire to use?<

Wire reinforcement around the bottom edge helps keep the lampshade
from pulling itself apart (i.e. copper foil tape ripping in a vulnerable
point),
and it also gives the lampshade's bottom a very finished, nicely round
edge.  It covers any gaps and/or differences in glass levels between
pieces.

As to the gauge - I can only purchase one gauge here, 18.  It works well.=


Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
North Wales, PA USA
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 19 08:01:42 2000
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Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 10:49:41 -0500
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Message text written by "Shari"
>I have a sidelight by the front door that I'm dying to do something with=

From owner-glass Wed Jan 19 08:25:46 2000
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Message text written by Shirley
>The first question I have is on tinning the vase
caps.  This lamp called for a 6" one and I had a lot of trouble given the=

heat sink problem.  The books all tell me to use my soldering iron though=
 I
couldn't seem to generate enough heat to get a smooth finish.  I am using=
 a
Weller 100.<

Here's a trick I learned from bungi about tinning a cap - buy
yourself a little torch, place the cap on top of a non-flamible
surface, and torch it!  When it gets hot, the solder will flow very
freely over the cap and it's much quicker than the iron method.

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
North Wales, PA USA
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 19 08:30:26 2000
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Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 11:03:08 -0500
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Hi, 
I'm fairly new to stained glass, but I LOVE it.  My question is very basic.
Every time I solder the 2nd side of my glass, the 1st side seems to get
messed up, and I have to go back and fix a lot.  I read yesterday that
putting a wet towel underneath the glass when doing the backside works, but
I haven't tried it yet.  Are there any other methods that you all use that
work?

  Donna Becker
 df125031@ncr.com

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From owner-glass Wed Jan 19 10:00:40 2000
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Donna--

Taking pains to make sure your glass fits well (reducing gaps) 
helps.  And keep your iron moving (or turn down the heat) if you're 
getting melt-throughs....

Kaye
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 19 10:36:57 2000
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Howdy Folks!

I'm about to start work on a fan shaped transom for over my front door. The 
design  I've drawn out coordinates with 3 square windows that I've already 
done for my dining room area. 
In this design, I would have to use a 3x5" diamond shaped bevel that has been 
cut in 1/2, top to bottom. I've never cut a bevel before. Is this possible? 
What's the best way to do it?

Thanks!
Susan
Alabama
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 19 10:37:32 2000
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From: Dani Greer <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: "Becker, Donna" <DF125031@exchange.DAYTONOH.NCR.com>
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Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 13:22:27 -0500
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Message text written by "Becker, Donna"
>Are there any other methods that you all use that
work?<

Practice! ;-D

Best,

Dani Greer
Greer Gallery & Studios
www.igga.org/greer/  =

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Please remove me from the list, Glenna.
Thanks ~ Dani

Message text written by "Tom"
>I'll drink to that, Sharon!  (Can I say that at least without being
pelted by the bible thumpers?)

I've never read nor heard from most of the very few and far between that
got their undies in a wad over "in your face" posts.  Those few people
really need to get a life.  Perhaps they should hang their hats
elsewhere as most of them don't even contribute to any stained glass
discussions, or they are just nosey and are hoping that somehow their
lives will be enriched by 'watching' others communicate about the arts
and stained glass in particular.

For any true artist, the simple word "crap" should not even raise an
eyebrow.  Surely they've seen amateurish "crap" that was being sold as
"art" before.  Or, maybe they've done 'crappy' work themselves that they
considered "art" and someone once told them that their work was "crap".
I know "crap" when I see it and I'm sure there are plenty of others who
do, too.

The complainers of the my use of the word "crap" must lead pitiful
lives, never watch anything that might mentally engaging or God forbid
stimulating.  There's another word that should tick some more of the
self imposed upper echelon of the artist society, "stimulating".
hahahaha!

I do know that lots of the art I've seen and really admired, also
"stimulated" me in lots of ways! ;)

Tom - in NC who had only a few private nasty posts from those that must
live under the same rock, out of the mainstream of life.  What a
"crappy" existence and sheltered life they must lead if the simple word
"crap" offends them.  Maybe I should have used a stronger word they
wouldn't have any trouble understanding?  Next time.

<

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Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 13:59:49 EST
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Thanks very much for recounting your observations at the Morse Museum. It epitomized the purpose of this list. Your account stimulated ideas for materials and techniques in my future glass designs and projects. Thanks for letting me get a glimpse through your eyes. 
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 19 11:37:00 2000
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From: Elizabeth Arakelian <glshorse@ior.com>
To: Tom <thomm@vnet.net>
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Subject: Re: In your face *double standard*?  Really?
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 11:17:50 -0800
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Tom wrote:
> 
> Double standard?  From or by whom, pray tell?
> 
> Tom
> 
>
a double standard in that no one complains about all manner of quotes
that people have pasted after their names and like I said, someone had
not just a quote, but a link to her wiccan website (which did NOT offend
me...OK...I am just pointing this out by way of contrast of reactions)
and there was nary a comment. But someone puts a bible quote up...for no
doubt the same reasons that people put up quotes from their favorite
writers, philosophers and what have you and there is any outcry about
being "in your face"...why is not a link to a wiccan website considered 
"in your face" or a quote from Emerson or some zen master or whoever
else it is people care to quote considered "in your face"...but heaven
forbid...a bible quote...THAT is "in your face"...thats what I mean by
"double standard"


Liz
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From: "Mary" <embee@mediaone.net>
To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: NG
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 14:36:37 -0500
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This last brouhaha over a scripture being used in a signature was my swan
song, so to speak.
When I constantly face horrible  insults such as trash television, filthy
songs and books and the offering in Brooklyn Museum (to name a very few) all
in the name of "Freedom of Expression", it truly offends me to hear and read
someone's  indignation by the use of Scripture.
Please unsubscribe me.
Thank you,
Mary Barry



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From owner-glass Wed Jan 19 13:12:26 2000
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X-Path: compuserve.com!GreerStudios
From: Dani Greer <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: Everyone <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Off the list
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 16:02:02 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hi all,

I have been inundated with mail
about unsubscribing!  Just to let you
know, I'm not upset, but after all these
years on bungi there just isn't much new
for me anymore... and, frankly, it was one
silly flamefest too many.  And, when I see
names popping up that never contribute
much to a glass discussion... ack... So if
you have a glass question, come visit me
when I'm doing Martha Stewart Living Online
Blue Ribbon expert duty!  Go to Martha's
website and into the Crafts section.... I'm on
duty Tuesdays and Wednesdays.  See you
there!!  P.S. I could use some REAL S.G.
questions! =


Best to all! ;-))

Dani Greer
Greer Gallery & Studios
www.igga.org/greer/
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 19 14:30:59 2000
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X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Offinger Mgmt Co. Trade Shows press release
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 17:16:22 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

The following trade shows managed by Offinger
Management Co. are coming up.  For more information,
contact them at:
        1100-H Brandywine Blvd
        P.O. Box 3388
        Zanesville, OH USA 43702-3388
        phone 740-452-4541  fax 740-452-2552
        email: omc.info@offinger.com
        web: www.offinger.com

IGGA does not endorse OMC or any of their trade shows.
This is simply passing along a press release.

Central Environmental Nursery Trad Show "CENTS" & Short Course
  24-26 Jan 2000
  Columbus Convention Center, Columbus, OH
  Trade only; exhibits & classes
  1,073 exhibits, 11,901 total registered attendance

144th Ohio State Gift Show
  Offinger's handcrafted Marketplace
  19-20 March 2000
  Veterans Memorial Building, Columbus, OH
  Trade only; 200 exhibits, 2,500 buyers, 2,900 total attendance

Bead & Button Show
  (Bead & Button magazine)
  1-4 June 2000
  Portland Convention Center, Portland, OR
  Public show; exhibits & classes
  175 exhibits, 3,500 total attendance

Offinger's Handcrafted Marketplace
  3-4 June 2000
  Kansas City Market Center, Kansas City, MO
  Trade only
  100 exhibits, 2,000 buyers, 2,200 total attendance

Association of Crafts & Creative Industries (ACCI) Show
  The Craft and Creative Marketplace
  28-30 July 2000
  Rosemont Convention Center, Rosemont (Chicago), IL
  Trade only.  Exhibits & classes
  1,600 exhibits, 5,000 buyers, 9.000 total attendance

Int'l Art Glass Suppliers Trade Show (AGSA)
  28-30 July 2000
  Rosemont Convention Center, Rosemont (Chicago), IL
  Trade only.  Exhibits & classes
  200 exhibits, 1,500 buyers, 1,600 total attendance

145th Ohio State Gift Show
  19-20 August 2000
  Veterans Memorial Building, Columbus, OH
  Trade only
  250 exhibits, 2,700 buyers, 3,200 total attendance

Society of Craft Designers Educational Seminar
  4-7 October 2000
  Hyatt Regency Minneapolis on Nicollet Mall, Minneapolis, MN
  Mfg/Designer showcases & education
  150 tabletop exhibits, 250 total attendance

Glass Show 2000 (Connecticut, Massachusetts & Rhode Island Glass Dealers
Associations)
  3-4 November 2000
  Atlantic City Convention Center, Atlantic City, NJ
  Trade only.  exhibits & classes
  120 exhibits, 1,200 buyers, 1,400 total attendance

Christie A. Wood-IGGA Exec.Director
Art Glass Ensembles
North Wales, PA USA
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X-Path: aol.com!Witchdoc3
From: Witchdoc3@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Soldering the backside
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 18:28:48 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk


In a message dated 1/19/00 11:31:24 AM, DF125031@exchange.DAYTONOH.NCR.com 
writes:

>Every time I solder the 2nd side of my glass, the 1st side seems to get
>messed up, and I have to go back and fix a lot.

Sounds like one of 2 things. Either you're running your iron *way* too hot 
(bet nobody thought they'd ever hear "that li'l ol' solder-boiler, me" say a 
thing like that, huh?) or you're touching up the same spots repeatedly 
without giving them time to cool in between passes.


Sparks
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 19 15:58:36 2000
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X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Need design help on sidelight
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 18:38:40 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Message text written by "Shari"
>I rec'd this post today on Bungi, but it seems to be lacking the "meat" =
of
what you were going to say... Dare I ask what else the post said, besides=

this little that I rec'd?!<

Man, I saw that too.  Bummer.  I had a nice, long reply to you about the
sidelight, which seems to have gone into the computer la la land somewher=
e.

Anyway...7 1/2" wide is plenty of good space for nice verticle design wor=
k.
I do sidelights all the time and it's amazing what you can get into that
space
with some imagination.  Since you mentioned you liked tropical scenes,
may I suggest some tropical tree branches running at angles up through
the sidelight.  Leaves and flowers gracefully dropping down.  And maybe
a small parrot or macaw perched on one of the tree branches, with its
lovely tail feathers draping down.  Since you're looking for privacy too,=

use opaque glass.  But you can build in a clear peephole into the design.=

If you make it no more than 1" square, it will be near invisible to those=

folk
who don't know where to look.

Best luck with the design.  Have fun with it.

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
North Wales, PA USA
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 19 16:00:29 2000
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From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: bevel cutting
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 18:38:38 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Message text written by INTERNET:CWWSLW@aol.com
>In this design, I would have to use a 3x5" diamond shaped bevel that has=

been =

cut in 1/2, top to bottom. I've never cut a bevel before. Is this possibl=
e?

What's the best way to do it?<

Not only possible, but very easy.  Just score it and break it like any
other glass.

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
North Wales, PA USA
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 19 16:19:33 2000
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X-Path: ix.netcom.com!gunnx4
From: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@ix.netcom.com>
To: "Becker, Donna" <DF125031@exchange.DAYTONOH.NCR.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Soldering the backside
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 17:48:02 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Donna...

While you practice and get really good at it...here is a tip.

Tin both sides with 50/50 then get yourself a gorgeous bead with 60/40. 
50/50 melts at a higher temp than 60/40...so your 
60/40 wont melt the 50/50 you tinned and filled any gaps with.

Also, you can keep soldering until you get a bead you are happy with,
just let your glass cool off, wipe off flux, reflux, and go again.  You
dont have to stop until you are ready.  You will get good at it in no
time.  Just keep trying.

I prefer canfield myself, but am having to use the cheap stuff at work,
it is almost like learning all over again.  It's so nice to come home to
my own little studio and use the good stuff! :o)

Tulsa Suzanne



"Becker, Donna" wrote:
> 
> Hi,
> I'm fairly new to stained glass, but I LOVE it.  My question is very basic.
> Every time I solder the 2nd side of my glass, the 1st side seems to get
> messed up, and I have to go back and fix a lot.  I read yesterday that
> putting a wet towel underneath the glass when doing the backside works, but
> I haven't tried it yet.  Are there any other methods that you all use that
> work?
> 
>   Donna Becker
>  df125031@ncr.com
> 
> ----
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 19 16:31:37 2000
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From: Bitsofglass@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: marys response
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 18:56:03 EST
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Great going Mary Think Ill go with you.I m sure most of the people in this 
forum are great> Tom I really feel sorry for you
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 19 16:32:24 2000
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X-Path: mtcon.net!shigbee
From: "Shari" <shigbee@mtcon.net>
To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: Soldering the backside
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 17:10:21 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

another thing you can try is to run a first "coat" of 50/50 solder over the
seams, then build the bead with 60/40. You'll have less chance of
melt-throughs with the 50/50 on the bottom.

Shari



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From owner-glass Wed Jan 19 16:53:22 2000
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X-Path: gjr
From: gjr@bungi.com (Glenna Rand)
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Reminder - Flames
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 16:07:36 PST
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Hi everyone,

Just a reminder to all - please take any flames off line.
This is not a list to encourage this kind of behaviour.

-- 
Glenna Rand
gjr@bungi.com
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 19 16:55:48 2000
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From: Witchdoc3@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: bevel cutting
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 19:09:41 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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In a message dated 1/19/00 7:01:31 PM, Ensembles@compuserve.com writes:

>Not only possible, but very easy.  Just score it and break it like any
>other glass.

On the "back" (flat) side, that is. Indeed they are easy to cut - you may 
just need to use a bit more pressure to break them depending on how thick 
they are. I had to cut a couple of 1/4" thick antique clear glue-chip bevels 
yesterday for a panel we're working on. They cut beautifully.


Sparks
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 19 17:01:43 2000
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From: MATRONA@aol.com
To: Witchdoc3@aol.com, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Soldering the backside
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 19:09:23 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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In a message dated 1/19/00 6:32:07 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
Witchdoc3@aol.com writes:

> Subj:  Re: Soldering the backside
>  Date:    1/19/00 6:32:07 PM Eastern Standard Time
>  From:    Witchdoc3@aol.com
>  To:  glass@bungi.com
>  
>  
>  In a message dated 1/19/00 11:31:24 AM, DF125031@exchange.DAYTONOH.NCR.com 
>  writes:
>  
>  >Every time I solder the 2nd side of my glass, the 1st side seems to get
>  >messed up, and I have to go back and fix a lot.
>  
>  Sounds like one of 2 things. Either you're running your iron *way* too hot 
>  (bet nobody thought they'd ever hear "that li'l ol' solder-boiler, me" say 
a 
> 
>  thing like that, huh?) or you're touching up the same spots repeatedly 
>  without giving them time to cool in between passes.
>  
>  
>  Sparks
And -----that advice you heard aboput putting a damp cloth or paper towel 
under your work has much merit.  Keep it from getting so hot,--cut better, so 
there aren't wide gaps in your work, ==and solder cooler.  A good iron,  or 
the use of a heat regulator  will assist you in getting the results you need;
Anne
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 19 17:09:31 2000
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X-Path: springnet1.com!jazz-sni
From: Don Udey <jazz-sni@springnet1.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: metal faerie bodies
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 18:07:46 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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I need your help "Bungi" fans...I'm trying to find a source that I can
purchase faerie metal bodies that I can attach glass wings.  Saw some
beautiful standing faeries in a novelty store today.  Would love to
learn how to make them. The ones I saw were going for $75.00 each,
approximately 6 to 8 inches tall.  Also, any input on making them would
be greatly appreciated!

Thanks     Linda U

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From owner-glass Wed Jan 19 17:15:38 2000
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Dani Greer <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
Subject: Unacceptable behaviour leading to : Unsubscribe
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 00:07:15 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Now see what you have done Tom?

You have driven off one of the most respected members of the list who
has given a great deal of advice to all members of the list.

Shame on you for your bad behaviour!

Don't bother to send me another of your bad tempered messages. I won't
be reading it.

I would much prefer it if you left the list, and took your aggressive
behaviour elsewhere.  Artist - Pah!!!

Steve

In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, Dani Greer <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
writes
>Please remove me from the list, Glenna.
>Thanks ~ Dani
>
>Message text written by "Tom"
>>I'll drink to that, Sharon!  (Can I say that at least without being
>pelted by the bible thumpers?)

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 19 17:28:03 2000
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From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Kaye Sodt <kaye@GSA-ORSP.CROWN.NWU.EDU>
Subject: Re: Soldering the backside
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 00:22:15 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<200001191740.LAA29921@pineyard.acns.nwu.edu>>
Precedence: bulk

I always seem to have a few places where the gap between pieces is too
wide.  For these, I place a strip of masking tape on the inside of a 3-D
piece.  Works well and is easy to remove.  For 2-D pieces, the fit just
has to be better.

Steve


In message <200001191740.LAA29921@pineyard.acns.nwu.edu>, Kaye Sodt
<kaye@GSA-ORSP.CROWN.NWU.EDU> writes
>Donna--
>
>Taking pains to make sure your glass fits well (reducing gaps) 
>helps.  And keep your iron moving (or turn down the heat) if you're 
>getting melt-throughs....
>
>Kaye
>----
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-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 19 17:39:29 2000
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From: Dani Greer <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: Everyone <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Martha Stewart bulletin board
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 20:16:40 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hi all,

I have had lots of questions about my
participation on the Martha Stewart Living
bulletin boards.  First of all, the url is:

www.marthastewart.com

=46rom there, things are pretty straightforward.  =

I usually answer questions on Tuesday and
Wednesday (pj Friend and John Emery work
on other days).  When you get to the homepage,
click on "Home" or "Crafts".  Then click on "bulletin
boards".  That gets you into more categories again,
including "home" and "crafts" again.  Pick one.
Then to the left, you'll notice a category called
"discussions".  You may either click "post new"
to ask a question or "find".  In "find", I suggest folks
type in "stained glass" for a listing of all the stained
glass related conversations.  That's the easiest way
to pass up all the non-glass conversations.  Don't =

be afraid to answer some of the questions either...
believe me, after being on bungi a while, most of
you can be considered experts on stained glass!

Stop by and say "hi" sometime!

Best regards,

Dani Greer
Greer Gallery & Studios
www.igga.org/greer/
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 19 17:40:22 2000
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From: "Valued Compaq Customer" <ruf-caimi@erols.com>
To: <Glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: Stained Glass Windows
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 20:26:47 -0500
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Precedence: bulk

History of Church Stained Glass Windows" on Jan 18,  8:46, "Valued Compaq
Customer" writes:]
> To Whom It May Concern:
> 	I am a student of Historic Preservation and currently researching a
church
> for  my final project.  The church was built in 1876 and has stained
glass
> windows in it.  This is a mission church so the windows are very unusal
for
> it to have.  
> 	In my report I would like to included what I can about the History of
> Church Stained Glass Windows.  Could you recommend a book or article that
> would be helpful?  Any information would be appreciated.
> 
If you post this to the group I'm sure someone can give you some ideas.
(Glass@bungi.com)  Ask them to respond to you direcctly since your
not a member and wouldn't see this posting if it was sent to the list.

Please send any information directly to me, at my e-mail.
Thank You for any help
Linda
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 19 18:01:56 2000
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From: MATRONA@aol.com
To: Bitsofglass@aol.com, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: marys response
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 20:41:51 EST
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In a message dated 1/19/00 7:32:26 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
Bitsofglass@aol.com writes:

> Great going Mary Think Ill go with you.I m sure most of the people in this 
>  forum are great> Tom I really feel sorry for you
>  ----
I'd really hate it, if you guys all left.  I hope you all will reconsider.
I haven't been on here all that long, and i'd hate to see this whole thing 
fall apart, just for this.
Anne
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 19 18:35:53 2000
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X-Path: home.com!cecnralph
From: Cecily and Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Subject: Re: Signatures [ng]
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 21:10:05 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<200001191429.JAA26110@smu0102.ComCAT.COM>>
Organization: Grendel Studios
Precedence: bulk

In the bad old days before there were html capable editors, you encoded
simple style changes by putting a special character in front and behind a
word.  So if you wanted to underline a word you did _this_.  Have no idea
what the * was for - maybe bold?  And the newer fancier html extension is,
I think, called xtml?  or xml?

suzy wrote:

> Cec, I enjoyed this e-mail. Thanks for explaining some things about
> computer "netiquette" in a sane, non-emotional way.
>
> What does putting a word in asterisks do? Make the computer not see it,
> thus not filter it out?
>
> Thanks for giving me the opportunity to look up the meaning of aphorism
> too!
> Love to learn new words.
>
> Suzanne

--
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************


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From owner-glass Wed Jan 19 19:41:13 2000
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From: Elizabeth Arakelian <glshorse@ior.com>
To: Bitsofglass@aol.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Unsubscribe me too
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 19:14:11 -0800
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Bitsofglass@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Great going Mary Think Ill go with you.I m sure most of the people in this
> forum are great> Tom I really feel sorry for you
> ----
>

yes, me too...I am tired of garbage touted in the name of "free
speech"....Mapplethorpe and other such garbage...yet heaven forbid
someone quotes the bible.  Sorry if I didnt contribute "enough" stained
glass commentary to "earn" the right to comment on something NG...oh
well...

Liz
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 19 19:45:58 2000
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X-Path: fastlane.net!byronw
From: "Byron Wells" <byronw@fastlane.net>
To: <THOR7127@aol.com>, <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: flemish?
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 21:34:41 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Most any retailer should have ar be able to get Flemish for you... Wissmach
and Pilkington are 2 makers of this glass...

Byron...
Wells Glassworks

-----Original Message-----
From: THOR7127@aol.com <THOR7127@aol.com>
To: glass@bungi.com <glass@bungi.com>
Date: Wednesday, January 19, 2000 6:59 AM
Subject: flemish?


>hello,
>could someone please tell me, what company sales this glass.
>
>----
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>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>

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From owner-glass Wed Jan 19 20:08:29 2000
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X-Path: ghostman.com!candy
From: "Candy" <candy@ghostman.com>
To: "Bitsofglass@aol.com" <Bitsofglass@aol.com>,
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: marys response
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 00 20:46:44 
Message-ID: <200001200346.UAA23728@mantis.privatei.com>
Precedence: bulk

We won't all go Mary.. some things are just worth ignoring, you know?

This last little flame war was just that 'little'.. I've seen lots worse, and they are better 
treated with silence.. Just ignore that stuff and keep on asking questions!

I'll have stopped learning things when I'm passing onto the next life!

Candy

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From owner-glass Wed Jan 19 20:16:02 2000
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From: "Byron Wells" <byronw@fastlane.net>
To: "Dani Greer" <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>, <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Off the list
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 22:00:29 -0600
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I for one will miss reading your comments and tips Dani... I dont blame you
tho.. I myself dont participate much anymore because of the bickering and
massive amounts of non-glass posts... I work between 80-90 hours a week and
my free time is valuable to me... When I 1st got on the list a few years
back I really enjoyed it... I skip 90% of the 'noise' on here now..

Byron...
Wells Glassworks

-----Original Message-----
From: Dani Greer <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: Everyone <glass@bungi.com>
Date: Wednesday, January 19, 2000 3:27 PM
Subject: Off the list


>Hi all,
>
>I have been inundated with mail
>about unsubscribing!  Just to let you
>know, I'm not upset, but after all these
>years on bungi there just isn't much new
>for me anymore... and, frankly, it was one
>silly flamefest too many.  And, when I see
>names popping up that never contribute
>much to a glass discussion... ack... So if
>you have a glass question, come visit me
>when I'm doing Martha Stewart Living Online
>Blue Ribbon expert duty!  Go to Martha's
>website and into the Crafts section.... I'm on
>duty Tuesdays and Wednesdays.  See you
>there!!  P.S. I could use some REAL S.G.
>questions! =
>
>
>Best to all! ;-))
>
>Dani Greer
>Greer Gallery & Studios
>www.igga.org/greer/
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>

----
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 19 20:31:19 2000
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X-Path: home.com!cecnralph
From: Cecily and Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Subject: Re: Signatures [ng]
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 22:43:41 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<388683D5.5C2A171F@home.com>>
Organization: Grendel Studios
Precedence: bulk

Sent this just to Suzy but then thought someone else might like to know  why.

Cecily and Ralph Wood wrote:

> oh oh I see what you mean -  why *virus*?  Because it literally thinks that is
> a 6 letter word - it hasn't been told to do a sub-string search.  That takes a
> lot more programming.  When you have a search or find function where you give
> it something to look for and it hunts to see if that is CONTAINED in the
> title, or text, then you'd pick up that the word virus is contained in
> *virus*.  However this is looking for something that EQUALS virus - so it has
> to have an exact match.
>
> suzy wrote:
>
> > on this day you wrote:
> >
> > >In the bad old days before there were html capable editors, you encoded
> > >simple style changes by putting a special character in front and behind a
> > >word.  So if you wanted to underline a word you did _this_.  Have no idea
> > >what the * was for - maybe bold?  And the newer fancier html extension is,
> > >I think, called xtml?  or xml?
> >
> > Yes, I was a typesetter for 30 years. When we wanted italic or bold it
> > was a style change both before and after the word or words. Probably a
> > carryover from that. I still don't understand why putting the word
> > between symbols would make the computer ignore it. Just curious :)

--
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************


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From owner-glass Wed Jan 19 20:43:04 2000
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From: Tracy Reitmann <Northernlights@pobox.com>
To: MATRONA@aol.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: marys response
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 22:02:27 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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I agree with you Anne....it'd be a shame to waste wonderful
people just because of this horrible incident from one
person's unwanted and unwelcomed criticism of another.  It'd
be a real shame.  I hope the people talking about leaving
will reconsider and stay with us in Bungi-land!

MATRONA@aol.com wrote:
> 
> In a message dated 1/19/00 7:32:26 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> Bitsofglass@aol.com writes:
> 
> > Great going Mary Think Ill go with you.I m sure most of the people in this
> >  forum are great> Tom I really feel sorry for you
> >  ----
> I'd really hate it, if you guys all left.  I hope you all will reconsider.
> I haven't been on here all that long, and i'd hate to see this whole thing
> fall apart, just for this.
> Anne
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
----
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 19 20:51:09 2000
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X-Path: home.com!cecnralph
From: Cecily and Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Subject: Re: Soldering the backside
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 23:02:17 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Organization: Grendel Studios
Precedence: bulk

I've been told by a very good professional that if you have a gap that is just
too large, whether doing foiled pieces or came, take a chunk of came and wedge
it in the gap and cover it with solder.  Of course, maybe you need to recut a
piece. - Cec

Witchdoc3@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 1/19/00 11:31:24 AM, DF125031@exchange.DAYTONOH.NCR.com
> writes:
>
> >Every time I solder the 2nd side of my glass, the 1st side seems to get
> >messed up, and I have to go back and fix a lot.
>
> Sounds like one of 2 things. Either you're running your iron *way* too hot
> (bet nobody thought they'd ever hear "that li'l ol' solder-boiler, me" say a
> thing like that, huh?) or you're touching up the same spots repeatedly
> without giving them time to cool in between passes.
>
> Sparks
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

--
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************


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From owner-glass Wed Jan 19 20:58:51 2000
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From: Cecily and Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
To: Dani Greer <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>,
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Subject: Re: Off the list
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 22:58:19 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Organization: Grendel Studios
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Oh dear - PLEASE don't quit.  I don't know what set that idiot off, and
I tried to pour some oil on troubled waters, but it WILL die down, and
we need you.  I'm learning all the time from your participation.

I've been on since August or September and that's the first time I've
ever seen a true flame, and most of it is one-sided.  Just picture the
culprit(s) as frothing at the mouth - with an enormous mouth and shark
teeth - sort of Heronymous Bosch-ish and ignore.

Maybe we need some kind of Bungi Behaviour code?  I'd be glad to pull
something together, using some of the lists I belong to as examples.  As
a priviledge of membership we should have to abide by such?

Dani Greer wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> I have been inundated with mail
> about unsubscribing!  Just to let you
> know, I'm not upset, but after all these
> years on bungi there just isn't much new
> for me anymore... and, frankly, it was one
> silly flamefest too many.  And, when I see
> names popping up that never contribute
> much to a glass discussion... ack... So if
> you have a glass question, come visit me
> when I'm doing Martha Stewart Living Online
> Blue Ribbon expert duty!  Go to Martha's
> website and into the Crafts section.... I'm on
> duty Tuesdays and Wednesdays.  See you
> there!!  P.S. I could use some REAL S.G.
> questions! =
>
> Best to all! ;-))
>
> Dani Greer
> Greer Gallery & Studios
> www.igga.org/greer/
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

--
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************


----
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From owner-glass Thu Jan 20 00:15:57 2000
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X-Path: stainedglass.co.uk!studio
From: "studio@stainedglass.co.uk" <studio@stainedglass.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: flemish?
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 08:03:24 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

At 07:33 19/01/00 EST, THOR wrote:
>hello,
>could someone please tell me, what company sales this glass. 
>                                     
>-
In the UK (where Flemish is made by Pilkingtons Glass) it is sold by all
glass suppliers - not specialist stained glass suppliers on the whole as it
is considered an ordinary domestic-type glass for windows, thermal units
etc.  It comes in either 4mm or 6mm thickness but no longer in any colours -
only clear.  
It can be easily recognised by the "tulip" shape that appears at regular
intervals in the pattern. By the way we often see it installed in windows by
people who have not noticed this part of the pattern and the tulip shape is
sometimes on its head, sometimes sideways but traditionally should be used
with this flower shape upright!  
Regards
EliZabeth in Bournemouth
http://www.stainedglass.co.uk


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From owner-glass Thu Jan 20 00:30:25 2000
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X-Path: ukonline.co.uk!brian.shepherd
From: "Brian Shepherd" <brian.shepherd@ukonline.co.uk>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: marys response
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 08:01:41 -0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<200001200346.UAA23728@mantis.privatei.com>>
Precedence: bulk


I agree one hundred percent.

Don't take offence at the ill considered, rude remarks and
bad temper that sometimes appear. It simply doesn't pay to
respond. If somebody is crass enough to utter it to start
with you probably will not be able to make one jot of
difference to their attitudes.

Much more importantly you might goad the beast and extend
the nonsense!

Sadly there are people on Bungi who are well worth ignoring
and if we don't speak to them they will certainly wonder
off.

BtB


> We won't all go Mary.. some things are just worth
ignoring, you know?
>
> This last little flame war was just that 'little'.. I've
seen lots worse, and they are better
> treated with silence.. Just ignore that stuff and keep on
asking questions!
>
> I'll have stopped learning things when I'm passing onto
the next life!
>
> Candy



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From owner-glass Thu Jan 20 02:30:39 2000
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From: Hilary <hilary@voicenet.com>
To: Don Udey <jazz-sni@springnet1.com>, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: metal faerie bodies
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 05:25:37 -0400
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Linda,

Go here:

http://www.warner-criv.com/search/dept_search.asp?mscssid=&qu=3001&ct=wc_dept&row_count=2&img=on&x=16&y=15

Or just got to:

http://www.warner-criv.com/

and shop to your hearts content!

Hilary


> I need your help "Bungi" fans...I'm trying to find a source that I can
> purchase faerie metal bodies that I can attach glass wings.
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From owner-glass Thu Jan 20 04:23:50 2000
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From: SGriffiSBG@aol.com
To: brian.shepherd@ukonline.co.uk, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: marys response
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 07:01:29 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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I agree, ignoring the ignorant!  Responding in anger only causes the 
individual who responds emotional and physical problems.  The giver of the 
offense couldn't care less as he relishes in the controversy which ensues 
getting his 'kick' for the day.  Which by the way only shows how immature he 
really is.  Emotional maturity enables another to tolerate another's 
immaturity.
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From owner-glass Thu Jan 20 05:02:13 2000
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From: "Shakeel Abedi" <shakabe@pd.jaring.my>
To: "bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: What a pity. Such a shame.
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 15:45:44 +0800
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It is always loose nut that brings down a prefectly running machinery, isn't
it?

Shakeel


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X-Path: aol.com!NEICYDENN
From: NEICYDENN@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: soldering iron & temp control
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 10:25:25 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

I just bought a new Weller 100 soldering iron and am wondering if I should be 
using my rheostat temp control with it.  I understand that the tips are to be 
changed when you want to change temperatures. Will it hurt the iron if I just 
use the rheostat? (I only have 2 tips). I have always used it with my old 
iron with great results.

Thanks in advance for you advice!
Denise
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From owner-glass Thu Jan 20 08:22:28 2000
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X-Path: one.net!gwood
From: "Gregg Wood" <gwood@one.net>
To: "Glass @ Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: soldering iron & temp control
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 11:11:43 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

I also have a great interest in this.

I have _heard_ that using a rheostat on a tip controlled iron will
"cause it to burn up".  I can see where this might be fact as using
rheostat could cause the maximum temperature of the iron to drop
below the 'tip controlled' temperature thus causing the heating
element in the iron to run @ 100% duty cycle and I don't think the
iron was designed with that in mind.  That might lead to premature
value of the heater.

At one point I was going to call Cooper Tools but have never gotten
around to it.  Someone on Bungi has contacted them, but not about this.

That's my spin on this but, seeing as how I own one of these bad-boys,
I'm also interested in using a rheostat and don't 'really' want to buy a
second
iron yet...

-G

[snip]
From: <NEICYDENN@aol.com>
> I just bought a new Weller 100 soldering iron and am wondering if I should
be
> using my rheostat temp control with it.  I understand that the tips are to
be
> changed when you want to change temperatures. Will it hurt the iron if I
just
> use the rheostat? (I only have 2 tips). I have always used it with my old
> iron with great results.
> Denise
[snip]

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X-Path: exchange.DAYTONOH.NCR.com!DF125031
From: "Becker, Donna" <DF125031@exchange.DAYTONOH.NCR.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: Re: Soldering the Backside
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 11:53:16 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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I just wanted to thank EVERYONE for their responses to my question.  I
really appreciate the help and all those votes of confidence.  I'm new to
this email list, but getting the GLASS emails in-between all my "work"
emails gives me a welcome break.  I am looking forward to more.

Thank You all again! 

  Donna Becker
 df125031@ncr.com


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X-Path: OREGON.UOREGON.EDU!soleim
From: Sherrie Soleim <soleim@OREGON.UOREGON.EDU>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: Re: soldering iron & temp control
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 08:54:24 -0800
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--------------4A1CF47E1D585DA1C5CFCA4A
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

When I bought my Weller 100 about a year ago, I was told specifically by the
sales woman at the store to NOT use a rheostat because it would definitely burn
up the heating element, and she knew this from her own mistake.  :-)

Sherrie

NEICYDENN@aol.com wrote:

> I just bought a new Weller 100 soldering iron and am wondering if I should be
> using my rheostat temp control with it.  I understand that the tips are to be
> changed when you want to change temperatures. Will it hurt the iron if I just
> use the rheostat? (I only have 2 tips). I have always used it with my old
> iron with great results.
>
> Thanks in advance for you advice!
> Denise
>

--
<><><><><><><><><><><><><>
Sherrie L. Soleim
University of Oregon
Library Personnel Services
soleim@oregon.uoregon.edu
<><><><><><><><><><><><><>


--------------4A1CF47E1D585DA1C5CFCA4A
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
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<!doctype html public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en">
<html>
When I bought my Weller 100 about a year ago, I was told specifically by
the sales woman at the store to NOT use a rheostat because it would definitely
burn up the heating element, and she knew this from her own mistake.&nbsp;
:-)
<p>Sherrie
<p>NEICYDENN@aol.com wrote:
<blockquote TYPE=CITE>I just bought a new Weller 100 soldering iron and
am wondering if I should be
<br>using my rheostat temp control with it.&nbsp; I understand that the
tips are to be
<br>changed when you want to change temperatures. Will it hurt the iron
if I just
<br>use the rheostat? (I only have 2 tips). I have always used it with
my old
<br>iron with great results.
<p>Thanks in advance for you advice!
<br>Denise
<br><a href="http://www.bungi.com/glass"></a>&nbsp;</blockquote>

<p>--
<br>&lt;>&lt;>&lt;>&lt;>&lt;>&lt;>&lt;>&lt;>&lt;>&lt;>&lt;>&lt;>&lt;>
<br>Sherrie L. Soleim
<br>University of Oregon
<br>Library Personnel Services
<br>soleim@oregon.uoregon.edu
<br>&lt;>&lt;>&lt;>&lt;>&lt;>&lt;>&lt;>&lt;>&lt;>&lt;>&lt;>&lt;>&lt;>
<br>&nbsp;</html>

--------------4A1CF47E1D585DA1C5CFCA4A--

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From owner-glass Thu Jan 20 09:23:17 2000
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X-Path: mars.ark.com!wmunro
From: wmunro@mars.ark.com (Wayne Munro)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: glass at a younger age..
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 09:19:13 -0800
Message-ID: <200001201719.JAA23968@ark.com>
Precedence: bulk

Isn't it great!! I was 45 before I started to work in stained glass and
glass related hobbies. Now people are getting into glass at the tender age
of 3 or 4!!! (At least mentally---Mind you, there are some countries that
have prefered to bomb other countries for less!) 
WOW!! Ain't this a great Y2K?


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From owner-glass Thu Jan 20 10:22:28 2000
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X-Path: mail2.nai.net!shad
From: "Family Account" <shad@mail2.nai.net>
To: "glass bungi line" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: metal faerie bodies
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 13:14:26 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

When you do attach the wings, TURN DOWN the heat on your soldering iron...I
have to, at least.  I tend to solder hot, and if I don't turn down the heat,
I just melt a hole in the bodies.  Also be careful with the fairies when you
attach the wings if you want the piece to be symmetrical.  You'll want the
wings to stand out from the body at the same angle.  You will be wishing you
have four hands, so think it out ahead of time, else you'll do what my dear
John did a couple of years ago while making one of those things....he
started to pick up the soldering iron by the wrong end!

A nice look for the metal bodies is to smear on some gold Rub 'n Buff, then
rub and buff it.

Dorothy
----- Original Message -----
From: Don Udey <jazz-sni@springnet1.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 19, 2000 7:07 PM
Subject: metal faerie bodies


> I need your help "Bungi" fans...I'm trying to find a source that I can
> purchase faerie metal bodies that I can attach glass wings.  Saw some
> beautiful standing faeries in a novelty store today.  Would love to
> learn how to make them. ...>
>

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From owner-glass Thu Jan 20 10:31:53 2000
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X-Path: OREGON.UOREGON.EDU!soleim
From: Sherrie Soleim <soleim@OREGON.UOREGON.EDU>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: soldering iron & temp control
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 09:51:10 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@daver.bungi.com>>
Organization: oregon.uoregon.edu
Precedence: bulk

hmmm... where did my message go?  I'll try again.

~~

When I bought my Weller 100 about a year ago, I
was told specifically by the sales woman at the
store to NOT use a rheostat because it would
definitely burn up the heating element, and she
knew this from her own mistake.  :-)

Sherrie

NEICYDENN@aol.com wrote:

  I just bought a new Weller 100 soldering iron
and am wondering if I should be
  using my rheostat temp control with it.  I
understand that the tips are to be
  changed when you want to change temperatures.
Will it hurt the iron if I just
  use the rheostat? (I only have 2 tips). I have
always used it with my old
  iron with great results.

  Thanks in advance for you advice!
  Denise


--
<><><><><><><><><><><><><>
Sherrie L. Soleim
University of Oregon
Library Personnel Services
soleim@oregon.uoregon.edu
<><><><><><><><><><><><><>


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From owner-glass Thu Jan 20 10:52:37 2000
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X-Path: ukonline.co.uk!brian.shepherd
From: "Brian Shepherd" <brian.shepherd@ukonline.co.uk>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: soldering iron & temp control
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 18:11:05 -0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

It was always my feeling that it was an improper use of a
Weller 100. It simply wasn't designed to be used in this
way.

I will look forward to a definitive answer!

BtB


----- Original Message -----
From: Gregg Wood <gwood@one.net>
To: Glass @ Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 20, 2000 4:11 PM
Subject: Re: soldering iron & temp control


> I also have a great interest in this.
>
> I have _heard_ that using a rheostat on a tip controlled
iron will
> "cause it to burn up".  I can see where this might be fact
as using
> rheostat could cause the maximum temperature of the iron
to drop
> below the 'tip controlled' temperature thus causing the
heating
> element in the iron to run @ 100% duty cycle and I don't
think the
> iron was designed with that in mind.  That might lead to
premature
> value of the heater.
>
> At one point I was going to call Cooper Tools but have
never gotten
> around to it.  Someone on Bungi has contacted them, but
not about this.
>
> That's my spin on this but, seeing as how I own one of
these bad-boys,
> I'm also interested in using a rheostat and don't 'really'
want to buy a
> second
> iron yet...
>
> -G
>
> [snip]
> From: <NEICYDENN@aol.com>
> > I just bought a new Weller 100 soldering iron and am
wondering if I should
> be
> > using my rheostat temp control with it.  I understand
that the tips are to
> be
> > changed when you want to change temperatures. Will it
hurt the iron if I
> just
> > use the rheostat? (I only have 2 tips). I have always
used it with my old
> > iron with great results.
> > Denise
> [snip]
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to:
glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>


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From owner-glass Thu Jan 20 11:01:50 2000
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X-Path: kootenay.com!sparent
From: Shirley <sparent@kootenay.com>
To: Glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Need help with first lamp
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 11:59:56 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Thank you to all for the responses to my cry for help.  It is alway so
difficult when you encounter a problem and just don't have the expertise to
conquer it and so wonderful to have a group like you to help out with them.
 I am sure I will have many more questions in the future and will not
hesitate to ask for assistance.  

Shirley Parent

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From owner-glass Thu Jan 20 11:52:27 2000
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X-Path: OREGON.UOREGON.EDU!soleim
From: Sherrie Soleim <soleim@OREGON.UOREGON.EDU>
To: "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: soldering iron & temp control
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 11:13:27 -0800
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References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@mail.one.net>>
Organization: oregon.uoregon.edu
Precedence: bulk

I thought that is what the different tips were for.  If you iron is too hot
you switch to a cooler tip.  I know I wouldn't take a chance of burning up the
iron.

Just my opinion.

Sherrie.


Debbie Taylor wrote:

> i have been doing glass for 13 years .. as a profession for 7, and use a
> reostat on mine every day of the week!
> i recommend to all my students because i feel that just starting out, the
> iron is too hot for a beginner .. they get too many mushrooms and burn the
> glue out of the foil too easy..
> again, this is just my opinion ..
>
> debbie taylor - cincinnati, ohio
> * * * * * * * *
> kleeman@one.net
> (513) 231-0082
> (513)860-4762
> 1-888-488-9616
> fax: (413) 832-3470
> voice mail: (513) 766-2000 ext 3073
> Stained Glass Supplies - http://www.taylordexpressions.com
> WATKINS Ind. Rep - business opportunity- http://www.winnersteam.com/djt
> FULLERBRUSH Ind Rep - http://www.angelfire.com/oh3/fullerbrush
> DRI-WASH 'N GUARD - mailto: kleeman@one.net
> AVON Ind Rep - mailto: kleeman@one.net
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Sherrie Soleim <soleim@OREGON.UOREGON.EDU>
> To: <glass@bungi.com>
> Sent: Thursday, January 20, 2000 1:45 PM
> Subject: Re: soldering iron & temp control
>
> > hmmm... where did my message go?  I'll try again.
> >
> > ~~
> >
> > When I bought my Weller 100 about a year ago, I
> > was told specifically by the sales woman at the
> > store to NOT use a rheostat because it would
> > definitely burn up the heating element, and she
> > knew this from her own mistake.  :-)
> >
> > Sherrie
> >
> > NEICYDENN@aol.com wrote:
> >
> >   I just bought a new Weller 100 soldering iron
> > and am wondering if I should be
> >   using my rheostat temp control with it.  I
> > understand that the tips are to be
> >   changed when you want to change temperatures.
> > Will it hurt the iron if I just
> >   use the rheostat? (I only have 2 tips). I have
> > always used it with my old
> >   iron with great results.
> >
> >   Thanks in advance for you advice!
> >   Denise
> >
> >
> > --
> > <><><><><><><><><><><><><>
> > Sherrie L. Soleim
> > University of Oregon
> > Library Personnel Services
> > soleim@oregon.uoregon.edu
> > <><><><><><><><><><><><><>
> >
> >
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> >

--
<><><><><><><><><><><><><>
Sherrie L. Soleim
University of Oregon
Library Personnel Services
soleim@oregon.uoregon.edu
<><><><><><><><><><><><><>


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From owner-glass Thu Jan 20 12:56:54 2000
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X-Path: mtcon.net!shigbee
From: "Shari" <shigbee@mtcon.net>
To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: metal faerie bodies
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 13:37:17 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

> You will be wishing you
> have four hands,

Amen to that! I made a few butterfly ladies for Christmas this year--a big
hit, by the way. But tough to get those wings on just right so the bottom
just touches the table and helps balance her.

I tried both putting one wing on at a time, and soldering the wings together
first and then attaching them...haven't yet discovered the easiest or best
way yet. Anyone out there discover the secret that makes this easy?


> A nice look for the metal bodies is to smear on some gold Rub 'n Buff,
then
> rub and buff it.
>

Dorothy--I'd love to know more about this Rub 'n Buff stuff. Like what is
it, and where do you find it...

Thanks,
Shari



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From owner-glass Thu Jan 20 13:01:47 2000
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Gregg Wood <gwood@one.net>
Subject: Re: soldering iron & temp control
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 20:50:51 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk

OK  
I'll add that I think a temperature controlled iron should not be run on
a rheostat.
A rheostat is probably the only controller acceptable for irons which
have no internal temperature controls.  But why would you want to run an
iron that constantly heats up, getting hotter and hotter unless used to
solder, so draining heat away.  This must be why they are usually below
100W.  When you have a 100W + iron, some temperature control is a must
as there is so much potential heat.  I use a 200W iron (some say it is
too heavy) for almost all my soldering.  I don't find much difference
between the 700 and 800 bits, they both deliver the required head
without cool periods, at the speed I need it.

Steve

In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, Gregg Wood <gwood@one.net> writes
>I also have a great interest in this.
>
>I have _heard_ that using a rheostat on a tip controlled iron will
>"cause it to burn up".  I can see where this might be fact as using
>rheostat could cause the maximum temperature of the iron to drop
>below the 'tip controlled' temperature thus causing the heating
>element in the iron to run @ 100% duty cycle and I don't think the
>iron was designed with that in mind.  That might lead to premature
>value of the heater.
>
>At one point I was going to call Cooper Tools but have never gotten
>around to it.  Someone on Bungi has contacted them, but not about this.
>
>That's my spin on this but, seeing as how I own one of these bad-boys,
>I'm also interested in using a rheostat and don't 'really' want to buy a
>second
>iron yet...
>
>-G
>
>[snip]
>From: <NEICYDENN@aol.com>
>> I just bought a new Weller 100 soldering iron and am wondering if I should
>be
>> using my rheostat temp control with it.  I understand that the tips are to
>be
>> changed when you want to change temperatures. Will it hurt the iron if I
>just
>> use the rheostat? (I only have 2 tips). I have always used it with my old
>> iron with great results.
>> Denise
>[snip]
>
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-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Thu Jan 20 13:20:22 2000
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X-Path: webtv.net!alipearson
From: alipearson@webtv.net (alipea)
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII
Subject: software
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 15:37:32 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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   Does anyone know of any software for       stained glass designing
compatible with     (mac) computers ?

Ali

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From owner-glass Thu Jan 20 13:25:41 2000
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From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: NEICYDENN@aol.com
Subject: Re: soldering iron & temp control
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 20:38:46 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
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This question will bring out the two opposing camps - use and don't use.
(I'm in the don't use camp)
There are really only a few times when you need fine temperature
control, and they are mostly when you want decorative effects on your
soldering.  The rest is mostly experience.

Steve

In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, NEICYDENN@aol.com writes
>I just bought a new Weller 100 soldering iron and am wondering if I should be 
>using my rheostat temp control with it.  I understand that the tips are to be 
>changed when you want to change temperatures. Will it hurt the iron if I just 
>use the rheostat? (I only have 2 tips). I have always used it with my old 
>iron with great results.
>
>Thanks in advance for you advice!
>Denise
>----
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-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Thu Jan 20 13:29:04 2000
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From: "charlie hodge" <charliehodge@ltdarkpoet.junglelink.co.uk>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: re . un subscribe
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 14:28:45 -0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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For the short time I have been on this list, I have benefited enormously
from it, with offers of assistance from UK bungi's. (again thanks Allan it
was a great help) and technical advice from just lurking watching other
peoples questions. This is something I think we all should cherish. This
latest incident has lost us some valuable people with good input. The same
names crop up every time someone puts out an appeal.
Personally am a vegetarian, non Christian, with very deep beliefs, but they
are my beliefs, that I have discovered over the past few years and I leave
people to take their own pathway to theirs. Much as I don't like people
selling me their wares, I deal with it the same way as all mail that I do
not wish to read. It obvious that its a quote from the bible, if you want to
read do it,I'm sure that it may be uplifting for some, if you do not want to
read it (as in my case, find it not relevant to me.)don't read it.
I'm sure it must be more complicated than that as it seems just to easy.
Peoples beliefs, are their beliefs, I respect them as  I would expect them
to treat me the same.
So lets all keep a level of tolerance out there and use the list for its
full potential and hope the people who have left rejoin to contribute their
valuable information.   IF ANYONE HAS ANY PERSONAL COMMENTS TO ME CONCERNING
THIS MAIL, PLEASE DO SO PERSONALLY AND NOT ON THE LIST

all the best Charlie


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From owner-glass Thu Jan 20 14:43:39 2000
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From: Shirley Balloch <balloch@netbridge.net>
To: glass@intrastar.net
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: how'd they do that and e-bay question
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 14:20:31 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Precedence: bulk

Hi gang,
I have been looking around e-bay, doing a little market research. I came
upon a stained glass coke a cola panel.  The lettering is block print
and not soldered, so I am thinking they used flash glass.  The part that
represents the coke bottle is waving(thick)with the same style
lettering.  That one has me stumped!  Any one know how it was done?  It
is certainly intriguing since it has 16 bids on it.
And while we are discussing e-bay.  Has anyone here had any luck selling
on it?
Thanks in advance.
Shirley B
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From owner-glass Thu Jan 20 15:36:26 2000
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From: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@ix.netcom.com>
To: NEICYDENN@aol.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: soldering iron & temp control
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 17:21:00 -0600
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I use a rheostat and dont seem to go through irons or tips too quickly.

At the shop, we dont use rheostats, and I miss it.  It's so nice to have
the temperature you want for the specific job you are doing.

Tulsa  Suzanne

NEICYDENN@aol.com wrote:
> 
> I just bought a new Weller 100 soldering iron and am wondering if I should be
> using my rheostat temp control with it.  I understand that the tips are to be
> changed when you want to change temperatures. Will it hurt the iron if I just
> use the rheostat? (I only have 2 tips). I have always used it with my old
> iron with great results.
> 
> Thanks in advance for you advice!
> Denise
> ----
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From owner-glass Thu Jan 20 16:09:34 2000
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From: "Tom" <thomm@vnet.net>
To: <NEICYDENN@aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: soldering iron & temp control
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 18:44:31 -0500
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From: <NEICYDENN@aol.com>
:....am wondering if I should be using my rheostat temp control with it.
:... understand .. tips are to be changed when you .. change
temperatures.
Will it hurt the iron if I just use the rheostat? (I only have 2 tips).
:.............have always used it with my old iron with great results.
: Denise

Denise,

I don't know where you got the information:
    wondering about use of rheostat temp control
    change tips to change temps.

I've always used a rheostat temp control and *never* changed tips to
control the temperature.  The only thing changing tips allows you to do
is smaller or larger areas, the temp remains the same.

Tom in NC


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From owner-glass Thu Jan 20 16:16:07 2000
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From: "Tom" <thomm@vnet.net>
To: "Shakeel Abedi" <shakabe@pd.jaring.my>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: What a pity. Such a shame.
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 18:47:49 -0500
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No, Shakeel, that's not a true blanket statement.  Blanket statements
are never 100% accurate.  Loose nut?  Perfectly running machinery?
Details, please?

Tom in NC

----- Original Message -----
From: "Shakeel Abedi" <shakabe@pd.jaring.my>
To: "bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 20, 2000 2:45 AM
Subject: What a pity. Such a shame.


: It is always loose nut that brings down a prefectly running machinery,
isn't
: it?
:
: Shakeel
:
:
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:

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From owner-glass Thu Jan 20 16:28:29 2000
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From: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@ix.netcom.com>
To: Sherrie Soleim <soleim@OREGON.UOREGON.EDU>, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: soldering iron & temp control
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 17:33:05 -0600
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I apologise re: my earlier response.  I didnt realise you were talking
about an iron that already had a temperature control in it.  I just use
a regular old cheap 100 watt iron, and use my rheostat with it.  I've
had the rheostat for 16 years, it works great so I dont change it.  In 6
years of use, I've used two different irons, the only reason I had to
get a new one was the tips for my old one are no longer being made.
Warner Criv helped me find exactly what I wanted, btw.

Suzanne

> When I bought my Weller 100 about a year ago, I was told specifically by the
> sales woman at the store to NOT use a rheostat because it would definitely burn
> up the heating element, and she knew this from her own mistake.  :-)
> 
> Sherrie
> 
> NEICYDENN@aol.com wrote:
> 
> > I just bought a new Weller 100 soldering iron and am wondering if I should be
> > using my rheostat temp control with it.  I understand that the tips are to be
> > changed when you want to change temperatures. Will it hurt the iron if I just
> > use the rheostat? (I only have 2 tips). I have always used it with my old
> > iron with great results.
> >
> > Thanks in advance for you advice!
> > Denise
> >


Sherrie Soleim wrote:
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From owner-glass Thu Jan 20 16:30:26 2000
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From: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@ix.netcom.com>
To: Family Account <shad@mail2.nai.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: metal faerie bodies
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 17:35:14 -0600
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That's interesting, Dorothy, I had the exact opposite experience.  I
didnt have much luck until I cranked my iron up 
darn near full force. ;o)

Suzanne

Family Account wrote:
> 
> When you do attach the wings, TURN DOWN the heat on your soldering iron...I
> have to, at least.  I tend to solder hot, and if I don't turn down the heat,
> I just melt a hole in the bodies.  Also be careful with the fairies when you
> attach the wings if you want the piece to be symmetrical.  You'll want the
> wings to stand out from the body at the same angle.  You will be wishing you
> have four hands, so think it out ahead of time, else you'll do what my dear
> John did a couple of years ago while making one of those things....he
> started to pick up the soldering iron by the wrong end!
> 
> A nice look for the metal bodies is to smear on some gold Rub 'n Buff, then
> rub and buff it.
> 
> Dorothy
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From owner-glass Thu Jan 20 16:39:02 2000
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From: "Howard" <weaver51@teleport.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: 100's # of scrap glass
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 16:13:55 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Organization: weaver51@teleport.com
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I have been contemplating getting rid of MANY years of SMALL pieces of scrap
hand made glass. Most of the glass scraps are 2-3-4-5 color mixes.

Note: these pieces are from lamp shades and are great for small piece mosaic
work!  Most of it is primarily opalescent type glass. I doubt there are any
pieces much larger than 3 square inches. REMEMBER SMALL PIECES!!!!!!!!!

I also have ends that are bigger and can send some of them, too.

I have most of it segregated by color.

Should be easy to box up and ship as "breakage" is not a problem. I will use
the small sized priority USPS mail boxes.

I CERTAINLY want something for my time and expect YOU to pay shipping!

I will try to fill color requests and # orders, but NOT take a piece of this
and that type order.

Other choice is just to take it to a recycling depot or bury it in the sand
of my yard and be done with it.

My suggestion is to e-mail me directly, rather than a blanket post to
ALL(how many ever are left) members of the list..........

Feeling good after the last trip to the surgeon, off the cane and have no
pain at all.

Currently working on a 20" fly, and a 16" fly next!


weaver51@teleport.com
Elaine and Howard
best lamps on the "net":
http://www.teleport.com/~cbs/howard

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From owner-glass Thu Jan 20 17:22:54 2000
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From: Shirley Balloch <balloch@netbridge.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: ideas for glass
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 17:11:46 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Organization: Maiden Concepts
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Hi all,
I am spending my day looking at ebay(whenever the phone lines will let
me).  I just found curtain tie backs.  Ya know the things you mount on
the wall and then drape your window curtains around.
Anyway they were a flower and looked like fuses petals.  But just think
of all the possibilities!! Besides flowers I mean.
It was a thought.
Shirley B
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From owner-glass Thu Jan 20 17:44:34 2000
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From: "Candy" <candy@ghostman.com>
To: "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>, "Wayne Munro" <wmunro@mars.ark.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: glass at a younger age..
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 00 18:19:59 
Message-ID: <200001210119.SAA05344@mantis.privatei.com>
Precedence: bulk

Yeah, Wayne, I promote it all I can , on a personal level.. not wholesale.. Everyone 
needs beauty surrounding them, some more than others!! (that includes me!)

Candy
who currently has 8 students in her little studio

On Thu, 20 Jan 2000 09:19:13 -0800, Wayne Munro wrote:

>Isn't it great!! I was 45 before I started to work in stained glass and
>glass related hobbies. Now people are getting into glass at the tender age
>of 3 or 4!!! (At least mentally---Mind you, there are some countries that
>have prefered to bomb other countries for less!) 
>WOW!! Ain't this a great Y2K?


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From owner-glass Thu Jan 20 17:50:27 2000
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To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: how'd they do that
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 17:31:24 -0800
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Sorry group,
I shouldn't ask a question about a product when it is at the end of its
bidding time.  It is already gone from the list.
Shirley B
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From owner-glass Thu Jan 20 18:14:22 2000
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Sorry Charlie, I just had to respond to both you and the elist...

YOU are a VERY WISE person!

And I applaud you, privately and publicly.

Candy

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From owner-glass Thu Jan 20 18:43:59 2000
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From: "Peggy W. Johnsen" <edupjohn@slonet.org>
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Subject: Re: soldering iron & temp control
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 18:23:24 -0800 (PST)
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Denise:  You asked about using a rheostat with the Weller 100.  In a
discussion strand not too long ago it was decided that one could use the
rheostat (or not) without any ill effects.  I have a Weller100 with the
rheostat and have used it for about 10 years.  I have had to replace a tip
but other than that it serves me well.  Actually, if you do decorative
soldering you will want to be able to use the rheostat.  Peggy

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From owner-glass Thu Jan 20 20:03:38 2000
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Subject: Hot Glass Horizons 2000
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 00 20:53:14 
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anybody going?

do we get any kind of discount thru IGGA?

Oh Heavens!!! I WANT TO GO!!

(May 4-6th, Corning, NY, stay in the Radisson,, anybody wanna share? You have to 
pay March 15th)

Candy

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From owner-glass Thu Jan 20 20:16:11 2000
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From: "Howard" <weaver51@teleport.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: sizes of scrap
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 18:21:46 -0800
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Measure off 3 square inches...1"x3"  .5" by 3" .75"X2" remember SMALL
pieces!
........NOT 3 inches square!
My work is shades and there are few large pieces to start with in them.

I will send a post with a more accurate assessment of the sizes of scraps
(chips)!

Will also fill a box and see what it weighs over the weekend........
Main mfgs. Bullseye/old and new,  Uroborus/old and new, Yock.

Most of the scraps are un-cats, end of day, and non-production colors!
enjoy, H

weaver51@teleport.com
Elaine and Howard
best lamps on the "net":
http://www.teleport.com/~cbs/howard

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From owner-glass Thu Jan 20 21:34:59 2000
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From: "Howard" <weaver51@teleport.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: revised thinking on scrap
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 19:25:02 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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After carefully assessing (for about 10 seconds) my scrap boxes, please
disregard all of the prior information on sizes.....rest of it is still
valid!

NEW (and may even stay accurate) INFORMATION ON SIZES!!!!!

The usps boxes that seem a good balance for size of glass are 7"x7"x6".

I have a lot of scrap that will fit nicely, and may be close to
7"x7"......The real small stuff is not practical to use or try to sell. I
will try to send nothing SMALLER 3"x3".

I am leaning toward $1.25 a pound, or about $12.50 for a 10# box. Will
gladly round down the costs and up on the weight.

Most of the glass is handmade and most colors....

I will find out approximate cost per pound to about 10 pounds for USPS
Priority tomorrow.

Larger amounts would probably be more cost effective going UPS.........

I have glass that were ONE time only sheets, experimental colors and even a
few textures........well worth taking a shot at sight unseen!

later, H




weaver51@teleport.com
Elaine and Howard
best lamps on the "net":
http://www.teleport.com/~cbs/howard

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From owner-glass Thu Jan 20 22:52:32 2000
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From: "Bob Duchesneau" <bobdu@prodigy.net>
To: "\"Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: soldering iron & temp control
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 22:37:16 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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> When I bought my Weller 100 about a year ago, I was told specifically by
the
> sales woman at the store to NOT use a rheostat because it would definitely
burn
> up the heating element, and she knew this from her own mistake.  :-)
>
> Sherrie

And she MAY have been right. Some lighting rheostats function by changing
the voltage and this is thought by some to have unspecified drawbacks. I use
the Glastar Temperature Control which cycles on/off as adjusted.

The Weller W-100 comes standard with a 700'F 3/8" chisel tip. There are
other tip sizes and temperatures available. The standard 700'F tip is fine
for all but heavy work and detail/decorative soldering. It functions by
turning the iron on/off by the action of a bimetallic plug in the base that
contacts a switch in the iron.

When used with a temperature control the heat of the iron can be reduced to
about the melting point of solder and great control of the solder is
possible.

For my taste I prefer a cheap but light weight 100 watt iron with the
Glastar control. When the phone rings I turn it down to 50 and it will idle
there all day if necessary.

Bob in 92026



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From owner-glass Fri Jan 21 01:33:19 2000
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X-Path: bham.ac.uk!b.s.jones
From: "Jones B.S." <b.s.jones@bham.ac.uk>
To: 'Gregg Wood' <gwood@one.net>, "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE: soldering iron & temp control
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 08:49:11 -0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Gregg Wood.....
>>I also have a great interest in this.

>>I have _heard_ that using a rheostat on a tip controlled iron will
>>"cause it to burn up".  I can see where this might be fact as using

There isn't any easy answer to this as there are several ways of temperature
controlling an iron that are marketed world wide.
The main three are
1.mechanical thermostat in the iron body near the tip with electrical
contacts that disconnect the iron from the power when it reaches
temperature.
2. Magnetic release mechanically of the bit from the end of the heating
element when it reaches temperature,the elemement staying at the same
temperature.
3.Complete electronic control of the power(not Voltage) going into the iron
element to control temperature.

External controllers(Rheostats) can be used on the first two versions and on
irons that do not have any temperature control whatsoever without any
problems.
With the third one there can be problems with the destruction of the
electronic controller that controls the temperature not the iron element.
If that happens then if the iron is plugged in directly to the mains power
again then if the temperature controller is partly destroyed that could
cause over heating of the element so destroying that.It could also do the
opposite in that it could not turn the heating element on at all or on very
low so giving the impression that there was a fault with the heating
element.

Complicated isn't it


Brandon S. Jones
(UK)
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From owner-glass Fri Jan 21 05:03:48 2000
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From: lee tollett <leetollett@worldnet.att.net>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: soldering iron & temp control
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 06:26:39 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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    So what are you all saying?  Yes use a controller with the Weller 100 ?  Or
will it burn up the tip ?    I have not had to do any decorative solder work
yet, still a  (newbe) so the one heat setting seems to work ok.  I want to try
to texture a tree trunk in my next project, will the controller help me using
the weller 100  ???  Thanks

Lee tollett
Oklahoma City

"Jones B.S." wrote:

> Gregg Wood.....
> >>I also have a great interest in this.
>
> >>I have _heard_ that using a rheostat on a tip controlled iron will
> >>"cause it to burn up".  I can see where this might be fact as using
>
> There isn't any easy answer to this as there are several ways of temperature
> controlling an iron that are marketed world wide.
> The main three are
> 1.mechanical thermostat in the iron body near the tip with electrical
> contacts that disconnect the iron from the power when it reaches
> temperature.
> 2. Magnetic release mechanically of the bit from the end of the heating
> element when it reaches temperature,the elemement staying at the same
> temperature.
> 3.Complete electronic control of the power(not Voltage) going into the iron
> element to control temperature.
>
> External controllers(Rheostats) can be used on the first two versions and on
> irons that do not have any temperature control whatsoever without any
> problems.
> With the third one there can be problems with the destruction of the
> electronic controller that controls the temperature not the iron element.
> If that happens then if the iron is plugged in directly to the mains power
> again then if the temperature controller is partly destroyed that could
> cause over heating of the element so destroying that.It could also do the
> opposite in that it could not turn the heating element on at all or on very
> low so giving the impression that there was a fault with the heating
> element.
>
> Complicated isn't it
>
> Brandon S. Jones
> (UK)
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

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From owner-glass Fri Jan 21 05:12:39 2000
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From: rrk <ezbongo2@pacbell.net>
To: Howard <weaver51@teleport.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: revised thinking on scrap
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 04:52:58 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@mta2.snfc21.pbi.net>>
Precedence: bulk

Howard,

If all else fails, try eBay.

Regards .... Bob (in 95014)



Howard wrote:

> After carefully assessing (for about 10 seconds) my scrap boxes, please
> disregard all of the prior information on sizes.....rest of it is still
> valid!
>
> NEW (and may even stay accurate) INFORMATION ON SIZES!!!!!
>
> The usps boxes that seem a good balance for size of glass are 7"x7"x6".
>
> I have a lot of scrap that will fit nicely, and may be close to
> 7"x7"......The real small stuff is not practical to use or try to sell. I
> will try to send nothing SMALLER 3"x3".
>
> I am leaning toward $1.25 a pound, or about $12.50 for a 10# box. Will
> gladly round down the costs and up on the weight.
>
> Most of the glass is handmade and most colors....
>
> I will find out approximate cost per pound to about 10 pounds for USPS
> Priority tomorrow.
>
> Larger amounts would probably be more cost effective going UPS.........
>
> I have glass that were ONE time only sheets, experimental colors and even a
> few textures........well worth taking a shot at sight unseen!
>
> later, H
>
> weaver51@teleport.com
> Elaine and Howard
> best lamps on the "net":
> http://www.teleport.com/~cbs/howard
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

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From owner-glass Fri Jan 21 06:29:18 2000
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From: MATRONA@aol.com
To: leetollett@worldnet.att.net, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: soldering iron & temp control
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 08:26:28 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

I say no.
The temerature controller on a w100 is like putting an extra ON switch on a 
tv.  It serves no purpose, and may ruin the switch already installed in the 
w100.  you paid a bunch of money for that wonderful soldering iron.  it will 
last for many years of faithful service if you don't mess it up. I vote no.  
do what you want.
Anne
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From owner-glass Fri Jan 21 06:34:04 2000
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From: Witchdoc3@aol.com
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Subject: Re: software
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 08:43:18 EST
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In a message dated 1/20/00 4:20:55 PM, alipearson@webtv.net writes:

>   Does anyone know of any software for       stained glass designing
>compatible with     (mac) computers ?
>
>Ali

So far there's no "dedicated" SG design software for Mac. For what little 
designing I do, I use Adobe Illustrator. I've seen Glass Eye in action and am 
*almost* impressed enough to go out and get "Virtual PC" so I can run it on 
my Far Superior Machine, but I *do* have my principles, my dear....     :-)


Sparks
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From owner-glass Fri Jan 21 07:23:50 2000
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Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 08:34:18 -0800
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I believe I've been with bungi for about a year and a half and because
of a difference of opinion I have no intention of taking my toys and
going elsewhere.  There are always going to be disagreements among
groups as diverse as this, but if we keep it to glass, these
disagreements would at least be interesting.  Religion is a personal
thing, be it in a signature file or the body of a message, makes no
difference.  Let's keep it that way and stick to glass.

Carol T

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From owner-glass Fri Jan 21 07:34:17 2000
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Subject: Hi
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 09:30:56 EST
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Hi, Lee, I am on the Bungi list.  I have a Weller 100 iron, I don't use a 
controller, have used it for 6 years now.  I don't think you should use it 
with a controller, as it has one built in.  There are several different tips 
that heat up to different temperatures.  The package on the Weller 100 iron 
says, "Tip temperature of 600 to 800 degrees can be obtained by merely 
changing tip."  They are stamped on the end of the tips with a 6, 7, or 8.  
They have 4 tip styles for 600 degrees, 4 tip styles for 700 degrees, and 4 
tip styles for 800 degrees.  I hope this helps.  Sherry
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From owner-glass Fri Jan 21 07:42:45 2000
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Subject: scratches
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 09:34:58 -0500
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I have some old glass that has small scratches. Is there any way to buff
them out? Rita

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From: "Jones B.S." <b.s.jones@bham.ac.uk>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE: soldering iron & temp control
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 15:56:36 -0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk


>>    So what are you all saying?  Yes use a controller with the Weller
>>100 ?  Or
will it burn up the tip ?    I have not had to do any decorative solder work
yet, still a  (newbe) so the one heat setting seems to work ok.  I want to
try
to texture a tree trunk in my next project, will the controller help me
using
the weller 100  ???  Thanks

Lee tollett
Oklahoma City

There is no easy answer that is applicable to all irons or  only one iron.
The owner of the iron has to first find out from the manufacturer its design
specification ie
Is it temperature controlled or not if so how.Is it just a simple iron with
no temperature control and so on.
Looking in typical catalogues there are several hunderd irons that could be
used for SG work made by dozens of manufacturers.
This is mainly a non electrically capable list so anybody attempting
something like adding a separate rheostat needs to get advice about their
iron from a technically competent person usually not the clerk in a shop.
They then have to decide whether they understand it or not enough to attempt
to risk the cost of an iron to find out whether they were correct or not and
then try or as we say suck it and see.

Brandon S. Jones

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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
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Subject: New and Old
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 16:47:14 -0000
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Precedence: bulk





Hi All,

There have been an occasional influx of newbies these last 6 
months or so. Some with an axe to grind Others, luckily, only grind 
glass....

The same questions get asked over and over again, that the 
"Oldies" amongst us get slightly jaded by repeating the same 
answers time after time, when the archives are there for all to dip 
into.

These last 6 months I myself have been extraordinarily busy with a 
young puppy, redecorating my house, IGGA matters, new teaching 
situations, furbishing a new studio and last - but not least - my trip 
to USA to meet and be with many of you. I too have had to pass on 
replying a number of questions, deleting many e-mails I simply 
have not had an opportunity to ponder on. When 77+ e-mails end 
up on your screen and a good number of them are from someone 
who can't get off their high horse, I too find it irritating. It's 
sometimes a real toss-up whether to hang on in there waiting for 
the golden nugget (Like Brad Walkers wonderful fusing and 
slumping page!!!), or to unsubscribe also, as Dani Greer, Liz 
Arakalian and others have just done. Dani in particular is a great 
loss to Bungi with her knowledge, experience, common sense, 
pithy comments and great sense of fun. I also wonder how long it 
will take of this sort of nonsense until other great assets to Bungi 
will have had enough.

I also feel that we should try and rejuvenate the Bungi-Bio feature 
so that we can better get to know new people who have joined us 
and they us (I have a virtual complete file of past bios submitted by 
past people.... something like 180 - 200). Then perhaps there may 
be a greater respect fostered of where people are coming from and 
we may suffer current BS somewhat less. Anyone who feels able 
to pick up Patrick's tu-tu (...where IS Patrick these days???)
Just a thought....

Elisabeth 'n Toby in UK

who was immensely irritated by below missile and this whole 
thread;

> No, Shakeel, that's not a true blanket statement.  Blanket statements
> are never 100% accurate.  Loose nut?  Perfectly running machinery?
> Details, please?
> 
> Tom in NC


----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
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From owner-glass Fri Jan 21 09:17:41 2000
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X-Path: villagesoftsmith.com!steve
From: Steve Wernecke <steve@villagesoftsmith.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: software
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 08:58:41 -0800
Message-ID: <3.0.3.32.20000121085841.009c9640@mail.villagesoftsmith.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

>So far there's no "dedicated" SG design software for Mac. For what little 
>designing I do, I use Adobe Illustrator. I've seen Glass Eye in action and
am 
>*almost* impressed enough to go out and get "Virtual PC" so I can run it on 
>my Far Superior Machine, but I *do* have my principles, my dear....     :-)
>
>Sparks

lol...speaking of religion!

Steve
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From owner-glass Fri Jan 21 14:02:52 2000
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X-Path: home.net!esavad
From: Mike Savad <esavad@home.net>
To: Rita Tidwell <tidwell2@bellsouth.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: scratches
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 16:46:00 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Organization: Mike's Stained Glass
Precedence: bulk

Rita Tidwell wrote:
> 
> I have some old glass that has small scratches. Is there any way to buff
> them out? Rita
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


if there not too deep use cerium oxide (instructions on my tips page).
otherwise, cut around them.


---Mike Savad

-- 
Mike's Stained Glass - Tips Tricks Photos
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
9-12-99 - New Pages Added: 3 new Tips sections - Reader's Tips, Making
your own Glass Filigree, and Cutting Different types of glass. There are
also a lot of new Sky City pictures.
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From owner-glass Fri Jan 21 16:33:00 2000
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X-Path: teleport.com!weaver51
From: "Howard" <weaver51@teleport.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: final answer (maybe) on scrap
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 16:20:35 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Organization: weaver51@teleport.com
Precedence: bulk

This hopefully will be the last post to the group......after this we should
be able to do it privately.

5# of scrap $7.50 incl packing and handling

Up to 5* pounds will ship anywhere in the US for $6.50 USPS priority mail.
Usually 3 or 4 days delivery time.
5# fits nicely in a 7x7 box!
*will be a little less to be sure it does not go over weight.

5 pounds and over can be priced for shipping by zip code....for instance
10#s will be as low as$7.00 or as high as $15.25.



I have 5   5#  boxes packed and ready to go.......cost for each is:$14.00

e-mail me direct........








weaver51@teleport.com
Elaine and Howard
best lamps on the "net":
http://www.teleport.com/~cbs/howard

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From owner-glass Fri Jan 21 16:33:33 2000
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X-Path: ghostman.com!candy
From: "Candy" <candy@ghostman.com>
To: "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>, "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: NG:Re: New and Old
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 00 16:42:23 
Message-ID: <200001212342.QAA15397@mantis.privatei.com>
Precedence: bulk

I, too, have gotten a puppy recently, Elizabeth!! I got a black Pomeranian boy, to go 
with my Wolf Sable colored female... He even has a little soul patch beard in white.. 
quite cute! Everyone loves him (he doesn't walk much when we have guests).. of 
course, at 3 lbs he's a joy to cart around..

I named him Blackberry Fizzgigg, Fizzgigg for short. Of course, he's already earned an 
alternate 'short' name of Whizzgigg or Whizzie....

Candy

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From owner-glass Fri Jan 21 16:47:48 2000
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Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 13:21:52 -0500
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From owner-glass Fri Jan 21 17:02:12 2000
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X-Path: netzero.net!kseeglass
From: "KSee" <kseeglass@netzero.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Fw: soldering iron & temp control
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 15:35:08 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Organization: See Glass
Precedence: bulk

RE: soldering iron & temp controlHere is a response from Cooper Tools
KSee

http://members.xoom.com/kseeglass/index.html
www.ncagg
----- Original Message -----
From: Al.Hollister@coopertools.com
To: kseeglass@netzero.net
Sent: Friday, January 21, 2000 8:59 AM
Subject: RE: soldering iron & temp control


Good morning KSee,
The reply that Mr. Jones gave is basically correct. I will amplify a bit.

An external rheostat can be used on Weller 100 watt stick iron but since
that
iron uses a magnastat temperature control it wont have much influence on the
tip
temperature as you would see on a constant output iron that is not
temperature
controlled in any way. A brief description of the difference in each is:

A constant output iron is always operating with the heater on, with whatever
voltage is going to the iron from the wall/bench outlet. If you have an iron
that is supposed to have a temperature of about 900° at 120-volts but the
power
in your area is only at 108 volts the temperature will be lower. If an iron
is
rated at 100 watts at 120 volts it will be only 84 watts at 110-volts and 81
watts at 108-volts. As you know in stained glass the artist may wish to
reduce
the tip temperature. For this type of iron a rheostat is no problem. Also,
lowering the voltage while the iron is at idle will extend the tip and
heater
life, especially with the awful acid fluxes used in stained glass work.
However,
don't pay more for a soldering iron rheostat that has tip temperature
settings.
Since manufacturer of the rheostat doesn't know what iron you are using and
its
rated tip temperature, the input voltage at your work area, the size of the
tip,
etc. it cannot accurately say what setting gives what temperature.

A magnastat or other mechanically temperature controlled iron controls the
tip
temperature by basically turning the heater on and off by some sort of
electromechanical means. These irons are not affected much by voltage
variations. An 800° iron with temperature control will try to stay at 800°
no
matter what the voltage. If you use a rheostat to lower the voltage far
enough
to lower the tip temperature you will end up working the heater hard as it
will
always be on trying to maintain the 800° fixed temperature. This is not
necessarily bad as often soldering iron heater burnout occurs when a heater
is
turned on, just like a light bulb usually fails when turned on, due to the
voltage surge.

Electronically controlled irons/stations should not be used with rheostats.
I
have not seen any damaged as Mr. Jones has but electronic controls can be
unpredictable at low voltages. Weller electronic stations will function
properly
and maintain temperature down 100 volts and lower. Some temperature
controlled
stations on the market start to lose temperature at any lower than specified
input voltages. There are two real problems when lowering the input voltage.
As
Mr. Jones says some may be damaged. I have found that many makes lose
control
with low voltage and may in fact actually increase their tip temperature for
a
while, and decrease their temperature at other times, with no pattern.

I hope this helps. As you can see I really recommend that you use a rheostat
control only with constant output irons.

Best regards,
Al Hollister



-----Original Message-----
From:   "KSee" <SMTP:kseeglass@netzero.net>
Sent:   Friday, January 21, 2000 6:23 AM
To:     Al Hollister
Subject:        Fw: soldering iron & temp control

Hello again
would you let us know what is the correct answer. With the Weller 100 can
you/should you use a temperature control.
KSee

http://members.xoom.com/kseeglass/index.html
www.ncagg
----- Original Message -----
From: Jones B.S. <b.s.jones@bham.ac.uk>
To: 'Gregg Wood' <gwood@one.net>; <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Friday, January 21, 2000 3:49 AM
Subject: RE: soldering iron & temp control



|
| Gregg Wood.....
| >>I also have a great interest in this.
|
| >>I have _heard_ that using a rheostat on a tip controlled iron will
| >>"cause it to burn up".  I can see where this might be fact as using
|
| There isn't any easy answer to this as there are several ways of
temperature
| controlling an iron that are marketed world wide.
| The main three are
| 1.mechanical thermostat in the iron body near the tip with electrical
| contacts that disconnect the iron from the power when it reaches
| temperature.
| 2. Magnetic release mechanically of the bit from the end of the heating
| element when it reaches temperature,the elemement staying at the same
| temperature.
| 3.Complete electronic control of the power(not Voltage) going into the
iron
| element to control temperature.
|
| External controllers(Rheostats) can be used on the first two versions and
on
| irons that do not have any temperature control whatsoever without any
| problems.
| With the third one there can be problems with the destruction of the
| electronic controller that controls the temperature not the iron element.
| If that happens then if the iron is plugged in directly to the mains power
| again then if the temperature controller is partly destroyed that could
| cause over heating of the element so destroying that.It could also do the
| opposite in that it could not turn the heating element on at all or on
very
| low so giving the impression that there was a fault with the heating
| element.
|
| Complicated isn't it
|
|
| Brandon S. Jones
| (UK)
| ----
| For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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| Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
|

__________________________________________
NetZero - Defenders of the Free World
Get your FREE Internet Access and Email at
http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html


__________________________________________
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From owner-glass Fri Jan 21 20:02:04 2000
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X-Path: springnet1.com!jazz-sni
From: Don Udey <jazz-sni@springnet1.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Faeries
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 21:58:45 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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...Thanks to all that gave me input on locating & making stained glass
faeries...

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From owner-glass Sat Jan 22 01:31:10 2000
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Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 13:37:30 -0500
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<html>
<body bgcolor="Silver" text="Black">
<P></P>
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<tr>
    <td><P></P>
<P><CENTER><font color=white face=Lucida size=+1 sans=YES>E-Commerce is the
Future Marketplace where<br>
 at least 40% of all World Trade will
occur!</font></CENTER>
      <P></P>

<P><CENTER><font color=white  SIZE=+1 FACE=Lucida Sans>With years of Internet
experience,<br>
We believe we have the information you need!</font></CENTER>
      <P></P>

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<A HREF=http://www.postmanexpress.com/mailletters/h011700.cfm?email=glass@daver.bungi.com&DBname=Craftsmen&maincategory1=ECommerce>
	<font size=+3><B><I><U>More Info</U></I></B></FONT><BR>
		
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From owner-glass Sat Jan 22 04:23:15 2000
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From: Hilary <hilary@voicenet.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: software
Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2000 05:35:01 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Is there a web site for Glass Eye? A friend is looking for SG Software
for her Vastly Inferior Machine ;-} and I haven't been paying attention
to software for such machines!

Thanks a lot!

Hilary

> ...I've seen Glass Eye in action and am
> *almost* impressed enough to go out and get "Virtual PC" so I can run it on
> my Far Superior Machine, but I *do* have my principles, my dear....     :-)
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From owner-glass Sat Jan 22 04:56:19 2000
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X-Path: inter-prog.co.uk!support
From: "Alan Faiers" <support@inter-prog.co.uk>
To: "Bungi List" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE: software
Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2000 12:28:23 -0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Is there a web site for Glass Eye? A friend is looking for SG Software
for her Vastly Inferior Machine ;-} and I haven't been paying attention
to software for such machines!

Yes, it's at www.dfly.com - you can download a demo version that is fully
functional, except you can't save or print.
Alan



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From owner-glass Sat Jan 22 05:33:35 2000
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X-Path: massed.net!wmagdycz
From: "Elaine" <wmagdycz@massed.net>
To: "Hilary" <hilary@voicenet.com>, <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: software
Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2000 07:47:32 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Hilary,   It's   http://www.dfly.com/
I have it and really like it. Elaine

----- Original Message -----
From: "Hilary" <hilary@voicenet.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 22, 2000 4:35 AM
Subject: Re: software


> Is there a web site for Glass Eye? A friend is looking for SG Software
>


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From owner-glass Sat Jan 22 06:00:35 2000
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X-Path: aol.com!Mar333Wood
From: Mar333Wood@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Tiffany Cob Web Lamp
Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2000 08:30:14 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hi everyone,

I have had a request from my British friend and wanted to know if anyone at 
Bungi might have an answer.
    
    HI Marti

Happy New Year!

Here is a tough one for you.  A friend in Germany wants to make a Cob Web 
(tiffany number 235).  Please would you ask your friends at Bungi whether 
there is a pattern for this lamp and base available anywhere.  Picture on the 
E-Zine, page one.

Thanks for your help.

Ed
Ed potterton
Editor, UK Stained Glass news
www.stainedglassnews.co.uk

TIA 
Marti


http://members.aol.com/Mar333Wood/WOODMAR.html
ICQ Number:  19326169
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From owner-glass Sat Jan 22 06:03:53 2000
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From: Hilary <hilary@voicenet.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Re: software
Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2000 08:44:50 -0400
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Precedence: bulk


Thanks everybody! Maybe she can get that Vastly Inferior Machine to do
something!!! <vbg>

Hilary

> Hilary,   It's   http://www.dfly.com/
> I have it and really like it. Elaine
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From owner-glass Sat Jan 22 06:32:36 2000
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From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: News Release:Brookfield Craft Center
Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2000 09:02:34 -0500
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The following news release if provide by IGGA.  IGGA does not endorse
this organization, nor do we have any affiliation with them.  We are simp=
ly
providing a broadcast of their press release.

For more information, contact John I. Russell, Executive Director,
Brookfield Craft Center, P.O. Box 122, Brookfield, CT 06804
phone 203-775-4526 x 102  email: brkfldcrft@aol.com
web site: http://www.brookfieldcraftceneter.org
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Spring & Summer 2000 Professional Workshops Announced

The new Spring 2000 Program Guide for Brookfield Craft Center
is now available.  It details more than 80 arts & crafts classes &
workshops for all interest levels.  The Spring session begins in
April and runs through the end of June.  Summer session extends
through the end of August.  For a free copy call 203-775-4526 or
email the center at "brkfldcrft@aol.com".

The Center is offering students a 15% early registration discount.
The non-profit Center was founded in 1954 and is one of America's
foremost schools for fine craftsmanship.  The website contains
program information as well as news about the Center's other
activities.

Most workshops are 1, 2 or 3 day formats.  The average enrollement
is 6-12 participants allowing students to work at their own pace in
a relaxed atmosphere with personalized instruction.  The workshops
are led by America's foremost master craftsmen/instructors who =

travel to the Center as visiting artists.  Out-of-town students enjoy
overnights in local B&Bs or in nearby country inns.

Spring & Summer 2000 Programs: (note: edited to only list glass related
programs)

Glass:
Stephen Fellerman, Intermediate & Advanced Glassblowing, May 6-7
Chris DeMott, Glassblowing I, May 13-14  and June 24-25
Chris DeMott, Glassblowing II, April 15-16
Cynthia Saari, Behold the Bead, May 13-14
Connie Pollard, Caning, June 24-25

Design & Decorative Arts:
Charlotte Hedlund, Color, June 17
Jeff Havill, Perspective Drawing, May 5
Virginia Teichner, House Portrait, April 15-16
Victor DeMasi, Decorative Borders, may 14
Seija Floderus, Icon Painting, June 16-18

Special Interest:
Sandra Yahner, Stepping Stones, April 15-16
Jeff Havill, Cement Casting, May 20-21
Jeff Havill, Mosaics, June 24-25

Christie A. Wood-IGGA Exec.Director
Art Glass Ensembles
North Wales, PA USA
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From owner-glass Sat Jan 22 08:03:37 2000
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From: "Family Account" <shad@mail2.nai.net>
To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: metal faerie bodies
Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2000 10:45:43 -0500
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References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
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..(stuff deleted)
> > A nice look for the metal bodies is to smear on some gold Rub 'n Buff,
> then
> > rub and buff it.
> >
>
> Dorothy--I'd love to know more about this Rub 'n Buff stuff. Like what is
> it, and where do you find it...
>
> Thanks,
> Shari
>
The best selection of Rub n Buff around here is at the local Dick Blick Art
Store, so you might try local art stores.  Also have seen some in hobby
shops.  It comes in lots of colors as a colored cream.  Rub it on, buff it
off.  It will kind of highlight what you're doing.

Dorothy

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From owner-glass Sat Jan 22 09:02:54 2000
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X-Path: aol.com!MATRONA
From: MATRONA@aol.com
To: Mar333Wood@aol.com, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Tiffany Cob Web Lamp
Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2000 11:53:04 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

In a message dated 1/22/00 9:01:04 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
Mar333Wood@aol.com writes:

>     HI Marti
>  
>  Happy New Year!
>  
>  Here is a tough one for you.  A friend in Germany wants to make a Cob Web 
>  (tiffany number 235).  Please would you ask your friends at Bungi whether 
>  there is a pattern for this lamp and base available anywhere.  Picture on 
> the 
>  E-Zine, page one.
>  
>  Thanks for your help.
>  
>  Ed
>  Ed potterton
>  Editor, UK Stained Glass news
>  www.stainedglassnews.co.uk
You'll receive a dozen comments to this.  there is an Oddessy form for this, 
but I'm not so certain of the base.
Anne
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From owner-glass Sat Jan 22 11:35:42 2000
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Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: spamming?
Date: Sat Jan 22 11:11:39 2000
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why am i getting these message through bungi?

debbie


----- Original Message -----=20
From: Sundance=20
To: glass@daver.bungi.com=20
Sent: Saturday, January 22, 2000 4:44 AM
Subject: E-Commerce



Online Marketing



      E-Commerce is the Future Marketplace where
      at least 40% of all World Trade will occur!


      With years of Internet experience,
      We believe we have the information you need!

    =20
      More Info
      Explore your options
      in E-Commerce =20








Remove My Address From Future Mailings
REMOVE
---- For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com =
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
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http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3Dsilver text=3Dblack>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#800080 size=3D3>why am i getting these message =
through=20
bungi?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>debbie</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message -----=20
<DIV style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A=20
href=3D"mailto:sundance@postmanexpress.com"=20
title=3Dsundance@postmanexpress.com>Sundance</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>To:</B> <A href=3D"mailto:glass@daver.bungi.com"=20
title=3Dglass@daver.bungi.com>glass@daver.bungi.com</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Sent:</B> Saturday, January 22, 2000 4:44 AM</DIV>
<DIV><B>Subject:</B> E-Commerce</DIV></DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<P></P>
<P align=3Dcenter><FONT size=3D+3>Online Marketing</FONT></P>
<TABLE align=3Dcenter bgColor=3Dblack border=3D3 cellPadding=3D3 =
cellSpacing=3D2=20
frame=3Dvsides width=3D500>
  <TBODY>
  <TR>
    <TD>
      <P></P>
      <P>
      <CENTER><FONT color=3Dwhite face=3DLucida size=3D+1 =
sans=3D"YES">E-Commerce is the=20
      Future Marketplace where<BR>at least 40% of all World Trade will=20
      occur!</FONT></CENTER>
      <P></P>
      <P>
      <CENTER><FONT color=3Dwhite face=3DLucida size=3D+1 Sans>With =
years of Internet=20
      experience,<BR>We believe we have the information you=20
need!</FONT></CENTER>
      <P></P>
      <P>
      <CENTER></CENTER></TD></TR>
  <TR>
    <TD align=3Dmiddle><A=20
      =
href=3D"http://www.postmanexpress.com/mailletters/h011700.cfm?email=3Dgla=
ss@daver.bungi.com&amp;DBname=3DCraftsmen&amp;maincategory1=3DECommerce">=
<FONT=20
      size=3D+3><B><I><U>More Info</U></I></B></FONT><BR><B><I>Explore =
your=20
      options<BR>in E-Commerce</I></B></A> </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
<CENTER></CENTER>
<P></P>
<P></P>
<P></P><BR><BR><BR>
<DIV align=3Dcenter><FONT color=3Dblack>Remove My Address From Future=20
Mailings<BR></FONT><A=20
href=3D"Http://www.postmanexpress.com/program/removeactive1.cfm?email=3Dg=
lass@daver.bungi.com&amp;DBname=3DCraftsmen"><FONT=20
size=3D+2>REMOVE</FONT></A></DIV>---- For subscription changes, please =
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From owner-glass Sat Jan 22 11:40:12 2000
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X-Path: springnet1.com!jazz-sni
From: Don Udey <jazz-sni@springnet1.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Books
Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2000 12:24:59 -0600
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Hi everyone out there in Bungi Land!

I'm in Springfield Illinois and its snowing to beat the band!...one
quick question...does anyone have any back dated "Glass Patterns" books
they want to part with at a reasonable price?  Please let me know.  If
you want to e-mail me...jazz-sni@springnet1.com....Thanks a bunch!


Linda Udey

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From owner-glass Sun Jan 23 02:32:55 2000
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From: "studio@stainedglass.co.uk" <studio@stainedglass.co.uk>
To: Mar333Wood@aol.com,glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Tiffany Cob Web Lamp
Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2000 10:07:44 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

At 08:30 22/01/00 EST, Ed Potterton wrote - and I have copied my response to
bungi in case anyone on the list would find the info useful:


>  A friend in Germany wants to make a Cob Web 
>(tiffany number 235).  Please would you ask your friends at Bungi whether 
>there is a pattern for this lamp and base available anywhere.  

Ed - tell him to contact Tiffany GlasKunst AG - http://www.tgk.de - I am
sure they will be able to get it if it exists, and have lots in stock so may
even have the one he wants available of the shelf.
No I have no shares in TGK but we know Wilhelm, Friedrich and the gang will
try their best to help ;-)

Regards
EliZabeth in Bournemouth
http://www.stainedglass.co.uk

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From: "brown_gregory" <brown_gregory@email.msn.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: NG Anybody Home?
Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2000 15:23:40 -0500
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Or is everyone busy cutting glass?
Been quite lately is anyone still here?

Greg

Get paid for submitting and reviewing sites for HotRate
     http://www.hotrate.com/index.asp?ref=3Dmoonshiner
 =20




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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Or is everyone busy cutting =
glass?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Been quite lately is anyone still=20
here?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Greg</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Get paid for submitting and reviewing =
sites for=20
HotRate<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <A=20
href=3D"http://www.hotrate.com/index.asp?ref=3Dmoonshiner">http://www.hot=
rate.com/index.asp?ref=3Dmoonshiner</A><BR>&nbsp;=20
<BR><BR><BR></DIV></FONT></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-glass Sun Jan 23 13:02:17 2000
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X-Path: warmglass.com!mbwalker
From: "Brad Walker" <mbwalker@warmglass.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: Warm Glass site
Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2000 15:45:48 -0500
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Just a brief note for those of you who are interested: =20

I've added a number of new features to the Warm Glass site, including

-- updated gallery of artist works, now numbering 16 works from 10 =
artists.
-- improved beginner project
-- new section on Kiln Casting techniques and processes. 5 pages of =
info.
-- new logo (thanks to Bud Britt)

Next up will be a section on glass painting.  I'm still looking for more =
works for the gallery, for any photos that anyone might have of them at =
work or of shop equipment (to use in tutorials), suggestions on further =
improvement, and any comments anyone may have.

As always, thanks to everyone who's helped so far.  Please send comments =
to me at mbwalker@warmglass.com

Brad

-------------------------------------------------------------------------=
---------------------
For information about warm glass techniques and processes
such as fusing, slumping, and kiln forming, please visit
the Warm Glass website at http://www.warmglass.com



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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3500" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Just a brief note for those of you who =
are=20
interested:&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I've added a number of new features to =
the <A=20
href=3D"www.warmglass.com">Warm Glass </A>site, including</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>-- updated gallery of artist works, now =
numbering=20
16 works from 10 artists.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>-- improved beginner =
project</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>-- new section on Kiln Casting =
techniques and=20
processes. 5 pages of info.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>-- new logo (thanks to Bud =
Britt)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Next up will be a section on glass =
painting.&nbsp;=20
I'm still looking for more works for the gallery, for any photos that =
anyone=20
might have of them at work or of shop equipment (to use in tutorials),=20
suggestions on further improvement, and any comments anyone may=20
have.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>As always, thanks to everyone who's =
helped so=20
far.&nbsp; Please send comments to me at <A=20
href=3D"mailto:mbwalker@warmglass.com">mbwalker@warmglass.com</A></FONT><=
/DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Brad</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial=20
size=3D2>----------------------------------------------------------------=
------------------------------<BR>For=20
information about warm glass techniques and processes<BR>such as fusing, =

slumping, and kiln forming, please visit<BR>the Warm Glass website at <A =

href=3D"http://www.warmglass.com">http://www.warmglass.com</A></FONT></DI=
V>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-glass Sun Jan 23 13:25:39 2000
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X-Path: juno.com!mschatee
From: mschatee@juno.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Air temperature question
Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2000 16:10:32 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Does the air temperature in your workshop affect the temperature of your
iron and the temp that solder will melt?  Also will glass cutting be
affected.  Now that upstate NY is in a deep freeze my work area (which is
in the basement) is averaging between 35-40 degrees.  I use a space
heater ( yes I am careful) but it's mighty cold down there.  It seems
like when I solder the solder stiffens up so quick that my iron sticks to
my work.  Does anyone else have this problem?

Thanks for any advice,

Caren

________________________________________________________________
YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET!
Juno now offers FREE Internet Access!
Try it today - there's no risk!  For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
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From owner-glass Sun Jan 23 14:25:44 2000
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X-Path: teleport.com!weaver51
From: "Howard" <weaver51@teleport.com>
To: <mschatee@juno.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Air temperature question
Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2000 14:02:24 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Organization: weaver51@teleport.com
Precedence: bulk

I used to work in un-heated garage.
Temps here are much higher 40-50 in winter.
I never noticed any problems soldering..........BUT BUT BUT BUT,

I use a hot iron............ungar 1,100 degree heater in it.

also the 1,000 degree heater works as well.

If this temperature/soldering iron is a varying problem, ask the power
company if they are supplying full voltage during peak electrical need.
Seems some of the irons maybe voltage sensitive.

stay warm and careful, H
weaver51@teleport.com
Elaine and Howard
best lamps on the "net":
http://www.teleport.com/~cbs/howard

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From owner-glass Sun Jan 23 15:02:26 2000
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: mschatee@juno.com
Subject: Re: Air temperature question
Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2000 22:54:03 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
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In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, mschatee@juno.com writes
>Does the air temperature in your workshop affect the temperature of your
>iron and the temp that solder will melt?  
The melting temp of solder remains the same regardless of the ambient
temperature.  Of course it will take slightly longer for an iron to warm
from 0F than from 80F, but not so you would notice.

>Also will glass cutting be
>affected.  
A lot of people will tell you temperature does make a difference.  Being
in a temperate climate, the west coast of Scotland does not have a great
temperature variation, although it is far north of upstate New York.  I
would speculate that cold glass near a warm body attracts condensation.
Therefore the sheet is moist, rather than dry.  That may have some
effect on the way the cutter runs across the glass.  In any case, my
glass is so dusty that I have to wipe it with a cloth before cutting to
remove dust and grit, that I get rid of the condensation too.  

I have had glass stored tightly against other pieces (usually float
glass), which becomes "greasy"  I find it best to clean this off with
window cleaner (or soap and water) before cutting. The surface is less
slippery and all the dust attracted by the greasy surface is cleaned
off.  

The "greasy" surface is in fact glass corrosion. 
If you want me to talk about that sometime, I will.

Steve



-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Sun Jan 23 16:32:35 2000
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From: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@ix.netcom.com>
To: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
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Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2000 18:27:52 -0600
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I'd like to hear what you have to say about it.

Suzanne

> The "greasy" surface is in fact glass corrosion. 
> If you want me to talk about that sometime, I will.
> 
> Steve
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From owner-glass Sun Jan 23 17:28:32 2000
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From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Cutting Youghiogheny glass
Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2000 20:17:59 -0500
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Message text written by "Howard"
>Yock stipple  is a wonderful glass for lamps.......shading, open areas a=
nd
swirls.

Any trouble cutting the stipples? If so LIGHT pressure ONLY!<

Amen to that.  Cutting a batch of Youghiogheny right now.  Seven
full sheets worth of RG, SP and some HS.  Light pressure is best.

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
North Wales, PA USA
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From owner-glass Sun Jan 23 17:34:16 2000
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From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Update:News Release:Brookfield Craft Center
Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2000 20:18:03 -0500
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Thanks to Tim Byrnes who caught a mistake in my typing.....
...Christie Wood
------------------------------------------------------
Message text written by Tim Byrnes
>Hi Christie,
The web address for "Brookfield Craft Ceneter has too many "E" in it.
This is Craft Center is about 50 miles from me, so I guess I will have to=

make
a trip up there on some Saturday. I hope to get back to the Philadelphia
area
sometime next summer, so I'll have to stop and see your new studio.
Peace,
Tim Byrnes
<NOTE: the web address below is now corrected...>
"Christie A. Wood" wrote:

> The following news release if provide by IGGA.  IGGA does not endorse
> this organization, nor do we have any affiliation with them.  We are
simply
> providing a broadcast of their press release.
>
> For more information, contact John I. Russell, Executive Director,
> Brookfield Craft Center, P.O. Box 122, Brookfield, CT 06804
> phone 203-775-4526 x 102  email: brkfldcrft@aol.com
> web site: http://www.brookfieldcraftcenter.org<
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From owner-glass Sun Jan 23 18:31:12 2000
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From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Air temperature question
Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2000 20:56:51 -0500
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Message text written by INTERNET:mschatee@juno.com
>Does the air temperature in your workshop affect the temperature of your=

iron and the temp that solder will melt?  Also will glass cutting be
affected.  Now that upstate NY is in a deep freeze my work area (which is=

in the basement) is averaging between 35-40 degrees.  I use a space
heater ( yes I am careful) but it's mighty cold down there.  It seems
like when I solder the solder stiffens up so quick that my iron sticks to=

my work.  Does anyone else have this problem?<

Yes, we also experience this problem here in chilly Philadelphia.
With the recent cold snap, I can relate first-hand that a project we
were soldering (same irons, same 60/40 solder, same Flux-o-Matic II
gel flux) had considerable problems with the flux.  Instead of it behavin=
g
like a liquid when the iron hit it, it behaved more like rubber cement!
It was sticky and yucky and very ?dry? to the touch after soldering
instead of its usual gel/liquid state.

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
North Wales, PA USA
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From owner-glass Mon Jan 24 05:33:35 2000
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From: "Elaine" <wmagdycz@massed.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: Air temperature question
Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 08:03:13 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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We were having the same problem with this cold snap/cold basement. I find that
shining 2 clip on shop lights directly over where I'm working on my soldering
table or work table keeps the glass warm enough to aleviate the "cold" problem. My
feet freeze though. Elaine
>
>
> > Message text written by INTERNET:mschatee@juno.com
> >   Does anyone else have this problem?<
>
>
>


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Please send information re stained glass

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From owner-glass Mon Jan 24 11:03:52 2000
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Subject: re tempreture
Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 14:35:27 -0000
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I have found when working in extremely cold workshops, certain glass
develops a mind of its own(more than normal). I have then placed the glass
some where warm for a few minutes till warm then cut it. near the heater was
good just till its warm to the touch.
Happier now the workshops warmer and people are talking about glass again.
still here
Charlie


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From owner-glass Mon Jan 24 13:35:08 2000
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Subject: Wanted
Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 17:30:23 -0330
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I need tips for my sp175 weller soldering iron, anyone have an idea
where I might get them? Thanks in anticipation!

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From owner-glass Mon Jan 24 13:44:22 2000
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Glass corrosion
Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 21:24:46 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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In response to a huge response (one actually! -  Thank you Suzanne Gunn)
I will give my view on glass corrosion.

Glass corrosion occurs at the surface of all glass.  It has a rate of
about 1mm per century, explaining why not much early glass in good
condition is known.  The glass has an alkaline structure which is eroded
by very mild organic and mineral acids naturally present in the
environment.

Oddly, glass corrosion occurs most rapidly in conditions where the water
is trapped against the glass and is not allowed to drain away or dry up.
The action of rain on windows does not greatly affect the glass, as the
water flows off, and dries up, quickly.  Glass standing in large volumes
of water is less affected than glass with only a little standing water.

So, glass stored tightly sheet to sheet is more likely to corrode than
sheets with air spaces.  Have you ever noticed that glass manufacturers
ship their glass with paper or other separators between the glass?  This
isn't so much for cushioning (although it does a bit of that) it is to
prevent water being trapped between the sheets.

Sheets which have been stored tightly together in damp conditions will
have a slippery, greasy feel to the surface. This also attracts a lot of
dust, which stores more moisture and accelerates the whole process.

Now, don't get too worried, as the rate is very slow.  Roman glass
buried in earth still erodes at only 1 millimetre a century, so you
don't have to worry about loosing your glass during your lifetime.  The
erosion does not have any effect on the clarity of the glass for quite a
while, but does make handling more difficult.

Treating glass which has begun to erode is easy.  Clean the surfaces
with glass cleaner, polish with newspaper, and store so there is air
space between the sheets. It doesn't have to be much, just a mm or so at
the bottom and touching at the top is fine.

There is a lot more information about glass corrosion in:
Conservation of Glass, by Roy Newton, and Sandra Davison, published by
Butterworth Heineman, 1989, repr. 1997.  ISBN 0 7506 2448 5
especially pp. 135 - 164

Steve
-- 
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Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Mon Jan 24 14:51:06 2000
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X-Path: prodigy.net!bobdu
From: "Bob Duchesneau" <bobdu@prodigy.net>
To: "\"Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>, "Robert Crane" <robertcrane@thezone.net>
Content-Type: text/plain;
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Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 14:14:55 -0800
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>>I need tips for my sp175 weller soldering iron, anyone have an idea
where I might get them? Thanks in anticipation!<<

The standard tip is 5/8" in diameter and is an iron clad chisel tip. Any
stained glass store selling Weller irons should have/be able to get them. I
get mine wholesale from Mad Dog Stained Glass in Van Nuys, CA.

Bob in 92026


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From owner-glass Mon Jan 24 15:55:28 2000
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From: "Peggy W. Johnsen" <edupjohn@slonet.org>
To: Don Udey <jazz-sni@springnet1.com>
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Subject: Re: Books
Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 15:24:18 -0800 (PST)
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Hi Linda:  You ask about back issue of SG Patterns.  If you look at your
latest copy it will give you available back issues.  I believe they sell
them for about $3 each.  Is there one in particular you want?  Also, it
occurred to me if you are looking for a particular pattern, Glass Patterns
Quarterly publishes most of the patterns...they also have a list of the
available patterns in leaflet form.  Peggy

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From owner-glass Mon Jan 24 17:26:29 2000
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From: Shirley Balloch <balloch@netbridge.net>
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Subject: Vaguely on the subject of glass
Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 17:17:34 -0800
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HI group,
I am still grazing through ebay.  Have moved onto the garden section and
I ran across a solar powered pole lantern.
Now I know I prove my stupidity here quite often.  But doesn't solar
power only work during the day?
OK you can all laugh now.
Shirley B
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From owner-glass Mon Jan 24 18:29:21 2000
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X-Path: OREGON.UOREGON.EDU!soleim
From: Sherrie Soleim <soleim@OREGON.UOREGON.EDU>
To: "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Glass corrosion
Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 15:16:49 -0800
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Organization: oregon.uoregon.edu
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Very interesting.  Thanks for posting this information.  I was going to
request that you post it, but you posted it before I got the chance to
request it.  ;-)

--
<><><><><><><><><><><><><>
Sherrie L. Soleim
University of Oregon
Library Personnel Services
soleim@oregon.uoregon.edu
<><><><><><><><><><><><><>


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From owner-glass Mon Jan 24 18:59:16 2000
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Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 21:39:55 EST
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In a message dated 1/24/00 8:28:05 PM, balloch@netbridge.net writes:

>Now I know I prove my stupidity here quite often.  But doesn't solar
>power only work during the day?

Nope - these days, such devices include a battery that's recharged by the sun 
during the day, then the light comes on at dusk (usually via a light sensor) 
and stays on all night. They use special low-voltage, low-wattage bulbs. If 
you have several dark gloomy days in a row, these devices can get a little 
weak (especially if a major storm comes through and not only are they unable 
to get charged up, but they come on during the day because "it's so dark they 
think it's night"), but from what I've seen, for the most part they work 
pretty well. (My former father-in-law - a worse gadget freak than I am - 
installed a system like that for his driveway, and loves it.)

>OK you can all laugh now.

I for one am not laughing. As a professor of mine used to say: "The only dumb 
question is the one you didn't ask."


Sparks
    (no relation............ although I too have an awful tendency
    to glow a bit more feebly during the dark days of winter)
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From owner-glass Mon Jan 24 20:02:48 2000
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X-Path: aol.com!Witchdoc3
From: Witchdoc3@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: The Chihooligan strikes again...
Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 22:48:32 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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...this time in Philadelphia, at the new National Liberty Museum. There was a 
short report on the museum on the 6:00 news yesterday, and of course my first 
thought when the camera panned around the place was: "That's a Chihuly 
piece!" (which of course I blurted out, which in turn caused my Resident 
Significant Other to laugh hysterically.....)

>From an article in the archives of the local paper:

-------------------------------------------------------
New museum in Philadelphia puts focus on human harmony
By Marc Schogol
INQUIRER STAFF WRITER

New York has the Lady with the Torch, but Philadelphia now is the keeper of 
liberty's flame.

It is kept at the new National Liberty Museum at Third and Chestnut Streets, 
whose anti-hate, anti-violence, pro-harmony and pro-togetherness displays 
include the 20-foot-tall Flame of Liberty.

This brilliant crimson pillar of glass tendrils, created by noted glass 
artist Dale Chihuly, and all the other artistic and historic homages to 
diversity and harmony will be on display starting next Wednesday, when the 
museum opens to the public. [...]

Many of the intricate and stunning works of glass that accent and set the 
museum's theme come from Borowsky's extensive collection.

"The glass art is a metaphor for our freedom," said Sherry Hawk, the museum's 
director of marketing. "Glass looks very solid, but if you shatter it, it 
breaks into a million pieces. We have to protect it."

Hawk said a number of schools already have made arrangements for class trips 
to the new museum.
-------------------------------------------------------

The entire article is at <A 
HREF="http://www.phillynews.com/inquirer/2000/Jan/05/sj/PMUSE05.htm">http://ww
w.phillynews.com/inquirer/2000/Jan/05/sj/PMUSE05.htm</A>

There's a picture of the "Flame of Liberty" at
<A HREF="http://www.libertymuseum.org/
">http://www.libertymuseum.org/
</A>
For those of us within screaming distance of Philly (or planning to visit), 
the National Liberty Museum is at 321 Chestnut Street, Philadelphia (a few 
blocks from Independence Hall et al). Admission is $5; $4 seniors, $3 
students. Hours are 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Tues-Sun.


Sparks
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From owner-glass Tue Jan 25 00:42:46 2000
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X-Path: bham.ac.uk!b.s.jones
From: "Jones B.S." <b.s.jones@bham.ac.uk>
To: "'Glass@bungi.com'" <Glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RE: Vaguely on the subject of glass
Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 08:25:57 -0000
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>Shirley B said..

>HI group,
>I am still grazing through ebay.  Have moved onto the garden section and
>I ran across a solar powered pole lantern.

The solar panel charges a nickle cadmium battery during the day the battery
runs the lamp at night.

Brandon S. Jones


Shirley B
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From owner-glass Tue Jan 25 04:18:42 2000
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From: "Shakeel Abedi" <shakabe@pd.jaring.my>
To: "bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Lead lines ending in space
Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 19:53:30 +0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Hi everyone.

In my earlier message for help with bevel and fused glass panels sites, I
got so many sites addresses sent to me. Thank you everyone. On one of the
sites sent by Brad there was a some works that I found interesting and hard
to understand how they were made. An example is at:

http://www.waynecain.com/contemporary.html

the lead lines seem to start and end in space. And I wondered how that was
done. And as told me, perhaps some of the masters in lead work we have like
Elisabeth, pj and Dani could shed some light on this.

And does anyone have Lutz Haufschild's email address?

Thanks in advance.

Shakeel

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From owner-glass Tue Jan 25 05:02:39 2000
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From: Joseph Augusta <jaugusta@ply.adelphia.net>
To: glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Open sesame--tight lead came!
Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 07:51:48 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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How do I get the grout into the came when the fit is so tight a hair
couldn't squeeze inside there?  Grout the came first?  No, that makes a
mess! Open up the came, grout, then seal it again?  I hope not!  That's
extra work that may possibly delay my lunch! :-(  Or just go around the
edge of the came with the grout--but that doesn't seem right either.

Anyone?

Best wishes,
Joseph
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From owner-glass Tue Jan 25 08:21:11 2000
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Subject: Re: soldering iron & temp control
Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 11:11:58 EST
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Thanks to all of you for the responses given on my question!

The verdict is in, I will not be using the rheostat with my new Weller.
You are all so helpful on this board!
Denise
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From owner-glass Tue Jan 25 10:22:41 2000
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From: suzan e becker <suzan.e.b1@juno.com>
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Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: glass erosion
Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 12:46:54 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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I have heard that acid rain has had a disastrous effect on old class - I
think they mentioned
the York cathedral.  Any comment?
________________________________________________________________
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From owner-glass Tue Jan 25 11:04:38 2000
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From: Dani Greer <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: "Shakeel Abedi" <shakabe@pd.jaring.my>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Lead lines ending in space
Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 12:22:11 -0500
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Message text written by "Shakeel Abedi"
>And does anyone have Lutz Haufschild's email address?<

The last addy I have for him is:

lutz@glassfocus.com

Cheers,

Dani
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From owner-glass Tue Jan 25 11:34:44 2000
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From: Tony Dutcher <glassman@esatclear.ie>
To: glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re:Open sesame--tight lead came!
Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 19:26:50 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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When I came to Ireland to work across the pond, I discovered a different
way of leading a window. The first step involves stretching the lead of
course and then running a fid down the channel of the lead to widen
it...I have attempted to illustrate it below:
Normal H lead:          Widened Lead with Fid:
     |      |                       \       /
     |----|                        |----|
     |      |                       /       \
This should allow you  to use thicker glass. When you are cementing the
panel you could also try "thinning" your cement a little, depending on
what type your using will determine what type of solvent to use. I have
found that if the cement is the viscosity of maple syrup it does a great
job. after you finish cementing your window, but before you clean off
the excess, push the lead came flush with the glass with a piece of
wood.
Hope this helps....
Thanks to all who responded to my question earlier this month.
Tony Dutcher

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From owner-glass Tue Jan 25 11:52:16 2000
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From: "Walden, Kit" <KitW@MAIL.AOC.STATE.KY.US>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: lead vs foil
Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 14:34:33 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Hi everyone.  I feel like I'm opening a can of worms with this question, but
I'll throw it out anyway.  I learned foil but have taught myself lead and
much prefer it.  I actually HATE foiling.

My question is, which one is stronger?   Intuitively, I think that lead is
stronger, but the owner of the glass store says foil is.  Maybe I don't want
foil to be stronger because I hate doing it, but the adhesive backing just
doesn't seem as if it would form that permanent a bond.  She has to solder
wire into her joints and then wraps the whole piece in that woven wire and
solders that around the whole edge.  It just seems like a whole lot more
work than the one lead job I do.  She thinks I might be overworking the foil
and melting the adhesive on the back.  I haven't had any pieces come apart,
(although I have had the foil lift off the glass no matter how tight a seal
I get when I burnish) but I just can't wrap my mind around foil making a
stronger piece than lead over time.   

What do you all think, and why?

Kit Walden
Tuilelaith's Stained Glass

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From owner-glass Tue Jan 25 11:58:48 2000
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From: Dani Greer <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: Everyone <glass@bungi.com>, Christie Wood <ensembles@compuserve.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Need your help
Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 14:18:13 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hi everyone,

Recenly, I mailed out GlassPlanners to
all the IGGA members and two have
been returned.  Does anyone have current
address or other contact information for:

Diane Baker
Sue Vogel

If so, please contact me off-group with the
information.  Thank you all!

Best regards,

Dani Greer
Greer Gallery & Studios
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From owner-glass Tue Jan 25 12:24:25 2000
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: suzan e becker <suzan.e.b1@juno.com>
Subject: Re: glass erosion
Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 19:21:05 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk

According to my information, acid rain has no significantly greater
effect than ordinary (if there is any more) rain.  As long as the rain
runs off and dries between showers, there is no great damage.  In the UK
there is arguably less sulphuric acid  in the rain now than in the 19th
Century when everybody was using coal for heat and power.  There was a
huge amount of sulphur dioxide coming out of domestic and factory
chimneys.

Steve

In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, suzan e becker <suzan.e.b1@juno.com>
writes
>I have heard that acid rain has had a disastrous effect on old class - I
>think they mentioned
>the York cathedral.  Any comment?
>________________________________________________________________
>YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET!
>Juno now offers FREE Internet Access!
>Try it today - there's no risk!  For your FREE software, visit:
>http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Tue Jan 25 12:48:26 2000
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From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Shakeel Abedi <shakabe@pd.jaring.my>
Subject: Re: Lead lines ending in space
Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 20:01:46 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk

In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, Shakeel Abedi <shakabe@pd.jaring.my>
writes
>Hi everyone.
......
> On one of the
>sites sent by Brad there was a some works that I found interesting and hard
>to understand how they were made. An example is at:
>
>http://www.waynecain.com/contemporary.html
>
>the lead lines seem to start and end in space. And I wondered how that was
>done. 
Shakeel,
        German artists like Schiffrath after WW2 did a lot of hanging
lead lines.  This has spread widely since then.  Most often they are the
upper and lower leaves of the lead fixed to each side of the glass with
epoxy resin.  The glass under is not actually cut at all.  There is
still a lot of very clever cutting of glass in these panels, even if you
discount the hanging lead lines.

Steve

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Tue Jan 25 12:59:56 2000
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Joseph Augusta <jaugusta@ply.adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: Open sesame--tight lead came!
Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 20:06:49 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk

Well, Joseph,  my reply to this question wont be very welcome just now.
If the glass is 4-5mm thick, I open the came before inserting the glass.
It makes the glass easier to insert, and leaves space for the cementing.
The cement as usual.

 Alternatively, you can use high heart lead to accommodate thicker
glass.  High heart lead does present one problem if it is used in only
one area.  It is "taller" than all the surrounding came, so it sticks
up.  Therefore you have to be sure that you build the panel so the flat
side is facing to the weather.  I.e. all the glass should be down, and
the rough side up together with the protruding high heart lead.  Be
careful when fininshing the uneven side of the panel - a foam sheet
under the panel will help avoid breakages due to the uneven levels.

Steve



In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, Joseph Augusta
<jaugusta@ply.adelphia.net> writes
>How do I get the grout into the came when the fit is so tight a hair
>couldn't squeeze inside there?  Grout the came first?  No, that makes a
>mess! Open up the came, grout, then seal it again?  I hope not!  That's
>extra work that may possibly delay my lunch! :-(  Or just go around the
>edge of the came with the grout--but that doesn't seem right either.
>
>Anyone?
>
>Best wishes,
>Joseph
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Tue Jan 25 13:10:59 2000
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From: glasscc <joyce@mail.bright.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: lead vs foil
Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 15:12:59 -0500
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Precedence: bulk

At 02:34 PM 01/25/2000 -0500, Walden, Kit wrote:
>Hi everyone.  I feel like I'm opening a can of worms with this question, but
>I'll throw it out anyway.  I learned foil but have taught myself lead and
>much prefer it.  I actually HATE foiling.
>
>My question is, which one is stronger?   Intuitively, I think that lead is
>stronger, but the owner of the glass store says foil is. 

I think it more depends on the design and installation techniques than foil
or lead.  We have proof over the years that lead holds up, but foil has
only been around since the early 1900's.  In the end though, I think it
depends on which method you prefer, or were taught first, and are the most
comfortable with.

Personally I vote for foil!

Joyce
Garden of Glass
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From owner-glass Tue Jan 25 13:29:05 2000
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: "Walden, Kit" <KitW@MAIL.AOC.STATE.KY.US>
Subject: Re: lead vs foil
Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 20:54:39 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk

You are right Kit.  There will be a variety of responses stating firmly
that one is better than the other.  My answer is that they are
different.  I don't much like windows done completely in foil, but I do
use it where detail is required without painting.

So to your question: which form is stronger.
        I don't actually think anyone knows which is stronger (has
anyone done destruction tests?).  Tests to find this out would have to
be done on the basis of what kind of strength is required.  That would
be an interesting debate.
        Those who argue that the adhesive is important in the strength
of the foiled panel are not thinking very straight.  The adhesive is
actually the weakest part of a foiled window.  The foil acts as a
surface for the solder to flow around the glass on.  The solder forms an
H came just as the lead one.  The solder is harder than the lead,
therefore (so the argument goes) the whole panel is stronger.  There is
an undistributed middle here as harder and stronger are not equivalent
in the argument.
        In fact, harder and less flexible may mean more brittle. The
degree of weather and range of temperature may be important in the
longevity of a foiled window.  If a hard window is subjected to high
wind loadings or vibration or impact (door panel for example), it may
fail more quickly than one which has more flexibility.

        The question I would like to answer is which is more weather
tight? and likely to remain so?
        The adhesive on foil fails under (excessive) heat and so will
fail over time even without excessive heat.  Now this is not a problem
with strength, as the solder holds the glass in its "H" grasp.  What is
a problem is that the panel is no longer water tight.  When the adhesive
fails, moisture is allowed through the window.
        The cement on leaded windows, if done properly, will last for
many years.  (I have just taken an 1870 panel out of its housing, prior
to moving to another site, which is still almost completely water
tight).  Linseed oil cement is great stuff!

        I don't think there is a strength reason to prefer one form over
the other.  They both have their places.  Just go with what you like
best.  I happen to like leading best, as I can get a variety of line
widths, emphasising various elements, and even tapered lines, and
hanging lines (you can do hanging lines in foil too, of course). I just
find the lead came much more flexible.
        But I would never try to make a box, vase, lamp or other 3D
object in lead came.  At least not since the first (and only) one I
tried.  Foil is best for 3D work, I also use it occasionally for
detailed areas of a panel where the effort and expense of painting is
not worth while.
        (I also find that increasingly I use fused elements where
previously I might have used foil.  It is quicker, presents a more
painterly result and avoids the solder lines)

Those are my opinions.  Enjoy the variety of other opinions.

Steve


In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, Walden, Kit <KitW@MAIL.AOC.STATE.KY.US>
writes
............
>What do you all think, and why?
>
>Kit Walden
>Tuilelaith's Stained Glass
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Tue Jan 25 13:35:00 2000
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X-Path: netbridge.net!balloch
From: Shirley Balloch <balloch@netbridge.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: check out this site!!!!
Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 13:13:00 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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I just stopped on the first page and wanted to share this site.  There
is a beautiful glass flower bouquet the size of a brooch(I think). My
first thought was to glued it to a SG heart or candle shelter.
Enjoy.
http://www.splendorintheglass.bigstep.com/category.html;$sessionid$3MWQ11YAAAGAZWGIHUVXBMWYZA4S1PX0?CCIDs=651377
Shirley B
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From owner-glass Tue Jan 25 13:47:41 2000
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X-Path: one.net!gwood
From: "Gregg Wood" <gwood@one.net>
To: "Glass @ Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: lead vs foil
Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 16:19:49 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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From: Walden, Kit <KitW@MAIL.AOC.STATE.KY.US>
> Hi everyone.  I feel like I'm opening a can of worms with this question,
but
> I'll throw it out anyway.  I learned foil but have taught myself lead and
> much prefer it.  I actually HATE foiling.
>
> My question is, which one is stronger?
[snip]

I'll bite, what the heck, I haven't been involved in flame war yet.
(which probably just means no one cares...)

Here's my take on it.

Well OK, first I've heard this question before & I have to ask,
can anyone agree on what "strength" means.
It would be nice to have a common target we can agree on.

Are we talking horizontal, coffee table style, put a phone book on it
(localized force) and have no glass break but it sags & all the pieces
drop out on the floor?  Pieces crack but it holds together?  Nothing
cracks OR comes apart?  Can it just sag a little bit?

How about vertical.  Are we talking wind resistance (even force all over)?
Or just the ability not to buckle under its own weight?
Or if its hanging from the top, not to pull apart?

Which, unfortunately, leads to other questions like are we talking
little lamp-shade-shaped (say that 5 times fast) pieces, large
square pieces with mostly straight runs, long sweeping curves that
come to sharp points at one end?  Are those sharp pointy ends
cohabiting with other sharp point ends or do they get moral support
by large strong square or round pieces in the neighborhood?

I guess my answer is "It depends."
How's that for taking a side & sticking to it?

-G

I wish I had a witty, incensing signature.
But I'm just not that bright...






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From owner-glass Tue Jan 25 14:05:20 2000
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X-Path: OREGON.UOREGON.EDU!soleim
From: Sherrie Soleim <soleim@OREGON.UOREGON.EDU>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: lead vs foil
Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 13:33:07 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Organization: oregon.uoregon.edu
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I agree with you Joyce and I too prefer foil.  My husband on the other hand
prefers lead.  To each his own, I'll stick to foiling.

Sherrie


> I think it more depends on the design and installation techniques than foil
> or lead.  We have proof over the years that lead holds up, but foil has
> only been around since the early 1900's.  In the end though, I think it
> depends on which method you prefer, or were taught first, and are the most
> comfortable with.
>
> Personally I vote for foil!
>
> Joyce
> Garden of Glass

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From owner-glass Tue Jan 25 14:13:36 2000
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X-Path: swcp.com!lgoga
From: Larry Goga <lgoga@swcp.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: lead vs foil
Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 14:56:02 -0700
Message-ID: <v03130300b4b3c7d1614a@[204.134.11.198]>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
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Dear Kit,

When I first took lessons on how to work in stained glass my instructor
made the following point, and I have never forgotten it:

	"When it comes to working in foil, once your project is done, if
you		could wave a magic wand over the piece and have all the
foil disappear, leaving only the solder, your piece would still be intact
and just as strong.  The foil serves only as a form upon which to build a
bead of solder."

If your pieces of glass are not jammed one against the other, there will be
enough space for solder to flow between the glass pieces and create what
would be the 'heart' in a piece of lead came.  Depending upon the width of
tape used and the thickness of the glass, the solder lines you make could
have a thickness and width greater than that obtainable when using lead
came.  Also, any location where lines intersect should be inherently
stronger because the solder connection is made completely through the
glass, not just on the top and bottom sides.

Having said all that, the question of which type of panel is stronger
cannot really be answered without knowing a lot more.  It depends upon the
alloy of lead used in the came versus the alloy used in the solder.  It
depends upon line width and heart thickness.  It depends upon the skill
used in cutting the glass and assembling the panel.  It depends upon the
quality of soldering on the foil versus at a came joint.  It depends upon
the quality of cement and how it was installed.  And probably some other
things I haven't thought about.

Just remember that the glue on the foil doesn't count for anything except
holding the foil to the glass long enough for you to solder the pieces
together properly.

I hope that helps.

Larry

>Hi everyone.  I feel like I'm opening a can of worms with this question, but
>I'll throw it out anyway.  I learned foil but have taught myself lead and
>much prefer it.  I actually HATE foiling.
>
>My question is, which one is stronger?   Intuitively, I think that lead is
>stronger, but the owner of the glass store says foil is.  Maybe I don't want
>foil to be stronger because I hate doing it, but the adhesive backing just
>doesn't seem as if it would form that permanent a bond.  She has to solder
>wire into her joints and then wraps the whole piece in that woven wire and
>solders that around the whole edge.  It just seems like a whole lot more
>work than the one lead job I do.  She thinks I might be overworking the foil
>and melting the adhesive on the back.  I haven't had any pieces come apart,
>(although I have had the foil lift off the glass no matter how tight a seal
>I get when I burnish) but I just can't wrap my mind around foil making a
>stronger piece than lead over time.
>
>What do you all think, and why?
>
>Kit Walden
>Tuilelaith's Stained Glass


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From owner-glass Tue Jan 25 15:39:29 2000
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From: "Glass Expressions" <glassx@bardstown.com>
To: "IGGA BUNGI" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/related;
Subject: help with a glass
Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 18:09:59 +0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_000E_01BF675F.647C8760
Content-Type: text/plain;
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hi to all!  I've ran across a new glass and purchased it from a local store
that he call chinchilla (?spelling)  its clear and looks kinda like the
hairs on our arms when slicked down(I know what a discription) its very fine
lines close together and on the whole sheet it is distorted .  however when
i tried to order as chinchilla they said it was an old glass that was
discontinued - but this glass shop just got it in.  any help would be
appreciated.  thanks in advance ricky glass expressions
glassx@bardstown.com

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xDzmkBSkZp1KIEkcjZekPrtlc9kBp38FcY/YKFWSBTbRWr6gfVUsjIewKUiyTMqCE+yWL38Cf8IA
Pg8rLWeMxpn7eFFCdWVKRX51ozB6re6YEa9zx7SIh8zGuy5oCKn7N7krJ48yiCJryDGIhtBlmYkS
ydn3jiSMui4KwpPrS8mWGDU2laqSsIfzV8G8wGp8ERKEVMiibIm661BIqAkl1i8AiBh5C3AMdIRG
khOxfIkIgQZeoraURC4ThnWAKMYmkHkLiVmyG8xUGLM3MoLWKjCMxL5gorrhcya5WG/STIS6m5AR
+HjBZn/eJJPZ6p03eILRHM4xyGrIy2TV4wb8opKeks8tdhXwbIfuh2s0KnH9ljMjxL8FfXTwMbP9
LHgvqwWXZzt4K17dcZSNoCMjkn2R9zcLbYZ5yyyJyFZl/DKbfIBkkA8mPRNzF04qvdFlaFtqV8x3
MnyNkjcm/DOPFwfiMn8sXYUJAAA7

------=_NextPart_000_000E_01BF675F.647C8760--

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From owner-glass Tue Jan 25 15:41:42 2000
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X-Path: OREGON.UOREGON.EDU!soleim
From: Sherrie Soleim <soleim@OREGON.UOREGON.EDU>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Glass Eye
Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 14:30:58 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@daver.bungi.com>>
Organization: oregon.uoregon.edu
Precedence: bulk

I'm a newbie to glass so I wanted to get all your expert opinions.

I downloaded the demo version and like it so far.  Question to those
of you who have the full version ~ Is the full version worth the money?
I'm thinking of purchasing it but I want to be sure before I spend
the money.  What do you like about it and what do you dislike about it?

Thanks in advance for your opinions.
Sherrie


Elaine wrote:

> Hilary,   It's   http://www.dfly.com/
> I have it and really like it. Elaine
>

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From owner-glass Tue Jan 25 16:04:19 2000
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X-Path: home.com!cecnralph
From: Cecily and Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>,
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Subject: reinforcing strips when foiling
Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 17:24:16 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Organization: Grendel Studios
Precedence: bulk

I've finally taken as much of a large foiled panel (3' x 6') apart as is
necessary to fix the broken pieces.  (The Army Housemoving and
Demolition Service managed to damage it, even tho it was in a wooden,
foam-padded case.)

The gal that made it had reinforced it six ways from Sunday, using metal
narrow tape (probably steel).  Since it didn't prevent the damage (a
twisting force somehow), does all that reinforcing actually have any
purpose other than make it   **%^%+ hard to take the dagnabbed thing
apart - and add weight?  My inclination is to put some back in,
especially running from side to side, but not as much as was there.
(Please don't tell me I need it top to bottom since that would involve a
huge amount of work - and there is still a lot of area with the tape
still in it.)  Structurally it was really well designed with almost no
seam ending at a 4 (or more) way corner.  I'll be framing it with
half-inch brass came.

--
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************


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From owner-glass Tue Jan 25 16:47:45 2000
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X-Path: teleport.com!weaver51
From: "Howard" <weaver51@teleport.com>
To: "Walden, Kit" <KitW@MAIL.AOC.STATE.KY.US>,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: lead vs foil
Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 14:29:08 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Organization: weaver51@teleport.com
Precedence: bulk

Easy answer.the foil for some projects, came for others.....
ever see a small pieced lamp in came?
most of the came panel lamps over years tend to come apart unless
re-inforced CORRECTLY!

enjoy, H
weaver51@teleport.com
Elaine and Howard
best lamps on the "net":
http://www.teleport.com/~cbs/howard

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From owner-glass Tue Jan 25 17:52:15 2000
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From: MATRONA@aol.com
To: suzan.e.b1@juno.com, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: glass erosion
Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 20:19:12 EST
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In a message dated 1/25/00 1:23:12 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
suzan.e.b1@juno.com writes:

> http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
 Wow I'm on aol...  It won't let me access that page.  How's that for free 
enterprise.
Anne
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From owner-glass Tue Jan 25 18:19:42 2000
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X-Path: aol.com!Witchdoc3
From: Witchdoc3@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: lead vs foil
Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 20:55:48 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk


In a message dated 1/25/00 7:48:20 PM, weaver51@teleport.com writes:

>ever see a small pieced lamp in came?

Been there, repaired that............


Sparks
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From owner-glass Tue Jan 25 18:40:43 2000
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From: Witchdoc3@aol.com
To: undisclosed-recipients:;
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: NG Mostly cloudy....... :-\
Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 20:59:18 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hey all you right-coasters, nice weather we're having, huh? I spent 2 hours 
midday shoveling 8-9" of "mostly cloudy" off the driveway, and we've had 
another 3" or so since then. It's been a great day to stay inside and have a 
nice big bowl of homemade beef stew...........


Snowplow Sparks
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From owner-glass Tue Jan 25 18:56:27 2000
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X-Path: ix.netcom.com!gunnx4
From: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@ix.netcom.com>
To: "Walden, Kit" <KitW@MAIL.AOC.STATE.KY.US>, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: lead vs foil
Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 16:42:00 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

My opinion, and I dont claim any thing but my opinion.

I like foil and lead, and dont prefer one over the other.
I think each has it's place.  Not so much for the strength, but to suit
the design.  

I believe you get your strength in foil from you solder, not your
adhesive.  The adhesive with lose a tremendous amount of it's strength
as soon as you solder on it.

No panel is all that strong without reinforcement, unless it is very
small.  So...I think the question would be best asked
what methods of reinforcement are best, and how do you incorporate it
into your design without ruining it, yet getting the maximum strength?

I just built some doors at work.  I reinforced it as directed by the
studio owner.  We reinforced it horizontally.  They are tall narrow
panels.  Seems to me it will sag by bending over. Why didnt we reinforce
in both directions?

As far as foil and lead, I see a lot of panels in either foil or lead,
that I think would have been better done in both.
Like I said, just my opinion.

How much reinforcement is enough.  

Tulsa Suzanne
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From owner-glass Tue Jan 25 18:56:46 2000
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From: Witchdoc3@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: NG net constipation, was Re: glass erosion
Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 21:04:32 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk


In a message dated 1/25/00 8:52:51 PM, MATRONA@aol.com writes:

>Wow I'm on aol...  It won't let me access that page.  How's that for free
>enterprise.

I think the entire Net is slow today. I've been having trouble getting on 
line in the first place - must be that so many people are snowbound they have 
nothing better to do to ease their boredom than go web-slinging...........?


Sparks
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From owner-glass Tue Jan 25 19:58:31 2000
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X-Path: ilnk.com!andor
From: "Linda Jo Letscher" <andor@ilnk.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: NG Mostly cloudy....... :-\
Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 22:20:59 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Sparks,
It is even cold down here in Florida, but we don't have anything on the
ground to shovel YET!!  Supposed to get down to 9degrees with wind chill in
the morning.  Burr...
Linda Jo

-----Original Message-----
From: Witchdoc3@aol.com <Witchdoc3@aol.com>
To: undisclosed-recipients:; <undisclosed-recipients:;>
Date: Tuesday, January 25, 2000 9:50 PM
Subject: NG Mostly cloudy....... :-\


>Hey all you right-coasters, nice weather we're having, huh? I spent 2 hours
>midday shoveling 8-9" of "mostly cloudy" off the driveway, and we've had
>another 3" or so since then. It's been a great day to stay inside and have
a
>nice big bowl of homemade beef stew...........
>
>
>Snowplow Sparks
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


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From owner-glass Tue Jan 25 20:31:49 2000
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X-Path: mail2.nai.net!shad
From: "Family Account" <shad@mail2.nai.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Glass Eye
Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 22:37:51 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Here's one reason we like Glass Eye.  A couple of years ago, I made a mirror
for my bathroom, using the roses in the wall paper as the basis for the
design.  Last week, I pulled one of the roses out of that design and popped
it into a lamp design.  Then, to go along with it, I pulled that same rose
and another one, pushed and pulled them around, resized them, and so on,
until I had a panel design.  We also use another of those roses in a
nightlight.

We also make printouts of the patterns and carry them to craft fairs with
us.  Helps alot in getting special orders.

Dorothy

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From owner-glass Tue Jan 25 20:34:48 2000
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From: "Family Account" <shad@mail2.nai.net>
To: "bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Lead lines ending in space
Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 22:46:05 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

I have seen such pieces.  It looked like the heart was cut out of the lead
came and the lines continued onto the glass.  It was, however, an exhibit,
and I couldn't handle it and see how well the lead was glued down!

Dorothy, in snowy, icy, slippery Connecticut
----- Original Message -----
From: Shakeel Abedi <shakabe@pd.jaring.my>
......>
> the lead lines seem to start and end in space. And I wondered how that was
> done. ........

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From owner-glass Tue Jan 25 21:36:38 2000
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X-Path: beer.com!marketingtips
From: marketingtips@beer.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: FREE! Amazing 32 Page Web Marketing Booklet Available NOW !
Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 20:56:57 -0800
Message-ID: <6MR48902.4D1CG54M@beer.com>
Organization: WeHelpU Marketing
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____________________________________________________________ 

                 Re: Internet Marketing Inquiry
                     January 25th, 2000 

____________________________________________________________ 


Hello there,

I am inquiring about your online marketing efforts. I found your 
website on the PlanetSearch search engine (the one at 
http://www.bungi.com/glass/digest-9608  
in case you have multiple websites). 

How is the marketing of your web site going? If your internet 
marketing results isn't quite matching up to your expectations 
or even if it is, you may be interested in this FREE amazing 
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To obtain your FREE booklet click the hyper-link below:

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receive an e-mail with the URL of all the details.


Best of luck in your internet ventures,

Joe Huliganga
WeHelpU Marketing
mailto:wehelpu@esbho.com


P.S. We want to help you in any way we can.... just email us and 
tell us what kind of assistance you need:   

mailto:marketingtips@beer.com





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From owner-glass Wed Jan 26 01:36:07 2000
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X-Path: siri.co.jp!sey33
From: sey33@siri.co.jp (joe)
To: sey33@siri.co.jp
Subject: Private Offshore Club pays you by the Minute!.
Summary: Authenticated sender is <sey33@siri.co.jp>
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 00:55:24 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <200001263861HAA42523@lokijhuy7h.awalnet.net.sa>
Precedence: bulk


Hello,  

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-------------------------------------------------------
If you DON'T want to receive any email we will honor
that. Send an email to  ddn22@yahoo.com
-------------------------------------------------------
 





69048882230
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 26 05:48:01 2000
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X-Path: rea-alp.com!cricket
From: "Monica" <cricket@rea-alp.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Lead & Foil
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 06:40:06 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

I have done only foiled stained glass pieces. I have never been able to
figure out how to get the solder bead to stay on the edge even when turning
down my soldering iron. Lately I have had a lot of trouble with the foil
letting loose along the edge while trying to solder. In those cases I
usually run lead around the outside. I know nothing about working with lead
but have read in some of the posts that you are supposed to used some kind
of cement to set the pieces. Is this also true when only using it around the
edge of a piece?
Thank you for any input.
Monica

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From owner-glass Wed Jan 26 07:53:53 2000
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From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Glass Eye
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 10:07:23 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Message text written by Sherrie Soleim
>I downloaded the demo version and like it so far.  Question to those
of you who have the full version ~ Is the full version worth the money?
I'm thinking of purchasing it but I want to be sure before I spend
the money.  What do you like about it and what do you dislike about it?<

Definately worth the money.  I've had it for a couple of years now and do=

the vast majority of my fine art projects with it.
Pros:
- able to create at one size and then have it automatically dimension it =
to
whatever dimension I need
- it prints out designs on plain cut paper, with automatic tiling and pag=
e
numbering
- can scan in something then put it in as background and then trace over =
it
- it knows the difference between thin lines, heart width lines, face wid=
th
lines, etc.
- pretty intuitive to use
Cons:
- colors are not glass colors (yet)
- cannot import or export to standard graphic file formats (yet)

All in all, I can't do without it.

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
North Wales, PA USA
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 26 08:11:19 2000
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Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 10:19:33 EST
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Sparks,
We have 10-12" here in Delaware!!!  Just moving from Fairbanks Alaska a 
couple of years ago, it makes me feel at home again!!!  I love it.  :)
Kauriee
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
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Subject: Re: Lead lines ending in space
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 15:15:38 -0000
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-
Hi Shakeel,

The correct term for this technique is called "floating lead" and was 
 popular after WW2 to try and show off something "impossible".  
As Steve said, the lead was carried on into the panel, apparently 
without any cut, lead line, rhyme or reason and appeared to hang 
out there in an impossible space in the glass. In effect, the heart of 
the lead is cut out and the remaining face then shaped at will, and 
invariably glued on to the glass. It can be a very effective method of 
defying glass theory. Great if you you use it sparingly and subtly; 
obvious and gross if you "trowel" it on 
Elisabeth 'n Toby in UK


> In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, Shakeel Abedi <shakabe@pd.jaring.my>
> writes
> >Hi everyone.
> ......
> > On one of the
> >sites sent by Brad there was a some works that I found interesting and hard
> >to understand how they were made. An example is at:
> >
> >http://www.waynecain.com/contemporary.html
> >
> >the lead lines seem to start and end in space. And I wondered how that was
> >done. 
> Shakeel,
>         German artists like Schiffrath after WW2 did a lot of hanging
> lead lines.  This has spread widely since then.  Most often they are the
> upper and lower leaves of the lead fixed to each side of the glass with
> epoxy resin.  The glass under is not actually cut at all.  There is
> still a lot of very clever cutting of glass in these panels, even if you
> discount the hanging lead lines.
> 

-
----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 26 09:31:44 2000
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From: Joseph Augusta <jaugusta@ply.adelphia.net>
To: glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Thanks for glazing tips--
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 11:33:26 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Thanks to everyone who sent tips on glazing---now if anyone wants to
come over to do it for me.....

Best wishes,
Joseph
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 26 11:02:02 2000
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X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Press Release:Lamp Glassblowing Workshops
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 13:02:59 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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This is another press release sent as a service by IGGA.
----------------------------------------------------------------
Glass Master: Harold Wolfgang Eberhart
Lamp Glassblowing Workshops
3154 Shamrock Court, Ann Arbor, MI 48105
work 735-764-3385  home 734-9030
http://www-personal.engin.umich.edu/~eberhart

Recognized instructor in Pyrex Flameworking

Welcome to the formal certificate Flameworking Workshops, specializing in=

European and
American glassblowing techniques with 34 years of experience.

All workshops are about 30 hours long, Thursday through Sunday, beginning=

at 8:00am and
ending at 4:00pm.

The workshops are especially designed for your needs whether you are a
beginner or an
advanced student.  You can request instruction in your advanced workshops=

from
several styles of flameworking.  For example: Contemporary, Venetian,
Modern, Free
Form, Classic, or Traditional forms.  You may want to focus on: vases,
goblets, perfume bottles,
candle holders or other items of interest.

The courses are taught in Ann Arbor at Eberhart Studio with a maximum of
eight
students.  Schedules subject to change.  Travel Information is available.=


Course Schedule and fees for 2000: Flameworking workshop schedule, 2000,
total fees: $600.00
All students must pay by money order or bring cash upon arrival.  Please,=

no checks.  A $200
non-refundable deposit by money order is necessary to secure your
application, which will be
counted as part of your tuition cost.  Glassblowing equipment and all too=
ls
are supplied.

Schedule:
March 23-26
April 13-16
May 18-21
June 15-18

To register for more information:
Harold W. Eberhart   phone 734-764-3385 fax 734-763-0459  email:
eberhart@engin.umich.edu
-----------------------------------------------------------
Christie A. Wood-IGGA Exec.Director
Art Glass Ensembles
North Wales, PA USA
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 26 11:37:13 2000
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X-Path: pacifier.com!ptap
From: Pamela Burns-Tappan <ptap@pacifier.com>
To: "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Mosaic Teacher-Jacksonville needed
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 10:29:19 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Organization: MM Ltd.
Precedence: bulk

Howdy Ho,

Anyone in that area of Florida know anything about mosaics? If so, would
you like to teach someone how to do it? Let me know.

Thanks,

Pam



--

Ms. Pamela Burns-Tappan
Executive Director
The Stained Glass Artists
http://www.stainedglassartists.com
A Division of: Moswood Mountain Ltd.
http://www.moswoodmountainltd.com


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From owner-glass Wed Jan 26 11:42:54 2000
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Please remove me from the Bungi list.  Thanks.
Kenneth (Mike) Mikolajczak (klmxklm@aol.com)
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 26 12:08:43 2000
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From: "charlie hodge" <charliehodge@ltdarkpoet.junglelink.co.uk>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: re lead and foil
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 17:29:31 -0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

With edge beading, I have found the knack is to keep the edge as horizontal
as possible and be pretty quick when applying the bead. There is nothing to
stop the foil lifting, so excess heat will lift the foil. The other problem
is good foiling, if the foil is not 100% it will lift so easy, so wash glass
well before foiling.  I use a washing soda mixed in hot water, don't ask me
how much as I just shake the packet at the water, all I can say is that when
its enough the water feels silky on your hands. Dry well and foil,  pressing
the edge well down to get a good finish. Its all practise and we all get
lifting sometimes.
With a lead edge, I always tend not to apply cement, as copper foil is not
suitable for exterior work, in the U.K anyway. I tend to use a "U channel
came" to edge with and attach the bead to the came. this hold every thing
secure.

hope this helps
Charlie (cold but snowless in Norfolk U.K)


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From owner-glass Wed Jan 26 13:31:53 2000
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From: "Peggy W. Johnsen" <edupjohn@slonet.org>
To: "Walden, Kit" <KitW@MAIL.AOC.STATE.KY.US>
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: lead vs foil
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 12:17:16 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

The topic of lead vs. foil is reasonable to ponder.  As a teacher, I teach
copper foil separate from lead came.  It is much like the piano and organ.
Both use the same music but the instruments are clearly different.  The
copper foil method lends itself to both flat and three-dimensional stained
glass construction.  While you CAN do it in lead came, it is a bit more
cumbersome to use lead came for 3-d items.  The copper foil method is
easier for students to grasp because it is not quite as precise as the
lead came method. 

Also, copper foil panels in windows often crack because of the constant
expansion and contraction due to the sun and elements.  For this reason I
recommend lead came construction for panels that are to be installed in
windows.  The lead came allows glass to expand and is more likely to stay
intact rather than cracking.

Someone has already mentioned that the basic determination is
size...smaller sized glass pieces are easier to do in copper foil while
the larger pieces are easier to do using the lead came method.  Frankly, I
believe the glass artist should be able to do both (preferences aside).  I
will admit I find doing lead came more of a challenge than copper foil;
but I probably do more copper foil than lead came construction.  Peggy

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From owner-glass Wed Jan 26 13:52:28 2000
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X-Path: mtcon.net!shigbee
From: "Shari" <shigbee@mtcon.net>
To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: "Andon" Lamps
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 13:17:41 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

In the "Lamps for all Seasons 2000" calendar there are a couple of neat
oriental "andon" lamps. I would love to make one, but does anyone know if
you can buy the frames and/or lamp bottom... or anything that could be used
for this? It is just a beautiful tall rectangle with 4 glass sides in a
frame with a light bulb inside somehow...

Shari


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From owner-glass Wed Jan 26 14:32:27 2000
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X-Path: massed.net!wmagdycz
From: "Elaine" <wmagdycz@massed.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: Glass Eye
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 16:52:28 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

This is the latest from the people at the Glass Eye:

"I'm sorry to disappoint you, but we haven't made much progress on the
features you want. No glass colors, no imports other than .bmp, no direct
scanning..."

My other wish was to be able to export in a format other than their own .eye so I
can email a pattern to someone who doesn't own the GE and they can use it to cut
the glass pieces. Their answer to that is to paste into Windows Paint, however, it
pastes as a tiny thumbnail which is not of any use to me.  I still like the
software though. If I had it to do over, I would buy it again. The improvements -
I will continue to dream. Elaine


----- Original Message -----
From: "Sherrie Soleim" <soleim@OREGON.UOREGON.EDU>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 25, 2000 5:30 PM
Subject: Re: Glass Eye


> I'm a newbie to glass so I wanted to get all your expert opinions.
>
> I downloaded the demo version and like it so far.  Question to those
> of you who have the full version ~ Is the full version worth the money?
> I'm thinking of purchasing it but I want to be sure before I spend
> the money.  What do you like about it and what do you dislike about it?
>
> Thanks in advance for your opinions.
> Sherrie
>
>
> Elaine wrote:
>
> > Hilary,   It's   http://www.dfly.com/
> > I have it and really like it. Elaine
> >
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>




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From owner-glass Wed Jan 26 14:53:18 2000
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X-Path: teleport.com!weaver51
From: "Howard" <weaver51@teleport.com>
To: "Peggy W. Johnsen" <edupjohn@slonet.org>,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: lead vs foil
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 14:27:51 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Organization: weaver51@teleport.com
Precedence: bulk

"Also, copper foil panels in windows often crack because of the constant
expansion and contraction due to the sun and elements."

 a copper foil window (as any method of construction window) should not be
exposed to the elements.
as for heat (what gets a cu foil project hotter than 3 to 5 60 to 100 watt
bulbs.......I have not had any cracking due to that.
if there was going to be any cracking, I think soldering would have brought
it about.
i use mostly hand made glass and if any type of glass is subject to cracking
from stress that certainly would be it.
i usually attach the brass ring of the odyssey system by HEATING up the top
of the shade and ring with a TORCH.......yes, sometimes I do get a crack
from that, but with care, not often.
the few larger windows  i have done in CU foil over the last 19 years are
still intact!
of course if the handling and installation are not done properly, YES it
will crack curved and thin pieces,,,,

if i were to build a window with a lot of larger straight line rectangular
(although I cannot think of why) pieces, came would be quicker and NOT
require the exactness of CU foil as one has the width of came to hide
mistakes in......where does one hide a mistake in CU.....what does not fit
exact will not LINE up....note rectangles and straight line work is more
exacting that curves and free-form type windows.

some of the hardest shades are ones with grids, although they also (if done
right) assemble the quickest and allow for the smallest foil lines posible.
i usually cut a few extra shades (as in the turtle-backs) and just store the
trapezoids should I need to make another one. time is in the set up, glass
is cheap!


weaver51@teleport.com
Elaine and Howard
best lamps on the "net":
http://www.teleport.com/~cbs/howard

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From owner-glass Wed Jan 26 15:05:15 2000
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From: Rita Tidwell <tidwell2@bellsouth.net>
To: al oberloh <aoberloh@jps.net>
Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="------------5591E2037EF82A26671FFFEC"
Subject: [Fwd: Neat site]
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 17:32:32 -0500
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--------------5591E2037EF82A26671FFFEC
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Thought someone might be interested in this.

--------------5591E2037EF82A26671FFFEC
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Received: from mail4.bellsouth.net (mail4.bellsouth.net [205.152.0.4])
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Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 05:46:50 -0500
From: "Capt. Ed" <mbriglio@4ez.com>
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To: Amy-Chuck <Chuk5560@aol.com>, Charles W Saitta <cwsbss@juno.com>,
        Cheryl Miller <CMiller@ebsco.com>,
        Chip Robbins <"chip <j.ardella"@worldnet.att.net>,
        Christie <cwpugh@freewwweb.com>,
        Danielle Schnitzius Norwood <danielle@seahag.com>,
        Gary-Valarie <mrvtrav@aol.com>,
        Jim and Ann Beagle <jrbeagle@inetw.net>,
        John & Kris <kcjd@bellsouth.net>, Kurt-Dianne <ukfh@aol.com>,
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Subject: Neat site
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Someone has put together a listing of every High School in
America.
> > You find your state, find your city, then find your school
> > and graduation year. Then, add your name and contact point.
> > Soon, you can contact anyone from your class that is already
> > there. Whoever did this was very thorough.
> >
> > http://www.highschoolalumni.com/
> >
> > Be sure to forward this to everyone you know ... the more people
> > you reach, the faster this web site grows and the quicker you find
your
> > friends!



--------------5591E2037EF82A26671FFFEC--

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From owner-glass Wed Jan 26 15:14:16 2000
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From: Anthony Higson <tandg.higson@sympatico.ca>
To: Monica <cricket@rea-alp.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Lead & Foil
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 17:51:43 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@l.pop50.bellglobal.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Hi
I find that if I start to bead at the end then make the next drop of solder a
small space away from the first drop ,they will (should) blend together and make
a nice bead on an outside edge. Do this all the way across and there you go.  If
you drop solder a little too far from the previous one you can always remelt and
let them flow together.  As with most things, it does take a little practice
,but after doing it a couple of times,you will get the hang of it.
Regards
Gillian

Monica wrote:

> I have done only foiled stained glass pieces. I have never been able to
> figure out how to get the solder bead to stay on the edge even when turning
> down my soldering iron. Lately I have had a lot of trouble with the foil
> letting loose along the edge while trying to solder. In those cases I
> usually run lead around the outside. I know nothing about working with lead
> but have read in some of the posts that you are supposed to used some kind
> of cement to set the pieces. Is this also true when only using it around the
> edge of a piece?
> Thank you for any input.
> Monica
>
> ----
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 26 15:29:34 2000
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From: "ML Eveland" <maryloueveland@home.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
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Subject: GlasDesign System
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 17:11:40 -0600
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0025_01BF6820.6936BB60
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
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Is anyone familiar with the GlasDesign System?  The url for their =
website is http://www.glasdesign.com/ .  We are contemplating purchasing =
this system for our shop and would like any feedback from anyone who has =
used it or knows anyone that has.

Thank you in advance for your information.

Mary Lou Eveland
Stained Glass Unlimited
www.stainedglassunl.com


------=_NextPart_000_0025_01BF6820.6936BB60
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
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<BODY bgColor=3D#e8e8f0>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Is anyone familiar with the =
GlasDesign=20
System?&nbsp; The url for their website is <A=20
href=3D"http://www.glasdesign.com/">http://www.glasdesign.com/</A>&nbsp;.=
&nbsp; We=20
are contemplating purchasing this system for our shop and would like any =

feedback from anyone who has used it or knows anyone that =
has.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Thank you in advance for your=20
information.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Mary Lou Eveland</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Stained Glass Unlimited</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"http://www.stainedglassunl.com">www.stainedglassunl.com</A></FONT=
></DIV>
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 26 15:34:00 2000
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X-Path: alpha.nad.adelphia.net!alewis
From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@alpha.nad.adelphia.net>
To: sales@coloradoblossoms.com, jschell@glassschell.com, bharrbharr@aol.com,
Subject: The Color of Light - a recommended book!
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@POP>
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 16:47:12 +0000
Message-ID: <200001262149.QAA17761@alpha.nad.adelphia.net>
Precedence: bulk

Julie Sloan just brought in Sarah Hall's "Color of Light - 
Commissioning Stained Glass for a Church," saying she found it to be 
one of the best stained glass books she seen recently. She recommends 
it highly.

So we've added it to our list at Art in Architecture Press ... for 
more about the book, see http://aiap.com/

We think you'll be pleased. And remember, IGGA members get a 10% 
Supporting Supplier's discount.

Art in Architecture Press
54 Cherry Street, North Adams MA 01247
(413) 663-7946     Fax: (413) 663-7167
http://www.aiap.com/ [Home Page]
http://www.aiap.com/amazon/ [2300+ Glass Books!]


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From owner-glass Wed Jan 26 15:38:30 2000
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X-Path: ix.netcom.com!gunnx4
From: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@ix.netcom.com>
To: "Peggy W. Johnsen" <edupjohn@slonet.org>, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: lead vs foil
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 16:56:44 -0600
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References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
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So many people I respect say that.  But I dont get it.
I do both, and it seems to me that you can get away with far less
cutting skill with lead than with copperfoil.

 To me, the only thing harder about doing a lead panel is mitering your
lead to meet up neatly.  I will be ever so thank ful if I am ever able
to eyeball it like some people can.

Suzanne

"Peggy W. Johnsen" wrote:
> The copper foil method is
> easier for students to grasp because it is not quite as precise as the lead came method. 
>
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 26 16:08:56 2000
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From: Dani Greer <GreerStudios@compuserve.com>
To: Everyone <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: The Color of Light - a recommended book!
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 18:35:30 -0500
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Message text written by INTERNET:info@aiap.com
>Julie Sloan just brought in Sarah Hall's "Color of Light - =

Commissioning Stained Glass for a Church," saying she found it to be =

one of the best stained glass books she seen recently. She recommends =

it highly.<

The book is excellent.... we picked it up at it's
debut at Form/Reform in Oct. and I have been
promoting it since by sending one of Sarah's cards
along with my promo material to churches and
synagogues.  The publisher is Liturgy Training
Publications and their number is 1-800-933-1800.
The Environment & Art Newsletter is also available
through them, a must-have for liturgical artists, as
well as well as their publication, "Pope John Paul II
Letter to Artists".  When seeking commissions =

from the Catholic Church (or any denomination),
it's helpful to have done your homework and reading
these kinds of publications will give you the edge!
Check out their website at www.ltp.org.

Best regards,

Dani Greer
Greer Gallery & Studios
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 26 16:28:38 2000
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From: "Candy" <candy@ghostman.com>
To: "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>, "Linda Jo Letscher" <andor@ilnk.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: NG Mostly cloudy....... :-\
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 00 16:42:15 
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Geez, and it's been warm here, till today..Denver is 35 degrees right now, with what they 
call snow showers.. looks like snow but ain't ... no accumulation.. not much snow this 
year at all.. barefoot walk to the mailbox just about every day..

Wishing for 2 ft of snow..

Candy

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From owner-glass Wed Jan 26 17:39:13 2000
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From: "Howard" <weaver51@teleport.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: non-stick foil observation
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 17:13:14 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Organization: weaver51@teleport.com
Precedence: bulk

While foiling and being mind numb, I mused over the lack of foil sticking
for some of us.

I  JUST rinse the glass in a strainer (no fancy additives to the water) with
what ever temp of water comes out of the spigot.
Dry the glass with a towel, or my shirt and proceed to foil.

I USE ONLY Venture as I think it is stickier than edco (have not used edco
in a decade or more).

NOW for an observation......Are you using an OIL cutter that is swimming in
oil and leaving enough oil on the glass to make very slippery and enough to
do an oil change in the car????? WHY is their oil in your oil cutter.....my
instructor told me so!

Old reason for oiling a cutter PROBABLY went out with the throw away steel
wheel cutters....some of you may even remember them?

If I am going to do a lot of cutting (hours) I will put a DROP of oil on the
axle of the cutting head and then wipe it off (usually on my shirt). Perhaps
that it is why I have no trouble with the foil sticking,,,,,,,no oil on the
glass!!!!! But my one shirt is a bit oily.

Also DO NOT forget to burnish the foil onto the glass!

When I have to re-foil a piece of glass for whatever reason, the foil has to
removed with a razor blade as it will NOT peel off by pulling.

Be brave, be daring, be the first on your block,fly in face of
tradition........drain the oil from your cutter(s) cut dry and see if the
world ends!!!!!
as an aside I only get a few years of heavy use out of a carbide cutter
head!
 Way too much time to spend with the keyboard............ENJOY, H


I NEVER put oil in my cutters,
weaver51@teleport.com
Elaine and Howard
best lamps on the "net":
http://www.teleport.com/~cbs/howard

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From owner-glass Wed Jan 26 18:07:31 2000
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From: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@ix.netcom.com>
To: Candy <candy@ghostman.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: NG Mostly cloudy....... :-\
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 18:44:10 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Precedence: bulk

lol...looking for Tulsa to shut down in the morning! 

 We have
a little over an inch pf snow so far, but the weather man keeps talking
about a winter storm to remember!  Says we could get up to a foot of
snow tomorrow?  I'll believe it when I see it.
Meanwhile, I do expect that the schoools will be closed tomorrow.  No
one around here is the least prepared to deal with ice and snow.  We
have no special winter tires, or chains or what ever people that get
snow have in the winter.

Candy wrote:
> 
> Geez, and it's been warm here, till today..Denver is 35 degrees right now, with what they
> call snow showers.. looks like snow but ain't ... no accumulation.. not much snow this
> year at all.. barefoot walk to the mailbox just about every day..
> 
> Wishing for 2 ft of snow..
> 
> Candy
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 26 19:12:24 2000
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From: MATRONA@aol.com
To: gunnx4@ix.netcom.com, edupjohn@slonet.org, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: lead vs foil
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 20:45:49 EST
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In a message dated 1/26/00 6:38:59 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
gunnx4@ix.netcom.com writes:

> So many people I respect say that.  But I dont get it.
>  I do both, and it seems to me that you can get away with far less
>  cutting skill with lead than with copperfoil.
>  
>   To me, the only thing harder about doing a lead panel is mitering your
>  lead to meet up neatly.  I will be ever so thank ful if I am ever able
>  to eyeball it like some people can.
>  
>  Suzanne
I disagree entirely about leading being easier, or needing less cutting 
skill. I love to lead.  In fact it's about all i do and the only thing easy 
about leading is the way it seems a bit easier to make a professional looking 
job of whatever you're making.  It's actually harder to make a well leaded 
window.
You really don't have the open floor plan, so you have to keep adjusting to 
make things right.  it's not easier, but to me, it's a whole philosophy of 
difference.  as Foiling is more like putting together a puzzle, and leading 
is more of a building process.  WHEW!
Anne
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From owner-glass Wed Jan 26 19:13:09 2000
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From: "ML Eveland" <maryloueveland@home.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: GlasDesign System......again
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 20:44:12 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

I'm sorry about the previous message, I forgot that I had HTML format
selected.  Below is the same message with out all of the extra stuff.

----- Original Message -----
From: ML Eveland
To: glass@bungi.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2000 5:11 PM
Subject: GlasDesign System


Is anyone familiar with the GlasDesign System?  The url for their website is
http://www.glasdesign.com/ .  We are contemplating purchasing this system
for our shop and would like any feedback from anyone who has used it or
knows anyone that has.

Thank you in advance for your information.

Mary Lou Eveland
Stained Glass Unlimited
www.stainedglassunl.com

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From owner-glass Wed Jan 26 20:18:23 2000
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From: "Candy" <candy@ghostman.com>
To: "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: non-stick foil observation
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 00 20:24:42 
Message-ID: <200001270324.UAA12924@mantis.privatei.com>
Precedence: bulk

I just wipe mine down with alcohol just before I foil.. and yes, I have to remove mine with 
a razor too.

Candy

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From owner-glass Thu Jan 27 03:44:26 2000
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From: "studio@stainedglass.co.uk" <studio@stainedglass.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: lead vs foil
Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2000 10:56:54 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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At 16:56 26/01/00 -0600, Suzanne wrote:
>So many people I respect say that.  But I dont get it.
>I do both, and it seems to me that you can get away with far less
>cutting skill with lead than with copperfoil.
>
>"Peggy W. Johnsen" wrote:
>> The copper foil method is
>> easier for students to grasp because it is not quite as precise as the
lead came method. 
>>

I would agree that beginner students usually find the copper foil method
easier to get to grips - and the nature of construction makes even a poorly
designed, cut and soldered piece hold together and look good (to non-stained
glassers at least).  Meaning that their first few projects can be admired by
their family and friends, which is a real boost to beginners struggling to
cut to pattern!
I always tell my students not to let anyone know if they have to "adapt" the
design to allow for mistakes - call it "progressive designing" if they have
to mention it at all.
And to be honest - it normally doesnt matter if a copper foil project grows
or shrinks in the making - as it is usually freehanging or standing - and
does it really matter if a lampshade is 1/2 an inch bigger than intended, or
the pattern not exactly matching on opposite sides?!

EliZabeth in Bournemouth
http://www.stainedglass.co.uk

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From owner-glass Thu Jan 27 04:53:07 2000
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From: lee tollett <leetollett@worldnet.att.net>
To: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@ix.netcom.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: NG Mostly cloudy....... :-\
Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2000 05:47:48 -0600
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Precedence: bulk

We got 7 inches here in OKC yesterday... LOVE IT  !!!!!       Lee

Suzanne Gunn wrote:

> lol...looking for Tulsa to shut down in the morning!
>
>  We have
> a little over an inch pf snow so far, but the weather man keeps talking
> about a winter storm to remember!  Says we could get up to a foot of
> snow tomorrow?  I'll believe it when I see it.
> Meanwhile, I do expect that the schoools will be closed tomorrow.  No
> one around here is the least prepared to deal with ice and snow.  We
> have no special winter tires, or chains or what ever people that get
> snow have in the winter.
>
> Candy wrote:
> >
> > Geez, and it's been warm here, till today..Denver is 35 degrees right now, with what they
> > call snow showers.. looks like snow but ain't ... no accumulation.. not much snow this
> > year at all.. barefoot walk to the mailbox just about every day..
> >
> > Wishing for 2 ft of snow..
> >
> > Candy
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

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From owner-glass Thu Jan 27 07:58:39 2000
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From: Witchdoc3@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: non-stick foil observation
Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2000 09:58:37 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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In a message dated 1/26/00 8:39:47 PM, weaver51@teleport.com writes:

>I  JUST rinse the glass in a strainer (no fancy additives to the water)
>with what ever temp of water comes out of the spigot.
>Dry the glass with a towel, or my shirt and proceed to foil.

I find that residual glass dust, not residual oil, is the biggest obstacle to 
getting foil to stick properly. Even if I've been a bit sloppy with the oil, 
a simple water rinse works just fine to get rid of it - but unless I've been 
grinding sloppy-wet enough to throw water everywhere, a little bit of glass 
dust always sticks to the ground edge, and short of using an "ultrasonic" 
jewelry cleaner (overkill even for me!), taking a towel to the edges is the 
only way I know to make sure they're not dusty.

>I USE ONLY Venture as I think it is stickier than edco (have not used edco
>in a decade or more).

I've only used the black back Edco. I don't like it because it tends to be 
"icky-sticky" - the black stickum sometimes oozes out from under the foil and 
gunks things up when you solder it. I like 1-mil Venture. Wish they made a 
1-mil black back too!

>Be brave, be daring, be the first on your block,fly in face of
>tradition........drain the oil from your cutter(s) cut dry and see if the
>world ends!!!!!

I don't know about anyone else, but I get far better scores and cleaner 
breaks when I use oil. Without it I get a lot more "knife edges" and ragged 
breaks and end up doing a lot more grozing and recutting. Besides, the oil 
traps the micro-fine glass dust that's inevitably generated by scoring. Not 
that it's much, but why have any more of that floating around in the air?

As far as filling up with oil is concerned, oil-filled cutters always seem to 
leak. I keep a small jar with a sponge soaked in oil, and dip my cutter in 
that.

Just my 2 brass farthings' worth........


Sparks
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From owner-glass Thu Jan 27 09:06:48 2000
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From: "Kaye Sodt" <kaye@GSA-ORSP.CROWN.NWU.EDU>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: non-stick foil observation
Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2000 10:28:03 CST 6CDT
Message-ID: <200001271629.KAA13772@pineyard.acns.nwu.edu>
Organization: GSA-ORSP
Precedence: bulk

I agree, Howard.  I was surprised that non-sticking foil was a problem for 
some folks.  I've never been particularly fastidious about washing 
my glass before foiling and haven't experienced any trouble with the 
foil.  If the glass needed grinding, it's pretty wet and I just dry it with 
a cloth or paper towel (I'm more likely to ruin shirts with marking 
pens or patina). 

I'm going to try cutting dry.  I don't get much oil on the surface of 
my glass, though, and I just towel that off, too.  I think good 
burnishing is essential and its importance is often overlooked.

Kaye
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From owner-glass Thu Jan 27 09:28:21 2000
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From owner-glass Thu Jan 27 11:03:06 2000
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X-Path: ltdarkpoet.junglelink.co.uk!charliehodge
From: "charlie hodge" <charliehodge@ltdarkpoet.junglelink.co.uk>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: re lead and foil (sherri)
Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2000 18:27:47 -0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

well that's the business I suppose, a big list of do's and don'ts some of
which have no reason behind them. All the student I have taught over the
past few years have liked the idea of edge beading but in practise, like to
surround there work with came. I recently made a piece from a book pattern.
On completion I found a corner piece was not going to last long, it was only
attached on one edge, after a couple of cleans I feared it loosen. So a
nicely mitred "U" channel surround meant it was going to last a very long
time. So if you find a way of doing something that suits you then keep with
it.
all the best
Charlie  (always looking for ways to make life easier)
"Its just a ride"


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From owner-glass Thu Jan 27 12:03:56 2000
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X-Path: ilnk.com!andor
From: "Linda Jo Letscher" <andor@ilnk.com>
To: "Kaye Sodt" <kaye@GSA-ORSP.CROWN.NWU.EDU>,
Subject: Re: non-stick foil observation
Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2000 13:50:44 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hi Kaye,

I have never had the problem, but I am so picky about my glass being clean
and such before I start foiling.  I think Howard covered everthing really
well.  And with all those little teeny tiny pieces he puts in his lamps he
knows.  I quit with the oil a while back, and after I am done cutting then I
clean my cutter & oil.  Years ago when I took my beginner lessons, it was
implied that there should be oil on the cut and for years I thought the oil
aided in the cutting or breaking of the glass.  So live and learn.  I think
I am a burnish a holic and really do mine far more than some, one gal I
watched that did one pass and that was it.  If I do a corner and don't like
how it goes, I take it off and do it again.  Oh yea, don't happen to like
the sliver backed foil but do use it when I need to.

Linda Jo

-----Original Message-----
From: Kaye Sodt <kaye@GSA-ORSP.CROWN.NWU.EDU>
To: glass@bungi.com <glass@bungi.com>
Date: Thursday, January 27, 2000 12:18 PM
Subject: non-stick foil observation


>I agree, Howard.  I was surprised that non-sticking foil was a problem for
>some folks.  I've never been particularly fastidious about washing
>my glass before foiling and haven't experienced any trouble with the
>foil.  If the glass needed grinding, it's pretty wet and I just dry it with
>a cloth or paper towel (I'm more likely to ruin shirts with marking
>pens or patina).
>
>I'm going to try cutting dry.  I don't get much oil on the surface of
>my glass, though, and I just towel that off, too.  I think good
>burnishing is essential and its importance is often overlooked.
>
>Kaye
>----
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>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


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From owner-glass Thu Jan 27 15:37:46 2000
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X-Path: ix.netcom.com!gunnx4
From: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@ix.netcom.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Lead and foil
Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2000 15:56:19 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Just for the record, I never have said that lead is easier than foil.

Some of us are pretty exacting with copperfoil *as well* as with lead,
and dont want our panel to grow or shrink regardless of the method of
construction.

The question I have asked that has never been answered, is 

What is it that is so precise in lead, that isnt in copperfoil?   Just
your measurements?  

As was said, with suncatchers it doesnt matter, but there are some that
only do copperfoil panels, that are to be installed, 
I'd say measurements are as important to them as to anyone.
It *has* to fit the intended space.  Not all installations are 
exposed to weather.

Im not trying to argue with anyone.  Seems there are people that only do
lead, and people that only do copperfoil, and for some reason seem to
think the people that do the other are less talented or something.

I enjoy both, and take both methods seriously.  Lead is still very new
to me, but dont find it *harder* so much as just different. It is
becoming less different every day though, since at work we do 99.9%
lead.  The boss subs out copperfoil because it takes too long to foil.

BTW...Ive heard people talk abouth their hands becoming fatiqued from
cutting.  I'd never experienced it.  OH MAN...
Do I ever know what it is like now.  My hands and arms have been falling
asleep, they are so fatiqued.  It's a really strange sensation.  I have
been doing all the cutting the last few days, while someone else has
been building.  Im ready to 
switch again.  

The difference is...in my little studio, I complete one thing before
going on to the next...so it isnt days worth of cutting at a time.

At work...it is heavy production.  We are each doing what we are each
best/fastest at.  Im cutting, one is building, and the other is plotting
out the next 8'x4' panel.

Im tired! ;o)

Suzanne, in snowy Tulsa!
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From owner-glass Thu Jan 27 22:56:22 2000
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From: les001@myrealbox.com
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Subject: What We Know About You
Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2000 15:25:36 -0600
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From owner-glass Fri Jan 28 01:03:19 2000
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	for rglass-42; Fri, 28 Jan 2000 00:58:33 -0800 (PST)
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Monica <cricket@rea-alp.com>
Subject: cementing of panels (Was:Lead & Foil)
Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2000 08:52:35 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk

Monica,
        I see you have had replies about burnishing foil and patting
lumps of solder onto the edges of pieces, so my reply is about cementing
of panels
        The cement used in finishing leaded panels is a linseed oil
putty, with colour.  It is made to a brushable thickness, sometimes said
to be like thick syrup (although I like mine a bit thicker).  This is
brushed under the leaves of the came, and the whole panel cleaned with
whiting (calcium carbonate/chalk).  As the linseed oil oxidises, it
hardens, providing a great deal of stiffness to a panel.
        Some will say this is not necessary around the edge of a copper
foiled piece, but without it, the came will pull away by stretching.
The amount of stiffness provided by cement is illustrated by a Japanese
character (origin) which I made in leaded glass, cemented in the normal
way.  I left it to cure for a month before I hung it and it is still
hanging 3 years later.
        If you are in more of a hurry, then use a stiffer metal, zinc or
brass.

Steve

In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, Monica <cricket@rea-alp.com> writes
>I have done only foiled stained glass pieces. I have never been able to
>figure out how to get the solder bead to stay on the edge even when turning
>down my soldering iron. Lately I have had a lot of trouble with the foil
>letting loose along the edge while trying to solder. In those cases I
>usually run lead around the outside. I know nothing about working with lead
>but have read in some of the posts that you are supposed to used some kind
>of cement to set the pieces. Is this also true when only using it around the
>edge of a piece?
>Thank you for any input.
>Monica
>
>----
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-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Fri Jan 28 01:18:41 2000
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Reinforcement of tall, narrow panels (was:lead vs foil)
Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2000 08:44:04 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk

Suzann,
        When the panels are not installed, they are week along their
length.  When installed the edges are supported by the mouldings or
other fittings of the door, providing the vertical "strength".  The
horizontal reinforcement then prevents any bowing of the glass by the
vibrations of the door closing.

Steve

In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@ix.netcom.com>
writes
>
>I just built some doors at work.  I reinforced it as directed by the
>studio owner.  We reinforced it horizontally.  They are tall narrow
>panels.  Seems to me it will sag by bending over. Why didnt we reinforce
>in both directions?

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Fri Jan 28 01:27:56 2000
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X-Path: bellsouth.net!paul2000
From: paul2000@bellsouth.net
To: paul2000@bellsouth.net
Subject: Prevent cell phone cancer
Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2000 00:57:00 -0800 (PST)
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From owner-glass Fri Jan 28 05:03:22 2000
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X-Path: netzero.net!kseeglass
From: "KSee" <kseeglass@netzero.net>
To: "Monica" <cricket@rea-alp.com>,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Lead & Foil
Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2000 07:46:14 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Organization: See Glass
Precedence: bulk

I always use 20 gauge tinned wire around the edge of my pieces. This adds
reinforcement plus makes a nice bead. Make sure you stretch you wire first.
KSee
See Glass
http://members.xoom.com/kseeglass/index.html
National Capital Art Glass Guild
www.ncagg.org
Meredith Stained Glass Center
www.meredithglass.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Monica <cricket@rea-alp.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2000 7:40 AM
Subject: Lead & Foil


| I have done only foiled stained glass pieces. I have never been able to
| figure out how to get the solder bead to stay on the edge even when
turning
| down my soldering iron. Lately I have had a lot of trouble with the foil
| letting loose along the edge while trying to solder. In those cases I
| usually run lead around the outside. I know nothing about working with
lead
| but have read in some of the posts that you are supposed to used some kind
| of cement to set the pieces. Is this also true when only using it around
the
| edge of a piece?
| Thank you for any input.
| Monica
|
| ----
| For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
| To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
| Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
|


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From owner-glass Fri Jan 28 07:03:21 2000
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X-Path: erols.com!deethom
From: Dee Thompson <deethom@erols.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: spam
Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2000 09:38:29 -0500
Message-ID: <3.0.32.20000128093827.008fcabc@pop.erols.com>
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how does spam get on this list on such a regular basis?  I don't get it on
any other list I am on, only this one.
Dee
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From owner-glass Fri Jan 28 10:11:07 2000
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X-Path: tir.com!jazzykid
From: "jazzykid" <jazzykid@tir.com>
To: "Bungi" <Glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Interesting glass site
Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2000 12:57:51 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hi all,

I ran across this glass site thought you might want a gander
http://www.a-archive.com/

Enjoy
Jill

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From owner-glass Fri Jan 28 15:26:58 2000
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X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Lead and foil
Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2000 17:47:36 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Message text written by Suzanne Gunn
>BTW...Ive heard people talk abouth their hands becoming fatiqued from
cutting.  I'd never experienced it.  OH MAN...
Do I ever know what it is like now.  My hands and arms have been falling
asleep, they are so fatiqued.  It's a really strange sensation.  I have
been doing all the cutting the last few days, while someone else has
been building.  Im ready to =

switch again.<

That's why in my studio, we all take turns doing different tasks.
I usually have 3 or more projects going on simultaneously, in
various stages of development, so we can choose which task
we want to do today (within reason and given deadlines of course).

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
North Wales, PA USA
----
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From owner-glass Fri Jan 28 18:14:07 2000
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From: Dee Thompson <deethom@erols.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Re: steel wheel cutters
Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2000 20:50:16 -0500
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>
>Old reason for oiling a cutter PROBABLY went out with the throw away steel
>wheel cutters....some of you may even remember them?

 I'm almost ashamed to admit I still like my old steel wheel for some glass!
Dee :-)
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From owner-glass Fri Jan 28 19:09:41 2000
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X-Path: fastlane.net!byronw
From: "Byron Wells" <byronw@fastlane.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Glass Eye
Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2000 20:47:28 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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I've been real dissapointed in Mr Williky... About  2+ years ago he said
that version 2 would be out soon with many new improvements...I've emailed
him several times and its always the same ,that its not ready yet... I
really believe he isnt doing anything with it...To bad really.. I really
like the program and use it a lot... Would be REAL nice to have a new
improved version....It would be well worth a couple hundred dollars for a
screaming new version..

Byron...
Wells Glassworks

----- Original Message -----
From: Elaine <wmagdycz@massed.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2000 3:52 PM
Subject: Re: Glass Eye


> This is the latest from the people at the Glass Eye:
>
> "I'm sorry to disappoint you, but we haven't made much progress on the
> features you want. No glass colors, no imports other than .bmp, no direct
> scanning..."
>
> My other wish was to be able to export in a format other than their own
.eye so I
> can email a pattern to someone who doesn't own the GE and they can use it
to cut
> the glass pieces. Their answer to that is to paste into Windows Paint,
however, it
> pastes as a tiny thumbnail which is not of any use to me.  I still like
the
> software though. If I had it to do over, I would buy it again. The
improvements -
> I will continue to dream. Elaine
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Sherrie Soleim" <soleim@OREGON.UOREGON.EDU>
> To: <glass@bungi.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, January 25, 2000 5:30 PM
> Subject: Re: Glass Eye
>
>
> > I'm a newbie to glass so I wanted to get all your expert opinions.
> >
> > I downloaded the demo version and like it so far.  Question to those
> > of you who have the full version ~ Is the full version worth the money?
> > I'm thinking of purchasing it but I want to be sure before I spend
> > the money.  What do you like about it and what do you dislike about it?
> >
> > Thanks in advance for your opinions.
> > Sherrie
> >
> >
> > Elaine wrote:
> >
> > > Hilary,   It's   http://www.dfly.com/
> > > I have it and really like it. Elaine
> > >
> >
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> >
>
>
>
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>

----
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From owner-glass Fri Jan 28 20:10:23 2000
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X-Path: fastlane.net!byronw
From: "Byron Wells" <byronw@fastlane.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Glass Eye
Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2000 20:47:28 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>>
Precedence: bulk

I've been real dissapointed in Mr Williky... About  2+ years ago he said
that version 2 would be out soon with many new improvements...I've emailed
him several times and its always the same ,that its not ready yet... I
really believe he isnt doing anything with it...To bad really.. I really
like the program and use it a lot... Would be REAL nice to have a new
improved version....It would be well worth a couple hundred dollars for a
screaming new version..

Byron...
Wells Glassworks

----- Original Message -----
From: Elaine <wmagdycz@massed.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2000 3:52 PM
Subject: Re: Glass Eye


> This is the latest from the people at the Glass Eye:
>
> "I'm sorry to disappoint you, but we haven't made much progress on the
> features you want. No glass colors, no imports other than .bmp, no direct
> scanning..."
>
> My other wish was to be able to export in a format other than their own
.eye so I
> can email a pattern to someone who doesn't own the GE and they can use it
to cut
> the glass pieces. Their answer to that is to paste into Windows Paint,
however, it
> pastes as a tiny thumbnail which is not of any use to me.  I still like
the
> software though. If I had it to do over, I would buy it again. The
improvements -
> I will continue to dream. Elaine
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Sherrie Soleim" <soleim@OREGON.UOREGON.EDU>
> To: <glass@bungi.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, January 25, 2000 5:30 PM
> Subject: Re: Glass Eye
>
>
> > I'm a newbie to glass so I wanted to get all your expert opinions.
> >
> > I downloaded the demo version and like it so far.  Question to those
> > of you who have the full version ~ Is the full version worth the money?
> > I'm thinking of purchasing it but I want to be sure before I spend
> > the money.  What do you like about it and what do you dislike about it?
> >
> > Thanks in advance for your opinions.
> > Sherrie
> >
> >
> > Elaine wrote:
> >
> > > Hilary,   It's   http://www.dfly.com/
> > > I have it and really like it. Elaine
> > >
> >
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> >
>
>
>
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>

----
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----
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From owner-glass Sat Jan 29 09:48:19 2000
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X-Path: bardstown.com!glassx
From: "Glass Expressions" <glassx@bardstown.com>
To: "IGGA BUNGI" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/related;
Subject: help on glass pricing
Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2000 12:57:05 +0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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------=_NextPart_000_000D_01BF6A58.584D7200
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hello we have not given classes on learning the art of stained glass and
have had alot of demand on just beginner projects for classes so we thought
we would offer a suncatcher class a couple of semi round  cuts ,straight
cuts, slightly curved cuts,  and how to use foil the wrap them with and
solder.  the project is no problem however we want to be fair with our
customers on charging for glass supplies and tools  if they purchase- how do
ya'll go about pricing for materials.  we buy wholesale and have only sold
completed projects up till now?   i would greatly appreciate any and all
imput you would be able to offer- thanks ricky glass expressions    her is
our email glassx@bardstown.com

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LHgvqwWXZzt4K17dcZSNoCMjkn2R9zcLbYZ5yyyJyFZl/DKbfIBkkA8mPRNzF04qvdFlaFtqV8x3
MnyNkjcm/DOPFwfiMn8sXYUJAAA7

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From owner-glass Sat Jan 29 11:20:19 2000
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X-Path: redsuspenders.com!reddress
From: "reddress" <reddress@redsuspenders.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: stainedglass  software
Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2000 13:38:04 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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  I downloaded test version of glasseye several weeks ago. has some nice =
features but I myself wouldn't buy it from just the test version- =
doesn't allow you enough to test as far as I'm concerned.   =20
       Has anyone tried any of the quilting(sewing) software design =
packages available?
There are quite a few out there I believe.   Our local quilt store has =
even had classes once or twice on using and comparing all the different =
ones.
  just a thought .
     joined this site about 3-4 weeks ago, and at first wondered what I =
had gotten myself into- it was different- interesting-somewhat =
laughable.  am glad its now back to the Learning Channel mode.   -Linda

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2314.1000" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Bookman Old Style" size=3D2>&nbsp; I downloaded test =
version of=20
glasseye several weeks ago. has some nice features but I myself wouldn't =
buy it=20
from just the test version- doesn't allow you enough to test as far as =
I'm=20
concerned.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Bookman Old Style" =
size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
Has anyone tried any of the quilting(sewing) software design packages=20
available?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Bookman Old Style" size=3D2>There are quite a few out =
there I=20
believe.&nbsp;&nbsp; Our local quilt store has even had classes once or =
twice on=20
using and comparing all the different ones.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Bookman Old Style" size=3D2>&nbsp; just a thought =
.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Bookman Old Style" size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
joined this=20
site about 3-4 weeks ago, and at first wondered what I had gotten myself =
into-=20
it was different- interesting-somewhat laughable.&nbsp; am glad its now =
back to=20
the Learning Channel mode.&nbsp;&nbsp; -Linda</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-glass Sat Jan 29 16:33:36 2000
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	for rglass-42; Sat, 29 Jan 2000 16:10:04 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #61 built 2000-Jan-28)
X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Glass Expressions <glassx@bardstown.com>
Subject: Re: help on glass pricing
Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2000 23:22:13 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk

Ricky,
        Why the image?  don't send such in an e-mail, please.

        Anyway, to answer the question of how much to charge for
materials and tools.  Look at retail catalogues and decide if those are
fair prices.  If so, that is what the student will have to pay
elsewhere.  You can discount a little if you want.

Steve


In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, Glass Expressions <glassx@bardstown.com>
writes
>This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
>
>------=_NextPart_000_000D_01BF6A58.584D7200
>Content-Type: text/plain;
>       charset="iso-8859-1"
>Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
>
>hello we have not given classes on learning the art of stained glass and
>have had alot of demand on just beginner projects for classes so we thought
>we would offer a suncatcher class a couple of semi round  cuts ,straight
>cuts, slightly curved cuts,  and how to use foil the wrap them with and
>solder.  the project is no problem however we want to be fair with our
>customers on charging for glass supplies and tools  if they purchase- how do
>ya'll go about pricing for materials.  we buy wholesale and have only sold
>completed projects up till now?   i would greatly appreciate any and all
>imput you would be able to offer- thanks ricky glass expressions    her is
>our email glassx@bardstown.com
>
>------=_NextPart_000_000D_01BF6A58.584D7200
>Content-Type: image/gif
>Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64
>Content-ID: <000601bf6a15$4a11c800$0100007f@oemcomputer>
PS please don't send this any more.
S
-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Sat Jan 29 19:49:23 2000
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X-Path: home.net!esavad
From: "Mike Savad" <esavad@home.net>
To: "jazzykid" <jazzykid@tir.com>,
Subject: RE: Interesting glass site
Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2000 21:51:17 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

it's an intresing site, some cool work, just wish the pictures were a little
clearer.


---Mike Savad


Mike's Stained Glass - Tips Tricks Photos
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
9-12-99 - New Pages Added: 3 new Tips sections - Reader's Tips, Making your
own Glass Filigree, and Cutting Different types of glass. There are also a
lot of new Sky City pictures.


> -----Original Message-----
> From: jazzykid [mailto:jazzykid@tir.com]
> Sent: Friday, January 28, 2000 12:58 PM
> To: Bungi
> Subject: Interesting glass site
>
>
> Hi all,
>
> I ran across this glass site thought you might want a gander
> http://www.a-archive.com/
>
> Enjoy
> Jill
>
> ----
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>


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From owner-glass Sat Jan 29 20:53:50 2000
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X-Path: springnet1.com!jazz-sni
From: Don Udey <jazz-sni@springnet1.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: wire art
Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2000 22:36:05 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hi All!

I need your help...Not a glass question...My daughter gave me a wire bug
for christmas.  It's  made of tinned wire and gem stones holding a
cigarette lighter. The body is made up of  2 separate stones wrapped in
came then soldered together. The eyes are 2 separate stones camed and
soldered to the body, feelers, 4 legs with drops of solder for feet. It
has a bill like a duck and a cigarette hanging out of its mouth.(cracks
me up just looking at it).  She lives in Madison Wisconsin...said she
found it in a jewelry store, I think on State Street...and WE know what
its like on State St!  Anything goes!  I dearly love it. The owner of
the store said she makes her own "creatures".  This was the creature I
picked out.  The store also had a wire band-dancers-spiders etc.  Do any
of you know where I might find a book or web site that carries  such
items?   Thanks

Linda

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From owner-glass Sat Jan 29 23:39:02 2000
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	for rglass-42; Sat, 29 Jan 2000 23:28:43 -0800 (PST)
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X-Path: netbridge.net!balloch
From: Shirley Balloch <balloch@netbridge.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Mike Savad
Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2000 23:00:41 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Organization: Maiden Concepts
Precedence: bulk

Hi Mike,
Is your site still at http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
I would like to add it to my ebay personal page as one of my favorite
sites on the web.  Would that be alright?
Shirley B
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From owner-glass Sun Jan 30 04:42:21 2000
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X-Path: esatclear.ie!glassman
From: Tony Dutcher <glassman@esatclear.ie>
To: glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Help with U.V. gluing
Date: Sun, 30 Jan 2000 11:00:51 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

    I have been haveing a problem gluing a few pieces of glass. The
pieces are about 5x7 inches in size and 1.5 mils thick. Its red on clear
flashed glass that has been etched to remove some of the red and then
painted. I was able to glue some of the thicker pieces with Hexol, but I
couldn't get it to take on all of them. I would like to avoid using
silcone because of the surface area of the glass, I glued some of them
with a U.V. glue, some german brand. So I was wondering if I could get a
few tips on using U.V. glue. I know that on flashed glass, the colored
side should be facing down, away from the lamp. but how long do you
leave the glass under the lamp?  If I wait until I can feel the glue
take on the glass I have a problem taking the execess glue off the
painted side of the glass. Any hints?

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From owner-glass Sun Jan 30 14:38:55 2000
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X-Path: netbridge.net!balloch
From: Shirley Balloch <balloch@netbridge.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: What are lampworking beads?
Date: Sun, 30 Jan 2000 14:17:38 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Organization: Maiden Concepts
Precedence: bulk

HI gang,
I am still at ebay.  I found this list of auctions
http://cgi6.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewListedItems&userid=binki_k
She has serveral lampworking beads there.  Angel, butterfly(my
favorite), dragons, a siamese cat fairy(my second favorite),
hummingbirds, a dolphin, and more.
Are these things made the way you see the guys at the fair make glass
objects?  Ya know with a glass rod and open flame of some sort?
Thanks,
Shirley B
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From owner-glass Sun Jan 30 20:03:20 2000
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X-Path: aol.com!MATRONA
From: MATRONA@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: I've enjoyed my stay
Date: Sun, 30 Jan 2000 22:39:18 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

 But please remove me from the list.  i find I can no loger afford the time 
my mail is taking me.  I have had fun, for the short time I've been here.  
May I check back in some time?
Anne
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From owner-glass Sun Jan 30 22:57:41 2000
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X-Path: inform.dk!cootaipuu46
From: cootaipuu46@inform.dk (sandra)
To: cootaipuu46@inform.dk
Subject: Private Offshore Club pays you by the Minute...
Summary: Authenticated sender is <cootaipuu46@inform.dk>
Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2000 00:43:45 -0700
Message-ID: <200001313153YAA55813@juhygth7yj.cfc.gob.mx>
Precedence: bulk


Hello,  

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57732122224404668153
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From owner-glass Mon Jan 31 00:32:09 2000
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X-Path: slonet.org!edupjohn
From: "Peggy W. Johnsen" <edupjohn@slonet.org>
To: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@ix.netcom.com>
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: lead vs foil
Date: Sun, 30 Jan 2000 22:35:10 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<388F7BAC.59A6EC91@ix.netcom.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Hi Suzanne:  After I re-read what I said, I will have to confess that it
was not what I meant when I said I found lead came to be more challenging.
I should have metnioned that I prefer lead came projects over copper foil.
Most of the lead came work I do uses 5/32 lead came...that requires closer
fitting of the glass which trickles down to include cutting, etc.  I find
the copper foil work more forgiving in terms of exactness.  Both require
precision but to varying degrees.  Of course, if one uses larger h-came,
cutting, fitting, and grinding all become less precise.  

When I say I find lead came to be more challenging, I really meant it in
terms of preference and construction challenges.  I think I am digging
myself in further.  I enjoy copper foil primarily because I enjoy
soldering.  Heck, I just enjoy working with both and it depends on what I
am doing that I select lead or copper foil.  Peggy

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From owner-glass Mon Jan 31 00:32:22 2000
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X-Path: terra.com.pe!ivargas
From: "Ivette Vargas Icochea" <ivargas@terra.com.pe>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: Ginders?
Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2000 03:16:03 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Organization: Cirujano Dentista
Precedence: bulk

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_002A_01BF6B99.8181D0C0
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Hello=20
My name is Ivette Vargas, I'm Dentistand and I live in Lima, Peru.  =20
I have a question  ... =20
I need to buy a grinder, but I don=B4t know what model should I buy, can =
you tell me what mark and what model can I buy?  =20
I have listened that the Glastar grinder (Super Star II) is very good, =
is this correct? =20
I,m sorry for my English, is not very good =20
I am semi-professional in stained glass.

** EMAIL REVISADO POR THE HACKER ANTIVIRUS **
_____________________________________________

VITRALES STAINED GLASS CLUB
http://clubs.yahoo.com/clubs/vitralesstainedglass
=20

------=_NextPart_000_002A_01BF6B99.8181D0C0
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
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<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
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<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2314.1000" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>Hello&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>My name is Ivette Vargas, I'm Dentistand and I live in Lima,=20
Peru.&nbsp;&nbsp; <BR>I have a question&nbsp;&nbsp;...&nbsp; <BR>I need =
to buy a=20
grinder, but I don=B4t know what model should I buy, can you tell me =
what mark and=20
what model can I buy?&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>I have&nbsp;listened that the Glastar grinder (Super Star II) =
is&nbsp;very=20
good, is this correct?&nbsp; <BR>I,m sorry&nbsp;for my English, is not =
very=20
good&nbsp; <BR>I am semi-professional in stained glass.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>** EMAIL REVISADO POR THE HACKER ANTIVIRUS=20
**<BR>_____________________________________________</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>VITRALES STAINED GLASS CLUB<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://clubs.yahoo.com/clubs/vitralesstainedglass">http://clubs.y=
ahoo.com/clubs/vitralesstainedglass</A><BR>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-glass Mon Jan 31 05:09:56 2000
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To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Gatewayed mail message
Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2000 05:30:39 -0800
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>From owner-glass@daver.bungi.com  Wed Jan 19 13:25:31 2000
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From: "Mary" <embee@mediaone.net>
To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: NG
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 14:36:37 -0500
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This last brouhaha over a scripture being used in a signature was my swan
song, so to speak.
When I constantly face horrible  insults such as trash television, filthy
songs and books and the offering in Brooklyn Museum (to name a very few) all
in the name of "Freedom of Expression", it truly offends me to hear and read
someone's  indignation by the use of Scripture.
Please unsubscribe me.
Thank you,
Mary Barry



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From owner-glass Mon Jan 31 06:14:15 2000
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From: Dee Thompson <deethom@erols.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: fusing glass and clay
Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2000 09:05:41 -0500
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has anyone done any fusing to clay and have any tips to offer?  I haven't
done clay work before and am just playing around with it right now...  i
have learneed that glass sticks to clay with out adequate release applied,
but what about over time (coe differences?)?
Dee
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From owner-glass Mon Jan 31 09:17:13 2000
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From: "Mary" <embee@mediaone.net>
To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Archive
Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2000 12:02:03 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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I am posting this to Chris Kaiser, or anyone who knows the archive site. I
forgot the URL, and I want to pass it along to a friend who is interested in
joining the list.
Thanks..
Mary

PS Please respond to me at embee@mediaone.net



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From owner-glass Mon Jan 31 11:07:33 2000
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From: "Robert & Jeanne" <keane@heesun.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Maryland members.....
Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2000 13:52:54 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Organization: Hee Sun Stained Glass, LTD.
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MabelJust wanted to invite any members in the Maryland area or nearby to our
Anniversary celebration on February 19, 2000.
For more info check out the following link

www.heesun.com/anniversary.htm


Hee Sun Stained Glass, Ltd.
324 Main Street
Reisterstown , MD 21136
410-833-3007 Custom Design Studio ,Supplies & Classes for Stained & Fused
Glass & Mosaics

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From owner-glass Mon Jan 31 11:41:29 2000
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From: "Linda Jo Letscher" <andor@ilnk.com>
To: "Robert & Jeanne" <keane@heesun.com>,
Subject: Re: Maryland members.....
Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2000 14:13:19 -0500
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Sure wish I was up your way, I would for sure come, but alass, I am in
Florida.
Hope you have a good turn out.
Linda Jo
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert & Jeanne <keane@heesun.com>
To: glass@bungi.com <glass@bungi.com>
Date: Monday, January 31, 2000 2:16 PM
Subject: Maryland members.....


>MabelJust wanted to invite any members in the Maryland area or nearby to
our
>Anniversary celebration on February 19, 2000.
>For more info check out the following link
>
>www.heesun.com/anniversary.htm
>
>
>Hee Sun Stained Glass, Ltd.
>324 Main Street
>Reisterstown , MD 21136
>410-833-3007 Custom Design Studio ,Supplies & Classes for Stained & Fused
>Glass & Mosaics
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


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From owner-glass Mon Jan 31 15:10:49 2000
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Dee Thompson <deethom@erols.com>
Subject: Re: fusing glass and clay
Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2000 20:05:36 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<3.0.32.20000131090540.008f2608@pop.erols.com>>
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Dee,
Many of the glazes used in ceramics, are glass based.  This is one of
the reasons the glaze becomes cracked over time, as the differences in
expansion are enough to break the glaze or the ceramic.  One advantage
is the glaze is very thin.  This would need to be considered in any
fusing.  Also I have seen a pot crushed by the glaze.  Too thick or
wrong expansion rate?
        a lot of testing will be required.  Good luck.
Steve

In message <3.0.32.20000131090540.008f2608@pop.erols.com>, Dee Thompson
<deethom@erols.com> writes
>has anyone done any fusing to clay and have any tips to offer?  I haven't
>done clay work before and am just playing around with it right now...  i
>have learneed that glass sticks to clay with out adequate release applied,
>but what about over time (coe differences?)?
>Dee
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Mon Jan 31 15:19:39 2000
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From: "Mary" <embee@mediaone.net>
To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Archive question again
Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2000 13:54:50 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Hi all..

Thanks for the responses I received thus far. What I am looking for is the
archive that I worked on with Chris Kaiser and Jim, which has information
listed by subject matter. The site on the Bungi page has archives listed by
digest numbers.
Does anyone have the URL for Chris and Jim's archives?
Thanks again..
Mary


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From owner-glass Tue Feb  1 07:36:34 2000
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X-Path: arrakis.es!kiram
From: "Kira Mason" <kiram@arrakis.es>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: RE: fusing glass and clay
Date: Tue, 1 Feb 2000 11:04:12 +0100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Hi Dee,
When I took my first classes in sg about 4 years ago it was at a place that
also did clay work.  One day I was hanging out with the owner of the shop
and we were talking about what to do with "left-over" glass.  She showed me
some pieces that she had done years before when she had time to play.  One
that stayed in my mind was a vase.  She had put glass "chips" on the vase
when the enamel was painted on and still wet (sorry if it comes out not too
clear, am translating from Spanish to English) letting them stick.  Then she
fired it.  The effect was really cool.
Kira
-----Mensaje original-----
De: Dee Thompson <deethom@erols.com>
Para: glass@bungi.com <glass@bungi.com>
Fecha: lunes 31 de enero de 2000 15:15
Asunto: fusing glass and clay


>has anyone done any fusing to clay and have any tips to offer?  I haven't
>done clay work before and am just playing around with it right now...  i
>have learneed that glass sticks to clay with out adequate release applied,
>but what about over time (coe differences?)?
>Dee
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


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From owner-glass Tue Feb  1 07:46:41 2000
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From: Witchdoc3@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Re: fusing glass and clay
Date: Tue, 1 Feb 2000 09:51:24 EST
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In a message dated 1/31/00 6:12:52 PM, s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk 
writes:

>[...] the differences in
>expansion are enough to break the glaze [...]

Which of course is the principle behind "crackle" glazes. A guy I knew in 
college used to play around with those a lot, messing with the glaze formula 
and setting up the firing and cooling conditions so he'd get more or less 
crackles, then staining the fired pot to bring them out.

Glazes can be pretty wild things. My favorite was one called "o-mae-san," 
which is white and "curdles" when fired in a reducing (oxygen-poor) 
atmosphere to give a rubbly "cottage-cheese" surface that shows the 
underglaze between the "curds" - but only if it's on a near-vertical surface. 
On a horizontal surface it doesn't separate, just gets sort of vaguely 
"globby."

>[...] Also I have seen a pot crushed by the glaze.  Too thick or
>wrong expansion rate?

I've never heard of such a thing happening. My guess is, mainly the former. 
Under what conditions did it happen? Glaze too thick combined with too-rapid 
cooling? Wrong firing conditions (fired too high or oxidizing vs. reducing 
atmosphere, either of which which would change the chemical composition of 
the glaze and therefore its thermal-expansion behavior as well)? Just a 
couple of wild-ass guesses.


Sparks
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From owner-glass Tue Feb  1 08:03:13 2000
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From: "Mary" <embee@mediaone.net>
To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Archives
Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 07:43:38 -0500
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Thanks to all who responded. I have found out that the archives are not on
the web yet.
Again, my thanks!
Mary



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From owner-glass Tue Feb  1 08:36:07 2000
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From: "Ivette Vargas Icochea" <ivargas@terra.com.pe>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: Thanks
Date: Tue, 1 Feb 2000 11:23:17 -0500
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Hi
Thank you to all for their suggestions =20
I will buy the Super Star II of Glastar =20

Greetings from Peru =20

Ivette

** EMAIL REVISADO POR THE HACKER ANTIVIRUS **
_____________________________________________

VITRALES STAINED GLASS CLUB
http://clubs.yahoo.com/clubs/vitralesstainedglass
=20

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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>Hi</DIV>
<DIV>Thank you to all for their suggestions&nbsp; <BR>I will buy the =
Super Star=20
II of Glastar&nbsp; <BR></DIV>
<DIV>Greetings from&nbsp;Peru&nbsp; <BR></DIV>
<DIV>Ivette</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>** EMAIL REVISADO POR THE HACKER ANTIVIRUS=20
**<BR>_____________________________________________</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>VITRALES STAINED GLASS CLUB<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://clubs.yahoo.com/clubs/vitralesstainedglass">http://clubs.y=
ahoo.com/clubs/vitralesstainedglass</A><BR>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-glass Tue Feb  1 09:15:01 2000
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From: "Glass Expressions" <glassx@bardstown.com>
To: "IGGA BUNGI" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/related;
Subject: cad help 
Date: Tue, 1 Feb 2000 12:38:37 +0800
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hi a while back people were talking about  differt computer programs to make
patterns.  my son has the chickenpoxs and does not want to fall way behind
in cad .  so if anyone that has info on this can help us out on where to get
the best price for this  would send us the info we would greatly appreciate
it.  and couldn't we use this to make stained glass patterns in the future?
thanks for all the help.  ricky glass expressions   glassx@bardstown.com


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From owner-glass Tue Feb  1 15:36:00 2000
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X-Path: aol.com!Bobfuses
From: Bobfuses@aol.com
To: ivargas@terra.com.pe, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: Thanks
Date: Tue, 1 Feb 2000 17:42:57 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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In a message dated 2/1/00 8:36:48 AM Pacific Standard Time, 
ivargas@terra.com.pe writes:

> Thank you to all for their suggestions
>  I will buy the Super Star II of Glister
>  Greetings from Peru

Make sure you get the right voltage/hertz for Peru. Not sure what you use 
there but Glister furnishes other electrical setups than the 120 volt 60 
hertz used in the USA.

Bob in 92026

Please note change of address from bobdu@prodigy.net to bobfuses@aol.com
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From owner-glass Tue Feb  1 16:35:30 2000
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X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: IGGA press release: StainedGlassPatterns.com
Date: Tue, 1 Feb 2000 18:17:58 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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The following is a press release from StainedGlassPatterns.com
which IGGA provides as a service to its members.  It is not an
endorsement.

Christie A. Wood-IGGA Exec.Director
-------------Forwarded Message-----------------
PRESS RELEASE: StainedGlassPatterns.com Releases Free Pattern Resizing So=
ftware

FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE

StainedGlassPatterns.com Releases Free
Pattern Resizing Software

FOR EVALUATION COPY:
Download it from http://stainedglasspatterns.com/download.php

Mississauga, Ontario, Canada -- February 7, 2000 --
The StainedGlassPatterns.com pattern sharing site is now
providing a free program, the Rapid Resizer, enabling users
to easily print precisely resized copies of any of the
patterns there.

StainedGlassPatterns.com is the first web-site to
facilitate pattern sharing by stained glass artisans
throughout the world. "This will change the way every
computer user finds and resizes patterns -- in the future
you could have easy access to tens of thousands of free
patterns," says Patrick Roberts, owner of StainedGlassPatterns.com.
Patterns can be contributed through e-mail or directly
from the program. The popularity of each pattern is recorded
and displayed.

For a fee a user can also resize patterns from any
other source, including a scanner.

The pattern resizing software provided by StainedGlassPatterns.com
is a modified version of one of a pair programs developed
by Patrick Roberts. The other of the two, the Pattern Wizard,
facilitates designing patterns. Both programs are available
at http://SGDesigns.com

FOR FURTHER INFORMATION CONTACT: Patrick Roberts
E-mail: patrick@stainedglasspatterns.com
http://StainedGlassPatterns.com
Tel: 1-905-823-4469
Fax: 1-905-823-5880=
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From owner-glass Tue Feb  1 17:11:23 2000
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X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: IGGA Press Release: R. Bruce Laughlin classes
Date: Tue, 1 Feb 2000 18:17:47 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

The following information is provided by the International
Guild of Glass Artists (IGGA) as a service to our members.
It is informational only, and is not an endorsement.

Christie A. Wood-IGGA Exec.Director
------------------------------------------------------
R. Bruch Laughlin - Fused/Leaded Glass
310 Hackmatack Street, Manchester, CT 06040
Studio phone: 860-646-0898

The following classes/workshops are being offered at the
R. Bruce Laughlin studio.  A graphic designer, Bruce Laughlin
has been working in kiln fired glass for the past 25 years.  He
has taught at the Brookfield Craft Center, Guilford Handcraft Center,
Wesleyan Potters, Inc., Horizons, the NE Craft Program, Touchstone
Center for Crafts, Manchester Community Tech. College, and has
been a guest instructor for the League of NH Craftsmen.  He
teaches at CT State University and has taught in his own studio
for the past 15 years.

"Silkscreen Techniques on Glass"
workshop: 10am - 5pm  Fri., Sat., Sun.  April 7-9
repeat workshop: 10am - 5pm  Frid., Sat., Sun.  May 12-14
registration fee: $195, plus $50 lab fee

A one weekend workshop in silkscreen techniques fired on
glass.  Limited to 6 pre-registered students.  The workshop will
include construction and preparation of the screen, including
photo silkscreen, production of a finished piece and firing,
demonstrations and experimental techniques.  This same
workshop is also offered May 12-14.

"Advanced Fusing Workshop" * NEW *
workshop: 9am - 5:30pm Sat & Sun  April 29-30
registration fee: $195, plus $50 lab fee

For the experienced fuser.  This is a new 2 day workshop to
continue exploring new products and techniques in the fusing
and slumping of glass, including deep slumped shapes.  Also
includes introduction to new colorants that have recently become
available.

"Fused Glass Workshop"
workshop: 9am - 5:30pm  Sat & Sun  May 6 & 7
registration fee: $185, plus $50 lab fee

A one weekend workshop in fused glass to a limited number (6)
of pre-registered students.  This workshop includes glass
slumping, fusing and coloring, the firing capabilities of kilns and
mold making.

Registration is limited/first come basis on payment in full or
$50 deposit.  Refunds: tuition refunds will be made only in the
event that a student cancels 2 weeks prior to class, or that
the class is cancelled.  Accommodations: Reasonable
accommodations in the area - please request information.
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From owner-glass Wed Feb  2 02:06:03 2000
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X-Path: arrakis.es!kiram
From: "Kira Mason" <kiram@arrakis.es>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: RE: fusing glass and clay
Date: Wed, 2 Feb 2000 10:38:33 +0100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hi Ali,
Yes, I meant glaze.  That is the bad thing about learning things in another
language and then talking about them in another.  You translate them
literally and it just doesn't come out right!  I really couldn't tell you at
what temp. they were fired at.  It was quite some time ago.  I would imagine
though that they would have been fired at the temp. necessary for the
individual glaze.  Yes they were put on individually while the glaze was
wet.  Kinda time consumming but so is glass.  Another thing that she showed
me was a plate that had been fired with a glaze then sprinkled with glass
chips (I mean the size of these letters some smaller or bigger-you get what
I mean?) in the middle.  The effect was really cool.  The glass had melted
and combined with the glaze.  Then another piece she showed me was a vase
that had been previously glazed and then pieces set on the top part of the
"container" of the vase where there was a small ledge.  Then fired lower
than normal again, I don't know at what temp. just lower than normal.  Maybe
try half the temp.  Again, the effect was really cool.  Some of the glass
had melted completely and ran down the vase and some of it had just slightly
deformed.

An idea, I don't know if they or you do this in the states.  But 2 years ago
I was doing a ceramics class for a year.  The teacher was really big on not
buying pre-made glazes and teaching us to make our own and experiment.  What
we did was to take 10x10cm (I think that is 4x4") unglazed but fired premade
tiles.  Here you can get them anywere.  We would then do 1x1" samples or
smaller all over the tiles then fire them and you can get a pretty good idea
how something is going to come out or what you want to continue playing with
more.
Hope this helps.
Kira
-----Mensaje original-----
De: Ali Casado <ACASADO@webtv.net>
Para: Kira Mason <kiram@arrakis.es>
Fecha: martes 1 de febrero de 2000 22:20
Asunto: RE: fusing glass and clay


Hi Kira,
You mentioned that glass chips were placed on the painted on "Enamel"
while it was still wet.  Do you mean painted on "Glaze"????
I do ceramics and we Glaze the entire piece to make it either Glossy
(Shiney) or Matt (Flat or without Shine).  Is that what you're speaking
of when you say Enamel???  At what temperature did the owner of the shop
fire the vase with the glass, in the kiln???

Ali :=)



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From owner-glass Wed Feb  2 15:53:01 2000
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X-Path: ltdarkpoet.junglelink.co.uk!charliehodge
From: "charlie hodge" <charliehodge@ltdarkpoet.junglelink.co.uk>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: tartan
Date: Wed, 2 Feb 2000 23:43:06 -0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

can anyone help with a tartan pattern. any suggestions will be good.

all the best  Charlie
"Its just a ride"


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From owner-glass Wed Feb  2 16:23:44 2000
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X-Path: juno.com!suzan.e.b1
From: suzan e becker <suzan.e.b1@juno.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: ceramic kiln
Date: Wed, 2 Feb 2000 15:38:22 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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While we are on the subject of ceramics and glass - our stained glass
club has been offered the use of a large ceramic kiln,  hooked up and
ready to go.  Can it be used for glass fusing?  
Would like to hear from anyone who has had experience fusing in a ceramic
kiln.  Thanks.
________________________________________________________________
YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET!
Juno now offers FREE Internet Access!
Try it today - there's no risk!  For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
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From owner-glass Wed Feb  2 17:28:03 2000
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--part1_84.ea81f7.25ca2f7e_boundary
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Bob in 92026

Please note change of address from bobdu@prodigy.net to bobfuses@aol.com

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From: Bobfuses@aol.com
Full-name: Bobfuses
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Date: Wed, 2 Feb 2000 20:03:40 EST
Subject: Re: ceramic kiln
To: suzan.e.b1@juno.com
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Sure you can use a ceramic kiln for fusing glass. It is best to only fire one 
shelf of glass at a time and with large projects go a bit slower than in a 
true glass kiln. If the ceramic kiln does not have a pyrometer it will be 
hard to judge the temperature but a pyrometer can be back fitted.

Bob in 92026

Please note change of address from bobdu@prodigy.net to bobfuses@aol.com

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From owner-glass Thu Feb  3 14:03:47 2000
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X-Path: pacifier.com!ptap
From: Pamela Burns-Tappan <ptap@pacifier.com>
To: "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Looking For Jay Smith
Date: Thu, 03 Feb 2000 13:35:58 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Organization: MM Ltd.
Precedence: bulk

Last known area of this artist was Massachusetts. Contact me if you know
where he may be now.

Thanks,

Pam

--

Ms. Pamela Burns-Tappan
Executive Director
The Stained Glass Artists
http://www.stainedglassartists.com
A Division of: Moswood Mountain Ltd.
http://www.moswoodmountainltd.com


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X-Path: voicenet.com!hilary
From: Hilary <hilary@voicenet.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: NG: Thanks for alumni site
Date: Thu, 03 Feb 2000 12:14:19 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

To whoever the angel was that posted the site to classmates.com:

Thank you Thank you Thank you Thank you Thank you Thank you

Believe it or not, I found a really good long lost friend and we finally
got in touch with each other TODAY! I am beside myself with glee!!!

Thank you Thank you Thank you Thank you Thank you Thank you 

Now, what kind of glass piece can I make for her to celebrate our
finding each other?????!!!!

Hilary BSHS Class of '65!
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From owner-glass Thu Feb  3 14:31:33 2000
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X-Path: pacifier.com!ptap
From: Pamela Burns-Tappan <ptap@pacifier.com>
To: "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Artist Referral-Morganton North Carolina
Date: Thu, 03 Feb 2000 13:40:49 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Organization: MM Ltd.
Precedence: bulk

"We are a small Episcopal church in Western North Carolina.  We are
looking for an
artist to create a small stained glass piece to fit above the alter-
Ideas related to our
community - Lake - Mountains - Jesus walking on water."

Please email Pam within 48 hours if you are interested in this job.

Thanks,

Pam





--

Ms. Pamela Burns-Tappan
Executive Director
The Stained Glass Artists
http://www.stainedglassartists.com
A Division of: Moswood Mountain Ltd.
http://www.moswoodmountainltd.com


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From owner-glass Thu Feb  3 14:32:44 2000
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X-Path: falcon.cc.ukans.edu!elgarber
From: eg <elgarber@falcon.cc.ukans.edu>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: light box
Date: Thu, 03 Feb 2000 16:15:16 -0600
Message-ID: <200002032215.QAA0000031187@falcon.cc.ukans.edu>
Precedence: bulk

Does anyone have written plans for a light box?  Some time back someone
posted some but I don't have them anymore.  Thanks. Ellen
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X-Path: pacifier.com!ptap
From: Pamela Burns-Tappan <ptap@pacifier.com>
To: "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Looking for artist David Oppenheimer
Date: Thu, 03 Feb 2000 13:42:29 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Organization: MM Ltd.
Precedence: bulk

He is an artist out of Georgia that specializes in fish. Give me a
holler if you know of his whereabouts :)

Thanks,

Pam



--

Ms. Pamela Burns-Tappan
Executive Director
The Stained Glass Artists
http://www.stainedglassartists.com
A Division of: Moswood Mountain Ltd.
http://www.moswoodmountainltd.com


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From owner-glass Thu Feb  3 17:39:40 2000
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X-Path: ghostman.com!candy
From: "Candy" <candy@ghostman.com>
To: "eg" <elgarber@falcon.cc.ukans.edu>, "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: light box
Date: Thu, 03 Feb 00 18:11:32 
Message-ID: <200002040111.SAA24608@mantis.privatei.com>
Precedence: bulk

Ellen,

All I did was cut a square out of my worktable, and route the edges. Then I bought 
some plate glass and layed it on the routed edge. I put two fluorescent lights under it , 
and voila!!
Candy


On Thu, 03 Feb 2000 16:15:16 -0600, eg wrote:

>Does anyone have written plans for a light box?  Some time back someone
>posted some but I don't have them anymore.  Thanks. Ellen

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X-Path: aol.com!Witchdoc3
From: Witchdoc3@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: NG: Thanks for alumni site
Date: Thu, 3 Feb 2000 23:19:26 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk


In a message dated 2/3/00 5:07:40 PM, hilary@voicenet.com writes:

>Now, what kind of glass piece can I make for her to celebrate our
>finding each other?????!!!!
>
>Hilary BSHS Class of '65!

A suncatcher of your school's mascot, maybe?


Sparks
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From owner-glass Thu Feb  3 21:36:51 2000
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X-Path: netbridge.net!balloch
From: Shirley Balloch <balloch@netbridge.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Check this bead out
Date: Thu, 03 Feb 2000 21:06:49 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Organization: Maiden Concepts
Precedence: bulk

http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=251425992
Shirley B
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From owner-glass Thu Feb  3 22:38:44 2000
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X-Path: ilnk.com!andor
From: "Linda Jo Letscher" <andor@ilnk.com>
To: "Shirley Balloch" <balloch@netbridge.net>,
Subject: Re: Check this bead out
Date: Fri, 4 Feb 2000 00:57:43 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Really nice Shirley.
Linda Jo

-----Original Message-----
From: Shirley Balloch <balloch@netbridge.net>
To: glass@bungi.com <glass@bungi.com>
Date: Friday, February 04, 2000 12:45 AM
Subject: Check this bead out


>http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=251425992
>Shirley B
>----
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>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


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From owner-glass Fri Feb  4 02:37:05 2000
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X-Path: terra.com.pe!ivargas
From: "Ivette Vargas Icochea" <ivargas@terra.com.pe>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Stained Glass Mirrors
Date: Fri, 4 Feb 2000 01:15:55 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Organization: Cirujano Dentista
Precedence: bulk

Hi!

Can somebody help me?
I have heard and read that it is necessary to use a sealant to make stained
glass mirrors, could somebody tell me which is the correct technique  to
work them correctly?  I am learning how to work with them and I would like
to make it with a good technique.

Thank you
Greetings from Lima, Peru

Ivette

** EMAIL REVISADO POR THE HACKER ANTIVIRUS **
_____________________________________________

VITRALES STAINED GLASS CLUB
http://clubs.yahoo.com/clubs/vitralesstainedglass



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From owner-glass Fri Feb  4 04:39:11 2000
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: suzan e becker <suzan.e.b1@juno.com>
Subject: Re: ceramic kiln
Date: Fri, 4 Feb 2000 10:12:12 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk

Yes, ceramic kilns can be used for glass painting, fusing and slumping.
Also casting.
They are great for annealing, as they loose heat slowly in the critical
temperature range.
You often have to crash cool ceramic kilns to drop the temperature fast
enough to avoid devitrification.

Steve

In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, suzan e becker <suzan.e.b1@juno.com>
writes
>While we are on the subject of ceramics and glass - our stained glass
>club has been offered the use of a large ceramic kiln,  hooked up and
>ready to go.  Can it be used for glass fusing?  
>Would like to hear from anyone who has had experience fusing in a ceramic
>kiln.  Thanks.
>________________________________________________________________
>YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET!
>Juno now offers FREE Internet Access!
>Try it today - there's no risk!  For your FREE software, visit:
>http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
>----
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-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Fri Feb  4 07:11:58 2000
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X-Path: falcon.cc.ukans.edu!elgarber
From: eg <elgarber@falcon.cc.ukans.edu>
To: Pamela Burns-Tappan <ptap@pacifier.com>,
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Looking for artist David Oppenheimer
Date: Fri, 04 Feb 2000 07:51:08 -0600
Message-ID: <200002041351.HAA0000027561@falcon.cc.ukans.edu>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

I have been looking for a catfish pattern.  Have one?  Ellen

At 01:42 PM 02/03/2000 -0800, Pamela Burns-Tappan wrote:
>He is an artist out of Georgia that specializes in fish. Give me a
>holler if you know of his whereabouts :)
>
>Thanks,
>
>Pam
>
>
>
>--
>
>Ms. Pamela Burns-Tappan
>Executive Director
>The Stained Glass Artists
>http://www.stainedglassartists.com
>A Division of: Moswood Mountain Ltd.
>http://www.moswoodmountainltd.com
>
>
>----
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>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> 
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From owner-glass Fri Feb  4 08:20:20 2000
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X-Path: sympatico.ca!tandg.higson
From: Anthony Higson <tandg.higson@sympatico.ca>
To: Ivette Vargas Icochea <ivargas@terra.com.pe>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Stained Glass Mirrors
Date: Fri, 04 Feb 2000 10:55:37 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@l.pop50.bellglobal.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Hi Ivette
You can use clear nail polish around the cut edges of your mirror to seal the
backing before you foil.
Regards
Gillian

Ivette Vargas Icochea wrote:

> Hi!
>
> Can somebody help me?
> I have heard and read that it is necessary to use a sealant to make stained
> glass mirrors, could somebody tell me which is the correct technique  to
> work them correctly?  I am learning how to work with them and I would like
> to make it with a good technique.
>
> Thank you
> Greetings from Lima, Peru
>
> Ivette
>
> ** EMAIL REVISADO POR THE HACKER ANTIVIRUS **
> _____________________________________________
>
> VITRALES STAINED GLASS CLUB
> http://clubs.yahoo.com/clubs/vitralesstainedglass
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

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From owner-glass Fri Feb  4 09:00:39 2000
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X-Path: mtcon.net!shigbee
From: "Shari" <shigbee@mtcon.net>
To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: Stained Glass Mirrors
Date: Fri, 4 Feb 2000 09:49:04 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Hello Peru! I make a lot of boxes with mirrored bottoms. I've had "black
rot" creep through my nail polish, but not through the spray "mirror
sealant" that you can buy at the stained glass stores. I will admit that it
could be my fault though--I may not have done a very thorough job of
polishing the silver edge with the nail polish.

By the way, the point of this exercise is to seal the silver backing on the
mirror to keep flux and other chemicals away from it. So use good thick
coats and maybe even go over it twice.

Shari in SLC


> > I have heard and read that it is necessary to use a sealant to make
stained
> > glass mirrors,


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From owner-glass Fri Feb  4 09:30:35 2000
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X-Path: stratus.com!Charlie_Spitzer
From: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie_Spitzer@stratus.com>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: FW: Stained Glass Mirrors
Date: Fri, 4 Feb 2000 10:20:00 -0700 
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

isn't this a pain to put on? i just spray the back and edges, before
foiling, with kryon spray paint. you can get it for about $1 on sale.

regards,
charlie
phx, az

-----Original Message-----
From: Anthony Higson [mailto:tandg.higson@sympatico.ca] 
Sent: Friday, February 04, 2000 9:56 AM
To: Ivette Vargas Icochea
Subject: Re: Stained Glass Mirrors


Hi Ivette
You can use clear nail polish around the cut edges of your mirror to seal
the
backing before you foil.
Regards
Gillian

Ivette Vargas Icochea wrote:

> Hi!
>
> Can somebody help me?
> I have heard and read that it is necessary to use a sealant to make
stained
> glass mirrors, could somebody tell me which is the correct technique  to
> work them correctly?  I am learning how to work with them and I would like
> to make it with a good technique.
>
> Thank you
> Greetings from Lima, Peru
>
> Ivette
>
> ** EMAIL REVISADO POR THE HACKER ANTIVIRUS **
> _____________________________________________
>
> VITRALES STAINED GLASS CLUB
> http://clubs.yahoo.com/clubs/vitralesstainedglass
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

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From owner-glass Fri Feb  4 10:20:11 2000
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X-Path: mtcon.net!shigbee
From: "Shari" <shigbee@mtcon.net>
To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>,
Subject: Glass Craft Expo in Las Vegas?
Date: Fri, 4 Feb 2000 11:01:41 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hey all you "glassies" out there. Anyone headed to Las Vegas next month?
Glenna, Bob Du, Charlie, any other westerners? I'm going this year and have
a couple of workshops booked.

Shari in SLC



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From owner-glass Fri Feb  4 11:02:46 2000
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X-Path: ucdavis.edu!krmcdonald
From: "Kathe R. Mc Donald" <krmcdonald@ucdavis.edu>
To: "'Shari'" <shigbee@mtcon.net>, Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: RE: Glass Craft Expo in Las Vegas?
Date: Fri, 4 Feb 2000 12:47:44 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Organization: SOM - Office of Curricular Support
Precedence: bulk

I'm going to try to make it. 
Kathe from Sacramento 

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From owner-glass Fri Feb  4 11:30:01 2000
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X-Path: aol.com!Bobfuses
From: Bobfuses@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: Glass Craft Expo in Las Vegas?
Date: Fri, 4 Feb 2000 14:04:10 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

I'll have a booth at Class Craft Expo 2000. Mostly to show off the work of 
Bobby Valdez. He is a great fuser.

Bob in 92026

Please note change of address from bobdu@prodigy.net to bobfuses@aol.com
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From owner-glass Fri Feb  4 11:30:34 2000
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X-Path: aol.com!Bobfuses
From: Bobfuses@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: Stained Glass Mirrors
Date: Fri, 4 Feb 2000 14:12:32 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

In a message dated 2/4/00 2:37:44 AM Pacific Standard Time, 
ivargas@terra.com.pe writes:

> I have heard and read that it is necessary to use a sealant to make stained
>  glass mirrors, 

Some but not all mirror backings break down when exposed to flux and the 
silvering turns black, in a few days or weeks, ruining the piece. A stained 
glass shop will likely sell only mirror that does not get "mirror rot." 
Failing that there is a sealant sold for the purpose. I use a coat of any old 
varnish that I let dry well and never have a problem.

Bob in 92026

Please note change of address from bobdu@prodigy.net to bobfuses@aol.com
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From owner-glass Fri Feb  4 12:23:30 2000
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X-Path: gjr
From: gjr@bungi.com (Glenna Rand)
To: "Shari" <shigbee@mtcon.net>, glass
Subject: Re: Glass Craft Expo in Las Vegas?
Date: Fri, 4 Feb 2000 12:07:14 PST
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[In the message entitled "Glass Craft Expo in Las Vegas?" on Feb  4, 11:01, "Shari" writes:]
> Hey all you "glassies" out there. Anyone headed to Las Vegas next month?
> Glenna, Bob Du, Charlie, any other westerners? I'm going this year and have
> a couple of workshops booked.
> 
yes,..	I'll be there!  I've got all 4 days booked with classes.
What are you taking?  I'm mainly taking fusing classes.


-- 
Glenna Rand
gjr@bungi.com
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From owner-glass Fri Feb  4 13:57:50 2000
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X-Path: adelphia.net!alewis
From: alewis@adelphia.net
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Interesting item on eBay web site item#249469923: Etching & Engraving -a Studio Handbook
Date: Fri, 04 Feb 2000 13:48:59 PST
Message-ID: <20000204214858.BB4F430C3@rocketfrog.ebay.com>
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I saw this item for sale at eBay, and thought 
that you might be interested. It's a book on
Etching & Engraving - a Studio Handbook ... 
actually, there are a couple of interesting books
on etching techniques. Search for "etching"

Title of item:	Etching & Engraving -a Studio Handbook
Seller:	martinpjanuario@worldnet.att.net
Starts:	Jan-30-00 09:13:14 PST
Ends:	Feb-06-00 09:13:14 PST
Price:	Starts at $2.00
To bid on the item, go to:	http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=249469923


Item Description:		
	Etching and Engraving- a Studio Handbook by Walter Chamberlain was published by the Vikinig Press in 1973.  Hardcover of 200 pages has 104 illustrations (8 in color).  This comprehensive and interesting book has 16 chapters:The Technique of EtchingSoft-ground EtchingAquatintOpen Bite, Deep Etch and Relief EtchingPhoto-etchingAcidsMethods of BitingCorrections & AlterationsThe History and Development of Burin EngravingThe Technique of Burin EngravingDrypointMezzotintIntaglio Printing: MonochromeIntaglio Printing: MonochromeIntaglio Printing: ColurThe Finishing TouchesYou will be pleased with the quality of the explanations and the beauty of the etchings and engravings which grace this book.  
Book is in Very Good Condition with light wear to dust cover.  Pages are tight and clean.  No writing in book.  Buyer pays 2.50 shipping and insurance.  Good Luck!

	Visit eBay, the world's largest Personal Trading Community athttp://www.ebay.com
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From owner-glass Fri Feb  4 14:00:25 2000
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From: Steve Wernecke <steve@villagesoftsmith.com>
To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
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Subject: Re: Glass Craft Expo in Las Vegas?
Date: Fri, 04 Feb 2000 13:27:31 -0800
Message-ID: <3.0.3.32.20000204132731.009c4cf0@mail.villagesoftsmith.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
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I'm considering it...have gotten as far as reserving the weekend on my
calendar just in case.

Steve in N. California

At 11:01 AM 2/4/00 -0700, Shari wrote:
>Hey all you "glassies" out there. Anyone headed to Las Vegas next month?
>Glenna, Bob Du, Charlie, any other westerners? I'm going this year and have
>a couple of workshops booked.
>
>Shari in SLC
>
>
>
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>
>
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From owner-glass Fri Feb  4 14:17:44 2000
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From: Rbytl@aol.com
To: shigbee@mtcon.net, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: Glass Craft Expo in Las Vegas?
Date: Fri, 4 Feb 2000 16:35:22 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Hi,

Since I've moved from metro L.A. to Las Vegas, I'll be there for sure.

Interesting glass to check out in the area, from the 10 MYN $'s ceiling @ 
Bellagio, and the incredible work in the main Casino @ Sunset Station, to the 
equally nice but more mundane panels at Barbary Coast.

The syncronized (to Sinatra, and Andrea Bocelli, to name a few) fountains at 
Bellagio, are not to be missed. Of the two newest resorts, Paris and Mandalay 
Bay, the two are very different, and equally worth seeing.

Of the downtown hotels offered, the Golden Nugget is far superior (same 
ownership as Bellagio, Mirage, and Treasure Island).



Richard Callahan
Richard Callahan Stained Glass, Las Vegas
(Formerly Glassics Artglass, Vvalencia, Ca) 
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From owner-glass Fri Feb  4 16:28:21 2000
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From: Hilary <hilary@voicenet.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: NG: Thanks for alumni site
Date: Fri, 04 Feb 2000 19:12:24 -0400
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Sparks,

> >Now, what kind of glass piece can I make for her to celebrate our
> >finding each other?????!!!!
> >
> A suncatcher of your school's mascot, maybe?
> 
Hummmm, well, considering our history at school, maybe a suncatcher of
us mooning the school mascot....<g>

Hilary
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From owner-glass Fri Feb  4 22:31:12 2000
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From: "jazzykid" <jazzykid@tir.com>
To: <glass@daver.bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Glass Craft Expo in Las Vegas?
Date: Sat, 5 Feb 2000 01:27:04 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Couple of Michiganders headed that way too.  How about a glass gab fest some
night after classes are over for the day and convention center is closed?
We are staying at the Nugget too.

Thanks Richard for the info on what glass to see..I wanted a list before I
headed out to Vegas.  If you have any more suggestions please pass them
along.

Jill Medlyn



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From owner-glass Sat Feb  5 02:53:17 2000
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From: MAILER-DAEMON
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Gatewayed mail message
Date: Sat Feb  5 02:32:16 2000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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CENTURIES  OLD  PASTRY  RECIPE  FOUND !

Exquisite Pastry, Simple to Make.

The amazing find of  probably the oldest recipe known, from Bakers to
European Royality, has been found in a forgotten chamber of a Swiss Castle.
(and you know the Swiss love extra good things to eat)

This recipe was once used only in the baking kitchens of the 
Kings and Queens Castles of all of Europe and was such a well
kept secret that it was lost for hundreds of years.

The recipe is easy to follow and creates the finest pastry you
will ever taste. Strong words, but one taste and I’m sure you’ll agree.
 It can be sugar free or sugar added. Either way the results are scrumptious.

This marvelous pastry may be served as cookies,
 scone style or use any Holiday or figure dough cutter 
and it is very inexpensive to make !

You will be the envy of all your family and friends when you serve
this delightful pastry, you may even be good to yourself and
bake up a batch when no one is looking.

Be fore warned these pastries will disapear in front of your eyes !

My Grandmother was invited to a luncheon where this pastry was served
and she has not stopped raving about the delicious pastry that was passed to her.
My Granma, being a great cook herself, was an old friend of the luncheon
hostess and found out that a distant relative had sent the recipe, in a recent letter,
to the hostess. You know how good cooks love to share recipes.

I would like to share this recipe with you but I don't know how
many of these recipes I'll be able to send so please write soon..

Make sure you send your e-mail address !

Please send  $5.00  US, to cover expenses, cash or check to;

Ellie Gilbert
P.O.Box  970232
Coconut Creek, FL
33097

Please include your name and address and e-mail address.



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From owner-glass Sat Feb  5 03:01:48 2000
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X-Path: esatclear.ie!glassman
From: Tony Dutcher <glassman@esatclear.ie>
To: Ivette Vargas Icochea <ivargas@terra.com.pe>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Stained Glass Mirrors
Date: Sat, 05 Feb 2000 10:48:45 +0000
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I know a few of you have already replied to this, but you left out a few
points. After seven years in a float glass shop, the correct way to first grind
your mirror is by first grinding silvered side up at a 45 degree angle to the
grinder head. This keeps the backing from chipping when you  shape the glass on
the grinder. Make sure the glass is perfectly clean and dry before you use any
mirror sealant. We even used to use a hair dryer on the mirror. When you spray
on the mirror sealant, you only need to cover the first 2 inches on the edge of
the mirror.
I hope this helps.

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From owner-glass Sat Feb  5 05:57:27 2000
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From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/mixed;
Subject: Press Release:Fenton fusing workshop
Date: Sat, 5 Feb 2000 08:29:31 -0500
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This is a MIME-encapsulated message

--167c5c6a-dbc7-11d3-920b-00805fea3fcf
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The following press release is being forwarded by the
International Guild of Glass Artists as a service to our
members.  It is not an endoursement.

Christie A. Wood-IGGA Exec.Director
-------------Forwarded Message-----------------
From:	"Cathe Grieshaber", INTERNET:cgrieshaber@erols.com
To:	[unknown], INTERNET:events@igga.org
Date:	02/04/2000  5:55 PM
RE:	fenton fusing press release
 =

Studio Stained Glass
908 N White Horse Pike =

Stratford, NJ 08084-1002
February 4, 2000

Following is information for an upcoming workshop
to be held here at Studio Stained Glass that I
would like to be listed in your News & Events
column in the upcoming issue. =

Please contact me if there are any problems.

"Basic Fusing, Slumping and Introductory Glory Hole"

A Dan Fenton 4 day Workshop, Thursday to Sunday,
April 6th -9th , 10am-6pm with extended hours being
held at Studio Stained Glass, 908 N. White Horse Pike,
Stratford, NJ 08084, (856)784-7799.

This workshop encompasses basic firing procedures,
glass, mold materials, and applied finishes with an
added bonus of working with the glory hole.  An
extensive set of notes, information and all materials
provided. Fee $400.00 with a 50% deposit required with
no refunds after 3 weeks prior start, credit will be
given towards future workshops.  Checks and credit cards
accepted.  For more info contact Cathe Grieshaber at
Studio Stained Glass or Fenton Glass Studio,
851  81st Ave. #201, Oakland, CA 94621, (510)638-1313
www.cyberthings.com/fenton.

Sincerely,
Cathe Grieshaber, Owner
Studio Stained Glass=

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bic+PC9zcGFuPjxzcGFuIA0Kc3R5bGU9Im1zby1zcGFjZXJ1bjogeWVzIj6gPC9zcGFuPkFVVE9U
RVhUTElTVCA8c3BhbiBzdHlsZT0nbXNvLWVsZW1lbnQ6ZmllbGQtc2VwYXJhdG9yJz48L3NwYW4+
PCFbZW5kaWZdLS0+U3R1ZGlvDQpTdGFpbmVkIEdsYXNzPCEtLVtpZiBzdXBwb3J0RmllbGRzXT48
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c28tZWxlbWVudDpmaWVsZC1zZXBhcmF0b3InPjwvc3Bhbj48IVtlbmRpZl0tLT5DRzwhLS1baWYg
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--167c5c6a-dbc7-11d3-920b-00805fea3fcf--
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From owner-glass Sat Feb  5 09:04:38 2000
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From: Witchdoc3@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: NG: Thanks for alumni site
Date: Sat, 5 Feb 2000 11:23:57 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk


In a message dated 2/4/00 7:29:12 PM, hilary@voicenet.com writes:

>Hummmm, well, considering our history at school, maybe a suncatcher of
>us mooning the school mascot....<g>

That sounds more like it........ I *was* being facetious, after all! High 
school (and junior high, for that matter) is one place I only go back to in 
my Wildest Nightmares........


Sparks
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From owner-glass Sat Feb  5 14:11:46 2000
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From: Kauriee@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Las Vegas
Date: Sat, 5 Feb 2000 16:58:51 EST
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Is there a web site for the Las Vegas show?
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From owner-glass Sat Feb  5 16:37:18 2000
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X-Path: gjr
From: gjr@bungi.com (Glenna Rand)
To: Kauriee@aol.com, glass
Subject: Re: Las Vegas
Date: Sat, 5 Feb 2000 16:17:04 PST
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[In the message entitled "Las Vegas" on Feb  5, 16:58, Kauriee@aol.com writes:]
> Is there a web site for the Las Vegas show?
> ----


Yes,..it's:
www.glasscraftexpo.com





-- 
Glenna Rand
gjr@bungi.com
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From owner-glass Sat Feb  5 17:07:48 2000
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X-Path: ceps.nasm.edu!jellison
From: Pat Jellison <jellison@ceps.nasm.edu>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Mirrors (a question while we're on the subject)
Date: Sat, 05 Feb 2000 19:49:35 -0500
Message-ID: <389CC51E.5CE943AB@ceps.nasm.edu>
Precedence: bulk

Since we've been on the subject of mirrors, here's a
question:  What's the best way to smooth/round off
sharp corners of a large beveled mirror?

Said mirror forms the door of a bathroom medicine
cabinet.  The edges of the mirror protrude past the
edge of the cabinet, creating an overhang; also, when
the door is open, those sharp corners are right out
there, asking for someone to bump into them. (I know,
I know...BAAAAD design.  I didn't want them in the
first place but got out-voted.)

Dismounting the mirrors would be a real pain, and
I don't have the grinding equipment to handle them
anyhow (I'm just a hobbyist...)

Can I use my Dremel moto-tool on them? Or?  I just 
want to round those sharp 90-degree corners (unless one 
of you has a different and better idea of how to 
fix the problem!)

Many thanks in advance!

PJ Jellison
(jellison@ceps.nasm.edu)
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From owner-glass Sat Feb  5 19:27:19 2000
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From: Rbytl@aol.com
To: jazzykid@tir.com, glass@daver.bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: Glass Craft Expo in Las Vegas?
Date: Sat, 5 Feb 2000 22:04:24 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

You are very welcome.

I'd be happy to attend / help arrange a bungi glass gab, or whatever.


Richard
Richard Callahan Stained Glass
Las Vegas, NV
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From owner-glass Sun Feb  6 04:17:36 2000
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X-Path: esatclear.ie!glassman
From: Tony Dutcher <glassman@esatclear.ie>
To: Pat Jellison <jellison@ceps.nasm.edu>, glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Mirrors (a question while we're on the subject)
Date: Sun, 06 Feb 2000 10:53:27 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<389CC51E.5CE943AB@ceps.nasm.edu>>
Precedence: bulk

One way that we used to edge mirrors that were too big for the wet
sander was by hand. What you need is a 4x7x 3/8 piece of plywood and a
sheet of 220 wet/dry sandpaper. Wrap the sandpaper around the plywood
and staple the reverse side. You will also need a spray bottle of water
to keep the mirror and the sandpaper very wet as you are sanding. Start
by taking the edge of the silvered side of the mirror by sanding the
back side. Sand from the interior of the mirror (even though you are
only hitting the edge) outwards, this will avoid chipping the glass.
once you have the backing taken back a little you can be more aggressive
with the sandpaper. It should take you about ten minutes to get a radius
of a quarter, as a precaution you might want to put a sheet of contact
paper over the back of the mirror just to keep you from scratching it,
its really easy to do.


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From owner-glass Sun Feb  6 20:10:01 2000
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From: "jazzykid" <jazzykid@tir.com>
To: "Bungi" <Glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Glass sayings or bumper stickers
Date: Sun, 6 Feb 2000 22:56:54 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hi,

Some how...I have misplaced the sayings or bumper sticks that all the
imaginative folks contributed..I have checked some of the archives but time
flies...and can't remember what month that was.  I remember receiving a list
of all of the sayings from someone..Dorothy or Shirley..Was that you???.  If
it is possible could you please email me that list again.

Thank you,

Jill Medlyn

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From owner-glass Sun Feb  6 20:15:11 2000
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X-Path: aol.com!Bobfuses
From: Bobfuses@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Gryphon's new wire saw.
Date: Sun, 6 Feb 2000 23:00:09 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Subject: Evaluation of Gryphon's New Wire Saw
From: "Jeffrey Castaline" <A HREF="mailto:aanraku@eStainedGlass.net">aanraku@e
StainedGlass.net</A> 
Date: 2/6/00 7:11 PM Pacific Standard Time
Message-id: <CJqn4.7016$Mk2.270409@newsread2.prod.itd.earthlink.net>

Yesterday, Todd Vargo, Director of Sales and Marketing for the Gryphon
Corporation brought their new wire saw to our studio for us to evaluate.

For those who are interested in this new omnidirectional wire saw for glass,
you can read our evaluation at:
<A HREF="http://www.bayareastainedglass.com/gryphon.htm">http://www.bayareasta
inedglass.com/gryphon.htm</A>

--
Jeffrey Castaline
Partner/Owner
Aanraku Stained Glass
2323 S. El Camino Real
San Mateo, CA 94403
Tel: (650) 372-0527
Email:  aanraku@BayAreaStainedGlass.com
Webpage <A HREF="http://www.BayAreaStainedGlass.com">http://www.BayAreaStained
Glass.com</A>
-----------------------------------------------------------
Copied from rec.crafts.glass. I know little more.


Bob in 92026

Please note change of address from bobdu@prodigy.net to bobfuses@aol.com
----
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From owner-glass Sun Feb  6 21:11:37 2000
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X-Path: ilnk.com!andor
From: "Linda Jo Letscher" <andor@ilnk.com>
To: "jazzykid" <jazzykid@tir.com>,
Subject: Re: Glass sayings or bumper stickers
Date: Sun, 6 Feb 2000 23:38:59 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Jill,
Wish I still had them, I clean my hard drive off weekly and often times get
rid of things I wanted to keep.  I hope someone post them, if you get it
privately, would you post it to the list again,
Thanks,
Linda Jo

-----Original Message-----
From: jazzykid <jazzykid@tir.com>
To: Bungi <Glass@bungi.com>
Date: Sunday, February 06, 2000 11:17 PM
Subject: Glass sayings or bumper stickers


>Hi,
>
>Some how...I have misplaced the sayings or bumper sticks that all the
>imaginative folks contributed..I have checked some of the archives but time
>flies...and can't remember what month that was.  I remember receiving a
list
>of all of the sayings from someone..Dorothy or Shirley..Was that you???.
If
>it is possible could you please email me that list again.
>
>Thank you,
>
>Jill Medlyn
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


----
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From owner-glass Sun Feb  6 23:09:36 2000
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X-Path: infinet.com!glasscat
From: "Carolyn" <glasscat@infinet.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: New Gryphon saw
Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2000 00:55:09 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

I tried to access the address concerning the evaluation of the new wire saw
from Gryphon, but it was apparently incorrect. I tried several variations,
but nothing worked. Has anyone got the correct address, or any "hands on"
information concerning the new saw?
Thanks in advance,
Carolyn

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From owner-glass Mon Feb  7 05:23:26 2000
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From: "Nadine BethSchneider" <nadinesfolly@erols.com>
To: "Carolyn" <glasscat@infinet.com>,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: New Gryphon saw
Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2000 08:04:02 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Me, too! I couldn't get there from here.

Nadine
----- Original Message -----
From: Carolyn <glasscat@infinet.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Monday, February 07, 2000 12:55 AM
Subject: New Gryphon saw


> I tried to access the address concerning the evaluation of the new wire
saw
> from Gryphon, but it was apparently incorrect. I tried several variations,
> but nothing worked. Has anyone got the correct address, or any "hands on"
> information concerning the new saw?
> Thanks in advance,
> Carolyn
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>

----
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X-Path: CYBERNEX.NET!tonyk
From: "Tony Kuzinski" <tonyk@cybernex.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: New Gryphon saw
Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2000 08:00:59 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Carolyn,
    The URL for the evaluation is
http://www.bayareastainedglass.com/gryphon.htm  I pasted the URL into my
browser so I know that it works.

Tony




----- Original Message -----
From: Carolyn <glasscat@infinet.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Monday, February 07, 2000 12:55 AM
Subject: New Gryphon saw


> I tried to access the address concerning the evaluation of the new wire
saw
> from Gryphon, but it was apparently incorrect. I tried several variations,
> but nothing worked. Has anyone got the correct address, or any "hands on"
> information concerning the new saw?
> Thanks in advance,
> Carolyn
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>

----
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From owner-glass Mon Feb  7 06:11:54 2000
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X-Path: warmglass.com!mbwalker
From: "Brad Walker" <mbwalker@warmglass.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: New Gryphon saw (reposting link)
Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2000 08:55:46 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Try this:  http://www.bayareastainedglass.com/gryphon.htm

Note that review is of prototype, not production model.

New blades projected to cost $25 for 3 vs. around $100 each for other saws.

Reviewer's conclusion:  9 on a scale of 10.  Same reviewer gave Taurus Ring
Saw 10 on a scale of 10.

My conclusion:  Reviewer must not have to pay for the blades.

Brad
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------
For information about warm glass techniques and processes
such as fusing, slumping, and kiln forming, please visit
the Warm Glass website at http://www.warmglass.com


----- Original Message -----
From: Nadine BethSchneider <nadinesfolly@erols.com>
To: Carolyn <glasscat@infinet.com>
Sent: Monday, February 07, 2000 8:04 AM
Subject: Re: New Gryphon saw


> Me, too! I couldn't get there from here.
>
> Nadine
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Carolyn <glasscat@infinet.com>
> To: <glass@bungi.com>
> Sent: Monday, February 07, 2000 12:55 AM
> Subject: New Gryphon saw
>
>
> > I tried to access the address concerning the evaluation of the new wire
> saw
> > from Gryphon, but it was apparently incorrect. I tried several
variations,
> > but nothing worked. Has anyone got the correct address, or any "hands
on"
> > information concerning the new saw?
> > Thanks in advance,
> > Carolyn
> >
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> >
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>

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From owner-glass Mon Feb  7 06:53:42 2000
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From: "Glass Expressions" <glassx@bardstown.com>
To: "IGGA BUNGI" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/mixed;
Subject: Fw: Fw: Important READ,,,,,ng
Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2000 10:41:50 +0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0078_01BF7157.F0898120
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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-----Original Message-----
From: csteele <csteele@zoomtown.com>
To: anita richmond <glassx@bardstown.com>
Date: Monday, February 07, 2000 9:43 AM
Subject: Fwd: Fw: Important READ,,,,,


>Date: Saturday, February 05, 2000 at 10:30:40 AM EST
>From: hanauer <hanauer@gateway.net>
>Subject: Fw: Important READ,,,,,
>---------------------------------
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: GARRY WINDER <WINDERB@worldnet.att.net>
>To: Merrill & Jean Ann Rhodes <MRHODES@NETUSA1.NET>; Ben & Sandy Lucus
<jetta@rapidnet.com>; Jack <jbosler@earthlink.net>; laura hanauer
<hanauer@gateway.net>; Winder Mom and Dad <gjwinder@iol32.com>; Geri
<GerrIAN@AOL.com>; Christen Hunt <DRHUNT63@AOL.com>
>Cc: Lisa Greaser <SPORTEY@FLASH.NET>; Ron and Barbara
<rewinder@adelphia.net>; Ross Fettig <MRFETTIG24@prodigy.net>; Libby Jackson
<libbyj@arches.uga.edu>
>Date: Friday, February 04, 2000 5:20 PM
>Subject: Fw: Important READ,,,,,
>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Brian Fettig <bjfeg@ctelcom.net>
>To: brenda winder <winderb@worldnet.att.net>
>Date: Friday, February 04, 2000 12:58 PM
>Subject: Fw: Important READ,,,,,
>
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Diane Drumm <drummd@basf-corp.com>
>To: <DRUMM32793@aol.com>; JOAN WARWICK <JOANWARWICK@prodigy.net>
>Sent: Wednesday, February 02, 2000 7:38 AM
>Subject: FW: Important READ,,,,,
>
>
>>
>>
>>
>> > Subject:     Important READ,,,,,
>> >
>> > Warning:
>> > >>
>> > Several shipments of bananas from Costa Rica have been infected with
>> > necrotizing fasciitis, otherwise known as flesh eating bacteria.
>Recently
>> > this disease has decimated the monkey population in Costa Rica.
>> > >>
>> > We are now just learning that the disease has been able to graft itself
>> > to the skin of fruits in the region, most notably the Banana which is
>> > Costa Rica's largest export. Until this finding scientist were not sure
>> > how the infection was being transmitted.
>> > >>
>> > It is advised not to purchase Bananas for the next three weeks as this
>> > is the period of time for which bananas that have been shipped to the
US
>> > with the possibility of carrying this disease. If you have eaten a
>banana in
>> the
>> > last 2-3 days and come down with a fever followed by a skin infection
>> > seek "Medical Attention"!!!
>> > >>
>> > The skin infection from necrotizing fasciitis is very painful and eats
>> > two to three centimeters of flesh per hour. Amputation is likely, death
>is
>> > possible..
>> > >>
>> > If you are more than an hour from a medical center burning the flesh
>> > ahead of the infected area is advised to help slow the spread of the
>> > infection.
>> > >>
>> > The FDA has been reluctant to issue a country wide warning because of
>> > fear of a nationwide panic. They have secretly admitted that they feel
>> > upwards of 15,000 Americans will be affected by this but that these are
>> > acceptable numbers.
>> > >>
>> > Please forward this to as many people as possible as we do not feel
>15,000
>>   people is an acceptable number.
>> > >>
>> > Manheim Research Institute
>> > Cynthia Adams
>> > Smith.Agency@Prodigy.net
>> > Phone: 770-319-0909
>> > Fax: 770-319-1802
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>Cathi Steele Mary Kay Cosmetics
>www.mymk.com/csteele1
>(513)779-3720
>e-mail: csteele@zoomtown.com
>
>

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From owner-glass Mon Feb  7 07:23:18 2000
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From: "Glass Expressions" <glassx@bardstown.com>
To: "IGGA BUNGI" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: multipart/related;
Subject: title for sg project
Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2000 11:04:06 +0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Hi to all stained glass people.  I'm doing a stained glass project  of a
baseball bat and hands holding onto the bat till they reach the top .  this
is a game we played a children to see who went first.  however i know it has
a name but every one i ask just know it as who goes first - please help if
you know the real name .  for its driving me crazy now wanting to know the
name of it!  thanks ricky  then i can put a title to it also.


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------=_NextPart_000_010B_01BF715B.0D0D47C0--

----
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To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
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From owner-glass Mon Feb  7 07:58:58 2000
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m12HqHJ-0000WIa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Mon, 7 Feb 2000 07:40:41 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #80 built 2000-Feb-7)
X-Path: mtcon.net!shigbee
From: "Shari" <shigbee@mtcon.net>
To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: Glass sayings or bumper stickers
Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2000 08:48:52 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

I thought I had them, but no luck. Instead, I found these Murphy's laws: (my
apologies for not noting who posted them eons ago)
Shari
------------------------------------------

MURPHY'S LAW OF STAINED GLASS

Murphy's original Law:
anything that can go wrong, will

Solder Law:
Hot Solder looks exactly like cold solder

Breakage Law
The number of bad breaks you get is directly proportional to the price of
the glass

Breakage Law 99
The number of bad breaks is in opposite proportion to the amount of glass on
hand

Breakage Law 999:
The number of bad breaks is proportional to the distance from your Supplier

Law of Studio Geometry
Any horizontal surface is soon piled up
At the most difficult (or messiest) point in construction of any project,
the phone will ring.
The moment your hands touch lead, flux or patina, extreme hunger pains will
commence.
Everyone knows someone who does glass.... cheaper.
One lead joint will always be left unsoldered

Replacement Law:
The moment you replace a lost tool with a new one, you will find the
original

Installation Law:
The time required to install is proportional to the number of people
watching
There is no such thing as a clean Stained Glass Window
The number of people you didn't know were listening is proportional to the
severity of the swear word used.
Everything takes longer than you think
Deadlines are always closer than you thought

Installation Law 99:
The tool you desperately need is back at the Studio



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From owner-glass Mon Feb  7 08:10:51 2000
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m12HqLt-0000QJa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Mon, 7 Feb 2000 07:45:25 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #80 built 2000-Feb-7)
X-Path: ix.netcom.com!mbwalker
From: "Brad Walker" <mbwalker@ix.netcom.com>
To: "Glass Expressions" <glassx@bardstown.com>, "IGGA BUNGI" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: ANOTHER HOAX.  (Was: Fw: Important READ,,,,,ng)
Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2000 10:44:53 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

This banana e-mail thing is another hoax.  Please, please, please have the
decency to check out this crap before you re-post it to the world.

If you want verification that it's a hoax, check (among other places) the
National Necrotizing Fasciitis Foundation.  Url at:  http://www.nnff.org/

Brad Walker


----- Original Message -----
From: Glass Expressions <glassx@bardstown.com>
To: IGGA BUNGI <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 06, 2000 9:41 PM
Subject: Fw: Fw: Important READ,,,,,ng


> This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
>
> ------=_NextPart_000_0078_01BF7157.F0898120
> Content-Type: text/plain;
> charset="iso-8859-1"
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: csteele <csteele@zoomtown.com>
> To: anita richmond <glassx@bardstown.com>
> Date: Monday, February 07, 2000 9:43 AM
> Subject: Fwd: Fw: Important READ,,,,,
>
>
> >Date: Saturday, February 05, 2000 at 10:30:40 AM EST
> >From: hanauer <hanauer@gateway.net>
> >Subject: Fw: Important READ,,,,,
> >---------------------------------
> >
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: GARRY WINDER <WINDERB@worldnet.att.net>
> >To: Merrill & Jean Ann Rhodes <MRHODES@NETUSA1.NET>; Ben & Sandy Lucus
> <jetta@rapidnet.com>; Jack <jbosler@earthlink.net>; laura hanauer
> <hanauer@gateway.net>; Winder Mom and Dad <gjwinder@iol32.com>; Geri
> <GerrIAN@AOL.com>; Christen Hunt <DRHUNT63@AOL.com>
> >Cc: Lisa Greaser <SPORTEY@FLASH.NET>; Ron and Barbara
> <rewinder@adelphia.net>; Ross Fettig <MRFETTIG24@prodigy.net>; Libby
Jackson
> <libbyj@arches.uga.edu>
> >Date: Friday, February 04, 2000 5:20 PM
> >Subject: Fw: Important READ,,,,,
> >
> >
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: Brian Fettig <bjfeg@ctelcom.net>
> >To: brenda winder <winderb@worldnet.att.net>
> >Date: Friday, February 04, 2000 12:58 PM
> >Subject: Fw: Important READ,,,,,
> >
> >
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: Diane Drumm <drummd@basf-corp.com>
> >To: <DRUMM32793@aol.com>; JOAN WARWICK <JOANWARWICK@prodigy.net>
> >Sent: Wednesday, February 02, 2000 7:38 AM
> >Subject: FW: Important READ,,,,,
> >
> >
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> > Subject:     Important READ,,,,,
> >> >
> >> > Warning:
> >> > >>
> >> > Several shipments of bananas from Costa Rica have been infected with
> >> > necrotizing fasciitis, otherwise known as flesh eating bacteria.
> >Recently
> >> > this disease has decimated the monkey population in Costa Rica.
> >> > >>
> >> > We are now just learning that the disease has been able to graft
itself
> >> > to the skin of fruits in the region, most notably the Banana which is
> >> > Costa Rica's largest export. Until this finding scientist were not
sure
> >> > how the infection was being transmitted.
> >> > >>
> >> > It is advised not to purchase Bananas for the next three weeks as
this
> >> > is the period of time for which bananas that have been shipped to the
> US
> >> > with the possibility of carrying this disease. If you have eaten a
> >banana in
> >> the
> >> > last 2-3 days and come down with a fever followed by a skin infection
> >> > seek "Medical Attention"!!!
> >> > >>
> >> > The skin infection from necrotizing fasciitis is very painful and
eats
> >> > two to three centimeters of flesh per hour. Amputation is likely,
death
> >is
> >> > possible..
> >> > >>
> >> > If you are more than an hour from a medical center burning the flesh
> >> > ahead of the infected area is advised to help slow the spread of the
> >> > infection.
> >> > >>
> >> > The FDA has been reluctant to issue a country wide warning because of
> >> > fear of a nationwide panic. They have secretly admitted that they
feel
> >> > upwards of 15,000 Americans will be affected by this but that these
are
> >> > acceptable numbers.
> >> > >>
> >> > Please forward this to as many people as possible as we do not feel
> >15,000
> >>   people is an acceptable number.
> >> > >>
> >> > Manheim Research Institute
> >> > Cynthia Adams
> >> > Smith.Agency@Prodigy.net
> >> > Phone: 770-319-0909
> >> > Fax: 770-319-1802
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >Cathi Steele Mary Kay Cosmetics
> >www.mymk.com/csteele1
> >(513)779-3720
> >e-mail: csteele@zoomtown.com
> >
> >
>
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> PC9IVE1MPgoK
>
> ------=_NextPart_000_0078_01BF7157.F0898120--
>
> ----
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>

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From owner-glass Mon Feb  7 08:28:58 2000
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	for rglass-42; Mon, 7 Feb 2000 07:53:19 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #80 built 2000-Feb-7)
X-Path: worldnet.att.net!chitchay
From: "Shay Friel" <chitchay@worldnet.att.net>
To: "Stained  Glass" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Glass sayings or bumper stickers
Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2000 10:49:46 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

I went back to some saved mail and found these.  I believe that this was the
list so far.
Shay Friel

> > >
> > > Shirley Balloch wrote:
> > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > You bet your sweet glass...
> > > > > A Glass of It's Own
> > > > > Get Glassed!
> > > > > Glassified
> > > > > "I'd rather be scoring"
> > > > > Torched.
> > > > >  "snaps under pressure"
> > > > > > "on the cutting edge"
> > > > > > "grinds with the best of 'em"
> > > > > > "%$&#, foiled again!"
> > > > > "Leaded be"
> > > > > ... and leaded be Light.
> > > > > And God saw it was good.
> > > > > Curses, Foiled again.
> > > > > "Glass Artists Say No to Crack!"
> > > > >
> > > > > Honk if you love stained glass"
> > > > > "If you seek beauty, work with stained glass"
> > > > > "Visualize....stained glass"
> > > > > My windows can beat your windows"
> > > > >            /\                            _________________
> > > > >                   /    \
> > > > > \                            /
> > > > >                 /        \                         \   Stained
Glass  /
> > > > >               / Beauty \                        \         on
/
> > > > >             /      on      \                        \     Board
/
> > > > >           /      Board    \                         \
/
> > > > >          /____________\                         \_______/
> > > > > "View the world through stained glass"
> > > > > "glassers know the score."
> > > > >  "glassers know how to score."
> > > > >
> > > > > "Get your Glass in Gear!"
> > > > >
> > > > > "Lead, Foil, or get out of the way!"
> > > > >
> > > > > "My other car is a Kiln"
> > > > >
> > > > > "Don't laugh, I spend my $$$ on Glass."
> > > > >
> > > > > "Aw flux, foiled again!"
> > > > >
> > > > > "To bead, or not to bead"  (Shakespeare)
> > > > >
> > > > > "Keep your glass to the grindstone"
> > > > >
> > > > > "Oh, Frit...blasted again!"
> > > > >
> > > > > "Use Came, or Foil, Then Solder"  (Caesar said it best! I came, I
saw..
> > > > > well
> > > > > you know)
> > > > >
> > > > > "Working my Glass Off!"  (has a double meaning)
> > > > >
> > > > > "You have got to be fidding?"  (Now I am killing myself!!!  LOL)
> > > > >
> > > > > "Grozing in the Glass"  song - (Grazing in the grass)
> > > > >
> > > > > "Got Glass?"  (and we could all have little glass moustaches)
> > > > >
> > > > > "Super cooled liquid manipulator"  (okay, a little on the egghead
side)
> > > > >
> > > > > "Heart of Glass"  (Blondie's back you know?)
> > > > >
> > > > >  GIVE BLOOD
> > > > >         become a stained-glass artist
> > > > > Stained Glass Artists - a cut above the rest.
> > > > > The Pane ........ ohhhhh the Pane.
> > > > > "Life is a multicolored Pane."
> > > > >
> > > > > "Life is a Pane in the Glass"
> > > > >
> > > > > "I look at life thru multicolored glasses"
> > > > >
> > > > > "If the pieces fit.....solder them!"
> > > > I'd rather be scoring  ..... than snoring!
> > > I'd rather be leading
> > >  If Stained Glass was cheap and easy, everybody would be doing it!!
> > "lead, foil, or get the hell out of the way!"
> > "> "Lead, follow, or get the h*ll out of the way!"
>  I'd rather groze.  (instead of score?)
>  If Stained Glass was cheap and easy, everybody would be doing it!!
>  "The Brit Chick Rules".
>  I'd rather groze.  (instead of score?)
> Stained glass is a grind.
Stained glass groze on you.
Geez...I'd rather score (or get lucky) anyday!!
"Once you learn how to Score, Grinding and Grozing comes easy."
Grozing in the Glass.

----- Original Message -----
From: jazzykid <jazzykid@tir.com>
To: Bungi <Glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 06, 2000 10:56 PM
Subject: Glass sayings or bumper stickers


> Hi,
>
> Some how...I have misplaced the sayings or bumper sticks that all the
> imaginative folks contributed..I have checked some of the archives but
time
> flies...and can't remember what month that was.  I remember receiving a
list
> of all of the sayings from someone..Dorothy or Shirley..Was that you???.
If
> it is possible could you please email me that list again.
>
> Thank you,
>
> Jill Medlyn
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>

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From owner-glass Mon Feb  7 10:00:27 2000
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	for rglass-42; Mon, 7 Feb 2000 09:41:33 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #80 built 2000-Feb-7)
X-Path: aol.com!Bobfuses
From: Bobfuses@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: Gryphon's new wire saw.
Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2000 12:41:05 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

> I'm curious about the number of hours of normal use you can expect from the
>  different saw blades.
>  Dee

That might be hard to find. Much of the life of any blade depends on the 
user. Pushing to hard, cutting on the back, low coolant, etc., can make a 
real difference in the life of a blade. The review did not get into this 
except to say one could push harder with the wire blades.

I tried the URL as received back from bungi and it worked fine. Not sure why 
others cannot bring it up but would welcome an explanation.

Bob in 92026

Ps: I do wish that hoaxes like the banana thing were not sent to the list. 
Even if true I would not want to see it on this list.
----
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From owner-glass Mon Feb  7 11:05:44 2000
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	for rglass-42; Mon, 7 Feb 2000 10:45:07 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #80 built 2000-Feb-7)
X-Path: netbridge.net!balloch
From: Shirley Balloch <balloch@netbridge.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: spelling question for glass term
Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 10:53:33 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Organization: Maiden Concepts
Precedence: bulk

Hi group,
How do you spell the past tense of patina?  Or is there even such a
word?
Thanks in advance.
Shirley B
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From owner-glass Mon Feb  7 12:36:06 2000
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	for rglass-42; Mon, 7 Feb 2000 12:17:29 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #80 built 2000-Feb-7)
X-Path: stratus.com!Charlie_Spitzer
From: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie_Spitzer@stratus.com>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: dichroic for sale: seen on rec.crafts.glass
Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2000 13:13:53 -0700 
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

i got this off the rec.crafts.glass newsgroup and thought some people might
be interested. please contact the seller directly and not me. apologies for
people who see this twice.

regards,
charlie
phx, az

------------------------------------------------------------
Subject: scrap dichroic glass 4 sale
Date: Sun, 6 Feb 2000 12:00:56 -0500
From: "Steven M. Kaczmarek" <kacz@locl.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.glass

Many unique textures such as:
croco - glue chip - moresco - wallpaper - thin reed - spectrum water glass
and baroque - ice on ice - cube - flute -everglade etc etc. There are a lot
of different colors such as magenta - cyan - red - blue - yellow - etc. This
glass was coated by TLC and is alllllllllllll on clear glass

I did not fused any of this type of dichroic glass but used it in many flat
panels of stained glass such as for borders in doors and sidelites and in
hot air balloon panels. I can send a pic of example
 The point here is that each glass type here has its own COE of which you
yourself will have to determine if you plan on fusing this dichro.On thing
for sure is that it is at least compatable to itself. Like dichro everglade
could be fused to plain clear everglade and on with each type of dichro.
 If you are using it to make kaleidoscopes - candle holders - craft items -
mobiles - jewelry and jewelry boxes - sculptures etc , then this glass would
work out fine
 The pieces are smallish and are all in various shapes of scrap. These are
cut off pieces and are what that implies -all unique shapes and lengths.
Sizes vary from chips to pieces that may be 6 inches long by an inch wide in
places


I will send you a pic of the scrap if interested and have approx 40 pounds
for sale at $30 a pound or I would be interested in selling the lot for a
good price

 I do have larger sheets and pieces but will not cut up for smaller
cuts -you would have to buy the whole piece of whatever size it would be at
.65 an inch

 I am not a wholesale outlet or a re-seller of glass but an artist that uses
many different types of dichro for different purposes and occassionally
sells off surplus to get more

I can be contacted at 219/925-9019 or email at kacz@locl.net



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From owner-glass Mon Feb  7 12:40:49 2000
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	for rglass-42; Mon, 7 Feb 2000 12:17:49 -0800 (PST)
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X-Path: stratus.com!Charlie_Spitzer
From: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie_Spitzer@stratus.com>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: colored back foil
Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2000 13:13:46 -0700 
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

i was thinking yesterday (and yes, it does hurt now) about this as i'm
making a piece that has lots of mirror pieces in it. 

we have to spray the edges and back of mirror pieces with clear sealer, and
then foil with either copper, silver, or black backed foil. why not use
colored spray paint, like silver, black, or even other colors that might
give an interesting affect? we could then use copper foil, and not have to
pay extra for the different colored backed foil. i always have a problem
with the black color melting and oozing out after soldering anyway.

regards,
charlie
phx, az
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From owner-glass Mon Feb  7 12:59:17 2000
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	for rglass-42; Mon, 7 Feb 2000 12:29:15 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #80 built 2000-Feb-7)
X-Path: ply.adelphia.net!jaugusta
From: Joseph Augusta <jaugusta@ply.adelphia.net>
To: Shirley Balloch <balloch@netbridge.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: spelling question for glass term
Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 15:20:25 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Shirley Balloch wrote:
> 
> Hi group,
> How do you spell the past tense of patina?  Or is there even such a
> word?
> Thanks in advance.

Patined, and when you're doing it, you're patining.

You're welcome in advance.

Joseph
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From owner-glass Mon Feb  7 15:05:57 2000
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X-Path: slonet.org!edupjohn
From: "Peggy W. Johnsen" <edupjohn@slonet.org>
To: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie_Spitzer@stratus.com>
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: colored back foil
Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2000 14:36:07 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Interesting take on using colored spray to give different effects on glass
rather than the foil.  The only thing that comes to mind as far as mirror
goes is that the unsilvered part will show whatever color you spray.  For
mirror, I always use the silver-backed foil so it will look more
"natural."  

Now, having said that...why don't you try the different colored paint on
cathedral glass and/or mirror glass and let us know what you find out. One
thing occurred to me would be to wonder if the colored paint would take
the heat from the solder and soldering iron.  Peggy

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From owner-glass Mon Feb  7 15:08:22 2000
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	for rglass-42; Mon, 7 Feb 2000 14:48:31 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #80 built 2000-Feb-7)
X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie_Spitzer@stratus.com>
Subject: Re: colored back foil
Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2000 22:27:46 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk

I'd say:
Go ahead Charlie and try it.  Then let us know the results.

Steve 

In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, Spitzer, Charlie
<Charlie_Spitzer@stratus.com> writes
>i was thinking yesterday (and yes, it does hurt now) about this as i'm
>making a piece that has lots of mirror pieces in it. 
>
>we have to spray the edges and back of mirror pieces with clear sealer, and
>then foil with either copper, silver, or black backed foil. why not use
>colored spray paint, like silver, black, or even other colors that might
>give an interesting affect? we could then use copper foil, and not have to
>pay extra for the different colored backed foil. i always have a problem
>with the black color melting and oozing out after soldering anyway.
>
>regards,
>charlie
>phx, az
>----
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-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Mon Feb  7 15:27:37 2000
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X-Path: n-link.com!patkel
From: "patrick kelly" <patkel@n-link.com>
To: "Glass Expressions" <glassx@bardstown.com>, "IGGA BUNGI" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: title for sg project
Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2000 16:43:57 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

We used to call it "chucking the bat", East Coast ....Baltimore

Patrick
Roses and Rainbows

-----Original Message-----
From: Glass Expressions <glassx@bardstown.com>
To: IGGA BUNGI <glass@bungi.com>
Date: Monday, February 07, 2000 7:34 AM
Subject: title for sg project


>This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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>Hi to all stained glass people.  I'm doing a stained glass project  of a
>baseball bat and hands holding onto the bat till they reach the top .  this
>is a game we played a children to see who went first.  however i know it
has
>a name but every one i ask just know it as who goes first - please help if
>you know the real name .  for its driving me crazy now wanting to know the
>name of it!  thanks ricky  then i can put a title to it also.
>
>
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>------=_NextPart_000_010B_01BF715B.0D0D47C0--
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>

----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
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From owner-glass Mon Feb  7 17:04:57 2000
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m12Hycn-0000fMa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Mon, 7 Feb 2000 16:35:25 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #80 built 2000-Feb-7)
X-Path: springnet1.com!jazz-sni
From: Don Udey <jazz-sni@springnet1.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Pricing
Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 18:24:55 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hi All...

I need your input...I made a Pokemon character for a little boy that his
mother works with me.  Other mothers want to purchase one for their
kids.  How do I go about pricing these little characters?  I've never
sold any glass art before and I want to be fair.  What rule-of-thumb do
you use when pricing your products?...Since I use such a small amount of
one color, how do I figure on the cost for the 2nd, 3rd etc.  A lot of
the glass I used was left overs.    Thanks!  You can e-mail me at
jazz-sni@springnet1.com if you want.


Linda U

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From owner-glass Mon Feb  7 18:07:38 2000
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Received: by daver.bungi.com
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	id <m12Hzc6-0000haa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Mon, 7 Feb 2000 17:38:46 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #80 built 2000-Feb-7)
X-Path: juno.com!pennyante
From: Stephanie N Larson <pennyante@juno.com>
To: balloch@netbridge.net
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: Re: spelling question for glass term
Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2000 17:23:28 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hi-I found this in my dictionary-hope it helps!

patina (pàt´n-e, pe-tê´ne) also patine (pà-tên´)  noun
1.	A thin greenish layer, usually basic copper sulfate, that forms on
copper or copper alloys, such as bronze, as a result of corrosion.
2.	The sheen on any surface, produced by age and use.
3.	A change in appearance produced by long-standing behavior, practice,
or use: a face etched with a patina of fine lines and tiny wrinkles.
****OR****
patinaed (pàt´n-îd, pe-tê´nîd) adjective
Having a coating, covering, or sheen; patinated. Used especially to
describe the corrosive green layer that forms on copper and its alloys.

Excerpted from The American Heritage® Dictionary of the English Language,
Third Edition  © 1996 by Houghton Mifflin Company. Electronic version
licensed from INSO Corporation; further reproduction and distribution in
accordance with the Copyright Law of the United States. All rights
reserved.
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Subject: lead and pregnancy
Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2000 20:55:28 EST
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Can someone tell me of a good resource for information on working with lead 
and pregnancy?  Any first-hand experience would be appreciated too. Thanks,

Lisa
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From: Gerry Phibbs <glasscutter@earthlink.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: lead and pregnancy
Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 02:16:57 +0000
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Organization: International Guild of Glass Artists, Inc
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Can someone tell me of a good resource for information on working with
lead 
and pregnancy?  Any first-hand experience would be appreciated too. Thanks,

Lisa
----

Hi Lisa,
  About the simplest answer is "don't".  Lead contamination is such a
potential hazard, that I'm not sure anyone should knowingly put
themselves or their unborn children at any risk. It would seem rather a
"zero tolerance" sort of personal issue.  I can't provide you with any
"first-hand" experience, as that's rather biologically impossible.  But
I will suggest if you really want specific recommendations and input,
ask Monona Rossol, of ACTS (Art, Craft, Theater Safety), who is one of
the few industrial hygienists in this county (or any country) who
specializes in the area of glass safety issues.
  One of Monona's email addresses is: acts@caseweb.com, feel free to
drop her a line.  I suspect that you'll get quite a bit of input, which
will boil down to "don't expose yourself to lead at all, while
pregnant", and "don't expose yourself to lead even if you aren't pregnant!"
  Peace  -Gerry
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X-Path: sympatico.ca!tandg.higson
From: Anthony Higson <tandg.higson@sympatico.ca>
To: Don Udey <jazz-sni@springnet1.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Pricing
Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 10:09:39 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@l.pop50.bellglobal.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Hi Don
I made some Pikachus this past holiday season.  Since they were from yellow
glass ,which is more costly ,I charged $18 Canadian for them . They were
about  8" tall and 4"
wide. I hope this helps
Regards
Gillian

Don Udey wrote:

> Hi All...
>
> I need your input...I made a Pokemon character for a little boy that his
> mother works with me.  Other mothers want to purchase one for their
> kids.  How do I go about pricing these little characters?  I've never
> sold any glass art before and I want to be fair.  What rule-of-thumb do
> you use when pricing your products?...Since I use such a small amount of
> one color, how do I figure on the cost for the 2nd, 3rd etc.  A lot of
> the glass I used was left overs.    Thanks!  You can e-mail me at
> jazz-sni@springnet1.com if you want.
>
> Linda U
>
> ----
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Subject: removing patina
Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 12:34:09 EST
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Greetings All,
while we are on the topic of patina...hobbiest here; have 2 panels that I 
would like to re frame & either remove old patina or can just reapply a new 
coat of patina  to spruce them up & re polish everything. tia  Karlene
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In a message dated 2/7/00 6:06:45 PM, edupjohn@slonet.org writes:

>One
>thing occurred to me would be to wonder if the colored paint would take
>the heat from the solder and soldering iron.

I'd try spray lacquer or automotive paint, or Krylon at the very least. All 
of those dry to a really hard finish and are heat resistant. In fact, a local 
SG supplier told me a while back that commercially available "mirror edge 
sealant" is basically regular clear spray lacquer with a fancy name and a 
fancier price tag.


Sparks
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: LMCCDC@aol.com
Subject: Re: lead and pregnancy
Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 16:47:02 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
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My view (a man's view, of course!) is that you do not bring the two into
contact at all until well after you have stopped feeding the child.
The foetus absorbs the lead from the mother's blood stream very easily.
The lead has great and bad effects.  Clothing and other studio apparel
brings lead into the home, so change it and wash it elsewhere.
Steve
In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, LMCCDC@aol.com writes
>Can someone tell me of a good resource for information on working with lead 
>and pregnancy?  Any first-hand experience would be appreciated too. Thanks,
>
>Lisa
>----
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>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Don Udey <jazz-sni@springnet1.com>
Subject: Re: Pricing
Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 16:41:06 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
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if the glass is free, then your time is the important element. I usually
price by the piece.

Steve

In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, Don Udey <jazz-sni@springnet1.com> writes
>Hi All...
>
>I need your input...I made a Pokemon character for a little boy that his
>mother works with me.  Other mothers want to purchase one for their
>kids.  How do I go about pricing these little characters?  I've never
>sold any glass art before and I want to be fair.  What rule-of-thumb do
>you use when pricing your products?...Since I use such a small amount of
>one color, how do I figure on the cost for the 2nd, 3rd etc.  A lot of
>the glass I used was left overs.    Thanks!  You can e-mail me at
>jazz-sni@springnet1.com if you want.
>
>
>Linda U
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From: pat jellison <jellison@ceps.nasm.edu>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Pricing
Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 15:22:37 -0500
Message-ID: <38A07B0D.CF841CDE@ceps.nasm.edu>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
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Are there commercial patterns for Pokemon characters for glass?

If so, I'd love to have a reference to the source.

PJ Jellison
jellison@ceps.nasm.edu



> >Hi All...
> >
> >I need your input...I made a Pokemon character for a little boy that his
> >mother works with me.  Other mothers want to purchase one for their
> >kids.  How do I go about pricing these little characters?  I've never
> >sold any glass art before and I want to be fair.  What rule-of-thumb do
> >you use when pricing your products?...Since I use such a small amount of
> >one color, how do I figure on the cost for the 2nd, 3rd etc.  A lot of
> >the glass I used was left overs.    Thanks!  You can e-mail me at
> >jazz-sni@springnet1.com if you want.
> >
> >
> >Linda U
>
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X-Path: OREGON.UOREGON.EDU!soleim
From: Sherrie Soleim <soleim@OREGON.UOREGON.EDU>
To: Stained Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Pricing
Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 13:52:35 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Organization: oregon.uoregon.edu
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And how do you compute your final price?  I'm just a hobbyist but would like to branch out
a bit and try to sell some.  I'm currently working on a piece that is about 32" by 22".
I've been keeping track of the amount of time I am working on it to help me when I get to
trying to set a price.  Do you have any kind of formula that you use to compute a selling
price?  Like $X * size + $X * time spent + % for profit or something like that?  Just
curious where to begin to figure a fair price.

Sherrie

Steve Richard wrote:

> if the glass is free, then your time is the important element. I usually
> price by the piece.
>
> Steve
>

--
<><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>
Sherrie L. Soleim
University of Oregon
Library Personnel Services
soleim@oregon.uoregon.edu
<><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>
"To succeed in politics, it is often
necessary to rise above your principles."


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From: Stephanie N Larson <pennyante@juno.com>
To: s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: Re: Pricing
Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 12:17:12 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Sounds great, but I'm never sure what to charge...I've been thinking $5
per each cut piece, but is that fair? Sometimes, with complicated
patterns (like butterfly wings) I feel like I'm  overcharging so I feel
guilty and cut the price two-thirds. Is there a good formula you use to
figure prices, even approximately?
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X-Path: fn3.freenet.tlh.fl.us!gonzalj
From: Jim Gonzalez <gonzalj@freenet.tlh.fl.us>
To: LMCCDC@aol.com
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: lead and pregnancy
Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 15:56:58 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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On Mon, 7 Feb 2000 LMCCDC@aol.com wrote:
> Can someone tell me of a good resource for information on working with lead 
> and pregnancy?  Any first-hand experience would be appreciated too. Thanks,
> 
> Lisa

There has been a lot written on Bungi on this very subject.  I just
scanned through the Bungi archives and extracted the posts on this
subject.  I placed the information on this web page:

http://freenet.buffalo.edu/~ce323/pregnancy.txt

You will find that the file contains mostly posts that Monona Rossol has
made to Bungi over the years.  In addition there is first hand
experience from Jenna Meredith-Sanders the child of a mother who did SG 
and the mother of a child while she did SG.  For all the expectant mothers
(and future mothers) this should make informative reading.

These are NOT my opinions but the opinions of others which I have 
extracted from the Bungi archives.

Jim

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From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Stephanie N Larson <pennyante@juno.com>
Subject: Re: Pricing
Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 21:16:42 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<20000208.121713.-488213.1.pennyante@juno.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Stephanie,
Remember, I am in the UK so prices don't mean the same as in the USofA.

I can do a flat copper foiled piece at the rate of 4-5 pieces per hour
averaged over the whole project, depending on complexity.  If I have
"free" glass, then it is only the labour that I need to consider.  But
if I am doing a number of repeats, I will not be using only scrap glass,
so it must be calculated too.  So here are my rules of thumb.

        Decide how much you want to be paid per hour (or how much you
are worth) and divide that by the work rate.  If you want 20 dollars per
hour, then 4 -5 dollars per piece is OK for the labour.  Remember your
hourly rate includes overheads, heat, light, taxes, etc.
        I calculate the area of the piece/project and add 75% for waste.
Then I average the cost of the glass and do the arithmetic to get the
cost of the glass.  (You will need to do this, as with several copies,
the glass will no longer be scrap; you will have to get into your
stock).
        Add these two figures together to get the price per piece.  This
will be a wholesale price, not a retail price.  Retailers routinely add
100% to the wholesale cost.
        Don't undersell yourself.
        Also (taken from a discussion on the list last year) remember to
tell your friends how much the item will cost before you start.  This
way, your friends can say, sorry that is too much for me just now; or
great! go ahead.  Saves problems later.
        Sometimes when doing a project for a friend, I take my material
costs and overhead rate, but don't charge for labour.

It is important to keep records of your work, so you can judge how much
a project will cost before you start.  It is after keeping records for a
couple of years that I can say that I work at 4-5 pieces for flat copper
foil, and 3-4 for 3-D foiled pieces.  My work rate for leaded glass is
about 5-6 pieces per hour.  If you want painted work, it is down to
about 1/2 to 1 piece per hour plus kiln time.
        The records should indicate the nature of the project (a drawing
reference or sketch is helpful here), the area, the number of pieces,
the materials used and area of glass used and scrapped, the time taken
in the various stages (glass selection, pattern development, glass
cutting, foiling, soldering, fininshing) and the elapsed time taken (so
you can predict delivery dates in the future).

Hope this is of some help.
Steve

In message <20000208.121713.-488213.1.pennyante@juno.com>, Stephanie N
Larson <pennyante@juno.com> writes
>Sounds great, but I'm never sure what to charge...I've been thinking $5
>per each cut piece, but is that fair? Sometimes, with complicated
>patterns (like butterfly wings) I feel like I'm  overcharging so I feel
>guilty and cut the price two-thirds. Is there a good formula you use to
>figure prices, even approximately?

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
----
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From owner-glass Tue Feb  8 15:32:14 2000
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X-Path: ix.netcom.com!gunnx4
From: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@ix.netcom.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: lead and pregnancy
Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 17:06:26 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

I wont pretend to know half as much as Steve...but...

I have my blood lead level checked 2 X's a year.  I just had it checked
again last week.  I dont have the results of that test, but the test
prior my lead level was 3.  That's *low*.

If that level changes to a higher number, I know that I have to take
more precautions than I currently take.  If it doesnt change, or it
decreases, I know Im taking care of myself.

They dont consider me to have anywhere near an elevated lead level, my
sons lead level was higher from our living in an old house than mine is
working with lead on a daily basis.

If you take proper precautions, you can have a healthy pregnancy and
work in Stained glass.  I didnt touch it while I was pregnant.  But it
can be done.  You have to be careful though.

Just so you know, Im over protective during pregnancy, and YES I QUIT
smoking.  (I just KNOW there are a few people waiting to jump on that
wagon) ;o)

Also, Jenna Sanders might have some info for you since she recently
worked and taught classes during her pregnancy with Owen.  Owen is
precious and healthy, btw.

Suzanne de Tulsa

Steve Richard wrote:
> 
> My view (a man's view, of course!) is that you do not bring the two into
> contact at all until well after you have stopped feeding the child.
> The foetus absorbs the lead from the mother's blood stream very easily.
> The lead has great and bad effects.  Clothing and other studio apparel
> brings lead into the home, so change it and wash it elsewhere.
> Steve
> In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, LMCCDC@aol.com writes
> >Can someone tell me of a good resource for information on working with lead
> >and pregnancy?  Any first-hand experience would be appreciated too. Thanks,
> >
> >Lisa
> >----
> >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> >To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> 
> --
> Steve Richard
> Verrier Art Glass Ltd
> s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
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From owner-glass Tue Feb  8 15:51:35 2000
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: HILLHD1@aol.com
Subject: Re: removing patina
Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 21:18:33 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk

I would use very fine steel wool to remove old patina and then patinate
with the new colour, or leave shiny solder colour.
        If you do not clean the solder of the old patina, the new will
not do its job properly.

Steve
In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, HILLHD1@aol.com writes
>Greetings All,
>while we are on the topic of patina...hobbiest here; have 2 panels that I 
>would like to re frame & either remove old patina or can just reapply a new 
>coat of patina  to spruce them up & re polish everything. tia  Karlene
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
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-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
----
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From owner-glass Tue Feb  8 15:53:14 2000
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X-Path: esatclear.ie!glassman
From: Tony Dutcher <glassman@esatclear.ie>
To: glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: removing patina
Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 22:22:35 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

One way is top use a wire brush, the size used for wire brushing your house
(ext.) before painting, make sure you do not do this inside you house and wear
a respirator, you are making lead dust. This method works great for lead
panels, but not so well on copper foil. A course steel wool will all so work.
good luck,
Tony Dutcher

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From owner-glass Tue Feb  8 16:43:52 2000
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X-Path: ilnk.com!andor
From: "Linda Jo Letscher" <andor@ilnk.com>
To: "Bungi" <Glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: Pricing
Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 18:44:46 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Steve,

I quoted a price for someone last year on a small panel, and promptly forgot
( lost some saved e-mail data that had her estimate on it).  She contacted
me about the panel and I said to her, I don't remember what price I told
you. (silly me) Do you remember the price I told you?  She said I think it
was $90.00.  I said well I am sorry but I know it would not have been that
as I charge $90.00 a square foot and this is at least 2 square feet.  :-)
She said, yea it could have been $180.00........ don't ya just love it?  I
told her if the price was too high I understood maybe she can find someone
to make her panel for that price.  I got the job, and she is happy with her
panel.

Lesson: I print out all my e-mail quotes or anything I do on the computer
now regarding glass.

Linda Jo

-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Stephanie N Larson <pennyante@juno.com>
Date: Tuesday, February 08, 2000 6:40 PM
Subject: Re: Pricing


>Stephanie,
>Remember, I am in the UK so prices don't mean the same as in the USofA.
>
>I can do a flat copper foiled piece at the rate of 4-5 pieces per hour
>averaged over the whole project, depending on complexity.  If I have
>"free" glass, then it is only the labour that I need to consider.  But
>if I am doing a number of repeats, I will not be using only scrap glass,
>so it must be calculated too.  So here are my rules of thumb.
>
>        Decide how much you want to be paid per hour (or how much you
>are worth) and divide that by the work rate.  If you want 20 dollars per
>hour, then 4 -5 dollars per piece is OK for the labour.  Remember your
>hourly rate includes overheads, heat, light, taxes, etc.
>        I calculate the area of the piece/project and add 75% for waste.
>Then I average the cost of the glass and do the arithmetic to get the
>cost of the glass.  (You will need to do this, as with several copies,
>the glass will no longer be scrap; you will have to get into your
>stock).
>        Add these two figures together to get the price per piece.  This
>will be a wholesale price, not a retail price.  Retailers routinely add
>100% to the wholesale cost.
>        Don't undersell yourself.
>        Also (taken from a discussion on the list last year) remember to
>tell your friends how much the item will cost before you start.  This
>way, your friends can say, sorry that is too much for me just now; or
>great! go ahead.  Saves problems later.
>        Sometimes when doing a project for a friend, I take my material
>costs and overhead rate, but don't charge for labour.
>
>It is important to keep records of your work, so you can judge how much
>a project will cost before you start.  It is after keeping records for a
>couple of years that I can say that I work at 4-5 pieces for flat copper
>foil, and 3-4 for 3-D foiled pieces.  My work rate for leaded glass is
>about 5-6 pieces per hour.  If you want painted work, it is down to
>about 1/2 to 1 piece per hour plus kiln time.
>        The records should indicate the nature of the project (a drawing
>reference or sketch is helpful here), the area, the number of pieces,
>the materials used and area of glass used and scrapped, the time taken
>in the various stages (glass selection, pattern development, glass
>cutting, foiling, soldering, fininshing) and the elapsed time taken (so
>you can predict delivery dates in the future).
>
>Hope this is of some help.
>Steve
>
>In message <20000208.121713.-488213.1.pennyante@juno.com>, Stephanie N
>Larson <pennyante@juno.com> writes
>>Sounds great, but I'm never sure what to charge...I've been thinking $5
>>per each cut piece, but is that fair? Sometimes, with complicated
>>patterns (like butterfly wings) I feel like I'm  overcharging so I feel
>>guilty and cut the price two-thirds. Is there a good formula you use to
>>figure prices, even approximately?
>
>--
>Steve Richard
>Verrier Art Glass Ltd
>s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


----
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From owner-glass Tue Feb  8 16:49:34 2000
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X-Path: teleport.com!weaver51
From: "Howard" <weaver51@teleport.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: old bullseye jewels to get rid of and more!
Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 16:17:37 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Organization: weaver51@teleport.com
Precedence: bulk

All orders of 5# have gone out (last went out today).
I have been cleaning up a lot of "STUFF" I absolutely had to have years ago.

I have many 100's of hand-made OLD Bullseye jewels and assorted pressed
glass.

Jewels are keyed to the dragonfly sizes.
Roses, leaves (Maple), corners, and assorted experimental pressed glass.
Most of these were never released to the public, or made for specific
orders.
It will hard/impossible to make up specific dragonfly sets, but I do have a
lot of colors, some opals and some clear. There are many other uses for the
jewels.
Most are on patties and cut apart easily with a cutter.....no need for a
saw.

Also about 50 iridized scarabs from Chicago Art Glass in 2 colors and 2
sizes.

E-mail me privately......I will try to have an approximate inventory and
sizes and colors next week.

weaver51@teleport.com
Elaine and Howard
best lamps on the "net":
http://www.teleport.com/~cbs/howard

----
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To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
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From owner-glass Tue Feb  8 16:52:13 2000
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	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #81 built 2000-Feb-8)
X-Path: ilnk.com!andor
From: "Linda Jo Letscher" <andor@ilnk.com>
To: "Bungi" <Glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: lead and pregnancy
Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 18:46:59 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

How nice of you Jim, thanks.  I am not pregnant or plan to be at this late
date, but it is good information to have as this subject comes up about
every 9 months.... or so.
Linda Jo

-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Gonzalez <gonzalj@freenet.tlh.fl.us>
To: LMCCDC@aol.com <LMCCDC@aol.com>
Date: Tuesday, February 08, 2000 6:45 PM
Subject: Re: lead and pregnancy


>On Mon, 7 Feb 2000 LMCCDC@aol.com wrote:
>> Can someone tell me of a good resource for information on working with
lead
>> and pregnancy?  Any first-hand experience would be appreciated too.
Thanks,
>>
>> Lisa
>
>There has been a lot written on Bungi on this very subject.  I just
>scanned through the Bungi archives and extracted the posts on this
>subject.  I placed the information on this web page:
>
>http://freenet.buffalo.edu/~ce323/pregnancy.txt
>
>You will find that the file contains mostly posts that Monona Rossol has
>made to Bungi over the years.  In addition there is first hand
>experience from Jenna Meredith-Sanders the child of a mother who did SG
>and the mother of a child while she did SG.  For all the expectant mothers
>(and future mothers) this should make informative reading.
>
>These are NOT my opinions but the opinions of others which I have
>extracted from the Bungi archives.
>
>Jim
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


----
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To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
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From owner-glass Tue Feb  8 16:58:23 2000
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X-Path: ix.netcom.com!gunnx4
From: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@ix.netcom.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: lead and pregnancy PS
Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 17:55:53 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk



Ps.

As a mom, whose son briefly had elevated lead levels, I was terrified. 
If I thought it was because of something I had done for myself, not for
him, I would have been devestated.

His lead level was never high enough for them to feel he needed any kind
of therapy.

I didnt do any glass work at all during my pregnancy with him.

We owned a home that was built in 1924.  There was a spot I found that
he liked to put his mouth.  I assume it felt good on his gums.  I
wrapped it with cloth and tied it up with string.  His lead levels
immediately started dropping.

We sold the house, and bought a newer one.

Good luck.

Suzanne
----
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To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
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From owner-glass Tue Feb  8 18:35:04 2000
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X-Path: ilnk.com!andor
From: "Linda Jo Letscher" <andor@ilnk.com>
To: "Bungi" <Glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: Pricing
Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 18:44:46 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Steve,

I quoted a price for someone last year on a small panel, and promptly forgot
( lost some saved e-mail data that had her estimate on it).  She contacted
me about the panel and I said to her, I don't remember what price I told
you. (silly me) Do you remember the price I told you?  She said I think it
was $90.00.  I said well I am sorry but I know it would not have been that
as I charge $90.00 a square foot and this is at least 2 square feet.  :-)
She said, yea it could have been $180.00........ don't ya just love it?  I
told her if the price was too high I understood maybe she can find someone
to make her panel for that price.  I got the job, and she is happy with her
panel.

Lesson: I print out all my e-mail quotes or anything I do on the computer
now regarding glass.

Linda Jo

-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Stephanie N Larson <pennyante@juno.com>
Date: Tuesday, February 08, 2000 6:40 PM
Subject: Re: Pricing


>Stephanie,
>Remember, I am in the UK so prices don't mean the same as in the USofA.
>
>I can do a flat copper foiled piece at the rate of 4-5 pieces per hour
>averaged over the whole project, depending on complexity.  If I have
>"free" glass, then it is only the labour that I need to consider.  But
>if I am doing a number of repeats, I will not be using only scrap glass,
>so it must be calculated too.  So here are my rules of thumb.
>
>        Decide how much you want to be paid per hour (or how much you
>are worth) and divide that by the work rate.  If you want 20 dollars per
>hour, then 4 -5 dollars per piece is OK for the labour.  Remember your
>hourly rate includes overheads, heat, light, taxes, etc.
>        I calculate the area of the piece/project and add 75% for waste.
>Then I average the cost of the glass and do the arithmetic to get the
>cost of the glass.  (You will need to do this, as with several copies,
>the glass will no longer be scrap; you will have to get into your
>stock).
>        Add these two figures together to get the price per piece.  This
>will be a wholesale price, not a retail price.  Retailers routinely add
>100% to the wholesale cost.
>        Don't undersell yourself.
>        Also (taken from a discussion on the list last year) remember to
>tell your friends how much the item will cost before you start.  This
>way, your friends can say, sorry that is too much for me just now; or
>great! go ahead.  Saves problems later.
>        Sometimes when doing a project for a friend, I take my material
>costs and overhead rate, but don't charge for labour.
>
>It is important to keep records of your work, so you can judge how much
>a project will cost before you start.  It is after keeping records for a
>couple of years that I can say that I work at 4-5 pieces for flat copper
>foil, and 3-4 for 3-D foiled pieces.  My work rate for leaded glass is
>about 5-6 pieces per hour.  If you want painted work, it is down to
>about 1/2 to 1 piece per hour plus kiln time.
>        The records should indicate the nature of the project (a drawing
>reference or sketch is helpful here), the area, the number of pieces,
>the materials used and area of glass used and scrapped, the time taken
>in the various stages (glass selection, pattern development, glass
>cutting, foiling, soldering, fininshing) and the elapsed time taken (so
>you can predict delivery dates in the future).
>
>Hope this is of some help.
>Steve
>
>In message <20000208.121713.-488213.1.pennyante@juno.com>, Stephanie N
>Larson <pennyante@juno.com> writes
>>Sounds great, but I'm never sure what to charge...I've been thinking $5
>>per each cut piece, but is that fair? Sometimes, with complicated
>>patterns (like butterfly wings) I feel like I'm  overcharging so I feel
>>guilty and cut the price two-thirds. Is there a good formula you use to
>>figure prices, even approximately?
>
>--
>Steve Richard
>Verrier Art Glass Ltd
>s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


----
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To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Tue Feb  8 18:47:45 2000
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X-Path: teleport.com!weaver51
From: "Howard" <weaver51@teleport.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: old bullseye jewels to get rid of and more!
Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 16:17:37 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Organization: weaver51@teleport.com
Precedence: bulk

All orders of 5# have gone out (last went out today).
I have been cleaning up a lot of "STUFF" I absolutely had to have years ago.

I have many 100's of hand-made OLD Bullseye jewels and assorted pressed
glass.

Jewels are keyed to the dragonfly sizes.
Roses, leaves (Maple), corners, and assorted experimental pressed glass.
Most of these were never released to the public, or made for specific
orders.
It will hard/impossible to make up specific dragonfly sets, but I do have a
lot of colors, some opals and some clear. There are many other uses for the
jewels.
Most are on patties and cut apart easily with a cutter.....no need for a
saw.

Also about 50 iridized scarabs from Chicago Art Glass in 2 colors and 2
sizes.

E-mail me privately......I will try to have an approximate inventory and
sizes and colors next week.

weaver51@teleport.com
Elaine and Howard
best lamps on the "net":
http://www.teleport.com/~cbs/howard

----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Tue Feb  8 18:54:07 2000
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Received: by daver.bungi.com
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	for rglass-42; Tue, 8 Feb 2000 15:54:51 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #81 built 2000-Feb-8)
X-Path: ilnk.com!andor
From: "Linda Jo Letscher" <andor@ilnk.com>
To: "Bungi" <Glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: lead and pregnancy
Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 18:46:59 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

How nice of you Jim, thanks.  I am not pregnant or plan to be at this late
date, but it is good information to have as this subject comes up about
every 9 months.... or so.
Linda Jo

-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Gonzalez <gonzalj@freenet.tlh.fl.us>
To: LMCCDC@aol.com <LMCCDC@aol.com>
Date: Tuesday, February 08, 2000 6:45 PM
Subject: Re: lead and pregnancy


>On Mon, 7 Feb 2000 LMCCDC@aol.com wrote:
>> Can someone tell me of a good resource for information on working with
lead
>> and pregnancy?  Any first-hand experience would be appreciated too.
Thanks,
>>
>> Lisa
>
>There has been a lot written on Bungi on this very subject.  I just
>scanned through the Bungi archives and extracted the posts on this
>subject.  I placed the information on this web page:
>
>http://freenet.buffalo.edu/~ce323/pregnancy.txt
>
>You will find that the file contains mostly posts that Monona Rossol has
>made to Bungi over the years.  In addition there is first hand
>experience from Jenna Meredith-Sanders the child of a mother who did SG
>and the mother of a child while she did SG.  For all the expectant mothers
>(and future mothers) this should make informative reading.
>
>These are NOT my opinions but the opinions of others which I have
>extracted from the Bungi archives.
>
>Jim
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Tue Feb  8 19:10:13 2000
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	for rglass-42; Tue, 8 Feb 2000 15:56:43 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #81 built 2000-Feb-8)
X-Path: ix.netcom.com!gunnx4
From: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@ix.netcom.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: lead and pregnancy PS
Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 17:55:53 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk



Ps.

As a mom, whose son briefly had elevated lead levels, I was terrified. 
If I thought it was because of something I had done for myself, not for
him, I would have been devestated.

His lead level was never high enough for them to feel he needed any kind
of therapy.

I didnt do any glass work at all during my pregnancy with him.

We owned a home that was built in 1924.  There was a spot I found that
he liked to put his mouth.  I assume it felt good on his gums.  I
wrapped it with cloth and tied it up with string.  His lead levels
immediately started dropping.

We sold the house, and bought a newer one.

Good luck.

Suzanne
----
For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Tue Feb  8 19:10:43 2000
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	for rglass-42; Tue, 8 Feb 2000 16:32:17 -0800 (PST)
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X-Path: aol.com!RIFCLAN
From: RIFCLAN@aol.com
To: Glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Lead free solder
Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 19:30:41 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hi, 
I'm new to stained glass. I've made a few windows - mostly copper foil. 
Before I got pregnant and had twins, I cut and ground the glass for a window 
( about 450 pieces ).  The babies are 7 months old and I'm still nursing 
them. The shop owner where I buy my supplies suggested that I use lead - free 
solder, however she said that it is difficult to work with. Does anyone have 
any experience with lead-free solder? 
Thanks for any advice anyone may have
April 
----
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From owner-glass Tue Feb  8 22:31:53 2000
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From: Don Udey <jazz-sni@springnet1.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Pricing
Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 19:42:24 -0600
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Thanks to all  who gave me input on pricing my glass pieces!  It was
greatly appreciated!

                                                                Linda U

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From: "Annie" <anniekg@netconnect.com.au>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Pokemon pictures was Pricing
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 12:13:36 +1100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<38A07B0D.CF841CDE@ceps.nasm.edu>>
Precedence: bulk

I don't know about patterns already made for glass but if you go to the
www.pokemon.com site and click on the menu option "pokedex" you can get
pictures and info for each little pokemon.  They are very basic cartoon
pictures and I don't think they would be difficult to make patterns from.
Either that or Kmart (in Australia anyway) sells an absolute miriad of
pokemon cartoon and sticker books.
Cheers
Annie


----- Original Message -----
From: pat jellison <jellison@ceps.nasm.edu>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 09, 2000 7:22 AM
Subject: Re: Pricing


> Are there commercial patterns for Pokemon characters for glass?
>
> If so, I'd love to have a reference to the source.
>
> PJ Jellison
> jellison@ceps.nasm.edu


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Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 19:42:24 -0600
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Thanks to all  who gave me input on pricing my glass pieces!  It was
greatly appreciated!

                                                                Linda U

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From owner-glass Wed Feb  9 00:10:38 2000
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From: Rbytl@aol.com
To: soleim@OREGON.UOREGON.EDU, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: Pricing
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 02:13:35 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hi,

There will be as many pricing methods as there are producers of stained glass 
art, but the square ft. method works best for me because:
        I find timekeeping a chore I detest, and often as a result, I don't 
keep time.
        
        When beginning, it will take you more time to craft a piece, than 
someone with            more experience, so your price based on time, isn't 
competitive.

        I usually buy glass, caming, etc, by the sq. or lineal ft., and so 
can equate costs
        to the same unit of pricing.

As a result. I charge for my work (except for restoration,repair), at the 
rate of $100./sq. ft. Plus a design charge for custom work of $8.00/ sq. ft., 
which covers my costs of the outside design / patterning service I use, plus 
a little for my time.

So, using my method, assuming no design charge, I' d price it thus:

22x32=704 sq. in, devided 144 (in/sq. ft.) =4.88 sq. ft.

$100/sq. ft. x 4.88 =$488.00

I try to keep it as simple as possible

Richard
Richard Callahan Stained Glass
Las Vegas, NV
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From owner-glass Wed Feb  9 00:10:41 2000
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X-Path: ceps.nasm.edu!jellison
From: Pat Jellison <jellison@ceps.nasm.edu>
To: Tony Dutcher <glassman@esatclear.ie>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Mirrors (a question while we're on the subject)
Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 19:58:47 -0500
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References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
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Tony,

I just wanted to say "Thank You" for your answer to my question!
I shall try your method and get those corners rounded off (and
then I shall rest easier when my son brushes his teeth in front
of that cabinet!).  Thank you for taking the time to answer. 

Cheers,
PJ Jellison

Tony Dutcher wrote:
> 
> One way that we used to edge mirrors that were too big for the wet
> sander was by hand. What you need is a 4x7x 3/8 piece of plywood and a
> sheet of 220 wet/dry sandpaper. Wrap the sandpaper around the plywood
> and staple the reverse side. You will also need a spray bottle of water
> to keep the mirror and the sandpaper very wet as you are sanding. Start
> by taking the edge of the silvered side of the mirror by sanding the
> back side. Sand from the interior of the mirror (even though you are
> only hitting the edge) outwards, this will avoid chipping the glass.
> once you have the backing taken back a little you can be more aggressive
> with the sandpaper. It should take you about ten minutes to get a radius
> of a quarter, as a precaution you might want to put a sheet of contact
> paper over the back of the mirror just to keep you from scratching it,
> its really easy to do.
> 
> ----
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From owner-glass Wed Feb  9 03:37:01 2000
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X-Path: ix.netcom.com!gunnx4
From: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@ix.netcom.com>
To: Tony Dutcher <glassman@esatclear.ie>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: removing patina
Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 19:30:24 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
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A green scubby works for me, and wont scratch your glass.

Suzanne

Tony Dutcher wrote:
> 
> One way is top use a wire brush, the size used for wire brushing your house
> (ext.) before painting, make sure you do not do this inside you house and wear
> a respirator, you are making lead dust. This method works great for lead
> panels, but not so well on copper foil. A course steel wool will all so work.
> good luck,
> Tony Dutcher
> 
> ----
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From owner-glass Wed Feb  9 07:02:23 2000
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From: Dee Thompson <deethom@erols.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: removing patina
Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 09:40:29 -0500
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Yes, yes on those scrubbies!  I get 'em by the BIG bag.
Dee

At 07:30 PM 2/8/00 -0600, you wrote:
>A green scubby works for me, and wont scratch your glass.
>
>Suzanne
>
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From owner-glass Wed Feb  9 08:03:02 2000
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X-Path: aol.com!Beveler4
From: Beveler4@aol.com
To: Glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: for the birds
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 10:51:46 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Heres something you won't see or hear about everyday:
I was just getting a piece of glass from my bins and low and behold a bird had done its duty on the glass,probably in transport from the distributor.But here is the kicker,it had actually eaten into and etched the glass where ever it had touched.It was as if someone had poured acid onto the glass.What are we feeding these guys????!!!!Thought you might get a kick out of this it sure through me for a loop.  Beveler4 (Stan)
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From owner-glass Wed Feb  9 08:14:18 2000
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X-Path: arvotek.net!bigcreek
From: Wayne Parks <bigcreek@arvotek.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Pokemon pictures was Pricing
Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 10:26:16 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Organization: Big Creek Studio
Precedence: bulk

There is one thing that I have not seen in this discussion and that is
the copyright issue of producing and selling something that is so hotly
desirable as this pokemon phenom. I had heard of a case where someone
was making Disney characters and had to stop because they had a law suit
slapped on them, by Disney for selling unlicensed merchandise. I would
think that the same would be true in this case. My understanding is that
it is ok to make 'one'  for your own use but to make for others and
especially if selling is a big no no.
GlasDesign at one time, had a pattern book out call "Mickey and Friends"
which contained 40 patterns of Disney characters. It clearly states on
the back, and I quote, "All rights reserved. No part of this publication
may be reproduced, stored or transmitted in any form or by any means,
electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, without the prior
permission of the copyright owner, with exception of reproduction of the
pattern for personal use only." --Copyright Disney--
You might say who would know, but these corporations have eyes
everywhere protecting their interests and remember that this is an open
forum!  We all like to protect our designs so in my opinion we must
respect others. Just my 2 cents worth.
Regards,
Wayne




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From owner-glass Wed Feb  9 09:13:48 2000
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X-Path: juno.com!pennyante
From: Stephanie N Larson <pennyante@juno.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: re: pricing
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 08:36:20 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Thanks so much for the input, guys. You all seem to agree on pricing
"structures" helping to keep pricing simple. I will definitely be
applying those to my future projects and, yes, I'll try not to feel
guilty about earning my worth!!! Thanks again!
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From owner-glass Wed Feb  9 09:32:38 2000
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From: pat jellison <jellison@ceps.nasm.edu>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Pokemon pictures was Pricing
Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 12:19:37 -0500
Message-ID: <38A1A1A9.E1BFF218@ceps.nasm.edu>
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Thank you, Wayne. This is the issue that I've been concerned 
about with regard to selling such things, but I'd been mulling 
over how to bring it up gently.  It seems to me that the issue 
is not just whether you get caught, but in doing what is right 
and refraining from doing what is wrong, ethically or legally.  
In my humble opinion it matters not a whit whether the copyright 
holder is a mega-corporation or an individual artist -- it is 
still their intellectual property.  (That's why I asked if there 
were commercial patterns available, i.e. licensed ones that I 
could legally/ethically use in this way.)

I've fought this battle over and over with musicians that I
work with, who are addicted to photocopying music.  They say
things like,"but it's for the church" and I say, "all the more
reason to take the moral high ground."  In both music and
SG art, it's the right thing to do, uncomfortable and nuisance
though it may be. Peace!

Humbly,
PJ Jellison
> 
> Wayne Parks wrote:
> >
> > There is one thing that I have not seen in this discussion and that is
> > the copyright issue of producing and selling something that is so hotly
> > desirable as this pokemon phenom. I had heard of a case where someone
> > was making Disney characters and had to stop because they had a law suit
> > slapped on them, by Disney for selling unlicensed merchandise. I would
> > think that the same would be true in this case. My understanding is that
> > it is ok to make 'one'  for your own use but to make for others and
> > especially if selling is a big no no.
> > GlasDesign at one time, had a pattern book out call "Mickey and Friends"
> > which contained 40 patterns of Disney characters. It clearly states on
> > the back, and I quote, "All rights reserved. No part of this publication
> > may be reproduced, stored or transmitted in any form or by any means,
> > electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, without the prior
> > permission of the copyright owner, with exception of reproduction of the
> > pattern for personal use only." --Copyright Disney--
> > You might say who would know, but these corporations have eyes
> > everywhere protecting their interests and remember that this is an open
> > forum!  We all like to protect our designs so in my opinion we must
> > respect others. Just my 2 cents worth.
> > Regards,
> > Wayne
> >
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From owner-glass Wed Feb  9 09:43:55 2000
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X-Path: sympatico.ca!tandg.higson
From: Anthony Higson <tandg.higson@sympatico.ca>
To: RIFCLAN@aol.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Lead free solder
Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 12:29:54 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@l.pop50.bellglobal.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Hi
I've used lead-free solder when I make a bowl especially.  It is tricky because
it needs a hotter iron then 60/40. At the moment I am using a 900 degree tip on
my iron,but that isn't really hot enough because the solder freezes up before I
can smooth it out sometimes.
It is just more time consuming  tan 60/40 .So perhaps I should get a hotter tip
for my iron hmmmmm.
Regards
Gillian

RIFCLAN@aol.com wrote:

> Hi,
> I'm new to stained glass. I've made a few windows - mostly copper foil.
> Before I got pregnant and had twins, I cut and ground the glass for a window
> ( about 450 pieces ).  The babies are 7 months old and I'm still nursing
> them. The shop owner where I buy my supplies suggested that I use lead - free
> solder, however she said that it is difficult to work with. Does anyone have
> any experience with lead-free solder?
> Thanks for any advice anyone may have
> April
> ----
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From owner-glass Wed Feb  9 09:51:01 2000
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From: Anthony Higson <tandg.higson@sympatico.ca>
To: Linda Jo Letscher <andor@ilnk.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Pricing
Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 12:32:45 -0600
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References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@l.pop50.bellglobal.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Hi Linda
People try to take advantage of naivete sometimes don't they? That has happened
to me ,so now I make sure I have pen and paper when talking price,even if its
the back of a receipt,and then I enter it into my work book.
Regards
Gillian

Linda Jo Letscher wrote:

> Steve,
>
> I quoted a price for someone last year on a small panel, and promptly forgot
> ( lost some saved e-mail data that had her estimate on it).  She contacted
> me about the panel and I said to her, I don't remember what price I told
> you. (silly me) Do you remember the price I told you?  She said I think it
> was $90.00.  I said well I am sorry but I know it would not have been that
> as I charge $90.00 a square foot and this is at least 2 square feet.  :-)
> She said, yea it could have been $180.00........ don't ya just love it?  I
> told her if the price was too high I understood maybe she can find someone
> to make her panel for that price.  I got the job, and she is happy with her
> panel.
>
> Lesson: I print out all my e-mail quotes or anything I do on the computer
> now regarding glass.
>
> Linda Jo
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
> To: Stephanie N Larson <pennyante@juno.com>
> Date: Tuesday, February 08, 2000 6:40 PM
> Subject: Re: Pricing
>
> >Stephanie,
> >Remember, I am in the UK so prices don't mean the same as in the USofA.
> >
> >I can do a flat copper foiled piece at the rate of 4-5 pieces per hour
> >averaged over the whole project, depending on complexity.  If I have
> >"free" glass, then it is only the labour that I need to consider.  But
> >if I am doing a number of repeats, I will not be using only scrap glass,
> >so it must be calculated too.  So here are my rules of thumb.
> >
> >        Decide how much you want to be paid per hour (or how much you
> >are worth) and divide that by the work rate.  If you want 20 dollars per
> >hour, then 4 -5 dollars per piece is OK for the labour.  Remember your
> >hourly rate includes overheads, heat, light, taxes, etc.
> >        I calculate the area of the piece/project and add 75% for waste.
> >Then I average the cost of the glass and do the arithmetic to get the
> >cost of the glass.  (You will need to do this, as with several copies,
> >the glass will no longer be scrap; you will have to get into your
> >stock).
> >        Add these two figures together to get the price per piece.  This
> >will be a wholesale price, not a retail price.  Retailers routinely add
> >100% to the wholesale cost.
> >        Don't undersell yourself.
> >        Also (taken from a discussion on the list last year) remember to
> >tell your friends how much the item will cost before you start.  This
> >way, your friends can say, sorry that is too much for me just now; or
> >great! go ahead.  Saves problems later.
> >        Sometimes when doing a project for a friend, I take my material
> >costs and overhead rate, but don't charge for labour.
> >
> >It is important to keep records of your work, so you can judge how much
> >a project will cost before you start.  It is after keeping records for a
> >couple of years that I can say that I work at 4-5 pieces for flat copper
> >foil, and 3-4 for 3-D foiled pieces.  My work rate for leaded glass is
> >about 5-6 pieces per hour.  If you want painted work, it is down to
> >about 1/2 to 1 piece per hour plus kiln time.
> >        The records should indicate the nature of the project (a drawing
> >reference or sketch is helpful here), the area, the number of pieces,
> >the materials used and area of glass used and scrapped, the time taken
> >in the various stages (glass selection, pattern development, glass
> >cutting, foiling, soldering, fininshing) and the elapsed time taken (so
> >you can predict delivery dates in the future).
> >
> >Hope this is of some help.
> >Steve
> >
> >In message <20000208.121713.-488213.1.pennyante@juno.com>, Stephanie N
> >Larson <pennyante@juno.com> writes
> >>Sounds great, but I'm never sure what to charge...I've been thinking $5
> >>per each cut piece, but is that fair? Sometimes, with complicated
> >>patterns (like butterfly wings) I feel like I'm  overcharging so I feel
> >>guilty and cut the price two-thirds. Is there a good formula you use to
> >>figure prices, even approximately?
> >
> >--
> >Steve Richard
> >Verrier Art Glass Ltd
> >s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
> >----
> >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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> >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
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From owner-glass Wed Feb  9 10:02:49 2000
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X-Path: stainedglass.co.uk!studio
From: "studio@stainedglass.co.uk" <studio@stainedglass.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Copyrights/Pokemon
Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 17:36:16 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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At 10:26 09/02/00 -0500, Wayne wrote:
>There is one thing that I have not seen in this discussion and that is
>the copyright issue of producing and selling something that is so hotly
>desirable as this pokemon phenom. I had heard of a case where someone
>was making Disney characters and had to stop because they had a law suit
>slapped on them, by Disney for selling unlicensed merchandise. 

Yes Disney have their spies everywhere - even over here!
One of my customers was decorating mirrors with painted (imitation) stained
glass cartoon characters and her best sellers were disney characters.  She
only sold through one small gift shop - probably 3 or 4 a week maximum.
But she was contacted by Disney and threatened with a law suit - the
alternative to stopping using their cartoon figures was to pay them several
thousand pounds a year for a licence to make a relatively small number of
mirrors - a few hundred items if I recell correctly.
Needless to say she switched to inventing her own characters instead.
But how the heck did they find out?
Regards
Elizabeth in Bournemouth
http://www.stainedglass.co.uk
Bournemouth Stained Glass
http://www.stainedglass.co.uk

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From owner-glass Wed Feb  9 10:17:08 2000
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X-Path: GSA-ORSP.CROWN.NWU.EDU!kaye
From: "Kaye Sodt" <kaye@GSA-ORSP.CROWN.NWU.EDU>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Pokemon pictures 
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 11:26:04 CST 6CDT
Message-ID: <200002091727.LAA22910@pineyard.acns.nwu.edu>
Organization: GSA-ORSP
Precedence: bulk

Thanks, Wayne.  I was surprised nobody had raised the copyright 
issue and was about to do so myself.  You did a better job of it 
than I would have.

Kaye
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From owner-glass Wed Feb  9 10:33:54 2000
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From:  <ijos@yahoo.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Who`s your friend in the picture?
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 13:13:07
Message-ID: <484.263533.864894@yahoo.com>
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<HTML><FONT  SIZE=3 PTSIZE=10><B>PURE PENETRATION<BR>
>XXX Teens of the Net<<BR>
</FONT><FONT  SIZE=4 PTSIZE=11><A HREF="http://198.78.142.6/mo/biensie/index.html">CLICK HERE TO ENTER</A></FONT><FONT  SIZE=3 PTSIZE=10><BR>
</HTML>
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From owner-glass Wed Feb  9 10:46:35 2000
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X-Path: aol.com!Witchdoc3
From: Witchdoc3@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: for the birds
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 13:26:11 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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In a message dated 2/9/00 11:03:41 AM, Beveler4@aol.com writes:

>a bird had done its duty on the glass, [...]
>here is the kicker,it had actually eaten into and etched the glass where
>ever it had touched. It was as if someone had poured acid onto the glass. 
What
>are we feeding these guys????!!!!

Nothing out of the ordinary...... but consider that your stomach produces a 
hydrochloric acid solution strong enough to burn ulcers in your gut if you're 
unlucky enough to get infected with that nasty H. pylori bacteria (which 
interferes with your stomach lining's ability to produce its protective 
coating), and a bird's does too.

I've seen rot spots from "bird bombs" on the finish of old cars, for instance 
- and then there was my family's old cotton canvas tent that got nailed good 
by blue jays during the height of blackberry season one summer in northern 
California. Too many blackberries also do the same thing to birds as they do 
to people :-\ Not only did we never get the big purple stains out of the 
fabric, but eventually the fabric disintegrated under the stains.


Sparks
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From owner-glass Wed Feb  9 10:53:30 2000
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From: Witchdoc3@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: lead and pregnancy PS
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 13:26:19 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk


In a message dated 2/8/00 7:59:00 PM, gunnx4@ix.netcom.com writes:

>We owned a home that was built in 1924.  There was a spot I found that
>he liked to put his mouth.  I assume it felt good on his gums.  I
>wrapped it with cloth and tied it up with string.  His lead levels
>immediately started dropping.

Lucky young man to have such a smart mom! Friends of one of my brothers back 
in the 70s didn't catch on as quickly, and their baby daughter ended up with 
facial deformities in addition to brain damage.


Sparks
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From owner-glass Wed Feb  9 11:06:41 2000
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From: Witchdoc3@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: NG...... is bungi stuttering?
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 13:39:15 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Over the last 3 days or so I've been getting 2 copies of about half my bungi 
mail. Is this happening to anyone else?


Sparks
    (not paying by the minute, but concerned about those who are)
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From owner-glass Wed Feb  9 11:23:35 2000
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X-Path: appleonline.net!anne-walker
From: anne walker <anne-walker@appleonline.net>
To: "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Subject: corner lead
Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 18:40:34 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

I want to make a lantern using corner or double lead rather than copper
foil as I think this will make it stronger and neater.  However I cannot
find anyone who has used it before - although have heard that the glass
needs to be bevelled in order for the 2 pieces of glass to meet in the
corner.  Any advice please?  (Would I have to use a special beveller? -
I only have a grinder).

Annie

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From owner-glass Wed Feb  9 11:41:03 2000
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X-Path: ilnk.com!andor
From: "Linda Jo Letscher" <andor@ilnk.com>
To: "Wayne Parks" <bigcreek@arvotek.net>,
Subject: Re: Pokemon pictures 
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 14:06:25 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Wayne,

It has been talked about a lot, probably before you joined the list maybe.
Yes copyright is important, and folks should be very careful when copying
copyrighted artwork.

I don't know if Walter is still on the list, I havne't heard from him in a
long time, but he used to have a retail glass store and had made a copy of
the Florida Gators logo and put it in a stepping stone.  He got a visit one
day from someone that suggested if he didn't want a lawsuit for copywrite
infringement, he had best cease and desist using the logo without permission
from the Universeity and NCAA, or the University of Florida will sue.
Walter said that he didn't have the time or money to fight a lawsuit.

So we have to be careful.  I know that Disney and the NFL, CocaCola are very
proactive in suing people that infringe on their copywrites.  People pay
them big bucks to use those images and they don't take kindly to people just
borrowing them.

I just don't care to take that chance.  The money for attorneys spent
defending ones self could buy a lot of glass.

Linda Jo

-----Original Message-----
From: Wayne Parks <bigcreek@arvotek.net>
To: glass@bungi.com <glass@bungi.com>
Date: Wednesday, February 09, 2000 11:22 AM
Subject: Re: Pokemon pictures was Pricing


>There is one thing that I have not seen in this discussion and that is
>the copyright issue of producing and selling something that is so hotly
>desirable as this pokemon phenom. I had heard of a case where someone
>was making Disney characters and had to stop because they had a law suit
>slapped on them, by Disney for selling unlicensed merchandise. I would
>think that the same would be true in this case. My understanding is that
>it is ok to make 'one'  for your own use but to make for others and
>especially if selling is a big no no.
>GlasDesign at one time, had a pattern book out call "Mickey and Friends"
>which contained 40 patterns of Disney characters. It clearly states on
>the back, and I quote, "All rights reserved. No part of this publication
>may be reproduced, stored or transmitted in any form or by any means,
>electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, without the prior
>permission of the copyright owner, with exception of reproduction of the
>pattern for personal use only." --Copyright Disney--
>You might say who would know, but these corporations have eyes
>everywhere protecting their interests and remember that this is an open
>forum!  We all like to protect our designs so in my opinion we must
>respect others. Just my 2 cents worth.
>Regards,
>Wayne
>
>
>
>
>----
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From owner-glass Wed Feb  9 11:44:00 2000
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X-Path: ilnk.com!andor
From: "Linda Jo Letscher" <andor@ilnk.com>
To: <Rbytl@aol.com>,
Subject: Re: Pricing
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 13:56:17 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Richard,

I have kept track every way under the sun over the years.  One time I even
kept a pad and stop watch to keep exact track of my time.  Exact cost of the
glass for a particular piece, all the foil I used, all the solder and so on.
And you are right it is a pain, but it was a good exercise for me when I
first started out to know what I was putting into a piece.

Like you I now charge $90.00 a square foot.  And if it is going to be
complex, take a lot of art time, a lot of bevels then I adjust accordingly.
And I never lower my price.  I think my time and expertise is worth the
price I give it.  My department store doesn't negotiate a price on a dress
if I ask.

You being in Las Vegas, I am sure there is a lot more money floating around
there, than here in north east Florida.  When I get out to Vegas, I will for
sure stop in a meet you.

Linda Jo
-----Original Message-----
From: Rbytl@aol.com <Rbytl@aol.com>
To: soleim@OREGON.UOREGON.EDU <soleim@OREGON.UOREGON.EDU>; glass@bungi.com
<glass@bungi.com>
Date: Wednesday, February 09, 2000 3:19 AM
Subject: Re: Pricing


>Hi,
>
>There will be as many pricing methods as there are producers of stained
glass
>art, but the square ft. method works best for me because:
>        I find timekeeping a chore I detest, and often as a result, I don't
>keep time.
>
>        When beginning, it will take you more time to craft a piece, than
>someone with            more experience, so your price based on time, isn't
>competitive.
>
>        I usually buy glass, caming, etc, by the sq. or lineal ft., and so
>can equate costs
>        to the same unit of pricing.
>
>As a result. I charge for my work (except for restoration,repair), at the
>rate of $100./sq. ft. Plus a design charge for custom work of $8.00/ sq.
ft.,
>which covers my costs of the outside design / patterning service I use,
plus
>a little for my time.
>
>So, using my method, assuming no design charge, I' d price it thus:
>
>22x32=704 sq. in, devided 144 (in/sq. ft.) =4.88 sq. ft.
>
>$100/sq. ft. x 4.88 =$488.00
>
>I try to keep it as simple as possible
>
>Richard
>Richard Callahan Stained Glass
>Las Vegas, NV
>----
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From owner-glass Wed Feb  9 11:54:30 2000
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X-Path: ilnk.com!andor
From: "Linda Jo Letscher" <andor@ilnk.com>
To: <Beveler4@aol.com>,
Subject: Re: for the birds
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 13:57:53 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Stan,
Wow, guess that bird poop is some caustic stuff.  It does take paint off
cars if you leave it on.
Linda Jo

-----Original Message-----
From: Beveler4@aol.com <Beveler4@aol.com>
To: Glass@bungi.com <Glass@bungi.com>
Date: Wednesday, February 09, 2000 11:11 AM
Subject: for the birds


>Heres something you won't see or hear about everyday:
>I was just getting a piece of glass from my bins and low and behold a bird
had done its duty on the glass,probably in transport from the
distributor.But here is the kicker,it had actually eaten into and etched the
glass where ever it had touched.It was as if someone had poured acid onto
the glass.What are we feeding these guys????!!!!Thought you might get a kick
out of this it sure through me for a loop.  Beveler4 (Stan)
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


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From owner-glass Wed Feb  9 13:18:08 2000
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X-Path: POBox.com!nadinesfolly
From: nadinesfolly@POBox.com
To: Witchdoc3@aol.com,glass@bungi.com
Subject: RE: NG...... is bungi stuttering?
Date: 09 Feb 2000 16:13:22 -0500
Message-ID: <E12IeOt-0002q7-00@smtp01.mrf.mail.rcn.net>
Precedence: bulk

Hi Sparks!

I'm getting all my bungi messages double for
about a week.

Nadine


www.nadinesfolly.com
Nadine's Folly Art Glass
703.724.7489

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From owner-glass Wed Feb  9 13:33:05 2000
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X-Path: juno.com!pennyante
From: Stephanie N Larson <pennyante@juno.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: Re: Copyrights/Pokemon
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 12:54:36 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

On the same subject, I have a friend who owns a small costume rental
shop, about 15 miles away from Disneyland. She had a "purple dinosaur"
and an "oversized Mouse & Mousette". Both costumes were deliberately a
ittle different than the famous characters.  She rented them for private
backyard children's parties only, and they went out maybe 5-7 times a
summer. Within 2-3 months, she got "cease and desist" letters from both
Barney and Disney, and had to sell the costumes immediately. Others in
the immdiate area have rented the same costumes out for years and never
heard a thing. You never can tell...you may get away with it for a while,
but who knows when you'll get caught!

For reasons of self-preservation (ok, and even a few ethics), I make it a
point not to sell anything I know is copyrighted, but I have made a few
Disney characters for friends as gifts. More than a few of these work at
Disney. They always say I should sell these...I just laugh. Being within
25 miles of Disneyland, the market is so saturated with legal & illegal
Disneyana, I don't think I could compete, even if I wanted to! 
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From owner-glass Wed Feb  9 14:03:03 2000
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X-Path: netbridge.net!balloch
From: Shirley Balloch <balloch@netbridge.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: business question
Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 14:04:10 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Organization: Maiden Concepts
Precedence: bulk

Hi group,
I am thinking about being able to accept credit cards.  I get spam all
the time about it.  But I don't trust spam of any type.
Where do I go to apply and how much does it cost?
What are the pitfalls?
What should I try to avoid?
And is it really worth going for?
And is there a set min. dollar sales in a certain time frame?
I mean I am really talking small sales here.  And maybe some months no
sales at all.
Thanks in advance,
Shirley B
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From owner-glass Wed Feb  9 15:03:09 2000
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X-Path: netconnect.com.au!anniekg
From: "Annie" <anniekg@netconnect.com.au>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Copyrights/Pokemon
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 09:49:39 +1100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

http://www.pokemon.com/goods/projectstudio.html

I apologise for raising the copywrite issue in regards to pokemon.  I do
believe strongly in artistic rights when it comes to these sort of things.
I made the mistake of connecting the original question in regards to making
a one off for a friend (or a two off as the case may be) instead of
realising it was for commercial use.  Only a lesser offence I know, maybe
the heat down here is getting to me (114 or 45 degrees in the shade on my
back porch yesterday and we have electricity strikes which means no
airconditioners).  I went back and checked out the pokemon site and the link
above takes you to a licenced product by Nintendo called project studio
which gives you all the stuff you need to make pokemon goodies.  It allows
you to make stickers and necklaces and all sorts of other stuff.  I would
imagine only for personal use of course.

Apologies again.

Cheers

Anne

PS: Could someone please send some of that cooler weather your all talking
about south of the equator. :)

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From owner-glass Wed Feb  9 15:24:01 2000
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From: Stephanie N Larson <pennyante@juno.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: Re: business question
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 14:47:18 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

You know, I set up a credit card system for this place I used to work.
Unless you use them quite a bit, they can be expensive. First they charge
you a percentage based on your $$$ sales (higher if your credit sales are
less than a certain amount) plus a "per charge slip" fee, plus a fee for
every authorization you get. If you will be doing less than $500 or more
per month, it may not be worth it. Give your bank a call; they most
likely handle Mastercard and Visa and can send you some information. If
not, they can surely refer you to someone reputable. We signed up through
Wells Fargo; Union Bank wouldn't handle small sales, only larger accounts
with swiping machines, etc., and over something like $1500/month. It's
been a while; I don't remember the exact amounts, but Wells Fargo charged
something like 4.5% plus all the other fees. Good Luck.
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From owner-glass Wed Feb  9 15:32:59 2000
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Rbytl@aol.com
Subject: Re: Pricing
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 23:15:42 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk

I wish I could get 62.50 UK pounds for each square foot.  It must be a
lot better in the USofA

Steve
In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, Rbytl@aol.com writes
...cut........
>As a result. I charge for my work (except for restoration,repair), at the 
>rate of $100./sq. ft. Plus a design charge for custom work of $8.00/ sq. ft., 
>which covers my costs of the outside design / patterning service I use, plus 
>a little for my time.
>
>So, using my method, assuming no design charge, I' d price it thus:
>
>22x32=704 sq. in, devided 144 (in/sq. ft.) =4.88 sq. ft.
>
>$100/sq. ft. x 4.88 =$488.00
>
>I try to keep it as simple as possible
>
>Richard
>Richard Callahan Stained Glass
>Las Vegas, NV
>----
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-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Wed Feb  9 15:49:48 2000
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X-Path: teleport.com!weaver51
From: "Howard" <weaver51@teleport.com>
To: "Shirley Balloch" <balloch@netbridge.net>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: business question
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 15:09:59 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Organization: weaver51@teleport.com
Precedence: bulk

Have you lost many/any sales that would have gone through?
Do you enjoy paying an extra 3-5% to the cc company?
Would you like to be risk for the purchaser being able to charge back the
sale for any reason?
What is the incentive to "accept a card"?
Will you sell out of your home or on the road or both?
Do you have many customers seeking you out personally?
Do you like waiting for your money?
Do you like EVEN more paperwork...most paper too rough and not absorbent
enough to use for $#@wiping.
IMHO opinion is  more of headache than it is worth.....and I GUESS my meager
products do sell for a little bit more than yours, and I have NEVER felt a
need to "do" CCs.
I explain the easy credit payment plan........100% down and no easy
additional or time payments or interest.

I HOWEVER, live by my CC's and rarely pay by check or cash! I also have
NEVER paid interest and have gotten at least 15 FREE (yes free if you pay
off the card in full EVERY time) flights. I have also charged back stuff and
or orders that I was not satisfied with.....sure gets the merchant's
attention! One cc company offered me $15,000 to  what ever I wanted with the
money with NO cash advance fee, points, no other fees and 30/45 days grace
to repay. I bought a 30 day deposit in my savings account and made about
$80.00 in interest......CC offered it to me for a SECOND time and I did it
again!
enjoy, H

weaver51@teleport.com
Elaine and Howard
best lamps on the "net":
http://www.teleport.com/~cbs/howard

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From owner-glass Wed Feb  9 15:57:14 2000
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X-Path: ilnk.com!andor
From: "Linda Jo Letscher" <andor@ilnk.com>
To: "Bungi" <Glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: Copyrights/Pokemon
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 18:15:33 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Annie,
I don't think any apology is necessary, I think the discussion is of real
value.  It is always good to talk about this stuff, as every time a subject
comes up we all learn something.
Linda Jo

-----Original Message-----
From: Annie <anniekg@netconnect.com.au>
To: glass@bungi.com <glass@bungi.com>
Date: Wednesday, February 09, 2000 6:13 PM
Subject: Re: Copyrights/Pokemon


>http://www.pokemon.com/goods/projectstudio.html
>
>I apologise for raising the copywrite issue in regards to pokemon.  I do
>believe strongly in artistic rights when it comes to these sort of things.
>I made the mistake of connecting the original question in regards to making
>a one off for a friend (or a two off as the case may be) instead of
>realising it was for commercial use.  Only a lesser offence I know, maybe
>the heat down here is getting to me (114 or 45 degrees in the shade on my
>back porch yesterday and we have electricity strikes which means no
>airconditioners).  I went back and checked out the pokemon site and the
link
>above takes you to a licenced product by Nintendo called project studio
>which gives you all the stuff you need to make pokemon goodies.  It allows
>you to make stickers and necklaces and all sorts of other stuff.  I would
>imagine only for personal use of course.
>
>Apologies again.
>
>Cheers
>
>Anne
>
>PS: Could someone please send some of that cooler weather your all talking
>about south of the equator. :)
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


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From owner-glass Wed Feb  9 16:04:14 2000
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X-Path: netbridge.net!balloch
From: Shirley Balloch <balloch@netbridge.net>
To: glass@intrastar.net
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: another business question
Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 15:38:36 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Organization: Maiden Concepts
Precedence: bulk

Hi group,
Howard brought up a good point.  With credit cards the customer can
return the purchase for any reason.
So I mainly want this for ebay sales.  
Do any of you have info/advice on paypal and x.com type payment plans?
I really don't understand: How the service can be free and
                           How can they afford to pay you to join
and                              pay you to get others to join.  
                           And to me this feels like another spam.
On the other hand it seems so convenient to dealers and customers.
It must be the wave of the future, my old age is showing.
Thanks in advance,
Shirley B
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From owner-glass Wed Feb  9 16:33:02 2000
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X-Path: hotmail.com!rQkpe4SD6
From: rQkpe4SD6@hotmail.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Gatewayed mail message
Date: Wed Feb  9 16:02:10 2000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

LAST WILL & TESTAMENT KIT


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Your do it yourself kit contains:

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3)	Very detailed, very easy to follow step by step instructions.
4)	Three page Will Form.
5)	Statement of Wishes.
6)	Personal Information Record.
7)	Funeral Requests.
8)	Notification List.
9)	Document Locator.
10)	Insurance Record.
11)	Report "Everyone Needs a Will"
12)	Helpful tips for preparation of your Will.
13)	COMPLETE LEGAL RESALE RIGHTS TO THIS KIT. 


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The Special Price For this Kit is…..ONLY $3.95 (plus 1.50 Shipping) 

Ronald E. Drozen					
1250 S. Clermont St. #1-204
Denver, Co. 80246	

----
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From owner-glass Wed Feb  9 16:34:16 2000
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X-Path: OREGON.UOREGON.EDU!soleim
From: Sherrie Soleim <soleim@OREGON.UOREGON.EDU>
To: Stained Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Copyrights/Pokemon
Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 16:12:44 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Organization: oregon.uoregon.edu
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I totally agree!  Very good information to have and very appropriate
to the discussion.

Linda Jo Letscher wrote:

> Annie,
> I don't think any apology is necessary, I think the discussion is of real
> value.  It is always good to talk about this stuff, as every time a subject
> comes up we all learn something.
> Linda Jo
>

--
<><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>
Sherrie L. Soleim
University of Oregon
Library Personnel Services
soleim@oregon.uoregon.edu
<><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>
"To succeed in politics, it is often
necessary to rise above your principles."


----
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From owner-glass Wed Feb  9 17:28:30 2000
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X-Path: aol.com!GlasLdy
From: GlasLdy@aol.com
To: balloch@netbridge.net, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: another business question
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 20:15:12 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk


I sell quite a bit on eBay and I don't accept credit cards, so I tell all my 
customers they could use Bidpay.   www.bidpay.com
A person can go there with their credit card and purchase a money order 
written to me for a $5.00 fee.  Bidpay notifies me when their credit card is 
accepted (usually within an hour).  That is when I can ship their purchase.  
Bidpay mails the money order to me usually that night.  They tell me that 
soon they will have a button to put on your site. I have never been 
disappointed with them. I have also used them to purchase items with no 
problems.

I just found another company whom I have never dealt with, but this almost 
sounds better--   www.paypal.com   If you register your CC with them, anyone 
can buy from you with a CC and it is free.  When they make the purchase the 
money goes directly into your CC account.  Now with this one it doesn't have 
to be an auction, you can send any amount to anyone for any reason.  I just 
went to the paypal site and registered my CC and now if anyone here uses it I 
would appreciate you using the URL below...I get $10. and I just got $10. for 
registering.  All money exchanged goes into your account immediately. 
https://secure.paypal.com/refer/pal=glasldy%40aol.com 
Thanks,
Janice
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From owner-glass Wed Feb  9 17:58:22 2000
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X-Path: mail2.nai.net!shad
From: "Family Account" <shad@mail2.nai.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: spelling question for glass term
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 20:42:41 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

I think we've been verbing a noun, so there probably isn't a correct way to
verb it in the past tense.

To be quite proper:  "Applied patina"!
----- Original Message -----
From: Shirley Balloch <balloch@netbridge.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Monday, February 07, 2000 1:53 PM
Subject: spelling question for glass term


> Hi group,
> How do you spell the past tense of patina?  Or is there even such a
> word?
> Thanks in advance.
> Shirley B


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From owner-glass Wed Feb  9 18:06:16 2000
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From: "Family Account" <shad@mail2.nai.net>
To: "glass bungi line" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: NG where to check things out Re: Fw: Important READ,,,,,ng
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 20:35:31 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

One of my favoite sites to check these things is:
http://urbanlegends.miningco.com

It's always fascinating reading, in any case.

Dorothy

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From owner-glass Wed Feb  9 19:07:08 2000
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X-Path: home.com!cecnralph
From: Cecily and Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Subject: Re: NG...... is bungi stuttering?
Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 21:55:01 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Organization: Grendel Studios
Precedence: bulk

Nope - not a bit of it.

Witchdoc3@aol.com wrote:

> Over the last 3 days or so I've been getting 2 copies of about half my bungi
> mail. Is this happening to anyone else?
>
> Sparks
>     (not paying by the minute, but concerned about those who are)
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

--
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************


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From owner-glass Wed Feb  9 19:48:26 2000
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X-Path: home.com!cecnralph
From: Cecily and Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>,
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Subject: [Fwd: another business question]
Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 22:24:50 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Organization: Grendel Studios
Precedence: bulk

Never seen any evaluations of these sites but it is a similar thing to what
shareware software developers use - like Kangi (sp?) and Digital River who
handle the sales for thousands of little guys.  Interesting. - Cecily

GlasLdy@aol.com wrote:

> I sell quite a bit on eBay and I don't accept credit cards, so I tell all my
> customers they could use Bidpay.   www.bidpay.com
> A person can go there with their credit card and purchase a money order
> written to me for a $5.00 fee.  Bidpay notifies me when their credit card is
> accepted (usually within an hour).  That is when I can ship their purchase.
> Bidpay mails the money order to me usually that night.  They tell me that
> soon they will have a button to put on your site. I have never been
> disappointed with them. I have also used them to purchase items with no
> problems.
>
> I just found another company whom I have never dealt with, but this almost
> sounds better--   www.paypal.com   If you register your CC with them, anyone
> can buy from you with a CC and it is free.  When they make the purchase the
> money goes directly into your CC account.  Now with this one it doesn't have
> to be an auction, you can send any amount to anyone for any reason.  I just
> went to the paypal site and registered my CC and now if anyone here uses it I
> would appreciate you using the URL below...I get $10. and I just got $10. for
> registering.  All money exchanged goes into your account immediately.
> https://secure.paypal.com/refer/pal=glasldy%40aol.com
> Thanks,
> Janice
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

--
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************


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From owner-glass Wed Feb  9 20:39:10 2000
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From: Cecily and Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Subject: Re: spelling question for glass term [ng]
Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 22:31:48 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Organization: Grendel Studios
Precedence: bulk

Verbing a noun is a gerund.  But seriously, the English language has grown
because of it's ability to be flexible and to take a new idea and turn it into
the requisite parts of speech.  And since you are inventing, do it your way -
after all the dictionaries follow, they don't lead.  So, does patinaed or
patined look better?  I wonder if the Americans pick the latter and the UKers
(how's that for inventing?) pick the former? - Cec who is just playing.  (Is
Brits less offensive than UKers?  Is Brits offensive at all?)

Family Account wrote:

> I think we've been verbing a noun, so there probably isn't a correct way to
> verb it in the past tense.
>
> To be quite proper:  "Applied patina"!
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Shirley Balloch <balloch@netbridge.net>
> To: <glass@bungi.com>
> Sent: Monday, February 07, 2000 1:53 PM
> Subject: spelling question for glass term
>
> > Hi group,
> > How do you spell the past tense of patina?  Or is there even such a
> > word?
> > Thanks in advance.
> > Shirley B
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

--
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************


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From owner-glass Thu Feb 10 02:36:35 2000
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From: Cecily and Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
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Subject: Re: spelling question for glass term [ng]
Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 22:31:48 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Organization: Grendel Studios
Precedence: bulk

Verbing a noun is a gerund.  But seriously, the English language has grown
because of it's ability to be flexible and to take a new idea and turn it into
the requisite parts of speech.  And since you are inventing, do it your way -
after all the dictionaries follow, they don't lead.  So, does patinaed or
patined look better?  I wonder if the Americans pick the latter and the UKers
(how's that for inventing?) pick the former? - Cec who is just playing.  (Is
Brits less offensive than UKers?  Is Brits offensive at all?)

Family Account wrote:

> I think we've been verbing a noun, so there probably isn't a correct way to
> verb it in the past tense.
>
> To be quite proper:  "Applied patina"!
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Shirley Balloch <balloch@netbridge.net>
> To: <glass@bungi.com>
> Sent: Monday, February 07, 2000 1:53 PM
> Subject: spelling question for glass term
>
> > Hi group,
> > How do you spell the past tense of patina?  Or is there even such a
> > word?
> > Thanks in advance.
> > Shirley B
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

--
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************


----
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From owner-glass Thu Feb 10 02:37:36 2000
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X-Path: pobox.com!Northernlights
From: Tracy Reitmann <Northernlights@pobox.com>
To: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@ix.netcom.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: lead and pregnancy
Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 22:16:56 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

I don't know that much either, but I completely stayed away
from it while I was pregnant (btw, I delivered Tyler last
Thursday, a bouncing baby boy and cute as a button!).  I'm
feeding him breastmilk so I'm going to be staying away from
it still until the breastmilk feeding stops.  I know there
are precautions you can take, and I read up on what I could
find, but what convinced me not to even try was the fact
that lead affects the development of the brain, in a fetus
or a child, and I didn't want to take any chances with that
kind of thing.  When I first found out I was pregnant I had
my lead level checked at the doc's office...the results came
back "under 3."  To keep myself busy, though, I designed
some pieces that I want to make in the future, so at least I
was still doing "something" with stained glass.  

Suzanne Gunn wrote:
> 
> I wont pretend to know half as much as Steve...but...
> 
> I have my blood lead level checked 2 X's a year.  I just had it checked
> again last week.  I dont have the results of that test, but the test
> prior my lead level was 3.  That's *low*.
> 
> If that level changes to a higher number, I know that I have to take
> more precautions than I currently take.  If it doesnt change, or it
> decreases, I know Im taking care of myself.
> 
> They dont consider me to have anywhere near an elevated lead level, my
> sons lead level was higher from our living in an old house than mine is
> working with lead on a daily basis.
> 
> If you take proper precautions, you can have a healthy pregnancy and
> work in Stained glass.  I didnt touch it while I was pregnant.  But it
> can be done.  You have to be careful though.
> 
> Just so you know, Im over protective during pregnancy, and YES I QUIT
> smoking.  (I just KNOW there are a few people waiting to jump on that
> wagon) ;o)
> 
> Also, Jenna Sanders might have some info for you since she recently
> worked and taught classes during her pregnancy with Owen.  Owen is
> precious and healthy, btw.
> 
> Suzanne de Tulsa
> 
> Steve Richard wrote:
> >
> > My view (a man's view, of course!) is that you do not bring the two into
> > contact at all until well after you have stopped feeding the child.
> > The foetus absorbs the lead from the mother's blood stream very easily.
> > The lead has great and bad effects.  Clothing and other studio apparel
> > brings lead into the home, so change it and wash it elsewhere.
> > Steve
> > In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, LMCCDC@aol.com writes
> > >Can someone tell me of a good resource for information on working with lead
> > >and pregnancy?  Any first-hand experience would be appreciated too. Thanks,
> > >
> > >Lisa
> > >----
> > >For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > >To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> >
> > --
> > Steve Richard
> > Verrier Art Glass Ltd
> > s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> ----
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> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
----
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From owner-glass Thu Feb 10 02:50:57 2000
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From: Bobfuses@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: another business question
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 00:04:43 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

In a message dated 2/9/00 4:04:48 PM Pacific Standard Time, 
balloch@netbridge.net writes:

> On the other hand it seems so convenient to dealers and customers.
>  It must be the wave of the future, my old age is showing.

Sure, if you enjoy paying 18% interest! I keep my card clean each month which 
makes me the exception. Loose about one small sale a year due to not taking 
credit cards.

IMO, if you have to pay for stained glass by credit card you cannot afford it!

Bob in 92026

Please note change of address from bobdu@prodigy.net to bobfuses@aol.com
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From owner-glass Thu Feb 10 02:53:35 2000
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From: Don Udey <jazz-sni@springnet1.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: copyright
Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 23:11:41 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Hi Group...

I'm the culprit that brought up charging for a pokemon.  I knew before I
made one that I needed a copyright to duplicate.  The main reason I made
it was for the challenge...to see if  I could actually do it from a
picture...knowing where to make the cuts, etc.  I personally think it
looked pretty horrible once I got it completed...looked like a yellow
blob with a lot of solder!  Anyway, I had some mothers ask me about them
and I explained to them I couldn't because of the copyright.  I used it
as an example when I asked you'ens, "bungi group" how to price it.  I
thought that way we would all be talking about the same piece to price,
and I could get a better understanding on how you arrived at your
price.  Sorry for all the confusion. If the shoe was on the other foot,
I wouldn't want someone taking my ideas either!

                                                          Linda U

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From owner-glass Thu Feb 10 09:11:44 2000
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X-Path: sympatico.ca!tandg.higson
From: Anthony Higson <tandg.higson@sympatico.ca>
To: Bobfuses@aol.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: another business question
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 08:08:06 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@l.pop50.bellglobal.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Hi Bob
I don't think that I've lost sales for not taking credit cards.  In fact last
November, a lady braved the local Santa Claus parade to get to an Atm for cash to
pay for an item she wanted from me! I thought I wouldn't see her again but she
made it back and paid cash for her purchase. I was taken aback.  But I don't think
I like the idea of 4% off the top of my prices.
Gillian

Bobfuses@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 2/9/00 4:04:48 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> balloch@netbridge.net writes:
>
> > On the other hand it seems so convenient to dealers and customers.
> >  It must be the wave of the future, my old age is showing.
>
> Sure, if you enjoy paying 18% interest! I keep my card clean each month which
> makes me the exception. Loose about one small sale a year due to not taking
> credit cards.
>
> IMO, if you have to pay for stained glass by credit card you cannot afford it!
>
> Bob in 92026
>
> Please note change of address from bobdu@prodigy.net to bobfuses@aol.com
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

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From owner-glass Thu Feb 10 09:15:13 2000
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Subject: take me off your lists
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 09:13:31 EST
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please do not send me anymore information

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Subject: Re: spelling question for glass term [ng]
Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 22:31:48 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Organization: Grendel Studios
Precedence: bulk

Verbing a noun is a gerund.  But seriously, the English language has grown
because of it's ability to be flexible and to take a new idea and turn it into
the requisite parts of speech.  And since you are inventing, do it your way -
after all the dictionaries follow, they don't lead.  So, does patinaed or
patined look better?  I wonder if the Americans pick the latter and the UKers
(how's that for inventing?) pick the former? - Cec who is just playing.  (Is
Brits less offensive than UKers?  Is Brits offensive at all?)

Family Account wrote:

> I think we've been verbing a noun, so there probably isn't a correct way to
> verb it in the past tense.
>
> To be quite proper:  "Applied patina"!
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Shirley Balloch <balloch@netbridge.net>
> To: <glass@bungi.com>
> Sent: Monday, February 07, 2000 1:53 PM
> Subject: spelling question for glass term
>
> > Hi group,
> > How do you spell the past tense of patina?  Or is there even such a
> > word?
> > Thanks in advance.
> > Shirley B
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

--
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************


----
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From owner-glass Thu Feb 10 09:41:40 2000
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X-Path: OREGON.UOREGON.EDU!soleim
From: Sherrie Soleim <soleim@OREGON.UOREGON.EDU>
To: Stained Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: lead and pregnancy
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 08:32:17 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@daver.bungi.com>>
Organization: oregon.uoregon.edu
Precedence: bulk

Congratulations on your little angel!
I agree with you.  It isn't worth the risk.  Even taking all
the precautions you can imagine there is still a risk.

Tracy Reitmann wrote:

> I don't know that much either, but I completely stayed away
> from it while I was pregnant (btw, I delivered Tyler last
> Thursday, a bouncing baby boy and cute as a button!).  I'm
> feeding him breastmilk so I'm going to be staying away from
> it still until the breastmilk feeding stops.  I know there
> are precautions you can take, and I read up on what I could
> find, but what convinced me not to even try was the fact
> that lead affects the development of the brain, in a fetus
> or a child, and I didn't want to take any chances with that
> kind of thing.  When I first found out I was pregnant I had
> my lead level checked at the doc's office...the results came
> back "under 3."  To keep myself busy, though, I designed
> some pieces that I want to make in the future, so at least I
> was still doing "something" with stained glass.
>

--
<><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>
Sherrie L. Soleim
University of Oregon
Library Personnel Services
soleim@oregon.uoregon.edu
<><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>
"To succeed in politics, it is often
necessary to rise above your principles."


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From owner-glass Thu Feb 10 09:45:10 2000
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X-Path: gdi.net!shodge
From: Skip Hodge <shodge@gdi.net>
To: Shirley Balloch <balloch@netbridge.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: business question
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 07:52:27 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Hi Shirley,

I was a bit reluctant to accept CC in the begining but finally gave in.
you have to shop around for one with good rates ( 1.25 is pretty good )
Then there is the machine itself. I rent mine on a four year contract
for $34.99 per month wich includes insurance. About 1/3 of my sales are
on CC about $3000.00 per month so for me it is well worth it. I figure
those are sales I might not have if I didn't accpet CC.
By the way be sure to bring your Visa or Master Card Because at
Southern Exposure Stained Glass Supply, Inc. we don't take American
Express.

Skip
Southern Exposure Stained Glass Supply, Inc.
14115 West Colonial Dr.
Winter Garden, FL 34787
407-905-9594
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From owner-glass Thu Feb 10 09:54:47 2000
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From: Joseph Augusta <jaugusta@ply.adelphia.net>
To: Family Account <shad@mail2.nai.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: spelling question for glass term
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 07:05:19 -0500
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Family Account wrote:
> 
> I think we've been verbing a noun, so there probably isn't a correct way to
> verb it in the past tense.
> 
> To be quite proper:  "Applied patina"!

None of the above is true.  Check your Webster's--and other sources for
current usage--reference.com has a whole slew of them.

Best wishes,
Joseph
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From owner-glass Thu Feb 10 10:11:01 2000
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From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Press Release:ACC Craft Shows 2000
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 09:08:12 -0500
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The following press release is provided as a service to the IGGA
members.  It is not an endorsement.

Christie A. Wood-IGGA Exec.Director
------------------------------------------------------
Applications Available for Sarasota & Charlotte ACC Craft Shows 2000

The American Craft Council has announced that applications are available
for its
winter 2000 events, ACC Craft Show Sarasota dn ACC Craft Show Charlotte.
These rapidly growing shows, featuring 200 exhibitors at Sarasota and 225=

at Charlotte,
are scheduled on back-to-back weekends at the height of the holiday buyin=
g
season.  2000 will be the 8th year for an ACC Craft Show in Florida, with=

an
exciting preview evening hosted by the Ringling Museum of Art, the State
Art
Museum of Florida, and the 6th year for the ACC Craft Show in Charlotte. =

ACC
Craft Show Sarasota will take place December 1-3 at Robarts Arena, and th=
e
ACC Craft Show Charlotte will be Dec. 8-10 at the Charlotte Convention
Center.
This schedule allows exhibitors to show in 2 of the South's hottest marke=
ts
with one road trip.

Exhibitors can apply to either one or both events with a single applicati=
on
form
and set of slides.  There is a $20 application fee per show for
applications
received by the May 5 deadline.  applications received between May 6 and
May 12 are subject to a $50 late fee, in addition to application fees, an=
d
application received from May 13 to May 17 are subject to a $100 late fee=

From owner-glass Thu Feb 10 10:23:31 2000
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From: Witchdoc3@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: lead and pregnancy
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 09:03:51 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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In a message dated 2/10/00 5:39:39 AM, Northernlights@pobox.com writes:

>To keep myself busy, though, I designed
>some pieces that I want to make in the future, so at least I
>was still doing "something" with stained glass.

And if you just CAN'T stay away from the Magical Material, there's always 
mosaic work..........


Sparks
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From owner-glass Thu Feb 10 10:35:43 2000
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X-Path: mtcon.net!shigbee
From: "Shari" <shigbee@mtcon.net>
To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: spelling question for glass term [ng]
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 08:35:15 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

> > I think we've been verbing a noun, so there probably isn't a correct way
to
> > verb it in the past tense.

That's why I've stayed out of this conversation...you should've heard the
berating I took from a client just the other day after asking if he had been
"golfing". One does not golf, therefore one can't have been golfing. One
plays golf, is playing golf, or played golf.

Well, the heck with him. I'm off to patinae today, only because it's raining
so I can't golf...

Shari



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From owner-glass Thu Feb 10 10:38:02 2000
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From: "Linda Jo Letscher" <andor@ilnk.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: another business question
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 10:20:43 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Bob,
You and I are the CC companies worst nightmare, we pay off every month and
never pay and interest.  I absolutely refuse to pay those high interest
rates.
Linda Jo
-----Original Message-----
From: Bobfuses@aol.com <Bobfuses@aol.com>
To: glass@bungi.com <glass@bungi.com>
Date: Thursday, February 10, 2000 6:02 AM
Subject: Re: another business question


>In a message dated 2/9/00 4:04:48 PM Pacific Standard Time,
>balloch@netbridge.net writes:
>
>> On the other hand it seems so convenient to dealers and customers.
>>  It must be the wave of the future, my old age is showing.
>
>Sure, if you enjoy paying 18% interest! I keep my card clean each month
which
>makes me the exception. Loose about one small sale a year due to not taking
>credit cards.
>
>IMO, if you have to pay for stained glass by credit card you cannot afford
it!
>
>Bob in 92026
>
>Please note change of address from bobdu@prodigy.net to bobfuses@aol.com
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


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From owner-glass Thu Feb 10 10:58:00 2000
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X-Path: netconnect.com.au!anniekg
From: "Annie" <anniekg@netconnect.com.au>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Copyrights/Pokemon
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 19:40:22 +1100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Thanks Sherrie  & Linda Jo, I didn't want everyone thinking I was some huge
copywrite rip off merchant.

Now how bout sharing some of that cool weather?????  Pleaaaaaaaaaase???  I'm
dying here. :)  I need to do one heap of soldering and I just can't bring
myself to turn it on.

Annie

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From owner-glass Thu Feb 10 11:07:58 2000
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X-Path: ns.sympatico.ca!heinze.g
From: heinze.g@ns.sympatico.ca (Gail  HeinzeMiline)
To: Glass List <glass@bungi.com.>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Credit cards
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 08:53:25 -0400
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Organization: Glass with Class
Precedence: bulk

As a member of our provincial  Designer Crafts Council, I can get both Visa and
Master Card for 2%. The imprinter rental is only $12. annually. If there are no
Visa sales in a month, I am charged only $3. My major sales are at juried craft
shows at Christmas, when people are not carrying hundreds of dollars in cash, and
I may never see them again so am uncomfortable with cheques. 75% of my sales are
with Visa. And if I don't have it, the next booth does. There is no authorization
fee. And I am more comfortable with a pouch full of Visa slips on the way home. I
wouldn't give it up for anything! Often my customers buy high end items on
impulse, and then become regulars.
    Check into local Craft councils to see if  memberships get you a good deal.

Gail in Nova Scotia

Bobfuses@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 2/9/00 4:04:48 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> balloch@netbridge.net writes:
>
> > On the other hand it seems so convenient to dealers and customers.
> >  It must be the wave of the future, my old age is showing.
>
> Sure, if you enjoy paying 18% interest! I keep my card clean each month which
> makes me the exception. Loose about one small sale a year due to not taking
> credit cards.
>
> IMO, if you have to pay for stained glass by credit card you cannot afford it!
>
> Bob in 92026
>
> Please note change of address from bobdu@prodigy.net to bobfuses@aol.com
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass



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From owner-glass Thu Feb 10 11:15:48 2000
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X-Path: ltdarkpoet.junglelink.co.uk!charliehodge
From: "charlie hodge" <charliehodge@ltdarkpoet.junglelink.co.uk>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: re corner lead
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 18:02:18 -0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

dear annie
you could have saved youre phone call and asked me.  Hetleys do it plain and
brass coated, so Mike will maybe keep it or can get it.  give him a ring,
and i'll collect it next time i'm out there.

bye bye for now
steve
"Its just a ride"


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From owner-glass Thu Feb 10 11:31:33 2000
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X-Path: aol.com!Bobfuses
From: Bobfuses@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: another business question
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 13:52:26 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

In a message dated 2/10/00 10:39:07 AM Pacific Standard Time, andor@ilnk.com 
writes:
>  Bob,
>  You and I are the CC companies worst nightmare, we pay off every month and
>  never pay and interest.  I absolutely refuse to pay those high interest
>  rates.
>  Linda Jo

Actually we are cutting the cost of doing business by about 5% overall. 
That's BIG. No one should think that shop keepers do not pass these costs 
along to us. I used to travel to Saint Croix, USVI, a lot. There, some shops 
surcharge you for credit card use and my hotel made it plain that a personal 
check was desirable and a credit card would be surcharged. Shops that 
accepted credit cards simply had higher prices.

Perhaps we should apply to the Federal Reserve for special awards as 
inflation fighters!

Bob in 9 2 0 2 6
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From owner-glass Thu Feb 10 12:47:22 2000
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X-Path: pacbell.net!ezbongo2
From: rrk <ezbongo2@pacbell.net>
To: Bobfuses@aol.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: another business question
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 04:30:01 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@mta4.snfc21.pbi.net>>
Precedence: bulk



Bobfuses@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 2/9/00 4:04:48 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> balloch@netbridge.net writes:
>
> > On the other hand it seems so convenient to dealers and customers.
> >  It must be the wave of the future, my old age is showing.
>
> Sure, if you enjoy paying 18% interest! I keep my card clean each month which
> makes me the exception. Loose about one small sale a year due to not taking
> credit cards.
>
> IMO, if you have to pay for stained glass by credit card you cannot afford it!
>
> Bob in 92026

Hi Bob,

OTOH, there can be advantages to using CC's.

Take our case for an example.  We use the CC's (Discover mostly, also Visa and
Mastercard) for nearly everything  ... and pay it off every month completely.  We
do not buy *anything* unless we know we can pay for it that month and for us its
like 'plastic cash', a convenience only.  The result is we have a very high credit
rating which is helping us right at this very minute.  We're buying a home now
direct from the owner and getting a mortgage.

[You people won't BELIEVE the price per square foot for homes in Silicon Valley.
We got ours under market (no realtor) for $325/sq ft ... we "just happen" to know
the sellers <smile> ... but the price can go up to $350 -$450 / sq ft rapidly ...
with ppl are literally standing in line to pay these prices.  $500-$750 /sq ft is
not uncommon here in certain areas.  Obviously there is a housing shortage in the
SV ... this is not getting value for money.  To find out what your home would go
for here ... just take your square footage and multiply by $350, a lowball figure
for this area.]

One of the criteria for home loans is your credit rating.  We're first time home
buyers here in the US system (though I bought one in France and my wife still has
her apt in downtown Budapest) ... and it turns out that for first-time home buyers
(maybe for 2nd, 3rd, etc as well) that credit rating is very important.  Ours is
in the 900's and apparently that high rating facilitates the mortgage.  We don't
have too many CC's though which turns out to be a good thing as having too many
CC's, used or unused, is not good for your credit rating (or so we're told).

We're going to get our loan in any case, these mortgage people are practically
salivating to sign us up ... but a good CC rating is part of that.

Anyway .. the point is : that having CC's, using them, and paying them off
completely every month (which requires a certain fiscal discipline that many
people might not have) improves your credit rating, which can be a help in certain
situations.

Bob (in 95014)


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From owner-glass Thu Feb 10 14:13:36 2000
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	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #85 built 2000-Feb-10)
X-Path: pro-ns.net!jdahlin
From: "J. Dahlin" <jdahlin@pro-ns.net>
To: Bungi Glass Group <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Lymphedema
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 15:40:11 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

I am looking for some feedback from Bungi members.

A couple of weeks ago I underwent a mastectomy with lymph node removal.
While my lymph nodes were cancer free, it now puts me in a category of
women who must watch out for cuts, etc. for the rest of my life to try
to avoid a condition called Lymphedema.  Lymphedema has been known to
cause an arm to swell up to three times its normal size and can be very
painful and debilitating.

I am looking for other women who have had lymph nodes removed and have
continued to do stained glass work.  My research tells me that 1 out of
every 9 women ends up with breast cancer and many of these surgeries end
up with lymph nodes being taken.  There must be other people out there
who have had experience with Lymphedema or know of someone who has.

I enjoy doing stained glass and have done so for 9 years.   I don't want
to quit now, but it appears that I may not have any more choice in this
matter than I did of having my surgery last month.  Yet I could be one
of the lucky 85% that is not bothered by it.  When they recommend that
you take your own equipment in to have a manicure done, it sounds
serious.  I haven't been able to find any real indication that anyone
knows for sure what exactly causes Lymphedema.  They also say "wear
gloves" when doing gardening or other household work where you may get
cut.

I did contact Monona (whose name was mentioned in a message a couple of
days ago) and got some input from her, but she had never been asked this
question before.  She agreed with me that perhaps someone out there in
Bungi Land might have some answers for me.

I am not looking for pity,  I am now cancer free and will survive. I
plan to go back to work next week, so I am on the mend.  But I really
would appreciate any help/contacts you may know of who have "been
there."

Joanne Dahlin

----
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From owner-glass Thu Feb 10 15:44:53 2000
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X-Path: one.net!kleeman
From: one.net!kleeman
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Lymphedema
Date: Thu Feb 10 15:20:00 2000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Organization: taylor'd Expressions
Precedence: bulk

joanne
i had part of my left breast removed in 1995 due to cancer, and some lymph
nodes also .. i was never told anything about cuts and scapes ... i have
been doing glass for 13 years, professionally for 7 -- i have never had a
problem ..

i think this is something you should discuss further with your oncologist
... i listed a link and some information below -- they don't say anything
about cuts .. and to tell you the truth, i have never heard this ..

glad you are doing okay .. i know how scary it is .. but if you continue to
believe you will be okay, you will be okay ..

thanx
debbie



http://www.cancerbacup.org.uk/info/lymphedema.htm

What is lymphoedema?

----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----

If a lymph channel becomes blocked, perhaps by a tumour or because of
scarring caused by radiotherapy or surgery, the lymph fluid is unable to
pass along the channel and so it builds up behind the blockage and seeps
into the surrounding tissues, causing swelling. The medical term for
swelling is oedema -- which gives rise to the name lymphoedema. The degree
of swelling will depend on the number of nodes and vessels which have become
obstructed or damaged.

Another cause of lymphoedema is the removal of lymph nodes by surgery.
Surgery or radiotherapy on their own are less likely to cause lymphoedema
than if they are both given together to the same area - for example, when
lymph nodes are removed from the armpit during surgery for breast cancer and
the area is then treated with radiotherapy. Not everyone who has
radiotherapy to her or his lymph nodes will develop lymphoedema, however,
and among those who do, many will experience only mild swelling.

Lymphoedema most commonly occurs in the arm, but if nodes in the groin area
are involved then it can occur in the leg. The affected arm or leg may
become swollen, stiff and uncomfortable and awkward to move, making daily
activities like dressing difficult. It can develop weeks, months or even
years after cancer treatment and it is difficult to predict who will be
affected.

Although lymphoedema is usually found in an arm or leg, other parts of the
body can be affected. There may be swelling of the trunk (chest and abdomen)
or groin and more rarely facial swelling if the local lymph nodes are
affected.

It is not possible to replace lymph nodes which have been removed or the
lymphatic vessels which have been damaged so once lymphoedema has developed
it cannot be cured permanently. It can usually be controlled, however, by
various methods which will be described in this booklet.


----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----

----- Original Message -----
From: J. Dahlin <jdahlin@pro-ns.net>
To: Bungi Glass Group <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 10, 2000 5:32 PM
Subject: Lymphedema


> I am looking for some feedback from Bungi members.
>
> A couple of weeks ago I underwent a mastectomy with lymph node removal.
> While my lymph nodes were cancer free, it now puts me in a category of
> women who must watch out for cuts, etc. for the rest of my life to try
> to avoid a condition called Lymphedema.  Lymphedema has been known to
> cause an arm to swell up to three times its normal size and can be very
> painful and debilitating.
>
> I am looking for other women who have had lymph nodes removed and have
> continued to do stained glass work.  My research tells me that 1 out of
> every 9 women ends up with breast cancer and many of these surgeries end
> up with lymph nodes being taken.  There must be other people out there
> who have had experience with Lymphedema or know of someone who has.
>
> I enjoy doing stained glass and have done so for 9 years.   I don't want
> to quit now, but it appears that I may not have any more choice in this
> matter than I did of having my surgery last month.  Yet I could be one
> of the lucky 85% that is not bothered by it.  When they recommend that
> you take your own equipment in to have a manicure done, it sounds
> serious.  I haven't been able to find any real indication that anyone
> knows for sure what exactly causes Lymphedema.  They also say "wear
> gloves" when doing gardening or other household work where you may get
> cut.
>
> I did contact Monona (whose name was mentioned in a message a couple of
> days ago) and got some input from her, but she had never been asked this
> question before.  She agreed with me that perhaps someone out there in
> Bungi Land might have some answers for me.
>
> I am not looking for pity,  I am now cancer free and will survive. I
> plan to go back to work next week, so I am on the mend.  But I really
> would appreciate any help/contacts you may know of who have "been
> there."
>
> Joanne Dahlin
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>

----
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From owner-glass Thu Feb 10 16:34:15 2000
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	for rglass-42; Thu, 10 Feb 2000 16:15:33 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #85 built 2000-Feb-10)
X-Path: one.net!kleeman
From: one.net!kleeman
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Lymphedema
Date: Thu Feb 10 16:13:47 2000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Organization: taylor'd Expressions
Precedence: bulk

OOPS -- sorry guys, i meant for this to go directly to her ..

sorry


----- Original Message -----
From: <daver!one.net!kleeman>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 10, 2000 3:20 PM
Subject: Re: Lymphedema


> joanne
> i had part of my left breast removed in 1995 due to cancer, and some lymph
> nodes also .. i was never told anything about cuts and scapes ... i have
> been doing glass for 13 years, professionally for 7 -- i have never had a
> problem ..
>
> i think this is something you should discuss further with your oncologist
> ... i listed a link and some information below -- they don't say anything
> about cuts .. and to tell you the truth, i have never heard this ..
>
> glad you are doing okay .. i know how scary it is .. but if you continue
to
> believe you will be okay, you will be okay ..
>
> thanx
> debbie
>
>
>
> http://www.cancerbacup.org.uk/info/lymphedema.htm
>
> What is lymphoedema?
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
> ----
>
> If a lymph channel becomes blocked, perhaps by a tumour or because of
> scarring caused by radiotherapy or surgery, the lymph fluid is unable to
> pass along the channel and so it builds up behind the blockage and seeps
> into the surrounding tissues, causing swelling. The medical term for
> swelling is oedema -- which gives rise to the name lymphoedema. The degree
> of swelling will depend on the number of nodes and vessels which have
become
> obstructed or damaged.
>
> Another cause of lymphoedema is the removal of lymph nodes by surgery.
> Surgery or radiotherapy on their own are less likely to cause lymphoedema
> than if they are both given together to the same area - for example, when
> lymph nodes are removed from the armpit during surgery for breast cancer
and
> the area is then treated with radiotherapy. Not everyone who has
> radiotherapy to her or his lymph nodes will develop lymphoedema, however,
> and among those who do, many will experience only mild swelling.
>
> Lymphoedema most commonly occurs in the arm, but if nodes in the groin
area
> are involved then it can occur in the leg. The affected arm or leg may
> become swollen, stiff and uncomfortable and awkward to move, making daily
> activities like dressing difficult. It can develop weeks, months or even
> years after cancer treatment and it is difficult to predict who will be
> affected.
>
> Although lymphoedema is usually found in an arm or leg, other parts of the
> body can be affected. There may be swelling of the trunk (chest and
abdomen)
> or groin and more rarely facial swelling if the local lymph nodes are
> affected.
>
> It is not possible to replace lymph nodes which have been removed or the
> lymphatic vessels which have been damaged so once lymphoedema has
developed
> it cannot be cured permanently. It can usually be controlled, however, by
> various methods which will be described in this booklet.
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
> ----
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: J. Dahlin <jdahlin@pro-ns.net>
> To: Bungi Glass Group <glass@bungi.com>
> Sent: Thursday, February 10, 2000 5:32 PM
> Subject: Lymphedema
>
>
> > I am looking for some feedback from Bungi members.
> >
> > A couple of weeks ago I underwent a mastectomy with lymph node removal.
> > While my lymph nodes were cancer free, it now puts me in a category of
> > women who must watch out for cuts, etc. for the rest of my life to try
> > to avoid a condition called Lymphedema.  Lymphedema has been known to
> > cause an arm to swell up to three times its normal size and can be very
> > painful and debilitating.
> >
> > I am looking for other women who have had lymph nodes removed and have
> > continued to do stained glass work.  My research tells me that 1 out of
> > every 9 women ends up with breast cancer and many of these surgeries end
> > up with lymph nodes being taken.  There must be other people out there
> > who have had experience with Lymphedema or know of someone who has.
> >
> > I enjoy doing stained glass and have done so for 9 years.   I don't want
> > to quit now, but it appears that I may not have any more choice in this
> > matter than I did of having my surgery last month.  Yet I could be one
> > of the lucky 85% that is not bothered by it.  When they recommend that
> > you take your own equipment in to have a manicure done, it sounds
> > serious.  I haven't been able to find any real indication that anyone
> > knows for sure what exactly causes Lymphedema.  They also say "wear
> > gloves" when doing gardening or other household work where you may get
> > cut.
> >
> > I did contact Monona (whose name was mentioned in a message a couple of
> > days ago) and got some input from her, but she had never been asked this
> > question before.  She agreed with me that perhaps someone out there in
> > Bungi Land might have some answers for me.
> >
> > I am not looking for pity,  I am now cancer free and will survive. I
> > plan to go back to work next week, so I am on the mend.  But I really
> > would appreciate any help/contacts you may know of who have "been
> > there."
> >
> > Joanne Dahlin
> >
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> >
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>

----
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From owner-glass Thu Feb 10 17:05:23 2000
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X-Path: ix.netcom.com!gunnx4
From: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@ix.netcom.com>
To: "J. Dahlin" <jdahlin@pro-ns.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Lymphedema
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 18:48:15 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Joanne, 

My friend wears that tight sleeve thing to protect her arm.
Prevention.

I'll ask her if it has a special name.

Suzanne

"J. Dahlin" wrote:
> 
> I am looking for some feedback from Bungi members.
> 
> A couple of weeks ago I underwent a mastectomy with lymph node removal.
> While my lymph nodes were cancer free, it now puts me in a category of
> women who must watch out for cuts, etc. for the rest of my life to try
> to avoid a condition called Lymphedema.  Lymphedema has been known to
> cause an arm to swell up to three times its normal size and can be very
> painful and debilitating.
> 
> I am looking for other women who have had lymph nodes removed and have
> continued to do stained glass work.  My research tells me that 1 out of
> every 9 women ends up with breast cancer and many of these surgeries end
> up with lymph nodes being taken.  There must be other people out there
> who have had experience with Lymphedema or know of someone who has.
> 
> I enjoy doing stained glass and have done so for 9 years.   I don't want
> to quit now, but it appears that I may not have any more choice in this
> matter than I did of having my surgery last month.  Yet I could be one
> of the lucky 85% that is not bothered by it.  When they recommend that
> you take your own equipment in to have a manicure done, it sounds
> serious.  I haven't been able to find any real indication that anyone
> knows for sure what exactly causes Lymphedema.  They also say "wear
> gloves" when doing gardening or other household work where you may get
> cut.
> 
> I did contact Monona (whose name was mentioned in a message a couple of
> days ago) and got some input from her, but she had never been asked this
> question before.  She agreed with me that perhaps someone out there in
> Bungi Land might have some answers for me.
> 
> I am not looking for pity,  I am now cancer free and will survive. I
> plan to go back to work next week, so I am on the mend.  But I really
> would appreciate any help/contacts you may know of who have "been
> there."
> 
> Joanne Dahlin
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
----
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From owner-glass Thu Feb 10 18:43:38 2000
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From: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@ix.netcom.com>
To: Bobfuses@aol.com
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Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 20:12:41 -0600
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That's how I buy all my glass! ;o)

Suzanne

Bobfuses@aol.com wrote:
> 
> In a message dated 2/9/00 4:04:48 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> balloch@netbridge.net writes:
> 
> > On the other hand it seems so convenient to dealers and customers.
> >  It must be the wave of the future, my old age is showing.
> 
> Sure, if you enjoy paying 18% interest! I keep my card clean each month which
> makes me the exception. Loose about one small sale a year due to not taking
> credit cards.
> 
> IMO, if you have to pay for stained glass by credit card you cannot afford it!
> 
> Bob in 92026
> 
> Please note change of address from bobdu@prodigy.net to bobfuses@aol.com
> ----
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From owner-glass Thu Feb 10 18:50:56 2000
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X-Path: arrakis.es!kiram
From: "Kira Mason" <kiram@arrakis.es>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: RE: for the birds
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 10:36:07 +0100
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

It will do the same thing to the paint on a car if you leave it long enough
too.  I agree with you, what are they eating?¿?¿?
Kira
-----Mensaje original-----
De: Beveler4@aol.com <Beveler4@aol.com>
Para: Glass@bungi.com <Glass@bungi.com>
Fecha: miércoles 9 de febrero de 2000 17:03
Asunto: for the birds


>Heres something you won't see or hear about everyday:
>I was just getting a piece of glass from my bins and low and behold a bird
had done its duty on the glass,probably in transport from the
distributor.But here is the kicker,it had actually eaten into and etched the
glass where ever it had touched.It was as if someone had poured acid onto
the glass.What are we feeding these guys????!!!!Thought you might get a kick
out of this it sure through me for a loop.  Beveler4 (Stan)
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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From owner-glass Thu Feb 10 19:14:01 2000
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X-Path: OREGON.UOREGON.EDU!soleim
From: Sherrie Soleim <soleim@OREGON.UOREGON.EDU>
To: Stained Glass <glass@bungi.com>
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Congratulations on your little angel!
I agree with you.  It isn't worth the risk.  Even taking all
the precautions you can imagine there is still a risk.

Tracy Reitmann wrote:

> I don't know that much either, but I completely stayed away
> from it while I was pregnant (btw, I delivered Tyler last
> Thursday, a bouncing baby boy and cute as a button!).  I'm
> feeding him breastmilk so I'm going to be staying away from
> it still until the breastmilk feeding stops.  I know there
> are precautions you can take, and I read up on what I could
> find, but what convinced me not to even try was the fact
> that lead affects the development of the brain, in a fetus
> or a child, and I didn't want to take any chances with that
> kind of thing.  When I first found out I was pregnant I had
> my lead level checked at the doc's office...the results came
> back "under 3."  To keep myself busy, though, I designed
> some pieces that I want to make in the future, so at least I
> was still doing "something" with stained glass.
>

--
<><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>
Sherrie L. Soleim
University of Oregon
Library Personnel Services
soleim@oregon.uoregon.edu
<><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>
"To succeed in politics, it is often
necessary to rise above your principles."


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From owner-glass Thu Feb 10 19:40:45 2000
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please do not send me anymore information
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X-Path: home.com!cecnralph
From: Cecily and Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
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Subject: Re: spelling question for glass term [ng]
Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 22:31:48 -0500
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Organization: Grendel Studios
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Verbing a noun is a gerund.  But seriously, the English language has grown
because of it's ability to be flexible and to take a new idea and turn it into
the requisite parts of speech.  And since you are inventing, do it your way -
after all the dictionaries follow, they don't lead.  So, does patinaed or
patined look better?  I wonder if the Americans pick the latter and the UKers
(how's that for inventing?) pick the former? - Cec who is just playing.  (Is
Brits less offensive than UKers?  Is Brits offensive at all?)

Family Account wrote:

> I think we've been verbing a noun, so there probably isn't a correct way to
> verb it in the past tense.
>
> To be quite proper:  "Applied patina"!
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Shirley Balloch <balloch@netbridge.net>
> To: <glass@bungi.com>
> Sent: Monday, February 07, 2000 1:53 PM
> Subject: spelling question for glass term
>
> > Hi group,
> > How do you spell the past tense of patina?  Or is there even such a
> > word?
> > Thanks in advance.
> > Shirley B
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

--
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************


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From owner-glass Thu Feb 10 19:44:15 2000
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X-Path: ameritech.net!diamonds2
From: Mary Austin <diamonds2@ameritech.net>
To: "J. Dahlin" <jdahlin@pro-ns.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Lymphedema
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 22:11:02 -0500
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I too had breast cancer and had some of the lymph glands removed. I've done
stained glass for 6 yrs. now and although I do have some cuts I've never
been bothered by this problem. I am careful to clean and disinfect those
cuts though. I have some other health problems that can complicate getting
those cuts so I do try and be more careful. I'm also a hairstylist and do
manicures. It's for your own health safety that they want you to bring in
your own instruments. That way you know they are sanitised completely. I
hope this helps you in some small way. You're welcome to call and talk to me
at 317-885-6852. I'll be more than happy to answer any questions I can.

Mary Austin
diamonds2@ameritech.net

"J. Dahlin" wrote:

> I am looking for some feedback from Bungi members.
>
> A couple of weeks ago I underwent a mastectomy with lymph node removal.
> While my lymph nodes were cancer free, it now puts me in a category of
> women who must watch out for cuts, etc. for the rest of my life to try
> to avoid a condition called Lymphedema.  Lymphedema has been known to
> cause an arm to swell up to three times its normal size and can be very
> painful and debilitating.
>
> I am looking for other women who have had lymph nodes removed and have
> continued to do stained glass work.  My research tells me that 1 out of
> every 9 women ends up with breast cancer and many of these surgeries end
> up with lymph nodes being taken.  There must be other people out there
> who have had experience with Lymphedema or know of someone who has.
>
> I enjoy doing stained glass and have done so for 9 years.   I don't want
> to quit now, but it appears that I may not have any more choice in this
> matter than I did of having my surgery last month.  Yet I could be one
> of the lucky 85% that is not bothered by it.  When they recommend that
> you take your own equipment in to have a manicure done, it sounds
> serious.  I haven't been able to find any real indication that anyone
> knows for sure what exactly causes Lymphedema.  They also say "wear
> gloves" when doing gardening or other household work where you may get
> cut.
>
> I did contact Monona (whose name was mentioned in a message a couple of
> days ago) and got some input from her, but she had never been asked this
> question before.  She agreed with me that perhaps someone out there in
> Bungi Land might have some answers for me.
>
> I am not looking for pity,  I am now cancer free and will survive. I
> plan to go back to work next week, so I am on the mend.  But I really
> would appreciate any help/contacts you may know of who have "been
> there."
>
> Joanne Dahlin
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

----
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From owner-glass Thu Feb 10 19:45:38 2000
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X-Path: juno.com!mschatee
From: mschatee@juno.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Re: Lymphedema
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 21:41:13 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

I am sorry to hear about  your ordeal but congratulations on being cancer
free.  I do know someone who went through the same thing.  She recently
told me that she hadn't been doing much glass because she had lymphadema,
I had never heard of it but she described it as you did.  She said that
she was told too that she had to be careful about cutting herself.  RIght
now her hands are swollen but she said as soon as the swelling goes down
she is going to start doing glass again.  She will wear gloves when
cutting and be careful when foiling too since the sides are sharp and
sometimes she gets cut from the foil.  OVERALL she has NO INTENTIONS of
giving up stained glass.  SHe says she loves it and will get through the
lymphadema just like she got through the breast cancer and her life WILL
return to normal.
I guess the moral of my story is you aren't alone.  Best of luck and
health to you.  I wish you the best and be careful:-)

________________________________________________________________
YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET!
Juno now offers FREE Internet Access!
Try it today - there's no risk!  For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
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From owner-glass Thu Feb 10 20:11:35 2000
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From: "J. Dahlin" <jdahlin@pro-ns.net>
To: Bungi Glass Group <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Debbie's Response re Lymphedema
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 21:27:09 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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I tried responding directly to you, but the message wouldn't go
through.  Please send me your e-mail address and I will resend my
message.  It was very encouraging to hear that you have not been
bothered by Lymphedema with your stained glass work.  One other reply
just came through with a similar message.  I am feeling better about it
already!!!!!!!  : )

Joanne

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From owner-glass Thu Feb 10 22:35:05 2000
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X-Path: juno.com!pennyante
From: Stephanie N Larson <pennyante@juno.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: re: re: spelling question for glass term
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 11:35:39 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

I give up-personally, I'm gonna stick with "finished". How's that? Just
kidding. I copied these from my Microsoft American Heritage Dictionary;
Good luck if it helps.

patina (p=E0t=B4n-e, pe-t=EA=B4ne) also patine (p=E0-t=EAn=B4)  noun
1.A thin greenish layer, usually basic copper sulfate, that forms on
copper or copper alloys, such as bronze, as a result of corrosion.
2.The sheen on any surface, produced by age and use.
3.A change in appearance produced by long-standing behavior, practice, or
use: a face etched with a patina of fine lines and tiny wrinkles.

[Italian, from Latin, plate (from the incrustation on ancient metal
plates and dishes). See paten.]

patinaed

patinaed (p=E0t=B4n-=EEd, pe-t=EA=B4n=EEd) adjective
Having a coating, covering, or sheen; patinated. Used especially to
describe the corrosive green layer that forms on copper and its alloys.
patinate

patinate (p=E0t=B4n-=E2t=B4) verb
patinated, patinating, patinates verb, transitive
To furnish with a patina.

verb, intransitive
To acquire or become covered with a patina.

Excerpted from The American Heritage=AE Dictionary of the English Languag=
e,
Third Edition  =A9 1996 by Houghton Mifflin Company. Electronic version
licensed from INSO Corporation; further reproduction and distribution in
accordance with the Copyright Law of the United States. All rights
reserved.

>cecnralph wrote:

Verbing a noun is a gerund.  But seriously, the English language has
grown
because of it's ability to be flexible and to take a new idea and turn it
into
the requisite parts of speech.  And since you are inventing, do it your
way -
after all the dictionaries follow, they don't lead.  So, does patinaed or
patined look better?  I wonder if the Americans pick the latter and the
UKers
(how's that for inventing?) pick the former? - Cec who is just playing.=20
(Is
Brits less offensive than UKers?  Is Brits offensive at all?)

Family Account wrote:

> I think we've been verbing a noun, so there probably isn't a correct
way to
> verb it in the past tense.
>
> To be quite proper:  "Applied patina"!
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Shirley Balloch <balloch@netbridge.net>
> To: <glass@bungi.com>
> Sent: Monday, February 07, 2000 1:53 PM
> Subject: spelling question for glass term
>
> > Hi group,
> > How do you spell the past tense of patina?  Or is there even such a
> > word?
> > Thanks in advance.
> > Shirley B
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

--
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************


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From owner-glass Fri Feb 11 03:40:47 2000
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: anne walker <anne-walker@appleonline.net>
Subject: Re: corner lead
Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 09:38:52 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk

First of all Annie, I'd say don't bother making a lantern in lead came,
as, unless you incorporate some form of reinforcing, it won't hold
together under its own weight for long.

Still, if you want to do it, go ahead.  The corner lead has longer outer
leaves than the inner ones, so no bevelling of the glass will be needed.

Steve

In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, anne walker <anne-walker@appleonline.net>
writes
>I want to make a lantern using corner or double lead rather than copper
>foil as I think this will make it stronger and neater.  However I cannot
>find anyone who has used it before - although have heard that the glass
>needs to be bevelled in order for the 2 pieces of glass to meet in the
>corner.  Any advice please?  (Would I have to use a special beveller? -
>I only have a grinder).
>
>Annie
>
>----
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-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Fri Feb 11 03:55:41 2000
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Sherrie Soleim <soleim@OREGON.UOREGON.EDU>
Subject: Re: Pricing
Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 09:44:08 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk

Sherrie,
My pricing is in bands of complexity by the square metre.  The most
simple starts at 550 UKpounds per metre, rising to about 1100.
This includes time, overheads, materials.  This is based on record
keeping which gave me an average of material costs, time spent, and
income desired.  The overheads were then added as an hourly element
based on productive time (about half total available time)
        My profit is the difference between the hourly rate and the
overheads.  No additional percentage is added on.

My advice is to get a simple book on starting up in business, where all
the factors on costing and pricing will be covered.  In the UK there is
a teach yourself book.  I don't remember the USA title for the series,
although I know there is one.
Steve


In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, Sherrie Soleim
<soleim@OREGON.UOREGON.EDU> writes
>And how do you compute your final price?  I'm just a hobbyist but would like to 
>branch out
>a bit and try to sell some.  I'm currently working on a piece that is about 32" 
>by 22".
>I've been keeping track of the amount of time I am working on it to help me when 
>I get to
>trying to set a price.  Do you have any kind of formula that you use to compute 
>a selling
>price?  Like $X * size + $X * time spent + % for profit or something like that?  
>Just
>curious where to begin to figure a fair price.
>
>Sherrie
>
>Steve Richard wrote:
>
>> if the glass is free, then your time is the important element. I usually
>> price by the piece.
>>
>> Steve
>>
>
>--
><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>
>Sherrie L. Soleim
>University of Oregon
>Library Personnel Services
>soleim@oregon.uoregon.edu
><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>
>"To succeed in politics, it is often
>necessary to rise above your principles."
>
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Fri Feb 11 04:01:56 2000
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Shari <shigbee@mtcon.net>
Subject: Re: spelling question for glass term [ng]
Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 09:32:36 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk

Since I've opened my two volumes of the OED, I couldn't resist "golf"
The OED has recognised Golf as a verb at least since 1932.
Steve

In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, Shari <shigbee@mtcon.net> writes
>> > I think we've been verbing a noun, so there probably isn't a correct way
>to
>> > verb it in the past tense.
>
>That's why I've stayed out of this conversation...you should've heard the
>berating I took from a client just the other day after asking if he had been
>"golfing". One does not golf, therefore one can't have been golfing. One
>plays golf, is playing golf, or played golf.
>
>Well, the heck with him. I'm off to patinae today, only because it's raining
>so I can't golf...
>
>Shari
>
>
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Fri Feb 11 04:08:38 2000
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From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Cecily and Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
Subject: NG National nicknames (Was:spelling question for glass term [ng])
Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 09:11:38 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk

In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, Cecily and Ralph Wood
<cecnralph@home.com> writes
..
........cut........
>  (Is
>Brits less offensive than UKers?  Is Brits offensive at all?)
>
Well is Yanks offensive at all?  Depends on the way you say it doesn't
it?
Yes Brits is mildly offensive, but no one will fall out with you over
it.

Steve

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Fri Feb 11 04:09:01 2000
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Kira Mason <kiram@arrakis.es>
Subject: Glas corrosion (was: for the birds)
Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 09:20:11 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk

The bird droppings are full of ammonia. Just remember the smell of a
chicken coop and you will know that it natural avian excretion product.
Ammonia in the presence of other salts becomes an acid.  Glass being an
alkaline material is corroded by contact.   There are lots of other ways
for glass to become corroded too.
Keep glass dry with air spaces, and wipe off any spills quickly are two
good rules for keeping glass without corrosion.

In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, Kira Mason <kiram@arrakis.es> writes
>It will do the same thing to the paint on a car if you leave it long enough
>too.  I agree with you, what are they eating???
>Kira
>-----Mensaje original-----
>De: Beveler4@aol.com <Beveler4@aol.com>
>Para: Glass@bungi.com <Glass@bungi.com>
>Fecha: mircoles 9 de febrero de 2000 17:03
>Asunto: for the birds
>
>
>>Heres something you won't see or hear about everyday:
>>I was just getting a piece of glass from my bins and low and behold a bird
>had done its duty on the glass,probably in transport from the
>distributor.But here is the kicker,it had actually eaten into and etched the
>glass where ever it had touched.It was as if someone had poured acid onto
>the glass.What are we feeding these guys????!!!!Thought you might get a kick
>out of this it sure through me for a loop.  Beveler4 (Stan)
>>----
>>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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>
>
>----
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-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Fri Feb 11 05:05:37 2000
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From: rrk <ezbongo2@pacbell.net>
To: Bronya751@aol.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: do not send me any mail
Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 04:49:11 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@mta1.snfc21.pbi.net>>
Precedence: bulk



Bronya751@aol.com wrote:

[most of message snipped]

> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

Instructions on how to change your subscription
are appendixed to the bottom of every message
sent to the Bungi mailing list, including this one.



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From owner-glass Fri Feb 11 05:35:16 2000
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X-Path: ukonline.co.uk!brian.shepherd
From: "Brian Shepherd" <brian.shepherd@ukonline.co.uk>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Brits
Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 12:39:27 -0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Brits is not in the least offensive to me. I can't see why
it should be. I think Limeys is more of an equivalent to
Yanks than Brits.

I think we all know when people are trying to annoy us but I
have to accept that some people take offence at the
slightest thing - you will never please everyone!

I use Brit myself - when I'm not being English!! (But then I
am half Yank!!!!)

BtB (Brian the Brit!)


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From owner-glass Fri Feb 11 05:37:47 2000
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X-Path: worldnet.att.net!leetollett
From: lee tollett <leetollett@worldnet.att.net>
To: rrk <ezbongo2@pacbell.net>, Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: another business question
Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 07:08:27 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Wow!!!!   $ 325  per foot is unreal.  Im from Oklahoma, and we jest built a new house
in June for $61 per foot.   Thats full brick !!  wow, don't wont to live in Calif.
Lee

rrk wrote:

> Bobfuses@aol.com wrote:
>
> > In a message dated 2/9/00 4:04:48 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> > balloch@netbridge.net writes:
> >
> > > On the other hand it seems so convenient to dealers and customers.
> > >  It must be the wave of the future, my old age is showing.
> >
> > Sure, if you enjoy paying 18% interest! I keep my card clean each month which
> > makes me the exception. Loose about one small sale a year due to not taking
> > credit cards.
> >
> > IMO, if you have to pay for stained glass by credit card you cannot afford it!
> >
> > Bob in 92026
>
> Hi Bob,
>
> OTOH, there can be advantages to using CC's.
>
> Take our case for an example.  We use the CC's (Discover mostly, also Visa and
> Mastercard) for nearly everything  ... and pay it off every month completely.  We
> do not buy *anything* unless we know we can pay for it that month and for us its
> like 'plastic cash', a convenience only.  The result is we have a very high credit
> rating which is helping us right at this very minute.  We're buying a home now
> direct from the owner and getting a mortgage.
>
> [You people won't BELIEVE the price per square foot for homes in Silicon Valley.
> We got ours under market (no realtor) for $325/sq ft ... we "just happen" to know
> the sellers <smile> ... but the price can go up to $350 -$450 / sq ft rapidly ...
> with ppl are literally standing in line to pay these prices.  $500-$750 /sq ft is
> not uncommon here in certain areas.  Obviously there is a housing shortage in the
> SV ... this is not getting value for money.  To find out what your home would go
> for here ... just take your square footage and multiply by $350, a lowball figure
> for this area.]
>
> One of the criteria for home loans is your credit rating.  We're first time home
> buyers here in the US system (though I bought one in France and my wife still has
> her apt in downtown Budapest) ... and it turns out that for first-time home buyers
> (maybe for 2nd, 3rd, etc as well) that credit rating is very important.  Ours is
> in the 900's and apparently that high rating facilitates the mortgage.  We don't
> have too many CC's though which turns out to be a good thing as having too many
> CC's, used or unused, is not good for your credit rating (or so we're told).
>
> We're going to get our loan in any case, these mortgage people are practically
> salivating to sign us up ... but a good CC rating is part of that.
>
> Anyway .. the point is : that having CC's, using them, and paying them off
> completely every month (which requires a certain fiscal discipline that many
> people might not have) improves your credit rating, which can be a help in certain
> situations.
>
> Bob (in 95014)
>
> ----
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From owner-glass Fri Feb 11 06:06:36 2000
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From: rrk <ezbongo2@pacbell.net>
To: leetollett@worldnet.att.net
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: another business question
Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 05:50:34 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@mta1.snfc21.pbi.net>>
Precedence: bulk



lee tollett wrote:

> Wow!!!!   $ 325  per foot is unreal.  Im from Oklahoma, and we jest built a new house
> in June for $61 per foot.   Thats full brick !!  wow, don't wont to live in Calif.
> Lee

Hi Lee,

You get used to it.  We're buying now because the housing shortage is expected to
continue for the next 3-5 years, at least, with housing prices to approximately double in
the next 2 years ... and double again the two years following.  IOW, get in now while we
still can.

Here in Cupertino, the driving forces are location (right in the center of the Santa
Clara Valley, aka SV) and the quality of the schools.  The Cupertino community is now
largely Asian ... primarily Chinese, Korean, Japanese, and some Indian ... mostly native
born.  Of the 24 children in my son's kindergarten class (he's being mainstreamed into K
right now from a special ed class and will start 1st or 2nd grade next year, probably 2nd
as it looks now <G>, a far cry from the situation this same time last year) ... 7 are not
native-born Asians ... or 71% native-born Asian.  This is not conjecture or something I
read in the paper, this is my son's class and I know these kids and many of the
mothers/fathers ... being a diligent father and all that good stuff.  These folks are the
cream of the crop of our Asian immigrants ... and ... they put a very high value on
education ... much more so than the majority of native-born Americans ... and so ...
they're willing to sacrifice to insure their children get high-quality education.  I
understand that ... we're staying in Cupertino for the same reason <smile>.  I read in
the newspaper last summer that for one of the HS's here in Cupertino, 97% of the
graduating seniors are going to college, and the *average* SAT score for those same
seniors was in the 1300's (can't remember the exact number).

However, we're making a choice ... the same choice everyone in every large American city
makes.  Live close to work (my wife has a 10 min drive to work) and be able to spend time
with the kids (actually a necessity in our situation) and pay high housing prices ... or
live far from work and have a 45-120+ minute commute each way and pay lower housing
prices though you have to purchase a new vehicle more often too..

Anyway ... gotta keep movin' ...

Bob (in 95014)

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From owner-glass Fri Feb 11 07:07:59 2000
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X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Press Release:G.A.S. 2000 Tech. Display
Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 09:32:14 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

The following press release from the Glass Arts Society (G.A.S.)
is provided by the International Guild of Glass Artists (IGGA)
as a service to our members.  This forwarding does not represent
endorsement.

Christie A. Wood-IGGA Exec.Director
Art Glass Ensembles
North Wales, PA USA
-------------Forwarded Message-----------------
From:	INTERNET:glassartsoc@earthlink.net
To:	[unknown], INTERNET:members@igga.org
Date:	02/10/2000  7:13 PM
RE:	2000 Technical Display
 =

It's not too late! You can still make the DEADLINE,
FEBRUARY 15, 2000, for the 2000 Technical Display
Lottery. After February 15, if booth space is still
available, allocations will be made as reservations
are received.

Technical Display is the highlight of every conference!
Don't miss the opportunity to present your products or
services to a targeted market of glass enthusiasts!!!

If you are not planning to get booth space at the
2000 Technical Display you can still reach Glass Art
Society Members by advertising in the Glass Art Society
2000 Resource Guide. Contact G.A.S. for details on
Resource Guide Advertising Information.

To get a Technical Display Reservation form and a map
of booth layout contact the G.A.S. office. All details
about 2000 Technical Display follows.

2000 Glass Art Society Technical Display Information
Glass Art Society 30th Annual Conference
Bridge to the Future
June 8-11, 2000
Brooklyn, New York
One-stop shopping for glass artists and enthusiasts!

Technical Display Location and Hours:
Long Island University Gymnasium (formerly the
Paramount Theater)

Thursday, June 8	12 noon - 5 pm
Friday, June 9	9 am - 5 pm
Saturday, June 10	10 am - 3 pm

Installation:
Wednesday, June 7	9 am - 5 pm
Thursday, June 8	9 am - 11 am

Take-down:
Saturday, June 10	3 pm - 6 pm
Sunday, June 11	9 am - 3 pm

2,000 glass artists, educators, students and
enthusiasts will be there to browse and purchase
the newest and best glass-related supplies and materials.

Booth Fees and Benefits
Booth Fee:		$750
Premium Booth:  	$850
Booth Size: 10 feet by 10 feet.  8-foot high back wall
and 3-foot high side rail.
Cost of each booth includes:
 * Installed pipe and drape display,
   one skirted 6-foot table, 2 chairs, signage, waste basket  =

 *  Full Page Resource Guide Advertisement (value $250)
 *  2 Conference Passes (value $550)

Number of Booths Available:  61 =


Eligibility:
All Technical Display Exhibitors must be current
members of G.A.S.

Display Company
Emerald Convention Services (ECS) will handle all
Technical Display services.  ECS employees must
handle all material entering into the exhibition hall,
and ECS shall designate all labor for this event.
Exhibitors may bring materials which can be hand-carried
into the exhibition hall at no cost to the Exhibitors.
Vendors may make their own arrangement for material.
Emerald Convention Services will have a full-staffed,
supervised service desk set up during installation and
take-down to assist exhibitors..

Deadlines and Dates:
February 15, 2000	Space Reservations and 50% Deposit
	due on Technical Display Booth/Resource Guide Ad
February 21, 2000	Booth Allocation Lottery
February 28, 2000	Notification of Booth Allocation
March 1, 2000	Camera-ready Advertisement Artwork and Final
	Payment deadline

2000 Technical Display Booth Allocation Process

In order to give all who are interested in participating
in the 2000 G.A.S. Technical Display an equal opportunity
to participate, and at the same time reward those who
have exhibited in the past, the following lottery system
will be used:

1)Each customer completes the Technical Display
Reservation Form, stating the number of booths to
reserve, and 3 preferences for booth assignment based
on the map provided.   =


Forms must be received in the G.A.S. Office by
February 15, 2000, along with a deposit of 50% of the
booth fees and a completed Resource Guide Advertising
Submission Form.  PLEASE NOTE THAT WE ARE UNABLE TO
TAKE RESERVATIONS OVER THE PHONE.  WE MUST HAVE YOUR
COMPLETED FORM MAILED OR FAXED TO US.

Your completed and returned form becomes a lottery
ticket with your company's name on it.  =


2)  A lottery ticket will also be prepared for each
year since 1990 that you have exhibited in the G.A.S.
Technical Display.   If you have been a part of
Technical Display since 1990, you will have 10 tickets
and therefore 10 times the chance of getting your first
choice of booth space than a first-time exhibitor.

3)  On February 21, 2000 the staff will assign booths
as the tickets are pulled from the hat.  You will be
assigned your first, second, or third choice, depending
on availability.  If none of your choices are available,
the staff will do its best to assign you to a similar
space. If you paid in full for a Premium Booth but did
not receive one, G.A.S. will promptly refund the difference.

4)   The G.A.S. Office will notify you of your booth
allocation by February 28.  You will then receive an
"Exhibitors Service Kit" with shipping and set-up
information. You can arrange for any of your special
exhibition needs directly with Emerald Convention Services.

After February 21, 2000, if booth space is still available,
allocations will be made as reservations are received.

Cancellation Policy
Before April 15 for full refund
April 16 - May 1 for 50% refund
After May 1 no refund

For additional questions or comments, please contact:

Elizabeth Byrd, Administrative Assistant
(206) 382-1305	FAX: 206- 382-2630   email: GlassArtSoc@earthlink.net

Penny Berk, Executive Director
(206) 382-1305	FAX: 206- 382-2630	email: pberk@earthlink.net

Elizabeth Byrd                        Tel: 206-382-1305
Registrar/Administrative Assistant    Fax: 206-382-2630
Glass Art Society                     Email: glassartsoc@earthlink.net
1305 4th Ave.,Suite 711               Internet: www.glassart.org
Seattle, WA 98101-2401
---------------------------------------------------------
Glass Art Society
Advancing the Appreciation, =

Understanding and Development of the Glass Arts Worldwide=
----
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From owner-glass Fri Feb 11 07:40:01 2000
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X-Path: one.net!kleeman
From: one.net!kleeman
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: spam 
Date: Fri Feb 11 07:04:00 2000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Organization: taylor'd Expressions
Precedence: bulk

hi guys
the xxx rated spam that hit the list the other day was reported to yahoo ..
this is their response

>snip<

Based upon other similar complaints, we have determined that this email
message did not originate from the Yahoo! Mail system.  It appears that
the sender of this message forged the header information to give the
impression that it derived from the Yahoo! Mail system. The "yahoo.com"
address associated with the email does not exist.


debbie

debbie taylor - cincinnati, ohio
* * * * * * * *
kleeman@one.net
(513) 870-9773

Stained Glass Supplies - http://taylordexpressions.safeshopper.com
WATKINS Ind. Rep - business opportunity- http://www.winnersteam.com/djt
FULLERBRUSH Ind Rep - http://www.angelfire.com/oh3/fullerbrush
DRI-WASH 'N GUARD - mailto: kleeman@one.net
Mountain Gourmet - http://http://www.mountaingourmet.com/prem/debbiet


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From owner-glass Fri Feb 11 08:39:44 2000
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X-Path: aol.com!Witchdoc3
From: Witchdoc3@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: another business question
Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 11:19:28 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk


In a message dated 2/10/00 2:32:20 PM, Bobfuses@aol.com writes:

>No one should think that shop keepers do not pass these costs 
>along to us. I used to travel to Saint Croix, USVI, a lot. There, some shops 
>surcharge you for credit card use and my hotel made it plain that a personal
>check was desirable and a credit card would be surcharged.

I haven't seen it lately, but 20-25 years ago it used to be fairly common in 
the US to see statements like "5% discount on cash purchases." I've since 
heard that's no longer legal - various governmental agencies caught on that 
such practices tend to encourage off-the-books shenanigans - but it sure 
looked a lot better psychologically to the customer!


Sparks
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From owner-glass Fri Feb 11 10:10:45 2000
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X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Press Release:UrbanGlass Party!
Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 12:37:33 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

The following is a press release provided as a service
to members of the International Guild of Glass Artists.
It is not an endorsement.

Christie A. Wood-IGGA Exec.Director
Art Glass Ensembles
North Wales, PA USA
--------------------------------
"Glassblowers Ball and Auction Weekend 2000"

Friday, April 7  - Ball & Auction... Now in Manhattan
Sat, April 8        - Demos & glassmaking at UrbanGlass
                  plus exclusive Cocktail party at Heller Gallery
Sun., April 9     - Visits to collectors' homes

For information, call Brett Littman at 718-625-3685 x 239
Auction items available for viewing March 1st at
www.urbanglass.com

UrbanGlass
647 Fulton Street
Brooklyn, NY 11217-1112 USA
----
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From owner-glass Fri Feb 11 13:00:10 2000
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X-Path: OREGON.UOREGON.EDU!soleim
From: Sherrie Soleim <soleim@OREGON.UOREGON.EDU>
To: Stained Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: another business question
Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 10:24:12 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@daver.bungi.com>>
Organization: oregon.uoregon.edu
Precedence: bulk

Me too.  And since I rarely carry my checkbook with me, a vendor who does not accept my
Visa or MC would lose my purchase to someone else who does.  The shop where I do a good
portion of my purchases is a rather small operation, but she would lose out if she did not
accept my Visa debit card.  I would simply go to another store that did.  It is more than
a convenience to me, it's the way I live.

Suzanne Gunn wrote:

> That's how I buy all my glass! ;o)
>
> Suzanne
>
> Bobfuses@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > In a message dated 2/9/00 4:04:48 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> > balloch@netbridge.net writes:
> >
> > > On the other hand it seems so convenient to dealers and customers.
> > >  It must be the wave of the future, my old age is showing.
> >
> > Sure, if you enjoy paying 18% interest! I keep my card clean each month which
> > makes me the exception. Loose about one small sale a year due to not taking
> > credit cards.
> >
> > IMO, if you have to pay for stained glass by credit card you cannot afford it!
> >
> > Bob in 92026
> >
> > Please note change of address from bobdu@prodigy.net to bobfuses@aol.com
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

--
<><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>
Sherrie L. Soleim
University of Oregon
Library Personnel Services
soleim@oregon.uoregon.edu
<><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>
"To succeed in politics, it is often
necessary to rise above your principles."


----
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From owner-glass Sat Feb 12 09:11:47 2000
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X-Path: mindspring.com!pigznpawz
From: "Jerri" <pigznpawz@mindspring.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Discontinued Specturm
Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 19:42:10 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

I'm behind in my bungi messages, so I don't know if anyone's mentioned this
or not.  Today I went by my glass retailer's and found out that Spectrum is
stopping production of two of it's browns (317 and 319) because of
production problems.  I just thought some of you might like to know so that
you can grab a piece or two before it's gone.

Jerri

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From owner-glass Sat Feb 12 10:14:21 2000
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	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #88 built 2000-Feb-12)
X-Path: OREGON.UOREGON.EDU!soleim
From: Sherrie Soleim <soleim@OREGON.UOREGON.EDU>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: spam
Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 10:18:54 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@daver.bungi.com>>
Organization: oregon.uoregon.edu
Precedence: bulk

One more note about that message, my Norton Anti Virus program notified me that the
message was "infected" when I tried to delete it.  If you do not have anit virus software
you could possibly have been infected with a computer virus from that message.

one.net!kleeman@daver.uoregon.edu wrote:

> hi guys
> the xxx rated spam that hit the list the other day was reported to yahoo ..
> this is their response
>
> >snip<
>
> Based upon other similar complaints, we have determined that this email
> message did not originate from the Yahoo! Mail system.  It appears that
> the sender of this message forged the header information to give the
> impression that it derived from the Yahoo! Mail system. The "yahoo.com"
> address associated with the email does not exist.
>
> debbie
>
> debbie taylor - cincinnati, ohio
> * * * * * * * *
> kleeman@one.net
> (513) 870-9773
>
> Stained Glass Supplies - http://taylordexpressions.safeshopper.com
> WATKINS Ind. Rep - business opportunity- http://www.winnersteam.com/djt
> FULLERBRUSH Ind Rep - http://www.angelfire.com/oh3/fullerbrush
> DRI-WASH 'N GUARD - mailto: kleeman@one.net
> Mountain Gourmet - http://http://www.mountaingourmet.com/prem/debbiet
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

--
<><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>
Sherrie L. Soleim
University of Oregon
Library Personnel Services
soleim@oregon.uoregon.edu
<><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>
"To succeed in politics, it is often
necessary to rise above your principles."


----
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From owner-glass Sat Feb 12 10:32:18 2000
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X-Path: gdi.net!shodge
From: Skip Hodge <shodge@gdi.net>
To: Witchdoc3@aol.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: another business question
Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2000 07:50:54 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Sorry Sparks

It is is perfectly legal to offer discounts to your customers for what
ever reason you feel like. People do understand that CC companies fees
are a percentage of the sales. In many cases I have been offered cash
instead of a CC if I agree to extend a 5% discount. I usually turn this
down because my CC discount rate is 1.25% plus $.20 per transaction. 

Skip
Southern Exposure Stained Glass Supply, Inc.
1415  West Colonial Dr.
Winter Grden FL 34787
407-905-9594
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From owner-glass Sat Feb 12 11:01:16 2000
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X-Path: slonet.org!edupjohn
From: "Peggy W. Johnsen" <edupjohn@slonet.org>
To: LMCCDC@aol.com
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: lead and pregnancy
Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 16:15:12 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Hi Lisa:

You asked for any first hand experience on pregnancy and working with
lead.  I did have a pregnant student who signed up for stained glass and I
asked her to first check with her doctor.  The doctor said he could see no
problems if she observed standard safety rules in working with lead.  We
were doing copper foil work.  The baby was born about two weeks after she
finished her course and was the usual perfect and normal baby.  Having
said this, I would certainly make sure a pregnant individual knew the
risks and observed safety considerations.

One thought, perhaps they could do a lot of stained glass work but stay
away from lead and solder until after the baby is born.  Sounds like a
time to do a tiffany lamp.  Peggy

On Mon, 7 Feb 2000 LMCCDC@aol.com wrote:

> Can someone tell me of a good resource for information on working with lead 
> and pregnancy?  Any first-hand experience would be appreciated too. Thanks,
> 
> Lisa
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> 

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From owner-glass Sat Feb 12 13:12:07 2000
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X-Path: heesun.com!keane
From: "Robert & Jeanne" <keane@heesun.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re:Lead and Pregnancy
Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2000 15:38:19 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Organization: Hee Sun Stained Glass, LTD.
Precedence: bulk

We don't allow pregnant women to take the stained glass classes, rather we
lean them toward a mosaics class and then after the baby is born they
usually end up in a beginners stained glass class.
This is just our practice.

Robert
Hee Sun Stained Glass, Ltd.
324 Main Street
Reisterstown , MD 21136
410-833-3007
http://www.heesun.com
Custom Design Studio ,Supplies & Classes for Stained & Fused Glass & Mosaics

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From owner-glass Sat Feb 12 19:34:13 2000
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X-Path: home.com!cecnralph
From: Cecily and Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
To: Jerri <pigznpawz@mindspring.com>, Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Subject: Re: Discontinued Specturm
Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2000 21:38:01 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Organization: Grendel Studios
Precedence: bulk

That's "root beer" and they've been making it for a long time.  I thought it
was one of their more popular items.  Is this just a temporary stoppage?  Like
one of their pots (crucibles) on the line failed before it's time?  Boy - I
just bought half a sheet of 319.2 today to match something I'm restoring -
guess I was lucky.  Jack Meredith (Meredith Stained Glass - used to be Laurel
and now is Silver Spring, MD) just went up to New York Wednesday and came back
with what I needed and he didn't say anything about it going out of
production.

Jerri wrote:

> I'm behind in my bungi messages, so I don't know if anyone's mentioned this
> or not.  Today I went by my glass retailer's and found out that Spectrum is
> stopping production of two of it's browns (317 and 319) because of
> production problems.  I just thought some of you might like to know so that
> you can grab a piece or two before it's gone.
>
> Jerri
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

--
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************


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From owner-glass Sat Feb 12 20:15:42 2000
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X-Path: one.net!gwood
From: one.net!gwood
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Discontinued Specturm
Date: Sat Feb 12 20:04:07 2000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

>From Spectrum Score #70... (& not really with their permission.  Don't turn
me in.)

This is a classic bad news/ good news story. The bad
news is that we have had to discontinue a couple of
very popular colors: the two dark ambers, 317-6s
and 319-6s. Though both of these items have always been
in high-demand and very good sellers, they've been a
monumental struggle to for us to produce. As such, they
were rarely in stock.  The trouble with these dark amber mixes
stems from their tendency to be very gaseous. This extra
bubbling leads to an unacceptable amount of seediness.
Not just too seedy to call standard, but too seedy to even cut!
OK, now for the good news! We're conducting crucible
melts daily to come up with a series of browns that will fill
the holes left in your palette. These will be browns rather
than dark ambers, but they should fulfil the same type of
needs. Progress looks good! We apologize for the
inconvenience but we're working to get these new colors
in your hands just as soon as possible. Keep watching for
reports on our progress!



From: Cecily and Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>


> That's "root beer" and they've been making it for a long time.  I thought
it
> was one of their more popular items.  Is this just a temporary stoppage?
Like
> one of their pots (crucibles) on the line failed before it's time?  Boy -
I
> just bought half a sheet of 319.2 today to match something I'm restoring -
> guess I was lucky.  Jack Meredith (Meredith Stained Glass - used to be
Laurel
> and now is Silver Spring, MD) just went up to New York Wednesday and came
back
> with what I needed and he didn't say anything about it going out of
> production.
>
> Jerri wrote:
>
> > I'm behind in my bungi messages, so I don't know if anyone's mentioned
this
> > or not.  Today I went by my glass retailer's and found out that Spectrum
is
> > stopping production of two of it's browns (317 and 319) because of
> > production problems.  I just thought some of you might like to know so
that
> > you can grab a piece or two before it's gone.
> >
> > Jerri


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From owner-glass Sat Feb 12 22:52:22 2000
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	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #90 built 2000-Feb-12)
X-Path: ilnk.com!andor
From: "Linda Jo Letscher" <andor@ilnk.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: Discontinued Specturm
Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2000 23:24:03 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Debbie,

I saw that in Spectrum's e-mail last night.  I guess Jack Meridith just
didn't get the total scoop when he went to New York.  KSee had better whip
him into shape.  :-)

Cecily, if they are shutting down for any reason, lucky you got what you
needed.
There are probably 5,000 cases around to be snatched up that were already
produced before shutting down.  It if is that popular it will be back.

Rest assured something I zero in, will be the only one they discontinue.
Linda Jo

-----Original Message-----
From: daver!one.net!gwood <daver!one.net!gwood>
To: glass@bungi.com <glass@bungi.com>
Date: Saturday, February 12, 2000 11:24 PM
Subject: Re: Discontinued Specturm


>>From Spectrum Score #70... (& not really with their permission.  Don't
turn
>me in.)
>
>This is a classic bad news/ good news story. The bad
>news is that we have had to discontinue a couple of
>very popular colors: the two dark ambers, 317-6s
>and 319-6s. Though both of these items have always been
>in high-demand and very good sellers, they've been a
>monumental struggle to for us to produce. As such, they
>were rarely in stock.  The trouble with these dark amber mixes
>stems from their tendency to be very gaseous. This extra
>bubbling leads to an unacceptable amount of seediness.
>Not just too seedy to call standard, but too seedy to even cut!
>OK, now for the good news! We're conducting crucible
>melts daily to come up with a series of browns that will fill
>the holes left in your palette. These will be browns rather
>than dark ambers, but they should fulfil the same type of
>needs. Progress looks good! We apologize for the
>inconvenience but we're working to get these new colors
>in your hands just as soon as possible. Keep watching for
>reports on our progress!
>
>
>
>From: Cecily and Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
>
>
>> That's "root beer" and they've been making it for a long time.  I thought
>it
>> was one of their more popular items.  Is this just a temporary stoppage?
>Like
>> one of their pots (crucibles) on the line failed before it's time?  Boy -
>I
>> just bought half a sheet of 319.2 today to match something I'm
restoring -
>> guess I was lucky.  Jack Meredith (Meredith Stained Glass - used to be
>Laurel
>> and now is Silver Spring, MD) just went up to New York Wednesday and came
>back
>> with what I needed and he didn't say anything about it going out of
>> production.
>>
>> Jerri wrote:
>>
>> > I'm behind in my bungi messages, so I don't know if anyone's mentioned
>this
>> > or not.  Today I went by my glass retailer's and found out that
Spectrum
>is
>> > stopping production of two of it's browns (317 and 319) because of
>> > production problems.  I just thought some of you might like to know so
>that
>> > you can grab a piece or two before it's gone.
>> >
>> > Jerri
>
>
>----
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>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


----
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From owner-glass Sun Feb 13 06:00:24 2000
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X-Path: prodigy.net!cctrice
From: "Charlie Trice" <cctrice@prodigy.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Visa/MC vs. AmEx
Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2000 08:30:52 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

"By the way be sure to bring your Visa or Master Card Because at (snip)
... we don't take American Express."

Since all I use is American Express, I'll never buy from you or anyone else
using that phrase.  I can find plenty of places accepting AmEx and will
spend my money there.

FWIW,

Charlie in Miami  (here we go...)



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From owner-glass Sun Feb 13 08:04:38 2000
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X-Path: america.net!ddhess
From: Dina and Don Hess <ddhess@america.net>
To: Charlie Trice <cctrice@prodigy.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Visa/MC vs. AmEx
Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2000 09:42:45 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

I can't restrain my curiosity -- why is it that all you use is AmEx? 
Every time I get a cc offer from them, I end up throwing it out, because
their terms look so lousy compared to Visa/MC.  They always want a huge
annual fee, usually $75/yr, whereas the only cards I carry are
fee-free.  Do they have fee-free ones out there that they just don't
market as heavily?

Charlie Trice wrote:
> 
> "By the way be sure to bring your Visa or Master Card Because at (snip)
> ... we don't take American Express."
> 
> Since all I use is American Express, I'll never buy from you or anyone else
> using that phrase.  I can find plenty of places accepting AmEx and will
> spend my money there.
> 
> FWIW,
> 
> Charlie in Miami  (here we go...)
> 
> ----
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From owner-glass Sun Feb 13 10:39:32 2000
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X-Path: vsnl.com!niksang
From: "NIKHIL" <niksang@vsnl.com>
To: "GLASS" <GLASS@BUNGI.COM>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Subject: Gatewayed mail message
Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 00:12:39 +0530
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0006_01BF7680.34A0AD20
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

We are manufacturers of trophies and small gift items using etched
glass. We use the photoresist technique to etch our glasses. We are
interested in=20
1. Building a glass polishing, bevelling equipment for the small glass
pieces.
2. Glass bending kiln again for the small pieces.
    As we are from India, we would prefer to get details of the =
equipment
so that we can source/fabricate in India itself. As purchasing the same
from else where would make it very expensive. Also, we want to venture =
into
exports and are looking out for advise and interested party's in buying =
our
products. Our product quality is very good and the pricing is very
competitive.
Regards
Nikhil

------=_NextPart_000_0006_01BF7680.34A0AD20
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>We are manufacturers of trophies and small gift items using=20
etched<BR>glass. We use the photoresist technique to etch our glasses. =
We=20
are<BR>interested in <BR>1. Building a glass polishing, bevelling =
equipment for=20
the small glass<BR>pieces.<BR>2. Glass bending kiln again for the small=20
pieces.<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; As we are from India, we would prefer to =
get=20
details of the equipment<BR>so that we can source/fabricate in India =
itself. As=20
purchasing the same<BR>from else where would make it very expensive. =
Also, we=20
want to venture into<BR>exports and are looking out for advise and =
interested=20
party's in buying our<BR>products. Our product quality is very good and =
the=20
pricing is very<BR>competitive.<BR><FONT size=3D2>Regards</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Nikhil</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0006_01BF7680.34A0AD20--

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From owner-glass Sun Feb 13 19:02:29 2000
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X-Path: discover.earthlink.net!leslye2
From: Leslye Nelson <leslye2@earthlink.net>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: removing cement
Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2000 19:17:32 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

I made a beautiful, simple panel out of black Baroque glass and bevel.
It was striking with the swirls continuous throughout the glass. Then I
discovered that the lower right piece of Baroque was cracked!  Argh!!!
I have taken it apart, will recut the Baroque and reconstruct it.
My question is what is the best way of removing the cement that is still
attached to the bevel?  I don't want to scrape it off because I will
probably scrape the bevel with my luck.  Any ideas?
Thanks,
Leslye

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From owner-glass Mon Feb 14 09:03:18 2000
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X-Path: ilnk.com!andor
From: "Linda Jo Letscher" <andor@ilnk.com>
To: "Bungi" <Glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Howard?
Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 11:43:30 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Howard, I have lost the link to your web page with pictures of your
wonderful lamps.
Would you post it or send it to me.
Thanks,
Linda Jo


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From owner-glass Mon Feb 14 10:20:28 2000
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X-Path: juno.com!mschatee
From: mschatee@juno.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Artists Collaboration
Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 10:02:40 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Several months ago I was talking about my grandmother who is an artist
and someone, I wish I could remember who, suggested I collaborate with
her and do her artwork in stained glass.  Well several months
later....it's done.  I am proud to say I took a drawing that she made for
me about 10 years ago, reworked the lines and made it.  It was actually
easier than I thought it would be.  THe hardest part was deciding what
not to put in and what glass to use.  My grandmothers style is very
ecclectic and she uses many colors and designs, since glass doesn't come
in print patterns I had to find a combination of colors that reflected
her style.
Now my grandmother is going to be 86 in 2 weeks and since I am flying to
Florida on Saturday to visit with her I am going to give her the piece.  
Has anyone had any trouble taking a stained glass panel as carry on on a
plane.  It measures 16" x 19".  I figure if I bubble wrap it and put it
in flat cardboard it should be safe as long as they let me bring it on. 
Any feedback on this?

I have a picture of this piece, it's not a great picture and doesn't show
all the colors too great, but if anyone would like to see it email me at
MsChatee@aol.com and I will be glad to share it with you.  I have it in
AOL Buddy pictures so you won't have to download it.

Thanks again to whoever it was that made the initial suggestion to
collaborate, my family is thrilled to have her artwork preserved in yet
one more medium.
Thanks,
Caren

________________________________________________________________
YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET!
Juno now offers FREE Internet Access!
Try it today - there's no risk!  For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
----
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From owner-glass Mon Feb 14 10:50:51 2000
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	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #94 built 2000-Feb-14)
X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Press Release:Offinger's Handcrafted Marketplaces web site
Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 13:41:08 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

The following press release is provided as a service to the members
of the International Guild of Glass Artists.  It is not an endorsement.

Christie A. Wood-IGGA Exec.Director
Art Glass Ensembles
North Wales, PA USA
---------------------------------
New Web Site for Offinger's Handcrafted Marketplaces

Offinger's Handcrafted Marketplaces, markets in Ohio and
Missouri exclusively for the trade and featuring quality
handcrafted products, recently introduced their new web
site.  According to Show Manager Denise Brosie, "Every
aspect of our marketplaces can be obtained through this
new site.  Whether looking for show dates and locations,
hours, an exhibitor application, directions, attendee
registration information, the site provides all the essential
information."

Previewed on the new web site are:
- Offinger's Handcrafted Marketplace, March 19-20
  Veterans Memorial Building, Columbus, OH
- Offinger's Handcrafted Marketplace, June 3-4
  Kansas City Market Center, Kansas City, MO
- Offinger's Handcrafted Marketplace, August 19-20
  Veterans Memorial Building, Columbus, OH

For more information, visit the new web site at
www.offinger.com/hancrafted or contact Offinger Management,
P.O. Box 3388, Zanesville, OH USA 43702-3388, phone 740-
452-4541 or 1-888-878-GIFT (4438), fax 740-452-2552;
email: gift @offinger.com
----
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From owner-glass Mon Feb 14 11:02:46 2000
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X-Path: HOTMAIL.COM!GL53368
From: <GL53368@HOTMAIL.COM>
To: GL53368@HOTMAIL.COM
Subject: YOU ARE GOING ON VACATION!!
Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 10:52:36 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk




You have been selected to ENTER!

PACK YOUR BAGS YOU'RE GOING TO THE BAHAMAS!

4days/3nights in West Palm Beach.
A 3 day cruise to Nassau, Bahamas aboard the Imperial Majesty cruise lines.
3days/2nights in Orlando.
3days/2nights in Branson MO.
3days/2nights in Williamsburg Virginia.
3days/2nights in Las Vegas Nevada.

                                    CLICK HERE!
                   http://2742890245
















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We are linked to plenty of websites that offer free subscriptions to our mailing list.
You are on our mailing list because you have subscribed at one of our associate web sites, 
sent us email or we have a previous online relationship. This is a one time mailing to 
qualified individuals and if you request to have your email address removed from our list 
please reply to advisor@ffcipromo.com with the word REMOVE included. Your request to be 
removed will be evaluated and executed within 24 hours. God bless, have a great day!
********************************************************************************************












































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From owner-glass Mon Feb 14 12:35:09 2000
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X-Path: juno.com!mschatee
From: mschatee@juno.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Glass picture
Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 15:04:03 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Jim suggested I post the url to the picture of my grandmothers artwork. 
But it's in AOL Buddy pictures and only the people that I list  can
access it.  It certainly would be easier but from an AOL Perspective I
don't think I can do it.  It's not too difficult, so if anyone wants it
just email me at MsChatee@aol.com.
Thanks for all the feedback so far.  I can't wait till my grandmother
sees it.

Caren

________________________________________________________________
YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET!
Juno now offers FREE Internet Access!
Try it today - there's no risk!  For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
----
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From owner-glass Mon Feb 14 16:27:14 2000
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X-Path: aol.com!BMarhon
From: BMarhon@aol.com
To: mschatee@juno.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: Glass picture
Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 19:06:19 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hi Caren,
Why don't you post it at photopoint.com?  It's really easy and then you could 
just give us the password and we could all look at it.  Photopoint is free 
and really easy to use.   I found it when I was looking for a way to share 
photos of my pregnant daughter and stuff I was buying for her and our ISPs 
just weren't compatible for sending pictures back and forth.  Just a 
suggestion!
Brenda Marhon

<< Jim suggested I post the url to the picture of my grandmothers artwork. 
 But it's in AOL Buddy pictures and only the people that I list  can
 access it.  It certainly would be easier but from an AOL Perspective I
 don't think I can do it.  It's not too difficult, so if anyone wants it
 just email me at MsChatee@aol.com.
 Thanks for all the feedback so far.  I can't wait till my grandmother
 sees it. >>
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From owner-glass Mon Feb 14 19:33:23 2000
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	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #94 built 2000-Feb-14)
X-Path: home.com!cecnralph
From: Cecily and Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
To: mschatee@juno.com, Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Subject: Re: Artists Collaboration
Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 22:24:53 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Organization: Grendel Studios
Precedence: bulk

I took a stained glass panel to LA and another to London.  My husband made a
wooden box using 1" x 3" wood as the edging, and 1/8" masonite as the
sides.  He cut the edging from scrap lumber so that is an aproximation of
the wood size.  The top panel of masonite was screwed on, and we carefully
wrapped the stained glass panel[s] in bubble wrap and made certain the
contents didn't shift at all by stuffing paper?  more bubble wrap? something
in any remaining spaces.  (We also used that box to bring back some
handblown glass from Hetley's in London.)  We put the box inside my
husband's suitcase which was crammed with clothes - again making sure it was
padded on all sides.  No damage to anything on any journey. - Cec

mschatee@juno.com wrote:

> Several months ago I was talking about my grandmother who is an artist
> and someone, I wish I could remember who, suggested I collaborate with
> her and do her artwork in stained glass.  Well several months
> later....it's done.  I am proud to say I took a drawing that she made for
> me about 10 years ago, reworked the lines and made it.  It was actually
> easier than I thought it would be.  THe hardest part was deciding what
> not to put in and what glass to use.  My grandmothers style is very
> ecclectic and she uses many colors and designs, since glass doesn't come
> in print patterns I had to find a combination of colors that reflected
> her style.
> Now my grandmother is going to be 86 in 2 weeks and since I am flying to
> Florida on Saturday to visit with her I am going to give her the piece.
> Has anyone had any trouble taking a stained glass panel as carry on on a
> plane.  It measures 16" x 19".  I figure if I bubble wrap it and put it
> in flat cardboard it should be safe as long as they let me bring it on.
> Any feedback on this?
>
> I have a picture of this piece, it's not a great picture and doesn't show
> all the colors too great, but if anyone would like to see it email me at
> MsChatee@aol.com and I will be glad to share it with you.  I have it in
> AOL Buddy pictures so you won't have to download it.
>
> Thanks again to whoever it was that made the initial suggestion to
> collaborate, my family is thrilled to have her artwork preserved in yet
> one more medium.
> Thanks,
> Caren
>
> ________________________________________________________________
> YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET!
> Juno now offers FREE Internet Access!
> Try it today - there's no risk!  For your FREE software, visit:
> http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

--
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************


----
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From owner-glass Mon Feb 14 21:24:24 2000
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	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #94 built 2000-Feb-14)
X-Path: home.com!jimstew
From: jimstew@home.com
To: geoffs@onr.com
Subject: The Jassen.com ChemMall
Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 21:03:33 -0800
Message-ID: <20000215050332.FMVT21114.mail.rdc1.va.home.com@cr604783-a>
Precedence: bulk


Information as requested:

"The Jassen.com ChemMall enables you to search, locate and instantly order the specialty chemical cleaning and maintenance products you need directly from our associates online stores."

http://www.jassen.com/index.htm

mailto:info@jassen.com
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From owner-glass Mon Feb 14 22:03:42 2000
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	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #95 built 2000-Feb-14)
X-Path: terra.com.pe!ivargas
From: "Ivette Vargas" <ivargas@terra.com.pe>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: RV: YOU ARE GOING ON VACATION!!
Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 00:58:21 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Organization: Cirujano Dentista
Precedence: bulk

I Have received this message, does some of you know that means? or is a
joke?

Greetings to all

Ivette Vargas
Lima, Peru


----- Original Message -----
From: <GL53368@HOTMAIL.COM>
To: <GL53368@HOTMAIL.COM>
Sent: Monday, February 14, 2000 1:52 PM
Subject: YOU ARE GOING ON VACATION!!


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From owner-glass Tue Feb 15 07:01:15 2000
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X-Path: MAIL.AOC.STATE.KY.US!KitW
From: "Walden, Kit" <KitW@MAIL.AOC.STATE.KY.US>
To: mschatee@juno.com, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: RE: Artists Collaboration
Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 09:37:46 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hi Caren,

I would definitely wrap it in more than bubble wrap and cardboard.  Although
it isn't large, it will still need the support and structure, and I
recommend you use a hard-sided suitcase or get a wooden crate built.  We
made a 2'x3' window for my sister's wedding last year and carried it to
Ireland.  Fortunately my sister's boyfriend made a wooden crate and foamed
the inside.  The airlines were wonderful about letting us do last on, first
off on each flight.   At 16" x 19", you should probably be able to carry it
onboard, but why risk breakage?

good luck!

kit
Tuilelaith's Stained Glass
> -----Original Message-----
> From:	mschatee@juno.com [SMTP:mschatee@juno.com]
> Sent:	Monday, February 14, 2000 10:03 AM
> To:	glass@bungi.com
> Subject:	Artists Collaboration
> 
> Several months ago I was talking about my grandmother who is an artist
> and someone, I wish I could remember who, suggested I collaborate with
> her and do her artwork in stained glass.  Well several months
> later....it's done.  I am proud to say I took a drawing that she made for
> me about 10 years ago, reworked the lines and made it.  It was actually
> easier than I thought it would be.  THe hardest part was deciding what
> not to put in and what glass to use.  My grandmothers style is very
> ecclectic and she uses many colors and designs, since glass doesn't come
> in print patterns I had to find a combination of colors that reflected
> her style.
> Now my grandmother is going to be 86 in 2 weeks and since I am flying to
> Florida on Saturday to visit with her I am going to give her the piece.  
> Has anyone had any trouble taking a stained glass panel as carry on on a
> plane.  It measures 16" x 19".  I figure if I bubble wrap it and put it
> in flat cardboard it should be safe as long as they let me bring it on. 
> Any feedback on this?
> 
> I have a picture of this piece, it's not a great picture and doesn't show
> all the colors too great, but if anyone would like to see it email me at
> MsChatee@aol.com and I will be glad to share it with you.  I have it in
> AOL Buddy pictures so you won't have to download it.
> 
> Thanks again to whoever it was that made the initial suggestion to
> collaborate, my family is thrilled to have her artwork preserved in yet
> one more medium.
> Thanks,
> Caren
> 
> ________________________________________________________________
> YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET!
> Juno now offers FREE Internet Access!
> Try it today - there's no risk!  For your FREE software, visit:
> http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
----
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From owner-glass Tue Feb 15 10:24:20 2000
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X-Path: myrealbox.com!1889
From: 1889@myrealbox.com
To: <2642@myrealbox.com>
Subject: Hot CD Rom
Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 03:41:14 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

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From owner-glass Tue Feb 15 11:22:31 2000
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	for rglass-42; Tue, 15 Feb 2000 11:01:40 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #97 built 2000-Feb-15)
X-Path: stratus.com!Charlie_Spitzer
From: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie_Spitzer@stratus.com>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: FW: Artists Collaboration
Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 11:12:42 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

i once took a leaded 18"x24" panel across the country via air. i wrapped it
in small bubble bubblewrap, sandwiched it with 2 pieces of 1/2" plywood,
screwed the wood together, and put paper around it. i took it carry-on, and
placed it vertically in the hanging garment bag locker in first class.
you'll want to make sure you fly on a large plane, as the smaller ones don't
have one of these. there's also a thin place behind the last row of first
class seats against the bulkhead that can be used for this. with the
crackdown on large items in recent months, you may have trouble getting it
as carry-on now. i moved mine about 6 years ago.

make sure you look at it under the xray. i drew a large crowd of security
people who thought it was really interesting.

regards,
charlie
phx, az

-----Original Message-----
From: mschatee@juno.com [mailto:mschatee@juno.com] 
Sent: Monday, February 14, 2000 8:03 AM
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Artists Collaboration


Several months ago I was talking about my grandmother who is an artist
and someone, I wish I could remember who, suggested I collaborate with
her and do her artwork in stained glass.  Well several months
later....it's done.  I am proud to say I took a drawing that she made for
me about 10 years ago, reworked the lines and made it.  It was actually
easier than I thought it would be.  THe hardest part was deciding what
not to put in and what glass to use.  My grandmothers style is very
ecclectic and she uses many colors and designs, since glass doesn't come
in print patterns I had to find a combination of colors that reflected
her style.
Now my grandmother is going to be 86 in 2 weeks and since I am flying to
Florida on Saturday to visit with her I am going to give her the piece.  
Has anyone had any trouble taking a stained glass panel as carry on on a
plane.  It measures 16" x 19".  I figure if I bubble wrap it and put it
in flat cardboard it should be safe as long as they let me bring it on. 
Any feedback on this?

I have a picture of this piece, it's not a great picture and doesn't show
all the colors too great, but if anyone would like to see it email me at
MsChatee@aol.com and I will be glad to share it with you.  I have it in
AOL Buddy pictures so you won't have to download it.

Thanks again to whoever it was that made the initial suggestion to
collaborate, my family is thrilled to have her artwork preserved in yet
one more medium.
Thanks,
Caren
----
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To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
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From owner-glass Tue Feb 15 18:30:06 2000
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	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #97 built 2000-Feb-15)
X-Path: netbridge.net!balloch
From: Shirley Balloch <balloch@netbridge.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Another business question
Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 18:29:14 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Organization: Maiden Concepts
Precedence: bulk

Hello groups,
Does anyone know of a really inexpensive place to buy packing peanuts?
Thanks in advance.
Shirley B
----
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From owner-glass Wed Feb 16 06:58:50 2000
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	for rglass-42; Wed, 16 Feb 2000 06:35:19 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #97 built 2000-Feb-15)
X-Path: ll.mit.edu!cogen
From: David Cogen <cogen@ll.mit.edu>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Credit Card Merchant Account Recommendations
Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 09:32:28 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <200002161432.JAA09861@ll.mit.edu>
Precedence: bulk

My wife's business is lampworked glass beads. (See www.nancytobey.com.)

We are in need of ability to process credit-card orders at craft shows, phone
orders, etc. We anticipate up to a few thousand $ in sales on certain months,
with $0 in sales for some months. I'm looking into this but am overwhelmed by
the results of my web search, with no way to know who to trust, etc. (I am
naturally a suspicious person, but when it comes to web advertisers I know
that, as often as not, the suspicion is warranted!)

So, I am hoping to get some specfic recommendations from actual users, in
similar business situations as our own, as to a reputable, very-low-cost
company that we could use?

We would need swipe capability (auto dialing, plug into phone outlet), as well
as key number entry. An automated phone-in number would be desirable for those
times when a sale is made when we don't have the machine with us.

Is purchasing a machine as opposed to leasing a good idea? Do the machines
become obsolete? Can a machine purchased for use with one processing company
be made to work with a different company should we decide to change?

Thanks for advice. I trust you actual craft people much more than a nameless
web advertizer. (I guess I should try calling local banks too?)

-- David C
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From owner-glass Wed Feb 16 07:31:19 2000
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X-Path: home.com!lorley
From: Lorley Oneyear <lorley@home.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: side light
Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 07:59:05 -0700
Message-ID: <20000216150338.VOFO3015.mail.rdc1.az.home.com@cx795941-a>
Precedence: bulk

Hello Bungi group,  Thinking of doing my front door's side light. It is 6
inches across and almost 6 feet high. I will probably do it in foil. Will I
need to reinforce this side light? 

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From owner-glass Wed Feb 16 09:01:19 2000
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X-Path: GSA-ORSP.CROWN.NWU.EDU!kaye
From: "Kaye Sodt" <kaye@GSA-ORSP.CROWN.NWU.EDU>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Another business question
Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 09:42:10 CST 6CDT
Message-ID: <200002161543.JAA03149@pineyard.acns.nwu.edu>
Organization: GSA-ORSP
Precedence: bulk

Boy, Shirley, wish you were closer!  I've several trash bags full of them in 
my basement that I'd *love* to get rid of!  (I keep meaning to search 
out a recycling place.....)

Kaye
---------------------
Does anyone know of a really inexpensive place to buy packing 
peanuts?
Thanks in advance.
Shirley B

----
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From owner-glass Wed Feb 16 09:34:52 2000
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X-Path: yahoo.com!rg_keane
From: HeeSun StainedGlass <rg_keane@yahoo.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Maryland Invitation
Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 08:51:33 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Just wanted to pass along an invitation once again to
all who are in MD or close to us to drop in this
Saturday from 12 - 7 PM for our Anniversary sale &
Customer Appreciation Day.  If you want more
information check out
http://www.heesun.com/anniversary.htm

Robert 
Hee Sun Stained Glass, LTD.
324 Main Street 
Reisterstown, MD 21136
410-833-3007

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com
----
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From owner-glass Wed Feb 16 11:02:18 2000
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X-Path: ilnk.com!andor
From: "Linda Jo Letscher" <andor@ilnk.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: Maryland Invitation
Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 13:43:57 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Robert,
Hope you have a wonderful turn out.  Wish I was up your way so I could drop
in.  Mabye in August.  :-)  Happy Anniversary!!
Linda Jo

-----Original Message-----
From: HeeSun StainedGlass <rg_keane@yahoo.com>
To: glass@bungi.com <glass@bungi.com>
Date: Wednesday, February 16, 2000 12:46 PM
Subject: Maryland Invitation


>Just wanted to pass along an invitation once again to
>all who are in MD or close to us to drop in this
>Saturday from 12 - 7 PM for our Anniversary sale &
>Customer Appreciation Day.  If you want more
>information check out
>http://www.heesun.com/anniversary.htm
>
>Robert
>Hee Sun Stained Glass, LTD.
>324 Main Street
>Reisterstown, MD 21136
>410-833-3007
>
>__________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
>Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
>http://im.yahoo.com
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


----
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From owner-glass Wed Feb 16 11:06:38 2000
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X-Path: us.arthurandersen.com!bethanie.l.b.brown
From: bethanie.l.b.brown@us.arthurandersen.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Polystyrene Peanut Recycling
Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 12:40:50 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk



I just got this phone number in a package last night --

Call 1-800-828-2214 for the nearest Peanut Hotline Collection Site. This number
is valid for sites around the U.S.

....Bethanie....



Boy, Shirley, wish you were closer!  I've several trash bags full of them in
my basement that I'd *love* to get rid of!  (I keep meaning to search
out a recycling place.....)

Kaye
---------------------
Does anyone know of a really inexpensive place to buy packing
peanuts?
Thanks in advance.
Shirley B

*******************Internet Email Confidentiality Footer*******************


Privileged/Confidential Information may be contained in this message.  If you
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From owner-glass Wed Feb 16 12:03:08 2000
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X-Path: thebeach.mv.com!Nancy
From: "Nancy Mullins" <Nancy@thebeach.mv.com>
To: <bethanie.l.b.brown@us.arthurandersen.com>, <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Polystyrene Peanut Recycling
Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 14:56:31 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Most mailing centers will take your used peanuts!  Some
will even give store credit!
~ Nancy Mullins
~ Concord, NH
~ Homepage http://thebeach.ne.mediaone.net
~ ICQ # 2974287
~ Don't give someone a job to do and tell them how to do
it, give it to them and watch how they do it!
----- Original Message -----
From: <bethanie.l.b.brown@us.arthurandersen.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 16, 2000 12:40 PM
Subject: Polystyrene Peanut Recycling


>
>
> I just got this phone number in a package last
night --
>
> Call 1-800-828-2214 for the nearest Peanut Hotline
Collection Site. This number
> is valid for sites around the U.S.
>
> ....Bethanie....
>
>
>
> Boy, Shirley, wish you were closer!  I've several
trash bags full of them in
> my basement that I'd *love* to get rid of!  (I keep
meaning to search
> out a recycling place.....)
>
> Kaye
> ---------------------
> Does anyone know of a really inexpensive place to buy
packing
> peanuts?
> Thanks in advance.
> Shirley B
>
> *******************Internet Email Confidentiality
Footer*******************
>
>
> Privileged/Confidential Information may be contained
in this message.  If you
> are not the addressee indicated in this message (or
responsible for delivery of
> the message to such person), you may not copy or
deliver this message to anyone.
> In such case, you should destroy this message and
kindly notify the sender by
> reply email. Please advise immediately if you or your
employer do not consent to
> Internet email for messages of this kind.  Opinions,
conclusions and other
> information in this message that do not relate to the
official business of my
> firm shall be understood as neither given nor endorsed
by it.
>
>
> ----
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glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to:
glass@bungi.com
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>

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From owner-glass Wed Feb 16 12:12:22 2000
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	via smail with stdio
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	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #97 built 2000-Feb-15)
X-Path: thebeach.mv.com!Nancy
From: "Nancy Mullins" <Nancy@thebeach.mv.com>
To: <bethanie.l.b.brown@us.arthurandersen.com>, <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Polystyrene Peanut Recycling
Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 14:56:31 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Most mailing centers will take your used peanuts!  Some
will even give store credit!
~ Nancy Mullins
~ Concord, NH
~ Homepage http://thebeach.ne.mediaone.net
~ ICQ # 2974287
~ Don't give someone a job to do and tell them how to do
it, give it to them and watch how they do it!
----- Original Message -----
From: <bethanie.l.b.brown@us.arthurandersen.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 16, 2000 12:40 PM
Subject: Polystyrene Peanut Recycling


>
>
> I just got this phone number in a package last
night --
>
> Call 1-800-828-2214 for the nearest Peanut Hotline
Collection Site. This number
> is valid for sites around the U.S.
>
> ....Bethanie....
>
>
>
> Boy, Shirley, wish you were closer!  I've several
trash bags full of them in
> my basement that I'd *love* to get rid of!  (I keep
meaning to search
> out a recycling place.....)
>
> Kaye
> ---------------------
> Does anyone know of a really inexpensive place to buy
packing
> peanuts?
> Thanks in advance.
> Shirley B
>
> *******************Internet Email Confidentiality
Footer*******************
>
>
> Privileged/Confidential Information may be contained
in this message.  If you
> are not the addressee indicated in this message (or
responsible for delivery of
> the message to such person), you may not copy or
deliver this message to anyone.
> In such case, you should destroy this message and
kindly notify the sender by
> reply email. Please advise immediately if you or your
employer do not consent to
> Internet email for messages of this kind.  Opinions,
conclusions and other
> information in this message that do not relate to the
official business of my
> firm shall be understood as neither given nor endorsed
by it.
>
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to:
glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to:
glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>

----
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From owner-glass Wed Feb 16 12:22:49 2000
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	for rglass-42; Wed, 16 Feb 2000 11:57:32 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #97 built 2000-Feb-15)
X-Path: thebeach.mv.com!Nancy
From: "Nancy Mullins" <Nancy@thebeach.mv.com>
To: <bethanie.l.b.brown@us.arthurandersen.com>, <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Polystyrene Peanut Recycling
Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 14:56:31 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Most mailing centers will take your used peanuts!  Some
will even give store credit!
~ Nancy Mullins
~ Concord, NH
~ Homepage http://thebeach.ne.mediaone.net
~ ICQ # 2974287
~ Don't give someone a job to do and tell them how to do
it, give it to them and watch how they do it!
----- Original Message -----
From: <bethanie.l.b.brown@us.arthurandersen.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 16, 2000 12:40 PM
Subject: Polystyrene Peanut Recycling


>
>
> I just got this phone number in a package last
night --
>
> Call 1-800-828-2214 for the nearest Peanut Hotline
Collection Site. This number
> is valid for sites around the U.S.
>
> ....Bethanie....
>
>
>
> Boy, Shirley, wish you were closer!  I've several
trash bags full of them in
> my basement that I'd *love* to get rid of!  (I keep
meaning to search
> out a recycling place.....)
>
> Kaye
> ---------------------
> Does anyone know of a really inexpensive place to buy
packing
> peanuts?
> Thanks in advance.
> Shirley B
>
> *******************Internet Email Confidentiality
Footer*******************
>
>
> Privileged/Confidential Information may be contained
in this message.  If you
> are not the addressee indicated in this message (or
responsible for delivery of
> the message to such person), you may not copy or
deliver this message to anyone.
> In such case, you should destroy this message and
kindly notify the sender by
> reply email. Please advise immediately if you or your
employer do not consent to
> Internet email for messages of this kind.  Opinions,
conclusions and other
> information in this message that do not relate to the
official business of my
> firm shall be understood as neither given nor endorsed
by it.
>
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to:
glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to:
glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>

----
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Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Wed Feb 16 12:32:07 2000
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
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	for rglass-42; Wed, 16 Feb 2000 12:06:11 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #97 built 2000-Feb-15)
X-Path: yahoo.com!rg_keane
From: HeeSun StainedGlass <rg_keane@yahoo.com>
To: Dee Thompson <deethom@erols.com>, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Maryland Invitation
Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 12:03:09 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Check out our website for complete directions whether
you are coming from the north or south. It should be
fun and there is always ALOT to eat and see & this
year there are a lot of free give aways. Hope to see
everyone there. If this is not enough information on
how to get here - just let me know & I'll get more
info for you.

http://www.heesun.com/directions.html

--- Dee Thompson <deethom@erols.com> wrote:
> 
> can you give directions from the beltway?  I'm in
> Savage and am totally
> lost up your way..
> Thanks Dee
> 
> At 08:51 AM 2/16/00 -0800, you wrote:
> >Just wanted to pass along an invitation once again
> to
> >all who are in MD or close to us to drop in this
> >Saturday from 12 - 7 PM for our Anniversary sale &
> >Customer Appreciation Day.  If you want more
> >information check out
> >http://www.heesun.com/anniversary.htm
> >
> >Robert 
> >Hee Sun Stained Glass, LTD.
> >324 Main Street 
> >Reisterstown, MD 21136
> >410-833-3007
> >
> >__________________________________________________
> >Do You Yahoo!?
> >Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
> >http://im.yahoo.com
> >----
> >For subscription changes, please mail to:
> glass-request@bungi.com
> >To send to the list,      please mail to:
> glass@bungi.com
> >Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> >
> 
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com
----
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From owner-glass Wed Feb 16 13:13:28 2000
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Received: by daver.bungi.com
	via smail with stdio
	id <m12LBaC-0000hua@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Wed, 16 Feb 2000 13:02:00 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #97 built 2000-Feb-15)
X-Path: thebeach.mv.com!Nancy
From: "Nancy Mullins" <Nancy@thebeach.mv.com>
To: <bethanie.l.b.brown@us.arthurandersen.com>, <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Polystyrene Peanut Recycling
Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 14:56:31 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Most mailing centers will take your used peanuts!  Some
will even give store credit!
~ Nancy Mullins
~ Concord, NH
~ Homepage http://thebeach.ne.mediaone.net
~ ICQ # 2974287
~ Don't give someone a job to do and tell them how to do
it, give it to them and watch how they do it!
----- Original Message -----
From: <bethanie.l.b.brown@us.arthurandersen.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 16, 2000 12:40 PM
Subject: Polystyrene Peanut Recycling


>
>
> I just got this phone number in a package last
night --
>
> Call 1-800-828-2214 for the nearest Peanut Hotline
Collection Site. This number
> is valid for sites around the U.S.
>
> ....Bethanie....
>
>
>
> Boy, Shirley, wish you were closer!  I've several
trash bags full of them in
> my basement that I'd *love* to get rid of!  (I keep
meaning to search
> out a recycling place.....)
>
> Kaye
> ---------------------
> Does anyone know of a really inexpensive place to buy
packing
> peanuts?
> Thanks in advance.
> Shirley B
>
> *******************Internet Email Confidentiality
Footer*******************
>
>
> Privileged/Confidential Information may be contained
in this message.  If you
> are not the addressee indicated in this message (or
responsible for delivery of
> the message to such person), you may not copy or
deliver this message to anyone.
> In such case, you should destroy this message and
kindly notify the sender by
> reply email. Please advise immediately if you or your
employer do not consent to
> Internet email for messages of this kind.  Opinions,
conclusions and other
> information in this message that do not relate to the
official business of my
> firm shall be understood as neither given nor endorsed
by it.
>
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to:
glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to:
glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>

----
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To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Wed Feb 16 13:31:24 2000
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	for rglass-42; Wed, 16 Feb 2000 13:03:37 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #97 built 2000-Feb-15)
X-Path: thebeach.mv.com!Nancy
From: "Nancy Mullins" <Nancy@thebeach.mv.com>
To: <bethanie.l.b.brown@us.arthurandersen.com>, <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Polystyrene Peanut Recycling
Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 14:56:31 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Most mailing centers will take your used peanuts!  Some
will even give store credit!
~ Nancy Mullins
~ Concord, NH
~ Homepage http://thebeach.ne.mediaone.net
~ ICQ # 2974287
~ Don't give someone a job to do and tell them how to do
it, give it to them and watch how they do it!
----- Original Message -----
From: <bethanie.l.b.brown@us.arthurandersen.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 16, 2000 12:40 PM
Subject: Polystyrene Peanut Recycling


>
>
> I just got this phone number in a package last
night --
>
> Call 1-800-828-2214 for the nearest Peanut Hotline
Collection Site. This number
> is valid for sites around the U.S.
>
> ....Bethanie....
>
>
>
> Boy, Shirley, wish you were closer!  I've several
trash bags full of them in
> my basement that I'd *love* to get rid of!  (I keep
meaning to search
> out a recycling place.....)
>
> Kaye
> ---------------------
> Does anyone know of a really inexpensive place to buy
packing
> peanuts?
> Thanks in advance.
> Shirley B
>
> *******************Internet Email Confidentiality
Footer*******************
>
>
> Privileged/Confidential Information may be contained
in this message.  If you
> are not the addressee indicated in this message (or
responsible for delivery of
> the message to such person), you may not copy or
deliver this message to anyone.
> In such case, you should destroy this message and
kindly notify the sender by
> reply email. Please advise immediately if you or your
employer do not consent to
> Internet email for messages of this kind.  Opinions,
conclusions and other
> information in this message that do not relate to the
official business of my
> firm shall be understood as neither given nor endorsed
by it.
>
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to:
glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to:
glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>

----
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To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Wed Feb 16 14:48:07 2000
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Received: by daver.bungi.com
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	for rglass-42; Wed, 16 Feb 2000 14:32:59 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #97 built 2000-Feb-15)
X-Path: mtcon.net!shigbee
From: "Shari" <shigbee@mtcon.net>
To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Need a wagon wheel design
Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 15:34:22 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hi all! I've been asked to create a stained glass panel for a friend--he's
asked for a "double wagon wheel" design.

My immediately reaction is "Yeecchhh!" and "How nice--brown." That said,
does anyone have a pattern or any ideas for a pattern and how to make this a
tad nicer than just wagon wheels?

Shari


----
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Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

From owner-glass Wed Feb 16 15:19:04 2000
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Received: by daver.bungi.com
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	for rglass-42; Wed, 16 Feb 2000 15:00:04 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #97 built 2000-Feb-15)
X-Path: ix.netcom.com!gunnx4
From: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@ix.netcom.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Venezuela
Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 16:08:28 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Anyone on bungi in Venezuela?  If so, please email me off list. Or if
you know of a studio/retail suppliers there?

Thanks.

Suzanne
----
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From owner-glass Wed Feb 16 17:00:49 2000
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From: Pixie8613@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com (Bungi)
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: remove
Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 19:51:14 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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remove pixie8613@aol.com
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From owner-glass Wed Feb 16 18:30:44 2000
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	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #97 built 2000-Feb-15)
X-Path: aol.com!MATRONA
From: MATRONA@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com, gjr@bungi.com
Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="part1_84.190fac8.25dcb553_boundary"
Subject: Fwd: Stained Glass  Email Forum Inquiry 
Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 21:22:11 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk


--part1_84.190fac8.25dcb553_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

>I received this e-mail today,... wondered if anyone of you Northerners, 
could give her a tip as to where she could get some scrap.
Anne

  RE: where to find
>  Val McNab (c.mcnab@sk.sympatico.ca)
>  sent the following message to this forum...
>  
>  I would really like to do a stained glass mosaic project with my grade 9 
> Arts Ed students. Tight budgets make it impossible to buy large amounts of 
> stained glass. I would like to buy a bucket of mixed glass pieces for my 
> students to use in a project such as a garden stepping stone. Can you help 
me 
> make contact with someone who may help further my quest in this matter? I 
> live in Oxbow, SK, Canada, we are located 300 km southeast of Regina, SK 
and 
> 150 km north of Minot, North Dakota. Names, addresses (both post office and 
e-
> mail), phone numbers, costs, would be nice to receive. yours truely, Val 
> McNab
>  
>  --- END OF MESSAGE ----------------
>  
>  


--part1_84.190fac8.25dcb553_boundary
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To: Matrona@aol.com
From: c.mcnab@sk.sympatico.ca (Val McNab)
Reply-To: c.mcnab@sk.sympatico.ca (Val McNab)
Subject: Stained Glass  Email Forum Inquiry 

-------------------------------------------------------------- 
As a subscriber to the House of Glass Email Forum
you receive e-mail messages which are submitted to the 
Stained Glass  forum.
The following inquiry/message was made to the forum. 

If this message is of no interest to you, simply disregard it

--- START OF MESSAGE ----------------------- 

RE: where to find
Val McNab (c.mcnab@sk.sympatico.ca)
sent the following message to this forum...

I would really like to do a stained glass mosaic project with my grade 9 Arts Ed students. Tight budgets make it impossible to buy large amounts of stained glass. I would like to buy a bucket of mixed glass pieces for my students to use in a project such as a garden stepping stone. Can you help me make contact with someone who may help further my quest in this matter? I live in Oxbow, SK, Canada, we are located 300 km southeast of Regina, SK and 150 km north of Minot, North Dakota. Names, addresses (both post office and e-mail), phone numbers, costs, would be nice to receive. yours truely, Val McNab

--- END OF MESSAGE ----------------

-------------------------------------------------------------- 
If you have any questions regarding the 
the services provided by House of Glass, 
please feel free to contact:

Terry Millie (sales@glass.cooksmill.com),
Jamie Roszel (webmaster@cooksmill.com)

at our sales office.
Tel. 519-767-2913.

www.cooksmill.com/glass
-------------------------------------------------------------- 

--part1_84.190fac8.25dcb553_boundary--
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From owner-glass Wed Feb 16 21:29:23 2000
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	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #97 built 2000-Feb-15)
X-Path: bellsouth.net!hightec
From: "Tim Sengstock" <hightec@bellsouth.net>
To: <GLASS@BUNGI.COM>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Subject: Gatewayed mail message
Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 23:05:22
Message-ID: <m12LJ6y-0000WYC@daver.bungi.com>
Precedence: bulk

  There are so many different bulk 
email software packages to choose from.   So I know what 
you are probably thinking.  Which bulk email software is
the easiest to use?  Which bulk email software is the 
fastest and most affordable?  Which bulk email software 
will get the job done right?  How can I start bulk emailing 
right away for one simple, low price?  The answer is 
Desktop Server 2000!!
 
Why should you do business with us?   One reason is 
that we are one of the only bulk email software companies
that provides unlimited FREE technical support on any
software you purchase from us.  That means you can get
help by talking to a representative over the phone any
time during regular business hours.  Or if you would rather
get support by email, we provide email support as well.
But the truth is, most of our clients never need technical
support because our software is easy enough for kids to
use.

Recent surveys tell us that an amazing 93% of the beginner 
and professional bulk emailers around the world use Desktop 
Server 98 to do their bulk emailing.  And Desktop Server 2000
is easy enough for a 10 year old child to use.  I'm serious, 
try the free demo and you'll see just how simple Desktop 
Server 2000 really is.  Plus we can offer you the guaranteed 
lowest price on Desktop Server 98.  We will beat any price
you find on the net!!  Plus when you purchase Desktop 
server 98 you get Atomic Harvester 98 FREE!!

Also you will need some fresh email address lists right?  You  
should never purchase lists of email addresses that you see 
offered on the net.  These address lists are mostly 
undeliverable lists that are usually several years old.  And 
you simply can't trust the people who sell these massive
lists.  They will always tell you their list is extremely fresh
and just a few days or weeks old.  That's almost never true.
So we strongly urge you to collect your own fresh email 
lists.  The way you do that is with a program called Atomic
Harvester 98.  This way you will know you are mailing to 
targeted fresh email lists.  And when you purchase Desktop 
Server 2000 you get Atomic Harvester 98 FREE!!  Atomic 
Harvester 98 is powerful software that will go out on the net 
and collect thousands of email addresses for you everyday 
at the touch of a button!!  Try the FREE demo.  It's simple!!

Our bulk email programs are not just software, they are a 
whole business!!  People will pay you incredible money to do 
bulk emailing for them.  I see people everyday that charge 
$850.00 a day to do bulk emailing as a service for other 
businesses.  And that's just an extra side income for them.   
Plus ask us how you can become a distributor/reseller for 
Desktop Server 2000 and make even more money.  Selling bulk 
email software is just about as great as using it.  We will 
pay you $$$$$$ cash for every copy of Desktop Server 2000 
you sell.  It's fun, fast and easy!  We will be accepting new 
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Post news 2000 will allow you to post your sales letters or 
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Imagine how much new business you'll have with your sales 
letter being read in 30,000 news groups

For more information or to place an order for Desktop
Server 2000, call our office today at:   850-476-4811
We accept VISA,  MASTERCARD & American Express.  
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Sincerely,

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TLP-Enterprises.com
http://www.tlp-enterprises.com

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From owner-glass Thu Feb 17 08:59:33 2000
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	for rglass-42; Thu, 17 Feb 2000 08:56:08 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #97 built 2000-Feb-15)
X-Path: earthlink.net!crystalangl
From: "Carol DeLong" <crystalangl@earthlink.net>
To: <MATRONA@aol.com>, <glass@bungi.com>, <gjr@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Stained Glass  Email Forum Inquiry 
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 07:02:13 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

I am inthe South, however, there are a lot of "larger" studios where church
windows are made, and they are happy to offer free scrap glass for schools,
etc.  Might check the yellow pages.
Hope this helps!
Carol D
----- Original Message -----
From: <MATRONA@aol.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>; <gjr@bungi.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 16, 2000 9:22 PM
Subject: Fwd: Stained Glass Email Forum Inquiry


> >I received this e-mail today,... wondered if anyone of you Northerners,
> could give her a tip as to where she could get some scrap.
> Anne
>
>   RE: where to find
> >  Val McNab (c.mcnab@sk.sympatico.ca)
> >  sent the following message to this forum...
> >
> >  I would really like to do a stained glass mosaic project with my grade
9
> > Arts Ed students. Tight budgets make it impossible to buy large amounts
of
> > stained glass. I would like to buy a bucket of mixed glass pieces for my
> > students to use in a project such as a garden stepping stone. Can you
help
> me
> > make contact with someone who may help further my quest in this matter?
I
> > live in Oxbow, SK, Canada, we are located 300 km southeast of Regina, SK
> and
> > 150 km north of Minot, North Dakota. Names, addresses (both post office
and
> e-
> > mail), phone numbers, costs, would be nice to receive. yours truely, Val
> > McNab
> >
> >  --- END OF MESSAGE ----------------
> >
> >
>
>

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From owner-glass Thu Feb 17 11:25:47 2000
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	for rglass-42; Thu, 17 Feb 2000 11:00:22 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #97 built 2000-Feb-15)
X-Path: appleonline.net!anne-walker
From: anne walker <anne-walker@appleonline.net>
To: "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Subject: to all uk users from stained glass news
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 19:00:19 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

I received this warning from stained glass news uk

If you receive an e-mail headed "HOW TO GIVE A CAT A COLONIC", DO NOT
open
it, as it contains a Virus for which there is no cure. WOBBLER is on the
loose.
It will arrive on e-mail titled "HOW TO GIVE A CAT A COLONIC".

IBM and AOL have announced that it is very powerful, more so than
Melissa. There is no remedy. It will eat all the
information on your hard drive and also destroys Netscape Navigator and
Microsoft Internet Explorer. Do not open anything
with this title and please pass this message on to all your contacts and
anyone who uses your e-mail facility. Please practice
cautionary measures and forward this to all your online friends.

We have received this virus warning from what we believe is an
impeccable source, so please take it seriously.


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From owner-glass Thu Feb 17 13:31:48 2000
Return-Path: <owner-glass>
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	id <m12LYOt-0000afa@daver.bungi.com>
	for rglass-42; Thu, 17 Feb 2000 13:23:51 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #97 built 2000-Feb-15)
X-Path: ix.netcom.com!mbwalker
From: "Brad Walker" <mbwalker@ix.netcom.com>
To: "anne walker" <anne-walker@appleonline.net>, <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: ANOTHER HOAX (was:to all uk users from stained glass news)
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 15:06:57 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

This is a hoax.  PLEASE CHECK THIS KIND OF THING OUT BEFORE YOU SEND IT ON.
Not only is it wasteful and disrepectful, you're giving us Walkers a bad
name.

Url with info about hoax is at:
http://www.symantec.com/avcenter/venc/data/give.a.cat.a.colonic.hoax.html

Thank you.

Brad Walker


----- Original Message -----
From: anne walker <anne-walker@appleonline.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2000 2:00 PM
Subject: to all uk users from stained glass news


> I received this warning from stained glass news uk
>
> If you receive an e-mail headed "HOW TO GIVE A CAT A COLONIC", DO NOT
> open
> it, as it contains a Virus for which there is no cure. WOBBLER is on the
> loose.
> It will arrive on e-mail titled "HOW TO GIVE A CAT A COLONIC".
>
> IBM and AOL have announced that it is very powerful, more so than
> Melissa. There is no remedy. It will eat all the
> information on your hard drive and also destroys Netscape Navigator and
> Microsoft Internet Explorer. Do not open anything
> with this title and please pass this message on to all your contacts and
> anyone who uses your e-mail facility. Please practice
> cautionary measures and forward this to all your online friends.
>
> We have received this virus warning from what we believe is an
> impeccable source, so please take it seriously.
>
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>

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From owner-glass Thu Feb 17 13:31:50 2000
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	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #97 built 2000-Feb-15)
X-Path: hotmail.com!wankerxpi
From: "john smith" <wankerxpi@hotmail.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
Subject: a word of caution....
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 14:21:53 MST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

    Some of you may have noticed the ad in the Stained Glass Journal of 
America which is as follows:
ARIA STAINED GLASS, based in Galway, Ireland, requires experienced stained 
glass workers.
This is an opportunity to create new works as well as restore some of 
Ireland's most prestigious
windows.
    I would like to offer a word of caution to anyone thinking of taking up 
this position, privately of
the list.
by the way, what are the worst studios a few of you out in bungi land have 
worked in?
I bet this on can compete....
______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

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From owner-glass Thu Feb 17 13:33:26 2000
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	for rglass-42; Thu, 17 Feb 2000 13:30:38 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #97 built 2000-Feb-15)
X-Path: juno.com!mschatee
From: mschatee@juno.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Unsubscribe till after vacation
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 16:00:49 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Please take me off the list until I come home,  I don't want to open a
brimming mailbox.  Thanks alot!

To all of you who gave me traveling advice I wrapped my piece in 9 feet
of bubble wrap,  placed 2 pieces of moulding on both sides in opposite
directions so it can't bend, then 9 more feet of bubble wrap.  A half a
roll of packing tape, cardboard, rope and I am all set!  I don't think I
could break it if I tried.  Now to befriend the flight attendents to tuck
it away safely.

I'll see you all when I get back and I'll tell you my grandmothers
reaction!

Caren

________________________________________________________________
YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET!
Juno now offers FREE Internet Access!
Try it today - there's no risk!  For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
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From owner-glass Thu Feb 17 13:52:18 2000
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	for rglass-42; Thu, 17 Feb 2000 13:31:40 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #97 built 2000-Feb-15)
X-Path: fn3.freenet.tlh.fl.us!gonzalj
From: Jim Gonzalez <gonzalj@freenet.tlh.fl.us>
To: anne walker <anne-walker@appleonline.net>
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: NG: Cat Colonic Virus Hoax
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 16:50:58 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

On Thu, 17 Feb 2000, anne walker wrote:
> I received this warning from stained glass news uk
> If you receive an e-mail headed "HOW TO GIVE A CAT A COLONIC", DO NOT
>MAJOR SNIP< 
> We have received this virus warning from what we believe is an
> impeccable source, so please take it seriously.

This is just another hoax.  It is best to investigate all virus warnings
you receive prior to posting them to a mailing list (for that matter
before passing them along to anyone).  Check out:

http://www.F-Secure.com/hoaxes/catcolon.htm

Save that link and use it to check future virus warnings.

Jim

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From owner-glass Thu Feb 17 14:03:05 2000
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	for rglass-42; Thu, 17 Feb 2000 13:54:35 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #97 built 2000-Feb-15)
X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Need a wagon wheel design
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 16:52:36 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Message text written by "Shari"
>My immediately reaction is "Yeecchhh!" and "How nice--brown." That said,=

does anyone have a pattern or any ideas for a pattern and how to make thi=
s
a
tad nicer than just wagon wheels?<

Put something interesting in the background which you can see through the=

wagon wheels.

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
North Wales, PA USA
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From owner-glass Thu Feb 17 18:10:16 2000
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	for rglass-42; Thu, 17 Feb 2000 18:06:55 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #97 built 2000-Feb-15)
X-Path: milu.ipn.pt!abillings
From: milu.ipn.pt!abillings
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Gatewayed mail message
Date: Thu Feb 17 18:05:28 2000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Oprah, Nightline, Maria Shriver, 48 Hours, 20/20, Playboy, Kiplingers and more have all interviewed this famous Private Investigator. Now, you too can make substantial income using his highly sought- after SECRETS.

Thank you for your interest in our training Course! We offer the most extensive training course in "How to Collect Judicial Judgments" available!!! In fact, we created this industry.

If you are like many people, you are not even sure what a Judicial Judgment is and why processing Judicial Judgments can earn you very substantial income.
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Very few people know how to find these assets or what to do when they are found. The result is that millions of Judgments are just sitting in files and being forgotten. This is entirely non-confrontational and requires no special licensing.

Right now in the United States there is between 200 and 300 billion dollars of uncollected Judicial Judgments. For every Judgment that is paid, 5 or more Judgments take its place.

The income potential is substantial in this profession. Using the techniques taught in this course, people are now working full-time making $96,000.00 to over $200,000.00 per year, Part-time associates are earning between $24,000.00 and $100,000.00 per year. Most choose to work out of their homes, other build sizable organizations.

Today, people trained in this business opportunity are processing over 500 million dollars in Judicial Judgments. 

So, if you've ever dreamed of the financial freedom that owning your own business can provide. Dreamed of an early retirement, this may be the opportunity for you. None of your days will be dull. You will be mentally challenged. This business protects you from corporate downsizing. This business is your ticket to freedom from others telling you what to do. This business lets you control your destiny! Our training has made this happen for many others already, Make it happen for you!

If the above sounds interesting to you then its time for you to talk to a real live human being, no cost or obligation on your part.

Please call us at 1-303-423-9190, between the hours of 1:00pm - 6:00pm Mountain Time (our mornings are reserved for support of our associates), Monday -friday.
Thank you for your time and interest.

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From owner-glass Thu Feb 17 19:12:41 2000
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	for rglass-42; Thu, 17 Feb 2000 19:01:54 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #97 built 2000-Feb-15)
X-Path: ghostman.com!candy
From: "Candy" <candy@ghostman.com>
To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>, "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: membership
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 00 19:38:36 
Message-ID: <200002180238.TAA23886@mantis.privatei.com>
Precedence: bulk

Christie,

did you find my membership information yet? I'm still waiting for my packet and it's 
been about 6 wks.

Candy


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From owner-glass Thu Feb 17 21:46:13 2000
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	for rglass-42; Thu, 17 Feb 2000 21:32:53 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #97 built 2000-Feb-15)
X-Path: home.com!cecnralph
From: Cecily and Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Subject: [ng] Spam
Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2000 00:27:37 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Organization: Grendel Studios
Precedence: bulk

Would someone care to enlighten me about the "gatewayed mail messages"?
Sometimes they seem legitimate postings, and others like the latest are
pure spam.  Is it a conscious act (on the part of a Bungi member) to
gateway a message?  Since most email underpinnings take place fairly
transparently, so the users don't see it, why would something alter the
original subject, other than to use RE for reply, or FWD for forward?  I
never see this gatewayed stuff on any of the dozen or so lists I use at
home or work.  (Never see as much spam either, for that matter.) - Cec
whose current goal in life is to become the first female curmudgeon!

--
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************


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From owner-glass Fri Feb 18 01:20:53 2000
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	for rglass-42; Fri, 18 Feb 2000 01:08:52 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #97 built 2000-Feb-15)
X-Path: eurovarit.inet.fi!taava.saarelainen
From: "Taava Saarelainen" <taava.saarelainen@eurovarit.inet.fi>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Gatewayed mail message
Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2000 11:04:34 +0200
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

hi !


 I don=B4t want to have any e-mails from this link anymore !!!

Can you delete my e-mail address from your list, please ???

Pls confirm=20

Taava Saarelainen

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From owner-glass Fri Feb 18 04:55:38 2000
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X-Path: gdi.net!shodge
From: Skip Hodge <shodge@gdi.net>
To: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Need a wagon wheel design
Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2000 07:44:45 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

CKE puts out a pretty good Wagon Wheel Pattern
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From owner-glass Fri Feb 18 05:02:47 2000
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	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #97 built 2000-Feb-15)
X-Path: mindspring.com!rcollins1
From: Robert Collins <rcollins1@mindspring.com>
To: Candy <candy@ghostman.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: membership
Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2000 07:42:00 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<200002180238.TAA23886@mantis.privatei.com>>
Organization: CSC, Inc.
Precedence: bulk

Me too! What Package? I sure hope there are chocolates in it. I need a
pick me up.

    Bob

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From owner-glass Fri Feb 18 12:24:10 2000
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	for rglass-42; Fri, 18 Feb 2000 12:11:36 -0800 (PST)
	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #97 built 2000-Feb-15)
X-Path: aol.com!Carlross
From: Carlross@aol.com
To: Glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: unsubscribe
Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2000 15:09:04 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

please remove me from your mailing list, I go to school now and can't keep up 
with all the mail

Carl Ross
Carlross@aol.com
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From owner-glass Fri Feb 18 13:38:36 2000
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X-Path: aisl.bc.ca!atwoods
From: "Tim & Adriana Atwood" <atwoods@aisl.bc.ca>
To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: side light
Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2000 13:25:11 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<20000216150338.VOFO3015.mail.rdc1.az.home.com@cx795941-a>>
Precedence: bulk

No, at only six inches wide you should not need to reinforce it.

More important will be the glazing / mounting techniques.  Remember, almost
all houses shift and settle over time and change with the seasons.  It would
take only a very small change in the square-ness of the side light frame to
create significant stress through the six foot length of the panel.  The
panel should be mounted such that it is held firmly yet can still shift.

The panel should NOT be tight against the inside of the frame.  Instead
there should be some gap around the panel then something to hold it in
position that is still flexible enough to "give" before the glass cracks.
Caulking cord, glaziers tape, many forms of caulk or putty, the outside
channel of an "H" came, properly mounted glaziers points, and many other
techniques can fit this requirement.

----- Original Message -----
From: Lorley Oneyear <lorley@home.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 16, 2000 6:59 AM
Subject: side light


> Hello Bungi group,  Thinking of doing my front door's side light. It is 6
> inches across and almost 6 feet high. I will probably do it in foil. Will
I
> need to reinforce this side light?
>
> ----
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From owner-glass Fri Feb 18 15:00:44 2000
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Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2000 17:42:21 EST
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please take me off of the mailing list.  thanks.
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From owner-glass Sat Feb 19 06:31:22 2000
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Date: Sat, 19 Feb 2000 09:18:13 -0500
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0013_01BF7ABA.3F51E2A0
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
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Can anyone point me in the right direction? I'm looking for glass =
etching information.  I need tools, patterns, catalogs, etc. =20

I realize this may not be your specialty craft.  But I'm having a very =
difficult finding what I need.  I'm hoping someone has some ideas for =
me.

I can be reached at jenkst@msn.com
THANKS!
Terri=20

------=_NextPart_000_0013_01BF7ABA.3F51E2A0
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Can anyone point me in the right =
direction? I'm=20
looking for glass etching information.&nbsp; I need tools, patterns, =
catalogs,=20
etc.&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I realize this may not be your =
specialty=20
craft.&nbsp; But I'm having a very difficult finding what I need.&nbsp; =
I'm=20
hoping someone has some ideas for me.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I can be reached at <A=20
href=3D"mailto:jenkst@msn.com">jenkst@msn.com</A></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>THANKS!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Terri </FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-glass Sat Feb 19 13:35:53 2000
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X-Path: ix.netcom.com!gunnx4
From: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@ix.netcom.com>
To: Witchdoc3@aol.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: lead and pregnancy PS
Date: Sat, 19 Feb 2000 15:07:58 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Thanks Sparks.  Thing is, I cant take all the credit.  Smart
pediatrician too.  I keep an eye on my lead level, better watch the kids
too.  They hang out with me a lot.  I feel like a walking contaminant
somedays! ;o)

Witchdoc3@aol.com wrote:
> 
> In a message dated 2/8/00 7:59:00 PM, gunnx4@ix.netcom.com writes:
> 
> >We owned a home that was built in 1924.  There was a spot I found that
> >he liked to put his mouth.  I assume it felt good on his gums.  I
> >wrapped it with cloth and tied it up with string.  His lead levels
> >immediately started dropping.
> 
> Lucky young man to have such a smart mom! Friends of one of my brothers back
> in the 70s didn't catch on as quickly, and their baby daughter ended up with
> facial deformities in addition to brain damage.
> 
> Sparks
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From owner-glass Sat Feb 19 14:06:14 2000
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Date: Sat, 19 Feb 2000 16:31:21 EST
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remove Jessem@aol.com
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From owner-glass Sat Feb 19 15:07:58 2000
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X-Path: foxinternet.net!lin
From: "lin" <lin@foxinternet.net>
To: "Bungi" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: help! Please!
Date: Sat, 19 Feb 2000 14:51:13 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

I know what I did was REALLY stupid and a basic no-no so please be kind in
your responses getting me out of my fix............
I built a leaded window (about 2'X3' oval) and soldered one side..... I
stopped for lunch after I gave the thing a quick clean with simple green....
Well, life fell completely apart and I never got back to the window until
now, it is weeks later......... needless to say, a "quick clean" does not
remove everything and the lead now has black (not the good kind) everywhere.
It looks like I can remove it with steel wool but I don't know what all this
is going  to do to the final finish and, I have no idea what the other side
looks like.... I am not a neat fluxer - I expect there were probably
puddles.  Before I go forward (to finish soldering this side and flip to the
next), I wanted some of your words of wisdom.  I am so afraid that  you are
going to tell me to tear it apart and start over again - which I will do if
I need to.............
Help Please!
TIA
layla


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From owner-glass Sat Feb 19 20:34:14 2000
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From: Bobfuses@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: help! Please!
Date: Sat, 19 Feb 2000 23:07:02 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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In a message dated 2/19/00 3:08:27 PM Pacific Standard Time, 
lin@foxinternet.net writes:

> I built a leaded window (about 2'X3' oval) and soldered one side..... I
> stopped for lunch after I gave the thing a quick clean with simple green...
> Well, life fell completely apart and I never got back to the window until
> now, it is weeks later......... needless to say, a "quick clean" does not
>  remove everything and the lead now has black

Not a big problem but you will need a steel brush made for lead clean up. 
Most any stained glass outlet sells these brushes for about US$1.00. Just 
scrub each lead joint for a few seconds, flux and solder. 

The second side likely has black corrosion at many of the joints. Also scrub 
them with the steel brush. Any lead that is not bright and shinny needs to be 
steel brush scrubbed before soldering.

Steel wool does not seem to do the job, brass brushes and steel brushes made 
for weld clean up are to stiff. You might find the correct brush at an 
ordinary hardware store also.

Bob in 9 2 0 2 6
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From owner-glass Sun Feb 20 07:06:15 2000
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X-Path: yahoo.com!agacic
From: Alex Gacic <agacic@yahoo.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Border for round panel
Date: Sun, 20 Feb 2000 06:50:08 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hi everyone

I am going to be building two 22" round panels.  I
want the lines to be fine so I'll be doing it with
copper foil.  The panels will be set into existing
round windows and held in place with several stops.

I would like some ideas on the type of border to use. 
Would a 1/4 zinc channel be adequate?  If I go with
something larger would the radius be difficult to bend
and conform to the panel.
__________________________________________________
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From owner-glass Sun Feb 20 08:49:56 2000
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X-Path: gjr
From: gjr@bungi.com (Glenna Rand)
To: Alex Gacic <agacic@yahoo.com>, glass
Subject: Re: Border for round panel
Date: Sun, 20 Feb 2000 08:33:01 PST
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[In the message entitled "Border for round panel" on Feb 20,  6:50, Alex Gacic writes:]

> I am going to be building two 22" round panels.  I
> want the lines to be fine so I'll be doing it with
> copper foil.  The panels will be set into existing
> round windows and held in place with several stops.
> 
> I would like some ideas on the type of border to use. 
> Would a 1/4 zinc channel be adequate?  If I go with
> something larger would the radius be difficult to bend
> and conform to the panel.

I've done several round panels and like to frame them with zinc came.
I think a person could obtain a more finished look if they then
frame (after the zinc) into an oak frame.


-- 
Glenna Rand
gjr@bungi.com
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From owner-glass Sun Feb 20 09:05:53 2000
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X-Path: home.com!cecnralph
From: Cecily and Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Subject: Re: help! Please!
Date: Sun, 20 Feb 2000 11:35:59 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Organization: Grendel Studios
Precedence: bulk

And if you haven't used those brushes, you are going to look at them and think

"Holy Moley!  You CAN'T use those on glass!  Or lead that is so soft you only
have to look at it cross eyed to have a mark on it!"

But really you can.  It doesn't seem to scratch the glass or the lead.
Amazing.  And don't be gingerly about really scrubbing, althought as Bob says,
it only takes a few seconds.

And don't beat yourself up over leaving the project half done, unwashed, etc.
Probably everyone has had that happen, sooner or later. - Cec

Bobfuses@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 2/19/00 3:08:27 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> lin@foxinternet.net writes:
>
> > I built a leaded window (about 2'X3' oval) and soldered one side..... I
> > stopped for lunch after I gave the thing a quick clean with simple green...
> > Well, life fell completely apart and I never got back to the window until
> > now, it is weeks later......... needless to say, a "quick clean" does not
> >  remove everything and the lead now has black
>
> Not a big problem but you will need a steel brush made for lead clean up.
> Most any stained glass outlet sells these brushes for about US$1.00. Just
> scrub each lead joint for a few seconds, flux and solder.
>
> The second side likely has black corrosion at many of the joints. Also scrub
> them with the steel brush. Any lead that is not bright and shinny needs to be
> steel brush scrubbed before soldering.
>
> Steel wool does not seem to do the job, brass brushes and steel brushes made
> for weld clean up are to stiff. You might find the correct brush at an
> ordinary hardware store also.
>
> Bob in 9 2 0 2 6
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

--
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************


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From owner-glass Sun Feb 20 09:23:21 2000
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X-Path: home.com!lorley
From: Lorley Oneyear <lorley@home.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: glue chip
Date: Sun, 20 Feb 2000 09:57:52 -0700
Message-ID: <20000220170226.PELH3015.mail.rdc1.az.home.com@cx795941-a>
Precedence: bulk

Using double glue chip for a background on a panel. Is there a "grain" to
glue chip?  Can I turn the glue chip any direction to fit??  Also, is there
any preference to which side is on top, smooth or chipped ?? This
particular panel will be hung on a wall framed in barn board.

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From owner-glass Sun Feb 20 10:05:53 2000
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X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Border for round panel
Date: Sun, 20 Feb 2000 12:12:32 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Message text written by Alex Gacic
>I would like some ideas on the type of border to use. =

Would a 1/4 zinc channel be adequate?  If I go with
something larger would the radius be difficult to bend
and conform to the panel.<

I would use a nice 1/4" lead channel for the border.
It will easily conform to your radius, and can be trimmed
if the window is not perfectly round.

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
North Wales, PA USA
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From owner-glass Sun Feb 20 11:53:09 2000
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X-Path: home.net!esavad
From: "Mike Savad" <esavad@home.net>
To: "Lorley Oneyear" <lorley@home.com>,
Subject: RE: glue chip
Date: Sun, 20 Feb 2000 14:41:24 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<20000220170226.PELH3015.mail.rdc1.az.home.com@cx795941-a>>
Precedence: bulk

most gluechip doesn't have a grain. in some cases it has a grain. i usually
splash it where ever it fits.


---Mike Savad


Mike's Stained Glass - Tips Tricks Photos
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
9-12-99 - New Pages Added: 3 new Tips sections - Reader's Tips, Making your
own Glass Filigree, and Cutting Different types of glass. There are also a
lot of new Sky City pictures.


> -----Original Message-----
> From: Lorley Oneyear [mailto:lorley@home.com]
> Sent: Sunday, February 20, 2000 11:58 AM
> To: glass@bungi.com
> Subject: glue chip
>
>
> Using double glue chip for a background on a panel. Is there a "grain" to
> glue chip?  Can I turn the glue chip any direction to fit??
> Also, is there
> any preference to which side is on top, smooth or chipped ?? This
> particular panel will be hung on a wall framed in barn board.
>
> ----
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> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


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From owner-glass Sun Feb 20 14:57:28 2000
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Alex Gacic <agacic@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Border for round panel
Date: Sun, 20 Feb 2000 22:32:22 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk

Alex
        Although Christe has suggested 1/4 inch round came would help in
fitting the panel into the round opening, I would suggest something much
more meaty.  In fact, 1/2 inch lead came for the border would be best.
        It would be best, because the "round" opening will not be a
perfect circle, like your panel will be. You need to be able to trim
considerable amounts to make it fit well.  The 1/2 came will be covered
by the beading or putty filet anyway.
        It needs to be lead rather than zinc.  Lead bends round the
curve much more easily, and is easily soldered to the main panel.

In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, Alex Gacic <agacic@yahoo.com> writes
>Hi everyone
>
>I am going to be building two 22" round panels.  I
>want the lines to be fine so I'll be doing it with
>copper foil.  The panels will be set into existing
>round windows and held in place with several stops.
>
>I would like some ideas on the type of border to use. 
>Would a 1/4 zinc channel be adequate?  If I go with
>something larger would the radius be difficult to bend
>and conform to the panel.
>__________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
>Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
>http://im.yahoo.com
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Sun Feb 20 15:27:16 2000
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X-Path: foxinternet.net!lin
From: "lin" <lin@foxinternet.net>
To: "Cecily and Ralph Wood" <cecnralph@home.com>,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: help! Please!
Date: Sun, 20 Feb 2000 15:07:34 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Thanks ALL for your suggestions.  Almost unanimous that, 1. I'm not the
first, and 2. it can be repaired (only one person said to tear it apart and
redo).  I did take steel wool to the front side and the black vanished
quickly.  I had forgotten that I even have one of those wire brushes - my
first instructor insisted on using it before every solder and my last
instructor didn't like them at all (she didn't like steel wool even more
because of the "flakes that rust").  she insisted on storing your lead
appropriately, and proceeding with your work in the correct way so that
oxidation(?!) was never a problem ..........
I am going to go back to this as my only "to do" tomorrow so that I can
insure getting the entire thing done.
thanks again for all your kindness and good suggestions!
layla

----- Original Message -----
Cecily and Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>wrote:
> And if you haven't used those brushes, you are going to look at them and
think
>
> "Holy Moley!
> And don't beat yourself up over leaving the project half done, unwashed,
etc.
> Probably everyone has had that happen, sooner or later. - Cec
>
> Bobfuses@aol.com wrote:

> > Not a big problem but you will need a steel brush made for lead clean
up.
> > Bob in 9 2 0 2 6


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From owner-glass Sun Feb 20 15:33:27 2000
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From: rrk <ezbongo2@pacbell.net>
To: Lorley Oneyear <lorley@home.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: glue chip
Date: Sun, 20 Feb 2000 15:05:02 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Precedence: bulk



Lorley Oneyear wrote:

> Using double glue chip for a background on a panel. Is there a "grain" to
> glue chip?  Can I turn the glue chip any direction to fit??  Also, is there
> any preference to which side is on top, smooth or chipped ?? This
> particular panel will be hung on a wall framed in barn board.

Hi Loreley,

Glue chip glass is a general term.  It is simply glass (clear or colored,
tempered or antique or rolled, whatever ...) to which a specific surface
treatment has been applied.  Any glass of any type can be used to make glue
chip glass.  A mixture of chemicals called animal hide glue has been applied to
the the surface of the glass (generally one side) and allowed to "dry".  During
the drying process (actually polymerization) the glue bonds quite strongly by
hydrogen bonds first to the surface of the glass and at the same time forms
internal fibers by internal crosslinking which contract as the fibers dehydrate
[as the solvent (water) evaporates]. The fibers pull out wide but not deep
chunks of the surface of the glass forming the pattern we're all so fond of.
The variables are the species of animal from which the glue was made, the glass
itself, the concentration of the glue when applied to the glass, the
temperature (drying speed) ... and so on.

The cutting characteristics of the glue chip glass will simply be the cutting
characteristics of the starting glass, whatever kind of glass that was.  As I
understand it, clear tempered glass of modern composition which has no 'grain'
is usually (but not always) the starting material.

You're probably using glue chip glass made from tempered glass (no "grain") but
its not a given.

HTH ...... Bob in 95014




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From owner-glass Mon Feb 21 07:02:57 2000
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X-Path: alpha.nad.adelphia.net!alewis
From: "Albert Lewis" <alewis@alpha.nad.adelphia.net>
To: "(IGGA members/suppliers)" < (info@aiap.com)>
Subject: The Art of Painting on Glass [adv]
Summary: Authenticated sender is <alewis@POP>
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 05:50:50 +0000
Message-ID: <200002211432.JAA19037@alpha.nad.adelphia.net>
Precedence: bulk

Exciting news: Albinus Elskus' "The Art of Painting on Glass," which
has long been recognized as the best book on glass painting ever
published, is being reprinted! It'll be available in mid-March.

I can't tell you how many times over the past few years I've 
recommended this book, only to have to say, "Unfortunately, it's very
difficult to find, since it's been out of print for years." What a
relief to be able to simply recommend it and say, "Get it!" <grin>

Take a look at http://www.aiap.com/elskus.htm
for more information about the book. And don't forget that IGGA 
members get a 10% discount, so be sure to check that box if you are a
member of IGGA and want to reserve a copy of "The Art of Painting on
Glass" for yourself.

Albert

Albert Lewis
Art in Architecture Press
54 Cherry Street, North Adams MA 01247
(413) 663-7946     Fax: (413) 663-7167
Home page:         http://www.aiap.com
--------------------------------------
Search easily among 2,300+ glass books
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From owner-glass Mon Feb 21 08:36:52 2000
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From: Lorley Oneyear <lorley@home.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: came
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 09:14:15 -0700
Message-ID: <20000221161848.YKYQ3015.mail.rdc1.az.home.com@cx795941-a>
Precedence: bulk

Does came go bad??  I have a lot of (un stretched) came stored flat in PVC
pipes. Each size marked and stored separately. I started out using came and
gradually shifted over to foil. Now I'm thinking of doing a lead project
again. Is there any reason this old came can't be used ?? It looks OK.  

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From owner-glass Mon Feb 21 12:13:10 2000
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Lorley Oneyear <lorley@home.com>
Subject: Re: came
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 18:50:58 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<20000221161848.YKYQ3015.mail.rdc1.az.home.com@cx795941-a>>
Precedence: bulk

Yes it can be used.  After some years it has an oxidisation layer
(corrosion), but this can be scraped off at the joints for fluxing and
soldering.  It is just dirtier.
Steve
In message <20000221161848.YKYQ3015.mail.rdc1.az.home.com@cx795941-a>,
Lorley Oneyear <lorley@home.com> writes
>Does came go bad??  I have a lot of (un stretched) came stored flat in PVC
>pipes. Each size marked and stored separately. I started out using came and
>gradually shifted over to foil. Now I'm thinking of doing a lead project
>again. Is there any reason this old came can't be used ?? It looks OK.  
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Mon Feb 21 14:32:08 2000
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From: Witchdoc3@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: glue chip
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 17:16:41 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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In a message dated 2/20/00 12:23:49 PM, lorley@home.com writes:

> Is there a "grain" to glue chip?

Depends on which way you look at it. Technically no, especially if you're 
dealing with "double" glue chip (which is literally chipped twice, it has two 
coats of animal-hide glue applied and removed), but if you look closely 
(particularly in single glue chip) you may see that the "vanes" of the 
"feathers" of it *tend* to go in one direction in specific areas, but 
generally not overwhelmingly so.

In double glue chip the "direction" is generally pretty random.......... I've 
seen the "prevailing direction" of "single" glue chip used effectively 
though, in a case where the artist used not-so-big pieces to build a set of 
leaded windows. (If the guy ever sells his house, I want it! Never mind that 
(1) I couldn't afford it and (2) it would be a 2-hour commute to amost every 
place I need to go............... the windows alone are worth it.........)

>Can I turn the glue chip any direction to fit??

It all depends on your preference. If you're a real stickler and you have a 
full sheet at your disposal, you can lay out and cut your pieces so they 
"tend" in a particular direction for effect.

>Also, is there
>any preference to which side is on top, smooth or chipped ??

Most people use the "smooth side up." But depending on the specific piece 
you're making, you might want to use the "chipped side up" (if you're 
combining it with glue chip bevels, which have the chipping on top," 
f'rinstance). But as they say, chacon a son gout.


Sparks

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From owner-glass Mon Feb 21 15:31:56 2000
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From: Witchdoc3@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: tempered glass, was Re: glue chip
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 17:16:56 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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In a message dated 2/20/00 6:34:03 PM, ezbongo2@pacbell.net writes:

>As I
>understand it, clear tempered glass of modern composition which has no
>'grain' is usually (but not always) the starting material.

I doubt that it's tempered glass, which is specially hardened, generally by 
quick cooling (also known as "quenching"), which "freezes" (and thus 
compresses) its surface structure and thereby creates internal stresses that 
add to its hardness but unfortunately make it paticularly susceptible to 
certain specific external stresses. It's glass under pressure - the quick 
cooling and resultant shrinking of the surface compresses the interior and 
makes it denser and thus harder and more impact-resistant. But if you score 
and try to break it, it'll either not break at all or explode into a 
gazillion pieces (sometimes just scoring it will do that, without benefit of 
running pliers............... you think a sheet of badly annealed Yough 
blowing up is spectacular??????).

I can't remember who the guy was (in Germany, I think) who created "drops" of 
tempered glass that look like polliwogs/tadpoles (OK, sperm, but I didn't say 
that!!!!!!!!!!!) by dropping them in a bucket of water while they were still 
glowing red hot - you can take a sledge hammer to the "bodies" of the things 
and they'll remain intact, but if you mess with the "tails" at all (even a 
scratch), the whole "drop" will explode into powder. (My other half, looking 
over my shoulder, says, "those sound like micro-Chihulys." OK, so he's been 
hanging out with me too long..............)

I ain't goin' there - if ever I need tempered glass in a certain size/shape, 
I'll go to the commercial glazier around the corner.


Sparks
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From owner-glass Tue Feb 22 10:46:24 2000
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X-Path: stratus.com!Charlie_Spitzer
From: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie_Spitzer@stratus.com>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Prince Rupert's Tears
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 10:56:03 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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here's a definition i found on the web:

(Prince Rupert's Tears) Chemically tempered glass.  You immerse the object
in a molten salt bath containing large monovalent cations and ion exchange
the
 glass surface, creating immense compressive forces. Prince Rupert's Tears
are created by dripping molten soda lime glass into ice water.  The surface
 solidifies, the interior cools and
 contracts.  You can wang on them with a sledge hammer to no effect, but if
you crack the thin tail or scratch the surface the drop
 explodes into dust.
  

-----Original Message-----
From: Witchdoc3@aol.com [mailto:Witchdoc3@aol.com] 
Sent: Monday, February 21, 2000 3:17 PM
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: tempered glass, was Re: glue chip



In a message dated 2/20/00 6:34:03 PM, ezbongo2@pacbell.net writes:

>As I
>understand it, clear tempered glass of modern composition which has no
>'grain' is usually (but not always) the starting material.

I doubt that it's tempered glass, which is specially hardened, generally by 
quick cooling (also known as "quenching"), which "freezes" (and thus 
compresses) its surface structure and thereby creates internal stresses that

add to its hardness but unfortunately make it paticularly susceptible to 
certain specific external stresses. It's glass under pressure - the quick 
cooling and resultant shrinking of the surface compresses the interior and 
makes it denser and thus harder and more impact-resistant. But if you score 
and try to break it, it'll either not break at all or explode into a 
gazillion pieces (sometimes just scoring it will do that, without benefit of

running pliers............... you think a sheet of badly annealed Yough 
blowing up is spectacular??????).

I can't remember who the guy was (in Germany, I think) who created "drops"
of 
tempered glass that look like polliwogs/tadpoles (OK, sperm, but I didn't
say 
that!!!!!!!!!!!) by dropping them in a bucket of water while they were still

glowing red hot - you can take a sledge hammer to the "bodies" of the things

and they'll remain intact, but if you mess with the "tails" at all (even a 
scratch), the whole "drop" will explode into powder. (My other half, looking

over my shoulder, says, "those sound like micro-Chihulys." OK, so he's been 
hanging out with me too long..............)

I ain't goin' there - if ever I need tempered glass in a certain size/shape,

I'll go to the commercial glazier around the corner.


Sparks
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From owner-glass Tue Feb 22 11:36:59 2000
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From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: came
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 14:05:56 -0500
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Message text written by Lorley Oneyear
>Does came go bad??  I have a lot of (un stretched) came stored flat in P=
VC
pipes. Each size marked and stored separately. I started out using came a=
nd
gradually shifted over to foil. Now I'm thinking of doing a lead project
again. Is there any reason this old came can't be used ?? It looks OK.<

If the came still looks good, then use it.  I have had to work with some
very, very cruddy old, old lead came, and it's no fun, believe me.  I
have no idea how old the lead was, but it could have been stored in
its original shipping box for up to 30 years or more, in a studio which
never was cleaned.  So....needless to say....it was a bear to work with.
We ended up having to take a knife and scrape away the corroded
layer from the solder points, just to get the solder to hold.  And it
certainly was not clean enough to do something like take an
electroplate.  But...you can use it.

Christie A. Wood-IGGA Exec.Director
Art Glass Ensembles
North Wales, PA USA
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From owner-glass Tue Feb 22 11:41:08 2000
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X-Path: warmglass.com!mbwalker
From: "Brad Walker" <mbwalker@warmglass.com>
To: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie_Spitzer@stratus.com>, <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Prince Rupert's Tears
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 14:14:47 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

<<> (Prince Rupert's Tears) Chemically tempered glass.  You immerse the
object
> in a molten salt bath containing large monovalent cations and ion exchange
> the glass surface, creating immense compressive forces.

So what are "monovalent cations" and how do I "ion exchange the glass
surface"???

Brad Walker
http://www.warmglass.com

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----- Original Message -----
From: <cardella@pgi.com>
To: chip <j.ardella@worldnet.att.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 22, 2000 6:21 AM
Subject: FW:


>
>
>
> --------------- cc:Mail Forwarded ---------------
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> --------------- cc:Mail Forwarded ---------------
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>
>
>
> ______________________________ Forward Header
__________________________________
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>                janhaeger@hotmail.com, lsiqueiros@pgi.com,
>        mcarlson@foodline.com,
>                ont98z@earthlink.net, roedigerpaula@juno.com, "Stefaniak,
Ronie"
>                <Ronie.Stefaniak@marriott.com>, Sherry@CaliforniaClub.org,
>                soundman1@home.com, "Hendrickson, Suzette"
>              <Suzette.Hendrickson@marriott.com>
>        Subject: FW:
>        Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 15:22:00 -0500
>        MIME-Version: 1.0
>        X-Mailer: Internet Mail Service (5.5.2650.21)
>        Content-Type: multipart/mixed;
>             boundary="----_=_NextPart_000_01BF7CC3.64AFD498"
>
>
>        ---------------------------------
>
>
>

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	filename="Forward.txt"

---------------------------- Forwarded with Changes =
---------------------------
From: Lisa Salvato at MIHQ
Date: 2/21/00 2:01PM -0800
To: Jeanette McIlroy at LDG3_REMOTE
*To: Mimi Creedon at LDG1_REMOTE
*To: Janelle Henderson at LDG4_REMOTE
*To: "'Anthony'" <SMTP:Bigscome@aol.com> at MIHQ
*To: "'Carole Salvato'" <SMTP:csalvato@aol.com> at MIHQ
*To: Catherine E Josey at MIHQ
*To: "'Debbie W'" <SMTP:Dwillenberg@mgcicorp.com> at MIHQ
*To: Gisela Breece at MIHQ
*To: "'Mom & Dad'" <SMTP:Exnyers@webtv.net> at MIHQ
*To: "'Mushy'" <SMTP:Swiz121977@aol.com> at MIHQ
*To: "'Paul Viscomi'" <SMTP:PaulR2@aol.com> at MIHQ
*To: Robert Dolan at MIHQ
*To: "'Ronnie'" <SMTP:vsrveronica@cs.com> at MIHQ
*To: "'Valerie Raccuglia'" <SMTP:raccuv@tcwgroup.com> at MIHQ
*To: "'Vincent'" <SMTP:djbacca@aol.com> at MIHQ
Subject: FW:
-------------------------------------------------------------------------=
------


------=_NextPart_000_0051_01BF7D29.79B1F4A0--



--------------D7B3C50EEAC337F936E5627D--

----
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From owner-glass Tue Feb 22 15:52:44 2000
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From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: IGGA Press Release:UrbanGlass 3rd Annual Glass Bead Expo
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 18:35:07 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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The following press release is provided as a service to the members
of the International Guild of Glass Artists.  It is not necessarily an
endorsement.  For more information about joining IGGA, please visit
our web site at www.igga.org.

Christie A. Wood-IGGA Exec.Director
------------------------------------------

UrbanGlass presents the Third Annual Glass Bead Expo...

NYC's only glass bead show, where top glass
bead artists will be selling their work and
demonstrating their art.  Come see this exciting
craft firsthand in our studio.  And learn how to
use glass beads to make your own unique
creations with all the latest books, tools and
supplies from SoftFlex Company.  They'll have
demonstrations and plenty of good advice.
Come to UrbanGlass and start your own glass
bead collection!

March 11-12,  10 am - 6 pm
Admission: $2.00

UrbanGlass, 647 Fulton Street, Brooklyn, NY 11217 USA
Entrance at 57 Rockwell Place, phone 718-625-3685
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From owner-glass Tue Feb 22 16:56:14 2000
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From: Witchdoc3@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: Prince Rupert's Tears
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 19:23:20 EST
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In a message dated 2/22/00 2:41:42 PM, mbwalker@warmglass.com writes:

>So what are "monovalent cations" and how do I "ion exchange the glass
>surface"???

Things like sodium, potassium, et al. that form ionic salts. When the salts 
dissolve in water, the metal ions "lose" an electron and have a charge of +1 
(the other half of the salt, a chlorine atom for instance, takes up the 
"extra" electron and becomes a chloride ion with a charge of -1). Positively 
charged ions are "cations," negatively charged ones are "anions." (Both are 
pronounced as if they have a hyphen before the "ion" part.)

As for exactly how the ion exchange is done, I'll leave that to someone else 
whose knowledge of chemistry is current - I've been out of the field for over 
20 years.


Sparks
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From owner-glass Tue Feb 22 18:12:22 2000
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X-Path: teleport.com!weaver51
From: "Howard" <weaver51@teleport.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Fw: CHATROOM RUNNING STRONG!
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 17:51:08 -0800
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anyone been here and tried it yet?

Howard
----- Original Message ----- 
From: kumpf <@on-ramp.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.glass
Sent: Tuesday, February 22, 2000 12:01 PM
Subject: CHATROOM RUNNING STRONG!


>      The new official chatroom is now up and running very well.
> Yesterday a large number regulars from rec.crafts.glass newgroup stopped
> by.  Thanks to everyone here for all the great advice.  Hope to see you
> in the chatroom soon.
>   Best Luck in Glass,
> Adam Kumpf
> Chanmail@on-ramp.net
> 
> Chat at.....
>      http://glassart.1freespace.com
> 

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From owner-glass Tue Feb 22 19:03:21 2000
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X-Path: ilnk.com!andor
From: "Linda Jo Letscher" <andor@ilnk.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: CHATROOM RUNNING STRONG!
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 21:32:26 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

I went over there but the room was empty.  :-(  I guess I have that effect
on people.
Linda Jo

-----Original Message-----
From: Howard <weaver51@teleport.com>
To: glass@bungi.com <glass@bungi.com>
Date: Tuesday, February 22, 2000 9:22 PM
Subject: Fw: CHATROOM RUNNING STRONG!


>
>anyone been here and tried it yet?
>
>Howard
>----- Original Message -----
>From: kumpf <@on-ramp.net>
>Newsgroups: rec.crafts.glass
>Sent: Tuesday, February 22, 2000 12:01 PM
>Subject: CHATROOM RUNNING STRONG!
>
>
>>      The new official chatroom is now up and running very well.
>> Yesterday a large number regulars from rec.crafts.glass newgroup stopped
>> by.  Thanks to everyone here for all the great advice.  Hope to see you
>> in the chatroom soon.
>>   Best Luck in Glass,
>> Adam Kumpf
>> Chanmail@on-ramp.net
>>
>> Chat at.....
>>      http://glassart.1freespace.com
>>
>
>----
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From owner-glass Tue Feb 22 21:28:38 2000
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X-Path: ix.netcom.com!mbwalker
From: "Brad Walker" <mbwalker@ix.netcom.com>
To: "Linda Jo Letscher" <andor@ilnk.com>, <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: CHATROOM RUNNING STRONG!
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 23:15:55 -0500
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It was empty when I visited, too.

Twice.

Brad Walker

----- Original Message -----
From: Linda Jo Letscher <andor@ilnk.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 22, 2000 9:32 PM
Subject: Re: CHATROOM RUNNING STRONG!


> I went over there but the room was empty.  :-(  I guess I have that effect
> on people.
> Linda Jo
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Howard <weaver51@teleport.com>
> To: glass@bungi.com <glass@bungi.com>
> Date: Tuesday, February 22, 2000 9:22 PM
> Subject: Fw: CHATROOM RUNNING STRONG!
>
>
> >
> >anyone been here and tried it yet?
> >
> >Howard
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: kumpf <@on-ramp.net>
> >Newsgroups: rec.crafts.glass
> >Sent: Tuesday, February 22, 2000 12:01 PM
> >Subject: CHATROOM RUNNING STRONG!
> >
> >
> >>      The new official chatroom is now up and running very well.
> >> Yesterday a large number regulars from rec.crafts.glass newgroup
stopped
> >> by.  Thanks to everyone here for all the great advice.  Hope to see you
> >> in the chatroom soon.
> >>   Best Luck in Glass,
> >> Adam Kumpf
> >> Chanmail@on-ramp.net
> >>
> >> Chat at.....
> >>      http://glassart.1freespace.com
> >>
> >
> >----
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>
>
> ----
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From owner-glass Wed Feb 23 21:02:53 2000
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X-Path: thecomputer.co.uk!kay
From: "Kay Lawrence" <kay@thecomputer.co.uk>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Buying a kiln in UK
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 12:47:36 -0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

I'd like to get into working with hot glass but can't find anywhere to
attend classes.  The only solution appears to be buying my own kiln and a
book to learn by trial and error.

I've found lots of glass kilns for sale in the USA but when I make enquiries
here in the UK, the only kilns I can find are ceramic kilns with elements in
the side wall only.
How important is it to get one with elements in the lid?  Also, what type of
controller do I need?  I've been doing stained glass for about 4 years but
would now like to do fusing, slumping and fired painting on my glass.

I really don't know where to begin so I 'd be grateful for any help -
particularly if it relates to UK suppliers and power supply etc.

Many thanks
Kay


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From owner-glass Wed Feb 23 22:04:22 2000
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X-Path: pacbell.net!ezbongo2
From: rrk <ezbongo2@pacbell.net>
To: Witchdoc3@aol.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: tempered glass, was Re: glue chip
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2000 06:28:20 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@mta3.snfc21.pbi.net>>
Precedence: bulk



Witchdoc3@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 2/20/00 6:34:03 PM, ezbongo2@pacbell.net writes:
>
> >As I
> >understand it, clear tempered glass of modern composition which has no
> >'grain' is usually (but not always) the starting material.
>
> I doubt that it's tempered glass, which is specially hardened,

Hi Sparks,

You could be right.  I've read stuff (don't ask me where, don't remember) that
commercial glue chip is mostly tempered.  Thing is : who knows if the person who
wrote that knew what they were talking about?

Still ... the original point I made is valid.

Best regards ..... Bob

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From owner-glass Wed Feb 23 23:03:26 2000
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From: "Shakeel Abedi" <shakabe@pd.jaring.my>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Buying a kiln in UK
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 14:46:39 +0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Kay

There is no reason why a ceramic cannot be used for glass work. I was lead
to believe that in the begining but have since used a friend's kiln
(ceramic) and the only thing to remember is to heat up more slowly and
increase the anneal time.

I am sure Brad will be able to give a more definitive answer. Right Brad.
:-)

Shakeel

----- Original Message -----
From: "Kay Lawrence" <kay@thecomputer.co.uk>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 24, 2000 8:47 PM
Subject: Buying a kiln in UK


> I'd like to get into working with hot glass but can't find anywhere to
> attend classes.  The only solution appears to be buying my own kiln and a
> book to learn by trial and error.
>
> I've found lots of glass kilns for sale in the USA but when I make
enquiries
> here in the UK, the only kilns I can find are ceramic kilns with elements
in
> the side wall only.
> How important is it to get one with elements in the lid?  Also, what type
of
> controller do I need?  I've been doing stained glass for about 4 years but
> would now like to do fusing, slumping and fired painting on my glass.
>
> I really don't know where to begin so I 'd be grateful for any help -
> particularly if it relates to UK suppliers and power supply etc.
>
> Many thanks
> Kay
>
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>

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From owner-glass Thu Feb 24 01:33:31 2000
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From: "studio@stainedglass.co.uk" <studio@stainedglass.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Buying a kiln in UK
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 08:57:59 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

At 12:47 24/02/00 -0000, Kay wrote:
>I'd like to get into working with hot glass but can't find anywhere to
>attend classes.  The only solution appears to be buying my own kiln and a
>book to learn by trial and error.
>
>I've found lots of glass kilns for sale in the USA but when I make enquiries
>here in the UK, the only kilns I can find are ceramic kilns with elements in
>the side wall only.

If you have a budget of around 2000 pounds any stained glass supplier
(including us here in Bournemouth) can easily order you a purpose made glass
kiln with controller etc.
If you are not intending to spend that kind of money (and many people are
not until they decide they really do want to ocncentrate on kiln work) you
might do better to get a secondhand ceramic or enamelling kiln to get
started with and then do like my husband did when he started fusing glass 20
years ago and make your own.
Regards
EliZabeth in Bournemouth
http://www.stainedglass.co.uk

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From owner-glass Thu Feb 24 02:03:15 2000
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From: rrk <ezbongo2@pacbell.net>
To: Linda Jo Letscher <andor@ilnk.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: CHATROOM RUNNING STRONG!
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2000 06:23:59 -0800
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Linda Jo Letscher wrote:

> I went over there but the room was empty.

Hi Linda,

Why don't yall set a specific time slot ... and just go there everyday.

Like office hours.

Just an idea.

Later ...... Bob

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From owner-glass Thu Feb 24 06:53:19 2000
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: "Kay Lawrence" <kay@thecomputer.co.uk>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Buying a kiln in UK
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 14:10:29 -0000
Message-ID: <200002241420.e1OEKQt08076@mercury.nildram.co.uk>
Precedence: bulk

Well, Hello Kay.... and other lurking UK Bunginians...

There IS a company making glass kilns, located not far from the 
Middlesex Hospital, east-bound on the North Circular Road in 
London. If I remember correctly, they are called Kiln Craft. I went to 
see them about six months ago with a potter friend of mine (who 
wanted a ceramic kiln). You would need to budget for UK Sterling 
1200 (+VAT) for a small basic kiln with no furniture, pluse about 
another 800 (+ VAT) for the programmer, about another 300 for a 
pyrometer (+ VAT) and more for whatever the the shelves, ceramic 
spacers and initial kiln wash may cost. This is the cheapest and 
smallest glass kiln. (Delivery approx. 3 - 4 months).

However, you could do what I did...  ;-> I went to USA and with the 
help of a very dear s.g. American friend of mine (BG), I obtained a 
kiln (and got a discount by being a member of IGGA), and then 
hand-carried it back to UK. Total cost approx. USD 550!!! This 
included the shelf furniture, kiln wash and pyrometer (but not the 
programmer - working on that one now), AND excess baggage on 
the plane. 

Should you later contemplate buying a kiln for yourself, you will 
need 240V and plug it in permanently to a powerpoint equivalent to 
a cooker point

I am now holding experimental kiln workshops with and for my 
regular students. GREAT fun!! And I have continuous help, 
guidelines and advice from my friends Across The Pond.

Would you care to join us?? Where are you? Am also trying to 
organize long week-end workshops for those living further away.
Anyone in UK interested, get in touch with me off-group and we 
can talk more...
Best Regards

Elisabeth 'n Toby in UK  (after a long absence, which has its 
reasons....)

Kay wrote:
> I'd like to get into working with hot glass but can't find anywhere to
> attend classes.  The only solution appears to be buying my own kiln and a
> book to learn by trial and error.
> 
> I've found lots of glass kilns for sale in the USA but when I make enquiries
> here in the UK, the only kilns I can find are ceramic kilns with elements in
> the side wall only.
> How important is it to get one with elements in the lid?  Also, what type of
> controller do I need?  I've been doing stained glass for about 4 years but
> would now like to do fusing, slumping and fired painting on my glass.
> 
> I really don't know where to begin so I 'd be grateful for any help -
> particularly if it relates to UK suppliers and power supply etc.
> 
> Many thanks
> Kay
> 
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> 


----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
----
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From owner-glass Thu Feb 24 08:59:59 2000
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From: Witchdoc3@aol.com
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Subject: Re: Buying a kiln in UK
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 11:33:15 EST
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In a message dated 2/24/00 9:54:14 AM, toby@northlights.co.uk writes:

>There IS a company making glass kilns, located not far from the 
>Middlesex Hospital, east-bound on the North Circular Road in 
>London. [...] You would need to budget for UK Sterling 
>1200 (+VAT) for a small basic kiln with no furniture, plus [...]
>
>However, you could do what I did...  ;-> I went to USA [...] obtained a 
>kiln (and got a discount by being a member of IGGA), and then 
>hand-carried it back to UK. Total cost approx. USD 550!!! [...]

Let's see..... the pound is running about $1.60 or so (too lazy to lookup 
exchange rates at the moment)? So you're talking around $1900 plus VAT for a 
"basic box" over there - but I wonder if, during the "off season" you may be 
able to find a good enough air fare deal to fly across the pond, do a couple 
of days of the "tourist thang," pick up your kiln, and fly home.......... and 
have a few bucks left over!


Sparks
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From owner-glass Thu Feb 24 09:32:19 2000
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From: "Brad Walker" <mbwalker@ix.netcom.com>
To: "Shakeel Abedi" <shakabe@pd.jaring.my>, <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Buying a kiln in UK
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 08:59:48 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Shakeel's absolutely right.  As she says:   "just heat up more slowly."

The Gil Reynolds fusing book suggests that you should heat up about two
thirds as fast as you would in a kiln with top elements.

By the way, you should be able to find a glass kiln in Europe.  Creative
Glass in Germany --  www.creative-glass.com  -- distributes (no retail)
glass kilns by Paragon, Vitigraph, Laser, and UTERM.  Of those, Paragon is
the best known.  Kay, you might want to e-mail Creative Glass and ask them
where in the UK you can buy the kilns.  I don't know if Hetley or
Bournemouth carry kilns, but suspect they could get one for you.  I suspect
there are other glass kiln distributors in Europe, but Creative is the only
one I'm aware of.

And good luck.

Brad
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------
For information about warm glass techniques and processes
such as fusing, slumping, and kiln forming, please visit
the Warm Glass website at http://www.warmglass.com


----- Original Message -----
From: Shakeel Abedi <shakabe@pd.jaring.my>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 24, 2000 1:46 AM
Subject: Re: Buying a kiln in UK


> Kay
>
> There is no reason why a ceramic cannot be used for glass work. I was lead
> to believe that in the begining but have since used a friend's kiln
> (ceramic) and the only thing to remember is to heat up more slowly and
> increase the anneal time.
>
> I am sure Brad will be able to give a more definitive answer. Right Brad.
> :-)
>
> Shakeel
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Kay Lawrence" <kay@thecomputer.co.uk>
> To: <glass@bungi.com>
> Sent: Thursday, February 24, 2000 8:47 PM
> Subject: Buying a kiln in UK
>
>
> > I'd like to get into working with hot glass but can't find anywhere to
> > attend classes.  The only solution appears to be buying my own kiln and
a
> > book to learn by trial and error.
> >
> > I've found lots of glass kilns for sale in the USA but when I make
> enquiries
> > here in the UK, the only kilns I can find are ceramic kilns with
elements
> in
> > the side wall only.
> > How important is it to get one with elements in the lid?  Also, what
type
> of
> > controller do I need?  I've been doing stained glass for about 4 years
but
> > would now like to do fusing, slumping and fired painting on my glass.
> >
> > I really don't know where to begin so I 'd be grateful for any help -
> > particularly if it relates to UK suppliers and power supply etc.
> >
> > Many thanks
> > Kay
> >
> >
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> >
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>

----
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From owner-glass Thu Feb 24 10:34:18 2000
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From: Skip Hodge <shodge@gdi.net>
To: Witchdoc3@aol.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Buying a kiln in UK
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 12:59:32 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Witchdoc3@aol.com wrote:
> 
> In a message dated 2/24/00 9:54:14 AM, toby@northlights.co.uk writes:
> 
> >There IS a company making glass kilns, located not far from the
> >Middlesex Hospital, east-bound on the North Circular Road in
> >London. [...] You would need to budget for UK Sterling
> >1200 (+VAT) for a small basic kiln with no furniture, plus [...]
> >
> >However, you could do what I did...  ;-> I went to USA [...] obtained a
> >kiln (and got a discount by being a member of IGGA), and then
> >hand-carried it back to UK. Total cost approx. USD 550!!! [...]
> 
> Let's see..... the pound is running about $1.60 or so (too lazy to lookup
> exchange rates at the moment)? So you're talking around $1900 plus VAT for a
> "basic box" over there - but I wonder if, during the "off season" you may be
> able to find a good enough air fare deal to fly across the pond, do a couple
> of days of the "tourist thang," pick up your kiln, and fly home.......... and
> have a few bucks left over!
> 
> Sparks
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
Sounds like a great idea to me.
in Lakeland there is a company called Jen-Ken ( great kilns starting
around $350 US or so.) Then theres the Mickey thing.

Skip
Southern Exposure Stained Glass Supply, Inc
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From owner-glass Thu Feb 24 10:34:48 2000
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Buying a kiln in UK
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 17:57:31 -0000
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Precedence: bulk

Well, Sparks,.......
;->
I thought that was pretty obvious!!
Mind you, I bought a lot of other things besides....
It's amazing what one can pick up in 2 months!!
Looking forward to your next trip over here and our next "Parking 
Adventure"!!
Keep smiling!
Elisabeth 'n Toby ('n Meric too) in UK
> 
> Let's see..... the pound is running about $1.60 or so (too lazy to lookup 
> exchange rates at the moment)? So you're talking around $1900 plus VAT for a 
> "basic box" over there - but I wonder if, during the "off season" you may be 
> able to find a good enough air fare deal to fly across the pond, do a couple 
> of days of the "tourist thang," pick up your kiln, and fly home.......... and 
> have a few bucks left over!
> 
> 
> Sparks
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> 


----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
----
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From owner-glass Thu Feb 24 11:02:56 2000
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From: Gerry Phibbs <glasscutter@earthlink.net>
To: Kay Lawrence <kay@thecomputer.co.uk>
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Subject: Re: Buying a kiln in UK
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 03:56:50 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Organization: International Guild of Glass Artists, Inc
Precedence: bulk

Hi Kay,
  I'd suggest that over the course of time, you may well need a certain
amount of technical support, and possibly additional supplies for your
kiln.  For that reason, it may make far more sense, to make your kiln
purchase in the UK.  I would also suggest, that you might wish to be on
the look out for a used kiln, as there's less initial outlay, but most
ceramic kilns fire much hotter than is necessary for fused glass, and at
the higher temperatures, the kiln's elements (the electrical heating
coils) do suffer some deterioration, and most ceramics folks, replace
them on a regular basis.
  Side mounted elements, as opposed to top mounted elements as are more
typical of dedicated glass kilns, tend to create a striated heating zone
within the kiln.  This means that the top portion of the kiln may be a
good bit hotter than the bottom of the kiln.  If you are going to use
multiple kiln shelves, this would mean that any glass fused on the
bottom shelves, would fuse differently than the glass on the top shelf,
because of the temperature differential.
  Since glass fusing requires a bit better control of the heating
process, and not the depth of heat required in ceramics work, top fired
kilns tend to be shorter, and they often fire faster, because the kiln
shelf is closer to the heating elements, which distribute the heat a bit
more even across the glass and kiln shelf.
  But, this is not an ideal world, and many of us have done quite a bit
of fusing and other kiln formed glass in ceramics kilns.  You set up
your kiln shelf so that it's about 1/3rd to 1/2 of the depth of the
kiln.  This allows for a bit better heat distribution over the top
surface of the shelf, and thus the glass.
  You'll need to have a pyrometer, and set it up so that it measures the
temperature at that particular location in the kiln.  The same would
apply to any kiln controller sensor, you need to have it positioned
where the glass is going to be, at any other location, you won't have
accurate readings.
  With used ceramics kilns, you'd need to examine the interior, and try
to make sure that there are no fired glaze residues on the sides or
bottom of the kiln, since such residues can continue to contaminate the
atmosphere inside the kiln, and thus the glass.
  The up side to a ceramics kiln, is that it allows you to do some other
techniques in kiln forming glass, sagging, slumping, and even glass
casting to some extent.  These techniques can take advantage of the side
element positions, which also affords a bit more heat for such projects.

  There are numerous books on kiln formed glass, I can recommend any of
the three by Boyce Lundstrom (if you can find them!), and there are
others as well.
  Finally, keep really good notes, as you go through your firing
cycles.  Each kiln has its own particular characteristics, and only as
you develop a good set of notes on firing temperatures, ramp up times,
soaking times, cooling times, annealing times, will you be able to do
repeatable fusing or kiln working of glass.
  It's a lot of fun, and always interesting to see what happens in the
"magic" inside the kiln, so I'll encourage you to pursue this idea, as
you have the resources and time to get involved with it.
  Peace  -Gerry

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From owner-glass Thu Feb 24 11:03:10 2000
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Buying a kiln in UK
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 18:41:01 -0000
Message-ID: <200002241853.e1OIrft17967@mercury.nildram.co.uk>
Precedence: bulk

Lovely to hear from you Brad!

Your Warm Glass WEB-page is really wonderful and I am exploring 
it from beginning to end. I regret not seeing 2 particular bookk 
references on your "Resources" list, namely Albinus Elskus book 
on glass painting, as well as the British s.g. Artist (par excellence) 
Patrick Reyntiens; I would also have liked to see the book by 
Malcolm Miller about "The Mecca for All Stained Glass Pilgrims", 
namely Chartres in France.
I remember you asking me a while ago about books. If you haven't 
got the 2 European above that I listed, I will try and obtain them for 
you and send them to you for perusal. But surely, since you have 
added on painting on glass in your "WEB-Book", the Elskus book 
hopefully will find a place in your resources....... ?

Coming back to Kays' problem; 
I myself visited the web-site of "Creative Glass", used their search 
feature and got nowhere. I put in about 8-10 different combinations 
of "kiln", including "paragon" and other names and got ZILCH.
EliZabeth Law of Bournemouth Stained Glass offered HER 
knowledge and experience to Kay's dilemma. My own in-put 
crossed hers. Very roughly,  what she said, matched fairly - ish 
closely with my own experience. She is a retailer - I am not.
UK Sterling 2,000  plus almost 20 percent sales tax ..... is a lot of 
money here in the UK - basically for a box, a heap of bricks and 
some heating elements...

As Sparks pointed out, the final price for a glass kiln (BASIC!) 
would cost us in UK US Dollars 4,000 ,. Yep, I could go for a 
bucket-flight to New York for a looooong week-end, have a great 
time, buy the kiln there, hand-carry it as excess luggage on the 
plane, eat oysters,, have taxi back home and STILL have a lot of 
dollars left over.
The same kiln - if I lived in USA - would cost me less than US 
Dollars 400.
Add then please, to the equation that UK wages is much lower 
than those in USA.

The UK kiln manufacturers KNOW this. Somewhere, Someone, 
Somehow, SOMEONE is making a lot of money in importing  "off-
the-peg" glass kilns from USA to UK. UK DOES manufacture them 
- at a price. The price that Elizabeth Law in Bournemouth quotes is 
roughly right + sales tax and other costs. I have the bills for the kiln 
I bought in USA, together with the excess baggage bill from TWA 
and I have written quotes from UK manufacturers quoting for a 
virtually identical size and capacity kiln.

Old-timer Bungi-folks will recognize the "Elisabeth-spirit" of 
condemning cost differentials between USA and Europe .
The Old Viking rides again!!!!
Passionately wanting to make stained glass "affordable" to folks in 
UK and Europe. 
Take care now.
Elisabeth 'n Toby in UK



> Shakeel's absolutely right.  As she says:   "just heat up more slowly."
> 
> The Gil Reynolds fusing book suggests that you should heat up about two
> thirds as fast as you would in a kiln with top elements.
> 
> By the way, you should be able to find a glass kiln in Europe.  Creative
> Glass in Germany --  www.creative-glass.com  -- distributes (no retail)
> glass kilns by Paragon, Vitigraph, Laser, and UTERM.  Of those, Paragon is
> the best known.  Kay, you might want to e-mail Creative Glass and ask them
> where in the UK you can buy the kilns.  I don't know if Hetley or
> Bournemouth carry kilns, but suspect they could get one for you.  I suspect
> there are other glass kiln distributors in Europe, but Creative is the only
> one I'm aware of.
> 
> And good luck.
> 
> Brad
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> ------------------
> For information about warm glass techniques and processes
> such as fusing, slumping, and kiln forming, please visit
> the Warm Glass website at http://www.warmglass.com
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Shakeel Abedi <shakabe@pd.jaring.my>
> To: <glass@bungi.com>
> Sent: Thursday, February 24, 2000 1:46 AM
> Subject: Re: Buying a kiln in UK
> 
> 
> > Kay
> >
> > There is no reason why a ceramic cannot be used for glass work. I was lead
> > to believe that in the begining but have since used a friend's kiln
> > (ceramic) and the only thing to remember is to heat up more slowly and
> > increase the anneal time.
> >
> > I am sure Brad will be able to give a more definitive answer. Right Brad.
> > :-)
> >
> > Shakeel
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Kay Lawrence" <kay@thecomputer.co.uk>
> > To: <glass@bungi.com>
> > Sent: Thursday, February 24, 2000 8:47 PM
> > Subject: Buying a kiln in UK
> >
> >
> > > I'd like to get into working with hot glass but can't find anywhere to
> > > attend classes.  The only solution appears to be buying my own kiln and
> a
> > > book to learn by trial and error.
> > >
> > > I've found lots of glass kilns for sale in the USA but when I make
> > enquiries
> > > here in the UK, the only kilns I can find are ceramic kilns with
> elements
> > in
> > > the side wall only.
> > > How important is it to get one with elements in the lid?  Also, what
> type
> > of
> > > controller do I need?  I've been doing stained glass for about 4 years
> but
> > > would now like to do fusing, slumping and fired painting on my glass.
> > >
> > > I really don't know where to begin so I 'd be grateful for any help -
> > > particularly if it relates to UK suppliers and power supply etc.
> > >
> > > Many thanks
> > > Kay
> > >
> > >
> > > ----
> > > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> > >
> >
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> >
> 
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> 


----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
----
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From owner-glass Thu Feb 24 12:33:30 2000
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From: "Toby" <toby@northlights.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: RE: Buying a kiln in UK
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 19:27:52 -0000
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Yup!!
What more can I say!!
If only I had the time and no commitments!!
I'm glad you at least see the discrepancies!!
Elisabeth 'n Toby in UK


Charlie Spitzer in UK wrote:
> heck, sounds like a lucrative business to get into. what is the excess
> baggage cost for 5 kilns? tell the 5 friends to pay your expenses, and pay
> you the cost of it in the US, and just bring kilns back for them.
> 
> regards,
> charlie
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Toby [mailto:toby@northlights.co.uk]
> Sent: Thursday, February 24, 2000 11:41 AM
> To: glass@bungi.com
> Subject: Re: Buying a kiln in UK
> 
> 
> Lovely to hear from you Brad!
> 
> Your Warm Glass WEB-page is really wonderful and I am exploring 
> it from beginning to end. I regret not seeing 2 particular bookk 
> references on your "Resources" list, namely Albinus Elskus book 
> on glass painting, as well as the British s.g. Artist (par excellence) 
> Patrick Reyntiens; I would also have liked to see the book by 
> Malcolm Miller about "The Mecca for All Stained Glass Pilgrims", 
> namely Chartres in France.
> I remember you asking me a while ago about books. If you haven't 
> got the 2 European above that I listed, I will try and obtain them for 
> you and send them to you for perusal. But surely, since you have 
> added on painting on glass in your "WEB-Book", the Elskus book 
> hopefully will find a place in your resources....... ?
> 
> Coming back to Kays' problem; 
> I myself visited the web-site of "Creative Glass", used their search 
> feature and got nowhere. I put in about 8-10 different combinations 
> of "kiln", including "paragon" and other names and got ZILCH.
> EliZabeth Law of Bournemouth Stained Glass offered HER 
> knowledge and experience to Kay's dilemma. My own in-put 
> crossed hers. Very roughly,  what she said, matched fairly - ish 
> closely with my own experience. She is a retailer - I am not.
> UK Sterling 2,000  plus almost 20 percent sales tax ..... is a lot of 
> money here in the UK - basically for a box, a heap of bricks and 
> some heating elements...
> 
> As Sparks pointed out, the final price for a glass kiln (BASIC!) 
> would cost us in UK US Dollars 4,000 ,. Yep, I could go for a 
> bucket-flight to New York for a looooong week-end, have a great 
> time, buy the kiln there, hand-carry it as excess luggage on the 
> plane, eat oysters,, have taxi back home and STILL have a lot of 
> dollars left over.
> The same kiln - if I lived in USA - would cost me less than US 
> Dollars 400.
> Add then please, to the equation that UK wages is much lower 
> than those in USA.
> 
> The UK kiln manufacturers KNOW this. Somewhere, Someone, 
> Somehow, SOMEONE is making a lot of money in importing  "off-
> the-peg" glass kilns from USA to UK. UK DOES manufacture them 
> - at a price. The price that Elizabeth Law in Bournemouth quotes is 
> roughly right + sales tax and other costs. I have the bills for the kiln 
> I bought in USA, together with the excess baggage bill from TWA 
> and I have written quotes from UK manufacturers quoting for a 
> virtually identical size and capacity kiln.
> 
> Old-timer Bungi-folks will recognize the "Elisabeth-spirit" of 
> condemning cost differentials between USA and Europe .
> The Old Viking rides again!!!!
> Passionately wanting to make stained glass "affordable" to folks in 
> UK and Europe. 
> Take care now.
> Elisabeth 'n Toby in UK
> 
> 
> 
> > Shakeel's absolutely right.  As she says:   "just heat up more slowly."
> > 
> > The Gil Reynolds fusing book suggests that you should heat up about two
> > thirds as fast as you would in a kiln with top elements.
> > 
> > By the way, you should be able to find a glass kiln in Europe.  Creative
> > Glass in Germany --  www.creative-glass.com  -- distributes (no retail)
> > glass kilns by Paragon, Vitigraph, Laser, and UTERM.  Of those, Paragon is
> > the best known.  Kay, you might want to e-mail Creative Glass and ask them
> > where in the UK you can buy the kilns.  I don't know if Hetley or
> > Bournemouth carry kilns, but suspect they could get one for you.  I
> suspect
> > there are other glass kiln distributors in Europe, but Creative is the
> only
> > one I'm aware of.
> > 
> > And good luck.
> > 
> > Brad
> >
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> > ------------------
> > For information about warm glass techniques and processes
> > such as fusing, slumping, and kiln forming, please visit
> > the Warm Glass website at http://www.warmglass.com
> > 
> > 
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Shakeel Abedi <shakabe@pd.jaring.my>
> > To: <glass@bungi.com>
> > Sent: Thursday, February 24, 2000 1:46 AM
> > Subject: Re: Buying a kiln in UK
> > 
> > 
> > > Kay
> > >
> > > There is no reason why a ceramic cannot be used for glass work. I was
> lead
> > > to believe that in the begining but have since used a friend's kiln
> > > (ceramic) and the only thing to remember is to heat up more slowly and
> > > increase the anneal time.
> > >
> > > I am sure Brad will be able to give a more definitive answer. Right
> Brad.
> > > :-)
> > >
> > > Shakeel
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Kay Lawrence" <kay@thecomputer.co.uk>
> > > To: <glass@bungi.com>
> > > Sent: Thursday, February 24, 2000 8:47 PM
> > > Subject: Buying a kiln in UK
> > >
> > >
> > > > I'd like to get into working with hot glass but can't find anywhere to
> > > > attend classes.  The only solution appears to be buying my own kiln
> and
> > a
> > > > book to learn by trial and error.
> > > >
> > > > I've found lots of glass kilns for sale in the USA but when I make
> > > enquiries
> > > > here in the UK, the only kilns I can find are ceramic kilns with
> > elements
> > > in
> > > > the side wall only.
> > > > How important is it to get one with elements in the lid?  Also, what
> > type
> > > of
> > > > controller do I need?  I've been doing stained glass for about 4 years
> > but
> > > > would now like to do fusing, slumping and fired painting on my glass.
> > > >
> > > > I really don't know where to begin so I 'd be grateful for any help -
> > > > particularly if it relates to UK suppliers and power supply etc.
> > > >
> > > > Many thanks
> > > > Kay
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > ----
> > > > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > > > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > > > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> > > >
> > >
> > > ----
> > > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> > >
> > 
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> > 
> 
> 
> ----
> As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
> North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
> http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
> ----
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> 


----
As my grandmother said "...there is only nobility of mind"
North Lights Stained Glass - homepage
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/kris/northlights/index.htm 
----
----
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From owner-glass Thu Feb 24 14:16:28 2000
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From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: Kay Lawrence <kay@thecomputer.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Buying a kiln in UK
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 19:36:03 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@?>>
Precedence: bulk

Kay,
        Try Essex Kilns.  They have new and reconditioned kilns of
ceramic and glass types.  Prices start at about 300 - 500.  Programmable
controllers incorporating a pyrometer start at about 400, so if you can
get a kiln with one on it already for about 800, you have a good deal! 

 My first kiln was a French ceramic one with a variable power control.
It was a great learning curve, and has given me a knowledge of the
basics of how to control a kiln "manually".   It has proved to be a good
education, although I almost always use a controller nowadays for
convenience (I don't like late nights when I am 30 minutes by bicycle
from home).  

Looking in the Exchange and Mart website (don't know the address) will
show up a number of kilns.  Several kiln builders also recondition kilns
they have taken in part exchange.  Ring them and ask.  You can find out
about them from the electronic yellow pages under ceramic equipment and
supplies.

Looking at the ceramic press will also show up a number of kilns for
sale.  Find your local ceramic studios and ask if any of them have spare
kilns.  Same for local glass studios.

Have fun looking.  Have more fun trying things out.  Most glass studios
which offer classes are doing fusing nowadays as well as the stained
glass.

Steve

In message <1970Jan1.000.0@?>, Kay Lawrence <kay@thecomputer.co.uk>
writes
>I'd like to get into working with hot glass but can't find anywhere to
>attend classes.  The only solution appears to be buying my own kiln and a
>book to learn by trial and error.
>
>I've found lots of glass kilns for sale in the USA but when I make enquiries
>here in the UK, the only kilns I can find are ceramic kilns with elements in
>the side wall only.
>How important is it to get one with elements in the lid?  Also, what type of
>controller do I need?  I've been doing stained glass for about 4 years but
>would now like to do fusing, slumping and fired painting on my glass.
>
>I really don't know where to begin so I 'd be grateful for any help -
>particularly if it relates to UK suppliers and power supply etc.
>
>Many thanks
>Kay
>
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
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From owner-glass Thu Feb 24 16:11:33 2000
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From: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@ix.netcom.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: cutters
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 17:08:07 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Ive been having trouble with my wrists lately.  I've always used the
Toyo TC 10 pencil style cutter.  One of my good friends sent me a pistol
grip thinking it might relieve some of my pain.

I dont know how to hold it.  Do you hold your fore finger over the top? 
Or do you just grip it and go.  Feels so different to me I dont know
what to do.

Advice?
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From owner-glass Thu Feb 24 17:40:06 2000
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From: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@ix.netcom.com>
To: Howard <weaver51@teleport.com>, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: cutters
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 19:01:13 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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I appreciate the suggestions.  Ive never had any discomfort from cutting
before...but never cut *only* for seven hours a day every day before. 
Amazing how much pain it can cause. For a day or two I honestly didnt
even imagine ever wanting to cut another peice of glass.  Glad I got
over that.  By the time someone took over for me, I was fighting tears,
I just hurt so much.

Suzanne

Howard wrote:
> 
> practice on some window to see which grip you like best.....
> I for ONE will not use the pistol grip as I do not like it.......If the
> swivel head annoys you, take off the head and reverse it (screw down), that
> will stop the swiveling........
> 
> ALSO try pressing a LOT easier.....should give you more "cutting" time with
> less fatigue.
> 
> enjoy, H
> weaver51@teleport.com
> Elaine and Howard
> best lamps on the "net":
> http://www.teleport.com/~cbs/howard
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From owner-glass Thu Feb 24 21:06:48 2000
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From: "Linda Jo Letscher" <andor@ilnk.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: cutters
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 21:23:33 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Suzanne,
I am just like you, started having some wrist/hand pain, and I changed about
7 years ago to the pistol grip and I love it.  I have both cutters out when
I am cutting but after getting used to the pistol grip it works fine for me.
(It took me a little time to get used to it) I grab it thumb over and along
the side, fingers under (the same way you would grab a pot or frying pan)
and off I go.  About the only thing I noticed is I have to be careful or I
can get going, and start to lean the hand out a bit and cut on an angle, so
I just remind myself.  Good luck and I hope it relieves any pain you are
having.  Hope you are still enjoying the job, and learning a lot.
Linda Jo



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From owner-glass Thu Feb 24 21:44:01 2000
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From: Cecily and Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
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Subject: Re: Buying a kiln in U(S)
Date: Fri, 25 Feb 2000 00:25:24 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Organization: Grendel Studios
Precedence: bulk

I have been lusting for a kiln so I can some traditional painting, as
well as fusing, casting, slumping (Lord I want it all!) and thought I
was horrified at the prices here!  Ye gods and little fishes!  But Steve
mentioned an exchange/used site on the web (probably UK based).  Is
there such a thing here in the US?  Especially in the Balto Washington
area?

It has to run on  120 household current, and have a pyrometer - I'm not
about to mess with cones.  I can get the loan of a controller, but would
rather have my own, since I'll have to give the controller back sooner
or later.  If I could get a ceramic or glass used kiln with about a 17"
diameter, and the shipping wouldn't eat up any savings, I'd be most
interested in such.  I'm talking below wholesale price.

I'd much appreciate any help (on or off list).  Or maybe one of you is
about to upgrade?

I keep trying to get my hands on the good sandblasting (Dobbins?) book
and stuff on kilns with little luck, but I picked up the large
paperbound Albinus Elskus several years ago - just happened to see it in
a glass supply place and knew just enough to know it was the seminal
text - had no idea til later what a lucky purchase it was! - Cec

--
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************


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From owner-glass Thu Feb 24 22:42:28 2000
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From: Bobfuses@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: Buying a kiln in the UK
Date: Fri, 25 Feb 2000 01:16:35 EST
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In a message dated 2/24/00 2:17:43 PM Pacific Standard Time, 
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk writes:

> Try Essex Kilns.  They have new and reconditioned kilns of
>  ceramic and glass types.  Prices start at about 300 - 500.  Programmable
>  controllers incorporating a pyrometer start at about 400, so if you can
>  get a kiln with one on it already for about 800, you have a good deal! 

Very competitive pricing.

I have read all the comments on using ceramic kilns for glass work. I fully 
agree that a used ceramic kiln is a good place to start. I would NOT buy a 
new ceramic kiln for glass work unless I had compelling reason. The 
additional unused volume and time of heating cycles make them electric hogs 
compared to glass kilns.

Trying to fire more than one shelf of glass at a time simply is not practical.

I started out with a well used ceramic kiln that had a nine inch square 
firing chamber. I could fire it three times a day in a long day and learned 
on it for two years before reselling it to someone that is still using it.  
Learned a lot including that, at first, the most efficient place for the kiln 
was next to the trash can. I no longer need a trash kiln next to my kiln.

Bob in 9 2 0 2 6

Mishandling of explosives may result in death or injury and a loss of
confidence. -Army Safety Manual
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From owner-glass Thu Feb 24 22:52:46 2000
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From: Bobfuses@aol.com
To: cecnralph@home.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: Buying a kiln in U(S)
Date: Fri, 25 Feb 2000 01:13:28 EST
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In a message dated 2/24/00 9:44:41 PM Pacific Standard Time, 
cecnralph@home.com writes:

> I have been lusting for a kiln so I can some traditional painting, as
>  well as fusing, casting, slumping (Lord I want it all!) and thought I
>  was horrified at the prices here!  Ye gods and little fishes!  But Steve
>  mentioned an exchange/used site on the web (probably UK based).  Is
>  there such a thing here in the US?  Especially in the Balto Washington
>  area?

Balto, Washington, is a good place to find used ceramic kilns for less than 
half the price of a new kiln. You just have to read the local Pennysaver for 
a few weeks or place a want add. I picked up a like new ceramic kiln for half 
price.
>  
>  It has to run on  120 household current, and have a pyrometer - I'm not
>  about to mess with cones.

Kilns over about 12"s are most likely 240 volt. This is especially true for 
ceramic kilns that need the power to reach higher ceramic temperatures. Few 
ceramic kilns have pyrometers. You can easily buy one and insert it in a kiln 
peep hole.

 > I can get the loan of a controller, but would
>  rather have my own, since I'll have to give the controller back sooner
>  or later.

All controllers incorporate a pyrometer and read out. There is no need for a 
separate pyrometer.

>   If I could get a ceramic or glass used kiln with about a 17"
>  diameter, and the shipping wouldn't eat up any savings, I'd be most
>  interested in such.  I'm talking below wholesale price.

17"s is rather large for a starting kiln. You could waste a lot of glass 
while on the learning curve. Also remember that a ceramic kiln (likely about 
as high as it is wide) uses about 250% of the electricity of a ceramic kiln. 
A smaller kiln cannot do large projects but it is economical and suited to 
many projects. Firing a large kiln with a small load an expensive preposition.

Bob in 9 2 0 2 6

Mishandling of explosives may result in death or injury and a loss of
confidence. -Army Safety Manual
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From owner-glass Fri Feb 25 05:13:34 2000
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Subject: Re: cutters
Date: Fri, 25 Feb 2000 07:52:22 EST
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Suzanne,
      Also started having wrist pain, after twenty years of cutting.  Thought 
it might have been the number of hours on the computer, which was a new 
hobby.    Dr. said it was arthritis, learn to live with it and take 2 Aleve a 
day.  After much research I discovered a remedy.  It is 200mg Chondroitin 
Sulfate and 250mg Glucosamine Sulfate daily.  Available at any health or 
vitamin store. It has been a real life saver for me.   I stopped taking the 
Aleve daily.  My wrists hurt so much that I could hardly rotate enough to 
pour a cup of coffee, now I am back to normal.  It's worth a shot.  I buy my 
supply through a mail order company, found it to be much less expensive than 
the retail stores and would be glad to pass along that info should you want 
it, just e-mail me directly.  
   I have used a Toyo pencil cutter forever and did not have to switch.  I 
never liked the feel of the pistol grip.
      Luanne 
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From owner-glass Fri Feb 25 05:46:06 2000
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From: "Brad Walker" <mbwalker@ix.netcom.com>
To: "Cecily and Ralph Wood" <cecnralph@home.com>,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Buying a kiln in U(S)
Date: Fri, 25 Feb 2000 08:07:39 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Precedence: bulk

>But Steve
> mentioned an exchange/used site on the web (probably UK based).  Is
> there such a thing here in the US?  Especially in the Balto Washington
> area?

There's one in Charlotte, NC.  Not quite DC, but sometimes they can ship.

Sometimes they just sell used kilns outright, other times they have
"auctions" where the highest e-mail bidder gets the kiln.

The url is: http://www.kilndr.com/

Brad
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------
For information about warm glass techniques and processes
such as fusing, slumping, and kiln forming, please visit
the Warm Glass website at http://www.warmglass.com


----- Original Message -----
From: Cecily and Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
To: Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Friday, February 25, 2000 12:25 AM
Subject: Re: Buying a kiln in U(S)


> I have been lusting for a kiln so I can some traditional painting, as
> well as fusing, casting, slumping (Lord I want it all!) and thought I
> was horrified at the prices here!  Ye gods and little fishes!  But Steve
> mentioned an exchange/used site on the web (probably UK based).  Is
> there such a thing here in the US?  Especially in the Balto Washington
> area?
>
> It has to run on  120 household current, and have a pyrometer - I'm not
> about to mess with cones.  I can get the loan of a controller, but would
> rather have my own, since I'll have to give the controller back sooner
> or later.  If I could get a ceramic or glass used kiln with about a 17"
> diameter, and the shipping wouldn't eat up any savings, I'd be most
> interested in such.  I'm talking below wholesale price.
>
> I'd much appreciate any help (on or off list).  Or maybe one of you is
> about to upgrade?
>
> I keep trying to get my hands on the good sandblasting (Dobbins?) book
> and stuff on kilns with little luck, but I picked up the large
> paperbound Albinus Elskus several years ago - just happened to see it in
> a glass supply place and knew just enough to know it was the seminal
> text - had no idea til later what a lucky purchase it was! - Cec
>
> --
> *********************************************************************
> *  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
> *  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
> *********************************************************************
>
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>

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From owner-glass Fri Feb 25 07:13:37 2000
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From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Buying a kiln in U(S)
Date: Fri, 25 Feb 2000 09:22:13 -0500
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Message text written by Cecily and Ralph Wood
>It has to run on  120 household current, and have a pyrometer - I'm not
about to mess with cones.  I can get the loan of a controller, but would
rather have my own, since I'll have to give the controller back sooner
or later.  If I could get a ceramic or glass used kiln with about a 17"
diameter, and the shipping wouldn't eat up any savings, I'd be most
interested in such.  I'm talking below wholesale price.<

You're not going to get a kiln with a 17" diameter that runs on 120
current.
Something that large will require 240.  I have a little used ceramic kiln=

which runs on 120 current, but it is only a 9x9x6 interior.  But it works=

very well for my glass painting and enameling applications.  I don't do
any slumping work.

Christie A. Wood
Art Glass Ensembles
North Wales, PA USA
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From owner-glass Fri Feb 25 10:23:36 2000
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From: Bobfuses@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: Buying a kiln in U(S)
Date: Fri, 25 Feb 2000 13:06:18 EST
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In a message dated 2/24/00 10:53:33 PM Pacific Standard Time, 
Bobfuses@aol.com writes:

>17"s is rather large for a starting kiln. You could waste a lot of glass 
> while on the learning curve. Also remember that a ceramic kiln (likely 
about 
> as high as it is wide) uses about 250% of the electricity of a ceramic 
kiln. 
> A smaller kiln cannot do large projects but it is economical and suited to 
>  many projects. Firing a large kiln with a small load an expensive 
> preposition.

Let me revise the above.

Seventeen inches is rather large for a starting kiln. You could waste a lot 
of glass 
while on the learning curve. Also, remember that a ceramic kiln (likely about 
as high as it is wide) uses about 250% of the electricity of a smaller volume 
glass kiln.
 
A smaller kiln cannot do large projects but it is economical and suited to 
many projects. Firing a large kiln with a small load an expensive proposition.

Bob in 9 2 0 2 6

Mishandling of explosives may result in death or injury and a loss of
confidence. -Army Safety Manual
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From owner-glass Fri Feb 25 11:57:11 2000
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From: Anthony Higson <tandg.higson@sympatico.ca>
To: Leadlines@aol.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: cutters
Date: Fri, 25 Feb 2000 14:44:17 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0@l.pop50.bellglobal.com>>
Precedence: bulk

Hi,
Just a little aside about the glucosamine sulfate.  If you are a diabetic
arthritis sufferer, the glucosamine can increase your blood sugar levels,so
caution is needed .  But if it works for you without having to resort to other
more mainstream methods,more power to you!
Gillian(who is turning 46 tomorrowFeb 26 and probably qualifies as an "old
wife"lol)

Leadlines@aol.com wrote:

> Suzanne,
>       Also started having wrist pain, after twenty years of cutting.  Thought
> it might have been the number of hours on the computer, which was a new
> hobby.    Dr. said it was arthritis, learn to live with it and take 2 Aleve a
> day.  After much research I discovered a remedy.  It is 200mg Chondroitin
> Sulfate and 250mg Glucosamine Sulfate daily.  Available at any health or
> vitamin store. It has been a real life saver for me.   I stopped taking the
> Aleve daily.  My wrists hurt so much that I could hardly rotate enough to
> pour a cup of coffee, now I am back to normal.  It's worth a shot.  I buy my
> supply through a mail order company, found it to be much less expensive than
> the retail stores and would be glad to pass along that info should you want
> it, just e-mail me directly.
>    I have used a Toyo pencil cutter forever and did not have to switch.  I
> never liked the feel of the pistol grip.
>       Luanne
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

----
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From owner-glass Fri Feb 25 12:08:28 2000
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From: Skip Hodge <shodge@gdi.net>
To: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Buying a kiln in U(S)
Date: Fri, 25 Feb 2000 13:59:37 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

Christie A. Wood wrote:
> 
> Message text written by Cecily and Ralph Wood
> >It has to run on  120 household current, and have a pyrometer - I'm not
> about to mess with cones.  I can get the loan of a controller, but would
> rather have my own, since I'll have to give the controller back sooner
> or later.  If I could get a ceramic or glass used kiln with about a 17"
> diameter, and the shipping wouldn't eat up any savings, I'd be most
> interested in such.  I'm talking below wholesale price.<
> 
> You're not going to get a kiln with a 17" diameter that runs on 120
> current.
> Something that large will require 240.  I have a little used ceramic kiln=
> 
> which runs on 120 current, but it is only a 9x9x6 interior.  But it works=
> 
> very well for my glass painting and enameling applications.  I don't do
> any slumping work.
> 
> Christie A. Wood
> Art Glass Ensembles
> North Wales, PA USA
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

Correction:

I have a 17 1/2 inch kiln that runs on 110-120 the only problem is that
it takes a bit longer to heat up because it only has top elements.

Skip
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From owner-glass Fri Feb 25 14:29:27 2000
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From: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie_Spitzer@stratus.com>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Kiln in UK
Date: Fri, 25 Feb 2000 15:05:21 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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seen in rec.crafts.glass today:
-----------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.glass
Subject: Kiln for sale: U.K.
Date: Fri, 25 Feb 2000 20:53:34 -0800
Stoke-on-Trent, Staffordshire

I currently have a Cromartie "Top Loader" kiln which has just come out of
use, and has been partly reconditioned with a fibre outerlining and lid to
overcome the original Cromartie lid problem, using 3in inverted high temp
fibre. All new material.

At the moment set-up for single phase usage but can operate three phase.

10 cu ft capacity with instruments; good condition and a very competitive,
negotiable price; ideal for firing enamel on glass.

If interested for a price and viewing.
E-mail- Nick Cotton: Nicholas@nicotton.f9.co.uk
<mailto:Nicholas@nicotton.f9.co.uk>
Or return mail









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From owner-glass Fri Feb 25 14:39:37 2000
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From: Cecily and Ralph Wood <cecnralph@home.com>
To: Skip Hodge <shodge@gdi.net>, Bungi Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Subject: Re: Buying a kiln in U(S)
Date: Fri, 25 Feb 2000 16:25:17 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Organization: Grendel Studios
Precedence: bulk

And what make and model is it?  I know they make them because I know I can get
a new one at Rainbow/Glass Design in NJ.

Skip Hodge wrote:

> Christie A. Wood wrote:
> >
> > Message text written by Cecily and Ralph Wood
> > >It has to run on  120 household current, and have a pyrometer - I'm not
> > about to mess with cones.  I can get the loan of a controller, but would
> > rather have my own, since I'll have to give the controller back sooner
> > or later.  If I could get a ceramic or glass used kiln with about a 17"
> > diameter, and the shipping wouldn't eat up any savings, I'd be most
> > interested in such.  I'm talking below wholesale price.<
> >
> > You're not going to get a kiln with a 17" diameter that runs on 120
> > current.
> > Something that large will require 240.  I have a little used ceramic kiln=
> >
> > which runs on 120 current, but it is only a 9x9x6 interior.  But it works=
> >
> > very well for my glass painting and enameling applications.  I don't do
> > any slumping work.
> >
> > Christie A. Wood
> > Art Glass Ensembles
> > North Wales, PA USA
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
> Correction:
>
> I have a 17 1/2 inch kiln that runs on 110-120 the only problem is that
> it takes a bit longer to heat up because it only has top elements.
>
> Skip
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass

--
*********************************************************************
*  Cecily Taylor Cummings Wood  and/or  Ralph Bernard Wood
*  Grendel Studio (Glass, Graphics, Gardens, Genealogy)
*********************************************************************


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From owner-glass Fri Feb 25 19:28:43 2000
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From: Connie Bartel <BLUEHERON@etinternet.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: discontinued spectrum browns
Date: Fri, 25 Feb 2000 22:14:47 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Does anybody know of any distributors that are selling these or are any of
you willing to sell any or have you found a good substitute??
Numbers are 317-6s and 319-6s. -Spectrum   Connie

Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 19:42:10 -0500
From: Jerri <pigznpawz@mindspring.com>
Subject: Discontinued Specturm
To: glass@bungi.com
X-Path: mindspring.com!pigznpawz

I'm behind in my bungi messages, so I don't know if anyone's mentioned this
or not.  Today I went by my glass retailer's and found out that Spectrum is
stopping production of two of it's browns (317 and 319) because of
production problems.  I just thought some of you might like to know so that
you can grab a piece or two before it's gone.

Jerri


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From owner-glass Fri Feb 25 19:33:27 2000
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From: Connie Bartel <BLUEHERON@etinternet.net>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: cutters
Date: Fri, 25 Feb 2000 21:42:22 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Suzanne,

I used a pistol grip for many years and recently bought a Cutter's Mate Plus.
I LOVE IT!!  I have very tiny hands and am missing a thumb joint. This
tool practically cuts the glass by itself and you can do it sitting down
with ease.
I only use my pistol grip now when my cutters mate won't work because
the sheets are too big. It is spendy but well worth it!!! It has paid for
itself
in "good cuts". Perfect pressure every time. Connie

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From owner-glass Sat Feb 26 03:50:32 2000
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X-Path: ilnk.com!andor
From: "Linda Jo Letscher" <andor@ilnk.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: discontinued spectrum browns
Date: Fri, 25 Feb 2000 23:28:56 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Connie:

I heard about it a while back, but maybe they will make it again as soon as
they work out their production problem.  They have to know it is a popular
color.  Thanks for the heads up for the folks that did not hear.  There is
probably a lot of it in someones stockpile.  We will probably see it on
e-bay for $20.00 a square foot or something:-)
And there will be a bidding war.... I know someone was looking for some to
finish a project but I forget who it was.  I would call a couple of the
bigger suppliers and see if they have any.  Good luck, hope you find some.
Linda Jo

-----Original Message-----
From: Connie Bartel <BLUEHERON@etinternet.net>
To: glass@bungi.com <glass@bungi.com>
Date: Friday, February 25, 2000 10:38 PM
Subject: discontinued spectrum browns


>Does anybody know of any distributors that are selling these or are any of
>you willing to sell any or have you found a good substitute??
>Numbers are 317-6s and 319-6s. -Spectrum   Connie
>
>Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 19:42:10 -0500
>From: Jerri <pigznpawz@mindspring.com>
>Subject: Discontinued Specturm
>To: glass@bungi.com
>X-Path: mindspring.com!pigznpawz
>
>I'm behind in my bungi messages, so I don't know if anyone's mentioned this
>or not.  Today I went by my glass retailer's and found out that Spectrum is
>stopping production of two of it's browns (317 and 319) because of
>production problems.  I just thought some of you might like to know so that
>you can grab a piece or two before it's gone.
>
>Jerri
>
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


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From owner-glass Sat Feb 26 08:16:05 2000
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From: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@ix.netcom.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: thanks re cutters
Date: Sat, 26 Feb 2000 09:21:43 -0600
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Thanks for all the posts re cutters.  I had some tests yesterday at the
hospital.  The neurologist says there is no doubt it's carpal tunnel.

That is a relief to me, since the other things I was tested for were
lupus and arthritis.  All those tests were negative.

They are referring me to a hand specialist.  Mean while at work if any
one thing is hurting too much, we switch off.

Suzanne
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From owner-glass Sat Feb 26 09:02:02 2000
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From: Robert Collins <rcollins1@mindspring.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Flesh colored glass
Date: Sat, 26 Feb 2000 08:32:12 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Precedence: bulk

    Anyone have a good number for some flesh colored or tan glass?

    Bob

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From owner-glass Sat Feb 26 16:32:03 2000
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From: "Kay Lawrence" <kaylawrence@bigwig.net>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Buying a kiln in UK
Date: Sun, 27 Feb 2000 11:53:14 -0000
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A great big "thank-you" to everyone that responded to my plea for help!

I have learned so much about kilns as a result of this enquiry (particularly
the technical stuff in Gerry's post)

I've been making enquiries all over the place, now I have some idea of what
to look for - and feel so much more confident.

I'm delighted to report that I've found a kiln supplier who does new and
re-furbished ceramic kilns here in South Wales (within half an hour's
drive).  They're called Celtic Kiln Care; and are based in Newport.  They
repair kilns for most of the school and colleges in this part of the world
and now I'm just waiting until a really nice used one is available.

Another exiting discovery is that Swanea Institute of Higher Education offer
a full or part-time degree course in Architectural Glass, which covers all
aspects of kiln work, as well as stained glass techniques.(Website:
http://www.sihe.ac.uk).

Sorry if I'm rambling on about my good luck, but I've done internet searches
for months and found nothing but a few glass suppliers in the UK.  Why is it
that hot glass is so much more popular in the US than it is over here?  I
know quite a few potters but not one glass artist.  Keep up the good work
Toby.

Kay


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From owner-glass Sat Feb 26 18:03:18 2000
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Subject: Re: discontinued spectrum browns
Date: Sat, 26 Feb 00 18:09:34 
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Precedence: bulk

On Fri, 25 Feb 2000 23:28:56 -0500, Linda Jo Letscher wrote:

>>Does anybody know of any distributors that are selling these or are any of
>>you willing to sell any or have you found a good substitute??
>>Numbers are 317-6s and 319-6s. -Spectrum   Connie

I have quite a few sheets of both. I bought lots of it about 10 yrs ago.. But how I'd get 
some to you, I'm not quite sure.. where, in the world, are you? Do you need it in large 
sheets, or only in square feet?

candy

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From: "Candy" <candy@ghostman.com>
To: "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>,
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Flesh colored glass
Date: Sat, 26 Feb 00 19:36:04 
Message-ID: <200002270234.TAA15263@mantis.privatei.com>
Precedence: bulk

both Spectrum, dense opal champagne 291.61 and champagne wispy 891.81

Candy

On Sat, 26 Feb 2000 08:32:12 -0500, Robert Collins wrote:

>   Anyone have a good number for some flesh colored or tan glass?
>
>    Bob

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From owner-glass Sun Feb 27 00:30:46 2000
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From: "jazzykid" <jazzykid@tir.com>
To: "Bungi" <Glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Las Vegas Glass Expo
Date: Sun, 27 Feb 2000 02:24:34 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Dear Bungians,

A few of us are planning a dinner for Friday, March 10, 2000 in Las Vegas.
You are invited for Bungi talk, Glass talk, Laughs and of course
dinner...but we know that secondary.  LOL

So, are you going to the Expo?  Do you live around the Las Vegas area?
California area? Arizona area? Or flying in from Where ever?  Please let me
know if you are interested in coming to the dinner.   The more the merrier
..........Please contact me

Jill Medlyn
jazzykid@tir.com


Thank you

Jill

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From owner-glass Sun Feb 27 16:31:11 2000
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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From owner-glass Sun Feb 27 17:30:30 2000
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X-Path: juno.com!mschatee
From: mschatee@juno.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Resubscribe
Date: Sun, 27 Feb 2000 20:18:48 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

I made it back from Florida please put me back on the list.  By the way
my grandmothers panel made it just fine, the flight attendents were great
about storing it in the closets.  Thanks for all the great packing and
travel advice.
My grandmother went nuts when she saw it!  As I hoped she would.  Now I
have some ideas for some other projects.
It's nice to be back to Bungi!

Caren

________________________________________________________________
YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET!
Juno now offers FREE Internet Access!
Try it today - there's no risk!  For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
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From owner-glass Sun Feb 27 18:03:00 2000
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Date: Sun, 27 Feb 2000 19:36:36 -0500
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From owner-glass Sun Feb 27 18:10:31 2000
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X-Path: teleport.com!weaver51
From: "Howard" <weaver51@teleport.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: jewels
Date: Sun, 27 Feb 2000 17:57:55 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Organization: weaver51@teleport.com
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Have pretty much gotten my "act" together with the OLD bullseye jewel
inventory.

if I have neglected to get back to anyone, please e-mail me direct.

enjoy, H


weaver51@teleport.com
Elaine and Howard
best lamps on the "net":
http://www.teleport.com/~cbs/howard

----
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From owner-glass Sun Feb 27 20:14:47 2000
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X-Path: usa.com!2citrobio
From: 2citrobio@usa.com
To: glass@bungi.com
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Subject: CitroBio
Date: Sun, 27 Feb 2000 16:55 +0000
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From: 2citrobio@usa.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Date: Sun, 27 Feb 2000 11:55:07 -0500
Subject: CitroBio

February 27, 2000


Dear Food processor/distributor:

Our company, CitroBio, Inc., specializes in an all natural
germicide/fungicide that virtually eliminates microorganisms such as
Salmonella, Listeria, E-coli and Staphylococcus from all types of food a=
nd
processing surfaces, as well.

We feel anyone in the food chain will greatly benefit from the use of ou=
r
product.  CitroBio can be used in virtually every step of the food
processing chain --- from catch to table and from planting to table with
all types of food.  This broad-spectrum product has been extensively
tested* and was proven to be very effective as both germicide and
fungicide.

CitroBio in the United States is FDA/GRAS (Generally Recognized As Safe)
APPROVED.
CitroBio in Canada is APPROVED as a food additive.

Virtually every food product will benefit from CitroBio from harvest to
consumer table.

Eliminates 99.9% of microorganisms
E-coli --- Salmonella
Listeria --- Staphylococcus
Etc.

Extends Shelf Life of food products allowing the seafood to maintain its
fresh, bright appearance.
Eliminates need for the chemical usage of bi-sulfates in seafood, fish,
etc.
CitroBio is a natural parasite treatment in all seafood, animals and
humans.

Ramifications of CitroBio are comparable to none.

Also, we are presently seeking exclusive national distributors and
international licensing agreements.  CitroBio is presently licensed in t=
he
following countries:

Costa Rica              Guatemala
        United States           Nicaragua               Belize
        Australia               Honduras                El Salvador

For information on CitroBio sales, purchasing or distribution contact, D=
r.
R. H. Maguire, Toll Free in the US at 800-332-1647 or 941/359-1647.  The
fax number is 941/359-8279 (Fax) or feel free to email at
mailto:citrobio@usa.com

Sincerely,


Dr. R. H. Maguire
CEO/President

* Test results provided upon request.
----
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From owner-glass Sun Feb 27 20:34:09 2000
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X-Path: aol.com!KTswim127
From: KTswim127@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Stained Glass Project
Date: Sun, 27 Feb 2000 23:13:27 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

To whom this may concern:

    Hello, my name is Katie Erwert.  I am a high school senior and a stained 
glass beginner.  For my senior project I have chosen to learn stain glass.  
It is required that I do interviews of stained glass experts and I was hoping 
that you would be able to help me.  I would greatly appreciate it if you were 
able to take the time to answer as many of the below questions as possible or 
of which you have knowledge.  Thank you very much for your time and effort.  
Please send responses back to me via
e-mail.   

E-mail:  KTswim127@aol.com          


1.  How long have you been doing stained glass and how were you first drawn 
it?

2. Do you enjoy using lead or foil best?  What are the benefits of each?

3. Where do you get inspiration for your works?

4. Do you prefer to draw your own designs or get them out of a book?

5. What is your favorite type of project to do?  window, lamp, etc.?

6. What is the most rewarding part of your profession/hobby?

7. Do you have any helpful suggestions for a beginner just starting stained 
glass, whether they be general or specific?  

Glass
1.  What is European painted glass? 

2. How are bevels made and when did they start to be used?

3.  What are the Crown Glass Method and the Float Glass Method of making 
glass?

4. What is plating (layering glass layers)?  How is it done?

5.   Why was opalescent glass such a discovery? And what did it accomplish 
for stained glass?

6. How is glass made today?

7.  Could you please explain to me: beveling, chipping, engraving, painting, 
sandblasting and acid etching-in regard to stained glass.

 Tools
1.  How have tools changed over the years?  How was glass cut when stained 
glass was first starting to be produced?

Colors
1. How do you decide which colors to use together?  from experience/a class?  

2. What are your methods for choosing color combinations?

3. Are there traditional colors, shapes, or patterns used in stained glass?  
Do you ever use them?   Where are they be commonly used?

Use in Churches
1. Why has stained glass been traditionally been placed in churches?

2.  What spiritual significance does it serve?
 
3.  Stained Glass started in Europe, when did it start to become prevalent in 
America?  


Thank you again!


----
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From owner-glass Sun Feb 27 20:45:09 2000
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X-Path: usa.com!2citrobio
From: 2citrobio@usa.com
To: glass@daver.bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain;charset=iso-8859-1
Subject: CitroBio
Date: Sun, 27 Feb 2000 16:55 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

From: 2citrobio@usa.com
To: glass@daver.bungi.com
Date: Sun, 27 Feb 2000 11:55:09 -0500
Subject: CitroBio

February 27, 2000


Dear Food processor/distributor:

Our company, CitroBio, Inc., specializes in an all natural
germicide/fungicide that virtually eliminates microorganisms such as
Salmonella, Listeria, E-coli and Staphylococcus from all types of food a=
nd
processing surfaces, as well.

We feel anyone in the food chain will greatly benefit from the use of ou=
r
product.  CitroBio can be used in virtually every step of the food
processing chain --- from catch to table and from planting to table with
all types of food.  This broad-spectrum product has been extensively
tested* and was proven to be very effective as both germicide and
fungicide.

CitroBio in the United States is FDA/GRAS (Generally Recognized As Safe)
APPROVED.
CitroBio in Canada is APPROVED as a food additive.

Virtually every food product will benefit from CitroBio from harvest to
consumer table.

Eliminates 99.9% of microorganisms
E-coli --- Salmonella
Listeria --- Staphylococcus
Etc.

Extends Shelf Life of food products allowing the seafood to maintain its
fresh, bright appearance.
Eliminates need for the chemical usage of bi-sulfates in seafood, fish,
etc.
CitroBio is a natural parasite treatment in all seafood, animals and
humans.

Ramifications of CitroBio are comparable to none.

Also, we are presently seeking exclusive national distributors and
international licensing agreements.  CitroBio is presently licensed in t=
he
following countries:

Costa Rica              Guatemala
        United States           Nicaragua               Belize
        Australia               Honduras                El Salvador

For information on CitroBio sales, purchasing or distribution contact, D=
r.
R. H. Maguire, Toll Free in the US at 800-332-1647 or 941/359-1647.  The
fax number is 941/359-8279 (Fax) or feel free to email at
mailto:citrobio@usa.com

Sincerely,


Dr. R. H. Maguire
CEO/President

* Test results provided upon request.
----
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From owner-glass Mon Feb 28 07:32:14 2000
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	(Smail-3.2.0.94 1997-Apr-22 #107 built 2000-Feb-26)
X-Path: aol.com!Kauriee
From: Kauriee@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Flesh Colored Glass
Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2000 10:18:44 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Bob,
I am currently using a Wissmach Flesh Pink Opal which I got from Bendheim in 
New Jersey (1-800-221-7379)  They have a West coast distributor in Oakland, 
California (1-1800-9003499).  Their catalog number for it is #31P51DD.  I am 
also using a Bullseye Light Peach Cream ..again Bendheim #29003430F.  On of 
them is slightly darker than the other that I am using where a shadow would 
be...like a neck or eyelid creases etc... the combination of the two has 
worked out wonderfully for me, and I am very happy with the effect. I also go 
through Rainbow Art Glass/Studio design in New Jersey, their catalog numbers 
for the same colors are:  
Wissmach Flesh Pink Opal: W1103
Bullseye Light Peach Cream:  BU0034
Hope this helps!

Kauriee Wood



Anyone have a good number for some flesh colored or tan glass?

    Bob
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From owner-glass Mon Feb 28 08:31:54 2000
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X-Path: netaxs.com!maruca
From: maruca@netaxs.com
To: Kauriee@aol.com
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: Re: Flesh Colored Glass
Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2000 11:02:13 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

OK, now I'm hoping we can round out the picture. What shades do you
suggest I use for my cafe-au-lait colored friends? Or- here's a toughie- a
fella I used to know from Haiti who had that shining black skin with the
purply undertones. Not that I need to render him anytime soon, but it
can't hurt to be prepared.

C'mon folks, let's not leave the job half done! We have many more tones
that possum pink( ;-> ) to consider.
 

All the best,

Mary

On Mon, 28 Feb 2000 Kauriee@aol.com wrote:

> Bob,
> I am currently using a Wissmach Flesh Pink Opal which I got from Bendheim in 
> New Jersey (1-800-221-7379)  They have a West coast distributor in Oakland, 
> California (1-1800-9003499).  Their catalog number for it is #31P51DD.  I am 
> also using a Bullseye Light Peach Cream ..again Bendheim #29003430F.  On of 
> them is slightly darker than the other that I am using where a shadow would 
> be...like a neck or eyelid creases etc... the combination of the two has 
> worked out wonderfully for me, and I am very happy with the effect. I also go 
> through Rainbow Art Glass/Studio design in New Jersey, their catalog numbers 
> for the same colors are:  
> Wissmach Flesh Pink Opal: W1103
> Bullseye Light Peach Cream:  BU0034
> Hope this helps!
> 
> Kauriee Wood
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone have a good number for some flesh colored or tan glass?
> 
>     Bob
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> 

----
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From owner-glass Mon Feb 28 10:41:33 2000
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X-Path: aol.com!Kauriee
From: Kauriee@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Flesh colored glass
Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2000 12:06:06 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Touche' Mary!

I considered the other flesh colors, however, I don't have any experience 
working with glass and those flesh tones.  I knew I would get harassed for 
it!  Ha ha.

Kauriee
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From owner-glass Mon Feb 28 13:32:05 2000
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X-Path: verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk!s.richard
From: Steve Richard <s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk>
To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Sealing of sandblasted surfaces
Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2000 20:25:44 +0000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

I am told that there is a sealant that can be used on sandblasted
surfaces to keep oils and other marks from the glass.  Does anyone know
of this, what it is, and how it is applied?

Steve
-- 
Steve Richard
Verrier Art Glass Ltd
s.richard@verrier-scotland.demon.co.uk
----
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From owner-glass Mon Feb 28 15:22:34 2000
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From: "Mike Savad" <esavad@home.net>
To: <KTswim127@aol.com>,
Subject: RE: Stained Glass Project
Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2000 17:04:54 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk



Mike's Stained Glass - Tips Tricks Photos
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
9-12-99 - New Pages Added: 3 new Tips sections - Reader's Tips, Making your
own Glass Filigree, and Cutting Different types of glass. There are also a
lot of new Sky City pictures.


> -----Original Message-----
> From: KTswim127@aol.com [mailto:KTswim127@aol.com]
> Sent: Sunday, February 27, 2000 11:13 PM
> To: glass@bungi.com
> Subject: Stained Glass Project
>
>
> To whom this may concern:
>
>     Hello, my name is Katie Erwert.  I am a high school senior
> and a stained
> glass beginner.  For my senior project I have chosen to learn
> stain glass.
> It is required that I do interviews of stained glass experts and
> I was hoping
> that you would be able to help me.  I would greatly appreciate it
> if you were
> able to take the time to answer as many of the below questions as
> possible or
> of which you have knowledge.  Thank you very much for your time
> and effort.
> Please send responses back to me via
> e-mail.
>
> E-mail:  KTswim127@aol.com
>
>
> 1.  How long have you been doing stained glass and how were you
> first drawn
> it?
>

over 17 years --- was drawn by my mother to get me out of the house when i
was 9







> 2. Do you enjoy using lead or foil best?  What are the benefits of each?

i use foil only... i don't see the point in using lead.




>
> 3. Where do you get inspiration for your works?
>

out of nature, thin air, buildings, etc... i mainly doodle.


> 4. Do you prefer to draw your own designs or get them out of a book?
>

suncatchers i get from a book, mainly because they can take as long to draw
as a panel. unless i have to i'll get them from a book. everything else is
custom



> 5. What is your favorite type of project to do?  window, lamp, etc.?

boxes mainly, they're pretty, and usable.



>
> 6. What is the most rewarding part of your profession/hobby?
>
seeing the end result, and knowing that i built it.


> 7. Do you have any helpful suggestions for a beginner just
> starting stained
> glass, whether they be general or specific?

nope not really...


....alright, i guess keep practicing, be prepared for expenses, and blood...
either-or they're interchangable.




>
> Glass
> 1.  What is European painted glass?
>
> 2. How are bevels made and when did they start to be used?

bevels are made by grinding the edges down with a large flat diamond disk,
then slowly polished down with finer wheels. no idea when they started
though.


>
> 3.  What are the Crown Glass Method and the Float Glass Method of making
> glass?
>

never heard of crown... sounds english... float is wehn you let hot molten
glass float on hot tin. the back is very smooth. i think spectrum uses
float.... window glass is usually float.



> 4. What is plating (layering glass layers)?  How is it done?

tiffany used plating. it's where you stack 1-2-3-4 layers of glass on top of
the project. it will provide: shadows, depth, more colors, extra intrest.
bob oddy's site has quite a bit of plating down. i think the address is:
http://www.boboddy.com though i could be wrong.... either way it's on my
links page.


>
> 5.   Why was opalescent glass such a discovery? And what did it
> accomplish
> for stained glass?
>

not sure about the first part, but for the second--- it allows for more
freedom of artistic expression. it provides a conduit of creativeness...
whoa where that come from? basically it gives you more colors. it allows for
shading, clouds, and more realistic objects.





> 6. How is glass made today?

i'll let someone else answer this. i know it sort of, but not enough to get
an A on.


>
> 7.  Could you please explain to me: beveling, chipping,
> engraving, painting,
> sandblasting and acid etching-in regard to stained glass.
>

at the most these things can go together. they can be done apart or used
where ever. if you can get it all to go together then it's related.


>  Tools
> 1.  How have tools changed over the years?  How was glass cut
> when stained
> glass was first starting to be produced?

isn't this stuff in a book somewhere?

glass was made a long time ago... the only archaic method that i know of is:
they dipped a string in kerosene, placed it on the glass lit it on fire,
then poured cold water on it. the hot marks on the glass caused thermal
shock and it cracked there.


>
> Colors
> 1. How do you decide which colors to use together?  from
> experience/a class?
>
artistic expression... you just know.


> 2. What are your methods for choosing color combinations?
>

don't have any. as an artist and a glass smith, i know what colors are
around and can see it in my head. afterward i go through the glass and hope
the colors are there. after that i double check, and make it.


> 3. Are there traditional colors, shapes, or patterns used in
> stained glass?
> Do you ever use them?   Where are they be commonly used?

nope. a nope. and doesn't apply.

>
> Use in Churches
> 1. Why has stained glass been traditionally been placed in churches?
>
> 2.  What spiritual significance does it serve?
>
> 3.  Stained Glass started in Europe, when did it start to become
> prevalent in
> America?
>
>
> Thank you again!
>
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>


---Mike Savad


----
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From owner-glass Mon Feb 28 15:31:39 2000
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X-Path: compuserve.com!Ensembles
From: "Christie A. Wood" <Ensembles@compuserve.com>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Middle School student's request
Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2000 17:18:43 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Hi all.  I received a nicely typed request from one Jiangdi Gao, a studen=
t
at Landis Middle School in New Jersey, USA.  He/She? is interested in
learning more about blown glass for his/her art class.  Unfortunately,
they did not give an email address, so I am collecting replies on his/her=

behalf.

I'll type in their request (no editing) and if you feel like replying, ju=
st
send your
responses to me.  I'll print them out and mail them back.  Thanks.

Christie A. Wood-IGGA Exec.Director
Art Glass Ensembles
North Wales, PA USA
--------------------------
From: Jiangdi Gao, Landis Middle School, NJ USA
To: International Guild of Glass Artists

I am Jiangdi Gao a student of Landis Middle School.  I am writing to you
because in my art class is doing a art career, I picked glass blowing as
a career and I need information about the glass career, following I have
some question for you:
1. What is your saray a year as a glass blower?
2. What kind of education you need to be in this career?
3. Can you send some of the work is done there for my project?(pictures)
4. Can you sand me some of the important information about glass blowing
to me for my project?
I hope you will respond to my letter because I really need your help, tha=
nk
you.
Sinecely your,
Jiangdi Gao
----
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From owner-glass Mon Feb 28 16:26:33 2000
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X-Path: OREGON.UOREGON.EDU!soleim
From: Sherrie Soleim <soleim@OREGON.UOREGON.EDU>
To: Stained Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Eyes
Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2000 16:10:42 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Organization: oregon.uoregon.edu
Precedence: bulk

Curious how all you experienced glassers handle eyes in a panel.  I am currently working
on a panel with a carousel lion and am trying to decide how to handle his eye.  The eye is
about 1/2" by 1" in size.  My first thought is to use a black glass glob and just grind it
to fit the shape of the eye.  Do any of you have a better idea for this?

Thanks in advance.
Sherrie

--
<><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>
Sherrie L. Soleim
University of Oregon
Library Personnel Services
soleim@oregon.uoregon.edu
<><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>


----
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From owner-glass Mon Feb 28 18:00:16 2000
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X-Path: aol.com!Bobfuses
From: Bobfuses@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: (no subject)
Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2000 20:52:22 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Can't get enough glass? Need a fix? Well try this! If you do it soon you will 
have beat me there. Copied from newsgroup rec.crafts.glass.
Bob in 9 2 0 2 6
----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Subject: Scheduled CHAT SESSIONS!
From: kumpf <A HREF="mailto:chanmail@on-ramp.net">chanmail@on-ramp.net</A> 
Date: 2/28/00 5:44 PM Pacific Standard Time
Message-id: <38BB21D7.5BE2C1D2@on-ramp.net>

      I have had many people request scheduled chat sessions so that
many people can be in the chatroom at the same time.  I have put
together some times, as listed below, that I believe are reasonable for
most people to be available to chat.  Please note that all times are in
EST(Eastern Standard Time).  To always see the latest scheduled chat
sessions, just goto the chat page and scroll to the bottom.  Click the
reload button on your browser to make sure that have the most current
information.
  Hope to See you there,
Adam Kumpf
chanmail@on-ramp.net

Times for the
   <A HREF="http://glassart.1freespace.com">http://glassart.1freespace.com</A>
chatroom.....
Wed. @ 6:00 PM; all kinds of glasswork
Wed. @ 9:00 PM; all kinds of glasswork
Fri. @ 6:00 PM; all kinds of glasswork
Fri. @ 9:00 PM; all kinds of glasswork
Fri. @ 11:00 PM; all kinds of glasswork
Sat. @ 11:00 AM; early bird chat, all are welcome

Chat sessions are only being provided to enhance this newsgroup, not
take away from it.  If you are in any way offended by the nature of the
webpage, I send my deepest apologies.


----
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From owner-glass Mon Feb 28 18:31:55 2000
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From: Bobfuses@aol.com
To: soleim@oregon.uoregon.edu, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: Eyes
Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2000 21:12:08 EST
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In a message dated 2/28/00 4:29:04 PM Pacific Standard Time, 
soleim@OREGON.UOREGON.EDU writes:

> I am currently working
> on a panel with a carousel lion and am trying to decide how to handle his 
> eye.  

I have seen real carousel animals that had what looked to be colored stained 
glass faceted jewels. I would start with one that was an oval about the size 
desired and grind it to fit.


Bob in 9 2 0 2 6
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From owner-glass Mon Feb 28 19:33:53 2000
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To: glass@bungi.com
Subject: Gatewayed mail message
Date: Mon Feb 28 19:23:56 2000
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Treat yourself or loved ones to America's finest
hams or turkeys since l984. These are the best
quality and best tasting honey glazed-spiral sliced
ready to serve hams and turkey breasts available. 
Whole smoked and oven roasted turkeys also available.
We ship to all 50 states to your door. The perfect meal or gift.

To order please call  1-888-828-9424 or 1-760-436-9202
Mon-Sat 10:00a.m.-6:00p.m. --  Sun 10:00a.m.-4:00 p.m. P.S.T.

----
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From owner-glass Mon Feb 28 20:30:52 2000
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From: "Annie" <anniekg@netconnect.com.au>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Fw: Eyes
Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 14:57:32 +1100
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> Recently saw a book which mentioned the use of glass teddy bear eyes, you
> can get them in a variety of colours and the projects they were used in
> looked fantastic.  The book was the latest one from Jillian Sawyer, Dragon
> Wings and Faerie things".  Most craft shops should carry them.
>
> Cheers
> Annie
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Sherrie Soleim <soleim@OREGON.UOREGON.EDU>
> To: Stained Glass <glass@bungi.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, February 29, 2000 11:10 AM
> Subject: Eyes
>
>
> > Curious how all you experienced glassers handle eyes in a panel.  I am
> currently working
> > on a panel with a carousel lion and am trying to decide how to handle
his
> eye.  The eye is
> > about 1/2" by 1" in size.  My first thought is to use a black glass glob
> and just grind it
> > to fit the shape of the eye.  Do any of you have a better idea for this?
> >
> > Thanks in advance.
> > Sherrie
> >
> > --
> > <><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>
> > Sherrie L. Soleim
> > University of Oregon
> > Library Personnel Services
> > soleim@oregon.uoregon.edu
> > <><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>
> >
> >
> > ----
> > For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> > To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> > Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
> >
>

----
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From owner-glass Mon Feb 28 20:35:23 2000
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X-Path: home.net!esavad
From: "Mike Savad" <esavad@home.net>
To: "Sherrie Soleim" <soleim@OREGON.UOREGON.EDU>,
Subject: RE: Eyes
Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2000 23:06:04 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
Precedence: bulk

paint should work. fusing it will give a more uniform look. or drilling a
hole in the middle and somehow foil it and shove the glass in that. if i
were doing it i'd use the glass.

if it were realistic, i'd fuse it twich, the top layer being clear ----
should give it a lense effect.


---Mike Savad


Mike's Stained Glass - Tips Tricks Photos
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1141
9-12-99 - New Pages Added: 3 new Tips sections - Reader's Tips, Making your
own Glass Filigree, and Cutting Different types of glass. There are also a
lot of new Sky City pictures.


> -----Original Message-----
> From: Sherrie Soleim [mailto:soleim@OREGON.UOREGON.EDU]
> Sent: Monday, February 28, 2000 7:11 PM
> To: Stained Glass
> Subject: Eyes
>
>
> Curious how all you experienced glassers handle eyes in a panel.
> I am currently working
> on a panel with a carousel lion and am trying to decide how to
> handle his eye.  The eye is
> about 1/2" by 1" in size.  My first thought is to use a black
> glass glob and just grind it
> to fit the shape of the eye.  Do any of you have a better idea for this?
>
> Thanks in advance.
> Sherrie
>
> --
> <><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>
> Sherrie L. Soleim
> University of Oregon
> Library Personnel Services
> soleim@oregon.uoregon.edu
> <><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>
>
>
> ----
> For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
> To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
> Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


----
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From owner-glass Mon Feb 28 21:01:43 2000
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From: Tim Byrnes <tbyrnes@iconn.net>
To: Bungi <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Extra Mail
Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2000 23:30:37 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Hi to All,
How in the world does this list atract so many different kinds of junk
mail. In the past 2 days I have received mail from people trying to sell
industrial food processor to glazed hams and turkeys. I hope there is
some way of blocking out this unwanted junk. I know someone will say use
your delet key I DO. I get as much junk here as I do in my US Mail box.
Before I go, how are my friends who were looking at that ugly green POND
glass.
Peace, Tim Byrnes

--


 Live easy, but think first.

 -- anonymous


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From owner-glass Mon Feb 28 21:37:01 2000
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From: "Candy" <candy@ghostman.com>
To: "glass@bungi.com" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: Flesh Colored Glass
Date: Mon, 28 Feb 00 20:26:03 
Message-ID: <200002290324.UAA27373@mantis.privatei.com>
Precedence: bulk

Flesh, regardless of the color, is a hard one to do, anyhow.. I'd just look thru all the 
glass I have and determine what best fits.

Candy
On Mon, 28 Feb 2000 11:02:13 -0500 (EST), maruca@netaxs.com wrote:

>OK, now I'm hoping we can round out the picture. What shades do you
>suggest I use for my cafe-au-lait colored friends? Or- here's a toughie- a
>fella I used to know from Haiti who had that shining black skin with the
>purply undertones. Not that I need to render him anytime soon, but it
>can't hurt to be prepared.
>
>C'mon folks, let's not leave the job half done! We have many more tones
>that possum pink( ;-> ) to consider.
> 
>
>All the best,
>
>Mary

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From owner-glass Tue Feb 29 01:02:55 2000
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From: "jazzykid" <jazzykid@tir.com>
To: "Sherrie Soleim" <soleim@OREGON.UOREGON.EDU>,
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: Eyes
Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 02:34:54 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

You could always go to a taxidermist and they probably have a glass eye to
fit for only a couple a bucks.  I used them for a mosaic I did of a lion's
head...looks great!!!

Jill
-----Original Message-----
From: Sherrie Soleim <soleim@OREGON.UOREGON.EDU>
To: Stained Glass <glass@bungi.com>
Date: Monday, February 28, 2000 8:00 PM
Subject: Eyes


>Curious how all you experienced glassers handle eyes in a panel.  I am
currently working
>on a panel with a carousel lion and am trying to decide how to handle his
eye.  The eye is
>about 1/2" by 1" in size.  My first thought is to use a black glass glob
and just grind it
>to fit the shape of the eye.  Do any of you have a better idea for this?
>
>Thanks in advance.
>Sherrie
>
>--
><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>
>Sherrie L. Soleim
>University of Oregon
>Library Personnel Services
>soleim@oregon.uoregon.edu
><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>
>
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
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>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>

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From owner-glass Tue Feb 29 04:01:49 2000
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To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain
Subject: Re: Eyes
Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 06:35:54 -0800
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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There are some plain ole glass globs available now that have a cat's eye
quality to them.  Often times they are clear with a gold or orange center
or gold with a swirl and they look like cat's eye.  Check your local
glass shop or order some from a glass supplier.

Diane Manchester
Tiffany Styled Originals
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From owner-glass Tue Feb 29 06:31:53 2000
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From: "Linda Jo Letscher" <andor@ilnk.com>
To: <glass@bungi.com>
Subject: Re: Eyes
Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 09:11:42 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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I have a friend that is starting to do a lot of teddy bears and she is using
what her mother told me was human eyes.  That is what she said.  The bear I
saw  looked really  good and I presume that they are really not human but
maybe glass eyes made for the teddy bear trade, but were fired, had an iris.
Linda Jo
-----Original Message-----
From: Diane W Manchester <tifstyorig@juno.com>
To: glass@bungi.com <glass@bungi.com>
Date: Tuesday, February 29, 2000 7:10 AM
Subject: Re: Eyes


>There are some plain ole glass globs available now that have a cat's eye
>quality to them.  Often times they are clear with a gold or orange center
>or gold with a swirl and they look like cat's eye.  Check your local
>glass shop or order some from a glass supplier.
>
>Diane Manchester
>Tiffany Styled Originals
>________________________________________________________________
>YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET!
>Juno now offers FREE Internet Access!
>Try it today - there's no risk!  For your FREE software, visit:
>http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
>----
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>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


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From owner-glass Tue Feb 29 06:51:12 2000
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From: "Linda Jo Letscher" <andor@ilnk.com>
To: "Bungi" <Glass@bungi.com>
Subject: copper restrip or any reinforcement
Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 09:25:55 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Reinforcemnt in copper foil, copper restrip that you put between the pieces
before soldering is what I am talking about here.

I happened to be over at a friends when she was finishing up a large window
that she was reinforcing amd getting ready to solder and she wanted to to
take and look and tell her where I would put the reinforcement.

Well...............

She had been to a studio of an old fellow that told her that there was no
need to run the reinforcemnt all the way across or vertically in one piece.
He told her to cut 2 inch pieces and just slip them in the intersections
across the piece, that there was no need to waste the stuff.  Well I was
speechless.  I mentioned I would but it all the way across and she said
"naw"............. so I watched as she cut these little pieces and just
randomly slipped them in here and there.

I always thought that when reinforcing we ran it all the way across or up
and down.  I thought I would throw this out for discussion as I personally
can't see how using just small pieces at the intersections would add that
much strenght.

This person has only been doing glass for about 8 months, I taught her, but
once on her own she has taken on some rather odd ways of doing stuff, but I
do keep my mouth shut as we all do things differently, but I hate to see her
spending the time to reinforce if the way she is doing if is useless.  And
that in a while her big window that is hanging is going to start to sag.

I need some ammo here guys to take over and explain to her why we would run
the retrip all the way across.

Linda Jo


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From owner-glass Tue Feb 29 07:01:44 2000
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From: Skip Hodge <shodge@gdi.net>
To: Sherrie Soleim <soleim@OREGON.UOREGON.EDU>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: Eyes
Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 09:45:22 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Sherrie Soleim wrote:
> 
> Curious how all you experienced glassers handle eyes in a panel.  I am currently working
> on a panel with a carousel lion and am trying to decide how to handle his eye.  The eye is
> about 1/2" by 1" in size.  My first thought is to use a black glass glob and just grind it
> to fit the shape of the eye.  Do any of you have a better idea for this?
> 

OK here is my 2 cents worth.

Get a glass nugget ( the kind that only cost a few pennies )
Take it to your grinder and hollow out the center from the back side but
be sure you don't go all the way through. Now get some BLACK paint and
paint the hollow you made with your small grinder bit. Let it dry and
...  Wahooo looks just like an Eye. I have used this a few times for
several different animal eyes and I think it works pretty good.

Good Luck

Skip
Southern Exposure Stained Glass Supply, Inc.
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From owner-glass Tue Feb 29 07:23:47 2000
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X-Path: gjr
From: gjr@bungi.com (Glenna Rand)
To: "Linda Jo Letscher" <andor@ilnk.com>, glass
Subject: Re: copper restrip or any reinforcement
Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 07:11:30 PST
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[In the message entitled "copper restrip or any reinforcement" on Feb 29,  9:25, "Linda Jo Letscher" writes:]
> Reinforcemnt in copper foil, copper restrip that you put between the pieces

> across the piece, that there was no need to waste the stuff.  Well I was
> speechless.  I mentioned I would but it all the way across and she said
> "naw"............. so I watched as she cut these little pieces and just
> randomly slipped them in here and there.
> 
> I always thought that when reinforcing we ran it all the way across or up
> and down.  I thought I would throw this out for discussion as I personally
> can't see how using just small pieces at the intersections would add that
> much strenght.

Copper restrip or any reinforcement should definately run all the way
across the panel.  Little piece are not going to do anything!


-- 
Glenna Rand
gjr@bungi.com
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From owner-glass Tue Feb 29 08:27:19 2000
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From: Witchdoc3@aol.com
To: Ensembles@compuserve.com, glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: Middle School student's request
Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 11:10:08 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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In a message dated 2/28/00 6:32:26 PM, Ensembles@compuserve.com writes:

>Hi all.  I received a nicely typed request from one Jiangdi Gao, a student
>at Landis Middle School in New Jersey, USA.  He/She? is interested in
>learning more about blown glass for his/her art class.  Unfortunately,
>they did not give an email address, so I am collecting replies on his/her
>behalf.

Where is Landis Middle School located? I wonder if it would be convenient (or 
even possible) for him/her and family to spend a day at Wheaton Village 
(Millville).


Sparks
    lusting to go there myself
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From owner-glass Tue Feb 29 08:57:54 2000
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X-Path: villagesoftsmith.com!steve
From: Steve Wernecke <steve@villagesoftsmith.com>
To: "Linda Jo Letscher" <andor@ilnk.com>, "Bungi" <Glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Re: copper restrip or any reinforcement
Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 08:48:43 -0800
Message-ID: <3.0.3.32.20000229084843.009bcc40@mail.villagesoftsmith.com>
References: <<1970Jan1.000.0>>
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LJ,

I can't speak with authority, but I'm in agreement with your intuition.
Everything I've ever read has said reinforcement should span the work.

Ask your friend to consider how her scheme would work on a panel that is
somewhat like a venetian blind...lots of horizontal seams and relatively
few vertical ones.  I think she'd agree that in the absence of
reinforcement that panel would have a strong tendency to fold up along the
horizontals.   So now imagine that she uses her reinforcement procedure on
every other intersection.   All she's done is to discourage the panel from
folding along the strengthened lines...the remaining half are still weak.

This is an admittedly contrived example, but I think the same principle
applies on a more complicated piece.  The stresses will "find" the
remaining weaknesses.   

It would be nice if her scheme worked...it would save us all that trouble
of planning for that pesky reinforcement during design.

Steve

At 09:25 AM 2/29/00 -0500, Linda Jo Letscher wrote:
>Reinforcemnt in copper foil, copper restrip that you put between the pieces
>before soldering is what I am talking about here.
>
>I happened to be over at a friends when she was finishing up a large window
>that she was reinforcing amd getting ready to solder and she wanted to to
>take and look and tell her where I would put the reinforcement.
>
>Well...............
>
>She had been to a studio of an old fellow that told her that there was no
>need to run the reinforcemnt all the way across or vertically in one piece.
>He told her to cut 2 inch pieces and just slip them in the intersections
>across the piece, that there was no need to waste the stuff.  Well I was
>speechless.  I mentioned I would but it all the way across and she said
>"naw"............. so I watched as she cut these little pieces and just
>randomly slipped them in here and there.
>
>I always thought that when reinforcing we ran it all the way across or up
>and down.  I thought I would throw this out for discussion as I personally
>can't see how using just small pieces at the intersections would add that
>much strenght.
>
>This person has only been doing glass for about 8 months, I taught her, but
>once on her own she has taken on some rather odd ways of doing stuff, but I
>do keep my mouth shut as we all do things differently, but I hate to see her
>spending the time to reinforce if the way she is doing if is useless.  And
>that in a while her big window that is hanging is going to start to sag.
>
>I need some ammo here guys to take over and explain to her why we would run
>the retrip all the way across.
>
>Linda Jo
>
>
>----
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>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>
>
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From owner-glass Tue Feb 29 09:01:40 2000
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From: Skip Hodge <shodge@gdi.net>
To: Linda Jo Letscher <andor@ilnk.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: Re: copper restrip or any reinforcement
Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 11:54:49 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Linda Jo Letscher wrote:
> 
> Reinforcemnt in copper foil, copper restrip that you put between the pieces
> before soldering is what I am talking about here.
> 


Hi Linda

Generally speaking when I use Copper Restrip I try to work it in, in a
big X accross the entire piece. What this does for me is to change the
main support from a rectangle into 4 individual triangles. A triangle is
much stronger that a rectangle because it has fewer sides to support and
the corners have sharper angles. I haven't tried using this bits and
pieces method but it sounds a bit risky to me. Let me know what happens

Skip
Southern Exposure Stained Glass Supply, Inc.
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From owner-glass Tue Feb 29 09:28:18 2000
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From: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie_Spitzer@stratus.com>
To: "'glass@bungi.com'" <glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: FW: copper restrip or any reinforcement
Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 10:12:56 -0700
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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well, look at a seam. what you're trying to do is prevent a bend on the
seam, which is what flex is. if you can reinforce a set of places across the
entire panel in every place that can bend, it's at every intersection. doing
this moves the bending moment from the seam to the middle of the piece of
glass, which will resist bending more than the seam will.

the pieces of restrip in places where there is no seam, technically, adds
very little strength to resist the bending at the seams.

regards,
charlie
phx az
-----Original Message-----
From: Linda Jo Letscher [mailto:andor@ilnk.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, February 29, 2000 7:26 AM
To: Bungi
Subject: copper restrip or any reinforcement


Reinforcemnt in copper foil, copper restrip that you put between the pieces
before soldering is what I am talking about here.

I happened to be over at a friends when she was finishing up a large window
that she was reinforcing amd getting ready to solder and she wanted to to
take and look and tell her where I would put the reinforcement.

Well...............

She had been to a studio of an old fellow that told her that there was no
need to run the reinforcemnt all the way across or vertically in one piece.
He told her to cut 2 inch pieces and just slip them in the intersections
across the piece, that there was no need to waste the stuff.  Well I was
speechless.  I mentioned I would but it all the way across and she said
"naw"............. so I watched as she cut these little pieces and just
randomly slipped them in here and there.

I always thought that when reinforcing we ran it all the way across or up
and down.  I thought I would throw this out for discussion as I personally
can't see how using just small pieces at the intersections would add that
much strenght.

This person has only been doing glass for about 8 months, I taught her, but
once on her own she has taken on some rather odd ways of doing stuff, but I
do keep my mouth shut as we all do things differently, but I hate to see her
spending the time to reinforce if the way she is doing if is useless.  And
that in a while her big window that is hanging is going to start to sag.

I need some ammo here guys to take over and explain to her why we would run
the retrip all the way across.

Linda Jo


----
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From owner-glass Tue Feb 29 10:00:38 2000
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From: GlassLites@aol.com
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Subject: Re: copper restrip or any reinforcement
Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 12:49:25 EST
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Reinforcement pieces vs. a full length strip...

Since I've got a degree in engineering and work with "beams" every day, I guess it's my turn to speak up.

Pieces won't do a thing for the strength. At the end of each piece is a weak point.

The strip should go the entire length of the area you want to reinforce and should be attached as frequently as possible. Obviously, with a strip soldered into the joint, that connection is over 100% of the length, and that's a good thing.

Cheryl Lowe
Glass Lites Studio
GlassLites@aol.com
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From owner-glass Tue Feb 29 12:31:53 2000
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X-Path: ilnk.com!andor
From: "Linda Jo Letscher" <andor@ilnk.com>
To: "Spitzer, Charlie" <Charlie_Spitzer@stratus.com>,
Subject: Re: copper restrip or any reinforcement
Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 15:08:42 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
Precedence: bulk

Charlie,
Good point, but if it transfers the pressure from the + (where the restrip
is) to a place in the middle of the piece then would we look for stress
fracture in that area.  We are talking windows 5 or 6 square feet in them.
Is the restrip just for the bending at the seams + or all the way across and
up and down, to keep the upper load off the lower pieces?  This is neat I am
learning something here.  Thanks!
Linda Jo
-----Original Message-----
From: Spitzer, Charlie <Charlie_Spitzer@stratus.com>
To: 'glass@bungi.com' <glass@bungi.com>
Date: Tuesday, February 29, 2000 12:43 PM
Subject: FW: copper restrip or any reinforcement


>well, look at a seam. what you're trying to do is prevent a bend on the
>seam, which is what flex is. if you can reinforce a set of places across
the
>entire panel in every place that can bend, it's at every intersection.
doing
>this moves the bending moment from the seam to the middle of the piece of
>glass, which will resist bending more than the seam will.
>
>the pieces of restrip in places where there is no seam, technically, adds
>very little strength to resist the bending at the seams.
>
>regards,
>charlie
>phx az
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Linda Jo Letscher [mailto:andor@ilnk.com]
>Sent: Tuesday, February 29, 2000 7:26 AM
>To: Bungi
>Subject: copper restrip or any reinforcement
>
>
>Reinforcemnt in copper foil, copper restrip that you put between the pieces
>before soldering is what I am talking about here.
>
>I happened to be over at a friends when she was finishing up a large window
>that she was reinforcing amd getting ready to solder and she wanted to to
>take and look and tell her where I would put the reinforcement.
>
>Well...............
>
>She had been to a studio of an old fellow that told her that there was no
>need to run the reinforcemnt all the way across or vertically in one piece.
>He told her to cut 2 inch pieces and just slip them in the intersections
>across the piece, that there was no need to waste the stuff.  Well I was
>speechless.  I mentioned I would but it all the way across and she said
>"naw"............. so I watched as she cut these little pieces and just
>randomly slipped them in here and there.
>
>I always thought that when reinforcing we ran it all the way across or up
>and down.  I thought I would throw this out for discussion as I personally
>can't see how using just small pieces at the intersections would add that
>much strenght.
>
>This person has only been doing glass for about 8 months, I taught her, but
>once on her own she has taken on some rather odd ways of doing stuff, but I
>do keep my mouth shut as we all do things differently, but I hate to see
her
>spending the time to reinforce if the way she is doing if is useless.  And
>that in a while her big window that is hanging is going to start to sag.
>
>I need some ammo here guys to take over and explain to her why we would run
>the retrip all the way across.
>
>Linda Jo
>
>
>----
>For subscription changes, please mail to: glass-request@bungi.com
>To send to the list,      please mail to: glass@bungi.com
>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass
>----
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>Archives available at http://www.bungi.com/glass


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From owner-glass Tue Feb 29 15:02:08 2000
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From: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@ix.netcom.com>
To: glass@bungi.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Subject: copper restrip and reinforcement
Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 16:56:54 -0600
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Re the above subject...

Reinforcement is the least of my experience.  I have lots to learn...and
find very little written on the subject.

Just thought I'd mention...

A repair job was brought into the shop the other day...
I didnt hear the story of how it came to be damaged, but the panel came
apart everywhere that restrip was used.  I dont know if they used it
wrong or what...

Suzanne
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From owner-glass Tue Feb 29 15:11:58 2000
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From: "Carol DeLong" <crystalangl@earthlink.net>
To: "Linda Jo Letscher" <andor@ilnk.com>, "Bungi" <Glass@bungi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Subject: Re: copper restrip or any reinforcement
Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 14:22:59 -0500
Message-ID: <1970Jan1.000.0>
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Precedence: bulk

I agree with all the other replies.  I am new to Stained Glass (one year
learning basics and one year on my own).  I have read everything I could get
my hands on and all the books and Professionals have said to reiforce the
whole line.  "Pieces" are just extra effort with little or no support.
Carol D.
----- Original Message -----
From: Linda Jo Letscher <andor@ilnk.com>
To: Bungi <Glass@bungi.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 29, 2000 9:25 AM
Subject: copper restrip or any reinforcement


> Reinforcemnt in copper foil, copper restrip that you put between the
pieces
> before soldering is what I am talking about here.
>
> I happened to be over at a friends when she was finishing up a large
window
> that she was reinforcing amd getting ready to solder and she wanted to to
> take and look and tell her where I would put the reinforcement.
>
> Well...............
>
> She had been to a studio of an old fellow that told her that there was no
> need to run the reinforcemnt all the way across or vertically in one
piece.
> He told her to cut 2 inch pieces and just slip them in the intersections
> across the piece, that there was no need to waste the stuff.  Well I was
> speechless.  I mentioned I would but it all the way across and she said
> "naw"............. so I watched as she cut these little pieces and just
> randomly slipped them in here and there.
>
> I always thought that when reinforcing we ran it all the way across or up
> and down.  I thought I would throw this out for discussion as I personally
> can't see how using just small pieces at the intersections would add that
> much strenght.
>
> This person has only been doing glass for about 8 months, I taught her,
but
> once on her own she has taken on some rather odd ways of doing stuff, but
I
> do keep my mouth shut as we all do things differently, but I hate to see
her
> spending the time to reinforce if the way she is doing if is useless.  And
> that in a while her big window that is hanging is going to start to sag.
>
> I need some ammo here guys to take over and explain to her why we would
run
> the retrip all the way across.
>
> Linda Jo
>
>
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From owner-glass Tue Feb 29 16:04:43 2000
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From: Sherrie Soleim <soleim@OREGON.UOREGON.EDU>
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Wow!  What a response!  Thank you all so much.  So many ideas!  I'll let you know what I find
and what I decide to use on my lion.  I'm learning so much my just lurking here.  You are a
great bunch of people.

Sherrie
--
<><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>
Sherrie L. Soleim
University of Oregon
Library Personnel Services
soleim@oregon.uoregon.edu
<><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>


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From owner-glass Tue Feb 29 16:10:33 2000
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From: AbbieN2Glass@aol.com
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Subject: Re:Grinder bits....
Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 19:03:56 EST
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Hi group, I need to get a nice edge on glass pieces that will not be 
soldered....Is there a special bit or something I can do to accomplish this/ 
My ground edges are great for foiling etc. but not for leaving "exposed" ,so 
to say! thanks, Abbie in Va
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From owner-glass Tue Feb 29 19:02:31 2000
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From: Suzanne Gunn <gunnx4@ix.netcom.com>
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Subject: restrip vs. rebar
Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 18:45:44 -0600
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I really dont understand how restrip strengthens a panel.
Does it *really* add strength?  

I think it makes sense that rebar would be the best reinforcement, but
could obviously interfere with your design.  At work, Ive been amazed
how we've been able to make
the rebar virtually disappear with patina. 

I guess I have a hard time trusting the restrip.

Comments anyone?  

Suzanne
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